aim^M & Cl f 
 
THE LIBRARY 
 
 OF 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY 
 
 OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 PRESENTED BY 
 
 PROF. CHARLES A. KOFOID AND 
 
 MRS. PRUDENCE W. KOFOID 
 
L^1 
 

 A TEN DAYS' TRIP 
 
 INTO THE 
 
 INTERIOR OF JAPAN. 
 
 sl^ k . Vk^ 
 

 A TEN DAYS' TRIP INTO THE INTERIOR 
 OF JAPAN. 
 
 It was a hot, steamy evening in the middle of our Japan 
 summer. In the company of a friend, I was discussing, 
 in a lazy, listless sort of way, as we lay stretched at full 
 length in the cool verandah of our comfortable bungalow 
 at Yokohama, the current " gup " of the place, the badness 
 of trade, the non-appearance of the French mail steamer 
 "Volga," now nearly six days overdue, and the latest 
 piece of scandal. 
 
 " By Jove 1 how Jolly and cool it must be on the top of 
 Fuji this sort of weather. No mosquitoes there," I said, 
 bringing down my hand with a ferocious slap upon my 
 devoted head, with the intent of slaying two of the 
 monsters, that were at that instant drinking deep of my 
 heart's best blood. 
 
 A 2 
 
 M313383 
 
** And no mails either to render our wretched lives 
 more miserable," said my friend, reminded of the exist- 
 ence of such things by the deep boom of the signal-gun 
 from '* The Tiptree" hulk, and the flight of the rocket in 
 the bay, portending the arrival of the English mail. 
 
 '*I say, Basil, what do you say to a pilgrimage to 
 Fusiyama?" said I, pointing to the grand old mountain, 
 the moon at the moment lighting up his hoary head, 
 whitened with the snows of a thousand years. 
 
 *' The very thing of things ! " cried he, vociferously. 
 ** I'm with you, old man ! When shall we start ? — what 
 shall we take ? — how many coolies ? My boy is the fellow 
 for a trip up country ; he is a perfect Soyer, and at an 
 omelette is second to none ! " ^ 
 
 ** Let us take * nothing and nobody,' " I said ; '* we will 
 go a la Japonaisey with only a flannel change and a brush 
 and comb." 
 
 My friend looked solemn. " What, live for ten days on 
 Japanese * chow-chow ' ? Ha! ha! ha! I should like to 
 see the Banker do that." 
 
 " I*m heartily sick of greasy entrees and made dishes 
 manufactured by second-rate Chinese cooks," said I. 
 '' Besides, after a thirty-mile walk, I'll warrant your thirst 
 is sufficiently sharpened to enjoy a dish of rice cooked as 
 only a Japanese can cook it, accompanied by a nicely- 
 
smoked cuttle-fish, and washed down with a cup of warm 
 and sweet Tosa Saki, to say nothing of the post-prandial 
 cigarette of the finest Higo tobacco, and the still more 
 excellent cup of fragrant Yamashiro tea and slice of 
 kastira, or sponge-cake, which invariably accompanies it. 
 Guess you've travelled in the interior before, Banker ? " 
 
 *' Many a time and oft," I replied, heaving a deep sigh 
 of recollection at the many pleasant trips up the valley of 
 the Yodogawa, to the sacred city of Kioto, the shores of 
 Lake Biwa, and the surrounding country of Osaka ; what 
 jolly picnics, what pleasant shooting-trips, what groups of 
 merry faces ! Ah me ! the very remembrance of those 
 Osaka days — gone, gone, never to return — causes even 
 now a tightening of the throat and a cold and shivery 
 feeling up the region of the backbone ! 
 
 " Sayonara Basil sama made muasa " (Good-bye until 
 lo-morrow), I called out to my companion, whose figure 
 at the end of the trim little garden was dimly discernible 
 "waiting for the last word. *' We'll start to-morrow morn- 
 ing at five o'clock, from the Club. Mind you are 
 punctual ;" and I retired to my couch, to dream of the 
 glories of the coming expedition, which even the prospect 
 of a year's furlough to Europe did not eclipse. 
 
 What with excitement about our trip, and hunting those 
 little pests, the mosquitoes, I got little sleep that night. 
 
** Buzz — buzz ! " they kept at it, until at last I could 
 stand it no longer. Slap! — holloa! — Tve got one! 
 ** Buzz !" Slap ! — why, here's another. Bang ! — slap ! — 
 hurrah ! — a third. ** Thirty tempoes off your wages. Master 
 Kane, at the end of the month ;'' for be it known to all 
 men that it was a rule of mine, as inexorable as the laws 
 of the Medes and Persians, that, for every delinquent 
 mosquito found under my curtains, a ** cut '* of ten cents, 
 was imposed on the wages of my body-servant at the end 
 of the month. 
 
 Kane used to bear the ** squeeze " with the greatest 
 equanimity, mentally determining, I presume, that if he 
 was docked one way he would make up for it in another. 
 Japanese ** boys '* soon grow rich ,at their master's 
 expense, and in a very few years give up work and start a 
 tea-house on their own account. " Tea-house " is the slang 
 name given by all foreigners in the Far East to the chaya, 
 or Japanese public-house — hotel, as we should call it. 
 Kane was an exception, though, to the general run of 
 Japanese boys, he served me faithfully during all the six 
 years I spent in Japan, and is looking forward hopefully to 
 the time when I may return. He has a new master now, 
 and only the other day sent me a message to say that his 
 temporary " dannasan" quite disgusted him, he missed so 
 many pheasants, and that Rapsan and Nellysan (their 
 
excellencies Rap and Nelly, my favourite dogs) were quite 
 well. I never knew such a fellow for sport as Kane ; he 
 would scour the country for miles round in search of good 
 cover for pheasants or for a wisp of snipe, and I never 
 knew him to show me a mare's nest ; and great would be 
 his excitement on my bringing down a yama dori, or 
 mountain cock, as the magnificent copper pheasant of 
 Japan is called by the natives. But we must return to 
 our subject. 
 
 Punctually at five next morning, Basil and I left the 
 steps of the Club, after having put ourselves comfortably 
 outside a dish of bacon and eggs and a cup of hot coffee. 
 How we dallied over the pabulum, the last European 
 *' chow-chow '' that we were to see for at least a fortnight ! 
 
 ** I say, Banker, won't you be longing for some of this 
 sort of thing this day next week ? *' said Basil, playfully, 
 toying with a poached egg as he spoke. 
 
 '* Not I," I said emphatically, patting my gastronomical 
 apparatus and endeavouring to conceal my emotion by 
 turning away. " Come, let us away.'* 
 
 A rare-looking couple we were. Basil, with a huge 
 sun-hat of the coal-heaver's pattern, a flannel coat and 
 trousers, and, like a sensible individual, strongly shod 
 with high-lows nailed and heeled after the most approved 
 navvy pattern. A small pack containing a change was at 
 
8 
 
 his back, and a portable writing-case hung on in some 
 miraculous manner to his nether garments, finished him 
 up. 
 
 A neat fitting suit of flannel knickerbockers, a huge 
 Panama straw hat, and a pair of strong shoes made by 
 a Chinese shoemaker, completed my attire, my flannel 
 change and brush and comb aforesaid, rolled up tightly, 
 were with a field glass slung across my shoulders. 
 
 It was a lovely July morning. The song of the bull, 
 hog, and the scissor-grinder had ceased, and given place 
 to the trill of the lark as we started. Walking joyously 
 along the Tokaido, as the great high road that runs from 
 Yedo to Kioto is called, until we reached Fujisawa, the 
 first post-town on the route, the air was cool and pleasant, 
 the delightful scenery on either side of the road striking 
 us most vividly after the dirt and squalor of the native 
 town of Yokohama. Neat hedgerows, consisting mainly 
 of the Cryptomiria Japonica, bounded the well-kept 
 gardens, and here and there, dotted along the road at 
 intervals the tall and massive-looking Matsnoki, or 
 Japanese pine, reared its head ; the feathery groups of 
 bamboo clumped in alternative clusters affording a 
 delightful contrast. 
 
 What strikes one with so much force in regard to 
 Japanese foliage, are the numberless shades of green, 
 
from the palest, almost yellow, colour, to the dark deep 
 rich bottle green ; European and tropical vegetation 
 mingled and commingled in such an enchanting manner 
 that I have, on emerging from a narrow gorge in the 
 mountains and coming suddenly on some secluded 
 valley, been almost struck dumb with admiration, and 
 wildly longed for the pencil of a Stansfield or a Cox. 
 
 On we trudged, the sun getting high and the day 
 warm as we proceeded, anon flirting with some pretty 
 little mugme, who would beseech us in the most dulcet 
 tones she could command to tarry awhile and take a 
 cup of tea at her house. Now chaffing some strapping 
 Jin Riki sha coolie who, in a laughing manner, would 
 reply, '^ Kodomorashi no skto !^' ^(What childish creatures). 
 
 A tinkling of bells in the distance, however, diverts 
 our attention from the coolie, and as we walk along 
 with renewed energy, a bend in the road discloses a 
 long string of pedestrians clothed in white ; a bell, 
 from which the tinkling noise proceeded, was attached 
 to each man's girdle, and a bead rosary suspended 
 round each one's neck. We regarded them with interest, 
 for they were pilgrims bound, like ourselves, for the 
 sacred mountain, men filled with the religious interest 
 of conquering Fusiyama, and paying their devoirs to 
 the sacred spirit who is supposed to inhabit its summit. 
 
One fine old fellow, who had walked all the way from 
 Wakiyama, the capital town of Kishiu, a distance of 
 at least 300 miles, and over such roads, too, as Japan 
 can only show, told us that he had for years, as soon 
 as ever his rice fields were planted, always started to pay 
 his respects to the peerless mountain O'Fujisan. 
 
 I think I see him now, as he walked at the head of 
 his string of followers, white linen bands strapped 
 tightly round his aged limbs. Alpenstock, or rather 
 Fusiyama stock, in hand, now tinkling his bell, and 
 anon striking up a chant in which he would be joined 
 by all his ** string." 
 
 **• Sayonora ddanasan^^ (Farewell, master), he cried, 
 ** we shall meet again on the mountain top/* Go on, 
 thou brave old man, go on ! long may you live to conquer 
 Fusi! 
 
 It was now midday, and right glad were we to reach 
 the hospitable portals of Mother OTakisan*s comfortable 
 hostelry at Fujisawa, a place the name of which, if 
 literally interpreted, means the meadow of Wisteria 
 trees, why such a name should be bestowed upon it 
 is a mystery to me, as there is not the ghost of a 
 Wisteria tree to be seen in the place. 
 
 Bustling maidens now surrounded us, bringing hot 
 water wherewith to bathe our feet. 
 
" Oh, Sir, please tell us something diverting from 
 Yokohama," said Miss Okoisan, or Little Fountain. 
 
 "There is no diverting thing at Yokohama," I said, 
 ''at present; but the Tenno's wife is going to the 
 sulphur baths at Miyanoshta." 
 
 '* Honto des ka, Honto des ka^^ (really, really), from 
 all sides now resounded, and we were speedily in the 
 midst of a crowd of all the idlers and gossips in the 
 place. Miss Little Fountain in the meantime rushing 
 about in the most excited manner, spreading the news 
 that the Empress was shortly going to take the sulphur 
 baths at Hakoni, and that two daring foreigners were 
 going to ascend the sacred mountain. 
 
 **I say, lefs hook it" shouted Basil from the middle 
 of an admiring throng of Jin Riki sha coolies, packhorse 
 men, &c., by whom he was surrounded. 
 
 " Fm not going to move until IVe had a Suika," 
 said I. " Here, Little Fountain, go and fetch one from 
 your deepest well, and if it is not as cool as snow I 
 won't give you a single boo." 
 
 '' YoroshV (all right), she replied, presently returning 
 with a beautiful bottle-green water melon as big as 
 your head, which she declared had been down the well 
 for two days. Anyhow, it was as cool as ice ; and then 
 Little Fountain cut it up with a hatchet, and we slaked 
 
our thirst and moistened our lips, diving deep into 
 it, and swallowing huge mouthfuls at a go. There are 
 many worse things in the world, I can tell you, than 
 a nice, cool water melon, freshly drawn from a deep 
 well, especially if eaten after a long, dusty walk in the 
 middle of a hot Japan summer's day. (Mem.) A little 
 Satsuma brown sugar is an immense addition. 
 
 Fujisawa is a long, straggling town, composed of one 
 street, as is the usual custom of all Japanese towns. It is 
 a lively, bustling place, the roadway filled with packhorses, 
 being watered or passing through carrying rice for the 
 towns and villages in the mountains, or returning laden 
 with bags of charcoal. 
 
 Fujisawa is principally remarkable for the number of 
 fireproof **godowns " in the place. These godowns, or 
 storehouses, are mud-built, and when a fire bursts out, 
 the inhabitants make a rush for the place, with all their 
 portable goods, place them inside, shut the doors, and 
 then wait calmly until the fire has passed over and around 
 the godown. After the fire is over they open out the 
 godown, and here they live, and eat, and sleep, until 
 that important person the Daikosan, or carpenter, has 
 built them a new dwelling-place. Fujisawa has a bad 
 reputation as regards fires. The town is built in rather 
 a draughty situation, and when a fire does break out it 
 
13 
 
 carries all before it. The place has been burnt down 
 twice within the last five years. 
 
 We were glad to say good-bye to the busy, noisy place ; 
 and, amidst shouts of farewell, and entreaties to visit 
 Dame O'Takisan's on our return, we turned oif the main 
 street to our right, and entered a sandy lane, bordered on 
 both sides by the dwarf bamboo, huge camelia trees now 
 out of bloom, affording a welcome shade to the noonday sun. 
 
 Presently we came to a shallow, but rapid-running, 
 river, which empties itself into the sea about two miles 
 from Inoshima ; and, shouting for the sendo, or ferryman, 
 to take us across, we awaited his arrival under the shade 
 afforded by some bamboo trees, and enjoyed a few 
 moments' grateful rest ; for the road had been very bad, 
 the light sandy soil causing us to sink ankle-deep at every 
 step we took. 
 
 '-' Hayo I hayo ! sendo l'^ (Quick, ..quick, boatman!) 
 I shouted, as the individual in question appeared, 
 buttoning on his kimono, or robe, in the most leisurely 
 manner. " We want to get to Inoshima before sunset. 
 How far is it from here } '* 
 
 **, About two ri, your Excellencies, and a very bad 
 road," said our Charon, pulling us across in the usual 
 snail-like manner of the Japanese ferryman, as if time 
 was not of the slightest object. . 
 
H 
 
 On landing on the other side, we found our friend the 
 boatman was not far out in saying the road was bad. 
 It was, indeed, detestably bad ; and as we toiled along in 
 the deep, shifting sand, giving vent to many a groan, 
 right glad were we to see the environs of the fishing 
 village of Kataze, presently appearing in the shape of 
 some neat-looking cottages, which, with their pretty little 
 gardens, bright with cocks'-combs and azaleas in full 
 bloom, looked quite homelike. 
 
 I noticed a large hood-leaved plantain tree in full 
 bloom here. The fruit, however, never comes to perfec- 
 tion in Japan. 
 
 On the hill, most beautifully inland, is a very fine 
 temple, which commands a lovely view. 
 
 Kataze itself is a most dirty-looking and inodourous 
 sort of place, devoted apparently to the curing of fish and 
 mending of nets; so, with the distant boom of the ocean 
 in our ears, we pressed on, and presently found ourselves 
 standing on the shores of the mighty Pacific, the huge 
 rollers tumbling in, and breaking at our feet with a noise 
 like thunder. Rising straight out of the sea, about a 
 quarter of a mile ofi", was the rocky island of Inoshima, 
 famed in Japanese poetry as commanding one of the 
 seven beautiful views of Japan. 
 
 Inoshima, although called an island, is not strictly one. 
 
IS 
 
 as the sea, by some strange freak of the tides," has thrown 
 up a belt of sand, by means of which it is generally possible 
 to cross from the mainland, except on such occasions as 
 very high tides, typhoons, &c. 
 
 The sun was setting as we reached our tea-house, the 
 principal hongen in the place. It was the ** season " for 
 Inoshima, and the house was crowded with Japanese, and 
 we had some difficulty in getting our wants attended to. 
 However, an individual presently appeared, with a bottle 
 of beer, which he placed before us with a low bow. Basil 
 threw himself exhausted on the mats, whilst I engaged 
 myself in opening the beer, pouring out a couple of large 
 teacups full. We gazed on the amber fluid, and, wishing 
 each other a pleasant trip, prepared to toss it down. 
 
 ** Shades of Bass and AUsopp ! what awful stuff is this ?** 
 cried I. 
 
 " Poison ! " grimly replied Basil, as soon as he could 
 speak for spitting and coughing. 
 
 ** Not far wrong,'* said I, in a " limp " tone of 
 voice. 
 
 It was, indeed, some villainous composition, decocted in 
 the back slums of Yokohama, and placed in bottles with 
 Bass's labels, after the original pure contents had been 
 consumed ; and then the awful compound is passed oif 
 on the poor deluded Japanese as Bass's beer. ** Comment," 
 
i6 
 
 as Paterfamilias says when writing to the Times, " is 
 quite unnecessary." 
 
 ** I think the best thing to do is to go and have a bathe, 
 if only to take the taste out of our mouths," said I. 
 
 ** I*m quite of your way of thinking," replied Basil ; 
 and, stepping out into the grotto-like garden, towels in 
 hand, we climbed down the cliff on to the beach 
 below, and, bargaining with a sendo for a boat, were 
 soon out in the bay. Diving overboard with a splash 
 that wet the unfortunate Basil from head to foot, I 
 was soon down at the bottom, presently appearing 
 with one of the beautiful Venus's ear - shells, for 
 which the place is famous. 
 
 I shall never forget that bathe. It was truly, I think, 
 one of the most delicious moments of my life. As I lay 
 on the water, gently paddling with my hands, watching 
 the beautiful island green down to the water*s edge, the 
 lovely groves of feathery bamboo forming such a delight- 
 ful contrast to the dark green of the Matznoki ; charming 
 little shinto shiners, peeping out from every corner of the 
 island. The water, too, cool and clear to a degree, was 
 so refreshing and invigorating that we both declared that, 
 even after our twenty-five mile walk under the hot tropical 
 sun, we felt quite equal to going on to Fusiyama without 
 ever stopping ! 
 
I? 
 
 On returning to our lodging-house we found the ban 
 tabero, or evening meal, quite ready — a huge bowl of 
 smoking rice, with chopsticks ready for conveying the 
 same into one's mouth, flanked by a splendid Tara (a 
 species of cod-fish), fish soup, and a jar of warm saki. 
 
 *' Here's to the goods the gods provide us ! '' said I ; 
 '* what more could you want in the way of provender ? " 
 
 ''Nothing," ejaculated Basil, a hard-boiled egg dis- 
 appeared down his throat like magic as he spoke. 
 
 By-and-bye in came mine host, making his usual very 
 low bow, and, going down on his knees, he bent forward 
 on outstretched palms. As soon as we were silent, he 
 raised his head, and drawing in his breath with a sibilant 
 noise, asked us if we would like a Taikomochi or jester ? 
 " No ; no Taikomochis for us ! " we shouted. ** Bring our 
 beds, and be sure and call us to-morrow morning at four.'' 
 
 Going into the next room, we found our beds ready. 
 They, of course, were made up on the mats, and consisted 
 of three large futongs, or Japanese mattrasses; heavy 
 cotton quilts placed one on the top of the other, with 
 another futong rolled up so as to form a pillow ; mosquito 
 curtains of a coarse kind of green netting were slung from 
 the different corners of the room, and under these we 
 crept ; and though the bed was a little hard, sleep came 
 pretty readily to us tired travellers. 
 
 B 
 
i8 
 
 Punctually at four next morning we were routed out, and, 
 after an early breakfast consisting of ka-stira, or Japanese 
 sponge-cake, accompanied by a number of diminutive 
 cups of the light-coloured tea of the country, we started to 
 explore Inoshima. It is here that the most enormous 
 crabs are caught, measuring twelve feet from claw to 
 claw. We wandered about the island for an hour, and 
 after purchasing one or two specimens of the beautiful 
 haylomela, or glass seaweed, determined to proceed on 
 our journey. It was a most delicious morning : the sea as 
 calm as a lake, and the sun, which was just getting up, 
 tinged the summit of Fusiyama with a pink colour, making 
 it look most indescribably lovely. We had thirty miles to 
 do before dark, though, so we had to tear ourselves away 
 from the prospect, and, turning off the seashore, we trudged 
 along the interminable high road (interminable on account 
 of its sameness) that leads from Katase to Odawara. 
 With the exception of two '* fishy" episodes, I have 
 nothing to relate of our journey to Odawara. The same 
 sandy road, flanked on either side by huge pines, with an 
 occasional village by way of variety, continued all the 
 way. 
 
 It was at one of these villages that fish episode No. i 
 occurred, in the shape of an immense shark some fourteen 
 feet long, which had been caught in the fishermen's nets, 
 
'9 
 
 and was now undergoing the process of being cut up, 
 amidst shrieks of delight from all the youthful " Jappers," 
 who were regarding the operation with admiring eyes. 
 What a pity the bathers of Yokohama could not have seen 
 Mr. Shark; it would have retarded their bathing ardour 
 somewhat, I fancy. 
 
 The sun was now coming out uncomfortably hot. We 
 determined, however, not to knock under, but continued 
 our way in the most gallant style, walking some good 
 four miles an hour, until Basil began to complain of 
 blistered heels, whereupon we **lay to'' for a little and 
 partook of some dreadfully sour peaches. 
 
 Whilst idly fanning ourselves, the most enormous skate 
 that I should think was ever seen was carried by. It 
 was suspended from bamboo poles, and took at least four 
 men to carry it, its long tail dragging along the ground, in 
 the rear of the men, in the most uncomfortable manner. 
 Truly, it was a hideous monster. 
 
 On inquiry, we found that it was only three miles to 
 Odawara, so we pushed on, reaching that place about four 
 in the afternoon, after an exciting passage across the 
 Sagami river. The ferry boats, in consequence of the 
 river being in flood, were laid up, and we had, therefore, 
 to be carried across on a sort of tray, borne on the 
 shoulders of eight men, whose combined strength alone 
 
 B 2 
 
20 
 
 prevented them being carried away by the force of the 
 current, the bearers being in some places up to their 
 necks in water. 
 
 Odawara is a large place, and one of the old post- 
 towns of the country. There is a fine old castle at the 
 farther end of the town, formerly the stronghold of the 
 Hojo clan, who were in power in these parts about the 
 fifteenth century. 
 
 The mountains rise up precipitately all round the town, 
 and the farmers in the neighbourhood, whose crops suffer 
 from the ravages of the wild pig in winter time, have been 
 compelled, in self-defence, to build low 'stone walls round 
 their gardens. Just outside the guard-house we observed 
 a sign-board with the following inscription in English, 
 French, and German ; " This is the treaty limit ; there- 
 fore, no foreigner can pass." Of this, of course, we took 
 no regard. 
 
 The scenery now became very interesting, the stony 
 path winding in a zigzag manner round the mountain. 
 On one side was a rushing, foaming torrent, which we 
 crossed several times, over very frail bamboo bridges. 
 We had not yet left all cultivation behind us, the lower 
 parts of the mountains b^ing covered with patches of 
 maize, tobacco, sweet potatoes, &c. 
 
 The natives in these parts are verycunning in the manu- 
 
21 
 
 facture of little miniature cabinets, made of the different 
 barks that grow in the district. They are very cheap, 
 but foreigners are quickly raising the price, as they do 
 of most things, by giving almost whatever the Japanese 
 ask. 
 
 The road now became steep, and to us weary travellers, 
 uncommonly trying. However, an old woman who was 
 coming down the mountain side, with a huge pack con- 
 taining charcoal at her back, raised our drooping spirits 
 by telling us Mianoshta was only one ri distant. Stately 
 groves of camphor-trees appeared in the valleys below us, 
 while the mountain tops were fringed with dark green 
 pines. The air now became much cooler, and everywhere 
 we heard the sound of rushing water, a lovely little water- 
 fall breaking presently into full view. 
 
 It was now becoming twilight, and the twilight was 
 rapidly changing into darkness, and still no Mianoshta. 
 We began to get alarmed lest we had lost our way. 
 It is not pleasant to have to sleep on a mountain side, 
 even in Japan ; besides, fever is very often the conse- 
 quence of such indiscretion. 
 
 At last, however, lights began to twinkle in the dis- 
 tance, and we were soon standing at the door of the 
 hongen, when, to our horror and disgust, we were told the 
 place was full, but they believed there was a house 
 
farther down the valley where we could be put up ; and 
 the Japanese Boniface, in the most polite manner possible, 
 offered us a coolie as guide. We thanked him, and 
 gracefully retired. 
 
 Yet half-an-hour*s walking ere reaching our quarters. 
 However, it was down hill this time, the road lined with 
 rough stones, to prevent its being washed away by the 
 rains, continual stumbles occurring on our part, in spite 
 of the lantern held in front by the careful guide, the fire- 
 flies flitting around in the most charming manner, as if to 
 light us on our way. We paused a while, in order that the 
 night air might fan our faces. 
 
 Seated on a large boulder, I was indulging in some 
 dreams, fanciful and otherwise, when I was speedily 
 recalled to recollections of our strange position by 
 the smart slap of a huge rhinoceros beetle, whose 
 wild career was brought to an untimely end by his 
 being transferred to a small pasteboard box specially 
 kept for such. The village guide observing that 
 we had only a few more cho to go, we roused our- 
 selves, and very soon were standing at the door of a 
 clean-looking tea-house, with a signboard signifying that 
 it was a sulphur bath and hotel. On entering, some, as 
 usual, pretty little muzmes at once brought us tea, quickly 
 took off our shoes, washed our feet, and made us comfort- 
 
able. We at once made inquiries for the furu, or sulphur 
 bath, and presently were shown into a wooden shed with 
 a large bath, which was filled by means of a bamboo pipe, 
 through which the hot sulphur water ran. It was uncom- 
 monly hot at first, and the smell of the sulphur was very 
 overpowering. However, we emerged like giants re- 
 freshed, and felt like any amount of going on the 
 morrow. These sulphur baths in the Hakone range of 
 mountains are celebrated throughout Japan, and large 
 numbers of diseased and decrepit Japanese annually visit 
 them, as they are supposed to be capable of curing nearly 
 every complaint under the sun. After emerging from the 
 afore-mentioned shed in a very parboiled condition, we 
 made tender inquiries after supper; for we were most 
 sorely set, I, for one, feeling hungry enough to have 
 eaten an old shoe. 
 
 " Narahodoy^ said the old landlady, rubbing her hands 
 against her knees, as soon as she comprehended the 
 burden of our song to get something to eat, no matter 
 what, *' it is late, and no fish can be got ; we have only 
 stewed seaweed and pickled cuttle-fish." 
 
 " Oh Heavens 1" we cried, in sore distraction ; the idea 
 of such awful muck after a thirty miles* walk, was too 
 much for our already over- tired nerves. We both lay 
 down on the soft, clean mats, and indulged in a fit 
 
24 
 
 of prolonged groaning. The landlady looked frightened, 
 and beat a hasty retreat, presently returning to say that 
 she had found a few hard-boiled eggs, and that she had 
 lots of sponge-cake and saki. This news speedily 
 brought us to, and we were shortly at work, Basil, in the 
 most cautious manner, tasting the cuttle-fish, and on 
 giving a verdict in its favour, our chopsticks were speedily 
 at work, and a little girl bringing in the rice-tub, we were 
 very soon replete. 
 
 After a stroll in the garden and a pipe of Japanese 
 tobacco, we thought that, in view of our vow of being at 
 the foot of Fusiyama by to-morrow's eve, it was prudent 
 to retire to rest. 
 
 How deliciously cool it was up there, 2,500 feet above 
 the level of the sea ! 
 
 No mosquitoes to worry our lives out of us ; no sound 
 but the murmur of the ice-cool stream dropping from rock 
 to rocjc, a sweet lullaby to sleep to. 
 
 At dawn of day we were up and doing, and after a bathe 
 in the mountain stream and a breakfast of rice and smoked 
 mountain trout, we bade farewell to our kind landlady and 
 her attentive maidens, and stepped forth into the clear 
 mountain air with a ** Ho for Fusiyama ! " 
 
 Our progress was rapid the early part of the day. We 
 had been sleeping on the mountain sides, and we were now 
 
25 
 
 descending as hard as we could pelt. The bottom was soon 
 reache d, and after passing across a valley about a mile wide, 
 consisting of nothing but paddy fields, dotted here and 
 there with a farmer's hut and its attendant cluster of fruit 
 and bamboo trees, we reached the foot of an imposing 
 range of mountains, and commenced a most toilsome 
 ascent under the fierce blaze of a noonday sun. Oh, 
 what wouldn't we have given for a bottle of bitter beer ! 
 
 When we were half-way up, our walk was soon reduced 
 to a crawl, and at last exhausted nature gave in, and we 
 lay down under the lee of a couple of large rocks, and 
 surveyed the scene around us. 
 
 The soil consisted entirely of decomposed granite, upon 
 which nothing would grow. It was a wild, rugged-looking 
 scene, the yellowish red of the granite reflecting the bright 
 rays of the sun in a most painful manner to the eye ; and it 
 was a relief to turn to the green-looking Hakone range of 
 mountains nearly opposite to us, whose sides we had de- 
 scended so rapidly in the morning. 
 
 We proceeded on our way, winding round and round 
 the mountain, turning aside now and then to admire the 
 magnificent panorama that was gradually unfolding itself 
 as we ascended. 
 
 The path was a miserable one, cut up every here and 
 there with watercourses, and covered with sharp stones, 
 
26 
 
 amongst which we pursued our stumbling way. It is a 
 long lane which has no turning, however, and it was not 
 long before we reached the summit, covered, to our 
 astonishment, with short thymy grass, upon which we 
 cast our panting bodies. 
 
 We were presently joined by a native traveller, from 
 whose well-filled water-barrel we took a welcome drink. 
 This individual had started from Yoshida, a town at the foot 
 of Fuji, in the morning, and was bound for Yedo. He was 
 a thorough mountaineer, and marched up the steep hillside 
 with a light, springy step, without showing the slightest 
 sign of exertion. Straw sandals were attached to his feet, 
 to protect them from the sharp stones, and on his head 
 he wore a huge dish-shaped bamboo hat, to keep off the 
 hot rays of old Sol. We judged him to be some small 
 shopkeeper on his way to the capital, perhaps to lay in a 
 fresh store of goods ; for everyone and everything goes to 
 Yedo, lust as they go to London in our own country. 
 
 Our friend was most communicative, and afforded us 
 much valuable information regarding tea-houses, routes, 
 and other particulars ; and, to our great delight, he pro- 
 duced a small native map, over which we squatted, and 
 which enabled us to trace our route to Subashiri very 
 fairly. 
 
 And now we had time to admire the magnificent pros- 
 
27 
 
 pect, to feast our eyes on the scene stretched out before 
 us. Right in front rose the grand old mountain, its top 
 peering out through the mass of light, fleecy-looking 
 clouds surrounding it, the snow still lying there in spite 
 of the July sun. How majestic the old fellow looked, 
 immutable as time itself! No wonder the Japanese have 
 deified it ; no wonder that, in spite of the march of civili- 
 zation, they still flock thither to pay their adorations ! 
 
 Away to the right towered the jagged peaks of Ashidaka- 
 yama, and farther on still smoked the restless Asamayama, 
 one of the active volcanoes of Japan. And the valley 
 beneath us ! Words cannot paint it. Its picturesque 
 temples, avenues of creptomerias, stately cedars, lovely 
 hamlets nestling in plantations of bamboo and palm-trees, 
 stretches of mulberry plantations, and here and there 
 some rippling stream, whose course could be dis- 
 tinctly traced by means of the fringe of alder and other 
 trees. 
 
 At our feet, some six miles away, lay the far-famed 
 Gotemba, noted as having been the hunting quarters of 
 the great Yoritomo, one of the former Nippon rulers of 
 Dai (Great Japan), when pursuing the deer and boars 
 that abounded in these wild regions some seven centuries 
 ago. 
 
 The name of Yoritomo is still revered throughout Japan, 
 
28 
 
 and numberless are the shrines and temples dedicated to 
 his memory. 
 
 It was curious what a contrast this side of the Uto Toge 
 afforded to the one we had just ascended. The path now 
 wound steadily down through green dwarf shrubs of every 
 description, varied here and there by patches of bamboo 
 grass ; and now and then we would come to some little 
 dell, a perfect blaze of flowers. The Japanese thrush was 
 in great force, and the lark sang merrily overhead. 
 
 After passing through a succession of mulberry plan- 
 tations, catching glimpses of the owners, winding silk 
 or attending to their silkworms, through the dense growth 
 of bamboos with which each house appeared to be sur- 
 rounded, we reached Gotemba, going straight to the Tea- 
 house recommended by our worthy acquaintance of the 
 Uto Tog6. 
 
 It was a very comfortable and charmingly-situated Chaya 
 or Hotel, built at the end of, and overshadowed by, a grove 
 of cryptomeria trees. The front of the house was adorned 
 by numberless Nobori, the coloured flags or banners that 
 are used on all festive and holiday occasions throughout 
 Japan, and as they fluttered out gaily in the breeze, show- 
 ing the huge Chinese characters that were painted on 
 them, they presented an extremely novel appearance. A 
 cry of ''Agensan! agensan!^^ (Foreign gentleman!) was 
 
29 
 
 raised as soon as we were caught sight of, and a rush was 
 made from all parts of the house. Very few foreigners 
 had ever been to Gotemba before, and we were objects, 
 consequently, of great curiosity and attention. 
 
 As soon as we had been relieved of our shoes, hats, and 
 other superfluous garments, we walked inside to make a 
 tour of inspection, order tiffin, and a hot bath. Ere we 
 had made up our minds what sort of fish to order, the bath 
 was announced as ready. 
 
 A delightful article of domestic use is a Japanese bath, 
 and no native house is considered furnished without one. 
 The bath in general use consists of an oval-shaped tub, 
 about four and a half feet long and three high. At one end 
 is an iron pipe ; this pipe is filled with live charcoal to the 
 depth of six inches, water having been previously poured 
 into the tub to the depth of one and a half feet. On the 
 top of the tub is placed a close-fitting cover. In five 
 minutes you remove this, and you have a bath as hot as 
 ever you can desire. 
 
 And now for lunch, which was spread out on diflferent 
 lacquered trays on the clean, sweet-smelling mats. We 
 sat down a la Jap., and started operations on a bowl 
 of miso, or bean soup ; next followed smoked trout and 
 salted plums, the latter a most awful compound, which, to 
 appreciate at all, I should think, one's taste would require 
 
$0 
 
 a great deal of educating ; after this we had stewed doves, 
 and a most curious dish composed of green bamboo roots 
 and lily bulbs, the whole crowned with sweet saki, or wine, 
 and a dessert consisting of peaches and water melons. 
 Altogether, the meal was a great success, and our walk of 
 twenty miles made us do it most ample justice. 
 
 After tiffin, we were visited by the head official of the 
 place and a party of yakunins or two-sworded men. Basil 
 hunted up his pocket Hepburn dictionary, and I thought- 
 fully composed a speech in my most classic Japanese. 
 The master of the house produced some saki, many little 
 cups were filled, and we drank each other's health in 
 Japanese fashion, first holding the cup up to one's fore- 
 head, then bowing low, and sipping off the contents. 
 After these gentry had satisfied their curiosity regarding 
 us, and had obtained the latest news from Yokohama, 
 they put on their swords and departed ; and mine host 
 having brought his bill, it was promptly settled for the 
 modest sum of three boos, equal to about three shillings 
 of our money. Truly, you may go farther and fare worse 
 than at the house of our friend Mouraye, in the town 
 of Gotemba, province of Sinshin, Japan. 
 
 The whole of this lovely valley seemed given up to the 
 cultivation of the silkworm, and as we wound our way 
 among the cryptomerias and cedars, we scarcely passed a 
 
31 
 
 house without seeing one or two women winding the silk 
 off the cocoons, working the machine with their left hands 
 and clearing the cocoons in the basin of hot water with 
 their right. 
 
 We continued our way zigzag through the valley, passing 
 through large mulberry plantations, with now and then a 
 few rice-fields. As we went on, the road gradually 
 became a bridle-path, cultivation began to fail, and the 
 rich loam to change into the black ashes that mark the 
 former eruptions of streams of lava. 
 
 What trees there were were low and stunted, and soon 
 the path running up a gradual incline, there stood, dis- 
 closed to us, the goal of our journey, O'Fujisan, standing 
 grandly out in bold relief at the end of a vast extent of 
 gradually-sloping moorland. 
 
 As we walked on, the air became perceptibly cooler, the 
 vegetation ceasing, with the exception of the straw grass 
 so commonly used in the thatching of native houses in 
 Japan. 
 
 Long strings of pack-horses passed us at every turn, 
 laden with charcoal manufactured in the dense forests 
 that fringe the base of the great mountain. What dwell- 
 ings there were were miserable hovels, whose occupants 
 existed by means of selling Bancha, as the common tea 
 of the country is called by the pilgrims. From some of 
 
32 
 
 these people we learnt that Subashiri, the town from 
 whence we were to make the ascent in the morning, was 
 only two ri distant, so on we started with fresh vigour. 
 My boots, manufactured by a Chinese shoemaker in 
 Yokohama, now commenced to show signs of wear and 
 tear, the rough lava ashes making sad havoc of the leather, 
 and I began to fear that I should have to make the ascent 
 in the straw sandals of the country. BasiFs home-made 
 high-lows, tipped and nailed with iron, wore splendidly, 
 and many an envious glance did I cast at them. We now 
 very soon came in sight of the mountain town of Subashiri, 
 situated at the base of a low hill, and surrounded on all 
 sides by large pine-trees. We were met at the entrance 
 of the town by an official, the head yakunin of the place, 
 who conducted us to a temple at the upper end of the one 
 long street of which the place consisted. It was a very 
 spacious building, the beams across the ceiling of the 
 rooms beautifully carved, and the screens dividing the 
 apartments most gorgeously painted and gilded. A 
 pretty garden surrounded it, a beautiful rockery and 
 fish-pond, filled with golden carp, occupying one end. 
 Two priests, the only inhabitants of the place, re- 
 ceived us with many genuflexions and bowings of the 
 forehead against the ground. We thanked our guide, 
 and throwing our exhausted frames upon the yield- 
 
33 
 
 ing mats, mutually, and heartily congratulated each other 
 that we were so near the object of our ambition, the 
 ascent of the peerless mountain. Friend Basil having 
 unmistakably signified his desire for food, one of the 
 aforesaid priests proceeded to chevy a long-legged game- 
 cock that was strutting about in the yard, and having 
 dispatched and plucked him, followed our instructions 
 by chopping the defunct into small pieces, in company 
 with a vegetable marrow, and stewing the whole in an 
 iron pot, with the addition of some red chilies and salt. 
 
 The stew we pronounced A i ; and our worthy clerical 
 having brought some smoked moiintain trout and a bottle 
 of uncommonly good saki, entirely free from all the coarse 
 fire that usually is the accompaniment of Japanese spirits 
 and wine, we did not fare at all badly. 
 
 The excellent supper having made us rather jovially 
 inclined, we borrowed the priests' garments ; and, 
 enveloped in their flowing drapery, with the sort of 
 cowl that Buddhist priests usually wear wrapped round 
 our heads, we walked down the street of Subashiri in 
 the dusk of the evening, giving forth the mendicant 
 whine for alms so often heard in the streets and roads of 
 Japan. 
 
 What a sensation we did create, to be sure 1 At first, 
 the natives could not make us out at all, the exclamation, 
 
 c 
 
34 
 
 ** Okt des na ! " (How big they are !) continually catching 
 our ear. However, they soon discovered us on peering 
 into our faces ; and an amused and laughing crowd 
 followed us home to our temporary dwelling-place. I 
 offered the priest who owned the garb I wore five rios, 
 equal to about £ i sterling, for his robes ; but he wanted 
 thirteen rios, a great deal too much, as I knew full well 
 the equal could be bought quite new for the same money 
 in Yedo. 
 
 There were no such things as mosquito nets here, nor 
 were they wanted, the night being so cold that we required 
 to sleep under quilts. What a contrast, to be sure, to the 
 hot sultry nights we had been passing in Yokohama for 
 the past few months. After having engaged a guide 
 for to-morrow's ascent, we turned in, as we had arranged 
 to be called before dawn ; and difficult work we found it, 
 rousing out at such an early hour, stiff and sore-footed 
 as we were, after our three days' trudge of eighty odd miles. 
 However, it had to be done ; so having tubbed, and re- 
 freshed our ** inwards " with a slight snack of rice and 
 dried di, or mountain trout, we started. 
 
 It was pitch dark, so our guide, holding a paper lantern 
 in his hand, lighted us on our way, through the glades of 
 an apparently thick forest. As we passed along, the 
 deadly stillness of the night was broken only by the cry of 
 
35 
 
 the night jay, and the hoot of some far-off owl. Once 
 we were startled by the dashing of a deer across our 
 path. 
 
 Our guide, who told us we were the second 
 foreigners he had ever seen, was very difficult to under- 
 stand. In the first place, he spoke some local dialect ; 
 secondly, he had through some accident, lost all his 
 front teeth, and was therefore rather inarticulate. How- 
 ever, we managed to make something out of him, and he 
 turned out a capital guide, taking us up the mountain 
 by many short cuts. 
 
 After about an hour's walk in the solemn stillness, dawn 
 began to break ; and, as if by magic, the whole forest 
 burst into life. The cuckoo commenced its mournful note, 
 reminding us most vividly of home ; and the song of the 
 Japanese nightingale was heard on every side. 
 
 As daylight came, we discovered that we were walking 
 in a long vista, made by artificial means through the 
 forest, and terminated at one end by a large temple 
 dedicated to Gongen Sama, one of the titular deities of 
 the Shintoo faith. The ascent to this point is usually 
 made by the Japanese pilgrims who can aff"ord it on 
 horseback ; but after reaching this the path becomes very 
 steep — almost perpendicular in some places— winding 
 in a zigzag fashion through the forest, composed in the 
 
 C 2 
 
36 
 
 lower part of oaks, chestnuts, beeches, and higher up a 
 number of birches ; the ground was carpeted with flowers 
 and herbs, among them such home flowers as the lily of 
 the valley and the blue pimpernel. 
 
 We passed at intervals many little wayside shrines 
 and tea-shops, mere temporary structures of bamboo and 
 matting, to be taken down and removed when the first 
 breath of winter comes. 
 
 Numbers of white-clothed pilgrims passed us on their 
 way down the mountain, the tinkling of their bells 
 sounding most musical in the distance. These bells must 
 prove useful in keeping the party together in the thick, 
 sudden fogs that come on around the mountain side. 
 
 As we ascended, vegetation alm'ost entirely ceased, 
 even the hardy birch having to give in. The black lava 
 ashes gave place to deep red brickdust-coloured cinders, 
 looking most volcanic, while here and there huge boulders 
 were scattered about that had been apparently exposed to 
 the intense action of fire. 
 
 A few hardy rushes grew, at intervals, in the interstices 
 of some piece of rock. As we crawled upwards, pushing 
 ourselves along by means of the stocks that had been pro- 
 vided us by our thoughtful guide, we got every moment 
 into colder regions. The wind came sweeping round with 
 a mournful soughing sound, chilling us both to the very 
 
37 
 
 bone, and bringing with it a thick cloud which imme- 
 diately enveloped us in a dense fog. The cloud and 
 misty rain soon passed us, however, and we again had a 
 glimpse of the sun ; but below us we could see nothing 
 but bank upon bank of clouds, passing swiftly by. 
 
 When we were half way up we went in to rokubau, one of the 
 rest-houses which are built at intervals of a quarter of a 
 mile up the side of the mountain for the convenience of 
 the pilgrims. Each of these rest-houses has an attendant 
 in charge, who will give you hot tea and rice, mixed 
 together into a sort of soup, if you should wish it. The 
 pilgrims stow away immense quantities of this " potage " 
 on their way up, never passing a rest-house without turn- 
 ing in and having what we should call a " blow out." 
 
 There are ten of these houses altogether, numbered from 
 one to ten consecutively. In appearance they are perfect 
 little fortresses, the frightful storms though, in spite of their 
 massive strength, sometimes hurling them headlong into 
 mid-air. They are built of stone, roughly quarried on 
 the spot, and the strong beams stretched across to form 
 the roof are kept in their places by immense masses of 
 rock, piled " anyhow " on the top. 
 
 Up we climbed, wearily toiling along. 
 
 It was no use turning round to look at the view, as 
 there was none to behold — nothing but an endless sea of 
 
38 
 
 mist. Now and then a pilgrim would pass us, tearing 
 down the small track, visible only for a moment before 
 being swallowed up in the fog. 
 
 A storm of snow and sleet came on, fortunately as we 
 were nearing Hachiban, or Rest-house No. 8. Into 
 this we crept, and remained snug and warm until it had 
 passed over. Down towards the base of the cone ran a 
 deep torrent-bed, caused by the melting of the snows on 
 the approach of spring. This torrent bed is used by many 
 of the pilgrims as the road for their downward journey. 
 It was very amusing to watch them from the rest-house, 
 as they rushed passed us with gradually increasing velo- 
 city, acquiring such an amount of momentum in their 
 descent that they can scarcely stop until they get to the 
 bottom of the cone. 
 
 ' The storm having passed over, we emerged from our 
 shelter, and resumed our journey up the path of shifting 
 lava ashes. 
 
 The air was most intensely exhilarating, and we neither 
 of us felt much fatigued ; but we were nevertheless precious 
 glad to catch sight of the small temple at the side of the 
 crater, and were soon warming our frozen hands over the 
 hibachi, or charcoal fire-box, that glowed pleasantly on 
 the mats. Tabero, or the mid-day meal, was presently 
 announced. How the mountain air had sharpened our 
 
39 
 
 appetites, to be sure ! I think neither of us were ever so 
 hard set in our lives before. Ail sorts of eccentricities 
 disappeared down our gullets, in the shape of cuttle-fish, 
 pickled awabi or sea-slugs, and other abominations of a 
 like nature. We had, however, to our delight, a set-off in 
 the shape of a bowl of cranberries, which, eaten with 
 Japanese brown sugar, were simply delicious. 
 
 After we had polished off nearly everything edible in the 
 priest's establishment, we strolled out and had a look at 
 the crater. Peering over the edge, we gazed down into 
 the yawning gulf, but could not see very far owing to the 
 projections from the sides. We both agreed, however, 
 that it would be a very awkward place to tumble into. 
 
 Night was now coming on, and as it was getting in- 
 tensely cold also, we made for our temple, determined to 
 resume our explorations in the morning. After giving 
 the priest strict injunctions to call us at 4 a.m. to see the 
 sunrise, I rolled myself up in three or four futongs (quilts, 
 thickly wadded with cotton), and was soon fast asleep. It 
 was at first a troubled slumber, though, for there was a 
 plague of fleas in the place. Exhausted nature, however, 
 soon asserted its sway, and I was quickly in a position to 
 care for neither fleas nor man. 
 
 '' Danna, danna, tentosama T' (Master, master, the 
 sunrise !) Opening my eyes, I found the Buddhist priest 
 
40 
 
 in a state of excitement, anxiously pointing to the door, 
 and repeating, " The sunrise ! the sunrise ! " Shouting at 
 Basil, I leaped out of my quilts, and was soon standing 
 shivering outside the temple. And what a scene was now 
 gradually unfolded to our eyes ! Words cannot paint it ; 
 it is simply indescribable, and the memory of it will last 
 for ever. 
 
 As the sun rose, the mist and clouds gradually rolled 
 away, slowly uncovering lakes and mountains, rivers and 
 sea. 
 
 Far away in our front, the whole range of the Hakone 
 mountains glowed in the sunlight, a perfect blaze of fire. 
 
 Two or three large lakes, stretched out like silver 
 sheets, were at our feet. ' Close to the right of us, appar- 
 ently, was the mighty Pacific, the white foam of the 
 breakers plainly visible, as they dashed against the 
 shores, green down to the very water's edge. 
 
 Asamayama, bathed in gold, was smoking in its usual 
 restless fashion, and the countless valleys beneath us were 
 looking so peaceful and quiet through the purplish haze. 
 
 Ten provinces of Japan are plainly visible from the 
 summit on a clear day, which, by-the-way, is a some- 
 what rare event ; and it was indeed a piece of luck our 
 getting a glorious view like this, such as has rarely fallen 
 to the lot of any man, whether native or foreigner. We 
 
41 
 
 could have feasted our eyes all day on the scene, but the 
 biting, frosty air drove us inside again. To give an idea 
 of the temperature on the summit, I will mention that the 
 hot water we had used in making tea over night was 
 completely frozen in the morning. 
 
 As the sun rose higher, we descried Yokohama and the 
 Gulf of Yedo plainly visible, and with our glasses dis- 
 covered some of the larger shipping, including the " Iron 
 Duke," the then flagship on the China and Japan station, 
 eighty odd miles away. 
 
 After despatching some more dried cuttle-fish and 
 awabi, or sea-slugs, including a dish of cranberries pre- 
 served in syrup, we bade farewell to the polite and atten- 
 tive priest to whose care the temple is entrusted, and 
 commenced our descent. 
 
 We tore down the mountain at a most awful pace, and 
 the strain upon my legs, caused by efforts to maintain the 
 necessary equilibrium, was at times exceedingly severe. 
 
 What had taken us half a day to accomplish in the 
 ascent, was done in a couple of hours on our downward 
 journey, and we very soon found ourselves in warmer 
 regions, among the dense forests skirting the foot of 
 Fuji. 
 
 My shoes were well-nigh worn to ribbons by the sharp 
 lava cinders, so when we reached the Subashiri Temple, 
 
42 
 
 I presented them to the god Gongen Sama, hanging 
 them up in the outer shrine, in the company of dozens of 
 Japanese sandals and geytas, or clogs. 
 
 We rested at Subashiri for a few hours, and after 
 having equipped myself in wariyis, or straw sandals, 
 in lieu of the Yokohama Chinaman's productions, we 
 started for Mishima, a large town on the Tokaido, 
 distant some twenty miles across the plains, skirting 
 Fusiyama. 
 
 It was a blazing hot day, and there was very little shade 
 to be got on the road. 
 
 We had some very excellent bonita steaks for lunch ; 
 they were pickled in a kind of sauce made of beans. 
 We both pronounced bonita capital eating. The Japanese 
 called the fish, sakana no niku. 
 
 The country we passed through appeared to be highly 
 cultivated ; nothing but fields of tobacco, bringalls, sweet 
 potatoes, maize, and paddy on every side. 
 
 Large plantations of cotton, too, appeared on the scene 
 as we skirted the sea-shore. 
 
 Cotton appears to thrive on very poor soil ; the 
 Japanese grow it where anything else would fail. 
 
 After all the mountaineering and climbing of the past 
 few days, walking on the flat seemed comparatively easy, 
 and we did not lose much time in halting, but moved 
 
43 
 
 briskly on in spite of the heat, occasionally stopping to 
 slake our thirst with a slice of water melon. 
 
 We met but few wayfarers, all the population seeming 
 to be engaged in the rice-fields. 
 
 Some most magnificent views of the great mountain, 
 towering high above everything else, were occasionally 
 obtained ; but towards evening clouds arose and we could 
 see nothing of the peculiar, flat-looking, snow-streaked 
 summit that we had so lately trodden. 
 
 At last we reached Mishima, and marched up its long, 
 sole street to the hongen or Government Tea-house. A 
 very fine one it is, too, and the garden at the back we 
 thought most peculiarly Japanese, and spent some time 
 exploring its beauties consisting of little fish-ponds filled 
 with golden carp, grottoes and rockeries, and last, but not 
 least, a perfect little waterfall, that supplied the whole 
 afi"air with water. *' Omeshi taki san yondekoV^ we cried 
 (Call the cook), and a wrinkled old lady of about fifty 
 summers appeared and received our orders, with the 
 appearance of the most profound respect, although in- 
 wardly, no doubt, laughing at the stupid mistakes the 
 Tojins made in ordering dinner. 
 
 After a few hours' fitful slumber, the approach of dawn 
 was signalized by the hideous crowing of a Japanese game- 
 cock, and as sleep — what between the fierce onslaughts of 
 
44 
 
 the mosquitoes and the noise of the aforesaid rooster — 
 was out of the question, I bounced out of the kaya, or 
 mosquito netting, and proceeded to wake the household 
 preparatory to an early start. 
 
 We had great difficulty in getting a guide, a very neces- 
 sary individual, as it is quite impossible to take a short 
 cut over the Hakone range of mountains without one. 
 
 Atami, the far-famed baths of beautiful Atami, were 
 to be our destination, and we had a long, weary up-hill 
 walk of over twenty miles before us. 
 
 At last, an individual who professed to know the nearest 
 way over the Kaburiyama was found, and with many 
 parting sayonaras we trudged forth from our comfortable 
 hostelry, and wended our way across some interminable 
 paddy fields, until the opposite range of mountains was 
 reached. 
 
 Steadily following the corkscrew sort of path, after a 
 good breather we stood upon the summit of the lower 
 range, and admired the enchanting view stretched out 
 before us. 
 
 The path was an awfully bad one, and the descent, to 
 our limbs, yet stiff with the climb up Fusi, was especially 
 trying. 
 
 At the foot, snugly situated in a lovely, sheltered 
 nook, was a most perfect little Japanese cottage, attached 
 
45 
 
 to which was a peach orchard, the trees of which were 
 laden with fruit. We were not long in driving a bargain 
 with the little Japanese lady in charge, and she was soon 
 mounted on the top of a bamboo ladder, and busily 
 engaged in filling a basket for us, occasionally throwing 
 us a peach as she came across one rather out of the 
 common way. 
 
 Every description of fruit in Japan has to be picked 
 while yet unripe, in consequence of the ravages of a 
 small maggot, which quickly eats away the part surround- 
 ing the stalk, and causes it to fall to the ground. 
 
 These peaches were very cheap. For a few tempoes 
 we got as many as we could eat and carry away. They 
 were small sized, but fairly flavoured. 
 
 A most lovely grove of cryptomeria trees occupied one 
 corner of this beautiful valley. 
 
 We left the peach orchard about noon, and then began 
 ascending the hill, and found it uncommonly tall walking, 
 but the scenery most beautiful. Our guide brought us on 
 to the Tokaido, at the Hakone Pass, where, some few 
 years ago, fighting took place between the Mikado's troops 
 and the Tycoon's, which ended in the latter's forces being 
 utterly routed. The fighting had apparently been severe, 
 and the bullet marks could easily be seen in the trees ; 
 in some places the branches were completely riddled. 
 
46 
 
 At the foot of the pass we suddenly came on the Lake 
 of Hakone, lying broad and tranquil before us. We were 
 not long in stripping for a plunge into its black and 
 gloomy depths, but were very disappointed with our swim. 
 The water was icy cold, and anything less buoyant 
 cannot be imagined ; in fact, I had the greatest difficulty 
 in floating without moving legs or arms. 
 
 This mysterious lake lies at a height of 3,000 feet 
 above the sea-level. High mountains rise up pre- 
 cipitously on every side, and how it is fed or drained 
 nobody knows. Educated Japanese suppose the basin 
 of the lake to be the mouth of an old crater. 
 
 The villagers told us that they had no cord deep 
 enough to reach the bottom in the centre of the lake. 
 
 The fish caught are very peculiar in appearance,, and 
 are only eaten by the poorer classes of Japanese. 
 
 At one side of the lake we passed a huge bronze idol 
 of Buddha. 
 
 The air in these hills was delightful, so fresh and keen 
 and exhilarating. We pushed on at a great rate, and 
 by a detour avoided the village of Hakone, with its 
 sulphur baths, and the crowds of naked humanity who use 
 them. 
 
 My straw shoes gave way entirely here, and I had to 
 perform the rest of the journey with almost bare feet. 
 
47 
 
 Ascending about i,ooo feet brought us to the summit 
 of the mountain, from whence we had a fine view of the 
 lake and the surrounding mountains. 
 
 We had now nothing but down-hill work before us for 
 the rest of the journey. It was monotonous work, though, 
 there being so little variety as we wound round miles of 
 mountain side. 
 
 After two hours or so of very stiiF walking, we reached 
 the village of Yamanaka, and rested a little to take tea 
 and other light refreshment. All the houses in Yamanaka 
 had very prettily laid-out gardens, and neatly erected 
 matted platforms on which you could smoke, drink tea, 
 and enjoy the view to your heart's content. 
 
 Basil was getting impatient to reach Atami, so I 
 unwillingly settled the score, and sadly turned my back 
 upon pretty Yamanaka. 
 
 Our walk was all down hill now, and but for the rough 
 stones that bestrewed our path we should have made 
 rapid progress. 
 
 A splendid copper cock pheasant startled us by rising 
 out of a clump of fern on the wayside. We came across 
 a hen a little way farther down. She lay so closely in 
 the fern that, on her getting up, she was easily knocked 
 over by our guide, who intended to make soup of her on 
 his reaching home. 
 
48 
 
 At last we were gladdened by a sight of the Pacific, and 
 soon Atami, with its wooden roofs shining brightly in the 
 evening sun, was before us. 
 
 Atami is different in most respects to any other town 
 in Japan. It is one of the most noted places in the 
 country, and its sulphur baths are celebrated for their 
 medicinal properties and astonishing results. 
 
 The streets, for there are several, run up the hillside in 
 an irregular manner, and the sandy beach comes right 
 up to the doorsteps of the houses facing the sea. 
 
 We wandered about the town, gazing at the curious 
 gardens and bath-houses, and at last fixed upon the hotel 
 belonging to Masayah as our lodging during our sojourn 
 at Atami. "^ 
 
 We found the tea-house uncommonly nice, very clean, 
 the rooms large and airy and beautifully matted, and were 
 soon indulging ourselves in the hottest sulphur bath in 
 the place. 
 
 It was a curious spring, the water bubbling up in a 
 perfect jet in the centre of the bath, and just outside, 
 in the garden, was another large spring, which every three 
 hours or so bursts out into a loud roar, accompanied by a 
 burst of steam and sulphurous-smelling vapour. 
 
 The inhabitants of the place are very skilful in the manu- 
 facture of all sorts of articles composed of camphor wood 
 
49 
 
 and the other different woods of the district. There are 
 some magnificent groves of camphor-trees in the neigh- 
 bourhood of the town, and, nestled snugly in their midst, 
 is a little village, whose occupants are devoted solely to 
 the making of cabinets, boxes, candlesticks, and other 
 pretty ornaments. 
 
 While sauntering round the place in the cool of the 
 evening, we found one of the tea-houses occupied by a 
 party of foreigners from Yokohama, and on inquiring 
 who they were, I was told they were the Schijiugoban 
 okamisans, or the ladies belonging to No. 75 in Yoko- 
 hama, personal friends of my own. Although late in 
 the evening, we went at once to pay our respects, and 
 were, as a reward for our politeness, regaled on cake and 
 hock wine — rather a contrast to all the vile compounds 
 we had been pouring down our throats for the past 
 week. 
 
 Bidding farewell to our amiable hostess and her lovely 
 daughter, who were to make an early start for Hakone the 
 next day, we continued our walk in the calm summer 
 evening, and mounted the hill, at the base of which Atami 
 is situated, to watch the moon rise over the beautiful bay. 
 
 It was a nice, breezy spot, and, in consequence, quite free 
 of mosquitoes, which are a great pest in Atami. 
 
 How quiet and still it was ; not a sound to be heard 
 
 D 
 
50 
 
 but the cries of some far-off fishermen throwing their 
 seines. 
 
 We spent two delightful days at Atami, enjoying the 
 baths and mooning about its lovely environs. Their 
 memory is still quite fresh, and will ever linger in the 
 remembrance of the writer — a bright epoch in the flowing 
 tide of his life. 
 
 Our tea-house had a charming garden — charming even 
 for a country which I consider nothing but a huge garden 
 itself. Gardening is a very honourable occupation in 
 Japan, and sometimes the more able men of this class rise 
 to become samourai. Near Yokohama, a well-known 
 Japanese gentleman lives who wears two swords presented 
 him by the Tycoon, in token of his appreciation of his 
 skill as a gardener. A very worthy old gentleman he is, 
 and many nice cups of tea and sweetmeats has he dis- 
 pensed to those who call upon him at his pretty little 
 dwelling-place. 
 
 Gardening in Japan is not the science it is at home ; it 
 consists chiefly in dwarfing and training trees, and making 
 neat little landscape gardens within very tiny limits. I 
 have seen a gumguat-tree under twenty inches high with 
 over thirty ripe gumguats on it. 
 
 In the corner of our tea-house garden at Atami stood a 
 pine-tree in full beauty, only about four feet high. It was 
 
51 
 
 supposed to be of immense age, which would, of course, 
 considerably enhance its value. 
 
 The grotto, too, with its little lake teeming with 
 gold-fish, and the rock-work hardly discernible for the 
 lovely little ferns and lycopodiums with which it was 
 planted, as usual, occupied a prominent position in 
 our garden, bright with blooming azaleas, both white, 
 rose, and yellow-coloured, and a little babbling brook 
 ran through the whole, the sound of its running water 
 affording grateful music to the wearied sojourner at the 
 inn. 
 
 One evening, after all their work was done, the tea- 
 house girls came out to play hagoitaya, or battledore and 
 shuttlecock. All were dressed in their holiday clothes, 
 their black and glossy hair ornamented with some little 
 bit of coloured crape, coral-mounted hair pin, or tortoise- 
 shell combs. What shouts of derision there were heard 
 when some unfortunate wight would miss the shuttlecock 
 and let it fall to the ground ; and when we joined the 
 merry throng, what screams of laughter and cries of 
 *^ Danna jodzu dis ne T^ (How skilful you are, master!) 
 as we alternately kept up or missed the shuttlecock, the 
 penalty for the latter being a slap on the back all round 
 from the other battledores. 
 
 It was a pouring wet day when we left Atami (it had 
 
 D 2 
 
52 
 
 been raining hard ever since four in the morning), not at 
 all a pleasant prospect for another twenty miles' walk. 
 We, however, equipped ourselves in the kappa, or rain- 
 coat of the country, a garment composed of oiled paper. 
 
 Japanese scenery and Japanese towns do not show to 
 advantage on a wet day. Not a soul is to be seen stirring 
 out, all the houses and shops have their paper windows 
 and shutters closed, the gutters are turned into streams, 
 and the rain from the roofs runs off in spouts that will give 
 you an impromptu showier bath, if you are not too careful. 
 When it does rain, it comes down with a vengeance. 
 
 In Osaka, I have known it to rain seven and a-half 
 inches in a few days ; and living, as I did, for four years 
 on the bank of the Ogawa river, I have many a time 
 watched with anxious eyes the rapidly-rising river, which 
 on one occasion flooded my back garden, and the only 
 means of reaching the house was by boat. On such occa- 
 sions the people throng to the temples, to pray against 
 the threatened inundation. Huge blocks of stone are 
 brought and laid upon the wooden bridges, to give them 
 more stability against the flood. The night is passed on 
 the bridges and banks of the river, and the thousand 
 lanterns flitting about make up a charming spectacle of 
 excitement and busy agitation. 
 
 Basil and I, in our oil-paper coats and capes made of 
 
53 
 
 rice-straw, presented but a sorry spectacle as we walked 
 along the rough and slushy path that wound around and 
 over the cliffs skirting the seashore. It was a dreary walk 
 that was before us — twenty-five miles to Odowara, our 
 nearest halting-place, and where we were to rest for the 
 night. The rain had made the steep and narrow pathway 
 exceedingly heavy walking and slippery withal, and, often 
 as not, for every two steps forward, we took an impromptu 
 one back. However, we stuck to it like Britons, and ere 
 noon had set a good many leagues between ourselves and 
 beautiful Atami. 
 
 After we left the seashore the scenery became much 
 tamer, the valleys, which were well cultivated, being 
 mainly composed of rice-fields. The roadway was 
 bounded on either side by fine trees, and neat little 
 farm cottages were occasionally passed. The Japanese 
 farmer has a peculiar method of stacking his grain and 
 rice around trees. He makes the stack about eight feet 
 from the ground, and in many of the farms we noticed all 
 the trees had this additional weight attached. 
 
 The stacks are always most carefully thatched. 
 
 It seemed as if we should never reach Odawara, but as 
 evening came on we entered the town, looking more like 
 two drowned rats than anything else; and we were not 
 long in finding a tea-house, and were soon comfortably 
 
54 
 
 ensconced in Japanese garments and seated round the 
 hibachi, or fire-stove, drinking small cups of hot tea until 
 the evening meal was announced. Hearing from one of 
 the tea-house attendants that another foreigner was stay- 
 ing in the town, we went to see him, and finding an old 
 acquaintance, we obtained all the latest news from 
 Yokohama, including the arrival of the ** Japan," the 
 mail steamer that was to carry me across the Pacific en 
 route to Europe. As she was to sail thirty-six hours after 
 arrival, I had little time to spare, so engaging Jin Riki 
 shas (two-wheeled conveyances drawn by coolies — vehicles 
 much in vogue, in fact, the Hansom cab of Japan) we 
 made a start at dawn, and reached Yokohama that 
 evening. 
 
 A few farewells next day, a few parting greetings, and 
 sunset found me standing on the deck of the ** Japan," 
 watching with almost dimmed eyes the fast-receding cliffs 
 of Dar Nippon, as every throb of the paddle-wheel took 
 me farther away. 
 
 After sadly gazing at the dear old shores now nearly 
 lost in the blue distance, the thought came across me 
 that I might never see them more, and I turned me into 
 my cabin and — had a good think. 
 
Ky 
 
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