Ex Libris 
 ISAAC FOOT 
 
 I
 
 A PASTOR'S MEMORIAL 
 
 THE HOLY LAND, ETC. 


 
 A 
 
 PASTOR'S MEMORIAL 
 
 __ 
 
 OF 
 
 EGYPT, THE RED SEA, THE WILDERNESSES OF SIN AND PAR1N, 
 MOUNT SINAI, 
 
 JERUSALEM, 
 
 AND 
 
 OTHER PRINCIPAL LOCALITIES 
 
 OF THE 
 
 HOLY LAND, 
 
 VISITED IN 1842; 
 
 WITH BRIEF NOTES OF A ROUTE THROUGH FRANCE, ROME, 
 NAPLES, CONSTANTINOPLE, AND UP THE DANUBE. 
 
 BY THE 
 
 REV. GEORGE FISK, LL.B. 
 
 W 
 
 PREBENDARY OF LICHFIELD ; 
 
 AND MINISTER OF CHRIST CHAPEL, SAINT JOHN'S WOOD, 
 LONDON. 
 
 SEDUfon. 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 SEELEY, BURNSIDE, AND SEELEY, FLEET-STREET; 
 
 T. SIMPSON, WOLVERHAMPTON, 
 
 1845.
 
 DS107 
 
 ~
 
 TO THE REVEREND HAY M. ERSKINE, M.A., 
 
 MY DEAR FRIEND, 
 
 WITH every scene and event recorded on the following 
 pages, you have been, and always will be, associated. 
 
 A friendship, now of some years' standing, commenced 
 between us as yoke-fellows in the gospel, has been doubly 
 cemented by a participation of toil, danger, and delight in 
 the land of scripture -history. The assurance of this has 
 mingled many a happy feeling with the labours of authorship ; 
 and I cannot now forego the gratification of inscribing my 
 faint sketch of our pilgrimage to you. 
 
 We have wandered as aliens amidst the desolations of the 
 earthly Canaan may it be ours to sit down eternally as 
 citizens in the glories of the heavenly Jerusalem. 
 
 Believe me, my dear Friend, 
 
 Ever affectionately your's, 
 
 THE AUTHOR. 
 
 WALSALL VICARAGE, 
 
 September, 1843.
 
 I THINK it right to avow, what the intelligent reader 
 will, however, soon discover for himself, that as a 
 literary production, this book is of small pretension. 
 It is a sketch, and nothing more just what its title 
 indicates ; and primarily intended to give my flock 
 some instructive idea of the way in which the interval 
 of my absence from them was spent. As a Pastor's 
 familiar narrative, it contains many particulars in which 
 the public cannot be expected to sympathize as those 
 will who are so personally related to me. 
 
 My journey occupied something less than eight 
 months a space of time affording but little oppor- 
 tunity for adding to those stores of information 
 already extant the production of gifted authors, who 
 taken altogether, may be said to have nearly exhausted 
 most of the topics on which I have briefly touched in 
 passing. 
 
 I had intended to intersperse my narrative with 
 certain views of prophecy, which from time to time 
 have presented themselves to my mind, in a way not 
 as yet fully wrought out ; and to add more extensive
 
 Vlll 
 
 particulars of the state and prospects of Israel, as 
 connected with those of the Ottoman empire : but I 
 have been obliged to forbear, in the hope of turning my 
 attention to them hereafter ; for my great difficulty has 
 been to narrow my subject, without really contracting 
 it; and yet to expand sufficiently without making 
 it too diffuse. To be adequately treated, it would 
 demand volumes. I do, however, indulge the hope, 
 that those for whom this sketch has been more 
 especially made, will not rise from the perusal with 
 regret that they ever requested me to write. 
 
 I may perhaps be permitted to add, that my materials 
 were hastily noted down from day to day, amidst 
 the wearisomeness of travel ; and, for the most part, 
 under the influence of a trying climate ; and that this 
 Memorial has been drawn up, not in literary ease and 
 leisure, but amidst those incessant and higher demands 
 upon my time which are inseparable from the spiritual 
 oversight of a large manufacturing population. 
 
 They who know me, and respect my motive in 
 publishing, will look indulgently upon all the defec- 
 tiveness in execution which they cannot fail to notice, 
 and of which none can be more sensible than myself. 
 I say not this to forestal criticism, but only to 
 bespeak kindliness towards an effort for the gratifica- 
 tion and instruction of others, in which, circumstanced 
 as I am, I have done what I could.
 
 PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION. 
 
 THOUGH fully aware of the growing interest which is taken in 
 all that concerns God's ancient people and the land of their 
 inheritance the birth-place and cradle of Christianity, yet I 
 was not prepared to expect that within little more than eight 
 months the first two thousand copies of so unpretending a 
 volume as this would be exhausted. Such, however, being 
 the case, I issue a second large impression with thankfulness 
 and hope. I have done but little beyond correcting such errors 
 as were incidental to the rapid composition and publication 
 of the first. 
 
 The gratifying reception with which this volume has been 
 honoured, encourages my desire to produce a supplementary 
 one, in which I might endeavour to work out the argument 
 for a literal fulfilment of prophecy, based upon a view of the 
 physical condition of the Holy Land, and the history and 
 present state of the Jewish people ; but the pastoral oversight 
 of a densely-populated manufacturing parish forbids that
 
 continuity of research and application which an early accom- 
 plishment of such an undertaking would demand. I can 
 therefore prosecute it only in those moments of leisure, which 
 are "few and far between;" and though I may hope 
 somewhat, I cannot under present circumstances promise 
 much, however unwilling to relinquish the object of my 
 desire. 
 
 WALSALL VICARAGE, 
 
 JULY, 1844.
 
 PREFACE TO THE THIRD EDITION. 
 
 THE kind reception which the two previous editions of the 
 "PASTOR'S MEMORIAL" have met with, induces me to add a 
 third, in the humble hope that I have neither travelled nor 
 written in vain. The present edition is an exact reprint 
 of the former ones. 
 
 My altered position will, I trust, favour my avowed desire 
 to take up the subject of "THE LITERAL FULFILMENT OF 
 PROPHECY;" and the encouragement bestowed on the present 
 work, gives me the earnest of a cordial reception of future 
 efforts. 
 
 ST. JOHN'S WOOD, LONDON, 
 
 OCTOBER, 1845.
 
 INDEX TO CHAPTERS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 PAGE 
 EUROPEAN ROUTE OUTWARD .... 1 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 EGYPT 65 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE ARABIAN DESERT; FROM CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI.. . .... 113 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE DESERT; FROM MOUNT SINAI TO AKABAH 161 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE DESERT ; FROM AKABAH TO DHAHERIYEH 193 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PALESTINE; FROM DHAHERIYEH TO JERUSALEM
 
 XIV 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 PAGE 
 JERUSALEM .... 243 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE DEAD SEA, JORDAN, ETC. 295 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 JERUSALEM, SYCHAR, NAZARETH, ETC. 329 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO AND CONSTANTINOPLE .... 403 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 HOMEWARD 437 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FINAL .... .... 455
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 EUROPEAN ROUTE OUTWARD, ETC.
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 EUROPEAN ROUTE-OUTWARD. 
 
 MOTIVES, ETC. FRANCE BOULOGNE ROMISH PREACHING CAVIGLIA FRENCH 
 DILIGENCE LYONS ROMISH SUPERSTITIONS THE RHONE AVIGNON 
 
 NISMES GENOA CIVITA-VECCHIA ROME DOGANA ST. PETER* S 
 
 PANTHEON ANCIENT ROME ROME : " HOLY WEEK " THE POPE PAPAL 
 
 BENEDICTION ITALIAN CHARACTER AND HABIT ALBANO VELLETRI 
 
 PONTINE MARSHES TERRACINA APPIAN WAY FONDI MOLA TOMB OF 
 
 CICERO ST. AGATHA CAPUA NAPLES MONTE POSILIPO VIRGIL'S 
 
 TOMB PUZZUOLI BAI^E ANCIENT REMAINS CARMELITE MONASTERY 
 
 ST. JANUARIUS NAPLES POPERY PURGATORY POMPEII ASCENT OF 
 
 VESUVIUS VESUVIUS PROCESSION OF THE "HOST" SICILY SCYLLA 
 
 AND CHARYBDIS RHEGIUM SYRACUSE MALTA SEA-STORM ZANTE 
 
 MELITA MALTA SYRA CRETE MAHOMMEDAN DEVOTIONS FIRST VIEW 
 
 OF ALEXANDRIA ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 WHEN preparing this narrative, principally for the perusal 
 of the members of a beloved flock at whose request it was 
 undertaken, I felt that, in order to give a view of the 
 manner in which the period of my absence from them was 
 passed, I must introduce many a scene and topic already 
 familiar to those whose reading has lain in the way of 
 voyages and travels. I do not expect to add much to the 
 impressions made on the public mind by travellers more 
 extensive, and authors more gifted than myself; but I just 
 entertain the hope, that many, who have not had much 
 opportunity for perusing what has been already written upon 
 the scenes of my pilgrimage, may participate the deep interest 
 I have felt, and share the instruction I have derived from a visit 
 to the most intensely interesting localities in the world ; and
 
 2 MOTIVES, ETC. 
 
 certainly, when I left the shores of my native land, with 
 broken health and unfitness for the toils of parochial duty, it 
 was under the persuasion that I was not about to travel for 
 my own selfish gratification, but with an extended motive 
 and I think a high one too, comprehending in it a desire to 
 benefit my flock as well as myself. 
 
 It is not an easy matter to depict the state of mind with 
 which I prepared for an undertaking that looked so much 
 like enterprise, to one, whose life had been spent within 
 the narrow ocean-girdle of Britain, and much of it in the 
 comparatively retired occupations of a Christian Pastor. 
 Difficulties I knew were to be met, and dangers, perhaps, to 
 be encountered, from the very nature of the countries and 
 climates through which I proposed to travel, which might be 
 trying and distressing to one, whose past connexion with 
 home and the scenes and employments of home had been the 
 source of comfort and delight ; but still, a great point was to 
 be gained; and scenes which had become endeared and sacred 
 to me ever since the Bible first poured its light and truth into 
 my heart, seemed to invite me at a distance ; and well I knew 
 that God, who had in ancient days manifested himself there to 
 patriarchs and prophets and apostles and especially in his 
 own dear Son, would still be there in the energy of his 
 power, and in the tenderness of his love, and in the richness 
 of his gospel-grace. As a Christian man, I went forth to visit 
 the birthplace and cradle of Christianity, with my Bible for 
 my guide-book and solace ; and it is a record of impressions 
 made upon a Christian mind that I wish to present in these 
 pages. 
 
 It is neither my desire nor intention to describe emotions 
 and sensations occasioned by the presence of venerable and 
 sacred objects, for they, of necessity, must be peculiar to 
 the tone and habit of individual minds, and therefore, not 
 unfrequently obscure, and generally unsatisfactory to others, 
 whose susceptibilities have never been awakened by the 
 actual presence of the objects to which they may refer. Mere
 
 MOTIVES, ETC. 3 
 
 emotions and sensations are really very inconsiderable matters, 
 though they commonly give a complexion to the actions of our 
 daily life ; they are not of us, but they are about and within 
 us ; they come and go unbidden, and without our controul ; 
 they bear, in general, but little trace of their whereabout; 
 they are ready to take flight at any moment when the wing 
 of time and change prepares to waft them away ; and the heart 
 on which they have lighted for a season, is apt to be as inconstant 
 and changeful as they. But, there is a deep, inward process, 
 far beyond sensation and emotion, which goes on in hearts 
 directed and regulated in their movements by the Spirit 
 of God, and which results in depositing impressions as enduring 
 as the mind itself impressions from a die formed with the 
 lines of thoughtful reflectiveness, and intelligible, on their 
 exposure, to other minds acted on by a similar influence. 
 
 The charm of all visible things, or the reverse, is the effect 
 of some inward impression made by them on the seat of the 
 intellect and the affections; and it is the province of such 
 impressions to recall, not only the objects themselves, but all 
 that stands in association with them, whether referring to the 
 past, the present, or the future. And it is possible, in the 
 way of simple narrative and description to give such a 
 portraiture of events, persons and places, as shall bring 
 them before the minds of others with startling vividness 
 and reality; but that is not all we want. It is the invisible 
 portraiture of things reflected on the heart, reproduced and 
 given forth from mind to mind, which alone has power to 
 satisfy the enquiring and rightly discerning spirit. And I 
 am not without hope that such will read these pages with 
 interest.
 
 4 FRANCE BOULOGNE. 
 
 When we weighed anchor on the Fifth of March, 1842, 
 at the dawn of day, in the stirring port of London, and when 
 I felt that a few hours would probably land me on a foreign 
 shore, I could but look around amidst the forest of masts, 
 and contemplate the indications they afforded of England's 
 national greatness and commercial importance ; and in that 
 contemplation, I could not help blending a thought of the 
 vastness of her responsibility as a Christian nation, blest with 
 the fulness of gospel light, and enriched beyond other lands 
 in gospel privileges. 
 
 Ten hours and a half of pleasant sailing brought us to the 
 port of Boulogne. The first sight of the shores of France 
 awakened in my mind many a train of thought bearing upon 
 her past history as well as her present condition and prospects. 
 True the age of her chivalry was gone, and perhaps some- 
 what of her national glory departed : clouds had burst over 
 her, and the volcanic eruptions of political terror had lacerated 
 her : light and darkness had undergone many a conflict within 
 her, and deep traces of the latter, in a spiritual form, were 
 abundantly visible; but still no one could deny that there 
 were yet left in France materials of a great and noble kind, 
 on which a regenerative process, political, moral, and spiritual 
 might act successfully. For this every Christian heart should 
 pray; and if it please God that the movement towards spiritual 
 light which has happily begun, and towards which many 
 influential minds are now inclining, both in and out of the 
 Church of Rome, should grow and effectually extend itself, 
 there is no height of national greatness to which France may 
 not arise. 
 
 It was on Sunday the day after our arrival at Boulogne, 
 that an opportunity presented itself of hearing a style and 
 manner of preaching in the Church of Rome, calculated to 
 induce and propel such a movement as that to which I have 
 referred. After having attended the service in the English 
 Chapel with comfort and edification, the bells of the parish 
 Church announced the hour of vespers. I entered while
 
 HOMISH PREACHING. 5 
 
 the congregation was assembling, and which consisted, as 
 most Roman Catholic congregations in France do, chiefly 
 of females of the humbler classes. But few men are ever 
 found among them ; which may tend to prove, that however 
 the genius of Popery may prevail, yet that its outward 
 symbols have but little charm for, or influence upon, the 
 public mind. The caffe, the promenade, and the other various 
 sources of mere gratification, seem to claim the Sunday hours 
 of the greater part of the population. 
 
 After the usual service of vespers, upon which I make no 
 comment, a young ecclesiastic the beau ideal of a French 
 priest ascended the pulpit, and addressed the congregation 
 with great earnestness on the subject of the real presence 
 of our Lord Jesus Christ in the eucharist. There was a 
 degree of boldness and unrestraint in his manner of preaching, 
 which left my mind impressed with the notion that it 
 was not just on the side of the dogmas of a Church that 
 he was declaiming, but on matters which were deposited 
 in his mind with all the sanctity of eternal truth about 
 them : and one remarkable feature of his ministry was that 
 he earnestly appealed to the judgments of his hearers a 
 novel appeal to come from the lips of a priest of the Church 
 of Rome. Let but the people be invited and urged to form 
 a judgment for themselves, and let the means and opportunities 
 for right judgment be set before them by the unhindered 
 circulation of the pure and unadulterated word of God, and 
 the movement set on foot in France the element of which 
 was contained in this young preacher's sermon must, under 
 the Divine blessing, lead on to a happy issue for the spiritual 
 interests of the French people, and others on whom their 
 national influence may be exercised. 
 
 I cannot forbear to record here a circumstance which 
 affected my mind very sensibly. On the evening of my 
 arrival at Boulogne, I had retired to my room, and on 
 opening my Bible for my evening portion, the first passage 
 on which my eye rested, was Isaiah Ixvi. 13 "As one whom
 
 O CAVIGLIA. 
 
 his mother comforteth, so will I comfort you; and ye shall be 
 comforted in Jerusalem" I am not wont to use holy scripture 
 superstitiously, nor do I think it could justly be deemed 
 superstitious, if I regarded this passage as given for my special 
 solace and comfort on the very day I commenced my journey 
 to the Holy Land. If there are any who would account me 
 superstitious on this score, I should be much more willing to 
 bear the imputation than forego the comfort which that word 
 afforded me. 
 
 From Boulogne, our route lay direct to Paris. I dwell not 
 on the objects of deep historical interest which arrested my 
 attention while there. They are familiar to most readers. 
 The genius of the French mind, and the habitude of the 
 French people, are both strikingly exhibited in every thing 
 that meets the eye in that remarkable capital. One thing 
 which afforded me great satisfaction was the opportunity 
 of meeting the venerable Caviglia, so celebrated for his twenty 
 years explorative residence in and about the Pyramids of Egypt. 
 He was then in Paris. We had expected to find him in 
 Egypt. Introduced by a note from a mutual friend, we 
 visited him at his residence a small attic, five or six floors 
 upwards, with barely room for his bed, a small table, and a 
 little collection of books. He received us with frankness and 
 urbanity. The history of this man is very remarkable and 
 instructive. After a long life, spent in scientific pursuits, 
 and in the search of truth in her many avenues, or rather in 
 the many avenues in which she is commonly sought; and after 
 labouring in occult sciences and pushing his enquiries, as he 
 now believes, through the personal agency of the evil one, to 
 their extreme point, God was pleased to land him on the sure 
 foundation of revealed truth; and though in communion, 
 nominally only I hope, with the Church of Rome, yet he 
 seems to be aware of, and disengaged from, her sorceries. He 
 is as simple as a child, and his sweet benevolent countenance 
 beamed on us. He told us of the fact above alluded to, that 
 there is a great movement, in the way of enquiry, going on in 
 the Church of Rome in France ; and in this he seemed heartily
 
 FRENCH DILIGENCE. 7 
 
 to rejoice, as every man would, who, like him, has found 
 his religion in the bible, apart from the traditions of men. I 
 shall not easily forget him. There sat the enlightened, the 
 distinguished, the Christian Caviglia, in his poor rude attic, 
 without fire, without domestics, and almost without the usual 
 conveniences of life, and with but few friends. He was within 
 the mighty heart of Paris ; but infinitely above all that makes 
 it throb with ever changing emotions. He says his great 
 desire is now to die a little daily, that he may not have it all 
 to do at the last. He seems like a man of a better age than 
 this ; one who has fed on better hopes than the men of this 
 generation. He has lived so long above the ordinary habits 
 of the world, that it is now no matter of self-denial to end his 
 career in an attic. It seemed to afford him satisfaction to see 
 my dear fellow-traveller and myself two English Clergymen 
 on our way to the Holy Land ; and when we rose to take our 
 leave, he held us by the hand, called us his dear brethren in 
 the Lord Jesus Christ, and prayed God to increase the number 
 of devoted followers of our Divine Master. There was a 
 touching solemnity in our parting. The door closed upon us. 
 I felt that our next meeting might be where there will be no 
 separation. 
 
 
 
 I have made this mention of the venerable Caviglia, in 
 order to put before my readers a memorable instance of the 
 unsearchable manner in which our heavenly Father is 
 sometimes pleased to dispense his grace, and to seek and 
 find those on whom he intends his glory should rest. 
 
 Our route lay from Paris to Chalons, through Charenton, 
 Melun, Sens, Joigny, Auxerre, Avallon and Autun; and 
 the whole of it was dreary enough. On quitting Paris, we 
 experienced an instance of merciful protection not to be 
 forgotten. The huge, unwieldy and overladen Diligence was 
 driven by a wild, dashing and reckless fellow ; and as we were 
 turning a very sharp corner, with a rapid descent in the road, 
 at full gallop, I felt the vast machine poising under me, and 
 all but dashed down on its side. The driver himself looked
 
 8 LYONS. 
 
 back, pale with amazement at finding we had escaped. Had 
 it been otherwise, the consequences must have been terrible. 
 The exit from Paris towards Lyons is in the worst possible 
 order; scarcely two carriages can go abreast; but notwith- 
 standing our recent danger and escape, the driver dashed on 
 as before, and I felt persuaded that under his misguidance 
 something untoward must happen. However, we reached the 
 end of our stage in safety ; but another and another, as wild 
 as he, assumed the reins throughout the journey, and surely 
 it was no small cause of thanksgiving that we proceeded 
 without mischief. The drivers of French Diligences are quite 
 a people by themselves. Their endless talkings, shoutings, 
 and cracking of whips by night as well as by day, admit of no 
 hope of repose to the weary traveller. When we were near 
 Sanlieu, suddenly one of the springs of the overloaded 
 carriage broke, and rendered it problematical whether we 
 should be able to proceed. A country artiste in timber 
 bungled together a wooden support to the dilapidated spring, 
 in the hope that we might be able to hold on our way. 
 Notwithstanding our fracture, the heedless driver dashed on 
 as if nothing had happened ; and when we reached Autun, a 
 striking ancient town, and had made a suitable delay for needful 
 repairs, we proceeded for six hours more .over roads impracti- 
 cable enough to try the stability of any carriage less substantial 
 than a French Diligence. Chalons was reached at last. 
 
 Our route lay from Chalons to Lyons, on the Saone, a 
 delightful sail of eight hours. The first view of Lyons is far 
 more impressive than that of Paris itself. The unequal 
 surface, and the more distant parts of the town occupying 
 elevated positions, give an idea of extent and magnitude for 
 which I was not quite prepared, when thinking of Lyons as 
 the second town in the French territory. The view of Lyons, 
 and of the adjacent country from the observatory, is extensive 
 and most interesting, and far exceeding in my estimation the 
 view of Paris and its environs as obtained from the top of the 
 triumphal arch of Napoleon. "When the eye had traversed 
 the far-stretching ranges of human habitations, and the busy,
 
 ROMISH SUPERSTITIONS. 9 
 
 stirring scenes of trade, commerce, and giddy pleasure, which 
 seemed to lie at our feet ; and when it sought for still further 
 objects of interest, there in the distance, appeared the snow- 
 capped "monarch of mountains" Mont Blanc, with MontCenis, 
 and the range of the Alps towering away, with bold and well 
 denned outline, in strong relief upon their clear atmospheric 
 background. It was a scene never to be forgotten : but how 
 difficult to present to the mental eye of others, by the feeble 
 though graphic instrumentality of words. It seemed to stand 
 before me like the beautiful creations of a dreamy hour ; and 
 I could scarcely believe that after so few days of absence 
 from home, my eye was resting on those noble and far-famed 
 mountains. 
 
 After descending the observatory ,we made a visit to the much 
 celebrated and ancient Church, near at hand, dedicated to the 
 Virgin, in connexion with whose name numberless miracles 
 are said to have been wrought; in token of which, the walls 
 are literally covered with pictures representing the scenes 
 and circumstantials of the alleged miracles some of them dis- 
 tressing, some ludicrous ; and little models, in wax, of diseased 
 members of the human body hands, arms, feet, eyes, &c., 
 said to have been healed, are suspended in innumerable rows. 
 In one corner of the Church I observed a wooden leg of the 
 usual construction an offering made by a lame man, who 
 had no further occasion for it, by reason of the miraculous 
 restoration, I suppose, of the lost member, the place of which 
 it had supplied. The useless wooden leg became thus a 
 pious and votive offering to the Virgin. The mention of these 
 things may at first excite a smile with many who see only the 
 absurdity of them; but those who know what it is to live 
 under the sober influence of a pure gospel, will see more than 
 absurdity, and lament with me over these sad proofs of a 
 degrading credulity, at variance with that faith which elevates 
 the soul and purifies the heart. In the immediate vicinity 
 of the Church were numerous shops for the sale of the various 
 toys of Popery rosaries, crucifixes, pictures of saints, martyrs, 
 &c. ; and amongst these degrading matters of commerce, a vast
 
 10 THE RHONE. 
 
 supply of wax models of members of the human body was 
 ready to meet the intentions of every votive offerer. At 
 the principal entrances to most of the parish Churches, there 
 are stalls fixed for the sale of the small trappings of popish 
 worshippers. 
 
 From Lyons, our course lay down the lovely and picturesque 
 Rhone to Avignon that ancient city, so celebrated in the 
 history of the fate and fortunes of the Papacy. As the Rhone 
 is less visited by English travellers than the Rhine, I dwell 
 rather upon its rich and varied scenery ; and do not hesitate 
 to say, that it produced on my mind more vivid impressions 
 than even the Rhine itself, or the richer parts of the Danube 
 which I visited on my return. The Rhone deserves far more 
 attention than it has yet received. Travellers are frequently 
 too ready to follow in a beaten track, and perhaps often admire 
 scenes of celebrity more because others have admired them, 
 than on account of any direct or comparative impressions 
 which they themselves have received. 
 
 From Lyons to Avignon the scenery is for the most part 
 progressive in boldness and picturesque beauty. Always rapid, 
 frequently broad and expansive, the rich river-current flows 
 on majestically. It effects a junction with the Saone at Lyons. 
 The bold hills on the right, or western bank of the Rhone, 
 are generally clothed with terraces of vines from the margin 
 of the river to their very summits ; and on some of them is 
 produced the delicious Hermitage, the Vin du Perryae, as 
 well as the Vin ordinaire of the country. The towns and 
 villages on both banks are often bold, very bold, and always 
 interesting as pictures, exhibiting as a prominent feature, 
 the light gracefulness of the Italian style. White convents, 
 and religious houses, occupying- often difficult and elevated 
 positions, give great enrichment to the scene. True, we 
 have not on the banks of the Rhone those fine remains 
 of ancient fortification which impart an aspect of majestic 
 grandeur to the heights on either side the Rhine ; but we have 
 that which more than compensates the noble range of the
 
 AVIGNON NISMES. 11 
 
 Alps, with their snow-capped summits stealing in upon the 
 scene at various bends of the river, giving massiveness and 
 grandeur to the whole. 
 
 While in conversation with an intelligent Englishman, whose 
 avocations were connected with the Rhone navigation, I learnt, 
 that among the mountain-population on either side of the river, 
 an important protestant movement was progressing; that the 
 priests were fully aware of it, and that many of them did not 
 hesitate to confess that the people were no longer to be driven, 
 but must be led. There seems to be no doubt that the personal 
 influence of the Eomish priesthood in France is on the 
 decline perhaps more than that, not only in the cities and 
 towns, but in the more secluded parts of the kingdom 
 also. This may be the effect of several causes separately 
 acting, or combined ; such as the natural unwillingness 
 of unregenerate man to submit to spiritual constraint, the 
 growing influence of a practical infidelity, and a spirit 
 of inquiry in the minds of the more thoughtful, which leads 
 them to surmise the unscriptural nature of the spiritual 
 and temporal dominancy of their Church. Dispensations and 
 indulgences are however still sought for, and purchased at 
 various prices according to the wants and ability of the 
 purchasers ; and masses for the dead are doled out at from 
 three francs and upwards. 
 
 The approach to Avignon was graced by large numbers 
 of almond trees in blossom, enlivening by their delicate and 
 florid tints, the groves of olive and cypress amidst which 
 they are planted ; and it was charming to find ourselves at 
 length brief sojourners in the ancient city itself venerable in 
 appearance venerable in its associations. Before the sun had 
 begun to set, we ascended the elevation occupied by the fine 
 old cathedral, from whence we commanded the continuous 
 windings of the Rhone, along which we had so recently passed, 
 and the rich hill-country through which it flows. 
 
 * 
 
 Pursuing our course towards Nismes, for the sake of visiting 
 its ancient Roman remains, we again embarked on the
 
 GENOA. 
 
 Rhone, amidst the charms of a sweet spring morning, while 
 the rays of the early sun shed a peculiar lustre upon the 
 mist-enveloped city of Avignon and its surrounding hill 
 and valley. On reaching Beaucaire, we proceeded by land 
 to Nismes, and soon were engaged in exploring its interesting 
 antiquities ; in the foremost rank of which is the amphitheatre, 
 in a state of preservation far beyond the more celebrated ruin 
 of that kind in Rome. Viewed both from within and from 
 without, on its walls and in its area, it presented to the mind 
 a very perfect idea of the nature of those structures, in the 
 barbarous use of which the Romans so greatly delighted. This 
 amphitheatre still contains, entire, a great number of graduated 
 sittings, capable, it is said, when in their perfect state, of 
 accommodating upwards of twenty thousand persons. It was 
 delightful to view this ancient fabric, and to know that the 
 purposes for which it was erected had long since passed away; 
 that never again would the fierce conflict and the death-sigh 
 of the gladiator be heard there no longer would the cruel 
 torture of contending wild beasts awaken a thrill of blood- 
 thirsty delight in assembled thousands, enveloped in the shades 
 of pagan darkness. A vast moral change had been wrought, 
 and the record of its triumph is written by time on the 
 crumbling walls of this scene of suffering and of blood. 
 
 From Nismes we proceeded by way of Aries to Marseilles, 
 catching distant and lovely glimpses of the Mediterranean 
 with its deep blue waters, on which we hoped so soon to be 
 launched on our way to new scenes of interest. It was 
 with a fresh and stirring breeze that we embarked for 
 Genoa, that seat of ancient greatness, so replete with rich 
 associations. 
 
 We were almost immediately under weigh soon passed 
 out of the harbour, and in a few minutes were upon the 
 blue, beautiful and majestic waters, reflecting the deep azure 
 of the heavens, and laughing in the bright sunlight. Day 
 passed charmingly ; and night, with her moonlit-solemnities, 
 kept me wakeful on deck for many an hour. When 
 the morning broke, we found the shores of Italy on our
 
 GENOA. 13 
 
 left, bathed in that sweet misty light which enriches and 
 mellows the landscape on which it falls. We were in 
 the gulph of Genoa, and soon its port became distinctly 
 visible. Genoa, as viewed from the harbour, is very lovely. 
 It is flanked by a chain of mountains, of bold and graceful 
 outline, on the sides of which the venerable mass is built ; 
 and far towards the left are seen the snowy summits of the 
 Alps. The city was radiant with light, glancing and resting 
 upon her towers, domes, turrets and marble-fronted palaces 
 those remnants and memorials of a grandeur and of a glory 
 which have passed away for ever. 
 
 Having but one day allotted to Genoa, we gladly stepped 
 ashore at the very first opportunity, and soon filled our minds 
 with Italian associations by a walk through the Strada Nuova 
 and Strada Balbi, where palace after palace of the most stately 
 and graceful kind presented itself for our admiration. Three 
 classes of objects occupied our attention, namely, churches, 
 palaces of the Genovese nobility, and views of the city and its 
 bay from elevated spots. The streets of Genoa, are for the 
 most part narrow, yet bold ; while the rich and graceful style 
 of architecture which prevails, renders every street and alley 
 a fit subject for the pencil. And then the moving and ever 
 changing crowds of population, in all the varieties of national 
 costume women in their delicate gauze veils, or else of richly 
 figured silk shoals of ecclesiastics of various orders monks, 
 friars, and sisters of charity, in the habits of their several grades, 
 made me almost feel as if what I had often seen in pictures 
 was realized before me, till at length all seemed changed into 
 one vast picture again ; and it will be remembered by me, just 
 as we remember a picture. The Churches are in general fine 
 in their way, and profuse in the Italian style of decoration, 
 to a degree that becomes offensive to the more chastened 
 and protestant taste of the English. While examining one 
 of the Churches, I was much struck by the behaviour of a 
 poor feeble old man who entered shortly after me. He 
 made his way direct towards a small picture of our blessed 
 Lord on the cross, which hung rather low; and having
 
 14 CIVITA-VECCHIA ROME. 
 
 fervently kissed the feet of the Saviour and gazed upwards 
 with an apparently deep devotedness of manner, he sank 
 slowly down upon his knees and seemed absorbed at once 
 by the inward exercise of his soul a scene worthy of a 
 better form of Christianity. 
 
 Altogether, we spent a very charming though hurried day 
 at Genoa; and in the evening embarked for Leghorn and 
 Civita-vecchia direct for Rome. 
 
 Civita-vecchia is a miserable little port, and presented on 
 our arrival a scene of clamorous disorder not easy to be 
 described. Shoals of squalid and eager porters awaited our 
 setting foot on shore, with the most intense anxiety ; and when 
 our luggage was landed, each article was seized by a separate 
 hand, while fierce contention raged for a time between the 
 successful and the disappointed members of this wild and 
 ragged fraternity. At length luggage and travellers were 
 safely conducted to the Dogana, where the former underwent 
 the usual preliminary search on entering the papal states. 
 Most of our packages, and especially a box containing my 
 travelling library, were bound round with cords and sealed 
 with an official seal, in order that they might undergo such a 
 search at Rome as should satisfy a jealous and suspicious 
 government, that nothing was imported tending to affect 
 the safety of the " holy see." After a rough refreshment at a 
 miserable hotel, we set out for Rome distant about forty- 
 eight miles English, with a very unhappy equipment, which 
 made it necessary for us to rest at Palo till midnight, or rather 
 to wait, for rest was out of the question, amidst the most 
 clamorous set of French, Italian, Scotch, and English I have 
 ever beheld. Soon after midnight we resumed our wearisome 
 journey. 
 
 The sun was just rising upon the " eternal city," when we 
 approached it, on the twenty-third of March. Excessive 
 fatigue benumbed in some degree the sensations with which, 
 under other circumstances, I should have approached a spot
 
 ROME DOGANA. 15 
 
 so deeply affecting as Rome ; but yet, I could not suffer the 
 far-famed city to break upon my view without a retrospective 
 glance at those by-gone days, along which the broad current 
 of Roman story flowed on majestically, in contrast with the 
 more modern associations which forced themselves upon the 
 mind. Pagan glory, robed in darkness, as the characteristic 
 of the former age ; and spiritual degradation, hand in hand 
 with vast and fearful depravity, as the indication of the latter, 
 supplied the elements of the moral picture on which my mind 
 rested, as I drove within the walls of the modern city, 
 crossing the lazy waters of the ancient Tiber. 
 
 On reaching the city gates, we were instantly under 
 the charge of a military escort that sign of a tyrannical 
 government and conducted at once to the Dogana, where, at 
 that early hour of the morning, our passports were demanded 
 and our luggage all examined, with the exception of my 
 travelling library, which had been secured by the papal 
 seal at Civita-vecchia. This was detained, in order that 
 on a future day, however inconvenient to me, it might be 
 thoroughly searched by a proper officer, that I might not with 
 impunity, bring into the papal territory, books included in 
 the Index Expurgatorious of truth-hating Rome. Three days 
 after our arrival, I attended at the Dogana, to be present at 
 the examination of my books, after several hours spent in 
 undergoing the various previous formalities. The system of 
 espionage, which prevails in the papal dominions, is disgusting 
 in the extreme, and repulsive to an English mind. The 
 whole proceedings, to which I was thus subject, breathed the 
 very genius of the inquisition. I must, however, confess that 
 when at last we came into the presence of the literary Censor, 
 and the box and its contents were fairly exposed to his view, 
 he behaved with the greatest courtesy and consideration; 
 and though the entire Scriptures in Hebrew, Greek, and 
 English, together with several books, bearing reference to 
 the restoration of Israel and other subjects of protestant 
 theology, came under his inquisitive glance he read out 
 their titles addresed me in good English, upon which he
 
 16 ROME ST. PETER'S. 
 
 rather seemed to pique himself, and said, " If you are satis- 
 fied so am I ;" and permitted me to replace my little treasure 
 of sacred literature in the box, and kindly facilitated my 
 movements in what yet remained to be done at the Dogana ; 
 but I did not escape without paying a duty per pound upon 
 my books, bibles and all. Alas for Rome ! 
 
 The "Holy "Week" had eommenced before we reached 
 Rome ; and so great was the influx into the city at that time, 
 that we found it a matter of much difficulty to procure 
 accommodation of any kind. Having at length succeeded, 
 and refreshed ourselves after our wearisome journey, we 
 proceeded at once to the objects of interest which claimed 
 our attention. We allotted to ourselves six days for our 
 sojourn in Rome little enough it must be confessed; but we 
 were anxious to press onwards to scenes of deeper interest 
 still. Two main objects lay before me the one, was to 
 see all that could be seen of Popery at head quarters ; the 
 other, was to contemplate the remains of Rome scattered 
 around me, with all their traces of ancient glory and ruined 
 magnificence. 
 
 Our first excursion was from the Via del Babuino, over 
 the bridge of St. Angelo, commanding the celebrated fort 
 of that name straight to St. Peter's. I feel difficulty in 
 communicating to others the first and subsequent impressions 
 made on my mind by that celebrated structure. On driving 
 up to the grand area so noble in its dimensions, with its cool 
 gush of graceful fountains flinging up their feathery streams 
 to a great height, and returning them in rich dews upon the 
 thirsty pavement; and on gazing forwards to the cathedral itself, 
 with its dome and stately colonnades on either side, and with 
 the splendid elevation of the Vatican the residence of the 
 assumed vicegerent of Christ upon earth, looking down upon 
 the vast pile with which it is connected, in silent majesty, 
 and telling the dark story of many a departed day in the 
 annals of the papacy there was in my mind a sense of 
 disappointment, which was not by any means diminished when
 
 ROME ST. PETER'S. 17 
 
 I set my foot within the portico of the temple. On analyzing 
 the state of my mind, I found that the sense of disappointment 
 did not arise from any cause really induced by St. Peter's 
 itself, but from the actually unprepared state of the mental 
 perception. It is one thing to see with the natural eye ; 
 another to perceive with the inward vision of the mind. 
 I saw St. Peter's at first only with the natural eye ; and it 
 appeared not indeed diminutive or insignificant, but small 
 in proportion to the mental picture I had conceived of it. 
 During my first visit I was not able to get my mind fairly 
 at work upon the subject so occupied was it by the various 
 things which fixed my attention at once, and in succession; 
 and thus St. Peter's was still an object of disappointment. 
 It was only after the second and third visit that I 
 discovered the cause of this; when I found, that as my 
 mind expanded over the various details of architectural 
 magnificence so the grand whole expanded itself before my 
 perception, till I became overpowered by the full sense of 
 vastness. Every mind, I am persuaded, must undergo such a 
 process as this, before the full effect of St. Peter's is realized. 
 I began by a comparative view of things. I first took one 
 of the nave pillars nearest to me at the western entrance, and 
 saw how diminutive the tallest men appeared at its base. 
 I then gazed upwards to the foot of a marble statue, which 
 was so boldly colossal, that when I carried my eye upwards 
 to its full height, it seemed at a point of elevation sufficient 
 to be the capital of a main pillar of any ordinary structure. 
 Beyond the head of the statue the pillar towered loftily, joined 
 itself to the vault of the immense nave, and fell into junction 
 with a corresponding pillar on the other side, down which 
 my eye travelled till it rested on its base. I tried to view 
 these two pillars in their connexion with the aroh of the 
 nave separate from the lengthened colonnade of which they 
 were the commencement; and having imbibed the distinct 
 idea of them, I suffered my mind to carry it on to every 
 succeeding column, till, resting for a moment on the high 
 altar, with its magnificent bronze and gold castings, I glanced 
 onwards to the grand eastern termination ; and then it was,
 
 18 ROME ST. PETER'S. 
 
 while thousands and thousands of devotees and others were 
 pacing the marble area like pigmies rather than men, that I 
 was able to compass the idea of St. Peter's as a temple fitting, 
 in its magnificence, the noblest of all purposes, though degraded 
 to the uses of a base and God-dishonouring idolatry. 
 
 Of the statuary, with which every part of St. Peter's 
 abounds, it is impossible to speak in terms of adequate admi- 
 ration. It seems as if marble breathed and became eloquent 
 as well as graceful and majestic, under the hand of the sculp- 
 tor-magician. I could fill this volume with details of such 
 matters ; but I must pause, and only mention one statue in 
 particular, now designated as St. Peter, but once Jupiter. It 
 is in bronze ; and the hand which once wielded the thunder- 
 bolt, now grasps the key an emblem of power not less 
 terrible than the other. It is a fine, calm, dignified statue ; 
 and the right foot is actually w*>rn by the frequent and fervent 
 kissing of devotees, to which it has been and is continually 
 subject. 
 
 When we reached St. Peter's on our first visit, the vesper 
 service had begun; and certainly the music, consisting 
 of human voices, without any instrumental accompaniment 
 whatever, was of the richest kind ; but alas ! the spirit 
 of devotion seemed not to influence the hearts of the assembled 
 multitudes. After the service was concluded, a procession 
 of priests of various orders was formed, from which certain 
 individuals advanced and enacted the accustomed ceremony 
 of washing the high altar with wine and water; next 
 followed an exhibition of relics, such as the spear-head, 
 with which the side of our adorable Redeemer is said to 
 have been pierced ; a fragment of the " true cross," &c. ; and 
 lastly came processions of pilgrims from all parts of the world 
 where popery prevails carrying back our associations to the 
 earlier ages of papal dominancy. The immense area of St. 
 Peter's was thronged with visitors (amongst whom were many 
 English), ecclesiastics of all grades and orders in their graceful 
 and picturesque attire, and monks with their shaven crowns,
 
 ROME PANTHEON. 19 
 
 and the various habits of their order. It was altogether 
 a most imposing scene ; but the great drawback upon it all, 
 was the melancholy feeling, that religion the religion which 
 saves souls and glorifies God, had no place in this splendid 
 temple of a false system. 
 
 On the twenty-fifth of March, being Good Friday, we had 
 the happiness of attending divine service at the English Chapel, 
 which is situated just outside the Porta del Popolo, on the 
 road to Florence. The sermon was solemn and profitable, 
 from Luke xxiii. 48. It was no small privilege to be permitted 
 there in the very strong hold of popery, to hear the truth 
 as it is in Jesus, simply and faithfully proclaimed. We 
 occupied a few hours afterwards in exploring some of the 
 more distinguished churches in the city splendid in decora- 
 tion, as well as in architecture ; as if human wealth were 
 possessed only for one end the giving lustre to the various 
 appointments connected with a religion, such as that professed 
 and taught by the Church of Rome. 
 
 Passing onwards in our perigrinations, we reached the 
 Pantheon the Pantheon of ancient Rome. Time had been, 
 when perishing mortals received apotheosis there. But things 
 are changed, yet scarcely for the better. The beautifully 
 proportioned and graceful structure is now overrun with 
 popery. Altars are erected at every part of the bold circle ; 
 and popish devotees were actively engaged in what they 
 deemed religious exercises, before each. On the steps of one 
 altar lay a large crucifix, with wax candles in abundance 
 burning on either side. Many persons knelt and fervently 
 kissed the feet of the wax caricature of our adorable Redeemer, 
 and at the same time dropped a small pecuniary offering into a 
 little dish, placed for that purpose near the object of adoration. 
 Money and devotedness are inseparably connected in the 
 Church of Rome. 
 
 The next object which fixed our attention was the Mons 
 Capitolinus the site, and part of the ancient structure of the
 
 20 ANCIENT ROME. 
 
 Capitol, around which memory congregates associations of the 
 most heart-stirring kind. In front of the Capitol stands 
 the undoubtedly ancient equestrian bronze statue of Marcus 
 Aurelius, with other works of art less perfect. It is as 
 fresh as ever, and as nobly graceful. From the tower of the 
 Capitol we obtained a general view of the chief remains of 
 Rome's greatness, together with the far-spreading Campagna, 
 and the course of the muddy Tiber. Directly under us, 
 and somewhat to the left, were the Mamertine prisons those 
 gloomy abodes of torture and death, in whose sad shadows 
 the great Apostle of the Gentiles once lay captive and bound ; 
 and near them, rather more towards the south, the remains 
 of the temple dedicated to Jupiter Tonans, consisting of three 
 exquisitely beautiful Corinthian columns of marble ; to the 
 right of these the portico of the Temple of Concord, and 
 to the left, the richly sculptured Arch of Septimus Severus. 
 And there, too, lay the site of the Forum Romanum all 
 silent and desolate : no voice of rivetting eloquence is there 
 save that of other days which comes back on the breeze of 
 fitful reminiscence. Carrying the eye onwards to the left, and 
 passing the remains of heathen temples now transformed into 
 churches, and bearing about them the trinkets and trappings 
 of popery the Colosseum, that noble monument which 
 attests alike the greatness and the littleness of Rome, stands 
 prominently in the field of vision. Viewed by daylight from 
 the summit of the Capitol, or at night, when the rich flood 
 of moonbeams is poured upon it the Colosseum is indeed a 
 wonderful object of interest. I contemplated it under both 
 aspects, and the impression will not be easily obliterated. 
 Time was, when the noble and the graceful, the royal and the 
 gifted, the virgin and the matron, the poet and the philosopher 
 found their places on those now crumbling seats capable of 
 containing their thousands upon thousands ; and gazing on the 
 vast area formed for deadly conflict, there sought, in the sad 
 excitement of the scene, for gratifications which the graceful 
 and rational pursuits of life had failed to afford. Popery has 
 set up her symbols in that scene of pagan heartlessness, only 
 exchanging one kind of darkness for another. Penitential
 
 ANCIENT ROME. 21 
 
 stations now surround the area ; a large crucifix occupies its 
 centre; and indulgences are granted in proportion to the 
 number of kisses which it receives from devotees. In the 
 language of a forcible writer on this and other scenes of ancient 
 and modern Rome, I only add "Erected by a Pagan, purged 
 of its inhuman rites by a Priest, and propped in old age by a 
 Pope the Colosseum shadows out some faint emblematical 
 picture of Rome itself. It was once the stormy theatre 
 of bloody deeds it is now the peaceful asylum of holy 
 crosses. Part of it still stands erect or renovated ; part of it 
 totters over its base ; but the greater part of it has vanished. 
 Eloquent in its silence, populous in its solitude, majestic in 
 its adversity, admired in its decay; the ruins of the Colosseum, 
 like the remains of Rome, excite the curiosity of the antiquary, 
 the ruminations of the moralist, the zeal of the Roman 
 Catholic, the admiration of the architect, the sigh of the 
 philanthropist, the sneer of the cynic, the humiliation of the 
 philosopher, and the astonishment of all." 
 
 Glancing onwards from the Colosseum to the right, the eye 
 rests upon the arch of Constantine, the first Christian Emperor 
 of Rome Christian, alas ! whose way to the imperial purple 
 was tracked in blood. As a work of art it is still noble ; as a 
 memorial, still valuable : but in the eye of the true Christian 
 it is a blot on the escutcheon of the true faith. Returning 
 up the Via Sacra, or Via Triumphalis, we find it spanned by 
 the Arch of Titus, sculptured with the story of Jerusalem's 
 fall under the Romam arms, and with the symbolic furniture 
 of the temple in bold relief, restored after a lapse of nearly 
 eighteen centuries, by a "succcessor of St. Peter." Whatever 
 may be the feelings with which we contemplate the Arch 
 of Titus and its sculptured trophies, and whatever the motive 
 which led to its erection, whether pride, vanity, or ostenta- 
 tion yet, there it stands, a record of prophecy fulfilled, and 
 of the purposes of Jehovah accomplished in the destruction 
 of Jerusalem, the sacking of the temple, and the final dispersion 
 of God's ancient people; and there probably it will stand 
 till the city of David shall again put on her glorious apparel,
 
 22 ROME "HOLY WEEK." 
 
 and the now scattered multitudes of Israel shall say " Blessed 
 be he that cometh in the name of the Lord." 
 
 To the right of the Arch of Titus, as seen from the Capitol, 
 stands the Palatine Hill, crowned with the crumbling remains 
 of those palaces in which the Casars moved the machinery 
 of Rome's mighty and once irresistible empire. Not a trace 
 remains of any thing, but of the perishableness of earthly 
 greatness ; and of this there is abundance. The ploughshare 
 has passed over those scenes in which pride and luxury and 
 cruelty held united sway; and now, rank overgrowth and 
 squalid wretchedness are left to declare how the glory which 
 was not after godliness has passed away like a dream. If 
 kings and empires were disposed to learn a rich volume of 
 instruction is to be gathered from the Mons Palatinus, and the 
 heart-humbling history which is embodied in the very name. 
 
 I feel I must not linger amidst these hoary remains of the 
 most wonderful empire of the world, crowding as they do 
 upon the memory, and each claiming a full and elaborate 
 description. My business is rather with that which is now 
 moving and acting in modern Rome. 
 
 During the "Holy "Week," we availed ourselves of all 
 opportunities for watching the ceremonies daily enacted in 
 St. Peter's ; and while marking the conduct of the thousands 
 who thronged the area, even while the stated ceremonies 
 were in progress, we could but notice the utter listlessness 
 which pervaded them. It left an impression on the mind, 
 that those who professed to account them sacred, were 
 nevertheless entirely unaffected by them. Mere lightness and 
 frivolity seemed to pervade all ranks, except perhaps a few 
 ascetic monks, who paced stealthily along amidst crowds with 
 whom they had but little sympathy. On one occasion, in the 
 afternoon of Good Friday, turning from the general assemblage 
 in the nave of the cathedral, we followed a large procession 
 of ecclesiastics, of various orders, headed by a " Lord Cardinal," 
 attended by his officers of state, into the northern side aisle,
 
 ROME " HOLY WEEK. 23 
 
 where, after having taken his seat under an enriched canopy, 
 he received the public confessions of those who chose to 
 make them. Hurried brief formal was the process ; after 
 which, shoals of persons, both lay and ecclesiastical, knelt 
 before him in succession, and received his benediction, which 
 was administered by a touch on the head with a small gilt 
 wand, something like a fishing-rod. Shortly after this, the 
 Pope entered not in full state, though abundantly attended ; 
 and, kneeling at a faldstool before the high altar, blessed the 
 relics contained in a vault constructed beneath it. This is a 
 custom of annual observance. 
 
 During the Saturday of the holy week, there is a cessation 
 of ceremonies at St. Peter's, and time is allowed for fixing 
 the various decorations, in order to give a stage-like effect to 
 the sad drama of the following day the day on which we 
 celebrate the resurrection from the dead of Him who " was 
 delivered for our offences, and raised again for our justifica- 
 tion." Feeling that I ought to embrace every opportunity 
 of seeing Popery in the magnificent form which it assumes at 
 head quarters, in order that future protests against it might be 
 based upon actual experience, I resolved on being present at 
 St. Peter's on Easter-day. Popery, as it is, can be thoroughly 
 understood only in Rome. We may read of it in books, and 
 become intimately enough acquainted with its dogmas and 
 doctrines and discipline. We may trace its insidious workings 
 in our own land, whether it go like the serpent, or speak like the 
 dragon ; but as to its power to influence the mind, by captivating 
 the imagination this must be looked for in Rome ! 
 
 As early as nine o'clock on Easter Sunday, we found 
 the church thronged by those who were eagerly waiting for 
 the ceremonies of the day ; while the whole extent of the 
 area was lined by the papal guards in their picturesque 
 Swiss attire, keeping a due space for those who were 
 to take part in the proceedings. All Rome was throbbing 
 with life and animation. Its week-day dullness, and 
 moping inactivity were quite banished. All was glitter and
 
 24 ROME "HOLY WEEK." 
 
 glare and display. Carriages of nobles and cardinals 
 the latter with their splendid gold and sumptuous scarlet 
 trappings, thronged the streets, which resounded with 
 the clattering of wheels and the cracking of whips. All 
 notion of Sabbath quiet and peacefulness was at an 
 end. I thought of Christ and his meekness, and asked 
 within myself are these the genuine followers of such a 
 Master? as my eye glanced upon nobles, cardinals, and 
 inferior ecclesiastics, monks, pilgrims, and devotees, all 
 pressing on together in a current of excited eagerness, as 
 if to some secular spectacle. 
 
 I took my station on the south side of the high altar, amidst 
 one of the largest assemblies I ever witnessed ; and certainly, 
 I must admit, one of the most picturesque and striking. 
 Perhaps it would not be easy for the most vivid imagination 
 to conceive any thing more splendid and dazzling in its way. 
 And there was something, too, in the season of the year 
 the blandness of the atmosphere without, and the brightness 
 of the light within, that helped the mind and stimulated the 
 imaginative faculty. It was at about ten o'clock that the 
 great western doors of the cathedral were thrown wide open, 
 while the choir within sang the introductory anthem. By 
 and by, the papal procession began to enter, advancing up 
 the middle of the nave, which had been kept by the pontifical 
 guards. The procession was headed by soldiers in armour, 
 followed by a large retinue of the civil officers of the Pope, 
 in costume, and a great body of ecclesiastics, monks, friars, 
 &c. in the various habits of their orders. Then came a 
 representative of the Patriarch of the Greek Church 
 crowned, accompanied by several bishops of the same church, 
 and their various officers and attendants ; and after them, a 
 very large assemblage of bishops of the Church of Rome, in 
 their splendid and gold-embroidered robes and mitres ; next, 
 a great number of cardinals in their state attire of scarlet and 
 purple, attended by their train-bearers and other officials. 
 It was, perhaps, half an hour before those who formed the 
 procession had taken the several places assigned for them.
 
 "HOLY WEEK" THE POPE. 25 
 
 A large space behind the high altar, in which stood the 
 papal throne, was carpeted and superbly decorated with 
 gorgeous drapery of crimson and gold, and set apart for the 
 distinguished members of the procession, except for the 
 cardinals, whose place was immediately about the high altar, 
 so as to be in attendance upon the Pope. As soon as all 
 were in their places, a loud flourish of trumpets from without, 
 responded to by another within the cathedral, announced the 
 arrival of the Sovereign-Pontiff. Every eye was turned 
 towards the entrance on the south side, where there is a 
 communication with the Vatican, and soon was seen the 
 uplifted golden cross of the Pope, and next, himself, borne 
 aloft over the heads of the people in his gilded chair of state, 
 under a rich canopy, with fans of large dimensions made 
 of peacock's feathers, continually waving from side to side. 
 He wore his robes of state white-silk and gold, and his 
 triple crown. He sat more like an image than a living man, 
 with his eyes for the most part closed, and occasionally 
 moving his hands, as if in the act of benediction. His 
 person is far from prepossessing, however the weight of years 
 upon his brow might entitle him to be called venerable. I 
 should speak of his countenance as being a bad specimen 
 of the vulgar Italian. He was soon seated on his throne 
 behind the high altar, and received the homage of bishops 
 and others. His triple crown was then removed from 
 his royal brow, and forthwith offered and deposited on the 
 high altar ; and then, wearing a plain white skull-cap instead, 
 he was arrayed no longer in royal, but in priestly vestments, 
 for the purpose of saying mass, according to annual custom. 
 During the whole ceremony, the Pope, aged as he is, 
 appeared like a hale and active man. The scene was certainly 
 imposing and splendid in the extreme ; but alas, no religious 
 feeling could for a moment be connected with it. It seemed 
 altogether a matter of mere external display and ceremonious 
 pomp ; and I could not but feel how gracious a lot was mine, 
 that I should be a member of a church through which both 
 the bread of life and the water of life are really dispensed 
 to the people. And, alas ! I thought, if a poor guilty and
 
 26 PAPAL BENEDICTION. 
 
 sin-withered soul, craving for salvation, had entered St. Peter's 
 at that moment, he might have been dazzled by the church's 
 splendour, so as to have forgotten for a season the burthen 
 of his sorrows, but would have departed without an answer 
 capable of bringing peace and consolation. 
 
 The Mass was complete the host was elevated the 
 idolatrous adoration of the " bread-god " was performed, and 
 the immense congregation began to disperse, in order some to 
 witness, and others to receive, the papal benediction from the 
 front balcony of St. Peter's. Following the crowd, I made 
 my way to the grand area without ; and it was an overpowering 
 scene, when I beheld its vastness thronged with masses of people 
 waiting for the remaining ceremony. I cannot say that they 
 appeared like persons expecting to receive a spiritual benefit, 
 and so far they were right ; but yet, there they were, alas ! the 
 vassals of a sovereignty, which based its magnificence upon 
 the ruins of spirituality. The blue of an Italian sky hung 
 over us, and the lustre of the brightest sunlight broke upon 
 the lovely fountains that were casting their misty streams 
 far and wide. The great bell of St. Peter's and other bells 
 were tolling, military bands were playing, and all were at 
 the height of expectation, when at length, bells and music 
 suddenly ceased, and a dead silence pervaded the bare-headed 
 and attendant thousands. Immediately the Pope presented 
 himself at the middle balcony, in his full pontifical robes and 
 triple crown, borne forward in his chair of state, and gave 
 the accustomed benediction signing it, as it were, by the 
 motion of his hands. Some prostrated themselves on the 
 pavement, while others fell upon their knees, and a few 
 remained erect, as mere spectators. As soon as the ceremony 
 was complete, a volley of heavy cannon thundered from 
 Fort St. Angelo ; again the military bands burst forth with 
 their acclamatory strains, and soon the area was empty and 
 silent, except as it was traversed by the carriage of a lingering 
 cardinal or noble, wending his way from the splendours 
 of the Vatican. How sweet and refreshing was the simple 
 scriptural worship in which we joined in the afternoon at
 
 ITALIAN CHARACTER AND HABIT. 27 
 
 the English Protestant Chapel: how affecting the contrast 
 it presented to all we had witnessed in the lifeless formalities 
 of popery, splendid and imposing as they were to the perception 
 of the carnal mind. 
 
 It is quite impossible to convey an idea of the state of Rome 
 during the "Holy Week." It is a season which seems to 
 afford a strong stimulus to the whole sluggish, sensual, and 
 listless population; and has power to bring up from the 
 provinces great numbers of such as delight in a kind 
 of religious dissipation. When the season is past, the dull 
 habitude of indolent indulgence returns, and soon afterwards 
 Rome is deserted by the many who shrink from the summer 
 temperature which is approaching, and from the malaria 
 which breathes up from the Campagna, and carries disease 
 and death in its course. 
 
 Popery seems to be a system beyond all others adapted to the 
 tone of the Italian temperament, whose prevailing characteristic 
 is indolence. The Church is every thing, and it does every 
 thing. It leaves scarcely any thing for man to do for himself. 
 I believe the Italian mind, generally speaking, in its present 
 defective state of cultivation, is quite incapable of those 
 intense processes of thought and reflectiveness which the 
 individual pursuit of spiritual truth occasions. There is 
 a mental diligence and labour connected with real Christian 
 experience, such as the Italian mind is, as yet, unprepared 
 to exercise. Hence, then, the unlimited influence of a system 
 which professes to do for money, what cannot be accomplished 
 by any other means. The sinner rests his responsibility upon 
 the Church. The Church professes to relieve and cherish ; 
 and while drawing him to her maternal bosom, cheats him 
 of the " sincere rnilk of the word," and binds him with a 
 chain stronger than adamant. 
 
 It was on the thirtieth of March that we bade farewell to 
 Rome, en route for Naples. Quitting the city by the Porta 
 di San Giovanni, we had on our right the remains of the
 
 28 ALBANO. 
 
 Appian way, with its fragments of ancient Roman tombs. 
 On the left were the aqueducts those splendid and costly 
 means for supplying Rome with her overflowing fulness 
 of fountains, carrying with them in their course the proofs 
 of her greatness in design and vigour in execution. The 
 Campagna, through which we passed, was in all other 
 respects bare and uninteresting. Our route lay towards 
 Albano, near to which the Appian way is met by the more 
 modern road. A drive of between three and four hours 
 brought us to Albano, from the heights of which the eye 
 could range over the whole Campagna bounded on one 
 side by the Mediterranean, and on the other by the Apennines. 
 And there lay Rome that once " mighty heart " with her 
 now faint pulsation scarcely telling of life ; for Roman 
 animation is not life life crowded with generous motives, 
 and noble projects and elevated pursuit. But yet it was 
 something thus to look down on Rome, as the scene of some 
 of the earth's most astounding dramas as the seat of apostacy's 
 worst form. 
 
 On our right, as we descended from the carriage and 
 proceeded on foot up the hills of Albano, we had a tract 
 of rich agricultural country, bounded by the sea, which, from 
 thence towards Terracina, was the scene of the latter half 
 of the Eneid of Virgil. We were now on classic ground ; 
 but there was created in our minds an interest far beyond 
 all that associations merely classical could impart : we were 
 on the very road traversed by St. Paul, when, after his 
 shipwreck, he went up to Rome by way of Appii Forum and 
 the Three Taverns, 1 the usually assigned sites of which places 
 lay before us. Although, in all probability, the country has 
 in most of its details undergone considerable change since it 
 was visited by the great Apostle of the Gentiles, yet it was 
 deeply interesting to know, that its main features the grand 
 outlines of mountain, hill, valley, and ocean, as they now 
 exist, had been gazed on by him. 
 
 1 Acts xxviii. 11 15.
 
 VELLETRI PONTINE MARSHES. 29 
 
 On the evening of our first day's journey we reached 
 Velletri, and being anxious to proceed with all convenient 
 speed, we renewed our route after a suitable pause for rest 
 and refreshment ; and it was during the night that we crossed 
 the Pontine marshes, the atmosphere of which is so injurious 
 to persons who are not in robust health. Various and 
 repeated efforts have been made for effectually draining these 
 marshes, both previous and subsequent to the Christian era, 
 but in vain. I was awakened from my midnight slumber 
 in the carriage, by the wearisome croaking of the frogs, 
 which swarm in all parts. It sounded like the heavy falling 
 of waters at a distance ; and had I not heard it with my 
 own ears, I should have deemed it incredible that such a 
 noise could be emitted by such creatures. I should think 
 the sound, in a still night, might be heard at the distance 
 of three or four miles. The Pontine marshes are of wide extent, 
 and are the effect of an anciently commenced and perpetually 
 continued contest between the earth and the bright waves 
 of the Mediterranean ; and notwithstanding all the efforts from 
 time to time made to counteract their influence, so prejudicial 
 to human life, still they send forth a malaria, which is irresistible 
 in its effects. I awoke with a most distressing sensation 
 of fever and thirst, accompanied by an oppressive fulness 
 about the brain, which was probably the temporary effect of the 
 pestiferous atmosphere. I asked for water where we stopped 
 to change horses, but none was to be had fit for drinking; 
 and in order to subdue in some degree the craving of thirst, 
 I was glad to take a draught of poor sour Italian wine not 
 very palatable at the best, when compared with the bland 
 and delicate productions of France. 
 
 It was Appius Claudius who first conceived, and who 
 actually executed the bold idea of forming a solid road across 
 these terrible marshes ; and remains are still to be seen of the 
 canals, bridges, and private ways which were parts of the 
 bold undertaking. During a great part of the period of those 
 wars in which Rome was so frequently engaged, this territory, 
 over which so much treasure had been expended, became
 
 30 PONTINE MARSHES TERRACINA. 
 
 neglected ; the consequence of which was, a perpetual succes- 
 sion of inundations ; and, one hundred and fifty years before 
 the Christian era, extensive and costly reparations became 
 necessary. After long neglect, Julius Caesar conceived 
 extensive projects for their improvement ; Augustus followed 
 them up ; and Trajan, in his day, paved the main road, 
 and rebuilt many bridges which had fallen into decay, and 
 supplied additional ones. These lasted for a time ; but it was 
 reserved for Pope Boniface VIII. to make more suitable and 
 permanent improvements ; whose efforts were continued by 
 Sixtus V. and Pius VI. Still, notwithstanding all attempts, 
 the Pontine marshes are the region of misery and the abode 
 of death. Ague, jaundice, dropsy, marasmus, palsy, mania, 
 melancholy, there sit in watchful jealousy over the pulsations 
 of human life. 
 
 It was shortly after day -break that we reached Terracina, 
 which is washed by the blue waves of the Mediterranean ; 
 and though squalid and miserable in itself, as most provincial 
 towns in the papal states are, yet it was a charming relief to us, 
 after having encountered during the night the horrors of the 
 Pontine marshes. Terracina was a Volscian town, and anciently 
 named Anxur, or Axur; but the Greeks called it Trachina 
 (i. e. steep), on account of the bold white rocks by which it 
 is flanked; and hence its modern name Terracina. The 
 ancient Anxur was situated on the rocky height overlooking 
 the sea ; and remains of it are still visible. The Appian way 
 passed through Terracina. 
 
 After several hours delay for want of horses, we resumed 
 our route, in the hope of being able to reach Naples, 
 sometime in the evening or night, however late. On arriving, 
 however, at the barrier which separates the Neapolitan from 
 the Papal States, the lynx-eyed officer of a jealous government 
 detected a deficiency in our passports. Although we took 
 the precaution, on leaving England, to have foreign office 
 passports, and though they were properly signed by the 
 British and Roman authorities at Rome, they had not received
 
 PONTINE MARSHES TERRACINA. 31 
 
 the signature of the Neapolitan minister. This was fatal to 
 our progress, and very vexatious. No remedy suggested 
 itself, but that of entrusting our passports to the next Neapo- 
 litan courier to Rome on the following morning, which 
 involved the necessity of our return to Terracina, there 
 to await the arrival of the precious documents. The 
 hard-hearted official of the Neapolitan government had no 
 commiseration whatever with us in our unhappy predicament; 
 and back to Terracina we went with most unwilling steps. 
 Having entrusted our passports tq a courier, we waited their 
 return with all the patience we could command prisoners 
 as we were in the hands of the papal authorities. Oh, highly 
 privileged Britain ! through whose length and breadth both 
 native and foreigner, with equal freedom, may make their route 
 without the espionage of police, or the hindrance connected 
 with passports. I wish those who bellow about freedom, 
 in a land of liberty like ours, could just taste the reverse 
 of liberty, as the slaves of Rome and the serfs of some other 
 continental governments do. It would, perhaps, bring them 
 to a better judgment. 
 
 Terracina, like all other Italian towns, swarms with beggars ; 
 and troops of squalid and ragged children, trained to that 
 odious habit of life, beset you at every step. You hear their 
 small voices in little more than a half whisper, as if they 
 were almost ashamed of themselves, craving for the smallest 
 donation ; and in this way they will continue to pursue you for 
 several hundred yards, according as you may seem to look 
 kindly on them or otherwise. The whole population of the 
 papal states, so far as I had opportunity of observing, 
 appeared miserably poor and destitute; and those at 
 Terracina peculiarly so. No resident gentry are in the 
 neighbourhood to care for the people, or give a tone of moral 
 improvement to their minds. The Italian peasantry have 
 but few wants, and are content with what would be deemed 
 destitution by the extravagant beer-and-dram-drinking people 
 of England. True, the necessaries of life are far cheaper 
 in Italy than in England; but I am persuaded that if an
 
 3 TERRACINA APPIAN WAY. 
 
 Italian peasant could have the income of an English artizan, 
 he would account himself a wonderfully rich man, and never 
 dream of hardship or discontent. In the neighbourhood 
 of Terracina, you now and then meet a fine intelligent- 
 looking man, with a rich olive complexion, black hair and 
 full black eyes, wrapped in his flowing brown mantua, and 
 wearing the high-peaked and broad-brimmed hat. Though 
 the Brigands are now nearly extinct, yet in the costume 
 which I have just mentioned, you trace much that induces 
 you to associate the idea of Brigandism with any such you 
 meet. 
 
 At Terracina I gathered oranges and lemons from the 
 orchards by the way side, giving a trifle of money to the 
 proprietors for permission to do so. A single paul is quite 
 sufficient to procure all your pockets full of oranges and 
 lemons. We found a few palm trees, the first I had ever 
 seen, mingled with olive, orange, and lemon trees. The 
 appearance of their graceful feathery foliage in the landscape, 
 is very beautiful. In our walks we found great numbers 
 of lively green lizards, scampering upon the rocks, and shining 
 and sparkling in the sun. They are graceful creatures, both 
 in their form and motion. Buffaloes are very much used 
 in this country for the purpose of draught, and appear to 
 be very docile; and there is also a fine breed of noble 
 long-horned oxen, many of which are also employed in a 
 similar manner. 
 
 Having time at our disposal while delayed at Terracina, we 
 availed ourselves of the opportunity afforded, for examining 
 a part of the Appian way, which runs through the town, 
 towards Rome. We traced it distinctly, in greater or less 
 degrees of preservation, nearly to the point where it was met 
 by the present road over the Pontine marshes ; and the greater 
 part of it is as fresh, and in as solid a state as at any time 
 during the existence of ancient Rome. While walking on 
 this memorable road, it was not by any means an effort of the 
 imagination to conceive that our feet were actually pressing
 
 FONDI. 33 
 
 the very stones on which St. Paul trod in his way to Rome, after 
 having appealed to Caesar ; for it. is more than probable that 
 he journeyed on foot, such being then the customary mode 
 of travelling : and in earlier days it was usual, even for persons 
 of distinction to travel as pedestrians. Horace certainly 
 passed over this road on foot, from Rome to Mola di Gaeta. 
 Alas ! what changes has Rome undergone since the day on 
 which the Apostle trod the Appian way. How has gospel light 
 become dim. How unlike is the Christianity now professed 
 there, to that which had gained ground when he addressed his 
 admirable epistle "to all that be in Rome, beloved of God, 
 called to be saints." How deep must have been the emotion 
 of his energetic and heavenly mind, when toiling along the 
 Appian way, not only to make good his appeal to Caesar, but 
 also to visit the church which Divine grace had planted in 
 the heart of pagan Rome. - . -' 
 
 On the third day our passports arrived, and we hailed the 
 prospects of emancipation with great delight. We were soon 
 on the road to Fondi, having sent forward a messenger to 
 provide a carriage from thence to meet us at the Neapolitan 
 barrier. Our passports were sufficient, and we were at once 
 permitted to go on. Whether the general mendicity of the 
 people, or the mean rapacity of the Dogana, be the more 
 disgusting feature of this most wretched place, I cannot 
 quite determine. The looks of the professed mendicants, 
 and of the officers of the Dogana, were equally hungry 
 and wolfish. Having passed the examination of baggage, 
 and got free from the inquisitorial officials, we recom- 
 menced our route on the celebrated pass to Itri the 
 territory of Fra Diavolo, the once strong-hold of Brigandism; 
 and certainly, the very aspect of the road, thronged by 
 terrible associations of blood and rapine, is such as to 
 inspire dread and alarm, however safe it may have become in 
 later years. The pass lies through mountains, bare, bleak, 
 and rugged, which sometimes appear to hem in the traveller 
 on every side, and to cut off every avenue of escape from a 
 merciless banditti. Itri itself, the head quarters of Brigandism
 
 34 MOLA TOMB OF CICERO. 
 
 with its strong-hold, occupies a bold and commanding position, 
 and presents an appearance as wretched and degraded as 
 Fondi. 
 
 From Itri to Mola di Gaeta, the route was through the 
 most charming variety of rock and valley, clothed on all sides 
 with fine bold plantations of olives and vines, interspersed 
 with orange and lemon groves, enriched and heightened 
 in their tinting by the influence of a tempestuous sky, 
 from which ever and anon the sun burst forth with amazing 
 splendour and brilliancy of effect. The manner of cultivating 
 vines in Italy is very graceful. They are not trained in 
 the dwarf gooseberry-bush form of those in France, but 
 festooned from tree to tree. Mola di Gaeta is a lovely 
 spot, bathed by the waves of the Mediterranean. At a 
 short distance from Mola, on our right, we passed the 
 tomb of Cicero the erection of a manumitted slave who 
 loved his master, and cherished his memory, when the artfully 
 concealed blow of the cruel Antony and the dissimulating 
 Augustus had laid him in the dust of death. It was on 
 this spot, while on his way to a villa in the neighbourhood, 
 that he received the blow of the assassin. And though 
 Cicero was great enough to fill Rome with himself, yet 
 no friend, in any wise his equal, could be found, either 
 affectionate or daring enough to speak out from the marble 
 of the mausoleum, against the atrocity of his "taking off." 
 Two lessons we learn, while standing at the base of the 
 sepulchral memorial; the one is, the emptiness and danger 
 of the ambition which is of this world ; the other, the fallacy 
 of friendships which are not cemented by the love of God in 
 the heart. The former laid bare his bosom to the knife. The 
 latter directed, and gave terrible energy to the stroke. 
 
 At Mola di Gaeta we were in the midst of classic 
 ground ; the scene which the imaginative faculties of Homer, 
 Virgil, and Horace peopled with a race of heroes, gods, and 
 demi-gods, from whose vices, passions, and achievements, 
 the light and shade of the poetic page have been supplied.
 
 ST. AGATHA CAPUA NAPLES. 35 
 
 The dreams of fancy remain. The classic soil still breathes 
 of other days ; but the lyre of the poet is now silent as the 
 dust of the grave in which his ashes repose. Homer is a 
 name ; Virgil a name ; Horace a name ! 
 
 It was a bright April morning, which shed lustre upon the 
 whole picture, when we quitted Mola, on our way to Naples. 
 From Mola to St. Agatha, the route was charming, having on 
 the left, the chain of the Appennines with their snowy capes, 
 and on the right, the tideless Mediterranean, presenting 
 an aspect of sweet repose. The intermediate landscape 
 on either side is composed of olive grounds, vineyards, 
 and corn fields a lovely scene of fertility and abundance. 
 During this part of our journey, I observed for the first 
 time, the abundant growth of aloes of an immense size, 
 lining the hedge-rows, and spreading their broad bold leaves 
 in a majestic manner, giving a very peculiar character to the 
 landscape. 
 
 From St. Agatha to Capua, our route lay through a plain, 
 richly cultivated, and abounding in vineyards and corn fields, 
 as if the bounties of nature were lavished in profusion. Capua 
 is a fortified town, and a princedom; but alas, how filthy, 
 wretched, and squalid. Heartily glad were we, when the 
 wearisome repetition of police examination was over, and we 
 were permitted to make our way still onward over the plain 
 of vineyards and fields which lies beyond Capua. 
 
 It was on the fourth of April that we entered Naples 
 a spot of the earth so lovely, that it has exhausted the 
 powers of lyre, pen, and pencil. What can I say of it, in a 
 space so limited as that which it must needs occupy in 
 this small volume ? What need I say, when every form and 
 variety of expression has been used, to convey an idea of its 
 surpassing beauty? Earth, air, water, sky, cloud, flower, 
 foliage, light, shade, mountain, rock, valley, enriched with 
 associations classical and poetical, make up the enchanting 
 picture ! It is difficult to determine which is the most
 
 36 NAPLES. 
 
 attractive point of sight from which this wonderful scene is to 
 be viewed. If we ascend to the heights of the castle of St. 
 Elmo, and gaze down and around upon the rich and varied 
 panorama : or if from that point of the bay which commands 
 Vesuvius and its neighbouring campagna, we mark its own 
 bold sweep, the rich tintings of its Mediterranean waters, and 
 the varied grades of graceful and picturesque architecture 
 dome, spire, convent, and palace ; or still further, if we wander 
 round the bold and rocky promontory of Posilipo, with the 
 rich bay, and the noble and admonitory Vesuvius on our 
 left all, all is alike, admirable and charming. I have seen 
 much of nature's grandeur and loveliness, and much too that 
 is noble and elevated in art ; but in Naples, I found what I 
 have never elsewhere met with, in such a state of wondrous 
 and harmonious combination. 
 
 It needs a far more vigorous pencil than mine to sketch 
 even the outward portraiture of the people of Naples; and 
 who shall adequately depict the interior ? All that can arise 
 from the influence of climate buoyant spirits half-maddened 
 vivacity impetuous passions ; all that can result from local 
 associations picturesque fanciful capricious; and all too 
 that can proceed from such a civil government and such an 
 ecclesiastical system slavery, poverty, idleness, and moral 
 degradation, are too visible on the very surface of the human 
 current, as it ebbs and flows along the crowded avenues 
 of the restless city.' The whole population of Naples gives 
 the idea of immortal creatures forced into a delusive miscalcu- 
 lation upon the purposes of existence ; and who, contrary to 
 all evidence, have come to the conclusion, that gratification 
 is the business of life, and that life and its prospects are 
 compressible into a day. It would be difficult to associate 
 the idea of a recognised responsibility with the aspect of a 
 Neapolitan population. One would think that the almost 
 only two faculties of the mind which they actively employ are 
 the imagination and the memory ; the former heightening the 
 excitements of the present moment the latter stimulating 
 the causes of excitement. Alas ! they are moral agents, yet
 
 MONTE POSILIPO VIRGIL'S TOMB. 37 
 
 without true freedom ; and nominally Christian, yet without 
 Christ. Their freedom is but an evasive licentiousness. 
 Their Christianity is the pageant of a depraved and fallen 
 church. While my memory is filled with glowing pictures 
 of the loveliness of Naples, my heart sickens at the idea 
 of its moral degradation, which lies like a deep alluvion 
 formed by the endless ebb and flow of human passions, corrupt 
 systems, unbridled carnality and godless destitution. What 
 human depravity, under the reign of paganism began it has 
 abundantly finished under the dominion of the papacy. 
 Whatever may be the material for the regenerative influence 
 of true religion to work upon, in the heart of the Neapolitans, 
 I know not : but certainly, nothing would more fully prove the 
 omnipotence of grace from on high, than the emancipation 
 of such a people from their present debasement, and the 
 uplifting of them to the true dignity of the children of God. 
 But I forbear to dwell on this subject. 
 
 Having occupied a suitable time in forming some idea 
 of the interior of Naples, we set out for some of its environs. 
 Amongst the first objects of interest was the promontory 
 of Posilipo, and the adjacent localities. We commenced our 
 route by the way leading towards Puzzuoli and Baiae ; and 
 found just on this side of the subterranean road or tunnel, 
 hewn in the solid rock of Posilipo, the structure usually 
 given in prints and drawings, as the tomb of the Bard 
 of Mantua. But on reading the inscription, and examining 
 the structure, we found it was not so ancient ; that in fact, it 
 was the monument of an admiring modern age, rather than 
 the tomb of Virgil. The tomb, we ascertained to be above 
 on the rock itself. Proceeding along the subterranean road, 
 we met with a young Cicerone a ragged Neapolitan elf, who 
 led us by the delightful route over the Monte Posilipo, amidst 
 vineyards and orchards of fig trees. At every step, some new 
 and lovely scene presented itself robed in that most magical 
 combination of light and shade so common in this enchanting 
 country. At length, after commanding one of the most 
 superb views of Naples and its magnificent bay, we began to
 
 38 VIRGIL'S TOMB PUZZUOLI. 
 
 descend a little, and by degrees came to a spot, which might 
 well have been selected by the Poet as the place of repose for 
 his ashes. Though the silver cord shall be loosed, and the 
 golden bowl be broken, and the pitcher be broken at the 
 fountain, and the wheel broken at the cistern ; and though 
 the dust shall return to the earth as it was, and the spirit 
 shall return to the God who gave it ; though the grave shall 
 be the abode of darkness, forgetfulness, and of loathsome 
 corruption ; yet there is something charming in the way of 
 anticipation however unusual the object of anticipation may 
 be to lay our bones in a spot where the loveliness of nature 
 is lavished as if to gaze upon it, out from the portals of the 
 dark chamber, though debarred from all connection with the 
 stirring interests and pursuits of human life. And thus the 
 imaginative faculty of man carries a vague idea of consciousness 
 and perceptiveness into the silence and solitude and forgetful- 
 ness of death. The remains of the Poet's tomb are but scanty, 
 and consist of a small chamber of about twelve feet square, 
 formed of rude stones on the exterior, and entered by a low 
 arch, and lighted also by a similar one on the opposite side. 
 Round the walls of the interior, are niches, in which have 
 been deposited urns containing the ashes of the dead. The 
 whole structure is of rough Roman masonry, gracefully 
 overhung by a ponderous spreading branch of the Ilex, or 
 evergreen oak a chaplet woven and bestowed by nature in 
 her poetic mood. The chaplet is as fresh and as green as 
 the Poet's fame. The tomb itself looks, as it were, far abroad 
 upon the bay of Naples towards those waters on which the 
 eye of genius so often rested, as if he and they were to grow 
 old together. The one has passed away. The others remain, 
 with all the weight of years, but yet with the freshness 
 of youth, upon them. 
 
 I was anxious to visit Puzzuoli the "Puteoli" at which 
 St. Paul arrived, when, having "fetched a compass" from 
 Syracuse and come to Rhegium, the south-western breeze 
 bore him onwards to the Italian shore. 1 At length, my eyes 
 
 ' Actsxxviii 1113.
 
 PUZZUOLI BAI^E ANCIENT REMAINS. 39 
 
 rested on the honoured spot; and, reviewing the course of my 
 journey from Rome partly along the Appian way, I was 
 enabled to recall the scenes through which the great Apostle 
 passed, pressing onwards to the "eternal city" a prisoner 
 in the hands of a Roman Centurion a fearless witness of the 
 "faith once delivered to the saints." Ages have rolled by 
 governments have flourished and decayed, and dynasties have 
 crumbled ; yet, amidst the wreck two things have remained 
 permanent; the track of the Apostle's journey in the cause 
 of eternal truth, and the record of his apostleship, written in 
 pages of living light by the finger of the Spirit of God. 
 
 Puzzuoli is now an insignificant town, as viewed at a little 
 distance. Its inhabitants are very generally occupied in 
 fishing. In the immediate neighbourhood are the remains of a 
 temple of Jupiter Serapis, many parts of which are in good 
 preservation, and convey a pure idea of its original beauty. 
 Indeed, the remains of ancient Rome, in the immediate 
 neighbourhood, are all deeply interesting to the antiquary, the 
 poet and the philosopher. Proceeding onwards from Puzzuoli, 
 we reached Baiae, the site of so many villas in the palmy days 
 of Rome, when luxurious indulgence sought to vary and 
 multiply its transient delights, which drew from Horace 
 the sarcastic remark, that the Romans, not content with their 
 own inland territory, sought to grasp the possessions of the 
 ocean. In our way, we particularly noticed the remains of a 
 villa of Cicero, remarkable for being the spot in which he 
 composed his " Qurestiones Academics." The wing of genius 
 had been expanded there; and now what is left? The 
 broken arch, the ruined wall, and the mere echo of a name as 
 immortal as genius could make it. Not far from this ruin, 
 are those of the villas of Julius Cassar and Nero. Caesar, 
 Nero, and their palaces, are alike dust. Time's wing has 
 swept away the mighty and the cruel ; and a "has been " is 
 all that can be said of either. Oh, what a dream is human 
 existence, when viewed through the retrospective vista of long 
 past years.
 
 40 CARMELITE MONASTERY. 
 
 The baths of Nero are still remaining ; and the peculiar 
 feature of them is, that they are supplied with naturally boiling 
 water, the product of the volcanic soil, lying at the more 
 distant parts of long and low passages bored in the solid rock. 
 So high is the temperature of these springs, that eggs are 
 easily boiled by being put into a bucket and immersed 
 below the surface. We found the temperature far too high 
 to admit of our proceeding to the extremity; and, indeed, 
 the attendant at the baths returned with eggs boiled, and 
 dripping with perspiration from every pore. At Baiae, also, 
 we found the lake Averno, the fabled mouth of the infernal 
 regions; and also the famous Sybill's cave of Cuma. The 
 former is but little calculated at present to stimulate the 
 imaginative faculty, whatever may be said for the latter, to 
 which we were conducted through long subterraneous passages, 
 illuminated by torch-light ; and at length were fairly borne 
 through water on the backs of our guides to the very secret 
 recess of the Sybill's chamber. 
 
 During our stay in Naples, we availed ourselves of an 
 opportunity of visiting the monastery of Carmelites, situated 
 just below the heights of the castle of St. Elmo. The monks 
 were at vespers when we arrived; yet we were readily 
 admitted, and proceeded direct to the church, where we 
 found some very fine and effective specimens of fresco 
 painting and rich marbles. The principal altar abounds in 
 precious stones. We afterwards walked round the cloisters, 
 in the centre of which is a small square burial ground, with 
 little wooden crosses about a foot in height, just serving to 
 mark the spots in which are deposited the ashes of men who 
 have worn out their small allotment of days in the sad and 
 withering inactivity of monastic uselessness. It was a humbling 
 picture. We entered several cells which were remarkable 
 more for their bad odour and want of cleanliness, than for 
 anything else. Their furniture was poor and scanty, and 
 gave but a slender notion of comfort in any particular. In 
 one cell lay an aged monk in bed, sick and helpless. My 
 heart longed to be able to set before him Christ Jesus and
 
 ST. JANUARIUS NAPLES POPERY. 41 
 
 him crucified apart from the lumber of the church of which 
 he was a member ; and it was sad to be obliged to leave him 
 with the darkness of death and error about him. But there 
 was no help for it. 
 
 We made a point of visiting as many as possible of the 
 Churches of Naples, in which, however, we found nothing 
 worthy of being compared with those of Rome. At the 
 Cathedral the patron saint of which is St. Januarius, 
 (whose congealed blood, preserved in a phial, is said to 
 undergo several annual miraculous liquefactions ! ) we spent 
 an hour agreeably, however painfully the superstitions of a 
 corrupt church acted upon the mind. The general effect of the 
 structure is solemn and satisfying ; and the statue of the 
 patron saint, surmounting the high altar, is very effective. The 
 Chapel beneath the altar is extremely curious. We were 
 conducted to it by some of the inferior ecclesiastics, bearing 
 lighted wax tapers. In it we were shewn the sarcophagus in 
 which the remains of the saint are said to be deposited, as a 
 distinguished object of sacred veneration ; but the ecclesiastics 
 who attended us appeared far more anxious to receive our 
 money, than to magnify the sanctity of their patron saint. 
 Perhaps they were wise enough to suppose that any efforts 
 for that purpose would be sadly lost upon two heretics, 
 such as they must have deemed us to be. They were very 
 thankful on the receipt of half a ducat ; indeed they seemed 
 almost amazed at receiving so much. The clergy and monks 
 of all orders swarm about the streets, and loiter in and about 
 the churches. Idleness is the order of the day ; and then, 
 the too common filthiness of their persons awakens disgust in 
 all who have been accustomed to better things at home. 
 
 In Naples, the symbols of religion the material objects 
 of superstition meet the traveller at every turn. We noticed, 
 particularly in the evening, when the shops were lighted up, 
 that in almost all I think I might safely say, in every 
 one, at the further end, there is to be seen either a picture 
 or small statue of the Virgin, illuminated by lamps or
 
 42 PURGATORY POMPEII. 
 
 candles and more or less of these, according to the 
 wealth or poverty of the people who are owners of them. 
 And in almost every street, something like this is also 
 visible. It is a common thing also to see fresco paintings 
 on the walls, intended to represent souls in the flames 
 of purgatory, with angels hovering over them ; while beneath, 
 are inscriptions imploring money money, for the Church, 
 to secure her aid in the way of masses; and then there 
 is a little box in which the devout and pious may drop 
 their contributions in aid not really of souls in purgatory, 
 but, of the cause of superstition and ecclesiastical rapacity. 
 Though doubtless the great bulk of the Neapolitan populace 
 are perfectly indifferent to such things, yet there are some 
 with whom such disgusting daubs and craving solicitations 
 have their weight and influence. The doctrine of purgatory 
 and the practice of masses for the dead, are amongst the most 
 profitable traffic of the papacy. It would be curious, though 
 revolting and distressing to the Christian mind, to see an 
 accurate return of the annual produce of impostures such as 
 these in Roman Catholic countries. 
 
 We could not leave Naples without making a visit to Mount 
 Vesuvius and Pompeii. The route lies through Portici and 
 Torre del Greco, and is altogether destitute of picturesque 
 objects. The distance to Pompeii is about twelve English 
 miles. It was in the year seventy-nine of the Christian era, 
 that the destruction of this celebrated abode of Roman vice 
 and luxury was effected by a terrible eruption of Mount 
 Vesuvius. Evidences, too conclusive, of the degraded state 
 of the Roman mind, are abundantly visible in the various 
 articles discovered during the labour of excavation, which 
 has been progressing for many years. Some of these still 
 remain in the form of fresco paintings on the walls; and 
 multitudes of other kinds are deposited in the Museo Borbonico. 
 Next to the destruction of Sodom and Gomorrah there has 
 never, perhaps, been a more signal and just retribution than 
 that which overtook the luxuriously debased and brutalized 
 inhabitants of Pompeii. It was when the cup of iniquity was
 
 POMPEII ASCENT OF VESUVIUS. 43 
 
 overflowing its brim, and daring licentiousness was at its 
 height, that the wrath of God descended in the burning streams 
 of Vesuvius. And the discoveries which have been the result 
 of laborious excavation, most distinctly shew, not only the 
 general habits and character of the people, but exhibit them 
 in their very pursuits and occupations, at the moment when 
 the tempest of divine fury burst over them, and engulphed 
 their city in rivers of liquid and scorching lava. The streets 
 of Pompeii are still as fresh as if they had been in use but 
 yesterday; the track of chariot wheels is every where to be 
 seen ; while on the walls, and over the door-ways of houses 
 and shops, are to be read inscriptions notices advertise- 
 ments, and other indications of activity and enterprize, of 
 amusement and indulgence, of idleness and depravity. The 
 temples, amphitheatre, and private residences convey a distinct 
 idea of the manners and habits of the Roman people eighteen 
 centuries ago; while the articles of domestic furniture and 
 ornament of luxury and ease, still preserved in the museum, 
 shew that, at that distance of time, human nature in its 
 tendencies and pursuits was much the same as it is now in 
 the nineteenth century. What gives so peculiar an interest 
 to this remarkable scene, is the fact, that instead of being a 
 Roman habitation evacuated of its inhabitants, and left to ruin 
 and decay, it presents, as it were, a petrified reality of men 
 and things as they existed in their day a synopsis of Rome 
 in the first century of the Christian era. It is like a city of the 
 dead, arousing itself to give testimony concerning the living 
 who have passed away, as if they had never been. Every stone 
 is admonitory ; and every marble utters a homily to the men 
 of the present generation, whose footsteps break the silence 
 of this scene of death and awful devastation. Looking upwards 
 from Pompeii to Vesuvius, the picture is still alarming. 
 The mountain yet threatens; while the indurated streams 
 of lava which are incrusted on its sides, present a lasting 
 memorial of terror. 
 
 Preparatory to making the ascent of Vesuvius, we proceeded 
 from Pompeii to the little town of Resina, and took up our
 
 44 VESUVIUS. 
 
 abode at a rude Albergo, from whence guides and all other 
 needful matters are obtained, for visiting the terrific mountain. 
 Here we procured a homely evening refreshment, with a 
 bottle of wine produced from the vineyards which skirt 
 Vesuvius. We lay down for a few hours of repose in a 
 miserable apartment, awaiting the promised summons of our 
 guide, who undertook to be in readiness at two o'clock in 
 the morning, with torches, in order that we might reach 
 the crater before the beams of the rising sun should diminish, 
 by their admixture, the effect of the volcanic fires. We 
 commenced the ascent soon after the hour appointed. The 
 morning was very favourable, and not too warm. We had 
 resolved to perform the whole expedition on foot, though 
 both our guide and host strongly urged us to take a 
 supply of mules as far as animals could be of service ; and 
 assured us that the ascent would occupy three hours at the 
 least. For the first two hours the road was not by any means 
 difficult. It is a circuitous and gentle ascent, though rough 
 with loose stones and rocky incrustations of lava rendered 
 often inconvenient by the darkness, and the uncertain flickering 
 light of the torches. At the expiration of the two first hours 
 we reached the base of the crater, when the real difficulty and 
 labour of the journey commenced. Our guide assured us 
 that the ascent to the summit would not occupy more 
 than an hour if we could but keep ourselves braced up 
 to the undertaking. This part of the affair is usually 
 performed on foot, being impracticable for mules. We made a 
 pause of a few minutes for rest ; and then fairly gave ourselves 
 the task. The ascent of the crater is almost perpendicular, 
 over a succession of sometimes loose and sometimes substantial 
 and solid lava. There is no regular path. We were therefore 
 obliged to select our footing with the greatest care. . The 
 labour of ascending was very great, and at times almost 
 discouraging. Again and again we paused to take breath, 
 while our guide repeatedly cried out in English, "Come 
 on courage courage ;" and at length, jaded and worn, at 
 the expiration of another hour, or thereabouts, we found 
 ourselves on the brink of the crater. Folding my cloak
 
 VESUVIUS. 45 
 
 about me, I lay down for a few minutes upon the warm lava, 
 and soon recovered myself. We arose, and proceeded ; and 
 from the mouth of the crater into which we were enabled to 
 look down, flame and smoke were issuing abundantly, rendered 
 more strikingly visible by the dim twilight before sunrise in 
 which we viewed it. - The scene which now presented itself was 
 awfully grand, wild, and savage. The whole surface about the 
 crater seemed ready at any moment to burst forth with its 
 wonted terror, and was covered with sulphur and pummice- 
 stones. On one side of the edge, looking towards the remains 
 of Pompeii, our guide began to agitate the sulphurous material 
 with his walking staff, which soon emitted sparks, and 
 then broke into a vivid flame. There was a hideous and 
 suspicious aspect about the whole, which made a deep 
 impression on my mind ; and when I recollected the fearful 
 devastation which this volcano had occasioned in other days, 
 and saw how the secret work of combustion was still actively 
 proceeding, I felt, to a degree most difficult to describe 
 my dependance upon the mercy and compassion of God, 
 in whose hand alone is lodged the power of controling 
 and restraining, as well as of making actively destructive, the 
 terrible apparatus by which we were surrounded, and whose 
 unfathomed mysteries lay beneath our feet. 
 
 The sun rose magnificently, and bathed in its early light 
 the snow-clad Apennines, touching every part also of the 
 surrounding landscape, including the city and bay of Naples, 
 and the silent desolation of Pompeii. And how terribly did 
 it exhibit to us the broad current of lava which had poured 
 downwards to the plain in which that devoted city was 
 placed. Perhaps it is not easy to find a scene more terrific 
 in its general character than this, when coupled with a full 
 idea of the extent of devastation connected with it, and when 
 looked upon as likely at any time to pour forth the fierce 
 streams of destruction on the surrounding and defenceless 
 population. Having satisfied our curiosity in reference to 
 Mount Vesuvius, we commenced our descent by a route 
 different from that by which we ascended, and it was not
 
 46 PROCESSION OF THE "HOST." 
 
 without some fatigue and difficulty that we accomplished it. 
 It is very curious to see the vineyards skirting the dread 
 mountain, connecting at once the idea of cultivation and 
 fertility with the utmost development of aridity and desolation. 
 
 The brief period which we had allotted to Naples was 
 now expired ; and we were anxious to be on our way for 
 Alexandria as soon as circumstances would admit. It was 
 the sixteenth of April, when a messenger announced that 
 the steamer on which we depended, was in sight, in her 
 course from Genoa and Leghorn, and would be in port in 
 about an hour. This was between six and seven in the 
 morning. On the arrival of the vessel, we learnt that she 
 would not resume her course till about noon. We had time 
 left for a little further examination of the externals of Naples. 
 While sitting at the window of our hotel, after breakfast, 
 suddenly I saw the crowd in the street stand still, as if pre- 
 paring for some interesting scene. One put down his bucket, 
 another his water jars, a third his itinerant merchandize. The 
 business of Neapolitan life seemed for a moment to be all 
 checked, and the mass of the people were immediately on 
 their knees in the dust of the broad highway. A dead silence 
 soon pervaded the whole. I guessed at once what it was. 
 A procession of the " host" was in sight. It was the first and 
 only occasion I met with, of seeing a ceremony so common as 
 this in Roman Catholic countries. The procession consisted 
 of ecclesiastics, followed by many of the laity, and was passing 
 along a side street in sight of those who were in the main 
 one. As soon as the procession had passed, the silence was 
 broken ; the pursuits of daily life were resumed ; and men, 
 women, and children again jostled together, apparently 
 forgetful that any thing deemed sacred had for a moment 
 occupied their attention, or suspended their activity. 
 
 It was about noon when we embarked on board the 
 Scamandre. We were soon under weigh, and had for our 
 companions a motley group of English, French, Italians, and 
 Greeks, with a considerable allowance of priests, a Franciscan
 
 SICILY SCYLLA AND CHARYBDIS. 47 
 
 monk, and four sisters of charity. The view of Naples and 
 its superb bay, with the Isle of Capri on the right, was 
 indescribably beautiful, as we bade farewell to this spot of the 
 earth on which so much of nature's treasure has been lavished. 
 A few hours, and Naples had vanished in the distance. A 
 lovely moonlight night kept me on deck to a late hour ; and 
 on the following morning, by about eight o'clock, the coast 
 of Sicily was in sight ; and at length the eye rested on the 
 snowy peak of Mount Etna. In the foreground, towards the 
 right, was Stromboli, emitting smoke and a small quantity 
 of fire, though but slightly visible in the light of the early 
 morning. We made our way at an easy rate over a placid 
 sea, towards the straits of Messina, and soon were sailing 
 between Scylla and Charybdis, the former of which is a 
 rock of no very large dimensions, on the coast of Italy; 
 the latter a supposed whirlpool on the Sicilian side of the 
 channel. Scylla and Charybdis, according to the fables of the 
 poets, were two sea monsters, whose dreadful jaws were 
 continually distended to swallow unhappy mariners. But, 
 foregoing any particular reference to the fictions of poets, I 
 rather present the following more interesting particulars, 
 selected from the narrative of a visit made to this celebrated 
 spot by the Abbe Lazzaro Spallanzani, of Pavia. 
 
 "I first proceeded," says the Abbe, "in a small boat to 
 Scylla. This is a lofty rock, distant twelve miles from 
 Messina, and rises almost perpendicularly from the sea, on 
 the shore of Calabria, and beyond which, is the small city 
 of the same name. Though there was scarcely any wind, I 
 began to hear, two miles before I came to the rock, a murmur 
 and noise, like the confused barking of dogs, and, on a nearer 
 approach, readily discovered the cause. This rock, in its 
 lower parts, contains a number of caverns, one of the largest 
 of which is called by the people there, Dragara. The waves, 
 when in the least agitated, rushing into these caverns, break, 
 dash, and throw up frothy bubbles, and thus occasion these 
 varied and multiplied sounds. I then perceived with how 
 much truth and resemblance of nature Homer and Virgil, in
 
 48 SCYLLA. 
 
 their personifications of Scylla, had portrayed this scene, by 
 describing the monster they drew, as lurking in the darkness 
 of a vast cavern, surrounded by ravenous barking mastiffs and 
 wolves." 
 
 "Such is the appearance of Scylla. Let us now consider 
 the danger it occasions to mariners. Though the tide is 
 almost imperceptible in the open parts of the Mediterranean, 
 it is very strong in the straits of Messina, in consequence 
 of the narrowness of the channel ; and is regulated, as in other 
 places, by the periodical elevations and depressions of the 
 water. When the flow or current is accompanied by a wind 
 blowing the same way, vessels have nothing to fear, since 
 they either do not enter the strait, both the wind and the 
 stream opposing them, but cast anchor at the entrance ; or 
 if both are favourable, enter in full sail, and pass through with 
 such rapidity, that they seem to fly over the water. But, 
 when the current runs from south to north, and the north 
 wind blows hard at the same time, the ship which expected 
 easily to pass the strait with the wind in its stern, on its 
 entering the channel is resisted by the opposite current, and 
 impelled by two forces in contrary directions, is at length 
 dashed on the rock of Scylla, or driven on the neighbouring 
 sands, unless the pilot shall apply for the succour necessary 
 for his preservation. In order to give assistance, in the case 
 of such accidents, twenty-four of the strongest, boldest and 
 most experienced sailors, well acquainted with the place, are 
 stationed night and day along the shores of Messina, who, at 
 the report of guns fired as signals of distress from any vessel, 
 hasten to its assistance, and tow it with one of their light 
 boats. The current, where it is strongest, does not extend 
 over the whole strait, but winds through it in intricate 
 meanders, with the course of which these men are perfectly 
 acquainted, and are thus able to guide the ship in such a 
 manner as to avoid it. Should the pilot, however, confiding 
 in his own skill, contemn or neglect this assistance, however 
 great his ability or experience, he would run the most 
 imminent risk of being shipwrecked. In this agitation and
 
 CHARYBDIS. 49 
 
 conflict of the waters forced one way by the current, and 
 driven in a contrary direction by the wind, it is useless to 
 throw the line to discover the depth of the bottom, the 
 violence of the current frequently carrying the lead almost 
 on the surface of the water. The very strongest cables break 
 like small cords. Should two or three anchors be thrown 
 out, the bottom is so rocky that they either take no hold, or 
 if they should, are soon loosened by the violence of the waves. 
 Every expedient afforded by the art of navigation, though it 
 might succeed in saving a ship in other parts of the Mediter- 
 ranean, or even the tremendous ocean, is useless here. 
 
 " Charybdis is situated within the strait, in that part of the 
 sea which lies between a projection of the land named Punta 
 Secca, and another projection on which stands the tower 
 Lanterna, or the lighthouse, a light being placed at its top, 
 to guide vessels which may enter the harbour by night. On 
 consulting the authors, who have written on Charybdis, we 
 find that they all suppose it to be a whirlpool. The first who 
 asserted this was Homer, who represented it as a monster, 
 which three times a day drank up the water, and as often 
 vomited it forth." 
 
 "Charybdis is distant from the shore of Messina about 
 seven hundred and fifty feet, and is called by the people of the 
 country, Calofaro, not from the agitation of the waves, as 
 some have supposed, but from KaXos (beautiful) and 0a/>os (a 
 tower) that is, the beautiful tower, from the lighthouse erected 
 near it, for the guidance of vessels. The phenomenon of the 
 Calofaro is observable when the current is descending ; for 
 when the current sets in from the north, the pilots call it the 
 descending rema or current ; and when it runs from the south, 
 the ascending rema. The current ascends or descends at the 
 rising or setting of the moon, and continues for six hours. In 
 the interval between each ascent and descent, there is a calm, 
 which lasts at least for a quarter of an hour, and not longer 
 than an hour. Afterwards, at the rising or setting of the 
 moon, the current enters from the north, making various
 
 50 CHARYBDIS. 
 
 angles of incidence with the shore, and at length reaches the 
 Calofaro. This delay sometimes continues for two hours. 
 Sometimes it immediately falls into the Calofaro, and then, 
 as experience has taught, it is a certain token of bad weather. 
 When I observed Charybdis from the shore, it appeared like 
 a group of tumultuous waters, which as I approached became 
 more extensive and more agitated. I was carried to the edge, 
 where I stopped some time to make the requisite observations, 
 and was then convinced, beyond the shadow of a doubt, that what 
 I saw was by no means a vortex or whirlpool. Hydrologists 
 teach us, that by a whirlpool in a running water, we are to 
 understand that circular course which it takes in certain 
 circumstances ; and that this course or revolution generates in 
 the middle, a hollow inverted cone, of a greater or less depth, 
 the internal sides of which have a spiral motion. But I 
 perceived nothing of this kind in the Calofaro. Its revolving 
 motion was circumscribed to a circle of, at most, one hundred 
 feet in diameter; within which limits there was no incurvation 
 of any kind, nor vertiginous motion, but an incessant undula- 
 tion of agitated waters, which rose, fell, beat and dashed upon 
 each other. Yet these irregular motions were so far placid, 
 that nothing was to be feared in passing over the spot, which 
 I did. I could not, therefore, but conclude, that at that time 
 there was no whirlpool I say at that time, since the case 
 might be very different when the sea is tempestuous. I 
 therefore made inquiry relative to this of the pilots, those 
 especially, who, from their tried experience, were appointed 
 to give assistance in storms to foreign vessels, and who had 
 frequently seen Charybdis in its greatest fury. The following 
 is the substance of the answers they gave me. When the 
 wind and the current are contrary to each other, and both in 
 their greatest violence, especially when the south wind blows, 
 the swelling and dashing of the waves within the Calofaro is 
 much stronger, more impetuous, and more extensive. It 
 contains three or four small whirlpools, or more, according to 
 the greatness of its extent or violence. If at this time small 
 vessels are driven into the Calofaro by the current or the wind, 
 they are seen to wheel round, rock and plunge ; but are never
 
 RHEGIUM SYRACUSE MALTA. 51 
 
 drawn down into the vortex. They only sink when filled 
 with water by the waves beating over them. When vessels 
 of a larger size are forced into it, whatever wind they have, 
 they cannot extricate themselves ; then sails are useless, and 
 after having been for some time tossed about by the waves, 
 if they are not assisted by the pilots of the country, who know 
 how to bring them out of the force of the current, they are 
 furiously driven upon the neighbouring shore of the Lanterna, 
 where they are helplessly wrecked." 1 This then may serve to 
 give some idea of Scylla and Charybdis. 
 
 It was night when we neared Rhegium and Syracuse 
 spots on which I would fain have gazed, as connected with 
 the journey of St. Paul towards Eome; 2 but there was no 
 help for our being obliged thus to pass them in darkness. 
 
 It was early in the morning of the eighteenth of April, 
 when we were awakened with the announcement that Malta 
 was in sight ; and by nine o'clock, we were safely in harbour, 
 in the midst of British vessels, amongst which was the 
 splendid new man of war "The Queen." The first view 
 of Malta is picturesque enough, and bears much of an Italian 
 aspect. It is altogether destitute of foliage, and gives an idea 
 of distressing exposure to the sun. After obtaining pratique, 
 or permission to land, from the quarantine authorities, we 
 rowed ashore, and transferred our baggage to the vessel 
 intended to convey us to Syra, which was appointed to 
 sail at about one o'clock. But little time therefore was 
 allowed us for getting a glance at Malta, which is quite 
 a cosmopolite city, wherein people of all climes and kindred 
 meet you at every turn. The cathedral is accounted a fine 
 structure, but we had not time to examine it, nor the small 
 church dedicated to St. Paul, said to be. placed on the spot 
 where he shook off the viper into the fire without injury, 3 
 after his shipwreck. 
 
 1 Spallanzani's Travels in the Two Sicilies ; Vol. 4, p. 168. Nich. Jour II. 12. 
 2 Acts xxviii. 12, 13. 3 Acts xxviii. 1 6.
 
 52 SEA-STORM. 
 
 Soon after one o'clock, on the eighteenth of April, we 
 embarked on board " The Dante," an ill-appointed and filthy 
 French steamer : but there was no alternative, and we were 
 obliged to submit. I could not help calling it " Dante's 
 Inferno" We had on board a small party of Oxonians, bound 
 for the shores of Greece; and besides these, an admixture 
 of French, Romans, Greeks, and Turks. When we had been 
 under weigh about four hours, the machinery was sadly out 
 of order ; and it was feared that we should be obliged to put 
 back. The French are execrable engineers ; and never 
 have I seen engines in such a condition as these were. The 
 mischief was remedied in some degree yet not so as to give 
 me the least confidence of safety. We made way, however, 
 without any further cause for alarm, though during the night 
 the wind was rather boisterous. The next morning broke with 
 indications of rough weather, which increased upon us ; and 
 at length I was familiarized with the terrors of the sea. I 
 here transcribe from my journal, what I penned down at the 
 time after one of the most perilous and trying incidents of my 
 life. I desire to retain, and to convey to others, the exact 
 impressions which it made upon me. 
 
 " April twenty-first. I sit down to my journal this morning 
 with a heart filled with gratitude to Almighty God for special 
 mercies received, in a scene of awful peril. Oh ! that I may 
 remember his wondrous loving-kindness and forbearance, to 
 the latest day of my existence ! I feel at this moment that 
 I have been snatched by an almighty hand when human 
 strength could not help me from the jaws of death. I 
 have had abundant proof that God is a prayer -hearing and 
 prayer-answering God ; and that even ' the winds and the sea 
 obey Him.' The night of Tuesday, the nineteenth instant, 
 was rough and gusty ; but yet, there was nothing about it to 
 occasion the least immediate anxiety. I went to my cabin 
 and slept soundly. The morning dawned with a threatening 
 aspect ; and soon after breakfast the storm, which had been 
 stirring during the night, gained head and broke upon us. 
 Its violence increased every hour, until it became terrific.
 
 SEA-STORM. 53 
 
 Our little bark was but like a shell upon the whelming 
 waters. Sometimes we were well-nigh buried in the ocean- 
 depths on one side, while their surges broke over us ; and it 
 seemed as if we must be engulphed by the suction of the 
 angry billows. Then we were tossed up and down, till the 
 vessel appeared almost as if standing on its head and stern 
 alternately. I had often heard of seas running ' mountains 
 high;' but I had never witnessed anything like the scene 
 which now surrounded me. For twenty hours, that is, from 
 nine o'clock yesterday morning till five this morning, I 
 watched the fearful storm ; and during the anxious hours of the 
 long night, I remained for the most part on deck, watching 
 almost every wave as it swelled and glistened in the subdued 
 and fitful moonbeams of the midnight. It was a trying time. 
 All the other passengers but one, shut themselves into their 
 berths; and he who remained on deck, lay along on the 
 bare planks, and buried his head in his cloak. I held as fast 
 as possible by the small rigging near the pilot's wheel ; but 
 twice I was dashed upon the deck, while the sea broke over, 
 and drenched me to the skin. How slowly how drearily 
 the long, long hours lingered by. I thought of home of my 
 dear family my beloved flock, and every familiar scene 
 of home and of home-pursuits and occupations. I summoned 
 them, as it were, into my presence. Imagination was pain- 
 fully busy. I seemed to hold communion with those I loved, 
 and who loved me and who little thought of the perils 
 by which I was surrounded. They, I hoped, were in comfort 
 and safety, and had borne me on their hearts at the 
 throne of grace, before retiring to their midnight rest. I was 
 alone as it seemed in the drear hour of darkness on the 
 wide ocean, in a frail bark, with sailors in whom I had no 
 confidence ; and perhaps, I felt, the end of all earthly things 
 was at hand with me. On analyzing my feelings I cannot 
 exactly say that it was fear, but it certainly was apprehension, 
 which at length gained such full mastery over my mind 
 filling it with terrible imagery as to bind me to its will, and 
 keep me nervously and sensitively awake, while grasping 
 the rope nearest at hand to prevent my being washed
 
 54 SEA-STORM. 
 
 overboard by the surges. Now and then, I crawled down the 
 cabin stairs, and by the light of a solitary lamp drew comfort 
 from the precious pages of God's holy word. A dear friend, 
 writing to me just before I quitted home, had expressed 
 a hope that I might realize the comfort set forth in the 
 ninety -first Psalm. I turned to the golden passage; and 
 never before did I feel, as I then felt, its force and power. 
 It seemed as though penned for me alone; and as if divine 
 mercy and love were speaking to me in it. Turning over 
 my bible, at another time, my eye rested on Lamentations 
 iii. 22 26 : ' It is of the Lord's mercies that we are not 
 consumed, because his compassions fail not. They are new 
 every morning : great is thy faithfulness. The Lord is my 
 portion, saith my soul ; therefore will I hope in him. The 
 Lord is good unto them that wait for him, to the soul that 
 seeketh him. It is good that a man should both hope and 
 quietly wait for the salvation of the Lord.' From these 
 portions of scripture, my mind derived the sweetest serenity, 
 peace, and assurance. My soul was lifted up to God in hearty 
 and confiding prayer ; and though death seemed still to be 
 spreading his dark pinions over me, yet, ere long, all appre- 
 hension passed away even while the storm continued to 
 rage wildly and horribly. I stood calmly awaiting the issue. 
 Self-dependance and self-confidence, I had none. All was 
 sought and found in God my covenant-keeping God. Such 
 a process as my mind and heart underwent, accompanied by 
 such a result, amply compensated all the trial I endured. I 
 certainly had all along expected that the frail and crazy 
 engines, or some part of the cracking and groaning vessel, 
 must give way under the violence and heaviness of the sea. 
 At length the moon struggled forth, and gave a partial 
 illumination to the scene : but it only served to exhibit more 
 awfully the stupendous magnitude of the waves which were 
 singing and howling and hissing malignantly around us 
 while, by the rapid action of the vessel from side to side, the 
 moon itself seemed to plunge and dart from side to side 
 of the firmament, overhung with dark and threatening clouds. 
 In the midst of all that was terrible, I was struck by the
 
 SEA-STORM ZANTE. 55 
 
 beautiful exhibition of phosphoric light which played upon 
 the waves as they were met by the paddles of the vessel. 
 Sheets of light-blue flame of great magnitude sometimes shot 
 forth, and were so bright that I could have read by them with 
 ease, had they been steadily prolonged. Then the course 
 of our vessel was tracked by innumerable spangles of the same 
 phosphoric glare. Silence prevailed. Not a voice, even of the 
 shipmen, was heard j and the pilot fixed at his post, plied his 
 arduous task. At five o'clock this morning the day dawned, 
 and the change of scene brought with it a considerable 
 diminution of sea and wind ; and soon every indication of safety 
 was mercifully afforded. Greatly worn and excited by the 
 terrors of the preceding day and night, I went down to my 
 berth, flung myself on my bed ; and though the vessel was 
 still rocking and pitching, yet I fell instantly into a sound 
 sleep for an hour or two. I awoke refreshed, and with my 
 heart filled with unutterable gratitude to my heavenly Father, 
 for mercies so great and eminent. Oh ! that my future days 
 may be consecrated entirely to his service. 
 
 At about ten o'clock we descried land on our left. We 
 had been, like Saint Paul, " driven up and down in 
 Adria;" 1 and instead of being amidst the islands of the 
 Archipelago, of which Syra, the immediate point of destination, 
 is one, we found ourselves far up in the Adriatic, but bearing 
 down in a south-easterly direction. The land on our left 
 proved to be Zante. 
 
 Turning to the narrative of St. Paul's shipwreck, and con- 
 sulting the chart carefully, it became a deeply interesting fact 
 to my mind, that almost on the very spot, as it were, in which 
 St. Paul encountered the like peril, we had experienced the 
 special mercies of God. As to the particular locality, it may 
 be remarked, that the only observable difference is this the 
 Apostle was in his way towards Malta we, en route from 
 it : but both were " driven up and down in Adria." That 
 the island of Malta was the actual scene of the Apostle's 
 
 1 Acts xxvii. 27.
 
 56 MELITA MALTA. 
 
 shipwreck, I have but little doubt, though some, with apparent 
 reason, have questioned the fact. It may be interesting to 
 my readers to see a brief view of the argument on both sides 
 of the question. 
 
 LA TROBE, in his Scriptural Illustrations, says " There 
 is some difficulty in identifying this island. The name and 
 general suitableness of the situation, however, seem to verify 
 the concurrent testimony of centuries, that Malta, in the 
 Mediterranean, answers to the Melita of the Scriptures. This, 
 however, is not universally conceded. It has been suggested 
 on high authority, that a small island in the Adriatic sea, on 
 the Illyrian coast, now called Meleda, was the Melita of the 
 Acts. The most plausible arguments in behalf of this opinion 
 are derived from its situation being decidedly in the Adriatic, 
 which cannot properly be said of Malta, from its exact position 
 in reference to a storm from the S. E., the island lying N. W. 
 by N. of the S. W. promontory of Crete from the wildness 
 of the island, and the barbarous character of its inhabitants 
 and from the low, damp, marshy nature of the country, 
 favourable for reptiles and fevers. On the other side it is 
 argued, that tradition a good witness in matters of fact has 
 ever assigned the locality to Malta that the winds S. E. E. S. E. 
 and E. were equally calculated to drive a ship to Malta in 
 a direct course from Crete that had the vessel taken the 
 course of Meleda, there had been no danger of falling 
 upon the syrtis that it does not appear that the Romans 
 had ever such an establishment in Meleda as to require the 
 residence of a pro-Praetor that it is not probable that a ship 
 of Alexandria would choose such an island to winter in, which 
 implies the arrival before the stormy season that in the event 
 of a ship making the western course of Italy from Meleda, 
 there would have been no need to touch at Syracuse before 
 it could arrive at Ehegium." 
 
 Mr. Bryant, Dr. Hales, and others, have strenuously 
 endeavoured to shew that the Melita of the Acts was in the 
 Adriatic sea, on the coast of Illyricum. Dr. Hales thus states
 
 MELITA MALTA. 57 
 
 his argument : That this island was Meleda near the Illyrian 
 coast, not Malta on the southern coast of Italy, may appear 
 from the following considerations. 1. It lies confessedly in 
 the Adriatic sea, but Malta a considerable distance from it. 
 2. It lies nearer the mouth of the Adriatic than any other 
 island of that sea ; and would, of course, be more likely to 
 receive the wreck of any vessel driven by tempests towards 
 that quarter. And it lies north-west by north, of the south- 
 west promontory of Crete ; and came nearly in the direction 
 of a storm from the south-east quarter. 3. An obscure island 
 called Melita, whose inhabitants were ' barbarous,' was not 
 applicable to the celebrity of Malta at that time, which 
 Cicero represents as abounding in curiosities and riches, and 
 possessing a remarkable manufacture of the finest linen : and 
 Diodorus Siculus more fully Malta is furnished with many 
 and very good harbours, and the inhabitants are very rich, 
 for it is full of all sorts of artificers, among whom there are 
 excellent weavers of fine linen. Their houses are very stately 
 and beautiful, adorned with graceful eaves, and pargetted with 
 white plaster. The inhabitants are a colony of Phoenicians, 
 who, trading as merchants as far as the western ocean, resorted 
 to this place on account of its commodious forts and convenient 
 situation for maritime commerce ; and by the advantages 
 of this place the inhabitants subsequently became famous both 
 for their wealth and their merchandise. 4. The circumstance 
 of the viper or venomous snake which fastened on St. Paul's 
 hand, agrees with the damp and woody island of Meleda, as 
 affording shelter and proper nourishment for such, but not 
 with the dry and rocky island of Malta, in which there are no 
 serpents now, and were none in the time of Pliny. 5. The 
 disease with which the father of Publius was affected 
 dysentry combined with fever, probably intermittent, might 
 well suit a country woody and damp, and probably for want 
 of draining exposed to the putrid effluvia of confined moisture ; 
 but was not likely to affect a dry, rocky, and remarkably 
 healthy island like Malta. 
 
 Dr. Falconer, likewise, is of opinion that the Adria, 
 mentioned in Acts xxvii. 27, can only mean the gulph
 
 58 MELITA MALTA. 
 
 of Venice, the admission of which would certainly exclude 
 Malta ; but on the other hand, it has been clearly shewn, by 
 Beza, Bochart, Grotius, Western, and others, from Ptolemy, 
 Strabo, and other writers, that at the time in question, the 
 Adriatic sea was used to comprehend the whole of the sea 
 between Greece, Italy, and Africa ; so that it comprised the 
 Ionian, Cretan, and Sicilian seas. 
 
 That Malta is the island intended by St. Luke, in Acts 
 xxvii., is to my mind sufficiently evident, from the following 
 considerations. The Apostle left the island on which he 
 was wrecked whatever it might have been in a ship of 
 Alexandria, which had wintered there on her voyage to Italy ; 
 and after touching at Syracuse and Rhegium, landed at 
 Puteoli, thus sailing in a direct course. The Illyrican Melita, 
 would be far out of the usual track from Alexandria to Italy ; 
 and in sailing from it to Rhegium, Syracuse also would be 
 out of the direct course. The fact, that the ship was tossed 
 all night prior to the wreck, in the Adriatic sea, does not 
 lessen the probability of its being afterwards driven upon 
 Malta; because the name Adria was applied to the whole 
 Ionian sea, which lay between Italy and Greece. 
 
 The objection urged from the term "barbarous people" 
 being applied by St. Luke, in Acts xxviii. 2, to the cultivated 
 and distinguished inhabitants of Malta, is altogether without 
 weight. They were, as I have already remarked, of Phoenician 
 origin; and their ancient language was probably in use 
 among them at that time, though intermixed with Greek and 
 Latin terms and phrases. Such a language must have been 
 almost unintelligible to the Romans and Greeks, although, 
 on the expulsion of the Carthaginians by the Romans, it 
 was in the possession of the latter at the time of the 
 Apostle. With the Romans, as well as with other nations, 
 it was customary to apply the epithet "barbarians" to 
 those whose language they did not understand. St. Paul 
 himself speaks in this way, in 1 Cor. xiv. 11 "If I know 
 not the meaning of the voice, I shall be unto him that 
 speaketh, a barbarian; and he that speaketh shall be a
 
 SYR A. 59 
 
 barbarian unto me." Thus Herodotus, also, Lib. ii. 158, says, 
 
 fiapfiapovs Trai/ras AiiyvTrnoi KaKeovffi TOUS [irj a<pt ofLo^fkwaaov^. 
 
 "The Egyptians call all those BARBARIANS, who have not the 
 same language with themselves" And Ovid, when among 
 the Getce, says in Trist. verse 10 : 
 
 "BABBABCS hie ego sum, quia non intelligor ulli ;" 
 Here I am a barbarian, for no person understands me. 
 
 Resuming our route towards Syra, we soon lost sight 
 of Zante ; and passing the little Island of Strophades, were, 
 in the course of the day, enabled to hail the distant shores 
 of Greece. We calculated that we had lost at least twenty-four 
 hours by reason of the storm, and the tack which had been 
 made towards Zante. On the following day, after very 
 prosperous sailing, we found ourselves entering amidst the 
 Islands of the Archipelago. Between ten and eleven o'clock 
 at night, we cast anchor in the bay of Syra, which lay bathed 
 in the loveliest moonlight, presenting a delightful contrast to 
 the scenes of terror with which we had been so recently made 
 familiar. 
 
 The captain's mate went ashore immediately on our arrival ; 
 and soon returned with the intimation that the passengers for 
 Alexandria would have no time to land at Syra, but must go at 
 once on board the Lycurgus then lying at anchor, preparing 
 to sail for that port in about two hours. We made all needful 
 preparations endured a noisy struggle with some clamorous 
 Greek boatmen, and soon were transferred from the one vessel 
 to the other. We found we had the whole of the first-class 
 part of it to ourselves, with the exception of a young and 
 gentlemanly ^Egyptian, who had been for some time in Europe, 
 and had accompanied us from Naples, and was on his way to 
 Alexandria his birth-place to die, as appeared most likely, 
 of consumption, under the ravages of which fearful malady 
 he was rapidly declining. There was much about him that 
 interested us : he was gentle and apparently amiable. I 
 longed much to be able to converse freely with him, as to the 
 state of his soul and its prospects ; but we had no suitable
 
 60 CRETE. 
 
 medium of communication. He understood but little English, 
 and spoke less. I have not heard of his fate ; but I look 
 upon him, in memory, as one who has long since passed into 
 an eternal state. 
 
 Our first day's passage, after loosing from Syra, was delight- 
 fully made, at between eight and nine knots an hour. The 
 climate was bland and balmy ; and I felt my elastic spirits 
 bounding in it, after the trials through which I had passed. 
 The deep blue of the graceful ocean was charming ; and the 
 sunset, tinging the joyous waves with the golden record of his 
 passing brightness, presented a scene often to be recalled. 
 Sunsets like these I had never before witnessed. It was 
 not the sharp brilliancy of an European sunset, but a soft 
 dewy velvet-like painting of the western sky and the 
 glancing waters which appeared like liquid gold. At about 
 five o'clock in the afternoon we came within reach of the 
 first dim and distant view of Crete ; but the evening closed 
 before we had advanced enough to have a distinct view 
 of it, though passing pretty near to its eastern boundary. 
 Still, it was delightful to know that we were so near a spot 
 of such interest in the Christian annals. 
 
 Crete, one of the finest islands of the Mediterranean, now 
 called Candia, was celebrated for its early legislative code, its 
 civilization, its superstitions, as well for its natural produc- 
 tions in oil, wine, and fruits. It lies south-west of Peloponnesus 
 and west of Asia Minor ; is about one hundred and eighty 
 miles long, and twenty broad ; and is computed to have nearly 
 three hundred thousand inhabitants, who, as of old, bear but 
 an indifferent moral character. Formerly, there were about 
 equal numbers of Greeks and Mahommedans ; but since the 
 transfer of the territory to the Pasha of Egypt, Mehemet Ali, 
 the number of Mahommedans has considerably increased. In 
 the capital, there are fourteen Turkish Mosques, a Greek 
 Cathedral and Church, an Armenian Church, and a Roman 
 Catholic Monastery. St. Paul, quoting the character given 
 of them by one of their own poets, supposed to be Epimenides,
 
 MAHOMMEDAN DEVOTIONS. 61 
 
 says, " The Cretans are always liars, evil beasts, slow bellies ;" 
 and Mr. Hartley, in his Researches in Greece, says, "The 
 Cretans of the present day are precisely what they were in the 
 day of the Apostle Paul ; they are notoriously, whether Turks 
 or Greeks, the very worst characters in the Levant." 
 
 Crete was at an early period the site of a Christian Church, 
 of which Titus was the first bishop. 1 
 
 It was on board the Lycurgus, just at sunset, that I 
 first witnessed the performance of Moslem devotions. At the 
 fore part of the vessel there was a group of Mahommedans 
 with an appearance of devoutness about them worthy of a 
 better creed. They spread out their segaddehs, or prayer- 
 carpets, which those who can afford it always carry with 
 them, and which are of the size of a large hearth-rug, 
 of beautiful materials and pattern. Pulling off their slippers, 
 they stand on these carpets with their bare feet, repeating a 
 certain order of prayers in a very low voice, accompanied by a 
 number of genuflections and prostrations, touching frequently 
 the ground with their forehead with the face turned always 
 towards Mecca, the shrine of Mahomet. I could but respect 
 the apparent devotedness of manner, though in connection 
 with a system in which truth holds but little place. When, 
 thought I, will they be followers of the Lamb ! A.nd will the 
 drying up of the Euphrates, 2 be the opening of the well-springs 
 of salvation to these slaves of the false prophet ? 
 
 The next night passed serenely, and the next day during 
 which we made successful progress towards Alexandria. 
 The morning of the twenty-fifth of April opened with a fresh 
 and stirring breeze; and the whole crew and passengers, 
 even our poor sick companion, seemed all animation, at 
 the prospect of reaching the destined port the ancient, 
 far-famed city of Egypt, before sunset. I freely partook 
 of the general exhilaration; and felt that I was indeed 
 
 1 Titus i. 5. a Rev. xvi. 12.
 
 62 FIRST VIEW OF ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 ncaring the most deeply interesting parts of the inhabited 
 globe. My imagination was very creative ; and I became at 
 last almost impatient, as if the "leaden- winged" hours were 
 moving far too slowly. Twelve o'clock came, and the 
 stronger-sighted of the crew were able, they said, to descry 
 something in the distance. Was it the land of mystery and 
 of miracle in reality; or did their imagination shape forth 
 things that were not yet visible to the bodily eye ? I could 
 discern nothing, however willing to believe that the land 
 of Egypt was in sight. Another hour passed ; and I thought 
 I could perceive somewhat that had the appearance of a thin 
 narrow strip of land. Others were quite sure they could. 
 At length a low range of irregular buildings more like 
 shadow than reality, presented itself; and to the right of it 
 I could trace a long narrow ridge of sand, more like a deeply 
 defined horizon line than anything else. Soon it became 
 distinct enough to be recognized as an ocean-boundary ; but 
 so low, that it seemed wonderful it should not be covered 
 by the waters of the sea. Above the horizon, a remarkable 
 appearance presented itself as if the whole atmosphere were 
 impregnated with sand, borne by the breezes from the Lybian 
 desert. And this probably was the case, as the sands are thus 
 carried onwards to an immense distance. Soon my imagination 
 began to act upon the idea of crossing trackless deserts, amidst 
 wild and lawless tribes. I seemed at once, to lose sight, in 
 my memory, of the interesting European scenes through which 
 I had passed ; and Egypt and Palestine, with all their rich 
 associations, rose before my excited fancy; while home itself, 
 with all its objects of affection, seemed at a vast distance 
 indeed. I was in sight of the land of the Pharaohs the scene 
 of Israel's bondage and deliverance the burial-place of the 
 mighty Alexander. 
 
 Another hour brought us to a tolerably distinct view of the 
 city. We still made way ; and in due time hoisted the usual 
 signal for an Egyptian pilot to come and steer us into 
 the very difficult and dangerous port; a port which needs 
 always to be approached by a skilful and experienced hand,
 
 ARRIVAL AT ALEXANDRIA. 63 
 
 on account of the many rocks but slightly covered by the sea. 
 The signal was answered by the putting off from Alexandria 
 of a pilot-boat, with its graceful latteen sail, which bounded 
 like a bird, over the rather heavy swell of the bay. It soon 
 neared us ; and it was quite an exciting picture when we saw 
 its little crew in their graceful Arab costume their turbaned 
 heads and flowing garments, managing their little bark 
 with the greatest tact, and putting on board our vessel 
 the pilot a fine, middle-aged Arab, as brown as a berry, 
 and with a full black beard, who at once assumed the 
 management, giving direction upon direction, till the signal 
 was made for casting anchor, and our voyage was complete. 
 Boats in great numbers were quickly around us; and, 
 taking possession of one, we got our luggage cleared with 
 all possible celerity. Loud was the clamour, and wild the 
 scene. We had then a distance of nearly two miles ere 
 we could get on shore ; and when we fairly came to land, 
 what a picture was presented. The oriental appearance 
 of the city and of its population spoke for itself at once -, and 
 we felt that an African climate was about us. Throngs 
 of half-naked Arabs, clamorous for employment as porters, 
 stood around. The harsh guttural of the Arabic tongue 
 sounded strangely in our ears. Asses some saddled for 
 riding, and others prepared to carry baggage, together with 
 guides and servants proffering their services, all pressed 
 upon us together, as we first set our feet on the shores 
 of Egypt ; while, somewhat in the background, a long string 
 of camels, laden with timber, stones for building, and water 
 skins, passed along, with their slow, dreamy, yet majestic 
 step ; and here and there the " feathery palm-trees " waved 
 gracefully in the slightly moving breeze which swept over 
 them from the desert. It was indeed a heart-stirring moment, 
 when we first stepped ashore in a strange land, and such a 
 land as this, where every thing is a subject for the painter, 
 and tends to realize to the mind all the orientalism which 
 one has been accustomed to contemplate through the medium 
 of books and pictures.
 
 64 ALEXANDRIA. 
 
 It would have amused our friends in England, could they 
 but have seen us on our arrival, with our baggage laid upon 
 asses, guided by attendant Arab men and boys a troop 
 of them, all jealous of each other on account of the few piastres 
 which were to be the price of the accommodation ; the selected 
 ones exulting the rejected ones growling and fuming and 
 all going in uproarious procession through the narrow and 
 squalid-looking streets and avenues of the Arab quarter, 
 amidst crowds of the most picturesque figures that can be 
 conceived some gravely and silently smoking their long 
 pipes some squatting on the dust in the shade of the low 
 mud-walled dwellings, in earnest conversation some playing 
 at games, and others carrying on their heads and crying 
 various articles of small merchandize. Women were seen 
 bearing their half-naked babes astride on their shoulders, 
 and others riding on donkeys, which are the "hackney 
 coaches " of Alexandria. Winding our way slowly through 
 the overhung and confined streets, with a sense of entire 
 novelty and strangeness, we reached at length the European 
 Hotel, rejoicing at finding ourselves once more in a condition 
 to enjoy rest and repose. 
 
 Here ends the first stage of my pilgrimage. I scarcely 
 know which is more delightful the experience, or the 
 recollection. Both have their peculiar charms. The former 
 was transient; the latter will be permanent, so long as 
 memory shall retain the power of calling up her visions 
 of the past.
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 EGYPT. 
 
 ALEXANDRIA BAZAARS FEMALE COSTUME POMPEY'S PILLAR CLEOPATRA'S 
 
 NEEDLE ARAB CEMETERY EGYPTIAN FUNERAL PROCESSION TRAVELLING 
 
 APPARATUS MARRIAGE PROCESSION MAHMOUDI CANAL ARAB HORSEMEN 
 
 MEHEMET ALI ATFEH THE NILE BOAT -CREW SHUBRA PYRAMIDS 
 
 BOULAKH GRAND CAIRO RHODA ISLAND BATH BEDAWEEN ARABS 
 
 SHEIKH HUSSEIN SHEIKH SULEIMAN MENGID PREPARATIONS FOR THE 
 
 DESERT CAIRO SLAVE MARKET GREEK CONVENT PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH 
 
 OLD CAIRO DERVISHES EGYPTIAN HARVEST PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH THE 
 SPHYNX THE CAMEL CAMEL-RIDING. 
 
 IT was part of our original plan to have made an excursion in 
 Upper Egypt, for the purpose of visiting those noble antiquities 
 which have absorbed so much attention in late years but an 
 opinion expressed by Caviglia, at Paris, was confirmed by 
 others at Alexandria that the season was too far advanced to 
 admit of our fulfilling this intention with safety and comfort. 
 
 At Alexandria we resolved to make such a brief sojourn, 
 as should enable us to get the best advice as to our route 
 through the Arabian Desert, and to make some of the needful 
 preparations for that expedition. I am therefore prepared to 
 sketch only a few particulars in reference to that celebrated 
 locality, now so faded, and shorn of its ancient splendour and 
 importance. As I have less to do with Alexandria as it was, 
 than as it is, I shall just follow the order of my journal. 
 
 Our first visit was to the bazaars, which in oriental towns 
 are the centre of all activity, and the scenes in which national
 
 66 ALEXANDRIA BAZAARS. 
 
 character is variously displayed. They are contained in close 
 and confined streets, in the midst of which there is an 
 indescribable admixture, and an incessant stir of all orders 
 and classes picturesque in the extreme ; and to the European, 
 unpractised in the thing, it is at first a matter of difficulty 
 to make progress ; for while he is striving to avoid a troop 
 of donkeys and their obstreperous drivers, he is in great danger 
 of being trampled under foot, by a string of heavily-laden 
 camels unexpectedly turning a corner upon him, and, with 
 their burdens slung on either side, occupying almost the 
 entire width of the street. The Turks, Arabs, and Copts, 
 are generally well behaved; and never, so far as I know, 
 offer a gratuitous incivility to a stranger. I certainly never 
 experienced any ; and indeed, on one occasion, when an Arab, 
 rapidly passing me, happened unintentionally to spit upon my 
 coat, he seemed in the greatest confusion stopped bowed 
 his head took up a fold of his own garment, and deliberately 
 removed the offensive contribution. The most touchy English- 
 man could not have been angry on such an occasion. 
 
 The bazaars present every article of convenience suitable 
 to oriental notions ; and indeed at Alexandria, most European 
 wants may be well enough supplied. Bazaars for the sale of 
 tobacco of various kinds, and in various forms for consumption, 
 are found in all directions ; and the smell of tobacco-smoke is 
 the most familiar odour of the place. Everybody smokes, and 
 at every hour of the day. The whole front of the bazaars is 
 open, and has a floor raised about two or three feet above the 
 level of the street. It is furnished with carpets and sometimes 
 with cushions in the form of a dewan; and on these the 
 purchaser is not unfrequently seated, while selecting the articles 
 he wants, and agreeing or rather disagreeing and haggling 
 about the price ; for every one who purchases at a Turkish 
 or Arab bazaar must make up his mind to this, unless he would 
 pay double the value of all he needs. The Arab traders are 
 a stirring, active people on the look out for customers, and 
 prompt in attending to them. It is the reverse with the 
 Turks. They will suffer you to stand and look about, and
 
 ALEXANDRIA FEMALE COSTUME. 67 
 
 handle the various goods within reach, without rising from 
 their usually recumbent posture, or putting their long pipes 
 from their mouths. When you go so far as to express any 
 particular want, they will slowly and almost unwillingly break 
 in upon the half repose which they are enjoying, and place 
 before you the required articles, apparently careless whether 
 you purchase or not. 
 
 Though there is a spirit of improvement manifesting itself 
 in the external aspect of Alexandria the effect of the Pasha's 
 enterprising disposition ; though, from the bay to the citadel, 
 and thence throughout the public works, there are proofs 
 of growing importance which cannot be overlooked ; yet, were 
 it not for her past history, there would be little to fix the 
 attention of travellers accustomed to contemplate the splendour 
 of European cities, under more enlightened governments. An 
 air of poverty and sadness pervades this once glorious capital. 
 The great admixture of Europeans with the native population, 
 deprives the city of much of its oriental peculiarity ; and in 
 this respect, it reminded me somewhat of Malta, especially 
 in the European quarter. 
 
 The women, for the most past, go veiled about the streets, 
 in the most secret manner ; and often are so enveloped that 
 all idea of form is lost. The upper part of the face is 
 commonly covered with a kind of mask, made of some stiff 
 material, and generally of a dark colour. It is fastened with 
 a strip of leather, passing over the forehead to the nose, and 
 has holes cut so as just to leave the sight unobstructed. The 
 lower part of the face is concealed by a long conical-shaped 
 bag or purse, pendant from the mask. Some of the women 
 have the mask ornamented with coins strung together in rows, 
 extending downwards from the forehead. Their usual dress 
 out of doors, is either of white or blue cotton stuff, and 
 consists of a sort of loose gown with wide sleeves, and 
 another large piece of the same material in the form of a 
 wide mantle, which serves to envelope the head, shoulders, 
 and indeed the whole figure, when desirable.
 
 68 POMPEY'S PILLAR CLEOPATRA'S NEEDLE. 
 
 While in Alexandria, I observed a great number of Arabs 
 with only one eye ; the other having perished by disease or 
 violent means. The latter is said to be common, and to have 
 been very much the consequence of the severity of Mehemet 
 Ali's conscription mothers having deprived their children 
 of one eye in infancy, in order to rendeivthem unfit for military 
 service. But while in the east, I learnt that the crafty Pasha 
 of Egypt was not to be baffled, even by these cruel and debasing 
 precautions. He has formed two corps of one-eyed soldiers ; 
 but for what particular service it may be difficult to determine. 
 
 Every traveller who stays at Alexandria makes a point 
 of visiting Pompey's pillar, as it is called, and two fine ancient 
 obelisks, one of which is known by the name of Cleopatra's 
 needle. We did so. The former is a noble column of the 
 Corinthian order, formed of red granite ; and is, according 
 to Pococke, one hundred and seventeen feet high ; according 
 to others, only ninety-five. It stands on an elevated spot 
 of the ancient -city, between the walls of the modern one 
 and the Lake Mareotis. The latter are also of red granite, 
 one of which is still standing, though slightly out of the 
 perpendicular. The other lies near it, partly hidden in the 
 sand ; and both are about sixty-five feet in length and 
 between seven and eight feet square. The erect one was freed,' 
 by the French, from the sand, which for many years had been 
 accumulating about its base, to a depth of at least sixteen 
 feet. Each side is covered with sculptured hieroglyphics, 
 which, towards the west, are sharp and fresh, as if the chisel 
 had but recently left them. Those on the other sides are 
 far less distinct, owing probably to the stress of wind and 
 weather, which has power to wear away even granite. How 
 perishable is the hand of man. How enduring are its 
 achievements. It is a humbling thought. 
 
 The history of Alexandria occupies a conspicuous place in 
 the annals of antiquity. Greatness and nothingness nobility 
 and degradation, have been her characteristics the various 
 phases of her existence. It awakens many a solemn thought
 
 ALEXANDRIA ARAB CEMETERY, ETC. 69 
 
 to stand amidst the proofs of her desolation, and to mark the 
 struggles which she is now making for political and commercial 
 resuscitation. If, under the Ptolemies, she was the proud 
 metropolis of Egypt, if she drew forth the resources of Tyre in 
 her greatness, and became the grand commercial centre of the 
 east, yet she has been, until recently, the chain-bound vassal 
 of the Sultan. If with the name of Alexandria, we associate 
 those of some of the most illustrious of the earth we cannot 
 overlook the fact, that she beheld their degradation. Though 
 I can think of the past glories of Alexandria, as I recollect a 
 gorgeous dream yet, on my memory is deeply recorded the 
 fact, that there, Apollos the man " mighty in the scriptures," 
 and gifted in eloquence was born; that there, Mark the 
 Evangelist, preached " Christ the power of God and the 
 wisdom of God," and received the crown of martyrdom ; and 
 that there, too, the Septuagint translation of the Scriptures 
 was achieved, which laid open the page of inspiration to the 
 whole of the then civilized world. 
 
 In our way to the site of the ancient city, we passed through 
 an Arab burial-ground, covering the slope of a small hill. 
 The resting places of its silent inmates are marked by rudely 
 formed tombs, consisting generally of two or more slabs 
 of stone laid upon each other, of the length and breadth of the 
 grave ; some of them have the form of a turban roughly 
 sculptured on a low pillar of stone, fixed at the end ; and 
 all have an aloe planted in the middle of the uppermost 
 slab. I have sought in vain to inform myself in regard 
 to the intention of this custom. There must surely be some 
 superstitious idea connected with it. 
 
 Though Alexandria has sunk beyond all hope of return 
 to her' former splendour, yet it must be confessed that 
 Mehemet Ali evinces a vast spirit of enterprise. He is a man 
 far in advance of the age in which he lives ; and though it is 
 out of the question to offer a justification of some of the means 
 whereby he works out the designs of his policy, yet it must be 
 allowed that much has been well done. Though living under
 
 70 EGYPTIAN FUNERAL PROCESSION. 
 
 a purely despotic government, the people appear cheerful and 
 happy; and certainly I have never seen in Egypt such 
 instances of squalid misery and mendicity as I met with in 
 Italy, wherever I went. 
 
 It is quite amusing to see great numbers of Arab lads, 
 waiting with caparisoned donkeys, at the ends of streets. 
 As soon as any one likely to want their aid presents himself 
 near the corner, you hear them cry out like parrots, in 
 oriental-English "Captain, Captain want to ride? want 
 a donkey? very good donkey very good." After having 
 received a negative, they do not force themselves upon you 
 offensively, like those pests of Naples the hack-coachmen ; 
 but if you resolve upon indulging yourself with a ride, a 
 grand commotion at once sets in among the party, and it is 
 almost difficult to keep one's feet amidst the jostling of Arabs 
 and asses. The prudent traveller will spring upon the 
 back of the nearest animal; and in an instant he will find 
 himself delivered by an easy canter and the shout of the 
 rejoicing driver, out of the immediate scene of strife and 
 annoyance. The donkeys are strong, lively animals, and carry 
 even a heavy weight with apparent ease and safety. 
 
 Every hour spent in an oriental city, presents new and 
 ever varying objects of curiosity and interest. One day when 
 I was sitting at my open window, I heard distant sounds 
 of wailing and chanting. They soon became more distinctly 
 audible ; and at length I found they proceeded from a funeral 
 procession, just in sight. As it advanced, I observed that the 
 corpse was borne along upon a bier, by four Arabs, with 
 others to relieve them, as might be needful. It was covered 
 with a large crimson shawl ; and at one end was a turban 
 probably that of the deceased, fixed upon a short pole. The 
 corpse was preceded by a large concourse of Arabs, walking 
 two abreast, and chanting a wild and plaintive melody the 
 sequel of that which had at first arrested my attention, sometimes 
 in unison, and sometimes with an attempt at harmony. The 
 procession moved at a rapid pace, towards the burial-ground ;
 
 EGYPTIAN MOURNERS FUNERAL CUSTOMS. 71 
 
 and the corpse was followed by four veiled women, uttering 
 loud and discordant exclamations. There was an air of wild 
 intensity about the whole scene, which contrasted strongly, 
 in my mind, with the silent and subdued feelings which 
 characterize an English funeral. 
 
 On the subject of funeral solemnities, as formerly practiced 
 in ancient, and as still observed in modern Egypt, I have met 
 with interesting particulars, collected by Sir John G. Wilkinson 
 and Mr. Lane, which I will briefly state. In ancient Egypt, 
 when any one died, all the females of his family, covering 
 their heads and faces with dust and mud, and leaving the 
 body in the house, ran through the streets, striking their 
 breasts, and uttering loud lamentations. Their friends and 
 relations joined them as they went, uniting in the same 
 demonstrations of grief; and when the deceased was a person 
 of distinction, many strangers accompanied them out of respect 
 to his memory. Hired mourners were also employed, to add, 
 by their feigned expressions of grief, to the real lamentations 
 of the family, and to heighten the show of respect paid to the 
 deceased. The men, in like manner, girding their dress 
 below their waists, went through the town smiting their 
 breasts, and throwing dust and mud upon their heads. But 
 the greater number of mourners consisted of women, as is 
 usual in Egypt at the present day: and since the mode 
 of lamentation now practised is probably very similar to that 
 of former times, a description of it may be interesting. 
 
 As soon as the marks of approaching death are observed, 
 the females of the family raise the cry of lamentation; one 
 generally commencing in a low tone, and exclaiming, " O 
 my misfortune !" which is immediately taken up by another 
 with increased vehemence, and all join in similar exclamations, 
 united with piercing cries. They call on the deceased 
 according to their degree of relationship as, " O my father, 
 O my mother !" " O my sister, O my brother !" " O my 
 aunt !" or, according to the friendship and connection subsisting 
 between them as, " O my master !" " O lord of the house !"
 
 72 EGYPTIAN FUNEKAL CEREMONIES. 
 
 " O my friend !" " O my dear, my soul, my eyes !" and 
 many of the neighbours, as well as friends of the family, join 
 in the lamentation. A sort of funeral dirge is also chanted 
 by the mourning women, to the sound of the tambourine, from 
 which the tinkling plates have been removed. This continues 
 till the funeral takes place, which, if the person died in the 
 morning, is performed the same day ; but if in the afternoon 
 or evening, it is deferred until the morning, the lamentations 
 being continued all night. 
 
 Mr. Lane thus describes the funeral procession. The first 
 persons forming it, are about six or more poor men, called 
 Yemeneeh, mostly blind, who proceed two and two, or three 
 and three, together. Walking at a moderate pace, or rather 
 slowly, they chant, in a melancholy tone, the profession of faith, 
 or sometimes other words. These are followed by some male 
 relations and friends of the deceased, and in many cases by 
 two or more persons of some sect of Dervishes, bearing the 
 flags of their order : next follow three or four boys, one 
 of whom carries a copy of the Koran, placed upon a kind 
 of desk, formed of palm sticks, and covered over generally with 
 an embroidered kerchief. These boys chant in a higher and 
 livelier voice than the Yemene'eh, usually some words of a 
 poem, descriptive of the events of the last day, the judgment, 
 &c. The boys immediately precede the bier, which is borne 
 head foremost. Three or four friends of the deceased usually 
 carry it for a short distance ; then three or four other friends, 
 who are in like manner relieved. Behind the bier, walk the 
 female mourners, sometimes a group of more than a dozen or 
 twenty, with their hair dishevelled, though generally concealed 
 by the head veil crying and shrieking. Among the women, 
 the relations and domestics of the deceased are each 
 distinguished by a strip of linen, or cotton stuff, or muslin, 
 generally blue, bound round the head, and tied in a single knot 
 behind, the ends hanging down a few inches. Each of these 
 carries also a handkerchief, usually dyed blue, which she 
 sometimes holds over her shoulders, and at other times twirls 
 with both hands over her head, or before her face. The cries
 
 FUNERAL CEREMONIES TRAVELLING APPARATUS. 73 
 
 of women, the lively chanting of the youths, and the deep tones 
 uttered by the Yemeneeh, compose a strange discord. 
 
 The wailing of women at funerals was forbidden by the 
 prophet ; and so also was the celebration of the virtues of the 
 deceased. Some of these precepts are every day violated; 
 and I have seen mourning women of the lower classes, 
 following a bier, having their faces, which were bare, and 
 their head-coverings and bosoms besmeared with mud. 
 
 The funeral procession of a man of wealth, or of the middle 
 classes, is sometimes preceded by three, four or more camels, 
 bearing bread and water to give to the poor at the tomb, and 
 is composed of a more numerous and varied assemblage 
 of persons. In such a procession besides the persons already 
 mentioned, the led horses of the bearers, if men of rank, 
 often follow the bier; and a buffalo, to be sacrificed at the 
 tomb, where its flesh is to be distributed to the poor, closes 
 the procession. 
 
 Having resolved to proceed to Cairo, there to decide upon 
 our future movements, we set about making such provisions 
 for our journey as the customs of the country rendered 
 necessary; for in the east, no comforts or conveniences for 
 the traveller are to be met with by the way. If he desire 
 the luxury of a bed, he must carry it with him; if the 
 protection of a tent, against the heat of the sun, he must not 
 omit to furnish himself with it before he starts; if his 
 European habits lead him to look upon plates, cups, knives, 
 forks, and spoons, as needful matters of convenience, he 
 must secure them ere he bids farewell to the bazaars of 
 Alexandria and Cairo ; and so, in like manner, in regard to 
 the ordinary matters of sustenance biscuit, rice, maccaroni, 
 coffee, sugar, preserved fruits, &c. A long fatiguing visit 
 to the bazaars of Alexandria, furnished us with many 
 requisites ; the rest we were obliged to defer till we should 
 reach Cairo. It is a disgusting task to make bargains 
 with oriental traders ; the utter dishonesty of their habits is*
 
 74 MARRIAGE PROCESSION MAHMOUDI CANAL. 
 
 so apparent. They make no attempt at concealment. I am 
 now speaking of oriental traders ; but I cannot help adding my 
 fervent wish that instances of over-reaching, and degrading 
 dishonesty were confined to them. 
 
 While we were in our rooms on the evening preceding 
 our departure, making various preparations for the journey, 
 our attention was arrested by a loud sound a chorus of 
 men's voices, accompanied by the beating of drums and the 
 rude music of reed-pipes, with a drone, not altogether unlike 
 the Scottish bagpipes. On turning to the window, we saw 
 a long procession of gaily-dressed persons, bearing lighted 
 torches, which illuminated the whole street. In addition to 
 this, fire-baskets, of iron, were carried about on long poles, 
 supplied with blazing fuel. It was a marriage procession 
 " the voice of the bridegroom and of the bride." The bride- 
 groom was on his way to claim his bride, attended by his 
 friends, rejoicing. The whole scene forcibly brought to my 
 mind the allusions to marriage customs made by our blessed 
 Saviour. 
 
 It was early on the twenty-ninth of April that we com- 
 menced our route to Grand Cairo no small undertaking, all 
 things considered. Our passage was along the Mahmoudi canal, 
 as far as Atfeh ; and from thence up the Nile. The season 
 was charming; but the way was dreary enough. Soon after 
 we had embarked in our towing-boat, I noticed a contrivance 
 for raising water from the canal, for the purpose of irrigation. 
 Many repetitions of it occurred as we advanced. It was 
 a kind of "man-mill," if I may venture upon such a 
 designation. At the brink of the canal stood two men, on a 
 firm floor or footing, constructed with rough stones, holding 
 between them a sort of basket, made water tight, capable 
 of containing, perhaps, about six or eight gallons, suspended 
 by a rope, fastened at each side and drawn tight. Then by a 
 rapid, see-saw motion, they first dived the vessel into the 
 water, and quickly bringing it back again, inverted it, pouring 
 its contents into a channel cut in the bank, along which the
 
 ARAB HORSEMEN MEHEMET ALL 75 
 
 water flowed towards the spot from which the irrigation 
 was intended to proceed. It was a very simple, yet efficient 
 contrivance. 
 
 All our progress along the canal was effected by towing 
 for which purpose, sometimes four, and at others, six horses 
 were employed, and changed about every twelve miles. The 
 horses were ridden by wild, half-naked Arabs, and sometimes 
 Nubians, whose feats of horsemanship, on the banks of the 
 canal, were perfectly novel and amusing. The Arab, though 
 taught to ride from his birth first astride on the shoulders 
 of his mother, and then, on every animal from the camel to 
 the ass, is yet a most peculiar rider. He does not, like a 
 European, sit so close to his horse, as to appear glued to 
 the creature, but he looks more like a bird, ready to take 
 wing at any moment ; and he seems to lay hold of the stirrup 
 with his bare feet, as if they were the claws of a bird. When 
 dashing along at a rapid rate, they set up a wild shout, 
 which breaks at length into a choral song, anything but 
 harmonious to European ears. In some parts of the canal 
 the water is exceedingly scanty, and, on other accounts also, 
 impracticable for the ordinary plan of towing with horses on 
 the banks. This inconvenience is constantly met by the 
 riders springing from their horses, dashing at once into 
 the water, tackling themselves with ropes, and swimming 
 sometimes, and at other times rushing over the shoals of sand, 
 and dragging the boat along with surprising force and agility. 
 In this picturesque operation they are joined by the crew; 
 while the unyoked horses are led on to resume their 
 labour as soon as the state of the river will admit. This 
 curious scene we repeatedly witnessed in our passage along 
 the canal and up the Nile. The Arabs are almost amphibious 
 creatures ; and whether toiling in the burning sun, or 
 immersed to their chins in water, seem to be utterly regardless 
 of personal inconvenience. 
 
 After we had proceeded nearly half way to Atfeh, news 
 was brought that Mehemet Ali the Pasha of Egypt, was on
 
 76 MEHEMET ALL 
 
 his way from Cairo to Alexandria. In consequence of this, 
 it was feared that our boat might be enlisted in his highness's 
 service. After having continued our route for another hour 
 or so, we descried an encampment on the bank of the canal, 
 which consisted of the attendants of the great man; and 
 on stepping ashore, we learnt that the far-famed "Lion" 
 of Egypt was resting at a small farm house to dine. It was 
 not long before our boat was required; and it became 
 necessary for us to get the baggage, &c. unloaded, to be 
 taken on to Atfeh in the best way it might; while we 
 ourselves were left to proceed in any small craft that could 
 be procured. All this was inconvenient enough ; but there 
 was no help for it. The first intention was that the baggage 
 should be sent on by camels, of which there were some at 
 hand. But, alas ! the Pasha had pressed every one into his 
 service. However, by a little dexterity and management, 
 camels sufficient for our purpose were secured, after a wild 
 scene of Arab violence and uproar, in which there is always 
 more sound than danger. A small latteen-sailed boat was 
 obtained after we had walked on for some distance, just 
 sufficient to convey us and our attendants. 
 
 We had a full view of Mehemet Ali as he sat at dinner, 
 and while he was enjoying his chibouk, attended by his 
 retinue ; and afterwards, when he came from the farm house, 
 and mounted his white mule, for the purpose of taking 
 possession of our boat, we were enabled to form a tolerably 
 accurate notion of his person. He is a most remarkable man, 
 and realized all we had heard about him. He is now past 
 seventy, with a hale, firm, and determined countenance, and 
 venerable white beard. Seeing two Europeans near him, 
 as he hastily passed by, he glanced a very peculiar, but not 
 unfriendly, glance upon us ; acknowledged slightly our bows, 
 made some passing observations to his nearest attendants, 
 with an evident reference to us, and in another minute was 
 mounted on his mule. His highness's pipe-bearer and coffee- 
 bearer, his silver washhand bason and towel-bearer, secretary 
 and interpreter, all, were in immediate attendance upon him.
 
 ATFEH THE NILE. 77 
 
 The scene was very interesting and very oriental. Here was 
 perhaps almost the wonder of the age the soldier of fortune, 
 who had risen from the humblest rank in the Turkish army 
 now the powerful despot of Egypt, with almost patriarchal 
 simplicity, taking his homely mid-day meal at a small farm 
 house, and departing as ancient despots used, surrounded by 
 slaves, camels, dromedaries, &c. &c. 
 
 I shall not easily lose the impression made on my 
 mind by this glance at Mehemet Ali. Had he reached 
 Alexandria before our departure, we should have been 
 presented to him. And even on this occasion, it might have 
 been practicable ; but we thought, willing as he is to receive 
 Europeans, it might be then deemed intrusive ; so we suffered 
 the opportunity to pass. 
 
 It was nearly ten o'clock in the evening, and very dark, 
 with the exception of the light afforded by numberless stars, 
 when we came to shore, within about two miles of Atfeh, 
 where the canal joins the Nile. On landing, we found a 
 supply of camels to take our baggage, and saddled donkeys for 
 riding. It was a strange and primitive scene. Camels were 
 gurgling and grunting in a loud strain donkeys were keeping 
 up a perpetual braying while Arab tongues, some hoarse 
 and shouting some shrill and screaming others sputtering 
 their exclamations of anger and eagerness, made up a 
 babel of strange sounds. At length, all the baggage was 
 loaded donkeys were mounted by our whole party, and a 
 goodly number of lanterns lighted ; and we set out, over a 
 rough, hilly, and uneven road, along which we were obliged 
 to trust entirely to our sure-footed animals. "We seemed to 
 be a tediously long time in getting over the two miles ; but 
 at last arrived safely at Atfeh, where we stayed for the 
 night, at a miserable kind of half-European hotel, swarming 
 with animalculae, under a promise of being furnished at an 
 early hour of the morning, with a suitable Nile-boat and 
 crew, to take us up to Cairo. We partook of a coarse, homely 
 supper such as an Englishman would, under ordinary
 
 78 THE NILE. 
 
 circumstances, make a dead pause at, and soon fell asleep after 
 the fatigues of an exhausting day. Mercy and goodness had 
 followed us thus far ; and my heart was lifted up in praise 
 and thanksgiving. 
 
 Many an interesting thought and feeling passed through 
 my mind, when, in the light of the early morning, I first 
 beheld the waters of the ancient Nile sparkling before 
 me. I thought of the miraculous transaction of which this 
 very river was, doubtless, the scene, as recorded in Exodus 
 vii. 15 21: "Get thee unto Pharaoh in the morning; lo, 
 he goeth out unto the water ; and thou shalt stand by the 
 river's brink against he come ; and the rod which was turned 
 to a serpent shalt thou take in thine hand. And thou shalt say 
 unto him, the Lord God of the Hebrews hath sent me unto 
 thee, saying, let my people go, that they may serve me in 
 the wilderness ; and, behold, hitherto thou wouldest not hear. 
 Thus saith the Lord, in this thou shalt know that I am the 
 Lord : behold, I will smite with the rod that is in mine hand, 
 upon the waters which are in the river, and they shall be 
 turned to blood. And the fish that is in the river shall die, 
 and the river shall stink ; and the Egyptians shall loath to 
 drink of the water of the river. * * And Moses 
 
 and Aaron did so as the Lord commanded ; and he lifted up 
 the rod, and smote the waters that were in the river, in the 
 sight of Pharaoh, and in the sight of his servants ; and all the 
 waters that were in the river were turned to blood. And 
 the fish that was in the river died ; and the river stank ; and 
 the Egyptians could not drink of the water of the river; 
 and there was blood throughout all the land of Egypt." 
 
 The Nile is one of the most interesting objects of natural 
 history, in addition to those associations of idea which scripture 
 affords in reference to it. It is the noblest river of the old 
 world. For the immense distance of one thousand three 
 hundred and fifty nautical miles (that is, from Ilak in Nubia, 
 where the Nile is joined by the river Takazze), it rolls on 
 to its mouths in the Mediterranean, without receiving one
 
 THE NILE. 79 
 
 tributary stream; "an unexampled instance," as Humboldt 
 has remarked, "in the hydrographic history of the globe." It 
 is to this noble river that Egypt owes its fertility, and probably 
 its existence. 
 
 The Nile is well known to be remarkable for an annual 
 overflow of its waters to a vast extent ; and affords one of the 
 most striking instances of providential provision for furthering 
 the process of vegetation. Various theories of this phenomenon 
 have been proposed by numerous writers, from Homer and 
 Herodotus downwards ; and various accounts also have been 
 given of the process of inundation. The following observa- 
 tions of Bruce are interesting and valuable. He remarks : 
 " The air is so much rarified by the sun, during the time he 
 remains almost stationary over the tropic of Capricorn, that 
 the winds, loaded with vapours, rush in upon the land from 
 the Atlantic ocean on the west, the Indian ocean on the east, 
 and the cold Southern ocean beyond the Cape. Thus, a great 
 quantity of vapour is gathered, as it were, into a focus ; and as 
 the same causes continue to operate during the progress of the 
 sun northward, a vast train of clouds proceeds from south to 
 north, which are sometimes extended much further than at 
 other times. In April, all the rivers in the south of Abyssinia 
 begin to swell ; in the beginning of June, they are all full, 
 and continue so while the sun remains stationary in the 
 tropic of Cancer. This excessive rain, which would sweep 
 off the whole soil of Egypt into the sea, were it to continue 
 without intermission, begins to abate as the sun turns 
 southward ; and on his arrival at the zenith of each place, on his 
 passage towards that quarter, they cease entirely. Imme- 
 diately after the sun has passed the line, he begins the rainy 
 season to the southward. The rise of the Nile at Cairo does 
 not commence till June ; the green colour, produced either 
 by the influx of corrupt or stagnant waters, or by the action 
 of the hot south winds on the sluggish stream, appearing 
 about the twelfth of that month. The red appearance, 
 occasioned by the arrival of the Abyssinian waters, takes place 
 early in July, from which the rise of the river may perfectly
 
 80 THE NILE. 
 
 be dated, as it then begins to increase rapidly. By the middle 
 of August it reaches half its greatest height, and it attains its 
 maximum towards the end of September. From the twenty- 
 fourth of that month, the waters are supposed to decline, but 
 maintain nearly the same level till the middle of October. 
 By the tenth of November, they have sunk about half, and 
 from that period continue to subside very slowly till they 
 reach their minimum in April. The regularity with which 
 these phenomena occur, will appear the more remarkable, 
 when taken in connection with all the circumstances which 
 distinguish this wonderful stream." 
 
 The swell of the river varies in different parts of the 
 channel. In Upper Egypt, it is from thirty to thirty-five feet. 
 At Cairo, it is about twenty-five feet ; whilst in the northern 
 part of the Delta, it does not exceed four feet ; which is owing 
 to the artificial channels and the breadth of the inundation ; 
 yet the four feet of increase is as necessary to the fertility 
 of the Delta, as the twenty-three or thirty feet elsewhere. Very 
 little rain ever falls in Egypt and in Upper Egypt is scarcely 
 known. In Lower Egypt, a very slight and almost momentary 
 shower is all that is ever experienced, even during the cool 
 part of the year. Therefore the irrigation which the land 
 receives through the direct overflow of the Nile, and by 
 means of the canals which convey its waters where the 
 inundation does not directly extend, is quite essential to that 
 fertility for which Egypt has at all times been proverbial. 
 The inhabitants of Egypt have, with great labour, cut a vast 
 number of canals and trenches, through the whole extent 
 of the land. These canals are not opened until the river has 
 attained a certain height, nor yet all at the same time, as the 
 distribution of the water would then be unequal. The sluices 
 are closed when the waters begin to subside, and are gradually 
 opened again in the autumn, allowing the waters to pass on 
 to contribute to the irrigation of the Delta. 
 
 We have, in all the details of the annual inundation of this 
 river, a striking exemplification of the providence of God.
 
 THE NILE BOAT-CREW. 81 
 
 The fertility of the country depends upon the waters reaching 
 a certain medium; for, if they do not rise to a certain 
 minimum, famine is the result ; and if they exceed a certain 
 maximum, consequences scarcely less calamitous result 
 whole villages are then liable to be swept away, with all 
 the corn, cattle, and inhabitants. The waters, however, 
 usually reach this medium, which is higher or lower in 
 different parts of the country, according as those parts are 
 visited with less or more copious supplies of rain ; the rise is 
 so regular, that it may be calculated upon within a very 
 few days of its taking place ; and yet the actual cause of it 
 exists at least two thousand miles from some of the parts 
 where it is experienced. It is no wonder that the Egyptians, 
 looking no further than to the river itself for the source of all 
 their natural blessings, should deify and worship it. 1 
 
 Early on the morning of the thirtieth of April, our Nile-boat 
 was ready, the baggage on board, and soon we were on the 
 broad bosom of the ancient river. Aft, upon the deck, we 
 had a snug little cabin, with windows on each side: no 
 beds, but a dewan, or raised and cushioned seat all round 
 just enough to afford convenience for stretching out our 
 limbs during the nights we were destined to spend on board. 
 Our crew consisted of the Reis or captain, a fine dark com- 
 plexioned Arab, in his white turban and white tunic ; a pilot 
 of the same caste ; eight sailors, six of them Arabs, and the 
 remainder Abyssinians. The latter were finely formed men, 
 and as black as ebony. Besides the crew, we had Ahmet, 
 a Copt, with a face like the sphynx, as our cook ; and Ali 
 Mahommed, a clever, intelligent Arab (speaking a little Eng- 
 lish and more Italian), as our butler, valet, footman, &c. all 
 in one ! Our first meal, on the Nile, was breakfast : an 
 amusing affair of boiled meat, eggs, bread, buffalo's butter, 
 and coffee, served up on a towel for a table-cloth. 
 
 We made way tolerably well, till towards the evening, when 
 1 See Bible Cyclopaedia.
 
 THE NILE. 
 
 the wind tacked against us, and it was in vain to attempt 
 progress. We laid by therefore patiently, in hope of one 
 of those sudden changes which are so common on the 
 Nile, and of which we afterwards had frequent experience. 
 Soon after midnight, the wind turned in our favour, and we 
 made way most successfully. The noble river lay like a 
 surface of glass around us; and the recently risen moon 
 cast a lovely path of rays across the wide expanse ; while our 
 winged bark glided onwards amidst others of its kind, like 
 objects in a dream. The grasshoppers were chirping their 
 roundelay on the distant banks, and all our Arabs, except 
 three, lay along on the deck, reposing after the labours of the 
 day. The night was so lovely that it banished sleep from my 
 eyelids. The silence of the scene was indescribable ; and I 
 felt too, I was in the region of wonder and august recollection ; 
 in the land to which the tender babe of Bethlehem was 
 transported by night, in obedience to a divine command, 
 beyond the reach of the tyrant Herod. It might have been 
 such a night as this; and this very moon perhaps enlightened 
 the pathway of its incarnate Creator. I remembered, more- 
 over, that I was in the land over which Joseph ruled, 
 and in which he glorified the God of Israel; where Israel 
 groaned under cruel taskmasters ; where Jehovah called 
 forth his distinguished servants, Moses and Aaron, to their 
 arduous work, and stretched forth his hand in marvellous and 
 miraculous ministration, on behalf of a people whom he had 
 chosen for himself, and bound to him by a lasting covenant. 
 
 If the loveliness of the night, and the current of thoughts 
 in my mind had not kept me wakeful, I certainly should have 
 been deprived of rest, by the swarms of vermin which broke 
 loose upon me, when I lay down on the dewan. I found it 
 quite useless to close my eyes, so I sat on deck, watching for 
 the dawning of May-day. It was a bright dawning indeed, 
 and the morning air was so bland and soft, there seemed to be 
 health and restoration in it. The day passed delightfully, and 
 we made steady way, with the almost level sandy banks of the 
 river about us, seldom relieved even by a palm tree.
 
 THE NILE SHUBRA. 83 
 
 For the sake of those who are curious about such matters, 
 I may mention that we had for our dinner even on 
 the Nile, a deliciously dressed curry, and some other very 
 pleasant contrivances, in which Ahmet was well skilled ; and 
 I profess the whole affair would have done credit to a more 
 distinguished cuisine than ours, which occupied a few 
 reserved square feet on the open deck, on which was erected 
 a very primitive charcoal stove, consisting of a layer or 
 foundation of a few bricks, surmounted by a kind of large oval 
 bason, of burnt clay, into which ignited charcoal was laid. 
 Upon this, the boiling apparatus was placed one vessel 
 serving in its way, for many purposes, by the time dinner 
 was served. On one occasion, a squall of wind made the 
 boat suddenly lurch, so as to throw our boiling pot off the 
 fire ; and nearly sent it and its contents a promising pair 
 of chickens into the river; and actually cast overboard, 
 irretrievably, the whole supply of sailor's bread, stowed in a 
 barrel : so that we had to share ours with the crew, till we 
 touched at a village and obtained fresh supplies. 
 
 We continued to make way as favourably as could be 
 expected, on a river which is subject to the most capricious 
 changes of wind. Sometimes we sailed sometimes the crew 
 leapt overboard, and bound the towing ropes about them 
 rushing up the banks and over the heights with the wildest 
 alacrity imaginable. Again and again, we came to a dead 
 stand, when sailing and towing were alike impracticable. 
 
 On the morning of the second of May, I was awakened 
 early, after a few hours repose in spite of my industrious 
 enemies in the cabin, and hastened to wash sleep from my 
 eyelids, in the soft and refreshing waters of the Nile. It 
 was a lovely morning ; and Ali cheered me by the promise, 
 that soon my eyes would rest upon a distant view of the 
 Pyramids of Ghiseh. We were, at this time, just within sight 
 of Shubra the palace and gardens of Mehemet Ali. The 
 appearance of this royal residence, from the Nile, is anything 
 but pleasing; and presents but little shew of state. It is
 
 84 THE NILE SHUBRA PYRAMIDS BOULAKH. 
 
 quite a departure from the Saracenic architecture, so common 
 in Cairo ; and a most apologetic attempt at the modern villa. 
 The Pacha has rather a taste for European design ; and yet 
 cannot quite tear himself away from the oriental. This royal 
 retreat is several miles from Cairo, and is the usual residence 
 of Mehemet Ali, rather than the citadel, in which his murder 
 of the Mamelukes was perpetrated. Perhaps there are gloomy 
 associations of idea connected with the latter, which would 
 on all accounts render it no very pleasant residence, should 
 his conscience at any time awaken upon him. 
 
 Leaving Shubra on the left, we descried the distant 
 minarets of Boulakh the port of Cairo; and, standing 
 on the deck, I caught the first glance of part of Gebel 
 Mokattum, and the Pyramids of Ghiseh those mysterious 
 monuments of a far-gone day. To the mind that has always 
 associated an idea of vastness with that of the Pyramids 
 of Egypt, their first appearance is very unsatisfactory. The 
 clearness of the atmosphere has the effect of seemingly 
 presenting distant objects at an unreal point of nearness 
 which of course seriously affects our ideas of magnitude. 
 Certainly the expanse of level country which lay between 
 the low bank of the Nile and the Pyramids, with here and 
 there groves of palm scattered about, gave a distinct notion 
 of the distance, which the atmosphere seemed to deny ; and 
 far away stood the venerable structures of hoar antiquity, 
 appearing like small white hills or rocks, carefully cut down 
 into the pyramidal shape. However as our intended stay at 
 Cairo gave promise of a nearer view of them, I was content to 
 wait patiently for a different impression. By a bend in the river, 
 I soon lost sight of these remarkable monuments, and there lay 
 Boulakh ; and beyond it, as if in continuation, Cairo Grand 
 Cairo itself, the city of the Khalifs, with its minarets, domes, 
 and towers, and occasional clumps of palm trees, waving 
 in the slightly moving breeze. Our voyage on the Nile 
 terminated at Boulakh, where the boat was soon moored 
 the baggage disembarked, and our " backshecch" distributed 
 among the truly civil and well-conducted crew, who quitted
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 85 
 
 us with smiling courtesy and salaams. Some time before 
 we set foot on shore, we were half deafened by the 
 uproarious cries of Arab throats of all calibres, amongst 
 whom was a wordy strife as to who should have the honour 
 of conducting us and our possessions to Cairo. In the midst 
 of this scene it was amusing enough to see Ali laying about 
 him on all shoulders with his cane picking, choosing, and 
 ordering with as much importance, as if he were the great 
 man of the Pacha himself. Donkeys and mules enough 
 were soon selected ; the baggage fairly stowed on the latter, 
 and we ourselves mounted on the former ; and then began 
 our procession, at the head of which rode Ali Mahommed, 
 dressed in his smartest attire, in which scarlet and white 
 predominated, with a long bamboo in his hand, cutting a 
 clear path for us through the moving masses of orientals by 
 whom we were surrounded. He dealt his blows right and 
 left, both upon man and beast ; and while I expected that 
 suddenly some resentful spirit would return the compliment, 
 perhaps with interest, every one seemed tacitly to admit the 
 persuasiveness of the appeal, and permitted us to pass on 
 without interruption. The scene was half comic, half grave ; 
 and every object which presented itself the dry, sandy soil, 
 the domed and minareted masses of Saracenic building the 
 occasional palm trees, and the deep blue sky, warmed and 
 glowing towards the horizon, presenting a recollection of those 
 day-dreams which one had conceived in earlier years ; while 
 Arabs, Turks, Copts, Jews, and Dervishes in all the varieties 
 of eastern costume, lent their aid to make the picture 
 complete. Following our leader, and winding through narrow, 
 overhung streets, and crossing open spaces, we soon reached 
 the European Hotel, where we had determined to reside while 
 making preparations for the Desert route. 
 
 The population of Cairo, the greater part of which is 
 generally visible out of doors, appears redundant. It is 
 estimated at about two hundred and twenty thousand, 
 including Copts, Jews, Turks, and Egyptian Moslems. The 
 streets of the city, are for the most part exceedingly narrow,
 
 86 GKAND CAIRO. 
 
 particularly those which are occupied by bazaars; where 
 the mingled odour of fruits, tobacco, and various other 
 articles of merchandise is anything but grateful. It requires 
 great tact and heedfulness to make way in the streets, 
 especially if on foot. The very easiest thing imaginable, is to 
 get one's toes crushed by the foot of a barb, or to be scampered 
 over by donkeys in full canter, urged on by their shouting 
 drivers ; or quietly walked down by a camel, with his dreamy 
 step, and his nose in the air. Every body seems to be in 
 everybody's way ; and yet all escape wonderfully. In Cairo, 
 as in all other oriental towns, multitudes of wolf-like dogs 
 lie about the streets not only in safe corners, but in the 
 most frequented ways; and it is a matter of the greatest 
 difficulty to arouse them from their half repose. The horses, 
 asses, and camels, are accustomed to this, and step most 
 cautiously to avoid crushing them. Vast as is the number 
 of wild and homeless dogs, and intense as the heat may 
 sometimes be, yet canine madness never prevails ; and not the 
 slightest fear is ever manifested by the crowding passengers 
 in the streets, though the dogs appear to be of the most 
 ferocious kind. At night, their howling and barking is 
 quite distressing, and effectually banishes sleep from all who 
 have the least tendency to be wakeful. Dogs are the only 
 scavengers in oriental towns. 
 
 If it were one's disposition to mention annoyances, a long 
 catalogue might soon be formed, of those which prevail in 
 Egypt, and especially in Cairo, its grand capital. The "plague 
 of flies " which we experienced, was no trifling matter ; and so 
 great were the numbers of these creatures, that at meal times 
 we required to have persons continually waving flappers, made 
 of the leaves of the palm tree, in order to eat in peace. At 
 night, the plague of musquitoes was terrible, notwithstanding 
 the usual precaution of musquito-curtains. After repeated 
 attacks of these insects, I found my hands severely ulcerated, 
 and so swollen that I could scarcely draw on my gloves. 
 The Arabs ascribed this affection to the water of the Nile, 
 which in Cairo is used for all purposes. They have no other.
 
 GRAND CAIRO. 87 
 
 Many cutaneous disorders are said to be the effect of the 
 same cause. The Nile water is delicious for drinking, when 
 properly filtered. Dr. E. D. Clarke remarks, that however 
 carefully the Nile water may be purified, by rubbing the 
 interior of the water-vessels with bruised almonds, which 
 precipitates the mud, yet then it is never quite clear. I have, 
 however, in my possession, a small bottle of Nile water, 
 which accompanied me in all my route, and it even now 
 has the appearance of the clearest crystal. Upon analysis, 
 the Nile water has been found to contain the carbonates 
 of magnesia, lime, and iron ; the muriate of soda ; and a small 
 portion of silex and alumine. 
 
 To walk through the streets of Cairo, one would imagine 
 that externally it had undergone no change for ages. It 
 has the air of a primitive place, both in regard to its 
 architecture and its inhabitants. The upper stories of the 
 houses project so much, that the occupiers might almost 
 step from one to the other. But then, this helps to keep 
 the streets cool, by shutting out the intense heat of the 
 vertical sun. Though crowded by an incessantly moving 
 population, the streets seldom have the feel of suffocating 
 heat. The windows of the houses have, for the most part, no 
 glass, but consist of wooden lattice-work, often richly carved 
 and ornamented, projecting somewhat like small oriel 
 windows in Gothic architecture. This too, gives a complete 
 idea of coolness and comfort. The houses themselves are 
 chiefly Saracenic, built of very solid masonry, in large massive 
 blocks of stone ; and often the doors, or main entrances, are 
 much enriched with carved work. The principal houses are 
 quadrangular ; and a spacious court, open at the top, affords 
 communication to every part of the habitation. 1 
 
 1 Dr. E. D. Clarke remarks, on the authority of Denon, that "the taste shewn 
 in decorating their apartments, is of the kind called Arabesque : this, although 
 early introduced into England from the East, is not Saracenical, but Egyptian. 
 It is a style which the Greeks themselves adopted ; and it was received among 
 the Romans in the time of Augustus."
 
 88 GRAND CAIRO RHODA ISLAND BATH. 
 
 One of our first expeditions in Cairo, was to the gardens 
 of Ibrahim Pacha, the son of Mehemet AH occupying a 
 considerable part of Rhoda Island, on the bank of which, as 
 asserted by almost undisputed tradition, the child Moses was 
 found, by Pharaoh's daughter. From this spot, a very striking 
 and picturesque view of Cairo is obtained; and all was 
 rendered very animating on account of a festal season, during 
 which, it is customary for the gardens of Ehoda Island to be 
 thrown open to the public. A vast assemblage of people, 
 of all classes, were thronging about some in parties seated 
 in circles, under the shade of spreading trees, laughing, 
 jesting smoking; while others were pacing along in slow 
 and stately march, from avenue to avenue, in all the glitter 
 and colour of orientalism. The greatest decorum prevailed; 
 and it was pleasant to see that neither leaf nor flower suffered 
 violence at the hands of the numerous visitors. The gardens 
 are very extensive ; and are laid out, partly in European and 
 partly in oriental taste; and irrigation is carefully provided 
 for by the digging of small canals or trenches, which are kept 
 well supplied with water. The trees, of various kinds some 
 native and others foreign, appeared to thrive remarkably well. 
 The pomegranates were full of their richly-tinted blossoms. 
 The roses, among which there was but little variety, were 
 mostly fading away, having already enjoyed their blossoming 
 time. The climate was delightful, and added much to the 
 charm of a scene so novel and picturesque. 
 
 Among the luxurious comforts of Cairo, the public baths 
 claim pre-eminence. They are resorted to by all classes 
 frequent ablutions of the person forming part, and a prominent 
 part too, of the external ceremonies of Mahommedanism. 
 Perhaps nothing more refreshing can be conceived of in a 
 warm climate, than the Egyptian or Turkish tepid bath. Some 
 of my readers may be amused by a description of the process 
 attending it. On entering the bath house, you are conducted 
 to a spacious outer room, fitted all round with dewans, 
 raised about two feet from the floor. Seated on one of these, 
 you prepare for the bath; and when about to remove the
 
 GKAND CAIRO BATH. 89 
 
 last articles of dress, one of the bathers approaches you 
 generally a strong and powerful Arab and wraps you round 
 in the folds of a piece of dry linen, something like a small 
 sheet. He then presents you with a pair of clogs, with 
 wooden soles ; in which, when you have inserted your feet, he 
 supports and leads you over slippery marble floors, to an inner 
 room also paved and fitted up with marble, in the middle 
 of which is a large tank or reservoir of hot water, and into 
 which a stream is continually flowing. The temperature of the 
 inner room is high, and steamy well calculated to occasion 
 faintness in those who are not very strong. You are now 
 quite in the power of the bather, who places you in a recumbent 
 posture on the marble floor, just at the brink of the reservoir, 
 and begins rubbing the face, beard and head with palm soap; 
 and if shaving be needful, he performs that operation first. 
 The body is then rubbed all over, for a quarter of an 
 hour or so, with the hands, upon which are gloves, with a 
 very rough surface, made of camel's hair, and saturated with 
 palm soap. You are next seated on the marble floor, when 
 the bather kneels behind you; and, grasping you in his 
 arms, and placing his knee firmly against your loins, stretches 
 the vertebrae of the back. Next, by a dexterous movement, 
 he passes his arm over your shoulders folds your arms 
 backwards, and stretches the shoulder blades as much as 
 they will comfortably bear. Then, continuing the friction 
 of the body a little longer, he bids you step into the tank, at 
 a temperature of nearly one hundred, where you remain up 
 to the chin for about a quarter of an hour. You are then 
 made to recline again upon the brink, when the body is once 
 more gently rubbed over with palm soap, and you are sent 
 into the tank for five minutes more. As soon as you step 
 out of it, the bather envelopes you in folds of dry linen, 
 and binds also a bandage of the same about the head; and 
 thus, swathed from head to foot, you are led back to the outer 
 room, and placed in a reclining posture on the dewan, where 
 you at first undressed, and a shesheh or a chibouk, with a cup 
 of coffee, are immediately served, while the remainder of the 
 operation is effected. The sedative effect of the mild tobacco
 
 90 BATH BEDAWEEN ARABS. 
 
 and coffee is very agreeable after the bath. The remaining 
 process consists in first kneading the muscles of the body and 
 limbs, with the strong and practised hands of the bathers, for 
 about ten minutes. Next the soles of the feet are rubbed 
 gently with the hand, and then with a rough brush. Then 
 the palms of the hands are rubbed in the same manner, 
 and sometimes the joints are pulled and twisted till they 
 crack. During all this process you recline in a state of 
 almost dreamy composure, wrapped in linen, which by this 
 time has become nearly dry. A small toilet glass is then 
 handed to you, by which to adjust your hair and beard, if you 
 have any, and the operation is complete. It is impossible 
 to describe the sense of refreshment which pervades the 
 whole system, after this lengthened, and perhaps rather 
 tedious affair. 
 
 The fact of European travellers having arrived at Cairo, in 
 their way to the Great Desert, was soon known to the 
 Bedaween Arabs who happened to be in the city; and on 
 one occasion, when, after an excursion, we returned to our 
 hotel, we found a party of them, with a young Sheikh, 
 sitting in a circle on the dust in the court-yard. This was 
 the first sight I had of the Bedaween Arabs. They were 
 awaiting our arrival, in order to tender their services as an 
 escort. They rose up in a body as we approached, and 
 immediately surrounded us, with courteous salaams ; and the 
 young wild-eyed Sheikh presented the testimonials of his 
 fidelity and trustworthiness which he had received under the 
 hands of some Europeans whom he had recently escorted. 
 The first sight of a party of Bedaween Arabs is startling, 
 and calculated to awaken a timid feeling in the mind of a 
 stranger. But a Bedawee, in a city, is after all, very unlike 
 himself when in the desert. Averse to stone walls and roofed 
 houses, these wild birds seem as if they were cribbed and 
 confined. Their steps are measured, slow, and suspicious. 
 They lose their energy and spirit when away from the 
 wilderness, in which they usually pass their days of wandering 
 existence.
 
 BEDAWEEN ARABS. 91 
 
 As I shall have frequent occasion to mention the Bedaween, 
 under whose escort alone a safe journey through the 
 Arabian Desert is to be effected, I will here describe their 
 general appearance and manners at least the appearance 
 and manners of those with whom I became most familiar. 
 Amongst the almost endless variety of tribes who wander in 
 the Desert, there are personal and conventional varieties; 
 though in the main, they have many of their principal 
 characteristics in common, as descendants from one stock. 
 It is now, I believe, generally agreed that they are all the 
 progeny of Ishmael ; and certainly they may be spoken of as 
 having their hand against every man, and every man's hand 
 against them. 
 
 They are for the most part, straight, upright, and gracefully 
 formed. I have never met with a lame or deformed Bedawee. 
 They are generally of a spare habit, muscular and sinewy. 
 Their skins are of a fine rich brown, very like the colour 
 of the carefully roasted coffee berry. Frequently their skin has 
 almost a transparent appearance, and is capable of exhibiting 
 emotion, in the rushing of the blood to the cheeks. Their 
 eyes are well set in their heads, and are sparkling, 
 burning, quick, and intelligent. They have mostly thin spare 
 beards, which they wear untrimmed. They possess immense 
 energy and activity, and are capable of enduring fatigue; 
 all of which, their most abstemious habits tend to cherish. 
 Their step, when in the Desert, is firm, agile and graceful. 
 They walk as nature intended. They have never been 
 drilled into awkwardness by dancing and posture masters. 
 Every muscle, tendon and sinew, performs its proper office. 
 If asked to mention the best specimen of untortured, manly, 
 gracefulness of bearing I have ever met with, I would try 
 and depict a young healthy Bedawee Arab. And their 
 simple attire is as graceful as their persons, though consisting 
 of but slender and uncostly materials. Next to the skin they 
 wear a tunic or shirt of unbleached coarse linen, open at the 
 throat and chest, and extending a little below the knees, the 
 legs being left bare. The sleeves are wide and flowing, and
 
 92 BEDAWEEN AKABS. 
 
 admit of being thrown up to the shoulder, so as to leave the 
 arm unincumbered, when needed for the use of the sabre. 
 This garment is gathered round the loins by a broad stiff 
 leathern girdle, in which is fixed the long crooked knife, with 
 a blade of about eighteen inches long a fearful weapon in a 
 dexterous hand. From the girdle is suspended also the flint 
 and steel for firing their matchlock guns ; and also a pouch for 
 tobacco, commonly made of lizard skin. Slung from the neck, 
 they wear a belt containing several rounds of ammunition ; 
 while by the side is usually suspended a strong iron-hilted 
 sabre, and behind the shoulders a long matchlock gun, some- 
 times ornamented with bits of mother-o'-pearl. On the head 
 they wear the tarbouch, or skull cap, made of crimson felt, 
 with a blue tassel at the crown, round which is bound a shawl 
 or turban. Some, instead of the latter, wear the keffieh, which 
 is a handkerchief, often of rich colours, placed diagonally open 
 over the head. The foremost corner is thrown back, and the 
 whole is left to fall in graceful folds over the shoulders, and 
 bound round the temples by a fillet of camel's hair twisted 
 into a rope. This latter head dress is far more common among 
 the Arabs on both sides of the river Jordan, than among 
 those of the more southern parts of the Desert. The attire 
 of all Bedaween, except the very poorest, is completed by an 
 outside flowing mantle, of a very graceful shape sometimes 
 blue, now and then crimson but more commonly of a fawn 
 colour, marked with broad stripes of dark brown. The former 
 are generally of woollen cloth; the latter of camel's hair. 
 They commonly go barefoot ; but those who can afford such 
 a luxury, have sandals of fish skin, which are made at Tor, 
 in the peninsula of Sinai. They however use them only 
 occasionally, when the sands are intensely hot, or the 
 mountain-passes sharp and rugged. With such a costume so 
 picturesque and graceful, it is no wonder that they should 
 produce, at first, a startling effect upon a European mind, 
 when seen in connection with their wild-bird-o'th' -wilderness 
 bearing. Their garments appear as if they had never been 
 new they are so frayed and worn ; and often are little better 
 than a bundle of rags yet not the less graceful for that;
 
 SHEIKH HUSSEIN. 93 
 
 and their weapons, doubtless, have passed from father to son, 
 for several generations. 
 
 We did not avail ourselves of the tendered services of the 
 party of Bedaween whom we had found awaiting us, having 
 learnt that Sheikh Hussein the powerful chief of the Oualed 
 Said, one of the tribes inhabiting the peninsula of Mount 
 Sinai, was then in Cairo, under orders for escorting an 
 English nobleman through the same route on which we had 
 resolved. We were recommended to obtain and act upon 
 the advice of Sheikh Hussein as to making up our caravan, 
 and selecting our escort ; for the purpose of securing which, 
 we sent a polite message to this venerable and celebrated 
 chief, who courteously answered our summons without delay. 
 Though we could not have the benefit of his personal escort, 
 yet I was glad to have an opportunity of seeing and conversing 
 with him ; for he had escorted Mr. Stephens, the American 
 traveller, Lord Lindsay, Mr. D. Roberts, whose pencilled 
 scenes in the east have immortalized him and Mr. Kinnear, 
 the author of one of the pleasantest and most sensibly 
 written books I have met with, intituled " Cairo, Petra and 
 Damascus, in 1839." The appearance of Sheikh Hussein 
 was calm, quiet, and prepossessing. There was an ease and 
 mildness about him which was very taking; and a smile 
 of dignified affability was upon his lip. He was a study 
 for a painter in his happiest mood. His dress was old and 
 faded ; but strictly after the manner of the Bedaween. His 
 large iron-hilted sabre, slung by a rude belt of undressed 
 leather, appeared as if it had been drawn in a thousand frays ; 
 and seemed scarcely to belong to one so gentle and peaceful 
 in appearance as Sheikh Hussein. His cheeks were as 
 brown as the deepest coloured mahogany or chocolate: his 
 beard grizzled and flowing, and his eyes intensely bright and 
 sparkling. He was thin and sinewy, as if all the animal 
 juices of his body had been dried up by the scorching rays 
 of his native sun. On his neck and bare chest, the skin 
 seemed as if tightly stretched, and glued to the bones. 
 On entering the room, he extended his right hand and
 
 94 SHEIKH HUSSEIN. 
 
 gave us the usual salaam, and we exchanged with him 
 the customary salutation, which consists in striking gently 
 the palm of each other's extended hand, and then pressing 
 one's own hand first upon the lips, and next upon the fore- 
 head. We all seated ourselves for the conference, and pipes 
 and coffee, according to the oriental custom, were served. 
 Unlike most of the Bedaween, Sheikh Hussein is no smoker ; 
 but as it is deemed uncourteous to refuse an offered pipe, he 
 just put it to his lips, took one whiff, and laid it aside. 
 Addressing him through an interpreter, we explained our 
 wishes as to the Desert route, and begged his counsel and 
 advice. He assured us that the route to Jerusalem (El 
 Khoddes) by way of Mount Sinai (Gebel Mousa), Akabah, 
 "Wadey Mousa, and Hebron (El Khalil), was perfectly safe, 
 and that the temperature of the season was quite suitable. 
 He strongly recommended that we should put ourselves under 
 the care of Sheikh Suleiman Mengid, the chief of another 
 of the tribes, whose territory is in the peninsula of Sinai, 
 who, he said, was then in Cairo. With all the novelty of such 
 an expedition before us, demanding the utmost confidence 
 in those who should be our escort, it may be easily supposed 
 that we listened with great interest to the conversation of our 
 new friend, whom we looked upon as a specimen of those to 
 whom we were about to commit our persons and property, 
 in a country where little else than the law of the sword 
 prevails. We begged Hussein to introduce us to Sheikh 
 Suleiman, which he promised to do ; and, after a few minutes 
 of further conversation, he rose to depart, again exchanging 
 with us the usual salutations. 
 
 For several days the hot khamseen wind had been 
 blowing most oppressively. The thermometer stood at 
 ninety Fahrenheit, in the shade I know not at what in the 
 sun. The very thought of the Desert at such a time, was 
 scorching. 
 
 On the day after Sheikh Hussein's visit, he returned to 
 us, bringing with him Sheikh Suleiman, as our proposed
 
 SHEIKH SULEIMAN MENGTD. 95 
 
 escort, first to Mount Sinai, and thence to Akabah. Suleiman 
 was one of the most portly and majestic Arabs I have ever 
 seen. He was dressed in an under garment or cassock of 
 crimson, bound round the waist with a shawl, in which were 
 placed his pistols and crooked knife. Over this he wore the 
 usual purple mantle, in full picturesque folds, and a turban 
 formed of a cashmere shawl. After a brief conversation, and 
 interchange of civilities, we proceeded direct to the British 
 Consulate, for the purpose of making our contract in a formal 
 manner. A Bedawee Arab will haggle and drive the hardest 
 bargain, in order to get the very last piastre ; and for that 
 purpose will descend to almost any meanness; but when 
 once the contract is made with him, he honestly fulfils it 
 to the minutest particular ; and considers that he has enlisted 
 himself life and heart in your service. 
 
 Though I had in some degree familiarized my mind, by 
 previous reading, with the Desert route, and with the habits 
 and customs of the Arabs, yet I confess there was almost an 
 uneasy sensation in my mind, as we went with these two 
 mighty chiefs both fit subjects for the pencil of Salvator Rosa 
 himself to the cancellaria of the British Consul, for the 
 purpose of signing and sealing our preliminary arrangements. 
 Again and again I felt, how vain is the help of man ; and how 
 entirely it became us to see that, in prospect of such an 
 expedition, we were resting on the, arm of a covenant God. 
 
 Our contract was soon made, and consisted of the following 
 particulars : Sheikh Suleiman was to give us safe conduct 
 direct to Mount Sinai, where we were to stay three 
 days at the least; next, to the fort of Akabah, at the 
 eastern gulph of the Red Sea, where we were to stay two 
 days at least ; and there to determine upon our future route, 
 either through Edom, or otherwise. Sheikh Suleiman was to 
 provide a suitable supply of camels, proportioned to our 
 numbers and baggage, and an efficient escort of Arabs, of his 
 tribe. The hire for each camel was to be two hundred and 
 fifty piastres, that is, about two pounds ten shillings, English.
 
 96 PREPARATIONS FOR THE DESERT. 
 
 Should additional camels be at any time wanted, they were to 
 be supplied at the same rate. And it was stipulated, that in 
 the event of our staying more than three days at Mount Sinai, 
 or two at Akabah, we were to pay ten piastres per day for 
 each camel, in addition to the price already contracted for. 
 When these various matters were all agreed on, they were 
 reduced to writing, in the form of a regular contract, first in 
 Arabic, and then in English. The former was read over to 
 Sheikh Suleiman, who listened with great gravity of attention ; 
 and then, laying his hand first on his heart, and next on his 
 head, as a token and pledge of fidelity, said " Tayeeb, 
 tayeeb " very good, very good. And when we had affixed 
 our signatures to the document, the Sheikh drew from under 
 his girdle, a small brass seal, engraved with Arabic characters 
 his name and style, I suppose from which an impression 
 was made on the paper. This act was duly registered in the 
 cancellaria. This matter of business having been fully 
 arranged, and the tenth of May fixed as the day of our 
 departure, we separated with mutual satisfaction the Sheikh 
 to his bivouac, on the borders of the Desert, and we to the 
 bazaars, to make the remaining needful purchases for our 
 expedition bearing in mind, that if any thing should be 
 forgotten, no bazaars would be found by the way. 
 
 To those who are accustomed to the ease and safety 
 of European travelling, the preparations for a Desert route 
 are of a very novel kind. Our provisions consisted of casks 
 of biscuit, rice, maccaroni, vermicelli, pasta, dried fruits, coffee ; 
 and tobacco, for the Arabs, in abundance; a canteen with 
 plates, dishes, knives, forks, spoons, and cooking vessels, a 
 cofiee pot, charcoal for cooking, block tin basons for washing, 
 a large supply of well-seasoned skins for water (new ones 
 being objectionable on account of the rancid taste they are 
 apt to impart to the water), Arab umbrellas, rudely made 
 of green and white cotton stuff, to protect the face against 
 the sun ; porous water bottles made of baked earth, to be 
 slung at the saddle, which, by evaporation, keep the water 
 comparatively cool for immediate use ; a firm well-constructed
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR THE DESERT. 97 
 
 tent for ourselves, and another for our servants, with camp 
 stools and a table made to fold up with the tent ; segaddehs or 
 prayer-carpets used by the Musselmans to form part of our 
 beds by night, and saddles by day; mattresses and light 
 coverlids, and nicely constructed framework, made of split 
 branches of the palm tree, to protect our bedding from damp 
 and vermin; Arab lamps, to be suspended in the tents at 
 night, and a good store of wax candles and oil; pistols, 
 sabres, ammunition, and Arab attire, which our friends in 
 Alexandria and Cairo advised us to assume. The costume 
 which I wore was that of a Khowaga, or merchant of Cairo, 
 consisting of white linen trousers of very spacious dimensions, 
 yellow morocco slippers next my feet, and scarlet ones over 
 them ; a cassock of rich crimson and yellow Damascus stuff, 
 bound round the waist with a long silk scarf of variegated 
 colours, and over it a flowing robe of olive coloured cloth ; 
 a white turban and tarbouch, or crimson-felt skull cap, with 
 a close linen cap within it affording the most comfortable 
 dress for the head (which was shaved according to the oriental 
 custom), and protecting very effectually against the intense 
 heat of the sun. 
 
 The next thing was to secure experienced and trustworthy 
 servants; for upon success in this particular, much of the 
 comfort of the traveller depends. The Arab servants bear, 
 in general, a bad character, although most of them contrive 
 somehow to have fair testimonials. We agreed with one 
 as our dragoman, or principal, whose testimonials were 
 many, and highly satisfactory an active, intelligent, and 
 experienced man, well acquainted not only with the Desert 
 route, but with Syria and Palestine also. In addition to his 
 other qualifications, he spoke very understandable English, 
 and better Italian. He had Bedaween blood in his veins, and 
 a dash of Quixotism in his character. Hassenein certainly 
 prepossessed me much in his favour from the beginning, and 
 never disappointed me. Upon his recommendation we agreed 
 with a second, as cook; and if ever there was a faithful 
 Arab servant, Abd'lawahyed (pronounced Abd'lo-a-heitJ was 
 
 H
 
 98 CAIRO SLAVE MARKET. 
 
 one ; and a cook, moreover, who need not, after a little practice, 
 blush in a European cuisine, if ever he should get there. 
 Throughout the whole of their attendance upon us, they 
 never deserved a syllable of rebuke ; but all the praise we 
 could bestow. 
 
 I have given a special page to this description of our 
 preparations for the route, because, so far as I know, 
 travellers have been but scanty in their information on such 
 matters ; and I fancy what I have mentioned will be useful to 
 others who may be meditating such a tour. 
 
 While engaged in the bazaars, we availed ourselves of an 
 opportunity of visiting the slave market of Cairo. It consists 
 of a quadrangular open space, surrounded with buildings, 
 affording places of retreat for those slaves especially, who are, 
 usually, less than others, exposed to the public gaze. There was 
 an air of wretchedness about the whole scene, heightened I dare 
 say, to my imagination, by those strong feelings with which 
 every Englishman, of healthy moral principle, regards slavery 
 in all its forms. The slaves offered for sale on the occasion 
 of our visit, consisted chiefly of Nubians and Abyssiuians, 
 of both sexes, and of almost all ages ; some of them intelligent 
 in their appearance, and possessing an air of vigour and 
 activity. It was an unquiet sensation which vibrated in my 
 heart, as I walked round from group to group, and mingled 
 with parties of Arabs, Turks, and Jews, who, with calculating 
 brows and scrutinizing glances, were satisfying themselves 
 as to the strength and value of the slaves much as jockeys 
 examine and judge of horses. We did not see any 
 bargains actually concluded; but quite enough to arouse 
 indignation. Alas ! for human nature, that it should be 
 so degraded. Some of the poor creatures looked quietly 
 submissive, and even cheerful ; while others appeared 
 depressed and gloomy. All knew they were to be 
 sold were born to be sold, and silently awaited their 
 destiny. If, in the present state of the east, slavery must 
 needs exist, it is a matter of no small satisfaction to know that
 
 CAIRO SLAVE MARKET SHUBRA GREEK CONVENT. 99 
 
 generally, slaves are well treated by their masters. But, 
 self-interest lies at the bottom of it; for they are the 
 property of their masters their money, in the form of human 
 flesh ; and few, however inhuman, would needlessly impair 
 the health of their slaves by cruelty or privation. 
 
 From the slave market, we proceeded, notwithstanding a 
 hot khamseen wind, which seemed like gusts of burning 
 vapour wafted from an oven, to explore the palace and gardens 
 of Mehemet Ali, at Shubra. The gardens are beautiful of their 
 kind, and more trim and formal than those of Ibrahim Pacha, 
 at Khoda. Straight lines prevail very much ; and the paths 
 are in many places paved with variegated pebbles. Lemon, 
 apricot, and other trees abounded, bearing fruit abundantly ; 
 while roses, jessamine, and various beautiful flowers lent 
 their aid to complete the effect. We could not obtain 
 admission to the whole of the palace ; but had the honour of 
 seating ourselves on the Pacha's dewan in one of his chambers 
 of audience. The palace gives but little idea of oriental 
 splendour ; and so far as we saw of it, was fitted up in the 
 poorest style of tawdry French decoration. 
 
 It is needful that all travellers intending to make a sojourn 
 in the convent of Santa Katarina at Mount Sinai, should take 
 with them a letter of introduction from the superior of the 
 Greek convent at Cairo. For the purpose of obtaining such 
 a credential, we resolved on paying a personal visit to 
 the worthy superior. Having arrived at the outer gate, 
 we found several brethren seated on a dewan, within, 
 dressed in the graceful costume of their order, and with fine 
 flowing beards, and hair streaming over their shoulders. 
 They performed the office of porters, or janitors. They 
 received us respectfully ; and when Hassenein informed 
 them of the purport of our visit, we were immediately 
 admitted; and one of them led the way through several 
 passages or corridors, in which were sundry other brethren 
 variously occupied, till at length he ushered us into 
 the chamber of audience, at the further part of which
 
 100 CAIRO GREEK CONVENT. 
 
 was a raised dewan, and at the right hand corner of it, 
 on the floor, a separate set of cushions and carpets with 
 a low table and writing materials near at hand. The apart- 
 ment was delightfully cool ; and its whitewashed walls were 
 decorated with curious old and rudely executed pictures 
 of scripture subjects, and crucifixes. One of the pictures, and 
 apparently the most ancient, was intended to represent 
 Mount Sinai, Horeb, and the Convent of Santa Katarina, in 
 which every rule of perspective was most amusingly set at 
 nought. "We had but little time for observation, ere the 
 superior made his appearance ; and, after receiving us with 
 every token of respectful attention, bade us seat ourselves on 
 the dewan, and took his own place on the low cushions 
 beside the writing table; while near him, sat one of the 
 brethren, a fine, intelligent looking, white-bearded* old man 
 of about sixty, as Arabic interpreter. The superior was a 
 younger man, and of a very kindly and prepossessing 
 countenance. Our dragoman was desired to step up upon the 
 dewan, and to open the conference. He informed the superior 
 that we were two English gentlemen, making a pilgrimage to 
 Jerusalem, by way of Mount Sinai and Akabah, and desiring 
 to share the hospitality of the brethren of Santa Katarina. 
 The superior courteously replied, that he should be gratified 
 in giving us a letter of recommendation ; inquired our names, 
 which he took down in writing, and promised that the letter 
 should be ready for us on the morrow. A lay-brother then 
 entered the room, bearing a salver, on which were presented 
 to us preserved cherries, spring water, and arakee a pleasant 
 spirit distilled from dates, of which we partook ; and having 
 conversed briefly about England and English travellers, the 
 aged brother, who sat near the superior, handed us delicious 
 coffee. When we had finished it, he rose again from his 
 seat to receive the empty cups, with great humility of 
 manner. I presume this is one of the usual formalities of their 
 hospitality. It was altogether a simple and primitive scene. 
 There were we two English clergymen, in the midst of Grand 
 Cairo strangers yet received with all hospitality by those 
 simple monks, as if we had been known to them from our
 
 PYRAMIDS OF GHTSEH. 101 
 
 youth. I could but think of the words " I was a stranger, 
 and ye took me in." We soon afterwards rose to depart, 
 expressing in the best way we were able, our sense of obliga- 
 tion for the kindness we had experienced. The superior and 
 brethren cordially bade us farewell, and a " bon voyage." 
 
 Having now made every arrangement for our journey, and 
 having time at our disposal, we resolved on making our visit 
 to the Pyramids of Ghiseh. If there be anything venerable 
 in antiquity, then these wonderful structures are venerable 
 indeed. I felt, in preparing for the visit, I was not about to 
 bring the learning of an acute antiquary to bear on them. I 
 knew that learning had nearly exhausted its resources, and 
 that still they are overhung with a veil of deepest mystery. 
 I could visit them, therefore, only with the strong feelings 
 of a man interested in all that concerns the by-gone history 
 of his species. 
 
 A journey of about ten English miles, south-west of Cairo, 
 or, during the inundation of the Nile, a circuit of twenty, 
 brings the traveller to the Pyramids of Ghiseh. It was a 
 lovely bright morning, on the seventh of May, when, at six 
 o'clock, we set out on our expedition, mounted on the 
 strongest donkeys we could procure the ordinary means 
 of locomotion in Cairo, as well as in Alexandria. As we 
 passed through the streets, even at that early hour, the 
 whole population seemed to be abroad, engaged in their 
 various callings. What struck me most, was the abundance 
 of stalls and bazaars, piled up with immense supplies of 
 water-melons, cucumbers of enormous length and size, and 
 other fruits of the season, of which, the people eat abundantly, 
 even while walking in the streets, or sitting in parties in the 
 dust. As we approached nearer to the suburbs, great numbers 
 of men and women, in their picturesque attire, were entering 
 the city, bearing vast additional contributions of these various 
 kinds of fruit, so adapted to the climate and the simple 
 wants of the people. I thought of the children of Israel, and 
 their discontented desire after the provisions of Egypt, which
 
 102 OLD CAIRO DERVISHES. 
 
 they missed in the Desert " And the mixed multitude that 
 was among them fell a lusting; and the children of Israel 
 also wept again, and said, Who shall give us flesh to eat ? 
 We remember the fish which we did eat in Egypt freely ; the 
 cucumbers and the melons, and the leeks and the onions, and 
 the garlick" 1 
 
 Our way towards the Pyramids lay through Old Cairo, 
 which is now a kind of port, or landing place, on the banks 
 of the river, and near Rhoda Island. We had to cross the 
 Nile at this point by a ferry boat ; and, having reached the 
 opposite bank, were borne on the backs of waiting Arabs 
 through the shallow water, and safely landed. Having 
 proceeded a short distance along a road winding amidst date 
 groves, our attention was drawn to the sound of a reed-pipe, 
 accompanied by the beating of tabours ; and soon we found a 
 large crowd assembled, in the midst of which was a party 
 of Dervishes, engaged in what, among Musselmans, is accounted 
 a religious service. It was a " calling for God" as our 
 dragoman informed us, in reference to the rising of the Nile. 
 Happy are the people who, in calling upon God, know how 
 to draw near him through One "who ever liveth to make 
 intercession." When we approached the crowd, we found the 
 Dervishes formed into a circle, swaying themselves from 
 side to side in the most excited manner, with their eyes 
 closed, uttering groans and cries and ejaculations, which 
 mingled strangely with the sounds of the pipe and tabour. 
 This violent exercise was continued for a length of time, till 
 all the party seemed exhausted, and utterly unconscious 
 of external objects. While we stood witnessing this strange 
 ceremony, an Arab came to us from the crowd soliciting 
 money, to whom our dragoman, as a good Musselman, flung 
 a few paras. One could not contemplate such an assembly, 
 without a prayerful longing for the day when all shall know 
 the Lord, as he has revealed himself in Christ from the 
 least to the greatest. 
 
 * Numbers xi. 4 6.
 
 EGYPTIAN HARVEST PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH. 103 
 
 Leaving this strange scene, we went on through an arid 
 and wilderness-like route, with here and there a palm or 
 date, and occasionally a fig tree, abounding with unripe fruit. 
 At length we reached an Arab village squalid and wretched- 
 looking, surrounded by cultivated lands to a considerable 
 extent, upon which the labourers were gathering in the spare 
 crops of poor stunted barley. They do not cut the corn with 
 a sickle, or any other instrument, but pluck it up by the 
 roots in handfuls, and bind it, without being made into 
 sheaves, on the backs of camels. This custom seemed to 
 illustrate Eccles. iii. 2: "A time to plant, and a time to 
 pluck up that which is planted:" and Jeremiah xxiv. 6, 
 " For I will set mine eyes upon them [Israel] for good, and I 
 will bring them again to this land ; and I will build them, and 
 not pull them down ; and I will plant them, and not pluck 
 them up" In most parts of the east which we subsequently 
 visited, the same custom very generally prevailed in the 
 harvest fields. 
 
 Beyond this harvest scene, the face of the country was very 
 parched and dreary. The land was gaping in wide fissures, by 
 reason of the heat to which it had been exposed, and waiting 
 for the efflux of the Nile. It was indeed " a dry and thirsty 
 land, where no water is." The Pyramids were, and had been, 
 for a considerable time in sight ; but my mind involuntarily 
 yielded again to the sense of disappointment which I had 
 experienced when I caught the first glance of them from 
 the river. They appeared positively insignificant in their 
 dimensions, standing as they did on the far-stretching surface 
 of the Lybian Desert. The extreme clearness of the atmos- 
 phere gave them such an appearance of proximity, as made 
 us suppose we were on the point of reaching them, when in 
 fact a space of two or three miles intervened. And it was 
 not until standing at the very base, and examining the vast 
 dimensions of separate stones, and suffering the eye to wander 
 up to the summit, that we became capable of receiving a due 
 impression of their magnitude. And even then, the mind 
 needed to have time to dilate itself for the purpose of accurate
 
 104 PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH. 
 
 perception. The plan of the Pyramids is that of a perfect 
 square; and is a continuation of square upon square each 
 one contracting in certain dimensions, till the last terminates 
 nearly in a point. The ascertained dimensions of the Pyramid 
 of Cheops, which is the largest, are seven hundred and fifty-two 
 feet at the base, which being nearly square, would give about 
 three thousand feet for its four sides ; so that it occupies a space 
 of more than thirteen acres. Its perpendicular height is about 
 five hundred and ninety feet about one hundred feet higher 
 thon the cross and ball on St. Paul's, in London, and about 
 twenty-three above the summit of St. Peter's, in Rome. 1 Some 
 idea of the magnitude of this stupendous work of early art may 
 be conceived, by supposing the area of Lincoln's-Inn-Fields 
 to be occupied by a pile of masonry, the base nearly coinciding 
 in dimensions with that area. And supposing this Pyramid 
 to be solid, and not to consist of chambers which have been 
 from time to time discovered, its contents would exceed three 
 millions of cubic yards of masonry. 
 
 Perhaps no ancient productions of human ingenuity 
 have been the subject of so many theories and conjectures 
 as these remarkable structures, on which the sweep of 
 ages has exercised no traceable power. The men of this 
 generation see in them what their founders saw ; and 
 while the world lasts, future generations will doubtless see 
 them as we do. They are almost the only things of human 
 origin which are insusceptible of change they possess in 
 themselves the elements of permanence. Whether they were 
 originally connected with the religious institutions of the 
 ancient Egyptians, as some have believed; or whether, as 
 others have imagined, they were only granaries for storing 
 
 1 The form of this immense mass prevents a very accurate measurement 
 without great labour and danger. Hence the various estimates which have 
 been made. Herodotus mentions its reputed height, in his time, to have been 
 eight hundred feet, and the width of each side of the base the same. Strabo 
 made it six hundred and twenty-five feet; but Diodorus reduces it to six 
 hundred. Many modem observers have agreed with Strabo, and some bring it 
 much below Diodorus.
 
 PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH. 105 
 
 corn ; or retreats in the event of another deluge, or too great 
 an efflux of the Nile ; or monuments to memorialize great 
 events; or temples for consulting oracles; or observatories 
 for astronomical purposes; or tombs and depositories of 
 ancient kings; or erected to the honour of the Patriarch 
 Joseph; or for the worship of the dog-star Sirius, denoting 
 the periodical rising of the Nile there is still an absence 
 of all conclusive proof; and so far as present and past 
 observations have gone, there is a like absence of all adequate 
 means for arriving at such proof. Yet, there they stand 
 still inviting, though incapable of satisfying, speculation. 
 Sir John Gardner Wilkinson, whose investigations are most 
 valuable and instructive on all matters relating to ancient 
 Egypt, sees sufficient reason for supposing that they were 
 erected by Suphis and his brother Sensuphis, about the year 
 2120, before the Christian era. Considering how utterly the 
 chronicles of men fail to carry the mind back accurately to 
 the period of their origin, it requires no great effort of the 
 imagination to conceive that they were gazed upon by 
 Abraham, while sojourning in Egypt ; by Joseph the ruler, 
 and his amazed brethren, and by Moses himself, when, under 
 the banner of Jehovah, he led forth Israel from the bondage 
 under which they groaned. And, if imagination may be 
 allowed thus to associate with the Pyramids the early facts 
 and personages of Bible history, we may at the same time take 
 the ground of certainty and say, they were beheld with wonder 
 and admiration, by Homer and Herodotus, by Pythagoras and 
 Plato ; that they were hoary antiquities even in their days, 
 and scarcely appear to have ever been young. 
 
 But I must pause on this subject, or fill my pages with 
 it alone; and still leave the reader's mind unsatisfied and 
 perplexed. 
 
 On approaching the Pyramids, we were surrounded by a 
 troop of wild Arabs, all eagerly tendering their services as 
 guides modern plagues of Egypt as they are. Again and 
 again I wished we could shake them off, and pursue our
 
 106 PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH. 
 
 object in peace; but it was a vain wish. " Backsheech 
 backsheech" 1 was the hateful word ever on their lips. The 
 Pyramids themselves were nothing to them, except for the 
 few piastres they might extort from the wondering visitor. 
 
 We had provided ourselves with wax tapers, for the purpose 
 of seeing so much of the interior of the great Pyramid of Cheops 
 as has been explored and developed by Belzoni, Caviglia, 
 Colonel Vyse, and others. By this dim and precarious light 
 we entered, with some of our troublesome guides, at the 
 sixteenth step, on the northern side, to which we ascended 
 by an inclined plane of sand and rubbish. The entrance is 
 by a narrow passage, perfectly dark, inclining downwards 
 for between two and three hundred feet, at an angle of 27. 
 The path is rugged and fatiguing, and must be pursued by 
 a person of ordinary height in a stooping posture. This first 
 passage terminates at a large hall in the very centre of the 
 Pyramid the magnitude of which I could form but little idea 
 of, in the feeble light of our tapers. From this chamber, 
 we proceeded upwards by a similar inclined plane, but 
 exceedingly slippery to what is called the grand gallery ; 
 and here I resolved to terminate my explorative labours; 
 for the Arabs became so offensively clamorous for money, and 
 our means of satisfactory examination were so insufficient, 
 that I felt it to be a needless exposure to toil and vexation. 
 I was satisfied with having thus seen and entered the great 
 Pyramid of Cheops ; knowing that the researches of scientific 
 men, accessible to most readers, had already given to the 
 public all the minute particulars which have hitherto been 
 ascertained. To the standard works on the subject, I must 
 therefore refer the inquiring reader. 
 
 Contenting ourselves with a general survey of the Pyramid 
 of Cephrenes, the second in dimensions, and similar in its 
 construction to that of Cheops, we descended to the lower 
 surface of the plain, eastward of the Pyramids, where stands 
 
 1 A reward in money. Even when an Arab intends to rob a traveller, he 
 politely asks for "SacksheecA."
 
 THE SPHYNX. 107 
 
 that far-famed remnant of Egyptian antiquity, the Sphynx 
 half buried in the rapidly accumulating sands of the Desert, 
 notwithstanding the pains and labour which have, from time 
 to time, been expended on it, for the sake of keeping it visible 
 in all its parts. Its dimensions are vastly colossal. The 
 head in which the Coptic expression is still distinctly 
 preserved measures from the point of the chin to the top 
 of the forehead, twenty-eight feet. The body, in a couchant 
 posture, is about one hundred feet in length. Laborious 
 excavations were made about this Sphynx by the enterprizing 
 Caviglia, which disclosed many interesting details that had 
 been buried in the sand of ages. On a stone platform, 
 between the fore paws, was discovered a block of granite, 
 fourteen feet by seven, and two feet thick, highly embellished 
 with sculptures in base relief; and on the second digit of the 
 paw, lying towards the south, was formed a Greek inscription 
 deeply cut. But these, together with the two temples, one 
 between the legs, and the other hollowed out in one of the 
 paws, as discovered by Belzoni, are no longer visible, by 
 reason of the rapid and large accumulation of sand. 1 
 
 1 DR. E. D. CLARKE made an interesting discovery of inscriptions on the 
 Sphynx. His account of it is as follows : " As we drew near to view this 
 prodigious colossus, a reddish hue was discernible over the whole mass, quite 
 inconsistent with the common colour of the limestone used hi building the 
 Pyramids, and of which the Sphynx is formed. This induced us to examine 
 more attentively the superficies of the statue ; and having succeeded in climbing 
 beneath the right ear of the figure, where the surface had never been broken, 
 nor in any degree decomposed by the action of the atmosphere, we found, to 
 our great surprise, that the whole had once been painted of a dingy red or 
 blood colour, like some of the stuccoed walls of the houses in Pompeii and 
 Herculaneum. Upon this painted surface there was also an inscription; but 
 so concealed by its situation beneath the enormous ear of the Sphynx, and so 
 out of the reach of observers viewing the statue from below, that no notice has 
 yet been taken of it by any preceding traveller. ... It bears the characteristic of a 
 high antiquity in the manner of applying the writing. There is a passage in the 
 book of Deuteronomy, which proves that the custom of writing upon plaister, 
 existed in the fifteenth century before the Christian era. The Israelites are thus 
 instructed to write the law ; and it is very probable that Moses had learnt the 
 art from the Egyptians : ' Thou shalt set thee up great stones, and plaister them, 
 with plaister : and thou shalt write upon them all the words of the law.' Deut. 
 xxvii. 2, 3. The two first lines are Coptic; the rest is Arabic. The characters 
 were of considerable size ; and they were inscribed in black paint, upon the red 
 surface of the statue." Travels of Dr. E, D. Clarke, Vol. v.pp. 2003.
 
 108 PYRAMIDS OF GHISEH. 
 
 It was indeed something to know, on quitting this scene 
 of hoar antiquity, that our feet had trodden the spot, and our 
 eyes had gazed on objects, which have ri vetted the attention 
 of the mightiest and the noblest men of all ages. There has 
 not been a conqueror pre-eminently distinguished in the 
 history of the world, from the days of Cambyses, down to the 
 invasion of Napoleon Buonaparte, who withheld the tribute 
 of his admiration from the genius of the place. The vanity 
 of Alexander was so piqued by the overwhelming impression 
 of their majesty, that nothing less than being ranked among 
 the gods of Egypt could elevate him sufficiently above the 
 pride of the monarchs by whom they were erected. When 
 Germanicus had subdued the Egyptian empire, and seated 
 " a Roman prefect upon the splendid throne of the Ptolemies," 
 being unmindful of repose or triumph, the antiquities of the 
 country engaged all his attention. The humblest pilgrim, 
 pacing the Lybian sands around them, while he is conscious 
 that he walks in the footsteps of so many mighty and renowned 
 men, imagines himself to be for an instant admitted into their 
 illustrious conclave. Persian satraps, Macedonian heroes, 
 Grecian bards, sages and historians, Roman warriors, all 
 of every age and nation and religion, have participated, in 
 common with him, the same feelings, and have trodden the 
 same ground. Every spot that he beholds, every stone on 
 which he rests his weary limbs, has witnessed the coming 
 of men, who were the fathers of law, of literature, and of the 
 arts. Orpheus, Muso3us, Homer, Lycurgus, Solon, Pythagoras, 
 Plato, Plutarch, contributed by their presence to the dignity 
 of the place. 1 
 
 We returned to Cairo by the same route through which we 
 had approached the Pyramids of Ghiseh often turning back 
 to catch another and a last glance of objects so venerable, on 
 which we could not expect that our eyes would ever rest 
 again. The impression made on my mind, will, I think, 
 never be obliterated. 
 
 1 See Dr. E. D. Clarke.
 
 THE CAMEL CAMEL-RIDING. 109 
 
 The time for our departure for Mount Sinai being near at 
 hand, I ordered the camel destined for my service in the 
 expedition to be brought, that I might have an opportunity 
 of trying his paces, and acquainting myself with all that was 
 needful to be known in reference to a mode of travelling so 
 novel to European habits. It was a gentle and docile beast. 
 When preparing for his burthen, the camel is made to 
 kneel down on all fours ; and his legs are so constructed as 
 to give an idea of his being packed up to be stowed 
 away in a case. The knees and hocks are fortified by a hard 
 horny substance, to prevent injury during this process : and 
 on the chest between the fore legs, is a projection of the same 
 kind, of about six or eight inches in depth, presenting a 
 circular surface of about a foot in diameter, which rests upon 
 the earth, and seems to afford support to the whole body 
 while receiving its load. Over the hump is placed an elevated 
 saddle, on which you spread your segaddeh, or any thing you 
 please in addition, to make the seat convenient, and it 
 becomes perfectly easy to take up your position. When you 
 are fairly seated, the camel first rises half way on his hind 
 legs flinging you, by a sudden movement, so forward, that, 
 without great care, it is probable enough you may fall 
 upon the low curve of his neck, and thence to the ground. 
 He next rises entirely upon his fore legs, and by a third 
 effort gathers up his hind ones and there you are, mounted 
 up to a lofty height, 1 above the crowds of people 
 doubtful, at first, whether your new position will be 
 perfectly tenable, when the long, sweeping sailing step 
 shall commence. When you intend to dismount, the creature 
 performs the reverse of his ceremony of rising going 
 down first on his knees. 2 It certainly is an embarrassing 
 
 1 The average height of the Camel, measured from the top of the hump, is 
 between six and seven feet; but from the crown of the head, when fully 
 elevated, it is nearly nine feet. The head is, however, usually so carried as to 
 be nearly on a level with the hump, or rather, if anything, below it the animal 
 bending its neck considerably, in its general posture. The Egyptian Camels 
 are much taller and stronger than those bred and used in the Arabian Desert. 
 2 See Gen. xxiv. 11.
 
 110 THE CAMEL. 
 
 affair at first. When mounted, you take in your hand a 
 halter, made of camel's hair, fastened to an iron ring going 
 round the nose of the animal your only bridle : and it is 
 strange to see his long neck and uplifted nose so far in 
 advance of your saddle. And then he seems to amuse 
 himself by looking inquiringly from right to left gazing 
 upon every thing and every body in the most deliberate 
 manner; and sometimes, bending and swinging round his 
 slender neck, he turns and looks his rider in the face. I rode 
 onwards for an hour or so, towards Shubra; and on my 
 return, found that the long step and unwieldy gait of the 
 camel taxes rather smartly, at first, the muscles of the back, 
 neck and shoulders of the rider. 
 
 Of all the natural objects of interest and novelty, perhaps 
 there was nothing that more arrested my attention than the 
 camel its nature and habits ; and the evidence which it con- 
 stantly afforded of the adaptive providence of God. It seems 
 to have been designed and constructed for a desert life for 
 its toils and its privations. Of all bulky animals, perhaps it 
 is satisfied with the least food, and the coarsest. It never 
 eats greedily, but like one who simply desires to sustain 
 life. In forming a caravan for the Desert, the Arabs usually 
 carry with them a supply of beans, as the most convenient 
 portable food for their cattle; but these are not used when 
 the valleys supply coarse herbage of any kind, or the 
 sharp, thorny tree which produces the gumarabic; of the 
 leaves of which, stripped off in the most careful and dexterous 
 manner, they make a contented meal. The capability of 
 travelling many days without fresh supplies of water, affords 
 another and well known instance of the peculiar adaptation 
 of the camel to a desert life ; added to which, the remarkable 
 patience depicted in the very countenance, and visible in all 
 its demeanour, cannot fail to impress the traveller with a sense 
 of wise design on the part of the Creator. 
 
 The feet of the camel are large, and their hoofs are 
 constructed in a very peculiar manner, being divided above
 
 THE CAMEL. Ill 
 
 into two lobes, the extremity of each protected by distinct and 
 separate small hoofs. The structure of the whole foot gives 
 very much the idea of being formed of india rubber; and seems 
 to have a remarkable power of contracting and expanding, 
 so as to adapt itself to the varieties of surface to which it 
 may be applied. The under part of the foot is soled with a 
 tough and pliable skin, which by yielding in all directions, 
 and not admitting easily of laceration, enables the animal to 
 pass with peculiar ease and security over dry, hot, sandy, and 
 stony regions and mountain-passes of great difficulty, which, 
 otherwise, would soon parch and destroy the hoof. 
 
 We learn from holy scripture that a great part of patriarchal 
 wealth consisted in camels. Job at first had three thousand ; 
 but, after the termination of his sore trials, that number was 
 doubled. And even now, the Bedaween Arabs estimate their 
 wealth, by the numbers which they possess, of these animals ; 
 so that in speaking of the riches of any one, they say he has 
 so many camels. 
 
 Under the usual burthens, camels " ships of the desert " x 
 as the Arabs call them will travel with ease at the rate of 
 thirty miles per day, allowing ten hours (halting frequently at 
 mid-day), for the season of activity and locomotion. In cases 
 of necessity, even more than this is sometimes accomplished. 
 But the Arabs are, in the main, careful of their camels ; 
 and when dividing and adjusting the baggage and furniture 
 of travellers, will wrangle and contend about the smallest 
 article, if urged to add it to a load which they deem already 
 
 1 The following extracts from Arabian Poets, given by Sir William Jones, 
 convey the idea involved in this epithet : 
 
 " Even now, she (the Camel) has a spirit so brisk, that she flies with the rain, 
 like a clear cloud, driven by the wind, after it has discharged its shower. 
 
 " Long is her neck ; and when she raises it with celerity, it resembles the 
 stern of a ship, floating aloft on the billowy Tigris. 
 
 " Ah ! the vehicles which bore away my fair one, on the morning when the 
 tribe of Malee departed, and their camels were travelling the banks of Deda, 
 resembled large ships."
 
 THE CAMEL. 
 
 sufficient for the strength of the animal. Some of the noisiest 
 altercations in a desert route are occasioned in this way. 
 
 It was in the forenoon of the tenth of May, when, according 
 to the arrangements with Sheikh Suleiman, our baggage, 
 provisions, and all things needful for the journey were made 
 ready for loading. Our Arabs arrived from their bivouac on the 
 borders of the Desert; and the busy stir of preparation was soon 
 sounding in our ears. Whatever dangers or privations we might 
 be called on to meet or endure in our passage through the 
 wilderness, I felt that then the die was cast. It was, to me, a 
 most exciting scene, when camels and their wild attendants 
 crowded the quadrangular court of our habitation, and 
 the plaintive cries and meanings of the poor beasts while 
 receiving their various allotments of burthen, were mingled 
 with the harsh, voluble, guttural squabblings of the Bedaween. 
 It was a picture of strife and confusion not easy to be realized, 
 except by those who are acquainted with oriental manners 
 and habits. At length, however, all was fairly adjusted ; good 
 humour was as easily restored as broken; and the loaded 
 camels and their swarthy guardians, with Sheikh Suleiman 
 at their head, wound their way through the narrow streets 
 of Cairo (which is more like a rabbit warren than any thing 
 else), to await our arrival, at a little before sunset, on the 
 borders of the Desert, just to the left of the tombs of the 
 Sultans ; from whence our caravan was to move with the early 
 light of the morning.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 THE ARABIAN DESERT; 
 
 FROM CAIRO TO MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO NIGHT-SCENE IN THE DESERT DESERT OF SUEZ- 
 
 MIRAGE ENCAMPMENT IN THE DESERT BEDAWEEN CHARACTERISTICS - 
 INCIDENTS RED SEA - SUEZ - FOUNTAIN - SUPERSTITIOUS PRACTICE 
 SUEZ PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA AYUN MOUSA, THE SPRINGS OF MOSES 
 ROUTE TO MOUNT SINAI - WADEY WERDAN THIRST - PRECAUTION 
 WATERS OF MARAH WADEY GHURUNDEL - WILDERNESS OF SIN CHILDREN 
 OF ISRAEL - WADEY USSEIT - WADEY THAL - WADEY HOMRR - WADEY 
 NASSB - ARAB FAMILIES - RAMEL MOREKH - WADEY BERAH - ARAB 
 BURIAL-GROUND - WADEY SHEIKH S1NAITE GROUP GEBEL SERBAL - 
 WADEY HAWY PLAIN OF EL RAHA HOREB SINAI CONVENT OF SANTA 
 KATARINA - CHAPEL OF THE BURNING BUSH CONVENT LIBRARY - 
 CATACOMB - SHRINE OF SANTA KATARINA ASCENT OF MOUNT SINAI - 
 MOUNT SINAI - PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 
 
 Pharaoh rose up in the night, he and all his servants, 
 and all the Egyptians ; and there was a great cry in Egypt ; 
 for there was not a house where there was not one dead. 
 And he called for Moses and Aaron by night, and said, Rise 
 up, and get you forth from among my people, both ye and 
 the children of Israel; and go, serve the Lord as ye have 
 said. Also take your flocks and your herds, as ye have said, 
 and be gone ; and bless me also. And the Egyptians were 
 urgent upon the people, that they might send them out 
 of the land in haste ; for they said, we be all dead men. And 
 the people took their dough before it was leavened, their
 
 114 ARABIAN DESERT. 
 
 kneading troughs being bound up in their clothes upon their 
 shoulders. * * * And the children of Israel 
 journeyed from Rameses to Succoth, about six hundred 
 thousand on foot that were men, besides children. And a 
 mixed multitude went up also with them; and flocks, and 
 herds, even very much cattle. * And it 
 
 came to pass, when Pharaoh had let the people go, that God 
 led them not through the way of the land of the Philistines, 
 although that was near ; for God said, lest peradventure the 
 people repent, when they see war, and they return unto 
 Egypt. But God led the people about, through the way 
 of the wilderness of the Red Sea. And the children of Israel 
 went up harnessed out of the land of Egypt. 
 And they took their journey from Succoth, and encamped in 
 Etham, in the edge of the wilderness. And the Lord went 
 before them by day in a pillar of a cloud, to lead them the 
 way ; and by night in a pillar of fire, to give them light ; to 
 go by day and night. He took not away the pillar of the 
 cloud by day, nor the pillar of fire by night, from before the 
 people." 1 
 
 With a record such as this for the mind to dwell on ; with 
 the history of God's ancient people in our memories; 
 with the land of their cruel bondage stretching around us ; 
 and with their desert-route awaiting us, it may be easily 
 imagined that the commencement of our journey occasioned 
 many a deep emotion. History became reality indeed, as 
 we prepared to follow in the track of the six hundred 
 thousand rescued Israelites, and the mixed multitude which 
 went up with them. The pillar of the cloud indeed was 
 no longer visible by day, nor the pillar of fire by night; 
 but yet the God of Israel was with us in the gospel of 
 his dear Son a better manifestation than ever Israel had 
 witnessed in the days of their wanderings. And this was 
 enough to bear us up, in the prospect of any thing that 
 might await us in the unopened future either of danger, 
 
 ' Exodus xii. 30-34, 37, 38; xiii. 17, 18, 20-22.
 
 DEPARTURE FROM CAIRO. 115 
 
 difficulty, or privation. It was a solemn time indeed, when, 
 bidding farewell to human habitations, we prepared to go 
 forth upon the scene of Israel's pilgrimage the homeless 
 waste the houseless abode of men of the wandering spirit 
 and the untiring foot. How far how very far distant did 
 home, and the scenes and pursuits and dear objects of home, 
 appear, while the mind grasped at the fact, that there was 
 the marvellous exodus of Israel commenced ; and that there 
 Jehovah interposed on their behalf, to break the shackles 
 of heartless tyranny. 
 
 The sun was getting low in the horizon, and casting 
 lengthened shadows, as we wound slowly along the crowded 
 streets of Cairo, towards the gate called Bab-en-Nasr, which 
 opened upon the skirts of the Desert. We passed on in 
 silence, having on our right, the crumbling remains of the 
 tombs of the Sultans dome and tower all yielding to 
 the touch of time, and powdered with the sand-drifts of the 
 wilderness. The sun was bathing in his last gorgeous rays 
 the mosques and minarets of the ancient city, and illuminating 
 the land of Goshen, 1 which stretched out, with its flat and 
 still green and productive surface, yet further on our left ; 
 while the cloudless sky overhung us like a canopy of richly 
 tinted velvet. We soon descried our little encampment in 
 the distance ; and in about half an hour were in the midst 
 of our Bedaween party, who had already begun to light their 
 evening fires, and freed their camels from their burthens. 
 
 1 A greater variety of conjectures than the simplicity of the subject requires, 
 has been offered, as to the precise locality of the land of Goshen. One of the 
 clearest proofs that it lay along the east side of the Pelusiac branch of the Nile, 
 which is the most easterly branch of the river, arises out of the fact that the 
 Israelites on their departure from Egypt, did not pass over the Nile; and we 
 therefore readily assume that it must have included the district of Heliopolis, 
 which lay on the eastern border of the Delta. The land of Goshen was 
 certainly the best pasture ground of Lower Egypt, and well adapted for pastoral 
 pursuits ; for Joseph recommended it to his family, as "the best of the land ;" 
 (Gen. xlvii. 11) and Pharaoh promised to give them "the good of the land 
 of Egypt," and the "fat of the land." Gen. xlv. 18, 20.
 
 116 NIGHT-SCENE IN THE DESERT. 
 
 There, in the midst, stood the tent which was to be our desert- 
 lioine, already pitched for our reception ; and as we advanced, 
 Sheikh Suleiman, arrayed in his smartest attire, came forth to 
 receive us with every indication of respectful bearing. How 
 new how strange was all this scene ; and these were to be 
 our companions these wild and houseless men for many a 
 long day, and for many a weary league. They had provided 
 no tents they needed none. The sand was their bed the 
 midnight sky their canopy. Our caravan consisted of fourteen 
 camels altogether, including those destined to bear our baggage, 
 and those provided for us and our servants to ride. It was a 
 noble beast which owned Sheikh Suleiman as its master. 
 
 "We spent a few minutes amidst the party received and 
 exchanged salutations, and then, walking up upon an elevated 
 ridge of rocky soil over against our encampment, took a 
 parting glance at the ancient city of Cairo. The evening 
 was closing charmingly, and soon the picture became 
 shadowy and distant; for in the east there is but a 
 short scarcely any interval of twilight between sunset and 
 darkness. 1 Turning from the city, we looked down from the 
 other side of the hill upon our little encampment. How 
 wild and gipsey-like it appeared ; and the loud laugh, 
 and the break of hearty voices, mingling with the moaning 
 of camels, fell with a sense of strange novelty on our ears, 
 while we counted the blazing fires kindled for the evening 
 meal, illuminating the picturesque persons of our Bedaween, 
 and their animals gathered around them. We returned to 
 our tent, which we found comfortably arranged for us, by 
 servants who knew the nature of desert wants and how to 
 supply them. In the middle was suspended an Arab lamp, 
 above a camp table. Matting and carpets were spread upon 
 the sand. Our mattresses and slight bedding were placed 
 on either sidej and such of our baggage as we might 
 
 1 "The sun's rim dips ; the stars rush out, 
 At one stride comes the dark." 
 
 Coleridge's Ancient Mariner.
 
 DESERT OF SUEZ. 117 
 
 want for the night, placed within our reach. It was a snug, 
 cheerful little home. 
 
 Having arranged with Sheikh Suleiman to commence the 
 march at an early hour in the morning, we betook ourselves 
 to our repose ; but though I felt every assurance of safety, 
 from the known fidelity of Arabs when acting as an escort, 
 yet the novelty of position, and the multitude of thoughts 
 crowding continually upon my mind, kept me restless and 
 wakeful ; while the sound of camels, and the fitful talk of the 
 appointed watchers and guards, were perpetually falling on 
 the ear. 
 
 May llth. The sun was just tinging the horizon with 
 his first rays of promise, when we were summoned from our 
 couches, to prepare for the commencement of the journey. 
 The first loading is always a tedious matter. Baggage 
 has to be adapted and re-adapted, again and again, before 
 satisfaction pervades the caravan. At length, every one 
 of the escort having charge of certain articles is enabled, 
 after each halting, to select from the mass every thing for 
 which he is responsible, and for which a fitting place has 
 been found on the back of his camel. The preparation, 
 however, was in due time made; and amidst Sheikh 
 Suleiman's loud and repeated cry of" Yettah yettah" (make 
 haste and be going), we mounted our camels, which were 
 kneeling on the sand ready to receive us. On the saddle, 
 both in front and behind, there is a stout upright wooden pin, 
 or peg, on which are slung such matters as the traveller may 
 happen to want at any moment during the march. In front, 
 I had a firm walking staff, an Arab umbrella, and a porous 
 earthen bottle containing fresh water from the Nile. Behind, 
 were slung pistols and a sabre (for the shew of arms is 
 positively necessary, even for men of peace), and a small case 
 containing books and writing materials. It was just seven 
 o'clock when we began to move, and bade farewell to our first 
 desert-home on the sand. The usual route to the gulph 
 of Suez, following the track of the children of Israel, so clearly
 
 118 DESERT OF SUEZ. 
 
 indicated in scripture, 1 occupies four days, if traversed at the 
 ordinary camel-pace, of nearly three miles an hour. 
 
 The silence and solitary aspect of the Desert though still 
 so near to the borders of Cairo, had an impressive effect upon 
 the mind, as we passed onwards by way of Materieh, on the 
 northern side of a graceful and picturesque chain of hills, 
 called Gebel Ataka, with the warm tinting of the morning 
 sun resting on their otherwise grey and sombre sides and 
 peaks. The path was well tracked by the footsteps of ages 
 for it is by this way that the grand Hadj makes its exit from 
 Cairo. Perhaps the romance of the scene may be somewhat 
 broken by the occasional traces of carriage wheels, which are 
 now no strangers to the Desert of Suez, as connected with 
 the bold undertaking of the overland passage to India. 
 Such are the convenient arrangements made, that travellers 
 coming direct from India, however delicate or enfeebled in 
 health, may find themselves transported from the shores of 
 the Red Sea to Cairo, with almost all the ordinary comforts 
 of an European route. Of course, in such an expedition as 
 ours, we preferred, on all accounts, the ancient mode of 
 travelling. This route, like all those of the Hadj caravans, has 
 scattered about it, at every few miles, the sad and impressive 
 memorials of suffering and death. The bones of camels, 
 bleached by the sun and the breezes of the Desert, and the 
 occasional hillocks, with piled up stones marking the last 
 earthly reposing place of many a hapless pilgrim, fill the mind 
 sometimes with anxious forecastings of thought as to what may 
 still await the traveller in scenes like these. 
 
 At this part of the Desert, occasional patches of herbage, though 
 poor and stunted, are to be seen, towards which the camels 
 stretch down their long necks in passing, and crop a hasty 
 mouthful. A little before noon, while the sun in his strength 
 was bearing down upon us, we saw in the distance somewhat 
 which had the appearance of a charming lake, with its beautiful 
 
 1 Exodus xir.
 
 MIRAGE. 119 
 
 blue waters, as if reflecting the deep azure of the sky. It 
 was studded here and there with tufts and clumps of trees, in 
 the midst and on its banks. Sometimes its waters seemed to 
 sparkle in the sun ; and though I knew it to be the Mirage, 1 
 and not really water springing up and flowing in the Desert, 
 yet it seemed to provoke, most keenly, the sense of thirst; 
 and almost impelled me to press forward and seek a refreshing 
 draught at its margin. The appearance continued for, 
 perhaps, nearly half an hour. Our attention was at length 
 diverted by some other object. We looked again, and it was 
 gone ; and the far-stretching surface of the sand spoke only 
 of aridity and dearth. I witnessed other instances of Mirage, 
 while in Syria ; and one in particular, far more picturesque 
 than that which I have already mentioned. It presented the 
 idea of a richly wooded island in the midst of the lake, and 
 stately buildings on its banks ; and even the waves, as if 
 agitated by a breeze, seemed to be perpetually swelling and 
 flowing, not towards the brink, as with real water, but in the 
 opposite direction. So far as I could learn, the Arabs have no 
 theory as to the cause of this phenomenon : perhaps they have 
 never had sufficient motive for inquiring. Sir John Chardin 
 and others, speak of it as the effect of the repercussion of the 
 sun's rays from the sand of the Desert. It generally has the 
 flickering appearance of a landscape seen through the columns 
 of heat and vapour proceeding from a brick-kiln or furnace. 
 
 It was soon after we had been gratified by this appearance, 
 that we halted, and pitched the tents for our noontide rest 
 and meal. Throughout the Desert journey, we usually were 
 
 1 The Arabs call the Mirage, Serdb; which agrees with the Hebrew m^> 
 and in both languages, it means a glowing, sandy plain ; which, in hot countries, 
 at a distance, has the appearance of water. There are in Scripture several 
 allusions to it; such as Isaiah xxxv. 7, which Bishop Lowth translates "the 
 glowing sand shall become a pool; and also Jeremiah xv. 18, " Why is my pain 
 perpetual, and my wound incurable, which refuseth to be healed ? Wilt thou be 
 altogether unto me as a liar, and as waters that fail ?" (Margin, "be not sure."*) 
 In the Koran, chap. xxiv. we find a similar allusion " But as to unbelievers, 
 their works are like a vapour in a plain, which the thirsty traveller thinketh to 
 be water, until, when he cometh thereto, he findeth it to be nothing."
 
 120 DESERT OF SUEZ DYING CAMEL. 
 
 in motion between five and six in the morning ; halted from 
 half-past ten or eleven, till about three ; and then proceeded 
 till an hour or two after sunset, or as long after as the prospect 
 of finding water, when such occurred, might render it needful. 
 Many days, however, sometimes elapse without finding any ; 
 but the Bedaween are well acquainted with those spots to 
 which hope may be directed; and they cleverly arrange 
 distances, so as to reach the fountain at the proper halting 
 time. Our first day's route was comfortably made : and on 
 the second, with the range of Geb^l Ataka still on our right, 
 we proceeded along the waste of the Desert, with nothing to 
 break the monotony of the scene. Yet, it was something to 
 know that there on that very spot, the pillar of the cloud 
 by day, and the pillar of fire by night, had led the people 
 of Israel in the way of their wondrous deliverance. 
 
 Two or three hours before our halting time for the night, 
 we observed at a distance, in advance of us, a solitary camel. 
 One of our Arabs quickened his pace and rode towards it ; 
 and when we arrived, we found that it was unattended by 
 any owner, and in the last stage of disease and death. 
 The poor animal seemed to be excited for a moment by the 
 arrival of our caravan; and, looking wishfully towards us, 
 made an effort to move, as if to join us. It had evidently 
 been left there to die ; as the Arabs, I believe, never think 
 of despatching a worn-out and diseased camel for the purpose 
 of shortening its sufferings. It was an affecting picture. We 
 moved on and again the poor beast made an effort to follow, 
 but in vain. By this time its bones are whitening in the sun. 
 
 At the close of the third day, we pitched under a ridge 
 of hills, near the little fortress of Ajeroud, a few miles 
 northward of Suez. This is one of the regular fortresses, at 
 which are kept stores for the supply of the Hadj caravan. 
 It is insignificant in itself, to afford protection against any but 
 the Bedaween ; and so long as they are in the service of the 
 Pasha of Egypt, as -conductors of the caravan, a fortress 
 of pasteboard would be enough.
 
 ENCAMPMENT IN THE DESERT. 121 
 
 Sheikh Suleiman had taken a great liking to the Arab 
 costume which I wore, as was evident from his frequently 
 taking some part of it in his hands smoothing it with the 
 palm, and saying " tayeeb, tayeeb ;" and, often placing himself 
 erect beside me and pointing to his own person, gave the 
 clearest intimations of his opinion that it would suit and 
 become him exactly. The Arabs are exceedingly fond of 
 multiplying wearing apparel ; and the richer it may be, the 
 better it suits their taste, although, while in the Desert, they 
 are content with any few rags they may have in their saddle 
 bags. Some of them are said to have large stores of clothing 
 laid up in caves and holes in the rocks. Sheikh Suleiman 
 did not fail afterwards to express, through our interpreter, 
 his hope that I would make him happy in the possession of my 
 dress, at the end of the journey. He seemed as eager as a 
 child for a fresh bit of finery. 
 
 It was a lovely starlight night, when we dismounted near 
 the little fortress of Ajeroud. The heavenly bodies appeared 
 pendent in the firmament, which presented to view a far 
 greater number of stars than I had ever seen in Europe. 
 The clearness of the atmosphere, of course, partly accounts for 
 this. And how picturesque was our bivouac, when the fires 
 were lighted, and our wild band, flanked by their camels, 
 gathered round for their evening meal, with their chibouks, and 
 their dreamy and monotonous song. Soon, all was silent ; and 
 the downy wing of repose was upon every eyelid. I cannot 
 say how deeply affecting it was, when surrounded by these 
 swarthy strangers of another creed, to spend an hour over the 
 pages of imperishable truth, and to unite in prayer and praise, 
 while kneeling on the sands of the wilderness bearing on our 
 hearts, our families, our friends, and our flocks. Seldom did the 
 evening close, without our enjoying together this precious 
 Christian privilege. What would I not have given to have been 
 able to unfold the mystery of redemption to our free-hearted 
 and faithful companions ; and by the power of divine grace 
 on their hearts, to have had them bending with us, through 
 the same Mediator, before the same throne. The confusion
 
 BKDAWEEN CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 of tongues ! oh, what a melancholy consequence of man's 
 pride, sin, and rebellion ! How sad the thought that the Bible 
 should be a closed book to all but ourselves ; and that in the 
 minds of these wild wanderers, no ray of divine illumination 
 was shining to give knowledge of the " truth as it is in 
 Jesus." 
 
 The Bedaween had already won my good opinion ; and it 
 was not long ere my heart yearned over them. So unpre- 
 suming, so kindly and so hearty were they in their bearing 
 towards us; so ready to do any service unsolicited, and so 
 happy when they saw that their kindliness gave satisfaction. 
 I feel now as if I could traverse the whole Desert with alacrity, 
 with a party of faithful Bedaween, such as ours, for my 
 escort. There is not a man in Europe, of whatever rank, who 
 might not possibly be a gainer, by studying and imitating much 
 that may be discovered in the Bedaween. Wild birds of the 
 Desert as they are yet, for honesty when in your service, and 
 for temperance and moral feeling, they put to shame, in many 
 things, the masses of the people of England, around whom 
 the means of moral culture are multiplied, and for whom the 
 full blaze of revelation is glowing. 
 
 Our Desert-fare was simple, as may be guessed from the 
 catalogue of provisions given in a former page. Generally, 
 it consisted of vermicelli soup, and a dish of mutton, or goat's 
 flesh, procured whenever we came within reach of Bedaween 
 flocks ; and if not that, a pilau, with Arab bread, baked on 
 the embers at the door of the tent, or thick hard biscuits 
 soaked in water, and broiled over the fire. A draught of water, 
 just coloured with brandy, was our beverage. A cup of tea, 
 brought with us from England, was the delicious and refresh- 
 ing repast of the evening, and then, perhaps, or immediately 
 after dinner, a cup of coffee with a whiff of the mild Latakia 
 tobacco, inhaled from the long cherry-stick tubed pipe of the 
 east. An Arab encampment would be sadly incomplete 
 without the fragrant fumes of Latakia, and the gently 
 stimulating production of the coffee pot.
 
 INCIDENTS. 123 
 
 We had journeyed from Succoth, and were now pitched 
 in Etham. 
 
 While we were sitting in the tent, during the noontide 
 resting time, I was struck with the picturesque recumbent 
 posture of one of the baggage-camels, and got out my 
 sketch book to secure a remembrance of it by a few hasty 
 lines. I had scarcely finished, ere Sheikh Suleiman peeped 
 into the tent, as he frequently did, to make his salaam, 
 and to partake of our shade and coffee. Musselmans have 
 but little idea of the pictorial art the more especially 
 as the Koran forbids drawing and sculpture, as tending 
 to idolatry. However, I instantly presented the sketch to 
 the Sheikh, as an experiment, to see whether he would 
 understand it. With an air of evident surprise, he put his 
 long pipe from his mouth suspended the meditated whiff, 
 and holding up his hands, cried at the top of his voice, 
 "El gimel el gimel gimel tayeeb" (the camel, the camel, 
 the good camel). While he held up the drawing in his 
 hand, several of the other Bedaween came running to the 
 tent door; and as soon as they caught a glimpse they, 
 too, exclaimed while pointing to the half-slumbering subject 
 of it, as he lay chewing his cud " El gimel " pointing out 
 also the various parts of the camel-furniture which had been 
 represented in the sketch. By this time the Sheikh had 
 squatted down, in the Arab fashion, at the door of the tent, 
 and I thought at once of another experiment ; so, fixing my 
 eye steadily upon him, I signed to him to keep his present 
 posture, with his pipe replaced in his mouth; and then, 
 drawing the attention of the other Arabs, I bid them look on, 
 and see the process. I succeeded in getting a rough, but 
 tolerably correct idea of Suleiman himself, in a few minutes ; 
 and when I handed it to the Arabs, they cried out with a 
 hearty laugh, and an air of surprise "El Sheikh El 
 Sheikh" while one touched his pipe, another his beard, 
 and another his tarbouch, to intimate that they all found their 
 place in the picture, as the necessary appendage of his 
 Sheikship. I began to fear that I should be called upon to
 
 124 BEDAWEEN KINDLINESS. 
 
 sketch the whole party; and truly there were many that 
 would have afforded scope for employment to the pencil of a 
 skilful painter. 
 
 On the following morning we mounted at about six. Suleiman 
 arrayed himself in his full costume, and made a detour 
 alone to the little fortress of Ajeroud probably on business 
 connected with the Egyptian government. He had the 
 bearing of a bold, noble fellow, as he sallied forth on his fine 
 camel, with his matchlock slung at his back, and his showy 
 robes and turban of cashmere, the colours of which were 
 vividly brought out by the morning sun. We pursued the 
 direct route towards Suez, with scarcely an undulation upon 
 its surface ; but deeply imprinted with the -camel-tracks 
 of many a by-gone day. The heat was very scorching during 
 the morning's march, yet not so as to occasion any really 
 distressing sensation. This was the fourth day since our 
 departure from Cairo ; and the poor camels had not met with 
 a drop of water. I thought they seemed to increase their 
 pace, as if aware that at about five miles distant from Suez 
 there was a fountain, at which a halt is usually made for the 
 sake both of man and beast. 
 
 As we were passing on, I was much pleased with a little 
 instance of delicate attention on the part of one of our younger 
 Bedaween. There is occasionally found in the Desert 
 of Suez, a kind of gourd exceedingly bitter, and used in 
 medicine. It is colocynth. At this season of the year these 
 gourds have a dry light brown surface ; and when gathered, 
 the loose seeds within rattle as if shut up in a box. I looked 
 down from my camel, as I passed some of these which were 
 thoroughly ripened, and wished to procure one as a specimen ; 
 but I passed on to avoid the trouble and delay of dismounting. 
 In a few minutes, I felt some one pulling the skirt of my 
 mantle ; and there was my young Arab friend, with his sunny 
 countenance, and one of the ripe gourds rattling in his hand, 
 which he presented to me with a graceful civility of manner. 
 He had quickly perceived my wish as I glanced at the gourds
 
 RED SEA SUEZ FOUNTAIN. 125 
 
 in passing. Here was good breeding in the wilds of the 
 Desert. He also presented me with some of the dried fruit 
 of the Nabbukh tree, which grows in some parts of the Desert, 
 and abundantly in Syria. This fruit is much eaten by the 
 Arabs, and is flavoured somewhat like dates. 
 
 At about half-past eight o'clock, we caught our first distant 
 view of the Bed Sea, and the few poor buildings which 
 constitute the port of Suez, appearing little more than a 
 white speck. In advance of us, and several miles distant 
 from thence, was the watering-place, with a kind of tower 
 and other buildings, erected for the protection of the fountain. 
 But it seemed as if we should never arrive ; for in the 
 Desert, when there is a point of sight before you, footsteps 
 scarcely seem to tell upon it ; and besides, there is a little 
 growing sense of impatience which helps the annoying idea 
 of undiminished distance. In due time, however, we reached 
 the wished-for spot ; and I confess that the prospect of arriving 1 - 
 at the first fountain in the Desert, had a great charm for me;^Er 
 the Nile water in our skins was already becoming unpleasant. 
 Besides, I was desirous of seeing the oriental customs and 
 habits on such an occasion. The Ked Sea seemed to wi 
 upon us as we advanced, and presented a surface of deep 
 azure. We dismounted the instant we neared the fountain, 
 while each Arab took possession of his camel, and led it 
 to the spring. The water, which is poor and brackish, 
 is supplied for them in a deep tank, in which were 
 crowded many Arabs from Suez, filling water skins, and 
 making it turbid by stirring up the sand from the bottom. 
 Some of the camels drank at once from the tank; but for 
 others there was no room. The. Arabs therefore drew up 
 water for them in wooden bowls, which they always carry 
 with them, and which serve for various purposes ; amongst 
 others, they are used for kneading their dough when they 
 bake bread. It was a pleasant thing to observe the sense 
 of refreshment, and the perfect satisfaction which these poor 
 animals experienced, while leisurely filling themselves for the 
 next stage of the journey.
 
 126 SUPERSTITIOUS PRACTICE SUEZ. 
 
 In about half an hour we mounted again, and in about two 
 hours more, reached the miserable little port of Suez. The 
 Bedaween encamped on a sloping ground outside the gate, 
 with whom we left one of the servants to take charge of our 
 possessions, while we sought shelter for the night within the 
 walls. When we were about half a mile from this halting 
 place, one of our young Arabs ran off at a rapid pace towards 
 the head of the gulph of Suez, from whence he returned 
 with equal celerity, bringing with him a large handful 
 of black marie, or clay. He instantly distributed a portion 
 of it to each of his companions, who first inserted a little 
 pebble into each nostril of his camel, and then a small lump 
 of the clay. On enquiry, I found this to be an Arab custom 
 intended to prevent the camels being sick at the Red Sea. I 
 could get no further explanation of so strange a practice. 
 Having ordered the servants to purchase and present a sheep 
 to our Bedaween, for their private consumption a customary 
 thing on reaching any particular stage of the journey 
 we passed on, and soon found ourselves within the gates 
 of Suez. 
 
 The overland route to India will, if perpetuated, effect 
 great changes in the general character of Suez. The free 
 and frequent admixture of Europeans with Orientals, cannot 
 long continue without resulting in local modifications. The 
 oriental character and habit will doubtless stand long against 
 serious innovation of any kind ; but a new spirit of enterprize 
 will, in all probability, be traced by and by in the minds 
 of those with whom Suez is a place of permanent residence. 
 Already there are indications of progressive change ; European 
 habits and customs are becoming prevalent ; and European 
 establishments are springing up in the various forms of 
 mercantile speculativeness. 
 
 The external appearance of the place, has, I imagine, 
 undergone but little alteration; for it bears still the aspect 
 of most of the smaller oriental towns. No architectural spirit 
 is abroad; no local tendency to improvement appears to
 
 SUEZ SCHOOL PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA. 127 
 
 prevail. On passing the gates, you enter an irregular kind 
 of square ; on the left you catch a view of the sea, with a 
 small dock-yard, in which small craft are built ; on the right, 
 are a few poor and squalid-looking buildings and a khan. 
 Beyond the square is a long principal street, leading to 
 the governor's residence ; and to the right are the bazaars, 
 in which are assembled all varieties of the oriental 
 family meeting as in a point, from which diverge many 
 of the Asiatic and African routes. From Suez, guides and 
 escorts are easily obtainable to facilitate journeys in all 
 directions. With the exception of the residences of the 
 governor and a few principal inhabitants, the houses are 
 mean habitations, and chiefly built of bricks formed of mud, 
 and baked or dried in the sun. While passing along among 
 some of these, to mark the domestic habits of the people, I 
 saw a small school with about a dozen or fourteen children, 
 who were studying with all their might, and with no small 
 sound, the Arabic alphabet, written on large boards, set up 
 before them, or held in the hand ; while the tutor, squatting 
 on the floor, and enveloped in clouds of tobacco-smoke, looked 
 on in silent satisfaction. 
 
 We spent one night at Suez, and part of the next day. 
 Early in the morning I enjoyed the luxury of bathing in the 
 beautiful clear waters of the Red Sea the refreshment 
 afforded by which was almost unspeakable, after four days 
 of Desert heat and fatigue. Our Bedaween had started 
 early, taking the camels with them round the head of the 
 gulph, to a certain point at which they were to await our 
 arrival. We easily obtained a suitable boat; and at about 
 three o'clock in the afternoon, were upon the Red Sea 
 the scene of God's wondrous workings on behalf of his 
 chosen people Israel. We crossed at the narrowest part a 
 part which is sometimes fordable and considerably nearer 
 to the head of the gulph than that at which I am persuaded 
 the people of Israel passed. It was enough, however, to 
 know that we were certainly not far distant from a spot so 
 memorable. As I lay along in the boat, I read the divinely
 
 128 PASSAGE OF THE RED SEA. 
 
 recorded narrative of Israel's deliverance of Pharaoh's 
 discomfiture and overthrow ; and I seemed to hear, while my 
 eye rested on the page, the triumphant chanting of that 
 noble anthem in which Moses set forth the mighty and 
 miraculous achievement of Jehovah. 1 
 
 It is indeed a solemn emotion which pervades the mind 
 of a Christian man, when he feels that he is on some spot where 
 the miraculous power of God has been displayed of which 
 he has no doubt. I experienced this on the Nile, which had 
 felt the presence and the power of Jehovah, when it ran 
 blood. I experienced it here, on the Red Sea, whose waters, 
 in obedience to a divine bidding, had stood up as a wall on 
 either side of the passage, which a mighty arm had opened 
 for " the redeemed of the Lord " to pass through. It seemed 
 as if the presence of God had not been withdrawn, though all 
 traces of the miracle had passed away, and the order of nature 
 had returned. 
 
 The passage over the Red Sea, occupied but little more 
 than half an hour, and our feet were then treading the sands 
 of Asia. Glancing towards the African shores, which we had 
 left, the scene was very charming, as the declining sun 
 rendered more massive the long promontory formed by Gebel 
 Atakah, Gebel Deraj, and Ras Mousa the promontory 
 of Moses. On reaching the Asiatic shore, we turned our faces 
 southward, having the Red Sea on our right, and the fore- 
 mentioned mountains about Pihahiroth beyond it. On our 
 left, was the long range of Gebel-er-Rahhah, shutting out 
 the desert of El Tih the " desert of the wandering." The 
 Desert route before us was flat, sometimes stony, and always 
 sandy, with scarcely a blade of vegetation an ocean of sand. 
 How dreary and lifeless was the prospect. We were now 
 in the wilderness of Shur, the Desert separating Egypt and 
 Palestine. 2 
 
 1 Exodus xv. ! Exodus xv, 22.
 
 AYUN MOUSA, THE SPRINGS OF MOSES. 
 
 Three of the Bedaween were in waiting with our camels 
 for riding, which we mounted immediately after crossing 
 the Red Sea, with the intention of reaching Ayun Mousa 
 (the springs of Moses), as the place of encampment for the 
 night; where it was well known that water would be 
 found, far better than that which had been obtained at Suez. 
 One of the servants and the rest of the Bedaween had 
 preceded us thither, in order to get the tents pitched, and all 
 other things ready for our halting. A ride of about three 
 hours and a half brought us to the fountains, which had 
 been for some time indicated by a few wild palm trees, very 
 conspicuous in the distance; and perhaps the accelerated 
 speed, and the outstretched necks of the camels, gave us 
 a like intimation ; for the camel is said to have the faculty 
 of discovering water at a considerable distance. I had several 
 instances of this during my route. 
 
 Ayun Mousa is indeed a refreshing spot in the midst 
 of the Desert. The wells are preserved with great care. 
 Amidst the clumps of palm trees and a few tamarisks, I found 
 some oleanders, in beautiful blossom doubly precious to the 
 lover of flowers, on account of the barren locality in which 
 they spread forth their loveliness to greet him. Amidst these 
 tokens of vegetable life, we found our tents pitched the fires 
 kindled, and the escort already gathered together in little 
 parties for the evening. On our arrival, several of the 
 younger Arabs came to meet us ; and one in particular, from 
 whom I had received several civilities, gave me a cordial 
 sunny smile, and a " Salaam aleicum " (peace be to you), 
 the usual salutation, and pointing to the wells, proposed to 
 lead me to them. I was parched and thirsty ; so, taking a 
 large cup in my hand, and joining my young guide, we 
 went to the wells together. I dipped my cup and drank 
 my draught ; but the water had a saline flavour, or as if it 
 held in solution a considerable quantity of soda. I dipped 
 again, and handed it to my companion. He was pleased by 
 the civility, smiled, and laid his hand on his heart as he 
 received it. I pointed to an oleander in bloom, which was 
 
 K
 
 130 ROUTE TO MOUNT SINAI AYUN MOUSA. 
 
 just at hand. He instantly gathered two clusters of its 
 beautiful flowers, and presented them to me. Destitute as he 
 was of what we Europeans call cultivation, yet I am sure that 
 young Arab had the good taste of a gentleman. 
 
 I am much inclined to believe that Ayun Mousa is really 
 the spot on which the feet of rescued Israel rested, and from 
 which they beheld their enemies dead on the sea shore. I 
 do not say that, as a matter of fact, this is so distinctly proved 
 as to admit of no doubt or question, in minds disposed to cavil 
 and object; but I am persuaded that, so far as proof can go 
 on such a subject, the fact may be considered as established 
 namely, that the people of Israel entered their pathway 
 through the Red Sea, just to the north of Has Atakah, and 
 that they passed straight onward to Ayun Mousa. From 
 thence, their route to Mount Sinai lay before us. 
 
 Surely the deliverance of Israel, and their reception of the 
 Divine Law at the foot of the Mount, were typical of God's 
 mode of dealing with his people under the dispensation of the 
 " better covenant." He finds them in a state of cruel bondage 
 under sin and satan. They groan for deliverance, but have 
 not strength to effect it for themselves. God undertakes 
 for them ; not by ordinary means but extraordinary ; 
 not by natural, but by miraculous, which result in the 
 abolishing of death, and bringing life and immortality to 
 light; He appoints them a leader; He gives them, in the 
 page of revelation, the pillar of the cloud by day, and 
 the pillar of fire by night. As they follow their leader in the 
 exercise of a simple faith, they experience deliverance ; as 
 they look to the pillar of the cloud and the pillar of fire, they 
 are directed ; he feeds them with " bread from heaven," and 
 makes waters to gush out for them in the Desert ; He 
 smites the spiritual rock which follows them ; He reveals His 
 will to them; He writes it as a law in their hearts ; He makes 
 their bodies a " temple " a tabernacle in which he dwells by 
 His spirit; He "places His name" among them; He is their 
 God they are His people.
 
 ROUTE TO MOUNT SINAI WADEY WERDAN, ETC. 131 
 
 Our next day's journey was irksome and trying. It is 
 quite impossible to give an idea of the effect which the 
 Desert and desert-life have upon the mind. The sense 
 of loneliness, and separation from the great world which 
 accompanies it, is sometimes oppressive. And had not the 
 traveller full and undoubting confidence in the integrity of his 
 escort, it would be insupportable. 
 
 In the evening of our second day's journey from Suez (May 
 sixteenth), we encamped in Wadey Werdan, an apparently 
 interminable plain of sand, as smooth as if it had been washed 
 for ages by the ebbings and Sowings of the sea. Our route, 
 during a great part of the day, had been over an almost level 
 surface, intensely white, and exceedingly troublesome to the 
 eyes and comprised Wadey er Reiyaneh, Wadey Kirdhiyeh, 
 Wadey el Ahtha (or Ati), and Wadey Sadr. We passed, 
 during a great part of the day, so near to the Red Sea on our 
 right, as to be able to catch frequent and refreshing glimpses 
 of its blue waters, and the picturesque outlines of mountain 
 scenery on its western shore. On the left, we still continued 
 to have the far-stretching ridge of El Tih, or Gebel er Rahhah; 
 sometimes dwindling down almost to the size of sand hills, at 
 others, rising to the dignity of mountains. While moving 
 forwards in silence (the camels following each other in a string, 
 and thereby preventing much opportunity for conversation), 
 I felt almost as if we were the first travellers in an untrodden 
 waste. Unlike the Desert of Suez, which is abundantly 
 tracked this part of the Arabian Desert scarcely bore the 
 print of a camel's foot. This circumstance greatly increased 
 the sense of loneliness; and might, perhaps, have some 
 tendency to depress the spirits. 
 
 Knowing that a desert route, such as our's, might, and 
 probably would, expose us to many a privation, particularly in 
 regard to fresh water, I resolved during this day, to try how 
 long I could endure the cravings of thirst, although we had 
 in our skins and bottles a sufficient supply of the not very 
 palatable water of Ayun Mousa. From six in the morning, 
 
 K 2
 
 ROUTE TO MOUNT SINAI THIRST. 
 
 till our noontide meal, I was able to abstain without any 
 uncomfortable result. At dinner I took just enough to 
 refresh my lips. During the afternoon and evening march, 
 the sense of thirst became very painful. The sun at 
 length went down, and I hoped the comparative coolness 
 of the evening would bring refreshment ; but it was not 
 so even though the moon, with her cool eyes looked down 
 kindly upon us. Seven o'clock came eight o'clock. I 
 was feverish. My mouth was perfectly dry. I had a feeling 
 of oppression in my throat, a burning pulsation at the tips 
 of my fingers, and a general restlessness over the whole system, 
 while every thought which passed through my mind was 
 associated with running or springing water. I thought again 
 and again of the feathering fountains by St. Peter's, at Rome, 
 and of the delicious springs of water at my own far-distant 
 home. I felt as if I could hold out but little longer, 
 without, perhaps, occasioning evil consequences. I inquired 
 of Sheikh Suleiman, how long our evening's march would 
 continue, so as to reach a suitable halting place : he answered 
 " Another hour." I had hoped to abstain till halting time ; 
 but it was too far distant. I called impatiently for water 
 moistened my lips with the precious, though brackish fluid, 
 rinsed my mouth, and took the smallest draught ; but it was 
 long before the reaction of the system threw off the painful 
 effects of my experiment. 
 
 We slept refreshingly in the silence and solitude of Wadey 
 Werdan ; and on the following morning, about six, the tents 
 were struck the camels loaded, and again we were in 
 motion. There is a melancholy feeling connected with the 
 striking of the tent that temporary home in a waste and 
 weary land. There lie the ashes of the bivouac fires the 
 traces of the camel's knees in the sand, and the circle formed 
 by the circumference of the tent. We advance a few 
 steps look back upon the little spot we are quitting for ever, 
 where we have reposed as securely as if in palaces ceiled 
 with cedar, and painted with vermilion, and think how, 
 during the helpless hours of slumber, the arm which sustains
 
 ROUTE TO MOUNT STNAI. 133 
 
 the universe has been about us, and the ear which is ever 
 open to the prayer of faith, has listened to our petitions. 
 Then, perhaps, comes the thought where will be the next 
 place of repose ? May it not be beneath the sands of the 
 wilderness, where many a pilgrim slumbers in the icy folds 
 of death ? But while the striking of the tent, or "tabernacle," 
 as a scriptural image, full often thus calls to mind the 
 dissolution of these frail bodies, and gives birth to a 
 temporary disquietude, there is a permanent truth the 
 subject of a divine revelation, which comes at once to the 
 relief of the timid flesh " For we know, that if our earthly 
 house of this tabernacle were dissolved, we have a building 
 of God, a house not made with hands, eternal in the heavens." 1 
 I had never understood the full force of this text, till it was 
 thus brought home to me in connection with the habits and 
 provisions of a desert life. 
 
 After quitting Wadey Werdan, we proceeded for about five 
 hours, exposed to the intensest heat we had yet experienced. 
 The route was over a dreary track of sand, and rough, loose 
 fragments of stone, distressing to the eyes, and troublesome 
 for the camels. Here and there we found small patches 
 of stunted, prickly shrubs. While the sun was bearing down 
 upon us, I availed myself of a simple provision which should 
 be strongly recommended to all travellers. 2 Though I had an 
 Arab umbrella, of double cotton (which, by the way, was 
 sometimes fatiguing to carry over head long together), a thick 
 turban, with a tarbouch and cotton skull cap under it, yet the 
 sun seemed to penetrate through them all. I had provided 
 
 1 2 Cor. v. 1. 
 
 2 The experienced traveller in a high temperature, will take care to keep the 
 head thickly covered, so as to be protected against the severity of the vertical sun. 
 Hence, I believe, the adoption of the folds of the turban, as an item of oriental 
 costume. It is the most comfortable thing imaginable. It is desirable to 
 wear flannel, and to have the body well covered, so as to keep up, if possible, a 
 continual perspiration ; for the slow pace of the camel affords but little induce- 
 ment to that natural process ; and the sun, if suffered to act upon the surface, 
 parches the skin, and produces fever. I would clothe myself as thickly for a 
 Desert route, as for a winter journey in Europe.
 
 134 PRECAUTION WATERS OF MARAH. 
 
 a piece of thick cotton cloth, about five or six yards long and 
 two wide, which sometimes served as a sheet at night, when 
 I indulged in such a luxury. I folded this into about a yard 
 square laid it with all its thickness on the top of my head, 
 brought two of its corners to meet under my chin, and fastened 
 them with a pin, so as to form a hood. One of the other 
 corners fell over my face like a veil, the other protected the 
 back of my neck. I never really suffered from the heat, after 
 adopting this simple precaution. We encamped for our noon- 
 tide rest and refreshment at about eleven o'clock, in Wadey 
 el Amarah, where the thermometer stood at 101 Fahrenheit, 
 even in the shade of the tent. 
 
 I took from my small carpet bag the books I carried on the 
 back of my camel for daily use, and found them parched and 
 warped as if they had been laid before an intense fire. At 
 four o'clock we resumed our journey ; and after about two 
 hours and a half of wearisome riding, some of our Arabs 
 pointed to a distant clump or two of stunted palms, as marking 
 the locality of Bir Howarah, which has been almost unani- 
 mously agreed on by travellers, as the bitter waters of Marah, 
 of which the people of Israel could not drink. 1 Assuredly, 
 if they are not the bitter waters referred to in Scripture none 
 other are to be found, at all agreeing with the position which 
 seems to be assigned to them in the scripturally-defined route 
 of the children of Israel. Pressing onwards with due speed, 
 we soon arrived at the wells, which are small, and lie 
 embedded as it were in a low sand hill. It was here then, 
 that the children of Israel "murmured against Moses, saying, 
 What shall we drink?" And here, too, it was, that the 
 honoured servant of Jehovah " cried unto the Lord, and the 
 Lord shewed him , tree, which, when he had cast into 
 the waters, the waters were made sweet." 2 We dismounted, 
 on our arrival, and led up the camels to the wells. Some 
 travellers assert that the water is still so bitter, that neither 
 Arabs nor camels will drink of it. It may be so, in certain 
 
 1 Exodus xv. 23. Exodus xv. 25.
 
 WATERS OF MARAH WADEY GHURTJNDEL. 135 
 
 seasons of the year; but on this occasion, not one of the 
 camels refused it. The servants drank a draught, and so 
 did some of the Bedaween. I also tasted it. Certainly it 
 was not such water as I should be willing to drink, except I 
 were fainting with thirst, and deprived of all other. Though 
 not so disagreeable at first, yet it leaves a soapy flavour in the 
 mouth. Surely, none but those who have thirsted in the 
 Desert, have learnt to prize, as they ought, the real blessing 
 of good water. It is with this, as with most of the ordinary 
 bounties of God they are little esteemed, and awaken, too 
 generally, but slight returns of gratitude, because they are 
 common. Every ordinary mercy, such as light, food, air, water, 
 health, consciousness, power, safety nay, the various secret 
 processes of nature around us, invisible to our perception, 
 but all ministering to one great end, each deserves the full 
 tribute of a ceaseless gratitude, and a reverential using. 
 
 After spending a quarter of an hour at Bir Howarah, 
 we remounted and pursued our course over a rugged and 
 broken plain, sometimes intersected with low hills and harsh 
 precipices, in which the savageness of the wilderness began to 
 be apparent ; when at length, about eight o'clock, by the light 
 of a lovely moon, we entered Wadey Ghurundel, a gracefully 
 undulated sandy territory, scattered over with thick clumps 
 of the tamarisk tree and small palms, which gave it the 
 appearance of an ornamental plantation. The efiect of this 
 was indeed delightful, after the scene through which we had 
 passed before sunset. While preparing for encampment, we 
 saw at a distance, among the tamarisk trees, the glimmering 
 of some Bedaween fires, which, under other circumstances, 
 and if in an enemy's country, would have occasioned some 
 apprehension; but we were now among friends in the 
 territory of the Oualed Said, one of the three tribes of the 
 peninsula of Sinai, to which Sheikh Suleiman belonged. 
 When we were encamped, the Arabs took the camels and 
 water skins to a spot about an hour distant from the direct 
 route, in order to get a supply of water, of which there is 
 usually plenty, and of a tolerable quality. The water brought
 
 136 ROUTE TO MOUNT SINAI ELIM WILDERNESS OF SIN. 
 
 from Ayun Mousa had become offensive, and we longed for a 
 change. The spot to which the Arabs went for water, is now, 
 I believe, generally agreed upon as the Elim of Scripture, 
 where, at the time of the exodus of Israel, there were " twelve 
 wells of water, and three score and ten palm trees," by which 
 they encamped. 1 I was too fatigued to visit these wells ; and 
 it would have occasioned inconvenience had I done so on 
 the following morning. I am satisfied, however, that if Bir 
 Howarah be the Marah of scripture, then Elim must be in 
 Wadey Ghurundel. This is the view of Burckhardt ; and as 
 to the state of the locality in his time, he uses an argument, 
 which would equally apply to all future times. He says, 
 "the non-existence of twelve wells at Ghurundel, must not be 
 considered as evidence against the foregoing conjecture ; for 
 Niebuhr says that his companions obtained water here by 
 digging to a very great depth, and there was a great 
 plenty of it when I passed ; water, in fact, is readily found 
 by digging, in every fertile valley of Arabia, and wells are 
 thus easily formed, which are as quickly filled up again by 
 the sands." 2 
 
 On the following morning, quitting Wadey Ghurundel, we 
 entered upon the " Wilderness of Sin," which Moses describes 
 as lying " between Elim and Sinai ;" and here we could but 
 call to mind God's wondrous dealing with his murmuring 
 people, in giving them manna from heaven, while they were 
 saying, " Would to God we had died by the hand of the Lord 
 in the laud of Egypt, when we sat by the flesh pots, and when 
 we did eat bread to the full ; for ye have brought us forth 
 into this wilderness, to kill this whole assembly with hunger." 3 
 It was a heart-stirring picture for the imagination to form, 
 of the people gathering up, in this strange and desolate region, 
 a provision so peculiar, and so marvellously made ; of which 
 " he that gathered much had nothing over, and he that gathered 
 little had no lack." 4 
 
 1 Exodus xv. 27. 2 See Burckhardt, p. 473. 
 
 3 Exodus xvi. 13. * Exodus xvi. 18.
 
 WILDERNESS OF SIN CHILDREN OF ISRAEL. 137 
 
 In order to have a sympathy with the people of Israel in 
 their impatient murmuring, it is needful to have tracked 
 them in the route they took ; to have gazed upon the savage 
 scenes of desolation on which they gazed; and to have 
 endeavoured, in imagination, to identify one's self with them 
 in the history of their wanderings and their privations, their 
 temptations and their trials, as well as in their experience 
 of God's irresistible might and power. While we are strangers 
 to the Desert, its wildness and its barrenness, and to that 
 sense of despondency and solitude, even amidst numbers, 
 which its very aspect is so calculated to engender, we pause 
 and wonder over the sacred narrative of their hardness and 
 unbelief. " How could they be so rebellious so unbelieving ?" 
 we piously exclaim. The answer is they were men, under 
 a dispensation of wonders and of trials, to which human flesh 
 had never before been subject. Their sense of what was 
 present was so intense, as to make them dead to the past, and 
 almost hopeless for the future. And the Holy Ghost the 
 Comforter, was not then given. But, let us stand with them 
 in the Desert and see them destitute of all visible means 
 of sustenance for so vast a multitude, aud cut off from every 
 visible comfort that the frail flesh of man clings to with the 
 promises of an unseen though felt Godhead to look to as 
 the ground of such expectations as they might venture to 
 entertain ; and though we lament that they should tempt God in 
 the wilderness, and freely admit the sin of their so doing, we 
 are not at a loss for a reason why those, who had all their lives 
 been accustomed to walk "by sight," should, in circumstances 
 of unparalleled difficulty and perplexity, find it hard to walk 
 "by faith" Do not even we find it difficult to walk by faith; 
 through the wilderness of this world though in the light 
 of a clearer revelation, and under a nobler leader than ever 
 Israel had ; and though taught from our infancy, on the very 
 highest authority, that our business is to walk by faith, and not 
 by sight ? While we rightly censure, and utter our indignation 
 against, the sin of Israel which God signally punished 
 overthrowing many of them in the wilderness, on one day 
 three and twenty thousand destroying some by serpents and
 
 138 WADEY USSEIT WADEY TIIAL WADEY I10MRR. 
 
 others by "the destroyer" let us never forget the declaration 
 of the Apostle, that "all these things happened unto them 
 for ensamples ;" and that the record of them is "written for 
 our admonition, upon whom the ends of the world are come." 
 "Wherefore, let him that thinketh he standeth, take heed 
 lest he fall." 1 
 
 While quitting our encampment in Wadey Ghurundel, 
 one of the Arabs ran beside my camel, and presented me 
 with some small red fruit, somewhat resembling the grains 
 of a pomegranate. They were of a fresh acid flavour, not 
 unlike the common red currant. These are commonly called 
 homrr-berries, and, according to Burckhardt, are the fruit 
 of the Gharkad the Peganum retusum of Forskal, which is 
 to be met with in the sands of the Delta, on the coast of the 
 Mediterranean, as well as in the peninsula of Sinai. The 
 Arabs eat this refreshing fruit abundantly, and sometimes 
 make it into a sort of conserve. The question has been raised 
 by travellers, whether it might not have been used by Moses 
 for sweetening the waters of Marah ; and it is partly grounded 
 on the Arabic translation of the passage in Exodus, in which 
 the transaction is referred to. 2 But the simple answer to the 
 question is, that the transaction was evidently a miraculous 
 one, and not in any degree dependant for its success upon the 
 nature or quality of the medium employed. 
 
 Beyond Wadey Ghurundel, the widely-extended Desert-plain 
 ceases, and is exchanged for bold, rugged and savage rocks, 
 with sometimes very narrow and wild passes between. After a 
 wearisome march, during which we passed through Wadey 
 Usseit, and Wadey Thai, rendered doubly savage and gloomy 
 by the rapidly coming shades which were gathering over us, 
 we at length reached Wadey Homrr, which presented a 
 magnificent amphitheatre of mountains ; and by the brilliant 
 
 1 1 Corinthians x. 112. 
 
 2 The Arabic version is "And the Lord shewed him something of a tree, 
 which, when he had cast into the waters," &c. not the tree itself: why not 
 the fruit of the Gharkad ?
 
 ROUTE TO MOUNT SINAI WADEY NASSB. 139 
 
 illumination of the moon, shewed like an impressive, yet lovely 
 , solitude in which to encamp for the night. Suleiman would 
 fain have prevailed on us to march two hours further ; but we 
 were worn by the day's fatigue, and longed for repose. 
 
 On the following morning, by about six o'clock, w r e turned 
 our backs upon this charming encampment, and enjoyed a 
 delightfully mild temperature the sun being occasionally 
 obscured by clouds. We proceeded through a wild and stony 
 pass, hemmed in, on either side, by rugged and precipitous 
 rocks of sandstone, so curiously constructed, and so hoary 
 with age, that if a cannon had been fired in the midst 
 of them, one could have readily expected that the vast masses 
 would topple from their bases, and crumble into the smallest 
 fragments. The echo, too, was very remarkable, and almost 
 conveyed the idea that the rocks were porous throughout. 
 In about three hours and a half after leaving Wadey 
 Homrr, we came in sight of Wadey Nassb, with the heights 
 of Surabet el Khadim towering above. In about another 
 hour, after suffering severely from the hot khamseen wind, 
 blowing in our faces like blasts from a furnace, we descended 
 into Wadey Nassb, one of the wildest and most savage scenes 
 that the imagination can conceive. In one part was a 
 vast plain, into which it seemed as if mountains, torn from 
 their bases, had been cast in dire confusion, and as if, from 
 the apparently hewn and chiseled fragments temples, towns, 
 and cities, might soon be bidden into existence. The rocks 
 which surround this strange scene, and, indeed, all those 
 about Wadey Nassb, appear as though they had been shaped 
 into their present forms by the tool of the artizan ; tier upon 
 tier, cornice upon cornice, and frieze upon frieze, extend 
 far and wide their fantastic natural garniture, as if they had 
 once been the habitations of a gigantic race who have passed 
 away into the land of forgetfulness, to which this had been 
 the entrance. 
 
 In Wadey Nassb is a noble overhanging sandstone rock, 
 under which, I suppose, every traveller by this route to Mount
 
 140 IIOUTE TO MOUNT SINAI WADEY NASSB. 
 
 Sinai, has reposed, affording as it docs a most perfect shelter 
 from the severity of the vertical sun. It was noon when we 
 reached it. And, surely, when the hot khamsecn had become 
 almost unendurable, it served not only as a place of refuge, 
 but a charming illustration of the scriptural image " the 
 shadow of a great rock in a weary land." I may have 
 understood that image as intended to set forth Christ to the 
 worn and weary sinner, but till I reclined under the shadow 
 of that great rock, I never felt the power of it. If the khamseen 
 had not been blowing, it would have afforded all the shelter 
 we needed ; but, as it was, we were glad to fix up the drapery 
 of the tent in front, so as to cut off the hot currents which 
 else would have continued to parch us. It was pleasant to 
 think that, in this very spot, Niebuhr, Seetzen, Burckhardt, 
 Laborde, and many other enterprising and inquiring spirits 
 had reposed and meditated. 
 
 Rising from our noontide rest, we continued our way 
 through the bold, rugged pass of Wadey Nassb, for about 
 two hours more, during which I observed the remarkable 
 formation of the rocks throughout. The strata were as 
 perfectly horizontal as if they had been laid with a level, and 
 most exactly squared. To my mind, excited, perhaps, by 
 heat and fatigue, the silence and bleak solitude of this 
 spot was very impressive. One felt out of the world; all 
 associations of civilized life seemed to pass away as we 
 journeyed on with our wild companions, to whom these 
 scenes were the familiar and fitting home. And, certainly, I 
 had already seen enough to convince me that it must have 
 been a most chimerical attempt of Mehemet Ali, when, in a 
 country such as this, he sought, by force of arms, to reduce to 
 subjection the Bedaween of the peninsula of Sinai. He has 
 ever since acted upon a wiser policy. 
 
 As we were winding our way slowly towards the termination 
 of Wadey Nassb, we met two groups of Bedawee children, 
 at small distances from each other; and on the crumbling 
 rocks were more, scampering about like little brown monkeys.
 
 ARAB FAMILIES RAMEL MOREKH. 141 
 
 The appearance of these children gave token that an 
 encampment was at hand, a part of which, with its black 
 tents, we soon descried at a little distance. The children 
 were intelligent and sunny-looking creatures free and agile 
 of limb. Some of those who were of the first group mended 
 their speed to meet our party, when the usual greetings 
 silent, solemn, and graceful were exchanged. It was a 
 meeting of familiar faces. When we had come nearly 
 within reach of the second party, who were tending a herd 
 of goats, one fine boy, of about twelve years old, sprang out 
 from among the rest and ran up to Sheikh Suleiman, saluting 
 him with that quiet reverence which would be rendered to a 
 patriarch. I thought it was a beautiful picture, as I gazed 
 upon the portly father and the graceful son. Suleiman saw 
 how my attention was directed, and being near beside me at 
 the time, he presented his son to me, with a sparkling of 
 parental joy on his dark features. The boy gazed up towards 
 me. I reached down my hand to him he touched the tips 
 of my fingers, pressed his own to his lips and we were 
 friends. Both father and son soon bade us farewell for a time, 
 to join the encampment of their tribe the former promising to 
 join us again in the course of the next day's march. Gathering 
 together the rest of our Bedaween, we continued our route 
 over a most fatiguing succession of sandy plains and sand 
 hills, on which were to be seen scattered tufts of prickly 
 herbage. Behind us lay the wild picture of Wadey Nassb : 
 on our left, the long range of Gebel el Tih, above which we 
 were considerably elevated. The sun went down beautifully, 
 tinging the whole range of Gebel el Tih with a rosy hue. 
 Scarcely had the sun declined, when thick mists began to 
 rise from the plains which lay on the western side of the 
 mountain range. They extended themselves with wonderful 
 rapidity, and soon we were encompassed by them, as if by 
 the densest fog. This lasted for the greater part of an hour, 
 when they gradually dispersed, and soon our tents were 
 pitched for the night, in Ram el Morekh or Debhet er 
 Ramleh a wide sandy plain, affording slight herbage for the 
 camels.
 
 142 WADEY I3KRAH ARAB BURIAL-GROUND. 
 
 Soon after commencing our journey on the next morning, we 
 struck into Wacley Berah, a bold rocky pass, with finely-lined 
 mountain views to the right and left. It increased in massive 
 grandeur as we advanced. But the khamseen was almost 
 stifling ; and at noon the thermometer stood at 121 Fahrenheit, 
 at the door of the tent. It was a trying and exhausting 
 day. Sheikh Suleiman returned to us according to his 
 promise, and paid his respects to us in the tent. As we 
 were about to enter Wadey Berah, we noticed on our left, 
 an Arab burial-place. The graves were marked by rough 
 fragments of stone placed upright, some of which had been 
 garnished with slips of the slender varieties of trees and 
 plants which that part of the Desert affords. As we passed 
 on, we observed two of our Bedaween, who had for a short 
 time been absent from the caravan, approaching this retired 
 nook of death in the midst of the mountains, bearing in their 
 hands some of these graceful offerings ; which , having disposed 
 of on the graves of some dear friend or relation, according to 
 the custom of their tribes, they rejoined us with cheerful and 
 happy looks. It is very remarkable how generally prevalent 
 is the habit of garnishing with flowers or shrubs, the graves 
 of the dead. There is a charming train of thought connected 
 with it, which arises out of a feeling one loves to cherish. 
 
 The whole day's journey through Wadey Berah was 
 wearisome indeed frowned upon as we were, by massive 
 mountains, which appeared as if they had been scorched and 
 blackened by volcanic fires. We were obliged to proceed 
 slowly and cautiously over passes covered with fragments 
 of large and loose stones. During the greater part of the 
 day we were ascending, and hourly advancing towards the 
 venerable spot in which Jehovah spake from the cloud, amidst 
 the thunderings and lightenings with which the mountain 
 quaked and trembled greatly. It was, indeed, a solemn 
 march. Before the sun went down, we reached a more open 
 pass, which by and by expanded into a broad plain, flanked 
 on either side by mountains, less grim and savage in their 
 appearance than those we had previously passed, but
 
 WADEY SHEIKH SINAITE GROUP. 143 
 
 ponderous and lofty. This was the entrance to Wadey 
 Sheikh, from which the route lies direct onwards to Mount 
 Sinai. While passing over the plain, we saw large flocks 
 of goats browsing amidst its scanty herbage, attended by a few 
 young Arabs, who approached to greet our party. Several 
 black tents were to be seen at a distance, belonging to the 
 tribe of Oualed Said. The moon rose upon us as we entered 
 Wadey Sheikh weary and anxious for the halting time. 
 Sheikh Suleiman was full of life and buoyant spirits. He 
 was now near his second home ; for, according to Musselman 
 habits, he had two wives, and of course two separate establish- 
 ments; one of which we had partly seen in Wadey Nassb. 
 He was desirous of pressing on still further; but, at our 
 bidding, he gave the word to halt; and soon our comfortable 
 little desert-home was formed, and our fires were blazing. 
 
 I walked out into the sweet moonlight to enjoy the freshness 
 of the evening. The moon was getting high, and flinging her 
 soft beams on mountain ridges, distant and near. 
 
 "What is yonder mass of mountain," said I, "whose 
 bold outline is faintly traced in the distance, upon the pale 
 grey of the south?" "It is the Sinaite group of mountains," 
 said Hassenein. I inquired more minutely "Am I now 
 gazing on Mount Sinai?" "No," replied he, "the peaks 
 of Mount Sinai are not visible from hence they lie beyond ; 
 you will see them tomorrow." 
 
 It was, however, quite enough for me. I could then sit 
 at the door of the tent, and thence fix my gaze upon the 
 Sinaite group, and indulge the thought, that there over 
 that venerable mass: 
 
 " The Lord descended from above, 
 And bowed the heavens high." 
 
 Early almost with the morning dawn of the tenth day 
 after quitting Cairo, we entered upon the route which we
 
 144 WADEY SHEIKH GEBEL SERBAL. 
 
 hoped would safely terminate at the sacred mountain of God. 
 The pass through Wadey Sheikh, in which we commenced 
 our march, was bold and beautiful; affording, moreover, 
 scanty pasturage and several small shrubs, some having the 
 appearance of broom. On the right, was one of the most 
 impressive objects of mountain scenery I ever beheld so 
 gracefully yet majestically elevated, with its many almost 
 perpendicular peaks, and tinted with an empurpled rosy hue 
 by the fresh beams of the young sun. Surrounded by other 
 mountains of less magnitude frowning in rugged majesty, 
 its singularly beautiful outline and colour made me look 
 upon it as the aristocrat in the scene. It was the group 
 of Gebel Serbal, on which some, under pretence of an early 
 tradition, have endeavoured to fix the honour of being the 
 true Mount Sinai of scripture ; but this seems now to be 
 generally abandoned. 
 
 While passing through Wadey Sheikh, Suleiman intimated 
 his intention of proceeding to his encampment, there to 
 remain, during our stay at Mount Sinai. He invited us to 
 visit, and share Arab hospitality with him in his own 
 wilderness habitation. We were anxious, however, to arrive 
 with as little delay as possible, and so declined the invitation, 
 when he turned off with a courteous salaam, leaving us, under 
 a sufficient escort, to proceed by way of Wadey Hawy, our 
 baggage camels having taken a more circuitous, but less 
 fatiguing and difficult route, eastward. 
 
 After parting with Suleiman, we proceeded for about an 
 hour, when the wild and extremely difficult pass of Wadey 
 Hawy opened before us. It was one of those ways which 
 would almost make the heart of a worn and weary traveller 
 sink within him. We were tolerably well prepared at the early 
 part of the day in which we entered it. It is of continuous 
 and steep ascent, and appears to be the bed of a vast mountain 
 torrent. Masses of rock, of surprising magnitude, seem to 
 have been flung together by some natural convulsion, and lie
 
 WADEY HAWY PLAIN OF EL RAHA. 145 
 
 in some parts like a staircase for a race of giants. Not a 
 person was to be seen not a voice to be heard, except our 
 own. On both sides of this steep pass, the mountain crags 
 sometimes hung over, in such a way as almost to awaken 
 the apprehension that a breeze a breath might bring them 
 thundering down upon us. Here and there was a stunted 
 wild fig tree, together with small date trees, and other 
 slight symptoms of vegetation ; and many a dry spot gave 
 token of having been the place of deposit for water; but 
 not a drop was then to be found. At noon we had reached 
 nearly the middle of this wild pass, where was a cave of 
 curious natural construction, under a vast mass of impending 
 rock such a cave, perhaps, as the prophet Elijah took shelter 
 in when fleeing from Jezebel towards Horeb. It was a 
 fitting place of repose for a prophet of the Lord. Here we 
 resolved to take our noontide rest and refreshment. So, 
 dismounting at once, we spread our segaddehs in the cave, 
 and enjoyed the most refreshing slumber, and rose ready for 
 our homely meal of Arab bread, dates, figs, and rather muddy 
 water the last, little supply that remained for us, before 
 reaching Mount Sinai. 
 
 Looking back from the cave upon the route by which we 
 had approached it, a picture of the wildest grandeur was 
 presented, but not at all inferior to that which immediately 
 awaited us; for, looking upwards, the way seemed almost 
 impracticable. It was quite out of the question to proceed 
 on the backs of our camels ; so, committing them to the care 
 of our guides, we commenced the second stage of Wadey 
 Hawy, on foot. An hour's continual effort of this kind, 
 brought us into a more manageable track for the camels, when 
 we again mounted and continued the ascent, which when 
 gained, ushered us into the extensive plain of El Raha the 
 spot in which I am firmly persuaded the people of Israel 
 were gathered for the purpose of receiving the law. 
 
 Scarcely had we entered upon the plain, when in front 
 of us, due south, stood -the venerable object of our desire
 
 146 HOREB SINAI. 
 
 Horeb Sinai the mountain of the Lord. 1 I cannot well 
 define, so as to make intelligible to others, the state of my 
 mind at this time. I was not excited. There was no gush 
 of enthusiasm in my heart no religious fervour. I felt it 
 difficult to realize the fact, that my eyes were fixed upon the 
 hoar Mount, with which was connected so wondrous and so 
 sacred a story second in importance, only to that of the 
 incarnation of the Godhead. I feel far more while writing 
 this page, than I did when gazing on the scene then before me. 
 One of our Arabs called my attention to the mountain 
 pointing to it, and repeatedly saying "Gebel Mousa" (which 
 is the Arab name of Horeb and Sinai), and looking up in my 
 face as if to see what effect it had upon me. 
 
 Half an hour's progress, across the plain, brought us within 
 sight of the little Greek Convent of Santa Katarina. 2 Oh ! it 
 was a gladdening sight. It was the first human habitation 
 we had seen since quitting Suez. It appeared little more 
 than a white speck amidst the gloomy vastness of the Sinaite 
 group a little nest of repose amidst gigantic tokens of natural 
 convulsion. As we slowly advanced, we were enabled to form 
 a general idea of this remarkable habitation. It is a somewhat 
 castellated, quadrangular building with a little shew of forti- 
 
 1 The attentive reader of Scripture will have observed that Horeb is no 
 where spoken of as a distinct mountain, but rather as a mountainous district, 
 in which Sinai the mountain of God, is situate, and of which it is really a 
 part. The recollection of this suggests the true answer to be given to infidel 
 writers, who have endeavoured to throw suspicion on the divine records, 
 by alleging a discrepancy in reference to those transactions which took place 
 on Sinai and in Horeb. Compare Exodus xix. and xx. with Deut. v. 2, 
 from which we find that the giving of the law on Sinai, is spoken of as 
 having taken place in Horeb. Compare Exodus xxxii. (which certainly proves 
 that the people were encamped at the base of Sinai} with Deut. ix. 8, 9, 
 and Psalm cvi. 9, which speak of Horeb, as the scene of their idolatry. 
 The seeming discrepancy at once disappears on a reference to Exodus iii. and 
 xix., in which the author of that book plainly uses the terms Horeb and Sinai 
 indifferently, to designate the same place. That the Jews were accustomed to 
 this, is evident from Josephus (Antiquities of the Jews, book i. chap. 12.) 
 
 2 Or, as I believe the Greek Church calls it" The Monastery of the 
 Transfiguration. ' '
 
 SINAI CONVENT OF SANTA KATARINA. 147 
 
 fication. Its walls are high, and capable of making sufficient 
 resistance against such missiles as Arabs are accustomed to use, 
 though constructed with stones and mud, or clay, which seems 
 never to have attained to any very great degree of solidity. 1 
 
 We approached from the north, which point presents 
 the best view; for we were enabled to look down, as 
 we approached from a distance, upon a garden enclosed 
 by a continuation of the convent walls, in which olives, 
 vines, cypresses, apricots, and other trees were clothed 
 in their bright livery of lovely green. As I gazed 
 upon these objects, I thought I had never before really 
 understood and felt the charm of green, as a colour. All 
 appeared so fresh so luxuriant so cool, in the midst of the 
 wilderness of savage granite, by which it was surrounded. 
 My lips, my mind, my imagination were thirsty all thirsty 
 and craving. The sight of green things, so fresh, associated 
 with them, in my mind, the idea of water : I fancied I could 
 almost hear it trickling from rock to rock or humming its 
 quiet course over sparkling pebbly beds. How intense the 
 imaginative faculty thus becomes, when called into action by 
 some pressing physical want. They act upon each other. I 
 was a weary pilgrim. I longed for quiet and repose. How 
 charming the little convent and its sweet green garniture 
 appeared. I looked towards it with emotion, as a spot that 
 was to afford me shelter to be my brief home there at 
 the foot of the mount of God apart from the great world 
 in which man strives with man, and where the dove-pinion 
 of peace rarely nestles. 
 
 Often and often, when my spirit has been sad ; when 
 
 disappointment and disquietude have hung upon the beatings 
 of my heart have I indulged the recollection of that picture 
 of unutterable repose. I can do it now : oh, how vividly ! 
 
 1 The site of this Convent is said to be five thousand four hundred and twenty 
 feet above the level of the Red Sea. The height of Mount Sinai itself, is two 
 thousand and twenty above the site of the convent, and is therefore seven 
 thousand four hundred and forty feet above the level of the sea.
 
 ARRIVAL AT SANTA KATARINA. 
 
 After nearly another hour we had mastered the plain of El 
 Raha, and for a time lost sight of the Convent, hidden as 
 it was, by the projecting crags which formed a narrow, rocky 
 pass or ravine, at the extremity of the plain. We entered 
 the pass. The Convent was near at hand. We glided slowly 
 along towards its rude walls. Finding the way rough and 
 troublesome, we dismounted, and leisurely on foot approached 
 the main entrance, which is on the eastern side ; and how 
 awfully did the majestic mountain-ranges, right and left, look 
 down upon us. We arrived; and soon were surrounded 
 by a troop of wild and fiery-eyed Bedaween retainers of, 
 and dependants upon, the monks of Santa Katarina among 
 the younger of which wild birds was one of the most 
 magnificent studies for a painter I ever beheld. He was 
 as graceful as his mountain-home and desert-breeding could 
 make him. " Backsheech backsheech," was the general cry, 
 while we waited for admission within the convent walls. 
 
 Our arrival was soon announced to the inmates, and 
 preparations were made for our reception. 
 
 On account of the unmanageable ferocity of the Bedaween 
 in past years, before the friendly footing on which they 
 now live with the monks was established, all usual modes 
 of entrance were blocked up; and in this state they still 
 continue ; so that the traveller is admitted by a door at least 
 thirty feet from the ground, to which he and his baggage are 
 elevated by a kind of crane, from which a rope, moved by 
 a windlass within, is let down, and in which he seats himself, 
 as in a swing. 
 
 We had not long stood beneath the entrance, before the 
 rope descended for our credentials ; and immediately our 
 letter of recommendation from the superior of the Greek 
 Convent at Cairo, was drawn up for inspection, while several 
 bearded heads were peeping out to reconnoitre our persons 
 and escort. Soon the rope returned, into which we fixed 
 ourselves, and were each drawn up by a separate process of the
 
 CONVENT OF SANTA KATARINA. 149 
 
 / 
 
 windlass not at any great speed; for every thing within 
 the convent of Santa Katarina moves at a slow and sleepy 
 pace. On reaching the elevated portal, we found a small, 
 rude landing place, where the Superior a hale, white-bearded 
 man of middle age, received us with a gentle courtesy, 
 which indicated our welcome. Passing thence into the 
 interior of the convent we were immediately conducted 
 down an inclined plane and a flight of rude steps, and then up 
 another, which brought us to an open gallery, overlooking a 
 great part of the building, from which opened off four small 
 cells, conveniently furnished with carpets and cushions with 
 a little lamp suspended in each for burning olive oil during 
 the night. One of these was assigned to each of us, and 
 a third to our servants and soon all our desert-furniture 
 was gathered together about us, not an article of which was 
 missing. In addition to these things, a small sheep had been 
 purchased of the Bedaween, which was dressed and hung up 
 for use, as the provisions afforded by the convent are of the 
 most spare and slender description ; animal food of all kinds 
 being forbidden by the rules of the order. 
 
 While seated at the door of our cells, we were soon waited on 
 by several of the monks one bearing a bason, and another a 
 large ewer of water, with clean white napkins. While we held 
 our hands over the bason, he poured the cool water upon the 
 parched skin, which afforded a refreshment that was extremely 
 delightful. Another brought a bountiful supply of water, 
 bright and sparkling, from the convent well, for drinking. I 
 took a fearfully long draught of it and felt as if sweet, fresh 
 water were the only beverage fit for man. It was almost too 
 delicious. We had been drinking water little better than diluted 
 mud, for several days previous to our arrival. While our 
 meal was in preparation, they served us with a fragrant cup 
 of coffee; and in these slight and simple matters of refreshment 
 and restoration, I felt as if all the toils of travel might be 
 soon forgotten. How charming it was to be thus housed, 
 after eleven days of toilsome vagrancy dwelling in tents 
 among wild Arabs lawless men. How delightful to have
 
 150 CONVENT OF SANTA KATARINA. 
 
 our eyes resting no longer upon the dry and brown sands 
 and rugged mountain-passes of the Desert but upon trellised 
 grape vines, of the freshest and most luxuriant verdancy, 
 fresher and greener, I thought, than I had ever beheld before ; 
 and upon cypresses and other fair and graceful trees and 
 flowers, in little patches and terraces, growing like youth and 
 innocence in the midst of a bleak and dreary world. 
 
 The little cells which we inhabited, had their whitewashed 
 walls written over, in many places, with the names of travellers 
 from most parts of Europe, who had, from time to time, like 
 ourselves, been tenants for a brief space, and shared the 
 hospitality of these kindly monks. 
 
 The day after our arrival was Trinity Sunday the 
 anniversary of my consecration to God for the work of the 
 ministry. The recollection of this added much to the 
 solemnity of my position, while thus reposing at the foot of the 
 holy mountain. Many a humbling thought held possession 
 of my mind, while I looked back upon the past ; and many a 
 holy resolution for the future absorbed my soul. Had I 
 fulfilled my high trust ? Was I free from the blood of all 
 men ? Would God still bear with me and endue me with that 
 grace that should hereafter make me a more faithful and able 
 minister of the New Testament ? It was a solemn time. We 
 attended one of the sabbath services in the Church of the 
 Convent ; but, of course, it was totally unedifying to those 
 who had been brought up in the light of the "faith once 
 delivered to the saints." It was disfigured by some of the 
 worst of those errors, follies, and corruptions which characterize 
 the Church of Rome. The Church itself abounds with tawdry 
 decoration, paintings, and gildings, in the worst possible 
 taste, after the manner of the Greeks ; yet, considering the 
 locality, it is quite surprising. 1 There are three daily, and one 
 
 1 This Church was founded by the Emperor Justinian, and is in a good state 
 of preservation. I could but indulge the wish, however fruitless, at present, 
 that instead of what it is, it could be made the centre point of a pure protestant 
 mission to the Bedaweeu of the peninsula of Sinai and through them, to the
 
 CONVENT OF SANTA KATAR1NA. 151 
 
 midnight service ; to the latter of which, the monks rise from 
 their beds, summoned by sounds emitted from a piece of hard 
 dry wood, suspended by a cord, and struck with a mallet, first in 
 slow strokes, which are gradually increased to great rapidity. 
 
 We were not invited to partake of the common meals 
 of the fraternity, but received every kindness and civility from 
 these simple-hearted recluses, who paid us frequent visits, 
 though we were unable to maintain any lengthened or satis- 
 factory conversation with them. On one occasion, I took in 
 my hand the Book of the Greek Ritual, a copy of which 
 was in my cell, and began reading one of the gospel 
 portions aloud, according to the pronunciation adopted in our 
 universities. One of the monks, though unaccustomed to such 
 a pronunciation, recognised the language from my lips, and 
 looking over the book as I read, gave me the accentuated 
 pronunciation of the modern Greek. Oh ! how I longed to be 
 able to preach Christ to him, instead of spending time upon 
 tones and accents. 
 
 While walking in the convent garden, a young monk a 
 Russian who spoke eleven languages, introduced himself to 
 us. He was evidently out of health. He asked me for medicine. 
 I gave him what I thought might be useful. I saw him 
 several times. The medicine seemed to have been beneficial. 
 On leaving the Convent, I presented him with a little supply 
 for future use. He smiled gratefully upon me, and kissed 
 me on the shoulder when I bade him farewell. 
 
 So far as my observations could go, the poor monks appeared 
 to be in a state of sad ignorance. How should it be otherwise ? 
 The intellect must needs contract for want of due exercise and 
 means of expansion. Pure Christianity if they had it, would 
 expand both the intellect and the heart. The corruptions 
 
 rest of the family of Ishmael. I cannot but think there is something reserved in 
 the purposes of God for this interesting and peculiar people ; and I am persuaded 
 that their spiritual prospects are bound up in the restoration of Israel. See 
 Isaiah xix. 1825.
 
 152 CHAPEL OF THE BURNING BUSH. 
 
 and legends of the Greek no less than of the Roman Church, 
 may excite and stimulate the imagination ; but they leave the 
 heart cold and barren. The substantialities of the true faith 
 are buried in its mere appendages. The latter are near at 
 hand, and are embraced. The former are distant and 
 uninviting. 
 
 Beside the Convent Church, there are three principal objects 
 of interest to visitors. The first of these is the traditionary 
 locality of the burning bush : l the next, the convent library : 
 the third, is the catacomb. To each we made a point of 
 obtaining admission, and were kindly attended by the superior, 
 and several monks. 
 
 The chapel of the burning bush is a subterraneous structure, 
 nearly under the high altar; and is approached by a 
 conveniently formed stone stair. On reaching the little chapel, 
 the superior set us an example, by putting off his shoes, 
 which we readily followed. [" Put off thy shoes from off thy 
 feet, for the place wherein thou standest is holy ground."] 
 The chapel is nearly circular, and the precise spot which 
 tradition has assigned to the divine mystery of the burning 
 bush, is illuminated by three suspended lamps, which are kept 
 constantly burning. A simple altar, with its usual pictorial 
 furniture, completes the appointments of this curious spot. It 
 is no part of the disposition of my mind to exercise either 
 needless belief, or rash incredulity, in reference to localities 
 traditionally sacred. It might have been on this very spot, 
 as indicated by the burning lamps, that the Angel of the 
 Lord appeared unto Moses in a flame of fire, out of the midst 
 of the bush for certainly, it was at "the back side of the 
 desert" at the mountain of God at Horeb. But the fact 
 transacted, is the matter which God intended should be 
 permanently known and remembered. And it never has 
 been, and never will be, forgotten. If an indubitable proof 
 of the precise locality had been necessary, in order to ensure 
 
 'See Exodus Ui. 110.
 
 CONVENT LIBRARY CATACOMB. 153 
 
 the belief of the fact, then I am persuaded God would not 
 have suffered any ground of doubt to exist. But if, on the 
 contrary, a knowledge of the exact spot would only have the 
 effect of enlisting the imaginative faculty on the side of faith, 
 I think we may well do without the certainty, and have no 
 right to expect it. The more we find ourselves able to 
 walk by sight, the less shall we be disposed to walk by 
 faith. Notwithstanding these remarks, I freely confess it was 
 no small gratification, when afterwards reading the record 
 of this remarkable transaction, to feel assured, that if my foot 
 had not actually pressed the spot on which Jehovah-Jesus 
 appeared in the unconsumed, though burning bush yet that 
 certainly it was in Horeb and that I, myself, had been in 
 Horeb. This was approximation enough for me. 
 
 The convent library nearly adjoins the residence of the 
 superior. In former days, it was, I believe, rich in valuable 
 lore. It is still crowded with books, in the direst disorder 
 and confusion imaginable. They are mostly in the Greek 
 and Arabic languages. Literary research seems not to lie 
 within the province of the good fathers of Santa Katarina. 
 Few men, I think, could bring the full powers of their mind 
 to bear on literary pursuits, for the sake of the mere gratifi- 
 cation which they afford, or for the immediate personal result 
 of them. Some can, and have done so; but most men look to 
 the fame and influence which learning procures for its toilsome 
 possessor ; while a happy few labour and toil and strive, in 
 the blessed hope of enriching the minds and hearts of their 
 fellow men. For the monks of Santa Katarina, there is no 
 world beyond the walls of their convent. 
 
 The catacomb is a curiously arched and vaulted building,, 
 of which the superior is the curator. There repose the bones 
 literally the bones, in a remarkable state of preservation, of the 
 successive tenants of this secluded habitation, who, having 
 monasticized during their brief day, glided off from life's 
 narrow verge, amidst the shadowy figments of a corrupted 
 creed. There is nothing offensive in the atmosphere of the
 
 154 CATACOMB SHRINE OF SANTA KATAKINA. 
 
 place, beyond the earthy smell of a charnel-house. No 
 sights of decomposition meet the eye; for, prior to being 
 admitted within this final resting place, the bodies of deceased 
 brethren are buried within the convent walls long enough for 
 the process of decomposition to take place ; after which they 
 are exhumed, and all the bones carefully collected. On one 
 side of the catacomb the skulls are packed up, layer upon 
 layer, in the most orderly manner, so that every monk may 
 see where his own will lie, should he be the next called into 
 an eternal state. On the opposite side, deposited with equal 
 care and regularity, are the other remains. I could not 
 venture to guess at the number whose bones are there 
 preserved ; but it was great, and occupied a very considerable 
 space on either side. We explored this chamber of death 
 with small wax tapers, brought by some of the monks. How 
 humbling the thought that all the earthly hopes, pursuits, 
 plans, projects, possessions, affections of the monk of Santa 
 Katarina should terminate in this secluded nook. Were it 
 better that his bones should be bleaching on the battle field, 
 or crumbling in the costly sepulchres of the great world, or 
 rotting amidst the wrecks of stranded navies in the caverns 
 of the vast ocean ? Perhaps not. Terminate where and how 
 it may life itself, in its temporary subjection to death, is a 
 humbling thing. 
 
 The shrine of Santa Katarina, wherein are said to be 
 deposited the skull and hands of the Saint the former 
 surmounted by a crown of gold the fingers of the latter 
 encircled by rings of great value is usually shown, with its 
 contents, to such devotees as may desire so edifying a privilege. 
 But being myself a member and minister of a branch of the 
 Church Catholic, which needs no toys and reproves the use 
 of them, I had no desire to examine these traces of saint- 
 veneration and worship, at the foot of that mountain where 
 God had said, " Thou shalt have none other gods before me." 
 
 The twenty-third of May was a memorable day. I 
 made the ascent of Mount Sinai. Whether I agree, or
 
 ASCENT OF MOUNT SINAI. 155 
 
 not, with, what has been urged by Lord Lindsay, Professor 
 Robinson, and others on the same side, as to the precise 
 pinnacle of the Sinaite group, from which the law was given 
 to Moses, I must frankly confess that it would be only a 
 choice of conjectures, or a balance of probabilities. That it 
 was indeed the Sinaite group which invited my footsteps, and 
 touched my heart by its august presence, there could be no 
 doubt. And here, I think, the remarks I made, as to the 
 locality of the burning bush, might well be repeated. Not a 
 particle was there of this wilderness of granite that had not 
 quaked at the mysterious and awful presence of Jehovah, 
 by which it was overspread; not one of its numberless 
 clefts and caverns, in which was not heard and echoed, the 
 voice of the trumpet which sounded long and waxed louder 
 and louder. And was there not enough of localization in 
 this certainty, without breaking the solemn feeling by 
 fruitless inquiries as to the precise spot on which "the Lord 
 came down upon Mount Sinai, on the top of the mount ?" 
 Tradition may urge one thing, reason and observation may 
 assert another ; while scripture withholds all but the general 
 certainty to which I have referred. I knew that this dread 
 wilderness was the stupendous theatre of one of the most 
 wondrous facts of the inspired record. I was content to rest 
 in this assurance. The whole region appeared scathed, as 
 if the breathings of the Almighty were yet upon it, and as if the 
 flame and smoke which veiled His awful presence had but 
 just passed away. 
 
 I cannot better recall to my own mind, or reflect on the minds 
 of others, the solemn state of feeling which was engendered by 
 the aspect of this august earthly presence-chamber of Jehovah, 
 than by quoting the narrative of Moses : 
 
 "And it came to pass on the third day, in the morning, 
 that there were thunders, and lightnings, and a thick cloud 
 upon the mount, and the voice of the trumpet exceeding loud; 
 so that all the people that was in the camp trembled. And 
 Moses brought forth the people out of the camp to meet with
 
 156 MOUNT STNAI. 
 
 God ; and they stood at the nether part of the mount. And 
 Mount Sinai was altogether on a smoke, because the Lord 
 descended upon it in fire : and the smoke thereof ascended as 
 the smoke of a furnace, and the whole mount quaked greatly. 
 And when the voice of the trumpet sounded long, and waxed 
 louder and louder, Moses spake, and God answered him by a 
 voice. And the Lord came down upon Mount Sinai, on the 
 top of the mount ; and the Lord called Moses up to the top 
 of the mount ; and Moses went up." ' 
 
 The voice of Jehovah sounds not now in the natural 
 
 ear of man ; but his law, with the divine record that perpetuates 
 it, is imperishable like himself; and in that law is the spiritual 
 presence of God, still overshadowing Mount Sinai, and its 
 
 sacred precincts. 
 
 #***** 
 
 At half-past four o'clock on the morning of the twenty-third 
 of May, we set out for the ascent of Mount Sinai, accompanied 
 by Hassenein and two of the younger monks, named Angelo 
 and Nicodemo, who kindly volunteered their company and 
 services. The morning was warm and close ; and, having had 
 a restless and almost sleepless night, I looked forward to the 
 arduous undertaking with some misgiving as to my strength ; 
 for though the good monks have, for ages past, done what lay 
 .in their power to make the ascent practicable at all times; 
 yet, after all, it is a fatiguing affair ; so much so, as to render 
 it necessary to make many a pause, and to claim the aid 
 of many a crag as a resting place by the way. By direction 
 of the kindly superior, we were attended by several Arabs 
 retainers at the convent bringing with them a few materials 
 for a morning repast during our excursion. 
 
 The ascent is commenced at a deep ravine, lying to the 
 south-west of the convent that is, at its back ; and the first 
 stage carried us over such part of Horeb as forms a kind 
 of breast-work, or foundation, from which Gebel Mousa the 
 
 1 Read the two chapters Exodus xix. and xx.
 
 MOUNT SINAI. 157 
 
 alleged peak of Mount Sinai springs. This part of the 
 journey is made tolerably easy, by means of large slabs or 
 blocks of granite, disposed in such order as to give a firm 
 footing ; but as many have been washed away from time to 
 time by winter torrents, some effort is required to keep the 
 road. In about half an hour, the ascent becomes still more 
 fatiguing and steep; and the way lies between impending 
 masses of vast magnitude, and through two arched gateways at 
 a short distance from each other, the first of which reminded 
 me of the " wicket gate " of John Bunyan whither Evangelist 
 had directed Christian, and from which he was swerving, 
 when "the hill (of legality) seemed so high, and also that side 
 of it that was next the way side did hang so much over, that 
 Christian was afraid to venture further, lest the hill should 
 fall on his head, wherefore, then he stood still, and he wot 
 not what to do." The latter of the arched ways introduced 
 us to a rather extensive plain, or platform, in which grows a 
 fine towering cypress, and near it is a roughly constructed 
 stone building, called the chapel of the convent, and another in 
 commemoration of the flight of Elijah to Horeb. From this 
 spot, the summit of Mount Sinai is visible ; and from thence 
 the direct ascent is made. It is toilsome and difficult. The 
 monks, who live upon traditions, point out the various objects 
 of interest, but make sad work in referring to scripture 
 names and narratives. When we were rather more than half 
 way up the peak of Sinai, they pointed out a spot in which 
 tradition says that Moses surveyed the conflict between 
 Joshua and Amelek ; and surely no place more probable or 
 picturesque could well be selected. After many a persevering 
 effort, the summit was gained, where we found a small chapel 
 of the Greek church, and a mosque but both in a ruinously 
 dilapidated state. 1 Proceeding to the very highest point, so as 
 
 1 Not far from the summit, is still distinctly visible, on the face of the solid 
 granite, the alleged miraculous print of the foot of Mahomet's camel. When 
 Hassenein saw it like a good Musselman, he kneeled down, passed the tips of his 
 fingers over the impression, and then over his face, with more of the air of a devotee 
 than I had ever noticed in him before. Gebel Mousa was of very small import 
 to him, except for the alleged record of the prophet's presence, which it bore.
 
 158 MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 to command the vast region of mountain scenery, my mind 
 was absorbed by the terrific grandeur of the picture. In the 
 words of an enterprising and intelligent traveller, 1 of an 
 earlier day, I may say " It would seem as if Arabia Petraea 
 had once been an ocean of lava, and that, while its waves 
 were running literally mountains high, it was commanded 
 suddenly to stand still." 
 
 I retired still gazing on the venerable and solemn scene ; 
 and read, with a humbled heart, the law as written by the 
 finger of God, upon the two tables of stone. 
 
 Lord write thy law on my heart with the finger of thy 
 spirit ! 
 
 It were idle to talk of feelings and emotions in reference 
 to a spot like this. 
 
 Before we prepared to descend, our friends Angelo and 
 Nicodemo led us to a charming clear well, near the summit ; 
 from which delicious water was drawn for immediate 
 refreshment, and for the purpose of furnishing us with coffee. 
 
 1 Sir J. Heninker. I have just met with Baumgarten's narrative of his ascent. 
 It is so striking, and to my mind affecting, that I must transcribe it. " About 
 sun rising, we came down the west side of Mount Horeb, by a very steep and 
 
 dangerous way, and came into a valley betwixt Horeb and Mount Sinai 
 
 At last, our ascent grew so difficult, that all our former toil and labour seemed 
 but sport to this. However, we did not give over, but imploring the divine 
 assistance, we used our utmost endeavour. At last, through untrodden ways, 
 through sharp and hanging rocks, through clefts and horrible deserts, pulling 
 and drawing one another, sometimes with our staves, sometimes with our belts, 
 and sometimes with our hands, by the assistance of Almighty God, we all 
 arrived at the top of the mountain. The top of Mount Sinai is scarce thirty 
 paces in compass : there we took a large prospect of the countries round about 
 us, and began to consider how much we had travelled by sea and by land, and 
 how much we had to travel, what hazards and dangers, and what various 
 changes of fortune, might probably befall us. While we were thus divided 
 between fear and hope, and possessed with a longing for our native country, it 
 is hard to imagine how much Mre were troubled."
 
 MOUNT SINAI. 159 
 
 A fire was soon kindled, and the coffee made ; and it was 
 a study for a painter as we all sat together, partaking of a 
 convent meal, brought in a rough-dressed goat skin, which 
 was spread on the rock for our table cloth. We occupied 
 one side Angelo and Nicomedo the other, and behind, a 
 little apart, sat Hassenein and the Bedaween. Our breakfast 
 consisted of very coarse brown bread, goat's-milk cheese, black 
 olives dressed in oil, delicious coffee, fresh water from the 
 spring, and a little flask of date spirit to qualify it. We did 
 ample justice to our rude repast, after so much toil; and 
 commenced an extremely difficult descent, by the deep rocky 
 valley of El Ledja, formed by Gebel Mousa, and Gebel 
 Katarina, which runs nearly parallel with the ravine in which 
 the convent is situate. While passing along El Ledja, the 
 monks pointed out to us a huge mass of granite, lying as 
 if hurled by some mighty hand from the masses above ; and 
 this they affirmed was the stone which, when smitten by the 
 rod of Moses, gushed forth with water. They bade us notice 
 several curious fissures, from which they say the water 
 miraculously issued. But, after all, I feel fully persuaded 
 that this is purely legendary. The ravine of El Ledja, 
 cannot, I think, be the vale of Rephidim. Moreover, there 
 is reason to believe that the present tradition had not its 
 commencement till about the fourteenth century. 
 
 The whole expedition occupied nearly eight hours, attended 
 by such an amount of fatigue and weariness, as rendered doubly 
 grateful the cool quiet of our convent cells. 
 
 We spent the next day within the walls of the convent, 
 and in the charming garden, resting, and preparing ourselves 
 for resuming our Desert route. I wrote letters to dear friends 
 in England, to be dispatched on our arrival at Akabah. How 
 delightful the assurance, that we could not only reach them 
 in prayer, but also transmit to them across the wide waste 
 of the great and terrible wilderness, the kindly affections 
 of our hearts.
 
 160 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 
 
 On the twenty-fifth of May, the day fixed at Cairo, for our 
 departure from Mount Sinai, Sheikh Suleiman was at his 
 post, and ready to resume the command of our caravan, and 
 to make the needful adjustments. But departure with a 
 caravan of Bedaween Arabs is not the work of a few minutes. 
 It is like fitting out a ship for sea ; especially when changes 
 of camels and escort have to be made, which is generally the 
 case, when travellers who have stayed at Mount Sinai go on 
 to Akabah. We had personally nothing to do with these 
 changes, but to endure the vexation of delay. The three 
 convent tribes or of the Tor, are all equally interested in 
 transporting travellers and merchandize ; and though they 
 are on the most friendly footing with each other, yet they 
 are all jealous of their rights ; and a few piastres lost for the 
 want of gaining them, is a matter of sore disquiet. The 
 consequence of the changes necessary to be made, previous to 
 our departure, was the loss of some " old familiar faces ;" and 
 I was obliged to give up my nice easy-paced camel, which I 
 had ridden from Cairo, for a heavier and far less agreeable beast. 
 Two hours and more were spent in the usual squabblings, 
 and in the loading, unloading, and reloading of camels. 
 The repose of the convent was invaded, till it seemed like 
 another Babel, though all this was, of course, transacted 
 without the walls. At eleven o'clock, all was ready for our 
 departure. We received kindly parting visits with a present 
 of bread and a conserve made of dates and almonds, from 
 the superior and several others of the fraternity drank a 
 farewell cup of coffee left behind us a suitable present in 
 money received and returned the usual symbols of courtesy, 
 when again, the rope and windlass were in requisition, while, 
 one by one, we were safely landed on terra firma; and, 
 bidding farewell to that quiet retreat, whose green repose 
 I shall never forget, we were soon on the backs of our 
 camels, whose heads were turned towards Wadey Sheikh, 
 north-eastward of the convent of Santa Katarina.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 THE DESERT; 
 
 FROM MOUNT SINAI TO AKABAH. 
 
 DEPARTURE FROM MOUNT SINAI ROUTE TOWARDS AKABAH THE MEZZENI 
 DESERT FEUD ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI WADEY EL AYUN ARAB 
 
 SUPERSTITION WADEY EL AYUN FOUNTAIN NIGHT -MARCH MURDER OF 
 
 SHEIKH SULEIMAN THE JOURNEY RESUMED EL HANEKH AKABAH 
 
 FUTURE MOVEMENTS ENCAMPMENT AT AKABAH SHEIKH HUSSEIN 
 
 FINAL ARRANGEMENTS PANIC TERMINATION OF SOJOURN AT AKABAH. 
 
 IN the mind of the traveller who has once really felt the 
 desolateness of a Desert-route, and experienced somewhat 
 of its privations, many an anxious and foreboding thought 
 mingles itself with his bright pictures of pleasurable anticipa- 
 tion, when setting out for a second stage, amidst scenes all 
 new, strange and venerable. And there is something, too, 
 in the manner of Desert life, which greatly stimulates the 
 awakened imagination. 
 
 I felt, while sojourning in the quiet convent of Mount 
 Sinai, that so far indeed had the good hand of God conducted 
 us, as surely and safely as if we had beheld him in the 
 pillar of the cloud and in the pillar of fire. And certainly, 
 there is nothing that can brace up the heart for difficulty and 
 danger, more than a simple perception of our filial relation 
 to a God of love. I trust this was the real state of my mind, 
 when again I found myself surrounded by the wild-eyed 
 children of the wilderness, equipped, armed, and ready 
 
 M
 
 162 DEPARTURE FROM MOUNT SINAI. 
 
 for the intended expedition to Akabah, the Ezion-geber 
 of scripture. 1 There was something in the very stir of prepa- 
 ration in the moaning and gurgling of camels, and in the 
 guttural volubility of Arab escorts which carried back my 
 mind, with vivid recollection, to the scenes we had passed ; 
 while far in the dim distance, imagination beheld the land 
 of promise, and the Holy City of our God, to which every 
 step was tending. 
 
 We had given orders to Sheikh Suleiman to conduct us 
 by the ordinary route, described by Lord Lindsay and many 
 others, which would have brought us soon to the shores of the 
 north-eastern arm of the Red Sea, by way of Wadey Sa'l 
 and Ayun Hudhera, to Ayiin en Nuweibia ; but, for reasons 
 which will by and by be apparent, he determined to take us 
 by a more circuitous way, of which we were quite ignorant, 
 until our disappointment at not reaching the Red Sea, led 
 to an enquiry, and moreover, to a confession on the part 
 of Suleiman, that he had disobeyed orders. The truth is, 
 he was aware of danger, and no doubt hoped by a little 
 management to avoid it. 
 
 On the day of our departure from Mount Sinai, our way 
 lay partly across the plain of El Raha ; when, striking off in 
 a north-easterly direction, we entered "Wadey Sheikh, which 
 winds round to the west, and joins Wadey Feiran, and from 
 which open off several passes over Debhet er Ramleh and 
 Gebel el Tih, through one of which Suleiman conducted us. 
 Soon after entering Wadey Sheikh, we noticed a Sheikh's 
 tomb, of some antiquity, from which the present name' of this 
 pass is derived; and as we started so late in the day, we 
 made but little way, and pitched our tents for the night at a 
 small distance from the tomb. A Sheikh's tomb is always an 
 object of superstitious veneration among the Arabs, as we had 
 several opportunities of observing. On arriving at one, it is 
 
 1 Numb, xxxiii. 35, 36. Deut. ii. 8. 1 Kings is. 26. 2 Chron. viii. 17. 

 
 ROUTE TOWARDS AKABAH. 163 
 
 a common thing for them to gather up handfuls of sand, 
 which they sprinkle upon the heads and into the ears of the 
 camels, as a charm against accident and danger. 
 
 At six o'clock on the morning of the twenty-sixth of May, 
 we recommenced our journey in good earnest; and, quitting 
 Wadey Sheikh, soon entered upon a dreary and desolate 
 waste, lifeless and herbless, where we encamped at noon; 
 and during the afternoon march, proceeded through a scene 
 of wild grandeur which deeply affected my mind. I could not 
 distinctly learn its Arab designation, nor can I find it clearly 
 laid down in the maps. It was not the vastness of mountain 
 heights that awed me; but it seemed as if the whole region 
 had once been in a state of volcanic fusion as if the 
 mountains had flowed down at the presence of Jehovah. 
 The surface was, in most parts, as white as drifted 
 snow. This was, by and by, exchanged for the most 
 remarkable rocky formation, in horizontal strata, having, 
 in some parts, the appearance of architectural remains 
 of gigantic proportions, somewhat like those we had 
 noticed in Wadey Nassb ; and in others, the rocks appeared 
 like Egyptian pyramids, worn down by age and storms. The 
 silence of this mountain solitude was very impressive. As 
 we glided along, it seemed like a city of the dead. While 
 encamped at noon, a sudden squall of wind nearly carried 
 away our tent. I managed, by a strong effort, to grasp it 
 firmly, till our sleeping Bedaween were aroused, who soon 
 reinstated it; but we were sadly annoyed by the clouds 
 of sand which swept around us. 
 
 At the early part of the day, Sheikh Suleiman fell sick. 
 He asked if I were a Hakim (a physician), and whether I 
 would give him medicine. I suspected he had been living 
 too freely, while having access to the kitchen-tent during the 
 past route, and also while we rested at the convent. When 
 by themselves, the Bedaween live upon the most spare diet ; 
 but are ready to partake very freely of European fare when 
 it comes in their way. I prescribed for him accordingly, 
 
 M2
 
 164 ROUTE TOWARDS AKABAH. 
 
 and bade him starve for two days. While halting at noon, 
 he became worse extremely feverish, and unfit, as I feared, 
 to proceed. But he insisted on mounting his camel, when 
 all was ready. The poor Bedaween seemed greatly to 
 appreciate my attention to their Sheikh greeted me with 
 hearty Bisalaams, and repeatedly called me "Hakim tayeeb" 
 (good physician.) 
 
 The Bedaween are amusing people. I was riding, to-day, 
 beside one of them, named Jumar, a nephew of Suleiman, 
 whose beard and mustaches were of rather luxuriant growth. 
 He made many signs about his beard, and pointed at mine ; 
 but all I could understand, was, an apparent intention to 
 remark, that Europeans wore beards as well as Bedaween. 
 However, I was mistaken ; for when Hassenein came up, I 
 made him interpret; and the secret of all the gesticulary 
 exercise, was, only that my Bedawee friend wished me to 
 bestow on him a pair of scissors, with which to trim his beard 
 into a politer shape. 
 
 During the following day, our route lay in the waste and 
 dreary region of Debhet er Ramleh. When getting the 
 caravan together, Suleiman presented himself with every 
 indication of improved health. He talked, shouted, and 
 ordered as volubly as ever; and, approaching me as I 
 walked out from the tent cried "Hakim tayeeb Hakim 
 tayeeb," and then thrust out his tongue, and made me feel 
 his pulse, to be sure of his amendment. Soon after we had 
 pitched for our noontide rest, in came Suleiman, bringing 
 with him his own jet-black coffee pot; and, with a hearty 
 air of cordiality, invited us to share its contents. He had 
 often partaken of the chibouk and coffee on our invitation ; 
 but now, he was, no doubt, anxious to show some token 
 of thankfulness for my sympathy and medical success. 
 
 We encamped at noon, just within the borders of the 
 territory of the Mezzeni a powerful tribe, between whom 
 and those of the peninsula of Sinai, was a feud of several
 
 THE MEZZENI DESERT FEUD. 165 
 
 years standing, arising out of a long preferred claim of the 
 former, to be the escort of travellers to Akabah (as the route lies 
 through their country), but which had been, time out of mind, 
 monopolized by the Sinaite tribes. Matters had proceeded 
 so far, that war between the tribes had been for some time 
 declared ; and the Mezzeni were as determined to assert, as 
 the Sinaite tribes to resist, by force of arms, the offensive 
 claim. A similar spirit is now manifesting itself throughout 
 the Desert, whenever tribes have reason to believe they are 
 numerically strong enough to support their claims. The effect 
 of this, as it spreads, will tend to make the Desert journey 
 vexatious and trying, if not personally dangerous. 
 
 When making our bargain at Cairo with Suleiman, for 
 safe conduct to Akabah, we were not aware of the existence 
 of any feud that could at all interfere with our movements ; 
 nor, indeed, did we know of any such thing, till we were 
 encamped, when Hassenein told us that Suleiman was 
 apprehending an attack from the Mezzeni, through whose 
 territory we were then about to pass. We looked upon this, 
 at first, as one of the tricks resorted to by the Bedaween to 
 enhance the value of their services, so as to lay claim to a 
 larger hacksheech, at the end of the journey. Certainly, 
 Suleiman appeared anxious and ill at ease; and far more 
 silent and thoughtful than I had ever seen him before. But 
 this I ascribed more to the brief indisposition he had suffered, 
 and to the rather strong remedies I had applied, than to any 
 other cause. 
 
 When Hassenein gave us the information above referred 
 to, I recollected that during the afternoon march of the 
 preceding day, a strange Arab, who seemed to spring out of the 
 earth as it were, suddenly joined our caravan, and was in 
 earnest conversation with Suleiman, apart ; and I also recalled 
 to mind the fact, that the same Arab (who had the appearance 
 and bearing of a Sheikh) had joined us when we commenced 
 our morning march to-day, and had left us I knew not where 
 or when. Hassenein discovered that this man really was a
 
 1G6 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 
 
 Sheikh of the Mczzeni ; and when we knew this to be the 
 case, I felt there might be something in the report which had 
 reached us ; and that care and vigilance would be needful. 
 I dwell the more minutely on these matters ; for the narrative 
 on which I am now entering, is one of painful and distressing, 
 though grateful, recollection. 
 
 When the caravan had been in motion, this afternoon, for 
 rather more than an hour and a half, in an extremely desolate 
 region, where one could hardly have expected to meet a 
 human being except travellers like ourselves, we observed a 
 little stir and agitation among our people, accompanied by 
 low and repressed observations to each other. Every man 
 unslung his matchlock gun, and Suleiman deliberately primed 
 his, from a little powder-flask slung at his belt. I caught his 
 eye at the moment. There was a silent air of determination 
 expressed in it, which induced something like a persuasion 
 in my mind, that we might, perhaps, meet with annoyance 
 from the Mezzeni, into whose territory we had considerably 
 advanced. 
 
 It was not long before three of our party went forward on 
 foot, at a rapid pace, and quickly turned into a defile, when 
 we lost sight of them for a time. There was very evident 
 anxiety betrayed by those who remained behind. We all 
 made a pause loaded our pistols and girded on our sabres, 
 that we might appear fully prepared for what was to happen. 
 At this moment, Suleiman earnestly begged us to remain 
 behind with the camels, while he and the rest would go 
 forward to meet a small party of the Mezzeni, who were then 
 just in sight, and advancing upon us. We said No: we 
 had no fears ; and that if defence were necessary we would 
 help to defend ourselves. 
 
 We moved on. Contrary to our expectations, Suleiman 
 fell back almost to the rear of the caravan ; and we fancied he 
 was disposed to "shew a white feather." I confess I began to 
 limit my confidence in him, when I saw this movement. We
 
 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 167 
 
 had not proceeded far, before two of the Mezzeni advanced, 
 in company with our three Arabs, who had left us a little 
 while before. They salaamed us peaceably enough; and 
 after a short conference, in which no bitterness was betrayed, 
 the Mezzeni retired quietly up one of the mountain sides, as 
 if all had been adjusted; but Hassenein, who had obtained 
 full information, told us that a larger party of the enemy 
 were to give us a meeting at a fountain, about two hours 
 distant, where we were to pitch for the night ; and that there 
 the question at issue was to be adjusted, if possible. 
 
 In the conference which had already taken place, the 
 Mezzeni claimed their right to conduct us to Akabah, and to 
 supply the requisite camels, at a price to be then and there 
 agreed on. They also insisted on our dismissing Suleiman, and 
 the rest of our escort ; promising, that if we would put ourselves 
 at once under their care, they would fight out the question 
 with Suleiman. On our part, Hassenein said, we had made, at 
 Cairo, our bargain with Suleiman for safe escort, by his tribe, 
 to Akabah, and that we intended to hold by that bargain; but 
 that they and Suleiman might come to what understanding 
 they pleased, so that we were conducted safely. 
 
 There was manifest uneasiness about Suleiman; and he 
 seemed desirous of pressing onwards, instead of halting at the 
 place agreed on. This looked like evasion, and was disagreeable 
 to us. We insisted on halting, as proposed ; and from various 
 parts of the Desert, we saw first one, then another of the 
 Mezzeni, coming slowly down towards the spot, till a con- 
 siderable group of them were seated at a distance of five or 
 six hundred yards from our place of encampment, where they 
 kindled their fires ; but neither conference nor interruption 
 occurred. We, however, thought it good to be on the watch 
 against any attack, and lay down partly undressed. No 
 disturbance broke in upon the quietude of the night. 
 
 in 
 
 We rose next morning at half-past four, and were engaged 
 the usual preparations for resuming our march, while at
 
 168 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 
 
 a distance sat the enemy in a circle, round their morning fire, 
 apparently holding a council of war ; and near at hand was a 
 supply of their camels, which had been brought down during 
 the night. Suleiman seemed personally disposed to stand aloof. 
 Several of our Arabs went to the Mezzeni, and returned 
 without any satisfactory result. At length Suleiman, accom- 
 panied by Hassenein, went forward, when a loud and stormy 
 conversation took place no uncommon thing, as an appendage 
 to an Arab negociation. A grave ground of offence, however, 
 had been given by one of the Mezzeni seizing the sabre and gun 
 of one of our party a heavy loss for a Bedawee Arab. After 
 an hour spent in the noisiest declamation, Hassenein returned, 
 stating that the question had at length been adjusted by a 
 compromise ; and that Suleiman had agreed to. take and pay 
 for five of the enemy's camels, and to dismiss as many of those 
 which had brought us from Cairo. We of course protested 
 against having any additional camels forced upon us, either 
 by Suleiman or the Mezzeni ; and gave notice to the former 
 that we should not, on settling accounts at Akabah, allow 
 of any alteration in the terms of our contract made with him 
 at Cairo. 
 
 At half-past six we were all loaded ; but I was far from 
 being favourably impressed by the phisiognomy and bearing 
 of the five Mezzeni to whom the new camels belonged, and 
 who were to become part of our escort. I was sorry, 
 moreover, to lose any of our party who had accompanied 
 us so far. But it was not to be avoided. In about three 
 hours we reached the entrance of Wadey el Ayun (the 
 valley of the fountain), after having passed through a less 
 dreary route than we had traversed the day before enlivened 
 with some few traces of vegetation, tamarisk trees, nackels, 
 and the species of acacia from which the gum-arabic is procured. 
 In the midst of these was a continual sound, as if proceeding 
 from thousands of chirping grasshoppers. Multitudes of small 
 lizards, called by the Arabs Serebani, were to be seen here, 
 as well as in many other parts of the Desert, shooting across 
 the way beneath the feet of the camels.
 
 WADEY EL AYUN. 169 
 
 Near the mouth of Wadey el Ayun, and standing on a 
 slight rocky elevation, is a single palm tree, of no very 
 considerable size, yet visible at a great distance. Around it are 
 sedges, rushes and such like succulent plants, giving an 
 indication that water is not far away. We pressed onwards with 
 increased speed ; and the servants were in advance, in order 
 to secure a supply of fresh water for our use, before it should 
 be soiled by watering the camels. The arrival at a fountain 
 is always a notable event in Desert life. I have often recalled 
 the delight with which I reached that fountain, and drank of its 
 refreshing stream. As soon as we had provided for ourselves, 
 we led the camels down. And there, too, were the Arabs lying 
 flat at the brink of the water, drinking among the camels, like 
 camels. Wadey el Ayun is a long unbroken pass, of many 
 miles extent, along which, frequent small streams wind 
 their quiet way, garnished in the most lovely manner by 
 tamarisk bushes and palm clumps, on all sides. Here indeed 
 the wilderness seemed to put off its savage grin and to smile 
 in verdant gentleness ; though, on either side of this narrow 
 pass, the rocks are bold, lofty, and most picturesque. The 
 pass itself is evidently the deep bed of a vast mountain torrent, 
 winding in the most fantastic manner, and presenting a new 
 and charming picture at every turn. The slightest sound 
 awakened a thousand echoes ; and there was an air of wildness 
 about the whole party, occasioned by the loud and harsh 
 voices of our joyous Bedaween calling forth replies, in every 
 variety of tone, from the surrounding rocks and caverns far 
 and near. 
 
 One of our young men had a narrow escape from serious 
 danger, in this remarkable, and in some parts difficult, pass. 
 We were pursuing our course over a shelving rock. 
 He was riding next in advance of me. His camel slipped 
 and fell on its side, and in an instant dashed him on the rock. 
 This was the only false step I ever noticed in a camel during 
 the whole journey. I was greatly alarmed, and called loudly 
 to him ; but before I could conveniently halt, so as to offer 
 assistance, he sprang upon his legs shouting out, " Tayeeb >
 
 170 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 
 
 tayeeb, Khowaga" (all right, Sir), and in half a minute 
 more, he and his camel were again in due marching order. 
 It was quite wonderful. Neither of them seemed in the 
 least degree discomposed or hurt. The sun bore down upon 
 us with intense heat, so that by ten o'clock we were glad to 
 pitch our tents under the shade of a wide-spreading tamarisk 
 tree, of great age, which had doubtless been the temporary 
 home of many a traveller, and many a Bedawee party, as 
 indicated by the remaining ashes of bivouac fires. There 
 was a tempestuous appearance in the atmosphere ; and by and 
 by, a smart shower of rain fell, the drops of which evaporated 
 almost as fast as they descended, from the cloth of the tents. 
 While writing in my tent, on this and many other occasions, 
 the ink actually dried in my pen at almost every word. 
 
 At half-past three we resumed our journey; but there 
 was plainly something wrong between Sheikh Suleiman and 
 the Mezzeni, who had recently joined the caravan; and 
 suddenly their Sheikh reappeared amongst us but from 
 whence he came I could not guess. He was in earnest 
 conversation with the men of his tribe; but held little 
 intercourse with Suleiman. He was a cold, subtle, snakey 
 looking fellow; and always created an uneasy sensation in 
 my mind, when I happened to be near him ; though I confess 
 that towards us, as travellers, his bearing was inoffensive, 
 and even courteous. His presence always seemed to bode 
 mischief, and contrivance for the purpose of mischief. I was 
 not deceived in him, as will appear by and by. I enquired 
 what was the cause of disquiet in the caravan, and learnt that 
 our new escort were, after all, unwilling to go to Akabah ; for 
 on a former occasion, two of their tribe got bastinadoed 
 by the governor there for certain Desert pranks, and they 
 thought it quite possible they might fall in for a share of the 
 like discipline; and besides, they wanted to drive a fresh 
 bargain for more money. We had nothing to do with this ; 
 but certainly I had it in my mind to get the guilty one 
 bastinadoed for having stolen the sabre and gun of our party ; 
 and I had plainly said as much ; which perhaps reached their
 
 ADVENTURE 'WITH THE MEZZENI. 171 
 
 ears, and they supposed it possible that they might all be 
 deemed guilty. Whether this was the case, I know not; 
 but certain it is, they suddenly pulled up, and refused to 
 proceed; and while they and their Sheikh were gathered 
 together squatting on the sand a very unpeaceful and 
 discontented-looking group, we passed on, having retained 
 the Arabs and their camels, who had been, in effect, dismissed 
 when the Mezzeni joined us. I felt persuaded, however, 
 that this must lead to some further adventure. 
 
 Suleiman's disquietude was visibly increased; and he 
 strongly urged us to proceed with the utmost speed 
 hinting a desire that we should make a forced march all 
 night, so as fairly to outstrip the enemy; but as we felt 
 persuaded that his cupidity stood in the way of adjustment 
 and was one of the causes of the annoyance, we replied 
 we had no fear whatever ; yet that if he thought himself in 
 peril, we would do what we could to diminish his anxiety, 
 but were not disposed to march all night. We proceeded at 
 full camel pace for upwards of two hours, still in the wild 
 pass of Wadey el Ayun, while the tempest was breaking 
 upon us rendered more magnificent by the rocky scenery, 
 over which the dense clouds floated and burst with heavy 
 reverberations of thunder. The tempest soon spent itself, 
 and left the atmosphere calm and serene. 
 
 On making an abrupt turn, we noticed a sudden pause 
 and embarrassment among the leaders of the caravan; and, 
 glancing off to the right, saw a large company of the 
 Mezzeni rushing down the rugged side of a steep declivity, 
 with wild clamour and vehement gesticulation. We drew 
 up at once, and assumed an attitude of defence, while some 
 of our escort advanced and held a noisy parley with them. 
 We found they were those we had left behind, with a 
 considerable addition; and that they had made a short cut 
 across the mountains, on foot, in the expectation of thus 
 meeting us in the pass below. Though at first they were 
 prepared to fire upon us, the conference seemed to have
 
 172 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 
 
 the effect of suspending hostilities ; for they retired up the 
 mountain, and suffered us to pass on unmolested. But still, 
 Suleiman was ill at ease. The sun went down upon us 
 gloomily, and we continued our star-lit way, over many a 
 rugged mile, trusting all to the instinct of our camels, till 
 about nine o'clock ; when, wearied and somewhat excited by 
 the stirring events of the day, so novel to men of peaceful 
 habits like ourselves, we pitched again for the night, setting a 
 watch to guard against surprise by our wily enemies. I could 
 not but feel my mind and imagination much acted upon by 
 the kind of mystery which hung over their movements ; and 
 this was rendered more intense by the circumstance of every 
 conference among our own party, as well as between them 
 and the Mez/eni, being carried on in a language of which we 
 were ignorant, except a few words and phrases of common 
 usage. I passed a wakeful night listening to the myriads 
 of grasshoppers chanting in full chorus till daybreak. 
 
 The next day was the Christian's day of rest. We had, 
 on the preceding night, given directions to halt during 
 the sabbath hours. Suleiman was desirous of proceeding, 
 but he obeyed us. It was a charming spot in which we 
 encamped an amphitheatre of granite, scattered over with 
 tamarisk trees of some magnitude, and having various outlets 
 into opposite parts of the Desert. It was a sweet solitude, in 
 which to enjoy the liturgy of our venerable Church, and to 
 think of our beloved flocks assembled in the house of prayer. 
 The 140th Psalm was among those appointed for the morning 
 service. We felt and remarked upon its suitableness for 
 imparting serenity and comfort amidst the hostile movements 
 of the tribes in whose territory we were encamped. 
 
 Some of our Bedaween discovered there were flocks 
 near at hand. We gave orders for the purchase of a 
 goat, as a present to our party. It was soon procured, 
 dressed, and eaten ; and, long before we imagined our orders 
 had been obeyed, they were slumbering after their morning 
 meal. We expressed our surprise to Hassenein. "Oh,"
 
 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 173 
 
 said he "Bedaween never leave any thing for tomorrow 
 eat 'em up all at once." 
 
 From the hour of noon, a continued agitation was kept up 
 in the encampment by the frequent arrival of strange Arabs, 
 with whom Suleiman and the rest held sometimes loud and 
 angry, and at other times repressed and subdued conversations. 
 It was, doubtless, upon the old theme. It seemed as if the 
 strife between the tribes was gathering up to a storm that 
 must break. Suddenly the Sheikh of the Mezzeni, who had 
 several times been amongst us, again made his appearance. 
 He was immediately engaged in earnest conference with 
 Suleiman. There was a doggedness in his manner which 
 boded no good. By and by a message was brought to us 
 from him, inquiring whether we would pay a certain sum, on 
 condition that he should peaceably join our caravan, and give 
 us safe conduct through his territory. Believing this to be one 
 of Suleiman's contrivances, to save his own pocket, and alter 
 the terms of our contract ; and feeling that if we submitted 
 to such a thing, future travellers might suifer imposition as 
 the consequence, we said "No! we would give nothing. 
 We had made our bargain with Suleiman, and intended 
 to abide by it." Here the matter ended, so far as we were 
 concerned; but as the Sheikh of the Mezzeni (Sheikh 
 Furriqh, as he was named) was just retiring towards one 
 of the mountain passes, Hassenein, who was fond of burning 
 gunpowder, fired off several pistols in quick succession, for 
 the purpose of cleaning and putting them in good order. 
 Furriqh returned evidently angry, as if the fire arms had 
 been discharged as a note of defiance. Another strange Arab 
 arrived at the same time, and communicated something to him 
 in a whisper ; when, without uttering another word to any 
 of our party, Furriqh left the encampment, with an expression 
 of determination in his manner which I shall never forget. From 
 that moment I believed danger to be at hand ; but yet I was 
 calmly assured that we had an arm stronger than man's about 
 us. Yet it was an uneasy position, in a strange land among 
 strangers, who have no law but that of the sword.
 
 174 ARAB SUPERSTITION. 
 
 At half-past three, Suleiman, with some degree of agitation, 
 earnestly begged us to prepare to march ; and soon began 
 plucking up the tent pins, crying " Yellah yellah," (make 
 haste), to his followers. We were soon ready and mounted, 
 and were surprised to see a cross, smeared with some red colour, 
 on the necks and haunches of the camels. We inquired 
 what it meant. It was the blood of the goat which had been 
 that day given to the Bedaween. What was the intention 
 of the sign so made in blood ? We could get no satisfactory 
 answer; but only a notion of some superstition, like that 
 of sprinkling the dust from a Sheikh's tomb on the heads 
 of the camels. 1 
 
 It was during this march that we discovered Suleiman's 
 disobedience, in taking us by a way contrary to that we had 
 desired. We remonstrated with him, and demanded the 
 reason. He then freely confessed he had been all along 
 afraid to go by the usual route, on account of the determined 
 state of the Mezzeni, for that would have led him too near 
 their general encampment. He had hoped, by taking the 
 longer and more unusual route, to elude them altogether. 
 But events now proved how sadly he had been mistaken. 
 
 We had therefore nothing to do, but to make our best 
 speed. We pressed onwards through one of the noblest 
 mountain passes that was ever seen ; and it was a fine picture 
 to see our caravan winding its way upwards and downwards 
 over dreary and difficult ways, fit only for the desert-practised 
 foot of the camel. We were a wild-looking set. 
 
 1 I have met with a notice of this custom, in Dr. Robinson's recent work, 
 vol. i., p. 269. "Our Arabs bought of their visitors (from the Hafwat tribe), 
 a kid, which they killed as a redemption (Arabic, Fedu), in order, as they said, 
 that its death might redeem their camels from death, and also as a sacrifice for 
 the prosperity of our journey. With the blood they smeared crosses upon the 
 necks of their camels, and on other parts of their bodies. Such sacrifices 
 are frequent among them. This mark of the cross we supposed they had 
 probably imitated from their neighbours, the Monks of Sinai ; or perhaps they 
 made it as one of the simplest marks."
 
 WADEY EL AYUN FOUNTAIN. 175 
 
 We had entertained fears of falling short of water before 
 reaching Akabah ; and, moreover, such water as we had with 
 us was becoming disagreeable and unwholesome. Imagine 
 our delight, when Suleiman, who was somewhat in advance, 
 looked up joyfully to the mountain heights on the right, 
 crying at the top of his stentorian voice, " Moyia, moyia 
 tayeeb" (good water). On reaching the bold rock, which 
 seemed to have been cleft by a hand of mercy and goodness, 
 we found a deep fissure, down which there coursed a small 
 stream, depositing in several natural cisterns formed on the 
 ledges of the rock, clean, sweet, delicious water. In an 
 instant we were all dismounted, and busied equally in 
 quenching our thirst, watering the camels, and replenishing 
 the water skins for the rest of the journey. I have drunk the 
 wines of France, of Italy, and of the Rhine, and thought them 
 delicious ; but there was something beyond them all in this 
 precious water of El Ayun. 
 
 To the very latest day of my existence, I think I shall 
 remember the march we made after quitting these sweet 
 waters. 
 
 In evident anxiety, Suleiman proposed two things ; first, that 
 we should encamp, in about an hour, at an unusual spot, that 
 the enemy who were pursuing us might be deceived, and get 
 far ahead of us ; or, secondly, that we should proceed onwards 
 throughout the night at our best speed, till nine o'clock on 
 the following morning. We declined the former, because we 
 were anxious to reach Akabah as speedily as possible ; and as 
 to the latter, we expressed our willingness to go as far and as 
 long as we should be able. " Tayeeb, tayeeb," said he and we 
 moved on. The sun soon set upon us, and the quickly coming 
 darkness spread its mantle, while the vast mountain-masses 
 were piled up about us. From half-past three till a few minutes 
 before twelve at night, we pressed forwards ; and not one false 
 step did our poor weary camels make over that fearfully difficult 
 mountain-pass. By degrees all conversation among the Arabs 
 dropped off, as if slumber rested on all spirits: but there
 
 176 NIGHT MARCH. 
 
 really was a sad wakefulness in the silence which prevailed. 
 I believe -we were all possessed with a belief that we should 
 be attacked by some party of the Mezzeni, lying in wait for 
 us; and we held ourselves prepared. If a word dropped 
 from any one, Suleiman ordered silence, as if there should 
 be nothing but the tramp of the camels to give intimation 
 of our approach ; and as if he desired to catch any distant 
 sound of voices. Poor fellow ! I have reason now to think 
 that he was bowed down with apprehension. The Mezzeni 
 were up, and they were many we were but few, and could 
 have no reinforcement. The greater part of our night's march 
 was through Wadey Wetir ; and in the dim shadowy light 
 which the stars and rising moon afforded, the rocks on either 
 side presented the idea of a massive city, where dome and tower 
 and gigantic colonnade strove for pre-eminence. To my own 
 mind, the effect of the scene, and of the occasion, was almost 
 overpowering. My recollection of this night's journey, now 
 while I am writing, is more like that of a feverish dream than 
 a transaction of real life. By the mercy of God, we came in 
 perfect safety to the end of Wadey Wetir, and found ourselves 
 at length on an extensive plain, with the Red Sea, or gulph 
 of Akabah, on our right, and the little peninsula of Nuweibia, 
 the principal encampment of the Mezzeni, at a good distance 
 behind us. Here Suleiman was content that we should 
 encamp for the night, taking up such a position as might best 
 conceal the light of our fires. We pitched our tents in silence 
 and in safety ; and the newly risen moon shed her pale lustre 
 on the smooth waters of the Red Sea. The sense of repose 
 which we were thus permitted to enjoy, after such a march, 
 was indescribable. I slept soundly as if all apprehension 
 of danger was past. 
 
 I was awakened for a few minutes, as early as three o'clock 
 on the following morning, by the sound of many voices in 
 loud and earnest conversation, amongst which I recognized 
 that of Sheikh Suleiman ; but as noisy conversations, at such 
 early hours, are by no means uncommon with these restless 
 spirits of the wilderness, I gave no heed to it, and composed
 
 MURDER OF SHEIKH SULEIMAN. 177 
 
 myself for sleep again, intending to rise by about half after 
 four, in order to get a dip in the Red Sea, before resuming 
 the march; and this intention I fulfilled; but just while 
 throAving on the few clothes I had taken with me, I heard 
 suddenly a loud strife of many tongues bursting forth, 
 not in our encampment, but in a small copse or grove 
 of palm trees, about two hundred yards distant. At once 
 the thought rushed upon my mind, that the Mezzeni had 
 overtaken us, and were meditating an attack, now that we 
 were so near the place of their main encampment. This 
 was directly confirmed by the sound of a gun-shot in the 
 palm-grove, which was soon followed up by a second. I ran 
 up towards the encampment as rapidly as possible; and just 
 as I reached it, another shot rang awfully upon my ear. I 
 found our party in a state of the greatest consternation, and 
 gathered closely together, gazing wildly towards the grove. 
 The first thing I learnt, was the harrowing fact, that poor 
 Suleiman had just been murdered by the Mezzeni ! It 
 was an astounding announcement. To what would this 
 desperate blow lead here, in the Desert? The prospect 
 of further bloodshed was terrible. It would have been 
 insupportable, but for the influence of that inward calmness 
 which is the privilege of the children of God. We were 
 braced up for the worst, and stood gazing upon the scene, 
 in full expectation that out of a deep and deadly spirit 
 of revenge, we should be immediately overpowered by the 
 enemy, and held entirely at their mercy as any shew 
 of defence against so many as had now come down upon us, 
 would have been utterly futile, and might have led to the 
 destruction of us all. How wild and desolate this awful 
 theatre of death appeared, while, with the sound of gun-shots 
 still vibrating in our ears, we thought of Suleiman writhing 
 in his death-throes, and anxiously watched the movements 
 of the murderers. We were motionless almost breathless. 
 Each nm among us gazed silently upon his fellow. Our 
 suspense was not of great duration, but long enough to get the 
 heart secretly lifted up in communion with a God of mercy. 
 And there was sweet peacefulness in that brief exercise. 
 
 N
 
 178 SHEIKH SULEIMAN. 
 
 My worst fears were groundless. The hearts of all 
 
 men are in God's hands. Our helplessness must have been a 
 powerful matter of temptation to the blood-stained men, over 
 whom the departed soul of Suleiman was hovering. But God 
 restrained them. 
 
 Having slaughtered their victim, the Mezzeni (of whom 
 about forty were counted), quietly marched back towards 
 Nuweibia, without exchanging even a word with us ; leaving 
 behind them the corpse of poor Suleiman a sad memorial 
 of their malignant vengeance ; while several others of their 
 tribe, who had been lying in ambush beyond the scene 
 of terror, came forth from their hiding places, and joined 
 their retreating comrades. 
 
 My heart almost sickens at the recollection of this dreadful 
 transaction, while referring to the notes made on the spot, and 
 compiling from them the particulars of this sad page. 
 
 As soon as the enemy had fairly departed, I took Hassenein 
 with me, and advanced carefully towards the copse of palm 
 trees, where I found the mangled body of poor Suleiman quite 
 dead, but with the agony of the death-pang still visible on 
 his sunburnt and swarthy features. It was a terrible sight, 
 thus to behold the leader and confidential companion of our 
 wild route, lying as the clods of the valley, and saturated 
 with his own life-blood. And how, in a Christian's heart, 
 was the sense of the sad reality heightened, by knowing that 
 the poor sufferer was a follower of the false prophet a 
 Mahommedan ignorant of Him who was "delivered for our 
 offences, and raised again for our justification." I have seen 
 death in many forms ; but I never beheld it with so dread an 
 aspect as it here assumed. 
 
 I was more than half inclined to withhold the minute 
 particulars of the dark tragedy, when arriving at this part 
 of my narrative ; but they now fasten themselves upon my 
 mind, and I feel constrained to leave them on record.
 
 SHEIKH SULEIMAN. 179 
 
 Suleiman had received three balls through his body, and four 
 sabre-gashes on his head, which was also nearly severed from 
 the trunk ; and his right arm, which had been evidently raised 
 in an attempt at warding off a blow, was all but divided 
 near the wrist. We returned to the encampment, where our 
 Arabs were sitting together, still terrified. At length, a few 
 of them who volunteered their aid, went and washed the 
 body wrapped it in an unfolded turban, and prepared it for 
 immediate interment. They hastily formed a resting place, 
 about a mile upwards, towards the hills which skirted the 
 plain in which we were encamped, by raising four walls of 
 large loose stones. Having made all ready, they brought up 
 the remains of their leader, laid across the back of his camel, 
 and, with deep emotion, deposited them in their final abode, 
 arching it over with large masses of stone, and quitting it 
 with what appeared to me like deep expressions of vengeance 
 against the tribe, on which lay the guilt of his murder. 
 
 I turned away from the tomb with a heavy heart .... 
 
 Was my way to the Holy City of my God to be tracked with 
 blood? 
 
 On making a careful inquiry into the particulars immediately 
 connected with this sad catastrophe, I collected the following : 
 It appeared that while we were resting on the previous day at 
 Wadey el Ayiin, the Mezzeni came down in order to make 
 a final effort at supporting, without bloodshed, their claim 
 to conduct travellers through their territory to Akabah. 
 Sheikh Furriqh was of the number, as I have already stated. 
 When he was about to retire, after an unsuccessful attempt, 
 an Arab of his tribe came and secretly informed him that his 
 (Furriqh's) nephew had been shot on the previous day by 
 one of Suleiman's tribe, in reference to the very question then 
 pending. On receiving this information, Furriqh at once 
 broke off all negociation, and quitted the encampment. It is 
 believed that Suleiman never knew the fact which had been 
 communicated to Furriqh ; but news was brought to him 
 that the Mezzeni intended to pursue us with an increased
 
 180 SHEIKH SULEIMAN. 
 
 force ; and this quite accounts for all the anxiety and timidity 
 which he evinced during the afternoon and evening preceding 
 his death. It appears that the Mezzeni, bent on accomplishing 
 their purpose, gathered together their force, and, following us 
 at dromedary speed, arrived at the encampment as early as 
 two o'clock in the morning that a deputation from, them 
 came to Suleiman, while some of the rest remained in 
 the palm-grove, and others went in advance, and formed 
 ambuscades that Sheikh Furriqh was one of the deputation 
 that Suleiman shewed them the usual hospitality of breaking 
 bread with them that the conference ended without any 
 adjustment of the matter in dispute that after the deputation 
 had retired to the copse, two Arabs of a neutral tribe, 
 who had come with us from Mount Sinai, went to the 
 Mezzeni in order to mediate, but were unsuccessful that 
 while they remained, Suleiman was sent for, and that having 
 broken bread with the Mezzeni, he had a right to expect that 
 his life would be held sacred that Suleiman had scarcely 
 reached the adverse party, when Sheikh Furriqh said " We 
 do not care about the money, but there is blood between 
 us ;" that instantly one of the Mezzeni shot him through the 
 body, and that Furriqh cut him down with his sabre, while two 
 other shots which were fired took effect upon him. My 
 recollection of Furriqh, from the first moment that he appeared 
 in our caravan, is such as to convince me that he would 
 readily commit such an act as this so subtle so cruel so 
 cowardly without one feeling of remorse or misgiving. 
 
 Our future movements towards Akabah now became 
 matter of anxious consideration. We were still in the 
 enemy's land ; but we had no leader. Jumar Sheikh 
 Suleiman's nephew, was next in weight and authority. We 
 told him we must now rely on him for safe convoy. He 
 replied he dared not stay, but must proceed alone at full 
 speed to Akabah. He feared lest, as a relative of Suleiman, 
 he should be singled out as the object of some further 
 vengeance. He kissed our hands mounted the dead Sheikh's 
 powerful camel, and soon was out of sight. We felt that
 
 THE JOURNEY RESUMED. 181 
 
 now the management of the caravan must be in our own hands. 
 Our terrified Bedaween seemed quite helpless ; and I almost 
 feared they would refuse to proceed. We, however, bade 
 Hassenein speak to them in the most determined manner, 
 and at length they expressed their willingness to resume the 
 march. It was then late in the morning for getting in 
 motion ; but we felt the painfulness and anxiety of delay in 
 such a spot; so helping them to collect and drive together 
 the camels, some of which had strayed to a distance, we got 
 all loaded between eight and nine o'clock, and were again on 
 our way, taking into our service a feeble old Sheikh, of a 
 friendly tribe, through whose territory we had yet to pass, 
 and who had joined Suleiman on the previous day at Wadey 
 el Ayun, and accompanied us thus far. 
 
 It was with heavy hearts that we resumed our march, along 
 the shores of the Red Sea, which presented but little variety 
 of aspect to arrest our minds, and divert them from the sad 
 thoughts that were dwelling within. Often and often I glanced 
 backwards, and around, to see that we were not pursued by 
 our late assailants, or any others of their tribe. We passed 
 on in safety, and made a short halt at noon ; but soon were 
 again mounted, in order to encamp for the night, if possible, 
 beyond the bounds of the enemy's territory. We proceeded 
 for nearly seven hours almost in silence. It was a dreary 
 time. The thick darkness overtook us, but was soon dispelled 
 by the bright dominion of the stars, which in this latitude 
 are peculiarly lustrous. The moon had not risen. At about 
 eight o'clock, we saw ahead of us, at some distance, a light, 
 as of a bivouac fire. It struck a new panic in the hearts 
 of our poor affrighted Bedaween ; and I confess I was rather 
 ill at ease ; for the events of this and the preceding days 
 had made my mind exceedingly sensitive. I believe it was 
 supposed by some of our party, that the light before us was 
 from the fires of some of the Mezzeni, who, as they imagined, 
 were in wait near their borders, to strike a final blow. It 
 certainly seemed a probable supposition. But we slowly 
 continued our route, and at last lost sight of the light ; and,
 
 182 EL HANEKH. 
 
 passing by the spot at which we thought it had appeared, 
 pitched our tents, and passed the night in safety giving 
 thanks for the mercies we had experienced. 
 
 At six o'clock on the following morning we were again 
 in motion, still coasting along the Red Sea, till we came to a 
 vast promontory, which seemed to forbid any further advance 
 in a direct line ; while on our left, turning off in a north- 
 westerly direction, was a defile leading to the savage and 
 extremely difficult pass of El Ilanekh, which occupied all the 
 time till our noontide rest. It is one of those wild scenes 
 of which words can give no idea. It looks as if the footsteps 
 of man had never invaded its fastnesses ; and in some places 
 is so rugged and steep, that we were glad to dismount, and 
 both climb and descend with wary heedfulness. Here and there 
 we met with broken acacias, over which a thousand uptearing 
 tempests seemed to have passed ; while masses of rocks, which 
 had toppled from their heights, blocked up the dreary pass. 
 It was wearisome work for the poor patient camels to make 
 their way. Having mastered the more difficult parts, we 
 entered upon an extensive sandy and stony plain, scattered 
 over with acacia clumps, with a burning sun over head 
 when, by and by, to our great delight, we again hailed the 
 bright waters of the Red Sea, and pitched for the midday 
 rest on a charming smooth sandy beach, just opposite the 
 little island of Graia, called by the Arabs, Kalat el Dier. 1 
 It was charming, after the fatigue of the morning march, to 
 bathe in those sparkling waves, beneath which multitudes 
 of coral groves were distinctly visible. We were now 
 fairly out of reach of the Mezzeni, and in the territory 
 of friendly Arabs, with their Sheikh among our escort. We 
 enjoyed, therefore, our noontide rest, with every assurance 
 of safety. 
 
 1 This little Island, on which there are yet the remains of bold fortifications, 
 served from an early period, as a defence of the port of Elath, against tribes 
 whom it was always difficult to subdue. In the time of the crusades, it became 
 a theatre of Christian valour; but was totally abandoned as far back as the 
 fourteenth century.
 
 AKABAH. 183 
 
 Soon after commencing the afternoon march, our eyes 
 were fixed upon what appeared like a narrow strip of land 
 studded with palm trees, on the eastern side of the Red 
 Sea ; but yet so distant as to be very indistinct, though the 
 sun was brightly bearing down upon it. This was Akabah 
 the point of our destination. After what we had experienced 
 it was indeed delightful, even at such a distance, to gaze 
 towards the termination of our second Desert route. We 
 toiled onwards, but still it appeared very distant; yet we 
 quite calculated on reaching it at some time during the evening 
 or night. At length, after having passed Wadey Merakh, 
 and Wadey Taba, scattered over with palm trees, and others 
 bearing a curious shelled fruit, called the Dom (of which the 
 Arabs eat freely, though it is unpalatable enough), we came 
 to the head of the gulph ; and, immediately before us, lay 
 the palm-groves of Akabah. Darkness overtook us before we 
 reached them ; and it was one of the most picturesque things 
 I ever witnessed, to see great numbers of bivouac fires 
 quickly lighted in various parts of the groves, around which 
 were gathered large parties of the Desert inhabitants, with 
 their wild features and costume brilliantly illuminated. 
 Akabah is quite a place of resort for all tribes and 
 travellers passing on either of the routes east, west, north, 
 or south. The groves afford them a temporary home. Akabah 
 was literally swarming with Arabs especially the Aloeens 
 and other neighbouring tribes of Edom. 
 
 In the midst of the palm-groves is the little fortress of 
 Akabah, in which is placed a Turkish governor with a small 
 body of irregular and ragged soldiery. Here government 
 stores are kept for the supply of the Hadj caravans to Mecca ; 
 and something like a shew of authority is exercised over the 
 neighbouring tribes, who are, after all, more easily led than 
 driven. Some travellers have, in prospect of greater safety, 
 obtained admission to the fortress as their home during their 
 brief stay. We preferred having our tents pitched under 
 the walls, on the western side, so as to occupy a nice shady 
 spot on the very brink of the gulph of Akabah, commanding 
 the loveliest mountain scenery imaginable.
 
 184 AKABAU. 
 
 On reaching Akabah, our Bedaween brought us up to this 
 position. When we had arrived, I could scarcely see any 
 object but the tall palm trees above me ; when suddenly I 
 felt a hand drawing the halter of the camel from mine, 
 and preparing to make the animal kneel down for me to 
 dismount. I guessed it was a friend ; but I knew not who it 
 was. Scarcely had the camel knelt on the sand, when I found 
 myself grasped by a pair of strong arms, and fairly lifted 
 off my saddle. I was next kissed on both cheeks by a rough 
 bearded person, after the Arab manner, who, with a sobbing 
 voice, pronounced the name of" Suleiman." I recognized the 
 voice of poor Jumar, who had reached Akabah in safety, and 
 was the first to greet us in this affecting way. It quite touched 
 my heart, thus, in a wild spot of the earth, to be greeted as by 
 a friend. I felt as if Akabah was a home for me. Jumar 
 h'ad related to others of his tribe, whom he found there, the 
 sad story of our journey from Mount Sinai; and soon he 
 brought to us Toualeb a Sheikh of the Oualed Said, who 
 greeted us cordially; and told Hassenein that had they not 
 seen us approaching towards the head of the gulph in the 
 course of the afternoon, he should have sent off an Arab with a 
 dromedary, to make inquiries about us ; for he had entertained 
 great fears for our safety. 
 
 At present, besides the little fortress, Akabah contains only 
 a few rude habitations of the most wretched kind a dreary 
 contrast to its former greatness, when Solomon sent from 
 thence his ships to Opliir, and there constructed his vessels. 1 
 
 1 1 Kings, ix. 26. What a humbling picture docs this very spot present, of the 
 perUhableness of human euterprizes and temporal interests. If one could 
 minutely trace out the changes which it has undergone since the day when Israel 
 encamped on it in their wanderings (Numb, xxxiii. 3o), we should gaze on it 
 with a solemn and melancholy interest. 
 
 Ezion-geber and Elath are mentioned together in scripture narrative. The 
 former appears to have been the naval station, and was certainly situate on the 
 eastern shore of the Red Sea, called the Elanitic Gulph, from Elath, Allah, Ala, 
 and Alana, which stood at the head. The latter was, doubtless, the proper 
 entrepot of commercial entcrprize. On the conquest of Edoru by David, he 
 took possession of this place, and there established a trade to all parts of the 
 then known world. Solomon certainly built his ships here, and sent them to 
 Ophir. It continued in possession of the Israelites about one hundred and fifty
 
 FUTURE MOVEMENTS. 185 
 
 At Akabah, the engagement with our Sinaite Arabs 
 terminated ; except that by their contract they were to wait two 
 days while we should determine upon our future movements. 
 Our desire was to pass through Edom, and to visit the 
 far-famed ruins of Petra ; and thence pass onwards to the Holy 
 Land by way of Hebron ; in which case it would have been 
 needful to put ourselves under the escort of the Aloeens, the 
 most powerful tribe of Edom, and dismiss our Sinaite Mends, 
 who never venture to conduct a caravan through that peculiar 
 region, of which Sheikh Hussein has, for a long time past, 
 been the mighty autocrat. 
 
 To make a bargain with Bedaween Arabs in Cairo, is no 
 difficult matter. In the heart of the Desert it is a very different 
 thing. And their cupidity and meanness in such transactions 
 is quite disgusting. We had a fair specimen of it. It requires 
 no small nerve and determination to deal with them in their 
 own fastnesses. And besides, I believe they fancy that all 
 Europeans, especially Englishmen, are as wealthy as Nabobs. 
 
 At the time of our arrival at Akabah, there was a large 
 assemblage of Sheikhs and inferior Arabs, especially of the 
 tribes of Edom, gathered together for the purpose of attempting 
 some adjustment of questions which had been long pending, 
 such as that between the Sinaite tribes and the Mezzeni, which 
 cost Suleiman his life. Each tribe was eagerly asserting its 
 right against Sheikh Hussein ; who, with his powerful tribe 
 of Aloeens, had long monopolized the route through Petra to 
 Hebron. In such a state of things, we felt it would be unsafe 
 to attempt a passage in that direction, much as we desired it. 
 The settlement of all matters in dispute between the tribes, 
 could alone render it practicable. 
 
 years, until, in the reign of Jorum, it was recovered by the Edomites, from 
 whom it was retaken by Azariali. Under Ahaz, it was captured by Resin, 
 the Syrian. Jerome says it was the first port from India to Egypt. It became 
 subject to the Ptolemies after the death of Alexander the Great; and in the 
 time of Jerome, the tenth Roman legion was stationed in it. (See 2 Sam. viii. 
 14; 2 Chron. viii. 17, 18; 2 Kings viii. 20, xiv. 22, xvi. 6.)
 
 186 ENCAMPMENT AT AKABAH. 
 
 On the morning after our arrival (June 1st), the scene 
 
 which presented itself at the tent door was very charming. 
 
 The tall palm trees above us formed a delightful shade; 
 
 while full in front lay the Elanitic gulph, with its deep blue 
 
 waters sparkling in the early sunlight, and rippling to its 
 
 margin, within a few yards of us. On the opposite side, rose 
 
 up the north-eastern termination of Gebel el Tih rose-tinted, 
 
 massive, yet graceful ; and far off to the left, the peninsular 
 
 country of Nuweibia; while on the right lay Wadey el 
 
 Arabah, stretching upwards to Mount Hor, and onward 
 
 towards the Dead Sea. On the smooth waters of the gulph 
 
 was to be seen here and there a fisherman, astride on the 
 
 trunk of a palm tree for a boat, plying the only occupation 
 
 of the resident Arabs ? while scores of little sunburnt children 
 
 were sporting in the shallow waters at the margin, dashing 
 
 along and shouting with wild joy. Hound and about our 
 
 encampment were to be seen and heard noisy clamorous 
 
 parties of various tribes, squatting in circles, and gazing with 
 
 earnest curiosity upon us the newly arrived European 
 
 travellers. It was a strange scene. 
 
 In the course of the forenoon, we received a visit from 
 Sheikh Hussein, who had been informed of our desire to pass 
 through Edom to Hebron. These Sheikh's speak of their 
 " kingdoms," and assume a lofty bearing. Was Sheikh 
 Hussein a descendant of the "Dukes of Edom ?" In appear- 
 ance, he might, at all events, be deemed a most striking and 
 picturesque representative. Though five shillings, English, 
 would probably have been a fair price for the purchase 
 of every rag upon his back, yet he exhibited a calm stateliness 
 of manner, quite apart from formality or stiffness, which made 
 one forget every thing else but his thin, expressive, sunburnt 
 countenance, lighted up by the quickest and most sparkling 
 eyes I ever beheld. Every action was graceful, every glance 
 
 1 There are several varieties of excellent fish to be found in the Red Sea, one 
 of which, called by the Arabs NAZARI (i. e. the Christian), is peculiarly delicious. 
 It grows to a large size is of a fine crimson and vermilion colour, and its flesh 
 something Ivkc that of the turbot. We had a fine specimen of it on our table.
 
 SHEIKH HUSSEIN. 187 
 
 full of meaning. He is of moderate height thin and wiry ; 
 and, I suppose, between fifty and sixty years of age ; but with 
 all the elasticity of youth. We exchanged the usual saluta- 
 tions as he entered the tent, and seated himself between us. 
 Pipes and coffee were immediately served, as the preliminary 
 to all Arab conferences. Sheikh Hussein is a fearfully profuse 
 smoker. 
 
 Having previously acquired some knowledge of his 
 character, we were prepared for a scene. He is a greedy, 
 avaricious, and subtle man. Our conference was soon opened, 
 and he boldly demanded of us ten thousand piastres (about 
 one hundred pounds, English), as the price of a suitable 
 escort and safe conduct through Edom to Hebron. We 
 replied, we were not prepared to give him any thing like 
 that sum ; that we knew he had conveyed other Englishmen, 
 and a nobleman, too (Lord Lindsay), for much less and that 
 on making pecuniary provisions for our Desert-route, we had 
 calculated accordingly. Hussein declared that he would not 
 have demanded so much, but for certain arrangements he 
 had made with other tribes, which would oblige him to divide 
 among many whatever he should receive; and that in 
 consequence of such arrangements, travellers would be no 
 longer exposed to the dangers and difficulties with other tribes 
 that they had been ; and hinted that this increased facility was 
 something worth paying for. We replied, we had nothing 
 to do with the arrangements between him and other tribes ; 
 that we were not bound, or even over anxious to go by way 
 of Petra ; that we were quite ready to return with our Beni 
 Sa'ids to Suez, and to proceed from thence by way of Gaza, or 
 Nakhl ', and that they were awaiting our determination. We 
 said we would not submit to an exhorbitant demand, but 
 were willing to give him four thousand five hundred piastres, 
 and a suitable backsheech at Hebron, if he fulfilled his 
 engagements to our satisfaction. He refused the offer, and 
 our conference broke up. But there are always many words 
 to an Arab bargain. We concluded that we should see 
 Hussein again.
 
 188 SHEIKH HUSSEIN. 
 
 Soon after he had left us, we received a visit of ceremony 
 from the governor of the fortress, attended by one of his 
 satellites, both of them thorough Turks, and both equally 
 mean and insignificant in manners and appearance. Scarcely 
 were they seated in the tent, when a fine, venerable personage, 
 a Sheikh of the Amram tribe, with a white, flowing beard, 
 and arrayed in his full Desert attire, presented himself as our 
 guest, and very unceremoniously took his seat, while the door 
 of the tent was surrounded by a wild set of hangers-on, 
 of various tribes, who squatted in the dust, and intently gazed 
 on all that was passing, exchanging sundry remarks with each 
 other indicating, as most Arabs do, a prying curiosity. 
 Pipes and coffee were forthwith served to our new friends ; 
 and we soon found that our hospitality was bidding fair to 
 keep up a constant succession of visitors, as long as our stores 
 of coffee and tobacco lasted. I had given relief to the 
 inflamed eye of one of our own people, the news of which was 
 soon spread abroad ; and I began to fear I should be called 
 upon to try my skill upon all the eyes in Akabah. The Arabs 
 are vastly fond of medicine, and such like things. One, 
 whose sight was quite gone, was led up to the tent, and, 
 begging me to cure him, appeared quite surprised and 
 disappointed when I said it was beyond my skill. 
 
 We saw no more of Sheikh Hussein during the day ; and 
 were somewhat annoyed at learning, that instead of arrange- 
 ments having been positively made, as he had alleged, between 
 him and other tribes, in reference to the conducting of 
 travellers there was then a parliament of Sheikh's actually 
 assembled for the adjustment of the still open question ; and 
 certainly, during all this and the next day, the little world 
 of Akabah rang with the clamorous discussions of these 
 mighty men of the wilderness ; and we felt that till they had 
 fairly come to an understanding, it would be most indiscreet 
 in us, to attempt the route by Petra. We had already seen 
 enough of Desert-law to make us very circumspect on this 
 subject.
 
 SHEIKH HUSSEIN. 189 
 
 On the third day, while our Sinaite Arabs were becoming 
 anxious to return to their tents, Sheikh Hussein again made 
 his appearance, accompanied by his son Mahommed, a fine 
 young Bedawee, preparing, with no small precocity, to follow 
 in the steps of his father. I inquired of him his age ; 
 "Allah knows," said he, " I do not." I suppose the vagrant 
 habits of Bedaween life beget a total indifference to such 
 matters. Mahommed and his father would have made a fine 
 study for a painter, as they squatted together with all the 
 wildness of the Desert visible in them. The behaviour of 
 Hussein was quite as free from embarrassment on renewing 
 the negociation, as if we had not, on the former occasion, so 
 decidedly checked his rapacity. He assured us that every 
 thing was now really adjusted between him and the rest of the 
 assembled Sheikhs, and that the journey might be taken 
 with perfect safety that he was quite able to command our 
 safe conduct. We looked suspicious, as he had before 
 misinformed us; and besides we well knew that he only 
 wanted our money, and just as much of it as he could 
 squeeze out of us. Our desire to pass through Edom had 
 certainly undergone some diminution since we had arrived at 
 Akabah; and we knew that another route to Hebron was 
 open to us, by retaining our Sinaite Arabs ; so we replied, that 
 if he would escort us for such a remuneration as he had been 
 content with from other Englishmen, under similar circum- 
 stances, we were willing to put ourselves under his care. I 
 reduced our proposals to writing stipulating for safe conduct, 
 for four thousand five hundred piastres, and five hundred more 
 as backsheech on reaching Hebron, together with sundry 
 other matters as to the time we should be allowed to stay, 
 without molestation, among the remains of Petra, &c. This 
 document was read over and explained to him in Arabic, and 
 he appeared to make no strong objection to its contents; 
 and said he would rather conduct us at a loss to himself, than, 
 that we should return with our Beni Sai'ds. We bade him 
 consider the matter fully, and see us again at sunset. He 
 returned some time after the hour appointed, saying he must 
 have eight thousand piastres, and five hundred more as
 
 190 FINAL ARRANGEMENTS. 
 
 backsheech ; and hinted something about a new dress a not 
 unusual present from travellers to their Sheikhs. We simply 
 replied, we had not so much money with us, nor could we 
 have, till we should reach Jerusalem. We now distinctly 
 informed him that the negociation was at an end, and that 
 we should next day enter upon another route with our Beni 
 Sa'ids. Hussein evinced neither anger nor disappointment, 
 further than that he rose up with all imaginable stateliness, 
 and departed without a salaam. 
 
 The die being now cast, we relinquished all hope of 
 visiting Petra gave directions for our caravan to be put 
 in marching order for the following morning, and made an 
 agreement with Jumar, who was then to act as the represen- 
 tative of poor Suleiman, for fourteen camels, at two hundred 
 piastres for each. This was to include every thing, except 
 such backsheech as we might be disposed to give on reaching 
 Dhaheriyeh, on the borders of Canaan, beyond which, he 
 and his tribe had not power to escort us. So faithfully had 
 our Bedaween served us during our former routes, that I 
 felt no small satisfaction while looking forward to a third, 
 under the escort of men who had attached themselves to us, 
 and shared our dangers and difficulties. 
 
 It was on the "great and terrible wilderness" of Paran, that 
 we were preparing to enter, with a probability of spending 
 ten or eleven days in threading our way through its wilds 
 and fastnesses. We had already been for twenty-two days 
 in the wilderness of Shur or Etham, 1 and were pretty well 
 familiarized with all that appertains to Desert-life and habits. 
 
 1 Exodus xv. 22. Numbers xxxiii 8. The wilderness of Shur seems to 
 comprehend all the western part of Arabia Petrtta. If there was any difference 
 between the wilderness of Shur and that of Etham, it seems to have been only 
 this, that they differed one from the other, as a part from its whole. As Shur 
 seems to have been the general name of all that part of Arabia Pctnra that lay 
 next to Egypt, so by the wilderness of Shur, was probably denoted all the 
 Desert tract thereof; whereas only part of this Desert tract, namely, so much 
 aa lay nearest to Etham, was peculiarly called the wilderness of Etham.
 
 PANIC. 191 
 
 We reinforced our store of provisions, rice, flour, coffee, &c. 
 from the fortress of Akabah ; paid our return visit of ceremony 
 to the governor, and awaited the return of the morning light 
 to commence our march. 
 
 Knowing that Sheikh Hussein and his Aloeens were in full 
 force at Akabah, and that they could not but be chagrined at 
 our resolving to turn our backs upon them and their country, 
 I confess I was not without apprehension that some ruse might 
 be put in practice to intimidate us, or some insurmountable 
 hinderance thrown in the way of our progress by another 
 route. I even thought it possible that the rest of the Sheikhs, 
 with whom Hussein had been so long wrangling, might on 
 such an occasion coalesce with him, and keep us in their 
 power, so as to attempt at forcing the terms of Hussein upon 
 us. During the afternoon, a rumour ran like lightning through 
 the encampment, that the Aloeens were stealing our camels 
 (which were feeding among the low bushes), so as to cut 
 off our means of departure. The whole of Akabah was in 
 commotion. Arabs were seen wildly mounting and dashing 
 away at full speed, some without their turbans, and with the 
 long locks of hair left at the top of their shaven heads, 
 streaming in the wind grasping their matchlock guns in 
 their extended right hands, as if preparing for a grand melee, 
 and shouting as it were in a loud war-cry. All this certainly 
 looked very ominous ; and it was no very pleasant thing to 
 know, that personally we were without the slightest means 
 of defence, against a party so strong and savage as the Aloeens, 
 in the event of their resolving to be troublesome. In the 
 midst of this strange scene, I was filled with apprehension at 
 hearing shot after shot fired in the direction towards which 
 the general confluence of Arabs had been. But at length 
 all was silent again ; scarcely a voice was to be heard. The 
 Arabs were quietly returning. The rumour was, after all, 
 unfounded ; and the gun-shots had been fired at a mark by 
 a few Turkish soldiers belonging to the fortress, and some 
 of the Arabs who had nothing better to do.
 
 TERMINATION OF SOJOURN AT AKABAH. 
 
 A quiet, calm, lovely night terminated our sojourn at 
 Akabah. "We went to our repose in that wild spot, with our 
 hearts resting on the renewed mercies of God, and our hopes 
 looking forth to the wilderness of Paran.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 THE DESERT; 
 
 PROM AKABAH TO DHAHERIYEH. 
 
 WILDERNESS OF PARAN DEPARTURE FROM AKABAH PLAIN OF DARFUREKH 
 
 STRANGERS THE HAIWAT TRIBE WADEY EL MUSHEHHEM "THE WAY 
 
 OF MOUNT SEIR" WADEY EL G'SSAIM ADVENTURE WITH THE TIYAHAH 
 
 TRIBE ADJUSTMENT OF DIFFERENCES EBODAH 'ABDEH WADEY ER 
 
 RUHAIBEH REHOBOTH WADEY EL KHALUSEH ELUSA THE RETEM 
 
 THE BORDERS OF CANAAN BIR-ES-SEBA BEERSHEBA DHAHERIYEH 
 
 AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS DISMISSAL OF THE BEDAWEEN. 
 
 IT was in the wilderness of Paran that Ishmael dwelt, when 
 from the days of his youth he grew up and became an archer ; 
 and God was with the lad. 1 And it was in this "great 
 and terrible wilderness," also, that for thirty-eight 2 of their 
 forty years, the people of Israel wandered. Hitherto we 
 had trodden much in their footsteps, and perhaps pitched 
 our tents on the very scenes of some of their encampments. 
 A similar source of delightful satisfaction awaited us in 
 the wilderness of Paran. We could not but feel a deepened 
 sense of the reality of scripture narrative while journeying 
 through these venerable localities. Indeed, the very habits 
 of oriental life made me often feel as if I were actually living 
 
 1 Genesis xxi. 20, 21. 
 
 2 Deut. ii. 14. The whole of this part of the Desert is called by the Arabs 
 Et Tih that is " the wandering." The name Et Tih, as applied to this locality, 
 is found both in Edrisa and Abulfeda, who refer it to the wanderings of the 
 children of Israel.
 
 194 WILDERNESS OF PARAN. 
 
 in the bible period of the world. I suppose the manners 
 of the Arabs have undergone little, if any, modification since 
 Ishmacl came to dwell in Paraii. All the world about them, 
 has undergone change; but the descendants of Ishmael are 
 unchanged. 
 
 The wilderness of Paran is generally understood to include 
 the Desert and mountainous space lying between the wilder- 
 ness of Shur, westward, or towards Egypt, and Mount Seir, ot 
 the land of Edora, eastward ; between the land of Canaan, 
 northwards, and the Eed Sea, southwards; and thus it 
 appears to have comprehended, really, the wilderness of Sin 
 and Sinai, together with the adjoining tract, in which 
 lay Kibroth-hattaavah and Hazeroth. This may be gathered, 
 perhaps, from Deut. i. 19, where it is said "When we 
 departed from Horeb, we went through all that great and 
 terrible wilderness, which you saw by the way of the 
 mountain of the Amorites ; and we came to Kadesh-barnea." 
 The wilderness of Paran, in the large acceptation of the 
 term above referred to, seems clearly to be the wilderness 
 mentioned in this passage. 
 
 I feel greater difficulty in attempting to make intelligible 
 my route through the wilderness of Paran, than through the 
 other parts of the Arabian Desert which I have traversed; 
 for in the first place, there is a hopeless discordancy of 
 names in most of the maps, ancient and modern, that I 
 have consulted ; and, moreover, among the Arabs themselves, 
 a similar want of agreement is observable on the same 
 subject. And what is worse than all, many of the ancient 
 scripture names of places have been entirely obliterated, and 
 others are traceable with the greatest difficulty in an Arabic 
 intermixture. It may, however, be sufficient for my present 
 purpose, to mention that our route lay directly through the 
 heart of the Wilderness of Paran, preceding first due west, 
 then bearing upwards in a north-westerly direction, for full 
 half the way; and thence, in a north-easterly course to 
 Dhaheriyeh. As to the present names of the various places
 
 DEPARTURE FROM AKABAH. 195 
 
 of our daily encampments, I can only give them according to 
 their sound as pronounced by the Arabs. 1 This part of the 
 Arabian 'Desert is far less visited by Europeans than others; 
 indeed, it is comparatively unknown, except through the 
 recent work of Dr. Robinson. 
 
 It was on the fourth of June that we recommenced our 
 journey. 2 The early morning sun had overspread the lovely 
 gulph of Akabah and its mountain girdle, with unspeakable 
 brilliancy, when we rose for the purpose of getting our 
 caravan in marching order. The usual adjustments caused 
 the usual delays ; and it was not until nearly eight o'clock 
 that we were fairly on our way. 
 
 Knowing the subtlety of the Arab character, and somewhat 
 of their greediness of gain, I could scarcely repress the 
 apprehension that some coup de main would be attempted 
 against us by Sheikh Hussein and his Aloeens, and that they 
 would not allow us quietly to depart. We mounted, however, 
 taking Jumar as our Sheikh, and one of the servants 
 leaving the rest of the escort to follow with as little 
 delay as possible. Passing down from our encampment to 
 the narrow shingly shore of the gulph, we could not well 
 avoid coming in full view of the encampment of the Aloeens, 
 from which a few shots, if judiciously directed from among 
 the palm-clumps, might quietly enough have done great 
 execution upon us. We had, however, sufficient reason for 
 believing that Hussein would not rashly embarrass or injure a 
 party of so powerful a tribe as that by which we were escorted, 
 or offer real molestation to those under their care. Hussein 
 
 1 It is believed that many of the Arabs purposely give false names to places, 
 in. order to deceive. It is a prevailing notion among them, that Europeans visit 
 their territories only for the sake of discovering and obtaining possession 
 of hidden treasures, of which they suppose there are many. 
 
 2 During our stay at Akabah, Viscount Castlcrcagh arrived from Cairo, with 
 a large escort, and upwards of fifty camels. On his Lordship's invitation, we 
 united our caravans, and went forth with between sixty and seventy camels, 
 and suitable escorts, &c.
 
 196 DEPARTURE FROM AKABAH. 
 
 had too much on his hands with the adjacent tribes, to render 
 it expedient for him to be at war with the Sinaite tribes, as 
 he must have been had he intercepted our course by violence. 
 Besides, he well knew that if Europeans suffered injury at 
 his hands at Akabah, there would be a suspension, at least 
 for a time, of all travelling through his territory ; so that 
 his craft would be greatly endangered. Apart from such 
 considerations as these, I cannot suppose that his Arab 
 cupidity would have suffered us to pass in safety. 
 
 We continued along the narrow beach, having the palm- 
 groves of Akabah on our right. We had not gone more than 
 a quarter of a mile, ere we saw the encampment of Hussein, 
 and the Sheikh himself, his son Mahommed, and a few of his 
 tribe squatting together under the low bushes. Instead 
 of offering any hindrance, Hussein rose as we passed, with a 
 stately air, and gave us the salaam; but addressed a few 
 words to Jumar, in a sharp, angry tone, the purport of which 
 was "You have brought travellers to Akabah, and waited 
 to take them away again. You have no right to do this. 
 The next time you escort any, go back to your tents imme- 
 diately, and leave them here ; or look to yourselves." 
 There was a threat implied in this, full bold enough to be 
 held out to tribes so powerful as those of Mount Sinai. 
 
 We were soon joined by the rest of the escort, and slowly 
 wound our way along the head of the gulph, till we reached, 
 on its western side, the entrance of the Grand Egyptian Hadj 
 route, commencing in a steep defile, through a vast mass 
 of mountain, called Gebel Mahamar. 1 It was by this pass that 
 Ibrahim Pasha returned from his Syrian expedition ; and, in 
 many parts, we found it literally strewed with the carcases of 
 his camels, horses, and mules. Sometimes the stench of them 
 was quite intolerable. On gaining the heights of Gebel 
 Mahamar, we commanded a superb view of the gulph of 
 Akabah, stretching far off to the south, and lying like a vast 
 
 1 In some maps, it is called " En Nukb," and " Ka& en Nukb."
 
 DEPARTURE FROM AKABAH. 197 
 
 purple amethyst set in a rich incrustation of Mosaic work for 
 such the surrounding mountains appeared while bathed in 
 the light of the morning sun. Northward, extended Wadey 
 Arabah the usual route for Petra, by way of Mount Hor, 
 which most travellers have believed to be the ancient bed of the 
 River Jordan, through which it was thought to have joined the 
 gulph of Akabah, prior to the destruction of the cities of the 
 plain, and the formation of the saline deposit of the Dead Sea, 
 from which there is now no exit. 1 But, however this might 
 have been, it was a delightful thought that few changes could 
 have occurred in the general aspect of this scene, since 
 Israel in their wanderings looked down upon it as we looked, 
 when they passed by from their brethren the children of 
 Esau, who dwelt in Seir, through the way of the plain from 
 Elath, and from Ezion-geber, and turned, and passed by the 
 way of the wilderness of Moab. 2 It is this which imparts 
 so peculiar an interest to these wild scenes. If I gaze on 
 the remains of ancient Greece and Rome, or survey the 
 fragments of Egypt's mysterious majesty, I can behold but 
 little as it was seen in the palmy days of those wondrous 
 abodes of might and grandeur : but I can see the wilderness 
 as Israel saw it, though the storms and tempests of centuries 
 upon centuries have gathered and broken over its surface. 
 There is an idea of permanence in the very aspect of the 
 wilderness, which cannot exist where the transmuting and 
 transforming hand of man has motive for its exercise. Rome, 
 Greece, Egypt, have been susceptible of change ; and they 
 have been changed. They will continue to change. But the 
 wilderness is too vast for the grasp of man. Rome, indeed, 
 has left the print of her mighty foot even there, and it will 
 abide; but still the Desert is the same. 
 
 1 This opinion has been generally entertained till recently ; but it now seems 
 to admit of a question. Certainly there is a rery striking resemblance between 
 the general features of so much of Wadey Arabah as I could descry, and those 
 of the valley of the Jordan. I shall touch more fully on this subject in another 
 place. 
 
 2 Deut. ii. 8.
 
 198 PLAIN OF DARFUREKH STRANGERS. 
 
 Continuing our ascent till twelve o'clock, we halted amidst 
 mountains remarkable not only for the bold gracefulness 
 of their outline, but also for the variety of rich colouring which 
 they presented dark olive, rich brown, umber, rose-tint all 
 blended in the loveliest harmony of effect. Sometimes by 
 easy and gradual, and then by steep and difficult ascents, we 
 reached, by six o'clock in the evening, the borders of the 
 far-stretching plain of Darfurekh, skirted at its extremities by 
 hilly undulations, seen in beautiful outline upon the unclouded 
 sky. The surface of the plain is covered over, in all parts, by 
 loose fragments of hard stone, almost as black as coal, and as 
 if broken up with a hammer for the purpose of forming a 
 macadamized road. We encamped for the night, upon a spot 
 bearing traces of having been the habitual halting place of the 
 great caravans to Mecca. There lay the remaining ashes of 
 their bivouac fires, and the circles formed by the circumference 
 of their tents. 
 
 If the quick eye of an Arab descries in the distance the 
 slow step of a camel, or the gleaming of a spear-head, or the 
 uplifted barrel of a matchlock, he puts himself in readiness to 
 meet a foe, or a victim ; or to embrace a friend, and salute 
 him with a fraternal kiss. On the open plains of the Desert, 
 approaching objects are discernible at a great distance. Just 
 as the sun was going down, we were all put on the qui vive, 
 by the sudden appearance of three camels, mounted, and 
 advancing by the way we had come, towards the place 
 of our encampment. Our first persuasion was, that it must 
 be Sheikh Hussein, coming to us with a hope of making terms, 
 and of inducing us to retrace our steps towards Petra. They 
 soon approached near enough for us to notice that one 
 of the camels was white; and we knew that Hussein's son 
 Mahommed was wont to ride a white camel. If it were 
 Hussein and Mahommed, we felt persuaded that they had not 
 come alone, but that somewhere in the rear, would by and 
 by be seen a stout troop of followers. It was an exciting 
 moment. The strangers at length reached our encampment, 
 dismounted, and were soon received, certainly not as foes by
 
 THE HAIWAT TRIBE. 199 
 
 a circle seated round one of the evening fires. They were not 
 Aloeens, but of the Haiwat tribe ; and one of them was a Sheikh. 
 Part of our route lay through the territory of this tribe. 
 
 On the following morning at half-past five, just as we were 
 making preparations for the march, it appeared that the Sheikh 
 had claimed for his tribe, like the Mezzeni, a right to supply 
 camels, at a price to be agreed on ; and, after much wrangling, 
 as usual, it seemed as if difficulties would arise. Past experience 
 had taught us anxiety on this subject a subject with which all 
 parts of the Desert are becoming rife. Where the law of the 
 sword prevails, matters such as these will hardly be adjusted 
 without much bloodshed. And till they are thoroughly disposed 
 of, a journey through the Desert, however safely it may be 
 made in regard to the persons and property of travellers, must 
 needs be attended with sad and vexatious annoyance. 
 
 It appeared that nothing was actually arranged between our 
 Bedaween and the Haiwat Sheikh when we recommenced our 
 march. There was much loud talking, and evident disquietude 
 in the caravan. We therefore resolved to force everything to 
 a point, at the noontide halting time ; and in this we succeeded, 
 having expressed our determination not to proceed another step 
 till all questions were disposed of. It seemed to be agreed, 
 that our Haiwat friends should join our escort and give us safe 
 conduct through their territory, upon terms of remuneration 
 which our people were to meet. The Haiwat Sheikh, though 
 barefoot, and clothed in a faded keffieh and a few other gaudy 
 coloured rags, was one of the most graceful persons I ever 
 beheld. His countenance was bland, and extremely versatile 
 in its expression his voice gentle and silvery. His every 
 action formed a picture but the rogue was greedy of gain. 
 When Lord Castlereagh good-naturedly received him and 
 others into his tent, for the purpose of settling disputes in the 
 presence of us all, he seated himself with the easy self-pos- 
 session of a noble among nobles, and talked of his "kingdom." 
 During the day, our route lay across the plain of Darfurekh ; 
 and at night we encamped in Wadey el Tumath.
 
 200 WADEY EL MUSHEHHEM. 
 
 During this day's journey, the camel which I had ridden 
 throughout the past journey, became slightly lame ; and as I 
 supposed that an Arab would manage better with him than 
 I could, I thankfully accepted Jumar's offer of poor Suleiman's 
 noble beast, which carried me during the rest of the way. 
 Often and often I called to mind, the manner, voice, figure, 
 and joyous spirits of our poor Sheikh, whose loss in the 
 caravan was very sensibly felt. He kept all in such admirable 
 marching trim; and his loud "yellah yellah" set everybody 
 in motion. He, poor fellow, was in his lonely Desert-grave. 
 We were the objects of God's wondrous mercy. 
 
 I feel it difficult as I have before intimated to convey 
 to an European mind an idea of the impressions left upon my 
 own, by a Desert-route. Its loneliness amidst numbers its 
 frequent sameness its hoary antiquity the dreaminess of the 
 ordinary pace of the camels the absence of all human 
 habitations the sense of vast distance from the great world 
 and its civilization the fewness of incidents the melancholy 
 chanting of the Arabs towards sunset the wild, gipsey-like 
 appearance of the bivouac all combine to form a picture 
 of sensations (if I may be allowed such an expression), not 
 easily obliterated by time. I feel it all, while now writing, 
 with a keenly excited recollection. 
 
 On the third day, our way lay through Wadey el 
 Mushehhem, by easy passes between sandstone-rocks, the 
 structure of which, in some parts, resembles architectural 
 remains in the form of citadels and towers ; and sometimes 
 conveys an idea of the graduated seats of a vast amphitheatre. 
 At other parts they were extremely white and chalky, and 
 appeared to have been washed, and almost polished as if with 
 mechanical smoothness, by the torrents of many a thousand 
 years, whose evident bed gave the line of our march. Finding 
 a deposit of rain water, fit for the camels, and not altogether 
 intolerable for ourselves, we encamped at a rather earlier 
 hour than usual ; for water in the Desert is too much prized 
 to be knowingly passed by.
 
 "THE WAY OF MOUNT SEIR" WADEY EL G'SSAIM. 201 
 
 For two nights past we had felt it exceedingly cold for 
 such a climate ; and, indeed, in the morning we found our 
 clothes and linen damp with the night-dew a rather unusual 
 circumstance at this season of the year. 
 
 Our fourth day's journey, from Wadey el Mushehhem 
 through Wadey el Kureiyeh, which cost us ten hours of 
 fatiguing and dreary travelling, quite filled my mind with an 
 idea of " the great and terrible wilderness." "We were in the 
 direction of "the way of Mount Seir," 1 which lay directly 
 from Mount Horeb, across the wilderness of Paran, in a north- 
 easterly direction ; from whence Moses sent forth to spy out 
 the land of Canaan. 2 During a great part of the day, we were 
 harassed by drifting sands ; and when, at noon, we lay down 
 for rest, we awoke almost covered by accumulations which 
 had been driven under the edge of the tent. The night was 
 boisterous so much as to jeopardize our encampment; but 
 we weathered it ; and after upwards of nine hours wearisome 
 toil over sandy plains during the next day, we encamped 
 soon after sunset, in a lovely spot called Wadey el G'ssaim. 3 
 It is a splendid amphitheatre of beautifully outlined and tinted 
 hills, the colours of which were strikingly brought out by the 
 rich beams of the setting sun. I do not know that I ever 
 felt the effect of colour more than I did on this occasion. 
 Every object in the caravan the camels Arabs, &c. all 
 were bathed in the gorgeous light, as we gathered round the 
 wells which supplied refreshment for the beasts. 
 
 The next day was an eventful one. On our arrival at 
 Wadey el G'ssaim, on the preceding evening, a rumour ran 
 through the encampment, that the Tiyahah tribe, into whose 
 territory we had then just entered, and who are numerous 
 and powerful, claimed the exclusive right to conduct 
 travellers through their own country towards Dhaheriyeh, 
 and intended to enforce their claim by compelling our escort 
 to return, and by supplying us, on their own terms, with 
 
 1 Deut. i. 2. 2 Numb. xiii. 329. 3 Or, " Wadey Es-Ain."
 
 202 ADVENTURE WITH THE TIYAHAH TRIBE. 
 
 camels belonging to their tribe. "We gave little heed to 
 this believing that any little difficulty that might arise, 
 would be easily adjusted ; the more especially as there 
 was no actual feud, or "blood" 1 between the Sinaite and 
 Tiyahah tribes. A Sheikh of the latter tribe had accompanied 
 us from Akabah, and given us full assurance of safety; 
 but it afterwards appeared that there are two divisions 
 of the tribe that he presided over the more distant division, 
 and had no authority over that on whose territory we had 
 entered. 
 
 In the morning, soon after daybreak, the latter came down 
 upon us in a large body perhaps about one hundred strong, 
 and as wild and ferocious a set of savages as one would wish 
 to meet in the Desert armed to the teeth with their long 
 matchlock guns, and the other usual weapons. Hearing a 
 stir in the encampment, we rose and looked out, and were 
 rather startled at seeing one division of them prepared to 
 discuss the question with our people, while the other occupied 
 the brow of a steep rock, commanding every turn of the 
 pass by which we should have to proceed, with their guns 
 ready, and their matches actually burning and prepared for 
 an attack, in the event of our attempting to march. 
 
 The discussion proceeded with noisy violence till about 
 eight o'clock, during all which time we were in the power 
 of these vexatious visitors. "VVe and our servants kept aloof as 
 much as possible, and maintained an air of calm and fearless 
 indifference to the whole scene. While the hopeless wrangling 
 proceeded, three shots were fired from the brow of the 
 rock occupied by one division, but whether as a signal for 
 others of their tribe to join them, or for the purpose of 
 intimidation, it was not easy to determine. The Bedaween are 
 
 1 If an Arab of one tribe happens to kill one of another tribe there is said to 
 be "blood" between the tribes. Blood is to be repaid only by blood ; except 
 death is caused by accident, in which case the penalty is commuted for 
 sheep, or camels. This illustrates Exodus xxi. 13. Numbers xxxv. 9, &c. 
 Dcut. xix. 4, &c. Joshua xx. 1, &c.
 
 ADVENTURE WITH THE TIYAHAH TRIBE. 
 
 great cowards, no doubt ; and but for their matchlock guns, 
 with which they take a clever aim from a distance, I believe 
 half a dozen cool and determined Englishmen would put a 
 score of them to flight. 
 
 Soon after eight o'clock, our Sheikhs acceded to the terms 
 proposed. At a given signal, the party on the rock vacated 
 their position, and came down into the encampment. 
 The terms, so far as I could understand them, were, that 
 our Sinaite Bedaween should be dismissed, with their 
 camels that a supply of camels, of equal number, should 
 be furnished by the new tribe, to convey us throughout to 
 Dhaheriyeh; and that the Sheikhs in our caravan should 
 be allowed to accompany us according to their contract. We 
 were most unwilling to part with our Arabs, who had 
 accompanied us all the way from Cairo ; but there was no 
 avoiding it. And surely we had no right to complain of Desert 
 laws and usages. 
 
 The place of our encampment was now crowded with camels, 
 which had been brought by the Tiyahah Arabs ; and it was one 
 of the wildest scenes of uproar and clamour I ever witnessed, 
 while each individual possessing a camel, insisted on having 
 it taken into service. Sabres were drawn by men of the same 
 tribe, upon each other ; and a slight wound or two inflicted, 
 while cutting off the baggage from one loaded beast, in order 
 to put it, by force, upon another. And there is no doubt, that 
 many a display of desert ferocity would have been made, but 
 for the resolute interference of the less excited actors in the 
 strange, wild drama. There was one disappointed savage, 
 whose flashing eye and fiendish malignity I shall never totally 
 forget. He stalked away like a man bent on mischief. There 
 was a very remarkable difference between the appearance and 
 manner of the Tiyahah tribe, and those with whom we had 
 long been familiar. They had a gaunt, hungry and sanguinary 
 air, and a recklessness of bearing which proclaimed them 
 to be among the most untamed sons of the Desert. For the 
 most part too, they were taller, more sinewy and attenuated
 
 204 ADVENTURE WITH THE T1YAHAH TRIBE. 
 
 in their figures ; and tlie few rags which they wore betokened 
 extreme poverty. 
 
 Soon after nine o'clock, we were all loaded, and ready to 
 resume our journey, with minds anything but possessed in 
 favour of our new escort. Notwithstanding the presence of 
 our Sheikhs, I felt myself little better than a prisoner in their 
 hands ; for personally we had made no contract with them ; and 
 knew not exactly upon what footing, in minute particulars, 
 our connection with them was placed. As a general change 
 of animals, as well as of men, had been effected, I was required 
 to give up poor Suleiman's fine camel, which I had ridden 
 thus far in safety and comfort. Another was brought for me a 
 beast of immense height and strength, and thoroughly vicious ; 
 for while I was mounting, he rose suddenly before I could 
 reach my seat, and, in an instant, I was thrown head foremost 
 upon his neck, which, with a great effort, I contrived to grasp 
 with my arms ; and while thus suspended, the huge creature 
 reared and stamped with his fore feet, in order to get 
 rid of the incumbrance ; and it was not till some of the 
 Arabs sprang up and forced him down, that I could land 
 myself in safety. I then positively refused to ride him, and 
 insisted on being permitted to resume the use of Suleiman's. 
 This was at length conceded to me; and all seemed to be 
 fully adjusted. 
 
 For half an hour our way lay over an extensive plain, 
 rough and stony, and skirted on all sides by limestone rocks 
 of considerable magnitude ; and, crossing the plain in various 
 directions, we saw several mounted Arabs, riding at full speed 
 towards the rock, with their matchlock guns grasped in 
 their extended right hands. This betokened no good; and 
 evidently kept our party on the qui vice. We rode on slowly, 
 having our Sheikhs a little in advance of the caravan. When 
 we had reached nearly the middle of the plain, we saw 
 here and there a straggling Arab in the distance. By and 
 by their numbers increased, and some were mounted. At 
 length they seemed, as if by magic, to spring out of the
 
 ADVENTURE WITH THE TIYAHAH TRIBE. 205 
 
 earth, and from the clefts in the distant rocks. The whole 
 plain, right and left, appeared in motion. It was the 
 gathering of a clan! And surely never did the mountain 
 beacon-fires of Scotland promote a more prompt and 
 startling gathering. They rapidly advanced towards the 
 brow of a low sloping sandhill, which commanded our route. 
 Their numbers were great. I could not I did not attempt 
 to count them. Our party moved on but slowly, and, as I 
 thought, with an embarrassed and undecided step. We kept 
 in the rear, between the Sheikhs and the baggage camels. 
 When we were sufficiently near, a deputation, from either side 
 met, as usual, and occupied much time in clamorous talking, 
 accompanied by very emphatic gesticulations. We still kept 
 aloof, feeling that any attempt at interference, on our part, 
 would be but folly ; though since the affair with the Mezzeni, 
 which ended in the murder of Suleiman, I entertained no 
 personal fear ; being persuaded that the persons and property 
 of travellers, under the escort of a sufficiently powerful tribe, 
 would be respected ; yet I dreaded, lest a general melee should 
 take place, which might end in bloodshed and permanent 
 feud between these tribes. 
 
 After much tedious waiting, which was wearisome enough 
 to the spirits, one of our men who was engaged in conference, 
 made a signal for us to proceed, as if all matters of dispute 
 had been set at rest. We advanced a few steps, when the 
 whole party rushed down the declivity, on which they had taken 
 up their position, with great clamour and confusion ; and then 
 it seemed as if warfare must actually commence. Matches 
 were lighted, and weapons made ready. We dismounted 
 to await the issue. But, after all, the Arabs are furious 
 talkers and talk a long while before they actually strike a 
 home blow. Suddenly, however, a rush was made as if to 
 seize all the camels. I made some show of defending mine, 
 till Jumar came up and took charge of it. We soon found 
 ourselves actually in the possession of the new party; but 
 happily they consisted of that division of the Tiyahah tribe, 
 over which the Sheikh who had accompanied us from Akabah
 
 206 ADVENTURE WITH THE T1YAHAH TRTBE. 
 
 had authority; so that in this stirring scene they were in 
 some sort our friends. Again we renewed our march ; but 
 once more were compelled to halt. New questions arose in 
 a moment ; and again, matches were lighted and matchlocks 
 made ready. During all this time we were in total ignorance 
 of the cause of this new outbreak. Fresh attempts were 
 made to force us to dismount, and the clamour was wilder 
 and louder than ever. We endeavoured to proceed, when 
 suddenly an Arab, of no very prepossessing appearance, rode 
 near enough by my side to snatch the halter of the camel 
 out of my hand, which he fixed to the pummel of his own 
 saddle. I was somewhat perplexed at this manoeuvre, and 
 laid my hand on my pistols, with an air of determination 
 looking as terrible as a peaceful man could, when the fellow 
 immediately took out from his saddle-bag a cake of Arab 
 bread broke off a bit and gave it to me, at the same time 
 touching his heart and his lips with his hand. This was a 
 token of frendship. "VVe both ate of the bread. "We were 
 thenceforth to be allies; for to eat bread together is one 
 of the best guarantees of safety that can be had in the Desert. 
 We rode on in silence, but in some anxiety about the tents 
 and baggage, which had been sent in advance, before the 
 second encounter took place. After several hours' march, in 
 the heat of the noontide sun, we were rejoiced at descrying, 
 at about an hour's distance, the tents pitched ready for our 
 arrival, in Wadey es-S'ram. The sight was quite cheering. 
 As we advanced up the Wadey, which here and there shewed 
 signs of rude cultivation, we found several Arabs (I believe 
 of the tribe called 'Azazimah), some tending their goats, and 
 others threshing out wheat, the produce of one of the little 
 patches of cultivated ground near at hand. 
 
 While we were encamped, fresh matters of disturbance arose 
 between our Sheikhs and the Tiyahah escort, which bid fair to 
 break out into another stormy scene. It seemed too plain that 
 the Sheikhs were endeavouring to drive a sharp bargain. We 
 determined that all matters should be completely adjusted 
 before resuming our march. This was facilitated by the
 
 ADJUSTMENT OF DIFFERENCES. 207 
 
 unexpected arrival of another Sheikh, belonging to some 
 neighbouring tribe ; and the result of a protracted discussion 
 was the payment of five piastres per man (about one shilling, 
 English), to the Tiyahah escort, on receipt of which they agreed 
 to withdraw their camels, and permit us to proceed in peace 
 with our Sinaite party, who during the morning had taken 
 a circuitous route, and were now in sight, winding round a 
 mountain-pass towards Wadey es-S'ram the place of our 
 encampment. It was a relief to my mind to learn that after 
 all, we were to complete our journey under the convoy of our 
 old and tried friends, who shewed no small satisfaction at being 
 again encamped with us. 
 
 As there was water to be had beyond a range of hills which 
 skirted one side of Wadey es-S'ram, we resolved to encamp 
 where we then were, for the night and dispatched some of the 
 Arabs to the wells, called Birein, to replenish the water-skins. 
 And it was indeed a gratifying sight, when we beheld all the 
 disturbers of our peace, quietly wending their way back to 
 their tents gainers, just to the amount of five piastres per 
 man, after all the turmoil and violence which we had witnessed 
 during the day. We were assured that the next day's march 
 would put us quite out of the reach of danger and annoyance, 
 and therefore looked forward with some eagerness to 
 the resuming of our journey a little disturbed, perhaps, 
 at seeing, after dark, several bivouac fires in the Wadey 
 beyond, and on the mountains around us. We could not quite 
 assure ourselves, that it was not preparatory to some move- 
 ment against us on the next day. Happily, however, there 
 was no ground for apprehension. Round about Wadey 
 es-S'ram the Desert appeared much less bare and arid. The 
 hills assumed a smoother, and more undulating form; and here 
 and there was to be seen a thin sprinkling of grass, but seared 
 and withered by the heat of the sun. Traces, too, of rude 
 husbandry were visible on all sides. The laud once " flowing 
 with milk and honey, which is the glory of all lands," was 
 "ere long to be entered on; and the desert itself began to give 
 tokens of our approach towards its borders.
 
 08 EBODA 'ABDEH. 
 
 On the seventh day after quitting Akabah, we mounted at 
 five o'clock, and pursued our journey over a gently undulating 
 surface, stretching far and wide. It seemed boundless, as we 
 passed from slope to slope; and was covered with small 
 fragments of black stone, similar to what we had found in the 
 plain of Darfurekh. The former dreariness of the Desert 
 seemed to return upon us. After nearly two hours ride, we 
 noticed, on our left, some ruins, occupying a bold and 
 prominent position on a gracefully rising hill. The energy 
 of the Roman mind had once been displayed there; 
 and the mouldering ruins declared, in the solitude of the 
 Desert, how the glory of Rome had passed away. I think 
 there is no doubt that these are the ruins of the ancient 
 Eboda the name of which seems to be still retained in the 
 Arabic name, 'Abdeh. We turned off our direct path, for the 
 purpose of visiting these remains ; and as we approached them, 
 we noticed, right and left, the foundations of stone walls, which 
 had evidently, in days gone by, served to separate gardens 
 and fields. It was relief to find even such traces, as we then 
 beheld, of a former civilization, in this now almost untrodden 
 wilderness. But there was a melancholy feeling connected with 
 them. The activities of civilized society had ceased ; the race 
 who had thought and felt, and hoped and wished, and acted 
 there, had passed away the dust of ages had covered them ; 
 and now, these ruins told forth a humbling tale amidst the 
 silence of the Desert. 
 
 The most prominent objects, as seen at a distance, were 
 two elevations having the appearance of the fortresses of an 
 acropolis. The southern base and slope of the hill are 
 covered with the prostrated ruins of buildings, of hewn stone, 
 amongst which are several columns and entablatures. On the 
 summit, towards the west, are the remains of a Greek Church, 
 the walls of which are, in many parts, erect, and also of hewn 
 stone. Towards the east, are the ruins of a fortress, in the 
 form of a parallelogram, and of a similar material. No 
 inscriptions are any where to be found. Wells and cisterns; 
 now dry, are seen among the ruins, one of which is cut to a great
 
 EBODAH WADEY ER RUHAIBEH. 209 
 
 depth in the solid rock. It was formerly arched over, but 
 the arching is now broken through. At the foot of the 
 hill, and separated by a broad ravine, is another deep well, 
 finished with an arch above, of good solid masonry. These 
 ruins altogether give proof of ancient importance and great 
 strength. The Church, from its apparent magnitude, suggests 
 that the Christian population must once have been large, 
 though Eboda is no where mentioned in history as an 
 episcopal city. 1 Here, then, the cross of the Redeemer was 
 once planted; and here perhaps souls have, in days gone by, 
 beheld by faith the Son of God, and obtained "redemption 
 through his blood." But there is now no living lip to 
 proclaim the truth as it is in Jesus; and the wandering 
 Bedawee of the Desert loiters here with his camel, and 
 wonders what manner of stones are these. It is a common 
 belief among the Arabs, that hidden treasures of great value 
 are yet existing in these scenes of desolation and decay. 
 
 While we were occupied with these ruins, the caravan 
 proceeded by a less circuitous route; and in order to rejoin 
 it, we were obliged to make a cut across a part of the 
 Desert, too uneven and toilsome for the baggage camels. 
 As we advanced, we found additional traces of walls, 
 which had once separated gardens or fields. Frequent 
 patches of rude cultivation appeared; but we met with 
 no Arab encampments. At about half-past ten we reached 
 Wadey er Kuhaibeh, where we found more ruins. Just 
 on the left of the camel-way, is an arched building with a 
 dome propably the remains of a Mahommedan Santon's 
 tomb. On ascending the brow of the hill beyond it, the 
 extensive ruins of an ancient city, tumbled together as 
 if overthrown by an earthquake, presented themselves. Many 
 acres are covered with them. The shapes of houses, and the 
 forms of streets, may still, though with some difficulty, be 
 traced. There are the probable remains of a Christian Church, 
 
 See Dr. Robinson, Vol. I. pp. 285287. 
 
 P
 
 210 REHOBOTII WADEY EL KIIALUSEII. 
 
 but no inscriptions of any kind. Dr. Robinson thinks it 
 must have been a city, with a population of at least twelve or 
 fifteen thousand inhabitants. The traces of the mason's chisel 
 are yet visible on the surface of some of the stones but the 
 whole scene is one of impressive desolation. There is great 
 difficulty in the attempt to connect these ruins with any 
 ancient record ; though it has been remarked that the Arabic 
 name of the Wadey in which they are found, C&v-RuhaibehJ, 
 suggests the Hebrew name Rehoboth, one of Isaac's wells, in 
 the vicinity of Gerah. 1 
 
 During our afternoon march, the aspect of the Desert 
 underwent a total change. Instead of the bare, arid and 
 stony surface, with which we had been so long familiar, we 
 passed over beautifully sloping hills of sand, sprinkled with 
 myriads of small white snail shells, and in many places thickly 
 studded with a kind of broom called Jietem, and other hardy 
 plants. The Desert seemed to put on a smile, as the sun 
 illuminated the fresh green which garnished its varied 
 surface. In many parts, it assumed the appearance of a wild 
 English common, of boundless extent. In the course of our 
 ride we passed an Arab burial-place, in which was a 
 sort of cairn, or rugged heap of stones irregularly thrown 
 together. It is the tomb of Sheikh El-'Amry, whose 
 name the Arabs always mention with a curse; and many 
 shew their hatred of it by spitting on the tomb as they pass. 
 There is a legend, or superstition, connected with the 
 memory of this personage, the particulars of which I could 
 not collect. About two hours after sunset, we were delight- 
 fully encamped in Wadey el Khaluseh a broad, open plain, 
 skirted by bold and beautiful hills, clothed with shrubs and 
 herbage. As I walked out from the tent in the evening, 
 bright with moonlight, I was pleased at seeing two or three 
 of the camels, which had strayed up to some of the heights 
 around us, presenting their peculiar and graceful outlines in 
 
 1 Genesis xxvi. 22. See Dr. Robinson, Vol. I. p. 290, 291 .
 
 ELUSA. 
 
 strong relief upon the background of a grey, cloudless sky. 
 There they stood, as motionless as statues; impressing the 
 mind deeply with a sense of the orientalism of the whole 
 scene ; while below and around were the watch fires of the 
 Arabs, exhibiting, in fine chiaro-scuro, their picturesque 
 persons and costumes while gathered together in groups. 
 The hope that another day's march would bring us up to the 
 borders of Canaan, occupied my mind so much as to make 
 me almost sleepless with anticipation. 
 
 By six o'clock on the following morning, we were in motion 
 again; and on the right of our encampment, saw, by the 
 morning's light, the ruins of what Dr. Robinson believes, on 
 probable grounds, to be the ancient Elusa, the name of which 
 is easily traceable in that of the valley which they overlook 
 Wadey el Khaluseh, We did not stay to explore these 
 remains, being anxious to press onwards with as little delay 
 as possible. There is no doubt that the ancient Elusa lay 
 without the borders of Canaan. It is mentioned by Ptolemy, 
 in the first half of the second century, among the cities 
 of Idumea, west of the Dead Sea. It was an episcopal city ; 
 although chiefly inhabited by Heathens, connected with the 
 Saracens of the adjacent deserts. Jerome relates that in his 
 time it was semi-barbarous. 1 
 
 Pursuing our morning route over the graceful slopes 
 of sand hills, thickly covered with the Retem and other 
 plants and shrubs which frequently grow up to the height 
 of small forest clumps, I could sometimes almost so far 
 forget that I was in the Desert, as to look for a village spire, 
 after the manner of England, peeping forth from the forest-like 
 scenery through which we were passing. The shade afforded 
 by the tall and spreading branches of the Retem, is very 
 cheering and refreshing ; and often quite enough to protect 
 against the hottest sunbeams. It is most probable that 
 
 See Dr. Robinson, Vol. I. p. 297, 298.
 
 THE RETEM THE BORDERS OF CANAAN. 
 
 under the shade of this very shrub, 1 the prophet Elijah lay 
 down and slept, and requested for himself that he might die. 
 And, certainly, it was in this wilderness a day's journey 
 from Beersheba, that that event of his life occurred, and 
 where the Angel touched him, and said unto him "Arise and 
 eat ;" and he looked, and behold there was a cake baken on 
 the coals (I suppose as the Arabs now bake their bread), and 
 a cruse of water at his head. 
 
 At about ten o'clock, a still further change was visible in 
 the whole extent of the country about us. Behind, lay the 
 last characteristics of the Desert, over which we had passed : 
 while before, and on either side, were beautifully swelling 
 hills, covered with a thin and delicate grass not green, but 
 yellow almost as gold, and presenting a rich and beautiful 
 tinting as the sun shone down upon it. Not a tree not a 
 shrub was to be seen; but an unbroken and interminable 
 range of pasturage, capable, in moist seasons, of affording 
 sustenance to innumerable flocks. Here and there were 
 small parties of Arabs, with numbers of sheep and goats ; and, 
 now and then, a tent or two, of black camel-hair cloth, 
 where was carried on a manufacture, in rudely-constructed 
 looms, of the material of which the outer Arab garments are 
 made. The Arabs salaamed us as we passed. 
 
 Our Desert route was now at an end we were within the 
 borders of Canaan ! 
 
 How sweet and balmy was the air, and how charming the 
 prospect which then lay before us the land flowing with 
 milk and honey the mountains of Judah, in graceful outline 
 
 1 See 1 Kings xix. 4 6. The Hebrew word, which our translators have 
 rendered "Juniper tree," is, as to its radical letters, the same as the Arabic 
 Retem the name of the umbrageous shrub so common in this part of the 
 Desert, which borders upon Canaan.
 
 BIR-ES-SEBA BEERSHEBA. 213 
 
 upon the east and north-eastern horizon. I cannot say that 
 any strong emotion possessed my mind, on being told that 
 I was no longer a wanderer in " the great and terrible 
 wilderness," but in the land of Canaan, and in sight of the 
 mountains of Judah ; but certainly my heart swelled with a 
 sense of unutterable gratitude to my heavenly Father, who 
 had led me thus far in safety, amidst many perils along my 
 wearisome and difficult way. 
 
 About another hour's brisk travelling brought us to a 
 smooth grassy spot, where the slopes of many hills met, 
 and in which were gathered large flocks of sheep and 
 goats mingled together, after the manner of patriarchal times. 
 Our tents had been sent on, and were pitched ready to receive 
 us. How delightfully inviting were those primitive habitations, 
 in a land so smooth and so smiling as that on which we had 
 entered. 
 
 At a short distance from the encampment were two wells ; 
 and at the principal one, a number of shepherds employed 
 in drawing water, with long ropes having loose buckets, 
 made of skins, attached to them. They were singing their 
 dreamy song as they toiled at their occupation ; and the thirsty 
 flocks drew near, by turns, and drank freely of the water, 
 poured out into rude troughs, formed of large blocks of stone, 
 which had doubtless been in use for many a century. 
 
 "What wells are these?" 
 
 " Bir-es-Seba" said our Arabs. 
 
 The Arabic name carried with it a familiar sound. The 
 days of Abraham were at once associated with it. These are, 
 no doubt, the ancient wells of Beersheba. 
 
 And where is Abraham? We might almost 
 
 have been induced to forget that ages had rolled by since 
 here, as a shepherd, he sat by the well and tended his flocks ; 
 and might have looked for his patriarchal form amidst the 
 shepherds of a more recent age.
 
 214 BEERSHEBA. 
 
 I drank of the wells of Beersheba. The water was fresh 
 and pleasant, though it had a slight earthy flavour. The 
 mouths of the wells are nearly even with the surface of the 
 ground, and protected by a firm and solid curbstone all 
 round, in which deep grooves have been worn by the friction 
 of the ropes used in drawing water. 
 
 On the north side of the wells, ascending a range of low 
 sloping hills, are to be seen the remains of human habitations; 
 but nothing is left to give any idea of their extent or 
 character. Fragments of pottery are scattered in all directions 
 among the ruins. Both Eusebius and Jerome have spoken 
 of a place of habitation on this "spot, and designated it as a 
 large village, with a Roman garrison. 
 
 The geographical relation of Bir-es-Seba, is such as to leave 
 but little doubt that it is the Beersheba of scripture, where 
 Abraham dug a well 1 (most probably one of those which we had 
 visited) ; where he and Isaac and Jacob often dwelt, and from 
 whence the Patriarch, with his only son Isaac, went up to 
 Mount Moriah, for the purpose of offering up a sacrifice that 
 was typical of a higher and a better : 2 the very spot from which 
 Jacob fled to Padan-ararn, with his brother Esau's birthright 
 and blessing; 3 and where also he sacrificed to Jehovah on 
 going forth to Joseph in Egypt. 4 The whole of Canaan now 
 lay before us, from Beersheba even to Dan. 
 
 It was on the ninth day after our departure from Akabah 
 that we reached Dhaheriyeh, having passed over a rich 
 grazing country, very similar to that round about Beersheba, 
 till within about the last two hours, when we entered upon 
 a pass running between limestone hills, sometimes rising and 
 projecting with considerable boldness, and productive in 
 various kinds of rock-plants. We were often cheered by 
 the song of skylarks, bounding up into the clear expanse 
 
 1 Gen. xxi. 30, 31. * Gen. xxii. 119. 
 
 * Gen. xxviii. 2 10. 4 Gen. xlvi. 1.
 
 DHAHERIYEH AGRICULTURAL PURSUITS. 215 
 
 with their "most eloquent music." The morning was balmy 
 and refreshing. While I was riding in advance of the 
 party, a hyena crossed my path the only wild beast I had 
 seen during my wanderings. He was moving at a slow pace ; 
 but soon trotted up one of the mountain sides, out of the 
 reach of Bedaween guns. 
 
 Dhaheriyeh occupies a prominent site on a hill, and is 
 visible at a considerable distance; but it has an aspect 
 of poverty and wretchedness. It consists of hovels built of mud 
 and stone. Remains of fortification, and, as we judged, of a 
 church also, are still to be seen. Some have imagined 
 that Dhaheriyeh was one of the line of small fortresses 
 which were built along the southern boundary of Palestine. 
 However squalid in appearance, there yet seems to be 
 considerable wealth in herds and camels. 
 
 We pitched our tents under some olive trees, at the distance 
 of a few hundred yards from the walls, near extensive threshing 
 floors covered with grain, and were soon surrounded by a 
 number of the inhabitants, who came forth to reconnoitre 
 the European travellers. The arrival of a caravan from the 
 Desert, is an event for the good people of Dhaheriyeh. They 
 behaved with civility, though eyes, ears every faculty seemed 
 taxed to the utmost in the service of their curiosity. Some 
 stood in groups talking loudly altogether ; others sat in the 
 dust smoking their long pipes, and looking on in silence. The 
 inhabitants are all shepherds and agriculturists. We walked 
 round to see their manner of cultivating grain, tobacco, and 
 cucumbers. The tobacco was in bloom. When seen in 
 considerable quantities in that state, it presents a beautiful 
 appearance. The tillage is very rude and unscientific. 
 The wheat-produce is thin and poor. They were busily 
 employed on their threshing floors, which are wide open 
 spaces on the surface of a table-rock of limestone. The 
 grain is beaten out by the treading of oxen yoked together. 
 These animals are not muzzled while treading out the corn, 
 but are allowed to pick up their morsel when they choose to
 
 216 DHAHERIYEH. 
 
 do so. As a prevalent oriental custom, which we had noticed 
 in Egypt, and afterwards had frequent occasion for observing 
 in Syria, we felt it to be the continuation of a practice enjoined 
 and recognized in Scripture, from an early period. 1 I 
 presume that but little change has taken place in the pastoral 
 habits of the people, since Abraham and his family dwelt in 
 the land. We saw numerous large flocks, both of sheep and 
 goats ; and considerable herds of small and beautifully formed 
 neat cattle. We obtained delicious milk a pleasant change 
 after the privations incident to the Desert. From the heights 
 we could not obtain any extensive view, but only a succession 
 of swelling hills. Fig and olive trees are scattered round 
 about ; but " the time of figs was not yet." 
 
 As Dhaheriyeh was the extreme point to which our Sinaite 
 Arabs could escort us, we sent for the Sheikh el Beled 
 (Sheikh of the village), and make our bargain with him for 
 camels, horses, and asses, to take us on to Jerusalem. As our 
 Desert stores were nearly all consumed, we required only a 
 much reduced establishment to bring us on to the Holy City. 
 The Arabs of Dhaheriyeh had none of the wild peculiarities 
 of the Bedaween, and seemed to want much of their free 
 buoyancy of spirit, though they are quite as noisy. 
 
 As we resolved to leave Dhaheriyeh early on the following 
 morning, it was needful that all our arrangements should be 
 made before we slept. . One matter really caused me some 
 regret it was the necessity of bidding farewell to the faithful 
 and kind-hearted Bedaween, who had been our guides and 
 companions over many a dreary route, and amidst many 
 surrounding dangers. A hearty cordiality had grown up 
 amongst us. They had rendered us the most willing and 
 cheerful service ; and I felt a sadness stealing over my heart, 
 as they gathered together their camels, in preparation for 
 a short evening march towards the Desert, for the purpose 
 
 1 Dcut. xxv. 4. " Thou shalt not muzzle the ox when he treadeth out the 
 corn." Sec also 1 Cor. ix. 9. 1 Tim. v. 18.
 
 DISMISSAL OF THE BEDAWEEN. 217 
 
 of retracing their steps to their tents in the peninsula of 
 Mount Sinai. I think we were all unwilling to part. As a 
 Christian and a Christian minister, I could but think how 
 sad it was that these poor Heathen should go back to their 
 tents and their wild Desert habits, without carrying with them 
 truths that might bear upon the eternal interests of their 
 souls. But what could we do ? We had no means of speaking 
 to them on such topics. 
 
 We gathered the poor fellows about us ; and in addition 
 to the amount of the contract with Jumar, gave him a 
 backsheech of one hundred piastres, and ten to each of the 
 rest, with the addition of a few shawls for turbans, and a 
 tarbouch or two. These small rewards were received with 
 smiling satisfaction, and we stood with them as friends among 
 friends. 
 
 The hour of departure arrived. Their camels were all 
 loaded. We gave out a few rations of tobacco and coffee, as 
 a last present ; when, one by one, they made their adieus ; 
 and last of all, Jumar kissed me solemnly on both cheeks 
 and on ray forehead and gave me his final salaam. They 
 were soon in motion; and winding their slow way by the 
 route through which we had arrived, our tried friends of the 
 Desert were soon lost to us. My heart warms towards 
 these interesting people as I write. Few things in travel 
 would give me more pleasure than to be en route with them 
 again; and I think many an eye would sparkle were they 
 to see us once more in their Desert-home, and mounted on 
 their camels. 

 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 PALESTINE; 
 
 FROM DHAHERIYEH TO JERUSALEM. 
 
 PALESTINE HEBRON VALLEY OF ESHCOL MACHPELAH JEWISH PILGRIMS 
 
 ROAD TO BETHLEHEM BETHLEHEM CHAPEL OF THE NATIVITY 
 
 BETHLEHEM VILLAGE OF THE SHEPHERDS COSTUME, ETC. DEPARTURE 
 
 FROM BETHLEHEM TOMB OF RACHEL JERUSALEM ARRIVAL AT THE 
 
 LATIN CONVENT, JERUSALEM. 
 
 AND have my feet really pressed the rocks and valleys of 
 Judea ? And have these eyes gazed on the venerated scenes 
 of Palestine the allotments of the tribes the inheritance, 
 the forfeited inheritance of God's ancient people Israel, 
 once the glory of all lands, but now the abode of desolation ? 
 Have I, indeed, been a privileged wanderer in the land 
 of prophetic announcement of miracle and wonder the land 
 in which prophecy is yet to be gloriously fulfilled as certainly 
 as it has been, and in which the consummation and triumph 
 of gospel glory shall be manifested? My heart kindles at 
 the recollection, and memory brings forth her deposits to 
 confirm the sense of reality. But, I feel while now mentally 
 retracing my steps, how feeble are the efforts of the pen, to 
 make known to others, the vividness of impression made on 
 my mind and heart by the presence of localities such as these. 
 The emotion with which I recollect, is far more intense than 
 that with which I felt, amidst the toils of travel, and the 
 constant succession of new objects of interest.
 
 220 PALESTINE. 
 
 Small as is the territory of Palestine, geographically 
 speaking, yet there is no spot on the face of the earth, with 
 which can be associated so various and vast an accumulation 
 of historical interest, beginning from the time when Jehovah 
 spake to Abram, and said "Get thee out from thy country, 
 and from thy kindred, and from thy father's house, unto a 
 land that I will shew thee : and I will make of thee a great 
 nation, and I will bless thee, and make thy name great ; and 
 thou shalt be a blessing : and I v^ll bless them that bless 
 thee, and curse him that curseth thee ; and in thee shall all 
 families of the earth be blessed." 1 Whether we contemplate 
 the establishment of Israel in the land of promise, and the 
 might with which, in the strength of the Lord, they trod 
 down their enemies under their feet; whether we reflect 
 upon Israel and her history, when the Lord himself was their 
 king, and they yielded to his paternal theocracy; whether 
 we ponder over the splendours of the regal sway under 
 which God, in compliance with their desire, saw good to 
 place them ; whether we contemplate the ruin which followed 
 on their apostacy, and associate with it an idea of the might, 
 and then the nothingness of those powers which God raised 
 up as instruments of his righteous judgments towards a 
 rebellious people ; whether we think of the glory which was 
 once so great, and of the desolation which remains to this 
 day Palestine is the wondrous centre-point to which every 
 recollection pours its overwhelming tribute. And while 
 humbled and depressed under a sense of our universal fall in 
 the transgression of the first Adam, and turning to the page 
 which reveals the fulness of divine mercy and love, as 
 manifested in the greatest of all gifts the gift of God's dear 
 Son, we turn our eyes to the land of Palestine all our 
 interest centres there ; for there prophecy had its accomplish- 
 ment, and promise its fulfilment there was set forth the 
 great mystery of godliness God manifest in the flesh there 
 mercy and truth met together there righteousness and peace 
 kissed each other there shone forth the tenderness of the 
 
 1 Gen. xii. 13.
 
 PALESTINE. 
 
 Father's love there was heard the hopeful choralsong of Glory 
 to God in the highest, and in earth peace, good will towards 
 man there was accomplished the wondrous sacrifice which 
 makes salvation possible, and eternal glory sure; and from 
 thence went forth to the distant ends of the earth, the glorious 
 truth on which every hope of man depends, that " God was 
 in Christ, reconciling the world unto himself, not imputing 
 their trespasses unto them." And though the brightness 
 of gospel light has faded there though it glimmers only 
 amidst the thick shades of an apostate church, and from the 
 corruptions of a decayed church, savouring too much of the 
 blindness and idolatry of Rome though Israel too is banished, 
 and the few stragglers of their race there drag on their days 
 in poverty and oppression ; though fruitful valleys are barren ; 
 though vine and olive crowned hills now yield an unwilling 
 and scanty subsistence to the degraded population that sigh 
 among them ; yet Palestine is the centre of all interest still, 
 the spot to which the hopeful Christian looks while praying 
 over the page of prophecy ; the scene on which hard-hearted 
 Israel hopes that Messiah shall yet come, to restore royal dignity 
 and temporal glory upon a chosen and still beloved people. 
 
 It was in the early morning of the thirteenth of June, when 
 we resumed the journey, and turned our steps towards 
 Hebron. 1 The "hill country" of Judah then lay before us. 
 Our route was by a continuous valley between bold limestone 
 rocks of moderate height, sometimes entirely clothed, and at 
 others thinly scattered over with the prickly oak, pines, and 
 other trees and shrubs less familiar to us. Small cultivated 
 spots were fenced off with low stone walls, similar to those we 
 had seen on the borders of the Desert. As we proceeded, my 
 mind became more and more assured of the fact, that this 
 ancient route trodden by the feet of men in all ages of the 
 world's history the main and direct road from Beersheba to 
 Bethlehem, and thence to Jerusalem, must have been that by 
 
 1 The Arabic name of which is El Khalil the Friend. It is not improbable 
 that this name is associated with Abraham, "the friend of God."
 
 222 HEBRON. 
 
 which the child Jesus and his virgin mother, with Joseph, 
 took their flight from Bethlehem, when the angel of the Lord 
 had said to Joseph, in a dream, "Arise, and take the young 
 child and his mother, and flee into Egypt, and be thou there 
 until I bring thce word ; for Herod will seek the young child 
 to destroy him." 1 The latter part of the journey lay over the 
 brows of several hills in succession, many parts of which 
 were steep and difficult, and frequently devoid of all 
 herbage. At length, after about four hours steady travelling, 
 our eyes first rested on the city of Hebron, built upon 
 the slope of a hill; its grey stone buildings having roofs 
 constructed in domes, and bearing an aspect of neatness and 
 cleanliness as seen at a distance. Between us and the city 
 lay an extensive plain, stretching out to the right and left, 
 towards which we descended by a steep pass, worn in the 
 rock by the traffic of ages. On the right were abundant 
 olive grounds ; and on the left, a luxuriant vineyard. 
 The clusters of fruit were just in the process of formation, 
 and by their magnitude gave promise of rich abundance. 
 The vineyard is fenced oflf with a stone wall, and in the 
 midst is a tower a watch-tower according to the ancient 
 custom. 2 This we noticed also in most of the vineyards 
 which we saw afterwards. "We pitched our tents under the 
 shade of some fine olive trees; and while enjoying our rest, 
 looked forth upon Hebron, and the plain of Mamre which 
 lay before us. 3 Our stay in the neighbourhood of this 
 
 1 Matt. ii. 13. 2 Isaiah v. 2 ; Matt. xxi. 33. 
 
 8 I am inclined to think that "Mamre" included a considerable district 
 around Hebron ; though we are accustomed to think of it as a plain lying in 
 the midst of bold hills. I am persuaded the hills themselves are included in the 
 term. It is said of Abraham, that he dwelt in the "plain" (though some critics 
 would render it "the oaks or terebinth trees") of Mamie, which is in Hebron. 
 (Gen. xiii. 18.) There is no doubt then, that the plain (if such is the proper 
 rendering), in which we were encamped, was that plain. In Gen. xxiii. 19; 
 xxxv. 27 ; xlix. 30 ; 1. 13, " Mamre " is used alone without any mention of the 
 plain. There is clearly a distinction in this. From the plain of Mamre, Abraham 
 could not have looked towards Sodom and Gomorrah, so as to see the smoke 
 of the country going up as the smoke of a furnace (see Gen. xix. 28) ; but from 
 the heights on the south -cast of Hebron looking towards the east, I think he 
 could easily have seen those prook of Divine vengeance.
 
 HEBRON. 
 
 venerable city was only for a few hours, and admitted 
 of but a hasty visit within its walls. Though so promising 
 on the approach, yet its interior is miserably filthy and 
 wretched. The bazaars are close and dark; and for the 
 most part, the inhabitants appear poor and gloomy. In the 
 midst of the plain of Mamre is a large threshing floor, on 
 which both oxen and men were employed as at Dhaheriyeh. 
 I brought with me a few grains of the wheat grown on this 
 distinguished spot. The mosque within the city of Hebron, 
 is said to have been built over the cave of Machpelah, 
 the burial-place of Abraham and Sarah of Isaac, Jacob, 
 Rebecca, and Leah. Over this spot the Moslems keep a 
 jealous watch. I did not enter the mosque : nor is it an easy 
 matter to do so, for either Jews or Christians. It is delightful, 
 indeed, while writing these pages, to recollect it was at 
 Hebron that Abraham, and other distinguished men of the 
 patriarchal age, dwelt and enjoyed peculiar communion with 
 God ; that there God " brought Abraham forth abroad, and 
 said, look toward heaven, and tell the stars if thou be able to 
 number them; so shall thy seed be;" 1 that there David once 
 wandered over the hills, a shepherd boy ; and after the death 
 of Saul was there anointed king, and took up his royal 
 residence for seven years ; and near at hand was the pool over 
 which he hanged up the murderers of Ishbosheth. 2 It is more 
 than probable, that there too, he the sweet lyrist of Israel, 
 composed some of those psalms to the spirit of which the 
 Church of God, in all ages, has made its heartfelt response. 
 
 I should gladly have lingered about Hebron ; but it was 
 needful to proceed ; and about two hours before sunset, we 
 were again on our way. The route was stony and wearisome ; 
 but on each side there was a succession of rich vineyards, 
 olive grounds, and large plantations of fig, mulberry, walnut, 
 apricot, and pomegranate trees, carefully fenced with high 
 stone walls, of rough but solid workmanship. A tower was 
 to be seen in each. I have but little hesitation in believing, 
 
 1 Genesis xv. 5. 2 2 Samuel iv. 12.
 
 VALLEY OF ESHCOL MACHPELAH. 
 
 that hereabouts perhaps this rich and still luxuriant valley, 
 is the Eschol of scripture, whence the spies brought back 
 with them to Kadcsh the rich proofs of the fruitfulness of the 
 promised land. 1 
 
 After about two hours and a half, we reached a wide, open 
 country, flanked by bold hills on either side, called Ed-Dirweh, 
 where we resolved to encamp for the night. There was an 
 abundant fountain near at hand, which kept a constant 
 supply of delicious water in a large stone trough, at which 
 were Arabs watering their horses and camels. While 
 getting ready for encamping, we explored a considerable ruin, 
 having somewhat the appearance of a Christian Church, 
 standing but a little distance from the fountain ; and thence 
 we went to examine some sepulchral excavations made in the 
 face of a rock, which had been cut down perpendicularly. 
 The situation of the rock was at the end of the plain or 
 field in which we halted, nearest to Hebron. The excavations 
 consist of chambers (after the manner of Egyptian tombs), 
 of about twelve feet square, in which are still sarcophagi 
 of hewn stone. Not having been disposed to give too great 
 credence to the Mahommedan claim to possess the burial- 
 place of Abraham and his family, under the walls of the great 
 mosque in the present city of Hebron, the thought occurred 
 to our minds, that after all, this spot might have been 
 the very field which Abraham bought as a burial-place 
 of Ephron the Hittite. This field is described as being, not in 
 Hebron, but in Machpelah before Mamre, 2 and the cave is 
 said to be at the end of the field. Though the Empress 
 Helena built a Christian church over the spot then said to be 
 the place of patriarchal sepulture ; and though the mosque 
 of Hebron now occupies the site of that church yet I do not 
 see any thing conclusive on the subject, arising from such 
 circumstances. Whether or not Ed-Dirweh is the field in 
 question, certainly the tombs are very curious, and probably 
 of patriarchal antiquity. 
 
 1 Numbers xiii. 2224. 2 See Genesis xxiii. 9, 17, 19.
 
 JEWISH PILGRIMS ROAD TO BETHLEHEM. 225 
 
 While preparing for our journey early on the following 
 morning, a party of Jewish pilgrims were wending their 
 way towards the Holy City, and passed our encampment. 
 Some were on foot, some mounted on asses, and all appeared 
 miserably poor. It was a stirring sight, to see these aliens from 
 their own birthright, seeking the hallowed spot for which the 
 Jewish heart sighs and pines. We exchanged salutations with 
 them as they passed ; and at a little before seven o'clock were 
 on our march. Our next resting place was to be, not in tents 
 by the weary way side, but in Bethlehem, the city of David 
 not the least among the princes of Juda, though little among 
 its thousands ; the birth-place of the Son of God, the ruler in 
 Israel, whose goings forth have been of old, from everlasting. 1 
 The prospect of reaching Bethlehem on that day, checked 
 almost every thought and feeling but that of gratitude 
 and adoring love to my heavenly Father, who had mercifully 
 brought me on thus far. 
 
 The hills, as we passed along between them, bore evident 
 and abundant traces of ancient fruitfulness, having been 
 cut in terraces, on which a suitable depth of soil was 
 gathered with great labour, where vines and olives had 
 been cultivated apparently up to the very summits of the 
 hills. On either side was a slender pasturage for cattle, and 
 fields with scanty crops of wheat and barley, interspersed with 
 clumps of the prickly oak and other shrubs. In some parts, the 
 fields were giving up their slight produce to the husbandmen; 
 and I could but think that in some such scene as this, in 
 the neighbourhood of Bethlehem, and at such a season of the 
 year, the sweet spirit of the tender-hearted Ruth found favour 
 in the sight of Boaz, when he said "Hearest thou not my 
 daughter ; Go not to glean in another field, neither go from 
 hence, but abide here fast by my maidens." 2 Never was a 
 more touching story of its kind, than that of Ruth ; and in this 
 place I felt the loveliness of it. 
 
 1 Micah v. 2. Matthew ii. 6. 2 Ruth ii. 8. 
 
 Q
 
 226 ROAD TO BETHLEHEM. 
 
 Passing the pools of Solomon, without staying to make any 
 very careful examination of them, we pursued our way over a 
 rugged road, shut in on both sides by hills, sometimes quite 
 bare, and at others covered with low prickly shrubs and 
 slender herbage, when at length, an abrupt bending of the 
 pass gave us the first distant glimpse of the object of our 
 desire BETHLEHEM,' which soon, however, disappeared in 
 the windings of our toilsome path. We passed on slowly till 
 the country fairly opened before us ; and, crossing a somewhat 
 level plain, began to ascend the rocky path by which the 
 elevated site of Bethlehem is approached ; and, looking back 
 and around me, it was delightful to think that over these hills 
 and plains of his birth-place, the royal shepherd boy of Israel, 
 the princely David, had wandered with his flocks, and that 
 with every peak and slope his eye had been familiar. 
 
 The city occupies a commanding position, on the northern 
 brow of a hill looking over towards the region of Moab. The 
 substance of the hill is limestone, and it is terraced in all 
 directions, and planted with fine healthy olive and fig trees. 
 The aspect of Bethlehem itself is poor. Its buildings are in the 
 usual style, square and rude, and finished with small domes. 
 The winding path of ascent is in several places toilsome and 
 difficult, and of chalky whiteness. As we approached the 
 gate, we met several of the women of Bethlehem coming out 
 to the well, 2 bearing their earthen vessels on their heads, 
 to draw water. Their complexions were almost like those 
 of Europeans, when contrasted with sunburnt Egyptians and 
 Arabs, with whom we had been so long familiarized ; and their 
 figures were easy and graceful, as their flowing drapery cast 
 its long folds about them. It is a saddening thought, while 
 entering within the walls of Bethlehem, that the crescent 
 of Mahomet gleams over the spot where the wondrous star 
 
 1 The Arab name is Beit-Lahm. 
 
 J The situation of the present well of Bethlehem seems to accord with the 
 description in 1 Chron. xi. 17, of that well from which David desired to be 
 refreshed, when, weary and exhausted, he cried " Oh that one would give me 
 drink of the water of the well of Bethlehem, that is at the gate."
 
 BETHLEHEM. 227 
 
 announced the humbled presence of the incarnate God ; and 
 that Christianity is there but a tolerated, a permitted, a 
 despised thing. The greater proportion, however, of the 
 present population of Bethlehem are nominally Christian. 1 
 Oh ! that a pure protestant faith could be there proclaimed 
 and established; and that the darkness of a debased and 
 degrading system could be chased awey for ever. 
 
 Having set our feet within the gate of this venerated city, 
 we pursued our way along the main street, which was some- 
 times steep, and always narrow, gloomy, and dirty ; and as 
 we passed, many a graceful Syrian, and swarthy Bedawee 
 glanced upon us with an air of curiosity and inquiry. Every 
 man was armed ; and such is now the case throughout Syria. 
 Had we not been already well acquainted with such things, 
 the appearance of the inhabitants of Bethlehem would 
 have been startling at first. We soon reached the Latin 
 Convent, which was to be our place of abode during our 
 short sojourn ; for here, as in other parts of Palestine, for want 
 of more suitable means of accommodation, the traveller has 
 a choice between his tent and the walls of a convent. 
 Of the two, the latter is certainly more safe and quiet. The 
 convent occupies an extreme part of the site of the city, 
 towards the east ; and is said to have been erected by the 
 Empress Helena, over the spot on which our blessed Saviour 
 was born; she having previously swept away a heathen 
 temple, built in the time of Adrian, in contempt of Christianity. 
 Externally, it has less the appearance of an ecclesiastical, than 
 of a defensive edifice. Its bold buttresses and small grated 
 
 1 It is not a little singular, that this circumstance arose from the act of 
 Ibrahim Pasha, a Musselman. The hostilities, which a few years since 
 existed between him and the Sultan, led to a partial destruction of the city, the 
 ruinous traces of which are still visible. The hardihood of the Arabs induced 
 Ibrahim to treat them with the greatest severity. On his victorious return, after 
 driving the Sultan's forces out of Syria he put the Arab population to flight 
 and to the sword, but spared the Christians; because, as he said, they had been 
 guilty of no offence.
 
 228 HETHLEHEM. 
 
 windows betoken a great regard to general security, while 
 its low and narrow portal seems intended to prevent the 
 once daring custom of the Arabs, of riding into the interior 
 of religious houses, for the purpose of violence and spoliation. 
 The whole structure is of extreme solidity; and appears 
 capable of resisting all modes of assault short of a vigorous 
 cannonade. 
 
 On our arrival we were shewn into a large reception room, 
 well lighted, and fitted up partly after the oriental manner, 
 with carpeted dewans. Two or three monks, of the Franciscan 
 order, soon made their appearance, and tendered us every 
 courteous civility; and it was not long ere the Superior 
 himself came to welcome us to our new abode. Shortly 
 after noon, we were served with a homely, but substantial 
 meal, of rice-soup, boiled meat, an omelet, and several other 
 small matters, with a bottle of the poor sour white wine 
 of Palestine, compared with which, the sweet water of the 
 well of Bethlehem was a distinguished luxury. 
 
 Having taken our refreshment, we were conducted by one 
 of the monks to the roof of the monastery, in order to enjoy 
 the extensive view which it affords of spots endeared to the 
 heart of the Christian. In the distance, eastward, are the 
 mountains of Moab and the plains of Jordan ; while southward, 
 stands the hill of Tekoah, from which the surrounding wilder- 
 ness is said to take its name familiar as the scene of the 
 pastoral life of the prophet Amos. 1 Beyond, and rather more 
 towards the east, lies the wilderness of Engedi, to which David 
 retreated for the purpose of concealing himself against the 
 pursuit of Saul, 2 and where the allied army of the Ammonites, 
 Moabites, and others encamped, when they came forth against 
 Jehoshaphat ; s and nearer at hand a little more to the south, 
 is seen the spot which tradition has assigned as that wherein 
 there were " shepherds abiding in the field, keeping watch 
 
 1 Amos i. 1. 1 Samuel xxili. 29. 2 Chronicles xx. 2.
 
 BETHLEHEM. 
 
 over their flock by night;" when "the angel of the Lord 
 came upon them, and the glory of the Lord shone round 
 about them, and they were sore afraid. And the angel said 
 unto them, fear not: for behold I bring you good tidings 
 of great joy which shall be to all people." Many of the 
 surrounding hills are thinly clothed with fig and olive trees, 
 and here and there were traces of corn-growth, among which 
 the husbandmen were employed in gathering the small 
 bounty of God. At the more distant parts of the picture, a 
 brown and sterile appearance pervaded the surface both 
 of hill and plain, betokening that the hand of God was 
 withdrawn, for a season, from that once luxuriantly productive 
 soil. The intense heat and glare of the sun soon induced 
 us to make our retreat to the interior, where we spent 
 a short time in visiting the church, and the spots 
 which have been assigned as scenes of the most august 
 transactions of gospel history. The church supposed to be 
 as ancient as the early part of the fourth century, is solid 
 and spacious, supported on columns of granite. And though 
 the convent and church properly belong to the Latins, 
 yet Greeks and Armenians have separate portions of both 
 allotted for their use. On the ground-floor of the church, 
 there are but few objects of curiosity, except some paintings 
 of scripture subjects, rude and apparently very ancient. It is 
 the church underground which absorbs all interest especially 
 in minds possessing credulity enough to find the actual place 
 of the nativity amidst the paintings and gildings and lamps 
 by which a superstitious enthusiasm has disguised the humble 
 realities which it professes to venerate. When preparing 
 to descend, we each received a small lighted wax taper, the 
 approach being by a dark and narrow stair, cut, like the 
 under chapel itself, in the rock. This crypt is not much 
 more than thirty feet in length and twelve in breadth, and 
 receives no light from without, but is illuminated by a great 
 number of suspended lamps, presented by various princes 
 of Christendom. The alleged scene of the nativity of the 
 Redeemer is designated by a tawdry altar ; and, surrounded 
 by burning lamps, is a circle of marble and mosaic work, with
 
 230 BETHLEHEM CHAPEL OF THE NATIVITY, ETC. 
 
 a border of silver, indicating the precise spot in which God 
 stood forth manifest in human flesh. The silver plate has 
 the following inscription : 
 
 "Hie da Virgine Maria Jesus C/iristus natus eat." 
 
 Shall I continue this description ? or shall I declare, how sadly 
 these mere toys of popery interfered with the solemn feelings 
 I had desired to cherish in a place, which, with probability 
 enough, may be looked upon as connected with the wondrous 
 work of our redemption ? 
 
 Near the altar of the nativity, is exhibited a kind of trough, 
 formed in marble, and elevated about a foot and a half from the 
 floor ; and this is spoken of as the manger in which the infant 
 Jesus was laid, because there was no room for him in the inn. 
 In a recess, opposite, is the place where it is said the wise 
 men of the east sat, when they came to worship ; and in 
 another, is an altar representing the table on which they 
 offered their gifts. Descending still further, by a winding 
 passage of some length, we next arrived at a spot, shewn 
 as that in which Herod caused the children of Bethlehem 
 to be massacred ; and beyond it, a cave, in which Jerome is 
 said to have made his Latin translation of the Bible. A brief 
 stay was sufficient for me ; feeling, as I did, that the inward 
 contemplation of sacred localities, was far more profitable 
 and delightful, than the most ingenious devices of popery, to 
 render them meretriciously attractive. The tendency of man's 
 natural heart, is to walk by sight rather than by faith ; and 
 to this corrupt tendency, the Church of Eome ministers, in 
 all her externals. Faith says I know that Jesus, the eternal 
 Son of God, was born in Bethlehem, for the word of truth 
 declares it and this is Bethlehem. " True," says the Church 
 of Rome ; " but, lest your faith should falter, look here, look 
 there here is the exact spot of the nativity, marked by 
 a silver plate, and a Latin asseveration there is the 
 real manger, in which the mighty babe reposed." Now, 
 to my mind, all these things suggest an idea of littleness, 
 utterly beneath the regard of simple Christian faith, which
 
 BETHLEHEM CHAPEL OF THE NATIVITY, ETC. 231 
 
 walks forth, on the sacred site of Bethlehem, and, expanding 
 itself in the serene atmosphere of revelation, apart from the 
 dreamings of mere superstition, and surveying the whole 
 precincts of the now humbled city of David, inwardly affirms 
 here, on this rock, the noble current of prophecy overspread 
 its borders ; and bursting into a stream of mercy, poured 
 forth its waters of life through the Child of Mary. 
 
 A ceremony connected with the midnight mass of the 
 Romish church at Christmas, as performed in the grotto of the 
 nativity, is thus described by a member of that church 1 "At 
 midnight, at the hour of salvation, when, in all the catholic 
 churches in the world, the infant Jesus receives the homage 
 of all faithful Christians, the reverend father warden opens the 
 procession, and advances with slow step, his head bowed, and 
 reverentially carrying in his arms the infant Jesus " [or as we 
 should say, the idolatrous representation of him]. "On reaching 
 the very spot of the nativity, the deacon, with deep devotion, 
 chants the gospel. When he comes to the words, 'and 
 wrapped him in swaddling clothes,' he receives the infant 
 from the hands of the father warden, wraps him in swaddling 
 clothes, lays him in the manger, falls on his knees and 
 worships" [what? we ask]. "At that moment," continues 
 the Romish narrator, "there flashes into the soul, something 
 supernatural, I may venture to call it, judging from what I 
 have witnessed from what I myself have felt. Piety ceases 
 to find a voice to express its gratitude, its love it speaks only 
 in the melting language of the eyes, in sighs and tears." 
 
 This is sheer popery. Those who know what it is to live 
 in the habitual exercise of a kind and degree of piety which 
 results from a " something supernatural," already infused into 
 the soul by the sanctifying influences of the Holy Ghost, and 
 whose every day existence is an exemplification of the power 
 of faith, which depends not on the stimulation of the senses 
 by merely visible objects of human construction, will smile 
 
 1 Baron Geramb.
 
 BETHLEHEM, ETC. 
 
 with pitying concern, at that morbid piety which displays itself 
 in tears and sighs, amidst the childish stage-play of such a 
 scene as this. If there be anything more especially calling 
 for jealous watchfulness, in these days of heresy and innovation, 
 it is the tendency to prop up a weak faith, and to generate a 
 mawkish sensitiveness on spiritual subjects, by externals be 
 they images, symbols, or ceremonies only. 
 
 Our day at Bethlehem passed most happily; but I was 
 glad to retire early to a coarse bed, provided for me in 
 a small whitewashed cell, which doubtless had been the 
 abode of many a previous pilgrim, overlooking the convent 
 garden planted with orange and lemon trees in full fruit. 
 Perhaps I enjoyed my rude comforts the more, because 
 I had been so long an absentee from regular beds and 
 stone walls. Ought I not to be content, and more than 
 that, thought I, when I reflect, that here the child Jesus 
 my Redeemer, found no room for his reception ; and that in 
 the days of his mature and majestic manhood, he had not 
 where to lay his head. Many a solemn thought and deep 
 feeling occupied my mind, while surveying the hallowed 
 scene of the nativity ; but it was when the stillness of midnight 
 hung around me when the inmates of the convent were 
 silent, and all Bethlehem hushed in repose, that my heart 
 acknowledged its serene and grateful assurance that I, a 
 poor helpless sinner so far from home a brief sojourn er 
 in one of the holiest spots of the whole earth, derived all my 
 safety and comfort, and all my grounded hope of future and 
 eternal blessing from Him who here condescended to take 
 my nature into marvellous and mysterious unition with his 
 Godhead, that he might sympathize in its wants and its 
 infirmities, and glorify it by his triumphs. 
 
 To the east of Bethlehem not much more than a mile 
 and a half distant, is the village traditionally said to be 
 that in which the shepherds dwelt, to whom was made 
 the supernatural announcement of Messiah's birth. You 
 approach it by a steep descending road, with fig and olive
 
 BETHLEHEM VILLAGE OF THE SHEPHERDS. 233 
 
 trees scattered on every side. The soil is very white 
 and chalky. It is inhabited by Greek and Latin Christians. 
 It is miserably dilapidated, and conveys an idea of poverty 
 and wretchedness. Many of its inhabitants were engaged 
 in threshing and winnowing of corn. Passing downwards 
 from the village, a view presented itself of the spot, which 
 we had previously seen from the roof of the convent, 
 where it is said the shepherds heard that heavenly minstrelsy 
 which still sounds forth sweetly from the pages of inspiration. 1 
 It is carefully enclosed with a rough stone wall, and covered 
 with numerous olive trees of vigorous growth and considerable 
 age. In the midst of the enclosure is a small grotto-chapel, 
 to which we obtained admission. It contains a rude altar, 
 and the usual pictorial appendages. The almost level ridge, 
 in the distance eastward, is that of the mountains of Moab ; 
 between which and the nearer elevations, lies the Dead Sea, 
 whose waters are not visible from hence. This interesting 
 spot is now in the possession of the Greek church, though 
 once it belonged to the Latins. In consequence of the 
 
 1 I cannot help quoting one of the sweetest sacred lyrics of modern days, on 
 this subject: 
 
 There's music in the heav'n amid the stillness of the night, 
 While shepherds are abiding yet, to watch their fleecy care ; 
 
 The clouds are rolling rapidly, and in the bursting light, 
 To golden harps are carolling the angels bright and fair. 
 
 Oh ! listen to the choral song, which hails a Saviour's birth, 
 
 That fills those humble watchers' hearts with wonder and with love, 
 
 "Good tidings of great joyfulness to all who dwell on earth, 
 And glory in the highest be, to God enthron'd above !" 
 
 The world that had been travailing so long in pain and woe, 
 
 Hath heard amidst its guilty fears a voice which soothes to rest; 
 
 And Gud the Father's gracious face, with cloud obscured till now, 
 Shines through the image of His Son, the blessing and the blest. 
 
 With the music of the angels be the music of my heart, 
 And let the shepherds' gratitude my ev'ry power inflame ; 
 
 And with the anthems of the church, my soul, bear thou thy part, 
 For all the mercies shown to thee in Christ's redeeming name. 
 
 The Rev. T. J. Judkin.
 
 234 BETHLEHEM, ETC. 
 
 change, the latter are beginning to claim some other as the 
 actual and real scene of the angelic announcement. Alas for 
 Rome ! She generally endeavours to prove too much, and 
 often overshoots her mark. 
 
 I am much inclined to think, on a general survey of the 
 particular spot above described, that it may be really the 
 place in which the shepherds kept watch by night. Of course 
 there has been great change in the surface of the surrounding 
 country in the course of upwards of eighteen centuries; 
 but at present, this is certainly the most pastoral looking 
 plain in the neighbourhood of Bethlehem ; and the character 
 of its soil gave me reason to believe that such was its ancient 
 character. I am less disposed than some travellers have 
 been, to question the truth of traditions in reference to sacred 
 localities, except where, as in the grotto of the nativity, and 
 elsewhere as I may have occasion to mention, there is an 
 evident attempt to prove too much. 
 
 After a hasty examination of Bethlehem, as to its interior, 
 I have little to record beyond the fact of its presenting a 
 sad picture of filth, poverty, and ruinous desolation, for 
 which I apprehend there is no help, while it continues to 
 sigh under the grasp of Mahommedan domination. And all 
 this sad reality is easily traceable to one sole cause 
 Israel's rejection of Messiah. Had Israel held fast to their 
 integrity where is the spot on which the foot of the infidel 
 could have fixed itself securely where is the mountain, 
 where the valley, from Dan even to Beersheba, from which 
 there should not even now be going forth the joyous song 
 of exultation at the glorious triumphs of redemption, in 
 which the voices of the thousands of Bethlehem and Nazareth 
 and Jerusalem would be heard bearing their distinguished 
 part ? But there is a day coming (is it far distant ?) when 
 the glory so long departed from Judea shall return with 
 renewed lustre, and gathered Israel shall chant forth the 
 promised anthem for which the church waits, " Blessed be he 
 that comcth in the name of the Lord."
 
 COSTUME, ETC. DEPARTURE FROM BETHLEHEM. 235 
 
 The usual dress of both males and females is, I should 
 suppose, very much, if not quite, like that in use from the 
 earliest ages. It is what I have seen in the most ancient 
 pictures of scripture subjects. The female costume is full 
 and flowing, and commonly of red or blue; while that 
 of the men of Bethlehem and its neighbourhood and I may 
 say of Palestine generally, consists of a linen tunic, which 
 leaves the neck, arms, and legs bare, and is bound round the 
 loins with a leathern girdle. Those who can afford it, have, 
 in addition, a full cloak or mantle. They all wear turbans. 
 Every thing I saw had the effect of carrying my mind quite 
 back to the period with which the scriptures render us so 
 familiar. And in many a sunburnt and graceful shepherd 
 youth as we passed along, imagination might almost picture 
 the lineaments of the once humble, but ennobled stripling 
 son of Jesse the Bethlehemite. 
 
 The population of Bethlehem appear to spend their days 
 in listless indolence, with the exception of the women, who I 
 am informed, are the merest drudges and slaves of their 
 husbands. The usual stimulants to industry are miserably 
 withheld throughout Palestine ; for no man is permitted to 
 realize an independence for himself and his family; but 
 every thing he may acquire, beyond the means of a bare 
 and scanty subsistence, is only an object to excite the cupidity 
 of the wretched despotism under which the poor people exist, 
 and are ground down to the dust. The people of England, 
 methinks, might learn a valuable lesson of contentment and 
 gratitude to Almighty God, for the government under which 
 they live, and the privileges they enjoy, if they could but 
 once see and feel the condition of the degraded and enslaved 
 population of Palestine. Alas ! till the " restitution of all 
 things," Palestine and its thousands must groan hopelessly 
 under the hand of the oppressor. 
 
 The time for our departure from Bethlehem drew near. 
 When all things were made ready, we bade farewell to our 
 kindly monks, left a suitable gratuity for the hospitality we
 
 236 DEPARTURE FROM BETHLEHEM. 
 
 had received, and soon stood again at the narrow portal of the 
 convent, surrounded by a large number of Bethlehemites, 
 who had brought for sale to the pilgrims, as they no doubt 
 accounted us, rosaries made of the olive tree, crosses and 
 carvings of the Virgin and Child, and other popish toys 
 and trinkets formed of mother-o'-pearl, by the manufacture 
 of which, I imagine many of the people obtain a scanty 
 subsistence. It was difficult to rid ourselves of their impor- 
 tunity ; and I dare say our indifference to their merchandize, 
 made them set us down in their estimation as very bad 
 catholics, after all. 
 
 It was an absorbing train of thought which took possession 
 of my mind as I mounted for my journey. Many a weary 
 mile had I travelled under the burning sun of Africa, 
 and amidst the dreary desolation of the trackless Deserts 
 of Arabia since I bade farewell to my dear family and my 
 beloved flock ; and now, thought I, with a grateful adoring 
 recollection of mercies innumerable, and a hope too strong 
 for utterance now in a brief space before yonder sun 
 shall sink to his western home " Our feet shall stand within 
 thy gates, O Jerusalem" And, again, I mused upon the 
 gracious promise with which my journey commenced "As 
 one whom his mother comforteth, so will I comfort you ; and 
 ye shall be comforted in Jerusalem." 1 Comfort, great and 
 lasting, had I enjoyed during every step of my way; and I 
 looked forward with full assurance of comfort yet to come. 
 Blessed, for ever blessed, be my heavenly Father, He has 
 abundantly proved his faithfulness. 
 
 Farewell to Bethlehem ; but not to its hallowed associations : 
 they are engraven on my heart. 
 
 Passing slowly along the narrow streets, amidst the 
 crowded population who seemed to be all abroad, we made 
 our exit by the gate at which we had entered; and our 
 
 1 See incident in page 5.
 
 TOMB OF RACHEL. 237 
 
 route lay, for some time, down a winding and terraced road 
 of steep declivity, which helped us to obtain an accurate idea 
 of the noble and commanding position of the august city we 
 were quitting. Fig and olive plantations, in great luxuriance, 
 hung on every part of the hill slopes ; and, bathed in warm 
 sunlight, presented a lovely picture. Having mastered this 
 part of our way, we turned nearly northward, and entered 
 upon a more level but extremely rugged mule and camel 
 path, between the stone walls of fig and olive groves. On 
 reaching higher ground* we were enabled here and there, 
 eastward, to catch glimpses of the Dead Sea, shut in by the 
 mountains of Moab. In that direction all appeared arid, 
 brown and barren. For some distance the road is a continuous 
 ascent. When distant about half an hour from Bethlehem, 
 the traveller inquires, "What is yonder square whitewashed 
 building of Turkish structure, surmounted by a dome, and 
 occupying its position on the left, not far from the main 
 way ?" The answer is ready : " It is the tomb of Rachel 
 the 'Mother of Israel.'" It may be so, though the present 
 building is evidently modern, and Mahommedan. The Turks 
 can have no motive for palming an error upon us on this 
 subject. That the place of Rachel's interment is not far from 
 thence, is quite clear; for we read "And they journeyed 
 from Bethel, and there was but little way to come to 
 
 Ephrath And Rachel died, and was buried in the 
 
 way to Ephrath, which is Bethlehem. And Jacob set a 
 pillar upon her grave : that is the pillar of Rachel's grave 
 unto this day." 1 I dwll not on the other objects, for the 
 identity of which there is not the slightest proof such as 
 the impression in the rock, occasioned, as the superstitious 
 say, by the body of Elijah as he slept here, when fleeing 
 from Jezebel ; the fountain of the star, and the abodes 
 of Simeon and the prophet Habakkuk, now in ruins 
 
 1 Gen. xxxv. 1620. How tender is the recollection of this fact as uttered 
 by Jacob, -when his own days were waning. "As for me, when I came from 
 Padan, Rachel died by me in the land of Canaan, in the way, when yet there 
 was but a little way to come unto Ephrath ; and I buried her there, in the way 
 of Ephrath : the same is Bethlehem." Gen. xlviii 7.
 
 238 FIRST VIEW OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 but I press onwards beyond the convent of Mar Elias on 
 the right, up the rugged pass to an elevated spot, midway, 
 or nearly so, between Bethlehem and the Holy City from 
 whence, as during all the previous ascent, the view of 
 Bethlehem its fine position, and its surrounding territory, is 
 charming and exciting. While frequently looking back, I 
 could but cherish a frequent recurrence of the reflection, 
 that to the marvellous transaction of which that ancient 
 city was the honoured scene the lines of prophecy had all 
 been tending, from the moment in which Jehovah declared 
 that the seed of the woman should bruize the serpent's 
 head; and then, while looking northwards, I inquired 
 " What is yonder dark, low ridge of building, in the distance ?" 
 and was told that my eyes were then resting on the Holy 
 City Jerusalem I felt it was, indeed, something worth 
 toiling and travelling for, to have behind me and before 
 me the two most venerable spots in the whole world the 
 one in which the "seed of the woman" God manifest 
 in the flesh, stood forth girt about with the weapons of a 
 terrible warfare; and the other, where, in the might of 
 redemption, he bruised the serpent's head; and in dying, 
 abolished death, and brought life and immortality to light 
 by the gospel. As I gazed upon both, I felt oh how r deeply! 
 the faithfulness of God, who had thus realized in Christ, 
 and brought to a full fruition, the first hope of rescue and 
 restoration that ever gleamed upon a sin-bound and apostate 
 world. 
 
 JERUSALEM ! JERUSALEM ! My eyes were indeed resting 
 on its dim and distant reality. I can see the Holy City 
 now how distinctly ! I had no emotions none of those 
 overwhelming gushings of the heart, which more enthusiastic 
 travellers have experienced. If I recall my sensations 
 rightly, they partook more than any thing else, of a calm, 
 peaceful, and adoring assurance that what God had promised 
 for me in Eden, when the first Adam stood guilty and con- 
 founded before him he had really fulfilled for me there 
 in that sacred spot which lay before me in the person of the
 
 JERUSALEM. 239 
 
 second Adam the Lord from Heaven. And though time 
 may deaden, and sorrow may darken the retrospective visions 
 of the soul as to all other things, yet, nothing short of an 
 oblivious quenching of the powers of memory, will erase the 
 recollections of that moment, and that scene. And now, 
 while standing on the ground of hope which belongs to the 
 whole "ISRAEL of God" in Christ, I can take up the song, 
 in the house of my pilgrimage, and say : 
 
 "Jerusalem ! my happy home, 
 
 Name ever dear to me; 
 When shall my labours have an end, . 
 
 In joy, in peace, in thee ?" 
 
 I remember how, after a brief pause, we rode on in silence 
 a silence in itself affecting. It was a time in which no man 
 would intrude upon the thoughts and feelings of another. 
 Even our attendant Arabs were silent. The tide of sacred 
 history flowed massively through my mind; and its events, 
 from the beginning to the end, with all their grandeur and 
 magnificence, seemed to pass before me with a wonderful 
 sense of reality. I had journeyed onwards from the scene 
 of Israel's bondage and deliverance, to the spot where a more 
 terrible captivity was destroyed, and a nobler deliverance 
 achieved. I had traversed some of the scenes of Israel's 
 wanderings, and I now stood in the scenes of their glory and 
 greatness of their shame and their nothingness yet, still 
 in the spot where One, more glorious than Solomon and 
 mightier than David, shall restore the lost lustre of Israel, 
 and gather in their thousands, with the rest of a redeemed 
 people, from the four winds of heaven when that shall have 
 received its full accomplishment which is spoken by the holy 
 prophet : "And it shall come to pass in the last days, that 
 the mountain of the Lord's house shall be established in the 
 top of the mountains, and shall be exalted above the hills ; 
 and all nations shall flow unto it. And many people shall go 
 and say, Come ye and let us go up to the mountain of the 
 Lord, to the house of the God of Jacob : and he will teach us 
 of his ways, and we will walk in his paths : for out of Zion
 
 240 PROGRESS TOWARDS JERUSALEM. 
 
 shall go forth the law, and the word of the Lord from 
 Jerusalem ;" 1 and when shall be made good to Israel the 
 precious promise "Behold I will bring it [Jerusalem] health 
 and cure, and I will cure them, and I will reveal unto them the 
 abundance of peace and truth. And I will cause the captivity 
 of Judah and the captivity of Israel to return, and will build 
 them as at the first. And I will cleanse them from all their 
 iniquity, whereby they have sinned against me ; and I will 
 pardon all their iniquities, whereby they have sinned, and 
 whereby they have transgressed against me. And it shall be 
 to me a name of joy, a praise and an honour before all the 
 nations of the earth, which shall hear all the good that I do 
 unto them ; and they shall fear and tremble for all the goodness, 
 and for all the prosperity that I procure unto it." 2 
 
 When we first came within sight of Jerusalem, it was 
 distant about five miles ; and from that point of view seemed 
 to occupy a small space in the midst of a wide, arid plain, 
 round which gently rising slopes, rather than hills, appeared 
 to be gathered. I thought of the passage "As the mountains 
 are round about Jerusalem, so the Lord is round about his 
 people from henceforth even for ever ;" 3 and felt a sense of 
 disappointment at the picture. But this, like most impressions 
 hastily taken, was erroneous. I had not then arrived at the 
 proper point of sight to obtain an accurate notion either 
 of the city or its surrounding mountains. As seen at such a 
 distance, but little more was apparent than a seemingly low, 
 straight, embattled wall, with a few inconsiderable buildings, 
 and here and there a small dome, and a palm tree or two the 
 greater part of the city, northward and north-eastward being 
 invisible. But still it was Jerusalem not such as when David 
 and Solomon, in the fulness of their royal glory, bare rule amidst 
 its thousands, or when Titus marched in the pride of Roman 
 power, or when the ploughshare had passed over, and rooted up 
 its foundations, but it was Jerusalem "trodden down of the 
 Gentiles, until the times of the Gentiles be fulfilled."* From 
 
 1 Isaiah ii. 2, 3. Jeremiah xxxiii. 69. Psalm cxxv. 2. 4 Luke xxi. 24.
 
 PROGRESS TOWARDS JERUSALEM. 
 
 this point, the road was level and good, for Palestine ; and 
 continued in a gentle descent. How the feet of buried 
 generations have trodden it. How many a patriarch and 
 prophet, how many a pilgrim and burning-hearted crusader 
 has familiarized himself with the aspect of every object. 
 And, perhaps, this very road was once marked by the footsteps 
 of the incarnate Son of God. 
 
 As we advanced nearer, the city assumed her proper 
 position, and the relative objects about her were such as 
 scripture narrative would lead us to expect. The Psalmist 
 says, "Jerusalem is builded as a city that is compact together;" 
 [or at unity with itself]; and such is precisely the idea which 
 even now the mind conceives of it, occupying as it does, the 
 summit and sides of a distinct and separate rocky elevation, 
 surrounded for the most part, by a bold and deep valley, 
 presenting as it were an almost natural fortification, surmounted 
 by massive walls, though not at present altogether worthy 
 of the commanding position which they occupy. In front 
 of us, rose up the majestic heights of Mount Zion. At their 
 westward base lay the valley of Gihon, bending off towards 
 the valley of the son of Hinnom, and the decayed village 
 of Siloam, to which the Mount of Offence and part of the Mount 
 of Olives formed the background. Having reached the 
 lowest point of descent, we wound our way slowly up 
 towards the left, in order to enter at the Yaffa, or Bethlehem 
 gate. At length the weary pilgrimage was accomplished. 
 On the hundred and third day after quitting my native 
 shores, I stood in health, peace, and safety a candidate for 
 admission into the Holy City. It seemed almost to shadow 
 forth to the imagination, the Christian's pilgrimage to the city 
 which hath foundations whose maker and builder is God. 
 While standing at the gate, ruminating on the past, and 
 thinking how improbable it appeared, twelve months before, 
 that my feet should ever tread Immanuel's land, it was really 
 difficult to realize the fact that I, separated for a season from 
 the duties of my beloved charge, was then actually on the 
 scene of my adorable Saviour's triumphs. My own personal
 
 242 
 
 identity I could not question ; and yet a surmise just passed 
 through my mind May it not be all a dream ? 
 
 A sort of quarantine had been established at Jerusalem 
 for fear of plague ; and we were not permitted to enter till 
 the medical officer had seen us. After a short delay, during 
 which we were waited on, outside the walls, by Mr. Johns, 
 the pro-Consul, who shewed us every polite attention, the 
 official personage made his appearance ; who, having received 
 an explanation as to the Desert route which we had taken 
 from Cairo, and being assured that there was no plague in 
 that place when we left it, just required us to submit to a 
 slight fumigation with brimstone, in a tent pitched near the 
 gate, as the ground of a claim for a few piastres, and admitted 
 us at once having previously suffered our baggage and 
 servants to pass without any fumigation whatever. We 
 proceeded direct to the Latin Franciscan Convent, where 
 we resolved to take up our abode during our stay in the 
 Holy City. A tolerable sized room, with whitewashed w r alls, 
 and a small coarse bed at each end, was set apart for our 
 use ; and soon, with a little activity on the part of our faithful 
 servants, we felt ourselves at home, with a prospect of three 
 weeks delightful sojourn in Jerusalem. Rest, after the dreary 
 wanderings through which we had passed, would have been 
 delightful in any place under almost any circumstances ; 
 but, rest in "the city of the Great King" I felt it was far 
 beyond my deserving. I could almost have said Here let 
 me rest for ever; but I remembered I had left my flock 
 in the wilderness of an evil world, and the earthly Jerusalem 
 must be no home for me.
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 JERUSALEM. 
 
 PROPHETICAL PORTRAITURE OF JERUSALEM JERUSALEM THE JEWS SACRED 
 LOCALITIES THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE VIEW OF THE CITY 
 
 FROM THE SERAGLIO SITE OF THE TEMPLE EXTERIOR OF JERUSALEM 
 
 MOUNT ZION THE VALLEY OF HINNOM FIELD OF BLOOD TOPHET THE 
 
 VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT TOMBS IN THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT 
 
 GETHSEMANE THE MOUNT OF OLIVES BETHANY THE ROAD TO EMMAUS 
 
 TOMBS OF THE KINGS A LUNATIC THE POOL OF BETHESDA MY FIRST 
 
 SABBATH IN JERUSALEM THE NEW JERUSALEM THE JEWS IN PALESTINE 
 
 THE CHURCH IN JERUSALEM JEWISH CUSTOM MY SECOND SABBATH IN 
 JERUSALEM FUTURE MOVEMENTS. 
 
 "How doth the city sit solitary, that was full of people ! How 
 is she become as a widow ! She that was great among the 
 nations, and princess among the provinces, how is she become 
 tributary ! She weepeth sore in the night, and her tears are 
 on her cheeks ; among all her lovers she hath none to comfort 
 her ; all her friends have dealt treacherously with her, they 
 are become her enemies. Judah is gone into captivity, 
 because of affliction, and because of great servitude; she 
 dwelleth among the heathen, she findeth no rest: all her 
 persecutors took her between the straits. The ways of Zion 
 do mourn, because none come to the solemn feasts ; all her 
 gates are desolate ; her priests sigh, her virgins are afflicted, 
 and she is in bitterness. Her adversaries are the chief, her 
 enemies prosper ; for the Lord hath afflicted her, for the 
 multitude of her transgressions : her children are gone into 
 captivity before the enemy. And from the daughter of Zion 
 all her beauty is departed : her princes are become like harts 
 that find no pasture; and they are gone without strength
 
 S PROPHETICAL PORTRAITURE OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 before the pursuer. Jerusalem remembered in the day of her 
 affliction, and of her miseries, all her pleasant things that 
 she had in the days of old, when her people fell into the hand 
 of the enemy, and none did help her : the adversaries saw her, 
 and did mock at her sabbaths. Jerusalem hath grievously 
 sinned; therefore she is removed: all that honoured her, 
 despise her, because they have seen her nakedness : yea, she 
 sigheth, and turneth backward. Her filthiness is in her 
 skirts ; she remcmbereth not her last end ; therefore she came 
 down wonderfully : she had no comforter. O Lord, behold 
 my affliction : for the enemy hath magnified himself. The 
 adversary hath spread out his hand upon all her pleasant 
 things : for she hath seen that the heathen entered into her 
 sanctuary, whom thou didst command that they should not 
 enter into thy congregation. All her people sigh, they 
 seek bread; they have given their pleasant things for meat 
 to relieve the soul: see, O Lord, and consider; for I am 
 become vile. Is it nothing to you, all ye that pass by ? behold, 
 and see if there be any sorrow like unto my sorrow, which is 
 done unto me, wherewith the Lord hath afflicted me in the 
 day of his fierce anger. From above hath he sent fire into my 
 bones, and it prevailcth against them : he hath spread a net 
 for my feet; he hath turned me back: he hath made me 
 desolate and faint all the day. The yoke of my transgressions 
 is bound by his hand : they are wreathed, and come up upon 
 my neck ; he hath made my strength to fall ; the Lord hath 
 delivered me into their hands, from whom I am not able to 
 rise up. The Lord hath trodden under foot all my mighty 
 men in the midst of me : he hath called an assembly against 
 me to crush my young men : the Lord hath trodden the virgin, 
 the daughter of Judah, as in a wine-press. For these things 
 I weep ; mine eye, mine eye runneth down with water, because 
 the comforter that should relieve my soul is far from me : my 
 children are desolate, because the enemy prevailed. Zion 
 spreadeth forth her hands, and there is none to comfort her : the 
 Lord hath commanded concerning Jacob, that his adversaries 
 
 should be round about him The Lord is righteous ; for 
 
 I have rebelled against his commandment : hear, I pray you
 
 PROPHETICAL PORTRAITURE OF JERUSALEM. 245 
 
 all people, and behold my sorrow : my virgins and my young 
 men are gone into captivity. I called for my lovers, but they 
 deceived me : my priests and my elders gave up the ghost 
 in the city, while they sought their meat to relieve their souls. 
 Behold, O Lord, for I am in distress ; my bowels are troubled ; 
 mine heart is turned within me ; for I have grievously 
 rebelled; abroad the sword bereaveth, at home there is as 
 death. They have heard that I sigh ; there is none to comfort 
 me ; all mine enemies have heard of my trouble ; they are 
 
 glad that thou hast done it How hath the Lord 
 
 covered the daughter of Zion with a cloud in his anger, and 
 cast down from heaven unto the earth the beauty of Israel, 
 
 and remembered not his footstool in the day of his anger 
 
 He hath swallowed up Israel, he hath swallowed up her 
 palaces; he hath destroyed his strong holds, and hath 
 increased in the daughter of Judah mourning and lamentation. 
 And he hath violently taken away his tabernacle, as if it 
 were of a garden; he hath destroyed his places of the 
 assembly; the Lord hath caused the solemn feasts and 
 sabbaths to be forgotten in Zion, and hath despised in the 
 indignation of his anger, the king and the priest. The Lord 
 hath cast off his altar, he hath abhorred his sanctuary, he 
 hath given up into the hand of the enemy, the walls of her 
 
 palaces The Lord hath purposed to destroy the 
 
 wall of the daughter of Zion ; he hath stretched out a line, he 
 hath not withdrawn his hand from destroying ; therefore he 
 made the rampart and the wall to lament ; they languished 
 together. Her gates are sunk into the ground; he hath 
 
 destroyed and broken her bars Her prophets also find 
 
 no vision from the Lord. The elders of the daughter of Zion 
 sit upon the ground, and keep silence; they have cast up 
 dust upon their heads; they have girded themselves with 
 sackcloth ; the virgins of Jerusalem hang down their heads to 
 
 the ground All that pass by clap their hands at thee ; 
 
 they hiss and wag their head at the daughter of Jerusalem, 
 saying, Is THIS THE CITY THAT MEN CALL THE PERFECTION 
 
 OF BEAUTY, THE JOY OF THE WHOLE EARTH?" 1 
 
 1 See Lamentations, chap. i. and ii.
 
 246 JERUSALEM THE JEWS. 
 
 Many a time has the question been proposed to me 
 "What is the precise impression that Jerusalem made, and 
 left, upon your mind?" The most carefully graphic and 
 elaborate answer that I feel capable of affording, would fall 
 far short of that which I have just given from the book 
 of Lamentations in every sentence of which, one seems to 
 trace the trickling of a tear, and the bursting of a deep-drawn 
 sigh the tear and the sigh hopeless and heartless of 
 Jerusalem for the glory that is departed. Doubtless the 
 prophet depicted Jerusalem as he saw her, when the avenging 
 hand of Jehovah first laid her honour in the dust ; but he did 
 more than that. With a prophet's vision he foresaw the 
 utter desolation which impended in times that should be 
 big with the most disastrous events towards her when 
 Jerusalem should become "heaps," and be finally, as she 
 now is, "trodden down of the Gentiles." All that Jeremiah 
 foretold as a prophet, and every thing he recorded as 
 an historian, is at any moment to be traced in the present 
 aspect of the Holy City, and her miserable population. 
 He exhibits her in all the phases of her history, from 
 Nebuchadnezzar until Omar; and from thence to the day 
 when the Lord shall build up Zion, and shall appear in 
 his glory. Exaggeration is almost impossible upon the 
 condition of Jerusalem at the present day. 
 
 "And the Jews themselves are they really so destitute 
 
 and miserable so much the obj ects of tyranny and oppression, 
 as some have alleged concerning them ?" 
 
 This is another inquiry not unfrequently made. My answer 
 shall be recorded in the words of the Almighty himself, by the 
 mouth of Moses his servant every one of which has been 
 literally and exactly accomplished, even to the present moment. 
 " It shall come to pass, if thou wilt not hearken unto the voice 
 of the Lord thy God, to observe to do all his commandments 
 
 and his statutes which I command you this day ; that 
 
 the Lord shall send upon thee cursing, vexation, and rebuke, 
 in all that thou scttcst thine hand unto for to do, until thou
 
 JERUSALEM THE JEWS. 
 
 be destroyed, and until thou perish quickly ; because of the 
 
 wickedness of thy doings, whereby thou hast forsaken me 
 
 The Lord shall give thee there a trembling heart, and 
 
 failing of eyes, and sorrow of mind : and thy life shall hang 
 in doubt before thee; and thou shalt fear day and night, 
 and shalt have none assurance of thy life. In the morning 
 thou shalt say, would God it were even ! and at even thou 
 shalt say, would God it were morning ! for the fear of thine 
 heart wherewith thou shalt fear, and for the sight of thine 
 eyes which thou shalt see." 1 
 
 Viewed externally, and especially from the east, the deso- 
 lation of Jerusalem is not so apparent, except when the eye 
 glances upon the great mosque of Omar, occupying the site 
 where once stood the temple in its majesty and its glory ; 
 and then it is that the tide of her wondrous history rolls 
 through the awakened mind, and the image of her former 
 self rises in marbled majesty, amidst the imagined songs 
 of priests and levites, and the attendant trains of Solomon and 
 of David her kings. The sense of contrast then at once 
 takes possession of the mind ; and is confirmed, to the exact 
 letter of scripture, by an hour's walk in her lonely and silent 
 
 1 Sec particularly Deut. xxviii. 15, 20, 65, 66,67 ; but consult the -whole chapter 
 in general reference to the Jews elsewhere as well as in Palestine. As to their 
 religion, such as it is, they are tolerated in it by the Turkish government : but 
 the rapacity with which they are treated in temporal things is sad indeed. I 
 may instance one particular which I had on the highest authority. The houses 
 in Jerusalem belong to Turks. If a Jew wants a habitation, he must therefore 
 have an oppressive hater for his landlord. The landlord has a right to demand 
 a year's rent, to be paid on taking possession; but yet he may eject the tenant 
 at a short notice. The Mahommedan law sanctions the claim of an ejected 
 tenant for the repayment of an adequate portion of the rent ; but he must prove 
 his case before the Cadi. A Jew's testimony is not admissible. A Christian's 
 is refused. No Turk will bear witness on behalf of a Jew. So then at any 
 moment, a Jew may be turned into the street : and in addition to that calamity, 
 must lose all the year's rent which he paid in advance. Moreover, if a Jew 
 engage in any little trade, he barely earns enough to sustain life. If he possess 
 anything beyond this, he is an object towards which rapacity glances its greedy 
 and cruel eye. The poor Jews throughout Palestine derive all their sustenance, or 
 nearly so, from contributions made by the richer Jews in various parts of Europe.
 
 248 JERUSALEM. 
 
 streets, amidst her dim and darkened habitations, where the 
 sound of one's solitary footsteps keeps time to the cadence 
 of saddening thoughts which crowd upon the soul. I never 
 felt, though I have firmly believed, the dread realities in 
 which prophecy has developed itself, till I stood within the 
 walls of Jerusalem, and till I gazed on the mountains and 
 valleys of Palestine. I think if I had gone forth a sceptic, I 
 must have returned a believer. Either the Bible must be 
 true or Judea an unreal thing an inexplicable phenomenon. 
 In its reality, and in its present condition, lies the proof 
 which even the pride of human reason cannot reject, that the 
 page of inspiration is the depository of immutable truth the 
 text of unerring appeal, of which Judea is a living commentary 
 and interpreter. 
 
 But I must pause on this subject, till I have briefly sketched 
 the portraiture of the Holy City and her adjacent territory, as 
 I beheld them. 
 
 "How doth the city sit solitary!" All who have walked 
 around Jerusalem must have felt this. No suburbs no 
 surrounding busy population none of the stir and activity 
 of enterprizing life is to be seen. The wall of Jerusalem lies 
 about her like a fetter ; and the hand of oppression crushes 
 her. She is captive and hopeless. A few goats and sheep, 
 straggling about the rocks which overhang the shattered 
 remains of the village of Siloam a few swarthy shepherds 
 plying their listless occupation with here and there a fierce 
 and armed Bedawee from the surrounding deserts and 
 mountain fastnesses, and now and then a cowled monk or 
 wandering pilgrim steal in upon the picture ; and except it 
 be the sound of the Muezzin from the minarets, proclaiming 
 the hour of prayer to the followers of the false prophet, you 
 may sit on the hill slopes, on either side, for an hour together, 
 and not hear the vibration of a human voice from that spot 
 which once echoed to the strains of sacred song, and royal 
 triumph, and national glory, and enterprizing ardour. Alas, 
 alas ! " How doth the city sit solitary !"
 
 SACRED LOCALITIES. 249 
 
 I shall now present a narrative of my pursuits in Jerusalem, 
 as I find them recorded in my journal at the time. But 
 before I proceed, I would briefly state my mind in reference 
 to what are called the sacred localities that is, those spots 
 which are reputed to be the scenes of the various events 
 recorded in sacred history. They resolve themselves into 
 two classes. Those of the first class, consist of such as admit 
 of proof from the page of scripture and other authentic 
 sources, and are independent on the mere traditions and 
 legends of popery such as Mount Zion, Mount Moriah, the 
 Brook Kedron, the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the Valley of the 
 son of Hinnom, the Garden of Gethsemane, the Mount 
 of Olives, and others of which there is no doubt. Those 
 of the second class, are such as have been seized upon 
 for the purposes of superstitious usage ; such as the alleged 
 actual spot of the crucifixion and sepulture of our adorable 
 Redeemer, and those where he was bound and scourged 
 when living, and in w T hich his body was prepared for the 
 burial, when dead and such like. With regard to the 
 former, we have all the proof which the nature of the case 
 admits of nay, all we should desire. But as to the latter, 
 superstition lays itself open to the charge of endeavouring 
 to prove too much. That the transactions so sought to be 
 minutely localized, transpired someichere about and possibly 
 on the very spots assigned, I would not venture to doubt. 
 But when I see so many of them huddled together 
 within the narrow confines of the church of the holy 
 sepulchre, my mind feels perplexed and confined in the 
 contemplation of them; and the solemnity of thought 
 and feeling is invaded by the tinsels and trappings and 
 gildings and illuminations, and mere monkery under which 
 they are obscured. Could we but sweep away the popery 
 and superstitious guardianship which pollute and degrade 
 the holy places, the believing heart might expand over 
 them with unrestricted freedom and delight. I could but 
 feel indignant and disgusted at seeing the alleged Golgotha, 
 and the place of the holy sepulchre invaded by the presence 
 and power of a church which exalts the Virgin Mother
 
 250 SACRED LOCALITIES. 
 
 above her mediating, redeeming and triumphant Son. No ! 
 
 Let me sit on the Mount of Olives, from which the 
 
 whole city is distinctly visible let me get my heart attuned 
 to the sweet music of holy meditation, till it glows with 
 renewed energy of faith, and then let me look forth upon 
 all these things in the main; let me feel that I am gazing on 
 the whole scene of my adorable Redeemer's humiliation and 
 triumph ; that there the vast sacrifice was offered, and the 
 all-effectual atonement accomplished that there in that spot 
 on which my eye now rests in the energy of recollection 
 lie was delivered for my offences, and raised again for my 
 justification and I am content. But bring me back, amidst 
 the stage-play scenery of these garnished localities, and the 
 deep sensation produced by a suitable presence of venerable 
 scenes, evaporates in doubtfulness and disquietude of mind. 
 View sacred scenes in their naked reality, and the truths 
 connected with them swell into their proper immensity as the 
 mind receives and acts on them. View them as superstition 
 presents them, and the mind labours at the conception, if it 
 does not even count them little. And I am sure that in 
 proportion to the healthy simplicity of our Christian faith, is 
 the delight we experience while surveying sacred spots, in 
 the main ; and the contempt which we feel for all that would 
 interfere with our more massive and enlarged perceptions. 
 The whole of Jerusalem is rendered illustrious as the scene 
 of redemption, just as the whole of Horeb is made glorious 
 as the scene of a divine legislation ; and as the whole of the 
 wilderness is made venerable as the scene of Israel's wander- 
 ings, and as connected with the opening of a dispensation 
 towards man, the final glories of which are yet to be 
 developed. 
 
 Next to the solemn joy I experienced on entering the Holy 
 City, was the delightful anticipation of finding there the newly 
 consecrated Bishop of a Church occupying the same spiritual 
 foundation as that on which the Church of Jerusalem stood, 
 when James the faithful witness and first Bishop, there sat 
 in the scat of authority to uphold and promote " the faith once
 
 CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 251 
 
 delivered to the saints." It was no small joy, after wandering 
 so long in unchristian wilds, to be received and welcomed by 
 him the spiritual overseer of our infant church in that 
 sacred city, and to meet dear Christian brethren, on whom 
 holy hands had been laid with them to hold sweet communion 
 and to sing the Lord's song, though in a strange land. 
 
 Our first perambulation in Jerusalem led us to the Church 
 of the Holy Sepulchre. After due consideration of most that 
 has been written on the subject, I am inclined to the belief, 
 that it really stands on the spot which is hallowed in our 
 memories by the name of Calvary. It were an unprofitable 
 task to bring together in this place all that may be adduced 
 in the way of argument in support of this opinion. I therefore 
 forbear. Nor will I weary my readers with any description 
 of the Church itself, so abundantly and accurately described 
 by others. I felt myself surrounded in it by the various kinds 
 of popish apparatus with which I had become familiar even 
 to disgust, in France and Italy; and hastened through the 
 mere exhibition that awaited me, perfectly convinced that 
 if any of the scenes of our blessed Lord's humiliation and 
 suffering were actually beneath that roof, they were as utterly 
 obscured and disfigured by outward decoration, as His 
 finished and perfect work of redemption effected there, is 
 obscured and disfigured by the corruptions of an apostate 
 church. I felt it to be just possible, and that was all that 
 the spot shewn me as the actual scene of the crucifixion might 
 indeed be that, and it might be a part of the rock, riven by 
 the earthquake, which was enshrined near it ; that the stone 
 column, half concealed by iron work, might have been that 
 to which our Lord was bound when scourged that the small 
 fragment of rude stone seen by the light of a small taper, 
 through a kind of iron filigree, might have been the stone 
 on which he sat to be crowned with thorns and that the 
 spot overhung with lamps, and covered with a white marble 
 sarcophagus, with a kind of domed structure in the centre, 
 might have been the place of our Lord's burial and resurrec- 
 tion ; but when I saw the near juxta-position of all these
 
 VIEW OF THE CITY FROM THE SERAGLIO. 
 
 things and knew, that in order to provide for the structure 
 of the Church, the site had to be cut down and levelled ; and 
 when I reflected that on the very spot a heathen temple had 
 stood, till removed by the Empress Helena, to make room for 
 this Church ; and moreover, when I bore in mind the purpose 
 which all these things were to serve, and the spirit of that 
 church which thus paraded these objects of curiosity I did 
 feel that after all they might not be what they professed. Yet 
 all this could not do away with the impression that thereabouts 
 was indeed the scene of our blessed Lord's precious death 
 and resurrection. But while there even that impression 
 failed to produce any satisfying effect upon my mind. 
 
 Far different was the feeling with which I stood on that 
 commanding position the roof of the Seraglio, or Governor's 
 residence; a poor mean building, filled with idle Turkish 
 soldiers. From that spot a fine panoramic view of the city 
 presents itself, which, while enabling the spectator to see it 
 somewhat in detail, induces the mind to a contemplation of the 
 contrast between its present and its former state. Amidst all 
 the sad evidences of change, and traces of spoliation within 
 the walls, it is delightful to glance upon the surrounding 
 scenery, and to know that as the mountains ever stood round 
 about Jerusalem, so they stand now, unchanged ; that prophets, 
 apostles, martyrs yea, their incarnate Creator himself all 
 have gazed on them as we behold them ; that though Jehovah 
 frowns on them for a time, yet still they were once bathed in 
 the glorious light of his favour, and again will be, when he 
 shall cause his banished ones to return. The sun was nearly 
 set when we reached the Seraglio ; but his last rich beams were 
 cast in glowing magnificence upon the higher ridges of the 
 Mount of Olives, on the east, and tinged the white domes and 
 minarets of Jerusalem with a faint brightness, in which the 
 solitary and widowed city seemed to smile sorrowfully amidst 
 her tears. 
 
 From the roof of the Seraglio, which stands on the northern 
 side of the ancient site of the Temple, we obtained a tolerably
 
 SITE OF THE TEMPLE EXTERIOR OF JERUSALEM. 53 
 
 correct notion of that notable spot. Indeed this is the nearest 
 point of view to which either Jews or Christians are permitted 
 to approach. The Mosque of Omar, the Turkish cathedral 
 of Palestine, in its poor tawdry and unarchitectural style affords 
 a melancholy contrast to the Temple, as imagination pictures 
 it while reading the sacred narrative. It occupies the centre 
 of the area, which is made quite level, and planted with 
 cypress and other trees. As the sun was setting, the sound 
 of the Muezzin bid the "faithful" to prayer; and soon, in 
 various parts of the large area, groups of devout Musselmans 
 were seen engaged in their wonted solemnities. How bitter 
 must be the reflection of the thoughtful Jew, when gazing 
 down on the spot in which Jehovah once placed his name ; 
 when he beholds on it the symbols of a perverted creed, and 
 knows himself to be banished from its sacred precincts ; 
 when he sees the infidel triumphing where his buried fathers 
 once sacrificed and worshipped ; and Mahomet completing 
 what Pagan Home began. 
 
 On the following day we took a general survey of the 
 exterior of the city, making our exit by St. Stephen's gate, 
 on the eastern side, which is approached, from the Latin 
 Convent, along the Via dolorosa the supposed path by 
 which our Lord went up to Calvary, bearing his cross ; and 
 if the Church of the Holy Sepulchre really stands on Calvary, 
 it is probable that this street may be rightly designated. 
 It is now a narrow, steep and rugged way, running nearly due 
 east and west, and has two or three obscure streets branching 
 off from it, one of which leads into the bazaars, and onwards 
 to the Jews' quarter, on the south. Passing out at St. 
 Stephen's gate, the eye rests upon the Mount of Olives that 
 object of deep and enduring interest, with its white chalky 
 soil, scattered over in parts with thin, spare herbage, and 
 slightly overshadowed by fig, olive, and pomegranate trees. 
 The Christian's heart vibrates as he gazes on it; and soon 
 he almost instinctively inquires 
 
 " "Where is the Garden of Gothsemane ? it must be 
 
 near at hand."
 
 254 EXTERIOR OF JERUSALEM. 
 
 Puss down yon winding path of steep and rocky descent, 
 
 which your Saviour's feet so often trod, when he went forth to 
 meditate and pray, and brace up his soul for its vast achieve- 
 ments bear off a little to the right descend into the deep 
 valley of Jchoshaphat cross that rude stone bridge which 
 spans the narrow bed of the brook Kedron ; and a few paces 
 beyond there on the right, where those eight aged and 
 twisted olives cast their quiet shade, fenced in by a rough wall 
 of undressed stone that is Gethscmane ; and beyond over 
 the mount, and off to the right, round its base, are the several 
 roads to Bethany. I beheld these scenes for a brief space, 
 in silence, just to realize the fact ; but I felt I had need of a 
 certain preparation of mind and heart before I could set a 
 pilgrim's foot upon their soil. 
 
 As we proceeded, I deemed it no small privilege to be 
 surrounded by objects with which my bible had long made 
 me familiar ; on my left, the valley of Jehoshaphat, with 
 the village of Siloam and its fountain ; before me, the valley 
 of the son of Hinnom the place of Tophet and Aceldama, 
 the field of blood, beyond it ; on my right, the heights of Zion, 
 crowded with memorials of David, and all his troubles and 
 all his triumphs. But I recollect that every thing seemed 
 shadowy and representative, rather than real: my mind wanted 
 time to concentrate itself upon scenes such as these. The 
 historical facts connected with them, and with the whole 
 locality, had all, to me, in the rapid associations of the mind, 
 a recentness about them, which chronology denied. The 
 personages of sacred history seemed to be as near, as if they 
 had been the men but of yesterday, and as if their recent 
 biography might be heard from the lips of those who had lived 
 and conversed with them, and beheld their achievements. 
 Past ages came rolling back upon me while I stood in the 
 midst of scenes which had supplied matters of record for 
 all time and all memory things which can never really 
 grow old, intermingled as they are, and will be, with the 
 various streams which make up the broad current of man's
 
 MOUNT ZION. 255 
 
 moral history from the begining to the end. It is difficult 
 to make other minds exactly sensible of the process which 
 my own underwent, while taking the first general survey 
 of Jerusalem and its surrounding objects of eternally enduring 
 interest. I think it can be understood only at Jerusalem. 
 My bible has ever since been almost like a new book to me. 
 It is true, I do not believe any of its records the more for 
 having been in Jerusalem ; but I find an indescribable fresh- 
 ness and reality about every narrative as I peruse it, and as 
 I suffer my recollection to bring the scene of it before me, 
 whether it refer to the triumphs and the glory of David and 
 of Solomon the vengeance of Jehovah upon a favoured but 
 faithless people, or the wonders of redemption effected for a 
 fallen world. 
 
 I will now endeavour to bring together my observations 
 upon the most interesting and unquestionable localities about 
 the Holy City, without adhering to the order in which I visited 
 them from day to day, during the three happy and privileged 
 weeks which I spent there. 
 
 ZION. " Let Mount Zion rejoice, let the daughters of Judah 
 be glad, because of thy judgments. Walk about Zion, and 
 go round about her : tell the towers thereof. Mark ye 
 well her bulwarks, consider her palaces ; that ye may tell it 
 to the generation following." 1 The rejoicing of Zion is 
 hushed : the gladness of the daughter of Judah is changed 
 into mourning : the towers and bulwarks of Zion have 
 crumbled, and her palaces have become a desolation ; gene- 
 ration has told to generation the severity of the judgments 
 of Jehovah ; and on that noble and ennobled spot, there is 
 now seen the fulfilment of the prophecy "Therefore shall 
 Zion, for my sake, be ploughed as a field." 2 On her southern 
 slopes she yields to the culture of the husbandmen ; and thin, 
 spare crops of grain and tobacco are scattered about. As I 
 walked about Zion in her desolateness, and thought of the 
 
 1 Psalm xlviii. 1113. 2 Mich. iii. 12.
 
 256 MOUNT ZION. 
 
 "City of David," and of the "Ark of the Lord" in the midst 
 of the tabernacle that David there pitched for it; and as I 
 stood at the gate of Zion, looking over to the south, down 
 the slopes extending to the valley of Hmnom, the silence and 
 almost solitude of the scene impressed me greatly. How vast 
 the change how awful the cause ! Instead of being the 
 seat of enthroned majesty and glory, Zion is now a city 
 of the dead. The bones of David himself where are they ? 
 Were they laid in an obscure grave ? Scripture affirms they 
 were buried in the city of David. 1 Tradition says they 
 repose on Mount Zion the site of that city. The minaret of a 
 small mosque points out the spot to which tradition bids us 
 look. " Men and brethren," said Peter, when preaching Jesus 
 and the resurrection, at Jerusalem "Men and brethren, 
 let me freely speak to you of the patriarch David, that he is 
 both dead and buried, and his sepulchre is with us unto this 
 day." a Alas for poor humanity ! Even David, himself the 
 man after God's own heart what remains of him on the earth? 
 A noble a wondrous a humbling history; dust a grave a 
 tradition ! 
 
 The larger half of Mount Zion is unenclosed by the city 
 walls ; and a considerable part of it is occupied by places 
 of sepulture belonging to the Latin, Greek, and Armenian 
 communities, and to the American Missionaries. The only 
 buildings of any note are the mosque already mentioned, and 
 a rude Armenian convent, said by the monks to occupy the 
 site of the house of Caiaphas. And shall it be always thus ? 
 Shall the traces of divine indignation ever be visible ? Faith 
 says no ; and hope, rejoicing in promise says, no ! Though 
 Zion has become a wilderness, and Jerusalem desolation 3 
 though the Lord hath filled Zion with judgment, 4 yet He 
 loveth her gates, 5 He will do good unto her in his good 
 pleasure, 6 He will save Zion and build the cities of Judah. 7 
 
 1 1 Kings ii. 10. * Acts ii. 29. 8 Isaiah Ixiv. 10. 4 Isaiah xxxiii. 5. 
 Psalm Ixxxvii. 2. Psalm Ii. 18. ' Psalm Ixix. 35.
 
 THE VALLEY OF HINNOM FIELD OF BLOOD. 257 
 
 THE VALLEY OF HINNOM. Perhaps there is no better point 
 of sight from which to view the valley of Hinnom, than that 
 afforded by the southern slopes of Mount Zion. The lower 
 bed of the valley lies at an almost startling depth, and is 
 shaded by a great number of olive and pomegranate trees. 
 The rocks on the opposite side are rugged and precipitous ; 
 but still it possesses an indescribable air of repose. 
 Hushed are all those dreadful shrieks and cries which once 
 echoed in the midst of it, when idolatrous parents sacrificed 
 to Molech, 1 making their children to pass through the fire, 
 and drowning their agonies amidst the braying clangour 
 of musical instruments. 2 The might of the good Josiah was 
 displayed there when he broke in pieces the idol Molech, 
 cut down its polluted and blood-stained groves, and crushed 
 the abomination of the heathen. Formerly the refuse and 
 filth of the city were cast into this deep valley, by command 
 of Josiah, together with the dead bodies of malefactors and 
 animals. And for the purpose of preventing infectious disease, 
 the natural consequence of such deposits, devouring fires were 
 kept continually burning whence it was metaphorically 
 called by the Jews, Gehenna the place of eternal torments. 
 Its present Arabic name is "VVadey Jehennam. 
 
 THE FIELD OF BLOOD, &c. "Then Judas, which had 
 betrayed him, when he saw that he was condemned, repented 
 himself, and brought again the thirty pieces of silver to the 
 Chief Priest and elders, saying I have sinned in that I have 
 betrayed the innocent blood. And they said, What is that to 
 us ? see thou to that. And he cast down the pieces of silver 
 in the temple, and departed and went and hanged himself. 
 And the Chief Priests took the silver pieces, and said, It is 
 not lawful for to put them into the treasury, because it is the 
 price of blood. And they took counsel, and bought with 
 them the potter's field to bury strangers in. Wherefore that 
 
 1 See 2 Kings xxiii. 10. 2 Chronicles xxviii. 3. 
 
 2 It has been thought that the Hebrew word "Toph" which signifies a loud 
 musical instrument, gave the name of Tophet to this scene of idolatrous horror. 
 
 S
 
 258 FIELD OF BLOOD. 
 
 field was called the field of blood, unto this day." 1 " Now 
 this man (Judas) purchased a field 2 with the reward of 
 iniquity ; and falling headlong, he burst asunder in the midst, 
 and all his bowels gushed out. And it was known unto all 
 the dwellers in Jerusalem ; insomuch as that field is called 
 in their proper tongue, Aceldama, that is to say, the field 
 of blood." 3 These scripture narratives invest the potter's field 
 with a gloomy and awful interest ; and so far as I can learn, 
 there seems every thing to favour the idea that the spot fixed 
 on is the true one. Crossing the valley of Hiiinom from 
 Mount Zion, and bearing slightly towards the cast, you make 
 a steep ascent and reach the potter's field a space of small 
 extent, and evidently a place of sepulture. In the middle 
 of it there is still a charnel house. In the time of Sandys, 
 one of our earliest writers, this building was roofed in, but is 
 now open at the top. The dead bodies appear to have been 
 admitted by apertures in the walls ; " through which," says 
 Sandys, "we might see the bottom, all covered with bones, 
 and certain corpses but newly let down it being now the 
 sepulchre of the Armenians; a greedy grave, and great 
 enough to devour the dead of a whole nation ; for they say 
 that the earth thereof within the space of eight and forty 
 hours will consume the flesh that is laid thereon.'" Even 
 to this day, the potter's field is the accustomed place " to 
 bury strangers in." Alas for the guilt and bitterness of heart 
 with which that traitor Judas went forth with a suicide's 
 determination to the potter's field ! One's heart shudders 
 while contemplating the picture. Let us beware of crying 
 "Hail master," with a hollow-hearted profession, while 
 we "crucify the son of God afresh, and put him to an 
 open shame." 
 
 1 Matthew xxvii. 38. 
 
 2 St. Matthew says the Chief Priests purchased the field ; but here it is said 
 that Judas did so. There is no real discrepancy. Judas occasiontd the fit-Id to 
 be purchased by the Chief Priests, by returning to them the money which they 
 could not put into the treasury again. 
 
 3 Acts i. 18, 19. * Sandys, p. 187.
 
 TOPHET. 259 
 
 In the descent from the potter's field towards the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat, the space, to a wide extent, is covered in 
 every part with tombs cut in the solid rock, and some of them 
 have the remains of enriched architraves. They are all very 
 ancient. "While standing in the midst of them and looking 
 towards Mount Zion, the valley of Jehoshaphat runs off to 
 the right, and is surmounted by the "high places of Tophet;" 
 on the left it is joined by the valley of Hinnom. There 
 is a passage in Jeremiah which I cannot help connecting 
 with this extensive and once vastly crowded burial-place. 
 If I am right in doing so, there still, however, remains a 
 question whether it is entirely fulfilled. The prophet's words 
 are these "For the children of Judah have done evil in my 
 sight, saith the Lord : they have set their abominations in the 
 house which is called by my name, to pollute it. And they 
 have built the high places of Tophet, which is in the valley 
 of the son of Hinnom, to burn their sons and their daughters 
 in the fire ; which I commanded them not, neither came it 
 into my heart. Therefore, behold the days come, saith the 
 Lord, that it shall no more be called Tophet, nor The valley 
 of the son of Hinnom, but The valley of slaughter for they 
 shall bury in Tophet, till there be no place. And the carcases 
 of this people shall be meat for the fowls of the heaven, and 
 for the beasts of the earth ; and none shall fray them away. 
 Then will I cause to cease from the cities of Judah, and from 
 the streets of Jerusalem, the voice of mirth, and the voice 
 of gladness, the voice of the bridegroom, and the voice of the 
 bride; for the land shall be desolate." 1 In the last verse of 
 this passage, there certainly seems to be such a note of time, 
 as should lead us to look upon the whole as fulfilled. 
 The tradition continues to this day, that upon the heights, 
 immediately above and about the place called Tophet (that 
 is, upon the " high places of Tophet " now called the Mount 
 of Offence, or the Mount of Corruption), Solomon set up his 
 idols and instituted the worship of Baalim, at the instigation 
 of his strange wives the women of the Moabites, Ammonites, 
 
 1 Jeremiah vii. 3034.
 
 260 TOniET THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 
 
 Edoraitcs, Zidonians, and Ilittitcs. The sacred historian 
 distinctly declares that Solomon built "an high place for 
 Chemosh, the abomination of Moab, in the hill that is before 
 (that is, toward the east of) Jerusalem ; and for Molech, the 
 abomination of the children of Ammon." 1 Here there seems 
 to be a local accordance with the words of the prophet. In 
 the next place, a careful inspection of the spot in question, 
 quite suggests the idea that burials had been really so 
 multiplied there, that in Tophet, there was " no place" left 
 for more. Here seems to be a circumstantial accordance. 
 Every tomb is now empty and desolate, as if the carcases 
 of the buried generations had been meat for the fowls of the 
 heaven, and for the beasts of the earth; and in this there 
 appears something like a second circumstantial accordance. 
 
 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. One of the most picturesque, 
 and at the same time deeply interesting scenes, is the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat, viewed from the brow of the hill descending 
 from the high places of Tophct. There is a magnificence in 
 its outlining which lives in the memory. It cannot be 
 forgotten. The bed of the brook Kedron lies along the 
 lowest part of it ; and, on either side fig, olive, and pome- 
 granates cast a lovely shade, while gardens of melons and 
 cucumbers give an idea of fresh luxuriance. On either side 
 of the valley, the heights are terraced, and in some places 
 slightly cultivated; and the breadth of the valley is very 
 bold and striking. Independent of all the heart-stirring 
 associations which scripture narrative gives rise to, the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat, viewed from south to north, on the east side 
 of the city, is a scene in which a gifted painter would luxuriate. 
 On the right slope hangs the almost ruined village of Siloam ; 
 on the left, Ophel, Zion, and Mount Moriah, shewing the 
 noble site of the temple, full in the foreground of the picture, 
 magnificently. Passing off again to the right, the eye rests 
 upon the Mount of Olives, with its twofold ridge; and then, 
 glancing downwards and along the shady bed of the valley, 
 
 > 1 Kings xi. 110.
 
 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHArHAT. 261 
 
 the view is terminated by the ridges of hills northward of the 
 city. The sun was getting low when I first saw the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat from the point of view to which I have 
 referred ; and the deepened and lengthened shadows, with 
 the rich tintings of the sun, gave an indescribable lustre to it. 
 It was a truly noble landscape. 
 
 The Mahommedans have a belief, that the Prophet will 
 sit in judgment at the last day, and that the valley of 
 Jehoshaphat will be the scene of that transaction. Projecting 
 from the wall, above the golden gate, towards the valley, is a 
 large stone, which, according to general Musselman tradition, 
 will be the seat of judgment. This notion may somehow 
 have arisen out of a perverted view of those remarkable 
 passages in the prophet Joel. 1 " For, behold, in those days, 
 and in that time, when I shall bring again the captivity 
 of Judah and Jerusalem, I will also gather all nations, and will 
 bring them down into the valley of Jehoshaphat, and will plead 
 with them there for my people, and for my heritage Israel, 
 whom they have scattered among the nations, and parted my 
 
 land Let the heathen be awakened, and come up to 
 
 the valley of Jehoshaphat; for there will I sit to judge all the 
 heathen round about. Put ye in the sickle ; for the harvest is 
 ripe : come get you down ; for the press is full, the fats 
 overflow ; for the wickedness is great. Multitudes, multitudes 
 in the valley of decision ; for the day of the Lord is near in 
 the valley of decision. The sun and the moon shall be 
 darkened, and the stars shall withdraw their shining. The 
 Lord also shall roar out of Zion, and utter his voice from 
 Jerusalem ; and the heavens and the earth shall shake ; but 
 the Lord will be the hope of his people, and the strength 
 of the people of Israel." With a recollection of such passages 
 as these in the mind as yet unfulfilled by any events now 
 on record, there is a deep and solemn interest attaching itself 
 to every part of this noble valley. Whatever may be the full 
 scope of the prophecy it is evidently to be the scene of one 
 
 1 Chap. iii. 1, 2, 12-16.
 
 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSIIAPHA.T. 
 
 of Jehovah's most signal interventions on behalf of his people. 
 It was, indeed, with an awed mind that I walked in the valley 
 of Jehoshaphat. There I felt God had indeed been in 
 fulfilment of prophecy ; and there I was assured he will again 
 manifest himself in the triumphs of his grace. And in this 
 consideration lies much of the interest which one feels while 
 sojourning in Jerusalem. One line of prophecy has terminated 
 there; and others, yet in the womb of time, are rapidly 
 tending to the same point. What a concentration of vast 
 interest, then, is at this moment overhanging every hair-breadth 
 of that wondrous and mysterious spot of the earth. 
 
 Descending the high places of Tophet, we entered the 
 valley of Jehoshaphat at the southern end, where we found a 
 threshing floor, with several Arabs employed in winnowing 
 corn. In the midst of it is a deep ancient well, commonly 
 called Nehemiah's well; but most probably it is En-rogel, 
 that is, the fuller's fountain, which is described in the book of 
 Joshua as being on the south-east of Jerusalem, on the confines 
 of the tribes of Judah and Benjamin. 1 If this idea be correct, 
 then it was here that the ambitious aspirings of Adonijah to 
 the throne of Judah, were checked by the joyous proclamation 
 that Solomon was king ; for we read that Adonijah slew sheep 
 and oxen and fat cattle by the stone of Zoheleth, which is by 
 En-rogel, and called all his brethren the king's sons, and all 
 the men of Judah the king's servants, to feast and to solemnize 
 his anointing "and, behold," said the prophet Nathan, 
 "they eat and drink before him, and say, God save king 
 Adonijah." The shout was borne upon the breeze from 
 Gihon, and echoed by assembled thousands, "so that the 
 
 city rang again God save king Solomon." " And all 
 
 the guests that were with Adonijah were afraid, and rose up, 
 and went every man his way. And Adonijah feared because 
 of Solomon, and arose, and went, and caught hold on the 
 horns of the altar." 2 The Arabs now call this well Bir-Eyoub 
 (the well of Joab), perhaps in reference to the part taken by 
 Joab in the memorable transactions just referred to. 
 
 1 Joshua xv. 7, 8 ; xviii. 1C. 2 See the whole of 1 Kings i.
 
 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT. 263 
 
 Not far from this spot, but nearer towards the entrance to 
 the valley of Hinnom, stands an aged white mulberry tree, 
 casting its lengthened and spreading limbs over a wide space, 
 and generally affording shade to Arabs who recline beneath 
 it when the sun is high. It has been preserved with great 
 care; and its roots are fortified by a terrace or platform 
 of rough stones. It is said to mark the scene of the cruel 
 martyrdom of the prophet Isaiah, by the command of Manasseh; 
 but upon what kind of proof I am not prepared to say. 
 
 Further on in the valley of Jehoshaphat is the pool of Siloam, 
 and beyond it the fountain of Siloam, connected by an 
 underground conduit. The former is supplied by the latter. 
 And have these waters flowed on ever since the day, when 
 Jesus said to the blind man (having anointed his eyes with 
 clay), " Go wash in the pool of Siloam ?" Have they been 
 instrumental to the wonder-working power of the "Son of 
 man ?" Oh delightful reality to be assured of, when seeking 
 the stream at its fountain ! 
 
 Passing the village of Siloam, overhanging the valley on 
 the right, we reached the fountain. It is at the bottom 
 of a deep cavern partly artificial, as I conjecture, and 
 approached by two flights of steps formed in the rock 
 itself, worn almost dangerously smooth by frequent use. 
 We found many Arabs men and women, busily employed 
 in drawing up water in skins, standing up to their knees in 
 the fountain. Sheep, camels, and other cattle from Siloam, 
 were waiting around to receive their portion. We descended, 
 but were prevented tasting those waters "that go softly," 1 
 by reason of the defilement which the Arab employment 
 occasioned. But it is something to have been thus permitted 
 to gaze on them. 
 
 The valley of Jehoshaphat and its massive sides are rich in 
 objects of enduring interest. On the eastern side of the brook 
 
 1 Isaiah, viii. 6.
 
 THE VALLEY OF JEHOSIIAPHAT. 
 
 Kedron, immediately opposite that part of Mount Moriah 
 once occupied by the temple, is the Jewish burial-ground 
 of all ages. It is literally paved with small and roughly-hewn 
 slabs, having Hebrew inscriptions. To lay his bones in the 
 valley of Jehoshaphat, has been ever the object of earnest 
 desire with the devout Jew ; and many a weary pilgrimage 
 has been made from the most distant parts of Europe, in 
 order that another and another might have the privilege 
 of sleeping with his fathers in this valley. The Jewish heart 
 clings with infantine freshness to Jerusalem and her sacred 
 precincts. Distance does not diminish the attraction. Sorrow 
 and affliction only heighten it. But is it not an awful, an 
 overwhelming thought, that when every one of those graves 
 shall be opened by the power of Christ's resurrection, and 
 buried ages shall arise and stand before the triumphant 
 Messiah, their eyes the eyes of them that pierced, shall gaze 
 upon him, and wail because of him, 1 and mourn hopelessly 
 over that rooted unbelief which obscured every bright vision 
 of bliss in this life, and which will overhang with clouds 
 of despair, the morning of their resurrection ? 
 
 Advancing north ward, with the Mount of Olives still on the 
 right, and the battlcmented walls of the city on the left, there 
 are on the east side of the valley, several sepulchral monuments 
 of considerable antiquity, rendered interesting by being asso- 
 ciated with the names of Zechariah, James, Jehoshaphat and 
 Absalom ; in support of which there is, however, little more 
 than a vague tradition. These tombs, for the most part, have 
 the appearance of being constructed by the usual process 
 of masonry, but in reality they arc hewn out of the solid rock ; 
 and in a style of architecture partaking of the early Egyptian, 
 and the Greek ; " a link," as has been observed, " between the 
 Pyramids and the Parthenon." No entrance, either to the 
 tomb of Zechariah or Absalom, has yet been discovered ; and 
 they appear in reality to be solid within. Instead of actually 
 marking the places of sepulture, it seems most probable that 
 
 1 Revelation i. 7.
 
 TOMBS IN THE VALLEY OF JEIlOSHArHAT GETHSEMANE. 265 
 
 these structures are merely cenotaphs, commemorating and 
 committing to tradition, the memory of those persons whose 
 names they bear. That of Absalom, who was no doubt buried 
 in the wood where he perished, 1 may possibly be the pillar 
 which he had reared unto himself, in the king's dale. 2 There 
 is no doubt that the Jews believe this to be the case; and 
 they express their abhorrence of his name and character by 
 casting a stone at the tomb as they pass. Some persons 
 have argued for the positive antiquity of these tombs, by 
 alleging that the Grecian enrichments have been added in a 
 more modern age; and that such is the "garnishing" of the 
 sepulchres of the righteous to which our Lord referred, when 
 rebuking the Scribes and Pharisees for their hypocrisy. 3 
 But Dr. Clarke rejects the idea ; and thinks that the proof of 
 their antiquity is seen in the tombs themselves, notwithstanding 
 the admixture of Egyptian and Grecian styles. lie observes, 
 " The columns are of that ancient style and character which 
 yet appear among the works left by Ionian and Dorian 
 colonies, in the remains of their Asiatic cities ; particularly at 
 Telmessus, where even the inscriptions denote a period in 
 history long anterior to the era when such a modification of 
 these ancient structures might have taken place." 4 However, 
 without endeavouring to establish what at the best must be 
 conjectural, it is delightful to find here, under the very walls 
 of Jerusalem, a kind of evidence to prove, that the facts 
 of scripture history have lived in the memories of men of far 
 distant ages, in complete correspondence with the inspired 
 records. 
 
 GETHSEMANE. " Then cometh Jesus with them unto a 
 place called Gethsemane, and saith unto the disciples, Sit ye 
 here while I go and pray yonder. And he took with him 
 Peter and the two sons of Zebedee, and began to be sorrowful 
 and very heavy. Then saith he unto them, My soul is 
 
 2 Samuel xviii. 17. 2 2 Samuel xviii. 18. 3 Matthew xxiii. 29. 
 4 Dr. E. D. Claike, Vol. IV. 373, 374.
 
 266 GETIISEMANE. 
 
 exceeding sorrowful, even unto death: tarry ye here, and 
 watch with inc. And he went a little further, and fell on his 
 face, and prayed saying, O my Father, if it be possible, let 
 this cup pass from me ; nevertheless, not as I will, b*t as thou 
 wilt. And he comcth unto his disciples and findeth them 
 asleep, and saith unto Peter, What, could ye not watch with 
 me one hour? Watch and pray that ye enter not into 
 temptation : the spirit indeed is willing, but the flesh is weak. 
 He went away again the second time, and prayed saying, O my 
 Father, if this cup may not pass away from me except I drink 
 it, thy will be done. And he came and found them asleep 
 again : for their eyes were heavy. And he left them, and 
 went away again, and prayed the third time, saying 
 the same words. 'And there appeared an Angel unto him 
 from heaven, strengthening him. And being in an agony, 
 he prayed more earnestly: and his sweat was as it were 
 great drops of blood falling down to the ground.' 1 Then 
 cometh he to his disciples, and saith unto them, Sleep on 
 now, and take your rest ; behold the hour is at hand, and 
 the Son of man is betrayed into the hands of sinners. Rise, 
 let us be going : behold, he is at hand that doth betray me. 
 And while he yet spake, lo, Judas, one of the twelve, came, 
 and with him a great multitude with swords and staves, from 
 the chief priests and elders of the people. Now he that 
 betrayed him gave them a sign, saying, whomsoever I shall 
 kiss, that same is he : hold him fast. And forthwith he came 
 to Jesus, and said, Hail Master ; and kissed him. And Jesus 
 said unto him, Friend, wherefore art thou come? Then 
 came they and laid hands on Jesus, and took him. And 
 behold, one of them which were with Jesus, stretched out his 
 hand and drew his sword, and struck a servant of the High 
 Priest's, and smote off his ear. Then said Jesus unto him, 
 Put up again thy sword into his place : for all they that take 
 the sword shall perish with the sword. Thinkcst thou that I 
 cannot now pray to my Father, and he shall presently give 
 me more than twelve legions of angels ? But how then shall 
 
 1 Luke xxii. 13, 44.
 
 GETHSEMANE. 267 
 
 the scriptures be fulfilled, that thus it must be ? In that same 
 hour said Jesus to the multitudes, Are ye come out, as against 
 a thief, with swords and staves for to take me ? I sat daily 
 with you teaching in the temple, and ye laid no hold on me. 
 But all this was done, that the scriptures of the prophets 
 might be fulfilled. Then all the disciples forsook him and 
 fled. And they that had laid hold on Jesus, led him away to 
 Caiaphas the high priest, where the scribes and the elders 
 were assembled." 1 
 
 This narrative must be understood and felt in its mysterious 
 bearing upon the eternal prospects of our souls, before we 
 can tread the dust of Gethsemane with a fitting impression 
 of its sanctity. We must have a due sense of the marvellous 
 nature of that Almighty Being, from whose flesh there was 
 drawn forth the embittered avowal "My soul is exceeding 
 sorrowful even unto death ;" we must have some acquaintance 
 with the cause of that deep aad unutterable anguish of soul 
 which forced from his lips the reiterated petition, "O my 
 Father, if it be possible let this cup pass from me; never- 
 theless not as I will, but as thou wilt." And we must feel, 
 too, that calm and fixed determination of heart and of purpose 
 with which he stood forth, as the " Captain of our salvation," 
 to be made "perfect through sufferings," for the purpose of 
 "bringing many sons unto glory;" nor must we forget how 
 omnipotence gave way, for power to lay its malignant and 
 deadly hand upon him though we cannot enter into the 
 mystery of such submission; and when we have done all 
 this, and got our minds imbued with the deep and awful 
 pathos of the narrative, we have gone but little way if we 
 cannot add to it the appropriating assurance of faith, and say, 
 "All this was for me a lost sinner, and for my redemption." 
 
 Are you thus prepared? Then, come to Gethsemane? 
 
 weep, and be humbled there ; and thence let faith go upward 
 on her saving mission to the mercy seat. Tears of blood 
 
 1 Matt. xxvi. 3657.
 
 268 OETIISEMANE. 
 
 were there shed for you ; and faith more than human, was 
 there exercised for you ; and fidelity unparalleled, was there 
 displayed on your behalf. Come as a sinner should, who 
 knows that the Father "spared not" his only Son, "but 
 delivered him up" on that very spot "for us all," into the 
 hands of cruel and wicked men. Alas ! for the cause and 
 the need. 
 
 At the base of the Mount of Olives, just over the brook 
 Kedron, where the road to Jericho joins that to Bethany, 
 on your right hand, lies a bare and sterile plat of ground 
 surrounded by a wall of unhewn stone. It is shaded by 
 eight aged and gnarled olive trees, upon which the suns 
 of many centuries have risen and set. It is a place of loneliness 
 and seclusion, overhung by the Mount of Olives on the one 
 side, and the western heights of the valley of Jehoshaphat 
 and the embattled walls of Jerusalem on the other. It is just 
 such a spot as a soul, desiring to be. alone with God, would 
 choose, when the shades of evening were gathered over it. 
 Such is Gcthsemane. I have gazed down upon it from the 
 heights on either side. I have traversed again and again its 
 length and breadth. I have mused and meditated and prayed 
 beneath its venerable shade ; and in my mind it possesses a 
 charm beyond all other scenes in the world; for I cannot 
 doubt none I believe have ever doubted of its identity. 
 
 And to think, that to that very spot, " Jesus ofttimes 
 
 resorted with his disciples ;" that there God incarnate walked 
 and wept and agonized and prayed and submitted ! 
 
 That the olive trees now growing in Gethsemane have 
 sprung from the roots of those existing in our Lord's time, is 
 I think very probable. Their size, apparent age and general 
 character, indicate it. It is likely that the original trees were 
 standing when, in preparation for his seige, Titus cut down 
 all the timber around the city ; but there is no reason for 
 supposing that he would be at the labour and cost of removing 
 the roots of trees felled for such a purpose. It is well known 
 that the bole of the olive tree, when its trunk has been felled,
 
 GETHSEMANE THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 269 
 
 will in due time send forth shoots or suckers in great numbers, 
 which grow up intertwined, so as to form, one compacted 
 stem. Upon a careful examination of some of these venerable 
 trees, such is their appearance. They bear upon them the 
 proof of having grown in the manner I have described. Their 
 roots, which are very large and wide-spreading, are, in many 
 parts, far above the surface of the soil. They are protected 
 by earth and stones, heaped up against them. At the south- 
 eastern corner is a small space fenced off, which tradition has 
 marked as the scene of Judas's act of treachery. It is called 
 "terra damnata." Near that spot is a ledge of rock on which 
 it is said the disciples reclined when " their eyes were heavy." 
 But I needed not this attempt at minute identification, while 
 I knew, that somewhere within the compass of that small plat 
 of ground, the Saviour awaited the consummation of treachery, 
 and uttered the mild remonstrance "Judas, betrayest thou 
 the Son of man with a kiss ?" 
 
 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. The Valley of Jehoshaphat, the 
 Garden of Gethsemane, and the Mount of Olives are as 
 familiar to my memory while I write, as the scenes of my early 
 childhood. Scarcely a day passed in which I did not either 
 visit, or gaze on them at a distance, while sojourning in the 
 Holy City. Of the identity of the Mount of Olives there can 
 be no doubt whatever. Its relative position is distinctly stated 
 in scripture. It is said to be "before Jerusalem on the east." 1 
 It was this certainty, in regard to the main features of Judea, 
 that made me more indifferent to those minute particulars on 
 which religious enthusiasts have been wont to dwell, as seen 
 by them, through the misty medium of monkish tradition. 
 
 There are three particulars of the deepest interest which 
 take possession of the mind when contemplating the Mount 
 of Olives. The first is, that it Was the scene of David's sorrow 
 and humiliation, when he fled before the face of Absalom. 
 The whole narrative 2 is affecting in the highest degree : 
 
 1 Zechariah xiv. 4. 2 See the whole of 2 Samuel xv. and xvi.
 
 270 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
 
 "There came a messenger to David, saying, The hearts of the 
 men of Israel are after Absalom. And David said unto all 
 his servants that were with him at Jerusalem, Arise, and let 
 us flee; for we shall not else escape from Absalom. Make 
 speed to depart, lest he overtake us suddenly, and bring evil 
 
 upon us, and smite the city with the edge of the sword 
 
 And all the country wept with a loud voice, and all the 
 people passed over : the king also himself passed over the 
 brook Kcdron, and all the people passed over toward the way 
 of the wilderness. And, lo, Zadok also, and all the Lcvites 
 were with him, bearing the ark of the covenant of God : and 
 they set down the ark of God : and Abiathar went up, until 
 
 all the people had done passing out of the city And 
 
 David went up by the ascent of Mount Olivet, and wept as 
 he went up, and had his head covered ; and he went barefoot : 
 and all the people that was with him covered every man his 
 head, and they went up, weeping as they went up. And one 
 told David, saying, Ahithophel is among the conspirators with 
 Absalom. And David said, Lojd, I pray thee, turn the 
 council of Ahithophel into foolishness. And it came to pass, 
 
 that when David was come to the top of the mount, he 
 
 worshipped God." The troubles of David have ceased : the 
 deceitful counsel of Ahithophel prevails not; the treason 
 of Absalom is powerless ; the sound of weeping is hushed, and 
 the signs of humiliation are no longer seen : the dust of the 
 grave is mingled with the dust of David, of Zadok, Abiathar, 
 and the multitudes who accompanied the weeping monarch 
 but there lies the path which they trod it is the same : the 
 bed of the brook Kedron is the same : the Mount of Olives is 
 the same. The memory of David, of his glory and his troubles, 
 has long grown old ; but the scenes in which he wept and 
 worshipped and triumphed, are the realities of all time. 
 
 But a greater and more glorious one than David, and one 
 more humbled and abased than he, has sanctified the Mount 
 of Olives, with his frequent his habitual presence. It was 
 Jesus of Nazareth God manifest in the flesh. Yes God 
 incarnate trod those very paths, which my sinful feet so
 
 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 71 
 
 often pressed; and ascended those slopes, over which I many 
 times essayed to follow him in spirit. If He chose the 
 Garden of Gethsemane and its lonely seclusion, as the scene 
 of his last spiritual agony before his betrayal, it was to the 
 Mount of Olives that he resorted from the din and stir of the 
 city, and the strife of tongues to pour out his soul in secret 
 communion with the Father, to meditate on the marvels and 
 mysteries of redemption, and to brace up his human energies 
 for an achievement, the glory of which should be seen 
 throughout the world, and felt eternally in the universe. If it 
 was 011 Calvary that he determined, by dying, to abolish 
 death and to bring immortality to light by the gospel it 
 was from Mount Olivet that he ascended up on high leading 
 captivity captive ; and it was there too that he condescended 
 to give to his church one of the most distinct assurances 
 of his second coming ; for while his wondering disciples beheld 
 him taken up, and the cloud receiving him out of their 
 sight behold two men stood by them in white apparel 
 (heavenly messengers of his own providing), who also said, 
 Ye men of Galilee, why stand ye gazing up into heaven ? 
 This same Jesus, which is taken up from you into heaven, 
 shall so come in like manner, as ye have seen him go into 
 heaven. 1 And if there was any thing capable of nerving the 
 hearts of his amazed disciples in the prospect of being left 
 in trust with the gospel, in the midst of a stubborn and 
 perverse generation, who had imbrued their hands in his 
 blood and cried "His blood be upon us and upon our 
 children ;" if any thing that could make them hopeful and 
 determined in the fulfilment of their high commission derived 
 from him it was the promise and divine assurance which he 
 gave them on that sacred mount "Ye shall receive power, 
 after that the Holy Ghost is come upon you, and ye shall be 
 witnesses unto me, both in Jerusalem, and in all Judea, and 
 in Samaria, and unto the uttermost part of the earth." How 
 aifectingly solemn must have been the picture, when the 
 bereaved disciples, with heads bowed low upon their bosoms, 
 
 1 See Acts i. 9 11.
 
 273 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
 
 returned down those venerated heights glanced with absorbing 
 recollection on the Garden of Gcthsemane as they passed, 
 and entered the Holy City, which had so recently been the 
 scene of the most marvellous transactions ever recorded, either 
 in the word of truth or in the heart of man ; how heart-stirring 
 must have been the first solemn meeting in that "upper 
 room, where abode, both Peter and James and John and 
 Andrew, 1'hilip and Thomas, Bartholomew and Matthew, 
 James the son of Alphcus, and Simon Zelotes, and Judas the 
 brother of James," where they "all continued with one 
 accord in prayer and supplication, with the women, and Mary 
 the mother of Jesus and with his brethren." And it is a 
 deep sense and perception of these things, in all their reality, 
 with more than the heart can utter as associated with them, 
 which pervades the mind, when standing under the walls 
 of Jerusalem, and gazing upwards to the Mount of Olives. I 
 never felt more than at this moment, while I am writing, 
 the feebleness of a man's pen to develop to others the inward 
 impressions of his heart, made by an undoubted sense 
 of divine truths, and the presence of scenes from which they 
 sprung forth in all their vastness and magnificence. As a 
 redeemed soul I stood amidst the scenes of my redemption. 
 Faith could look around ; and without a single doubt to break 
 in upon the absorbing vision, could exclaim here, from this 
 very spot has burst forth every ray of that blessed hope, to 
 which the tearful eyes of guilty, repenting and believing men 
 may securely turn. 
 
 There is a day coming (is it far distant ? Lord hasten it !) 
 a day in which there will be heard a cry which sin shall not 
 check, nor prejudice confound, nor unbelief stifle a cry that 
 shall ring throughout Jerusalem, and on the top of every 
 mountain, and in the depths of every valley of Judea; 
 thousands shall utter it; thousands shall rejoice in it ; millions 
 will wither at it; the dead shall hear it from the dust 
 of dissolution in which they have slumbered since the streams 
 of time flowed on with those of death ; and the cry will be 
 "BLESSED BE HE THAT COMETH IN THE NAME OF THE
 
 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 73 
 
 LORD;" and Mount Olivet will be the scene, not of a Saviour's 
 humiliation as it has been, but of his final and glorious 
 triumph, when he shall come to gather all nations to bring 
 them down into the valley of Jehoshaphat, and to plead 
 with them there for his people and for his heritage Israel : 
 when the heathen shall be awakened and come up into the 
 valley of Jehoshaphat, and when He will sit to judge all the 
 heathen round about: yes "His feet shall stand in that day 
 upon the Mount of Olives, which is before Jerusalem on the 
 east; and the Mount of Olives shall cleave in the midst 
 thereof toward the east and toward the west, and there shall 
 be a very great valley : and half of the mountain shall remove 
 toward the north, and half of it toward the south." 1 What a 
 clustering of august associations does the mind at once perceive 
 around the Mount of Olives. The lapse of more than eighteen 
 centuries has not diminished, but heightened them. 
 
 With humbled and adoring hearts, let us ascend the 
 Mount. As we pass the Garden of Gethsemane let us pause 
 a moment, and weep with the tears of a godly sorrow, and 
 believe with renewed energy of faith. It were a blessed 
 exercise for the soul. 
 
 Those two rugged pathways which mark the face of the 
 Mount, and a third which winds off to the south, under its 
 brow, all lead to Bethany. Fig, olive, and pomegranate 
 trees overshadow them here and there. The ascent is some- 
 times steep ; but the emotions of the heart give agility to the 
 footsteps. Midway upwards, we reach the spot from which 
 tradition says that the Lord Jesus beheld Jerusalem and wept 
 over it a point from which every part of the city is visible ; 
 and it seems to stand on an elevation equal to that from which 
 it is viewed, while the extreme clearness of the atmosphere 
 helps to exhibit its details in all their minuteness. When Jesus 
 beheld the city and wept over it the temple was there^-in 
 the forefront, on Mount Moriah ; and the glory which has 
 
 1 Zechariah xiv. 4.
 
 274 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 
 
 departed, was there to. The Jewish heart was big with its 
 own vain swellings ; and pride and unbelief were at their 
 height amidst the thousands of Jerusalem, while Jesus gazed 
 on their noble habitation, and traced the secret, as well as the 
 open workings of every soul within it, and knew the intentions 
 of the Father's mind, while he yearned over a people whom 
 he loved even in their apostacy and hardness. Oh ! it was an 
 awful moment. "When he was come near, he beheld the 
 city and wept over it, saying, If thou hadst known, even thou, 
 at least in this thy day, the things which belong unto thy 
 peace ! but now they are hid from thine eyes. For the days 
 shall come upon thee, that thine enemies shall cast a trench 
 about thee, and compass thee round, and keep thee in on 
 every side, and shall lay thee even with the ground, and thy 
 children within thee : and they shall not leave in thee one 
 stone upon another; because thou knewest not the time 
 of thy visitation." 1 It was indeed a heart-stirring thing, to 
 hear, as it were, on that very spot within sight of Jerusalem 
 herself, the voice of Jesus speaking as a prophet; and, looking 
 forwards and around, to behold the real traces of an exact 
 fulfilment, achieved by himself as the mighty God of Hosts. 
 History became reality as we gazed upon the scene. 
 
 The view from the western slopes of the Mount of Olives 
 is, as a picture only, extremely magnificent colour, form, 
 composition all are in the finest order : but the mind, however, 
 touched by such things as these, in scenes with which no 
 hallowing recollection is associated, soon wanders from the 
 mere picture, and gives itself up to reflectiveness. On what 
 do my eyes now rest? On Mount Moriah; and one seems to 
 hear a voice, sounding back from buried ages " My father, 
 behold the fire and the wood, but where is the lamb for a 
 burnt offering ?" I continue to gaze, and think how David 
 the king, when the Lord sent an angel to Jerusalem to 
 destroy it with pestilence because he had numbered the 
 people, lifted up his eyes and saw the angel of the Lord stand 
 
 1 Luke xix. 41 44.
 
 THE MOUNT OF OLIVES. 275 
 
 between the earth and the heaven, having a sword drawn in 
 his hand, stretched out over Jerusalem ; and how he and the 
 elders of Israel, who were clothed in sackcloth, fell upon their 
 faces : and how David said unto God, " Is it not I that com- 
 manded the people to be numbered ? Even I it is that have 
 sinned and done evil indeed : but as for these sheep, what 
 have they done ? Let thine hand I pray thee, O Lord my 
 God, be on me and on my father's house, but not on thy 
 people that they should be plagued." It seems but the 
 transaction of yesterday. And as I still linger about the Holy 
 City and its precincts, I remember that there God dwelt 
 between the cherubim in the house which Solomon had built 
 for Him, whom the heaven and the heaven of heavens cannot 
 contain : that there, morning and evening, was slain the lamb 
 which typified an availing sacrifice under a better covenant ; 
 that there too, the testimony was given, that the way into the 
 holiest by the blood of Jesus, was made manifest, by the 
 rending of the vail of the temple from the top to the bottom ; 
 that not far distant was heard, amidst the prevailing darkness, 
 from the sixth to the ninth hour, that bitter and mysterious 
 cry Eli, Eli, lama sabacthani My God, my God why hast 
 thou forsaken me? and the last agonizing triumphant 
 declaration "It is finished .'" that there the earth did quake, 
 and the rocks were rent, and the graves were opened; that there 
 too, after an awful and dread suspense, the purpose of God 
 in Christ, prevailed over unbelieving malignity and the fact 
 was divinely declared "I know that ye seek Jesus which 
 was crucified. He is not here; for HE is RISEN, AS HE 
 SAID." 
 
 The view from the Mount and from its slopes eastward, is 
 extensive and delightful; embracing, as it does, so many 
 interesting scripture localities, such as the chain of the 
 mountains of Moab, and parts of the Dead Sea, towards 
 the east and south-east the valley, and part of the plains 
 of Jordan ; and beyond these, though not admitting of exact 
 distinction, are Bethpeor, Gilead, Pisgah, and the height 
 of Mount Nebo : while to the north-west stands Ramah the
 
 276 BETHANY. 
 
 birth-place of Samuel. In the foreground, on every side, 
 the eye traverses a vast, ocean-like undulation of bare and 
 arid mountain-tops and valleys. On the eastern side of the 
 Mount, about two miles distant from Jerusalem, lies Bethany 
 that centre point of so many tender and delightful recollec- 
 tions but not visible from any spot that I could find. I 
 gathered a few olive leaves from the sacred and venerable 
 soil ; and when I look on them, my mind is crowded with 
 associations which cannot pass away while the power of 
 memory lasts. I quit the Mount of Olives with reluctance. 
 I could invite my reader to wander about it with me for hours; 
 but my narrow limits forbid the enjoyment. 
 
 BETHANY. It was the home of Martha, of Mary, and of 
 Lazarus. It was our blessed Lord's chosen and beloved place 
 of resort ; and where words of heavenly wisdom flowed from 
 his lips into the ears of the listening attentive Mary. How 
 often his sacred feet have pressed the path by which we 
 approached; and how honoured was it on that memorable 
 occasion, when there was fulfilled in him the saying of the 
 prophet "Tell ye the daughter of Zion, Behold thy king 
 cometh unto thee, meek and sitting upon an ass, and a colt, 
 the foal of an ass," and when a very great multitude spread 
 their garments in the way ; while others cut down branches 
 from the trees and strawed them in the way ; and when the 
 multitudes that went before, and that followed, cried, saying 
 Hosanna to the Son of David ! Blessed is he that cometh in 
 the name of the Lord ; Hosanna in the highest. 1 
 
 It was a lovely afternoon when we set out for Bethany. 
 And Bethany is a lovely spot, though but a scene of ruin and 
 poverty. It is inhabited by a few families of Fellaheen Arabs, 
 who gain a scanty subsistence from their flocks, and small 
 cultivation round about. Though occupying an elevated 
 site, it is yet overshadowed, on the north and west, by 
 the Mount of Olives; and, looking towards the south-east, 
 
 1 Matthew xxi. 8, &c.
 
 BETHANY. 77 
 
 presents a view of parts of the plains of Jordan and the 
 Dead Sea. It is rather thickly surrounded and interspersed 
 with fig, almond, olive and pomegranate trees; and though 
 the soil is good, yet, for the most part, it lies miserably 
 neglected. It is a place of the most charming seclusion, 
 such as imagination would picture as a fitting scene for 
 that retirement which the quiet spirit of our adorable 
 
 Redeemer loved and sought. And where is Lazarus 
 
 where Mary where Martha ? And where is the roof under 
 which the family which Jesus loved, so frequently received 
 their divine and condescending guest? Where was it that 
 Jesus and Mary sat when with tender earnestness he 
 reproved the " cumbered " Martha, admonishing her that but 
 one thing was needful, and reminding her that Mary had 
 chosen the good part which should not be taken from her? 
 Where too is the tomb at which "Jesus wept," and in the 
 energy of his resurrection-power, cried " Lazarus, come forth," 
 and "he that was dead came forth, bound hand and foot with 
 grave clothes?" Tradition only is left to give the doubtful 
 answer ; and it is enough for the heart in which a realizing 
 faith has taken up its abode. This, thought I, is Bethany 
 of that fact there is no doubt. And hereabouts, Martha, 
 Mary and Lazarus dwelt here Jesus sojourned here Lazarus 
 arose from the dead. It was not with any strong sense 
 of identity, that I descended into the tomb to which local 
 tradition directed us. I just felt that it might be so; and 
 that there, in that dark cavern, Jesus gave proof of his 
 declaration "I am the resurrection and the life." The 
 descent to the tomb, shewn as that of Lazarus, is made by 
 twenty-six steps, formed from the rock in which the tomb 
 itself has been cut. It is perfectly, dark, and can be explored 
 only by the light of tapers. The steps lead to a chamber 
 of, perhaps, twelve feet square, and of sufficient height for 
 a person to stand without stooping. From this there is 
 a second descent, communicating with a smaller vault, but 
 of sufficient size to hold three or four bodies. This latter is 
 said to be the place of sepulture from which the resurrection 
 of Lazarus was effected. I have no satisfactory grounds on
 
 78 - BETHANY THE ROAD TO EMMAUS. 
 
 which to doubt the actual identity of this tomb ; and the 
 disposition of my mind is rather to cherish than discard this 
 idea. But whether the tradition be rightly founded or not, 
 yet there is no doubt that it exhibits the kind of tomb in 
 which the dead body of Lazarus was laid. We found some 
 pilgrims at Bethany Russians and Germans who seemed 
 fully to enter into the tradition. 
 
 The recollection of Bethany, with its charming seclusion 
 and holy associations, often steals through my mind, when 
 anxiety and care and trial make my heart crave for repose. 
 But farewell to Bethany, in its reality. The mental picture 
 is as permanent as the mind on which it is traced. We 
 returned to Jerusalem by the southern height of the Mount 
 of Olives, through the village of Siloam, the valley of Hinnora, 
 and entered by the Zion gate. 
 
 THE ROAD TO EMMAUS, &c. Quitting Jerusalem at the 
 Bethlehem gate, you wind off in a north-westerly direction, 
 and soon enter upon the road leading to Emmaus, Jaffa, 
 and Ramleh. We did not visit Emmaus, but were desirous 
 of traversing some part of that road in which the Lord Jesus 
 presented himself to two of the disciples after his resurrection. 
 The distance of the remains of Emmaus from Jerusalem 
 exactly accords, I believe, with the scripture narrative which 
 makes it "about three score furlongs." I thought of those 
 two disciples as they journeyed on, talking together of the 
 marvellous things which had recently happened in Jerusalem ; 
 and of Jesus drawing near to them as they communed 
 together and reasoned: "What manner of communications 
 are these that ye have one to another, as ye walk and are 
 
 sad ?" "Art thou only a stranger in Jerusalem, and 
 
 hast not known the things which are come to pass in these 
 
 days?" "What things?" "Concerning Jesus 
 
 of Nazareth," which was a prophet mighty in deed and word 
 before God and all the people ; and how the chief priests 
 and our rulers delivered him to be condemned to death, and 
 have crucified him. But we trusted that it had been he
 
 THE ROAD TO EMMAUS. 279 
 
 which should have redeemed Israel; and, beside all this, 
 to-day is the third day since these things were done. Yea, and 
 certain women also of our company made us astonished, 
 which were early at the sepulchre ; and when they found not 
 his body, they came, saying that they had also seen a vision 
 of angels, which said that he was alive. And certain of them 
 which were with us went to the sepulchre, and found it even 
 
 as the women had said ; but him they saw not." " O 
 
 fools, and slow of heart to believe all that the prophets have 
 spoken ! Ought not Christ to have suffered these things, and 
 to enter into his glory? And beginning at Moses, and all 
 the prophets, he expounded unto them in all the scriptures the 
 things concerning himself." While dwelling on this affecting 
 narrative, I could well conceive of the two disciples saying, 
 " Did not our heart burn within us, while he talked with 
 us by the way, and while he opened to us the scriptures ?" 
 Of what a heavenly teaching, from the lips of the risen 
 Saviour, was this road to Emmaus the scene. What a grasp 
 of exposition beginning at Moses and the prophets passing 
 through all the scriptures ! Prophecy and type, shadow and 
 symbol all brought out in their full blaze of truth, were made 
 to concentrate their bright rays in one focus upon himself. 
 
 The road to Emmaus is evidently the ancient one. It is 
 now extremely rugged, and covered with large rough stones. 
 From this road we turned off, after a while, upon that leading 
 to Damascus. I thought of Saul, who on that very road 
 went forth, in the days of his unholy and misdirected zeal, 
 " breathing out threatenings and slaughter against the 
 disciples of the Lord ;" and I could but contrast the spirit in 
 which he returned to Jerusalem, having seen the Lord by 
 the way. He went forth a bitter persecutor. He returned a 
 humble and devoted believer. Turning off again towards the 
 north, into the valley of the Kedron, we proceeded to visit 
 the "tombs of the kings," as they are usually called; but as 
 it would seem, without sufficient warrant. The royal place 
 of sepulture was, in all probability, within the walls of the 
 city on Mount Zion. The tombs are, however, exceedingly
 
 280 TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 
 
 curious, and serve admirably to illustrate the manner of 
 sepulture among the wealthier Jews; and were such, no 
 doubt, as Job had in mind, when he said, "Now should I 
 have lain still and been quiet, I should have slept ; then had 
 I been at rest with kings and counsellors of the earth, which 
 built desolate places for themselves." 1 
 
 A path hewn in the rock, leads down into a large area, 
 in which stands a bold and spreading mulberry tree. The 
 sides of the area are carefully squared. The entrance to the 
 sepulchres is in the form of a portico, with exquisitely 
 enriched cornices, and entablature, in which fruits and 
 foliage are the principal ornaments. There is a great fresh- 
 ness still visible in this elaborate sculpture. On the left side 
 of the portico, is the direct way of access to the several 
 chambers ; but so blocked up with stones as to be approached 
 only by considerable compression of the limbs. I cannot give 
 so good a description of the interior as that already afforded 
 by Maundrell. " But within, you arrive in a large fair room, 
 about seven or eight yards square, cut out of the natural 
 rock. Its sides and ceiling are so exactly square, and its 
 angles so just, that no architect with levels and plummets 
 could build a room more regular ; and the whole is so firm 
 and entire, that it may be called a chamber hollowed out 
 of one piece of marble. From this room you pass into six 
 more, one within another, all of the same fabric with the first. 
 Of these, the two innermost are deeper than the rest, having 
 a second descent of about six or seven steps into them." 
 
 "In every one of these rooms, except the first, were coffins 
 of stone, placed in niches in the sides of the chambers. They 
 had been at first covered with handsome lids, and carved 
 with garlands ; but now, most of them were broke to pieces 
 by sacrilegious hands. The sides and ceilings of the rooms 
 were always dropping with the moist damps condensing 
 upon them, to remedy which nuisance, and to preserve these 
 
 1 Job iii. 13, 11.
 
 TOMBS OF THE KINGS A LUNATIC. 281 
 
 chambers of the dead polite and clean, there was in each 
 room a small channel cut in the floor, which served to 
 drain the drops that fall constantly into it. But the most 
 surprising thing belonging to these subterraneous chambers, 
 was their doors, of which there is only one that remains 
 hanging, being left, as it were, on purpose to puzzle beholders. 
 It consisted of a plank of stone, of about six inches in thickness, 
 and in its other dimensions equalling the size of an ordinary 
 door, or somewhat less. It was carved in such a manner as 
 to resemble a piece of wainscot. The stone of which it was 
 made, was visibly of the same kind with the whole rock ; and 
 it turned upon two hinges in the nature of axles. These 
 hinges were of the same entire piece of stone with the door, 
 and were contained in two holes of the immoveable rock, one 
 at the top and the other at the bottom." 1 
 
 As we were returning, we found a poor lunatic woman, 
 whose dwelling was among the tombs, sitting on some 
 fragments of stone. We were informed that there were two 
 others, in like manner inhabiting those scenes of death and 
 decay; but we saw only this one. She was a melancholy 
 object. It is a common thing now, as in our Lord's time, for 
 helpless lunatics thus to flee from the ordinary habitations 
 of men, and to dwell in a restless secluded manner among the 
 tombs. There was a day, when a voice could have said 
 "Come forth thou unclean spirit," and its behest would have 
 been obeyed, leaving the poor sufferer sitting clothed, and in 
 her right mind. But that day is now past. 
 
 Riding towards the northern side of the city, we went 
 through extensive olive grounds, a few vineyards, and 
 several plats of ground planted with tobacco; and having 
 approached near the Damascus gate, we visited a cave formed 
 in a ledge of rock, said by the monks, to be the place in 
 
 1 Maundrcll's Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem, pp. 76, 77; edition, 1721. 
 The door referred to by Maundrell has been removed from its place, and now 
 lies on the floor.
 
 282 THE TOOL OF BETIIESDA. 
 
 which Jeremiah wrote his hook of Lamentations ; and also a 
 muddy subterraneous place, affirmed to be the dungeon, the 
 filthy dungeon in which the prophet was so cruelly confined 
 by consent of king Zcdekiah, till delivered through the 
 interference of Ebed Mclech. 1 But where is the proof? 
 
 THE POOL OF BETHESDA. Just within the walls of the 
 city, on the eastern side, and near St. Stephen's gate, is a dry 
 reservoir, the dimensions of which are length, three hundred 
 and sixty feet ; breadth, one hundred and thirty feet ; depth, 
 about seventy feet. It is surrounded by a parapet ; and on the 
 north and west particularly, it is surmounted by the buildings 
 of the city. It is a deposit for rubbish, and contains in some 
 parts an overgrowth of herbage and a few trees. This is 
 generally affirmed to be the pool of Bethesda. Its position 
 renders it credible. The pool of Bethesda was certainly near 
 the site of the temple, as this is, and not far distant from one 
 of the city gates. This, as I have already said, is near St. 
 Stephen's gate. And besides, there is no other spot in 
 Jerusalem, at the present day, which can support a counter 
 claim. Often, as I passed the pool of Bethesda, did my mind 
 recur to that affecting narrative " Now there is at Jerusalem, 
 by the sheep market, a pool, which is called in the Hebrew 
 tongue, Bethesda, having five porches. In these lay a great 
 multitude of impotent folk, of blind, halt, withered, waiting 
 for the moving of the water. For an angel went down at a 
 certain season into the pool, and troubled the water; whosoever 
 then first, after the troubling of the water, stepped in, was 
 made whole of whatsoever disease he had. And a certain 
 man was there, which had an infirmity thirty and eight years. 
 When Jesus saw him lie, and knew that he had been now a 
 long time in that case, he saith unto him, Wilt thou be made 
 whole ? The impotent man answered him, Sir, I have no man, 
 when the waters are troubled, to put me into the pool : 
 but while I am coming another steppeth down before me. 
 Jesus saith unto him, Rise, take up thy bed and walk. And 
 
 1 Jeremiah xsxviii.
 
 MY FIRST SABBATH IN JERUSALEM. 283 
 
 immediately the man was made whole, and took up his bed 
 and walked." 1 
 
 Having now touched, as far as my limits will allow, upon 
 the principal scenes and objects of sacred interest in and about 
 Jerusalem, I resume the order of my journal. 
 
 July 19th. The Lord's day my first sabbath in Jerusalem. 
 Having been deprived of the public ordinances of the Church 
 since quitting Naples, I looked forward during all my desert- 
 route, with no small anticipation of joy, to the delightful 
 prospect of joining in worship -with the little church 
 assembling on Mount Zion. How great the mercy of God, 
 in permitting this sweet sabbath season to dawn upon me in 
 Jerusalem. I had, soon after my arrival, enjoyed the 
 happiness of being welcomed to the Holy City by the good 
 Bishop; and on the Sunday morning while I was musing 
 upon the sacred exercises in which I hoped soon to join, I 
 received a kind note from him, inviting me to read prayers. 
 To be permitted to kneel as a humble worshipper on Mount 
 Zion, was, I felt, quite enough : but I could not forego the 
 spiritual delight of leading the devotions of others, on that 
 sacred spot. It was an occasion which filled my heart with a 
 calm joy. The service was conducted in a small temporary 
 chapel an " upper room," in which some of the first efforts 
 of Mr. Nicolayson were made. There was an air of primitive 
 simplicity about it, according well with the position which we 
 at present occupy in Jerusalem. It overlooks the site on 
 which the new church is in process of erection. The 
 congregation consisted of about thirty persons. I listened 
 with edification and thankfulness to a sermon from the Kev. 
 Mr. Ewald, from John iv. 24 "God is a Spirit, and they 
 that worship him, must worship him in spirit and in truth." 
 I felt as if I had a spiritual home on Mount Zion ; and, while 
 participating the holy exercises of the day, it seemed as 
 if, after long wandering in unchristian lands, where all is 
 
 1 John v. 29.
 
 284 MY FIRST SABBATH IN JERUSALEM. 
 
 wondrous and unfamiliar, I had at length come again within 
 the green pastures of life, and was being gently led beside the 
 waters of quietness. 
 
 The Bishop kindly invited us to attend evening service at 
 his own residence, where it is usually conducted. The 
 windows of the room in which we assembled, looked over 
 the city towards the Mount of Olives, on which the setting 
 sun was shedding his last beams as we prepared for the 
 service. It was a scene of sweetest serenity and beauty. 
 To worship within sight of the Mount of Olives there was 
 indeed something charming in the idea. We spent a happy 
 sabbath evening one which memory has often delighted to 
 recall. The good Bishop in kindly consideration of our 
 arrival, gave notice of the sacrament of the Lord's Supper 
 for the following Sunday, that we might there on Mount 
 Zion, have an opportunity of commemorating our adorable 
 Redeemer's dying love ; in addition to which, he invited me 
 to preach on that occasion. I could not hesitate ; though I 
 felt a humbling sense of my unworthiness to proclaim Christ 
 in his own royal city. Never did I look forward to a coming 
 sabbath with an interest so deep and solemn. 
 
 The intense heat of the sun made us glad to keep within 
 the walls of the convent during the most trying hours of the 
 day, while we sojourned in the Holy City. But we made 
 frequent excursions, as we were able, so as to get an idea of its 
 present state and condition : sometimes traversing its streets, 
 at others, ascending the walls and poring among ruins. It is 
 impossible to describe the loneliness which prevails at almost 
 every part, except in those which are occupied by bazaars. 
 The streets are mostly very narrow ; and on either side, near 
 the houses, there are raised footways, below which the horse 
 and camel path lies, sometimes at a depth of eighteen inches 
 or two feet. The surface of the stones is perfectly smooth, so 
 as to require some caution in passengers, whether on foot or 
 on horseback. Every aspect of Jerusalem is impressive to 
 those who view it in the light of holy scripture.
 
 THE NEW JERUSALEM. 85 
 
 While marking and musing upon the sadness which seems 
 to overhang the " City of the great King," while trodden down 
 of the Gentiles, often did my mind recur to the glowing 
 picture of the New Jerusalem, coining down from God, 
 adorned as a bride for her husband, as revealed by the Spirit 
 to the beloved disciple at Patmos ; often did I seem to hear 
 the voice of Him who sat upon the throne, declaring, 
 "Behold, I make all things new." The prophetic description 
 of the New Jerusalem (whatever may be the extent of its 
 mystical signification) expands before the imagination, while 
 gazing on the desolation of the old. "And there came unto 
 me one of the seven angels which had the seven phials full 
 of the seven last plagues, and talked with me, saying, Come 
 hither, I will shew thee the bride, the Lamb's wife. And 
 he carried me away in the spirit, to a great and high mountain, 
 and shewed me that great city, the holy Jerusalem, descending 
 out of heaven from God, having the glory of God : and her 
 light was like unto a stone most precious, and like a jasper 
 stone, clear as crystal; and had a wall great and high, and 
 had twelve gates, and at the gates twelve angels, and names 
 written thereon, which are the names of the twelve tribes 
 of the children of Israel : on the east, three gates ; on the north, 
 three gates ; on the south, three gates ; and on the west, 
 three gates. And the wall of the city had twelve foundations, 
 and in them, the names of the twelve apostles of the Lamb. 
 And he that talked with me had a golden reed to measure 
 the city, and the gates thereof, and the walls thereof. And 
 the city lieth foursquare, and the length is as large as the 
 breadth : and he measured the city with the reed, twelve 
 thousand furlongs. The length and the breadth and the 
 height of it are equal. And he measured the wall thereof, 
 an hundred and forty and four cubits, according to the 
 measure of a man, that is, of the angel. And the building 
 of the wall of it was of jasper : and the city was pure gold, 
 like unto clear glass. And the foundations of the wall of the 
 city were garnished with all manner of precious stones. The 
 first foundation was jasper ; the second, sapphire ; the third, 
 a chalcedony; the fourth, an emerald; the fifth, sardonyx;
 
 286 THE NEW JERUSALEM. 
 
 the sixth, sartlius ; the seventh, chrysolyte ; the eighth, beryl ; 
 the ninth, a topaz ; the tenth, a chrysoprasus ; the eleventh, 
 a jacinth ; the twelfth, an amethyst. And the twelve gates 
 were twelve pearls ; every several gate was of one pearl : and 
 the street of the city was pure gold, as it were transparent 
 glass. And I saw no temple therein : for the Lord God 
 Almighty and the Lamb are the temple of it. And the city 
 had no need of the sun, neither of the moon, to shine in it : 
 for the glory of God did lighten it, and the Lamb is the light 
 thereof. And the nations of them which are saved shall walk 
 in the light of it ; and the kings of the earth do bring their 
 glory and honour into it. And the gates of it shall not be 
 shut at all by day ; for there shall be no night there. And 
 they shall bring the glory and honour of the nations into it. 
 And there shall in no wise enter into it any thing that 
 defileth, neither whatsoever worketh abomination, or maketh 
 a lie; but they which are written in the Lamb's book of 
 life." 1 
 
 " Behold, I make all things new." It is to a grand process 
 of renovation that both the provisions and promises of the 
 gospel bid us look ; and surely never can faith and hope act 
 more intensely upon the prospect, than when the eye rests on 
 the desolation of Judea, and the depression of Jerusalem ; and 
 when the heart contemplates the tribes of God's scattered 
 people Israel. "When the Lord shall build up Zion, he 
 shall appear in his glory." 
 
 The number of Jews resident at Jerusalem is estimated at 
 between five and six thousand ; and in Palestine, altogether, 
 at about ten thousand; but it is not easy to obtain very 
 accurate information; for they themselves are unwilling to 
 supply it, and are frequently swept away in great 
 numbers by the plague. There is, however, a continual 
 reinforcement of their numbers from various parts of Europe. 
 A small portion of the resident Jews are engaged in little 
 
 1 Rev. xxi. 927.
 
 THE JEWS IN PALESTINE. 287 
 
 tradings, but constantly exposed to the oppression of the 
 Turks. It appears that no part of the land of their fathers 
 is at present cultivated by Jews. They are indeed strangers 
 and sojourners only, in their own patrimony; and from the 
 nominally Christian communities the Greeks, the Armenians, 
 and the Roman Catholics, they are said to experience the 
 working of a spirit as bitter as that which the Turks display 
 towards them. If you meet a solitary Jew in Jerusalem, 
 he gives you the idea of a man walking in expectation 
 of being stoned or insulted. As a body, they are divided ; 
 hatreds, jealousies, and animosities prevail sadly amongst 
 them. And as soon as any one is discovered to be an inquirer 
 into Christian doctrines, he is deprived of all share of the 
 funds remitted from Europe. 
 
 The number of Jews increased in Palestine considerably 
 during the first five years of the government of Mehemet 
 All ; but within the last two or three years there has been 
 but little increase. Most Jews who go to Palestine, are at an 
 advanced period of life ; and probably but ill prepared 
 for those changes in climate and habit to which they are 
 obliged to submit. The frequent recurrence of the plague, 
 combined with other causes, seems to have acted as a 
 hindrance to their increase, of late years. The reasons said to 
 influence the desire of Jews to return to their own ancient 
 territories are these : 1. The common belief among them, 
 that every Jew who dies out of the land, must perform a 
 subterraneous passage back to it, in order that he may rise 
 from the dead in the valley of Jehoshaphat, where thousands 
 of their fathers lie buried. 2. They have a notion, that to 
 die in their own land, renders their final salvation certain, 
 though it will not exempt them from "the beating in the 
 grave, and the eleven months of purgatory." 3. They believe 
 that those who reside there have immediate communion with 
 heaven, and that their Rabbies are in a manner inspired. 
 Jerusalem is the strong-hold of Rabbinism. 4. They expect 
 the appearance of Messiah in Jerusalem ; and look for national 
 restoration through him.
 
 288 THE JEWS IN PALESTINE. 
 
 The greater number of Jews who come to Palestine, are 
 from Poland. Some come also from Russia ; but at present 
 there are great hindrances thrown in their way. There are 
 some from Wallachia and Moldavia ; a few from Germany ; 
 a few from Holland ; but scarcely any from Britain. Those 
 Jews who arc subjects of the Ottoman Porte, are said to be 
 of Spanish extraction. They come principally from Turkey 
 in Europe, from Saloniki, Constantinople and the Dardanelles. 
 Those who come from Asia Minor, are chiefly from Smyrna. 
 Many have come from Africa, especially of late years, and also 
 from Morocco and the Barbary coast, from Algiers, Tunis, and 
 Tripoli. There are a few from Alexandria and Cairo. 
 
 The greater number of the resident Jews are supported by 
 annual contributions made by the various synagogues of their 
 brethren, in other countries. They who possess some little 
 property when they quit Europe for Palestine, very commonly 
 make it over to friends, on condition that they remit them an 
 annuity while they sojourn in the Holy Land. The sum which 
 each individual receives from the annually raised fund, is very 
 small. Five ducats, or about three pounds ten shillings for 
 each man, is as much as can be expected, per annum. The 
 plan now adopted for regulating the pecuniary provision is this. 
 The sum raised in the various European synagogues is remitted 
 altogether to Amsterdam, to a rich Jewish merchant, who for 
 this purpose, is called the president of the Holy Land. This 
 person remits it to the Austrian Consul, at Beyrout, who 
 forwards it to properly authorised parties at Jerusalem, for 
 distribution. The average amount may be about two hundred 
 and eighty thousand piastres, or about two thousand eight 
 hundred pounds. The poverty of the Jews in Palestine is 
 very great, as may be reasonably expected from what I have 
 already mentioned. The contributions from Europe have 
 of late been smaller than usual ; and when they arrive, instead 
 of doing real good to any important extent, are a fruitful 
 source of heart-burning and strife. There is no such thing 
 as "brethren dwelling together in unity," in Jerusalem no 
 Jew trusts his brother. The expectation of some means 

 
 THE JEWS IN PALESTINE THE CHURCH IN JERUSALEM. 289 
 
 of support from Europe, however small, induces many to live in 
 idleness. Hence, there are said to be in the city four hundred 
 acknowledged paupers ; and five hundred more who actually 
 receive charity. Many are so destitute, that without relief 
 they would not be able to subsist during the winter season. 1 
 
 No thoughtful and reflecting mind can regard the present 
 state of the Jews especially in Palestine, without feeling the 
 force of that living commentary which they afford upon the 
 pages of divine truth. They are witnesses for God, and for 
 Christ, and for Christianity in spite of themselves. When 
 will the Church of Christ arise, and, in the broad sunlight 
 of revelation, take up her proper position to the full, on behalf 
 of God's ancient people ? I praise God, from my heart, that 
 the Church of England is now beginning to do so ; and that I 
 was permitted, in Jerusalem, to see the commencement of her 
 scriptural organization for that purpose. I think I can now 
 believe, expect, and hope all things. Oh that we could see a 
 vast and rapid increase at home, of those who "pray for the 
 peace of Jerusalem," in the assurance that " they shall prosper 
 that love her." 
 
 Just before I quitted Jerusalem, the foundation of the 
 Church, which has been so long in intention, was completely 
 laid and brought to a level with the surface the present 
 surface of Mount Zion. How delightful the thought that 
 the Church of England should be permitted, in the providence 
 of God, to set up her banner there. May she be the 
 honoured channel through which the waters of life shall flow 
 forth abundantly ! May He whom the Father hath exalted 
 with his right hand to be a Prince and a Saviour for to give 
 repentance to Israel and forgiveness of sins be there truly 
 and fully set forth, that so eventually He may become, in the 
 
 1 For valuable and deeply interesting information in reference to the Jews 
 in Palestine, the recent publication of the Deputation from the Church 
 of Scotland may be well consulted. Some of the above particulars have been 
 obtained from that source.
 
 290 THE CHURCH IN JERUSALEM JEWISH CUSTOM. 
 
 fulness of the divine purpose, a light to lighten the Gentiles, 
 and the glory of His people Israel. 
 
 The digging for the foundation has been a most laborious 
 and costly process. So great have been the accumulations 
 of soil, since Jerusalem has "become heaps," that until 
 reaching the solid rock, at a depth of forty feet, no sufficient 
 bed could be procured for the foundation. At that depth, 
 then, the first stones were laid ; and the Church will, in the 
 fullest literal sense of the expression, be founded on the 
 hill of Zion. The stone for the building is procured from a 
 quarry a few miles north of the city, not far from a village now 
 called Anata, the ancient Anathoth the birth-place of the 
 prophet Jeremiah. It is of a fine, firm texture, and bears 
 the tool of the mason admirably. Considerable progress had 
 been made in the various departments of masonry when I 
 was on the spot, and a great number of hands some of them 
 Arabs, and some Maltese, were employed in shaping pillars, 
 arches, architraves, and other parts of the building, so as to 
 be ready as the progress of the work might call for them. 1 
 
 On every Friday, it is the custom for many Jews to 
 assemble for humiliation and supplication, near the precincts 
 of the sacred spot on which once stood the temple in its 
 glory, but within which not one of them can now obtain 
 admission. On one of these occasions we were present. 
 The wall of the enclosure at that place, which is toward the 
 west, is formed with stones of immense magnitude, and of such 
 a kind and character as may favour the notion that they 
 were once a part, either of the temple itself or its boundary. 
 Certainly, they are very unlike the materials of which the 
 city and its present walls are constructed. They have been 
 wrought with great care, and are bevelled off at their edges 
 with great exactness and beauty. The Jews are said to have 
 
 1 Since this was written, the work has been suspended by order of the Turkish 
 Government an event not much feared at onetime. The final issue of it is yet 
 to be seen.
 
 JEWISH CUSTOM MY SECOND SABBATH IN JERUSALEM. 91 
 
 a persuasion that their prayers will find especial acceptance, 
 when breathed through the crevices of that building 
 of which Jehovah said " Mine eyes and mine heart shall 
 be there perpetually." On reaching the spot, we found 
 a row of aged Jews sitting in the dust in front of the wall, 
 all of them engaged in reading or reciting certain portions 
 of the Hebrew scriptures. There was no such outward 
 manifestation of strong emotion as I had been led to expect; 
 but yet every one appeared to be intently occupied, and but 
 little disturbed by the approach of European strangers. 
 Among them were several Jewesses, enveloped from head 
 to foot in ample white veils. They stepped forward to 
 various parts of the ancient wall, kissed them with 
 great fervency of manner, and uttered their petitions in 
 a low whisper, at the points where the stones came in 
 contact. I thought of Israel, when by the waters of Babylon 
 they sat down and wept ; and could not but lift up my heart 
 for the hastening of the time when their King shall be again 
 in the midst of them no longer in humiliation, but in 
 glory, and when all " shall know him, from the least to the 
 greatest." 
 
 I remember Sunday, the twenty-sixth of June, as one 
 of the most deeply interesting and affecting days of my life. 
 By five o'clock in the morning, I was descending the 
 valley of Jehoshaphat, and paused a moment as I crossed the 
 then dry bed of the brook Kedron, over which my Saviour 
 had so often passed. I was on my way to the Mount 
 of Olives, for a purpose in which he himself delighted. All 
 was silent and motionless, as the rising sun of the Sabbath 
 shed his glory on the sacred scene around me. I passed on 
 to Gethsemane alone in the flesh but not in the spirit, 
 I believe, and meditated within the bounds of that wondrous 
 enclosure. I proceeded upwards to the first ridge of the 
 Mount of Olives, and took my seat under the shade of a 
 wide-spreading fig tree, in a spot which presented to me the 
 Holy City slumbering as it were in silent inactivity. I had 
 met only a solitary Arab as I passed through the city towards
 
 MY SECOND SABBATH IN JERUSALEM. 
 
 the gate of St. Stephen; and while sitting on the mount, 
 not a single voice broke upon the sense of solitude which 
 pervaded my mind. Often, amidst the stir and toil of active 
 life at home, have I recurred to that season of sweet sabbath 
 repose which I enjoyed on the sacred mount, where my 
 Saviour had so often passed his hours of secret communion 
 with the Father. I will not attempt to lay bare the spiritual 
 process of my soul, while there I prayed for divine light and 
 guidance, and meditated on the portion of the Holy Word 
 which I had been led to select, as containing the message I 
 was that day to proclaim on the heights of Mount Zion. 
 Again and again, I pondered over the precious passage the 
 words of Jesus himself "AND THIS is LIFE ETERNAL, THAT 
 
 THEY MIGHT KNOW THEE THE ONLY TRUE GOD, AND 
 
 JESUS CHRIST WHOM THOU HAST SENT."' What a volume 
 of imperishable truth do they contain ! I have been privileged 
 to set forth the truth as it is in Jesus amidst thousands in 
 my own beloved country; and my heart has often glowed 
 at the prospect, and expanded in the exercise ; but now, in 
 prospect of proclaiming life eternal in Christ, in the city from 
 which the streams of life began to flow I felt for a time 
 borne down by the thought "Who is sufficient for these 
 things ?" I returned, however, to the city, with a serene and 
 happy heart; passed up the way along which Jesus bore 
 his cross for me ; and pausing for a brief space at the slope 
 of Calvary awaited the hour in which the little church 
 of Christ should assemble in the " upper room " on Mount Zion. 
 The season of public worship was delightful and refreshing. 
 The sacrament of the Lord's Supper was administered by the 
 Bishop, assisted by Mr. Williams, his chaplain. It was a 
 spiritual exercise to be had in continual remembrance, for its 
 simplicity, solemnity and impressiveness. 
 
 In the evening, we attended the usual service at the 
 Episcopal residence ; after which, the Bishop kindly chanted 
 for us the first chapter of the book of Lamentations, in the 
 
 1 John xvii. 3.
 
 FUTURE MOVEMENTS. 293 
 
 manner still observed by the Jews when bewailing the 
 destruction of their temple and city. It was extremely 
 plaintive and affecting ; and filled the mind with saddening 
 associations, while surrounded, as we were, by the proofs 
 of Israel's desolation. 
 
 Before finally quitting Jerusalem, we resolved to make our 
 visit to the Dead Sea and the River Jordan; and as our 
 time was gliding rapidly away, we procured the attendance 
 of Sheikh Hamdan the Chief of the Arabs inhabiting that 
 region, and settled the terms upon which he was to give us 
 safe conduct to those interesting localities. I shall make the 
 particulars of this excursion the subjects of a separate chapter ; 
 and then bring my reader back with me to Jerusalem.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 THE DEAD SEA, JORDAN, &c. 
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY ARAB PASTIMES PLAN OF THE JOURNEY 
 COMMENCEMENT OF THE JOURNEY MOUNTAIN-PASS TOWARDS MAR SABA 
 CONVENT OF MAR SABA TOMB OF MAR SABA ROUTE TOWARDS THE DEAD 
 
 SEA SODOM GOMORRAH, ETC. THE JORDAN THE PLAIN OF JERICHO 
 
 JERICHO FOUNTAIN OF ELISIIA ROAD BETWEEN JERUSALEM AND JERICHO. 
 
 IT was on the thirtieth of June that we commenced our 
 journey to the Dead Sea, and the scenes of scripture-history 
 connected with it. An addition was made to our party in 
 the person of the Rev. John Rowlands, Fellow of Queen's 
 College, Cambridge an old and dear friend, whom I had 
 the happiness of meeting in Jerusalem, after several years 
 of separation, which he had passed in Syria, Palestine, and 
 various parts of the continent of Europe. If he should 
 happen to take up this book, he will not be surprised at finding 
 in it a record of the delight afforded me by our meeting. 
 
 With the Arabs, preparations for an expedition are generally 
 attended with wearisome and harassing delays. It was so in 
 this case. By four o'clock in the afternoon, however, all our 
 preparations were made : tents, mats, cooking apparatus, &c. 
 all were packed and ready, after the manner of our desert- 
 route. The party consisted of Sheikh Hamdan a calm, 
 dignified, and intelligent-looking Arab the Chief or Regal 
 Sheikh of the Dead Sea and the district lying between it and 
 Jerusalem ; eight Bedaween, of the same region and tribe, as
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR THE JOURNEY. 
 
 guards, all of whom, as well as Hamdan, were mounted on 
 Arab horses, and " armed to the teeth" with sabres, pistols, 
 crooked knives in their girdles, and matchlock guns slung 
 at their backs ; and, in addition to these weapons, some 
 carried the long Arab spear, with its tuft of camel's hair, 
 dyed black, surrounding the bottom of the blade a fearful 
 instrument in a dexterous hand. Great precaution is always 
 taken in making this expedition, on account of a fierce 
 and powerful tribe called the Beni Sakhrs, whose territory 
 lies just on the eastern side of the Jordan; and between 
 whom and the tribes on the west there is great jealousy, 
 and who not unfrequcntly take measures for harassing 
 pilgrims and others who visit these desolate regions. It is 
 well, therefore, to take a considerable escort, and to shew as 
 many weapons especially guns, as possible. Besides our 
 guards on horseback, we had with us two mules and two asses, 
 Avith drivers, to carry our tents and various other provisions for 
 the journey food, bedding, water-skins, and such like. Then 
 there were our two servants, Hassenein and Abd'lawahyed, 
 and Mr. Kowlands' servant, Giovanni a Maltese, who was 
 so armed, that he looked like an arsenal on horseback. 
 Hassenein, too, being fond of arms, and a little quixotic 
 in his habits, was girt about with an abundance also. We 
 were all tolerably well mounted on Arab horses procured 
 at Jerusalem, and made altogether a considerable party, 
 somewhat formidable as well as picturesque, when winding 
 our way among the mountain passes. The Turkish saddles, 
 with their high pommels covered with crimson cloth, afford a 
 safe and comfortable seat when once one gets accustomed to 
 them : but the arrangement of the stirrups placed far back, 
 is disagreeable, and compels the rider to bend the knee in 
 a very acute angle, which, upon a long journey, becomes 
 excessively fatiguing. 
 
 Our Arabs were mostly fine dashing fellows any one 
 of whom, I should, however, have been extremely unwilling 
 to meet alone on any hill-side, except he were in my service, 
 and had eaten of my bread. When they came to any open
 
 ARAB PASTIMES PLAN OF THE JOURNEY. 297 
 
 plain, they -were fond of setting up a kind of mock fight 
 among themselves, in order to give us some idea of their 
 agility and dexterity. The picture which they presented 
 was sometimes terrific ; but yet, every action both of man and 
 horse was graceful in the extreme. At one moment, some 
 would be seen in the hot pursuit of others, with the long 
 spear poised and brandished, as if in an instant to transfix 
 the fugitives ; and then suddenly the pursued turned upon the 
 pursuers, checking and bringing up their horses at speed, 
 with wonderful dexterity, and, drawing their sabres, appeared 
 ready for a deadly conflict hand to hand. For an instant, 
 they seemed almost maddened, and rushed towards each other 
 with a wild shout or war-cry. Then bounding off again 
 at a fearful speed, and again mingling as if for a deadly 
 melee they would all at once break off with a loud laugh ; 
 and, returning to us, claim our applause, saying, "Tayeeb 
 tayeeb, Khowaga ?" (Is it not very good, Sir ?) 
 
 The plan upon which we made our journey, was, upon 
 experiment, the most successful that could be desired. Most 
 travellers have, I believe, found this expedition a great tax 
 upon their strength, on account of the great heat of the plains 
 and mountain passes, which generally exceeds the temperature 
 of the surrounding country. It is, therefore, always looked 
 upon as an arduous affair; and we set out with an appre- 
 hension that it would be as much as we could do to endure 
 the heat. Even the Arabs themselves sometimes quail at it, 
 especially when in the Ghor, or plains of the Jordan. 
 
 Most travellers, who take this journey from Jerusalem, 
 proceed direct to Jericho on the first day, and there pitch 
 their tents for the night. On the following morning they 
 visit the northern shore of the Dead Sea, which is somewhere 
 about two hours distant in a direct route; then the River 
 Jordan, distant about an hour and half from the Dead Sea, 
 and return to their tents worn and exhausted by the almost 
 intolerable heat. On the third day they commonly return to 
 Jerusalem by the way they came, or by way of Mar Saba ;
 
 208 COMMENCEMENT OF THE JOURNEY. 
 
 in which latter case, they visit the Jordan first, and then 
 the Dead Sea. We made our journey in a manner quite 
 the reverse of this ; and though it was performed on 
 the thirtieth of June, and the t\vo first days of July, yet 
 we suffered no real inconvenience. Indeed, the severity 
 of the heat was in a great degree avoided. Having 
 made the experiment so successfully, I would strongly 
 recommend all travellers to do as we did, and make a 
 condition about it, while bargaining with their Sheikh for 
 the escort. 
 
 It was soon after four o'clock in the afternoon of the 
 thirtieth of June, that we left Jerusalem by the Bethlehem 
 gate ; and, winding down the steep sides of Mount Zion, 
 crossed the valley of Hinnom, by the place of Tophet, which 
 brought us to a mountain pass, at the bottom of Avhich is 
 continued the bed of the brook Kedron, after it turns off 
 from the valley of Jehoshaphat. Before entering the pass, 
 we made a halt at Bir el Eyoub (the well of Joab), in 
 order to get all the party together. Our guards called to 
 some Arabs loitering about the well, who brought us 
 fresh sparkling water, in buckets made of skins. We took 
 a plentiful draught, and deemed it luxury. There is, after 
 all, I repeat, no beverage to be compared with delicious 
 water, in the estimation of an unvitiated palate. We formed 
 altogether a wild and fanciful group while gathered together 
 around Bir el Eyoub; and when I thought of the nature 
 of our expedition, I felt there was an indescribable sensation 
 of romance connected with it. Before we moved from the spot, 
 we were joined by a young Greek, two Russian pilgrims, 
 and a Greek priest, all of whom had expressed a desire to 
 join our party, in order to have that sort of protection 
 against marauding Arabs, which the appearance of numbers 
 is calculated to afford. After all had satisfied their thirst, we 
 resumed our journey. 
 
 The route lay south-eastward, between a rapid succession 
 of hills of beautiful form and considerable magnitude, some
 
 MOUNTAIN-PASS TOWARDS MAR SABA. 299 
 
 of them partially covered with short grass and other herbage, 
 and the others rugged and bare. The fantastically winding 
 course of the brook Kedron was at our feet on the right; 
 and beyond it, at about an hour and half distant from 
 Jerusalem, we found a rather large Arab encampment under 
 the brow of a hill; and near it, numerous flocks of sheep 
 and goats grazing. We were too distant to exchange 
 salutations with the shepherds. An Arab encampment is 
 unlike what many would suppose. The tents are very low, 
 not sufficiently high to admit of an adult person standing 
 upright in them. They are pitched together in rows, and 
 made of camel's hair, stained or dyed black. Altogether they 
 are as unpicturesque as their inhabitants are the reverse. 
 
 The bridle ways in these mountain-passes not being wide 
 enough for even two persons to ride abreast, except now and 
 then for a few yards, we continued our route in lengthened 
 procession, enlivening it as we might by snatches of con- 
 versation. Every part of the scene was extremely wild and 
 beautiful ; and it was quite surprising to see how our little 
 compact Arab palfreys climbed and scrambled over the most 
 difficult places which lay in our way, more like cats or monkeys 
 than any thing else. Let them but have their heads, and take 
 their own course, and they carry you through wonderfully. 
 But if you try to shew yourself wiser than your horse, it is 
 ten to one but he may chance to stumble with you. I have 
 tried the experiment. 
 
 After about three hours, the bed of the Kedron assumes 
 a remarkably bold and peculiar aspect. It is, in fact, a 
 vast and terrible chasm. I cannpt venture to compute its 
 depth. It appears as if ocean streams had once forced their 
 wilful way through it, and made the stubborn rocks submissive. 
 It winds rapidly and abruptly, and presents the appearance 
 of a vast amphitheatre at every bend, in which the seats, or 
 rather rows of seats, lying along in the greatest regularity, 
 consist of the natural horizontal strata of the dark rocks. In 
 the thousands of fissures on either side, numberless birds had
 
 300 CONVENT OF MAR SABA. 
 
 their nests, and were skimming about in the depth below. 
 It is impossible to describe the grandeur and stupendous 
 magnificence of this ravine, at the very edge of which lay 
 our narrow path the path trodden for ages the only path. 
 It looks like a scene of tremendous natural convulsions. 
 
 While ri vetted to the enjoyment of this extraordinary 
 picture (upon about a mile of which I could look back as 
 already passed), I gazed eagerly forward towards a new turn 
 in the road and immediately before us, built up from the 
 very bed of the ravine, and ascending to the level on which 
 we were passing, stood the most wonderful structure of its kind 
 I have ever seen a place of immense strength, castellated, and 
 unassailable except by heavy cannonade. It was the Convent 
 of Mar Saba, to the superior of which we had obtained a letter 
 of recommendation from the Greek convent in Jerusalem 
 Mar Saba itself belonging to the same community. Here 
 we had resolved to make a claim of hospitality, and to pass 
 the night. 
 
 As soon as the approach of pilgrims (for such all are 
 accounted who visit these localities), was known within the 
 walls, the sound of a deep-toned bell was heard, and several 
 monks appeared on a kind of watch-tower, probably for the 
 purpose of reconnoitring. One remarkable thing about this 
 convent is, that you are admitted above ; and descend to the 
 parts of it which are used for the purposes of habitation. We 
 had not stood many minutes at the gate, before our whole 
 party were admitted wild Arabs and all, whose reckless 
 bearing presented a striking contrast to the subdued and quiet 
 behaviour of the Greek monks. I was amused at seeing one 
 of them extend his Moslem hand, with a sort of braggadocio 
 air, to a spare and humble looking monk, who, with an 
 instinctive timidity, seemed to shrink from the contact. The 
 Arab persevered wrung the monk's hand heartily and with 
 a loud shouting laugh, as if he would say "Away with all your 
 cluistian prejudices I am as good a man as you any day, and 
 enjoy a freedom of which you know nothing." The poor
 
 CONVENT OF MAR SABA. 301 
 
 monks of Mar Saba have suffered so much persecution from 
 the surrounding tribes in days gone by, that there is no 
 wonder at their being, even now, timid and suspicious. 
 
 The exterior of the convent, however striking, afforded 
 but little notion of the singularity of its interior. It is 
 wonderfully fortified, partly by the natural defence afforded 
 by surrounding rocks, and partly by artificial structure, 
 of laborious ingenuity ; all of which is as needful now, as in 
 earlier days, in order to resist the lawless marauding spirit 
 of the Arabs, sometimes impelled by hunger, and sometimes 
 by mere force of their restlessness and characteristic rapacity. 
 
 Soon after sending our letter of introduction to the Superior, 
 "we were conducted by a small party of monks down several 
 steep flights of winding stairs, partly of masonry and partly cut 
 in the rock, as if we were to be deposited at the very bottom 
 of the vast ravine in which the convent stands. Every step 
 of our descent increased the admiration with which we gazed 
 around upon this surprising structure. The loneliness and 
 savage grandeur of the rocky heights and natural fortifications 
 above and around us, filled my mind with a strange idea 
 of entire separation from the world as if we were come to the 
 very last of human habitations. After descending to a great 
 depth, we reached an open platform of levelled rock, in 
 the midst of which was a charming little herb and salad 
 garden so fresh and so green, that the eye rested on it with 
 delight after the wearisome journey. It gave a most refreshing 
 air of coolness to the whole picture. Beyond this, approached 
 by a flight of stone steps upwards, was another platform, on 
 which stood the guest-chamber, with two or three other 
 and smaller rooms, serving as kitchen and lodgings for 
 servants. We were at once ushered into the former a 
 cool and actually clean apartment, about thirty feet long 
 and twenty-five broad, nicely fitted up with carpets and 
 dewans, on which we selected our several sleeping corners. 
 We were soon served with a small glass of delicious arakee 
 and some sweetmeats ; then followed a fragrant cup of coffee ;
 
 302 CONVENT OF MAR SABA. 
 
 and in the comfortable repose of the convent we soon forgot 
 the fatigues of the journey. We spent a happy evening, 
 as the sun went down upon us ; and while sitting on the flat 
 roof of our chamber, watched the coming darkness, and the 
 assembling of the starry wonders of the firmament. 
 
 After battling with musquitoes for many hours of the night, 
 we were aroused as early as five o'clock, by the entrance of a 
 couple of monks, who served us, according to their custom, 
 with a little glass of arakee a few slices of deliciously cool 
 water-melon, and coffee. This was by way of preparation 
 for breakfast. We hesitated for a moment upon the arakee 
 at that early hour of the morning ; but, however, supposing 
 the use of it to be based upon some satisfactory oriental 
 theory, we accepted it, and certainly were not the worse. I 
 have always found it well to adopt the customs and habits 
 of those about me, in regard to matters of diet, not only in 
 Europe, but in Africa and Asia. 
 
 We amused ourselves for a time in exploring such parts 
 of the convent as were open to guests like ourselves. Amongst 
 other matters of interest, we found several small cells cut in 
 the face of the solid rocks, and approached by rudely formed 
 stairs. Some of these were at a considerable height; and 
 seemed intended for the use of such members of the fraternity 
 as might be desirous of entire seclusion, and of indulging 
 an ascetic spirit. After breakfast, we expressed a wish to 
 visit the church and other antiquities of the convent, which 
 was promptly complied with. The church is a very solid 
 and substantial building. Its windows are shaded by 
 immensely heavy buttresses, for the purpose of protecting 
 them against the Arabs, who formerly used to commit much 
 devastation by shooting arrows, and throwing stones and 
 other missiles from the heights of the rocks on the opposite 
 side of the ravine. The interior is quite in the usual 
 style of Greek churches, with an ornamented pavement, 
 and a superabundance, on all sides, of tawdry gilding and 
 embellishments. Pictures of grim saints are painted in
 
 CONVENT OF MAR SABA. 303 
 
 fresco on the walls at full length ; while lamps, and ostrich 
 eggs in strings or rows, festooned, are suspended from the 
 roof. Besides the fresco paintings on the walls, there is 
 a crowd of other pictures of sacred subjects, in the flat 
 Greek style, in oil many of them very ancient and curious. 
 Some of the more modern ones contain representations 
 of God the Father, and God the Holy Ghost the former as 
 a bearded old man, the latter as a dove according to the 
 custom of the Church of Rome. Upon this subject, Mr. 
 Rowlands urged the proper objections of a protestant spirit, 
 which led to a rather lengthened discussion, in which several 
 of the younger monks appeared to take some little interest ; 
 while the elder ones, with a slight indication of annoyance, 
 attempted to put an end to it. The poor monks seem to be 
 sadly ignorant, and incapable of seeing the scriptural principle 
 upon which protestant objections are founded. 
 
 Quitting the interior, we ascended to the roof of the 
 church, from which we obtained a very complete view of the 
 wild and savage locality in which this most remarkable 
 habitation is placed. It seemed almost as if an earthquake 
 had burst the rocks asunder, and as though the convent had 
 been constructed out of the materials wonderfully supplied to 
 the hand by such a terrible natural convulsion. We were 
 next conducted to the tomb, in which are said to repose the 
 bones of John of Damascus, the heresiarch of his day, who 
 introduced into the Greek church the adoration of the 
 Virgin, that unscriptural innovation of the Church of Rome. 
 It is lamentable indeed to see the Greek church thus 
 hallowing the memory of a man who drew her away from 
 her original purity in this respect. The tomb of this 
 saint, like most saints' tombs in these countries, consists 
 of a low arch formed in the wall ; beneath which lies a stone 
 effigy, ornamented ; and on the breast of it is indicated 
 the heresy for which he was the too successful advocate. 
 Above it is suspended a little lamp with olive oil kept 
 continually burning. We next visited the tomb of Mar Saba, 
 the founder of the convent, who for forty years had lived
 
 304 CONVENT AND TOMB OF MAR SABA. 
 
 an ascetic life in those mountain fastnesses. The tomb is 
 detached from other buildings stands nearly in the centre 
 of the convent, and is surmounted by a dome. The interior 
 is a small circular chamber, with a picture or two, and lamps. 
 Mar Saba died in the odour of sanctity, about A. D. 532, 
 at the advanced age of ninety-four. His acts occupy 
 a prominent place in the history of Jerusalem and the 
 surrounding country. Not far from the tomb of Mar Saba is 
 the ancient the original convent church. It is undoubtedly 
 an excavation in the solid rock ; the fruit of immense labour. 
 The arch roof is formed with the greatest care. A few 
 extremely ancient and curious pictures, in a state of rapid 
 decay, are suspended on the walls, and about the altars. 
 While we were in this ancient sanctuary, we examined one 
 of the service books, printed under the authority of the 
 Church of Rome, and containing most of the unscriptural 
 deformities of that apostate church. 
 
 Sheikh Hamdan was already a-weary of convent walls ; and 
 both he and his Bedaween were impatient for us to be moving. 
 When within habitations of stone, the Arabs lose much of the 
 wild energy which characterizes them in the desert. They 
 glide about with a moping step, or lie down to sleep or smoke 
 in a shady nook. Our wild guards were evidently longing 
 for a release from the restraint which the convent put 
 upon them. We told them we should be ready to start after 
 our early dinner, which was served a little after noon. One 
 delicious item of our slender fare consisted of a salad dressed 
 with olive oil, and made of a kind of sorrel, which grows 
 within the convent walls. It has a very pleasant acid flavour. 
 Soon after we had finished our repast, we sounded the note 
 of preparation. The spirit of the Arabs seemed to revive ; 
 and at about two o'clock, we bade farewell to our hospitable 
 friends at Mar Saba left them a suitable gratuity, and 
 mounted our palfreys, for the Dead Sea, intending to pitch 
 our tents for the night on its north-western shore, and so 
 avoid as much as possible, all oppressive heat.
 
 ROUTE TOWARDS THE DEAD SEA. 305 
 
 From the convent of Mar Saba to the Dead Sea is a 
 journey of six hours. It is, I believe, the route described by 
 Sir "Walter Scott, in one of his "Tales of the Crusaders," as 
 having been taken by Sir Kenneth and Saladin, after their 
 repose at the "Diamond of the Desert." It is singularly 
 wild and desolate; and lies over and between endless 
 mountainous undulations. After about two hours, we 
 commanded from an elevated spot a very interesting view 
 of parts of the Dead Sea, with the rose-tinted mountains 
 of Moab on the east, shewing the mouth of the river Arnon, 
 where it empties itself into that awful reservoir. Towards 
 our left still eastward, was Mount Gilead, distinctly visible 
 in the distance, and Eamoth Gilead. Though we were then 
 at least four hours distant from the Dead Sea, yet, by reason 
 of the extreme clearness of the atmosphere, it seemed as if by 
 descending another valley and topping another hill, we could 
 step down upon its shores. Its waters were of deep purple, 
 and their surface appeared as smooth as glass; while 
 immediately above there hung a shadowy mist, which gave me 
 the idea of sulphurous exhalation. It was a lovely picture 
 to gaze upon ; but, how awful in the associations connected 
 with it ! One could but look upward to the placid and clear 
 blue sky, and think of the dread moment when " the 
 Lord rained upon Sodom and Gomorrah brimstone and fire, 
 from the Lord, out of heaven." 1 Perhaps it was upon a 
 firmament as lovely and glowing as that on which we gazed 
 that the dark clouds of God's terrible indignation gathered. 
 The divine fury has subsided. The liquid monument of it 
 remains. 
 
 Losing the Dead Sea for a .time, we reached another 
 part of our route in the wilderness of Judea, from whence 
 we obtained a distant glance of the plains of Moab and 
 the Jordan. This in its turn we soon lost, and were shut 
 up between vast mountain-ridges, the passes of which were 
 extremely rugged and difficult. The poor Greek priest, 
 
 1 Genesis xix. 24. 
 
 TV
 
 306 ROUTE TOWARDS THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 who was of our party, had an unexpected, but not seriously 
 injurious fall from his horse in one of these. There was 
 happily a light breeze playing about us, which helped to 
 reduce a temperature, which else would have been distressing 
 in the depths of the mountain passes. We journeyed on in 
 patient anticipation, amidst scenes the wildest and grandest, 
 till at length, as the sun was getting low, and casting on all 
 objects that richness of tinting so peculiar to these localities, 
 the plains of Moab and Jordan in their full extent were 
 stretched out beneath us, even as far as the Sea of Galilee, 
 northwards, had our sight been strong enough to descry it ; 
 while towards the south, bounded by the hills of Moab on 
 the east and those of Judea on the west, the Dead Sea again 
 took up its position in the picture. 
 
 From thence, our route hay along a rapidly descending path; 
 and as we passed on, the sun, pursuing his homeward course, 
 gave such a tone to the whole wonderful landscape as cannot 
 be forgotten deep, rich, glowing. I feel at this moment 
 how impossible it is to express in words, the effect of 
 colour. Those who would understand its power should study 
 it in the East. I could willingly have pitched my tent 
 upon those heights, and there awaited the return of the 
 morning sun. My eye was then rivetted on scenes of deep 
 and abiding interest. On my right was the scene of divine 
 terror unspeakable. There the smoke of the rebellious 
 cities "went up as the smoke of a furnace." To the left, 
 in the plain before me, wonderfully and miraculously crossing 
 the lliver Jordan, Joshua and the people of Israel and the 
 Ark of the Covenant entered the promised land. From 
 thence the prophet Elijah was taken up in a chariot of fire, 
 and his mantle descended upon Elisha; there the waters 
 of the lliver once gave proof, by their obedience, to the 
 prophet's mission, when he smote them with the mantle which 
 was his inheritance ; and there, too, even in those waters, 
 John once stood baptizing the many who yielded to the power 
 of his ministry ; and at length baptized that immaculate Lamb 
 of God, on whom, even there there, on that very spot, the
 
 THE DEAD SEA. 307 
 
 Holy Ghost visibly descended like a dove, and a voice from 
 the Father was heard proclaiming " This is my beloved Son 
 in whom I am well pleased." 
 
 The sun went down in his course, casting his last beams on 
 the ridge of Moab ; and soon the whole landscape, lately so 
 bathed in light and loveliness, became grey and shadowy. 
 Then followed, without any lasting twilight the dominion 
 of the stars, which at first, one by one, and then in full 
 assemblage, crowded the expanse of the firmament, pouring 
 down their soft quiet light upon the motionless surface of the 
 Dead Sea. It was an absorbing scene. We still continued 
 making our descent, part of which lay over the narrowest 
 ridges of fearfully steep declivities, from which a slip would 
 have been destruction with room, and sometimes barely 
 room, for only one passenger at a time, over which our clever 
 little horses carried us with instinctive dexterity. We moved 
 on in perfect silence, each heedful of his own safety, and 
 at length reached an extensive plain, covered with low 
 brushwood, which we traversed till the level waters of the 
 Dead Sea, in all their mysterious reality, lay at our feet. 
 Sheikh Hamdan gave the word for halting, and with a 
 thankful heart I dismounted for our evening's rest. A 
 wanderer from my own dear home I had found a home 
 on the Dead Sea shore. Our tent was soon pitched, the 
 fires lighted, our refreshment prepared ; and a cup of tea, 
 with some Jerusalem bread and Bethlehem honey, formed a 
 banquet fit for a prince. 
 
 From the tent door we could look forth upon the sullen 
 waters of bitterness which marked the scene of divine judg- 
 ments. Our Arabs were soon hushed in the silence of repose, 
 stretched along on the sands around us ; and with no sound 
 stealing on the ear but my own single voice, I took up my 
 Bible and read aloud "And the men said unto Lot, Hast 
 thou here any besides ? sons-in-law, and thy sons, and thy 
 daughters, and whatsoever thou hast in the city, bring them 
 out of this place : for we will destroy this place, because the
 
 308 THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 cry of them is waxen great before the face of the Lord ; and 
 the Lord hath sent us to destroy it. And Lot went out, and 
 spake unto his sons-in-law, which married his daughters, and 
 said, Up, get ye out of this place ; for the Lord will destroy 
 this city. But he seemed as one that mocked unto his sons-in- 
 law. And when the morning arose, then the angels hastened 
 Lot, saying, Arise, take thy wife and thy two daughters, 
 which are here ; lest thou be consumed in the iniquity of the 
 city. And while he lingered, the men laid hold upon his 
 hand, and upon the hand of his wife, and upon the hand 
 of his two daughters ; the Lord being merciful unto him : and 
 they brought him forth, and set him without the city. And 
 it came to pass, when they had brought, them forth abroad, 
 that he said, " Escape for thy life ; look not behind thee, 
 neither stay thou in all the plain ; escape to the mountain, 
 lest thou be consumed. And Lot said unto them, Oh, not so, 
 my Lord : behold now, thy servant hath found grace in thy 
 sight, and thou hast magnified thy mercy, which thou hast 
 shewed unto me in saving my life ; and I cannot escape to 
 the mountain, lest some evil take me, and I die : behold now, 
 this city is near to flee unto, and it is a little one : Oh, let me 
 escape thither (is it not a little one ?) and my soul shall live. 
 And he said upon him, See, I have accepted thee concerning 
 this thing also, that I will not overthrow this city, for the 
 which thou hast spoken. Haste thee, escape thither; for I 
 cannot do any thing till thou be come thither. Therefore the 
 name of the city was called Zoar. Then the Lord rained 
 upon Sodom and upon Gomorrah brimstone and fire from the 
 Lord out of heaven ; and he overthrew those cities, and all 
 the plain, and all the inhabitants of the cities, and that 
 which grew upon the ground. But his wife looked back 
 from behind him, and she became a pillar of salt. And 
 Abraham gat up early in the morning to the place where he 
 stood before the Lord : and he looked toward Sodom and 
 Gomorrah, and toward all the land of the plain, and beheld, 
 and, lo, the smoke of the country went up as the smoke of a 
 furnace. And it came to pass, when God destroyed the cities 
 of the plain, that God remembered Abraham, and sent Lot
 
 THE DEAD SEA. 309 
 
 out of the midst of the overthrow, when he overthrew the 
 cities in the which Lot dwelt." 1 There was an awful interest 
 about the whole scene and its associations which I cannot 
 forget. After united prayer and praise, we laid ourselves 
 down to rest for the night on the sands of the Dead Sea 
 shore ; and soon almost the silence of death hung over us. 
 
 Our intention was to be moving on the following morning 
 as early as four o'clock ; and our plan was to send on the 
 servants with tents and baggage direct towards Jericho, with 
 directions to find Ayun Sultan or "the fountain of Elisha," 
 and there to have refreshment ready for us on our return 
 from the Jordan. They were to have part of our Bedaween 
 as an escort, while Sheikh Hamdan and the remainder were 
 to conduct us to the Jordan, and protect us against the Beni 
 Sakhrs, in case any of them should be lying in wait, which 
 was probable enough, as they might have seen our fires 
 burning on the previous evening. It was a lovely grey 
 morning when I rose before the sun. It was a scene of wild 
 and dread desolation on which I gazed southwards the 
 outspread waters of the Dead Sea shut in east and west by 
 the bold and precipitous heights of Moab and Judea. The 
 morning breeze caused a slight ripple on the surface of the 
 stagnant waters, which appeared clear and bright. There is 
 considerable action of the water at some times, as I judged 
 from the deposit, about a yard distant from its north-western 
 brink, of small branches of trees, reeds, &c., which had 
 been carried down by the rapid stream of the Jordan. 
 My friend and fellow traveller, Mr. Erskine, bathed in the 
 Dead Sea, and found the water extremely buoyant. I could 
 not quite make up my mind to the experiment ; but I tasted 
 the water. It is impossible to express the intensity of its 
 nauseousness when taken in sufficient quantity, and retained 
 long enough to act upon the palate. It has two distinct 
 flavours when first tasted, which soon unite and make a most 
 loathsome compound. The first is of extremely pungent 
 
 1 Genesis xix. 1229.
 
 310 THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 saltness, and capable of excoriating the palate. The other is 
 sheer bitterness and so bitter, that it seems to penetrate the 
 skin of the mouth. Though I took no more than about half a 
 wine glass full in my mouth, and did not swallow any, yet 
 my palate was saturated with it, and the sensation remained 
 during the day. I brought away a bottle of this loathsome 
 water, and a few pebbles from the shore. 
 
 This remarkable inland sea, or lake, is spoken of in 
 scripture by the name of the "Salt Sea" 1 the "East Sea" 3 and 
 the "Sea of the Plain." 3 The Greek and Roman writers 
 have called it "Lams AsphaUitcs" on account of the quantities 
 of bitumen found in and about it. Its present Arabic name 
 is "Bahr Lout" (the Sea of Lot), which helps to identify it 
 as the scene of God's fearful judgments upon Sodom and 
 Gomorrah. Its dimensions have been variously estimated. 
 Dr. Robinson, a recent and accurate observer, supposes it to 
 be about fifty miles from north to south ; and about twelve, 
 in the widest parts, from east to west. I had no means 
 of judging, as I only visited the north-western shore. It covers 
 the once charming valley of Siddim, which the sacred penman 
 compared to " the garden of the Lord ;"* and on which once 
 stood the five guilty cities, Sodom, Gomorrah, Admah, 
 Zeboim, and Zoar. The present aspect of this region was 
 well described by Moses, in a memorable passage, 5 depicting 
 the desolations of Judea " The generation to come of your 
 children, that shall rise up after you, and the stranger 
 that shall come from a far land, shall say, when they see 
 the plagues of that land, and the sicknesses which the 
 Lord hath laid upon it : and that the whole land thereof is 
 brimstone and salt and burning, that it is not sown, nor 
 beareth, nor any grass groweth therein, like the overthrow 
 of Sodom and Gomorrah, Admah, and Zeboim, which the Lord 
 overthrew in his anger, and in his wrath ; even all nations 
 
 1 Gen. xiv. 3; Dent. iii. 17 ; Josh. xv. 5. J Ezek. xlvii. 18; Joel ii. 20. 
 * Deut. iii. 17. Gen. xiii. 10. 4 Deut. xxix. 22, 23.
 
 THE DEAD SEA. 311 
 
 shall say," &c. The page of scripture makes the region of the 
 Dead Sea eloquent to the guilty heart of man. St. Peter felt 
 this, when he spake of God turning the cities of Sodom and 
 Gomorrah into ashes, condemning them with an overthrow, 
 and making them an example unto those that after should live 
 ungodly. 1 With the record of that terrible event before us, 
 how awfully impressive are our Lord's words to those who, 
 though living in the light of divine truth, reject the offers 
 of sovereign mercy "And whosoever shall not receive you, 
 nor hear your words, when ye depart out of that house or 
 city, shake off the dust of your feet. Verily, I say unto you, 
 it shall be more tolerable for the land of Sodorn and Gomorrah 
 in the day of judgment, than for that city." 2 
 
 There is no visible outlet to the waters of the Dead Sea; 
 but a process of evaporation is constantly going on, which 
 accounts for the misty appearance so generally visible over 
 its surface, and which, in the imagination of ancient writers, 
 clothed it with supernatural horrors. But as it does not seem 
 probable that evaporation alone could keep such a body 
 of water and its vast and perpetual additions within their 
 usual bounds, many intelligent travellers have ventured a 
 not unlikely supposition, that it must throw off its superfluous 
 quantity by some subterraneous channel leading westward 
 towards the Mediterranean. It has been calculated by Dr. 
 Shaw, an accurate minded man, upon data easily ascertained, 
 that the River Jordan discharges daily, upon an average, 
 6,090,000 tuns of water into the Dead Sea; in addition to 
 which, it receives large contributions from the Arnon, and 
 several other smaller streams. 
 
 An analysis of the water of the Dead Sea was made by Dr. 
 Marcet, in 1807; and the experiment has since been made by 
 other scientific men, with results very nearly similar. The 
 Doctor observes, that the application of tests, or re-agents, 
 proves that it contains the muriatic and sulphuric acids. There 
 
 1 2 Peter ii. 6. 2 Matt. x. 14, 15.
 
 312 THE DEAD SEA. 
 
 is no alumina in it, nor docs it appear to be saturated with 
 marine salt, or muriate of soda. On summing up tlie contents 
 of one hundred and fifty grains of the water, they were 
 found to hold in solution the following substances, and in 
 the undermentioned proportions : 
 
 Salts Acid 
 
 Muriate of Lime 5-88 grains . . 3-89 grains. 
 
 Muriate of Magnesia 15-37 .. 8'Cl 
 
 Muriate of Soda 15'54 . . 7-15 - 
 
 Selenite . 0-08 .. 
 
 30-87 19-05 
 
 And, consequently, the proportions of these salts in one 
 hundred grains of the water, would be : 
 
 Grains 
 
 Muriate of Lime 3'920 
 
 Muriate of Magnesia .... 10-240 
 
 Muriate of Soda 10'SGO 
 
 Sulphate of Lime O054 
 
 24-580 
 
 So that the water of the lake contains about one fourth of its 
 weight of salts supposed in a state of perfect desiccation ; or, 
 if they be desiccated at the temperature of 180 on Fahrenheit's 
 scale, they will amount to forty-one per cent, of the water." 1 
 
 Until recently, a general opinion prevailed, as I have 
 already intimated in a foregoing part of this volume, 2 that the 
 broad Wadey of El Arabah, which extends from the southern 
 
 1 My limits forbid more lengthened particulars concerning this deeply 
 interesting object and its phenomena ; but those readers who may desire further 
 information, may consult with advantage Maundrell, pp. 136, &c. ; Shaw, pp. 
 346, &c. ; Mariti, vol. ii. pp. 370, &c. ; Burckhardt, pp. 392, &c. ; Irby and 
 Mangles, pp. 446, &c. ; Elliot, vol. ii. pp. 479, &c. ; Stephens, vol. ii. 262, &c. ; 
 Professor Robinson, Am. Bib. Rep. Series ii. vol. i. pp. 419, 422, 443 ; 
 Paxton's Letters, pp. 159, &c. 
 
 2 See page 197.
 
 SODOM GOMORRAH, ETC. olo 
 
 shore of the Dead Sea to the eastern arm of the Red Sea, 
 was anciently a prolongation of the plains of Jordan ; that no 
 lake like the Dead Sea existed in the plain previous to the 
 destruction of Sodom ; and that the Jordan continued its course 
 throughout the whole of Wadey el Arabah, and emptied its 
 streams into the Red Sea. But subsequent enquiries seem to 
 have determined the question the other way, so as to lead to 
 the conclusion that the Jordan could never have flowed 
 through Wadey el Arabah ; and consequently, that a lake must 
 have existed in the vale of Sid dim, ever since the Jordan 
 began to flow down from Lebanon, and that the Dead Sea 
 does not owe its existence to the destruction of the cities 
 of the plain, though it certainly fixes their locality. The 
 facts upon which this conclusion has been formed, are agreed 
 upon by Professor Robinson and Count de Bertou ; the latter 
 of whom traversed the whole of Wadey el Arabah, and made 
 his observations with great care. They are these : first, that 
 the level of the Dead Sea and of the plains of the Jordan 
 generally, is very much below that of the Red Sea ; secondly, 
 that Wadey el Arabah rises gradually, southward, as far as 
 Wadey Talh ; and that all the springs in this portion of the 
 valley take a northerly direction, and flow into the Dead 
 Sea. 
 
 The exact site of the five cities of the plain is a subject 
 of interesting inquiry, and admits, I think, of much certainty, 
 supposing it to be true that a lake, though of much smaller 
 dimensions than those of the Dead Sea, in its present state, 
 previously existed in the vale of Siddim. The result of the recent 
 examinations above referred to, brings us to this conclusion. 
 In stating it, I am indebted to an intelligent compiler, who 
 has brought the subject to a point in the simplest manner. 1 
 I shall use his words. " Our reasons for believing this hypo- 
 thesis to be the true one are these : The supposition of a lake 
 previously existing is unavoidable. The bed of the Jordan 
 
 1 The Rev. J. A. Wylie. " Modern Judea, &c. Compared with. Ancient 
 Prophecy." A production of no small merit.
 
 314 SODOM GOMORRAH, ETC. 
 
 is so fur below the level of El Arabah and the Red Sea, that it 
 is impossible, in the nature of things, it ever could have flowed 
 through that valley. And this, we conceive, implies the 
 existence of a lake. But though we are obliged to suppose 
 that a lake existed, we are not obliged to suppose that it was 
 as large as it is at present. It is natural to think that so terrible 
 a catastrophe happening on its shores would make some 
 alteration in its dimensions, and most probably enlarge them. 
 And if we examine the lake, we find that it is, in fact, com- 
 posed of two lakes, an upper and a lower the former being 
 forty miles long, and the latter ten, assuming the whole at 
 fifty. The division between the two lakes is strongly marked. 
 On the shores the mountains approach, so as almost to 
 separate them from above ; and in the bottom a high ridge 
 of ground runs across from shore to shore, so as almost to divide 
 them below the surface. The water which covers this ridge 
 is seldom more than two feet in depth, and the ford which 
 the bottom offers, may be crossed by the Arabs at all seasons. 
 This ford is about three hours (nine miles) from the extremity 
 of the lake, on the authority of Burckhardt. Now, if we 
 suppose that the lake, in former times, terminated at this point, 
 as the form of the mountains and the nature of the bottom 
 seem to indicate, then, between the extremity of the lake, and 
 the low range of hills which bound the valley of the Jordan 
 towards the south, and from the head of El Arabah, we have 
 a level and fertile plain of seventeen miles in length, on which 
 we suppose the cities stood. The south-eastern portion of this 
 plain is still very fertile ; the whole is abundantly irrigated. 
 Its great depth draws all the streams of El Arabah into it. 
 Numerous rivulets descend on both sides from the hills ; and 
 to these causes, no doubt, it owed the fertile aspect in which 
 it appeared to Lot, when he chose it for the range of his 
 flocks. 
 
 " Moreover, it is more reasonable to suppose that the five 
 cities stood on this plain, than that they were scattered over 
 so large a space as that which is now occupied by the lake. 
 Each of the cities, we are told, had a king ; but the kings
 
 SODOM GOMORKAH, ETC. 315 
 
 of those days resemble the village sheikhs of modern times ; 
 and even granting that the cities were opulent, and had 
 dependant villages around them, still the plain was amply 
 sufficient to maintain them. In the east, the towns were 
 thickly planted, seldom at greater distances, as we learn from 
 their ruins, than three or four miles a space so large as 
 that which the waters of the lake now cover, considering its 
 great fertility, instead of containing five, would have contained 
 fifty cities. \- 
 
 "From the expression frequently used in scripture 
 ' Sodom and her daughters,' and from the circumstance of the 
 destruction of the cities being often mentioned simply as the 
 'overthrow of Sodom,' we infer that Sodom was the capital, 
 or at least the principal city of the pentapolis; and it is 
 probable that the other towns which perished with her were 
 ranged around her at no great distances. The exact part of the 
 plain in which Sodom was situated, we do not know; but 
 the following consideration will satisfy us, that its site could 
 not have been far from what are now the southern limits 
 of the lake. 
 
 "When Sodom fell, the little town of Zoar afforded refuge 
 to Lot. The time which Lot occupied in going thither, will 
 give us the distance of Sodom, the probable capital, from 
 Zoar. We read that 'there came two angels to Sodom at 
 even; and Lot sat in the gate of Sodom. And he said, 
 Behold now, my lords, turn in, I pray you, into your servant's 
 house and tarry all night.' During night, the angels 
 disclosed the approaching destruction of the city, and enjoined 
 Lot to leave it, which he did at day-break, but not earlier. 
 ' When the morning arose, then the angels hastened Lot,' &c. 
 Having set out, he reached the gates of Zoar at sunrise 
 'The sun was risen upon the earth, when Lot entered into 
 Zoar.' It thus appears that Lot occupied only two hours in 
 travelling between the two cities the time from day-break 
 till sunrise. Sodom, consequently, could not have been more 
 than six miles distant from Zoar; and thus, its site would
 
 316 SODOM GOMORRAH, ETC. 
 
 fall within the limits of the lower lake ; for the head of that 
 lake is three hours from Zoar the site of Zoar, which is 
 known at this day, adjoining the southern extremity of the 
 lake. Now, if we suppose that Sodom was the capital of the 
 cities, and had her tributary towns arranged around her, it 
 will appear probable that the site of all these cities was 
 comprised in what is now the basin of the lower lake. The 
 ground on which they stood being depressed by their over- 
 throw, the lake adjoining them on the north poured its waters 
 over the low barrier, and covered for ever from the eye of man, 
 this scene of enormous wickedness. Every consideration tends 
 to this conclusion. The geographical arrangement of the 
 region, and the construction of the lake, indicate that at some 
 former period it has been enlarged, and the traces of the 
 pristine beauties of the plain, which are still to be seen in 
 some places on its remaining portion, tell us that once it * was 
 well watered every where' * even as the garden of the Lord.' 
 Among the many judgments which God has inflicted on 
 our earth, the destruction of these cities, with the plain on 
 which they stood, is perhaps second, in terror, only to the 
 deluge." 
 
 There is, however, notwithstanding all our examinations 
 and all our speculation, a veil of awful mystery overhanging 
 this dread locality. It is at once a grave and a monument ; 
 a grave in which slumber the thousands whose daring ungod- 
 liness cut them off" from mercy a grave whose chambers 
 lead down to hell. It is a monument, on every hair-breadth 
 of which is recorded in characters of fiery desolation, the 
 irresistible terrors of a just a tempted an avenging God. 
 How astounding will be the blast of the archangel's trump 
 when clanging amidst those bleak and barren rocks, and 
 borne like a spell over the surface of those stagnant waters ; 
 when the resurrection-power of the Lord Jesus shall call up 
 into second life for final judgment, those objects of Almighty 
 wrath, and lay bare the gloomy secrets at which we surmise 
 and shudder.
 
 THE J011DAN. 317 
 
 Are there not cities as vile, and are there not hearts 
 
 as base, as those on which present desolation and the terrors 
 of hopeless judgment are resting? And, is the justice of the 
 Almighty slumbering? 
 
 Our plans would not admit of lingering upon the shores 
 of the Dead Sea. Soon after four o'clock in the morning we 
 were ready to mount. We had not advanced far, ere the 
 first crimson tints of the sun, like rays of promise, were just 
 visible over the level ridge of the mountains of Moab the 
 same sun which had risen over the same mountain ever since 
 the moment in which "God made two great lights, the 
 greater light to rule the day." 
 
 Our first intention was to proceed direct to the mouth 
 of the Jordan, and so to have coursed along its banks 
 to the particular part which, time out of mind, has been 
 visited by pilgrims of all climes, as the scene of our adorable 
 Redeemer's baptism ; but, finding that it would greatly 
 increase our labour, without really enhancing the interest 
 of the visit, by driving us into the heat of the day, we resolved 
 on taking a course north-east, and so reach the particular 
 spot in the most direct way. The plains of Jordan ! How 
 difficult it was to realize the fact, that my feet pressed them ; 
 that my eye gazed upon them. 
 
 The breadth of the valley of the Jordan is said to average 
 about fifteen miles ; and nearly in the middle of it is the 
 bed of the river. On the east are the plains of Moab, 
 bounded by the range of Abarim, with Nebo looking over 
 the valley. The plains on the west are more dreary in their 
 aspect than the eastern ones. They are bounded by the 
 mountains of Judea. They appear as if they had been 
 covered with powdered sulphur, with which saline particles 
 arc mixed. Not an object was seen in motion but ourselves. 
 The wide waste seemed like the abode of silence, and as 
 if death there held his court. And when we gazed upwards 
 to the mountains, it was difficult to believe that they should be
 
 318 THE JORDAN. 
 
 the haunts of men of tribes wild daring ferocious, whose 
 only law is that of the sword. 
 
 We proceeded over a waste sandy plain at the first, in 
 which our horses sank up to the fetlock joint. In about 
 an hour we reached the Jordan, fringed by beautifully 
 rich foliage of tamarisk, oleander, and other tall shrubs ; 
 the green of which was unspeakably lovely, springing up 
 as it seemed to do, out of the very aridness of the plains. 
 Our Bedaween distributed themselves at a distance in advance 
 of us, so as to command an extensive view, for which purpose 
 they ascended every knoll of sand and rising ground that lay 
 in their way, in order to be aware, if possible, of any of the 
 Beni Sakhrs lying in ambush, or coming down on us from 
 the mountains. They acted with the greatest precaution, 
 and had their weapon^ in hand ready for any surprise. 
 The course of the Jordan is, on either side, quite concealed 
 by the thick foliage which it nourishes ; and this is often 
 made a place of ambuscade, from which the Beni Sakhrs 
 fire upon loitering pilgrims. Happily we reached the place 
 of destination without the least molestation ; and our Arabs 
 distributed themselves so as to keep due watch while we 
 remained. The bed of the river is deep, and its course 
 extremely rapid ; so much so, that on the last occasion of the 
 general pilgrimage from Jerusalem, an aged Greek priest, 
 unable to resist its force, was carried down, and perished in 
 the waters of the Dead Sea. 
 
 The Jordan has its source a few miles north of Banias (the 
 ancient Ca)sarea Philippi), in a small pool on the western slope 
 of Gebel-es-Sheikh, or Hermon, the highest point of the anti- 
 Libanus of antiquity. It pursues its lovely course southward, 
 along the great Syrian valley ; thence it passes through the 
 waters of Merom and the Sea of Galilee, and finally contributes 
 its treasure to the Dead Sea. Its whole length is about one 
 hundred and fifty miles. As it proceeds onwards, sometimes 
 with great noise and force, and at others with a smooth 
 and silent flow, its stream, though but inconsiderable at first,
 
 THE JORDAN. 319 
 
 receives contributions in its way, from the many rivulets which 
 trickle from the hills of Galilee and Judea on the one side, 
 and from those of Gilead and Abarim on the other. I drank 
 very copiously of its delicious water, which has the softness 
 of milk. It was not easy to know when I had drunk enough. 
 I could but feel it was a great pity that such a delicious fluid 
 should waste its sweetness in the awful and bitter reservoir 
 of the Dead Sea. Perhaps the greatest refreshment I 
 experienced, was a delightful dip in the waters of Jordan, in 
 a lovely secluded part, overhung with tamarisks, oleanders, 
 and other luxuriantly growing trees, which afforded a grateful 
 shade. And it was a charming thought, as the sweet waters 
 passed over my head, that perhaps that very spot (for so 
 tradition affirmed), had been hallowed by the presence and 
 baptism of my Redeemer, and had witnessed the ministry 
 of that distinguished person who was the " voice of one crying 
 in the wilderness, prepare ye the way of the Lord." 
 
 The morning sun was now gaining power, and warning us to 
 leave the cool banks of the Jordan, that we might accomplish 
 our route across the plain to Jericho, before the intense heat 
 should overtake us. The most trying part of Palestine, in point 
 of heat, is said to be El Ghor, the plain which lay between us 
 and Jericho. After spending about an hour in and about the 
 Jordan, we resumed our route, striking directly across the 
 plain westward. We were, however, attracted by a small ruin 
 lying in a south-westerly direction to which we bent our 
 steps. The first thought was, that it might be Gilgal : but, 
 on reaching it, we ascertained that it was the ruin of a Greek 
 church and convent, originally intended for the accommodation 
 of pilgrims to the Jordan. Some remains of paintings, and an 
 inscription or two, were still visible on its shattered walls. It 
 has been in ruins for upwards of three hundred years. We 
 could not get more precise information about it from our 
 Arabs ; but Dr. Robinson appears to have been more successful. 
 From him I learn, that the native Christians call it Deir Mar 
 Yohanna Hajla, to distinguish it from the remains of another 
 convent dedicated to John the Baptist, near the River farther 
 north.
 
 320 THE PLAIN OF JERICHO. 
 
 Our way towards Jericho was over a plain, which from the 
 nature of the soil seemed capable of fruitful cultivation. It 
 afforded pasturage for cattle in various parts, and low 
 stunted shrubs in others ; and here and there, we saw small 
 parties of Arabs of the same tribe as our escort, gathered 
 round their fires, even at a time when the sun was very 
 powerful. "We did not pass near enough to exchange 
 salutations with them. We were soon upon the plain of 
 Jericho, with sufficient traces of ancient fruitfulness on every 
 side, to satisfy the observer that the ancient descriptions were 
 correct. Justin (who describes it as it was but a little while 
 after the time of Christ), says that it is a valley like a garden, 
 environed by continual hills which enclose it like a wall, 
 containing two hundred thousand acres, and famous for its 
 woods, especially its palm trees and opobalsams. 1 The state- 
 ments of Josephus are to the same effect. He says " There 
 
 are in it many sorts of palm-trees different from each 
 
 other in taste and name ; the better sort of them when they 
 are pressed, yield an excellent kind of honey, not much 
 inferior in sweetness to other honey. It also bears that balsam 
 which is the most precious of all the fruits of that place; 
 
 cypress trees also, and those that bear myrobalanum 
 
 It will not be easy to light on any climate in the habitable 
 earth that can well be compared with it what is here sown, 
 comes up in such clusters. The ambient air is here also 
 of so good a temperature, that the people of the country are 
 clothed in linen only, even when the snow covers the rest 
 of Judea." 2 The account of Tacitus agrees with this. But how 
 great is the change. The plain is still the same ; the mountains 
 of Judea have not changed their places ; but the balsams are 
 gone, the stately palm trees wave not in the breeze ; nor are skill 
 and industry in active service to aid the deficiencies of nature. 
 
 "We were not long in reaching the miserable remains of a 
 poor village, usually called Jericho. But instead of this, 
 
 1 Palscslina Illustrata, torn I, p. 383. 
 " Josephus "Wars of the Jews," book iv. chap. viii. sec. 3.
 
 JERICHO. 321 
 
 there is some probability from the accounts of Josephus, that 
 it is Gilgal; and that the far more extensive ruins beyond 
 mark the site of Jericho. That Jericho really stood thereabouts, 
 and Ai not far distant, is beyond all doubt. The position 
 of the city Jericho must have been charming indeed, looking 
 down, as it did, upon the plain of Jordan, bounded by the 
 hills of Moab. Hound about those ruins, which I deem to 
 be Jericho, there is a considerable cultivation of excellent 
 land. Indian wheat, common wheat, with fig and nabbukh 
 trees abound on all sides. The supply of water is ample ; and 
 if extensive irrigation were introduced the fertility of the soil 
 would be incredible. 
 
 While I write, I can, in imaginative recollection, stand on 
 the site of Jericho ; and while looking down towards Jordan, 
 can bring upon the scene the shadows of men, and of events 
 
 in man's history, which make the heart vibrate. There 
 
 is a vast company which no man can number, crowded 
 upon the plains of Moab. They are a bannered host, and 
 terrible in their bearing. There is a stir of preparation. The 
 dust of the plain rises in clouds about them. There is a noble 
 chief in the midst, haranguing the surrounding thousands. 
 They are on the brink of Jordan. Those thousands are the 
 people of Israel. That chief is Joshua, bearing his high 
 commission to bring the people over Jordan into the 
 promised land the land flowing with milk and honey, which 
 is the glory of all lands. The priests are uplifting the ark 
 of the covenant. They advance to the van. The people press 
 forward in eager expectation. Their wanderings are at an 
 end. Their warfare is about to begin. The Lord of Hosts 
 is with them, and with Joshua the man of God. They still 
 advance. The feet of those that bear the ark are dipped in 
 the brim of the water; and marvellous to tell (surely 
 the Lord is in the midst of them) while I gaze, the waters 
 which came down from above are standing up upon a heap, 
 very far from the city Adam, that is beside Zaretan : and the 
 waters which came down toward the sea of the plain, even 
 the salt sea, are failing: see they have failed, and are cut
 
 322 JERICHO JORDAN. 
 
 off. It is the miraculous working of Jehovah. The people 
 are passing over Jordan right against Jericho. Jordan is 
 driven back. The priests bearing the ark of the covenant 
 of the Lord, are standing firm on the dry ground in the 
 midst of the river-bed, and the thousands of Israel have passed 
 over on dry ground. "What ailed thee, O Jordan, that thou 
 wast driven back?" Thou hast heard the voice of Jehovah 
 and obeyed it. He hath performed his covenant. Israel is 
 in the promised land. The priests, too, who bore the ark 
 of the covenant are come up out of the midst of Jordan; 
 the waters of Jordan are returning to their place : the 
 laws of nature are restored: and now now the sparkling 
 stream overflows its banks as it did before. And hark 
 listen to the voice of the leader to the voice of Joshua. 
 The exulting people are hanging on his lips : " When your 
 children shall ask their fathers in time to come, What mean 
 these stones ? Then ye shall let your children know, saying, 
 Israel came over this Jordan on dry land. For the Lord 
 your God dried up the waters of Jordan from before you, 
 until ye were passed over, as the Lord your God did to the 
 Red Sea, which he dried up from before us, until we were 
 gone over : that all the people of the earth might know the 
 hand of the Lord, that it is mighty : that ye might fear the 
 Lord your God for ever." 1 
 
 I felt myself to be standing on the scene of wonderful 
 transactions as I looked upon the remains of Jericho. Israel 
 came up mightily from Jordan "And it came to pass, when 
 all the kings of the Amorites, which were on the side 
 of Jordan westward, and all the kings of the Canaanites, which 
 were by the sea, heard that the Lord had dried up the waters 
 of Jordan from before the children of Israel, until they were 
 passed over, that their heart melted, neither was there spirit 
 in them any more because of the children of Israel." 2 The 
 conquest of Canaan had already actually begun in the faint- 
 heartedness of the kings, when Joshua having circumcised 
 
 1 See Joshua iii. ir. J Joshua v. 1.
 
 JERICHO. 33 
 
 the people, and rolled away the reproach of Egypt from them, 1 
 beheld them encamped at Gilgal, in the plains of Jericho. 2 
 
 And there stood Jericho in the pride of her strength the 
 devoted city. Joshua surveyed her fastnesses. The word 
 of Jehovah was with him. "And it came to pass that when 
 Joshua was by Jericho, that he lifted up his eyes and looked, 
 and behold there stood a man over against him with his 
 sword drawn in his hand : and Joshua went unto him and 
 said unto him, Art thou for us or for our adversaries ? And 
 he said, Nay: but as captain of the host of the Lord am I 
 now come. And Joshua fell on his face to the earth, and did 
 worship, and said unto him, What saith my Lord unto his 
 servant? And the captain of the Lord's host said unto 
 Joshua, Loose thy shoe from off thy foot, for the place 
 whereon thou standest is holy." 3 The God of Israel was 
 then preparing for his mighty work, while Jericho was straitly 
 shut up because of the children of Israel. Six times and for 
 six days did the priests, bearing the ark of the covenant, 
 compass the city, blowing with the trumpets of rams' horns 
 according to the commandment ; while bands of armed men 
 swelled the train, amidst the silence of the thousands of Israel, 
 who shouted not, nor uttered any voice. Jericho still stood 
 in her pride of place. The seventh day dawned upon her. 
 Seven times, on that seventh day, did the priests compass her 
 about, still bearing the ark of the covenant. The last step 
 was taken. The work of preparation was complete. "And 
 it came to pass at the seventh time, when the priests blew with 
 the trumpets, Joshua said unto the people, Shout; for the 
 Lord hath given you the city. And the city shall be accursed, 
 even it, and all that are therein, to the Lord ; only Rahab the 
 harlot shall live, she and all that are in her house, because 
 
 she hid the messengers that we sent so the people 
 
 shouted when the priests blew with the trumpets; and it 
 came to pass, when the people heard the sound of the trumpet 
 and the people shouted with a great shout, that the wall fell 
 
 1 Joshua v. 9. 2 Joshua v. 10. * Joshua v 1315.
 
 324 JERICHO. 
 
 down flat, so that the people went up into the city, every man 
 
 straight before him, and they took the city And Joshua 
 
 adjured them at that time, saying, Cursed be the man before 
 the Lord, that raiseth up and buildeth this city Jericho : he 
 shall lay the foundation thereof in his first-born, and in his 
 youngest son shall he set up the gates of it." l 
 
 The curse of Jehovah thus rested on the fallen greatness 
 of Jericho. Who can stand against the Lord of Hosts, when 
 his word has gone forth? The word was literally fulfilled 
 more than five hundred years after it was uttered, in the time 
 of Ahab ; for " in his days did Hiel the Beth-elite build 
 Jericho : he laid the foundation thereof in Abiram his first- 
 born, and set up the gates thereof in his youngest son Segub, 
 according to the word of the Lord, which he spake by Joshua, 
 the son of Nun ;" 2 but as it appears, that during the interval 3 
 there existed a city called the City of Palm Trees, or Jericho, 
 it has been conjectured, that the act against which the curse 
 was directed, was an attempt at the restoration of the walls 
 the very walls which had been miraculously cast down. 
 
 Jericho was one of the Levitical cities. In the time of our 
 Lord, it was next in size and political importance to Jerusalem 
 itself. It was much adorned by Herod; and contained a 
 stately palace and other public buildings erected by him. 
 It experienced many vicissitudes. Till it was sacked by 
 Vespasian, it grew in importance ; after which event, it was 
 repaired by Adrian, and at length became the see of a bishop 
 under Justinian. It was finally destroyed in the twelfth 
 century of the Christian era, by the troops of Saladin : and 
 now an inconsiderable heap of ruins remains to declare 
 This was Jericho ! 
 
 It is probable that our Redeemer frequently visited Jericho ; 
 but it is made distinctly memorable in reference to him, 
 
 1 See Joshua vi. 2 1 Kings xvi. 34. 
 
 * See Judges i. 16; iii. 13; 2 Sam. x. 5.
 
 FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. 325 
 
 on the occasion of his last approach to Jerusalem, when the 
 time of his offering up was at hand. It was there that he 
 declared, concerning the eager and inquiring Zaccheus, " This 
 day is salvation come to this house, forasmuch as he also is a 
 son of Abraham : for the Son of Man is come to seek and to 
 save that which is lost." 1 
 
 The distance of Jericho from the Kiver Jordan, is computed 
 at about seven English miles. Lying across a plain, over which 
 the eye glances rapidly, and seen in an exceedingly clear 
 atmosphere, the distance appears less. Jericho is distant from 
 Jerusalem nearly nineteen English miles, by a mountainous 
 and difficult road, of which I shall have occasion by and by 
 to speak. 
 
 Having been for some hours exposed to the heat of the 
 morning sun, it was delightful to hear the sound of running 
 water, amidst some overhanging trees of considerable growth. 
 We hoped our servants and Arabs were not far distant. 
 Suddenly we took a turn in the road and there, stretched along 
 in the shade, lay the whole party whom we had sent in advance 
 from the Dead Sea. Our breakfast, consisting of coarse 
 bread, figs, honey and coffee, was spread for us under the 
 deep shadow of a noble nabbukh tree, impervious to the sun, 
 while close at hand, and at our very feet, as we reclined, ran 
 a rapid stream, as clear as crystal, fringed with water-cresses, 
 and flowing immediately from Ayun es Sultan the fountain 
 of Elisha. I never shall cease to remember that precious 
 precious stream. We drank copiously of its cool, sweet 
 waters ; and I could have said here let me rest all the day. 
 Its water-cresses were delicious. The Arabs do not seem to 
 understand the value of them. It was a charming spot in 
 which we took our morning rest and refreshment, embosomed 
 in thick, lofty trees, of various kinds, such as pomegranates, 
 figs, and nabbukhs. 
 
 1 Luke xix. 111,
 
 326 FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. 
 
 After breakfast, we went forth to explore the fountain 
 of Elisha the " Diamond of the Desert," as it was called in the 
 days of the Crusaders. We found it distant between two and 
 three hundred yards, bubbling up from the bed of the rock, 
 over which it flowed. It had the appearance of boiling 
 water, and flowed with great force and rapidity. It is a 
 secluded nook, and overhung by broad-leaved fig trees and 
 nabbukhs : and here, too, we found specimens of what I 
 believe were accounted the "Apples of Sodom," none of which 
 I had, however, seen at any spot nearer to the Dead Sea. 
 They were as yellow as gold; and varying in size, from 
 that of a hazel nut to that of a very large walnut. They 
 grew upon a harsh prickly stem. It was a solemn thought, 
 that the now sweet fountain of Elisha, once "naught," had 
 been the subject of miraculous working. The prophet had 
 been there : the power of God had been there too, working 
 through him. " The men of the city (Jericho) said unto Elisha, 
 Behold, I pray thee, the situation of this city is pleasant, as 
 my lord seeth; but the water is naught, and the ground 
 barren. And he said, Bring me a new cruse, and put salt 
 therein. And they brought it to him. And he went forth 
 unto the spring of the waters, and cast the salt in there, and 
 said, Thus saith the Lord, I have healed these waters : there 
 shall not be from thence any more death or barren land. 
 So the waters were healed unto this day, according to the 
 saying of Elisha, which he spake." 1 The waters were indeed 
 healed they were sweet and delicious. The power of the 
 miracle has not passed away. 
 
 At twelve o'clock we renewed our march towards Jerusalem, 
 by the ancient road trodden by the feet of our adorable 
 Redeemer. I thought of the parable of the good Samaritan : 
 "A certain man went down from Jerusalem to Jericho, and 
 fell among thieves," &c.; and certainly it still retains the wild 
 aspect of a scene of rapine and murder. It is solitary, 
 secluded and savage. Indeed, even in the present day, it is 
 
 2 Kings ii. 19-22.
 
 EOAD BETWEEN JERUSALEM AND JERICHO. 327 
 
 an exceedingly dangerous road ; and the traveller who omits 
 to take with him a sufficient, vigilant, and well-armed escort, 
 must expect to be plundered, even at noonday. While we 
 were on our way to Jerusalem, a small body of Arabs came 
 down upon us, whose appearance and manner left no doubt 
 that had our party been weaker than theirs, we should have 
 been sufferers. They were a half-famished, hungry-looking 
 set, and clad in a few rags, with their matchlock guns in their 
 hands. They seemed at first to shew us their teeth but dared 
 not do more than that, as we could have overpowered them 
 at the onset. A few words were exchanged as we passed on 
 steadily, just keeping watch that they made no reinforcement 
 from the surrounding mountains. 
 
 The route from Jericho to Jerusalem is, in many places, 
 fatiguingly steep and difficult; and so shut in by mountain 
 heights and savage crags, that scarcely any breeze can 
 reach the traveller; and when, as in our case, the vertical 
 sun sends down his beams into the narrow passes, the heat 
 reflected from the chalky sides of the ravine, scorches 
 like a furnace. I felt the effect of it on the skin of my 
 face for a long while after; but we experienced no real or 
 lasting injury. It was by far the most trying part of our 
 expedition, and occupied six hours. By the mercy of God 
 we reached Jerusalem in perfect safety, crossing the Mount 
 of Olives in our way, and re-entering the city by the gate 
 of St. Stephen. 
 
 I dwell upon the recollection of this expedition with 
 mingled feelings of delight and gratitude. Not one danger 
 overtook us : not one untoward circumstance happened ; and 
 there is deposited in my mind, a vivid picture bright 
 beautiful, solemn that can never pass away. Would that I 
 could communicate it, with all its wonderful reality, to the 
 mind of my attentive reader but I cannot. I have done 
 what I could.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 JERUSALEM, SYCHAR, NAZAEETH, ic, 
 
 MV LAST SABBATH IN JERUSALEM PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE DEPARTURE 
 
 FROM JERUSALEM GIBBON BEERI (BEEROTH) BETHEL SHILOH 
 
 BIR EL LEBYAN MOUNTAINS OF EPHRA1M THE GROUND BOUGHT BY 
 
 JACOB, OF THE SONS OF HAMOR JACOB'S WELL MOUNTS EBAL AND 
 
 GERIZIM JOSEPH'S TOMB SYCHAR (NABLOUS) BIR SHARATH SAMARIA 
 
 SEBASTE ROAD TO NAZARETH EMBARRASSMENT JENIN PLAIN OF 
 
 ESDHAELON NAZARETH ANCIENT WELL OF NAZARETH MOUNT TABOR 
 
 APPROACH TO THE SEA OF GALILEE TIBERIAS THE SEA OF GALILEE 
 
 CANA OF GALILEE SCRIPTURE IMAGERY ADVENTURE JOURNEY TOWARDS 
 
 MOUNT CARMEL AMUSING MISAPPREHENSION RIVER KISHON MOUNT 
 
 CARMEL LATIN CONVENT ON MOUNT CARMEL SCHOOLS OF THE PROPHETS 
 
 ACRE JOURNEY TOWARDS TYRE AND SIDON SCORPIANS CAPE BLANCO 
 
 SCA.L1E TYRIORUM RAS-EL-AYUN TYRE SAREPTA SIDON NABY 
 
 YOUNES ALBANIAN SOLDIERS, ETC. ARRIVAL AT BEYROUT BEYROUT 
 
 LEBANON THE TRIBES OF LEBANON ROUTE TO BAALBEC THE BEKAA 
 
 NABEY NOAH NABEY SHEETH BAALBEC DEIR EL AKHMAR AYUN EL 
 
 TEENE ASCENT OF LEBANON THE CEDARS OF LEBANON RETURN TO 
 
 BEYROUT CHRISTIAN EDUCATION IN SYRIA ANCIENT CHURCH OF SYRIA. 
 
 JERUSALEM had become my home. It was with unspeakable 
 delight that I again traversed the Mount of Olives, and beheld 
 the Holy City lying before me, bathed in the rich tintings 
 of the evening sun. When shall the Sun of Righteousness again 
 rise upon her, with healing in His wings ? "We passed slowly 
 down the descent pausing a moment at Gethsemane, and 
 marking the spot, not far distant, where they stoned the first 
 Christian martyr Stephen, calling upon God, and saying, 
 "Lord Jesus receive my spirit." The blood of the martyr still 
 cries from the ground. Jerusalem cannot now hear the cry her 
 ears are closed. There is a day coming in which it will break 
 forth upon her awakened sense with a voice of thunder.
 
 330 MY LAST SABBATH IN JERUSALEM. 
 
 It was a time of delightful repose which we passed, 
 immediately after our return, within the cool walls of our 
 convent-home, awaiting the dawn of the coming sabbath. 
 
 My last Sabbath in Jerusalem ! There was a 
 
 melancholy feeling mingled in the joy with which I 
 welcomed the light of that holy day. Earthly sabbaths 
 must have an end, but I looked forward in humble and 
 hopeful anticipation to the eternal " sabbath-keeping" of the 
 people of God. 1 I was permitted once more to worship on 
 Mount Zion. It was a season of serenity and peace. The 
 evening was spent, as usual, with the good Bishop and his 
 family, in religious exercises and profitable conversation. 
 The Bishop solemnly laid it in charge upon us that we 
 should "pray for the peace of Jerusalem," and reminded us 
 that they shall prosper who love her. 2 Oh that the church 
 may be thoroughly awakened to the claims of Jerusalem, and 
 that her heart may ere long yearn over the scattered thousands 
 of Israel ! I thank God that our own national church has 
 made her stand. I look to Jerusalem now, with many a 
 bright hope glowing in my heart. Does any man say 
 " Where is the Diocese where is the Church in Jerusalem ?" 
 I turn to the word of prophecy : I hang upon the word 
 of promise : I dwell on the immutable sanctity of the covenant ; 
 and there I find a fitting answer the answer, not for the men 
 of this world, but for the people of God. When James was 
 consecrated first Bishop of the church in Jerusalem, doubtless 
 there were men ready to say "Where is the Diocese 
 where is the Church ?" The blindness of heart which then 
 existed, has been perpetuated is still manifest while we bid 
 men regard the spiritual effort of our beloved church in 
 Jerusalem, and say " This hath God wrought." 
 
 As the day of our departure from the Holy City was 
 drawing near, I availed myself of every opportunity for 
 
 1 Heb. iv. 9. There remaineth therefore a rest (aa{3j3<nio/u,os a sabbath- 
 faepiny) to the people of God. 
 
 2 Psalm cxxii. 6.
 
 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. 331 
 
 visiting again and again the sacred localities of which I have 
 already given a faint description ; sometimes prolonging my 
 stay among them till the setting sun gave notice of the closing 
 of the city gates. Between five and six o'clock, in the 
 morning of the fifth of July, I made my last visit to the 
 Garden of Gethsemane. It was a lovely, quiet scene and 
 season. I seated myself under the shadow of one of the 
 ancient olive trees, overlooking the spot of our Lord's 
 betrayal the terra damnata: there I read and meditated 
 upon the narratives of the four evangelists, and gave myself up 
 to the deep contemplation of them. Though it was a matter 
 of unspeakable delight, thus, on the very spot, to dwell on the 
 marvellous record, yet I think the recollection is still more 
 delightful more beneficial. As I have already taken occasion 
 to observe it is the clinging to visible things to memorials 
 and to symbols, that has served to make the churches of the west 
 and of the east so feeble in genuine faith, and so superstitious. 
 Faith lives and expands while gazing on the invisible on 
 those things which the Spirit of God reveals, and which are 
 only spiritually discerned. Yet it is a delightful exercise 
 to walk where the Saviour walked to read and meditate and 
 worship where he agonized and prayed ; and it is not 
 without its use. 
 
 July 6th. This was the day of our departure from Jerusalem. 
 It was a heavy day to me ; for I felt as if about to quit one 
 of the dearest spots of the earth. The three weeks of my 
 sojourn had glided away all too rapidly. The morning was 
 employed in packing and making ready our moveables, which 
 had accompanied us in all the previous journeys. We had 
 intended to start at two o'clock in the afternoon, in the hope 
 of reaching Beyteen (Bethel) by sunset; but it was quite 
 impossible to get the Muleteers to move with any thing like 
 punctuality. No wheeled carriages of any kind are to be 
 seen in Palestine ; and if they were in existence, it would be 
 utterly impossible to make way with them upon the stony 
 and precipitous roads. All baggage is borne upon the backs 
 of mules and asses, in the most primitive manner.
 
 332 DEPARTURE FROM JERUSALEM. 
 
 By about five o'clock we were loaded and ready to start. 
 We left a suitable gratuity for our friends of the Latin 
 convent, and found our horses awaiting us at the convent 
 gates. We quitted the city by the Bethlehem gate, and took 
 a last view of the heights of Mount Zion and the valley 
 of Hinnom, as we awaited the arrival of our cavalcade, without 
 the city walls. As we passed out of the city, we saw several 
 lepers sitting by themselves, not far from the gate, soliciting 
 charity from those who passed in and out. They presented a 
 sad picture of suffering, wretchedness, and destitution. 
 
 Our party was soon assembled. The cavalcade consisted 
 of four mules and two asses, with the tents and baggage; 
 each animal attended by a driver, one of whom was a Nubian 
 slave tall, slim, and as black as polished ebony. Then 
 came the servants, who like ourselves were very fairly mounted 
 on compact little palfreys supplied to us at Jerusalem. We 
 took a north-westerly direction ; and for rather more than half 
 an hour, Jerusalem and its surrounding heights were still in 
 sight. Again and again I paused and looked back as for a last 
 glance. At length, between us and the city there lay a wide 
 spreading track covered with vineyards and olive plantations, 
 which gave an air of freshness and fertility to the otherwise 
 bare and parched appearance of the soil. Another step and 
 I felt that Jerusalem would be no longer visible. I gazed 
 then for the last time indeed, upon the scene of my Saviour's 
 humiliation and triumph. The last object I saw, was the 
 Mount of Olives, and the scene of the ascension. Henceforth, 
 Jerusalem will be to me a lovely a stately vision, ever 
 present to my mind and to my heart. Mountains and valleys 
 and oceans are now between us ; but the mental portraiture 
 can never be obliterated. 
 
 Our route was dull, rugged, and dreary. Several points 
 of great interest, however, presented themselves as we pro- 
 ceeded : such as Naby-Samuel about two hours distant from 
 Jerusalem, occupying the summit of a terraced hill. For many 
 centuries this spot has been deemed the ancient Ramah, the
 
 GIBEON BEERI (fiEEROTH). 
 
 birth and burial place of the prophet Samuel the spot from 
 which he often surveyed and deplored the coming desolations 
 of Judah, and contemplated the humbling apostacy of her 
 king. Not far distant and upon an elevation of nearly equal 
 height, was Bet-hanina (probably the abode of Hannah the 
 mother of Samuel), and upon another, was Gibeah of Saul 
 and Micmash. In front of us, and somewhat to the right, 
 was El Geeb the ancient Gibeon, which " was a great city, 
 
 and one of the royal cities greater than Ai, and all the 
 
 men thereof were mighty." The hill on which these remains 
 now stand is remarkably round, and terraced in such a 
 manner, that from a distance it has the appearance of being 
 ascendible by a regularly formed flight of stairs on all sides. 
 
 " Sun, stand thou still upon Gibeon, and thou moon, in the 
 
 valley of Ajalon." It was the scene of a marvellous transaction, 
 and the place of a terrible slaughter, when the kings of the 
 Amorites had gathered together against it, and when Joshua 
 in the strength of the Lord, "discomfited them before Israel, 
 and slew them with a great slaughter at Gibeon, and chased 
 them along the way that goeth up to Beth-horon, and smote 
 them to Azekah and unto Makkedah." 1 Many and interesting 
 are the scripture incidents of which Gibeon was the scene. 2 
 We did not ascend its heights, being desirous of reaching 
 Beeri as early as possible after sunset. It was somewhat to 
 have fixed our eyes upon so celebrated a locality. 
 
 A continued ride of about four hours brought us to Beeri, 
 the ancient Beeroth, where we resolved on pitching our tents 
 for the night. Close by the spot selected was a delicious 
 spring, the sound of which fell pleasantly on our ears after 
 the heat and wearisomeness of our journey, as it gushed forth 
 and deposited its streams in a rude stone trough, from whence 
 it was turned into a small rill which wound among the gardens 
 of the village. The village itself is poor and insignificant; 
 although when we arrived in the darkness of the evening, 
 the sounds of dogs, loud and numerous, gave the idea of 
 
 1 Joshua x. 10, &c. 2 See 2 Sam. ii 12 ; xx. 8 ; 1 Kings ii. 5 ; iii. 5.
 
 334 GIBBON BEERI (BEEROTH). 
 
 magnitude. The stars came forth with great lustre and beauty 
 while we pitched our tents, surrounding us with their 
 gentle influence ; and it was a delightful thought that in this 
 very spot, probably, it was first discovered by Joseph and 
 Mary, that the Child Jesus was not of their company as they 
 were returning from Jerusalem, by this route, to Nazareth. 
 There seems to be a very ancient tradition in favour of this ; 
 and so far as I could learn, no other ancient well 1 was to be 
 found within the distance mentioned in scripture, on the high, 
 road to Nazareth ; and it is certain, that then, as now, journeys 
 were much regulated as to their distance by wells. There 
 is nothing peculiar, or even picturesque about the spot ; but 
 it was pleasant to repose there, and to drink of the fountain 
 which probably had quenched the thirst of the holy family 
 and their companions. Two other matters recorded in scrip- 
 ture are also associated with this neighbourhood; the first 
 of these is, that "Jotham ran away, and fled, and went to 
 Beer, and dwelt there, for fear of Abimelech his brother." 2 
 The other is, that somewhere thereabouts was the abode 
 of Deborah, the prophetess, who is said to have " dwelt under 
 the palin tree of Deborah, between Ramah and Bethel." 3 
 
 Soon after sunrise on the following morning, we were 
 on horseback. The women of Beeri were early at the 
 fountain; some filling their earthen pitchers, and others 
 washing clothes in the stream. It was a pleasant picture, 
 especially as it presented to us the people pursuing the 
 customs which had been continued for ages. Our first intention 
 after quitting Beeri, was to visit the remains of Bethel, now 
 called Beyteen. For this purpose we made a detour from the 
 main path, turning off, in an easterly direction at "VVadey 
 Geeb, about two hours distant from the fountain. The remains 
 of Bethel are still extensive, and present a sufficiently distinct 
 idea of its site, plan and formation, even in the details of its 
 
 1 This fountain, or well, was doubtless a distinguished one: inasmuch as the 
 village takes its name from it. 
 
 2 Judges ix. 21. 8 Judges iv. 5.
 
 BETHEL SHILOH. 335 
 
 streets. This was the ancient Luz ; at least antiquarians and 
 most modern travellers are agreed in deeming it such. If so, 
 then it was the scene of Jacob'-s remarkable and blessed vision, 
 as he went from Beersheba towards Haran, which constrained 
 him to say, " How dreadful is this place ! It is none other but 
 
 the house of God, and this is the gate of heaven And 
 
 he called the name of that place Beth-el." 1 Beyteen (or 
 Beth-el) is now scarcely inhabited. We found one family, 
 who offered us goat's milk ; and two or three straggling Arabs 
 among the ruins. It is a scene of perfect desolation. Beth-el 
 has indeed "come to naught." 2 "We found reapers engaged 
 among the scanty crops of the valleys around. 
 
 We find frequent mention of Bethel in the sacred writings. 
 When the ten tribes revolted during the reign of Rehoboam, 
 it was included in the new kingdom of Israel. It was here 
 that Jeroboam set up one of his golden calves. On this 
 account it was called by the prophet Hosea, Beth-aven not 
 the house of God as Jacob had named it, but the house 
 of Idols, or of vanity. It was seized upon by Abijah, king 
 of Judah, out of the hands of Jeroboam, but was soon restored 
 to the kings of Israel. 3 On the first division of the land by 
 Joshua, it was allotted to the tribe of Benjamin. 
 
 Having rejoined our party in the main path, we proceeded 
 till about eleven o'clock, through a country in some places 
 bare, sterile, and desolate, yet with many remaining traces 
 of ancient cultivation and fruitfulness. Thin crops of grain 
 were here and there ripened for harvest, in the sweeping 
 valleys. A detour, which cost us full three hours, gave an 
 opportunity of visiting the remains of Shiloh, now called 
 Siloun. Its geographical position is clearly laid down in 
 scripture, where it is said to be a "place which is on the 
 side of Beth-el, on the east side of the highway that goeth up 
 from Bethel to Shechem, and on the south of Lebonah."* 
 
 1 Genesis xxviii. 1019. 2 Amos v. 5. 
 
 3 2 Chron. xiii. 19. 4 Judges xxi. 19.
 
 336 SHILOH. 
 
 With this, Siloun agrees exactly ; and I am not aware of any 
 other remains that can dispute with it the claim to the desired 
 identity. Beside this, its present name contains in it the 
 elements of the original as Professor Robinson observes, 
 "The full form of the Hebrew name was apparently Shilon, 
 as we find it in the Gentile noun Shilonite; and Josephus 
 writes it also, Silo and Siloun." Few, if any, of the remains 
 of ancient Shiloh are to be found, amidst the ruins yet 
 visible on the height. Indeed there is scarcely any thing 
 worthy of attention, except a kind of tower or chapel of 
 about twenty feet square, and some ruinous tombs eastward. 
 The former is overshadowed by a splendid and venerable 
 nabbukh tree, under which we tethered our horses and rested 
 ourselves. We found many tessalae the remains of ancient 
 pavements. 
 
 Shiloh is an interesting spot on many accounts. It was 
 there that the tabernacle of the congregation was set up, when 
 the children of Israel were assembled together after the land 
 had been subdued before them; and there also it was that 
 the last division of the territory was made among the tribes 
 of Israel. 1 From the time of Joshua, down to the close 
 of Eli's ministry, the ark and the tabernacle continued there ; 
 and there, too, the child Samuel was consecrated to God in 
 the service of the sanctuary. 2 When among the ruins of Shiloh, 
 I did not call to mind the solemn words of Jehovah by 
 his servant Jeremiah "Go ye now unto my place which 
 was in Shiloh, where I set my name at the first, and see what 
 I did to it for the wickedness of my people Israel." 3 But now, 
 while recalling the scene, and pondering the subject of Israel's 
 unfaithfulness, they speak the stern language of awful admo- 
 nition. Viewed in the light of scripture, Shiloh is at once a 
 hoary memorial of the baseness of man, and of the righteous 
 indignation of God. National sin brought down national 
 judgments upon God's most favoured people. History 
 records the fact inspiration confirms, and weeping Judea 
 
 1 Joshua xviii. 110. 2 1 Sam. i. ir. 3 Jeremiah vii. 12.
 
 BIR-EL-LEBYAN MOUNTAINS OF EPHRAIM. 331 
 
 now echoes it. Is national sin no longer hateful in the eyes 
 of a holy God ? Does his vengeance slumber ? Should we 
 not be heedful ? 
 
 Quitting Shiloh, we took a circuitous route through winding 
 valleys and mountain passes clothed with tamarisk and other 
 graceful shrubs, till we arrived at a ruinous structure called 
 Khan-el-Lebyan, near the ancient fountain Bir-el-Lebyan, 
 around which a party of Syrian shepherds were gathered with 
 their numerous flocks of sheep and goats. The assemblage 
 about a well in the east, always presents a charming and 
 interesting picture of that mode of early pastoral life, with 
 which the page of scripture makes us so familiar. We paused 
 but for a moment, and rejoined our escort who were awaiting 
 us for the midday rest, under the shade of a thick olive 
 plantation on the height of a mountain brow, from which we 
 commanded an extensive plain, encompassed by gracefully 
 swelling elevations, partially cultivated at the base and every- 
 where exhibiting traces of ancient terraces, where the vine 
 and olive had once abounded, in the fruitful days of Palestine. 
 It was two o'clock when we reached this spot; and the sun 
 had for several hours been triumphing in his strength. The 
 hour of repose was welcome indeed, and so was the homely 
 meal, provided for us at our usual gypsy-fire. It was not 
 until five o'clock that we yielded to the necessity for pressing 
 onwards repose was so sweet. 
 
 We had quitted the territory of Benjamin, and were now 
 upon the mountains of Ephraim, amidst small quiet villages 
 and ancient sites, presenting themselves here and there at 
 almost every turn of the road, which must have been frequently 
 traversed by our adorable Redeemer when passing from Jeru- 
 salem to Galilee. It was the main, direct perhaps the only 
 road. A wide and partially cultivated plain extended itself, 
 shut in by the heights of Ephraim, across which we pursued 
 our way. It is called Wadey el Luban. At the north-west 
 end of it, and occupying a site of considerable elevation, is 
 the village of Luban, believed to be the ancient Lebonah.
 
 338 THE GROUND BOUGHT BY JACOB OF THE SONS Or HAMOR. 
 
 Finding it quite impossible to reach Nablous during the 
 evening march, we pitched the tents upon a threshing floor, 
 near a small agricultural village called Hawarah, where we 
 were soon surrounded by a large party of Syrian shepherds 
 and villagers, from whom we obtained a good supply of 
 delicious milk and cheese, and excellent water, for a trifling 
 remuneration. We had been on horseback for about eleven 
 hours altogether, and were heartily glad when our couches 
 were prepared for our reception. 
 
 Next morning by six o'clock, we resumed our journey 
 towards Nablous. Even at that early hour, the sun was 
 intensely hot, and began to be oppressive. For about an 
 hour and half, our way was along a delightful and enclosed 
 valley, in a very fair state of cultivation, considering the 
 miserable condition of the poor Syrian population. The chief 
 productions are millet, the cotton plant, and both* Indian and 
 common wheat. From this valley we were soon ushered into 
 an extensive plain much cultivated in like manner, and which 
 could not be less than eight or ten miles northward, and in 
 breadth about three or four, bounded by finely-lined mountains 
 scattered over with villages. On entering the plain, we made 
 our way close under the western ridge, from whence we 
 commanded its whole extent. How fertile how abundantly 
 prolific must it have been in the days of Israel's prosperity. 
 It is a memorable spot the parcel of ground which Jacob 
 bought "of the hands of the children of Hamor," 1 and " gave 
 to his son Joseph ;" the scene of frequent assemblage for the 
 tribes of Israel. The plain is well watered by streams flowing 
 from the "full-fountained" city of Nablous, and is so exceed- 
 ingly verdant and fruitful, that (as Maundrell has strikingly 
 observed) "it may be looked upon as a standing token of the 
 tender aflection of that good patriarch to the best of sons." 
 
 Westward of this notable plain, stand the mountains Ebal 
 and Gerizim prominent and picturesque features of this most 
 interesting landscape. 
 
 1 Genesis xxxiii. 18, 19.
 
 JACOB'S WELL MOUNTS EBAL AND GERIZIM. 339 
 
 Bearing away towards the west, the plain narrows into a 
 valley lying between Ebal and Gerizim, and leading towards 
 Nablous, which has usually been deemed the Shechem of the 
 Old, and the Sychar of the New Testament ; though there is 
 some ground for believing that a small village, called Aschar, 
 lying in a northerly direction, and not so distant from, the 
 plain as Nablous, may be the true Sychar. 
 
 At the widest part of the opening of this valley, there is a 
 low pile of rude masonry, surrounded by a large number 
 of loose stones of considerable size, and remains of walls and 
 their foundations. It is an object which many a traveller 
 might overlook, were he not prepared for it by previous 
 announcement. An ancient a very ancient well is concealed 
 by these remains, the descent to which is made through a narrow 
 mouth in the stonework above, usually covered with a massive 
 fragment of stone. The stone was too heavy for us to remove 
 without more aid than we could command. I should gladly 
 have drunk of this water but, in addition to the fact of its 
 mouth being closed I learnt that the " well is deep," and I 
 had " nothing to draw with." 
 
 The most august traveller whose feet ever pressed the soil 
 of the Holy Land, once rested on the brink of this noted 
 well. That traveller was Jesus of Nazareth. The well is 
 Jacob's well. St. John tells us that Jesus, on a certain 
 occasion, " left Judea, and departed again into Galilee ;" and 
 that " he must needs go through Samaria." This well is in 
 the high road the road over which the generations of past 
 ages have been wont to travel from Judea to Galilee. The 
 Evangelist continues " Then cometh he to a city of Samaria, 
 which is called Sychar, near to the parcel of ground that 
 Jacob gave to his son Joseph. Now Jacob's well was there. 
 Jesus, therefore, being wearied with his journey, sat thus on 
 the well ; and it was about the sixth hour. There cometh a 
 woman of Samaria to draw water : Jesus saith unto her, Give 
 me to drink. (For his disciples were gone away unto the 
 city to buy meat.) Then saith the woman of Samaria unto 
 
 Y2
 
 340 JACOB'S WELL. 
 
 him, How is it that thou, being a Jew, askcst drink of me, 
 which am a woman of Samaria ? for the Jews have no dealings 
 with the Samaritans. Jesus answered and said unto her, If 
 thou kncwest the gift of God, and who it is that saith to thee, 
 Give me to drink, thou wouldcst have asked of him, and he 
 would have given thee living water. The woman saith unto 
 him, Sir, thou hast nothing to draw with, and the well is 
 deep ; from whence then hast thou that living water ? Art 
 thou greater than our father Jacob, which gave us the well, 
 and drank thereof himself, and his children, and his cattle? 
 Jesus answered and said unto her, Whosoever drinketh 
 of this water shall thirst again ; but whosoever drinketh of the 
 water that I shall give him shall never thirst ; but the water 
 that I shall give him shall be in him a well of water springing 
 up into everlasting life." 
 
 It was indeed a charming event in one's life, to stand on 
 the brink of that well to hear, as it were, the voice of the 
 sublime preacher, and to have the precious truth which he 
 taught giving spiritual life to the believing soul. 
 
 But is this the only well near Sychar, in the way through 
 Samaria to Galilee ? Are there not others which may equally 
 claim to be the well of Jacob ? These questions may naturally 
 enough suggest themselves, when after the lapse of so many 
 centuries, we endeavour to make out a satisfactory identity. 
 Certainly, there are other wells but not in the direct road. 
 There is one, and a considerable one, too, lying a mile or so 
 in a more north-easterly direction ; but the well in question 
 seems to be the only one that really answers the description 
 given by St. John, who speaks of it as being "deep." Mr. 
 Calhoun a recent European traveller, ascertained its depth 
 at seventy-five feet, with about twelve feet of water ; while 
 the other wells are so shallow, that the water may be 
 easily reached with the hand. I stooped down, and drank 
 with perfect ease, at that which I have just mentioned. 
 Besides all this the identity of the well of Jacob is not 
 sought for through any popish tradition, but through a
 
 JACOB'S WELL JOSEPH'S TOMB. 341 
 
 Mahommedan one, which appears never to have been disputed; 
 and it seems time out of mind, to have been "called by the 
 Arabs Bir Yacoob (the well of Jacob), and it is by that 
 name they now universally designate it. On account of its 
 great depth and the consequent coolness of the water at all 
 seasons, it has no doubt been highly esteemed from the 
 beginning ; and this may be alleged as a reason why the 
 woman of Samaria should come so far from Sychar to draw 
 water, when other wells were near at hand, and while the vale 
 of Sychar abounded with rich streams. 
 
 The divine doctrine propounded by the voice of an incarnate 
 God at the brink of that well, has never passed aAvay. It is 
 recorded by the finger of the Spirit ; and many a thirsty soul 
 has tasted its life-giving reality. The weary traveller is gone. 
 The woman of Samaria no longer lingers on the spot ; but the 
 generations of eighteen centuries have heard the heavenly 
 teaching, and it is now as much as ever the precious truth 
 of the imperishable gospel " Whosoever drinkcth of the water 
 that I shall give him, shall never thirst / but the icater that 
 I shall give him, shall be in him a well of water springing up 
 into everlasting life." Oh may our hearts respond 
 
 " Sir, give me this water, that I thirst not." 1 
 
 At a distance of not more than a quarter of a mile northward 
 of Jacob's well, stands a " whited sepulchre." It consists 
 of four walls, open at the top, and has a wide doorway opening 
 towards the north. It is a place of frequent resort with the 
 Jews ; and many are the Hebrew inscriptions in the interior. 
 On the left is a kind of covered sarcophagus, over which a 
 wild vine clusters luxuriantly. Towards the right is a raised 
 piece of rude masonry, like the common coverings of Arab 
 graves, evidently marking the final resting-place of some one. 
 The whole structure is of great age. Undisputed tradition 
 claims it as the tomb of Joseph. That the remains of this 
 servant of God lie somewhere thereabouts, there is no doubt : 
 for we read that " the bones of Joseph, which the children 
 
 1 John iv. 15.
 
 342 MOUNTS EBAL AND GERIZIM. 
 
 of Israel brought up out of Egypt, buried they in Shechem, in 
 a parcel of ground which Jacob bought of the sons of Hamor, 
 the father of Shechem, for an hundred pieces of silver ; and 
 it became the inheritance of the children of Joseph." 1 I am 
 very much inclined to believe the tradition which points to 
 this ancient sepulchre. If it be well founded, how venerable 
 docs the spot become to those who love to dwell upon the 
 sacred narrative of God's wonderful dealings towards the once 
 enslaved descendants of the " faithful Abraham." 
 
 The road towards Nablous is a valley of considerable 
 breadth lying, as I have said, between Mount Ebal and 
 Mount Gerizim, and running nearly due east and west. The 
 former of these mountains, which was the mount of cursing, 
 rises on the north side of the valley, and is nearly barren 
 above, but skirted below in some parts by olive groves. Its 
 height is estimated at from about eight hundred to a thousand 
 feet above the plain. The latter, which was the mount 
 of blessing, rises on the south of the valley. It shews a few 
 traces of cultivation, and is of equal height with mount Ebal. 
 Both these noted mountains are exceedingly bold and striking, 
 when viewed only as parts of a fine landscape. Nablous is 
 situate due west between them ; and is approached through a 
 fine grove of olives of great age and magnitude, with here and 
 there springs of water, round which, shepherds and their 
 flocks were gathered as we passed. The whole of the valley 
 is very beautiful and quiet ; while the massive sides of Ebal 
 and Gerizim give to it an air of charming seclusion. On 
 the heights of Mount Gerizim once stood, as is generally 
 believed, a Samaritan temple, to the religious exercises 
 connected with which the woman of Samaria most probably 
 referred, when, at the well of Jacob, she said to her illustrious 
 teacher " Our fathers worshipped in this mountain." An 
 annual procession is made to this spot by the small residue 
 of the Samaritan people, who still occupy their ancient city. The 
 summit of Gerizim is now occupied by a structure of modern 
 character. It is the tomb of an Arab saint. 
 
 1 Joshua xxiv. 32.
 
 MOUNTS EBAL AND GERIZIM. 343 
 
 But what gives an abiding and peculiar interest to Mounts 
 Ebal and Gerizim is, after all, the fact, that on their sides 
 were gathered the tribes of Israel, to hear and respond to 
 the blessings and curses of Jehovah ; while the Ark of the 
 Covenant, surrounded by its attendant Priests and Levites, was 
 placed in the lovely valley between. How awfully solemn 
 must have been the assemblage and the occasion. Israel was 
 then victorious in the land of promise ; and there it was that 
 their whole destiny was open before them, as it was to 
 result from either their obedience or the contrary. Alas 
 with what a melancholy interest does the subsequent history 
 of God's ancient people invest the transactions of that day. 
 On Gerizim, stood the tribes of Simeon, Levi, Judah, Issachar, 
 Joseph, and Benjamin, "to bless the people." On Ebal, 
 stood those of Reuben, Gad, Asher, Zebulun, Dan, and 
 Naphtali, "for a cursing." Soon the expectant silence of the 
 vast concourse was broken by the loud voice of the Levites, 
 sounding upwards from the valley, uttering in the name 
 of the God of Israel, the curses attendant on a disobedience 
 to the divine will which had been revealed from heaven as a 
 law, and written plainly on large stones, set up on Mount 
 Ebal; and at every pause, the tribes on Mount Ebal gave 
 forth their solemn "Amen." While in like manner the 
 blessings of obedience were heard and responded to by the 
 tribes stationed on Gerizim. The curse has been terribly 
 fulfilled upon apostate Israel; and of this, every Jew 
 of every subsequent age of their history has been a living 
 memorial not to be denied or overlooked. Perhaps there 
 are not two more awfully interesting chapters in the Bible, 
 than those which record these transactions on Mounts Ebal 
 and Gerizim, and in the vale of Sychar. 1 
 
 Sychar is nearly concealed by the thick olive groves 
 of the valley, till you are within a few hundred yards of its 
 walls, when it breaks upon the view a charming object, 
 with its graceful minarets embosomed in the richest foliage 
 
 1 Dcut. xxvii. xxviii. &c, ; and sec also Joshua viii. 30 35.
 
 344 SYCHAR (NABLOUS). 
 
 which this abundantly watered valley so richly cherishes. 
 Almonds, pomegranates, vines, figs, mulberries, apples, and 
 orange trees grow with the greatest luxuriance ; while the 
 cultivation of melons, cucumbers, and such like garden 
 produce affords an abundant supply for general consumption, 
 which is carried as far as Jerusalem. The melons of Sychar 
 are much esteemed. The garden hedges are for the most 
 part formed of the prickly-pear (which is of the cactus 
 family), and in many parts are interlaced with the spreading 
 branches of luxuriant vines. 
 
 Sychar should be always viewed from without. The 
 charm is lost when once you set foot within its poor and 
 miserable streets and offensive bazaars. We rode through it, 
 but made no stay; only taking a leisurely survey as we 
 passed, of the pursuits and occupations of the people. Some 
 were seated in groups, amidst piles of melons, cucumbers, 
 and other fruits ; some were engaged in cutting and preparing 
 for sale large supplies of tobacco ; others were carrying to and 
 from the fountains, water-bottles made of the untanned skins 
 of sheep and goats, w T hile veiled women were shuffling about 
 in their yellow morocco boots, thrust into loose slippers, which 
 gave them an awkward gait. In many of the houses and 
 bazaars, we noticed an extensive manufacture of cotton in 
 various stages ; some were carding others were spinning, 
 and not a few weaving. There was a general appearance 
 of liveliness and activity amidst the population, though in most 
 streets were to be found large parties of those lovers of ease, 
 whose day is spent reclining in the shade, and inhaling the 
 fumes of Latakia. Sychar (or Shechem) was one of the 
 ancient cities of refuge ; and far more interesting on account 
 of its scriptural associations than by reason of anything in its 
 present character and appearance. 
 
 It is worthy of remark, that while our blessed Redeemer 
 was honourably received in this city of the Samaritans, he 
 and his divine teaching and mighty working were despised at 
 Capernaum and the once distinguished cities about the Sea
 
 SYCHAR (NABLOUS) BIR SHARATII. 345 
 
 of Galilee ; and that while the latter are now in ruins nay, 
 their sites almost untraceable the former is still a prosperous 
 town, so far as prosperity can be said to exist in this sadly 
 changed country. One of its striking features is the 
 abundance of fountains both within and around it, imparting 
 coolness, freshness, and luxuriance to every part. 
 
 We quitted the city by a gate opening towards the north- 
 west, which brought us into the midst of most delicious 
 groves and gardens, and then again into the main valley, 
 with the continuation of Ebal and Gerizim still on either side, 
 and with a rapid narrow stream coursing its way with a sweet 
 and refreshing ripple. For several miles the valley is still 
 richly cultivated ; and abounds with fine spreading fig, olive, 
 and pomegranate trees, and climbing vines, embracing with 
 their graceful tendrils the bold trunks of noble and spreading 
 trees. 
 
 Quitting the vale of Sychar, we journeyed towards Samaria. 
 The way is often steep and rugged. It is doubtless, the 
 ancient path, over which buried generations have been wont 
 to travel. It is worn deep in the face of the rock. After 
 proceeding in a north-westerly direction for nearly two hours, 
 we reached a delicious fountain called Bir Sharath, surrounded 
 and overhung by luxuriant and wide-spreading fig trees, the 
 fruit of which was still unripe. They were of the purple 
 kind, which comes latest. We had eaten the earlier the 
 "first ripe figs" abundantly in Jerusalem; but found none 
 of them hereabouts. Hound the fountain was gathered a 
 party of Syrian shepherds, with large flocks of sheep and 
 long flap-eared goats. A few other peasants were engaged 
 in conducting the streams of the fountain for the purpose 
 of irrigation. We pitched our tents in this delightful shade, 
 and were lulled to sleep by the sweet voice of the running 
 waters. At half-past four we were on the inarch again ; and, 
 in little more than an hour, arrived at Sebaste the ancient 
 Samaria the royal city of the kings of Israel.
 
 346 SAMARIA SEBASTE. 
 
 Samaria was visible for full half an hour before we reached 
 it ; and perhaps there is not a more lovely scene in Palestine 
 than that which presents itself when its commanding position 
 first meets the eye. I cannot well imagine a more noble site 
 for a royal city. Israel was indeed magnificently enthroned 
 there. It is a bold and stately mountain, belted about with 
 guardian hills, as if to afford a natural fortification to the royal 
 habitation. The mountain itself is of an oval form, and richly 
 clothed, almost to its summit, with stately olive groves. We 
 quitted the heights from which we first gazed upon Samaria, 
 by a winding path, through thick plantations which led us to 
 green and fertile plains, extending around the spreading base 
 of the mountain. Surely these must have been among "the 
 fat valleys of them that are overcome with wine." 1 
 
 The prophecy concerning Samaria is most distinct, and its 
 fulfilment has been exact. I wish an infidel could have stood 
 with me and compared the present state of Samaria even 
 in minute particulars, with the prophecy of Micah which 
 I read on the spot. 2 " The word of the Lord that came to 
 Micah the Morasthite in the days of Jothan, Ahaz, and 
 Hezekiah, kings of Judah, which he saw concerning Samaria 
 and Jerusalem. Hear, all the people ; hearken, O earth, and 
 all that therein is ; and let the Lord God be witness against 
 you, the Lord from His holy temple. For behold, the Lord 
 cometh forth out of His place, and will come down and tread 
 upon the high places of the earth. And the mountains shall 
 be molten under Him, and the valleys shall be cleft, as wax 
 before the fire, and as the waters that are poured down a 
 steep place. For the transgression of Jacob is all this, and 
 for the sins of the house of Israel. What is the transgression 
 of Jacob ? Is it not Samaria ? And what are the high places 
 of Judah? Are they not Jerusalem ? Therefore I will make 
 Samaria as an heap of the field, and as plantings of a 
 vineyard : and I will pour down the stones thereof into the 
 tatte]/, and I will discover the foundations thereof" Though 
 
 1 Isaiah xxviii. 1. z Micali i. 1 G.
 
 SAMARIA SEBASTE. 347 
 
 Israel's monarchs there swayed the sceptre though there 
 Herod reigned and revelled -though pomp and splendour 
 and the glory of this world there shone and dazzled the 
 thousands of Israel yet, Samaria is a desolation. The 
 sceptres are broken the revel is hushed the splendour has 
 faded Samaria is as an heap of the field, and as the plantings 
 of a vineyard ; her stones have been literally poured down into 
 the valley her foundations have been indeed discovered 
 and there they now lie; while from every heap and from 
 every fragment there goes forth as it were a testimony, 
 which cannot be silenced, to the righteous severity of an 
 angry God. 
 
 We ascended the heights for the purpose of exploring the 
 remains ; and in our way met many of the Samaritan women 
 coming down with their water jars, gracefully borne upon 
 their heads, to a fountain which flows below. They are 
 coarse and masculine, and contrast strongly with the men, 
 who both in countenance and figure are extremely handsome. 
 Their complexion is florid and clear, and slightly bronzed 
 by their native sun. 
 
 The ascent is by a steep narrow pass which leads up to a 
 small village poor and insignificant ; and to the left, on the 
 eastern brow of the hill, are the bold and prominent ruins 
 of a Greek church, said to have been built over the bones 
 of John the Baptist the victim of the heartless Herod and 
 Herodias his adulterous paramour. A small enclosed part 
 of the church is now used as a mosque ; the door of which was 
 closed against us as soon as we arrived. On either side 
 of the ascent, immense masses of stone are piled and huddled 
 together, and have the appearance of ancient foundations. 
 On the summit there is a considerable extent of table-land 
 thickly planted with fig and olive trees, among which are to 
 be found a great many shafts of Corinthian columns deprived 
 of their capitals some of them erect, and others thrown 
 down and partly buried in the soil. No one can survey 
 these ruins without being sensible of the splendour with
 
 348 SAMARIA. 
 
 which this remarkable spot was once graced; all which is 
 increased by glancing down into the valleys particularly on 
 the north-east, south and west, where the remains of bold 
 and stately colonnades are still visible, amidst the heaps 
 of piled up stones. Such are the remnants of Samaria "the 
 crown of pride." Was it here that Ahab built his house in 
 honour of Baal? And here that Jezebel bore her cruel 
 sway ? And here, too, that those men of God Elijah and 
 Elisha, wrought wonders in the strength of the Lord of Hosts ? 
 Even so. And what do we now find instead ? A few Syrian 
 Boors a poor rude cultivation spiritual dearth; the light 
 of Christianity not merely dismissed, but extinguished; a 
 monument a memorial the traces of Jehovah's presence in 
 wrath and retribution. 
 
 The surrounding scenery, as beheld from the heights, 
 is very charming ; and it was beautifully garnished by the 
 declining sun, as we gazed upon the grassy and olive-clothed 
 valleys and "mountains of Samaria." We did not fail to 
 notice the terraced sides of the hills, on which the vine and 
 the olive once grew in cultivated profusion (compared with 
 which the present is but barrenness), when the Ephraimites 
 thence traded with Egypt, in oil 1 the rich produce of the 
 olive tree. Shall the poor and scanty cultivation which now 
 marks the desolation of the land, continue? Is there no 
 promise on which to ground a hope of better things ? Oh 
 yes: Israel the beloved the redeemed of the Lord shall 
 return. He who foretold the desolation, and who brought it, 
 hath given promise hath said to banished Israel, "I have 
 loved thee with an everlasting love ; therefore with loving- 
 kindness have I drawn thee. Again I will build thee, and 
 thou shalt be built. O virgin of Israel : thou shalt again be 
 adorned with thy tabrets, and shalt go forth in the dances 
 of them that make merry. Thou shalt yet plant vines upon 
 the mountains of Samaria : the planters shall plant ^ and cat 
 them as common things" 2 
 
 1 Hosea xii. 1. 2 Jeremiah xxxi. 5.
 
 ROAD TO NAZARETH. 349 
 
 We quitted the ruins of Samaria by a steep and difficult 
 path, among olive and tobacco gardens, in a northerly 
 direction ; and on reaching the plain, were soon at the foot 
 of a bold range of hills enclosing the valley of Samaria, over 
 which we were to pass in our way to Nazareth. After pausing 
 for a brief space, we commenced the ascent, having sent on 
 the baggage mules while we stayed at Samaria ; and, as we 
 hoped, with exact directions as to the place where they were 
 to await our arrival for the evening halting time. From the 
 highest point of the mountains, and while traversing a winding 
 path looking westward, a noble landscape opened before us. 
 Immediately below, there stretched out a rich undulating 
 plain, enlivened by villages and olive plantations, through 
 which ran a beautiful glassy river, probably the brook Kanah. 1 
 Westward, was to be seen the line of the Mediterranean with 
 part of the plain of Sharon. On the north-east were the distant 
 mountains of Galilee. Oh ! it was a stirring scene. Every 
 hair-breadth of the far-stretching territory was connected 
 with the history and the hopes of God's ancient people, and 
 interwoven, in all our associations, with the name and mission 
 of Jesus of Nazareth. Had he not often gazed on this very 
 scene, illumined and enriched by the beams of the same sun 
 which now shed its evening lustre on every object? 
 
 By a descending path, north-eastward, we reached two 
 villages, the principal of which our guides called Birkah; 
 but I rather suppose it was Gdbath perhaps the ancient 
 Gibbcthon, where Baasha slew Nadab the son of Jeroboam. 2 
 The approach to it lies through a thickly wooded plain ; and 
 as we entered, flocks innumerable of sheep, goats, and neat 
 cattle, were crowding round the wells, from which the 
 shepherds were busily drawing up water and pouring it from 
 their leathern buckets into ancient stone troughs. We 
 received many kindly salutations as we passed, and many a 
 " Marahabbali" (you are welcome); the ordinary expression 
 of courtesy with which the traveller is greeted. 
 
 1 Joshua xvi. 8 ; xvii. 9. 2 1 Kings xv. 27 ; xvi. 15.
 
 350 EMBARRASSMENT. 
 
 A little beyond this village, we reached the place where it 
 was understood that the baggage mules should await us, and 
 where we hoped to find the tents pitched and all things ready. 
 But, alas for the weary travellers they had not arrived; and 
 we could not but fear there had been some misapprehension. 
 Every thing we possessed, besides the clothes on our backs, 
 was under the care of our vagrant Muleteers. The sun had 
 set; the evening shades had already gathered around us; and 
 our only prospect was that of passing the night on the bare 
 earth, without tents and without food, after our fatiguing 
 expedition. We shouted with all our might ; and Hassenein 
 exerted his lungs till the valleys rang again. But there was 
 no reply. We paused and listened, but all in vain. We 
 had just resolved on turning off towards a spot distant about 
 an hour, where Hassenein thought it possible the Muleteers 
 might have gone. Had we fulfilled the intention, we should 
 have lost them indeed. Just as we were about to move, I 
 thought I heard a distant sound of the shrill bells attached to 
 the mules' necks. Our hope was all alive. Hassenein shouted 
 again sputtered a little vehement Arabic, and fired a pistol, 
 the echo of which reverberated and died away on the 
 evening breeze. Again there was silence, and we listened 
 breathlessly. A respondent shout was heard on a height far 
 above us, followed by a shot. The sound of the bells was 
 now distinctly audible. The voices of our Muleteers neared 
 upon us. We fired another shot to shew them exactly our 
 position, and soon we were pitching our tents in a retired spot 
 overhung with the full foliage of luxuriant fig trees, and near 
 an abundant fountain. Close at hand was a village called 
 Fendi-omir. As we sat at the tent door, fire-flies were 
 playing their sparkling gambols, and thousands of crickets 
 singing their night-song. 
 
 At an early hour the next morning, we were again in 
 motion, in hope of reaching Jenin by the usual time of noon- 
 tide rest. Our path lay for some time along a rich valley, 
 which at length spread out into a magnificent plain of fine 
 arable soil, but for the most part overgrown with tall thistles
 
 JENIN PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 351 
 
 of a rich deep purple colour. It was surrounded by hills 
 of various magnitudes, and of graceful forms. Four hours 
 brought us within sight of Jenin, where a shady olive grove 
 invited us to halt for the midday rest. Jenin may be looked 
 upon as the frontier town between Samaria and Galilee. It 
 stands on the western declivity of a hill, surrounded by 
 hedges of the prickly pear, and is beautifully picturesque 
 without; but within, it is poor and squalid, though traces are 
 yet to be found of its former importance. Some travellers 
 have supposed it to be the ancient Gincea, referred to by 
 Josephus; and the supposition is not without foundation. In 
 the midst of it is a magnificent fountain of delicious water, 
 which forms an extensive pool, and was surrounded by a 
 large and motley band of travellers refreshing themselves and 
 their beasts of burthen. On reaching Jenin, we entered 
 upon the territory of the half tribe of Manasseh ; and, winding 
 our way through the poor miserable streets, were ushered into 
 the noble and indescribably beautiful plain of Esdraelon the 
 ancient valley of Jezrcel the plain of Megiddo. It is a vast 
 and almost unbroken surface. On the east, it stretches off 
 towards the Jordan ; on the west, it nearly reaches the coast 
 of the Mediterranean, and is there bounded by a range 
 of small hills which separates it from the plains of Acre. The 
 mountains of Nazareth bound it on the north, and those 
 of Samaria on the south. Noble and distinguished mountains 
 look down upon it from their ancient thrones Carmel, 
 Hermon, and Gilboa; while towards the north-east stands 
 Mount Tabor the monarch of the scene, on which the eye 
 fixes itself with delight and wonder. Maundrell estimates 
 the extent of the plain at about thirty miles from east to west, 
 and twenty from north to south. A river rises at the foot 
 of Mount Tabor it is the KisJwn that ancient river, which 
 intersects the plain, and courses off westward to the sea. The 
 stream in itself is inconsiderable, but is sometimes swelled by 
 tributary waters the efflux of mountain torrents, and the 
 produce of heavy rains. The ancient fertility of this noble 
 plain must have been amazing; and it still, no doubt, 
 possesses its former capabilities. But a poor and partial
 
 352 THE PLAIN OF ESDRAELON. 
 
 cultivation not far removed from sterility, is all that meets 
 the eye of the traveller, who seeks in vain for the waving 
 crop and the rejoicing husbandman. Is there not a cause ? 
 Alas the breath of divine indignation has gone forth over its 
 surface ; and not till the thousands of rescued Israel rejoice 
 in their restored inheritance, shall its wonted luxuriance 
 return. 
 
 No one, in the least degree acquainted with the fate and 
 fortunes of empires, could gaze unmoved upon the plain 
 of Esdraelon. How many destinies have been sealed with 
 the blood of thousands upon its surface ; how many hopes 
 crushed ; how many an ambitious dream realized ! It is well 
 designated " the battle field of nations" for such it has been 
 from the day when Sisera there marshalled his bannered host ; 
 and from the time when the good Josiah fell, 1 and there 
 went forth "the mourning of Hadadrimmon in the valley 
 of Megiddon." 2 It was on this plain that the twofold subjugation 
 of Judea was accomplished. And in more modern times, 
 there is scarcely a warlike nation on the face of the earth, 
 whose banners have not waved under the shadows of Tabor 
 and of Hermon. There is another conflict yet to come a 
 conflict that shall be deadly, final, glorious between the hosts 
 of darkness and the children of light between Antichrist 
 and the Lamb ! and docs not the word of prophecy arrest 
 the thoughtful traveller, and bid him look forth upon the 
 plain of Megiddo ? 3 
 
 On quitting Jenin, we sent on the baggage mules by the 
 ordinary route towards Nazareth, while we ourselves took a 
 more circuitous one, by way of Zerin (Jezreel), for the 
 purpose of visiting the remains of that city, and also Solam 
 fS/iuncmJ, Nairn and Endor. By some unaccountable 
 mistake, we missed the proper path, and were able to visit 
 only Zerin before the evening closed. We were then too 
 far from Nazareth to reach it at any reasonable hour 
 
 1 2 Chron. xxxv. 22-25 * Zech. xii. 11. Rev. xvi. 14 16.
 
 EMBARRASSMENT NAZARETH. 353 
 
 of the night. We had moreover missed our mules; and 
 when the darkness closed upon us, we had no hope but 
 of passing the night under the open canopy of heaven. I had 
 for several hours been suffering severe pain, and was scarcely 
 able to proceed yet the possibility of finding the mules was 
 worth an effort. We pushed on till we reached a considerable 
 village on a steep elevation, where we made inquiries about the 
 various roads to Nazareth ; and while perplexed with conflicting 
 intelligence, the far distant sound of the mules' bells greeted 
 us. Some of the Arabs insisted that they were camel-bells, 
 and urged us to stay in the village, offering to supply us 
 with milk and other slight refreshments. But, we had 
 no tents; and the prospect of spending the night amidst 
 the animalcules of an Arab hut was any thing but inviting. 
 We no longer heard the sound of bells ; but the distant 
 barking of dogs encouraged a hope that the Muleteers 
 had arrived at some village within reach. We discharged 
 fire-arms and shouted; but there was no reply. After a 
 brief consultation we remounted and struck across the plain in 
 the direction from which the dogs' voices seemed to come. 
 Providentially, we soon found a horse-path ; and after half an 
 hour's riding saw light in the distance. We gave another 
 shout, and it brought a reply. It was our party. They were 
 just pitching the tents on the outside of a poor village, amidst 
 extensive threshing floors. It was no small relief to find 
 ourselves once more housed within our linen walls. 
 
 Early on the following morning we continued our way 
 across the plain, with Mount Tabor towering on the right ; 
 and in about two hours reached the commencement of the 
 ascent towards the mountains which encircle Nazareth. On 
 our left, was Hasloh (Chisloth Tabor) ; on the right, the 
 mount of precipitation. By an extremely fatiguing pass, 
 which occupied about another hour, we reached the bare and 
 rocky heights, from which we gazed on the spot where the 
 early manhood of Jesus was passed, in subjection to an earthly 
 parentage. It was NA.ZARETH. It is quite surrounded by a
 
 354 NAZARETH. 
 
 rocky girdle ; and occupies the lowest slope of the west side 
 of a hill. There is an appearance of chalky whiteness and 
 sterility all around. The few figs and olives which are to be 
 seen, are poor and stunted. Compared, however, with many 
 other Syrian towns, Nazareth is still attractive, independently 
 of the scriptural associations connected with it. It lay 
 bathed in the morning light as we approached ; and at a 
 distance, wore the aspect of extreme repose. How busy was 
 the imagination, as the eye glanced eagerly from side to side. 
 Descending the heights, and making our way along a winding 
 valley, we soon reached the city, exchanging salutations with 
 some Syrian Christians on horseback, who paused and bid us 
 welcome. 
 
 "Can any good thing come out of Nazareth?" was a 
 proverbial phrase of ancient origin. The extreme seclusion 
 of its site once made Nazareth the resort of the bad and 
 doubtful characters of Galilee. I fancy it is not much better 
 now, if any judgment is to be formed from the physiognomy 
 of the idle and wretched looking population. 
 
 "We rode direct to the Latin Convent, and were civilly 
 received, in a dirty cell set apart for pilgrims. Two rude 
 beds were allotted to us, and a suitable place to stow away 
 our baggage. I was unwell, and ill at ease. Nazareth 
 seemed to be of all places the most outrageously clamorous. 
 Every hour of the day and night was broken by incessant 
 yelling; scores of children were all crying and screaming at 
 once, and at the top of their voices ; donkeys were braying, 
 cocks crowing, and camels grunting. I could have wept for the 
 nervous feeling which all this helped to increase. I kept in 
 my cell during the greater part of the day ; and only emerged 
 for the sake of visiting the more prominent objects of monkish 
 interest such as the alleged scene of the annunciation, the 
 workshop of Joseph, &c. for which I had no great appetency, 
 for reasons already stated in reference to those of Bethlehem 
 and Jerusalem.
 
 NAZARETH. 355 
 
 The greater part of the population of Nazareth is professedly 
 Christian ; but it is the deformed and lifeless Christianity 
 of the Roman and Greek churches. I was present at vespers 
 in the church of the Latin Convent, but only a few- 
 stragglers attended as worshippers ; and though it was the 
 Lord's day yet, the presence of the Lord seemed not to be 
 regarded in Nazareth. It was so in the days of his sojourn 
 upon earth. He did not many miracles there ; his countrymen 
 had no faith in him they were offended at the meanness 
 of his origin "Is not this the carpenter's son?" 
 
 But notwithstanding all that was wearisome in my short 
 stay at Nazareth, one delightful train of thought kept 
 possession of my mind that there the human nature of our 
 adorable Redeemer expanded to its full maturity; and that 
 there in humble obscurity he trained his soul for those 
 achievements which have shed light and lustre and hope upon 
 a blighted world. How delightful was it to gaze upon every 
 rocky height, and upon every silent valley around, and to be 
 assured that there He walked and meditated and prayed, and 
 yearned over the degraded posterity of the fallen Adam. 
 
 After a restless night we rose early, and by seven o'clock 
 were mounted for the purpose of making an excursion to 
 Tiberias and the lake of Gennesareth, intending to return to 
 Nazareth by way of Cana of Galilee. Some little fuss was 
 made about danger to be apprehended from marauding parties 
 of Bedaween who infest the surrounding country, and we 
 were therefore strongly urged to take an additional escort 
 from Nazareth. This addition resolved itself into a single 
 Arab, armed with his long spear, but incapable of affording 
 much protection in the face of actual danger. He was, 
 however, a Nazarene and perhaps well acquainted with such 
 enemies as we might have to encounter. He was a disagreeable 
 lazy fellow, and made no way towards securing our good 
 opinion ; but we had no means of choosing for ourselves. 
 
 1 Matt. xiii. 54-58.
 
 356 ANCIENT WELL OF NAZARETH MOUNT TABOR. 
 
 On quitting Nazareth, we found on its outskirts a very 
 ancient well, round which, as is the custom of the east, a 
 number of persons were gathered. The well is the place 
 of general resort. Some of the women, in their picturesque 
 attire, were filling their earthen vessels others returning 
 with their pitchers borne upon their heads. This in all 
 probability was the ancient well of Nazareth, where Mary 
 and the "holy child Jesus" no doubt often lingered, and 
 from which he drank many a refreshing draught. 
 
 We made our way direct towards Mount Tabor, which 
 we purposed ascending from the small village of Dabourieh, 
 which lies west of the mount, and close to its base. This 
 village is about two hours distant from Nazareth, by an 
 extremely beautiful path, shut in by thickly studded oak-forests. 
 Another hour brought us to the summit of Tabor. On reaching 
 Dabourieh, we paused at the village well, for the purpose 
 of refreshing our horses, and were treated with a volley of the 
 most violent abuse by a hag of an old woman, who seemed 
 quite disposed to raise the village against us. Money was 
 offered for the use of the well, but indignantly refused so 
 we passed on and made the best of it, while Hassenein gave 
 vent to his anger in a torrent of Arabic vehemence. I began 
 to expect we should be pelted with stones but were allowed 
 to pass without further molestation. The ascent of Mount 
 Tabor by the accustomed way, is not by any means difficult, 
 though almost impracticable by others. The whole of it is 
 deliciously shaded by a thick overgrowth of the ilex and 
 such like forest trees. Many wild gazelles delicate, graceful 
 creatures were seen grazing on the surrounding hills. 
 
 On the summit of Tabor are extensive ruins ; and to the 
 south-east they assume the form of fortifications, overlooking 
 a wide plain of an oval form, covered with herbage 
 and forest trees. Perhaps one of the noblest panoramic 
 views in the world, is that obtained from the highest 
 point of the ruins. North-west, in the distance, is the ridge 
 of Carinel: south, are the lovely mountains of Samaria
 
 MOUNT TABOR. 357 
 
 running east and west, and bounding the plain of Esdraelon, 
 where the chariot of Ahab once rolled, as the monarch fled 
 before the coming danger. Immediately in front of these are 
 the hills of Gilboa; and nearer, is little Hermon, over- 
 shadowing the cities of Endor and Nain. On the east, 
 stretches out the scene of the Redeemer's early ministry 
 while, embosomed in its undulations, the blue waters of the 
 Sea of Galilee reflect the sunbeam. South of the lake is the 
 plain of Jericho ; and beyond, rise up the distant peaks 
 of Anti-Libanus ; while onwards to the north, the vast mass 
 of Lebanon sets up its noble, snow-capped barriers. 
 
 As a military position, perhaps Tabor has been one of the 
 most available, from the time that Barak went down from 
 thence with ten thousand men after him, to contend against 
 Sisera with his iron chariots and bannered hosts, all marshalled 
 in the plain below. From its heights, Josephus for a long 
 time defied the force of Roman arms in the last struggles 
 of declining Israel. The ruins yet visible, tell a sad tale 
 of violence, of conflict, and decay. But there is one thing 
 which gives peculiar interest to this memorable mountain, and 
 that is, the long-maintained tradition of its having been the 
 scene of our Redeemer's transfiguration. I enter not into any 
 discussion on this point. It is difficult (is it not needless ?) to 
 question a tradition so ancient and so steadily maintained. I 
 confess, I gave my mind up to it, and felt surely it is "good 
 to be here." 
 
 Near the summit of the mount, hid in a cavern approached 
 by a few rude steps, is a most delicious well of liquid crystal. 
 Fatigued and weary, we descended and found the water to be 
 of icy coldness. The burning sun could not reach it. A black 
 Nubian slave, belonging to the Muleteers who accompanied 
 us, sat on his heels in mute surprise at our ecstacy on meeting 
 with such delicious refreshment in such a place. 
 
 Having made our descent, we proceeded along a mountain 
 path surrounded by fine forest scenery, much like an English
 
 358 APPROACH TO THE SEA OF GALILEE. 
 
 park ; and at length found the Muleteers awaiting us in the 
 high road towards Tiberias, under a magnificently spreading 
 nabbukh tree, beyond a considerable Bedawcen encampment 
 through which we had passed unmolested. Here we made 
 our noontide rest. I gathered fresh water-cresses from a 
 little rill hard by, and added them to the provisions for our 
 slender meal. At about three o'clock we resumed the march, 
 bearing off in an easterly direction ; and, after passing over 
 many miles of bare and uncultivated plain, with here and 
 there a bit of rocky elevation, we reached in about four hours 
 the brow of a steep acclivity from which Tiberias, and 
 beyond it the Sea of Galilee and the hills of Bashan broke 
 magnificently upon the view. And here, then, began the 
 wondrous ministry of that mighty Prophet whom God had 
 also " exaltec^ with his right hand to be a Prince and a Saviour, 
 for to give repentance to Israel, and forgiveness of sins." 
 Here was first heard the sounding forth of that gospel, which 
 now vibrates through the inhabited world the voice of the 
 living God, speaking in mercy and love to apostate man, from 
 the lips of One iu whom dwelt " all the fulness of the Godhead, 
 bodily." 
 
 As a picture, it was surpassingly beautiful. The setting sun 
 cast his beams upon it, shedding also a richly empurpled hue 
 on every object. I paused, in order to get it fully imprinted 
 on my memory; and there it is now deposited one of the 
 loveliest pictures in the world. 
 
 A steep descent soon brought us to the gates of Tiberias a 
 scene of ruin and desolation, though once the abode of the 
 luxurious Herod. The traces of the last earthquake were 
 awfully visible in the shattered walls and ruined habitations. 
 In many open parts of the town, tents were pitched among 
 ruins the only dwellings left for the poor inhabitants. Some 
 of the injured houses had been partially restored, and others 
 rebuilt: and on the flat roofs were constructed small 
 sheds made of sedges and the branches of trees, under 
 the shade of which the inhabitants of Tiberias usually pass the
 
 TIBERIAS. 359 
 
 night for the sake of a cooler atmosphere. The temperature 
 is usually very high. As we passed through the desolated 
 streets, we saw a large party of Jews, of various nations, 
 seated in the dust round the ruins of one of their synagogues, 
 which they were making efforts to restore. Filth, poverty, and 
 squalid wretchedness, characterize the ancient city of Tiberias ; 
 and an air of hopeless desolation pervades it. 
 
 We were lodged with a German Jew a stirring and 
 intelligent looking man. His house was a locanda or hotel 
 clean enough to be sure, for Tiberias. The first room was 
 fitted up with homely dewans ; and the inner one, with its 
 stone floor and whitewashed walls, had the usual European 
 furniture, of an uncostly kind. This was allotted for our 
 accommodation. We did not expect to be thus lodged at 
 Tiberias ; and the surprize was increased, when in preparation 
 for our meal, our host brought out from a massive chest 
 of drawers silver candlesticks silver spoons and forks, and 
 various other articles of the same metal as if to shew us what 
 a set off he could produce, against all the external wretched- 
 ness around us. Hassenein had previously recommended us 
 to take up our quarters with our Jewish friend (of whom he 
 had some knowledge), because at this time of the year, he 
 said, the fleas migrate from the towns to the country, for the 
 sake of something they like in the dry grass and herbs, so 
 that, if we pitched our tents outside the walls, we could only 
 expect to be overrun with vermin. We were none the better 
 for acting on this suggestion for during our stay it seemed 
 as if all the fleas, musquitoes, and other biting animalcule 
 of Syria were in league for our disquiet. I never passed two 
 such nights to say nothing of a height of temperature which 
 kept me as if in a vapour bath all the time. 
 
 We set out to explore the western side of the Sea of Galilee. 
 We had intended, if practicable, to procure a boat, for the 
 purpose of going as far north as the mouth of the Jordan ; 
 but not one was to be had ; so, relinquishing that prospect, 
 we proceeded on horseback. During the first two hours
 
 360 THE SEA OF GALILEE. 
 
 the road was rocky and steep, and afforded such a point 
 of elevation as enabled us to command a charming view of the 
 lake as well as of the interesting country on the eastern side, 
 every part of which was associated with our blessed Lord's 
 ministry and miracles. The waters of the noble lake were 
 smooth as glass ; and it was difficult to imagine that it was 
 susceptible of being lashed by such terrific storms as are 
 of frequent occurrence still. 
 
 Its estimated dimensions are fifteen miles in length, and 
 about six in breadth; but the elevations on either side, 
 give an idea of greater extent. The general appearance 
 of the surrounding scenery was that of sterility except on the 
 western shore, where a green and richly wooded plain stretches 
 downwards to the margin, and is intersected by many small 
 rivulets of fresh water. The Jordan flows through the lake, 
 and takes its course along the plain of Jericho to the Dead 
 Sea. It is a very charming picture ; but doubly delightful 
 on account of the august associations which it awakens in the 
 mind. It had often borne upon its bosom the most precious 
 freightage the incarnate Son of God. It had yielded 
 obedience to the gentlest, though the mightiest voice that 
 ever spake on earth, saying " Peace be still ;" and many a 
 time have its hushed waves paused as if to listen to a teaching 
 more than human, when the assembled multitudes were 
 gathered on its shores. Here, too, the faith of Peter was 
 tried when he essayed to walk on the wave, and trembled at 
 its wild threatenings. And it was from the banks of these 
 very waters that those humble fishermen were called, who 
 with all readiness of heart, left all, and followed their divine 
 Master. As I surveyed the scene I felt, this is surely one 
 of the grand localities of the Holy Land. There can be no 
 place for error. Here I can gaze with a satisfied eye and a full 
 heart. How often have my Saviour's feet trod these very 
 paths how often has his eye rested on these mountain 
 ranges, as mine rests upon them now. 
 
 At about two hours distant from Tiberias we reached a poor
 
 THE SEA OF GALILEE. 361 
 
 miserable village, with a mere handful of population, called 
 Migdil generally supposed to be Magdala. A little beyond 
 are several copious streams of brackish water, which flow 
 into the lake, from springs rising in the mountains on the 
 west. However abundant these streams may be, yet their 
 constant flowing imparts no saline flavour to the waters 
 of the lake, which are deliciously fresh very like those of the 
 Jordan. In about another hour, after proceeding through 
 lovely coppices similar to those which fringe the Jordan, 
 crowded with oleanders, tamarisk and nabbukh trees, we 
 reached another village called Mingca, commonly believed to 
 be situate within the parts of Dalmanutha. Another hour 
 brought us to Telhoum, deemed by some travellers to be the 
 site of the ancient Capernaum. It is a slight peninsula, 
 standing out into the sea for about a quarter of a mile beyond 
 the line of the coast. At the extreme point is the ruin of a 
 square tower, probably constructed of the stones of the 
 fallen city. Amidst many other fragments are the remains 
 of a temple on a bold scale, in rather coarse, white marble ; 
 and though some idea of architectural form and order is still 
 traceable, yet Capernaum, with its towers and temples, is now 
 but a name. Once lifted up to heaven, it has been cast down 
 to hades. And Chorazin and Bethsaida where are they ? 
 That they once existed and flourished, and were graced by 
 the divine presence of the Eternal One, we are sure. That the 
 woe denounced against them has been fulfilled to the letter, 
 who will deny ? But yet mystery deep mystery, overhangs 
 this region, once so privileged, but always so faithless ; and 
 now, when the passing Arab is questioned and bid to tell 
 what he knows of Capernaum, Chorazin, Bethsaida he 
 guesses, or is silent; and conjecture only, fills the mind of the 
 intelligent and thoughtful traveller. 
 
 We lingered delightfully about the land of Gennesareth, 
 musing on the gospel narratives ; and I indulged myself by 
 bathing in the clear waters of the lake. In the evening we 
 returned to Tiberias, having resolved on retracing our steps 
 early on the following morning.
 
 362 CANA OF GALILEE. 
 
 By six o'clock we were on our way; and after a ride 
 of four hours and a half, came in sight of Cana of Galilee, 
 which we determined to make the place of our noontide 
 rest; and accordingly spread our carpets in a delightfully 
 shaded grove of fig and pomegranate trees, having our 
 horses and beasts of burden tethered around us. Just in 
 front, on a slight elevation, stood the small and now miserable 
 little village, picturesque enough, to be sure, but peculiarly 
 interesting, as the scene of our blessed Redeemer's first 
 miracle. Here then it was that Jesus with Mary his Mother, 
 sat as guests, and shared the hospitalities of the assembled 
 marriage party ; and here it was that the very water owned 
 the presence and the power of its Creator. 1 The main 
 fountain, or spring of Cana was near at hand ; and from it 
 we were supplied with water for our present refreshment and 
 future use. It was pleasant to encourage the not unfounded 
 notion, that from this very spring was drawn the water which 
 the governor of the feast designated as "the good wine." 
 The greater part of the few inhabitants of Cana are said to be 
 Christians, which is in some degree indicated by its present 
 name Kejfer-kenna, which means inJidcl-CmnB.. Keft'er 
 ( infidel J is a term usually applied by the Musselmans to 
 places whose inhabitants profess Christianity. It was when 
 Jesus was once sojourning at Cana of Galilee, on his return 
 from Samaria, that the nobleman of Capernaum, whose son 
 was at the point of death, came beseeching him to go down 
 and heal the child. "Go thy way thy son liveth." The 
 omnipotence of the divine will was displayed "At the 
 seventh hour, the fever left him. So the father knew that it 
 was at the same hour in the which Jesus said unto him, Thy 
 son liveth : and himself believed, and his whole house." 2 
 
 In the afternoon we resumed our journey towards Nazareth, 
 by a road the usual road through which our Redeemer must 
 frequently have passed. It is manifestly a very ancient road, 
 
 1 John ii. 1 11. a See John iv. 4654.
 
 SCRIPTURE IMAGERY ADVENTURE. 363 
 
 but dull and uninteresting except on account of its associations. 
 We reached Nazareth about six o'clock in the evening, charmed 
 with the delightful excursion we had made. How many of the 
 images employed in our Lord's parables and discourses arrested 
 our attention while at Nazareth and in Galilee the sheep 
 and goats constantly herded together the shepherds leading 
 and the flocks following; the threshing-floor the winnowing 
 of the corn, and the burning up of the chaff; the birds of the 
 air skimming along the valleys the foxes, with their holes 
 in the rocks which they inhabit ; the flowers of the field, &c., 
 &c. How very familiar and delightful did scripture imagery 
 become. 
 
 We had purposed to start early on the next morning towards 
 Mount Carmel, but Abd'lawahyed discovered that he had 
 been robbed during our absence. We had left all our heavy 
 baggage at the convent ; and he, amongst other things had left 
 his purse, containing nearly the whole of two months' wages 
 which we had paid him at Jerusalem. Two hundred and 
 fifty piastres were stolen. The key of our rooms had been 
 left in charge of a servant of the convent, who had previously 
 been in attendance upon us. As soon as the robbery was 
 discovered, it was made known to the Superior, who waited 
 upon us instantly, and appeared much distressed that such a 
 thing should have happened. Abd'lawahyed and Hassenein 
 went to the Governor's house (a Turk), with the intention of 
 seeking redress ; but he was asleep, and must not be aioaUened. 
 We resolved on awaiting his worship's waking time, however 
 it might interfere with our intended movements, in order that, 
 if possible, justice might be obtained. We waited till half-past 
 eight o'clock, when the servants were admitted to an audience 
 of the Governor, and stated their grievance ; but oh shame ! 
 he said he could not interfere, as we (the masters) and the 
 servants of the convent were all Christians ! There was an end 
 of the matter and we departed without redress. 
 
 At nine o'clock we started, with no very pleasant impressions 
 either of the Turkish virtue or Christian honesty of the people
 
 364 JOURNEY TOWARDS MOUNT C ARM EL. 
 
 of Nazareth. After descending the bare ridge of hills which 
 surround the city, we again entered on the western portion 
 of the plain of Esdraelon, and crossed till we reached 
 that part of it which is usually called the plain of Megiddo. 
 We were soon in the midst of the finest forests of oak, where 
 we spread our carpets during the midday heat. I could easily 
 have imagined myself transported to some of the fine old park 
 and forest scenery of the best parts of England. The songs 
 of joyous birds floated around us, as we stretched ourselves 
 on our carpets for repose. I learnt to sleep at noon, with 
 as much readiness as if I had been born an Arab. It is quite 
 surprising to find how soon an European drops into the 
 habits of the people among whom he lives. An Arab can 
 scarcely take a recumbent position ere sleep closes his 
 eyelids ; and so it was with ourselves. 
 
 Much had been said before we left England, of the disturbed 
 state of Syria, and of the danger that would probably await 
 travellers passing through the country. Though much less 
 apprehension was entertained by our friends in Alexandria 
 and Cairo, still its unsettled state was freely admitted. But 
 certainly we never experienced one circumstance tending to 
 found a suspicion that Europeans would be endangered. We 
 travelled as safely as we could have done in our own land. 
 It is true, the people are all armed, and so were we ; and we 
 made a point of keeping our weapons visible; but never 
 had the least occasion for doing more. We received the 
 usual "Marahabbah," (You are welcome), from all whom we 
 met by the way, and as we entered the various villages. We 
 obtained for a small price, at most of them, delicious milk, 
 bread, and curd cheeses, made in little round cakes. The 
 people seem very poor, though industrious ; and for reasons 
 already stated, it is impossible, under existing influences, that 
 they should be rich, or even in easy circumstances. From 
 all I could learn, there was a prevailing dread among them 
 of being put under the government of Ibrahim Pasha. An 
 amusing incident occurred one day, when I had for a time 
 doffed my Arab attire and resumed an European one. We
 
 AMUSING MISAPPREHENSION RIVER KISHON. 365 
 
 saw a large party of Syrians approaching from a distance, 
 with their asses laden ; and as they drew near, they made a 
 brief pause to reconnoitre, and fixed their eyes upon us with 
 an intent inquisitiveness. When we had passed, they called 
 aside one of the Muleteers, and cautiously asked him whether 
 I was not Ibrahim Pasha, disguised in an European dress, and 
 come over to assume the government of Syria. We had a 
 hearty laugh at the amusing misapprehension. I had never 
 in my life before had the honour of being mistaken for a great 
 man. 
 
 Quitting our delightful forest shade at five o'clock, we 
 reached in about half an hour the vale of Zebulun a rich, 
 but almost uncultivated waste, having on the west the long 
 ridge of Carmel, which at the part nearest to us was clothed 
 to the very summit with fine oak trees, amidst which were a 
 few gazelles grazing. Soon after entering on the plain, we 
 crossed the almost dry bed of the Elver Kishon. Its banks 
 were fringed with beautiful oleanders in bloom, and many 
 other flowering shrubs. By this noted river were slain the 
 prophets of Baal ; and hither Deborah the prophetess drew 
 to Barak, Sisera the captain of Jabin's army with his chariots 
 and his multitude, and delivered them into his hand. " The 
 kings came and fought; then fought the kings of Canaan 
 in Taanach, by the waters of Megiddo : they took no gain 
 of money. They fought from heaven : the stars in their courses 
 fought against Sisera. The river of Kishon swept them away, 
 that ancient river, the river Kishon." 1 Silent was the scene 
 of those awful transactions, and peaceful as a vale in which 
 blood had never been shed. Before sunset, we had advanced 
 far enough just to descry the horizon-line of the Mediterranean, 
 and saw the last beams of the sun brilliantly defining it. By 
 about eight o'clock, we were encamped for the night, with the 
 summit of Mount Carmel that part of it more particularly 
 referred to in scripture, looking down upon us in quiet 
 majesty. 
 
 1 See Judges iv. 5.
 
 3G6 MOUNT CAKMEL. 
 
 I confess that I gazed upon Mount Carmcl with a slight 
 sense of disappointment; but only because it did not quite 
 correspond with the mental picture I had formed from the 
 time that scripture first made its name familiar to me. 
 The length of the ridge diminishes the sense of height ; and 
 it becomes less lofty as it slopes off towards the sea, where the 
 elevation is estimated at from nine hundred to one thousand 
 feet above the sea level. The proper effect of Mount Carmel 
 is however to be felt when occupying its summit, looking over 
 the wide ocean-expanse, and again when seen from the heights 
 of Acre. " The excellency of Carmel," if understood to have 
 consisted in its luxuriant fruitfulness, certainly appears to 
 have passed away ; for though in many parts it yet abounds 
 with the ilex, and is skirted with a fine growth of noble olives, 
 yet the word of the prophet Amos when he said " The top 
 of Caraiel shall wither" has been realized to the letter. 
 
 We quitted our encampment in the plain at the usual time ; 
 and in about two hours reached Khaifa, from whence we 
 obtained a charming view of the sea, and the bay of Acre. 
 This little town has an inviting appearance, and the approach 
 to it is very beautiful through groves of palm, fig, and olive 
 trees ; but, like all Syrian towns and villages, it is wretched 
 and uncleanly within. AVe passed as rapidly as possible 
 through its crowded and untidy bazaars, and made our way 
 to the Latin Convent a stately building of its kind, occupying 
 one of the finest positions in the world, nearly on the very 
 summit of Mount Carmel, overlooking the sea. The ascent 
 is by an extremely steep road, quite as much as our stout 
 little Arab horses and loaded mules could manage. We 
 were received with the greatest kindness by an intelligent 
 and courteous monk ; and nothing could exceed the civility 
 we received during the whole of our short sojourn on this 
 notable mountain. The convent has been entirely rebuilt 
 within the last twelve or thirteen years, and is upon a fine 
 bold scale, and of most substantial masonry. It presents its 
 lengthened front due west, and is three stories in height. 
 The church is well constructed ; and under the high altar is
 
 LATIN CONVENT ON MOUNT CARMEL. 367 
 
 shewn the cave in which the prophet Elijah is said to have 
 dwelt. It may be so; and I dare say the monks believe it. 
 Why should they not? The view from the roof is superb, 
 in the full and real sense of the expression and the sunset 
 which I beheld was magnificent beyond description. Our 
 accommodations in the convent were really comfortable. The 
 sleeping-rooms are nice, airy, whitewashed habitations, with 
 neat bed-furniture, and as many conveniences as are usually 
 afforded in those of an Italian hotel, which most travellers 
 know are rather slender, after all. I could not join my friend 
 and fellow traveller in exploring the mountain heights, on 
 account of a sprain of my foot which happened at the Sea 
 of Galilee, and kept me very much a prisoner, except when on 
 horseback. But it was enough to be on Mount Carmel to 
 realize in my mind the transactions of which it was the scene, 
 as recorded in scripture. It was there that Elijah "cast 
 himself down upon the earth, and put his face between his 
 knees, and said to his servant, Go up now, and look towards 
 the sea. And he went up and looked, and said, There is 
 nothing. And he said, Go again seven times. And it came 
 to pass at the seventh time, that he said, Behold, there ariseth 
 a little cloud out of the sea, like a man's hand. And he said, 
 Go up, say unto Ahab, Prepare thy chariot, and get thee 
 down, that the rain stop thee not." 1 And certainly, on some 
 part of this mountain range it was, that the prophet gathered 
 "all Israel" .... "and the prophets of Baal four hundred and 
 fifty, and the prophets of the groves four hundred, which did 
 
 eat at Jezebel's table and came unto all the people and 
 
 said, How long halt ye between two opinions? If the Lord 
 be God, follow him: But if Baal, then follow him" and 
 there it was that the majesty and honour of the God of Israel 
 were vindicated by a marvellous and miraculous interposition. 2 
 The recollection of Mount Carmel will not be easily obliterated 
 from my mind. 
 
 Next morning we took our leave of the friendly monks, 
 1 1 Kings xviii. 4244. J 1 Kings xviii. 19, &c.
 
 368 SCHOOLS OF THE PROPHETS ACRE. 
 
 and proceeded towards Acre, the fane commanding position 
 of which was very distinctly visible from the heights of Mount 
 Carmcl. We descended by a difficult path winding along on 
 the western slope of the mountain, for the purpose of visiting 
 some ancient caves, over and about which, rude buildings have 
 been erected. These are called, and supposed to have been, 
 the "Schools of the Prophets." There is nothing remarkable 
 about them, except the tradition. Again passing through 
 Khaifa, we pursued our way towards Acre, keeping at the 
 very brink of the sea all the time, so that the waves sometimes 
 washed our horses hoofs. On the right was the far-stretching 
 plain of Acre, running up northward, and bounded on the 
 east by the hills of Nazareth. This plain is well watered, and 
 capable of great fertility but alas ! barrenness is its sad 
 characteristic. It is indeed a melancholy thing to mark the 
 capabilities of Syria and Palestine, and yet to see an. 
 impoverished and miserable population almost starving 
 amidst the sources of abundance. 
 
 The bay of Acre is one of the finest things that can be 
 seen. And every step which the traveller takes along its 
 bold and graceful sweep, enables him to look back upon the 
 noble ridge of Carmel, which then assumes its proper 
 character and position. In about four hours we reached the 
 gates of Acre, having crossed the shallow fords of the rivers 
 Kishon and Belus, where they empty themselves into the 
 sea, and are not deeper than the hocks of a small Arab horse. 
 At the ford of the Belus, we met a large and picturesque 
 group of Syrian Christians, male and female, dressed all in 
 their best, and mostly mounted on horses, mules and asses, 
 en route for Mount Carmel, for the purpose of attending a 
 great festival, to be held in honour of the Virgin Mary. The 
 convent was in all the stir of preparation when we left it. 
 
 On reaching Acre, what a scene of ruin presented itself! 
 The history of its recent bombardment is fresh in the memory 
 of most of my readers. There was no part which did not 
 bear traces of the scathe of war. Many of its buildings
 
 ACRE JOURNEY TOWARDS TYRE AND SIDON. 369 
 
 appeared to have been thrown together as if by an earthquake. 
 The fortifications were but yawning and tottering ruins ; and 
 in the very streets, cannon balls lay scattered about in great 
 abundance. My lameness confined me to the saddle, so that 
 I could not mount the ramparts or explore the ruins minutely : 
 but I saw enough to make me shudder at the immediate 
 consequences of even the most justifiable warfare. Some few 
 efforts at restoration were being made ; but they were slow 
 and feeble. Many a year must elapse ere, even under the 
 most favourable circumstances, the lost importance of Acre 
 can be regained. The few bazaars which remain are poor 
 and scanty, and seem to supply only the barest necessaries 
 of life. 
 
 We now bent our steps towards Tyre and Sidon ; and it 
 was with no small interest that I looked forward to visiting 
 scenes with which the mind forms such melancholy associations, 
 while dwelling on the word of prophecy which has had its 
 most exact fulfilment. "We were still upon the plain of Acre, 
 on which are several small villages surrounded with groves 
 of fig trees, under one of which we took our noontide rest, 
 and then passed onwards through several cultivated tracts 
 of ground bearing their abundant crops of melons and 
 cucumbers ; while in the midst of the various allotments was 
 to be seen the "lodge in a garden of cucumbers." The 
 prolific character of the soil was very apparent, more 
 particularly when we reached some fine gardens, after the 
 Turkish taste, belonging to Ab'dallah Pasha. They are 
 of great extent, and surrounded by plantations of the stately 
 cypress, going up with its graceful spire, and contrasting 
 its deep tints with the fresh glossy green of the orange 
 and lemon trees which grow in profusion within the 
 borders. Through the gardens runs a delicious stream, 
 coursing its way from the hills eastward, towards the sea. 
 We pitched our tents for the night near a fine spring 
 of water, within about three hours of Tyre, called Ayim el 
 Masergi ; and so near the sea, that on the following day we 
 enjoyed the luxury of bathing. There were two drawbacks
 
 370 SCORPIONS CAPE BLANCO SCAUE TYRIORUM. 
 
 upon the comfort of our encampment the one was an 
 incessantly clamorous chorus of frogs ; the other, the danger 
 of scorpions, of the poisonous kind, one of which was caught by 
 the servants while pitching their tent. Happily we escaped 
 without being assailed by these venomous creatures, at any 
 time ; but were aroused from our slumbers at night by an 
 outcry from Hasscnein, who came rushing into the tent, 
 asserting that he had been stung on his hand. I instantly 
 administered to him a dose of ammonia (which he deemed 
 almost as bad as the mischief he professed to have sustained), 
 and sent him. to his tent again. In the morning I inquired, 
 and found he had not been really stung, but had probably in 
 his sleep been punctured by thistles, which were abundant ; 
 and his fears had given them the form of scorpions. In 
 former journeys he had been really bitten, and suffered very 
 seriously. So great was his habitual dread, that once when I 
 gave him a bottle to stow away, in which I had preserved 
 one of these reptiles in brandy, he actually threw it on the 
 ground in terror, as if the dead creature could attack him 
 through the glass. 
 
 The temperature was very high during this part of the 
 journey ; but I had broken my thermometer, and could not 
 continue to register the daily state of the atmosphere. It was 
 often very trying to the strength and spirits. On quitting 
 Aytin el Masergi, we continued for a short time across a level 
 surface, still within sound and sight of the Mediterranean 
 waves, and soon arrived at the far-famed rocky promontory 
 the Album Promontorium, or Cape Blanco. It is a mighty 
 mass of limestone, and ascends precipitously from the brink 
 of the sea, whose restless breakers dash around its base. Our 
 road to Tyre lay over this vast rock. The pass itself is 
 called Scales Tyriorum, and is said to have been the work 
 of Alexander the Great. Whether or not, it assuredly was 
 the work of an enterprising and bold spirit. It looked very 
 formidable as we began the ascent; but the way on the 
 southern side was easy, compared with what awaited us on 
 the northern. From the summit, the view was magnificent, and
 
 RAS-EL-AYUN. 371 
 
 we were enabled to catch our first distant view of Trye. 
 After pausing a few minutes, we began the descent. The 
 way is cut in stairs steep and difficult. It must have been 
 a work of immense labour and cost. Sometimes the path lay 
 on the very brow of the rock, overlooking the sea from a 
 frightful perpendicular height guarded only by a low 
 natural parapet of rock. With any horses but those of the 
 country, I think I could not have dared to attempt the pass ; 
 but our poor little animals performed admirably, and brought 
 us on the shore beyond in perfect safety, and without even a 
 false step. 
 
 The way towards Tyre was now easy enough. There were 
 no objects of particular interest to claim our attention, till 
 within about an hour of the city, when we turned off a little 
 eastward, for the purpose of exploring some remarkable 
 artificial and ancient curiosities, consisting of fountains and 
 reservoirs, originally intended to supply Tyre with fresh 
 water by means of an aqueduct. They are called Ras-el-Ayitn 
 (the head of the fountain). Their unquestionable antiquity, 
 and the admirable quality of the workmanship, the solidity 
 of which is quite unimpaired by time, invest them with a 
 peculiarity of interest. They appear not to have undergone 
 the least change since Maundrell visited them in 1697. I 
 therefore subjoin his description, as being more minute and 
 satisfactory than I am capable of giving. 1 
 
 1 " RAS-EL-AYUN is a place where are the cisterns called Solomon's, supposed, 
 according to the common tradition hereabouts, to have been made by that great 
 king, as a part of his recompence to king Hiram, for the supplies of materials 
 sent by him toward the building of the Temple. They are doubtless very 
 ancient, but yet of a much later date than what this tradition ascribes to them. 
 That they could not be built till since Alexander's time, may be conjectured 
 from this, among other arguments because the aqueduct, which conveys the 
 water from hence to Tyre, is carried over the neck of laud by which Alexander 
 in his famous seige of this place joined the city to the continent ; and as the 
 cisterns cannot well be imagined to be ancienter than the aqueduct, so one may 
 be sure the aqueduct cannot be older than the ground it stands on. Of these 
 cisterns, there are three entire at this day, one about a furlong and a half distant 
 from the sea, the other two a little further up. The former is of an octagonal 
 figure, twenty-two yards in diameter. It is elevated above the ground nine
 
 RAS-EL-AYUN TYRE. 
 
 "We spread our carpets at noon under a noble fig tree, 
 in the midst of a large plantation of tobacco a matter 
 of diligent cultivation in the neighbourhood of Tyre and 
 elsewhere. It grows very luxuriantly, and is, I believe, held 
 in esteem. After taking our accustomed rest and refreshment 
 we advanced; and another hour brought us to the gates 
 of Tyre. 
 
 Tyre is an object of the deepest interest, not only on 
 account of its ancient splendour and political importance, but 
 also, and more especially, on account of the fulness and 
 minuteness of the prophecies directed against it, which have 
 been fulfilled with the greatest exactness. Tyre, as we now 
 behold it, is as it were, a permanent, living witness to the 
 truth of God a hoary monitor speaking forth from its 
 desolation to us and to men of all ages and climes. Those 
 
 yards on the south side, and six on the north, and -within is said to be of an 
 unfathomable deepness ; but ten yards of line confuted that opinion. Its wall 
 is of no better material than gravel and small pebbles ; but consolidated -with 
 so strong and tenacious a cement, that it seems to be all one entire vessel of rock. 
 Upon the brink of it, you have a walk all round eight feet broad. From 
 which, descending by one step on the south side, and by two on the north, you 
 have another walk twenty-one feet broad. All this structure, though so broad 
 at the top, is yet made hollow, so that the water comes in underneath the walks; 
 insomuch that I could not, with a long rod, reach the extremity of the cavity. 
 The whole vessel contains a vast body of excellent water; and is so well 
 supplied from its fountain, that though there issues from it a stream like a brook, 
 driving four mills between this place and the sea, yet it is always brim full. On 
 the east side of this cistern was the ancient outlet of the water, by an aqueduct 
 raised about six yards from the ground, and containing a channel one yard deep. 
 But this is now stopped up, and dry ; the Turks having broke an outlet on the 
 other side, deriving thence a stream for grinding their corn. An aqueduct now 
 dry, is carried eastward about one hundred and twenty paces, and then 
 approaches the other two cisterns, of which one is twelve and the other twenty 
 yards square. These have each a little channel, by which they anciently 
 rendered their waters into the aqueduct; and so the united streams of all the 
 
 three cisterns were carried together to Tyre The fountain of these 
 
 waters is as unknown as the contriver of them. It is certain from their rising 
 Bo high, they must be brought fiom some part of the mountains, which are about 
 a league distant ; and it is as certain that the work was well done at first, seeing 
 it perfonns its office so well, at so great a distance of time." 
 
 Maundrell's Journey from Aleppo to Jerusalem, in 1697.
 
 TYRE. 373 
 
 who would rightly appreciate Tyre in this point of view, and 
 understand the value of modern descriptions of it, should 
 carefully study Isaiah xxiii. and Ezek. xxvi. xxvii. xxviii. 
 My limits, as well as the plan and intention of this work, forbid 
 all attempt at an exposition of these prophecies. But is there 
 any need ? Has not every prediction become history ? 
 
 Tyre was the capital of the ancient Phosnicia, and enjoyed 
 more commercial prosperity than any city of the known 
 world. It was built by the Sidonians, after their conquest by 
 the Philistines of Askelon, two hundred and forty years at 
 least before the erection of Solomon's temple ; hence it is called 
 "the daughter of Sidon." It was of this city that Hiram, 
 the friend and coadjutor of Solomon in the work of the 
 temple, was the noted king. The political and commercial 
 force of the Tynans was vast, and once irresistible. When 
 the prophecies of Ezekiel were uttered, Tyre was at its height 
 of opulence and power. The first blow effectually struck 
 against its greatness was by Nebuchadnezzar, who reduced 
 to subjection, and ultimately destroyed it, after a siege 
 of thirteen years. This city is understood to have stood a 
 little inland, and is usually spoken of as Old Tyre. Not a trace 
 of it remains. This agrees with Isaiah's prophecy "The 
 burden of Tyre. Howl, ye ships of Tarshish : for it is laid 
 waste, so that there is no house, no entering in." The severity 
 with which Nebuchadnezzar treated the Old Tyre, seems to 
 have been provoked by the precaution long before taken by 
 the Tyrians, to establish themselves in an insular position, 
 more than half a mile distant from the shore, whither they 
 removed their wealth, and erected a strong city; so that 
 when, after thirteen years of toilful enterprize, he took 
 possession of the old city, he found little more than its void 
 habitations, and the armed force placed there for its defence. 
 Nebuchadnezzar was not then in a state to subdue the new 
 city; and besides, the force of his arms was then turned 
 towards Egypt. 
 
 But the safety of Tyre was not of long duration. The
 
 374 TYRE. 
 
 power of Babylon again came forth against it and prevailed : 
 and so complete was the subjection of the Tyrians, that (as 
 Josephus informs us), they received their kings from Babylon, 
 and were tributaries to Babylon. The prophet Isaiah had 
 thus predicted : " It shall come to pass in that day, that 
 Tyre shall be forgotten seventy years, according to the days 
 of one king : after the end of seventy years shall Tyre sing 
 as an harlot." 1 Here we have a note of time "seventy 
 years," corresponding with the termination of the Babylonish 
 monarchy, after which, by the aid of Persia, the Tyrians 
 reassumed something like independence, and- acquired con- 
 siderable wealth and importance ; and then it was that Tyre 
 sang as an harlot. Her final overthrow was yet to be 
 accomplished ; and this was, in a great degree, reserved for 
 Alexander the Great, who, by a scheme of gigantic magnitude, 
 rendered the city, even in its insular position, accessible to 
 the then usual mode of warfare and siege. In vain had he 
 endeavoured to effect its subjugation by attacks made from 
 the sea ; and it was unapproachable in any other way. He 
 then conceived the stupendous idea of constructing a mole, 
 which should at once connect it with the main land ; and this 
 was actually accomplished by driving piles and pouring in 
 incalculable quantities of soil and fragments of rock ; and it is 
 generally believed, partly on the authority of ancient authors, 
 that the whole ruins of Old Tyre were absorbed in this vast 
 enterprize, and buried in the depths of the sea so realizing 
 the word of prophecy " For thus saith the Lord God, "When 
 I shall make thee a desolate city, like the cities that are not 
 inhabited : when I shall briny up the deep upon thee, and 
 
 great waters shall cover thee I will make thee a terror, 
 
 and thou shalt be no more : though thou be sought for, yet 
 shalt thou never be found again, saith the Lord God." 2 This 
 wonderful preparation being complete, the might of Alexander 
 was actively directed against the devoted city in every form, 
 by sea as well as from the mole, which rendered it as acces- 
 sible as a continental town ; when after a close siege of seven 
 
 1 Isaiah xxiii. 15. 2 Ezckicl xxvi. 1921.
 
 TYRE. 375 
 
 months, the city being also attacked with fire, a surrender was 
 made ; and then was brought about the terrible announcement 
 of the prophet Zechariah "And Tyrus did build herself a 
 strong hold, and heaped up silver as the dust, and fine gold 
 as the mire of the streets. Behold, the Lord will cast her 
 out, and he will smite her power in the sea ; and she shall 
 be devoured with fire." 1 
 
 Various were the fortunes of Tyre after this fearful 
 overthrow. From one dominant hand it passed to another, 
 gradually declining till in 1516, it fell under the Ottoman 
 dominion, where it has remained until now a scene of 
 wretchedness and squalid misery. 
 
 And what was the master-sin, among many, of Tyre ? 
 
 She had "said against Jerusalem, Aha, she is broken, that 
 was the gates of the people : she is turned unto me : I shall 
 be replenished, now she is laid waste." 2 This was her sin, 
 she laughed Jerusalem to scorn. 
 
 "Therefore, thus saith the Lord God, Behold, I am 
 
 against thee, O Tyrus, and will cause many nations to come 
 up against thee, as the sea causeth his waves to come up. 
 And they shall destroy the walls of Tyrus, and break down 
 her towers : I will also scrape her dust from her, and make 
 her like the top of a rock. It shall be a place for the 
 spreading of nets in the midst of the sea : for I have spoken 
 it, saith the Lord God, and it shall become a spoil to the 
 nations." Here was her punishment. 
 
 Is it not said of Jerusalem "They shall prosper that 
 
 love thee ?" What may not nations and individuals fear, if they 
 have no love for Israel for Jerusalem ? Is there nothing in 
 the fate of Tyre, to make men pause and think when they 
 look scornfully or even indifferently towards the "peculiar 
 people" whom God hath chosen for himself? 
 
 1 Zecli. ix. 3, 4; Ezckiel xxviii. 18. 2 Ezekiel xxvi. 2.
 
 376 TYRE. 
 
 Tyre is remarkable on many other accounts. It was 
 thereabouts that our Lord cast out the unclean spirit from 
 the young daughter of the Syro-Phccnician woman, who 
 pleaded so earnestly and so tenderly. 1 It was there too 
 that Paul found faithful disciples, on one occasion of his 
 journeying to Jerusalem ; and in the heat of the Diocletian 
 persecution, believers were found there, who "counted not 
 their lives dear unto them." The Christian churches in Tyre 
 were once remarkable especially the cathedral so celebrated 
 by Eusebius. As an episcopal see, Tyre was dependant on 
 the Patriarch of Antioch. The renowned William of Tyre 
 was its first Archbishop. Several councils were held here ; 
 particularly that which condemned as heresies the orthodox 
 opinions of Athanasius. 
 
 With recollections such as these, how deeply interesting 
 was the first view and the subsequent visit to Tyre. 
 
 We approached it by the mole of Alexander, which now 
 gives the idea of having been the natural, rather than an 
 artificial approach. Before we reached the mole itself, 
 we passed over deep and fatiguing accumulations of sand, 
 partly concealing numerous ruins scattered about in sad and 
 desolate confusion. Besides the slight remains of the ancient 
 fortifications extending outwards to the sea, the greater part 
 of Tyre as it is, consists of modern structures ; and there was 
 still a slight effort at extending human habitations within the 
 walls. Extreme poverty characterizes the place and people. 
 The bazaars are poor and scanty in their provisions. The 
 old harbour, which is on the north, and once received the 
 largest trading vessels of the world, is now so circumscribed 
 and filled up, that only small craft can enter, some few 
 of which were lying at anchor. A few fragments of the 
 old harbour walls yet stand up above the surface of the sea, 
 to shew that such things were. The remains of the church 
 of Origen are yet visible. It is on the south, and forms part 
 
 1 Mark vii 24-30.
 
 TYRE. 377 
 
 of the wall. The fragments which remain serve to indicate 
 its magnitude. Pillars and capitals are to be seen as they 
 have lain for ages, in various parts, partly buried in the 
 drifted sands. Though Christianity once flourished here, 
 yet it has dwindled and decayed the light is indeed dim. 
 The little Christianity which exists, is I fear but nominal, and 
 the crescent gleams more brightly than the cross. 
 
 What a lesson does Tyre even in her present state, 
 
 address to the hearts of thoughtful aye, of thoughtless 
 men ! When those who are citizens of a country, so highly 
 honoured so spiritually privileged so distinguished as 
 England, come forth and. gaze upon her, and remember 
 how our Lord himself said "Woe unto thce Chorazin ! 
 Woe unto thee Bethsaida ! for if the mighty works which 
 were done in you, had been done in Tyre and Sidon, they 
 would have repented long ago in sackcloth and ashes ; but, 
 I say unto you, It shall be more tolerable for Tyre and Sidon 
 at the day of judgment, than for you" when they have these 
 awful words sounding in their ears, as they gaze have they 
 not reason to tremble for their country, lest her privileges 
 be fatally abused lest she finally fail of giving glory to God, 
 and lest his righteous judgments leap forth to the vindication 
 of His oft-insulted majesty ? The woe has come upon 
 Chorazin and Bethsaida. The woe is still upon Tyre. Where 
 may it fall next ? Can we not " discern the signs of the 
 times ?" 
 
 Resuming our journey, we proceeded for about three hours 
 almost entirely by the sea side, till we reached a river of 
 considerable breadth, spanned by a solid bridge, having near 
 it the almost ruined village of Gasimieh. The evening was 
 closing ; and as we found an agreeable spot, pleasantly shaded 
 by blooming oleanders, we resolved on taking up our abode 
 there for the night; and by six o'clock on the following 
 morning proceeded in the direction of Sidon. Almost 
 midway, they pointed out to us, on an elevated site eastward, 
 a village of some pretension, called Sarfend, which most
 
 378 SAKEPTA SIDON. 
 
 travellers deem to be Sarcpta, though some have claimed 
 that distinction for a smaller village nearer the shore, 
 through which we passed, called Ayun-teen the fountain 
 of the fig. For the former there is a tradition; and the 
 Turks have erected their mosque over the alleged site of the 
 widow's house, where the prophet Elijah dwelt. We did 
 not go out of our way to visit it ; but pressed onwards towards 
 Sidon, staying only a few minutes at a delicious shady 
 fountain to refresh our horses, and get a draught of cool 
 water for ourselves. When we were within about an hour 
 of Sidon, we halted under the shade of some stately 
 tamarisk trees for our usual repose, having ridden for upwards 
 of six hours in the intense heat of the midday sun. We 
 remounted at five, and another hour brought us to the gates 
 of the city. 
 
 Approaching from the south, it presented a striking picture ; 
 but not such as to give an idea of its real magnitude, 
 or to be compared with that on the north and north-east. It 
 occupies an elevated site, and projects far into the sea. On 
 the east it has a bold fortified wall, over which the minarets 
 stand up gracefully. To describe Sidon, as to its interior, 
 would be only to repeat the description of most Turkish towns. 
 Its bazaars, however, are pleasantly shaded ; and there seemed 
 greater stir and activity than we had noticed in other places. 
 Amidst the modern buildings, of which there are a far greater 
 number, and upon a better scale than at Tyre we noticed 
 many of the remains of ancient splendour such as fragments 
 of old masonry columns entablatures, &c. We loitered 
 through the miserable streets, but did not dismount or make 
 any lengthened stay. We found an abundance of grapes and 
 water melons, of which the servants procured a supply, and 
 also some small bunches of the most fragrant jessamine flowers. 
 The blossoms were much larger than those produced in Europe, 
 and their fragrance exceedingly powerful. 
 
 We quitted the city by a gate opening to the north-east, 
 bringing us immediately to the sands of the sea shore, upon
 
 SIDON. 379 
 
 which the brisk waves of the Mediterranean were rolling 
 gracefully. It was then that Sidon appeared in its beauty, 
 and in this point of view it is beautiful indeed. The eastern 
 side is enclosed by fine plantations of vigorous growth 
 cypresses, figs, tamarisks, and palms, which hide much of the 
 poor and ruinous architecture, but exhibit the summits 
 of some high fortifications and the minarets of two mosques. 
 Stretching far into the bay, stands a bold fortress, founded on 
 a rock, connected with the main land and the city by a bridge 
 of many arches ; beyond which the extent of the city may be 
 seen. These are said to be the work of the age of the 
 crusades. From hence several ledges of Mount Lebanon are 
 distinctly visible. I do not know of a finer maritime position 
 any where than that so gracefully occupied by the fallen 
 Sidon. It is all that the most picturesque fancy could 
 desire. 
 
 Sidon was once the abode of magnificence and luxury ; and 
 even in our Lord's days it was proverbial for this, as appears 
 from the spirit of his allusion to it. From a passage in the 
 book of Genesis, 1 it is probable that the son of Canaan was 
 the founder of the ancient city. In the time of Joshua (B. c. 
 1445), it appears to have arrived at the height of its national 
 importance and glory. There is no doubt that the Sidonians 
 supplied the first navigators in the old world. Their ships 
 not only commanded the Mediterranean, but carried on an 
 extensive traffic with the British Isles, in tin and other 
 commodities ; and they had, moreover, colonies in Africa, and 
 settlements in Europe. They were a gifted and ingenious 
 people, and excelled not only in the fine arts, but in various 
 kinds of manufacture. The glass of Sidon the purple of Tyre 
 and exquisitely fine linen, were the products of their country, 
 and of their own invention. They had a remarkable skill in 
 working of metals, timber, and stone : and the share they had 
 in the work of the temple of Solomon, gives proof of the extent 
 to which their talents had been cultivated. 
 
 1 Genesis x. 15, 19.
 
 380 SIDON. 
 
 Concerning Sidon Jehovah hath spoken; and his word 
 has been fulfilled. Sidon is even now another witness to the 
 truth of prophecy. "Again the word of the Lord came unto 
 me, saying, Son of man, set thy face against Zidon, and 
 prophecy against it, and say, Thus saith the Lord God; 
 Behold I am against thee, O Zidon ; and I will be glorified in 
 the midst of thee ; and they shall know that I am the Lord, 
 when I shall have executed judgments in her, and shall be 
 sanctified in her. For I will send unto her pestilence, and 
 blood into her streets ; and the wounded shall be judged in the 
 midst of her by the sword upon her on every side ; and they 
 shall know that I am the Lord." 1 It was upwards of three 
 centuries before the time of Christ, that this prophecy was 
 signally fulfilled by the Persians, under Ochus ; from which 
 time to the present, she has never lifted up her head. The 
 " Great Sidon" speaks volumes to the men of this generation, 
 from the littleness to which the judgments of God have 
 brought her. Her future condition will depend much upon 
 the ultimate fate of the Ottoman empire, and the adjustment 
 of the questions (should they admit of adjustment) between 
 the contending tribes of the Lebanon the Maronites and 
 Druses ; and these are all in the hand of God. It is probable 
 that the lapse of a few years may bring about results that will 
 be felt throughout the length and breadth of Syria and 
 Palestine all intimately connected with the hope and 
 prospects of Israel. Oh ! what a restitution of all things is 
 now awaiting these scenes of desolation and decay. 
 
 We pursued our course three hours along the sands of the 
 sea shore (the coasts of Syro-Phocnicia), with the waves 
 washing the hoofs of our horses. Frequently turning back to 
 gaze upon the city, we enjoyed one of the most charming 
 pictures imaginable. The ocean assumed its most joyous aspect 
 as it bounded towards the shore, while the ridge of low hills 
 eastward were bathed in the rich hues of the west ; and Sidon 
 stood forth majestically robed in the coming mist of the 
 
 1 Ezckicl xxviii. 2(123.
 
 NABY-YOUNES. 381 
 
 evening. Many parties of Turks, Syrians, and Albanian 
 soldiers met us some bringing melons and other fruits to the 
 bazaars, others loitering in oriental indolence, and all of them 
 picturesque in their attire, as the evening sun brought out the 
 rich colours of their flowing garments. Leaving the coast, we 
 struck off in a north-easterly direction to a steep, hilly pass, 
 which bid fair to be troublesome, if not dangerous for a night 
 march. The darkness overtook us, as usual, immediately 
 after sunset ; but soon we were cheered by the newly-risen 
 moon, in the light of which we were enabled to make our 
 way in safety for about three hours more ; and at about eleven 
 o'clock found ourselves again on the sands of the shore, 
 where we determined to halt for the night, near the khan 
 of Naby Younes a miserable hovel. We were invited to take 
 up our abode within its walls, but we had lived too long 
 in tents to forego their comforts for such an abode of vermin 
 and filth as a khan. Moreover, we had reason to believe our 
 own linen walls were the safer of the two. The khan was 
 surrounded by palms, and had a small garden of orange 
 trees connected with it. It was a charming spot for our 
 encampment; and the hoarse voice of the sea sang our 
 midnight lullaby. 
 
 "Naby Younes" signifies the Prophet Jonah. And there 
 is a Mahommedan tradition, that the scene of our encampment 
 was that in which Jonah was cast ashore after having been 
 voided by the whale. There is a tradition Mahommedan, 
 Jewish, or Popish, for every part of the Holy Land; but 
 happily, we have something more than tradition to guide us 
 in its most important localities. 
 
 At seven o'clock on the following morning, we were again 
 in marching trim having Beyrout as the next place of destina- 
 tion. We had calculated upon a journey of about six hours ; 
 but on account of the depth of the sands over which we 
 had to pass, and the difficulties of the rocky parts of the road, 
 it was nearly eight. Soon after quitting Naby Younes, we 
 reached an extremely picturesque village, through which a
 
 382 ALBANIAN SOLDIERS, ETC. 
 
 bold stream coursed its way to the sea, surrounded by vine- 
 yards and extensive plantations of mulberry trees, cultivated 
 in a peculiar manner for the nurture of silk worms. Encamped 
 in various parts of the village was a large regiment of Albanian 
 soldiers, in the service of the Sultan as wild and ferocious a 
 set as one could desire to look on. Some were loitering about 
 in parties with their guns; others stretched along in their 
 tents smoking laughing shouting; and their appearance 
 and bearing were such as to make me not unthankful when 
 we had fairly got out of their reach. We experienced no 
 molestation whatever; but a few not very courteous words 
 passed between some of them and our escort. The usual 
 costume of the Albanian soldiers is extremely picturesque 
 a crimson tarbouch for the head an embroidered jacket 
 coming down to the waist a white kilt reaching to the knees 
 and hanging in thick folds, and white leggings fitted to the 
 shape of the leg. A belt round the waist carried their pistols 
 and daggers. 
 
 After about three hours we reached a khan, where we 
 dismounted for half an hour, and refreshed ourselves with a 
 cup of coffee that ever ready restorative, the worth of which 
 we scarcely understand in England. Here we found a motley 
 party assembled Turks Albanians Syrians Bedaween, 
 in eager talk, discussing the merits of sundry weapons 
 muskets, sabres, &c. Many an inquiring glance was cast 
 towards the strangers as we sat by sipping our coffee, and as 
 Hassenein joined in the gossip, and I suppose related some 
 of our adventures. In about three hours more we reached 
 another khan kept, as I learnt, by a Druse Christian, who 
 received us civilly, and gave us a water melon and a cup 
 of coffee, under the shade of a fine spreading mulberry tree. 
 Here I first saw the peculiar costume of the Druse women, 
 the most remarkable feature of which is the Tantour, or horn, 
 made generally of white metal, embossed, and so fixed on the 
 head as to give an idea of the fabled unicorn. Over this 
 is thrown a thin white veil, falling over the shoulders and 
 lower parts of the person. Singular as the appearance may
 
 ARRIVAL AT BEYROUT. 383 
 
 be, it is, after all, not ungraceful. It is worn by all the Druse 
 women, and is to be seen constantly about the villages of the 
 Lebanon. Another hour brought us over an extremely 
 fatiguing way sandy, and consisting of perpetual undulations. 
 At length, with the range of Lebanon stretching out before us, 
 and a lovely valley of olive plantations cool and refreshing, 
 we reached the steep chalky pass which leads down to 
 Beyrout ; and beneath us with the charming bay to the left, 
 lay the city itself, with its domes and minarets glittering in 
 the sun. It was a superb scene. Words cannot describe the 
 magnificence of the range of Lebanon, with its wondrous 
 combinations of light and shade hue after hue, and tint after 
 tint changing like the colours of the chameleon. 
 
 Weary enough with our journey, it was delightful to find 
 ourselves within the walls of Beyrout; and so threading 
 our way, as rapidly as possible from street to street, we 
 soon reached that abode of fleas and vermin the Locanda 
 of Giovanni Baptisti, which, for want of a better, we were 
 content to make our home ; and it was not long, ere a tolerable 
 dinner in the Italian style, and a bottle of claret cooled with 
 the snows of Lebanon, effected for us the restoration which 
 we needed. The temperature was intensely high. The 
 room in which we dined was open at the top that is, it had 
 no roof; but a canvass covering kept out the beams of the 
 sun, and admitted whatever breezes might be wafted over 
 from the sea. The sound of the muezzin from the mosques 
 near at hand, calling the faithful to prayer, again reminded 
 us, by its shrill, nasal quaverings, that we were once more 
 in a Turkish city. 
 
 Oh the musquitoes, and the various other winged and 
 unwinged tormentors in these warm regions ! I had a 
 woeful night of it, instead of the rest I craved, after the 
 exhausting toils of travel. The incessant yelling and barking 
 of dogs, as usual, made night itself wakeful ; but I think I 
 could have, slept on in the midst of all this, but for those 
 insinuating insects who luxuriate in European blood. I
 
 384 BEYROUT. 
 
 once asked Ilasscncin why they never attacked the Arabs. 
 "Oh, Sir," said he "our skins are too sour for them." The 
 musquitoes are good judges in such matters. On the flat roof 
 of the house were several beds constructed for such guests 
 as chose to occupy them. We were content with such as we 
 could find below poor enough to be sure, and with musquito 
 curtains so full of holes as to tempt the creatures they were 
 intended to baffle. 
 
 The situation of Bey rout is admirable; and the view from 
 the heights on the south and south-west, comprising the city 
 itself the fine bay, and the noble range of Lebanon, is all 
 that the most tasteful mind could desire. But certainly 
 Beyrout is seen best at a distance. Like all oriental towns, it 
 is sadly filthy ; and in point of temperature, is usually deemed 
 one of the hottest in Syria. This arises from its low position, 
 and the want of land breezes. Though Beyrout occupies a 
 distinguished place in ancient history, yet there are now but 
 few traces of its former importance. It has quite the air of a 
 modern Turkish town. Its population is estimated at about 
 fifteen thousand, of whom two-thirds are said to be Christians 
 in communion with the Greek and Roman churches. The 
 harbour, though bold and beautiful, is bad ; and so abounding 
 in sunk rocks, that ships are usually anchored at more than 
 a mile from the shore. The admixture of many European 
 merchants and their dependants with the native population, 
 helps to give an appearance of business-like activity to the 
 streets, particularly those which are immediately connected 
 with the quays and wharfs. 
 
 "His countenance is at Lebanon."' Such is the figure used 
 by Solomon to indicate the dignity, beauty, and majesty of the 
 "Beloved" Jesus the great head of the Church. They who 
 have gazed upon Lebanon from the heights about Beyrout, 
 and marked its varied aspect, as the light and shade throw 
 their garniture of beauty around it, must have felt how noble 
 
 1 Canticles v. 15.
 
 LEBANON. 385 
 
 an image it is how fitting in its application. Lebanon 
 is a little world in itself; and the history of its tribes, its 
 religious and superstitious institutions, its warfares and reverses 
 of fortune, might well occupy a much larger volume than this. 
 It is still abundantly populated, notwithstanding the ravages 
 of the Druse and Maronite war; 1 and its fertility is very great, 
 by means of the terraced manner of cultivation which has so 
 generally prevailed in the East. From Beyrout, the eye 
 traces numberless villages scattered about even on the higher 
 ridges, amidst forests of pine and majestic oaks. The loftiest 
 peak of Lebanon is called Sannin ; and is computed at ten 
 thousand feet above the sea-level. There is an indescribable 
 air of grandeur and repose pervading this grand mass 
 of mountain, as the eye ranges over its graceful outline and 
 dwells upon the wonderful filling up of the picture. But 
 what must Lebanon have been, when the prophet Isaiah 
 referred to it as an image to illustrate his announcement 
 of gospel-blessing and gospel-glory " The wilderness and the 
 solitary place shall be glad for them; and the desert shall 
 rejoice, and blossom as the rose. It shall blossom abundantly, 
 and rejoice even with joy and singing ; the glory of Lebanon 
 shall be given unto it ......... they shall see the glory of the 
 
 Lord and the excellency of our God." 2 It must have been 
 far-famed from an early age of the world's history, as intimated 
 in the eagerly expressed desire of Moses " O Lord God ..... 
 
 I pray thee, let me go over and see the good land that is 
 beyond Jordan, that goodly mountain, and [even] Lebanon." 3 
 If it were not still magnificently beautiful, yet, Lebanon would 
 be an object of untiring interest to the traveller who loves his 
 bible, and delights in pondering its marvellous history. 
 
 The two principal tribes who inhabit Lebanon, are the 
 Maronites in communion with the See of Rome, though not 
 entirely accordant in all particulars ; and the Druses whose 
 
 1 
 
 The population of Lebanon is estimated at two hundred thousand. If this 
 be correct, it exceeds the population of all the rest of Palestine. 
 
 a Isaiah xxxv. 1,2. 3 Deuteronomy iil 24, 25. 
 
 *B
 
 386 THE TRIBES OF LEBANON. 
 
 religion is an unsearchable, secret mysticism. The feud 
 between them is deadly and devastating ; and during the late 
 war, it was the policy of the Turkish government to supply 
 them both with ammunition, in the hope of reducing their 
 aggregate numbers to a more manageable scale. The former 
 are of Syrian origin ; and though found in most parts 
 of Lebanon, yet are chiefly congregated in the central regions. 
 They speak Arabic, in common with all the inhabitants 
 of Syria and Palestine, but write it generally in the Syriac 
 character. This is the result of the subjection of the whole 
 country to the Ottoman empire, whose policy it was to make 
 their own a universal language. An expedient of atrocious 
 cruelty was resorted to for this purpose. The Turkish 
 conquerors cut out the tongues of the aged inhabitants, 
 sparing only the children, the more effectually to prevent 
 the propagation of the Syriac language which they desired 
 utterly to extinguish. The Druses occupy Gebel Sannin, 
 that is, the southern part of the mountain-chain, including 
 Kesrouan and Deir el Khammar, the head quarters of their 
 chief, the Emir Beshir. Like most ancient mythologies 
 their's contains an idea of the incarnation of the Deity, in the 
 person of Hakim, a celebrated khaliph of Egypt ; and it is 
 said that they are looking for his return in a glorified state, 
 to perpetuate their superstitions. 1 Indeed, throughout the 
 East (may we not say the world?) there is a prevailing 
 expectation of the same character a looking forth an eager 
 expectation of the advent of some great and mighty being, 
 who shall perpetuate and make universal the particular 
 system or superstition to which each section of the human 
 family is addicted. It is the distinguished privilege of the 
 church of Christ to entertain an expectation grounded on the 
 sure announcements of the prophetic word. It is a certain 
 light, issuing out of the fulness of Him who is "light," that 
 guides our spiritual vision, and directs us to the true object 
 to One who hath said, "Behold I make all things new." 
 A similarly prevalent expectation was the precursor of His 
 first advent. 
 
 1 Sec Vansleb'a Present State of Egypt, pp. 170, 171.
 
 THE TRIBES OF LEBANON ROUTE TO BAALBEC. 387 
 
 Besides the Maronites and the Druses, there are two other 
 important tribes namely, the Meteualis, who live south of the 
 Maronites, and belong to the Persian sect of Mahommedans, 
 called Shiites ; and the Anzairies, who dwell northward of the 
 Maronites, and are descended from the ancient Pagan race 
 of Syria. Both these tribes are said to entertain degrading 
 superstitions, based partly upon the Koran, and partly upon 
 Egyptian mythologies. 
 
 After resting for a day if rest it might be called, amidst 
 the heat and incessant clamour of Beyrout we set out, on the 
 twenty-second of July, for the purpose of visiting the remains 
 of Baalbec and the Cedars of Lebanon. We were obliged to 
 forego our intention of reaching Damascus. The route for 
 which we were prepared, lay over the ridge of Lebanon. 
 Between Beyrout and the foot of the mountain, we passed 
 along roads of sand, often deep enough to be inconvenient for 
 the horses ; and on all sides were large plantations of mulberry 
 trees, cultivated for the maintenance of silk worms. These 
 plantations are hedged in by rows of the prickly pear, the 
 fruit of which was then ripe. The Arabs eat it abundantly : 
 indeed, it is one of their principal articles of sustenance during 
 the season. It grows with a thorny skin, and requires, when 
 prepared for food, to be handled with dexterity, or the hand 
 may be severely wounded. The flavour of it is something 
 like a fresh fig, but mawkish. It wants more acid to make it 
 agreeable to a European palate. 
 
 In about an hour we began the ascent of Lebanon ; and 
 having reached an elevation sufficient to command a view 
 of Beyrout and the surrounding country, the picture was 
 charming in the extreme. Palm groves, mulberry forests, 
 vineyards, convents, and cottage habitations, combined to 
 produce such an effect as cannot easily be forgotten ; and the 
 blue waters of the Mediterranean sparkled in the distance. 
 The passes of Lebanon at length became very fatiguing and 
 difficult; and required that we should keep our seats on 
 horseback with great firmness. "We were on the high road
 
 388 ROUTE TOWARDS BAALBEC. 
 
 the ancient one, to Damascus. The mountainous formation 
 is very bold, yet graceful; and villages, occupying steep 
 positions, are scattered in all directions. At noon we rested 
 in a mulberry grove, in front of a miserable khan, about which 
 were gathered many of the shepherds with their flocks. 
 Refreshed by the savoury fare of our clever cook Abd'lawahyed 
 (who could contrive a welcome meal out of a very few 
 simples), and having taken a quiet nap, we resumed our 
 march, fortified against future toils and difficulties. We 
 continued till eleven o'clock at night, pausing only for 
 a short time to re-adjust our baggage. Some parts of our 
 route were really formidable, the more so as the twilight 
 gathered round us, and afterwards when the moon gave 
 its uncertain light. The declivities down which we passed 
 were sometimes so fearfully steep and precipitous the ascents 
 so abrupt, and frequently so like the sloping roof of a 
 slated house, that as I sat on my horse, I positively wondered 
 how I was borne along so safely. We made no false 
 steps. In one place, however, I was glad to dismount 
 and trust to my own hands and knees, while my horse gaily 
 followed at his ease. We were excessively weary at the 
 end of this day's journey; but happily had mastered the 
 main difficulties of the way, and pitched the tents for the 
 night in a field belonging to a ruinous Maronite khan, on 
 the eastern brow of Lebanon, from whence, next morning, 
 we could look down into the vale of Bekaa (possibly 
 the "valley of J3aca" 1 both words signifying the "valley 
 of mulberries"), a broad expanse as far as the eye could 
 reach north and south, and many miles in breadth, dotted 
 over with villages, and skirted on the east by Anti-Libanus, 
 shewing in a south-easterly direction, Gebel el Sheikh 
 (Mount Hermon), with its snowy peaks. This plain is the 
 Ccele-Syria of antiquity. 
 
 During our afternoon ride about an hour before sunset, 
 we saw congregated in a deep valley, large masses of clouds 
 
 1 Psalm Ixxxiv. 6.
 
 ROUTE TOWARDS BAALBEC. 389 
 
 connected with others resting on the surrounding summits. 
 The low beams of the sun illuminated them in a very 
 remarkable manner. There were no clouds upon the face 
 of the sky. While the sun was setting, they extended 
 themselves on all sides and advanced rapidly upon us, till we 
 were completely enveloped, and surrounded as it were with 
 the temperature of autumn. When the sun gave forth his 
 last gorgeous rays, the clouds seemed, like organized masses, 
 to march away from side to side, taking up their position as 
 for the night, with the sun-glow resting upon their sides and 
 summits. There they stood like Alpine heights, and to all 
 appearance as firm a new mountain-region towering above 
 the mightiness of Lebanon. It was what the poet Coleridge 
 called "Cloud-land." In about an hour after sunset, the 
 darkness was dense indeed; but as we passed on, with a 
 bold peak of Lebanon before us a dark black mass, 
 suddenly the moon rose up from behind, and stood like a 
 brilliant beacon-light to guide us. During the rest of our 
 journey she left us not for a moment, and so illuminated the 
 wonderful mountain-passes, that we seemed to be journeying 
 in fairy-land the world of dreams. In this way we 
 reached the place of encampment, on the eastern side of the 
 Lebanon. Hassenein professed that he saw a wolf steal 
 along before him, as he was a little in advance ; but before 
 he could make ready, present and fire, the creature scampered 
 down a valley. 
 
 We slept soundly on Lebanon ; and when we arose with 
 the early morning, the scene before us was very charming. 
 The place of encampment was on a high elevation; and 
 there in front stood the range of Anti-Libanus, rose-tinted, 
 and shaped somewhat like the mountains of Moab. The 
 snows of Hermon sparkled in the sunlight. At about six 
 o'clock we began to descend towards the vale of Bekaa; 
 and as the way was easy, we reached it in little more than an 
 hour and half. We met several parties of Arabs and Syrians, 
 with their laden asses bearing various merchandize, from 
 Damascus ; for hereabouts the road thither bends off to the
 
 390 THB BEKAA NABEY-NOAH NABEY-SHEETH BAALBEC. 
 
 right, and runs over Anti-Libanus ; while the way towards 
 Baalbec is to the left. We continued along the plain 
 northward, with the magnificent heights of Lebanon westward. 
 There lay the snow-wreaths around its towering summit, from 
 whence is procured that perpetual abundance of ice which 
 enables the poorest man in Beyrout to cool his frequent 
 draught of water or sherbet, and the richest his wine-cup. 
 The plain or valley of Bekaa is but little cultivated, except 
 in small patches around the many villages. It abounds in 
 springs and fountains of delicious water ; and though yielding 
 only thistles and other such-like wild produce, on which the 
 sheep, camels, and neat cattle browse, attended by parties 
 of Bedaween, yet, like the rich plain of Esdraelon, it is a soil 
 which would respond to every effort of agriculture in an 
 astonishing manner. We passed a rather extensive village, 
 in which is an ancient tomb, called Nabey-Noah decorated 
 in the usual Turkish form, traditionally said to mark the 
 burial-place of the patriarch Noah. Not far from this, is 
 another village called Nabey-Sheeth so called after Seth, the 
 son of Adam. I was indisposed during this part of the journey, 
 and unequal to any effort beyond that of ordinary travelling ; 
 and did not go out of the line of march to visit either place. 
 Baalbec was upwards of eight hours distant from the place 
 of our previous night's encampment; and it was for nearly two 
 hours before reaching it, that we were able to descry something 
 like a tower which indicated the spot. The tower by and by 
 assumed a different form it was an elevation of six noble 
 columns, occupying a lofty position amidst the surrounding 
 ruins, which then appeared very extensive and massive. 
 Between seven and eight we were encamped on the eastern 
 side of these celebrated remains ; and when the moon rose, 
 they presented one of the most charming pictures I ever 
 beheld; but I was too weary and worn to enjoy it; and soon 
 betook myself to my couch for the night, after drinking 
 abundantly of the clear cool waters which flow profusely 
 round the walls of Baalbec, and gladden with their joyous 
 music the weary traveller during every wakeful hour of the 
 night. The tents were pitched in a fine grove of fig trees. Our
 
 BAALBEC. 391 
 
 horses were tethered around us; and soon sleep cast her 
 mantle over the wanderers in a far land. 
 
 In the morning, great numbers of the wild and picturesque 
 inhabitants of Baalbec surrounded the encampment to recon- 
 noitre ; and with prying curiosity glanced at every body and 
 every thing both within and outside the tents. Hassenein, 
 being a great gossip, made many acquaintances among the 
 loiterers. Though many travellers have been molested, and 
 compelled to submit to large demands in the form oiBacksheech, 
 yet we suffered no annoyance beyond the characteristic curiosity 
 of tlje people a matter easy enough to bear after having 
 travelled thus far. 
 
 I cannot venture on a minute description of Saalbec. 
 It would demand too large a space ; and even then would be 
 scarcely intelligible without many drawings and diagrams. 
 My first impression of it was received during a brief moonlight 
 ramble on the evening of our arrival ; and it left in my mind 
 a sense of overpowering vastness a sense which was not by 
 any means diminished on the following morning, even though 
 the shadowy, dreamy aspect of moonlight had passed away. 
 The first thing that arrested my attention was the positive 
 state of " tumbled ruin" in which the greater part of Baal's 
 Temple lay. It does not appear like a thing which has 
 gradually mouldered under the decaying sweep of ages, but as 
 if Jehovah had breathed upon it in indignation, and its 
 submissive masses had crashed downward at His bidding. 
 One could almost fancy its destruction to have been the work 
 of an hour. All its parts are of gigantic, yet most graceful 
 proportion, and breathe a noble testimony to the magnificence 
 of ancient genius. Column and capital frieze and cornice 
 roof-stone and entablature all lie in dire confusion, yet as 
 fresh almost, as if the artist's chisel had but just wrought out 
 the conceptions of a delicate fancy, to perpetuate them in 
 marble. Enough, both of the Great Temple and the Temple 
 of the Sun, remains, to convey an accurate notion of the whole 
 design, when once the mind receives the leading idea
 
 392 BAALBEC. 
 
 without which all is but confusion doubly confounded. The 
 most satisfactory description, both of plan and execution, I 
 have met with at least in a compendious form is that given 
 by Lord Lindsay, in the second volume of his very pleasant, 
 frank-hearted and instructive "Letters on Egypt, Edom, and 
 the Holy Land." 1 His Lordship has laid fast hold on the 
 leading idea, and carefully though briefly followed it out. 
 
 I can and do admire Baalbec for the magnificence of its 
 design the severe and massive simplicity of its style, and 
 the unspeakable delicacy of its details. I remember it as a 
 noble specimen of the maturity of ancient art and genius ; 
 but apart from all things beside, I beheld in it an imperishable 
 memorial of God's righteous dealing towards those who 
 would rob Him of his glory, and transfer it to the creature. 
 Every yet erect column, and every fallen capital over which 
 the lizard rushes, or about which the serpent twines 2 speaks 
 eloquently to men of all climes who muse and meditate in 
 the silence of these majestic ruins majestic still, in their 
 desolation. In this point of view every ruined heathen temple 
 is extremely valuable, especially to the mind imbued with 
 Christian principles. Oh the costliness which idolatry has 
 lavished upon ruinous error ! Little did the adorers of gods 
 which were no gods, think how they were erecting monuments 
 to the true and only One ! How wonderful how humiliating, 
 that man, the creature of a day, should, by the steady efforts 
 of his genius, be the creator of structures which remain, when 
 even the name of the large-minded artist may have passed 
 away for ever from the tide of human traditions. Who 
 designed who built Baalbec ? Conjecture only ventures a 
 reply: and conjecture itself does but generate conjecture. 
 Shall we listen to her musings ? What avails it ? 
 
 1 Wood and Pococke should, however, both be consulted by thos9 who 
 desire to enter at full length into the spirit of this wonderful remnant of 
 ancient genius. 
 
 2 Great numbers of lizards graceful creatures, may be seen sporting and 
 darting along at every step ; and we found part of the cast skin of a serpent 
 several feet in length. It must have belonged to a reptile of great magnitude.
 
 BAALBEC. 393 
 
 It was something indeed to stand amidst the ruins 
 
 of Baalbec, and gaze westward on the heights of Lebanon. 
 Lebanon had become old had grown hoary in the lapse 
 of ages, long before the rich dawnings of Grecian genius 
 stood forth palpably in the magnificence of Baalbec. 
 Baalbec, though comparatively modern, is overhung with 
 mystery the shroud of buried ages is about it. Lebanon 
 as ancient as creation is known of all men : its record is 
 written with the pen of inspiration. Conjecture has nothing 
 to do with it. Lebanon stands looking towards Baalbec, like 
 the truth of God smiling in majestic pity upon the weakness 
 and error of a fallen race. As Baalbec crumbles in all 
 the steady progressiveness of decay Lebanon the glory 
 of Lebanon, only grows older, and carries on the simple idea 
 of permanence. Let us have this idea prominently before 
 us in our meditations upon the things of man and of God 
 of eternity and of time, and it will help to keep us rightly 
 balanced. 
 
 Before quitting Baalbec we made a final visit to all the 
 principal parts of the ruins, and were not a little annoyed by 
 the officious attentions of a number of Arabs who proffered 
 their aid as guides, &c., with evidently a lingering hope 
 of Backsheech sparkling in their eager eyes. We could not 
 easily rid ourselves of them, though we declined their services, 
 rendered peculiarly useless by our mutual want of a medium 
 of communication. While we were examining the minute 
 enrichments of the Temple of the Sun, a middle-aged man, 
 who appeared to be the Sheikh el Beled (Sheikh of the village), 
 was attracted by my use of spectacles, and intimated by signs 
 that his sight was defective. I put my glasses before his 
 eyes they acted upon him like magic; he seemed to be 
 gazing on a new world. It was beyond his comprehension. 
 He kissed my knees and my feet. I was unwilling to remove 
 the spectacles from his eyes ; but I could not spare them. I 
 bid him come to the tent, and made Hassenein explain 
 that I would give him a similar pair on reaching Beyrout. 
 He gave me the name of a friend there, to whom I could
 
 394 DEIR EL AKHMAR AYUN-EL-TEENE. 
 
 entrust them for him ; and I suppose my Arab friend is now 
 happy in his power of " second sight." An Arab in spectacles 
 is certainly a novelty. 
 
 Quitting Baalbec at about three o'clock in the afternoon, 
 we proceeded directly across the plain of Bekaa, in a 
 north-westerly direction, for the purpose of visiting the 
 far-famed Cedars of Lebanon. In about three hours we 
 reached the village of Deir el Akhmar, occupying a pleasant 
 spot at the foot of Lebanon. In various parts of the plain we 
 saw large herds of camels and flocks of goats grazing on the 
 rank and coarse herbage which springs up without cultivation, 
 attended by parties of Bedaween, armed and watchful. And 
 though travellers have often been obliged to repel the attacks 
 of the wild tribes who inhabit the region of the Lebanon, we 
 experienced no inconvenience whatever, and were many 
 times saluted with "Salaam aleicum" (Peace be with you), or 
 "Marahabbah" (You are welcome) ; the ancient and accustomed 
 salutations of these ancient and peculiar people. 
 
 At Deir el Akhmar we laid in a store of provender for our 
 horses, and a supply of coarse bread for ourselves; while 
 large numbers of the villagers came round us with their habits 
 of curiosity in full exercise. We had hoped to get fresh and 
 palatable water ; but it was poor and turbid. The inhabitants 
 of Deir el Akhmar are chiefly Maronites ; and notwithstanding 
 their poverty and rags, are a graceful, handsome race of people. 
 There is an extensive cultivation of tobacco here and about 
 other villages of the Lebanon. The villagers were stripping 
 its broad, long leaves from the stalks, and hanging them 
 strung upon thread in the sun to dry. Having supplied as 
 many wants as this poor village admitted of, we began the 
 ascent of Lebanon ; and after continuing our ride for about 
 three hours more, through a charming winding road overhung 
 by fine woods of prickly oak, valonidi, and other forest- 
 trees, made vocal by the songs of joyous birds, we reached a 
 second village, the greater part of which, like many others in 
 Lebanon, was in ruins the effect of the Druse and Maronite
 
 ASCENT OF LEBANON. 395 
 
 warfare ; this was Ayun-el-teene trie highest part of the lower 
 ridges of the mountain, and from which the steep and difficult 
 ascent begins. The darkness overtook us before we reached 
 it ; when right and left, before and behind, fires were quickly 
 lighted up on the heights and in the valleys by the wandering 
 dwellers in this vast mountain-territory, whose home is 
 frequently beneath the spreading oak, or the remains of a 
 ruined wall a new home, it may be, for every succeeding 
 night. As we passed on amidst the forests great numbers 
 of fire-flies glanced with their brilliant glitter across our path, 
 with fantastic elegance and beauty, winging their way some- 
 times to a distance before us, and then suddenly disappearing. 
 The fire-fly is one of the most graceful things in nature. We 
 were not long in darkness, before the moon relieved us, 
 and made our route distinctly visible shewing the heights 
 of Lebanon above us with peculiar beauty. The evening 
 air was deliciously perfumed by flowers scented like the 
 clove-pink so common in England. Just beyond Ayun-el-teene 
 we descended into a lovely valley at the foot of the upper 
 ridge of Lebanon, into which rushes a bold stream or cascade, 
 formed by the dissolving snows of the mountain. Here 
 we determined to rest for the night. The tents were soon 
 pitched, and the slender comforts of our locomotive home 
 were again about us. So cold was the water which flowed 
 through the valley, that I was obliged twice to put the cup 
 from my lips before I could take such a draught as a traveller 
 in Syria frequently requires. I have often recalled the 
 wondrous beauty of the scene where we passed that night on 
 Mount Lebanon. The moonlight was so brilliant and its 
 effect so surprising upon the bold rock and forest scenery, 
 that nothing less than the vigorous pencil could depict it 
 words cannot. 
 
 On the following morning we set out by half-past five, to make 
 the ascent of the upper ridge of Lebanon. For the first three 
 quarters of an hour, the way, though steep, was not difficult. 
 The lower part of the ridge over which we passed during 
 that time was thickly overgrown with evergreen oaks, &c. ;
 
 396 ASCENT OF LEBANON. 
 
 but after that, the trees were but scanty, and soon consisted 
 of only a few poor stunted junipers and yews. There 
 were many wild flowers perfuming the air, and supplying 
 the bees of Lebanon with materials for their delicious honey. 
 After about an hour, we had a charming view southward 
 of the Yamouni, or " Lake Leman " of the East, as it has been 
 called a mountain-lake formed by the continually melting 
 snows. Though it really lay at the further end of the valley 
 of Ayun-el-teene, yet it appeared elevated above its real 
 position, as if nearly on a level with the spot from which 
 we viewed it. The route now became sleep and wearisome, 
 but our horses performed surprisingly ; and in about another 
 hour we reached a small valley running round the base 
 of the extreme mountain-ridge, where lay a large breastwork 
 of deep and firmly-frozen snow, glittering in the morning sun. 
 The atmosphere, for about twenty minutes before we reached 
 this spot, was elastic and bracing. I think I never before 
 felt my lungs so delightfully expanded. It seemed as if the 
 air ministered present strength and nourishment. In the 
 valley, where the snow lay on the side of the mountain, the 
 thermometer even with a July Syrian sun bearing down 
 on us, stood at 54 Fahrenheit. We refreshed ourselves with 
 handfuls of ice, and gave some to our horses. They knew the 
 worth of it and took it readily. Another quarter of an hour 
 brought us to the summit of Lebanon ; and here again words 
 are feeble. The mountain heights recede right and left, and 
 form two immense ridges of nearly equal elevation to that 
 on which we stood, very like parts of an amphitheatre. 
 From these the eye is conducted downwards on either side, 
 over multitudes of minor hills minor however, only when 
 viewed relatively with the main ridges but great in them- 
 selves. Following the descent, the eye rests on a vast chasm, 
 vast even at the distance from which we viewed it, through 
 which the Kadisha, or sacred river of Lebanon flows into the 
 Mediterranean ; while on both sides are scattered numerous 
 villages Psherre, Eden, &c. And in the forefront of all, lies 
 the magnificent expanse of the Mediterranean itself, which was 
 hidden from us by the mists of the morning. It was altogether
 
 THE CEDARS OF LEBANON. 397 
 
 a scene of surpassing splendour, condensed by distance into 
 the compass of one picture. The soil on either side of the 
 chasm had a fertile appearance, and there was enough of 
 woody garniture to give great freshness and gracefulness to 
 the valleys. Now and then a moving figure was seen at a 
 distance, ascending or descending a mountain path, or stealing 
 along the silent plains ; but it seemed as if there were a sunny 
 sabbath-keeping throughout the whole amazing region of 
 loveliness and grandeur. 
 
 But, we came to see the Cedars of Lebanon those 
 
 ancient trees of which Solomon discoursed, when his wisdom 
 extended from the Cedar even to the Hyssop that springeth 
 out of the wall. In what part of this wonderful picture 
 
 are they to be found? Let the future traveller look 
 
 downwards, about midway to the right, and he will see an 
 apparently small clump at all events, not a very considerable 
 one when thus viewed at a distance fresh, green, and apart 
 from all other trees. That clump those trees are the Cedars 
 of Lebanon. The approach to them from rock to rock, is very 
 rugged and fatiguing. I was sometimes glad to dismount 
 and go warily on foot. We occupied about an hour and a 
 quarter in the descent. On nearing them, the clump assumes 
 the stateliness of a forest. The young trees which skirt the 
 plantation are noble specimens, and justly claim our admira- 
 tion. We wound our way through the midst of them with 
 the "smell of Lebanon" about us, and soon reached those 
 venerable trees which have received the reverence of ages. 
 The ancient ones are twelve in number seven of them 
 clustered together, and the other five at various parts of the 
 grove. I did not measure the girth of any, but I felt their 
 gigantic proportions while reclining beneath their shade. 
 And are these the trees the very trees of which Solomon 
 spake ; and which have supplied the inspired penmen with 
 imagery to symbolize spiritual dignity and the glory which is 
 of righteousness ? Why should they not be ? I know not. 
 Certainly they bear traces of the lapse of ages upon ages. 
 They appear as old as Lebanon itself as if they had never
 
 398 THE CEDARS OF LEBANON. 
 
 been seedlings. If they are not the very trees, surely they 
 have sprung from the seeds of the most ancient ones. The 
 seven which are clustered together go up like gigantic pillars ; 
 and their interlaced arms above each in itself a vast tree 
 form a verdant dome through which the vertical sun penetrates 
 not. I delighted in cherishing the persuasion of their full 
 antiquity, as I mused on Israel's history, and thought of the 
 glory of Lebanon. As I gazed upon them, I felt that description 
 must always sound like exaggeration. I have seen noble cedars 
 in Europe the growth of centuries ; but compared with those 
 of Lebanon they are but saplings. 
 
 While assembled beneath the canopy formed by these natural 
 wonders, we were visited by a small party of Maronite monks, 
 who have a chapel among them, and are connected with a 
 convent not far distant. They brought us a supply of new 
 milk and very pleasant curd cheese, which, with a few eggs 
 and bread already in our stores, made out a very fair breakfast. 
 We had wished to be quite alone among the Cedars of Lebanon, 
 but were unable to shake off two officious monks and an 
 Arab boy, who tracked us in every step, knowing well the 
 meaning of the word the hateful word "Backsheech" and 
 pronouncing it with perfect ease and no small importunity. 
 We had paid liberally for our milk and cheese, and determined 
 not to yield to the cupidity of these pests who followed us as 
 guides. It is a disgusting thing to see the greediness of gain 
 which characterizes these poor people. One of the monks 
 seemed very anxious to secure our attention to the rude 
 chapel, in which he was, I presume, the chief officiating priest. 
 It consisted of four bare walls, open at the top, without any 
 roof, having an altar with some attempt at tinsel decoration, 
 and sacramental vessels. How sad that Popery should taint 
 even the remains of the glory of Lebanon ! 
 
 We returned to the valley of Ayun-el-teene ; and after due 
 rest and refreshment resumed our homeward journey towards 
 Beyrout, intending if possible to make six hours towards the 
 town of Zaakhli. We continued our way along the valley for
 
 RETURN TO BEYROUT CHRISTIAN EDUCATION IN SYRIA. 399 
 
 a couple of hours passing the eastern brink of the lake 
 Yamouni, which we had previously beheld at a distance. 
 We then struck into a bold forest path, and after about five 
 hours travelling found ourselves at a poor village called 
 Furriehs, having by some mistake turned off from the route 
 to Zaakhli. The moon was just up ; and while the tents were 
 being made ready, I seated myself on a fragment of rock, and 
 was soon joined by a fine, venerable, grey-bearded Arab the 
 Sheikh of the village, who after a glance of enquiry, presented 
 to me his lighted pipe a matter of customary oriental civility, 
 of which I took two or three whiffs ; and, however silently 
 we sat gazing upon each other, we seemed at least to be 
 very good friends. We were soon surrounded by the greater 
 part of the villagers, whose behaviour was as orderly as one 
 could desire ; and soon sleep put an end to our weariness. 
 The next morning we resumed our route at an early hour ; 
 and, continuing along the valley of Bekaa, retraced our steps 
 nearly by the way we had come. 
 
 During our short sojourn at Beyrout, I had the satisfaction 
 of making the acquaintance of Assaad Yacoob Kayat, a 
 Christian Syrian, and a member of the primitive church 
 of Antioch, who is devoting his energies to the promoting 
 of sound Christian education in his own land. He received 
 us cordially in his charming residence, overlooking the town 
 and bay of Beyrout, and overlooked by the noble heights 
 of Lebanon. He presented us to his wife, whom he has 
 emancipated from the oriental habit of seclusion. In Syria, 
 as in other parts of the East, the females are kept in a state 
 of sad ignorance, and destitute of all mental cultivation. To the 
 cause of female education, Assaad has given much attention ; 
 and the work is progressing prejudices are steadily declining, 
 and difficulties are fast giving way. This intelligent and 
 energetic man has thoroughly mastered the English language, 
 and abundantly profited by a residence for two years in the 
 University of Cambridge. In connection with "The Church 
 of England Society for Promoting Christian Education in Syria," 
 he has established schools for both sexes; but his main
 
 400 CHRISTIAN EDUCATION ANCIENT CHURCH OF SYRIA. 
 
 object is eventually to raise up a native agency ; for which 
 purpose he has promising pupils now in England, one of whom 
 is about to graduate at Cambridge. I had fully hoped to 
 pay repeated visits to his schools, but in this I was disap- 
 pointed, partly by our visit to Baalbec, and partly by the 
 necessity for preparing immediately after our return, to sail for 
 Constantinople. But the tone of Assaad's mind, in regard to 
 the whole matter of Christian education in Syria, was such 
 as to assure me that his movements would be zealously and 
 judiciously made. On one occasion, he sent for one of his 
 pupils, an intelligent boy of about fourteen years of age, named 
 Giaboor Bashoor, who first translated a portion of the Arabic 
 New Testament into correct, forcible, expressive English ; and 
 afterwards a passage from the English into the Arabic. The 
 whole exercise indicated an amount of quick intelligence, 
 which gratified me exceedingly. I was delighted with the 
 singleness of heart which Assaad manifested towards this great 
 business of his life which may, in the providence of God, 
 be an effectual commencement of a spiritual regeneration of 
 Syria once blest with gospel-light, but now so overshadowed 
 and desolate. What Christian heart would not deem it a high 
 privilege to lend a helping hand to this noble enterprize ? 
 
 Besides the Maronites, Armenians, and members of the 
 Greek church, there is a considerable body of Christians in 
 Syria descendants of the primitive church which has been 
 perpetuated, amidst Turkish and other persecution, from the 
 days of our Lord himself. Though in many respects super- 
 stitious, yet they hold "the head," and indeed embrace the 
 great leading truths of the gospel, and desire the free and 
 extensive circulation of the Holy Scriptures. Their form 
 of church government is Episcopalian, under Methodius, the 
 Patriarch of Antioch. Many of them, I am informed, give 
 proof of sincere, if not enlightened piety; and feel the 
 need of spiritual reform and renovation. Some of them, I 
 am told, know what their Church should be and desire 
 she should become such. May the work prosper, and
 
 CHRISTIAN EDUCATION IN SYRIA. 401 
 
 may the glory of it be seen in the day of the Lord Jesus. 1 
 The despotic hand which has so long held Syria in its grasp, 
 is becoming relaxed. The Euphrates is drying up that 
 is the Ottoman Empire is withering perishing "without 
 hand;" and there is a humbling consciousness of the fact 
 in the very seat of government. As this power declines, 
 surely the spiritual prospects of Syria will brighten. On 
 this subject, scripture is our best, our only safe guide the 
 infallible interpreter of events which gather and thicken about 
 us. The energies of the longest life, and the richest spiritual 
 gifts and graces that God bestows, would be nobly employed 
 in promoting the regenerative movement in Syria through her 
 apostolic church. 
 
 1 While writing this note, ASSAAD is my guest, with his interesting wife and 
 child, and PATRAGIE ZACHARIAS a young pupil. ASSAAD is now in England 
 for the purpose of interesting the members of our church in his important work, 
 and providing means for maintaining and securing the education of his pupils 
 already here, and others who may succeed them. Three of them, namely, 
 ABDALLAH ARAMAN, MOOSSA TANGOS, and NASSIF GIAMAL are at the 
 National School, Chelsea; one, ANTONIO AMIUNI, is studying medicine at 
 King's College, London; and a fifth, PETRAGIE ZACHARIAS is preparing to 
 enter the University of Cambridge, in October.f These are all of the better 
 class of Syrian Society. There are many other promising youths who might 
 also have been sent to England for a like purpose; but the want of adequate 
 funds has stood in the way. ASSAAD has succeeded in establishing two schools 
 at Beyrout one within the city, the other without; and also a third at 
 Damascus. These schools are now chiefly supported by the natives of Syria; 
 so that the great object to be aimed at is the securing means for educating 
 pupils in England for missionary labour for circulating the scriptures, and 
 superintending the schools. Let but the foundation of religious education be 
 well laid, and all will be hopeful. The worth of a body of well educated and 
 spiritually enlightened natives would be incalculable. Indeed I cannot see how 
 any effectual progress can be made without such instrumentality. I cannot but 
 think that the advance of this work may have an important bearing upon our 
 Episcopal establishments in the Mediterranean and in Jerusalem. Enlightened 
 Syrians are peculiarly adapted for useful employment in most parts of Asia and 
 Africa, where Arabic is the common language. They are capable of bearing all 
 climates, and of course familiar with all oriental customs, habits, and prejudices- 
 matters in which the best qualified Europeans would find great, and in some 
 respects, insurmountable difficulty. 
 
 t He is now a member of Sidney Sussex College.
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO AND 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 DEPARTURE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE CYPRUS RHODES COLOSSUS ISLANDS 
 OF THE ARCHIPELAGO SMYRNA THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA THE 
 
 HELLESPONT, ETC. CONSTANTINOPLE LAZARETTO DANCING DERVISHES 
 
 FATALISM SCUTARI BULGOOROO HOWLING DERVISHES JOURNEY TO 
 
 BROUSSA OLYMPUS THOUGHTS OF HOME. 
 
 IT was on the thirtieth of July that we embarked for 
 Constantinople, having completed our brief visit to the Holy 
 Land. Had I been quite master of my time, I should 
 probably have lingered amidst scenes so touching to the 
 Christian heart, and perhaps retraced my steps again to 
 gaze on objects towards which the mind instinctively turns. 
 Though compelled to forego this, there is yet deposited in my 
 memory a mental picture of Palestine which returns upon 
 me with all the freshness of reality, whenever I dwell upon 
 the pages of the Holy Word, and connect the facts of sacred 
 history with the undoubted localities which I have visited. 
 Lord Castlereagh arrived late on the previous evening, having 
 safely accomplished his intended visit to Petra (by way 
 of Hebron), Djerash, Ammon, &c., for which he set out while 
 we were sojourning at Jerusalem. "We had the pleasure, before 
 we embarked, of congratulating his Lordship in his tent pitched 
 outside the walls of Beyrout, and passed a short time in 
 recalling the delights, fatigues, and adventures connected with 
 our past movements. Leaving his Lordship quietly reclining 
 on his dewan, we gave ourselves to the stir of preparation, and
 
 404 DEPARTURE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 by four o'clock were on board. Our two servants, Hassenein 
 and Abd'lawahyed, accompanied us to the vessel, with the 
 feeling on both sides, that as soon as the anchor should 
 be weighed, our connexion would be at an end. I believe 
 we were all truly sorry when the hour of separation arrived ; 
 for they had attached themselves to us by unmingled fidelity 
 and consideration amidst all the fatigues and difficulties 
 of our journey. We gave them copies of the New Testament 
 in Arabic, with which our friend Assaad Y. Kayat had 
 furnished us ; and it may be that the Spirit of God will lead 
 them to the fountain of living waters. Our next meeting 
 may be in the white garments of salvation, before the throne 
 of the Lamb. 
 
 By five o'clock we were bidding farewell to the venerable 
 scenes of sacred story. The anchor was weighed the last 
 farewells were spoken ; and as the boat returned to the shore, 
 we gazed upon the receding bay and graceful city of Beyrout, 
 and the noble ridge of Lebanon ; and it was not long ere the 
 shores of Syria, and the heights of Lebanon itself became 
 confounded with the rising mists of the ocean horizon-line. 
 Our vessel was crowded with Asiatics, bound for Smyrna 
 and Constantinople amongst whom was the Deftar Dhar 
 the Bey and Treasurer of the Pashalic of Aleppo a great 
 man in his way, and a fair specimen of Turkish indolence and 
 indulgence. He was attended by his suite a poor miserable set, 
 whose whole time seemed given to the supply of his incessant 
 personal wants. The great man spent most of his time reclining 
 on his temporary dewan on deck, now and then reading a page 
 or two of sundry books, and sometimes turning over the 
 leaves of a copy of the Arabic Scriptures; but the charms 
 of literature seemed small in his estimation when compared 
 with those of the chibouk and coffee, the pilau, the melons, 
 grapes, and arakee, of which he received large and frequent 
 supplies. Then there was the Governor of Aleppo a 
 ferocious and cruel-looking Turk, whose dark, restless eye 
 seemed familiarized with scenes and transactions of terror, the 
 more especially when stimulated by arakee, of which he was
 
 DEPARTURE FOR CONSTANTINOPLE. 405 
 
 perpetually taking large draughts. As I watched the move- 
 ments of this man, I felt I should entertain but small hope 
 if it rested with him to determine whether my neck should be 
 laid bare to the sabre or the bowstring. His was one of those 
 countenances whose physiognomical indications could not be 
 mistaken. Notwithstanding all this, he was a considerable 
 poet in his way; and often, after sitting in dreamy meditation 
 for a time, would retire and commit to writing the creations 
 of his fancy which never went far beyond a stave in praise 
 of the Sultan, as I was informed by a young Maltese who 
 knew something of both his history and habits. 
 
 In addition to these, there was a party of five Abyssinian 
 female slaves, huddled together in a kind of pen formed upon 
 the deck. They were the property of the Deftar Dhar, and 
 intended as presents to certain of his friends at Constantinople. 
 They often indulged in shouts of merriment, and gave but a 
 faint notion of having perceived the degradation of slavery. 
 We had also on board a deputation from the Maronites, 
 charged with a commission to the Sublime Porte, in the hope 
 of obtaining a Christian, instead of a Turkish, governor. In 
 this I am informed they succeeded or at least that a Christian 
 governor has been appointed. Something more forcible, 
 however, than a Maronite deputation must have brought 
 about this desirable object. The Porte has learnt a lesson 
 of submissiveness, which will not be easily unlearned. The 
 Maronite deputation consisted of three energetic and intelligent 
 looking men men likely to be in earnest in what they 
 undertook. The church of Rome is powerful in the Lebanon, 
 through the tribe of the Maronites. 
 
 We made way successfully all night ; and by nine o'clock 
 on the thirty-first of July, were anchored off the southern 
 shore of Cyprus. The greater part of the island consists 
 of bold rock. We remained at anchor till about three 
 o'clock; but were unable to go ashore (except as far as 
 the Lazaretto, which had no charms for us), on account 
 of an existing quarantine. Cyprus is said to be about one
 
 406 CYPRUS. 
 
 hundred and forty miles long and forty broad, with a. 
 population, chiefly Greek, of about eighty thousand. Turkish 
 tyranny has reduced it to a sadly desolate condition. Dr. 
 E. D. Clarke observes that " Instead of a beautiful and fertile 
 land, covered with groves of fruit and fine woods, once 
 rendering it the paradise of the Levant, there is scarcely 
 upon earth a more wretched spot than it now exhibits. A 
 few words may forcibly describe it agriculture neglected, 
 inhabitants oppressed, population destroyed, pestiferous air, 
 contagion, poverty, indolence, desolation." The wines of 
 Cyprus are the only produce of any note ; and the quantity 
 of it is now greatly diminished. "Whatever may be the 
 present condition of Cyprus, however oppressed and desolate, 
 the Christian cannot gaze upon its rocky shores with- 
 out many a fervent recollection, as connected with the 
 first planting and early spread of " the faith once delivered 
 to the saints." He remembers that " Joses, who by the 
 Apostles was surnamed Barnabas (which is, being interpreted, 
 The son of consolation), a Levite, and of the country 
 of Cyprus, having land, sold it, and brought the money 
 and laid it at the Apostles' feet ;"' and afterwards went forth 
 with Paul from Salamis to Paphos, furthering the cause of the 
 gospel with which the Apostle was entrusted. In Cyprus also 
 dwelt Sergius Paulus, and Elymas the sorcerer the former 
 an enlightened convert the latter a punished opposer ;* and 
 there too in his early days lived the " old disciple" Mnason, 
 who shewed hospitality to Paul in Jerusalem. 3 Unspeakably 
 delightful was it to gaze upon this rocky territory standing 
 up in the wide ocean, and to feel assured that there the glad 
 tidings of great joy were fully proclaimed by the great Apostle 
 of the Gentiles, and that there the "true light" once shone 
 in its majestic splendour. 
 
 During all the next day and night, we were sailing over 
 the "Sea of Pamphylia," in the track of the Apostle. A 
 rather unfavourable wind made the vessel rock uncomfortably, 
 
 1 Acts iv. 36, 37. 'Acts xiii. 1 12. 'Actsxxi. 16.
 
 RHODES COLOSSUS. 407 
 
 and somewhat retarded our progress. We passed Patara 1 (or 
 Patras) about noon, but on account of a slight mist, were 
 unable to discern more than the mere outline of its rocky 
 elevations. Further inland, but of course invisible to us, lay 
 Lycia and Myra. We ought to have reached Rhodes by this 
 time, or nearly so ; but it was about five o'clock in the after- 
 noon when we cast anchor in the harbour, for the purpose 
 of taking in coals and other needful provisions. We lay in 
 harbour all night ; but were prevented going on shore, by the 
 quarantine regulations. Yet it was something to see and 
 touch at Rhodes. We naturally enough made enquiries as to 
 the precise spot in which stood the celebrated Colossus one 
 of the " seven wonders of the world," but were unable to get 
 any certain information. Some recent travellers have supposed 
 that the remains of buttresses yet standing at the entrance 
 to the ancient harbour, are part of the foundations on which 
 that wonderful statue stood. The space between them is 
 about twenty-seven yards. The statue was of brass, and is 
 said to have been eighty yards in height, and to have spanned 
 the mouth of the old harbour. It was erected by the 
 Rhodians to celebrate their successful resistance of the tenth 
 siege of Demetrius Poliorcetes, the son of Antigonus, emperor 
 of Syria. Though set up in triumph, it was, in rather more 
 than half a century, thrown down by an earthquake. So 
 perishable are the monuments of man's pride. In the year 653 
 its fragments were transported from their site, on the backs 
 of nine hundred camels. 
 
 Rhodes and its harbour form a striking and interesting 
 picture. The main town itself runs down to the shore 
 connected with the harbour, and is flanked by green hills and 
 verdant gardens. There is a massive boldness about the whole 
 scene, which rests upon the memory. About noon next day 
 we sailed out of harbour, and made way but slowly on 
 account of a contrary wind, bearing towards Coos, 2 which I 
 hoped to glance at, and Patnios and Miletus also; but the 
 
 1 Acts xxi. 1. 2 Acts xxi. 1.
 
 408 ISLANDS OF THE AECHIPELAGO SMYRNA. 
 
 night closed upon us too soon. In the morning, I found we 
 were sailing between Samos, the birth-place of Pythagoras, 
 and Scio the Chios of old Homer. The former was so 
 far behind that it appeared more like a mass of cloud than 
 any thing else. The latter stood boldly before us a finely 
 lined mountain-land, but barren. As long as Scio lasts, 
 the strains of Homer will vibrate in the world, charming 
 the excited fancy as the pale student toils by his midnight 
 lamp. I cannot describe the sensation of mind with which 
 I glanced on these various objects of deep interest, passing 
 before me with much of the shadowiness of a dream. 
 Classical or scriptural associations were connected with every 
 one as we drew upon the stores of memory. The pictorial 
 effects of these Islands of the Archipelago, or Egean Sea, are 
 very charming, as they gradually come into the field of vision. 
 Scio presents a beautiful aspect of fertility in the plains which 
 reach down to the very edge of the sea. The town itself is 
 considerable and picturesque. But the entrance into the 
 gulph of Smyrna is one of the finest things in the world. 
 The harbour is bold and extensive. It is guarded by a large 
 fort, planted with ordnance, standing about two miles or so 
 from the harbour. It was quite delightful to see among 
 ships of various nations, two British men of war. The town 
 of Smyrna extends along the greater part of the bay, and has 
 the appearance of great commercial activity. Most of the 
 houses are built of wood; and with their balconies and 
 somewhat European roofs, give an appearance to the town 
 very unlike that of the oriental towns and cities with which 
 our eyes had been so long familiar. "Within the last twelve 
 months prior to our arrival at Smyrna, nearly one-third of it 
 had been consumed by fire ; but as the disaster happened 
 at the rear, there is no visible disfigurement. In various 
 parts, even amidst the buildings, there are fine plantations 
 of cypresses, with their feathery spires of dark green 
 surrounding the many places of sepulture, and throwing 
 a solemn and sombre shade over the otherwise animated 
 scene. The town is flanked by noble ridges of bold rock 
 and mountain, whose sweeping forms are as graceful as can be
 
 SMYRNA. 409 
 
 imagined ; and the town itself slopes down from a considerable 
 distance to the brink of the bay. On the summit of the 
 nearest and boldest mountain, stands a castle of large dimen- 
 sions a noble object in the picture. The plains which 
 surround the approaches to the harbour are profusely covered 
 with vines, fig and olive trees, growing in full luxuriance. 
 The season for preserving raisins and figs had commenced. 
 When we lay at anchor, the harbour presented an entire circle 
 of rock, island, and city; and the sunset was unspeakably 
 superb. The effect was perfect. We had not been long 
 at anchor ere numerous boats surrounded the vessel, laden 
 with fruits of various kinds the produce of this far-famed 
 spot delicious grapes of extraordinary size and sweetness, 
 melons, figs, pears, &c., of which we laid in a supply. Besides 
 these refreshing productions, we were served with various 
 preparations of ice. The quarantine regulations forbade our 
 landing. I was vexed at this, as it was the only site of the 
 seven churches of Asia which we had any hope of visiting ; 
 but still, as one of them, it was interesting even to lay 
 at anchor in its harbour. What is written by the pen 
 of inspiration concerning the " Church in Smyrna ?" "And 
 unto the angel of the church in Smyrna, write ; These things 
 saith the first and the last, which was dead, and is alive ; I 
 know thy works, and thy tribulation, and thy poverty (but 
 thou art rich), and I know the blasphemy of them which say 
 they are Jews, and are not, but are the synagogue of Satan. 
 Fear none of those things which thou shalt suffer; behold, 
 the devil shall cast some of you into prison, that ye may be 
 tried ; and ye shall have tribulation ten days : be thou 
 faithful unto death, and I will give thee a crown of life. He 
 that hath an ear, let him hear what the Spirit saith unto the 
 churches. He that overcometh shall not be hurt of the second 
 death." 1 It is a remarkable fact, that while the sites of most 
 of the other churches of Asia are but scenes of desolation, 
 Smyrna, notwithstanding the vicissitudes to which she has 
 been exposed (all of them probably intimated in the prophetic 
 
 > Rev. ii. 8-11.
 
 410 THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA. 
 
 word just quoted), has been, and still is in every way the 
 most prosperous city of the Levant. Two causes may be 
 assigned ; first, the church which existed in the time of John, 
 has been really perpetuated, however its present form may be 
 degraded by the superstitions and corruptions of the Armenian 
 and Greek churches ; secondly, although such admixtures exist, 
 and the church is therefore manifestly corrupt, yet she has 
 never merged herself in the apostacy of Rome. It is true that 
 many individuals members of the Greek church, are said to 
 have apostatized to Rome (a most probable statement), but no 
 act of the church has constrained them to such a movement. 
 If then the Apostolic Church though confessedly corrupt, yet 
 maintaining her positive position as to Rome still exists, then 
 in a comparative sense, we may say of Smyrna "Thou art 
 rich." The church in Smyrna (IN Smyrna not or 1 ) has been 
 tried has endured her prophetically announced tribulation ; 
 and there she still stands IN Smyrna, containing within 
 her, as we trust, the seeds from which, in the providence 
 of God, her regeneration shall spring, so that she may be 
 "faithful unto death," and so receive the "crown of life." 
 I do think the history and present state of the church in 
 Smyrna are among the most interesting matters of reflection ; 
 and if the reasons above assigned for the existing prosperity 
 of the city be just in fact, and scriptural in inference, 
 then Smyrna speaks a lesson of admonition to the world; 
 a lesson which demands attention at a time when churches 
 and governments seem disposed to yield to the arrogant 
 assumptions of the See of Rome. If it be the perpetuation 
 of an apostolically established church in Smyrna, yielding no 
 allegiance to Rome, which, in the providence of God, has 
 secured to the city her continued civil prosperity then we 
 conclude, that in whatever degree churches or states coalesce 
 with, or even countenance the apostacy of Rome, in the same 
 degree may civil discomfiture be expected. 
 
 The foregoing observations and inferences apply, I appre- 
 hend, in some degree, to Pergamos, where Antipas was the 
 
 1 Sec RCT. ii. 8.
 
 THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA. 411 
 
 faithful martyr for Christ, 1 and where Satan dwelt. A 
 Christian church still exists there, though tainted as that 
 in Smyrna has been; but it acknowledges no allegiance 
 to Rome. It is still a fairly prosperous town now called 
 "Bergamo." The present population of Smyrna is estimated 
 at about one hundred and twenty thousand ; twenty thousand 
 are said to be Greeks, nine thousand Jews, eight thousand 
 Armenians, and one thousand Europeans of various countries. 
 Bergamo is said to contain about thirteen thousand Mahom- 
 medans, one thousand five hundred Greeks, and two hundred 
 Armenians. 
 
 Though I was unable to visit the sites of the seven 
 churches of Asia, yet the indubitable information which has 
 been collected, enables me to trace a strong contrast between 
 those just mentioned, and the rest, upon the principles 
 already stated. 2 Let the announcements of prophecy be 
 examined in reference to the ascertained state of Ephesus, 
 Thyatira, Sardis, &c. and the truth will be at once apparent ; 
 at least, a striking accordance between prophecy and fact 
 will be obvious. Ephesus is no longer a city. She "left 
 her first love" she repented not, and did not the first 
 works. The Lord therefore came quickly, and removed her 
 "candlestick out of his place." 3 Thyalira is still distinguished, 
 as in the days of Lydia, for the manufacture and sale of purple; 4 
 but this is all. Her commercial insignificance in other 
 respects is remarkable, while a few Greeks and Armenians 
 only, possess a mere nominal Christianity, in which there is 
 no spiritual light the candlestick is gone. Philadelphia 
 still occupies its original position of beauty, and has its 
 gardens and vineyards overhung by the heights of Tmolus. 
 It has been observed, that " its comparatively retired situation 
 might be one of the means used by God in fulfilling the 
 promise 'I will keep thee from the hour of temptation that 
 
 1 Rev. ii. 1216. 
 
 2 See Dr. Keith's Evidence from the literal fulfilment of prophecy. 
 3 Rev. ii. 4, 5, * Acts xvi. 14.
 
 412 THE SEVEN CHURCHES OF ASIA. 
 
 shall come upon all the world.'" 1 Only the corrupt form of the 
 Greek church exists there ; and its members are said to be 
 numerous. The word of prophecy held out encouragement 
 to Philadelphia, but nothing in the way of severe threatening. 
 " Thou hast a little strength, and hast kept my word, and hast 
 
 not denied my name Behold I come quickly : hold that 
 
 fast which thou hast, that no man take thy crown." 2 Sardis 
 is said to be altogether destitute of Christians and Christian 
 profession. " I know thy works " says the prophetic word, 
 " that thou hast a name that thou livest, and art dead." Then 
 follows the language of stern admonition : " Be watchful and 
 strengthen the things which remain, that are ready to die : for 
 I have not found thy works perfect before God. Remember 
 therefore, how thou hast received and heard : and hold fast 
 and repent. If therefore thou shalt not watch, I will come 
 on thee as a thief." 3 The Lord has made good his word. 
 No successors are found to those " few names even in Sardis" 
 who defiled not their garments who walked with their 
 Redeemer " in white" because they were " worthy." 4 Sardis 
 is a scene of ruin and decay. Laodicea is characterized by 
 emptiness and poverty the lukewarm Laodicea, of which the 
 Lord said " I will spue thee out of my mouth." 5 She has not 
 bought of Him the " gold tried in the fire," that she might be 
 " rich," nor the " white raiment," that she might be "clothed," 
 and that the "shame" of her " nakedness" might not "appear ;" 
 nor has she anointed her " eyes with eye salve," that she 
 might " see." She has been neither zealous nor repentant, 
 though the Lord has stood at the door, knocking; 6 and the 
 word of threatening has lighted upon her. Oh! that the 
 nations of the earth would take warning while the word 
 
 O 
 
 of prophecy and the history of the churches of Asia are open 
 to their observation. Oh ! that we, a highly privileged and 
 spiritually honoured people, may hold fast that we have, that 
 no man take our crown! May we strengthen those things 
 which remain may we repent and do the first works may 
 
 1 Rev. iii. 10. * Rev. iii. 811. 3 Rev. iii. 13. 
 
 4 Rev. iii. 4. s Rev. iii. 16. 6 Rev. iii. 1820.
 
 THE ISLANDS OF THE ARCHIPELAGO, ETC. 413 
 
 we beware against corrupt admixtures and innovations either 
 in doctrine or practice. God gave us a pure scriptural 
 church from the first ; and though the waters of life which flowed 
 through her, were for a time tainted by the heresies of Rome, 
 yet God in his good time stood forth for her reformation ; and 
 now she truly breaks and dispenses the bread of life, and 
 pours forth the pure waters, whose fountain-spring is in the 
 spiritual rock that rock which is Christ. 1 May we preserve 
 for ourselves, and extend to the utmost, what God has so 
 benignantly restored to us. Let but the character or position 
 of our National Church be compromised by indolence, 
 indifference or design, and future ages may have to gaze upon 
 the torn and everlastingly furled banner of England, upon 
 her crushed diadem and her commercial insignificance ; while 
 the supplement to her glorious history, written by the pen 
 of the historian of another day, dipped in tears may be 
 condensed into one short sentence retrospective humiliating 
 
 'Such was Christian England, on whose territory the 
 
 sun never set, in her prosperity : but alas ! her sun has gone 
 down she is fallen ; and the stranger from a far land smiles 
 at her desolation !' 
 
 At five o'clock in the afternoon of the fifth of August, we 
 quitted the harbour of Smyrna, and in a few hours were again 
 among the Islands of the Archipelago, which rose up like 
 shadows in the dim star-lit medium through which we gazed 
 upon them scenes over which the young imagination used to 
 hover, when our hearts vibrated at the grandeur of Grecian 
 story. When I went on deck next morning, we had Tenedos 
 on the left, and soon the plains of Troy stretching off to the 
 right, with Mount Ida topping the mountain range, from 
 which the poetic vision had conceived of "gods" looking 
 down on the warfare of heroic and mortal man. And there 
 too, was the site of the Troas of St. Paul the place where, 
 in a vision, the Apostle saw a man of Macedonia, who said 
 " Come over to Macedonia, and help us ;" 2 the place also, 
 
 1 1 Corinthians x. 4. a Acts xvi. 8, 9.
 
 414 THE HELLESPONT, ETC. 
 
 where, on the first day of the week, the disciples came 
 together to break bread, and Paul preached unto them, ready 
 to depart on the morrow, continuing his speech until midnight ; 
 and where he afterwards restored life to the fallen Eutychus. 1 
 It was charming thus to gaze on spots rendered sacred by the 
 presence and devoted labours of the great Apostle, and to 
 know that we were borne onwards over those waves upon 
 which his bark had often made its missionary way. 
 
 I cannot I have not space, to dwell upon the many 
 objects of abiding interest which crowd the picture such as 
 the Rhceteum of Ajax, and the Sigeum of Achilles, where 
 Alexander once stood, as it is said, and wished for another 
 Homer, and another mighty sweep of the harp-string ; and 
 such also as the tumuli of AntilocJius and Patroclus those 
 memorials of a wondrous and heroic age. With every spot there 
 is connected some Christian or some classical recollection 
 often both, all tending to keep the mind in a continual stretch 
 of imaginative reflection. 
 
 Before the evening closed, we entered the Hellespont, and 
 passed between Sestos and Abydos. Here the two great 
 continents of Europe and of Asia the Thracian Chersonesus, 
 and the cape of Sigeum approach within little more than a 
 mile of each other ; while the blue waves of Hellas rush 
 between like an "arrowy river." Was it not here, that 
 Xerxes, the fourth of the kings of Persia, (" far richer" than 
 the rest, who " by his strength, through his riches, stirred 
 up all against the realm of Grecia" 2 ) , was it not here that he 
 constructed his bridge of boats thereby practically uniting 
 Europe and Asia, so as to pour in the force of his warlike 
 legions ? Was it not here while they crowded the shores 
 of both continents, that the ambitious monarch wept at the 
 thought that in an hundred years more, not one of the 
 thousands would be left to give token of the pomp of his 
 regal power ? Even so. Xerxes and his bannered hosts are 
 
 1 Acts xx. G ]0. Daniel xi. 2.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 415 
 
 dust ! Not one heart now beats responsive to the clarion's 
 cry, or the thrilling phantasy of ambitious daring. Yet there 
 are the mighty continents, standing as they stood when the 
 pageant passed upon them ; and Hellas flows onwards with 
 the freshness of a youthful stream. 
 
 We lost much of the beauty of the Hellespont, by reason 
 of our night-sailing ; but we just glanced from side to side till 
 the last shadows of evening gathered over scenery that was 
 very lovely the land of the " cypress and myrtle," with 
 its graceful minarets and mosques, and picturesque, painted 
 houses of wood, amidst groves of olives, lofty cypress and 
 prolific gardens. "We lay down to rest soon after the beautiful 
 vision was closed, in the expectation that our waking eyes 
 would rest on the splendours of Stambool the ancient 
 Byzantium the capital of the first Christian emperor now 
 the capital of the crescent. Alas ! for Constantino. Alas ! 
 for Constantinople. 
 
 August seventh. At five o'clock I was aroused from my 
 berth by the announcement that we were at length within 
 sight of Constantinople. I started up instantly ; and without 
 staying to dress, threw on my large cloak and rushed upon 
 deck ; and certainly I was abundantly repaid by one of the 
 most superb scenes on which my eyes ever rested. Far ahead 
 rolled the Bosphorus before us stretched the magnificent 
 ocean-entrance to the wondrous city. All was dim and 
 shadowy, as the mists of the early morning hung like a veil 
 of gossamer over the vast array of white domes, towers, 
 and lofty minarets. So dreamy, changing, and vast was the 
 picture as we moved on, that there was almost need to pause 
 and be satisfied it was not a night-vision of the excited fancy. 
 The morning sun was struggling with the thin mists and 
 beneath their veil, cast a pink hue upon the white and 
 glistening expanse of architectural magnificence. The whole 
 city seemed to have sprung up from the ocean depths at the 
 bidding of some enchanter. On the right lay Scutari the 
 Asiatic part of the city. On the left, Stambool and Pera
 
 416 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 the European part. On either side, the city is carried up 
 bold and rocky elevations, flanked by hills still loftier, 
 crowned and in many parts covered by groves of towering 
 cypress, which made old Sandys say, " It seemeth to present 
 a city in a wood to the pleased beholders." As we advanced 
 up towards the extreme part of the sea of Marmora, the view 
 became more and more definite. The mist was gradually 
 departing, and the sun acquiring greater power and brightness. 
 At length, we actually entered the port, having on our left 
 the ancient royal residence the Seraglio that dark scene 
 of cruelty, treachery, and blood. It is of great extent, walled 
 round; and has the appearance of a considerable town in itself. 
 The walls, which abut upon the sea, are massive and lofty. 
 Between and around various parts of the Seraglio are rich 
 plantations of luxuriantly growing trees, various in their 
 kinds, intermingled with some of the noblest cypresses I have 
 ever seen. Palace after palace presented itself to our view 
 as we passed all royal palaces ; and one especially, of great 
 magnitude and somewhat in a European style, built principally 
 by the late Sultan Mahmoud, and finished by his son and 
 successor, the present despot. Almost grouped together with 
 the Seraglio, but yet towering above its highest elevations, 
 stands the most ancient mosque of Constantinople once the 
 Christian church of Santa Sophia, with its conspicuous white 
 dome and lofty minarets. Ships of all flags crowded the 
 port, and displayed a scene of grandeur and animation quite 
 indescribable. At length, the sun broke forth in full morning 
 splendour, and the almost overpowering magnificence of the 
 city - on all sides was unveiled. Surely it must be the noblest 
 position in the world for a great capital ; and one of the most 
 marvellous pictures on which the eye of man ever gazed. 
 When fairly in port, you command the whole city in one 
 circular glance. We swung round upon our anchor for a 
 time, while proper officers obtained the usual license to 
 remain ; and forthwith were carried down the Bosphorus to 
 the Lazaretto, on the Asiatic side, for the purpose of enduring 
 the infliction of quarantine ; while all along, we continued to be 
 surprised at the vast succession of palace, minaret, dome, and
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE LAZARETTO. 417 
 
 tower, intermixed with the ordinary painted residences of the 
 people. My dear friend and fellow traveller had for some time 
 shewn symptoms of an intermittent fever, which made the 
 prospect of performing quarantine doubly distressing. 
 
 We were soon deposited, with all our baggage, in the 
 Lazaretto a large prison-like building, as filthy as can 
 well be imagined. Our arrival was an amusing scene 
 Turks, Greeks, Arabs, Syrians, Jews and Christians, were 
 all impatient and clamorous to get on shore; most of them 
 carrying their few articles of convenience, baggage, &c. on 
 their backs such as mattresses, carpets, mats, and cooking 
 utensils, and hastening to secure the best berths in this 
 house of misery. Languages of all kinds were grunted and 
 screamed at the highest pitch that eagerness and anxiety 
 could give to the human voice. Happily for us we had found 
 on board a kind, intelligent companion a friend indeed in 
 Mr. Casolani, a young Maltese, of the medical profession, 
 who had been for some time in the quarantine service at 
 Beyrout. This gentleman not only spoke good English, but 
 sufficient also of Turkish to make himself fairly understood 
 an acquirement of no small importance in the Lazaretto 
 of Constantinople, where all the guardians or attendants are 
 Turks, and have no idea that there is any other language 
 spoken in the world besides their own at least worth acquiring 
 or listening to. But for the assistance of our kind young 
 friend, I fancy we should have come off but badly, amidst 
 the horrors and privations of quarantine. As it was, the 
 certainty of spending nine or ten days in that wretched 
 Lazaretto, was more than enough to break the spirits even 
 of a man in health like myself. It must have been peculiarly 
 distressing to my sick friend. 
 
 When we first reached the Lazaretto, I quite feared that 
 we should be obliged to share one poor apartment, only a few 
 yards square, with a set of untidy Turks and Arabs. After a 
 little perseverance, however, we had a room a single room 
 for all purposes, allotted to us ; but when we opened the door,
 
 418 CONSTANTINOPLE LAZARETTO. 
 
 an old grey-bearded Turk had already taken possession. 
 When civilly told that he must vacate, he became outrageously 
 angry. However, I and Mr. Casolani entered, and told him 
 plainly that he must go out; at which announcement he 
 became like a bedlamite with rage, and his eyes seemed to 
 flash fire. He made a violent rush at us, and endeavoured to 
 thrust us back vociferating at the same time, till his voice 
 became a wild scream. The poor man was evidently deranged; 
 and certainly his previous behaviour, while on board, was 
 extravagant and eccentric enough. At length, one of the 
 quarantine officers interfered, and made him go to another 
 room, stamping with rage ; and thus we were left tenants 
 of our wretched whitewashed walls and a bare unwashed floor, 
 without a single article of furniture of any kind, or even a 
 prospect of obtaining any. There was only one redeeming 
 point about our miserable habitation, and that was a superb 
 view of Constantinople to the left, and the other splendours 
 of the Bosphorus to the right all of which presented at 
 sunset one of the most surprising and lovely pictures on which 
 I ever gazed ; while the sounds of the muezzin from minaret 
 to minaret so peculiar so unlike any other utterance of the 
 human voice, sounded in our ears. Great numbers of caiques 
 the common boats of the Bosphorus, were flitting like shadows 
 across the smooth waters noiseless and graceful. "While I 
 pondered over the enchanting scene, I could almost have 
 wept to think that any thing so surpassingly lovely as 
 Constantinople should be but a sty of sensuality, vice, and 
 ignorance a filthy slave at the chariot-wheels of the false 
 prophet. But the Ottoman empire is foredoomed of God ; 
 the time of her evaporation is not far distant, and she knows it. 1 
 And what will Stambool become, when the reins of government 
 shall be in the rightful hand even that of the "King of kings, 
 and Lord of lords ?" 
 
 1 The Turks have long entertained a traditionary belief that Christianity must 
 prevail universally for a limited period of forty years. This belief has now 
 become a matter of positive and present expectation. And as the religion of the 
 Koran has fatalism as one of its distinguishing features, all hostile opposition to 
 Christianity is gradually subsiding.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE LAZARETTO. 419 
 
 We spent eight comfortless days in quarantine, amidst rats, 
 which gambolled about the room at night, and swarms of other 
 vermin which kept all hope of refreshing sleep at a distance. 
 Through the kindness of our young friend Mr. Casolani, 
 we procured at length a few articles of furniture a small 
 table, two wooden chairs, a tub for washing, &c. &c. and 
 were daily served with provisions brought down the Bosphorus 
 from Pera. My only bed was my segaddeh (Mahomniedan 
 prayer carpet), which I had brought with me from Cairo ; 
 and a carpet bag was my pillow. I do not purpose enter- 
 taining my readers with a narrative of all the disagreeables 
 attending a Turkish quarantine ; but certainly I may say that 
 the Lazaretto of Constantinople seems far more likely to 
 promote than to check the plague. Such was the effect of this 
 loathsome imprisonment upon my mind and spirits, that I 
 could neither read nor write, with any feeling of comfort, 
 for any length of time together and so the hours dragged .on 
 heavily indeed. My poor friend continued sadly invalided 
 all the time, and almost a prisoner to the room sometimes 
 worn almost beyond endurance by the endless shoutings and 
 chantings of Dervishes and other noisy varieties of the Arabian 
 family, who occupied the adjoining and surrounding rooms. 
 
 Soon after breakfast on the eighth day of captivity, we 
 were summoned from our den into a large quadrangle within 
 the walls, where, with others who had shared the same fate, 
 we were marshalled, like a file of soldiers, before the medical 
 officer of the establishment, and were one by one declared 
 free from plague, and fit to mingle with the untainted people 
 of Stambool. The hour of our release was fixed for six 
 o'clock on the following morning, and we were called upon 
 to pay one hundred and forty-five piastres for the luxury 
 of imprisonment. We were then permitted to resume the 
 possession of our baggage, the greater part of which had been 
 taken from us on our arrival, for the purpose of disinfection 
 if tainted ; and while we went to the storehouse to claim it, 
 our room was fumigated by burning certain disagreeable drugs, 
 which left for a long time an offensive odour behind. The
 
 420 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Lazaretto seemed quite alive with the proceedings of the 
 day; and most countenances brightened at the prospect 
 of emancipation. 
 
 On the following morning, all was in readiness for our 
 departure ; and we were invited to pay a visit of ceremony 
 to the Bey or Governor of the quarantine establishment. We 
 accordingly mounted the stairs of a poor dirty habitation, and 
 were immediately ushered by Turkish attendants in waiting, 
 into a pleasant room, with the usual projecting latticed 
 window, overlooking the Bosphorus, and commanding a noble 
 view especially to the right, looking to the point where 
 the smooth waters flow onwards majestically to the Black 
 Sea. In his appearance, the Bey was half Turk half Frank, 
 and received us, squatting on his dewan, with civility and 
 courtesy. The visit, as usual, resolved itself into pipes and 
 coffee and so passed off in vapour. We turned our back 
 on the Lazaretto as soon as possible, and stepped on board 
 our light caique, the first stroke of whose oars spake gaily 
 of liberty to the captives. About an hour's sharp pulling 
 brought us to Pera the Frank quarter of Constantinople ; 
 and soon we found ourselves comfortably housed at the 
 European hotel of Madame Giusippini Vitali to whom we 
 had been recommended by our young Maltese friend. 
 
 Once the traveller sets his foot on shore at Constantinople, 
 his first impression of the city is sadly interfered with. Its 
 filth and habitual untidiness present themselves at every 
 turn. But still Constantinople opened to us at once a fresh 
 page in the history of man another phase of the endless 
 variety of the human family, in which may be readily traced 
 the present tone and character of the Turkish mind. The 
 impression constantly forced upon me, was that of a people 
 just resolving to make shift with things as they are, upon 
 the conviction that their end is not far distant. There is an 
 air of sadness and hopelessness intermingled with all that 
 looks like stir and activity and enterprise. The national 
 heart beats slowly ; and there is every thing in the spirit,
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 421 
 
 even of the modern form of despotism, to check a healthful 
 development of the resources of national mind. The Ottoman 
 empire is stagnant; and its poisonous malaria hangs over 
 Stambool. 
 
 Formerly, Christians were never allowed on any pretence 
 to ride through the streets of Constantinople, or any other 
 Turkish town, on horseback, or even on an ass ; and that for 
 two reasons: first, lest they (the "infidels"} should assume 
 an equality with the faithful; and secondly, lest, being 
 elevated over Musselmans who might be walking, their shadows 
 should be projected upon the faithful, and so cause pollution 
 by an imaginary contact. All this is, however, at an end ; 
 and every body who chooses to mount a horse, mule, camel, 
 or ass, may do so. Formerly, too, every Christian was obliged, 
 on meeting a Turk, to incline his head as far as possible 
 towards the left shoulder; and if he dared to omit it, was 
 usually treated with a smart slap on the face, or other manual 
 castigation ; but this also is at an end ; a Christian may carry 
 his head as he pleases even in the presence of the Sultan 
 himself. 
 
 The Turkish carriages, chiefly used by ladies, are clumsy, 
 tawdry things, like gilded gingerbread, drawn by two horses, 
 with a driver running by the side. As you glance into them, 
 you see little beside masses, as it were, of white muslin, the 
 ugly disguise of the Turkish women. Waggons drawn by 
 oxen are also common enough in the streets, often laden with 
 fruits of various kinds, and other merchandize. The number 
 of ugly, gaunt, and hungry looking dogs which infest the 
 streets, is quite disgusting ; and at night they go about in 
 immense droves, howling and yelling hideously. The street- 
 passenger after nightfall is obliged to go armed against them 
 with a stick or dog-whip made for the purpose. While in 
 the east, I could well understand the figure used by the 
 Psalmist, in reference to the ungodly the enemies of God's 
 people : "And at evening let them return, and let them 
 make a noise like a dog, and go round about the city. Let
 
 422 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 them wander up and down for meat, and grudge if they be 
 not satisfied." 1 
 
 Immediately in front of our hotel was the ancient burial 
 ground of Constantinople an extensive forest of noble 
 cypresses, which are the customary garniture of all places 
 of sepulture. I made it a place of frequent resort for exercise. 
 The cypresses emit a delightful balmy fragrance, not unlike 
 the Cedars of Lebanon. Their deep shade was almost 
 impervious to the sun. The whole surface of the ground is 
 thickly covered with tombs and grave stones sometimes 
 beautifully wrought, and covered with inscriptions in the 
 Turkish character. Most of them have a turban carved in 
 stone on the top of an ornamented pillar. The descendants 
 of the prophet, or those who claimed to be so in their life 
 time, have the turban painted green. Many, even of the most 
 costly memorials of the dead are sadly defaced; indeed, freedom 
 from it is the exception rather than the rule. Thousands 
 upon thousands of the followers of the false prophet, slumber 
 in that vast charnel-house. They will one day know Christ 
 in his resurrection-power, though they owned him not as the 
 one Mediator between God and man. 
 
 The objects of positive interest in Constantinople are, after 
 all, really but few ; and such as they are, one looks on them 
 only as remnants of a passing pageant. We made many 
 excursions to Stambool, crossing from Pera, in one of the 
 light graceful caiques, just at the mouth of the golden horn, 
 opposite the Seraglio point. We availed ourselves of an 
 opportunity of ascending the Seraskiers' tower, for the sake 
 of the view which it affords. In our way thither, we passed 
 through the court-yard of the grand mosque of the Sultan 
 Bajazet, and were just permitted to peep within the doors 
 without being stoned. We had not obtained the costly key 
 called ajirman, and therefore could not be admitted. In the 
 court-yard were immense numbers of pigeons, for which the 
 
 i Psalm lix. 14, 15.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 423 
 
 Turks entertain a kind of religious veneration. A dove was 
 said to be the medium of spiritual communication to the false 
 prophet. The Seraskiers' tower is principally used for the 
 purpose of keeping watch over the city, in order that timely 
 notice may be given by a signal, of the breaking out of a fire 
 in the midst of the many timber-built habitations. From 
 the summit of the tower, there is a magnificent panoramic 
 view of Stambool Pera Scutari the Bosphorus the Sea 
 of Marmora the Hellespont the Mediterranean, &c. &c. 
 
 "We visited the tomb of the late Sultan Mahmoud the 
 Second, which is a handsome marble structure, with a dome, 
 and open ironwork windows, through which the exact place 
 of sepulture is seen, surmounted by the shape of a coffin, 
 overhung with rich and costly cashmere shawls, and the 
 jewelled tarbouch of the deceased. The entrance to the 
 tomb is planted with beautiful, cool looking shrubs. We 
 visited also the tombs of Selim and Mustapha, the two 
 immediate predecessors of Mahmoud. Mustapha deposed 
 and murdered Selim; and Mahmoud, in his turn, deposed and 
 murdered Mustapha. These three men were brothers the 
 sons of one father ! The fever of their murderous ambition 
 is now effectually subdued. What will be the meeting of these 
 three brothers, at the judgment of the great day ? 
 
 The Hippodrome near the mosque of Akhmet, is a spot 
 of some interest, as being the scene in which Belisarius celebrated 
 his victories in a Roman triumph, when the full blaze of his 
 glory was around him. It was an aceldama a field of blood, 
 when, in 1826, the late Sultan Mahmoud strewed it with 
 the mangled corpses of the butchered Janissaries. On that 
 awfully memorable occasion, blood ran like water in the streets 
 of Constantinople. The extermination of the Janissaries was a 
 tremendous and terrible stroke of Turkish policy ; but if we admit 
 that human policy could justify while it demanded such a blow, 
 the necessity for it is not to be questioned. The Hippodrome 
 is a large open space, or oblong square ; and in the middle, is 
 a fine obelisk, said to have been transported by the Emperor
 
 424 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 Theodosius, from Egypt. It is as fresh and perfect in its 
 hieroglyphical inscriptions as if it were the work of the last age. 
 Near the obelisk, is a curious bronze pillar, wrought in the 
 form of three intertwined serpents. It is said to have been 
 brought from Delphi, and to have borne the golden tripod 
 consecrated to Apollo, after the defeat of Xerxes. Not far 
 distant is the celebrated pillar of Constantine, bound round 
 with iron bands to hold it together. It is of porphyry, 
 surmounted by a white marble capital, and surrounded at 
 intervals with wreaths sculptured in relief but all much 
 defaced. It has been preserved with great care ; and even 
 now, is a fine remnant of an early age of Christianity. 
 
 We saw as much of the Seraglio as could be explored 
 without tijirman. It is an extensive pile of irregular building. 
 The main gate is an awful place ; and has borne witness to 
 the rivers of blood shed by Turkish tyranny. On each side 
 are arched recesses in the wall, where the heads of common 
 persons were heaped together after wholesale decapitations. 
 The heads of discarded ministers, and persons of rank and 
 condition, when called on to submit to the Sultan's sanguinary 
 will, are usually exposed on a silver dish, 1 placed upon a 
 low marble column, about eighteen inches high, and still 
 standing between the first and second gates of the Seraglio. 
 I felt half sickened as I stood on this scene of blood and 
 treachery, and suffered dark thoughts of the past to steal over 
 my mind. 
 
 Every Friday, the Sultan goes in state to some one of the 
 mosques. We took an opportunity of witnessing the procession. 
 The present Sultan, Abdul- Medjid, is a son of Mahmoud 
 the Second. On reaching Stambool, we found the people 
 all on the alert, and many forming themselves in groups 
 to await his arrival. Immense numbers of women, veiled 
 from head to foot in white muslin veils, which are so disposed 
 
 1 There was probably a custom somewhat similar in the east, long prior to the 
 existence of the Turkish dynasty. See Matthew xiv. 811.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE. 425 
 
 over the face as to give them the appearance of corpses, 
 sat on the pavement in every open part of the streets, while 
 others occupied balconies and the roofs of houses. The 
 Sultan's hebdomadal visits to the mosques afford occasions, 
 of which the people usually avail themselves, for presenting 
 petitions and memorials as he passes along. These documents 
 are courteously received by some official person in attendance 
 upon his Majesty, and are never, on any account, rejected. 
 The procession commenced with many fine horses, led by 
 grooms, richly caparisoned. Then followed several Pashas, all 
 well mounted and attended. Next came the Capitaine Pasha 
 (chief of the naval force), and other members of the council. 
 After them followed some of the Sultan's horses, attended by 
 grooms splendid animals, about fourteen and a half hands 
 high the fullest size of Turkish and Arab horses. At 
 length, surrounded by a large body of military officers on 
 foot, came the Sultan himself, mounted on a noble charger. 
 Instead of the stately and magnificent costume of Turkey, 
 the Sultan and all his suite wore common tarbouches, blue 
 surtouts, and strangely shaped trousers; and the only difference 
 between the dress of the monarch and his attendants was 
 a short military cloak worn by the former, clasped at the 
 throat with a rich jewel. The Sultan has the appearance 
 of a mere stripling, and is pale, sickly, and effeminate. His 
 countenance is placid enough but void of meaning and 
 character. He has, however, the easy bearing of a gentleman. 
 He glanced slightly from side to side as he slowly road along; 
 but not a single voice greeted him. I suppose it is not the 
 popular custom to salute the monarch as he passes. Many 
 of the national peculiarities of Turkey are giving way; amongst 
 other things, I may refer to their .gradually discarding the 
 Asiatic costume which has been worn ever since they became 
 a people. The late Sultan was the first innovator in this 
 particular, by introducing a semi-European uniform into the 
 army, the appearance of which is exceedingly mean ; and it 
 sits in the worst manner possible upon the clumsy ungain 
 figures of the fat and shapeless Turks.
 
 426 CONSTANTINOPLE DANCING DERVISHES. 
 
 Every body has heard of the "Dancing Dervishes" of 
 Constantinople. We made a point of witnessing their 
 solemnities. The Dervishes are an order of men somewhat 
 equivalent to the monks of the Greek and Roman churches. 
 There are colleges in which they are trained to their office, 
 which is of a mystic kind. I believe they sometimes pretend 
 to be the recipients of divine revelations. They may be 
 always known by their dress, the peculiarity of which consists 
 in white flowing garments, and a conically shaped hat made 
 of drab coloured felt, without a brim. The chief of the order 
 wears a small green shawl bound upon his temples, somewhat 
 like a turban, over the hat. They profess great sanctity; 
 and although Musselmans who can afford it are now becoming 
 much accustomed to the use of arakee, and sometimes even 
 wine, yet the Dervishes still profess to abstain from all. But, 
 certainly, I must affirm that I have seen an actually drunken 
 Dervish ; and that, too, on board the vessel which brought us 
 to Constantinople the only instance of intemperance I 
 remember to have seen from the time I left England till I 
 returned. Alas for England, and her abominable national 
 vice ! On one occasion during the voyage, the Dervish in 
 question dined with the Deftar Dhar of Aleppo ; and after 
 having drunk arakee beyond endurance, he behaved so 
 rudely that I called to the steward to put him out of the cabin. 
 The Deftar Dhar prevented actual expulsion by coaxing him 
 on deck; and there was an end of the matter. But judge 
 of my surprise when I attended the solemnities of the dancing 
 Dervishes, and saw the guilty lover of arakee joining with a 
 large party of his fellows in the mystic ceremonies of the day, 
 and looking as sedate and exemplary as any hypocrite could 
 desire to do. 
 
 On reaching the place of exhibition, it was necessary to be 
 provided with a pair of loose slippers, drawn over our boots, 
 to be left at the door outside ; without which there could be 
 no admittance. The Dervishes were assembled when we 
 arrived, in a large area of an octagonal shape, with a wooden 
 floor smoothly polished, round which various partitioned pews
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE DANCING DERVISHES. 427 
 
 or recesses were ranged for spectators, with a gallery above. 
 The head or chief presided, squatting on a small crimson-dyed 
 sheepskin, at the further part of the area, while the inferiors 
 first proceeded in slow and solemn march round the floor, to 
 the music of softly-sounded pipes, somewhat like badly-played 
 
 flutes; to which was occasionally added the turn-turn 
 
 turn-turn turn-turn of a small kind of tabour, struck 
 
 with the hand. After this had continued for a quarter of an 
 hour or thereabouts, the Dervishes began one by one, slowly 
 to revolve, as if on a pivot ; till at length, all were in rapid 
 motion like so many peg-tops. Each turned " on his own 
 axis," keeping up at the same time, a kind of planetary 
 motion round and about the area. Most of them had their 
 eyes closed, and appeared as if in a magnetized sleep or 
 stupor ; while the rest had their eyes partially open, but void 
 of expression, like people walking in their sleep and amused 
 by dreams. Their arms were extended in a nearly horizontal 
 line while the evolutions continued, and seemed to be rigidly 
 fixed. After having continued these exertions for upwards 
 of a quarter of an hour, they wheeled off by degrees, and 
 formed into a circle, bowing lowly at the same time to the 
 superior. After a very brief pause, these movements were 
 twice repeated ; and then the whole party lay prostrate, and 
 apparently exhausted, wrapped in the folds of their ample 
 garments, during which time, a chanted prayer was offered. 
 At a signal, they all rose at once, and one by one approached 
 the superior and kissed his hand ; then filing off to the right 
 of him, kissed the hands of each other. "With this ceremony 
 the whole affair concluded. 
 
 The remains of the ancient walls of Byzantium are objects 
 of great interest. They are on the south and south-western 
 sides of the present city, and consist of a threefold fortification, 
 each wall being lower than the other; and the inmost one the 
 highest, is surmounted by towers of, I should guess, about 
 thirty or thirty-five feet square, placed at intervals of about 
 four hundred feet. Many of these towers are much decayed, 
 and some quite in ruin. All the walls are battlemented, and
 
 428 CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 constructed for the discharge of archery. They are said to 
 be of the age of Justinian. Trees of great magnitude are 
 now growing between them; and at the foot of the outer 
 wall, in a kind of moat, are gardens well cultivated, and 
 abundantly productive. The walls now remaining extend 
 upwards of two miles terminating at the river which is 
 connected with an extensive lake, called the "sweet waters" 
 of Europe. 
 
 On our return, we rode through the Jewish and Greek 
 quarters of Constantinople; and certainly it were no easy 
 matter to describe the filthy and squalid appearance of the 
 former. The latter was a trifle better. The Jews are now 
 suffered to live without any sanctioned molestation ; and the 
 Sultan has, moreover, issued a strong proclamation in their 
 favour, on the intercession of Sir Moses Montefiore. Some 
 of them are said to have amassed great wealth; but still they 
 persist in maintaining an air of indigence, so as to attract as 
 little as possible the cruel glances of Turkish cupidity. 
 
 If a traveller would form an idea of the habits and 
 character of the population of Constantinople, he must make 
 frequent visits to the bazaars. There he will see most classes 
 passing before him full of their peculiar external nationality. 
 Some traces of the ancient stateliness of the Turkish bearing 
 are still visible ; but no one can pass a few observant days 
 among them, without feeling that there is a rapid national 
 change in progression whether for better or worse is yet to 
 be seen. European tastes and habits are acquiring great 
 ascendancy ; and should the Ottoman empire hold together a 
 few years longer, it is more than probable that the pure 
 orientalism of Turkey will glide off altogether. But is not 
 the decline of national characteristics an indication of decline 
 in far more important matters ? The heart of the Ottoman 
 empire is faint and like the botanical class of sycophant 
 plants, it clings to what is nearest, and to whatever is stronger 
 than itself. The only thing to which Turkey should now 
 cling, is that of all others which she most hates. She has
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE FATALISM. 429 
 
 risen and declined under the crescent she must fall and 
 wither under it unless she cling to the cross ; and this she 
 will not do. Her prospects, as well as her present condition, 
 are proclaimed by the voice of inspiration. Her day is not 
 far distant. She knows it. Asia knows it. Europe knows it. 
 Who does not know it ? The strong arm from the north is 
 stretched over her she sees the shadow of it, and trembles. 
 Let but the day of her decadence finally set in, and from 
 that moment will commence a moral a physical a political 
 change on the face of the earth, that shall supply and fix the 
 interpretation of many a prophecy over which men have 
 mused with speculative wonder and varied anticipation a 
 change in which returning Israel shall trace the faithfulness 
 of a long-suffering God. If Mahommedanism, in its past 
 history, present state and ultimate prospects, be speculated on 
 in any other light, or through any other medium than that 
 afforded by revelation it is a series of inexplicable phenomena. 
 View it in God's own light, and it becomes at once intelligible 
 in all its bearings. 
 
 I cannot but remark how strikingly influential, on national 
 character, the fatalism of the Koran has ever been. "Allah is 
 great Allah is good Allah has unalterably fixed every event 
 and circumstance in which his creatures are concerned. From 
 his predetermination there is no appeal against it there is no 
 help. The chain of fate binds the universe." Such is the 
 fatalism of the Koran ; and it presents a melancholy picture 
 of a right principle wrought out in error. It is an unrevealed 
 predestination. It is the " natural man's " view 1 of the 
 sovereignty of God : a view which resolves itself into the 
 notion of a mere despotism. But however erroneous however 
 opposed to that revelation of Himself as the moral governor 
 of the universe, which God has been pleased to bestow upon 
 man, yet it does actually and effectually influence the 
 followers of the false prophet; and the charge which they 
 bring against the professors of the true faith is, that their 
 
 1 1 Cor. ii. 14.
 
 430 CONSTANTINOPLE FATALISM. 
 
 avowed principles have but little bearing upon their outward 
 conduct. "You profess allegiance," they say, "to God as 
 your sovereign ; but you seek to resist him by your will. We 
 recognize his will as manifested in his acts, and submit." 
 Hence, the Turks never commit suicide under distressing 
 affliction or reverses of fortune ; such a thing is never heard 
 of. They never mourn for the dead ; they do not even 
 murmur under the heaviest burthens of existence. ''Allah is 
 great Allah is good," say they. An intelligent gentleman, 
 Mr. La Fontaine, long resident in Constantinople, and 
 familiarized with every thing Turkish, once mentioned to me 
 a remarkable instance of this. A Pasha, with whom he had 
 long lived on terms of intimacy, was possessed of an immense, 
 a princely revenue, and w r as moreover the favourite of the 
 Sultan. Under one of those sudden reverses of fortune so 
 commonly connected with Turkish despotism the result 
 of caprice or intrigue the Pasha was disgraced, and despoiled 
 of every piastre. . He was no longer the favourite of the Sultan 
 the world was no longer his friend. A few days after his 
 misfortune, instead of flinging himself into the Bosphorus, or 
 blowing out his brains with a pistol as many a nominal 
 Christian, under similar circumstances, would have done he 
 was seen, with an unperturbed countenance, selling a few 
 lemons at the corners of the bazaars of Constantinople. Mr. 
 La Fontaine saw him so employed, and actually purchased 
 some of his little stock. He inquired whether he did not 
 keenly feel this sad reverse of fortune ? " Not at all," said he. 
 "Allah is great Allah is good. He gave me all that I once 
 possessed he has taken it again ; and he had a perfect and 
 indisputable right to do so. I am well content." Mr. La 
 Fontaine assured me that this was no singular instance of the 
 powerful activity of the principles in which the Turkish mind 
 is disciplined. "Would that the pure and eternally true 
 principles which revelation has set before our christianized 
 population, were as practically influential upon national and 
 individual conduct. Alas, there is a deplorable inconsistency, 
 observable at a glance, between our doctrines and our practice 
 our acknowledged principles and their results. The fault is
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE SCUTARI BULGOOROO. 431 
 
 not in our system, but in ourselves. God himself lays down 
 the principle of moral conduct man modifies before he 
 attempts to obey; and his obedience therefore is to a law 
 of his own constructing. The result is disobedience towards 
 God. 1 
 
 We made a delightful excursion to Scutari, which lies on 
 the Asiatic side of the Bosphorus. Scutari is the ancient 
 Chrysopolis the sea-port of Chalcedon. It is now densely 
 populated, and chiefly by Turks. We crossed over from 
 Pera, in one of the caiques. The Turkish watermen are very 
 careful and dexterous ; and so they had need be. On 
 reaching the Asiatic shore, we immediately mounted some 
 hack horses which stood ready caparisoned, and proceeded 
 beyond the crowded bazaars to a finely elevated spot called 
 Bulgooroo, which commands a splendid panoramic view of the 
 Turkish Capital, and its surrounding objects of classical 
 interest and association. It is one of the most wonderful 
 scenes in the world. You forget the filth and wretchedness 
 of detail ; nor do you quite remember the political insignifi- 
 cance of the " Sublime Porte," while the eye ranges over such 
 a picture of unparalleled magnificence and natural beauty. 
 In our way towards Bulgooroo, we passed the small country 
 house in which the late Sultan Mahmoud ended his eventful, 
 miserable life. He had been removed from his favourite 
 palace below, in the hope of obtaining cooler breezes than the 
 banks of the Bosphorus afforded. Of late years he had 
 habituated himself to an enormous an almost incredible daily 
 consumption of ardent spirits ; and while enduring the pangs 
 
 1 Let us take, for instance, our blessed Redeemer's Sermon on the Mount, as 
 an expansive view of a divine legislation; let us press upon men the principles 
 there disclosed, in their exact, literal sense and application ; and there is 
 scarcely one from which they are not disposed to shrink, as if the principles 
 were too stringent too minute also as practical rules of conduct. And as to 
 the mere moralists of the world they say that the morality of the gospel is too 
 high for society as it is. And they say truly. Let society be modelled upon 
 Christian principles and the practice is easy. Turkish society is modelled upon 
 its avowed principles and we see the result.
 
 432 CONSTANTINOPLE HOWLING DERVISHES. 
 
 of his last sickness, he constantly complained that he felt as 
 if he were burning. He died in a state of horrible mental 
 excitement; and it is said that he thoroughly foresaw the 
 hopeless prospect which overhung the Ottoman empire. Life's 
 fitful dream is past : the pageant is gone : and Sultan Mahmoud 
 fills a single page of history. 
 
 From the heights of Bulgooroo a fine expanse of Asiatic 
 territory was visible ; but the traces of cultivation were few. 
 This is the case also on the European side. Perhaps Turkey 
 contains some of the finest and richest arable land in the 
 world, and capable of almost unlimited production ; but it lies 
 waste, like the territory of a hopeless and stagnant people. 
 The genius of enterprise and the spirit of industry are not 
 there. The greater part of the grain consumed in Turkey is 
 imported and that chiefly from Odessa. 
 
 While at Scutari, we had an opportunity of witnessing the 
 ceremonies of the "Howling Dervishes" a scene, the very 
 remembrance of which inclines the Christian heart to say 
 " Have respect unto the covenant, for the dark places of the 
 earth are full of the habitations of cruelty." 1 "We found 
 these strange devotees assembled in a square building, about 
 thirty feet each way, constructed very much like that in which 
 we had witnessed the solemnities of the dancing Dervishes, 
 with separate places all round, for spectators. On our arrival, 
 a large party of Dervishes were assembled, kneeling in a 
 semi-circle, while in front of them were several superior or 
 chief persons of sage and venerable appearance, ranged on a 
 kind of dewan, with mats or carpets formed of the dyed skins 
 of animals. Around the enclosure hung various instruments 
 of torture, which, until prohibited by the late Sultan, were used 
 for superstitious purposes of self-infliction. Some of them 
 were hooks with sharp points; others were heavy metallic 
 balls with iron spikes projecting from them which when 
 thrown upon the ground recoiled and inflicted a wound : and 
 
 1 Psalm Ixxiv. 20.
 
 CONSTANTINOPLE HOWLING DERVISHES. 433 
 
 there were also long pointed wires used for thrusting through 
 the cheeks of devotees. Perhaps they were after the manner 
 of those instruments used for a like purpose by the prophets 
 of Baal. 1 Besides these there were various musical instruments, 
 tambours, tom-toms, &c. Some of the Dervishes wore the 
 usual white costume ; while other persons of all ages even 
 young boys of eight or ten years old, attended in the ordinary 
 Turkish dress, and engaged, apparently as novices, in the 
 ceremonies. The exercise at which we found them, consisted 
 of chanting in a heavy monotonous tone, bowing rapidly for 
 a length of time till their foreheads almost struck the floor, 
 and then altogether swaying from side to side. Suddenly the 
 tones changed, and sounds like the barking of large dogs 
 followed. This continued for at least twenty minutes; and 
 often the musical time and vehemence of utterance and 
 action increased till all seemed ready to faint, and were, 
 apparently, quite insensible to the presence of external objects. 
 Upon a signal from the superiors they suddenly ceased ; and 
 after a little pantomimic action and changing of position, 
 resumed their exercise, but again in a totally different strain and 
 with frightful vehemence. The action seemed to be involun- 
 tary, and every fibre of their bodies appeared to be strained 
 by it. At length, in the midst of this excitement, one of them 
 appeared perfectly frantic: he fell heavily on the floor, 
 striking it with his head and hands, writhing about with hideous 
 contortions, and crying also at the utmost pitch of his voice, 
 
 "Allah ! Al lah ! Mahommed ! Mahom med .'" 
 
 Then, as if in extreme agony, he gnashed his teeth, and 
 foamed at the mouth. Several of the Dervishes came to his 
 assistance, while the rest continued their hideous exercise. 
 Scarcely had he become a little calm, when he fell into a 
 stupor ; and another broke out in the same manner. A further 
 change of ceremonies took place ; and amidst all their wild 
 extravagances, sick persons were led before the superior, who 
 touched and breathed upon them, and bestowed a benediction. 
 Others, who were too sick to attend in person, sent various 
 
 1 1 Kings xviii. 28.
 
 434 JOURNEY TO BROUSSA OLYMPUS. 
 
 garments to be breathed upon and blest. All who approached 
 the superior kissed his hand and offered him a great shew 
 of reverence. It is impossible to convey an accurate idea 
 of such a scene. We did not await the conclusion. We had 
 seen and heard enough to give us a humbling sense of the 
 power of superstition over the natural mind of man, and to 
 make us more thankful, I trust, for the possession of a pure 
 faith, upon which the slightest act of superstition, in whatever 
 form presented, is a dishonouring innovation. Superstition 
 is the very life of every religious system that is not 
 of God ; and in whatever degree man mingles superstition or 
 superstitious usage with the elements of that pure religion 
 which is of God, he invests it with the weakness and fallacy 
 of his own fallen humanity. 
 
 Before quitting Constantinople, we resolved on a visit to 
 Broussa, which is the Cheltenham or Malvern of Turkey. 
 It is on the Asiatic side. A sail of about seven hours brought 
 us to Ghemlickh a miserable Greek town, the inhabitants 
 of which make out a poor subsistence by the cultivation 
 of silkworms, and a little fishing. Its situation is, however, very 
 beautiful ; and the harbour, when viewed from the shore, has 
 the effect of a very lovely lake, bounded by lofty hills on both 
 sides. On landing, we found a great part of the inhabitants 
 loitering, smoking and sleeping. Utter indolence was the 
 order of the day. A few of the more active people 
 crowded round us, offering a very considerable choice of 
 wretched horses to convey us to Broussa. It was not difficult 
 to make a selection when all were so bad. We certainly cut 
 a grotesque figure when fairly mounted for a seven hour's 
 ride. The manes and tails of the poor horses appeared as 
 if they had never been pulled, and their coats as if they had 
 never once been groomed. The saddles were mere bundles 
 of old woollen rags and leather. As to the bridles, it would be 
 difficult to determine of what materials they were composed. 
 The road to Broussa is very agreeable, and in some parts 
 really beautiful lying over and between mountains clothed 
 with the richest oak timber and underwood. When rather
 
 OLYMPUS. 435 
 
 more than half way, a sudden turn in the road gave us a 
 full view of Olympus the noble and distinguishing feature 
 of this charming district of Asia Minor. It stood before us 
 with an air of indescribable majesty skirted below with 
 immense forest-sweeps, while its bold summit, partly white 
 with snow, towered upwards as if in the repose of conscious 
 permanence; and certainly, though the poetic fancy of a past 
 age did not invest it with divine honours, but rather selected 
 the Thessalian Mount yet Olympian Jove might have been 
 proud at finding himself enthroned on so noble and glorious 
 an elevation. As a natural object merely, without any enrich- 
 ment of either classical or scriptural associations, I do not 
 remember to have had my mind more impressed by the calm 
 grandeur of any object, than by that of Olympus. Its vastness 
 interfered not with its gracefulness. Its gracefulness waited 
 like a handmaid upon its vastness. While on the height from 
 which Olympus first became visible, we looked down into a 
 richly wooded plain, stretching along to the very base of the 
 mountain-range, at the extremity of which, overshadowed by 
 the hanging forests of the mount, and embosomed in luxuriant 
 foliage, lay Broussa, with its white domes and minarets. As 
 we advanced, the setting sun cast an empurpled lustre over 
 the sides and peaks of Olympus presenting such a vision 
 of august natural beauty as would have kept an ardent-hearted 
 painter wakeful during every hour of the night. In Broussa 
 itself there is nothing very remarkable, beyond its most 
 charming situation, and its abundance of thermal springs, 
 chiefly alkaline and sulphurine, which are beginning to 
 acquire a great degree of local celebrity. During our brief 
 sojourn, we made a partial ascent of Olympus, amidst its fine 
 forests of chesnut and oak. We could not undertake the full 
 ascent, which would have cost us twelve hours at least, and 
 the descent almost as many more. We returned to Constan- 
 tinople on the following day, by the same route we had come, 
 as the time for our departure for England was at hand. 
 
 I have nothing worth adding to the numerous and minute 
 descriptions of Constantinople already extant, and within the
 
 436 THOUGHTS OF HOME. 
 
 reach of most readers ; and I must confess, that having been 
 permitted by Divine goodness and mercy to accomplish the 
 main purpose of my journey having trodden the length and 
 breadth of Immanuel's land, and being blest with every 
 indication of restored health and energy as the head of a happy 
 family, I longed for my home as the pastor of a beloved 
 flock, I sighed for my spiritual employments ; so that, even 
 Constantinople itself became quite second-rate, in comparison 
 with the objects of my desire and anticipation. 
 
 Am I to be blamed for either the fact or the 
 
 confession ?
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 
 HOMEWAED. 
 
 HOMEWARD DANUBE ROUTE COMPANIONS BLACK SEA VARNA KUSTANJE 
 
 CZEENAVODA NIKOPOL WIDDIN SKELEGLADOVA NEW AND OLD 
 
 ORSOVA MEHADIA WALLACHIAN PEASANTRY, ETC. DRENCOVA 
 
 SEMLIN PETERWARDEN THE DANUBE PESTH AND BUDA PRESBURG 
 
 VIENNA SCHONBRUN LINZ OBER-ZELL PASSAU RAIISBON GERMAN 
 
 APPRENTICES NURENBURG FRANKFORT THE RHINE HOME. 
 
 -HOME! HOME! Surely none but they who have 
 
 wandered as strangers in strange lands, where even their 
 native language is unknown, can fully understand the charm 
 which hangs around the far-distant home. Dear countenances 
 beam upon us, and beloved voices float over the wide expanse 
 to greet us, when the imaginative faculty essays to draw 
 present solace from a recollection of the past, and a hopeful 
 anticipation of the future. I should gravely question the 
 healthiness of my affections, if all the delights of travel even 
 such as mine had power to deaden my love of home. My 
 happiness has been sought and found at home. May it be ever 
 so. A Pastor's home comprehends a great deal ; country 
 kindred flock each has its peculiar place in the wide circle ; 
 and if his heart be but right with God, there is room in 
 it for all. 
 
 "While in Palestine, I had cherished the hope of visiting 
 Athens, Corinth, and other parts of Greece, as well as the 
 principal towns and cities of northern Italy, and Switzerland. 
 From the days of my boyhood until now, those scenes
 
 438 HOMEWARD DANUBE ROUTE. 
 
 of enduring interest have been the subjects of many an eager 
 thought and desire. How all that is august in religion, 
 heart-stirring in history, and glowing in poesy, clusters 
 round their very names. Yet, while unvisited, they are, to 
 the mental perception, little more than names. I cannot so 
 positively localize my associations with them as I can those 
 which pass through my mind when Sinai, the Wilderness, 
 Jerusalem, Bethlehem, Nazareth, Jordan, Galilee, &c. are 
 mentioned. The leading facts of scripture-history are now 
 written indelibly in my memory and on my heart. My Bible 
 is, as it were, a new book to me. I do not believe it more 
 firmly, but I feel it more intensely. I cannot read it without 
 retracing my steps in all the vividness of recollection. I am 
 content with the privileges I have enjoyed ; and so I felt, 
 when, giving up the hope of Greece, we resolved on the 
 less attractive, but more direct homeward route by the 
 Danube. My narrative of this will be brief. My readers 
 will perhaps be glad to find it so, after having followed 
 me through my more delightful wanderings. It will be like 
 the last stage of a weary man's journey. 
 
 The steam navigation of the Danube is a bold undertaking; 
 and, with a few drawbacks that might be mentioned, for which 
 a thorough-paced traveller knows how to make sufficient 
 allowance it is not very disagreeable. If taken as a principal 
 excursion, it would not be destitute of interest. It brings 
 you in contact with parts of the continent of Europe, which 
 otherwise would be but little visited. 
 
 At about noon, on the first of September, we embarked at 
 the Golden Horn the magnificent harbour of Constantinople, 
 on board the Seri-Pervas, an Austrian vessel, destined to 
 convey us up the Euxine, or Black Sea, as far as Kustanjb, 
 where the arrangements for the journey were to be made. 
 Soon afterwards we received on board His Excellency 
 Count Sturmer the Austrian Internuncio to the Ottoman 
 Porte, and his Countess, who were on their way to Vienna. 
 Judging us to be Englishmen, he kindly requested a mutual
 
 DANUBE ROUTE COMPANIONS BLACK SEA. 439 
 
 acquaintance, General Jokmus, to introduce us to each, other 
 as those who were to be compagnons de voyage for so long a 
 time. All that polished manners, finely cultivated minds and 
 cordial kindness could contribute to our enjoyment, was 
 bestowed by our amiable friends during the whole of our 
 delightful intercourse; and even His Excellency's delicacy 
 of character and habit will not, I am sure, be hurt when, on 
 reading this page, he finds me telling my countrymen how 
 delightful the Danube route became, under the auspices of a 
 friendship so happily commenced. We found also a kind 
 friend, and fellow-traveller to Vienna, in Mr. La Fontaine, a 
 European merchant of Constantinople, whose attentions and 
 intelligent conversation I have often remembered with the 
 sincerest pleasure. If this page should ever meet his eye, he 
 will not doubt the cordiality with which I refer to our many 
 hours of pleasant intercourse. 
 
 As we sailed up the Bosphorus, salutes in honour of the 
 Internuncio were fired from the Turkish batteries ; and very 
 animated scenes presented themselves. On reaching Therapia, 
 the usual place of residence for European Ambassadors, salutes 
 were repeated, and the yard-arms of several vessels in port 
 were manned as he passed. From the Golden Horn, as far as 
 Therapia, the shores of the Bosphorus on both sides are very 
 lovely few scenes can be more so. Turkish villa-residences 
 abound in all directions, often surrounded and surmounted 
 by steep elevations clothed with fine oaks, interspersed with 
 towering cypresses. The backward view of Constantinople 
 is superb beyond description. Oh! that the Cross could 
 but occupy the place of the Crescent ; that the light of the 
 Gospel could but chase away the darkness of the Koran ; 
 then (7Am&'aw-Constantinople might become the noblest 
 capital in the known world. 
 
 Before the evening closed we had reached the Black Sea 
 the rough, "inhospitable sea" of the ancients the sea of Jason 
 and the golden fleece. Though there was nothing to alarm, 
 yet it gave us a tossing indication of its long established
 
 440 VARNA KUSTANJE CZERNAVODA NIKOPOL WIDDIN. 
 
 character. Next morning we cast anchor for a few hours at 
 Varna a position successfully defended for two months by 
 the Turks against the Russian army; and from which 
 eventually they repulsed the northern force. The view 
 of Varna from the sea gives but little idea of its capability 
 of defence. The houses are of wooden construction, low and 
 mean, surmounted by a few white minarets. The town is 
 surrounded by a white wall of no lofty dimensions, with loop 
 holes for musquetry. We lay near to the western coast of the 
 Black Sea as we sailed away from Varna, which in many parts 
 was bold and beautiful, and included the Pontus of Ovid, 
 and Tomi in Sarmatia, the place of the poet's exile. By six 
 o'clock next morning we were at anchor off Kiistanje. The 
 rain descended profusely ; and the Black Sea frowned darkly 
 and rolled angrily as we prepared for disembarking. With 
 some little difficulty we reached the boat, and were safely 
 landed. Kiistanjtj is a dreary miserable Bulgarian village, 
 inhabited by a few Boors ; and, but for the Danube company, 
 would not have the slightest accommodation for travellers. We 
 spent the remainder of the day and night there at a small 
 comfortless albergo; and next morning, after eight hours 
 drive over a waste uncultivated country, as dreary as can be 
 conceived, we reached Czernavoda on the shore of the Danube, 
 when we were soon fairly embarked ; and at five o'clock in 
 the afternoon, our journey commenced. During the first two 
 days the banks of the Danube reminded me, in many parts, 
 of the Nile except that I missed the occasional solitary palm 
 trees and miserable Egyptian villages. The scene at length 
 became monotonous and wearisome ; and but for the pleasant 
 society of our Austrian friends, the day might have ended in 
 a fit of the vapours. 
 
 During the first five days, we passed only two places 
 of the least importance the first was Nikopol (Nicopolis), the 
 place where the last peace between Austria and Turkey was 
 estabjished. It is a poor, though picturesque town, and 
 occupies a beautiful site. The next was Widdin, the principal 
 town of Bulgaria. We went on shore for an hour or two,
 
 THE DANUBE SKELEGLADOVA NEW AND OLD OESOVA. 441 
 
 and wandered among the bazaars, marking the semi-oriental 
 appearance and habits of the people. How poor how 
 uncleanly ! The Pasha of Widdin (Hussein Pasha), was an 
 active, instrument in the hands of the late Sultan Mahmoud, 
 for the slaughter of the Janissaries ; and was promoted to his 
 present post as the reward of his sanguinary merit. I had 
 curiosity enough to wish for a view of him, but he was absent 
 on account of an insurrection, which was then rife. "We were, 
 however, presented by Mr. La Fontaine, to his son a youth 
 of about sixteen, and also to an officer, acting as lieutenant 
 during the Pasha's absence. They were seated on a dewan, 
 in a room whose latticed windows looked out upon the 
 Danube. Soon after taking our seats, we were served as 
 usual with coffee and pipes the amber mouth-pieces of which 
 were studded with diamonds. The young Turk remained 
 silent during the visit, glancing at us now and then with 
 a look of curiosity and inquiry. The lieutenant was very 
 conversable on small matters. He expressed a vehement 
 desire to visit England, but avowed an unwillingness to travel 
 so far by water. 
 
 About noon on the ninth day, we reached Skelegladova, 
 where we were transferred to towing boats, for the purpose 
 of passing the rapids a part of the river where the steamer 
 was impracticable. The boats are made without keels, on 
 account of the great number of rocks which are sometimes 
 but slightly covered. This towing is a very irksome 
 affair, and a great trial of patience. From Skelegladova the 
 scenery, on either side, becomes really bold and beautiful, 
 something after the manner of lake-scenery in England. In 
 the evening we reached New Orsova, situated on an insular 
 promontory, northward, having in connection with it a Turkish 
 fort on the opposite side of the river. We accompanied 
 Count Sturmer on a visit of ceremony to the resident Pasha, 
 preceded by a few poor, half-starved looking soldiers, with 
 drums and fifes, and with the sound of a salute from the few 
 small cannon of the fort ringing in our ears. The echo among 
 the surrounding rocky heights was very curious. First, it
 
 442 OLD ORSOVA MEHADIA WALLACHIAN PEASANTRY. 
 
 was like a loud peal of thunder ; then it was carried off to a 
 distance, so as to be scarcely audible ; again it returned, and 
 rumbled on till the next gun was fired. In about another 
 hour we reached Old Orsova, which is the frontier town 
 of the Austrian dominions, and where we were destined 
 to perform a sort of brief quarantine. Immediately on 
 landing we were all conducted to the Lazaretto, and made 
 the best of it ; it was but for a night and part of the next 
 day. They who have endured a Turkish quarantine will 
 be little disposed to complain of an Austrian one. Thanks 
 to the kind Count Stunner for a considerable diminution 
 of disagreeables. 
 
 Early on the following morning we were waited on by certain 
 official personages, whose business it was to examine our 
 baggage, passports, &c. They performed their duty with as 
 little inconvenience to us as possible, and furnished us with 
 the proper certificates of having submitted to the quarantine 
 and other regulations. Once more in Europe, we thus 
 became again subject to the annoyance of passports and other 
 matters of police an unwelcome change for us who had 
 passed from Alexandria to Sinai from Sinai to Beersheba 
 from Beersheba almost to Dan, with as much unrestraint as 
 we are accustomed to in our own free country. Being again at 
 liberty, we enjoyed a delightful day's excursion to Mehadia 
 the Matlock (I may so call it), of Hungary ; for certainly it 
 bears great resemblance to that lovely place of resort in 
 England. Mehadia is celebrated for its mineral springs. It 
 lies just within the border of Hungary that border which 
 separates it from Wallachia. The drive from Old Orsota 
 occupied about three hours. On either side of the road, hills 
 of great boldness and beauty, richly clothed with beech, fir, 
 and other forest trees, and skirted by carefully cultivated 
 vineyards, gave a great charm to the scene ; while a small 
 branch of the Danube, winding like a thread of silver by the 
 road side, made sweet music in coursing over its rocky 
 bed. We saw great numbers of the Wallachian peasantry. 
 Their costume is picturesque, and their gait graceful. The
 
 WALLACHIAN PEASANTRY, VILLAGES, ETC. 443 
 
 women (often very comely) wear a great quantity of hair 
 braided in bands and twisted round the head, to which 
 they commonly add the ornament of natural flowers. I 
 frequently observed that the hair was of various colours ; 
 and on enquiry, was informed that a peculiar and very 
 ancient custom prevails, in compliance with which a woman 
 of the present day usually wears the hair of several genera- 
 tions mingled with her own, her mother's, grandmother's, 
 and great grandmother's which on their decease descends 
 in the way of natural inheritance. The peasantry appear 
 to be a cleanly, industrious, and happy people, and most 
 respectful in their behaviour to strangers. The Wallachian 
 villages are very picturesque in their situation, and 
 graceful in their appearance partaking frequently of the 
 Swiss character. It was delightful again to see the spires 
 of Christian churches peeping up amidst the masses of fine 
 foliage. The roofs of the houses, churches, and cottages are 
 mostly covered with wood, cut in the form of slates or tiles, 
 and fastened with nails to the rafters. The usual mode 
 of travelling, among the humbler inhabitants of Wallachia, is 
 in heavy carts or waggons rudely constructed with poles, and 
 drawn by oxen of a handsome breed. We returned to Orsova 
 by the same route, after spending a delightful and happy day ; 
 and made preparations for resuming our journey by land 
 towards Drencova a distance occupying about ten hours, 
 for the purpose of avoiding some dangerous rapids in the 
 Danube. 
 
 September eleventh. I was awakened at five o'clock this 
 morning by the sound of the early bells announcing the 
 opening of the sabbath. Their tones forcibly reminded me 
 of my own, and increased in my heart a desire which almost 
 grew into impatience, for the time when I should again 
 enjoy sabbath ordinances with my beloved flock. I was very 
 unwilling to renew my journey on the Lord's day, but it 
 could not be avoided. We started soon after eight o'clock, 
 and proceeded by a fine new road along the banks of the 
 Danube, in many parts cut out of the bold rock, and con-
 
 444 DRENCOVA SEMLIN PETERWARDEN. 
 
 structed at the sole expense of Count Zichini a large-hearted 
 and munificent Hungarian nobleman, who seeks 'in every 
 way to improve the state of his country. This celebrated 
 road is most substantially made, and finished upon the 
 principle of the macadamized roads of England. The scenery 
 of the whole route was magnificent, and often drew from us 
 all the strongest expressions of delight. On the opposite 
 side of the river are still to be seen the remains of the road 
 or causeway formed by the Emperor Trajan a work of 
 immense labour and boldness. On reaching Drencova, we 
 were compelled to croud altogether in one small hotel for the 
 night, in order to be ready for recommencing our Danube 
 navagation on the following morning. The only person who 
 was really annoyed by the inconveniences to which we were 
 exposed, was a fussy Frenchman, who seemed both by temper 
 and habits but ill calculated for roughing it up the Danube. 
 What a pity that people who cannot put up with traveller's 
 fare, do not keep quiet at home. Certainly the whole scene 
 at Drencova was very comic; and I dare say our friends 
 and fellow travellers have had many a laugh over it. The 
 adventures of travellers are often wondrously amusing; 
 and the shifts to which they are obliged to submit, especially 
 in such a country as this, make them increase their estimate 
 of the comforts and conveniences of home. 
 
 Once more upon the Danube we anchored for a few 
 hours at Semlin, and with a fine view of Belgrade, the position 
 of which is bold and commanding. The mosques and minarets 
 are sufficient proofs of its continued subjection to the Turkish 
 domination. Beyond the city of Belgrade, we could just 
 descry the white tents of a party of Servian insurgents then 
 under arms. We next touched at Peterwarden, but not so 
 as to make any particular observation ; and then for two days 
 proceeded, without any object of interest whatever, between 
 the flat shores formed by the extensive plains of Hungary. 
 But for our delightful companionship on board, it would have 
 been a dreary time indeed.
 
 THE DANUBE PESTH AND BTJDA. 445 
 
 September sixteenth. By five o'clock this morning, we' 
 reached Pesth the modern capital of Hungary, where we 
 spent the whole day agreeably enough. Pesth, and Buda 
 the ancient capital, when viewed as parts of one picture, form 
 a bold and interesting scene. Pesth has a fine esplanade to 
 the water's edge, flanked by a noble range of hotels, and 
 several public buildings upon a large scale. On the opposite 
 side of the river is Buda, occupying a commanding elevation, 
 and approached from Pesth by a bridge of boats. The highest 
 point is occupied by the palace of the Viceroy, the uncle of the 
 present Emperor of Austria. Soon after breakfast we visited 
 the cathedral. It is in very good taste. The nave is constructed 
 without the usual pillars, and supported by pillasters in the walls. 
 The choir is upheld by columns in the form of nave-pillars, 
 of dove-coloured marble, with gilt capitals. It is not separated 
 from the nave by any screen ; and its effect is lightness itself, 
 and undoubted elegance. The demeanour of the assembled 
 congregation was worthy a better form of Christianity. 
 
 There is a bold suspension bridge in process of erection 
 said to be the largest ever undertaken, for the purpose of 
 permanently connecting Pesth and Buda. It was commenced 
 about four years ago ; and by this time, I presume, the 
 foundations of the piers may be completed. The architect or 
 engineer, is Mr. Clarke, an Englishman. The estimate for this 
 spirited undertaking is said to be 300,000. While engaged 
 in examining the work. Count Sturmer presented us to 
 Count Zichini the munificent Hungarian to whom I have 
 already referred. His appearance and manners were those of a 
 thoroughly bred, intelligent man full of energy and force. 
 He conversed briefly with us in English, with perfect facility. 
 The English language is much cultivated in Hungary, and 
 English literature is highly esteemed. We afterwards walked 
 through the principal parts of the city, which gives proof 
 of being the capital of an improving country. Perhaps the 
 effect of it might be a little heightened, by its strong contrast 
 to the scenes we had so long been familiar with. Pesth is 
 well supplied with excellent shops, furnished apparently with
 
 446 THE DANUBE PRESBURG, ETC. 
 
 all the necessaries and elegancies of life. Every part of it is 
 beautifully clean, and the streets are kept in the best order. 
 It was, moreover, market day, which gave us an opportunity 
 of noticing the varieties of national costume, and of seeing the 
 fine rich produce of the country. The fruits, vegetables and 
 flowers were abundant and beautiful. I was much struck 
 with the fine breed of horses in Hungary not only those 
 used for the saddle, but for draught also. They are very 
 powerful and active, and admirably formed. 
 
 On the following morning we quitted Pesth, and again 
 committed ourselves to the steam boat and the Danube. In 
 the evening of the next day we reached Presburg then 
 Hamburg, with several other places of minor importance, 
 amidst scenery occasionally possessing considerable beauty. 
 At Presburg we spent an hour very pleasantly, chiefly in 
 exploring a fine old Church, dedicated to the Virgin, and 
 connected with a monastic establishment. There are many 
 interesting monuments and other matters about the church, 
 which is, however, grievously disfigured by statues badly 
 executed, and painted to represent the natural colour of flesh. 
 They consist of saints, angels, martyrs and of Christ himself 
 in the agony of the cross. It is quite distressing to see the 
 grossness of taste into which the mind declines, while acting 
 under the influence of a system whose fatal characteristic is 
 departure from the written word of God j and which seeks to 
 stimulate the imagination rather than to purify the heart. Let 
 but the simple "truth as it is in Jesus" take full possession 
 of the souls of those poor monks who pointed out these 
 objects to us ; let faith accomplish its perfect work and they 
 themselves would be the first to banish and account them 
 loathsome. The genuine faith of a 'true Christian needs not 
 to be propped up by painted images ; it stands firmly, without 
 a crutch of man's constructing. 
 
 "We reached Vienna on the nineteenth of September, and 
 spent a few days in visiting some of the more prominent 
 objects of that interesting capital. The ancient city is bounded
 
 VIENNA. 447 
 
 by walls, and is small in extent. Between it and the 
 suburbs is a circular plain, of six or seven hundred yards in 
 breadth, extending all round the city, on which none of the 
 modern additions have been erected. This precaution has 
 no doubt added to the salubrity of the place. In some parts 
 it is planted, and has a very agreeable effect. The cathedral 
 is a fine specimen of the style of Gothic, usually denominated 
 " florid." The spire is said to be four hundred and forty-seven 
 feet high extremely beautiful; and the citizens are justly 
 proud of it. The archiepiscopal residence a noble-fronted 
 structure, is immediately connected with the cathedral. The 
 internal enrichments of the church are abundant, but do 
 not distract the attention. There is, however, extravagantly 
 bad taste displayed in the erection of modern, tawdry, gilt 
 altars, with the most absurd decorations, against the nave 
 pillars. The high altar is superbly enriched with splendidly 
 chased silver furniture. In the eastern window is some 
 magnificent old stained glass. A very sombre air pervades the 
 whole edifice; and upon minds suffering themselves to be 
 influenced by externals, its effect must be very great. 
 
 The arsenal and armoury are extensive ; and, in addition 
 to the usual matters found in such establishments, contain 
 many interesting objects trophies and relics connected with 
 the history of Europe, which I cannot stay to particularize ; 
 but I must not omit to mention that in one of the quadrangles 
 are preserved the vast massive chains of iron, forged by the 
 Turks, with which they hoped to impede the navigation 
 of the Danube, when they besieged the city, in 1683, and 
 were effectually and finally repulsed by John Sobieski, King 
 of Poland. 
 
 We visited the Church of the Augustines, for the sake, 
 chiefly, of examining a deservedly celebrated work of Canova, 
 a tomb in memory of Maria Christina, daughter of Francis I. 
 and wife of Albert Duke of Teschen. Its only inscription 
 is " Uxori optima, Albertus" I think I have never before 
 found my mind so affected by sculpture of the funereal
 
 448 VIENNA. 
 
 kind, against which, in general, I have some sort of objection. 
 This work is full of the rich genius of Canova. The back- 
 ground of the composition represents a pyramidal tomb, the 
 door of which is open. There is a procession approaching it, 
 the figures of which seem to breathe. The foremost have 
 advanced quite to the door. The principal one is Virtue (a 
 lovely female figure, habited in full, flowing drapery), bearing 
 an urn, overhung with garlands, towards which her head 
 is bowed. On either side are two other delicate female 
 forms, bearing torches. Behind these, are three figures, the 
 foremost of which is Benevolence a charming female figure, 
 leading a graceful child and a blind old man. On the other 
 side of the open entrance is a slumbering lion, upon whose 
 shaggy sides, a winged male form, of the most exquisite 
 modelling, reposes. Like every other beautiful triumph 
 of genius, it must be seen to be understood. The impression 
 of it is still vivid in my memory. After enjoying this delightful 
 production, we were conducted to a small iron-doored 
 chamber, or cell, in which were ranged, in small silver urns 
 placed in rows, the hearts of the sovereigns and other mem- 
 bers of the imperial families, from Maximilian downwards. 
 Amongst the most recently deposited, was the heart of the 
 son of Napoleon the young Duke of Reichstadt. Alas ! how 
 cold and motionless are those hearts which once throbbed 
 with ambition, and swelled with human pride and daring ! 
 That small chilly cell, contained as it were, a little world 
 of hearts what a breadth of history do they cover ! 
 
 In the Convent of the Capuchins, there is an extensive 
 crypt, in which are deposited the other remains of members 
 of the imperial family most of them in sarcophagi of the 
 most splendid kind, in admirable taste, and of costly material 
 and workmanship. They are, for the most part, in bronze, 
 finely cast or sculptured in relief, with enrichments in silver, 
 beautifully chased. Some of the pannels, in basso-relievo, 
 may be spoken of as among the finest specimens of the art. I 
 have often thought it would be desirable for some skilful 
 British artist to make elaborate drawings or engravings
 
 SCHONBRUN, ETC. 449 
 
 of these beautiful objects, that the public at home might, in 
 some degree, share the enjoyment of such an exhibition. But 
 after all that can be said that crypt in the Convent of the 
 Capuchins is rife with the dishonours of death, though the 
 rich creations of genius live and nourish there untouched, 
 untainted by the worm. 
 
 We took an opportunity of visiting Schonbriin, one of the 
 royal palaces, between three and four miles distant from the 
 city. The site of it is good ; and was originally selected by 
 the Emperor Maximilian. It was occupied by Napoleon 
 while the French troops held possession of Vienna. It is 
 approached through a straight avenue, of rather more than a 
 quarter of a mile in length. The structure itself forms three 
 sides of a quadrangle; the fourth consists of gates, lodges, 
 &c. The elevation is somewhat deficient in effect; and its 
 height is disproportioned to its length. It is in a kind 
 of Italian style. The Emperor happened to be in residence 
 at the time of our visit, so that we were prevented exploring 
 the interior. I am, at the best, but a poor visitor of show- 
 palaces, either at home or abroad so the disappointment 
 was but little. "We spent a considerable time in the 
 grounds, the nearer parts of which are laid out in the old 
 Italian style formally cut and clipped, and adorned with 
 statues, fountains, and arches. In several large reservoirs 
 were thousands of gold and silver fish, so tame that they 
 came readily to be fed when we threw leaves or a few 
 blades of grass upon the surface. Beyond the formal gardens 
 are extensive plantations of fine oaks and beech, growing 
 very luxuriantly. Schonbriin is altogether a delightful place 
 of residence, and worthy the attention of a traveller. 
 
 The gallery of the Prince Esterhazy is an object of great 
 interest less, perhaps, to me than to many others; for, though 
 delighting in pictures, my mind is wearied and disturbed by 
 large collections. I was particularly charmed with some fine 
 specimens of the works of Wouverman, Claude, Both, Canalletti, 
 Rembrant, Reuysdael, P. Potter, &c. There are also many
 
 450 VIENNA LINZ OBER-ZELL. 
 
 pictures of the Spanish school, amongst which the Murillos are 
 held in high esteem. There is a noble work of Christ before 
 Pilate. It is Eembrant's. The moment selected by the 
 painter, is that in which Pilate washed his hands, declaring 
 that he found no fault in Him. The figure of Christ is totally 
 void of that affectation so common in many modern masters, 
 aye, and in some ancients, too ; and it is subdued quiet 
 humble abased. Pilate's countenance, especially in the eyes 
 and lips, is deeply expressive of the state of his mind at the 
 moment. The figures in this fine picture are about half-size. 
 
 The general impression left on my mind by the city of 
 Vienna, after this brief visit in passing, is extremely agreeable. 
 It presents far less of what is usually offensive in Roman 
 Catholic countries, than many principal cities and towns 
 which I have visited. The churches and church porches are 
 not infested by such swarms of mendicants as I observed in 
 France, Rome, and Naples ; indeed, mendicity scarcely seems 
 to exist ; and even in the suburbs, where less wealthy classes 
 are to be sought for, I saw but little that gave me an idea 
 of prevalent poverty. Cleanliness and decency characterize the 
 city and its inhabitants, coupled with an external appearance 
 of good order. 
 
 We quitted Vienna on the twenty-third of September, and 
 were again on the Danube, in our way to Linz, which we 
 reached in the afternoon of the following day. The town is 
 situate on both sides of the river, and is beautifully picturesque. 
 It has the external indications of wealth and prosperity. From 
 the ramparts we commanded a fine view of the course of the 
 Danube and its surrounding scenery. On the following 
 morning, a dense fog, which obscured the course of the river, 
 delayed us for several hours. At length, we proceeded, 
 amidst lovely scenes equalling any thing upon the Rhine; 
 but in the evening, the fog again became so thick that it was 
 unsafe to proceed. We anchored, therefore, at Ober-zett, 
 an inconsiderable town of Bavaria. It was difficult for us all 
 to obtain tolerable accommodations for the night. However,
 
 OBER-ZELL PASSAU RATISBON. 451 
 
 like travellers who had roughed it for so many months, we 
 made ourselves as content as we could amidst the boorish 
 inmates of a poor Bavarian hotel where nothing but German 
 is eaten, drunk and spoken. A German bed is an amusing 
 contrivance. It consists of a mattrass below, with a pile 
 of downy pillows for the head, packed together in a kind 
 of wooden box ; and the only covering is an immense pillow, the 
 size of the mattrass, stuffed with down, seven or eight inches 
 thick. It is no pleasant thing, in the middle of the night, to 
 wake and find this curious invention, without any means 
 of fixing it, fairly spread upon the floor, or only covering the 
 sleeper crosswise. At Ober-zell we could have only one 
 room, with four of these strange beds placed in a row. In 
 order to secure this room to ourselves, we expressed our 
 intention to be the tenants, if not occupiers of all the beds ; 
 and it seemed quite unintelligible to the Bavarian chamber- 
 maid, how two Englishmen could possibly want four beds. 
 However, our will became law, and we kept uninterrupted 
 possession of our quarters. 
 
 At five o'clock on the following morning we re-embarked, 
 and after a delightful passage of three hours, reached Passau ; 
 from whence our route lay to Ratisbon. "We now took leave 
 of the Danube ; and certainly though many interesting objects 
 presented themselves to our notice, I have but little desire 
 to retrace my steps. Our journey up to Passau had cost 
 us twenty-six days, accompanied by all the inconveniences 
 of small and ill-adjusted steamers. We were now in Bavaria, 
 of which Passau is a rather interesting ancient town. It is 
 the capital of an episcopal see. The cathedral is deemed one 
 of the finest in Germany. It was originally Gothic, but has 
 been remodelled after St. Peter's, at Rome. I cannot say 
 much for the taste that suggested the change. From Passau 
 we took a carriage towards Ratisbon, resting in the evening 
 at Pattsling a considerable village, with but rude accom- 
 modation; and then onwards next day, till we reached 
 Ratisbon at about six in the evening. The roads of Bavaria 
 are excellent ; and the country is exceedingly well cultivated.
 
 452 GERMAN APPRENTICES RATISBOX. 
 
 The peasantry appear healthy and industrious, and present no 
 indications of squalid poverty. A remarkable custom prevails 
 among the apprentices. For the purpose of being instructed 
 in their respective trades and occupations, they go from town 
 to town, seeking employment among various masters. The 
 most respectable do this, as well as the humbler; and they 
 are not permitted to exercise their various callings on their 
 own account, till they have had the fullest experience in 
 this way. They make their progress on foot, or get a chance 
 lift in an empty carriage ; and without assuming the air 
 of mendicants, ask assistance of travellers by the way. It is a 
 custom well understood in the country, and there is no sense 
 of degradation connected with it. "We overtook many 
 apprentices in our way, some of whom looked like clever and 
 intelligent lads. The Bavarians are good farmers; and the 
 towns and smaller villages have about them an air of -comfort 
 and respectability. The children are commonly fine specimens 
 of healthiness and natural beauty. 
 
 Ratisbon contains little to fix the attention of the traveller 
 besides the cathedral, which is a beautiful specimen of florid 
 Gothic with very few of the modern disfigurements to which 
 so many fine ecclesiastical structures on the Continent have 
 been subjected. The general effect is sombre and quietly 
 graceful, neither too rich in ornament, nor too poor. The 
 colour of the stone has been defaced by time. The groined 
 roof has been spoiled by the common disfigurement of 
 whitewash, for the purpose of sprinkling over it a number 
 of gilded stars. If the roof could be restored, the whole effect 
 would be all that could be desired. The exterior has been 
 left unfinished. Spires were evidently intended to be erected 
 upon the towers over the western entrance, which are now 
 only capped with tiles in a pyramidal form. The greater 
 number of the inhabitants of Ratisbon are protestants. 
 
 Pursuing our journey by night, we reached Nurcnburg 
 early on the morning of the thirtieth of September. It is a 
 Lutheran town, and remarkable for its fine cathedral, which
 
 NURENBURG FRANKFORT. 453 
 
 contains some admirable specimens of the works of Albert 
 Durer, in excellent preservation. The popish decorations 
 still remain untouched. The inhabitants of Nurenburg are 
 considerable mechanics in iron, steel, ivory, wood, and 
 alabaster. There is also a great manufactory of toys, usually 
 called Dutch toys. It has the appearance of a wealthy, ancient 
 place. The roofs of the houses are curiously constructed. 
 They are very steep, and have several rows of windows 
 built in them. From Nurenburg we passed on rapidly, 
 by night, through Wurtzburg to Frankfort, where we arrived 
 in the afternoon, and there fixed ourselves for a few days at 
 the Hotel de Russie a truly comfortable place of sojourn, 
 after all we had put up with since quitting Constantinople. 
 
 Frankfort has an entirely modern aspect; and the extremely 
 flat regularity and whiteness of its buildings becomes wearisome 
 to the eye. It is beautifully clean, and has the appearance 
 of a prosperous town. The cathedral is very poor indeed. 
 The public library is a delightful place of resort. In the 
 entrance hall is a noble statue of Goethe. It is indeed 
 an admirable work, and worthy of its great subject. There 
 is a grandeur of repose about it, quite indescribable. Every 
 true Protestant who visits the library of Frankfort, gazes 
 with delight upon the autographs of those men of God 
 mighty -hearted Luther, and gentle Melancthon the spiritual 
 champions of an iron age, for whom and for whose achieve- 
 ments we praise God in the same degree in which we love 
 our Bibles, and live upon the unmingled, unadulterated truth 
 of God " the truth as it is in Jesus." Though the hands 
 that traced those names are dust, yet their record is written 
 on high, and they are embalmed in the memory of the people 
 of God. Even the rude shoe of Luther, preserved with 
 veneration, and shewn in the library, is an object from which 
 one cannot turn away without many a thought directed 
 towards him who trod the difficult way of duty in the firm 
 majesty of truth though all that was terrible in earthly 
 domination and spiritual despotism sought to frown him off 
 from his integrity of purpose.
 
 454 THE RHINE HOME. 
 
 Frankfort, and the adjacent parts of Germany, arc now so 
 generally known and so frequently visited by the English, 
 that English faces and English sounds prevail in every part. 
 I felt all the time as if I were on the very boundaries of home. 
 If the reader be half as impatient for the end of my narrative, 
 as I was for home, he will be disposed to skip over the 
 remainder of this chapter, and sympathize with me in the 
 concluding one. 
 
 Our route lay down the Rhine, of which so much has been 
 said and sung and sketched and painted, that, really, I have 
 nothing to tell, further than that we reached Mayence by 
 the short railroad, and steamed down the Rhine to Cologne, 
 of which expedition every drawing-room table abounds with 
 details, graphic and literary. From Cologne to Aix-la-Chapelle 
 was but a railroad step ; and from thence to Liege, by diligence, 
 a dreary drag of eight hours. Then came Courtray Ypres 
 and last of all, Calais, and the far-famed hotel of "Monsieur 
 Dessin" our final continental resting place ; and then, next 
 morning, midway in the British Channel, looking right ahead 
 What are those white cliffs, and that little sparkling town 
 below, and those masts bearing a well-known flag ? 
 
 Oh joy ! It is Dover England my father-land : the 
 
 home of my family of my flock MY OWN BELOVED HOME ! 
 
 A brief space and the anchor was cast. With a calm 
 and thankful spirit I again stood on the venerated shores 
 of highly-gifted England a better man, I trust; if not, at 
 least I think a wiser.
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 FINAL. 
 
 TlIE GROWING INTEREST ABOUT THE HOLY LAND INFERENCES FULFILLED 
 AND UNFULFILLED PROPHECY CONCLUSION. 
 
 ONCE more at home, and with the familiar and beloved objects 
 and pursuits of home around me, I sometimes find it difficult 
 to muse upon the substance of my narrative, otherwise than 
 as the recollection of a bright vision that has past away for 
 ever. But if I have fulfilled my intention, there will be 
 deposited in the mind of the intelligent reader, a deep an 
 abiding sense of reality, which will gain strength as he dwells 
 upon the records of inspiration ; for he will go on steadily 
 filling up the outlines of thought which I have rapidly 
 sketched out before him. The reader who does not love his 
 Bible, will doubtless deem mine a dull narrative indeed to 
 him it must be so ; for certainly all the interest with which it 
 may be invested is dependant upon Holy Scripture, and the 
 previous deposit of its wondrous contents in the heart. 
 
 It is a remarkable feature of the present times, that there 
 should be an almost universal an unprecedented interest felt 
 and manifested in all that relates to the Holy Land. The 
 most intellectual and gifted are never weary of inquiring ; and 
 the humblest artizan will suspend his labour that he may 
 listen. Artists love to portray its venerable scenes ; and all
 
 456 THE GROWING INTEREST ABOUT THE HOLY LAND. 
 
 men gaze on them with wonder and delight, Moreover, those 
 who possess the means the Jew and the Gentile, the Poet 
 and the Philosopher, the Scholar and the Divine the subjects 
 of most kingdoms, the dwellers in distant climes are daily 
 bending their steps to the land of scripture-history ; and soon, 
 I imagine, the route will become as familiar as the "grand 
 tour" has been for the last half century. All this increase 
 of interest is the growth of but few years. Time was, when 
 only a few bold, enthusiastic and daring spirits went forth as 
 pioneers, braving danger and enduring privation for the sake 
 of pushing their inquiries to the utmost. Some of these were 
 Christian one, an infidel ; but all have in their way helped 
 to open more widely the volume of inspiration ; and even 
 Volncy himself the infidel Volney, has, in the purpose 
 of God, been remarkably instrumental to the manifestation 
 of truths which he daringly sought to assail. And now, looking 
 to the labours of later years, we find a mass of authentic 
 information placed on record, which, by evidencing the literal 
 and exact fulfilment of prophecy in its minutest particulars, 
 serves to define the ground on which we are to stand while 
 seeking out the interpretation of prophecy yet to be fulfilled. 
 And it is not easy to suppose that any important addition can 
 be made except, it may be, in reference to geological science, 
 and some few other particulars of the physical condition of the 
 Holy Land. 
 
 And it is to be borne in mind that there has been no spirit 
 of mere worldly enterprize at work in this movement. Men 
 have not gone out, and are not now doing so, for the purpose 
 of securing temporal interests and just stumbling upon truth 
 by the way ; far otherwise. Most candid-minded men have 
 gone with their Bibles in their hands, in the simple hope 
 of understanding more exactly what the Bible contains. In 
 the days of the crusades, Palestine was thronged by ardent- 
 spirited men; but they went for a different end. They 
 hoped to earn an earthly honour and a glorious name, in 
 what they deemed a spiritual chivalry. They went with a
 
 INFERENCES, ETC. 457 
 
 closed Bible and an unsheathed sword. The sword at length 
 returned to its scabbard and rusted there the Bible remained 
 clasped. Our earliest views of Palestine are, therefore, little 
 better than fabulous dreamings. But, with the singleness 
 of purpose which has characterized the men of a later day, we 
 see at once an important result connected ; and I will venture 
 to affirm that the whole Bible is now more fully and simply 
 apprehended than in any previous age of the world. 
 
 From these matters of fact, I think two things are plainly 
 deducible, from which we may perhaps humbly infer somewhat 
 of the intention of the Divine mind. First, that the Bible, as 
 a revelation from God, has been steadily assuming its true 
 position in the estimation of men, and that the more thoughtful 
 are rapidly corning to the conclusion that the fate and fortunes 
 of kingdoms and people are positively involved in the reception 
 or rejection of Bible-truth. Secondly, that there is felt to be 
 a peculiar and positive relation between the present state 
 and final prospects of God's ancient people Israel, and the 
 announcements of His unchangeable word concerning them ; 
 and along with this, a growing interest, as universal as the 
 circulation of the Bible, in whatever concerns the Jewish 
 people so long despised and accounted vile and hopeless. 
 
 Now if the intention of the Divine mind be really, in 
 anywise, indicated by these things, may we not fairly inquire 
 to what end it is probably directed ? And may we not soon 
 and safely arrive at the conclusion, that it is towards a 
 preparation of the church for a signal fulfilment of prophecy ? 
 I am inclined to suppose that the preparation of the church 
 will be, not the result of any marvellous or miraculous means, 
 but rather the consequence of a series of events, and of a 
 course of procedure which, upon a superficial view, will 
 seem to be only the result of a progressive development 
 of mind and mental perception ; but which will really have the 
 whole purpose of God involved in it. Clear views of prophecy 
 will at length be extensively embraced. The things prophecied 
 will be deemed desirable in the highest degree ; and next they
 
 458 FULFILLED AND UNFULFILLED PROPHECY. 
 
 will appear plainly practicable ; and as this state of mind in 
 the church progresses, she will be so much the more prepared 
 for the fulfilment. With every fresh ray of Bible-light 
 imparted by the Holy Spirit to a waiting, prayerful church, 
 some direct purpose of God will, doubtless, be connected. 
 All the confidence which the church enjoys stands upon 
 prophecies fulfilled, and promises made good. Every thing 
 for which she hopes fervently and waits humbly is announced 
 in prophecy and secured by promise in prophecy, yet to be 
 opened in promise yet to be realized. As the church's 
 view of unfulfilled prophecy and promise becomes clearer, 
 her hope will become brighter, and she will wait with a more 
 patient humility alive with confiding expectation. It is not, 
 then, out of a spirit of mere curiosity that thoughtful men are 
 exploring the Holy Land, and investigating things as they are, 
 in the light of revelation. 
 
 And here we may ask To what does the great bulk 
 of unfulfilled prophecy and promise point? We answer 
 mainly to two august events, involving many subordinate 
 ones. Those events are the second coming and kingdom 
 of Messiah, and the final restoration of Israel. I do not here 
 venture any opinions as to the mode or circumstantials 
 of either; but I only direct attention to them as events divinely 
 announced, and therefore to be expected ; and moreover, as 
 events which I deem to be positively connected with each 
 other in the divine purpose. Now then, let the Church be 
 in her proper attitude of expectation, and she will be steadily 
 preparing herself for the events. The germ, so to speak, 
 of that preparation is I think easily traceable in the movement 
 to which I have referred ; and I am inclined to believe that 
 it will not be long very long, ere the scriptural position and 
 prospects of the Jews will be extensively recognized, and the 
 way God's way, prepared for their final restoration. I 
 confess I cannot account for the unparalleled interest which 
 the very name of the Holy Land now so generally awakens 
 in the world, upon any principles but those which I have 
 glanced at in these pages. But I must not dwell upon the
 
 CONCLUSION. 459 
 
 subject here. It is too vast both in its nature and bearings ; 
 and besides, I do hope I may have grace and strength to mature 
 my views in the light of scripture and careful observation, 
 so as to treat them with some degree of clearness in a 
 volume supplementary to this. None but those, who like 
 myself, have trodden "Immanuel's land," and tracked Israel 
 in their wanderings through "the great and terrible wilder- 
 ness," can fully understand the emotion with which from time 
 to time I muse upon their past history and future prospects. 
 Would that I could impart it to those who may glance upon 
 these pages. But I do entertain a hope, that the growing 
 interest will ere long become so deep and so expansive, that 
 from all Christendom there shall go forth the cry " Lord, 
 wilt thou at this time restore the kingdom to Israel ?" the 
 kingdom that shall be glorious under the royal sceptre of the 
 SEED of David. 
 
 For my own part, I have learnt many a lesson amidst the 
 toils of travel, which I never could have acquired so well 
 even in the quietest retirement of literary leisure, had such 
 been my lot. My heavenly Father who saw good to suspend 
 my pastoral exertions by enfeebled health, was graciously 
 providing for my heart's refreshment and for my soul's nourish- 
 ment in the truth. If I have not laid bare to my readers' 
 perception the whole result of my experience, it is solely 
 because there are parts of it which lie too deep for verbal 
 expression, and which have become blended with my being, 
 rather than reflected on my mind. 
 
 I look back upon the past with wonder, delight and 
 gratitude. I shall never cease to do so while my memory 
 lasts. Perhaps the retrospection has afforded me far deeper 
 enjoyment amidst the effort of authorship, than any can expect 
 to draw from a perusal of these pages. In the pointed language 
 of an elder traveller in the same scenes, 1 I may add "The parts 
 I speak of are the most renowned countries and kingdoms ; 
 
 1 George Sandys, 1632.
 
 400 CONCLUSION. 
 
 once the scats of most glorious and triumphant empires ; the 
 theatres of valour and hcroical actions ; the soils enriched 
 with all earthly felicities ; the places where nature hath 
 produced her wonderful works ; where arts and sciences have 
 been invented and perfected ; where wisdom, virtue, policy, 
 and civility have been planted and have flourished; and 
 lastly, where God himself did place his own commonwealth, 
 gave laws and oracles, inspired his prophets, sent angels to 
 converse with men above all, where the Son of God descended 
 to become man ; where he honoured the earth with his 
 beautiful steps, wrought the work of our redemption, and 
 ascended into glory: which countries, once so glorious, and 
 famous for their happy estate, are now through vice and 
 ingratitude, become the most deplored spectacles of extreme 
 misery the wild beasts of mankind having broken in upon 
 them, and rooted out all civility, and the pride of a stern and 
 barbarous tyrant possessing the thrones of ancient and just 
 dominion ; who, aiming only at the height of greatness and 
 sensuality, hath in tract of time reduced so great and goodly 
 a part of the world to that lamentable distress and servitude, 
 under which, to the astonishment of the understanding 
 beholders, it now faints and groaneth. Those rich lands at 
 this present remain waste and overgrown with bushes, 
 receptacles of wild beasts, of thieves, and murderers ; large 
 territories dispeopled, or thinly inhabited ; goodly cities made 
 desolate; sumptuous buildings become ruins; glorious temples 
 either subverted or prostituted to impiety true religion 
 discountenanced and oppressed ; all nobility extinguished ; 
 no light of learning permitted, nor virtue cherished ; violence 
 and rapine insulting over all and leaving no security save to 
 an abject mind, and unlocked on poverty ; which calamities 
 of theirs so great and deserved, are to the rest of the world 
 
 as threatening instructions thence to draw a right image 
 
 of the frailty of man, the mutability of whatsoever is worldly; 
 and assurance that as there is nothing unchangeable saving 
 God, so nothing stable tyut by his grace and protection."
 
 CONCLUSION. 461 
 
 And now my pilgrimage is ended my labour finished. 
 Henceforth I will be a pilgrim to the Heavenly Canaan and 
 the New Jerusalem; and I will go forth, leaning on the 
 cross of my adorable Redeemer, and looking to His righteous- 
 ness alone for my place in the kingdom, and my share in the 
 coming glory. 
 
 Oh ! that the Pilgrim-Pastor and a goodly growing Flock 
 may journey onward in faith and love together, singing 
 "UNTO HIM THAT LOVED us, AND WASHED us FROM OUR 
 
 SINS IN HIS OWN BLOOD, AND HATH MADE US KINGS AND 
 PRIESTS UNTO GOD AND HIS FATHER; TO HlM BE GLORY 
 AND DOMINION, FOR EVER AND EVER! AMEN." 
 
 PRINTED DY THOMAS SIMPSON, MARKET-PLACE, WOLVERHAMPTON.
 
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