A Glimpse at 
 
 the Indian Mission Field 
 
 and Leper Asylums 
 

 
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 A GLIMPSE 
 
 INDIAN MISSION-FIELD 
 
 AND LEPER ASYLUMS 
 
 In 1886-87. 
 
 HARVEST .... PLENTEOUS. 
 
 LABOURERS .... FEW. 
 
 PRAY YE THEREFORE .... 
 
 LONDON: 
 JOHN F. SHAW AND CO., 
 
 48, PATERNOSTER ROW, E.G.
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 THIS account of a journey in India consists, for 
 the most part, of rough notes made in my 
 Journal from day to day ; and some of it has already 
 appeared in The Christian, The Missionary Review 
 of the World, Woman's Work, and The Christian 
 Leader. 
 
 It will be seen that great prominence has been 
 given to the Lepers of India and their miseries, as 
 it was for them the journey was undertaken ; and 
 it is in the hope of creating a greater interest in 
 them, and of benefiting them in the future, that this 
 book is now issued to the public. 
 
 At the same time the writer has endeavoured to 
 give an account of the "glimpse" that he caught 
 of the work of the different missions as he passed 
 on his way. He is very conscious of the imperfect 
 attempt he has made to give the impressions pro- 
 duced on his own mind, yet he ventures to hope 
 that, imperfect as it is, it may serve to awaken a
 
 ii PREFACE. 
 
 deeper interest in the great mission field of India, 
 and in those noble men and women who are spending 
 and being spent for Christ in that land. 
 
 If he has not mentioned all the societies, and 
 all the workers at the different places where he went, 
 it is only because of the very limited time he had at 
 his disposal, which prevented him from hearing of 
 and seeing their work. 
 
 In conclusion, he hopes that all mistakes that he 
 may have made, owing to his having had perhaps 
 an incomplete view in the hurry of travel, will be 
 
 forgiven him. 
 
 WELLESLEY C. BAILEY. 
 
 17, GLFNGYLE TERRACE, EDINBURGH. 
 June, 1888.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BOMBAY THE DHARMSALA 
 
 Page 
 
 5 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 POONA AND MADRAS THE GOVERNMENT LEPER HOSPITAL . 15 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 ARCONUM, ARCOT, VELLORE, AND BANGALORE . . 26 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 TRICHUR, PALLYPURAM ASYLUM, COCHIN, AND ALLEPPEY . 33 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 JOURNEY TO BOMBAY AND JABALPORE ALLAHABAD AND 
 
 PURULIA . . . ... 43 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 RANCHI AND LOHARDUGGA . . . 53 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 HAZARIBAGH, PACHAMBA, AND EBENEZER (SANTALISTAN) . 63 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 EBENEZER (SANTALISTAN), AND CALCUTTA ' . 73 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 CALCUTTA AND DARJEELING . . . . 84
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 Page 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 DARJEELING, BHAGULPORE, PATNA, BENARES, AND FAIZABAD 93 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 LUCKNOW, BAREILLY, AND ALMORA . ... 103 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 ALMORA AND PITHORAGARH. . . . .115 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 ALMORA, BAREILLY, RURKI, SAHARANPORE, AND DEHRA . 126 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 AMBALA, SUBATHU, AND LODIANA . . . . 137 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 AMRITSAR, CHUMBA, AND TARN TARAN . . . 147 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 SEALCOTE, RAWAL PIN DEE, AND LAHORE 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 FEROZEPORE, ULWAR, AGRA, AND JEYPORE 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 AHMEDABAD AND BOMBAY . . ... 177
 
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 A GLIMPSE 
 
 AT THE 
 
 INDIAN MISSION-FIELD. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 BOMBAY THE DHARMSALA. 
 
 THE growing importance of mission work amongst the 
 lepers of India, and the increasing interest awakened 
 in their spiritual and temporal welfare amongst Christians 
 at home, decided the Committee of the Mission to Lepers 
 in India on sending me out to make a tour in that country. 
 The object of my going was to visit as many Leper 
 Asylums as possible, and to make general enquiries into 
 the condition of the lepers, with a view to extending 
 our work amongst them. 
 
 Through the good hand of God I have been enabled 
 to complete my tour in health and safety. During a five 
 months' stay in India I travelled over 9400 miles, visiting 
 the Bombay, Madras, and Bengal Presidencies ; the Central 
 and North-west Provinces, Oudh, the Punjaub, and Rajpoot- 
 ana, besides visiting several of the Native States. During 
 the whole time such is the hospitality of Indian life I 
 was only once obliged to stay in a hotel. 
 
 A2 5
 
 THE y. J. HOSPITAL, BOMBAY. 
 
 I left home on November 4th, 1886, and, travelling by 
 the overland route, reached Bombay on the 22nd of the 
 same month. I was very fortunate in having among my 
 travelling companions Bishop Parker* (who was on his way 
 out to take up the work of the late Bishop Hannington), 
 Mr. and Mrs. Roberts, C.M.S. (going to Nasik), Mr. Jones 
 (Chaplain, Bellary), and Messrs. Johnson and Insell, of 
 the London Missionary Society; so we had a good band 
 of kindred spirits. Bishop Parker left at Aden for Zanzibar, 
 the rest of us going on to Bombay. 
 
 Being an old Indian I felt quite at home on arrival, and 
 was not long in falling among friends. 
 
 Through the kindness of Dr. Vandyke Carter I was 
 enabled to visit the J. J. Hospital the very day of my 
 arrival, he himself showing me over the leper ward. Here, 
 amongst others, I found four Eurasian lads (two Protestants, 
 and two Roman Catholics) ; one of them was a very awful 
 sight to look upon, but indeed all were bad enough. The 
 poor fellows seemed cheered by my visit ; I had an inter- 
 esting talk with them, and had the privilege of pointing 
 them to the Saviour. I afterwards sent one of them a 
 Bible, he having given me a promise that he would read 
 it. I heard through these men of the death of two 
 European lepers whom I had before known in this hospital; 
 one of them (who will be known to some of our readers as 
 the subject of a leaflet entitled Rejoicing in Hope) bore, 
 they told me, a good testimony to the last. This man, 
 I remember, told me that he was glad he had become a 
 leper, as it had been the means of leading him to the 
 Saviour. 
 
 November 23. I had an instance to-day of the clever- 
 ness of the native artisan. Having lost my keys, I was in 
 great trouble to get my despatch-box open ; and as I was in 
 
 * As we go to press we have just heard, with the deepest sorrow, of 
 the death of this devoted man from fever.
 
 THE I. F. N. S. SOCIETY. 
 
 immediate need of it, I sent out for a native locksmith. 
 After a short while I had shown into my room a little 
 withered-looking old man, with scarcely a rag of clothes on 
 him, a Mahommedan. His tools well, you could only call 
 them so by courtesy consisted of a file, one or two sharply- 
 pointed pieces of old iron, and a bunch of rusty keys. 
 After looking at him for a moment, and explaining -to him 
 that the lock was a valuable and intricate one, with fear and 
 trembling I made over my despatch -box into his hands, 
 and watched with some anxiety the result ; but lo, within a 
 shorter space of time than I take to tell it, the box was 
 open, the lock uninjured, and in a few moments more he 
 handed me a key to fit it, which he had just filed into shape 
 from an old one that he had upon his bunch. If Joseph 
 Bramah had been alive, and could have seen the perform- 
 ance, it would certainly have astonished him. 
 
 I breakfasted at the Normal School to-day, and was greatly 
 interested in meeting with Miss Crittall, and her nice-looking, 
 ladylike, native Christian girls, at family worship. Miss 
 Crittall is an agent of the Indian Female Normal School 
 Society. We had quite a missionary party to breakfast. 
 Besides Miss Crittall there were Miss Meyers, of the same 
 society; Mr. and Mrs. Roberts, of the C. M. S., who had 
 been my travelling companions from Port Said ; Mr. and 
 Mrs. de St. Dalmas, of the Anglo-Indian Evangelisation 
 Society ; and the Rev. George Bowen,* of Bombay, whose 
 name is too well known to need any explanation. 
 
 In the. afternoon Mr. Bowen and I visited the Bombay 
 District Benevolent Society's Institution in Byculla. It is 
 called the Dharmsala, that being the native name for a 
 charitable institution. This place is intended for all kinds 
 of destitute natives, but considerably more than half the 
 inmates are lepers who live in a part railed off from the 
 others. To give an accurate description of the horrors of 
 * Since my return home he has been called up higher.
 
 8 SAD SIGHTS IN THE DHARMSALA. 
 
 this sad community of 150 doomed ones would be impos- 
 sible ; suffice it to say that it requires no little courage to 
 enable one to pass up and down those chambers of living 
 death. Here are to be seen " wifeless husbands, husband- 
 less wives, children without parents, and parents without 
 children," who have been driven out of house and home 
 by their relatives as soon as it became known that the fell 
 disease had laid hold upon them. We saw there a man 
 and wife, both lepers, who had six children, several of 
 whom are living with their parents. There were young 
 girls there in whom the disease had only just begun, and 
 yet they were doomed to dwell amongst those who were in 
 the last stages of the terrible malady, and see the steps by 
 which they too must descend to the grave. One especially, 
 I remarked, very young, with a sweet face, and no mark of 
 the disease upon her except two fatal spots on her back, 
 just sufficient to tell her that her fate was sealed ; and this 
 poor child had been driven from her home, and had 
 wandered into this, the only refuge for lepers in the city of 
 Bombay.* 
 
 In the Dharmsala there is no attempt made to separate 
 the sexes; men, women, and children are all huddled 
 together in cells, 6x8 feet (these I measured with a tape), 
 two people occupying one cell, and in some cases, where 
 there are children, there are more than two in one. Oh, 
 the awful sights one sees here ! I could not bring myself 
 to describe everything. One poor fellow was spotted all 
 over like a leopard; another with great swollen hands, 
 one of which he was having freely bled (to relieve the 
 itchiness, he said) by a woman with an old razor. She 
 was tapping the hand all over with the top of the blade, 
 and the black blood was flowing freely. As you look at 
 
 * Five months after this I saw this girl, when on my way home, and 
 was shocked at the ravages the disease had made upon her in that short 
 time.
 
 THE DHARMSALA. 
 
 poor maimed limbs, and distorted faces, the latter generally 
 wearing a dull, hopeless expression, showing clearly that all 
 brightness has long since gone out of their lives, your 
 heart is drawn out in pity towards them, and you rejoice 
 to be able to tell them of the love and pity of One who 
 was specially tender to the leper, and whose precious blood 
 can cleanse them from the still worse leprosy of sin. 
 
 We saw there a healthy woman with a leprous husband, 
 and a healthy man with a leprous wife and daughter; in 
 such cases the love and devotion of the healthy one must 
 be very real indeed. I should never advocate the separa- 
 tion of husbands and wives, or of parents and children, 
 unless with the full and free consent of all concerned ; but 
 I should never allow marriages to take place in an asylum, 
 as they do in the Dharmsala ; while in the case of the 
 unmarried, the sexes should be kept strictly apart. I 
 cannot but feel that a place such as this Dharmsala, in one 
 of the most populous parts of a vast city like Bombay, 
 must be a grave source of danger,* while it is terrible to think 
 that this is the only refuge in Bombay for her leprous poor ; 
 and here they are crowded together, two in a cell measuring 
 six by eight feet, in defiance of all hygienic considerations. 
 
 Each adult inmate gets two pounds of rice, and, according 
 to circumstances (these circumstances depending on the 
 degree of helplessness of the sufferers), five, three, or two 
 pice a day, and they occasionally get presents of clothing 
 and blankets ; while they are allowed, for each child, two 
 pice and one pound of rice per day. This is apparently 
 
 * The following a true story will perhaps emphasise what I say, in 
 one direction at least. A girl, the daughter of leprous parents, grew 
 up without the disease, and got married outside the Dharmsala. After 
 a time she had a child which died, whereupon she was engaged as wet- 
 nurse by a European lady, and while acting in that capacity she 
 developed symptoms of leprosy, and finally went back to the Dharmsala, 
 and died there, a confirmed leper.
 
 io THE DHARMSALA. 
 
 the sum total of all that is done for them. Medical care 
 and comforts are not included. But we find this rule in 
 the report of the committee for the year 1885 : "Inmates 
 being sick shall be sent to the Sir Jamsetjee Jeejeebhoy 
 Hospital at the expense of the Society." Now, as everyone 
 who has had anything to do with poor lepers knows that 
 they are always sick, always ailing in some way or other, 
 were this rule to be carried out strictly, so far as they, the 
 lepers, are concerned, they would live in the J. J. Hospital, 
 and the wards of the Dharmsala would be empty. In my 
 experience of Leper Asylums now extending over a con- 
 siderable number of years I have found the physical 
 condition of the inmates good, just in proportion to the 
 amount of nourishing generous diet, and medical care 
 bestowed upon them. In going the rounds of the different 
 Leper Asylums of India, nothing strikes one" so forcibly as 
 this. Lepers require, as well as good food and clothing 
 and kind medical care, plenty of fresh air, room to move 
 about, good bathing accommodation, and something to 
 occupy their minds such as a little light gardening, or 
 learning to read, or something of that sort but none 
 of these are to be found in the Dharmsala. Out of the 
 five, three, or two pice a day, as the case may be, the poor 
 leper has to provide his own cooking utensils, and to buy 
 his own firewood, while very often he has to pay a neigh- 
 bour to cook for him, he himself being too helpless to 
 attempt anything of the kind. And as begging is strictly 
 forbidden under pain of expulsion, or having the daily 
 allowance stopped, these poor sufferers very often have 
 barely sufficient to keep body and soul together. 
 
 The indiscriminate mixing of the sexes in this institution 
 is greatly to be deplored. " No separation of the sexes is 
 enforced or even thought of." Now it is admitted that one 
 of the first rules of a well-ordered Leper Asylum is strict 
 separation of the sexes, and if possible, where the parents
 
 THE DHARMSALA. 
 
 are satisfied that it should be so, the children still untainted 
 by the disease should be placed in a home, where the 
 parents could visit them occasionally, without coming into 
 close contact. Such for instance as that in connection with 
 the Almora Asylum (N.W.P.). Another great fault of 
 the Dharmsala is that the lepers live in close proximity to 
 the blind, the lame, and the aged. It is true they are 
 railed off; but what protection is that? Here is what 
 was written of that place some years ago by Mr. Grattan 
 Geary, after a personal inspection of it : " There is a 
 nest of lepers in one of the most crowded parts of 
 this city which would taint the blood of the whole 
 .population, if leprosy were contagious in the sense that 
 smallpox is contagious. But it does not spread at 
 all events not much. Yet it continues to exist ; the 
 leper dies, but leprosy does not. How, then, can it be 
 perpetuated, if it be not contagious in some degree, and 
 under conditions happily not widely prevalent, but of the 
 nature of which we as yet know little ? The malady is 
 hereditary ; but that alone would not account for even the 
 limited extent to which it prevails. Doubtless, when the 
 system is depressed, or otherwise prepared for the reception 
 of the disease, contagion may set it up. But whatever the 
 means, it is incontestable that it occasionally lays hold of 
 victims free from hereditary taint ; and to the extent to 
 which this may happen under favouring conditions, no one 
 can venture to assign a limit. The spread of the disease 
 in Western Europe, after the return of the Crusaders from 
 the Holy Land, sufficiently establishes this fact. It cannot 
 therefore be regarded as a perfectly safe experiment to 
 allow lepers to congregate in the midst of a vast population 
 like that of Bombay, and leave them untended in their 
 misery." 
 
 In writing all this we do not for a moment wish to attach 
 any blame to the District Benevolent Society of Bombay ;
 
 12 BISHOP MEURIN'S INSTITUTION. 
 
 that society is an excellent one, but its committee is the 
 victim of circumstances. The Dharmsalawas not originally 
 intended as a Leper Asylum ; it was started as a charitable 
 institution for helpless people generally, but it immediately 
 became crowded with lepers, who now form considerably 
 more than half of the total number. The committee is, I 
 believe, most anxious to get rid of the lepers, and to keep 
 the Dharmsala free for other helpless poor. It was hoped, 
 when Bishop Meurin started his institution in Trombay, 
 that it would be the means of drawing off the lepers from 
 the Dharmsala, but it does not seem to have made any 
 appreciable difference. That is an excellent institution, 
 and the inmates receive the kindest and most generous 
 treatment; in fact no pains are spared to make them 
 happy and comfortable. Through the kindness of the late 
 Mr. Duncan, the Secretary, and of a member of the com- 
 mittee who accompanied me, I was enabled to see and 
 examine the place, and came away greatly impressed by 
 the able way in which it was conducted. But then it is 
 far from Bombay, is only for men, and had, at the time of 
 my visit, only nineteen inmates ; and were it to be full, I do 
 not believe it would accommodate more than fifty. 
 
 Surely in such a city as Bombay there should be a 
 separate institution for the poor afflicted leper, for sanitary 
 reasons, if even for no higher. I know that it has been 
 thought of before, that even a committee was formed, 
 and a considerable amount of money was collected, but 
 in some unaccountable way the whole thing was allowed to 
 fall through, and nothing ever came of it. Perhaps the 
 reason was that the scheme was a too pretentious one. 
 I for one would not advocate the erection of a great pile of 
 buildings, but would suggest neat little rows of twelve by 
 twelve rooms, with a nice verandah in front of each. Men's 
 and women's apartments should have no communication 
 whatever; there should be a separate house for the care-
 
 ASYLUM NEEDED IN BO MB A Y. 13 
 
 taker and his wife, a room for a dispensary, and a building 
 which could be used as school and church, or meeting- 
 house; and there should be a native doctor in constant 
 attendance. In this way many of the poor, wretched 
 beings, now wandering about the streets of the city and 
 suburbs of Bombay, might be made tolerably comfortable, 
 and their life, which is under present circumstances only a 
 burden, might be considerably brightened, not only with 
 the material comforts of this world, but also, and to a 
 much greater extent, with the blessed hope of the tearless 
 lift beyond. But such a work must be taken up by real 
 Christians, who are earnest and practical, and are willing to 
 do and give for the Master's sake. The building of such 
 an institution as I advocate, compared with similar institu- 
 tions at home, would cost comparatively little, while the 
 inmates could be supported, including everything, for 
 about five rupees a month per head; say, ^5 to 6 a 
 year. 
 
 Amongst the one hundred and fifty lepers at present in 
 the Dharmsala, there are about twenty-five Christians who, 
 we are told, exercise an influence for good on the others. 
 Mr. Bowen has baptised several. He and other mission- 
 aries visit the place from time to time, but I believe it is 
 difficult to carry on any direct evangelistic work, as the 
 institution is under native management for the most part. 
 I trust that the Lord may yet open the way for us to have 
 an asylum of our own in Bombay. I cannot but confess 
 to a feeling of sadness at times when I take up the paper 
 and see sums of ^5000, ^10,000, and ^20,000 given or 
 left for educational bursaries and such like; and when I 
 consider what one such gift would do for the lepers of 
 Bombay and Bombay is by no means the only city where 
 such an institution is needed ; all over India there are cities 
 and towns and villages where there is dire and imperative 
 need that something should be done, but nothing is done.
 
 14 DR. VANDYKE CARTER. 
 
 The cry of every one who has taken up this subject is, 
 "When will our Government do something?" 
 
 Dr. Vandyke Carter, in his great work on leprosy, in 
 summing up says, " Prevention of the disease is of para- 
 mount importance, and to this end the co-operation of the 
 Government and lay element of the community is needful. 
 Whatever else were the sanitary shortcomings of our an- 
 cestors, the measures publicly adopted and by authority 
 enforced in Great Britain and in most of Europe seem 
 to have been co-efficient, to say the least, in eradicating 
 leprosy. The kingdom of Norway having however been 
 deprived of the means indicated, leprosy still remains as 
 a complaint, showing here, as in other countries, no natural 
 tendency to subside ; but since the erection under modern 
 enlightenment of suitable asylums this disease has been 
 arrested, and, so far as can be judged, it is now diminishing 
 in a ratio which must increase with advancing years. 
 
 "The application of these remarks to India needs no 
 enforcing by me, for the illustration appears of itself suffi- 
 ciently obvious to induce conviction of the need and the 
 value of leper asylums as conducted at the present day."
 
 POONA. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 POONA AND MADRAS THE GOVERNMENT LEPER 
 HOSPITAL. 
 
 November 24. Left Bombay en route for Madras at 
 2 p.m. The scenery up the Bhore Ghaut is very fine 
 indeed. There is one wonderful hill with a top like a 
 church or cathedral, which one sees from several different 
 points of view as the train proceeds on its tortuous route 
 up the Ghaut. 
 
 On arrival at Poona, my first stopping-place, I was very 
 kindly received by Mr. and Mrs. Beaumont, of the Free 
 Church Mission, who had hospitably invited me to their 
 house during my stay. Messrs. Johnson and Insell, of the 
 London Missionary Society, my late fellow-passengers, were 
 also here. This is a place of great missionary activity. 
 There are, amongst others, Mr., Mrs., and Miss Beaumont; 
 and Mr., Mrs., and Miss Small, of the Free Church, of 
 Scotland; the Misses Bernard, of the Church of Scotland 
 Ladies' Association; and Mrs. Sorabji and her daughters, 
 who conduct the Victoria High School. Mr. Sorabji is a 
 retired native minister of the Church Missionary Society; 
 and Mrs. Sorabji will be well known to many of our 
 readers, as she has been recently addressing meetings in 
 England, Scotland, and Ireland, and pleading eloquently 
 on behalf of India's women. 
 
 The temperature here is much lower than in Bombay. 
 I enjoyed the beauty of the place immensely; the trees 
 and flowers were lovely. Everywhere there was a perfect 
 blaze of glory. As we drove through the station we saw
 
 16 VICTORIA HIGH SCHOOL, 
 
 crimson, blue, magenta, lilac, yellow, gold, orange, salmon, 
 pink, maroon, and many tints and shades of these colours, 
 while the deep green background served to bring into relief 
 all the other colours to perfection. 
 
 November 25. I visited the Victoria High School to-day, 
 and was greatly pleased with what I saw, especially its 
 distinctly Christian, one might say, missionary, character. 
 There are boys and girls, boarders and day-scholars, 
 European, Eurasian, and native children, Christians and 
 heathen, all learning together. It is the only school of the 
 kind I have seen. It seems to be very popular, and, I 
 should say, is calculated to do great good, as it must tend 
 to break down class prejudice and draw together Europeans 
 and natives, Christians and heathen. The education is, 
 I believe, very good, as the Misses Sorabji are highly-gifted 
 ladies, and seem to have a great love for teaching. It was 
 very interesting to see some of the little ones going through 
 one of their Kindergarten pieces. At a recent scripture 
 examination a Brahman boy of about twelve carried off 
 first prize. Miss Small, who conducted the examination, 
 says that his answers were faultless. The Misses Sorabji 
 have also a Bazaar School of poor children, which must, I 
 think, be a power for good. They likewise carry on some 
 Zenana work. The chief interest which attaches to this 
 Victoria High School is, I think, the fact that it is entirely 
 the creation of a native lady. Professor Oxenham, at a 
 recent meeting at the Soldiers' Institute in Poona, in 
 speaking of the school, said, " From individual energy it 
 derived its origin, and by individual energy and resource 
 it maintains its existence." And further on in his speech 
 he spoke of Mrs. Sorabji as the "founder" of the school. 
 At the same meeting Lord Reay, the Governor of Bombay, 
 said, " Accustomed as I am to travel in foreign lands, and 
 to see peculiar sights, yet when I visited this institution I 
 felt myself, and had information given me by the inspector
 
 POOR-HOUSE, CAMP BAZAAR. 17 
 
 to confirm my opinion, that I had seen a very remarkable 
 sight All this I have not forgotten. The mixture of 
 sexes, the various languages taught which are not set down 
 in the regular course, and the mixture of races which in a 
 country like India is of the greatest importance, for it is 
 the duty of people of different nations living in one land 
 to learn to know and appreciate each other." 
 
 It was a great privilege to me to conduct the weekly 
 prayer meeting in Mr. Beaumont's church in the evening. 
 The audience was mostly English; but the girls from the 
 Free Church Orphanage were present, and were a great 
 help to us in the singing. They sat round in front of me, 
 the smaller ones on the floor, and the others on the front 
 bench. Altogether this was a most enjoyable service. 
 
 November 26. A cloudy, cool morning. At eight o'clock 
 I walked over to the poor-house in the Camp Bazaar, and 
 went over it. There were only ten inmates, of whom two 
 were Christian lepers, a man (Mahadeo) and a woman 
 (Sahaitri). Most of the other inmates are Christians, and a 
 regular service is held for them in a little room attached to 
 the institution, set apart for that purpose. The poor lepers 
 seemed much gratified at my taking an interest in them. 
 
 At eleven o'clock I went to see the Misses Bernard, 
 of the Church of Scotland Ladies' Association, who had 
 kindly promised to take me to see some of their schools. 
 Accompanied by Miss Bernard, I visited six of their eight 
 city schools, and was intensely interested in all that I saw. 
 The little girls were extremely bright and intelligent, and 
 seemed to enter into their work with great spirit. At one 
 school I asked some questions about the Lord Jesus, which 
 they answered well ; at another I asked for some messages 
 to take to English children and got some strange ones. 
 They seem to have no idea of what they should say to 
 English children; and yet, after all, would not one find 
 children in our schools at home just as shy, and unable to 
 
 B
 
 IS CHURCH OF SCOTLAND LADIES' ASSOCIATION. 
 
 express themselves if asked in the same way before their 
 classmates ? Indeed, of the two I consider that the native 
 children of India often show a greater degree of savoir 
 faire than would English or Scotch children under like 
 circumstances. Among some of the messages I got were 
 the following, " Salaam," " Good-bye," and " Believe on the 
 Lord Jesus Christ." These ladies are doing a splendid 
 work here, and are deserving of every support. They 
 have eight girls' schools in the city and camp, two mixed 
 village schools, and one village night school for boys and 
 men. They have about twenty-five girls (boarders) living 
 with them, whom they take with them to visit in the other 
 schools. Ninety zenanas are regularly visited. There are 
 seven assistant missionary ladies, and thirteen native 
 Christian teachers, and a catechist employed to preach 
 in the villages. Besides all this, Miss Dr. Bernard has 
 just opened a Medical Mission. 
 
 Here are two interesting cases in connection with the 
 work of these ladies, and showing what a power the gospel 
 is becoming in the homes of India. These little children 
 learning in our mission schools are becoming unconscious 
 little missionaries. "Do you remember my writing about 
 a young Brahman girl who had such a beautiful voice, and 
 was very fond of singing hymns? Just before going to 
 Mahableshvvar I visited her father, who was very ill. It 
 
 was a very bigoted house, but D 's brother promised he 
 
 would read to his father a book I said I would send. 
 I sent over a Gospel. Last week I went to have a talk 
 
 with D , who is now married, and she told me her 
 
 old father had been reading it continually to the last, 
 and had told her to tell him about Jesus, and she had sung 
 many hymns to him. One very sweet hymn about Christ 
 on the cross calling sinners to Himself is one of her great 
 favourites, and I cannot but trust the old dying Brahman 
 found comfort."
 
 "HOLD TIGHT ON TO CHRIST'S HAND!" 19 
 
 " Mention is made of cholera as prevalent in Poona. 
 Many were dying, and some of the little scholars had been 
 taken. One child had died of consumption after some 
 months' illness. With her dying breath she cried, ' Lord, 
 Lord ! ' while her mother, one of the native Christian 
 workers, encouraged her little one to the last, saying, 
 'Don't be afraid; hold tight on to Christ's hand!' What 
 a bright picture in contrast to the poor Hindu mother's 
 awful desolation by her child's death-bed ! " 
 
 The Free Church missionaries are also hard at work, but 
 I was unable, owing to my limited time, to see much 
 of their work. They have two orphanages one for boys, 
 with a printing press attached, and one for girls ; there 
 is also a boys' day-school. Mr. Small was out on a 
 preaching tour, so I had not the pleasure of meeting him. 
 
 November 28. Left Poona the evening of the 26th at 8, 
 and arrived in Madras this morning at 6.30, having been 
 thirty-four and a half hours in the train without a break two 
 nights and one day. Oh, the state of absolute filth that one 
 gets into on these long, dusty Indian journeys ! People 
 who have not travelled on Eastern railways can have 
 scarcely an idea of it. The dirt gets into the roots of 
 one's hair, into one's whiskers and moustache, and even 
 into one's eyebrows; and if there is much perspiration, 
 as there very generally is on Indian journeys, one's skin 
 becomes begrimed with dirt. And should you happen 
 to be going to the house of a friend at the end of the 
 journey, it is with some feelings of mortification and 
 humiliation that you step out of your conveyance to shake 
 hands with your kind host, who probably meets you in 
 spotless white. In this case I was fortunately able to have 
 my "tub" and a change of clothes before meeting anybody. 
 The first night of my journey was very cool, and I was 
 able to have a topcoat on ; but after that, as we got further 
 south, it became very hot. I was surprised at the number
 
 RAILWAY TRAVELLING. 
 
 of natives I found travelling second class. It used not to 
 be so, but evidently there is a great change in native opinion 
 on this, as well as on other subjects. There was some 
 petty rajah or governor travelling part of the way in the 
 train with me, and at every station, while we were passing 
 through his territory, there were a few native troops drawn 
 up, in charge of a native officer, just for the simple purpose 
 of saluting this dignitary. At one station the saluting 
 party went through their evolutions so badly that it afforded 
 great amusement to some British troops who were travelling 
 in the next compartment to mine. A great deal of the 
 country between Poona and Madras is very bare, and 
 appears to- be of a volcanic nature. Every now and then 
 we passed low hills and great boulders, looking as if they 
 had just been belched out of the earth but a short while 
 before. 
 
 What unexpected kindness one sometimes meets with 
 when travelling. At a station called Gondakul I was 
 obliged to re-book to Madras, and required eleven rupees 
 in change ; this I had not got, and so asked if they could 
 give me change of a one hundred rupee note ; but no, they 
 had not got it. Here was a dilemma. At once the station- 
 master, a Eurasian, came to the rescue, and offered to lend 
 me the money, saying that I could send it back by the 
 guard on arrival at Madras. I have often thought that 
 if my guard on that occasion was not an honest man, that 
 money was never paid to the station-master of Gondakul, 
 and I lie under the imputation of having returned evil for 
 good. I once met with a similar kindness to this when 
 travelling on the Continent. On a Sunday afternoon I 
 ran short of money between Brindisi and Paris, and had 
 not a good-natured Irish officer come to my aid with ^3 
 in gold, I should have been placed in a very awkward 
 position. On both these occasions I was a perfect stranger 
 to those who helped me.
 
 MISSION SOCIETIES, MADRAS. 
 
 At Madras I was the guest of Mr. R. C. Chapman, of 
 the Finance Department, who takes an interest in all the 
 mission work of this place. Madras has been rightly 
 called the "city of magnificent distances." In order to 
 get about one has to hire a conveyance by the day, and 
 even then one cannot accomplish more than four or five 
 visits between breakfast and dinner ; some of the places 
 are four and five miles apart from each other, and the 
 horses and conveyances are execrable. 
 
 There is a good deal of earnest mission work being done 
 in the city, and many missionary societies are represented ; 
 both evangelistic and educational work are being earnestly 
 carried on. Among the societies at work are the Church 
 Missionary Society, the Free, and Established Churches of 
 Scotland, the London Missionary Society, the Wesleyan 
 Mission, and the American Episcopal Methodist. 
 
 On Sunday evening I attended Christ Church, where the 
 service was conducted by good Bishop Cell (the Bishop of 
 Madras, a man deservedly beloved and respected by all 
 denominations), and Mr. Sell, of the C. M. S., the sermon 
 being preached by Mr. Wigram, Hon. Sec. C. M. S., who 
 is visiting the stations of that society throughout the 
 whole of India, after which he is to go on to China and 
 Japan. 
 
 November 30. Breakfasted with Dr. Miller of the Madras 
 Christian College, which is, I should say, the finest institu- 
 tion of its kind in India. After breakfast he very kindly 
 took me through the whole of the institution, from the very 
 lowest to the highest (his College) classes : it took us 
 about an hour to go over it. Here one sees the very cream 
 of the educational side of mission work, and, without 
 touching on the vexed question of Educational versus Evan- 
 gelistic work, one cannot but see that an institution such as 
 this must wield a tremendous influence for good. Indeed 
 I have had some disinterested and valuable testimonies to
 
 32 MAS. THEOPHILUS 'S BIBLE WOMEN. 
 
 this being the case. A police officer in the Madras Presi- 
 dency, in speaking of the Madras Christian College, said, 
 " Miller's College! I snap up all the men I can get hold of 
 from that institution. I find I can depend upon the men 
 who have been educated there." Dr. Miller is like a father 
 among his boys and young men, and appears to exercise a 
 wonderful influence over them. 
 
 I next visited the Free Church Christian Girls' Boarding 
 School, under the management of Miss Stephens and Miss 
 Strong ; and by their kindness I was allowed to address a 
 few words to the girls. I wish that some of the good 
 people at home, who have doubts as to the wisdom of a 
 high training for these native girls, could see them as I did 
 that morning; I feel sure they would find their doubts 
 vanishing ; the most marked thing about the girls was their 
 quiet, modest, and ladylike behaviour. 
 
 After leaving the Girls' School I called upon Mrs. 
 Theophilus, having been for a long time interested in her 
 Bible women's work. She is the daughter of the late Rev. 
 Raja Gopal, of the Free Church, and the wife of a native 
 clergyman, and is, I believe, doing immense good through 
 her Bible women. Two of them at one time visited in the 
 wards of the Government Leper Hospital, and became 
 deeply interested in some of the leper women there ; but 
 Mrs. Theophilus was told by a medical missionary that it 
 was unsafe for them to visit the Leper Hospital in their bare 
 feet, so it was thought expedient that the visits should be 
 discontinued, much to the grief of all concerned. The 
 Bible women were specially interested in the case of one 
 woman who was in the hospital in 1885. They had been 
 going through the life of Christ with this woman, and found 
 her much touched by the Saviour's compassion, and desiring 
 to know more of His love, though sadly at a loss to under- 
 stand why she and her fellow-sufferers should be allowed to 
 go through so much. She was greatly distressed on hearing
 
 GOVERNMENT LEPER HOSPITAL. 23 
 
 that the Bible Women were to discontinue their visits, and 
 wept much ; but when she realised Christ as her Saviour, 
 she said that she could brave all, and she died soon after. 
 I am happy to think that these visits have now been begun 
 again, and that the Mission to Lepers in India has now got 
 a Bible woman regularly visiting at the hospital, under the 
 superintendence of Mrs. Theophilus, as well as a catechist 
 for the men in connection with the Wesleyan Mission ; 
 already there are signs of blessing. 
 
 , December i. Visited the Monegar Choultry and Govern- 
 ment Leper Hospital, where I met Dr. Thompson, C.I.E., 
 who spared no pains to give me a thorough insight into 
 both those admirable institutions. The former is a large 
 charity hospital, built largely, I believe, by native philan- 
 thropy, and aided by Government. Its extensive buildings 
 stand on one side of the road, with wards for general 
 patients ; also accident, infectious diseases, and lying-in 
 wards. On the other side stands the Leper Asylum, with 
 separate wards for males and females. The asylum is 
 beautifully kept, both as to its external and internal 
 arrangements. The patients looked clean and comfortable, 
 and some were fairly cheerful; others, indeed many of 
 them, had that dull despairing look so characteristic of 
 those suffering from this woeful disease. I saw children 
 there, both boys and girls, with the disease in its incipient 
 stages, still childlike. They smiled at us brightly, and 
 seemed so glad to be taken notice of; yet doomed to 
 something far worse than death. Nothing seems to touch 
 one's heart, in connection with this sad subject, so much as 
 the terrible case of these poor children. There were 
 altogether 149 inmates in the Leper Asylum, of whom 105 
 were men, 37 women, and 7 children. Again dividing 
 them, we find that 36 are classed as European (Eurasian in 
 reality, though some may be pure Europeans) and 113 as 
 natives. There was one man covered all over with spots,
 
 24 GOVERNMENT LEPER HOSPITAL. 
 
 the rings of which were widening like a ringworm, while 
 the centres seemed to be regaining their normal appearance; 
 he had no sores or tubercles whatever. Another poor 
 fellow showed us large blisters on his hands, where he had 
 burnt himself without knowing it. Dr. Thompson told me 
 of a European soldier who was a leper, and who had set 
 fire to his sleeve while lighting a cheroot, and did not find 
 it out till his poor arm had been dreadfully burnt, so great 
 is the anaesthesia in some cases. I have met lepers who 
 have told me, that from the top of the head to the soles of 
 the feet they had literally no feeling on the surface of the 
 body. "The whole head is sick, and the whole heart 
 faint. From the sole of the foot even unto the head there 
 is no soundness in it ; but wounds, and bruises, and putri- 
 fying sores : they have not been closed, neither bound up, 
 neither mollified with ointment." What a picture of the 
 poor sinner does the outcast leper present ! In this asylum 
 Dr. Thompson insists on remedies being used every day, 
 and the results are most gratifying ; for, while no cures have 
 been effected, the general condition of the lepers is greatly 
 improved. Going round from ward to ward, I could not 
 fail to contrast this place with the Dharmsala of Bombay, 
 and the contrast was by no means favourable to the latter. 
 
 I was pleased to hear that Lady Dufferin had visited 
 these poor lepers when in Madras, and also to find that 
 Christian work was being carried on. The chaplain of 
 North Black Town visits the Protestant Christians regularly, 
 and holds services for them ; while they have not been 
 neglected by the missionaries. The Rev. G. Mackenzie 
 Cobban, Wesleyan Missionary Society, states that for the 
 past ten years Christian work has been earnestly and 
 systematically carried on, under the auspices of that society, 
 amongst the lepers of Madras; for the past four years an 
 agent has been specially engaged to devote his whole time 
 to this work. In addition to the services, they are regularly
 
 WESLEY AN MISSION. 25 
 
 visited, and no pains are spared to lead them to trust in 
 Him who was, and is, the leper's Friend. Mr. Cobban has 
 baptized twenty-one Hindus from among them, and these 
 form a little Church. He gives it as his opinion, that there 
 are other places in the Madras Presidency where there are 
 good openings for work amongst the lepers, and my own 
 opinion quite coincides with his ; indeed, there is practically 
 no limit to the amount of deeply-needed and deeply- 
 interesting work which we may carry on amongst this 
 suffering class.
 
 26 ARCONUM. 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 ARCONUM, ARCOT, VELLORE, AND BANGALORE. 
 
 December 2. Left Madras at 5.45 p.m., and arrived at 
 Arcot at 9 p.m., having stopped for tea at Arconum, which 
 is a junction. At this latter place there is a branch of the 
 Established Church of Scotland's Mission, under the Rev. 
 Mr. Rice and a native pastor, in which there seems to be a 
 good deal of evangelistic as well as educational work done. 
 I find the following remarks regarding this Mission in the 
 report for the year : " Fifteen years ago it was as bigoted a 
 place as any in this part of India. Everything done by us 
 was met by the most strenuous opposition opposition 
 schools, organized opposition to the preaching. How 
 different now. Our missionary and catechists welcomed ; a 
 native church, with almost thirty communicants, in the 
 village itself." 
 
 On arrival at Arcot, I had to put up for the night in the 
 railway station (a very common experience in India), my 
 servant making me an impromptu bed in the waiting-room, 
 where I should have rested comfortably enough, as I was 
 very tired, had it not been for the heat and noise, together 
 with the diligent attention of the mosquitoes, who gave me 
 no peace all night. I was astir betimes in the morning (Dec. 3), 
 and getting hold of an intelligent coolie, managed to get some 
 tea made, but could get nothing to eat. After that I hired 
 a jatka, a funny little flat-bottomed, two-wheeled conveyance, 
 drawn by a very diminutive bullock, or pair, as the case 
 may be. It has a barrel-shaped covering of matting to
 
 THE JATKA. 27 
 
 keep off the sun. The occupant is compelled to lie down 
 all the time, or sit like a tailor, as there is no place to stow 
 away the legs ; and in order to take one's place in it, one is 
 obliged to dive in from behind, head foremost, on hands 
 and knees ; and this is a most undignified proceeding, after 
 having had a long bargaining with the driver, before an 
 admiring crowd of natives, as to the amount of hire. On 
 this occasion I bargained with the driver to take me out to 
 Ranipett (the Rani's town), a distance of three miles and 
 a half, for four annas (about sixpence). Ranipett is a 
 station of the Mission of the Reformed Church of America. 
 Here I spent a delightful day with the missionaries 
 Mr. and Mrs. Conklin, and Dr. Heckhuis, a medical 
 missionary. I visited Dr. Heckhuis' dispensary. He has 
 been put in charge of the government hospital and dis- 
 pensary here, and is of course allowed to carry on his work 
 as a missionary. Afterwards went with Mr. Conklin to his 
 seminary and theological school, and had the privilege of 
 taking part in their morning worship. After breakfast a 
 number of beggars assembled at the mission -house to 
 receive alms. They come once a week, when they have 
 the gospel preached to them, and at the same time receive 
 a few coppers each. Amongst them was a poor leper, 
 whose hands were in a fearful state. When it came to his 
 turn to receive his money, the poor fellow, with a delicacy 
 of feeling which it was touching to behold, covered up his 
 poor maimed hand with the cloth which he had round him, 
 and then stretched it out. Dr. Heckuis tells me there are 
 many lepers in this district, and has kindly promised to 
 enquire if there is any way in which they can be reached as 
 a special class. Afterwards there was family worship at the 
 mission-house, in which the heathen servants were invited 
 to take part. This inviting of the heathen servants to 
 family worship is a duty that is too often neglected by 
 missionaries. I know that many missionaries have a great
 
 28 AflSSIONAKIES' SERVANTS. 
 
 delicacy about it, fearing that heathen servants will only 
 come because they feel bound to do so as your servants, 
 and that in asking them to attend, we make an unfair use 
 of our position as their master. Now, while I have a great 
 deal of sympathy with this feeling, I am afraid that it is 
 false sentiment, and that our duty is to invite them again 
 and again, and give them every opportunity of hearing 
 God's word. I know I now look back with great regret 
 upon my remissness in this matter ; and were I to live over 
 again my life as a missionary, with the knowledge that I 
 now have, I should be more particular about it. There is 
 no doubt in the world but that when the practice of having 
 heathen servants in to daily family worship has been faith- 
 fully observed much blessing has resulted from it, and 
 there have been numerous instances of direct conversion. 
 
 In the afternoon drove round this very pretty little 
 station, and saw the house which had been built by the 
 government to receive King Thebaw when sent to India as 
 a state prisoner, but which was never occupied by him, 
 owing to some sudden change on the part of the authorities. 
 Ranipett stands on high ground, and the climate is dry and 
 good. Mr. Conklin and Dr. Heckhuis went off in the 
 evening on an evangelistic tour, and I left for the railway 
 station of Arcot It has been a truly missionary day, and 
 I have enjoyed it immensely. 
 
 Left Arcot by the 9.3 train, and arrived at Vellore railway 
 station, my next stopping-place, at 10 p.m., and was met 
 by Mr. Paterson's peon (messenger) with a kind note of 
 welcome. Again stretching myself in a little jatka, I drove 
 out to the town of Vellore, about four miles distant. 
 
 Vellore is a pretty and interesting place. It is sur- 
 rounded by low hills of a very rocky formation, and has 
 an interesting old fort and pagoda, which are worth a visit 
 The town is very clean, and the climate is said to be good. 
 There are two missions working here the Reformed Church
 
 VELLORE MISSIONS. 29 
 
 of America, with Dr. Scudder and family (Scudder is a 
 well-known missionary name) ; and the Established Church 
 of Scotland, under Mr. Paterson. The Church of Scotland 
 has a very fine school of nearly 500 boys, and also a girls' 
 school, with an average attendance of 80. I had the 
 pleasure of visiting both. In the latter, where there was a 
 Eurasian sewing-mistress in charge, the girls sang two 
 Tamil lyrics very prettily, also "Jesus Loves Me" in 
 English. I am sorry to see by the Report that this school 
 is to be given up, and the money hitherto spent on it 
 devoted to another department of work. Of the boys' 
 school, the Report for the year says, "The chief object of 
 the school is to give the pupils religious instruction. When 
 the boys meet in the morning they assemble in the hall, 
 and the school is opened with reading from the Bible 
 and prayer. In the evening the boys assemble again, and 
 the school is closed with prayer. Every class has a Bible 
 lesson daily. Mr. Samuel and the other Christian teachers 
 take these lessons." It is interesting to see five Christian 
 natives at work in this school. 
 
 Mrs. and Miss Scudder have a girls' seminary here ; but 
 my stay being so short, I was unable to see anything of it, 
 or of the other work of these well-known American 
 missionaries, though I was glad to have the pleasure of 
 making their acquaintance. They live some little distance 
 outside Vellore, which necessitated my taking a jatka when 
 I went to call upon them anything but a dignified mode 
 of conveyance for making calls, as, should you be fortunate 
 enough to escape notice when getting out of your carriage 
 on arrival, you are pretty sure to be seen by your kind host, 
 as he sees you off at the door on leaving, ignominiously 
 scrambling into your conveyance on hands and knees. 
 
 December 5. Left Vellore last night at 10 for Bangalore, 
 where I should have arrived at 6 this morning, but we 
 were detained for two full hours in the night, in order
 
 30 BANGALORE. 
 
 to let the Viceroy's "Special" pass us at a particular 
 station. I must say it seemed an unnecessarily clumsy 
 arrangement on the part of the railway company, ne- 
 cessitating, as it did, our breaking in on the Sunday. 
 
 Bangalore is one of the prettiest stations I have seen in 
 India. It has magnificent trees and flowers, beautiful 
 public buildings, and is kept like an English nobleman's 
 demesne. The climate is said to be exceptionally good, 
 and is now cool enough to admit of our wearing ordinary 
 English clothing. It stands 3000 feet above sea-level. 
 
 There are numerous missionary societies represented here, 
 and a great deal of good work being done. Among others, 
 I was able to call upon the Rev. Benjamin Rice, a veteran 
 of the London Missionary Society, who has been labouring 
 here for fifty years, and whose jubilee they are just about 
 to celebrate.* Also on Mr. Slater, of the same society; 
 Mr. Hudson, of the Wesleyan Mission ; and Miss Mullins, 
 an honorary worker, who has already won her way to 
 the native heart, and is a great favourite. It was curious 
 to find a Brixton Villa in Bangalore the name of her 
 house. I am the guest here of Mr. Jollie, Scottish chaplain, 
 and his good wife, and have had the privilege of joining in 
 their Communion. Mr. Jollie has been here many years, 
 and is, I believe, greatly respected, being an earnest and 
 devoted labourer. 
 
 There is a very nice leper asylum here, belonging to the 
 Mysore Government. A lunatic asylum stands on one 
 side of a large enclosure, and the leper asylum on the 
 other ; both are beautifully kept. I was fortunate enough 
 to find the doctor in charge going his morning rounds, and 
 he kindly went round with me. There are twenty men and 
 ten women in the leper asylum. Men and women occupy 
 quite distinct quarters. The doctor pointed out one man, 
 and said, " That is a very good man, and he always appears 
 * Since my visit this aged servant of God has entered upon his rest.
 
 LEPER ASYLUM. 31 
 
 to be happy, whenever I come." I spoke to him for a 
 few moments, and found out that he was a Eurasian and a 
 Protestant. The poor fellow did seem quite happy, but 
 told me that he was greatly annoyed by not being able 
 to feel the ground under his feet ; in other words, he had 
 no feeling whatever in his feet. I saw one poor fellow 
 without either hands or feet, and two babies being nursed 
 by leprous mothers. 
 
 What a comfort to these poor suffering lepers when they 
 are resting in Christ ! and what a blessed thing to be able 
 to tell them of His love ! There does not seem to be any 
 special opening for work here at present, as the doctor 
 in charge is opposed to missionary effort. 
 
 December 6. Left Bangalore at 7.40 p.m., and travelled 
 as far as Jollarpett with Mr. Beattie, a chaplain who has 
 just been appointed by Government to succeed the Rev. 
 Gelson Gregson in his temperance work among the soldiers. 
 So great has been the improvement in the British soldier in 
 India, from a temperance point of view, owing, under 
 God, to the earnest and faithful labours of Mr. Gregson, 
 that the Government has handsomely acknowledged his 
 services, and has now appointed a man to succeed him. 
 (To one unlearned in the logic of these subjects it does 
 seem a little strange that the authorities should, by the 
 canteen system, themselves provide the necessity for the 
 temperance chaplain !) 
 
 Leaving Mr. Beattie at Jollarpett about midnight, I 
 proceeded to Coimbatore, where I rested twenty-four hours 
 with my brother-in-law, W. F. Grahame, Esq., M.C.S., Acting 
 Judge of Coimbatore; and resuming my journey on the 
 morning of December 8, 1 arrived at Shoranur at 1.30 p.m., 
 where I found a bullock bandee (a country-cart without 
 springs) awaiting me. From this I had to travel south by 
 road to Trichur, taking the common mode of conveyance 
 in this part of the country, i.e., a bullock-cart, which seems
 
 32 THE BULLOCK " JBANDEE." 
 
 as if it had been invented to demonstrate how uncomfort- 
 able it is possible to make carriage exercise. Travelling in 
 a bullock-cart without springs is at all times excruciating, 
 but in my case it was almost intolerable, as I had un- 
 fortunately contracted fever at Coimbatore, and every bone 
 in my body was aching. The journey from Shoranur to 
 Trichur lasted only seven hours, but to me it seemed in- 
 terminable. At last, having travelled through a lovely 
 country, the bullock-cart pulled up at the C. M. S. mission- 
 house, and I was very heartily welcomed by Mrs. Bishop, 
 wife of the missionary in charge ; owing, however, to my 
 prostrate condition, I was able to give but a very feeble 
 response to this cordial reception, and very soon asked 
 leave to retire. I was sorry to find that I should not have 
 the pleasure of seeing Mr. Bishop, as he was away on a 
 preaching tour.
 
 CASTE IN TRICHUR. 33 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 TRICHUR, PALLYPURAM ASYLUM, COCHIN, 
 AND ALLEPPEY. 
 
 December 9. I am now in Travancore Territory it is 
 very different to anything else I have seen in India, and 
 is specially interesting. It is a native state, and while in 
 some respects under what might be called very enlightened 
 rule, it is in others terribly backward. For instance, this 
 town of Trichur is said to be the crime de la crime of 
 Brahmanism ; and caste in all its hideousness reigns 
 supreme. 
 
 Mrs. Murray Mitchell, in her very interesting book, In 
 Southern India, says, in speaking of Trichur : " Caste is in- 
 tensely and exceptionally strong, and, as elsewhere, stands in 
 the way of all progress. The degradation of the low castes, 
 consequent on the absurd and oppressive laws of caste, is 
 terrible here, and hardly to be believed. For example, no 
 native Christian, however educated and intelligent, nor any 
 person of low caste, can obtain employment in a public 
 office, for fear of polluting those officials who may be of 
 higher caste ! Then the school difficulties are endless. 
 The children of some of the inferior castes dare not even 
 approach a school where higher caste lads are taught. The 
 disabilities are inconceivable, and so are the injustice and 
 inequality of the laws. Women, too, are degraded to a 
 degree you hardly find equalled in these days of reform in 
 any other part of India. It is terrible to look at some of 
 
 c
 
 34 C. M. S., TRICHUR. 
 
 the poor, miserable-looking creatures, with hardly any 
 clothing and no sense even of decency."* 
 
 Notwithstanding this sad picture, mission work is being 
 faithfully and earnestly carried oil by Mr. and Mrs. Bishop, 
 and by the Misses Coleman of the Church of England 
 Zenana Mission. To Mrs. Bishop belongs the honour of 
 having started the first day-school for Hindu girls in this 
 place. Recently there has been quite a revival in the 
 native church, under the preaching of Mr. Rowe, of the 
 Anglo-Indian Evangelization Society; Mr. Bishop had in- 
 vited him, and though he laboured under the disadvantage 
 of preaching through an interpreter, his message was greatly 
 blessed. 
 
 There are two interesting boarding-schools here, one for 
 boys and one for girls; the latter wear a very peculiar 
 costume, it consists of a loose white jacket, and for a 
 petticoat a white sheet securely fastened round the loins, 
 and coming down to the feet, while their glossy black hair, 
 well brushed, is drawn tightly back and fastened in a knob 
 behind. There are more Christian girls than boys, as the 
 latter are drafted off to a Christian college at Cottayam. I 
 was awakened at five this morning by the girls singing their 
 
 * Since writing the above the following has appeared in the Indian 
 Witness: " We sympathise with the native brethren of Travancore, who 
 are being seriously injured by Mr. Ragunatha Row's decision, that 
 Christians, being of no caste, are therefore low caste. The High 
 Court of this self-styled model native state has confirmed the magis- 
 trate's decision. Mission schools have been broken up, and Christians 
 refused the privilege of sending an address to Her Majesty, because 
 they were ' low caste ' ; and also refused the privilege of drawing 
 water from tanks resorted to by ' high caste ' people, and likely to be 
 compelled to keep off certain streets where these people walk. If the 
 English Government can overlook such an atrocity, they may expect to 
 hear that as the Queen Empress is of 'low caste,' the laws of the 
 Empire are not binding upon people of ' high caste ' ! The attention 
 of humane people is being turned to the caste legislation of Travancore, 
 and we cannot doubt the result."
 
 SNAKES. 35 
 
 morning hymn ; it was very pretty, and could be heard 
 distinctly, though they are in a different house. 
 
 To-day, whilst Mrs. Bishop and I were looking at an old 
 map together, we suddenly observed a scorpion walking 
 over it. The creature had evidently been concealed under 
 one of the rollers, and the map must have been lying by 
 for some time. In India I have always found it necessary 
 to be very careful in turning out old papers or rubbish of 
 any kind. I have frequently turned up scorpions and 
 centipedes ; and on one occasion, when turning out some 
 old papers in the corner of a room, I found a snake lying 
 in the middle of them. This reminds me of some remark- 
 able escapes I and mine have had from snakes during my 
 residence in India, and every one of any lengthened ex- 
 perience must have known many such. I once had occasion 
 to go to a storeroom at night, and as I knew exactly the 
 position of the thing I was in search of, I was not troubling 
 to take a light; but my wife said, "You had better take a 
 light," and it was well for me that I took her advice, for 
 inside the threshold of the storeroom I found a snake 
 lying full length. 
 
 On another occasion I was sleeping in the verandah 
 on a hot night. It was bright moonlight. Something 
 awoke me, and I looked round and saw that my blanket 
 had partly fallen off the bed, and was lying on the 
 floor. On bending over to lift it up I discovered a snake 
 lying coiled in the piece of blanket which was resting 
 on the ground, with his head peeping out from a fold. As 
 soon as I had recovered from my surprise, and had ascer- 
 tained his exact position, I reached forward for one of my 
 slippers, and with one blow on the head despatched the 
 intruder without leaving my bed. Once our children were 
 playing with the children of a brother missionary at our 
 drawing-room door, all sitting round the door-mat, when 
 suddenly a snake emerged from under the mat, and passing
 
 36 THE BACKWATER. 
 
 through the little ones, glided swiftly away, but only to be 
 despatched the next instant by my friend and me. These 
 are but a few out of many instances in which we have seen 
 the hand of a loving Father in protecting us from real and 
 imminent danger. 
 
 Left Trichur at 8.30 p.m., Mrs. Bishop kindly sending 
 me down to the water's edge in the mission bandee, a very 
 different conveyance from the last one of that name in 
 which I travelled. This one had springs. What a differ- 
 ence ! The route to Alleppey is by boat along the Back- 
 water a series of lakes connected by canals, which are 
 filled by the numerous streams and rivers coming down from 
 the hills. I am in a long boat rowed by ten men, at one 
 end of which is a little covered-in space dignified by the 
 name of cabin, in which my bedding is spread for the 
 night, the ten oarsmen occupying the rest of the boat. 
 Fine fellows they are too, of tremendous muscle and full 
 of endurance. It is forty-five miles to Cochin, our next 
 stopping-place. 
 
 December 10. I passed a very trying night, suffering a 
 good deal of pain, owing to the fever still keeping its hold 
 upon me. Had I been well this journey would have been 
 by no means unpleasant, as the motion of the boat is not 
 disagreeable there is just a little jerk from the pull of the 
 oars, nothing more. The lasting powers of these boatmen 
 is to me marvellous. They have pulled steadily all night, 
 enlivening the proceedings every now and then with song, 
 which from its style and strength was anything but soothing 
 to my poor feverish brain. 
 
 At 6 a.m. we arrived at the Pallypuram Leper Asylum, 
 and I went on shore to see it. The poor lepers were greatly 
 taken by surprise at such an early visit from a stranger. 
 Most of them had not yet come out of their houses. This 
 seems an excellent asylum, clean, airy, and in good order ; 
 the men and women are kept apart, but are so close, and
 
 COCHIN LAZARUS HOSPITAL. 37 
 
 there is so little apparent supervision (there appeared to be 
 no one in charge on the premises) that I should imagine 
 there would be no difficulty in their having access one to 
 the other ; there were thirty-four inmates, of whom twenty 
 were males, and fourteen females. There are two sets of 
 fourteen houses, seven in a row, facing each other, one set 
 being for the males, and the other for the females ; the two 
 sets are back to back, and parallel the one to the other ; 
 there is plenty of space between the rows of houses, and 
 a line of graceful plantain trees growing in the middle. 
 Each set of houses is enclosed with a railing and a gate, 
 and the whole stands within a large "compound," which 
 has a paling all round. It is called the Cochin Lazarus 
 Hospital, and is dated "A. o. 1728." The inmates are 
 mostly Roman Catholics and low-caste people (all natives). 
 There is one Protestant ; he, too, was once a Roman 
 Catholic, but became a Protestant twenty years ago. He 
 was servant to a European, had been in England, and 
 could speak a very little English. He became a leper 
 about two years ago. He said he was in the habit of 
 reading the Bible himself, but he did not like reading it 
 to the others, as the priests would be angry with him. 
 Though in a native state this leper hospital belongs to the 
 British Government. Mr. Bishop, of Trichur, after having 
 paid a visit to this place, says : " There is plenty of room 
 for more patients if only more funds were granted. There 
 are many lepers," he adds, " in Ernakulam and Pallypuram 
 itself who should be sent there." According to the last 
 census report there were 148 lepers in native Cochin. The 
 following is an extract from Mr. Bishop's diary on that 
 occasion : " Visited the Lazaretto, which is under the 
 British Government ; a hospital assistant kindly showed us 
 over the building. There were thirty-nine lepers, two in 
 each room. The charity is a trust, and costs 5,000 rupees 
 per annum. Each patient has two and a half annas per
 
 38 INDIAN HOSPITALITY. 
 
 day for food, and two suits of clothes every year. Their 
 wounds are carefully dressed. They seemed delighted to 
 hear the gospel, and received with great joy a copy of the 
 New Testament." 
 
 I was told that the Government will not allow more than 
 thirty-four inmates, as the funds will not admit of more 
 being supported. There must, I think, be some mistake 
 here, as thirty-four inmates could never cost so much as 
 5,000 rupees a year, unless there was fearful waste somewhere. 
 I saw the usual sad, sad sights that are never absent from 
 these leper asylums, but was especially struck by a young 
 leprous mother, with a dear, bright little baby in her arms. 
 Surely this poor child must be drinking in poison every day ! 
 
 After leaving Pallypuram I had a delightful sail on 
 the beautiful Backwater, in the fresh morning air, the 
 boatmen pulling with as much vigour as if they had only 
 just started, instead of having pulled all night. Between 
 Pallypuram and Cochin the Backwater is very wide, and 
 is beautifully fringed along the sides with cocoanut and 
 Palmyra palms, with every now and then a native village, 
 or a small white church or chapel, peeping out from 
 among the trees. I arrived at Cochin at 10.30 a.m., and 
 proceeded at once in a " push-push " a kind of jinriksha, 
 in which one is pushed along Bath-chair fashion to Mr. 
 Sealey's bungalow. Mr. Sealey is the Director of Public 
 Instruction, and one of the chief European officials. He 
 keeps open house for all European travellers, and in this 
 instance I was the partaker of his kind hospitality (having 
 had an introduction to him from my brother-in-law, Mr. 
 Grahame), though he himself was not at home to act 
 as host ; his native servant, however, was present, and, 
 evidently understanding his master's ways and wishes, 
 spared no pains to make the stranger sahib feel at home. 
 
 Soon after my arrival I was called on by Mr. Johnson, 
 the chaplain, who kindly came again in the afternoon and
 
 THE JEWS OF COCHIN. 39 
 
 took me to see the Jewish quarter. The Jews here are 
 divided into "white" and "black" Jews. The former 
 are a most interesting little colony, being from the original 
 stock, and although they are said to have settled here as 
 far back as the first century indeed they themselves claim 
 to have settled in Cochin immediately after the destruction 
 of the temple by Nebuchadnezzar they have never inter- 
 married with the natives of the country. They are quite 
 fair, many of them having fair or red hair, and blue eyes. 
 They have a synagogue of their own, and observe all the 
 rites and ceremonies which Jews of the present day do. 
 We were allowed to sit for a little in the synagogue. There 
 were two gilt pulpits, one on the ground-floor and one in 
 the gallery, the former being for ordinary occasions, the 
 .latter for festivals. At the back of the pulpit, in the gallery, 
 was a place for the women, who only come on festivals 
 partitioned off with lattice-work. Facing the entrance at 
 the end of the building is a silk curtain (the veil), and 
 behind it the books (rolls) of the law, in cases with gold 
 lids, are kept, in a sort of cupboard. There are seats all 
 round the building, on which the people sit or recline. We 
 were there about 6 p.m. on Friday, and so just at the 
 commencement of the Sabbath-day. One of the rabbis 
 was repeating prayer, which he did with a veil over his 
 face ; he removed it, however, when he read the Scriptures. 
 There were several men and boys ; some mere children, who 
 every now and then repeated the responses aloud. Whenever 
 any of the names of God were mentioned all stood up. 
 
 We were afterwards taken to see a Jewish wedding, which 
 with these people lasts a week, and had the honour of 
 shaking hands with the bride and bridegroom, and the 
 bride's sister. All three were seated on chairs at the end 
 of a long room, the bridegroom on the right, the bride next 
 him, and then her sister. A number of native women were 
 singing, or rather shouting, in Malayalim; the din was
 
 40 ALLEPPEY. 
 
 dreadful. The black Jews live in a separate colony from the 
 white, and have a synagogue of their own. They are generally 
 supposed to be the descendants of native proselytes. 
 
 There is a most interesting cathedral in Cochin, the 
 oldest Christian Church in India, said to have been built 
 by the Portuguese, and afterwards turned into a place of 
 Protestant worship by the Dutch ; it is now used by the 
 British. At present it is closed for repairs, which it sadly 
 needs, as it is almost tumbling in. 
 
 There are some curious customs in this part of the 
 country; for instance, there is a caste called the Nairs, 
 which, while not equal to the Brahman, is yet a high caste ; 
 the reigning family is of it, and by one of the rules of the 
 caste, the inheritance does not descend to the eldest son, 
 but to the eldest nephew on the sister's side. This holds 
 good even for the succession to the throne, so that the 
 eldest of the young princes is nobody. This is probably 
 an outcome of that frightful evil, polyandry, which was 
 once the custom here. 
 
 December n. Leaving Cochin about 8.30 p.m., I spent 
 another night on board my cabin boat, arriving in Alleppey 
 about 4 a.m. to-day; but my boatmen very considerately 
 did not awaken me, and so I did not open my eyes till 
 about 6, when I found my boat in a canal, moored to one 
 side, and on enquiry discovered that we were lying alongside 
 the Church Missionary Society's premises, so that I had 
 nothing to do but step ashore and pass through the church 
 enclosure in order to find myself at the Mission House. 
 After a little Mr. and Mrs. Richards came down and gave 
 me a very hearty welcome, when we had a pleasant chat 
 together over that most unconventional of all Indian meals, 
 chhoti hazri. 
 
 Alleppey is a town of 30,000 inhabitants, on the sea 
 coast, thirty-three miles south of Cochin. Nearly a 
 fourth of the people of this part of the country are
 
 LEPER ASYLUM, ALLEPPEY. 41 
 
 nominal Christians, mostly of the Syrian Church, and the 
 London and Church Missionary Societies ; there are also 
 many Roman Catholics. There being so many different sects 
 of professing Christians (the Syrian Christians are now very 
 much split up amongst themselves) makes it all the more 
 difficult for purely Protestant missions to make headway 
 against the heathen, yet God has abundantly blessed the 
 labours of the London and the Church Missionary Societies. 
 
 Mr. and Mrs. Richards, of the latter society, have very 
 interesting schools for boys and girls. On visiting the girls, 
 I found them writing their copies on dried leaves of the 
 palmyra tree; each child has several strips of these leaves 
 fastened together by a piece of string, and writes on them, 
 in a most ingenious manner, with a sharp-pointed iron style. 
 
 I was astonished at the enormous ear appendages you 
 cannot call them ear rings, nor ear ornaments some of the 
 women and children wear. I took from the ear of one 
 child a piece of wood, which I have now in my possession, 
 and which measures three inches and a half in circum- 
 ference, is two inches and a half long, and weighs one ounce ; 
 but this was only used to enlarge the hole in the ear, so as 
 to admit of a still larger piece of wood further on ! I have 
 one of these ornaments (?), painted black and red, which 
 weighs one ounce, and is seven inches and a half in circum- 
 ference, that being the size of the hole in the lobe of the ear ! 
 
 December 13. To-day I visited the Leper Asylum, or 
 rather " charity shed," with Dr. Poonen and Mr. Richards ; 
 it is some little distance from the town, and, like every 
 place in Alleppey, stands on fine white sand so white and 
 fine is it that it gives one the idea of riding through snow, 
 and at every step my pony's feet sank deeply. The lepers 
 occupy one long shed made of matting and bamboo ; there 
 is no attempt at flooring, the poor sufferers lying on the 
 sand in all their sores. There were about fifty people 
 altogether, of whom fourteen were lepers. There were some
 
 42 THE COLD SEASON, ALLEPPEY. 
 
 truly horrible sights sights such as need not be were the 
 poor creatures but in a clean place, on good floors, and 
 using some of the ordinary alleviations. There is great 
 need for some proper place being built for these poor 
 people, and I do earnestly hope that Mr. Richards may 
 soon be able to erect the building that he has set his heart 
 upon. The Mission to Lepers in India has already 
 promised a grant of 750 rupees towards this object. The 
 Rajah of Travancore has given 500 rupees, and a few friends 
 in India have promised other sums, so that we may hope soon 
 to have an asylum. The lepers will then have to be separated 
 from the other sick, and for the future kept to themselves. 
 
 The Rev. F. E. Wigram, Hon. Sec. C. M. S., visited 
 these poor lepers when passing through Alleppey, and was 
 so struck by their misery that he at once offered a donation 
 towards the building of an asylum for them. The Mission 
 to Lepers in India supports a catechist, under Mr. Richards, 
 whose business it is to teach the lepers and other inmates 
 the Word of God. This is but one of many places where 
 we shall have to increase our work very largely. 
 
 I have enjoyed my visit here very much, but find the 
 climate trying, and yet this is the best season ; this is their 
 cold season, and the glass has not once been below 80; even 
 now one can wear nothing but the thinnest of clothes, and 
 it has been so damp during my stay that one had to change 
 several times during the day. In the evening all the 
 Europeans in the station a very small company usually 
 assemble on the pier and promenade for a little in order to 
 get the refreshing sea breeze which blows very regularly. I 
 was to have left this in two days, by the B.I.S.N. Co.'s 
 steamer Khandala, for Bombay direct, and even had my 
 passage engaged, but she is so late that I have had my 
 ticket changed, and am going round Cape Comorin 
 instead, as far as Tuticorin, on the east coast, where I 
 hope to take train for Madras, and thence to Bombay.
 
 CATAMARANS, KAL1CHAL. 43 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 JOURNEY TO BOMBAY AND JABALPORE 
 ALLAHABAD AND PURULIA. 
 
 December 16. Left Alleppey at 5.10 p.m., in the B. I. S. N. 
 steamer Ethiopia, and after a quiet night anchored off 
 Kalichal, close to Cape Comorin. Here we spent two days 
 taking in jagra, a kind of sugar, obtained from the palmyra 
 palm, which abounds on this coast. It is a wonderful sight 
 here in the early morning to see the hundreds of cata- 
 marans the native fishing-boat, made from the single stem 
 of a tree all round fishing. Each boat contains one or 
 two natives, the latter being innocent of any clothing other 
 than a rag tied round the loins. 
 
 On December 18 we left Kalichal at 3.40 p.m., and at 
 6 p.m. rounded Cape Comorin. Arrived next morning off 
 Tuticorin, and went on shore in a cargo-boat, which was 
 anything but pleasant, as there was a stiff breeze on, and 
 the boat was as full as ever it could hold of great bales 
 of goods. It took us just an hour to sail in. 
 
 Tuticorin is one of the termini of the South Indian 
 Railway, the other being Tinnevelly. Left Tuticorin by 
 mail train at noon, and travelling by Madura, Trichinopoly, 
 Cuddalore, Chingleput, and Arconum, arrived at Bombay 
 at 11.15 a.m. on Wednesday, the 22nd, whence, after 
 spending a few hours, I again started at 6.30 p.m. for 
 Jabalpore, where I arrived at 9.50 p.m. on the 23rd, having 
 been four days and four nights in the train, the distance 
 being 2043 miles. On arrival at Jabalpore, I was met by
 
 44 C, M. S., JABALPORE. 
 
 the C. M. S. bullock-cart, with a kind note from Mr. Ellwood, 
 the missionary. It was such a luxury to sleep in a bed 
 once more, after having spent four nights in the train ! This 
 is an exceedingly pretty station ; the foliage is especially 
 fine, and there are the loveliest bamboos that I have ever 
 seen. The view from the C. M. S. mission compound is 
 very good indeed. I called upon the ladies of the 
 C. E. Z. M. S., Miss Brand and the Misses Deauble. Some 
 idea of the work of these ladies will be gathered when I 
 say that they visit in about eighty zenanas, having in them 
 157 pupils; and that they have seven schools, their work 
 being carried on in three languages Urdu, Hindi, and 
 Bengali. 
 
 Mr. Ellwood took me to see their new native church and 
 the boys' school, and introduced me to David Turner, a 
 blind man and native Christian. He is an earnest Christian 
 worker, and is looking forward to the time when, as he said to 
 me himself, he "shall see the King in His beauty." This 
 he said to me on my having remarked to him, " Well, never 
 mind, brother; you will see in heaven." Mr. Ellwood tells 
 me that this man is greatly respected by all who know him, 
 and that he speaks to all classes about the Saviour. This 
 being Christmas-eve, I had the pleasure of meeting with 
 many of the native Christians at the mission-house, where 
 they had assembled to exchange greetings and practice 
 over the Christmas hymns. There are some fine types 
 of Christians amongst the natives here some Brahman 
 converts. We are constantly told that none but the lowest 
 class of the people are becoming Christians; but I un- 
 hesitatingly deny it. It is quite true in India, as it was true 
 in Paul's time, " Not many wise men" after the flesh, not 
 many mighty, not many noble, are called;" but yet there 
 are not a few from the very best families, as there are in 
 our own country, who are following the Saviour. To this I 
 can testify from my own personal knowledge. There is
 
 THE MISSIONS, ALLAHABAD. 45 
 
 one such here, who is working as an honorary labourer for 
 the Master whom he loves. In Allahabad, my next 
 stopping -place, I was introduced to a very interesting 
 convert from heathenism an old man, who had been 
 converted after he was sixty, a fine trophy, of whose con- 
 version Mr. Hooper, of the C. M. S. Divinity School, had 
 been the instrument. 
 
 I arrived in Allahabad this morning (December 25), just 
 in time to take part in the Christmas morning service of 
 the Divinity School, of which Mr. Hooper, a scholarly 
 man and devoted missionary, who has been twenty-six 
 years in India, is the head ; and had the great privilege of 
 partaking of the Communion with the native brethren, the 
 service being conducted in Hindi by Mr. Hooper. Alla- 
 habad is a place of great missionary activity. Besides the 
 C. M. S., the American Presbyterian Mission, the Baptist 
 Missionary Society, the American Episcopal Methodist 
 Mission, and the Indian Female Normal School Society are 
 all represented. I called upon Messrs. Lucas and Forman, 
 of the A. P. M., and went with the former to visit the 
 Leper Asylum. On our way out we had to cross the river 
 Jumna, and, because of having a conveyance, had to pay 
 one rupee toll each way, an enormous sum, I thought. 
 
 After we had crossed the river, and had gone a little way, 
 we were passed by a Mahommedan gentleman driving in a 
 very high dog-cart. He was a good deal of a fop, and 
 looked at us, in our insignificant teka-gari, in a high and 
 mighty way, as he flew by us at a tremendous pace. But 
 he had barely gone past when our trap was brought to 
 a stand. We could not make out what had happened, and 
 so got out, when, to our astonishment, we found the dog-cart 
 turned upside down and smashed, the harness broken in 
 several places, the horse all covered with dust, and having 
 received several bruises. The Mahommedan himself was 
 limping about, he too covered with dust, and his trousers
 
 46 PRIDE GOES BEFORE A FALL. 
 
 on one side split from the hip down ; while the poor 
 sais (groom) was sitting in the middle of the road quite 
 dazed. He was evidently the most hurt ; I think he had 
 fallen on his head. It appeared that immediately after 
 dashing past our humble conveyance they had come upon 
 a drove of bullocks, and had driven right against one of 
 them, with the disastrous results which we have seen. It 
 was most amusing to hear and see the poor crest-fallen 
 man still endeavouring to keep up appearances. To the 
 poor sais, who did not seem at all able to take in the 
 situation, or to know whether he was sitting upon the 
 ground or the ground sitting upon him, he said, in most 
 terrible tones, "Khabardar! utho ! hoshyar raho !" ("Take 
 care ! get up ! pull yourself together !") To the men with 
 the bullocks he said, "Sab ko jane do, siwae tis bail ke, 
 jisse dhakka laga, wuh police men jaega" ("Let all the 
 bullocks go except that one which knocked against the 
 dog-cart ; he is to go to the police office "). And again to 
 his sais, but about his horse, he said, " Aj, panch baje, yih 
 ghora mere pas le-ao, main use goli marunga " (" To-day, at 
 five o'clock, bring this horse to me; I shall shoot him.") It 
 did not appear why the poor horse was to be kept in the 
 agony of suspense till five o'clock. Altogether it was a 
 most ludicrous illustration of " Pride goeth before a fall." 
 
 The Leper Asylum is an institution kept up by the 
 District Charitable Association, but superintended by the 
 American Presbyterian Missionaries, who visit the inmates, 
 and hold regular services for them. There are at present 
 twenty inmates, of whom nineteen are men. There is a 
 Chinese leper here who has been baptized by Mr. Lucas ; 
 he came to India about seven years ago as a ship's carpenter. 
 A very interesting character here is a Kaith (good caste) 
 from Benares. He reads the Ramayan (one of the two great 
 epic poems of India, its subject-matter is the history of 
 Ram), and is now reading Christian books. He is a pious,
 
 LEPERS, ALLAHABAD. 47 
 
 enquiring man, and likely to become a Christian ; and 
 should he do so, he will be but one of many who have had 
 to thank God that they became lepers, as it was that which 
 cut them off from their own co-religionists, and brought 
 them in contact with the servants of Jesus, and so with 
 Jesus Himself. "Now we believe, not because of thy 
 saying ; for we have heard Him ourselves, and know that 
 this is indeed the Christ, the Saviour of the world." What 
 a testimony to the constraining love of Christ, that His 
 servants are, like Himself, willing to spend and be spent 
 amongst these poor outcasts ! And what an influence for 
 good it must be amongst the heathen ! I myself have had 
 natives say to me, in speaking of Christians working 
 amongst the lepers, "Yes, sahib, that isflun" (fun, meritor- 
 ious work). 
 
 The Indian Female Normal School here, under Miss 
 Kaehlar, and her assistant, Miss James, is doing a good 
 work in training Eurasian and native girls to be zenana 
 teachers. This is supplying a felt want, as there is at present 
 a great demand for such agents. Miss Kaehlar and her 
 girls visit in zenanas, teach in villages, and have a class for 
 beggars every Thursday. Of this last effort Miss Kaehlar 
 says, " I have about forty men and women a wonderful 
 sight to behold. I wish some friends at home, who have 
 never seen Indian beggars, could see this collection of rags 
 and deformities. Hardly human, one feels inclined to say, 
 till the thought comes all the more forcibly Christ died 
 for them." Miss Kaehlar has a native servant who preaches 
 in the Bazaar on his way home from Church on Sundays, 
 and who finds time to prepare his addresses carefully. 
 Such voluntary workers show more than anything else that 
 Christianity is becoming a power in India. 
 
 In the evening the Hoopers and I went to dine with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Knox of the Civil Service : he is Legal 
 Remembrancer for the North-west Provinces. We had a
 
 48 THE MAG MELA. 
 
 most delightful evening, and it looked quite like Christmas, 
 as we were able to have doors and windows shut, curtains 
 drawn, and a bright fire burning on the hearth, so different 
 from what I had experienced but nine days before in 
 Alleppey. Before separating for the evening we all knelt 
 together in family worship, and thus closed a very happy 
 Christmas-day. 
 
 Allahabad (the city of Allah), the capital of the North- 
 west Provinces, a city of 150,000 inhabitants, is a deeply- 
 interesting place. It is looked upon by the Hindus 
 as most sacred, being built at the junction of the two 
 rivers Ganges and Jumna. Here every January the great 
 fair called the Mag mela* is held at the full moon, and is 
 attended by about a quarter of a million of pilgrims, who 
 bathe at the Prayag, or confluence of the waters. 
 
 December 27. Left Allahabad at 8.20 a.m., and travelling 
 by Mogul Sarai, Patna, and Mokameh, arrived at Sitaram- 
 pore about midnight, when I had to leave the main line and 
 take a small branch line for Barakar, so called from the 
 
 * With regard to this rnela we find the following astounding and 
 painful intelligence in the Indian Witness of the nth February, 1888: 
 
 " During the mela at the junction of the Ganges and Jumna this 
 year, about four hundred Faqirs, entirely naked, marched on two 
 different occasions in procession to the bathing-place. Thousands of 
 Hindus, men and women, lined the road to see them, some to worship 
 them. An English officer on an elephant preceded the procession to 
 clear the road and keep order. It was a sad and disgraceful sight. 
 The Government is surely strong enough to put an end to such 
 indecency even though it call itself Hinduism. By sending a European 
 officer of the rank of Joint Magistrate to accompany such a procession, 
 the Government upholds that which it punishes as a penal offence 
 elsewhere. It is to countenance that which educated Hindus are 
 ashamed to recognize as a part of their religion. 
 
 " The presence of an English officer heading the procession, gives an 
 importance and tclat to these naked Faqirs they would not otherwise 
 have. At any rate would it not be better to send a Hindu to represent 
 the Government on such an occasion, rather than force an Englishman, 
 and a Christian, to head the indecents ? "
 
 TRAVELLING DIFFICULTIES. 49 
 
 river of that name. It is one of the richest coal beds in 
 India. My train was not to start for two hours ; but as it 
 was already made up and drawn up at the platform, I took 
 possession of one of the carriages and went to sleep, and 
 did not know we had moved till after we had started some 
 time, when I dozed off again, and soon found that the train 
 was drawing up at the Barakar station. It was 3.15 a.m., 
 and still dark ; and as the station was small and ill-lighted, 
 and there was scarcely a soul to be seen, and I was feeling 
 very tired, I was nonplussed to know what to do. How- 
 ever, after a time a man appeared with a note, and said 
 that he had been sent by Mr. Uffmann, the missionary at 
 Purulia, to arrange for my conveyance thither. He told 
 me that I could not have " bearers " till seven in the morn- 
 ing, as the Bara Sahib (chief official of the district) had 
 arrived before me, and had gone off with my men. Think- 
 ing there must be some trickery in this, I put on my most 
 authoritative tone, and told him that, men or no men, he 
 must go and bring me my conveyance. 
 
 Off he went, and in a little while returned with a palki in a 
 bullock cart, but no men !* I then became resigned to my 
 fate, and told him to take me to the travellers' bungalow. So 
 putting my things into the palki and on the cart, he led the 
 way, and I followed in the dark. In about half an hour we 
 arrived at the bungalow, where I immediately threw myself on 
 the bed and slept wearily till seven o'clock, when I was called. 
 The men had at last arrived, so, after chhoti hazri, I started 
 for Purulia. I had eight men to carry me, and three for 
 my baggage, and thus travelled all day, changing my eleven 
 men at every stage. The first few miles, travelling through 
 the coal country, was very unpleasant, as we were con- 
 tinually passing strings of carts laden with coal and coal 
 dust, and clouds of black dust surrounded us. After 
 
 * Somewhat a parallel case would be a cab on a dray ! 
 D
 
 SO AFTERNOON TEA. 
 
 a while we arrived at the Damodar river, over which we 
 had to be ferried. 
 
 At seven in the evening, just as I was beginning to 
 feel very weary of the journey, and while we were pass- 
 ing one of the roadside rest-houses, a native stepped up 
 to the side of my palki and handed me a note. This 
 was from Mr. Uffmann, the missionary, to tell me that 
 Mrs. Uffmann had very kindly sent out her cook with some 
 tea and cake and other refreshments, and that if I would 
 stop at the rest-house I should find all ready for me. 
 This I gladly did, and after a good strong cup of tea felt 
 better able for the fatigue of the road. At midnight I 
 arrived in Purulia, and got a most hearty welcome from 
 Mr. and Mrs. Uffmann, who, though they had retired for 
 the night, both got up to receive me. 
 
 Purulia is the chief town of the Manbhoom district of 
 Chutia Nagpore, and has about 6000 inhabitants. It is 
 one of the stations of Gossner's Mission, and is in charge 
 of the Rev. P. H. Uffmann, who has been labouring for 
 more than twenty years. I have been visiting some of the 
 Christian villages with Mr. Uffmann, and have been much 
 encouraged by what 1 have seen. The people are living in 
 their own villages in a natural way, earning their own living 
 by farming and so forth. The villages are neat and clean, 
 and are pictures of comfort. When you go into a village, 
 men, women, and children come forward and greet you 
 with " Isa sahai" (Jesus be your Helper), shaking your 
 hand at the same time. They are just like the other 
 natives, except cleaner and happier-looking, and they wear 
 no heathenish ornaments. These little villages are 
 scattered all over the district, giving Mr. Uffmann about 
 800 souls to look after; and there would be many more, 
 but that numbers go away to work on the tea gardens of 
 Assam. There is no "hothouse system" here, but a 
 natural growth of the Christian Church. The schools are
 
 PURULIA. 51 
 
 all elementary, just giving the people education enough for 
 their simple village life. This is what one might call ideal 
 mission work ; and yet it is not at all ideal, but very real. 
 I was introduced to an old man who had been a fakir and 
 a priest in an outlying village at one time. The villagers 
 sent him to Purulia to " find the way of life ; " and he has 
 found it, and will now, it is earnestly hoped, bring the 
 whole of his village to Christ. His wife has been baptized 
 with him, but so far seems only to be a nominal Christian, 
 and is, I fear, likely to give him trouble. There is a native 
 Christian mahajan (grain merchant) here who is carrying on 
 his business most successfully, and retaining his Christian 
 character. Mr. Uffmann tells me that this man is most 
 kind and liberal to the poor Christians. 
 
 There are many lepers in this district, and at one time 
 there was a district officer who was very kind to them. 
 He had huts built for them, and collected money to supply 
 them with clothes and food ; but when he left the station 
 he was replaced by a man who did not care to have them 
 so near, and so burnt their huts and drove them away, 
 sending those who were not able to walk away on carts to 
 their former homes ; but as many of them had no homes 
 to go to, those who could manage it crawled back again 
 and died under the very trees where their little huts had 
 been. Mr. Uffmann has for a long time wished to have 
 an asylum for the lepers at present in his district, and the 
 Mission to Lepers in India has agreed to build one, and 
 put it under his charge. The committee of Gossner's 
 Mission in Berlin have kindly consented to this arrange- 
 ment, and are sending out another missionary to Purulia 
 to assist Mr. Uffmann, who has already quite as much 
 work as he is able to attend to. The starting of this 
 asylum will, it is estimated, cost ;ioo, and there will be 
 a probable annual expenditure of another ;ioo. All this 
 will be a heavy additional expenditure to the Mission to
 
 52 PROJECTED LEPER ASYLUM. 
 
 Lepers, but this is but one of many instances where we 
 feel bound to go forward and look to God to put it into 
 the hearts of His people to supply our need. Hitherto 
 He has provided for all our wants, and has supplied the 
 means as we took up each new place ; and so we go 
 forward seeking to be led by Him all the way. Mr. Uffmann 
 and I have been out fixing upon a site for the new asylum, 
 and we have hit upon one in every way most suitable, if it 
 can be obtained. 
 
 There are many Santals in this district, but the chief 
 work is going on amongst the Munddris and Uraos. 
 Before leaving Purulia I visited one of Mr. Uffmann's 
 native pastors, who was in great trouble. A little more 
 than a fortnight ago his little boy was playing with some 
 seeds, one of which he managed to get stuffed into 
 his ear. He was taken to the hospital, but the doctor 
 was u'nable to get it out. After that a native doctor 
 undertook to perform an operation, the result of which was 
 that the poor child was put to dreadful pain, and the seed, 
 instead of being got out, was driven in further, and is 
 slowly killing him. What a field there is here for a medical 
 missionary !
 
 INTELLIGENT STEEDS. 53 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 RANCH I AND LOHARDUGGA. 
 
 December 30. Left Purulia at noon in a bamboo cart 
 (a kind of light dog-cart), drawn, or rather drawn and 
 pushed, by six men. This is a very common mode of 
 conveyance in this part of the country, the number of men 
 in each case depending on the weight to be drawn and the 
 roughness or otherwise of the roads. Two or three light 
 bamboos are fastened across the shafts, which the men lay 
 hold of with their hands, and placing their chests against 
 them, they run along at a fine rate, sometimes travelling as 
 fast as five miles in the hour. The average rate, however, 
 over a long journey would be three miles per hour. The 
 stages run from seven to ten miles, according to the state 
 of the roads to be travelled, and at each fresh stage you 
 get a fresh set of men. Your men divide themselves 
 according to their own pleasure, some pushing from behind 
 and others going in front. Sometimes the front men will 
 raise the shafts high above their heads, and at others will 
 lay the bamboos over the backs of their necks, working 
 like oxen. These wild, unsophisticated men of the jungle 
 seem to enjoy the work, and will sometimes run you 
 down a hill or along the level with a ringing whoop 
 and hurrah ; and unless you are of a very morose turn 
 indeed, or of a very nervous temperament, you cannot 
 help thoroughly entering into their fun and enjoying it. 
 After a very pleasant ride of nearly eight hours I arrived 
 at a place called Toolin, where I put up for the night at
 
 54 "ISA SAHAI." 
 
 the Dak bangalow. Left Toolin at 6 a.m. on December 
 3ist, and travelled all day, except for an hour in the middle, 
 when I halted for refreshment. I arrived at Ranchi at 
 6 p.m. I had eight men for ten miles and twelve for 
 twenty-six, the road being very rough and heavy. The 
 twelve men however drew me for twenty-six miles straight 
 on end, their own choice. I was wonderfully little tired, 
 considering that I had come seventy-four miles since leaving 
 Purulia, sitting bolt upright all the way. At Yohna, where 
 I rested for refreshment, I met with a native policeman, 
 who procured me water and firewood, and helped me to 
 boil my kettle. When leaving I went over to my new- 
 found friend to thank him and say "Good-bye," when to 
 my surprise he advanced to meet me, holding out his hand, 
 and saying, " Isa sahai." The reader can imagine my 
 joy at thus coming across a brother in the Lord in this 
 unexpected way. He had, in the spirit of his Master, 
 "used hospitality without grudging." This trifling incident 
 gave me a good idea of the way in which Christianity is 
 little by little reaching all classes of the population in 
 India. And what a grand proof it is of the truth of the 
 gospel, that wherever one goes one finds the same results 
 from its reception ! 
 
 Ranchi is the chief and central station of Gossner's 
 Evangelical Lutheran Mission, which may be considered one 
 of the most prosperous missions in India. This mission 
 was originally known as Pastor Gossner's, so-called after 
 its founder; indeed, it is still known by that name. The 
 following is quoted from a short account of it in Badley's 
 Indian Missionary Directory : " The Society was organized 
 in 1842. In 1844 it sent to India four missionaries the 
 Rev. Messrs. Schatz, Batsch, Brandt, and Fancke. Arriving 
 at Calcutta, they sought the advice of the missionaries 
 there, as to the most eligible field of labour, and were 
 advised to proceed to Chota Nagpore, and open a mission
 
 EARLY DAYS OF GOSSNER'S MISSION. 55 
 
 among the Kols. They reached Ranchi early in 1845, and 
 began missionary operations, labouring with their own 
 hands, and preaching to the people. They laboured 
 patiently five years without seeing any return. On the 
 9th of June, 1850, the firstfruits were gathered four men 
 from among the Kols receiving baptism. Other converts 
 were gained, and the work began to spread from place 
 to place. In 1848 a station had been formed at Lohardugga, 
 in 1850 another was opened at Govindpore, and in 1853 a 
 third at Hazaribagh. Year by year the churches increased 
 in number, until, at the time of the breaking out of the 
 Mutiny, they numbered upwards of 700 souls. Along 
 with other Europeans the missionaries were driven from 
 their homes by the rebels. The bungalows at Ranchi were 
 set on fire. The mission-houses, being tiled, were stripped 
 of their furniture and books. The church was gutted, and 
 the organ pulled to pieces. Cannon-balls were fired into the 
 tower, but disfigured without harming it. The converts 
 were hunted from their houses, and lost all their property 
 of every kind. All their village chapels were unroofed and 
 stripped. At last, when nothing else remained, a price 
 was set upon the converts' heads. A few were killed; and 
 their persecutors had seriously planned to exterminate the 
 Christians from the province, when the English soldiers 
 marched up from Hazaribagh, put an end to disorder, 
 and captured the rebel delinquents. The missionaries 
 speedily returned; work was resumed; the congregations 
 were regathered ; and a strange measure of prosperity was 
 henceforth granted." The converts now number 33,000, 
 and these are to be found living in their own villages, and 
 scattered all over the different districts of the mission. 
 
 At Ranchi I was the guest of Mr. Onasch, the senior 
 missionary, to whose kindness I owe a very great deal 
 of the comfort with which I was able to make my journeys 
 in Chutia Nagpore. I could have spent a month in Ranchi
 
 56 THE CHRISTIAN SARAL 
 
 with the greatest delight, there is so much to see, and 
 so much to hear. There is a Christian sarai here, on 
 the mission premises, which seems to be a great power for 
 good. It is a large square courtyard with open rooms 
 all round, in which those Christians are allowed to put up 
 who may be in from the district on business. They get 
 their firewood free ; and the only condition of admittance 
 is, that they should attend morning and evening worship on 
 the compound. There were seventy putting up in the 
 sarai the day I saw it. Occasionally heathen people stop 
 there too. The idea is, I think, a capital one, as it helps 
 to keep the missionaries in touch with their native 
 converts in a way which otherwise it would be very diffi- 
 cult to accomplish. It is a plan well worthy of adoption 
 by other societies having large numbers of scattered 
 converts. 
 
 Mr. Onasch and Mr. Gemsky (the latter was in 
 from the station of Govindpore) very kindly took me 
 round the place. We visited the printing press, the boys' 
 and girls' schools, and other things. I was particularly 
 struck by the bright little Urao girls. They answered 
 so intelligently when I questioned them, while their part 
 singing was beautiful. The Kolhs are naturally very 
 musical, their ear being, as a rule, very good. The girls 
 sang softly and sweetly, and some of them sang alone 
 for me. They were being taught by a native, who seemed 
 to have a great deal of musical talent. He had just picked 
 up a new thing himself (I suppose by ear), and was putting 
 it to music for his girls. They were being taught on the 
 Tonic Sol-fa system. I just wish some of our friends 
 at home could have heard that singing; it would put 
 to shame a great deal of the school " bawling " one hears. 
 
 I was greatly struck by the practical work being done by 
 these German missionaries. This practical character enters 
 into everything. The children were being taught in an
 
 PRACTICAL WORK. 57 
 
 elementary and practical way, suitable to their village life. 
 For instance, the girls were given a sum. One stated it 
 on the blackboard, another worked it out in her head 
 and gave the answer; and then both had a pair of scales 
 and weights with some sand, and before the others they 
 weighed out the amount which, according to the sum, they 
 were entitled to. In the same practical way the girls were 
 taught to cook, and to do other things which would be 
 useful to them as the wives of country villagers. These 
 missionaries are planting out pastors and teachers among 
 the villages, while they themselves are surrounded by 
 1150 converts, all earning their own livelihood. At times 
 the influx of converts has been so great that on one 
 occasion Mr. Onasch baptized "till his arm ached." I 
 believe about 500 were baptized on that one day. One 
 can scarcely hope that all these people had " passed from 
 death unto life." But what a blessing to think they have 
 renounced for ever their awful devil worship, have come 
 from under that terrible thraldom, and have placed them- 
 selves and their children under Christian instruction ! 
 
 And in this way, I think, one must regard a great deal of 
 the wonderful work that is at present going on amongst the 
 low castes in the Panjab and other places, such as that of 
 the American United Presbyterians, and the Church of 
 Scotland Mission in Sealkote, and Mr. Knowles' work in 
 Oudh amongst the Tarus and others. The multitudes now 
 being baptised do not at the time all come to "a saving 
 knowledge of the truth," but they are anxious to renounce 
 their own abominable systems, and place themselves and 
 their children within the visible fold of Christ's flock ; and 
 who are we that we should say them nay ? Should we not 
 rather rejoice at this wonderful movement, and extend to 
 them the right hand of fellowship ? 
 
 I was taken to see the Theological Seminary and Boys' 
 Boarding School, and the fine church where about eight
 
 58 LOHARDUGGA. 
 
 hundred of a native congregation meet every Sunday for 
 the worship of the true God ; and yet we are told that 
 missions are a failure ! This church still bears the marks 
 of the Mutiny, but fortunately was not destroyed. There 
 is a large staff of missionaries here, all hard at work : 
 Mr. and Mrs. Beyer, Mr. and Mrs. Bruske, Mr. and Mrs. 
 Betzler, and Mr. and Mrs. Eidness, besides Mr. and Mrs. 
 Onasch, already mentioned. 
 
 The part singing of the boys and young men, under 
 Mr. Bruske's management, was the best thing of the kind 
 I have ever heard in India. It pleased me immensely; 
 their voices were so good, and they were under such 
 complete control. They sang me some selections from 
 Handel's Messiah. 
 
 January i, 1887. Left Ranchi at 7.15 a.m., and, travelling 
 all day, arrived at Lohardugga (forty-eight miles) at 7.40 in 
 the evening, only stopping one hour on the way to have my 
 breakfast under a tree. I was again drawn in a bamboo 
 cart by coolies, and had a most enjoyable day. The 
 scenery was very fine indeed miles upon miles of beautiful 
 park-like tracts, with magnificent trees I have seldom 
 seen finer; it was a continual feast to me all the way. 
 The missionaries at Lohardugga are Mr. and Mrs. Hahn, 
 and Mr. Rieman (the latter only just arrived from home). 
 There are 1,200 converts under Mr. Hahn's immediate 
 care, but none of them a burden to the mission ; nearly 
 all of them are from the Kohls, who are aborigines. It 
 was very refreshing to me to-day to find that I had two 
 Christians amongst my men one among the coolies who 
 were drawing me, and one whom Mr. Hahn had sent out 
 to meet me half way, lest I should require anything on the 
 road. When the latter came up with us he recognized a 
 brother-Christian among my men, and immediately coming 
 over, he held out his hand to him, and said, " Isa 
 sahai." Once to-day, when passing a village, I said to
 
 "EIGHT OR NINE FAMILIES, SAHIB." 59 
 
 one of my coolies, "Are there many Christians in that 
 village?" He answered, without a moment's hesitation, 
 "About eight or nine families, sahib." The Lord has 
 certainly blessed the labours of these dear brethren in a 
 truly wonderful way ; and yet one must not think that they 
 have not had their difficulties and their trials like others. 
 They knew what it was to labour for five years without 
 seeing any return. They knew what it was to be driven 
 from their homes in the Mutiny ; to see all their property 
 destroyed ; and to see their poor converts fleeing from one 
 place to another. While more recently, by an unfortunate 
 schism, they lost at one sweep six of their missionaries 
 and about 4,000 converts ! They have their troubles from 
 without, too ; their field has been entered by the Jesuits, 
 who, we are told, do not hesitate " to steal the sheep of 
 the flock." And they know what it is to see converts, 
 upon whom they had expended great labour, and in whom 
 they had placed the utmost confidence, suddenly turn aside, 
 and return as the " dog to his vomit," or as " the sow that 
 was washed to her wallowing in the mire." Still, over and 
 above all, the Lord has set His seal to the labours of His 
 servants. 
 
 January 2. Lohardugga, Sunday. On my arrival last 
 night I had a most hearty welcome from Mr. and Mrs. 
 Hahn and the Christians here, also from the caretaker of 
 the Asylum. To the latter place we paid an early visit this 
 morning. At the entrance there was an arch of mango 
 leaves, with a white flag on either side, and " Welcome " in 
 the centre. The poor lepers' houses were decorated with 
 evergreens. These houses are whitewashed, and have 
 red-tiled roofs. The whole place had an air of comfort, 
 being clean and bright. I was particularly struck with the 
 comparatively healthy appearance of the inmates. After I 
 had said, " Isa sahai" "May Jesus be your helper" 
 which is the usual salutation here, a woman, the wife of
 
 60 SUKKHU. 
 
 one of the lepers, but who had not herself contracted the 
 disease, came forward with a little vessel of oil, with which 
 she anointed my feet. It was somewhat startling to have 
 oil poured over and even rubbed into one's well-polished 
 boots, and on the ends of one's trousers; but Mr. Hahn 
 tells me it is the greatest honour they can do you. 
 
 I have just returned from the native service, which I 
 enjoyed very much. It was partly liturgical, and the whole 
 congregation made the responses heartily and reverently. 
 The school children sat in front, behind them the adults 
 men on one side, women on the other and behind them 
 again the lepers. Mr. Hahn preached an earnest gospel 
 sermon. It was partly catechetical. Sometimes he would 
 put the question, " Is it not so ? " To which the congrega- 
 tion responded. Again he would address an individual by 
 name, and ask, "What do I say?" In this way he kept up 
 their attention. When the collection was taken a plate was 
 handed for those who had money to give, and a basket for 
 those who had rice the latter was brought by some in 
 little bags ; by others it was tied up in the corner of their 
 chaddars. After the ordinary service came the baptism of 
 two lepers, Sukkhu and Patrus ; a most interesting ceremony 
 to me. Sukkhu is about sixty ; his toes and fingers are all 
 gone; but his poor old face, which is not marred by the 
 disease, had a bright, intelligent smile. He answered well 
 and clearly. At one time he seemed much distressed, 
 having dropped his pice (small coins) which he had brought 
 as an offering, his poor fingerless hands being unable to 
 pick them up. When asked by Mr. Hahn at one part of 
 the service to stand up, he said, " I cannot ; my feet are so 
 bad." However, he did manage it afterwards when the 
 water was being poured upon him, as did also the other 
 poor fellow. Sukkhu was formerly a devil worshipper, and 
 acted as priest. When he became a leper he used all his 
 own charms and incantations to cure himself, but to no
 
 OPENING THE PRAYER-ROOM. 61 
 
 purpose. At one time he made a horse and an elephant of 
 clay, he put saddles on them, and offered them to the devil, 
 saying, "See now, I have given you these good things. 
 Please leave me, and go somewhere else." To-day he was 
 very emphatic about Jesus having shed His blood for him. 
 
 In the afternoon we went to visit one or two lepers, and 
 some others, who were unable to come to the service. Mr. 
 Hahn had prayer and reading with them. We had also an 
 interesting talk with a Mahommedan, who seems really to 
 be thinking about the great question. May the Lord lead 
 him to Himself. At the evening service I gave an address 
 (my first in Hindustani since coming out) on the necessity 
 of the new birth. It has been a happy day, thank God. 
 
 January 3. Monday. Went over the whole place with 
 Mr. Hahn to-day ; first visited the girls' and boys' boarding- 
 schools, and saw the children at their lessons. I was 
 especially pleased with the little girls as they stood together 
 and sang in parts, their bright eyes sparkling in their little 
 polished black faces. When I asked what message they 
 would like to send to the little girls at home, they all with 
 one voice said, "Isa sahai." We afterwards went to the 
 Asylum, saw the children of the lepers in school, and heard 
 them read and sing ; then had a chat with three or four of 
 the lepers. I showed them some Scripture pictures, which 
 I explained, and they were greatly delighted. Poor old 
 Sukkhu looked so bright ; his face lights up when he speaks 
 to you.* 
 
 After a walk with Mr. Hahn we went again to the Asylum 
 to dedicate the new prayer-room, and had a most happy 
 
 * Dear old Sukkhu has since entered into his rest. In speaking of 
 his death, Mr. Hahn says : " In the asylum he became a bright example 
 of an always happy Christian. During his last illness we had much 
 hopes for his recovery ; but when it appeared that the Lord was hasten- 
 ing away with His servant we prayed frequently with him, and old 
 Sukkhu joined us heartily."
 
 62 "DHANYABAD.* 
 
 and interesting time. Mr. Hahn opened with prayer ; we 
 had a hymn, after which a psalm was read, and then I gave 
 the address. I was greatly helped, being able to speak with 
 much more ease than yesterday. Mr. Hahn followed up 
 what I had said. We had another prayer and a verse of a 
 hymn, and so our prayer-room was dedicated. I did so 
 enjoy the service ; they listened most attentively. When 
 we came outside the Mahommedan already referred to came 
 up and said he had an " arz " (petition) to make. We asked 
 what it was. He said that I should take the salaams of the 
 lepers to those kind friends at home, who were doing so 
 much for them here. We have reason to hope that this man 
 is a real seeker after truth ; he seemed a good deal touched. 
 Altogether I have spent a very happy time here. 
 
 January 4. When leaving Lohardugga this morning at 
 8.30 the school children boys and girls assembled at 
 the door, and as I was ready to start sang a hymn beginning, 
 "Jesus go with you." When it was over I said good-bye, 
 and then with a chorus of "Isa sahais" sounding in my 
 ears, after shaking hands with the Christians, I started. 
 Mr. Hahn accompanied me as far as the post-office ; we 
 stopped, however, at the asylum to say good-bye to the 
 poor lepers. They were all expecting me; and when I 
 asked them what message I should take to the friends at 
 home, an old man, a Christian, said, "Dhanyabad" a 
 kind of blessing and thanks in one.
 
 TIGERS ON THE ROAD. 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 HAZARIBAGH, PACHA MB A, AND EBENEZER 
 (SANTALISTAN\ 
 
 AFTER leaving Lohardugga I returned to Ranchi, where I 
 rested a day, and on January 6th left for Singhani 
 (Hazaribagh), another station of Gossner's Mission. 
 Travelled all day in a bamboo cart, drawn by six coolies. 
 The road is very good all the way, but very hilly, and 
 for many miles you travel through jungle infested with tigers 
 and other wild animals. The night before last there was a 
 gentleman travelling on this very road ; he met a tiger, and 
 was deserted by his coolies ; however, the beast went away 
 quietly, and the coolies returned. We met an animal of 
 some sort in the moonlight, which my men insisted was a 
 tiger; but I did not think so, it looked much too small, 
 and was more likely a wolf, or a leopard, but in the dim 
 light one could not be certain; after looking at us for a 
 moment it trotted off into the jungle. Several times lately 
 I have met men who when " salaming " first removed their 
 shoes from their feet, reminding one of the removing of the 
 shoes from off the feet spoken of in Scripture. 
 
 On arrival at Singhani I was very heartily welcomed by 
 Mr. and Mrs. Kiefel, who are very kindly putting me up 
 during my stay. 
 
 Jamiary 7. I was to have continued my journey to-day ; 
 but about two this morning a tremendous thunder-storm 
 came on, and it has been raining heavily ever since, so that 
 the rivers must be very much swollen ; and Mr. Kiefel
 
 64 TEN-INCHES-AND-A-HALF TOO SHORT. 
 
 thought I could not get on to Pachamba, my next 
 stopping-place, till they go down a little. 
 
 January 8. Left Singhani at i p.m., Mr. Kiefel kindly 
 driving me a little beyond the first stage in his own buggy. 
 From there I travelled in a very curious conveyance, a kind 
 of palki gari on two wheels, and specially constructed to be 
 drawn by coolies ; there was a wooden bar across the shafts 
 for pulling, and another bar at the back for pushing ; inside 
 were no seats, but a level floor, on which I spread my 
 bedding, whilst the baggage went on the top. The body 
 of the thing was only 5 feet long, and as my height is 
 5 feet zoj inches, I was obliged to let my legs project xoj- 
 inches through the door, which was at the back, or else 
 double them up that much inside. I have since often 
 wondered why the genius who invented those wonderful 
 vehicles did not make them 6 instead of 5 feet long. 
 Notwithstanding my cramped position, when night came 
 on I managed to sleep between the stages, and arrived at 
 the Free Church of Scotland mission station of Pachamba 
 at 9 a.m. next day, having been just twenty hours on the 
 road. 
 
 I had a very hearty reception from Dr. and Mrs. Dyer, 
 and spent a most quiet and restful Sunday. In the after- 
 noon I addressed the Christian congregation on Faith, 
 speaking in as much Hindi as I could muster; for they 
 understand a little Hindi, but not pure Hindustani ; their 
 own language is Santali, though Santalistan proper does not 
 begin here. 
 
 January 10. After chhoti hazri went with Dr. Dyer to 
 his dispensary, where I had the pleasure of hearing him 
 preach the gospel to his patients, from the story of " the 
 lost sheep ; " after which he engaged in prayer, and then 
 commenced his work, examining each case carefully, and 
 dispensing, &c. He struck me as being very happy in his 
 work ; and when one thinks of it, what happier work could
 
 FREE CHURCH MISSION, PACHAMBA. 65 
 
 there be, following so closely in the Master's footsteps, and 
 bringing relief to soul and body at the same time ? 
 
 There are 360 converts at present in connection with this 
 Mission, which has been established since 1874; there are 
 three European missionaries, Dr. Dyer, Mr. Stevenson, and 
 Mr. Campbell ; there were twenty-three adult baptisms here 
 last year, and Mr. Campbell baptised about thirty in his 
 station of Pokria ; during my visit Mr. Stevenson was away 
 on furlough. The converts are all from the Santals. 
 
 After dinner Dr. Dyer kindly drove me over to the rail- 
 way station of Giridih, about three miles, where I took the 
 train at 9.15 p.m. I arrived at Madhopore junction at n, 
 and changed into the up mail, reaching Burdwan at 3.14 
 next morning. On arrival I lay down in the waiting-room 
 and slept very comfortably till 7. One often grumbles in 
 India at being obliged to carry one's bedding about with 
 one everywhere ; but how grateful one feels on arriving at a 
 railway station, or Dak bangalow, in the small hours of the 
 morning, just to spread one's mattress on the floor, or table, 
 or bed, as the case may be, and rolling oneself up in a 
 blanket, to go off to sleep without any further ado. The 
 mattress that one takes on such occasions must of necessity 
 be very light and narrow ; but I should advise everyone, 
 making an extensive tour in India, to carry everywhere 
 with them a light mattress and pillow, a "rasai," and a pair 
 of good confederate blankets. 
 
 January n. Left Burdwan at u, and arrived at 
 Rampore Haut at 2.30 p.m., where I was met by Mr. 
 Boerresen's servant with a pony and trap ; there was another 
 pony half way on the road, and so I got over the twelve 
 miles of very good road quickly, arriving at Ebenezer, the 
 chief station of the "Indian Home Mission to the Santals," 
 at 4.30. When I came within view of these interesting 
 mission premises, I felt that a dream of my life had been 
 fulfilled. I had for many years wished to see this highly- 
 
 E
 
 66 INDIAN HOME MISSION TO THE SANTALS. 
 
 privileged place, on which the Lord has so signally smiled, 
 and now my wish was being gratified. As I drove up to 
 the mission-house I was greatly struck by the neatness of 
 the whole place, and the great taste displayed in the laying 
 out of the flower-beds and walks, &c. 
 
 The mission staff at present is as follows : Mr., Mrs., 
 and Miss Boerresen, Mr. Skrefsrud, Mr. and Mrs. Muston, 
 and Dr. Huemann. Mr. Boerresen and Mr. Skrefsrud are 
 the originators of the mission, which they started in 1867, 
 and now, after twenty years of faithful service, here is what 
 they say in their twentieth report : 
 
 " We remember our first visit to this place, when we went 
 to an adjoining village called Chitragaria, and asked the 
 chief of it to grant us shelter in his cow-house, in no way a 
 grand place. A cow-house in Europe is a palace when 
 compared with its Santal equivalent. Being refused, we 
 turned to another rich old Santal in the same village, only 
 to be repulsed again. These two men are still alive, but, 
 alas ! as hoary heathen as possible. It would seem as if 
 the gospel had no power whatever over them; but whenever 
 in trouble of any kind they have turned first to us for help, 
 and have invariably been received in a friendly manner and 
 assisted. Our dwelling-place that first night was a small 
 hut, in which the Hindu idol of Durga was just being 
 made. (For the Santals were ready enough to adopt the 
 idolatry of their Hindu neighbours; it was only with the 
 living God that they would have nothing to do.) It was 
 only 10 feet square, with the south side completely open, 
 and affording no shelter from the elements. Such was our 
 entrance into this country. The Santals only gaped at us, 
 and did not know what to make of us, as they had never 
 known Europeans to come among them and live in that 
 way. The remark made by some unfriendly persons ten 
 years later was that we came into the country as vagabonds. 
 Looking only at the surface appearance, nothing truer could
 
 EBENEZER. 67 
 
 be said ; but we praise and thank our Saviour that in our 
 hearts there was a consciousness, not of the vagabond, but 
 of the stranger and pilgrim, hungering for fellow-travellers 
 on the road to Zion. The Lord our God helped us to 
 forget ourselves and all that concerned us entirely, and we 
 rejoice and praise Him that we were not then compelled to 
 abandon this field, as so many were too anxious we should 
 do. He has permitted us to stand fast, and not to give in 
 in any way. The greater the trials and danger, the greater 
 were the strength and refuge vouchsafed to us ; and so the 
 Lord has enabled us to go from strength to strength, 
 and from one victory to another. 
 
 " Now, when we look back on the past twenty years, we 
 can only shout aloud, ' The Lord hath done great things 
 for us ; whereof we are glad.' Calling to mind the many 
 dear Santal Christians who have overcome by the blood of 
 the Lamb, and are now in heaven, we can say it is the 
 truest and greatest joy of all. We may find our Saviour's 
 parable of the kingdom of God being like a grain of 
 mustard -seed in its full exemplification in this work so 
 little and like nothing did it appear when we began. The 
 name of our head station, Ebenezer, was not bestowed 
 thoughtlessly, as for two-and-a-half years before finally 
 settling down we had been searching and making enquiries, 
 both by personally travelling about and by correspondence 
 with others, as to what spot the Lord would have us to 
 remain in and bless us. At the end of the trials and 
 troubles which those two-and-a-half years brought with 
 them, when we found this place we could kneel down and 
 quietly and thankfully ejaculate, ' Hitherto hath the Lord 
 helped us.' " 
 
 One year after the opening of the mission they were 
 rewarded with three converts, and they have now over 
 4000 ; while the adult baptisms last year alone amounted 
 to 258. The above are communicants; but the nominal
 
 68 CHRISTIAN COLONY, ASSAM. 
 
 Christians, including the children, would number something 
 like 10,000. The converts are not all living around 
 Ebenezer, but are scattered over the district in some 200 
 different villages ; while, over and above these 4000, there 
 are about 700 more who have emigrated to Assam, where 
 they have started a Christian colony.* 
 
 January 12. I have had a most delightful morning, 
 Mr. Boerresen taking me all round the place. First we 
 visited the godams (workshops) and farmyard ; then the 
 brick and lime kilns ; then the two beautiful reservoirs (an 
 outcome of the famine relief works) ; the tree under which 
 the baptisms take place, beside one of the reservoirs ; the 
 vegetable gardens and pleasure grounds (kept so neatly by 
 the school children) ; the seminary, the centre of which 
 is used as a church ; the printing press and bookbindery ; 
 the boys' school (80 Christian boys), girls' school (136 
 Christian girls), the Christmas-house, &c. 
 
 The boys and girls are all taught to work as they would 
 have to do, and as they will have to do, in their own 
 villages. They work in the fields, sow and reap, &c. ; and 
 the girls are taught to do the most menial work, such 
 as they will have to in their own village homes. I saw 
 Christian carpenters, Christian servants, Christians making 
 bricks, Christians binding books, Christians at all sorts 
 of employments. Gradually the whole place is becoming 
 Christian. At first heathen had to be employed, but 
 now they are all giving way to Christians. The whole face 
 of the country is becoming changed, the heathen now, 
 for very shame sake, giving up many of their heathenish 
 customs. Heathen women are often ashamed to be seen 
 wearing the extravagant ornaments on their feet and legs 
 which they used to wear. Some of these anklets weigh 
 
 * This colony has been wonderfully successful, so far as it has gone. 
 An interesting account of it may be had in pamphlet form from 
 Dr. Graham, Chamberlain Road, Edinburgh.
 
 THE LIQUOR TRAFFIC. 69 
 
 as much as three pounds each. Heathen men are ashamed 
 to be seen drunk, whereas they used to glory in it. They 
 even ask pardon of the Christians for such conduct. The 
 great heathenish drinking festivals, which used to be the 
 most terrible orgies, and would last for weeks at a time, are 
 now comparatively tame affairs, and do not last so many 
 days. Owing to the strenuous efforts of the missionaries, 
 the great majority of the licensed liquor-shops, which were 
 fast ruining these simple-minded aborigines, have been 
 done away with. I find the following interesting account 
 of how this was brought about in a small pamphlet, at 
 present lying before me : 
 
 "The next evil to be got rid of was the liquor traffic, 
 and here again the Hindoos were the obstacle. They 
 owned the liquor-shops, and it was their interest to 
 keep the people enslaved. Fortunately, however, Chris- 
 tianity was proving too much for them. While no pledge 
 was asked from the native converts, abstinence became 
 with them an acknowledged rule. The missionaries only 
 drank water, and the Christians followed their example. 
 The evils of drink were also so apparent, that its avoidance 
 seemed to become a natural consequence of their change 
 of life. 
 
 "The Government were communicated with. They re- 
 cognized the evil, and were anxious to remedy it ; but 
 the question was, What could they do? After much 
 conversation and correspondence, they agreed that if the 
 Santals expressed a general desire to have the traffic 
 suppressed they would comply. The missionaries now 
 turned to the people heathen as well as Christian. The 
 women were the chief sufferers, and they were first appealed 
 to. They were brought together to the number of 3000, 
 including the wives of many chiefs. The matter was 
 explained to them, and they were told its solution was 
 in their hands. The result was, they determined to use
 
 70 MR. SKREFSRUD. 
 
 their influence with their husbands ; and that proved so 
 effectual that a palaver of chiefs was assembled, numbering 
 about 300, at which a petition to Government was signed, 
 asking for the closing of all the liquor-shops in the entire 
 mission district. That comprised an area of seventy miles 
 square, and contained a population of a million and a 
 quarter. The Government were true to their word. The 
 licenses were withdrawn, the Hindoo drink-sellers left 
 the district, and a great hindrance to the elevation of the 
 people was thus removed." 
 
 Christianity is getting a powerful hold upon the country ; 
 many who were for years bitter opponents are now friends. 
 Many Christian books have been printed in the language 
 of the people, and portions of the Word of God, besides 
 hymn-books, catechisms, etc. Mr. Skrefsrud has published 
 a grammar of the language, and after years of labour he 
 has at last finished his great dictionary, which is now ready 
 to be written out for the press, and that alone must be a 
 work of some years ; it is to be printed at Government 
 expense. When one thinks that twenty years ago, when 
 these missionaries arrived in Santalistan, there was not one 
 written word of the language, it will give some idea of the 
 difficulties which had to be faced, and which were faced 
 so nobly, and through the grace of God overcome. One 
 cannot be long in the company of Mr. Skrefsrud without 
 feeling that he is in the presence of a profound scholar, 
 and a rare linguist and philologist. He showed me all his 
 first MSS., and told me how he had often lain outside the 
 Santal huts at night in order to pick up certain idioms 
 and sounds, by listening to the people talking in their own 
 unfettered home-talk. Often and often he has thus lain at 
 night jotting down new words and idioms in the dark ; and 
 I saw some of the very bits and scraps of dirty paper 
 which had been used for the purpose. I believe that in 
 order to get one particular sound, a kind of "cluck," he
 
 THE GIRLS 1 SCHOOL, 7 1 
 
 used to make a Santali pronounce it before a large looking- 
 glass, so as to see how the vocal organs were acting. 
 Surely such labours as these deserve the abundant reward 
 that has been vouchsafed to them. The Santal language 
 is a very beautiful and perfect one, these poor jangli people 
 expressing themselves with a nicety and finesse that is per- 
 fectly astonishing ; it is especially so when one remembers 
 that there is no literature, and that not a word of their 
 language was written till the missionaries wrote it. 
 
 When in the girls' school to-day I was pointed out several 
 girls who were being supported by kind friends in Scotland ; 
 and when I asked the girls what message they would send 
 to their friends in Britain, they said, quite of their own 
 accord, " Many thanks for all that is being done for us. 
 We will try to be diligent and good. We love God and 
 Jesus." When walking to the reservoir with Mr. Boerresen 
 this morning we met a poor leper ; he is a Christian, and 
 a very good man, Mr. Boerresen tells me. I had a few 
 words with him. There are many out-stations in connection 
 with this mission, at two of which there are European 
 missionaries Messrs. Berg and Bunkholdt; at four others 
 of these out-stations there are native pastors. There are 
 sixty-one travelling elders, ten catechists, five trained school- 
 masters, fourteen travelling schoolmasters, a native doctor, 
 and a compounder. At the head of the Assam colony there 
 is a native pastor, with nine elders and three catechists, and 
 they have a girls' and a boys' school. Altogether this is 
 a most complete and workable organization ; but what is 
 better than all, Mr. Boerresen tells me that all the Santal 
 Christians recognize the responsibility that rests upon them 
 to preach and live Christ before their heathen neighbours. 
 
 All the people in the village in which Ebenezer is situated 
 have become Christians ; but, curious to say, there is a 
 large village close by which yet holds out. The missionaries, 
 however, have faith to believe that its yielding is but a
 
 72 "PAPPA" AND "MAMMA." 
 
 matter of time, and that it also will be given to their 
 prayers. The greatest change has come over this village 
 of late years, and its women now come flocking to church 
 on Sundays. 
 
 Mr. Boerresen and Mr. Skrefsrud seem to be men who 
 have been cast in a very different mould, and yet very 
 suitable to each other; the one is the counterpart of the 
 other. The one is the father of the mission the " pappa," 
 as the Santals call him the other is the scholar of it ; but 
 both are men of faith and prayer, and both are equally 
 needed. A Santal once said to Mr. Skrefsrud, " When you 
 preach to us with a great flow of words it impresses us very 
 much at the time ; but when pappa " (you must sound both 
 p's to get the Santal pronunciation of the word) " looks 
 into our face, takes us by the hand, and says, ' You poor 
 sinner, I shall pray for you !' we never forget that." While 
 Mr. Boerresen is the " pappa" of the mission, Mrs. Boerresen 
 is the " mamma" of it. It is really a refreshing sight to see 
 her amongst her women and girls. I was greatly struck 
 this morning when standing in the girls' school to see the 
 evident feeling of reciprocity that there was between her 
 and her girls. As I looked round on the hundreds of 
 sparkling eyes, set in such bright, happy faces, I could not 
 but feel that there is a great future for Santalistan. These 
 girls whom we now see in the hundreds of mission schools 
 all over India are to be the future mothers; and if they are 
 praying Christian mothers, we, who enjoy all the benefits of 
 Christian training, know how much that means.
 
 S A PA DOHA. 73 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 EBENEZER (SANTALISTAN}, AND CALCUTTA. 
 
 January 13. After chhoti-hazri, Mr. Boerresen and I 
 started for Sapadoha, one of the out-stations. After a 
 pleasant drive of eight miles, half the distance being across 
 the fields, and consequently difficult to get over, we arrived 
 at the mission station, and were met and welcomed by 
 Pastor Surju and his wife, the elders and their wives, and 
 several others of the Christian men and women, also 
 children. They all seemed so truly glad to see us, and 
 shook our hands very warmly. Pastor Surju seems to be 
 a very dear fellow. He and his elders at one time had 
 about seven hundred Christians to look after ; but now, 
 owing to the starting of the Christian colony at Assam, the 
 number is reduced to about three hundred. However, it 
 is rapidly increasing again, as the work of these native 
 brethren is being much owned of God. The station of 
 Sapadoha is very prettily laid out. It consists of a large 
 building used as a church, school, and meeting-house, 
 surrounded by the houses of the pastor and his elders, and 
 is all kept so exquisitely clean that one might sit down 
 anywhere without soiling one's clothes. It must be borne 
 in mind, however, that there is never any mud, unless in 
 the rainy season. We were the guests of Pastor Surju, 
 whose good wife cooked us a most delicious breakfast 
 with her own hands ; and, like Abraham of old, when his 
 wife had cooked the meal for his guests, Surju himself 
 insisted on standing by and waiting on us. The whole
 
 74 BREAKFAST WITH SURJU. 
 
 thing was truly Eastern and Biblical from beginning to end. 
 The curry and rice were served in their own brightly-polished 
 vessels; and there were neither knives, forks, nor spoons, 
 but fortunately Mrs. Boerresen had thought of putting a 
 knife and fork into our lunch-basket. These Mr. Boerresen 
 insisted on my using, as he said that he having lived so 
 long with the Santals was better able to manage with his 
 fingers than I ; and, indeed, when I saw how deftly he did 
 manage, and was conscious of how clumsily / should have 
 done it, I was very glad of the arrangement. It is very 
 pleasing to see how these Santal Christians seem to love 
 and respect their dear "pappa;" there seems to be such 
 a feeling of entire confidence between him and them. 
 Every now and then there would be fresh arrivals of 
 Christians from outlying villages, and as they came 
 in they would walk over and shake Mr. Boerresen's 
 hand so affectionately, while he would ask them of the 
 welfare of their families and the news of their villages. 
 After breakfast we had half an hour's prayer and conver- 
 sation with the Christians, Mr. Boerresen interpreting for 
 me, as they did not understand Hindustani. We then left 
 to visit a village some two miles distant, where there are 
 several Christian families living amongst the heathen. We 
 were accompanied by Pastor Surju and several of the other 
 Christians from Sapadoha. When we arrived in the village, 
 it was very pleasant to be received so well by Christians 
 and heathen alike. All had a welcome for " pappa." The 
 village was divided into two parts, at some little distance 
 from each other, and there are Christians living in both. 
 We visited both, and shook hands with all the Christians, 
 even to the very little children, the mothers bringing the 
 latter forward and making them shake hands so nicely 
 with their right hand. In each division of the village the 
 heathen crowded round ; and in each the gospel message 
 was delivered, and was listened to reverently and attentively.
 
 CHRISTIANS AND HEATHEN. 75 
 
 Mr. Boerresen spoke twice and Pastor Surju once. In 
 each a hymn was sung, and in one prayer was offered. 
 We then left, after receiving many "johars" ("johar" 
 being the "salam" of this part of the country). The 
 difference between the heathen and the Christians, and 
 between their respective homes, was very marked. In 
 many instances the faces of the heathen men and women 
 were bloated and their eyes red from staying up all night, 
 and drinking and dancing at the festival which was going 
 on just then, while the faces of the Christians were clear 
 and bright. No fear of their joining in such revelries now ! 
 Yes, just at present the dividing-line between Christianity 
 and heathenism is very clearly cut. God grant that it may 
 always continue so. Some of the older Christian women 
 were to be seen with the heavy leg and arm ornaments ; 
 but Mr. Boerresen never failed to remark on them, and 
 to point out the inconsistency of Christians wearing such 
 heathenish things. He would perhaps say, in a good- 
 humoured sort of way, " Dear me, how strange to see a 
 Christian woman wearing such things !" whereupon the 
 wearer would look down very much ashamed. I believe 
 it often happens that after one such remark the ornaments 
 are not seen again. When we left the village, Pastor Surju 
 and the elders, with some of the children, accompanied us 
 to the brink of a large river which we had to cross, and 
 there bade us farewell, reminding me very forcibly of 
 Acts xxi. 5, 6. We may appropriately conclude our 
 account of this deeply-interesting mission-field by quoting 
 that beautiful verse, " The wilderness and the solitary place 
 shall be glad for them ; and the desert shall rejoice, and 
 blossom as the rose." 
 
 January 14. Bid the kind friends at Ebenezer good-bye 
 at 10.15 a - m - an d> driving over to Rampore Haut, caught 
 the 12.40 train to Calcutta, where I arrived at 7.30 p.m. I 
 drove at once to the C. M. S. Mission-house, and found that
 
 76 "WANTING TO HEAR ABOUT JESUS." 
 
 there was a missionary meeting going on. I was introduced 
 to Mr. and Mrs. Harrington, and Mr. Hall of the C. M. S., 
 and Miss Sampson of the C. E. Z. M. S. Miss Sampson 
 kindly visits the women in the Leper Asylum on Saturdays. 
 In a letter lately written home she says of this work : 
 
 " I have been much interested lately in my visits to the 
 Leper Asylum. Two Mussulman women who have lately 
 come seern interested. They are both very ignorant, but they 
 are very eager to hear about Jesus Christ, and I believe one 
 at least is seeking for salvation. I have been much pleased 
 to find that Mary and Martha, the two younger Christian 
 women, are constantly in and out of the Mussulman house, 
 where they sit and sing hymns to them, and try to teach 
 them what they know. Before, when I used to tell them 
 they should speak to the Hindu women, they would say, 
 'Oh, they don't listen, they don't care!' But now they 
 come to me with such bright faces, saying, ' They are always 
 wanting to hear about Jesus.' A little Bengali tract, called 
 Another Burden, has, I think, been really helpful to them. 
 It is a conversation between two women carrying kolshies 
 of water; one complains that it is very heavy, and the 
 other says there is another burden heavier still, the burden 
 of sin ; and she goes on to show how it can be taken away. 
 I read this tract in each of the three houses, Mary and 
 Martha following me. Mary said, ' It is so easy to under- 
 stand ; if they always heard those words, they would soon 
 believe.' She begged to keep the tract, which she spells 
 over for herself, and they often seem to talk about it. Will 
 you pray for those Mahommedan women ? " 
 
 After the meeting I left with Dr. Baumann of the C.M.S , 
 who was living at 33, Amherst Street, and whose guest I am 
 during my stay in Calcutta, and got a most kind welcome 
 from Mrs. Baumann. Dr. Baumann has been for some years 
 acting as chaplain to the District Charitable Association, 
 and in that capacity has always taken the deepest interest
 
 THE OLD BLIND LEPER WOMAN. 77 
 
 in the leper wards, and has been greatly blessed in his 
 ministrations amongst the lepers. The first news he had 
 for me was of the baptism of an old leper woman over 
 eighty years of age, which had taken place a few weeks 
 before; a deeply-interesting case. The following is the 
 account of it : " She (an old blind woman) had been very 
 indifferent before, but the united singing and praying in the 
 chapel touched her heart, and made her ask for baptism. 
 After the expiration of a sufficient interval for testing her 
 character, and after due instruction in our most holy faith, 
 she was admitted by baptism into the visible band of 
 Christ's followers, and received the name of Lydia. Soon 
 after her baptism she was rather sharply examined by the 
 native doctor, a Hindu, as to the reason of her becoming a 
 Christian. "Was there no god to give you peace among 
 the many Hindu gods and goddesses?" "No," was her 
 decided reply, " none of our gods could help me, for they 
 were all sinners. But I have found Him now, the true 
 Saviour; His name is Jesus, and to Him I shall cling in 
 life and in death, for He has cleansed me indeed by giving 
 His holy life for me, which no Hindu god or goddess did." 
 I believe it was a sermon of Dr. Baumann's, on the second 
 coming of Christ, which was the special instrument used to 
 awaken her. She said afterwards to Dr. Baumann, "If that 
 be true which you have told us just now about Christ's 
 coming, surely we ought to be ready for Him !" 
 
 I found the weather in Calcutta much warmer than in 
 Santalistan ; though it was still the cold season, I was only 
 able to wear a very light suit during the daytime. 
 
 January 15. Visited the leper asylum with Dr. Baumann 
 before breakfast, and saw the little flock of Christian lepers 
 assembling for morning worship, which was to be conducted 
 by our leper mission catechist. The dear old soul ot 
 eighty-two, who was baptised so lately, came tottering in 
 while I was there. She is quite blind. I saw an East
 
 78 CALCUTTA LEPER ASYLUM. 
 
 Indian with a pretty young wife and four children three 
 girls and a boy all lepers except the mother. There was 
 a native Christian in the church with a most peculiar form 
 of the disease ; his whole body, even his face, was one mass 
 of tubercles, which had developed into enormous wart-like 
 substances. This asylum is under the management of the 
 District Charitable Association of Calcutta, but the Mission 
 to Lepers in India is allowed to keep a catechist to work 
 there under the superintendence of Dr. Baumann ; and 
 lately a neat little church has been put up for the Christian 
 lepers, built partly from funds collected by Dr. Baumann, 
 and partly by a grant of 1000 rupees from the Mission to 
 Lepers in India. There are three separate sets of wards for 
 men, and three for women, one of each being occupied by 
 Mahommedans, one by Hindus, and one by Christians ; 
 but the place is very much overcrowded. It is a matter of 
 urgent necessity either that the present asylum should be 
 very much enlarged or that a new one should be built. I 
 was taken round by the native doctor in charge in order 
 that I might see the overcrowded state of the place, and 
 certainly it was very dreadful. But that is not the worst. 
 There are thousands (I saw it stated in a letter to the Church 
 Missionary Gleaner that the number is 1 2,000) of helpless 
 lepers to be found in the streets of Calcutta, who ought, 
 not only for their own sakes, but for the welfare of the 
 community at large, to be placed in an asylum. Surely it is 
 not safe to allow lepers to sit in the streets handling and 
 .selling vegetables to healthy people; and yet this takes 
 place in Calcutta. Little do people know what is taking 
 place constantly all around them. No wonder that there is 
 every now and then a scare at home, and a few letters in 
 the Times ; but if the people in England only knew what is 
 the real state of the case throughout British India, they 
 would never rest until the whole of the leper community 
 was segregated from the healthy. Many people would
 
 LEPROSY ON THE INCREASE. 79 
 
 advocate the passing of a law making it criminal for lepers 
 to marry, and so add daily to the already too terrible 
 number of victims. I do not attempt to enter upon the 
 complex ethics of this question here ; suffice it to say that 
 I am one of those who believe that the disease is on the 
 increase, and that if steps are not taken to prevent its 
 spread, there is grave danger that we shall again have it 
 introduced into England. We know that it was raging in 
 England in the middle ages, and even up to the middle of 
 the sixteenth century it was still to be found to a large 
 extent, and it was only by the adoption of a system of the 
 strictest segregation, sometimes, I grieve to say, accom- 
 panied with gross cruelty, that it was driven out. The 
 lepers are commonly put down as numbering from one 
 hundred thousand to one hundred and fifty thousand ; but 
 this number is, I believe, far from correct. I for one 
 believe them to number five hundred thousand, and I 
 know there are many medical men and others who agree 
 with me in this. In the report on the last Bengal Census, 
 after having stated the number of lepers in all Bengal as 
 56,533, it goes on to say, "It will be observed in the first 
 place that, according to these figures, the number of lepers 
 of the male sex is three times as great as that of the female 
 lepers, the men being twelve and the women four in every 
 ten thousand of either sex. No grounds exist for believing 
 that the male sex is more liable to leprous attacks than the 
 female ; but, on the other hand, there is every reason to 
 suppose that the number of female lepers has been very 
 much under-stated in the return. The disease itself is a 
 painful and disgusting one, and makes its victim a source of 
 danger and an object of aversion to others. Hence the 
 great sensitiveness which every respectable native feels in 
 speaking of the female members of his family is aggravated 
 by a sentiment of shame in the admission that any of them 
 are suffering from a loathsome disease. Special enquiries
 
 So LEPER STATISTICS, BENGAL. 
 
 were made in the district of Rungpore in the year 1876 by 
 Dr. Ghose, civil surgeon of the district, and his conclusion 
 was that there was great concealment of female lepers. 
 His estimate was so low as one female for every two male 
 lepers; but there is no reason why their numbers should 
 not be taken as equal. If this be admitted, the total of 
 lepers in Bengal rises to 84,566, or 12 in 10,000 of the 
 whole population. Moreover, as Dr. Ghose very pertinently 
 remarks, it is almost certain that only the confirmed lepers, 
 i.e., those in whom the disease was fully developed, were 
 entered as lepers by the enumerators ; but in the enquiry 
 just alluded to it was found that to every confirmed leper 
 there were at least three others with symptoms not so 
 strongly marked, but nevertheless incurably affected with 
 the disease. If this estimate is accepted, we shall find 
 that the number of lepers in Bengal is more than 250,000, 
 or 36 in every 10,000 of the people." 
 
 Though the accommodation for lepers in Calcutta is so 
 short of what it should be, yet they are much better off than 
 the denizens of the awful Dharmsala of Bombay, but not 
 so well off as in Madras, and yet in all three Presidency 
 towns the accommodation is terribly insufficient. In the 
 Calcutta Asylum I saw several Eurasian lepers and one pure 
 European, a woman from Dublin. 
 
 January 16. Sunday. This has been a bright and 
 happy day. Went to early service in the leper church, and 
 had the privilege of giving the address, after which I 
 partook of the Communion with the lepers, Dr. Baumann 
 officiating. The healthy portion of the congregation first 
 received, and then the lepers. 
 
 After breakfast I visited a converted Brahman pundit. 
 He had been what is called a " titled pundit," and of the 
 very highest standing. His wife had been a true believer, 
 and died in the faith, but was not baptised owing to her 
 husband's opposition. He was very unhappy as a Hindu,
 
 "READ THAT AGAIN." 8r 
 
 so became a follower of Keshub Chandar Sen, the great 
 Brahmo Somajh leader ; but there too he did not find peace. 
 At last, on the death of his wife, he turned to the Christian 
 Scriptures to see if they could give him what he sought, as 
 the Brahmos could do nothing for him, and in this way he 
 came across Dr. Baumann . For a long time he could not 
 get rid of his Pantheistic ideas, until one day, while sitting 
 in Dr. Baumann's study, Dr. Baumann said to him, " What 
 greater proof could God have given of His love than to have 
 given His Son to die for us ?" The old man asked, " Was 
 it true that He had done so." And Dr. Baumann said, " It 
 is so written/' and read to him the verse, " God so loved 
 the world," &c. The man said, "Read that again," and 
 Dr. Baumann read. *' Read it again," said the pundit ; and 
 as it was being read to him the third time the tears streamed 
 down his cheeks, and his heart was won. Only another 
 instance of the power of the living Word, and another 
 proof that "it is not by might, nor by power, but by my 
 Spirit." 
 
 The pundit proved his sincerity by becoming a zealous 
 preacher of the gospel ; but first he came to Dr. Baumann 
 and asked if he could be baptised for his departed 
 wife as well as for himself, as he was greatly troubled 
 that he had been the means of preventing her from 
 being baptised. However, when he understood that that 
 could not be done, and, moreover, that there was no 
 necessity for it, he was satisfied, and so was baptised him- 
 self. Some time after he was one day preaching in his own 
 village, when he was suddenly seized with paralysis, and he 
 has been confined to his bed ever since; of course the 
 heathen say that such a stroke was to be expected, after his 
 having left the religion of his forefathers. His influence is 
 not altogether lost, however, as he now spends all his time 
 in writing tracts. I had a most interesting conversation 
 with him to-day, but by interpretation, as he could not 
 
 F
 
 82 GENERAL ASSEMBLY'S INSTITUTE. 
 
 speak English or Hindustani, while I could not speak his 
 Bengali. When I was leaving he said to me, "Well, sahib, 
 by-and-by we shall meet up yonder (pointing upward with 
 his hand), and then we shall be able to speak the same 
 language." He looked so bright and happy the whole time 
 I was with him. 
 
 The catechist from the Leper Asylum visited me in the 
 afternoon. He is an educated man, and speaks three 
 languages (Hindustani, Bengali, and Ooriya), which makes 
 him especially useful amongst the lepers in the asylum, who 
 come from different parts of the country, and speak among 
 them many different languages. This catechist seems a 
 nice fellow, and is a convert of the Rajpootana Mission, 
 having been baptised by Dr. Shoolbred. He was formerly 
 a Brahman. 
 
 In the evening I attended an evangelistic service at the 
 General Assembly's Institute, and was pleased to see so 
 many English-speaking natives present. The service was 
 conducted by a Mr. Jacob, of the Civil Service. There 
 was a hymn, prayer, and reading of the Word ; and then an 
 earnest gospel address on "Jesus Christ, and Him cruci- 
 fied." The speaker pointed out how many were willing to 
 take Christ as their Prophet, Priest, or King; or Jesus as a 
 Saviour in a limited sense as a teacher or an example ; 
 but that unless we were willing to take Him as crucified it 
 would not avail. It was most interesting to find this 
 earnest evangelistic work going on in connection with this 
 great institution, which ranks so high as an educational 
 power in Bengal. There is also a Sunday-school, at which 
 there is a good attendance, and at both the attendance is 
 quite voluntary. It is perhaps necessary to say, for those 
 who are not well up in missionary and church matters, that 
 the General Assembly's Institute is the great missionary 
 college of the Established Church of Scotland in Calcutta. 
 The Rev. W. Smith, M.A., is the principal, and he is assisted
 
 GENERAL ASSEMBLY'S INSTITUTE. 83 
 
 by four other missionary professors Messrs. Edwards, 
 Morrison, Hamilton, and Wilson. Speaking of the Sunday 
 evangelistic services, Mr. Smith told me that many of the 
 young men of the college have said to him that they are 
 very glad of the service, as it supplies a felt want ; they are 
 glad of the opportunity thus afforded them of worshipping 
 God. These educated young men, who have thrown off 
 idolatry, but who have not yet seen their way to becoming 
 Christians, are in a transition stage, and it is at least a 
 hopeful sign to see them so willing to attend our evangelistic 
 services. I myself believe that there will yet be a mighty 
 awakening amongst these educated young men of India, 
 and a great ingathering to the fold of Christ
 
 84 A LEPER'S GRATITUDE TO CHRIST. 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 CALCUTTA AND DARJEELING, 
 
 January 17. This has been a deeply-interesting day. 
 Before breakfast I went out with Dr. Baumann to visit the 
 Cemetery, where Mr. Vaughan and Mr. Welland, both of 
 the C. M. S., are buried, and saw their graves. Mr. Vaughan 
 was devoted to the lepers. While at the cemetery I saw, 
 in the mortuary chapel, the reading-desk which was made 
 some years ago by a poor Chinese leper, the account of 
 which was so touching that I quote it here : " A Chinese 
 leper was baptized, a brighter Christian than whom I have 
 seldom seen. The frightful disease had robbed him of his 
 fingers and toes, yet he managed to contrive something 
 extraordinary to manifest his love and gratitude to Christ. 
 Noticing that our reading-desk had become rickety, he 
 spent his small savings in buying wood ; and as he could 
 not grasp any tools in his hands, he put a knife between 
 his teeth, and in this manner he carved a beautiful little 
 rest for the Bible, and thus put us all to shame by his love 
 and ingenuity in the Master's service." I saw in the 
 cemetery a tombstone to a husband and child, erected by 
 the widow and mother, with this touching verse on it : " Is 
 it well with thy husband ? is it well with the child ? And 
 she answered, It is well." 
 
 From the Christian cemetery we drove to see the tomb 
 of the celebrated Keshub Chander Sen, the leader of the 
 Brahmo Somajh. We saw also the sanctuary and pulpit 
 (or throne), on which he sat only once, and about which
 
 SADHARNA SOMAJH. 85 
 
 there has been so much disputing ever since, that in the 
 meantime it is not allowed to be used. Close by is the 
 tank in which he used to baptize his followers in the name 
 of the Trinity. Over his tomb are the Trident, the Crescent, 
 and the Cross in combination. Leaving Keshub's tomb, 
 we next visited the church of the Sadharna Somajh, the 
 seceders from the Brahmos. It is very much like a Christian 
 church, except that it has a special place screened off for 
 the women. It is seated like a Christian church, and has a 
 place railed off in the front for a pulpit. There was a 
 harmonium, along with some native musical instruments. 
 They sing many of our Christian hymns, altered a little to 
 suit their own peculiar views ; and they use written prayers 
 to God, some very beautiful in sentiment, but ignoring the 
 necessity of a Mediator. Here are two specimens from a 
 little book entitled Thirsting after God: 
 
 A MORNING PRAYER. 
 
 " Fill my heart with Thy loving presence, O Lord, before 
 I go to face the troubles and trials of the world. What can 
 disturb the peace of the heart that is steeped in Thy 
 love? Take me, O Lord, to that world of loving com- 
 munion, where the noise and bustle of the world cannot 
 reach, where the heart remains ever cool and full of love 
 under Thy eternal spring of love far from the scorching 
 heat of the world. Fasten my eyes on Thee alone, and 
 direct all my energies to Thy service, that my whole life 
 may be a continuous homage to Thy infinite love." 
 
 GOD AND THE WORLD. 
 
 " Why do I leave Thee, O Lord, and rush to the burning 
 deserts of the world? Give me strength to hold fast by 
 Thee. The world cannot give me peace ; its pleasures do 
 not please me, its occupations harass me when I walk in it 
 without Thee. Keep me ever with Thee, O Lord, bound by
 
 86 RAM MO HUN ROY. 
 
 an indissoluble tie of devoted attachment. Fill my heart 
 with the sweetness of Thy love, so that the temptations of 
 the world may not take me away from Thee." 
 
 The originator of all this interesting movement was Raja 
 Ram Mohun Roy, who now lies buried in Bristol. In the 
 year 1818 he commenced his first strange prayer-meeting, 
 which became the germ of the Brahmo Somajh, and in 
 which the one God was worshipped according to the light 
 of Nature. He did not himself establish a new mode of 
 worship, but twelve years later, i.e., in 1830, the religious 
 society was openly established under its present name by 
 those who had imbibed his opinions. Ram Mohun Roy 
 selected what he considered good in the Hindu Scriptures, 
 especially the Vedas, but he really derived his inspiration 
 from the Bible, as is manifest from his publication called 
 The Precepts of Jesus. The last years of his life he spent 
 in England, where he died, in 1833, an apostle of Uni- 
 tarianism. After his death the Brahmo Somajh almost 
 ceased to exist, but entered on a new career under the 
 leadership of Babu Debendra Nath Tagore. It is at 
 present carried on and presided over by Dwarka Nath 
 Tagore, a member of one of the highest native families in 
 Calcutta. His pupil and convert was the celebrated Keshub 
 Chander Sen, who afterwards seceded from him, and started 
 "The Indian Brahmo Somajh," not agreeing with the 
 others on the subject of the Brahminical thread. Before 
 Keshub's death another secession took place in 1878, on 
 the occasion of the marriage of his daughter, aged 13, to 
 the Raja of Kooch Behar, the marriage taking place with 
 partly Brahmo and partly Hindu ceremonies, which resulted 
 in the establishment of a third Somajh, called the Sadharna 
 or Universal Somajh, and these two latter are now at deadly 
 feud one with the other ; the Sadharna is presided over by 
 Siva Nath Shastri.
 
 KESHUB CHANDER SEN'S LAST TEXT. 87 
 
 The last text which Keshub preached from was, " Except 
 ye eat My flesh," &c. ; and it is said that his followers, 
 taking these words literally, actually did struggle amongst 
 themselves for portions of his half-charred body at the 
 burning. 
 
 I lunched to-day with Mr. Edwards, of the General 
 Assembly's Institute, and was kindly shown all over the 
 institution by Mr. Smith, the principal. It is a most 
 interesting place, very much like Dr. Miller's great college 
 in Madras. The Bible is taught in every class, except the 
 two highest, which are college classes, and are composed 
 entirely of young men, 
 
 January 19. Before breakfast spent about an hour and 
 a half in the Leper Asylum, and had a very interesting 
 
 interview with poor Miss J ; I read and prayed with 
 
 her, and she seemed very grateful for the visit, poor thing. 
 I took some books with me, which had been given me by a 
 kind friend in the North of Scotland, and gave them away to 
 those who could speak English. I only wish my friend 
 could have seen the delight which her gifts produced in 
 that dismal abode, and it would have gladdened her own 
 heart. I called to-day upon Mr. Ball, of the C. M. S., who 
 told me of a very interesting conversion of an old native 
 which had come under his notice. Mr. Ball was out with 
 his catechist, and coming across this old man, the catechist 
 preached the gospel to him, but spoke in a way which was 
 above the old man's head, whereupon he remarked that he 
 did not understand English. The catechist then went over 
 the story again in the simplest language which he could 
 command, and when he had finished the old man said, 
 "Well, I never heard such a story as that before." He 
 was then asked if he believed it, and answered, in the most 
 child-like way, "Of course I believe it; you would not tell 
 me a lie." So, with the simplicity of a little child, he drank 
 in the gospel message the first time he heard it, accepted it
 
 88 FEMALE ORPHANAGE, CHURCH OF SCOTLAND. 
 
 there and then, and afterwards confessed Christ and was 
 baptised. 
 
 I was much interested to-day in visiting the Orphanage of 
 the Church of Scotland, in Bow Bazaar, and was struck with 
 the suitableness of the premises for the purpose for which 
 they are now being used, but sorry to hear that they are 
 not the property of the Mission, but that a heavy rent has 
 to be paid for them. Miss McGillewie, the lady superin- 
 tendent, took me over the whole, and gave me an 
 opportunity of seeing the girls and speaking with them. 
 They looked bright and happy, and exceedingly well 
 cared for ; they sang some hymns for me, but when I asked 
 them what messages they would send home, they were at 
 first very shy, and would not say anything ; when, however, 
 I got some of them over beside me, and took one little 
 one's hand in mine, they got confidence, and one said, 
 "Many thanks for the things sent out in the box;" another, 
 " Many thanks to the kind friends who sent me here to 
 be taught, for when I came here I knew nothing." One 
 girl sent her love, and asked for prayer that she might be 
 able to learn well. A Hindu girl sent her salam, and said 
 I was to say she had learnt to read and write, and was glad 
 to learn about Jesus. 
 
 Miss McGillewie also very kindly took me to two of the 
 city schools, which I enjoyed much. At one of them I 
 found Miss Niven, a lady from Edinburgh, in the midst of 
 her girls, looking very happy in her work. It was ridiculous 
 to see several girls in these schools with the red mark on 
 the centre of the forehead, just on the division of the hair, 
 showing that they were already married ; little dots of nine 
 and ten. At Miss Niven's school the girls went through a 
 Kindergarten song; it was led by a sweetly-pretty child, 
 who stood in the middle, and it was delightful to see the 
 spirit she threw into it. There was another very pretty 
 child in this school. Miss Niven was teaching her mother in
 
 GOVERNMENT HOUSE. 
 
 a zenana, and had reason to believe that both mother and 
 child were much impressed ; they were evidently acting 
 and reacting the one on the other. It is sad to think that 
 this poor child will soon be removed from her mother's and 
 her teacher's influence, and, child though she is, must go 
 and be under the complete control of her mother-in-law. 
 I heard to-day of a zenana pupil who, when the missionary 
 first went to visit her, was able to repeat off by heart 
 ninety different verses which she had learnt at the mission 
 school. Surely God's Word thus sown in the heart cannot 
 return to Him void. 
 
 At 6 p.m. I went to Government House, as Lady Dufferin 
 had been good enough to grant me an interview. Her 
 Excellency, who was most kind, seemed very much inter- 
 ested in hearing of our efforts on behalf of the lepers ; she 
 had herself, she told me, visited them in the Leper Hospital 
 in Madras, and had been greatly touched by their misery. 
 What struck her ladyship as especially sad was the fact 
 that the little children, in whom the disease was still only 
 in its incipient form, were obliged to dwell amongst those 
 in whom it had reached its worst stages ; and this does 
 strike everyone who visits in Leper Asylums. I feel very 
 much the necessity of establishing orphanages for the children 
 of lepers, I mean rather for those as yet untainted, so that 
 if we cannot save those in whom the disease has actually 
 begun, we may yet do something to prevent the others from 
 falling victims to it. As I have already mentioned, a very 
 successful venture of this kind has been made in Almora, 
 and I should like to see the same done in connection with 
 all the different asylums, at all events those in connection 
 with missionary effort. 
 
 January 21. After breakfast drove over (a long distance) 
 to Belvedere to see the Lieut.-Governor, Sir Rivers Thomp- 
 son, who was kind enough to spare me a few moments of 
 his very valuable time. His Honour received me most kindly,
 
 90 THE TO Y TRAIN. 
 
 and listened attentively to what I had to say. My object 
 in calling was to explain to him the overcrowded state of 
 the Calcutta Leper Asylum, and to ask him if he would 
 use his influence to get something done before his term of 
 office expired, which it is about to do immediately. He 
 said that the only way the thing could be done would 
 be to get the District Charitable Association to move in the 
 matter; that if they would make an application to him he 
 would see what could be done. (But the time was short, 
 and the formalities which would have to be gone through 
 were long, and so nothing could be done.) 
 
 I left the Sealdah station for Darjeeling by the 2.30 train, 
 having spent a most delightful week with my kind friends 
 the Baumanns. We reached Damookdea Ghat before 8 p.m., 
 and dined on board the ferry-boat, whilst crossing the river 
 Ganges. On arrival at the other side we again took our 
 places in a train for Siliguri, and were soon settled down for 
 the night. 
 
 January 22. After a fairly good night in the train, 
 arrived at Siliguri to breakfast, and immediately afterwards 
 we started in the Hill railway for Darjeeling. It is the 
 most wonderful railway I have ever seen, the narrowest 
 gauge, and going up and down the steepest gradients ; at 
 times this little toy-like train works its way up or down in a 
 zigzag fashion, and at times it worms itself round like a 
 corkscrew, completing the loop, and passing over the very 
 spot on which it has been but a moment before : it almost 
 takes away one's breath to look out of the window. There 
 are closed and open carriages, and if the weather is fine it 
 is much preferable to travel in one of the open ones, in 
 order to see the magnificent scenery. It is one of the 
 most interesting and exciting trips that I know of, and to 
 my mind far surpasses the St. Gothard route, though that 
 route is very wonderful. At the bottom of these hills the 
 scenery is very lovely, indeed all the way up, but there is
 
 THE SNOWPLOUGH. 91 
 
 great variety between the lower and the higher parts ; it 
 is pretty at the bottom, but grand and awe-inspiring at the 
 top. The train runs at an average of eight miles an hour, 
 and makes constant stoppages, so that you can get off and 
 on as if it were a tramcar ; and should you feel inclined for 
 a climb, there are certain places where you can leave the 
 train, and, taking a short cut, can arrive a few miles higher 
 up before the train, which is of course obliged to take a 
 very circuitous route all the way. When we left Siliguri 
 the morning was beautiful, and we had a very fine view of 
 Kinchinchunga in the distance; but as we got up the 
 mountains it became cold and damp, and we had several 
 showers of sleet and hail ; as we ascended it got colder 
 and colder, and when we reached Kurseong bazaar we 
 found snow lying about thickly. Here the train runs right 
 up the middle of the bazaar, and finally draws up at the 
 Clarendon Hotel, so close that you can step out of your 
 carriage into the verandah of the hotel. From this point 
 onwards the journey was very disagreeable, as it came on 
 to snow heavily ; and by the time we reached Ghoom, 
 three miles from Darjeeling, we were all feeling damp, 
 cold, and miserable. I was told that we had a snowplough 
 ahead of us clearing away the snow, and this in a few hours, 
 one may say, from Calcutta, where we had been wearing 
 summer clothes ! There is no country in the world where, 
 if one makes extensive tours, one finds a greater necessity 
 for taking a good supply of clothes of all sorts, light and 
 heavy ; and people who are new to the country cannot be 
 too often warned about this, and the still greater necessity 
 of guarding against the sun, even when in the Himalayas. 
 When people first arrive in the country, in Madras, Bombay, 
 or even Calcutta, they will perhaps be in a temperature so 
 high that the very sight of a rug or blanket makes them 
 feel as if they were standing close to some great furnace, 
 and so off they go up-country in thin clothes, and without
 
 92 DARJEELING. 
 
 proper wraps, and in a few days or hours find themselves 
 amid snow or ice, or in a damp cold where they are sure to 
 be chilled to the bone. 
 
 From Ghoom is a steady descent of three miles, so one 
 is not long in running in from there to Darjeeling. On this 
 last bit the train goes more rapidly, and some of the curves 
 are so sharp that, sitting in the front carriage, you every 
 now and then catch a glimpse of the people in the last one. 
 These curves are so very sharp that a rather amusing story 
 has been made up about them. It is said that on one 
 occasion an engine-driver, going round one of them in the 
 dark, suddenly saw his own backlights, and thinking them 
 to be the lights of another train, immediately pulled up 
 and whistled vigorously. 
 
 We arrived at Darjeeling about 4 o'clock, when I was 
 met by Mr. Turnbull, of the Church of Scotland Mission ; 
 and we had a pleasant walk to the mission-house, where 
 Mrs. Turnbull gave me a very kind welcome. I was 
 particularly struck by the healthy home-look of their two 
 little children, who had their roses blooming in their 
 cheeks, as one might expect to see in the north of 
 Scotland. 
 
 NOTE. For a good deal of the information in this chapter, regarding 
 the Somajh movement, I am indebted to Dr. Baumann, C.M.S.
 
 CHURCH OF SCOTLAND MISSION, DARJEEL1NG. 93 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 DARJEELING, BHAGULFORE, PATNA, BENARES, 
 AND FA1ZABAD. 
 
 January 23. The mission work of the Church of 
 Scotland missionaries of this place has been greatly 
 blessed. The mission was founded and carried on for 
 many years by Mr. Macfarlane, who was assisted by his 
 sister Miss Macfarlane ; and they were afterwards reinforced 
 by Mr. Turnbull and Mr. Sutherland, who are now in sole 
 charge of the work the former being stationed here, and 
 the latter at Kalimpong; while Mr. Macfarlane* is about 
 to open a new mission in Independent Sikkim. 
 
 This is a very young mission, and yet in the Darjeeling 
 division of it there are now 369 baptised Christians, and of 
 these 60 were added to the church in 1886 ; while in 
 Mr. Sutherland's division the total number at the close 
 of the year 1886 was 446, 94 of whom were added during 
 that year. 
 
 This has been a very happy Sunday. I attended morning 
 service with the native Christians. It was conducted in 
 Hindi, the service being held in a room built out from the 
 mission-house. This room was formerly used as a ball- 
 room before the house became the property of the mission. 
 There is much need of a church building. After service I 
 took a quiet walk, and got a magnificent view of the snows. 
 It was beautifully clear, and Kinchinchunga, his head 
 
 * Since my visit this devoted labourer has been called to his rest at 
 the early age of 47.
 
 94 PREACHING IN BAZAAR, DARJEELING. 
 
 hoary with the snows of ages, stood out boldly against the 
 sky, towering over all his fellows. Mount Everest, the 
 highest peak in the world, is to be seen about six miles 
 from Darjeeling, but my time would not admit of my 
 going. On my way back I stopped at the preaching-place 
 in the bazaar, and heard a Nepalese convert preaching 
 in the Nepalese tongue. The preaching-place was quite 
 full. Sunday is the day for bazaar preaching, as it is 
 market-day, and the people flock in from all directions. 
 The bazaar was quite crowded. Nepalese, Bhutias, Lepchas, 
 Bengalis, Mahommedans, and even a few Chinamen and 
 Europeans, were to be seen walking about in all directions. 
 It was certainly a grand opportunity to preach the gospel, 
 and it was being well taken advantage of by this energetic 
 little Nepalese Christian, who had a most attentive audience. 
 The people often buy books and portions of Scripture and 
 carry them away to their homes. 
 
 The most of the converts as yet are from the Nepalese 
 and Lepchas (the latter have no caste), but the Nepalese 
 seem to be the most satisfactory Christians. The Bhutias, 
 many of whom are lamas or priests, have as yet scarcely 
 been touched by the preaching. At the evening service 
 I again joined the native Christians, and was kindly allowed 
 the privilege of addressing them. This I did partly in 
 Hindi and partly in Hindustani. Before the service was 
 over Mr. Turnbull came in, having but just returned from 
 an out-station, where he had been conducting service for a 
 little handful of Christians, and joining them in the Com- 
 munion. He had been away all day, from early morning. 
 In visiting the different missions there is scarcely anything 
 which strikes one so forcibly as the undermanned state 
 of most of them ; and this is especially true of the missions 
 of the Church of Scotland, with perhaps the single exception 
 of the Calcutta mission. Our missionaries are all over- 
 worked, and in many instances just because of their own
 
 UNDERMANNED. 95 
 
 faithfulness. The Lord is abundantly blessing their labours, 
 and by reason of the very blessing that they have received 
 their hands are so full that they cannot possibly overtake 
 all that they have got to do ; and yet they stick at it nobly. 
 All honour to them ! But what shall we say of the church 
 that allows them to be thus overburdened ? I speak as 
 a member of the Church of Scotland, so I may be allowed 
 to speak more freely. When shall we, as a Church, be 
 fully awake to our responsibilities? When shall we be 
 alive to our glorious privileges ? The Lord is opening the 
 windows of heaven, and is pouring out upon us a blessing. 
 He is opening the doors of heathen homes, and the hearts 
 of heathen men and women, that we may enter in and 
 claim them for Jesus ; and should we prove unworthy 
 of the trust, we shall be set aside, and others more worthy 
 than we will be given the work. The bulk of the Christians 
 of this mission are quite independent of mission funds. 
 Some of them work in the tea gardens, of which there are 
 very many all over this neighbourhood; and others are 
 earning their livelihood in their own homes. There are 
 many out-stations, and many catechists are planted out 
 in the district. Altogether, the mission is being vigorously 
 worked, and new ground has now been taken up in the 
 Terai, at the foot of the hills. 
 
 There is a busy Mission Press, which prints both in 
 English and the vernaculars ; a monthly newspaper in 
 Hindi, and an English local supplement to Life and Work, 
 issue from it regularly. A grammar and dictionary in 
 Nepalese, by Mr. Turnbull, are at present passing through 
 it, and are to be published by the ist of March. There 
 are constantly being sent forth from it portions of the 
 word of God, so that this Press must be a great power for 
 good. It was started by Mr. Macfarlane, who, as I have 
 already said, was the originator of the mission ; and it was 
 while he and Miss Macfarlane were carrying on the work
 
 96 IMPORTANT POSITION OF THE MISSION. 
 
 atone that the tide of blessing set in, which has ever since 
 continued to flow. A Total Abstinence Society has been 
 set on foot by Mr. Turnbull, which now numbers twenty- 
 four members. Regular evangelistic work is being carried 
 on among the coolies in the tea-gardens. These coolies are 
 numbered by thousands, and have amongst them Christians 
 from other parts of India, such, for instance, as Chutia 
 Nagpore, and Santalistan ; so that it must be at once seen 
 what an important position this mission has to fill, and 
 what a help it must be to other societies in thus looking 
 after, to a small extent, at all events, the spiritual interests 
 of their scattered sheep. But the question that forces itself 
 upon one is, How is this all-important work, with all its 
 various ramifications, to be carried on by two men, and 
 what is to become of the new mission to Independent 
 Sikkim? We require three more able and devoted men 
 here at once, and that will be but a beginning ; there must 
 be more to follow. 
 
 Owing to the shortness of my stay in Darjeeling I was 
 unable to get any details of the Zenana mission work ; but 
 I am happy to say it has been begun, and is now being 
 carried on by Miss C. A. Reid and Miss L. A. Mackintosh, 
 in connection with the same mission. 
 
 January 24. Left Darjeeling after breakfast, and, after 
 a pleasant journey down, reached Calcutta next day at 
 12.50 p.m. 
 
 January 26. Paid a farewell visit to the Leper Asylum, 
 and left for Bhagulpore that afternoon. Reached Bhagul- 
 pore next morning about 4, when I was met by Mr. Grant's 
 brbugham and a kind note of welcome. I was at once 
 driven out to Mr. Grant's beautiful house, and on arrival 
 felt so fresh that I did not go to bed, but took the quiet 
 opportunity to get arrears of writing finished oft". After 
 chhoti-hazri, Mr. Grant showed me all over the indigo 
 factory, which was most interesting; and afterwards he
 
 BRAVE ENGLISH GIRLS. 97 
 
 kindly placed a carriage at my disposal to make calls. I 
 called at the C. M. S. house, but, unfortunately, Mr. and 
 Mrs. Weber were from home. I then called upon the 
 ladies of the Zenana Mission (C. E. Z. M. S.), and heard a 
 good deal about their work. Amongst other things, they 
 told me that there are very many lepers in and around 
 Bhagulpore, and that there is great need for an asylum. 
 One of the ladies is a doctor (Miss Butler), and has a most 
 interesting work. Miss Pinniger, another of the ladies, 
 told me of a sad case of leprosy in one of her zenanas. 
 Mr. Grant has kindly promised to help us in establishing a 
 leper asylum here if it can be managed. 
 
 Left Bhagulpore at 9.35 p.m., after a very pleasant day, 
 and started for Patna, where I arrived on the 28th January, 
 at 6 in the morning. I drove at once to the zenana 
 mission-house, where Miss Gregory and Miss Redmayne, 
 of the Indian Female Normal School Society, are at present 
 in charge of the mission, having relieved Miss Abraham 
 and Miss Dickenson, who had to leave a short while ago 
 through ill-health. The city of Patna has a population of 
 1 70,000, mostly Mahommedans (it is said to be nine miles 
 long) ; and in the midst of this vast population these two 
 brave English girls are the only witnesses for Christ ! I 
 felt it an honour and a privilege to spend a day with 
 them, and much enjoyed conducting morning worship for 
 them. The native servants were assembled, and I spoke 
 in Hindustani. This was the first place on this tour that 
 I was able to speak in pure Hindustani, and it was a great 
 relief, and made me feel at home once more. 
 
 A short while since there was considerable excitement 
 amongst the Mahommedans regarding the teaching of the 
 Bible by the lady missionaries, and huge placards were 
 posted over the city, calling on the "faithful" to have 
 nothing to do with the ladies, and not to allow their women 
 and girls to be taught by them. Most of the zenanas were 
 
 G
 
 98 BENARES. 
 
 closed, and the ladies, Miss Dickenson and Miss Abraham, 
 had a good deal of trouble ; but, nevertheless, stood nobly 
 to their post. There is great need for a lady medical 
 missionary to join the ladies at present working here; and 
 this want will, I earnestly trust, soon be supplied. How 
 much such isolated, faithful workers for Christ need our 
 sympathy and prayers ! 
 
 January 29. Left Patna at 9.33 a.m., and arrived at 
 Benares at 4 p.m., when I at once drove to the house of 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ewen, of the Baptist Mission, whose guest I 
 was during my stay. 
 
 What Mecca is to the Mahommedan, what Jerusalem is 
 to the Jew, that is Benares to the Hindu. It is considered 
 so holy, that even a Christian dying there would stand 
 a fair chance of going to heaven ! The ancient name of 
 the city was Kashi, and to this day the Hindu, in speaking 
 of the city, will call it Kashi Ji, or Lord Kashi. It is said 
 to be the most ancient city in existence, and can be traced 
 back as far as 1200 B.C.; "but even at that early date 
 it was an authentic fragment of the oldest past." The 
 city is 475 miles north-west from Calcutta, and contains 
 over 200,000 inhabitants. It is built on the bank of the 
 sacred Ganges. It may be said to be a city of idols, 
 temples, and priests. There are 1480 temples many of 
 which, however, are merely shrines and about as many 
 idols or gods, of which Shiva is the one most in favour, 
 consequently one sees his symbol (the trident) over many 
 of the temples. 
 
 Benares is a most interesting city to visit, especially when 
 one can do so under such an able guide as I had. Mr. 
 Ewen, who is himself the writer of an excellent guide to 
 the city and its surroundings, was good enough to take 
 me round and show me everything worth seeing. We saw 
 some most interesting, some most disgusting, and some 
 most melancholy sights. This is indeed a stronghold of
 
 A SECRET BELIEVER. 99 
 
 idolatry, and one upon which mission-work has as yet made 
 but little impression. It is a veritable Athens a "city 
 wholly given up to idolatry." And yet even here there 
 have been some precious trophies won for Christ. About 
 three years ago Mr. Ewen baptised a Mahommedan who 
 has since that time undergone a most terrible persecution, 
 indeed, it is going on still ; but, notwithstanding it all, he 
 holds firm to his profession, though his life has been made 
 almost a burden to him. Another case Mr. Ewen told 
 me of was that of a secret believer who had been a 
 Mahommedan, but who on his death-bed called all his 
 friends round him, and fearlessly declared himself a Chris- 
 tian. This was not told to the missionaries at the time, 
 but has leaked out since. Talking of secret believers, 
 there is no doubt that there are many such Josephs and 
 Nicodemuses in India, some of whom will, like them, 
 eventually have the courage of their convictions, and come 
 out and confess Christ, while there are very .many who may 
 never have that courage. And yet we must not despise 
 these " little ones," or perhaps I should be more correct in 
 calling them weak ones. There is one thing I feel sure of, 
 that all who have had any experience of what it involves 
 for a convert from certain sections of the community in 
 India to confess Christ by public baptism will be lenient in 
 their judgment regarding these timid ones. I have lately 
 heard of one of these believers, who can scarcely be called 
 a secret believer since he makes no secret of the fact that 
 he believes on Jesus. He reads God's Word, and holds 
 family worship in his own house; and -this worship is of 
 such a nature, that another native who was on a visit with 
 him was so struck by it, and so affected by what he heard 
 in that house, that he was led to Christ, and has since 
 been baptised ; while the other, at whose house he learnt 
 the truth, still remains in name a heathen, while in heart 
 a Christian.
 
 loo BENARES: ITS MISSIONS. 
 
 January 30. A quiet, happy day, thank God, a day 
 of rest. I was privileged to conduct evening service in 
 English in the Baptist Chapel, where Christians of other 
 denominations gather. 
 
 There are many missionary societies working here ; the 
 C. M. S. has a large school of 400 boys, with a college 
 department, a Christian village, and a Girls' Normal School 
 and Orphanage. The Baptist, the London, and the Wes- 
 leyan Missionary Societies are all hard at work; and the 
 Indian Female Normal School Society has interesting 
 zenana and village work, and also take part in the C. M. S. 
 Normal School at Sigra. 
 
 Yesterday I visited the District Benevolent Institution, in 
 which a few rooms at one corner are given to lepers. I 
 found eight poor souls, six men and two women, and spoke 
 a few words of comfort to them ; they seemed very pleased 
 to see me. Mr. Ewen tells me that there are many lepers 
 in Benares, but nothing is being done for them. 
 
 Before leaving Benares I spent an hour at a missionary 
 "At Home," at Mrs. Hewlett's London Missionary Society, 
 where I met many Christian workers of different societies. 
 I was very sorry that I had to leave early in order to catch 
 my train to Faizabad. 
 
 One occasionally sees very grotesque signboards over the 
 shops of natives who affect English, but who really know 
 nothing of it ; but I have never seen anything to equal two 
 that I have heard of as being to be seen in Muttra " An 
 English Loafer " being over a baker's shop, and " D d B kx 
 M k r " over an undertaker's ! One should know a little of 
 Hindustani to be able to appreciate the latter. In writing 
 Hindustani the vowels are often all left out, and must be 
 supplied by the reader, and so in this case " D d B kx 
 M k r " stands for " Dead Bokx (peculiar spelling) Maker ! " 
 
 February i. Faizabad. It is more than seventeen years 
 since I have been here, and how gracious and wonderful
 
 7. F. N. S., FA IZ A BAD. 101 
 
 have been the Lord's dealings with me all those years ! 
 Truly I have reason to pause for a moment and praise His 
 holy name ! I arrived here at six this morning, and was 
 met by Miss Fallon's servant, who conducted me to the 
 Dak bangalow, which is situated alongside the beautiful 
 tamarind avenue, and was just then surrounded by hundreds 
 of monkeys and their babies ; some of the males were very 
 fierce, and showed fight when I attempted to drive them 
 away. They are worshipped and petted by the Hindus, 
 and as a consequence become almost unbearable. I once 
 saw a very amusing incident whilst preaching in the bazaar 
 in Chumba. Whilst waiting for my turn to speak to the 
 people, I happened to look up at some monkeys which 
 were on the roof of a house opposite ; one of the creatures 
 had managed to get hold of a large and heavy loose slate, 
 and this he was pushing quietly towards the eaves of the 
 house, while every now and then he looked over with a 
 fiendish grin to see if he could possibly so arrange that it 
 should fall just as some one was passing under. This was 
 not likely to supply a text for my preaching, though there 
 are some who could no doubt have turned it to good 
 account. 
 
 I went over to breakast with Miss Fallon and Miss 
 Harris, of the I. F. N. S., and was greatly pleased to find 
 them looking so bright and happy. They seem to be doing 
 a splendid work, and have now extended it to Ajhudia and 
 Jaunpore ; and so much is the work increased, that Jaunpore 
 is to be taken up as a separate station, and another 
 missionary is to be sent out by the society. These ladies 
 seem to have the happy knack of getting on with Europeans 
 and natives alike. They have made friends with all, and 
 are supported by all in their work. I see by their last 
 Report that they are regularly visiting in 140 zenanas, and 
 that they have six schools, two of which are in Ajhudia. 
 They have two such nice native Christian girls working
 
 102 A RETROSPECT. 
 
 with them as assistants. These girls have come from that 
 excellent institution the Dehra Christian Girls' School a 
 school of the American Presbyterian Mission. 
 
 In the afternoon Miss Fallen very kindly drove me out 
 to see some of the familiar old places. I saw the old tomb, 
 used for many years as the C. M. S. mission-house, where, 
 under the charm of dear old Mr. Reuther's influence, I 
 received my first drawings towards missionary work. I saw 
 also the little prayer-room where I spent many a happy 
 half-hour with some of the Christian men of the nth Foot, 
 and where I made my first attempts at speaking in public. 
 
 We called upon Mr. and Mrs. Elliott, of the Wesleyan 
 Mission, and on speaking to them of the Leper Mission 
 found Mr. Elliott greatly interested. He would like, if 
 possible, to do something for the lepers in Faizabad. 
 
 Spent a most delightful evening with the Zenana Mission 
 ladies (it was still cold enough to close the doors and 
 sit round the fire), and left at 10 o'clock for my train, 
 which was to take me on to Lucknow.
 
 LUC KNOW. 103 
 
 CHAPTER XL 
 LUCKNOW, BAREILLY,-AND ALMORA. 
 
 Febriiary 2. Arrived in Lucknovv at 2.35 this morning, 
 and remained in the station till the 4 a.m. train had arrived, 
 after which I lay down in an easy chair in the waiting-room, 
 and putting my feet on a box slept soundly till 7.30, when 
 I got up, and after a good wash and a change, and my 
 chhoti-hazri in the refreshment-room, I sallied forth for 
 the day. 
 
 Drove first to the C. M. S. Mission-house at the Zuhur 
 Bakhsh, and saw Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, with whom I was to 
 spend the day; and from there went in to see Miss Dr. 
 Alice Marston, of the I. F. N. S., and met also Mr. and 
 Mrs. de St. Dalmas, of the Anglo-Indian Evangelization 
 Society, this being the second time I have met them on 
 this tour. Miss Alice Marston is a fully-qualified lady 
 medical practitioner, and has a most deeply-interesting 
 mission work going on. There is no doubt on my mind 
 but that medical missions are going to be, in God's hands, 
 the key to the position. They will open doors and hearts 
 in a way in which nothing else can. The I. F. N. S. have 
 several other lady workers here, who are carrying on 
 zenana work. I had the pleasure of meeting them all. 
 
 I also called upon the Methodist Episcopal Missionaries, 
 and upon Mr. Cockin, English chaplain. The latter was 
 most kind, and at once volunteered to go with me to find 
 out the " King's Poorhouse " a place for the blind, maimed, 
 leprous, infirm, and the helpless from old age. It is the
 
 104 THE KING'S POORHOUSE. 
 
 outcome of munificent native charity. The following is the 
 printed account of it handed me at the institution itself: 
 
 MEMO. 
 
 "In the year 1243 Hijree, corresponding to the year 1827 
 A.D., king Naseer-ood-deen Hyder ascended the throne of 
 Oudh, and in 1247-48 Hijree, corresponding to 1831 A.D., 
 established the Poorhouse and City Hospital, under the 
 superintendence of Doctor Logan, the then residency 
 surgeon at Ismailgunj, and for the support of these institu- 
 tions invested large sums of money. For the Poorhouse 
 a sum of three lacs of rupees, the interest of which amounts 
 to a thousand rupees monthly, was set apart, and drawn 
 under guarantee of the Government of India as per letter 
 dated i2th December, 1853; but in January, 1874, with 
 savings from interests, some new Government promissory 
 notes were purchased and added to the principal, raising 
 the interest to over noo rupees a month, which is now 
 drawn monthly; while since July, 1858, 1000 rupees per 
 month were drawn by successive city magistrates, who held 
 the executive charge of the Poorhouse under the orders 
 of the commissioner. The management and control of 
 the institution have been ever since vested in a city magis- 
 trate, under a committee of European officers, the com- 
 missioner being president, and deputy commissioner vice- 
 president, until lately some new native members have also 
 been added. This institution was intended as a relief 
 house for the blind, maimed, leprous, infirm, and the 
 helpless from old age, &c., and chiefly to prevent begging 
 in the streets. Out-door relief was also to be afforded to a 
 select few. There are at this day 148 inmates in the Poor- 
 house who receive food and clothing. The out-door charity 
 list amounts to 162 persons, who get monthly cash payments 
 averaging 2 rupees each. Seventy-nine rupees per month 
 is made over to the chaplain as share of the Christian poor.
 
 THE LEPER HOUSE. 105 
 
 Every Sunday a dole of grain is distributed to from 2000 
 to 4000 poor people, who are from age or illness unable to 
 work. The native members are Agai Saheb, Daroga Wajid 
 Aly, Roy Bindrabun, Narain Dass, and Moonshee Fazul 
 Hossein. 
 
 "The general management and superintendence are 
 gratuitously performed by Moonshee Fuzl Hossein, for 
 which he has received the thanks of the chief commissioners, 
 conveyed to him in extract paragraph 10 of General Ad- 
 ministration Report of Chief Commissioner, No. 4413, 
 dated i;th September, 1873. 
 
 (Signed) F. M. NEWBERY, 
 
 LUCKNOW, City Magistrate. 
 
 1st June, 1875." 
 
 Inside the general enclosure there is still another en- 
 closure, over the entrance-door of which is written " Leper 
 House." It is a nice clean place, and the lepers seem 
 comfortable ; but there is no attempt at the separation of 
 the sexes, other than their being allowed separate rooms. 
 The place would hold about thirty, but there were only 
 eleven in it five men and six women ; and there was also 
 a little boy, the son of one of the lepers. This child had 
 the disease fully developed already. Poor child ! he might 
 perhaps have been saved could he have been removed from 
 his afflicted parents in time. There was one married couple, 
 both lepers. There was a man who told me that he was 
 absolutely without feeling in every part of the body ; that 
 is, on the surface. I saw a case of white leprosy, with the 
 more malignant form just commencing. 
 
 Mr. Clancy, of the Methodist Episcopal Mission, was 
 much interested on hearing of this place, and told me that, 
 if possible, he would commence Christian work amongst 
 the inmates ; but he has since been transferred to another 
 station. I earnestly trust that some of the Lord's children
 
 106 LUC KNOW TO RANI BACH. 
 
 in Lucknow may be led to take up this work. I passed a 
 leper (a very bad case) on horseback to-day. "A beggar 
 on horseback !" Sometimes they are able to make enough 
 by begging to buy an old broken-down pony, and so they 
 get carried about from place to place, and the wretched 
 "tat" has to live upon what he can pick up by the 
 way. 
 
 February 3. Left Lucknow by the 4 a.m. train, having 
 lain down for a few hours at the station during the night. 
 Arrived at Bareilly at 9.32 a.m., and, after breakfast at the 
 station, left by the narrow-gauge railway for Katgodam, at 
 the foot of the hills. At Haldwani, the last station before 
 Katgodam, Dr. Dease, of the American Episcopal Methodist 
 Mission, got in with me, having come over to the station 
 on purpose to meet me, and we went on together. After 
 leaving the train at Katgodam, there is a distance of three 
 miles to be traversed before reaching the Dak bangalow of 
 Ranibagh, from which place the ascent to Nynee Tal and 
 Bheem Tal, &c., commences. This we travelled in a tonga, 
 which Sir Henry Ramsay had kindly sent down to the 
 station to meet us. On arrival at Ranibagh, Sir Henry was 
 standing in the verandah of the Dak bangalow, and im- 
 mediately came forward to welcome me. We three dined 
 together, and had a most delightful evening, and a good 
 talk over the lepers of Kumaon, of whom there are very 
 many, this region being one of the worst in India. Sir 
 Henry and Dr. Dease are of opinion that there are openings 
 for several asylums in these hills, notably at Bageshwar, a 
 celebrated place of pilgrimage, about twenty miles from 
 Almora. 
 
 I am now on my way to Almora and Pithoragarh, to visit 
 the Leper Asylums at those places ; the former is thirty-six 
 miles from this (Ranibagh), and the latter is fifty miles 
 further on. The nucleus of the Almora Asylum was got 
 together by Sir Henry Ramsay just fifty years ago; but it
 
 COMMENCEMENT OF ALMORA LEPER ASYLUM. 107 
 
 was not till the year 1849 that a permanent home was 
 established for them. It was with Sir Henry that the first 
 conception of an asylum for the lepers of Kumaon originated. 
 It was he who formed the institution in 1849, an d for a 
 long time he met the expenses of it himself. Ever since 
 that time he has continued his interest in the spiritual and 
 temporal welfare of the lepers, and he has just now assisted 
 us, by his wise advice and personal help, in establishing a 
 new asylum at Pithoragarh. 
 
 Shortly after the commencement of the Almora Asylum, 
 Mr. and Mrs. Budden, of the London Missionary Society, 
 arrived in Almora ; and as soon as Mrs. Budden was able 
 to speak the language, she commenced work in the asylum. 
 Lovingly, faithfully, and tenderly she and her husband 
 ministered to the lepers in the gospel. They had them 
 taught to read the Scriptures in Hindi ; and, by the kind 
 help of the late General Parsons, a catechist was placed 
 amongst them. Mrs. Budden was not permitted to see the 
 result of her labours down here. It was not till after she 
 had been taken to her rest, and her husband was away in 
 England for rest and change, that, in the years 1864 and 
 1865, the work of grace commenced. When Mr. Budden 
 left for home, his place was taken by Mr. Hewlett, of the 
 same society, who is at present working in Benares. In a 
 paper lately written by him for The Indian Missionary, 
 the following account is given of this deeply-interesting 
 movement : 
 
 " My first visit, in January, 1864, fully persuaded rne that 
 a large number of the inmates possessed a considerable 
 knowledge of the Bible, and felt deeply interested in its 
 teachings. While addressing them from the top of a little 
 plot of elevated ground in the enclosure of the asylum, as 
 they sat before me in semicircular rows, and endeavouring 
 to make them feel the adaptation of the rich blessings of
 
 Io8 F7RSTFKUITS. 
 
 the Saviour's love to fit even them, afflicted as they were, 
 for a glorious eternity, I was delighted to find that the ready 
 answers given by some of the lepers to the questions I 
 occasionally put to them made it evident that much of 
 what I said was well understood by them, and awakened 
 within them deep sympathy and gratitude. But a still 
 more precious testimony was borne at the same meeting 
 to the fact that so many years of Christian labour amongst 
 the lepers had not been in vain. When at the close of my 
 discourse upon the Saviour's love I entreated all present to 
 delay no longer in yielding themselves to Him, an elderly 
 man, Musuwa by name, who had been many years in the 
 asylum, and was one of the two chiefs chosen by the other 
 lepers to act as patriarchs of the whole community, rose 
 up, and with a beaming face and a firm glad voice replied : 
 ' Since Christ has done so much for us, how can I withhold 
 myself from doing whatever He wishes?' On conversing, 
 after the breaking up of the meeting, with this leper aside, 
 I was convinced that he had for some time possessed a 
 tolerably clear understanding of the word of God, rejected 
 idolatry in his heart, and faintly hoped to enjoy in some 
 degree the blessings of Christianity, but had hardly felt 
 sure that it was open to him, poor leper as he was, to cast 
 himself with confidence on the mercy of Christ and receive 
 baptism. In my subsequent interviews with him, instead 
 of meeting with disappointment, I could trace a deepening 
 of his former impressions and an increasing desire to realize 
 the promised blessings of the gospel. At the first of my 
 visits to the asylum after his confession, two other lepers 
 also, who were too diffident to speak on the former occasion, 
 now expressed their desire to become open followers of the 
 Lord Jesus. One of them, Bachchuwa, who was quite as 
 intelligent as Musuwa, had, previously to joining the asylum, 
 performed long and wearisome pilgrimages, and lavished 
 presents upon Brahmans, in the hope of gaining deliverance
 
 FIKSTFRUHS. 109 
 
 from the disease and stain of leprosy, which he believed, in 
 accordance with the Hindu doctrine of transmigration of 
 souls, to be the bitter fruit of sins committed by him in a 
 former state of existence. But when he had found it all to 
 no purpose, and came at last to the asylum, he felt the 
 Christian instruction he received there kindling within him 
 a glimmering hope of something better than he had heard 
 of before. The other, Sunwaru, was a more recent arrival, 
 and his acquaintance with the Scriptures was less extensive. 
 But it became evident that all three found in Christianity 
 some consolation to their present suffering and despised 
 condition, and possessed a deep-rooted desire openly to 
 take their stand with the Lord's people. And as their 
 moral character was favourably witnessed to by the other 
 lepers, many of whom tried to oppose their baptism, there 
 appeared to me no reason to decline their request. Accord- 
 ingly, with deep gratitude to God for His converting and 
 comforting grace in Christ to these poor lepers, I welcomed 
 them by baptism, on Sunday morning, February i4th, 1864, 
 as firstfruits of the gospel from this asylum into the visible 
 Christian Church. 
 
 " So rapidly did the movement, which originated with 
 these three examples, spread amongst the rest of the lepers, 
 ever showing increasing proofs of its being the work of God's 
 blessed Spirit, that I had in the same year the unspeakable 
 joy of admitting to the Christian profession by baptism five 
 more lepers, three men and two women, Sunday, May 8th ; 
 thirteen more lepers, Sunday, August i4th; and thirty-two 
 more, twenty of whom were of the Brahman and Rajput 
 castes, Sunday, December nth, all of whom, though 
 manifesting different degrees of knowledge and faith, had 
 satisfied me as to their sincerity and earnestness in their 
 avowed determination to become followers of Christ. To 
 supply a convenient place for the assembling of these 
 converted lepers to unite in public worship, preparations
 
 no OPENING OF LEPER CHURCH. 
 
 were made, as soon as possible, to build a chapel on the 
 grounds of the asylum. To accomplish this object, our 
 kind and valued friends, General Parsons and Sir Henry 
 (then Colonel) Ramsay, so readily and liberally helped us, 
 that in little more than a year after the first baptisms a 
 good substantial building was erected for Christian worship, 
 to seat as many as accommodation was provided for in the 
 asylum. On Sunday, April i6th, 1865, I had the never-to- 
 be-forgotten pleasure of conducting in this chapel the 
 opening service, which was numerously attended, not only 
 by the baptised and unbaptised lepers of the asylum, but 
 by all the native Christians of Almora, and by several 
 European friends, who wished to show their Christian 
 sympathy with these leprous fellow-disciples in their being 
 favoured with a convenient, well-built chapel for assembling 
 as a church and congregation to worship the same God and 
 Father of our Lord Jesus Christ. The heart-cheering 
 character of this meeting was further enhanced at the close 
 by the baptism of twenty-eight more lepers who professed 
 to trust in the Saviour. Nor did this blessed movement 
 cease to advance. On Sunday, November 26th, 1865, 
 fifteen more lepers, who had expressed their desire for 
 baptism, were admitted by this Christian rite into the visible 
 band of Christ's followers, after the expiration of a sufficient 
 interval for our testing their character. So that the whole 
 number of the lepers baptised during the years of 1864 and 
 1865 was ninety-six, of whom fifteen were called away by 
 death, before the close of that period, to stand, we trust, 
 before the throne of God, having come out of their sad 
 affliction, and washed their robes, and made them white in 
 the blood of the Lamb." 
 
 In the next number of The Indian Missionary there is a 
 paper by Mr. Budden, in continuation of the subject of the 
 Almora Asylum, and honesty compels us to say that in it
 
 MANAGEMENT OF THE ASYLUM. 
 
 Mr. Budden gives a very sad account of the falling away of 
 some of those first converts ; he deals very faithfully with 
 the matter, and gives as his opinion of that falling away 
 that, in the first rush of converts, some were received too 
 hastily, and as a consequence afterwards proved themselves 
 unworthy ; nevertheless a wonderful work for God has been 
 done in that asylum, and has been going on steadily ever 
 since. In all 340 baptisms have taken place since its 
 establishment. In describing the institution Mr. Budden 
 says : 
 
 " The internal arrangements will be better understood 
 when it is known that the asylum buildings have been 
 erected on terraces levelled on the hillside, five of them 
 one above the other, and on each terrace there are separate 
 barracks of five small houses, each house to accommodate 
 two inmates. Of these the central terrace was set apart for 
 the married couples the two upper terraces for the single 
 women and the two lower ones for the men. There are 
 three barracks of five houses each, on each of the three 
 central terraces and on the upper and lower terraces, there 
 is at present only one barrack for each. The women's 
 terraces are separated from the others by a wall running 
 the whole length of the terrace, and in each of the 
 barracks the most respectable and trustworthy of the in- 
 mates is appointed as ' padhan ' or ' padhani/ who is held 
 responsible for the good conduct of the others in that 
 barrack, and is bound to report to the native superinten- 
 dent everything that may occur among them inconsistent 
 with the rules of the asylum. The 'padhans' and 
 'padhanis' jointly form a 'panchayat,' who adjudicate in 
 the first instance in all cases of irregularity, which are 
 reported in due course to the missionary by the native 
 superintendent. 
 
 " The daily routine is as follows : At sunrise the asylum
 
 DAILY ROUTINE. 
 
 chapel bell is rung foe. morning prayers, which are conducted 
 by the native superintendent, and all the inmates who are 
 able are expected to attend ; a register is taken of the daily 
 attendance. After this the school is held for those learning 
 to read, and those wishing to receive instruction in the 
 Scriptures. This generally lasts for one or two hours, 
 according to the season. Then the daily allowance of food 
 is divided amongst them by the ' banya,' and they disperse 
 to their own houses to cook and eat it. There are three 
 scales of the daily allowance of food given to the lepers. 
 The medium allowance is ten chitaks of rice, or 'attah,' 
 with condiments daily, which is given to those who are 
 unable to do any manual work. Those able and willing to 
 work in cultivating the ground, or in other ways, have 
 twelve chitaks; and those able, but not willing, have a 
 reduced allowance of eight chitaks only. While the food 
 is being distributed the native superintendent is present in 
 the asylum dispensary, to which Government grants an 
 annual indent of medicines ; and he attends to all cases 
 requiring treatment, of which a regular register is kept. 
 There is a special arrangement of warm baths, &c., for the 
 application of gurjun oil, but it is only brought into use for 
 those who are fitting subjects, and who wish for it. After 
 this, excepting those who engage in manual labour of any 
 kind for two or three hours daily, all the inmates are at 
 liberty to occupy themselves as they please, within the 
 limits of the rules of the asylum. 
 
 " Besides the daily morning prayers and the instruction 
 given in the school there are two regular services every 
 Sunday, one of which is generally taken by a missionary. 
 The Lord's-supper is administered monthly to those who 
 have been accepted as communicants, and there is a sepa- 
 rate weekly class for the women, which is taken generally 
 by my daughter, or in her absence by the wife of the native 
 superintendent. No special means are adopted to induce
 
 REPORT OF DRS. LEWIS AND CUNNINGHAM. 113 
 
 new arrivals in the asylum to receive baptism, or to persuade 
 those who have been baptized to become church members. 
 No difference whatever is made in the treatment of the in- 
 mates on their becoming Christians except that when they 
 die they receive Christian burial, with a religious service 
 which cannot be held with others. The Christians, however, 
 in the asylum converse with those newly-admitted, and it is 
 chiefly in this way that they are led to desire to share in 
 the enjoyment of Christian privileges ; they are then formed 
 into a class for special instruction, and every second year 
 or so a number of them receive baptism. One who was 
 formerly an inmate of this asylum was some time since 
 sent to act as a Christian teacher to the lepers in the 
 asylum at Dehra, and the accounts which have been re- 
 ceived of his services and success there have been highly 
 satisfactory. Many most gratifying instances have occurred, 
 and are constantly occurring, which show in various ways 
 the effectual working of the grace of God in the hearts and 
 lives, and also in the deaths, of these poor sufferers. 
 
 " When Drs. Lewis and Cunningham, by the appointment 
 of Government, made a thorough investigation some years 
 ago of all the cases in the asylum, in the report, which they 
 afterwards published, they mentioned that what had struck 
 them most was the happy, cheerful, and contented spirit of 
 all the inmates. It is the well-known effect of the malady 
 to produce the exactly opposite temper of mind; and 
 though it may be thought that this difference apparent in 
 the inmates of the asylum may be accounted for by their 
 more comfortable outward circumstances, it is a fact that 
 this did not show itself until after they had become Chris- 
 tians, and had in some measure learned by experience 'the 
 peace which passeth all understanding, which keeps their 
 hearts and minds in Christ Jesus.' One of the most 
 remarkable individual instances of this is the old man 
 Musuwa, mentioned by Mr. Hewlett, who has been in the 
 
 H
 
 114 
 
 MUSUWA. 
 
 asylum about forty years, and who has been physically quite 
 disabled and made totally blind by the disease, but his 
 mental faculties are still unimpaired ; and as he was the 
 first to ask for baptism, so he is always the foremost to 
 testify of' the grace of God which has been given to him, 
 and of his love to Him ' whom having not seen he loves, 
 and rejoices with joy unspeakable and full of glory.' 
 Many other similar, though less conspicuous, cases might 
 be mentioned, but it must not be concealed that others of a 
 different character do also occur."
 
 HOW A LEPER WAS BURIED. 115 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 ALMORA AND PITHORAGARH. 
 
 February 4. Sir Henry Ramsay has most kindly placed 
 his hill pony at my disposal for my journey to Almora and 
 Pithora, so I am quite independent of " dandies " and 
 "jampans" and other fearful inventions for conveying one 
 in these parts. 
 
 I left Ranibagh this morning at 8 a.m., and after a 
 delightful hour and a half arrived to breakfast at Bheemtal, 
 a charming lake embosomed in the hills. Left again after 
 breakfast, and arrived in the afternoon at Ramgarh, where 
 I am to spend the night. There is snow lying about, so 
 that it is very cold. Just before reaching this bungalow one 
 gets a magnificent view of the " Snows " if the day is clear. 
 
 Last night Dr. Dease gave me two instances from his 
 own experience of how great an outcast is the poor leper in 
 some places. He once saw some men dragging off the 
 body of a dead leper by means of a rope tied to one foot. 
 They dragged the body till they reached a great hole, into 
 which they pitched it, and covered it up with stones, as 
 they might have done to a dead dog. At another time a 
 leper died at the Asylum of Chandag (Pithora) shortly after 
 the place had been commenced, and none of the other 
 lepers even could be got to touch it ; so that Mr. Kirk, a 
 devoted Christian man, who was just then in charge of the 
 place, was obliged to dig the grave himself, and afterwards 
 to carry the body to it. This same feeling of dread and 
 aversion has run on from Bible days "And they buried
 
 Ii6 ARRIVAL AT ALMORA. 
 
 him (King Uzziah) ... in the field of the burial which 
 belonged to the kings ; for they said, He is a leper." 
 
 February 5. Started from Ramgarh after chhoti-hazri, 
 and, after a most delightful morning's ride to Peora Bangalow, 
 breakfasted; rested self and pony, and then started again 
 for Almora, where I arrived in the afternoon. I am staying 
 with the Buddens ; the other missionaries here are Mr. and 
 Mrs. Coley, and Mr. and Mrs. Taylor. Mr. Coley is now 
 in charge of the asylum, as poor Mr. Budden has been an 
 invalid for a very long time, and is, I fear, not likely to be 
 ever very strong again : he is wonderfully bright and cheery, 
 and it is quite a treat to sit and talk with him. He is as 
 much interested as ever in the lepers, but grieved that he 
 cannot now get to see them. 
 
 The first news that I heard was sad; viz., that leprosy 
 has broken out in one of the boys at the orphanage, and 
 he has been removed to the asylum. Here the experiment 
 has been tried of separating the children of leprous parents 
 from those parents, with of course the parents' consent, 
 and so far the experiment has turned out very successful ; 
 this being the first case after many years, indeed the only 
 case where the disease has appeared in any of the children. 
 The parents of this poor lad were both lepers one, the 
 mother, being still in the asylum. Miss Budden has asked 
 me to examine him very carefully when I pay my visit to 
 the asylum, I suppose in the hope that after all what has 
 appeared in him may not be leprosy. The next news I 
 heard was good ; viz., that twelve lepers are to be received 
 into the Church by baptism while I am here. 
 
 February 6. This has been a delightful day, thank God. 
 First, morning prayers in Mr. Budden's sick-room; afterwards, 
 service in Hindustani, in the city school building, conducted 
 by Mr. Coley; after which there was communion. I was 
 struck by seeing a native Christian girl presiding at the 
 harmonium ; she did it with such grace and ease, and the
 
 A HAPPY SUNDAY. 117 
 
 singing was very good. I think the ladies here have reason 
 to be deeply grateful to the good Master for the work He 
 has done through them. 
 
 In the afternoon Mr. Coley joined me in the asylum, and 
 we held a service in the church there for the lepers. I gave 
 the address, and he administered the communion. It was 
 a touching sight to see those poor sufferers remembering 
 the Lord's death. After this service Mr. Coley went away 
 to take part in the English service, and I remained in the 
 asylum for some time. I had a talk with old Musuwa (the 
 old man mentioned by Mr. Hewlett), who is as bright and 
 happy as ever ; he is, I think, the very oldest resident in the 
 asylum, and was the first to be baptised. I then spoke 
 with Kuri ; she is supported by a class of girls in Brighton, 
 and is a very interesting woman. She is one of the twelve 
 to be baptised on this day fortnight, when I hope to be 
 back from Pithoragarh. Poor thing, she is a bad case of 
 tubercular leprosy ; but her feet and hands, though much 
 swollen, are still intact. She is about twenty-eight years of 
 age, and was turned adrift by her husband on becoming a 
 leper. She has been two years in the asylum ; she seemed 
 very bright in the prospect of her baptism. I had a long 
 talk with poor little Marcus, Miss Budden's boy, who has 
 been sent down from the orphanage. He is undoubtedly a 
 leper, though he does not seem willing to admit it ; he seems 
 to be improving a little under Gurjan oil treatment, but that 
 will be only temporary, I fear. When examining him to-day 
 I turned round his hands to look at them, and observed 
 that there were long blisters on the insides of his fingers. 
 I asked him how he had got them, and at first he seemed 
 inclined to hide the truth from me, but on pressing him 
 about it he said that he had been warming his hands in 
 front of the fire, and had burnt them. I then asked him 
 if he had felt it, and he was obliged to confess that he had 
 not. There are two brothers here whose father was a leper.
 
 Ii8 SHOULD LEPERS MARRY? 
 
 This is a beautiful institution, and the management seems 
 to be excellent. There are only two married couples, but no 
 marriages are allowed to take place in the asylum. This 
 question of allowing lepers to marry is, as I have already 
 said, a very difficult one ; and in the meantime all we can 
 do is to discountenance it in every way in our power. In 
 every well-ordered institution for lepers the unmarried of 
 the sexes are kept strictly apart, and no marriages are 
 allowed to take place ; but often lepers will marry, and will 
 leave an asylum for the very purpose. They will then 
 wander about together for some years, and will often return 
 to the very same asylum, in a terrible condition physically, 
 with perhaps a couple of little children, and beg hard to be 
 re-admitted, and it is not easy to refuse them, and so they 
 outwit us. If Government were to interfere, there would 
 at once be raised the cry, " Interfering with the liberty of 
 the subject ! " yet I think this is a case in which, for the sake 
 of the welfare of the community at largCj the Government 
 would be justified in interfering. 
 
 February 8. Panwanaula Bangalow. Left Almora at 
 ii a.m., and arrived here at 3 p.m. The latter part of the 
 way it became intensely cold. This is a very lonely place, 
 and stands very high. 
 
 February 9. Naini Bangalow. This bangalow is nicely 
 situated, and is on a much lower level than Panwanaula, 
 consequently it is not nearly so cold here. The ride to-day 
 was a very pretty one, and I had a magnificent view of the 
 "Snows" for some time after leaving Panwanaula. I left 
 there at n a.m., and arrived here at 3.15 p.m., having 
 delayed about twenty minutes on the road. 
 
 February 10. Gangoli Haut Bangalow. Left Naini at 
 10.30 a.m., and arrived here at 4 p.m., having delayed 
 about forty minutes on the road. This was a long march, 
 but the scenery was very grand. There were some tre- 
 mendous ascents and descents, but the pony carried me
 
 NEGLECTED IDOLS. 119 
 
 right through. The situation of this bungalow is very 
 fine indeed. On one side there are some magnificent 
 old cedars, and in the midst of them a temple sacred 
 to Kali; but there are idols of every description lying 
 round, apparently quite uncared for. I was down there 
 just now, and finding a little broken idol lying quite 
 neglected, I asked one of the priests if I might have 
 it to take home and show to people in England. He said 
 that I was malik (master), and I could do as I liked. 
 I said that I would not take it by force, but that if they 
 would give it of their own free will I should like to have it 
 By this time I had the idol in my hand, and was turning it 
 round and round, and saying, " See, it is only a little old 
 broken thing. You had better let me have it." But 
 I could see that they were not pleased, so laid it down 
 again carefully, and said, "Well, if you will give it me 
 with your own hand I shall take it, otherwise I shall 
 not." They offered me flowers from the temple, but these 
 I utterly refused, as I knew well that were I to take them 
 it would be understood by them as doing homage to their 
 hideous idol. Finally, they prevailed on me to accept of 
 two oranges, which they assured me were very good ones. 
 The front of the temple was all besmeared with blood 
 the blood of the numerous sacrifices. Oh that their eyes 
 were open to see the living Sacrifice the only one for 
 sin and uncleanness ! From the front of this bungalow 
 there is a grand view right away over several valleys, and, 
 nestling in the bosom of a great mountain, you can see the 
 next bungalow (Bahns) ; and above that, on a level plateau, 
 is Chandag, where our new Leper Asylum is, and where 
 I hope to be by this time to-morrow ; while towering above 
 all the surrounding hills, and a little to the left, are to 
 be seen the peaks of the " Everlasting Snows." " These 
 are Thy works, O God." I do not think I have ever seen 
 such a wealth of beautiful ferns growing naturally as I have
 
 120 C HAND AC. 
 
 today; at almost every turn of the road I was coming on 
 some new variety. 
 
 February n. Chandag (Ptihoragarh}. Left Gongoli 
 Haut at 8 a.m., and after a splendid ride of four hours 
 arrived at Bahns Bangalow at 12, where I breakfasted, 
 rested myself and men, and the plucky little pony that has 
 carried me so well, for three hours, leaving again at 3 p.m. 
 The Bahns Bangalow is very prettily situated on the top of 
 a low hill, over a very fertile valley. There are farmhouses 
 all round surrounded by orange trees, at present hanging 
 with ripe fruit; and they are good oranges too, for I bought 
 some coming away and tasted for myself. At a short 
 distance from the bungalow I saw about twenty boys 
 assembled ; they were seated along a ridge near the road. 
 As I drew near a man came forward, who told me that 
 he was a teacher, and that this was Dease Sahib's school. 
 The ascents and descents to-day were most severe, some of 
 them almost impracticable to ordinary mortals ; but as my 
 pony is not an ordinary mortal, he took me up and down 
 bravely. After leaving Bahns there is a very severe ascent for 
 about a mile, but after that the road is excellent all the way 
 to Chandag, and very pretty, winding in and out through 
 oaks and rhododendrons; the latter are just beginning 
 to blossom. After a very pleasant ride of two hours 
 I arrived at Chandag at 5 p.m., and found several Christians 
 from Pithoragarh waiting to meet and welcome me. On 
 turning into the ground of the Chandag Asylum the first 
 thing that caught my eye was a large black signboard, and 
 written on it in Hindi, and in white lettering, were the 
 words, " God so loved the world, that He gave His only 
 begotten Son, that whosoever believeth in Him should not 
 perish, but have everlasting life." What a splendid sign- 
 board at the entrance to this abode of "living death!" 
 Thank God for such precious " words of life." 
 
 There is a neat little bungalow here, which at one time
 
 "MISS SAHIB DE GAL" 
 
 belonged to a European settler, and there are good out- 
 offices ; but now all is the property of the Mission to 
 Lepers in India, and the out-offices have been turned 
 into houses for the poor lepers. When I got inside the 
 house to-day I found a neat white cloth spread on the 
 table ; two candlesticks on the mantelpiece, with candles 
 arranged in them; a basket. of fresh eggs in one corner, 
 and some nice oranges in another ; and on looking to 
 the chaukidar (caretaker) for an explanation, he said to me, 
 "Miss Sahib de gai " (the Miss Sahib left them). And 
 then I found that Miss Budden, who is the only European 
 at Pithoragarh just now, had been so very kind as to come 
 up from there, some three or four miles, and had arranged 
 all these things for me. 
 
 At a short distance from this house, and at the back 
 of it, there is a place of worship being built for the 
 lepers. Dr. Dease is getting it done, but it was begun by 
 the late Mr. Kirk, of whom I have already spoken, and 
 who collected a great part of the funds. There are nineteen 
 inmates here now ten men and nine women. They 
 occupy a row of nine houses, built a little down the hill, 
 and to the north of this bungalow. In front of the houses, 
 and to the east, there is a fine row of blue gum trees, 
 so that they should have some shade from them in the 
 warm weather. There is a well-cut path from the main 
 road up to the house, lined with young cedar trees ; and on 
 the left, as you approach, is a piece of ground laid out for 
 a garden, and some hundreds of English fruit trees of 
 different sorts. There is a great deal of ground (not of 
 a very fertile nature, however), and some of it is laid out in 
 terraced fields for wheat, rice, &c. ; and as a pair of bullocks 
 is kept, we hope a considerable quantity of grain may 
 be raised in a good season. The whole stands on the top 
 of a ridge, with a beautifully -fertile valley sloping away 
 to the west, over which are dotted here and there the
 
 BEAUTIFUL PITHORA. 
 
 houses of the farmers. On the east, and away down 
 in the midst of a great amphitheatre of hills, stands 
 Pithoragarh. There are high hills all round, while to 
 the north are to be seen several peaks of the "Snows." 
 On the north end of the ridge on which Chandag stands, 
 and on a tableland, is a temple, at which a great mela 
 is held every August. Altogether, this place is beautifully 
 situated. Oh that Christ's kingdom may come in the hearts 
 of many poor lepers in this place ! There has been very 
 heavy snow here this year, and many of the trees have 
 suffered considerably, especially the Australian gum trees. 
 
 February 12. After breakfast had a chat with the lepers, 
 and then rode down to Pithoragarh to see Miss Budden. 
 Pithoragarh was formerly a small military outpost, where a 
 few Goorkha soldiers with their officers were stationed ; but 
 for some years past there have been no Europeans there 
 with the exception of the American Episcopal Methodist 
 Missionaries. During the summer months there are usually 
 several European families, as Pithora is looked upon as a 
 sanitarium ; but in the winter this " fort " (the " garh " of 
 PiiharagarA means fort) is often nobly held by one lady 
 missionary, Miss Budden, daughter of the Rev. J. H. 
 Budden, of the London Missionary Society. In order to 
 understand the complete isolation of the situation under 
 such circumstances it is necessary to say that in case of 
 sickness or any sudden emergency it would take an ordinary 
 traveller four days to reach Almora, and should heavy snow 
 have fallen it might be difficult to reach it at all. 
 
 It is true I found Miss Budden alone zs regards European 
 society, but with a very large family of native women and 
 girls to look after, amongst whom she is as much at home 
 as she would be amongst her own countrywomen, if indeed 
 she is not more so. She is a perfect mistress of Hindustani, 
 and can enter fully into the feelings of the people, and 
 sympathise with them in all their troubles. She is carrying
 
 WOMEN'S WORK. 123 
 
 on a work which is the only one of its kind I have seen 
 in India, though I am aware that somewhat similar schemes 
 have been started in other places, yet I think hers is 
 unique. She superintends a home and farm entirely man- 
 aged by native women and girls. With the single exception 
 of the ploughing, which is done by men, every other work 
 is performed by the women, and so admirably is all managed 
 that the work of the women is self-supporting. The girls, 
 however, and little children, have to be paid for by the 
 contributions of friends, as they are too young to work 
 much, and must spend a good portion of their time in 
 school. The women who come to this home are mostly 
 widows who have been ill-treated at home, and who have 
 fled for refuge to Miss Budden. Then there are others; 
 such, for instance, as the wife of one of our poor lepers. 
 There is a little baby girl whose mother is a hopeless leper 
 in the asylum. Soon after the mother's admission this little 
 one was born, and the poor mother gave it up to Miss 
 Budden, in order, I suppose, if possible, to save it from 
 becoming a victim to the terrible disease which had taken 
 such a fatal hold upon herself. Then there are a mother 
 and five children, whose husband and father, as already 
 stated, is an inmate of the asylum. The children are four 
 girls and a boy. Besides these there are some girls, the 
 daughters of lepers. 
 
 Miss Budden is a good friend to all the villagers round, 
 and seems to have a great influence over them. There are 
 twenty-three women on the farm who all look up to her 
 as their mother. I was much struck by the truly Christian 
 tone which pervades everything. Miss Budden believes in 
 conversion and the power of prayer, and, as a consequence, 
 has many conversions amongst her beloved women, and 
 many answers to prayer. She has a heart full of sympathy 
 for oppressed womankind generally, and, indeed, for all 
 suffering and needy ones. She is just now interested in
 
 124 SUNDAY-SCHOOL IN THE HIMALAYAS. 
 
 the erection of a windmill, which is arriving piece by piece, 
 carried by men over these terrible mountain paths all the 
 way from the plains at Katgodam. It has been sent her 
 by friends from America, and is, I fancy, the first thing of 
 its kind ever seen in the Himalayas. 
 
 In the evening I returned to my mountain perch at 
 Chandag for the night, having given a promise to Miss 
 Budden to spend the best part of to-morrow with her, and 
 conduct the Sunday service for the native Christians. 
 
 February 13. Chandag, 9 a.m. A heavenly morning. 
 I have just been feasting my eyes on the snowy range, not 
 a cloud on them this morning, and such a grand view as 
 one gets of them from this bungalow. 6.30 p.m. This 
 has been a very happy day; I have enjoyed precious 
 privileges, and have received much blessing. Left Chandag 
 at 10, and arrived at Pithora just as Miss Budden's Sunday- 
 school of women and girls was assembling; besides her 
 own women and girls, of whom there were a great many, 
 there were many women from the villages around. I believe 
 she has the names of about sixty such women on the roll. 
 Miss Budden seemed quite at home amongst them all. 
 She evidently speaks to them out of a very full and sym- 
 pathetic heart. There was first a hymn, then Miss Budden 
 engaged in prayer, at the end of which all joined in the 
 Lord's prayer. They were then divided into classes, and 
 after a while all assembled again to be questioned on the 
 day's lesson. This I had the privilege of doing. After 
 this there was another hymn, and then Miss Budden 
 again engaged in prayer, all repeating after her. This 
 closed the Sunday-school ; and then all (including the 
 men and boys), except the village women, who returned 
 to their homes, assembled for morning service, which I con- 
 ducted. Service over, had a most delightful stroll with Miss 
 Budden, going up to the top of the hill where the windmill 
 is to be erected, and then returned to her house for " tiffin ;"
 
 "TWO OR THREE . . . IN MY NAME." 125 
 
 after which, joined by one of her native helpers, a sweet 
 Christian girl, we had a special season of prayer and reading 
 together, which will, I think, be long remembered by us all. 
 I then left for Chandag again, as I had my poor lepers on 
 my mind. Arriving at five o'clock, I immediately assembled 
 the lepers at the back of their houses in the sun for it had 
 not yet gone down, and I knew they would feel the cold 
 if they sat in the shade and had a very precious half-hour 
 with them. After prayer I told them the story of the fall 
 and the grand plan of redemption, taking for my text 
 John iii. 16. Most of them listened with great attention, 
 and seemed quite to take in all that I said. It was a happy 
 close to a very happy day.
 
 126 A BRIDE, NOT A CORPSE! 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 ALMORA, BAREILLY, RURKI, SAHARANPORE, 
 AND DEHRA. 
 
 February 17. Almora. I have had a very pleasant trip 
 back from Pithoragarh, arriving this afternoon. One day 
 on the way back I saw something being carried by two 
 men ; it was slung on a pole and wrapped round in red 
 cloth. I took it to be a corpse, as I had seen one carried 
 in this manner, except not in red, a few days before; and 
 so I asked an old man, who was standing near, if it was a 
 corpse. " No, sahib," he said, " it will be a bride ; a corpse 
 would not be covered with red ! " And so it proved to be ; 
 for on the men laying down their burden, and carefully 
 unfolding the red cloth, to my astonishment out stepped 
 the daintiest little morsel of humanity, in the shape of a 
 little girl about ten years of age : she was returning after 
 her first marriage to her parents' house. 
 
 February 18. Almora. I have visited the Mission 
 School to-day; it has now got a College Department, and 
 teaches up to the F. A. standard. Two new buildings have 
 been added by the Sadar Amin, in honour of Sir Henry 
 Ramsay, and it is called the Ramsay College. Mr. Taylor 
 kindly showed me over ; there are about five hundred boys, 
 and there are four branch schools as well. I also visited 
 the Christian Girls' and Boys' homes ; in the Girls' Home I 
 saw little Miriyam, who is being supported by the S. S. 
 children of the Mariners' Church, Kingstown. She is a very 
 engaging little thing, about eight I should say. When I laid
 
 POOR LITTLE MARCUS! 127 
 
 my hand on her shoulder she nestled up to me in such a 
 confiding way, as much as to say, " I understand, you are a 
 friend." She sent a salaam and love to the friends at the 
 Mariners ; but as she was very shy about speaking, I could 
 not get anything more from her. There are some very 
 nice Christian girls in the home, so ladylike and gentle in 
 manner, and true Christians I believe. 
 
 February 19. Miss Mary Budden and I have had a sad 
 experience with poor little Marcus to-day. After breakfast I 
 was out in the garden, when I suddenly became aware of 
 the fact that Marcus was standing near me. Up to a short 
 while ago he was living in the Boys' Home, but on develop- 
 ing signs of leprosy he was, as I have already said, sent down 
 to the Leper Asylum, but was not treated as one of the 
 ordinary inmates; he was allowed to keep apart, and his 
 food was regularly sent down to him from the home; he 
 has however now been sent word that he can no longer 
 receive his food from the home, but must be taken on the 
 strength of the asylum, and be treated as the other inmates, 
 and it was this news which brought him up from the asylum 
 to-day. Poor child, I think he had buoyed himself up with 
 the hope that it might after all turn out to be a false alarm, 
 and that he would get better and return to the home, where 
 he had spent so many happy years of his young life. For 
 some little time I could not prevail on him to tell me what 
 was the matter, or why he had come up from the Asylum, 
 although I had my suspicions; but at last he fairly broke 
 down, and sobbed out, " Oh, sahib, I don't wish to go to the 
 Leper Asylum ! " I was obliged to call out Miss Budden, 
 as I was unable to pacify him. We comforted him as well 
 as we were able, and made his fall a little easier, by telling 
 him that we would allow him a room for himself, and a 
 little bit of ground to make into a garden ; and then Miss 
 Budden promised him a present of a pet rabbit, and so we 
 soothed him for the time being; but, poor child, he did
 
 128 AFTER MANY DAYS. 
 
 weep bitterly, it would have touched the heart of a stone, 
 and our hearts did not feel at all like stones just then. 
 
 Miss Mary Budden gave me an interesting account of 
 the conversion of her old aya (nurse, or female servant) 
 to-day. This old woman, now very old, had been their 
 aya when she and her sisters were little children, and had 
 been taught by the late Mrs. Budden, and afterwards by 
 themselves, in succession, but had through it all remained 
 as hard as a stone. She apparently continued in that state 
 until a short time since, when she became very ill, and 
 everyone thought she would die. She thought herself that 
 she was dying, and was one day heard to cry out, " Ai, Isa 
 Masih ! Ai, Isa Masih !" (Oh, Jesus Christ ! Oh, Jesus Christ !) 
 When Miss Budden heard this she said to her, "Aya, if 
 your life should be spared will you confess Christ?" and 
 she replied, "Yes." To everyone's astonishment she did 
 recover, and soon after Miss Budden said to her, " Well, 
 aya, are you going to keep your promise and confess 
 Christ?" and she said, "Yes, Miss Sahib," and so she has 
 done. Lady Ramsay's old aya too has quite lately been 
 baptised. 
 
 Miss Budden and I rode out to-day as far as the Leper 
 Asylum to meet Sir H., Lady, and Miss Ramsay. Lady and 
 Miss Ramsay have just returned from England; Sir Henry 
 had gone down to the plains to bring them up, and they all 
 arrived to-day. We met them just at the Leper Asylum gate, 
 which they had to pass, and when we got there we found 
 that all the poor lepers who were able to crawl up from 
 their houses had assembled to give their kind and good 
 friends a welcome back to Almora. 
 
 February 20. Almora. A bright and happy day, thank 
 God. I conducted the morning service for the native 
 Christians in Hindustani. At one o'clock I addressed 
 the women's and girls' Sunday-school, which I enjoyed 
 immensely ; and after lunch Miss Budden and I went down
 
 TWELVE BAPTISED. 129 
 
 to the service in the lepers' church, which Mr. Coley 
 conducted; there were twelve lepers baptised five men, 
 two boys, and five women. It was a most delightful service, 
 and was deeply interesting; the poor lepers gave their 
 answers well, and seemed to understand what they were 
 doing. Poor little Marcus was there, but, I observed, 
 instead of taking his place with the other lepers found a 
 corner beside us, and at one part of the service he offered 
 me part of his book, which I gladly shared with him ; it 
 seemed to be a comfort to him, poor boy. 
 
 March i. Saharanpore. I left Almora on the 2ist of 
 February, and have had a very pleasant journey down. 
 The Leper Asylum is about the last one sees of Almora, 
 and it is from there that one begins the descent. As I got 
 near the gate I saw some of the lepers assembled to say 
 good-bye, so stopped to have a word with them. Some of 
 them said that they remembered me quite well since my 
 former visit, and that they would not now forget me. Poor 
 things, to them a visit like this is something to be talked of 
 for years, it is such a break in the monotony of- their daily 
 life. 
 
 On February 23rd I spent a very pleasant day with 
 Mr. and Mrs. Hanson Budden, at Bareilly, and had the 
 pleasure of visiting the American Episcopal Methodist 
 Missionaries, who have a very strong force of ladies and 
 gentlemen at work there. Dr. Scott was away, but Mr. 
 Gill very kindly took me round the Mission premises; I 
 was introduced to Miss Christiancy, a lady doctor, who has 
 a hospital for Europeans and natives ; also to Miss English 
 and Miss Lawson, the former was good enough to take me 
 round the immense Orphanage for Girls, which she superin- 
 tends; there were 270 Christian girls, from infants in arms 
 to girls of a marriageable age ; all the arrangements seemed 
 to be excellent. I next saw the Theological Seminary 
 where the native preachers are trained, and came away 
 
 i
 
 130 LEPERS BY THE. WAY. 
 
 with the conviction that these American Brethren are 
 wonderful organisers. I should like to have had time to 
 have seen something of the style and method of their 
 work, but that was out of the question. 
 
 I spent a few very pleasant hours at Rurki, on my way 
 here, with Mr. de Souza, of the American Episcopal 
 Methodist Mission of that place; he, his native cate- 
 chist, and I, drove out to visit a few lepers that occupy 
 some little huts by the roadside just outside the town. 
 They were in a very wretched condition, there being as yet 
 but very little done for them. There are twelve inmates, 
 nine men and three women, all very bad. Poor things ! 
 We gathered them together, and I preached to them 
 "the unsearchable riches of Christ." They listened 
 very attentively, and seemed grateful for the sympathy we 
 were able to show them : two of the men have lately been 
 baptised, Hira and Chimman. The Mission to Lepers in 
 India is now to take them up, and Mr. de Souza has very 
 kindly undertaken to superintend the work. What light 
 and joy can be brought into these poor forlorn lives when 
 God's servants minister to them ! 
 
 Here at Saharanpore I am the guest of my old friends 
 the Wherrys, of the American Presbyterian Mission; and 
 there are also here of that Mission Mr. and Mrs. Kelso 
 (also old friends), and Mr. and Mrs. Ewing. 
 
 Dr. Wherry and I visited the lepers, who here, as of old, 
 dwell "without the camp." On an open plain, outside the 
 city, stands a long row of bare houses, without any verandah 
 or anything to shelter the inmates from the fearful rays of 
 the sun. This is the abode of the leper men. When we 
 arrived at this place there were seven men present, who 
 looked the picture of utter desolation. They stared at us 
 in amazement, as if wondering why we should take 
 sufficient interest in them to come there. When we spoke 
 kindly to them, it seemed to touch a chord in their poor
 
 SEE MY STATE!" 131 
 
 desolate hearts. What a pitiable picture they presented 
 as we drove away ! This little change in the terrible 
 monotony of their daily lives was after all but momentary, 
 and had only too quickly come to an end. As we moved 
 off, we left them salaming vigorously with their poor finger- 
 less hands. The women's abode is in a better place, near 
 some old gardens on the other side of the city, and the 
 little huts are much more comfortable, but their own 
 personal condition is truly pitiable. There were six out of 
 eighteen present when I visited them. They told me that 
 they get an allowance of two rupees a month for everything, 
 but they get no medical care, and no one ever comes near 
 them, except the official whose business it is to give them 
 their monthly allowance. On my asking one of them what 
 was her state (physically I meant), she replied impatiently, 
 " See my state ! " and throwing off her chaddar the cloth 
 she had thrown around her displayed to me her arm and 
 one leg. TJie whole of the elbow was one open sore, and 
 on her leg were raw sores of the same kind. And these 
 things need not be none such are to be seen in our 
 Christian asylums. God grant that we may yet have 
 Christian love and care, with Christ's own teaching, for 
 these poor forlorn ones. 
 
 The St. Dalmases and I have met again here. They are 
 on an evangelistic tour. Mr. de St. Dalmas gave an 
 address in the mission church here, and there was a very 
 fair attendance of Europeans. He preached an earnest 
 sermon on the words, " Fear not, little flock, it is your 
 Father's good pleasure to give you the kingdom." The 
 work that Mr. and Mrs. de St. Dalmas are carrying on is a 
 deeply interesting and important one. Their object is to 
 minister to scattered and isolated Europeans who have not 
 the ordinary means of grace. Since coming here I have 
 paid a visit to Dehra. I left on Friday evening by the 
 mail van. On reaching the post-office, to take my place
 
 132 MAKING THE BEST OF IT. 
 
 in the van, I discovered that I was to have a travelling 
 companion, who had just arrived by the mail train ; and as 
 there are no seats in these conveyances, we were obliged to 
 spread our bedding and lie down side by side. Had this 
 newly-arrived companion been a lady, it would have 
 necessitated my either taking a seat beside the driver, 
 which for a six or eight hours' journey at night would be 
 very tiring, or else perching myself on top amongst the 
 baggage, which, to say the least of it, would not have been 
 a bed of roses. We reached Dehra at 2.30 next morning. 
 I was the guest of the kind friends who are in charge of 
 the Christian Girls' Boarding-school Miss Pendleton and 
 Miss Wherry. Miss Geisinger, a Zenana missionary, lives 
 with them, and all belong to the American Presbyterian 
 Mission. Mr. and Mrs. Thackwell, belonging to the same 
 Mission, also live in Dehra. 2.30 a.m. was rather early to 
 walk in on one's friends; but people in India know how to 
 manage these things. In this instance it was very easily 
 arranged by the chaukidar (the night watchman) being on 
 the watch for me, and on my arrival showing me to my 
 room, in which a light had been left burning. I met my 
 kind friends at breakfast, and immediately after drove out 
 to visit the Leper Asylum, one of the nicest I have seen. It 
 is in charge of Doctor McLaren, civil surgeon of Dehra, 
 who takes the deepest interest in the welfare of the lepers, 
 and who has succeeded in interesting most of the European 
 residents in them also. The asylum is nicely situated. It 
 stands in the midst of a green plain, with groves of mango 
 trees, and a background of well-wooded hills. There is a 
 good road all the way out to it, and in front of the entrance- 
 gate it is nicely laid out with shrubs and flowers. The 
 asylum buildings themselves are surrounded by a high wall. 
 The inside is divided into two enclosures, one for the men 
 and one for the women and children. At one end of the 
 men's enclosure is a prayer-room, where all who wish it
 
 DEHRA LEPER ASYLUM. 133 
 
 meet for morning and evening worship, and for the Sunday 
 services. The attendance at these services is always large, 
 indeed would be too large for the size of the room, but that 
 it is quite open at one side and at one end, and this admits 
 of a free circulation of air. The support of the institution 
 is provided for by the interest of trust funds, and by 
 the voluntary subscriptions and donations of the Uehra 
 residents ; but the expense of the religious work is borne 
 by the Mission to Lepers in India, that department being 
 at present in charge of a native pastor named Manoah, and 
 under him is working a devoted native Christian, a leper. 
 He was formerly an inmate of the Almora Asylum, but 
 some years ago was sent to Dehra at the request of the 
 Rev. D. Herron, and God has abundantly owned his work 
 since that time, as many of the inmates have been led to 
 Christ. I remained a long while in the asylum, and was 
 struck by the contented, happy appearance of the inmates 
 such a contrast between the lepers at Dehra and Almora, 
 and these poor wretches, men and women, whom I have 
 seen here at Saharanpore. There were forty-five men, two 
 boys, and nineteen women in the asylum, and four boys 
 and two girls not lepers yet, but probably having the 
 disease in their system. All the inmates said that they 
 were looked upon as outcasts, and the women said that 
 they had been turned out of their homes, also the two 
 leper boys. Of the four boys not lepers, one has father 
 and mother in the asylum, two have got their mother only 
 in the asylum, and the fourth has neither parent living. Of 
 the two girls not lepers, one has her mother in the asylum, 
 and the other has both parents dead. The chaukidar 
 (caretaker) and mali (gardener) both live outside the 
 enclosure, but Padiya, the missionary, being a leper, lives 
 with the others, he and another Christian leper occupying 
 one house. Padiya is a quiet, retiring little man, but 
 seems to be a devoted Christian, and Dr. McLaren gives
 
 134 THE LEPERS* ADDRESS. 
 
 him a very high character ; he seems, too, to be beloved by 
 the other inmates. 
 
 In the evening I met the Thackwells and Mrs. Nicholson* 
 at dinner, Miss Pendleton having kindly asked them to 
 meet me. Mrs. Nicholson takes a warm interest in the 
 women of the Leper Asylum, and is in the habit of 
 "visiting them, and playing her concertina for them while 
 they sing their hymns for her. 
 
 Sunday was a very full day at Dehra. After breakfast I 
 conducted service in the Leper Asylum. Mrs. Nicholson 
 was there, and I enjoyed the service immensely; the Holy 
 Spirit seemed to be present, it was so easy to speak, and 
 the lepers seemed to drink in every word one said. Speak- 
 ing in Hindustani, I had no difficulty in making them 
 understand me ; every now and then their poor faces would 
 light up with pleasure as I told them of the treasures to be 
 found in Christ. Once I spoke of the power that is in 
 Christ, and the need that is in us, and asked them what 
 was necessary to connect those two things. To my delight 
 one man looked up and answered, "Faith." There were 
 two baptisms, a man and a boy, the baptism being admin- 
 istered by pastor Manoah : it was deeply interesting to see 
 those two dear souls make their confession and profession 
 before all the others, and receive the outward sign of faith. 
 Padiya was of course there, and was looking very happy. 
 At the conclusion of the service he asked me if he might 
 read me an address from the Christians, and on .my assenting 
 he stepped forward and read as follows: "The Christian 
 brethren here are very grateful to those kind friends who 
 have sent a Christian brother into our midst to teach us. 
 He has continued to teach us the Word of our Lord Jesus 
 Christ. Now we know that we were as lost sheep, but a 
 thousand, thousand thanks be to God our Father, and to 
 
 * This devoted labourer has since been called to her rest through 
 cholera.
 
 PADIYA. 135 
 
 His Son Jesus Christ our Saviour, that He has sought and 
 found and saved us, and brought us unto His own fold. 
 We listen very attentively to God's Word, and greatly thank 
 the Lord Jesus Christ that He loves us suffering ones so 
 much ; and we praise our Lord Jesus Christ, that for love 
 of Him His good people have come amongst us, and are 
 teaching us His Word, through which our wounded hearts 
 are finding comfort. At first we feared to die, but now we 
 are happy in the thought of going to our Lord Jesus Christ. 
 Thus one of our number, a young girl when dying, said, 
 ' I am very happy to leave this world and go to the Lord 
 Jesus Christ;' two men also said the same. 
 
 " Once again we desire to thank those noble friends who 
 have thought of this plan whereby we may hear the Word 
 of God. Our constant prayer for them is, that God the 
 Father would save them from every sorrow, that He would 
 bless their work, and satisfy them with every spiritual 
 blessing." 
 
 In the evening I conducted the English service in 
 the mission -church Mr. Thackwell's and afterwards 
 Mr. Thackwell administered the communion ; after tea I 
 addressed the Christian girls in Miss Pendleton's school. 
 It is not too much to say of the Dehra Christian Girls' 
 Boarding School that it is one of the very finest in- 
 stitutions of its kind in India, and that it turns out a very 
 superior class of girl, two of them I have already alluded 
 to as being teachers with Miss Fallen and Miss Harris in 
 Faizabad. 
 
 Monday in Dehra was a very busy day. After breakfast 
 I paid a visit to the asylum, and examined some of the 
 women in reading. I lunched with Mrs. Nicholson and 
 her children ; and in the afternoon Padiya and another of 
 the Christian lepers came to say good-bye. Poor Padiya, 
 he could not tear himself away; twice over I bade him 
 good-bye, and each time he followed me again. He said
 
 136 " CHRIST HAS HEALED ME." 
 
 that his physical health has been wonderfully improved 
 since he gave himself to Christ ; that Christ has not only 
 healed his soul, but has done wonders for his body. He 
 told me that he did not expect to live long, but he has not 
 the shadow of a doubt of his safety in Christ. He spoke 
 to me freely of his disease, but said that he counted it as 
 less than nothing now that he had found Christ ; he begged 
 most earnestly for prayer that Satan might not be allowed 
 to overcome him in anything. 
 
 On one occasion there was a gentleman preaching in the 
 bazaar in Dehra. who had taken for his subject " Christ 
 healing the leper;" after he had done, to his surprise a 
 leper stood before him, who, turning to the people, said, 
 " I am a leper, but Christ has healed me ; " at the same 
 time holding up his poor, maimed hands, and letting the 
 people see that he was in reality a leper. " I do not mean 
 my body," he went on to say, "but He has healed my soul." 
 And so the preacher had a powerful application of the 
 spiritual side of his sermon the leper was Padiya. 
 
 The Rev. D. Herron, when living in Dehra, was always a 
 kind, good friend to the lepers there, but he is now living 
 in Rawal Pindee. 
 
 I left Dehra last night, travelling again by the mail van, 
 and having as a travelling companion Mr. Woodside, 
 who was for many years a missionary in Dehra, but is 
 at present stationed in the Futtegurh branch of the American 
 Presbyterian Mission. We reached this (Saharanpore) 
 very early this morning. I leave again by the 2 o'clock 
 train for Ambala.
 
 DR. JOHN NEWTON. 137 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 A MB ALA, SUBATHU, AND LODIANA. 
 
 March 2. Subathu. I arrived at Ambala last evening 
 at a little after 5, and was kindly met by Mr. Roberts, of 
 the Civil Service. I dined with him and Mrs. Roberts, 
 and left again after dinner by dak gari for Kalka, at 
 the foot of the hills, where I arrived early this morning. 
 After chhoti-hazri I left on horseback for this place, and 
 getting a good horse I was able to make the journey of 
 twenty miles straight through, reaching at 1 1 o'clock. 
 
 I am the guest here of Mr. and Mrs. Wyckoff, of the 
 American Presbyterian Mission. They are in charge of 
 the Leper Asylum, which is an acknowledged part of 
 the mission work of the station. What memories this 
 place awakens the many happy hours I have spent 
 here with dear John Newton, the founder of this asylum, 
 and one of the best friends the lepers have ever known ! 
 He lived and worked amongst them for years, and now lies 
 buried in the quiet little hillside cemetery close by, waiting 
 for the resurrection-day, when he and many of the poor 
 lepers whom he was the means of leading to Christ will 
 rise together to meet their Lord in the air. At every turn 
 I seem to see his face. Everything seems to speak to me 
 of him I loved so well. 
 
 March 3. Subathu. After breakfast Mr. Wyckoff and 
 I went over to the asylum, and I had morning prayers with 
 the lepers, which I enjoyed immensely. They sang two of
 
 138 " GOD KNOWS, SAHIB." 
 
 their bhajans very well and heartily, and listened attentively 
 while I read and explained the Word of God. There was 
 one man from Chumba who remembered me well. He 
 was formerly an inmate of the asylum there, and when 
 it was discontinued some years ago he with four others 
 started for this place. The other four all got disheartened 
 on the road and returned, but Jawahir persevered, and 
 finally arrived here, where he has been well cared for ever 
 since. Since his coming here he has been baptised. I said 
 to him to-day, " Well, Jawahir, I hope you have really given 
 your heart to Jesus now." His eyes filled with tears, and 
 his voice shook as he said, " God knows, sahib." He 
 went on to say, " I had a hard heart in those days, sahib." 
 Poor fellow, it is soft enough now ! But how evidently 
 it has all been of the Lord ! There is a married couple 
 here with two dear little children a boy and a girl. How 
 I wish they could be separated from their poor leprous 
 parents ! After prayers I visited most of the lepers in 
 their several homes, and was pleased to see how neat, 
 clean, and comfortable they were. All of the inmates who 
 had been long enough in the asylum remembered me quite 
 well, and seemed very pleased to see me once again. As a 
 rule, those I saw were wonderfully bright and cheerful. 
 I could not but think to myself, " What a contrast between 
 this place and some that I have seen !" In front of their 
 houses the trees have grown up (when I saw the place last 
 there were none), and looked so pretty, especially the 
 peaches and apricots, which were in blossom. Some of 
 the lepers seem to take a pride in having their houses neat 
 and clean, and others have nice little gardens. After service 
 this morning they took up their usual monthly collection 
 for the support of one of their number. It was given 
 so cheerfully, and they seemed to take a great interest 
 in seeing it counted. There was more than the sum 
 needed, so the proper amount was handed over to one
 
 "MY HEART DOES NOT SPEAK." 139 
 
 of their own number, and the balance was put by in a fund, 
 having been duly entered in a book. The collection 
 amounted to 4 rupees 4 annas. Mr. Wyckoff tells me 
 that last year they gave as much as 15 rupees (equal 
 to i icxf.) for mission work. It makes me hang my head 
 for very shame when I think of what these poor souls give 
 so cheerfully out of their extreme poverty, and compare it 
 with what is sometimes given by an equal number of church- 
 goers at home, for the spread of Christ's kingdom, in a 
 whole year. 
 
 The native Christian in charge seems to be a good man. 
 Mr. Wyckoff tells me he does his work faithfully and well, 
 and that he will often get up in the middle of the night 
 to attend on poor sufferers. Some of the inmates who 
 were too ill to attend the morning service sent their 
 contribution for the collection by some of the others. 
 Christians at home might take a hint from this. 
 
 There are some very bad cases here. One poor fellow I 
 saw to-day without the vestige of a hand both gone from 
 the wrist. 
 
 March 4. Went again to the asylum after breakfast, and 
 again conducted morning worship for the lepers, which I 
 much enjoyed. One feels it to be such a privilege to be 
 the Lord's messenger to these His suffering ones. After 
 prayers I went to see poor Dakjhu. Hers is a remarkable 
 case. She has been in the asylum for many years, and has 
 been much prayed for. She knows the gospel story well, 
 and is thoroughly convinced of its truth in her head, but it 
 seems to get but little hold of her heart. I said to her, 
 "Well, what message am I to take to your kind friend in 
 England?" (the lady who supports her). To which she 
 replied, " Sahib, main kya kahun, mera dil nahin bolta, jab 
 tak mera dii na bole main kya karun?" (Sir, what can I 
 say ? My heart does not speak, and until my heart speaks, 
 what can I do?) Poor Jawahir was quite upset on seeing
 
 140 AMBALA. 
 
 me this morning. He has found out that I am on my 
 way to Chumba, and has heard that we contemplate 
 again starting the work there, and so I suppose is home- 
 sick. 
 
 At ten minutes to five o'clock I started for Kussowlie, 
 on my way back, after a most enjoyable visit with my kind 
 friends the Wyckoffs, and arrived at the Dak Bangalow at 
 6.40, after a very pleasant ride. I had just had my tea, 
 and was settling down for a quiet write, when I was startled 
 by a friendly knock, and on opening the door, to my 
 great surprise who should walk in but Mr. Wyckoff, whom 
 I had left at Subathu but three hours before. He had 
 suddenly made up his mind, after I had left, to start on 
 one of his itinerating tours for preaching, and as his camp 
 was at the foot of the hills, with all his baggage, &c., he 
 had nothing to do but order his pony and start at once ; 
 so I was the gainer, and irtstead of spending a lonely 
 evening I had a very bright one. 
 
 March 7. Ambala. I arrived back from Subathu on 
 Saturday evening. Yesterday went to morning service in 
 the English Station Church in Cantonments. The church 
 was full from end to end with military General and Lady 
 Roberts and staff being present. In the evening I 
 conducted service in the Scotch Church, for which the 
 Rev. W. J. P. Morrison, of the American Presbyterian 
 Mission, is at present acting as pastor. There is at times 
 a very good attendance at this church, but just now the 
 number of Presbyterians is small. 
 
 This morning I called upon the Rev. Mr. Bergen, of 
 the American Presbyterian Mission. He lives out at the 
 Civil Lines, and has charge of the Leper Asylum. I visited 
 the asylum with him, and conducted an impromptu service 
 for the inmates. It was here that I first made the 
 acquaintance of the poor lepers ; and the whole place and 
 all its surroundings seemed so familiar, I felt quite at home
 
 ILAHI BAKHSH. 141 
 
 at once. Many of them knew me, and reminded me of 
 some of the things I used to say to them. There are 
 thirty-eight men and fifteen women ; and there are two 
 little children not lepers; of the whole nineteen are 
 Christians. It was with feelings not to be described in 
 a book that I went to and came away from that place 
 where I have spent so many happy hours. It was there 
 that I knew that saint of God, Ilahi Bakhsh, who is 
 now no longer present to tell one, from the depths of 
 his awful sufferings, of God's goodness to him ; he knows 
 it now in the brightness of the glory. 
 
 After leaving the asylum I breakfasted with Mr. and 
 Mrs. Brown, of the Civil Service, old friends, and then 
 returned to Cantonments. Left for Lodiana by the evening 
 train, and arrived at 10 p.m., when I was kindly met by 
 Mr. Me Comb, of the American Presbyterian Mission. 
 After tea, and when Mr. and Mrs. Me Comb had retired, 
 I slipped out the back way, and had a walk in the 
 bright moonlight, all round the old familiar place. I 
 visited my sister's grave, and the house where we used to 
 live; but, again, these are matters not for a book, so I 
 forbear. 
 
 March 8. Lodiana. This is a place full of interest 
 in missionary history. Here commenced the week of 
 prayer, now so universally observed, the late Rev. Dr. 
 Morrison being the prime mover in it; here lived the 
 martyred Janvier; here was commenced mission work 
 for the Panjab, the beloved John Newton, one of the 
 three who began it, being still in the field ; and here lived 
 and worked such well-known men as Rudolph, Meyers, 
 Orbison, Henry, and others ; while here too has worked 
 a vigorous mission press for very many years, printing 
 the Bible in Hindustani, Hindi, Panjabi, and other 
 characters, and sending forth, year after year, hundreds 
 of thousands of portions of the Scriptures, tracts, and
 
 142 LODfANA. 
 
 other religious books, in the languages of the different 
 people inhabiting the Panjab. 
 
 At present there is a good staff of lady and gentlemen 
 workers. Amongst the ladies are represented three societies 
 the American Presbyterian, the Female Education in the 
 East, and the Indian Female Normal School; while the 
 gentlemen, Messrs. Me Comb, Charles and Edward Newton, 
 all belong to the American Presbyterians. The Native 
 Christian Industrial Boys' School here is an interesting 
 institution, presided over by Mr. and Mrs. Me Comb, 
 who have a native Christian head -master under them. 
 There are a hundred boys from different parts of the 
 Panjab, all receiving a sound education, and, as far as 
 possible, learning some trade. I saw some boys at work 
 making Persian carpets, and very well they were doing 
 it. Their teacher was working with them, and was acting 
 as leader. As he took up each colour in his hand he would 
 call out what it was, in a sing-song voice, and they would 
 follow suit. It was very wonderful how he remembered 
 each little bit of colour in its proper place. I asked him 
 how it was that he could remember them all in order, 
 so as to keep the pattern correct ; and he told me that he 
 had just to commit it all to memory. 
 
 The Christian Girls' Boarding School is the property of 
 the Female Education in the East Society, and is a beautiful 
 institution. Miss West has been its devoted head for about 
 ten years; she kindly showed me over it, and introduced 
 me to some of her girls ; one of them I had known many 
 years before, she is now indeed a grown-up woman, and 
 is Miss West's "right hand." Anyone wishing to get an 
 insight into some of the ladies' work of this place should 
 get that very racy little book, Five Years in Lodiana, by 
 Miss Rose Greenfield. 
 
 Miss West told me the sad story of Rahmat's disappear- 
 ance. It had a specially sad interest for me, as I was
 
 RAHMAT. 143 
 
 instrumental in placing her in the school. Her father was a 
 Mahommedan, living in Wazirabad, and was baptised, while 
 I was there, with his two little daughters, Rahmat (mercy) 
 and Barkat (blessing), and their brother Mania Bakhsh. 
 After a while the poor father apostatised, and carried off 
 the boy Maula, who was being educated in Lodiana; but 
 Rahmat remained with Miss West, her sister having died 
 previous to the father's apostasy. The mother, who had 
 never been baptised, was in the habit of visiting Lodiana, 
 and trying to influence Rahmat to follow her father. The 
 struggle that went on in poor Rahmat's heart for two years 
 after her father's apostasy was something fearful ; few of us 
 can have any idea of what it was. On the one hand she 
 was a professed follower of the Saviour, and, we have every 
 reason to believe, truly loved Him; she had also learned 
 to love Miss West, and was happy in her school-home ; 
 while, on the other, her parents were urging her to join 
 them, and, of course, trying to persuade her that her new 
 religion was false. No wonder that she wavered. No 
 wonder that she finally gave way. One evening, when all 
 the girls were walking about the compound, she quietly 
 walked outside, no one suspecting anything, and has never 
 been seen since. Her mother must have been waiting for 
 her. Miss West firmly believes that she will be brought 
 back, and that she will in some way be made a blessing 
 in her dark home. God grant that both may come 
 true. 
 
 Mr. Me Comb took me to see the Heathen Boys' School 
 in the city, over which I used at one time to be Superin- 
 tendent ; it was very little changed. There are still about 
 400 boys. There were only two of the masters of my time 
 still there. There is quite a colony of native Christians in 
 Lodiana, a large congregation meets every Sunday in the 
 Mission Church ; and there are several out-stations under 
 the charge of native pastors and catechists, so that a very
 
 144 VILLAGE WORK. 
 
 varied and deeply interesting work is being carried on ajl 
 throughout the district. As evidencing that work and some 
 of its effects I give two extracts from one of the Reports of 
 the Lodiana Mission. 
 
 "At Khumanon we spent sixteen days, and a week at 
 Chamkaur. The latter place, a good-sized village about 
 eight or nine miles from Ropar, is one of the head quarters 
 of the Sikh religion, and contains one of the most sacred 
 shrines of its adherents. This consists of the tomb of two 
 of the sons of their great leader, Guru Govind Singh, who 
 were here killed in battle with the Muhammadans about 
 the year 1701, in the reign of the Emperor Aurangzeb. 
 In connection with this building, which is quite a tall 
 structure, visible for miles around, and presenting an im- 
 posing appearance at a distance, is a monastery occupied 
 by a number of 'Akalis,' the most fanatical class of Sikh 
 fakirs. Knowing the character usually borne by these men, 
 I went to the place, prepared to meet with very decided 
 opposition ; but in this I found myself very agreeably dis- 
 appointed. I was there eight days, and never spent a 
 pleasanter week in any of my village tours. The people 
 were, almost without exception, friendly, many of them 
 extremely so. I had good audiences, and there was much 
 apparent interest in the preaching. It was my practice 
 while there to go every day to the 'diwan khana,' a public 
 room in the village for the accommodation of travellers, 
 and for public gatherings of all kinds. Here I spread a 
 carpet, and, seating myself on my camp-chair, read and 
 talked to the people who came and went during the day. 
 Generally I had a very fair number to talk to in this way. 
 My best audiences, however, were in the evenings, when 
 I went again to the same place a little after dark, lit a 
 couple of candles, and read and talked to the people till 
 nine or ten o'clock. As a number of the same people
 
 MOVEMENT AT RAMPUR. 145 
 
 came day after day, I was able in this way, during my stay 
 in the place, to give them a fair knowledge of the leading 
 facts of our Lord's life, death, resurrection, ascension, and 
 second advent, besides the history of the creation and fall, 
 and the prophecies of Christ previous to His coming. 
 Their interest in these evening meetings was evinced on 
 one or two occasions by their sending to a neighbouring 
 shop for a lamp, in order that they might continue when 
 my candles were burnt out, and I was about to leave. 
 
 " It is usually my practice, when staying for some days in 
 a place, to visit the villages within a radius of three or four 
 miles, but at Chamkaur I found quite enough work to 
 occupy my time without doing this." 
 
 MOVEMENT AT RAMPUR. Rev. E. M. Wherry reports as 
 follows: "The people at Rampur, who are the followers 
 of Bhai Hakim Singh, continue to grow in numbers. One 
 of their number recently said that they gained about one 
 hundred adherents annually. Most of these are, however, 
 persons who merely acknowledge Hakim Singh as their 
 guru, or teacher, and assent to his teaching. This infor- 
 mant, in reply to the inquiry what they call themselves, 
 said they had no particular name, but that they believed in 
 one God, and in Jesus as the true incarnation of God; 
 that they believed they should be saved on account of 
 His having borne the load of sin, and more in a similar 
 strain, showing that he, at least, understood the gospel way 
 of salvation. When asked what the people in the village 
 called them, he said, 'We are called Christians,' and acknow- 
 ledged that that name was appropriate, in the sense that 
 they believed on Christ. In reply to the inquiry whether 
 he ever prayed to Jesus, he said he did so every morning 
 and evening, and referring to his troubles, which need not 
 be described, he said, ' Were it not for this faith, I should 
 never have been able to bear up under these trials.' There 
 
 K
 
 146 MOVEMENT AT RAMPUR. 
 
 is still, however, the old unwillingness to be baptised. Some 
 recognise the duty, but excuse themselves on the ground 
 that to receive baptism would bring trouble not only on 
 themselves, but on their wives, children, and relatives. On 
 the whole there seems to be growth, and we may still hope 
 that in due time a harvest will be reaped. They always 
 receive us most cordially, and recognise us as teachers of 
 the true religion."
 
 LODIANA TO DALHOUSIE. 147 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 AMRITSAR, CHUMBA, AND TARN TARAN. 
 
 LEFT Lodiana on the morning of March 9, and reached 
 Amritsar at a little after 6, had chhoti-hazri, and left 
 by the new line for Pathankote at 7.14, arriving there 
 at 11.30 a.m. What a change from the dreadful dak-gari 
 that used to keep you ten hours jolting on the road ! I 
 had written on to have a doolie engaged, so that as soon as 
 I had breakfasted I started at once for Dalhousie. My 
 men carried me well, and I reached Dhar Bangalow at 
 5 p.m. There I had a rest and a cup of tea, and started 
 again, with a fresh set of men, at 6; and, travelling all 
 night, reached the post-office in Dalhousie at 6.30 a.m. on 
 Thursday morning, the loth March. On making enquiries 
 I found that there was no hotel open, the summer residents 
 not having begun to arrive as yet, and as there is no Dak 
 Bangalow (though why this important station has been left 
 so long without a bungalow I have never yet been able to 
 find out), and I did not know any of the few Europeans here 
 at present, I was rather in a fix to know what to do. I had 
 nothing to eat with me, and did not like the idea of starting 
 for a ride of twenty miles to Chumba without anything. 
 While I was pondering the situation, I suddenly bethought 
 myself of a Mahommedan shopkeeper with whom I used 
 formerly to deal, and so off I started for the bazaar, and 
 putting a bold face on it, asked him if he would give me 
 my breakfast. I knew he would be offended were I to 
 offer to pay, as he is a man of some considerable respecta-
 
 148 A FKJEND IN NEED. 
 
 bility. He was most kind and hospitable, gave me a good 
 breakfast, and insisted on my taking a box of biscuits from 
 his shop, lest I should want anything by the way. The 
 Raja of Chumba had kindly sent me up a horse to carry 
 me down to Chumba, and so I was able to start imme- 
 diately after breakfast. My way led me past the cemetery 
 where nearly eight years ago we laid our precious little 
 girl. I found the spot peaceful and beautiful as ever, and 
 kept in as perfect order as though we had been here 
 ourselves to superintend it. " Is it well with the child ? 
 It is well." 
 
 There being much snow on the shortest route I was 
 obliged to take a circuitous and trying one, and so did 
 not reach Chumba until 6 p.m. I found the place looking 
 very beautiful, all the peach, apricot, pear-trees, &c. being 
 in full blossom. The last bit before reaching the town, i.e. 
 from the Ravi Bridge to the Chaugan (a beautiful piece of 
 green, level, natural sward) is exceedingly steep, a great 
 part of it being up wide stone steps made from boulders 
 taken from the river. As I climbed up this I was met half- 
 way by one of the native Christians who had been on the 
 look-out for me, and on crossing the Chaugan, by several 
 others, all old friends, who gave me a very hearty welcome ; 
 they conducted me over to the mission-house, where I was 
 very kindly received by Mr. Walker, who is in sole charge 
 just now, Dr. Hutcheson being away on sick leave. 
 
 March n. After breakfast Mr. Walker and I rode 
 down to see the lepers who at present occupy what used 
 to be the women's quarters of the old asylum, a row of six 
 houses some distance ahead of the main buildings. When 
 the asylum, on its larger scale, was discontinued, about eight 
 years ago, H. H. the Raja took over nearly all the buildings. 
 I found the houses all in good repair, but now almost 
 smothered in mulberry trees. There is a pretty shady walk 
 of these trees right up to the asylum. All the houses except
 
 "NOW I MAY GO IN PEACE." 149 
 
 those which used to be occupied by the single women have 
 been used for silkworms, but these have been given up, so 
 that the houses are now empty. Leaving these behind 
 us, we crossed the open space to where the lepers now 
 are ; there are seven of them, most of whom were here in 
 my time. As I drew near I saw them looking very hard at 
 me; and when I got a little nearer still, a bright smile lit 
 up the otherwise dull face of one of the men. I saw then 
 that I was recognised, and said, " Do you know me ? " 
 " Our father and mother," said they, prostrating themselves 
 at my feet, and placing their foreheads on the ground. They 
 remained in that posture for some time, and it was with 
 difficulty that I could get them to move. The genuine 
 pleasure which they showed at seeing me again touched me 
 very deeply, and of all the receptions which I have had 
 from these poor outcasts I think this was the best, they were 
 just overjoyed. One poor fellow was very ill, and so I went 
 to his house, as he could not corne out to me. When I got 
 to the door, he bowed himself down to the ground, and said, 
 " My father and mother, now I may go in peace." " Where 
 may you go?" I said. "To the Lord," he said. It is im- 
 possible for me to explain what I felt. I had left this poor 
 fellow eight years before a heathen, without, so far as I can 
 remember, the slightest hope of his becoming a Christian, 
 and now to find him "going to the Lord," as he said 
 himself! 
 
 On my return H. H. the Raja kindly granted me an 
 interview. He was very affable, but would not promise to 
 give back the old houses to commence a new asylum. He 
 speaks and understands English well. 
 
 March 13. I had the great pleasure of conducting the 
 morning service in the little Mission Church for the native 
 congregation ; ordinarily, pastor Sohan Lai, who has been 
 the pastor of this congregation for many years, would have 
 taken this service, but he was kind enough to ask me to
 
 ISO AMONG OLD FRIENDS. 
 
 take it, knowing what pleasure it would give me. It was 
 a great delight to me to look into the faces of the Christians 
 of Chumba once again, and also to see many new ones 
 among them. Dr. Burkhurdar was there ; I had left him a 
 Mahommedan at least, outwardly so but now a brother 
 in the Lord. There was Sohan Lai himself, and Puliis, 
 and Poli, and many others, men and women, all old 
 familiar faces. Mr. Walker was, of course, there, and it 
 was a great pleasure to see how thoroughly he identifies 
 himself with the Christians. He has already, though but 
 a young missionary, got a good grip of the language can 
 speak it freely, and is devoted to his work ; he is very much 
 interested in the lepers, and anxious to do what he can for 
 the extension of the work amongst them. 
 
 Chumba is one of the stations of the Church of Scotland. 
 The work here was commenced many years ago by that 
 well-known missionary the Rev. William Ferguson, formerly 
 a chaplain, and now located at Cyprus. Many of the 
 Christians here at present are the fruits of his labours; 
 they remember him with great affection to this day. Here 
 also Dr. Elmslie and Dr. Downes laboured for a time. 
 
 March 14. Went down again to the leper asylum with 
 Mr. Walker, Poli, and Dr. Barkhurdar. I shall never forget 
 the interview that we had with Phangu, the man who is so 
 ill. I think that that alone would have been worth coming 
 to India for. He knows that he is not likely to live long, 
 but is quite ready to go, and says that he is going to the 
 Lord. He is bright and clear in his faith, and declares his 
 willingness to be baptised. He was terribly upset, poor 
 fellow, on hearing that I was going away next day. He 
 declared he would not let me go. He said he had first 
 heard the gospel from me and from Poli (whom he evidently 
 loves very much), and that he wished to be baptised by my 
 hand. His idea seemed to be that I should remain till he 
 was called home ; and when he heard that it was absolutely
 
 "PHIR MERA NASIB BUR A HAL" 151 
 
 necessary for me to go, he was greatly agitated, and said, 
 " Phir mera nasib bura hai " (Then my fate is a cruel one). 
 Poor dear fellow, it was terribly hard to leave him, and I 
 felt it very keenly, but was comforted by the thought that 
 he would soon be with his Saviour. When I went forward 
 a little nearer to say good-bye, he bent down his head upon 
 my foot, and for some time I could not get it away. It 
 was a most touching scene, and all present seemed to be 
 much affected by it. I was struck by Dr. Barkhurdar's 
 tenderness to this poor sick leper. He spoke so kindly to 
 him, and once went in behind him, and putting his hands 
 under him, settled him more comfortably; for the poor 
 fellow would insist on sitting on the floor, and not lying 
 down on his charpoy (bed). 
 
 Poli explained the story of Jairus' daughter, and of the 
 woman who "touched the hem of His garment," and I 
 followed with a few remarks and prayer ; and then we all 
 left, having been greatly impressed by the whole scene. 
 Surely this is a case of "cast thy bread upon the waters, 
 and thou shalt find it after many days." Phangu has a 
 sister and brother-in-law in the asylum, both of whom Dr. 
 Barkhurdar hopes may also be baptised. Poor Phangu 
 told us he had a debt of ten rupees, which was due to a 
 man for the last fifteen years, and was a great trouble to his 
 mind. He did not like to die with this unpaid ; he thought 
 it would be "on his head" in the other world. We told 
 him there would be no debts in heaven. We shall arrange 
 to have it paid for him. 
 
 March 15. Left Chumba at 5.30 a.m. on one of the Raja's 
 horses, and was glad to be accompanied by Mr. Walker as 
 far as Dalhousie, he having business there; I took the 
 opportunity of having another look at our darling's resting- 
 place before leaving for the plains. I started from the post- 
 office, Dalhousie, at 3 p.m., and, travelling straight through, 
 arrived at Amritsar at 10.20 a.m. to-day (March 16).
 
 152 AMRITSAR. 
 
 March 17. Amritsar. I am the guest here of Mr. and 
 Mrs. Perkins, hon. missionaries of the C. M. S. Mr. Perkins 
 was formerly the Commissioner of this division, but on his 
 retiring from the Civil Service in 1886, after a long and 
 honourable service for Her Majesty, he joined the ranks of 
 the Church Missionary Society as an honorary missionary ; 
 and he and Mrs. Perkins now give their whole time to 
 the service of that Master whom they have so long loved 
 and sought to serve as they found opportunity. 
 
 The Hon. Mr. Scott (the Master of Polwarth), who is at 
 present making a tour in India, and who is especially 
 anxious to see what he can of mission work, is also a guest 
 of Mr. and Mrs. Perkins just now. 
 
 This place is so well known as a great missionary centre, 
 and has been so often described, that it is almost superfluous 
 for me to say anything about it. It is the great stronghold 
 of the Church Missionary Society in the Panjab, and has at 
 its head the devoted Robert Clark, well known and much 
 loved, who has been here for the last thirty-six years. 
 There is a very large staff of agents European and native, 
 ladies and gentlemen. Amongst the ladies the longest 
 here is Miss Wauton, who has been out for fifteen years. 
 Amongst the native agents the most noted is the Rev. 
 Imad-ud-din, D.D., a convert from Mahommedanism, a 
 devoted, earnest Christian, and the most able writer on the 
 Mahommedan controversy that we have in India. 
 
 To attempt to explain all the different ramifications 
 of the operations carried on by the C. M. S. at this station 
 would take a book to itself; suffice it to say that every 
 known and lawful method to win souls for the kingdom of 
 Christ is used. 
 
 After breakfast drove out with the Master of Polwarth, 
 and visited Dr. Clark's Mission Hospital in the city, where 
 Dr. Clark and I had an interesting talk with an Udasi 
 fakfr. He seems to be a real seeker after truth. Dr. Clark
 
 A NATIVE MEDICAL LADY. 153 
 
 was telling us how the interest is spreading in this part 
 of the country, and mentioned one place where there 
 are said to be about 500 candidates for baptism. On our 
 return Mrs. Perkins kindly took us to see the girls' 
 orphanage, and the Alexandra School. The latter is 
 certainly a fine institution, and they seem to have a 
 superior class of Christian girls there. Miss Bowles is at 
 the head of it. At 5.30 I gave an address to women and 
 girls (native Christians) in Mrs. Perkins' drawing-room, and 
 in the evening we had a nice missionary party to dinner. 
 
 March 1 8. Tarn Taran. Left Amritsar a little before 8, 
 and getting a change of horses on the road arrived at 
 the mission-house about 10 o'clock. Tarn Taran is a 
 branch of the Amritsar Mission, and is under the charge of 
 the Rev. E. Guilford. He and Mrs. Guilford have welcomed 
 me most kindly. An interesting part of the work of this 
 station is the Female Medical Mission, which is superin- 
 tended by Miss Keru Bhose, a young native lady who 
 studied medicine in England. I paid a very pleasant visit 
 with Mr. Guilford to her dispensary, and saw her at work. 
 She has a kind, gentle manner with her patients, and seems 
 to win her way to their hearts, and thoroughly to understand 
 her work. She had a very critical case in hand when 
 I saw her a little boy who had been run over by a cart, 
 and whose head had been broken in a fearful way. 
 
 Mr. Guilford and I drove out to the leper settlement. 
 There are two long rows of double houses, back to back, 
 and these contain 212 inmates, of whom 127 are men, 
 67 women, and 18 children. This is the largest number of 
 lepers I have seen gathered in any one place. The 18 
 children all show more or less signs of the disease, and 
 some of them have it in a very pronounced form. This is 
 a Government institution, but is supported by the different 
 municipalities, who send in lepers. Each municipality is 
 obliged to give 4 rupees a month for every leper that
 
 154 A JAIL FOR LEPERS. 
 
 it sends. There is no attempt at the separation of the 
 sexes, nor any restriction placed on their marrying, 
 consequently the large number of children. There is 
 a native doctor in charge, who lives in a separate house, 
 but close to the asylum. 
 
 The houses here are, I consider, very faulty in con- 
 struction, being ill-ventilated, and the floors very low. 
 There are some very awful cases of leprosy to be seen. 
 A /a/7 for lepers has been built close by, so that the lepers 
 now in the different prisons may be drafted off here ; but 
 as yet none have been sent, owing, I believe, to the fact 
 that the building, on which a great deal of money has been 
 spent, is not considered suitable. I went through the 
 building myself, and the remark was made to me, that 
 if the Government had wished to bake their leper prisoners, 
 they could not have had a more suitable place. 
 
 The lepers get three rupees a month each, and are 
 allowed blankets every second year. They are allowed to 
 come and go as they please, no restriction of any kind 
 being put upon any of them, so that I consider the place 
 to be more a leper settlement than an asylum, in the 
 ordinary acceptation of the word. Mr. Guilford is allowed 
 to carry on spiritual work amongst the inmates, and there is 
 a neat little church which has been put up by the " Mission 
 to Lepers in India;" it is rather a prayer-room than a 
 church. There has been great encouragement in the 
 spiritual work since Mr. Guilford commenced it ; there are 
 now nineteen Christians, eleven men, and six women, and 
 two children. Of these five are old Christians, two from 
 the Ambala Asylum, and three from the Subathu ; and 
 it was the consistent Christian lives of these Christians 
 which led to the awakening amongst the other inmates. 
 When the Christians first arrived at the settlement they 
 were told by the native official then in charge, that they 
 could not be received there unless on the condition of
 
 TARN TARAN. 155 
 
 renouncing their faith ; but this they indignantly refused to 
 do, and said that it was not for worldly gain that they had 
 become Christians. Then the official, knowing well that he 
 dared not refuse them, gave in, and so they were admitted. 
 Since that time they have held to their faith bravely, and 
 have, under God, been the means of bringing in others. 
 Already sixteen have been baptised, and- there is another to 
 be admitted on Sunday next. The Christians to-day all 
 seemed bright and happy, and this is no mere fancy of 
 mine. I always do see the greatest difference between 
 Christians and heathen in these asylums; the one seems 
 borne up in his sorrow, the other utterly cast down and 
 dejected. I was amused to-day at the way in which the 
 Christians came round us at once as if to say, " We have 
 the first right to the Sahibs." The moment I looked at 
 them I saw one woman whose face I seemed to know, and 
 on asking about her, she said that she had come from the 
 Ambala Asylum, and that I had been present at her 
 baptism. The others from Subathu knew me, though I did 
 not remember them. They told me they had left Subathu 
 when Mrs. Dr. Newton went away; first Dr. Newton's 
 death, and then Mrs. Newton's leaving was, I suppose, too 
 much for them, and so they got disheartened. The prayer- 
 room which Mr. Guilford has built is a good, substantial 
 building, and very suitable for the purpose. We sat in it for 
 a little time, and talked to the Christians. We did not 
 attempt any meeting in it just then, and when I rose to go 
 one of the men said to me, in quite an injured tone, "Sahib, 
 will you not hear a hymn before you leave ?" Of course 
 I assented, and they sang one of their hymns for me with 
 great spirit. 
 
 March 19. Went again to the leper settlement to-day, 
 and made a very close inspection of it ; I visited every 
 house, and several things struck me very forcibly. First, 
 the difference between the Christians and the heathen ; this
 
 156 CHRISTIAN LEPERS. 
 
 I have remarked upon already, but it struck me so much 
 more forcibly on this my second visit that I cannot help 
 again mentioning it. The Christians keep themselves and 
 their houses clean, and in general health are much better 
 than the others, while they always look more cheerful ; 
 many of them, too, have learned to read, and so have the 
 grand resource and consolation of studying the pages of 
 the blessed Book : while the heathen and Mahommedans 
 are dirty in their persons, and their homes are nothing like 
 as clean or so well kept as those of the Christians, and 
 one rarely gets a smile or bright look from their poor woe- 
 begone faces, nor is it to be expected that you should, for 
 a leper without Christ and the consolations of His gospel 
 is, I think, the very personification of hopelessness he is 
 one in whose poor breast the last spark of hope has for 
 ever gone out. The second thing that struck me was the 
 immense number of unusually bad cases to be seen here, 
 and the aggravated form that the disease assumed the 
 open sloughing sores, the cracked, scaly skin, and the awful 
 mutilations. A third thing that struck me was the general 
 want of supervision and discipline. The native doctor told 
 me that the heathen lepers will often starve themselves in 
 order to save money to send to their relatives. Poor things, 
 one can scarcely blame them for that ; and they have an 
 inducement to do so that the Christians have not, for the 
 Christians are even more cut off from their relatives than 
 the others, from the very fact of their having become 
 Christians, and so they have no one to save for. But 
 apart from the question of relatives altogether, I know 
 from my own experience that they nearly all possess this 
 hoarding propensity ; they all seem to have the idea that 
 there is an even more " rainy day " coming than any that 
 they have as yet seen, though, God knows, to look at some 
 of them you would think that it had never been anything 
 but a downpour upon them from the day of their birth to
 
 AMRITSAR AGAIN. 157 
 
 the present hour, and that no storm greater than those they 
 had already experienced could possibly fall upon them, and 
 yet even they look forward to their " rainy day," and try to 
 save for it. 
 
 There are many things which need attending to here. 
 Bathing should be insisted on ; the use of remedies should 
 be encouraged, for these poor creatures might be greatly 
 relieved if they would use remedies ; vagrancy should be 
 stopped ; and marriages should not be allowed amongst 
 the inmates ; while the single women should be at once 
 separated from the rest of the community, and, as far as 
 possible, the children also. 
 
 March 20. The native Christians of Tarn Taran have 
 as yet no church building, so they meet on Sundays in 
 Mr. Guilford's house. Mr. Guilford conducted service this 
 morning, and then kindly allowed me to give an address ; 
 afterwards we had the communion together. In the evening 
 we went to the lepers, one of the native catechists accom- 
 panying us. The catechist opened the service with prayer, 
 then Mr. Guilford read the baptismal service and baptised 
 Gur Ditta (the name means " given by the Guru" or 
 Great Teacher), and then I gave a short address in Hindu- 
 stani, and closed with prayer. The native doctor of the 
 place, all the Christians, and several of the heathen lepers 
 were present. One of the latter, an old man, kept muttering 
 words of approval all the time I was speaking. Mr. Guilford 
 tells me that he has great hopes of this old man. 
 
 March 21. Left Tarn Taran after chhoti-hazri, Mr. 
 Guilford accompanying me. We had a pleasant drive of an 
 hour and forty minutes, and arrived to breakfast at Mrs. 
 Perkins'. Here Mr. and Mrs. de St. Dalmas and I have 
 again met ; this makes four times in this tour ! In the 
 evening I gave an evangelistic address in Mrs. Perkins' 
 drawing-room ; there was a very good attendance ; the 
 address was in English.
 
 1 58 THE TIDE HAS TURNED. 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 SEALKOTE, RAWAL P1NDEE, AND LAHORE. 
 
 March 22. Left Amritsar by the early train, and on 
 arrival at Lahore was met by Dr. Forman of the American 
 Mission, and Miss McPhun of the I. F. N. S., also by 
 Mr. Burney of the Civil Service. We had a very pleasant 
 chat while the train waited, and then I left for Sealkote, vi& 
 Wazirabad ; from Wazirabad to Sealkote was, when I was 
 last in India, a dak-gdri journey, but now one can travel 
 all the way by rail, and I believe the line will soon be 
 opened up as far as Jammu, in Kashmir territory. My old 
 and valued friend and colleague, Youngson, of the Church 
 of Scotland Mission, met me at the Sealkote railway-station, 
 and drove me to his house, where I am putting up during 
 my stay. What a difference has come over mission work in 
 this district since I was here, a little over five years ago ! 
 Then we could have counted all our converts on the fingers 
 of one hand; and now, blessed be God, the tide has 
 turned, and it has been taken advantage of, and as a con- 
 sequence whole villages have joined the Christians; the low- 
 caste people seem to be coming over en masse, and are 
 asking for Christian instruction. Last year Mr. Youngson 
 baptised nearly 500 persons. A page out of his own report 
 for the year may prove interesting. Here is what he says : 
 
 "The Sialkot Church now numbers 122 members, 40 of 
 whom are communicants. Besides these there are in the 
 district 496 baptised men, women, and children, who are 
 being formed into churches. The Church of Amoutrah
 
 "SCHOOL OF THE PROPHETS." 159 
 
 was organised early in the year, and has 22 communicants. 
 In one year the total number of Christians has risen from 
 125 to 6 1 8, of which number 443 have been baptised this 
 year; viz., 206 men, 84 women, 104 boys, and 49 girls. 
 
 " The movement that commenced among the low caste, 
 or aboriginal people, in the end of last year, has widened 
 and deepened continuously throughout the year. We have 
 now no fewer than 51 villages, in which we have 496 
 converts, and 9 small schools of Christian boys and girls, 
 besides a Theological School at Daska. The organisation 
 of churches will now fully occupy our attention, and the 
 Presbytery will be asked to sanction the appointment of 
 elders by the usual procedure, in the villages of Bhagatpur 
 or Bassoo Punnoo, Chianwa'li, Jhulkf, Daoki, and Moma. 
 The great difficulty we have hitherto had to meet and over- 
 come is to provide an adequate supply of teachers and 
 preachers for so many villages. It is at the peril of the 
 souls of the newly-baptised that we leave them without the 
 ordinances of religion, teaching, and other means of grace; 
 and we are accordingly on the outlook for good men for 
 this work, and doing our best to provide the necessary 
 supply. To this end a lady in Scotland has undertaken the 
 support of the Daska "School of the Prophets" for three 
 years, at a cost of ^50 a year; and Dr. Macleod, of the 
 Park Church, Glasgow, aided by his congregation, has 
 provided ^"150 for evangelistic work in the south of 
 Sialkot district. We are very grateful to them for their 
 gifts, and we pray God to bless those gifts in His work. 
 The Theological School was opened in July, and is attended 
 by 1 6 students. They are the most promising of our 
 young men, and have made rapid progress. 
 
 " It is impossible to foresee our needs in the future, but 
 we may anticipate large accessions to the church in 1887,* 
 
 The accessions in 1887 have been over 500.
 
 160 EVENING PRAYER, SEALKOTE. 
 
 and we feel it our duty to warn the home church that they 
 may be called on to do more for Sialkot. There are at 
 this present moment ten villages where our Christian 
 brethren are imploring us to send teachers. 
 
 "The most of our converts are poor, and dependent, 
 under God, on the farmers for employment and daily bread. 
 Becoming a Christian is often followed by a man's being 
 deprived of the means of livelihood ; and so our brethren 
 are, in many cases, subjected to severe trials and tempta- 
 tions. Let no one say that these aboriginal people have 
 nothing to lose when they become Christians. They have 
 actually lost much, and the prospect for them is, as far as 
 worldly interests are concerned, as yet a dark one. We 
 believe, however, that as the children of Israel prospered 
 after painful experiences, so will these. God in His provi- 
 dence will open up a way for them, and we pray that, 
 however they may prosper in the world, they may be rich 
 in faith, and heirs of everlasting life." 
 
 In the evening, whilst sitting with Mr. and Mrs. Young- 
 son, I heard a sound as of singing at some little distance, 
 and on asking what it meant, I was told that it was coming 
 from the Christian village close by. When I was here last 
 there was no Christian village close by, nor indeed anywhere 
 else near at hand. I asked if I might go and join them, and 
 so we went over, and I found all the people collecting for 
 evening worship, which was to be conducted by Mr. Tahal 
 Singh, who usually takes this opportunity of catechising 
 and instructing the people. Mr. Singh kindly offered me 
 the Bible, and asked me to conduct the simple service, 
 which it gave me very great pleasure to do. I was offered 
 a seat on a common village bed, a little boy sat down in 
 front of me holding a lamp ; and there in the open air, on 
 that beautiful, soft March night, we Europeans, and those 
 simple village people, so lately come out of their heathen 
 darkness and superstition, together worshipped the one true
 
 WHITE TO THE HARVEST. 161 
 
 God. It was with feelings of deep thankfulness to Almighty 
 God that I returned to the house. There are surely wonderful 
 days in store for the Pan jab ! But will not God's people 
 arise ? Will not Christians at home stir themselves ? Do not 
 any at home hear the cry from the Panjab, " Come over and 
 help us " ? Or will Christian men at home continue to sing 
 with complacency, " Here am I, send me, send me," and 
 yet stir neither hand nor foot to go themselves or to send 
 others in their stead? Surely some Christian layman in 
 Scotland, who has means to support himself, and whose 
 heart the Lord has touched, should see in the position of 
 affairs here in Sealkote a call to come and stand by the 
 side of his devoted countryman, Mr. Youngson, who, by 
 reason of the very blessing that is attending his work 
 and that of his native assistants, is almost bewildered and 
 crushed by the weight of responsibility that now rests 
 upon him. I am convinced that, were the Church of 
 Scotland but to realise the true state of matters the 
 glorious harvest of precious souls that is waving on all sides 
 in the Panjab at present, and that is not being reaped, and 
 cannot be reaped, just because of the paucity of labourers, 
 they would never as a Church allow this state of matters to 
 remain. Mr. Youngson is the sole representative of the 
 Church in this immense district of 700,000 souls; and there 
 are sixty-four Christian villages to be looked after. Yester- 
 day, Pastor Nathu Mai, a native minister ordained by the 
 Sealkote Presbytery, baptised twenty-seven persons, and 
 came in to tell us the good news to-day. That just means 
 another little flock, added to the already numerous flocks, to 
 be cared for and fed with the bread of life. Who is to do 
 it ? How is it to be done ? 
 
 In the evening Mr. Youngson and I drove into canton- 
 ments, and I gave an address to some soldiers, and after- 
 wards we remained a long time with them singing hymns. 
 How hearty these Christian soldiers are ! I had a con- 
 
 L
 
 1 62 A NOVEL LANTERN EXHIBITION. 
 
 versation with two men afterwards. Both professed to be 
 anxious. One of them said that he there and then accepted 
 Christ as his Saviour ; but the other, an old soldier, could 
 not make up his mind. God only knows how it was with 
 either. 
 
 March 24. After breakfast Mr. Youngson and I went 
 over to call upon some of the American missionaries, 
 Dr. and Mrs. Stewart, and were fortunate in finding them 
 at home. The American U. P. missionaries occupy this 
 part of the Panjab in great force, comparatively speaking, 
 and are having great success in their work amongst the low 
 caste people. In the evening I drove out to a village some 
 distance, to assist Mr. Youngson in a novel entertainment. 
 He was about to exhibit his magic-lantern to the villagers, 
 but instead of having it, as we are accustomed to do, in a 
 hall or large room, we just had it in the open air, under 
 some of the village trees, with our sheet hung against 
 one of the houses. The people seemed to appreciate it 
 immensely, and the head man was very anxious that 
 we should remain the night with them, and partake of 
 whatever hospitality the village might be able to afford. 
 While there some candidates were presented to Mr. 
 Youngson for baptism, but he and I did not consider them 
 fit for the ordinance. They did not seem to understand 
 what they were about to do, and so they were asked to 
 wait a little till they might be instructed more perfectly. 
 When we were leaving the village the head man again 
 begged of us to stay for the night ; and when we begged to 
 be excused, he said, "Mere waste sharmindagi hogi" 
 ("it will be as a slight to me"). We managed, however, 
 to convince him that no slight was intended. 
 
 March 25. I have heard to-day of a leper asylum about 
 nine miles from here, but unfortunately cannot manage 
 the time to go and see it. Went again into cantonments, 
 and had another meeting with the soldiers.
 
 ATTACKED BY BEES. 163 
 
 March 26. Started for the train after breakfast, Mr. 
 Youngson kindly driving me to the station. We were 
 attacked by bees on the way, and had to stop and loose our 
 mare, and let her flee across the fields. We ourselves went 
 on in the baggage-cart, but the bees again attacked us, 
 or rather attacked me, for they did not touch Mr. Youngson. 
 I had a tremendous fight with them, and with some 
 difficulty reached the station, but fortunately got but one 
 sting, though at one time my hair was full of bees. They 
 even followed me into the train, and I had gone some 
 little distance before I got rid of the last of them. At 
 Wazirabad some native Christians met me, old friends, 
 and we had a little talk together, as the train waited for a 
 considerable time. When the Lahore train came in I 
 found the St. Dalmases were in it. This was our fifth 
 meeting since my arrival in Bombay. We travelled as far 
 as Jhelum together, and I went on to Rawal Pindee, 
 where I arrived at 10.40 p.m. 
 
 March 27. Rawal Pindee. This has been a station of 
 the American Presbyterian Mission for many years. The 
 missionaries here at present are Mr. Ullmann and Mr. and 
 Mrs. Robert Morrison. (Mr. Herron, Mrs. Morrison's father, 
 also lives here, but has retired from the mission.) Mr. and 
 Mrs. Morrison have very kindly taken me in as their guest 
 during my stay. 
 
 I visited the Leper Asylum this morning with Mr. Herron; 
 it is well situated in a shady grove of trees, and there are 
 houses for about 70 inmates. There are at present 22 
 men and 7 women, besides 4 little children. The lepers 
 get an allowance of 3 rupees a month each from the munici- 
 pality. They are all Mohammedans. The men complained 
 bitterly of not getting an allowance of oil for medicinal 
 purposes, and certainly they are in a horrible condition, 
 and look thoroughly neglected ; they say that the native 
 doctor visits them only once a month. There were many
 
 164 LAHORE. 
 
 more inmates at one time, but some have been turned 
 adrift ; there seem to be no proper precautions taken against 
 the mingling of the sexes. Mr. Herron takes a very kind 
 interest in them, and visits the institution regularly, but as 
 it is under municipal management he has no control over it 
 whatever. 
 
 The native morning service here takes the form of a 
 catechetical Bible-class, and immediately afterwards there is 
 a Sunday-school for heathen boys, which is well attended. 
 Mr. Ullmann conducted the evening service for the native 
 Christians; he has a wonderful command of Hindustani, 
 and is a well-known writer and translator of hymns in the 
 vernaculars. 
 
 March 30. Lahore. After a few very pleasant days at 
 Rawal Pindee, I left there last night by the 8.10 train, Mr. 
 Herron very kindly seeing me off at the station, and arrived 
 here at 8.45 this morning, when I at once drove to Mr. 
 and Mrs. Burney's house ; they are old friends, and are 
 kindly putting me up. Mr. Burney is a member of the 
 Indian Civil Service, and one of the judges of the chief 
 court here. 
 
 I went to-day with Mrs. and Miss Burney to a Convoca- 
 tion of the Panjab University, to witness the ceremony of 
 conferring the degree of D. O. L. (Doctor of Oriental 
 Learning) on Sir C. U. Aitchison, the retiring Lieutenant- 
 Governor ; and in the evening went, as Mr. Burney's guest, 
 to the farewell dinner given in Sir Charles' honour. 
 
 March 31. I went to-day to visit the grave of my 
 brother's little boy, who met with such a sad death when the 
 Prince of Wales was in Lahore. Poor little Bertie went 
 out one evening, with his brothers and sisters and the native 
 servants, for the usual evening airing ; he was only four 
 years of age, and was put on a pony, a native servant 
 holding him on, and a sais (groom) leading the pony. 
 Suddenly a native prince (there were several in Lahore at
 
 LITTLE BERTIE! 165 
 
 the time, doing honour to His Royal Highness) went 
 galloping by with his retinue, and Bertie's pony took fright 
 and bolted ; he got away from both the servants, though 
 the sais held on to the reins for some time, and was dragged 
 along on his back for a considerable distance. Little Bertie 
 fell over, and, his foot becoming fast in the stirrup leather, 
 he was dragged along on his head. The pony kicked him 
 several times, and jumped two low walls before he was 
 stopped, the poor child all the time hanging by one little 
 foot from the stirrup ; finally the pony was caught, but the 
 child only breathed a few seconds. Within half an hour 
 from the time when his parents had sent him out with his 
 brothers and sisters, full of health and spirits, they were 
 carrying him home in their arms a mangled corpse ! Awful 
 depth of agony for the heart-broken parents, but short and 
 swift transit for the child-soul into the Saviour's bosom. 
 
 " Rest for the little sleeper, 
 
 Joy for the weary lamb ; 
 Safe with his tender Keeper, 
 Could there be sweeter balm ? " 
 
 I called to-day upon my old friends the American 
 missionaries, Drs. J. Newton and C. W. Forman, two men 
 so long in the field, and so well known and esteemed, that 
 it would be superfluous my saying much about them. Dr. 
 Newton is perhaps the oldest missionary at present in India, 
 and Dr. Forman has been in the field for a great many 
 years; the latter has been especially successful as an 
 educationist. 
 
 The Church Missionary Society also occupies this station, 
 and has a very fine divinity school, in which Bishop French, 
 Mr. Hooper, Dr. Weitbrecht, and Mr. Shirreff have all been 
 labouring from time to time. The American Mission, 
 however, has been established here since 1849, and has at 
 present in its boys' schools over 1500 boys. As to the 
 spiritual results attained in these schools the missionaries
 
 166 RELIGIOUS BOOK AND TRACT SOCIETY. 
 
 speak very honestly in their report for 1885, and their 
 testimony is valuable after their long experience. They say, 
 " As an evangelistic agency we cannot speak highly of our 
 schools, at least so far as actual conversions are concerned ; 
 two pupils have been baptised, one of whom is not a very 
 bright Christian, and the other apostatized soon after his 
 baptism, and became what he had been before a bitter 
 opponent." 
 
 Their present staff consists of the two European mission- 
 aries above mentioned, and several lady workers, besides 
 several native Christian preachers and teachers, and a native 
 Christian doctor. 
 
 The Indian Female Normal School Society is doing good 
 work here. There are four ladies ; Miss Keay, superin- 
 tending the Christian Girls' Boarding School an excellent 
 institution, and very popular amongst the native Christians 
 in the Panjab and Miss Healy, Miss Aitkin, and Miss 
 McPhun, all engaged in zenana work, and city schools for 
 heathen girls. 
 
 The Panjab Religious Book and Tract Society has its 
 head-quarters here; it is superintended by the C M. S. 
 missionaries, and is doing good work in disseminating 
 Christian literature all over the Panjab. 
 
 April i. Went with Mr. and Mrs. Burney to-day to see 
 Sir C. U. Aitchison off at the railway station. He is 
 leaving for home. There were a great many people to see 
 him off, both Europeans and natives. He is a great 
 favourite with the latter, and as he walked from his carriage 
 to the train they showered rose leaves over him all the 
 way a strange ovation to our European eyes.
 
 FEROZEPORE. 167 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 FEROZEPORE, ULWAR, AGRA, AND JEYPORE. 
 
 April 2. Left Lahore at 2.30 p.m., and arrived at 
 Ferozepore at 8 p.m., where I was met by my old friend, 
 the Rev. F. Newton, of the American Presbyterian Mission, 
 which is the only mission here. Though this is but a short 
 distance from Lahore, it is a somewhat tiring journey, 
 owing to the changes and exposure to the sun, but by- 
 and-bye, when the new bridge is opened, it will be an 
 easy matter. Already the temperature is becoming very 
 high, and the doors and windows of the houses have to be 
 closed during the heat of the day. 
 
 The missionaries here at present are Mr. and Mrs. 
 F. Newton, and Mrs. Morrison, widow of the late Rev. 
 J. H. Morrison, D.D. 
 
 April 3. I had the privilege of conducting service for 
 the Nonconformist soldiers here this morning, and in the 
 evening went to the Hindustani service, conducted by 
 Mr. Newton. 
 
 I was introduced to-day to Mr. Maya Das, Rai Bahadur, 
 Extra Assistant Commissioner, a native Christian gentleman 
 baptised some years ago by the American missionaries. 
 He is a man of considerable position and influence. He 
 introduced me to his lady-like wife and his children. He 
 said to me afterwards that he was one of those who could 
 say that they had "received an hundredfold more in this 
 life."
 
 168 ULWAR. 
 
 April 4. I visited Miss Emma Fuller's grave to-day. 
 She was a faithful missionary of the Indian Female Normal 
 School Society, who laboured for many years in Lahore, 
 and for the last two years of her life in this place. She 
 lies buried in the cemetery here. Left at 5 p.m. for 
 Ulvvar. 
 
 April 5. Ulwar. I arrived here at noon to-day, and 
 was met by the Rev. Mr. Jameson, of the Scottish United 
 Presbyterian Mission. Mr. and Mrs. Jameson are my kind 
 host and hostess. There are also here of the same society 
 Mr. and Mrs. Ashcroft. The Scottish United Presbyterian 
 Mission occupy the whole of Rajpootana in strong force, 
 and are engaged in various kinds of mission work. They 
 have several medical missionaries, and now occupy, besides 
 this station, Ajmere, Ashapura, Beawar, Deoli, Jeypore, 
 Nusseerabad, Oodeypore, Todgarh, and Jodhppre. They 
 have at present 16 missionaries, and 9 lady missionaries, 
 37 native agents, and a Christian community of 1019, 
 with 445 communicants. They commenced work in Beawar 
 in 1860. 
 
 About 5 o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Jameson and I went 
 to the native church, where a number of heathen boys 
 were assembled to sing bhajans and hymns, and to have an 
 object lesson from Mr. Jameson. It was most interesting, 
 and the boys seemed thoroughly to enjoy it. The church 
 is a pretty building, made of beautiful stone and well 
 designed. The buildings here are all good, and the streets 
 are paved. The Maharaja seems to take a great pride in 
 the place. We drove by the palace and through the gardens 
 on our way home. In this place the peafowl are sacred, so 
 one meets them strutting about at every turn. They are a 
 great ornament. 
 
 April 6. Agra. Left Ulwar last night at 10.10 p.m., 
 and arrived here a little before eight this morning. Dr. and 
 Mrs. Valentine and Miss Christie kindly met me at the
 
 AGRA MEDICAL MISSION. 169 
 
 railway station, and drove me home to their house, the 
 Agra Medical Mission and Training Institute. This insti- 
 tution has been lately affiliated with the Edinburgh Medical 
 Mission, and trains native Christian lads and young men to 
 be medical missionaries. It is an admirable idea, and well 
 worthy of support, more especially as it works on the 
 catholic basis of training lads from all the different 
 Protestant missions, without regard to denomination. 
 Dr. Valentine has only quite lately returned to the country, 
 but has already got a number of students at work. They 
 live on the premises, and have a good set of rooms in 
 a separate enclosure for themselves. It takes about 16 a 
 year to keep a lad at the Institute and give him his 
 training. This work surely should recommend itself to 
 those who believe in raising up a native agency for the 
 evangelization of India. 
 
 There is a weekly prayer meeting held here at the 
 Medical Mission, and this being the evening for it, it 
 was conducted by Mr. Jones, of the Baptist Mission, 
 who gave an interesting account of the founding of the 
 Baptist Mission in Agra by Chamberlain. There was a 
 very good attendance, and I noticed several soldiers. 
 Mr. and Mrs. Pargiter, of the C. M. S., were present, and 
 there was another Baptist missionary besides Mr. Jones. 
 There seemed to be a great heartiness about the meeting, 
 and after it was over several people remained and joined 
 in singing hymns for some considerable time. It is very 
 refreshing, after the hard and fast lines one sometimes finds 
 laid down at home, to see the way in which the missionaries 
 of the different evangelical societies out here will draw 
 together, though, of course, there are exceptions. 
 
 April 7. Before breakfast drove out to Secundra to see 
 Akbar's tomb, and that of his wife Miriam. She was 
 a Christian. 
 
 Many years ago, after a terrible famine, Miriam's tomb
 
 170 SECUNDRA ORPHANAGE. 
 
 (it is on the plan of most of these Mahommedan mausoleums, 
 very large, and surrounded by rooms, halls, and passages), 
 \vith all the land appertaining thereto, a considerable 
 quantity, was handed over to the C. M. S. missionaries 
 by the Government, that they might establish an orphanage 
 for the many waifs and strays who had been left on 
 their hands after the famine, and as such it has continued 
 ever since. I was unfortunate in not seeing the boys 
 and girls to-day, except at a distance, as they were just 
 going in to morning service as I arrived. Mr. Erhart, 
 however, the missionary at present in charge, kindly sent a 
 native Christian to show me round the different depart- 
 ments. There are 150 girls, and 163 boys, and there 
 is a considerable colony of native Christians and their 
 families. 
 
 At 5 p.m. Dr. MacLaren, civil surgeon of Dehra, but 
 who is temporarily stationed in Agra, kindly called for me 
 and drove me out to the Leper Asylum ; it is about two 
 miles out, beyond the fort, on the river road. The Asylum 
 is a large enclosed place, a quadrangle with a high wall 
 running all round. There is a large gateway in front with 
 a cross on top, and there is the following inscription written 
 over the gate, "The Leper Asylum, constructed by direction 
 of the Agra Local Relief Society in 1861." Inside the 
 courtyard is cool and shady; there are several fine trees, 
 and the inmates seemed fairly comfortable, and well looked 
 after. There were 20 of them, 16 men and 4 women. 
 The men occupied one side of the courtyard, and the 
 women the opposite. There is a native doctor, who is 
 supposed to reside on the premises, and who has rooms 
 alongside of the gateway, where he has also a room for 
 medicines, &c., but the rooms did not give us the idea of 
 being occupied; this doctor gets 20 rupees a month. 
 There are also a few attendants, such as bihishti (water- 
 carrier), sweeper, and cook, to cook for the helpless. Mr.
 
 THE TAJ. 171 
 
 Jones, of the Baptist Mission, has kindly promised to 
 visit these lepers, and see what can be done for them 
 spiritually. 
 
 At night drove out with the Valentines to see the Taj by 
 moonlight ; this is the third time I have seen it, and each 
 time it appears more beautiful than the last. It seems to 
 grow on one ; the more you study it in detail, the more 
 you realise its perfections. I think it looks best in bright 
 moonlight. It is built of pure white marble, and is said to 
 have taken 20,000 workmen 22 years to complete, and to 
 have cost about ^3, 000,000, although the labour was 
 forced and under-paid, and much of the material the gift of 
 neighbouring princes. The marble plinth on which it 
 stands is 18 feet high, and 313 feet square. The mausoleum 
 itself covers a square of 186 feet, each of the four towers 
 is 137 feet high, and 213 feet is the height of the centre 
 dome. It was built by the Emperor Shah Jahan, in memory 
 of his favourite wife, Nur Jahan (also called Mumtaz-i-Mahal, 
 "the exalted of the palace"), who is said to have been a 
 woman of exquisite beauty, but a foundling, picked up in 
 the open field, as was also Sita, the beautiful and virtuous 
 wife of the hero Ram ; in memory of the one stands this 
 the most wonderful building in the world, and of the other 
 we have the Ramayan, that grand epic. 
 
 A recent traveller in India, in his book A Year in India, 
 thus describes the Taj : " It is the one perfect thing I have 
 seen in all my life, the single thing that exceeds all expecta- 
 tions, however great, and realises every ideal." This is 
 how he describes the interior: "Finally, with a subdued 
 feeling of awe, I ventured within the precincts of the fane 
 itself. A lantern held by a native showed me that I was 
 in a lofty vaulted chamber a white marble cavern indeed ; 
 the centre of the floor, enclosed by a screen of perforated 
 marble lattice-work so exquisitely wrought, seemed a web 
 woven by Nereids from the spume of the sea. Within,
 
 172 AGRA FORT. 
 
 side by side, are two cenotaphs, sarcophagus shaped, a 
 larger and a smaller one ; the former of Shah Jahan, and 
 the other of the Lady of the Taj. Both are of white 
 marble, festooned and garlanded with floral mosaics of 
 inlaid agate, heliotrope, carnelian, lapis -lazuli, and 
 other precious stones. The chamber is famed for the 
 beauty of its echo, as befits the voice of such a shrine. 
 I made bold to violate the stillness of the sanctuary by 
 a note or two as clear as I could shape them. I might 
 have saved myself all trouble; for however rough the 
 initial sounds may be, though they are raucous as those of 
 Codrus himself, they are caught up in the vaulted ceiling, 
 and verberated and re-verberated, till they become trans- 
 muted into tones of the most exquisite sweetness, finally 
 dying away in the distance in a note so soft that it might 
 well be the spirit-voice of the lovely Mumtaz calling from 
 the regions of the blest." 
 
 April 8. Dr. Valentine kindly took me to see the Fort in 
 the afternoon, a most interesting old place; the Pearl Mosque 
 in white marble is a gem ; and there are many other buildings 
 within the fort of the same material. We saw the rooms 
 and old cellars where the Europeans took refuge in the 
 Mutiny. I then bid good-bye to Dr. Valentine, and left 
 Agra by the 6.15 p.m. train, after having had a very pleasant 
 visit. 
 
 April g. Arrived at Jeypore at 5.30 this morning, and 
 was met by Mr. Macalister's servant and trap, and a kind 
 note of welcome. I at once drove out to the mission 
 premises. Messrs. Macalister, Grey, and Trail are the 
 missionaries of the Scottish United Presbyterian Mission 
 in charge of the work of this station at present ; but the 
 two latter are away on furlough just now, and so Mr. 
 Macalister with a brother of Mr. Grey's divide the re- 
 sponsibility between them. There are also several lady 
 missionaries ; this is the only society working here. I
 
 JEYPORE. 173 
 
 am the guest of Mr. and Mrs. Macalister during my 
 stay. 
 
 This place is rapidly becoming Europeanised, at least 
 outwardly ; the main street of the city is a splendid one, 
 and there are some very fine public buildings. His High- 
 ness the Maharaja is most anxious to improve his city in 
 every way, and is most ably seconded by his engineer, 
 Colonel Jacob, who is Superintendent of Public Works, 
 and whose tasteful designs are seen at every turn, notably 
 in the public gardens, which are beautifully laid out, just 
 such as one might expect to find in France or Italy ; in the 
 centre of the gardens stands the grand Museum and Albert 
 Hall, not yet quite finished, but already very beautiful. 
 
 Dr. George Smith says of this city, "Jaipoor (140,000), 
 greatest modern Hindoo city in Rajpootana (or in India), 
 founded 1728, by Jai Singh II., the famous astronomer 
 whose tables of stars (Tij Muhammad S/tahi) corrected 
 those of De la Hire, and one of whose five observatories is 
 still here. ... A beautiful walled city built largely of 
 marble in an amphitheatre of hills, commanded on N.W. 
 by the Nahargarh (tiger fort)." 
 
 The missionaries seem to be on excellent terms with the 
 natives. Mr. Macalister tells me that he never meets with 
 any trouble, and that the people are most friendly. The only 
 difficulty he has in the meantime is that he cannot succeed 
 in getting a site for a church ; but doubtless that difficulty 
 will be removed ere long. At present the Sunday services 
 are held in his own house. There are nine schools, three 
 in the city, and six outside, superintended by Mr. Macalister. 
 Mr. Trail's special work is itinerating and preaching in the 
 district. Mr. Macalister is confident that the work is being 
 blessed, and seems full of hope as to the future. 
 
 April 10. I had the pleasure of conducting the morning 
 service in Mr. Macalister's drawing-room. The service was 
 in Hindustani, and there was a good attendance, many
 
 174 A MAR DAS. 
 
 heathen being present, and a purdah-nishin (///., "seated 
 behind the curtain") woman, in whom Mrs. Macalister is 
 greatly interested, seated in the next room, with only a 
 thin curtain hanging between her and us. She is not 
 purdah in the strict sense, as she did not mind meeting 
 Mr. Macalister and me after service was over, but she does 
 not wish to be seen by the public. She belongs to a very 
 respectable family. 
 
 At the evening service I was introduced to Amar Das, a 
 blind man, and a Kabir Panthi. He has lately been 
 baptised, and seems a very intelligent, earnest fellow. 
 Mr. Macalister has given me one of the idols which 
 Amar Das broke up on becoming a Christian. I find 
 the following account of this man's conversion in a recent 
 report of this mission : 
 
 "Amar Das is the name of the other convert. He 
 is twenty-one years of age, and belonged to the sect of 
 the Kabir Panthis. When he was about eleven years old 
 he had the misfortune to lose his eyesight by an attack 
 of smallpox. His heartless mother, perceiving that he was 
 never likely to be anything except a burden to her, got rid 
 of him by handing him over to a Kabir Panthi who lived 
 in Sanganir. This man used to send Amar Das on begging 
 tours, and the poor blind boy appealing to the sympathies 
 of the people was a source of no small gain to his wily 
 superior. His superior died, and so did nearly all his 
 fellow-disciples ; at any rate, he has been left sole occupant 
 of his house, with its little temple attached to it. For some 
 years I have rented the court and a verandah belonging to 
 the house as a school-house. Amar Das has thus had many 
 opportunities of hearing the gospel when I was instructing 
 the boys. The Christian teacher there also has been 
 unwearied in satisfying the craving of the young man 
 for Bible knowledge. He was baptised some weeks ago at 
 his own earnest desire. This has alienated many of the
 
 CROCODILES. 175 
 
 people from him, and he has even had to bear a good deal 
 from the active opposition of some. The Christian teacher 
 and he comfort and edify one another, and count it joy 
 to suffer persecution for Christ's sake." 
 
 The Kabir Panthis are a religious sect among Hindus, 
 the followers of Kabir, who was looked upon as a kind 
 of reformer, but by some as a mere revolutionist. 
 
 April ii. Spent the morning in visiting the palace 
 grounds and garnet works with Mr. Macalister. Close 
 to the garnet works is a large reservoir full of crocodiles. 
 I counted as many as twenty -two at one time. The 
 creatures became quite excited when we called to them 
 from the bank, evidently expecting to be fed. 
 
 One of the Jeypore nobles called upon Mr. Macalister in 
 the afternoon. He is a gentlemanly, pleasant man, and is 
 very friendly towards the mission. 
 
 Left Jeypore at 6.40 p.m., Mr. and Mrs. Macalister 
 kindly seeing me off at the railway station, and arrived 
 in Ajmere at 11.40 p.m. Dr. Husband's trap met me 
 at the station, and when I arrived at the mission-house 
 (considerably after midnight) he himself got out of bed to 
 meet and welcome me. 
 
 April 12. This is a very pretty station, surrounded 
 by low hills, and has a beautiful clear lake. There is 
 an interesting old Jain temple, or rather the ruins of one. 
 It was taken by the Mahommedans. The idols were 
 scattered, and it was turned into a mosque for a time. 
 There are also some curious old tanks excavated from 
 the solid rock, with numerous steps leading down to 
 them ; and there is a very pretty little building, in white 
 marble, a kind of mosque, on the edge of the lake. 
 Mrs. Husband very kindly took me all round the place 
 before breakfast. We drove through the public gardens 
 and into the city, where we saw Dr. Husband busy at work 
 in his mission dispensary. He had many cases to attend
 
 176 THE MAYO COLLEGE. 
 
 to, and was terribly cramped for room. I afterwards called 
 upon the zenana missionaries, Mrs. Drinan and Miss Gow. 
 There is also a lady medical missionary here, a Miss 
 Young. 
 
 In the afternoon I drove out with Dr. Husband and saw 
 the Mayo College, and the different residences of the young 
 princes who live here, and are being educated at the college. 
 I afterwards went to the prayer meeting in the U. P. 
 church, which I had the privilege of conducting. Left 
 Ajmere after midnight, being seen off by Mr. Roy, an 
 old friend from Lahore, and Dr. Husband's brother-in-law.
 
 AHMEDABAD. 177 
 
 CHAPTER XVIIL 
 
 AHMEDABAD AND BOMBAY. 
 
 April 13. Ahmedabad. Arrived here at 5.30 p.m., and 
 was met by Mr. Taylor, of the Irish Presbyterian Mission, 
 who is, I find, a brother of Mr. Taylor, of the London 
 Mission in Almora. The Irish Presbyterian missionaries 
 have been in this part of the country, known as Gujarat, since 
 1841. In 1846 the London Missionary Society transferred 
 their station of Surat to these missionaries. In 1861 they 
 occupied Ahmedabad, which had been in the possession of 
 the Propagation Society, but from which they had withdrawn; 
 and finally we now find them well established here with 
 10 missionaries, 7 lady missionaries, 1418 native Christians, 
 and 302 communicants. (See Badletfs Missionary Directory.} 
 
 April 14. Mr. and Mrs. Taylor, who are my kind host 
 and hostess, seem much interested in their work. To-day 
 Mr. Taylor, a Dr. Robb (a gentleman from Aberdeen), and 
 I visited the Leper Asylum here. It is called the Dharm- 
 sala. There are 18 lepers 14 men and 4 women. There 
 is also a smallpox ward, and a ward for other incurables 
 besides lepers, but at present there are no smallpox cases. 
 The lepers seem comfortable and well cared for, but there 
 is no restraint of any kind put upon them ; they come and 
 go just as they like, and are professional beggars. Dr. Robb, 
 who is in charge of the place, would be very glad to see some 
 Christian work done amongst them ; and Mr. Taylor has 
 kindly promised to take the matter into his consideration, 
 and see what can be done. The Dharmsala is a large open 
 place, surrounded by a high wall, and the.houses are large and 
 
 M
 
 178 THE LAST BIT OF RAILWAY. 
 
 airy ; there are large trees too inside the place. Altogether, 
 it reminds one a good deal of the asylum at Agra. On 
 returning from the asylum we visited the mission-school, and 
 went round all the classes. There are about 300 boys. There 
 used to be about 500, but opposition schools have sprung 
 up, in which less fees are taken, and as a consequence this 
 school has suffered. The school building is a very fine one. 
 
 April 22. Bombay. I leave to-day for home by the P. & O. 
 steamer Coromandel, after spending a very pleasant week 
 with the missionaries of the C. M. S. in Girgaum, my good 
 friends, Messrs. Squires, Macdonald, and Harriss. 
 
 I arrived back safely in Bombay on the morning of the 
 1 5th, having accomplished my long journey of over 9400 
 miles without let or hindrance of any kind, thanks to the 
 protecting and guiding hand of a loving Father. 
 
 The last bit of railway journey between Ahmedabad and 
 Bombay is one of the most trying that I know of in India. 
 The second class carriages are badly constructed and 
 uncomfortable, and the black dust on the road is some- 
 thing awful. Should you lie down and manage to get oft 
 to sleep, when you awaken in the morning, if you look 
 at your pillow before disturbing it, you will find your profile 
 on it, nicely marked out in thick black dust. 
 
 It was refreshing to get to the cool breezes of Bombay 
 after the trying heat of the few previous days ; but though 
 one enjoys the gentle breezes of Bombay at first, you cannot 
 be very long in them without finding that they are most 
 enervating, or rather every now and then, when these breezes 
 die away, one feels overcome by the heavy muggy heat. The 
 climate of Bombay is different from everything that I know 
 of up country, and very trying to some constitutions, though 
 others again seem to enjoy very good health in it 
 
 I have paid one more visit to the Dharmsala in Byculla, 
 accompanied by Mr. and Mrs. Tisdal, of the C. M. S. ; 
 and Mr. Wann, of the Church of Scotland Mission, and 
 found there a man and his wife (Christians), members
 
 E. F. ALBLESS LEPERS' HOME. 179 
 
 of the Church of Scotland congregation. Both Mr. Tisdal 
 and Mr. Wann, who are new arrivals in Bombay, seem 
 greatly impressed by what they saw, and expressed their 
 willingness to help to reach these poor sufferers with 
 the gospel, if it could be arranged for, but it is a little 
 difficult, as the place is chiefly under native management. 
 
 I have also visited Bishop Meurin's institution at Trombay. 
 In order to do so, I left Byculla station by morning train 
 for Coorla, Mr. O' Conner, a member of the committee, 
 kindly accompanying me. On arrival at Coorla we took a 
 conveyance and drove out to Trombay, a distance of five 
 miles, where we saw what is known as the Eduljee Framjee 
 Albless Lepers' Home. The Home is in a large airy 
 bungalow, which stands on the top of a small hill. It has 
 comfortable accommodation for about 50 inmates, but has 
 only got 19 there at present all men. I was grieved to see 
 several little boys amongst the number. The place was very 
 clean, and the inmates looked contented and happy. There 
 were only about four really bad cases, and even they seemed 
 greatly relieved by the very kind medical care which was 
 being taken of them. The medical officer in charge seems 
 to take a great interest in the poor sufferers. Altogether, I 
 consider that the lepers in this institution are exceptionally 
 well cared for, and as a consequence their health is excep- 
 tionally good. The chief remedy used is Chaulmugra oil, 
 but there is a good supply of general medicines. 
 
 On the 1 6th I called upon Miss Richardson, who has 
 lately come to Bombay to engage in rescue work as an 
 honorary worker. We had a pleasant chat together and 
 a little prayer. She seems very hopeful about her work, 
 but sadly needs another lady, like-minded with herself. I 
 earnestly trust that she may not be long without one. 
 
 How much India needs more of these honorary workers ! 
 I have already mentioned this in these notes, and I become 
 more and more impressed by it. We require now for India 
 men and women of means and position the very best,
 
 l8o "COME OVER . . . AND HELP US," 
 
 the very flower of our land, educationally and spiritually 
 who will give themselves and their all to Christ for the 
 evangelization of India. The reason that I advocate those 
 of means and position is, not that I look upon these things 
 as by any means the necessary qualifications for missionary 
 work, but just because such men and such women will not 
 be a burden to any missionary society in the matter of 
 funds ; and they would never think of coming out, as I say, 
 unless they were thoroughly in earnest. 
 
 I would not advise them to come out here as "free 
 lances," and set up organizations of their own, but rather 
 to join the old and tried missionaries of the field, under 
 whatever society they like best, and so strengthen their 
 hands and lighten their burdens, and thus assist to carry on 
 one of the most glorious works that ever mortal engaged in. 
 How one's spirit grieves to see the way in which Christian 
 workers are overlapping each other at home, while the needs 
 are so overwhelming out here, and the openings so many ; 
 and then, too, out here there is every kind of work. There 
 are many places all over the country where there are scattered 
 Europeans who scarcely ever see the face of a minister of 
 the gospel, and rarely ever enter a church door. 
 
 Here too we have every kind of climate, every kind 
 of scenery, and every kind of people to work amongst. I 
 am convinced that if many of the Lord's children at home 
 only understood India and its needs, nothing would induce 
 them to remain in gospel-privileged, gospel-hardened, well- 
 missioned Great Britain. 
 
 "AFTER THIS I BEHELD, AND, LO, A GREAT MULTITUDE, 
 
 WHICH NO MAN COULD NUMBER, 
 OF ALL NATIONS, AND KINDREDS, AND PEOPLE, AND TONGUES, 
 
 STOOD BEFORE i HE THRONE, AND BEFORE THE LAMB, 
 CLOTHED WITH WHITE ROBES, AND PALMS IN THEIR HANDS ; 
 
 AND CRIED WITH A LOUD VOICE, SAYING, 
 
 SALVATION TO OUR GOD WHICH SITTETH UPON THE THRONE, 
 
 AND UNTO THE LAMB."
 
 APPENDIX. 
 
 Article from "Bombay Gazette? 2<f.tk February, 1888. 
 
 " A LOCAL contemporary has suddenly become conscious of the 
 fact that lepers afforded shelter in the Dhurrumsala in the 
 native town are a source of danger. This is a matter of 
 ancient history. So far back as 1875, when the Prince of Wales 
 was a visitor to this city, Mr. Grattan Geary drew prominent 
 attention to the danger in an article, which was subsequently 
 incorporated by Mr. Wellesley Bailey in his pamphlet on the 
 leper question. Our contemporary does not appear to be aware 
 of the fact, that so great was the evil then acknowledged to be 
 that it was proposed to build a Leper Asylum in Bombay. The 
 total sum required to carry out the proposal was 150,000 rupees. 
 Half a lakh was conditionally promised, and the late Sir 
 Cowasjee Jehangier Readymoney offered to make up the large 
 sum still required one lakh on the condition that the Asylum 
 should be regarded as a memento of the visit of the Heir 
 Apparent to Bombay. Other counsels prevailed, and a memorial 
 .of the Royal visit is now extant in the bronze statue of the 
 Prince of Wales provided by Sir Edward Sassoon. Unfor- 
 tunately the scheme for the erection of a Leper Asylum fell 
 through, and it has since been found impossible to make 
 suitable and adequate provision for the unfortunate lepers. To 
 refresh the memory of the local Rip van Winkle, we reproduce 
 the article above referred to from Mr. Bailey's pamphlet : 
 
 " When the returning Crusaders introduced Leprosy into Western 
 Europe, and Lepers abounded in England, where they are now happily 
 unknown, the most energetic measures were taken by the secular 
 authorities, and by the church, to stamp out the hideous disease. They 
 were zealously seconded by the panic and superstition of the population 
 at large, and possibly owing to the severity of the measures taken, and 
 the completeness with which they were enforced, Leprosy has ceased 
 out of lands where it was once rampant, and now it is only in Norway 
 and in the Turkish Empire that the malady can be found in Europe. 
 It cannot, of course, be proved that the 'stamping out' process to 
 which we refer was the sole cause of this disappearance of Leprosy 
 from the countries in which it had apparently become acclimatised. 
 Some writers assert that it yielded in Ireland before the potent powers
 
 1 82 APPENDIX. 
 
 of whiskey. Usquebaugh, 'the water of life,' certainly came into use 
 when Leprosy was common, and in proportion as it became popular, 
 lepers became more rare. The theory that the consumption of spirits 
 had anything to do with the disappearance of the more terrible com- 
 plaint would doubtless commend itself to a set of jolly topers, or a 
 society of sanguine distillers, rather than to the medical profession ; we 
 have not heard that ' alcoholic stimulation ' has ever been seriously 
 recommended by the faculty as a remedy in this disease. The chief 
 agency in the extinction of leprosy in the West was doubtless ruthless 
 enforcement of the principle, that lepers should be completely cut off 
 from communication with society. Nearly every town in England had 
 its lazar-house, to which the infected were forced to betake themselves. 
 The leper was excommunicated ; he was regarded as virtually dead ; 
 he had no rights of property or of family. When he went abroad he 
 was obliged to carry a bell, and ring it in order that the healthy might 
 avoid him. He was looked upon as the special object of the displeasure 
 of heaven ; for him the church had no solace, and the world no pity. He 
 was regarded not only as a danger and a nuisance, but as sin personified. 
 The horror for the victim of such a situation must have been beyond 
 endurance ; but his complete physical and moral isolation undoubtedly 
 had its advantages for the rest of the community. The ancient Jews 
 were by the Mosaic dispensation enjoined to cast out the lepers from 
 their midst, not only as a sanitary precaution, but as a religious duty. 
 The disease being incurable, the necessity of protecting the sound from 
 falling under its influence overbore every consideration of regard for 
 the unfortunates who had already become a prey to it. In Norway 
 the humane spirit of this age endeavours to mitigate the sufferings of 
 the lepers, while carrying out the principle of segregation with great 
 strictness, in order to arrive at the ultimate extinction of the disease. 
 The Norwegian Leper Asylums cut off the afflicted from the rest of 
 the population, but secure to them all the alleviation which good air 
 and food, and the most effective medical treatment can give. 
 
 " In Bombay we do not follow the cruel but effective plan of the 
 men of the middle ages and of the old Jews, or the kindly but equally 
 effective system of the Norwegians. The lepers here are free to live 
 in the midst of the healthy ; they are not placed under any ban ; they 
 are not cared for ; they are allowed to beg, to starve, to die a horrible 
 death after a loathsome life, and neither religion, nor benevolence, nor 
 enlightened selfishness takes thought of them. It is held, we know, 
 that leprosy is not contagious. Medical men have made careful 
 enquiries, and the result has been that they have reported to Govern- 
 ment that the disease is not communicated by contagion. There are 
 many things that favour that view. There is a nest of lepers in one of 
 the most crowded parts of this city which would taint the blood of the 
 whole population, if leprosy were contagious in the sense that smallpox 
 is contagious. But it does not spread at all events not much. Yet it 
 continues to exist : the leper dies, but leprosy does not. How then 
 can it be perpetuated if it be not contagious in some degree, and under 
 conditions happily not widely prevalent, but of the nature of which we 
 as yet know little ? The malady is hereditary ; but that alone would 
 not account for even the limited extent to which it prevails. Doubtless, 
 when the system has been depressed, or otherwise prepared for the
 
 APPENDIX. 183 
 
 reception of the disease, contagion may set it up. But, whatever the 
 means, it is incontestible that it occasionally lays hold of victims free 
 from hereditary taint ; and to the extent to which this may happen 
 under favouring conditions, no one can venture to assign a limit. The 
 spread of the disease in Western Europe, after the return of the 
 Crusaders from the Holy Land, sufficiently establishes this fact. It 
 cannot therefore be regarded as a perfectly safe experiment to allow 
 lepers to congregate in the midst of a vast population like that of 
 Bombay, and leave them untended in their misery. 
 
 "Our esteemed correspondent 'C,' in a communication which we 
 publish elsewhere, draws attention to the state of the lepers who 
 have found a refuge in the Jamsetjee Jejeebhoy Dhurrumsala in 
 Byculla, at the junction of the Bellasis and the Duncan roads. That 
 institution founded for the relief of the destitute and the sick generally, 
 and not for lepers especially has, as our correspondent truly says, 
 proved a blessing to thousands of the afflicted. But it is in every 
 respect unsuitable for the reception of lepers. They are glad to find 
 a refuge there from the streets ; but no proper medical treatment is 
 possible, and none is even attempted. Such as it is, the Dhurrumsala 
 is the only place of refuge open for lepers. About 120 are lodged 
 in it at the present moment, and they share its scanty accommodation 
 with nearly an equal number of the blind, the lame, and the aged. 
 They live in chawls, each room or rather cell of which is about six 
 feet deep by five in width ; and so full is the institution that two 
 lepers occupy one of these cells. They have no furniture ; even 
 cooking utensils the inmates have to supply as best they can. Every 
 day two pounds of rice and three pice are given to each. If anyone 
 begs in the street, and is unfortunate enough to be found out, the 
 allowance of three pice for firewood is stopped for three days. This 
 is done to check the practice of begging ; and to some extent it limits 
 the exhibition of mutilations in the streets. Only those who are very 
 much afflicted indeed can be taken into the refuge ; those who are 
 not so bad are told to go away ; that is, they are in effect told to 
 go and beg, until they become bad enough to be admitted. It is only 
 in the very early stages of leprosy that treatment is of any avail in 
 retarding the progress of the disease ; and the fact of the newly- 
 attacked being systematically rejected at even the one institution that 
 is open to lepers shows how necessary it is that some proper provision 
 should be made. Within the Dhurrumsala there are men and women 
 and children. The latter are the offspring of the adults. They do 
 not, as a rule, show signs of the disease till they are about fifteen, 
 but it generally lays hold of them sooner or later. Children are born 
 to leper parents in the Dhurrumsala ; no separation of the sexes is 
 enforced or even thought of. * Yet anyone who, gathering together all 
 his resolution, can walk through, the narrow passages bet-ween the rows 
 of closets in which these lepers drag out an existence, that sums tip in 
 itself all that is most horrible and most repulsive in human suffering, 
 would counsel an inexorable separation in mercy to future generations. 
 Men and women with their limbs wasted, till only the outline of the 
 bones remain, or else swollen out of all form of limbs, sit or lie on 
 either hand; and at every few yards are to be seen wntches who have 
 
 * The italics are mine. W. C. B.
 
 184 APPENDIX. 
 
 lost fingers and toes, or even lands and feet, leaving nothing but useless 
 stumps, which continue to waste and slough. And for none is there 
 either medical care or medical comforts. The two pounds of rice, 
 and the three pice for fuel to boil it, constitute their only res&urce. 
 '1 hey sit in the sun with a sad, wondering expression on their un- 
 complaining faces, as if they could not comprehend why a load of woe 
 had been laid upon them which was too heavy for mortals to bear. 
 When they get ''very bad' very bad! they are told 'to go to the 
 hospital ;' but to the hospital they xvill not go unless forced. They 
 regard it as merely the portal to the dissecting-room and the grave, 
 and they prefer to die in the Dhurrumsala. No relative ever visits 
 them, or sends them food or money. They are cut off from their 
 families, and from the community of their native villages. No priest 
 of any faith, no doctor save one, whose name we are told not to 
 publish no man or woman goes amongst them to give material or 
 moral consolation of any kind.* They are abandoned of God and man; 
 and were it not that the Dhurrumsala gives them the half of a six-feet 
 cell in which to lie, and a handful of rice with which to sustain life, they 
 would die in their sores along our streets, and in our compounds. 
 
 " If we have hinted at the horrors contained within the narrow 
 bounds of the Dhurrumsala, and have called attention to the appalling 
 destiny reserved for those who are attacked by the most loathsome and 
 the most hopeless of all diseases, we have overcome our repugnance 
 to dwell upon the unwelcome subject, in the hope of arousing atten- 
 tion to great suffering, and to what may be a great danger in our 
 midst. It is not humane, it is not safe, that these wretched lepers 
 should be left festering, unrelieved and unthought of, in the midst of a 
 great city. We are quite convinced that if the reality were known 
 the Government or the public, or both together, would find means 
 to establish asylums for the victims of leprosy, where they could be 
 kept apart from the healthy community, and where something could 
 be done, if not to cure them, at least to mitigate their sufferings. 
 It is not creditable that such a state of things as that to which we have 
 adverted has been permitted to exist so long ; but it would be a 
 scandal to the Government, and a reproach to the community at 
 large, if it were permitted to continue, now that its existence has 
 been pointed out." 
 
 It would be possible to erect for a comparatively small sum 
 an asylum outside the city, consisting of rows of small huts, 
 such as are ordinarily occupied by the Indian, peasants. An 
 asylum of this kind would be less expensive to build and 
 maintain, while serving its purpose more efficiently, than the 
 ambitious project referred to by the Bombay Gazette. 
 
 The Secretaries of the Mission to Lepers in India would be 
 glad to receive communications from Christian friends, at home 
 or in Bombay, with a view to an immediate effort to improve 
 the condition, temporal and spiritual, of the lepers of Bombay. 
 
 * This is not quite correct, as missionaries occasionally visit them. W. C. B.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Abraham, 97, 98. 
 
 Agra, 168-172. 
 
 Agra Medical Mission Training 
 
 Institute, 169. 
 Ahmedabad, 177. 
 Aitchison, 164, 166. 
 Aitkin, 166. 
 Ajmere, 168, 175, 176. 
 Allahabad, 45-48. 
 Alleppey, 40-42. 
 Almora Asylum, n, 106-118, 126- 
 
 129, 133- 
 
 Ambala, 137, 140. 
 American Epis. Methodist Mission, 
 
 21, 45, 103, 105, 1 06, 122, 129, 
 
 130. 
 
 American Presbyterian Mission, 
 45, 46, 102, 130, 132, 137, 140, 
 141, 142, 163, 165-167. 
 
 American United Presbyterians, 
 57, 162. 
 
 Amritsar, 152, 153-158. 
 
 Anglo - Indian Evangelization 
 Society, 7, 34, 103. 
 
 Arconum, 26. 
 
 Arcot, 26, 28. 
 
 Ashapura, 168. 
 
 Ashcroft, 1 68. 
 
 Assam, 68, 71. 
 
 Backwater, 36, 38, 40. 
 
 Bageshwar, 106. 
 
 Ball, 87. 
 
 Bangalore, 29-31. 
 
 Bareilly, 106. 
 
 Barkhurdar, 150, 151. 
 
 Batsch, 54. 
 
 Baumann, 76-78, 80, 8l, 84, 90. 
 
 Beattie, 31. 
 
 Beaumont, 15. 
 
 Beawar, 168. 
 
 Benares, 98-100. 
 
 Bengal Census, 79, 80. 
 
 Berg, 71. 
 
 Bernard, 15, 17. 
 
 Betzler, 58. 
 
 Beyer, 58. 
 
 Bhagalpore, 96, 97. 
 
 Bheem Tal, 106, 129. 
 
 Bhose, 153. 
 
 Bishop, "32, 34, 35. 
 
 Boerresen, 65-68, 71-75. 
 
 Bombay, 1-14, 178, 179. 
 
 Bowen, 7, 13. 
 
 Bowles, 15^3. 
 
 Brahman Converts, 44, 80, 82. 
 
 Brahmo Somaj, 84-87. 
 
 Brand, 44. 
 
 Brandt, 54. 
 
 Bruske, 58. 
 
 Budden, 107, no, nr, 116, 117, 
 
 121-124, 127-129. 
 Bunkholdt, 71. 
 Burney, 158, 164, 166. 
 Butler, 97. 
 
 Calcutta, 75-90. 
 
 Campbell, 65. 
 
 Carter, 6, 14. 
 
 Caste, 33, 34. 
 
 Chamberlain, 169. 
 
 Chandag, 120-125. 
 
 Chapman, 21. 
 
 Charity Shed, Alleppey, 41. 
 
 Christian Church,oldestinIndia,4O. 
 
 Christiancy, 129. 
 
 Christie, 1 68. 
 
 Chumba, 138, 140, 147-151. 
 
 C. M. S., 15, 21, 32, 40, 44, 45, 
 loo, 103, 152, 157, 165, 166, 
 169, 170, 178. 
 
 C. E. Z. M. S., 34, 44, 97. 
 
 Church of Scotland, 21, 26, 29,- 
 57, 82, 92, 96, 150, 178, 179. 
 
 Church of Scotland Ladies' Asso- 
 ciation, 15, 17, 88, 96. 
 
 Clancy, 105. 
 
 Clark, 152.
 
 i86 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Cobban, 24. 
 
 Cochin, 38-40. 
 
 Cochin Lazarus Hospital, 37. 
 
 Cockin, 103. 
 
 Coleman, 34. 
 
 Coley, 116, 117. 
 
 Communion with Lepers, 80, 117. 
 
 Conklin, 27, 28. 
 
 Crittall, 7. 
 
 Cunningham, 113. 
 
 Dakjhu, 139. 
 
 Darjeeling, 90-96. 
 
 Dease, 106, 115, 120, 121. 
 
 Deauble, 44. 
 
 Dehra, 132-136. 
 
 Deoli, 1 68. 
 
 Dharmsala, Bombay, 7-13, 24, 
 
 80, 179. 
 
 Dickenson, 97, 98. 
 Downes, 150. 
 Drinan, 176. 
 Dufferin, 24, 89. 
 Dyer, 64, 65. 
 
 Ebenezer, 65-75. 
 
 Edinburgh Medical Mission, 169. 
 
 Edwards, 83, 87. 
 
 E. F. Albless Lepers' Home, 1 79. 
 
 Eidness, 58. 
 
 Elliott, 102. 
 
 Elmslie, 150. 
 
 Ellwood, 44. 
 
 English, 129. 
 
 Erhart, 170. 
 
 Eurasian Lepers, 6, 80. 
 
 European Lepers, 6, 23, 80. 
 
 Ewen, 98-100. 
 
 Ewing, 130. 
 
 Faizabad, 100-102. 
 
 Fakirs, 48, 51. 
 
 Fallon, 101, 102, 135. 
 
 Fancke, 54. 
 
 Female Education in the East 
 
 Society, 142. 
 Ferguson, 150. 
 Ferozepore, 167, 168. 
 Forman, 45, 158, 165. 
 Free Church of Scotland, 17, 19, 
 
 21, 22, 64, 65. 
 
 French, 165. 
 
 Fuller, 168. 
 
 Geary, II. 
 
 Geisinger, 132. 
 
 Gell, 21. 
 
 Gemsky, 56. 
 
 Ghose, 80. 
 
 Gill, 129. 
 
 Gossner's Mission, 50-64. 
 
 Government House, 89. 
 
 Government Leper Hospital, 
 
 Madras, 23. 
 Gow, 176. 
 Grant, 96, 97. 
 Greenfield, 142. 
 Gregory, 97. 
 Gregson, 31. 
 Grey, 172. 
 Guilford, 153-156. 
 
 Harm, 58-62. 
 
 Haldwani, 106. 
 
 Hall, 76. 
 
 Hamilton, 83. 
 
 Harrington, 76. 
 
 Harriss, 101, 135, 178. 
 
 Hazaribagh, 63, 04. 
 
 Healy, 166. 
 
 Heathen Servants, Duty to, 27, 28. 
 
 Heckhuis, 27, 28. 
 
 Henry, 141. 
 
 Herron, 133, 136, 163, 164. 
 
 Hewlett, loo, 107, 113, 117. 
 
 Hooper, 45, 46, 165. 
 
 Hudson, 30. 
 
 Huemann, 66. 
 
 Husband, 175, 176. 
 
 I. F. N. S. & I. Society, 7, 45, 
 47. 97, 98, loo, 103, 142, 158, 
 166, 1 68. 
 
 Ilahi Bakhsh, 141. 
 
 Imad-ud-din, 152. 
 
 Indian Home Mission to Santals, 
 
 65-75- 
 Insell, 6, 15. 
 Irish Presbyterian Mission, 177. 
 
 Jabalpur, 43, 44. 
 Jacob, 82, 173. 
 James, 47.
 
 INDEX. 
 
 187 
 
 Jameson, 168. 
 
 Janvier, 141. 
 
 Jawahir, 138. 
 
 Jews, White and Black, 39. 
 
 Jeypore, 168, 172-175. 
 
 J. J. Hospital, 6, 10. 
 
 Jodhpore, 168. 
 
 Johnson, 6, 15, 38. 
 
 Jollie, 30. 
 
 Jones, 6, 169, 171. 
 
 Kaehlar, 47. 
 
 Kalimpong, 93. 
 
 Katgodam, 106. 
 
 Keay, 166. 
 
 Kelso, 130. 
 
 Keshub Chander Sen, 8l, 84-87. 
 
 Kiefel, 63, 64. 
 
 Kinchinchunga, 91, 93. 
 
 King's Poor House, 103-105. 
 
 Kirk, 115, 121. 
 
 Knowles, 57. 
 
 Knox, 47. 
 
 Kuri, 117. 
 
 Lahore, 158, 164-166. 
 Lawson, 129. 
 Lewis, 103, 113. 
 Liquor Traffic, 69. 
 Lodiana, 141-146. 
 Lohardugga, 55, 58-62. 
 London Missionary Society, 21, 
 
 30, 41, 100, 107, 122. 
 Lucas, 45. 
 Lucknow, 103-106. 
 
 Macalister, 172-175. 
 Macdonald, 178. 
 Macfarlane, 93, 95. 
 Mackintosh, 96. 
 Me Comb, 141-143. 
 McGilliwie, 88. 
 McLaren, 132, 133, 170. 
 McPhun, 158, 1 66. 
 Madras, 19-25. 
 Madras Christian College, 21. 
 Mag Mela, 48. 
 Manoah, 134. 
 Marcus, 117, 127, 129. 
 Mariners' Church, 126, 127. 
 Marston, 103. 
 Maya Das, 167. 
 
 Meurin, 12, 179. 
 
 Meyeis, 7i 141. 
 
 Miller, 21, 87. 
 
 Miriam, 126, 127. 
 
 Mission to Lepers, 21, 42, 51, 
 
 121, 130, 133, 154. 
 Mitchell, 33. 
 Monegur Choultry, 23. 
 Morrison, 140, 141, 163, 167. 
 Mullins, 30. 
 Muston, 66. 
 Musuwa, 113, 117. 
 
 Nairs, 40. 
 
 Nathu Mai, 161. 
 
 Newton, 137, 141, 142, 155, 
 
 165, 167. 
 Nicholson, 134. 
 Niven, 88. 
 Nusseerabad, 168. 
 
 Onasch, 55-58. 
 Oodeypore, 168. 
 Orbison, 141. 
 Oxenham, 16. 
 
 Pachamba, 64, 65. 
 
 Padiya, 133-136. 
 
 Pallypuram, 36, 
 
 Panjab Religious Book and Tract 
 
 Society, 166. 
 Pargiter, 169. 
 Parker, 6. 
 Parsons, 107, no. 
 Paterson, 28. 
 Patna, 97, 98. 
 Pendleton, 132, 134, 135. 
 Perkins, 152, 153, 157. 
 Phangu, 149-151. 
 Pinniger, 97. 
 
 Pithoragarh, 106,107, 115,120-125. 
 Poli, 150, 151. 
 Polwarlh, 152. 
 Poona, 15-19. 
 Poonen, 41. 
 Pulus, 150. 
 Purulia, 49-52. 
 
 Rahmat, 142, 143. 
 Ram Mohan Roy, 86. 
 Ramsay, 106, 107, no, 115, 
 126, 128.
 
 'i88 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Ramsay College, 1 26.^ 
 
 Ranchi, 54-58, 03. 
 
 Ranibagh, 106. 
 
 Ranipett, 27, 28. 
 
 Rawal Pindee, 136, 163, 164. 
 
 Reay, 16. 
 
 Redmayne, 97. 
 
 ReformedChurchofAmerica,27-29 
 
 Reid, 96. 
 
 Reuther, IO2. 
 
 Rice, 26, 30. 
 
 Richards, 40-42. 
 
 Richardson, 179. 
 
 Rieman, 58. 
 
 Robb, 177. 
 
 Roberts, 6, 7, 137, 140. 
 
 Rowe, 34. 
 
 Rudolph, 141. 
 
 Rurki, 130. 
 
 Sabathu, 137-140. 
 
 Sadharna Somajh, 85. 
 
 Saharanpore, 129^ 130, 133, 136. 
 
 St. Dalmas, 7, 103, 131, 157, 163. 
 
 Samson, 76. 
 
 Sapadoha, 73-75. 
 
 Schatz, 54. 
 
 Scott, 129, 152. . 
 
 Scottish United Presbyterians, 82, 
 
 168, 172-175. 
 Scudder, 29. 
 Sealkote, 158-163. 
 Sealey, 38. 
 
 Secundra Orphanage, 170. 
 Sell, 21. 
 Shirreff, 165. 
 Shoolbred, 82. 
 Singhani, 63, 64. 
 Skrefsrud, 66, 70, 72. 
 Slater, 30. 
 Small, 15, 19. 
 Smith, 82, 83, 87, 173. 
 Sohan Lai, 149, 150. 
 Sorabji, 15, 16. 
 Souza, de, 130. 
 Squires, 178. 
 Stephens, 22. 
 Stevenson, 65. 
 
 Stewart, 162. 
 Strong, 22. 
 Sukkhu, 60, 6l. 
 Surjhu, 73-75. 
 Sutherland, 93. 
 Syrian Church, 41. 
 
 Tagore, 86. 
 Tahal Singh, 160. 
 Taj Mahal, 171, 172. 
 Tarn Taran, 153-157. 
 Taylor, 116, 1 20, 177. 
 Thackwell, 132, 134, 135. 
 Theophilus, 22. 
 Thompson, 23, 24, 89. 
 Tisdal, 179. 
 Todhgarh, 168. 
 Trail, 172, 173. 
 Travancore, 33-42. 
 Trichur, 31-35. 
 Trombay, 12, 179.. 
 Turnbull, 92-96. 
 
 Uffmann, 49-52. 
 Ullmann, 163, 164. 
 Ulwar, 1 68., 
 
 Valentine, 1 68, 169, 171, 172. 
 
 Vaughan, 84. 
 
 Vellore, 28, 29. 
 
 Victoria High School, 16. 
 
 Walker, 148, 150, 151. 
 
 Wann, 178, 179. 
 
 Wauton, 152. 
 
 Wazirabad, 158. 
 
 Weber, 97. 
 
 Weitbrecht, 165. 
 
 Wei land, 84. " 
 
 Wesleyans, 21, 24, 30, IOO, IO2. 
 
 West, 142, 143. 
 
 Wherry, 130, 132,. 145. 
 
 Wigram, 21, 42. 
 
 Wilson, 83. 
 
 Woodside, 136. 
 
 Wyckojfif, 137, 139, 140. 
 
 Youngson, 158, 160-163. 
 
 London: JOHN. F. SHAW & Cq., 48, Paternoster Row, E.C.,
 
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