UC-NRLF 
 
 llllllll 
 
 tig***' 
 
 »v 
 
 l e 
 
 i &m ' ** 
 
 - * 
 
 :*^ 
 
 
 £*> •* 
 
 ife 
 
 
TRAVELS 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 LOWER CANADA, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 UNITED STATES 
 
 OF 
 
 NORTH AMERICA, 
 
 in the years 
 1806, 1807, and 1808. 
 
 TO WHICH ARE ADDED, 
 
 Biographical Notices and Anecdotes of some of the leading Cha- 
 racters in the United States; and of those who have, at va- 
 rious Periods, borne a conspicuous fart in 
 the Politics of that Country. 
 
 BY JOHN JLAJLBERT. 
 
 IN THREE VOLUMES. 
 
 witzi jsxglr av ^v, as. 
 VOL, If. '• 
 
 |-jmWi.» 
 
 LONDON: 
 PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, 
 
 BRIDGE-STREET, BLACKFRIARS. 
 
 1810. 
 
 T.Gillet, Printer, Crown-court, Fleet-strftl. 
 
£$/ 
 
 rx. 
 
 ■ ■ ■ • 
 
CONTENTS, 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 CHAP., XXIII. 
 
 Leave Quebec. Mode of Travelling. Steam Boat. Schoo- 
 ners. Voyage to Three Rivers. Beautiful Scenes. Eel 
 Traps. Spearing Fish by Torch Light. Second Journey to 
 Three Rivers by Land. Pass the River at Cape Rouge. 
 Arrive at Jacques Cartier. Rapid Torrent. New Bridge. 
 Post House. Monsieur Garnoux, the Blacksmith. Des- 
 chambault. Seigniory of Grondines. St. Anne. Charles 
 Lanaudiere, Esq, Grand Voyer of the Province. Batiscan. 
 Iron Works. Champlain. Rivulets. Bridges. Canadian 
 Farms. Roman Catholic Crosses. Post House at Cape 
 Madelaine. Arrival at Three Rivers - page 1 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Town of Three Rivers. Houses. Streets. Musquitos. 
 Fleas. Baron La Hontan. Public Buildings. Fire at the 
 Convent. Intrepidity of a Soldier. Escape of a Nun with 
 an Emigrant Priest. New Convent. Visit to the Nuns of 
 St. Ursule. Abbe de Calonne, Cure of the Convent. Por- 
 trait of the Grand Vicar. Advice to Clergymen. Setting 
 "Watches during the Litany. Monastery. Billiard Room. 
 Canadian Fencibles. Deserters. Death of a Canadian. The 
 
 Irish Landlady. Anecdote of Colonel T . Cure of a 
 
 Locked Jaw. Trade of Three Rivers. Storekeepers. Visit 
 to the Forges of St. Maurice. Iron Works. Brickmaker. 
 vol. ii. a 
 
IV CONTENTS. 
 
 Society. Party Spirit. The Election of Mr. Ezekiel Hart. 
 Amusements. Scuffle in the Market Place. Swelled Necks. 
 Mad Girl. Foundlings - - page 14 
 
 t 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Leave Three Rivers. Voyage to Montreal. Point du Lac. 
 Baron de Becancour. Lake St. Peter. Machiche. River 
 du Loup. Richlieu Islands. Town of Sorel. Horrid 
 Murders. Captain Sorel. ChambJy. Boucherville. Eagle 
 Island. Island of Montreal. Rapids. Incredible Anecdote. 
 Island of St. Helen. City of Montreal. Ignorance of a Pilot. 
 Interior of Montreal. Dillon's Hotel. Parade. MTavish's 
 Monument. Convents. Franciscan Friars. Paul-Street. 
 Notre Dame Street. View of Montreal. Theatre. Public 
 Amusements. Hospitality. Ship-building. Advice to Gen- 
 tlemen respecting European Servants. Useful Hints. Mar- 
 kets. Turnpike Road. Visit to La Chine. Indian De- 
 partment. Visit to the Indians at Cachenonaga. Indian 
 Doll. Chevalier Lorimier. Distressing Event. Providen- 
 tial Deliverance. Adventures of Captain John. His 
 Daughter. Love and Revenge. Roman Catholic Funerals. 
 Leave Montreal . - - - 53 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 Journey to New York. Leave Montreal. La Prairie. St. 
 John's. Independent Whig. Fellow Travellers. Sloop 
 Dolphin. David Crossing the Line. Merman seen in the 
 Richlieu River. English Negotiators. Isle au Noix. An- 
 ecdote of a Soldier. Cumberland Head. Canoe upset. 
 Ducking. Shelburne Bay. American Hospitality. Lake 
 Champlain. Crown Point. Accident. Floating Ice. Old 
 Ti, or Ticonderoga. Gale of Wind. Wood Creek. Run the 
 Vessel Ashore. Excursion through the Woods. Whitehall 
 Capture of General Burgoyne. Account of Saratoga. Ame- 
 rican Stage Waggon - - - - 95 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 
 Leave Skenesborough. American Taverns. Hire another 
 Waggon. Dine at Salern. Captain White. Humorous 
 Waggoner. Turnpikes, a profitable Speculation. Travel- 
 ling by Night. Lansinburgh. Troy. Newspapers. Fe- 
 deralists and Democrats. Stage-coach. Steam-boat. City 
 of Albany j its improved State. Gregory's Hotel. Mode of 
 Living at Taverns. Town of Hudson. Experiment, Sloop, a 
 new Packet Vessel. The Hudson River. Beautiful Scenery. 
 Theological Dispute. Entertainment on board the Sloop. 
 Major Andre. West Point. Arrival at New York. Ap- 
 pearance of the City at Night. - page 121 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 Boarding House. Evacuation of New York celebrated on 25th 
 Novemher. The Harbour. The Broadway. Bowery Road. 
 Shops. Hotels. Public Buildings. The Park. Caterpil- 
 lars. The Theatre. Mr. Coopers Performances. Richard 
 the Third. Annotations on Shakspeare. Vauxhall. Rane- 
 lagh. Wharves. Warehouses. Shipping. State of New 
 York before the Embargo. Bustle and Activity which pre- 
 vailed. Melancholy Effects of the Embargo. Annihilation 
 of Commerce - - - - 143 
 
 CHAP. XXIX. 
 
 Places of Worship. Public Buildings. State Prison. Courts 
 of Law. Board of Health. Quarantine Station. Chamber 
 of Commerce. Inspectors of Lumber, &c. Commerce of 
 New York. Increase of Commerce. Market Places. Abun- 
 dance of Provisions. Articles brought to Market. Fly 
 Market. Bare Market. Price of Commodities at New 
 York. Charitable Institutions. The Ladies' Society for the 
 Relief of poor Widows, with small Children. The Cincin - 
 
VI CONTENT^ 
 
 nati. Medical Society. Protestant Episcopal Society. Co- 
 lumbia College. Newspapers. Literary Fair page 159 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Number of Deaths at New York. Mode of living in America. 
 The Yellow Fever. Population of New York. Deaths. 
 Church Yards. Funerals. Society of New York. Elegant 
 Women. French and English Dresses. Fine Figures. De- 
 licate Complexions. Bad Teeth, a groundless Charge. Edu- 
 cation. Thirst after Knowledge. Arts and Sciences. Li- 
 terature. Taste for Reading. Salmagundi. The Echo. 
 Barlow's Columbiad. Smoking. Style of Living at New 
 York. Splendid Marriages. Great Fortunes. Anecdote of 
 a Sailor. Quakers Meeting. Quakers. Anecdote of a 
 Jew. Singing Schools - - Page 186 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 Christmas Day. Recommendation of the Clergy. New Year's 
 Day, Political Parties. Duels. General Hamilton. 
 Colonel Burr. Satire upon Duels. Ancient Chivalry. 
 Donna Fiddleosa. Duels by Twilight. Courageous Youths. 
 Bullecs through their Hats and Coats. New Mode of Duel- 
 ling. The New York Barber. Anecdote of Emperor 
 Huggins. Humorous Barbers. Mr. Jefferson's Advice to 
 Huggins „__---- 214 
 
 CHAP. XXXII. 
 
 Essays from Salmagundi. Strangers at New York. Mus- 
 tapha Rubadud Keli Khan. His Letter to Assem Hacchem. 
 Women at New York. Tripolitan's Reception by the 
 Americans. His Opinions upon their Form of Government. 
 Fashions of New York. Rivalry between Mrs. Toole and 
 Madame Bouchard. Ladies' Dress. On Style. Style of 
 an English Citizen— of a Nobleman — of a Chinese. Bell- 
 
s CONTENTS. VI 
 
 brazen, the Favorite of the Emperor Dessalines. Th« 
 Fashionable Vulgar. The Giblets. Fashionable Life. The 
 Perfection of Style. Mustapha's Description of an Election. 
 Election Orators. Sovereign People. Beer Barrels. Ghost 
 of Washington. French Inconnus. Stranger at Home, or 
 Tour in Broadway. Moore's Poems. New York Assem- 
 bly Page 232 
 
 CHAP. XXXIII. 
 
 Tom Straddle. A Brummagem Hero. His Voyage to Ame- 
 rica. Arrival at New York. Attempts at Notoriety. Stylish 
 Living, A Man of Ton. Profound Dissertations. Straddle's 
 Unfortunate End. Plans for Defending New York Harbour. 
 The Torpedo. Calamities of War. # An Experiment to 
 Destroy the English Navy. Anecdote of a Chinese. New 
 Plans. Jeremy Cockloft. Archimede's Burning Glasses. 
 Style at Ballston. Citizens' Ladies. A Carolinian Buck. 
 Mode of Living. Squabbles. Drinking the Waters. Amuse- 
 ments - - - " 293 
 
 CHAP. XXXIV. 
 
 Winter at New York. Stealing Hats, a fashionable Larceny. 
 Hermaphrodite Dress. Fine Figures. Slender Waists. 
 An American Blood. Tea, a Poem. Letter to Assem Hac- 
 chem. Pacific Government. Logocracy. Slangwhangers. 
 Tom Paine. American Abuse. Congress. Windy Nation. 
 Red Breeches. American Resentment - - 324 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Leave New York for Charleston. Take passage in the Cal- 
 liope. Fellow Passengers. The Irish Knife-grinder. Gun 
 Boats. Quarantine Ground. Sandy Hook. Gulf Stream. 
 Arrival at Charleston. Streets. Houses. Public Buildings. 
 
Vlii CONTENTS. 
 
 East Bay. . St. Michael's. The Branch Bank. Charleston 
 , Library. The Museum. Poisonous Tree. Pernicious Ef- 
 fects of the Pride of India. Turkey Buzzards. Dead Hor- 
 ses. The Golgotha. Negligence of the Municipality, 
 Public Buildings. The Orphan House. The Theatre. 
 Vauxhall. Anecdote of Mrs. S . Unfortunate Court- 
 ship. The Market-place. Productions. Price of Pro- 
 visions, &c. - Page 350 
 
 CHAP. XXXVI. 
 
 Population of Charleston. Society. The Planters. Extrava- 
 gance and Dissipation. Money Lenders. Long Credit. 
 Character of the People. Parade and Ostentation. Charles- 
 ton Races. Jockey Club. Race Course. Balls and Con- 
 certs. Amusements of the People. Rifle Shooting. Duel- 
 ling. Anecdote of Marshal Turenne. A Bloodless Duel 
 Sullivan's Island. Outrages at Charleston. Riots among 
 the Sailors. Consequences of the Embargo. American Sea- 
 men enter the British Service. - - - - 380 
 
 CHAP XXXVII. 
 
 Servants at Charleston. Slaves. Slave Trade. Slave Mer- 
 chants. The Bargain Buyer. Observations upon the Slave 
 Trade. The Treatment of Africans. Refined Cruelty. 
 People of Colour and Mulattoes. Negro Characteristics. 
 Religious Fanaticism. Methodist Preachers pelted in their 
 Pulpits. Manners of the Negroes. An Anecdote of a 
 Negro and his Wife. Their Intrepid Death. Religion. 
 Service of the Episcopal Churches in the United States. 
 Methodist Meetings. Marriages. Funerals. Novelty of 
 an Undertaker's Profession in Charleston. Charitable So" 
 cieties. Free Masons - 403 
 
CONTENTS. IX 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 legislature of South Carolina. City of Colombia. Revenue. 
 Expenses of the City of Charleston. Taxes. Court of LawsT 
 Curious Trial. Portraits of Washington and Hamilton more 
 saleable than those of Jefferson. Review on Charleston 
 Race Ground. Militia of South Carolina. Volunteer Corps 
 of Charleston. Field Day. Military Force of the United 
 States badly disciplined. Satire upon American Discipline. 
 A Militia Muster. - - 423 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 
 Arts, Sciences, and Literature of South Carolina. Newspapers. 
 Incomes of the Planters. Houses. Husbandry of South 
 Carolina. Productions of the Soil. Rice. Indigo. Cotton. 
 Tobacco. Maize. Hemp. Implements of Husbandry. 
 Waggons. Sledges. Grasses. Pasture Lands. Manu- 
 factures. Iron Foundries. Gunpowder. Grist Mills. 
 Manufactories of Cordage. Commerce of South Carolina. 
 Neutral Trade. Conduct of the Belligerents. Exports from 
 Charleston - - - - - - - 442 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Climate of South Carolina. Musquitos. Dreadful Whirlwind. 
 Tremendous Cloud. Trees torn up. Plantations destroyed. 
 Storms of Hail. Immense Hailstones. Remarkable Sleet. 
 Sudden changes of Weather. State of the Weather in 
 Charleston for 1 8O7. Stranger's Fever. Mountains covered 
 with Snow. Vicissitudes of Climate. Diseases. Typhus 
 icterodes, or Yellow Fever. Dr. Johnson's Medical Oration. 
 Progress of the Weather. Sickness and Deaths at Charleston 
 in 1807. Distressing drought. The Comet/ Lunar In- 
 fluences. Tides. Thermometer. Vaccination. Dysentry. 
 Influenza. Yellow Fever. Obituary from the Bills of 
 Mortality in Charleston during five Years - - 463 
 
Directions to the Binder for placing the 
 Engravings. 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
 A Map of North America, to face the title page. 
 View of Cape Diamond and part of the Lower Town 
 
 of Quebec - Page V) 
 Prescot Gate and Bishop's Palace at the top of Moun- 
 tain Street - - - - - 2( 
 Chart of the Basin of Quebec, &c. - - - 42 
 Seminary Boy ; and a Gentleman in his Winter Dress 6\ 
 French Habitant or Countrymen - - - *& 
 Habi tans in their Summer Dress - - - W 
 Canadian Cariole - - ■ 1 7 i 
 Cape Diamond from Wolfe's Cove - - 24* 
 An Officer of the British Army and a Merchant of 
 
 Quebec in Winter - - - 3H 
 
 French Canadian Lady and Priest - - 34 
 
 Indian and his Squaw . - - - - 3 ^ ! 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 Town of Tfcree Rivers, to face - - page 2 
 
 Town of Sorel - - - 5; 
 
 Place d'Armes, Montreal - - 6 
 
 Notre Dane Street, Montreal - -7 
 
 View of General Burgoyne's Encampment at Saratoga 11: 
 
 VOL. III. 
 
 Blymouth, Massachusetts to face - page - 13 
 
TRAVELS, 
 
 CHAPTER XXIII. 
 
 Leave Quebec — Mode of Travelling — Steam $oal 
 — Schooners — Voyage to Three Rivers—Beau- 
 tiful Scenes — Eel Traps-*— Spearing Fish by 
 Torch Light — Second Journey to Three Rivers 
 by Land-~~Pass the River at Cape Rouge — 
 Arrive at Jacques Cartiei — Rapid Torrent — 
 New Bridge — Post House — Monsieur Garnoux 
 the Blacksmith — Deschambault — Seigniory of 
 Grondines — St. Anne — Charles Lanaudiere 
 Esq., Grand Voyer of the Province — Batis- 
 can — Iron Works—- Champlain — Rivulets- 
 Bridges — Canadian Farms — Roman Catholic 
 Crosses — Post House at Cape Madelaine — 
 Arrival at Three Rivers. 
 
 JMy first excursion to Three Rivers was by 
 Water ; a mode of travelling not always very 
 agreeable, when ascending the river. The nu- 
 merous rap ids, and strong currents, which coui- 
 
 VOL. II. B 
 
8 
 
 SCHOONERS. 
 
 mcnce at the Richlieu, about 45 miles above 
 Quebec, render the voyage extremely tedious, un- 
 less you are favoured with a strong easterly wind. 
 It was about the middle of August, 1807, when 
 we left Quebec for Three Rivers, where my un- 
 cle's family were to reside, until the house on the 
 farm at Becancour was fitted up for their recep- 
 tion. As we had a considerable quautity of ma- 
 chinery, agricultural implements, &c. to remove, 
 Mr. Campbell chartered one of the schooners, 
 which sail regularly between Quebec and Mont- 
 real. These vessels range from 30 to 100 tons, 
 and being merely adapted for burthen, afford 
 very poor accommodation for passengers. Few 
 of the inhabitants, indeed, ever take their passage 
 in them, except upon the voyage down the river 
 from Montreal to Quebec, which is generally ac- 
 complished in two days ; and even with contrary 
 winds is seldom more than four or five days. 
 The people are obliged to take provisions with 
 them, and go on shore at night to sleep at a farm 
 house, unless they take a mattress with them ; 
 for the cabin, which is extremely small, contains 
 no other bed than the master's. The Frenchmen 
 who command these vessels, are also not very nice 
 in their manner of living, and the cabin is conse- 
 quently always in a filthy condition. The pas- 
 sage money is a dollar from Quebec to Three 
 Rivers, and two dollars to Montreal, cheap 
 enough if the accommodations were more decent. 
 
STEAM BOAT. S 
 
 I should think a steam boat similar to that which 
 runs on the north river, between Albany and 
 New York, only on a smaller scale, would answer 
 extremely well on the river St. Lawrence, where, 
 without a fair wind, vessels are often upwards of a 
 month getting up to Montreal, a distance of only 
 180 miles from Quebec. It might be made for 
 the purpose of carrying merchandize as well as 
 passengers. The American steam boat frequently 
 goes a distance of 160 miles, against wind and 
 tide, in less than two days. It runs between AU 
 bany and New York regularly twice a week. 
 
 Having put our goods on board the schoo- 
 ner, and a fair wind coming from the north-east, 
 we all embarked, in the expectation of reaching 
 Three Rivers the next day ; but before we got to 
 Point au Tremble, about 20 miles from Quebec, 
 the wind suddenly shifted to the south-west and 
 obliged us to anchor. My uncle and the rest of 
 the family, except myself, quitted the vessel, and 
 proceeded to Three Rivers by land, leaving me in 
 charge of the property on board. Fortunately 
 I was well provided with plenty of provisions 
 and a comfortable bed : the master of the vessel 
 was also one of the better sort, of that description 
 of people, otherwise my situation would have 
 been by no means enviable; for it was upwards 
 of sixteen days after their departure before I 
 reached Three Rivers, and was then obliged to 
 leave the vessel within a few miles of the town. 
 b2 
 
4 BEAUTIFUL SCENES. 
 
 there not being wind enough for her to stem the 
 current. She arrived about five days afterwards, 
 having been rather more than three weeks on her 
 passage of 90 miles, which with a fair wind is 
 often made in less than a day and a half. 
 
 The river St. Lawrence, all the way up on 
 both sides, affords a variety of the most beautiful 
 prospects. As far as the rapids of Richlieu, the 
 shores are steep, rugged, and lofty ; in some 
 places projecting into the river in the form of 
 small capes and promontories ; and in others, re- 
 ceding into innumerable coves and bays, which 
 in many parts expand the river to a considerable 
 breadth. The banks are covered with trees and 
 shrubs of various kinds, except in a few places, 
 where the black lime slate, or lime stone rock, 
 shivers in thin pieces or moulders into dust. On 
 the summit of the shores, the white farm houses,, 
 and neat churches, placed at almost regular dis- 
 tances, appear at intervals between clumps of 
 trees and rich meadows. In other parts the 
 shores are seen sloping into cultivated valleys 
 covered with a beautiful rich verdure, and adorn- 
 ed with small neat villages, in which the church, 
 the houses of the cure and the seignior, are gene- 
 rally the most conspicuous. Thick umbrageous 
 forests, and distant mountains whose summits 
 mingle with the clouds, complete the charming 
 scenery, which is viewed to great advantage dur- 
 ing a voyage up the river, and which presents to 
 
JOURNEY TO THREE RIVERS BY LAND. 5 
 
 -the eye, a succession of the most beautiful land- 
 scapes. 
 
 In several places along shore, the Canadians 
 place hurdles, just beyond low water mark, for 
 the purpose of catching eels, &c. a number of bas- 
 kets, or traps, are placed between the hurdles, 
 which are covered at high water, and as the tide 
 ebbs down, the eels and other fish, bury themselves 
 therein, and are easily taken. Another curious 
 mode of fishing is also practised by the Canadians 
 and Indians; they go in their canoes on the 
 river at night, the darker the better, for the pur- 
 pose of spearing salmon and the larger species of 
 fish, by torch light. They can see the fish to a 
 considerable depth, and are extremely expert at 
 spearing them. They are very fond of this sport, 
 and pursue it with much avidity. 
 
 About a month after, I had occasion to go to 
 Quebec, and on my return again to Three Rivers, 
 I travelled by land. It was then the latter end 
 of October, and the road, for the first stage out of 
 Quebec, was extremely bad. The journey by 
 land would be more pleasant if performed in com- 
 fortable vehicles ; but the Canadian post ca- 
 lashes, are very ill adapted for a long journey: 
 they afford neither shelter from the pouring rain, 
 the scorching beams of the sun, nor the heavy 
 dews of the night. The driver also, by sitting in 
 front, presses it down, and renders the traveller's 
 eat very uneasy ; and at every nine or tea miles 
 
6 ARRIVAL AT JACQUES CAHTIER. 
 
 be has to step into a fresh vehicle. The post- 
 houses are regulated by an act of tbe provincial 
 parliament, which enjoins tbe proprietors to keep 
 a certain number of horses, calashes, and carioles, 
 ready at all hours of the day and night for the 
 accommodation of travellers, and in general, very 
 little delay is occasioned. The price of travelling 
 is also regulated by the act, and a paper, con- 
 taining the sum to be paid from stage to stage, is 
 stuck up in every post house. It cost me from 
 Quebec to Three Rivers, including provisions 
 which I took with me, about ten dollars, or forty 
 five shillings sterling for 90 miles. The regu- 
 lated price is one shilling currency per league : 
 but the stage into and out of town, is charged 
 two or three shillings per league, on account of 
 the greater expense of keeping the horses, than 
 in the country. There is no post established on 
 tbe left bank of the river. 
 
 I left Quebec about noon, and at the end of 
 the first stage of three leagues, passed the river 
 of Cape Rouge in a kind of scow or flat bottomed 
 boat, secured to a rope stretched across the river. 
 At this ferry or traverse, fourpence is charged for 
 passing with the horse and calash. From 
 thence we proceeded to the post-house about a 
 hundred yards further, where I got into another 
 calash. I had no occasion to cross any more 
 rivers till we arrived at Jacques Cartier, about 
 36 miles from Quebec. This river, which derives 
 
ARRIVAL AT JACQUES CARTIER. 7 
 
 its name from the navigator who first explored the 
 river St. Lawrence, is frequently very dangerous 
 to cross,, on account of the extreme rapidity of 
 the current, occasioned by the broken rocky bed 
 over which the waters precipitate themselves into 
 the St. Lav rence. 
 
 It was dark when I arrived, and I was obliged 
 to alight from the calash, and walk down a steep, 
 winding road, to the river, which runs through a 
 narrow valley, inclosed on both sides by lofty 
 heights. The canoe was conducted by one man, 
 who held on by a rope stretched across the river, 
 and secured to posts ; and such was the impetu- 
 osity of the current, that his strength was barely 
 sufficient to prevent <he canoe from being carried 
 away by the stream. A considerable way up the 
 river a handsome bridge has been erected within 
 these few years; but the distance is too great 
 from the post-road for travellers to pass over it, 
 except in the spring or fall of the year, when 
 the ferry is at times impassable, without great 
 danger- 
 On arriving at the other side, I proceeded up 
 the hill with the calash-driver, who carried my 
 portmanteau to the post-house. Here I found 
 the family at supper ; but, I was told, they could 
 not afford me any accommodation for the night. 
 It being extremely dark, I w T as not much in- 
 clined to travel any further, and therefore 
 inquired if I could get a bed in the neigh- 
 
8 MONSIEUR GARNOUX. 
 
 bourhood; this, however, I found could not be 
 procured nearer than three miles, at Cape Sante, 
 where a blacksmith, of the name of Garnoux, 
 keeps a house, for the accommodation of travel- 
 lers: upon this, I got into a calash; and, in 
 about half an hour, was set down at Monsieur 
 Garnoux's. The house is small, but every thing 
 is neat and clean; a very uncommon circum- 
 stance in the post-houses. Monsieur Garnoux, 
 who, by the bye, is a very decent blacksmith, re- 
 ceived me very politely, and handed me out of 
 the calash into his best room. Though it was 
 Sunday night, he had not much in his larder. 
 Tea or coffee, and bread and butter, were all that 
 he could furnish. I had, however, a tolerable 
 good larder of my own, in a basket, and there- 
 fore did not feel the want of any thing but rest; 
 which, after supper, I procured, in a rery de- 
 cent bed. 
 
 At day-break, the calash from the post-house 
 was at the door: having breakfasted, and paid 
 four shillings for my entertainment, I took leave 
 of the blacksmith, and proceeded on my journey. 
 The accommodations at this house are the best on 
 the road, between Quebec and Three Rivers ; 
 and I would advise all travellers between those 
 towns, to take up their abode for the night at 
 Monsieur Garnoux's, in preference to any of the 
 post-houses. \l$ 
 
 After passing through the seigniory of Des- 
 
CHARLES LANAUDIERE, ESQ. 9 
 
 chambault, I came to Grondines, the poorest 
 seigniory in Lower Canada. The soil barely 
 covers an immense bed of stone, and can scarcely 
 supply the inhabitants with the necessaries of 
 life. Its present seignior is Mr. Moses Hart, of 
 Three Rivers, who possibly turns it to some ac- 
 count, in the making of pot-ash, &c. ; though he 
 told me, that he one year derived upwards of 80/. 
 for his loch et vents only. Its former proprietor 
 ruined himself by sanguine speculations in the 
 culture of corn, for which he went to a very 
 great expense, in the erection of mills, &c. 
 
 The next seigniory, called St. Anne's, is the 
 property of Charles Lanaudiere, Esq. Grand 
 Voyer of the province. In some parts it lies 
 very low, and, in the spring, is usually inundated, 
 which occasions the post-road to be situated far- 
 ther from the river, than it is in other seigniories 
 where it winds along the summits of the lofty 
 banks which overlook the river, or along the 
 borders of delightful valleys. Mr. Lanaudiere is 
 one of the most respectable French gentlemen in 
 the colony. He was an officer in the army of Ge- 
 neral Montcalm, and was wounded on the plains 
 of Abraham. He is now between seventy and 
 eighty years of age, yet possesses every faculty in 
 such admirable preservation, that he does not ap- 
 pear more than fifty ; and is more active and in- 
 telligent than many men at that age. He is sin- 
 cerely attached to the British government; and. 
 
10 SEIGNIORY OF BATISCAX. 
 
 in his conduct, bis manners, and Ills principles, 
 appears to be, in every respect, a complete Eng- 
 lishman. Many years ago, Mr. Lanaudicre vi- 
 sited England, where he lived in the first circles, 
 and is, of course, well known to several of the 
 Princes. On his return to Canada, he was ap- 
 pointed Grand Voyer of the Province. This 
 office requires him to make an annual circuit of 
 Lower Canada, to inspect the stale of the roads, 
 bridges, &c. in the several parishes. He has af 
 salary of 500/. per annum. There are also Grand 
 Voyers of Quebec, Montreal, and Three Rivers, 
 who superintend their respective districts, and 
 are subordinate to (he Grand Voyer of the Pro- 
 vince. Mr. Lanaudicre possesses the esteem of 
 his countrymen, and of every English gentleman 
 that arrives in the country, who always meets with 
 a hearty welcome at his house. 
 
 The next seigniory is Batiscan, where the 
 abundance of iron ore that was discovered, de- 
 termined several of its proprietors to establish an 
 iron-foundry and forge, upon similar principles 
 to those of Three Rivers. At present, I am told, 
 it is a losing concern, and two of the partners 
 have lately withdrawn their shares. It is to be 
 hoped, however, that they will succeed, as every 
 thing which tends to increase the manufactures 
 and commerce of a new country cannot fail to be 
 beneficial. 
 
 Champlain, which is situated next to Batis- 
 
\ SEIGNIOKY OF CIIAMPLAIN. 11 
 
 ran, is an extensive seigniory, being upwards of 
 eighteen miles in length, and of considerable 
 depth. Its soil consists of a sandy loam, in 
 many parts, of the colour of yellow ochre. Seve- 
 ral small springs are met with in different parts 
 of the seigniory ; they form little rivulets, which 
 run across the road into the riter. A few loose 
 logs of wood are thrown over them, by way of 
 bridges. These little streams are found more or 
 less along the road, from one end of the country 
 to the other, and with the ditches that are cut by 
 the farmers, between their respective grounds, are 
 always covered by loose logs, which shake the 
 calash very much in passing over them, and 
 would break the springs, were they constructed 
 of steel, instead of leather. 
 
 The farms situate along the roads in Lower 
 Canada are generally cleared of trees for about 
 a mile back. They are seldom more than two or 
 three acres in breadth, but run back into the 
 woods to more than ninety or a hundred acres. 
 The Canadians suffer few trees to remain near 
 their houses, on account of the musquitoes : this, 
 with the wooden railings and fences, have rather 
 a naked appearance, compared with the hedges 
 and rows of trees planted along the roads in 
 England. There is, however, upon the whole, 
 a neatness in the cultivated parts of Canada, that 
 is seldom met with in the United States, except in 
 very old settlements. This neatness is occasioned 
 
12 ROMAN CATHOLIC CROSSES. 
 
 by clearing the land of the stumps of trees, and 
 fencing in their farms with more regularity than 
 is the practice in the States, where the slovenly 
 zig-zag, or worm fence, is very prevalent. The 
 Americans, however, have the advantage in the 
 appearance of their houses, and other buildings. 
 By the road side, a few crosses still remain up 
 to attract the attention of the traveller, who for- 
 merly, if he was a pious Catholic, would kneel 
 down, and utter a short prayer, or pull off his hat 
 with the greatest reverence; but, at present, the 
 number of crosses is greatly diminished, and the 
 few that remain are but little noticed. They are 
 commonly about twenty or thirty feet higb, and 
 adorned with all the instruments which the Jews 
 are supposed to have employed in the crucifixion 
 of our Saviour, viz. the hammer, nails, pincers, 
 a flask of vinegar, sponge, ladder, and the spear 
 with which the soldier pierced his side. The 
 crown of thorns is placed in the centre of the 
 cross, and the cock which crowed when Peter de- 
 nied our Saviour, is always placed at the top. 
 Some of these crosses are railed in; and pass- 
 ing through St. Augustine on the Sunday I left 
 Quebec, I saw several of the Canadian men and 
 women kneeling and praying, apparently with 
 great devotion, till the sound of the calash, pas- 
 sing, drew their attention to a more irreverent 
 object. One of the men who drove the calash that 
 day, always crossed himself whenever we passed 
 
CAPE MADELAINE POST-HOUSE. 13 
 
 any of those holy mementos ; the others never 
 took any notice of them. 
 
 On ray arrival at the post-house of Cape Ma- 
 delaine, in Champlain, I ernharked in a canoe for 
 Three Rivers, that passage being generally pre- 
 ferred to the ferry, which is situated a few miles 
 up the St. Maurice river. It took us nearly an 
 hour to reach the town, as we had to pass outside 
 of two islands, seated at the entrance of the St. 
 Maurice. This river, in disemboguing itself 
 into the St. Lawrence, is divided into three 
 channels by these two islands, from which cir- 
 cumstance it was denominated Three Rivers, and 
 gave name to the town which is built at the con- 
 fluence of the St. Lawrence, and one of the 
 channels. 
 
14 TOWN OF THREE RIVERS. 
 
 CHAPTER XXIV. 
 
 Town of Three Rivers — Houses — Streets — Mus- 
 quiloes — Fleas — Baron La Ronton — Public 
 Buildings — Fire at the Convent — Intrepidity of 
 a Soldier — Escape of a Nun with an Emigrant 
 Priest — Xcw Convent — Visit to the Nuns of 
 St. Ursule — Abbe de Calonne, Cure of the 
 Convent — Portrait of the Grand Vicar — Ad- 
 vice to Clergymen — Setting Watches during the 
 Litany—Monastery — Billiard Room Cana- 
 dian Fencibles — Deserters — Death of a Conor 
 dian — The Irish Landlady — Anecdote of Colo- 
 nel T . — Cure of a Locked Jaw — Trade of 
 
 Three Rivers — Storekeepers — Visit to the 
 Forges of St. Maurice — Iron Works— Brick- 
 maker — Society — Party Spirit — The Election 
 of Mr. Ezekiel Hart — Amusements — Scuffle in 
 the Market Place — Swelled Necks— Mad Girl 
 — Foundlings. 
 
 The town of Three Rivers is situate on a 
 light, sandy soil. One part, towards the St. 
 Maurice river, is considerably elevated, and com- 
 mands a beautiful and extensive prospect of the 
 St. Lawrence, and opposite shore. The other 
 part of the town lies nearly on a level with the 
 
TOWN OF THREE RIVERS— HOUSES. 13 
 
 water. The shore is, notwithstanding, hold and 
 steep, and slopes off abruptly into eighteen or 
 twenty feet water, capable of admitting large 
 vessels to lay close along-side; and, with the 
 help of a couple of spars, placed from the shore 
 upon the deck of the vessel, to land their goods, 
 and put them immediately into carts, which are 
 backed over the spars, as far as they can go, and 
 receive them with great facility. This natural 
 wharf is very convenient, and occasions little or 
 no expense to the merchants. 
 
 Three Rivers is very small, compared with 
 Montreal and Quebec; but in size Franks as the 
 third town in Lower Canada. It is, however, 
 scarcely larger thaosome English villages. I was 
 never able to ascertain the exact number of houses 
 and inhabitants; but the former, I believe, do 
 not exceed 250, nor the latter 1500. There are 
 very few respectable looking houses in the place; 
 the rest are paltry wooden houses, containing a 
 few rooms on the ground floor, and a garret 
 above. Some of them are in better condition 
 than others ; but, for the most part, they appear 
 to be falling to decay, from neglect. It is Yery 
 seldom that the houses in Canada have any paint 
 bestowed upon them; but they are often white- 
 washed: yet few in Three Rivers have even this 
 decoration to recommend them. 
 
 The houses are mostly built with small inter- 
 vals between them ; apparently to prevent acci- 
 
16 BARON LA HONTAN. 
 
 dents from fire. The streets are narrow, and un- 
 paved, and on a dry windy day, the sand and 
 dust fly about in clouds. The foot-paths are 
 badly kept up, by pieces of timber placed about 
 three ^cet from the houses. Notwithstanding the 
 inconveniences of the arid soil of Three Rivers, 
 it has its advantages, inasmuch, as you may 
 walk out immediately after the heaviest rain, 
 without soiling your shoes. 
 
 The woods being almost close at the back of 
 the town, favour the retreat of innumerable 
 musquitoes and sand-Jlies. These With the mul- 
 titude of cogimon flies which inhabit the town, 
 are extremely troublesome in sultry weather. I 
 was never particularly annoyed by any other in- 
 sect ; though, if any credit is due to the testi- 
 mony of Baron la Hontan, Three Rivers must 
 formerly have abounded with fleas. In his Tra- 
 vels, he says, (C A man that would live there, 
 must be of the like temper with a dog; or, at 
 least, he must take pleasure in scratching his 
 skin, for the fleas are there more numerous than 
 the grains of sand. " This assertion of the Baron, 
 I have, fortunately, never realized, and as I am 
 not inclined to dispute his word, I will give all 
 the merit to my fair countrywomen, who, since 
 their settlement in the town, have, no doubt, by 
 their cleanly habits, expelled every thing that 
 was before noxious and dirty. 
 
 The public buildings of Three Rivers, are the 
 
FIRE AT THE CONVENT. 
 
 17 
 
 convent of St. Ursule, the Roman Catholic 
 church, the barracks, and the old monastery of 
 the Recollets, or Franciscan friars ; which latter 
 is now converted into a gaol, a court of justice, 
 offices for the sheriff and prothonotary, a billiard- 
 room, and an episcopalian chapel ! 
 
 The convent of St. Ursule was founded in 
 1677, by M. de St. Valier, bishop of Quebec, 
 for the education of female children, and as an 
 asylum for the poor, the sick, and those who 
 were tired of the world. The number of nuns, 
 at present, does not amount to more than twenty; 
 they are, for the most part, elderly women, and 
 are governed by a superior. This nunnery was 
 burnt down, for the second time, in 1806, and 
 is not yet completely rebuilt. It is said, that a 
 nun set it on fire, in order to effect her escape 
 with a man belonging to the town, to whom she 
 was attached; at all events, it appears suspi- 
 cious that the fire should have originated in the 
 belfry : the only possible means of it, was from 
 the friction of the wheel setting the bell-rope on 
 fire. The nun who is suspected, had to ring the 
 bell that evening; she said, that the moment she 
 attempted to pull the rope, it broke, and the 
 flames burst out above her. The Canadian fen- 
 cibles, who were then quartered in the town, 
 were very active in saving the nuns, and the pro- 
 perty belonging to the convent. An old nun, 
 who had been confined many years to her apart- 
 
 VQL. II. c 
 
]§ HUE AT THE CONVENT. 
 
 merit, was with difficulty rescued from the de- 
 vouring element. She refused to leave the place, 
 in spite of every in treaty; a soldier, however, took 
 her up in his arms, and was just making his way 
 out of the window, upon a ladder which was 
 placed against it, when a young nun ran up to 
 him, crying, "Ah, raon Dieu sauvez moi aussi — 
 sauvez moi aussi. " ( [tgjfim i|/' says the soldieiv 
 " why didn't you come before : here I have been 
 obliged to force this old woman away, in order 
 to save her, when I would rather have carried 
 you in my arms ; but, come along, I'll try what 
 I can do for you." Upon which, the brave 
 fellow took the young one upon his back, and the 
 old one under his arm, and had contrived to get 
 half way down, when unfortunately the ladder 
 broke, and all three tumbled to the ground : they, 
 however, luckily escaped, with only a few bruises. 
 
 In consequence of the lire, the nuns were dis- 
 tributed in the convents of Quebec and Mont- 
 real; and subscriptions were set on foot through- 
 out the country, for the purpose of building a 
 new one. The funds of the Ursulines were very 
 poor, and the British inhabitants, much to their 
 honour, contributed, in common with the French 
 people, in aid of the institution; a convincing 
 proof of the unanimity of Catholics and Pro- 
 testants in that country. 
 
 A few years ago, an emigrant priest, who offi- 
 emted as minister to the convent, and who is 
 
VISIT TO THE URSU LINES. 19 
 
 mentioned by Mr. Weld in his Travels, as so ami- 
 able a man, ran away with one of the young 
 nuns, the daughter of a very respectable French 
 gentleman. The priest took her to New York, 
 where, as soon as he was satiated with her com- 
 pany, he left her, and went to France. She was 
 reduced to great distress, and wrote to her father 
 to intercede with the bishop, to allow her to re- 
 turn to the convent. I understand the bishop re- 
 fused her request ; and that she yet remains at 
 New York. It was her sister, I am told, who 
 interested Mr. Weld so much in her favour, bjr 
 the melancholy which seemed to prey upon her 
 lovely countenance. She died a few months af- 
 ter his visit, of a broken heart, having entered 
 the convent in consequence of a disappointment 
 in love. 
 
 The new convent was opened early in 1808, 
 for the reception of the nuns, though then not 
 more than half finished. In the August follow- 
 ing, after my return from the States, I visited it, 
 in company with Mr. Gugy the sheriff, and some 
 other gentlemen ; having first obtained permis- 
 sion from the Grand Vicar. The superior re- 
 ceived us at the second door, with great polite- 
 ness ; her dress was the same as the nuns, which 
 consists of a coarse black stuff gown, made ex- 
 tremely plain, and long waisted : above this is 
 a white linen head-piece, which conceals all the 
 hair, and covers the forehead alraoit to the eye- 
 
 c 2 
 
SO VISIT TO THE URSULINES. 
 
 brows ; over that,, a long black veil is thrown 
 back. The white linen cloth comes down on 
 each side the face, close round the chin, and 
 covers all the neck and bosom. It is remarkably 
 white and smooth, and shews a pretty face to ad- 
 vantage: but in what will not a pretty face look 
 well ? The nuns of St. Ursule, however, whom 
 I had the pleasure of seeing, had passed their 
 grand climacteric, and of course were not well 
 qualified to appear to advantage in such a dress, 
 the superior excepted, who was really a fine » 
 handsome woman, and must have been a beauti- 
 ful girl : she appeared to be about forty years of 
 age, and had presided several years over the con- 
 vent. 
 
 She took us through all the apartments, except 
 such as were occupied by those nuns, who did 
 not wish to be seen. In consequence of the 
 building being in an unfinished state, the nuns' 
 beds were placed in two or three large rooms, un- 
 til their respective apartments were completed. 
 The house is very long, and built in the form of 
 a cross : the chapel, for the performance of mass, 
 is in the centre on the ground-floor ; together with 
 the refectory ; the hall, and kitchen ; the rooms 
 for educating the children ; and the apartments of 
 the cure, or minister, who resides in the convent, 
 and performs the religious duties of the house 
 and chapel. The present resident is the Abbe 
 de Calonne, brother to the celebrated prime mi- 
 
ABBE DE CAL05JNE. 21 
 
 • 
 
 nister of Louis XVI. He was allowed by the 
 English government to retire to Canada, and ar- 
 rived in the autumn of 1807, He is said to be 
 a very amiable and accomplished man, and ap- 
 pears about sixty years of age. 
 
 The superior conducted us into the study of 
 the Abbe de Calonne, but he was absent. He 
 possesses a tolerable good library, in which I ob- 
 served several English books, particularly Blair's 
 Sermons. Two or three fine cabinet pictures, 
 were hung up in his apartment; and, together 
 with the books, appeared to be the remnants of 
 his former greatness. We afterwards proceeded 
 upstairs, and were introduced to two or three 
 old nuns, and as many novices, who were busily 
 engaged with their needles; they all rose up en 
 our entrance, and would not be seated while we 
 remained. The novices were dressed like the 
 other nuns, except that they wore a white, in- 
 stead of a black veil. They appeared to be 
 strapping country wenches, about thirty years of 
 age ; and apparently better qualified to increase 
 the population of the country, than 10 w; 
 their lives in celibacy. However, " Ghacun a c 
 gout, dans ce monde," and as long as they de- 
 their time to the care of the sick, tnci the ti\ ■;;- 
 cation of youth, they are not useie»» me^ 
 society. The noviciate lasts for two years 
 which, if they are still inclined to entfc£ the 
 
22 PORTRAIT OF THE GRAND VICAR. 
 
 order, they receive the black veil with great cere- 
 mony, and are immured for life. 
 
 A naval gentleman who happened to be of our 
 party, hearing that there was an Englishwoman 
 among the nuns,, was desirous, of seeing her; 
 upon which, one of them stepped forward, and 
 spoke to him. This lady was a widow about 
 forty ; and had formerly been a lively dashing wo- 
 man ; but, being tired of the world, she renounced 
 her religion and entered the convent. Her mo- 
 ther, Mrs. A — — , of Three Rivers, who keeps 
 the only English tavern in the town, was very 
 much enraged, when she found that her daugh- 
 ter had entered the nunnery, and went to the 
 superior, to demand her back again ; but her 
 request being refused, the old lady was not spar- 
 ing of abuse, and lavished her inveetives upon 
 her daughter as well as the nuns. 
 
 We did not see more than ten or a dozen of the 
 nuns ; the rest either kept out of sight of 
 their own accord, or by the desire of the supe- 
 rior. Those we saw, were not calculated to in- 
 spire very tender sentiments, which made me 
 suspect that the others were more likely to create 
 impressions similar to those Mr. Weld expe- 
 rienced, when he visited the same convent twelve 
 years ago : possibly the conduct of one of the 
 nuns, since that period had caused the superior 
 to be more careful of throwing temptations in 
 
THE FRENCH CHUKCH, 
 
 33 
 
 the way of the younger branches of her family. 
 If those ladies, however, are debarred from the 
 sight of real flesh and blood, they are allowed 
 to feast their eyes upon the jolly figure, and 
 ruddy countenance of the grand vicar, whose 
 portrait is hung up in the great bed-room. 
 
 The charitable and humane offices, in which 
 the nuns employ the greatest portion of their time, 
 are highly praiseworthy, and reflect much credit 
 on those respectable women. We inquired for 
 *ome of their bark work, for which they have 
 been celebrated by former travellers; but they 
 informed us that their time was so much taken up 
 in furnishing their rooms, that they were obliged 
 to neglect it. Having seen all that was worthy 
 of notice, we took our leave of the ladies, ac- 
 companied to the door by the superior and two 
 or three nuns. 
 
 The French church, in which service is per- 
 formed by the grand vicar and his assistants, is 
 a plain stone building-, roofed with shingles 
 painted red, and ornamented with a small belfry 
 und ^pire, covered with sheets of tin. In the 
 interior is a handsome altar piece, adorned with 
 gilt ornaments, silver candlesticks, flagons, wax 
 tapers, crucifixes, &c. The church is generally 
 well attended, and in summer is often very 
 crowded ; during that season, a great many peo- 
 ple sit or kneel in the open air, close by the doors, 
 or under the windows of the church : they ap- 
 
24 THE ENGLISH CHURCH. 
 
 pear attentive to the service, which is sung loud 
 enough for them to hear without. Immediately 
 after mass is over, it is a frequent custom to sell 
 the seats in the church, by auction ; the crowd 
 of people assembled near the church door, bid- 
 ding for pews, or listening to the noise of the 
 encanteur, forms a curious contrast to the solemn 
 devotion that reigned on the same spot a few 
 minutes before. 
 
 The English church is very small, being part 
 of the chapel formerly occupied by the Fran- 
 ciscan friars, who resided in the adjoining build- 
 ing. The other part is appropriated to a court 
 of justice, and is divided from the place of wor- 
 ship by a slight partition. It is only of late years, 
 that an English minister has resided in the town; 
 and, from appearances, there indeed seems very 
 little occasion for him even now, was it not for 
 the purpose of marrying, christening, and bury- 
 ing. Service is performed only on Sunday morn- 
 ings, and there are not above a dozen of the 
 English inhabitants, who attend, even that, re- 
 gularly. If it was not for the officers, and sol- 
 diers of the Canadian fencibles, the clergyman 
 would have to preach almost to empty pews. 
 
 It is true, that the number of English people 
 is small, when compared with that of the French; 
 and of them, there are three or four families of 
 the Jewish persuasion; so that those who profess 
 the Protestant religion, certainly form but a very 
 
ADVICE TO CLERGYMEN. 23 
 
 small proportion of the inhabitants ; yet there 
 are more than enough to crowd the church: its 
 emptiness cannot, therefore, be ascribed to the 
 want of people to fill it, nor indeed is that the 
 alledged cause. The inhabitants of Three Rivers 
 are often agitated by jealousy, and party feuds ; 
 and those who fall out with the clergyman, keep 
 away from his church. A small society requires 
 a minister of a very conciliating disposition, one 
 who should rather endeavour to maintain peace 
 and friendship among his parishioners, than in- 
 volve himself in their disputes ; and if he has 
 a wife, she would be better employed in assist- 
 ing him in that friendly office, than in carrying 
 the gossiping tittle-tattle of her neighbours 
 from house to house. Wherever a minister is 
 beloved by his parishioners, he never has occa- 
 sion to complain of empty pews. 
 
 It is by no means creditable to the Protestant 
 religion in Three Rivers, to see the French 
 church overflowing, morning and afternoon, on 
 Sundays, and open every day in the week be- 
 sides ; while the English church, not a fourth of 
 the size, is shut up all the week, except for two 
 liours on Sunday morning, and then never half 
 filled. A clock is also very much wanted at the 
 English church, to prevent the practice of set- 
 ting watches, during the performance of divine 
 service; for no sooner do the bells of the French 
 church ring at twelve, and just as the clergyman 
 
25 CANADIAN FENCIBLES. 
 
 is reading the Litany, than out fly the watches, 
 in the very midst of f Good Lord deliver us/ or 
 * Spare us good Lord / so that the gentlemen are 
 at once employed in regulating the time, and 
 praying for the good of their souls ! 
 
 The recollet building is of stone, and much 
 dilapidated. Next to the church and court house, 
 are the offices of the protho notary, adjoining 
 which, on the ground floor, are the rooms that are 
 at present converted into a gaol. Above them 
 are the sheriff's office, and a subscription billiard- 
 room ; the table is very indifferent, but it is suffi- 
 cient to afford the gentlemen of the town a few 
 hours amusement. 
 
 The building now occupied by the soldiers of 
 the Canadian Fencibles for barracks, was for- 
 merly the residence of the French governor. It 
 is built of stone, and compared to the houses in 
 the town, is of considerable magnitude. It is 
 situated on the most elevated part of the town, 
 and has a court-yard in front, inclosed by a wall 
 and gates ; an old stone building near it, is turned 
 into a guard-house. On the right side of the 
 barracks is an excellent garden, and on the left is 
 a small lawn, where the soldiers arc drilled and 
 exercised. 
 
 The Canadian fencible regiment is commanded 
 by Colonel Shank, who resides at Three Rivers. 
 It was formerly raised in Scotland, and consisted 
 of a thousand men, but in consequence of some 
 
DESERTERS. 27 
 
 misunderstanding, the soldiers, who w«re all mar- 
 ried men with large families, refused to embark 
 for Canada ; upon which the regiment was dis* 
 banded, and the officers, together witli some of 
 the non-commissioned officers, were sent out to 
 Canada, to recruit in that country. They have 
 been out upwards of three years, and have pro- 
 cured about 500 men, the majority of whom are 
 French Canadians ; there are also many Ameri- 
 cans from the United States among them. Most 
 of the officers are Scotchmen, and were employed 
 in the American war ; for their services on that 
 occasion they had grants of land in the country. 
 Colonel Shank particularly distinguished himself 
 in some engagements during that contest. He 
 afterwards commanded the Queen's Rangers, and 
 received from government a large tract of land in 
 Upper Canada. The French Canadians make to- 
 lerable steady soldiers ; but the Europeans that arc 
 picked up in different parts of the country, are ge- 
 nerally a drunken dissolute set, and give the of- 
 ficers a great deal of trouble by their frequent de- 
 sertion. The province, of late years, has paid the 
 inhabitants 10 or 12/. for every deserter they ap- 
 prehend, and this has made the people very alert, 
 so that few now can escape out of the country. 
 In 1807 a Frenchman lost his life in attempting 
 to apprehend two deserters of the 49th regiment. 
 The soldiers had gone off with their muskets and 
 a supply of ammunition. As soon as it was known, 
 
28 DESERTERS. 
 
 a party of the militia of Three Rivers, was or- 
 dered out to intercept them. After some time 
 they were traced to a barn, in the neighbourhood 
 of Becancour ; the militia, amounting to thirty 
 or forty persons, surrounded the building, and 
 while two of them were endeavouring to force the 
 door open, one of the deserters inside, fired his 
 piece, and shot one of them through the body. 
 This frightened the rest of the party so much, 
 that, together with their commanding officer, 
 they took to their heels, and made their escape ; 
 being of opinion, that 'those who fight, and 
 run away, may live to fight another day.' The 
 deserters were taken a few days after by a party 
 of the Canadian fencibles, under Captain de 
 Haren, and were both hung at Three Rivers 
 for the murder. The sheriff with great difficulty 
 procured a man to hang them, for which he paid 
 him upwards of twenty guineas. 
 
 The remains of two redoubts, or fortifications, 
 thrown up by the English army in the Ameri- 
 can war, are still visible on the common, and 
 upon the hill at the back of the town. The latter 
 commands the whole of Three Rivers, and is 
 furnished with a well in the centre, for supplying 
 the soldiers with water. A large cross is erected 
 near the spot, adorned with the instruments used 
 at the crucifixion of our Saviour, and other 
 ornaments. From this redoubt, I drew the 
 
IRISH LANDLADY. 48 
 
 view of Three Rivers, which accompanies this 
 work. 
 
 There are several small taverns or public- 
 houses in Three Rivers, kept by French Cana- 
 dians ; but only one decent house for the accom- 
 modation of respectable travellers, and that, un- 
 fortunately, is kept by an old lady, who is more 
 foud of scolding her customers than obliging them. 
 Few gentlemen, who are strangers to her humour, 
 ever stop at her house without experiencing the 
 effects of her tongue. They enter the tavern in 
 an authoritative manner, expecting to find its 
 inhabitants as pliant and submissive as their bre- 
 thren in England ; instead of which, the old lady 
 either turns upon her heel, and disdains to notice 
 them ; or, sticking her arms a-kimbo, asks them 
 by what authority they give themselves such airs; 
 and often shews them to the door. As to the gen- 
 tlemen's servants, who frequently affect more than 
 their masters, she never hesitates to turn them out 
 of the house, if they refuse to put up with the 
 kitchen. 
 
 Colonel T , inspecting field officer of the 
 
 militia, in Canada, who had recently arrived from 
 England, met with a curious reception from the 
 old lad}% in passing through Three Rivers for 
 Montreal. He put up at her house for the even- 
 ing, and asked for rooms for his family and ser- 
 vants ; " There is one room, and here is another/' 
 says she ; a they are all you can have in my house, 
 
30 
 
 IRISH LANDLADY, 
 
 and if you don't like them you may go else- 
 where." fx Do you know who I am," says the 
 
 Colonel. " No," says Mrs. A > " nor do I 
 
 care a d — n who you are." " Then you must 
 know, madam, that I am Colonel T *-, in- 
 specting field officer, &c. &c." <c I don't care 
 who the devil you are/' rejoined the old lady; " I 
 have had colonels, generals, princes, and majors, 
 in my house, and don't care a fig for them more 
 than other people. There's the two rooms, if you 
 don't choose to put up with them, you may leave 
 the house." The Colonel thought it most pru- 
 dent to lower his tone a little, and make the best 
 he could of the old woman and her rooms, till the 
 next morning, when he set off for Montreal. 
 
 Mrs. A , nevertheless, has her good qualities, 
 
 for though she gives every one to understand, 
 that her terms are six shillings a day, eat or not 
 eat in her house; yet if they do not give them- 
 selves the airs of great people, she seldom charges 
 for more than what they actually receive. But 
 she is the complete Wapping landlady, swears 
 like a trooper, scolds from morning to night 
 when the whim takes her, and delights in what 
 she calls humbling the great folks. To those who 
 are unacquainted with her humour, it is rather 
 unpleasant putting up at her house. She, how- 
 ever, prides herself on having every thing neat, 
 clean, and well cooked ; and it being the only 
 
CURE OF A LOCKED JAW. 31 
 
 British tavern in the town, she does not fail to 
 take advantage of her customers. 
 
 This old lady is the mother of the nun whom I 
 mentioned had entered the convent after the 
 death of her husband, and abjured her religion. 
 She has also two sons, one of them is an apo- 
 thecary of some eminence at Montreal. Thisgen- 
 tlemau, I am told, has performed several cures, 
 which baffled the skill of the most eminent phy- 
 sicians of that city, particularly one, in the case of 
 a locked jaw. The physician who was called in 
 first, had bathed the patient in warm water, and 
 tried every experiment he could think of for four 
 days, without success ; the man had eat nothing, 
 and his life was despaired of. Application was 
 then made to Mr. A , who immediately pro- 
 ceeded upon a diametrically opposite plan to 
 that of the physician. He caused the patient to 
 be immersed in ice water, which, from its excess 
 of cold, strengthened the nerves, and in a short 
 time caused the jaws to separate enough to ena- 
 ble him to pour wine down his throat. , He con- 
 tinued to give him plenty of the best Madeira 
 wine that could be procured, for ten days, and 
 with the frequent immersions in cold water the 
 man was restored to perfect health. 
 
 There is only one private boarding house at 
 Three Rivers. It is kept by an English gentle- 
 woman, whose husband was formerly a respectable 
 merchant at Montreal. Her terras are reasonable. 
 
32 TRADE OF THREE RIVERS. 
 
 and some of the officers of the Canadian Regi- 
 ment board at her house, which is more convenient 
 for those who remain any time in the town, than 
 living at the Tavern. 
 
 The trade of Three Rivers is confined chiefly 
 to the supplying of the inhabitants of the town 
 and surrounding country, with European manu- 
 factured goods and West India produce. The 
 family of the Harts, who are Jews, carry on nearly 
 all the business that is transacted in the town. 
 There are four brothers, three of whom reside in 
 Three Rivers, and have separate stores. The 
 other, Alexander Hart, resides at Montreal. They 
 are said to be possessed of considerable property, 
 and besides the stores which they keep, deal 
 largely in furs, potash, &c. one of them is a ma- 
 nufacturer of pot and pearl ash, and a brewer of 
 ale and spruce beer. They purchase most of the 
 furs, brought down from the interior by a small 
 party of Indians, who pay an annual visit to 
 Three Rivers. This trade, which a century and 
 a half ago was the total support of the town, is 
 now greatly diminished. The agents of the 
 north-west company are scattered over every part 
 of the interior, and much money has been sunk in 
 order to monopolize the whole of the fur trade. 
 Bui a few of the Indians, from the back coun- 
 try, choose to bring their furs to the Harts, at 
 Three Rivers, and receive European goods and 
 money in exchange, very often to a considerable 
 
STORE-KEEPERS. * S3 
 
 amount. An Indian once gave Mr. E. Hart, 60 
 guineas for a clock, and five guineas for a brilliant 
 ring to decorate the finger of liis squaw. A 
 store-keeper of Three Rivers told me, that an 
 Indian one day asked him the price of a small 
 chest of gunpowder tea, which he had in his 
 store for sale ; but thinking it was only idle curi- 
 osity that made him ask, he told him, rather 
 roughly, to go about his business. Upon this 
 the Indian immediately went to another store, a 
 few doors further, and gave four or five guineas 
 for a little cannister of that fine tea, which he 
 carried away with him under his dirty blanket. 
 Many of the Indians, who are fond of dress, will 
 go to a great expense in the purchase of silver 
 ornaments, and superfine scarlet or blue cloth, 
 coloured silk, &c. with which they decorate 
 themselves in a costly manner. During their 
 stay, they encamp about a mile from the town, 
 and are generally in a state of intoxication the 
 whole time, so that when they return in the au- 
 tumn to their hunting grounds, they have most 
 commouly spent all their money. They are then 
 obliged to go in debt to the Harts, sometimes to the 
 amount of several hundred dollars, whfch they 
 punctually repay in furs the following year. 
 But if they die in the mean time, the money 
 is lost. 
 
 There are but few other stores of any considera- 
 tion in Three Rivers, and they are kept chiefly by 
 
 VOL, it* D 
 
34 * STORE-KEEPERS. 
 
 French people. Mr. Burns, who keeps a store 
 by the water-side, has the advantage of the 
 rest, being a licensed auctioneer ; so that, when- 
 ever he finds business a little flat, he advertises an 
 auction on the morning of themarket days, when 
 the Habitans come over from the opposite shore 
 to dispose of their provisions, and frequently 
 takes thirty or forty pounds on those occasions. 
 The stores of Canada contain almost every de- 
 scription of goods that can be named, and exhi- 
 bit a motley collection of woollen- drapery, ha- 
 berdashery, hosiery,linen-drapery, grocery,cheese- 
 mongery, stationery, ironmongery, and the con- 
 tents of the oil shop, the gin shop, and the wine 
 vaults. The store-keepers charge from 50 to 100 
 per cent, profit upon most of their goods, and 
 sometimes a great deal more. The Harts import 
 a considerable portion of their goods from Eng- 
 land, the rest they purchase at the Quebec auc- 
 tions ; they also deal largely in pot and pearl 
 ashes and furs, which they remit to England. 
 
 A store belonging to Messrs. Munro and Bell, 
 of Quebec, is established at Three Rivers, for 
 the sale of the cast-iron stoves, potash kettles, and 
 bar-iron, manufactured at the St. Maurice forges, 
 which belong to those gentlemen. The store is 
 superintended by Mr. Graves, and the forges by 
 Mr. M'CauIey. In consequence of an invitation 
 from these gentlemen during my stay at Three 
 Rivers in August, 1808, a party of us went to sec 
 
TISIT TO THE FORGES AT ST. MAURICE. 35 
 
 the iron works. The road to them is through the 
 woods, at the back of the town, over an elevated 
 sandy soil, diversified with gentle acclivities, and 
 covered with a variety of tir and pine trees ; none 
 of them, however, grow to any great height. 
 
 After a pleasant ride of about eight miles, we 
 came to the verge of a lofty cliff, down which 
 the road meanders into an extensive valley, where 
 the works are situated. Here the manufactories, 
 the furnaces, forges, and work-shops ; the barns, 
 stables, and out-houses ; the habitations of the su- 
 perintendant and work people belonging to the 
 establishment, with their little gardens and plan- 
 tations, form altogether a small town. The river 
 St. Maurice, which runs close by the side of the 
 valley, between two lofty banks covered with 
 trees, considerably heightens the beauty of the 
 scene ; and, with the surrounding woods and 
 distant mountains, renders its situation truly ro- 
 mantic. The works are conducted by a superin- 
 tendant and two clerks, with a foreman to each 
 branch of business. There is one foundry, with 
 a large furnace for the purpose of casting stove 
 plates, potash kettles, machinery for mills, &c. 
 I saw the process of modelling and casting, which 
 is conducted with much skill. It was a remark- 
 able hot day, and when they began to cast, the 
 heat was intolerable. The men dipped their la- 
 dles into the melted ore, and carried it from the 
 furnace to the moulds, with which the floor of the 
 d 2 
 
36 DESCRIPTION OF THE I RON- WORKS. 
 
 foundry was covered. After they were all filled., 
 they took off the frames while the stove- plates and 
 potash kettles were red hot, and swept off the 
 sand with a broom and water. The sand for 
 moulding is imported in casks from England ; and 
 I was told that each cask cost them upwards of 
 nine dollars. The sand of the country, which is 
 in abundance in the vicinity of the forges, doe? 
 not answer for that work. Forty or fifty horse? 
 are employed, and upwards of 300 men, more or 
 less, according to the work in hand. They make 
 use of charcoal only, for melting the ore ; and the 
 neighbouring woods supply them with abundance 
 of fir and pine for that purpose. It is reckoned 
 superior to earth coal for the use of the furnace. 
 A great portion of the men are employed in mak- 
 ing the charcoal and carting it to the works, 
 digging ore, and conducting the batteaux on the 
 St. Maurice, to and from the store at Three 
 Rivers. The rive* answers extremely well for 
 that kind of craft, but is not deep enough for 
 larger vessels ; the current is also very rapid in 
 many places. 
 
 The works were established by the French in 
 1737. The individuals who formed themselves 
 into a company > could not make them answer, 
 and the works were purchased by the crown : 
 but, from mismanagement they could never be 
 brought to pay the expenses attending them. 
 Yet an intendant and upwards of fourteen clerks, 
 
DESCRIPTION OF THE IRON-WORKS. 37 
 
 contrived to grow rich upon the loss. They 
 made the stove-plates at that time two inches 
 tliick ! The hammers at the forges, the hellows 
 at the foundry, and some other machinery, are 
 worked by water ; only bar iron and plough 
 shares are made at the forges. The iron is 
 reckoned equal, if not superior, to the best 
 Swedish iron : it is extremely malleable, and rusts 
 but little; it is preferred by the Canadians to any 
 other iron. I have heard that the present propria 
 etors of the works, at the commencement of their 
 taking them, in order to push the sale of their bar 
 iron, which was at that time inconsiderable, pur* 
 chased a large stock of very inferior British iron, 
 and knowing that the Habitans regarded the 
 price more than the quality, they sold it to them 
 for a trifle less than the Three River iron ; but 
 he British iron was so bad, that when they came 
 to use it V sacre diable," they would have no 
 more ; and the next time bought the Three River 
 iron, which being really of a good quality, has 
 continued in reputation among them ever since* 
 
 The workmen are paid according to the quan- 
 tity of work they perform. The forges are going 
 night and day,, and the men are relieved every six 
 hours. But at the foundry, only the men em- 
 ployed in supplying the furnace, work in the sam& 
 manner ; those who cast and finish the stoves, 
 &c. work from sun-rise to sun-set, which is the 
 usual time among the French Canadians all the 
 
38 DESCRIPTION OF THE IRON-WORIvS. 
 
 3&ear round ; a great advantage is therefore derived 
 by carrying on any work in summer instead of 
 winter. The work people are chiefly French Ca- 
 nadians, a few English only, being employed in 
 making models, and as foremen or principal 
 workmen. The iron work is sent to the store at 
 Three Rivers, inbatteaux, and shipped by Mr. 
 Graves to Quebec or Montreal, as required ; or 
 sold to the people of the neighbourhood. They 
 make about 1000 stoves per annum ; the small 
 single stoves sell for 31. and the larger sort for 61. 
 each. The double stoves, which have an oven at 
 the top, are sold for 10 or 12/. according to the 
 size. Potash kettles sell from 20 to 25/. each. 
 Fresh veins of ore are daily discovered, and pur- 
 chased of the people in whose land it is found, at 
 a trifling price. Messrs. Munro and Bell, had 
 incurred great expense in collecting ore and im- 
 proving the works at the expiration of their 
 lease in 1808, and would have given 1,200/. per 
 annum, it is said, rather than it should have 
 gone into any other hands. They certainly de- 
 serve great praise for their liberal exertions, which 
 though of course prompted by their own interest 
 are yet very beneficial to the colony. A fair bar- 
 gain might, however, have been struck between 
 them and the government, for surely 60/. per 
 annum is too little for what they had before 
 paid 800/. per annum, and particularly as the 
 
BRICK-MAKER, 39 
 
 works are in a progressive state of improvement 
 and prosperity. 
 
 Most of the large bark canoes for the North- 
 west Company are made^at Three Rivers ; and 
 several women in the town make a variety of 
 handsome toys, pocket-books, purses, work « 
 baskets, pin-cushions, &c. of bark, curiously or- 
 namented with flowers worked on the bark with 
 elk hair, dyed of various colours. The Indians 
 make a few bark works of an inferior descrip- 
 tion. 
 
 At a short distance from the town there is a 
 brick-maker, and I believe the only one in Ca- 
 nada. The bricks are nearly of the same size as 
 those in England, but not quite so thick ; they 
 are of a deep red, and are made in a peculiar 
 manner. Instead of throwing the clay in a mould, 
 it is spread out to a great extent on a smooth piece 
 of ground, of the thickness of one brick, the clay 
 is then cut into parallelograms, each of which are 
 afterwards subdivided into nine bricks ; they are 
 then left to dry, and when sufficiently hard, are 
 taken up and piled in stacks, after which, they 
 are formed into a kiln and burnt as in England. 
 I do not think this method of brick-making is so 
 easy and expeditious as ours; it is, however, prac- 
 tised in the East Indies, and some other parts. 
 
 The genteel society of Three Rivers is very 
 small, and consists of the officers of the Canadian 
 regiment, the provincial judge, sheriff, English 
 
40 SOCIETY OF THREE RIVERS, 
 
 and French advocates ; the Protestant and Catho- 
 lic clergy; the grand voyer of the district ; the 
 colonel of militia; and the family of the Harts, 
 who are the only merchants or storekeepers that 
 are classed among the gentry of Three Rivers. 
 The persons whom I have enumerated, form with 
 their families, and a few other individuals, the 
 whole of the higher order of society in that town, 
 It might naturally be expected, that among so 
 few, the utmost harmony and good- will would 
 prevail ; but unfortunately, that is not the case, 
 for not half a dozen people in the place can be 
 said tp associate together in real friendship. 
 
 In a small town it happens, that the private his- 
 tories of its inhabitants are easily known to each 
 other; and it is seldom but there is something in 
 them which affords room for satirical animad- 
 version. One of the greatest weaknesses of hu- 
 man nature, is the delight which people seem to 
 take in pointing out the blemishes of their neigh- 
 bours rather than their good qualities. They 
 think by such exposure to hide their own de- 
 fects, and that they will not be suspected of doing 
 that which they condemn in others; it is this 
 which gives rise to what is called scandal. In 
 small societies, there is also a continual struggle 
 and competition for pre-eminence ; every one 
 wishes to be thought of more consequence than 
 his neighbour, and whether it is birth, riches., 
 personal qualifications, or the 'possession of an of* 
 
PARTY SPIRIT, 41 
 
 Jlce, each prides himself on that, which, in his 
 opinion, gives him a superiority over the rest, 
 whom he treats with contempt, in proportion as 
 he values his own consequence. These, to be 
 sure, are frailties to which mankind are, more or 
 less subject ; but they are such as should be cor- 
 rected and guarded against, as much as any other 
 faults we may be guilty of. Perhaps there is no 
 crime more injurious to the well-being and com- 
 fort of society, than scandal ; it destroys the 
 peace and happiness of individuals, introduces 
 discord in families, and cuts asunder the social 
 and friendly ties which ought to bind us to each 
 other. All confidence is destroyed between man 
 and man, and each becomes a spy upon the other's 
 conduct; slight blemishes are then magnified 
 into heinous vices, and good actions distorted into 
 selfish views, or ostentatious extravagance. In 
 short, it unhinges the human frame, and trans- 
 forms the image of God into a fiend of darkness. 
 
 Notwithstanding the society of Three Rivers 
 is thus broken and disjointed at times, it is some- 
 thing in its favor, that the bickerings and disputes 
 which prevail among the inhabitants, are engen- 
 dered by the elections which have taken place 
 within the last two or three years, and not by ma- 
 licious or quarrelsome dispositions. Before that 
 period the people of Three Rivers, I am told, 
 were remarkable for their friendly and social ha- 
 bits. The best friends, it is said, become the worst 
 
42 ELECTION OF MR. EZEKIEL HART. 
 
 enemies, and the election of Mr. Ezekiel Hart to 
 a seat in the provincial parliament, seems to have 
 been the torch which has set the whole town in a 
 blaze. 
 
 ThefamilyoftheHartshavingacquiredverycou- 
 siderable property,they naturally wished toacquire 
 importance with it,and the eldest brother started as 
 a candidate at the election of 1807, upon the death 
 ofoneofthemembersof theprovincial parliament ; 
 though God knows, there is hutlittle consequence 
 or respect attached to a seat in that house. The 
 father of the Harts originally emigrated from 
 England to Canada, and during the American 
 war, acquired property to a considerable amount. 
 He settled at Three Rivers, where he opened an 
 extensive store. He died about six or seven years 
 ago, and left the bulk of his property to his chil- 
 dren, three of whom have since opened separate 
 store*. By indefatigable attention to business, 
 and profiting by the follies of others, they have 
 each realized a large property, most of which, 
 that is not employed in trade, consists of houses 
 and land, situated in seigniories and townships ; 
 ihegreatest part of which has been bought remark- 
 ably cheap, at sheriffs' sales. Their property has 
 thus given them much influence among the peo- 
 ple in the town and district, many of whom are 
 beholden to them for assistance. 
 
 At the election, which was sharply contested, 
 Mr. Ezekiel Hart was chosen. The idea of a 
 
ELECTION OF MR. EZEKIEL HART. 43 
 
 tradesman, and a jew, being elected a member of 
 parliament, naturally irritated the unsuccessful 
 candidates and their party so much, that the 
 flames of acrimony and party spirit immediately 
 spread through the town, and have never yet been 
 extinguished. Their violence has in some de- 
 gree subsided, but the embers still smother in 
 secret. When Mr. Hart attended at Quebec to 
 take his seat, he met with violent. opposition from 
 the French members, upon the ground of his re- 
 ligion ; anil though he took the prescribed oath, 
 they would not allow him to sit. These gentle- 
 men surely opposed him with a very ill grace, if 
 it was merely on account of his religion, but I 
 rather suspect, they wished to keep the majority 
 on their side, and if possible, to get a French, 
 instead of an English member into the bouse. 
 The same laws which permit them to sit in the 
 house, contain no disqualifying clause on account 
 of religion. When the parliament was dissolved 
 in the summer of 1808, by the new Governor- 
 general, Mr. Hart was again chosen for the town 
 of Three Rivers by a large majority. As the par- 
 liament was not to meet till the following winter, 
 I had not an opportunity of ascertaining whether 
 he would be permitted to take his seat. In a 
 country like Canada, where the number of 
 French so far exceeds that of the British settlers, 
 and where every religion is tolerated without any 
 prejudice or hindrance whatever to its professors, 
 
44 MR, ROSS CUTHBERT. 
 
 surely it would be a great hardship (o deprive a 
 man of property, a good subject, and possessing 
 abilities inferior to few who already sit there, of a 
 seat in the provincial parliament, merely because 
 he was a Jew. The laws of Canada do not au- 
 thorize such a thing, nor ought the British go- 
 vernment to suffer it. The whole family of the 
 Harts, whatever might have been their origin, 
 (and I have my doubts whether it is inferior to 
 nine- tenths of the present British settlers in Ca- 
 nada) are respectable, both for their conduct and 
 situation in life ; and it is generally allowed that 
 without them, Three Rivers would, in point of 
 commerce, Jose what little importance it at pre- 
 sent possesses. 
 
 The amiable family of Mr. Ross Cuthbert, as 
 it is the first in the town for respectability, so it is 
 the foremost in endeavouring to reconcile the 
 differences of its neighbours, and to suppress the 
 little jealousies and party feuds that agitate the 
 place. Mr. Ross Cuthbert is the youngest of 
 three brothers, who are proprietors of the seigniory 
 of Berthier. He is also an eminent advocate, 
 and as much distinguished for his talents, and 
 for his free, open, and generous character, as his 
 sister (who resides with him) is distinguished for 
 her beauty, accomplishments, and amiable dispo- 
 sition. Mrs. Ross Cuthbert is a very charming 
 woman, and daughter of the celebrated Dr. Rush 
 of Philadelphia. 
 
 Mr. Gugy, the sheriff, is a Swiss gentleman, 
 
M. b'AILLEBOtJST. 45 
 
 and formerly held a commission in one of the 
 Swiss regiments, under Louis XVI. ; but in con- 
 sequence of the Revolution, went over to Canada 
 with his father and the rest of the family, and 
 settled upon the seigniory of Machiche, which 
 had devolved to them on the death of a relation. 
 Mr. Gugy possesses an amiable, gentlemanly cha- 
 racter, and talents that deserve a post of more im- 
 portance than the shrievalty of Three Rivers. 
 The profits of that office are fluctuating, but 
 generally average about 500/. per annum, which 
 arises chiefly out of the sale of lands, and law- 
 suits. A son of the celebrated Judge Blackstone 
 occupied the office of sheriff a few years ago ; 
 but in consequence of some inattention to the 
 duties of the situation, was superseded. I have 
 been told that Mr. Blackstone was rather harshly 
 treated in that affair. He still resides at Three 
 Rivers as a private gentleman, upon a small an- 
 nuity. He was educated at the University of 
 Oxford, and is said to be possessed of consider- 
 able abilities. 
 
 A French gentleman of the name of D'Aille- 
 boust resides in the town, whose ancestor was 
 governor of Three Rivers and Montreal, nearly a 
 century and a half ago. He possesses a respect- 
 able independency, which enables him to pass his 
 time agreeably, by gallanting the ladies in the 
 morning, and playing at whist, cribbage, or 
 piquette with them in the evening. He is a plea- 
 
46 
 
 AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 sant, lively man,, and is in much request at the 
 Three River routs, tea parties, converzaziones 
 and petit soupers. 
 
 The amusements of Three Rivers consists of 
 the beforementioned parties, and a few dances 
 in the winter. Sometimes assemblies are held at 
 one of the taverns ; in which there is a subscrip- 
 tion ball once a fortnight during the winter sea- 
 son ; but unless the genteel part of the society 
 are on good terms with each other, very few at- 
 tend, and scarcely enough can be found to make 
 up a dance. In the winter of 1807, the military 
 gentlemen subscribed, but would not attend, be- 
 cause some persons were admitted whom they disap- 
 proved of; in consequence of which, there was a 
 paucity of gentlemen, which obliged the ladies to 
 take one another for partners, and dance down by 
 themselves. 
 
 Concerts and plays are unknown in Three 
 Rivers, unless sometimes a few strollers arrive 
 from the States, and pass through the town on 
 their way to Quebec. The last summer I was 
 there, a man and his wife amused the inhabitants 
 for a few nights, by dancing blindfold over a 
 dozen eggs, singing Tid-re-i, and murdering some 
 of the finest passages in English plays. 
 
 The post from Quebec and Montreal arrives at 
 Three Rivers on Tuesdays and Fridays, in the 
 forenoon. The couriers after delivering their 
 letters for this town,, at the post-office, receive the 
 
MARKET. 47 
 
 letters for the other towns and continue on their 
 route, the one for Montreal, and the other for 
 Quebec. The courier from Montreal generally 
 arrives an hour or two earlier than the other, 
 which gives the inhabitants time to answer the 
 letters of their Montreal correspondents before 
 the Quebec post arrives ; but they are obliged to 
 wait an interval of two or three days, till the next 
 post day, before they can answer the letters of 
 their Quebec correspondents, as the courier from 
 Montreal proceeds immediately on bis route to 
 Quebec, after delivering his letters at Three 
 Rivers. This is a great inconvenience to the in- 
 habitants of that town, particularly those in bu- 
 siness. It might, however, be easily remedied by 
 a regulation, enjoining the couriers to be at 
 Three Rivers together at a certain hour, and to 
 wait one hour after the delivery of their letters, 
 before they departed for Quebec and Montreal. 
 This interval would be sufficient to afford the in- 
 habitants an opportunity of immediately answer- 
 ing their correspondents at both towns. 
 
 The market is held twice a week, on the post 
 days ; and in general the supplies are scarcely 
 sufficient for the consumption of the town. The 
 country people come from Champlain across the 
 St. Maurice river, and from Becancour on the 
 opposite shore of the St. Lawrence. They arrive 
 at Three Rivers in the summer, as early as five 
 o'clock in the morning, and most of the inhabit- 
 
4S SCUFFLE IN the market-place. 
 
 ants are in the market place frequently an hour 
 before their arrival, in order to have their choice 
 of the provisions. By eight o'clock the market is 
 generally over. A law prevails, which forbids 
 the country people from selling their provisions 
 before they are taken to the market place; but 
 the gentlemen, (for the ladies very rarely go to 
 to market) are so eager to purchase, that they go 
 down to the waterside, look over the provisions 
 in the canoes, single out whatever they prefer, 
 and follow the Habitans into the market, where 
 they purchase it. In consequence of this eager- 
 ness, some curious scuffles frequently take place 
 for the possession of a brace of partridges, a 
 quarter of lamb, or a fine salmon, A little mem- 
 ber of parliament, one morning, having singled 
 out a couple of fowls in the Habitant's canoe, 
 followed the man to the market, intending to 
 purchase them. It so happened, however, that a 
 tall colonel of the army, at that very moment, 
 fixed his eyes upon the same fowls, without 
 knowing that any person had bought them, (as it 
 were by anticipation,) before him. No sooner, 
 therefore, did the Habitant arrive in the market- 
 place, than the colonel immediately pounced 
 upon the fowls, and asked the price of them ; for 
 it is a custom in the Canadian markets to take 
 possession of the article first, and bargain after- 
 wards ; otherwise, while one was haggling, another 
 would throw down the money and go off with it 
 
SWELLED tfECKS. 49 
 
 Scarce had the colonel grasped the poultry,, when 
 the little member of parliament, whose attention 
 had been called off by a fine large salmon that 
 had just arrived, looked up in the officer's face, 
 and cried out, " Sir, they are my fowls. "*-* ff How 
 came they to be your's," said the officer, <c when 
 I followed the man to the market ?"— " I fol- 
 lowed him first," replied the other. — c( But I got 
 possession first/* rejoined the officer; and as pos- 
 session is nine points of the law> he was deter- 
 mined to keep the poultry. Some sharp words 
 however, escaped from the little man, and the 
 officer shook a large stick over his head, which 
 caused the member of parliament to jump from 
 one side of the market place to the other, for one 
 blow would perhaps have annihilated him ; upon 
 which the officer marched off triumphantly with 
 his fowls. 
 
 Many of the females at Three Rivers are trou- 
 bled with wens, swelled necks, and other disor- 
 ders of the throat, as mumps, swelling of the 
 glands, &c. In other parts of Canada, there are 
 but few who are afflicted with those complaints; 
 but in Three Rivers they seem to be more gene- 
 ral, particularly among the women. I have 
 never heard the cause of them satisfactorily ac- 
 counted for. Some are of opinion, that they are 
 occasioned by the wdlnvater of the town ; others, 
 that they are caused by the water of the St. Law- 
 rence, which is impregnated with snow and ice 
 
 VOL, II. JB 
 
50 INFLUENZA. 
 
 upwards of six months in the year. If swelled* 
 necks were occasioned by snow water, I should 
 think they would not be so peculiar to Three 
 Rivers, and that they would prevail equally at 
 Quebec and Montreal, where the river water is 
 used in abundance. It is certain, however, that 
 in some of the mountainous parts of Switzerland 
 and Styria, the women have large wens and swell- 
 ings on their necks, called by the Styrians, bron- 
 clioceles, which are supposed to arise from the 
 frequent use of snow water. It is possible, there- 
 fore, that the same disease in Canada may arise, in 
 some measure, from a similar cause. 
 
 In other respects Three Rivers is favourable to 
 health, and possesses a more steady climate than 
 Quebec, which being situated in the neighbour- 
 hood of so many lofty mountains, is oftener sub- 
 ject to rain, and frequent variations of the wea- 
 ther. In the summer of 1807^ Three Rivers was 
 visited by the influenza, which had proceeded 
 gradually from south to north, through the 
 United States to Canada, like a destructive blast. 
 In the southern parts of the continent it was so 
 violent as to occasion the death of several per- 
 sons ; but before it reached Canada its force was 
 nearly spent. It was, nevertheless, sufficient to af- 
 ford plenty of employment for the medical gen- 
 tlemen. At Quebec the symptoms were much 
 slighter than at Montreal and Three Rivers. 
 
A MAD GIRL. 51 
 
 i 
 
 where some people were confined to their beds 
 upwards of a fortnight with it. 
 
 A mad girl, about twenty years of age is con- 
 lined in a littie hut, under the care of a French 
 Canadian a short distance from the town. She 
 is chained to the side of the room on account of 
 her violence. The winter before last she was 
 suffered to go about, to the disgrace of the town. 
 She is now under the care of commissioners, ap- 
 pointed by an act of the provincial parliament, 
 to provide for the maintenance of insane persons 
 and idiots. This lunatic is the only instance 
 in Three Rivers ; but in Quebec and Montreal 
 there are several who are permitted to stroll 
 about the streets, and are often a great nuisance 
 to the inhabitants. One of them, at Quebec, I 
 have frequently seen beat his head against a 
 stone wall, uttering the most impious curses : for 
 it unfortunately happens, that if any money is 
 given them, they immediately spend it in rum, 
 and thus increase their paroxysms of madness or 
 idiotism. As there are hospitals for their recep- 
 tion, it is disgraceful to permit them to be at 
 large. 
 
 Small as the town of Three Rivers is.the number 
 of foundlings, who are placed under the care of a 
 poor person to bring up, are equal, in proportion 
 to its population, to the number of children at 
 the Foundling Hospital in London. It would be 
 creditable to the inhabitants of Three Rivers, 
 
 e2 
 
hH FOUNDLINGS. 
 
 could I say that they are as well taken care of as 
 in London ; but the contrary is the case : for in 
 consequence of the scanty allowance for their 
 support, little attention is paid to them, and I am 
 told that few live to maturity. This culpable 
 neglect is highly disgraceful ; for there either 
 ought not to be a receptacle of the kind, or it 
 should be placed upon a respectable footing, 
 
LEAVE THREE RIVERS. hS 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 Leave Three Rivers — Voyage to Montreal — Point 
 du Lac — Baron cle Becancour — Lake St. Peter 
 —Machiche — River du Loup — Riclilieu Islands 
 — Town of Sorel — Horrid Murders — Captain 
 Sorel—Chambly — Boucherville— Eagle Island 
 Island of Montreal — Rapids — Incredible Anec- 
 dote — Island of St. Helen — City of Montreal 
 Ignorance of a Pilot — Interior of Montreal- 
 Dillon's Hotel — Parade — M'Tavish's Monu- 
 ment — Convents — Franciscan Friars— Paul- 
 Street — Notre Dame Street — View of Mont- 
 real — Theatre Public Amusements— Hospi- 
 tality — Ship-building — Advice to Gentlemen 
 respecting European Servants — Useful Hints — 
 Markets — Turnpike Road — Visit to La Chine 
 — Indian Department — Visit to the Indians at 
 Cachenonaga — Indian Doll — Chevalier Lori- 
 viicr — Distressing Event — Providential Deli- 
 verance — Adventures of Captain John — His 
 Daughter — Love and Revenge —Roman Ca- 
 tholic Funerals — Leave Montreal. 
 
 On the 31st of October 1807, I left Three 
 Rivers for Montreal, in order to proceed to the 
 United States, where I intended to pass the win- 
 ter previous to my return to England. There 
 
54 voyage to Montreal; 
 
 being a fair wind up the river, I embarked on 
 board a large schooner, with a good stock of 
 provisions for the voyage. The master of the 
 vessel M. Boudrow was a respectable young Ca- 
 nadian who had originally been bred to the law, 
 but had quitted the desk for the deck. About four 
 in the afternoon we got under weigh, but pro- 
 ceeded no farther than the entrance to lake St. 
 Peter, where we anchored for the night. The 
 accommodation on board was wretched, and 
 I had to sleep upon the cabin lockers, wrapped 
 up in my great coat. We lay about nine miles 
 from Three Rivers, between the seigniory of Ni- 
 colet on the south-east shore, and Poiut du Lac 
 on the north-west shore. The seigniories of Ni- 
 colet, Godefroi, Becancour, Gentilly, &c. on the 
 south-east are extremely fertile, well-settled, and 
 yield large crops of wheat. The small lake St. 
 Paul, situated in Becancour, and discharging it- 
 self into the St. Lawrence by a small river that 
 runs through Godefroi, adds greatly to the value 
 of the land in its vicinity; and the neat farms 
 along its shores, give it a delightful appearance. 
 The village and seigniory of Becancour re- 
 ceived their name from the Baron de Becan- 
 cour, grand surveyor of the highways, and 
 grand master of the waters and forests of New 
 France. This nobleman resided about a century 
 ago at the entrance of Becancour River, formerly 
 called - Riviere Puante/ or Stinking River, in 
 consequence of the waters having been infected 
 
POINT DU LAC. 55 
 
 by the dead bodies of a number of Indians, who 
 were slain while coming down the river in their 
 canoes : their enemies laid in ambush, and sent a 
 few of their warriors on the river as a decoy, the 
 others fell into the snare, tind were massacred. 
 The Baron carried on a lucrative trade for furs 
 with the Indians who lived in the village, but his 
 extensive seigniory was not settled till 1750. It 
 now belongs to Colonel Bruyere of the engineers; 
 and a small fief to Mr. Ezekiei Hart. Several of 
 the Abenaquis Indians still inhabit the village of 
 Becancour, and possess a small island in the 
 river. 
 
 On the north-west shore the soil from Three 
 Rivers to Point du Lac, and for several miles 
 above and below those places, is of a light sandy 
 nature, intermixed in several places with a sort of 
 clay or marl, which occasions it to be more pro- 
 ductive than it otherwise would be. The seig- 
 niory of Point du Lac is the property of Mrs. 
 Montour, the widow of a gentleman, formerly 
 a partner in the North-west company. He re* 
 tired with about 20,000/. with which he pur- 
 chased the seigniory, and erected a handsome 
 dwelling-house, large flour and saw-mills, &c. 
 If he had managed his concerns with prudence, 
 he might have increased his fortune to a great 
 extent ; but his style of living, his free and gene^ 
 sous disposition, were ill calculated for the 
 accumulation of property. His house, bein£ 
 
56 LAKE ST. TETER. 
 
 situated near the post road, was a house of call for 
 all his numerous acquaintance, who ate, drank, 
 and slept there, whenever they travelled that 
 road. In a few years his money was gone, and 
 most of those who had basked in the sunshine of 
 his prosperity, took their leave. This too often 
 happens with the gentlemen of the North-west 
 company, who retire from the concern. They 
 emerge suddenly into civilized life, after a ba- 
 nishment of many years in dreary forests and 
 among a race of savages ; and are apt to be daz- 
 zled by the glare of refinement and luxury, 
 whose temptations are too powerful to be resisted. 
 Hence they are frequently led into error and 
 extravagance, which ultimately despoil them of 
 their hard-earned property. 
 
 The next morning, at day-break, we got under 
 weigh ; but the wind falling off, we could but 
 just reach the other end of the lake, and came 
 to anchor near one of the Richlieu islands, situ- 
 ated within two or three miles of the town of 
 Sorel. The lake is twenty-one miles in length, 
 and about eighteen in breadth. This part of the 
 River St. Lawrence is very shallow, and vessels, 
 drawing twelve feet water frequently get aground. 
 In the spring it is somewhat deeper; but the large 
 vessels from Europe seldom arrive in time to go 
 up to Montreal so early in the season. I should 
 think that greater depths of water might be found, 
 if the lake was properly surveyed : at present, 
 
RIVER DU LOUP. 5? 
 
 vessels keep only in one channel, which has but 
 little more than twelve feet water. The current 
 of Lake St. Peter is very slight, and requires little 
 wind for vessels to stem it. 
 
 On the north-west shore, from Point du Lac, 
 are the seigniories of Machiche, River du Loup, 
 Maskinonge, York, and Berthier. They are re- 
 markable for their fertility, and the plentiful 
 crops of wheat which they produce. They have 
 also each a small village in the vicinity of the 
 parish church. That of River du Loup, is pret- 
 tily situated on the border of the river of that 
 name, which disembogues itself into the lake. 
 The church, which is of unusual size, and evinces 
 the populousness of the seigniory, has been built 
 in a costly manner ; and many of the Habi- 
 tans have paid fifty or sixty pounds towards 
 the building of it. It has two lofty spires co- 
 vered with tin ; but they seem to have lost their 
 perpendicular position, though lately erected. In 
 the month of August, 1808, after my return from 
 the States, I travelled by land from Three Rivers 
 to Montreal, and had an opportunity of passing 
 through these seigniories. They appear better 
 cultivated, and in a higher state of improvement, 
 than any other part of Lower Canada, below 
 Montreal, The farmers are wealthy and nume- 
 rous ; and the land rich and productive. In many 
 places I noticed large pat ches of fine hemp, above 
 teven feet in height; the seed had been roughly 
 
58 RICHLIEU ISLANDS. 
 
 thrown on the ground, and it came up without 
 having had the least care or attention bestowed 
 upon it. 
 
 The seigniories on the south-west shore of the 
 lake, are neatly as fertile, and yield plentiful 
 crops of wheat. The inhabitants are not so 
 numerous, owing most likely to the disadvantage 
 of not having a post road on their side of the 
 river ; but they are possessed of considerable pro- 
 perty. The islands of Richlieu, situated at the 
 south-west entrance of the lake, and amongst which 
 we lay at anchor, are numerous, and of various 
 sizes; they lie between the seigniories of Berthier 
 and Ymasca. Several of them a,re partly cleared 
 of their woods, and afford good pasturage for cat- 
 tle. They lie very low, and are always overflowed 
 in the spring, whenthelake is swelled by the melt- 
 ing of the ice and snow. They abound with a 
 variety of wild fowl, principally duck and teal. 
 I do not understand there are any animals upon 
 them, except those of a domestic nature. As we 
 had to remain among these islands the next day, 
 in consequence of a fqul wind, I amused myself 
 by going ashore to the one nearest the vessel. 
 It was covered with trees of a small growth, 
 chiefly ash and birch, and with a variety of 
 shrubs, brush-wood, and long grass. The wild 
 grape vines were entwined round the trees in 
 great plenty, and a few bunches were still hang- 
 ing upon them. On the island was a small hut, 
 
TOWN OF SOHEL. 59 
 
 in which we found an old French woman : her 
 husband was gone round on the other side to fish. 
 They reside there during the summer, and fish in 
 the narrow channels formed by the cluster of 
 islands. 
 
 The next morning we weighed anchor, and in 
 half an hour were clear of the islands. A gentlo 
 breeze carried us slowly past the town of Sorel, 
 on our left : it is situated at the entrance of the 
 Richlieu, Chambly, or Sorel river ( for it has all 
 three names) which runs into Lake Champlain, 
 and has a respectable appearance from the water ; 
 it is somewhat smaller than Three Rivers, and is 
 inhabited by several English and French families. 
 The streets are prettily laid out, but the houses 
 are yet very thinly scattered. Sorel, indeed, 
 seems rather on the decline, both in wealth and 
 population ; and the few stores that are kept 
 there, are mostly dependent upon the merchants 
 of Montreal and Quebec. Its trade is confined 
 to the supplying the inhabitants of the town and 
 neighbourhood with English manufactured goods, 
 West-India produce, &c. The little importance 
 that was formerly attached to Sorel, arose from 
 the ship-building carried on there for some years ; 
 but of late, that has entirely ceased. 
 
 The country people in the vicinity are mostlj r 
 employed as voyageurs in the North-west fur- 
 trade, and the cultivation of their small farms is 
 IcSt to their wives and children. When they return 
 
6*0 HORRID MURDERS. 
 
 home, they seldom bring more than enough to 
 support them during the winter. The soil is 
 thus neglected, and the town is badly supplied 
 with provisions. Three horrid murders were 
 committed here about seven or eight years ago. 
 A store, kept by an old man, was observed, one 
 morning, not opened as usual : the neighbours 
 knocked at the door, but not getting admittance, 
 they broke it open, and discovered the old man, 
 and his niece who lived with him, lying dead 
 behind the counter. It appeared that they must 
 have been just called from supper to serve the 
 villain who had murdered them, for the supper 
 things were laid out on the table in an adjoining 
 parlour. The till was emptied of all the money, 
 and many articles strewed about the floor. 
 
 The very next night, to the dread and asto- 
 nishment of this little town, another man was 
 murdered in his store in a similar manner, ano* 
 his money stolen; but what was most surprizing, 
 the murderer remained undiscovered, and even 
 unsuspected ! nor was it ever positively ascer- 
 tained, who had been guilty of such atrocious 
 deeds. But when the foreman of the ship-yard, 
 an European, decamped a few days after, with 
 the wife of a tradesman in the town, strong sus- 
 picions were entertained that he was the mur- 
 derer. He however made his escape into the 
 United States, before any measures could be 
 taken to apprehend him. 
 
CHAMBLV. , 61 
 
 A fort was constructed originally on the site 
 of the town in 1665, as a defence against the 
 Iroquois. M. de Sorel, a captain in the regi- 
 ment of Carignon Salieres, superintended the 
 erection of the works, and gave his name to the 
 place, and to that part of the river in its vicinity : 
 it is now called William Henry, in honour of the 
 Duke of Clarence, who visited Canada about 
 twenty years ago. The Island of St, John in the 
 Gulf of St. Lawrence, has also been called Prince 
 Edward's Island, in honour of the Duke of Kent; 
 and several other parts and places have had their 
 names unnecessarily changed. It is owing to 
 this absurd practice that towns and cities, vene- 
 rable for their antiquity, or remarkable for their 
 history, in various parts of the world, are now 
 confounded with the most insignificant villages, 
 and often occasion many erroneous statements 
 in geography. 
 
 Several miles up the Richlicu river, is Fort 
 "Chambly, originally a mere wooden block-house, 
 but now a substantial stone building, bearing 
 some resemblance to a castle. It was constructed 
 by M. de Chamhly under the French govern- 
 ment : a small detachment of troops are stationed 
 here ; and a few respectable Canadians reside in 
 the neighbourhood. , 
 
 As we passed Sorel : the protestant and ca- 
 tholic churches, with the houses, stores and 
 magazines near the water side, had a very pretty 
 
0*S EAGLE ISLAND. 
 
 effect. The shores on both sides the St. Law- 
 rence, together with the small islands interspersed 
 in several parts of the river, presented a succes- 
 sion of beautiful landscapes during the remainder 
 of my voyage to Montreal. The richness of the 
 soil, and the number of inhabitants increases 
 as you proceed up the river : the houses and 
 villages are prettily scattered along the banks, 
 and intermingled with clusters of trees, and culti- 
 vated plantations. Boucherville, a small village 
 situated on the south-east shore, a few mile§ 
 below Montreal, is a beautiful spot, and forms the 
 quiet retreat of several of the old French noblesse, 
 and people of ancient and respectable families. 
 Here they spend their small incomes in a little 
 society of their own, far from the noise and 
 bustle of the world, and enjoy at once the plea- 
 sures of retirement and social intercourse. 
 
 Near " Bout, de Lisle," or the end of the 
 Island of Montreal, the river is intersected by a 
 number of small iiles and islets. One, named 
 Eagle Island, is the property of Captain Cart- 
 wright of (he Canadian feneibles, and was cele- 
 brated for some excellent .horses which he reared 
 upon it. It contains only his own house, in 
 which he resided for several years with his fa- 
 mily. The surrounding scenery is beautiful, and 
 must afford a delightful retreat to those who are 
 fond of rural felicity. Within view of this 
 is 'and is the ferry which crosses from the post- 
 
INCREDIBLE ANECDOTE. 63 
 
 road at Repentigny, to the end of the Island 
 of Montreal. A bridge was formerly built over 
 the river in the vicinity of this place by Mr. Por- 
 teous of Terrebonne, but was carried away two or 
 three years ago by the ice. The provincial parlia- 
 ment have recently passed an act permitting him to 
 build another from Repentigny to Isle Bourdon. 
 
 The shores of the island of Montreal are ele- 
 vated several feet above the level of the river. 
 The soil is uncommonly rich and fertile, and 
 yields more abundant harvests than any other 
 part of Lower Canada. The price of land ave- 
 rages from 20 to SO dollars per acre. The island 
 is 30 miles in length, and about 7 in breadth. It 
 belongs to the seminary of St. Sulpice, by which 
 order the island was originally settled} about 
 160 years ago under the Abbe Quetus, for the 
 purpose of establishing a seminary similar to that 
 of France. 
 
 As our vessel approached within two miles of 
 the town, we met with the strong current, or 
 rapid, which runs between Montreal and the 
 opposite Island of St. Helen. Though we were 
 favoured with almost a gale of wind, yet the 
 schooner moved very slowly through the water; 
 and it often happens that vessels are baffled in 
 their attempts to get up to the town. I have 
 heard an anecdote related, concerning a ship 
 from England, that failed in getting through 
 this rapid, which, as it staggers all belief, I 
 
64 MONTREAL. 
 
 should not have noticed, had it not been men- 
 tioned as a fact by many people in Canada. Two 
 ships arrived from England, early in the year, 
 and went up the river at the same time. The 
 one drawing less water, I suppose, than the other, 
 succeeded in reaching the town of Montreal : 
 but the other not being able to stem the current 
 was obliged to anchor below. The sucessful ves- 
 sel, having discharged her cargo, and taken in 
 another, sailed for England ; after which she 
 returned to Canada, the same year, with a fresh 
 cargo, went up the river, and found her compa- 
 nion still lying at the foot of the rapid I They 
 afterwards returned to England together. 
 
 The opposite Island of St. Helen, belongs to the 
 Baroness de Longueil : this lady married a gentle- 
 man of the name of Grant, and brought him very 
 extensive and valuable landed property. Since 
 his death, it has been divided between her and 
 the children. The eldest son goes by the familiar 
 appellation of Baron Grant. 
 
 The town of Montreal has a singular appear- 
 ance when viewed from the water, in conse- 
 quence of the light-grey stone of the new build- 
 ings, and the tin covered roofs of the houses, 
 which emit a strong glare when the sun shines. 
 The shipping lie close to the shore, which is very 
 steep, and forms a kind of natural wharf, upon 
 which the vessels discharge their cargoes. About 
 twenty yards back, the land rises to the height of 
 
SINGULAR ESCAPES. 65 
 
 15 or 20 feet; and an artificial wharf has been 
 constructed, and faced with plank ; the goods are, 
 however, all shipped from, and landed upon, the^ 
 beach below. A great many English vessels 
 arrive annually at Montreal, but it is a voyage 
 that few captains are willing to make a second 
 time, if they can possibly avoid it, the navi- 
 gation up the river above Quebec, being very 
 hazardous, and the pilots unskilful and inatten- 
 tive. The vessel in which I came home, was run 
 broadside on one of the islands just below Mont- 
 real, though going with the wind right aft. 
 The pilot was intoxicated, and^the vessel was 
 just running through the wrong channel, when 
 he ordered the helm hard down ; it was, how- 
 ever, too late, and she went ashore : fortu- 
 nately she was got off with little damage, 
 and arrived at Quebec. Upon our depar- 
 ture from Quebec, for England, we met with 
 another accident of a similar nature though 
 the captain had procured a fresh pilot. The man 
 had taken us sate through the most difficult pas- 
 sage in the river at night,* and the next day> 
 about noon, at the very moment when we were 
 going along with a fair wind, he ran us upon 
 Hare Island reef. There we lay for three hours 
 in the painful expectation that the vessel would 
 beat her bottom out, or otherwise be seriously 
 injured ; as the wind continued to increase,, and 
 she thumped violently upon a hard chalky ground, 
 vol. II. f Imba 
 
66 MONTREAL. 
 
 Very luckily it was ebb tide, when the accident 
 happened, and after lightening the vessel consi- 
 derably of some staves and spars, she floated 
 on the return of tide. We were then above a 
 hundred miles below Quebec; and it would have 
 been mortifying to have had to return back to 
 repair our damages : the vessel, however, did not 
 make a great deal of water, and we proceeded 
 to sea, after discharging the pilot at Father Point. 
 The captain was so sickened of his Canadian trip, 
 which was the first he had made, that he swore 
 he never would enter the St. Lawrence again. 
 The North-west merchants have two or three 
 vessels of their own, which make an annual 
 voyage to Canada, to carry home their furs, &c> 
 The interior of Montreal is extremely heavy 
 and gloomy. The buildings are ponderous 
 masses of stone, erected with very little taste and 
 less judgment. They are seldom more than two 
 stories above the ground floor, including garrets. 
 The doors and window-shutters are covered with 
 large sheets of tin, painted of a red, or lead- 
 colour, corresponding with the gloomy darkness 
 of the stone, of which most of the old houses are 
 built. There is a heavy sameness of appearauce 
 which pervades all the streets, whether new or 
 old, nor are they remarkable for width, though 
 they are for the most part laid out in a regular 
 manner. The only open place or square in the 
 town, except the two markets, is the Place 
 d'Armes, and which, under the French govern- 
 

 
 r 
 
dillon's hotel. 67 
 
 ment, was the place where the garrison troops 
 paraded. The French Catholic churctroccupies 
 the whole of the east side of the square, and on 
 the south side, adjoining some private houses, is 
 a very good tavern, called the Montreal Hotel, 
 kept by Mr. Dillon, During my stay in this 
 city, I lodged at his house, and found it superior 
 to any in Canada ; every thing in it is neat, 
 cleanly, and well conducted, and perfectly agree- 
 able to an Englishman's taste. The old gentleman 
 came out in the retinue of Lord Dorchester ; he 
 is a very ingenious character, and fond of express- 
 ing his attachment to his king and country, by il- 
 luminations, and firing his petereroes off in the 
 square, upon his Majesty's birth-day, and other 
 extraordinary occasions. While I remained at 
 his house, I found the bells of the French church 
 extremely unpleasant ; they have a fine loud tone, 
 but are rung in such a discordant manner, and so 
 frequently, that they become quite a nuisance to 
 those who are obliged to live near them. 
 
 The town walls and fortifications, which were 
 erected to protect the inhabitants against the ir- 
 ruptions of the Iroquois, and other hostile Indians, 
 are now falling to decay. A great part have been 
 levelled with the ground, and an act has lately 
 passed the Provincial Parliament to remove the 
 remainder. 
 
 At the back of the town, just behind the new 
 court-house, is the parade, where the troops are 
 
 f 2 
 
68 „ Parade. 
 
 exercised. The ground is considerably elevated 
 along this pari and forms a steep bank for several 
 hundred yards in length. Heie the inhabitants 
 walk of an evening, and enjoy a beautiful view of 
 the suburbs of St. Lawrence and St. Antoine; and 
 the numerous gardens, orchards, and plantations 
 of the gentry, adorned with neat and handsome 
 dwelling houses. Large green fields are in- 
 terspersed amidst this rich variety of objects, 
 which are concentrated in an extensive valley, 
 gradually rising towards a lofty mountain, that 
 stands about two miles and a half distant, at the 
 back of the town : from this mountain the island 
 has taken its name of Montreal, or Royal Mount. 
 It is said to be elevated 700 miles above the level of 
 the river, and is upwards of two miles in length from 
 north to south. It is covered with trees and shrubs, 
 except towards its base, where some parts have 
 been cleared and cultivated. A large handsome 
 stone building, belonging to the widow of the late 
 Mr. M'Tavish, of the North west company stands 
 at the foot of the mountain, in a very conspicuous 
 situation. Gardens and orchards have been laid 
 out, and considerable improvements made, which 
 add much to the beauty of the spot. Mr, M'Tavish 
 is buried in a tomb a short distance from his 
 house on the side of the mountain, in the midst of 
 a thick shrubbery. A monumental pillar is erected 
 over the vault, and may be seen a long way off. 
 
 The town and its four streets or suburbs, oc- 
 cupy a considerable extent of ground, and the 
 
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 69 
 
 number of inhabitants is computed at 12,000. 
 The principal public buildings are, the General 
 hospital ; the Hotel dieu; the convent of Notre 
 Dame; the French cathedral; the English church, 
 an unfinished building; the old monastery of 
 Franciscan friars, converted into barracks ; theSe- 
 minarj ; the Court house; Government house, &c. 
 
 The General Hospital was founded by Ma- 
 dame Youville, a widow lady, in 1753, and con- 
 tains a superior and 19 nuns ; it is situated on the 
 banks of the river, near a small rivulet, which di- 
 vides it from the town. There is also a college 
 for the education of young men, founded in 
 1719 by the Sieur Charron. 
 
 The hotel dieu was established in 1644 by 
 Madame de Bouillon for the purpose of adminis- 
 tering relief to the sick poor ; it contains a supe- 
 rior and 39 nuns, who attend and nurse the pa- 
 tients. An apartment, in the upper part of the 
 bouse, is appropriated to the females, and a large 
 room below for the men. The establishment is 
 now chiefly supported by a slender income, aris- 
 ing from landed property ; the funds upon which 
 it formerly relied, being rested in Paris, were lost 
 during the revolution. 
 
 The convent of Notre Dame contains a supe- 
 rior and upwards of 40 nuns. It was founded 
 about the year 1G50, by Mademoiselle Marguerite 
 Bourgeois, for the instruction of female children. 
 The sisters of this institution are not confined in 
 
70 
 
 PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 
 
 so strict a manner, as at the ether convents, but 
 have the liberty of going out. They attend mass 
 at the French church on Sunday morning and af- 
 ternoon. They are dressed in black gowns and 
 hoods, and are chiefly elderly women. 
 
 There are two of the old Franciscan friars still 
 living in one corner of their monastery, the re- 
 mainder of which has been converted into bar- 
 racks for the troops quartered in the city. Upon 
 the arrival of several additional regiments at Que- 
 bec, the 49th and 100th were sent up to Montreal 
 to do duty in that town, and to garrison the out- 
 posts near the American line. 
 
 The French cathedral in the Place D'Armes 
 is a large substantial stone building, built with 
 little taste. The interior is, however, plentifully 
 decorated in the Catholic style, with all the para- 
 phernalia of that religion ; and the size of the 
 building renders it a very commodious place of 
 worship, and well adapted for the accommodation 
 of its numerous congregation. In summer, a 
 great many people kneel outside the church in 
 preference to being within. The service of the 
 English church is performed at present in a small 
 chapel, which is also used by the Presbyterians. 
 A handsome new church is partly built, but for 
 want of funds, remains in an unfinished state. 
 
 The Court-house is a neat and spacious build- 
 ing, and an ornament to the town ; a gaol is 
 building on one side of it, upon the site of the 
 
PAUL-STREET. 71 
 
 old college of the Jesuits. The city is divided into 
 Upper and LowerTowns, though there is very little 
 difference in their elevation. The principal street of 
 the latter exte nds from no rth to south the whole 
 length of the ^^rncaBt the water-side, and is 
 called Paul-street. Here are situated the whole- 
 sale and retail stores of the merchants and traders; 
 the lower market-place ; the post-office ; the 
 Hotel dieu ; and a large tavern, formerly kept by 
 Hamilton, but now in the possession of Mr, 
 Holmes. There are several smaller taverns in this 
 street and in the market-place, but they are 
 frequented principally by the American traders 
 who visit Montreal. Paul-street, though narrow, 
 presents a scene of greater bustle than any other 
 part of the town, and is the chief mart of the 
 trade and commerce carried on in Montreal. 
 
 Several short streets proceed westward from 
 Paul-street, and communicate with that of Notre 
 Dame, which runs in a parallel line, extending 
 the whole length of the city. This street forms 
 what is called the Upper Town, and contains the 
 Recollet monastery, the French seminary, the 
 Catholic church, and Place d'Armes ; the new 
 English church, the convent of Notre Dame, 
 the court-house and gaol, and the old building 
 called the Government-house, which latter has 
 no claim to particular notice. The dwelling- 
 houses of the principal merchants, are mostly situ- 
 ated in Notre Dame street, and other parts of the 
 Upper Town, their stores being stationed near tho 
 
72 NOTRE DAME STREET. 
 
 •Water-side. These two parallel streets are consi- 
 derably lengthened to the northward by tbe su> 
 burb of Quebec; audio the southward by the su- 
 burbs of St. Antoine and Recollet. In the centre 
 of Notre Danie street, «,j._v - -.v^t branches off 
 to the westward, and forms the suburb of St. 
 Lawrence. It is also the high road to the interior 
 of the island, and crossing the intermediate val- 
 ley, passes oyer the foot of the mountain, in 
 one of the short streets leading to the Upper 
 Town, and situated opposite the court-house, 
 anew market-place, and rows of convenient stalls, 
 have been recently constructed ; it will be a great 
 accommodation to the town, as the old market in 
 Paul-street is too much confined, for the in- 
 creased population of the place. The streets of 
 Montreal are, for the most part well paved, and 
 the improvements which are going on throughout 
 the town, will render it more commodious and 
 agreeable than it is at present. The town itself 
 will always be gloomy, but the environs are 
 beautiful. 
 
 All the principal North-west merchants reside 
 at Montreal, which is {he emporium of their 
 trade, and the grand mart of the commerce car- 
 ried on between Canada and the United States. 
 They, and other respectable merchant:., have 
 country-houses a few miles from the city, which, 
 with their numerous orchards and gardens, well 
 stocked with eyery variety of fruit trees, shrubs, 
 and flowers, render the surroundipg country ex* 
 
!-■-■-■"■-■- 
 
i 
 
TIEW OF MONTREAL. 73 
 
 ircmely beautiful and picturesque. The suc- 
 cession of rich and variegated objects that are 
 presented to the eve of the spectator, from the 
 base of the neighbouring mountain, cannot be 
 surpassed in any part of Canada, with the excep- 
 tion, perhaps, of the view from Cape Diamond at 
 Quebec. They are, however, both of a different 
 nature, and may be described like Homer and 
 Virgil ; the one, grand, bold, and romantic, the 
 other, serene, beautiful, and elegant. Quebec 
 has more of the majesty of nature ; Montreal 
 more of the softness of art. 
 
 A large store has been converted into a theatre, 
 in which Mr, Prigmore's company occasionally 
 perform. Mr. and Mrs. Usher, and a few others 
 from Boston, whom I have mentioned in a former 
 chapter, met last summer with a tolerable recep- 
 tion, which, unless the embargo is taken ofif in 
 the States, will most likely induce them to remain 
 in Canada. Society is reckoned more friendly and 
 agreeable in Montreal than in any other town in 
 Lower Canada, The North-west merchants live 
 in a superior style to the rest of the inhabitants 
 and keep very expensive tables. They are friendly 
 and hospitable to strangers, who are introduced 
 to them, and whom the) entertain in a sumptuous 
 manner. The envious, however, consider their 
 apparent generosity as flowing more from pride 
 and ostentation than from real bospitality, and 
 they have often been the subjects of newspaper 
 
74 PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. 
 
 criticism. It is of very little consequence, in my 
 opinion, what influences a man to treat his ac- 
 quaintance well, so long as he intends nothing to 
 their prej udice. We liave all of us some pec uliar mo- 
 tive for our actions, which, if strictly scrutinized, 
 would not, perhaps, he always found disinterested. 
 
 A public assembly is held at Holmes's tavern 
 during the winter, and with private dances, tea 
 and card parties, and cariole excursions out of 
 town, form the whole amusements of that season. 
 In summer, pleasure gives way to business, which 
 at that period of bustle, affords full employment 
 to all. A few excursions, and dinner parties in 
 the country, occur sometimes to relieve the weight 
 of mercantileaffairs. Concerts are very rare, and 
 never take place unless the regimental bands are 
 in town. The inhabitants, like those of Quebec 
 and Three Rivers, possess very little knowledge of 
 the polite and liberal accomplishments necessary 
 to form the complete lady or gentleman. They 
 however labour under the disadvantage of the 
 want of proper masters, and institutions to instruct 
 and complete them in the higher branches of edu- 
 cation ; yet it is, perhaps, their fault that they 
 have them not, for without proper reward and: 
 encouragement they never can have them. 
 
 Ship-building is successfully carried on by Mr. 
 Munn, who generally launches two or three ves- 
 sels from *200 to 500 tons every year. The ship- 
 wrights are mostly Europeans, and I one day, 
 
SHIP-BUILDING. , ?5 
 
 while viewing a vessel on the stocks, perceived 
 among them one of the men who had ran away 
 from my uncle's service. He had been hired as a 
 house carpenter by us, but the ship-builders in 
 Canada are not very scrupulous who they employ, 
 so they can find men to handletheaxe well. They 
 have of late taken French Canadians as appren- 
 tices, who are highly praised for their capacity. 
 This is a very good plan, for European ship-buil- 
 ders have very high wages,, and are besides a 
 very drunken dissolute set. The Canadian work* 
 men, on the contrary, are sober, steady men, and 
 attend regularly to their work from break of day 
 to sun-set. 
 
 One of the greatest errors committed by persons 
 who go to Canada to settle, is the taking g$ Euro- 
 pean servants with them ; for experience has fully 
 proved in innumerable instances, one of which, 
 my uncle's case, is a recent example, that no ob- 
 ligations whatever are sufficient to ensure a mas* 
 ter the labour of his European servants, more es- 
 pecially if he is in advance to them for any part 
 of their wages. The inducements to leave him, in 
 such cases, become so great, that the servant must 
 be more than commonly virtuous, or have strong 
 motives for staying, if he does not break his en- 
 gagement. This complaint is so general at Que- 
 bec, that little or nothing is done to remedy the 
 grievance, which seems to set the laws at defiance : 
 yet the magistrates have sufficient power to pu- 
 
'ID USEFUL HINTS. 
 
 nish both masters and servants ; but they seldom 
 or never srive a 'satisfactory decision in cases where 
 the latter are to blame. Whether this arises from 
 an ill-judged lenity, or from the persuasive elo- 
 quence of Mr. K — , an eminent advocate for 
 disaffected servants, they best can tell. 
 
 I have heard that of twenty servants brought 
 out by Lord Dorchester some years back, when 
 Governor-general of Canada, not one remained 
 with him at the end of a twelvemonth. Many 
 other persons have been served in the same way, 
 and my uncle himself lost eighteen. One very 
 great mischief is occasioned by the low price of 
 spirits, particularly rum, which may be obtained 
 for less than five shillings a gallon. Hence few of 
 the lovfcsr order of Europeans who arrive at Que- 
 bec, but become drunkards, in a very short time, 
 and drunkenness never fails to precipitate them 
 into worse vices. If they have a little money, it is 
 soon squandered, either in liquor with their dis- 
 solute companions, or in going to law with their 
 masters, in which case it seldom fails to find its 
 way into the pocket of the beforementioncd advo- 
 cate, and the account is generally wound up by 
 some crimp for the shipping, or recruiting Ser- 
 jeant for the army. 
 
 The scarcity of hands for labour is certainly 
 considerable, yet by no means so great as is gene- 
 rally represented ; it is therefore more to the in? 
 (crest of gentlemen settling in Canada, to engage 
 
MARKEtS. 77 
 
 the native artizans, than to take cut men who will 
 never remain in their service. The French me- 
 chanics and farmers may be, and indeed are, 
 greatly inferior in abilities to Europeans ; but 
 they are superior to them in sobriety, industry, 
 and civility. The French Canadians, however, 
 have great ingenuity, and it only requires cultiva- 
 tion to render them excellent artists. Some cle- 
 ver American mechanics are also frequently to be 
 met with in Canada, particularly mill-wrights ; 
 these people are sometimes steady workmen, but 
 they will often give their employers- the slip in the 
 middle of their work, if they happen to meet with 
 a more lucrative offer from another person. 
 
 I am sorry to say that the practice of enticing 
 away each other's servants, is but too much the 
 custom in Canada, and it is owing as much to 
 this want of good faith, that strangers on their ar- 
 rival find it so difficult to retain their servants, as 
 to any other cause. We ourselves unfortunately 
 experienced this treatment with some of our peo- 
 ple, to whom very flattering offers were made im- 
 mediately on their arrival, and inconsequence of 
 which, they ran away from our service, arid were 
 employed by ship-builders and others, in spite of 
 a law to the contrary. 
 
 The markets of Montreal a re plentifully sup plied 
 with all kinds of provisions, which are sold much 
 cheaper than at Quebec crThree Rivers; large sup- 
 plies are brought in every winter from the States^ 
 
78 TURNPIKE ROAD. 
 
 particularly cod-fish, which is packed in ice and 
 conveyed in sleighs from Boston. Hay and wood 
 are sold in the Place d'Armes. Two newspapers 
 are printed weekly at Montreal, the Gazette, and 
 Canadian Courant, both on Monday afternoon. 
 
 From Montreal to La Chine is a turnpike road, 
 about seven or eight miles in length. This is the 
 only turnpike in Lower Canada, and the road is 
 not very well kept up for the toll that is demand- 
 ed ; fourpence is charged for a horse, and eight- 
 pence for a horse and chaise ; but for a subscrip- 
 tion of one or two dollars per annum, an inhabit- 
 ant of the island may be exempted from the 
 daily toll. A great traffic is maintained on this 
 road by the carters who carry all the goods for 
 the upper country, from Montreal to La Chine, 
 where they are put on board batteaux. 
 
 For the first mile or two out of town, the road 
 passes partly over a common, which is beginning 
 to be inclosed and cultivated. After passing 
 through the turnpike, the road proceeds up a 
 steep ascent, and continues along a lofty height 
 for nearly four miles, when it descends rather 
 abruptly, and passes again over a low, flat coun- 
 try, until it reaches La Chine, which is situated 
 along the shore of the river St. Lawrence. The 
 road is lined with the houses and farms of the 
 Habitans, and along the height the eye wanders 
 with pleasure over an extensive, cultivated val- 
 ley, bordered by the St. Lawrence, which dis- 
 
VISIT TO LA CHINE. 79 
 
 appears amidst the thick foliage of the trees, 
 while a small serpentine stream meanders prettily 
 through the fields. This low country was, ages 
 ago, probably, a part of the river, and the high 
 land, along which the turnpike road now runs, 
 was most likely the boundary within which it 
 was confined. Its flat and marshy soil affords 
 some foundation for this conjecture. There is 
 another road to La Chine which winds along the 
 shore of the St. Lawrence, and passes the rapids 
 of St. Louis, situated about half way. It is about 
 a league longer than the turnpike road. I was 
 told that a few years ago, before the road was 
 made, it was nearly a day's journey for carts to go 
 from Montreal to La Chine. The road is cer- 
 tainly now in a better condition, but there is still 
 room for improvement. 
 
 La Chine is delightfully situated upon the 
 banks of the river. It is of considerable extent, 
 in consequence of the houses being built in the 
 same straggling manner as the other small set- 
 tlements in Canada, where the dwellings are 
 regulated by the situations of the farms, and are 
 seldom formed into an assemblage of houses laid 
 out in streets. All the goods and merchandize 
 sent to Upper Canada, are embarked at this vil- 
 lage, to which they are carted from Montreal, as 
 the rapids of St. Louis prevent vessels from pas- 
 sing u p the river from that city. The goods are 
 put on board large batteaux, or flat bottomed 
 
80 IN MAN DEPARTMENT. 
 
 boats, each of which is worked by four men and 
 a guide, who make use of paddles and long poles, 
 as the depth, or rapidity of the current requires. 
 A gentleman of the name of Grant, who resides 
 at La Chine, is the owner of the batteaux, and 
 shipper of the goods for the merchants, who pay 
 him freight for the transportation of their mer- 
 chandize. Upwards of 50 batteaux are employed 
 in the voyage to and from Kingston, on Lake 
 Ontario, in the course of the year. Mr. Grant 
 also ships off the goods for the North-west mer- 
 chants in large bark canoes belonging to the 
 Company ; these goods which consist of provi- 
 sions, cloth, blankets, fowling-pieces, powder and 
 shot, and other articles for the Indian trade, are 
 exchanged for furs. 
 
 Between 40 and 50 canoes, deeply laden with 
 the above articles, and navigated by Canadian 
 and Indian voyageurs, are d is pitched in the 
 course of the spring from La Chine, and proceed 
 up the Outaou ah, or Grand River, through 
 rapids, and over portages or carrying places, into 
 Lake Nipissing. From thence they pass through 
 Riviere des Francois rrito lake Huron, and ar- 
 rive at the Company's post in Lake Superior, 
 from whence the goods arc afterwards transported 
 to the Lake of the Woods, and distributed to the 
 several trading posts, far in the interior of the 
 Continent. 
 
 The government stores belonging to the In- 
 
INDIAN DEPARTMENT. 81 
 
 dian department, are kept at La Chine, under the 
 care of Mr. Hawdon the store-keeper general. 
 About 30 batteaux, laden with Indian presents, 
 are dispatched every spring to Kingston, York, 
 Niagara, aud other posts belonging to the king 
 in Upper Canada, as far as Lake St. Joseph's, 
 near Michillimakinak ; where store-keepers and 
 clerks reside, for the delivery of the presents in 
 their respective districts. The presents are de- 
 livered out of the stores at La Chine, by an order 
 from Sir John Johnson, who is the superintendant- 
 general of the Indian department. They consist 
 chiefly of the following articles: — Scarlet and 
 blue cloth ; strouds; Molton; blankets of various 
 sizes; Irish linen; flannel; Russia and English 
 sheeting ; hats ; laced coats ; rifles, and fowling 
 pieces ; powder, shot, and flints ; swords, spears, 
 harpoons, hooks, and fishing lines ; copper and 
 tin kettles ; vermilion ; looking glasses ; pins, 
 needles, tapes, thread, &c. ; scissars, knives, nests 
 of trunks, boxes, &c. 
 
 In the stores, I also saw upwards of twenty 
 pieces of fine French cambric, a quantity of tea, 
 Jew's harps, razors, &c. the remains of former 
 requisitions, but which are not now delivered 
 out. Articles of that description seldom or never 
 reached the Indians, being much oftener used by 
 the store-keepers and agents of the Indian depart- 
 ment for their own families. The great abuses 
 which formerly existed in that branch of the pub- 
 
 TOL. II. G 
 
82 CACHENONAGA. 
 
 lie service, were shameful, but are now greatly 
 abolished. The former enormous requisitions- 
 are also reduced to little more than 10,000?. for 
 Upper and Lower Canada ; and together with 
 the salaries of the officers and agents of the Indian 
 department the expenses do not amount to half 
 the sum stated by Mr. Weld in 1796, which he 
 computed at one hundred thousand pounds. 
 
 Opposite to La Chine, stands the Indian village 
 of Cachenonaga. Its inhabitants, who amount 
 in all to 1200, are descended from the Agniers, 
 one of the Iroquois nations, who, though bitter 
 enemies to the French, were, by the indefatigable 
 zeal and abilities of the Jesuits, partly civilized, 
 and converted to the Christian faith. They 
 were originally settled at La Prairie, but the land 
 producing very indifferent maize, they removed 
 to Sault St. Louis, and from thence to the situa- 
 tion they now occupy, 
 
 I took the opportunity during my stay at La 
 Chine, of visiting these Indians, and in company 
 with Mr. Hawdon, went over to the village. 
 We saw very few men, but plenty of squaws, 
 who were dressed in their dirty blankets, lugging 
 their children about, or sitting down on the 
 ground in groups, laughing and chatting with 
 each other. Idleness reigned in every part of the 
 Tillage, nor could I find either man, woman, or 
 child, employed at any sort of work, though I 
 looked into many of their houses. Their habi- 
 
INDIAN DOLL. 83 
 
 tations are dirty, miserable, and destitute of fur- 
 niture ; and the whole village, which is divided 
 into two or three streets, presents a most forlorn 
 and wretched appearance. Among some of the 
 groups of women, I noticed three or four Euro- 
 pean children with light hair, whom they were 
 nursing, and was informed that they frequently 
 adopted the natural offspring of the white peo- 
 ple, whenever the latter abandoned them. 
 
 Such instances, I think, may serve to shew the 
 fondness of the Indian women for children, and 
 indeed no mothers can appear more tender of their 
 offspring than they do. It is an amiable trait in 
 their character, and must make the Europeans 
 blush for that false pride and inhumanity, which 
 induce them to forsake their illegitimate chil- 
 dren. 
 
 We saw several handsome Indian women, with 
 fine black hair, and light olive complexions, 
 tinged with the bloom of health, who only re- 
 quired a becoming dress, instead of their dirty 
 blankets, to make them rival our European fe- 
 males. I observed one of their little girls, about 
 seven years old, with something in her arms, 
 which she seemed to be nursing ; and was going 
 up to look at it, when she ran away, and hid it 
 under her blanket as if ashamed : upon which, 
 I ran after her, and found it was a do//, placed 
 upon a little cradle-board, and bandaged up with 
 little pieces of coloured cotton, in exact imita- 
 
 g2 
 
Sir MR. VANFELSON. 
 
 tion of flie manner in which the Indian women 
 nurse their children. I call it the cradle board, 
 because it serves that purpose, when the child is 
 restless, far better than an English cradle; it be- 
 ing the practice to suspend it by a string from 
 the branch of a tree, or the top of their wigwam, 
 and swing it backwards and forwards till the 
 child falls asleep. 
 
 We called on Mr. Vanfelson the cure of the 
 village, under whose care the Indians are placed. 
 He lives in a tolerable house adjoining a small 
 chapel, in which service is regularly performed 
 by him on Sundays and festivals. The Indians, 
 who happen to be at home, attend with their 
 wives and children, and behave in a very respect- 
 ful and becoming manner. The women, particu- 
 larly, are solemn and devout in their deport- 
 ment, and are strongly attached to the Holy Vir- 
 gin ; for whom they seem to have a remarkable 
 veneration. They have good voices, and sing 
 their Indian hymns in an agreeable manner. 
 While we were viewing the chapel, one of the 
 squaws had occasion to pass through it to the 
 cure's house: she went up to the altar, crossed 
 herself, curtsied, and passed on. 
 
 Mr. Vanfelson is a most respectable young 
 priest, and attends, with much diligence, to the 
 improvement of the Indians. His brother at 
 Quebec is an advocate of some eminence. In the 
 course of our walk through the village, we met 
 
CHEVALIER LORIMIER. 85 
 
 the Chevalier Lorimier, an old French gentle- 
 man, who resides as interpreter for government; 
 who allows him 100/. per annum. He was an 
 officer in the French army, at the conquest of 
 the country; and in the American war com- 
 manded a detachment of Indians; with whom 
 he assimilated himself so closely in manners, that 
 he gained their affections, and married one of 
 their women. At her death, he married a French 
 lady of La Chine, who also died a few years af- 
 ter, when such was his partiality for the Indians, 
 that he married another of their women, with 
 whom he now lives : by his three wives, he has 
 had several children. One of them, a young man, 
 carries on the fur trade among the Indians, in 
 the vicinity of Lake Tomisconing. Early in 
 1808, young Lorimier and his partner, set out 
 with a party of Indians from Cachenonaga, upon 
 their annual traffic. By the time they arrived 
 in the interior of the country, their provisions 
 grew short, in consequence of the ravenous ap- 
 petites of the Indians, who had secretly con- 
 sumed more than their allowance. It being the 
 month, of February, the snow still on the ground, 
 and they several hundred miles from any settle- 
 ment, they were, in a short time, reduced to ab- 
 solute starvation. The Indians, of whom there 
 were nearly twenty, all perished in a few days ; 
 and only Lorimier and his partner were left. 
 They travelled as fast as they were able, through 
 
86 PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE. 
 
 the woods, to the nearest post ; hallooing as 
 they went along, hoping to meet with some 
 straggling parties of Indians, who might be hunt- 
 ing. For seven days these unfortunate men sub- 
 sisted only upon their shot belts, which they 
 moistened with soap, and sucked. At length, 
 they were so much exhausted, that they could pro- 
 ceed no further, and laid themselves down, fully 
 expecting never to rise again alive. They still en- 
 deavoured, as well as they were able, to shout 
 and halloo, but not a human being presented 
 himself to their longing eyes, in that dreary and 
 immeasurable wilderness. How long they laid 
 in that famished state, they knew not, as they 
 were insensible when discovered by a hunting 
 party of Indians and Canadians ; who, by mere 
 accident, passed the very spot where they lay. 
 It was a most providential circumstance, for they 
 had never heard the shouts of Lorimier and his 
 companion ; yet when they were restored to their 
 senses, they could not be convinced but they 
 were hallooing very loud, so much were they ex- 
 hausted by their sufferings. Lorimier arrived at 
 Three Rivers about six months afterwards, while 
 I was in that town : he had perfectly recovered, 
 but his partner was obliged to remain behind, 
 being too weak to perform the journey. Not- 
 withstanding their hardships, I understand they 
 procured, that season, above ?00/. worth of furs. 
 The Indians of Cachenonaga, cultivate a little 
 
THE IROQUOIS CHIEF, CAPTAIN JOHN. 87 
 
 com, and breed hogs and poultry; but the prin- 
 cipal part of them subsist upon hunting and 
 fishing. A chief resides among them, called 
 Captain Thomas : his house is but little better 
 furnished than the rest ; and he is a very drunken 
 character. The old Iroquois chief, Captain John, 
 of the Mohawk village, in Upper Canada, whom 
 I have before mentioned, played a very cunning 
 trick upon his countrymen at Cachenonaga, when 
 he came down to La Chine to receive his pre- 
 sents from Mr. Hawdon. He was over at Cache- 
 nonaga very often, where he frequently got 
 drunk with his friend Captain Thomas, and 
 other Indians. His son Peter, a line lad, was re- 
 peatedly going after him, to get him away from 
 their company ; but old John would continually 
 give him the slip. We afterwards found that 
 he had practised a curious scheme, to obtain 
 rum from his countrymen. He had given them 
 pieces of old letters, pretending that they were 
 orders from Sir John Johnson, upon the store- 
 keeper general, for goods, which they might re- 
 ceive if they would give him some rum. The 
 simpletons took the bits of paper, which they 
 could not read, and gave the sly old chief a 
 quantity of liquor, in proportion to the value of 
 the articles which he said they were to have. A 
 few days after, some of thein came over to Mr. 
 Hawdon for hats, blankets, and fowling-pieces, 
 and were much disappointed, when they found 
 
8S ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN JOHN. 
 
 themselves so completely duped; though the In- 
 dian delights in a stratagem I 
 
 Captain John is about sixty years old. In the 
 American war, he served under Sir John John- 
 ton, and was the. most active and courageous/ 
 Indian leader in the British service : like most of 
 his countrymen, he presents a singular com- 
 pound of good and bad qualities ; though I be- 
 lieve the latter arises only from his fondness for 
 ardent spirits. He is strongly attached to our 
 government, from whom he receives captain's 
 half-pay and allowances, besides considerable 
 presents every year for himself and family. He 
 called upon us one day, during my stay at Mr. 
 Hawdon's : we had just dined, and the wine was 
 on the table. Mr. Hawdon invited him to stay 
 and take some ; to which he readily consented . 
 t( My son/' says he, as he tasted the Madeira 
 wine, which, from its colour, he at first sight 
 took for rum, "have you not got something 
 stronger I". Mr. Hawdon replied in the nega- 
 tive, not being willing to encourage him in 
 drinking spirits. John, after making a wry face, 
 drank it off: it, however, warmed him, I sup- 
 pose, more than he expected ; for he began to 
 push the bottle about pretty freely, and got into 
 a very good humour. He then entertained us 
 with an account of some of his campaigns, dur- 
 ing the American war ; and of the singular man- 
 ner in which he had both his arms broke. He 
 
ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN JOHN. 89 
 
 was employed with other Indians at Fort Stan- 
 wix. One day, he and a party, among whom 
 was Captain Brandt, set out upon an expedition 
 through the woods : John got drunk, and fell 
 asleep ; during which, Brandt and the rest of the 
 party left him. No sooner was John awake, 
 than he fell in with a party of Americans, who 
 had been pillaging a camp ; he immediately 
 dashed in amongst them, sword in hand, thinking 
 his party must be near him. The American of- 
 ficer wishing to spare him, would not suffer the 
 soldiers to fire ; and ordered them to secure him 
 without injury. John, however, continued to 
 lay about him on all sides, with the fury of a 
 madman, setting up the war whoop, and shouting 
 for his party to join him. The officer was 
 therefore dbliged to order his men to fire, and 
 John was immediately shot through both his 
 arms, which fell useless by his side. He was 
 then secured, and two men left to guard him, 
 while the rest marched to a fort in the neigh- 
 bourhood. By this time the chief had recovered 
 himself, and the fumes of the liquor had evapo- 
 rated; finding, therefore, that his legs were free, 
 though his arms were of no use to him, being 
 both broken, he took to his heels, and bounded 
 into the thickest part of the forest, with the nim- 
 bleiiess of the deer. The two soldiers fired, but 
 missed him ; and the next day, John arrived at 
 the English camp, where he got his wounds 
 
90 ADVENTURES OF CAPTAIN JOHN, 
 
 cured, and soon recovered, to take signal venge- 
 ance on his enemies. He then related to us 
 another anecdote, which drew tears from his 
 eyes, as he spoke of the narrow escape which he 
 and a British officer, with a party of Indians each, 
 had of destroying one another by mistake. The 
 British officer happened to be dressed in green, 
 like some of the Americans ; and while skirmish- 
 ing in the woods, the two parties came suddenly 
 upon each other. John and the officer immedi- 
 ately presented their rifles, and were on the 
 point of firing, when the latter fortunately called 
 out, " Is that Captain John }" He was answered 
 ia tho affirmative just in time to save their lives; 
 another moment would have been too late, for as 
 the old chief declared, while the big tear rolled 
 down his sun-burnt cheek, " Both must have died ! 
 Bothweregood shots." Captain Ferguson of the 
 Canadian feneibles assured me, that what Cap- 
 tain John had related of himself, was strictly 
 correct; and he added, that the old chief could 
 never speak of the latter circumstance without 
 tears, when he reflected how near he was shoot- 
 ing his friend, and being shot by him. 
 
 Captain John declared to us, that he suffered 
 uncommon hardships during that war, often 
 lying on the bare ground in winter-time, with no 
 other covering than an old ragged shirt, with 
 which, in wet weather, he was also obliged to 
 keep his rifle dry. John is said to have been, 
 
LOVE AND REVENGE. 91 
 
 when young, the handsomest,, and most warlike 
 chief in the British service ; he boasted of the 
 number of American officers whom he had 
 slain; and concluded with saying, " Ah, my son, 
 I long to smell gunpowder again, before I die !" 
 His son Peter dresses in the English style, and in 
 good clothes ; he speaks English well, and bears 
 an excellent character : except his complexion, 
 he has very little of the Indian about him. Cap- 
 tain John has also a daughter, who resides with 
 him at the Mohawk village near Kingston. She 
 dresses in the Indian style ; but always in the 
 best manner, with silver ornaments, and fine scar- 
 let cloth. She is said to be very handsome, and 
 some years ago, attracted the attention of a Mr. 
 C— — , who had the delivery of the Indian pre- 
 sents, at La Chine. She was attached to him, 
 and expected he would have married her ; under 
 that impression, she sacrificed her virtue, at the 
 shrine of love. Whether or not he promised 
 her marriage, I have never heard ; but after she 
 was brought to bed of a child, by him, finding 
 that he would not comply with that ceremony, 
 she armed herself with a brace of pistols; and 
 for a long time, watched for him at La Chine, 
 threatening to take his life, for his perfidy to her. 
 He thought proper to keep out of the way, till 
 her anger cooled, and she returned to Upper Ca- 
 nada. Her unfaithful lover died a short time 
 after, in the Hotel Dieu of Montreal, having lost 
 
92 ROMAN CATHOLIC FUNERALS. 
 
 his senses ; in consequence, it is said, of having 
 been, (as he thought) accessary to the death of 
 an officer of the 6th regiment, who was killed in 
 a duel, and to whom he had been second. The 
 officer was shot in the knee, and the doctors 
 could not tell whether any {>art of the cloth had 
 entered with the ball : some were of opinion that 
 it bad, and others that it had not; while they 
 disputed, a mortification ensued, and the patient 
 
 died 1 Mr. C , looking upon himself as a 
 
 participator in the melancholy event, which had 
 deprived him of his friend, took it so much to 
 heart, that he became deranged in his mind, ancl 
 died shortly after. 
 
 The post road of Lower Canada extends nearly 
 to the line, between the two provinces, about 
 forty miles from La Chine : but the road from 
 thence to Kingston, in Upper Canada, is ex- 
 tremely bad in places; being through swamps 
 and morasses in the woods, which render it fre- 
 quently impassable. In winter time, when co- 
 vered with snow, it is an excellent road ; but in 
 summer, travellers generally proceed by water, 
 from La Chine, in the batteaux, which are set- 
 ting off almost every week. 
 
 I remained at Dillon's hotel, Montreal, about 
 a week, waiting the arrival of a vessel at St. 
 John's, to take me across Lake Cham plain. It 
 was early in November, and the snow fell in 
 abundance for two or three dam; during which. 
 
ROMAN CATHOLIC FUNERALS. 93 
 
 the carioles were driven in the streets. Several 
 Homaa Catholic funerals passed before the door 
 of the hotel, during my stay: they were more 
 or less splendid, according to the circumstances 
 of the deceased. The first I saw, was but in- 
 differently attended; at the head marched an 
 old man, in his common habitant dress, carrying 
 something like a pestle and mortar; next to him 
 was a little boy, dressed in a black hood or cowl 
 over a white surplice, which partly covered a 
 black cloth petticoat ; he carried a wooden cross 
 about four times taller than himself: after him 
 came the priest, dressed in the same style, with 
 the addition of two long pieces of white cloth, 
 edged with black, each of which, terminated at 
 the bottom with a square piece marked with a 
 cross, and hung down before him, from hi* 
 shoulders. The body was supported by four 
 men, and followed by two or three, people, in 
 their usual dress : the coffin was of common 
 deal, not painted, and partly covered with a 
 shabby pall. 
 
 The next funeral which I saw, was of a supe- 
 rior description ; and was attended by four 
 priests, ten boys, one beadle, and three men, car- 
 rying a wooden box, and wax tapers : the coffin, 
 however, was of common deal, unpainted; but 
 supported on a bier, and carried by four men ; an 
 indifferent pall was thrown over it, and four men 
 on each side, carried wax tapers : they were, I 
 
94 LEAVE MONTREAL. 
 
 suppose, in the capacity of pall bearers ; but 
 neither them, nor the mourners behind, were 
 dressed in any other than their usual cloaths. 
 The priests and boys, were dressed as before ; 
 but, instead of a large wooden cross, they now 
 carried a silver one, fixed upon a long black staff. 
 
 It was a curious circumstance, that while the 
 snow was falling in the streets, I was plagued 
 in-doors with the flies. These troublesome com- 
 panions are seldom driven away by the cold in 
 Canada, being kept alive by the heat of the stoves. 
 From this, it may be easily perceived, how little 
 the inhabitants suffer from the severity of their 
 climate. 
 
 A sloop having at length arrived at St. John's, 
 the master came to Montreal to procure freight ; 
 upon which I took the opportunity of engaging a 
 passage in his vessel, to Skenesborough. 
 
JOURNEY TO NEW YORK. 95 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 
 Journey to New York — Leave Montreal — La 
 Prairie — St. John's— Independent Whig — Fel- 
 low Travellers — Sloop Dolphin— David — • 
 Crossing the Line — Merman seen in the Richliea 
 River — English Negotiators — Isle au Noix — 
 Anecdote of a Soldier — Cumberland Head — 
 Canoe upset — Ducking — Shelburne Bay — 
 
 American Hospitality Lake Champlain — 
 
 Crown Point — Accident — Floating Ice — Old 
 Ti, or Ticonderoga — Gale of Wind— Wood 
 Creek — Run the Vessel Ashore — Excursion 
 through the Woods — Whitehall — Capture of 
 General Burgoyne — Account of Saratoga — 
 American Stage Waggon. 
 
 On the afternoon of the 10th November, I left 
 Montreal in company with the American cap- 
 tain, and crossed over in a canoe to Longueil, 
 which lies on the south-east shore of the St. Law- 
 rence, nearly opposite the city. There we hired 
 a calash, and proceeded about nine miles up the 
 river to La Prairie de la Madelaine, a small village 
 which derived its name from the extensive meadow 
 land in its vicinity, dedicated to Mary Magdalen. 
 
96 la puaikie. 
 
 This place contains about 100 houses,, a church, 
 and two or three inns kept by Americans ; but 
 the town is inhabited mostly by French Cana- 
 dians. It is the medium of communication be- 
 tween Montreal and St. John's ; and of the com- 
 merce carried on between the United States and 
 Lower Canada. 
 
 We slept at La Prairie that night, and next 
 morning set off for St. JohnY, in an American 
 stage drawn by three horses. Though I was still 
 in Canada, yet the novelty of such a vehicle, 
 made m« fancy myself already in the States,, and 
 the illusion was increased, by meeting with Ame- 
 rican inn-keepers who spoke English, and in 
 every thing else presented a great contrast to the 
 maitres des postes on the other side of the river. 
 About seven miles from La Prairie we stopped at 
 an American tavern to breakfast, and for a quar- 
 ter of a dollar were plentifully supplied with 
 beef-steaks, eggs, and tea ; and, to add to the 
 pleasure of our dejeune, were attended by a very 
 pretty girl. 
 
 A few Habitant houses and farms are scattered 
 along the road ; but a great part is yet unculti- 
 vated. Within two or three miles of St. John's, 
 the road reaches the Richlieu river, and bending 
 to the right, proceeds along its bank until it ap- 
 proaches that village. The country on the east 
 or left bank of the river is unsettled, and covered 
 with thick woods on the other side ; along the 
 
sT. John's. 97 
 
 r6ad, towards the village, there are a few indif- 
 ferent farms ; it has the appearance of a new coun- 
 try, though it is upwards of seventy years since 
 the fort at St. John's was constructed. We ar- 
 rived at St. John's about one o'clock, and having 
 been recommended to Watson's tavern, I put up 
 there till the wind was favourable for the vessel 
 to sail. 
 
 The village Of St. John consists only of one 
 short street of houses, most of which are stores 
 and inns. Among the latter, Cheeseman and 
 Watson's are the best. They are Americans, 
 and the former keeps the best inn at La Prairie ; 
 he is also owner of most of the stages which run 
 between the two places. Accommodations at 
 both taverns, are, however, very indifferent, 
 though superior to what is afforded at the Cana- 
 dian post-houses. There is a custom-house in this 
 village, where the exports to and from the States 
 are registered, and the duties paid. It stands 
 in the fort, which is situated about two hun- 
 dred yards from the village. The latter contains 
 a magazine, a few pieces of cannon, and a detach- 
 ment of soldiers; but it is altogether incapable 
 of effectual defence. The fortification consists 
 of a sort of earthen redoubt, thrown up around 
 a few houses and a magazine, and strengthened 
 with cedar picketing. 
 
 I had waited two days at St. John's, during 
 which, I was prevented going out of doors in 
 
 VOL. II. H 
 
9$ INDEPENDENT WHIG. 
 
 consequence of the- wet weather and bad roads; 
 when I was informed that the vessel in which I 
 w r as to have sailed, had taken advantage of a fa- 
 vourable breeze and left the town in the middle 
 of the night. I was much vexed at this news, as 
 it was uncertain when another vessel would come 
 in, and it was expected that the lake would be 
 frozen over in a few days. I was also astonished 
 that the captain never came to inform me that he 
 intended to sail, and could not help suspecting 
 that jny landlord had played me a. trick in order 
 to detain me longer in his house. 
 
 I was therefore obliged to remain three days 
 longer in imprisonment at this miserable village. 
 I amused myself with reading an old book which 
 the landlord lent me, called the Independent 
 Whig, published in 1720, and containing much 
 satire and invective against the high church or 
 Tory party, and the ministers of the established 
 religion. This book was formerly much read in 
 the English colonies of America, and tended, 
 greatly to assist that spirit of independence and 
 republicanism, which afterwards led to the Re- 
 volution. 
 
 On Sunday afternoon a small sloop came in^ 
 from Burlington, which I understood was imme- 
 diately engaged by three gentlemen at Cheese* 
 man's tavern, to take them to Skenesborough. 
 While 1 was preparing to go down to the wharf, 
 the master of the vessel called upon me, and I inr 
 
FELLOW TRAVELLERS. 99 
 
 stantly engaged a passage to the same place. He 
 was to discharge his cargo that afternoon, and to 
 sail at night, if the wind became favourable. A 
 Mr. Welch soon after arrived at Watson's, and 
 as he was going to New York he also took his 
 passage in the same vessel ; and it was agreed 
 that the captain sheuld call for us when he was 
 ready to start. So anxious was I not to miss this 
 opportunity of quitting a place which had now be- 
 come completely disagreeable to me, that I would 
 not go into bed, but merely laid myself down in my 
 cloaths. My precautions were, however, useless, 
 as it was not till nine o'clock the next morning 
 that the veessel was ready to sail. Having en- 
 tered our names at the guard-house, we went on 
 board, and immediately got under weigh with a 
 light breeze. 
 
 I was agreeably surprized to find, that one of 
 the three gentlemen who had engaged the vessel, 
 was Mr. Storrow, an American merchant, whom 
 I had met at Dillon's hotel : he was returning to 
 Boston by the way of New York, in order to ar- 
 range his affairs previous to his opening a store 
 at Montreal the following spring. The other 
 two gentlemen were his acquaintance : one of 
 them, Mr. Henry Mackenzie of the North-west 
 company, was going to New York, and from 
 thence to England, upon the company's con- 
 cerns : the other was Mr. Lyman a druggist of 
 Montreal. This gentleman was born in the 
 
 h2 
 
100 THE SLOOP DOLPHtft. 
 
 United States, but found h more profitable to re- 
 side m Canada, where he carries on a considerable' 
 trade with his native country. Mr. Welch was 
 going to New York, and from thence to South 
 Carolina to recover some property for a mercantile 
 house at Hull. Thus it fortunately happened 
 we were all bound for the fcame eity, a circum- 
 stance which made me consider the delay I had 
 experienced at St. John's, fn a less unfavourable 
 point of view; forbad I gone in the first vessel, 
 which I afterwards learnt, went no farther tharr 
 Burlington, I should have had to travel upwards- 
 of 400 miles through a strange country by my- 
 self; and those who have been in the habit of 
 travelling in America, will easily conceive the 
 satisfaction I felt in meeting with agreeable com- 
 panions on this journey. 
 
 The sloop in which we were embarked, was a 
 wretched vessel. It had formerly been a regular 
 trader, but being worn out, was laid up for sale 
 at Burlington. It was afterwards bought by 
 four men for 100 dollars, upon condition, that if 
 it was seized by the officers, and condemned as 
 unlit for service, the money was to be returned, 
 Two of the purchasers agreed to navigate her to 
 St. John's with a cargo of butter and cheese, in- 
 tending to return to Burlington with another 
 freight: This was agreed to, and the vessel came 
 in on the Sunday ^ as I before mentioned ; but 
 instead of returning back to Burlington, she was 
 
THE SLOOP DOLPHW; $0} 
 
 engaged by our party to go to Skenesbofough. 
 The offer was tempting, and with several barrels 
 •of potash and butter which they took on board for 
 that place, the voyage was likely to turn out very 
 advantageous, particularly if the vessel was seized 
 on her arrival as they expected; for then, the 
 purchasers would recover their 100 dollars again, 
 and have all the freight and passage money as 
 clear profit. The man who commanded the ves- 
 sel, was called Robert; and the other who acted 
 in the capacity of mate and foremastman, was 
 named David. Neither of them knew much of 
 the navigation of the Lake, even between Bur- 
 lington and St. John's, and were perfectly igno- 
 rant of it from Burlington to Skenesborough 
 which is upwards of 80 miles farther. 
 
 Our prospects, it must be owned, were rather 
 gloomy, We had to cross a lake above 150 i n *** * 
 in leHgth, and in some parts 20 miles in brea» per, 
 in the very worst season of the year, when snow 
 storms happen almost every day, and render the 
 navigation of the lake even more .dangerous than 
 the ocean : added to which, we were in a crazy 
 leaky vessel, without a boat to go ashore in, or a 
 spare rope in case of accident. The sails were 
 in rags, the pumps choked up aod broken; and 
 we were obliged to bale out the water from under 
 the cabin every two hours, with a tin kettle. 
 To increase our difficulties we had two ignorant 
 men to pilot us, who were as little acquainted 
 
•102 
 
 MERMAN, 
 
 with the management of a vessel,, as they were 
 with the navigation of the lake. 
 
 Fortunately for us the weather was fine ; and 
 instead of ruminating upon the dangers we were 
 likely to encounter, we amused ourselves by 
 laughing at the unskilfulness of the captain and 
 his mate, particularly the latter, whose fears, 
 lest the vessel should be upset at every puff of 
 wind, afforded us much diversion. He con- 
 tinually kept fast hold of the peak hallyards, and 
 at every little breeze instantly lowered the peak, 
 exclaiming, ' What an awful wind! It blows 
 nation stout!' The singularity of his expressions 
 and his fears made us laugh very heartily ; and 
 as he was rather a humorous fellow, he took our 
 jokes in good part. 
 
 About two o'clock in the afternoon we crossed 
 a line in latitude 45 north. But as it was only 
 me boundary tint between Canada and the United 
 States, Neptune and his spouse did not conde- 
 scend to pay us a visit. As some incredulous, 
 persons may, however, doubt, that the Richlieu 
 river possesses its gods and goddesses, like the 
 ocean, I shall, for their information, acquaint 
 them, that an ancient French Jesuit missionary, 
 positively declared that he saw a merman in that 
 river, three leagues below Chambly, and has re- 
 corded it in his writings ! Though we received 
 no visit from these marine gentry, yet it will ap- 
 pear, that some of our party paid them a visit ia 
 
ENGLISH NEGOTIATORS. . 103 
 
 the course of the night ; and though the cere- 
 mony of shaving was omitted, yet that of ducking 
 was carried into full effect. 
 
 The houndary line is about 18 miles from St. 
 John's, and passes across the Richlieu river, 
 within a few miles of Lake Champlain. Hence 
 the Canadians are completely shut out from the 
 lake in case of war, and even from the water 
 communication with their own territory in Mis- 
 sisqui bay. The greatest part of this bay lies in 
 Canada, and is thus cut off by this line of de- 
 marcation, so ignorantly or pusillanimously al- 
 lowed by the English negotiators, in the treaty 
 of peace with the American States in 1783. In 
 case of war, the Americans have every advantage 
 over the Canadians, by confining them to the 
 narrow channel of Richlieu river; and the ill 
 effects of it have been already experienced since 
 the embargo, as the rafts of timber were not per- 
 mitted to come out of Missisqui bay, for the 
 purpose of passing down the Richlieu river. The 
 laws however were broken in several instances ; 
 but the parties were liable to fine and imprison- 
 ment. If the line had been drawn across the 
 wide part of Lake Champlain, the Americans 
 could never have stationed their gun boats with 
 such effect, as they did last year in the Richlieu 
 river, by which means they interrupted the com- 
 munication between the two countries by water, 
 and seized great quantities of goods. 
 
104 
 
 ISLE AU NOIX. 
 
 From St. John's to the entrance of the lake, 
 there are scarcely any settlements. Both shores 
 are lined with woods,, consisting chiefly of pines, 
 which grow to a great height. A few straggling 
 log-huts are seen at intervals, but otherwise it is 
 completely in a state of nature. The Isle au 
 Noix is situated near the line. Upon it are the 
 remains of a small fortification, which had been 
 successively occupied by the French, English, 
 and American armies, during the several wars 
 which have occurred in that country. The name 
 of the island used sometimes to be given out for 
 the parole upon those occasions ; and it is related 
 of an English officer during the American war, 
 who, upon being challenged by the sentinel, gave 
 the word, " Isle au Noix," in the true pronun- 
 ciation, but the sentinel refused to let him pass. 
 The officer persisted he was right, and the soldier 
 maintained he was wrong ; till at length the for- 
 mer recollecting himself, cried out " 'IsleofNox.'* 
 — "Pass," said the soldier ; "you have hit it 
 at last /" 
 
 The weather, though clear and dry, was ex- 
 tremely cold and frosty ; and we had nothing 
 to make a fire in, but an old broken pitch-pot, 
 which could barely hold the wood. Our dinner 
 consisted of some cold boiled beef and tongue, 
 which we brought with us from St. John's, and 
 there being some potatoes on board, we boiled 
 them in a large iron tea-kettle. We appcopn 
 
CUMBERLAND HEAD. 105 
 
 ated it to that use, as it was not wanted to boil 
 water for tea; having none of the requisites for 
 that meal on board. About five in the afternoon 
 we passed Windmill Point, and entered the lake. 
 We kept as close as possible to the shore; the 
 captain being obliged to report his vessel at the 
 custom-house, on Cumberland-head. There 
 being little wind, the sloop glided smoothly 
 through the water, and as the evening closed in, 
 the moon favoured us with her borrowed lijrht, 
 and enabled our unskilful mariners to avoid the 
 craggy rocks which, in many places, line the 
 shore. Some of us now wrapped ourselves up 
 in buffalo robes, or great coats, and laid down 
 in the cabin, more as a shelter from the cold 
 frosty air, than to procure repose. One or two 
 remained upon deck, for there were not births 
 enough for the whole of the party, having two 
 Americans on board, whom we were to put 
 ashore near the custom-house. 
 
 About midnight the vessel arrived off Cumber- 
 land-head, upon the hearing of which, we all 
 went upon deck. Being unwilling to cast anchor 
 for the short time we had to stay at this place, 
 we were obliged to run the vessel upon some 
 rocks near the shore, and not having a boat, we 
 hailed a tavern at some distance, in which we 
 perceived a light. Nearly an hour elapsed be- 
 fore we could make any person hear. At length 
 
106 CANOE UPSET. 
 
 a man came down to the water- side, and being 
 told what we wanted, he soon after came along- 
 side the sloop, in a canoe half full of water. The 
 tin kettle was immediately handed down to him, 
 but his canoe was so very leaky, that the water 
 came in as fast as he bailed it out. The man, 
 therefore, finding his exertions useless, desired 
 the captain to get in, and never mind the water, 
 as it was no great distance to the beach; upon 
 which Robert got in, and was immediately fol- 
 lowed by Mr. Lyman, who wished to get some- 
 thing warm to drink at the tavern ; as it then 
 froze very hard, and our fire had gone out. At 
 the moment, I was almost inclined to accompany 
 him ashore ; but not admiring the idea of sitting 
 nearly knee deep in water, I remained on board, 
 and it was fortunate for me that I did ; for Mr. 
 Lyman and the Captain had scarcely seated them- 
 selves on the gunnel of the canoe, when it upset, 
 and all three were completely ducked. On board 
 we were at first alarmed, as they appeared to 
 be oat of their depth, and were looking about 
 for a rope to throw overboard, when we saw 
 them upon their feet making towards the beach, 
 nearly up to their necks in water. The man who 
 had brought off the canoe, ran home as fast as 
 possible; while Mr. Lyman and the Captain, 
 having dragged the canoe ashore, made the best 
 of their way to the tavern. 
 
 When we found they were safe, we could 
 
SHELBURNE BAY. 107 
 
 harcll j refrain from laughing at the adventure; 
 and the disappointment of the boatman, who 
 little expected that a ducking in the lake at mid- 
 night, in frosty weather, would be his only re- 
 ward. Our tin kettle was lost; for though by 
 the light of the moon we were enabled to see it, 
 we could not fish it up again. Necessity, there- 
 fore, obliged us to resort to our last utensil on 
 board, the tea-kettle, for baling out the water, 
 which seemed to gain very fast upon us, and was 
 nearly up to the cabin floor. About ten minutes 
 after, Mr. Lyman came on board in the canoe, 
 with his cloaths frozen upon him. The people 
 at the tavern had refused both him and Robert 
 admittance; and though they mentioned the 
 accident they had met with, yet were inhumanly 
 ordered away, and not allowed even to dry them- 
 selves. Robert was then obliged to go to the cus- 
 tom-house, drenched to the skin ; and when he 
 afterwards came on board, his cloaths had be- 
 come a solid mass of ice! We had plenty of 
 brandy on board, and with that they contrived 
 to throw off the effects of the cold, so that fortu- 
 nately neither of them received any injury. 
 
 We were nearly two hours before we could get 
 the vessel off the rocks. At length having suc- 
 ceeded, we coasted along the shore, till four 
 o'clock in the mo; ning, when we arrived in a 
 small bay in the township of Shelbume, about 
 (30 miles from St. John's, situate in the widest 
 
108 AMERICAN HOSPITALITY. 
 
 part of the lake. Here we went ashore to the 
 first farm house, at a little distance from the bay. 
 The door was only on the latch, and we entered ; 
 but the people were not yet up. Having awaked 
 the master of the house, and told him our situ- 
 ation, he said we were welcome, and that he 
 would get up immediately. In the mean time 
 we collected some wood ; and putting it upon 
 the live embers in the fire-place, soon made a 
 large fire. This was a most comfortable relief, 
 after the cold night we had passed on board our 
 miserable, sloop. We found that a considerable 
 quantity of snow had fallen in this part of the 
 lake, though we had not met with any during 
 the passage. 
 
 The master of the house, with two of his sons, 
 were soon up, and having put the kettle on the 
 fire, made preparations for breakfast. About six 
 o'clock, his wife and daughters, two pretty littLe 
 girls, came into the kitchen, where we were 
 assembled, and in the course of half an hour we 
 kad the pleasure of sitting down to a substantial 
 American breakfast, consisting of eggs, fried 
 pork, beefsteaks, apple tarts, pickles, cheese, cyder, 
 tea, and toast dipped in melted butter and milk. 
 We were surprized at seeing such a variety of 
 eatables, as it was not a tavern ; but the farmer 
 was a man of property, and carried on the farm- 
 ing business to a considerable extent. He shewed 
 us a great number of cheeses of his own making * 
 
LAKE CHAMPLAIN. I0£ 
 
 *nd for churning butter, he had made a kind of 
 half barrel, with a place for one of his young 
 boys to sit astride, as on horseback. This ma- 
 chine moving up and down, answered the double 
 purpose of a churn for making butter, and a 
 rocking horse for his children. 
 
 Having made an excellent breakfast, we in- 
 quired of our worthy host what we had to pay : 
 he said he should be satisfied with a York shil- 
 ling (about Id. sterling): this, however, we 
 considered too small a sum for the trouble we 
 had given him and his family, and the handsome 
 manner in which he had entertained us ; we 
 therefore gave him a quarter of a dollar each, 
 that being the tavern price for breakfast. "We 
 then took our leave, and went on board our ves- 
 sel, equally pleased with the disinterested hospi- 
 tality of the American farmer, as with the com- 
 fortable refreshment we had received at his 
 house. His conduct formed a striking contrast 
 to that of the tavern-keeper at Cumberland -head, 
 who refused Mr. Lyman and the Captain ad- 
 mittance after their accident. 
 
 Lake Champlain is beautifully diversified with 
 islands, some of which are of great extent and well 
 settled. The Isle of LaMotteliesat the entrance of 
 the Richlieu river, near the tongue of land which 
 forms Missisqur bay to the eastward. But the 
 most extensive is Grande Isle, which is 24 miles 
 in length. In the centre of it is a small isthmus, 
 
110 
 
 LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 
 
 over which the ferry boats are dragged when 
 crossing the lake; but for this narrow piece of 
 land Grande Isle would be divided into two 
 islands. The Americans have changed the French 
 name to North Hero, and another island of con- 
 siderable size, below it, is called the South Hero. 
 The smaller iaies which are scattered in various 
 parts of the lake, add much to the beauty of the 
 scenery ; particularly a cluster of islands called 
 the Brothers, situated at the south end of the 
 lake, a few miles from Burlington. "I was in- 
 formed, that in this part, the lake had no bottom, 
 at least none had yet been found, though sound- 
 ings have been attempted with above 200 fathonv 
 of line. This beautiful piece of water was ori- 
 ginally called Corker's lake, but received its pre- 
 sent name from the celebrated M. de Cham plain, 
 founder of the colony of New France or Canada, 
 of which he was governor. Along the shore of 
 the lake, are to be seen numerous houses ; many 
 of them handsome, and all far superior to those 
 of Canada, with well-cultivated farms, prettily 
 varied by clumps of trees that have been pur- 
 posely left in clearing the land. The west side 
 belongs to the state of New York, and the 
 east to the state of Vermont. The shores are m 
 many places bold and elevated ; in others gently 
 rising from the water's edge, towards the base 
 of lofty mountains, which are very numerous in 
 both states, but particularly in Vermont, which 
 
CROWN POINT. I i I 
 
 may almost be reckoned the Switzerland of the 
 United States. Some of the mountains are 
 said to be nearly 4000 feet above the level of the 
 sea. 
 
 It was about eight o'clock in the morning of 
 the 17th of November when we sailed from Shel- 
 burne bay. The weather was fine, the wind 
 favourable, and blowing pretty fresh, so that we 
 put to sea again (if I may be allowed the expres- 
 sion) in high spirits. The leaks in the vessel, 
 however, increased so fast, that one hand was 
 obliged to be constantly bailing the water out. 
 As this was so very troublesome, and indeed not 
 altogether effectual, I went into the hold among 
 the barrels of potash and kegs of butter, to endea- 
 vour to find out the leak. After a long search, 
 I discovered the principal one close to the keel- 
 son. A small quantity of oakum and a caulking 
 iron happened to be on board, but neither ham- 
 mer nor mallet. I however procured a thick 
 piece of wood, and managed to stop up the leak, 
 in a tolerable manner; but was obliged to be 
 very careful not to hammer too hard, lest I 
 should have forced the iron through the bottom of 
 the vessel, which was completely rotten. After 
 this, we baled the sloop nearly dry, and was but 
 tittle troubled with the smaller leak, during the 
 remainder of the passage. 
 
 About three o'clock in the afternoon, we passed 
 Crown Point, a place much celebrated during the 
 
112 FLOATING id. 
 
 French and American wars. The fortifications', 
 which are now in a dilapidated state, are situated 
 on a point of land, that commands the entrance 
 of South river. The surrounding country is 
 lofty, and covered with thick woods, interspersed 
 with a few settlements. Soon .after our entrance 
 into South river, we ran aground upon a shoal, 
 and could not get the vessel off again, without 
 unlading part of her cargo. We immediately 
 hailed a man on shore, who came off to us in his 
 boat. By his assistance we procured a large 
 scow, and took out several barrels of potash, 
 which lightened the vessel, and caused her to 
 float into deep water, where we anchored, to take 
 in the potash. Having accomplished this, we en- 
 gaged the man to pilot us to Skenesborough, about 
 40 miles further, as we found that the navigation 
 became more intricate, in the narrow channels ; 
 and the captain and his man were perfectly igno- 
 rant of the place. 
 
 The delay we had experienced by this accident, 
 prevented us from getting under weigh till 
 nearly dark : soon after which, it began to blow 
 very hard from the north-west. We also met 
 several shoals of ice, through which the vessel 
 penetrated with difficulty ; and David was 
 continually calling out that it would cut the 
 bows and sink her: and then to keep up our 
 spirits, he related an accident that happened 
 to one of the sloops upon the lake, which in 
 endeavouring to get through the ice, was cut 
 
FLOATING ICE. j t$ 
 
 through the bows, aud sunk a considerable dis- 
 tance from shore, by which several lives were 
 lost. 
 
 The ice which we met with, was not suffi- 
 ciently thick to be dangerous, but it made noise 
 enough to frighten a stouter heart than David's. 
 The wind had also increased to a gale, and though 
 in our favour, yet we did not like to venture into 
 the narrow and intricate channel of Wood Creek 
 before day-light. We therefore came to anchor, 
 by advice of our new pilot, who, by the bye, now 
 seemed to be little better acquainted with the 
 place than the other men : yet as he still pro- 
 fessed to know more than they, we reposed 
 some degree of confidence in him. It was scarce- 
 ly day-light the next morning, when we got the 
 vessel under way. We kept going at an easy 
 rate under the jib, till we reached Ticonderoga, 
 or, as David called it " Old TC This cele- 
 brated place, though now as much neglected as 
 Grown Point, is situate on the western shore, 
 near the entrance of a narrow inlet, leading to 
 Lake St. George ; and commanding the passage 
 across Wood Creek. The fortifications were 
 seated on an angle of land, very steep and lofty, 
 •surrounded on three sides by water, and covered 
 with rocks. They were however commanded by 
 some eminences in their vicinity, and upon which 
 the Americans threw up some works. 
 
 We now saw the danger we should have been 
 
 VOL, II. I 
 
114r TICONDEROGA. 
 
 exposed to, had we passed this place in the night. 
 Two large piles appeared just above water in the 
 middle of the river. They had been sunk by the 
 Americans during the war, when they threw a 
 boom across, to obstruct the passage of the Bri- 
 tish flotilla. The entrance of the creek leading 
 to Skenesborough was also extremely narrow, 
 and intersected with several little islands or shoals, 
 covered with reeds and long grass, which in 
 many places divided the creek into channels barely 
 wide enough for the vessel to pass. Our pilot 
 was often puzzled which channel to take, and con- 
 fessed that it was a long time since he had been 
 that way. A few stakes now and then pointed 
 out the course ; but for the most part we ran it 
 at hazard, and with imminent danger of striking 
 upon some of the shoals. 
 
 The gale continued to increase, and we were 
 obliged to use great precaution in avoiding the 
 numerous islets with which this creek abounds. 
 While we sailed in a straight direction, the wind 
 was directly aft, but being much oftener obliged 
 to make a serpentine course, it was sometimes on 
 our quarter, at other times on our beam, and 
 frequently on the bow. The wind also came in 
 such sudden flaws off the mountains which line 
 the shores of this creek, that the sloop had se- 
 veral narrow escapes from being upset, and was 
 often near on her beam ends. In one of the 
 gusts, the main boom broke away from the stern, 
 
WOOD CREEK.. 1]5 
 
 knocked down the captain and pilot, and car- 
 ried Mr. Storrow's hat overboard. As we had 
 no boat, we could not go after it, and the vessel 
 was going too fast through the water, to put 
 about in such a narrow and confined channel* 
 We were then about ten miles from Skenesbo- 
 rough, and as several of the smaller channels were 
 frozen up, we expected every moment to find our 
 passage obstructed by the ice. 
 
 This narrow river which has very properly 
 received the name of Wood Creek, runs between 
 a chain of lofty mountains, which present a se- 
 ries of hanging woods, and rocks, rising up in 
 ranges one behind the other to an immense 
 height. The whole appears in a complete state 
 of nature covered with immeasurable forests: 
 nor did we meet with more than a few solitary 
 huts during the whole of our passage through 
 this labyrinthian stream. The scenery was indeed 
 sublime, but very forbidding ; and the season of 
 the year by no means tended to soften its aspect. 
 
 About noon we arrived within three miles of 
 Skenesborough, near a bend of the river, when 
 we found our progress suddenly arrested by the 
 ice, which entirely blocked up the channel. The 
 wind was powerful enough to have forced the 
 vessel through it, and we cut a passage for two 
 or three hundred yards, but finding the bows of 
 the sloop much chafed, and apprehensive that 
 they would not long withstand such a pressure of 
 
 x2 
 
116 WHITEHALL. 
 
 fee, we run her ashore, and made her fast to the 
 feces. We were now in the midst of a dreary 
 forest, and though hut a few miles from the 
 place of our destination; vet there was neither 
 road nor path to it. We, however, all set out 
 under the guidance of our pilot, who knew the 
 direction in which Skenesborough' lay, and with 
 our baggage upon our shoulders commenced our 
 march through the woods. After nearly two 
 hours toilsome walk over broken trunks of trees, 
 up hill, and down dale ; across bogs, and through 
 brushwood and brambles, we arrived at Skenesbo- 
 rough. Here we put up at the only inn in the 
 place ; and were glad enough to rest and refresh 
 ourselves after our fatigues. 
 
 The village of Skenesborough, or as it is now 
 called by the Americans, Whitehall, is situate in 
 a wild romantic country, as yet but little culti- 
 vated or improved. It contains very few houses, 
 but its principal resources are derived from the 
 falls in its vicinity, upon which are built some 
 saw and flour mills ; and from the commerce car- 
 ried on between the state of New York and Ca- 
 nada, it being the port or harbour for most of 
 the vessels employed in that trade, and in trans- 
 porting goods to the different settlements along 
 the lake. It is only within the last twenty years, 
 that much progress has been made in settling the 
 lands in this part of the country. During the 
 American war, they formed almost one continued 
 
SARATOGA. 117 
 
 wood, containing merely a few wretched roads 
 or intricate paths. It was here that General 
 Burgoyne and his army were delayed so many 
 weeks in opening roads through the woods to 
 Fort Edward, which occasioned man}' of those 
 difficulties that afterwards led to the rapture of 
 that fine army. I am told, that when the General 
 found he was hemmed in on every si dt% and knew 
 he must surrender, he gave permission to his 
 officers and soldiers to take advantage of the 
 night, and make their escape into Canada. Up- 
 wards of 20G0 escaped in this manner, and went 
 off, in small parlies, with Indians for their guides. 
 Captain Ferguson of the Canadian fencihles 
 whom I have before-mentioned, was then in 
 Burgoyne's army, and went off with his father, 
 who was a captain in one of the regiments. They 
 made their escape at night without any Indian 
 for their guide, and were forty-three days in the 
 woods before they reached St. John's, during 
 which they had no other subsistence than tiue 
 leaves and bark of trees, and what little game. 
 they could pick up, 
 
 I regretted, that during my journey into the 
 States, I had no opportunity of visiting Saratoga, 
 the memorable scene of that unfortunate event. 
 But 1 understand that it remains nearly in the 
 same state as described by the Duke de Roche- 
 foucault Liancourt. The annexed engraving is 
 from a copy which I took of the drawing of an 
 
118 SARATOGA. 
 
 American gentleman, and represents the situation 
 of the respective eminences on which the Eng- 
 lish, German, and American troops were posted, 
 particularly the encampment where General Bur- 
 goyne terminated his melancholy campaign. 
 
 At the time the Duke visited this memorable 
 spot, it belonged, together with a considerable tract 
 of country in the vicinity, to Mr. John Schuyler, 
 a son of the American general of that name. He 
 is since dead ; but the house in which he resided 
 stands exactly on the spot where this important 
 occurrence took place. Fish Creek, which flows 
 close to the house, formed the line of defence of 
 the camp of the English general, which was 
 situated on an eminence about a quarter of a 
 mile from the dwelling. The camp was also 
 entirely surrounded by a mound of earth, to 
 strengthen its defence. In the rear of the camp, 
 the German troops were posted by divisions on 
 a commanding height, communicating with the 
 eminence on which General Burgoyne was en- 
 camped. The right wing of the German corps 
 had a communication with the left wing of the 
 English, and the left extended towards the river, 
 
 General Gates was encamped on the other side 
 of the creek, at the distance of an eighth of a mile 
 from General Burgoyne ; his right wing stretched 
 towards the plain, but he endeavoured to shelter 
 his troops as much as possible from the enemy's 
 fire, until he resolved to form the attack. Gene- 
 
SARATOGA. 119 
 
 raJ Nelson, at the head of the American militia, 
 occupied the heights on the other side of the 
 river, and engaged the attention of the left wing 
 of the English, while other American corps ob- 
 served the movements of the right wing. 
 
 In this position General Burgoyne surrendered 
 his army. His provision was nearly consumed ; 
 but he was well provided with artillery and am- 
 munition. The spot remains exactly as it then 
 was, excepting that the bushes, which were cut 
 down in front of the two armies, are since grown 
 up again. Not the least alteration, says the 
 Duke, has taken place since that time ; the en* 
 trenchments still exist ; nay the foot-path is still 
 seen, on which the adjutant of General Gates 
 proceeded to the general with the ultimatum of 
 the American commander. The spot on which 
 the council of war was held, remains unaltered ; 
 and, in short, all the interesting memorabilia of 
 that melancholy catastrophe has hitherto been 
 most inviolably preserved. No monument, or 
 other recording emblem, has yet been erected 
 either by the American government, or by indivi- 
 duals to perpetuate the remembrance of an event 
 which tended so materially to establish the inde- 
 pendence of their country. Perhaps none would 
 be necessary, were it possible to maintain the 
 scene of action in its primitive state, but as that 
 is not likely to be the case, the neglecting to raise 
 some lasting memorial of the victory, shews a 
 
120 AMERICAN STAGE- WAGGON. 
 
 want of reipect for the memory of those brave 
 men who sealed with their blood the indepen- 
 dence of the United States. The sight of such 
 a monument would inspirit their descendants, and 
 teach them to venerate that, which had been so 
 dearly purchased. 
 
 Having refreshed ourselves at the inn, and set- 
 tled for our passage with Captain Robert, we 
 engaged with a waggoner, to carry us and our 
 baggage to Troy. He wanted twenty dollars for 
 the journey, but Mr. Lyman being acquainted 
 with the imposition of those gentry, refused to 
 give him more than twelve, which he at length 
 agreed to take, though not without many profes- 
 sions of his own moderation in so doing. The 
 roads being bad at this season of the year, we 
 could not procure the stage which otherwise 
 runs upon this road. The waggon we hired is 
 common in the States, and is used by the country 
 people to carry their provisions to market, or to 
 transport goods from one part of the country to 
 the other. A great number are constantly em- 
 ployed on the road between Skenesborough and 
 Troy. It is a long narrow cart upon four wheels, 
 and drawn by two horses abreast. When used 
 as a stage for travelling, a couple of chairs are 
 placed in it ; but it is a very rough method of 
 riding, for the waggon has no springs; and a 
 traveller ought to have excellent nerves to endure 
 the shaking and jolting of such a vehicle over 
 bati rouds. 
 
iEAVE SKENESBOROUGH. 121 
 
 CHAPTER XXVII. 
 
 Zeccve Skenesborough — American Taverns — Hire 
 another Waggon — Dine at Sale in — Captain 
 White — Humourous Waggoner — Turnpikes, a 
 profitable Speculation — Travelling by Night— r 
 Lansingburgli — Troy — Newspapers — Federal- 
 ists and Democrats— Stage-coach — Steam-boat 
 I — City of Albany ; i's improved State — Grego- 
 ry's Hotel — Mode of Living at Taverns — Town 
 of Hudson — Experiment, Sloop, a nezv Packet 
 Vessel — The Hudson Ritier—*Bemtrfftd Scenery 
 - — Theological Dispute — Entertainment onboard 
 the Sloop — Major Andre — West Point — Ar- 
 rival at New York — Appearance of the City af 
 Night. 
 
 It was about four o'clock iii the afternoon, 
 when we left Skenesborough. The road lay 
 through a newly settled country, which presented 
 on both sides a dreary aspect ; though it was 
 perhaps owing as much to the season of the year 
 as the nature of the country. The woods in many 
 places had been cleared by burning the bark off 
 the trees, and numbers of them yet remained 
 standing, though vegetation was destroyed. The 
 other parts of the farms were covered with the 
 $tumps of trees, and inclosed by worm feuces, 
 
123 AMERICAN TAVERNS. 
 
 which gave to these settlements a very rough ap- 
 pearance. They were, however, numerous, and 
 contained several good houses. 
 
 About seven o'clock we arrived at Granville, a 
 small town, containing a church and several neat 
 houses. We put up for the night at a very good 
 tavern, where we were supplied with an excel- 
 lent supper, composed of as great a variety as we 
 met with for breakfast at Shelburne, and which is 
 customary at all the taverns throughout the nor- 
 thern States. One large room up stairs contained 
 above a dozen beds, so that we each had a sepa- 
 rate one ; a thing not always to be met with at 
 every tavern in the States. But the practice of 
 putting two or three in a bed is now little exer- 
 cised, except at very indifferent taverns, and they 
 are chiefly confined to the back parts of the coun- 
 try. Within the last twenty years the States 
 have been so much improved, that good inns are 
 established in almost every town and village 
 along the principal roads, and the accommoda- 
 tions of many of them are equal to those of 
 England. Travellers are not, therefore, liable to 
 have a strange man step into their bed, as wan 
 the case formerly. During the whole of my 
 tour through the States I never had occasion to 
 bundle, though I have been sometimes asked if I 
 wished to have a single bed. 
 
 We breakfasted at six the next morning, and 
 Jiired another waggon for. eight dollars, there not 
 
SALEM. 123 
 
 being room enough in the other without sitting 
 extremely crowded* Mr, Leavens, the master of 
 the tavern, was to drive us; and having divided 
 our baggage equally between the two waggons, 
 we procured double chairs, which are made for 
 the purpose, and placed them in the fore part of 
 the waggon. They contained two persons, and 
 the driver sat in front. Being thus more com- 
 fortably accommodated than on the preceding 
 evening, we began our journey in good spirits. 
 It was well that we were provided with large 
 buffalo robes and great coats, for the morning was 
 excessively cold, and the snow fell in abundance. 
 I had not an opportunity so late in the year, 
 to see the country to advantage, but I perceived 
 that it improved the farther we proceeded on our 
 journey. It is agreeably diversified with hill and 
 dale, small woods, clumps of trees, corn fields, 
 pastures, and meadow lands. The soil is said to 
 be fertile, and it appeared in general to be well 
 cleared from the stumps of trees, which abounded 
 in the plantations through which we had passed 
 the preceding day. Many very handsome houses 
 and churches are built near the road side, all of 
 wood ; but constructed very neatly with clap- 
 boards and shingles, which cover the heavy tim- 
 bers. Many of the houses are built in the style 
 of English country dwellings of the modern 
 taste : some of them two or three stories high, 
 painted white, and ornamented with green vene- 
 
124 
 
 SALEM, 
 
 tian shades. The churches are uncommonly neat, 
 painted white, and kept in excellent order. They 
 have good spires, and some of them bells. 
 
 We passed through Hebron, and some other 
 small villages, and arrived at Salem to dinner. 
 This little town consists of one street of handsome 
 houses, many of them red brick, but the greater 
 part of wood. They are built with considerable 
 taste, and are ornamented much like the other 
 buildings I have mentioned. Some of them are 
 shops and inns ; but the majority appear to be 
 private houses, belonging to gentlemen of pro- 
 perty in thjs part of the country. It is quite a 
 new town, and apparently in a state of progres- 
 sive improvement. 
 
 After dinner we proceeded on our journej. 
 Mr. Leaven's horses being but indifferent, he 
 took the lead with his waggon, in which were 
 Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Welch. Mr. Storrow, 
 Mr. Lyman, and myself, followed in the next 
 waggon. Our driver had an excellent pair of 
 horses, which wonld have knocked up those of 
 Leaven's had tbey taken the lead, as they did in 
 the morning. The roads being covered with 
 snow also obliged us to slacken our pace. This 
 tedious travelling was by no means to our taste, 
 and we should possibly have lost our good hu- 
 mour, had not the arch whimsicality of our 
 driver, who was called Captain White, furnished 
 us with abundant matter for mirth. He enter- 
 
HUMOUROUS WAGGONER. 125 
 
 tained us with many humorous stories, and had 
 always something smart to say to every waggoner 
 or person that passed us. He spoke to several 
 people of consequence in the country with the 
 utmost freedom. To one, it was, " Why, Ma- 
 jor, you look as if you couldn't help it this cold 
 day." To another, " Nation bad road, General" 
 To a third, who was a judge, ■* Awful weather, 
 master, and sure enough your nose looks blue 
 uportt" They all seemed to know him, and 
 took his jokes in good part; for it afterwards 
 turned out, that our waggoner was himself a 
 captain in the army t He was very severe upon 
 his brothers of the whip, whom he declared to be 
 the greatest rogues in the state of New- York, 
 and assured us, that we might consider ourselves 
 very lucky in having fallen into his hands, as he 
 was the only honest one among them, save and ex- 
 cept his friend Master Leavens, who was as 
 worthy a fellow as himself. 
 
 We arrived at a tavern about eight miles from 
 Salem, just as it was dark. Here we halted fov 
 a few hours to refresh ourselves, and the horses. 
 About eleven o'clock we proceeded on our route 
 to Troy. As we travelled during the night, it is 
 impossible for me to describe the appearance of 
 this part of the country ; and the moon did not 
 condescend to enliven us with her pale beams. 
 But our driver informed us that it was in a 
 better state of cultivation and improvement, tha^ 
 
126 Lansingburgh. 
 
 that through which we had passed. There ar£ 
 several turnpikes along this road, by which means 
 it is kept in good repair. They are common 
 throughout the northern and middle States, and 
 have tended greatly to improve the country ; for 
 as soon as a good road is opened through the 
 woods, communicating between the greater towns, 
 the country which was before a trackless forest, 
 becomes settled, and in a few years, the borders 
 of the road are lined with habitations. The ex- 
 penses are defrayed by shares subscribed by a cer- 
 tain number of persons, who form themselves into 
 a company under an act of the legislature. It is 
 a speculation that few have failed in, for the 
 traffic on the road, soon increases the value of 
 the capital. It would be well if Canada was 
 to imitate the example of her neighbours in this 
 respect. 
 
 This night we passed through Cambridge, 
 Hosick, Pittstown, and Scbatchoke, all small neat 
 towns. The further we went to the southward 
 the less snow we found on the ground, and by 
 the time we arrived at Lansingburgh, it entirely 
 disappeared. We reached this town about four 
 o'clock in the morning, but it was yet so dark, 
 that I could only discern that it consisted of one 
 long street of large brick houses many of them 
 apparently handsome buildings. Troy is situated 
 but a few miles from Lansingburgh, and we 
 arrived there about five o'clock. We put up at 
 
TROY. 127 
 
 a large inn ; and as we had now done with our 
 waggon drivers we paid them the twenty dollars, 
 according to our agreement, and parted mutu- 
 ally satisfied. We had no cause to complain 
 of either of them, and the rough humour of 
 Captain White had afforded us much mirth. 
 
 Troy is a well built town consisting chiefly of 
 one street of handsome red brick houses, upwards 
 of a mile and half in length. There are two or 
 three short streets which branch off from the 
 main one; but it is in the latter, that all the 
 principal stores, warehouses, and shops are situ- 
 ated. It also contains several excellent inns and 
 taverns. The houses which are all new, are 
 lofty, and built with much taste and simplicity* 
 though convenience and accommodation seems 
 to have guided the architect, more than orna- 
 ment. The deep red brick, well pointed, give* 
 the buildings an air of neatness and cleanliness^ 
 seldom met with in old towns : but I cannot say 
 that I admire it so much as the yellow brick i» 
 England. The town is built on the east shore 
 of the Hitdson or North River close to the beach, 
 and about six miles above Albany, which i* 
 situated on the opposite shore. Troy has been 
 erected within the last twenty years, and is now 
 a place of considerable importance. The trade 
 which it has opened with the new settlements to 
 the northward, through the States of New York 
 and Vermont as far as Canada, is very extensive : 
 
123 FEDERALISTS AND DEMOCRATS. 
 
 and if) another twenty years it promises to rival 
 the old established city of Albany. Its prosperity 
 is indeed already looked upon with an eye of 
 jealousy by the people of the latter place. 
 
 While we were at breakfast, newspapers came 
 in from New York, containing accounts of the 
 English expedition to Copenhagen, and the re- 
 fusal of the British government to agree to the 
 proposals of Mr. Pinckney, to negotiate a treaty 
 upon the same terms, as had been before so 
 haughtily rejected and sent back, by Mr. Jeffer- 
 son. We were much interested with the news, 
 and the Americans appeared apprehensive that a 
 war would take place between the two countries. 
 Several strangers came into the room, and began 
 to make some observations on the news, but none 
 of our party made them any reply ; for the 
 Americans are so extremely captious upon politi- 
 cal subjects, that they can never speak of them 
 without entering into a dispute; and disputes 
 generally terminate in quarrels. I soon perceived 
 that the people were divided into two parties. 
 The federalists and the democrats, and that 
 both were equally violent in their political alter- 
 cations. The federalists are as partial to the 
 English as the democrats are to the French, 
 and the people of those nations who reside in the 
 States, enlist themselves under the banners of 
 these two parties. I shall have* an opportunity 
 of speaking more particularly of them in a futuie 
 
STAGE-COACH. 129 
 
 chapter, and for the present shall proceed with 
 our journey. 
 
 After breakfast we crossed the Hudson in a 
 ferry boat, and got into the stage which was 
 going to Albany. It was similar to the one in 
 which I had travelled from La Prairie to St. 
 John's, and is in general use throughout the 
 states. It is in the form of a large coach, with 
 open sides and front, and flat roof, supported 
 by eight pillars. The pannels do not come up 
 higher than the hip, and in wet or cold weather 
 leather curtains are let down on each side ; the 
 buttons and straps are, however, frequently 
 broken off, so that the wind and rain often find 
 a ready admittance. This kind of carriage, not- 
 withstanding its defects, is far superior to the 
 Canadian calash for long journeys, as the latter 
 affords not the least shelter. It is always drawn 
 by four horses, which in well settled parts of the 
 United States, are as good as the generality of 
 English stage horses. The Americans have not 
 yet introduced the close English stage with glass 
 windows, probably on account of the hot wea- 
 ther which prevails there, much more than in 
 England, and the indifferent roads, which are 
 yet in existence in many parts of the Union, 
 particularly to the southward, and in the back 
 settlements. 
 
 We rode along the border of the Hudson, 
 which is prettily adorned with several small 
 
 vol. n. jfc 
 
130 STEAM-BOAT. 
 
 islands. It is sufficiently deep to admit sloops up to 
 Troy, and flat bottomed boats much higher. The 
 surrounding country is well settled,, and presents 
 to the eye, the pleasing prospect of rich culti- 
 vated lands, woods, towns, villages, and scattered 
 habitations. We arrived at Albany about noon, 
 and put up at the Tontine Coffee-house, kept by 
 Gregory. We now learnt that the river was 
 frozen over several miles below Albany, and that 
 the steam-boat in which we intended to have taken 
 our passage toNew York, was laid up for the win- 
 ter. We were much disappointed at this news, as 
 we were very desirous of seeing the construction 
 and management of this celebrated vessel, which 
 travels at the rate of five miles an hour against 
 wind and tide. It was built about four years ago, 
 under the direction of Mr. Fulton, an American 
 gentleman, of great mecbanical abilities. The 
 length of the boat is 160 feet, and her width in 
 proportion, so as not too much to impede her 
 sailing. The machine which moves her wheels, 
 is called a twenty horse machine, or equal to the 
 power of so many horses, and is kept in motion 
 by steam from a copper boiler, eight or ten feet 
 in length. The wheels on each side are similar to 
 those of water mills, and under cover; they are 
 moved backward or forward, separately, or to- 
 gether, at pleasure. Her principal advantage is 
 in calms or against head winds. When the wind 
 is fair, light square sails, &c. are employed to 
 
CITY OF ALBANY. 131 
 
 increase her speed. Her accommodations,, in- 
 clude fifty-two births besides sofas, and are said 
 to be equal, if not superior, to any vessel that sails 
 on the river. They are necessarily extensive, as 
 all the space unoccupied by the machinery, is 
 fitted up in a convenient and elegant manner. 
 Her route between Albany and New York is a 
 distance of 160 miles, which she performs regu- 
 larly twice a week, sometimes in the short period 
 of thirty-two hours, exclusive of detention, by 
 taking in and landing passengers. She carries 
 from 100 to 120 people. The fare from New 
 York to Albany is seven dollars. 
 
 The city of Albany has of late years rapidly in- 
 creased in size, wealth, and population. A num- 
 ber of handsome dwelling houses and public 
 buildings have been erected, and the old heavy 
 Dutch houses, with the gable end towards the 
 street, are considerably diminished. One of the 
 principal streets, has a great resemblance to the 
 Haymarket in London, being nearly the same 
 width, and situated on an ascent. Albany con* 
 tains about 6,000 inhabitants, and ranks next to 
 the city of New York in that state. The trade 
 which is carried on in this city with the new set- 
 tlements to the northward and westward is very 
 considerable, and is daily increasing. We had 
 excellent accommodations at Gregory's, which is 
 equal to many of our hotels in London. It is the 
 custom in all the American taverns, from the 
 
 k2 
 
132 MODE OF JLIVING AT TAVERNS. 
 
 highest to the lowest,, to have a'sort of table d'hote, 
 or public table, at which the inmates of the house 
 and traveller dine together at a certain hour. It 
 is also frequented by many single gentlemen be- 
 longing to the town. At Gregory's, upwards of 
 thirty sat down to dinner, though there were not 
 more than a dozen who resided in the house. A 
 stranger is thus soon introduced to an acquaint- 
 ance with the people, and if he is travelling alone, 
 he will find at these tables some relief from the 
 ennui of his situation. At the better sort of Ame- 
 rican taverns or hotels, very excellent dinners are 
 provided, consisting of almost every thing in sea- 
 son. The hour is from two to three o'clock, and 
 there are three meals in the day. They breakfast 
 at eight o'clock upon rump steaks, fish, eggs, and 
 a variety of cakes, with tea or coffee. The last 
 meal is at seven in the evening, and consists of as 
 substantial fare as the breakfast, with the addition 
 of cold fowl, ham, &c. The price of boarding at 
 these houses is from a dollar and half, to two 
 dollars per day. Brandy, hollands, and other 
 spirits, are allowed at dinner; but every other 
 liquor is paid for, extra. English breakfasts and 
 teas, generally speaking, are meagre repasts com- 
 pared with those of America ; and as far as I had 
 an- opportunity of observing, the people live, 
 with respect to eating, in a much more luxurious 
 manner than we do, particularly in the great towns 
 and their neighbourhoods. But their meals, I 
 
HUDSON. 133 
 
 think, are composed of too great a variety, and 
 of too many things, to be conducive to health ; 
 and I have little doubt, but that many of their 
 diseases are engendered by gross diet, and the U9e 
 of animal food at every meal. Many private fa- 
 milies live nearly in the same style as at these 
 houses, and have as great variety upon their tables. 
 Formerly, pies, pudding6, and cyder used to 
 grace the breakfast table : but they are now dis- 
 carded from the genteeler houses, and are found 
 only at the small taverns and farm-houses in the 
 country. 
 
 Having hired a stage to take us to Hudson, 
 about thirty miles below, on the east side of the 
 river, we left Albany the following morning, and 
 crossed over to the opposite shore in the ferry- 
 boat. At the top of a hill, which rises gradually 
 from the water side, we had a beautiful view of 
 the city and its environs. Several gentlemen's 
 seats appeared to great advantage, and the plan- 
 tations, gardens, meadow lands, and orchards, 
 interspersed among a number of handsome build- 
 ings, had a very picturesque effect. I only re- 
 gretted that I was deprived the pleasure of view- 
 ing such a pleasing scene, at a more congenial 
 season of the year. The day was, however, re- 
 markably fine, which made some amends for the 
 sombre tint of nature. The country through 
 which we travelled this day, was fruitful, well 
 cultivated, and adorned with several neat farms 
 
134 NEW PACKET VESSEL. 
 
 and villages. In the evening we arrived at Hud- 
 son. This town is of modern construction ; and, 
 like Troy, consists of one very long street. The 
 houses are of wood or brick, many of them huilt 
 with taste, and all spacious and commodious. 
 Shops and warehouses are numerous, and there 
 are several large inns; from which I conceived 
 that a considerable trade was carried on be- 
 tween this town and the interior. It has every 
 appearance of a thriving settlement, and its situ- 
 ation is elevated, and advantageous for commerce. 
 There are several large brick warehouses near the 
 wharfs for the reception of goods ; and a great 
 many small vessels sail continually between this 
 town and New York. Ship-building is carried 
 on here, and a vessel of 3 or 400 tons was just 
 ready for launching. Several other vessels of 
 that size were also in the harbour. 
 
 The next morning, Sunday, 22d November, we 
 embarked on board the Experiment, a fine new 
 sloop of 130 tons, built expressly for carrying 
 passengers between Hudson and New York. The 
 whole vessel was handsomely fitted up. It had 
 two private cabins abaft, containing several bed- 
 places for ladies. In the midship was a large 
 general room upwards of sixty ieet long, and 
 twenty feet wide, containing a double tier of bed- 
 places on each side for gentlemen, with printed 
 cotton curtains drawn before them. At the head 
 of this cabin, or room, there was a bar, like that 
 
NEW PACKET VESSEL. 135 
 
 of a coffee-house, where the company were sup- 
 plied with wine, bottled porter, ale, cigars, and 
 such articles as were not included in the passage 
 money. Between the bar and the forecastle was 
 a very complete kitchen, fitted up with a good 
 fire-place, copper boilers, and every convenience 
 for cooking. The forecastle was appropriated 
 to the use of the sailors. The passage-money 
 was five dollars, for which the passengers were 
 provided during the voyage, with three meals a 
 day, including spirits ; all other liquors were to 
 be separately paid for. 
 
 About nine o'clock in the morning we left the 
 wharf, which was crowded with people, to see the 
 vessel depart ; for it was the largest and best of 
 the kind, except the steam-boat, that sailed on 
 the river as a packet. It had not been established 
 above six months. The mainmast, boom, and 
 mainsail were of an immense size for a sloop, but 
 we had ten or a dozen fine young fellows to work 
 the vessel, and having a smart breeze, we soon 
 left the town of Hudson far behind us. Mr. 
 Elihu Bunker, who commanded the vessel,, was 
 part owner as well as captain, and seemed to be 
 a plain religious sort of man. He had more the 
 look of a parson than a sailor ; and had posted 
 up a long list of regulations at the cabin door, 
 which, if properly enforced, were well calculated 
 to keep his passengers in good order. In truth, 
 something of the kind was necessary, for we had 
 
136 HUDSON RIT£R. 
 
 upwards of fifty persons on board, nearly all men. 
 Among the forbidden articles were, playing at 
 cards, and smoking in the cabin. 
 
 The morning was remarkably fine; the wind 
 favoured us, and we had every prospect of an 
 agreeable voyage. The month of November was 
 but ill adapted to view the country to advantage, 
 for the gay verdure of the fields and forests, 
 was now supplanted by the brown and gloomy 
 hue of winter. Yet the scenes that presented 
 themselves along the shores of the Hudson, were 
 in some places of that grand and romantic descrip- 
 tion, and in others so beautifully picturesque, 
 that they could not fail to interest the spectator 
 at any season of the year. This river affords 
 some of the noblest landscapes and scenery, that 
 are to be found in any part of North America. 
 Nature and Art have both contributed to render 
 its shores at once sublime and beautiful. 
 
 The river in many places is intersected with 
 numerous islands. In others it is diversified with 
 handsome windings. Sometimes its waters are 
 contracted between stupendous rocks that frown 
 aloft in sullen majesty. At other times they are 
 expanded to a great extent, between a fine open 
 country, containing well cultivated settlements. 
 The rocks which line the shore in numerous parts 
 of the river, are steep and rugged; and rise to such 
 an height above the water's edge, that the largest 
 trees which grow upon their summits, are dwindled 
 
BEAUTIFUL SCENEUY. 137 
 
 in appearance to the smallest shrubs. Behind 
 these rocks are ranges of enormous mountains 
 which extend far into the country, and are cover- 
 ed with trackless forests. 
 
 " Gigantic, vast, 
 
 O'ershadowing mountains soar, invested thick 
 Their shaggy waists, and to their summits far 
 A wilderness unbounded to the eye, 
 Profuse, and pathless, unsubdued by toih 
 Diminutive beneath, the Hudson, deep 
 Coerc'd by rocks, and silent penetrates 
 The solitudinous and woodland scene j 
 struggling for a passage." 
 
 In other places, the shores rise from the water's 
 edge into small hills, and descending on the oppo- 
 site side, form beautiful little valleys; beyond 
 them arise other acclivities, which at length 
 terminate at the base of lofty mountains. The 
 country thus gently undulated, is covered with 
 rich farms, plantations, orchards, and gardens, 
 and studded with neat and handsome dwelling 
 houses. The cultivated parts are intersected with 
 small woods, coppices, and clumps of trees, 
 which add much to the diversity of the scenery, 
 and form a pleasing contrast to lawns, meadows, 
 and corn-fields. In several places along shore 
 are elegant mansions, and country seats, belong- 
 ing to the principal persons in the State of New 
 York. Some were pointed out to us, and the 
 names of their owners mentioned, but I only 
 
138 THEOLOGICAL DISPUTE. 
 
 recollect those of Mr. Livingston, and Mrs. 
 Montgomery, the widow of the general who fell 
 at Quebec. The river is also ornamented with 
 several little towns and villages near the water- 
 side, and except in the neighbourhood of the 
 rocks and mountains, the country appeared to 
 be well inhabited. The fineness of the weather 
 contributed much to heighten the beauty of the 
 scenes which every where opened upon our view 
 as the vessel glided with the stream. In short, 
 words are inadequate to do justice to the variety 
 and splendour of the objects that present them- 
 selves at e\ery turn and winding of this beautiful 
 river. The pencil of a Claude can alone delineate 
 them as they deserve, and pourtray their beauties 
 with fidelity and truth. 
 
 We had not more than half a dozen ladies on 
 board, the rest of our numerous company were 
 gentlemen of all descriptions. Most of them 
 appeared to be methodists, baptists, and other 
 dissenters, who are very numerous in the States, 
 and it being Sunday, several of them got together 
 and sung hymns. They had good voices, and 
 sung in different keys ; but there was a melancholy 
 monotony in the tunes which I did not much 
 admire. We had two singing groups; one on 
 deck, and the other in the cabin. Beside which, 
 there was a third group assembled round a metho- 
 dist parson, who harangued for a considerable time, 
 with much self satisfaction, until he happened 
 
THEOLOGICAL DISPUTE. 139 
 
 unfortunately to broach some curious doctrines, 
 when he was cut short by a gentleman, who from 
 the opinions he advanced in opposition to the 
 parson, seemed to doubt the authenticity of re- 
 vealed religion. I really believe, however, that 
 he was not in earnest, and only started difficulties 
 to puzzle the other, who now quitted his preach- 
 ing to enter the lists with the sceptic as he called 
 him. For upwards of two hours they combated 
 each other with great ardour; affording the rest 
 of the company high entertainment. The gentle- 
 man pointed out all the incongruities in the Old 
 and New Testament, seeming to doubt every thing 
 which had been accomplished by miracles, and 
 challenged the other to prove their authenticity. 
 The parson proceeded in the common-place way, 
 to satisfy the doubts of his antagonist. In some 
 instances he succeeded tolerably well, but in others 
 he was completely confounded, and was obliged 
 to digress from the subject, to something which 
 he thought unanswerable by his opponent. The 
 latter, however, endeavoured to keep him always 
 to the point, and the parson was at times so much 
 perplexed, that he became the butt of the com- 
 pany. He however bore their jokes with great 
 good humour and patience; but finding that he 
 could not satisfy the gentleman's scruples, he 
 began upon politics. We soon discovered that 
 he was a Jefferson ian, and there happening to be 
 a large majority of federalists on board, among 
 
1 10 ENTERTAINMENT ON BOARD THE SLOOP. 
 
 whom were the editor and printer of the Albany 
 Balance, a strong anti-democratic paper, the 
 poor parson got most roughly handled, and I per- 
 ceived that it was a more difficult task for him 
 to keep his temper upon politics than upon 
 religion. 
 
 In this manner the morning was passed and 
 we were glad to find our party of disputants 
 and politicians sit down to dinner with great 
 cordiality ; and in the pleasures of the table, 
 forgot the fretfulness of an empty stomach. Our 
 dinner consisted of every thing in season, and was 
 admirably served up. Indeed, it would not have 
 disgraced a tavern in London. At seven o'clock 
 we had tea and coffee together with the cold 
 turkies and ham left at dinner. This was our 
 last meal. At ten o'clock some few of the passen- 
 gers turned into their births ; others not inclined 
 to go to bed so soon, called for wine, and began 
 losing some patriotic songs, such as Hail Colum- 
 bia, &e. One of them sung several English 
 songs, which not exactly suiting the democratic 
 principles of two or three persons on board, the 
 captain came into ihe cabin, and said that he was 
 desired by some of the passengers, to request, 
 that as it was Sunday night, the gentlemen would 
 not sing. It also prevented those who had laid 
 down, from going to sleep. The poor methodist 
 parson was immediately suspected, and charged 
 with endeavouring to interrupt the conviviality 
 
MAJOR ANDRL . 141 
 
 of the company. He however came forward and 
 assured them he was innocent of the charge. 
 The jovial party declared that it was very hard 
 they were not permitted to amuse themselves with 
 a few innocent songs, when they had so quietly 
 listened all the morning, to the dismal psalm 
 singing and political disputes of other gentlemen : 
 but as it was near twelve o'clock they acquiesced 
 iu the wishes of the captain. They were, how- 
 ever, determined to have another bottle or two of 
 wine; and sat up a considerable time longer, 
 cracking their jokes upon the parson, and those 
 who had expressed their disapprobation of sing- 
 ing songs on Sunday. 
 
 We sailed all night; but as the wind shifted 
 to an opposite quarter, we made but little pro- 
 gress. The next morning it became more fa- 
 vourable, and the weather being fine, we had an 
 agreeable passage. The prospects that presented 
 themselves, were equally beautiful and varied as 
 yesterday; but the country was more rocky and 
 mountainous. This day we passed the fort at 
 West Point, where Arnold betraved the cause of 
 his country, and brought upon the gallant Major 
 Andre an ignominious death. 
 
 " Far within the lofty desert we beheld 
 
 The fort, and thundering cannon on its brow, 
 Rais'd on the western rocks, where travellers long 
 The base and vain design that had betrayed 
 Columbia, shall relate." 
 
142 „ ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. 
 
 About fen o'clock at night we arrived at New 
 York ; it was very dark, and as we sailed by the 
 town, lighted lamps and windows sparkled every 
 where, amidst the houses, in the streets, and along 
 the water side. The wharfs were crowded with 
 shipping, whose tall, masts mingled with the build- 
 ings ; and, together with the spires and cupolas 
 of the churches, gave the city an appearance of 
 magnificence, which the gloomy obscurity of the 
 night served to increase. 
 
 When the vessel was made fast to one of the 
 wharfs, I went ashore with Mr. Mackenzie, Mr. 
 Lyman, and the rest of our party, to find a board- 
 ing house. Mrs. Loring's house in the Broad- 
 way, where we intended to have lodged, was full; 
 so that after rambling about the streets for an 
 hour, we were obliged to return on board again 
 for the night. After so long an absence from 
 London, I could not help experiencing a degree 
 of satisfaction at onee more treading the pave- 
 ment of a large and populous city. Neither 
 Montreal nor Quebec had the least resemblance 
 to that which I had left; but New York seemed 
 to present an exact epitome of it ; and at the dis- 
 tance of 3,000 miles, I now pleased myself with 
 the idea of finding the manners, customs, and 
 institutions of my ow u country, reflected on this 
 portion of the new world. 
 
BOARDING HOUSE. 143 
 
 CHAPTER XXVIII. 
 
 Boarding House — Evacuation of New York 
 celebrated on 2bth November — The Harbour — 
 TheBroadway — Bowery Road — Shops — Hotels 
 — Public Buildings — The Park — Caterpillars 
 — The Theatre—Mr. Cooper's Performances— 
 Richard the Third — Annotations on Shak- 
 
 speare Yauxhall Ranelagh Wharfs — 
 
 Warehouses — Shipping — State of New York 
 before the Embargo- — Bustle and Activity which 
 prevailed — Melancholy effects of the Embargo 
 — Annihilation of Commerce. 
 
 The next morning we left the sloop, and took 
 up our abode with a Quaker lady in Maiden- 
 lane, to whom we were introduced by Mr. Ly- 
 man. Her boarders consisted mostly of young 
 merchants, of her own family, which was very re- 
 spectable, and nearly related to some of the prin- 
 cipal people in New York. Of our party, I was 
 the only one, at the end of a fortnight, who re- 
 mained in that city. Mr. Lyman returned to 
 Montreal ; Mr. Welch sailed for Charleston in 
 South Carolina ; Mr. Storrow went to Boston ; 
 and Mr. Mackenzie sailed in the British pac- 
 ket for England. Thus I was soon separated 
 from my fcllow-travellers, for whom, in the short 
 
144 EVACUATION OF NEW YORK. 
 
 period of eight days, I had imbibed a friendship 
 that made me part with them reluctantly : so 
 much do we attach ourselves to those who have 
 partaken of our pleasures and adventures,, or par- 
 ticipated ia our dangers and anxieties. 
 
 The day after our arrival, being the 25th of 
 November, was the anniversary of the evacua- 
 tion of New York by the British troops at the 
 peace of 1783. The militia, or rather the volun- 
 teer corps, assembled from different parts of the 
 city, on the grand battery by the water-side, so 
 galled from a fort having been formerly built on 
 the spot, though at present it is nothing more 
 than a lawn for the recreation of the inhabitants, 
 and for the purpose of military parade. The 
 troops did not amount to 600, and were gaudily 
 dressed, in a variety of uniforms, every ward in 
 the city having a different one : some of them 
 with helmets, appeared better suited to the theatre 
 than the field. The general of the militia and 
 his staff, were dressed in the national uniform of 
 blue, with buff facings. They also wore large 
 gold epaulets and feathers, which altogether had 
 a very showy appearance. Some gun-boats were 
 stationed off the battery, and fired several salutes 
 in honour of the day, and the troops paraded 
 through the streets leading to the water-side ; 
 but the crowd being very great, I did not think 
 the ceremony worth the trouble of following 
 them, and therefora returned home. I was after- 
 
NEW YORK. 145 
 
 wards told that they went through the forms prac- 
 tised on taking possession of the city, manoeuvring 
 aad firing feus de joye, &c. as occurred on the 
 evacuation of New York. One of the corps con- 
 sisted wholly of Irishmen, dressed in light green 
 jackets,, white pantaloons, and helmets. 
 
 The city of New York is situated on the island 
 of Manhattan, at the confluence of the Hudson 
 and East rivers. The island is separated from the 
 continental part of the state of New York by the 
 Haerlem river. Its length is about sixteen miles, 
 and its breadth varies from a quarter to a mile 
 and a half. The bay is about nine miles long, 
 and three broad, without reckoning the branches 
 of the rivers on each side of the town. From 
 the ocean at Sandy Hook to the city, is not more 
 than twenty-eight miles. The water is deep 
 enough Xo float the largest vessels. Ships of 
 ninety guns have anchored opposite the city. 
 There they lie land-locked, and well secured from 
 winds and storms ; and fleets of the greatest 
 number have ample space for mooring. Dur- 
 ing the revolutionary war, New York was the 
 great rendezvous for the British fleet, from the 
 time of its surrender m 1776 to the peace of 
 i783 our ships of war passed all seasons of the 
 year here in security. 
 
 It has been often observed that the cold of 
 wiuter has less effect upon the water of New 
 York harbour, than in several places further to 
 
 VOL. It. L 
 
146 THE HARKOtm, 
 
 the south. When Philadelphia, Baltimore,, mi 
 Alexandria are choked up by ice in severe winters, 
 as in thatof 180f, New York suffers scarcely any 
 inconvenience from it. This is owing partly to the 
 saltness of the sound and the bay ; while the Dela- 
 ware, Patapsco, arid Potomack, at the respective 
 cities abovementioned are fresh, and consequently 
 more easy to freeze. The water at New York 
 differs but little in saltness from the neighbouring 
 Atlantic. The openness of the port is also to be 
 ascribed in part to the greater ebb and flow of 
 the tide. Another reason of the greater fitness 
 of New York for winter navigation is the rapid- 
 ity of the currents. The strength of these ift 
 ordinary tides, and more especially when they are 
 agitated by storms is capable of rending the solid- 
 ity of the ice, and reducing it to fragments. And 
 although the whole harbour was covered by a 
 bridge of very compact ice in 1780, to the serious 
 alarm of the British garrison, the like has never 
 occurred since. The islands in the vicinity of 
 New York are Long Island, Staten Island, 
 Governors Bedlow's and Ellis's Islands. The 
 first is of very considerable extent, being 120 
 miles in length, and about eight miles in breadth. 
 It is a fertile and well cultivated piece of land: 
 inhabited chiefly by the descendants of the old 
 Dutch settlers. 
 
 New York is the first city in the United States, 
 for wealth, commerce, and population ; as it also 
 
BROADWAY AND BOWERY ROAD. 147 
 
 is the finest and most agreeable for its situation 
 and buildings. It has neither the narrow and 
 confined irregularity of Boston, nor the monoton- 
 ous regularity of Philadelphia, but a happy me- 
 dium between both. When the intended improve- 
 ments are completed, it will be a very elegant 
 and commodions town, and worthy of becoming 
 the capital of the United States, for it seems that 
 Washington is by no means calculated for a 
 metropolitan city. New York has rapidly im- 
 proved within the last twenty years, and land 
 which then sold in that city for fifty dollars, is 
 now worth 1,500. 
 
 The Broadway and Bowery Road, are the 
 two finest avenues in the city, and nearly of the 
 same width as Oxford-street in London. The 
 first commences from the Grand Battery situate at 
 the extreme point of the Town, and divides it into 
 two unequal parts. It is upwards of two miles 
 in length, though the pavement does not extend 
 above a mile and a quarter; the remainder of 
 the road consists of straggling houses which 
 are the commencement of new streets, already 
 planned out. The Bowery road commences from 
 Chatham street which branches off from the 
 Broadway to the right, by the side of the park. 
 After proceeding about a mile and a half it joins 
 the Broadway, and terminates the plan which 
 is intended to be carried into effect for the enlarge- 
 ment of the city. Much of the intermediate 
 
 l2 
 
148 HOUSES AtfD SHOPS. 
 
 spaces between these large streets, and from 
 thence to the Hudson and East rivers, is yet un- 
 built upon, or consists only of unfinished streets 
 and detached buildings. 
 
 The houses in the Broadway are lofty and well 
 built. They are constructed in the English style, 
 and differ but little from those of London at the 
 west end of the town ; except, that they are uni- 
 versally built of red brick. In the vicinity of the 
 Battery, and for some distance up the Broadway, 
 they are nearly all private houses, and occupied 
 by the principal merchants and gentry of New 
 York; after which, the Broadway is lined with 
 large commodious shops of every description, 
 well stocked with European and India goods ; 
 and exhibiting as splendid and varied a show ia 
 their windows, as can be met with in London, 
 There are several extensive book stores, print- 
 shops, music-shops, jewellers, and silversmiths; 
 hatters, linen-drapers, milliners, pastry cooks, 
 coach-makers, hotels, and coffee-houses. The 
 street is well paved, and the foot-paths are chiefly 
 bricked. In Robinson-street, the pavement be- 
 fore one of the houses, and the steps of the door, 
 are composed entirely of marble. 
 
 The City Hotel is the most extensive building of 
 that description in New- York ; and nearly re- 
 sembles, in size and style of architecture, the 
 London Tavern in Bishopgate-street. The ground- 
 &&m of the hot?V a t New-York is, however, con- 
 
PUBLIC BUILDINGS. 149 
 
 verted into shops, which have a very handsome 
 appearance in the Broadway. Mechanic Hall is 
 another large hotel at the corner of Robinson- 
 street, in the Broadway. It was erected by the 
 society of mechanics and tradesmen, who asso- 
 ciated themselves for charitable purposes, under 
 an act of the legislature in 1792. There are 
 three churches in the Broadway, one of them 
 called Grace Church, is a plain brick building, 
 recently erected: the other two are St. Paul's 
 and Trinity; both handsome structures, built 
 with an intermixture of white and brown stone. 
 The adjoining church-yards, which occupy a 
 large space of ground, railed in from the street, 
 and crowded with tomb-stones, are far from being 
 agreeable spectacles in such a populous city. At 
 the commencement of the Broadway, near the 
 battery, stands the old government-house, now 
 converted into offices for the customs. Before it 
 is a small lawn railed in, and in the centre is a 
 stone pedestal, upon which formerly stood a 
 leaden statue of George the Third. In the revo- 
 lutionary war it was pulled down by the popu- 
 lace, and made into bullet*. 
 
 The city hall, where the courts of justice are 
 held, is situated in Wall street, leading from the 
 coffee-house slip by the water side, into the Broad- 
 way. It is an old heavy building, and very ina- 
 dequate to the present population and wealth 
 of New York. A court-house on a larger scale, 
 
150 THE PARK. 
 
 and more worthy of the improved state of the city, 
 is now building at the end of the Park, between 
 the Broadway and Chatham- street, in a style of 
 magr Scence, unequalled in many of the larger 
 cities of Europe. The exterior consists wholly of 
 fine marble, ornamented in a very neat and ele- 
 gant style of architecture, and the whole is to 
 be surmounted by a beautiful dome, which, when 
 finished, will form a noble ornament to that part 
 of the town, in which are also situated the theatre, 
 mechanic hall, and some of the best private 
 bouses in New York. The Park, though not 
 remarkable for its size, is, however, of service, by 
 displaying the surrounding buildings to a better 
 advantage ; and is also a relief to the confined 
 appearance of streets in general. It consists of 
 about four acres planted with elms, planes, wil- 
 lows, and catalpac ; and the surrounding foot- 
 walk is encompassed by rows of poplars : the 
 whole is inclosed by a wooden paling. Neither 
 the Park nor the Battery are very much resorted 
 to by the fashionables of New York, as they have 
 become too common. The genteel lounge is in 
 the Broadway, from eleven to three o'clock, dur- 
 ing which time, it is as much crowded as the 
 Bond-street of London : and the can -ages, though 
 not so numerous, are driven to and fro with as 
 much velocity. The foot paths are planted with 
 poplars, and afford an agreeable shade from the 
 sun in summer. About two years ago the inha- 
 
THE THEATRE. 151 
 
 Litants were alarmed by a large species of cater- 
 pillar, which bred in great numbers on the pop- 
 lars, and were supposed to be venomous, various 
 experiments were tried, and cats and dogs were 
 made to swallow them ; but it proved to be a 
 false alarm, though the city for some time was 
 thrown into as great a consternation as we have 
 frequently been with mad dogs. 
 
 The theatre is on the south-east side of the 
 Park, and is a large commodious building. The 
 outside is in an unfinished state, but the interior 
 is handsomely decorated, and fitted up in as good 
 style as the London theatres, upon a scale suitable 
 to the population of the city. It contains a 
 large coffee room, and good sized lobbies ; and 
 is reckoned to hold about 1,200 persons. The 
 scenes are well painted and numerous; and the 
 machinery, dresses, and decorations, are elegant 
 and appropriate to the performances, which con- 
 sist of all the new pieces that come out on the 
 London boards, and several of Shakspeare's best 
 plays. The onjy fault is, that they are too much 
 curtailed, by which they often lose their effect; 
 and the performances are sometimes over by half 
 past ten, though they do not begin at an earlier 
 hour than in London. The drama had been a 
 favourite in New York before the Revolution. 
 During the time the city was in our possession, 
 theatrical entertainments were very fashionable; 
 and the characters were mostly supported by 
 
152 THE THEATRE. 
 
 officers of the army. After the termination of 
 the war, the play-house fell into the hands of 
 Messrs. Hallam and Henry, who for a number 
 of years exerted themselves with much satisfac- 
 tion to please the public. After the death of Mr. 
 Henry, the surviving manager formed a partner- 
 ship with a favourite aud popular performer, 
 under the firm of Hallam and Hodgkinson. 
 Their efforts were soon after aided by the ad- 
 dition of Mr. W. Dunlap, After some time Hal- 
 lam and Hodgkinson withdrew from the con- 
 cern, and Mr. Dunlap commenced sole manager. 
 In this capacity he continued till 1804. During 
 his management of the theatrical concerns, he 
 brought forward many pieces of his own com- 
 positions, as well as several translations from the 
 German. He is now publishing his dramatic 
 works in ten volumes. Mr. Cooper succeeded 
 him in the direction of the theatre, and in his 
 hands it at present remains. The theatre has 
 been built about ten years, and of course em- 
 braces every modern improvement. 
 
 I have seen several of Mr. Cooper's perfor- 
 mances in very arduous characters. In many, 
 he acquitted himself admirably, and he is justly 
 entitled to the high estimation in which he is 
 held throughout the United States. In some of 
 Jiis characters he almost equalled Kemble, whom 
 he appears to imitate: but he could not come 
 up to the arch villainy of Richard the Third so 
 
RICHARD THE THIRD. 153 
 
 admirably depicted by Cooke, who like his great 
 predecessor Macklin, seems fashioned by nature 
 for that and other characters of a similar cast. 
 I cannot help observing here, that it is somewhat 
 remarkable, that the numerous commentators of 
 Shakspcare, who have been so prolific in their 
 annotations upon every word of doubtful tenure, 
 even of the most trifling nature, should have 
 passed over a passage in the last act of Richard 
 the Third ; which, till lately, always appeared to 
 me inexplicable. In the paper which is deliver- 
 ed by the Duke of Norfolk to Richard, just be- 
 fore the battle, and which the latter calls a " thing 
 devised by the enemy!' The Duke is styled Jocky 
 of Norfolk. In all the editions of Shakspeare 
 with the annotations of Stevens, Johnson, War- 
 burton, and others, I have never met with any 
 observations, or found any reason assigned, why 
 the Duke was called a Jockey, as it did not' ap- 
 pear that his grace was particularly fond of horse- 
 racing or hunting : yet such is the sense ift which 
 that appellation has been taken, though I should 
 think very erroneously; since it appears to have 
 originated from the name of his grace, which 
 was John Duke of Norfolk, and in Hollingshed's 
 Chronicles, the two lines run thus: 
 
 <c Jocktl of Norfolk be not too bold 
 
 For Dickon thy matter is bought and sold." 
 
 The error might have originated either from 
 
154 VAUXHALL AND RANELACH. 
 
 mis-spelling in the manuscript, or in the first print- 
 ed copy ; or from the word Jack, being in old 
 times frequently pronounced Jock, as it is in 
 many parts of Scotland at this day. The word 
 Dickon also shows, how christian names are often 
 distorted. I should not have noticed this trifle, 
 had not an allusion been made to the present 
 Duke of Norfolk in some parliamentary debates, 
 about four or five years ago ; in which the words 
 Jock]} of Norfolk were applied in a horse -jockey 
 sense, and a long string of Newmarket puns 
 was run upon them by some of the members. 
 
 New York has its Vauxhall and Ranelagh ; 
 but they are poor imitations of those near Lon- 
 don. They are, however, pleasant places of 
 recreation for the inhabitants. The Vauxhall 
 garden is situated in the Bowery road about two 
 miles from the city hall. It is a neat plantation, 
 with gravel walks adorned wich shrubs, trees, 
 busts, and statues. In the centre is a large eques- 
 trian statue of General Washington. Light mu- 
 sical pieces, interludes, &c. are performed in a 
 small theatre situate in one corner of the gar- 
 dens : the audience sit in what are called the pit 
 and boxes, in the open air. The orchestra is 
 built among the trees, and a large apparatus is 
 constructed for the display of fire- works. The 
 theatrical corps of New-York is chiefly engaged 
 at Vauxhall during summer. The Ranelagh is 
 a large hotel and garden, generally known by 
 
NEW YORK BEFORE THE EMBARGO 155 
 
 the name of Mount Pitt,, situated by the water 
 side, and commanding sonv extensive and beau- 
 tiful views of the city and its environs. 
 
 A great portion of the city, between the Broad- 
 way and tha East river, is very irregularly built; 
 being the oldest part of the town, and of course 
 less capable of those improvements which distin- 
 guish the more recent buildings. Nevertheless, 
 it is the chief seat of business, and contains se- 
 veral spacious streets crowded with shops, stores, 
 and warehouses of every description. The wa- 
 ter side is lined with shipping which lie along the 
 wharfs, or in the small docks called slips, of 
 which there are upwards of twelve towards the 
 East river, besides numerous piers. The wharfs 
 are large and commodious, and the warehouses,, 
 which are nearly all new buildings, are lofty and 
 substantial. The merchants, ship-brokers, &c. 
 have their offices in front on the ground floor of 
 these warehouses. These ranges of buildings 
 and wharfs extend from the grand batter}', on 
 both sides Jhe town, up the Hudson and East 
 rivers : and encompass the houses with shipping, 
 whose forest of masts, gives a stranger a lively 
 idea of the immense trade which this city carries 
 on with every part of the globe. New York ap- 
 pears to him the Tyre of the new world. 
 
 When I arrived at New York, in November, 
 the port was filled with shipping, and the wharfs 
 were crowded with commodities of every de- 
 
156 NEW YORK BEFORE THE EMBARGO. 
 
 scription. Bales of cotton, wool, and merchan- 
 dize ; barrels of pot ash, rice, flour, and salt pro- 
 visions; hogsheads of sugar, chests of tea, pun- 
 cheons of rum, and pipes of wine ; boxes, cases, 
 packs and packages of all sizes and denomina- 
 tions, were strewed upon the wharfs and land- 
 ing places, or upon the decks of the shipping. 
 All was noise and bustle, The carters were 
 driving in every direction ; and the sailors and 
 labourers upon the wharfs, and on board the 
 vessels, were moving their ponderous burthens 
 from place to place. The merchants and their 
 clerks were busily engaged in their counting- 
 houses, or upon the piers. The Tontine coffee- 
 house was filled with underwriters, brokers, mer- 
 chants, traders, and politicians ; selling, purchas- 
 ing, trafficking, or insuring ; some reading, others 
 eagerly inquiring the news. The steps and bal- 
 cony of the coffee-house were crowded with people 
 bidding, or listening to the several auctioneers, 
 who had elevated themselves upon a hogshead of 
 sugar, a puncheon of rum, or a bale of cotton ; 
 and with Stentorian voices were exclaiming : 
 "Once, twice/' " Once, twice" "Another cent" 
 " Thank ye gentlemen," or were knocking down 
 the goods which took up one one side of the street, 
 to the best purchaser. The coffee-house slip, 
 and the corners of Wall and Pearl - streets, 
 were jammed up with carts, drays, and wheel- 
 barrows : horses and men were huddled promis- 
 
MELANCHOLY EFFECTS OF THE EMBARGO. 157 
 
 cuously together, leaving little or no room for 
 passengers to pass. Such was the appearance of 
 this part of the town when I arrived. Every 
 thing was in motion ; all was life, bustle, and 
 activity. The people were scampering in all di- 
 rections to trade with each other, and to ship off 
 their purchases for the European, Asian, Afri- 
 can, and West Indian markets. Every thought, 
 word, look, and action of the multitude seemed 
 to be absorbed by commerce ; the Welkin rang 
 with its busy hum, and all were eager in the pur- 
 suit of its riches. 
 
 But on my return to New York the following 
 April, what a contrast was presented to my view : 
 and how shall I describe the melancholy dejec- 
 tion that was painted upon the countenances of 
 the people, who seemed to have taken leave of all 
 their former gaiety and cheerfulness? The coffee- 
 house slip, the wharfs, and quays along South- 
 street, presented no longer the bustle and ac- 
 tivity that had prevailed there five months before. 
 The port, indeed, was full of shipping ; but they 
 were dismantled, and laid up. Their decks were 
 cleared, their hatches fastened down, and scarcely 
 a sailor was to be seen on board. Not a box, 
 bale, cask, barrel, or package, was to be seen 
 upon the wharfs. Many of the counting houses 
 were shut up, or advertised to be let; and the 
 few solitary merchants, clerks, porters, and la- 
 bourers, that were to be seen, were walking about 
 
158 MELANCHOLY EFFECTS OF THE EMBARGO. 
 
 with their hands in their pockets. Instead of sixty 
 or one hundred carts that used to stand in the 
 street for hire, scarcely a dozen appeared, and they 
 were unemployed ; a few coasting sloops, and 
 schooners, which were clearing' out for some of 
 the ports in the United States, were all (hat re- 
 mained of that immense business which was car- 
 ried on a few months before. The coffee-house 
 was almost empty ; or if there happened to be a 
 few people in it, it was merely to pass away the 
 time which hung heavy on their hands,, or to 
 inquire anxiously after news from Europe, and 
 from Washington: or perhaps to purchase a few 
 bills, that were selling at ten or twelve per cent- 
 above par. In fact, every thing presented a me- 
 lancholy appearance. The streets near the water 
 side were almost deserted, the grass had begun 
 to grow upon the wharfs, and the minds of the 
 people were tortured by the vague and idle ru- 
 mours that were set afloat upon the arrival of 
 every letter from England or from the seat of 
 government. In short, the scene was so gloomy 
 and forlorn, that had it been the month of Sep- 
 tember instead of April, I should verily have 
 thought that a malignant fever was raging in the 
 place ; so desolating were the effects of the em- 
 bargo, which in the short space of five months, 
 had deprived the first commercial city in the 
 States, of all its life, bustle, and activity; caused 
 above one hundred and twenty bankruptcies; and 
 completely annihilated its foreign commerce ! 
 
PLACES OF WORSHIP, 159 
 
 CHAP. XXVIII. 
 
 Places of Worship — Public Buildings-— 'State 
 Prison— Courts of Law — Board of Health— * 
 Quarantine Station — Chamber of Commerce — 
 Inspectors of Lumber, fyc— Commerce of New 
 York — Increase of Commerce — Market Places 
 ■ — Abundance of Provisions — drticles brought 
 to Market — Fly Market — Bare Market — 
 Price of Commodities at New York — Charita- 
 ble Institutions — The Ladies* Society for the 
 Relief of poor Widows, with small Children — 
 The Cincinnati— Medical Society — Protestant 
 Episcopal Society— Columbia College — News- 
 papers — Literary Fair, 
 
 New York contains thirty-three places of 
 worship, viz. nine episcopal churches, three Dutch 
 churches, one French church, one Calvinist, one 
 German Lutheran, one English Lutheran, three 
 Baptist meetings, three Methodist meetings, one 
 Moravian, six Presbyterian, one Independent, 
 two Quakers*, and one Jews' synagogue. 
 
 Besides the public buildings which I have men- 
 tioned, there are numerous banks, insurance com- 
 panies, commercial and charitable institutions, 
 
160 STATE PRISON. 
 
 literary establishments, &c. The new state pri- 
 son is an establishment worthy of imitation in 
 England. By the law of New York, treason, 
 murder, and the procuring, aiding, and abetting 
 any kind of murder, are the only crimes punish- 
 able by death. The mode of execution is the 
 same as in England. All other offences are pu- 
 nished by imprisonment for a certain period in 
 the state prison. This building is situated at 
 Greenwich, about two miles from the City Hall, 
 on the shore of the Hudson river. The space 
 Inclosed by the wall is about four acres, and the 
 prison is governed by seven inspectors appointed 
 by the state council. They meet once a month, 
 or oftener, together with the justices of the su- 
 preme court, the mayor and recorder of the city, 
 the attorney-general, and district attorney. The 
 inspectors make rules for the government of the 
 convicts, and other persons belonging to the 
 prison; and appoint two of their own body to 
 be visiting inspectors monthly. The board of 
 inspectors have charge of the prison, and appoint 
 a keeper, or deputy, and as many assistants as 
 they find to be necessary. The salaries of the 
 keepers are paid out of the treasury of the state. 
 The inspectors, or rather the agents of the prison, 
 are empowered to purchase clothing, bedding, 
 provisions, tools, inplements, and raw or other 
 materials for the employment of the convicts, and 
 keep accounts of the same: also to ogen an 
 
STATE PRISON. 161 
 
 account with each convict, charging him with 
 his expenses,, and crediting him with his labour : 
 and if there should be any balance due to the 
 convict at the time of his discharge, to give him 
 a part or the whole of it ; but if the whole 
 should not be given to him, to convey the residue 
 to the credit of the state. If a convict on enter- 
 ing the prison is unacquainted with any trade, he 
 has the choice of learning one most agreeable to 
 him, I have been told of a man who became a 
 shoe-maker in that prison, and at the end of his 
 time, came out with several hundred dollars in 
 pocket. Hence the country is benefited ; and 
 individuals, instead of being made worse in pri- 
 son, are rendered useful members o£ society, 
 
 The expense of conveying and keeping the 
 convicts is always paid by the state. They are 
 dressed in uniforms of coarse cloth, according to 
 their classes and conduct, and kept at some kind 
 of work. For profane cursing, swearing, inde- 
 cent behaviour, idleness, negligence, disobedience 
 of regulations, or perverse conduct, the principal 
 keeper may punish the convicts by confinement in 
 the solitary cells, and by a diet of bread and wa- 
 ter, during such term as any two of the inspectors 
 advise. For the greater security, there is a de- 
 tachment of firemen allotted to the prison, also 
 an armed guard consisting of a captain, a Ser- 
 jeant, two corporals, a drummer, a fifer, and 
 twenty privates. 
 
 VOL. II. M 
 
162 COURTS OF LAW. 
 
 The laws are administered by the following 
 courts of justice. 
 
 I. The Court for the Trial of Impeachments, 
 and the Correction of Errors. Since the removal 
 of the seat of government to Albany, this court 
 is now held in that place. It is the court of 
 dernier resort, and consists of the president of the 
 senate, for the time being, and the senators, 
 chancellor, and judges of the supreme court, or 
 the major part of them. 
 
 II. The Court of Chancery. This court, con- 
 sisting of the chancellor, is held twice a year, at 
 least in New York, and twice in the city of Al- 
 bany, and at such other times as the chancellor 
 may think proper. Appeals lie from the deci- 
 sions of the chancellor to the tjurt for the cor- 
 rection of errors. 
 
 III. The Supreme Court. This court consists of 
 a chief justice, and four puisne judges, and there 
 are four stated and regular terms. The court 
 appoints circuit courts to be held in the vacation 
 in the several counties, before one of the judges, 
 for the trial of ail causes before a jury. Ques- 
 tions of law which arise on the facts, are argued 
 before the whole court. Writs of error may be 
 brought on the judgments of the supreme court, 
 to the court for the correction of errors. 
 
 IV. The Court of Exchequer. The junior jus- 
 tice in the supreme court ; or, in his absence, any 
 other of the puisne judges, is, ex officio, judge of 
 
COURTS OF LAW. 163 
 
 the court of exchequer, This court is held 
 during the terms of the supreme court, and at 
 the same places. It hears and determines all 
 causes and matters relating to forfeitures for re- 
 cognizances or otherwise, fines, issues, amerce- 
 ments, and debts due to the people of the state. 
 
 V. The Courts of Oyer and Terminer, and ge- 
 neral gaol delivery. These courts are held pur- 
 suant to an act of the legislature, without a spe- 
 cial commission, by one or more of the justices 
 of the supreme court; together with the mayor, 
 recorder, and aldermen of the city, or any three 
 of them, of whom a justice of the supreme court 
 must always be one. They have the power to 
 hear and determine all treasons, felonies, and 
 other crimes and misdemeanors, and to deliver 
 the gaols of all prisoners confined therein. 
 
 VI. The Court of Common Pleas, commonly 
 called the Mayor's Court. This is held before the 
 mayor, alderriiem and recorder, or before the 
 mayor and recorder only. This court hears aud 
 determines all actions, real, personal, or mixed, 
 arising within the city of New York, or within 
 the jurisdiction of the court. Where the sum 
 demanded is above 250 dollars, the cause may be 
 removed, at any time, before the trial, into the 
 supreme court. A writ of error lies from all 
 judgments of this court to the supreme court. 
 
 VII. The Court of General Sessions of the 
 Peace. This court is also held by the mayor. 
 
161 COURTS OF LAW. 
 
 recorder, and aldermen, of whom the mayor or 
 recorder must always be one. Courts of special 
 sessions of the peace may also be held at any time 
 the common council may direct, and may conti- 
 nue as long as the court may think proper for 
 the dispatch of business. These courts have the 
 power to hear and determine all felonies and of- 
 fences committed in the city of New York. 
 There is also a court of special sessions for the 
 trial of petty offences ; which consists of the 
 mayor, recorder and aldermen, 
 
 VIII. The Court of Probates. Since the re- 
 moval of the seat of government to Albany, the 
 judge of this court is required to reside in that 
 city. He has all the powers of jurisdiction rela- 
 tive to testamentary matters, which were for- 
 merly exercised by the governor of the colony, as* 
 judge of the prerogative court, except as to the 
 appointment of surrogates. 
 
 IX. Court of Surrogate. Surrogates are ap- 
 pointed for each county, by the council of ap- 
 pointment, one of which resides and holds his 
 court in the city of New York. They have the 
 sole and exclusive power to take proof of the last 
 wills and testaments of persons deceased, who at 
 the time of their death, were inhabitants of the 
 city, in whatever place the death may have hap- 
 pened. To issue probates, and grant letters of 
 administration of the goods, chattels, and credits 
 of persons dying intestate, or with the wills an- 
 
COURTS OF LAW. 165 
 
 uexed. Appeals from the orders and decrees of 
 the surrogate lie to the court of probates. 
 
 X. District Court of the United States. This 
 court consisting of a single judge., has four regu- 
 lar sessions in a year, and special sessions are 
 held as often as the judge thinks necessary. It 
 has exclusive original jurisdiction of civil causes, 
 of admiralty,, and maritime jurisdiction, including 
 all seizures under the laws of impost, navigation, 
 or trade of the United States, on the high seas, 
 and in the navigable waters, as well as seizures 
 on land within other waters, and all penalties and 
 forfeitures arising under the laws of the United 
 States. It has also jurisdiction, exclusive of the 
 state courts, of all crimes and offences, cognizable 
 under the authority of the United States, com- 
 mitted within the district, or upon the high 
 seas, where no other punishment than whipping, 
 not exceeding thirty stripes, a fine not exceeds 
 ing 100 dollars, or a term of imprisonment not 
 exceeding six months, is to be inflicted. It also 
 has concurrent jurisdiction with the courts of 
 the state, where an alien sues for a tort only, in, 
 violation of the laws of nations, or treaties of the 
 United States ; and where the United States sue, 
 and the matter in dispute does not exceed 100 
 dollars. It has a jurisdiction over the state 
 courts, of all suits against consuls aud vice* 
 consuls. 
 XL TJie Circuit Court of the United States, 
 
166 BOARD OF HEALTH. 
 
 for the district of New York, in the second cir- 
 cuit, is held in the city, on the 1st of April, and 
 the 1st of September in each year. It consists of 
 one of the judges of the supreme court of the 
 United States, and the judge of the district court. 
 It has original cognizance of all civil suits, where 
 the matter in dispute exceeds 500 dollars, and the 
 United States are plaintiffs, or an alien is the 
 party ; or the suit is between citizens of different 
 states. It has exclusive cognizance of all crimes 
 and offences, cognizable under the authority of 
 the United States, except where it is otherwise 
 provided by law ; and a concurrent jurisdiction 
 with the district court of the crimes cognizable 
 therein. 
 
 Of late years a board of health has been esta- 
 blished at New York, under an act of the legis- 
 lature, and a variety of regulations are enjoined, 
 for the purpose of preventing the introduction of 
 malignant fevers. A station is also assigned ou 
 Staten island, where vessels perform quarantine : 
 the buildings which constitute the hospital, are 
 separated from each other, and are capable of 
 accommodating upwards of 300 sick. The situ- 
 ation is extremely pleasant, and well adapted to 
 the purpose. 
 
 There are five banks, and nine insurance com- 
 panies : one of the latter is a branch of the Phoe- 
 nix company of London. There is a chamber of 
 commerce in New York, which has for its object 
 
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 167 
 
 the promotion and regulation of mercantile con- 
 cerns ; and is also a charitable institution for the 
 support of the widows and children of its mem- 
 bers. The origin of this institution is of a sin- 
 gular nature; and proves that n on- intercourse 
 acts, in America* are not: of recent origin. The 
 following is an account of it. 
 
 On the 5th of April, 1768, twenty merchants 
 met in the city of New York, and formed them- 
 selves into a voluntary association, vyhich they 
 called <c The New York Chamber of Commerce." 
 On the 2d of May, 1769, they received a message 
 ol* thanks from the House of Assembly, to the 
 merchants of the city and colony, for their patri- 
 otic conduct in declining the importation of 
 goods from Great Britain at that juncture. The 
 words on this occasion, were the following: "I 
 have it in charge, from the general assembly, to 
 give the merchants of this city and colony, tfa^. 
 thanks of the house,, for their repeated, disinter- 
 ested, public-spirited and patriotic conduct, in 
 declining the importation or receiving of goods 
 from Great Britain, until such acts of parliament 
 as the general assembly had declared unconsti- 
 lutional, and subversive of the rights and liber- 
 ties of the people of this colony, sjiouid be re- 
 pealed." On the 15th of March, 1770, during 
 the administration of Dr. Colden, as lieutenant- 
 governor of the province, a charier was granted 
 to the society, by the name of " The Corporation 
 
168 CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 
 
 of the Chamber of Commerce, in the City Gf 
 New York in America."— They are enabled to 
 hold property not exceeding a clear yearly 
 value of 3,000/. sterling per annum. The objects 
 are to enable them the better to carry into execu- 
 tion., encourage, and promote, by just and lawful 
 ways and means, such measures as tend to pro- 
 mote and extend just and lawful commerce : and 
 to provide for such members as may be hereafter 
 reduced to poverty, their widows and children. 
 
 The merchants, in their address to the gover- 
 nor, for his condescension in allowing the char- 
 ter, observed, among other things, that they are 
 thereby enabled to execute many plans of trade, 
 which, as individuals, they could not before ac- 
 complish ; and promised themselves many and 
 great advantages to the colony from their incor- 
 poration. The chamber by its charter, is autho- 
 rized to make regulations for the government of 
 its officers and members, and for regulating all 
 its other affairs, with penalties for the violation 
 of them. They are also empowered to appoint 
 a committee of five members, at each monthly 
 meeting, to adjust and determine all mercantile 
 disputes, which may be referred to them : and 
 the secretary is directed to cause the names of 
 this monthly committee to be published in one 
 of the public newspapers, for the information of 
 those who may wish to submit any disputes to 
 
CHAMBER OF COMMERCE. 169 
 
 their decision. No person can be admitted as 
 members, but merchants and insurance-brokers. 
 
 The committees must report to the chamber, 
 at the next stated meeting after their time of ser- 
 vice is ended, the several objects of dispute which 
 have been referred to their decision, with the 
 names of the parties, together with the arguments 
 and principles upon which their adjudications 
 have been founded, in order that they may be 
 recorded by the secretary. If the members of the 
 chamber, refuse to submit all disputed matters of 
 accounts between each other, to the final arbitra- 
 tion, and determination either of a monthly com- 
 mittee, or such members as may be chosen by the 
 parties, they may be punished by expulsion. 
 
 Bills of exchange, drawn upon any of the West 
 India islands, Newfoundland, or other foreign 
 possessions in America, and returned protested for 
 non-payment, are liable to 10 per cent, damages, 
 on demand, at the current exchange, when the 
 bill with the protest is presented either to the 
 drawer or indorser thereof. Bills of exchange 
 drawn on any part of Europe, and returned pro- 
 tested, are liable to 20 per cent, damages. The 
 chamber has also published regulations for esti- 
 mating the tonnage of bulky articles, for correct- 
 ing mistakes in freight, and for fixing inland and 
 foreign commissions. By an act of the State le- 
 gislature passed in the) ear 1784, all the privileges 
 
170 INCREASE OF COMMERCE. 
 
 granted in the charter were fully confirmed and 
 perpetuated. 
 
 Inspectors are appointed by the State Council 
 to examine lumber, staves, and heading, pot and 
 peart ashes, sole leather, flour and meal, beef and 
 pork, previous to exportation. Persons shipping 
 the above articles without having them inspected, 
 are liable to heavy penalties. 
 
 The commerce of New York, before the em- 
 bargo, was in a high state of prosperity and pro- 
 gressive improvement. The merchants traded 
 with almost every part of the world, and though 
 at times they suffered some privations and checks 
 from the belligerent powers of Europe, yet their 
 trade increased, and riches continued to pour in 
 upon them. They grumbled, but nevertheless 
 pursued their prosperous career, and seldom 
 failed in realizing handsome fortunes. What & 
 mortifying stroke, then, was the embargo; a 
 measure which obliged them to commit a sort of 
 commercial suicide in order to revenge themselves, 
 of a few lawless acts, which might have been 
 easily avoided, if the merchants had speculated 
 with more prudence. The amount of tonnage 
 belonging to the port of New York in 1806 was 
 183,671 tons. And the number of vessels in the 
 harbour on the 25th of December, 1807, when 
 the embargo took place, was 537. The monies 
 collected in New York for the national treasury, 
 on the imports and tonnage, have for several 
 
MARKETS. 171 
 
 years amounted to one-fourth of the public reve- 
 nue. In 1806 the sum collected was 6,500,C00 
 dollars which after deducting the drawbacks, 
 left a nett revenue of 4,500,000 dollars: which 
 was paid into the treasury of the United States, 
 as the proceeds of one year. In the year 1808, 
 the whole of this immense sum, had vanished! 
 In order to shew how little the Americans have 
 suffered upon the aggregate from Berlin decrees 
 and orders of council ; from French menaces, and 
 British actions ; it is only necessary to state, that 
 in 1803 the duties collected at New York scarcely 
 amounted to 4,000,000 of dollars. And that a! 
 the period of laying on the embargo, at the close of 
 the year 1807, they amounted to nearly 7,000,000 
 dollars. After this it is hardly fair, to complain 
 of the violation of neutral rights ! 
 
 Every day, except Sunday, is a market-day in 
 New York. Meat is cut up and sold by the 
 joint or in pieces, by the licensed butchers only, 
 their agents, or servants. Each of these must 
 sell at his own stall, and conclude his sales by 
 one o'clock in the afternoon, between the 1st of 
 May and the 1st of November, and at two, be- 
 tween the 1st of November and the 1st of May. 
 Butchers are licensed by the mayor, who is clerk 
 of the market. He receives for every quarter of 
 beef sold in the market, six cents ; for every hog, 
 shoat, or, pig above 14 lbs. weight, six cents: and 
 for each calf, sheep or lamb, four cents; to be 
 
172 ARTICLES BROUGHT TO MARKET. 
 
 paid by the butchers and other persons selling 
 the same. To prevent engrossing, and to favour 
 housekeepers, it is declared unlawful for persons 
 to purchase articles to sell again, in any market 
 or other part of the city, before noon of each day, 
 except flour and meal, which must not be bought 
 to be sold again until four in the afternoon; huck- 
 sters in the market are restricted to the sale of 
 vegetables with the exception of fruits. The 
 sale of unwholesome and stale articles of provision • 
 of blown and stuffed meat, and of measly pork, 
 is expressly forbidden. Butter must be sold by 
 the pound, and not by the roll or tub. Persons 
 who are not liscensed butchers, selling butchers' 
 meat on commission, pay treble fees to the clerk 
 of the market. 
 
 The markets are abundantly supplied with 
 every thing in its season, which the land and 
 water affords. In an enumeration made a few 
 years ago by several gentlemen of experience, it 
 appeared that the number of different species of 
 wild quadrupeds brought to market in the course 
 of the year, in whole or in part, alive or dead, 
 was eight; — amphibious creatures, Jive; — shell 
 fish, fourteen ; — birds, fifty -one; — and of fishes 
 proper, sixty-two. Their names are as follow : 
 — Quadrupeds ; bear, deer, raccoon, ground hog, 
 opossum, squirrel, rabbit, hare. Amphibious^ 
 green turtle, hawksbill, loggerhead, snapper, ter- 
 rebin. — Shellfish; oyster, lobster, prawn, crab. 
 
ILY MARKET. 173 
 
 sea crab, cray fish, shrimp, clam, sea clam, soft 
 clam, scollop, grey mussel, black mussel, perri- 
 winklc. — Birds ; wild goose, brant, black duck, 
 grey duck, canvas-back, wood-duck, wigeon, ieik],, 
 broad-bill duck, dipper, sheldrake, old-wife, coote, 
 hell-diver, whistling-diver, redhead, loon, cor-> 
 morant, pilestart, sheerwater, curlew, merlin, 
 willet, woodcock, English snipe, grey snipe, 
 yellow legged snipe, robin snipe, dovertie, small 
 sand snipe, green plover, grey plover, kildare, wild 
 turkey, heath hen, partridge, quail, meadow hen, 
 wild pigeon, turtle dove, lark, robin, large grey 
 snow bird, small blue snow bird, blue jay, yellow 
 tail, clape blackbird, woodpecker, blue crane, 
 white crane. — Fislies ; salmon, codfish, blackfish 
 streaked bass, sea bass, sheepshead, mackarel, 
 Spanish mackarel, horse niackarel, trout, pike, 
 sunfish, lucker, chub, roach, shiner, white, perch, 
 yellow perch, black perch, sturgeon, haddock, 
 pollock, hake, shad, herring, sardine, sprat, 
 manhaden, weak fish, smelt, mullet, bonettq, king- 
 fish, silverfish, porgey, skipjack, angel fish, grunts 
 tusk, red drum, black drum, sheepshead drum, 
 dogfish, killiiish, b'ergall, tommycod, red gurnard, 
 grey gurnard, spearings, garfish, frost fish, blow 
 fish, toad fish, hallibut, flounder, sole, plaice, 
 skait, stingray, common eel, conger eel, lamprey. 
 The principal market in New York is called 
 the Fly market. A name which might, perhaps, 
 lead a stranger to expect a market swarming with 
 
174 
 
 BARE MARKET. 
 
 flies. This, however, is not the real meaning of 
 the term. This part of the city, south-east of 
 Pearl street, was originally a salt meadow, with 
 a creek running through it, from where Maiden- 
 lane now is, to the bay or East river; forming 
 such a disposition of land and water, as was 
 called by the Dutch Vlaie, a valley or wet piece 
 of ground ; when a market was first held there it 
 was called the Vlaie market, from which has ori- 
 ginated the name of Fly market. 
 
 On the west side of the city in Greenwich- 
 street, and between it and the Hudson River, is 
 the market of the second importance. This is 
 known by as odd and whimsical a name as the 
 former. It arose in the following manner : Dur- 
 ing the time the city was in the hands of the 
 British troops in the revolutionary war, a con- 
 siderable portion of the buildings in that neigh- 
 bourhood was burnt down. Soon after the peace, 
 a market was established there, and in the pro- 
 gress of improvementit happened that the market 
 house was finished long before the streets were 
 rebuilt, or the generality of inhabitants re-estab- 
 lished. As there were for a considerable time, 
 but few housekeepers or purchasers, so there was 
 but a small number of sellers of produce to fre- 
 quent this public place ; which led the citizens 
 to distinguish it by the name of Bare market, or 
 the market at which there was little or nothing 
 brought for sale ; and the name is continued t# 
 
PRICE OF COMMODITIES AT NEW YORK. 175 
 
 this day, though it is now situated in the heart 
 of the town, and the supplies are steady and 
 ahundant. Besides these two large markets, 
 there are four others, somewhat smaller, but al- 
 ways well stocked with provisions of every de- 
 scription. 
 
 The price of several commodities before the 
 embargo was as follows, in sterling money : beef 
 6~d. per lb. ; mutton M. ; veal Hd. ; butter 10^.; 
 bread, the loaf of 2j lb. 7d. : cheese 7d. ; 
 turkies 7s. each ; chickens 20d. per couple ; 
 oysters Id. per dozen ; flour 27s. per barrel of 
 196 lbs. ; brandy 4s. 6d. per gallon ; coffee Is. 6d^ 
 per lb. ; green tea 5s. ; best hyson 10s. ; coals 
 70s. per chaldron ; wood 20s. per cord ; a coat 
 11. 10s. ; waiscoat and pantaloons 4/. 10s. ; hat 
 54s. ; pair of boots 54s. ; washing 3s. 6d. per 
 dozen pieces. Price of lodging at genteel board- 
 ing houses, from one guinea and a half to three 
 guineas per week. After the embargo took 
 place, the price of provisions fell to nearly half 
 the above sums, and European commodities rose 
 in proportion. The manufactures of America are 
 yet in an infant state; but in New-York there 
 are several excellent cabinet-makers, coach- 
 makers, &c. who not only supply the country 
 with household furniture and carriages, but also 
 export very largely to the West Indies, and to 
 foreign possessions on the continent of America. 
 Their workmanship would be considered elegant 
 
176 
 
 GAME-LAWS. 
 
 and modern in London, and they have the ad- 
 vantage of procuring mahogany and other wood 
 much cheaper than we. 
 
 Game laws are not wholly unknown in America. 
 There is an act in force for the preservation of 
 heath hens, and oilier game, which was passed 
 in the year 1791. This statute makes it penal to 
 kill any heath hen, within Queen's or Suffolk 
 counties, or any partridge, quail, or woodcock, 
 within Queen's, King's, and New York counties, 
 in the following manner. Heath hen, partridge, 
 and quail are protected by the law from the 1st of 
 April to the 5th of October, and woodcock from 
 the 20th o^ February to the 1 st of July ; they who 
 violate the law are liable to a penalty two dollars 
 and a half for every bird. There is also a society 
 established called the e Brush Club,' for the pur- 
 pose of detecting poachers, and interlopers upon 
 private property. Laws are also passed for the pro- 
 tection of deer; persons violating them are subject 
 to penalties of seven dollars and a half; twenty- 
 live dollars if the deer are killed within thirty 
 rods of any road or highway. 
 
 There are thirty one benevolent institutions in 
 New York. The names of them are as follows:- 
 Tammany Society, Free School, Provident So- 
 ciety, mutual Benefit Society, Benevolent So- 
 ciety, Albion Benevolent Society, Ladies' Society, 
 for the relief of poor widows with small children, 
 Fire Department, New York manufacturing S(*- 
 
CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. 177 
 
 ciety, Society of Mechanics and Tradesmen, the 
 Dispensary, Lying-in Hospital, Sailors' Snug 
 Harbour, Marine Society, Manumission Society, 
 Kine - pock Institution, City Hospital, Alms 
 House, House Carpenter's Society, Bellevue Hos- 
 pital, Marine Hospital at Staten Island, Humane 
 Society, Masonic Society, containing thirteen 
 lodges, German Society, Society of Unitas Fra- 
 trum, First Protestant Episcopal Charity School, 
 St. George's Society, St. Patrick's Society, St. 
 Andrew's Society, the New England Society, the 
 Cincinnati. Most of these institutions are mere 
 benefit societies, resembling those which .are so 
 numerous in England. The Ladies' Society for the 
 relief of poor widows with small children, merit* 
 however, particular notice, since it is an institu- 
 tion most honourable to the character of the ami- 
 able women of that city; and is worthy of imi- 
 tation in Great Britain. 
 
 This association, of which gentlemen cannot be 
 members, though they may be contributors, was 
 commenced in November, 1797, and organized 
 the 29th December following. At their first stated 
 meeting in April, 1798, it was reported that 
 ninety -eight widows with two hundred and twenty- 
 three children, had been brought through the se- 
 verity of winter, with a degree of comfort, who 
 without this interposition, would probably have 
 gone to the alms house, or have perished. Relief 
 is given in necessaries, but never in money, with- 
 
 VOL. II. M 
 
178 THE ladies' SOCIETr. 
 
 out a vote of the directresses at their board. It is 
 not granted in any case until after the applicants 
 shall be visited at their dwellings by one of the 
 managers, and particular inquiry made into their 
 character and circumstances, Immorality ex- 
 cludes from the patronage of the society; neither 
 is relief given to any applicant, who refuses to 
 put out at service or to trades, such of her chil- 
 dren as are fit, and to place the younger ones, of 
 proper age, at a charity school ; unless in very 
 particular cases, of which the board judges. 
 
 The managers are required to exert themselves 
 to create and maintain habits of industry among 
 their applicants, by furnishing them, as far as 
 possible, with suitable employment. White and 
 checked linen has been extensively distributed 
 among the poor widows who could not find em- 
 ployment elsewhere, to be made into shirts, on 
 hire, and afterwards sold by the society at first 
 cost. Tbe ladies were incorporated by an act of 
 the legislature on April 2, 1802, and are allowed 
 to hold an estate of 50,000 dollars, applicable 
 only to the relief of poor widows \ifth small chil- 
 dren. Their affairs are managed by a board of 
 direction, composed of a first and second direc- 
 tress, a secretary, treasurer, and not less than six, 
 nor more than twelve managers, two-thirds of 
 whom make a quorum. Husbands of married 
 women who are members or officers of this cor- 
 poration, are not liable for any loss occasioned 
 
SCCIETIES. 179 
 
 by the neglect or misfeasance of their wives, nor 
 for any subscription or engagement of their wives, 
 except in the case of their having received from 
 their wives, money or property belonging to the 
 corporation. 
 
 The New York Manufacturing Society, was ori- 
 ginally established for the purpose of furnishing 
 employment for the honest and industrious poor; 
 and for several years, spinning, weaving, and 
 some other branches of business, were carried on 
 at their manufactory in Vesey-street. But the 
 experiment did not answer the expectations of 
 the stock holders, and the society discontinued 
 their operations; so that it may now be con- 
 sidered as dissolved. 
 
 The Marine Society, is established for the pur- 
 pose of improving maritime knowledge, and to 
 assist indigent and distressed masters of vessels* 
 their wives, and orphans. They may hold pro- 
 perty not exceeding the yearly value of 3,000/. 
 sterling. 
 
 The Manumission Society, has for its object the 
 mitigation of the evils of negro slavery, to assist 
 free blacks unlawfully kept in slavery, to prevent 
 kidnapping, and to better the condition of negroes, 
 bv teaching them reading, writing, and accounts. 
 They have a free school for black children, whose 
 number is about one hundred. 
 
 The Humane Society, is established for a dif- 
 ferent purpose to that of London, being devoted 
 
 n2 
 
ISO MEDICAL SOCIETY. 
 
 to the relief of distressed debtors confined in the 
 city prison, and for supplying soup to the dis- 
 tressed poor throughout the city, either gratui- 
 tously, or for the small consideration of three bait- 
 pence a quart. 
 
 The Society of Unit as Fratrum, or United Bre- 
 thren, has for its object, the propagation of the 
 gospel among the heathen, and is composed 
 chiefly of Moravians. 
 
 The Society of the Cincinnati,^ ^ established at 
 the close of the revolutionary war. Many of the 
 officers who had meritoriously served their coun- 
 try, on laying down their commissions, returned to 
 their original calling, or some other department 
 of civil life. A respectable number of these, 
 struck with the resemblance of their situation to 
 that of the great Roman dictator Cincinnatus, 
 associated themselves into a body of military 
 friends, which they denominated the society of 
 the Cincinnati. This corps of heroic gentlemen, 
 still preserves its original organization, and holds 
 meetings from time to time, to commemorate 
 public events, perform deeds of beneficence, and 
 to hold converse on the defence of the country. 
 
 There are also two other societies not noticed 
 in the preceding enumeration ; these arc the 
 Medical Society, and the Protestant Episcopal 
 Society for promoting Religion and Learning in 
 the State of New York. 
 
 The first is a corporate body, and was csta- 
 
MEDICAL SOCIETY 181 
 
 bUsbed in 1 806, bj virtue of a law to incorporate 
 medical societies for the purpose of regulating 
 the practice of physic and surgery in the State. 
 By this statute it is declared lawful for these phy- 
 sicians and surgeons (not less than five), who 
 were then authorized by law, to practise in their 
 -several professions, to assemble in their respect- 
 tive counties, and to incorporate themselves t>y 
 choosing a president, vice-president, secretary, 
 and treasurer ; and depositing in the clerk's of- 
 fice, a copy of all their proceedings within the 
 twenty days immediately succeeding the first 
 Tuesday of July, or their other time of meeting. 
 Each county society may hold an estate, real or 
 personal, to the amount of 1000 dollars. A 
 county society, thus organized, is empowered to 
 examine all students, who shall present themselves 
 for that purpose, and to grant them diplomas, 
 which allow the possessor to practise physic and 
 surgery all over the State, Such a society may 
 also appoint a board of censors, consisting of not 
 less than three, nor more than five, whose duty 
 it is to examine students, and report their opinion 
 thereon, in writing, to the president. After the 
 1st of September, 1806, ail persons practising 
 physic and surgery without having undergone an 
 examination, and received a diploma, are debarred 
 from collecting any debts incurred by such prac- 
 tice, in any court of law. 
 
 fhe Protestant Episcopal Society for promos 
 
182 PROTESTANT EPISCOPAL SOCIETY. 
 
 ing Religion and Learning in the State of New 
 York, is established for the following objects :— 
 The members are to be in amity with the Pro- 
 testant Episcopal church; to adopt measures 
 for insuring- a sufficient number and succession 
 of pious and learned ministers of the gospel, at- 
 tached to the doctrines and discipline of the 
 Protestant Episcopal church ; to afford assist- 
 ance to such young men as are of good character 
 and competent abilities, but in circumstances 
 which do not admit of prosecuting the study of 
 divinity without aid ; to encourage those who 
 may distinguish themselves by extraordinary at- 
 tainments ; to receive all donations for pious 
 purposes, and to superintend the application of 
 them ; to provide funds for establishing a theo- 
 logical library ; for the establishment of schools ; 
 and for providing one or more fellowships in 
 Columbia College. In a word, to pursue a sys- 
 tem of measures whereby the situation of the 
 cjergy may be rendered respectable, the church 
 obtain a permanent support, and learning a^id 
 piety be generally diffused throughout the State. 
 Columbia College was incorporated in the year 
 1754. The institution was then called King's 
 College, and was intended for the instruction and 
 education of youth in the learned languages, and 
 liberal arts and sciences. And for their further 
 encouragement the college was authorized to 
 confer such degrees upon the students and other 
 
COLUMBIA COLLEGE. 183 
 
 persons, as are usually granted in the English 
 universities. Under these powers there have been 
 two faculties established in the college, viz. the 
 Faculty of the Arts, and a Faculty of Medicine. 
 
 The former consists of a president, who is also 
 a professor of moral philosophy ; of a professor 
 of classical literature, who also gives lectures on 
 Grecian and Roman antiquities ; of a professor 
 of mathematics, natural philosophy, and astro- 
 nomy, who likewise teaches geography and chro- 
 nology; and of a professor of logic, rhetoric, 
 belles lettres, &c. 
 
 The faculty of physic is composed of a pro- 
 fessor of anatomy and surgery ; of midwifery 
 aud clinical medicine ; of botany and materia, 
 medica ; of the theory and practice of physic, 
 and of chemistry. The annual commencement; 
 is the first Wednesday in August. Lectures are 
 regularly delivered on all these literary, scientific, 
 and professional subjects ; and the profeisors 
 labour with zeal and ability in their several 
 departments. There are some rare books and 
 valuable apparatus belonging to their institution. 
 Since the revolution the seminary has been so 
 far altered, as was necessary to adapt it to the 
 new state of affairs 4 it is now called Columbia 
 College. The trustees have the power of filling 
 up all vacancies in their body, occasioned by 
 •death, removal, or resignation. The income of 
 the college is about 1,500/. but is expected to 
 
184 I/ITLRARY FAta. 
 
 increase with the renewal of some of their expir- 
 ing leases of land. To this college, Mr. Joseph 
 Murray, an eminent counsellor at law, left his 
 large library, and almost the whole of his fortune, 
 amounting to 10,000/. 
 
 There are upwards of twenty newspapers pub- 
 lished in New York, nearly half of which are 
 daily papers ; besides several weekly and monthly 
 magazines or essays. The high price of paper, 
 labour, and taxes in Great Britain, has been 
 very favourable to authorship, and the publica- 
 tion of books in America. Foreign publications 
 are also charged with a duty of 13 per cent. ; 
 and foreign rags are exempted from all impost. 
 These advantages have facilitated the manufac- 
 ture of paper, and the printing of books in the 
 United States ; both which are now carried on 
 to a very large extent. The new works that 
 appear in America, or rather original productions, 
 are very fesv ; but every English work of cele- 
 brity is immediately reprinted in the States, and 
 vended for a fourth of the original price. The 
 booksellers and printers of New York are numer- 
 ous, and in general men of property. Some of 
 them have published very splendid editions of 
 the Bible, and it was not a little gratifying to the 
 American patriot to be told, that the -paper, print- 
 ing, engraving, and binding, were all of American 
 manufacture. For several years past, a literary 
 fair has been held alternately at New York and 
 
PUBLIC LIBRARY. 185 
 
 Philadelphia. This annual meeting of book- 
 sellers has tended greatly to facilitate intercourse 
 with each other,, to circulate books throughout 
 the United States, and to encourage and support 
 the arts of printing and paper making. 
 
 A public library is established at New York, 
 which consists of about ten thousand volumes, 
 many of them rare and valuable books. The 
 building which contains them is situated in Nas- 
 sau street, and the trustees are incorporated by 
 an act of the legislature. There are also three 
 or four public reading rooms, and circulating 
 libraries, which are supported by some of the 
 principal booksellers, from the annual subscrip- 
 tions of the inhabitants. There is a museum of 
 natural curiosities in New York, but it contains 
 nothing worthy of particular notice. 
 
188 NUMRER OF DEATHS. 
 
 CHAP. XXX. 
 
 Jtf umber of deaths at New York — Mode of living 
 in America— f he Yelloxv Fever — Population of 
 New York — Deaths — Church Yards — Fune- 
 rals—Society of New York — Elegant Women 
 * — French and English Dresses — Fine Figures. 
 Delicate Complexions — Bad Teeth, a ground- 
 less Charge — Education — Thirst after Know- 
 ledge — Arts and Sciences — Literal urer— Taste 
 for Reading — Salmagundi — The Echo — Bar- 
 low's Columbiad — Smoking— Style of Living at 
 New York— Splendid Marriages — Great For- 
 tunes — Anecdote of a Sailor— Quakers' Meet- 
 ing^rQuakers — Anecdote of a Jew — Singing 
 Schools. 
 
 It does not appear that the malignant or yellow 
 fever, made very great ravages among the inha- 
 bitants in 1805, the last time of its appearance 
 in New York ; for the deaths very little exceeded 
 the preceding and subsequent years. 
 
 In 1804 the deaths were 2,064 
 
 1805 2,352 
 
 1806 2,252 
 
 Of the above number, fifty- one were sui~ 
 
MODE OF LIVING IN AMERICA. 187 
 
 tides ; and according to the statement of Dr. 
 Mitchill, upwards of one-third of the deaths ate 
 occasioned by consumption and debility. To 
 the influence of moisture and the sudden changes 
 of the weather, has been attributed the preva- 
 lence of nervous disorders and debility, among a 
 great number of the inhabitants of the United 
 States. Much may, no doubt, be ascribed to 
 those causes ; but I think the mode of living has 
 a more immediate effect upon the human frame 
 than even the climate of a country. The higher 
 and middling classes of the Americans who reside 
 chiefly in the great towns, or their neighbour- 
 hood, live, generally speaking, in a more luxu- 
 rious manner than the same description of peo- 
 ple in England. Not that their tables are more 
 sumptuously furnished on particular occasions, 
 than ours; but that their ordinary meals consist 
 of a greater variety of articles, many of which, 
 from too frequent use, may perhaps become per- 
 nicious to the constitution. The great consump- 
 tion of green tea, which we reckon the most un- 
 wholsome, inconsequence ( as it is said ) of its being 
 dried upon -copper, is most likely very injurious 
 to the constitution. The Americans use scarcely 
 any other than this tea, while in England, the 
 souchong, and other black teas, are most in 
 request. The constant use of cjgars by the 
 young men, evca from an early age, may also 
 tend to impair the constitution, and create a sti- 
 
I8S MODE OF LIVING IN AMERICA. 
 
 inulus beyond that which nature requires, or is 
 capable of supporting. Their dread of the yellow 
 fever has induced a more frequent use of tobacco 
 of late years ; but it is now grown into a habit 
 that will not be readily parted with. The other 
 classes of the community who reside in the inte- 
 rior, and back parts of the country, are often 
 obliged to live upon salt provisions, the greatest 
 part of the year, and sometimes on very scanty 
 fare; besides which, they generally dwell in mise- 
 rable log huts, incapable of defending them effec- 
 tually from the severity of the weather. Those 
 who have the means of living better, are great 
 eaters of animal food, which is introduced at 
 every meal ; together with a variety of hot cakes, 
 and a profusion of butter : all which may more 
 or less tend to the introduction of bilious disor- 
 ders, and perhaps lay the foundation of those 
 diseases which prove fatal in hot climates. The 
 effects of a luxurious or meagre diet are equally 
 injurious to the constitution, and together with 
 the sudden and violent changes of the climate, 
 may create a series of nervous complaints, con- 
 gumption, and debility, which in the states bor- 
 dering on the Atlantic, carry off at least one third 
 of the inhabitants in the prime of life. 
 
 The malignant or yellow fever, generally com- 
 mences in the confined parts of the town, near 
 the water side, in the mouth of August or Sep- 
 tember. It is commonly supposed to have been 
 
YELLOW FEVER. 189 
 
 introduced by the French refugees from St. Do- 
 mingo, during the French revolution; though 
 some are of opinion that it originated in the 
 states; and many physicians were puzzling their 
 brains about its origin, at a time when they 
 ought to have been devising means to stop its 
 ravages. As soon as this dreadful scourge makes 
 its appearance in New York, the inhabitants shut 
 up their shops, and fly from their houses into the 
 country. ThoBe who cannot go far, on account 
 of business, remove to Greenwich, a small village 
 situate on the border of the Hudson river, about 
 two or three miles from town. Here the mer- 
 chants and others have their offices, and carry 
 on their concerns with little danger from the fever, 
 which does not seem to be contagious beyond a 
 certain distance. The banks and other public of- 
 fices, also remove their business to this place : 
 and markets are regularly established for the 
 supply of the inhabitants. Very few are left in 
 the confined parts of the town except the poorer 
 classes, and the negroes. The latter not being 
 affected by the fever, are of great service at that 
 dreadful crisis ; and are the only persons who 
 can be found to administer the hazardous duties 
 of attending the sick, and burying the dead. 
 Upwards of 26,000 people removed from the in- 
 terior parts of the city, and from the streets near 
 the water side, in 1805. Since then, the town 
 has happily been free from luat dreadful scourge ; 
 
190 POPULATION OF NEW YORK. 
 
 and from the salutary regulations which have since 
 been adopted, it is to be hoped, that it will never 
 make its appearance again. The finest cities in 
 America were no doubt preserved from depopu- 
 lation, during the prevalence of the fever, by the 
 timely retreat of the inhabitants into the country. 
 It were to be wished that the same practice was 
 permitted in Spain, and other parts of the conti- 
 nent, which are sometimes visited by pestilential 
 fevers, instead of surrounding the towns by a 
 cordon of troops, and cutting oft 1 all communi- 
 cation between the unfortunate inhabitants and 
 the country. 
 
 The following census of the population of 
 New York, was taken in 1807, and laid before 
 the mayor, aldermen, and cominoualty of the 
 city, in 1808. 
 
POPULATION OF NEW YORK. 
 
 191 
 
 
 ^ 82 
 
 COrJ-^-COO<N^*£jcO 
 
 J> 
 
 
 73 o 
 
 o 
 
 . 
 
 £1 
 
 O O ^ CO GTi ^r "* O CO 
 
 "* 
 
 \4 
 
 ^ ^r i-? p-T ~ ^r co J? 
 
 « 
 
 g 
 
 
 "* 
 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 ° 1 ^ X 
 
 
 
 
 £ £ ~ " I? 
 
 •O | -< TfCQCO ^ | C* 
 
 CN 
 
 fa 
 
 ^llli 
 
 
 
 o 
 
 «) fli ri -*- 1 ?"> . 
 
 ^r? ^ £ « 2 
 fa ^ £ <u ^ 
 
 w *•>. OYO Oi co oo «o tJ< 
 
 ao 
 
 Q^H fl S **»<*-■ 
 
 <♦ 
 
 3 
 
 C C £> G O 
 
 t>» CO t - '»Ci , T'-^^t>*'-i 
 
 CO 
 
 
 -T i-T <s 
 
 Oi 
 
 -a *- >-. 
 
 
 
 fa 
 O 
 
 0) o <u 
 
 S3 3 
 
 to O , 
 
 O -G t3 
 
 
 
 SS5 
 
 I 1 H I Tf I lO©TJ» 
 
 O 
 
 O 
 
 a. 9 g 
 
 •*- HH ~^ O 
 
 11 1 1 
 
 >3 
 P 
 
 fa 
 
 o 
 
 fa 
 
 /-> v*^ c o 
 
 Hots-. 
 
 
 
 I l i T3 
 
 wj cu re c 
 
 fa Sm 
 
 rf in N-* IS COM C^ 00 
 
 o 
 
 • w »o co ^o co »o — O 'o 
 
 '-" 
 
 3 
 
 C0COCOC0 T TCM , «tCC'— 
 
 o^ 
 
 Ci ^ tc 1 *; « 
 
 
 CO 
 
 w « 2 S 2- 
 
 
 
 p 
 
 . 
 
 
 H 
 
 <n 
 
 
 
 Q 
 
 « I 
 
 <# »H C^'O O -• t^l^'O 
 
 O 
 
 co 
 
 ioioOcocoCOXO<N 
 c> »o *> C> t > X "* <0 q> 
 
 CO 
 
 r o 3 
 
 io 
 
 rj 
 
 tC i^! t> o^ ei a c£ o r* 
 
 CO 
 
 ao 
 
 3 
 
 O 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 b 
 
 'ft 
 
 O KO N© Mi" «0 'O 
 
 CO 
 
 > 
 
 KCSO-t^^CSO^t 
 
 i->. 
 
 X 
 
 C0'-i'^-i^-i-<»-t — CN 
 
 K 
 
 fa 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 H 
 
 
 
 
 in 
 
 •t "* W Ci« O^JO ClO 
 
 ^J 
 
 <L> G 
 
 OOMCOOOt'O'OCO 
 
 »o 
 
 
 <^ O 
 
 *o tp co O^ o r^. co Oi o 
 
 lN - 
 
 fa 
 
 o 
 
 a, 
 fa 
 
 ^ ^ W Oi <N c£ C?i to" CN 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 j 
 
 £ 
 
 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 55 
 
 M 
 
 ii i i i i l i i 
 
 1 i 
 
 M 
 
 IS 
 
 -a js "2 .a - 
 
 i 
 
 U 
 
 $ 
 
 £ u 'G k cG t< > bH.G 
 
 _c > 
 
192 POPULATION OF NEW YORK. 
 
 Of the preceding number of inhabitants 42,881 
 are females, and 40,649 are males: making a 
 total of 83,530. In 1805 the population of New 
 York was 75,770, thus in the course of one year 
 and ten months there has been an increase of in- 
 habitants to the amount of 7,760: and within 
 the same period, the number of slaves has de- 
 creased 272. The following table exhibits the 
 population of this city at different periods from 
 its earliest settlement. 
 In the year 1697 there were 4,302 inhabitants. 
 
 1756 . . . 15,000 
 
 1771 . . . 21,863 
 
 1786 . . . 23,614 
 
 1791 . . . 33,131 
 
 1801 . . . 60,489 
 
 1805 . . . 75,770 
 
 1807 . . . 83,530 
 Hence it appears, that the population of Now 
 York has, in a period of twenty years from 1786 
 to 1805, more than tripled itself; and should the 
 population continue to increase at the rate of 
 five per cent, per annum, it will in 1855, amount 
 to 705,650, a population nearly equal to that of 
 Paris. At this day it is equal to the whole num- 
 ber of inhabitants in the State of New York fifty 
 years ago. 
 
 If any estimate can be formed of the salubrity 
 of the climate, and the healthiness of the inha- 
 bitants of a town, by the number of deaths. 
 
CHUKCH YARDS. . 193 
 
 London must be reckoned to have the advantage 
 of New York in those respects. The amount of 
 deaths in the former city is about a fiftieth part 
 of its population, while in New York it is at 
 least one thirtieth; the number of deaths rang- 
 ing between 2/500 and 3,000 per annum. I am, 
 however, more inclined to attribute this great 
 mortality, to improper diet and mode of living, 
 than to the insalubrity of the climate. The 
 church-yards and vaults are also situate in the 
 heart of the town, and crowded with the dead* 
 If they are not prejudical to the health of the 
 people, they are, at least, very unsightly exhibi- 
 tions. One would think there was a scarcity of 
 land in America, by seeing such large pieces of 
 ground in one of the finest streets of New York, 
 occupied by the dead. But even if no noxious 
 effluvia were to arise (and I rather suspect there 
 must in the month of July, August, and Septem- 
 ber), still the continual view of such a crowd of 
 white and brown tomb-stones and monuments, as 
 is exhibited in the Broadway, must, at the sickly 
 season of the year> tend very much to depress 
 the spirits, which should rather be cheered and 
 enlivened ; for at that period, much is effected 
 by the force of imagination. There is a large 
 burying ground a short distance out of town; 
 but the cemeteries in the city are still used at 
 certain periods of the year. 
 
 They bury their dead within twenty-four 
 voi,. II. o 
 
194 
 
 FUN ER ATS. 
 
 hours ; a custom probably induced by the heat 
 of the climate during the summer months: but 
 I see no reason why it should be extended to the 
 winter months, which are cold enough to allow 
 of the dead being kept for three or four days, if 
 nothing else prevents it. While I was at New 
 York, a young gentleman, a native of Great Bri- 
 tain, who had settled in that city, died suddenly r 
 one evening, at the house of an American gen- 
 tleman, to whose daughter he was paying his ad- 
 dresses. It was a most distressing scene for the 
 young lady, for he dropped down at the very mo- 
 ment he was kneeling before her in a playful 
 mood. The young man was taken home to the 
 house where he lodged, and before four o'clock^ 
 the next afternoon, he was interred. My motive 
 for mentioning this circumstance, is, because, I 
 understood that when they went to screw the 
 coffin down, he bled at the nose ; and that the 
 pillow upon which his head reclined, was warm ; 
 notwithstanding which, he was buried, without 
 any means being tried to restore him ! I cannot 
 but think this was a very culpable omission on 
 the part of his friends, considering the sudden 
 manner in which he had apparently been de- 
 prived of life. 
 
 Funerals at New York, as well as in almost 
 every other part of the United States, are attend- 
 ed by a numerous assemblage of the friends and 
 acquaintances of the deceased, who are invited, 
 
SOCIETY OF NEW YORK. 195 
 
 by advertisements in the newspapers, to attend 
 their departed friend to the grave. On such 
 occasions I have seen upwards of five hundred 
 people, and the larger the number, the more 
 the deceased is supposed to be respected and 
 valued. I cannot help thinking, however, that 
 these numerous meetings savour somewhat of 
 ostentation, though certainly there is no parade 
 of hearses, nodding plumes, and mourning 
 coaches. The people attend, for the most part 
 in their ordinary dress, except those who are 
 nearly related, or particularly intimate with the 
 deceased. The clergyman, physician, and chief 
 mourners, wear white scarfs, which it is also the 
 custom to wear on the following Sunday. The 
 deceased is interred with or without prayers, ac- 
 cording to the faith he professed. 
 
 The Society of New York, consists of three 
 distinct classes. The first is composed of the 
 constituted authorities and government officers ; 
 divines, lawyers, and physicians of eminence; the 
 principal merchants, and people of independent 
 property. The second comprizes the small mer- 
 chants, retail dealers, clerks, subordinate officers 
 of the government, and members of the three 
 professions. The third consists of the inferior 
 orders of the people. The first of these associate 
 together in a style of elegance and splendour, 
 little inferior to Europeans. Their houses are 
 furnished with every thing that is useful, agree- 
 
 o2 
 
196 FINE FIGURES- 
 
 able, or ornamental ; and many of them aTe fitted 
 up in the tasteful magnificence of modern style. 
 The dress of the gentlemen is plain, elegant, 
 and fashionable ; and corresponds in every respect 
 with the English costume. The ladies in general 
 seem more partial to the light, various, and 
 dashing drapery, of the Parisian belles, than to 
 the elegant and becoming attire of our London 
 beauties, who improve upon the French fashions. 
 But there are many who prefer the English cos- 
 tume, or at least a medium between that and the 
 French. 
 
 In walking the Broadway, some mornings I 
 have been frequently tempted to believe, while 
 admiring the beautiful forms that passed in review 
 before me, that there existed a sort of rivalry 
 among the New York beauties, as there did 
 about a century ago, among the ladies of Eng- 
 land ; and that instead of a patch on the right or 
 left cheek, to denote a Whig or a Tory,methought 
 I could discern a pretty Democrat a la mode 
 Franchise, and a sweet little Federalist a la mode 
 Angloise. I know not whether my surmises were 
 just; but it is certain that Mrs. Toole and Ma- 
 dame Bouchard, the two rival leaders of fashion 
 in caps> bonnets, feathers, flowers, muslin, and 
 lace, have each their partizans and admirers : 
 one because she is an Englishwoman, and the 
 other because she is French ; and if the ladies 
 are not really divided in opinion as to politics, 
 
BAD TEETH, A GROUNDLESS CHARGE. 197 
 
 they arc most unequivocally at issue with respect 
 to dress. 
 
 The young ladies of New York, are in general 
 handsome, and almost universally fine, genteel 
 figures. Though I am not inclined, like their 
 sly eastigator Anthony Evergreen, to attribute 
 their fine forms to pickles and the vinegar-cruet ; 
 yet they certainly are too fond of tight lacing, 
 and compressing their waists between steely stay 
 tafK, and zvhalcbone. Fair complexions, regular 
 features, and fine forms, seem to be the prevailing 
 characteristics of the American fair sex. They 
 do not, however, enjoy their beauty for so long a 
 period as Englishwomen, neither do they possess 
 the blooming countenance and rosy tinge of health 
 so predominant among our fair countrywomen, 
 whose charms never stand in need of cosmetics. 
 The beauty of the American women partakes 
 more of the lily than the rose ; though the soft 
 glow of the latter is sometimes to be met with. 
 Their climate, however, is not so favourable to 
 beauty as that of England, in consequence of the 
 excessive heat, and violent changes of the weather 
 peculiar to America. I must not omit to mention, 
 injustice to the American fair, that I saw but 
 very few, who had recourse to rouge for the pur- 
 pose of heightening their charms. 
 
 Most travellers who have visited America, have 
 charged the ladies of the United States, univer- 
 sally, with having bad teeth. Tins accusation 
 
198 BAD tEETH, A GROUNDLESS CHARGE. 
 
 is certainly very erroneous, when applied to the 
 whole of the fair sex, and to them alone. That 
 the inhabitants of the States are often subject to a 
 premature loss of teeth, is allowed by themselves, 
 and the cause has even been discussed in the 
 papers read before the American Philosophical 
 Society ; but it does not particularly attach to the 
 females, who, as far as I have been able to judge, 
 are much more exempt from that misfortune than 
 the men. Indeed most of the young ladies I 
 met with during my tour through the country, 
 had in general excellent teeth : some in particu- 
 lar were extremely even and regular ; and as 
 white as ivory. — One instance of this, I met with 
 in Miss M— - — , a handsome young quakeress, 
 the daughter of the lady at whose house I boarded. 
 If Mr. Moore had had the good fortune to have 
 seen her ivory teeth, her ruby lips, and blooming 
 countenance, he would not have so coolly said— 
 
 " Some cavillers — 
 Object to sleep with fellow travellers 3 
 But Saints protect the pretty quaker, 
 Heaven forbid that I should wake he 
 
 It must be evident that the accusation has 
 originated in misrepresentation, or calumny; and 
 because some have been found who had indifferent 
 teeth, the whole of the American fair sex, have 
 been branded with a charge, that at the utmost 
 can only apply individually, From constant 
 
BAD TEETH, A GROUNDLESS CHARGE. 199 
 
 repetition by travellers, who have not taken the 
 trouble to judge for themselves, or to investigate 
 the truth of former accounts, bad teeth have now 
 become, in the opinion of Europeans, a national 
 characteristic of the American ladies; when the 
 fact is, that it is as far removed from the truth as 
 those estimates which we form of the character 
 of a whole nation from the conduct of a few indi- 
 viduals belonging to it. The Englishman is all 
 gloominess and brutality — the Frenchmen all 
 amiability and politeness — the German all clown- 
 ish ness and drunkenness — the Spaniard all gra- 
 vity and haughtiness. — Yet few persons will 
 allow that these are correct characters of those 
 people; on the contrary, whatever they might 
 have been ages past, they are now considered only 
 as vulgar errors. 1 have been anxious to rescue th« 
 American fair from so foul an aspersion, because, 
 as far as I had an opportunity of judging, during 
 my stay in the country, I do not think they 
 ever merited it ; and I am fully persuaded, that if 
 they do net injwe the personal charms which 
 nature has so lavishly bestowed upon them, 
 by the ridiculous vagaries of fashion, improper 
 living, or careless exposure to the vicissitudes of 
 ■the climate, their appearance will completely 
 refute the illiberal and unhandsome assertions of 
 foreigners. 
 
 Much has also been said of the deficiency of 
 the polite and liberal accomplishments among 
 
£00 EDUCATION. 
 
 both sexes in the United States. Whatever truth 
 there may have formerly been in this statement, 
 I do not think there is any foundation for it at 
 present, at least in New York, where there ap- 
 pears to be a great thirst after knowledge. The 
 riches that have flowed into that city, for the last 
 twenty years, have brought with them a taste for 
 the refinements of polished society; and though 
 the inhabitants cannot yet boast of having reached 
 the standard of European perfection, they are not 
 wanting in the solid and rational parts of educa- 
 tion ; nor in many of those accomplishments 
 which ornament and embellish private life. It 
 lias become the fashion in New York to attend 
 lectures on moral philosophy, chemistry, mine- 
 ralogy, botany, mechanics, &c; and the ladies in 
 particular have made considerable progress in 
 those studies. Many young men who were so 
 enveloped in business, as to neglect, or disdain 
 the pursuit of such liberal and polite acquire- 
 ments, have been often laughed from the counts 
 ing-house to the lecture-room by their more ac- 
 complished female companions; The desire for 
 instruction and information, indeed, is not con- 
 fined to the youthful part of the community ; 
 many married ladies and their families may be 
 seen at philosophical and chemical lectures, and 
 the spirit of inquiry is becoming more general 
 among the gentlemen. The majority of the mer- 
 chants, however, still continue more partial to 
 
ARTS AND SCIENCES. 201 
 
 the rule of three, than a dissertation upon oxy- 
 gen or metaphysics. Most of them have aco/iired 
 large fortunes by their regular and plodding 
 habits of business, and loath to part with any por- 
 tion of it, at their time of life, in the purchase 
 of knowledge, or the encouragement of the arts 
 and sciences. Some, it must be allowed, are ex- 
 ceptions^ and others, if they will not partake of 
 instruction themselves, are not sparing of their 
 money, in imparting it to their children. The 
 immense property which has been introduced 
 into the country by commerce, has hardly had 
 time to circulate and diffuse itself through the 
 community. It is at present too much in the 
 hands of a few individuals, to enable men to de- 
 vote the whole of their lives to the study of the 
 arts and sciences. Farmers, merchants, physi- 
 cians, lawyers, and divines, are all that America 
 can produce for many years to come ; and if 
 authors, artists, or philosophers make their ap- 
 pearance at any time, they must, as they have 
 hitherto done, spring from one of the above pro-* 
 fessions. 
 
 Colleges and schools are multiplying very ra- 
 pidly all over the United States; but education is 
 in many places still defective, in consequence of 
 the want of proper encouragement, and better 
 teachers. A grammar-school has recently been 
 instituted at New York, for the instruction of 
 youth, upon a similar plan to the great public 
 
202 LITERATURE. 
 
 schools in England. This seminary, says an Ame- 
 rican writer, is founded on the principle of train- 
 ing the students to become sound and accurate 
 classical scholars, according to the old plan of 
 acquiring the elements of ancient learning by 
 grammar ; discarding the learning by rote. The 
 success of this institution will compel the col- 
 leges to adopt a less superficial and defective plan 
 of instruction ; and it will follow that, when once 
 liberal and sound education is permanently in- 
 troduced, literature will revive ; the trading spi- 
 rit will be checked or modified ; literary rewards 
 and honours will flow rapidly, and the puplic 
 will eventually become the promoters of genius 
 and learning, by creating an extensive demand 
 for books. 
 
 A taste for reading has of late diffused itself 
 throughout the country, particularly in the great 
 towns ; and several young ladies have displayed 
 their abilities in writing. Some of their novels 
 and fugitive pieces of poetry and prose are writ- 
 ten with taste and judgment. Two or three at 
 New York have particularly distinguishea/them- 
 selves. It seems, indeed, that the fair sex of 
 America have, within these few years, been desir- 
 ous of imitating the example of the English and 
 ^French ladies, who have contributed so much to 
 extend the pleasures of rational conversation, and 
 intellectual enjoyment. They have cast away 
 the frivolous and gossipping tittle tattle, which 
 
SALMAGUNDI — ECHO. 203 
 
 before occupied so much of their attention ; and 
 assumed the more dignified and instructive dis- 
 course upon arts, sciences, literature., and moral 
 philosophy. 
 
 Many of the young men, too, whose minds have 
 not been wholly absorbed by pounds, shillings, 
 and pence, have shewn that they possess literary 
 qualifications and talents, that would, if their 
 time and fortune permitted, rank them among 
 some of the distinguished authors of Europe. 
 The most prominent of their late productions is 
 the Salmagundi, published in monthly essays at 
 New York. This little work has been deservedly 
 a great favourite with the public, and bids fair to 
 be handed down with honour to posterity. It 
 possesses more of the broad humour of Rabelais 
 and Swift, than the elegant morality of Addison 
 and Steele, and therefore less likely to become a 
 classical work; but as a correct picture of the 
 people of New York, and other parts of the 
 country, though somewhat heightened by cari- 
 cature, and as a humourous representation of their 
 manners, habits, and customs, it will always be 
 read with interest by a native of the United 
 States. In a subsequent chapter, I shall take 
 the opportunity of presenting my readers with a 
 few extracts from this entertaining little work. 
 
 A publication called the Echo, is a smart pro- 
 duction of detached poetry, commenced for the 
 purpose of satirizing the vices and follies of the 
 
204 DANCING, 
 
 political factions of the day, who broached their 
 revolutionary dogmas through the medium of the 
 public prints. Several other publications of merit 
 have originated in America, and are well known 
 in England. Sir. Barlow's Columbiad has lately 
 made its appearance in a very splendid form. It 
 is an enlargement of his vision of Columbus. 
 Upon this poem I shall offer some remarks in the 
 chapter containing biographical notices of the 
 leading public characters of America. 
 
 Dancing is an amusement that the New York 
 ladies are passionately fond of, and they are said 
 to excel those of every other city in the union. I 
 \isited the City Assembly, which is held at the 
 City Hotel in the Broadway, and considered as 
 the best in New York. It was the first night of 
 the season, and there were not more than one 
 hundred and fifty persons present. I did not 
 perceive any thing different from an English as- 
 sembJy,exceptthe cotillions, which were danced in 
 an admirable manner, alternately with the country 
 dances. Several French gentlemen were present and 
 figured away in the cotillions with considerable 
 taste and agility. The subscription is two dollars 
 and a half for each night and includes tea, coffee, 
 and a cold collation. None but the first class of 
 society can become subscribers to this assembly. 
 Another has, however, been recently established, 
 in which the genteel part of the second class are 
 admitted, who were shut out from the City As-, 
 
STYLE OF LIVING AT NEW YORK. 203 
 
 Sembly. A spirit of jealousy and pride has caused 
 the subscribers of the neiv assembly to make their 
 subscription three dollars, and to have their balls 
 also at the City Hotel. It was so well conducted, 
 that many of the subscribers of the City Assembly 
 seceded, and joined the opposition one; or sub- 
 scribed to both. 
 
 Many of the young ladies are well accomplish- 
 ed in music and drawing, and practise them with 
 considerable success; but they do not excel in 
 those acquirements, as they do in dancing. Among 
 the young men these accomplishments are but 
 little cultivated. Billiards and smoking seem 
 to be their favourite amusements. A cigar is in 
 their mouth from morning to night, when in the 
 house, and not unfrequently when walking the 
 street. A box full is constantly carried in the 
 coat pocket, and handed occasionally to a friend, 
 as familiarly as our dashing youths takeout their 
 gold box, and offer a 'pinch of snuff. 
 
 Billiards are played with two red balls. This 
 is called the American game, and differs in no 
 other respect, from the mode of playing in Eng- 
 land . New York contains several excellent tables. 
 
 The style of living in New York is fashionable 
 and splendid, many of the principal merchants 
 and people of property, have elegant equipages, 
 and those who have none of their own, may be 
 accommodated with handsome carriages and 
 Jiorses at the livery stables; for there are no 
 
206 SPLENDID MARRIAGES, 
 
 coach stands. The winter is passed in a round of 
 entertainments and amusements ; at the theatre, 
 public assemblies, philosophical and experimen- 
 tal lectures, concerts, balls, tea ar,d card parties, 
 cariole excursions out of town, &c. The Ame- 
 rican cariole, or sleigh is much larger than that 
 of Canada, and will hold several people. It is 
 fixed upon high runners, and drawn by two horses 
 in the curricle style. Parties to dinner and dances 
 are frequently made in the winter season when 
 the snow is on the ground. They proceed in ca- 
 rioles a few miles out of town to some hotel or ta- 
 vern, where the entertainment is kept up to a late 
 hour, and the parties return home by torch light. 
 
 Marriages are conducted in the most splendid 
 style, and form an important part of the winter's 
 entertainments. For some years it was the fashion 
 to keep them only among a select circle of friends ; 
 but of late the opulent parents of the new married 
 lady, have thrown open their doors, and invited 
 the town to partake of their felicity. The young 
 couple, attended by their nearest connexions and 
 friends, are married at home in a magnificent 
 style, and if the parties are episcopalians, the 
 bishop of New York is always procured, if pos- 
 sible ; as his presence gives a greater zest to the 
 nuptials. For three days after the marriage cere- 
 mony, the new married couple see company in 
 great state, and every genteel person, who can 
 procure an introduction, may pay bis respects to 
 
SPLENDID MARRIAGES. 207 
 
 the bride and bridegroom. It is a sort of levee ; 
 and the visitors, after their introduction, partake 
 of a cup of coffee or other refreshment, and walk 
 away. Sometimes the night concludes with a 
 concert and ball, or cards, among those friends 
 and acquaintance who are invited to remain. 
 
 Several young ladies in New York have for- 
 tunes of a hundred, or a hundred and fifty thou- 
 sand dollars ; and often bestow their hand upon 
 a favourite youth, who has every thing to recom- 
 mend him but money. Two or three instances 
 of the kind occurred while I was in the States. 
 I understand that unhappy marriages are by no 
 means frequent ; and that parents are not apt to 
 force the inclinations of their children from ava- 
 ricious motives. Summer affords the inhabitants 
 the diversions of hunting, shooting, fishing, and 
 horse racing ; excursions upon the water, to the 
 island, in the bay, and to Sandy Hook, and a 
 variety of beautiful tours within twenty miles of 
 the city. Among the most distinguished are 
 those of New Utrecht, Rockaway, Islip, thePas- 
 saick Falls, and Kingsbridge. A place called 
 Ballston within two-hundred miles of New York 
 in the interior of the state, contains some mineral 
 springs; and of late years has become a fashion- 
 able place of resort for invalids. Like most 
 places of that kind in England, it is visited by the 
 gentry, who go there more for amusement and 
 fashion than to drink the waters. Ballston pos- 
 
2GS ANECDOTE OF A SAILOR, 
 
 sesses but few natural attractions, except its mi- 
 neral springs. 
 
 The inhabitants of New York are not remark- 
 able for early rising", and little business seems to 
 be done before nine or ten o'clock. Most of the 
 merchants and people in business dine about two 
 o'clock, others who are less engaged, about 
 three : but four o'clock is usually the fashionable 
 hour for dining. The gentlemen are partial to 
 the bottle, but not to excess; and at private din- 
 ner parties they seldom sit more than two hours 
 drinking wine. They leave the table, one after 
 the other; and walk away to some tea party s 
 without bidding their host good afternoon. The 
 servants are mostly negroes or mulattoes, some 
 free, and others slaves : but there are many white 
 servants of both sexes ; and whoever expects to 
 see a pure republican equality, existing in Ame- 
 rica, wiil find themselves greatly mistaken. 
 
 The embargo had a considerable effect upon 
 the amusements of the people, and rendered the 
 town gloomy and melancholy. The sailors, how- 
 ever, belonging to the shipping in port, had a 
 holiday, and while their money lasted, amused 
 themselves with fiddling, dancing, and carous- 
 ing with their girls. Many of them essayed their 
 equestrian powers upon the backs of some gin- 
 gered rozinantes, which frequently compelled 
 them to throw a somerset over their horses' heads. 
 I was told of one who carried with him a small 
 
QUAKERS' MEETING. 209 
 
 grappling, and while the horse was at full speed 
 down one of the streets, threw out the anchor, 
 which catching hold of the stones, suddenly 
 brought him up, broke his horse's neck, and 
 hurled him a distance of several yards upon the 
 pavement. He was drunk, and as u a drunken 
 i man is never in danger," he escaped with little 
 injury. 
 
 New York abounds with religious sects of 
 various denominations ; but the episcopalians 
 and presbyterians seem to be the most numerous, 
 at least they have more places of worship than any 
 of the others. The quakers form but a small 
 community in this city, and even that is decreas- 
 ing; for the young people do not appear much 
 inclined to follow up the strict ceremonials of 
 their parents, in point of dress and manners. 
 They do not attach much weight to a broad 
 brim'd hat, or the ©ld-fashioned cut of plain co- 
 loured cloaths. These little aberrations, however, 
 do not bring upon them the public censure of 
 the friends, unless they are accompanied by visit- 
 ing plavs, dances, and other public amusements ; 
 playing at cards, music, &c. for which they are 
 read out of the society. Notwithstanding this 
 excommunication, many still continue to attend 
 the meetings, and if they afterwards deport them- 
 selves in an orderly manner, may be received into 
 the community again. 
 
 I attended a meeting of the Friends in Liberty- 
 
 VOL, II. p 
 
210 QUAKERS* MEETING. 
 
 street one Sunday, in company with the family 
 at our house. I observed that most of the young 
 men did not conform very strictly to the plain 
 dress; but the young ladies appeared, at least 
 outwardly, in the perfect costume of the quaker ; 
 though I had good reason to suspect that many 
 had fashionable muslin dresses underneath their 
 plain cloaks, that would have made their elders 
 sigh for the degeneracy of the times, had they 
 been exposed to view in their silent conclave. I 
 sat nearly two hours in anxious expectation that 
 the spirit would move one of the Friends to relieve 
 the monotonous silence of this solemn meeting. 
 Only a few words of admonition would have re- 
 moved the tedium I felt, but not a syllable escaped 
 the lips of any one during the whole of the sitting ; 
 and I was so posted in the rear of the brethren, 
 that I had seldom an opportunity of catching a 
 glimpse of the countenances of the lively young 
 sisters who sat with the rest of their sex on one side 
 of the house. A few of the elders of both sexes 
 were planted opposite to us, for the purpose I sup- 
 pose of being a check upon the looks and motions 
 of the younger branches. After this long and 
 silent cogitation, one of the old Friends got up ; 
 I now expected to hear the much wished for dis- 
 course, but to my disappointment, he shook the 
 next to him by the hand, which being the signal 
 for a general rising, the meeting broke up. Their 
 thoughts had, no doubt, been employed upon 
 
QUAKERS* MEETING. 21 1 
 
 celestial objects ; but for my part I am sorry to 
 say, that mine were continually wandering to- 
 wards objects of a terrestrial nature. 
 
 it is certainly a delicate matter to introduce 
 innovations in the old established laws of any 
 community, even though they have for their 
 object its ultimate improvement. Yet I do con- 
 ceive, if the Quakers were to allow their young 
 people certain innocent amusements, and a slight 
 relaxation in dress, which are at present forbidden ; 
 aud were to adopt a form of prayer or service, 
 with hymns, &c. agreeable to their tenets, to be 
 read or sung in those intervals, when the Friends 
 were unmoved by the spirit, that their society 
 would not diminish as it does at present ; for their 
 manners and conduct are so gentle and exem- 
 plary, their regulations and form of government 
 so beneficial to the community, that if they gained 
 no converts, they would lose none of their society. 
 Their doctrine of non-resistance is perhaps carried 
 too far, and is little calculated for this world. 
 But it is necessary that a certaindegree of patience 
 and forbearance should be exercised under injuries, 
 without which, human life would become a per- 
 petual state of hostility, from the continual repe- 
 tition of offences and retaliations, that would suc- 
 ceed each other in endless train. 
 
 There are several rich and respectable familiei 
 of Jews in New York, and as they have equal 
 rights with every other citizen in the United 
 
 p2 
 
212 ANECDOTE OF A JEW. 
 
 States, they suffer under no invidious distinctions. 
 A story is related of a respectable Jew at New 
 York, who, through the malice of a powerful 
 neighbour, was chosen constable, an office which 
 the former endeavoured in vain to be excused from 
 serving. The first Sunday of his entering upon 
 his office, he seated himself on a stool before his 
 door, and every servant that went by to fetch 
 water, he took the pails from. He also inter- 
 rupted, as far as in his power, every kind of work 
 on the Sabbath day, and so annoyed his enemy 
 and the rest of the neighbourhood with the se- 
 verity of his regulations, that they were very 
 glad to substitute another person in his place. 
 
 There are about 4,000 negroes and people of 
 colour in New York, 1,700 of whom are slaves. 
 These people are mostly of the Methodist per- 
 suasion, and have a chapel or two of their ow. 
 with preachers of then colour ; though some at 
 tend other places of worship according to theii 
 inclination. All religious sects in the United 
 States are upon an equal footing, no one has any 
 established prerogative above another ; but in 
 any place, on particular occasions, where prece- 
 dence is given to one over another, the episcopal 
 church, or that sect which is most numerous, ge- 
 nerally takes the lead. 
 
 In company with a gentleman one evening, I 
 visited a singing school in Warren-street. Here 
 we found upwards of 150 youths of all ages and 
 
SINGING SCHOOLS. 213 
 
 sexes present, sitting on forms round the room, 
 with a narrow desk before them to hold their 
 h ymn book. They were mostly children of the 
 middling and lower class of people, who were me- 
 thodists and dissenters of different denominations. 
 A man walked about in the middle of the room 
 and gave out the notes or cadence, with fa, la, sol, 
 &c. afterwards they sung the words from the hymn 
 books. I could perceive that many of the young 
 men and women were more fond of ogling each 
 other, than perusing their books, and several 
 amorous youths appeared to be waiting in the 
 passage, and in the singing room, to escort their 
 sweethearts home. The teacher has two dollars 
 a year for every scholar. This mode of teaching 
 a style of music, that can be adapted nearly to all 
 the hymns that are sung at the meetings and 
 chapels of the different dissenting sects, is com- 
 mon in the United States ; but more particularly 
 in the northern and middle parts of the union. 
 There is consequently a sameness, which does not 
 accord so well with the ear as the sublime music 
 of the episcopal church, and the pleasing variety 
 of many of the dissenting places of worship in 
 England. 
 
214 CHRISTMAS DAY. 
 
 CHAP. XXXI. 
 
 Christmas Day — Recommendation of the Clergy — - 
 New Year's Day — Political Parties'—Duels — 
 General Hamilton — Colonel Burr—Satire upon 
 Duels — Ancient Chivalry— Donna Fiddleosa — 
 Duels by Twilight — Courageous Youths — Buh 
 lets through their Hats and Coats — New Mode 
 of Duelling — The New York Barber — Anec-r 
 dote of Emperor Huggins — Humorous Bar* 
 bers—Mr. Jefferson's Advice to Huggins. 
 
 Christmas Day, and other festivals, are ob- 
 served much in the same manner as in England ; 
 but in consequence of there being no established 
 form of worship, as with us, the religious ob- 
 servance of those days is only recommended to 
 the people, by a number of the clergy of differ- 
 ent denominations, who assemble together, and 
 communicate their wishes to the common coun- 
 cil, who make them known to the public. The 
 following is one of their resolutions for Christ- 
 mas-day, 1807. 
 
 ,f IN COMMON COUNCIL. 
 
 " December 11, 1807. 
 <c The following communication having been 
 received from the reverend clergy of this citv: 
 
CHRISTMAS DAY. 215 
 
 " A number of the clergy, of different deno- 
 minations of this city, at a meeting held on 
 Wednesday the 16th inst. having taken into con- 
 sideration the merciful dispensations of Divine 
 Providence towards this city, during the last 
 season, and also the present aspect of public 
 affairs : 
 
 " Resolved, That it is proper to take public 
 and solemn notice of the Divine goodness, and as a 
 people, to implore the continued protection, and 
 those temporal and spiritual blessings, which are 
 so essential to our welfare, 
 
 " Resolved, That it be recommended to the se^- 
 veral congregations under our pastoral care, to set 
 apart Friday the 25th instant, as a day of solemn 
 thanksgiving and prayer; and that abstaining 
 from all kinds of servile labour and recreations 
 on that day, they come together to acknowledge 
 the mercy of God, in again exempting us frem 
 the scourge of pestilence, to praise him for the 
 multiplied favours of his gracious providence, to 
 beseech him to preserve us in peace, and to con- 
 tinue and extend our national prosperity ; and 
 above all, to pray for the sanctifying influences of 
 the Holy Spirit on our churches, and that we 
 may be favoured with all spiritual and heavenly 
 blessings in Christ Jesus. 
 
 ' ( Signed by order of the meeting, 
 
 " John Rodgers, Chairman." 
 
216 NEW year's day. 
 
 " Resolved, That the Board unite in the re- 
 commendation of the reverend clergy of this city, 
 upon the above occasion, and accordingly recom- 
 mend, that Friday the 25th day of December, be 
 observed and set apart as a day of public and 
 special thanksgiving and prayer to Almighty 
 God, for his benevolent dispensations of mercy to 
 this city : and we accordingly recommend to our 
 fellow citizens, that they carefully abstain from 
 all recreations and secular employments on that 
 
 day. 
 
 " By the Common Council, 
 
 " John Pintard, Clerk." 
 
 New York, Dec. 22, 1807. 
 
 The shops were accordingly shut, the people 
 attended public worship, and the day was reli- 
 giously and strictly observed. I did not, how- 
 ever, understand, that roast beef and plum- 
 pudding, turkey and chine, mince pies, <&c. 
 smoked on the American tables as they do in 
 England on that festival ; though, perhaps, those 
 Americans who yet retain a spice of the English 
 character about them, may continue the good 
 old practice of their ancestors. 
 
 New Year's Day is the most important of the 
 whole year. All the complimentary visits., fun, 
 and merriment of the season seem to be reserved 
 for this day though much is now worn away by 
 the innovations of fashion. Many of the shops are 
 shut up ; and the presbyterians, and a few othe r 
 
POLITICAL PARTIES. 
 
 217 
 
 religious dissenters, attend public worship. The 
 major of the city, and others of the constituted 
 authorities, advertise, two or three days before, 
 that they will reciprocate the compliments of the 
 season, with the inhabitants at their house on 
 New Year's Day. In consequence of this invi- 
 tation, I accompanied a gentleman to the mayor's 
 house in Water-street : we found the old gentle- 
 man surrounded by his friends and acquaintance. 
 The room was crowded, and the gentlemen were 
 coming in, going out, and taking refreshments at 
 a large table, spread out with cakes, wine, and 
 punch. Having paid our respects to his worship, 
 wished him the compliments of the season, a 
 happy new year, and drank a glass of excellent 
 punch, we took our leave. 
 
 The bakers, on this day, distribute to their cus- 
 tomers, 9mall cakes made in a variety of shapes 
 and figures ; and the newspaper editors greet 
 their readers with a poetical retrospect of the 
 events of the old year : it accords with their poli- 
 tical principles, and is generally a severe party 
 philippic. New York, like the other large cities 
 of the union, is a prey to the violent spirit of the 
 two parties, who are known under the titles of 
 federalists and democrats. The newspapers are 
 almost equally divided between the two, to 
 whose views they are of course subservient, and 
 have the effect of keeping up a continual warfare, 
 in which they belabour each other, their rulers, 
 
218 DUELS. 
 
 and the English and French nations, without 
 mercy. "Everyday/' as Mustapha Rubadub 
 observes in Salmagundi, <( have these slang- 
 whangers made furious attacks on each other, and 
 upon their respective adherents, discharging their 
 heavy artillery, consisting of large sheets, loaded 
 with scoundrel! villain ! liar ! rascal ! numskull ! 
 nincompoop ! dunder-head ! wise-acre ! block- 
 head ! jackass ! and I do swear by my beard, 
 though I know thou wilt scarcely credit me, 
 that in some of these skirmishes the grand ba- 
 shaw himself has been woefully pelted ! yea, 
 most ignominiously pelted ! and yet have these 
 talking desperadoes escaped without the basti- 
 nado ! " 
 
 The drinking of toasts at public dinners is a 
 very common method of venting party spleen in 
 America, and of drinking destruction to their 
 enemies. The newspapers publish long lists 
 of these toasts the next day, as so many proofs of 
 patriotism and virtue ; and take a pride in shew- 
 ing how brilliantly their partizans can blackguard 
 public characters in their cups : — " they do but 
 jest — poison in jest," as Hamlet says. It was the 
 violent spirit of party that occasioned the duel 
 between General Hamilton and Colonel Burr. 
 Hamilton fell regretted by all parties, and was 
 particularly deplored by the citizens of New- 
 York, among whom he resided. Burr escaped 
 
DUELS. 219 
 
 only to become odious in the sight of the whole 
 nation. 
 
 Duels are very frequent and fatal throughout 
 the States, and all attempts to prevent them have 
 hitherto failed. At New York, a law was passed 
 to prohibit the sending of challenges, and the 
 fighting of duels, under severe penalties; but it 
 answered no other end than to produce a smart 
 piece of satire on the subject of duels. As it 
 may amuse my readers, as well as give them some 
 notion of American humour, I take the liberty 
 of laying it before them. 
 
 {f I was calmly enjoying my toast and coffee, 
 some mornings ago, with my sister Dorothy and 
 Jack Stylish, when we were surprized by the 
 abrupt entrance of my friend Mr. Andrew Quoz. 
 By the particular expression of his knowing 
 phiz, as cousin Jack calls it, I immediately per- 
 ceived he was labouring with some important 
 intelligence. 
 
 ec In one hand he held the Morning Chronicle, 
 and with the fore finger of the other pointed to a 
 particular paragraph. I hastily put on my spec- 
 tacles, and seized the paper with eager curiosity, 
 Judge my surprize, Mr. Editor, on reading an 
 act of our legislature, pronouncing any citizen of 
 this state who shall send, bear, or accept a chal- 
 lenge, either verbal or written, disqualified from 
 holding any office of honour or confidence, or of 
 voting at any election within this state, &c. 
 
220 ANCIENT CHIVALRY. 
 
 " The paper fell from my hand : I turned my 
 eyes to friend Andrew in mute astonishment. 
 Quoz put his finger to his nose, and winking sig- 
 nificantly, cried : ' What do you think of this, 
 my friend Jonathan ?' 
 
 " c Here is a catastrophe !* exclaimed I, in a 
 melancholy tone : c Here is a damper to the 
 mettlesome youths of the age. Spirit of Chivalry, 
 whither hast thou flown ? Shade of Don Quix- 
 otte, dost thou not look down with contempt on 
 the degeneracy of the times ?' 
 
 rc My sister Dorothy caught a sympathetic 
 spark of enthusiasm : deep-read in all the vo- 
 lumes of ancient romance, and delighted with 
 their glowing descriptions of the heroic age, she 
 had learned to admire the gallantry of former 
 days, and mourned to see the last spark of chi- 
 valric fire thus rudely extinguished. ' Alas I 
 my brother/ said she, f to what a deplorable 
 state are our young men reduced! how piteous 
 must be their situation, with sensibilities so easily 
 injured, and bosoms so tremblingly alive to the 
 calls of honour and etiquette/ 
 
 " ' Indeed, my dear Dorothy/ said I, ■ I feel 
 most deeply for their melancholy situation. De- 
 prived in these dull, monotonous, peaceable times, 
 of all opportunities of evincing, in the hardy con- 
 test of the tented field, the heroic flame that burns 
 within their breasts, they were happy to vent the 
 lofty fuming of their souls in the more domestic, 
 
DONNA FIDDLEOSA. 221 
 
 and less dangerous encounters of the duel, like 
 the warrior in the fable, who, deprived of the 
 pleasure of slaughtering armies, contented him- 
 self with cutting down cabbages.* 
 
 " Here a solemn pause ensued. I called to 
 mind all the tales I had heard or read of ancient 
 knights; their amours, their quarrels, and their 
 combats ; how, on a fair summer's morning, the 
 Knight of the Golden Goose met the Knight of 
 the Fiery Fiddle ; how the Knight of the Fierj 
 Fiddle exclaimed in lofty tones, ' whoever denies 
 that Donna Fiddleosa is the most peerless beauty 
 in the universe, must brave the strength of this 
 arm.* How they both engaged with dreadful 
 fury ; and after fighting till sun-set, the Knight 
 of the Fiery Fiddle fell a martyr to his con- 
 stancy; murmuring in melodious accents, with 
 his latest breath, the beloved name of Fiddleosa. 
 
 ' \ From these ancient engagements, I descended 
 to others more modern in their dates, but equally 
 important in their origins. I recalled the genuine 
 politeness and polished ceremony with which 
 duels were conducted in my youthful days, when 
 that gentlemanly weapon the small sword was in 
 highest vogue. A challenge was worded w r ith 
 the most particular complaisance; and one that 
 I have still in my possession ends with the words, 
 'your friend, and affectionate servant, Nicholas 
 Stubbs/ When the parties met on the field, the 
 same decorum was observed ; they pulled off their 
 
222 
 
 DUELS BY TWILIGHT. 
 
 hats,, wished one another a good day, and helped 
 to draw oft' each other's coats and boots, with the 
 most respectful civility. Their fighting, too, was 
 so handsomely conducted; no awkward move- 
 ments ; no eager arfd angry pushes ; all cool, ele- 
 gant, and graceful: every thrust had its sa sa ; 
 and a ha hah ! lunged you gently through the 
 body. Then nothing could equal the tenderness 
 and attention with which a wounded antagonist 
 was treated : his adversary, after wiping hir 
 sword deliberately, kindly supported him in his 
 arms, examined his pulse, and inquired, with the 
 most affectionate solicitude, * How he felt himself 
 now?' Thus every thing was conducted in a well 
 bred, gentlemanly manner. 
 
 ff Our present customs, I cannot say I much 
 admire; a twelve inch barrel pistol and ounce ball, 
 are blunt, unceremonious afFairs, and prevent that 
 display of grace and elegance allowed by the 
 small sword ; besides, there is something so awk- 
 ward in having the muzzle of a pistol staring 
 one full in the face, that I should think it might 
 be apt to make some of our youthful heroes feel 
 rather disagreeable, unless, as I am told has been 
 sometimes the case, the duel was fought by twi- 
 light. 
 
 (e The ceremony of loading, priming, cocking, 
 &c. has not the most soothing effects on a per- 
 son's feelings ; and, I am told, that some of our 
 warriors have been known to tremble, and make 
 
COURAGEOUS YOUTHS. 223 
 
 wry faces during these preparations, though this 
 has been attributed, and doubtless with much jus- 
 tice, to the violence of their wrath, and fierceness 
 of their courage. 
 
 " I had thus been musing for some time, when 
 I broke silence at last by hinting to friend Quoz, 
 some of my objections to the mode of fighting 
 with pistols. c Truly, my friend Oldstyle/ said 
 Quoz, ' I am surprized at your ignorance of 
 modern customs : trust me, I know of no amuse- 
 ment that is, generally speaking, more harmless. 
 To be sure, there may now and then be a couple 
 of determined fellows take the field, who resolve 
 to do the thing in good earnest ; but in general 
 our fashionable duellists are content with only 
 one discharge; and then either they are poor 
 shots, or their triggers pull hard, ©r they shut the 
 wrong eye, or some other cause intervenes, so 
 that it is ten, aye, twenty chances to one in their 
 favour.' 
 
 " Here I begged leave to differ from my friend 
 Andrew ; e I am well convinced/ said I, 1 of 
 the valour of our young men, and that they de- 
 termine, when they march forth to the field, 
 either to conquer or die ; but it generally happens 
 that their seconds are of a more peaceable mind, 
 and interpose after the first shot 3 yet I am in- 
 formed, that they come, often, very near being 
 killed, having bullet holes through their hats and 
 coats; which, like Falstaff's hacked sword, are 
 
224 NEW MODE OF DUELLING-. 
 
 strong proofs of the serious nature of their en- 
 counters.' 
 
 ec My sister Dorothy, who is of a humane and 
 benevolent disposition, would, no doubt, detest 
 the idea of duels, did she not regard them as the 
 last gleams of those days of chivalry to which 
 she looks back with a degree of romantic enthu- 
 siasm. She now considered them as having re- 
 ceived their death blow / 'for how can even 
 the challenges be conveyed/ said she, ' when 
 the very messengers are considered as principals 
 in the offence/ 
 
 " '. Nothing more easy/ said friend Quoz; r a 
 man gives me the lie, very well : I tread on his 
 toes in token of challenge, he pulls my nose by 
 way of acceptance: thus, you see, the challenge 
 is safely conveyed without a third party. We 
 then settle the mode in which satisfaction is to 
 be given ; as, for instance, we draw lots which of 
 us must be slain to satisfy the demands of honour. 
 Mr. A. or Mr. B. my antagonist, is to fall : well 
 madam, he stands below in the street; I run up 
 to the garret window, and drop a brick upon his 
 head : if he survives, well and good; if he falls, 
 why nobody is to blame, it was purely accidental, 
 Thus the affair is settled, according to the com- 
 mon saying, ■ to our mutual satisfaction.' 
 
 " Jack Stylish observed, that as to Mr. Quoz* 
 project of dropping bricks on people's heads, he 
 considered it a vulgar substitute : for his pari* 
 
KEW MODE OF DUELLING. 225 
 
 he thought that it would be well for the legisla- 
 ture to amend their law respecting duels, and li- 
 cence them under proper restrictions. That no 
 persons should be allowed to fight without taking 
 out a regular licence from what might be called 
 the blood and thunder office. That they should 
 be obliged to give two or three weeks notice of 
 the intended combat in the newspapers. That 
 contending parties should fight till one of them 
 fell, and that the public should be admitted to 
 the show. 
 
 " This, he observed, would be in some degree 
 reviving the spectacles of antiquity, when the 
 populace were regaled with the combats of gla- 
 diators. We have, at present, no games resem- 
 bling those of the ancients ; except now and 
 then a bull or a bear bait, and this would be a 
 valuable addition to the list of our refined amuse- 
 ments. 
 
 tc I listened to their discourse in silence : yet 
 I cannot but think, Mr. Editor, that this plan 
 is entitled to some attention. Our young men 
 fight ninety-nine times out of a hundred, 
 through fear of being branded with the epithet of 
 coward; and since they fight to please the world, 
 the world being tbus interested in their encoun- 
 ter, should be permitted to attend and judge, in 
 person, of their conduct. 
 
 <c As I think the subject of importance, I take 
 the liberty of requesting a corner in the Morping 
 
 VOL. II. q 
 
226 JOHN DEBOROUS HUCGIN'S. 
 
 Chronicle, to submit it to the consideration of 
 the public. 
 
 New York. " Jonathan Oldstyle." 
 
 New York, like London, possesses its quack 
 doctors, barbers, and blacking-makers ; who puff 
 off their nostrums, their wigs, and their black- 
 ing, in the most hyperbolical and eccentric ad- 
 vertisements. Indeed, they often excel, if pos- 
 sible, our ingenious venders of cosmetics ; and 
 vie with those veterans in the art of puffing, 
 Brodum, Solomon, Packwood, and the lottery of- 
 fice-keepers. But the most prominent person- 
 age on the list, is the renowned John Deborous 
 Huggins, ladies' and gentlemen's hair dresser 
 in the Broadway, who has styled himself emperor 
 of the barkers. Our hair- cutting gentry, who 
 think they have reached the " acme or perfection 
 of human nature," must hide their diminished 
 wigs before this great personage. He is indeed 
 the very prince of barbers, for he issues his 
 edicts, decrees, and proclamations, iu the public 
 prints, in the very spirit, and even the very 
 words, of his grx^it prototypes, Napoleon and 
 Mr. Jefferson. At one time he puts all the bar- 
 bers in a state of rigorous blockade, and interdicts 
 all communication between them and the inhabitants. 
 At another time he lays an embargo upon all 
 scissars, combs, and curling irois; and after is- 
 suing some spirited proclamations against the 
 
ANECDOTE OF EMPEllOU HUGGINS. 227 
 
 outrages committed on his subjects, he declares bis 
 intention of resigning after forty months* semice, 
 fearing lest his power should degenerate into an in- 
 heritance; which would of course be inimical to 
 the freedom of the barbers. In short, neither Mr. 
 Jefferson nor Napoleon, ever publish a procla- 
 mation or a message, but it is immediately fol- 
 lowed by one from the Emperor Huggins. This 
 great man, notwithstanding the elevated sphere 
 in which he moves, is not inattentive to the in- 
 ternal welfare of his dominions. Every year he 
 makes a tour to Philadelphia, Ballston, or other 
 places, to inspect the condition of his subjects : 
 but the anxiety which he evinces in his endea- 
 vours to develope character and design in the 
 course of his various duties, has too often been 
 the means of turning their pericraniums. This, 
 however, he is of opinion, contributes to their 
 happiness, and increases his revenues. 
 
 Emperor Huggins was once in rather an awk- 
 ward predicament, previous to his elevation to the 
 imperial dignity. A French line-of- battle ship 
 being in the harbour of New York, Huggins 
 felt an inclination to visit it; and one Sunday, in 
 company with a taylor, went on board. After 
 walking upon deck some time, they wished to 
 inspect the cabin, but the centinel informed them 
 the captain was there; Huggins, however, con- 
 scious of the dignity of himself and -friend/ sent 
 in their names, and were admitted. There they 
 
228 ANECDOTE OF EMPEROR HUGGINS 
 
 found the captain enveloped in an immense 
 cocked hat, and almost weighed down by a huge 
 cutlass. It happened that Huggins then lived at 
 the Tontine coffee-house as hair-dresser to the 
 lodgers, and knew an English officer that resided 
 there, who had arrived in the French ship, by 
 which he had been captured at sea. The French 
 captain no sooner learnt that Huggins was ac- 
 quainted with his friend Major H than he in- 
 vited him to dine on board. Huggins having 
 gone so far, could not decline the polite offer, 
 though he was afraid lest he should be disco- 
 vered by some other visitors who might come on 
 board; however, he-resolved to proceed as boldly 
 as he had commenced. In a short time dinner 
 was brought up, and Huggins declares that he 
 could hardly keep his countenance, when he saw 
 his friend Snip help himself to a leg, wing, and a 
 bit of the breast of a fine fat goose, and was fre- 
 quently alarmed that Snfp, who unfortunately 
 did not possess his polish, might, perhaps, betray 
 his occupation. Luckily for them both, every 
 thing passed off well. Huggins and Snip drank 
 claret, and conversed upon various to pics with the 
 Frenchman and his officers, who understood a 
 little English, until evening, when they got up 
 from table to go on shore. Huggins, with the 
 utmost sangfroid, gave the captain his card, hav- 
 ing first torn off " Ladies' and Gentlemen's Hair^ 
 dves*&," and said he should be happy to se& 
 
ANECDOTE OF EMPEROR HUGGINS. 229 
 
 him any time at his apartments at the Tontine 
 coffee-house. 
 
 Had the business gone no farther than this, our 
 hero and his friend would have come off with 
 flying colours ; unfortunately, fate ordained 
 otherwise. The captain called next day, and en- 
 quired at the bar, for Monsieur Hugaine, who 
 resided in that house. The waiter assured him 
 that no other person lived there resembling that 
 name, but one Huggins, a barber : " Sacre 
 Dieul" says the Frenchman, " de Monsieur Hu- 
 gaine I. mean is a Gentilho mine, and no barber e; he 
 is de great friend of Major H — ," upon which he 
 pulled out Huggins's card, and shewed it to the 
 waiter. The man immediately smoked the trick, 
 and rung for another waiter to shew the gentle- 
 man up stairs to Monsieur Hugaine. Huggins, 
 who was busily engaged at his wig block, no 
 sooner saw the Frenchman enter, than, in despair, 
 he involuntarily snatched a large pair of curling 
 irons out of the fire to defend himself, thinking 
 the deluded captain would rip him up with his 
 huge sabre. The Frenchman, however, was so 
 thunderstruck when he saw the great friend of 
 
 Major H metamorphosed into a barber* 
 
 that he stood aghast, as though he had seen an 
 apparition before him. At length recovering 
 himself, he clapped his hand upon the hilt of his 
 sabre, which he drew half out, intending to anni- 
 hilate theunfortunate /meur. JButeither disdain- 
 
230 HUMOROUS BARBERS. 
 
 daining to soil bis steel with such plebeian blood, 
 or perhaps from seeing Muggins prepared for the 
 worst with his hot irons, the renowned captain 
 returned his tremendous weapon into the scab- 
 bard, shrugged up his shoulders, pulled out his 
 gold box, took a pinch of snuiFwith great vehe- 
 mence, and walked down stairs uttering ten thou- 
 sand " sacre clieus ! and diables ! upon de villain- 
 ous barber e dat had made him one grand fou I'] 
 
 Barbells seem to be a privileged race of men, 
 who are allowed to carry eccentricity,whimsicality, 
 and loquacity to their utmost extent. In almost 
 every place there are some of that profession, 
 who make themselves conspicuous for those qua- 
 lities, but it was reserved for Quebec to possess 
 one that distinguishes himself by his shabby and 
 slovenly appearance; though it is said he is pos- 
 sessed of considerable property. An old broken 
 straw hat, a long thread bare coat, reaching down 
 to his ancles, his stockings falling about his heels, 
 and a ragged handkerchief about his neck, forms 
 the dress in which Thompson, the hair-dresser at 
 Quebec, prides himself, aid in which he visits all 
 the gentry in the place, for he is equal in point of 
 abilities, as hair- cutter and dresser, to Ross or Bow- 
 man. He is a perfect contrast to the generality of 
 his profession,whoalmost always pique themselves 
 upon the cleanliness of their dress, and the neat- 
 ness of their head ; which latter they carry on their 
 shoulders as a sort of animated block, to display 
 
mr. jefferson's advice to huggins. 231 
 
 their capability in the different branches of th«ir 
 art ; whether it be in wig and whisker making, 
 hair-cutting, hair dressing, powdering, or shav- 
 ing ! 
 
 In the Echo is the following allusion to 
 Huggins, which the authors put into the mouth 
 of Mr. Jefferson : 
 
 ',' Great marts of know] J *'\ formed the world to bless, 
 
 ■_ *' - 
 
 The seats of scandal, pdvftics, and dress ! 
 
 From barbers' shops what benefits we trace ? 
 
 How great their 'vantage to the human race ? 
 
 That source of civil culture unpossess'd, 
 
 What wonder reason slowly nils the breast ? 
 
 Thou Knight renown' d! possessed of equal skill, 
 
 The comb to flourish, or to ply the quill j 
 
 Whose bright effusions, wond'ring, oft I see, 
 
 And own myself in message beat by thee : 
 
 O wouldst thou, Huggins, to the Indians go, 
 
 And on their chins give mighty beards to grow j 
 
 Soon should thy shop o'er all their wigwams rise, 
 
 And painted pole attract their curious eyes : 
 
 While the glad tribes would thither quick repair, 
 
 And claim, in turn, the honours of thy chair. 
 
 Methinks, amid the newly bearded band, 
 
 With brush and lather arm'd, I see thee stand, 
 
 And as each visage gleams with foamy white, 
 
 And wields thy dexter hand, the razor bright, 
 
 Thy eloquence pervades, refines the whole j 
 
 And pours the beams of reason o'er their soul : 
 
 While white wigged savages, with loud acclaim, 
 
 Thee as the People's Friend and President shall name." 
 
23£ ESSAYS FROM SALM AGUNDI. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXII. 
 
 Essays from Salmagundi— Strangers at New 
 York — Mustqpha Rubadub Kelt Khan — His 
 Letter to Assent Hac 1 m — Women at New 
 York — The Tripolitan's Reception by the Ame- 
 ricans — His Opinions upon their Form of 
 Government— Fashions of New York— Rivalry 
 between .Mrs. Toole and Madame Bouchard- 
 Ladies' Dress-— -On Style- — Style of an English 
 Citizen — of a Nobleman — of a Chinese — Bell- 
 brazen, the Favorite of the Emperor Dessalines. 
 —-The Fashionable Vulgar — The Giblets-— 
 Fashionable Life — The Perfection of Style — 
 JHnstapha's Description of an Election — Elec- 
 tion Orators — ^Sovereign People — Beer Barrels 
 —Ghost of Washington — French Inconnus— 
 Stranger at Home ; or Tour in Bradbury—* 
 Moore's Poems — New York Assetnbly. 
 
 I shall now present my readers with some 
 of the essays from Salmagundi, the ingenious 
 periodical work before- mentioned. Their merit 
 alone would be a sufficient apology for introducing 
 (hem in this volume ; but they have other claims 
 to notice, inasmuch., as they afford one of the 
 
ESSAYS FROM SALMAGUNDI. 233 
 
 most successful specimens of original compo- 
 sition that has hitherto been produced in the 
 United States ; and will, therefore, enable my 
 readers to judge of the present state of literature 
 in that country ; they also present a humorous 
 display of the manners, disposition, and character 
 pf the people, which cannot fail of rendering them 
 highly interesting to foreigners as well as to na- 
 tives of the United States. The essays which I 
 have chosen will also, I hope, shield me from 
 the charge of selecting unfavorable specimens of 
 American literature ; an accusation which $e- 
 yeral of their writers have, with too much truth* 
 brought against former travellers. 
 
234 STItANGERS AT NEW *OKK. 
 
 SALMAGUNDI ; 
 
 OR, THE 
 
 WHIM- WHAMS AND OPINIONS 
 
 OF 
 
 LAUNCELOT LANGS TAFF, Esq. 
 
 AND OTHERS. 
 
 In hoc est hoax, cum quiz et jockesez 
 Etsmokem, toastem, roastem folksez, 
 
 Fee, Faw, Fum. Psalmanazak. 
 
 With baked, and broiled, and stewed, and toasted, 
 And fried, and boiled, and smoked, and roasted, 
 We treat the town. 
 
 FROM MY ELBOW CHAIR. 
 
 As I delight in every thing novel and eccentric, 
 and would at anytime give an old coat for a new 
 idea, I am particularly attentive to the manners 
 and conversation of strangers ; and scarcely ever 
 a traveller enters this city whose appearance pro- 
 mises any thing original, but by some means or 
 other I form an acquaintance with him. I must 
 confess I often suffer manifold afflictions from 
 the intimacies thus contracted : my curiosity is 
 frequently punished by the stupid details of a 
 
STRANGERS AT NEW YORK. 235 
 
 blockhead, or the shallow verbosity of a coxcomb. 
 Now I would prefer, at any time, to travel with 
 an ox team through a Carolina sand flat, rather 
 than plod through a heavy unmeaning conversa- 
 tion with the former ; and as to the latter, I 
 would sooner hold sweet converse with the wheel 
 of a knife grinder, than endure his monotonous 
 chattering. In fact, the strangers who flock to 
 this most pleasant of all earthly cities, are gene- 
 rally mere birds of passage, whose plumage is 
 often gay enough,, 1 own, but their notes, 
 '* Heaven save the mark," are as unmusical as 
 those of that classic night bird, which the an- 
 cients humorously selected as the emblem of wis- 
 dom. Those from the South it is true, entertain 
 me with their horses, equipages, and puns ; 
 and it is excessively pleasant to hear a couple 
 of these four iu hand gentlemen detail their 
 exploits over a bottle. Those from the East 
 have often induced me to doubt the existence of 
 the wise men of yore, who are said to have flou- 
 rished in that quarter: and as for those from parts 
 
 beyond seas "Oh ! my master, ye shall hear 
 
 more from me anon. Heaven help this unhappy 
 town !— hath it not goslings enow of its own 
 hatching and rearing, that it must be over- 
 whelmed by such an inundation of ganders from 
 other climes ? I would not have any of my cour- 
 teous and gentle readers suppose, that I am run- 
 ning a muck, full tilt, cut and slash upon all fa- 
 
236 STRANGERS AT NEW YORK. 
 
 rcigners indiscriminately. I have no national aft* 
 tipathies, though related to the Cockloft family. 
 As to honest John Bull, I shake him heartily by 
 the hand, assuring him that I love his jolly coun- 
 tenance, and moreover am lineally descended from 
 him; in proof of which, I alledge my invincible 
 predilection for roast beef and plum-pudding. 1 
 therefore look upon all his children as my kins- 
 men ; and I beg, when I tickle a cockney, I may 
 not be understood as trimming an Englishman, 
 they being very distinct animals, as I shall clearly 
 demonstrate in a future number. If any one 
 wishes to know my opinion of the Irish and 
 Scotch, he may find it in the characters of those 
 two nations, drawn by the first advocate of the age. 
 But the French, I confess, are my favourites, and 
 I have taken more pains to argue my cousin Pin- 
 dar out of his antipathy to them, than I ever did 
 about any other thing. When, therefore, I choose 
 to hunt a monsieur for my own particular 
 amusement, I beg it may not be asserted that I 
 intend him as a representative of his countrymen 
 at large. Far from this, I love the nation, as 
 being a nation of right merry fellows, possessing 
 the true secret of being happy; which is nothing 
 more than thinking of nothing, talking about any 
 thing, and laughing at every thing. I mean 
 pnlyto tune up those little thing-o-mys, who re- 
 present nobody but thcanselves, who have no na- 
 tional trait about them but their language, and 
 
MUST Apha rubadub keli khan. &*7 
 
 who hop about our town in swarms like little 
 toads after a shower. 
 
 Among the few strangers whose acquaintance 
 has entertained me, I particularly rank the mag- 
 nanimous Mustapha Rubadub Keli Khan, a most 
 illustrious captain of a ketch, who figured some 
 time since in our fashionable circles, at the head 
 of a ragged regiment of Tripolitan prisoners. Hi* 
 conversation was to me a perpetual feast. I 
 chuckled with inward pleasure at his whimsical 
 mistakes, and unaffected observations on men and 
 manners, and I rolled each odd conceit, " like a 
 sweet morsel under my tongue/' 
 
 Whether Mustapha was captivated by my iron- 
 bound physiognomy, or flattered by the atten- 
 tions which I paid him, I won't determine ; but I 
 so far gained his confidence, that at his depar- 
 ture he presented me with a bundle of papers, 
 containing, among other articles, several copies 
 of letters, which he had written to his friends at 
 Tripoli. The following is a translation of one. 
 of them. The original is in Arabic-greek, but 
 by the assistance of Will Wizard, who under- 
 stands all languages, not excepting that manufac- 
 tured by Psalmanazar, I have been enabled to 
 accomplish a tolerable translation. We should 
 have found little difficulty in rendering it into 
 English, had it not been for Mustapha's con- 
 founded pot-hooks and trammels. 
 
$38 MUSTAPHAS LETTER. 
 
 LETTER 
 
 Tram MUSTAPHA R UBAD UB KELI KHAN, Capta in of a 
 Ketch, to ASSEM HACCHEM, principal Slave-driver to 
 his Highness the Bashaw of Tripoli. 
 
 Thou wilt learn from this letter, most illns- 
 friousdisciple of Mahomet, that I have for some 
 time resided in New York, the most polished^ 
 vast, and magnificent city of the United States of 
 America. But, what to me are its delights ! I 
 wander a captive through its splendid streets ; I 
 turn a heavy eve on every rising day that beholds 
 me banished from my country. The Christian 
 husbands here lament most bitterly any short ab- 
 sence from home, though they leave but one wife 
 behind to lament their departure. What then 
 must be the feelings of thy unhappy kinsman, 
 while thus lingering at an immeasurable distance 
 from three- and '-twenty of the most lovely and obe- 
 dient wives in all Tripoli ! Oh, Allah ! shall 
 thy servant never again return to his native land, 
 nor behold his beloved wives, who beam on his 
 memory, beautiful as the rosy morn of the East, 
 and graceful as Mahomet's camel i 
 
 Yet beautiful, O most puissant slave-driver, 
 as are my wives, they are far exceeded by the 
 women of Ibis country. Even those who run 
 about the streets, with bare arms and necks, 
 
WOMEN AT NEW YORK.. 239 
 
 et cmtera, whoso habiliments are too scanty to 
 protect them either from the inclemency of the 
 seasons, or the scrutinizing glances of the curious; 
 and who, it would seem belong to nobody, are 
 lovely as the Houris that people the Elysium of 
 true believers. If then such as run wild in the 
 highways, and whom no one cares to appro- 
 priate, are thus beauteous ; what must be the 
 charms of those who are shut up in the se- 
 raglios, and never permitted to go abroad! surely 
 the region of beauty, the valley of the graces, can 
 contain nothing so inimitably fair ! 
 
 But, notwithstanding the charms of these 
 infidel women, they are. apt to have one fault, 
 which is extremely troublesome and inconvenient. 
 Wo u Ids' t thou believe it, Assem, I have been 
 positively assured, by a famous dervise ( or doctor, 
 as he is here called), that at least one- fifth part^of 
 them have souls! Incredible as it may seem to 
 thee, I am more inclined to believe them in pos- 
 session of this monstrous superfluity, from my 
 own little experience, and from the information 
 which I have derived from others. In walking 
 the streets, I have actually seen an exceeding 
 good looking woman, with soul enough to box 
 her husband's ears to his heart's content, and my 
 very whiskers trembled with indignation at the 
 abject state of these wretched infidels. 1 am told, 
 moreover, that some of the women have soul 
 enough to usurp the breeches of the men; but 
 
2iQ THE TRlfrOLITANs' REC^TldN. 
 
 these,! suppose are married, and kept close ; for i 
 have not, in my rambles, met with any so extrava- 
 gantly accoutred ; others I am informed have 
 soul enough to swear ! — yea ! by the beard of 
 the great Omar, who prayed three times to each 
 of the one hundred and twenty-four thousand 
 prophets of our most holy faith, and who never 
 swore but once in his life, they actually swear ! 
 
 Get thee to the mosque, good Assem ! return 
 thanks to our most holy prophet, that he has been 
 thusmindfulof the comfort of all trueMussulmen, 
 and has given them wives, with no more souls 
 than cats and dogs, and other necessary animals 
 of the household. 
 
 Thou wilt doubtless be anxious to learn our 
 reception in this country, and how we were 
 treated by a people whom we have been accus- 
 tomed to consider as unenlightened barbarians. 
 
 On landing, we were waited upon to our lodg- 
 ing, I suppose according to the directions of the 
 municipality, by a vast and respectable escort of 
 boys and negroes, who shouted, and threw up 
 their hats, doubtless to do honour to the magna- 
 nimous Mustapha, captain of a ketch ; they were 
 somewhat ragged and dirty in their equipments, 
 but this we attributed to their republican simpli- 
 city. One of them, in the zeal of admiration, threw 
 an old shoe, which gave thy friend rather an un- 
 gentle salutation on the side of the head, whereat, 
 I was not a little offended, until the interpreter 
 
AMERICAN GOVERNMENT. 241 
 
 informed us that this was the customary manner 
 in which great men were honoured in this coun- 
 try ; and that the more distinguished they were, 
 the more they were subjected to the attacks, and 
 peltings of the mob. Upon this I bowed my head 
 three times with my hands to my turban, and 
 made a speech in Arabic-greek, which gave great 
 satisfaction, and occasioned a shower of old 
 shoes, hats, and so forth, that was exceedingly 
 refreshing to us all. 
 
 Thou wilt not as yet expect that I should give 
 thee an account of the laws and politics of this 
 country. I will reserve them for some future 
 letter, when I shall be more experienced in their 
 complicated, and seemingly contradictory nature. 
 
 This empire is governed by a grand, and most 
 puissant bashaw, whom theydigtiify with the title 
 of President. He is chosen by persons, who are 
 chosen by an assembly, elected by the people. — 
 Hence the mob is called the sovereign people, and 
 the country, free; the body politic doubtless 
 resembling a vessel that is best governed by its 
 tail. The present bashaw is a very plain old 
 gentleman ; something they say of a humourist, 
 as he amuses himself with impaling butterflies', 
 and pickling tadpoles ; he is rather declining 
 in popularity, having given great offence by 
 wearing red breeches and tying his horse to a post. 
 The people of the United States have assured me, 
 "that they themselves are the most enlightened 
 
 VOL. II. B 
 
242 AMERICAN GOVERNMENT. 
 
 nation under the sun; 1 * but thou knowest that the 
 barbarians of the desart, who assemble at the 
 summer solstice, to shoot their arrows at that 
 glorious luminary, in order to extinguish its 
 burning rays, make precisely the same boast ; — 
 which of them have the superior claim I shall 
 not attempt to decide. 
 
 When I have studied this people more pro- 
 foundly, I will write thee again; in the mean 
 time, watch over my household, and do not beat 
 my beloved wives, unless you catch them with 
 their noses out of the window. Though far dis- 
 tant, and a slave, let me live in thy heart as thou 
 livest in mine : — think not, O friend of my soul, 
 that the splendours of this luxurious capital, its 
 gorgeous palaces, its stupendous mosques, and the 
 beautiful females who run wild in herds about its 
 streets, can obliterate thee from my remembrance. 
 Thy name shall still be mentioned in the five-and- 
 twenty prayers which I offer up daily; and may 
 our great prophet, after bestowing on thee all 
 the blessings of this life, at length, in a good 
 old age, lead thee gently by the hand, to enjoy 
 the dignity of bashaw of three tails in the blissful 
 bowers of Eden. 
 
 Mustapha. 
 
FASHJONS OF NEW YORK. 243 
 
 FASHIONS. 
 
 By ANTHONY EVERGREEN, Gent. 
 
 Mrs. Toole has forsome time reigned unrivalled 
 in the fashionable world, and had the supreme 
 direction of caps, bonnets, feathers, flowers, and 
 tinsel. She- had dressed and undressed our ladies 
 just as she pleased ; now loading them with 
 velvet and wadding; now turning them adrift 
 upon the world, to run shivering through the 
 streets with scarcely a covering to their — backs; 
 and now obliging them to drag a long train at 
 their heels; like the tail of a paper kite. Her 
 despotic sway, however, threatens to be limited. 
 A dangerous rival has sprung up in the person of 
 Madame Bouchard, an intrepid little woman, 
 fresh from the head quarters of fashion and folly; 
 and who has burst, like a second Buonaparte, 
 upon the fashionable world. Mrs. Toole, not- 
 withstanding, seems determined to dispute her 
 ground bravely for the honour of Old England. 
 The ladies have began to arrange themselves 
 under the banner of one or other of these heroines 
 of the needle, and every thing portends open 
 war ; Madame Bouchard marches gallantly to 
 the field, flourishing a flaming red robe for a 
 standard, " flouting the skies ;" — and Mrs. Toole, 
 no ways dismayed, sallies out, under cover of a 
 forest of artificial flowers, like Malcolm's host. 
 
 r3 
 
244 ladies' dress. 
 
 Both parties possess great merit, and both deserve 
 the victory. Mrs. Toole charges the highest, 
 but Madame Bouchard makes the lowest curtsey. 
 Madame Bouchard is a little short lady, nor is 
 there any hope of her growing larger ; but then she 
 is perfectly genteel, and so isMrs.Toole. Mrs.Toole 
 lives in the Broadway, and Madame Bouchard 
 in Courtlandt-street ; but Madame Bouchard 
 atones for the inferiority of her stand by making 
 two curtseys to Mrs. Toole's one, and talking 
 French like an angel. Mrs. Toole is the best 
 looking, but Madame Bouchard wears a most 
 bewitching little scrubby wig. Mrs. Toole is the 
 tallest, but Madame Bouchard has the longest 
 nose. Mrs. Toole is fond of roast beef, but 
 Madame is loyal in her adherence to onions ; in 
 short, so equally are the merits of the two ladies 
 balanced, that there is no judging which will 
 " kick the beam." It however seems to be the 
 prevailing opinion, that Madame Bouchard 
 will carry the day, because she wears a wig, has a 
 long* nose, talks French, loves onions, and does 
 not charge above ten times, as much for a thing 
 as it is worth. 
 
 Under the directions of these high priestesses of 
 the Beau Monde, the following is the fashionable 
 morning dress for walking. 
 
 If the weather be very cold, a thin musiini 
 
ladies' dress. 2tt 
 
 gown or frock is most advisable, because it 
 agrees with the season: being perfectly cool. 
 The neck, arms, and particularly the elbows bare, 
 in order that they may he agreeably painted and 
 mottled by Mr. John Frost, nose-painter general, 
 of the colour of Castile soap. Shoes of kid, the 
 thinnest that can possibly be procured ; as they 
 tend to promote colds and make a lady look in- 
 teresting (i. e. grizzly). Picnic silk stockings 
 with lace clocks, flesh-coloured are most fashion- 
 able, as they have the appearance of bare legs, 
 nudity being all the rage. The stockings care- 
 lessly bespattered with mud, to agree with the 
 gown, which should be bordered about three 
 inches deep with the most fashionable coloured 
 mud that can be found : the ladies permitted to 
 hold up their trains, after they have swept two or 
 three streets, in order to shew the clocks of 
 their stockings. The shawl scarlet, crimson, 
 flame, orange, salmon, or any other combustible 
 or brimstone colour, thrown over one shoulder 
 like an Indian blanket, with one end dragging 
 on the ground. 
 
 N. B. If the ladies have not a red shawl at 
 hand, a red petticoat turned topsy-turvy, over 
 the shoulders, would do just as well. This is 
 called being dressed d la drabble. 
 
 When the ladies do not go abroad of a morn- 
 ing, the usual chimney corner dress is a dotted^ 
 spotted, striped, or cross-barred gown ; a yellow- 
 
246 STYLE. 
 
 ish, whitish, smokish, dirty coloured shawl, and 
 the hair curiously ornamented with little bits of 
 newspapers, or pieces of a letter from a dear 
 friend. This is called the f< Cinderella dress/* 
 
 The recipe for a full dress, is as follows : take 
 of spider net, crape, sattin, gymp, catgut, gauze, 
 whalebone, lace, bobbin, ribbons, and artificial 
 flowers, as much as will rig out the congregation 
 of a village church ; to these add as many 
 spangles, beads, and gew-gaws, as would be suffi- 
 cient to turn the heads of all t'tie fashionable fair 
 ones of Nootka Sound. Let Mrs. Toole or Ma- 
 dame Bouchard patch all these articles together, 
 one upon another; dash them plentifully over 
 with stars, bugles, and tinsel, and they will alto- 
 gether form a dress, which, hung upon a lady's 
 back, cannot fail of supplying the place of beauty, 
 youths and grace, and of reminding the spectator, 
 of that celebrated region of finery, called Bag- 
 fair. 
 
 ON STYLE. 
 
 BY WILLIAM WIZARD, Esq. 
 
 Style, a manner of writing) title 5 pin of a dial j the pistil 
 oftplants. Johnson. 
 
 Style is ——style. Linkum Fidelius. 
 
 Now, I would not give a straw for either of 
 the above definitions, though I think the latter 
 
STYLE. 247 
 
 is by far the most satisfactory; and I do wish 
 sincerely every modern numskull who takes hold 
 of a subject he knows nothing about, would 
 adopt honest Linkum's mode of explanation. 
 Blair's lectures on this article have not thrown 
 a whit more light on the subject of my inquiries ; 
 they puzzled me just as much, as did the learned 
 and laborious expositions and illustrations of the 
 worthy professor of our college, in the middle 
 of which I generally had the ill luck to fall 
 asleep. 
 
 This same word style, though but a diminutive 
 word, assumes to itself more contradictions, and 
 significations, and eccentricities, than any mono- 
 syllable in the language is legitimately entitled 
 to. It is an arrant little humourist of a word, 
 and full of whim whams, which occasions me to 
 like it hugely ; but it puzzled me most wickedly 
 on my first return from a long residence abroad, 
 having crept into fashionable use during my ab- 
 sence; and had it not been for friend Evergreen, 
 and that thrifty sprig of knowledge Jeremy Cock- 
 loft the younger, I should have been, to this day^ 
 ignorant of its meaning. 
 
 Though it would seem that the people of all 
 countries are equally vehement in the pursuit of 
 this phantom Style, yet in almost all of them 
 there is a strange diversity of opinion as to what 
 constitutes its essence ; and every different class, 
 ike the Pagan nations, adore it under a different 
 
248 STYLE. 
 
 form. In England, for instance, an honest cifc 
 packs up himself, his family, and his style, in a 
 buggy or tim whiskey, and rattles away on Sun- 
 day with his fair partner blooming beside him, 
 like an eastern bride, and two chubby children 
 squatting like Chinese images, at his feet. A 
 baronet requires a chariot and pair ; a lord 
 must needs have a barouche and four; but a 
 duke ; oh I a duke cannot possibly lumber his 
 style along under a coach and six, and half a 
 score of footmen into the bargain. In China a 
 puissant mandarine loads at least three elephants 
 with style ; and an overgrown sheep at the Cape 
 of Good Hope, trails along his tail and his style 
 on a wheelbarrow. In Egypt or at Constanti- 
 nople, style consists in the quantity of fur and 
 fine cloaths a lady can put on without danger of 
 suffocation. Here it is otherwise, and consists 
 inthe quantity she can put off without the risk 
 of freezing. A Chinese lady is thought prodigal 
 of her charms, if she exposes the tip of her nose, 
 or the ends of her fingers, to the ardent gaze of 
 bystanders : and I recollect, that all Canton was 
 i n a buzz in consequence of the great belle Miss 
 Nangfou-s peeping out of the window with her 
 face uncovered ! Here the style is to shew not 
 only the face, but the neck, shoulders, &c ; and a 
 lady never presumes to hide them, except when 
 she is not at home, and not sufficiently undressed 
 to see company. 
 
BELLBRAZEN. 249 
 
 This style has ruined the peace and harmony 
 of many a worthy household ; for no sooner do 
 they set up for style, but instantly all the old 
 comfortable, sans ceremonie furniture is discard- 
 ed, and you stalk cautiously about, amongst 
 the uncomfortable splendour of Grecian chairs, 
 Egyptian tables, Turkey carpets, and Etruscan 
 vases. This vast improvement in furniture de- 
 mands an increase in the domestic establishment; 
 and a family that once required two or three ser- 
 vants for convenience, now employ half a dozen 
 for style. 
 
 Bellbrazen, late favourite of my unfortunate 
 friend Dessalines, was one of these patterns of 
 style ; and whatever freak she was seized with, 
 however preposterous, was implicitly followed by 
 all who would be considered as admitted in the 
 stylish arcana. She was once seized with a whim 
 wham that tickled the whole court. She could 
 not lay down to take an afternoon's ldl but she 
 must have one servant to scratch her head ; two 
 to tickle her feet, and a fourth to fan her delect- 
 able person while she slumbered. The thing 
 took ; it became the rage, and not a sable belle 
 in all Hayti but what insisted upon being fanned, 
 and scratched, and tickled in the true imperial 
 style. Sneer not at this picture, my most excel- 
 lent town's women, for who among you but are 
 following fashions equally absurd ! 
 
 Style, according to Evergreen's account, con- 
 
250 THE FASHIONABLE YULGAR. 
 
 sists in certain fashions, or certain eccentricities, 
 or certain manners of certain people, in certain 
 situations, and possessed of a certain share of 
 fashion or importance. A red cloak, for instance, 
 on the shoulders of an old market woman, is re- 
 garded with contempt ; it is vulgar, it is odious: 
 fling, however, its usurping rival, a red shawl, 
 over the fine figure of a fashionable belle, and 
 let her flame away with it in Broadway, or in a 
 ball room, and it is immediately to be the style. 
 
 The modes of attaining this certain situation 
 which entitles its holder to style, are various and 
 opposite : the most ostensible is the attainment 
 of wealth, the possession of which, changes at 
 once the pert airs of vulgar ignorance into 
 fashionable ease, and elegant vivacity. It is highly 
 amusing to observe the gradations of. a family 
 aspiring to style, and the devious windings they 
 pursue in order to attain it. While beating up 
 against wind and tide they are the most complai- 
 sant beings in the world; they keep " booing and 
 booing," as M 'Sycophant says, until you would 
 suppose them incapable of standing upright; 
 they kiss their hands to every body who has the 
 least claim to style. Their familiarity is intoler- 
 able, and they absolutely overwhelm you with 
 their friendship and loving kindness: but having 
 once gained the envied pre-eminence, never were 
 beings in the world more changed. They assume 
 the luost intolerable caprices ; at one time ad- 
 
TIMOTHV GIBLET. 251 
 
 dress you with importunate sociability; at an- 
 other time pass you by with silent indifference ; 
 sometimes sit up in their chairs in all the majesty 
 of dignified silence, and at another time bounce 
 about with all the obstreperous ill bred noise of 
 a little hoyden just broke loose from a boarding 
 school. 
 
 Another feature which distinguishes these new 
 made fashionables, is the inveteracy with which 
 they look down upon the honest people who are 
 struggling to climb up to the same envied height. 
 They never fail to salute them witli the mostsarcas- 
 tic reflections ; and, like so many worthyhod-men 
 clambering a ladder, each one looks down upon 
 his next neighbour below, and makes no scruple 
 of shaking the dust oft' his shoes into his eyes. 
 Thus, by dint of perseverance, merely, they come 
 to be considered as established denizens of the 
 great world ; as in some barbarous nations, an 
 oyster-shell is of sterling value, and a copper 
 washed counter will pass current for genuine 
 gold. 
 
 In no instance have I seen this grasping after 
 style more whimsically exhibited than in the family 
 of my old acquaintance Timothy Giblet, I recol- 
 lect old Giblet when I was a boy, aud he was the 
 most surly curmudgeon I ever knew. He was a 
 perfect scare-crow to the small fry of the day, 
 and inherited the hatred of all these unlucky little 
 shavers : for never could we assemble about hi* 
 
252 THE YOUNG GIBLETS. 
 
 door of an evening to play, and make a little 
 hub-bub, but out he sallied from his nest like a 
 spider, flourished his formidable horse-whip, and 
 dispersed the whole crew in the twinkling of a 
 lamp. I perfectly remember a bill he sent into 
 my father for a pane of glass I had accidentally 
 broken, which came well nigh getting me a sound 
 flogging ; and I remember, as perfectly, the next 
 night I revenged myself by breaking half a dozen. 
 Giblet was as arrant a grub-worm as ever crawled; 
 and the only rules of right and wrong he cared a 
 button for, were the rules of multiplication and 
 addition, which he practised much more success- 
 fully than he did any of the rules of religion or 
 morality. He used to declare they were the true 
 golden rules , and he took special care to put 
 Cocker's Arithmetic in the hands of his children, 
 before they had read ten pages in the Bible or 
 "Prayer Book. The practice of these favourite 
 maxims was at length crowned with the harvest 
 of success ; and after a life of incessant self-denial 
 and starvation, and after enduring all the pounds, 
 shillings, and pence miseries of a miser, he had 
 the satisfaction of seeing himself worth a plum, 
 and of dying just as he had determined to enjoy 
 the remainder of his days in contemplating his 
 great wealth and accumulating mortgages. 
 
 His children inherited his money, but they 
 buried the disposition, and every other memorial 
 of their father in his grave, Fired with a noble 
 
THE YOUNG GIBLETS. 253 
 
 thirst for style, they instantly emerged from the 
 retired lane in which themselves and their accom- 
 plishments had hitherto been buried, and they 
 blazed, and they whizzed, and they cracked about 
 town, like a nest of squibs and devils in a fire- 
 work. I can liken their sudden eclat to nothing 
 but that of the locust, which is hatched in the 
 dust, where it increases and swells up to maturity, 
 and after feeling for a moment the vivifying rays 
 of the sun, bursts forth a mighty insect, and flutters, 
 and rattles, and buzzes from every tree; the 
 little warblers who have long cheered the wood- 
 lands with their dulcet notes, are stunned by the 
 discordant racket of these upstart intruders, and 
 contemplate in contemptuous silence, their tinsel, 
 and their noise. 
 
 Having once started, the Giblets were deter- 
 mined that nothing should stop them in their 
 career, until they had run their full course, and 
 arrived at the very tip-top of style. Every tailor, 
 every shoe-maker, every coach-maker, every mil- 
 liner, every mantua-maker, every paper-hanger, 
 every piano-teacher, and every dancing-master 
 in the city were enlisted in their service ; and the 
 willing wights most courteously answered their 
 call, and fell to work to build up the fame of the 
 Giblets, as they had done that of many an aspiring 
 family before them. In a little time the ladies 
 could dance the waltz, thunder Lodoiska, murder 
 French, kill time, and commit violence on ike 
 
254 THE YOUNG GIBLETS. 
 
 face of nature in a landscape in water colours, 
 equal to the best lady in the land ; and the young 
 gentlemen were seen lounging at the corners 
 of streets, and driving tandem ; heard talking 
 loud at the theatre, and laughing in church, 
 with as much ease, and grace, and modesty, as if 
 they had been gentlemen all the days of their 
 lives. 
 
 And the Giblets arrayed themselves in scarlet, 
 and in fine linen, and seated themselves in high 
 places, but nobody noticed them, exccptto honour 
 them with a little contempt. The Giblets made 
 a prodigious splash in their own opinion ; but 
 nobody extolled them, except the tailors, and 
 the milliners who had been employed in manu- 
 facturing their paraphernalia. The Giblets 
 thereupon being, like Caleb Quotem, determined 
 to have " a place at the review/' fell to work 
 more fiercely than ever ; they gave dinners, and 
 they gave balls, they hired cooks, they hired 
 fidlers, they hired confectioners, and they would 
 have kept a newspaper in pay, had they not been 
 all bought up, at that time, for the election. They 
 invited the dancing men, and the dancing women, 
 and the gormandizers, and the epicures of the 
 city, to come and make merry at their expense ; 
 and the dancing men, and the dancing women, 
 and the epicures, and the gormandizers did come, 
 and they did make merry at their expense, and 
 they ate, and they drank, and they capered, and 
 
THE PERFECTION OF STYLE. 255 
 
 they danced, and they laughed at their enter- 
 tainers. 
 
 Then commenced the hurry, and the bustle 
 and the mighty nothingness of fashionable life: 
 such rattling in coaches ! such flaunting in the 
 streets ! such slamming of box doors at the 
 theatre ! such a tempest of bustle and unmean- 
 ing noise wherever they appeared! The Giblets 
 were seen here, and there, and every where ; they 
 visited every body they knew, and every body they 
 did not know, and there was no getting along for 
 the Giblets. 
 
 Their plan at length succeeded. By dint of 
 dinners, of feeding, and frolicking the town, the 
 Giblet family worked themselves into notice, and 
 enjoyed the ineffable pleasure of being for ever 
 pestered by visitors, who cared nothing about 
 them, of being squeezed, and smothered, and 
 parboiled at nightly balls, and evening tea par- 
 ties ; they were allowed the privilege of forget- 
 ting the very few old friends they once possess- 
 ed ; they turned their noses up in the wind at 
 every thing that was not genteel, and their sub- 
 lime manners, and sublime affectation, left it 
 no longer a matter of doubt that the Giblets were 
 perfectly in the style. 
 
256 MUSTAPHA RUBADUB KELI KUAN. 
 
 LETTER 
 
 From MVSTAPHA RUBADUB KELT KHAN to ASEM 
 BACCHEM, principal Slave - driver to his Highness the 
 Bashaw [of Tripoli, 
 
 The deep shadows of midnight gather around 
 me, the footsteps of the passenger have ceased in 
 the streets, and nothing disturbs the holy silence 
 of the hour, save the sound of distant drums, 
 mingled with the shouts, the bawlings, and the 
 discordant revelry of his majesty, the sovereign 
 mob. Let the hour be sacred to friendship, and 
 consecrated to thee, oh thou brother of my 
 soul! 
 
 Oh Asem! I almost shrink at the recollection 
 of the scenes of confusion, of licentious disor- 
 ganization which I have witnessed during the 
 last three days. I have beheld this whole city, 
 nay this whole state, given up to the tongue and 
 the pen, to the puffers, the bawlers, the babblers, 
 and the slang whangers. I have beheld the com- 
 munity convulsed with a civil war (or civil talk ) 
 individuals verbally massacred, families annihilat- 
 ed by whole sheets full, and slangwhangers coolly 
 bathing their pens in ink, and rioting in the 
 slaughter of their thousands. I have seen, in 
 short, that awful despot, the people, in the mo- 
 ment of unlimited power, wielding newspapers 
 in one hand, and with the other scattering mud 
 
AN ELECTION. 25^ 
 
 and filth about, like some desperate lunatic re- 
 lieved from the restraints of his strait waistcoat. 
 I have seen beggars on horseback, raggamuffins 
 riding in coaches, and swine seated in places of 
 honour : I have seen liberty ; I have seen equa- 
 lity ; I have seen fraternity ! I have seen that 
 great political puppet-show — an election. 
 
 A few days ago the friend whom I have men- 
 tioned in some of my former letters, called upon 
 me to accompany him to witness this grand cere- 
 mony, and we forthwith sallied out to the 'polls 
 as he called them. Though for several weeks 
 before this splendid exhibition, nothing else had 
 been talked of, yet I do assure thee I was entirely 
 ignorant of its nature; and when on coming up 
 to a church, my companion informed me we were 
 at the poll, I supposed that an election was some 
 great religious ceremony, like the feast of Ra- 
 mazan, or the great festival of Haraphat, so cele- 
 brated in the east. 
 
 My friend, however, Undeceived me at once, 
 and entered into a long dissertation on the na- 
 ture and object of an election, the substance of 
 which, was nearly to this effect. " You know/' 
 said he, " that this country is engaged in a vio- 
 lent internal warfare, and suffers a variety of 
 evils from civil dissentions. An election is the 
 grand trial of strength; the decisive battle when 
 the belligerents draw out their forces in martial 
 array; when every leader burning with warlikt 
 
 VOL. II. s 
 
358 PREPARATIONS FOK AN ELECTION. 
 
 ardour, and encouraged by the shouts and accla- 
 mations of tatterdemalions, buffoons, dependents, 
 parasites, toad-eaters, scrubs, vagrants, mumpers, 
 faggamuffins, bravoes, and beggars in bis rear, 
 and puffed up by his bellows-blowing slang 
 changers, Waves gallantly the banners of faction, 
 and presses forward to office and immortality ! 
 
 <e For a month or two previous to the critical 
 period which is to decide this important affair, 
 the whole community is in a ferment. Every 
 man of whatever rank or degree (such is the 
 wonderful patriotism of the people) disinterest- 
 edly neglects his business, to devote himself to 
 his country ; and not an ignorant fellow but feels 
 himself inspired on this occasion, with as much 
 warmth in favour of the cause he has espoused, 
 as if all the comfort of his life, or even his life 
 itself, was dependent on the issue. Grand coun- 
 cils of war are in the first place called by the 
 different powers/which are dubbed general meet- 
 ings, where all the head workmen of the party 
 collect and arrange the order of battle ; appoint 
 the different commanders, and their subordinate 
 instruments, and furnish the funds indispensable 
 for supplying the expenses of the war. Inferior 
 councils are next called in the different classes or 
 wards, consisting of young cadets, who are can- 
 didates for offices; idlers who come there from 
 mere curiosity, and orators who appear for the 
 purpose of detailing all the crimes, the faults or 
 
EJECTION ORATORS* 259 
 
 Vveaknesses of their opponents, and speaking the 
 sense of the meeting, as it is called; for as the 
 meeting generally consists of men whose quota 
 of sense, taken individually, would make but a 
 poor figure, these orators are appointed to col- 
 lect it all in a lump, when 1 assure you it makes 
 a very formidable appearance, and furnishes suf- 
 ficient matter to spin an oration of two or three 
 hours. §'<«$'i 
 
 ff The orators who declaim at thesemeetingsare, 
 with few exceptions, men of the most profound 
 and perplexed eloquence ; who are the oracles of 
 barber's shops, market-places, and porter-houses; 
 and who you may see every day at the corner of 
 the streets, taking honest men prisoners by the 
 button, and haran^uino- them without mercv and 
 without end. These orators, in addressing an 
 audience, generally mount a chair, a table, or an 
 empty beer barrel (which last is supposed to 
 afford considerable inspiration) and thunder away 
 their combustible sentiments at the heads of the 
 audience, who are generally so busily employed 
 in smoking, drinking, and hearing themselves 
 talk, that they seldom hear a word of the matter. 
 This, however, is of little moment; for as they 
 come there to agree, at all events, to a certain set 
 of resolutions, or articles of war, it is not at all 
 necessary to hear the speech, more especially as 
 few would understand it if they did. Do not 
 suppose, however, that the minor persons of the 
 
 1 » 
 
1860 ELECTION ORATORS. 
 
 meeting are entirely idle. Besides smoking and 
 drinking, which are generally practised, there are 
 few who do not come with as great a desire to 
 talk as the orator himself; each has his little 
 circle of listeners, in the midst of whom he sets 
 his hat on one side of his head, and deals out 
 matter of fact information, and draws self-evident 
 conclusions, with the pertinacity of a pedant, 
 and to the great edification of his gaping audi- 
 tors. Nay the very urchins from the nursery, 
 who are scarcely emancipated from the domi- 
 nion of the birch, on these occasions strut pigmy 
 great men, bellow forth the instruction of grey 
 bearded ignorance, and like the frog in the fable, 
 endeavour to puff themselves up to the size of 
 the great object of their emulation; the prin- 
 cipal orator. " 
 
 " But, head of Mahomet !" cried I, " is it not 
 preposterous to a degree for those puny whips- 
 ters to attempt to lecture age and experience ? 
 they should be sent to school to learn better.** 
 "Not at all/' replied my friend ; "for as an elec- 
 tion is nothing more than a war of words, the 
 man who can wag his tongue with the greatest 
 elasticity, whether he speaks to the purpose or 
 not, is entitled to lecture at ward-meetings and 
 polls, and instruct all who are inclined to listen 
 to him. You may have remarked a ward-meet- 
 ing of politic dogs, where, although the great dog 
 is ostensibly the leader, and makes most noise. 
 
ASPIRING TOUTHS. 361 
 
 yet every little scoundrel of a cur has some- 
 thing to say, in proportion to his insignificance, 
 fidgets and worries, and yelps about mightily, 
 in order to obtain the notice and approbation of 
 his betters. Thus it is with these little beard- 
 less bread and butter politicians, who on this 
 occasion escape from the jurisdiction of their 
 mama's, to attend the affairs of the nation. You 
 will see them engaged in a dreadful wordy con- 
 test with old carmen, coblers, and tailors ; and 
 plume themselves not a little if they should 
 chance to gain a victory. Aspiring spirits ! how 
 interesting are the first dawnings of political 
 greatness ! An election, my friend, is a nursery, 
 or hot-bed of genius in a logocracy ; and I look 
 with enthusiasm on a troop of these liliputian 
 partizans, as so many chatterers, and orators, and 
 puffers, and slangwhangers in embryo* who will 
 one day take an important part in the quarrels 
 and wordy wars of their country. 
 
 " As the time for fighting the decisive battle 
 approaches, appearances become more and more 
 alarming ; committees are appointed, who hold 
 little encampments, from whence they send out 
 small detachments of tattlers, to reconnoitre, ha- 
 rass and skirmish with the enemy, and if possible 
 ascertain their numbers; every body seems big with 
 the mighty event that is impending ; the orators 
 gradually swell up beyond their usual size ; the 
 little orators grow greater and greater, the secre- 
 
262 THE DAY OF ELECTION. 
 
 taries of the war committees, strut about looking 
 like wooden oracles; the puffers put on the airs 
 of mighty consequence ; the slangwhangers deal 
 out direful inuemlos, and threats of doughty 
 import, and all is buzz, murmur, suspense, and 
 sublimity ! 
 
 <( At length the day arrives. The storm that 
 has been so long gathering and threatening in 
 distant thunders, bursts forth in terrible explo- 
 sion. All business is at an end; the whole city 
 is in a tumult; the people are running belter 
 skelter they know not whither, and they know 
 not why; the hackney coaches rattle through 
 the streets, with thundering vehemence, loaded 
 with recruiting Serjeants, who have been prowl- 
 ing in cellars and caves, to unearth some miser- 
 able minion of poverty and ignorance, who will 
 barter his vote for a glass of beer, or a ride in a 
 coach with such fine gentlemen! The buzzards of 
 the party scamper from poll to poll, on foot or 
 on horseback; and they hurry from committee 
 to committee, and buzz and chafe, and fume, 
 and talk big, and do nothing; like the vagabond 
 drone, who wastes his time in the laborious idle- 
 ness of see saw-song, and busy nothingness." 
 
 I know not how long my friend would have 
 continued his detail, had he not been interrupted 
 by a squabble which took place between two old 
 continentals, as they were called. It seems they 
 had entered into an argument of the respective 
 
SOVEREIGN PEOPLE. 263 
 
 merits of their cause, and not being able to make 
 each other clearly understood, resorted to what 
 are called knock-down argummts ; which form the 
 superlative degree of the argumentum ad hq- 
 minem, but are, in my opinion, extremely incon- 
 sistent with the true spirit of a genuine logo- 
 cracy. After they had beaten each other soundly, 
 and set the whole mob together by the ears, they 
 came to a full explanation, when it was dis- 
 covered that they were both of the same way of 
 thinking; whereupon they shook each other 
 heartily by the hand, and laughed with great 
 glee at their humorous misunderstanding. 
 
 I could not help being struck with the astonish- 
 ing number of ragged, dirty looking persons, 
 that swaggered about the place, and seemed 
 to think themselves the bashaws of the land. I 
 inquired of my friend if these people were em- 
 ployed to drive away the hogs, dogs, and other 
 intruders that might thrust themselves in, and 
 interrupt the ceremony ? " By no means/' re- 
 plied he; " these are the representatives of the 
 sovereign people, who come here to make go- 
 vernors, senators, and members of assembly, and 
 are the source of all power and authority in this 
 nation." " Preposterous !" said I : " how is it 
 possible that such men can be capable of dis- 
 tinguishing between an honest man and a knave; 
 or even if they were, will it not always happen 
 that they are led by the nose, by some intriguing 
 
264 
 
 BEER BARRELS. 
 
 demagogue, and made the mere tools of ambi- 
 tious political jugglers? Surely it would be bet- 
 ter to trust to Providence,, or even to chance, for 
 governors, than resort to the discriminating 
 powers of an ignorant mob. I plainly perceive 
 the consequence ; a man who possesses superior ta- 
 lents, and that honest pride which ever accom- 
 panies this possession, will always be sacrificed 
 to some creeping insect, who will prostitute him- 
 •eif to familiarity with the lowest of mankind, 
 and like the idolatrous Egyptian, worship the 
 wallowing tenants of filth and mire." 
 
 " All this may be true enough," replied my 
 friend, who seemed inclined to shift the conver- 
 sation; "but after all you cannot say, but this 
 is a free country, and that the people can get 
 drunk cheaper here, particularly at the elections, 
 than in the despotic countries of the East." I 
 could not with any degree of propriety or truth 
 deny this last assertion, for just at that moment, 
 a patriotic brewer arrived with a load of beer, 
 which for a moment occasioned a cessation of 
 argument; the great crowd of buzzards, puffers, 
 and old continentals of all parties, who throng 
 to the polls to persuade, to cheat, or to force the 
 freeholders into the right way, and to maintain 
 the freedom of suffrage, seemed for a moment to 
 forget their antipathies, and joined heartily in a 
 copious libation of this patriotic and argumen- 
 tative beverage. 
 
CONDESCENSION OF A CANDIDATE. 26b 
 
 These beer barrels, indeed, seem to be the most 
 able logicians, well stored with that kind of 
 sound argument, best suited to the comprehen- 
 sion, and most relished by the mob, or sovereign 
 people, who are never so tractable as when 
 operated upon by this convincing liquor, which, 
 in fact, seems to be imbued with the very spirit 
 of a logocracy. No sooner does it begin its ope- 
 ration, than the tongue waxes exceeding valour- 
 ous, and becomes impatient for some mighty 
 conflict. The puffer puts himself at the head of 
 his body-guard of buzzards and his legion of 
 raggamuffins, and woe then to every unhappy ad- 
 versary who is uninspired by the deity of the beer 
 barrel; he is sure to be talked, and argued into 
 complete insignificance. 
 
 While I was making these observations, I was 
 surprized to observe a bashaw, high in office, 
 shaking a fellow by the hand, who looked rather 
 more ragged than a scare-crow, and inquiring, 
 with apparent solicitude, concerning the health 
 of his family ; after which he slipped a little 
 folded paper into his hand and turned away. I 
 could not enough applaud his humility in shak- 
 ing the fellow's hand, and his benevolence in re- 
 lieving his distresses ; for I imagined the paper 
 contained something for the poor man's neces- 
 sities : and truly he seemed verging towards the 
 last stage of starvation. My friend, however, 
 uoon undeceived me, by saying that this was a a 
 
26G GHOST OF WASHINGTON. 
 
 elector, and the bashaw had merely given him 
 the list of candidates, for whom he was to vote. 
 " Ho ! ho !" said I, iC then he is a particular friend 
 ( of the bashaw's \" " By no means/' replied my 
 friend, " the bashaw will pass him without notice 
 the day after the election, except, perhaps, just 
 to drive over him with his coach. 5 * 
 
 My friend then proceeded to inform me, that 
 for sometime before, and during the continuance 
 of an election, there was a delectable courtship, or 
 intrigue, carried on between the great bashaws, 
 and mother Mob. That mother Mob generally 
 preferred the attentions of the rabble, or of fel- 
 lows of her own stamp ; but would sometimes 
 condescend to be treated to a feasting, or any 
 thing of that kind, at the bashaw's expense; 
 nay, sometimes, when she was in a good humour, 
 she would condescend to lay with them in her 
 rougli way : woe be to the bashaw who attempt- 
 ed to be familiar with her, for she was the most 
 pestilent, cross, crabbed, scolding, thieving, 
 scratching, toping, wrong-headed, rebellious, and 
 abominable termagant, that was ever let loose in 
 the world, to t}ic confusion of honest gentlemen 
 bashaws. 
 
 Just then a fellow came round, and distribut- 
 ed among the crowd, a number of hand bills, 
 written by the Ghost of Washington; the fame 
 of whose illustrious actions, and still more illus- 
 trious virtues, has reached even the remotest 
 
GHOST OF WASHINGTON. 267 
 
 regions of the East, and who is venerated by this 
 people as the father of his country. On reading 
 this paltry paper I could not restrain my indig- 
 nation. " Insulted hero/' cried I ; " must eveu 
 thy name be profaned, thy memory disgraced, 
 thy spirit drawn down from heaven to administer 
 to the brutal violence of party rage ! Is it thus 
 the necromancers of the East, by their infernal 
 incantations, sometimes call up the shades of the 
 just, to give their sanction to frauds, to lies, and 
 to every species of enormity ?" My friend smiled 
 at my warmth, and observed, that raising ghosts, 
 and not only raising them, but making them 
 speak, was one of the miracles of an election. 
 " And believe me," continued he, " there is good 
 reason for the ashes of departed heroes being dis- 
 turbed on these occasions ; for such is the sandy 
 foundation of our government, that there never 
 happens an election of an alderman, or a col- 
 lector, or even a constable, but we are in immi- 
 nent danger of losing our liberties, and becom- 
 ing a province of France, or tributary to the 
 British Islands." (c By the hump of Mahomet's 
 camel," said I, <( but this is only another strik- 
 ing example of the prodigious great scale on 
 which every thing is transacted in this country !" 
 
 By this time 1 had become tired of the scene ; 
 my head ached with the uproar of voices, mingl- 
 ing in all the discordant tones of triumphant ex- 
 clamation, nonsensical argument, intemperate re- 
 
968 
 
 THE MOB. 
 
 proach, and drunken absurdity. The confusion 
 was such as no language can adequately de- 
 scribe ; and it seemed as if all the restraints of 
 decency, and all the bonds of law, had been 
 broken, and given place to the wide ravages of 
 licentious brutality. These, thought I, are the 
 orgies of liberty; these are the manifestations of 
 the spirit of independence; these are the symbols 
 of man's sovereignty! Head of Mahomet ! with 
 what a fatal and inexorable despotism do empty 
 names and ideal phantoms exercise their domi- 
 nion over the human mind ! The experience of 
 ages has demonstrated, that in all nations, bar- 
 barous or enlightened, the mass of the people, 
 the Mob, must be slaves, or they will be tyrants ; 
 but their tyranny will not be long: some ambi- 
 tious leader, having at first condescended to be 
 their slave, will at length become their master ; 
 and in proportion to the vileness of his former 
 servitude, will be the severity of his subsequent 
 tyranny. Yet with innumerable examples star- 
 ing them in the face, the people still bawl out, 
 Liberty; by which they mean nothing but free- 
 dom from every species of legal restraint, and 
 a warrant for all kinds of licentiousness. The 
 bashaws and leaders, moreover, in courting the 
 mob, convince them of their power, and by ad- 
 ministering to their passions, for the purposes of 
 ambition, they at length learn, by fatal ex- 
 perience, that he who worships the btast that 
 
FRENCH IHCONNUS. 260 
 
 carries him on its back, will sooner or later be 
 thrown into the dust, and trampled under foot, 
 by the animal who has learnt the secret of its 
 power by this very adoration. 
 
 Ever thine, 
 
 Mustapha. 
 
 NOTE BY WILLIAM WIZARD, ESQ. 
 
 "My friend Pindar, and in fact our whole junto 
 has been accused of an unreasonable hostility to 
 the French nation : and I am informed by a Pa- 
 risian correspondent, that our first number played 
 the very devil in the court of St. Cloud. His 
 imperial majesty got into a most outrageous pas- 
 sion, and being withal a waspish little gentle- 
 man, had nearly kicked his bosom friend Talley- 
 rand out of the cabinet. In the paroxysms of his 
 wrath, he insisted upon it, that the nation was 
 assailed in its most vital part ; being, like Achilles, 
 extremely sensitive to any attacks upon the heel. 
 When my correspondent sent off his dispatches, 
 it was still in doubt what measures would be 
 adopted; but it was strongly suspected, that ve- 
 hement representations would be made to our 
 government. Willing, therefore, to save our exe- 
 cutive from any embarrassment on the subject, 
 and above all, from the disagreeable alternative 
 Of sending an apology by the Hornet, we do assure 
 Mr. Jefferson, that there is nothing further from 
 
270 FRENCH IKCONNUS. 
 
 our thoughts than the subversion of the Gallic 
 empire, or any attack on the interests, tranquil- 
 lity, or reputation of the nation at large, which 
 we seriously declare possesses the highest rank in 
 our estimation. Nothing less than the national 
 welfare'Vould have induced us to trouble our- 
 selves with this explanation; and in the name of 
 the junto, I once more declare, that" when we 
 toast a Frenchman, we merely mean one of those 
 inconnus, who swarmed to this country from the 
 kitchens and barbers' shops of Nantz, Kourdeaux, 
 and Marseilles ; played the game of leap frog, at 
 all our balls and assemblies ; set this unhappy 
 town hopping mad ; and passed themselves off on 
 our tender-hearted damsels for unfortunate noble- 
 men, ruined in the revolution ! — such only can 
 wince at the lash, and accuse us of severity : and 
 we should be mortified in the extreme, if they 
 did not feel our well intended castigation." 
 
 
THE STRANGER AT HOME. 27 1 
 
 
 
 THE STRANGER AT HOME; 
 
 ■ : . 
 
 OR, 
 
 A TOUR IN BROADWAY. 
 By Jeremy Cockloft, the Younger. 
 
 
 
 " Percgre redit. 
 
 He is returned home from abroad." 
 
 Dictionary 
 
 
 
 PREFACE. yt 
 
 Your learned traveller begins bis travels at 
 the commencement of his journey ; others begin 
 theirs at the end ; and a third class begin any 
 how, and any where, which I think is the true 
 way. A late facetious writer begins what he calls 
 ce A Picture of New York/* with a particular 
 description of Glen's falls, from whence with 
 admirable dexterity, he makes a digression to the 
 celebrated mill rock on Long Island ! Now this 
 is what I like; and I intend in my present 
 tour, to digress as often and as long as I please. 
 If, therefore, I choose to make a hop, skip, and 
 jump to China, or New Holland, or Terra In- 
 cognita, or Communipaw, I can produce a host 
 
2?2 
 
 TOUR IN BR0 4DWAY. 
 
 of examples to justify me, even in books that 
 have been praised by the English Reviewers, whose 
 Jiat being all that is necessary to give books a 
 currency in this country, I am determined, as 
 soon as I finish my edition of Travels in seventy- 
 jive volumes, to transmit it forthwith to them for 
 judgment. If these transatlantic censors praise 
 it, I have no fear of its success in this country, 
 where their approbation gives, like the tower 
 stamp, a fictitious value, and makes tinsel and 
 wampum pass current for classic gold. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 Battery — Flag-staff kept by Louis Keaffee — 
 Keaffee maintains tw# spy-glasses by subscrip- 
 tions ; merchants pay two shillings a year, to 
 look through them at the signal-poles on Staten 
 Island. A very pleasant prospect ; but not so 
 pleasant as that from the Hill of Howth : quere 
 ever been there ? Young seniors go down to 
 the flag-staff, to buy pea-nuts and beer, after the 
 fatigue of their morning studies, and sometimes 
 to play at ball, or some other innocent amuse- 
 ment : digression to the Olympic and Isthmian 
 games, with a description of the Isthmus of Co- 
 rinth, and that of Darien ; to conclude with a 
 dissertation on the Indian custom of offering a 
 whiff of tobacco-smoke to their great spirit 
 Areskan. Return to the battery ; delightful place 
 
TOUR IN BROADWAY. 373 
 
 to indulge in the luxury of sentiment. How va- 
 rious are the mutations of this world ! but a few 
 days, a few hours, at least not above two hundred 
 years ago, and this spot was inhabited by a race 
 of Aborigines, who dwelt in bark huts, lived 
 upon oysters and Indian corn, danced buffalo 
 dances, and were lords fl of the fowl and the 
 brute ;" but the spirit of time, and the spirit of 
 brandy have swept them from their ancient in- 
 heritance : and as the white wave of the ocean, 
 by its ever-toiling assiduity, gains on the brown 
 land, so the white man, by slow and sure de- 
 grees, has gained on the brown savage, and dis- 
 possessed him of the land of his forefathers. 
 Conjectures on the first peopling of America : 
 different opinions on that subject, to the amount 
 of near one hundred : opinion of Augustine Tor- 
 niel, that they are the descendants of Shem and 
 Japhet, who came by the way of Japan td 
 America : Juffridius Petri says they came from 
 Friezeland — Mem. A cold journey. Monsieur 
 Charron says they are descended from the Gauls ; 
 bitter enough : A. Milius from the Celtae ; 
 Kircher from the Egyptians ; Le Compte, from 
 the Phoenicians ; Lescarbot, from the Canaanites, 
 alias the Anthropophagi ; Brerewood, from the 
 Tartars; Grotius, from the Norwegians; and 
 Linkum Fidelius has written two folio volumes, 
 to prove that America was first of all peopled 
 vol. ir. t 
 
274 TOtJR IN BROADWAY. 
 
 either by the Antipodeans, or the Cornish miners,, 
 who, he maintains, might easily have made a 
 subterraneous passage to this country, particu- 
 larly the Antipodeans, who, he asserts, can get 
 along under ground as fast as moles ; — quere, 
 which of these is in the right, or are they all 
 wrong I For my part, I don't see why America 
 had not as good a right to be peopled at first, a9 
 any little contemptible country of Europe, or 
 Asia ; and I am determined to write an essay at 
 my first leisure, to prove that Noah was born 
 here ; and that so far is America from being in- 
 debted to any other country for inhabitants, that 
 they were every one of them peopled by colo- 
 nies from her t— Mem. Battery a very pleasant 
 place to walk on a Sunday evening; not quite 
 genteel though. Every body walks there ; and 
 a pleasure, however genuine, is spoiled by gene- 
 ral participation. The fashionable ladies of 
 New York, turn up their noses, if you ask 
 them to walk on the battery on Sunday. Quere, 
 have they scruples of conscience, or scruples of 
 delicacy ? Neither ; they have only scruples of 
 gentility, which are quite different things. 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 Custom-house ; origin of duties on merchan- 
 dize ; this place much frequented by merchants ; 
 
TOUR IN BROADWAY. 275 
 
 and why ? Different classes of merchants. Im- 
 porters, a kind of nobility : wholesale merchants 
 have the privilege of going to the city assembly! 
 Retail traders cannot go to the assembly. Some 
 curious speculations on the vast distinction be- 
 twixt selling tape by the piece or by the yard. 
 Wholesale merchants look down upon the re- 
 tailers, who, in return, look down upon the 
 green-grocers, who look down upon the market- 
 women, who don't care a straw about any of 
 them. Origin of the distinction of ranks. Dr. 
 Johnson once horribly puzzled to settle the 
 point of precedence between a louse and a flea. 
 Good hint enough to humble purse-proud arro- 
 gance. Custom-house partly used as a lodging- 
 house for the pictures belonging to the Academy 
 of Arts : couldn't afford the statues house-room : 
 most of them in the cellar of the City Hall : poor 
 place for the gods and goddesses, after Olym- 
 pus. Pensive reflections on the ups and downs 
 of lifer Apollo, and the rest of the set, used to 
 cut a great figure in the days of yore. Mem. 
 every dog has his day. Sorry for Venus, though, 
 poor wench, to be cooped up in a cellar, with 
 not a single grace to wait on her ! Eulogy on the 
 gentlemen of the Academy of Arts, for the great 
 spirit with which they began the undertaking, 
 and the perseverance with which they have pur- 
 sued it : it is a pity, however, they began at the 
 
 T 2 
 
e?6 
 
 TOUR IN BROADWAY, 
 
 wrong end. Maxim : If you want a bird and a 
 cage, always buy the cage first — hem ! — a word 
 to the wise !* 
 
 CHAPTER III, 
 
 Bowling-green ; fine place for pasturing cows ; 
 a perquisite of the late corporation ; formerly 
 ornamented with a statue of George III.- — Peo- 
 ple pulled it down in the war to make bullets : 
 great pity, as it might have been given to the 
 academy : it would have become a cellar, as well 
 as any other. The pedestal still remains; because 
 there was no use in pulling that down, as it would 
 cost the corporation money, and not sell for any 
 thing. Mem. " A penny saved, is a penny got." 
 
 * The Academy of Fine Arts was instituted in 1801, by 
 Mr. R. Livingston, when minister plenipotentiary at Paris. 
 A subscription was raised at his suggestion, and a number of 
 paintings and statues were obtained for the instruction of artists. 
 Th« former were placed in a large room at the Custom-house, 
 and the latter which consist of copies in plaister from some of 
 the finest pieces of ancient sculpture, were obliged to be put 
 in a cellar under the State House, where they still remain 
 locked up, for want of a convenient building to exhibit them in. 
 The casts consist of the Fighting Gladiator, the Roman Sena- 
 tor, the reclining Hermaphrodite, the Laocoon Groupe, the 
 Jupiter Tonans, Niobe, Soerates, and several others from the 
 originals at Pari*. Napoleon has made the academy a present 
 of twenty-four large volumes of Italian prints, and several 
 portfolios of drawings. 
 
TOUB IN BROADWAY. x 277 
 
 Tf the pedestal must remain, I would recommend, 
 that a statue of somebody, or something be placed 
 upon it ; for truly it looks quite melancholy and 
 forlorn. Broadway: great difference in the genti- 
 lity of streets. A man who resides in Pearl street, 
 or Chatham-row, derives no kind of dignity 
 from his domicil ; but place him in a certain part 
 of Broadway, between the battery and Wall- 
 street, and he straightway becomes entitled to 
 figure in the Beau Monde, and strut as a person 
 of prodigious consequence. Quere, whether there 
 is a degree of purity in the air of that quarter, 
 which changes the gross particles of vulgarity 
 into gems of refinement and polish ? A question 
 to be asked, but not to be answered. New brick 
 church ! — what a pity it is, the corporation of 
 Trinity church are so poor ! If they could not 
 afford to build a better place of worship, why 
 did they not go about with a subscription ? Even 
 I would have given them a few shillings, rather 
 than our city should have been disgraced by such 
 a pitiful specimen of economy. Wall-street ; 
 City Hall, famous place for catch poles, deputy 
 sheriffs, and young lawyers, which last attend the 
 courts, not because they have business there, but 
 because they have no business any where else. 
 olood i' I ways curdles when I sec a catch pole, 
 they being a species of vermin, who feed and 
 fatten on the common wretchedness of mankind, 
 
278 TOUR IN BROADWAY. 
 
 who trade in misery, and in becoming the execu- 
 tioners of the law., by their oppression and vil- 
 lainy, almost counterbalance all the benefits 
 which are derived from its salutary regulations. 
 Story of Quevedo, about a catch pole possessed by 
 a devil, who, on being interrogated, declared he 
 did not come there voluntarily, but by compul- 
 sion ; and that a decent devil would never, of his 
 own free will, enter into the body of the catch- 
 pole ; instead therefore of doing him the injustice 
 to say, that here was a catchpole bedeviled, they 
 should say it was a devil becatchpoled ; that 
 being in reality the truth. Wonder what has 
 become of the old crier of the court, who used to 
 make more noise in preserving silence, than the 
 audience did in breaking it. If a man happened 
 to drop his cane, the old hero would sing out 
 silence ! in a voice that emulated " the wide- 
 mouthed thunder." On inquiring, found he had 
 retired from business to enjoy the otium cum 
 dignitate, as many great men have done before : 
 strange that wise men, as they are thought, 
 should toil through a whole existence, merely to 
 enjoy a few moments of leisure at last! Why 
 don't they begin to be easy at first, and not pur- 
 chase a moment's pleasure with an age of pain ? 
 Mem. po^ed some of thejockies — eh 1 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 Barber's pole : three different orders of shavers 
 
TOUR IN BROADWAY, 279 
 
 w New York: those who shave pigs ; N. B. 
 Freshmen and Sophomores; those who cut beards, 
 and those who shave notes of hand: the last are 
 the most respectable; because in the course of a 
 year they make more money, and that honestly, 
 than the whole corps of other shavers can do in 
 half a century ; besides it would puzzle a com 
 mon barber to ruin any man, except by cutting 
 his throat ; whereas your higher order of shavers, 
 your true bloodsuckers of the community, seated 
 snugly behind the curtain in watch for prey, live 
 on the vitals of the unfortunate, and grow rich 
 on the ruin of thousands ; yet this last class of 
 barbers are held in high respect in the world : — 
 they never offend against the decencies of life, go 
 often to church, look down on honest poverty 
 walking on foot, and call themselves gentlemen 
 — yea, men of honour ! Lottery- office : another 
 set of capital shavers ! Licensed gambling-houses 
 — good things enough, though ; as they enable a 
 few honest industrious gentlemen to humbug the 
 people, according to law : besides, if the people 
 will be such fools, whose fault is it but their 
 own, if they get bit? Mess. Paff — beg pardon 
 for putting them in such bad company, be- 
 cause they are a. couple of fine fellows. Mem. 
 to recommend Michael's antique snuff-box to 
 all amateurs in the art. Eagle, singing Yan- 
 kee Doodle. N. B. Buffon, Pennant, and 
 
 the rest of the naturalists, all naturals, not to 
 
280 TOUR IN BROADWAV. 
 
 know the eagle was a singing bird. Linkuin Fi- 
 delius knew better ; and gives a long description 
 of a bald eagle that serenaded him once in Ca- 
 nada. Digression. Particular account of the 
 Canadian Indians. Story about Areskou learn- 
 ing to make fishing-nets of a spider's web : don't 
 believe it, though ; because, according to Lin- 
 kum, and many other learned author ities, Ares- 
 kou is the same as Mars, being derived from his 
 Greek name of Ares ; and, if so, he knew well 
 enough what a net was, without consulting a 
 spider. Story of Arachne being changed into a 
 spider, as a reward for having hanged herself. 
 Derivation of the word spinster, from spider. 
 Colophon, now Altobosco, the birth-place of 
 Arachne, remarkable for a famous breed of spi- 
 ders to this day. Mem. nothing like a little 
 scholarship. Make the ignoramuses, i. e. the ma- 
 jority of my readers, stare like wild pigeons. 
 Return to New York by a short cut ; meet a 
 dashing belle in a thick white veil ; tried to get a 
 peep at her face ; saw she squinted a little ; 
 thought so at first ; never saw a face covered 
 with a veil that was worth looking at ; saw some 
 ladies holding a conversation across the street, 
 about going to church next Sunday ; talked so 
 loud, they frightened a carman's horse, who ran 
 away, and overset a basket of gingerbread, with 
 a little boy under it. Mem. I don't much bee Iuq 
 u-e of speaking-trumpets now a days. 
 
TOUR IN BROADWAY. 281 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 Bought a pair of gloves — Dry good stores, the 
 genuine schools of politeness : true Parisian man- 
 ners there : got a pair of gloves, and a pistareen's 
 worth of bows for a dollar ; dog cheap ! Court- 
 landt-street corner : famous place to see the belles 
 go by. Quere, ever been shopping with a lady ? 
 — some account of it. Ladies go into all the 
 shops in the city to buy a pair of gloves : good 
 way of spending time, if they have nothing else 
 to do. Oswego market : looks very like a tri- 
 umphal arch — some account of the manner of 
 erecting them in ancient times. Digression to the 
 Arch duke Charles, and some account of the an- 
 cient Germans — N. B. Quote Tacitus on the sub- 
 ject. Particular description of market baskets, 
 butchers' blocks, and wheelbarrows. Mem. queer 
 things; run upon one wheel! Saw a carman 
 driving full tilt through Broadway ; run over a 
 child : good enough for it : what business had it 
 to be in the way ? Hint concerning the laws 
 against pigs, goats, dogs, and carmen. Grand 
 apostrophe to the sublime science of jurispru- 
 dence : comparison between legislators and tink- 
 ers. Quere, whether it requires greater ability 
 to mend a law, than to mend a kettle ? Inquiry 
 into the utility of making laws that are broken a 
 hundred times a day with impunity. My Lord 
 Coke's opinion on the subject : my Lord, a very 
 
2S2 
 
 TOUK IN BROADWAY. 
 
 great man ; so was Lord Bacon : good story 
 about a criminal, named Hogg, claiming relation- 
 ship with him : Hogg's porter-house, great haunt 
 of Will Wizard ; Will put down there one night 
 by a sea-captain, in argument concerning the 
 era of the Chinese Emperor Whang-po. Hogg's, 
 a capital place for hearing the same stories, the 
 same jokes, and the same songs every night in 
 the year; Mem. except Sunday nights. Fine 
 school for young politicians too : some of the 
 longest and thickest heads of the city come there 
 to settle the nation. Scheme of Ichabocl Fungus, 
 to restore the balance of Europe : comparison 
 between it and a pair of scales, with the Empe- 
 ror Alexander in one, and the Emperor Napoleon 
 in the other — fine fellows; both of a weight : 
 can't tell which will kick the beam. Mem. don't 
 care much, either : nothing to me ; Ichabocl very 
 unhappy about it; thinks Napoleon has an eye 
 on this country; capital places to pasture his 
 horses, and provide for the rest of his family. 
 Dey-street, ancient Dutch name of it, signifying 
 murderer's valley, formerly the site of a great 
 peach orchard. My grandmother's history of 
 the famous peach war, arose from an Indian steal- 
 ing peaches out of this orchard ; good cause as 
 need be for a war, just as good as the balance of 
 power. Anecdote of a war between two Italian 
 states about a bucket. Introduce some capital 
 
moore's poems. 283 
 
 new truisms about the folly of mankind, the am- 
 bition of kings, potentates, and princes, parti- 
 cularly Alexander, Cesar, Charles the Xllth, 
 Napoleon, little King Pepin, and the great 
 Charlemagne. Wind up with an exhortation to 
 the present race of sovereign's to keep the king's 
 peace, and abstain from all those deadly quar- 
 rels which produce battle, murder, and sudden 
 death. Mem. ran my nose against a lamp-post. 
 Conclude in great dudgeon. 
 
 TO THE LADIES. 
 By PINDAR COCKLOFT, Esq. 
 
 Though jogging down the hill of life, 
 
 Without the comfort of a wife; 
 
 And though I ne'er a helpmate chose, 
 
 To stock my house, and mend my hose ; 
 
 With care my person to adorn, 
 
 And spruce me up on Sunday morn : — 
 
 Still do I love the gentle sex, 
 
 And still with cares my brain perplex, 
 
 To keep the fair ones of the age 
 
 Unsullied as the spotless page ; 
 
 All pure, all simple, all refin'd, 
 
 The sweetest solace of mankind. 
 
 I hate the loose insidious jest 
 
 To beauty's modest ear addrest, 
 
 And hold that frowns should never fail 
 
 To check each smooth, but fulsome tale 
 
284 sioorl's poems. 
 
 Hi :. But he whose impious pen should dare 
 Invade the morals of the fair ; 
 To taint that purity divine 
 Which should each female heart enshrine; 
 Though soft his vicious strains should swell, 
 As those which erst from Gabriel fell, 
 Should yet be held aloft to shame, 
 And foul dishonour shade his name. 
 
 Judge, then, my friends, of my surprize, 
 The ire that kindled in my eyes, 
 When I relate, that t'other day, 
 I went a morning call to pay, 
 On two young nieces, just come down 
 To take the polish of the town ; 
 By which I mean no more nor less 
 Than a la Frangoise to undress; 
 To whirl the modest waltz's rounds, 
 Taught by Duport for snug ten pounds. 
 To thump and thunder through a song, 
 Play fortes soft, and dolces strong; 
 Exhibit loud piano feats, 
 Caught from that crotchet hero Meetz : 
 To drive the rose-bloom from the face, 
 And fix the lily in its place ; 
 To doff the white, and in its stead 
 To bounce about in brazen red. 
 
 While in the parlour I delayed, 
 Till they their persons had array'd, 
 A dapper volume caught my eye, 
 That in the window chanced to lie. 
 A book's a friend — I always choose 
 To turn its pages, and peruse — 
 It proved those poems known to famt 
 For praising every cyprian dame. 
 
 
MOORE S POEMS. 
 
 The bantlings of a dapper youth, 
 Renowned for gratitude and truth ; 
 A little pest, hight Tommy M***e, 
 Who hopp'd and skipp'd our country o'er; 
 Who sipp'd our tea, and lived on sops, 
 Revelled on syllabubs and slops. 
 And when his brain of cobweb fine, 
 Was fuddled with fi ve drops of wine, 
 Would all his puny loves rehearse, 
 And many a maid debauch — in verse. 
 
 Surprized to meet in open view 
 A book of such lascivious hue, 
 I chid my nieces, but they say, 
 'Tis all the passion of the day. 
 That many a fashionable belle 
 Will with enraptured accents dwell 
 On the sweet morceaux she's found 
 In this lascivious, cursed, compound! 
 
 Soft do the tinkling numbers roll, 
 And lure to vice th' unthinking soul ; 
 They tempt by softest sounds away ; 
 They lead entranced the heart astray, 
 And Satan's doctrine sweetly sing, 
 As with a seraph's heavenly string. 
 Such sounds, (so good old Homer sung,) 
 Once warbled from the syren's tongue, 
 Sweet melting tones were heard to pour 
 Along Ausonia's sun-gilt shore. 
 Seductive strains in aether float, 
 And every wild deceitful note 
 That could the yielding heart assail, 
 Were wafted on the breathing gale; 
 And every gentle accent bland 
 To tempt Ulysses to their strand . 
 
 m 
 
~S6 moore's poems. 
 
 And can it be, this book so base, 
 Is laid on every window case ? 
 Oh ! fair ones, if you will profane 
 Those breasts where heaven itself should reign, 
 And throw those pure recesses wide, 
 Where peace and virtue should reside, 
 To let the holy pile admit 
 A guest unhallowed, and unfit ; 
 Pray, like the frail ones of the night, 
 Who hide their wanderings from the light, 
 So let your errors secret be, 
 And hide at least your fault from me: 
 Seek some bye corner to explore 
 The smooth polluted pages o'er j 
 There drink th' insidious poison in $ 
 There slily nurse your souls for sinj 
 And while that purity you blight, 
 Which stamps you messengers of light, 
 And sap those mounds the gods bestow, 
 To keep you spotless here below : 
 Still in compassion to our race, 
 Who joy not only in the face, 
 But in that more exalted part, 
 The sacred temple of the heart -, 
 Oh ! hide for ever from our view, 
 The fatal mischief you pursue 3 
 Let men your praises still exalt, 
 And none but angels mourn your fault. 
 
287 , 
 NEW YORK ASSEMBLY. 
 
 The assemblies this year (1807) have gained 
 a great accession of beauty. Several brilliant 
 stars have arisen from the east, and from the 
 north, to brighten the firmament of fashion : 
 among the number I have discovered another 
 planet, which rivals even Venus in lustre, and I 
 claim equal honour with Herschell for my dis- 
 covery. I shall take some future opportunity to 
 describe this planet, and the numerous satellites 
 which revolve around it. 
 
 At the last assembly, the company began to 
 make some show about eight, but the most fashion- 
 able delayed their appearance until about nine — 
 nine being the number of the muses, and therefore 
 the best possible hour for beginning to exhibit the 
 graces. (This is meant for a pretty play upo* 
 words, and I assure my readers that I think it 
 very tolerable.) 
 
 Poor Will Honeycomb, whose memory I hold 
 in special consideration, even with his half cen- 
 tury of experience, would have been puzzled to 
 point out the humours of a lady by her prevail- 
 ing colours : for the " rival queens" of fashion, 
 Mrs. Toole and Madame Bouchard, appeared to 
 have exhausted their wonderful inventions in the 
 different disposition, variation, and combination 
 of tints and shades. The philosopher who main- 
 tained that black was white, and that of court* 
 
288 NEW YORK ASSEMBLY. 
 
 there was no such colour as white,, might have 
 given some colour to his theory on this occasion, 
 by the absence of poor forsaken white muslin. I 
 was, however, much pleased to see that red 
 maintained its ground against all other colours, 
 because red is the colour of Mr. Jefferson's 
 ********* Tom Paine's nose, and my slippers. 
 
 Let the grumbling smel fungi of this world who 
 cultivate taste among books, cobwebs, and spi- 
 ders, rail at the extravagance of the age : — for 
 my part, I was delighted with the magic of the 
 scene, and as the ladies tripped through the 
 mazes of the dance, sparkling, and glowing, and 
 dazzling, I, like the honest Chinese, thanked 
 them heartily for the jewels and finery with which 
 they loaded themselves merely for the entertain- 
 ment of bye-standers, and blessed my stars that 
 I was a batchelor. 
 
 The gentlemen were considerably numerous, 
 and being, as usual, equipped in their appropri- 
 ate black uniforms, constituted a sable regiment, 
 which contributed not a little to the brilliant 
 gaiety of the ball-room. I must confess I am 
 indebted for this remark to our friend the cock- 
 ney, Mr/Sbidlikens-Flash, or 'Sbidlikens, as he is 
 called for shortness. He is a fellow of infinite 
 verbosity — stands in high favour — with himself, 
 and, like Caleb Quotem, is " up to every thing." 
 I remember when a comfortable plump-looking 
 citizen led into the room a fair damsel, who looked 
 
NEW YORK ASSEMBLY. 289 
 
 for all the world like the personification of a 
 rainbow : 'Sbidlikens observed, that it reminded 
 him of a fable which he had read somewhere, 
 of the marriage of an honest pains-taking snail, 
 who had once walked six feet in an hour for a 
 wager, to a butterfly, whom he used to gallant 
 by the elbow, with the aid of much puffing and 
 exertion. On being called upon to tell where 
 he had come across this story, 'Sbidlikens abso- 
 lutely refused to answer. 
 
 It would be but repeating an old story, to say 
 that the ladies of New York dance well ; — and 
 well they may, since they learn it scientifically, 
 and begin their lessons before they have quitted 
 their swaddling cloaths. The immortal Duport 
 has usurped despotic sway over all the female 
 heads and heels in this city ; — hornbooks, pri- 
 mers, and pianos, are neglected, to attend his 
 positions; and poor Chilton, with his pots and 
 kettles, and chemical crockery, finds him a more 
 potent enemy than the whole collective force of 
 the " North River Society." — 'Sbidlikens insists 
 that this dancing mania will inevitably continue 
 as long as a dancing-master will charge the fa- 
 shionable price ofjive-and-twenty dollars a quar- 
 ter* and all the other accomplishments are so vul- 
 gar ^s to be attainable at " half the money }"rf* 
 but I'put no faith in 'Sbidlikens* candour in this 
 particular. Among his infinitude of endow- 
 ments, he is but a poor proficient in dancing; 
 
 VOL. II, v 
 
290 NEW YORK ASSEMBLY. 
 
 and though he often flounders through a cotillion, 
 yet he never cut a pigeon-wing in his life. 
 
 In my mind there is no position more positive 
 and unexceptionable, than that most Frenchmen, 
 dead or alive, are born dancers. I came pounce 
 upon this discovery at the assembly, and I noted 
 it down in my register of indisputable facts — the 
 public shall know all about it. As I never dance 
 cotillions, holding them to be monstrous distorters 
 of the human frame, and tantamount in their 
 operations to being broken and dislocated on the 
 wheel, I generally take occasion, while they are 
 going on, to make my remarks on the company. 
 In the course of these observations, I was struck 
 with the energy and eloquence of sundry limbs, 
 which seemed to be flourishing about, without 
 appertaining to any body. After much investi- 
 gation and difficulty, I at length traced them to 
 their respective owners, whom I found to be all 
 Frenchmen to a man. Art may have meddled 
 somewhat in these affairs, but nature certainly 
 did more. I have since been considerably em- 
 ployed in calculations on this subject, and by 
 the most accurate computation I have determined 
 that a Frenchman passes at least three- fifths of 
 his time between the heavens and the earth, and 
 partakes eminently of a gossamer or soap bubble. 
 One of these jack-o'-lantern heroes, in taking a 
 figure, which neither Euclid nor Pyihagoras 
 himself could demonstrate, unfortunately wound 
 
Nfe% YORK ASSEMBLE. 291 
 
 himself— I mean his foot-— his better part-*-into a 
 lady's cobweb muslin robe ; but perceiving it 
 at the instant, he set himself a-spinning the other 
 way., like a top ; unravelled his step, without 
 omitting one angle or curve, and extricated him- 
 self without breaking a thread of the lady's 
 dress ! He then sprung up like a sturgeon, 
 crossed his feet four times, and finished this won- 
 derful evolution by quivering his left leg as a cat 
 does her paw when she has accidentally dipped 
 it in water. No man <( of woman born/' who 
 was not a Frenchman, or a mountebank, could 
 have done the like. 
 
 Among the new faces, I remarked a blooming 
 aymph who has*brought a fresh supply of roses 
 from the country to adorn the wreath of beauty, 
 where lilies too much predominate. As I wish 
 well to every sweet face under heaven, I sincerely 
 hope her roses may survive the frosts and dissi- 
 pations of winter, and lose nothing by a compa- 
 rison with the loveliest offerings of the spring. 
 'Sbi^likens, to whom I made similar remarks, 
 assured me they were very just, and very prettily 
 expressed, and that the lady in question was a pro- 
 digious tine piece of Jiesh and blood. Now I 
 could find it in my heart to baste these cockneys 
 like their own roast-beef— -they can make no dis- 
 tinction between a fine woman, and a fine 
 horse. 
 
 I would praise the sylph-like grace with which 
 u2 
 
 
293 NEW YORK ASSEMBLY. 
 
 another young lady acquitted herself In the 
 dance, but that she excels in far more valuable 
 accomplishments. Who praises the rose for its 
 beauty, even though it is beautiful ? 
 
 The company retired at the customary hour to 
 the supper-room, where the tables were laid out 
 with their usual splendour and profusion. My 
 friend 'Sbidlikens, with the native forethought 
 of a cockney, had carefully stowed his pockets 
 with cheese and crackers* that he might not be 
 tempted again to venture his limbs in the crowd 
 of hungry fair ones who throng the supper-room 
 door : his precaution was unnecessary, for the 
 company entered the room with surprizing order 
 and decorum. No gowns were torn — no ladies 
 fainted— no noses bled— nor was there any need 
 of the interference of either managers or peace- 
 officers. 
 
 * Small biscuits are called crackers by the Americans. 
 
A BRUMMAGEM HERO. 293 
 
 . CHAPTER XXXIII. 
 
 Tom Straddle — a Brummagem Hero— -'His Voy- 
 age to America — Arrival at New York— -At- 
 tempts at Notoriety — Stylish Living— A Man 
 of Ton — Profound Dissertations — Straddle's 
 unfortunate End — Plans for defending New 
 York Harbour — The Torpedo — Calamities of 
 War— An Experiment to destroy the English 
 Navy— 'Anecdote of a Chinese — New Plans- 
 Jeremy Cockloft — Archimedes' burning Glasses 
 — Style at Ballston — Citizens' Ladies — A Ca- 
 rolinian Buck— Mode of Living — Squabbles—* 
 Drinking the Waters— r Amusements. 
 
 TOM STRADDLE. 
 
 " Tandem vincitur." 
 
 Tandem conquers ! Link. Fid. 
 
 Some men delight in the study of plants, in the 
 dissection of a leaf, or the contour and com- 
 plexion of a tulip ; others are charmed with 
 the beauties of the feathered race, or the varied 
 hues of the insect tribe. A naturalist will spend 
 hours in the fatiguing pursuit of a butterfly; and 
 a man of the ton will waste whole years in the 
 phase of a fine lady. I feel a respect for their 
 
%91 A BRUMMAGEM HERO. 
 
 avocations, for my own are somewhat similar, 
 I love to open the great volume of human cha- 
 racter.-— To me the examination of a beau is 
 more interesting than that of a daffodil or narcis- 
 sus ; and I feel a thousand times more pleasr.re 
 in catching a new view of human nature, than 
 in kidnapping the most gorgeous butterfly — even 
 an emperor of Morocco himself. 
 
 In my present situation I have ample room for 
 the indulgence of this taste ; for perhaps there is 
 not a house in this city more fertile in subjects 
 for the anatomist of human character, than my 
 cousin Cockloft's. Will Wizard is particularly 
 efficient in adding to the stock of originals which 
 frequent our house, for he is one of the most in- 
 veterate hunters of oddities I ever knew, and his 
 first care on making a new acquaintance, is to 
 gallant him to old Cockloft's, where he never 
 fails to receive the freedom of the house, in a 
 pinch from his gold box. Will has, without ex- 
 ception, the queerest, most eccentric, and inde- 
 scribable set of intimates, that ever man possessed; 
 how he became acquainted with them I cannot 
 conceive, except by supposing there is a secret 
 attraction, or unintelligible sympathy, that un- 
 consciously draws together oddities of every 
 soil. 
 
 Writ's great crony, for some time, was Tom 
 Straddle, to whom he really took a great liking. 
 Straddle had just arrived in an importation of 
 
A BRUMMAGEM HERO. 295 
 
 hardware, fresh from the city of Birmirigham, 
 or rather as the most learned English would call 
 it, Brummagem, so famous for its manufactories 
 of gimblets, penknives, and pepper-boxes, and 
 where they make buttons and beaux enough to 
 inundate our whole country. He was a young 
 man of considerable standing in the manufactory 
 #t Birmingham, sometimes had the honour to 
 hand his master's daughter into a trim-whisky; 
 was the oracle of the tavern he frequented on Sun- 
 days, and could beat all his associates (if you 
 would Jake his word for it) in boxing, beer 
 drinking, jumping over chairs, and imitating 
 cats in a gutter, and opera singers. Straddle 
 was, moreover, a member of a catch club, and 
 was a great hand at ringing bob-majors; he was 
 ef course a complete connoisseur in music, and 
 entitled to assume that character at all perform 
 mances in the art. He was likewise a member 
 of a spouting club, had seen a company of stroll- 
 ing actors perform in a barn, and .had even, like 
 Abel Drugger, " enacted" the part of Major 
 Sturgeon with applause : he was consequently a 
 profound critic* and fully authorized to turn up 
 his nose at any American performances. He had 
 twice partaken of annual dinners given by the 
 head manufacturers of Birmingham, where he had 
 the good fortune to get a taste of turtle and 
 turbot, and a smack of champaigne and bur- 
 gundy, and he had heard a vast deal of the roast 
 
296 HIS VOYAGE TO AMERICA. 
 
 beef of Old England; he was, therefore, epicure 
 sufficient to condemn every dish, and every glass 
 of wine, he had tasted in America, though at the 
 same time he was as voracious an animal as ever 
 crossed the Atlantic. Straddle had been splash- 
 ed half a dozen times by the carriages of nobility, 
 and had once the superlative felicity of being 
 kicked out of doors by the footman of a noble 
 Duke ; he could, therefore, talk of nobility, and 
 despise the untitled plebeians of America. In 
 short, Straddle was one of those dapper, bustling, 
 florid, round, self-important " gemmen/' who 
 bounce upon us, half beau, half button-maker, 
 undertake to give us the true polish of the ban 
 ton, and endeavour to inspire us with a proper 
 and dignified contempt of our native country. 
 
 Straddle was quite in raptures when Uis em- 
 ployers determined to send him to America as an 
 agent. He considered himself as going among 
 a nation of barbarians, where he would be re- 
 ceived as a prodigy ; he anticipated, with a proud 
 satisfaction, the bustle and confusion his arrival 
 would make, the crowd that would throng to 
 gaze at him, as he walked or rode through the 
 streets ; and had little doubt but he should oc- 
 casion as much curiosity as an Indian chief or a 
 Turk in the streets of Birmingham. He had 
 heard of the beauty of our women, and chuckled 
 at the thought of how completely he should 
 eclipse their unpolished beaux, and the number 
 
ARRIVAL AT NEW YORK. 297 
 
 of despairing lovers that would mourn the hour 
 of his arrival. I am even informed by Will 
 Wizard, that he put a good store of beads, spike 
 nails, and looking glasses in his trunk, to win the 
 affections of the fair ones, as thej paddled about 
 in their bark canoes. The reason Will gave for 
 this error of Straddle's, respecting our ladies, was, 
 that he had read in Guthrie's Geography, that 
 the aborigines of America were all savages, and 
 not exactly understanding the word aborigines, 
 lie applied to one of his fellow apprentices, who 
 assured him that it was the Latin word for inha- 
 bitants. Now Straddle knew that the savages 
 were fond of beads, spike nails, and looking- 
 glasses, and therefore, filled his trunk with those 
 articles. 
 
 Wizard used to tell another anecdote of Strad- 
 dle which always put him in a passion ; Will 
 swore that the captain of the ship told him, that 
 when Straddle heard they were off the banks of 
 Newfoundland, he insisted upon going ashore 
 there to gather some good cabbages of which he 
 was excessively fond : Straddle, however, denied 
 all this, and declared it to be a mischievous 
 quiz of Will Wizard, who indeed often made 
 himself merry at his expense. However this 
 may be, certain it is, he kept his tailor and 
 shoe-maker constantly employed, for a month be- 
 fore his departure; equipped himself with a smart 
 crooked stick about eighteen inches long, a pair 
 
298 ATTEMPTS AT NOTORIETY. 
 
 of breeches of most unheard-of length, a little*. 
 short pair of Hoby's white topped boots, that 
 seemed to stand on tip-toe to reach his breeches 
 and bis hat had the true transatlantic declination 
 towards his right ear. The fact was, nor did he 
 make any secret of it, he was determined to " as- 
 tdnteh the natives a few /-" 
 
 Straddle was not a little disappointed on his 
 arrival, to find the Americans were rather more 
 civilized than he had imagined; he was suffered 
 to walk to his lodgings unmolested by a crowd, 
 and even unnoticed by a single individual ; no 
 love letters came pouring in upon him; no ri- 
 vals lay in wait to assassinate him ; his very dress 
 excited no attention, for there were many fools 
 dressed equally ridiculous with himself. This 
 was mortifying indeed to an aspiring youth, who 
 had come out with the idea of astonishing and 
 captivating. He was equally unfortunate in his 
 pretensions to the character of critic, connois-? 
 seur, and boxer; he condemned our whole dra- 
 matic corps, and every thing appertaining to the 
 theatre; but his critical abilities were ridiculed; 
 he found fault with old Cockloft's dinner, not 
 even sparing his wine, and was never invited to 
 the house afterwards; he scoured the streets at 
 night, and was cudgelled by a sturdy watchman ; 
 lie hoaxed an honest mechanic, and was soundly 
 kicked : thus disappointed in all his attempts at 
 notoriety, Straddle hit on the expedient wjiicti 
 
STVXISH LIVING. 299 
 
 was resorted to by the Giblets; he determined to 
 take the town by storm. He accordingly bought 
 horses, and equipages, and forthwith made a 
 furious dash at style in a gig and tandem. 
 
 As Straddle's finances were but limited, it may 
 easily be supposed that his fashionable career 
 infringed a little upon his consignments, which 
 was indeed the case ; for to use a true cockney 
 phrase, Brummagem suffered. But this was a 
 circumstance that made little impression upon 
 Straddle, who was now a lad of spirit, and iads 
 of spirit always despise the sordid cares of keep- 
 ing another man's money; suspecting this circum- 
 stance, I never could witness any of his exhibi- 
 tions of style without some whimsical association 
 of ideas. Did he give an entertainment to a host 
 of guzzling friends, I immediately fancied them 
 gormandizing heartily at the expense of poor 
 Birmingham, and swallowing a consignment of 
 hand-saws and razors. Did 1 behold him dash- 
 ing through Broadway in his gig, I saw him, "in 
 iny mind's eye," driving .tandem on a nest of tea 
 boards; nor could I ever contemplate his cockr 
 ney exhibitions of horsemanship, but my mis- 
 chievous imagination would picture him spurring 
 A, cask of hardware, like the rosy Bacchus be- 
 striding a beer barrel, or the little gentleman who 
 bestraddles the world in the front of Hutch h Vs 
 almanac. 
 
 Straddle was equally successful with tb^ 
 
300 A MAN OF TON. 
 
 lets, as may well be supposed; for though pe- 
 destrian merit may strive in vain to become 
 fashionable in Gotham, yet a candidate in an 
 equipage is always recognized, and like Philip's 
 ass, laden with gold, will gain admittance every 
 where. Mounted in his curricle or his gig, the 
 candidate is like a statue elevated on a high pe- 
 destal, his merits are discernible from afar, and 
 strike the dullest optics. Oh ! Gotham, Gotham ! 
 most enlightened of cities ! how does my heart 
 swell with delight, when I behold your sapient 
 inhabitants lavishing their attention with such 
 wonderful discernment ! 
 
 Thus Straddle became quite a man of ton, and 
 was caressed, and courted, and invited to dinners 
 and balls. Whatever was absurd or ridiculous 
 in him before, was now declared to be the style. 
 He criticised our theatre, and was listened to 
 with reverence. He pronounced our musical en- 
 tertainments barbarous; and the judgment of 
 Apollo himself would not have been more deci- 
 sive, lie abused our dinners; and ihe god of 
 eating, if there be any such deity, seemed to 
 speak through his organs. He became at once 
 a man of taste, for he put his malediction on 
 every thing; and his arguments were conclusive, 
 tor he supported every assertion with a bet. He 
 was likewise pronounced by the learned in the 
 fashionable world, a young man of great research 
 and deep observation; for he had sent home, as 
 
PROFOUND DISSERTATIONS. 301 
 
 natural curiosities, an ear of Indian corn, a 
 pair of moccasins, a belt of wampum, and a four 
 leaved clover. He had taken great pains to en- 
 rich this curious collection with an Indian and 
 a cataract, but without success. In fine the 
 people talked of Straddle and his equipage, and 
 Straddle talked of his horses, until it was im- 
 possible for the most critical observer to pro- 
 nounce whether Straddle or his horses were most 
 admired, or whether Straddle admired himself 
 or his horses most. 
 
 Straddle was now in the zenith of his glory. 
 He swaggered about parlours and drawing 
 rooms with the same unceremonious confidence 
 he used to display in the taverns at Birmingham. 
 He accosted a lady as he would a bar-maid ; and 
 this was pronounced a certain proof that he had 
 been used to better company in Birmingham. 
 He became the great man of all the taverns be- 
 tween New York and Haerlem, and n^ne stood 
 a chance of being accommodated, until Straddle 
 and his horses were perfectly satisfied. He bul- 
 lied the landlords and waiters with the best air 
 in the world, and accosted them with true gen- 
 tlemanly familiarity. He staggered from the 
 dinner table to the play, entered the box like a 
 tempest, and staid long enough to be bored to 
 death, and to bore all those who had the misfor- 
 tune to be near him. From thence he dashed 
 off to a ball, time enough to flounder through a 
 
302 STRADDLES UNFORTUNATE END. 
 
 cotillion, fear half a dozen gowns, commit a. 
 number of other depredations, and make the 
 whole company sensible of his infinite conde- 
 scension in coming amongst them, The people 
 of Gotham thought him a prodigious fine fel- 
 low ; the young bucks cultivated his acquaint- 
 ance with the most persevering assiduity, and his 
 retainers were sometimes complimented with a 
 seat in his curricle, or a ride on one of his fine 
 horses. The belles were delighted with the at- 
 tentions of such a fashionable gentleman, and 
 struck with astonishment at his learned distinc- 
 tions between wrought scissars and those of cast 
 steel, together with his profound dissertations on 
 buttons and horse- flesh. The rich merchants 
 courted his acquaintance because he was an Eng- 
 lishman, and their wives treated him with great 
 deference, because he had come from beyond seas. 
 I cannot help here observing, that your saltwater 
 is a marvellous great sharpener of men's wits, 
 and I intend to recommend it to some of my ac- 
 quaintance in a particular essay, 
 
 Straddle continued his brilliant career for only 
 a short time. "His prosperous journey through 
 the turnpike of fashion, was checked by some of 
 those stumbling blocks in the way of aspiring 
 youth, called creditors, or duns ; a race of people, 
 who, as a celebrated writer observes, cc are hated 
 by gods and men.' 5 Consignments slackened, 
 whispers of distant suspicion floated in the dark, 
 
straddle's unfortunate end. SOS 
 
 and those pests of society, the tailors,, and shoe- 
 makers., rose in rebellion against Straddle. In 
 vain were all his remonstrances ; in vain did he 
 prove to them, that though he had given them 
 no money, yet he had given them more custom, 
 and as many promises as any young man in the 
 city. They were inflexible, and the signal of 
 danger being given, a host of other persecutors 
 pounced upon his back. Straddle saw there was 
 but one way for it ; he determined to do the 
 thing genteelly, to go to smash like a hero, and 
 dashed into the limits in high style, being the 
 fifteenth gentleman I have known to drive tan- 
 dem to the — ne plus ultra — the d — 1. 
 
 Unfortunate Straddle ! may thy fate be a 
 warning to all young gentlemen who come out 
 from Birmingham to astonish the natives! I 
 should never have taken the trouble to delineate 
 * his character, had he not been a genuine cock- 
 ney, and worthy to be the representative of his 
 numerous tribe. Perhaps my simple country- 
 men may hereafter be able to distinguish between 
 the real English gentleman, and individuals of 
 the cast I have heretofore spoken of, as mere 
 mongrels, springing at one bound from con- 
 temptible obscurity at home, to day-light and 
 splendour in this good-natured land. The true 
 born and true bred English gentleman is a cha- 
 racter I hold in great respect; and I love to look 
 back to the period wh«m our forefathers flourish- 
 
301 ENGLISH COCKNEY. 
 
 ed in the same generous soil, and bailed each 
 other as brothers. But the cockney ! when I 
 contemplate him as springing too from the same 
 source, I feel ashamed of the relationship, and 
 am tempted to deny my origin. In the character 
 of Straddle, is traced the complete outline of a 
 true cockney, of English growth, and a descen- 
 dant of that individual facetious character men- 
 tioned by Shakspcare, " who in pure kindness to 
 his horse, buttered his hay" 
 
 PLANS for DEFENDING oun HARBOUR. 
 
 BY WILLIAM WIZARD, ESQ. 
 
 I.ong-fong te-ko buzz tor-pe-do, 
 
 Fudge — i Confucius. 
 
 We'll blow the villains all sky high ; 
 
 But do it with econo my. 
 
 Link. Fid. 
 
 Surely never was a town more suhject to 
 midsummer fancies, and dog-day whim whams, 
 than this most excellent of cities : our notions 
 like our diseases seem all epidemic, and no sooner 
 does a new disorder, or a new freak seize one in- 
 dividual, but it is sure to run through all the 
 community. This is particularly the case when 
 the summer is at the hottest, and every body's 
 hoad is in a vertigo, and his brain in a ferment; 
 
THE TORPEDO. 305 
 
 it is absolutely necessary then, the poor souls 
 should have some bubble to amuse themselves 
 with, or they would certainly run mad. Last 
 year the poplar-worm made its appearance most 
 fortunately for our citizens, and every body was 
 so much in horror of being poisoned, and de- 
 voured, and so busied in making humane experi- 
 ments on cats and dogs, that we got through 
 the summer quite comfortably ; the cats had the 
 worst of it; every raouser of them was shaved, 
 and there was not a whisker to be seen in the 
 whole sisterhood. This summer every body has 
 had full employment in planning fortifications 
 for our harbour. Not a cobler or a tailor in the 
 city but has left his awl and his thimble, become 
 an engineer outright, and aspired most magna- 
 nimously to the building of forts, and destruction 
 of navies \ Heavens ! as my friend Mustapha 
 would say, on what a great scale is every thing 
 in this country ! 
 
 Among the various plans that have been offer- 
 ed, the most conspicuous is one devised and ex- 
 hibited, as I am informed, by that notable con- 
 federacy, the North River Society. Anxious to 
 redeem their reputation from the foul suspicions 
 that have for a long time overclouded it, the 
 aquatic incendiaries have come forward at th£ 
 present alarming juncture, and announced a 
 most potent discovery, which is to guarantee our 
 port from the visits of any foreign marauders. 
 
 vol. lii x 
 
300 NEW PLAN FOR DESTROYING 
 
 The society have, it seems, invented a cunning 
 machine shrewdly y'clep'd a Torpedo, by which 
 the stoutest line-of- battle ship, even a Santissima 
 Trinidada may be caught napping, and decom- 
 posed in a twinkling; a kind of sub-marine 
 powder magazine, to swim under water, like an 
 aquatic mole, or water rat, and destroy the enemy 
 in the moment of unsuspicious security. 
 
 This straw tickled the noses of all our digni- 
 taries wonderfully; for to do our government 
 justice, it has no objection to injuring, and ex- 
 terminating its enemies in any manner, provided 
 the thing can be done economically. 
 
 It was determined the experiment should be 
 tried, and an old brig was purchased (for not 
 more than twice its value) and delivered into 
 the hands of its tormentors, the North River 
 Society, to be tortured, and battered, and anni- 
 hilated, secundum art em. A day was appointed 
 for the occasion, when all the good citizens of the 
 wonder-loving city of Gotham were invited to 
 the blowing up ; like the fat iim-keeper in Ra- 
 belais, who requested all his customers to come 
 on a certain day and see him burst. 
 
 As I have almost as great a veneration as the 
 good Mr. Walter Shandy, for all kinds of ex- 
 periments that are ingeniously ridiculous, I made 
 very particular mention of the one in question at 
 the table of my friend Christopher Cockloft; but 
 it put the honest old gentleman in a violent pas 
 
THE BRITISH NAVV. SOT 
 
 si on. He condemned it in toto, as an attempt to 
 introduce a dastardly, and exterminating mode 
 of warfare. <e Already have we proceeded far 
 enough/' said he, " in the science of destruction ; 
 war is already invested with sufficient horrors 
 and calamities, let us not increase the catalogue ; 
 let us not, by these deadly artifices, provoke a 
 system of insidious and indiscriminate hostility, 
 that shall terminate in laying our cities desolate, 
 and exposing our women, our children, and our 
 infirm, to the sword of pitiless recrimination/ 1 
 Honest old cavalier ! it was evident he did not 
 reason as a true politician ; but he felt as a chris- 
 tian and philanthropist, and that was perhaps 
 just as well. 
 
 It may be readily supposed, that our citizens 
 did not refuse the invitations of the society to 
 the blow up : it was the first naval action ever 
 exhibited in our port; and the good people all 
 crowded to see the British Navy blown up in 
 effigy. The young ladies were delighted with 
 the novelty of the show, and declared that if war 
 could be conducted in this manner, it would be- 
 come a fashionable amusement, and the destruc- 
 tion of a fleet, be as pleasant as a ball or a tea 
 party. The old folk were equally pleased with 
 the spectacle ; because it cost them nothing. 
 Dear souls, how hard was it they should be dis- 
 appointed ! the brig most obstinately refused to 
 be decomposed; the dinners grew coid, and the 
 
 x2 
 
308 NEW PLAN FOR DESTROYING 
 
 puddings were overboiled, throughout the re- 
 nowned city of Gotham ; and its sapient inha- 
 bitants, like the honest Strasburghers, (from 
 whom most of them are doubtless descended), 
 who went out to see the courteous stranger 
 and his nose, all returned home, after having 
 threatened to pull down the flagstaff, by way of 
 taking satisfaction for their disappointment. By 
 the way, there is not an animal in the world more 
 discriminating in its vengeance than a free-born 
 Mob ! 
 
 In the evening I repaired to friend Hogg's, to 
 smoke a sociable cigar; but had scarcely entered 
 the room when I was taken prisoner by my friend 
 Mr. Ichabod Fungus, who I soon saw was at his 
 usual trade of prying into mill-stones. The old 
 gentleman informed me that the brig had ac- 
 tually blown up, after a world of manoeuvring, 
 and had nearly blown up the society with it ; he 
 seemed to entertain strong doubts as to the ob- 
 jects of the society in the invention of these in- 
 fernal machines, hinted a suspicion of their wish- 
 ing to set the river on fire, and that he should 
 not be surprized on waking one of these morn- 
 ings to find the Hudson in a blaze. " Not that 
 I disapprove of the plan," said he, (< provided it 
 has the end in view, which they profess; no, 
 no, an excellent plan of defence : no need of bat- 
 teries, forts, frigates, and gun-boats ; observe, Sir, 
 all that's necessary is, that the ships must come 
 
THE BRITISH NAVY\ 309 
 
 to anchor in a convenient place; watch must be 
 asleep, or so complacent as not to disturb any 
 boats paddling about them ; fair wind and tide ; 
 no moonlight; machines well directed, musn't 
 flash in the pan; bang's the word, and the ves- 
 sel's blown up in a moment !" " Good," said I, 
 " you remind me of a lubberly Chinese who was 
 flogged by an honest captain of my acquaintance, 
 and who, on being advised to retaliate, exclaimed, 
 " Hi yah ! spose two men hold fast him captain, 
 den very mush me bamboo he !" 
 
 The old gentleman grew a little crusty, and 
 insisted that I did not understand-him; all that 
 was requisite to render the effect certain was, 
 that the enemy should enter into the project, or 
 in other words, he agreeable to the measure, so 
 that if the machine did not come to the ship, the 
 ship should go to the machine, by which means 
 he thought the success of the machine would be 
 inevitable, provided it struck fire. <: But do 
 you not think," said I, doubtingly, rf that it 
 would be rather difficult to persuade the enemy 
 into such an agreement? Some people have 
 an invincible antipathy to being blown up." 
 — " Not at all, not at all," replied he, triumph- 
 antly ; " got an excellent notion for that : do with 
 them as we have done with the brig ; buy all the 
 vessels we mean to destroy, and blow 'em up as 
 best suits our convenience. I have thought 
 deeply on that subject, and have calculated to 
 
310 PLA.NS FOR DEFENDING NEW YORK. 
 
 a certainty, that if our funds hold out, we way in 
 this way destroy the whole British navy ; by 
 contract/' 
 
 By this time all the Quidnuncs in the room 
 had gathered round us, each pregnant with some 
 mighty scheme for the salvation of his country. 
 One pathetically lamented that we had no such 
 men among us, as the famous Toujoursdort, and 
 Grossitout, who, when the celebrated captain 
 Tranchemont, made war against the city of Ka- 
 lachabalaba, utterly discomfited the great king 
 BigstafF, and blew up his whole army by sneez- 
 ing. Another imparted a sage idea, which 
 seems to have occupied more heads than one; 
 that is: that the best way of fortifying the har- 
 bour was to ruin it at once; choak the channel 
 with rocks and blocks; strew it with chevaux de 
 frizes and torpedos; and make it like a nur- 
 sery garden, full of men-traps, and spring-guns: 
 no vessel would then have the temerity to enter 
 our harbour; we should not even dare to navi- 
 gate it ourselves. Or it % no cheaper way could 
 be devised, let Governor's Island be raised by 
 levers and pulleys, floated v. ith empty casks, &c. 
 towed down to the Narrows, and dropped plump 
 in the very mouth of the harbour ! ' f But/' said 
 I, fC would not the prosecution of these whim- 
 whams be rather expensive and dilatory?" 
 •' Pshaw !*' cried the other, iC what's a million of 
 money to an experiment ? The true spirit of our 
 
MtJSTAPHA's PROPOSITION. 511 
 
 economy requires that we should spare no 
 expense in discovering the cheapest mode of de- 
 fending ourselves ; and then, if all these modes 
 should fail, why you know the worst we have to 
 do is, to return to the old-fashioned hum-drum 
 mode of forts and baAerics. " By which time/' 
 cried I, " the arrival of the enemy may have 
 rendered their erection superfluous." 
 
 A shrewd old gentleman who stood by listening 
 with a mischievously equivocal look, observed, 
 that the most effectual mode of repulsing a 
 fleet from our ports would be to administer them 
 a proclamation from time to time, till it operated. 
 
 Unwilling to leave the company without de- 
 monstrating my patriotism and ingenuity, I com- 
 municated a plan of defence, which in truth was 
 suggested long since by that infallible oracle 
 Mustapha, who had as clear a head for cobweb- 
 weaving, as ever dignified the shoulders of a pro- 
 jector. He thought the most effectual mode 
 would be, to assemble all the slangivhangers, great 
 and small, from all parts of the state, and mar- 
 shal them at the battery, where they should be 
 exposed, point blank, to the enemy, and form a 
 tremendous body of scolding infantry, similar to 
 the poissardes, or doughty champions, of Billings- 
 gate. They should be exhorted to fire away, 
 without pity or remorse, in sheets, half sheets, 
 columns, hand bills, or squibs; great cannon, 
 jittle cannon, pica, German text, stereotype, and 
 
312 mustafha's proposition. 
 
 to run their enemies through and through with 
 sharp-pointed italics. They should have orders 
 to shew no quarter ; to blaze away, in their 
 loudest epithets, " Miscreants !" " Murderers I" 
 "Barbarians f cc Pirates /" " Bobbers !" " Black- 
 guards /" and to do away all fear of conse- 
 quences they should be guaranteed from att 
 danger of pillory, kicking, cuffing, nose pulling, 
 whipping post, or prosecution for libels. If, con- 
 tinued Mustapha, you wish men to fight well 
 and valiantly, they must be allowed those wea- 
 pons they have been accustomed to handle. Your 
 countrymen are notoriously adroit in the ma- 
 nagement of the tongue and the peri, and con- 
 duct all their battles by speeches or newspapers. 
 Adopt, therefore, the plan I have pointed out, 
 and rely upon it, that let any fleet, however 
 large, be but once assailed by this battery of 
 slangwhangers, and if they have not entirely lost 
 the sense of hearing, or a regard for their own 
 characters and feelings, they will, at the very first 
 fire, slip their cables and retreat with as much 
 precipitation as if they had unwarily entered into 
 the atmosphere of the Bohan Upas. In this man- 
 ner may your wars be conducted with proper 
 economy; and it will cost no more to drive oft' 
 a fleet than to write up a party or write down 
 a bashaw of three tails. 
 
 The sly old gentleman, I have before-men- 
 tioned, was highly delighted with this plan, and 
 
JEREMY COCKLOFT. 313 
 
 proposed, as an improvement, that mortars 
 should be placed on the battery, which instead 
 of throwing shells and such trifles, might be 
 charged with newspapers, Tammany addresses, 
 &c. by way of red-hot shot, which would un- 
 doubtedly be very potent in blowing up any 
 powder magazine they might chance to come in 
 contact with. He concluded by informing the 
 company, that in the course of a few evenings 
 he would have the honour to present them with 
 a scheme for loading certain vessels with news- 
 papers, resolutions of numerous and respectable 
 meetings, and other combustibles, with which ves- 
 sels were to be blown directly in the midst of the 
 enemy by the bellows of the slangwhangers, and 
 he was much mistaken, if they would not be more 
 fatal than fire ships, bomb ketches, gun boats, or 
 even torpedos. 
 
 These are but two or three specimens of the 
 nature and efficacy of the innumerable plans with 
 which this city abounds. Every body seems 
 charged to the muzzle with gunpowder; every 
 eye flashes fire-works and torpedos, and every 
 corner is occupied by knots of inflammatory pro- 
 jectors, not one of whom but has some prcpos*- 
 terous mode of destruction, which he has proved 
 to be infallible by a previous experiment in a 
 tub of water! 
 
 Even Jeremy Cockloft has caught t! e infec- 
 tion, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants of 
 
314 ARCHIMEDES* BURNING GLASSES. 
 
 Cockloft Hall, whither he retired to make his 
 experiments undisturbed. At one time all the 
 mirrors in the house were unhung ; their collect- 
 ed rajs thrown into the hot-house, to try Archi- 
 medes' plan of burning-glasses ; and the honest 
 old gardener was almost knocked down, by what 
 he mistook for a stroke of the sun, but which 
 turned out to be nothing more than a sudden at- 
 tack of one of these tremendous jack o' lanterns. 
 It became dangerous to walk through the court- 
 yard for fear of an explosion : and the whole 
 family was thrown into absolute distress and con- 
 sternation, by a letter from the old house-keeper 
 to Mrs. Cockloft, informing her of his having 
 blown up a favourite Chinese gander, which I 
 had brought from Canton, as he was sailing, ma- 
 jestically, in the duck pond. 
 
 " In the multitude of counsellors there is 
 safety;" if so, the defenceless city of Gotham has 
 nothing to apprehend ; but much do I fear that 
 so many excellent and infallible projects will be 
 presented, that we shall be at a loss which to 
 adopt, and the peaceable inhabitants fare like a 
 famous projector of my acquaintance, whose 
 house was unfortunately plundered while he was 
 contriving a patent lock to secure the door. 
 
STYLE AT BALLSTON. 
 
 3U> 
 
 STYLE AT BALLSTON. 
 
 BY WILLIAM WIZARD, Esq. 
 
 Notwithstanding Evergreen has never been 
 abroad,, nor had his understanding* enlightened, 
 or his views enlarged by that marvellous shar- 
 pener of the wits, a salt-water voyage; yet he is 
 tolerably shrewd and correct in the limited 
 sphere of his observations ; and now and then 
 astounds me with a right pithy remark, which 
 would do no discredit even to a man who had 
 made the grand tour. 
 
 In several late conversations at Cockloft Hall, 
 he has amused us exceedingly by detailing sundry 
 particulars concerning that notorious slaughter- 
 house of time, Ballston springs, where he spent 
 a considerable part of the last summer. The 
 following is a summary of his observations : 
 
 cc Pleasure has passed through a variety of sig- 
 nifications at Ballston : it originally meant no- 
 thing more than a relief from pain and sickness; 
 and the patient who had journeyed many a 
 weary mile to the springs, with a heavy heart and 
 emaciated form, called it pleasure when he threw 
 by his crutches, and danced away from them 
 with renovated spirits, and limbs jocund with 
 vigour. In process of time, pleasure underwent 
 
316 STYLE AT BALLSTON. 
 
 a refinement, and appeared in the likeness of a 
 sober, unceremonious country dance, to the flute 
 of an amateur, or the three-stringed riddle of an 
 itinerant country musician. Still everything be- 
 spoke that happy holiday which the spirits ever 
 enjoy, when emancipated from the shackles 
 of formality, ceremony, and modern politeness : 
 things went on cheerily, and Ballston was pro- 
 nounced a charming, hum-drum, careless place 
 of resort, where every one was at his ease, and 
 might follow, unmolested, the bent of his humour, 
 ■provided his wife was not there ; when lo ! all 
 of a sudden Style made its baneful appearance, in 
 the semblance of a gig and tandem, a pair of lea- 
 ther breeches, a liveried footman, and a cock- 
 ney ! Since that fatal era pleasure has taken an 
 entire new signification, and at present means 
 nothing but style. 
 
 The worthy, fashionable, dashing, good-for- 
 nothing people of every state, who had rather 
 suffer the martyrdom of a crowd, than endure 
 the monotony of their own houses, and the stupid 
 company of their own thoughts, flock to the 
 springs, not to enjoy the pleasures of society, or 
 benefit by the qualities of the water, but to ex- 
 hibit their equipages and their wardrobes, and 
 to excite the admiration, or what is much more 
 satisfactory, the envy of their fashionable com- 
 petitors. This of course awakens a spirit of 
 noble emulation between the eastern, middle^ 
 
CITIZENS* LADIES. 317 
 
 and southern states, and every lady hereupon 
 finding herself charged in a manner with the 
 whole weight of her country's dignity and style, 
 dresses, and dashes, and sparkles without mercy, 
 at her competitors from other parts of the union. 
 This kind of rivalship naturally requires a vast 
 deal of preparation, and prodigious quantities of 
 supplies. A soher citizen's wife will break half 
 a dozen milleners' shops, and sometimes starve 
 her family a whole season, to enable herself to 
 make the spring campaign in style. She repairs 
 to the seat of war with a mighty force of trunks 
 and baud-boxes, like so many ammunition chests, 
 tilled with caps, hats, gowns, ribbons, shawls, 
 and all the various artillery of fashionable war- 
 fare. The lady of a southern planter will lay 
 out the whole annual produce of a rice- planta- 
 tion in silver and gold muslins, lace veils, and 
 new liveries ; carry a hogshead of tobacco on 
 her head, and trail a bale of sea-island cotton at 
 her heels ; while a lady of Boston or Salem will 
 wrap herself up in the nett proceeds of a cargo 
 of whale-oil, and tie on her bat with a quintal 
 of codfish. 
 
 The planters' ladies, however, have generally 
 the advantage in this contest; for, as it is an in- 
 contestable fact, that whoever comes from the 
 East or West Indies, or Georgia, or the Ca- 
 rolinaS) or in fact any warm climate, is im- 
 incniely rich, it cannot be expected that a simple 
 
318 A CAROLINIAN BUCK. 
 
 cit of the north can cope with them in style, 
 The planter, therefore, who drives four horses 
 abroad, and a thousand negroes at home, and 
 who flourishes up to the springs, followed by half 
 a score of black-a-moors in gorgeous liveries, is 
 unquestionably superior to the northern mer- 
 chant, who plods on in a carriage and pair, 
 which being nothing more than is quite neces- 
 sary, has no claim whatever to style. He, how- 
 ever, has his consolation in feeling superior to 
 the honest cit, who dashes about in a simple gig. 
 He in return sneers at the country squire, who 
 jogs along with his scrubby, long-eared poney 
 and saddle bags ; and the squire, by way of taking 
 satisfaction, would make no scruple to run over 
 the unobtrusive pedestrian, were it not that the 
 last, being the most independent of the whole, 
 might chance to break his head by way of 
 retort. 
 
 The great misfortune is, that this style is sup- 
 ported at such an expense as sometimes to en- 
 croach on the rights and privileges of the pocket, 
 and occasion very awkward embarrassments to the 
 tyro of fashion. Among a number of instances, 
 Evergreen mentions the fate of a dashing blade, 
 from the south, who made his entre with a tandem 
 and two outriders, by the aid of which he attract^ 
 ed the attention of all the ladies, and caused a 
 coolness between several young couple, who, it 
 was thought, before his arrival, had a consider- 
 
MODE OF LIVING AT UALLSTON. 319 
 
 able kindness for each other. In the course of a 
 fortnight his tandem disappeared ! The class of 
 good folk who seem to have nothing to do in this 
 world, but to pry into other people's affairs, began 
 to stare ! In a little time longer an outrider was 
 missing; this increased the alarm, and it was 
 consequently whispered that he had eaten the 
 horses, and drank the negro! — (N.B. southern 
 gentlemen are apt to do this on an emergency)—-* 
 serious apprehensions were entertained about the 
 fate of the remaining servant, which were soon 
 verified by hisactually vanishing; and in^onelittle 
 month" the dashing Carolinian modestly took his 
 departure in the stage coach! universally regret- 
 ted by the friends who had generously released 
 him from his cumberous load of style. 
 
 Evergreen, in the course of his detail, gave very 
 melancholy accounts of an alarming famine which 
 raged with great violence at the springs. Whe- 
 ther this was owing to the incredible appetites of 
 the company, or the scarcity which prevailed at 
 the inns, he did not seem inclined to say; but he 
 declares, that he was for several days iff im- 
 minent danger of starvation, owing to his beinp* 
 a little dilatory in his attendance at the dinner- 
 table. He relates a number of " moving acci- 
 dents," which befel many of the polite company, 
 in their zeal to get a good seat at dinner; on 
 which occasion, a kind of scrub-race always took 
 place, wherein a vast deal of jockeying and unfair 
 
820 SQUABBLES AT THE BOARDING HOUSE. 
 
 play was shewn, and a variety of squabbles, and 
 unseemly altercations occurred. But. w hen ar- 
 rived at the scene of action, it was truly an awful 
 sight to behold the confusion, and to hear the 
 tumultuous uproar of voices crying- out, some for 
 one thing, and some for another, to the tuneful 
 accompaniment of knives and forks, rattling with 
 all the energy of hungry impatience. The feast of 
 the Centaurs and the Lapithas was nothing when 
 compared with a dinner at the Great House. 
 At one time, an old gentleman, whose natural 
 irascibility was a little sharpened by the gout, 
 had scalded his throat, by gobbling down a bowl 
 of hot soup, in a vast hurry, in order to secure- 
 the first fruits of a roasted partridge before it was 
 snapped up by some hungry rival ; when, just as 
 he was whetting his knife and fork, preparatory 
 for a descent on the promised land, he had the 
 mortification to see it transferred, bodily, to the 
 plate of a squeamish little damsel, who was tak- 
 ing the waters for debility and loss of appe- 
 tite. This was too much for the patience of old 
 crusty; he lunged his fork into the partridge, 
 whipt it into his dish, and cutting oif a wing 
 of it ; " there Miss, there's more than you can eat. 
 Oons ! whaf should such a littlechalky-faced pup- 
 pet asyoudo w ith a whole partridge !•■' At another 
 time, a mighty sweet disposed old dowager, who 
 loomed most magnificently at the table, had a 
 sauce boat launched upon the capacious lap of a 
 
DRINKING THE WATERS. 321 
 
 silver-sprigged muslin gown, by the manoeuvring 
 of a little politic Frenchman, who was dexterously 
 attempting to make fc a lodgment under the 
 covered way of a chicken pie; human nature 
 could not bear it ! the lady bounced round, and 
 with one box on the ear, drove the luckless wight 
 to utter annihilation. 
 
 But these little cross accidents are amply com- 
 pensated by the great variety of amusements which 
 abound at this charming resort of beauty and 
 fashion. In the morning, the company, each 
 like a jolly bacchanalian with glass in hand, 
 sally forth to the spring, where the gentlemen 
 who wish to make themselves agreeable, have 
 an opportunity of dipping themselves into the 
 good opinion of the ladies: and it is truly delect- 
 able to see with what grace and adroitness they 
 perform this ingratiating feat. Anthony says, 
 that it is peculiarly amazing to behold the quan- 
 tity of water the ladies drink on this occasion, for 
 the purpose of getting an appetite for breakfast. 
 He assures me he has been present, when a 
 young lady of unparalleled delicacy, tossed off in 
 the* space of a minute or two, one and tKcnty 
 tumblers, and a wine glass full ! on my asking 
 Anthony whether the solicitude of the byo- 
 standers was not greatly awakened, as to what 
 might be the effects of this debauch, he replied 
 that the ladies at Ballston had become such great 
 sticklers for the doctrine of evaporation, that no 
 
 VOL. II. Y 
 
322 AMUSEMENTS AT BALLSTON SPRINGS. 
 
 gentleman ever ventured to remonstrate against 
 this excessive drinking, for fear of bringing his 
 philosophy into contempt. The most notorious 
 water-drinkers, in particular, were continually 
 holding forth on the surprizing aptitude- with 
 which the Ballston waters evaporated; and se- 
 veral gentlemen, who had the hardihood to ques- 
 tion this female philosophy, were held in high 
 displeasure. 
 
 After breakfast, every one chooses his amuse- 
 ment; some take a ride into the pine woods, and 
 enjoy the varied and romantic scenery of burnt 
 trees, post and rail fences, pine flats, potatoe 
 patches, and log huts : others scramble up the 
 surrounding sand lulls, that look like the abodes 
 of a gigantic race of ants, take a peep at other 
 sand hills beyond them, and then come down 
 again: others who are romantic (and sundry 
 young ladies insist upon being so, whenever they 
 visit the springs, or go any where into the 
 country), stroll along the borders of a little 
 swampy brook that drags itself aleng like am. 
 Alexandrine, and that so lazily, as not to make 
 a single murmur; watching the little tadpoles,, as 
 they frolic right flippantly in the muddy stream, 
 and listening to the inspiring melody of the har- 
 monious frogs that croak upon its borders. Some 
 play at billiards; some play the fiddle ; and 
 some play the fool! the latter being the most 
 prevalent amusement at Balhton. 
 
AMUSEMENTS AT BALLSTON SPRINGS. 323 
 
 These, together with abundance of dancing, 
 and a prodigious deal of sleeping of afternoons, 
 make up the variety of pleasures at the springs — 
 a delicious life of alternate lassitude and fatigue, 
 of laborious dissipation, and listless idleness, of 4 
 sleepless nights, and days spent in that dozing 
 insensibility which ever succeeds them. Now 
 and then, indeed, the influenza, the fever And ague, 
 or some such pale-faced intruder may happen to 
 throw a momentary damp on the general felicity; 
 but on the whole, Evergreen declares that Ball- 
 ston wants only six things; to wit, good air, 
 good wine* good living, good beds, good com- 
 pany, and good humour, to be the most enchant- 
 ing place in the world ! except Botany Bay, 
 Musquito Cove; dismal swamp, and the black 
 hole at Calcutta ! 
 
 2 
 
324 WINTER AT NEW YORK. 
 
 chap, xxxiv. 
 
 Winter at JVho York — Stealing Hats, a fashion- 
 able Larceny — Hermaphrodite Dress — Fine 
 Figures — Slender Waists — An American 
 Blood — Tea, a Poem— 'Letter to Asem Hacchem 
 — Pacific Government — Logocracy — Slang- 
 whangers — Tom Paine — American Abuse — 
 Congress — Windy Nation — Red Breeches — 
 American Resentment. 
 
 WINTER AT NEW YORK. 
 
 By ANTHONY EVERGREEN, Gent, i 
 
 December 3 1st, I8O7. 
 
 Nunc est bibendum, nunc pede libero 
 
 Pulsanda tellus. Hor, 
 
 Now is the tyme for wine, and myrtheful sportes, 
 For daunce and song, and dispones of syche so rtes. 
 
 Link. Fid. 
 
 The winter campaign has opened. Fashion 
 has summoned her numerous legions at the sound 
 of trumpet, tambourine, and drum, and all the 
 harmonious minstrelsy of the orchestra, to hasten 
 from the dull, silent, and insipid glades, and 
 
WINTER AT NEW YORK. 325 
 
 groves, where they have vegetated during the 
 summer-, recovering from the last winter's cam- 
 paign. Our fair ones have hurried to town, 
 eager to pay their devotions to this tutelary deity, 
 and to make an offering at her shrine of the few 
 pale and transient roses they gathered in their 
 healthful retreat. The fidler rosins his how, the 
 card table devotee is shuffling her pack, the young 
 ladies are industriously spangling their muslins, 
 and the tea-party heroes are airing their chapeaux 
 bras, and peas-blossom breeches, to prepare for 
 figuring in the gay circle of smiles, and graces, 
 and beauty. Now the fine lady forgets her 
 country friend in the hurry of fashionable engage- 
 ments, or receives the simple intruder who has 
 foolishly accepted her thousand pressing invita- 
 tions, with such politeness, that the poor soul deter- 
 mines never to come again. Now the gay buck, 
 who erst figured at Ballston, and quaffed the pure 
 spring, exchanges the sparkling water for still 
 more sparkling champaign, and deserts the nymph 
 of the fountain, to enlist under the standard of 
 jolly Bacchus. In short, now is the important 
 time of the year, in which to harangue the bon ton 
 reader, and like some ancient hero in front of 
 the battle, to " spirit him up to deeds of noble 
 daring, or still more noble suffering/' in the ranks 
 of fashionable warfare. 
 
 Such, indeed, has been my intention ; but the 
 number of cases which have lately come before 
 
326 STEALING HATS 
 
 me, and the variety of complaints I have received 
 from a crowd of honest and well meaning corre- 
 spondents, call for more immediate attention. A 
 host of appeals, petitions, and letters of advice 
 are now before me ; and I believe the shortest 
 way to satisfy my petitioners, memorialists, and 
 advisers, will be to publish their letters, as I sus- 
 pect the object of most of them is merely to get 
 into print. 
 
 To ANTHONY EVERGREEN, Gent. 
 
 Sir, 
 As you appear to have taken to yourself the 
 trouble of meddling in the concerns of the Beau 
 Monde, I take the liberty of appealing to you on 
 a subject which, though considered merely as a 
 very good joke, has occasioned me great vexation 
 and expense. You must know I pride myself on 
 being very useful to the ladies ; that is, T take 
 boxes for them at the theatre ; go shopping with 
 them ; supply them with bouquets, and furnish 
 them with novels from the circulating library. 
 In consequence of these attentions, I am become 
 a great favourite, and there is seldom a party 
 going on in the city, without my having an in- 
 vitation. The grievance I have to complain of, 
 is the exchange of hats which takes place on these 
 occasions; for, to speak my mind freely, there 
 are certain young gentlemen, who seem to con- 
 sider fashionable parties as mere places to barter 
 
A FASHIONABLE LARCENT. 327 
 
 old clothes ; and I am informed that a number 
 of them manage, by this great system of exchange, 
 to keep their crowns decently covered, without 
 their hatter snffeiHng in the least by it. 
 
 It was but lately that I went to a private ball 
 with a new hat; and on returning, in. the latter part 
 of the evening, and asking for it, the scoundrel of 
 a servant, with a broad grin informed me, that the 
 new fats had been dealt out half an hour ago, 
 and they were then on the third quality ; and I 
 was in the end obliged to borrow a young lady's 
 beaver, rather than go home with any of the 
 ragged remnants that were left. 
 
 Now I would wish to know, if there is any 
 possibility of having these offenders punished by 
 law, and whether it would not be advisable for 
 ladies to mention in their cards of invitation, as 
 a postcript, c< stealing hats and shawls positively 
 prohibited." At any rate, I would thank you, 
 Mr. Evergreen, to discountenance the thing to- 
 tally, by publishing in your paper, that stealing 
 a hat is no joke. 
 
 Your humble servant, 
 
 Walter Withers. 
 
 My correspondent is informed that the police 
 have determined to take this matter into consi- 
 deration, and have set apart Saturday mornings 
 for the cognizance of fashionable larcenies. 
 
328 HERMAPHRODITE DRESS. 
 
 Mr. Evergreen, 
 Sir, 
 Do you think a married woman may lawfully 
 put her husband right in a story, before strangers, 
 when she knows him to be in the wrong ; and 
 can any thing authorize a wife in the exclama- 
 tion of, " lord, my dear, how can you say so !" 
 
 Margaret Timson. 
 
 Dear Anthony, 
 Going down Broadway this morning, in a great 
 hurry, I ran full against an object, which at first 
 put me to a prodigious non plus. Observing it 
 to be dressed in a man's hat, a cloth overcoat, 
 and spatter-dashes, I framed my apology accord- 
 ingly, exclaiming cc my dear Sir, I ask ten thou- 
 sand pardons, I assure you Sir, it was entirely 
 accidental ; pray excuse me Sir/' &c. At every 
 one of these excuses, the thing answered me with 
 a downright laugh ; at which I was not a little 
 surprized until, on resorting to my pocket glass 
 I discovered that it was no other than my 
 old acquaintance Clarinda Trollop : I never was 
 more chagrined in my life; for being an old ba- 
 chelor, I like to appear as young as possible, and 
 am always boasting of the goodness of my eyes. 
 I beg of you, Mr. Evergreen, if you have any 
 feeling for your cotemporaries, to discourage this 
 hermaphrodite mode of dress; for really, if the 
 
. FINE FIGURES. 329 
 
 fashion take, we poor bachelors will be utterly 
 at a loss to distinguish a woman from a man. 
 Pray let me know your opinion, Sir, whether a 
 lady who wears a man's hat and spatter-dashes 
 before marriage, may not be apt to usurp some 
 other article of his dress afterwards. 
 Your humble servant, 
 
 Roderick. WoRRr. 
 
 Dear Mr. Evergreen, 
 The other night, at Richard the Third, I sat 
 behind three gentlemen, who talked very loud 
 on the subject of Richard's wooing Lady Anne 
 directly in the face of all his crimes- against that 
 lady. One of them declared such an unnatural 
 scene would be hooted at in China. Pray Sir, 
 was that Mr, Wizard ? 
 
 Selina Badger. 
 
 P. S. the gentleman I allude to, had a pocket 
 glass, and wore his hair fastened behind by a tor- 
 toise shell comb, with two teeth wanting. 
 
 * Mr. Evergreen, 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Being a little curious in the affairs of the 
 
 toilette, I was much interested by the sage Mus- 
 
 tapha's remarks in your last number, concerning 
 
 the art of manufacturing a modern line lady. I 
 
330 FINE FIGURES. 
 
 would have you caution your fair readers, how- 
 ever, to be very careful in the management of 
 their machinery, as a deplorable accident hap- 
 pened, last assembly, in Consequence of the archi- 
 tecture of a lady's figure not being sufficiently 
 strong. In the middle of one of the cotillions, 
 the company was suddenly alarmed by a tre- 
 mendous crash at the lower end of the room, and 
 on crowding to the place, discovered that it was 
 a fine figure which had unfortunately broken 
 down, from too great exertion in a pigeon-wing. 
 By great good luck I secured the corset, which 
 I carried home in triumph, and the next morning 
 had it publicly dissected, and a lecture read on 
 it at Surgeon's Hall. I have since commenced 
 a dissertation on the subject, in which I shall 
 treat of the superiority of those figures manu- 
 factured by steel, stay-tape, and whalebone, to 
 those formed by Dame Nature. I shall show 
 clearly that the Venus de Medicis has no pre- 
 tension to beauty of form, as she never wore 
 stays, and her waist is in exact proportion to the 
 rest of her body. I shall iuquire into the mys- 
 teries of compression, and how tight a figure can 
 be laced without danger of fainting ; and whe- 
 ther it would not be advisable for a lady when 
 dressing for a ball, to be attended by the family 
 physician, as culprits are, when tortured on the 
 racfc to know how much more nature will 
 
SLENDER WAISTS. * 331 
 
 endure. I shall prove that ladies have discover- 
 ed the secret of that notorious juggler who of- 
 fered to squeeze himself into a quart bottle, and 
 I shall demonstrate, to the satisfaction of every 
 fashionable reader, that there is a degree of 
 heroism in purchasing a preposterously slender 
 waist at the expense of an old age of decrepitude 
 and rheumatics. This dissertation shall be pub- 
 lished as soon as finished, and distributed gratis 
 among boarding-school madams, and all worthy 
 matrons who are ambitious that their daughters 
 should sit straight, move like clock-work, and 
 " do credit to their bringing up;" in the mean 
 time I have hung^ up the skeleton of the corset 
 in the museum, beside a dissected weasel and a 
 stuffed alligator, where it may be inspected by 
 all those naturalists who are fond of studying tte- 
 " human form divine. " 
 
 Your's, &c. 
 
 JyLIAN CoGNOUS. 
 
 P. S. By accurate calculation I find it~ is 
 dangerous for a fine figure, when full-dressed, to 
 pronounce a word of more than three syllables. 
 Fine figure, if in love, may indulge in a gentle 
 sigh; but a sob is hazardous. Fine figure may 
 smile with safety, but must never risk a loud 
 laugh. Figure must never play the part of a 
 confidante; as at a tea party, some five evenings 
 since, a young lady, whose unparalleled imped- 
 
332 , AN AMERICAN BLOOD. 
 
 $ ability of waist was the envy of the drawing- 
 room', burst with an important secret, and had 
 three ribs (of her corset) fractured on the spot. 
 
 Mr. Evergreen, 
 
 Sir, 
 I am one of those industrious gemmen, who 
 labour hard to obtain currency in the fashionable 
 world. I have went to great expense in little boots, 
 short vests, and long breeches; my coat is regu- 
 larly imported per stage from Philadelphia, duly 
 insured against all risks, and my boots are smug- 
 gled from Bond-street. I have lounged in Broad- 
 way, with one of the most crooked walking sticks 
 I could procure, and have sported a pair of sal- 
 mon-coloured small-cloaths and flame-coloured 
 stockings, at every concert and ball to which 
 I could purchase admission. Being off eared I 
 might possibly appear to less advantage as a pe- 
 destrian, in consequence of my being rather short, 
 and a little bandy, I have lately hired a tall horse 
 with cropped ears, and a cocked tail, on which 
 I have joined the cavalcade of pretty gemrnen, 
 who exhibit bright stirrups every fine morning 
 in Broadway, and take a canter of two miles per 
 day at the rate of 300 dollars per annum. But, 
 Sir, all this expense has been laid out in vain, for 
 I can scarcely ^et a partner at an assembly, or an 
 invitation to a tea party. Pray, Sir, inform me 
 
TEA : A POEM. 333 
 
 what more I can do to acquire admissson into the 
 true stylish circles, and whether it would not be 
 advisable to charter a curricle for a month, and 
 have my cypher put on it, as is done by certain 
 dashers of my acquaintance. 
 
 Your's to serve, 
 
 Malvolio Dubster. 
 
 
 TEA: A POEM. 
 
 BY PINDAR COCKLOFT, ESQ., 
 
 And earnestly recommended to the attention of all maidens of 
 a certain age. 
 
 Old Time, my dear girls, is a knave, who in truth 
 From the fairest of beauties will pilfer their youth - f 
 Who by constant attention, and wily deceit 
 For ever is coaxing some graqe to retreat ; 
 And, like crafty seducer, with subtle approach, 
 The further indulged, will still further encroach. 
 Since this <c thief of the world" has made off with your bloom 
 And left you some score of stale years in its room, 
 Has deprived you of all those gay dreams that would dance 
 In your brains at fifteen, and your bosoms entrance, 
 And has forced you almost to renounce, in despair, 
 The hope of a husband's affection and care, 
 Since such is the case, (and a case rather hard !) 
 Permit one, who holds you in special regard, 
 To furnish such hints in your loveless estate 
 As may shelter your names from detraction and hate. 
 
334 TEA : A POEM, 
 
 Too often onr maidens grown aged, I ween, 
 
 Indulge to excess in the workings of spleen ; 
 
 And at times, when annoyed by the slights of mankind, 
 
 Work off their resentment by speaking their mind : 
 
 Assemble together in snuff-taking clan, 
 
 And hold round the tea-urn a solemn divan, 
 
 A convention of tattling ; a tea party hight, 
 
 Which, like meeting of witches, is brewed up at night r 
 
 Where each matron arrives, fraught with tales of surprise, 
 
 With knowing suspicion and doubtful surmise, 
 
 Like the broomstick whirl'd hags that appear in Macbeth, 
 
 Each bearing some relic of venom or death, 
 
 " To stir up the toil, and to double the trouble, 
 
 That fire may burn, and that cauldron may bubble." 
 
 When the party commences all starch'd and all glum, 
 They talk of the weather, their corns, or sit mum : 
 They will tell you of cambric, of ribbons, of lace, 
 How cheap they were sold ; and will name you the place. 
 They discourse of their colds, and they hem, and they cough , 
 And complain of their servants to pass the time off; 
 Or list to the tale of some doating mamma 
 How her ten weeks old baby, will laugh and say taa I 
 
 But tea, that enhVner of wit and of soul, 
 More loquacious by far than the draughts of the bowl, 
 Soon unloosens the tongue, and enlivens the mind,. 
 And enlightens their eyes to the faults of mankind. 
 It brings on the tapis their neighbours' defects. 
 The faults of their friends, or their wilful neglects ,- 
 Reminds them of many a good-natured tale, 
 About those who are stylish, or those who are frail ; 
 Till the sweet tempered dames are converted by tea, 
 Into character manglers — Gunaikophagi* 
 
 * I was very anxious that our friend Pindar, should give up 
 &is learned word, as being rather above the comprehension of 
 
tea: a poem. SSI 
 
 Tvvas thus with the Pythia who served at the fount, 
 That flowed near the far-famed Parnassian mount : 
 While the steam she inhaled of the sulphuric spring, 
 Her vision expanded, her fancy took wing ; 
 By its aid she pronounced the oracular will, 
 That Apollo commanded his sons to fulfil. 
 But alas ! the sad vestal performing the rite, 
 Appeared like a demon. — terrific to sight, 
 E'en the priests of Apollo averted their eyes, 
 And the temple of Delphi resounded her cries. 
 
 But quitting the nymph of the tripod of yore, 
 We return to the dames of the tea-pot once more. 
 In harmless chit-chat an acquaintance they roast, 
 And serve up a friend, as they serve up a toast. 
 Some gentle faux pas, or some female mistake, 
 Is like sweetmeats delicious, or relished as cake 5 
 A bit of broad scandal is like a dry crust, 
 It would stick in the throat, so they butter it first 
 With a little affected good- nature, and cry 
 ft No body regrets the thing deeper than I." 
 Our young ladies nibble a good name in play, 
 As for pastime they nibble a biscuit away : 
 While with shrugs and surmises, the toothless old dame, 
 As she mumbles a crust she will mumble a name. 
 And as the fell sisters astonished the Scot, 
 In predicting of Banquo's descendants the lot, 
 Making shadows of kings* amid flashes of light, 
 To appear in array, and to frown in his sight, 
 So they conjure up spectres all hideous in hue, 
 Which, as shades of their neighbours, are pass'u in review. 
 
 his fair readers ; but die old gentleman, according to custom, 
 swore it was the finest point in his whole pcem j so I knew 
 it was in vain to say any move about it, 
 
 W. Wizard, 
 
336 tea : A POEM. 
 
 The wives of our cits of inferior degree, 
 Will soak up repute in a little bohea ; 
 -The potion is vulgar, and vulgar the slang 
 With which on their neighbours' defects, they harangue, 
 But the scandal improves (a refinement in wrong) 
 As our matrons are richer, and rise to souchong. 
 With hyson, a beverage that's still more refin'd, 
 Our ladies of fashion enliven their mind, 
 And by nods, inuendoes, and hints, and what not, 
 Reputations, and tea, send together to pot. 
 While madam, in cambrics and laces arrayed, 
 With her plate and her liv'ries in splendid parade, 
 Will drink, in imperial, a friend at a sup, 
 Or in gunpowder blow them by dozens all up. 
 Ah me ! how I groan, when with full swelling sail, 
 Wafted stately along by the favouring gale, 
 A China ship proudly arrives in our bay, 
 Displaying her streamers, and blazing away. 
 Oh ! more fell to the port is the cargo she bears, 
 Than granades, torpedos, or warlike affairs :. 
 Each chest is a bomb-shell thrown into our town 
 To shatter repute, and bring characters down. 
 
 Ye Samquas, ye Chinquas, Consequas, so free 
 Who discharge on our coast your cursed quantums of tea. 
 Oh think as ye waft the sad weed from your strand, 
 Of the plagues and vexations ye deal to our land. 
 As the Upas* dread breath o'er the plain where it flies, 
 Empoisons and blasts each green blade that may rise, 
 So wherever the leaves of your shrub find their way, 
 The social affections soon suffer decay : 
 Like to Java's drear waste they embarren the heart, 
 'Till the blossoms of love, and of friendship depart. 
 
 Ah ! ladies, and was it, by4ieaven, designed 
 That ye should be merciful; loving, and kind ! - 
 
tea: a poem. 337 
 
 t)id it form you like angels, and send you below 
 
 To prophesy peace, to bid charity flow ! 
 
 And have ye thus left your primeval estate, 
 
 And wandered so widely ; so strangely of late ? 
 
 Alas ! the sad cause I too plainly can see, 
 
 These evils have all come upon you through tea; 
 
 Cursed weed that can make our fair spirits resign 
 
 The character mild of their mission divine ; 
 
 That can blot from their bosoms that tenderness true; 
 
 Which from female to female for ever is due ! 
 
 Oh how nice is the texture, how fragile the frame 
 
 Of that delicate blossom, a female's fair fame ! 
 
 'Tis the sensitive plant, it recoils from the breath, 
 
 And shrinks from the touch, as if pregnant with death'. 
 
 How often, how often* has innocence sigh'd j 
 
 Has beauty been reft of its honour 5 its pride 5 
 
 Has virtue, though pure as an angel of light, 
 
 Been painted as dark as a demon of night : 
 
 All offered up victims, an auto dafe, 
 
 At the gloomy cabals — the dark orgies of tea. 
 
 If I, in the remnant that's left me of life, 
 Am to suffer the torments of slanderous strife, 
 Let me fall, I implore, in the slangwhanger's claw, 
 Where the evil is open, and subject to law. 
 Not nibbled and mumbled, and put to the rack 
 By the sly underminings of tea party clack : 
 Condemn me, ye gods, to a newspaper roasting, 
 But spare me ! oh spare me, a tea table toasting i 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
338 PACIFIC GOVERNMENT. 
 
 LETTER 
 
 From MUSTAPHA RUBADUB KELI KHAN, to ASEM 
 HACCHEM, principal Slave-driver to his Highness the 
 Bashaw of Tri]Joli. 
 
 I promised in a former letter, good Asem, that 
 I would furnish thee with a few hints respecting 
 the nature of the government hy which I am 
 held in durance. Though my inquiries for that 
 purpose have been industrious, yet I am not 
 perfectly satisfied with their results, for thou 
 mayest easily imagine that the vision of a captive 
 is overshadowed by the mists of illusion and pre- 
 judice, and the horizon of his speculations must 
 be limited indeed. 
 
 I find that the people of this country are 
 strangely at a loss to determine the nature and 
 proper character of their government : even their 
 dervises are extremely in the dark as to this par- 
 ticular, and are continually indulging in the 
 most preposterous disquisitions on the subject; 
 some have insisted that it savours of an aristo- 
 cracy ; others maintain that it is a pure demo- 
 cracy; and a third set of theorists declare, ab- 
 solutely, that it is nothing more nor less than a 
 mobocracy. The latter, I must confess, though 
 still wide in error, have come nearest the truth. 
 You of course must understand the meaning of 
 
PACIFIC GOVERNMENT. 339 
 
 these different words, as they are derived from 
 the ancient Greek language, and bespeak loudly 
 the verbal poverty of these poor infidels, who 
 cannot utter a learned phrase without laying the 
 dead languages under contribution. A man, my 
 dear Asem, who talks good sense in his native 
 tongue, is held in tolerable estimation in this 
 country ; but a fool who clothes his feeble ideas 
 in a foreign or antique garb, is bowed down to 
 as a literary prodigy. While I conversed with 
 these people in plain English, I was but little at- 
 tended to; but the moment I prosed away in 
 Greek, every one looked up to me with venera- 
 tion as an oracle. 
 
 Although the tier vises differ widely in the par- 
 ticulars above-mentioned, yet they all agree in 
 terming their government one of the most pacific 
 in the known world. I cannot help pitying their 
 ignorance, and smiling, at times, to see into what 
 ridiculous errors those nations will wander who 
 are unenlightened by the precepts of Mahomet, 
 our divine prophet, and uninstructed by the five 
 hundred and forty-nine books of wisdom of the 
 
 immortal Ibrahim Hassan Al Fusti. To call this 
 
 f 
 
 nation pacific! mOst preposterous! It reminds 
 me of the title assumed by the Sheick of that mur- 
 derous tribe of wild Arabs that desolate the val 
 leys of Belsaden, who styles himself Star of dour-- 
 test/ — beam of the mercy seat ! 
 
 The simple truth of the mat tor is, that these 
 
 %% 
 
340 LOGOCIIACY. 
 
 people are totally ignorant of their own true* 
 character ; for, according to the best of my ob- 
 servation they are the most warlike, and I must 
 say, the most savage nation that I have yet dis- 
 covered among all the barbarians. They are not 
 only at war (in their own way) with almost 
 every nation on earth, but they are at the same 
 time engaged in the most complicated knot of 
 civil wars that ever infested any poor country on 
 which Alia has denounced his malediction. 
 
 To let thee at once into a secret, which is 
 unknown to these people themselves, their go- 
 vernment is a pure unadulterated logocracy, or 
 government of words. The whole nation does 
 every thing viva voce, or by word of mouth, and 
 in this manner, is one of the most military nations 
 in existence. Every man who has, what is here 
 called, the gift of the gab, that is a plentiful stock 
 of verbosity, becomes a soldier outright and is 
 for ever in a militant state. The country is en- 
 tirely defended vi et lingua, that is to say, by 
 force of tongues. The account which I lately 
 wrote to our friend the snorer, respecting the 
 immense army of six hundred men, makes no- 
 thing against this observation; that formidable 
 body being kept up, as I have already observed, 
 only to amuse their fair countrywomen by their 
 splendid appearance and nodding plumes, and 
 are, by way of distinction, denominated the u de- 
 fenders of the fair". 
 
SLANGWHANGERS. 341 
 
 In a logocracy thou well knowest there is little 
 or no occasion for fire arms, or any such de- 
 structive weapons. Every offensive or defensive 
 measure is inforced by wordy battle, and paper 
 war ; he who has the longest tongue,, or readiest 
 quill, is sure to gain the victory; will carry 
 horror, abuse, and ink shed into the vqry trenches 
 of the enemy, and without mercy or remorse, put 
 men, women, and children to the point of the — 
 pen ! 
 
 There are still preserved in this country, some 
 remains of that gothic spirit of knight-errantry 
 which so much annoyed the faithful in the mid- 
 dle ages of the Hegira : as notwithstanding 
 their martial disposition, they are a people much 
 given to commerce and agriculture, and must, 
 necessarily, at certain seasons be engaged in those 
 employments, they have accommodated them- 
 selves by appointing knights or constant warriors, 
 incessant brawlers, similar to those who, in for- 
 mer ages, swore eternal enmity to the followers 
 of our divine prophet. These knights, denomi- 
 nated editors, or slangwhangers, are appointed in 
 every town, village, and district, to carry on both 
 foreign and internal warfare, and may be said to 
 keep up a constant firing " in words." Oh, my 
 friend, could you but witness the enormities 
 sometimes committed by these tremendous slang- 
 whangers, your very turban would rise with 
 horror and astonishment. I have seen them ex- 
 
849 
 
 TOM PAINE. 
 
 tend their ravages even into the kitchens of their 
 opponents, and annihilate the very cook with a 
 blast ; and I do assure thee, I beheld one of these 
 warriors attack a most venerable bashaw, and at 
 one stroke of his pen, lay him open from the 
 waistband of his breeches to his chin ! 
 
 There has been a civil war carrying on with 
 great violence for some time past, in consequence 
 of a conspiracy among the higher classes, to de- 
 throne his highness the present bashaw, and 
 place another in his stead. I was mistaken when 
 I formerly asserted to thee, that this disaffection 
 arose from his wearing red breeches. It is true 
 the nation have long held that colour in great 
 detestation, in consequence of a dispute they had 
 some twenty years since, with the barbarians of 
 the British islands. The colour is, however, 
 again rising into favour, as the ladies have trans- 
 ferred it to their heads, from the bashaw's — bodjf. 
 The true reason, I am told, is, that the bashaw 
 absolutely refuses to believe in the deluge, and 
 in the story of Balaam's ass; maintaining that 
 this animal was never yet permitted to talk, ex- 
 cept in a genuine logocracy, where it is true his 
 voice may often be heard, and is listened to with 
 reverence, as "the voice of the sovereign people." 
 Nay, so far did he carry his obstinacy, that he ab- 
 solutely invited a professed Antediluvian from the 
 Gallic empire, who illuminated the whole country 
 
AMERICAN ABUSE. 342 
 
 with his principles — and his nose* This was 
 enough to set the nation in a blaze : every slang- 
 whanger resorted to his tongue or his pen ; and 
 for seven years have they carried on a most in- 
 human war, in which volumes of words hava 
 been expended, oceans of ink have been shed, nor 
 has any mercy been shewn to age, sex, or con- 
 dition. Every day have these slangwhangers 
 made furious attacks on each other, and upon 
 their respective adherents, discharging their heavy 
 artillery consisting of large sheets loaded with 
 scoundrel ! villain ! liar ! rascal ! numbskull ! 
 nincompoop ! dunderhead! wiseacre! blockhead ! 
 jackass ! and I do swear by my beard, though I 
 know thou wilt scarcely credit me, that in some 
 of these skirmishes the grand bashaw himself has 
 been woefully pelted ! yea, most ignominiously 
 pelted! and yet have these talking desperadoes 
 escaped without the bastinado !* 
 
 Every now and then a slangwhanger, who has 
 a longer head, of rather a longer tongue, than the 
 rest, will elevate his piece, and discharge a shot 
 quite across the ocean, levelled at the head of the 
 Emperor of France, the King of England, or, 
 ( woulds't thou believe it, Asem,) even at his su- 
 blime highness the Bashaw of Tripoli! these long 
 pieces are loaded with single ball, or langridge 
 as tyrant ! usurper ! robber ! tyger ! monster ! 
 
 and thou mays't well suppose, they occasion 
 
 — - I, ■ -~i _^_^^ ——-J ^» 
 
 * Tom Paine 
 
344 CONGRESS. 
 
 great distress and dismay in the camps of the 
 enemy, and are marvellously annoying to the 
 crowned heads at which they are directed. The 
 slangwhauger, though perhaps the mere cham- 
 pion of a village, having fired off his shot, struts 
 about with great self-congratulation, chuckling 
 at the prodigious bustle he must have occasioned, 
 and seems to ask of every stranger, " Well, Sir, 
 what do they think of me in Europe?" This is 
 sufficient to shew you the manner in which these 
 bloody, or rather windy fellows fight; it is the 
 only mode allowable in a logocracy, or govern- 
 ment of words. I would also observe that their 
 civil wars have a thousand ramifications. While 
 the fury of the battle rages in the metropolis, 
 every little town and village has a distinct broil, 
 growing like excrescences out of the grand na- 
 tional altercation, or rather agitating within 
 it, like those complicated pieces of mechanism 
 where there is a " wheel within a wheel." 
 
 But in nothing is the verbose nature of thjs 
 government more evident, than in its grand na- 
 tional Divan, or Congress, where the laws are 
 framed ; this is a blustering, windy assembly, 
 where every thing is carried by noise, tumult, and 
 debate ; for thou must know, that the members 
 of this assembly do not meet together to find 
 wisdom in the multitude of counsellors, but to 
 wrangle, call each other hard names, and hear 
 themselves talk. When the Congress opens, the 
 
CONGRESS. 345 
 
 bashaw first sends them a long message (i. e. a 
 huge mass of words: vox et preterea nihil) all 
 meaning nothing; because it only tells them what 
 they perfectly know already. The whole assem- 
 bly are thrown into a ferment, and have a long 
 talk about the quantity of worcs that are to be 
 returned to this message : and here arises many 
 disputes about the correction and alteration of 
 " if so b&%" and " howsoever' s." A month, 
 perhaps, is spent in thus determining the precise 
 number of words the answer shall contain, and 
 then another most probably in concluding whe- 
 ther it shall be carried to the bashaw on foot, on 
 horseback, or in coaches. Having settled this 
 weighty matter, they next fall to work upon the 
 message itself, and hold as much chattering over 
 it, as so many magpies over an addled egg. This 
 done, they divide the message into small portions, 
 and deliver them into the hands of little juntas of 
 talkers, called committees : these juntas have each 
 a world of talking about their respective para- 
 graphs, and return the results to the grand Divan, 
 which forthwith falls to, and retalks the matter 
 over more earnestly than ever. 
 
 Now, after all, it is an even chance that the 
 subject of this prodigious arguing, quarrelling, 
 and talking is an affair of uo importance, and 
 ends entirely in smoke. May it not then be said, 
 the whole nation have been talking to no pur- 
 pose? The people in fact seem to be somewhat 
 
345 -WINDY NATION. 
 
 conscious of this propensity to talk, by which 
 they are characterized, and have a favourite pro- 
 verb on the subject, viz. "All talk and no cyder i" 
 this is particularly applied when their Congress (or 
 assembly of all the sage chatterers of the nation) 
 have chattered through a whole session in a time 
 of great peril and momentous event, and have 
 done nothing but exhibit the length of their 
 tongues, and the emptiness of their heads. This 
 has been the case, more than once, my friend ; 
 and to let thee into a secret, I have been told, in 
 confidence, that there have been absolutely seve- 
 ral old women smuggled into Congress from dif- 
 ferent parts of the empire, who having once got 
 on the breeches, as thou mayest well imagine, 
 have taken the lead in debate, and overwhelmed 
 the whole assembly with their garrulity ; for my 
 part, as times go, I do not see why old womer* 
 should not be as eligible to public councils as old 
 men who possess their dispositions; they are cer- 
 tainly eminently possessed of the qualifications 
 requisite to govern in a logocracy. 
 
 Nothing, as I have repeatedly insisted, can be 
 done in this country without Talking; but they 
 take so long to talk over a measure, that by the 
 tittle they have determined upon adopting it, the 
 period has elapsed which was proper for carrying 
 it into effect. Unhappy nation, thus torn to 
 pieces by intestine talks ! never, I fear, will it be 
 restored to tranquillity and silence. Words are 
 
RED BItEECHES. 347 
 
 but breatl: — breath i^ but air; and air put in 
 motion is nothing; but wind. This vast empire,, 
 therefore, may be compared to nothing more nor 
 less than a mighty windmill, and the orators, 
 the chatterers, and the slangwhangers, are the 
 breezes that put it in motion ; unluckily, how- 
 ever, ttrey are apt to blow different ways, and 
 their blasts counteracting each other, the mill is 
 perplexed, the wheels stand still, the grist is un- 
 ground, and the miller and his family are starved. 
 
 Every thing partakes of the windy nature of 
 thegovernment. In case of any domestic grievance, 
 or an insult from a foreign foe, the people are all 
 in a buzz: town meetings are immediately held, 
 where the quidnuncs of the city repair, each like an 
 atlas, with the cares of the whole nation upon his 
 shoulders ; each resolutely bent upon saving his 
 country ; aud each swelling and strutting like a 
 turkey-cock, puffed up with words, and wind, 
 and nonsense. After bustling, and buzzing, and 
 bawling for some time ; and after each man has 
 shewn himself to be indubitably the greatest per- 
 sonage in the meeting, they pass a string of re- 
 solutions (i. e. words) which were previously 
 prepared for the purpose ; these resolutions are 
 whimsically denominated the sense of the meet- 
 ing, and are sent off for the instruction of the 
 reigning bashaw, who receives them graciously, 
 puts them into his red breeches pocket, forgets to 
 read them, and so the matter ends. 
 
 As to his highness, the present bashaw, who 
 
348 . AMERICAN RESENTMENT. 
 
 is at the very top of the logocracy, never was a 
 dignitary bette'r qualified for his station. He is 
 a man of superlative ventosity, jmd comparable 
 to nothing but a huge bladder of wind. He 
 talks of vanquishing all opposition by the force 
 of reason and philosophy; throws his gauntlet at 
 all the nations of the earth, and defies them to 
 meet him on the field of argument I Is the na- 
 tional dignity insulted, a case in which his High- 
 ness of Tripoli would call forth his forces — the 
 Bashaw of America utters a speech. Does a 
 foreign invader molest the commerce in the very 
 mouth of the harbours, an insult which would 
 induce his Highness of Tripoli to order out his 
 fleets— his Highness of America utters a speech. 
 Are the free citizens of America dragged from 
 on board the vessels of their country, and forcibly 
 detained in the war-ships of another power — his 
 Highness utters a speech. Is a peaceable citizen 
 killed by the marauders of a foreign power, on the 
 very shores of his country—- his Highness utters 
 a speech. Does an alarming insurrection break 
 out in a distant part of the empire — his Highness 
 utters a speech I Nay, more, for here he shews 
 his " energies/' he most intrepidly dispatches a 
 courier on horseback, and orders him to ride one 
 hundred-and-twenty miles a day with a most for- 
 midable army— of proclamations (i. e. a collec- 
 tion of words) packed up in his saddle-bags. He 
 is instructed to shew no favour nor affection ; 
 
CHARACTER OF NATIONS. 394 
 
 but to charge the thickest ranks of the enemy, 
 and to speechify and batter by words the con- 
 spiracy and the conspirators out of existence. 
 Heavens, my friend, what a deal of blustering is 
 here ! It reminds me of a dunghill cock in a 
 farm - yard, who, having accidentally in his 
 scratchings found a worm, immediately begins 
 a most vociferous cackling, calls around him his 
 hen-hearted companions, who run chattering 
 from all quarters to gobble up the poor little 
 worm that happened to turn under his eye. Oh 
 Asem, Asem ! On what a prodigious great scale 
 is every thing in this country ! 
 
 Thus, then, I conclude my observations. The 
 infidel nations have each a separate character- 
 istic trait, by which they may be distinguished 
 from each other: the Spaniards, for instance, 
 may be said to sleep upon every affair of import- 
 ance; the Italians to fiddle upon every thing ; 
 the French to dance upon every thing; the Ger- 
 man to smoke upon every thing ; the British 
 islanders to eat upon every thing ; and the xvindy 
 subjects of the American logoeracy to talk upon 
 every thing. 
 
 Ever thine, 
 
 MuSTAPHA. 
 
 END OF SALMAGUNDI. 
 
350 IE AYE NEW YORK. 
 
 CHAP. XXXV. 
 
 Leave Nero York for Charleston — Take pas- 
 * sage in the Calliope — Fellow passengers — The 
 Irish Knife -grinder — Gun Boats — Quarantine 
 Ground — Sandy Hook — Gulf Stream — Arrival 
 at Charleston — Streets— Houses — Public Build- 
 ings — East Bay — St. Michael's — The Branch 
 Bank — Charleston Library — The Museum — 
 Poisonous Tree — Pernicious Effects of the Pride 
 of India — Turkey Buzzards — Dead Horses — 
 The Golgotha — Negligence of the Municipa- 
 lity — Public Buildings — The Orphan House — 
 The Theatre — Vauxhall — Anecdote of Mrs. 
 S — Unfortunate Courtship — The Market-place 
 — Productions — Price of Provisions, $c. 
 
 I had now remained at New York upwards 
 of six weeks, during which, the weather had been 
 remarkably agreeable. Sometimes it was as mild 
 and open as spring, and at other times diversi- 
 fied with a gentle frost, which suited better with 
 the season. But at length winter began to shew 
 itself it its true colours ; the snow fell in consi- 
 derable quantities, and was succeeded by a keen 
 and piercing frost, which crowded (he Hudson 
 and East Rivers with floating ice. This was ths 
 
FEXLOW PASSENGERS. 351 
 
 period I chose for my emigration to the south- 
 ward. Like the bird of passage, I had quitted 
 the bleak air of Canada at the approach of 
 winter, for the wanner one of New York, where 
 autumn still reigned <c in milder majesty." Here 
 I rested for a few weeks, until I was again over- 
 taken by the icy hand of old Winter. This time, 
 however, I was determined to elude his grasp, 
 and on the 9th January, 1808^1 went on board 
 one of the regular packets for Charleston, in South 
 Carolina. 
 
 The vessel was a small brig, called the Cal- 
 liope, and commanded by Captain Records, who 
 had formerly been an officer in the United States 
 navy. There were four other passengers iu the 
 cabin; one of them a Mr. Franklin of the New 
 York bank, I had been introduced to, the even- 
 ing before, a circumstance the more agreeable, 
 as it is a better prelude to acquaintance, than the 
 casual meeting of strangers on board a ship; and 
 in a foreign country, such little intimacies serve 
 to render travelling very agreeable. This gen- 
 tleman was a native of Nova Scotia, but had re- 
 sided several years at New York : he was going 
 to Charleston for the recovery of his health, 
 which had been much impaired by the confine- 
 ment of office. Another of the passengers was 
 " also going to avoid the sharp air of New Eng- 
 land, and to pass the winter in Charleston for the 
 double purpose of recruiting his health, and col- 
 
352 THE KNIFE GRiNDEI*. 
 
 lecting some outstanding debts, owing' to him hi 
 that city. This gentleman, whose name was 
 Turner, had resided several years at Charleston, 
 as a dancing and fencing master. He had beeri 
 a captain in the continental army during the 
 American war; but on the return of peace was 
 disbanded, and obliged to take up those profes- 
 sions as the only means of obtaining a livelihood. 
 He was descended from an English family in 
 Essex, and was proud to acknowledge it. His 
 manners were uncommonly pleasant, and amus- 
 ing, and during the whole passage, he afforded 
 us great diversion, by the facetiousness of his 
 disposition, and the number of entertaining anec- 
 dotes which he related. The other passengers 
 were, a Mr. Bird, an English gentleman who re- 
 sided in New York, as merchant, and agent for 
 a house in London ; and Mr. Wilson a young 
 American trader, belonging to Gennessee county., 
 in the state of New York. 
 
 These were the whole of the cabin passengers, 
 exclusive of myself. But I must not omit to 
 mention a forecastle passenger, who messed with 
 the sailors. He was an old Irishman, who had 
 lived many years, in the United States, and was 
 now going upon a speculation to Charleston, in 
 the itinerant knife and razor-grinding profession. 
 His wheels and other apparatus were stowed away 
 in the long-boat upon deck, and he took up his 
 quarters in the hold, upon some trusses of hay, 
 
GUN BOATS. 353 
 
 which served him for a bed. He had for a fellow- 
 passenger a Horse, who while the grinder was 
 asleep, would frequently devour the bed from 
 under him. . 
 
 We left New York about nine, with the ad- 
 vantage of a fine clear morning, and fair wind, 
 to sail through the Narrows. There are three 
 small islands in the bay, the largest of which, 
 called Governor's Island, lies opposite the city, to 
 the eastward of the battery. It consists of about 
 70 acres of land, and its jurisdiction has been 
 ceded by the state of New York to the United 
 States, for the purposes of public defence. It 
 contains a fortification called Fort Jay ; but that, 
 as well as the fort on one of the smaller islands 
 near the Jersey shore, are very inadequate to the 
 defence of such a large and wealthy city. 
 
 To the westward of New York, on the Jersey 
 shore, is Powle's Hook. It is a small peninsula, 
 intersected with creeks, and salt meadows, but of 
 late has been considerably improved by a com- 
 pany, who have established themselves, for the 
 purpose of building a city, which is to become 
 the capital of the state of New Jersey, and in- 
 tended to rival New York. A few straggling 
 buildings are all that yet appear. It was on this 
 shore, that General Hamilton, and Colonel Burr 
 evaded the laws of New York, and fought the 
 duel which proved fatal to the former gentle- 
 man. 
 
 VOL. if. n \ 
 
354 QUARANTINE GROUND. 
 
 As we approached near Staten Island, we wei*c 
 boarded by an officer, from one of the gun-boafs 
 cruizing in the bay. lie examined the captain's 
 papers, and being satisfied that we were bound 
 only to a port in the United States, he allowed 
 US to proceed on our voyage. Several instances 
 have occurred of vessels breaking the embargo 
 laws and escaping to the West Indies or Europe. 
 They cannot, however, return while the act is in 
 force, but must trade between foreign places, 
 under the protection of an English license or a 
 French certificate of origin. 
 
 We observed a great number of gun-boats at 
 the Quarantine Ground. They are a small despi- 
 cable craft, built of various sizes, shapes, and fi- 
 gures, some of one mast, others with two; the latter 
 have one mast raking forward, and the other aff, 
 with narrow lug sails, but they do not appear to 
 please the eye of a seaman, for I have never yet 
 heard them spoken of, with approbation, by any 
 nautical man. They generally carry one gun, 
 from 24 to 38 pounder, and from 20 to 30 men, 
 with two or three officers, though their full co?n- 
 plement is upwards of 50 men. A part of the 
 crew are artillerymen, who act also as marines. 
 The accommodations on board are very uncom- 
 fortable; for few of them will admit a man to 
 stand upright, being built broad and shallow, for 
 the purpose of running into shoal water. When 
 they put to sea in blowing weather, the men are 
 
QUARANTINE GROUND. 355 
 
 constantly wet. They are only fit for smooth 
 and shallow waters as a defence against the arm- 
 ed boats of hostile shipping, but never against 
 the ships themselves; for one broadside from a 
 frigate would sink a dozen of them. The only 
 service in which they have hitherto been of any 
 use is, in enforcing the municipal regulations of 
 the United States upon the rivers, harbours and 
 waters of the union. They have, however, been 
 sometimes found inadequate even in this easy 
 service, for several vessels have escaped from port 
 since the embargo, and even returned the fire of 
 these insignificant craft. 
 
 The Quarantine Ground is situated on the 
 north east side of Staten Island, and comprizes 
 about thirty acres of land, which was bought 
 by the state of New York about ten years ago 
 for the accommodation of the sick, and for the 
 detention of such vessels as were too foul for ad- 
 mission to the wharves of the city. The ground 
 is pleasantly situated on the side "of a hill, and 
 the neat and commodious appearance of the 
 dwelling houses, stores, hospitals, &c. is very 
 agreeable, particularly to those who have just 
 arrived from sea. A branch of the custom-house 
 is also stationed here. A short distance from this 
 place is Signal-hill, where a number of poles are 
 erected to display the public and private signals, 
 which may be seen from the battery at New 
 A\2 
 
356 SANDY HOOK. 
 
 York. Every merchant has a particular signal 
 to inform him of the arrival of his vessels, long 
 before they come in sight of the town, in the 
 same manner as practised at Liverpool. The 
 land hereabout is considerably elevated, and is 
 divided from Long Island by a small channel 
 called the Narrows : a shoal extends nearly one 
 third across the chaunel towards State n Island; 
 and from the appearance of the land on both 
 shores, I am led to think that Staten and Long 
 Island were formerly one. 
 
 Sandy Hook is a narrow beach, running from 
 south to north about eight miles from the foot 
 of the Neversink hills. It was formerly con- 
 nected with the*continent; but during the winter 
 of 1804 it was detached from thence, and form- 
 ed into an island. Small coasting craft can pass 
 through the opening at high water. A noble 
 light house is erected upon the Hook, and stands 
 about due south from the city hall of New York. 
 During the American war, the Countess Dowager 
 of Morton, erected on the west side of Sandy-hook 
 a line monument of marble to the memory of her 
 son, Lieutenant Halliburton, of the royal navy, 
 who, together with a boat's crew, perished there 
 in a snow storm. A few years ago this work of 
 parental affection was beat down and destroyed, 
 by the crew of a French armed ship, in a manner 
 that reflects no honour upon their professional or 
 
GULF STREAM. * 35? 
 
 manly feelings. It was ungenerous to wage war 
 with the dead, or to demolish the works erected 
 to perpetuate their fame. 
 
 Towards evening we lost sight of the Never- 
 sink Hills, and could not help reflecting upon the 
 absurdity of their name, while I beheld their 
 summits sink gradually into the ocean as the ves- 
 sel receded from the coast. On the fourth day 
 we passed the light house on Cape Hatteras 
 about four in the afternoon, soon after which, it 
 came on to blow with great violence, the wiiid 
 changed, and by the next morning we found 
 ourselves in the gulf stream. The gale con- 
 tinued to increase, and for six and thirty houri 
 we lay to, under a double-reefed fore-and-aft 
 main sail, and storm staysail. The gulf stream 
 is said to be upwards of 100 miles distant from 
 the coast, and is nearly of the same extent in 
 breadth. It makes a circuit through the Gulf of 
 Mexico, round Florida, from whence it runs to 
 the northward as far as the banks of Newfound- 
 land, where it branches off' to the eastward. In 
 this stream the sea is almost always violently 
 agitated, and covered with dense vapours; its 
 water is considerably warmer than that of the 
 surrounding ocean, and of a greater depth. The 
 fogs, on the banks of Newfoundland, are no doubt 
 in a great measure produced by the gulf stream ; 
 and from the rapidity of its currents, breaking 
 over such an immense surface of earth as the 
 
358 ARRIVAL AT CHARLESTON. 
 
 grand bank, arises that almost constant raging-of 
 the ocean peculiar to that place. 
 
 On the sixth day the gale moderated, but a 
 heavy sea continued, and prevented us- from get- 
 ting clear of the gulf stream, which had carried 
 us almost back again to the latitude of New 
 York; for it runs, upon an average, at the rate 
 of three miles an hour. Fortunately for us, the 
 weather became more favourable, and by the 
 next morning we were clear of the stream. It 
 was, however, upwards of seven days more be- 
 fore we arrived off Charleston, though its dis- 
 tance from New York is not more than 750 
 miles, and a passage between the two cities is 
 qften made in three or four days. 
 
 I was glad to find myself again on shore, after 
 a rough arjd tedious voyage of fourteen days, 
 though I considered myself somewhat fortunate, 
 for Mr. Welch who left me at New York was 
 three weeks on his passage to Charleston. It 
 was now the 23d of Januarys and a smart frost 
 had prevailed here for two or three days; but no 
 snow had fallen so far to the southward. The? 
 weather afterwards became extremely mild, and 
 even rivalled, in warmth, an English summer. 
 
 The site of Charleston nearly resembles that 
 of Ne\y York, being on a point of land at the 
 confluence of the rivers Ashley and Cooper, and 
 about fifteen miles distant from the light-house, 
 The town is built on a level, sandy soil, whicri 
 
STREETS- 359 
 
 is elevated but a few feet above the height of 
 spring tides. The streets extend east and west 
 between the two rivers, and others intersect them 
 nearly at right angles from north to south. From 
 its open exposure to the ocean, it is subject to 
 storms and inundations, which affect the security 
 of its harbour. The city has also suffered much 
 by fires; the last, in 1796, destroyed upwards of 
 500 houses and occasioned 300,000/. sterling, 
 damage. 
 
 The number of dwelling-houses, public build- 
 ings, and warehouses, &c , at present in Charles- 
 ton, is estimated at 3,500. With the exception 
 of Meeting-street, Broad-street, and the bay, 
 the streets are in general narrow and confined. 
 They are all un paved, and in blowing weather, 
 whirlwinds of dust and sand fill the houses, and 
 blind the eyes of the people. The foot paths 
 are all constructed of bricks; but a few years 
 ago, not even this convenience existed. It is 
 said that objections have been made to the pav- 
 ing of Charleston, f under an impression that it 
 would render the streets hotter; but this must 
 surely be an erroneous idea; for a sandy soil im- 
 bibes the heat much quicker, and retains it longer 
 than a pavenient of stone. Yet even if that was 
 not the case, still the deliterious effect which the 
 sand,, exposed to the action of violent winds, must 
 necessarily have upon the eyes and lungs of the 
 ^inhabitants, would more than counterbalance the 
 
360 east bXy. 
 
 increase of heat that it is supposed would ac- 
 crue from paving the streets. I should however, 
 rather suspect, that it is the expense alone, which 
 is objectionable ; since the paving of the streets 
 in Philadelphia has rendered that city both 
 healthy and cool, and its salutary effects are ob- 
 vious to the inhabitants. The drains in Charles- 
 ton are also too small to carry off the filth and 
 putrid matter which collect from all parts of the 
 town; these and the numerous swamps and stag- 
 nant pieces of water, mud, &c. in the neighbour- 
 hood, no doubt tend considerably to the un- 
 healthiness of the place. 
 
 The houses in the streets near the water side, 
 including that part of the town between Meet- 
 ing-street, and the street called East Bay, are 
 lofty, and closely built. The bricks are of a 
 peculiar nature, being of a porous texture, and 
 capable of resisting the weather better than the 
 firm, close, red brick of the northern states. 
 They are made in Carolina, and are of a dark 
 brown colour, which gives the buildings a 
 gloomy appearance. The roofs are tiled, or slat- 
 ed. In this part of the town the principal shop- 
 keepers and merchants have their stores, ware- 
 houses and counting houses. Houses here bear 
 a very high rent ; those in Broad and Church- 
 streets for shops, let for upwards of 300/. per 
 annum ; those along the Bay with warehouses, 
 let for 700/. and more, according to the size, an^ 
 
HOUSES. S61 
 
 situation of the buildings. The shipping, as at 
 New York, lie along the wharves, or in small 
 docks and slips along the town. The wharves 
 are built of a peculiar sort of wood, called the 
 palmetto or cabbage-tree, the trunk of which is 
 of a spongy, porous substance, and has the qua- 
 lity of being more durable in water, or under 
 ground, than when exposed to the air. This 
 renders it particularly excellent for the construc- 
 tion of wharves, piers &c. The embargo had 
 reached Charleston about a fortnight before I 
 arrived; I had not, therefore, an opportunity of 
 judging of its trade from appearances, as every 
 thing was dull and flat, and all business, except 
 the coasting trade, completely at a stand. 
 
 The houses in Meeting-street and the back 
 parts of the town, are many of them handsomely 
 built ; some of brick, others of wood. They are 
 in general lofty and extensive, and are separated 
 from each other by small gardens or yards, in 
 which the kitchens and out offices are built. 
 Almost every house is furnished with balconies 
 and verandas, some of which occupy the whole 
 side of the building from top to bottom, having 
 a gallery for each floor. They are sometimes 
 shaded with Venetian blinds, and afford the in- 
 habitants a pleasant, cool retreat from the scorch- 
 ing beams of the sun. Most of the modern 
 houses are built with much taste and elegance; 
 hut the chief aim seems to be, to make them as 
 
362 Tilt BHA3ICH BANK. 
 
 cool as possible. The town is also crowded 
 with wootjen buildings of a very inferior de- 
 scription. 
 
 Three of the public buildings, and the epis- 
 copal church of St. Michael, are situated at the 
 four corners formed by the intersection of Broad 
 and Meeting-streets, the two principal avenues 
 ?u Charleston. St. Michael's is a large substan- 
 tial church, with a lofty steeple and spire. It is 
 J)uilt of brick cased with plaster. At present 
 it is not in the best state of repair, yet it is np 
 bad ornament to the towu. The Branch Bank of 
 the United States occupies one of the other cor- 
 ners. This is a substantial, and compared with 
 others in the town, a handsome building; but 
 from the injudicious intermixture of brick, stone 
 and marble, it has a motley appearance. The 
 body is of red brick ; the corners, sides, and 
 front are ornamented and interspersed with stone ; 
 pillars of marble adorn the entrance, and a fac- 
 ing of the same, covers the front of the ground 
 story, ty is indeed a compound of meanness and 
 magnificence. The expense of thjs building, I 
 understand, was enormous. Another corner of 
 the street is occupied by the gaol, with a courtr 
 yard and armoury. This building is no greaj; 
 ornament to the place ; but its situation, being 
 nearly centrical in the city, is well adapted to 
 further the regulations of the police. A guard 
 of about fifty men is maintained by the city, ancj 
 
CHARLESTON LIBRARY. . $&3 
 
 assembles every evening at the gaol, where it is 
 ready to act, in case of disturbance. The men 
 are chiefly foreigners. The negro slaves and ser- 
 vants are not allowed to be out after the beating 
 of the drum at eight o'clock, otherwise they are 
 taken up by the guard w T hen going its rounds, 
 and confined in the gaol. The master or mis- 
 tress must pay a dollar before they can be libe- 
 rated, otherwise the offender receives a flogging 
 at the sugar-house. 
 
 The fourth corner is occupied by a large sub- 
 stantial building of brick, cased with plaster. 
 The ground floor is appropriated to the courts 
 of law ; above that are most of the public offices, 
 and the upper story contains .the Charleston 
 Library and Museum. The lower parts of the 
 building are much out of repair, but the upper 
 apartments are kept in good order. Purjng my 
 stay, I was allowed free access to the library, hav- 
 ing been introduced by a friend, to Mr. David- 
 son the librarian. It was open from nine in the 
 morning till two in the afternoon, and I spent 
 many an hour in it very agreeably. The library 
 contains about 4,000 volumes, well selected and 
 arranged. They are mostly modern publica- 
 tions. 
 
 The library contains Boydell's elegant edition 
 4>f Shakspeare, and the large prints are framed, 
 and hung up round the room. The portraits of 
 the king and queen, belonging to that edition, ate 
 
361 THE MUSEUM. 
 
 placed on either side the door-way leading to the 
 inner room. I was not surprized at the obscurity 
 of their situation, but was astonished to find them 
 exhibited at all ; and it is said that some oppo- 
 sition was made to their being put up. There 
 is a large painting, executed by a Mr. White, of 
 Charleston, exhibited in the library, and is con- 
 sidered a very favourable effort for a young ar- 
 tist. The subject is the murder of Prince Arthur, 
 The countenances of the ruffians are scarcely 
 harsh enough, and their figures are not well 
 proportioned. It is, however, a more successful 
 specimen than could possibly be expected in a 
 place where the arts meet with no encourage- 
 ment, and where genius must resort to agricul- 
 ture or commerce; to law or physic, if it wishes 
 to avoid starvation! some new casts from the 
 Apollo, Belyidere, Venus de Medicis, Venus ris- 
 ing from the sea, &c. were deposited in the li- 
 brary to be exhibited for a short time. They 
 were the property of Mr. Middletoo and had 
 lately arrived from Paris. The library also con- 
 tains a few natural curiosities, such as fossils, 
 minerals, mammoth bones, snakes, armadilloes, 
 poisonous insects inspirits, &c. and two remark- 
 able deer's horns which were found locked in 
 each other, so as to render it impossible to se- 
 parate them without breaking. It is supposed 
 that the two animals had been righting, and had 
 forcibly locked their horns together in the onset, 
 
POISONOUS TREE. 365 
 
 and being unable to extricate themselves, they 
 both perished. A Museum has been lately 
 established by a gentleman, who occupies a 
 room adjoining, the library. His collection at 
 present consists chiefly of birds ; and I doubt 
 whether the liberality of the inhabitants will en- 
 able him to increase it. 
 
 A tree, called the pride of India, (melia aze- 
 darach) is planted in rows along the foot-paths 
 of the streets in Charleston. It does not grow 
 very high, but its umbrageous leaves and bran- 
 ches, afford the inhabitants an excellent shelter 
 from the sun. It has the advantage also of not 
 engendering insects, none of which can live 
 upon it in consequence of its poisonous qualities 
 The large clusters of flowers in blossom resemble 
 the lilac ; these are succeeded by bunches of yel- 
 low berries, each about the size of a small cherry, 
 and like it contains one stone. It is a deciduous 
 tree ; but the berries remain on all the winter, and 
 drop off the following spring. 
 
 Notwithstanding the pernicious qualities of 
 this tree, I have seen the cows and swine eat the 
 berries, which often lie upon the ground in large 
 quantities. It is said that cattle, and even birds, 
 are so fond of the fruit, that they frequently ex- 
 tend their bodies by excessive eating, and fall 
 down intoxicated ; but I have never heard that 
 they have been poisoned in consequence. Yet I 
 was told by a gentleman at Savannah, that a 
 
S66 poisonous tr£e. 
 
 friend of his had ascertained its noxious qualities/ 
 by steeping a quantity of the leaves in water, with 
 which he watered tho plants in his garden that 
 were infested with caterpillars and other vermin, 
 and it killed every one of them. This satisfac- 
 torily accounts for the reason why no insect can 
 dwell upon this tree : yet it is singular that the* 
 berries and leaves ( for it is asserted that cattle 
 eat both, though I have only seen them eat the 
 former), should not affect those animals and bird* 
 which partake so greedily of them ; while the 
 mere sprinkling of a decoction of the leaves upon 
 insects, will immediately destroy them. The 
 powerful odour which is emitted from these trees, 
 where they are planted numerously, is often sickly 
 and unpleasant ; at a distance it is agreeable, but 
 faint. I really think they must be unwholsome 
 in a populous city. The copious perspiration 
 arising from their leaves, which have been decid- 
 edly proved to possess a poisonous quality, must 
 inevitably infect the surrounding atmosphere, and, 
 in conjunction with the putrid exhalations from 
 marshes, swamps, fihhy bogs, drains, and sewers, 
 in and about the town, cannot fail to accumulate 
 those gross putrescent fluids which cause a variety 
 of irregular, nervous, bilious, remitting, and inter-* 
 mitting fevers. These no doubt ultimately en- 
 gender that dreadful scourge the typhus icti rocks, 
 or yellow fever, which is peculiar to Charleston^ 
 
PERNICIOUS EFFECTS OFTHE PRIDE OF I.NDIA. 367 
 
 and is not known to have originated in the in- 
 terior. 
 
 It is said that a decoction of the roots of the 
 pride of India, is an excellent anthelmintic, and 
 is used with much success in worm cases. This 
 however will prove nothing against its deleterious 
 qualities in other respects, for it is well known 
 that we make use of a great number of poisonous 
 herbs, and minerals, in medicine. Professor 
 Thunberg, in his travels to Japan, says, the fruit 
 of this tree was there used like the seeds of the 
 rhus succedanca, for making an expressed oil, 
 which oil grew hard like tallow, and was used for 
 candles. It would be an object wort!) y of enquiry 
 for the medical gentleman of Charleston, to as- 
 certain, rf possible, whether this tree is beneficial 
 or injurious to the health of the inhabitants. The 
 very advantages for which it is preferred above 
 other trees, appears to me a strong objection 
 against it ; for if it causes the death of those 
 insects which approach it, I do not see how it can 
 be otherwise than hurtful to the human frame, 
 constantly imbibing under a burning sun, the 
 faint and sickly vapours which arise from its wide- 
 spreading foliage. 
 
 It is surprizing thatthe inhabitantsof Charles- 
 ton, after what they have suffered from fevers, 
 should allow so many stagnant pieces of water, 
 and filthy bogs, to remain in different parts of the 
 town and neighbourhood, under the very windows 
 
368 TURKEY BUZZARDS. 
 
 of the dwelling houses. Surely they might fill 
 them up, and prevent such nuisances, from affect- 
 ing the health of the people, as they cannot fail 
 to do in their present state. The salt marshes 
 and swamps around the town, which are situate 
 so low as to be overflowed at high water, or spring 
 tides, cannot be avoided, though they emit a very 
 disagreeable effluvium at night; yet the other 
 nuisances which I have mentioned, might be 
 easily removed. 
 
 Another very extraordinary, indolent, or parsi- 
 monious neglect of their own health and comfort 
 is, the filthy and brutal practice of dragging dy- 
 ing horses, or the carcases of dead ones, to a field 
 in the outskirts of the town, near the high road, 
 and leaving them to be devoured by a crowd of 
 ravenous dogs, and Turkey buzzards. The latter 
 are large, black birds, resembling a turkey, both 
 in size and appearance ; but from their carnivor- 
 ous nature they have a most offensive smell. They 
 hover over Charleston in great numbers, and are 
 useful in destroying the putrid substances which 
 lie in different parts of the city ; for this reason 
 they are not allowed to be killed. The encourage- 
 ment of these carrion birds, however useful they 
 may be, is extremely improper ; for the people, 
 instead of burying putrid substances, or throw- 
 ing them into the river, are thus induced to leave 
 them upon dunghills, exposed to the action of a 
 powerful sun in the, hottest seasous, to be de- 
 
THE GOLGOTHA. 369 
 
 stroyed by those birds. The latter, though ex- 
 tremely quick in devouring their dainty morsels, 
 yet do not demolish them before the air is impreg- 
 nated with the most noxious effluvia, arising from 
 the putrid carcases of dead dogs, cats, horses, &c. 
 I have frequently seen half a dozen dogs and 
 above a hundred Turkey buzzards, barking and 
 hissing in fierce contention for the entrails, eyes, 
 and other delicate morceaux of a poor unfortunate 
 horse, whose carcase would perhaps lie so near 
 the side of the road, that unless passengers were 
 to windward, they ran no little risk, from the in- 
 fectious vapours that assailed their olfactory 
 nerves. A part of the common at the back of 
 the town is a perfect Golgotha; where piles of 
 horses' bones, serve the negro-washerwomen to 
 place their tubs on. 
 
 Such neglect on the part of the municipal 
 officers, respecting these nuisances, would be 
 unpardonable in any populous town ; but how 
 culpable must it be in a large city, like Charles- 
 ton, whose local situation is unavoidably un- 
 wholesome. Every year increases the fatal ex- 
 perience of its inhabitants ; and yet they neglect 
 the only remedies which are acknowledged to be 
 effectual, viz. a clean tozvn and a pure air. These 
 might be obtained, if not wholly, at least in part; 
 by paving the streets ; cleansing and enlarging the 
 common sewers ; filling up hogs ; ditches, and pools 
 of stagnant filth with earth; cutting down. the 
 
 vol. n. B B 
 
370 PUBUC BUILDINGS. 
 
 poisonous trees, which line the streets,, and plant- 
 ing others, possessed of more wholesome proper- 
 tics ; draining the useless marshes in the neigh- 
 bourhood,, and confining the tide within certain 
 hounds ; adopting useful regulations fpr the pre- 
 tention of disease, and maintaining the streets 
 and habitations in a constant state of cleanliness. 
 The inhabitants are rich enough to carry into 
 execution these improvements, nor would their 
 time and money be spent in vain ; for, as the town 
 increased in healthiness, so it would increase in 
 population, ivcallh, and splendour, and rival, in 
 trade and commerce, the richest cities of the 
 north. 
 
 The principal public buildings, besides those 
 which I have already enumerated, are the ex- 
 change, a large respectable building situated inthe 
 East Bay, opposite Broad-street; a poor-house ; 
 a college, or rather grammar-school ; a theatre ; 
 and an orphan house. This latter building is 
 worthy of the city of Charleston. It is built at 
 the back of the town, on the site of an old forti- 
 fication, which, in the American war, proved the 
 chief defence of the town when besieged bv Sir 
 Henry Clinton. The house is an extensive and 
 commodious building of brick, and was erected 
 in 1792. The establishment resembles our asy- 
 lum for female orphans, except that it is not con- 
 fined to girls only. It contains about 150 chil- 
 dren of both sexes, and the annual expense for 
 
THE 0I1PHAN HOUSE. 
 
 371 
 
 provision, clothing, firewood, &c. is about 14,000 
 dollars, which is defrayed by the legislature of 
 the state of South Carolina. Since its institution, 
 upwards of J, 700 boys and girls have been re- 
 ceived into the house. The boys are supported 
 and educated to the age of fourteen, and are 
 taught reading, writing, and arithmetic : the 
 girls are supported and educated until twelve 
 years of age, and are taught the same, besides 
 sewing and spinning. They are then bound out 
 to some respectable citizen for a term of service, 
 and distributed into nine classes; one of which 
 is assigned to each commissioner of the orphan - 
 house, who visits them occasionally, and sees that 
 proper attention is paid to them by the persons to 
 whom they are indented. The girls jo£ this insti- 
 tution spin and card as much cotton, ( which is 
 given to the institution by charitable persons) as 
 supplies both the boys and girls with summer 
 clothes. On every Sunday morning a suitable 
 discourse is read to the children, by one of the 
 commisssoners in rotation, at which time they 
 repeat their catechism; and* in the afternoon of 
 that day, divine service is performed by some one 
 of the ministers of the gospel from the city or 
 parts adjacent, in a chapel erected adjoining the 
 orphan-house, which is also open to the inhabi- 
 tants. As there is no established form of worship 
 in the United States, the episcopal, presbyterian, 
 and independent ministers of Charleston per- 
 il b2 
 
372 THE THEATRE. 
 
 form service alternately, in the form of their re* 
 spective persuasions. It was intended to have 
 appointed a regular minister ; hut there was such 
 a difference of opinion as to what sect he should 
 be chosen from, that the subject was dropped. 
 Baptists and Methodists, <&c. are, I believe, ex- 
 cluded from performing service in the orphan- 
 house chapel. I attended one Sunday, and heard 
 Dr. Buist, the presbyterian minister. The chapel 
 is small, and was crowded with people : it put 
 me in mind of the Asylum, or Magdalen, in every 
 thing, except paying for admittance, which is 
 dispensed with at Charleston. 
 
 The theatre is a plain brick building, situated 
 at the top of Broad-street. It is about the size 
 of our Circus, but not so handsomely fitted up. 
 The establishment seems to be at present upon a 
 very indifferent footing, particularly since the 
 embargo, which, in the course of a month, re- 
 duced the performers to half pay. The present 
 manager is a Mr. Placide, who formerly exhibited 
 his nimble capers at Sadler's Wells. He married 
 one of the daughters of Mrs. Wrighten, origi- 
 nally a favourite singer at Vauxhall. She went 
 to America, with many others of our theatrical 
 heroes and heroines, and, like several of them, 
 found an untimely grave at Charleston. Mr. 
 Hatton, of the Haymarket theatre, was engaged 
 by the Charleston manager, and arrived in that 
 city early in 1807, In the course of the summer 
 
THE THEATRE. 
 
 373 
 
 he sang at the Vauxhall gardens, and in a few 
 weeks fell a victim to the yellow fever. Mrs. 
 Hatton had a benefit afterwards at the theatre, 
 and returned home the following spring. Among 
 the female performers, Mrs. Woodham is consi- 
 dered in every respect as the best. She possesses 
 youth, beauty, and talents, attractions which never 
 fail to captivate an audience, and consequently 
 she is a great favourite with the Charlestonians. 
 Her husband died while L was in Charleston; 
 he was then a performer in the orchestra, but 
 had originally made his appearance on the stage* 
 Mr. Sully is a most excellent comic actor, and 
 trampoline performer. A young gentleman of 
 considerable property, and respectable family, is 
 married to one of his sisters, who was also a pep* 
 former on the stage. 
 
 Mr. Cooper generally performs at the Char- 
 leston theatre every summer, and never fails to 
 draw crowded houses, even in the most sultry 
 weather. He dashes about in a curricle, and 
 after remaining about a fortnight in the 
 city, he returns to the northward, with reple- 
 nished pockets, if they are not previously emptied 
 by extravagance. A good benefit is reckoned 
 to produce about eight hundred dollars. One 
 side of the theatre is in the rules of the gaol, 
 which is a very convenient circumstance for the 
 ladies of easy virtue, and others, who are confined 
 in durance vile. I expected to find the Charles- 
 
374 THE THEATRE. 
 
 ton stage well supplied with soofij negroes, who 
 would have performed the African and Savage 
 characters in the dramatic pieces, to the life ; in- 
 stead of which, the delusion was even worse than 
 on our own stage; for po far from employing 
 real negroes, the performers would not even con- 
 descend to blacken their faces, or dress in any 
 manner resembling an African. This I after- 
 wards learnt was occasioned by motives of policy, 
 lest the negroes in Charleston should conceive^ 
 from being represented on the stage, and having 
 their colour,, dress, manners, and customs imitated 
 by the white people, that they were very impor- 
 tant personages; and might take improper li- 
 berties in consequence of it. For. this reason 
 also, Othello, and other plays, where a black man 
 js the hero of the piece, are not allowed to be 
 performed, nor are any of the negroes, or people 
 of colour permitted to visit the theatre. During 
 my stay in Charleston, the " Travellers" was 
 performed for Mrs. Plaeide's benefit ; the lastact 
 was converted wholly into an American scene, and 
 the allusions and claptraps transferred from an 
 English Admiral to an American Commodore, 
 In this manner most of our dramatic pieces are 
 obliged to be pruned of all their luxuriant com- 
 pliments to John Bull, before they can be ren- 
 dered palatable to vVmerican republicans. Some 
 few, however, inadvertently escape the pruning- 
 knife of the manager; and I was not a little 
 
VAUXHALL. 375 
 
 amused sometimes to hear the praises of my 
 country warmly applauded in the theatre, while 
 whole coffee-houses of politicians would be up 
 in arms at the bare mention of its name. 
 
 The garden, dignified by the name of Vaux- 
 hall, is also under the direction of Mr. Placide. 
 It is situated in Broad- street, a short distance 
 from the theatre, surrounded \Sy a brick wall; 
 but possesses no decoration worthy of notice, ft 
 is not to be compared even with the common tea- 
 gardens in the vicinity of London. There are 
 some warm and cold baths on one side, for the 
 accommodation of the inhabitants. In the sum- 
 mer, vocal and instrumental concerts are per- 
 formed here, and some of the singers from the 
 theatre are' engaged for the season. The situa- 
 tion and climate of Charleston are, however, by 
 no means adapted for entertainments al fresco. 
 The heavy dews and vapours which arise from 
 the swamps and marshes in its neighbourhood, 
 after a hot day, are highly injurious to the con- 
 stitution, particularly while it is inflamed by the 
 wine and spirituous liquors which are drank in 
 the garden. It is, also, the period of the sickly 
 season when the garden is opened for public 
 amusement, and the death of many performers 
 and visitors, may be ascribed to the entertain- 
 ments given at that place, 
 
 There are four or five hotels and coffee-houses 
 in Charleston; but, except the planter's hotel, in 
 
376 ANECDOTE OF MRS. S— . 
 
 Meeting-street, there is not one superior to an 
 English public house. The accommodations at 
 the planter's hotel, are respectable, and the price 
 about twelve dollars a week. There are several 
 private boarding houses, from seven to fourteen 
 dollars per week, according to their respectabi- 
 lity. A curious anecdote is related of a lady 
 who keeps the best boarding house in the city. 
 Soon after she became a widow, an old Scotch 
 gentleman, a merchant of Charleston paid his 
 addresses to her, and solicited her hand in mar- 
 riage. The courtship proceeded for a decent 
 length of time, in order that it might not be said 
 she wished to marry before her first " dear man" 
 was cold in his grave. She then very willingly 
 consented to throw off her weeds, and put on the 
 bridal dress. But whether the old gentleman re- 
 pented of his hasty love, or had some private 
 reason for declining the mariage, I know not: 
 he, however, put off the nuptial ceremony from 
 time to time, until his fair inamorato became im- 
 patient, and demanded the fulfilment of his pro. 
 mise, which it seems, the old gentleman had un- 
 luckily given. He was now under the necessity 
 of coming to an eclaircissement, and positively 
 refused to. marry her, giving as a reason, that he 
 understood she was rather too fond of the bottle. 
 This false and scandalous accusation highly in- 
 censed the Jady ; and finding that he was going 
 to reside in England, she disposed of her house 
 
ANECDOTE OF MRS. S . 377 
 
 and property, and followed him to London, where 
 sae commenced an action against him for breach 
 of promise, and defamation. The damages were 
 laid at several thousand pounds, and eminent 
 counsel were retained for the cause. The old 
 gentleman finding himself so closely pressed, and 
 likely to be a great loser by his unfortunate court- 
 ship, would have willingly married her, rather 
 than have to pay such enormous damages. This 
 would very likely have taken place, for the 
 lady herself was by no means hard-hearted, 
 and might perhaps have taken the old spark to 
 her bed, had not a keen relation of his, who pro- 
 bably was looking forward to a snug little legacy, 
 said to him: <e Why, mon, would you disgrace 
 
 the blood of the M'Cl s %" and offered to 
 
 settle the dispute with the spirited widow. 
 Matters were accordingly adjusted in an amicable 
 manner : the lady withdrew her action, and the 
 old gentleman paid her 700/. and all expenses. 
 She afterwards returned to Charleston, and 
 opened a very handsome boarding house, which 
 is resorted to by all the fashionable strangers, 
 who arrive in the city. The old gentleman has 
 visited Charleston several times since, to re- 
 cover his outstanding debts and property, and 
 I dare say never passes her house, without a 
 sigh for the loss of both wife and cash. 
 
 Charlestoo contains a handsome and commo- 
 dious market-place, extending from Meeting- 
 
s " MARKET- -PLACE. 
 
 street to the waiter side, which is as well supplied 
 with provisions as the country will permit. Com> 
 pared, however, with the markets of the northern 
 towns, the supply is very inferior both in quality 
 and quantity. The beef, mutton, veal, and pork, of 
 south Carolina, are seldom met with in perfection; 
 and the hot weather renders it impossible to keep 
 the meat many hours after it is killed. Large sup- 
 plies of corned beef, and pork, are brought from 
 the northern states. Though the rivers abound 
 with a great variety of fish, yet very -few are 
 brought to market. Oysters, however, are abun- 
 dant, and are cried about the streets by the ne- 
 groes. They are generally shelled, put iuto small 
 pails, which the negroes carry on their heads, 
 and sold by the measure: the price is about Sd 
 per quart. Vegetables have been cultivated of 
 late years, with great success, and there is a toler- 
 able supply in the market. The long potatoe, is 
 • great favourite with the Carolinians. There 
 are two kinds, which differ in nothing but the 
 colour; the one being red, and the other of a 
 sandy colour. When boiled, they eat sweet, and 
 mealy, resembling very much a boiled chesnut. 
 Apples, pears, and other fruit are very scarce., 
 being only brought occasionally from the north- 
 ern states. In summer, Charleston is tolerably 
 well supplied with the fruits peculiar to southern 
 climates; and large quantities of pine apples, &c. 
 are brought from the West Indies. Wild ducks, 
 
MARKET PRODUCTIONS. 379 
 
 geese, turkics, and other fowl, are brought to 
 market by the country people, though not in 
 very great abundance. 
 
 The expense of living at Charleston may be 
 estimated from the following table of commo- 
 dities, the prices of which are in sterling money. 
 Bread about 3d. per lb., butter Id , cheese 6d., 
 beef bd > mutton 6d.,veal Sd., oysters Sd. per quart, 
 Hyson tea 6s. per lb., coffee Is. 6d., Havannah 
 sugar 6d., Louisiana sugar 6^d., loaf sugar Is., 
 brandy 7s. per gallon, Jamaica rum 7s., New 
 England rum 3s. 6d., Hollands 7s., Malaga wine, 
 ,5s. 10d., Claret \2s. per dozen, spermaceti oil 
 5s. 3d. per gallon, lamp oil 3s., Florence oil 3s. 
 per pint. Bottled porter, from London, 2s. 3d. 
 per bottle. House rent from 301. to 700/. per 
 annum, boarding at taverns and private houses 
 from a guinea and half to three guineas per 
 week, washing 3s. 6d. per dozen pieces, a coat 
 from 57. 10s. to 8/., other apparel in proportion ; 
 hair cutting 3s. Gd., hire of a horse for a couple 
 of hours 5s., for the afternoon 10s., hire of a gig 
 J 5s. Though liquor and many other articles are 
 reasonable when purchased in any quantity, yet 
 they are retailed at the taverns, and small spirits- 
 shops at an exhorbitant rate. Hence a glass of 
 brandy, or rum and water is never sold for less 
 than half a dollar; and every thing else in pro- 
 portion. 
 
380 
 
 POPULATION OF CHARLESTON. 
 
 CHAPTER XXXVI. 
 
 Population of Charleston — Society — The Pal- 
 ters — Extravagance and Dissipation— Money 
 Lenders — Long Credit — Character of the Peo- 
 ple — Parade and Ostentation — Charleston 
 Races — Jockey Club — Race Course — Balls and- 
 Concerts — Amusements of the People — Rifle 
 Shooting — Duelling — Anecdote of Marshal 
 Turenne — A Bloodless Duel — Sidlivon's Island 
 '—Outrages at Charleston — Riots among the 
 Sailors — Consequences of the Embargo — Ame- 
 rican Seamen enter the British Service. 
 
 The present population of Charleston is 
 reckoned about 28,000; of this number, not more 
 than 7,000 are whites, the rest are negroes and 
 people of colour, the majority of whom are slaves. 
 The following statement will exhibit the pro- 
 gressive increase of population, in the state of 
 South Carolina, since its settlement in 1670. 
 
 Years. 
 
 White People 
 
 Blacks and Mulattos 
 
 Total. 
 
 1670 
 
 A small colony sent over 
 
 
 
 under Governor Sayle. 
 
 
 
 1700 
 
 5,500 
 
 
 5,500 
 
 1721 
 
 14,000 
 
 
 
 14,000 
 
 1723 
 
 14,000 
 
 18,000 
 
 32,000 
 
 1734 
 
 7,333 
 
 22,000 
 
 29,333 
 
 1765 
 
 40,000 
 
 90,000 
 
 130,000 
 
 1792 
 
 130,178 
 
 108,895 
 
 249,073 
 
 1800 
 
 196,255 
 
 149,336 
 
 345,591 
 
 1808 
 
 f 250,000 
 
 200,000 
 
 450,000 
 
SOCIETY OF CHARLESTON. 381 
 
 Charleston has been described as the seat of 
 hospitality, elegance, and gaiety. Whatever it 
 may boast of the former, it is certain there was 
 very little of the latter on my arrival in that city, 
 though it was the season for amusements. But 
 the fatal fever which had prevailed the preceding 
 autumn, and carried off great numbers of the 
 people, added to the general stagnation of trade, 
 occasioned by the embargo, seemed to have para- 
 lyzed the energies, and damped the spirits of the 
 inhabitants, and prevented them from partaking 
 of those entertainments and diversions to which 
 they were accustomed at that season of the year. 
 
 Genteel societv in Charleston is confined to 
 the planters, principal merchants, public officers, 
 divines, lawyers, and physicians. 
 
 The planters are generally considered as the 
 wealthiest people in the state. This may be true 
 with respect to their landed-property and slaves; 
 but they are not the most monied people, for, 
 except upon their annual crops, of rice and cot- 
 ton, which produce various incomes, from 6,000 
 to 50,000 dollars, they seldom can command a 
 dollar in cash, and are, besides, continually in 
 debt. The long credit which merchants and 
 traders, throughout Charleston, are obliged to 
 give the planters, and other people of property in 
 the state, is the subject of universal complaint 
 among the former; and whatever credit the Caro- 
 linians may desarve for their "unaffected ho*- 
 
882 THE PLANTERS. 
 
 pitality, affability^ ease of manners, and address/' 
 so flatteringly mentioned in every edition of 
 Morse's Geography, yet the payment of their 
 debts can never be reckoned among their virtues, 
 
 When they receive money in advance, for their 
 crops of cotton or rice, it is immediately squan- 
 dered away in the luxuries of fashion, good eat- 
 ing and drinking, or an excursion to the north- 
 ern states, where, after dashing about for a month 
 or two with tandems, curricles, Hvery servants, 
 and outriders, they frequently return home in the 
 stage coach, with scarcely dollars enough in their 
 pocket to pay their expenses on the road. If their 
 creditors often or a dozen years standing, become 
 very clamorous, a small sum is perhaps paid them 
 in part, unless the law interferes, and compels 
 them to pay the whole debt, and as much for 
 costs. Thus the planter proceeds in his career of 
 extravagance, which, in the midst of riches, ren- 
 ders him continually poor. With an estate worth 
 500,000 dollars, he has seldom a dollar in his 
 pocket, but what is borrowed uj on an antic i- 
 pated crop : hence it may be truly said, that he 
 lives only from hand to mouth. 
 
 In the town of Charleston, where they for the 
 most part have handsome houses, they live, for the 
 time being, like princes : and those strangers who 
 visit the city at that period, and have the means 
 of being introduced at their houses, are sure to 
 meet a hearty welcome. Every article that the 
 
EXTRAVAGANCE AND DISSIPATION. 383 
 
 market can supply is to be found at their festive 
 board. The wine flows in abundance, and no- 
 thing affords them greater satisfaction, than to 
 see their guests drop gradually under the table 
 after dinner. Hospitality is indeed their charac- 
 teristic as long as the cash lasts, but when that 
 is gone, they retire to their plantations. There 
 they are obliged to dispense with the luxuries, 
 and often with the comforts which they enjoyed 
 in town. Every thing is made subservient to the 
 cultivation of cotton and rice, for the next year's 
 round of dissipation. With hundreds of slaves 
 about them, and cattle of various kinds, they are 
 often without butter, cheese, and even milk, for 
 many weeks. Fodder, is frequently so scarce, 
 that the cows, horses, &c. look half starved, and 
 are driven into the pine barrens, and woods, to 
 pick up a few mouthfulls of rank grass. The 
 habitations of many of the planters, are also in a 
 dilapidated state, and destitute of the comforts 
 and conveniences of domestic life. As to their 
 negro-huts, they frequently defy all description. 
 
 This mode of living among the planters, of 
 which the brilliant side only is exposed to pub- 
 lic view, is followed, more or less, by most of the 
 gentry in Charleston, and 'has led strangers to 
 give them the character of a free, affable, and ge- 
 nerous people. Others, however, who have had 
 better opportunities of judging of their real cha- 
 racter, charge them with ostentation, and a 
 
384* EXTRAVAGANCE AND DISSIPATION. 
 
 haughty, supercilious behaviour. These oppo- 
 site qualities, no doubt, attach individually to 
 many of the inhabitants, and most perhaps to the 
 planters, who, it is natural to suppose, consider 
 themselves in a more elevated and independent 
 situation than the merchants who dispose of their 
 produce, or the traders who furnish them with 
 the necessaries of life. Hence they may be some- 
 what tinctured with that pride and haughtiness 
 with which they are charged. At the same time, 
 their free and extravagant style of living, their 
 open and friendly reception of strangers and visi- 
 tors at their table, have no doubt won the hearts 
 of those who have partaken of their good cheer, 
 and established that excellent character, which 
 is said to be predominant among them. 
 
 It generally happens, that money easily obtained 
 is as freely parted with ; and this may in some mea- 
 sure account for the extravagance of the southern 
 planter. Unlike the farmer and merchant of the 
 northern states, who are, themselves, indefatiga- 
 bly employed from morning to night, the Caroli- 
 linian lolls at his ease under the shady piazza be- 
 fore his house, smoking cigars and drinking scm- 
 goree ; while his numerous slaves and overseers 
 are cultivating a rice swamp, or cotton field, with 
 the sweat of their brow ; the produce of which is 
 to furnish their luxurious master witli the means 
 of figuring away for a few mouths in the city, or 
 an excursion to the northward. Property thus 
 
LONG CREDIT. 385 
 
 easily acquired is as readily squandered away^ 
 and the Carolinian regarding only the present 
 moment for the enjoyment of his pleasures, runs 
 into extravagance and debt, 
 
 Where there are numerous borrowers, there 
 will always be plenty of lenders; and many of 
 the more shrewd, and saving, monied people of 
 Charleston, are ever ready to accommodate the 
 rich, the gay, and the extravagant, with loans 
 upon good security. Even some of the divines 
 in that city are not ashamed to take an active 
 part in money-lending ; and while they are 
 preaching to their creditors the necessity of lay- 
 ing up a store in heaven, <c where neither moth 
 nor rust doth corrupt/' they are busily employed 
 in laying up for themselves a store of the good 
 things of this world. How seldom it is, that pre- 
 cept and example are united in the same person. 
 
 The merchants, traders, and shopkeepers of 
 Charleston are obliged to lay a profit, fre-^ 
 quently of 150 or 200 per cent, and more upon 
 their goods, for the long credit which the gentry 
 are accustomed to take. Where they meet with 
 good payments, they seldom fail to realize an in- 
 dependent fortune, for they sell nothing under 
 50 per cent., even for ready money ; but it often 
 happens, that after they retire from business, they 
 have a number of debts which they find very 
 difficult to collect in. 1 met with several 
 Scotch gentleman at Charleston and Savannah, 
 
 \OL. II. C C 
 
386 LONG CREDIT. 
 
 who had retired from business at those places, 
 and resided in their native country, but were 
 obliged to make frequent voyages to America, to 
 recover the remainder of their property. This 
 is the case with most of those who have been in 
 business in the towns of the southern states ; but 
 where one succeeds, twenty are ruined. Captain 
 Turner, my fellow-passenger in the packet, told 
 me that he had debts owing to him of twenty 
 years standing, even by parents and their chil- 
 dren, whose dancing had never been paid for by 
 
 cither generation. The case of Mrs. T , 
 
 whose husband, a Scotchman, was a grocer in 
 Charleston, was particularly hard. Having 
 business at New-York, he sailed in the Rose in 
 Bloom packet for that city, and was unfortu- 
 nately lost, by the vessel upsetting in a sudden 
 gust of wind off the coast. His widow wished 
 to return, with her children, to her native coun- 
 try, and for that purpose made her unhappy case 
 known to her husband's customers, requesting 
 that they would settle their accounts, without 
 which she would be unable to return home. 
 Very few paid any attention to her request, and 
 after remaining above twelve months at Charles- 
 ton, she was obliged to leave the greatest part 
 of her property in the hands of strangers to col- 
 lect for her, and in all probability one-half will 
 never be recovered. Yet the people of Charles- 
 ton received, with open arms, the distressed emi- 
 
CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE. 387 
 
 grants from St. Domingo, whom they clothed, 
 fed, and maintained for several months ; and con- 
 tributed by concerts, balls, and plays, very libe- 
 rally to their relief. This conduct was generous 
 and praiseworthy ; and it is to be regretted, that 
 it was afterwards so slightly appreciated by many 
 of the emigrants. These men, like some of their 
 European brethren that fled for refuge to Eng- 
 land, had the horrible ingratitude to debauch 
 the wives and daughters of their benefactors; 
 and to introduce a variety of vices among the 
 rising generation, who, one day or other, will 
 have reason to curse the negligent humanity of 
 their fathers. 
 
 If such was the hospitality and benevolence 
 of i lie Carolinians towards the distressed French- 
 men, how shall we reconcile it with their conduct 
 to an unfortunate widow and her children, who 
 only asked for their own property? T leave this 
 difficult question to be decided by Dr. Jedidiah 
 Morse, and others, who will possibly, in some 
 future edition of their works allow, that the 
 " unaffected hospitality, affability, case of man- 
 ners, and address" of the Carolinians, have, of late 
 years, somewhat degenerated into vain parade and 
 ceremonious ostentation . 
 
 Notwithstanding the vast sums of money la- 
 vished away by the planters and gentry of South 
 Carolina, their equipages do not equal those of 
 the northern states. They have certainly a 
 ccS 
 
388 CHARLESTON RACES. 
 
 greater number of slaves to attend them, but 
 their coaches, carriages, and chaises, are mostly 
 old and shabby. They have some excellent horses; 
 but in general they are badly broke in, and will 
 start and fly at almost every object they meet, 
 Horse- racing is a favourite amusement with the 
 Carolinians, though more discountenanced than 
 formerly, many families having suffered greatly 
 by the gambling bets made at the races. The 
 Charleston races were held during my stay in 
 that city. They commenced on Wednesday the 
 17th of February, and finished on the Saturday 
 following. Theirs/ day, seven horses ran for a 
 purse of 60U dollars. The second day, five for 
 4C0 dollars. The third day, three for 300 dol- 
 lars ; and the last day, a handicap purse of about 
 5C0 dollars, was run for by all the horses that 
 were distanced the preceding days The race- 
 course is about a mile and half without the city, 
 on a fine level piece of ground, a full mile in cir- 
 cumference. Four- mile heats are run for, by 
 American-raised horses, and generally performed 
 in eight minutes, though, on the second day of 
 the races this year, one of the heats was performed 
 in seven minutes. 
 
 The races are under the direction of a jockey- 
 club, fromw!:ose fund the purses which are run 
 for are prepared. The second day of the races 
 was uncommonly hot for the mouth of February. 
 The thermometer stood at 82° in the shade, aud 
 
THE RACE-COURSE. 389 
 
 the number of horses and vehicles of every de- 
 scription, passing to and from the race-ground, 
 made the dust and sand fly about in clouds. The 
 admittance to the race-course was half a dollar 
 for horses, and a dollar for carriages. There was 
 not so large a concourse of people on the race- 
 ground as I expected to see, and I was told that 
 the races were very thinly attended. From the 
 dullness of the times, the planters were short of 
 cash, and many would not come into town. The 
 purses were therefore poor, and few bets were 
 made. But the preceding year, a purse of 1,000 
 dollars was run for, and two or three young ladies 
 entered into the spirit of horse- racing with as 
 much eagerness as the men. They sent their 
 own horses to run, and betted with each other to 
 a considerable amount. 
 
 Several large booths were fitted up at one end 
 of the race ground, and handsome cold eolations 
 of meat, poultry, and salads, were laid out on 
 long tables for the accommodation of those who 
 chose to dine there after the races. The day I 
 was there, there were only two four-mile heats, 
 and they were over before two o'clock. The 
 gentry then returned to town, and spentthe day 
 in dinner parties, and the evening in balls and 
 concerts. The middling and lower classes of the 
 people remained on the ground, and diverted 
 themselves with some hack races, after which 
 they repaired to the booths, and finished the day 
 
890 AMUSEMENTS OF THE PEOPLE. 
 
 in humble imitation of their superiors. A num- 
 ber of sailors enjoyed themselves with their girls, 
 in the smaller booths ; and the negroes, with their 
 dingy misses, came in for a share of the fun. At 
 night they all came reeling into town, well 
 charged with wine, rum-punch, gin sling, and 
 aangoree. 
 
 The period of the races, though short, was the 
 only time that Charleston appeared to be en- 
 livened during my residence there. There were 
 no public entertainments, except occasional plays, 
 and a concert once a fortnight, and they were so 
 slightly attended, that the performers at the 
 theatre were put on half-pay, and the concerts 
 were with difficulty maintained. Private parties 
 were also greatly abridged, and the town seemed 
 to be enveloped in gloomy despondence. This 
 was the natural effect of the stagnation of trade 
 created by the embargo, which compelled the 
 planters to sell their produce for less than one- 
 half the usual price; and it was not always they 
 could find purchasers, even on those conditions ; 
 as none, except a few speculating individuals 
 from New-York and Boston, would lay out their 
 money in cotton and rice, which frequently be- 
 came a mere drug in the merchants' stores. 
 
 Hunting, shooting, fishing, and riding, are more 
 or less the diversions of the Carolinians through- 
 out the state. They are generally excellent shots, 
 and a good rifleman will be sure of a deer, or wild 
 
AMUSEMENTS OF THE PEOrLE. 391 
 
 turkey, at 150 yards. A huntsman with a smooth- 
 barrelled gun, will kill a deer at his utmost speed, 
 at the distance of near 100 yards. In the lower 
 country, deer-hunting is the favourite amusement 
 of the country gentlemen. For this purpose they 
 associate in hunting clubs once a fortnight or 
 month, besides their] own private spdrt. The 
 bays and woods afford a great plenty of this game ; 
 and when the deer are rouzed by the hounds, they 
 are either shot down immediately, by the gentle- 
 men who are stationed on either side the bays ; 
 or they meet their fate at the different stands, by 
 which the deer direct their course, and to which 
 the huntsmen had previously repaired. Double- 
 barrelled guns are mostly used in these cases, 
 loaded with buck shot, and sometimes with single 
 ball ; and so excellent is the skill of many per- 
 sons, accustomed to this mode of hunting, that a 
 deer has been often killed by each barrel of the 
 gun, as soon as they could be successively dis- 
 charged. Sometimes the deer are seen in flocks 
 of eight or ten in number; and as many as four 
 or five have been killed in a single hunting of a 
 few hours. The country gentlemen do not enter 
 much into the sport of fowling, Carolinians gene- 
 rally preferring riding, to walking; and when 
 game of this kind is wanted for family use, they 
 for the most part send out a servant to pro- 
 cure it. 
 
 In the upper part of the state, the young men 
 
3D2 RIFLE SHOOTING. 
 
 are particularly expert at rifle-rshooting ; and ar- 
 ticles instead of being put up at vendue, are often 
 shot for, with rifles, at a small price each shot, 
 which is a more useful and honourable mode, 
 than the practice of raffling adopted in the lower 
 country. Tbis method of disposing of goods, is 
 worthy of imitation in England, and would soon 
 render the people excellent marksmen. Although 
 a riding master is little known in Carolina, yet 
 the people are generally good horsemen, and 
 make their way through thick woods, with sur- 
 prizing dispatch, This is effected by allowing 
 boys at fie age of seven or eight years to com- 
 mence riding, either to school or elsewhere; and 
 soon after, they are allowed the use of a gun, 
 from which they in a few years become expert 
 huntsmen. 
 
 The Carolinians are all partial to riding, and 
 even in Charleston few ladies venture to walk. 
 They are seldom seen out of doors, except in 
 their coach or chaise. This renders the streets of 
 that city very gloomy to a stranger who has been 
 used to the Bond-street of London, the Rue St. 
 Honor i of Paris, or the Broadway of New York, 
 where so many lovely forms continually fleet be- 
 fore his eye. Many of the ladies of Charleston 
 are, however, not inferior in beauty and accom- 
 plishments, to the ladies of the Northern States, 
 though they labour under the disadvantage of an 
 unhealthy climate. If the younger part of so- 
 
DUELLING. 393 
 
 ciety have failiugs different from others, they may 
 be attributed to their unavoidable intercourse -with 
 the slaves, by whose milk they are frequently 
 nourished, and in the midst of whom, they are 
 generally educated. Parents are often too indul- 
 gent, and will frequently suffer their children to 
 tyrannize over the young slaves, one or two of 
 whom are usually appropriated to the use of each 
 of the planter's children, and become their pro- 
 perty. Hence they are nurtured in the strongest 
 prejudices against the blacks, whom they are 
 taught to look upon as beings almost without a 
 soul, and whom they sometimes treat with un 
 pardonable severity. 
 
 From having their early passions and propen- 
 sities so much indulged, the young Carolinians 
 are too apt to acquire a rash, fiery, and impe- 
 tuous disposition, which renders them incapable 
 of comprehending Shakspeare's admirable defini- 
 tion of honour : 
 
 " Not to be captious, not unjustly fight -, 
 
 " 'Tis to confess what's wrong, and do what's right." 
 
 Private quarrels frequently disgrace the public 
 prints ; challenges are sent ; and if refused, the 
 parties are posted as " prevaricating poltroons and 
 cozvards." A few months before I arrived, a 
 duel took place between two young gentlemen of 
 respectable families, which terminated in the 
 death of both. There is, perhaps, no country in 
 
394 ANECDOTE OF MARSHAL TURENNE. 
 
 the world, where duels are so frequent as in the 
 United States. During my short stay of six 
 months in that country, there were upwards of 
 fourteen fought which came to my knowledge ; 
 and not one of them in which the parties were 
 not either killed or wounded. Since my depar- 
 ture, I heard of a duel having been fought with 
 rifles at only seven paces distance, in which two 
 young men, whose families were of the highest 
 respectability, were both Jailed on the spot. Such 
 acts of desperation would lead one to suspect 
 that the Americans were a blood-thirsty people, 
 for they might satisfy their false honour at a 
 greater distance from each other, and with less 
 determinate marks of revenge. Duels are fre- 
 quent, and disgraceful enough in England ; but 
 they are far exceeded ira the United States, where 
 young men are in the habit of training themselves 
 up as duellists. How much is it to be regretted 
 that the admirable example of Marshal Turenne, 
 is not followed by those who conceive themselves 
 injured. The man who lights a duel is a coward, 
 compared with him who braves the false opinion 
 of the world. 
 
 It is well known of Marshal Turenne, that his 
 true heroism was only to be equalled by his solid 
 and manly piety; equally remote upon the one 
 hand from the superstition of his own age, and 
 upon the other from the indifference of ours. In 
 a court of gallantry, and in times when the point 
 
ANECDOTE OF MARSHAL TURENNE. 395 
 
 of honour (falsely so called J was preserved in its 
 full extravagance, the Marshal was never known 
 either to fight a duel, or to be engaged in an in- 
 trigue. The grace, the dignity, with which he 
 once released himself from an embarrassment of 
 this nature, will at once give an exact idea of 
 what he was, and be a sufficient answer to the 
 favourite question of the defenders of duelling, 
 How is a challenge to be refused? 
 
 A young officer of noble family, and (in de- 
 spite of what may be thought of the part of his 
 conduct which follows) of real worth, imagined 
 himself to have received an insult from the Mar- 
 shal, and demanded satisfacf ion in the usual forms. 
 The Marshal made no reply to his challenge ; 
 the officer repeated it several times, but the 
 Marshal still maintained the same silence. Irri- 
 tated at this apparent contempt, the officer re- 
 solved to compel him to the acceptance of this 
 invitation : for this purpose he watched him 
 upon his walks, and at length meeting him in the 
 public streets, accompanied by two other general 
 officers, he hurried towards him, and to the 
 astonishment, and even terror of all who saw him, 
 spat in the Marshal's face. It is impossible io 
 form a conception of this insult, when we reflect 
 that, the object of it was, the great Turciuie, 
 a Marshal of France, and one of the gread^t 
 generals which Europe had produced. Tie com- 
 panions of the Marshal started back in atmzc- 
 
396 ANECDOTE. OF MARSHAL TURENNE. 
 
 merit; the Marshal, his countenance glowing 
 from a sense of the indignity, seized the hilt of 
 his sword, and had already half unsheathed it, 
 when, to the astonishment of the spectators, he 
 suddenly returned it into the scabbard f and tak- 
 ing his handkerchief from his pocket, " Young 
 man/' said he, " could I wipe your blood from 
 my conscience, with as much ease as I can your 
 spittle from my face, I would take your life on the 
 spot. Go, Sir /" 
 
 Saying this, the Marshal retired in all the ma- 
 jesty of triumphant virtue. The young officer 
 was so much struck, as well with his manner as 
 his virtue, that he did not cease till he obtained 
 the pardon of the Marshal. Turenne afterwards 
 became his patron, and was rewarded by the sin- 
 cere and faithful attachment of the officer. 
 
 This remarkable instance of forbearance, after 
 such an unpardonable insult, ought to teach 
 others, who are placed in similar circumstances, 
 that there is more magnanimity in subduing 
 their anger,, and resisting the dictates of false 
 honour, than in firing a bullet through the body 
 of their antagonist, or receiving one in their 
 own. There is a curious anecdote related of 
 two Gascons, who settled an affair of honour in 
 a very handsome way, without drawing a sword 
 or pulling a trigger. I would recommend a 
 similar process to all our ton chtj gentry, whoso 
 
A BLOODLESS DUEL. ' 397 
 
 honour, like fulminating powder, prcduces a vio- 
 lent explosion at the slightest rub. 
 
 Two officers of the French army, who were 
 also natives of Gascony, disputing one day upon 
 some common topic, one of them unhandsomely 
 contradicted the other, by saying, " that's not 
 true; I know the whole affair much better/' 
 The assertor of the fact instantly said, " you are 
 very bold, Sir, to dare to give me the lie: if I 
 was a little nearer to you, I would box your ears 
 to teach you better manners; and you may con- 
 sider the blow as afready given." Their brother 
 officers present were alarmed for the conse- 
 quence ; but the other Gascon, assuming a serious 
 air, rejoined, "And I, Sir, to punish you for your 
 insolence, now run you through the body ; so 
 consider yourself dead." The singularity of the 
 repartee pleased the whole company, and natu- 
 rally produced an immediate reconciliation. 
 
 The amusements in Charleston during the 
 hot months of the year are very few. The Vaux- 
 hall garden is the only public place of recreation, 
 and that by no means safe after a sultry day. 
 For two or three months during the sickly season, 
 the genteel people shut themselves up in their 
 houses, or retire to Sullivan's Island, situate in 
 the harbour about six miles below the city. On 
 this island a settlement has been effected called 
 Moultrie ville, after Major-general William Moul- 
 trie, who from a fort on the island in 1716 frua- 
 
298 sullivan's island. 
 
 trated the attempt of a British naval armament, 
 under the command of Sir Peter Parker. Its 
 commencement was about the year 1791, where 
 the legislative passed an act, permitting people to 
 build there on half acre lots; subject to the con- 
 dition of their being removed, whenever demand- 
 ed, by the governor or commander-in-chief. Al- 
 most every part of the island, which is nearly 
 three miles long, is now occupied, and contains 
 upwards of two hundred dwelling houses, be- 
 sides kitchens and out offices. This place is 
 little resorted to during the winter and spring; 
 but in the summer and autumn, numbers of peo- 
 ple reside there, for pleasure or health ; and 
 packet boats are plying, at all hours, between it 
 and Charleston. Along the hard beach of this 
 island, its inhabitants enjoy the amusements of 
 riding or walking; while the ocean incessantly 
 breaks its waves at their feet, and vessels pass 
 within two or three hundred yards of the shore. 
 There are a great number of Jews settled in 
 Charleston ; and they live principally in King- 
 street, where their shops are crowded together, 
 and exhibit as motley a collection of clothing 
 and wearing apparel, as are to be found i;i 
 Hounsditch or Rag-fair. They are sufficiently 
 numerous to have a synagogue; and one com- 
 pany of the volunteer militia is formed entirely 
 of Jews. They are, as is the case in most coun- 
 tries, monied people : and on their sabbaths, tin 
 
OUTRAGES AT CHARLESTON. 399 
 
 young Jewesses walk out in fine flowing dresses, 
 that would better suit the stage or ball-room 
 than the street. 
 
 I saw only one Quaker in Charleston, and 
 he is as remarkable for the singular plainness of 
 his dress as the large property which he possesses. 
 Of the traders and shopkeepers settled in Charles- 
 ton, a great number are Scotch, who gene- 
 rally acquire considerable property, by close and 
 persevering habits of industry ; after which, they 
 most commonly return to their native country. 
 There are also several Irish traders, but their 
 number is far inferior to the Scotch. 
 
 At the period when the Americans were so 
 much exasperated against Great Britain, in con- 
 sequence of the attack upon the Chesapeake fri- 
 gate, the British subjects throughout the states 
 were in an awkward predicament, and for some 
 time were under the necessity of keeping within 
 doors, until the fury of the populace was some- 
 what abated. In Charleston, the inhabitants 
 committed great excesses; and it was not merely 
 the lower order of people who were concerned 
 in them, but many, otherwise respectable, homo* 
 keepers. All the American inhabitants wore 
 pieces of crape round their arms, as mourning 
 for the sailors killed in the action ; acd ducked 
 under the pumps all who refused to comply 
 with that mark of respect far their deceased 
 
400 OUTRAGES AT CHARLESTON. 
 
 countrymen. The Scotch people, however, held 
 out firmly against their threats, and some were 
 in consequence severely handled by the mob. 
 The outrages went to such a length, that pro- 
 scription lists were made out, and not only se- 
 veral Scotchmen, but many of the American fe- 
 deralists, who viewed the business more as an 
 aggression on the part of the United States,, than 
 by England, were beset in their houses by the 
 populace, and vengeance demanded upon their 
 heads. The reign of terror commenced, and self- 
 appointed committees were deputed to wait on 
 suspected persons. One merchant and his son, 
 barricadoed themselves in their house, while the 
 rest of the family were employed in making car- 
 tridges. The populace surrounded their dwell- 
 ing ; but the gentleman and his son declared, that 
 if they attempted to force the doors, they would 
 immediately fire upon them. 
 
 This violent ferment at length subsided : but 
 the Scotchmen are of opinion, that if the Inten- 
 dant of Charleston had not been a federalist, 
 most of them would have been put to death. The 
 conduct of one of them was, however, extremely 
 reprehensible. He dressed a dog and a goat up 
 in crape, to ridicule the people. They could not 
 catch him for some time, as he kept within doors ; 
 but one morning about six o'clock they knocked 
 at his door, which being opened, they rushed in, 
 
RIOTS AMONG THE SAILORS. 401 
 
 dragged him into the street, and carried him to a 
 pump, where they ducked him so unmercifully, 
 that he took to his bed, arid died in the course 
 of the following month, it being then the com- 
 mencement of the sickly season. 
 
 While I remained in Charleston, there was 
 considerable alarm, on account of the depreda- 
 tions, which Were said to be committed by the 
 sailors at night. There were upwards of one 
 thousand in the city, who since the embargo, had 
 become very riotous, having no employ ; and 
 several were absolutely destitute of lodging and 
 food, their landlords having turned them out, 
 after their money was gone. They paraded the 
 streets several nights in large bodies, and the city 
 guard was obliged to be strengthened. Some 
 robberies were committed, and two or three 
 negroes murdered, so that it ^became dangerous 
 to be out at dark. The corporation at length 
 published a proclamation, forbidding, under pain 
 of imprisonment, any sailor to be out of his lodg- 
 ing-house after seven o'clock: thev also adver- 
 tised, that any sailor who was destitute of em- 
 ployment, might go on board the Hornet sloop, 
 and gun boats belonging to the United States, 
 where they would receive provisions, and be at 
 liberty to quit the vessel when they chose. Not 
 above sixteen accepted the offer, and several of 
 them soon returned on shore again, in conse- 
 quence of some smart floggings which they met 
 
 VOL. II. JD D 
 
402 CONSEQUENCES OF THE EMBARGO. 
 
 with on board the Hornet. In the course of a 
 week or two, the English Consul advertising that 
 British seamen might have a free passage home 
 in the British ships that were going to Europe, 
 upwards of four hundred availed themselves of 
 the offer, and sailed for England. 
 
SERVANTS AT CHARLESTON* 403 
 
 CHAR XXXVII. 
 
 Servants at Charleston — Slaves — Slave Trade 
 Slave Merchants — The Bargain Buyer — Ob- 
 servations upon the Slave Trade — The Treat- 
 ment of Africans — Refined Cruelty — People of 
 Colour and Mulattoes — Negro Characteristics 
 — Religious Fanaticism — Methodist Preachers 
 pelted in their Pulpits — Manners of the Negroes 
 -—An Anecdote of a Negro and his Wife — Their 
 Intrepid Death— — Religion — Service of the 
 Episcopal Churches in the United States — Me- 
 thodist Meetings — Marriages — Funerals — 
 Novelty of an Undertaker's Profession in 
 Charleston— Charitable Societies- — Free Ma- 
 sons. 
 
 There are no white servants in Charleston. 
 Every kind of work is performed by the negroes, 
 and people of colour. Those who are unable to 
 give 500 or 600 dollars for a slave, which is the 
 usual price of a good one, generally hire them, 
 by the month or year, of people who are in the 
 habit of keeping a number of slaves for that pur- 
 pose. Many persons obtain a handsome living 
 by letting out their slaves, for 6 to 10 dollars per 
 month. They also send them out to sell oysters, 
 
 d d 2 
 
404 SLAVES. 
 
 fruit, millinery, &c. ; or as carmen and porters, 
 The slaves who are brought up to any trade or 
 profession, are let out as journeymen, and many of 
 them are so extremely clever and expert, that they 
 are considered worth two or three thousand 
 dollars. 
 
 The slaves in Charleston, employed as domestic 
 servants, or mechanics,. are mostly those born in 
 the state ; the new negroes from Africa, being 
 generally purchased for the plantations in the 
 country. The former have more vices than the 
 latter; and where they are living under persons 
 who have only hired them, they are often lazy 
 and impertinent, and give their employers a great 
 deal of trouble. They conceive they are labour- 
 ing only for strangers, and are careless in what 
 manner they perform their work. In conse- 
 quence of the troubles in St. Domingo, a great 
 number of negroes and people of colour have 
 been brought to Charleston, by their masters 
 and mistresses. Most of them have been sold to 
 the Americans, or received their freedom. The 
 Women are distinguished from the rest, by their 
 coloured handkerchiefs tastily tied about their 
 heads, the smartness of their dress, and long, 
 flowing shawls, or muslin handkerchiefs thrown 
 carelessly over their shoulders, d la Frarifoise. 
 
 It appears by the estimate given in the preced- 
 ing chapter, that the slaves, free negroes, and 
 people of colour, are very numerous in South 
 
JTLAVE TRADE. 405 
 
 Carolina, yet are not equal to the number of white 
 inhabitants of the whole state. But it is only in 
 the low swampy parts of the country that they 
 are wanted, and there they far outnumber the 
 white population. In the city of Charleston, for 
 instance, their number amounts to 21,000, and 
 the whites only to 7,000. In the northern parts 
 of the state, very few slaves are to be found ; the 
 farmers cultivate the ground themselves, with the 
 assistance of their own families ; but towards the 
 sea coast it would be impossible for the whites to 
 cultivate the swamps and marshes, without the 
 aid of negroes. 
 
 The importation of Africans into the United 
 States ceased, by law, on the 1st January, 1808, 
 and several vessels which arrived with slaves after 
 that period, were seized, and their cargoes con- 
 demned. For the last four years, however, the 
 merchants had prepared for the abolition of the 
 slave trade, and such large importations took 
 place, that the market was completely glutted. 
 The following are the numbers imported into 
 Charleston up to the 1st January, 1808 : 
 
 1804 . . 
 
 . 5,386 
 
 1805 . . 
 
 . 6,790 
 
 1806 J . 
 
 . 11,458 
 
 1807 . . 
 
 . 15,676 
 
 39,310 
 
406 SLAVE TRADE. 
 
 When I arrived, the sales for slaves was ex* 
 tremely dull, owing to the high price which the 
 merchants demanded for them. The planters, 
 who were pretty well stocked, were not very 
 eager to purchase, and the merchants knowing 
 that a market would ultimately be found for 
 them, were determined not to lower their de- 
 mands; in consequence of which, hundreds of 
 these poor beings were obliged to be kept on 
 board the ships, or in large buildings at Gads- 
 den's -wharf for months together. The merchants 
 for their own interest, I suppose, had them 
 properly attended to } and supplied with a suffi- 
 ciency of provisions ; but their clothing was very 
 scanty, and some unusually sharp weather, during 
 the winter, carried off great numbers of them. 
 Close confinement and improper food, also creat- 
 ed a variety of disorders, which, together with the 
 dysentry and some cutaneous diseases, to which 
 the negroes are subject, considerably increased 
 the mortality. Upwards of seven hundred died 
 in less than three months, and carpenters were 
 daily employed at the wharf, in making shells for 
 the dead bodies. A few years ago, when a si- 
 milar mortality took place, the dead bodies of the 
 negroes, to save expense, were thrown into the 
 river, and even left to be devoured by the turkey 
 buzzards; in consequence of which, no body 
 would eat any fish, and it was upwards of three 
 
SLAVE TRADE-. 46' 
 
 months before the corporation put a stop to the 
 practice. 
 
 These losses, instead of abating the price, 
 served only to increase it, and many were put up 
 at vendue, where, according to their age, size 
 and condition, they sold for from three to six hun- 
 dred dollars each. X ae auctioneers live all in 
 one street, near the water side, in East Bay. They 
 have vendues twice a week, and the place is then 
 like Babel : crowds of people bidding for dead 
 and live stock, among which negroes and people 
 of colour are constantly seen; brokers praising 
 the good qualities of their commodities, and 
 knocking them down to the best bidder. One 
 morning, I had a hearty laugh at the expense of 
 a woman who had purchased a female slave at 
 one of these auctions. The brokers are obliged 
 to state the reason for selling the negroes, or give 
 a bill of sale, warranting them sound. The girl 
 in question had been lately imported,' and as 
 the auctioneer declared, it was intended to have 
 shipped her off with several others, for New 
 Orleans; but that in her condition (ppiotipg to 
 a certain protuberance in front), it was thought 
 most advisable to put her up at vendue. The 
 poor girl appeared to be about sixteen, seemed 
 very unwell, and had no other covering than a 
 dirty blanket. She was placed upon a table by 
 the side of the auctioneer, who frequently turned 
 her round to the bidders, to shew her make and 
 
408 THE BARGAIN-BUYER. 
 
 figure; he would also, at times, open her mouth 
 and shew her teeeth, much in the same style as 
 a jockey would exhibit the mouth of a horse, for 
 the inspection of his customers. From the man- 
 ner in which he described her situation, I really 
 believed at first that she was in the family way, a 
 condition which always enhances the value of a 
 slave : but on looking more earnestly at the girl, 
 the protuberance seemed to be rather too high 
 for such a state. One woman, however, who 
 appeared very eager to purchase, outbid the rest, 
 and gave 150 dollars for her, under the full per- 
 suasion that the girl was with child,and of course 
 a great bargain at that price. The auctioneer 
 also assured her, that she had been sold for less 
 than half her real value. The girl got down 
 from the table with much difficulty, and the wo- 
 man went with her into the auction-room (for 
 the sales are made in the street before the door). 
 She was eager to examine the quality of the 
 commodity which she had bought ; when, to her 
 infinite mortification, upon taking off the blanket, 
 she discovered that the girl, instead of being with 
 child, had got the dropsy. She immediately 
 wanted the auctioneer to take her back, but he 
 was too keen; and declared that it was a just and 
 fair sale ; for the truth of which he appealed to 
 the by-standers. It was not his fault, he said, if 
 the lady had been deceived by appearances ; it 
 was too often the case; but he declared that he 
 
OBSERVATIONS ON THE SLAVE-TRADE 409 
 
 had stated her real situation, which was, that she 
 was not in a condition to be sent on a long 
 voyage, and he still maintained that, that was 
 the only defect she was sold for. (< For any 
 tf/zmg/'-says the auctioneer, " that I know to the 
 contrary, the girl may he with child,, hut the lady 
 is certainly the best judge." 
 
 All, except the unfortunate purchaser, laughed 
 heartily at the trick. One advised her to send 
 for Dr. De Bow immediately, and have the girl 
 tapped ; another was of opinion that she had 
 better send for a carpenter to make a coffin ; and 
 a third declared she was heartily glad the woman 
 had been taken in, as she was always so fond of 
 buying bargains ; and would be bound to say, 
 that she would not go to the expense of a dollar 
 to save the girl's life. 
 
 I quitted this traffic in human flesh with dis- 
 gust ; though I could not refrain from laughing 
 at the archness of the auctioneer, and the credu- 
 lity of the bargain-buyer. In most countries, 
 people are fond of purchasing what they 
 call bargains, which, as Sterne says, is only the 
 buying of a bad commodity that you don't want, 
 because you can get it cheaper than a good one 
 when you do ! 
 
 A great deal has been said for and against sla- 
 very, and, as Sir Roger de Coverley observes, "it is 
 a subject upon which much may be said on both 
 sides." Those whose interests are affected by it, arc 
 
410 OBSERVATIONS ON THE SLAVE-TRADE. 
 
 of course its supporters; and tbosewho see it only 
 with a philanthropic eye, are its natural oppo- 
 nents. In a political point of view, we may now 
 suppose, that it is completely exploded by Great 
 Britain and the United States. Whether the 
 abolition of the slave-trade will continue, is at 
 present doubtful ; for large supplies of Africans 
 seem to be absolutely necessary for certain parts 
 of the possessions of both nations. Neither the 
 sugar plantations of the West Indies, nor the rice 
 swamps, tobacco and cotton plantations of Vir- 
 ginia, the Carolinas, and Georgia, can be culti- 
 vated without them. The negro can, uncovered, 
 stand the sun's meridian heat, and labour his ap- 
 pointed time, exposed to the continual steam 
 which arises from low and swampy grounds, 
 while a white man can barely support himself 
 under the shade, surrounded by such a relaxing 
 and unhealthy atmosphere. The negro can work 
 for hours in mud and water, (which he is obliged 
 to do in the cultivation of rice, in ditching and 
 draining) without injury to himself, whilst to a 
 white, this labour would be almost certain death. 
 In fact, the Africans are now become as necessary 
 in those parts of the world, as beasts of burthen 
 are to Europeans. It is to be lamented that the 
 slave-trade was ever introduced ; for had it not, 
 the whites would have neglected the unhealthy 
 spots which they now occupy, and have confined 
 themselves to places more congenial to their con- 
 
TREATMENT OF THE AFRICANS. 411 
 
 stitutions. How many millions of acres in the 
 world, far superior inf every respect to (hose parts 
 where Africans are indispensable, are still covered 
 with immeasurable forests, that have never yet 
 echoed to the stroke of the woodman's axe. 
 
 It were indeed to be wished, that the present 
 stock of Africans would answer the purpose of 
 the planters by their domestic population, instead 
 of rendering fresh importations requisite. It is 
 natural to suppose, that the planters would find 
 it their interest to promote the health and com- 
 fort of their negroes for that purpose, and in many 
 instances it is so; but others have too 'often af- 
 forded proofs of a contrary disposition. The 
 flagrant abuses which have been committed on 
 the African slaves, have ultimately led to the 
 amelioration of their condition, and at length to 
 the total abolition of the trade. The negroes ap- 
 pear to be formed for servitude, and require the 
 strict but merciful hand of a master, otherwise 
 they are apt to take unwarrantable liberties. If 
 treated well, they are faithful and affectionate; 
 nor do I see how it can be the interest of the 
 master to treat them otherwise; but a violei t 
 temper does not always study its own interest; ai;d 
 we have unfortunately had too many instances of 
 white people disgracing themselves by barbari- 
 ties, that would sully the character of a New 
 Zealand savage. Even some of the ladies of 
 Charleston, I am told, have been known to 
 
412 REFINED CRUELTY. 
 
 exercise the cozvskin with- considerable dexterity 
 upon the naked backs of their slaves. I never 
 had an opportunity of seeing- one of those deli- 
 cate instruments of flagellation,, called cowskins ; 
 but from what I have heard, I imagine it is of 
 the same nature as that used by the Turks, when 
 they bastinade an offender ; though it is there dis- 
 tinguished by a very different name. One instance 
 of refined cruelty, I should have sincerely hoped, 
 for the sake of humanity, had been false, or mis- 
 represented, but I am sorry to say there is no rea- 
 son to doubt its authenticity. A lady at Sulli- 
 van's Island is said to have assisted her husband 
 in whipping their negro to such a degree, that 
 his back was completely raw : not thinking he 
 had been sufficiently punished, they applied a 
 pickle of pepper and salt to his wounds, and the 
 miserable wretch died a few hours after, in the 
 most excruciating tortures, What his offence 
 was, I know not, but nothing could justify such 
 inhuman treatment. I do not mention this fact 
 as a reflection upon the Carolinian females ; on 
 the contrary they are, in general, extremely kind 
 and tender to their slaves ; nor are the men by 
 any means remarkable for severity, but are rather 
 distinguished for their careful and humane treat- 
 ment of their negroes. 
 
 The penalty for killing a slave in South Caro- 
 lina, is, if in the heat of passion, 50/., and for 
 premeditated murder 100/. For the last offence, 
 
PEOPLE O* COLOUR. 413 
 
 the murderer is rendered incapable of holding or 
 receiving the profits of any office, place, or emo- 
 lument, civil or military, within the state. The 
 negroes, if guilty of murder or rebellion, are 
 burnt to death ; and within these three or four 
 years, two have suffered that horrid punishment. 
 For common offences, they are either flogged at 
 home by their masters or mistresses, or sent to a 
 place next the jail in Broad-street, called the 
 Sugar' House, where a man is employed to Hog 
 them at the rate of a shilling per dozen lashes. 
 I was told, that a lady once complained of the 
 great expense she was at for flogging, and in- 
 tended to contract with the man to Hog her slave* 
 by the year ! 
 
 The mulattoes, or people of colour, are very 
 numerous in Charleston. Many of them are free, 
 bnt a much greater proportion are slaves. They 
 are said to be more insolent and debauched than 
 the negroes, which is perhaps owing to the 
 knowledge of their origin, and the, liberties they 
 conceive they are entitled to take. Many of the 
 jnulaito girls are handsome, and good figures. 
 They are fond of dress, full of vanity, and gene- 
 rally dispense their favours very liberally to the 
 whites. The negroes who are natives of Africa, 
 are often dull, stupid, and indolent. They are, 
 however, in general more robust and capable of 
 iield labour, than those born in Carolina, and 
 have less deceit and libertinism in their charac- 
 
414 NEGRO CHARACTERISTICS. 
 
 ter. The negroes bom in Carolina are much 
 tinctured with European vices, particular!}' if 
 the j live in Charleston ; but they make the best 
 servants, being well acquainted from their child- 
 hood with household duties, and the business of 
 the plantp.tion or farm. They have also a high 
 opinion of themselves, and look with contempt 
 upon the new Africans. I heard one of them 
 observe, on seeipg a drove of newly imported ne- 
 groes going out of Charleston to a plantation in 
 the country— " Ah ! dey he 'poor devils, we fetch 
 ten of dem, ifmassa swap me." Free blacks are 
 also a step above those who are in bondage, and 
 nothing offends them more than to call them ne- 
 groes. The steward of the Calliope, who was one 
 of these, was highly offended with Captain Tur- 
 ner, who out of joke would frequently call him a 
 damned negro. "Negur, massa !" says the 
 steward, " me he no negur — don't call mt negur ; 
 tnassa." An old negro woman is called momma, 
 which is a broad pronunciation of mama ; and a 
 girl, missy. I once happened to call a young 
 negro wench momma— f ' me he no momma/' says 
 she, " me had no children yet." The negroes are 
 also called by a variety of names ; and the cata- 
 logue of the heathen mythology of ancient he- 
 roes and demigods, of saints and martyrs, are 
 ransacked for that purpose. Notwithstanding 
 the vicious mode of fighting common among the 
 Whites in the southern states of America, I always 
 
RELIGIOUS FANATICISM. 415 
 
 observed that the negroes boxed each other fairly; 
 and if any foul play happened to take place, the 
 negro by-standers would immediately interpose. 
 
 The old negroes, both men and women, are 
 very attentive to their religious duties ; and seats 
 in the churches and chapels of Charleston are 
 appropriated to their use. The majority of the 
 negroes are Methodists, whose mode of worship 
 seems to be a favourite with most of the blacks 
 throughout the states. Unlike the American In- 
 dians, who are caught by the paraphernalia and 
 mysterious ceremonies . of the Roman Catholic 
 Teligion, the negroes receive with enthusiasm the 
 pleasing doctrine of faith without works ; and if 
 there is little religious ceremony in the service, 
 its simplicity is amply compensated by the thun- 
 dering anathemas of the preacher; this catches 
 their attention, and in imitation of their more en- 
 lightened white brethren, they often fall down in 
 divine ecstacies, crying, shouting, bawling, and 
 beating their breasts, until they are ready to faint. 
 Much of this extravagance is now done away, at 
 least in Charleston, since some of the most vehe- 
 ment of the Methodist preachers were obliged to 
 decamp, lest the meeting-houses should be pulled 
 down upon them. Several were pelted, and 
 dragged out of their pulpits by some young men 
 of the town, in the very middle of their horrid 
 denunciations, and the frantic gestures of their 
 deluded congregation. These violences were 
 
416 ANECDOTE OF A NEGRO AND HIS WIFE. 
 
 winked at by the municipality, as it was found 
 that the absurd doctrines broached by those fana- 
 tical preachers, did much injury to the slaves. 
 Calm, dispassionate religion, of whatever deno- 
 mination it might be, has never been withheld 
 from the negroes, but rather encouraged, and in 
 general they are very orderly and devout in their 
 demeanour on Sundays. The free negroes and 
 people of colour are then dressed out in their 
 best, and feel exalted as much above the slaves, 
 as the whites do above them. They pull off their 
 h'ats, bow, scrape, and curtsey to each other, and 
 the younger part seem to treat their elders with 
 much respect and attention. The meeting-houses 
 are crowded with all colours, and many of the 
 slaves frequently sit on the steps outside the door. 
 Where the Africans are well treated, longevity 
 is no stranger to their race, Several have lived 
 to 80, 90, and 100 years; and in 1805 a negro wo- 
 man died in Pennsylvania at the age of 116. I 
 shall close this notice of the negroes of South 
 Carolina, with a remarkable instance of inviolable 
 affection, and heroic courage, evinced in the con- 
 duct of a negro and his wife, who had been re- 
 cently imported from Africa ; and which took 
 place while I was in Charleston. They had 
 been separated, and sold to two different persons 
 in the city ; the man to Major R — , and the 
 
 woman to Mrs. D'A . For a few months 
 
 they resided in Charleston, and the major had 
 
ANECDOTE OF A NEGRO AND HIS WIFE. <tl? 
 
 often allowed the man to visit his wife, which in 
 some measure reconciled them to their separation. 
 But hi3 master wishing to employ him on his 
 plantation in the country, gave orders for his 
 bein^ sent away. The negro no sooner learnt his 
 destiny, than he became desperate, and determined 
 upon as bold a scheme as the mind of man could 
 conceive, and one that might vie with the far- 
 famed resolution of the Roman Arria. He ob- 
 tained leave of his master, on the evening pre- 
 vious to his departure, to take a last farewel of 
 his wife. I know not what passed at such an 
 affecting interview; but it is supposed that he 
 prevailed on her to die with him rather than be 
 separated from each other, and obliged to pass 
 their lives in miserable slavery ; for the next morn- 
 ing they were both found dead, having strangled 
 themselves with ropei. The hands of both were 
 at liberty, so that there is no room to suppose 
 that either had not consented to die. The Charles- 
 ton papers represented this transaction in a very 
 different light, being fearful of the consequences 
 of such an example, among the negroes ; who, 
 whatever their oppressors may say to the con- 
 trary, have proved, in innumerable instances, that 
 they are occasionally possessed of feelings as sen- 
 sitive and acute as their European brethren. 
 
 Religious toleration is allowed in its fullest ex- 
 tent, in South Carolina, as well as every othtt 
 
 vox. 11. * E 
 
418 * MMU RELIGION. 
 
 state of the Union ; and people of every sect, and 
 form of worship, are admitted to a share of the 
 government. Formerly the protestant church of 
 England, was the most predominant religion in 
 the state; but at present, the independents, pres- 
 byterians, and baptists, are supposed to be the most 
 numerous. A. bishop was at the head of the 
 episcopal church, a few years ago ; but since his 
 decease that vacancy has not been filled up. A 
 large circular building called the Independent 
 Meeting, has, within these few years, been built 
 in Meeting-street. The mode of worship nearly 
 resembles that of the Scotch church, and the chapel 
 is frequented by many of the rich and respectable 
 families of the city, several of whom have also 
 seats in the episcopal churches. The clergyman 
 whom I heard in that chapel, delivered a most 
 excellent discourse, partly extempore, and though 
 it bad somewhat of the evangelical turn of ex- 
 pression, rt was delivered in mild, moderate, and 
 elegant language. The congregation sang without 
 the assistance of an organ, and their voices har- 
 monized more agreeably than the baptists and 
 
 The tet vice in the episcopal churches of the 
 United States, is the same as that of England, 
 except in such parts as have been accommodated 
 to the reigning government. Instead of his Ma- 
 jesty, the lioyal Family, the nobility, and Parlia- 
 ment, they pray for the President, the Senate, 
 
. METHODIST MEETINGS. 419 
 
 and House of Representatives of the United 
 States St. Athanasius's creed is omitted, and 
 some slight alterations have been made in the text 
 of the common prayer. The churches, chapels, 
 and meetings of Charleston, are, in general,, well 
 attended, and during divine service, few people 
 are seen in the streets. The young men, however, 
 are fond of posting themselves near a church- 
 porch, before and after service, in order to admire 
 the girls, who afford the amorous youths few 
 opportunities of seeing their elegant forms in 
 the street, on other days. 
 
 Some of the methodists are in the habit of 
 having meetings twice a week at their own houses. 
 In the street where I resided for some time, a 
 methodist woman lived within a few doors of 
 our house, and twice a week, from six to nine 
 o'clock in the evening, she used to collect a small 
 congregation, for the purpose of praying and 
 singing. There would have been nothing irre- 
 gular or improper in such meetings, had they 
 confined their devotion to themselves ; but they 
 absolutely used to disturb the neighbourhood ; 
 for according as they happened to be inspired, 
 they would rise up, and bellow out such thun- 
 dering imprecations upon their own wickedness, 
 that a mob usually collected round the house : 
 they took care, however, to have the window- 
 shutters closed. I have frequently heard the 
 woman of the house uttering the most blasphe- 
 e e2 
 
426 MAttRlAGES AND FUNERAM. 
 
 mauls language, crying, howling, and groaning, 
 while one of the brethren continued praying; 
 and as the man increased his voice, she increased 
 ber bowlings, in which the rest of the company 
 frequently joined. When that was over, they would 
 grow a little calmer, and sing hymns, after which 
 they would finish their evening's devotion with a 
 fulminating threat against all who refused to 
 participate in the doctrine of faith without works. 
 The woman of the house, however, was deter- 
 mined that wo r h s should precede faith ; for she 
 frequently flogged her slaves before she went to 
 prayers, as a kind of prologue to the evening's 
 entertainments. 
 
 Marriages are solemnized by clergymen of all 
 persuasions; as they are, also, by justices of the 
 peace. The latter incur a fine of 100/. currency for 
 so doing ; but it has never been enforced against 
 them. Licenses for marriage are more formal 
 than necessary ; for as there is no law directing 
 such a license to be first obtained, a marriage is 
 equally lawful without it. 
 
 Funerals are conducted much in the same style 
 as at New York, except that in Charleston the 
 women attend. I have seen two or three hun- 
 dred men, women, and children, walking arm in 
 arm, in pairs. The corpse is placed on a sort of 
 hearse, or rather cart, and covered with a pall, 
 above which is a roof supported by four pillars; 
 the whole is very mean, and drawn by only one 
 
FREE MASONS, 42\ 
 
 lwrse, driven hy a negro shabbily dressed. The 
 relations, or particular friends, wear mourning, 
 with crape hat-bands and scarfs ; the rest of the 
 company are in coloured clothes. Previous to 
 setting out, refreshment is served round, and 
 «prigs of rosemary, or lavender, are given to 
 each. The negroes imitate the whites in their 
 funerals, arid it is curious to see a negro parson 
 and clerk attending them. The bells never toll 
 in Charleston at deaths. A .few months before 
 the yellow fever raged in that city, in 1807, an 
 undertaker made his appearance, which was so 
 great a novelty to the inhabitants, that he was 
 obliged to explain what was meant by the term 
 undertaker, in an advertisement. Before tliis, 
 carpenters were employed to knock up a coffin, 
 and the deceased's friends were obliged to pro- 
 vide every necessary for the funeral, either at their 
 own houses or at different shops. Military fune-* 
 rals are conducted with much parade and cere- 
 mo x\y. 
 
 The charitable societies in Charleston, besides 
 the Orphan-house, are, the South Carolina Society, 
 St. Andrew's, Fellowship, German Friendly, Me- 
 chanic, Mount Sion, Hibernian, Gemiloth Ilasa- 
 din, and Free Masons The grand lodge of the 
 latter is self-constituted, and threw off the yoke 
 of the grand lodge of England. It does not pos- 
 sess a fund of more than a thousand dollars, and its 
 charitable donations are but small. A remarkable 
 
42& FREE MASON*. 
 
 proposition was once made in this lodge, that all 
 its members should profess Christianity : it was, 
 however, over-ruled ; nor indeed could it have 
 been admitted, as free-masonry was established 
 with a view to embrace every denomination of 
 religion in the world. Several of the new lodges 
 in the United States are said to have degenerated 
 from the pure principles of free-masonry, and are 
 too apt to be influenced by politics, 
 
( 423 ) 
 
 CHAP. XXXVIII. 
 
 Legislature of South Carolina — City of Columbia 
 — Revenue — Expense^ of the City of Charles- 
 ton — Taxes — Courts of Law— Curious Trial — 
 Portraits of Washington and Hamilton more 
 saleable than those of Jefferson — Review on 
 Charleston Race Ground — Militia of South 
 Carolina — Volunteer Corps of CJiarleston — 
 Field day — Military Force of the United States 
 "badly disciplined— Satire upon American Dis- 
 cipline — A Militia Muster. 
 
 The legislative authority of South Carolina is 
 vested in a general assembly, consisting of a se^ 
 nate, and house of representatives. The execu- 
 tive authority is vested in a governor and lieute- 
 nant-governor, who are chosen by the general 
 assembly to continue in office for two years, and 
 they are not eligible to the same for the term of 
 four years, after they may have served in that ca- 
 pacity. The judicial power is vested in such 
 superior, and inferior courts of law and equity, 
 as the legislative may, from time to time, direct 
 and establish. At present the courts of this state 
 consist of a court of sessions and common pleas 
 
424 REVENUE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 for each district in the state, which are held 
 twice a year. These courts are courts of record ; 
 possessing complete, original, and final jurisdic- 
 tion, in all cases touching the causes and pleas 
 concerning them ; except as it may be altered 
 by law, and in points of practice by the rules of 
 court. In Charleston, a court has lately been 
 established, called the Inferior City Court, for the 
 purpose of hearing and determining all causes of 
 a civil nature arising within the limits of the 
 city, and for the trial of all offences against the 
 bye-laws of the same. 
 
 In the year 1 789 the seat of government was 
 removed from the city of Charleston to Colum- 
 bia ; and with it all the public records, excepting 
 those relating to property, within the districts of 
 Charleston, Georgetown, and Beaufort. But for 
 the greater conveniency of the citizens in the 
 upper and lower parts of the state, the offices 
 attached to government were divided in such a 
 manner, that the treasury, the office of state, 
 and the surveyor-general's office were to have 
 each an office at Columbia and Charleston. The 
 heads of those departments residing at one place, 
 and their deputies at the other. 
 
 Columbia, now the sent of government in South 
 Carolina, is situated just below the confluence 
 of the Broad and Saluda rivers on the eastern 
 side of the Congaree River, about 115 miles 
 from Charleston. The town is laid off by a re- 
 
11EVENUE OF SOUTH CAROLINA, 425 
 
 gular plan, its streets intersecting each other at 
 right angles. The buildings are erected about 
 three quarters of a mile from the Cong&ree, on 
 a ridge of high land, near 300 feet above the 
 level of the river, from which a delightful pros* 
 pect is presented. Here the state-house, situat- 
 ed on a beautiful eminence, is to be seen, at the 
 distance of many miles, from various parts of the 
 country. Columbia consists of about 150 houses ; 
 and during the sittings of the legislature, as- 
 sumes a gay appearance. At other times a calm- 
 ness and quiet reigns, far different from the noise 
 and bustle which might be expected in the ca- 
 pital of a state. This tranquillity is, however, 
 sometimes rouzed into active business by the ar- 
 rival of loaded waggons from the upper country. 
 Vineyards, cotton, and hemp plantations are suc- 
 cessfully cultivated in the neighbourhood of Co- 
 lumbia; and oil mills, rope-walks, and some other 
 manufactories have been established in the town. 
 
 In the year 1783 Charleston was incorporated 
 by an act of the legislature, and called the city 
 of Charleston. It was then divided into thirteen 
 wards, each of which annually choose a warden, 
 by ballot, and from the whole of the wardens so 
 chosen an intendant is afterwards elected by the 
 citizens. These form a council for the govern- 
 ment of the city, by whom all ordinances are passed 
 for its regulation. Its police is enforced by a 
 city guard, under the command of a captain and 
 
426 TAXES IN SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 other officers; and with the incorporation of the 
 city, additional taxes are laid on its inhabitants 
 for supporting the expense of the same, amount- 
 ing annually to not less than 60,000 dollars. 
 
 Besides the expenses of the city, state taxes are 
 imposed for the support of the government, the 
 annual expense of which is about 100,000 dollars. 
 This sum is raised by a tax on property of one 
 and a half per cent, on carriages and negroes, 
 the latter of which are taxed at the rate of one 
 dollar and a half each. Free negroes and people 
 of colour, pay something more. Houses and 
 land are repeatedly advertised to be sold for pay- 
 ing the taxes, and long lists are published in the 
 papers, as haying been seized by the sheriff. All 
 absent persons entitled to any taxable property, 
 or estate, in South Carolina (excepting such as 
 are sent abroad in the government service, until 
 one year after the expiration of their commis- 
 sions ; or young men sent abroad for education, 
 until attaining the age of twenty-three years) 
 are double taxed ; because, as the state receives 
 no benefit from their services at home, it is sup- 
 posed but reasonable, it should receive some com- 
 pensation for protecting their estates while absent ; 
 and also because it tends to discourage long re- 
 sidences of the citizens abroad. Sums of money 
 at interest, actually received, over and above 
 what each person pays on account of interest 
 (except when such interest is received by any 
 
COURTS OF LAW. 427 
 
 widow, orphan, or unmarried woman, having no 
 other means of livelihood ), are assessed at the rate 
 of a quarter dollar on every hundred dollars which 
 shall have produced an interest of seven per cent. 
 Upon sales at public auction, a tax of one per 
 cent, on all ships' boats or other vessels; lands, 
 houses, and slaves ; and three per cent, on all 
 horses, cattle, goods, wares and merchandizes, is 
 imposed. Hawkers and pedlars pay a tax of 250 
 dollars for a license to seil goods, wares, and 
 merchandize in any part of the state. Theatrical 
 performers pay 428 dollars and a half, for every 
 license granted in the city of Charleston, and 107 
 dollars, 14 cents for every license granted else- 
 where in the state. 
 
 The laws are similar to those of Great Britain ; 
 but the right of primogeniture has been abolished, 
 and real and personal estates now descend, in cases 
 of intestacy, by more equitable distributions. 
 The power, however, of individuals in making 
 wills, remains the same as before. Bankrupts 
 and insolvent debtors are never deprived of their 
 liberty when they faithfully deliver up all their 
 effects to their creditors. 
 
 I was present at the hearing of two causes in 
 Charleston, in which there appeared to be some- 
 thing more than partiality in the administration 
 of justice. One was a case in which the owner 
 of a slave ship refused to pay the sailors their 
 wages after a twelvemonths' voyage, because the 
 
423 COURTS OF L/*Wo 
 
 «hip was seized on her arrival in port. The judge 
 gave it in favour of the owner, and strong sus- 
 picions were entertained, that he had been in- 
 fluenced by a pecuniary consideration. The de- 
 cision, however, caused so much dissatisfaction, 
 and appeared so unjust, that a young counsellor 
 took the sailors* cause in hand, and moved for a 
 new trial, which being granted, the sailors gained 
 their suit. Some of them had upwards of 300 
 dollars to receive; The other cause was the trial 
 of a man for attempting to commit a rape. The 
 jury found him guilty ; but he was pardoned be 
 fore he was brought up to receive sentence. 
 
 The present Attorney-general is said to be a sen- 
 sible and learned man ; but T never heard a worse 
 orator in any court. The other barristers are all 
 young men, and two or three of them are excellent 
 speakers. I have often admired in the courts of 
 law of the United States, the frequent references 
 which the counsellors continual] v make to English 
 law cases, at the same time that one half of the 
 nation is railing against every thing that is Eng- 
 lish ; and in Pennsylvania some violent demo- 
 crats absolutely entered into a resolution to pro- 
 hibit their barristers from quoting any cases from 
 English law books, or referring, in any of their 
 pleadings, to English precedents. This splenetic 
 resolution was, however, overruled by the dis- 
 trict judge of Pennsylvania. Our law book- 
 sellers must export very largely to the United 
 States, where lawyers are so numerous ; most of 
 
CURIOUS TRIAL. 429 
 
 f he young men of genteel families being brought 
 up to that profession. 
 
 A curious trial took place at Philadelphia, 
 while I remained in the states, between two priut»- 
 sellers, Day and Jams, respecting an exchange 
 of Jefferson's portraits for those of Washington. 
 Jarvis had agreed, at the request of Day, to give 
 fifty of Washington's portraits for fifty of Jeffer- 
 son's ; hut finding how much the latter had de- 
 preciated, and fallen in the public estimation, he 
 sent only twenty- live Washingtons for the fifty 
 Jeffersons which he had received. The other 
 remonstrated, and even offered to take twenty- 
 five Hamiltons in lieu ; but this was refused, as 
 the portraits of General Hamilton were nearly 
 as valuable as those of Washington, they selling 
 for five and six dollars each, while the Jeffersons 
 could hardly find a sale at half a dollar each. 
 The judge said, that the jury were not to look at 
 the value of the prints, but to the contract : upon 
 which a verdict was given for the plaintiff, da- 
 mages 118^- dollars. 
 
 The militia of South Carolina is divided into 
 two divisions, each commanded by a Major-ge- 
 neral. These divisions comprehend nine brigades, 
 thirty-nine regiments of infantry, eight regiments 
 and a squadron of cavalry, and one regiment 
 and a battalion of artijlery, besides artillery com- 
 panies which are attached to some of the regi- 
 ments of infantry. The brigades are commanded 
 
430 VOLUNTEER CORPS. 
 
 by as many Brigadier-generals; and the regi- 
 ments are commanded by Lieutenant-colonels. 
 The Governor is commander-in-chief of all the 
 militia of the state, both by sea and land. 
 
 Every able-bodied white male citizen, between 
 the age of eighteen and forty- five, is enrolled in the 
 militia, and free people of colour are enrolled as 
 pioneers. One- third of the militia may be marched 
 out of the state by order of the executive of the 
 United States, on particular emergencies, and 
 under certain conditions ; and treated in every 
 respect the same as the regular troops, except 
 that in cases of court-martial, the court is to he 
 selected from the militia of the state. Officers 
 rise by seniority ; and no election exists except in 
 the first appointment of subaltern. The number 
 of effective militia in South Carolina is about. 
 40,000, of whom 2,000 are cavalry. 
 
 In Charleston, the inhabitants have formed 
 themselves into volunteer corps, armed and 
 clothed at their own expense. One half con- 
 sists of cavalry and artillery. The uniform of 
 the latter is a long blue coat, with red facings, and 
 large cocked hat and red feather ; it has a heavy 
 appearance, and is but ill adapted to such a corps, 
 whose chief perfection is in celerity of move- 
 ment. The little company of Jews wear a si- 
 milar dress, and with their peculiarity of features, 
 render them grotesque looking soldiers. I was 
 present at a review, on tke race-ground, of the 
 
VOLUNTEER CORPS. 431 
 
 different corps, and the new levy of militia, form- 
 ing a part of the 109,000 men ordered by Con- 
 gress to hold themselves in readiness for the de- 
 fence of the country. They appeared to be very 
 ill disciplined, and the new levy, which mus- 
 tered about 1,000 men, was out of uniform and 
 had no other arms than their own rifles or 
 fowling pieces. The volunteer companies were 
 dressed in a variety of uniforms, and made a re- 
 spectable appearance. The emblem upon the 
 colours of the artillery corps was apt enough to 
 the situation of the country at the period of the 
 revolution : it was an artilleryman standing by 
 the side of a cannon, and a serpent upon the 
 ground near his feet, looking up in the man's 
 face, with the motto: te doiit tread on me" 
 The militia of the United States is for the most 
 part badly disciplined. In the towns, some shew 
 of a military force is kept up by the volunteers, 
 who are fond of captivating the ladies with their 
 smart uniforms and nodding plumes ; but through- 
 out the country places the militia meet only to 
 eat, drink, and be merry. I met with an excel- 
 lent satire upon one of these meetings while I 
 was at Charleston : it was published in one of 
 their periodical works. As it may afford my 
 readers some amusement I have taken the liberty 
 to lay it before them. 
 
 (t I happened not long since to be present at 
 the muster of a captain's company, in a remote 
 
432 AMERICAN SATIRE, 
 
 part of one of the counties, and as no general 
 description could convey an adequate idea of the 
 achievements of that day, I must he permitted 
 to go a little into the detail, as well as my re- 
 collection will serve me. The men had been 
 notified to meet at nine o'clock, ' armed and 
 equipped as the law directs/ that is to say, with 
 a gun and cartouch box at least ; but as directed 
 by the law of the United States, f with a good 
 firelock, a sufficient bayonet and belt, and pouch 
 with a box to contain not less than twenty-four 
 sufficient cartridges of powder and ball/ At 
 12 o'clock, about one-third, perhaps half, the men 
 had collected, and an inspector's return of the 
 number present would have stood nearly thus: 
 one captain, one lieutenant, ensign none, Ser- 
 jeants two, corporals none, drummers none, fifers 
 none, privates present 25, ditto absent 30, guns 
 15, gunlocks 12, ramrods 10, riflle pouches three, 
 bayonets none, belts none, spare flints none, car- 
 tridges none, horsewhips, walking canes, and um- 
 brellas, twenty -two. 
 
 " A little before one o'clock, the captain, whom 
 I shall distinguish by the name of Cloapolc, gave 
 directions for forming the line of parade. In 
 obedience to this order, one of the Serjeants, the 
 strength of whose lungs had long supplied the 
 place of a drum and fife, placed himself in front 
 of the house, and began to bawl with great ve- 
 hemence, f All Captain Clodpole's company to pa- 
 
A MILItlA MUSTER. 433 
 
 rade there! come gentlemen, parade here! pa- 
 rade here!' says be, ' and all you that hasn't 
 guns, fall into the lower tend' He might have 
 bawled till this time, with as little success as the 
 Syrens sung to Ulysses, had he not changed his 
 post to a neighbouring shade ; there he was im- 
 mediately joined by all who were then at leisure, 
 the others were at that time engaged either as 
 parties or spectators at a game of fives, and could 
 not just then attend; however, in less than half 
 an hour, the game was finished, and the captain 
 was enabled to form his company, and proceed 
 iu the duties of the day. 
 
 (C Look to the right and dress !" 
 
 They were soon, by the help of the non-com- 
 missioned officers, placed in a straight line ; but as 
 every man was anxious to see how the rest stood, 
 those on the wings pressed forward for that pur- 
 pose, till the whole line assumed nearly the form 
 of a crescent. 
 
 " Whew! look at 'era; says the captain, why 
 gentlemen you are all crooking here at both 
 ecndfy so that yon will get on to me by and bye, 
 come, gentlemen, dress ! dress !" 
 
 'this was accordingly done ; but impelled by 
 the same motive as before, they soon resumed 
 their former figure, and so they were permitted 
 to remain. 
 
 " Now gentlemen/' says the captain, <( I am 
 going to carry you through the rerohitions of the 
 
 VOL. II. F F 
 
434 A MILITIA MUSTER. 
 
 manual exercise, and I want you,, gentlemen, if 
 you please, to pay every particular attention to 
 the word of command, just exactly as I give it 
 out to you. I hope you will have a little pa- 
 tience, gentlemen, if you please, and I'll be as 
 short as possible; and if I should be a-going 
 wrong, I will be much obliged to any of you 
 gentlemen to put me right again, for I mean all 
 for the best, and I hope you will excuse me if you 
 please. And one thing, gentlemen, I must cau- 
 tion you against, in particular, and that is this, 
 not to make any mistakes if you can possibly help 
 it, and the best way to do this, will be to do all 
 the motions right at first, and that will help us to 
 get along so much the faster, and I will try to 
 have it over as soon as possible. Come, boys* 
 come to a shoulder. 
 
 f( Poise, foolk t 
 
 " Cock, foolk ! — Very handsomely done. 
 
 " Take, aim ! ■ 
 
 " Ram down cartridge! — No! No! Fire. I 
 recollect now, that firing comes next after taking 
 aim, according to Steuben; but with your per- 
 mission gentlemen, I'll read the words of com- 
 mand just exactly as they are printed in the book, 
 and then I shall be sure to be right. c O yes ! read 
 it, Captain, read it/ exclaimed twenty voices at 
 oncej f that will save time/ 
 
 "'Tention the whole then: please to observe, gen- 
 tlemen, that at the word, fire- vou must fire; that 
 
A MILITIA MUSTER. 436 
 
 is, if any of your guns are loaden'd, you must not 
 jhoot myearnest, but only make pretence like ; 
 and all you gentlemen fellow-soldiers, who's armed 
 with nothing but sticks, and riding switches, and 
 corn stalks, needn't go through the firings, but 
 stand as you are, and keep yourselves to your- 
 selves. 
 
 " Half cock fo oik ! — Very well done. 
 
 " S, h, u, t, (spelling) shet pan ! — That too 
 would have been very handsomely done, if you 
 hadn't have handled cartridge instead; but I sup- 
 pose you wasn't noticing. Now, 'tention one and 
 all gentlemen, and do that motion again. 
 
 "Shet pan ! — Very good, very well indeed, you 
 did that motion equal to any old soldiers; you im- 
 prove astonishingly. 
 
 " Handle cartridge ! — Pretty well considering 
 you done it wrong eend foremost, as if you took 
 the cartridge out of your mouth, aud bit off the 
 twist with the cartridge box. 
 
 "Draw, rammer ! — Those who have no rammers 
 to their guns need not draw, but only make the 
 motion ; it will do just as well, and save a great 
 deal of time. 
 
 < "Return rammer U — Very well again- — But that 
 would have been done, I think, with greater ex- 
 pertness, if you had performed the motion with a 
 little more dexterity. 
 
 " Shoulder foolk ! — Very handsomely done, in- 
 deed, if you had only brought the foolk 'to the 
 f f2 
 
436 A MILITIA MUSTER. 
 
 other shoulder, gentlemen. Do that motion 
 again, gentlemen, and bring the foolk up to the 
 left shoulder. 
 
 <e Shoulder foolk /—-Very good. 
 
 " Order foolk ! — Not quite so well, gentlemen; 
 not quite altogether : but perhaps I did not speak 
 loud enough for you to hear me all at once ; try 
 once more if you please; I hope you will be 
 patient, gentlemen, we will soon be through. 
 
 " Order foolk t — Handsomely done, gentlemen ! 
 very handsomely done f and altogether too, except 
 that a few of you were a leetle too soon, and some 
 others a leetle too late. 
 
 *' In laying down your guns, gentlemen, take 
 care to lay the locks up, and the other sides down. 
 
 iS 'Tent ion the whole ! Ground foolk I — Very 
 well. 
 
 " Charge, bagonet ! (Some of the men J — 'That 
 can't be right Captain, pray look again, for how 
 can we charge bagonet without our guns ?' j£ 
 
 "(Captain) I don't know as to that, but I know 
 Pm right, for here it is printed in the book 
 c, h, a, r, yes,, charge bagonet, that's right, that's 
 the word, if I know how to read ; come, gentle- 
 men, do pray charge bagonet ! Charge I say ! 
 Why don't you charge ? Do you think it an't so ? 
 Do you think I have lived to this time of day, 
 and don't know what change bagonet is ? Here, 
 come here, you may see for yourselves ; it's as 
 plain as the nose on your fa stop — stay — no ! 
 
A MILITIA MUSTER. 
 
 437 
 
 —halt ! no, no ! faith Fin wrong ! I'm wrong! I 
 turned over two leaves at once,but I beg jour par- 
 don, gentlemen, we willnotstayout long; and we'll 
 have something to drink as soon as we've done. 
 Come, boys, get up off the stumps and logs, and 
 take up your guns, and we'll soon be done ; 
 excuse me if you please. 
 
 ' ' Fix bagonet ! 
 
 "Advance arms! — Very well done, turn the stocks 
 of your guns in front, gentlemen, and that will 
 bring the barrels behind ; and hold them straight 
 up and down if you please. Let go with your 
 left hand, and take hold with your right just 
 below the guard. Steuben says the gun must be 
 held up p, e, Y,perticular : yes you must always 
 mind and hold your guns very perticular. Now 
 boys, Mention the whole ! 
 
 " Present arms! — Very handsomely done ! only 
 hold your guns over the other knee, and the other 
 hand up, turn your guns round a leetle, and raise 
 them up higher, draw the other foot back i Now 
 you are nearly right ; very well done, gentlemen ; 
 you have improved vastly since I first saw you : 
 you are getting too slick. What a charming 
 thing it is, to see men under good discipline. 
 Now, gentlemen, we are come to the revolutions : 
 but Lord, men, how did you get into such a hig- 
 glety-pigglety?" 
 
 The fact was, the shade had moved considerably 
 to the eastward, and had exposed the right wing 
 
438 A MILITIA MUSTER. 
 
 of these hardy veterans to a galling fire of the 
 sun ; being but poorly provided with umbrellas 
 at this end of the line, they found it convenient to 
 follow the shade, and in huddling to the left for 
 this purpose, they had changed the figure of their 
 line from that of a crescent, to one, which more 
 nearly resembled a pair of pot hooks. 
 
 "Come, gentlemen," says the captain, "spread 
 yourselves out again, into a straight line, and let 
 us get into the wheelings and other matters as 
 soon as possible." 
 
 But this was strenuously opposed by the soldiers. 
 They objected to going into these revolutions at 
 all, inasmuch as the weather was extremely hot, 
 and they had already been kept in the field up- 
 wards of three quarters of an hour. They re- 
 minded the captain of his repeated promise to be 
 as short as he possibly could, and it was clear be 
 could dispense with all this same wheeling and 
 flourishing if he chose. They were already very 
 thirsty,, and if he would not dismiss them, they de- 
 clared they would go off without dismission, and 
 get something to drink ; and lie might fine them 
 if that would do him any good; they were able 
 to pay their fine, but could not go without drink 
 to please any body ; and they swore they would 
 never vote for another captain who wished to be 
 so unreasonably strict. 
 
 " The captain behaved with great spirit upon 
 this occasion, and a smart colloquy ensued ; when 
 
A MILITIA MUSTER. 439 
 
 at length, becoming exasperated to the last de- 
 gree, he roundly asserted, that no soldier ought 
 ever to think hard of the orders of his officer ; 
 and finally he went as far as to say, that he did 
 not think any gentleman on that ground had any 
 just cause to be offended with him. The dis- 
 pute was at length settled by the captain's send- 
 ing for some grog, for their present accommo- 
 dation, and agreeing to omit reading the military 
 law, as directed by a late act, and also all the 
 military manoeuvres, except two or three such easy 
 and simple ones, as could be performed within 
 the compass of the shade. After they had drank 
 their grog, and " spread themselves/' they were 
 divided into platoons. 
 
 " 'Tention the whole ! — To the right wheel!" 
 Each man faced to the right about. 
 
 « Why gentlemen ! I didn't mean for every man 
 to stand still and turn imyturally right round; 
 but when I told you to wheel to the right, I 
 intended for you to wheel round to the right 
 as it were. Please to try that again, gentlemen ; 
 every right hand man must stand fast, and only 
 the others turn round." 
 
 In a previous part of the exercise, it had, for 
 the purpose of sizing them, been necessary to de- 
 nominate every second person, a (C right hand 
 man." A very natural consequence was, that 
 on the present occasion those right hand men 
 
440 A MILITIA MUSTER. 
 
 maintained their position, and all the interme- 
 diate ones faced about as before. 
 
 " Why look at 'em now I exclaimed the captain* 
 in extreme vexation. I'll be d — — d if you can 
 understand a word I say. Excuse me gentle- 
 men, but it rayly seems as if you couldn't come 
 at it exactly. In wheeling to the right, the right 
 hand eend of the platoon stands fast, and the 
 other eend comes round like a swingle tree. 
 Those on the outside must march faster than 
 those on the inside, and those on the inside, not 
 near so fast as those on the outside. You cer- 
 tainly must understand me now, gentlemen ; and 
 now please to tiy once more." 
 
 In this they were a little more successful. 
 
 <e Very well gentlemen ; very well indeed : and 
 now, gentlemen, at the word wheel to the left, 
 you m.usi wheel to the left. 
 
 " 'Tention the whole! To the left— left no— right 
 — that is the left — I mean the right — left, wheel I 
 march !" 
 
 In this he was strictly obeyed; some wheeling 
 to the right, seme to the left, and some to the 
 right, left, or both ways. / 
 
 " Stop ! halt ! let us try again ! I could not 
 just then tell my right hand ( from my left ; you 
 must excuse mc, gentlemen, if you please; ex- 
 perience makes perfect, as the saying is ; long as 
 I've served, I fine something new to learn every 
 
A MILITIA MUSTER. 441 
 
 day, but all's one for that : now, gentlemen, do 
 that motion once more." 
 
 By the help of a non-commissioned officer ia 
 front of each platoon, they wheeled this time with 
 considerable regularity. 
 
 " Now boys you must try to wheel by divi- 
 sions, and there is one thing in particular which 
 I have to request of you, gentlemen, audit is this, 
 not to make any blunder in your wheeling. You 
 must mind and keep at a wheeling distance; 
 and not talk in the ranks, nor get out of fix 
 again; for I want you to do this motion well, 
 and not make any blunder now. 
 
 " 'Tention the whole ! By divisions- to the right 
 wheel! niarch!" 
 
 In doing this, it soeined as if Bedlam had 
 broke loose ; every man took the command — 
 "Not so fast on the right! — How now! how 
 now ! — Haul down those umbrellas ! — Faster on 
 the left '.—Keep back a little in the middle there 
 —Don't crowd so — Hold up your gun, Sam-— Go 
 faster there ! — Faster U — Who trod on me ? — 
 
 D n your huffs, keep back ! keep back I — 
 
 Stop us, captain, do stop us — Go faster there! — 
 I've lost my shoe — Get up again — Ned, halt ! 
 halt! halt!— Stop, gentlemen ! stop! stop! — "5 
 
 By this time they got into utter and inexpli- 
 cable confusion, and so I left them. 
 
442 ARTS, SCIENCES, AND LITERATURE. 
 
 CHAP. XXXIX. 
 
 Arts, Sciences, and Literature of South Carolina 
 — Newspapers — Incomes of the Planters — 
 
 , Houses — Husbandry of South Carolina — Pro- 
 ductions of the Soil — Rice — Indigo — Cotton — 
 Tobacco — Maize — Hemp — Implements of Hus- 
 bandry — Waggons — Sledges — Grasses — Pas- 
 ture Lands — Manufactures — Iron Foundries 
 —Gunpowder — Grist Mills — Manufactories of 
 Cordage — Commerce of South Carolina — Neu- 
 tral Trade — Conduct of the Belligerents— Ex- 
 ports from Charleston, 
 
 Arts, sciences, and literature, receive but little 
 encouragement in South Carolina. The sports 
 of the field, the pleasures of the bottle, and the 
 conviviality of the table, have more charms for a 
 Carolinian, than philosophical inquiries, or the 
 study of the Belies Lettres ; yet some few have 
 distinguished themselves as writers, upon the local 
 or general history of the country, and the revo- 
 lutionary war. Among the most recent are Dr. 
 Ramsay and Governor Drayton. To the latter 
 gentleman I am indebted for much of the infor- 
 mation I have obtained concerning the climate and 
 
NEWSPAPERS. 
 
 44 
 
 diseases, agriculture, and manufactures of that 
 state. 
 
 There are three newspapers published daily in 
 Charleston. The City Gazette and the Courier are 
 morning papers, but of totally opposite political 
 principles. The former is violently democratic, 
 and the latter as violently federal. Each,, of 
 course, favours the French or English nations, 
 as best suits with their politics : and, like other 
 party papersJn the states, they copy only those 
 paragraphs from foreign papers, which tell well 
 on their own side. The Times is an afternoon 
 paper, and, in politics, adopts a medium between 
 the two others. It copies impartially from the 
 English and French papers, and the editor seldom 
 troubles the public with any political disquisition 
 of his own. All the papers are well stocked with 
 advertisements, among which, prime Congo, Gam- 
 bia, and Angola slaves for sale at Gadsden's 
 wharf, were very conspicuous before the aboli- 
 tion of that inhuman traffic; at present, rwfrawag 
 negroes, auctions, stores, and sheriff's sales, fill 
 up most of the columns ; and with long, fulsome" 
 paragraphs in praise of the dead, leave but little 
 space for the news of the day. Advertisements 
 are often drawn up in a ludicrous style ; and re 
 wards offered for lost or stolen property, that are 
 not likely to facilitate their recovery. One cent 
 reward is sometimes offered to those who wiii 
 apprehend a negro fellow, or wench, that has ab- 
 
444 DIVISIONS OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 sconded from a plantation ; and I once saw a 
 reward of thirty-nine lashes offered for the reco- 
 very of a pair of saddle bags, which had been 
 
 stolen off a horse ; and " that any d d rascal 
 
 who stole them, and would return the same to 
 Thomas Stokes, should receive the above re- 
 ward!" 
 
 South Carolina may be divided into lower, 
 middle, and upper country; for the soil, pro- 
 ductions, and political economy of the inhabit- 
 ants of those divisions, exhibit considerable vari- 
 ation and diversity of character. The lower 
 country, rising gradually from the sea-shore to a 
 ridge of sand-hills, about sixty miles back, is dis- 
 tinguished by its level surface, its inlets,, creeks, 
 marshes, and islands; its swamps, bays, and pine 
 barrens. The middle country, commencing at 
 the sand hills, is in general barren, and unpro- 
 ductive ; but in the neighbourhood of large rivers 
 the soil is of excellent quality. The upper 
 country commences from the hills of Santee, and 
 the falls of the river. It is distinguished by its 
 rising grounds, loose stones, beds of rock, and 
 towards the extremity of the state, by enormous 
 mountains. The soil of this division is in general 
 good, but requires much labour and industry in 
 its cultivation. As there are few or no slaves in 
 this part of the state, the business devolves almost 
 entirely upon the farmer and his family, who 
 thus approach nearer in their manners to the in- 
 
INCOMES OF THE PLANTERS. 445 
 
 habitants of the New England states, than the 
 planters and farmers of the middle and lower 
 country. 
 
 Land is originally holden by grant, signed by 
 the respective governors of the state, under seal 
 of the same, conveying an estate of inheritance 
 in free and common soccage; and is attended with 
 no other expense, on obtaining the grant, than the 
 payment of certain small fees of office. It is in- 
 herited by the laws of this state in equal shares, 
 amongst all of the same degree ; and if sold, is 
 conveyed by lease and release, feoffment with de- 
 livery, or by simple deed, according to a late act 
 of the legislature, passed for that purpose. Few 
 lands are holden on lease ; or if they be, the 
 leases are for short terms, and liberal conditions, 
 and in general the lands are possessed and tilled 
 by the rightful owners of the soih 
 
 The incomes of the planters and farmers are 
 various, ranging from 80,000 to 40 dollars. Very 
 few, however, receive incomes of the magnitude 
 of the former sum, Many receive from 12,000 
 to 20,000 dollars per annum ; but the majority 
 of the planters are only in the annual receipt of 
 from 3,000 to 6,000 dollars. The estates of these 
 latter may be worth from twenty to forty thou- 
 sand dollars. The farmers are on a smaller scale; 
 and their incomes may be said to range between 
 2,000 and 40 dollars. The best lands in South 
 Carolina, which are tidt-swamps, if cultivated. 
 
440 HOUSES. 
 
 have sold for 170 dollars per acre. In general, 
 , however, they sell from 70 to 90 dollars an acre, 
 on a credit of one or two years. Uncultivated 
 tide- land sells proportionally lower. Inland 
 swamps, if cultivated, sell at prices between 20 
 and 50 dollars per acre. Good cotton land has 
 sold in Beaufort district as high as 60 dollars 
 per acre ; its value, however, in general, in dif- 
 ferent parts of the state, is from six to forty dol- 
 lars ; the price depending much on its situation, 
 as that nearest the sea, for instance, is consi- 
 dered the most valuable, and produces the finest 
 cotton. Other high lands sell from one to six 
 dollars an acre, according: to their respective si- 
 tuations and conveniences for navigation. 
 
 The buildings are as various as the value of 
 estates, ranging in value between 30,000 and 20 
 dollars. They are commonly built of wood ; 
 some, however, are constructed of brick; though 
 they are principally in the cities and towns. Of 
 late years, building has been carried on with spirit 
 throughout the state, and houses of brick and 
 wood erected suitable to the improvement of the 
 manners and comforts of society. The house:* 
 are, for the most part, built of one or two stories, 
 according to the taste and abilities of the owner. 
 One peculiarity, however, may be remarked re- 
 specting them, which is, that piazzas are gene- 
 rally attached to their southern front, as well for 
 the convenience of walking therein during the 
 
HUSBANDRY OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 447 
 
 day, as for preventing the sun's too great in- 
 fluence on the interior of the house, and the out- 
 offices and kitchens are rarely connected with 
 the principal dwelling, being placed at a distance 
 from it, of thirty or forty yards. The houses of 
 the poorest sort of people, are made of logs, let 
 into each other at the ends, and their interstices 
 filled up with moss, straw, and clay. The roofs 
 are covered with clap-boards. Their plan is 
 simple, as they consist of only one or two rooms ; 
 and the manners of their tenants are equally plain. 
 From the modern settlements of South Caro- 
 lina, those improvements in her husbandry have 
 not yet taken place, which in older nations, have 
 proceeded under happy influences. Nature has 
 been so kind to the soil of this state, and adapted 
 it to such early and productive vegetation, that 
 the exertions of the cultivator are not called forth 
 so particularly, as are necessary in less favourable 
 situations. Hence all the art of manuring, and 
 rotation of crops have, hitherto, been little at- 
 tended to ; and when one piece of land has been 
 exhausted by culture, another has been cleared 
 of woods for similar purposes. The ease of mak- 
 ing this change, without the necessity of con- 
 tinually forming heaps of manure, has of course 
 led to a slovenliness in husbandry, which, to an 
 experienced farmer, would bespeak ignorance and 
 inattention. This, however, is not the case, as 
 tht crops generally produce good returns, and the 
 
448 PRODUCTIONS OF THE SOlfc. 
 
 necessaries of life may be obtained in that sfatfe 
 with as much ease, as perhaps any part of the 
 world can supply. 
 
 In. the husbandry of South Carolina, two ob- 
 jects are particularly kept in view by the plan- 
 ters and farmers. The first is, to raise something 
 for sale; and the second is, to procure provisions 
 for family concerns. To the first, the principal 
 attention is directed, as being the source from 
 whence all pecuniary advancements are made ; 
 while the other is only attended to as opportuni- 
 ties permit. Hence, skill is chiefly observable in 
 matters relating to primary objects ; and in se^ 
 condary oues, much is left ta accidental circum- 
 stances. In the lower country, cotton and rice 
 are cultivated largely for sale; while Indian 
 corn, cow peas, and long potatoes, are only 
 planted sufficient for the yoarly consumption of 
 the settlement: and on many of the tide-swarnp 
 rice plantations, no provisions but potatoes, are 
 planted ; their produce being only equal to the 
 support of the plantation for a few months. 
 The rest is supplied by the purchase of Indian 
 corn, brought down the rivers from the middle 
 parts of the state, and also imported fiein some 
 of the United States. 
 
 In the middle country, cotton, and Indian 
 corn are principally raised for sa-le ; and tlie pro- 
 duce of all kinds of grain is so abundant, ' tha£ 
 there is no want of provision for the support of 
 
RICE, INDIGO, COTTON. 449 
 
 life. In the upper country, tobacco is the prin- 
 cipal object for sale; and its inhabitants have 
 lately turned their attention towards the raising 
 of cotton, with good prospects of success: wheat 
 and hemp are also raised there, for sale; to- 
 gether with horses, and stock of different kinds. 
 Flax is cultivated for the convenience of family 
 concerns. In some parts of the upper country 
 stones and rocks are met with on the summit of 
 ridges ; but the lands in culture, are seldom so 
 much troubled with them as to render it neces- 
 sary either to collect them in heaps, or afford 
 materials for building stone walls ; the enclo- 
 sures are therefore generally made of split rails, 
 which being placed on each other in an angular 
 manner, constitutes what is called a. worm fence. 
 In the middle and lower parts of South Carolina, 
 the soil is free from rocks and stones, and con- 
 sists chiefly of swamps, sands, and clay with a 
 slight intermixture of gravel, at intervals. 
 
 Rice was first planted in South Carolina, about 
 the year 1688, when, by chance, a little of it, of 
 a small unprofitable kind, was introduced into 
 the state. In the year 1696, a bag of a larger and 
 whiter rice, was presented by the captain of a 
 brigantine from Madagascar, to the governor, 
 who divided it between several gentlemen. Some 
 time afterwards Mr. Da Bois, treasurer to the 
 British East India company, sent another parcel 
 
 VOL, II. G Q 
 
450 RICE, INDIGO, COTTON 
 
 of rice; which probably made the distinction' 
 which now prevails, between white and gold 
 rice. In its early cultivation, rice was planted 
 on high land; but it being observed, that this 
 plant not only required the richest kind ofland, 
 but also frequent flowings of water, the plan- 
 ters were naturally led from the high lands to the 
 fresh water swamps. To these situations it was 
 found perfectly adapted, and rice immediately 
 became the great staple of the country. It was 
 now that importations were made with great 
 avidity ; and the proceeds of a crop instead of 
 being spent in dissipated living, as they are at 
 this day,, were economised, to increase the exer- 
 tions of the ensuing year. Hence property was 
 rapidly accumulated, and people from all parts 
 were encouraged to try their fortunes in South 
 Carolina. 
 
 Indigo was formerly a great source of wealth 
 to this state, being introduced into it about the 
 year 1745: and such was the success with which 
 it was cultivated, that in less than two years 
 200,000 lbs. weight of indigo were exported to 
 England. From that time its culture was much 
 attended to throughout the lower, and in some 
 situations, in the middle parts of the state ; and 
 many fortunes were made by pursuing this 
 branch of agriculture. Since the commencement- 
 of the wars which have disturbed Europe fot 
 
COTTON, 
 
 451 
 
 several years past, and in consequence of large 
 importations from the East Indies, its cultivation 
 has ceased to be profitable, so that a very small 
 quantity is now planted in South Carolina. The 
 lands which were suitable to the growth of this 
 plant, are fortunately well adapted to the culti- 
 vation of cotton : hence, by an easy transition, 
 and without much expense, the indigo planters, 
 driven by necessity to search out other sources 
 of industry, have directed their attention to the 
 planting of cotton ; and the success they have 
 experienced ought to stimulate the British go- 
 vernment to accomplish the same thing with re- 
 gard to hemp in Canada, where every thing is 
 congenial to its success, were only a right system 
 adopted. 
 
 Cotton is noticed as an article of export in 
 South Carolina as early as the year 1754 ; but it 
 is only within the last twenty years, that it has 
 become a staple commodity, and surpassed* in 
 value, the greatest crops of rice or indigo that 
 have ever been made in the state. The planter 
 sells his cotton to the merchant at least for one 
 shilling, and generally for one shilling and six- 
 pence sterling the pound. In the year 1799, 
 good cotton found an immediate sale in Charles- 
 ton for 2s. 4d. and 2s. 8d. the pound ; and it is 
 said, that what is called the island or sea-shore 
 cotton, is at least equal, in fineness and strength 
 of staple, to that of Jamaica. SiiK^ the embargo 
 
452 *©*A€C0, MAIZE, HEM*. 
 
 the best cotton, sold for lOd. and the inferior, 
 from 4d, to 6d. the pound; and frequently no sale 
 was to be found for it, at any price. 
 
 In South Carolina, tobacco is cultivated under 
 some disadvantages ; among which, the expense 
 and trouble of bringing it to market, is not the 
 least to be encountered. It is grown principally 
 in the upper country, remote from markets and 
 navigation, where, although the land is well 
 suited to its culture, yet no plantations of large 
 extent, have yet been established. Each farmer 
 plants a small field ; which, though separately 
 considered, cannot produce any considerable 
 quantity, yet when collected for exportation, it 
 forms a mass by no means unworthy the attention 
 of the merchant. 
 
 Maize, or Indian corn, is much cultivated in 
 South Carolina, both for home consumption and 
 exportation. Like tobacco it is indigenous to 
 America, or was obtained by the Indians from 
 some other parts, long before the discovery of the 
 continent. It consists of several varieties, of 
 which the gourd and flint kind are principally 
 planted. The difference between these kinds of 
 corn is, that the gourd is floury, and wastes 
 much in the grinding ; whereas the flint is more 
 hard and nourishing, and grinds more into grist. 
 Another peculiarity, which marks their difference, 
 is, that the flint corn grows principally in the 
 lower country, degenerating in the middle and 
 
TOBACCO, MAIZE,, HEMP. 453 
 
 upper country into gourd corn; and the gourd 
 corn, if brought from the middle and upper 
 country, is said to change into a more flinty 
 kind. 
 
 Hemp is grown in the upper country for sale, 
 particularly between Broad and Saluda rivers, 
 on what is called the Dutch Fork. Flax is also 
 grown, but only for domestic use; as are gene- 
 rally all kinds of small European grain. Wheat, 
 however, in parts adjacent to good flour mills, is 
 an exception to this; for wherever mills are si- 
 tuated, a great encouragement is given to the 
 growth of this valuable grain. The produce of 
 Wheat, in the upper country, where almost every 
 one cultivates a little for domestic use, is generally 
 about fifteen bushels to the acre; but where the 
 ground is well tilled, and the wheat ploughed in, 
 (as is done by a few of the best farmers) the pro- 
 duce is from twenty to twenty five bushels the 
 acre. A slovenly practice too much prevails, of 
 sowing the wheat over the Indian corn fields, 
 after the corn is gathered in, without having 
 giving it any preparation whatever, except per- 
 haps, ploughing the seed (after it is sown) into 
 the land; yet even in this careless manner the pro- 
 duce is frequently twelve bushels the acre. The 
 reason which the farmers give for not setting those 
 wheat crops in a better manner is, that in this 
 way, they make with ease, and with little atten- 
 dance as much wheat as their household concern* 
 
454 IMPLEMENTS OF HUSBANDRY. 
 
 require; that to make more would be unnecessary, 
 as they cannot conveniently transport so bulky an 
 article any distance for sale. Canals and roads 
 are, however, now constructing throughout the 
 state, and will, in a few years, afford the back 
 se.ttlers every facility to dispose of their produce. 
 Silk was formerly raised in South Carolina and 
 Georgia ; but it is now unattended to, though it 
 appears that mulberry trees, and silk worms, are 
 the spontaneous production? of the country. 
 
 The implements of huibandry used in South 
 Carolina, are few and simple : they consist of 
 various ploughs, such as the bar-share, shovel, 
 fluke, single coulter, cutter and drill; harrows, 
 fioes, spades, waggons, carts, and sledges. Ploughs 
 are chiefly used in the middle and upper country, 
 where labourers are few, and the soil tenacious 
 and stubborn. In the lower country they are 
 but partially used, although the planters would 
 probably find it their interest to adopt them 
 more generally. In some cases they cultivate a 
 cotton and Indian corn crop by the plough; but 
 they are oftener done with the hoe, which may 
 be considered as the principal instrument of hus- 
 bandry in the lower country. The spade is used 
 chiefly for ditching and draining the rice lands. 
 But the hoe is used for cultivating them. In 
 some tide, and inland plantations, however, where 
 the ground is strong, and has been kept sufficiently 
 dry, ploughs are used with great advantage. 
 
WAGGONS, SLEDGES. £55 
 
 Waggons and sledges, are principally used in 
 the middle and upper country, the first for tran- 
 sporting heavy articles to a distance, and the last 
 for drawing wood, rails, and small timber, about 
 a settlement In the lower country, ox carts, 
 capable of carrying three or four barrels of rice^ 
 are almost solely, the mode of land Carriage for 
 the rice planters. They are drawn by three or 
 four yoke of oxen, and attended by two or three 
 negro drivers. 
 
 There are upwards of sixteen different grasses 
 indigenous to South Carolina; but in general, 
 little attention is paid to the forming of pasture 
 and meadow lands. The cattle are sent into the 
 woods to graze, and the culture of cotton, rice, 
 and maize, becomes the chief object of the plan- 
 ter and farmer's attention. Some lands in the 
 vicinity of Charleston are, however, converted 
 into fields for mowing, as the high price of hay, 
 in that neighbourhood, renders this branch of 
 agriculture a profitable business; but the greatest 
 proportion of hay is brought from the northern 
 states in the packet vessels. In general the cattle 
 is fed during winter upon the leaves and blades 
 of the Indian corn, rice-straw, &c. Horses and 
 poultry are fed with the corn, which, together 
 with rice, also form the principal food of the 
 negroes. The white inhabitants arc extremely 
 fond of the corn bruised, and boiled into a pud- 
 ding, wich they call hominy. It is eaten with 
 
456 MANUFACTURES. 
 
 milk, sugar, and butter, and is a favourite dish at 
 breakfast. 
 
 While agriculture is so much attended to, and 
 the means of engaging in it so easy, it is not sur- 
 prizing that few direct their attention to manu- 
 factures. Some years ago, a cotton manufactory 
 was established near Statesborough, which bid 
 fair to rise into consideration. It was, however, 
 soon perceived that the price of labour was too 
 great to permit its goods to stand any competition 
 with those of similar qualities imported from Great 
 Britain ; consequently the proprietors were ob- 
 liged to discontinue their operations. A nume- 
 rous population, and scarcity of lands must first 
 be experienced in a country, before its inhabitants 
 will resort to manufactures, while a more eligible 
 mode of subsistence exists. In the upper country, 
 however, necessity has obliged the inhabitants to 
 provide for their respective wants from their own 
 resources, in consequence of the difficulty and 
 expense of conveying bulky articles from the sea- 
 coast to the interior. The traveller there, soon 
 becomes accustomed to the humming music of the 
 spinning wheel and the loom. Cottons and 
 woollens of various descriptions, are made in 
 sufficient quantities for domestic use ; and if we 
 except the articles of salt and sugar, the people 
 in the upper parts of the state may be considered 
 independent of foreign support; for carpenters, 
 smiths, masons, tanners, shoemakers, sadlers, hat- 
 
IRON FOUNDRIES. 457 
 
 ters, millwrights, and other tradesmen, are conve- 
 niently situated throughout the country ; and the 
 materials necessary for their respective professions, 
 are met with in abundance. 
 
 Iron ore being found in groat plenty in different 
 parts of the state, has given rise to several manu- 
 factories of iron : of these, the iron works of 
 Messrs. Hill and Ilayne in the upper country are 
 by far the most complete and extensive. They 
 consist of a forge of four fires, and two hammers, 
 for manufacturing iron, from pig iron; a furnace 
 for melting the ore, and making castings there- 
 from ; and a rolling mill, and nail manufactory. 
 The nail manufactory consists of two large cutters 
 worked by water, a smaller one worked by hand, 
 and seven iron headers, for heading spikes and 
 nails. The hearth stones used for the works, are 
 within a mile of them, in great plenty, of a coarse 
 gritty nature, resembling a grindstone, dressing 
 easily, and standing well the heat of the furnace. 
 At these works, heavy cannon have been cast ; 
 and iron four-pounders have lately been made for 
 the use of the artillery companies attached to the 
 different regiments of infantry belonging to the 
 state. Gannon ball is also cast there, when 
 ordered. Besides these heavy articles, the inha- 
 bitants are supplied with various articles for do- 
 mestic use, as chimney backs, gudgeons, cranks, 
 pots, kettles, skillets, hammers for forges, boxes 
 for cart and waggon wheels, &c. The iron ore is 
 
458 CRIST MILLS, 
 
 dug from the vicinity of a small mountain within 
 a mile and a half of the works. It is found in 
 large masses, and a ton generally produces about 
 500 lbs. of good metal. These works are not 
 blown by a common bellows, but by a water Mast, 
 which Mr. Hill has much simplified and im- 
 proved from the original invention, and has adap- 
 ted to the purposes of the forge. The air of this 
 blast is produced in a particular manner, by the 
 suction of water which runs violently down a 
 perpendicular funnel, striking against the receiver 
 at the bottom, and from thence forced to ascend a 
 spout, which is directed to the fire, at the same 
 moment that the water is discharged from the 
 receiver ; and thus a constant and steady blast is 
 produced as long as the water is allowed to run- 
 The utility and simplicity of this process is such, 
 ' that it is now almost the only method used, for 
 blowing the fires of the forges and furnaces in 
 the upper country. 
 
 Gunpowder is occasionally manufactured in 
 the interior of South Carolina ; not, however, by 
 a regular set of mills, but in a small way, and as 
 exigencies may require. In general, the inhabi- 
 tants are supplied with that article, and saltpetre, 
 from Tennessee and Kentucky. 
 
 A variety of mills for grinding wheat and pack* 
 ing flour, for sawing timber, and making oil, are 
 scattered over the country. Three rope-walks 
 have also been established of late years :— two 
 
GRIST MILLS. 459 
 
 &ear Charleston and the other at Columbia .The 
 latter manufactures about 80 tons of cordage in 
 the year, from hemp raised upon the lands in the 
 adjacent country. From this manufactory the 
 ropes and cables were obtained for the first equip- 
 ment of the John Adams frigate of 32 guns, built 
 at Charleston in 1799. 
 
 Previous to the revolutionary war, the exports 
 of South Carolina amounted, upon an average, 
 to 500,000/. sterling, and consisted principally of 
 rice, indigo, tobacco, deer skins, pitch, tar, tur- 
 pentine, salt provisions, Indian corn, and lumber. 
 During the war, agriculture and commerce were 
 both materially injured. The usual supplies of 
 clothing from the mother-country being stopped, 
 manufactories were established, and the negroes 
 were for the most part clothed with mixed cloths 
 of cotton and wool, spun and woven for the oc- 
 casion. Many negroes were taken from agrL 
 cultural pursuits, as well to assist at these manu- 
 factures, as to carry on the erection of fortifica- 
 tions, and other public works ; in consequence 
 of which, the articles for exportation naturally 
 decreased, or, when collected, were consumed at 
 home, alternately, by friends and foes. 
 
 At the conclusion of the war it appeared, that 
 the agriculture and commerce of South Carolina 
 had retrograded nearly 47 years backwards, the 
 exports of 1783 being scarcely equal to those of 
 1736. The internal consumption, however, must 
 
460 COMMERCE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 
 
 have been greater, but the loss to the state was 
 the same. Since that period her agriculture and 
 commerce have rapidly augmented, though in 
 some degree counteracted by the partial prohibi- 
 tion of the importation of negroes for several 
 years past, and which was fully carried into exe- 
 cution on the 1st of January, 1808. From year 
 to year, new prospects have presented themselves; 
 new objects of agriculture have arisen ; and the 
 loss of one staple has been supplied by another 
 of superior value : cotton is now the most valu- 
 able export of South Carolina. 
 
 Since the French Revolution, Charleston has 
 been the medium of the greatest part of that 
 trade, which has been carried on between the 
 French West India islands, and the mother-coun- 
 try, under the neutral flag of the United States. 
 In this manner, quantities of cocoa, coffee, sugar, 
 rum, indigo, and other articles, the produce of 
 the French, Spanish, and Dutch possessions in the 
 West Indies and South America, are included in 
 the exports of South Carolina, from the year 
 1793, which, in time of peace, are directly ex- 
 ported from the colonies to the mother-country. 
 Within these few years, much of this neutral traf- 
 fic has been gradually abolished, by the restric- 
 tive decrees and orders of council of the two 
 great belligerent Powers, in return for which the 
 Americans have retaliated by a general embargo ; 
 
COMMERCE OF SOUTH CAROLINA. 461 
 
 with what success remains to be seen. The num- 
 ber of vessels that entered the port of Charleston 
 in 1801, amounted to 1,274, of which 875 be- 
 longed to that port ; the rest were chiefly British 
 vessels. At the time the embargo reached Charles- 
 ton, the number of vessels in port, were ships 78, 
 brigs 42, schooners and sloops 85 — total 205. 
 
462 
 
 EXPORTS FROM CHARLESTON. 
 
 |3 
 
 ft) 
 
 c "•? 
 
 « O 
 
 "o o 
 So 
 
 II 
 
 o © 
 & tH 
 
 ■§» 
 
 - a. 
 
 & 
 
 B 
 
 ■w .x 
 
 s j & 
 
 o 6 
 
 ,•*; O fl 
 
 afl "*? S3 
 
 "Ma 
 
 a S * 
 
 -2 5 73 
 
 CO r~ 
 
 1 O C3 
 
 'CO > 
 
 o 
 a. 
 
 IS. 
 
 O « 
 
 5<g 
 
 2P§ 
 
 5P*^ C GO-* NH O CO 
 -SCOOO^O-tO-. 
 ^ «S. O <-• -* Oi CO O »0 
 32 © O oo rC QD O <0 CO 
 
 .CSCO'OCOCSlTft^Ttf 
 
 H 
 
 co o<c o<o 
 
 10 -* N. Oi O 
 
 t* 'tf. (N CO ~ 
 
 10 ^ O 00 ^f 
 
 <© CO "* "<t CO 
 
 CO co en co c* 
 
 M H « CI 
 
 WJO 
 G 
 
 E 
 
 •j d 
 
 W5 So 
 
 *.9 
 
 O 
 
 pq 
 
 Q 
 
 co O co 
 
 rs. 
 
 W 
 
 •0 
 
 Oi'O 
 
 § 
 
 »C '© 
 
 on 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 op 
 
 'O 
 
 5' 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 CO TT 1 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 pH 
 
 «©=D 
 
 co o 
 © 'O 
 
 O CO CO tv,CO 
 Oi QO -r# <N Oi 
 CN CS © Ci Oi 
 
 S 3 
 
 cq 8"e 
 
 O <N *0 
 
 ^ CO O 
 
 M 
 
 id 
 
 
 
 
 J-J 
 
 en 
 
 
 V 
 
 
 
 M 
 
 JQ 
 
 ..O 
 
 Q 
 
 CO 
 
 
 
 
 
 COKM 
 
 a 
 
 n 
 
 co 
 
 — i 
 
 O; 
 
 O 
 
 CT, 
 
 « 
 
 «rj 
 
 rr 
 
 •0 
 
 ~o 
 
 — ■ 
 
 © 
 
 PS 
 
 CO 
 
 00 
 
 
 
 
 
 "* «* O O O <0 co o-.\ 
 
 O <N 
 
 8© >n O »o t 
 O CO, l>» *^ CO 
 
 lOptpCO©KNKQOXCO Oi Oi Oi O O 
 
463 
 
 CHAP. XL. 
 
 Climate of South Carolina^—Musquitos — Dread- 
 ful Wh irlwin d — Tremendo us Clo ud— Trees 
 torn up — Plantations destroyed — Storms of 
 Hail — Immense Hailstones — Remarkable Sleet 
 Sudden changes of Weather— State of the 
 Weather in Charleston for 1807 — Stranger* s 
 Fever — Mountains covered with Snow — Vicis- 
 situdes of Climate — Diseases — Typhus ict erodes, 
 
 or Yellow Fever Dr. Johnson*s Medical 
 
 Oration — Progress of the Weather — Sickness 
 and Deaths at Charleston in 1807 — Distressing 
 drought— The Comet — Lunar influences — Tides 
 — Thermometer — - Vaccination — Dy sentry — 
 Influenza — Yellow Fever — Obituary from the 
 Bills of Mortality in Charleston during Jive 
 Years. 
 
 From the diversity of soil, and situation in 
 South Carolina, it necessarily results, that there 
 is a diversity of temperature in its climate. The 
 upper country from its elevated situation, and 
 near affinity to the mountains, possesses a dry 
 elastic atmosphere, extremely conducive to 
 health : the heat of the day during summer is 
 not oppressive, and the night partakes of a re- 
 
43^ CLMATfc,. 
 
 freshing coolness. The climate of tin* middle 
 country rcsemhles that of the upper and lower 
 divisions, as influenced by situation. The lower 
 country, from many cause?, differs materially 
 from the other districts. Continually intersected 
 by multitudes of swamps, bays, and low grounds, 
 and having large reservoirs of water, and Free- 
 fields at particular times overflowed, the elasti- 
 city of the atmosphere is weakened ; and its tonic 
 power consequently reduced. The waters thus 
 spread over the face of the country, and exposed 
 to the action of a powerful sun, become un- 
 friendly to health, and acquire a considerable de- 
 gree of mephitic influence ; while the evapora- 
 tion thus occasioned, added to the perspiration 
 of vegetables, completely saturate the atmo- 
 sphere with a profusion of humidity, which is 
 precipitated upon the surrounding country, either 
 in heavy rains, or copious dews. Hence fogs of 
 much density cover the low lands throughout 
 the night, during the summer months, and are 
 dispelled in the morning by the rising sun or 
 agitating winds. 
 
 When such is the situation of the lower coun- 
 try, it is not surprizing that the months parti- 
 cularly influenced by heat should be chequered 
 by sickness, among those who imprudently ex- 
 pose themselves to the cold damps of the night, 
 or the feverish heats of the day ; and accordingly 
 from June to November, we find intermittent 
 
MUSQUITOS, 465 
 
 fevers prevailing throughout the middle and lower 
 country, in those parts adjacent to fresh water. 
 The heavy rains generally commence in June 
 and July ; and until their waters have become in 
 some measure stagnant, and putrefaction is pro- 
 duced, the health of the lower country is not par , 
 ticularly affected • but when weeds and vegeta- 
 bles have arrived at their rankest growth, and 
 putrefactions are excited by the operations of 
 heat and moisture, the atmosphere then becomes 
 hurtful to the animal system. The same effects 
 are also produced from similar causes in Georgia 
 and East Florida, consequently the winds from 
 those countries in autumn, are much charged 
 with mephitic qualities, and south-west winds in 
 summer produce a feverish degree of heat, which 
 greatly increases the bilious fevers, and other 
 diseases, at Charleston. 
 
 During the hot months, many reptiles and in- 
 sects are engendered by the stagnant waters ; 
 among these, none are so troublesome as the mus- 
 quitos; for though they in some measure shun 
 the heat of the day, yet they are at night parti- 
 cularly teazing to all those who venture to sleep 
 exposed to their attacks. No person can lie 
 dowi^with any prospect of a night's repose in 
 comfort, without being guarded from them by a 
 gauze pavilion, or canopy placed over his bed. 
 
 Although situate in the temperate, yet by 
 its near affinity to the torrid zone, South Caro- 
 
 VOLII. HH 
 
466 DREADFUL WHIRLWIND.. 
 
 Una is placed in a situation, which exposes her 
 to the conflicts of elements, in a greater degree 
 than some of the more northern states. To this 
 cause may be ascribed the destructive whirlwinds 
 which sometimes lay waste parts of the country ) 
 one of which is described by Dr. Chalmers of 
 Charleston in the following manner : 
 
 "About ten o'clock in the morning, on the 
 4th of May,, 1764, a dreadful whirlwind was said 
 to be observed in the Indian country, above three 
 hundred miles to the westward of Charleston, 
 which, between one and two in the afternoon of 
 the same day, was seen approaching us very fast 
 in a direct line, and not three miles from the 
 town. But when it had advanced to the distance 
 of about half a mile from us, it was providen- 
 tially opposed by another whirlwind, which came 
 from the north-east ; and crossing the point of 
 land on which Charleston stands, the shock of 
 their junction was so great, as to alter the direc- 
 tion of the former, somewhat more towards the 
 south, whereby great part of this place was pre- 
 served from inevitable destruction. It then passed 
 down Ashley river with such rapidity and vio- 
 lence, that in a few minutes it reached Ilebellion- 
 road, where a large fleet of loaded vessels, with 
 one of his majesty's ships, their convoy, lay, about 
 four or five miles below the town, ready to sail 
 for England ; three of which were overset, and 
 sunk so suddenly, that some people who happened 
 
DREADFUL WHIRLWIND. 467 
 
 to be in one of their cabins had not time to 
 come upon deck. Many of the other ships 
 which, luckily did not lie so immediately exposed 
 to the greatest fury of the tempest, would, how- 
 ever, have shared the same fate, had not their masts 
 given way; for all those whom it passed over, 
 were laid down on their sides ; and the mizen- 
 mast of the king's ship was carried off close to the 
 quarter deck, as smoothly as if it had been cut 
 with a saw. 
 
 " As the people sat at dinner that day, they 
 were alarmed with an unusual sort of stunning 
 noise, as of the ruffling of many drums, inter- 
 mixed with such a roaring, thundering, churning 
 or dashing sound, as the sea makes in breaking 
 on a hollow rocky shore, during a violent storm ; 
 when, on running out of doors, the tremendous 
 cloud was seen advancing at a great rate, with a 
 quick circular motion, its contents seeming in a 
 violent agitation, from the great tumult that ap- 
 peared, not only in the body of the column it- 
 self, but likewise, from the contiguous clouds 
 which drove rapidly towards it from all direc- 
 tions, as if the whole content's of the atmosphere 
 flowed thither, and were instantly absorbed by it, 
 Hence it was, that this meteor every moment ap- 
 peared so differently ; some parts of it being black 
 and dark at times ; others of a flame colour; and 
 again as if vast waves of the sea had risen into 
 the air. But such was the perturbation in the 
 
468 DREADFUL WHIRLWIND 
 
 cloud, that these phenomena varied continually 5 
 all parts of it rolling over each other in the most 
 confused and rapid manner ; and every now and 
 then large branches of trees might be seen hurled 
 about in it. Its diameter was thought to be about 
 300 yards, and the height 30 degrees ; a thick 
 vapour emitted from it, rising much higher. In 
 passing along, it carried the waters of the river 
 before it, in the form of a mountainous wave; so 
 that the bottom was seen in many places. Such 
 floods of water fell on those parts over which it 
 passed, as if a whole sea had been discharged on 
 them at once ; and for a mile or two on each 
 side of it abundance of rain fell. 
 
 tc As the wind ceased presently after the whirl- 
 wind passed, the branches and leaves of various 
 sorts of trees, which had been carried into the air, 
 continued to fall for half an hour, and in their 
 descent appeared like flocks of birds of different 
 sizes. A gentleman, over whose plantation the 
 skirt of this storm passed, not more than two 
 miles from Charleston, assured me, that had a 
 thousand negroes been employed for a whole day 
 in cutting down his trees, they could not have 
 made such a waste of them, as this whirlwind 
 did in less than half a minute. Such trees as 
 were young and pliant stooped to its violence, 
 and afterwards recovered themselves ; but all 
 those which were more inflexible, and firmly 
 rooted, were brokeu off; and hurled away ; so that 
 
STORMS OF HAIL 469 
 
 no part of many of them could afterwards be 
 found. Among these were some live oaks of 
 near two feet diameter, the wood of which is 
 known to be almost as ponderous and as hard as 
 lignum vitce; so that some of them must have 
 weighed perhaps more than two tons : yet heavy 
 as they were, no remains of them could after- 
 wards be discovered any where, except the roots, 
 which were fixed in the earth." 
 
 These dreadful whirlwinds proceed oftener 
 through the upper country, than in the lower 
 parts of the state; and within the circumference 
 of half a mile, will roll over the earth, tear up 
 the largest oaks and other trees in their way, or 
 twist and shiver them to pieces. Storms of hail 
 are also produced, whose effects havo been de- 
 structive to various parts of the state. The hills 
 on either side the Catawba river, near Rocky 
 Mount, can testify tho severity of one which 
 happened there some years ago. The discharge 
 of hailstones was so heavy and large, that the 
 pine trees, which were just putting out their buds 
 in the spring, and were interspersed among the 
 oaks and hickeries on the hills, were completely 
 killed ; and at this day exhibit a wild, and in 
 windy weather an awful appearance, to any one 
 who may be travelling amongst them, whilst they , 
 are rocking to and fro, and successively falling 
 down. Fields of wheat and other grain were 
 beaten to pieces and destroyed ; and hailstones 
 
470 SUDDEN CHANGES OF THE WEATHER. 
 
 remained in the valleys for many days. In April, 
 1793, a similar storm swept through part of 
 Orangeburgh, and ninety-six districts ; and, in 
 1797, one passed along the eastern side of Cooper 
 River, lasting about half an hour, and deposit- 
 ing hailstones three inches in circumference, and 
 six inches in depth, on the ground. The giain 
 in the fields, and the vegetables in the gardens, 
 were totally destroyed; and birds and poultry 
 were killed. 
 
 The commencement of the year 1800 was un- 
 commonly cold, and several falls of snow took 
 place in the months of January and February, 
 some of which covered the grounds of the lower 
 country six inches, and those ot the upper 
 country two or three feet deep, continuing on 
 the latter for some weeks. During this time, a 
 remarkable sleet fell in a space from ten to fifteen 
 miles wide, between Broad River and Savannah. 
 Large concretions of ice were formed on the 
 trees. The lesser ones were bent to the ground 
 by their weight ; but the full grown oaks, hicko- 
 ries, and other forest trees, which did not bend, 
 had their branches broken off in all directions, 
 and the ground for miles was covered with their 
 ruins. At this time the woods in th?.t part of the 
 state present a wild and mutilated appearance ; 
 the tops of the trees broken, and unsightly, and 
 their roots encumbered with dead, fallen branches. 
 
 It also appears, that the climate of South Ca- 
 
SUDDEN CHANGES OF THE WEATHER. 471 
 
 rolina is peculiarly liable to sudden changes of tem- 
 perature ; that in one moment the body is relaxed 
 by heat, and the next chilled by unexpected cold. 
 Thus, profuse perspirations are checked ; and 
 unless the functions of the body are restored to 
 their proper duties, a course of disorders com- 
 mences which, sooner or later destroys the con- 
 stitution. In tropical climates, it is said, the 
 degrees of heat throughout the year, do not vary 
 more than 16 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermo- 
 meter, making thereby little difference between 
 summer and winter. But in South Carolina 
 there is often a variation of 83 degrees between 
 the heat and cold of different days in the same 
 year, in the space of seven months ; and of 46 
 degrees in the different hours of the same day. 
 
 Dr. Chalmers, who published an account of 
 the weather and diseases of South Carolina, in 
 the year 1766, when speaking of the heat inci- 
 dental to the climate, mentions, that in the year 
 1752, he exposed a thermometer at the distance 
 of five feet from the ground, to the rays of the 
 sun, and in fifteen minutes the mercury rose to 
 the utmost height of that instrument which was 
 graduated only to 120 degrees ; and would finally 
 have burst the vessel, had he not withdrawn it. 
 He also believed, from experiments which he 
 afterwards made, that the mercury would have 
 risen 20 degrees higher. It does not, however, 
 follow from this, that the human frame is affected 
 
472 STATE OF THE WEATHER IN CHARLESTON. 
 
 in a proportionate degree ; as the Doctor evinced,, 
 by placing the thermometer under his arm, where 
 the mercury fell six degrees lower, than what it 
 stood in the shaded air : and it is reasonable it 
 should be so, as the same cause which throws off 
 heat from boiling water by steam, may also expel 
 it from animals by perspiration. The following 
 statement exhibits the greatest and least height 
 of Fahrenheit's thermometer for several years 
 past : 
 
 Years. 
 
 Highest 
 
 Lowest. 
 
 Years. 
 
 Highest. 
 
 Lowest. 
 
 1750 
 
 96 
 
 23 
 
 1759 
 
 93 
 
 VJ6 
 
 1751 
 
 94 
 
 18 
 
 1791 
 
 90 
 
 28 
 
 1752 
 
 101 
 
 32 
 
 1792 
 
 93 
 
 30 
 
 1753 
 
 91 
 
 28 
 
 1793 
 
 89 
 
 30 
 
 1754 
 
 93 
 
 22 
 
 1794 
 
 91 
 
 34 
 
 1755 
 
 90 
 
 26 
 
 1795 
 
 92 
 
 29 
 
 1756 
 
 96 
 
 27 
 
 1796 
 
 89 
 
 17 
 
 1757 
 
 90 
 
 25 
 
 1797 
 
 88 
 
 22 
 
 1758 
 
 94 
 
 25 
 
 1798] 
 
 88 
 
 3) 
 
 STATE OF THE WEATHER IN CHARLESTON, 
 1807, ENDING DECEMBER 31. 
 
 FOR 
 
 Thermometer, fiighest 
 
 92° 30' 
 
 Ditto lowest 
 
 24° - 
 
 Ditto mean 
 
 58° 15' 
 
 Barometer 
 
 30° 1' to 30* 
 
 Hygrometer 
 
 1 to 131 
 
 Fall of rain 
 
 42 inches H 
 
 Prevailing winds 
 
 N.E. S.W. 
 
 Days of rain 
 
 67 
 
 Do. of thunder 
 
 28 
 
 Do. of snow 
 
 2 
 
stranger's fever. 473 
 
 from the preceding statement it appears, that 
 the greatest heat of South Carolina is eight de- 
 grees less than it was about half a century ago, 
 and that the cold has increased one degree more. 
 Without going, however, into nice disquisitions;, 
 whether the state is hotter or colder, more wet 
 or more dry than it was fifty years ago, its cli- 
 mate is, doubtless, in a state of progressive ame- 
 lioration. At its first settlement, Charleston was 
 said to be so unhealthy, in the autumnal months, 
 that from June to October, the public offices 
 were shut up, and the people retired into the 
 country. Now the reverse happens, and plan- 
 ters come in those months to the city, but by far 
 the greater number still remain in the country 
 on their plantations. Charleston, however, is yet 
 subject to epidemic fevers; but it seldom hap- 
 pens that the natives suffer from them ; which 
 has occasioned them to call the prevailing disease, 
 the " Stranger's Fever ;" and some of the inhabit- 
 ants are absolutely of opinion, that if strangers 
 were forbidden to visit the city during the au- 
 tumnal months, the yellow fever would not make 
 its appearance. 
 
 Whatever may be the severity of the seasons 
 in South Carolina, at particulars times, yet it 
 must be allowed that the climate is, upon the 
 whole, agreeable, and the winters remarkably 
 fine. The upper country has, however, greatly 
 jhe advantage of the lower parts of the state; 
 
474 VICISSITUDES OF THE CLIMATE. 
 
 and its inhabitants in general enjoy much better 
 health; though during the winter months, 
 strangers from the northern states resort much to 
 Charleston for the recovery of their health, or to 
 avoid the piercing coldness of their own climate 
 . at that season of the year. 
 
 During a part of the winter, the mountains at 
 the farthest boundary of South Carolina are often 
 covered with snow ; but from thence to the sea 
 shore, it seldom falls. Whenever snow appears 
 in the lower country, it mostly happens in the 
 months of December and January, covering the 
 ground perhaps not more than an inch, except on 
 extraordinary occasions, and thawing with the 
 first appearance of the sun. In those months, 
 also, the greatest cold is perceivable; the ground 
 is sometimes bound up with a pinching frost, 
 which, in shady places will not be thawed for se- 
 veral days; and the waters of ponds are then so 
 frozen over, as at times to permit sliding, and 
 even skating on the ice. But this happens very 
 rarely, and even then only for a few days ; after 
 which, the weather becomes mild and warm, so 
 as to render fires unnecessary during the middle 
 of the day. 
 
 Throughout the winter, sudden changes from 
 heat to cold often take place, and very ma- 
 terially affect the feelings of the inhabitants. In 
 February the weather is frequently rainy, and 
 may be called uncertain ; as sometimes it offers 
 
VICISSITUDES OF THE CLIMATE. 475 
 
 calm, clear, and fine growing weather,, when all 
 at once the expectations of an early spring are 
 checked by a north-west wind. The vegetation, 
 however, may be said to commence in February ; 
 as at this time the red flowering maple is in full 
 blossom, and soon after followed by the willow 
 and alder. The plumb and peacb trees now 
 quietly put forth their blossoms; and nature 
 clothes herself in cheerful verdure. In March 
 and April, the planters' and farmers' business 
 commences; the planting seasons continuing 
 Until June. From that time, during July and 
 August, the heats increase ; and in the two lat- 
 ter months^ heavy rains set in, attended with se- 
 vere thunder and lightning. In September the 
 evenings and mornings are chilly; but the sun is 
 extremely powerful in the middle of the day. 
 The equinoctial influences are also at hand; 
 storms of rain are produced, accompanied some- 
 times with hurricanes, whichs weep tremendously 
 along the coasts. The leaves of deciduous trees 
 are now continually falling, and nature gra- 
 dually assumes the sombre garb of winter. In 
 October the weather is generally mild and clear ; 
 hoar frosts begin to make their appearance to- 
 wards the latter end of this month; and with 
 them, the fevers, agues and other complaints, 
 engendered by the heats of summer, immediately 
 disappear. The cold comes on in December, and 
 vegetation is checked umtil the returning spring. 
 
476 DISEASES. 
 
 Thus the year is closed in a manner peculiar to 
 the varying climate of South Carolina. 
 
 It appears that there is too much severity iu 
 a Carolinian winter, for the most delicate fruits 
 of southern latitudes, although the summers are 
 well adapted to their growth. Hence sugar-cane, 
 ginger, bread fruit, pine apple, and Banana 
 trees cannot endure the winter, though they grow 
 vigorously during the summer : oranges, lemons, 
 limes, olives, pomegranates, and figs are, how- 
 ever, in some measure naturalized to the soil ; 
 and notwithstanding the severe frosts, which 
 sometimes happen in the winter, occasionally des- 
 troy their stems, they generally shoot forth from 
 the root on the approach of summer. 
 
 It has been said that bilious, remitting, and 
 intermitting fevers, have increased with the clear- 
 ing of lands in South Carolina, from the greater 
 extension which has thus been given to the exha- 
 lation of marsh mias-mata. This may, in some 
 measure, be true ; but there is every reasonto hope, 
 that it is only the consequence of freeing new 
 lands, by cultivation, from the vapours which 
 have been long confined in them. When these 
 shall have been exhaled, and the earth recovered 
 from its sourness to a proper state of cultivation, 
 this evil will probably be remedied. It must, 
 however, be allowed, that as long as swamps and 
 marshes remain, and the culture of rice, &c. in- 
 duces the inhabitants to dwell in their vicinity 
 
TYPHUS ICf ERODES, OR YELLOW FEVER. 477 
 
 the diseases complained of will continue, more or 
 less, to afflict the human frame. Fevers and 
 agues are prevalent during the summer and au- 
 tumn, in the lower country ; as they also are in 
 many parts of the middle and upper countries, in 
 low situations, adjacent to swamps and waters. 
 But all the high lands maybe called healthy; and 
 settlements made in the dry pine barrens, have 
 been found advantageous, in this respect, to many 
 planters whose wishes lead them to reside in the 
 country throughout the year. What the diseases 
 are throughout the state in general, may be some- 
 what ascertained, by inquiring into those inci- 
 dental to Charleston and its vicinity; making 
 always an allowance for a change of situation, 
 from a wet low soil, to a dry and high one. The 
 typhus icterodes, or putrid bilious, or yellow fever 
 is, however, particularly local to Charleston ; and 
 is not known to have originated in the country. 
 To the natives, and old inhabitants of that city, 
 it has not yet been injurious; but to those who 
 come from the country during the autumnal sea- 
 son, or who have not been accustomed to spend 
 the fail months in Charleston ; or to foreigners at 
 their first arrival, it is particularly dreadful ; and 
 many are those who fall victims to its fatal influ- 
 ence. At this day the opinions of the learned 
 differ respecting its origin and cure ; and its 
 violence often baffles the aid of medical skill. 
 Fortunately, however, this scourge is not always 
 
478 dr. Johnson's oration. 
 
 equally dreadful ; for though it is felt with rigour 
 some years, yet in others it is scarcely perceived. 
 
 The following oration delivered before the 
 medical society of South Carolina, at their anni- 
 versary meeting at Charleston, December 24th, 
 1807, by Dr. Johnson, President of that society, 
 will afford the reader a better idea of the present 
 state of the climate and diseases of South Caro- 
 lina, and especially of the city of Charleston, 
 than any other information I could lay before 
 him, in addition to what I have already said 
 upon those subjects : 
 
 "Gentlemen, 
 
 " The diseases prevalent in this city, since the 
 year 1792, being generally the same, and their 
 symptoms varying but little in each succeeding 
 year, since that period, few or no remarks, which 
 to you may' appear novel or interesting, can be 
 expected in their history. A sense of duty to 
 our successors in practice, and to the laws of our 
 society have urged me to this undertaking ; with 
 a reliance, that my endeavours to complete a 
 view of the changes in the weather, and of the 
 diseases to which we are exposed, will meet with 
 your indulgence. 
 
 " The present year ( 1807) set in with the most 
 uniform cold weather that has been known since 
 the commencement of our journal, in the year 
 1793. Occasional showers, alone prevented the 
 
PROGRESS OF THE WEATHER. 479 
 
 occurrence of ice, on every night in January, ex- 
 cept the last. The thermometer, though not so 
 low at any time as in February, stood at a much 
 lower average, having, until the last day of the 
 month, ranged at 33 degrees, and including the 
 heat of the last day, averaged at 36 degrees. On 
 the 18ih, there was a fall of snow. The winds 
 prevailed twenty two days from the northern, 
 and nine from the eastern points of the compass. 
 Throughout the continent, the severity of the 
 cold was in proportion ; in Boston the thermo- 
 meter (probably in an exposed situation ) fell to 0°, 
 and in Portsmouth to eight degrees below 0°.* 
 
 f< Although the coldest day in this, or any other 
 year, since 1796, occurred in February, the aver- 
 age of the thermometer was twelve and three 
 quarters degrees higher than in the preceding 
 month ; on the seventh, sheltered from the wea- 
 ther, it stood at 24 degrees, and when exposed, fell 
 to 16 degrees. 
 
 <s The changes, in February and March, were 
 very great and sudden ; on the sixth the thermo- 
 meter fell 32 degees in seventeen hours, as appears 
 by our diary, and had probably been lower, but 
 again rose, at eight o'clock in the morning, the 
 usual hour of observation. On the 10th it had 
 increased 27 degrees in thirty-one hours and 
 
 * At Quebec, Lower Canada, the thermometer fell on the 
 15th of February of that year to 36 degrees below 0°. 
 
480 DEATH? AT CHARLESTON/ 
 
 many other changes of 15 to 24 degrees were ob- 
 served in short periods daring these months, 
 Snow fell for two hours and a half on the 3d of 
 February, and on the 13th there was smart thun- 
 der. The thermometer fluctuated from 24 to 69 
 degrees. Seven inches and three-tenths of rain 
 fell in this month, and six inches and six and a 
 half tenths in March. The country was over- 
 flowed, and the roads for a time were impassable 
 to carriages. 
 
 " The spring was unusually cold and back- 
 ward ; as late as the 3d of May there was a frost, 
 so that the remark of Goldsmith, respecting the 
 climate of the Alps, was applicable to ours, in 
 this extraordinary season ;— it was 
 
 " Winter lingering in the lap of May." 
 
 The plantations and gardens were much injured 
 by this weather, and in a way as extraordinary as 
 tbe cause. The young crops having been repeat- 
 edly destroyed by frost, they were replaced with 
 great industry, and when the planter thought the 
 danger past, his prospects were blasted by my- 
 riads of caterpillars, which, like the locusts of 
 Egypt, destroyed alike the whole vegetable world. 
 The chenille had been repeatedly observed in cool 
 seasons, but now a species, which, to the asto- 
 nished planter appeared a new creation, not only 
 destroyed the cotton, corn, and rice, but swept 
 even the grass from the meadows, that scarcely a 
 vestige remained. 
 
DEATHS AT CHARLESTON. 481 
 
 <f The spring having been so backward, the 
 accession of summer was as rapid in proportion, 
 and the 11th of June was one of the hottest days 
 to which our climate is subject ; the thermome- 
 ter standing at 92 degrees, in a very cool situa- 
 tion, and at 94 generally through the city. The 
 average heat of July was 86 degrees; a range 
 considerably higher than had been observed since 
 1796; and somewhat exceeding the great heat 
 of that year. From the 26th of July to the ,18th 
 of August, there had been but one shower. The 
 heat being steady and considerable, the endemial 
 causus (yellow fever ) commenced about the latter 
 date, and was aggravated by the extreme hot 
 weather, from the 1st to the 5th of September, 
 when the thermometer at noon, in the coolest 
 situation, varied from 90 to 92-f- degrees. Sep- 
 tember was, from sickness and death, the blackest 
 month ever recorded in Charleston, there having 
 been 328 intermittents, cf which 114 were from 
 endemial causus, and at least one-fourth of the 
 inhabitants were affected with the influenza about 
 the last of the month. From the 2d of October 
 to the 5th of November, there had been no rain, 
 and ©n the twenty-one days preceding, there had 
 only fallen one-tenth and a half During the 
 first six weeks of this time, the weather was clear, 
 and generally calm ; but when the winds did in- 
 crease, the inhabitants were distressed still more 
 by the clouds of dust which drifted in every dire.c- 
 
 VOL. II. I I 
 
482 DISTRESSING DROUGHT. 
 
 tion : the winds, fortunately, prevailed from the 
 east, so that the heat was not so oppressive. 
 
 " All the ponds, and many of the wells and 
 springs, were dried up, so that in country places 
 manj r cattle died for want of water, and travel- 
 lers could not obtain a sufficiency near the roads, 
 either for themselves or their horses. The atmo- 
 sphere was hazy and thick, as if filled with a 
 subtle dust, and the sun, as if deprived of its 
 rays, appeared of a fiery redness. On the 20th 
 of October, the weather became cool, and a frost 
 took place within two miles of the city, which 
 being occasionally succeeded by others, the at- 
 mosphere was cleared, and the effects of the 
 drought not so oppressive in the city. It may, 
 however, be said to continue even at this time, 
 for, from the 11th of September to the 21st inst. 
 a term of three months and ten days, there had 
 only fallen one inch and four-tenths of rain ; the 
 usual quantity of a smart shower. 
 
 f< Doctor Chalmers describes the distress of the 
 inhabitants in the year 1752, during a drought 
 of only thirty days ; but then, the thermometer 
 was occasionally as high as 97 and 98 degrees in 
 the shade. As we have never observed our ther- 
 mometer above 93 degrees, it is probable the 
 Doctor may have kept his in some situation ex- 
 posed to reflected heat. 
 
 " During this time, the minds of the inhabi- 
 tants were amused by their speculations on a 
 
THE COMET. 483 
 
 comet. It was discovered about the 1 5th of Sep- 
 tember, and had, probably, been visible seve- 
 ral weeks before. On the 29th of that month, 
 at nine o'clock in the evening, it was ten degrees 
 south-west of gaturn ; and, to the naked eye, ap- 
 peared somewhat larger than that planet. Its 
 declination was 35 minutes south, and its right 
 ascension 214 degrees from Aries, which would 
 bring it vertical to 15 minutes south latitude, and 
 171 degrees 45 minutes east longitude from Lon- 
 don ; a spot near a small island in the Pacific 
 Ocean. Its orbit intersected the ecliptic, in the 
 28th degree of Libra, with an inclination of 58 
 degrees, 40 minutes. It moved eastwardly, a 
 little inclining to the north, at the rate of eleven 
 miles and a half, an hour. 
 
 " By many, the dreadful influenza that op- 
 pressed them, with all the aggravations of the 
 drought, were ascribed to this comet. In the 
 days of superstition, such appearances were alarm- 
 ing. As their nature was not understood, if any 
 evils had occurred, or were then operating, the 
 comet was the undoubted cause. If none had 
 existed, man groping in the dark, and fearful in 
 the gloom of ignorance, would deem the appear- 
 ance of a comet ominous of some great, some na- 
 tional calamity. It is true the nature of comets 
 is far from being well understood ; but their 
 course, distance, extent, and velocity, being ascer- 
 tained, their extreme distance from the earth, 
 
 i i2 
 
484 LUNAR INFLUENCES. 
 
 their inconsiderable magnitude, as heavenly-bo- 
 dies, and their probable crystalline nature, con- 
 vince most men, that they have never approached 
 near enough to have an influence, either on the 
 earth or its atmosphere. 
 
 " If changes in the health of man, or in the 
 weather, or in the tides, are to be ascribed to 
 planetary influence, causes infinitely greater than 
 this have occurred, without producing a sensible 
 effect. October the 1st, 1803, six planets, viz. 
 the Sun, Venus, Mars,, Jupiter, Saturn, and Her- 
 schell, were nearly in conjunction: they were 
 within a space of 31 degrees. It is said that the 
 tides rose so high at that time, as to flow into the 
 cellars on the wharves, although there was no 
 gale; your diary* will explain this occurrence; 
 by it we find that north-east winds prevailed at 
 that time, and had continued, with but two ex- 
 ceptions, from the 11th of the preceding month. 
 Our uniform experience proves such high tides 
 to be occasioned by north-east winds retarding 
 the gulf stream ; why, then, should we ascribe 
 this elevation to causes so remote ? Again, on 
 the 1st of September, 1805, five planets, viz. 
 Mercury, Venus, Mars, Saturn, and Herschell, 
 were within a space of seventeen degrees ; no ex- 
 traordinary occurrence was noticed. But the 
 advocates for lunar influence will observe, if the 
 health and mind of man, the motion of the tides, 
 and changes in the weather, are affected by the 
 
LUNAR INFLUENCES. 
 
 485 
 
 changes in the moon, why may not the conjoined 
 attraction of so many greater planets produce an 
 effect in proportion ? Let them establish their 
 position before any inference is drawn. 
 
 " I will not deny that we are more subject to 
 diseases about the periods of the new and full 
 moon ; but the changes in the weather will fully 
 account for this circumstance. Such changes 
 may also be more frequent at these periods ; but 
 they likewise occur at other periods, and are fol- 
 lowed by the same diseases. Mania, and the 
 flMHI (^cannot be influenced by the moon, 
 although they may return at lunar months, for 
 they occur alike at all ages of the moon. What 
 are the changes of the moon, that they should be 
 productive of such vast effects? Do they consist 
 in any essential change of the moon itself? Cer- 
 tainly not: they consist in mere moonshine; in 
 a greater or less degree of borrowed light reflect- 
 ed on the earth. Can this slight, this gradual 
 change, be capable of such vast influence ? 
 
 <c It may be deemed heretical to question an 
 opinion which has been sanctioned by ages; an 
 opinion first advanced by the Greek writer Cleo- 
 menes, advocated by Pliny, and approved by 
 Newton. But with the greatest reverence for 
 these philosophers, I must offer a few of the 
 many objections to their theory, for all physiolo- 
 gists discuss the question : if the moon had 
 power to raise the tides daily, there would be but 
 
486 LUNAR INFLUENCES. 
 
 one tide in twenty four hours. They, however, 
 say that the sun, although not in so great a de- 
 gree, has likewise the power of attracting or rais- 
 ing the tides. If this were jtrue, the second tide 
 should alwajs occur about the same hour of the 
 day, as certainly as the sun arrives at its zenith. 
 Again, if this were true, in the first and last quar- 
 ters of the moon, when that planet rises and sets 
 about the same time with the sun, the only tide 
 that could occur in 24 hours, should be in the 
 day, and should be higher than other tides, in 
 proportion to the combined influ«» i 0H| 
 and moon. Modern astronomers introduce cen- 
 trifugai force to assist them in accounting for 
 these phenomena; although this is much more sa- 
 tisfactory, yet it cannot account for there being 
 no tides in the Mediterranean, and other inland 
 seas. We are the more impressed with this, 
 when we reflect that the smaller body should be 
 most affected by the attracting power, and that 
 the surrounding shores, by opposing the cur- 
 rent, if any, should give the tide a greater ele- 
 vation. 
 
 " It may not be doing well, to oppose so re- 
 spectable a theory, without being able to offer 
 a better; but this was not my object; I only 
 wished to weaken the general opinion of lunar, 
 and planetary influence, that it might not be 
 supposed the health of man is affected thereby, 
 aud that we might be more immediately guarded 
 
VACCINATION. 487 
 
 against the changes of the weather for the pre- 
 servation of health. 
 
 <v I do not, however, wish to discourage inves- 
 tigations of this kind, because we have not yet 
 discovered the truth. We may approximate, 
 although we do not arrive at certainty ; and he 
 who assigns a reason for an operation of nature, 
 and convinces us that a particular effect may pro- 
 ceed from an assigned cause, is entitled to our 
 respect and gratitude. The man who is enter- 
 prizingand diligent in the study of nature, is like 
 MnMjQPBninous and vivifying to the literary 
 world. Let us not cease to hope that the same 
 effort of reason and observation which developed 
 the mysteries of the planetary system, of electri- 
 city, and of the composition of water, may yet 
 unfold the different desiderata in science ! 
 
 <l Although the cold weather in the fall com- 
 menced at the usual time, and with the usual de- 
 gree, it afterwards became war m ; the thermo- 
 meter fluctuating from 70° to 75°, so late as the 
 ] 5th December, and even now it continues un- 
 seasonably warm. 
 
 " Vaccination was preserved throughout the 
 year, except from the middle of November to that 
 of December ; during which time the natural 
 small pox increased, and several physicians reluct- 
 antly inoculated. It is now very happily re- 
 vived from a scab of the late stock, about four 
 
/ 
 
 488 VACCINATION, DYSENTERY. 
 
 weeks old ; of fifty vaccinations, or more, made 
 from this scab, only one succeeded. 
 
 €f Dysentery was much more general and se- 
 vere than had been known for many years ; it 
 was, probably, introduced and kept up by the 
 continued importations of Africans; and this, 
 succeeded by dropsies, carried off great numbers 
 of those wretched people. Among the inhabi- 
 tants, it differed in one respect, from dysentery in 
 former years ; in very few instances, were tonic 
 or astringent remedies admissible, at any stage of 
 the disease. ltfi^fr% 4 
 
 i( Influenza is noticed as occurring iiTMarch, 
 and April, although not sanctioned by our jour- 
 nals. My opinion was then supported by the con- 
 currence of several eminent physicians, and has 
 since been confirmed by a correspondence of symp~ 
 toms with that which prevailed in the fall. On the 
 first of its appearance, in the latter period, tht 
 symptoms were so mild, that few required the at- 
 tendance of a physician. This lulled many into a 
 fatal security ; and when about half the inhabi- 
 tants had bum attacked bv it, a cold change took 
 place in the weather, during which, many re- 
 lapsed, and several lost their lives. So general was 
 the prevalence of this disease, about the middle 
 of October, that many families had from fifteen 
 to twenty sick at one time : servants could not 
 be hired to do the duties of a family, or nurses 
 
INFLUENZA. 489 
 
 procured to attend the sick. Relapses were very 
 frequent : in all such cases, the symptoms were 
 greatly aggravated, and frequently accompanied 
 by violent determinations to the pleura, and me- 
 diastinum. However severe the influenza was in 
 Charleston, it was much more destructive in the 
 interior country, and along the northern boun- 
 dary of the state. In Georgetown, eight persons 
 were lying dead of it in one day ; and in Allans- 
 town, in North Carolina, out of nine masters of 
 families, seven are said to have died of this com- 
 plaint ^pvljple families were sick at the same 
 time; and in a small neighbourhood at Casha- 
 way ferry, nine families of children, are likewise 
 said to have been left orphans by this prevailing 
 malady. With persons advanced in years it was 
 most violent ; next to these, with persons hav- 
 ing irritable lungs ; next, with persons left de* 
 bilitated by previous inflammatory complaints; 
 and lastly* with pregnant women : in these, mis- 
 carriage was a frequent consequence. Bleeding, 
 and other evacuants, with emollient drinks, were 
 the only remedies necessary at the first; but fre- 
 quent blisters were afterwards requisite. In the 
 country places above mentioned, bleeding is said 
 to have been injurious, and probably was so ; the 
 difficulties attending country practice, render it 
 impossible for so active a remedy to be always 
 seasonably applied. 
 
 ff On the subject of yellow fever, I regret hav- 
 ing nothing new to offer, towards the cure of the 
 
490 THE YELLOW FEVER. 
 
 disease. The symptoms varied from those of 
 former years in a greater disposition to typhus, 
 so that bark and other tonics, formerly rejected 
 in every stage, were now kindly received, and fre- 
 quently beneficial ; mercury is still the favourite 
 remedy. This dreadful disease having raged in 
 different parts of the United States, ever since 
 the year 1792, still baffles the greatest medical 
 skill. The greatest human strength is prostrated 
 before the pestilential breath of this, as of the 
 Lernian Hydra; respect is neither paid to the 
 pride of manhood, nor to the lovehnra of the 
 weaker sex : vigour, youth, and beadty, are the 
 chosen victims of its rage. A sympathetic grief 
 pervades the breast of each inhabitant ; scarcely 
 a father, a brother, or a son, whose heart does 
 not throb with apprehension; for, who has not 
 too frequently to lament the loss of some infant 
 hope, or beloved relative, lately returned from the 
 acquirement of an education, or the completion 
 of urgent business ; returned to fan the warmth 
 of his affection, and brighten his hopes, too soon 
 to be blasted by this fell disease. 
 
 te If all human strength, supported by medical 
 skill, cannot avail against the furious attack of 
 this monster, may not enter prize, conducted by 
 observation and reason, prevent its origin. Ob- 
 servation points to the drains, and other recept- 
 acles of filth, and reservoirs of stagnant water, as 
 the sources of its being. Reason convinces us 
 
THE YELLOW FEYER. 491 
 
 that if these receptacles of filth were daily cleans- 
 ed of their putrifying contents, so as to prevent 
 exhalation, this hydra could not exist. Enter- 
 prize, confirmed by experience, assures us that 
 water may be conducted through our streets, so 
 as not only to remove the fermenting matter from 
 the drains, but answer many other valuable pur- 
 poses. Let, then the talents and influence of 
 this society, be exerted to promote so desirable 
 an object ; let a committee of our members be 
 appointed to prove that this dreadful disease 
 originates from these sources, and state the most 
 striking instances of similar results, from similar 
 causes ; let them prove, that this disease may 
 probably be prevented by frequently cleansing 
 the drains of their impure contents ; and recom- 
 mend the distribution of water through the city, 
 by conduits, with a view to this great object. 
 This foe to the prosperity and happiness of Charles- 
 ton may thus be vanquished without Herculean 
 aid. Rescued from this fiend, trade and com- 
 merce will again flourish in the summer season, 
 and their increase be, at least in proportion to the 
 extension of time allotted for these pursuits. Pro- 
 tected from danger, men of wealth, industry and 
 talents, will become your inhabitants ; nay, you 
 will preserve the many valuable friends who now 
 wish to remove, rather than be exposed, with 
 their families, to such scenes of distress and 
 danger. 
 
492 THE YELLOW FETER. 
 
 "The obituary which I now present for your 
 inspection, will, although very imperfect, be 
 nevertheless useful. The want of a regular sys- 
 tem for affording a correct knowledge of the 
 diseases will now be felt, and probably remedied. 
 The number of newly imported Africans swells 
 our bills of mortality to so great an extent, that I 
 congratulate you on the time approaching, when 
 that aggravation will cease ; they now comprize 
 one half of all the deaths in the year. Even the 
 proportion of deaths among themselves has greatly 
 increased ; at first a twenty-ninth part of the 
 number imported died ; but now a fourteenth of 
 the whole. The diseases and deaths in the year 
 1803, are only recorded from the 1st July, yet 
 this affords some light. It proves that a great 
 proportion of deaths from tetanus and worms 
 occurs in the summer months. That convulsions, 
 pulmonic affections, apoplexy, and sore throats, are 
 much more fatal in the first part of the year. The 
 proportion of deaths amongchildren is distressing; 
 one fifth, and in some years one fourth of all that 
 are born, die under five years of age. The pro- 
 portion of such deaths is likewise increased in 
 the summer season, as we observe them rated at 
 nearly one third in 1803. From inaccuracy in 
 the reports, all deaths from diarrhoeas are set down 
 under the head of diarrhoea infantum; one fifth 
 or one sixth of this number should probably be 
 taken off, and set down under the head of diarr- 
 
VAHIETY OF DISEASES 493 
 
 hcea. The number of deaths under the head of 
 consumption, including those of debility, amounts 
 to an average of rather less than one sixth ; of 
 these it is fair to remark, that many cases are 
 brought us from the northern states, on account 
 of the mildness of our climate in the winter 
 season ; and it is fondly to be hoped that less at- 
 tention to fashion, and more to health, in the ten- 
 der sex, will hereafter greatly decrease the num- 
 ber who fall victims to this disease. Although 
 the changes are great and sudden, our climate is 
 certainly more favourable to pulmonic affections, 
 than that of the eastern or middle states : for even 
 in New York, from one-fourth to one third of all 
 that die, perish by these complaints. Among 
 children, likewise, however unfavourable to them 
 our climate may be reputed, the number of deaths 
 is one seventh less, in proportion, than in New 
 York." 
 
491 
 
 DEATHS IN CHARLESTON, 
 
 t;M3lO»Ofl) I WONm^ fli-M 
 
 f o I *«£« | OC* j -, JOJ,- 
 
 ^n^^^r^^r^" ^o~~^ j j j g : g 
 
 t 1 a »m M « 
 
 00 OS 
 
 ll^Wr^gg | | N*«W | g | jHSTj j J j j | 
 
 -. 10) 
 
 00 i OS 
 
 c 
 
 s 
 
 a x„ 
 
 3 x a 
 
 <5 as 
 
 <<3 
 
 ^ o o 
 OflQ 
 
 e w O O 
 
 « g .t: ,s „» . - 
 
 r#si2 t* rt *-* *** tr> r\ 
 
 5 s > s£ 3 ^ 3 £ is >- S 
 t§ Sc c « :> 2 r g-2 £ ,? -r 3 © « •« a 5 >^r r^ 
 
 o § 
 
 ED 
 
 5*. I (M'Q'-t^NiOOOi-ilSIMM^ It^O 1 ^ |t>l>CS»OCSC0»O'tf l I «5 «J 1 1* 
 
 O !00«.WO)m(0 CO Ol I co »o 0«<0t«) h CO 
 
 IJ3^;-Oi>co.--ioo<DC}c*r.*ooTf<cN I (o Q t- a » si c, oo I ^ (m |^ 
 
 I CM f-i CO <N CO t-i rH r-iCO I O CM i> CO 1 OS 
 
 OlOCOCO<©00«)>-lCTil^O^'Q I OO^HrilSo'IlnWCOlM^ I 1 ^f r-H 
 
 CO o 
 OS 
 
 CM !cs 
 
 2-a 6 
 
 So, •« 
 
 
 -is ' | g • . 
 
 •iii^ii'ritlif^ii 
 
 ^ O C «Jo2 ><^ ^ n «S Q<S 2J 3 
 
 s 
 
 
 S3S123SIQ[ 
 
 S3SE3SJP 3]qUBJUI 
 
 ■W T — V 
 
 -■E-ioaiiui 
 
 END OF VOL. II. 
 
 T. Gillet, Printer, 
 Crown-court, Fleet-street, Londorf. 
 
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 BERKELEY 
 
 Return to desk from which borrowed. 
 This book is DUE on the last date stamped below. 
 
 DEC 29 1947 
 
 SEP 1 3 1997 
 I 
 
 ) 21-100m-9,'47(A5702sl6)476 
 
 
v'/** Jorv 
 
 VC 48i 
 
 M,.£i.5f.P KELEY LIBRARIES 
 
 CDSM e 11S e 17S 
 
 M254183 
 
 Li- 
 
 THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LIBRARY 
 

 m 
 
 m 
 
 %% 
 
 m 
 
 
 ## 
 
 *-'&& 
 
 JUzk* 
 
 %M 
 
 «# 
 
 ;« 
 
 
 5^ 
 
 ■SUB 
 
 rf!», 
 
 a»