!l 1^1 1 J I -^OKc ^^\m\mvrj, ^losAicnfj-^ 4- 'Jiu.wvsov<""' %UAiNn-3tft^'' '■^;•__ .,v AV\E INIVERS/A zr: is " ._ ' » 1 r>i '^t/Auviiaii^' '^■^(JAavaaiii'*^ % - %„ .vMtlBRARY/?/ .^^lllBRARYQr >* ^ 5 1 fr^ ^ ^^' ^, ^^OFrAllFO% '^OAUvfiuni^* '^Aavaanv^'- ^\\^EDNIVTR% ^lOS^CFlfjj^ 5\ ..^ ajAi«irji\'- ^. .'? ^. •^ME USIVERf//^ vin^AvcFifr/ ^^^MIRRARYQ^ ^IIIBRARYO/T >!i ::^i i NrtJVN^ ^■ffOJIWDJO'i^ %OJI1VDJO'»^ ^\^^^)NlV!Ry//). ^J313DNVS01- .v>;lOSANi :i3AINn>3ftV .•'^' ''♦aojiiv. ^OAHvaani^"^ ^jo'»^ .t^ '^^0JnV3J0>^ t?Aavaani^^ ^jjusnvsoi^ '^/jjaAiNiiatt'^ ^OFCAIIFOB';!^ jA;OFCAllFO«(^ ^OAuvaan-i'^ ^(^Auvaaiii^ .^IrtEUNIVERS'/A ^•^ii^ ^^jiaoNvsov^^ ^//j .^^\fUNlVE^?s/A ^vlOSANCnfj-y, ^lUBRARYO/. ^5^l•lIBRARY(?/ &Aaviiani"^^ "^^o ^lllBRARYO/^ 4>^lllBRARYQr ^- " .iJrtEIJNrVERy//, -n o '^/ia3AIN(l-3WV' ^^VUBRABYQc. ^^lUBRAfiYOc < .^ 5jt\EUNivEifs/4 ^mmms^K d at the stock and slaughlrr-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my • 'Die opposition of Mr. Ilay.irosc from liis fi'ars of the perilous nature of Mr. Davidson's entcrprize, and liis uinvilliiifjniss, therefore, to take u))on liimself any responsibility. This is distinttly blitwn by Mr. Hay's letter, given in the Appendix. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 5 eyes with a view of the blue Meditoininean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as scon from tlie eastern side of the rock. I'riihiy, Si-pt. IB. — W ent out to breakfast with Capt. fSiicriti; and took Abou with me. Tiie spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in wiiich almost every variety of |)lants and frTiits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater's circle, and offered me his own instrument ; but 1 fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Bur- ro\>s, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. 1 ran my eyes over some travels in Africa. Saturday, Sept. 19. — The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place ; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, 1 know not how I shall get through it. 1 am at little expense, except for coach-hire ; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came witii a dress for Abou ; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear ; 1 have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague. Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the ' Ecclesia Nova,' and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows. Sunday, Sept. 27.— [The journal of the week, from the 20th to the 27th, contains only an account of dinner parties ; and though Mr. D. complains of dyspeptic and dysenteric symptoms, he was sufficiently recovered to go to church on the 27th.] Monday, Sept. 28. — Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves. Tuesday, Sept. 29. — In the morning the weather Mas beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents [it would be necessary to take with me into Africa, for the pur- po.se of gaining the good-will of the native chiefs]. ^^ ednesday, Sept. .'JO. — The rain came slick through the house, and the weather was very cold. Thursday, Oct. 1. — Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an 6 NOTES TAKEN DURING iraprisonraent for three years, and to hard labour. [Upon the question of the slave trade, Mr. D. says that Abou gave his opinion, but which side he took is not told.] Monday, Oct. 5. — Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O'Hara's Tower ; saw the monkies ; descended the Mediter- ranean steps, and returned by St. iNIichael's Cave. Wednesday, Oct. 7. — Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco. Thursday, Oct. 8. — The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut. Saturday, Oct. 10. — Went with a party of thirteen to see the convent in the Cork wood, and to Castillar. The last was once a fine large and strong fortification, but is now in ruins. The scenery magnificent. As we returned by the Bocca Leo/iie, it made our ride about forty miles, — a pretty long excursion for a summer's day. Sunday, Oct. 11. — Three packets arrived from England; — as yet no letters ; hoped to receive some by the Governor's bag. Went to St. Roques'. Was disappointed. Monday, Oct. 12. — Breakfasted at Major Rose's, where I met Mr. Woolfe, who had arrived l)y tlie packet from England. He lectured afterwards in the Methodists' chapel, and gave me a hit or two. As young Mr. I lay is arrived I shall go next week. Received three letters to-day. Heard a lecture at the library. The Jasscim sailed.* Tuesday, Oct. 13. — Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture : it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off. Friday, Oct. 10. — Heard bad news, which was, however, not con- firmed. [To what circumstance Mr. D. alludes, it is mipossible to glean from his journal.] Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; lie lnought with him a lot of presents. Monday, Oct. 1!». — Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society. Wednesday, Oct. 21. — Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a ♦ This is the name of a vck-cI whose arrival is noted on Nov. 8. It liad probablj' carried Mr. Hay from Gibraltar to Tangier, and then returned for the purpose of conveying Mr. Hay's son thitiier, on his arrival from F-^nfrJand. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 7 letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore ; but I must not surt'er such tritles to turn nic aside from my purpose. I shall prepare to start, if possible, on iMonday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou's clothes. Tiie Philosophical Meeting went oft' extremely well to-day, and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and the Society on Friday next. Friday, Oct. 23. — The lecture went off", I hope, pretty well. Saturday, Oct. •24. — Passed the morning in receiving visits of congra- tulation. I fear 1 am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect, will prove a bore. Thursday, Oct. 29. — Gave the second lecture, and then went to St. Michael's cave. Friday, Oct. 30. — At length I have made up my mind to start for Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purcliases. Saturday, Oct, 31. — Began arranging the means of going to Tetuan incog, with some fellow-travellers, who are to start the day after to- morrow. Monday, Nov. 2. — Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destina- tion. I now mean to go to Tangier. Tuesday, Nov. 3. — The tirst meeting of the Philosophical Society took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off" very well. Thursday, Nov. 5. — A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes down here with a, vengeance. Sunday, Nov. 8. — The weather still boisterous ; but, as the Jasseim has arrived, I must now tliink of starting in good earnest. Wednesday, Nov. 11. — Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off" to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is con- sidered a lucky day amongst the Turks. Timrsday, Nov. 12. — Bought presents; packed up, and sailed at twelve in the Jasseim. Met with baffling winds, and did not get in till twelve p.m. Friday, Nov. 13. — The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr. 8 NOTES TAKEN DURING Hay's, who was particularly kind ; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our tirst visit to the Governor, which was a very satis- factory one. Saturday, Xov. 14. — Got up early, and breakfiisted with Mr. Hay. The day cold but tine. ^Ve visited the castle and outskirts of the town and prison. Saw the armour, the town fountains, and Socco.* After lunch we went to the Raid, to whom we made our presents, and received in return mona — one sheep, twelve fowls, and one hundred eggs ; we then visited the tombs of the Sheiks, and returned by Vally. Sunday, Nov. 15. — We intended to start for Tetuan at six a.m ; but as usual, the tirst start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Mar- ranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom ; we counted not less tfian sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor- square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedoeedi, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and 1 contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors — their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourliood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our jourucy tiirough a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia,* which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there : but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we readied at length the house of one Coiien, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got tij) to receive us. Tiie thermometer at midnight stood at 40°, and we felt the cold very sensibly. Monday, Nov. 10. — We sent our letters to Mr. Solomon, and made • This is the Moorish name for ii ruarkct-placc. f Fantasia is said ofa (air iiitduiiil for pK-asiire only, ai)il not for business. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 9 arrangements to visit the Biisliii, a fine fat man, of the name of Ila- sliash. Our reception was most flattering. Fifty soldiers, ten nnder arms, together with liis horses and a wliite ninle sachlled, were tnrncd out to sahite us in the court-yard. He received us in liis kiosk, situated in a line garden and enlivened by a fountain. He had a heap of clothes of various iiues l)efore him. We were presented witli tea flavoured with ambergris, and other cups with verbenum in it, 6«:c. i>:c. There was likewise a mountain of dates, a Popocatepetl* of biscuit, and an Ossa of sugared almonds. The tea was actually poisoned with tlie cpiantity of sugar. We complimented him to his heart's content, and made our presents. He talked of his ladies " rard"\ and, after going over the palace, we went away much gratified, ^^'e then paid a visit to Ersini, the principal Moor of the place, whose house is very beautiful, and afterwards went to Mr. Levy's, which is very comfortable, and saw the dresses and ornaments of his lady, which were truly magnificent. We then j)araded the town. It is a large one, but, as usual, wretchedly dirty, and filled with dogs, &c. that act the part of scavengers. Of the bazars, the Algerine is the most inte- resting, where we bought a few things, and, after dining, drank tea with Mr. Levy. The town is well situated, is surrounded with beautiful gardens, and protected by very respectable fortifications ; its population is about forty thousand, of which the Jews form a fourth part. Tuesday, Nov. 17. — ^We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40°; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Snltiin and of the ka'i'd, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excava- tions and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Marina, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted : the * This is the name of the highest hill in the JNIexican Cordillera of the Andes, t LdM is Lad}' in Arabic, and r is sometimes substituted for /. C 10 NOTES TAKEN DURING civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board ; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country ; four to the one who took us from Tangier ; two for each of the mules ; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor ; one to his favourite soldier ; one to his master of the horse ; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers. Wednesday, Nov. 18. — Up at four a.m. Therm, 32°. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at tiie same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five p.m., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind. Thursday, Nov. 19. — The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42°. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian.* Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on. Friday, Nov. 20. — ^Therm.55°; muc hrain,and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit fmin tlie Taleb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sultan was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars ; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. 1 paid, likewise, tliree dollars for the translation. On tiie day previous there was nnicli lightning, which con- tinued through the night. Saturday, Nov.21. — The wind has veered round to the west. My fellow- travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, 1 have emi)loyed the day in writing and n^ceiving visits ; afterwards I walked out to the ruins of the old bri(l;,^e. Paraded the town of Tangier, which is no great things. 1 like Tetuan nuich better. 1 have been annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with which the bagpij)e is music itself, » Soil) tlicMS. TRAVELS IN AFRICA H have an accomj)animent of six drums ; a calf was killed at the door of the Caere where the bride is kept, like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called siuiiing- continued through the whole night. Sunday, Nov. 'i-i.— Up at daybreak ; tlie weather delightful. Went to see the party ofi'. Every one wanting something, although tlio word Imliksliish* was not heard; after much quarrelling and grundjling they"ot to their boat, and we said adieu ! Afterwards I went to the church, where I heard a good sermon, but found the congregation consisted of only two or three persons besides the family of the Consul-general. Saw the game oi'poivder-]- {lab-el-harod) played, myself on horseback and the DoctorJ on foot. Fell in with tlie procession of the marriage, the wild I{if§ and his long gun, the bride in her cage. The dancing and howling of the party, the horses, &c. &c. presented a most amusing, though somewhat fearful sight. Amongst many slighter accidents they almost blew up my house. I gave them some tea and sugar. During the revelry I saw many very pretty girls, who were ready enough to shew their faces when the Moors were not looking; many signs, too, were made, but to me they were quite unintelligible. How these people contrive to keep up their physical strength during two days and nights of continued exertion, I cannot understand. At a little after midnight, a black slave proclaimed that the bride was a virgin, in a manner that would frighten our ladies. The announcement w as received by vollies of musquetry. It is now all over, and glad I am, as I shall get a little rest. Monday, Nov. 23.— Therm. 60°. A brig has just arrived from Alexan- dria with two hundred Hajis; I am going to see them pass the officer of health. Such jumping, and such putting out of tongues here and there, such beatings and misery on many a countenance, while the contents of a living charnel-house are poured out. The basiia, the sheikh, and the beggar, are all upon an equality, and all looking equally wretched. As • This is a Persian word for a present, and, though common in Turkey, not used in Blorocco. t This is a kind of a tilt, where one party endeavours to unhorse the other. X Who the Doctor was is not told by iVIr. D. § This is the name of a province of Morocco. Two of the Rif guns were sent to London and are in the possession of Mr. D.'s brother. C 2 12 NOTES TAKEN DURING the tide had flowed up while we were inspecting these poor wretches, we got j)erniission to pass through the batteries, w hich are but poor things. They are mounted witii guns of everj' calibre and all kinds of metal ; some are, however, very beautiful. There are two fine mortars, and the beds for two others. I walked out with Mr. Hay and the cap- tain of the port, the Doctor, the interpreter, Ibn Sur, and his highness theSheikh. The strong lines of contrast which the scene presented afforded us no little amusement. There have been more Hajis this year than were ever known. They are allowed to pass free through the different countries, and are permitted to carry with them an investment, up to three hundred dollars ; but for any sum beyond this a tax is levied, according to the means of the party. The Jews are compelled to take off their slippers when passing a street in which there is a mosque ; they must not ride an ass through this town ; they are, however, the general merchants, and act as interpreters. The Mueddins* here are a better class of people than tliose who perform the same office in Egypt and Syria. The foun- tain is pretty, but going to decay. The castle is weak, and its whole ajjpcarance wretched. T purchased a dress, not a very handsome one, but it was cheap. I got my /lai/c for five dollars, slippers for one and a-half dollar, and boots for two dollars. The zulham here answers to the iorwM* of Egypt ; the jeldb'it/ah are merely coarse sacks, with holes in them for the arms to pass through. Tuesday, Nov. 24. — Saw the rest of the Hajis, and consulted with Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey. ^^'ednesday, Nov. 25. — Therm. 02°. Took my first lesson in Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old government- iiouse. Anotlier wedding in the evening, but, thank Heaven ! it was a little further ofl'. Friday, Nov. 27. — Therm. 02°. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmospiiere is such as frequently prec(Ml(!s an eartliquake. Saturday, Nov. 28. — Weather line and clear. Walked much about ; • Persons attached to a mosque, whose business is to call ihu I'aithi'ul to prayers. The word is pronounced .Mu-edkdhin by the Arabs, and Mu-ezzin by the Turks, Persians, and Indians TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 13 went to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or three patients. AM tells me, that a white Sherif has been makinj; iii(|iiiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is a tree of refuge. Sunday, Nov. 29.— Went to church, and afterwards walked to the market, and then to the kaid's. At night there was a severe storm. Therm. GG°. Monday, Nov. .'JO.— Tiierm. 60°. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning. I had a little dealing for a Rif gun, but the fellow, after having sold it, would not let the Ciiristian have it; and yet the moun- taineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word ; he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made their appear- ance ; and, as the deatii-cry has been often heard, I am very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me. Tuesday, Dec. 1.— Therm. 62°. It is still wet, but very seasonable weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well, I walked out towards p.m. As the question of payment is coming on again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must make up for it. Wednesday, Dec. 2.— Therm. 58°. The Americans do not go up to Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope, nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off. Thursday, Dec. 3.— Start to-morrow for the Autset.* I find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch. Friday, Dec. 4.— Rose early, hoping to start for the Autset ; but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure till to-morrow. Saturday, Dec. -j. — Started at eight, after the usual quarrelling, • Tills was a place so called by its modern name: its former one was Emsdrah, as stated a little farther on. It is properly Autad (pegs or stakes), but the Moors often confound I and tk, which latter they generally pronounce ts. The long d has often the sound of ^, and the final d becomes t. 14 NOTES TAKEN DURING which ahiiost came to blows. Mounted Mr. Hay's fine grey Diikkalah horse. Mr. J. Hay rode on horseback with me. We Avere accompanied by a soldier, who would liave made a fine picture. "Poco 7icgro; cavalo hlanco;ahito de nada ! ningtin color ." Ben Kayed and Susa were on the sumpter mules. In this style we wended our way to the Fez gate. We passed various collections of huts, dignified with the title of villages, and bearing names composed of high-sounding words, ^^'e fell in with the Sheikh of Arzilla ; he was a fine-looking fellow and very civil, and asked us to a wedding at a neighbouring village, where he promised us a good deal of amusement. Declining his offers of hospitality, we proceeded on our journey through a very fine country, but much neglected, and bearing marks of misery everywhere. We passed by two large stones placed on the brow of a. hill ; they are said to be the bodies of a man and his wife, who were turned into stones for attempting to shorten the ceremony of marriage. When opposite to JebelHabib (beloved mountain), we struck off to the right to see some large ruins. The original buildings were the work of Christians, for the purpose of commanding a pass. Two villages have been formed out of tiie ruins. We stopped at a well for a few minutes, and, alter passing through several Daw ars,* we halted for the night at an Arab encampment on the top of a hill, at five p.im. We had traversed a very rich country, intersected with various rivers, w hich we fi»und it no ]>leasant thing to ford, and were hardly ever off our horses. As soon as it was known that I was a doctor, I w as retpu-sted to go to an Arab tent, a cpiarter of a-mile ofl", to see a little girl. This was an event of distressing interest, as few Christians have ever been inside the tent of an Aral). There I saw tiie mother and grandmother of a fine little girl ; she was past all human aid. To allay the severity of the convulsions, I gave some doses of calomel and .James's powders, but without the least benefit, as she died at michiigiit. The failure, liowever, did not lessen their confidence in my skill, in the morning I had a iiost of patients; it seemed as if the wiiole people were sick. A singular instance of Nyctalopia ocfiincd in (he case of a fine little boy, who could see most distinctly in the nigiit, but was stone blind during the day. I told tlie • Adwdr, or daw'ir ; it is used to signify a village ; it is properly a circular ciKvaii])nicnt. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 15 father to bring him to Tangier, and I vvouhl see what I could do for him. Having picketed our liorses, we got up our tent, and went early to our carpet, whicii is the travelling bed in the East. Sunday, Dec. 0. — We felt vt-ry cold, though the tiierm. was 40°. We found the hoar-frost outside the tent. After a ride of two hours over a, beautifully undulating country, we arrived atEmsorah,* or, as the modern village is called, the Autset, from whence we had a fine view of the lesser Atlas. At the foot of the rising ground, where we had pitched our tent, was a magnificent plain, and on the side of the hill is situated El Uted, or the peg-rock. The people here were looking very sickly. I had a patient in the Sheikh, a great fat man, to whom I gave a large dose of wine and cayenne, to produce the effect for which the application was so general. The population amounts to only two hundred, or thereabouts; they never ta.ste flesh, but live entirely on bread and water, vegetables, and miserable Anskusit.-]^ Coming round the side of a hill, you perceive several stones forming a circle,;}; of which one, called the Peg, is much higher than the rest ; there is, likewise, a second circle, but a third is never to be seen. The whole neighbourhood is full of similar circles of stones, but smaller. Many of the latter have been worked artificially. The entrance to the circle, which is fifteen feet wide, faces the west ; on the north and south of the Peg are two other openings at equal distances. At about the distance of two hundred feet, there is a stone placed at an angle of 45°, intended it is said to mark the opening ; it is six feet high, and by lying on the back, one can see directly through the circle. From this stone a shelving road leads to a well called 'A'in tayyeb (good spring). But the chief tradition of the place relates to the gold-treasure said to be con- cealed here. The poor creatures sleep upon this stone in all weathers, and they were delighted to see the compass going round while we • For Mesbrah or Musavvwesah (sculptured). \ This is a dish of grain, rice, &c. prepared as food for the common people, which they eat in immense quantities. It appears to be not unlike the pildd, the favourite dish of the Turks. X The following account cannot fail to strike those who have seen or heard of the circles at Stonehenge. 1(J NOTES TAKEN DURING Avere taking the bearings of the place, for they fancied tliat the gold turned as the needle did. One old woman patted me on the back, and said, " Now make us rich, — now find the gold." It would be cruel to undeceive them. I offered money for all the iron and copper they brought me, and I told them they were welcome to all the gold and .sih er they could find. I purchased two coins : an old piece of the handle of a bucket was brought me, together with a nail ; of course they were not worth a farthing. One account attributes the erection of the stones to Pharaoh ; by others it is said that there was once a large city there, subsequently buried, and that what remains is only the top. 1 think it has been a large place, and I would willingly pay for exploring it. The people say, it was the city of a giant race, who were of such a size that the shin-bone of a woman formed a bridge over the stream. The elk horn in Ireland.* The 'Arakin on the E.S.E. are five large stones, one of whch is like a coffin ; but I think it is too solid to have ever answered that purpose. On the W.N.W. there are five others, each forming a sort of vestibule to the side entrances mentioned abo\ e. At the centre entrance the stones lie flat on the ground. It appears to have been a great place of resort for religious purposes, and the various circles t(» lia\ e been the various spots selected for the performance of religious rites. The circle is 030 feet ; the Peg 16| feet high, and 6^ in circumfe- rence ; the larger entrance is lo feet wide ; at the distance of 1 12 feet on the E.S.E. and W.N.W. sides are two other entrances, f) feet wide, and the semi-diameter of the circle is 74 feet. We walked through the village and made friends of the ladies, by giving them and their children each a small piece of money. In this way we expended three or four more (Idllars tliaii tlie [)lace possessed previously. We had the whole village following us, and were obliged to use our wiiips to keep off the people and dogs. Our own dinner, and the supj)er of tlie attendants, the two tents, with the soldier mentioned above and his white horse, our own horses and mules, together with the miserable population in the back- ground, would have made an interesting group for a picture. Monday, Dec. 7. — Therm. 50°. The rain conunenced al)0ut nine last * Mr. D. seems toalliulc lure to .i similar tradition in some part of Irt-laiul. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 17 niglit, and got tliroiigh our tents at half-past eleven, which made us very miserable. Our guard was drenched to the skin. A hawk, a large toad, himdreds of spiders, and thousands of small vermin, took refuge under our tents ; and under myself crept a beetle, and a toad under the head of my companion. Finding ourselves so much the worse for the rain,' we determined upon returning to Tangier, and to abandon our intended visit to Arzilla, and the wedding. The road we took presented scenery more l)eautiful than the other. We saw the encampment of the Bedouins, who used to conduct the pilgrims to Mecca : they now go by sea to Egypt. Could I not make these people of service to me ? The soldier who came from the dmvarH* to collect the money for the feast, has returned. We got off before light, and crossed one river, although we had some doubts of being able to get over ; at the second, our horses were nearly swimming. I was much wetted, as my legs were too long. The weather, howe\ er, cleared up as we proceeded ; and when we reached Tangier, at half-past three, a good dinner and a bottle of sherry, under the hospitable roof of our kind friend, brought us all round again, after an excursion of three days spent very pleasantly. Wednesday, Dec. 9. — Therm. 54". Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay by the Wad Bi'i Bdrah, called also Jews'-river, along the ruins of the aqueduct, called El Kantarah, and by the bridge up to Mount Wash- ington. The I'oad lay through a stiff clay, containing a large quantity ol iron, of an ore-like f incrustation. The house and garden at Mount Wasliington must have been at one time very beautiful ; but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed. Thursday, Dec. 10. — A lovely day. The weather seems to have become settled again. Therm. 51°. Friday, Dec. 11.— The air cold, but clear. Therm. 47°. The Rifman, whose gun, he said, would kill a Christian, even if he were in heaven, brought a white zulham for six dollars, and a Rifi gun for eight and a-half dollars. Walked out to the Moorish burial-ground to see the * Adwaratie, i.e. villages. f Specimens of the ore were sent to the Royal Institution. 18 NOTES TAKEN DURING women. They liave a strange custom here of putting two circular pieces of red leather, dotted with black spots, upon each cheek. It produces, however, not a bad effect. The present is the period for Moorish weddings. A Moorish lady of the highest class never leaves her liouse for twelve months after her marriage ; those of the middling not till six months ; and even those of the lowest confine themselves for three months. The Jewess never leaves the sleeping-room for a week, and then ojily to dine with the family : she keeps the house for three months. Saturday, Dec. 12. — Therm. 50°. The wind east, and with signs of rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four weeks since I sent my letter to the Sultan. I do not feel very well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert in the evening ; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the people. At night there was a heavy storm. Sunday, Dec. 13. — Therm. 48°. Went to church at the consul's. Received an answer from the Sultan. It was accompanied by one to El Ilajj Es-sidi, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect ; to apprize the other governors and kii'ids that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality ; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a ka'id, for whom he had sent money ; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction. Monday, Dec. 14. — Therm. oO°. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up. Tuesday, Dec. lo. — Therm. 56°. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes. ^^ ednesday, Dec. 16. — Therm. 50°. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to [)ay the Sultan's escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent> and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rabat. Heavy gale, annal was made on the right wing ; and after much noise and confu- sion we captured one of the Zairi, whose rebellion had made the escort necessary. The fellow was found concealed in the bushes. No sooner was he taken, than he made a sign to the Audaya' that lie iiad been seized by the people of Rabat, and claimed the protection of his own tribe. A signal was made, and the Audaya' separated from the party. Others taking their place began to prepare their guns for action. I was highly delighted with the bustle of the scene, and hoped to see some- thing of a fight ; but my kd'id rode into the midst of them, and, after appealing to me, and asking what account I should give to the Sultan, allayed the rising spirit of quarrel, to my great disappointment. We met a celebrated saint on horseback, followed by sixty people. All stopped to ask his blessing, and even I came in for the performance of a similar act. With two saints in company we picked up Hasan and some women on the road ; and I was now told that the escort sent with me to-day was all a humbug. A little after one, while rounding a lieau- tiful bay, upon one side of which we saw about two hundred cavalry drawn up,* we met a caravan going to Rabiit. The change of escort was beautiful. I rode up to the commander of the troops on the hill, who had his banner flying, and gave and received the usual compli- ments. He tried to humbug me by saying that he had come on purpose to add about sixty to our escort, as I was a friend of the Sultan's. After giving some private directions to my kaid I took leave ; but 1 was scarcely a mile off, when two horsemen came galloping up to ask me for a small present, just to wash the governor's clothes."] I gave * It is probable that, as the news of Mr. D.'s journey to Morocco had preceded him, the chief, who met him on this occasion, had, like many others, come with the view of extorting a present in return for the civility shown to an English traveller. f This is probably a Moorish expression, to denote a trifling present. 30 NOTES TAKEN DURING them two dollars; but 1 was disgusted with the man, although he certainly drew up his troops in a ring, and made them cry out for the Sultan. We then crossed a small stream. The country is diversified with low and beautiful shrubs. On all the heights around troops were stationed, who constantly relieved our escort. We next arrived at a river, the Sheradi,* which we forded. Two blackguards, however, demanded a toll for each biped and quadruped, but me and mine. There was here a large dawar, where we changed entirely our escort, taking the troops of the Audaya' — a change much for the w orse. Our road lay along the coast until we halted, at half-past fi\ e, at a large dawar, of which I could not learn the name. Our encampment formed a pretty picture. My own marquee was first pitched ; on the right of it the kaid's, on the left those of the soldiers, in front Hasan's black tent, and in the rear the large tent of the muleteers, with the baggage and the animals, form- ing a circle. The camels and caravan were put in the inside of the dawar. One of the soldiers rode down a leveret, and picking it up with his gun, brought it to me alive. It was my intention to have fasted, but as this would have hurt the feelings of the donor, I had it cooked. A monnah was brought, with an apology for its being so small ; tlie poor fellows stating that tliey had been driven from their homes. This was the Ihst day in which I felt somewhat lonely. ^^'ednesday, Jan. (J. — Therm. 50°, with symptoms of rain. We found many traces of tlie wild boar. Tiie road was covered with duri'i, which has replaced the kelakh, now becoming more rare. We started a wolf. We were hardly well on the road when it began to pour torrents of rain, which lasted for three hours. All our things were soaked through and through. We passed over two streams, along a large causeway, througii the ruins of Alansoriyahf and the town of Fedah, where a road turns ofl" for Morocco, and continued our route to Darel Beida (the white house), where we pitched our teats outside the town, at the recommendation of our kaid. No sooner, however, were our tents up, tiian I was summoned to visit the prince, who compelled us to strike the tents and to come into the town for our better protection, owing to the unsafe state of the * So ill thu iii,i|) ; ill tlie MS. ' Sheivra or Slicraga." + In the map, Man'-:oria.' TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 31 country. He pointed out a spot opposite the palace. Mul^i flamed,* the son of tlie Emperor of Morocco, is a poor puny boy. I was received with all tlie honours. The guard was picked and well mounted. Abu was sent for, and our monna/i was extravagant : it included a camel. I felt rather the worse for the wetting. Thursday, Jan. 0. — Therm. 45°. Late in getting off. We left this ruin of a town, and part of our moniiah, which the soldiers had sold. We passed through a level and uninteresting country, till eleven a.m., when we halted for a few minutes on a most beautiful plot of ground, carpeted with wild flowers. We then entei-ed a large forest of dura ; and then halted a second time at an old w ell of bad water, full of small tortoises. We con- tinued our route through the wood, but finding we could not reach our station before dark, we took up our quarters for the night amongst some Arab tents placed as a guard. As we had nothing to eat, botli men and cattle were compelled to keep Ramadan. The whole party sulky, and out of spirits. I sent some soldiers to levy contributions on the neigh- bourhood. A mysterious lady was here riding an immense camel; 1 could not, however, get a peep at her face. At this place we saw a camel and an ox harnessed to the same plough. Finding persuasions of no avail, I tried another tack, and tied up six of the poor Arabs, to force them to tell w here they kept their barley. We got a little for the horses and mules. My soldiers will not pitch their tents, having to keep guard all night. There appear some symptoms of a quarrel. Our encampment was curious, but the situation beautiful. Several Jewish families are claiming my protection, and all sleep is out of the question. Friday, Jan. 7. — Therm. -50°. All my people grumbling, and the sol- diers very ill. The rain came down in torrents, and at two a.m. found its way tinough the tents. My misery commenced at four. My great object was to keep myself dry, and to save my zulliam and carpet. We did not get off till seven : it was too dark to proceed earlier. Passed through a wooded country similar to that of yesterday. At half-past nine a hurri- * For Ahmed a transposition of letters common among the Moors, wlio say Embarek, for Mobarek ; Imhammed for iMohammed, &c. .'V2 NOTES TAKEN DURING cane came on from the sea, Avhich nearly Ijlew our mules over. We were obliged to get under the bushes for shelter. We were all wetted to the skin. At eleven a.m. it cleared up, when we came upon an immense extent of ruins and a burial-ground, that took us half an hour to pass through. There were the tombs of seven sheikhs, two of which were very beautiful. At half-past twelve we saw Azam6r in the distance, and soon arrived at the river Omm rabi' (the mother of herbage). The stream was running very fast, and was nearly as wide as the Thames at London. It was higlily coloured with i-ed earth, and abounds with slubbel. After some time we contrived to cross it. No sooner was I fairly landed on the opposite bank, than I was pestered to death to go up to the governor's ; but, being in a sulky humour, doggedly refused. Rode round the town, which, externally, is rather pretty, but within, the dir- tiest place I have ever seen. This, I understand, arises from the immense number of cattle kept in the neighbourhood, all of which are driven into the streets of the city at night, and a perfect Augean stable they make of it. The governor was for squeezing presents out of me. I was very cool. He began by the usual compliments, and stated that he had given directions for the encampment. I told him that I expected a house. This he then ofl'ered ; but I determined to encamp outside the town. Tlie soldier who went for the baggage has called for a present. This I refused, and sent a message to the governor, to say that I have been badly received, and shall mention this to tlie Sultan. Ujion hearing this, tlie iiovernor sent for Cohen in a great hurry. 1 am determined to have my way, and if Cohen plays his cards well he may gain a bribe. He returned with an immense monnuli of sheep, fowls, eggs, butter, sugar, sweetmeats, candles, &c. The sin-prise of these people that a Christian can do what I have done for Abu exceeds all conception.* The governor wishes me to remain here to-morrow ; after which lie is going up and will atcouii)aiiy me to Morocco. We are all knocked up, and 1 • All travellers in Morocco agree in stating that Christians arc held there in the greatest detestation ; nor could the Moors understand the motives that led Mr. D. to act the kindly part he did towards Abu. who had been at once a Musulnian, a negro, and a slave. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 33 must therefore consent. The tent is wet through and through, and my situation miserable in the extreme. Saturday, Jan. H. — Therm. 51°. l^earned the difference between a wrettiied and comfortable night. The morning beautiful, with every sign of a fine day. Busy in drying our things. Went to see the governor in the sainted suburb, which is quite another place from the city. Here is the kubhdh or zawiyah of thefamed SidiMAli!-! Abu Shu'eib.* The governor improves upon accpiaintance. Four Euro[)eanscame to pay a visit while I was there : luckily they are not Englishmen, although one is the English agent. All took off their boots and shoes, and one beast crawled on his knees to kiss the kaid's hands. It is such humiliating conduct that lowers us in the eyes of this people. Had I seen Mr. Garcia take off his hat, I should have remonstrated with him. Cohen tells me that he did so. 1 would have a chair, and I moved my hat both on entering and leaving. The governor asked me to go and see his son, who was very ill, and far advanced in a dropsy. I ordered him some medicine, but it will be of little use, as I cannot stop to attend to him, and the people here are not to be trusted with two doses of any thing [for fear, it would seem, of their giving both at once]. The gardens are beautiful, and there is a good deal of manual labour expended on their cultivation. I kept myself confined to my tent for two hours, before 1 could get the people to send for the medicine I had prescribed for a man who was nearly dying. The governor received a visit from Mr. Garcia, Hamed and two other Nasa- ras, together with one Don Pedro, the principal merchant at Mazagan. Therm, in the sun stood at 70°, and at one p.m. touched upon 80°. The governor has sent to know at what time I should like to start to-morrow, and tlie four Europeans want me to come round by Mazagan. The his- tory of the governor's life is a curious one. He was originally a fisher- man on the Umra rabi', and can neither read nor write. Before the Sultan came to the throne he was in great distress for a small sum of money. The fisherman possessed the finest horse in the country: this • " Azammor of Sheikh Shu'eib," says Abii-l-Feda in his Geography of Africa, page 4. F 34 NOTES TAKEN DURING he sold, and carried the money to 'Abd-er-rahmun Ben Hashera, and thus relieved him from his difficulties. No sooner was he Sultan of Morocco than he made the fisherman governor of Azamor ; and the latter has continued ever since a great favourite. He is very rich, and greatly beloved. Azamor, possessing the sacred fauxhourg with the tombs of Mulei Bii Shu'eib, swarms Avith impostors in the shape of saints, fakirs, &c. I received a visit from one of these fellows, who said that he came to see his son, and brought with him a handful of bad dates ; but 1 soon sent him off. This, iiowever, did not prevent a swarm of them from pestering me. But I bade my soldiers tell them that I would give tliem nothing : they could and sliould work, or go to those who believed in them. The school-boys next came with their boards: to these I gave a few ounces, and begged to be left alone. Patients then, out of number, w ith diseases that were never heard of, next besieged my (juarters ; these were followed by the ladies, the hardest of all to satisfy. The rear was brought up by the minstrels, whose music was as noisy as their words were nonsensical. Tired of Azamor, I could have performed the journey to Morocco on foot in three days ; but I had tw^enty-seven animals and thirty people to feed, and one can stop only whei'e provi- sions are to be found. To these must be added the governor s party, which, men and beasts together, exceeded two hundred liead. To-mor- row we enter the province of Dukkiilah. Towards night-fall there was a great squabble outside the tent, and 1 was obliged to go to Cohen's rescue. The kiiid of Azam6r wished me to take a present, consisting of fowls, sugar, and wax-candles, for my attendance on his son: lliis n>y kaid and soldiers said would be deducted from their nionnah. Upon this flit re arose a good deal of contention. As the monna/i was for myself alone, 1 (iiid 1 iiave done wrong in giving them any of it, for they now claim the whole. I will be a match for them yet. There has been already a great deal of chaffing about the sale of a sheep-skin this morning, which fetched seven-pence, and the soldiers could not agree about the division ofthf mom y. Tlirough the fear of being devoured by the dogs, that are TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 35 more fierce and numerous here than in any other place, I packed up again, hoping to start liy day-break; and though I do not like travelling on a Sunday, any thing is better than remaining here. Sunday, Jan. f). — Therm. 47°. The weather cold. Tried hard to get off before the Mazazan* party and the governor, but failed to do so. I had got rid of the first, when a soldier of the governor came to see why we were not enroute. We found him on a hill that overlooks Mazazan, with an escort of sixty horse, his camels and baggage having gone before. We rode through his gardens, the soil of which was very rich, and, after exchanging compliments, he took the lead. The road there leaves the sea, and runs E.S.E. to Morocco. It was lined with people desirous to shew respect to him ; the women screaming, their scarfs and kerchiefs tied to reeds by way of banners ; the school- boys, with their boards, and the saints seated along the side of the road ; a man riding by the side of the governor, distributing money. We reached our place of encampment at two P.M., having been met by the Sheikh and some of his people from the dau'dr, at which we are to stop. The encampment looked very beau- tiful. The governor's tent, with his red and green standard, and twenty other tents ; mine with four ; and as fresh parties were continually arriv- ing till it was dark, the whole number could not have been less than from two to three hundred. My own people are anxious not to continue with the governor. I had a great row with them, and threatened to send them off. They will, however, return to their senses, as they like the monnuh and their ease; but to-night I have kept it all to myself, and they have become very good. Read the evening service and 10th chapter of the Acts. Received lots of patients, and a visit from two of the descendants of the famed Mul^'i Bu Shu'eib. Monday, Jan, 10. — Therm. 50°. Signs of rain. Tried hard, but failed to get off before the governor. Our caravan is now above three hundred. The road was lined the same as yesterday. The soil was one of great fer- tility. By a gradual ascent we entered Dukkalah, celebrated for its breed of horses. Indeed both men and cattle are finer here than in any otlier * Properly Mazighan. F 2 36 NOTES TAKEN DURING part of the empire. At 10 a.m. we saw Jebel Khadr, rising from an almost boundless plain. At 11 we lialted for a few minutes at a lovely spot, where thei'e were palm-trees and a spring of water. We then, by a steep ascent, came upon a second plateau, from which we had a magnifi- cent view of Mount Atlas covered with snow. We halted for the night at the mesalla of Bu Sanawerer, who was a gi-eat saint. The wind was so high that we w ere in great fear lest the tent should be carried away. The vionnah was very late in coming, and I was obliged to turn story-teller to keep the people in good humour, and afterwards threatened the Sheikh of the dau-ar. The weather cold. Tuesday, Jan. 11. — Therm. 47°. At da\ -break I was surrounded by patients, men, women, and children; compelled to use sticks to keep them off. There was a large market in the open air. Could it be believed that my party allowed the whole caravan to move off while I was engaged with my patients. They lost their way in the immense plain, which is within a few days' journey of Morocco. I went on to Gherando ; from a \ illage at the foot of which the governor came out to meet the kaid of Azamor. Quantities of powder wasted, and no little hallooing and screaming. We encamped outside the town ; here tea was sent with three different sets of china, fire, &c. &c. ; thin bread and butter; then hot victuals, and tlicn the monnah. I was never so sick of the sight of food. Received many patients; amongst them the govei-nor, who came early. Wednesday, Jan. 12. — Tiierm. fjO". Upas soon as the moon rose, with the view of getting to Suwainiyah this evening. Dispatched two soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sultan of my arrival, and to learn where 1 Mas to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get off. It is plain that my ki'iid wants to make another day of it. To prevent this, 1 stiirted, and took my baggage mules, to spite liiem ; found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. T have, iiowever, frightt^Knl tliem, and we halted at Suwainiyah, where I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We readied Suwainiyah about 5 imm.; a large encamp- ment was Ik re before us, and the kAid (jf Azamorhad still to come up. We TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 37 pitched oiir tents near the aqueduct anti tank, with some tents from Fez, and at about 100 yards from the kAid of Azam6r. The same immense phiin as the one mentioned l)efore was covered with agates and jaspers ; there were no trees, but a great (juantity of a strong slirub. 1 felt a pre- sentiment that something would happen ; I therefore took down my sword and looked at my pistols, and turnetl in early, although not sleepy. Thursday, Jan. 13. — Therm. 50°. I was right in my conjecture. At half- past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom J had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste, and a fellow called 'Abd el Kerim stated that he saw a man run between them. We turned in again, and at four a.m. poor Abu came to me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The kaid, in whose tent he had been sleep- ing as usual, could not account for the loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I should wait till daybreak. I then dis- patched all but three mules, and determined to go to the kaid of Azam6r; but as the people assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my kaid, the soldier on the white horse, and 'Abd el Kerim. Another kaid, who had (he command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up came the remainder of the party with AbiVs jacket, but no watch in it They said they had found it near the tank, and my k^iid asked, with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop, as it was God's will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by bidding him come immediately to the kaid of Azam6r, whom we had overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sultan and his troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed theTensif by el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my kaid and 'Abd el Kerim in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules. 38 NOTES TAKEN DURING They passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier w ith a lad, who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point out the spot ; but when he waslet go, I felt sure that he was not the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person w ho was sent by the Sultan to bid me welcome and to conduct me to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch, and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen Abi't put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under his head, and that 1)6 had so slept during the whole journey. The boy likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while 'Abd el Kerim said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the l)lood of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared iiutliiug for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived at the gardens of Mulai Musa at four p.m., after making the circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came first to demand a present, then the kaid, who had conducted me, and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The Sheikh of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what I wanted ; and as I am unfortu- nately to live at the Sultan's expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if 1 had to buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were empty. In my way to tliis ])lace I had passed the village of le{)ers, and a sad sight it was. I tiien got rid of all the people, and hiid down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep, sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco. Friday, Jan. 1 4. — Here in the ruined palace of Miilai M6s^, situated in a garden on the south side of the city of Morocco, but within the walls, am i a sort of state prisoner. My large audi4°. Evident symptoms of a change of weather. I got uj) early to visit the bashaw ; wliile 1 was out of the room, he told Cohen that I should be well paid if I cured him, and expressed no little surprise when he heard I would not take any thing. Returned home, and received another message from the Sultan, to go to see the Kaid of Shragna. Feel very ill. I ha\ e now two great out-door patients, and at home I found such a crowd that 1 could hardly get into the house. Amongst the rest were four very finely-dressed Moorish women, one of whom would conceal nothing. I fear I cannot do much for them, and but little for the Jewesses, who came in shoals. IVly stock of medicines is diininishiiig fast. Went in tlie evening to the minister, by wliom I was couipliinented highly. He had seen (jlrenade and his son, who had come to witness the art and mystery of compounding medicines. The minister told me I was to go when and where I pleased. He requested also to know whether 1 preferred riding on a mule or a horse, as hi.s master wished to make lue a present. I told liim that J had always found a mule the most useful in my journey. I then otltred TRAVELS IN AFRICA. ■■ 47 to have the Physicians Vade Meciim translated. He next asked me if 1 would settle at Marocco, and proposed my bringing my wife and family there; said that the Sultan would like me to remain for ten months; that I should go every where, see every thing, and that I might have two months to return to England. I replied that it was impossible for me to do so, as I was to be absent from England eighteen months, six of w hich had already elapsed, and the rest was to be devoted to further travelling. I then went to the Kaid of Magodor. He was pumping me; so I gave him some clear water and stopped him.* I find he is a bit of a diplomatist, and has been set on to worm out my design in coming here. He talked nmch of Mr. Wiltshire, so I must be on my guard. Thursday, Jan. 28. — Therm. 54°. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. 1 have not even time to take refresh- ment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister ; neither the conver- sation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the Kdid of Mogador. Friday, Jan. 29. — Therm. 57°. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw's heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, lemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there Kaid M(isa; afterwards visited Kaid Abdallah,froni whom 1 heard much of the high favour J was in with the Sultan. Went in the evening to see Kaid Jeliibi, and on my return home found poor Ab6 very ill, with symptoms of dysentery. * Mr. D. is here speaking metaphorically. He conceived that the Kaid of Mogador wished to get at his motive for visiting Timbuctoo ; he therefore gave him no clue, by say- ing nothing on the subject. It is a slang metaphor. 48 NOTES TAKEN DURING Saturday, Jan. 30. — Therm 55°. Went early to Kiiid Abdallah, and thence to Kaid Musa, and then to El'Arabi, wliile three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my Kaid, I went to the Meshwa, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into tlie presence of the Sultan, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which 1 was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sultan ; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sultan's present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came tliick upon me, w hile my Kaid was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten a.m. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn ; and that I was to have one or a Inmdred soldiers, as 1 liked, aiul might go w here 1 pleased. Sunday,. Jan. .'Jl. — Therm. 54°. My patient, the K;iid, getting better, I went at ten p.m. to visit the Sultan, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent hon)e with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jelabi : prescribed for both. Met with sonu' patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead ciiildren in the womb for years. Went again to Kaid Jelabi, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of 'I'iemsiu was l.rought in seven days, \\liicli was considered quite wonderful. A telegrapli would have done it in seven minutes. 1 had scarcely finished reading the service. TRAVELS IN AFRICA, 49 when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do nie honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past mi(hiight. The Sheik of the Jews, and otiiers, were however highly deligiited, and the beasts will remain continuing; the noise till morning. 1 took up a fellow who had insultejl me ; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I per- sisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh ! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas ! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day. Monday, Feb. 1. — Therm. 50". Before I was up, Haji Hassan, the Sultan's tea-maker, was here from the palace with mules to take me to Ben Ibrahim, called the Sultan's Heart. I found him on the eve of departure; prescribed some medicines; gave directions about his diet. He would make me accept a luiik and a snlliam, the fabric of Dukalah, of which place he is the Kaid. I then went to the Kaid of El 'Arabi, who was not so well. From thence to Sidi Mohammed, the Sultan's father- in-law, who gave Cohen three dollars as a fee. I then went off to the Sultdn's, where I remained two hours to set about making some syrup of violets, which I am to finish to-morrow. I ordered a saddle and bridle, and gave Kaid 'All half a-dollar a-day to break-in my horse, who is very unmanageable. Have been hard at work all the afternoon in preparing a plaster for the Kaid of El 'Arabl's arm and shoulder. It is a sad business. He is really very bad. But at the palace they will all have physic. Saw the chief eunuch, a very old man ; had lots of fun with him. I shall have to examine the second eunuch to-morrow. I was asked to look at the gate-keeper's foot : it was in a state of mor- tification. The cold in the • I have refused to attempt to touch, and have made many enemies by it ; but I have some little character to lose. Every body here is sadly dispirited by the fall of Tlemsan.t • So in llie original MS., with a blank. f Tiiis was taken by the French during their attack on Algiers. H 50 NOTES TAKEN DURING Hon- I contrive to stand all this work I know not. I am extremely anxious to be off again. Tuesday, Feb. 2. — Saw to-day more of the city than ever ; the gun- powder manufactory, and the leather-dressing. The powder is made in the open air. Within four large mounds of earth, all kinds of offal, the carcases of camels, dogs, &c. are left to putrify, for the purpose of yielding the nitre. Their process is a very simple one, and the powder not bad. Some of the fair sex look very comely in the street. My soldiers got a dollar a-piece for carrying the medicine. Went after Adaj to see Sadik, Abus namesake. Such a set of beasts I have never seen as I met at his house : he would have me take a sulham from him, which I gave to Cohen. Saw lots of the fair sex, and one poor devil of a renegade, for whom, however, I could do nothing but give him some pezetas. Went to the palace, where I found many patients. One of the Sultan's children was sent to me with a message from its mother ; but I will not prescribe without seeing her. I remained at tlie palace four hours, working at a syrup of violets and preparing things for the Sultan. Was asked to eat and drink, but refused every tiling, except water. When I returned home three different cargoes of food were sent ; but I have been worked too much to have any appetite. Thank heaven, many of the Sultan's friends are going away. For some days past 1 liave been compelled to neglect the poor Jews. Wednesday, Feb. 3.— Therm. 57°. Went early to Adaj. Not so well. Pilnla et haustus.* Returned home, and found a greater crowd than ever ; mostly women. The story of the dead child was repeated by some dozen of them. A very pretty creatiu-e from Tangier was afllicted with a strange complaint. My examination of the women is a bitter pill for the Moors; the women, iiowever, are liighly delightotl. 1 am much puzzled with tlie pretty Jewess and her husband ; it is the seventh year of her marriage, and he can put her away if she has no child. I gave them each sometliing to take : it satisfies them and can do no harm ; and 1 have buoyed up the man with hopes, although, by all accounts, the fault lies with him. Too tired to write my letters, which is the more * Took a pill and a draught. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 51 provoking, as couriers are going daily : have seen above sixty patients to-day. My own health, I find, is suffering from having too much to think of; I hope, however, tiiat I have done some good. The case, or rather the result of the diagnostic by the egg and blood is obtained by the process following : — take an egg laid on a Thursday, write upon it iiij yijg (t'oo8t)99 tXF''"y* tact; put the egg in the moon and dew; break it in the morning : if you find blood in it, the patient will die ; if no blood, he will recover ; and if he does, he must write upon the ceiling a verse of the Koran, which is not to be carved previously, nor is he to use any light to write it by, &c. Thursday, Feb. 4. — Therm. 54°. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients ; suffering from want of rest : am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary coniplaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions ; returned home, too ill to sleep. Friday, Feb. 5. — Therm. 52°. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well : 1 am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sultdn. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sultan to-morrow. Saturday, Feb. G. — Therm. 57°. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben AH to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week ; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews' weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr.Willshire. Sunday, Feb. 7. — Therm. 50°. Felt too ill to go to Adaj. Cohen brought good accounts. Read the prayers, and afterwards went to the palace. Saw the Hb-ah, who will die ; had some differences with the Sherif, and sent a message to the Sultan : saw Sidi Ben All, who promised to pay me a visit this evening, but as he did not come, I took a light dinner at 7, afterwards wrote some letters, and letired early to * These letters make the nearest approach to the marks in the MS. H 2 52 NOTES TAKEN DURING rest. Very cold. To a message from the Sultdn, requiring to know if I had every thing I wanted, I sent an answer in writing. Monday, Feb. 8. — Tlierm. 54°. Went to Jelabi ; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well ; returned home, when I received the two deca- logues* for the head and arm ; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments ; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir.t I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines^. Tuesday, Feb. 9. — Tlierm. 54°. Up early, and went to see Muley 'Abd el Wahed (the servant of the Only One), the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it ; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags ; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground ; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the me- dicines, but they had not one ; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, " If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch — no any- thing." 1 promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brougiit, all that re- * These are dresses worn by tlie Jewish priests; they were sent to London. + So in the MS. m f These were two medicine chests sent to the Emperor of Morocco from London. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. -^3 niained for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery ; 1 hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I sliall never forget the scene ; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten ; and the words " God will reward you," were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew's wedding: first to the house of the bride's father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, whi(;h was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sounil of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine ; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour wait- ing my arrival : she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the S6k, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. De- scending from his chair she was placed in it ; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom ; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month ; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the xMillah. Wednesday, Feb. 10. — Therm. 56°. Visited Adiij, who is doing well; and then went to the kaid Sidi Mohamed Ben el 'Arabi Assoon or Rha- bah : he is a fine old man, but was very poorly. I remained there some time ; afterwards I visited Mulh'u 'Abd el Wahed, who was better, but still very ill. Returned home ; went afterwards to the palace, where I saw Jeldbi and the old eunuch, who shewed me the bracelets of the ladies, each weighing about one pound : there were about one hundred 54 NOTES TAKEN DURING of them. A remarkably fine and young Towashi* has become a patient. The court- yard of the palace presented a strange appearance to-day : there was a young lion as playful as a dog, several gazelles, and a large eagle. As the camels were loaded with muskets for Fez, I saw there were some signs of preparations for moving northwards. Felt to-day a slight touch of a coup de soleil: the sun was excessively hot. Called on Jelabi, and saw the little black. ") Began making my prepa- rations for departure, as 1 hope to be oft^ next week. Thursday, Feb. 11. — Therm. 58°, and rose to 102°. At eleven a.m. it stood at .97°. At three p.m. the heat rather oppressive ; and yet there is a fine view from the garden of tjie snow-crowned Atlas. At six p.m. the Therm, was 60° : at nine p.m. it had sunk to 57°. Went early to see my patient at Abd el Wahed's : found her better, but still very poorly. It is heart-rending to witness such a change in her fortune, yet as the poor sufferer appears to be soothed by my visits, 1 go there most wil- lingly. Her blessing to-day was pronounced with a fervour I shall never forget. Saw one of the horses of the desert: these animals are used to hunt the ostrich ; they can perform immense journeys ; they are fed only once in three days ; I had this from the mouth of the groom ; its allowance is a large jar of camel's milk every third day ; its colour was iron-grey, with ratlier heavy legs, but a spare carcase; it was very docile. The groom was liighly gratified with the notice 1 took of it. Returned home, and found the KiVid's tdlcb\. waiting for me. I am heartily tired of my diploma, and medicines are beginning to fail, while patients are on the increase. Ab6 was sent for by the chief eunuch, and has returned with a story rather too flaming about myself: but I must bear with it. Poor fellow ! he is more helpless than ever. I could not have got on at all witiioul Cohen, who is most attentive: he lias received some very pro- mising offers, if he will settle here as a doctor; and if he remains with me twelve months, I tliink I should be able to recommend him. I wish, however, he would take less brandy: il is true tiiat he is never tipsy, l)ut no man can stand what lie takes for any length of time. Had a • Eunuch. f So in MS. IMr. D. prol)ably iilluded to the bl.ack To\v{i8hi. % i. c. Writer. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 5.5 striped wild boar brought, to see if I would buy it, and then a fine turkey, a rare bird in this country. Sent Cohen to the Meshwa : the heat is too great for me, under the excitement I suffer from over- working. I told him to ask permission for us to depart : I doubt it will not be granted on the first application. The second eunuch is much better. I find tliat medicines have a more powerful effect upon such persons than even upon women : three grains of calomel, &c. produced thirteen motions. Friday, Feb. 12. — From the variation of temperature yesterday, I determined to watch the thermometer every hour. At five a.m. it stood at 42° ; at six it rose to 47°, but at seven it fell to 44° ; at eight it got up to 48" ; at nine the sun reached it, when it rose to 80° ; at ten it was 91"*; at eleven it had sunk to 00°, but rose again at noon to 91°; at one P.M. it was 94* ; at two it had reached 102°, but at three it sunk to 80 ; at four to 73° ; and at five to 09° ; giving a variation of 62,° and a mean temperature of 74°, during twelve hours ; at six it was 60°. I discovered to-day that five cannot be pronounced before the Sultan : one must say four and one. His daughter had been sent for me to see: when I had called her a beautiful child, the person who brought her immediately put up his hand, and pronounced the word kamsa (five), which prevents the effects of the evil eye : for a similar purpose the Jews place a hand over the doors of their houses. Went to AdAj to take leave : I saw he had a sum of money tied up in a piece of rag, and this led me to refuse, before he offered it. He said he knew he was doing wrong ; and after some time he gave it to Cohen. I was sorry he took it, and yet I wished to know what he intended to give : found, on my coming home, fifty ducats, a sum that Cohen now regrets he has taken, and means to return it this evening. Went to kii'id Jelabi ; dressed his hand ; thence to 'Abd el Wdhed's ; found the good woman much worse. Although I told them she was dying, she had been eating raw turnips : I now refused to give her any more medicine. Returned home very ill, and quite sick and tired with the place, and disgusted with the behaviour of the people. Sent Cohen to Sidi Ben All, to say '>6 NOTES TAKEN DURING that I must go away, else my health would sufl'er. The worst of these people is, that if one sends them upon a business that requires only a few minutes, they take as many hours about it : besides, the system of giving presents from the Sultan downwards has a bad effect. But as the people are ordered to wait, I cannot help myself. Tired of presents : they cost too dear. Went to bed without dinner or tea. Saturday, Feb. 13. — Therm, at each hour from 7 a.m. to p.m., both inclusive, stood as follows :— 56°. 58°. 67°. 85°. 86°. 91°. 91°. 96°. 75°. 68°. 65°. Lots of work at the palace and at Jelabis. Began to pre- pare stocks. Saw Sidi Ben All, and obtained permission to make arrangements foi- my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Adaj ; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Ali. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it : he offered two negroes. I have pro- mised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sultanah's dresses. lie has acceded to my terms. As I sliall be sure to lose my watch, 1 may as well get a dress* for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day : there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar (the pearl) : he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man. Sunday, Feb. 14, — Therm. 67°. The variation to-day not so great. W eiit and took leave of Adaj : found him in a great rage ; he had been beating liis women. Returned home and saw a few patients. Received a visit from ilie minister; read prayers, and then went out on the terrace of the house, to take a view of the country. Tiie mountain range pre- sented a very beautiful boundary to the prospect. Dined early, that I might go to Sidi Ben Ali in tiie evening. Every thing is now arranged : 1 intend sending a part of the baggage direct to Mogador to-morrow, and to start on Wednesday. Iitslii't-lhih. Monday, Feb. 15.— Tlierm. 47° ; rose to 99° at 1 p.m., then fell to 60° at G I'.M. Had a great scpiabble, and almost a figiit, in my room : • Thi8 dress was never received ; nor is any furtlier mention made of it in the letters. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 57 rcfiiseil to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging ; found it a diHiciilt task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in tiie l)aclv ; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, w hat they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many con- jectures about the reason for her coming. T find that 1 have offended the Shere^ff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Terodant this day ; and as soon as they have sufficiently lested I shall start : every thine goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here. Tuesday, Feb. 16. — ^Therm. 56°. Up early, and sent off the baggage ; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow : bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial ; both he and the Kaid were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkei-chiefs from the Sultan : went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one's servant a man of business, as Cohen is ; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies ; making- lots tjf friends : I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from tlie Sultan, and have been requested to pass the i)alace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed w ith my spurs,* bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow : turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them w ith an acchordion. Ben Ali and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hijazi basking in the sun, had a long talk with him ; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on nmch better. It is now six o'clock, and tiie * These are damascened in gold, and are now in England. I 58 NOTES TAKEN DURING mules are not yet ready : they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour ; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow. Wednesday, Feb. 17. — Therm. 60°. I was off to the Sultan's, and saw him start on horseback. I was ordered to go to the Maniyah, where I had my audience of leave : this is by far the most beautiful spot here. 1 had a row with the Sheikh. Sent off my last present of dates and brandy — a token of sweetness and of my parting in the garden. I found a great difficulty in getting away : at last, I left at one p. m. the gates of Marocco, with five fresh soldiers, and attended by ten others. For the first two hours the route was over a plain, in a S.E. direction, and afterwards more east. After crossing the river Tensift, the Wdd Zitt, and the Wad Aglimat, we came to a dotiar, where we slept, having received a good monah. The situation was splendid. Thursday, Feb. 18. — Therm. 40°. Started for the house of the Kaid Ibrahim, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot,* where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of ;J0O fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: tiiey occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, batlis, and arches : the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position — in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews — iiere called tlie sons of Yohudi : they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with sucli hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing antl music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. 1 boiiglit here several things. A great squabble took place, wIk II the Sheikli Berbo played the pari of a scoundrel. These are the Jews u lio liave each a berber-mastcr. I have almost a mind to • So in MS. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 59 go back toMarocco to complain : tlie artiiirwill, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is feet.* I have determined to make the best of my way to IMogador, after seeing Wurikah. Friday, Feb. 1}).— The therm. 47°, although the place is much nearer the snow and is at a considerable elevation. I am in great doubts about the city : it is built of unhewn stone, and the arches are very rudely formed. I coidd learn nothing in the way of tradition. The.Jews here puzzle me sadly: they have an air of freedom and defiance. I was rather the worse for their fare last night. On my telling them the tradi- tion I had heard respecting them, they said, " It is true, and we have it so." They have no certain knowledge of the time when they came here, but they think that the lost brethren are to be found probably at Tafilelt ; where, as at Elion, they dug twelve wells, and planted seventy- two palm-trees. The Rabbi here sung a sort of Psalm, which he had written to compliment me, and they all joined in the last sentence — " Blessed is he that cometh in the name of the Lord." 1 went to the synagogue, and returned to my tent to prepare for starting. What a changeable being is man ! I got up, and went to the Sheikh of the Berbers to make a complaint, and I have now to write to Abd-Salam to say that I am perfectly satisfied. I wish I could always get tiie pure pronunciation and etymology of the names of towns and other places. Thus, for example, the Misfywah, as it is called in the maps, is Oom Sievra (mother of Sievra),-|- the name of the first tribe who settled here. Again, Trasermoot is in reality tras (head), and eniwot (valley). At noon we started, accompanied by the whole population. We passed through a beautiful olive-grove. In descending a steep dip, I observed some people, and a pile of something, which turned out to be mydinner. It had been cooked on the spot : no four persons could have carried it : • The number of feet is not given in the journal ; but as this place was also visited in January 1830, by Mr. Drummond Hay and liis party, wiio carried a good barometer with them, we know that it is elevated about 1,800 feet above the city of Marocco, and 3,000 feet above the sea. See London Geographical Journal, vol. i. yi. 150. t So in MS. I 2 60 NOTES TAKEN DURING I could not eat a mouthful ; but the soldiers played their parts in high style, and to their heart's content. Our road then became most beau- tiful, and after crossing a river made a tremendous ascent. We were now joined by anotlier party. I had chosen this road, rather than return to Kai'd Abd-Saliim, who had sent to say he would give me an escort of sixty horse : but I fell from the frying-pan into the fire. ^Ve arrived at a large millah, where persons came out with wine and milk. I had to touch each, and put a drop on my horse's mane : I was too ill to drink any myself, while the women saluted me with a terrible screaming. We then proceeded to a second river, where we were met by a Sheikh, with two Shilhahs* on foot, who disappeared in the twinkling of an eye in a ravine ; and on descending, I found forty of them with their guns all levelled at, and waiting for, me ; while some twenty more were on the large stones on the sides of the ravine, together with ten on horseback, headed by the Slieikh, who was beautifully mounted. As soon as I came on the level he went forward some little distance ; then wheeling sud- denly his horse, he came at the top of its speed towards me. Knowing- it would be best to keep myself as I was, moving on, he placed his gun on my hat, stopping his horse at the same moment. Such a halt I had never seen: tliis made my own horse nearly mad. The whole th(Mi commenced firing, and so close to me, that I got the powder in my face, and the report almost cracked my ears. We then turned from the road to see a fine cave, which was said to pass through the mountain called Gulgal. At this point we had a view of Marocco. Skirting the mountain, which overlooked a river, and a country with enclosures like an English farm, we got into the districtofWarikah, where we had more firing. Arriving at the house of the Kaid, 1 tried to walk, but found myself too much exhausted. I received a visit from some Jews, who stated that they have here the tombs of two rabbis wiio escaped from the second destruction of Jerusalem; that their nation has resided here ever since that event. We had some talk about some books connected with this tradition, but they will not slicw them, nor can they go widi • Or Shuluh, the plural of Shilhah. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 61 me to-morrow, as it is their Sabbath, to the burial-ground. They are generally very ignorant, although they can manufacture, in a rude way, silver rings and bracelets.* Over tlie mountain opposite there is a valley equal to the plain of Marocco, where dwell, say the Jews here, those wlio escaped from Nebuchadnezzar, from whose time they have preserved their national records. There is, however, too much snow at present to enable us to reach the place whose name is Kibla. In Wari- kah there are sixty heads of families, and some of the douars\ are more numerous. At Trasermoot every Jew has his master; but here they JKive only one. On the mountain thtsre are two ; in other places there are three; and .so on. The annual tax is a ducat for the head of each family ; but they have to entertain and provide for all who come in the Sultan's name : they are the most intelligent I have met with. Saturday, Feb. 20. — Therm. 50°. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some speci- mens,! and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. Tiie Ka'id came out to meet us with twenty hor.se : we had to remain iiere, although distant only twelve miles from Warikah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W.,§ and Marocco now bears N.W.|| W^e saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shuluh came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught notliing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands : ! collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone : the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information : they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish. Sunday, Feb. 21. — Therm. 47°. The Sheikh's brother was brought tut before it was ready we had all fallen asleep. In the morning I had to • Scoundrels. f This was brought, in all likelihood, tor purchase, as Mr. D. was very fond of all sorts of arms, and had sent many kinds of daggers to England. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 65 doctor all the women ; they had never seen a Cliristian, but, by some means, the chieftain's lady had procured the button belonging- to a naval uniform, which she considered her principal ornament. Thursday, Feb. 25. — Therm. 57°. Oft' at seven, p.m. ; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N. ; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan,* from which an oil is extracted ; it is a low and biishy, but fine tree ; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Tln-ough a country not so well cultivated, we entered Haha, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw ; from their tops Mogad6r was visible, but as night was coming on we dis- patched a soldier at eight p.m. AVhen we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. ^^'illshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter : I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed. Friday, Feb. 26. — Therm. 58°. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep : the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house : found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the Sheikh of Wad Nim, and in the afternoon the brother of the Sheikh ; they fear the Sultan will stop me, and that I shall have to go back ; but I shall make the acquaintance of the Sheikh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to Wad Nl'in, and take my chance. Rained the whole day : returned home, and went early to rest. Saturday, Feb. 27. — Therm. 56°. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire ; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco : there • Eleeodendron Argan, from the berries of which an oil much used in Marocco, is extracted. K 66 NOTES TAKEN DURING is an ail" of comfort and business about it quite uncommon ; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil. Sunday, Feb. 28.— Therm. 50°. Feels cold ; wind from the N. Read prayers, and then paid a visit to the governor, who was very civil : I fear, however, that matters do not go on quite so smooth as I could wish. Prepared medicines for the people on the road. Retired to rest early, not very well. Monday, Feb. 29. — Therm. 60°. at eight; 80°. at nine; 102°. at ten ; 100°. at eleven; 106°. at twelve; and at one rose to 116°., the hottest weather I have felt as yet in Barbary. Saw Ombark* of Nun, the l)rother of Sheikh Beiruk : matters are going on well. I had a look at the Kobbah of Sidi Mogodul, which the Christians have converted into Mogador : the Moors call it Suweirah (picture) ; it is, certainly, the handsomest city in the empire. Went to the auction-mart : the night cold. Tuesday, March 1. — ^Therm. 60°., but rose to 116°. at one p.m. ; the weather beautiful. Walked over the town; saw several patients, but not being very well, retired early to rest. W^ednesday, Mar. 2. — Therm. 62°. Weather heavy, with damp-heat. Visited the kaid of Shavviyah, his brother, and father; the first was afllicted with a kind of scabies, the second with the a cold and the third with old age, but with an extraordinary conformation, which made him looiv like an hermaphrodite. Walked round tlie fortifications, whicii are good, and have several batteries mounted : it is not only the strongest, but the best kept town in the empire. Thursday, Mar. 3. — Therm. 60°. Up early, and went on board the Mauritania : got nearly swamped through the breakers, and a con- siderable swell from the Atlantic. The boats of tlie ships were all in readiness, ex|)ecting every moment that we should require their assist- ance. There is a small island, on wliicii is thestate-|)rison, together with a small mosque, and a few houses: I'loin this place the town presents a fine view. To-day is a great feast with the Jews, and is tlie first on • Mubarek. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 67 which they make their passover cakes : called at many of their houses. The Jewish population here, Mr. Wiltshire thinks, is nearly equal to that of Marocco ; they are certainly better housed, and in better circumstances. Saw some beautiful women : many of the men are dressed in European cloths, and even speak English. As I got wet through in coming here, and was suffering from sea-sickness, 1 did not leave home the whole evening. Massers, whose name has been converted into Moses, thougli his people call him Oman, brought me the prices of all the things in the market; every article is now scarce and dear, owing to the proximity of the army to the city. Meat, whether beef or mutton, is two-pence per pound ; bread, twenty loaves for a peseta, the usual number is thirty ; Eggs, three dozen for a peseta, at other times there are eight dozen for the same sum ; wheat and barley, four pesetas per cwt., which is just double the usual price. The people have been crying out for rain, and they have now got it with a vengeance. 1 expect my courier will reach Wad Niin to-day, and to have an answer by to-morrow week. Friday, Mar. 4. — Therm. 6.5°. Fine. Had many visits, and lots of patients. Felt rather poorly. Saturday, Mar. 5. — Therm. 00°. Got up late : went to the Jews' town, and saw my patients. Rode out with Mr. Willshire ; hurt myself, and had to lie by. Sunday, Mar. 6. — Therm. 57°. Weather very boisterous. Abou ill ; the cold and wet disagree with him. Read prayers : Saturday is kept here as the Sabbath, hence our Sunday is their busiest day. Monday, Mar. 7. — Therm. 60°. Still cold, and very wet : heavy sea, and no ])oats able to come ashore. Kept the house the greater part of the day Tuesday, Mar. 8. — Therm. 57°. Very wet, the rain comes down in torrents. Received letters from Tangier : visited my patients ; wrote to England. I am told that I may expect an answer from Wad N6n at the end of the week. Wednesday, Mar. 9. — Therm, 60°. The weather brightening up : the people all busy. Ransacked shops, but found very little. Feel not very well : began with my vocabulary. K 2 68 NOTES TAKEN DURING Thursday, Mar. 10.— Therm. 65°. Very fine. Paid a visit to Sidi Ben Idris. I learnt from him some particulars respecting the Khun- thas. He tells me it is Herami for their native doctors to examine these people ; that when this is necessary, as in the case of (an expected) death, it must be done by means of a glass, that they who have the parts of the male prominent, are set down as men who are destined to liave a double portion of prosperity ; while those in which the female organ is more developed, are, like the other sex, less fortunate. They are called Khuntha and KhanAth ; the most perfect are found at Fez. Received my answer from the Sheikh of Wad Nun ; it is perfectly satisfactory, he will protect me beyond Tumbuktu, if necessary; it only remains for me to know the terms. Made my round of patients. Friday, Mar. 11.— Therm. 65°. Weather beautiful. Went to the kaid of Shedmah, whom I found better : have had many applications. Mr. A\ illshire went to Ben Idris, who will offer no ojjposition ; all there- fore goes on well. Got out the tent preparatory to departure. The brother of the She'ikh of Wad Nun is to accompany me as far as that place. I find some difficulty about money matters, and must therefore send to London. Cohen is not doing so well ; he finds 1 can dispense witli his services, and 1 shall be glad to get rid of him entirely. Saturday, March 12. — Therm. 06°. Walked with Mr.Willshire to see Reis Muden's wife, and other patients. The ladies opposite are very merry : made arrangements for the letter to the Sultan. Sunday, March 13. — Therm. 60°. Weather very boisterous. Read the prayers ; my patients are improving : had a visit from Haji Omar, who lately had some hot pepper rubbed in his mouth for telling a lie: the punishment ought to be repeated, as he has made up a fine story about me. I begin to feel an anxiety to got off': but any hurry on my part would mar all my prospects. Took tlie tent to pieces, and have several Jew s at work ; for as the holidays of these people and the Moors are at hand, I must get every thing done before their commencement. Monday, March 14. — Therm. 66°. Weather hot and muggy. Went to dine in (he Jews' town : sucli a dinner! 1 heard a long account of the TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 69 cabbalists, the talkers with God, and the angels. Returned liome, and arranged to start this day week for Terodant, to quiet the talk about us. I do not feel quite contented with Cohen : his son has the bocca larga. During the afternoon we were visited by the i)ot wind : it was very oppressive : began my letter-writing, and hope soon to get off. Tuesday, March 15. — Therm. G0°. Some rain fell during the night. Received the names of H;imed Libb6, king of Tumbukti'i ; Fehedier, king of Hausah ; Woled Mansa Ensilu, king of Bambarrah ; all of them are well known to Ab6. Preparing to start. Wednesday, March IG. — Therm. 70°. Fine, but with signs of rain in the distance. Went to the governor to say that I intended leaving next week: sent off letters to the Sultan. Was hard at work with my patients, all of whom are doing well. Thursday, March 17. — Therm. QQ°. The weather is brightening up ; busy in preparing ; wrote letters to send by the Milford ; heard the history of the man who found the camels in the sand, and made his fortune by it. This happened at two days' journey from W4d Nun : employed in pre])arations for starting. Friday, March 18. — Therm. 66. Wind S. ; got very warm towards mid-day ; had my marquee altered to a tent, at an expense of ten dollars; determined to leave my horse, and made preparations for mule-travelling The most extraordinary reports are in circulation about me ; first, that I am going all over the country to see where it can be best attacked, and conquered ; next, that I have turned merchant, and am going to Sudan to buy up the gold; and queries are asked as to the quantity of salt I shall have to carry for that purpose. Of this last article, the price is extravagantly high. A human being is given for as much as two feet can cover, and the whole of a woman's jewels have been asked for as much as she could cover with her body. Had three of the famed serpent-stones brought me to purchase : they fetch very high prices, as they are a remedy for the bite of the reptile, and are used as a most costly medicine. I made several offers ; the men had refused twenty- two ducats for the three ; a large sum for a Moor to give, and an Arab 70 NOTES TAKEN DURING to refuse. They are generally brought from Siidjin : these, however, were taken from the 31 lior, which is a kind of antelope, and are called sels'i in the Mandingo language : they are used as an antidote in cases of poison, and are applied also to pains and bruises : I bought the three for eight dollars. The moon was visible and clear ; a sign of fine wea- ther. This evening the Sultjui is to receive my application : it is there- fore a moment of great anxiety. Saturday, March 19. — Therm. 67. Weather beautiful: the Milford about to sail. At half-past one the Therm, in the sun was 114°. Did not rise at all to-day : rather the worse for the copper* of yesterday. Sunday, March 20. — Therm. 65°. Read the prayers. This is the great day of business here ; there are symptoms of rebellion in the north ; the Sultan is to move to-day ; a large arrival from Wad Nun. I hope to buy some pieces of gold to-morrow : several were brought to-day, but none were very good. The mithkal or mazar is equal in value to two dollars and a-half; a dollar, by weight, contains six mithkals, one sora of gold. The ordinary lot in which it is sold is equal to fifteen dollars and a quar- ter in weight, and in value 225 dollars. The rate of purchase is at thirty-five to forty ounces the ducat. It is brought mostly in the shape of ornaments. Monday, March 21. — Therm. 66°. 1 took the best observations I could without a barometer, which is not to be found here ; and consider- ing too that the day was very unfavourable. Arranged for my uuiles : got every thing ready : am very anxious to hear from Marocco. A vessel has arrived from Gibraltar. Tuesday, March 22. — Therm. 66°. Went to the governor, and took leave; saw four men, who lived only six days' journey from Tum- buktu. The tent is but barely dry. 1 had no time to write to the Astronomical Society; I kept the paper; took leave of my patients ; glad to get off. \\'ednesday, March 23. — Therm, dd . Up early; commenced arrange- ments for loading the mules; did not get oft', however, till ten \'.y\.. and • So in MS. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 71 was then detained a half hour at the gate. Mr.Willsliire and other friends accompanied me for the first two hours and half. The road was over sand-hills, covered with a sort of vegetation. We halted atone p.m., took a lunch, and then my friends left me. The country now became more beautiful, and we entered a fine forest of argau : the day was beautiful; the wind behind us; the people all gay; my mule wanting no goad. As I am rather superstitious, I took the following event for a good omen. At a turn in the wood three boys came up to bid me Muhabbah-bik, and brought upon their slate nasr mini-Uahi wa fat-hu karibu wa basre-1 miiininina — " Help from God, and victory is near at hand, and good tidings for the faithful in God." We continued our route, meeting a great number of people ; the ground was carpeted w ith flowers. Arrived at the foot of a moun- tain, and crossing a stream, we came to our halt at half-past six, at Edvvisan or Smemo,* where we were well received, and liked the people. I was very tired, and having no appetite, took a draught of sour milk, and laying myself down, was soon fast asleep. Thursday, March 24.— Therm. 62». Up early, but did not start till eight A.M. The country here is well cultivated, and the barley has already attained its full heighth : the land is fertile. At an hour's distance from this place there are two large salt-mines : we visited one of them : the salt floats upon the surface of a brine lake, highly impreg- nated. The trees here begin to be finer. There is a hill of sand in the neighbourhood, where it is said that the Christians used to bring their horses to roll themselves. The water is fine, and tanks have been built along the wiiole road from Mogador, distant from each other about a two hours' journey. We halted at noon ; the ground was covered with w ild mignionette ; the cuckoo was heard the whole day, and a shepherd, with a shrill pipe, accompanied each flock : the scenery to-day charming. We did not reach our intended halt ; for the heat was tremendous ; and yet, strange to say, 1 was the only person who did not suffer by it. The • Places in Africa have frequently two names — one Buber, and the other Arabic. (Zemima?) 72 NOTES TAKEN DURING thermometer on my saddle stood at 114° for some hours together: in the shade even it was 90°. The place called Edujwilil is a miserable one. We are to have a longer day to-morrow, as I wish to arrive before the feast: dined on leben, (sour milk), and after taking tea went to bed. Friday, March 25. — Therm. 06^. The noise I made last night has done some good. We had yesterday a fine view of the snowy peaks of Atlas. I never had such a night as at this place. Edujwilil outdoes in vermin Safilmel : I could not bear to be in the room, and sat outside of the house all the night ; I will have my own way this evening. The whole road was rendered very beautiful by large plantations of the almond- tree. Some of the fruit was nearly ripe ; the corn was high, and the soil richer. We came again njjon the Atlas range ; where it reaches to the sea ; it has fine sloping hills, and round-capped chalk mountains. We entered a magnificent pass, that took us an hour to get through it : the scenery here was very striking. A great deal of our route lay through the road cut by Muley Suleiman. My soldier rode his white horse, which he made to kneel down at the tombs. Arrived at Haji Mohamed's at Beni Tamer : this village is called Ait Isak, where we received presents, Mr.Willshire having told him to take care of us. We put up in a shed, where we had a fine view of the sea. Saturday, March 20. — Therm. 70°. I am so much burnt by yesterday's sun, that I can scarcely move my hands. We came to Fernit, where the road turns ofi" to Agadir : we, however, ke})t down towards the sea, following a track : we had lots of lab el barod.* At ten a.m. wc rounded the end of a chain, which slopes down to the sea. The strata here, as in yesterday's route, were of lime-stone and sand-stone of every shade, and assumed a variety of forms. There were numerous caverns, and large masses of i)uddiiig-Ktono. We passed a fishing station, where we found many boats, and the poles for drying the fish were placed hori- zontally from tree to tree. The ground was covered with the eitpliorhium, * This is a kind of sham-fight, in which the parties charge each otiier at full gallop, and after firing their pistols at the horses' feet ■wlieel round. It is a favourite amusement with the Moors and Arabs. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 73 Nvild lavender and stocks ; and we saw a great quantity of partridges, pigeons, and birds of prey. We met likewise with an aqueduct to supply the tanks with water, that occur at about two leagues apart : they are generally from twelve to fourteen feet deep, and about half filled witli water. We halted at mid-day in a large grove of rhododenchons in full blossom : the water was bad. In the strata here are (piantities of fossil remains. From the shelving coast we ascended a very steep mountain, and continued rising to about one thousand feet. Here we found immense rocks of shells, some of the masses would have weighed tons. While I was collecting a few specimens, Ah(i remarkixl that the same kind of shells are to be met with at Sudan. Continuing our route, we descended again towards the sea, and went along the sands till dark, and then climbing a kind of Gibraltar rock, reached our resting place, Ta- maraet ; where, however, M'e could get nothing, nor find even a place for pitching the tent : and as we were not permitted to enter a house, we were compelled to sleep in the open air, while a heavy dew was falling. Sunday, Mar. 27. — Therm. 05°. Up early; walked out and enjoyed the view, from a considerable elevation. Read a part of the morning service. Did not get off till eight, p.m.: had a most splendid ride of two hours to Agadir, which exhibits the remains of great strength, and of some splendour. We had the upper part of the fortress allotted to us, from which the view was magnificent, but the heat excessive : we are to j-emain here to-day and to-morrow. Read the prayers, and washed some clothes. Walked through the ruins ; there was scarcely a house; some five or six buildings, resembling shops, supplied the wants of a population rot exceeding one hundred souls including Jews and children; I have since heard that there are but thirty. The walls are very good, and the Kaid has been building anew fort. Below it, and about half a mile oH" is Font!,* where there is a very fine spring, w hich sup})lies this place with water. The governor was particularly civil, in fact he over-did the thing, for every two hours he brought us food. The moon rose beau- tifully; the night was fine, but cold: I walked on the battery till nine p.m. * Tins place is called also Santa Cruz. L 74 NOTES TAKEN DURING Monday, Mar. 28.— Therm. 60°. Air cokl, weather liazy. This is the grand feast of the Mussuhiians ; the last day of Dhi-1 Hajjah, and the end of the year. All my people are so changed by washing themselves, that I hardly know them again. We went through the ceremony of kissing each other, and giving blessings ; I had my blessing sent me as soon as day broke. On tliis day the gates of tiie Ka'abah are opened ; nor do the Mussulmans go to the mosque, but say their prayers outside of the town. When these are finished, either at the Masalla* or in the circle, a sheep is slaughtered and placed immediately before a man upon a fleet horse ; if it reaches the town alive, the year w ill be an abundant one, and vice versa. Walked out to Fonti, when I was over- taken by a courier from Mogador, w ho brought letters to the Kaid here, and the Ka id of my own soldiers, and one from Mr.Willshire to myself; by v/hich I find I am now to go to Terodant. A cry of danger has been set up, and hints given me to leave the country. The governor of Mo- gador is to give me three bullocks, and I am to be allowed to ship haikes and leopard skins, which is considered a great privilege, but 1 have refused ; and have sent again to his highness, to ask definitively whether 1 am to go or not to Sudan. The fear is that something may hapi)en to me, for which he will get the blame, as that is the province which barely acknowledges his power. For my own part, 1 am better pleased with the people here than any I have seen in his dominions. The cousin of Sidi Mabarik Benbey has this day paid me a visit, and requested me to send a letter for him to London. All tiic people here are my friends; and 1 am sure 1 could get on if the Sultan would leave me to myself. I have to wait here a fortnight, imprisoned in the castle of Agadir, Mashallah ! Tuesday, Mar. 29.— Therm. 66°. As I was going to bed I heard the din of preparation ; my soldiers were moving into the court, and others j)laccd aljovc, and one in the door-way with his gun. On asking the reason, 1 was told a line story about some l)ad j)eople outside, who were determined to lay hold of me, and that they would not allow me to pro- ceed. I am tiius completely a prisoner, and with little chance of getting • The place of prayer, oratory. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 75 away ; but I have made up my mind to bear all. The night, however, passed away without any disturbance. Two soldiers started for Moga- dor, and I went out attended Ijy the Kaul and the four soldiers here, to I'^onti. The whole town turned out to see me. On our way down 1 found the same kind of shells occurring, as those we had seen on the road : they run through the mountain, but take a diH'erent direction to the strata ; the latter run N.E., and are cut by the shells at right angles ; I collected several specimens. At Fonti the population is considerable; the people were quite delighted to see me, as they hoped I had come in the character of a merchant, to re-open a channel of commerce, that had been diverted elsewhere : formerly this was the great depot of trade. There is a fine bay here, and good anchorage ; and every article of com- merce is to be had twenty per cent, cheaper than at Mogad6r. We returned by the road leading to Tildee : the people here say they could find freight for two hundred vessels, as all the produce of S(!idan, and the oil, almonds, and gum of Sus, could be shipped here; and that they could take in return all kinds of English produce, in cloth, iron, &c., for which there would be a ready sale. Returned liome, when one of my soldiers, an Iss6wi, was seized with the devil : it took four men to hold him down, and prevent him from jumping over the battlements. He then broke away from us, and throwing himself ujjon the ground began tearing himself: T never saw anything so explanatory of the account in Scripture. The cure is as curious as the disease. They burn some benzoin under the nose of the patient, which (juiets him for a time, but as soon as the fumes cease, he breaks out again, and lays hold of every thing within his reach ; in some cases he has been known to destroy children. This poor creature ate several pieces of paper, bits of lime and dirt; but when the words " Sidi Benel Abbas, Sidi Abd-el Kadir," Sec.,* were pronounced, his hands, which had been firmly closed, were opened: his companions then called ujjon Abu to say the Fiitihah,! in which all joined ; when he came to himself, although he * Name of Mohammedan Saints. f First chapter of tlie Koran, used as the Lord's Prayer is by Christians. L 2 76 NOTES TAKEN DURING appeared and talked like a child for some minutes, after uhicli he quite recovered. The -weather beautiful. Visited the ruins, and bought a dagger. Ordered one of their shirts, which the natives work very prettilj' : paid and discharged nij' muleteers, who are sadly disappointed at my not going on. Passed an hour with the governor upon the terrace, talking upon politics and physic. Wednesday, Mar. 30. — Therm. 70°. Very close; a slight fall of rain. Not feeling very well, I kept my room. Received a second courier : wrote answers, and likewise letters to Lord Glenelg, his Royal High- ness (the Duke of Sussex), to Colonel Fitzclarence (Earl of Munster), soliciting a letter to Hamed Libbu, King of Tumbuktu. A caravan has l)een robbed : an extra guard was put on me, six above, and ten below. There are great fears about me on the part of the people of Agadir. Thursday, Mar. 31. — Therm. 72°. Finished my letters, and ordered the courier to start at daj^-break ; did not retire to rest till midnight. During the night there were symptoms of the Sumum ; we were covered with the dust, and almost suffocated by it : the heat this morning i.s beyond all conception, the air literally burns one's face. The therm, rose in the sun at half-past ten to 128°., and tiie one in the bomb-proof battery to 7-3°., while that, but in tlie shade, out of doors, stood at 86°. There is, however, a moderate breeze, (from the sea), but it is <]uite over- powering to pass from one side of the battery to the other. At one p.m. therm, in the sun reached 133°., that in the battery was steady at 90°. Purchased two gold coins, found in lathera curious manner: a boy was j)ursuing a young pigeon tiirough some ruined tombs, in the neighbour- hood, and wliile he was grubbing out the hole into which tiie bird had rifd, lie I'ouihI lliiee coins ; continuing his search, he threw up several human bones, and came at last to a perfect skeleton. The Kaid tells me they do find, at times, coins in the tombs; but these gold Moorish ones are of uncommon occurrence. Not feeling very well I took some ze- mitaali :* I like this mucii, this is the Mogus ofSi'idan. The; heat has been so overpowering that none of us could move about, not even AIj^ * This is a preparation of grain, or rallur grits, anil iornis, like oatmeal in Scotland, the food of the common people in Sudan, w iicre it is called Mogiis. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 77 At nine a.m. the therm, was GO". A large fire is seen blazing towards the river. Went to rest early. Good Friday, Apr. 1. — Therm. 7-2°. No hot-cross buns here. ReatI the service. Visited the tomb of Mogonadel, the patron saint of the place ; afterwards took a round at Fonti : « eut thence towards the sea, and from thence to what they call their silver mine, which contains notliing- but a few ruins of quartz in the lime-stone and sand-stone. Dispatched a man to the copper mines for specimens. Wind E., and much cooler to-day. Started some hares and a snake. It is said it never rains here, althougli it does all round. Cohen, and his boy, are gone to keep the Passover w ith the Jews. Saturday, Apr. 2. — Therm. 80°. Tlie heat was so oppressive to-day I could not stir out : the therm, in tlie sun 132°., and remained so for many hours. All of us were done up. We are working in the house in reducing the baggage, and getting every thing in order to start at a moment's notice. Sad accounts are daily coming in of the j)eople about here ; every person who ventures out is robbed and beaten : several people are waiting here for an escort. I cannot so much blame the Shilhahs and Susis ;* they have been sadly oppressed by the Sultan's army ; and now it is gone, they are repaying themselves. They acknowledge no law but tliat of force, and exhibit but little trace of any religion : their tribes extend, with intervals, to the Gambia. This has been a dies tion. Sunday, Apr. 3. — Therm. 72°. — A large wolf stole up to the bat- tery during the night, which roused us all. To-day the wind feels cold, and there is such a heavy fog that we cannot see the sea ; the sun rarely broke through. There is, at least, a difference of 40°. between the temperature of to-day and yesterday out of doors, and of 8 to 10 within. Felt not all well, and kept all day to my carpet: beginning to get tired of Agadir. An arrival from Terodant, but it brouglit no news. Monday, Apr. 4. — Therm. 0-5°. Very cold, and a mist equal to rain. All hard at work in making leather bottles, &c., for the water. Received a large present offish. A large Kafilahf passed this morning for Terodant. Did not leave the battery all day. • People of Sus. f Caravan. 78 NOTES TAKEN DURING Tuesday, Apr. 5. — Therm. 72°. The mist continues heavy, and quite darkening the air. Not very well; kept within the battery. Alas! all our bread is gone, and these people eat none ; and as it is the feast of unleavened bread, the Jews cannot make any for me, a deprivation which I feel not a little. The man was seized again by the devil. Heard the history of the enchanted castle, and the black woman, who lives at three days" ride from this place. Heard likewise of the Jews, and of the tombs. I must see them on my way to Wad Ni'm. Wednesday, Apr. 6. — Therm. 72°. Heavy mist, with rain in the N.W. A dies lion. Thursday, Apr. 7. — Therm. 76°. Beginning to look out for news : my man returned from the mines ; tiie specimens he brought were very bad ; he found great difticulty in getting any at all. There was a market to-day, where 1 bought nothing but a few carrots. Quite tired of Agadir. Hope two or three days will decide whether I can go on or not. Friday, April 8. — Therm. 60°. Very cold. My fingers were so chilled, that I could not dress myself. At noon a courier arrived ; all is right ; wrote my letters, and after detaining the man an hour, dispatched him again to Mogadi arrived. I repaired immediately to the governor. All is now arranged for my departure to-morrow, at break of TRAVELS IN AFRICA. »1 day : hard at work in packing up. Wrote my letters: di.spatciied Cohen and his boy: received a blessins^ in the synai^ogne yesterday, which cost four doHars. I liave to part wilii most of my things, as I shall he allowed only two mules ; the sharks are therefore looking- out for what they can get. I am quite sick at heart at these Moors : poor ignorant creatures. I have just this monuiit learned that there is a town E. of Terodant, called Tazelt, where there is a Ciiristian church, in perfect preservation, well finished and painted, but shut up : it is held in some veneration by the natives, who can only look into it through the windows. There are also Christian villages in the neighbourhood of the cliurcli. Went down to Fonti ; every thing works well ; I am to start as a soldiei-, accompanying some mules : took leave of my j)atient, who is to go witii me ; but not a soul has an idea of this. Cohen is very anxious to go on. I have, at his own request, given him a letter to Lord Glenelg : have packed up every thing : am in a great bustle. I fear, however, there will be some detention to-morrow. I suspect the courier has been stopped, as no escort was visible at sun-set. Laid down to rest, but with no chance of sleeping, as I am to be up at the earliest dawn, to start, if possible, to-morrow. Monday, April 18. — Therm. 70°. Up at four a.m., but did not get away till seven. I was accompanied as far as the river by the governor, and four soldiers, Hiiji Ibrahim, and our own party ; in all sixteen souls. At half-past eight we came to the boundary of the district, where a prayer was offered up for the Sultan ; after which, the governor and his party returned. In defiance of all 1 said about Haji Ibrahim's state of health, he would go on, or rather his tribe compelled him, to his own house, distant a ride of four hours. Here we stopped, and had kuskusu and barley-cakes with butter, and some leben (sour milk). Ibrahim was, indeed, in a sad state of health.* I gave him the medicines I thought best. The perfect indifference shewn by Hdji Majibi towards a fellow-creature quite disgusted me. Had my horse shod, and proceeded * His illness had commenced by his having had some of his ribs broken ; to cure which, he had been hung up by his hands : but this had been carried too far. M 82 NOTES TAKEN DURING S. to Sti'ika, attended by ;i strange semi-devil from the Hiiji (Ibra- him), M ho told me that I need be under no alarm, as he could bring one hundred horse into the field, and had promised to protect me. Crossed the Sus river, ^vhich is here a considerable stream, although twenty miles from the sea. We arrived at a little before six p.m., at the house of Sheikh Hamed, who is a fine young man : he and the people of his town were all out at prayers. The country is fine, with large planta- tions of figs and almonds. During the time that our food was preparing, I was amused with some good ball-firing, the party standing on one leg or lying down : they are a merry people. We commenced w ith bread and butter and honey; then came kuskusii ; then tea till midnight. Abu here received from one of liis countrymen some account of his friends. The pocket-handkerchief is used for the towel generally, and the corner of the mat lifted up for wiping the nose : the belching is quite beastly. Passed but a bad night. Tuesday, April 19. — Therm. 72°. Up at four a.m. and got off at six. Just before starting, 1 had the place half-ftdl of patients. I had been bored to death the night before with questions. One man was brought to me with a ball in his foot ; and by way of assisting me to cure him, the gun was brought from which the ball had been discharged. Accom- panied by the brother of the Sheikh and four of his people, and Ilaji Ibrahim's semi-devil, we reached the JM^sah, a finer river here than at Sus. Its course was S.S.W. We rode along its banks through a fine and populous district, called Assa, and crossed it at the great Sok (Tlatali.) Here we met the Slieikh of 'Aki'di, with twenty horsemen. Our party stopped ; it was a trying moment for me: the two parties held a council, and after some ten minutes, the muhabbah-bik* (welcome) was pronounced. Here IKiji Ibrahim's .semi-devil was sent back, and one of the other party took his j)lace, and conducted us to th(> house of Sheikh "Ali at Tamasert, in tiie ))opulous district of 'Akuli, from wliicii the sea is distant about a half mile. The peojde here ai"e said to i)e very l)ad characters, and tlicir looks confirm the tale. We had tea and kuskusi'i. Tiie Sheikh was ill, antl I was required d) cure iiim, • Friendship for thee ! TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 83 and a dozen others ; I)iit I pretended to be unwell, and with this view I went witiiout food, for tlie second day. Some of AbiVs countrymen came to play and sing to him ; and thus kept me awake till midnight : afterwards the vermin, which were a worse plague than last night, prevented me from sleeping. Wednesday, April 20. — Therm. 70°. Heavy rain. Up at five a.m. After eating and drinking, the people took me out to find a spring ; they had water enough, and so I pretended to point out the spot where they are to dig. We got off at nine, accompanied by Siie'ikh 'Ali. Owing to the rain, we travelled very slowly. I fear that 1 iiave had to pay dear for passing this place. We arrived at the residence of a great saint. This humbug has the power of taking me any where through Sus. I bought him for dollars. At this point the Sheikh left us to return home. The country is completely cultivated : it is backed by four regular rows of limestone-hills, which serve as a kind of embankment against the desert. They are now cutting the corn, which produces more than one hundred fohl, most of the seeds throwing out four stems, and some five. I am not over-pleased with my conductor, Hdji Majibi, w^ho, I see plainly, is making a job out of my journey. We passed the tomb of a great saint, El Ab, where all the party, but the Kafri (myself) offered up their prayers. We then entered a pass, which required some hard climbing. My horse became so lame, that I was com- pelled to walk the i-est of the journey, a distance of three hours ; when we reached the residence of another great saint. Here they have to prepare a room for myself, as I cannot be permitted to enter his apartment. My grumbling to-day has been of service. I have some Tumbuckti'i quilts laid over my carpet to serve for a bed. Received some barley- cakes and honey, but could not eat them ; afterwards butter and honey, and leben (sour milk) ; but it will not do : a biscuit is the only food I have taken this day, although I have fasted for three. The Moors, and Haji Majibi amongst them, who had taken some refuse kuskusu from some labourers on the road, were eating and drinking till midnight* iSot being allowed to enter the room of the saint, 1 was put into the M 2 84 NOTES TAKEN DURING garden, until one was prepared. This is the district of Eit Bamaram. The water is here both bad and scarce. Thnrsday, April 21. — Therm. 74°. Weather muggy, with much rain. I had been promised that I should reacli \\{u\ j\un to-day ; but after travelling two hours, iiaving waited till past nine for the Moors to eat three times, we met a courier from Wad Nun, and we were then taken out of our road to a house, where we are to stop all day. This, I am convinced, is owing to Haji Majibi not having sent word in pi'oper time. I am most grievously disappointed, but must bear it as well as I can ; the day hangs very heavy on my hands. A lot of these beasts came as usual for physic ; called me kafri, and all the rest of it, but could get nothing to eat. I would not advise any other traveller to come through Sus : they ask for every thing, but will neither give, nor even shew any thing. They affect much on the score of religion ; never going in or out, sitting up or standing, without the Bismillah At eight P.M. got four eggs, and had some biscuit. I received a message from the Sheikh, stating that we are to arrive to-morrow. This place is Tisseret, famed for its copper mines. Friday, April •22. — Up at four, a.m., or rather up all night. Vermin in myriads. Hurried away ; and after one hour's march, stojjped for two more to eat. At length we reached IfrauOchran, the last town in Eil Bamaram. Passed the range of mountains in Lo\^er Sus, and entered Wad i\6n. During the route, saw people reaping corn, with arms by their side. Wad Nun is a large town, with several small clusters of buildings: it derives its name* from a Portuguese Queen, N6iiali. Hence Wad NAn is the valley of Nunah : the place is distant from tlie sea a journey of five or six hours. Our first halt was on the banks of a magnificent stream of water. When we came to the spring (Agusa), we washed and drank, while the people prayed. A fine line of iiills protects it from the Sahra. We found here the Sheikh waiting for us, who took us at once into his house : at half-past five he gave us a good dinner, which set me all right. 1 am much pleased with him. * It is properly Ndl, and was so named when the Arabs possessed Portugal: Queen N6nah is a modern invention. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. Ho After tea, all the great folks of the place came to see me: as soon as he had read the Sultan's letter, he sent for Huji Majibi : when he came back at nine, he said he wanted three double-barrelled guns, silver-mounted, and the barrels damascened in gold, together with an air-gun ; to which I am to add my brace of pistols. I talked over all the wonders of England, and then wrote to Mr.Willshire to tell him what I had done. The Sheikh assures me, he will send me without the least danger. I like him much : he has a large and fine family. I have brought him a handsome present, and I fear he expects that I shall return this way back : but this is not in the bond. Abt'i is very helpless. Here one begins to see slavery again : the house swarms with slaves, who form a large item of property. This Beruk is a person of great vFealth : he possesses forty thousand head of cattle, and has never less than one thousand camels, working between here and Sudan. His eldest son is a fine young man. Went to bed at midnight, quite done up. Saturday, April 23. — Therm. 7G°. Symptoms of heat. Had my .sour milk, and then unpacked my things. The Sheikh highly amused with the pillow, and the little globe firing the guns : he was smoking and laughing alternately. All goes on well. I was kept up to write my letters, and they are not yet sent off: these people are so very dilatory, where they are not immediately interested. Patients are beginning to come in. The fellows, who were so free on the road, have come a little to their senses. Lots of patients, and amongst them a man, who had been wounded sadly. Had the whole of the Sheikh's family with me: gave each of his little children a bracelet. In the afternoon walked about and round the town : went to the Ab6 Sebah's tents ; from thence to the garden, where I saw a fine crop of apples : saw likewise several heiries, both of dromedaries and horses. As the Sheikh's cattle were coming in, I perceived that what looked like a river, was a very small stream of water : it is the Assaka. The view from the heights is rather pretty over fields of tobacco and plantations of date-trees ; here and there a garden, and many fine wells : saw a part of my companions, wno are to be fasting to-day, but we hope we shall have some supper, although 86 NOTES TAKEN DURING I am sick at the sight of ray sable attendants, who have the itch very bad. I shall have to remain here at least three weeks, although I should be glad to shorten the time. Sunday, April 24. — Therm. 70°. I was kept up till midnight grinding a small barrel-organ ; and fainting with hunger, I took at last to the kuskusu, and got some sleep. This morning my patients have increased, so that I am obliged to say " hold." Here the people are really ill ; but so stupid or stubborn, that it is impossible to do them any good. Gorged to their throats, they sleep half their time away, and then wonder they are ill. The houses here are better than any in Marocco, and look like casts* in plaster, being built piece by piece in moulds. These people have no idea of taking a draught, and they sip the most nauseous medicines. As soon as all are asleep, I take the opportunity of writing up the journal, and reading the prayers. This is Sok-day, and no little bustle. I do not feel very well, the heat is so cvcessive. We had a cajiital supper of meat, mixed witii grapes and butter ; a strange mixture, but a good dish. A man, who has got a gold mine here, has come to ask rae about it. Great doings may be expected here to-morrow, as I have given to twenty persons strong doses of medi- cine. But they are such fools. Monday, April 25. — Therm. 70°. Very close ; heavy dew through the niglit, during which I was called up twice to visit patients, some of whom are very ill ; but 1 am expected to cure them by merely looking at them ; a most disheartening business. Up early and went to the garden ; returned home, and visited patients. All my cigars are gone, and I am now manufacturing a pipe. Have the prospect of being here a month ; but I must l)ear it all, as 1 am quite in the power of these people. Walkei.\\. lias given us all the rheumatism and bunbago, wliich the people are working off". Preparations are making Cor the kafdali, which is to start to-morrow for Suweirah : all the guests are, tliank (Jod, gone. During the time of feasting all our best crockery was brouglit out : the highest guests were served in a wash-hand basin, TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 107 and a certain other utensil was considered one of the most useful pieces of ware, from its having a handle: they could scarcely believe me, when I told them its use in Europe, and that extravagance had led some people to have it made of silver. AbCi told them that the King had one of iiold. I was not so much astonished at its use here, as we had our wine out of the same kind of vase at the house of the British agent in Marocco. A Jew was brought up for theft. The Sheikh at length tells me that he has written to Tagakanth ; this has raised my spirits, and I feel better; have starved for tliree whole days. The whole place is so full of ivory, feathers, gum, and wool, that it is difficult to get about : the natives are much surprised that I am not preparing to go back: I have, indeed, a difficult game to play. Five hundred sheep and goats were slaughtered for the fair ; and the quantity of kuskusu and otiier eatables was innnense. Tuesday, May 31. — Therm. 78°. A quiet day, and a day's quiet is quite a rarity. Did not leave the house ; had some conversation with the Sheikh, who seems to waver; still talks of the danger of the journey, and is desirous to detain me here. I have determined that he shall write to Tagakanth ; if the expense is now to be exorbitant, 1 must wait for the kaBlah, and go w ith Zein. Had I gone at first to him, I might have saved five hundred dollars. A young camel was killed for a feast to-night : I was so sickened at seeing some of the Arabs, and amongst them a relation of the Sheikh's, who took a large piece of the hump, and ate it raw, that all my appetite was gone for the night. Wednesday, .June 1. — Therm. 78°. It became excessively hot towards noon. At half-past two p.m. the thermometer in the sun stood at r20°. Walked out and visited some Arab women ; one of them had been brought a ten day's journey across the desert, merely for me to look at her. The people of her tribe told her that I had given away all my medicines ; but I could still look at her, and order some change in her diet ; and she, poor thing, fancies she shall still recover. They would have me eat some dates, the largest and finest I have ever seen. Took my usual walk. The Sheikh and I get on much better, although there p 2 108 NOTES TAKEN DURING is but little chance of my proceeding, as tlie people of Tagakanth are carrying on a fierce war witii those of Erdebeit : but as the Sheikh's kafilah is detained in the Sahra, I hope he will have to send for it; and this may be the means of helping me off. Got all right again, thinking of Horace's expression — " Qui semel aspexit, quantum dimissa petitis Praestent, mature redeat repetatque relicta." This is nearly my case. Thursday, June 2.— Therm. 76°. Strong wind N.W. Went out to the mountains, and saw the bed of the Sey yad, which takes the name of Assaka, after passing the town of Asserir. The man who acconv panied me said, that the Wiid Dar'ah run into the sea at two day's journey S. of AVad Nun; and four days beyond this, there was another river running from the Sahra into the sea. The town is now quite quiet. 1 feel anxious for the Sok Molud, which will take place in a few days, and then the Damanis will come here. No account of the kafilah. Friday, June 3. — Therm. 80°. Dies /ion. I was hardly in bed, when one of the slave-boys fell from the roof of the house : they were going, 1 believe, to let him lie and die. I got him washed, when I found that he had broken his right arm and lower jaw ; had knocked liis teeth out, and his lower lip half off; the right knee, too, was dreadfully cut. I could hardly get these savages to point out a place where to lay him ; all seemed to think he would not be saleable, if he recovered. I set his arm, bound up the jaw, and sewed up the laceration in his kn(;e, and took off a part of the lip. I fear they will not pay the least attention to the poor little creature, who has been the most useful and hardest worked of thewlmlf lot. I could hardly get warm water to wash and examine liini. Wliat my fate would be in the event of an accident, I may judge from this. 1 heartily wisli I had never come near the wretches. Saturday, .June 4. — 'linrui. 80° and got up to 00°, at two p.m. wiieii it was l-2'i° in the sun. Tiiis is the hottest day we have had; for though the solar iieat \\as "reater at Agadir, we had not near so great a degree TRAVELS [N AFRICA. lOD of lieat in the sluule. The poor boy is very bad : it appears that he was literally beaten off the roof by the beast Sudy Salaam. One of their own doctors has taken off my bandai^e, and displaced the bones. I have now done with liim ; yet poor creature he could be left to die even for a drop of cold water, but for Ab6 and myself. I wish some of the people to meet with a similar accident, and they should have taunts enough from me. Went out to see the La'b El Barud. There were but few riding, except Arabs ; who rode very well. Returned home looking anxiously for the post to-morrow. Sunday, June o. — Therm. 84°. Read tlie prayers; and afterwarils cleaned out my room, this being the only day when I can venture to do it, as the people are all at market. The heat has increased excessively. At half-past two p. m. the thermometer was 9o° under the corridor. The solar heat is unbearable. The poor boy is suffering much. The person who came from Marocco, calling upon the tribes to arm, is already returning. Foolish people. I recommended the Sheik to have nothing to do with the matter, but to send his produce to Suwe'irah, as soon as possible, as I feared the port would be blockaded. Monday, June 6. — ^Therm. 88°. We were to have started this morn- ing ; but there is now no chance till the kafilah departs. How 1 am to exist here for two montlis longer I know not. The heat is excessive. Thermometer in the shade 100": the very water is warm. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, to send me a courier by express, on whose arrival I may ground my application to the Sheikh for some definite arrangement. Tuesday, June 7. — Tiierm. 8C° up to 100°, in the corridor. Too hot to move out: wrote all day. In the evening a set of niggers arrived from Tumbuktii ; they kept the whole town alive and awake through the w hole night w ith their music and singing : we had a picked lot here, and some Arabs, who sung with great effect, beating the ground with their hands by way of accompaniment: one lad had a very fine voice. All their songs Avere extemporaneous : one was made to suit me and my situation, and their opinion of my chance of success. As I cannot see to write till day-break, I have determined to try if I can get some sleep, despite the great noise. no NOTES TAKEN DURING These people know nothing of hours ; they eat, sleep and pray, when it suits them : they only regard the number of times each of these acts are performed in one light and one dark, as they call the day. Wednesday, June 8th. — Therm. 85°. The whole place has got so baked by the heat of the three days, that they say it will not feel cool again for the next three months ; that every day will be hotter and hotter till the houses and ground crack, when there will be a change. Too hot to stir out : I am getting very dissatisfied. Thursday, June .9th. — Therm. 88°, at midnight 95°. Walked out to the lime-stone mountains : from this spot a pretty picture might be made of the town with the gardens ; to the east the tomb of Sidi El Razi, and before it the Sok ; the game of La'b el Barud at the back of Mes'6d's house ; on the west the heaps of corn with camels, mules, donkeys, and boys treading it out, and others winnowing with a shovel. Four black ladies have visited me to obtain a charm : the first wants something to make every one love her ; the second that her piccaninnies may live ; the third to know who ever has spoken ill of her ; and the fourth to be made happy. The medicines have not yet an-ived, but are to come next week. The heat is excessive. Some arrivals from the desert; but no hopes of our getting away. Friday, June 10. — Therm. 85°. To-day our kuskusu was enlivened by a pumpkin, the only vegetable we have now had for seven weeks, except our daily onion : the pumpkin was a present, and had travelled far. Things are improving, if these hogs would only let Nature take her course. Last week they stri])ped the only apple tree in the place of the fruit, which was just formed, and to-day tliey have done the same to two apricots, because the heat of the fuw last days had just begun to turn them yellow. Tiie grapes are eaten when they are as hard as stones, because each is afraid that anotlier may get them. The heat is more op|)ressive than ever. The Slicikh and all our party are in high spirits, in con.se-' (juence of the arrival of some good news from Senegal. Saturday, June 11. — Thtrm. 80°. Heat very trying through the whole (lav. I was asked whether thesunshone in England, and whether we had TRAVELS IN AFRICA, 111 the moon and stars like those seen here? They Avould not believe me wlieii I told them that the same stars they saw me looking at last night where just over tlie house in which I lived in London, and that we called them the Great Bear, and spoke of its tail, head and legs. I surprised them much by pointing out several constellations to them. Went oidy to the garden. Cannot get my letters taken to Suweirah. Am most anxioiis to have matters put into a train. Sunday, June 12. — Therm. 86°. Read the prayers, and finished poor Bruce : was much struck w ith many points of resemblance in our cases. Felt not very well, and did not leave the house : witnessed a sad scene in the evening. Some money iuid been stolen, and the slaves in the town were charged with the theft: one poor creature was tied up by his heels, his head bleeding profusely from a blow he had received whilst being brought here. In this position he was stripped and flogged with some plaited cow-hide over his legs and back : after hanging for half an hour, he was let down ; when others were brought in to undergo a similar punishment. But my nerves could not stand it. Tiie heartless wrctclies seemed, however, to enjoy the writhings of the poor creatures, whose mis- fortune it is to be black. Sick of the scene, 1 retired to my iiole, and did not go out again. At night Ab6 told me they were released, lest the people here should be disturbed by their cries for water. The poor creatures had been under torture for some time, and stated they had not had their food, when they were brought here; and what is more horrible, some women were amongst the number. No regard, however, is paid to sex. The poor blacks are all kafirs in the wise judgment of these chosen people. Monday, June 1 3. — Therm. 80°. It felt cold during the night, and this morning it is cloudy and oppressive. I feel hardly recovered from tiic disgraceful scene of last night. The Tagakantli people have at last arrived. I wish I had got my letters from Suweirah, as this would be a good oppor- tunity for speaking on the subject ; althougli I would now rather wait for Zein and the kafilah, whicii would be better on the score of safety; besides the rains would be nearer their close. The unfortunate delay at 112 NOTES TAKEN DURING (iil)ialtar has done all the mischief. Tliese people were the van of the great Sudan kafilah, which has now arrived with more than three hundred camels: the rest have remained at 'Akka, Tagakdnth, &c. About eighty jiersons have arrived with it. ]\e\ er did I meet with any people who gave me so complete an idea of sa\ ages. Their bodies are a mass of dirt, and their wan eyes are sunk in their heads ; their teeth of pearly hue seem starting from their gums. They wear the hair long and in large quanti- ties, some curled and others plaited. Half-dyed blue with the khoart, and half famished, they present a revolting exterior. But never did any people improve so much upon acquaintance. I had seen the Pindari horseman in India, the Leoni savage in Arabia Felix, the Wahhabi in Yemen, the 'Ababdeh and Bishiire in Arabia, Petroea and Egypt; but all these have a great advantage in appearance over my friends the Dama- nis. The kafilah brought large quantities of ivory packed in skins ; about four, six, or eight teeth on each camel looking like small canoes; many loads of rcish ostrich feathers; one iiundred camels laden with gum, packed in hides, tlirougii which sticks are passed, and tiiey are then slung like panniers on the back of the camel. Several Tamar* dates and a few bales of Sudan cloth : the camels that carry the gold have each a man riding to take charge of it. As soon as the animals were unloaded, the twenty Danuinis came to the Sheikh's house, where they devoured a sheej) w ith nearly half-hundred weight of kuskusA.and a camel-load of ripe niashmash (apricots), and then all lay down to sleep : in about an iiour they got up and shook themselves, and then came in a body to see the Nazarene. I had some difficulty to keep myself from being smothered by them. The Sheikh Kheisfer came to drive them away; when one, who seemed to have some command, said, " Na/arene, we are wild Arabs; none of us have ever seen a Christian ; we know you are a great man ; if our coming thus to you offends you, we will go ; if not, astonish us. You are a magician ; shew us some fire." I lighted some tinder from the sun w iih iny glass ; and tlien shewed tiieui my suiall globe, telescope, watch, pi>t(ils, kc. afterwards a lucifer-match ; and, lastly, 1 set fire to my finger, (li|i|)iii<4 it ill spirits of terebinth. I'hiswas too much for them: they be- • Tamar means date in .Arabic. G. C It. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 113 came alarmed ; I then got my sword, &c. afterwards gave them snuff: they all smoked my pipe, and whentliat was finished, and I had examined all tlieir eyes, and given many of thein medicines, and would not take money for it, I was told I iiad only to say ' Resiili Mohammed,'* and go any where. This was the general wind up, and La'l) el Barod (inished the day : and as the evening saw my rooms filled again with these wild men, I was fairly tired out. Tuesday, June 14. — Therm. 76°. It felt so cold in the night, that I was obliged to |)ut my cloak over me. Day had hardly dawned, when Abl'i called me up to write to Mogador : my door was instantly beset by my Damani friends, all asking for He jjam (Physician). The intense curiosity of these people forms a striking contrast to the apathy of the Moors. They, however, overdid the thing, and I was compelled to order them all out. The Sheikhs 'AH and Hamed then visited me : they said they were the sons of the great Sheikh of ''J'aghakanth, and hoped I would allow them to come in, and tliey would not sit uj)on tlie carpet. From both of these intelligent persons I learnt many particulars respecting the route to Tumbuktii. They said they had been fifty days coming from Jennah, but they had often done it in less : the last time they were only forty-four days, allowing for halts; they say there are three roads to Tum- buktu; from hence to Maddan twenty-five days; but it can be done in twenty-two with light loads ; from thence to Tisliit in thirty-five, if a person were a good traveller, and would go direct to that place, but by Waden he would want rest ; from thence to Walatah ten days, and fifteen from thence to Jennah. The time will be the same by the other route to Tumbuktii ; from hence to Taudenni twenty-five days, where one must halt ; thence to Arrowan ten days, and stop again ; from thence to Tum- bucktu, five or six days ; but the whole distance is sometimes performed \\ ithout stopping : and this the Sheikh Beiruk says I must do for safety. The situation of Tumijuktu, as far as 1 can understand the account given by the Sheikh's sons, is very different to what is laid down on the map. They gave a flattering account of Hamed I^ibbo ; that he has recovered from all his losses, and has an army of 100,000 men, in good order, and • My prophet is Mahomet. Q 114 NOTES TAKEN DURING that one of his hands is stronger than both of the SultAn of Marocco : I have made great friends with these people. In the afternoon I was honoured with a Lab el Barod. I find I am obliged to keep myself somewhat like a jnisoner, through the fear of some Moors here. I have a bad foot, and besides am suffering from a disappointment. My party have not refused, but are afraid of proceeding. My expenses too have been and are still very great, and with little chance of their being- lessened : should the money from England not arrive, I am a lost man ; hence, I feel no little anxiety for the letters by the packet. The great S6k(S6k el Mulid)* commences to-morrow ; it is called Sok Aksa in the map, is distant twenty-two miles E. from hence, consequently the town of Nun is given incorrectly, for it is twenty-five miles E. of the sea. The river flows to the S. of it, the Bukukman runs E.S.E., and then turns S., and joins the large Sayad, which flowing W. past Assaka, there takes that name, and empties itself into the sea. Three days S. of the Assaka is the river of Dar'ah, which is said to run into the sea, at a point, three days distant from this place, and that all the country on the N. bank, and a slip on the S., is brought into cultivation. From the Sheikh's sons I learnt also that each ostrich yields from five to ten pounds of feathers; the young ones produce the least quantity : hence tlie birds average about seven pounds. The usual number of eggs found in a nest is fifteen, although most of the birds lay twenty. The Sherb el Kiht (drinker of the wind) generally comes up with the birils on the second morning after being put upon the track ; they kill them with short heavy sticks, about two feet long, and in most cases skin the birds, many of which arrived here quite perfect ; the feathers are packed in bundles, secured by pieces of the neck of tiie skin of the bird. Wednesday, June 15. — Therm. 70°. Weather much cooler. The Damanis are beginning to feel the difference of food. The slaves were astonished that 1 from my giving the preference to the chief Jew for making some bread : liis mother-in-law has been cruelly beaten : all are in arms and in a great passion. Tiie people with the small-pox are walking about, sad figures ; the only remedy used here is a small piece of stick, one end of which is covered with common tar, and occasionally forced up the nostrils.* I have now been here two months, and there has not been a single deatli out of a pojjulation of seven hundred grown persons, with hosts of ciiildren. The weather has become much cooler. Had another row about my food. I am almost starved. Mahmdd cut his stick t to-day. The sick are increasing, and I am heartily tired of them. Not over well myself. Friday, June 17. — Therm. 72°. The change of temperature has been felt severely. I learnt this morning that the Jews' quarrel arose from the jealousy of making my bread, and washing my clothes. A strange sort of justice is administered here; the beaten has been fined seven ducats, and the beater eight, because he was the richer person. I dare not in- tercede for my beaten friend ; and were I to pay the money for him, he would be compelled to pay it again when I leave this place. All gone to the Jennah, but the Sheikh, who is again demeaning himself with the poor and much to be pitied slaves. Would to God I could get away from this den of infamy and villainy: 1 see, however, but little chance of doing so. The Arabs, who the Moors call savages, are a superior race of beings to the wretches here. The son of the Sheikh of the Damani told me plainly this morning that he would not ask Beiruk even for bread to make a poultice, which I have recommended him to apply. I have no bread myself or I would give him some ; and • This is probably done partly to allay the itching, and partly to prevent the matter from collecting in the nose ; from whence it would discharge itself into the mouth, and passing from thence into the stomach produce a most horrible nausea. j; This is a cant phrase for going away; for it appears that Mr. D. was offended with him. q2 116 NOTES TAKEN DURING after this row amongst the Jews, I shall be worse off for food than ever. I received a dinner, but it cost me a dollar ; which is rather dear living. Sheikh Mohammed has rather offended me. Saturday, Jime 18. — Therm. 75°. Morning hazy, and feels scirocco-like; it became very hot towards the middle of the day. It is the glorious anniversary ; how will it go off in London after a peace of twenty- one years. Hamed Damani is quite recovered, and the Sheikh's eyes are better : the latter cannot understand how some small pills should make his mouth sore. Patients out of number, and myself out of temper, looking most anxiously for letters from Mr. Willshire, which now must be on the road. Under any circumstances, I cannot expect to get off' in less than a month ; but only let that be certain, and I shall be satisfied. Hope my letters from England will arrive at the end of this month. I try but in vain to study. The house is a perfect bear-garden; the room very dirty, and I dare not venture to clean it : my things, once out of doors, would all go to rack. These people and the Arabs from the desert, have no sort of idea of time, nor have they any thing to distinguish night from day : the only regularity is respecting the number of the times of prayer, ablution and eating : they sleep, eat and drink, as nature prompts them; and are always ready, if an extra bowl of food is bn)iieing one of the royal fiimily of England ; that I have plenty of money, and that the people of Sus intend making- me pay a larger sum for permission to return. We have counted too much on the Sheikh. This has quite upset me. Saturday, July 2. — Therm. 84°. Lots of wounded. Tiie trouble I have in persuading these people that all cannot bear the same quantity of medicine, is quite provoking. I have made up some bread-pills to complete the number, where one would require three, and another only two. Tiie Damiinis have dropt to one thousand dollars, but I have refused to give an answer till I hear from Mr.Willshire. I sent to inquire about the two Christian Spaniards, who are in the desert. Wrote to Lord Palmerston, at Sheikh Beiri'ik's request, and to Lord Glenelg, Thorn, and G. Dodd. Sat up till day-light, having to dispatch my courier early. Laid down just as the sun was rising. Sunday, July S. — Therm. 82°. The Sheikh came to me as soon as 1 had laid myself down. He told me that the Damanis were under an idea that I was a person of great consequence, and have large sums at my command ; and that they have only to ask and receive. He said that as 1 should be obliged to pay the one thousand dollars to get on either way, 1 had better make up my mind to it ; that he must admit his own agent had played the rascal, for he had not expended the sura he claims ; but as he has received the money from the consul, there is, I fear, little chance of getting any of it back again. Wrote to his Royal Highness, Lord Glenelg, Mr. Hay, &c. Sent for my double- barrelled pistols, but forgot the spectacles. Sent to Mr. Hay for some knives and other things from Gibraltar. Read the prayers, and took to my carpet early, as I had been up two nights. Monday, July 4. — Therm. 84°. Symptoms of great heat. Received a large present of Kermesd Nasai li, (fig of the Christians) and the prickly pear, (called Tagharnlip by the Berbers) ; they came very acceptably : there were also a few half-ripe pears and some apricots ; I am afraid of fruit, but ate some of the first. The Damanis are very anxious for my answer. The Sheikh Mohammed Miilid tells him, he will make R 2 124 NOTES TAKEN DURING an oath AHAD that he will conduct me in safety to Tumbuktu and Jennah, and that he will obtain for nie whatever I want from Hamed Libblj. I like this man ; but have been so often disap- pointed, that 1 have some fear of eventually changing- my opinion. He is more frank and open, and more like the man of his word, than any I have seen since I set my foot in Africa. Had great fun with the Taghakanth people, giving them some imitations of character. We are all friends. I was struck with the quiet and happy state of the slaves lately arrived here, who say they would not accept their liberty (»n condition of having to cross again the desert. This gives me a fearful idea of it ; but I will try it. Tuesday, July 5. — Therm. 84°. The Sheikh Mohanuned Mulid came to make his AHAD oath, that he would protect me, and do all in his power for me. Wrote to Mr. Willshire all particulars (of the infor- mation I had received), and likewise told him that Mons. Anthoine I) Abbadie intended to start from Tunis. Four slaves are here from Kong, who have told Abu that his cousin and school-fellow Kutukthe warrior, is now the king of Kong, and that his power extends to Asiianti. An Arab from some distance came in to-day with some savage-looking wretches : I was sitting or rather lying on the ground writing : I sent them off in a hurry ; but was afterwards told that the Arab was a great Sheikh, who, having heard of the arrival of a great Christian Sheikh, had come to pay me a visit. On his return I told him that he ought to have taken off his slippers ; he made a fair apology : 1 then asked iiim to sit down; when he said that he had heard of a Christian who could tell by a little magic thing, where any jilace in the world lay ; but tliat he could not believe the story, and had therefore come to ask me about it. I immoured the man, and got out my pocket compass, and told him to question me ; when I told him where each place was, and the number of days, which I had already learnt, between any two or more places. He then stated, that i>e had heard that I walked half the day and half ihf uJL^ht, and was never tired. Is (hat true! said he; to which when I replied in tiie allirmative, he asked to inspect my feet, and after count- TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 125 ing my toes, he told his companions that I had only five on each foot: he then examined the knee-pan and cried out W/ihed a'ed/i, ' only one ;' then taking me by the hand, he praised the prophet. From this, as usual, he asked to see every thing, when I had to open boxes, &c., and could hardly get him and his party away ; he then asked for a present ; a little tobacco did here, but as he is coming again to-morrow, (it will not be so easy to satisfy him). I learnt a good deal from Tayyeb about Tumbukti'i ; he says that it contains sixteen mosques, of which Sidi 'Alis is the larg- est ; that it takes two hours to go round the city, which now reaches to Kabrah ; and tliat has a village contiguous to it on the north ; that in these countries people walk but little : that its markets are now better than those of Jennah ; and that people come to it from all quarters. He states also that Lamdo Lillahi* stands on the river, whereas the map makes it appear twenty miles to the east. He lived till he was thirteen years old at Tumbuktft, and has been here more than two years : he knows more than most persons of his age ; but is a great scamp. His mother is one of HAmed Libb6's family, and I therefore put up with many of his rogueries. The heat has been very trying to-day. Wednesday, July 6. — Therm. 84°. At eleven a. m. the town was alarmed by the report that all the Sheikh's camels had been stolen. All the people mounted, and set off armed : even the women went out of the town on the road to Agadir, to see what was going on. At two p. m. most of the people returned : the report was only partially true. A few had been stolen, but the direction they had taken was known. Mohammed Sierra mounted my horse, and with two others went to get a reinforce- ment on the_road. The reports about the great power of the Sheikh, are all moonshine : it is in reality nothing. During my stay here, I have seen much of the African Arabs ; they differ greatly from the Asiatic: they are more wild in their appearance, but far more cultivated : nearly all of them can read, and a great many can write. I have been much pressed about giving my answer as to going on. I must wait one week more ; althougli I fear that the two months w ill have elapsed from the lime of deciding. Am very anxious for tiie villain Majibi and his party * El Hamdo li-llahi (praise be to God). 1-20 NOTES TAKEN DURING to leave rae ; 1 cannot bear the sight of that fellow, ever since I was con- vinced of his roguery. Am in some anxiety about my gold watch, as the Thillahs have stripped the last couriers that passed through S6s. This Majibi's villainy is capable of any thing. I gave him a rub this morning, and if I had only protection here, I would give him the stick. Thursday, July 7. — Therm. 76°. Had a large party to dinner to day, as the Sheiivh had killed a cow. These beasts have come to feast on the entrails, which they prefer to the meat ; on being asked what we did with them, I told them to their utter dismay, that we gave them to the common dogs, as well-bred ones would not touch them. Had some of the meat sent me, but it was not very palatable. I received likewise a pre- sent of unripe pears ; for these people will not permit the fruit to ripen. At one p. M. about thirty of the tribe of Assereit Terjmert arrived here: they are worse than any I have seen as yet : had a row with them. The Sheikh and all his people, who are evidently afraid of being asked for something by all new-comers, slink away, and leave me alone with every fresh batch of vagabonds : I told them my mind as well as 1 could, and then scolded them in English. At night the Aboudah Ich Saabi came, as it was expected, on a conference relative to this quarrel ; but as it tiu-ned out, they only came to gorge : a cow is not killed every day. There is a report, that two hundred horse will be here to-morrow, with what truth, time will show. Am happy to hear that the beasts from Mogador are to go back on Monday next. Friday, July 8. — Therm 82°. Felt poorly all day. Dies non. Saturday, July 9. — Tiierm. 82°. All are busy to-day in preparing for the kafilah, wiiicli is to start for Suweirah on Monday. Feel far from well. Went to the medicine chest : but find that the least dose disagrees with me. Renewed rumours of wars. The Danu'mis are anxious for my answer, and I am equally anxious to give one. I know not how things will go on. Am sick of the whole affair, and feel a pre- sentiment that it will be a failure. Sunday, July 10°. — Tlierm. 82. Read prayers. The weather is heavy and sultry. This has proved one of the most trying days for the TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 127 constitution, as the excessive heat lias been succeeded by a very cold wind in the evening, and tliis followed by a most sultry niglit. All the people are fully occupied in preparing for tlie kafilah, which is to start to-morrow morning with ivory, gum, &c. ; I find thattlie ivory sells here at seventy mitcal the canter, while at Mogador it brings sixty dollars : the quantity of it is enormous. Felt very poorly all day, and did not go out. Monday, July 11. — Therm. 84°. All has been bustle to-day. The kafilah liad liardly started, when the two hundred horse arrived. They came to hold a conference about going to war with a neighbouring tribe, as one of the Sheikh's friends had been killed by a Marabout of that people : after a long consultation, it was agreed, that as the Marabout was 7wn compos, there could be no intention of an insult, and thus in- stead of a fight we had a feast. The Damanis are preparing to be off, as my answer is expected to-morrow. I fear I must give all the money : it is an anxious time for me. There is a great talk about my long stay, and some of the Shilhah* people are not over civil. The Sheikh, poor man, is desirous to pay me every attention ; but he is fear- ful of enforcing a proper authority over these people. Money is his curse, and he is avarice personified. The heat is excessive. Tuesday, July 12. — Therm. 84°. The heat is beyond every thing- to-day ; the sun literally scorches : all are gasping. The slaves are lying about. The Arabs say, that in the Sahra on such a day, twenty draughts of water would not quench the thirst. It is one of the hot winds. I have been walking for more than two hours to the astonishment of the natives. Evening came, but no post. The heat still tremendous. 1 have been drinking tea for more than an hour, and am still thirsty. Sent out again respecting the Spanish slaves : hope to get the poor fellows. There has been a slight quarrel between the Sheikh and his son ; but matters are, I suppose, now made up, as the son came to pray in his father's room. Some ostrich marrow was sent to me to purchase, but I will not buy it without some eggs. Patients are beginning to be troublesome again. I feel myself somewhat better than yesterday. * Berbers. 128 NOTES TAKEN DURING Wednesday, July 13. — Therm. 86°. Symptoms of summer. Am look- ing most anxiously for tlie post. The Damanis have all left, except Mohammed and Hamed, who are waiting for Mr. Willshire's answer. I gave them a present which cost me thirty-nine ducats : they were highly pleased, and so was the Sheikh. At three p.m. the thermometer under the colonnade was at 100°, and though there is a breeze, the sun is scorching. All are done up. As there was no post, I was in very bad spirits, and went early to rest : hope to get a little sleep. Thursday, July 14. — Therm 84°. To-day all are done up and out of temper, with the exception of Abu. The heat is excessive ; we are all stripped to our shirts. Evening brought a cooling breeze, and this brought back our spirits. I was obliged to lie down early, oozing at every pore. Despite my little food, and the great heat, have picked up most of my lost flesh. Am in great anxiety for the post ; it has not arrived to-day ;if it does not come to morrow, 1 shall suspect something has gone wrong. Friday, July 15. — Therm. 84°. Dies non. Out of health, spirits and temper. No post. Saturday, July 16. — Therm. 84°. Felt very poorly ; kept ray bed. Getting out of all patience, as no post has arrived. Am in great anxiety about my watch and letters from England. All this is owing to the villain Majibi. Sunday, July 17. — Therm. 86°. Passed a bad night: was up early and went out to bathe. Read the prayers. Was in hopes of the post arriving at the usual time : disappointed. Sent Ab6 to the market, who brought nothing I could eat; there was no fruit or vegetables. I can- not manage the kuskusCi. Received a present of six bunches of grapes from a poor slave boy, to whom I had given some medicines ; he had walked out to meet the people coming to market, and had bought all they had. Sent a present of a loaf of sugar to the beautiful Jewess by Ab about twenty-five shillings. This is a sore subject for the Siieikh,* who has had a quarrel with his women, and they will not supply me. I really pity the man. Monday, July 25. — Therm. 8G°. JVlt a little better; but as 1 was still poorly, kept to the house. No incident. Tuesday, July 20. — Therm. 78°. Day cold and cloudy. There was a large arrival from iJamara. Felt very poorly to-day ; these sudden • Because it was a proof of the Sheikh's want of hospitality, in compelling Mr. D. to pur- chase his food. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 133 clianjjes almost kill me. Got at last a fowl to-day, and ate a little. Complained .>ving-. There was an addition to our party. Did not go out. House the best place. Had a new dish to-day ; stewed quinces and meat: it was not bad, but I had no appetite. Tiiursday, July 28. — Therm. 78°. Not so well to-day; kept to the house. In the evening a party from Taghakdnth brought intelligence of the war still raging. Friday, July 29. — Therm. 77°. Day rine; went out a little: am much better, thank God. Saturday, July 30. — Therm. 75°. The night has been cool, and very pleasant. Went out a little this morning : towards the middle of the day the heat returned with great power. A simum is blowing in the desert ; we are all covered with dust, and the houses are perfectly obscured. I tried the water again to-ilay : a ((uart was exposed from one to three p.m. in a tea-pot, on the top of the house ; it rose to 112°; at four P.M. it had reached 125°, when it came into service, being half- boiled, to fill up the tea-kettle. We are to have three or four oppressive days again. Spirits very low. Took a half pint of the Jevvs' brandy, having a very cholera-feel. Sunday, July 31. — Therm. 80°. Passed a very bad night. Walked out a little. Read the prayers, and mean to fast to-day. In the after- noon we felt the simt'an again, and the night was oppressive in the extreme. Monday, Aug. 1. — Therm. 8fci°. The whole horizon buried in a cloud of dust. The mountains to the S. and S.E. were not visible ; the cattle exhibit a disinclination to go to their pastures. We are to have a sweltering day, by all appearance. We are looking out for the post, which, we suppose, was stopt yesterday by the excessive heat, and will not now reach us before to-morrow. Felt very poorly this evening. Tuesday, Aug. 2. — Therm. 80°. Very poorly, and kept to the house. Wednesday, Aug. 3. — Therm. 75°. Much cooler. There is a strong 134 NOTES TAKEN DURING breeze, but the dust still comes from the desert. For the three last nights wo have been annoyed with the jackalls, who have been driven in from the Sahra. Felt a little better to-day, and went out for an hour. No appetite. This confinement is very sad. Received large presents of unripe fruit. These people will leave nothing to ripen ; they are perfect hogs. A host of jackalls have made their appearance. Gave Abu a lesson in medicine ; made him number the bottles in the chest, for fear of being too ill to go to it myself, and he should poison me. We have some misgivings about the post, which is three days behind its time. Persons have been dispatched to look after the postman. Thursday, Aug. 4. — Therm. 70°. A high wind, with dust, wliich nearly blinded us all. Feel rather better to-day. Still no post, and all in anxiety. Fridav, Aug. 5. — Therm. 76°. Weather much pleasanter. The night cool, and not so many vermin. Received a fine present of grapes. This evening the post came in, but brought no letters. The Sheikh is in a great rage about a letter, which that rascal, Majibi, has written ; who now that he has been blown upon, is trying to make mischief. Affairs are rather ticklish. I have a hard game to play to keep all matters right. There is some unpleasant talk about the length of my stay, and some not very pleasing hints to the Sheikh about his treatment of me. I have tried to put every thing in a correct light. Saturday, Aug. 6. — Therm. 78°. Fine day. Feel somewhat better. There has been another tight between the Jews about my food and washing. 1 fear tlie Sheikh leans to the scoundrel, whose wife is more free-looking than Fehedia, whom he cannot seduce: tlie case is to be heard to-morrow. Sunday, Aug. 7. — Tlicrin. 7(>°. Early tliis morning Sidi IMohamuied El Fakir arrived from Suweiraii, bringing me a letter, together with tea, sugar, and coffee, from Mr. Willshire, and a present of fruit from him.self. By the letter 1 learnt lliat tlio Siieikh had written to Mr. Willsliire for the money for the journey, which the Sheikh said he had pai>l tlit IJam^inis. I dc* hdI, nor does Mr.Willshire, like this paying TRAVELS IN AFRICA. I3'> before liuiul. Hail a large party at breakfast; there was one Miil^i 'Ali, and some hogs of Berbers. Read the prayers, and prepared to catch the Sheikh. He promises to give me an acknowledgment, that I shall have nothing to pay on my arrival at Tnnibukti'i, and that all shall be right. There are no signs of my tent coming back. Sidi Mohannned, who is anxions that I should not go on, brought his son, the only really learned man here, who is to write privately to Mr. Willshire, should any thing happen to me. I am more than ever pleased with the Fakir, and feel great satisfaction in having a person who can communicate, if necessary, with Suvveirah, unknown to tiie Sheikh. I am not over easy that all is quite safe : these are a thankless people, and are now very angry that I have complained so much of the bad treatment I have experienced. I shall make friends with this young man, and try what can be done througli him, in case of need. Feel much better to-day. Monday, Aug. B. — Therm. 7H°. The house is full of visitors again, and my pest, the Sheikh Hammo, has returned. Abu was puzzled to- day in some questions about Haji Majibi. Gave him a lesson to-night; but he is a very dull scholar : he has no idea of position,* nor can I make him understand the drawing of the ka'bah. Some mischief is at work from that rascal, Majibi, who has gone back toSuweirah. I will catch him yet. Feel better to-day, and am beginning to be myself again. Tuesday, Aug. 9.— Therm. 78°. Up early, and out to breakfast. The post arrived with letters from Mr.Willshire, who says that he has sent half the money for the journey ; but that no pesetas were to be procured, and therefore the remaining half would be sent by H4ji 'Abib, whom Mr. W. insists upon coming here to see me off— an event which now seems doubtful. I do not like this payment of all the money before hand, as I may be left on the road, although I have great faith in the Damanis. I had some high words with the Sheikh. His people owe Mr. Willshire five thousand dollars, and would not take a credit • Mr. D. perhaps meant to say, that Ab6 had no idea of the relative bearings of places. 136 NOTES TAKEN DURING for the one thousand. My good opinion of the Sheikh all oozing away. He is a beastly miser. Wrote to Mr. W. Felt done up again by this business. Wednesday, Aug. 10. — Therm. 66°. The night was so cold, that 1 had to get up, and put on some clothes ; and this morning the glass shews a fall of 10°. Felt this change very sensibly, and the more so as I have been out of temper since yesterday's row with the Sheikh. As there were symptoms of heat, I tried the thermometer, and found that it stood At 10 A.M. in the shade 80° in the sun 110°. — 12 M 82° 124°. — 2p.m 82° 120°. _ 6 76° 83°. — 10 in doors 75° outof doors 70°. I feel rather uneasy about the arrangements. Heard of a party going to Tumbuktu in ten days. I have been told not to pay all the money before hand. Am determined to speak again to the Sheikh, even if I am to give up the thing. All parties here are agreed as to my having been ill treated. I fear this man is now bent on plunder. 1 mean to dispatch a courier privately to Mr. ^^'illshire to-morrow. I cannot allow myself to be robbed with impunity. My treatment is now as bad as ever, and if the money be once paid, I shall never get on. Thursday, Aug. 11. — Therm. 70°. It begins to feel very cold. All the people have taken to their Sulhams. A man was shot through the ankle, and they came to me for some camphor, their sovereign remedy. I told them that all mine was gone, and desired them to go to Mesud. This strange fellow was born a Jew, and is now a Muselman. He is mucli looked up to. He too said that all his camplior was gone ; but was sure tiiat I had some ; for he had seen a great many J inns* about at this j)lace, and one or two big ones at Agader, where I go sometimes, and he was sure that they came for my cani|)h()r ; that they stole a great deal of his, and were very fond of it, and would come a long way to get it. Finding, however, the ;ip|)licant, who was the father of tiie boy, * Genii spirits. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 137 to be greatly distressed for the want of the camphor, I give him a little and some plasters. Mes'iid told him how to tie it up, and Abu had to write a charm to keep away the Jinns, and prevent them attacking the boy on the road, which Mes'iid said they would be sure to do unless he took the sjiell with him. Abu wrote two extra cliarms for the Taleb, on the condition that he would shew me his book of magic to-morrow. Friday, Aug. 12. — I'horm. 70°. Had a great row with the Sheikh, who has over-shot the mark ; I fear we shall (juarrel yet, and the thin}>- fail entirely. Got the book on magic, but had to pay a mithkal for look- ing at it. Saturday, Aug. 1:3. — Therm. 70°. Weather cloudy and wind cold. Towards noon, I had a great row with Sidi Salam, and theatened to leave the house; I have frightened them a little, but made myself ill again. Sunday, Aug. 14. — Therm 63°. It feels quite cold ; I have taken to clothe again. The people are preparing to go to the Mulid at Muwah, which takes place on Wednesday. Read the prayers. A sand wind from the desert, which nearly blinded us : at five p.m. the glare was so vivid as to distress the eyes ; one could see the doors of the houses, and the faces of all the people in the S6k. It had also the effect of the mirage in giving a gigantic appearance to all persons ; we could distinguish even the tracks on the mountains, which were some miles distant : it lasted above an hour. A Jew lad, who has been in the habit of bringing me food, came with his schoolmaster, the Rabbi, to take leave ; he can repeat the whole of the Pentateuch, although he is unable to read a letter: his schoolmaster told me he had been teaching him to be a tradesman, not a scholar. The lad got a dollar from me to pay his expenses on the road. The Sheikh is not yet returned. Monday, Aug. 15. — Therm. 72°. Wind strong. A large kdfilah is starting for Suweirah. The Sheikh is to come back this evening. I am sick at heart. Fasted to-day, partly out of spite to these people, and partly by way of medicine. T 1:58 NOTES TAKEN DURING Tuesday, Aug. 16. — Therm. 72''. This was rather an interesting mornin"-. The Arabs who are about to return to the Sahra, came for the Mazkat Allah. This is a kind of tithe given of the barley, only to those people whose land will not produce any, and whose occupation as guides to tlie kafilahs prevent tiiem from tilling the ground. It is not however the unjust tithe on the industry and capital of the English farmer ; but is a tenth of the actual increase — in the scriptural mean- ins:. The seed-corn is deducted, together with the quantity requisite for the wages of the labourers, and the cost of tillage, and gathering the produce; of which one tenth of the actual increase is given. There was a great variety of character (deportment), and a blessing was given to, and by each person as he came for and went away with his share. In this manner they obtain corn enough for nearly all their wants. A few presents were brought for the Sheikh, who I could see, gave grudgingly, and in return asked very anxiously, if they wanted to buy any thing. I had a great row with Sheikh Hammod, and nearly came to blows. Tiiis fellow is the greatest hog I have ever seen. I am very anxious to hear again from Suweirah; had Kadi 'Ali been here, I would have left the house this morning. To-day was the ceremony of swearing faith to the Sheikh, and of protection to the kafilahs to and from Wad Nun. Por- tions of the Koran were read ; the Ahdah* taken, and faith pledged, accom- panied Ijy tiie ceremony of stepping over a stone. I ha\ e frightened the Sheikh, and I hope to some purpose : but matters are hard to arrange. Wednesday, Aug. 17. — Therm. 74. Tiiese Arabs of the Sahrd are certainly the men in Belzoni's tomb, witii their curls standing out, and dresses close to their necks, and feathers in their heads; none of them ever wear turbans. Some have a string of pearls (islik) ; some a cord ; but the generality are content with their tiiick woolly curls, that make the head look like a mop, or the hair upon a poodle dog. Tiiey are a slim race, but very hardy and courageous. Two large wolves were killtd tliis luitrning. AN e are looking out for the post. The wind is • This is the same engagement as that taken by Mohammed Mulid. TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 139 hi"li liut with the haze over the mountains, the fore-runner of a return of the lieat. At eleven a. ri. it blew a perfect hurricane. The Sini^m* felt like the blast of a furnace. The thermometer rose suddenly from eighty-five degrees to ninety-tive degrees. The heat was terribly oppressive ; we all felt it, and the jioople were lying about and panting, and all work was suspended. This lasted till one p.m. and has so heated the air, that there is no moving. The Sheikh says there will be two or three such days : that we are lucky in not having started ; but that the weather will then become settled. This is the ap|)roach of their second summer. I have this day had a proper explanation. The Jew has been sent for, and ordered to purchase every thing requisite on pain of banishment, and to bring in a weekly bill of my expenses. The poor fellow at first thought I had been making a complaint ; but has gone away quite satisfied. There are symptoms, I am sorry to see, of further detention. At half-past two p. m. the hurricane returned ; when the whole air was loaded with dust that made the sun look red. The thermometer, was, in the sun, one hundred and twenty-one degrees, and at three p. m. one hundred and twenty-six degrees; in the shade, one hundred degrees and one hundred and one degrees respectively; with a very trying wind, E. S. E. This has been a thirty-drink day. The heat at night was excessive. I am to go to the Jew's to-morrow with • Amongst the papers of Mr. D. was found the following description of the Siraum, written while it was passing: — •" To describe the awful scourge of the desert defies all the powers of language. The pencil assisted by the pen might perhaps afford a faint idea of it. Winged with the whirlwind, and chariotted in thunder, it urged its fiery course, blasting all nature with its death-fraught breath. It was accompanied by a line of vivid light, that looked like a train of fire, whose murky smoke filled the whole wide expanse, and made its horrors only the more vivid. The eye of man, and voice of beast were both raised to heaven, and both then fell upon the earth. Against this sand-tempest, all the fortitude of man fails, and all his efforts are vain. To Providence alone must he look. It passed us, burying one of my camels. As soon as we rose from the earth, with uplifted han\t\ liiin of every thing, and lli;it mw hundred and ten dol- TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 149 lars, including- the present pieniiuiu on the pesettas, had been paid to the Sheikh for the Tagakanths. He lifted up his hands and said, it ought not to have been more than half that sum. Besides I have brouglit him, said I, a present amounting to one hundred and eiglity dollars, and that lie has asked for guns, which will cost him from six to seven hundred dollars more. INloreover, I lunc promised, if 1 am satified with liis conduct, to send him pistols, powder, &c. ; that I had left the money in your hands. He got up, and said, it was too bad ; but as I had paid the money, it was no use to say anything more ; it was gone without the chance of recovery. He thinks, and so do I, that the Sheikh and his party will give themselves no further trouble about the matter. Zain and his friends are the people, who, as I told you some time since, offered to carry me to Tumbuktu for five hundred dollars, and not to receive any money until they had delivered me there in safety. The third and j)rin- cipal matter 1 have to communicate is, that Sidi All Ben lift is gone to join the caravan going to Tumbuktu ; he came here last night to tell me so. No sooner, however, was it known in the Sheikh's room that he was there, than they sent Huji 'Abib to bring him to them. At first he refused to go ; but afterwards he went, and tlien came back and staid witii me till late. He says that he will go through all Sudan with me, and even back to England, if I wish it. He begged me to visit him this morning, and I have just left him. He wants me not to hurry the kafi- lali ; and from what I could collect from his conversation with Hameii, he is disposed to give a large sum to delay the kafilah one month longer, and a good sum to delay it twenty days. This he says, is to give him time to arrange his affairs, but I know too well it is to get further instructions from Fez. I have stated decidedly that I will not wait twenty days. This Sidi Ali would be of great use as a protector, but I want none. My mind is made up, I am sorry to say, to leave my bones in Sudan, and it is as firmly made up to make a severe example before I fall. I am determined, on the least treachery I see here or on the road, to fire first, and my pistols never miss, I feel that I am in bad hands here. Close and Moor-like as Sidi Ali is, I wormed out of him loO NOTES TAKEN DURING that there was some fear lest I should divert a most lucrative trade into another channel. Sidi All will not believe that I have paid the sum I stated ; so trifling is the hire of camels to Tumbuktu, that they leave it to chance, and even with the salt they are glad to obtain ten mithkals, not of gold ; but merely the ten a camel-load for the salt, including cost and carriage ; as it is the back carriage that pays. All here are in great commotion, since they have learnt about Sidi Ali, and they know not what to do. I am sorry for Haji 'Abib, who is really concerned about this bad treatment. He comjjlains sadly of the food ; and his servant, who has beenfour times to Tumbuktu, says the dogs there live better than the Sheikh here. He cannot eat the food, and means to cook for himself He is preparing a little meat for me, but I cannot buy a pot to put it into. I stated in my last that I was not going to put on any disguise. I have been so accustomed to the dirt and filth in which I have been living for some time past, that it has be- come quite natural to me. You, perhaps, know more about Khovut than any other person, and when I tell you I have been living in Kliotu, sleeping on it for nearly three months, you can form a pretty good idea of my disguise. I never expect to become white again. My beard is very long, my hair is cut close to the head, leaving one long tuft over the left ear, my bare legs and arms are covered with tiie bites of \ ermin ; my cheek bones are very prominent, and teeth very sharp from having little or nothing to do. " I have told you a great deal about Sheikh Beruk, but the finishing stroke was put to it tiiis morning. I yesterday purchased two sheep, to prepare a little meat to serve me (Mther to go or return. After cutting what meat I could ofiliie bones, and putting this aside, one of the slaves was sent from the iiouse to bring them away, there being enough for the dinner, and the small pieces were of no use to me. 1 asked the girl why she was taking them away? She replied, ' the Sheikh had sent her for them.' This conduct was strongly contrasted with that of Sidi Ali, who sent for Abl'i, and told him that he had heard 1 was buying meat, but he would not allow it ; there were plenty of people to TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 151 l)uy and cook meat for me, if necessary ; and he would not have it said, that a stranger was buyini^ his food while he was in their country. " I am daily at the tents of the Tagakiinths, and the ladies, not one, but several, have openly asked mo to pass the night with them ; an arrangement to whicli their husbands make not the least objection. The Sheikh alone, who is no great favourite, is jealous of the little attention shewn to others. Ilaji 'Abib says, he does not know how to manage these people. He is too close-fisted for them. " H;imed has just been here (Saturday p. m). I asked him to sit down ; he said he was ashamed, and would not sit in my room, till his father came or sent a letter, bidding him to bring me on. " I wrote a hasty P. S. about the medicines for the Sultdn. My friend, G. D — d, tells me that two such chests were never sent from any house: besides the medicines, of silver, glass and copper, mortars of glass and slabs for pills and ointments, I ordered the best work on medicine, the latest on diseases of the eye, and the paper of anatomical figures made at Paris, which are taken to pieces by leaves, and through which the medical schools in Egypt and Persia are taught anatomy, as religious prejudices in those countries do not permit persons to make use of dead subjects for dissection. I likewise ordered several cases of bottles of Seidlitz and other powders for Sidi Ben Ali. All these I know have been sent, and I have paid for them : their non- arrival is owing probably to the want of proper directions to the Kaid of Tangier to forward them on : the matter should be really looked into for the national credit. " Sunday. — Some observations have been made about my bones, and I was this morning told they were taken to make soup for the Sheikhs party in the garden, to which they all thought I should go ; but I am too poorly to stir out. At length there is news from the tents, ordering all to be ready on Friday next to leave on Saturday or Sunday. I shall not believe it, till I am really on my camel. I have got no bread as yet. "Wednesday Evening. — Your welcome letter, with the parcel, reached lo2 NOTES TAKEN DURING this place yesterday evening : the messenger wanted to return this day ; but I was totally unable to hold a pen yesterday, and can but ill manage writing to-day. Ever since Sunday 1 have been upon my carpet alarmingly ill. This it appears is the sickly season of Wad Nun : my first attack was ophthalmia. From this the disorder went to the throat, and I had what they call a falling of the palate, and to such an extent, that, after finding no relief from strong blisters and gargling, and fearing sufibcation, I was about to cut a hole in my throat to admit of breathing ; but Haji 'Abib, the Sheikh, the Jews, &c. all begged me to try the remedy of the country ; and for the last two days I have had a stick covered with tar poked down my throat, and have inhaled the fumes of boiled tar twice or thrice a-day. I am now wonderfully better, and am able to speak and swallow hot liquids, though I cannot the saliva. The quantity of this secretion has quite astonished me : there has been a continued discharge for hours together, and amounting during the night to above a quart. Hiimed has been particularly atten- tive, and so have all ; and all have been frightened not a little. To-day I have had some severe palpitations, for which, if they return, I shall l)leed myself till I faint, and repeat this as often as nature will allow. I do, perhaps, wrong in writing, but 1 know your kindness and good feeling would make you more anxious, should you hear of my illness through any other channel. " I am sorry I cannot answer your questions. Nobody knows when we are to go: Hauied says, it is not the Sheikh's fiiult ; that the times are difficult. His father will be here to-morrow or the day after; and we shall start the next day. If he comes to-night, we shall be ofl" to-morrow. I have sent Abd to see about some cakes from the Jews. The letters to England must have miscarried, as there were some private ones of mine that would certainly have been answered. " I have been obliged to coin an answer to the Siicikh, and telling him that it will Ix- time enough to think of commercial intercourse, as soon as he should have i)erfornied his engageuicnts witii me, and for the execution of which he had been paid before hand. He begins to feel TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 153 alarmed, and is half ashamed of himself. I cannot write now what he has disclosed ; but I shall be at him again before the messenger departs. " Friday night. — I am much better, although I do not consider myself rjuite out of danger. 1 was obliged to make four incisions in the throat by the knife, before I could obtain relief. I will go to-morrow, if the people come, of which there appears but little chance. I would readily step into the grave to get away from this place ; the thought of dying here, to be plundered by the Sheikh and his crew of vagabonds, annoys me more than my bodily sufllrings. Ab6 is quite useless : his fear makes him totally lielpless ; but this only serves to rouse me. Ilaji Abibs servant, Fahir, has certainly saved me for the present. This strange fellow wants to leave- his master, and come to me. I do not think this would be fair on my part; I shall, however, sound his master on the subject, who first made the offer for me to take him : but I believe the wretches here do not wish the boy to go back to Sudan, as he knows too many of their dirty tricks. One circumstance alone keeps up my spirits ; all my predecessors started in good health and failed. Bruce, in w hose career and my o^^ n are many singular coincidences, started in nearly the same shattered state of health, after a detention in Abys- sinia of six months, as I do now, and yet he succeeded ; and so, perhaps, may 1 ; but my hopes are very faint. " Saturday, four p.m. — I have this day spoken again to the Sheikh; but he fights shy of every question. I shall, therefore, tell Abib to-night, that I cannot stand this trifling any longer, and that on Monday I expect to have my money returned. It is all nonsense that I cannot get through Sudan before tlie rainy season commences, and it would be certain death in my state of health to think of braving thera out. I have been shamefully used. The Sheikh and Majibi have played this game to suit their own views, without caring a straw for you or me : the former came snivelling about his expectation of a ship arriving, and that traders would be glad to come here. I told him that nobody believed in his power, and that the best proof of his weakness was his inability to send me on. I perceive tiiat you have a great idea of his influence; but X 154 NOTES TAKEN DURING a week's residence here would convince you, that with the exception of his own immediate dependants, not a soul would go out of the way to serve him ; he is a mean, low, avaricious, and crafty savage ; an arrant coward, and one who grudges even the barley that is daily served out for brute and beast. There is often more disturbance about overfilling the measure, than would take place in England if the Bank had failed. You seem to think there is some danger in his taking offence : you need not fear on tliat head, as he knows that he would then have to give the money back again. " Sunday, p.m. — I have told the Sheikh, that as the 15th October is now past, my orders were to wait no longer ; and tliat as theTaghakanths had not made their appearance, I expected he would either return the money, or send me on, or let me take my own steps for proceeding to Tumbuktu. I had just laid down, after having read the prayers, and while Abii was at the market, when I heard some high words outside of the door, and in came the Sheikh, Abib, and Hamed. The first was foaming with rage ; the second blushing up to his turban ; while HAmed was sinking to the ground, like one doomed to die. All were talking, and in my weak state it was too much for me : being, however, an old soldier in argument, and finding all the party in anger, I kept myself more than ordinary cool. As soon as I could get them to speak one at a time, I found that some reports from Suweirah had reached this place, accusing the Sheikh of having played the rogue, and of having kept half the money of the Taghakanths for liimself ; and that the scandal had even extended to Fez. The Sheikh asked, in a threatening manner, if Hained had told me so. Perceiving that the doom of the poor lad would be fixed, if I told the truth, I was obliged to deny it. Had I not done so, the Siieikh, I am certain, would have killed the lad on the spot. The Sheikh then broke out in no measured terms against all of us; and though he confessed 1 had good reason to comi)lain, he swore he had not taken a single morznuni for liimself; and that he would not allow his character to be trifled with. He said tauntingly, that all he liad idinine was a gun, a caftan, and throe suilhams; and he TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 155 would give them back, and I might make out my hill for the other tilings, and he would pay for them. At this juncture Ab6 returned, and 1 requested him to tell tiie Sheikli, that I was not a merchant, and knew nothing about bills ; that if he tbund any difficulty in fulfilling his engagements, my bill was a very simple one ; he iiad only to return the 1,000 dollars in pesetas, and the 350 paid to Ilamed, and to send me back to the place from whence he brought me ; that I did not care to go on, as it was plain he could not insure my safety. This quite cooled him; and he turned round to poor Hamed, and bade him get his horse; ride to the tents ; bring his father and people, and let them answer me. The poor fellow was shipped off by Abib, who now took up the subject, and stated that the Slieikh's character had been injured by a report, said to have come from you, that he has taken the Taghakanths' money, and was now unwilling to send me on. Upon this there was lots of swearing, &c., and the Sheikh became so warm, that he drank about a gallon of water, and left us, saying that, if the Taghakanths did not come in ten or fifteen days at farthest, he would take me back to Agadir. As soon as he was gone, I told Abib that, from the size of the parcels given me to keep by Mohammed El Abd and Hamed Mulid, I did believe they had received one-half of the amount, and that you were to send the second half to me and not to the Sheikh, and I would pay it over to the Taghakanths, or to him, if they stated they had received the whole sum. At this moment the Sheikh returned, and muttered something about the Taghakanths owing him money, and that if he had paid himself, it was the same as paying it to them. This is probably what led Hamed to believe and say that the Sheikh had paid only half, and had kept the remainder for himself. Hamed was now left alone with us. He said the Sheikh would murder him, if he knew that it was he who had spread the report. He then left me to get his horse ; but the order was countermanded, and he is now with me eating some bread, and watering it with his tears. Abib says, he does not know what to do; but hopes that I will wait the fifteen days. Sidi Ali Ben lift told Ab6 in the market to-day, that if we get away in less X 2 156 NOTES TAKEN DURING than a mouth, he would give me leave to cut off his head. There is certainly some by-play here. This Sidi Ali has been using every means to dissuade me, and there is no doubt that his going is connected nith my movements. I am sorry I can give you no certain news about tiie Spanish slaves. The man left here nearly a month ago, and seemed very careless about the matter, when he found that he was not to have a present or money before starting. I am making Abu collect whatever information he can pick up. News has just been brought that the Taghakanths are moving their tents, as the Ergebats have threatened to fall upon the kafilah as soon as it starts, to wreak their vengeance for the last attack. I am happy to tell you I am much better; but this blow of the Simum, with which, it appears, I have been struck, has been very serious. I have a low ague ; Ijut feel too much pain in the chest when I cough to venture upon quinine. Between ourselves 1 have reason to be glad of this delay. I have had a little cake made by the Jews, but very indifferent and dear ; I hope I shall now get the bread." The next letter, which is the last that was written from Wad Nun. relates some of the circumstances to which allusion is made by Mr. ^\ illshire, and w hich have been already printed m the Journal of the Geographical Society. It is dated " Saturday, Nov..'), 18.30. " My pen almost refuses to write AVad Nun. Your kind letter reached me this morning, and I can answer it in better spirits, because I am liappy to say my health is imjiroving fast; but I cannot say much about my conHdence in the success of the enterprize. The start is to be on Monday ; although I do not go on that day. Every thing is now packed up, and ready to be placed upon the camels, with \\ hich Abu starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if 1 liad sent him on; Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distanct; made by the camels the fu'st day, we start on horseback, accompanied by tiie Sheikh lJer6k, and about a half-dozen horsemen, and we are to make Yeist, if possible, in one day. There I leave the district of Wad Nun; and lo that place is a three TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 157 ilays" journey for loaded camels. I there leave my horse, and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents. It has been j)ositively stated to the Sheikh, that we are to stop only the nii;ht at the tents ; but this is false: I have become so used to the language of the Taghakiinths, that I understand more than they think ; and I heard that we should be there two or three days at least, if not more. The journey is to be made in the shortest time possible. Ber6k says thirty days; my conductor, however, adds five or six ; to this, he says, tiiat we shall go as a post, and form a })arty of only five, including Abu and myself. " Molianmietl El Abd came again at night, and there was again a sort of grumbling about the expense. I asked why I was to pay 230 mithkals for a camel, when the usual hire for a kafilah was only from ten to twelve? This was a silencer. Instead of being the lions of the desert, they are only the jackals, and pay tribute to even a single Arab, who happens to cross them on the route. The Woobd Allah (Zein's people) are the persons with whom I ought to have gone: they are still wailing here, and Zein has stalled this morning for Akka, to know the reason. 1 have at last got the account of the things 1 have purchased here, and which I have signed, requesting you to pay the amount to Abib. It is fifty-one and a-half dollars, to which will be added the price of a tiiick haik, if one can be procured. " Night. — Mohammed El Abd has been here again, and I have read to him what I have written to you, and added, tiiat all will now look to him, not only to protect me, but to send me on. He shewed me his letters to the two principal persons, and one of them is the great Mara- bout, whose word alone is enough to protect me. His letters state, tiiat I am an Englishman ; that the English have been always the friends of the Mussulman ; that they are all their support ; for they buy all the produce, and furnish all the things that are consumed in this country. " Beriik is so proud of the very idea of a ship coming to his territory, that he has ordered Hdji Abib to write to every body who can assist us in the least. He brings me new milk with his own hand ; he is here ever and anon, and by keeping a jog upon his responsibility, all may 158 NOTES TAKEN DURING yet be well. I have quite frightened Mohammed El Abd, by tellino^ him of our power to stop the trade, and to make him personally respon- sible, if I am detained even at Tumbuktii. " Midnight. — My party remained here very late ; I feel that after the dressing I gave my conductor this morning, I have got once more the upper hand of all the party, and will now keep it. To-day I have parted with all my hair, the last remains but one of Christian appear- ance, and taken up the Tisbeah. On Monday I shall have to do with- out an interpreter, and on Wednesday, it is now said, we are to put on the turban and start. You shall hear from the tents, if possible ; but this is not a very easy matter, as there are four tribes at war on the route, and no man dares go singly : as much as eleven mithkals have been refused to carry a letter ; but I suppose that for his own sake, the Sheikh will arrange this. Abu is quite well, but not in the highest spirits. Let me assure you once more how grateful I am for all the trouble and anxiety you have taken in this matter. May Heaven bless and reward you and yours, and may we meet again in good old England, and there over our honest glass talk over the difliculties we have con- quered. I do not wish to boast too much ; but I do feel that few men would have gone through even what I have suffered already, and God knows I have much before me yet : but a merciful Providence has hitherto preserved me through many and great dangers, and on this 1 firmly rely." At last, after a delay of nearly seven months, Mr. D. was fairly en route for tlie goal of his travels — Tumbuklli. But he had scarcely en- tered the desert, when he perished by the hand of the assassin. His last letter is the following, dated " Yeist, Tuesday, November 15th, 1030. " Tliis is the fourtli day since my arrival here, and as yet I am uncertain about getting on. Having a spare hour to myself, for all the town have gone out in the exjtcclation of an attack, 1 take the opportunity of writ- ing up my journal. We did not actually start on Monday, as I stated, but all was in readiness, and wo began by moving our things on that TRAVELS IN AFRICA. loO day. 1 had ioni>- predicted that tliere would be no rain, till 1 was allowed to depart ; a prediction that turned out true to the letter. On Tuesday, scarcely had the remainder of the haiiiiage been moved to the tents, and the horses saddled, when it rained in such torrents as to make it impossible to set out. It was, therefore, arranged for myself to start at midnight with the horse party, and for AbCi to follow at break of day with the camels and baggage. The whole night was, however, passed in discussing what route we should take, and day had fairly dawned before all preparations were completed. We all started al)out seven A. M., but took diflerent routes out of the town. I was accompanied by the Sheikh Beruk and Hiiji Abib to the hill outside the town, where they took leave of me, and I was then committed to the care of the Sheikh Mohammed El Abd, and Hamed Mulid. The sujierior conduct and character of these persons as compared with that of Beruk, his son and escort, was greatly in favour of the Taghakanths. But now let me give you a little pleasing information. At the eleventh hour nothing could exceed the attention and as-urances of the Skeikh and Hiiji Abib. The former in giving me into the hands of the Taghakdnths, said, 'He placed me in their hands as his own flesh and blood ; if any thing happened to me, it would happen to him ; I had done much for them. He counted upon mak- ing a name through me. I had waited long ; and that now there was to be no delay, but to go on at once to the journey's end, and that Moham- med El Abd was to return post haste with a letter, informing them of my safe arrival.' I heard from his conversation here last night, that if he gets back to Wad Nun in three months, Beruk is to give him one hun- dred mithkals of gold. Haji Abib wrote all the letters, and helped to pack up, and was much more nervous than I should be if I were going to the scaffold. I found that Abu had packed up my Suilham ; but as it was said that I must have one, althougli I had three Haiks, Haji Abib took off his own, which he compelled me to accept. I told him I should write to you to get him another, which I pray you will have the goodness to do. " I shall not say one word about our journey to Tinzerat, which were 160 NOTES TAKEN DURING two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge to Sheikh Hammo, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheikh Beriik's horse was sent back, and I was mounted on one of Hammo's, with a long gun placed in my hand, and haiked up to the mouth. We were ofl'at eight a. m. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party, including the Tagha- kiinths and self thirty-six, who were whooping, firing and galloping, to frighten the Havamis, the road being very dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of this place. Hammo, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On entering it accompanied by Sheikh Bel Aide, and another person, he rode up towards myself and fired oft' his gun at my horse's feet. The w hole place w as out under arms. 1 rode up between two files of men w ith their arms ; and on entering the gate lead- ing to his house, two men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired, which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops ; and then turning to me said, ' Well, Christian, is tiiis the proper way to receive and treat you ? ' I was then taken to his house, where with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and told me T was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk, and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zciu here, who had been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad, as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are said to amount to near fiv(> Imnched men and three thousand camels, they cannot get on. /(in h^ft yestirday for Akka to bring his people here to accom])any me, if possible, as it is now settled that J am not to go to the tents at all, Ijitt nialic (brect for the Sahra,and proceed toTumbuktu without seeing even a tent or a single person. We have just finished a consultation, w hen it was determined to start on Thursday night. The TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 161 journey will be accomplished in a very short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from all appearances I fear there will be no kAfdah this year. All are in great alarm. Moiiammed El Abd has learned that people are on the look-oiit at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that I am coming for certain with the kalilah ; which is accordingly to be delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach me. Haji Abib will bring l)ack the horse and my gun, of whicii the latter is to be sent to England ; but unless you can do it easily, not till you hear from me at Tumbuktu. Mohammed El Abd says he wants to go to Suweirah, and shall carry my letter to you him- self and say, there is the letter from Yel Yayha : the Taghakanths have kept tiieir word ; God grant that he may. " Evening. The peoj)le have returned. One man was killed, and another shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday. " Wednesday, 16. — The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed £1 Abd says, that if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakanths live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our present arrange- ments we shall save nearly six days, as the tents are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any certain answers or infor- mation to be depended upon. Changes take place every hour not only in places, but in persons ; and the man, who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any thing, is at another a thief and haramir " P. M. — The son of the Marabout Sheikh has arrived with a party of horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond. Y 162 NOTES TAKEN DURING " You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had, demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district of Wad Nun, where I can assure Sheikh Beruk is scouted and laughed at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing : that he is speculating with the property of others ; his whole tribe, excepting Haji Abib, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever saw. Every step we liave taken from his cursed place, we have found the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of which there is not a particle in the family of Beruk. If I mistake not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew. " Night. — All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morn- ing at the break of day. I believe the katilah will be allowed to proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only t\\o pi'rsons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all the talk at Wad Nun, I shall go in my original party of five, including Abu and myself I fear there is much suffering before us, as no prepa- ration has been made for any kind of food by the Taghakanths. Beruk j)iit up for us one canter of rice, and one of barley ; but EI Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no milk camels here ; and as we do not go to the tents, 1 fear I shall be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the first my route was the most diflicult and dangerous ; but it has far exceeded my expectations." In a postscript Mr. D. adds — " All are in l)ustle and all in fear, but Abu and myself;" and yet in a letter dated >\ ad Ndn, October 71 h ]Hfi(i, he says — " My mind is made up to the certainty tliat I sliall leave my bones in Sudan." Still with ail these misgivings his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. " Before this reaches you," lie TRAVELS IN AFRICA. JG3 says, " I shall be wending my way over Africa's burning- sands to a sort of fame, or the sad 'bourne from which no traveller returns;' if to the former, truly happy shall I be to renew your valued friendship ; but if to the latter, thinii sometimes of the poor lost wanderer." The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine D'Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he slionld give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudan, that he had been ten years preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an English pass- port, as he intended to travel a VAnglaisc, for the French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence of their forcible occupation of the country. " He was," says Mr. D. " a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor, to travel ew Prince with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty's Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity, will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman ! If I do Fll No, I never swear. Abu shall make kuskasu of me first." To the preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.'s mind, may be added the following. " Your Excellency's writ- ing and mine remind me of the old proverb — 'Tel Padron, tel Secre- toire.' I will, however, l)ack yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write hard scratches. I know it — I have only steel pens." So too when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he remarks that " the druggist ought to present it to the Society of Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for the assertion." Mr. I)., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as tiie punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wad Draha, he says,—" I am in better healtli than ever, and never was in better condition. The Sheikli backs me to win. I worked harder Y 2 164 NOTES TAKEN DURING than any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some, slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest to manage. 1 cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life ; heard their discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a history of tlie migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare tlie Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time made up my mind that happiness is ideal ; that to too many of us it is ' the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.' If any people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to gain them Paradise ; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do with the care of souls or soles ; but I really feel that any attempt to alter the course of these people's lives might be fairly met with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well. Pol me occidistis, amici, Non servastis, ait; cui sic extorta voluptas Et dcmptus per vim nienti gratissimus error." In allusiun to the few wants of the Arab Mr. 1). says in a loose memorandum, " His camels not only carry his wives, children, and tent, but feed them; his cows enable iiim to sell two or tliree jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes; the wool from them gives him from four to six haicks and a carpet ; iiis barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.' TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 165 Various detached Notes at the end of 31r. Davidson s Journal.* Tlie iVFazzabibs' dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, /'. c. dissenters. Tiiey refuse to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art of making gun- ])o\vder; they collect tiie earth and mortar of mined towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it accpiires consistency : with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur, and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit for use. In D jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead. The word sibkah is used for salt plots (pits), of which there are many. In the \\'ady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, i.e. swift dromedaries, are bred. In Ghadames there are many ulemmas and talebs, i.e. writers. In Matemater, Coptic is said to be the language in use. In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have the pecidiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves ; but they do not inter- marry : they are scribes and merchants, but are never raised to the office of kdid or imaum : they do not observe Friday as the Sabbath. Tlie great drink here is made from the date. In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed : they are, however, the property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of substi- tute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct thp Moors. They have all a master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The prin- cipal trade is in grain and oil : the masters are Bebers, all of whom • The spellings of several proper names in these Notes are very doubtfuL 166 NOTES TAKEN DURING ride mules. Every douar has its sheikh and kaid, who are Moors, and possessing- each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other, but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi ; and they make a pil- grimage to the tombs, distant two and three days' journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh. The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in pronun- ciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary : they extend over an immense space. They have a settlement at AVadan, another at Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina : they are to be found likewise in Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the same people. During my \isit there, 1 had an opportunity at getting at their language, of wliich tli(TO are several dialects, between the northern and southern range of tlie Atlas. That of Marocco and the north is very different from that of the Sahara and Sudan, which is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and reading the latter, wliere the diacritical points are often transposed or omitted. The washing of the dead is pcuformod thus : a large sheet is thrown over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin, water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the body ; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back, and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the liody to prevent the earth from touc-hing it. Ablutions are [)erformed with sand in the desert, and souutimcs even in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand l);ilh has given ri.se to the saying, that "sand is useless where water is plentiful." TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 167 Tlie Fasli-hook wliich produces the Ammoniacum does not extenti in any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweirrah, the Derjnuise, or Euphorbium occupying its place. Tiie urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm, is used as a |)urgative, and to increase the apj)ctite. Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded ; al- though the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and (piick in its movements. I saw one June 8th. The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nun, and is called the serpent's enemy. One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was seen at Wad Nun : it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed between the bull and mare. The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are diseases not known at Wad Nun. The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the rivers of Sudan. The effect produced by this on the system is very curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxi- cates the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught. There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Maleh or D jero Maleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they come out of the water about four p.m., and are easily taken. Uarquey, the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a large dray-horse. 168 NOTES TAKEN DURING red with white stripes and two horns turning back, called the Daramah, or Sukotelly : they go in large herds, and are very good eating. There are also elephants, called m'hoor-do, out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten ; it is hunted chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species, but much larger : others called Song are like small red heifers; but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called ^Nlinna, are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns ; they are, however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes, called Siggi, are found here together with musk- rats, &c. Of birds there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites will take the meat out of the people's hands. The direction of the Letter to Hamed Libbi't. Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and lank : — the Sultan Hamed Libbu, the lord of the city Tumbuktu, renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort iiim. Amen. [The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding H.M.S. Scorpion, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and presents to xMr. Davidson : but owing to the very rough weather, and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were unable to land on the coast near Wad Nun. It is inserted here, as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of tin; country wliich Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.] " Royal Geographical Society of London, •' Sir : I llh November 1B37. " I am directed by Sir John Barrow, as President of the Geographical TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 169 Society, to call your attention to our want of information relating to the lower part of Siis, in the empire of Marocco ; especially with regard to the rivers Wad Nun, Wad Soleiman, or Asaka, Wad Mesah, &c. ; as your visit to Wad i\uu, in order to communicate with Mr. Davidson, may enable you to obtain some knowledge of tiiem, I take the liberty of sending you the following questions and suggestions, which may be found useful in collecting geographical information : " I have also the pleasure to enclose to you our latest map of Marocco, an account of Lieut. Arlett's recent survey of that coast, and an extract from Mr. Davidson's letter from Wad Nun — if you read over these papers, it will enable you the better to judge of wliat we want: " 1. In sailing down the coast of Marocco, should you be near enough to distinguish the various small towns on the coast, notice especially those between Cape Blanco (north) and Cape Cantin, as the ruined town of Walidiyah is said there to exist in about 33° or 33° UV N. lat. — describe the situation of the towns, and if there be any appearance of an opening to a bay three miles in diameter said to exist — the opening, if any, must be very small. " 2. Four miles southward of Cape Glr, the Wad Sus falls into the sea ; from fifteen to twenty miles further south another stream flows to the sea ; describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name — Is it Wad Mesah ? " 3. About twenty miles further south another stream falls into the sea ; also describe its appearance, and endeavour to obtain its name. " 4. In lat. 29° S., a river, said to be called Wad-e-sta, falls into the Atlantic ; describe its appearance, and ascertain its name. " 5. A few miles south of Cape Nun, a large river has its outlet ; what is its name .'—Is it Wad Nun, Wad Soleiman, Wad Asaka or Wad Akassa, or Wad el Aksa, or none of them ? " 6. The same difficulty as to name, applies to the river about twenty- five miles south of the last- mentioned ? " 7. Does any river, called Wad Dafah, fall into the sea? according to our maps it loses itself in tiie interior. " 8. The town of \\ ad Nun will probably be found at about forty z 170 NOTES TAKEN DURING miles from the sea ; should you ascend to it in your boats, pay great attention to the windings of the river, its breadth, height of banks, rate of current, and depth of water, especially on the bar. " 9. Determine, if possible, the lat. and long, of the place, its height above the sea ; describe its position, estimate its population, &c. " 10. Does it stand on the banks of a river? — if so, what is its name — where does it flow from — is it said to be dry in the summer season — and is it at other times navigable for boats? "11. Take the bearings, and estimate the distance of all mountain- peaks in sight from the town ; and give the general direction of the range, or ranges, of Atlas seen from it. " 12. Ascertain how many days' journey from Wad Niin (town) to Akkah, to Sok-Assah, to Talent, and to 'Agadir; and, if possible, obtain itineraries from natives. " 13. In sailing down the coast, note all the snowy peaks seen of the Atlas range, which must be in sight from Cape Cantin southward, and give their bearings. As from the latter Cape, till you reach the parallel of Mogad6r, there is no object in keeping close in shore, it would be better to run down at such an offing as w ill enable you to see the distant peaks, which otherwise the high land of the coast may conceal. " 14. From a little experience among the Moors, 1 may venture to suggest that firmness, united with conciliatory manners, will soon make them your friends. A very trifling present of gimpowder, snuff or tea, but esj)ecially of the former, will obtain you all you want. It must be given with judgment, not too lavishly, nor before many persons. With respect to astronomical observations, if you jKMsuade them that you are only regulating your watch, and at the same time offer to correct theirs, they will not interrupt you. AVhether their watches keep time nr not, is of no importance. " l.j. By all means take with you a chronometer, an artificial horizon, a sextant or circle, a prismatic compass for taking bearings, and a mountain barometer, and direct that a register of the barometer, left on hoard, be kepi wliile you are up the country. " 10. It will be very advisable to take with you your Assistant-Sur- TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 171 geon, if he can be spared, as medical advice, and a little medicine go further with the Moors than any other knowledge — besides he may also have leisure to pay some attention to tlie natural history of the country ; or at least to collect a few plants and some geological specimens : if you can also take with you a draughtsman it will be very desirable. "17. In conclusion, all geographical information will be valuable; note it immediately in a journal as fully as possible; and be so good as to preserve your orightal notes and observations, and mark hear-say information with the name of the informant. I need hardly add it is absolutely necessary that you should have a good interpreter, who will probably be procured at Mogad6r (or according to your instructions from the Admiralty); and you must be provided with a few trifling presents as beforementioned, gunpowder, snuff", tea, gaudily printed cotton liand kerchiefs, which are valued in tlie order I have placed them. " Begging you to excuse the freedom with which I have offered these suggestions, and heartily wishing you success, " I have the honour to be, &c. " To Lieut. Holland, H.M.S. Scorpiott." " John Washington." " Royal Geographical Society of London, " Sir : 2mh October 1836. " I have the pleasure to acknowledge the receipt of your letter, dated Wad iVun the 22d May; and am much more gratified to hear tiiat you have arrived thus far without any serious accident, and sincerely hope it may be an earnest of future success. As an opportunity offers of send- ing you a letter direct, and as it may possibly still find you at Wad N6n, I write to say that any details relating to the topography of your imme- diate neighbourhood will be very acceptable to the Geographical Society, as we know nothing of it, and but little of the country you have lately traversed, between Mogador and Wad Nun. "To save you trouble I have drawn up a few questions, request- ing you, when you do not reply to them from personal knowledge, to state on what authority you give the answer, and whether you think it may be relied on or not. z 2 172 NOTES TAKEN DURING " 1. Does a river called Wad Dar'ah pass through the town ofWad Nun, and does it flow to the sea? " 2. Do you know ^^'ad Tegrewelt, and where is its outlet ? " 3. Is ^^ ad-el Gas [?] the same as Wad M^sah, and where is its embouchure ? " 4. Is the town of M^sah on its banks, and how far from the coast ? " 5. How far south of the river Siis does the river M6sah flow into the sea? " 6. Does a river Assa exist? if so, where is its outlet? "7. How far is M6sah from 'Agulu ? " 8. How far is the town of Tarudant from the mouth of the river Sus ? or from Santa Cruz? " 9. Our latest maps represent a branch of the river Sus, named Ras-el-Wad, rising thirty-five miles E. S. E. of Tarudant, running fifty miles to the S. W. circling round Mount Ehilah, then flowing north fifty miles to join the river Sus, can you ascertain if this is correct? " 10. How far is Tedsi from Tarddant ? "11. Riley mentions Wad-e-Sta, between Istukah and Santa Cruz, does it exist, and where ? "12. Are the towns of Istukah and Talent on the river Assah or M6sah, and if so, how far from M6sah or from each other ? " 13. Does a place called Gueder or Port Hillsborough exist, or is it the river Reguela of Arlett's chart ? " 14. Is the river Nun also called the river Akasa ? " 15. Is the river Suleiman, or tlie river innnediately to the southward, of Cape Niin, of any extent and where is its source? Is any town situated on it? " IG. Is there any large town between Istukah and Niin ? " 17. Can you give a tolerable estimate of the population of any of the places above-mentioned ? " 19. You state Adiar to be fifty miles south of the position assigned iti our maps. Is not Adrar the name of a range of mountains, not of a town ? TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 173 " Pray excuse these detailed questions, but seeing the confusion in our maps, and knowing your zeal in the cause of geography, I venture to trouble you with them; let me recommend you, if possible to send duplicates of your information at every opportunity, for while travelling, in a wild and uncivilized country especially, it is diflicult to ensure the safety of your papers. " Mr. Renouard is well, and thanks Abu Bekr for his remembrances: he desires his kind regards to you and to him. " Accept, dear Sir, our best and warmest wishes for your success; yet let me entreat you not to endanger unnecessarily your life even with the hope of accomplishing your journey to Tumbuktu ; for however desirable it may be to reach that place, it is not worth risking life to obtain it. *' I am, very faithfully yours, " (Signed) John Washington. " John Davidson, Esq., Wad Nun." [The following letter was addressed to Mr. Vice-Consul Willshire at Mogador, but forwarded by that gentleman to Mr. Davidson, who endorsed upon it the annexed answers to the questions contained in it.] " United Service Club, Charles Street, St. James's, " Dear Sir: London, 1st March 1836. " From your kindness and civility towards my friend, Lieut. Arlett, who visited Mogad6r, in command of H. M. S. Etna, and your readiness to give him all the information in your power, I feel no hesitation, although an entire stranger, in writing to you, to beg more information relating to the southern part of the empire of Marocco ; as, in conse- quence of Arlett's late survey having cut off a large slice from our maps between Santa Cruz and Cape Nun, several towns, such as Istukah, Nun, &c. must be wrongly placed ; if you can supply any notes on the subject, I shall feel much obliged to you, and shall gladly make use of them to correct our maps. 174 NOTES TAKEN DURING . " J; may mention that I feel the more interested in this country, having accompanied Mr. Drummond Hay in his visit to the city of Marocco, in 1 830, and thus having had the opportunity of correcting the map of the more northern parts of the empire. " 1 have the pleasure to enclose for your acceptance, the best map hitherto published of Marocco, that of Count Graberg af Hemso, and to beg you will point out all the errors that you may be enabled to detect. In order to save you some trouble, I have drawn up a few questions, begging you, when you do not give the answer from personal knowledge, to state on what authority it is given, and whether you think it may be relied on. " 1. How far south of the river Sus does the river of Mesah flow into the sea ; and is it known by that name to the natives, or by what? " 2. How far from its mouth is the town of Mesah situated ? "3. Is it a place of any importance now, and what may be its popu- lation ? " 4. Does a river Assah exist? if so, where is its outlet ? or are Assah and Mesah the same river ? is either known by the name of Tesset ? " 5. How far is the town of Mesah from 'Agulu? " 6. How far is the city of Tiirudant from the mouth of the river Sus, or from Santa Cruz ? " 7. What is the name of the stream just south of Mogador? is it Wad al Ghored ? and is it a stream of any size or extent ? where is its source ? , " 8. The map represents a branch of the river Sus, named Ras-el- Wad, winding round Mount Elalah, and joining the Siis at Turudant ; does sucli a river exist, and is this any thing like its course? " 9. How far is Tedsi from Tarf'id.lnt? " 10. Riley mentions Wad-e-st^, between Istukah and Santa Cruz; is it rightly named, and where is its outlet ? "11. Are the towns of Istukah and Talent on the Assah or Me.sah ; and if so, how far from Mesah, or from each other? " 12. Does a place called (jueder, or Port Hillsborough, exist? or is it the Wad Reguela of Arlett'.s Chart? TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 175 " 13. Does a town called Wad Nun exist? or is it the name of a river, or of the country ? " 14. How far is the town of Nun from the mouth of the river Nun, or from Cape Niin ? and is it situated on the river Niin ? " 15. Has the river Nun any other name? either Akassa or Wad-el- aksa? " 16. Is the river Soleiman, or the river immediately to the southward of Cape Ni'm, of any e.xtent, and where is its source? is any town situ- ated on it ? " 17. Is there any town between Istukah and Nun ? how far is Ufaran from Talent ? " 18. Can you give a tolerable guess at the population of any of the towns mentioned ? and especially of Mogad6r, Santa Cruz, &c., and the number of Jews they contain ? "Any other geographical information, towards correcting our maps will be thankfully received. May I beg you to take as early an oppor- tunity as you conveniently can to answer these questions, and with every apology for the trouble I am giving " Believe me, my dear Sir, faithfully yours, (Signed) " John Washington." [The following replies were written by Mr. Davidson.] " Question 1. About fifty-four miles — it is known by the name of Wad Mesah, and also called Wholgrass [?] " 2. The town is Assah, distant about two miles — a few scattered houses on each side to within half a mile of the sea. " 3. Of no importance ; famed only for having near it a Tuesday market, to which many people resort — its population may be one hundred persons. " 4. Assah is the name of the district through which the river Mesah flows : neither is known by the name of Tesset. "5. From 'Agulu fifteen miles; large town with a population of about six hundred. "6. Equidistant; about thirty miles from each; and visible from both. 176 NOTES TAKEN DURING " 8. The Ras el Wad comes directly from the mountains, and passes by Tarudant where it takes the name of Sus. "9. Tedsi is about twenty miles E. N. E. of Tarudant. " 10. I can learn nothing of Wad-e-Sta. "11. There is no town called Stuka, it is a district; none that I can find, calledTalent, there is Tilin; theMesah flows throughStuka, in which district are twenty settlements, or towns if you like, some of them are large; they are known in general by the name of tlie Sheikhs who in- habit them, I stopped at Sheikh Hamed's ; Tilin was distant from this spot a day's journey in the mountains towards the source of the river. " 12. This place is called Isgueder but not known by the name of Port Hillsborough ; the people called the small river here Edaoguma ; on this stream are twenty-five mills. " 13. Wad Nun is a large district having many clusters of habitations ; tiie town where the Sheikh resides is of a good size; has a Millah and a good market ; it stands on the river (such as it is), distant twenty-two miles from the sea. " 1-5. Wad el Aisa comes from the mountains above Sok Aisa, and as it passes through the district of Wad Nun, it takes the name of Assaka. " It). I have not yet been beyond two miles south of Wad Nun. "17. There are at least twenty viUages between Stuka and Wad Nun. If by Talent, Tissert is meant. Oferen is distant six miles. " 18. Population of Agadir forty -seven Mohammedans; Jews thirteen heads of families, and with their children amount to sixty-two. At Fonte, which is the port, about two hundred — no Jews." Extracts from Mu. Davidson's Letters. The fonowing extracts are given witii the view of explaning some allu- sions made in the Journal. In a letter to Mr. G. D d, Mr. Davidson says, " after endea- vouring to enter Africa in forma pauperis, I tried anotlier tatk, and got up a staff of six officers in field-day regimentals, and embarking TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 177 in ;i brig- of war the ' .lassten,' landed at Tangier under a salute of eleven guns. Tliis stamped me at once as a great man ; and though I have been somewhat accustomed to such kind of greatness, J find it not very pleasant liere, for I have Messud, my Jewish interj)reter, and l^eu Ilayed, my Moorish interpreter, and I can hardly stir with- out both being on the alert, the one watching my mouth, the other my eye." Speaking of the feelings of the natives towards a foreigner he says, " the people here are worse than any I have yet seen; they hate me because I am a Christian, although they are ready to praise me for my kindness to Abu, who is half-anxious and half afraid to proceed. His health is bad and spirits worse, and his powers quite unequal to what we shall have to go through. We certainly run some risk : I am very careful what he eats, and much fear that the threats thrown out against his getting back will prove too true. As for myself, I pass the time in riding with the Taurick, chatting with the Jews, and taking snuff with the Moors." Speaking of the Mona he observes, " I had to pay for a sheep, fowls, eggs, bread, and preserves, but being neither butcher, poulterer, baker or confectioner, the things were of little use to me. They call the present 31ona, which may mean Manna; and as these vaga- bonds call themselves the image of God upon earth, they think it enough if they give only food." In allusion to the Lob el Barool he says, "It is literally 'the game of smoke,' and played by soldiers on horseback, who fire off their guns with only blank cartridges ; but sometimes they \)v\i in a ball, which is sure to strike, of course by mere accident, a Christian." With regard to the ruins near the outset, Mr. I), seems to think they are Druidical, and he compares them with the remains of Stone- henge in Wiltshire. Speaking of his medical life in Afric, he says, "all whom I cure come to be paid for allowing me to improve myself in my profession, and demand a piece of coin for every dose they have been taking ; while 2 A 178 NOTES TAKEN DURING those I fail to cure abuse me for want of skill, and threaten to shorten my life for not prolonging theirs." The allusion to the electrical horse will be best explained by the following- letter, written by Mr. D. to Professor Faraday, and Ijy whom it was read at the Royal Institution. " The great interest you take in all matters relating to electricity, and the great advantages which have resulted from your researches in that science, induce me to call your attention to a circumstance, perhaps not new to you, but which has recently fallen under my own observation. I received from the Sultan of IVIarocco the present of a horse of a pecu- liar breed, and as every person in this country is his own groom, I observed a peculiar tingling sensation in the hand on dressing the neck of the animal; this I attributed at first to the dirt and vermin with which the poor animals here are infested, and then thought no more of it. On leaving Marocco I proceeded towards the Atlas ; and whenever I had occasion to consult my compass 1 found it extremely difficult, nay, impossible to keep it steady. I supposed this was owing to my sword and pistol ; but as I woi-e these, when walking, witliout observing the same deflection, 1 dismounted, and holding the compass, I still perceived the same eflect as long as I held it near the horse's head ; but w lien I left the animal, and put the instrument on the ground, the needle settled to its point. After a little reflection, the effect produced on my hand by rubbing the horse's neck on the near side occurred to me ; when repeating the experiment, I could perceive several distinct intimations of the same tingling sensation. \\ C pro- ceeded to our lialt; and as soon as the party had sat down to tlieir evening meal, 1 began to examine into the matter more closely. It was now dusk ; on passing my hand down the neck, not only could 1 hear distinctly the electrical detonation, but j)erceive a quantity of sparks; both were such as would be produced by rubbing the large j)late macliineat the Royal Institution. Thinking the eflect miglit slil! Iiave 1j< en produced l)y animalcuhe, and intending to visit tiie foUowing day the ruins of Trassermant, I ordered the horse to be well washed TRAVELS IN AFRICA. 179 in the morning-. On pouring water over his neck, I found a peculiar spasmodic action produced, which did not take place when it was poured upon any other part of the body, not even on the ofF-side of the neck, on which fell the mane. Ascending the lower part of the moun- tain chain toward the snow, the effect was scarcely visible; but on returning to the valley, it was considerably increased, and especially after the animal had been well washed and dried. Approaching the sea, it became more powerful, and at Mogad6r I got several persons to witness the phenomenon. I was here told by the kaid, who had accom- panied me from Marocco, to take great care of the animal ; that there were very few of them in the country, and that the Sultan seldom gave them away ; that it was not only a horse of high blood but of fire, and it would never tire. It has done a great deal of hard work, and fully bears out the cliaracter given of him. I have moreover observed, on touching him with the spur, or when he is excited by the firing of a gun, or the sight of other horses, that a violent action is produced on this side of the neck. Upon entering the desert, the effect nearly disappeared, and at the same time a great portion of his courage, although he continued to do his work well. The diflTerence may, how- ever, be owing to the great change from an abundant to a spare diet, and to his sympathising with his master by shewing more bone than flesh, as our meals are reduced to one a-day. Can the coloin- have any thing to do with it ? He is golden dun, with a black mane and tail. 1 have seen but three of the same hue, two in the stables of the Sultan, and the third in the possession of the Sheikh ofStuka ; but I could not obtain permission to examine them. I am very anxious to send him to England ; but I fear it will be impossible, as the whole of the persons in power in Marocco are so incensed against me for having eluded their vigilance, and succeeded in getting out of the empire upon the direct track of the gold district, that I am told that no favour would now be granted, and that if I come back, I shall rue what I have done in passing to this place. The road is now open to me : my intention is not to follow the caravan route, but to proceed with a small escort and 2 A 2 180 NOTES. a few camels by the road the couriers take, and thus obtain a new line and bearing to establish the position of Tumbuktu. I hail made a collection for the Royal Institution of some mineralogical and fossil specimens ; amongst which were many of copper, antimony and lead, and what they here call brass (iilias asfer). The last was obtained, but with difficulty, for Professor Berzelius, at the request of the consul- general at Tangiers. But having to lighten my baggage, when passing through Lower Suse, the mule-load of stones had to be sent away, with a promise that they should be forwarded to Mogad6r. They were addressed to yourself, with a request to send the duplicates to the professor at Stockholm. I fear much they will never reach you, as a Berber told me the people will be sure to think they contain gold, and they will all be sent to the furnace." It appears, however, by a letter to Mr. Drummond Hay, that Sheikh All sul)sequently told Mr. Davidson, that finding they were only stones, he, the Sheikh, had thrown them away, but had kept tlie baskets. In allusion to the project of making Agadeer the port for sending goods into the interior of Africa, he says, that the people there asserted that the story circulated of the insecure state of property in that country was unfouiKh'd ; that such reports were spread by the people of Mogador, who feared that foreigners would come and settle there, if it was thought that trade could be carried on with Suse better by that route than the old one. It was this very dread of the trade being- directed into a new channel, that seems to have thrown such impedi- ments in the way of Mr. D.'s journey to TumbuktCi. APPENDIX [From the Jouuxal of the Royal Geograi'hical Society of London, vol. vii., p. 144—172.] Extracts from the Correspondence of the late Mr. Davidson, during his residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further progress in the Desert. * The much-lamented close of Mi-. Davidson's life, an event which every member of the Geographical Society will unite in deploring, has made it the melancholy duty of that body to preserve some record of his latest exertions in pursuit of geographical knowledge. For that purpose his various friends and correspondents were requested to place in the hands of the Secretary such of his letters as contained any observations of moment ; to this request they readily acceded, and the acknowledgments of the Society are more particularly due to his Royal Highness the Duke of Sussex, to whose gracious encouragement Mr. Davidson was mainly indebted for his favourable reception in Morocco, and who, with his wonted liberality, has allowed the transcription of the most interesting communications received from that enterprising traveller. To the ex- tracts from Mr. Davidson's own letters, are added such accoimts as have been at different times forwarded respecting his further progress and the fatal determination of his jour- ney, the particulars of which are still involved in some doubt, though concerning the main point, the loss of his valuable life, there is unhappily no place for hope. It would have been highly gratifying had it been possible to introduce these extracts to the reader, by a detailed memoir of Mr. Davidson's extensive travels in every quarter of the globe ; but the materials furnished by such various and remote journeys could not have been collected and arranged in the short period which has elapsed since the sad intelligence of his end has been authenticated. Those journeys were also performed before their author was in correspondence with this Society, and for that reason are not necessarily connected with its Journal. His instructive lecture on the site of Jerusalem and the movements of the investing armies, the manuscript of which, had it received * For the notes at the foot of the page, the Foreign Secretary is answeral>le. 182 APPENDIX. Its author's last corrections, would have formed a suitable counterpart to his description of a mummy which he opened and described after his return from Egypt, might have been inserted in this collection, liad it not been too closely confined to topography and history to be properly placed among geographical disquisitions. In the summer of 1835, Mr. Davidson, whose ardour was not checked by the many hazards and difficulties he had already experienced, formed the adventurous project of a jouraev into the Jieart of Africa, by what may be termed the most direct route. He therefore embarked in September, 1 835, for Gibraltar, on his way to Morocco, from which country he hoped to reach Tumbuktu by the route of Tafilelt, the road by which Rene Caille travelled from that city northwards. To the almost insurmountable ob- stacles which would meet him at every step, Mr. Davidson was no stranger. His per- sonal courage, however, his power of enduring fatigue and change of climate, readiness at finding expedients to obviate difficulties, and, above all, his peculiar urbanity, which could not fail to prepossess even strangers in his favour, gave his friends, and still more perhaps himself, a confidence which even those excellent qualifications could hardly jus- tify. To manv other accomplishments particularly valuable in such an undertaking he added a considerable knowledge of medicine, to which, indeed, he was in the main in- debted for the accomplishment of that part of his journey which he did execute ; and should his papers have escaped the notice of the savages who assassinated him, they may liereafter add another leaf to the laurels with which his brow is already graced. The only jjerson by whom Mr. Davidson was accompanied was a negro baptized in the West Indies by the appellation of Edward Donnelan, but better known in this country by his Muselman name of Abu Bekr, of whom some account has been given in this Journal.* lie is occasionally mentioned in tlie following letters by the name of Ahou, and should he not have sunk under the privations and fatigues of the desert, may possibly hereafter supply us with a more authentic account of his lamented employer's end than any which we have liitherto received. Mr. Davidson, as was before remarked, was well aware of the difficulties which awaited him, and at Gibraltai-, where he was detained nearly three months l)y the impossibility of clearing his way into tlie empire of Morocco, he met Mr. Hav, his Britannic Majesty's Consul- General in Barbary, who " seems to think" (he says in a letter to Dr. Lee, dated 13th Sei)tenibcr, 1835) " that we shall not be able to get on." His resolution was not so easily to be shaken ; he procoeiiod to Tangier,-|- and after waiting there a considerable time, liad at length tiie satisfaction of informing his brother, Mr. T. Davidson, on the 13tli December, tliat he had " tjiat morning received a most kind and flattering letter from the Sultan of Morocco, acconqianied by a few lines from • Vol. vi. p. 102, anil wliicli is rr-piinlcd at page 208 of this volume. + 'J'anj;ili. APPENDIX. 183 his minister," commanding liim to repair to the court, where he should experience nothing but what would be agreeable to him. This letter was accompanied by anotlier to "El" Arbi Essaidi, the k:ud of Tangier, directing him to provide everything for his safe conduct, and enclosing letters to all tlic governors by wliom lie liad to pass, that they should jjuy iiim respect, honour, and hospitality, inasmuch as he was travelling to benefit his fellow-creatures ; that the governor [al-kakl] should provide liim a guard of ten horsemen, commanded by a kuid [captain], wlio would enforce respect and ensure the due performance of the Sultan, their master's orders, whicli were that he should be treated with respect and consideration ; and that his Majesty enclosed for him, the governor [of Tanjah], money for the soldiers, and extra pay for the kaid, who were to act under his orders, and be guided by his discretion." " Such," he adds, " is the manner, after a delay of tiiree months, that I commence my arduous undertaking. I almost fear it is of too flattering a character, but must only use the more discretion." Antecedently to the receipt of these gracious orders from the Sultan, Mr. Davidson's residence at Tanjah had not been either agreeable or encouraging, as appears from the following extract from a letter to Dr. Lee, written (10th December) only three days before the last :— " My good and grateful companion [Abu Bekr] begs me to forward the few lines he has tliis morning written to you, and I wish I could send you any particulars as to our journey, or any new observations on the small portion of this country which we have seen. With the exception of two or three excursions, [at] the utmost under fifty miles, I have been confined to the walls of this place, waiting the Sultan's permission to proceed into the interior. The jealousy of this people exceeds all belief; their insults [are] innumerable, and I fear their determination is not to allow us to proceed. I have, however, by means of a few presents, bought the interest of the governor of this place and of Tetuan, and have been allowed to visit the places in the neighbourhood, but never without a soldier, from whose view I cannot proceed one step. I liave examined some of tlie neighbouiing mountains, most rich in iron, and specimens of jaspar and large masses of fossils. I have also passed some hours at the various douars,* or Arab encampments, have taken measurements of the ruins of the Outset,f or Pharaoh's Peg, as it is called ; some observations on which I hope shortly to send to England. I projwse next week, should I not receive my permission to proceed south, [to] go from hence to the Divarretts, amongst whose hills are some Bedouins. One large tribe, who used to escort the iiadjis from this to Mecca, still remain in tiie neigli- bourliood ; and I tliink some of them would for a good consideration take me to Mourzouk, from whence I could get ujwn the caravan-track for Soudan. I have had * Adwar, plural of dar, a circular tent. t Autdd plural of Watad, a peg or stake. Autad is corruptly pronounced U'tscd or U'ts^t. 184 APPENDIX, some conversation with the Sheik of Wadnoon* here, on his return from IMecca ; but he states he cannot take me tln-ough jMorocco, but will protect me, should I get to his dominions. The second rains have commenced with more than usual violence, and part of the country is impassable, which may account in some degree for [my] not receiving ray answer from IMorocco. I shall lose no time as soon as I receive this, nor shall I delay more than this month, and if this fail, I shall commence the year by a new route. My healtli, thank God, is very good; but I am sorry to say that Abou has had his sight much affected ; and I fear he is very unequal to the journey. I am taking every care of him by nursing him; and he is too, I grieve to say, an object of great suspicion." Secure under such a protection, Mr. Davidson lost no time in proceeding to the capital, and had the satisfaction of giving his brother an account of his progress in the following letter : — " The Garden of Mulai Moussa, Morocco, I8th Jan. 1836. "My dear Brother, — I fear from what has accidentally transpired, that it is the Emperor's intention to detain me here for some time. I have little cause for regret, tliis not being the season for me to cross the chain of Atlas, and any hurry on my part would only lead to suspicion, which might prove highly injurious to my projects. According to the Sultan's directions, I started from Tangier with my caid [kaid, or captain] and his ten soldiers, accompanied, [for] the first two hours, by thirty of the consular corps : the good wishes of all, I believe, I possess — Mr. John Hay, the Consul's son, and M. Crusentolphe, the Swedish Vice-Consul, accompanying me on to Rabatji"— <.>ight days' journey. I found much benefit, and derived great pleasure from the company of tliese gentlemen, tlie former of whom is a perfect master of Arabic. I have been also most fortunate in procuring an excellent dragoman, | who holds the office t)f interpreter to the British Consulate at Tctuan, and who has obtained three months' leave of absence, and is now my paid servant. He has twice attended the English medical men who have been sent for to attend the Sultan, with whom he is a great favourite. To Ilabat, the country presents little wortliy of observation; a fine fertile plain, rich valleys, with numerous .streams, and a succession of mountain ranges reaching as far as the eye will carry one. A little circumstance had nearly deprived me of the great source of safety, and the main stay on which I have to rely. Crossing an arm of tlie sea, at the Coubba of Mulai Ben Al)S(>lani,§ my mules got into a quicksand, and I • \\'u
  • n any of tlie tribes to escort me across the Sahara,f on the confines of which I have been for the last three months, with the prospect of a further detention to the commencement of September. The objection of the Sultan of Morocco to my entering the district of Suse is owing, as he stated, to the dangerous and unsettled state of the country. The difficulties and delays with which I Iiad to contend in passing through the numerous tribes now settled in tlie coinitries of Upper and Lower Suse, having no semblance of government and acknowledging no power, brougjit me to Wad N{m, too late for the spring Catilas,| and at a ])erio(l wiien tlie intense heat deterred even the Arabs from attempting the Sahara. Money, that alI-j)owurful engine, prevailed upon five of the best of tlie Dumnianees, who came wiih tlie van of the great Cafila from Soudan, to undertake with Sheiks Mohammed and Khiafee (who have each made the journey twenty times) to conduct mc it) safety to Timbuctoo, provided they were guaranteed a certain sum of money ; • Mr. Davidson's Letter, Journ. of Geogr. Soc, vol. vi. p. -ISO. f Salira is a largo level area, a plain, but applied peculiarly to the Great African Desert, t Kafilali, the Arab word answering to the Persian Kdr-ravan. APPENDIX. 195 but tliis only at the request of Sheik Beyrock, under wliose protection I have been for the last three months, and for whose permission to pass I have already paid very heavily. AH our arran<;emcnts were completed the 6th of June, the day appointed for starting. On tiie 4th of this moiitii the Great Cafila, which was twenty days behind its time, reached the encampment from which I was to have started : this brou. APPENDIX. 207 reached Swekeya,* where they rested to wait for tlie caravan to come up. On the third day, a party of fifteen, or more, of the tribe of El Ilarib arrived at the resting-place, and after the usual salutations, inquired of Mohammed El Abd who he was travelliuff with ? when he replied, a sliereef, who was going to GuaUitaf on business. After sonic little conversation, the head of the party of El Harib requested Mohammed El Abd to show him the watering-place, who, leaving his nnisket behind, and the rest of the Ilarib sitting down, accompanied him over the sand-hills, and when out of sidit, hearimr a report of a musket, Mohammed El Abd asked what had been done, when the Harib replied, his party had shot the Christian ; he complained bitterly, and said he would ratiier they had miu-dered bin). It is stated, that when Mohammed El Abd went away, one of the Harib pretended to examine his gun, and seized the opportunity to take aim, and shot Mr. Davidson, who was sitting on the ground a short distance from the jiarty, who immediately began to plunder and seize everything belonging to Mr. Davidson, allowing Mohannnetl El Abd to keep possession of what property belonged to him, obliging him first to make oath on the Koran. That the caravan was not met by the Harib, but has gone on to Timbuctoo, with which Abou, the companion of Mr. Davidson, travelled. " Sidi Ali added, that he had reason to believe that the first robbers gave intelligence of Mr. Davidson's route to the tribe of El Harib ; and that had not Mr. Davidson stopped, he would have reached Toudeyny before they could have overtaken him. " I am most sorry to observe, that I do not entertain a hope of receiving further or more correct particulars regarding the fate of Mr. Davidson than what I have com- municated. He was aware of the perils and dangers of the journey ; nothing could shake his determination, and his valuable life has paid the forfeit ; but his name will be handed down to posterity, as one of the many victims who have nobly fallen in the cause of science. " I am, &£C. (Signed) " AVm. Willshire." " E. W. A. Drummond Hay, Esq." • Before Shehkeya. f W'alatah of the Arabs, Ai-welaten (Ait Walatah ?) of Ibn Batutah. 208 APPENDIX. [Extracted from the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society of London : — pp. 100— 110. Vol. 6th.] " My name is Abu Bekr es siddik : my birth place is Tiimbut. I was educated ii> the town of Jenneh (Genneh), and fully instructed in reading and construing the Koran, — but in the interpretation of it by the help of commentaries. This was [done] in the city of Ghonali, where there are many learned men ['ulema], who are not natives of one place, but each of them, having quitted his own country, has come and settled there. The names of these sayyids who dwelt in the city of Ghdnah were as follows: — 'Abd-Allah ibn-al Hajj ; Mohammed Watarawi ; Mohammed al Mustafa ; Fatik, the white [man] [al abyad]; Sheikh 'Abdal-kadir, Sankari, from the land of Futah Jallo ; Ibrahim ibn Yiisuf, from the land of Futah Toro ; Ibrahim ibn Abi-1 Hasan, from Silla by descent, but born at Jarrah. These men used to meet together to hear the instructions of 'Abd- Allah ibn-al Hajji Mohammed Tafsir. " My father's name was Karah Musi, the Sherif,* Wetcrawi, Tassir, i.e. of the royal family.f His brothers were named Idris [Finoch], 'Abdu-r-rahman, Mahniud, and Abu Bekr. Their father's name was Mar,:j: al Kaid, O'mar ibn Shahidu-1-muluk [son of the King's witness or chief law officer] in tlie cities of Tumbut and Jenneh. He § was also called Ibn Abu Ibrahim (may his grave be visited !) was of this country. He was their father's first-born, and for that reason my name was called by the name of his brother Bekr. "After their father's death, there was a dissention between them and their families, and they separated, and went into different countries of the blacks.|| Idris went to Jarrah, and married a daughter of Mar, al-kaid Abu Bekr : her name was Ummuyu, • That ii<, " Descended from Mohammed." f " Kabilah," whicli properly signifies " tribe," but appears to be used ly Abii Bekr in the sense of " family." J The same as Emir. § That is, Aliii Belir's father, as appears from the sequel. II Al-9ljdan for Bil&d-as-sliddn — the countrius of tlie bhicks. APPENDIX. 209 —and lio dwelt there. 'Al,d,i-r-nihmdn travelled as far as Kong. He married tlu' ciaii^diter of Abii Tliadnia •All, lord of tiiat country, and dwelt there. The name of Ins wife was Sarah. Mahmud [travelled] to the city of Gh6Hah, and settled there. His wife's name was Zulu-a. Ahfi Bekr remained at Tumbut with tlie rest of the family.* He was not married at tlie time I left our country. " Before all these things happened my father used to travel about [continually.] He went into tlie lanil of Kashinaii and Bernu. There he married my mother, and then returned to Tumbut, to which place my mother followed him. It came to ]wss after this, that he remembered his brethren, repented on account of them, and wept bitterly. He then ordered his shaves to make ready for their departure with him [on a journey] to visit his brethren, [ami see] whether they were in [good] health or not. They, there- fore, obeyed their master's orders, and did so ; and went to the town of Jenneh, and from thence to Kong, and afterwards to Glwnah. There they abode and continued to serve then- master, collecting mucii gold for him there. In that country much gold is found m the plains, banks of rivers, rocks, and stones. They break the stones, and grind tliom, and reduce them to dust. This is then put into vessels, and washed with water till the gold is all collected under tlie water in the vessels, and the dust lies above it. They then pour out this mud upon the ground, and the gold remains in the vessels; and tiiey spread it out to dry. After that, they try it [on a touclistone], and make sucli things as they are able. For money or exchange they use shells, called al woda , [ gold and silver ; they also barter goods for goods, according to the measure of their value. " My father collected much gold in that country, and sent mucii to his father-in-law ; together with horses, asses, mules, and very valuable silk garments brought from Misr, with much wealth, as a present to him. He was my motlier's father ; his name was Al Haij Mohammed Tafsir, of the countries of Bernu and Kashinah, both inhabited by his family. "After this my father fell ill of a fever, and died in the city of Ghonah. He was buried tiiere, and his brothers went and made a great lamentation for him. At that time I was a child ; I knew nothing of this, but all these things were told me by some of our old men. They [my father's brothers] returned afterwards to their own dwell- ings, and Mahmud [alone] was left in the city of Ghonah. " My mother's name was Naghodi, tiwt is, in the Ilausa tongue; but her real name was Hafsah.; Her brothers were named 'Abd-aUah Tafsir, As-sifa, Ya'kub, Yahya, • Lit.Tally " «-itl> the other tribes." It probably means " with the other families of the same tribe." t That is, kariiis, or blackmoor's teeth, the Cyprica Moneta of Linna;us. _ I He means her name as a Mohammedan ; by her countrymen of Hausa she was called Nagh6di, a significant word in their lan^'rjage. 210 APPEND X. Sa'ad, Haniid Baba, Miimin, 'Othman, and 'Abdulken'm. Her sisters were Habibah, Fatimah, IMaryam, and jMainiunah. Their fotber was named Al Hajji IVIoliammed Tafsir, of the cities of Kasiiinah and Bernu. With respect to my mother, she was born in the city of Bernu. Her father, when he went to perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca], left her mother suckling her, on which account her name was called N;ighddi. " !My brotliers were named 'Omar, Salih, Sa'id, iNIusa Baba, Mumin, 'Abd-allah, Suleiman, Mustafa, Yusuf, and 'Abda-r-rahman ; but my mother's side, Salih only. ISIy sisters were 'A'yishah, Aminah, Selimah, Hawai [Eye], and Keltum ; but Aminah only on my mother's side. These men and these women issued, all of them, from the stock of the Sheikh 'Abdu-1-kadir, the sherif, and their family name is ]\Iur. "About five years after my father's death, I asked my instructor, who taught me the Koran, to go with me to the city of Glionah to visit my ftither's grave. He answered, ' Yea, Abu Bekr assiddik, if it please God, I will do that thou dost desire.' He then jirepared himself, and sought for pi-ovision for the road ; and he was followed by a large company of his disciples,* who bewailed him. We reached the city of Kong, and after- wards went on to tlie city of Ghonah ; and abode there a long time, reckoning that country as our own. We found protection -f in that country. Two years after our arrival in Ghonah, it entered into my teacher's heart to set out on the pilgrimage ; and while lie was making diligent enquiries from people who were going to perform the pilgrimage, some men told him of the business of Mohammed Keshin and his brother 'Omar, and Adam, of the land of Buntukhu. He then began to make inquiries of the people of Buntukkii, and tliey told him tliat Omar and Mohammed Keshin had departed, and had left Adam behind ; that he was not [now] going, but wished to go. My master made haste to seek for him in some of the towns, and left me in the city of Ghonah with my uncle Mahiniid. "At this time we heard the news of the business of Adingliarah, Sultan of Buntukku, after the Sultan of Bandah, or Inkoransa, who was named Afwa, liad been killed. They say Adinkarah wished to kill Kiijoh, governor of Kolongzhwi, a town belonging to the Sultan of Giionah. He wished to kill liiin, because of what happened between him and Dikki, his deputy [who liad been killed by Kujoh]. Adinkarah, therefore wished to jiut the latter to death by way of retaliation. Adinkarah, Sultan of Buntukku, sent to Kujoli, recjuiring him to pay a great deal of gold as a ransom for liis life,J and Kujoh sent what he required ; but he refused to accept it, and said to Kujoh's * Ghilmun means " young men," but it also means "slaves;" however, Abu lieUr seems to liave used it in the sense here given. "t" Sultiniin may mean ' a sulliin ;' but the power of living securely is probably what is here meant. J The price of blood, or tine for having taken away a man's life. APPENDIX. 211 messenger, 'Return to tliy master, and say to liim, "Unless tliou increase it l)y 200 times as mueli, I will not accept it ; but my sword shall take his head from off his neck; thou sbalt die a swift death." When tiiis messenger came to his master, and told him these words, Kujoh stretched out his hand, took back the gold, and kept it ; and likewi.se sent a messenger to tlie Sultan of Ghcinah to tell Iiim what had happened. " Then was Adinkarah very wroth ; and he ordered all his captains to gather all their soldiers together, and follow him to make war against Kujc)]!, and to kill him, that they might avenge the death of his servant Dikki. When the Sultan of Ghonah heard that Atlinkarah, Sultan to Buntukku, and his army, had come against them to kill them, he and all his host, together with Kujoh, rose up to meet them, and marched against them as far as the town of Boldh, choosing to attack them there ; and there they fought from mid-day till evening. Then they separated, and returned to their own places. Seven days afterwards, they again gathered themselves together, and engaged in battle, at the town of Amvighdh. It was a hard fought battle, and many souls perished on that day. Thus did Adinkarah overcome the King of Ghonah, and take the town of Amvighoh. The people of Ghonah fled, and some of them passed on [as far as] to the city of Kong. "On that day was I made a slave. They tore off my cloths, hound me with ropes, laid on me a heavy burden, and carried me to the town of Buntukku, and from thence to the town of Kumasi, the King of Ashantfs town. From thence through Askuma and Ajinmiakuh, in the land of Fanti, to Daglioh, near the salt sea. " There they sold me to the Christians, and I was bought by a certain captain of a ship of that town. He sent me to a boat, and delivered me to the j)eople of the ship. We continued on board ship, at sea, for three months, and then came on shore in the land of Jamaica. This was the beginning of my slavery until this day. I tasted the bitterness of slavery from them,* and its oppressiveness ; but praise be to God, under whose power are all things. He doth whatsoever he willeth ! No one can turn a.side that which he hath ordained, nor can any one withhold that which He hatli given ! As God Almighty himself hath said: — Nothing can befal us unless it be written for us (in his book) ! He is our master : in God, therefore, let all the faithful put their trust ! " The faith of our families is the faith of Islam. They circumcise the foreskin ; say the five prayers ; -f- fast every year in the month of Ramadan ; give alms as ordained in the law ; marry [only] four free women — a flftli is forbidden to them except she be • Tbieis — the people of Buntukku, Ashanti, and Fanti. This is mure distinctly expressed in another paper written by him. t That is — pray five times a day. 2 E 2 212 APPENDIX. their slave; they fight for the faitli of God; perform the pilgrimage [to Mecca] — i. e. such as are able so to do; eat the flesh of no beast but what tliey have slain for themselves; drink no wine — for whatever intoxicates is forbidden unto them ; they do not keep company with those whose faith is contrary to theirs, — such as worshippers of idols, men who swear falsely by the name of the Lord, who dishonour their j)arents, connnit murder or robbery, bear false witness, are covetous, proud, insolent, hypocrites, unclean in their discourse, or do any thing that is forbidden : they teach their children to read, and [instruct them in] the different parts of knowledge ; their minds are perfect and blameless according to the measure of their faith. "Verily I have erred and done wickedly, but I entreat God to guide my heart in the rio-ht path, for he knoweth what is in my heart, and whatever [can be pleaded] in my behalf. "Finished in the month of August, on the 29th day, in the year of the IVIessiah 1834 [1835]." From this narrative we collect that the writer of it was born at Tumbuktu, about the year 1794; that his grandfather 'Omar was an al-kaid, or magistrate, in that city and in Jenneh on the Jiliba or Niger, antl son of the king's witness, one of the principal law-officers of the state. Kong, where his uncle Abdu-r-rahman settled, is the place in the chain of mountains running parallel with the southern coast of Africa, the position of which was pointed out to Mungo Park. Its distance and bearing with respect to Jenneh, as far as Abu Bekr could give any notion of them, appear to agree nearly with the position assigned to it in Mr. J. Arrowsmith's Map of Africa. Ghonah, the residence of Mahmud, another of Abu Bekr's uncles, is about eight days'* journey cast or south-east of Kong. That place he believed to be mid-way between Jenneh and Ashanti. I3ut as tlie distance between Ghonah and Ashanti is twelve days' journey, that capital, the position of which is known, must be about twenty dnys' journey distant from Kong, and forty from Jenneh. .\b(ir Bekr was two montiison his way from Jenneh to Kong, but he thought the journey might be completed in fifteen days ; twenty days, there- fore, gives a fair mean, and confirms his supposition tliat Kong is just midway between the Jiliba and Ashanti. When only two years old, his f'atlier removed to Jenneh from Tumbuktu, or, as .\bu Bekr generally called it, Tumbuttu, or Tumbut;* of that place, therefore, he had no recollection. When only four years old he lost his father; and five years afterwards, when he was in the tenth year, he went to Glionah to visit his father's burial-])lace, .stopping one year at Kong on the way. On the suijjjosition, therefore, that he • Nearly resembling the Tombutto of Leo Africanus, (p. 612,) and clcaily an abbreviation of the Tungubutii of Dc Harros, (Asia, i. 220.) APPENDIX. 213 remained three years at Gh(5nali, lie was in iiis fourteenth year wluii lio (111 into the liands of the Ashantis, and was sent as a shive to the West Indies eitlier in 1807 or ISOS. Aiiivikoh, tiie phxce where he was seized by the people of Ikintiikkii, is fifteen or twenty miles to the soutii of Ghonah, and nine days' journey soutli of Kuiiiasi, the capital of Ashanti. Daghd, the place on the coast where he was put on board ship, is mentioned by Protten, the Danish missionary, as not far from AVinneba, one of the British forts. (Ailelimg, Mithrid., iii. 1«8.) From Daglici, o,- rather Cape Coast, Abu Bekr was carried to Jamaica, in wiiich island he passed about twenty-seven years of his life, first as the slave of a stone-mason named Donellan, subsetpiently on the estate of Mr. Haynes, and finally as the property of Mr. Anderson. Donellan was a very kind master, and when he told his slaves, about a year after Abi'i Bekr was purchased by him, that, as his mother wi.shed to see him, lie must return to Eiif^land, after selling his property in Jamaica, they all shed tears. Mr. Haynes, it appears, was not himself resident on the island ; and it was by his order that Abu Bekr, and the rest of the slaves on his estate, were baptised. In what manner they were prepared for baptism, it was diflicult to ascertain ; certain it is, as we learn from Dr. Madden, that the Mohammedans still retained their faith in the divine missi(m of IVIahoniet. It was at his baptism that Abii Bekr was named Fidwaril Donellan. Mr. Haynes's benevolent intentions cannot be doubted; but, as is too often the case where the planters are not residing on their property, his overseers and agents did not faithfully execute his orders, for " it was then," says Abu Bekr, in a paper written on his voyage home, " that I tasted all the bitterness of slavery." On the fa'th of September, 1823, Mr. Haynes's property was sold, and Abu Bekr was purchased by Mr. Anderson, who, having discovered his steadiness and honesty, employed him to take an account of all that came or was issued from his slave yard. He put down everything in negro Engli.di and in the Arabic character, (for he never had an opportunity of learning to read or write English,) and read it off' to the overseer in the evening. His cyphers they perhaps could read themselves, and therefore prove his sums ; but as he is well acquainted with the first rules of arithmetic, and very carefid, they were probably satisfied with the sum total that he gave in. After his liberation he continued in the same employment, but his condition could hardly be said to be improved, as his employer merely gave him his board, and appears to have withdrawn most of the former indulgences, without substituting wages in their stead. Nor, but for the kind and determined assistance of Capt. Oldrey, woidd lie have been suffered to come to this country, or indeed to leave Jamaica. Of the kindness of his present master he speaks in terms of the warmest gratitude; and Mr. Davidson, on his part, fully appreciates his merits. Should that enterpri.sing •214 APPENDIX. traveller be so fortunate as to reach Tumbuktii in safety, he will find — independently of the rank which, it seems, Abu Bekr's relations there hold — that so faithful, affec- tionate, and intelligent an interpreter is a treasure, the value of which cannot be too highly estimated. As the veracity of Abu Bekr's narrative has received an unexpected corroboration from the testimony of persons whom Mr. Davidson saw in Morocco, it may appear superfluous to enlarge upon the circumstances which justify our reliance on the truth of his statements ; but a brief mention of a few will perhaps be considered as an appro- priate conclusion to this paper. 'We may say, then, that his general good character, his years as indicated by liis face, and the cessation of the slave-trade in Marcli, 1808, are all so many evidences in favour of his statements respecting the age at which he was carried to the West Indies. His knowledge of the Arabic language is another very cogent proof of the truth of his statements. Though far from being able to write it with strict grammatical accuracy, or possessing the command of an abundant stock of words and phrases, his power of expressing himself in that copious and difiicult tongue, and the clearness and facility with which he writes its chai'acters, are truly surprising when his peculiar circumstances are taken into account. He could scarcely have completed his fifteenth year when taken away from Africa; was t«o years in the West Indies before he could obtain the use of pen, ink, and paper ; and, with the exception of two or three negroes, — one fortunately on board the slaver which carried him off, — had no means of reviving his remembrance of what he had learned, till a very late period. Some time before he left Jamaica, a benevolent stranger, who found that he could read Arabic, sent liim, from England, a copy of the New Testament in that language; and he had also read parts of the Old Testament with attention, as is evident from some texts quoted in the narrative written on his voyage from New York to England. On seeing the plates in jNIr. Bowdich's Travels, he immediately recognised a street in Kumasi, and the magical ceremonies of the Ashanti soothsayers; in ]Mr. Dupuis's book also the passage of the Basompra. He mentioned many of the naines of king's and chiefs, of whom those writers speak. At the British ]\Iuseum, instantly he recognized many old acquaintances; particularly the hippopotamus, who, lie said, always came out of the water at certain hours, and did a great deal of mischief. A\'ith the plants and seeds he .seemed equally well acquainted ; particularly the nittali, a species of acacia, and the j)alnis, — most of which he could never have seen in the West Indies. His acquaintance witii the Koran was no less remarkable. " Wiiat became of that wicked king, Enina.'" said he, to one of his friends from wiioni lie had already received some information. — " I never lieard of Frcina," said lii> friend.— '- ()li,yis," replied Abu Bekr, " you know APPENDIX. 215 liini,— lie is spoken of in the Bible; lie was King of Misr,— lie is mentioned in nuniy places in tiie Koran."—" Write down his name, then," returned his friend ; and he wrote '- Fir'aum," /. e. Pharaoh, very correctly spelt. It was too late to look for the Konin that night ; but the next morning, he in a few minutes found out almost all the places where Pharaoh is mentioned— scattered, as need hardly be said, all over the book. In the summer, he cliaunted the call to prayer— given by the Muedhdiiiiis from the minarets of the mosque— with the exact pronunciation, intonation, and rhythm, that is used from Cairo to Constantinople, and from Belgrade to Delili. The Koran he must have known almost by heart, as he declared he had never seen a copy of it from the time he left Ghonah till one was put into his hand by the writer of this paper. He was not old enough, he said, when captured, to enter on a course of logic and rhetoric, or to study the commentaries on the Koran ; but he knew the names of the most celebrated commentators. This is a plain proof of the superior civilization of the negroes in the interior over those near the coast ; and, however incredible at first sight, it is confirmed by Burckhardt's account of the Sliaikiyah Arabs in Meroe, and the well-written Arabic despatches from Bello's court, now in the records of the Foreign Office. In justice to Mr. E. Drummond Hay, the British Consul at Tangiers, to whom Mr. Davidson once felt disposed to attribute the difficulties thrown in his way and his pro- tracted stay at Gibraltar, it has been thought fit to put in the Appendix the letters following : — " Gibraltar, Sept. IG, 18.35. " My Dear Sir,— The advice I thought it my duty to give you was undoubtedly dictated by political reasons, which, although they may not in European States inter- fere with projects purely scientific, such as that of your gallant enterprize, appear to be of a widely different kind in Marocco. " I gave the advice after mature consideration, and with an ardent desire for the suc- cess of your undertaking, in which I take a peculiar interest. " I told you, I believe — but if not, I may now assure you — that I should probably save myself considerable trouble by taking immediately the step you wish, notwith- standing my advice and the reasons for it which I laid open to you in unreserved con- fidence, which I considered due to you as the bearer of a letter from his Majesty in furtherance of your object. I felt also the full weight of the responsibility I took upon myself in proposing some delay previous to your setting out upon the journey, and I 21G APPENDIX. was well aware how mucli I should expose myself to the obloquy of society in general, and to the injurious criticism in particular of the literary world, of which, although I can hardly presume to consider myself a member, there is not an individual more zealous than I am, and ever have been, in the cause of geographical enquiry. I felt that it is impossible, and would remain for a long time impossible, to exculpate myself, by pub- lisliing reasons that I am not at liberty to divulge, and which cannot, without going into long and difficult details, be rendered intelligible, except to the very few intimately acquainted with all the circumstances of my official position, the relations of our govern- ment with that of ]Marocco, and the peculiar character of tlie latter. " But since you tell me that you are still decided in your own views of the matter, not onl}' after duly considering the advice I gave, and the conversation you had witli his Excellency the Governor, but after what you heard from IMr. Judah Benoliel, the agent for the Sultan of ]\Iarocco ; and as you give nie the distinct assurance that you take all the responsibility of failure upon your own shoulders, I shall not lose a day in complying with your request for me to write to the Court of Marocco, for permission to present in person to the Sultan the royal letter, of which you are tiie bearer, when and where his Imperial Majesty sliall tliink fit to appoint " I leave Gibraltar, if the wind is fair, the day after to-morrow, and would go sooner if I could ; and before I have been twenty-four hours in Tangier, I hope to have a letter dispatched to the effect you suggest. " I beg to repeat, my dear sir, that you will be a welcome guest in my house at any time ; and wlicnever you do come, nothing shall be wanting on my part to promote your brave purpo.se, as far as my sense of wliat is politic may allow. " I may get an answer within a fortnight from the date of my letter to tlie court ; three weeks may, however, elapse before I receive a reply. On the very day it comes to hand I will, if you wish it, dispatch a boat express, in case there are no other means of coinmunicating tlie answer, which will be .sent to you in the original Arabic. " Witli renewed assurances of my admiration for your enterprize, and of cordial wishes for its success, " I remain, dear sir, your's faithfully, " E. D. Hay." " r.S.— Before I seal this letter I shall read it to his Excellency Sir Alexander Wood- ford and Mr. Judah Benoliel." APPENDIX. -17 To the preceding Mr. Davidson gave the reply following :— " Gibraltar, Sept. 16, 1835. " My Dear Sir,— Pray accept my best thanks for your letter, whicli I have just had the honor of receiving, and allow me to assure you that I sliall ever most gratefully appreciate the kindness witli which it teems. " I presume you are aware that a Mr. Hodgson, who leaves this place to-morrow, is on his way to Morocce on a mission from the United States. He has kindly offered, should I obtain the wislied-for permission, to wait a few days here ere he iirocccds. I think it right, and I hope you will not think it intrusive on my part to inform you, that Mr. Hodgson was three years at Constantinople, has visited Egypt, and published a biograpliical sketch of Mehemet Ali ; he is well versetl in Arabic, and has a great knowledge of tlie Mussulman character. Once again offering you my thanks for your kindness, and assuring you of my respect, believe me, " My dear sir, your truly obliged, "John Davidson." As a specimen of the style in which a correspondence is kept up by the Court of Morocco with strangers, the letters from and to Mr. Hay relating to Mr. Davidson's entrance into the Sultan s dominions, and his obtaining a personal interview witli the Prince, are herewith subjoined. " To the Noble Prince, exalted by the Lord, Mulai Abd Errachnan ben Hussein, whom God protect. "An English gentleman having arrived at Gibraltar within a few days past, as loearer of a letter, which he is charged to deliver to his Imperial Majesty, from the King my most gracious sovereign, may it please your Imperial Majesty to deign to cause me to be informed when and where it may be convenient for your Imperial Majesty to receive the bearer of the royal letter. " Peace— this 20th day of September, in the year of Christ 1835 (26th Joomad the l»t, 1251). " Edw. Drlmmond Hay, "H. B. IM.'s Agent and Consul- General in Morocco." 2f 218 APPENDIX. •' In the name of the merciful God, and there is no power or strength but in God the high and excellent. " To the faithful employed Drummond Hay, Consul for the English nation — this premised — " Your letter has reached our presence, exalted of God, regarding the gentleman who arrived at Gibraltar with a letter from the Pre-eminent of your nation ; in conse- quence whereof, if he please to deliver the letter to our employed, the kaid * Essedy, for the purpose of being forwarded to our presence, exalted of God, he may do so ; but if he wish to bear it himself, he is to proceed to Swerrah by sea, and thence he may come to our high presence, since the voyage by sea is more convenient than that by land, and the journey from the said port to our presence is sliort. " Peace— 11th Joomad the 2d, 1251 (4th October, 1835). • The word in the original cannot be decyphered. THE END. LONDON : Primed by J. L. 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