<0/:, '^itfOJIlVOJO^ AW[ UNIVERS//, o o "^ajAiNn-auv •^OFCAilF0% .^Of-CA[IFO% r^Q^ -^^lllBRARYQ^ ^^ME-UNIVE^/^ ^>clOSANCEl% > HIBRAI?Y(9/: ^nNUIBRARYQc, BOjnvjjo'^ '^(!/ojnv3jo>^ s^ A\\El)NIVERS/A o ovVOSAfJt o JFCALIFO/?^ ^OFCALIFO/?;)^ >AbViiaii-^^^ "^^Ayvaani^^ aweuniver% , ,, . _. o svlOSANC o s ^ 'Or vvlOSANCElfx^ o "^/saaAiNH^uV' -^^lllBRARYQ^ ^ g ^^ — ^% ^ B ^OFCAIIFO% %a3AiNnmv ^^Abviiaiii^ 4s> JtllBRARYQc -^^UIBRARYQ^ AWEUNIVERS-//, ^' ^TiiJONY-soi^ "^/SaHAINl HANDBOOK OP LONDON AS IT IS. LONDON [TiMri.r. 1 BY PETER CUNNINGHAM, F.S.A. LONDON : JOHN MUREAY, ALBEMAELE STREET. By {he same Author, HANDBOOK OF LONDON, Past and Present ; Being an Alphabetical Account of all the Remarkable Places con- nected with Historical and Antiquarian Associations. CONTENTS. OiD Inns and Tatebss. i The Wards and Chcrches op London. Residences of Remarkable Men. Streets Remarkable fob some Event. BcBiAL Places of Eminent Indivi- duals. Houses of the Old Nobility. Places of Entertainment. Old LoNi'ON Sights. Ancient Theatres and Crosses. Hostels of Church Dignitaries. Privileged Places for Debtors. Old London Prisons. Sccoud Edition, with an Index. Post Svo, 16s. When we perceive the amount of original research and curious reading which the author brings to hear on the subject, his precise arrangement and scrupulous accurac}-, then it is that we feel constrained to say that we have already had books enough of loosely compiled anecdote, and that Mr. Cunningham has in this Handbook laid the foundation of what we really want about London— something systeraatised, defined, and ascertained." Gentleman's Magazine^ WESTMINSTER ABBEY ; its Art, Architecture, asd ASSOCI.A.TIO.NS. Kmo, Is. In Pn^Mratlon, HANDBOOK TO THE ENVIRONS OF LONDON. stack Annex 5 NOTICE. A CAREFUL revision has been given to this work before presenting it again to the Public. It is proper to state that Mr. Cunningham is not respon- sible for the recent Editions of this Book. A full historical description of London, and of houses and streets no longer existing, will be found in Cunningham's " Handbook for Loudon, Past and Present." CONTENTS. I. ISTRODUCTOBY HiNTS AND SUGGESTIONS . . . IK II. Palaces of the Sovebeig.v and Household Offices 1 III. Houses of the Pkikcipal Nobility and Gentry . 9 IV. Parks and Public Gardens 26 V. Houses of Parliament 37 VI. The Thames and its Bridges ; Thames Tunnel, Pool, and Port of London 42 vu. Government Offices 48 VIII. Commercial Buildings and Docks 61 IX. Markets ''^ X. Breweries 76 XI. Water Companies 77 XII. Main Drainage— Sewf.rage 78 :revailed between 1666 and 1800; dingy brick, except where stately avenues like King William street, Cannon-street, and others, have been pierced through the labyrinth of narrow lanes. The streets for the most part inLoadoD.] § G. THE CITY. XV are narrow and inconvenient, as is observable in all walled cities wliei-e space was precious ; of picturesqueness there is none, unless we consider the interiors of many of the palaces of the old merchant princes, now converted into counting- liouses and chambers. With the exception of the moder- nised portions, there is just as little of convenience or of beauty. Wren, under whose direction the City was rebuilt after the Great Fire in 1666, originally intended to have laid out the streets in a regular manner : the principal thoroughfares radiating from St. Paul's with a width of not less than 70 feet. But economy carried the day against his magnificent design, and the City arose as we now see it. To the antiquary it presents few features of interest ; to the architect only the churches built by Wren and his pupils, and one or two more modern public buildings. '•'The City" is, 2yar excellence, the head-quarters of the trade and commerce of the countiy. Here everything is broiiglit to a focus, and every interest has its representative. In Lincoln's Inn and the Temple the lawyers find the quiet and retirement congenial to their pursuits. In the great thoroughfares, retail trade is triumphant. In the naiTow, dim lanes, which scarce afford room for carriages to pass each other, the wholesale ^Manchester warehoiises are congregated. In Thames-street and its immediate vicinity, commerce is represented by its Custom House, its Corn Exchange, its Coal Exchange, and its great wharfs. The fish and foreign fruit trades dwell in the thronged thoroughfore of Thames-street. In Lombard-street the money i^ower is enthroned. In Houndsditch the Jews most do congregate. In Paternoster-row and its neighbourhood, booksellers are located. St. Paul's forms the religious element of this strange compound of interests. The Exchange and the Bank, placed side by side, might be likened to the two ventricles of the great City heart; and grouped around, from first floor to garret in almost every house, are the offices of the Brokers who form the agents for the circulation of the world's wealth. Yet this spot, teeming by day with its hundreds of thousands, its streets gorged by carriages, cabs, and carts, presents at night, and still more on a Sunday, the spectacle of a deserted city. The banks closed, and xvi § 7. GREAT THOROUGHFARES EAST & WEST. [The Stranger tlie post gone, — the railway carriage, the omuibus, and the steam-boat, carry the clerks to the outskirts, and the mer- chants and principals to their villas and mansions at Clap- ham, Hackney, or the AVest End. The actual resident population of the City is diminishing, and many of its 58 churches — each parish having been provided, by the piety of our ancestors, with its own church — are nearly empty on Sundays. That space without the limits of the City 'proper which includes the N. bank of the river Thames as far as Blackwall, is occupied by docks, wharfs, manufactories, and warehouses, and inhabited by slop-sellers, crimps, and sailors. Everything here has reference to maritime affairs. N". of this district hes Spitalfields and Bethnal (jreeH, through which the Eastern Coun- ties Railway reveals to the traveller the crowded dwellings of the silk-weavers, readily distinguishable by the large garret windows, through which their hand-looms may be seen at work. The once rural Islinfjton, to the N., is mostly inhabited by the middle classes, and those immediately beneath them in the social scale. It lies high, and is considered one of the healthiest portions of the metropolis. The densely peopled district of Clerkenwell (west of Islington and north-east of Lincoln's-Inn-fields) is occupied by some of the best-paid and best-informed artisans in London. If we cross to the SuiTey side of the Thames, we come to the boroughs of 6'0M?/^yar^• and Larabcth, the former, including Bermondsoy, the great seat of the tanning trade ; the latter principally occuiiied by manufoctories. Shadwell and Rothci'- hithe are the head-quarters of sailors, and are but meanly built and inhabited — indeed the whole of the right bank of the Thames at Ijondon is much inferior in wealth and import- ance to that portion lying on the left or Middlesex shore. § 7. To enable the visitor to find his way from point to point, his best plan will be to study the Clue Map at the end of this volume, and fix in his mind the direction of the gi'eat thoroughfares. These generally run from E. to W., and from K to S. The great E. and W. lines of streets are those which lead from either side of Hyde Park to the Bank, and then fork off again, and terminate in the remote in LonJon.] § 8. MAIN THOROUGHFARES NORTH & SOUTH, xvii E. of the metropolis, forming a design somewhat in the shajie of an hour-gUass. !._c_st. ccheapside.., ■gCornliill. Leade nhall-st.T '^^^lX--^ — — rrr ~^ O OS "^ '""^ To the N. of these lines sweep the New and City Roads, which run like a boulevard almost completely round the N. and E. of the metropolis. On the S. side of the river, Stamford-street and the York-road follow for a mile the curve of the river, and, together with the New Cut and its continuations, intersect the different roads leading from the bridges. § 8. In the West End, the main thoroughfares running N. and S. are the Edgeware-road, leading from the W. end of Oxford-street to St. John's-wood; Portland-place and Regent- street, running from Regent's Park to Charing-cross; Hamp- stead and Tottenham-court Roads, connecting Hampstead with Holborn. The City is brought into connection with its northern suburbs by Gray's Inn-lane, Avhich runs from Holborn-hill to the New-road ; by Aldersgatc-streot and Goswell-street, which lead in a direct line from the Post Office to the Angel at Islington ; and by Gracechurch- street, Bishopsgate-street, Norton-folgate, and Shoreditch, connecting Kingsland and Hoxton with London Bridge and South wark. On the South wark and Lambeth, or Surrey side of the Thames and the Metropolis, the roads converge from the six bridges to the well-known tavern, the Elephant and Castle, which is about equidistant from all of them (excepting Yauxhall Bridge) ; from the tavei'n they again diverge, the Kent-road leading to Greenwich, and the Kennington and Newington Roads leading to Brixton and Tulse Hill, outskirts of London, studded with the villas and cottages of men " upon 'Change." 6 Xviii §§9,10. RAILWAY STATIONS, ETC. [The Stranger The streets of the Metropohs, about 2800 in number, would, if put together, extend 3000 miles in length. The main thoroughfares ai'e traversed by 1200 omnibuses, and 3500 cabs (besides private carriages and carts), employing 40,000 horses. In addition to these noisy and thronged thoroughfares, we have what has been called "the silent highway" of the Thames, running through the heart of the Metropolis, and traversed continually by steamboats and barges. The steamboats take up and set down passengers at the different landing-places between Chelsea and Blackwall, Greenwich and Gi-avesend, and, when the tide serves, run as high as Hampton Court, calling at all the intei-mediate landing-places on the banks. § 9. The connection of London -nith the pi-ovinces is kept up by the railways which diverge from it in various directions: — the Great Western Railway from its station at Paddington ; the North-Western from Euston-square, by the New Road; the Great Northern from King's-cross ; the Great Eastern Counties from Shoreditch and Fiusbury ; the Blackwall from Mark-lane; the South-Western from Water- loo Bridge ; whilst the London Bridge station has six sepa- rate lines supjilying with railway commimication the counties of Kent, SuiTcy, and Sussex. The London, Chatham, and Dover has a station (1863) at the Surrey end of Black- friars Bridge, but is soon to be cari-ied over the Thames by a bridge into the City. The Victoria West-end Crystal Palace station at Pimlico and the Charing Cross station enable travellers to reach Brighton, Dover, and the South-Eastern counties, without travcrsiug the City or Southwark. The Metropolis is put in instant connection with the chief cities and towns of the United Kingdom by the wires con- verging from the different stations to the Central Telegraph OflSces at Lothbury (East), and Charing-eross (West), where messages arc received and transmitted throughout the day. From London Bridge, St. Katherine wharf, and from Tower-stairs, the various Continental steamboats start. From London Bridge, the Margate and Ramsgate boats start, making, in the season, excui'sious on the Sunday to those places and back the same day. § 10. The stranger can comprehend, in the quicJccst way, the most remarkable features of the Metropolis, and in an in Loudon.] §§ 10, 11, 12. HOW TO SEE LONDON, ETC. xix economical maiiuer, by taking tlie box-seat of an omnibus, and making friends with the driver. Let him take, for in- stance, a Kensington omnibus, and go as far eastward as the Bank. In this manner ho will make himself acquainted, bj' the driver's help, with the characteristic features of Picca- dilly with its noble mansions, and of the great thoroughfares of the Strand, Fleet-street, and Cheapside. If he has a wish to penetrate the far east, he can do so by taking a Blackwall omnibus, but the journey would hardly repay him for his time and trouble, unless he desire to see the Docks. The retui-n drive might be made by a Paddington omnibus, which will take him through Holborn, New Oxford and Oxford Streets, as far as the Marble Arch at Cumberland Gate. A direct N. and S. section of the MetroiDolis might be viewed by taking a "Waterloo" omnibus, which starts from the York and Albany Tavern, Eegent's Park, and pvu'sues the line down Eegent-street, past Charing-cross, and so along the Strand over Waterloo Bridge ; also by an "Atlas" omnibus, which traverses the same line as far as Charing-cross, and then turns do\Mi Whitehall, and goes along Parliament-street across Westminster Bridge to the Elephant and Castle. These three routes, if followed up by an excuision on the Thames from Chelsea to Greenwich, would show at a rapid glance most of the arclutectural features of the Metropolis. § 11. For those who have ample time to examine the public buildings, we would recommend a walk from London Bridge W. to Trafalgar-square ; then an examination of "Whitehall, Pall-mall, and Regent-street, forming the irregular cross which springs from Trafalgar-square. By this means the visitor will pass the six great centres of life and archi- tecture which distinguish the Metropolis. Another walk — by which many interesting aspects and prospects of London may be obtained — is to "thread the Bridges ; " commencing with that of Westminster, from which the Parliament Houses are well seen, then crossing Hungerford and recrossing by Waterloo, Stamford Street leads thence to Blackfriars, whence you have the best viev,- of St. Paul's, and after traversing Southwark Bridge, you find your way along the Surrey bank of the Thames to London Bridge. & 2 XX § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. [The Stran-er § 12. The Jirst of these great centres — London Bridge — is tlie one a Foreigner naturally sees first, and it is the spot above all others calculated to impress him most with the importance and ceaseless activity of London. The bridge itself — crowded with an ever-moving stream of people and vehicles, and lined at the same time with the heads of curious si^ectators, wedged as thickly as pins in a paper, gazing upon the busy waters below — is a curious picture of the manner in •which the two currents of business-men and sight-seers are continually shouldering each other. On the other hand, the scene below is equally instinct with life. Above bridge we see the stairs of the penny steamboats, landing and taking in West End or Greenwich passengers, amid a perfect din of bell-ringing and cloud of steam-blowing. Below bridge we see the " Pool," looking, with its fleets of colliers moored in the stream, like the avenues of a forest in the leafless winter. The Custom-hoiise,with its long columniated facade, and the Italian-looking fish-market at Billingsgate, also strike the eye. The foot of the bridge, on either hand, is flanked with great buildings — the Fishmongers' Hall, belonging to one of the richest of the City companies; and with scarcely le.ss striking structures converted into hotels. Passing vip Fish- street-hill is seen, from base to summit, the Monument, erected to commemorate the Great Fire — still the most beautiful and picturesque of all the metropolitan columns. A little farther on, William IV. 's statue, worked in granite, stands guard at the entrance of King- William-street and Cannon-street, leading thoroughfai-es opened since 1834. At the end of this we approach our second architectural centre — the Bank of England, a low, richlj^-adorned building — admirablj' adapted to the purposes of its foundation. The oi")en sjiacc at this point is surrounded by several striking architectural eleva- tions. The Eoyal Exchange, the Sun Fire-office, the Mansion- house, and the towers of the church of St. Mary AYoolnoth, mark the sky-line in a most picturesque manner; nor can the equestrian statue of the Duke of Wellington, in front of the Exchange, fail to attract attention. The narrow passage of the Poultry, by which Cheapside is reached, has no feature of interest. Passing ICing-strect, however, the pseudo- Gothic front of Guildhall, standing full in the light at the end of King-street, strikes one as picturesque, notwith- in London.] § 12. APvCHITEC'TURAL CKXTRES. Xxl standing the viciousness of its style; wliile in Clieapside the stately steeple of Bow Cliurcli (Wren's finest steeple) never ftvils to an-est the attention of the stranger. Out of the comparative narrowness of Clieapside, the visitor will emerge {left) into St. Paul's-churchyard and the Cathedral, and (fight) upon the Post Office, our third great centre of life and architecture. The Cathedral is Wren's great master- piece; the Post Office was built by Sir R. Smirke. From St. Paul'.?, along Fleet-street and the Strand, we gradually see how the characteristic features of one city mingle yd\h. those of the othei'. In our way we pass under Temple Bar, and pass Somerset House (one of the head- quarters of the Civil Service) on our left. The counting- houses of the "City" (it is easy to observe) have slowly dis- appeared, and the shops have a gayer and more miscellaneous aspect. At last Chariug-cross is reached, and we recognise at once our fourth architectural centre of the great West End, from which improvement has shot out on every side. Standing on the I'aised platform beneath the portico of the IVatioual Gallery, we see before us the towers of the Houses of Parliament, and the perspective of the leading Govern- ment offices forming a line of street by themselves ; on the left hand is the beautiful church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, and on the right the vista of Pall-mall, with its splendid CJub-houscs. Well might the late Sir R. Peel designate Charing-cross as "the finest site in Europe." The square itself, with its ugly fountains and its ill-proportioned column, will require entirely remodelling before it can be worthy of its position, and we have purposely turned oiu* visitor's back to the National Gallery that he may not be offended with its meanness. Charing-cross may claim to be called the centre of the arts, as the Bank is the centre of commerce. Turning directly down Whitehall, we approach that portion of Westminster devoted to the principal Government offices and the Legislature ; on the right hand is the Ad- miralty (distinguished by its screen and portico), from which the fleets of England are governed ; a little further on is the Horse Guards, the head-quarters of the Commander-in- Chief. The long range of buildings still fux-ther on the right (refiontcd by Sir Charles Barry) consists of the Home xxii § 12. ArvCIIITECTURAL CENTRES. [The Stranger Office, the Privy Council Office, and the Treasury, all under one roof ; and the little uaiTOw street fonning a cul de sac, which tenninates it, is the world-famous Downing-street, containing the official residences of the Prime Ministei', and the Secretaries of State for Foreign and Colonial Affairs. One side of this is pulled down, and on its site will soon rise the magnificent Public Offices designed by G. G. Scott, extending to St. James's Park, which gave rise to the struggle known as the "Battle of the Styles." Nearly opposite to the Horse Guards is the Banqueting-house of the Old Palace of A\Tiitehall, the masterpiece of Inigo Jones ; in fi'ont of which King Chai-les I. was beheaded. The Jiftfi great architectui-al centre of the Metropolis is at the end of Parliament-street. Here the Church, the Law, and the. Legislature, are represented : the first in the noble old Abbey, the second in the Courts of Westminster Hall, and the third in the New Parliament Houses, whose towers, rising to a gigantic height, break in from point to point iipon the sight. This spot, indeed, might be considered the intellectual centre of the Meti'opolis. Within so small a space the earth perhaps holds not so many distinguished men amongst the living and the dead. Retracing our steps down Parliament-street we come to Waterloo-place, our sixth architectural centre, not inaptly called the centre of social and politicg,l life. Here we are in the heart of Chib-land. Looking towards the Duke of York's Column, which terminates the view, we have on our right hand the Athenreum, chiefly frequented by litei'ary men ; on the left, and exactly opposite it, the United Service Club, Avhose members are naval and military veterans. Next to the Athenteum, which stands at the commencement of Pall-mall West, is the Travellers'. The Reform, which is observable from its gi-eat size and from its Italian architecture, stands next in order. To the Reform succeeds the Carlton, the head-quarters of the Conservatives, a stately building, dis- tinguished by its polished granite pillars. The Oxford and Cambridge and the Guards' Club houses complete this side of Club-land. On the noi-th, or opposite side, at the corner turning into St. James's-square, is the Ai-my and Navy Club. At the bottom of St. James's-street stand Marlborough House, of red brick, and St. James's Palace, a dingy but inLondou] § 12. ARCHITECTURAL CENTRES. XxlU I^ictiiresque old building full of historical associations. Ascending the street, ou the left hand side are seen the Conservative Club, Arthur's, and Brooks's (the Whig head- quarters), whilst near the top is the once famous or infamous Crockford's, now a tavern, and called " The Wellington." '• Wliite's" and "Boodle's," once fashionable political Clubs, but now principally resorted to by elderly country gentlemen, stand on the opposite side near the top. The stranger should endeavour to procure orders (given by members) to see some of these Clubs, esjjecially the Reform, famous for its central hall, and its kitchen planned by M. Soyer. The staircases and apartments of the Carlton, Reform, Conservative, and Army and Navy Clubs, are very beautiful. Returning to Waterloo-place, after noticing for a few moments the noble jiark front of Carlton-terrace, which stands upon the site of Carlton House, the visitor should ascend Regent-street. This street was built by Nash during the regency of George IV., and was the first great improve- ment of the Metro^Jolis since the days of Wren. A few years since, a piazza covei-ed in the footwaj's on both sides of that part of it called the Quadrant ; and the double curve of columns thus formed had a noble effect. The lath-and- plaster style of Nash's architecture in Regent-street has given rise to the reproach that it cannot stand eitlier wind or weather. Nevertheless, it is the brightest and most cheerful street in the Metropolis ; and its sunny side, with its shops (many of which are French) filled with elegancies of all kinds, especially those pertaining to the female toilet, is one of the liveliest promenades in the Metropolis between the hours of 3 and 6 o'clock in the afteruooru Portland- place, a vride monotonous street, forms the continuation of Regent-street, and terminates in Park-crescent, a fine sweep of houses on either side forming the entrance to the Regent's Park. When the visitor has well suiweyed the routes pointed out, presenting an irregular pattern-card of almost every style, he will have made himself master of the entire street architecture of London. To comprehend at a glance the immense amount of busi- ness done in London as a Port, I would suggest a walk xsiv §§ 13, 14. THE PARKS AND THAMES. [The Stranger along Thames-street aud Tooley-street, whose gigantic ware- houses keep the thoroughfare in a perpetual gloom, and whose cranes hold in mid air during the day the varied produce of the world. The Custom-house-quay, with its long room; Billingsgate-market, the Coal-market close at hand, St. Katherine's aud the London Dock.?, might all be taken in the walk. § 13. The Paries of the Metropolis, not inaptly called the lungs of London, are six in number, and chiefly in the West End. St. James's Park, the Green Park, Hyde Park, and Kensington Gardens, lie so close to each other, that one may walk from Charing-cross, the very heart of the Metropolis, to Bayswater, a distance of thx'ee miles, scarcely taking one's feet off the sod. These three parks enclose London on its W. side ; whilst Regent's Park lies to the N.W., Victoria Park to the N.E., and Battersea Park, on the Thames, opposite to Chelsea, to the S.W. Besides these open spaces, which are beautifully laid out, the ventilation of the Great Babylon is in some degi-ee provided for by its numerous squares, some of them of large extent, and planted with trees ; and by its Botanic Gardens, Cemeteries, and Nurseries; which, taken together, occupy many hundred acres of groimd. § 14. The Thames. — Steamers on the Thames, belonging to different Companies, ply up and down the river for a fare varying from Id. to 3d. aud 6c/. according to distance, be- tween Chelsea and London Bridge — fares in proportion for greater distances, up to Richmond and down to Greenwich, LIST OF STEAMBOAT PIERS BELOW BRIDGE. loiidoii B)-id(je Pit)-.— Close to Brighton and Dover Railway; tlie Monument; Billingsgate; aud not fa" from tlie Bank and Royal Excliange ; Tower. T/iCimes Tunnel Pier, Deptford Pier. Greenwich Pier. Jilack-wdH Pier. Wooiicich Pier. PIERS ABOVE LONDON BRIDGE. St. Pcvl's Pirr.—Cat\mh\\\ ; Post Office. Jilackfriars Pier. — Bridge Street; Pleat Street. Temjile Pier. — The Temple; Temple Bar. Waterloo Pier. — Somerset llouse ; Str.md ; Covcnt Garden. Ilnnmrford Pier. — CbariDg Cross; National Gallery; Leicester Square. iu London.] § 14. THE THAMES AND ITS EFaDGES. XS.7 Westminster Sr'uUje Pi'w.— Houses of Parliament ; Westminster Abbey; Pubi.c Offices; Law Courts. Lamheih Pier — Palace. Vauxhall Bridge Pier. — Brilgravia ; Hyde Park Corner. Battersea Station Pier. — Railway to Crystal Palace. Batlersea Park Pier.— The New Park. CaUo(/an Pier.— Cheyne Walk; Chelsea Hospital; Interiiatioml Exhibiiion about li mile distant. Old Battersea Bridge Pier. — Cremorne Gardens. Having traversed the principal streets, let us take boat with our visitor and show liiiu the river Thames thorougli- fare of the Metropolis, which displays, in a more coinjilete manner perhaps thau any other, what Loudon really is, both in exteut and character. Taking one of the penny steamers at Westuiiu.ster Bridge, he sees before him several si^ecimens of that bridge architecture which has made London so famous. Westminster Bridge, under whose broad shadow he for a moment rests, was rebuilt 1859-62, in keeping with the adjacent Houses of Parliament. Tiie banks of the river on either side of Westminster Bridge are, for some distance, occupied by coal barges, mud- banks, a few good houses, some mean wharfs, and many still meaner buildings, but will shortly be bordered by Quays worthy the river and metropolis. As we descend the stream, Hungerford Railway Bridge, starting on the Middlesex shoi'e from the Hungerford or Charing Cross Station, close to Inigo Jones's Gate of York-house, next crosses the widest portion of the Thames. Then is seen the Adelphi-terracc, built by the brothers Adam — in the centre house of which lived and died David Garrick. Then is seen in contrast Waterloo Bridge, with its nine arches, the centre one having a span of 120 feet. Tliis bridge, which is jierfectly level, and built of the finest granite, is certainly a noble structure, and well becomes the fine facade of Somerset Hou.se, rising fi-om a terrace immediately beyond it, on its right hand, and ex- tending 400 feet along the river. Still farther down, on the same shore, the pleasant Temple Gardens are seen on the left, gi-een and flourishing, amid the surrounding black- ness of the City. Blackfriars Bridge, over which rises the stately dome of St. Paul's, is next passed under ; then comes " the thick " of the City, on the left bank, and the .sky is jienetrated by the spires of numerous churches, indi- cating by their numbers, now quite disproportioued to the spiritual wauts of the very limited resident population, the SXvi i lo. "the pool." [The Stranger ^ f ancestral piety of London. Sonthwark Bridge, built of iron, is remarkable for its central arch, of 240 feet span, the widest curved arch in the world. London Bridge, the last or most seaward of the metropolitan bridges, with its five granite arches crossing the Thames, divides London into "above" and "below" bridge. "Above bridge," the traffic of the river consists of coal barges, — bright-coloured and picturesque Thames hoys, laden with straw, — and the crowded penny and twopenny steamboats, darting along with almost railway rajjidity. Immediately the arches of Loudon Bridge are shot, the scene is at once changed. The visitor finds himself in a vast estuary crowded ■v\ith ships as far as the eye can reach. Many great com- mercial establishments and the principal Docks of London lie on the left bank of the Thames, "below" bridge. The Fish-market (Billingsgate), and the Coal Exchange, are rapidly passed, after which the Tower, square and massive, •with its irregular out-buildings, and its famous Traitor's-gate, may be said to terminate the boundary of the City. § 15. The Pool commences just below London Bi'idge, where the river is divided into two channels by the treble range of colliers and other vessels anchored in it to discharge their cargoes — the city of Loudon deriving its chief income from a tax of Is. Id. per ton levied on coals consumed in the metropolis and its vicinity. Only a certain number of these dingy-looking colliers are admitted into the " Pool" at once, the remainder waiting in " the Lower Pool " until the flag- which denotes that it is full is lowered, when those enter that are first in rank. The greatest order and regularity in marshalling these coal fleets is absolutely necessary to avoid choking tlic water-way. A little below the Tower of London are the St. Katherine's Docks, inclosed by warehouses, over which the masts of the larger shipping are observable. The London Docks succeed, and in connection with them are the wine vaults, iu which as many as 65,000 pipes of wine can be stowed. Just past the first entrance to these docks, the steamer passes over the Thames Tunnel. On the opposite shore is the Grand Surrey Dock, devoted, together with the Commercial and Greenland Dock.s, to the timber and corn ti'ades. iiiLouaon.] § 15. FROM " THE POOL " TO GRAVESEND. xxvii A little below the Pool, where the river takes an abrupt bend in its course at Limehouse-reacli, is one of the entrances to the West India Docks. These docks nm right across the base of the tongue of laud called the Isle of Dogs, and open into Blackwall-i'each ; and the crowd of masts seen across the pasturage looks like a gi'ove of leafless trees. Deptford (on the right hand as you pass down Limehouse- reach) is a government dockyard and the seat of the victualling department, which every stranger should see. There are always several ships of war, steamers and others, lying off the wharf; and underneath its vast building sheds, the ribs of some future man-of-war are generally to be seen growing tip under the busy hammers of the shipwrights. The steamer has scarce passed Deptford when the Seaman's Hospital-ship, the hulk of a 120-gun ship, rears itself out of the water, affording a noble example of the size and power of a first-rate man-of-war. This old ship stands as a kind of outwork to Greenwich Hospital, whose noble cupolas and double range of columniated buildings rise just beyond, a worthy dwelling for our decayed old naval worthies, and a noble monument of the genius of Wren. Few places are moi-e picturesque than Greenwich as you descend the river. The old irregvdarly built town and the palace-like hospital are backed by the rising ground of Greenwich Park with its splendid sweet-chestnut trees, and cro\\aied by the Observatoiy, from which place the Saxon race throughout the world marks its longitude. The exact time is shown to- the shipping below by the fall, every day at one, of a large black ball, which slides down a mast surmounting the top of the building; by this means the thousand mariners in the river below have a daily opportunity of testing the accm-acy of their chi-onometers.* Opposite Greenwich are many busy and noisy Ship- builders' yards, who make the air ring with the din of hammer upon iron. Here was built the great Colossus of tlie sea, " The Great Eastern Steam Ship," in the yards of Mr. Scott Russell. Below Greenwich the river for some distance is dull enough, * A ball, in communication with Greenwich Observatory, falls every- day at one, at the Electric Telegraph Office, Charing-cvoss (West). sr.'vviii § 16. THE THAMES ABOVE BRIDGE. [The Stranger low flat shores extending on either side, until Blackwall is reached, with its Italian-looking railway station, and its qua}', always in fine weather crowded with people. The East India Docks, full of the largest class merchant ships, are situated here. Still further down the river is Woolwich Arsenal (the largest government ordnance dejDot), which eveiy visitor should see. The river below, and nearly all the way to its mouth, lies between flat marshes, over which the shijDs appear sailing across the grass, as in a Dutch picture. Gravesend, the last town on its banks, is at least 30 miles from London; a description of it therefore will not fall within our limits : nevertheless au excursion from London- bridge to Gravesend affords, at a rapid glance, a notion of the vast extent of the commerce of London. The sailing vessels belonging to the port of London average nearly 3000, and the steamers 350, giving employ- ment to crews of 35,000 men and boys. The Customs from this enormous mass of merchandise is upwards of eleven millions sterling, or half the receipts from this dejDartment for the whole country. The declared value of the exports is nearly of a like amount. § 16. To see the Thames in all its pastoral beauty the visitor should ascend the stream far beyond the limits of the metro2>olis. The best possible way of seeing it is to take the steamer downwards, after visiting Hampton Court or Eichmond (which he may reach by the line of the South- western Railway). The windings of the river make the journey a long one (two houi-s at least), but the lover of l:)eautiful sceneiy and literary and historical associations will not regard it as time lost, as he will pass many places famous in song and history. At Twickenham he will pass Pope's gi'otto (the house has been entirely rebuilt), and Strawberrj'-hill, the sham castle of Horace Walpole; Ham House, an old mansion-house of the time of James I., notorious as the house where the '■'Cabal" ministers of the reign of Charles II. used to meet. Richmond Hill and Park, beautifully wooded, crown the prospect. The old palace of Sheen, celebrated in the early reigns, yet shows some fragments, incorporated in a modern house, the grounds of which come down to the water, at this spot crossed by in London.] § 16. HAMTTON COURT TO WKSTMINSTEK BR. Xsix Ricbinond Bridge, and ornameuted by an ialand planted with weeping willows. Below Richmond, on the right bank of the river, ruiis Kew Park, once famous as the Farm where George III. set the example of scientific farming to his subjects and country; and on the left is Sion House, the fine mansion of the Duke of Northumberland, with beautiful gardens. Still further down is the charming village of Kew, with its Botanic garden and palm-house ; Fulliam succeed.?, with the Bishop of Lon- don's Palace, amid the most verdant meadows and trees of the densest foliage ; but here adieu to the country ; smoking factories and rows of houses commence, and give to its banks a sub\u-ban chai-acter. The Thames so far is comparatively clear, running over a gravelly bottom, and banked with ver- dure on cither hand. The swans too, sailing about in fleets, add to the beauty of the water. There are a vast number of these stately birds kept by the various City Companies at a great expense : one companj' (the Dyers') spending 300?. a year upon their swans. On the left bank, and close to the clumsy old Battersea Bridge, are Cremorne Garden.?, the nightly resort in the season of thousands. Below Battersea Bridge, on the right hand, extends the New Park, Battersea (with walks, carriage drives, and terrace running close beside the water) ; and Chel- sea Hospital, with its high roof, and the old Physic Garden, marked, since 1854, only by a solitary cedar of Lebanon, tei'minatc the open character of the banks, which are below this occupied with manufactories or with rows of houses. Below the Hospital the Pimlico Chain Bridge, and another for the passage of the West-End Railwaj", span the river. At Lambeth the visitor sees with interest the antique towers of the Primate's Palace, and old Lambeth Church, rebuilt — all but the tower; and on the opposite shore, the Penitentiary, covering a vast extent of ground, and looking like a " cut down " bastille. In immediate proximity to it is the new quarter of Pimlico, which has arisen since 1840, under the hands of the late Mr. Thomas Cubitt (d. 185G), the leviathan builder of the Behjravian portion of West-End Loudon, and originally a ship-carpenter. XXS § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Stranger § 17. General Hints to Strangers. London sliould be seen in May, June, and July. In May, the Royal Academy Exhibition opens. — The Court is in resi- dence. — The Queen or Princess of AVales holds Drawing-rooms and Levees. — The Parliament is sitting. — The Opera iu full season. — Concerts and other public entertainments daily. — The town is full — the streets overflow w^ith equipages. There is not a more striking sight iu London than the bustle of its great streets — the perpetually rolling tide of people, carts, carriages, gay equipages, and omnibuses, in its great thoroughfares. On Draiving-room and Levee Days it is worth while to take your stand in St. James' s-street between 1 and 2, to see the distinguished personages going to St, James's, their equipages, &c. The Queen and Royal Family jiass through St. James's Park usually about 2 and i, Saturday is the aristocratic day for sight- seeing. Monday (Saint Monday) is generally a workman's holiday. Take the right-hand side of those you meet in walking along the streets. The Electric Telegraph Companies. International. — Head Office, Telegraph-street, Mooi'gate ; British and Irish, and Submarine, 58, Threadneedle-sti-eet. There are 40 branch offices : at Charing-cross, Regent's Circus, St, James'-street, Knightsbridge, and other parts of the town. By moans of the Universal Private Telegraph Company (Wheatstoue's), messages may be sent in a very short time from one part of London to another, through nearly 400 miles of wires carried over the tops of the houses, and across the principal streets. There are more than 100 offices. Central Station, 90, Cannon-streefc. Never listen to offers of " smuggled " cigars in the street. Beware of mock auctions at shops. Beware of drinking the unwholesome water furnished to the tanks of houses from the Thames — good drinlcing water may be obtained from springs and jjumps iu any part of the town by sending for it. To find the direction of a " West-End friend " (who is not in lodgings), consult Webster's Royal Red Bool;, or Boyle's Court Oidde, which, however, give only the names of persons residing in private houses. in London.] § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. sxsi To find tlio direction of any professional man or trades- man (possessing a house), consult The Post-office Directory, which is at once an official, street, commercial, trades law, court, parliamentary. City, conveyance, and postal directory. The visitor may see it at any hotel or in anj^ of the better-class shops. The names and livings of Clergymen of the Church of England may be found in the annual " Clergy List." Commissioners, or Messengers, a corps of wounded soldiers, all of whom have lost a limb in the service of their country, and bearing good characters, are authorised by a society to execute commissions, carry letters, parcels, and messages, on a moderate charge of 2d. for ^ a mile, Zd. for 1 mile or more than ;^ a mile, or Qd. an hour, walking at the rate of 21 miles per hour. They are stationed in the chief thoroughfares at the East and ^Yest ends of London, and are known by their green uniform, and badges and medals. Ladies requiring to drive about town in a cab, may take them on the box to act the part of servants, with pei'fect confidence in their steadiness. The best London messenger is a well-sealed and clearly directed penny-post letter. Foreign money is not current in England, and any attempt to use it will expose the traveller to inconvenience. It should be at once exchanged on arriving. Always note down the number of English bank notes ; if lost or stolen, this precaution will be valuable. The hours of busiiaess, during which all offices, counting-houses, &c., are open are from 10 to 4. The proper hoiu-s for calling at private houses are from 2 to 6 at the " West End." A letter of inti'oductiou should be left in person with a card and address, or at least delivered with a card by a messenger, and not sent by post. The dinner hour in England for the professional and ujiper classes varies from 5 to 8 p.m. Guests should arrive not later than a quarter of an hour after the time named, but never a minute before it. In England the gentlemen never hand the ladies from table, but remain by themselves. When requesting permission to view any of the private galleries or mansions, a foreigner had always better write a polite note in the Fi-ench form and language, than in XXxii § 17. GENERAL HINTS TO STRANGERS. [The Strangtr Englisb. Foreignei's will find that the knowledge of the French language is universally, and of the German not rarely, diffused from the upper classes downwards, especially amongst females and young persons. At Her Majesty's Theatre (Italian Opera), gentlemen ai-e not admitted unless in black or white neckcloths, black pantaloons, and dress coats ; much annoyance will often be the result of any attempted infringement of this rule. There are some sights peculiarly national, wliieh foi'cigners should not omit to see whilst in London. Races. — Epsom and Ascot races take jjlace in May and June, and are the great sights in this way. Go to Epsom (if not in your own carriage with four post-horses) outside a foui'-horse coach, — the scene on the road is most striking. "The Derby" — the Isthmian games of England — is the Car- nival of the Metropolis. For it even Parliament suspends its sittings, and the City exchanges are deserted. Then the millions of London are exposed unroofed upon the open Downs. The i-ace itself — " the great event," as it is called — will less affect those who are not sporting men than the si^ectacle of the Downs paved with human heads, and the miles of pic-nics and feasting which follow it. As these races are movable entertainments, consult some resident in London for the days on which they take place. Public Dinners, for various political, social, and charitable objects, are always advertised, and any one may dine who will pay for a dinner ticket, generally one guinea. Distin- guished speakers, and sometimes good vocal music, are the attractions. The English peculiarities as to " toasts," " cheer- ing," "speeches," &c., may here be witnessed to perfection. Boat Races and Sailinfj Matches on the Thames. — A steamer generally accompanies the best matches, by advertisement, and the cutter club.s, such as "the Leander," "the West- minster," &c., each pulled by eight " crack ' amateurs, may generally be seen when it is high water in the evening, on the upper part of the Thames, about Putney. The Game of Cricket is best seen at Lord's Cricket Ground, St. John's Wood Road, Regent's-park ; admission Is. The principal "matches," such as "Kent" against "all England," inLondon] § 18. CAB FARES. XXxiii "Gentlemen" against "Players," "Oxford" against " Cam- bridge," are generally advertised. Prize Fights are prevented by the police, and are now almost extinct. For all sporting subjects consult " The Field," or "Bell's Life in London," weekly papers. From October to March, hunting is the rage — steeple- chases in the spring. The " meets " are always advertised, and often take place (especially those of the " Queen's Stag Hounds") near to the railway stations within 20 miles of London. A n English Trial ly Jury may be seen, during Term time, at the Central Criminal Court (Old Bailey) in criminal cases ; and at Guildhall and Westminster Hall. A shilling to a doorkeeper will generally secure a good seat. Be on your guard about the confusion in the nomenclature of London streets, the street branch of the " Post OflSctf Directory" recording the existence, in various parts of the to^vn, of 37 King-streets, 27 Queen-streets, 22 Princes- streets, and 17 Duke-streets, 35 Charles-streets, 29 John- streets, 15 James-streets, 21 George-streets, besides numerous thoroughfares with the common prefixes Robert, Thomas, Frederick, Charlotte, and Mary. Anomalies also are very common : — There are North and South Streets which lie east and west, and 10 East-streets and 11 West-streets which point to a sufficient variety of directions to box the compass. There are as many as 21 " Xew-streets," and only 1 Old- street, though some of the " New " are old enough. There are no fewer than IS York-places, 16 York-streets, 14 Cross- streets, 13 Crown-courts, 19 Park-places, 16 Union-streets, 10 Wellington-places, 10 Gloucester-streets, and 13 Glou- cester-places. The suburbs abound iu provoking repetitions of streets and terraces bearing the names of " Victoria" and "Albert." These will soon cease under the Metropolis Local Management Act. § 18. Cab Fares. — Obtain at any booksellei-'s, price Is., the Red Book of fares, published by the Metropolitan Police Commissioners, pursuant to section 6 of Act 16 and 17 Vic- toria, c. 33. These tables, in case of dispute as to fare, are conclusive evidence of all the distances they contain. The number of cabs in London is abov;t 5000. A four- G XXxiv § 18. CABS. [The Stranger wheeled cab holds four persons ; a Hansom (named from the inventoi-) only two. Each cabman must earn ten shil- lings a day before he can clear his expenses or obtain a penny for himself. The London public, it is calculated, spends 860,000Z. a year in cab-hire. If you are in a hurry, and waut to catch a railway train, call a Hansom-cab, promise the man a shilling above his fare, if he takes you in tune. The centre of London (for cabs) is Chariug-cross. Fares are according to distance or time, at the option of the hirer, expressed at the commencement of the hiring ; if not otherwise expressed, the fare according to distance. After 8 o'clock in the evening, and before 6 o'clock in the morning, no driver is compellable to hire his carriage for a fare according to time. Distance fares for two persons. — Sixpence a mile, or fragment of a mile, not exceeding four miles (radius) from Charing- cross. One shilling a mile, or part of a mile, wlien taken beyond fom- miles from Charing-cross. Back-fare cannot be claimed. The charge for stopping, is sixpence for every quarter of an hour completed. Time fares for two persons. — For any time within, and not exceeding, one hour, 2s. Sixpence for every quarter of an hour, or any part of fifteen minutes not completed above one hour. One shilling for every mile, or part of a mile, beyond four miles (radius) from Charing cross — if your cab is dis- charged bej'ond such four miles. Back-fare cannot be claimed. When hired by time, the driver may be required to drive at a rate not exceeding four miles an hour. When re- quired to drive at a greater speed, he is entitled to claim M. a mile, or fragment of a mile, in addition to the time fare. Distance and time fares for more than two persons. — When more than two i')crsons are carried in one cab, an addi- tional sixpence is to be paid for every additional person in London] § 19. OMNIBUS ROUTES. XSXV for the whole hiring. Two children under ten years of age counted as one adult. For every 15 minutes stoppage the driver is entitled to 6f^. over his distance fare. Luggage. — A reasonable quantity of luggage is to be carried in or upon the carriage free of charge, except when more than two persons are cariied inside, with a gi-eater quantity of luggage than can be carried inside, and then Id. is to be paid for every package carried outside. In case of any dispute between hirer and driver, the hirer may require the driver to drive to the nearest Metropolitan Police Court, or Justice Room, when the complaint may be determined by the Sitting Magistrate without summons ; if no Police Court or Justice Room be open at tlie time, then the hirer may require the driver to drive him to the nearest Police Station, where the complaint will be entered, and tried by the Magistrate at his next sitting. Every driver, when hired, is required to deliver to the hirer a card containing the printed number of the Stamp Office plate on such carriage, or such other words or figures as the Commissioners of Police may direct. In London and the Metropolitan District there are about 300 cab-stands. If you leave any article either in a "bus" or cab, apply for it at the Police Office, Scotland-yai'd. § 19. Omnibus Routes traverse London not only N. and S. and E. and W., but in all directions through the central parts, to and from the extreme suburbs. There are about 1500 diff'ereut omnibuses, employing nearly 7000 persons. The majority commence running at 8 in the morning and continue till 12 at night, succeeding each other during the busy parts of the day every five miniitcs. Most of them have two charges — fourpeuce for part of the distance, and sixpence for the whole distance ; some charge as low as twopence for short distances, and few exceed ninepence for the whole journey. It will be well, however, in all cases to inquire the fare to the particular spot ; wherever there is a doubt the conductors will demand the full fore. The "bus" is subject to the inconvenience of heat and crowd. c 2 XXXvi § 19. OMNIBUS ROUTES. [The StrangM ing; and in wet weather the steam from wet great coats and umbrellas is very oppressive. Add to this, it is not unfrequently chosen by pickpockets to carry out their operations. The seat on the roof, vulgo, " the knife-board," is free from those objections, provided you can climb up to it, which for females and infirm persons is not possible. The Chief Centres from which Omnibus Routes radiate akk — All the Railway Stations. The Bank. Charing Cross. Oxford Street— comer of Tottenham Court Road. Oxford Street — Regent Circus. Piccadilly— Regent Circus and White Horse Cellar. Sloane Street. Bishopsgate Street — Flower Pot. Gracechurch Street. Angel, Islington. Elephant and Castle. Starting Points on the Outskirts of London. Bayswater — to Whitechapel, by Oxford Street, Holbom. Blackwall — to Pimlico Royal Blue). Brompton — to London Bridge. Cambertcell — from Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge. Camhertccll — from Camden Town (Waterloo), by Albany Street, Regent Street, Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridge. Camden Toica — (See York and Albany). Chelsea — King's Road to Bishopsgate Street, by Sloane Street, St. Paul's, Bank. Hamtiiersinith and Kensington — to the Bank, by Piccadilly, Strand, St. Paul's, Cheapside. International Exhibitinn — South Kensington (Exhibition and others), from all parts of London ; also, all Brompton and Putney omni- buses pass close to it, and all Kensington and Hammersmith omnibuses within half a mile of it. Kennington Gate — to King's Cross, by Blackfriars Road, Fleet Street, Gray's Inn Lane. PaddiTigton— to the Bank (Conveyance Company), by Euston Road, Pentonville, Angel (I.slington), Finsbury. Paddington — by Oxford Street, Holborn, Newgate Street, Cheapside. St. John's H'ood—to the Bank (City Atla.s). St. John's Wood — to Elephant and Castle, by Baker Street, Regent Street, Charing Cross, and Westminster Bridge (Atlas). We!ttminsttr — to Ilighgate Archway (Favourite), by Chai-ing Cross, Chancery Lane, Gray's Inn Road, Islington, Hollowaj-. Toik and Albcnt/ — near Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park, to Cam- berwell Gate, by Portland Road, Regent Street, Charing Cross, and Waterloo Bridge (Waterloo). Omnibuses from London to the Environs. To BUtAwnll—trom Regent Circus, Piccadilly, by Bank. Better by- Rail, from Fenchurch Street. To Brixton — from Gracechurch Street, by Loudon Bridge, Newingtoa Causeway, Keuniugton, Tulse Hill. iaLonJon.] § 20. POST-OFFICE. XXXvii To Brixton — from King's Cross, by Chancery Lane, TTestminster Bridge. To Clapham — from Graceclmrch Street, by the Borough. To Clapham — from Oxford Street (Regent Circus;, by Westminster Bridge. To Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea — from Bank, by Charing Cross, Picca- dilly, Sloaue Street. (N.B. Also by Thames steamers to Upper Ch«IseaPier.) To Crystal Palace, Norwood — from Oxford Street, Charing Cross, Westminster Bridge, Kennington, and Brixton. To Cri/stal Palace, Norwood — from Gracechurch Street, City, by Brixton or Camberwell, and Uulwich. (Quicker by hail.) To Duhcich — from Gracecluirch Street, London Bridge, every hour. To Greenwich — from Charing Cross, bj' Westminster Bridge. To GreentDich — from Gracechurch Street, by London Bridge. To HacK-ne^—fvoia. the Bank, by Bishopsgate Street, Shoreditch, Clapton. To Hampstead — from the Bank, by Holborn, Tottenham Court Road. To Hampton Cocri — from St. Paul's, by Charing Crass, White Horse Cellar, Hammersmith, Kew, Richmond, Twickenham (White). To Kensal Green Cemetery — from Oxford Street, Edgeware Road. To Highyate Hill— frova Westminster (Favourite), Charing Cross, Chancery Lane, Islington. To ys;i(((7fo'/i— Barnsbury Park, from Kennington Gate, Blackfriars Bridge, St. Paul's, Post Ofhce, Goswell Road. To Isliiiytun — from. Old Kent Road (Borough), by London Bridge. To Pw(«f;/ 2Jcu?;/t'— from Loudon Bridge Station, by Fleet Sti-eet, Pic- cadilly, Parson's Green, Fulham. To Richmond — from St. Paul's, Charing Cross, Piccadilly, Kenning- ton, Kew Bridge. To Richmond — by Brompton, Putney Bridge, Mortlake. § 20. Letters (for distances beyond the London delivery) can be posted at the Receiving Houses throughout the Metropolis until 5h. 30m. p.m., or until C p.m., with double postage stamps attached. The ten Postal Districts of London and the Chief Offices az-e — St. Martin's-le-Grand. 126, High Holborn. 3, Vere-street, Oxford-street. Eversholt-street, Oakley-square. Little Charlotte-street, Bucking- [ham-gate. Westminster-road, Lambeth. 170, High-street, Soutlnvai-k. Nassau-place, Commercial-road. 78, Church-street, Bethnal-greeu. Lower-street, Islington. In the London District Posts there are 11 deliverie.s of letters daily. Take care to post before \ to 8, 10, 12, and E.C. Eastern Centred. W.C. Western Central. w. Western. N.W, . North Western. S.W. South Western. S. South. S.E, South East. E. East. N.E. North East. N. North. XXXviii § 21. HOTELS, &C. WHERE TO LODGE. [The Strangei 2, 4, 6, 8, and in one of the Iron Pillar Boxes (first erected 1855) on the kerb stones of the leading thoroughfares. Letters posted at the Receiving-houses in London before, 6 at night are delivered the same evening at all places within a circle of three miles from the General Post Office ; or if posted before 5, they are delivered in the environs the same evening. § 21. Iloteh, Inns, solving vi^^ws, &c.; a collection of all kinds of curious machinery in motion, and of models, &c.; lectures on chemistry, and other scientific subjects, are daily given Open from 11 o'clock till 5 o'clock, and from 7 o'clock till 10 o'clock. Admission, Is, Mr. Pepper is the p pular iManager. Madamk Tussaud's Wax Works, Baker-street, Portraan-square. The evening is the best time. Admission, Is. C'liamber of Horrors, &l. extra. Shut 6 to 8 p.m, P.akeu-Street Bazaar. Cremorne Gardens, Chelsea. In summer the gardens open at 3, are illuminated at night. Dancing commences at dusk, the whole con- cluding with Fireworks at 11. Admission, Is. CONCERTS AND MUSIC. § 25. Performances of Interest to the Musician. The Two Opera?. See ppc. xx, p. 181. Concerts of the Philharmonic Society held in the Hanover-square Rooms, Apply at Messrs. Addison and Co.'.s, 110, Regent-street. Sacred Harmonic Society'. — Performances of Onitoiios, by Handel, Haydn, Mendelssohn, &c., in Exeter Hall, from November to July. Monday- Popular Concerts. — St. James's IJall, from 8 toli'^ p.m. Musical Union Concerts, held in Willis's Rooms, King-street, St. James's. Private Concert.'?, given by celebrated artists, during the season — May, June, July. Ilannver-squaie Rooms — Almack's, St. .lame.s's Hall. Ella's Concerts op Instrumkntal Music — most scientific and first-rate. Anniversary of the Sons of the Clergy, in St. Paul's Cathedi-al in May. Anniversary' of the Charity Children of London, beneath the Dome of St. Paul's, the First Thursd.ay in June. Madrigal, Choral, and Glee Societies, always taking place in the Metro- polis, of which notice is given in the public papers. Concerts, Handel Celebrations, Ac. at the Crystal Palace, Sydenham. Canterbury Hall, Marsh-gate, Lambeth. — Good Collection of Modern Paintings, fine Hall, and Music. § 26. Objects of Interest to the Painter and Connoisseur. '^ T?ie Colh'ciions thus marJceJ are private, and placed in dwelling-houses, and can only he seen by special permission of the owners.* National Gallery, including the Turner Collections. Free, Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and Satnrday. South Kensington Museum of Works of Art, including the Sheep- SHANKS and the Vep.non Gallerv of Paintings. The National Portrait Gallery, 29, Gfcge-street, Weslminjter. § Bridgewater Gallery, St. James's. By i'ickets only. • These Collections are fully and satisfactorily described in Waagen': " Treasures of Art in Britain," 1854. in London.] TO MUSICIANS, PAINTERS, ETC. xlv § Grosvenor Gallery (Lord 'Westminster's), Upper Grosvenor-stroet. By Tickets, in May, June, and July, g Duke of Sutherlaxd's Pictures by Murillo, Van Dyck, and P. Dela- roche. § Duke of Bedford's Dutch Pioturf.s, 6, Belgrave-square. § The C'orreggio (Christ in the Garden), and otlier pictures, at Apsley House. § The Van Dyck Portraits and Sketches (en grisaille), fine Cana letti (View of Whitehall), at Montague House, g Lady Garvagh's Kaphael, the Aldobraxdini Madonna, 2P, Portnian-square. g Duke of Grafton's Van Dyck, of Charles I. standing by his horse. The Holbeix, at Barber-Surgeons' Hall, Monkwell-strcet, City. § Titian's Cornaro Family, at Northumberland House; to be seen by an order from the Duke of Northimiberland only. RuEENs's Ceilixg, ill Inigo Jones's Banqueting House (now the Chapel Koyal), at Whitehall. Jlay be seen on Sunday morning after divine service. Old Masters and Diploma Pictures, at the Royal Academy. AVrite to the Keeper of the Royal Academy. The HoGARTiis and Canalettis, at the Soane Museum in Lincoln' s- Inn-tieUls. i The Hooarths, at the Foundling Hospital Lincoln's Inn Hall, and St. Bartholomew's Hospital. The Three Sir Joshua Reynolds' of the Dilettanti Society, at Willis's Rooms, King street, St. James's. ? The Van Dycks, at Earl de Grey's, in St. James's-square. ^ Sir Robert Peel's Dutch Pictures, in Privy Gardens, g The late Mr. Hope's Dutch Pictures, Piccadilly (corner of Dowa street). The Portraits in the British Museum, g Lord Lansdowne's Collection, Lansdowne House. Barry's Pictures at the Society of Arts, Adelphi. The Pictures in the Painted Hall, Greenwich Hospital, g The Duke of Devonshire's Gallery, Piccadilly, g Lord Ashburton's Collection, at Bath House, Piccadilly. iiORD Ward's Collection. g Marquis of Hertford's Collection, Manchester Square. g Lord Normanton's Collection. g Baron Rothschild's Murillo (Infant Saviour), at Gunnersbury, five miles from Hyde-1'ark-corner. g R. S. Holford's Collection, at Dorchester House, Park-lane, g Pool of Betiiesda, by Murillo, at George 'Tomline's, Esq., No. 1, C'arlton-House-terrace. Private Collections of II. A. J. Muxro, Esq., in Hamilton-place, Piccadilly; of Thomas Baring, Esq., M.P., 41, Upper Grosvenor- strcet; of Mrs. Gibbons, No. 17, Hanover- terrace. Regent's Park; of Sir Ciias. Eastlake, Fitzroy Square; Mr. B. G. Windus's Turner Drawings, at Tottenham, five miles from St. Paul's (shown every Tuesday to strangers bringing letters of introduction). The Dulwicii Gallery, daily, except Sundays, 10 to 5. Raphael's Cartoons, and other fine Paintings, at Hampton Court. The Pictures by Rubens, Van Dyck, &c., at Windsor. ITxJiilUions of Modern Pictures. KoTAL Academy of Arts, East Wing of the National Gallery, in Trafalgar-square. The Exhibition of the Academy, containing the xlvi §§ 27j 28. OBJECTS of interest to the [The StrangiT greatest novelties of the best English Artists, is open to the public daily from the first Monday in May till the end of July. Ad- mission, Is. ; Catalogue, Is. If you wish to see the pictures, go early, before 12. Society of British Artist.s, exhibiting betM-een 500 and 60O pictures annually, at Suffolk-street, Charing Cross. Admission, Is., open April to July. The British Institution', Pall-mall, contains from February to May between 300 and 400 modern pictures. From June to September there is AN Exhibition of Ancient Masters, collected from the principal private collections in town and counti'y. Admission, Is. Catalogue. Is. Society of Painters ix "Water Colours, Pall-mall East. Admission, Is., open April to August. Catalogue, Gd. Institute of Painters in Water Colours, Pall-mall. Admission, 1.^., open April to August. Catalogue, Gd. During the Loudon season (April, ]\Iay, and June) the Connoisseur should make a point of occasionallj- dropping in at the Auction Rooms of Christie and Manson, in King-street, St. James's-square ; and of Sotheby and Wilkinson, Welling- ton-street, Strand. Pictures of French Artists Galleet, Pall-mall, in the summer months. § 27. Objects of Interest to tJie Sculptor. The Nineveh, Elgin, Phigalian, Townlet, and other Marbles in the British Museum. Cas-relief, by Michael Angelo, at the Royal Academy. ^Yrite to the Keeper of the Royal Academy. The Sculpture in St. Paul's and Westminster Abbey. Statue of Charles I., by Le Sreur, at Charing-cross. Statue of James II., by Grinling Gibbons, behind Whitehall. g Statue of Napoleon, by C.anova, at Apsley House. Statues by the same artist at Buckingham Palace. § Two Fine Statues, by Canova, at (iunnersbuiy (five miles from Hyde- Park -comer), seat of Baron Lionel do Rothschild, M.P. The several Statues in the Squares and public Places — Pitt, by Chantrey, in llanovcr-square; Fox, by Westmacott, in Blooms- bury-squarc; C!annino, by Westmacott, near AVestmiustcr Hall; George III., by Wyatt, in Cockspur-street ; George IV., by Chan- trey, in Trafalgar-scjuare ; Duke of Wellington before the Royal Exchange, by Chantrey, and at Hyde-Park-corner, by AVyatt. The Italian and other Sculpture in the S. Kensington Museum, including Two Statues of JIadness and Melancholy, by Gibber, brought from Bethlehem Hospital. Richard Cosur de Lion, by Marochetti, Palace Yard (see sec. xxxi. p. 257). Flaxman's Models at University College, in Gowei-street. Write to C. C. Atkinson, Esq., at University College. g Marbles at Lansdowuc House, in Berkeley-square, the residence of the Marquis of Lansdowne. Thk fine Collection of Casts at the Crystal Palace, at Sydenham. ioLonJou.J SCULPTOR, ARCHITECT, AND EXGINEER. xlvii § 28. Objects of Inkri'st to the Architect and Engineer. Norman and Gothic. The Noniiau Chapel, in the Tower. The Norman Crypt, under the cliurcli of St. Mary-le-Bo«% St. Bartholomew - the - Great, Smithfield, tlie olde.st church in London. St. Mary Orery, London Bridge. "Westminster Abbey and IL\11. St. Michael's, Cornhill. Temple Church. Dutch Church, Austin Friars. Ely Place Chapel. Crypt at Guildhall. Crypt at St. John's, Clerkenwell. AUhallows Barking. St. Olave's, Ilart-street. Crosby Hall, liishopsgate-street, built 1466-1472. Savoy Chapel. St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell. Lambeth Palace — (Chapel and Hall, and Lollards' Tower). Ken'aissanx-k : Holland House, Kensington. Works, ev Ixigo Jonks: Banqueting House, Whiteliall. St. Paul's, Covent-garden. York House Watei-gate, close to Hungerfoid Bridge. Shaftesbury House, Aldersgatc- street. Lindsey House, Lincoln's-Inn- fields (AVest side). Ashbnrnham House Cloisters, Westminster. Lincoln's Inn Chapel. St. Catherine Crce — (part only). I'iazza, Covcnt-garden. Bv Sir CnRisTornEu Wrex : St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Stephen's, AValbrook. St. Mary-le-Bow, in Cheapside. St. Bride's, Fleet-street. St Magnus, London Bridge. St. James's, Piccadilly. Spire of St. Dunstan's-iu-the- East. St. Mary Alderniary. St. Michael's, Cornhill. Towersof St.Vedast, St..\ntholin, and St. Margaret Pattens. By Gibcs : St. Martin-in-the-Fields. St. Mary-le-Strand. By Ha wksmoor (Wren's pupil) : St. Mary A\''oolnoth, near the Mansion House. Christ Church, Spitalfields. St. George's, Bloomsbury. Limehouse Church. By Lord Burlington : Colonnade, at Burlington House. Duke of Devonshire's Villa at Chiswick. By Sir AVilliam CnASiBEitS : Somerset House. By Kent : Marquis of Bath's House, No. 41, Berkeley-square. By Dance (Senior) : The Mansion House. By Dance (Junior): Newgate. By Mylne : Blackfriars Bridge. By John Rennie : Waterloo Bridge. By Sir John Soane : Bank of England. By Nash : Kegent-street. Buckingham Palace (east front excepted, which is by Bloke;. By Decimus Burton : Athenainm Club, Pall-mall. Colosseum, in the Pegent's Park. Gateways at llyde-l'ark-corner. By Philip Hardwick ("and Son) : Goldsmith,s' Hall. Lincoln's Inn Hall. Euston-sqnare Rail way Terminus. By Sir Robert Smirke: British Museum. Post Office. xlviii § 29. OBJECTS OF IXTEREST to antiquary. [The StrangCT By Sir Charles Barry: Houses of Parliament. Reform Club, Pall-mall. Travellers' Club, Pall-mall. Treasury, Whitehall. Bridgewater House. By Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. : Carlton Club-house. Conservative Club-house. Interior of Pantheon. By G.G.Scott, A.R.A. : Camberwell New Church. The New Government Offices, Downing Street. By BENjAJny Ferrey : St. Stephen's Church, Rochester- row, Westminster. By Edmund Street: St. James the Less Church, Gar- den Street, Vauxhall Koad. By Carpenter: All Saints', Margaret-street, Ca- vendish-square. Br Butterfielu : St. Mary Magdalen, Munster- square. By Messrs. Raphael, Brandon, AND Robert Ritchie: Catholic and Apostolic [or Irving- itej Church, Gordon-square. The Stations of the great Rail- ways, viz., Great Western, North AVestern, Great North- ern, South Eastern, Victoria, &c. § 29. Objects of Interest lo the Antiquary. The British Museum. The Tower. AVestminster Abbey, and Chapter House. The Remains of London AVall, in St. Martiu's-court, off Ludgate-hill. London Stone, inserted in the outer wall of the church of St. Swithin in Cannon-street. The top is seen through an oval opening. Camden considers it to have been the central MiUiarium, or mile- stone, similar to that in the Foi'um at Rome, from which the British high roads radiated, and from which the distances on them were reckoned. It is a block of Kentisli Rag (Lower Greensand), encased in a frame of Bath stone. Jack Cade struck London Stone with his sword, exclaiming " Now is Jack Cade lord of the City." The Collection at the City of London Library, at Guildhall. The Roman Bath under the Coal Exchange, at Billingsg.ato. The Museum op the Society of Axtiquaiues, at Somerset House. AVrite to the Secretary, for permission. The Gothic Churches named iu p. xlvii. St. John's Gate, Clerkenwell. Stained-glass AVindow, in St. Margaret's, AATestminster. Monument of Camden, in AA'estminster Abbey. Monument of Stow, in St. Andrew's Undersh.aft, Leadenhall-street. g The China (especially Faience of Henri II.) of Sir Anthony de Rothschild, IJart., 2, Grosvenor-place Houses, Ilyde-Park-comer. Sword and Turquoise Rino of James IV. of Scotland, at Heralds' College. South Kensington Museum. Collection of Italian and other sculpture, wood carviiigs, majolic.T, ivories, etc. Mondays, Tuesd.iys and Satur- days, free. § .30. Places and S/r/hts, Museums, dc, which a Stranr/a- imcst see. The TowEE, daily, Sundays excepted, 10 to 4, charge GJ. WesTiMinster Abbey, to be seen daily, Sundays excepted. >B London.] § 30. PLACES AND SIGHTS TO BE SEEX. xlix St. Paul's Cathedr.\l, dailj-, Sundays excepted. British Museum, free, Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, 10 to 4. National Gallehy, free, Mondays, Tuesdays, AVednesdays, and Saturdays. Houses of Parliament. Saturday, between 10 and 4. Tickets are to be obtained by all respectable applicants, (gratis), at the Lord Great Chamberlain's office, in the Court, near the Victoria Tower. Westminster Hall. South Kensington Museum. Mondays, Tuesdays, and Saturdays. St. James's Park and Palace. Lambeth Palace, to be seen by order from the Archbishop of Can- terbury. Apsley House, to be seen by order from the Duke of Wellington. HVDE Park, Rotten Row, and the Serpentine Drive, between 12 and 2, and 5 to 7 p.m., from May to July. Kensington Gardens, between J past 5 and J past 6 in May and June. The band plays Tuesdays and Fridays. Whitehall Banqueting House. The spot whore Charles I. was be- headed. "Thames between Chelsea and Greenwich. Charing Cross and Charles I.'s Statue. Waterloo Bridge. Thames Tunnel, open daily, admission \J. By steam from Ilungcrford or London Bridge. London Docks. Get a tasting order for the wine-vault.<(. Metropolitan C.\ttle Market (the modern Smithfield); to see the market, go early on a Monday. Covent-oarden Market; go on a Saturday morning early. London Stone. (Described above.) Temple Bar and St. John's Gate. Tire Monument, to commemorate the Fire of London in 1666, open daily, Sundays excepted, admission 3-at Britain and her Colonies, in Piccadilly, entrance la Jermyn- stieet. United Service Museum, at AYhitehall. East India Museum, Fife House, AVlntehall Yard. Mondays, "Wednes- da>s, and irioays, from 10 to 4. Prcducts of Iiiilia, and other curiosities. London Bridge, about J past 9 in the morning, when it is most crowded with passengers, all pushing into the City on business ; or at J past 4 and 5 p.m. "Wesi minster Bridge. Best point of view for tlie Houses of Parliament. The Opening of Parliament, generally in February, and its proroga.i tion, generally in July. The Horticultural F£tes at the Eoyal Botanic Gardens, f May. Ilegent's Park ; and at the Royal Hrrticultural Si ci. ty's-< June. Ga den >onth K>-n-^ingtnn. |_ July, The Thames, by moonlight, from 'Westminster Bridge. The Great Hall of the North-Western Terminus, Euston-square. The Post Office Arcade, St. Manin's-le-Grand, at 6 o'clock on Satur- days, when the gi'and rush to post newspapers takes place. To see the sorting process immediately after, an order from SirKowland H 11 is neces-ary, and is granted only on application of foreign ministers, &c. The Inner Temple Gardens. The Bank of England CellarSj and Machines for weighing coia and printing bank-notes, by order from a Director. The Coal Exchange, Lower Thames-street. The Long Koom in the Custom House. Break-neck Stairs off the Old Bailey, affording a capital notion of the strength of London when enwalled. § 31. Places near London which a Stranger should sec. "Windsor Castle, by Great AYestem Railway from Paddington, or by South Western Railway from Waterloo Station. The state apart- ments are open gratuitously to the public on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, by the Lord Chamberlain's tickets, to be obtained in London (gratis) of Messrs. Paul and Dominic Colnaghi, Printsellers, No. 14, Pall-mall East; of Mr. MilchtU, Bookseller, No. 33, Old Bond-street; and of Mr. Wright, 15o..kseller, No. 60, Pall-uiiiU ; of whom also Guide-books may be ■ btiiiund, for oue penny each. The tickets are available for one week from the day they are issued. They are not transferable, and it is ciuitrary to Her Majesty's command that payment for, or in reference to, them be still, two-fifths of the matter of which the type is the exponent, was unwritten at seven o'clock on the previous evening. Th number of compositors employed is 110, and the number of pressmen 25. The Times prints 2i)0 sheets a minute. The cii dilation of the Times is 59,000 per diem; of these 33,000 are distributed by news-agents in London; 26,000 go into the country (of which 22,000 are conveyed by railway trains), and .5,8iiO by post. — Chan- cellor of the Exchequer in the " 2'imes " of March 19(A, 1S55. an London.] § 31. PLACES NEAPw LONDON TO BE SEEN. li made to any pfirson whatever. The hours of admission to the state ■apartments are, — from 1st April to 31st October, between 11 and 4; and fiom 1st November to 31st March, between 11 and 3. The Inns at Windsor are tlie White Hart and the Crown (neither very good). ■Eton College, 1 mile from Windsor. Hampton Court, by Soutli- Western Railway, three-quarters of an hour distant from Waterloo Station. Tlie state apartments are open gratuitously to the public on everyday except Friday (when they are closed for the purpose of being cleaned), from 10 o'clock, a.m., until 6 o'clock (SunJai/s from 2 to B), from the 1st of April to the 1st of ■October, and the remainder of the year from 10 until -1. The Vine, in the Private Garden, and the Maze, in the Wilderness, are open •every day until sunset; for tliese a small fee is required by the gar- deners who sho* them. Inns — The King's Arms, the Mitre, aud the Greyhoutd. Guide-books (price Gd. and 3d.), containing a com- plete catalogue of the pictures, may be had in the Palace. CiBEENWicil Hospital, by Greenwich Kailway from London Bridge Station, or by steamboat from Hungerlord Market Stairs, or Loudon Bridge. {See. Painted Hall, the Pensioners at the r tea, i^-c.) Woolwich Arsenal, by North Kent Railway from London Bridge or by Kailway to Blackwall Pier, and thence by Steamer; or by Stennier from llungfrford or Loudon Bridge. Open every day, except Sundays. Arsenal »nd Koyal Military Repository, 9 till half-past 11; 1 till 4. Admission. — By tickets given by the Jlaster-General •of the Ordnance, certain Offirers of the Artillery, or the personal €scort of any of the officers. Sirangers are admitted to walk about the grounds of the Arsenal, but not to entr the huUdings. In the Ar.sen.il: the Foundry for casting, boring cannon; Sir Wm. Arm- strong's Cannon Manufactory, established here 1859, is shown by special tickets on Tuesdays. In ihe Laboratory the several sorts of ammunition are prepared; percussion caps, cartridges, rockets, and shells aie maiie and filled; heie also is (he macliinery of all kinds for preparing articles for the use of the Artillery service. On Woolwich Common, near the Royal Artillery Barracks and Military Acad my, is the Rotunda, or lioynl Military llepository (open daily to tlif public, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.), a museum of models of Batteries, Artillery, Vessels, Barracks, various Forts, Towns, Rock of Gibraltar, Lin«s of Torres Vedras, Aic. In front of the Artillery Barracks is the Trophy Gun (16 ft. 4 in. long), taken at Burtpoor. It was made for the Emperor Aurengzt-be, 1677. Also 4 Florentine cannon, 1750. The best way of seeing Wool- wich and its curiosities is to obtain the escort of an Artillery officer. The Government Ordnance Stores in all parts of the world are valued at six millions, and of this sum, goods to the value of more than 2 millions are deposited at Woolwich. Kveiything necessary to equip an Hrmy is here provided in readiness : a siege train of 105 guns, and 7.1 1 rounds for each. Woolwich Dockyard, open daily, 9 to 11, and li to 3, in winter, to 5 in summer. Set the Docks, Basins, Building Sheds, Blacksmiths' Shops. Nasmytli's Ilamjueis, and Machinery. Crvstal Palace, at Sydenham, erected 1853-4, at a cost of £1,450,000— one million more than the original estimate. The expenses have been £60,000 a year. Trains from London Bringe and Victoria Station, Pimlico, every i hour. The inspection of the interior will furnish occupation for 3 or 4 hours. Concert every day. The ex- terior, gardens and water-works, alone will repay a visit. Open daily, Is. ; Saturdays, 2s. TcZ. ; CI ildren. Is. ULWiCH Galleey, a Cne collection of pictures, by old masters, open lii § 32. HINTS TO FOREIGNERSj ETC. [The Stranper daily (exc«pt Sunday) 10 to 5, free. Omnibus from Cbaring^ Cross ; rail from Victoria Station and London Bridge. Holland House, Kensington, can only be seen by order. The exterior, however, will repay a visit, and may be seen from the Kensingtoa- road. A pleasant walk up pathway near the house. Hampstead and Highgate, the two companion hills nf rth of London, are pleasant places in themselves, and afford excellent views of London. Kew Royal Botanio Gardens are open gratuitously to the public every day from 1 till dark ; Sundays 2 to 6. The Royal Pleasure Grounds (sometimes by strangers confounded with the Botanic Gardens) constitute a separate though adjoining portion of orna- mental ground, open gratuitously to the public from Midsummer-day to Michaelmas, every day, by three gates : two in the road leading from Kew to Richmond, called the Lion Gate and the Pagoda Oaie, and one by the river side, nearly opposite Brentford Ferry, and called the Brentford Oate. View from the Terrace and the Park at Richsiond. View from Greenwich Observatoet. "Wimbledon Common, 2 miles from Station of South Western Railway. In July during the Meetings of the National Kifle Association and the Volunteer Reviews. View from Harrow Churchyard. St. Alban's Abbev, 21 miles north of London (trains from Euston- square, London and Nor.h Western Railway, in I5 hour). In St. Michael's Church, about 1 milefrom the abbey, the great Lord Bacon is buried. Here is a statue of him. 5 32. HINTS TO FOREIGNERS. By the law of Great Britain all foreigners have unrestricted right of entrance and residence in this country, and while they remain in it, are, equally with British subjects, under the protection of the law ; nor can they be punished except for an offence against the law, and under the sentence of the ordinary tribunals of justice, after a public trial, and on a conviction founded on evidence given in open Court. No foreigners, as such, can be sent out of this country by the Executive Government, except persons removed by virtue of treaties with other States, confirmed by Act of Parliament, for the mutual surrender of criminal offenders. Foreignora may obtain admission in general to private collections not usually shown, by applying from their several ambassadors or ministers to the owner. Such an ambassadorial request will also procure for foreigners entrance to the Rojal Dockyards, AVoolwicb Arsenal, ifec. §33. NEWSPAPERS. The p. incipal London morning newspapers are the Times, published daily (Sunday excepted). Office, Printing House-square, Blackfriars; the Daily Xews ; the Morning Advertiser ; the Morning Herald; the Morning Post. For evening news see the Second Edition of the Times, the Olobe, and the Express. Also, Penny V&^tti— Standard, Morning and Euning Star, and 2'clegrapfi, in London.] § 36. METROPOLITAN IMPROVEMENTS. liii § 3J. SPECIAL SUNDAY EVENING SERVICES AND POPULAR PREACHERS. At St. Paul's, ■) Services of the Church of Eng- ■Westminster Adbet, y land, Sacred Music, and Sermon, And Exeter Hall, Strand J at 7 p.m. Lincoln's Inn Chapel. Whitehall.— Preachers appointed by the Queen— Special Preachers during Lent : t-elected Divines from Oxford and Cambridge. All Saints', Margarct-strcct. Scotch Church, Drury-lane.— Kev. Dr. Gumming at 11 a.m. and 7 p.m. Foundling Hospital.— Good music. After service, visitors may see the children at tlieir dinner. St. James's Hall, Piccadilly (Nonconformisi). Mb. Spurqeon's Tabernacle, close to the Elephant and Castle, a vast building of Italian architecture, with porticos, has cost, including the land, £31,000, raised by voluntary subscriptiAEL(6). — Claude (4) : Morning (a little picture; ; Morning, with the story of Apuleius ; Evening, Moses before the Burning Bush ; Morning (composition picture). — Rembkandt (5); Samuel and Eli; Portrait of Himself; Portrait of a Burgomaster; Portrait of a Ladj'; Head of aMan. — Rubens(3): St. Tlieresa(sketch of the large picture in the Museum at Antwerp); Mercury bearing Hebe to Olymjius; Lady with a fan in her hand (half-length). — Van Dyck (1) : the Virgin and Child. — Backhuysen (2), — Cuyp (6): Landing of Prince Slaurice at Dort (the masterpiece of this artist). — Vandeevelde (7) : Rising of the Gale (very fine); Entrance to the Brill; a Calm; Two Naval Battles; a Fresh Breeze; View of the Texel. — Teniers (8): Dutch Kermis or Village Fair (76 figures) ; Village Wedding; AVinter Scene in Flanders, the Traveller ; Ninepins; Alchymist in his Study ; Two Interiors. — Jan Steen (2): the Schoolmaster (very fine); the Fishmonger. — A.0stade(6) Interior of a Cottage; Lawyer in his Study; Village Alehouse; Dutch Peasant drinking a Health; Tric-Trac ; Dutch Courtship. — G. Douw (3): Interior, with his own Portrait (very fine); Portrait of Himself; a Woman selling Herrings. — Terburo (1): Young Girl in white satin drapery. — N. Maes (1): a Girl at Work (very fine). — Hobbema (3). — Metzu (3). — Philip Wouvermans (4). —Peter Wouvermans (1). — Unknown (1) : — Dobkon (1): Head of Ckvohviul, the poet. — Lelt: Countess of .\Hddlesex (elegant). — Richard Wilson. R.A. (2). — G. S. Newton, R.A. (1); Young Lady hiding her face in grief. — J.M»W. Turner, R.A. (1): Gale at Sea, (nearly as fine as the fine Vandervelde in this collection. Rising of the Gale). — F. Stone (1): Scene from Philip Van Artevelde. — Paul Delakoche (1) : Charles I. in the Guard- room, insulted by the soldiers of the Parliament. HI. — CHESTERFIELD MOUSE. 19 The house stands on the site of what was once Bei'kshii'e House, then Cleveland House, and afterwards Bi'idgewater House. Cards to view the Bridgew.ater Gallery can be obtained from Messrs. Smith, 1.37, New Bond-street; Mr. Mitchell, 33, Old Bond-street; Mr. Sams, 1, St. James' s-street ; H. Graves & Co., 6, Pall Mall ; Colnaghi & Co., 13, Pall Mall East ; Days of admission, Mond.ays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Fridays, from 10 till 5 — Catalogues may be bad at Messrs. Smith's, and at the Gallery. CHESTERFIELD HOUSE, South Audlet-steeet, facing Hyde Park. Tlie town-house of the Earl of Chesterfield, but let (1852) to the Warquis of Abercorn. It was built by- Isaac Ware, the editor of Palladio, for Philip, fourth Earl of Chestertield, author of the celebrated Letters to his Son, and stands on ground belonging to Curzon, Earl Howe. The boudoir was called by Lord Chesterfield the gayest and most cheerful room in England, and the library the best. "In the magnificent mansion which the earl erected in Audley-street, you may still see his favourite apartments furnished and decorated as he left them — among the rest, what he boasted of as ' the finest room in London,' and perhaps even now it remains unsurpassed, bis spacious and beautiful library, looking on the finest private gai-den in London. The walls are covered half way up with rich and classical stores of literature; above the cases are in close series the portraits of eminent authors, French and English, with most of whom he had conversed; over these, and immediately under the massive cornice, extend all round in foot-long capitals the Horatian lines :— NUNC . VETEBUM . LIBRIS . NUNC . SOMNO. ET . INERTIBUS . HOEIS. DUCERE . SOLICIT.E . JUCUNDA . OBLIVI.\ . VIT.E. On the mantel-pieces and cabinets stand busts of old orators, inter- spersed with voluptuous vases and bronzes, antique or Italian, and aii-y statuettes in m.arble or alabaster, of nude or seminude Opera nymphs. ■^^e shall never recall that princely room without fancying Chesterfield receiving in it a visit of his only child's mother — while probably some new favourite was sheltered in the dim mysterious little boudoir within — which still remains also in its original blue damask and fretted gold-work, as described to Madame de Monconseil." — Quarterly Review, No. 152, p. 484. Lord Chesterfield, in his Letters to his Son, speaks of the Canonical pillars of his house, meaning the columns brought from Canons, the seat of the Duke of Chandos. The grand staircase came from the same magnificent house. Observe. — Portrait of the poet Spenser ; Sir Thomas Lawrence's un- finished portrait of himself; and a lantern of copper-gilt for 18 candles, bought by the Earl of Chesterfield at the sale at Houghton, the seat of Sir Robert Walpole. Stanhope-street, adjoining tlie house (also built by Lord Chesterfield), stands on ground belonging to the Dean and Chapter of Westminster. Lord Chesterfield died (] 773) in this house, desiring by will that his remains might be buried in the next burying-place to the place where he should die, and that the expense of his funeral might not exceed lOOZ. He was accordingly interred c2 20 111. — HOLLAND HOUSE. in Grosvenor Chapel, in Soutli Audley-street, but his remains were afterwards removed to Shelford in Nottinghamshire. HOLLAND HOUSE, Kensington, two miles from Hyde- Park-corner (during the life of the late Lord Holland, the meeting-place for Wliig politicians, for poets, painters, critics, and scholars), was built in 1607 (John Thorpe, architect) for Sir Walter Cope, whose daughter and co-heir married Henry Rich (second son of Robert, Earl of Warwick), created by King James I., Baron Kensington and Earl of Holland, and beheailed (1649) for services rendered to King Charles I. The widow of Robert Rich, Earl of Holland and Earl of Warwick, was married, in 1716, to Addison, the poet; and here, at Holland House, occurred that " awful scene," as Johnson has called it, with the Earl of Warwick, a young man of very irregular life and loose opinions. " I have sent for you," said Addison, " that you may see how a Christian can die I " after which he spoke with difficulty, and soon expired. On the death, in 1759, of Edward Rich, the last Eaii of Holland and Warwick, the house descended by females to William Edwardes, created Baron Kensington, and by him was sold to Henry Fox, first Baron Holland of that name, and father of Charles James Fox. Lord Holland died here, July 1st, 1774. During his last illness, George Selvvyn called and left his card ; Selwyn had a fondness for seeing dead bodies, and the dying lord, fully comprehending his feeling, is said to have remarked, " If Mr. Selwyn calls again, show him up ; if I am alive I shall be delighted to see him, and if I am dead he would like to see me." The late Lord Holland called on Lord Lansdowne a little before his death, and showed him an ej^itaph, composed by himself for himself. " Here lies Henry Vassall Fox, Lord Holland, &c., who was drowned while sitting in his elbow-chair ; " he died in this house in his elbow-chair of water in the chest. " It will be a great pity when this ancient liouse must come down, and give way to rows and crescents. It is not that Holland House is fine as a building — on the contrary, it has a tumble-down look; and although decorated with the bastard-gothic of James I.'s time, the front is heavy. But it resembles many respe^able matrons, who, having been abso- lutely ugly during youth, acquire by age an air of dignity. But one is chiefly afi'ected by the air of deep seclusion which is spread around the domain." — Sir Walter Scott. The stone gateway close to the house (on the east) was de- signed by Inigo Jones, and carved by Nicholas Stone, master- mason to James I. The I'aised terrace in front was made in 1847-48. William IH. and his queen resided in Holland House while negotiating for the mu'chase of what is now Ken- sington Palace. III. — BATH HOUSE. 21 BATH HOUSE, Piccadilly, No. 82, corner of Bolton- street. The i-esideuce of Lord Ashburton, built by Alexander Baring, first Lord Ashburton (d. 184S), on the site of the old Bath House, the residence of the Pultenoys. Here is a noble collection of Works of Art, selected with great good taste, and at a great expense. Pictures of the Dutch and Flemish Schools form the main part of the collection. Observe. — Thorwaldsen's Slercury as the Slayer of Argus. " The transition from one action to another, as he ceases to play the flute and takes the sword, is expressed with incomparable animation." — Waugen. — Leonardo da Vixci (?): the Infant Christ asleep in the arras of the Virgin; an Angel lifting the quilt from the bed. — LuiNi: Virgin and Child.— Cokreggio (?) : St. Peter, St. Margaret, St. Mary Magdalene, and Anthony of Padua. — Giorgione : a Girl, with a very beautiful profile, lays one hand on the shoulder of her lover. — Titian: the daughter of Herodias with the head of St. John.— Paul Veronese: Christ on the Mount of Olives (a cabinet picture). — Annibale Caracci: the Infant Christ asleep, and three Angels. — Domenichino : Moses before the Burning Bush. — Guerciko : St. Sebastian mourned by two Angels (a cabinet picture). — Murillo : St. Thomas of Villa Nueva, as a child, distributes alms among four Beggar-boys; the Madonna sur- rounded by Angels; the Virgin and Child on clouds surrounded by three Angels; Christ looking up to Heaven. — Velasquez: a Stag Hunt. — Kubens : the Wolf Hunt — a celebrated picture painted in 1612. ' The lire of a fine dappled grey horse, which carries Kubens himself, is expressed with incomparable animation. Next him, on a brown horse, is his first wife, Caroline Brant, with a falcon on her hand." — Waagen. Rape of the Sabines ; reconciliation of the Romans and Sabiues. " Both these sketches are admirably composed, and in every respect excellent; few pictures of Rubens, even of his most finished works, give a higher idea of his genius." — Sir Joshua Reynolds. — Vandvck : the Virgin Mary, with the Child upon her lap, and Joseph seated in a land- scape looking at the dance of eight Angels ; Count Nassau in armour (three-quarter size); one of the Children of Charles I. with flowers (bust); Charles I. (full-length); Henrietta Maria (full-length).— Rem- brandt : Portrait of Him.self at an advanced age; Portrait of a middle- aged Man ; Lieven Von Coppenol (the celebrated writing-master) with a sheet of paper in his hand (very fine); two Portraits (Man and Wife). — G. Dow : a Hermit praying before a crucifix. " Of all Dow's pictures of this kind, this is carried the furthest in laborious execution." — Waagen. — Terburo : a Girl in a yellow jacket, with a lute. — G. SIetzu : a Girl in a scarlet jacket. "In the soft bright manner of Metzu; sweetly true to nature, and in the most perfect harmony."— 71 on^e?i. — Is'etscher : Boy leaning on the sill of a window, blowing bubbles. " Of the best time of the master." — Waagen. — A. Vanderwerff: St. Mar- garet treading on the vanquished Dragon. — Jan Steen : an Alehouse, a composition of thirteen figures. "A real jewel." — Waagen. Playing at SkitilfS. — De Hooge : a Street in Utrecht, a Woman and Child walking in the sunshine (very fine). — Teniers : the Seven Works of Mercy : the picture so celebrated by the name of La Manchot; Portrait of Himself (whole-length, in a black Spanish costume); Court Yard of a Village Alehouse; a Landscape, with Cows and Slieep. — A. Ostade (Several fine). — I. Ostade: Village Alehouse. — Paul Potter: Cows, &c., marked with his name and the date 1652 ; Oxen butting each other in play; the Church Steeple of Haarlem at a distance.— A. Van- dervelde: the Hay Harvest; Three Cows, &c. — Berghem : " Heie we see what the master could do." — Waagen.— 'Vixv.'e.h du Jardin : a AVater- 22 III. — HERTFORD HOUSE. mill. — Philip Wouveemams. — Cutp. — Wtnants. — Ruysdael. — Hob- BEMA. — W. Vandervelde : "la petite Flotte." — Backhutsen. — Vander Hevden: Market-place of Henskirk, near Haarlem. — Vax Huysam : Flower Pieces. — Holbein : a Head. — Sib Joshua Reynolds : Head of Ariadne. HOLDERNESSE HOUSE, Park Lane, town residence of Frances Anue, Mai'chiouess of Londonderry, is cue of the most splendid as well as conveniently planned mansions in London (S. and B. Wyatt, architects), and commands a charm- ing view over Hyde Park. It is remarkable also for several fine works of art and vcrtu — some of them fiifts of the Allied Sovereigns to the second Marquis — vases and tables of mala- chite. The grand gallery is very magnificent. Among the works of art are — Andrea del Sarto : a Holy Family> probably the finest work by the raastf r in this country, from Count Fries's gallery: — a fine Titian. — Lawrence: Portraits, whole lenath, of Lady Londonderry; of the Duke of Wellington in civil attire, 1814; of George IV., bis. — By Hoppner: Wm. Pitt, three-quarter size: — the original. — ? Hercules and Antseus. Statues. — By Canova : Theseus and the Minotaur, perhaps his most splendid work. -Chantrey: Bust of the Minister, first Lord Londonderry. — Four Statuettes of Kosso Antico, of Victory— very fine: — gifts of Pope Pius IV. to chelate Lord Londonderry. — Knight's Waterloo and Penin- sular Heroes: Sevres Vase, six feet high— gift of Louis XVIII. HARCOURT HOUSE, Cavexdish Square, west side, concealed by a high and dilapidated brick wall, the resi- dence of Bentinck, Duke of Portland, one of the richest of the English aristocracy. It was built by Lord Bingley, and originally called Bingley House. Within the enclosure of the square is a statue to the late Lord George Bentinck. HERTFORD HOUSE, Piccadilly, corner of Engine-street, built (1850-53) by Richard Seymour Conway, Slarquis of Hertford — the fa9ade having formed part of the Pulteney Hotel, where the Emperor Alexander of Russia put up during the memorable visit of the Allied Sovereigns in 1814, and where the Duchess of Oldenburgh (the Emperor Alex- ander's sister) introduced Prince Leopold to the Princess Charlotte. MANCHESTER HOUSE, Manchester Square, Marquis of Hertford: is one of the most sumptuous Mansio'is, and contains one of the very finest collections of paintings in London, formed chieHy, 1845 to 1860, by the present owner, who has spared no cost ; many are purchases from the best portions of the galleries of the King of Holland and Marshal Soult. Observe.— The "Water-Mill, the chef- d'osuvre of Hobhema ; la Vierge de Pade, the masterpiece of Aiuirea del Sarto; Portraits of Philippe and Madame le III. — SIR ROBERT PEEL's, 23 Roy, two noble specimens of Vandyck ; Holy Family, by Rubens (2478Z.) ; the Unmerciful Servant, by iZejn 5 raxt?^, from Stows, cost 2300/.; Nelly O'Brien, by Sir JoJiua Riijiujlds, one of the finest portraits in the world ; Mrs. Braildyl ; The Girl with a dcg ; and Stiawberry Girl, all by Reynolds; 4 Holy Families, Murillo ; The Kaiubow Landscape, i2«.6e/is „• The Rape of Europa, Titian; — 16 Canalettos ; Views of Venice, —.4. Oi'ade ; The Fishmonger, — Meizu; The Sports- man (cost 3000/.)- HOUSE OF SIR ROBERT PEEL, Privy Gardens, contains a very fine collection of Dutch, Flemish, and English pictures, farmed by the late Sir Robert Peel, at great cost, and with extreme good taste. The collection ornaments the walls of rooms in the daily occupation of the family, and consequently cannot be very often shown to strangers. The Dutch and Flemish Pictures, some 72 in number ; 3 by Rembrandt ; 1 by Rubens, the well-known Chapeau de Paille, (3500 guineas), and the Triumph of Si- lenus, (1100?.); 2 by Van Dyek, a Genoese Senator and his wife, bought at Genoa by Sir David Wilkie ; 7 by i). Teniers ; 2 by Isaac Osfade, one a Village Scone, very fine ; 1 by Adrian Ostade ; 1 by Jan Stecn ; 1 by Terburg ; 2 by O. Metzu ; 1 by F. Mieris ; 1 by W. Ifieris ; 1 by G. Douw, the Poulterer's Shop, fine ; 3 by Guyp, one an Old Castle, very fine ; 4 by Uobbema, one very fine, the ducks and geese by Wyntrank, and the figures by Lingelback ; 2 by De Hooghe ; 1 by Paul Potter; 3 by Ruysdael; 2 by Backliuysen ; 1 by Beryhem ; 1 by Gonzales Coques ; 3 by Karel du Jardin; 6 by Wouvermans ; 2 by Vander Heyden ; 3 by .4. Vandervelde, one a Calm, very fine; 8 by IF. Vander- velde ; 1 by F. Snyders ; 2 by Wynants ; 1 by Slingelandt ; 1 by Ja7i. Linfjelback ; 1 by Moucheron and A. Vandervel'le ; 3 by Caspar Netscher. The late Sir Robert Peel died (1850) in the dining-room of this house — the room towards the river. HOUSE OF HENRY THOMAS HOPE, Esq., M.P., in Piccadilly, at the corner of Down-street, built 1848-49, from the designs of M. Dusillon and Mr. Donaldson. The handsome iron railing in front was cast at Paris, by Mons. J. P. V. Andre. The cost of the whole building is said to have been 30,0U0Z. Mr. Hope is the possessor of the celebrated collection of pictures (chiefly Dutch) formed at the Hague by the family of the Hopes — and described by Sir Joshua Reynolds. It is not shown to the public. Vamdyck: The Assumption of the Virgin; a faint jncture. Charity. — KUBENS : The Shipwreck of .(Enoas ; the clouds in Mr. Turner's mamier 24 III. — MR. hope's. I' Highly poetical in the design, and executed in a most masterly manner in a deep full tone." — ]f'aaffen. — Claude: Landscape. — S.Rosa: Land- scape. — DoMENiCHiNO : St. Sebastian. — Giorgione : Judltli with the Head of Holoferues. — Rembra.sdt: Young Woman in an Arm-chair by which a Man is standing. "One of the rare family portraits of this master in whole-length figures." — Waagen. — Backhuysen : Sea Piece with Ships. " A large and capital picture." — Sir J. R. — Netscher : Lady at a Window with Parrot and Ape, marked 1664. — Jan Steen : An Oyster Feast, " in which is introdnced an excellent figure of Old Mieris, standing with his hand.'i behind him." — Sir J. R. — Lairesse : Death of Cleopatra. — Van der Helst : Halt of Travellers. " In A'an der Heist's middle and best period." — Waagen. — Rembrandt: Our Saviour in the Tempest. " In this picture there is a great effect of light, but it is carried to a degree of affectation." — Sir J. R. — Terbukg : The Music Lesson; the Trumpeter. — F. Mieris: A Gentleman with a Violin; a young Woman with her back turned is making out the reckoning, marked 1660. "This picture, painted when he was only twenty-six years of age, is one of his great master-pieces." — Waagen. — Metzu : Woman reading a Letter Woman writing a Letter. — Schalken: Man reading by Candlelight. " A carefully executed picture ; the impasto particularly good." — ITao^e;!. — Ruysdael : Landscape, Cattle and Figures. — Verkolje : David and Bathsheba. — A. Vandervelde: Cattle at a Watering-place ; an evening scene ; a wonderful picture : perhaps tlie finest Adrian Vandervelde in the world. — P. de Hoogb ; An interior, with Figures. " Spoiled by cleaning."— Waagen. — Weenix : A Dead Swan and Dead Hare. "Perfect every way; beyond Honde- koeter."— 6'(> J. B. — VANDEr.\VERF : The Incredulity of St. Tliomas. D. Tenters : Soldiers playing at Backgammon. — G.Dow: " A Woman at a Window with a Hare in her Hand. Bright ctdouring and well drawn' ' — D. Teniers : Soldiers Smoking. — P. Potter: Exterim- of Stable — Cattle and Figures. — P. Wouvermans: Halt of Hawking Party (fine). — A. Ostade : Exterior of Cottage with Figures. — Hobbema : Wood Scenery. — Terburg . Trumpeter waiting (fine). — Wouvermans : Cavaliers and Ladies, Bagpiper, &c. " The best I ever saw." — Sir J, M. — Metzu : Lady in blue velvet tunic and white satin petticoat. — CuTP : Cattle and a Shepherd. " The best I ever saw of him ; and the figure likewise is better than usual; hut the employment which he has given the shepherd in his solitude is not very poetical." — Sir J. R. — P. Gyzens : Dead Swan and small Birds. " Highly finished and well coloured." — Sir J. R. Antiquities, Vases, &c. The antiques are, for the most part, unfor- tunately much disfigured by indifferent restorations, and there is much tliat was originally of little value. The vases consist of the second collection made by Sir William Hamilton at Naples ; and among them are several choice specimens. Some of the pictures enumerated above have been removed, it is understood, to Deepdeue, Mr. Hope's beautiful seat near Doi'king, in Surrey. HOUSE OF BARON LIONEL ROTHSCHILD, Picca- dilly, contains a few fine pictures : good specimen of Cuyp, " Skating ; " a choice De Hooge, a good Greuze, Head of a Girl, and The Pinch of Snuff, an early work of Wilkie; with a noble collection of hanaps, cups, &c., of fourteenth and fif- teenth century work ; rare old chiua, fine carvings in ivory, Szc III. — BARON Rothschild's. — Dorchester house. 25 DORCHESTER HOUSE, Park Lane, Hyde Park, residence of R. S. Holford, Esq. (Lnois Vulliamy, architect). A building of good de.-ign, and showing in its interior the most refined taste and splendour. Heside- the picture gallery, it contains a mo>t ciio ce and valuable Libranj. — Among the pictures very fine specimen of Ilobbema ; View of Dort from the River, by Cuy}}, veiy fine ; good examples of Claude, Both, Isaac Ostade, &c. : Columbus by Wilkk. Mr. Hoi ford's countiy house is at Westoubirt, Tetbuiy, Gloucestershire. HOUSE OF H. a. J. MUNRO, Esq., Hamilton Place, Pic- cadilly, last house on right-hand side. Oliserve.— The Lucca Madonna and Child, by liaphael ; St. Francis Praying, a small picture by Filippo Lrppi ; Landscape by Gaspar Poussiii, fine; Les Ueux Petites .Marquises, halt-lengths, size of life, by Walleau, very fine; characteristic specimens of Jan Steen, one "After a Kepast," very clever; hIso, good, if not choice, specimens of Cuyp, Vandermldp., Ba,khuij!:en, &c. Mrs. Stanhope, lialf-lenf;th, ia •\i\\\\,v,hy Sir Jo-hua BeynoUU, very fine ; 5 fine Landscape'*, by iJic/uM'd ^\il!lon; large Vit-w in Venice, the masterpiece of Bonington ; The Fishiiiarket, by Bonington; The Good Samaritan, by Utty, a choice spe<;imen: 2 fine Italian Landscapes, by Turner, iu the bi^st time of his second period, and many oiher picturKS and drawings by that master. List of other Private Collections of Paintinr/s and WorJcs of Art, Bale, C. Sackville, Esq., 71, Cambridge Terrace. Bai'ing, Tiios., Esq., Upper Gro.-veuor Street — fine old masters of various schools : Raphael, Madon- na— il/a«tey«a. — Cuyp, A river-scone with boats. Barker, Alexander, Piccadilly — Italian Pictures : Holy Family, And. Verocchio (the most important of his works — Lor. da Credi, &c. Bromley, Rev. Davenport, 32, Gro.svenor Street. Caledon, Lord, 5, Carlton House Terrace. De Grey, Earl. Eardley, Sir Culling, Bart. Ellis, Wynn, Esq., 30, Cado- gan Place. Garvagh, Lady, 31,Portmau Square — Jlaji^had, Virgin and Child. Morrison, Chas., 67, Upper Harloy Street. Overstone, Lord, 2, Carlton Gardens, Dutch paintings, part of the Baron Ver- stolk's collection. Robarts, Mr.s., 26, Hill Street, Berkeley Square. Ward, Loid, Dudley House. Yarborough, Lord, Arling' ton Street, 26 IV. — HYDE PARK. IV.-PARKS AND PUBLIC GARDENS. HYDE PARK. A park of 388 acres, deservedly looked upon as one of the lungs of London, connecting the Green Park with Kensington Gardens, and thus carrying a con- tinuous tract of open ground, or park, from Whitehall, to Kensington. The whole Park is intersected ^^^th well-kept footpaths, and the carriage drives are spacious and well at- tended. The Park is accessible for private carriages, but hackney-coaches and cabs are excluded. The triple archway at Hyde-Pai'k-corner, combined with an iron screen, was erecfed in 1828 from the designs of Decimus Burton. It cost 17,069?. Is. 9^^, including 1000?. to Mr. Henning for the bas-reliefs from the Elgin marbles which surround it. The Park derives its name from the Hyde, an ancient manor of that name adjoining Knightsbridge, and, until the dissolution of religious houses in the reign of Henry VIH., the property of the abbots and monks of Westminster. For much of its present beauty it is indebted to William III., and Caroline, consort of George II. The iron railings have all been erected s^ince 1826. In this Park, in the London season, from May to August (between 11 and 1, an^l 54 and 7, may be seen all the wealth and fiishion and splendid equipages of the nobility and gentry of Great Britain. As many as 800 eqnestriaiis, includmg the Knot at the music, have been seen assembled at Hyde-Park in the height of the season. The bridle-road, running east and west (fiom Apsley House to Kensington Gar- dens) is called Rotten Row, a corruption, it is supposed, oi Route du Rrti — King's Drive. The first set of horsemen are valetudi- narians, along with leading counsel, hard-worked bai-risters, and solicitors of eminence, some bankers, city merchants, taking their "constitutional" before breakfast. From 12 to 2 the ride is sprinkled with the wives and daughters of our aristocracy, taking exercise with papas, brothers, or grooms ; IV. — HYDE PARK. 27 increased by a few ofiScers and M.P.'s seeking fresh air after a night spent in the House of Commons. Tlie sheet of water called the Serpentine was formed by Caroline, Queen of George II. The carriage-drive along the upper side is called "The Lady's Mile." The boats may be hired by the hour. Certain traces of the Ring, formed in the reign of Charles I. and long celebrated, may be recognised by the large trees somewhat circularly arranged in the centre of the Park. Beyond the Humane Society's Receiving-house (on the north bank of the Sei'pentine) and close to the bridge is the government store of gunpowder, including upwards of one million rounds of ball and blank ammunition kept ready for immediate use of tlie Garrison of Loudon. A review of troops in Hyde Park is a sight worth seeing ; they usually take place in June or July. Reviews or parades of Volunteers are more frequent. Observe. — Statue of Achilles, "inscribed by the women of England, to Arthur, Duke of Wellington, and his brave companions in arms," erected in Hyde Park, 18th of June, 1822, by command of his Majesty George IV. The statue was cast by Sir R. Westmacott, R.A., from cannon taken in the victories of Salamanca, Vittoria, Toulouse, and Waterloo, and the cost was defrayed by a subscription of 10,000^., raised among the ladies. The figure is copied' from one of the famous antiques on the Monte Cavallo, at Rome : so that the name Achilles is a misnomer. The Marble Arch, facing Great Cumberland-street (near where the Tyburn tree formei'ly stood) was moved from Buckingham Palace in 1850 and erected here in 1851. The original co.stwas 80,000/., and the cost of removal 11,000/. The equestrian statue of George IV., now in Trafaljrar-squai'e, was intended for the top of this arch. The sculpture on the S. front of arch by Baily; N. by Sir R. Westmacott. Tlie Crystal Palace, or Great Exhibition Building of 1851 (now re-erected and enlarged at Sydenham, in Kent), stood on the S. side of the Park, opposite Prince's Gate, and the large elm-trees covered in by the transepts are still alive, though far from flourishing. During the 24 weeks the Exhi- bition was open, it was visited by upwards of 6,000,000 persons, or about 250,000 weekly. The receipts exceeded 400,000/. On three consecutive shilling days the number of visitors exceeded 100,000, and the receipts 5000/. per day. It is proposed to erect ou the site a memoiial to Albert, Prince Consort. 28 lY. — HYDE PARK. IV. — ST. James's park. 29 ST. JAMES'S PARK. A park of 91 acres (shaped not unlike a boy's kite), originally appertaining to the Palace of St. James's; first formed and walled in by Heury VIII.; re- planted and beautified b}' Charles II.; and finally arranged by George IV., much as we now see it, in 1827-28-29. What I shall call the head of the kite is bordered by three of the principal public offices : the Horse Guai'ds in the centre, the Admiralty on its right, and the Treasury on its left. The tail of the kite is occupied by Buckingham Palace ; its north side by the Green Park, Stafford House, St. James's Palace, Marlborough House, Carlton-House-terrace, and Carlton Ride ; and its right or south side by Queen-square, and the Wellington Barracks for part of the Household Troops, erected in 1834-59. The gravelled space in front of the Horse Guards is called the Parade, and formed a part of the Tilt Yard of Whitehall : the north side is called the Mall, and the south the Birdcage-walk. Milton lived in a house in Petty France, with a garden reaching into the Birdcage-walk ; Nell Gwyn in Pall Mall, with a garden with a mound and ter- race at the end, overlooking the Mall ; and Lord Chancellor Jeft'eries, in the large brick house north of Storey's Gate, with a flight of stone steps into the Park. St. James's Park, with its broad gravel walks and winding sheet of water, was, till the time of Charles II., little more than a grass park, with a few trees irregularly planted, and a number of little ponds. Charles II. thi'ew the several ponds (Rosamond's Pond excepted) into one artificial canal, built a decoy for ducks, a small ringfence for deer, planted trees in even ranks, and introduced broad gravel walks in place of narrow and winding footpaths. Charles I., attended by Bishop Juxon and a regiment of foot (part before and part behind him), walked, Jan. 30th, 1648-49, through this Park from St. James's Palace to the scaffold at Whitehall. He is said on his way to have pointed out a tree near Spring Gardens, as planted by his brother Prince Henry. Here Cromwell took Wliitelocke aside and sounded the Memorialist on the subject of a King Oliver. Some of the trees in this Park, planted and watered by King Charles II. himself, were acorns from the royal oak at Boscobcl; none, however, are now to be seen. St. Evremont, a French Epicurean wit, was keeper of the ducks in St. James's Park in the reign of Charles II. Tlie gardens forming the inner euclosure, laid out by Nash the architect (temp. George IV.), yield in pictu- resqueuess to those of no capital in Europe. The walks across them ai'e enlivened bj- glimpses of numerous fine build- ings around. In 1857 a chain bridge, for foot passengers, CO IV.— ST. James's park and its vicinity. Kirer Thames. / ■' i\ Apslcy House Z^'' Hyde Park Corner. IV. — GREEN PARK. 31 was thrown across the water, between Queen-square and St. James's-street, and the lake bed was cleared out and raised, so that the greatest depth of water does not exceed 4 ft. Hence, the annual sacrifice of life, from a portion of the crowd who throng the ice in winter, falliug in, need no more occur. Observe. — On the Parade near the Horse Guards, the mortar cast at Seville, by order of Napoleon, employed by Soult at Cadiz, and left behind in the retreat of the French army after the battle of Salamanca. It was presented to the Prince Regent by the Spanish government, and mounted on a bronze dragon. The heaviest shell it carried weighed about 1081b., and its extreme range was 6220 yards. A shell from this piece of ordnance has been seen to range into Cadiz, when the whole of that splendid square, the Plaza de San Antonio, was crowded, and fall accurately in the centre of the square without injuring a single individual. On the opi'Osite side of the Parade is a Turkish gun taken from the French in Egypt. The Park was lighted with gas in 1822. The road connecting St. James's Park with Hyde Park, and skirting the garden wall of Buckingham Palace, now called Constitation Hill, was long known as " The King's Coach-way to Kensington." Near the upper end of this road Sir Robert Peel was thrown (1850) from his horse and killed. In this road Queen Victoria has been fired at by three idiots on three several occasions. GREEN PARK. An open area of 60 acres between Piccadilly and St. James's Park, Constitution-hill, and the houses of Arlington-street and St. James's-jilace. It was occa- sionally called Upper St. James's Park. Observe. — On the E. side of the Park, Skifford House, the residence of the Duke of Sutherland; Bridgewater House, the residence of the Earl of Ellesmere ; Spencer House, the residence of Earl Spencer; the brick house with five windows, built in 1747, by Flitcroft, for the celebrated Lady Hervey ; 22, St. James's- place (next a naiTow opening), distinguished by bow windows, residence of the late Poet Bogers ; Earl of Yarborough's, in Arlington-street, built by Kent, for Henry Pelham. The small gardens attached to the houses belong to the Crown, but are let on lease to the owners of the hovises. In this park, fronting the houses in Arlington-street, was fought the duel with swords, between Mr. Pulteney, afterwards Earl of Bath, and John, Lord Hervey, the Fanny of the poet Pope. REGENT'S PARK, a park of 472 acres, part of old Mary- 32 TV. — regent's park. — VICTORIA PARK. lebone Park, for a long time disparked, and familiarly known as Maiylebone Farm and Fields. Tlie present Park was laid out in 1812, from tlie plans of Mr. Jolin Nash, Architect, who designed all the terraces except Corn wall- terrace, which was designed by iMr. Decimus Burton. The Park derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., who intended building a residence here on the N.E. side. Part of Regent-street was actually designed as a communication from the Prince's residence to Carlton House, St. James's Palace, &c. The Crown Property comprises, besides the Park, the upper part of Portland-place, from No. 8, — the Park- crescent and square, Albany, Osnaburgh, and the adjoining cross streets, York and Cumberland-squares, Regent's-Park- basin, and Augustus-street, Park-villages E. and W., and the outer road. The Zoological Gardens occupy a large portion of the upper end of the Park. The Holme, a villa in the centre of the Park, so called, was erected by Mr. William Burton, architect, who covered with houses the Foundling Hospital and Skinner estates; and erected York and Cora- wall- terraces in this Park. Through the midst of the Park, on a line with Portland-place, and along the E. side of the Zoological Gardens, runs a fine broad avenue lined •with rows of trees, from which footpaths ramify across the sward in all directions, interspersed with ornamental planta- tions; laid out in 1833, and opened to the public in 1838. Around the Park runs an asrreeable drive nearly two miles looi,'. An inner drive, in the form of a circle, encloses the Botanic Gardens. Contiguous to the Inner Circle is St. John's Lodge, seat of Sir Fiancis Goldsmid, overlooking a beautiful sheet of water, close to which is the garden of the Toxophilite Society. St. Dunstans Villa, on the south- west side of the Park, was erected by Decimus Burton, for the late Mai'quis of Hertford (d. 1842). In its gardens are placed the identical clock and automaton strikers which once adorned St. Dunstan's Church in Fleet-street. When old St. Dunstan's was pulled down the giants were put up to auction, and the marquis became their purchaser. They still do duty in striking the hours and quarters. In the chapel of St. Kathciine's Hospital, on the E. side of the Park, is the tomb of John Hcdland, Duke of Exeter (d. 1447), and his two wives; and a pulpit of wood, the gift of Sir Julius Cfesar ; both removed, m 1827, from St. Kath- erine's at the Towei*. VICTORIA PARK, Bethnal Green, a park of 265 acres, planted and laid out in the reign of the Sovereign whose IV. — regent's park. 33 I To Great ittem Railway, 34 iV. — GREENWICH PARS, name it Ijears. The first cost of formation was covered by the purchase-money received from the Duke of Sutherland, to whom the remainder of the Crown lease of York House, St. James's, was sold iu 18il for 72,000Z. It is bounded on the S. by the Lea Union Canal ; on the W. by tlie Regent's Canal ; on the E. by Old Ford-lane, leading from Old Ford to Hackney Wick ; and on the N. bj^ an irregular line of fields. It serves as a lung for the N.K. part of London, and has already added to the health of the 550,000 inhabitants of Spitalfields and Bethnal-green. BATTERSEA. PARK. An open space of 185 acres, almost all below the level of high tuie, on the right bank of the Thames opposite Chelsea Hospital, converted between 1852- 58 from marshy fields, on one of which occurred the duel between the Duke of Wellington and Lord Winclielsea, into a public park at a cost of 312,890/., of which 246, 517^. was paid for the ground. Laid out with ornamental plantations, and rich flower-beds varied by a fine sheet of water, and intersected by roads and walks, it already presents great attractions. It is approached from Pimlico by an iron sus- pension bridge over tire Thames, of fanciful design, executed by Mr. Page, which cost 85,319/. and was completed 1858. 111,439?. has been laid out on tlie Chelsea embankment, bordering the left bank of the Thames from Pimlico to Vauxhall bridge. GREENWICH PARK, (5 miles from Charing Cross) of 174 acres, extending frorn the high ground of Blackheath down towards the Thames at Greenwich Hosi^ital, agreeably diver- sified with hill and dale, and from "One Tree Hill'' and another eminence on which the Royal Observatory is erected, commanding a noble view of London and the river Thames. The Observatory was established in the reign of Charles II. : Flamstead, Halley, and Bradley, were the tirst three Astro- nomers Royal. The older portion of the building was erected from the designs of Wren. The lower portion of the tower is the residence of Mr. Airy, the present Astronomer Royal. "Greenwich Time," known all over the world, is marked every day at 1 o'clock, by the dropping of a black ball about six feet in diameter, surmounting the easternmost turret of the old building, and acting iu instantaneous communication with the ball at Charing Cross, belonging to the Electric Telegraph Company. Strangers are not admitted to the Observatory, the Astronomical, Magnetical, and Meteorological observations conducted in the rooms requiring silence. The salary of the Astronomer Royal is 800?. a year, and the whole Observatory IV. — RICHMOND PARK. — KENSINGTON GARDENS. 35 is maintained at about 4000?. a year. A ti-ip down tlie river to Greenwicli, a visit to Greenwicli Hospital, a stroll in Green- wich Park, and a dinner afterwards at the Trafalgar Hotel or the Crown and Sceptre, will be found a delightful way of passing an afternoon, from 1, of a hue summer's day, till it is time to return home in the cool of tlie evening. This beautiful park — the Park of the Royal manor of Greenwich — was planted, much as we now see it, in the i-eign of Chai-les II. Le Notre, it is said, was the artist employed ; but his name does not occur in the accounts for the plantations made by Charles II. Greenwich may be reached by Rail, iius, or Steamer. RICHMOND PARK, 9 miles from London, and 1 from the Richmond Station of the London and South Western Railway: — the Park of the Royal manor of Richmond, owes much of its present beauty to King Charles I. and King George II. The principal enti-ance is close to the Star and Garter Hotel. Enter by this gate, keep to the right for about a mile along the terrace and past Pembroke Lodge, the residence of Lord John Russell. The view begins a few yards within the gate, is stopped by the enclosure of Pem- broke Lodge, but soon reappears. The view overlooking the Thames, is not to be suri^assed. An afternoon at Richmond and Twickenham, and a dinner afterwards at the Star and Garter, will make a capital pendant to a like entertainment at Greenwich. KENSINGTON GARDENS. Pleasure-grounds attached to Kinstn(jton Palace (p. 8), and open to the public, but not to be traversed by carriages. The stranger in London should, during the London season, m;ike a point of visiting these Gardens when the band plays. The Gardens are then filled with gaily-dressed promenaders, and the German will be reminded of the scene in the Prater. Evex'y informa- tion about the period when a military l>and plays may be obt uned of any of the lodge-keepers at Hyde Park or Ken- sington Gardens. Kensington Gardens were laid out in the reign of William III., by London and Wise, and originally consisted of only 26 acres; Queen Anne added 30 under Bridgeman's superintendence, and Caroline (Queen of George II.) 300 under the care of Kent. The Serpentine was formed 1730-83 ; and the bridge over it, separating the Gardens from Hyde Park, was designed by Kennie, and erected 1826. The beautiful wrought-iron gates facing Rotten Row, were the entrance gates to the S. transept of the Crystal Palace of 1851, and cast at Colebrook Dale. d2 36 IV.— KEW. KEW BOTANICAL GARDENS, 5 miles from Hyde Park Corner, on the road to Richmond. Open daily after 1 p.m., Sundays 2 p.m. The Gardens contniuing in the open air or under glass the plants, flowers, and vegetable curiosities of all countries, have been laid out under the direction of Sir W. J. Hooker, the Botanist. The best way of reaching Kew is by railway trains from Waterloo, S.W. lnop line, or by one of the White Richmond or red-coloured Kew Bridge omni- buses that leave Piccadilly every \ hour — fare Is. ; and the best account of the Gardens is Sir W. Hooker's own little Handbook, to be purchased at the Gardens, price Qd. The entrance is on Kew Green, by very handsome gates, designed by Decimus Burton. Visitors are obliged to leave baskets and parcels with tlie porter at the gate. The Palm House, is 3»32 feet long, 100 feet wide, 64 feet high, and cost neaidy 30,000^. Some of the Palms have already reached the highest span of the roof. Among the hotliouses — those devoted to Cactuses are um'ivalled for the rarity and variety of their contents. Hero, too, the Victoria Regia may be seen. The Winter Garden, or Great Conservatory, is 583 feet hiwi, covers If acre, and is twice the size of the Palm House. It forms an era in Horticulture ; near it a lake of 5 acres is formed. Improvements are made every year, and the Gardens are receiving yearly extensions. The Pinetum has been augmented, Chincona plants have been reared in large quantities for India, to furnish quinine, whicti lias hitiierto been brouLdit from Peru and cost the East India Govern- ment 40,000/. a year ! The visitors to the Gardens in 1800 amounted to 425,314, chiefly for reci'eation and fresh air, but many botanical students take lodgings in Kew to pro- secute their studies. The Museum nf Economic Botany, formed by Sir W. Hooker, is filled with vegetable products, useful in the arts and manufactures, mo.st instructive and interesting. The Herbaria or dried plants from all quarters of the world, are more extensive than any yet brought together; they include those of the old East India Company. The Arboretum and Pleasure Grounds are beautifully kept, and most creditable to the present Directoi-. In short, London and its neigh- bourhood aff'ords no more pleasing sight. The Gardens are open daily. {Sec Hints and Suggestions, p. 1.) The .salary of the Director is 800/. a year. ft}mummiv.i;^ ^''MT^^^ -Li., '^l i 1 1 I i -n-T-r^i-T-r ' ■ ■ i \ ^ I IlAN of the new houses of PAKLIAimNT. V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 37 V.-HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. THE HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, or The New Palace AT Westminster, on the left bank of the Thames, between the river and Westminster Abbey. This is one of the most magnificent buildings ever erected contin\iously in Europe— probably the largest Gothic edifice in the world. It occupies the site of the old Royal Palace at Westminster, burnt down Oct. 16th, 1834, and covers an area of nearly 8 acres. It lias 100 staircases, 1100 apartments, and more tlian 2 miles of corri- doi-s ! Tlie architect was Sir Charles Barry, and the first stone was laid April 27th, 1840. In its style and character the building reminds us of those magnificent civic palaces, the town-halls of the Low Couuti-ies, — at Ypres, Ghent, Louvain, and Brussels — and a similarity in its destination i-enders the adoption of that style more a])propriate than any form of classic architecture. Tlie stone employed for the external masonry is a magnesian limestone from Anston in York- shire, selected with great care from the building stones of England by commissioners appointed in 1839 for that purpose. The River Teirace is of Aberdeen granite. There is very little wood about the building; all the main beams and joists are of iron ; and the Houses of Parliament, it is said, can never be burnt down again. The E., or the River Front, may be considered the principal. This magni- ficent fa9ade, 900 feet in length, is divided into five principal compartments, panelled with tracery, and decorated with rows of statues and .shields of arms of the Kings and Queens of England, from the Conquest to the present time. The W. or Laud Front is as yet in an imperfect state, but will, it is believed, surpass in beauty and picturesqueness any of the others, though, from the nature of the ground, it will not be in an imiuterrupted lino. A new fayade is to replace the Law Courts, but is not yet commenced. The Royal or Victoria Towci; at the S.-W. angle, one of the most stupendous works of the kind in the world, contains the Royal Entrance, is 75 feet square, and rises to the height of 340 feet, or 64 feet less than the height of the cro.ss of St. Paul's. The entrance archway is 65 feet in height, and the roof is a rich and beautifully worked groined stone vaidt, while the interior is decorated with the statues of the patron saints of England, Scotland, and Ireland, and with a statue of her present Majesty, supported on either side 38 V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. by figures emblematical of Justice and Mercy. This stately tower (supplying what Wren considered Westminster was so much in need of) was finished by slow degrees in 1857, the architect deeming it of importance that the works should not i^roceed, for fear of settlements, at a greater rate than 30 feet a-year. The Central. Spire, 60 feet in diameter, and 300 feet high, rises above the Grand Central Octagonal Hall. Its exquisitely groined stone vavdt is supported with- out a pillar. The Cloch Toioer (the " BefiFroi " of London) abutting on Westminster Bridge, 40 feet square, and sur- mounted above the clock with a decorated roof, rises to the height of about 320 feet. Various other subordinate towers, by their picturesque forms and positions, add mate- rially to the effect of the whole building. The Palace Clock in the Clock Tower, constructed under the direction and approval of Mr. Airj', the Astronomer Royal, is an eight-daj' clock, striking the hours and chiming the quarters upon eight bells, and showing the time upon fovir dials about 30 feet in diameter. The diameter of the dial at St. Paul's is only 18 feet. The Great Bell (Stephen) was cast 1858 ; it weighs more than 8 tons, but having been cracked like its predecessor. Big Ben. is not used. The Westminster Bridge end of the Palace contains the apartments of the Speaker and the Serjeant-at-arms, and the Vauxhall Bridge end the apartments of the Usher of the Black Rod and the Lords' libratian. Above these a long range of rooms has been appropriated to Committees of either Hoiise. The statues in and abovxt the building exceed in nxunber 450, and are by the late John Thomas. The principal public Entrances are through Westminster Hall, and Old Palace Yard, : — both lead into the Central Octagon Hall, whence the right hand passage will take you to the Lords, and the left to the Commons. This magni- ficent Hall, 80 feet high, is covered with a groined stone roof, containing upwards of 250 elaborately carved bosses. West- minster Hall, together with the ancient cloisters (now aug- mented by an upper story and stair — a gem of florid Gothic architecture) and crypt of St. SlcpJicn's Chapel (the only remains of the ancient Palace), have been skilfully incorpora- ted into the new building. Westminster Hallhas been some- what altered in detail internally, to make it accord with the rest of tlie building. The architect lias plaimcd tliat the walls, below the windows, should be decorated with a series of historical paintings, and tliat there should be two tiers of pedestals, to be occupied by figures of those eminent English- men to whom Parliament may decree the honour of a statue. V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. 39 The conception is grand, and appropriate to the building 'in which so many Englishmen have been distinguished. For Westminster Hall, see section xvi. The Royal Entrance is under the Victoria Tower, and leads to the Nui-man Porch, so called from the frescoes illustrative of the Norman history of this country and the figures of the Norman Kings, with which it is to be decorated. On tlie right hand is the Rohing Room, facing the river, decorated with frescoes by Dyce, K.A., of the Legend of King Arthur. After the cei-emony of robing, which takes place in this room, her Majesty passes through a magni- ficent chamber 110 feet in length, 45 in width, and 45 feet high, called the Victoria Oulhry, decorated with frescoes of events fi'om the history of England, with stained glass windows and a ceiling rich in gilding and heraldiy. On one side is the meeting of Wellington and Blucher after the Battle of Water- loo at la Belle Alliance (at which place they did not meet). The death of Nelson occupies the opposite wall, — both are by Maclise, R.A., and executed in the water-glass fresco process. Passing thence, her Majesty enters the Prince's Chamber, or Peers' Robinr/ Room, decorated with equal splendour, lined with wood carvings and portraits of the Tudor and Stuart sovereigns, and containing a noble marble group by Gibson, of the Queen supported by Justice and Mercy, thence into The House of Peers, 97 feet long, 45 wide, and 45 high, a noble room, first opened April 15th, 1847, presenting a coup d'ceit of the utmost magnificence, no expense having been spared to make it one of the richest chambers in the world. The spectator is hardly aware, however, of the lavish rich- ness of its fittings from the masterly way in which all are harmoniously blended, each detail, however beautiful and intricate in itself, bearing only its due part in the general effect. Observe. — The Throne, on which her Majesty sits when she attends the House, with the chair for the Prince of Wales ; the Woolsack, in the centre of the House, on which the Lord Chancellor sits ; the Eeporters' Gallery (facing the Throne) ; the Strangers' Gallei'y (immediately above) ; the Frescoes (tlie first, on a large scale, executed in this country), in the six compartments, three at either end, viz.. The Bap- tism of Ethelbert, by Dyce, R.A. (over the Throne) ; Edward in. conferring the Order of the Garter on the Black Prince, and Henry, Prince of Wales, conmiitted to prison for as^ault- ing Judge Gascoigne, both by Cope, R.A.; tlio Sfiii-it of Religion, by Horsley, A.R.A., in the centre compartment, over the Strangers' Gallery ; and the Spirit of Chivalry, and the Spirit of Law, by Maclise, R.A. The 12 figure windows 40 V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT. are filled with stained glass, and are lighted at night from the outside. Between the windows, and at either end of the house, are 18 niches, for statues of the Magna Charta barons, carved bj' Thomas. Immediately beneath the windows runs a light and elegant gallery of brass work, filled in compartments with coloured mastic, in imitation of enamel. On the cornice beneath the gallery are the arms of the Sove- reigns and Chancellors of England, from Edward III. to tho present time. A Lord Chamherlain' s order or Pen-ess ticlet for a lady to the Galleries or Area of the House of Lords, when her Majesty opens, prorogues, or dissolves Parliament, is highly prized. The opening of Parliament is generally in February, the prorogation generally in July. On these occasions the gallery, which directly fronts the throne, is set apart for ladies. Failing to obtain this, a seat in the " Eoyal Gallery," the splendid hall through which the procession twice passes, affords an admirable view of the Queen and her great officers. Gentlemen as well as ladies are admitted liere, but sit in separate places. It is itot etiquette to ex- amine the Sovereign through a loir/nette. To obtain a good seat, you should be in the House of Lords by half past 12. for the carriages of strangers ai'c not suffered to pass the barriers later than one, and it is a crowded and dirty struggle to get to the House after that hour. Tlie arrival of her Majesty is announced within the House by the booming of the cannon. Her entrance is preceded by the Heralds in their rich dresses, and by some of the chief officers of state in their robes. All the peers are in their robts. The Speech is presented to her Mnjesty by the Lord Chancellor kneeling, and is read by her Majest}-; the Mistress of the Robes and one of the ladies of the bedchamber standing by her side on the dais. The return to Buckingham Palace is by 3 at the latest. The address to her Majesty in both houses is moved at 5 the same evening ; and tho debate, therefore, is always looked to with great interest. The old custom of examining the cellars underneath the House of Lords, about two hours before her Majesty's arrival, .still continues to be observed. The custom haH its origin in the infamous Gunpowder plot of 1605. The House of Commons, 62 feet long by 4.5 feet broad, and 45 feet high, is more simi)le in character than the House of Peers : — the ceiling is, however, of nearly equal beauty. The windows are filled with stained glass, of a simple character; the walls arc lined with oak I'ichly carved, and, supported on carved shafts and brackets, is a gallciy extending along them, on cither side. At tho N. end is the chair for the V. — HOUSES OF TARIJAMENT. 41 Speaker, over which is a gallery for visitors, aud for the reporters of the debates; while the S. end is occn pied by- deep galleries for the Meirsbei-s of the House, aud for tlie public. The Entrance for the Members is either by the public approaches, or a private door aud staircase from the Star Chamber Court (one of the twelve Courts lightiug the iute- rior), so called from occupyiug the site of that once dreaded ti'ibunal. England aud Wales return 498 members, Ireland 105, aud Scotland 53, making in all 656 members composing the House of Commons. St. Stcjyiicn's Bull, leading direct from Westminster Hall fo the Great Central Hall, is 95 feet long by 30 wide, and to the apex of the stone groining 56 feet high. It derives its name from occupying the same space as St. Stephen's Chapel of the ancient Palace, and is lined by 12 "statues of Parlia- mentary statesmen who rose to eminence by the eloquence and abilities they displayed in the House of Commons." Theyare : Hampden, by Bell; Falkland, by Foley ; Clarendon, by Marshall; Seldcu, by Bell; Sir Robert Walpole, Lords Somers and Mansfield, Lord Chatham, Charles Fox; William Pitt, by McDou-al; Burke, by Theid ; and Grattan. The crypt of St Stephen's, mutilated more by abuse than by the fii'e, still exists beneath, and i.s the only fragment remaining of the ancient Palace of Westminster. This interesting example of English architectiu'e of the 13th century has undergone a careful restoration. The Cloister Court, sun-ounded by a richly groined and traceiied cloi^^ter of 2 stories, of which the upper story is a creation of Sir Charles Barry, is one of the tint st features in the building. It i.s for the most part a re.'^toration, is 49 feet 6 inches from E. to W., and 63 feet from N. to S. It is open to members of the house, but not to the public. The Upper Waiting Hall, or Poets'' Hall, will contain 8 frescoes from 8 British poets — viz., Chaucer, Spenser, Shaks- peare, Milton, Dryden, Pope, Scott, and Byron. Four have been completed. The Chaucer, by C. W. Cope, R.A., repre- senting a scene froniGriselda; the Shakspeare.by/. 7J. Uerhert, i?./L, Learandhis Daughter; tlie Milton, by/. C. Horsley Satan starting at the touch of Ithuriel's Spear ; and the Dryden, by John Tenniel, St. Cecilia. In the corridors leading to the two H'luses are — The last sleep of Argyle before his Execu- tion, The Bvirial of Charles I., The Execution of Montrose. Capture of Alice Lisle, Departure of the Pilgrim Fathers, all by E. N. Ward; "Charles I. erecting his vStandard at Kottingham," by F. B. PicJcersrjill, A.R.A.; and "Speaker 42 V. — HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT, Lenthall asserting the Privilege of the Commons, when Charles I. attempted to seize the five membei's," by Cross, Admission to Inspect the House of Lords — free tickets for Saturdays to be obtained at the Chamberlain's Office in the court next the Victoria Tower. Admission to tJie Strangers' Gallery to hear the dthatcs — a peer's oi'der. Up to 4 p.m., during the hearing of appeal cases, the House is open to the public. Admission to the Commons — a member's order, ■which any member can give. If you know an M.P., go to the lobby with the member's name written on your card ; at the door of the House you will see a good- tempered old gentleman, with a powdered head, sitting in a watch-box. If you civilly ask him, he will send your card into the House, and thus fetch out the member you have named. Take care to keep ou one side, out of the thoroughfare to the door or you will be warned off by a policeman, Take your seat before 5. Admission to the Strangers' Gallery is secured to those holding a member's ticket in the order of their arrival; doors are opened at 4, but many persons arrive on the spot some hours before, on occasions of debates of any importance. Ou the night of an interesting debate the House seldom rises before 2 o'clock in the morning. Strangers and reporters used to be excluded during divisions, but this practice was terminated in 1853, except in regard to strangers occupying certain privileged seats. Ladies have been excluded from the intei'ior of the House since 1738. There is, however, a small gallery (above that of the Reporters), behind whose grating the ladies are invi- sible, and enjoy biit an imperfect view of the House. The Speaker takes the chair at 5 p.m., when prayers are read, and business commences. The House of Commons emjities at 7 p.m., and refills about 9 p.m. The best nights are Mon- days and Fridays. On Wednesdays the House sits only from noon to 6 p.m. Unless forty members are present there is no House. The entire cost of erecting the Houses of Parliament, down to 1858, was 1,768,979^., as far as the architect is concerned ; but including other charges is not less than two millions/ Note. — For a detailed and graphic account of the usual proceedings in tlie House of Commons, refer to an article in the Quarterly Review for June, 1854. VI — THE THAMES. 43 VI.-THE THAMES AND ITS BRIDGES; THAMES TUNNEL, POOL AND PORT OF LONDON. The Thames, on whose banks London is situated, is tlie noblest commei'cial river in the world; above, below, and at London, it is, however, little more than a common sewer, oscil- lating with the tide ; about Richmond and Twickenham, it is a sweet flowing stream ; still higher up, about Pangbourue (where you may catch some pleasing glimpses of it from the Great Western Railway), it is pastoral and pretty; and at the Nore and Sheerness, where the Medway joins it, it is an estuary where the British navy may sail, or ride safely at anchor. The Thames rises in Gloucestershire, and passing Oxford, Reading, Windsor, Hampton Court, Twickenham, Richmond, Fulham, Chelsea, London, and Greenwich, falls into the English Channel at a distance of 60 miles from London. At very high tides, and after long easterly winds, the water at London Bridge is very often brackish. Spenser calls it " The silver-streaming Thames." Deuham has sung its praises in some noble couplets — " O could I flow like thee, and make tliy stream My great example, as it is my theme ! Tliiiugh deep yet clear, though gentle yet not dull. Strong without rage, without o'erflowing full." And Pope described its banks with the accuracy of a Dutch painter in his ludicrous imitation of Spenser's manner. The bridges (three of which alone are toll free) were built or opened to the public in the following order : — old London Bridge, 1209 ; Westminster Bridge, 1750 ; Blackfriars Bridge, 1709 ; Vauxliall Bridge, 1816 ; Waterloo Bridge, 1817; Southwark Bi'idge, 1819; new Loudon Bridge, 1831; and. Hungerford Bridge, 1845. The Thames Tunnel was opened, 1813. The first steamboat seen on the Thames was in 1816. The Loudon visitor should make a point of descending the Tliames by a steamboat fi-om Chelsea to Blackwall, a voyage of Hi hour. The places, principally on the left or Middlesex bank, are detailed in the otder in which they present them- selves in pp. 294 to 298. The Port of London, legally so called, extends 6^ miles below London Bridge to a point called Bugsby's Hole, over against Blackwall ; but the Port itself does not reach beyond Lime- house. Nearly 50,000 vessels enter and leave the Thames in 12 months, or on an average 120 daily. The Customs 44 VI. — LONDON BRIDGE. duties paid at this Port amount to nearly 12 millions ster- ling per nnnum, or nearly one-half of the duties paid in the United Kiugdom. Tli'i Pool is that part of the Thames between London Bridge and Cuckold's Point, where colliers and otlier vessels lie at anchor. It is said that no vessel of more than 300 tons is seen navigating above London Bridge. For some account of the Docks, see post, Commer- cial Buildings, &c., p. 61. Every master of a collier is required, upon reaching Gravesend, to notify the arrival of his vessel to the officer upon the spot ; and theu he receives a direction to pi'oceed to one of the stations appointed for the anchorage of colliers. There are seven of these stations on different Reaches of the rivei". The ships are then directed to proceed in turn to the Pool, where about 250 are provided with stations in tiers, at which they remain for a limited time to unload. " This morning was fair and bright, and we had a passage tliithcr [from London to Gravesend], I think as pleasant as can be conceived, for talte it with all its advantages, particnlarly the nnmber of fine ships yon are always sure of seeing by tlie way, there is notliing to equal it in all the rivers in the world. The yards of Deptford and Woolwich are noble sights. . . . AVc saw likewise several Indiamen just returned from their voyage. . . . The colliers likewise, which are very numerous and even assemble in fleets, are ships of great bulk ; and if we descend to those used in the American, African, and European trades, and pass through those which visit our own coasts, to tlie small craft that lie between Chatham and the Tower, the whole forms a most pleasing object to the eye, as well as highly warming to the heart of an English- man, who has any degree of love for his country, or can recognise any effect of the patriot in his constitution." — Fielding, A Voyage to Lisbon, LONDON BRIDGE, 928 feet long, of five semi-elliptical arches, built from the designs of John Rennie, a native of Scot- land, and of liis sons, John and George. The first stone was laid June 15th, 1825, and the bridge publicly opened by William IV., August 1st, 1831. It is built of granite, and is said to have cost, including the new approaches, near two millions of money. The centre arch is 152 feet span, with a rise above high-water mark of 29 feet 6 inches; the two arches next the centre are 110 feet in span, with a rise of 27 feet 6 inches; and the two abutment arches arc 130 feet span, with a rise of 24 feet 6 inches. The jiiers of the centre arch have sunk about six inches, owing, it is said by Telford and Walker, to over-piling. The lamp-posts are made from ■ cannon taken in the Peninsular War. It is the last bridge over the Thames, or the one nearest to the sea, and is 54 feet wide, or 11 feet more than Waterloo. It has been ascertained that the number of carriages of all VI. — HUNGERFORD BRIDGK. 45 descriptions, and equestrians, who daily pass along London Bridge in the course of twenty-four hours exceeds 20,000 ; and that the number of pedestrians who pass across the bridt^H daily during the same space of time, is not fewer than 107,000. By police arrangement, vehicles of slow traffic ti-avel at the sides, the quick in the centre. Tliis was commenced in 1S51. The present low-water mark at London Bridge is 18 feet 11 inches below the Trinity House datum. Previous to 1832, when the old bridge was removed, it was only 15 ft-et 4 inches. In severe winters the starlings of the old bridge arresting the floating ice, at times caused the river to be frozen ovei*. This is not likely to occur again since the impe- diments of the old bridge have been removed. SOUTH WARK BRIDGE, 708 feet long, of three cast-iron arches, resting ou stone piers, designed by John Rennie. and erected by a public company, at an expense of about 800,000?. The first stone was laid April 23rd, 1815 ; and the bridge publicly opened April, 1819. Tiie span of the centre arch is 402 feet (38 feet wider than the height of the Monument, and the largest span of any arch in tlie world until tlie tubular bridges were made.) Tlie entire weight of iron employed in tlie bridge is about 57S0 tons. There is a penny toll. The Company are willing to sell their tolls for 30U,000Z. The cost of proper approaches would require (at tlie least) 150,000?. more. It is very ill placed. ELACKFRIARS BRIDGE. The old bridge of 4 arches built 17t)0-69 by Robert Mylue, having failed in its piers and also in auconimodating the increasing multitudes who pass over it, is about to be replaced by a new one. This bridge affords a stately and imposing view of St. Paul's Cathedral and Bow Church steeple, surmounted by its dragon. HUNGERFORD BRIDGE, called also Charixg-cross Bridge, crosses the Thames from the Charing Cross Railway Station to Belvedere Road, Lambeth, and was built in 1863 - by the South Eastern Railway Company in oi'der to carry their line across the Thames to a station in the heart of Western London. It replaces Hungerford Suspension Bridge, built 1846, for foot passengers only, which has been sold for 85,000?. and removed to Clifton. The new Railway Bridge, which also admits foot passengers in the centre, is of 46 VI. — WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. iron lattice resting on 6 or 7 cylinder and two brick piers, forming 8 spans 70 feet wide. Its breach is sufficient for 4 lines of rails, and a footway 14 feet wide. Mr. Hawkshaw is the Knsineer. The toll charged is a halfpenny each person each waj'. WATERLOO BRIDGE, perhaps the noblest bridge in the ■world, was built by a public company pursuant to an act passed in 1809. The first stone was laid 1811, and the bridge opened on the second anniversary of the battle of Waterloo, June 18th, 1817. It is said to have cost above a million. The engineer was John Rennie, son of a farmer at Phantassie, in East Lothian — the engineer of many of our celebrated docks and of the breakwater at Plymouth. " Cannva, when lie was asked during liis visit to England wliat struck him most forcibly, is said to have replied — that the trumpery Chinese Bridge, then in St. James's Park, should lie the production of the Govern- ment, whilst that of Waterloo was the work of a Pi'ivate Company." — Quarterly Review, No. 112, p. 309. M. Dupin calls it " a colossal monument worthy of Se,-ostris and the Caesars." It consists of nine elliptical arches of 120 feet span, and 35 feet high, supported on piers 20 feet wide at the sjiringing of the arches. Tlie bridge is 1380 feet long, 43 feet wide, the approach from the Strand 310 feet, and the causeway on the Surrey side, as far as supported by the land- arches, 766 feet, thus raising it to a level with the Strand, and uniform throughout. This bridge affords a noble view of Somerset-house, the chef-d'oeuvre of Sir William Chambers. The toll charged is a halfpenny each person each w^ay, and the receipts from foot-passengers in ahalf-year were 4676?. 17s.llrf., received from 2,244,910 persons. The proprietors offer to sell the tolls for 700,000^, WESTMINSTER BRIDGE. The second stone bridge over the Thames, built by Labelye, a Swiss, 1739-1750. It was built on caissons of timber, floated to the spot destined for the piers, and then sunk. It was surmounted by a lofty parapet, which M. Grosley, a French traveller, gravely asserted was placed there in order to prevent the English propensity to suicide ; but the real intention of Labelye was to secure a sufficient weight of masonry to keep his caissons to their proper level. The scour caused in tlie river bed by the removal of Old London Bridge effectually undermined several of the piers of Westminster, whose foundations lay only 6 feet beneath low water. In 1846 and following years, extensive and expensive repairs, and attempts to prop it up VI.^THE THAMES TUNNEL. 47 were made ; but these bavins proved ineffectual, an entirely new bridge from designs of Mr. Pa^e, engineer to the Board of Works, was begun in 1856 and finished 1862. The Neiv Bridge is double the width of the old bridge, measuring 85 feet, and consists of seven arches of iron (that in the centre I'iO feet span) resting on stoue piers, whose foundations descend 30 feet below low water. It is 1160 feet long, and the centre arch rises 22 feet above high water. The rise in the centre is only 5 feet 4 in. The piers rest on bearing piles of elm, driven 20 feet into the London clay, and are cased with iron piles closely united, forming a sort of permanent coffer-dam. Upon these is laid a stratum of concrete, forming a foundation for the blocks of Cornish granite used in the stone work. The esti- mated cost is 216,000/. The arches are arranged in one continuous curve from side to side of the river, an agreeable novelty. It is a very elegant structure, its roadway wider than any other bridge in the world, commanding a most pleasant view of the Houses of Parliament. LAMBETH BRIDGE, from Lambeth Church to Horse- ferry Road. An iron wire suspension bridge of 3 spans each of 280 feet, supporting an iron platform, hung from rigid lattice bars restmg on double cylinder piers. Peter Barlow, Engineer, 1862. Estimated cost 40,000/. VAUXHALL BRIDGE. An iron bridge, of nine equal arches, over the Thames between Yauxhall and Millbank, built from the designs of James Walker, 1811-1816. It is the property of a private company, toll l,d., id. each horse. It is 798 feet long, and 36 feet wide, and is built on caissons. THE THAMES TUNNEL is two miles below London Bridge, and is easily reached by the numerous steam-boats plying on the Thames. It extends beneath the bed of the river Thames, connecting Wapping, on the left bank, with Rother- hithe, or Redriff, on the right. This great work — a monument of the skill, energy, and enterpi'ise of Sir Isambard K. Brunei (d. 1849), by whom it was planned, carried out through great difficulties, and finally completed — was commenced March 2nd, 1825, closed for seven years by an inundation which filled the whole tunnel with water, Aug. 12th, 1828, recommenced Jan. 1835 (thousands of sacks of clay having been thrown in the interval into the river-bed above it), and opened to the public, i\Iarch 25th, 1843. The idea of the shield, upon which Brunei's plan of tunnelling was founded, was suggested to him by tho operations of the 48 VII. — THE TREASURY. teredo, a testaceous worm, covered with a cylindrical shell, which eats its way through the hai'dest wood at the bottom of the sea. Brunei's shield consisted of 12 separate timber frames, each of 3 stages or 30 cells in all. In these cells the miners worked, protected by the shield above and in front, and backed by tbe bricklayers behind, wlio built up as fast as the miners advanced. Government lent 247,000?., in Exchequer Bills, to advance the works, and the total cost is 46'^,000/. Tiie j'carly amount uf tolls and receipts is under 6000/., a sura barely sufficient to cover the necessary expen- diture, including that arising from the constant influx of land springs. It belongs to the Thames Tunnel Companj'. It consists of two arched passages, 1200 feet long, 14 feet wide, 16| feet high, separated by a wall of brick 4 feet thick, with 64 arched openings in it. The crown of the arch is 16 feet below the bottom of the river. The descent and ascent are by stairs winding round cylindrical shafts 38 feet wide 22 feet deep, and the toll is one penny each passenger. It has not been rendered accessible for vehicles of any sort, owing to the great cost of completmg the approaches. VII.-GOVERNMENT OFFICES. THE TREASURY, Whitehall. A large range of building, between the Horse Guards and Parliament-street, so called from its being the office of the Lord High Treasurer; an office of great importance, first put into commission in 1612, on Lord Salisbuiy's death, and so continued with very few exceptions till the present time. The prime minister of the country is always Fn-st Lord of the Treasury, and enjoys a salary of 5000?. a year, the same as the Chancellor of the Exchequer, but smaller in amount tlian the salaries of the Lord Chancellor and of the Lord Chief Justice. He has also an official residence in Downiugstreet. All the great money transactions of tlie nation are conducted here. The Lord High Treasurer used formerly to carry a white staff, as the mark of his office. The royal throne still remains at the head of the Treasury table. The present fit^'cule towai'd the street was built (1846-47), by Sir Charles Bniry, to replace a heavy front, the work of Sir John Soane. The core of the building is of an earlier date, ranging from Ripley's time, in the reign of George I., to the times of Kent and Soane. The building called " the Treasury" includes theBoai'dof Trade, the Homo, and Privy Council offices. VII. — NEW PUBLIC OFFICES. 49 PRIVY COUNCIL OFFICE, Downing Street, White- hall, is part of the S. end of the range of Treasury build- ings. Here the Judicial Committee of the Privy Council meets to hear appeals, &c. Here are kept the minutes of the Privy Councils of the Crown, commencing in 1540. A minute of the reign of James II. contains the original depositions attesting the birth of tlie Prince of Wales, afterwards known as tlio Old Pretender. THE HOME OFFICE, in which the business of the Secretary of State for the Home Department {i.e. Great Britain and Ireland) is conducted, is at Whitehall, in part of the Treasury buildings. The salary of the Secretary is 5000/. a year, and his duty is to see that the laws of the country are observed at home. His office is one of great importance, and is always a Cabinet appointment. FOREIGN OFFICE, removed to Whitehall Gardens while the Public Offices are being rebuilt. The c lief officer is a Cabinet Minister, and is called the ' Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs." His salary is 5000/. a year. The Cabinet Councils of her Majesty's Ministers are held generally at this office, or at the residence of the Chancellor of the Exchequer, also in Downing Street. Passports are here issued by the Foreign Secretary to Bri- tish subjects recommended by a banker, at a charge of 2s. (See Handbook for Travellers on the Continent.) THE COLONIAL OFFICE, 14, Downing Street, is the Government office for conducting the business between Great Britain and her 44 colonies. The head of the office is callc'l the '' Secretary for the Colonics," and is always a Cabinet Minister. His salary is 5000/. In a small waiting- room un the right hand as you enter, the Duke of Wellington, then Sir Arthur Wellesley, and Lord Nelson, both waiting to see the Secretary of State, met, the only time in their lives. The duke knew Nelson from his pictures. Lord Nelson did not know the duke, but was so struck with his conversa- tion that he stept out of the room to inquire who he was. THE INDIA BOARD, removed from the East India House, Leadeuhall-strect, 1860, occupies, temporarily, a part of the Westminster Hotel, Victoria-street, for which a rent of 5000/. per annum is paid. NEW PUBLIC OFFICES. A grand edifice of vast ex- tent, of Italian architecture, from the designs of G. G. Scott, 50 VII. — EXCHEQUER— CUSTOM HOUSE. is being built on the site of Downing-street, extending thence to St. James's-park and Parliament-street, to contain — the Foreign. Colonial, the East India Board, and other Offices: 40,000^. was grimted by Parliament for the site alone, and the estimate for the biiildiug amounts to 200,000?. THE EXCHEQUER, or, Office of the Chancellor OF THE Exchequer. The principal office for fixing or receiving taxes is in Dowuuig-street, the last house on the right-hand side. The word Exchequer is derived from a four- cornered board, about 10 feetlongandSfect broad, fitted in the manner of a table for men to sit about ; on every side whereof was a standing ledge or border, 4 fingers broad. Uj)on this board was laid a cloth, parti-coloured, which the French call Chequy, and round this board the old Court of Exchecpierwas held. The Chancellor was one of the judges of the Court, and in ancient times he sat as such, togetlier with the Lord Treasurer and the Barons. His duties since 4th William IV., c. 15, are entirely ministerial; the annual nomination of sheriflTs being the only occasion on which the Chancellor takes his seat at the Court of Exchequer in Westminster Hall. The salary of the Chancellor is 5000/'. a year, with a house in Downing-street and a seat in the Cabinet. The income of Great Britain and Ireland, paid into the Exchequer, has been for some years upwards of 70 millions sterling. SECRETARY OF STATE FOR WAR, established during the war with Russia, 1854-56, when tlie offices of Secretary at War and Master-General of the Ordnance were united (with other powers). The affliirs of the Army are managed at the \A'ar Office, Horse Guards, and tlie old Ordnance Office, 86, Pall Mall, built for the Duke of Cumberland (d. 1767), brother of George III., to which Buckingham House (to the east) is added. THE CUSTOM HOUSE is in Lower Thames-street, facing the river. It was erected 1814-17 from the designs of David Laing, but in consequence of some defects in the piling, the original centre gave way, and the present front, to the Thames, erected by Sir Robert Smirke. Neaidy one- half of the customs of the United Kingdom are collected in the Port of London, and about one-half of the persons in the Civil Service of the coinitry are cmploj'ed in duties connected witli the collection. In London alone, u])wards of 2230 persons are employed in and attaclied to the London Custom Hou^'o, and maintained at an annual expense of about 275,000?. ; Liveri)Ool, after London, is the next gi-eat port whei'e the largest amount of customs is collected. The VII. — WOODS, FORESTS. — POST-OFFICE. 51 average revenue collected bj^ the Customs in the last nine years is about 20 millions, and the duties are conducted by commissioners appointed by the Crown. Seizures are stored in the Queen's warehouse, and wlien the warehouse is full there is a public sale. These sales (some four a year) produce about 500(1/. They are principally attended by Jews and brokers. The sales take place in Mark Lane, while the goods are on view at a different place. Observe. — The " Long Room," 190 feet long by 66 broad. The Quay is a pleasant walk fronting the Thames. Hither Cowper, the poet, came, intending to make away with himself. OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY'S WOODS, FORESTS, AND LAND REVENUES, 1 and 2, Whitehall-place. This office is managed by two Commissioners. The forests have not yielded a profit for many years, so that the chief revenue of tlie office has been derived from the Crown property in houses in the Bailiwick of St. James, We.-stuiinster, and in the Regent's Park. The principal foi-est belonging to the Crown is the New Forest in Hamjjshire, formed by William the Conqueror, and in which William Rufus was slain. OFFICE OF HER MAJESTY'S PARKS, PALACES, AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS, 12, Whitehall-place. THE GENERAL POST-OFFICE, near St. Paul's, Ciieap- siDE, and Newgate Street, stands on the site of the church of St. Martin's-le-Grand, and was built 1825-29, from the designs of Sir R. Smirke, R.A. It is managed by a Post- Master-General, and one permanent Secretary, Sir Rowland Hill, together with a staff of clerks, sorters, letter-carriers, &c., amounting to 24,800 persons (1,500 belonging to the chief office), 3,300 to the London District). In 1840 the penny-post was introduced, which at first caused a loss of revenue, but now yields, after paying all expenses, nearly I5 million. The cost of manngement is about 1,926,108/. The Government Postage alone, in one ye;u', varies from 140,000/. to 160,000/. The number of letters delivered in a year amounts to 593,000 000, or eight-fold the number delivei'ed before the reduction of the postage to one penny for every letter not exceeding half an ounce, and the num- ber of newspapers has risen from 42 to 72 millions in a year. The number of letters delivered in tlie London district, comprising a radius of 12 miles round the Post- Office in St. Martiii's-le-Grand, is 6,270,000, far more than that delivered, under tlie old system, in the whole United Kingdom. Post-Ofice money-orders for sums not exceeding E 2 62 VII. — POST-OFFICE. 51., are issued at the several offices at the following rates : — For any sum not exceeding 21., threepence; above 21. and not exceeding 51., sixpence. A rostnl Officiul Circular, containing a statement of the arrival and departure of packet-boats, of unclaimed letters, &c., is published every morning, under the authority of the Post-Master-General. Letters for departure the same night are received at this office later than at any other office. Some notion of the extent of business carried on in this hive of industry may be obtained from the fact, that the weekly wages of the Loudon District Post alone amount to 1300^. In 1838 thei-e were 3,000 post-offices in England and Wales, now there are 11,000. As recently as 1826, there was but one receiving-office, in Pimlico, for letters to be delivered within the London radius ; and the nearest office for receiving general post letters, that a person living in Pimlico could go to, was situated in St. James's-street. In 1856-57 Ii'on Receiving PoaU, or Road Letter-Boxes, proj^erly secured, and inserted in the pavement, were placed in the principal tlioroughfares of London. There are now 2,000 of these. A person posting a letter early to a friend in town, may receive a rcjily and send a rejoinder on the same day. No house in Loudon is more than a furlong distant from a Letter Box, or than j of a mile from a Money-Order Office. Mail-coaches, for the conveyance of letters, were intro- duced in 1784. by Mr. Palmer; and the first conveyance of the kind left London for Bristol on the evening of the 24th of August, 1784. The penny postage (introduced by the untiring exertions of Sir Rowland Hill) came into operation on Januarj- 10th, 1840. Over against the facade of the Post-Office is the Jloney-Order Office of the same establish- ment, with a staff of 160 clerks and 2360 pigeon holes for the communications of the same number of Money-Order Offices throughout the United Kingdom. The ordei's issued in one year for tlie United Kingdom amount to nearly 15 million ))ounds sterling. In 1854 the average weight of the Post-Office mail-bags that left London daily was 279 cwt., of which 219 cwt. con- sisted of newspapers. At present 71,000,000 newspapers, and 7.i million book parcels arc delivered in one j-ear. Gencrtd Directions. — Letters addressed " Post-Office, London," or " Poste Restante, London," are delivered only at the General Post-Office, St. Mai-tin's-le-Grand. The hour.s of delivery from the Post-OfiBce are from 10 a.m. to 4 r.M. When the person applying for letters is a VII.— payiiaster-general's office. 53 foreigner, lie must produce his passport. AVlien a foreigner does not apply in person, but by a messenger despatclied for that purpose, tlie messenger must produce the pass- port of the person to whom tlie letters are addressed, as well as a written order, signed and dated by such person. In the case of a messenger being sent for the letters of more persons than one, he must produce passports and orders from each ijcrsou. If the applicant for the letters is a sub- ject of the United Kingdom, he must be able to state from what place or disti'ict lie expects letters before he can receive them. Subjects of States not issuing passports are treated as subjects of the United Kingdom. If letters are directed to individuals siniplj' addressed " London" (and not "Post- Ofi&ce," or '• Poste Restante, Loudon"), they will not be de- livered from the window at all, but will be sent out by letter-carriers for delivery at the address furnished by the applicant. Foreign letters addressed "Post-OfiBce," or " Poste Restante, Loudon," are retained for two mouths at the Post-OiEce. Inland letters similarly addressed are retained one month ; after the expiration of these periods both classes of letters are respectively sent to the Dead Letter-Office, to be disposed of in the usual manner. All persons applying for letters at the Post- Office must be prepared to give the necessary explanations to the clerk, in order to prevent mistakes, and to insure the delivery of the letters to the persons to whom they properly belong. In 185G London and its environs were divided into 10 postal districts, 1, East Central (E.G.) ; 2, West Central (W.C.) ; 3, N. ; 4, N.E. ; 5, E. ; 6, S.E. ; 7, S^. ■ 8, S.W.; 9, W; 10, N.W. The divisions between them can 1 e shown only on a map. A street list published by the Post-Of&ce gives the initials of the district after every street, and the public are invited to add these initials to the addresses of letters in order to facilitate rapid delivery. The Penny Queen's Heads are engraved, printed, and gummed at 5(/. per thousand. (See Introduction.) PAYMASTER-GENERAL'S OFFICE, Whitehall. The office of her i\Iajesty's Paymaster-General for the payment of army, navy, ordnance, civil services, and exchequer bills. The office is managed by a paymaster, an assistant-paymaster, and a staff of sixty clerks. It was originally the office of the Paymaster-General of the Forces, and was not permanently enlarged till lS3iJ, when the offices of Treasurer of the Navy and Treasurer of the Ordnance were abolished. This office is yearly increasing in importance, and before very long will make ueai'ly all the national payments in detail. 54 VII. — HORSE GUARDS. Quartei-ly payments of salaries ai'e made ou and after the Sth day of April, July, October, and January. HORSE GUARDS, at Whitehall. A guard-house and public building where the Commander-in-Chief, the Adjutant- General, Quartermaster-General, &c., have their offices. It was built about 1753, after a design furnished, it is said, by Kent. The archway imder it forms a principal entrance to St. James's Park from the east ; but the entree for carriages is permitted only to royal personages and others having leave. At each side of the entrance facing Whitehall a mounted cavalry soldier stands sentry everj' day from 10 to 4. The guard is relieved every morning at a quarter to 11. The pay of the General Commandins; -in-Chief is 9/. 9s. 6fZ. a day; of the Adjutant-General, 3?. 15.?. 10c?. a day; and of the Quartermaster-General, 2>l. los. 10c?. a day. The Adjutant- General is responsible to the Commander-in-Chief for the arming, clothing, training, recruiting, discipline, and general efficiency of the army ; the Quartermaster-General carries out the orders of the Commander-in-Chief as regards the movements and quarters of the troops.* The English sol- dier enlists for 10 or 12 j-ears, but may purchase his dis- charge at an earlier period. The British army is composed of about 9000 regimental officers on full pay, and the War Office is maintained at a cost of 160,000/. a year. The total cost of the British army before the Crimean War was about 7 millions, of the navy about 7 millions, and of the ord- nance about 3 millions. The number of men in the amiy is determined by the Cabinet and sanctioned by Parliament. The troops are divided into Household Troops, the Ordnance Corps, and the Line — the first seldom leaving England, except iu the case of war. A private of the Life Guards has Is. \l\d. a day, and a private of the Horse Guards Is. B\,d. a day; the difference arising from an oversight in 1796, in not withdrawing barrack allowances from the pri- vates of the Life Guards. The privates in the Foot Guards liave Ic?. a day more than the Line. The Line have Is. a day, and Id. a day for beer money. The ].rice of a Lieut.- Colonel's commission in the Guards is 9000?., and of an Ensign's commission 1200/. In the Line, the price of a Lieut.-Colonel's commission is 4500/., and of an Ensign's commission is 450/. * Sir Philip Francis, tlie supposed author of "Junius," was a clerk in the War Office from 1763 to 1772, when he resigned, or was removed, full of ire against Lord Barrington, who had promoted Mr, Chamier over his head to be Deputy Secretary at War. VII. — TnE ADMIRALTY- — SOMERSET HOUSE, 55 THE ADlNriRALTY, in Whitehall, occupies tlie site of Wallingford House, iu whicli the business of tlie Lord High. Athiiiral, lirst conducted here iu 1620 under Vidiers, Duke of Buckingham, became permanently established in the reign of William III. The front towards the street was built (circ. 1726) by Thomas Ripley, architect of Houghton Hall in Norfolk, the " Ripley with a rule," commemoiated by Pope. — The Dunciad, b. iii. " Sec under Ripley rise a new Wliitoliall, While Jones' and Boyle's united labours fall." The screen towards the street was erected in 1776 by the brothers Adam. The office of Lord High Admiral, since the Revolution of 1688, has, with three exceptions, been held in commission. The exceptions are, Prince George of Den- mark, the husband of Queen Anne, 1702 to 1708 ; Thomas, Eiirl of Pembroke, for a short time in 1709; and the Duke of Clarence, afterwards King William IV., iu 1827-28. Among the First Lords Commissioners we may find the names of Anson, Hawke, Howe, Keppell, and St. Vincent. Adjoin- ing to, and communicating with the Admii'alty. is a spacious house for the residence of the First Lor/, Trivia. The Duke of Portland, when Minister in the reign of George III., resided in Burlington House. Burlington House and the Garden in which it stands (area 113,000 square feet) were bought by Government in 1854 for 140,000^. for the benefit of the public. It accommodates at present — the Royal Society, whose meetings, as well as those of the Geographical Society, Liunaian, and Chemical, are held in tlie W. wing, originally the stables. The Examinations of the U'liversUt/ of London are held here, — also meetings of the Council: and other Learned Societies will probably be removed hitlier, for which purpose the house would require to be taken down and a new one built. It is probable that a jyo'i National Gallery will be built on this extensive site, which is admirably suited for the purpose. The RECORD OFFICE.— A Public Record Office wa.s built 1856 on the Rolls estate between Chancery-Lane and Fetter Lane. It is a vast fire-proof edifice, designed to iu- 60 VII. — RECORD OFFICE, elude the public records formerly kept iu the Tower of London ; tlie Chapter-house, Westminster ; the Rolls' Chapel ; and Diike-street, St. James's Pax-k. Here ai'e i^re- Ferved Domesday Book, or the Survey of England made by William the Conqueror, two volumes on vellum of unequal size, the garliest survey of the kind made in Europe, and is in a very perfect condition ; deed of resignation of the Scottish Crown to Edward II. ; the Charter granted by Alfonso of Castile to Edward I., on his marriage with Elea- nor of Castile, with a solid seal of gold attached; a Treaty of Peace between Henry VIII. and Francis I. of France, with the gold seal attached m high relief, and undercut, supposed to be the work of Beuveuuto Cellini. The several instruments of the surrender to Henry VIII. of the whole of the monasteries m England and Wales. Access to the papers in the Record and State Paper Office can be obtained by npplication to Duffus Hardy, hsq., Rolls' Court, Cliancery Lane. Unrestricted access to State papers since the Revolution is granted only by a written order from the Secretary of State for the Home Depart- ment. The Prerogative Will Office in Doctors' Commons, (St. Paul's). All wills are firoved and administi-ation granted under the Prerogative of the Archbishop of Caiiteibury. The office abounds iu matter of great biographical impor- tance — illustrative of the lives of eminent men, of the descent of property, and of the manners and customs of bygone times. Since April, 1SG2, free access is given, to consult ancient wills, &c., on application, by letter, to " the Judge at the Principal Registry, Court of Probate, London," for literary inquirers, stating name, address, profession, object of search, and time of visit. The Department for Literary Inquiry is open from 10, A.M., to 3, P.M., except from August 10th to October lOtb, when it is open from 11 to 2oib It is closed Saturdays and holidays. Visitors are allowed, without fees, to search the calendars, read registered copies of wills before 1700, and to make extracts in pencil only. Only three persons can be admitteil at a time. Here may be seen the original will of Shakspeare, on three folio sheets of papei', witli his signature to each sheet ; the wills of Van Dyck the painter, of luigo Jones, Sir Isaac Newton, Dr. Johnson, Izaak Walton ; in short, of all the great men of this country who died possessed of property in the south of England. The will of Napoleon, made at St. Helena, by which he bequeathed 10,000 francs to Cantillon, i^ 33 fr . tr- |^|4; VIII. — BANK OF ENGLAND. 61 a French isoldier, for trying to shoot the Duke of Wel- lington, in Paris, was surrendered to the French, 1853. The office hours at the Prerogative Will Office are 9 to 3 in winter, and 9 to 4 in summer. The charges fur searching the calendars of names is Is. for every name. The charge for seeing the original will is a shilling extra. Persons are not allowed to make even a pencil memorandum, but official copies of wills may be had at eightpence per folio. At the Department for Personal Application, persons may prove a will and take out probate withoixt assistance of Proctor or Solicitor since 1861. . /OA/^ . Vlll.-COMMERCiAL BUILDINGS AND DOCKSr^ *^ r BAXK OF ENGLAND, Threadneedle-street, City (West End Branch in Burlington Gardens). — "The principal Bank of Deposit and Circulation ; not in this couutiy only, but in Europe,"- — was founded in 1094, and grew out of a loan of 1,200,000^. for the public service. Its principal projector was Mr. William Paterson, a Scotch gentleman (en- couraged by Cliarles Montague, afterwards Chancellor of the Exchequer and Earl of Halifax) ; who, according to his own account, commenced his exertions for the establishment of a National Bank in 1G91. By the laws and regulations which he left, no Scotchman is eligible to fill the post of a Director. From 1G94 to 1734, the business of the Bank was carried on in Grocers' Hall, in the Poultry, when it was removed to an establishment of its own (part of the present edifice), designed by Mr. George Sampson. East and west wings were added by Sir Robert Taylor, between 1766 and 1786. Sir John Soane subsequently rtceiving the appointment of architect to the Bank, part of the old building was either altered or taken down, and the Bank, much as we now see it, covering an irregular area of four acres, was completed by him. It has the merit of being well adapted for the purposes and business of the Bank. The corner towards Lothbury, though small, is much admired. It is copied from the Temi>le of the Sybil, at Tivoli. The stone copings, or brea^^t-work, behind the balustrade along the top of the wall, were added by C. K. Cockerel), R.A., after the Char- tist meeting on the 10th of April, 1848. The area in the centre, planted with trees and shrubs, and ornamented with a fountain, was formerly the chiu'chyard of St. Christopher, Threadneedle-street. The management of the Bank is vested in a Governor, Deputy-Governor, and twenty-four 62 VIII. — BANK OF ENGLAND. Directors, eight of whom go out eveiy year. The qualifi- cation for Governor is 4000^. Stock, Deputy-Governor 3000^., and Director 2000Z. The room in which the Directors meet is called tlie Bank Parlour. The jirofits accrue from interest on Exchequer-bills, discounts, interest on capital lent to Government, an allowance of about 40,000Z. a year for managing the Public Debt, and some other sources. The dividend received by the proprietors is 7 per cent. In the lobby of the Parlour is a portrait of Abraham Newland, who rose from a baker's counter to be chief clerk of the Bank of England, and to die enormously rich. Madox, who wrote the History of the Exchequer, was the first chief cashier. The persons employed wci-e at first only 54; they are now 900. The salaries rise from 50Z. to 1200^. a year. The cost in salaries alone is about 210,000Z. a year. There is a valuable library, for the use of the clerks. The Bidlion Office is situated on the N. side, in the basement story, and formed part of the original structure. It consists of a public chamber for the transaction of business, a vault for public deposits, and a vault for the private stock. Ko one is allowed to enter the bullion vaults except iu company of a Dii'ector. The amouut of bullion in the possession of the Bank of England constitutes, along with their securities, tlie afesets which they place against their liabilities, on account of circulation and deposits ; and the difiference (about three millions) between the several amounts is called the " Rest," or guarantee fund, to pro- vide for the contingency of possible losses. Gold is almost exclusively obtained by the Bank in the " bar " form ; although no form of the deposit would be refused. A bar of gold is a small slab, weighing 16 lb., and worth about 800/. In the process of weighing, a number of admii-ably-con- structed balances are brought into operation. A large balance, invented by Mr. Bate, weighs silver in bars, from 50 lb. to 80 lb. troy; — a balance, invented in 1820 by Sir John Barton, of the Mint, weighs gold coin in quantities varying from a few ounces to 18 lb. troy, and gold in bars of any weight up to 15 lb. These instruments are very per- fect in their action, admit of easy regulation, and are of durable construction. The balance made by Air. Cotton, is furnished with glass weights, and weighs at the rate of 33 sovereigns a minute. The machine appears to be a square brass box, in the inside of which, secure from currents of air, is the machinery. This wonderful and ingenious piece of mechanism is so contrived, that, on receiving the VIII. — ROYAL EXCHANGE. 63 sovereigns, it discriminates so as to throw those of full weight into one box, and to reject those of light weight into another. There are 10 of tliese machines in operation, and they weigh between 60,000 and 70,000 pieces dailj^ Do not omit to see the wonderful machinery, invented by Jolm Oldham (d. 1840), by which bauli-notes are printed and num- bered with mierring precision, in progression from 1 to 100,000 ; the whole accompanied by such a system of regis- tration and checlis as to record everything that every part of the machine is doing at any moment, and render fraud impossible. The value of Bank-notes in circulation is up- wards of 18,000,000?., and the nmiiber of persons receiving dividends in one year is about 284,000. The Stock or An- nuities upon which the Public Dividends ai'e payable amount to about 774,000,000?., and the yearly dividends payable thereupon to about 25,000,000?. Tlie issue of paper on secu- rities is not permitted to exceed 14,000,000?. Tiie bullion in the vaults, 17,320,000?. The mode of admission to view the interior of the Bank, Bullion Office, &c., is by special order from the Governoi-, Deputy-Governor, or anj^ of the Directors. For a list of Bank Directors for the current year, see any almanac or pocket-book. Strangers may walk through the public rooms, Hall, Rotunda, &c., any day except holidays, from 9 to 3. THE ROYAL EXCHANGE (a quadrangular edifice, with a portico on the W. side facing down Clieapside ; and the third building of tlie kind on the same site), erect^'d for the convenience of merchanta and bankers; built from the designs of William Tite, and opened by Queen Victoria, Oct. 28th, 1844. The sculpture in the pediment was by R. Westmacott, R.A. (the younger). The Exchange con- sists of an open court or quadrangle, surrounded by a colonnade, with a marble statue of her Majesty, by LouL'h ; and statues of Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir Hugh Myddelton, and Queen Elizabeth, by Messrs. Joseph, Carew, and Wat- son. It is said to have cost 180,000?.; but is now much disfigured externally by shops, in opposition to the firmly expressed wishes of its architect. The hour of 'Change, tlie bu.sy period, is from half-past 3 to half-past 4 p.m. The two great days on 'Change are Tuesday and Fri- day. The Rothschilds occupy a pillar on the S. side. In the E. pai't, up-stairs, arc Lloyd's Stibscri/ition Rooms {priginaHy Lloyd's C"ffec House), the centre and focus of all intelligence, commercial and political, domestic and foreign, where merchants, shippers, and underwriters attend to 64 VIII. — ROYAL EXCHANGE — LLOYD'S. obtain shipping intelligence, and where the business of Marine Insui-ance is carried on through the medium of underwriters. There is no one engaged in any extensive mercantile business in London who is not either a member or subscriber to Lloyd's ; and thus the collective body represents the greater part of the mercantile wealth of the country. The entrance to Lloyd's is in the area, near the eastei'n gate of the Royal Elxchatige. A wide flight of steps leads to a handsome vestibule, ornamented by marble statues of Prince Albert, by Lough; the late Williara Huskisson, by Gibson, R.A., presented by his widow. On the walls is the tablet, erected as a testimonial to the "Times" newspaper, for the public spirit displayed by its proprietor in the ex- posure of a fraudulent conspiracy. In this vestibule are the entrances to the three principal subscription-rooms — the Underwriters', the Merchants', and the Captains' Room. The affairs of Lloyd's are managed by a committee of nine members. Tlie cliairmau is elected annually : he is generally a merchant of eminence and a member of Parliament. There is a secretary and 8 clerks, 8 waiters, and 5 messengei's. The expenses amount to upwards of 10,000/. per annum. The income is derived from the subscriptions of about 1900 members and subscribers, and substitutes ; the )iaynients from the insurance and other public companies; the adver- tising of ships' bills, and the sale of Lloyd's List. Each member pays 25/. admission, and an annual subscriptinn of 4/. 4.V. ; but if an underwriter, 10/. lOs. Annual subscribers to the whole establishment paj' four guineas, or if to the Merchants' Room only, then two guineas. Tlie admission is by ballot of the committee, on the recommendation of six subscribers. What is called LJojirfs Rcf/isfer of Bvlthh and Foreign Shipping is in No. 2, White-Lioncourt, Coruhill, and was establis'iied in 1834. The object of the Society was to obtain a knowledge of tlie condition of the mercantile shipping, by means of cai'eful surveys to be made by competent surveyors, and thus to secure an accurate classification according to the real and intrinsic worth of the ship. The affairs of the Society which instituted this book are managed by a com- mittee consisting of 24 members, namely 8 merchants, 8 shipowners, and 8 underwriters. Six members (2 of each of the description just mentioned) retire annually, but are eligible to be re-elected. The right of election rests equally with the committee for Lloyd's and the committee of the General Shipowners' Society. On the architrave of the N. fayade of the Exchange are VIII. — TRINITT HOUSE. — STOCK EXCHANGE. 65 inscriptions in relief, divided by a simple moulding. " The Earth is the Lord's and the fulness thereof," was .suggested by the Prince Consort. The one on the left of the spec- tator is the common City motto, "domine dirige Nos," and that on the right " honor DEO." The motto in the central compartment, "Fortvn. a. my," was the motto of Sir Thomas Gresham, founder of the first Royal Exchange, loC6, which was opened by Queen Elizabeth, Jan. 23rd, 1570-1. TRINITY HOUSE, ou the N. side of Tower Hill, built l)y Samuel "Wyatt. The house belongs to a company or corporation founded by Sir Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., and commander of the Harry Grace de Dieu, and was incorporated (March 20th, 1.529) by the name of "' The Master, AVardens, and Assistants of the Guild, Fraternity, or Brotherhood, of the most glorious and Undivid- able Trinity, and of St. Clement, in the parish of Deptford Strond, in the county of Kent." The corporation consists of a Master, Deputy Master, 31 Elder Brethren, and an unlimited number of " younger brethren," and has for its object the in- crease and encouragement of navigation, &c., the regulation of light-houses, and seamarks, the securing of a body of skilled and efficient pilots for the navy and mercantile service, and the general management of nautical matters not immediately connected with the Admiralty. The revenue of the corpora- tion, arising from tonnage, ballastage, beaconage, &c., is applied (after defraying the expenses of light-houses, buoys, &c ) to the relief of decayed seamen, their widows and children. STOCK EXCHANGE, Capel Court. Re-built 1853 (Thomas Allason, architect). This, the ready-money mai'ket of the world, was removed hither in 1802 from Change- alley. It stands immediately in fi-ont of the Bank of England. Capel-coui't was so called from the London residence and place of business of Sir William Capel, ancestor of the Capels, Earls of Essex, and Lord Mayor in 1504. The members of the Stock Exchange, about 850 in number, consist of dealers (called .;o66e?'s), brokers in British and foreign funds, railway and other shares exclusively ; each member paying 1 0^. yearly. A notice is posted at every entrance that none but members are admitted. A stranger is soon detected, and by the custom of the place is made to understand that he is an intruder, and turned out. The admission of a member takes place in committee, and is by ballot. The election is only for one year, so that each member has to be re-elected every Lady 66 VIII.— EAST INDIA HOUSK, day. The committee, consisting of thirty, are elected by the members at the same time. Every new member of the "house," as it is called, must be introduced by tln-ee members, each of wliom enters into security in 300/. for two years. An apjilicant for admission who has been a clerk to a member for the space of four years has to provide only two securities for 250/. for two years. Foreigners must liave resided tive years before eligible for election. A bankrupt member immediately ceases to be a member, and cannot be re-elected unless he pays 6s. 8d. in the pound from resources of his own. The usual commission charged by a broker is one-eighth per cent, upon the stock sold or purchased ; but on foreign stocks, railway bonds and shares, it varies according to the value of the securities. The broker generally deals with the "jobbers," as they arc called, a class of members who are dealers or middle men, who remain in the Stock Exchange in readiness to act upon the appeaiuuce of the brokers, but the market is entirely open to all the members, so that a broker is not compelled to deal with a jobber, but can treat with another broker. The fluctuations of price are produced by sales and purchases, by continental news, domestic politics and finance ; and sometimes by a fraud or trick like that ascribed to Lord Cochrane and others, in 1814, when the members were victimised to a large amount.* The East India. Hodse, Leadenhall Street, was pulled down and the materials sold 1801. The pi'ivate business is now carried on in a small office, 1, Mourgate Street, The East India Company, the largest and most mag- nificent company in the world, was first incorporated in 1600. The government of India by the Company and Court of Directors came to an end Sej^t. 1st, 1858. being trans- ferred to the Ministers of the Crown, with a council of 12 members, under a Secretary of State for India. .\ new Indi n Office is about to be built in the neighbourhood of Whitehall. See East India Museum in Index. THE DOCKS OF LONDON, viz., St. Katherine's Docks, nearest to London, West India Docks, East India Docks, Loulon Docks, Vicror.a Docks, and Commercial Docks, have all been formed since 1800, previous to which time the proprietors of wharfs and landing-places, both above and below bridge, opposed their formation. All these Docks have been constructed by joint-stock companies, and though * The " Rules and Regulations of the Sfock Exchange" are in print, and arti 173 in niinr e'-. The House Is shut ou Good Friday and Christ- mas Day In every year. VIII. — DOCKS. 67 uot unprofitable to their promoters, have redounded more to the advantage of the Port of Loudon than to that of their projectors. WEST INDIA DOCKS ("William Jessop. engineer) cover 295 acres, and lie between Liniehouso and Blackwall, on the left bank of the Thames. The first stone was laid by William Pitt, July 12th, IbOO, and the docks opened for business, 1802. The northern, or Import Dock, is 170 yards long by 1G6 wide, and will hold 204 vessels of 300 tons each; and the southern, or E.xport Dock, is 170 yai'ds long by 135 yards wide, and will hold 195 vessels. South of tlie E.xport Dock is a canal nearly 5 of a mile long, cutting off the great bend of the river, connecting Limehouse Reach with Black- wall Reach, and forming the northern boundar^^ of the Isle of Dogs. The two docks, with their warehouses, are en- closed by a lofty wall five feet in thickness, and have held at one time 148,5(i3 casks of sugar, 70.875 barrels and 433,648 bags of coffee, 35,158 pipes of rum and Madeira, 14,021 logs of mahogany, and 21,350 tons of logwood. Though they retain their old name, the}' belong to the East and \Yest India Dock Company, and are used by every kind of shipping. The office of the Company is at No. 8, Billiter-square ; and the best way of reaching the docks is by the Blackwall Railwaj'. The original cajiital of the Company was 500,000/., afterwards raised to 1,200,000/. The revenues in 1809 amounted to 330.623/., and in 1813, when they reached their climax, to 449,421/. In 18(:i0, 1200 vessels of 4 98,366 tons discharged in these iniited docks ; the gross earniiius were 404,162/., the nett do. 110,583/. Capital of the East and West India Companies, 2 midions. EAST INDIA DOCKS, Blackwall, a little lower down the river than tho West India Docks, and considerably smaller, were originally erected for the East India Company, but since the opening of the trade to India, the property of the East and West India Companies. The first stone was laid March 4th, 1805, and the docks opened for business Aug. 4th, 1806. The number of directors is 13, who must each hold 20 shares in the stock of the Comp.any, and 4 of them must be directors of the I'last India Comjiany. This forms tho only connexion which the East India Company has with the Docks. The possession of five shares gives a right of voting. The Import Dock has an ai'ea of 19 acres, the Export Dock of 10 aci'es, and the Basin of 3, making a total surface of 32 acres. The gates are closed at 3 in the winter months, and at 4 in the summer months. Tlie mode of admission for visitors is much stricter F 2 68 VIII.— DOCKS. than at any of the other Docks. The best way of reaching the Docks is by the Blackwall Railway from Fenchurch-street. This is the head-quarters of White Bait, which may be had in the neighbouring Brunswick Tavern. ST. KATHERINE'S DOCKS, near the Tower. First stone laid May 3rd, 1827, and the Docks publicly opened, Oct. 25th, 1823; 12.50 houses, including the old Hospital of St. Kathe- rine, were purchased and pulled down, and 11,300 inhabitants removed, in clearing the ground for this magnificent under- taking, of which Mr. Telford was the engineer, Mr. Hardmck the architect, and Sir John Hall, the late secretary, the active promoter. The total cost was 1,700,000^. The area of the Docks is about 24 acres, of which 11^ are water. The lock is sunk so deep that ships of 700 tons burden may enter at any time of the tide. The warehouses, vaults, sheds, and covered ways will contain 110,000 tons of goods. The gross earnings of the Company in 1860 were 261,995/., nett, 71,756Z. ; and 905 vessels entered. Capital 1861, 2,500,000Z. The earth excavated at St. Katherine's when the Docks were formed was carried by water to Millbank, and employed to fill up the cuts or reservoii's of the Chelsea Waterwoi'ks Company, on which, under I\Ir. Cubitt's care, Eccleston-square, and much of the south side of Pimlico, has been since erected. THE LONDON DOCKS, situated on the left bank of the Thames, between St. Katherixe's Docks and Ratcliffe Highway. The first and largest dock (John Rennie, engineer) was opened, Jan. 30th, 1805 ; the entrance from the Thames at Shadwell (Henry R. Palmer, engineer) was made, 1831 ; and the New Tea Warehouses, capacious enough to receive 120,000 chests, woi-e erected in 1844-45. This magnificent establishment compi'ises an area of 90 acres — 34^ acres of water, 49^ acres of floor in warehouses and sheds, 20 acres of vault. There are 20 warehouses, 259 floors in these warehouses, 18 sheds, 17 vaults, and 6 quays, with three entrances from the Thames, viz., Hermitage, 40 feet in width; Wapping, 40 feet; and Shadwell, 45 feet. The Western Dock comprises 20 acres ; the Eastern, 7 acres ; and the Wapping Basin, 3 acres. The entire structure cost 4,000,000?. of money. In 1858, 2 new locks were made, 60 feet wide, and a new basin, 780 feet by 450 feet; Rendall, Engineer. The wall alone cost 65,000?. The walled-in range of dock possesses water-room for 302 sail of vessels, exclusive of lighters; warehouse-room for 220,000 tons of goods ; and vault-room for 60,000 pipes of wine. The tobacco warehouse VIII.— DOCKS. 69 alone covers 5 acres. The number of ships entered in ISGO was 1032, measuring 42J:,3oS tons. Six weeks are allowed for unloading, beyond which period the charge of a farthing per ton is made for the first two weelss, and a halfpenny per ton afterwards. Tiie business of the Docks is managed by a Court of Directors, who sit at the London Dock House, in New Bank-buildings. The capital of the shareholders is 5,000,000^. As many as 3000 labourers have been employed in these docks in one day. " The Tobacco Warehouses are rented by Government at 14,000?. a year. They will contaiu about 24,000 hogsheads, averaging 12001b. each, and equal to 30,000 tons of general merchandise. Passages and alleys, each several hundred feet long, are bordered on both sides by close and com- pact ranges of hogslieads, with here and there a small space for the counting-house of the oilicers of customs, under whose inspection all the arrangements are conducted. Near the north-east corner of the ware- houses is a door inscribed ' To the Kiln,' where damaged tobacco is burnt, the long chimney whicli carries otftlie smoke being jocularly called ' Tlie Queen's Pipe.'" — Knight's London, iii. 76. This is the great depot for the stock of wines belonging to the Wine Merchants of London. Port is principally kept in pipes; sherry in hogsheads. On the 30th of June, 1849, the Dock contained 14,783 pipes of port ; 13,107 hogsheads of sherry ; 64 pipes of Fi-euch wine ; 790 pipes of Cape wine; 7<307 cases of wine, containing 19,140 dozen; 10,113 hogsheads of bi-andy ; and 3642 pipes of I'um. The total of port was 14,783 pipes, 4460 hogsheads, and 3161 quarter casks. " As you enter the dock, the sight of the forest of masts in the distance and the tall chimneys vomiting clouds of black smoke, and the many- coloured flags flying in tlie air, has a most peculiar eft'ect; while the Blieds, with tlie monster wlieels arching througli the roofs, look like the paddle-boxes of huge steamers. Along the quay, you see now men with their faces blue with indigo, and now gangers with their long brass- tipped rule dripping with spirit from the cask they have been probing; then will come a group of fiaxen-haired sailors, chattering Uerraan ; and next a black sailor, with a cotton handkerchief twisted turban-like around liis head. Presently a blue-smocked butcher, with fresh meat and a bunch of cabbages iu the tray on his shoulder, and shortly afterwards a mate witli green parroquets in a wooden cage. Here you will see, sitting on a bench, a sorrowful-looking woman, with new bright cooking tins at her feet, telling you she is an emigrant preparing for her voyage. As you pass along this quay the air is pungent with tobacco; at that it overpowers you with the fumes of rum. Then yon are. nearly sickened with the stench of hides and huge bins of lioms, and shortly afterwards the atmosphere is fragrant with coffee and spice. Nearly everywhere you meet stacks of cork, or else yellow bins of sulphur or lead-coloured copper ore. As yon enter this warehouse, the flooring is sticky, as if it had been newly tarred, with the sugar that has leaked through the casks, and as j'ou descend into the darlc vaults yon see long lines of light-s hanging from the black arches, and lamps flitting about midway. Here yon sniti' the fumes of the wine, and there the peculiar fungous smell of dry-rot. Then the jumble of soimds as you pass along the dock blends in 70 VIII. — DOCKS. — CORN EXCHANGE. anything but sweet concord. The sailors are singing boisterous nigger songs from the Yankee ship just entering, the cooper is hammering at the casks on tlie quay; the chains of llic; cranes, loosed of their weight, rattle as they fly up again ; the ropes splasli in the water ; some captain shouts his orders througli his hands ; a goat bleats from some sliip in the basin ; and empty casks roll along the stones with a hollow drum- like sound. Here the heavy-laden ships are down far below the quay, and you descend to them by ladders, whilst in another basin they are high up out of tlie water, so that their green copper sheathing is almost level with the eye of the passenger, while above his head a lung line of bowsprits stretch far over the quay, and from them hang spars and planks as a gangway to each ship. This immense establislunent is worked by from one to three thousand hands, according as the business is either ' brisk ' or ' slack.' " — Henry JSlayhevj, Labour and the Poor. Mode of Admission. — The basins and sliippiug are open to the public ; but to inspect the vaults and warehouses an order must be obtained from the Secretary at the London Dock House in New Bank-buildings ; ladies are not admitted after 1 p.m. COMMERCIAL DOCKS. Five ample and commodious docks on the south side of the river, the property of the Com- mercial Dock Company, with an entrance from the Thames nearly opposite King's-Arms-stairs in the Isle of Dogs. They were opened in 1807. Tlie old Docks intended for Greenland ships are enlarged and provided with warehouses for bonding foreign corn. They comprise 49 acres, 40 of which are water ; and are principally used by vessels engnged in the Baltic and East Country commerce and importation of timber. The removal of the mud deposited in the Docks by the steam navigation of the Thames costs the Company, on an average, about lOOOZ. a year. VICTOllIA DOCKS, the newest and perhaps mo.st flourishing, on the left bank of the Thames below Blackvvall, occupy 200 acres of Plaistow marshe*, 8 feet below Trinity high-water mark. Tlie largest of 3 pair of lock-gates is 80 feet spun, entirely of iron, and well worth notice. These Docks were begun 1850, opened 1856 ; cost one million ! Capital, one million, rates low. Large quantities of guano from Peru are housed here. Tlie SLTIlllEV DOCKS, adjoining the Commercial New Docks: entrances and basins are forming by Messrs. Bidder at a cost of 100,0011/. CORN EXCHANGE, Mark Lane, City, projected and opened 1747, enlarged and partly rebuilt in 1827 and 1828. Market days, Mon., Wed., and Fri. Hours of business are from 10 to 3; Monday is the principal day. Wheat is paid for in bills at one month, and all other de- VlII. — COAL EXCIJA>-GE — RAILWAY STATIONS. 71 sciiptions of com and grain in bills at two months. The Kentish "hoymen" (distinguished by theii" sailors' jackets) have stands free of expense, and pay less for rentage and dues than others. COAL EXCHANGE, in Lower Thames Street, nearly opposite Billingsgate, established pursuant to 47 Geo. IlL, cap. G8. The tirat stoue (J. B. Bunoing, arch.,) was laid Dec. 14th, 1817, and the building opened by Prince Albert, Oct. 30th, 1819. In making the foundations a Roman hypo- caust was laid open. It has been arched ovei-, and is still visible. The interior decorations of the Exchange are by F. Sang, and are both appropriate and instructive, represent- ing the various species of ferns, palms, and other plants found fossilised amid strata of the coal formation ; the principal collieries and mouths of the shafts ; portraits of men who have rendered service to the trade; colliers' tackle, imple- ments, &c. The floor is laid in the form of the mariner's compass, and consists of upwards of 40,000 pieces of wood. The black oak portions were taken from the bed of the Tyiie, and the mulberry wood introduced as the blade of the dagger in the Citj^ shield was taken from a tree said to have been planted by Peter the Great when working iu this country as a shipwright. The Museum is open the lat Mon- day ' MARKET. "How this gate took that name, or of what antiquity tlie same is, I must leave uncertain, as not having read any ancient record thereof, more than that Geffrey Monmouth writeth, that Belin, a king of tlie Britons, about four hundred years before Christ's Nativity, built this gate, and named it Belin's gate, after liis own calling; and that when he was dead, his body being burnt, the ashes in a vessel of brass were set upon a high pinnacle of stone over the same gate. It seemeth to me not to be so ancient, but rather to have taken that name of some later owner of the place, happily named Beling or Biling, as Somer's key. Smart's key, Frost wharf, and others thereby, took their names of their owners." — Slow, p. 17. The coarse language of the place has long been famous : — " There stript, fair Rhetoric languish'd on the ground; His blunted arms by sophistry are borne. And sliameless Billingsgate her robes adorn." Fojie, The Dunciad, B. iv. "One may term Billingsgate/' says old Fuller, "the Esculine gate of London." The market opens at 5 o'clock throughout the year. All fish are sold by the tale except salmon, whicli is sold by weight, and oysters and shell-fish, which are sold by measure. The salmon imports are from Scotland and Ireland, and from Holland, and the north of Europe. The best cod is brought from the Dogger-bank, and the greater number of the lobsters from Norway. The eels are chiefly from Holland. Tlie oyster season commences 4t;h Au^ur-t. Many attempts have been made to estimate the value of the fish sold or consumed in London. The consumption is less than the sale, the opening of railways having made London the fish-market of at least half of England. Salmon is sent in boxes on com- mission to agents, who charge 5 per cent, and take the risk of bad debts. This business is iu few hands, and those en- gaged in it are the most wealthy of all dealers in fish. Here every day (at 1 and 4), at the "Three Tuns Tavern," a capital dinner may be had for Is. 6d., including three kinds of fish, joints, steaks, and bread and cheese. COVENT GARDEN MARKET, the great fruit, vegetable and herb market of London, originated (circ. 1656) iu a few temporary stalls and sheds at the back of the garden wall of Bedford-house on the south side of the square. The present Market-place (William Fowler, architect) was erected (1830) at the expense of the late Duke of Bedford. The market is rated (184y) to the poor at 4800/., rather under than above the amount derived from the rental and the tolls. The stranger in London who wishes to see what Covent-gardeu Market is like, should visit it on a Tuesday, Thui-sday, or Satur- day morning in summer, between 3 and 7 o'clock. To see the supply of fruit and vegetables carted off, 7 a.m. is early IX. — NEWGATE AND LEADENHALL MARKETS. to enough. To enjoy the sight and smell of flowers and fruit, the finest in the world, any time from 10 a.m. to 4 or 5 p.m. will answer. A ptwcr market covered with plass after the fashion of tlie Crystal Palace \va.s built 1859, on the S. side of the Opera House. Entrance from Covent Garden and from Bow Street. NEWGATE MARKET, between Newgate-street and Paternostf,r-row, the great carcase-market of London, originally a meal market. It is much frequented, and grew into reputation from the time when the stalls and sheds were removed from Butcher-liall-laue and the localities adjoining the now destroyed church of St. Nicholas Shambles. The West End carcase bulcliers come to this market for almost all their meat ; and Newgate-street, on a market morning, has not been inaptly likened to one continuous butcher's tray. LEADENHALL MARKET, Gracechurch-stroet, for but- chers' meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, leather, hides, bacon, &c. The manor-house of Leadenhall, which gave the name to the market, belonged (130;)) to Sir Hugh Neville, knight, Jind was converted into a granary for the City by Simon Eyre, draper, and Mayor of London, in 1445. It appears to have been a large building and covered with lead, then an unusual roofing on halls and houses. The market escaped the Great Fire of 1600. " WoulcVst thou with mighty heef augment thy meal, Seek Leadenhall." — Gay, Trivia. Leadenhall is no longer celebrated for its beef, but is de- servedly esteemed as the largest and best poultry market in London. Farringdon Market is a general market for butchers' meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, and fruit. It is the gi'eat water-ci'ess market of London. The greatest number of horses are sold at Tattersall's, in Grosvcuor-place, close to St. George's Hospital, entered by a narrow lane at the side of it. The mart was so called after Richard Tattersall (d. ITy.'i), originally a training groom to the second and last Uuke of Kingston, who laid the found- ation of his fortune by the purchase, for 2500/., of the cele- brated horse " Highflyer." All horses for sale must be sent on the Friday before the day of sale. The days of sale are Mondays throughout the year, and Thursdays in the height of the season. Here is a subscription-room, under the revision of the Jockey Club (who have rooms in Old Bond- street), and attended by all the patrons of the turf, from 76 IX. — tattersall's. x. — breweries. noblemen down to stable-keepers. Daj'S of meeting, Monday and Thui-sday throughout the year. Settling days, Tuesday after the Derby, Monday after the St. Legei". It is necessary to have an introduction from a subscriber. Annual sub- scription, 21. 2s. The number of members is stated to be between three and four hundred. The betting at Tattersall's regulates the betting throughout the country. X.-BREWERIES. Among the many curiosities to be seen in London few will be found more interesting to the agriculturist than a visit to one or other of the great breweries. The fol- lowing statement of the malt used by the most eminent Ijondon brewers in one year, is supposed to be an average of the consumption for some years past : — Qvs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co., Park-street, Soutliwark . . 127,000 Truman, Hanbury, Buxton, and Co., Brick-lane, Spitalfields. 140,000 Meux and Co., Tottenham Court Road 59,G17 Reid and Co., Liquorpond-street, Gray's Inn-lane . . . 56,640 Whitbread and Co., Chiswell-st., Old-street-road, St. Luke's 51,800 Combe and Co., Castle-street, Long Acre .... 43,282 Late Calvert and Co., 89, Upper Thames-street . . . . 29,630 Mann and Co , 172, Whitechapel-road 24,030 Charrington and Co.. Mile-end-road 22,023 Thorn and Co., Horseferry-road, Millbank .... 21,016 Taylor and Co., HoUoway 15,870 At Barclay's (the largest, extending over 11 acres) 600 quar- ters of malt are brewed daily. Among the many vats, one is pointed out containing 3500 barrels of porter, whicli, at the selling price, would yield 9000^. The water iised is drawn from a well 367 feet deep. One hundred and eighty horses are employed in the cartage department. They are brought principally from Flanders, cost from 50^. to 80^. each, and are noble specimens of the cart-horse breed. There are four partners in Barclay's house, who conduct every department of it in the most liberal manner. Their head brewer has a salary of lOOOZ. a year. The founder of the firm was Henry Thrale, the friend of Dr. Johnson. The business, at Thrale's death, was sold by Johnson and his brother executor, in behalf of Mrs. Thrale, to Messrs. Barclay, Perkins, and Co., for 135,000^. " We are not here," said Johnson on the day of sale, " to sell a parcel of boilers and vats, but the potentiality of growing rich beyond the dreams of avarice." Robert Barclay, the first of the name in the firm (d. 1831), was a descendant of the famous Barclay who wrote the Apology for the Quakers, and Perkins was the XI. — WATER COMPANIES. V7 chief clerk on Thrale's establisliinent. While on his tour to the Hebrides, in 1773, Johnson mentioned that Thrale "paid 20,000/. a j'car to the revenue, and that he had four vats, each of which held 1600 barrels, above a thousand hogsheads." The amount at present paid to the revenue by the firm is nine times 20,000/. The visitor should exert his influence among his friends to obtain an oi'der of admission to any one of the larger Brew- eries. Foreigners wearing moustaches had better abstain altogether, remembering the disgraceful treatment which an Austrian officer received in one of these establishments. The best London porter and stout in draught is to be had at the Cock Tavern, 201, Fleet-street, and at the Rainbow Tavern, 15, Fleet-street, immediately opposite. Judges of ale recom- mend John O'Groat's, 61, Rupert-street, Haymarket; and the Edinburgh Castle, 322, Strand. XI.-WATER COMPANIES. The cities of London and ^Yestminster, and the borough of Southwark, and certain parishes and places adjacent thei-eto, are at present supplied with water hj nine Com- panies, who exercise absolute and irresponsible discretion in the qualitj% price, and quantity, of the article they sell. These Companies are : — -New River Company ; East Lon- don Water Works Company ; Southwark and Vauxhall Water Company; West Middlesex WatePv Works Com- pany ; Lambeth Water Works Company ; Chelsea Water Works Company ; Grand Junction Water Works Com- pany ; Kent Water Works Company ; Hampstead Water Works Company. The daily supply is nearly 46 millions of gallons per day, of which 20 millions are from the Thames, and 26 millions from the New River and other sources. This supply is equal, it is said, to a river 9 feet wide and 3 feet deep, running at two miles an hour. The City is entirely supplied from the New River and tlie River Lea ; not by the Thames. The nine companies supply 271,795 tenements ; the New River supplying 83,206 of that numbei-. The Thames has hitherto beeu at once our cistern and our cesspool ; but this great disgrace is in some degree remedied, as far as supply is concerned by an Act passed in 1852 direct- iug that on and after 31st of August, 1855, no companies?, except the Chelsea Company, shall take water from any part of the Thames below Teddingtou Lock. The new system of 78 XII. — MAIN DRAINAGE. — SEWERAGE. Main Dminnge (1859-63) will, it is hoped, relieve the Thames from the second reproach of foulness. The NEW RIVER is an artificial stream, 38 miles in length, about 18 feet wide and 4 feet deep, projected 1608-9, and com- pleted 1620, by Sir Hu^'h Myddeltou, a native of Denbigh, in Wales, and a member of the Goldsmiths' Company, for the pur- pose of supplying the City of London with water. Nearly ruined by his scheme, Myddelton parted with his interest in it to a company, called the New River Company, in whose hands it still remains, reserving to himself and his heirs for ever an annuity of lOOZ. per annum. This annuity ceased to be claimed about the year 1715. The river has its rise at Chadwell Springs, situated in meadows, midway between Hertford and Ware, runs for several miles parallel with the river Lea, from which it borrows water at Ware, and at last empties itself into 83,206 tenements, and do\\u the throats of 800,000 persons, having man a vt-ry circuitous courr^e from its source to London. The principal spring, marked by a stone erected by the Company, is now a spacious basin with an islet, containing a monument to Myddelton, erected, in 1800, by Mylne, the architect and engineer. The dividend for the year 1633, which is believed to have been the first, was 15Z. '6s. ^d. A single share bequeathed by Myddelton to tlie Goldsmiths' Company, for charitable pur- poses, produces 900^. a year. The main of the New River at Islington was, it is said, shut down at the time of the Great Fire of London in 1666 ; and it was believed by some, who pretended to the means of knowing, that the supply of water had been stopped by Captain John Graunt, a papist. The story, however, it is reasonable to think, was a mere party invention of those heated times. One of the figures in Tempest's Cries of London, executed and published in the reign of James IL, carries " New River Water." Xll.-MAIN DRAINyfGE.-SEWERAGE. A new system oi Main Drainage for London was decided on in 1858, and begun 1859. A series of lai'ge sewers have been constructed on either side of the Thamop, at various levels, so as to intercept the sewage, and ^.revent it's pollu- ting the river in its passage thiough London. They dis- charge themselves by a general outfall channtl at Barking XXII. — TOWKR OF LONDON. 79 Creek on the left bank of the Thames, and at Erith Mai'shes on tlie light. The sewage of the low levels ivquires to be pumped up by steam-eiigiues into the ou'fall i-haiitiels, aud are previou-ly subjected to a proe-eis of dendorisiug. The estimated cost of executiug this exteusive design is three millions sterling. On the S. side of the Thames the high level channels (10 miles long) begin at Clapliam the low level (11 miles) at Putney, both uniting at Deptford Creek ; thence proceeding to Krith, 7 miles. On the N. or City side of tlie Thames, three sj'stcms of sewers, beginning at Hampstead, Kilburu, aud the river embank- ment, meet together ou the river Lea. The works at Bow Creek, below Blackwall, in bridges, aqueducts, culverts, and conduits, are ou the most stupendous scale. The ordinarj'- daily amount of Loudon sewerage discharged into the River Thames on the N. side has been calculated at 7,045,120 cubic feet, aud on the south side 2,457,600 cubic feet, making a total of 9,502,7-0 cubic feet, or a quantity eciuivaleut to a surface of more than 36 acres in extent and 6 feet in depth. Of the 9 squax'e miles of the Loudon district on the S. side, ^Aree miles are from 6 to 7 feet below high water- mark, so that the locality m.iy be said to be drained only for 4 hoiu-3 out of the 12, and during these 4 hours very imperfectly. Formerly the sewers emptied themselves into the Tliames at various levels. When the tide rose above the orifices of these sewers, the whole drainage of the district was stopped until the tide receded again, rendering the whole river side SN'stem of sewers in Kent and Surrey a succession of cesspools. Within the City of London alone, which is said to include about 50 miles of streets, alleys, and courts, there are 49 miles of sewerage. XIII.-TOWER OF LONDON. TOWER OF LONDON", the most celebrated fortress in Great Britain, stands immediately without the 'brmer City walls, on the left or Middlesex bank of the Thames, and " below bridge," between the Custom Huuse aud St. Katha- rine Docks. "This Tower," says Stow, "is a citadel to defend or command the City; a royal palace for assemblies or treaties; a prison of state fur tlic most dangerous offenders ; the only pl.ice of coinage for .all Engltind at this time; the armoary for warlike provisions; tlie treasury of the ornaments and jewels of the Crown; and general conserver of most of the records of the King's courts of justice at Westminster."— .Stoef, p. 23. 80 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON. Tradition has carried its erection many centuries earlier than our records : — " Prince. Where shall we sojourn till our coronation ? " Gloster. Where it seems best unto your royal self. If I may counsel you, some day or two Yoiir highness will repose you at tlie Tower. " Prince. I do not like the Tower, of any place. — Did Julius Ciesar build that place, my lord? " Buck. lie did, ray gracious lord, begin that place, Which since succeeding ages have re-editied. ^^ Prince. Is it upon record, or else reported Successively from age to age, he built it ? " Buck. Upon record, my gracious lord." Shahspeare, King Michard III., Act iii., sc. 1. " This is the way To Julius C'sesars ill-erected Tower." Shakspeare, King Sichard II., Act v., sc. " Ye towers of Julius, London's lasting shame, AVith many a foul and midnight murder fed." Gray, The Bard. Antiqitaries fail to confirm tradition in the remote antiquity assigned to the Tower. The oldest part of the existing structure is the Keep, or great white and square tower in the centre, called the White Tower, built by William the Conqueror (circ. 1078), the King appointing Gundulph, Bishop of Rochester, to be principal surveyor. The chapel in this Tower, long used as a Record Room, is one of the most complete remaining specimens of a Norman church, on a small scale ; massive with plain barrel vault and square piers. The Tower was formerly accessible by four gates : the Lions' Gate, on the W. side, where the lions and King's beasts were kept, still the principal entrance ; by the Water Gate, for receipt of boats and small vessels ; by the Iron Gate, a great and strong gate, but not usually opened ; and by Traitoi-s' Gate, a small postem with a drawbridge, fronting the Thames, seldom let do^vn but for the receipt of some great persons, prisoners. " On through that gate misnamed, through which before Went Sidney, Russell, Italeigh, Cranmer, More." Bngers's Human Life. It was also defended by a broad, deep ditch of water, long an eyesore and unwholesome, more like a sewer than the wet ditch of a fortification ; till it was drained and made a garden, as wo now see it, in 1843. The towers within the foi-tress are called the Lion Tower ; the Middle Tower ; the Bell Tower, said to have been the prison of Fisher, Bishop of Xlir. — TOWER OF LONDON. 81 R,ochester, and afterwards of Queen Elizabeth ; the Bloody Tower, so called from the sous of Edward IV., supposed to have bceu murdered there, and described by the Duke of Wellington as the best, if not the only good place of security, at the disposition of the officers of the Tower, iu which state prisoners can be placed ; * the Beauchamp, or Wakefield Tower, on the W. side, carefully restored in 1853 by Mr. Salviu, the place of imprisonment of Anna Boleyn, and scratched over with inscriptions cut by prisoners con- fined within its walls. It derives its name from Thomas de Beauchamp, Eai'l of Warwick, imprisoned in it in 1397 ; — the Develin Tower ; the Bowyer Tower, on the N. side, where the Duke of Clai-ence, it is traditionally believed, was drowned in a butt of Malmsey ; the Brick Tower, on the N.E. side, the prison, it is said, of Lady Jane Grey ; the Martin Tower, near the site of the Jewel House ; and the Salt Tower, on the E. side, containing the curious sphere, with the signs of the zodiac, &c., engraved on the walls. May 30th, 1561, by Hugh Draper, of Bristol, committed to the Tower in 1560, on suspicion of sorcery and practice against Sir William St. Lowe and his lady. It is much to be regretted that the several Towers, more especially the fine old Norman chapel in the White Tower, are not accessible to the public. The keeper of the Tower was called the Lieutenant of the Tower, whose lodgings were in the S.W. part of the building, to the left of the Bloody Tower. Opposite to the church, at the S.W. corner of the Tower G-reen, are " The Lieutenant's Lodgings," a structure of the time of Henry VIII., now the residence of the Governor. In a room of this house, called the Council Chamber, the commissioners met to examine Guy Favvkes and his accom- plices ; an event commemorated by a curious monument, constructed of party-coloured marbles, and with inscriptions in Latin and Hebrew. In another part of this building is an inscription carved on an old mantelpiece relating to the Countess of Lenox, grandmother of James the First, " com- mitede prysner to thys Logyngefor the Marige of her Sonne, my Lord Henry Darnle and the Queene of Scotlande." The present representative of the "Lieutenant" is called Constable of the Towei", an office held by the late Duke of Wellington. Visitois are conducted over the Tower armouries by the warders of tlie Tower, generally old soldiers, who wear the dress of the yeomen of the guard of the reign of Henry VIII. The entrance is by the gate UfXb Tower HHL where tickets must be bought at the Ticket-office, on your right as * Appemlix I, to Eighth Report of Dcpuiy Keeper of Public Records. a 82 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON, you enter, price 6d. for the Armoury, and 6d. for the Jewel- Louse each person. The warders conduct parties of twelve every half-hour from half-past 10 to 4 inclusive. The Horse Armoury is; coiitidiud in a handsome gallery 150 feet long by 33 feet wide, built in 18 26 on the south side of the VVhite Tower. The general assignment of the suits and arrangement of the gallery were made by the late Sit- Samuel Meyrick, of Goodrich Court, and author of A Critical Inquiry into Ancient Armour. The centre is occupied by a line of equestrian figures, 22 in number, cloibed in tlie armour of Various reigns, from the time of Edward I. to James II. (1272 — 1688). Each suit is assigned, for the sake of chrono- logy, to some king or knight, but none are known to have been worn by the persons to whom they are assigned, except in a ver^' few instances (such as Henry VIII. ; Dudley, Earl of Leicester; Henry, Prince of Wales; and Charles I.). Olserve. — In the centre of this gallery, suit of the time of Edwiird I. (1272 — 1307), consisting of a hauberk with sleeves and ciiausses and hood with camail ; the emblazoned surcont and baudric are modern : the spurs are prick-spurs. Suit of the time of Henry VI. (1422—1461); the back and breast- plates are flexible, the sleeves and skirt of chain mail, the gauntlets fluted, the belniet a solade armed wiifi a frontlet and surmounted by a crr-st. Suit of the time of Edwiird IV. (14[il — 1483) ; the vamidate or guard of the tilting-lance is ancient, the war-saddle is of later date. Suit of ribbed armour of the time of Richard III. (1483—1485), worn by the Marquis of Waterford at the Eglinton Tourna- ment. Suit of fluted armour, of German fabric, of the time of Henry VII. (1485—1509), the knight dismounted; the helmet is called a burgonet, and was invented by the Bur- gundiaus. Suit of fluted armour of the same reign ; the armour of the horse is complete all but the flanchards. Suit of damasked armour, known to have been worn by Henry VIII. (1509 — 1547); the stirrups are curious from their great size. Two suits of the same reign, called Charles Brandon, Duke of Suffolk, and Edward Clinton, Earl of Lincoln. Suit in central recess (behind you) of German workmanship, very fine, and originally gilt, made to com- memorate the miion of Hem-y VIII. and Katherine of Aragon. The badges of this king and queen, the rose and pomegranate, are engraved on various parts of the armour. On the fans of the genouilleres is the Sheaf of Arrows, the device adopted by Ferdinand, the father of Katherine, on his conquest of Granada. Henry s badges, the Portcullis, the Flcur-de-lys, and the Ked Dragon, also appear ; and on the edge of the Entrance Gate. 'D X & GROUND PLAN OF THE TOWER. A Lion Tower. B Middle Tower. C Bell Tower. D Lieutenant's Lodgings. E Bloody Tower. F Entrance to Armouries. G Salt Tower. H Brick Tower, — ^Ladv Jane Grey confitied in. I Bowyer Tower, — Duke of Clarence murdered in. K BeaucUamp Tower,— Anna Boleyn imprisoned in. L Entrance Gate. G 2 84 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDOK. lamboys or skirts are the initials of the royal paii", " H.K.," united by a true-lover's knot. The same letters similarly united by a knot, which includes also a curious love-badge foi'med of a half rose and half pomegranate, are engraved on the croupiere of the horse. Suit of the time of Edward VI. (1547 — 1553), embossed and embellished with the badges of Burgundy and Granada, and formerly exhibited as the suit of Edward the Black Pi-ince. Suit assigned to Francis Hastings, Earl of Huntingdon (1555). Suit actually worn by Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester, of the time of Queen EUzabeth; the Earl's initials, R. D., are engraved on the genouilleres, and his cognizance of the Bear and Ragged Staff on the chanfron of the horse. Suit assigned to Sir Heniy Lea (1570), and formerly exhibited as the suit of Wilham the Conqueror. Suit assigned to Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (1581), and worn by the King's champion at the coronation of George II. Suit of the time of James I., formerly shown as the suit of Henry IV. Suits assigned to Sir Horace Vere and Thomas, Earl of Ainindel, of the time of James I. Suit actually made for Heniy, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., richly gilt, and engi-aved with battles, sieges, &c. Suit assigned to George Villiei-s, Duke of Buck- ingham, the favourite of James I. Suit made for Charles I. when Prince of Wales. Sxiit assigned to Wentworth, Earl of Straflbrd. Richly gilt suit presented to Charles I., when Pi'ince of Wales ; this suit was laid on the coffin of the great Duke of Marlborough at his first interment in Westminster Abbey ; the face of the king was carved by Gi'inlLng Gibbons. Suit, ^vith burgonet, assigned to Monk, Duke of Albemarle. Suit assigned to James II., but evidently of Wilham III.'s reign, from the W.R. engraved on several pai'ts of it; the face was carved by Grinling Gibbons for Chai'les II. Observe, in other parts of the gallery, and in the cabinets, (ask the warder to show them to you,) suit of the time of Hemy VIII., formerly exhibited as John of Gauut's. Suit, " rough from the hammer," said in the old inventories to have belonged to Henry VIII. Asiatic suit (platform, north side) from Tong Castle, in Shropshire, probably of the age of the Ci-usades, and the oldest armour in the Tower collection. " Anticke head-piece," with ram's horns and spectacles on it, assigned in the old inventories to Will Somers, Henry VIII.'s jester, and probably worn by him. Ancient warder's horn of cai-ved ivory. Helmet, belt, straight sword, and scimitars of Tippoo Saib. Maltese cannon (of exquisite workmanship, " Philip Lattarellus, deliu. et sculp. 1773") taken by the French in 1798, and, while ou its passage from Malta to Paris, captm-ed XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON. 85 by Captain Foote, of the Sealiorse frigate; the barrel is covered witli figures in alto relievo ; in one part is the portrait of the Grand Master of Malta ; the centre of each wheel represents the sun. Q«ce/?. Elizahetii's Aiinoury is entered from the Horse Armoury by a narrow staircase, oi'namented with two coloured carvings in wood, called "Gin and Eeer," from the old buttery at Greenwich Palace, and a suit of armour, sent to Charles II. by the Great Mogul. This interesting room (recently cased with wood in the Norman style) is within the White Tower ; and the visitor would do well to examine the thickness of the walls (fourteen feet thick), and to enter the cell, dark and small, traditionally reputed to have been the prison of Sir Walter Raleigh. On your left (as you enter it) are three inscriptions, rudely carved in the stone (left open for inspection) by prisoners, in the reign of Queen Mary, concerned in the plot of Sir Thomas Wyatt. "He that indvreth to the ende shall be savid M. 10. K. RvDSOjf. Gent. Axo. 1553." " Be faithful vnto the deth and I wil give thee a crowne of LIFE. T. Fane, 1554." " T. CULPEPEB OP DARFOED." Observe. — Early shields hung round the walls. Two white bows of yew, recovered in 1841 fi'om the wreck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead in 1 545 ; they are fresh in appearance, as if they had been newly delivei'ed out of the bowyer's hands. Spontoon of the guard of Henry VIII. " Great Holly Water Sprincle with thre gonnes in the top," of the time of Henry VIII. The "Iron Coller of Torment taken from y« Spanj\ai'd in y* year 1 588." " The Cravat," an iron instrument for confining at once the head, hands, and feet. Match- lock petronel ornamented with the badges of Heniy VIII., the rose surmounted by a crown and the fleur-de-lys, with the initials H.R., and other devices. Partizan engraved with the arms of Sir Dudley Carleton, Viscount Dorchester, of the time of Charles I., and formerly exhibited as "' the Spanish General's Staff." Heading-axe, said to have been used in the execution of the Earl of Essex in the reign of Queen Eliza- beth. Block on which Lord Lovat was bclieaded, in 1746; Lord Lovat was the last person beheaded in this countrv : it was a neiv block for the occasion. Thumbikins, or thumb- screws. A Lochaber axe. Matchlock arquebuse, time of Henry VIII. Shield of the sixteenth century, with the death of Charles the Bold in high relief upon it. The cloak on which General Wolfe died before Quebec. Sword and belt of the Duke of York, second son of King George III. S6 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON, Do uot fail to examine with attention the cannon and other trophies without the walls of the White Tower, on the south side. Several of these interesting remains of earlj' gunnery were seriously damaged in the great fire of the 30th of October, 1841, in wliich the store- house of arms, built in the reign of William III., was burnt to the ground. — Observe. — No. 7, a chamber gun of the time of Henry VI. No. 17, a portion of a large brass gun of the time of Henry VIII., said to have belonged to the Great Harry, of which we have a representation in the curious picture at Hampton Court. No. 18, a gun of the same reign, and thus inscribed, " Thomas Seraeur Knyght was master of the King's Ordynance whan lohn and Robert Owen Brethren made thys Pece Anno Domini 1546." Iron serpent with chamber, time of Henry VIII., recovered fi-om the wTeck of the Mary Rose, sunk off Spithead, in 1545, Brass gun taken from the Chinese in 1842, and thus inscribed. "RiCHAED: Philips: made: this: Pece: An: Dni : 1(J01." Two brass guns, called " Charles " and " Le Temeraire," cap- tured from the French at Cherbourg, in 1758, bearing the arms of France and the motto of Louis XIV., " Ultima ratio regum." Large mortar employed by William III., at the siege of Namur. The Jewel-house within the Tower was kept by a particular officer called " The Master of the Jewel-house," formerly esteemed the first Knight Bachelor of England. The treasures constituting the Regalia are arranged in a glazed iron cage in the centre of a well-lighted room, with an ample passage for visitors to walk round. Observe. — St. Edward's Crown, made for the coronation of Charles II., and used in the coronations of all our Sovei-eigns since his time. This is the crown placed by the Archbishop of Canterbury on the head of the Sovereign at the altar, and the identical crown which Blood stole from the Tower on the 9th of May, 1671. — The New State Crown, made for the coronation of Queen Victoria ; a cap of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops of silver, and studded with a profusion of diamonds ; it weighs If lb. The large unpolished laiby is said to have been worn by Edward the Black Prince; the sapphire is of great value, and the whole crown is estimated at 111,900/. — The Prince of Wales's crown, of pure gold, unadoi'ued by jewels. — The Queen Consort's Crown, of gold, set with dia- monds, pearls, &c. — The Queen's Diadem, or circlet of gold, made for the coronation of Marie d'Este, Queen of James II. — St. Edward's staff, of beaten gold, 4 feet 7 inches in length, surmounted by an orb and cross, and shod with a steel spike. XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON, 87 The oi'b is said to contain a fragment of the true Cross.— The Royal Sceptre, or Sceptre with the Cross, of gold, 2 feet 9 inches iu length ; the staff is plain, and the pouiinel is orna- mented wiih rubies, emeralds, and diamonds. The fleurs-de- lys with which tliis sceptre was formerly adorned have been replaced by golden loav^es beru'ing the rose, shamroclc, and thistle. The cross is covered with jewels of various kinds, and has in the centre a large table diamond. — The Rod of Equity, or Sceptre with the Dove, of gold, 3 feet 7 inches in length, set with diamonds, &n. At the fop is an orb, banded with rose diamonds, and surmounted with a cross, on which is the fiL;;nre of a dove with expanded wings. — The Queen's Sceptre willi the Cross, smaller in size, but of rich workman- ship, and set with precious stones. — Tlie Queen's Ivory Sceptre (but called the Sceptre of Queen Anna Boleyn), made for Marie il'Este, cotisort of James II. It is mounted iu gold, anil terminated by a goMen cross, bearing a dove of white onyx. — Scejitre found beliind tlie waiiiscottiug of the old Jewel Office, in 1814; supposed to have been made for Q een .Mary, cou.sort of William III. — The Oib, of gold, C inches in diameter, banded with a fillet of the same metal, set with pearls, and surmounted by a large amethyst sup- porting a cross of gold. — The Queen's orb, of smaller dimensions, but of similar fashion and materials.— The Koh-i- Koor diamond, the p'ize of the army which conquered Laliore ; it belonged to Runjeet Singh. — The Sword of Mercy, or Curtana, of steel, ornamented with ^old, and pointless. — The Sworiis of Justice, Ecclesiastical and Temporal. — The Armill?e, or Coronation Biacelets, of gold, chafed with the ro>e, fleur-de-lys, and h:\rp, and edged with pearls. — The Royal S{)urs, of gold, used in the coronation cere- mony, whether the sovereign be King or Queen. — -The Auipulla for the Holy Oil, iu shape of an eagle. — The Gold Coronation Spoon, u-ed for receiving the sacred oil from the ampulla at the anointing of the sovereign, and supposed to be the sole relic of the ancient regalia. — Tne Golden Salt Cellitr of State, in the shiiiie of a castie. — Baptismal Font, of silver gilt, u-ed at the Ctji'isteuing of tlie Royal Children — Sdver Wine F.iuutaiu, presented to Charles II. by tiie corpo- ration ot Plymouth. Tiie Lion 'fuwir, containing the Tower Menaj:orii>. was one of the sights ot London from the time of Henry III. to the reign of William IV., (1534), vvh m the few animals that remained were removed to the Zoological Gardens iu the Regent's Park. A century ago the lions in the Tower were named after the reigning kings ; and it was long a 88 XIII. — TOWER OF LONDON. vulgar belief, " that when the king dies, the lion of that name dies after him ; " that the lions in the Tower were the best judges of the title of our British Kiags, and always sjmpathitsed with our sovereigns. The present Eefreshment- rooni, by the Ticlvet House, occupies the site. Einincnt Persons confined in the Tower. — Wallace, Mor- timer. — John King of France. — Charles, Dulce of Orleans, father of Louis XII., who was taken prisoner at the brittle of Agincourt. He acquired a very great proficiency in our language. A volume of his English poems, preserved in the British Museum, contains the earliest known representation of the Tower, whicli has often been engraved. — Queen Anna Boleyn, executed 1536, by the hangman of Calais, on a scaf- fold erected within the walls of the Tower. — Queen Catherine Howard, fourth wife of Henry VIII., beheaded, 1541-2, on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. Lady Roch- ford was executed at the same time. — Sir Thomas More. — Archbishop Cranmer. — Protector Somei'set. — Lady Jane Grej', beheaded on a scaffold erected withiu the walls of the Tower. — Sir Thomas Wyatt, beheaded on Tower Hill. — Devereux, Earl of Essex, beheaded on a scaffold erected within the walls of the Tower. — Sir Walter Raleigh. (He was on three different occasions a prisoner in the Tower; once in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, on account of his marriage, and twice in the reign of King James I. Here he began his History of the World ; here he anmsed himself with his chemical experiments ; and here his son, Carew Raleigh, was born.)- — Lady Arabella Stuart and her husband, William Seymour, afterwards Duke of Somerset. (Seymour escaped fi-om the Tower.) — Countess of Somerset, (for Over- bury's murder). — Sir John Eliot. (Here he wrote The Monarchy of Man; and here he died, in 1G32.) — Earl of Strafford. — Archbishop Laud.- — Lucj- Barlow, mother of the Duke of Monmouth. (Cromwell discharged her from the Tower in July, 1656.) — Sir William Davenant. — Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham. — Colonel Hutchinson, at the Restoration of Charles II. " His chamber was a room where 'tis said the two youns princes, Kinfc Edward the Fifth and liis brother, were murdered in former days, and the room tliat led to it was a dark great room, that had no window in it, where tlie portcullis to one of the inward Tower gates was drawn up and let down, under which there sat every night a court of guard. There is a tradition that in this room the Diike of Clarence was drowned in ,a butt of Malmsey ; from which murder this room and that joining it, where Mr. Hutchinson lay, was called the Bloody Tower." — Mrs. Hutchinson. (Mrs. Hutchinson was the daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, XIII. — TOWPni OF LONDON. 89 Lieutenant of the Tower, was herself born in the Tower, and, therefore, well acquainted with the traditions of the building.) — Sir Harry Vane, the younger. — Duke of Buck- ingham. — Earl of Shaftesbury. — Earl of Salisbury, temp. Charles II. (Whoa Lord Salisbury was offered his atten- dants in the Tower, he only asked for his cook. Tiie King was very angrj'.) — William, Lord Russell. — Algernon Sydney. — Seven Bishops, June 8th, 1688. — Lord Chancellor Jeffries, 1688.— The great Duke of Marlborough, 1692.— Sir Robert Walpole, 1712. (Granville, Lord Lansdowne, the poet, was afterwards confined in the same apartment, and wrote a copy of verses on the occasion.) — Harley, Earl of Oxford, 1715. — William Shippen, M.P. for Saltash (for saying, in the House of Commons, of a speech from the throne, by George I., "that tlie second paragraph of the King's speech seemed rather to be calculated for the meridian of Germany than Great Britain ; and that 'twas a great misfortune that the King was a stranger to our language and constitution." He is the "dowm-ight Shippen" of Pope's poems). — Bishop Atterbury, 1722. " How pleasing Atterbiiry's softer hour, How shone his soul unconquered in the Tn-n-cr!" — Pope. (At his last interview with Pope, Atterbury presented him with a Bible. When Atterbuiy was in the Tower, Lord Cadogan was asked, "AVhat shall we do with the man?" His reply was, " Fling him to the lions.") — Dr. Frcind. (Here he wrote his History of Medicine.) — Earl of Derwentwater, Earl of Nithsdale, Lord Kenmuir. Derwentwater and Keumuir were executed on Tower Hill. (Lord Nithsdale escaped from the Tower, Feb. 28th, 1715, dressed in a woman's cloak and liood, provided bj' his heroic wife, who remained behind in his place. The history of liis escape, contrived and effected bj' his countess, with admirable cool- ness and intrepidity, is given by herself in an interesting letter to her sister, — see Mahoii's " Historj' of England," vols. i. and ii.) — Lords Kilmarnock, Balmerino, and Lovat, 1716. (Tlic block on which Lord Lovat was bclicaded is pre- scn-ed in Queen Elizabeth's Armoury.) — John Wilkes, 1762. — Lord George Gordon, 1780. — Sir Francis Burdett, April 6th, 1810. — Arthur Thistlewood, 1S20, the last person sent a prisoner to the Tower. Persons murdered in. — Henry VI. — Duke of Clai'ence, drowned in a butt of Malmsey in a room in the Bo\vyer, or rather, it is tliought. Bloody, Tower. — Edward V. and Richai'd, Duke of York : their supposed remains (prcscn-ed 90 Xai. — TOWER HILL. iu a cenotaph in Westminster Abbey) were found in the reign of Charles II., while digging the fovmdation for the present stone stairs to the Chapel of the White Tower. — Sir Thomas Overbury. (He was committed to the Tower, April 21st, 1613, and found dead iu. the Tower on Sept. 14th following. The manner of his poisoning is one of the most interesting and mysterious chapters in English History.) — Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex. (He was found in the Tower with his throat cut, July 13th, 1638.) Persons horn in. — Carew Raleigh (Sir Walter Raleigh's son). — Mrs. Hutchinson, the biographer of her husband. — Countess of Bedford (daughter of the infamous Countess of Somerset, and mother of William. Lord Russell). The first stone of the Waterloo Barracks, a large build- ing of questionable style intended to serve as a barrack and armoury, loop-holed, and capable of defence, was laid by the Duke of Wellington, June 14th, 1845, on the north side of the White Tower, on the site of the Grand Storehouse, built by William III., and burned down in 1841. The prin- cipal loss by that conflagration was 280,000 stand of muskets and small arms, ready for use, with a few others of antique make, with flint locks. The Ordnance stores iu the Tower were estimated in 1849 at 640,023^. The area of the Tower, within the walls, is 12 acres and 5 poles ; and the circuit outside of the ditch is 1050 yards. The portcvillis, under the gateway of the Bloody Towei', wa-^, accordinu' to the Duke of Wellington, the ouly one remaining in England, in a state of repair, and capable of being used. The high ground to the N.W. of the Tower is called Towr mil. Here till within the last 150 years stood a large scaffold and gallows of tiuiber, for the execution of such traitors or transgressors as were delivered out of the Towex", or other- wise, to the sheriffs of Loudon for execution. Execiitl ns on Tower //tW.— Bishop Fisher, 1535. — Sir Thomas More, 1535. "Going up the scaflfolrl, which was .so woak that it was ready to fall, ho said hill riedly to tne Lieutenant, ' I pray ynii. Master Li(!utenint, see mo safe up, and for m^ coming down let me shift for myself.'"— lioper's Li/e, Cromwell, Earl of Essex, 1540. — Margaret, Countess of Shrewsburj', mother of Cardinal Pole, 1541. — Earl of Surrey, the poet, 1547.— Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley, tlie Lord Admiral, beheaded, 1549, by order of his brother the Protector Somerset. — The Protector Somerset, 1552. — Sir Thomas Wyatt. — John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Xorthumberland, 1553. — Lord Guilford Dudley, (husband Xlir. — THE CHURCH IN THE TOWER, 91 of Lady Jane Grey,) 1553-4. — Sir Gervase Helwys, Lieutenant of the Tower, (executed for his shai-e in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbiiry.) — Earl of Strafford, 1it is niosr endearing in social and domestic charities; but with whatever is darkest in human nature and in human destiny, with the savage triumidi of implacable enemies, with the inconstancy, the ingratitude, thi- cowardice of friends, with all the miseries of fpllen greatness and of blighted fame." — ilacnulay's IHkUii-i/ of Jiiii/laml, i.6'28. Eminent Persons irderred in St. Peter's Church. -Queen Aune Boleyn (beheaded 1536). " Her body was thrown into a common chest of elm-tree, that was made to put arrows in, and was buried in the chapel within the Tower before twelve o'clock." — Bishop Burnet. 92 XIII.^THE CHURCH IN THE TOWER. Queen Katherine Howard (beheaded 1542). — Sir Thomas More. " His head was put upon London Bridge ; liis body was buried in the chapel of St. Peter in the Tower, In the belfry, or as some say, as one entereth into the vestry, near unto the body of the holy martyr Bishop Fisher." — Cresacre iJore's Life of Sir Thomas More, p. 288. Thomas Cromwell, Earl of Essex (beheaded 1540). Margaret, Countess of Shrewsbui-y (Ijeheaded 1541). Thomas, Lord Seymour of Sudley, the Lord Admiral (beheaded 1549), by order of his brother, the Protector Somerset. The Protector Somerset (beheaded 1552). John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of Xorthumberland (beheaded 1553). " There lyeth before the High Altar, in St. Peter's Church, two Dukes between two Queenes, to wit, the Duke of Somerset and the Duke of Northumberland, between Queen Anne and Queen Katherine, all four beheaded." — Stow, by Howes, p. 615. Lady Jane Grey and her husband, the Lord Guilford Dudley (beheaded 1553-4). Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex (l^e- headed 1600). Sir Thomas Overbur}^, poisoned in the Tower, and buried, according to the register, Sept. 15th, 1613. Sir John Eliot died a prisoner in the Tower, Nov. 27th, 1632 ; his son petitioned the King (Charles L) that he would permit his father's body to be conveyed to Cornwall for interment, but the King's answer at tlie foot of the petition was, " Let Sir John Eliot's body be buried in the church of that parisli wliere he died." Okey, the regicide. Duke of Monmouth (beheaded 1685), buried beneath the communion-table. John Rotier (d. 1703), the eminent medalhst, and rival of Simon. Lords Kilmarnock and Balmeriuo (beheaded 1746). Simon, Lord Lovat (beheaded 1747). Colonel Gurwood, Editor of the "Wellington Despatches (d. 1846). Observe. — Altar-tomb, with effigies of Sir Richard Cholmondeley and his wife : he was Lieutenant of the Tower in the reign of Henry VH. Monument, with kneeling figures, to Sir Richard Blount, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1564), and his son and successor. Sir Michael Blount. Monument in chancel to Sir Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower (d. 1630), father of Mrs. Lucy Hutchinson. Inscribed stone on floor of nave, over tlie remains of Talbot Edwards (d. 1674), Keeper of the Regalia when Blood stole the crown. Here, in the lieutenancy of Pennington (the regicide Lord Mayor of London), one Kem, vicar of Low Lej'ton, in Essex, preached in a go^^^l over a buff coat and scarf Laud, who was a prisoner in the Tower at the time, records tlie circumstance, with becoming liorror, in the History of his Troubles, XIV. — CHURCHES — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 93 XIV.-CHURCHES. Of the 98 parish churches withui the walls of the City of London, at the time of the Great Fire, 85 were burnt clown, and 13 unburnt; 53 were rebuilt, and 35 united to other parishes. " It is observed and is true in the late Fire of London," says Pepys in his Diary, "that the fire burned just as many parish churches as there were hours frona the begin- ning to the end of the Fire ; and next that there were just as many churches left standing in the rest of the city that was not burned, being, I think, 13 in all of each." There is a talk of removing many of the City churches to localities with larger Sunday population. The following is the Yearly Value of some of the Church Livings in London : — St. Botolph's, Bishopsgate £ 1650 St. Giles's, Cripplegate 1580 St. Olave's, Hait-street 1891 St. Andrew's, Holboni 950 St. Catlierine Coleman 550 St. Bartholomew the Less, the lowest ... 30 Lambeth 1500 St. Jlaiyleboue 1250 St. Geoi'ge's, Hanovei'-square 700 St. James's, Westminster 1160 St. Martiu's-in-the-Fields 830 All Souls', Langham-place 850 St. Mary's, Islington 1155 St. Luke's, Chelsea 1003 The income of the Bishop of London is fixed at 10,000?. a-year. WESTMINSTER ABBEY, or the Collegiate Chdech op St. Peter's, Westminster, originally a Benedictine monas- tery — the " minster west " of St. Paul's, London. Here our Kings and Queens have been crowned, from Edward the Confessor to Queen Victoria ; and here very many of them are buried, some with and others without monuments. A church existed here in the days of King Offa. A new one WHS erected by Edward the Confessor about 1065. No part of the pi-esent church can be i>lentified with tliat, but there are remains of his building in the substructure of the Dormitory, or Chapel of tlie Pix, in the diH-k cloister south of the south transept. The oldest part of the present Abbey Church, the choir and transepts, date from the reiga of Henry III., and are early pointed in btyle. The four 94 XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBET. bays west of the transept are of Edward the First's time, and Early Dec. style; the remainder, to the west door, of the fift'enth century, built under Sir Richard Whittiugton, Lord Mayor, as Commission ei\ Dimensioiis. — Length, 416 feet, ditto of transept, 203 feet, ditto of choir, 155 leet; height from pavement, 101 feet 8 iuclies, height of towers, 225 feet. Henry VII. 's Chapel is late Perpendicular, richly orna- mented with panelling, &c. ; and the western towers, de- signed by AVren, are in a debased style of mixed Grecian and Gothic. The Abbey is open to jjublic inspection between the houi's of 11 and 3 generally ; and also in the summer months be- tween 4 and 6 in the afternoon. The Nave, Transepts, and Cloisters are free. The charge for admission to the rest of the Abbey (through which you are accompanied by a guide) is Qd. each person. The entrance is at the south transept, known as " Poets' Corner." The public are not admitted to view the monuments on Good Friday, Christmas Day, or Fast Days, or during the hours of Divine Service, viz., Suudayc?, at 10 a.m., at 3 p.m., and Evenhtg Service in tlie Kiive at 7 P.M , and daily at 7.45 a.m., 10 am., and 3 P.ir. About "JOOO people attend the Sunday services. The usual plan observed in viewing the Abbey is to examine Poets' Corner, and wait till a sufficient partj' is formed for a guide to accompany you through the chapels. If you find a party formed, you will save time by joining it at once. You can examine the open parts of the building afterwards at your own convenience. Observe, in (lie chapels, ; both by Sir Richard Westmacott. Terminal busts to Zachary Macaulay, father of the historian, and Sir James Mackintosh. Monument by Baily, R.A., to Vassall Fox, Lord Holland. Observe. — In south aisle of Choir, recumbent figure of William Thynn, Receiver of the Marches in the reign of Henry VIII. Good bust, by Le Scour, of Lord Chief Justice Richardson, in tlie reign of Charles I. Monu- ment to Tliomas Thynn, of Longleat, who was barbarously murdered on Sunday the 12th of February, 1682 ; he was shot in his coach, and the bas-relief contains a representation of the event. '■' A Welshman bragaiing of his familj', said his father's effigy was set up in Westminster Abbey : being asked whereabouts, he said, 'In the same monument with Squire Thynn, for he was his coacliman.' " — Joe Miller's Jests. Monument to Dr. South, the great di%'ine (d. 1716); he was a prebendary of this church. Monument, by F. Bird (in the worst taste), to Sir Cloudesley Shovel (d. 1707). Monument to Dr. Busby, master of Westminster School (d. 1695). * Honoi-ary monument to Sir Godfrey Kneller, with fine epitaph in verso by Pope. Honorarj' monument, hj T. Banks, R.A., to Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 1741), who was buried in Bunhill- fields. Bust, by Flaxman, of Pasquale de Paoli, the Corsican chief (d. 1807). Monument to Dr. Burney, the Greek scholar; the inscription by Dr. Parr. In Poets' Corner, occupj^ng nearly a half of the South Transept, and so called from the tombs and honorary monu- ments of Chaucer, Spenser, Shakspeare, and several of our * The word honorary, as here used, is meant to imply that the pei-son to whom the monument is erected is buried elsewhere. XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 105 greatest poets, Observe — Tomb of Geoffrey Chaucer, the father of English poetry (d. 1400); erected in 1555, by Nicholas Brigham, a scholar of Oxford, and himself a poet ; — Chaucer was originally buried in this spot, Brigham re- moving his bones to a more honourable tomb (a committee has been formed to restore this tomb). Monument to Edmund Spenser, author of the Faerie Queene ; erected at the expense of 'Anne Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomery,' and renewed in 1778 at the instigation of Mason, the poet ; ^Spenser died in King-street, AVestmiuster, " from lack of bread," and was buried here at the expense of Queen Eliza- beth's Earl of Essex. Honorary monument to Shakspeare ; erected in the reign of George II., from the designs of Kent ; — when Pope was asked for an inscription, he wrote : — ■ " Thus Britons love me, and preserve my fame, Free from a Barber's or a Benson's name." We shall see the sting of this presently : Shakspeare stands like a sentimental dandy. Monument to Michael Drayton, a poet of Queen Elizabeth's reign, erected by the same 'Anne Pembroke, Dorset, and Montgomcrj' ; ' the epitaph in verse by Ben Jonson, and verj^ fine. Tablet to Ben Jonson, erected in the reign of George II., a century after the poet's death. Honorary bust of Milton, erected in 1737, at the expense of Auditor Benson : " In the inscription," says Dr. Johnson, " Mr. Benson has bestowed more words upon himself than upon Milton ; " so in the Dunciad — " On poets' tombs see Benson's titles writ." Honorary monument to Butler, author of Hudibras, erected in 1721, by John Barber, a printer, and Lord Mayor of London. Grave of Sir William Davenant, with the short inscription, " O rare Sir William Davenant." (May, the poet, and historian of the Long Parliament, was originally buried in this grave.) Monument to Cowley, erected at the expense of the second and last Villicrs, Duke of Buckingham ; the epitaph by Sprat. Bust of Dryden erected at the expense of Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham. " Tliis Sheftiekl raised : the sacrod dust below Was Dryden once : the rest wlio does not know." — Poj^e. The bust by Schocmakers is very fine. Honorary monument to Shadwell, the antagonist of Dryden, erected by his son. Honorary monument to John Philips, author of The Splendid ShilUng (d. 1708), 106 XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. '_' When the inscription for the monument of Philips, in which he was said to be uni MUtono secnndus, was exhibited to Dr. Sprat, then Dean of Westminster, he refused to admit it; the name of Milton was in his opinion too detestable to be read on the wall of a building dedicated to devotion. Atterbury, who succeeded him, being author of the inscrijition, permitted ils reception. ' And such has been the cluuige of public opinion," said Dr. Gregnry, from whom I heard this account, ' that I have seen erected in the church a bust of that man whose name I once knew considered as a pollution of its walls." — Dr. Johnson. Monument of Matthew Prior, erected by himself, as the last piece of human vanity. " As doctors give physic by way of prevention, Mat, alive and in health, of his tombstone took care : For delays are imsafe, and his pious intention May haply be never fulfill'd by his heir. " Then take Mat's word for it, the sculptor is paid : Tliat the figure is fine, pray believe your own eye ; Yet credit but lightlv what more may be said. For we flatter ourselves and teach marble to lie." — Prior. The bust, by A. Coysevox, was a present to Prior from Louis XIV., and the epitaph, written by Dr. Friend, famous for long epitaphs : — " Friend, for your epitaphs I griev'd Where still so much is said; One half will never be believ'd, The other never read." — Pope. Monument to Nicholas Rowe, author of the tragedy of Jane Shore, erected by his widow; epitaph by Pope. Monument to John Gay, author of The Beggars' Opera ; the short and irreverent epitaph, L7fe is a jest, d-c, is his o\vn composition ; the verses beneath it are by Pope. Statue of Addison, by Sir R. Westmacott, erected 1809. Honorary monument to Thomson, author of The Seasons, erected 1762, from the proceeds of a subscription edition of his works. Honorary tablet to Oliver Goldsmith, by Nollekens; the Latin inscrip- tion by Dr. Johnson, who, in reply to a request that ho would celebrate the fame of an author in the language in which he wrote, observed, that he never would consent to disgrace the walls of Westminster Abbey with an English inscription. Honorary monument to Gray, author of An Elegy in a Country Churchyard (the verse by Mason, the monument by Bacon, R.A.). Honorary monument to Mason, the poet, and biographer of Gray (the inscription, it is said, by Bishop Hurd). Honorary monument to Anstcy, author of the Bath Guide. Inscribed gravestone over Richard Brinsley Sheridan. Hono- rary bust of Robert Southey, by H. Weekes. Inscribed gravestone over Thomas Campbell, author of the Pleasures of Hope, and standing statue by W, C, Marshall, R.A. XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 107 In that part of the South Transept not included in Poets' Corner, Observe — Monument to Isaac Casaubon (1614), editor of Persius and Polybius. Monument to Camden, the great EngHsh antiquary (d. 1623) ; the bust received the injury, which it still exhibits, when the hearse and effigy of Essex, the Parliamentary general, were destroyed in 1646, by some of the Cavalier party, who lurked at night in the Abbey to be revenged on the dead. White gravestone, in the centre of transept, over the body of Old Parr, who died in 1635, at the great age of 152, having lived in the reigns often princes, viz., Edward IV., Edward V., Richard III., Henry VII., Henry VIII., Edward VI., Maiy, Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I. Gravestone over the body of Thomas Chiffinch, closet-keeper to Charles II. (d. 1666). Monument to M. St. Evremont, a French epicurean wit, who fled to England to escape a government arrest in his own counti'y (d. 1703). Bust of Dr. Isaac Barrow, the divine (d. 1677). Grave- stone over the body of the second wife of Sir Richard Steele, the '■ Prue " of his correspondence. Monument, by Roubiliac, to John, Duke of Argjdl and Greenwich (d. 1743): the figure of Eloquence, with lier supplicating hand and earnest brow, is very masterly : Canova was struck with its beauty ; he said, "That is one of the noblest statues I have seen in England." Monument by Roubiliac (his last work) to Handel, the great musician, a native of Halle, in Lower Saxon j^, and long a resident in England (d. 1759). Honorary monument to Barton Booth, the original Cato in Addison's play. Honorary monument to Mrs. Pritchard, the actress, famous in the characters of Lady Macbeth, Zara, and Mrs. Oakley (d. 1768). Inscribed gravestones over the bodies of David Garrick and Samuel Johnson. Monument to David Garrick, by H. Webber, erected at the expense of Albany Wallis, the executor of Garrick. " Taking a turn the other day in the Abbey, I was struck with the affected uttitiule (if a figure wliich I do not remember to have seen before, and whicli, upon examination, proved to be a whole-lengtli of the celebrated Mr. Garrick. Tli"Ugli 1 would not go so far with some good Catholics abroad as to shut players altogetlier out of consecrated ground, yet 1 own I was not a little scandalised at the introdnctiou of theatrical airs and gestures into a place set apart to remind us of the saddest realities. Going nearer, 1 found inscribed under this harlequin figure a farrago of false thoughts and nonsense." — Charles Lamb. Inscribed gravestones over the remains of James Macpherson, translator of Ossian ; and of William Gifford, editor of Ben Jonson and the Quarterly Review. The painted glass in the Abbey will be found to deserve a cursory inspection ; the 108 XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. rich rose-wiudow in the North Transept is old ; the rose- window in the South Transept the worli (1847) of Messrs. Thomas Ward and J. H. Nixon. The wax-worli exhibition, or The Play of the Dead Volks, as the common people called it, was discontinued in 1839. The exhibition originated in the old custom of making a lively effigy in wax of the de- ceased — apart of the funeral procession of every great person, and of leaving the effigy over the grave as a kind of tempo- rary monument. On leaving the interior of the Abbey, you may visit the Cloisters, on the south side, walking through St. Marga- ret's churchyard, and entering Dean's-yard, by the gateway opposite Scott's Crimean monument. On the left of the Cloister doorway yo\i pass the Jerusalem Chamber, in which King Henry IV. died. " King Henry. Doth any name particular belong Unto the lodging wliere I tirst did swoon? " Wnrwick. 'Tis called Jerusalem, my noble lord. "King Henry. Laud be to God! — even there my life must end. It hath been lu-ophesicd to me many years, I should not die but in Jerusalem ; Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land : — But bear me to that chamber ; there I 'II lie ; In that Jerusalem shall Harry die." Shakspeare, Second Part of King Henry IV. Observe.' — In S. cloister effigies of several of the early abbots. In E. cloister, monument to Sir Edmundsbury Godfrey, murdered in the reign of Charles II. ; tablet to the mother of Addison, the i)oet ; monument to Lieut. - General AVithers, with epitaph by Pope. In W. cloister, monu- ment to Geoi-ge Vertue, the antiquary and engraver ; monument, by T. Banks, R.A., to Woollett, the engraver ; tablet to Dr. Buchan, author of the work on Domestic Medi- cine (d. 1805). In the E. ambulatory, " under a blue marble stone, against the first pillar," Aphra Behn was buried, April 20th, 1689 : and under stones no longer carrying inscriptions, are buried Henry Lawes, " one who called Milton friend ; " Betterton, the actor ; Tom Brown, the wit ; Mrs. Bracegirdle, the beautiful actress ; and Samuel Foote, the famous writer and comedian. At the S. E. corner of the cloister are remans of Edward the Confessor's buildings, including the Chapil of the Pl.v, where the instruments connected with the coinage of the realm, and the king's treasure itself, were kept in ancient times. A small wooden door, in the S. cloister, leads to Ashburnhnm House, one of Inigo Jones's best remain- ing works, and the richly-ornamented doorway in the E. cloister to XIV. — WESTMINSTER ABBEY. 109 The Chapte7--house (an elegant octagon, supported by mas- sive buttresses, over a Norman crypt), a tine example of Euglisligothic ; built in 1250 by Henry III. It was made over by the Convent of Westminster to the House of Com- mons in the reign of Edward III., and was given to the government in that of Edward VI., when it was made a repo- sitory for public records, not removed till 1860. It ought to be judiciously restored, and a design has been prepai-ed by Mr. (jr. G. Scott, which it is hoped may be thoroughly carried out. Besides its proper uses, it would afford spa'-e for new monuments to future great men, excluded from the body of the Abbey by want of room. The entrance is in Poets' Corner. Observe.— In 5 compartments on the E. wall, and not unlike an altar-piece, " Christ surrounded bj' the Christian Virtues," a mural decoration of the 14th century. There are later paintings of St. John the Evangelist, but poor. The floor of heraldic tiles is fine. The roof stood till 1740 ; Wren, it is said, i-efused to remove it. The following eminent persons are buried in Westminster Abbej^ (Tliose without monuments are in itahcs.) Kings AND Queens. — King Sebert ; Edward the Confessor ; Heniy III. ; Edward Land Queen Eleanor; Edward III. and Queen Philippa ; Richard II. and his Queen ; Henry V. ; Edward V. ; Henry VII. and his Queen ; Anne of Cleves, Queen of Henry VIII.; Edward VI.; Mary I.; Mary, Queen of Scots ; Queen Elizabeth; James I. and his Queeii; Queen of Bohemia, daughter of James I. and mother of Prince Rupert: Charles II.; William III. and Queen Mary ; Queen Anne; George II. and Queen Caroline. Statesmen. — Lord Chancellor Clarendon ; Savile, Lord Halifax ; Sir William Temple ; Craggs ; Pulteney, Earl of Bath ; the great Lord Chatham; Pitt; Fox, Canning, and Castlereagh. Soldiers. — Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke ; Sir Francis Vere ; Prince Rupert; Monk, Duke of Albemarle; William, Duke of Cumberland, the hero of Culloden ; Marshal Wade. Sea- men. — Admiral Dean; Sir W. Sprar/r/ ; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Sir Cloudesley Shovel. Poets. — Chaucer, Spen- ser, Beaumont, Ben Jonsou, Michael Drayton, Sir Robert Ayton, Sir W. Davenant, Cowley, Denham, Roscommon, Dryden, Prior, Congi*eve, Addison, Rowe, Gay, Macpher- son, who gave "Ossian" to the public, R. B. Sheridan, and Thomas Campbell. Actors.- — Betterton, Mrs. Oldfield, Mrs. JBracegirdle, Mrs. Cibber, the second Mrs. Barry, Henderson, and David Garrick. Musicians. — Henry Lawes, Purcell, Dr. Blow, Handel. Divines. — Dr. Barrow, Dr. South. Antiqua- ries. — Camden, Spelman, Archbishop Usher. Otuer Eminent 110 XIV. — ST. Paul's cathedral. Persons. — Mountjoy, Earl of Devonshire, of the time of Queen Elizabeth; the unfortunate Arabella Stuart; the mother of Henry VII.; the mother of Lady Jane Grey; the mother of Lord Darnley ; Anne Hyde, Duchens of York, the mother of Queen Mary and Queen Anne; the wife of the Protector Somerset ; the wife of the great Lord Burgh- ley ; the wife of Sir Robert Cecil ; the Duke and Duchess of Newcastle (the poet and poetess) ; Villiers, first Duke of Buckingham, and his two sons, the profligate second duke, and Francis, killed when a boy in the Civil Wars ; the iJuchesa of Richmond (La Belle Stuart) ; the second Duke of Ormond, and Atterbury, Bishop of Rochester, both of whom died in banishment ; Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham ; JJak- Imyt, who collected the early voyages which bear his name ; Sir Isaac Newton ; Dr. Busby, the schoolmaster ; Dr. John- son, the moralist and lexicographer ; Tom Ki/ligrew and M. St. Evremout, the English and French epicurean wits; Aubrey de Vere, the twentieth and last Earl of Oxford of the house of Vere ; and old Parr, who died (1635) at the great age of 152. "A Peerage or Westminster Abbey" was one of Nelson's rewards ; and when we reflect on the many eminent per.sons buried within its walls, it is indeed an honour. There is, however, some truth in the dying observation of Sir Godfi-ey Kneller — "By God, I will not be buried in Westminster ! They do bury fools there." ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL, the most marked feature iu the architecture of London, aud the noblest building in Groat Britain in the Classic style, stands on the site of a Gothic building to the same saint destroyed in the Fire of London. The principal approach to it is by Ludgate-hill, but it is too closely hemmed in by houses to be seen in detail to much advantage. The best general view of it is from the Thames, or Blackfriars Bridge. This is the Cathedral church of the See of London. Entrance at the N. door. Divine Service is pei-formed daily at 8 in the morning in the chapel; — at ^ before 10, and in the afternoon at ^ past 3 or 4 in the clioir. Since 1858 Evening Setvice is performed on Sunday, at 7 p m., under the dome, an area aflbrdiug seats for 30ii(t persons, while by the remo al of the organ fr m the opening of tho choir, the view extends from the west door to the altar. The doors are opened | of an hour before the beginning of each service. Visitors are admitted to inspect the whole building except during the time of Divine Service. XIV. — ST. Paul's cathedral. Ill COST OF ADMISSION. Whispering, Stone, and Golden Galleries Ball Libraiy, Great Bell, and Geometrical Staircase Clock Crypt— Welliiigtou's and Nelson's Monument s. d. 6 1 R 6 2 6 General History. — The first stone was laid June 21st, 1675. Divine service was performed for the first time Dec. 2nd, 1697, on the day of tliituksgiving for the peace of llj'swick, and the last stone laid 1710, 35 years after the first. It deserves to be mentioned that the whole Cathedral was begun and completed under one architect, Sir Christopher Wren ; one master mason, Mr. Thomas Strong; and while one bishop. Dr. Henry Compton, presided over the diocese. The whole cost, 747,954 Z. 2s. 9t/., was paid for by a tax on coals brought into the piort of London, and the Cathedral, it is said, deserves to wear, as it does, a smoky coat in consequence. Exterior. — The ground-plan is that of a Latin cross, with lateral projections at the W. end of the nave, in order to give width and importance to the W. front. Length from E. to W., 500 feet; breadth of the body of the church, 100 feet; campanile towers at the W. end, each 222 feet in height; and the height of the whole struc- ture, from the pavement to the top of the cross, 370 feet. Immense as the building looks and is, it could actually stand within St. Peter's at Rome. The outer dome is of wood, covered with lead, and does not support the lantern on the top, which rests on a cone of brick raised between the inner cupola and outer dome. The course of balustrade at the top was forced on Wren by the commissioners for the building. " I never designed a balustrade," he says ; " ladies think nothing well without an edging." The sculp- ture on the entablature (the Conversion of St. Paul) the statues on the pediment (St. Paul, with St. Peter and St. James on either side), and the statue of Queen Anne in front of tlie building, with the four figures at the angles, are all by F. Bird. The Phoenix over the S. door was the work of Cibber. The iron railing, of more than 2500 palisades, was cast at Lamberhurst, in Kent, at a cost of 11,202/. Os. 6r/., and encloses upwards of two acres of ground. Observe. — The double portico at the W. end ; the beautiful semicircular porticos, N. and S. ; the use of two orders of architecture (Composite and Corinthian) ; and the general breadth and harmony of the whole building. Interior, — The cupola, with the paintings upon it, is of 112 XIV. — ST. Paul's cathedral. brick, 108 feet in diameter, with stoue bandings at every rise of 5 feet, and a girdle of Portland stone at the base, contaming a double chain of iron strongly linked together at every 10 feet, and weighing 95 cwt. 3 qr. 23 lb. The gi-eat defect of the interior is its nakedness and want of ornament. Wren's first design of St. Paul's was planned essentially for the Protestant worship and service, and consisted of a large central dome, surrounded by eight minor cujDolas, prolonged to the W. by another cupola, and faced with a grand portico. This was rejected through the influence of the Duke of York (aftei'wards James II.), who insisted on having a church with the usual long nave and side aisles, adapted to the popish service. Sir- Christopher shed tears in speaking of the change ; but it was all in vain. The 8 paintings in the dome (by Sir James Thornhill), represent the principal events in the life of St. Paul. They have been restored. Dean Milman hopes also to obtain funds to cany out Wren's intention to deco- rate the cupola with the more durable ornament of mosaic. Observe. — In the choir the beautiful foliage, caiwed by Griuling Gibbons, and near the entrance to the choir, the inscription to Wren (si monumfntum REQUiras, circum- spice), put there by Mjdne, architect of Blackfriars Bridge. The oi'gan (1691) was constructed by Bernard Schmj-dt, the successful candidate against Harris at the Temple. The golden gallery was gilt at the expense of the Earl of Lanes- borough, the ''sober Lanesborough dancing with the gout" of Pope. Addison, in Spectator Xo. 50, makes the Indian King suppose that St. Paul's was carved out of a rock. 77te i¥o?i?," and is never used except for the striking of the hour, and for tolling at the deaths and funerals of any of the royal family, the Bishops of Loudon, tlie Deans of St. Paul's, and, should he die in his mayoralty, the Lord Mayor. The larger part of the metal of which it is made formed " Great Tom of West- minster," once in the Clock Tower at Westminster. Tke Library is not very valuable. Tke Whispering Gallery is so called, because the slightest whisper is transmitted from one side of the gallery to the other with great rapidity and distinctness. The Stone Gallery is an outer gallery, and affords a fine view of London on a clear day. Tlic Inner Gulden Gallery is at the apes of the cupola and base of the lantern. The Outer Golden Gallery is at the apex of the dome. Here you may have a still more exten>ive view of London if you will ascend early in the mornins, and on a clear daj'. The Ball and Cross stand on a cone between the cupola and dome. The construction is very interesting, and wid well repay attention. The ball is in diameter feet 2 inches, and will contain 8 persons, " without," it is said, " particular inconvenience." This, however, may well be doubted. The weight of the ball is stated to be 5600 lb., and that of the cross (to which there is no entrance) 3360 lb. The last public procession to St. Paid's (the funeral of the Duke of ^Vellington in 1852 excepted) was on Thursday, July 7th, 1814, when the Duke of Wellington carried the sword of state before the Prince Regent, on the day of general thanksgivmg for the peace. Haydn said that the most powerful effect he ever felt fi'om music was from the singing of the charity children in St. Paul's. Endeavour to attend at the festival held on the first Thursday in June, when the charity children of the metropolis are all collected under the Dome. St. Paul's Cliurchyard is an iri-egular circle of houses en- closing St. Paul's Cathedral and burial-ground. The statue of Queen Anne, before the W. front of the church, was the work of Francis Bird, a poor sculptor. Mr. Newbery's shop at the corner of St. Paul's Church-yard is occupied by Messi-s. Griffitli and Farrar, who deal, like their predecessor, in books for children. I 2 116 XIV, — ST. BARTHOLOMEW THE GREAT — ST. SAVIOUR. St. BARTHOLOMEW the GREAT, West Smithfield, in the ward of Farringdon Without, was the choir and transept of the church of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded in the i-eign of Henry I. (circ. 1102), by Rahere, " a pleasant- witted gentleman, and therefore in his time called the King's minstrel." This unquestionably is one of the most inter- esting of the old Loudon churches. There is much good Norman work about it, and its entrance gate from Smithfield is an excellent specimen of Early English with the toothed orna- ment in its mouldings. Parts, however, are of the Perp. period, and the rebus of Prior Bolton, who died in 1532 (a bolt through a tim), fixes the date when the alterations were made. The roof is of timber. At the W. end are parts of the transejrts and nave, in a later style of architecture, and woi'th examination. The clerestory is Early English. On the north side of the altar is the canopied tomb, with effigy, of Rahere, the first Prior of his foundation. It is of a much later date than his decease, and is a fine specimen of the Perp. period. Over against the founder's tomb is the spacious monument to Sir Walter Mildmaj^ Under-Cban- cellor of the Exchequer in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and founder of Emmanuel College, Cambridge (d. 1589). The biist (near Mildmay's monument) of James Rivers (d. 1641), is probably the work of Hubert Le Socui-, who lived in Bar- tholomew-close, hard by. The parish register records the baptism (Nov. 28th, 1697) of William Hogarth, the painter. In the market, just opposite St. Bartholomew's Gate, stood the stake at which the victims of Popish intolerance, during the reign of Bloody Queen Mary, were burned alive. See SillTHFIELD. St. SAVIOUR, Southwaek, was the church of the Priory of St. Mary Overy, and was first erected into a parish church by Heniy VIII. in 1510. After Westminster Abbey, St. Saviour's, Southwark, contains the finest specimens of Early English in London. Nothing, however, remains of the old church but the choir and the Lady chapel. The nave was taken down 1840, to the disgrace of the parish, without due cause, and the present misightly strvicture erected. The altar-screen in the choir (much like that at Winchester) was erected at the expense of Fox, Bisliop of Winchester (d. 1528), and bears his device, the pelican. The choir was restored in 1822, and the Lady chapel in 1832. In the reign of Mary I. the Lady chapel of St. Saviour's was used, during the Marian persecution, by Bishop Gardiner, (d. 1555), as a couii; for the trial of heretics. Monuments. — Efiigy of knight XIV. — ST. SAVIOUR. — THE TEMPLE CIIURCn. 117 cross-legged, iu uortli aisle of choir. To John Gower, the poet (d. 1402) ; a Perp. mouumeut, origiually erected ou the N. side of the church, in the chapel of St. John, where Gower founded a chautry. The monument was removed to its present site, and repaired and coloured iu 1832, at the expense of Gower, first Duke of Sutherland. " He [Gower] lieth under a tomb of stone, with his image also of stone over him : the liair of his head, aubiini, long to his shoulders but curling up, and a small forked beard ; on his head a chaplet like a coronet of four roses ; a habit of purple, damasked down to his feet ; a collar of esses gold about his neck ; under his head the likeness of three books which he compiled." — Stow, p. 152. Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester (d. 1626); a black and white marble monument in the Lady chapel, with his effigy at full-length. When St. John's chapel was taken down, his leaden coffin was found, with no other inscription than L.A. (the initials of his name). John Trehearne, gen- tleman porter to James I. ; half-length of himself and wife (upright). John Bingham, saddler to Queeu Elizabeth and James I. (d. 1625). Alderman Humble. Lockyer, the famous empiric in Charles XL's reign (d. 1672) ; a rueful full-length figure iu N. transept. Eminent Persons huricd in, and graves unmarked. — Sir Edward Dj-er, Sir Philip Sydney's friend ; he lived and died (1607) in Winchester House, adjoining. Edmund Shakspeare, "player" (the poet's youngest brother), buried in the church, 1607. Lawrence Fletcher, one of the leading shareholders in the Globe and Blackfriars Theatres, and Shakspeare's " fellow ; " buried iu the church, 1608. Philip Henslowe, the manager, so well known by his curious Account Book or Diary ; buried iu the chancel, 1615-16. John Fletcher (Beaumont's associate), buried in the church, 1625. Philip Massinger (the dramatic poet), buried in the chuixhyard, March ISth, 1638-9. The houses in Doddington-grove, Keunington, are built on the three-feet surface of earth removed from the "Cross-Bones Burial Ground " of St. Saviour's, Southwai'k. The TEMPLE CHURCH, a little south of Temple Bar, was the church of the Knights Templar, and is divided into two parts, the Round Church and the Choir. The Round Church (transition Norman work) was built iu the year 1185, as an inscription in Saxon chai-acters, formerly on the stone- work over the little door next the cloister, recorded, and dedicated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem ; the Choir (pure Early English) was finished in 1210. The restorations and alterations, made 1839-12, at a cost of 70,000^., amount- 118 XIV. — THE TEMPLE CHURCH. ing nearly to the re-constraction of the Choir, are in correct ]2th and 13th ceut^ taste. The monuments to several dis- tinguished men, architecturally out of place, were removed from the arcades in wliich they were first erected, and are now placed in the Triforium. Off tlie cork-screw stairs leading to it is a cell, for the bell-ringer, with a squ nt (lychnoscope) bearing upon the high altar. 06.>e)-?'e. — En- trance doorway (very fine) ; — two groups of monumental effigies, on the pavement in Eound Church, of Knights Templar, cross-legged (names unknown, at least very un- certain) ; the figure between the two columns on the S.E. having a foliage-ornament about the head, and the feet resting upon a lion, represents, it is said, William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke (d. 1119), Earl Marshal and Protector of England during the minority of Henry III. On the left of the altar is the monument of white marble, to the learned Selden (d. 1654; he is buried beneath); and in the Trifo- rium the tombs of Plowden, the jurist; Martin, to whom Ben Jonson dedicates his Poetaster ; Howell, the letter- writer (d. 1666). In the burial-ground east of the choir, lies Oliver Goldsmith. The place is undistinguished ; but a tablet erected in a recess on the north side of the Choir commemorates the circumstance. The Round of this church was used as a place where lawyers received their clients, each occupying his particular post, like a mei'chant upon 'Change. The incumbent at the Temple is called Master of the Temple, and was once an office of greater dignity and reputation than it is now. The learned and judicious Hooker, author of the Ecclesiastical Polity, was for six years Master of the Temple — " a place," says Izaak Walton, " which he accepted rather than desired." Travers, a disciple of Cartwright, the Non- conformist, was then lecturer ; and Hooker, it was said, preached Canterbury in the forenoon, and Travers Geneva in the afternoon. The Benchers were divided ; and Travers, being first silenced by the Archbishop, Hooker resigned, and in his quiet parsonage of Boscombe renewed the contest in print, in his Ecclesiastical Polity. In the S. W. angle of the choir is a bust of Hooker by Mr. Gatley, erected 1851, at the expense of the benchers. In this church Archbishop Usher preached the funeral sermon of the learned Solden. The organ was made by Father Sclimydt, or Smith, in honourable competition with a builder of the name of Harris. Blow and Purcell, then in their prime, performed on Father Smith's organ on appointed days ; and till Harris's was heard, every one believed that Smith's must be chosen. Harris employed Baptiste Draghi, organist to Queen Cathe- XIV. — ST. Helen's, bishopsgate street. 119 riue, "to touch his organ," which brought it into favour; and thus the two continued vieing with each other for near a twelvemonth. The decision at length was left to the noto- rious Judge Jefferies, who decided in favour of Father Smith. Smith excelled in the diapason, or foundation stops ; Han-is principally in the reed stops. The choral services on a Sunday are well performed, and well attended. Tlio Round of the church is open to all, but the Choir is reserved for the Benchers and students. Strangers are admitted by the iutroduction of a member of either Temple. The keys of the church are with the porter, at the top of Inner Templedaue. ST. HELEN'S, Bishopsgate Street, on the E. side of Bishopsgate-street Within, near its junction with Gracechurch- street, the church of the Priory of the Nuns of St. Helen's, founded (circ. 1216) by "William, the son of William the Goldsmith," otherwise William Basing, Dean of St. Paul's. The interior is divided into two aisles, of nearly equal pro- portions, with a small transept abutting from the main building. There is Lttle in the architectui'e to 'attract atten- tion, in general design or even in detail. The windows are irregular— the roof poor and heavy, but the monuments are old, numerous, and interesting. Observe. — Sir John Crcsby, Alderman (d. 1475), and Ann, his wife, the founder of Crosby Hall ; an altar-tomb, with two recumbent figures, the male figure with his alderman's mantle over his plate armour. — Sir Thomas Gresham (d. 1579), the founder of the Royal Exchange ; an altar-tomb, with this short inscription on the surmounting slab : — " Sir Thomas Gresham, Knight, buried Dec. 15th, 1579." This monument was never comi^leted, nor was there any inscription on the slab when Pennant drew up his account in 1790. Stow tells us that it was Gi-esham's intention to have built a new steeple to the church " in re- compense of ground filled up with his monument." — John Leventhorp (d. 1510), in armour; a brass. — Sir William Pickering, and his son (d. 1542, d. 1574) ; a recumbent fig\n'e of the father in armour, beneath an enriched marble canopy. — Sir Andrew Judd, Lord Mayor (d. 1558); a monument against the wall, with m de and female figures kneeling at a desk. This Sir Andrew Judd (who is here repres'^nted in armour) was founder of the Frje Grammar School at Tun- bridge, and of the Almshouses in the neighbourhood which bear his name. Tlic inscription is curious; but the name is a recent addition. — Sir Julius Csesar (d. 1G36), Master of the Rolls, and Under-Chancellor of the Exchequer, in the reign 120 XIV, — ST. PAXCRAS-IN-THE-FIELDS. of James I. : the same Six- Julius Caesar of whom Lord Claren- don tells the amusing story, " Remember Ca3sar." " His epitaph is cut on a Wack slab, in front of a piece of parclinicnt, with a seal appendant, by whicli lie gives his bond to Heaven to resign his life willingly whenever it should please God to call liim. ' In cujus rei testimonium manum meam et sigillum apposui.' " — Pennant. This monument was the work of Nicholas Stone, and cost 110/. — Sir John Spencer, Lord Mayor in 1594, from whom the Marquis of Northampton derives the Spencer portion of his name, Spencer-Compton, Sir Jolm Spencer bought Crosby House, and kept his mayoralty in it in 1594. — Francis Bancroft, the founder of the Almshouses which bear his name. " He is embalmed in a chest made with a lid, having a pair of hinges without any fastening, and a piece of square glass on the lid just over his face. It is a very plain monument, almost square, and has a door for the sexton, on certain occasions, to go in and clear it from dust and cobwebs." — Xoorthouck's Hist, of Land., ito, 1773, p. 557. ST. PANCRAS-iN-THE- FIELDS (old church) in the northern part of London, is an interesting little church enlarged by Mr. A. D. Gough. The burial-ground, of less than 4 acres, has been used as a place of sepulture for at least six centuries, and contains the remains of at least 20 generations. Tlie monuments deserve examination. Observe. — Against S. wall of chancel a tablet, surmounted by a palette and pencils, to Samuel Cooper, the miniature painter to whom Cromwell sat so often (d. 1672) : the arms are those of Sir Edward Turner, Speaker of the House of Commons in the reign of Charles II., at whose expense it is probable the monument was erected. In the churchyard, near the church door, and on your right as you enter, is a headstone to William WooUett, the engraver (d. 1785), and his widow (d. 1819). At the further end of the churchj'ard, on the N. side, is an altar-tomb to William Godwin, author of Caleb Williams (d. 1836), and his two wives; Mary Wolstonecraft Godwin, author of A Vindication of the Rights of Woman, the mother of Mrs. Shelley (d. 1797) ; and Mary Jane (d. 1841;. Near the sexton's house is a headstone to John Walker, author of the Pronouncing Dictionary of the English Language (d. 1807). Tlie several footways in this crowded churchyard are laid with fragments of broken tombstones, some perhaps of interest ; for here were bin-ied, as the register records: — Abraham Woodhead (d. 1678), reputed by some to have been tlie author of The Whole Duty of XIV. — SAVOY CHURCH. 121 Man. — Jeremy Collier (d. 172G), the writer against the im- morality of the stage in the time of Drydeu. — Ned Ward (d. 1731), author of the London Spy. His hearse was attended by a single mourning coach, containing only his wife and daughter, as ho had directed it should be in his poetical will, written six yeai-s before he died. — Lewis Theobald (d. 1741), the hero of the early editions of the Dunciad, and the editor of Shakspeare. In this church (Feb. 13th, 1718-19), Jonathan Wild was married to his third wife. ST. MARY LE SAVOY lies between the River and the Strand, and was the chapel of the Hospital of St. John the Baptist, in the Savoy, a palace so called, built in 1215 by Peter, Earl of Savoy and Richmond, uncle unto Eleanor, wife to King Henry III. It is a Perp. chapel, late and plain, with the exception of the ceiling, which is very rich and coloured, and is the only remains of the old palace. The E. end has been ornamented with tabernacle work, of which one niche remains ; but the greater part has been cut away to make places for modern monuments. It is now a precinct or parish church, and called (but improperly) St. Mary-le-Savoy. The altar window, recently glazed at the expense of the con- gregation, contains the figure of St. John the Baptist. Observe. — Recumbent figiu'e (size of life) of the Countess Dowager of Nottingham (d. 1681); but tliis monument, it is thought, is improperly named. Tablet to ]\Irs. Anne Killi- grew (d. 1685); Dryden wrote a poem on her death. Brass, on floor, about 3 feet S. of the stove in the centre of the chapel, mai'king the grave of Gawain Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld (d. 1522), the translator of Virgil. Monvmient by M. L. Watson, erected 1846, to Dr. Cameron, the last person executed on accoimt of the rebellion of 1745. Tablet, erected by his widow, to Richard Lander, the African traveller (d. 1834). Eminent Persons interred here without monuments. — George, third Earl of Cumberland, father of Lady Anne Clifford, died in the Duchy House in 1605 ; bowels alone buried here. George Wither, the poet (d. 1667), '"between the E. door and S. end of the church." Lewis do Diiras, Earl of Feversham (d. 1709); he commanded King James XL's troops at the battle of Sedgemoor. The meetings at the Restoration of Charles II. of the commissioners for the revision of the Liturgy took place in the Savoy ; twelve bishops appearing for the Established Church ; and Calamy, Baxter, Reynolds, and others, for the Presbyterians. This assembly is known in English history as " The Savoy Conference," Fuller, author of The Worthies, 122 XIV. — ST. Paul's, covent gardex. was at that time lecturer at the Savoy, and Cowley, the poet, a candidate at Court for the ofiBce of master. ST. PAUL'S, Covent Garden, on the W. side of the market, was built by luigo Jones, circ. 16.33, at the expense of the ground landlord, Francis, Earl of Bedford; repaired, in 1727, by the Earl of Burlington ; totally destroyed by fire, Sept. 17th, 1795; and rebuilt (John Hardwick, architect) on the plan and in the proportions of the original building. The parish registers record the baptism of Laijy Mary \Yortley Montagu, and the burials of the following Eminent Persons. — The notorious Robert Carr, Earl of Somerset (d. 1645). — Samuel Butler (d. 1680), author of Hudibras. He died in Rose-street. "He [Butler] dyed of a consumption, Septemb. 25 (Anno D'"' 1680), and buried 27, according to his owne appointment in tlie churcli-yard of Covent Garden ; sc. in the north part next the church at the east end. His feet touch the wall. His grave, 2 yards distant from the pilaster of the dore (by his desire). 6 foot deepe. About 25 of his old acquaintance at his funerall: I myself being one." — Aubrey's Lives, ii. 263. Sir Peter Lelj% the painter (d. 16S0). His monument, with his bust by Gibbons, and his epitaph by Flatman, shared the fate of the church when destroyed by fire in 1795. — Edward Kynaston (d. 1712), the celebrated actor of female parts at the Restoration ; a complete female stage beautj'. William Wyciierley (d. 1715), the dramatist. He died in Bow-street. ■ — Grinling Gibbons (d. 1721), the sculptor and carver in wood. — Susannah Ceutlivre (d. 1723), author of The Busy Body and The Wonder. — Dr. Arne, the composer of Rule Britannia (d. 1778). — Dr. John Armstrong, author of the Art of Preserving Health, a poem (d. 1779). — Sir Robert Strange, the engraver (d. 1792). — Thomas Girtin, the father of the school of English water colours (d. 1802). — Charles Mackliu, the actor (d. 1797), at the age of 107.— John Wolcot (Peter Pindar), d. 1819. In front of this church the hustings are raised for the general elections for Westminster. Here, before the Reform Bill, raged those fierce contests of many days' duration, in which Fox, Sir Francis Burdett, and others were popular candidates. ST. MARY LE BOW, in Cheapside, commonly called "Bow Church," is one of Wren's masterpieces. " >o otiicr modern steeple," says Ferg issou (vlodern Architecture), can Compare with this, either for beauty of ontliua or appropriate application of classical details." Observe. — The fine old Norman crypt : Wren used the arches of XIV. — BOW CHURCH — ST. BRIDE. 123 the old church to support his own superstructure. It is now a vault, and concealed in parts by 23iles of coffins ; the intei'ior is poor. The Court of Arches (an Ecclesiastical Court so called) derives its name from the arclied vault under Bow Church, in which the court was originally held — the church itself derives its name from its being the first church in London built on arches of stone. "Bow-bells" have long been and are still famous. " In the year 1469 it was ordained by a Common Council that the Bow Bell sliould be nightly rung at nine of the clock. Shortly after, .John Donne, mercer, by his testament dated 1472, gave to the parson and churchwardens two tenements in Hosier Lane to the maintenance of Bow Bell, the same to be rung as aforesaid, and other things to be observed as by the will appeareth. This Bell being usually rung some- what latn Victoria Cemetery, Tower Hamlets Cemetery, at Ilford, in Essex, the City of London Ceme- tery, Nunhead Cemetery, and Norwood Cemetery, both on the Surrey side. Woking, near Guildford, a station on 134 XV. — BUNHILL FIELDS. the S. W. Railway. Colnet Hatch, a station on the Great Northern Railway. Of these cemetei-ies, Highgate and Nor- wood will alone repay a visit. BUNHILL FIELDS BURIAL GROUND, near Finsbury Square, called by Soiithey " the Campo Santo of the Dis- senters," was first made use of as a pest-field or common place of interment diu'ing the Great Plague of London in 1665. It then lay open to the fields, and is the "great pit in Finsbury "' of De Foe's narrative. When the Plague was over, the pit was inclosed with a brick wall, " at the sole charges of the City of London," and subsequently leased by sevei'al of the great Dissenting sects, who conscientiously objected to the burial-service in the Book of Common Prayer. What stipulation was made with the Citj' is unknown, but here all the interments of the Dissenters from this time forward took place. Eminent Persons interred in. — Dr. Thomas Goodwin (d. 1679), (altar-tomb, east end of ground.) the Independent preacher who attended Oliver Ci'omwell on his death-bed. Cromwell had then his moments of misgiving, and asked of Goodwin, who was standing by, if the elect could never finally fall. " Nothing could be more true," was Good- win's answer. " Then am I safe," said Cromwell : " for I am sure that once I was in a state of grace." — Dr. John Ov.-en (d. 1683), Dean of Christ Church, and Vice-Chancellor of Oxford when Cromwell was Chancellor. He was much in favour with his party, and preached the first sei-mon before the Parliament, after the execution of Charles I. — John Bunyan, author of The Pilgrim's Progress, died 1688, at the house of his friend Mr. Strudwick, a grocer, at the Star on Snow-hill, and was buried in that friend's vault in Bunhill Fields' Burial-gi'ound. Modern curiositj' has marked the place of his interment with a brief inscription, but his name is not recorded in the Register, and there was no inscription upon his grave when Curll published his Bunhill Field In- scriptions, in 1717, or Strype his edition of Stow, in 1720. It is said that many have made it their desire to be interred as near as possible to the spot where his remains are deposited. — George Fox (d. 1690), the founder of the sect of Quakers; there is no memorial to his memory. — Lieut.-Gen. Fleetwood (d. 1692), Lord Deputy Fleetwood of the Civil Wars, Oliver Ci'om well's son-in-law, and husband of the widow of the gloomy Ireton ; there was a monument to his memory in Strype's time, since obliterated or removed. — John Duuton, bookseller, author of Ids own Life and Errors.— George Wliitehead, author of The Christian Progress of George Whitehead, 1725.— Daniel XVI. — WESTMINSTER HALL. 135 de Foe (d. 1731), author of Robinson Cinisoe. He was born (1661) in the parish of St. Giles's, Cripplegate, and was buried iu the great pit of Fiusbury, wlucli lie has described in his " Plague Year " with such terrific reality. His second wife was interred in the same grave (spot unknown) in 1732. — Susannah Wesley (d. 1712), wife of the Rev. Samuel Wesley, and mother of Jolm Wesley, founder of the people called Methodists, and of Charles Wesley, the first person who was called a Methodist. There is a head-stone to her memory. — Dr. Isaac Watts (d. 171S). There is a monument to his memory, near the centre of the ground. — Dr. James Foster, Pope's "modest Foster" (d. 1753). There is a monument to his memory. — Joseph Ritson, the anticpuiry (d. 1803), buried near his friend Baynes ; the spot unmarked. — William Blake, painter and poet (d. 1828); at the distance of about 25 feet from the north wall in the grave numbered 80 ; no monu- ment. — Thomas Stothard, R.A. (d. 1831), best known by his " Canterbury Pilgrimage," his " Robinson Crusoe," and his illustrations to the Italy and smaller poems of Rogers. In this cemetery, consisting of less than 4 acres, there have been interi-ed from April, 1713, to August, 1832, according to the registry, — in the earlier years, however, very imperfectly kept • — 107,416 dead bodies. [See Places of Burial of Eminent Persons.] XVi.-COURTS OF LAW AND JUSTICE. WESTMINSTER HALL. The old Hall of the Palace of our Kings at Westminster, well and wisely incorporated by Sir Charles Barry into his new Houses of Parliament. It was originally built in the reign of WilUam Rufus (Pope calls it " Rufiis' roaring Hall"); and during the refacing of the outer walls (1848-52), a Norman arcade of the time of Rufus was uncovered. The pi'esent Hall was built, or rather repaired, 1397-99 (in the last three years of Richard II.), when the walls were raised two feet ; the windows altered ; and a stately porch and new roof constructed according to the design of Master Henry Zenely. The stone mould- ing or string-course that runs rovuid the Hall preserves the white hart couchant, the favourite device of Richai'd II, The roof, with its hammer beams (carved with angels), to diminish the latei'al pressure that falls upon the walls, is of oak, and the finest of its kind in this country. Fuller speaks of its "cobweblcss beams," alluding to the vulgar 136 XVI. — WESTMINSTER HALL. belief that it was built of a particular kind of wood (Irish oak) in which spiders canuot live. It is raore curious, because true, that our early Parliaments were held in this Hall, and that the first meeting of Parliament in the new edifice was for deposing the very King by whom it had been built. The Law Courts of England, four in number, of which Sir Edward Coke observed that no man can tell which of them is most ancient, were permanently established in Westminster Hall in 1224 (9th of King Henry III.) ; and here, in certain courts abutting from the Hall, they ai'e still held, though there is a talk of removing them to Lincoln's- Inn-fields. These courts are the Court of Chancery, in which the Loi-d Chancellor sits, with a salary of 10,000?. a-year ; the Court of Queen's Bench, in which the Lord Chief Justice of the Queen's Bench sits, with a salary of 8000?. a year; the Court of Common Pleas, presided over by a Chief Justice, with a salary of 7000?. a year and the Court of Exchequer. The courts were originally within the Hall itself, and the name Westminster Hall is not rmfrequently used for the law itself The highest Court of Appeal in the Kingdom is the House of Lords, presided over by the Lord Chancellor ; and it sometimes happens that the judgments of the Law Courts in Westminster Hall are reversed in the Lords. The revenue of the Court of Chancery is derived from a Fee Fund yielding about 180,000?. a year, and a Suitor's Fund being the interest on about 3,800,000?., the property of .suitors (standing in the name of the Accountant General of the Court of Chancery), and yielding about 112,000?. a year. When Peter the Great was taken into Westminster Hall, he inquired who those busy people were in wigs and black gowns. He was answered they are lawyers. " Lawyers ! " said he, with a face of astonishment : " why I have but two in my whole dominions, and I behove I shall hang one of them the moment I get home." Let the spectator picture to himself the appearance which this venerable Hall has presented on many occasions. Here were hung the banners taken from Charles I. at the battle of Naseby ; from Charles II. at the battle of Worcester ; at Pi'eston and Dunbar ; and, somewhat later, those taken at the battle of Blenheim. Here, at the upper end of the Hall, Oliver Cromwell was inaugurated as Lord Protector, sitting in a robe of purple velvet lined with ermine, on a ricli cloth of state, with the gold sceptre in one hand, the Bible richly gilt and bossed in the other, and his sword at his side ; and here, four years latei-, at the top of the Hall fronting Palace- yai'd, his head was set on a pole, with the skull of Ireton on XVI. — WESTMINSTER HALL, 137 oue side of it aud tlie skull of Bradsbaw ou the other. Hei-e shameless ruffians sought cmploymeut as hired witnesses, and walked openly in the Hall with a straw in the shoe to denote their quality ; aud here the good, the great, the brave, the wise, aud the abandoned have been brought to trial. Here (in the Hall of Rufus) Sir William Wallace was tried and condemned ; here, in this very Hall, Sir Thomas More and the Protector Somerset were doomed to the scaffold. Here, in Henry VHI.'s reign (1517), entered the City appren- tices, implicated in the murders on " Evil Maj' Day " of the aliens settled in London, each with a halter round his neck, aud crying " Mercy, gracious Lord, mercy," while Wolsey stood by, and the King, beneath his cloth of state, heard their defence and pronounced their pardon — the prisoners shouting with delight aud casting up their haltei'S to tho Hall roof, '"' so that the Iving," as the chroniclei's observe, " might perceive they were none of the descreetest sort." Here the notorious Earl and Countess of Somerset were tried iu the reign of James L for the murder of Sir Thomas Over- bury. Here the great Earl of Strafford was condemned ; the King being present, aud the Commons sitting bareheaded all the time. Here the High Court of Justice sat which con- demned King Charles I., the upper part of the Hall hung with scarlet cloth, and the King sitting covered, with the Naseby banners above his head : here Lily, the astrologer, who was present, saw the silver toj:! fall from the Kiug's staff, and others heard Lady Fairfax exclaim, when her husband's name was called over, " He has more wit than to be here." Here, in the reign of James II., the seven bishops were acquitted. Here Dr. Sacheverel was tried and pronounced guilty by a majority of 17. Here the rebel Lords of 1745, Kilmarnock, Balmeriuo, aud Lovat, were heard and condemned. Here Lord Byron was tried for killing Mr. Chaworth; Lord Ferrers for murdering his steward ; aud the Duchess of Kingston, a few years later, for bigamy. Here Warren Hastings was tried, aud Burke aud Sheridan grew eloquent aud impas- sioned, while senators by birth and election, aud the beauty and rank of Great Britain, sat earnest spectators and listeners of the exti'aordinaiy scene. The last public trial iu the Hall itself was Lord Melville's in 1806 ; and the last coronation dinner in the Hall was that of George IV., when, according to the custom maintained for ages, aud for the last time probably, the ICing's champion (young Dymocke) rode into the Hall in full armour, and threw down the gauntlet, challenging the world in a King's behalf. Silver plates wei'e laid, on the same occasion, for 334 guests. 138 XVI. — OLD BAILEY — POLICE COURTS. This uoble Hall is 290 feet long, by 68 feet wide, and 110 feet high. It is said to be the largest apartment not sup- ported by pillars in the world — save one — the Hall of Justice, at Padua. The nest largest Hall in Loudon is the Hall at Christ's Hospital. THE OLD BAILEY SESSIONS HOUSE, or Central Criminal Court, in the Old Bailey, adjoining Newgate, for the trial aud couviction of prisoners for offences committed within 10 miles of St. Paul's, is regulated by Act of Parlia- ment, 4 & 5 Will. IV., c. 36. In the " Old Court " sit one or more of the judges in Westminster Hall. In the New Court the presiding judges are the Recorder and Common Serjeant of the Corporation of London. Upwards of 2000 persons, annually, are placed at the bar of the Old Bailey for trial ; about one third are acquitted, one third are first offences, aud the remaining portion have been convicted before. The stranger is admitted on payment of at least Is. to the officer whose perquisite it is, but this perquisite is regulated by the officer himself, according to the importance of the trials that are on. Over the Court-room is a Dining-room, where the judges dine when the Court is over — a practice com- memorated by a well-known line — "And wretches hang that jurymen may dine." Adjoining the Sessions House is the piison called " Newgate." [See Index.] The Metropolitan County Courts, holding a summary jurisdiction over debts and demands not exceeding 50?., are eleven in number. The judges are barristers apjiointed by the Lord Chancellor. The Bankruptcy Court is in Basinghall- street, in the City ; the hisolvent Debtors Court in Portugal- street, Lincoln's-Inu-Fields. CLERKENWELL SESSIONS HOUSE, the next in import- ance to tlie Old Bailey, was originally Hicks's Hall. The Law Court was removed hither in 1782. A fine James I. chimney-piece from the old Hall is one of the interior deco- I'atious of the House. The City Police Courts are at the Mansion House and Guildhall, where the Lord Mayor, or the sitting Alderman, are the magistrates who decide cases or send them for trial. The Police Courts connected with the Metropolitan Police are eleven in number, under the control of the Secretary of State for the Home Department, presided over by 23 Bar- XVI. — POLICE COURTS. 139 i-isters of at least seveu years standing at the bar. They sit daily, Sundays excepted. The Metropolitan Courts are — Bow-street, Clerkeuwell, Great Marlborough-street, Greenwich and Woolwich, Hammersmith and Wandsworth, Lambeth, Maryleboue, Southwark, Thames, Westminster, Worship- street ; and the amount of Fees, Penalties, and Forfeitures, levied and received by the Metropolitan Pohce in one year is about 10,000?. The expense of the Force is defrayed by an assessment limited to 8f/. in the pound on the parish rates, the deficiency being made up by the Treasmy. The Metropolitan Police Force consists of 6779 men, paid at various i-ates, averaging 18s. a- week, with clothing and 40 lbs. of coal weekly to each married man all the year ; 40 lbs. weekly to each single man during six months, and 20 lbs. weekly during the remainder of the year. The total cost for one year is 533,622/. Before 1829, when the present excellent Police Force (for which London is wholly indebted to Sir Robert Peel) was first introduced (pursuant to 10 George IV., c. 44), the watchmen, familiarly called " Charlies," who guarded the streets of London, were often incompetent and feeble old men, totally unfitted for their duties. The Police is now com- posed of young and active men, and the Force that has proved perfectly effective for the metropolis (having saved it more than once from Chartist and other rioters, and from calamities such as befel Bristol in 1831) has since been introduced with equal success nearly throughout the kingdom. The number of persons taken into custody by the two Forces, between 1844 and 1848 inclusive, amounted to 374,710. The gross total number of robberies, during the same period, amounted to 70,889, the value of the property stolen to 270,945^., and the value of the property recovered to 55,167/., or about a fifth of the propei'ty stolen. The Policemen are dressed in blue, and have marked on their coat-collar the number and letter of their division. The City Police marking is in yellow ; the Metropolitan in white. Every man is furnished with a baton, a rattle, a lantern, an oil-skin cape, and a gi'eat-coat, and carries on his right wrist a white band while on duty. It is estimated that each con- stable walks from 20 to 25 miles a day. During 2 months out of 3, each constable is on night duty, from 9 at night till 6 in the morning. 140 XVII. — INNS OF COtJP.T — THE TEMPLE, XVII.-INNS OF COURT AND INNS OF CHANCERY. INNS OF COURT, " the noblest nurseries of Humanity and Liberty in the kingdom," are four in number — Inner Temple, 3Iiddle Temple, Lincoln's Inn, and Gray's Inn. They are called Inns of Court, from being anciently held in the " AulaRegia," or Court of the King's Palace. Tlieir government is vested in " Benchers," consisting of the most successful and distinguished members of the English Bar — a numerous body, " comi^osed of above 3080 Barristers, exclusive of the 28 Sei-jeants-at-Law." No person can be called to the bar at any of the Inns of Court before he is 21 years of age, and a standing of 5 j-ears is understood to be required of every member before being called. The members of the several Universities, &c., may be called after 3 years' standing. Every student may, if he choose, dine in the Hall eveiy day during term. A bottle of '.vine is allowed to each mess of four. The TEMPLE is a liberty or district, divided into the Inner Temple and Middle Temple. It lies between Fleet- street and the Thames, and was so called from the Knights Templar, who made their first London habitation in Holborn, in 1118, and removed to Fleet-street, or the New Temple, in 1181. Spenser alludes to this London locality in his beautiful Prothalamion : — " those hricky toivers The which on Thames' broad aged hack doe ride, Where now the studious lawyers have their bowers, Tliere wliiloin wont tlic TempUir Kuiglits to bide, Till they decayed through pride." At the downfall of the Templai-s, in 1313, the New Temple in Fleet-street was given by Edward II. to Aymer de Valence, Earl of Pembroke, whose tomb, in Westminster Abbey, has called forth the eulogistic criticism of the classic Flaxman. At the Earl of Pembroke's death the propertj' passed to the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, by whom the Inner and Middle Temples were leased to the students of the Common Law, and the Outer Temple to Walter Staplcton, Bishop of Exeter, and Lord Treasurer, beheaded by the citizens of London in 1326. No change took jilace when the Temple property passed to the Crown, at the dissolution of religious houses, and the students of the Inns of Court remained tenants of the Crown till 1G08, when James I. conferred the Temple (now so called) on the Benchers of the two societies and their successors for ever. There are two XVII. — THE TEMPLE. 141 ediSces in the Temple well worthy of a visit : the Temple Church (serving for both Temples. See Churches), and the Middle Temple Hall. Middle Temple Hall, 100 feet long, 42 feet wide, and 47 feet high, was built in 1572, while Plowdeu, the well-known jurist, was Ti-easurer of the Inn. The roof is the best piece of Elizabethan architecture in London, and will well repay inspection. The screen, in the Renaissance style, is said to have been formed in exact imitation of the Strand front of old Somerset House, but this is a ■vailgar error, like the tradition which relates that it was made of the spoils of the Spanish Armada, the records of the Society proving that it was set up thirteen years before the Armada put to sea. Here are marble busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell,byBehnes. The portraits are chiefly copies, and not good. The exterior was cased with stone, in wretched taste, in 1757. Wc first hear of Shakspearo's Twelfth Night in connexion with its performance in this fine old Hall. The principal entrance to the Middle Temple is by a heavy red-brick front in Fleet-street with stone dressings, built, in 1684, by Sir C Wren, in place of the old portal which Sir Amias Paulet, while Wolsey's prisoner in the gate-house of the Temple, " had re-edified very sumptuously, garnishing the same," says Cavendish, "on the outside thereof, with cai-diual's hats and arms, and divers other devices, in so glorious a sort, that ho thought thereby to have appeased his old unkind displeasure." The New Paper Buildings, to the river, built from the designs of Sj'dney Smirke, A.R.A., are in excellent taste, recalling the "iDricky towers " of Spenser's Prothalamion. Inner Temple Hall was refaced and repaired by Sir Robert Smirke while Jekyll, the wit, was Treasurer of the Inn. Shakspeare has made the Temple Gardens — a fine open space, fronting the Thames — the place in which the dis- tinctive badges (the white rose aiad red rose) of the houses of York and Lancaster were first assumed by their respective partisans. "Suffolk. Within the Temple Hall wo were too loud; The garden here is more convenient. " Flanta//fnet. Let him that is a true-born gentleman. And stands upon the honour of his birth, If he suppose that I have pleaded truth, From oil" this brier pluck a white rose with me. " Somerset. Let him that is no coward, nor no flatterer, But dare maintain the party of the truth, Pluck a red rose from off this thorn witli me. 142 XVII. — Lincoln's inn. " Plantagenet. Hath not thy rose a canker, Somerset? "Somerset. Hath not thy rose a thorn, Plantagenet? " Warwick. This brawl to-day, Grown to this faction in the Temple Gardens, Shall send, between the red rose and the white, A thousand souls to death and deadly ni'^ht." Shalcspeare, First Part of Henry VI., Act ii., sc. 4. It would now be impossible to revive the scene in the sup- posed place of its origin, for sucli is the smoke and foul air of London, that the commonest and hardiest kind of rose has long ceased to put forth a bud in the Temple Gardens. In the autumn, however, a fine display of C'hrysnntheniitms, reared with great care, may be seen in them. The Temple is walled in on every side, and protected with gates. There is no poor-law within its precinct. The Cloisters, adjoining the Temple Church, were rebuilt by Sir Christopher Wren for students to walk in, and put cases in law for the consi- deration of one anothei'. In No. 1, Inner-Temple-lane Dr. Johnson had chambers, and here Boswell paid his first visit after his memorable introduction to him at Tom Davies's. The house was pulled down in 1858. In No. 2, Brick-court, Middle-Temple-lane, up two pair of stairs, for so Mr. Filby, his tailor, describes him, lived and died Oliver Goldsmith : his rooms were on the right hand as you ascend tlie staircase. The great Earl of Mansfield, when Mr. Murray, had chambera in No. 6, King's-Bench-walk. LINCOLN'S INN is an Inn of Coiirfc, with two Inns of Chancery attached, Furnival's Inn and Thavies' Inn, and so called after Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln (d. 1312), whose town-house, or inn, occupied a considerable jiortion of the pi-esent Inn of Court, whicli bears both his name and arms, and whose monument in old St. Paul's was one of the state- liest in the church. The Gatehouse of brick in Chancery-lane (the oldest part of the existing building) was built by Sir Thomas Lovell, and bears the date upon it of 1518. The chambers adjoining are of a somewhat later period, and it is to this part perhaps that Fuller alludes when he says that — " He [Ben Jonson] helped in the building of the new stiiicture of Lincoln's Inn, when, having a trowel in one hand, he had a book in his pocket." In No. 24, in the south angle of the great court leading out of Chancery-lane, formerly called the Gatehouse-court, but now Old-buildings, and in the apart- ments on the left hand of the ground-floor, Oliver Cromwell's secretary, Thurloe, had chambers from 1645 to 1659. Crom- well must often have been here ; and here, by the "merest XVII. — Lincoln's inn. 143 accident, long after Thurloe's death, the Thiivloe Papers were accidentally discovered, concealed in a false ceiling. Lincoln's Inn Chapel, in the Perp. style of Gothic, but much debased, was built by Inigo Jones, and conseci-ated on Ascension Day, 1623, Dr. Donne preaching the consecration sei-mon. The Roman Doric pilasters, creeping up the sides of the bastard Gothic of the crypt, deserve attention. The stained glass windows (very good for the period) were exe- cuted "by Mr. Hall, a glass-painter, in Fetter-lane, and in point of colour are as rich as the richest Decorated gla-ss of the best period." Some of the figures will repay attention. The windows on the S. side are filled with the Twelve Apos- tles ; on the N. by Moses and the Prophets, St. John the Baptist and St. Paul. The St. John the Baptist was executed, as an inscription in the window records, at the expense of William Noy (d. 1634), the Attorney-General of Charles I. The crypt beneath the chapel on open arches, like the cloisters in the Temple, was built as a place for the students and lawyers " to walk in and talk and confer their learnings." The Round part of the Temple Church was long employed for a similar purpose. Butler and Pepys allude to this custom. Here were buried Alexander Brome, the Cavalier song-writer ; Secretary Thurloe ; and William Prynnc, the Puritan, who wrote against the " unloveliness of love locks." On the stair is a marble tablet to the only daughter of Lord Brougham : the inscription by Marq. Wellesley. The most eminent divines of the Church of England are chosen by the Benchers to preach before them on Sundays. Lincoln's Inn Hall and Library, on the E. side of Lincolu's-Inn-fields (Philip Hardwick, R.A., architect), is a noble structure in the Tudor style, built, 1843-45, of red brick with stone dressings. The Hall is 120 ft. long, 45 ft. wide, and 62 ft. high, with a roof of carved oak. The total cost exceeded 55,000^. Observe. — In the Hall, Watts' grand fresco— The School of Legislation, occupying the whole N. wall, represents the lawgivers of the world, from Moses down to Edward I. — 30 figures, chiefly colossal. Above are Religion, with Mercy and Justice on either hand ; below, in the centre, Moses ; on left, Miiios, Lycutgus, Draco, Solon, Nuiua ; right, Sesostris, Zoroaster, Pythagoras, Confucius, and Menu ; 3rd row, iu centre, Justinian and Tlieodora dic- tating the Pandects ; next Charlemagne ; near him a Diiud priest; ina, King of the W. Saxons, and Alfred, ascending the steps. On the lowest step Stephen Langton and two other of the Magna Charta Barons, and Edward I. in aiTnour, seated. In the Hall hangs Hogarth's picture of Paul before 144 XVII. — grat's ixn. Felix, paiuted for the Benchers on the recommendation of the great Lord Mansfield, as the appropriation of a legacy to the Inn of 200?. ; statue of Lord Erskiue, by Sir R. West- macott, R.A. Observe in Drawing-room, &c., portraits of Sir Matthew Hale, by Wiight ; Lord Chancellor Bathurst, by Sir N. Dance ; and Sir William Grant, Master of the Rolls, by Harloice. The Library contains the unique fourth volume of Pryune's Records, for which the Society paid 335?. at the Stowe sale in 1849 ; and the rich collection of Books and MSS., the bequest of Sir Matthew Hale, " a treasui'e," says Hale, in Ms will, "that are not fit for evexy nlffh's Tiew." The Court of Chanceiy sits in "Term Time" at AVestminster ; during the " Vacation " in Lincoln's Inn Old Hall, a mean building near the Chapel. Lincoln's Inn New Square (built on Little Lincoln's-Inn- fields) forms no part of the Inn of Court called Lincoln's Inn. GRAY'S INN is an Inn of Court, with two Inns of Chancery attached, Staple Inn and BarnarcVs Inn, and is so called after Edmund, Lord Gray of Wilton, of the time of Henry VII. The Hall was buUt in 1560, and the Gardens first planted about 1600. The great Lord Burghley and the gi-eat Lord Bacon, who dates the dedication of his Essays "from my chamber at Graies Inn, this 30 of Januarie, 1597," are the chief worthies of the Inn. Bradshaw, who sat as president at the trial of Charles I., was a bencher of the Inn. Grays Inn Walks, or Gray's Inn Gardens, were in Charles II.'s time, and the days of the Tatler and Spectator, a fashionable promenade on a summer evening. The great Lord Bacon is said to have planted some of the trees, but none now exist coeval with his time. As late as 1754 there was still in the gardens an octagonal seat, erected by Lord Bacon when Solicitor-Geuei'al, to his friend Jeremiah Eettenham, of this Inn. The principal entrance from Holbom was by Fulwood's-rents, then a fashionable loca- lity, now the squalid habitation of the poorest people of the Parish of St. Andrew. "Within Gray's Inn Gate, next Gray's Inn Lane," Jacob Tonson first kept shop. The first turning on the right (as you walk from Holborn up Gray's- Inn-lanc) is Fox-court, in which, on the 16th of January, 169G-7, at 6 o'clock in the morning, the Countess of Maccles- field was delivered, wearing a mask all the whUe, of Richard Savage, the poet. The only toast ever publicly drunk by the Society of Gray's Inn is, " To the glorious, pious, and immortal memory of Queen Elizabeth." XVII.— Clement's inn. 145 The INNS OF CHANCERY, attached to the four Inns of Court, are nine iu number. To the Inner Temple belonged Cliflbrd's Inn, Clement's Inn, and Lyon's Inn ; to the Middle Temple, New Inn and Strand Inn ; to Lincohi's Inn, Furnival's Inn and Thavies' lun ; and to Gray's Inn, Staple Inn and Barnard's Inn, They have now little or no connexion with the Inns of Court. Harrison, the i-egicide, was a clerk in the office of Thomas Houlkcr, an attorney in Clifford's Inn, Justice Shallow was a student of Clement's Inn. " Shallow. I was once of Clement's Inn ; where I think they will talk of mad Shallow yet. " Silencf. You were called lusty Shallow then, cousin, " Shalloif. By the mass, I was called anything; and I would h.ave done anj-thing indeed, and roundly too. There was I and Little John Doit of Staffordshire, and Black George Barnes of Staffordshire, and Francis Pickhone and Will Squele, a Cotswold man ; you had not four such swinge-bucklcrs in all the Inns of Court again. " Shallow. Nay, she must be old ; she cannot choose but be old ; certain she's old, and had Robin Nightwork by old Nightwork, before I came to Clement's Inn. "Shallow. I remember at Mile-end-green (when 1 lay at Clement's Inn), I was then Sir Dagouet in Arthur's show. " Fdlstaff. I do remember him at Clement's Inn, like a man made after supper of a cheese-paring." — Shakspeare, Second Part of Htnry IV. "Withowt St. Clement's Inn back dore, as soon as you come up the steps and owt of that house and dore on your left hand two payre of stayres, into a little passage right be- foi'e you," lived Wenceslaus Hollar, the engraver. The black figure kneeling in the garden of Clement's Inn was presented to the Inn by Holies, Earl of Clare, but when or by what earl no one has told us. It was brought from Italy, and is said to be of bronze. William Woare, murdered by Thurtell, at Gill's-hill, in Hertfordshire, lived at No. 2 in Lyon's Inn. " They cut his throat from ear to car, His brains they batter'd in ; His name was Mr. William Wearc, He dwelt in Lyon's Inn." Contemporary Ballad, attributed to Theodore Hook, Isaac Reed (d. 1807) had chambers at No. 11, Staj^lo Inn, Holboru. T. 146 XVIII. — NEWGATE. The yearly rental of the Inns and Court of Chancery is in round numbers as follows : — . . £1,653 81S 423 1,646 . . 1,600 Lincoln's Inn £33,329 Clement's Inn Inner Temple . 25,676 Clifford's Inn . Gray's Inn . 16,035 Lyon's Inn Middle Temple 12,640 Xew Inn . Furnival's Inn . 4,386 Sergeant's Inn Staple Inn 2,553 Barnard's Inn . 1,031 £101,79 XVIII.-PRISONS, PENITENTIARIES, AND PLACES OF PUBLIC EXECUTION. NEWGATE, in the Old Bailey, is a prison appertaining to tlie city of London and county of Middlesex, formerly for felons and debtors ; since 1815 (when ^Miitocross-street Prison was built) for felons onlj', and is now used as the gaol for the confinement of prisoners from the meti'opolitan counties, preparatory to their trial at the Central Criminal Court in the Old Bailey. It is the oldest prison in London, was so called because it was the tower of a gate of the same name. In old Newgate were confined William Peun, Titus Gates, Defoe, Dr. Dodd, Jack Sheppard, &c. The present edifice was designed by George Dance, the architect of the Mansion House, and the first stone laid by Alderman Beck- ford, 1770. The works advanced but slowly, for in 1780, when the old prison was burnt to the ground in the Lord George Gordon riots of that year, the new prison was only in part completed. More rapid progi'ess was made in con- sequence of this event, and on December 9th, 1783, the first execution took place before its walls, the last at Tybui'u occurring November 7th. At an execution the prisoner walks forth to death through the door nearest Newgate- street to the scaffold erected over the broadest part of the Old Bailey. The interior was rebuilt 1858, on the cellular system. The prison will hold 192 persons. Here, in the prison he had emptied and set in flames, Loi-d George Gordon, the leader of the riots of 1780, died (1793) of the gaol distemper, and in front of this prison Bellingham was executed (1812) for the murder of Mi-. Perceval, the Prime Minister. Admission to inspect the interior is granted by the Secretary of State for the Home Department, the Lord Mayor, and Sheriffs. Obsci-ve. — Opposite this prison, No. 68, Old Bailey, the residence of Jonathan Wild, the famous thief and thief-taker; immediately behind his house is a good specimen of the old wall of London. XVIII. — BRIDEWELL — HORSEMONGER-LANE GAOL. 147 BRIDEWELL — formerly a city prison, situated in Bridge- street, Blackfriars, immediately behind the churcli of iSt. Bride, Fleet-street, has stood empty for some years, since the erection of the City House of Correction at Holloway ; and is to be pulled down, it is !=aid. It derives its name fi-om a manor or house, presented to the City of London by Edward VI., after a sermon by Bishop Ridley, who begged it of the King as a Workhouse for the poor, and a House of Correc- tion " for the strumpet and idle person, for the rioter that consimieth all, and for the vagabond that will abide in no place." Over the chimney in the Court-room hung a large picture, said to be by Holbein, representing Edward VI. delivering the Charter of Endowment to the Mayor, so much over-painted as to have lost all traces of Holbein. HORSEMONGER LANE GAOL, Hoesemonger Lane, SouTUWARK, is the county gaol for Surrey. Here Mr. Leigh Hunt was confined for two years (1812-14) for a libel ou the Prince Regent in the Examiner newspaper, and here (Nov. 13th, 1849) Mr. and Mi's. Manning were hung. The place of execu- tion is the top of the prison. " I was a witness,"says Mr. Charles Dickens, " of the execution. I went there with the intention of observing the crowd gathered to behold it, and I had excel- lent opportunities of doing so, at intervals all through the nigh, and continuously from daybreak until after the spectacle was over. I believe that a sight so inconceivably awful as the wickedness and levity of the immense crowd collected at that execution could be imagined bj' no man, aud could be presented in no heathen land under the sun. The horrors of the gibbet aud of the crime which brought the wi'etched murderers to it, faded in my mind before the atrocious bearing, looks and language, of the assembled spectators. When I came upon the scene at midnight, the shrillness of the cries and howls that were raised from time to time, denoting that they came from a concourse of boys and girls already assembled in the best places, made my blood run cold. As the night went on, screeching, and laughing, and yelling in strong chorus of parodies on Negro melodies, with substitutions of ' Mrs. Manning ' for ' Susannah ' and the like were added to these. When the day dawned, thieves, low prostitutes, niffians and vagabonds of every kind, flocked on to the ground, with every variety of offensive and foul behaviour. Fightings, faintings, whistlings, imitations of Punch, biiital jokes, tumultuous demoostratious of indecent delight when swooning women were dragged out of the crowd by the police ■with their dresses disordered, gave a new zest L 2 148 XVin. — MILLBANK PRISOI^. to the genei'al entertainment. When the sun rose brightly — as it did — it gilded thousands upon thousands of upturned faces, so inexpressibly odious in their biiital mii'th or cal- lousness, that a man had cause to feel ashamed of the shape he wore, and to shrink from himself, as fashioned in the image of the Devil. When the two miserable creatures who attracted all this ghastly sight about them were turned quivering into the air, there was no more emotion, no more pity, no more thought that two immortal souls had gone to judgment, no more restraint in any of the previous obsce- nities, than if the name of Christ had never been heard in this world, and there were no belief among men but that they perished like the beasts. I have seen, habitually, some of the worst sources of general contamination and coiTuption in this country, and I think thei'e are not many phases of Loudon life that could surprise me. I am solemnly con- vinced that nothing that ingenuity could devise to be done in this city, in the same compass of time, could work such ruin as one public execution, and I stand astounded and appalled by the wickedness it exhibits." It is much to be desired that executions in public should be aboUshed — that death should be inflicted before appointed official witnesses, within the prison walls, the dead bodies being afterwards exhibited for a short time, by which all the demoralizing excitement would be avoided. MILLBANK PRISON is a mass of brickwork equal to a fortress, on the left bank of the Thames, close to Vauxhall Bridge; erected on ground bought in 1799 of the Marquis of Salisbury, and established pursuant to 52 Geo. III., c. 44, passed Aug. 20th, 1812. It was designed by Jeremy Bentham, to whom the fee-simple of the ground was conveyed, and is said to have cost the enormovis sum of half a million sterling. The external walls form an irregular octagon, and enclose upwards of sixteen acres of land. Its ground-plau resembles a wheel, the governor's house occupying a circle in the centre, from which radiate six piles of building, terminating exter- nally in towers. The ground on wliich it stands is raised but little above the river, and was at one time considered unhealthy. It was first named " The Penitentiary," or " Peuitcntiaiy House for London and Middlesex," and was called " The Millbank Prison," pursuant to 6 & 7 Victoria, c. 26. It is the largest pi'ison in London, and contains accommodation for 1120 prisoners; the number of inmates averaging about 700. The annual cost for 1000 prisoners is 28,643'., and the value of their labour in that time, XVIII. — PRISONS. — XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM. 149 2375?. So far as the accommodation of the prison permits, the separate system is adopted. The number of persons in Great Britain and Ireland condemned to penal servitude every j^ear amounts to about 4000. Admissirtii to inspect — oi'der from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, or the Directors of Government Prisons, 25, Parliament Street, Westminster. THE MODEL PRISON, Pentonville, Caledonian-road, near the new Cattle -marliet. The prison contains 1000 sepai-ate cells. The inmates are detained for two years, and are taught useful ti'ades ; a most merciful and charitable provision, which it is to be hoped may prove successful. The cost of each prisoner is about 15s. a week. The first stone was laid, 1810, and the buildmg completed in 1842. The total cost was 84,168/. 12s. 2d THE HOUSE OF CORRECTION, Cold Bath Fields, will hold about 1200 prisoners, and is under the direction of the Middlesex Magistrates and the Secretary of State for the Home Department. There is a similar House of Correction at Westminster. The principal prison for debtors is The Debtoks' Prison, so called, in Whitecross-street, for 380 prisoners. The annual cost of these two to the City of London is 10,000/1. The famous Fleet Prison was abolished during the reign of her present Majesty. CITY OF LONDON PRISON, Hollowat (Mr. Bunniug, Architect,) is a castellated building presenting a medieval character, erected 1853 — 5, to contain the class of prisoners formerly committed to Giltspur Street House of Correction, Bridewell, and the House of Correction for women at the Borough Compter : while, in the same way, the New House of Correction at Wandsworth has relieved the Surrey or Horse- monger Lane Gaol. Average number of prisoners 320. XIX.-PERMANENT FREE EXHIBITIONS. BRITISH MUSEUM, in Great Russell Street, Blooms- bury; built 1823-54 from the designsof Sir Robert Smirlie. but completed by his younger brother Sydney Smirke, A.R.A. The cost of the building amounts to one milhou sterling ! It is faced with a portico, whose columns are extended round the wings of the building, and are 44 in number. The sculpture in the pediment is by Sir Richai'd Westmacott. 150 XIX, — BRITISH MUSEUM. The Museum is ojien to public view on Mondays, Wednes- days and Fridays, from 10 till 4 during January, February, November and December; from 10 till 5 during March, April, September and October ; and from 10 till 6 during May, June, July and August. The Museum is closed from the 1st to the 7th of January, the 1st to the 7th of May, and the 1st to the 7th of September, inclusive, on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, and Christmas Day, and also on any special fast or thanksgiving day, ordered by Authority. The Reading Room is open every day, except on Sundays, on Ash Wednesday, Good Friday, Christmas Day, and on any fast or thanksgiving days, ordered by Authority : except also between the 1st and 7th of January, the 1st and 7th of May, and the 1st and 7th of September, inclusive. The Room is open from 9 till 4 during November, December, January, and February ; from 9 till 5 during September, October, March and April ; and from 9 till 6 during May, June. July and August (except Saturdays, and then till 5). Persons desii-ous of admission must produce a recommendation from a house- holder in London satisfactory to a trustee or an officer of the house, and must send in their applications in writing (specifying their christian and surnames, rank or pi'ofession, and places of abode), to the Principal Librai-ian, or, in his absence, to the Secretaiy, or, in his absence, to the senior Under Librarian, who will either immediately admit such persons, or lay their applications before the next meeting of the trustees. Permission will in general be gi-anted for six months ; and at the expii-ation of this term fresh application is to be made for a renewal. The tickets given to readers are not transferable, and no person can be admitted -without a ticket. Persons under 18 years of age are not admissible. Artists are admitted to study in the Galleries of Sculpture, between the hours of 9 and 4, every day, except Saturday. The Print Room is closed on Saturdays. The Medal and Print Rooms can be seen only by a few persons at a time, and by particular permission. The British Museum originated in an offer to Parliament, made in the will of Sir Hans Sloanc (d. 1753), of the whole of his collection for 20,000^.-30,000^. less than it was said to have cost him. The offer was at once accepted, and an Act passed in 1753, "for the pui'chase of it, and of the Harleian Collection of MSS., and procuring one general repository for the better reception and more convenient use of the said Collection, and of the Cottonian Library, and additions thereto." In pursuance of this Act the sum of 300,000?, XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM. 151 GROUND PLAN OF THE BRITISU MUSEUM. 152 XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM — ANTIQUITIES. was raised by a Lotteiy ; 20,000Z. paid for the Sloane Museum, 10,000^. for the Harleian Collection of MSS., and 10,250Z. to the Earl of Halifax for Montague House in Bloomsbury — a mansion at that time perfectly well adapted for all the objects of the Museum. The collections increasing, new rooms were added to receive the Egyptian Antiquities, given by George III. in 1801. The government of the Museum is vested in trustees, and the chief Gifts and Bequests include the Cotton MSS. ; a collection of Books, and the interest of 7000/., bequeathed by Major Edwardes ; the Royal Library of the Kings of England ; Garrick's Collection of Old Plays; Dr. Birch's Books and MSS. ; Thomas Tyrwhitt's Books; Rev. C. Cracherode's Books, Prints, &c., valued at 40,000^. ; Sir Wm. Musgrave's Books, MSS., and Prints ; Payne Knight's Books, Bronzes, and Drawings ; Sir Joseph Banks's Books and Botanical Si^ecimens ; Library formed by George III.; and Mr. Grenville's Library. The Additional Purchases include Sir William Hamilton's Collection, 8400?. ; Townley Marbles, -28,200?.; Phigalian Marbles, 19,000?.; Elgin Marbles, 35,000?.; Dr. Burney's MSS., 13,500?.; Lansdowne MSS., 4925?. ; Arundel MSS., 3559?. The reader may i>urchase a synopsis of the contents of the Museum shown to the public, in the Hall, as you enter, price one shilling, compiled imder the direction of the trustees. The ground floor of the W. side of the building is occu- pied by Antiquities. Turning to left out of the entrance hall you pass through a narrow gallery containing Roman pavements, pigs of lead beariug Roman inscriptions, &c., found in London and other parts of England In the adjoining rooms are arranged Roman and Grreco- Roman sculptures, terra-cottas, &e., chiefly from Charles Towuley's collection : many of the best of these are works executed by Greek artists in Italy. Observe — The Tovvuley Venus, a half-draped statue found near Ostia, 1775 ; — bust of Minerva, the bronze helmet and breast-plate modern : — busts of Homer, Pindar, Sophocles, Periander, Hippocrates, Pericles, — the Discobulus, or Quoit-playei", from Hadrian's villa (a copy of the bronze statue by Myron) ; — bust of Clytie emerging from a sun-flower ; statue of the Emperor Hadrian in militai'y costume ; bas-relief, the Apotheosis of Homer. Lycian Room. — A series of tombs, bas-reliefs, and statues from tho ruined city of Xanthus ; one group formed the ornaments of the Nereid monument of Xanthus — an Ionic XIX. — EGYPTIAN ANTIQUITIES. 153 peristyle on a basement surrounded with two bands of friezes, representing the conquest of Lycia by the Persians, and the fall of Xanthus as related by Herodotus. The Harpy Tomb is a curious example of very early art. These mai'bles, some of them, of an earlier date than those of the Parthenon, were discovered and brought to England by Sir Charles Fellows. The Eijiiptian Antiquities are arranged in chronological oi'der in three large Halls. The largest saloon con- tains the heavier objects, such as Sarcophagi, Columns, Statues, Tablets of the Dead, Sepulchral Urns, &c. This collection, the finest in Europe for colossal antiquities, comprises about 6000 objects. Observe. — Two liions Cou- chant, in red granite (1 and 34), " perfect models of Architectonic Sculpture."- — Waagen. Colossal Head, 9 feet high, of Rameses II., but better known as the Young Memnon, found iu the Memnoiiium at Thebes, by Belzoni, and deservedly regarded as the most celebrated monu- ment of Egyptian art in any European collection. Colossal Head of a king wearing the fjshent, discovered by Belzoni in Karuak. Statue in red granite of Menepthah II. Colossal Rams Head. The stone Sarcophagus of King Nectanebo I. (B.C. :i67-369), found by the French in the court-yard of the ^Mosque of S. Athanasius, at Alexandria. Dr. Clarke, the traveller, fancied that this was the identical sarcophagus which once contained the body of Alexander the Great. Colossal Scarabteus. The Rosetta Stone, containing an inscrip- tion three times I'epeated — 1, iu hieroglyphics; 2, in a written character called Demotic or Enchoreal; and 3, in the Greek language. This celebrated stone furnished the late Dr. Young with the first clue towards the decipheiing of the ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics. It was found (179^) by M. Bouchard, a French officer of engineers, in digging the foundation of a house, near the Rosetta mouth of the Nile, among the remains of an ancient temple dedicated by Pharaoh Necho to the god Neclio, and came into the hands of the English by the .sixteenth article of the capi- tulation of Alexandria, which required that all objects of art collected by the French Institute in Egypt should be delivered up to the Engli.sli. The stone itself is a piece of black basalt, much mutilated, about 3 feet long, by 2 feet 5 inches broad, and from 10 to 12 inches thick, and contains a decree set up in the reign of Ptolemy V. (Epiphanes), probably about the year B.C. 190. The principal historical facts mentioned arc the birth of the King B.C., 209 ; the troubles iu Egypt, and the decease of his father Philopator ; 164 . XIX. — ASSYRIAN MARBLES — ELGIN MARBLES. the attack of Antiochus by sea and land ; the siege of Lyco- polis ; the inundation of the Nile, B.C., 198 ; the chastisement of the revolters ; the coronation of the King at Meniphi.s, B.C. 196 ; and the issue of the deci'ce itself the follo\\ing day. Between the Egyptian and Elgin Halls are a series of galleries filled with Assyrian Antiquities, from Nimroud, Koyunjik, Khorsabdd, &c., acquired for this country chiefly by the indefatigable exertions of Mr. Layard, Col. Rawlin- son, Mr. Loftus, and ]\[r. Ilagsam ; a most interesting series of statues, marble slabs, &c., brought from ancient Nineveh, arranged in a suite of halls aud side galleries, where the sculptured slabs line the walls as they did in the palace of the Assyrian king. These represent the wars aud con- quests, battles and sieges, lion hunts, &c., of the A8S3'rian monarchs, also the construction of the very palace in which these marbles were found, the raising of the mound, and the planting on them, of the colossal human-headed winged lions and bulls now deposited in the British Museum. Here may be seen the Fish-god (Dagon) — the Kagle-headed god (Nisroch). In a had on the sunk flfior iire placed the most remarkable bas-reliefs, representing the siege and destruc- tion of Lachish by Sennacherib, as described in the Bible. Sennacherib himself is seen on his throne, with Jewish captives before him. Observe. — Colossal statues of Human- headed Lions, and Bulls, and numerous Bassi-i'ilievi repre- senting battle scenes, conferences, bull and lion liunts, &c., and all meriting minute attention. The Koyunjik Side- Gallery filled with Mr. Layards collection extends about 300 feet. The Nimroud Obelisk covered with small highly finished bas-reliefs, with arrow-headed inscriptions, repre- senting a conquered nation bearing tribute, animals, &c., to the king of Assyria, is one of the most curious objects. 1 he glory of the collections in the British ]\luseum are those unequalled works of the best age of Greek sculpture, executed, without doubt, by Phidias and his scholars, known as The E/ghi, Marbles, from the Earl of Elgin, Am- bassador-Extraordinary to the Porte, who, in 1801, obtained firmans for their removal to England. Nos. 1 to 160, from the Parthenon at Athens. But before proceeding to examine these marbles, the visitor will do well to inspect with care, the two models of the Parthenon restored and the Parthenon after the Venetian bombardment, in 1687. These, along with " The Capital and a piece of the Shaft of one of the Doric Columns of the Parthenon," will give a pretty complete notion of what the Parthenon Avas like. XTX. — ELGIN MARBLES. 156 The Marbles are of four kinds: — 1. Statues in the East Pediment ; 2. Statues in the West Pediment ; 3. The Metopes or groups which occupied the square intervals between the raised tablets or triglyphs of the frieze; 4. The Frieze. The marbles of the two Pediments are on stages above the floor of the Saloon. 91. Upper pai-t of the figure of Hyperion rising out of the Sea. His arms ai'e stretched forward, in the act of holding the reins of his coursers. 92. Heads of two of the Horses belonging to the Car of Hypeiion. 93. Theseus. " The Theseus is a work of the first order; but the surface is corroded by the weatlier. The head is iu that impaired state tliat I cannot give an opinion upon it; and tlie limbs are mutilated. I prefer it to the Apollo Belvidere, which, I believe, to be only a copy. It has more ideal beauty than any male statue I know." — Flaxiiian. 94. Group of two Goddesses (Ceres and Proserpine) seated. 95. Statue of Iris, the messenger of Juno. She is repre- sented in quick motion, as if about to communicate to distant regions the birth of Minerva. 96. A Torso of Vic- tory. 97. A group of the three Fates. 98. Head of a Horse (very fine) from the Car of Night. West Pediment, Representing the Contest of Minena and Neptune fur the Guardianship of Attica. 100 101 102 103 104 105 99. The Ilissus (statue of a river-god, and, after the Theseus, the finest in the collection). 100. Torso of a male figure, supposed to be that of Cecrops, the founder of Athens. 101. Upper part of the head of Minerva, originally covered with a bronze helmet, as appears from the holes by which it was fastened to the marble. 102. A portion of the chest 156 XIX. — PHIGALIAN MARBLES, of the same statue. 103. Upper part of the Torso of Nep- tune. 104. Another fragment of the statue of Minerva. 105. The Toi-so of Victoria Apteros : the goddess was represented driving the Car of Minerva, to receive her into it, after her successful contest with Neptune. 106. Fragment of a group which originally consisted of Latona, with her two children, Apollo and Diana. The Metopes (1 — 16, bas-reliefs let into the wall) represent the battle of the Centaurs and Laj^ithse. The originals are 15 in num- ber : the 16th (No. 9) is a cast from the original in the Royal Museum at Paris. The Frieze (17 — 90, a series of bas- reliefs, which ran round the exterior frieze of the Cella of the Parthenon) represents the solemn procession called the Pauathentea, which took place at Athens, every six years, in honom- of Minerva. East End (17—24), Nos. 20 and 23 are casts. The original of 23 is in the Royal Museum at Paris ; parts, also, of 21 and 22 aVe casts. North End, Nos. 25 — 46; West End, Nos. 47 — 61 ; all but 47 are casts; the originals destroyed. South End, Nos. 62—90. " "We possess in England the most precious examples of Grecian Art. The horses of the Frieze in the Elgin Collection appear to live and move, to roll tlieir eyes, to gallop, prance, and curvet. The veins of their faces and legs seem distended with ciixulation ; in tliem are distinguished the hardness and decision of bony forms, from the elas- ticity of tendon and tlie softness of flesh. The beholder is charmed with tlie deer-lilie liglitness and elegance of their make; and although tlie relief is not above an inch from the back ground, and they are so much smaller than nature, we can scarcely suffer reason to persuade us they are not alive." — Flaxman. PMgalkm Mavhles (in the Phigalian Saloon). — 23 bas- reliefs, found in the ruins of the Temi^le of Apollo Epicu- rius, built on Mount Cotylion, at a little distance from the ancient city of Phigalia in Arcadia. 1 to 11 represent the Battle of the Centaurs and Lapithae. 12 to 23, the Battle of the Greeks and Amazons. The temple from which they were taken was built by Ictinus, an architect contemporary with Pericles. 24 to 39 are fragments from the same temple. jEfjina Marhles. — Casts of two groups which filled the pedi- ments at the Eastern and Western Ends of the Temple of Jupiter PanhcUenius, in the island of /Egina. The subject of the W. pediment is the contest between the Greeks and Trojans for the body of Patroclus. Bodroum Marbles. — 11 bas-reliefs, brought to l^igland, in 1846 and 1858, from Bodroum, in Asia Minor, the site of the ancient Halicar- nassus, and presented to the British Museum by Sir Strat- ford Canning. To these have been added the products of SIX. — EGYPTIAN AND ETRUSCAN ROOMS. 157 excavations made by Charles Newton, who found the mag- nificent colossal draped statue supposed to be Mausolus himself, and ascertained the site and laid open the founda- tions of the Mausoleum or sepulchre, built in the 4th year of the 106th Olympiad, b.c. 357, by Artemisia, Queen of Caria, in honour of her husband. King Mausolus.* The bas- reliefs were biult into the faces of the walls of a fortress built by the knights of Rhodes, circ. 1400, at the entrance of the harbour. The story represented is a combat of Ama- zons and Greek warriors. Passing through the great Egyptian Halls, you reach a staircase lined with Egyptian papyri MSS., leadmg to a suite of rooms ; on the upper floor are jjlaced the Minor Objects of Egyptian Antiquity, arranged in glass cases, com- prising, Deities ; Sacred Animals ; small Statues ; Household Furniture ; objects of Dress and Toilette ; Jewels, Vases, Lamps, &c. ; Bowls, Cups, &c. ; Vases of Bronze, Agricul- tural Implements, Viands, &c. ; Fragments of Tombs, Wea- pons, &c. ; Inscriptions ; Instruments of Writing, Painting, &c. ; Baskets, Tools, Musical Instinments, Playthings. Ani- mal Mummies, Human Mummies, Coffins, Amulets, Sepul- chral Ornaments, &c., many of the greatest curiosity, and exhibiting the various modes of embalming practised by the Egyp)tiaus, and the various degrees of care and splen- dour expended on the bodies of diffei'ent ranks. Ohsei-ve — Models of Egyptian Boats ; Egyptian Wig and Box ; Model of a House, &c. ; Stand with Cooked Waterfowl ; Coffin and Body of Mycerinus from the 3rd Pyramid. Vases and Etruscan Rooms, containing a collection of vases discovered in Italy, and known as Eti-uscan, or Grscco-Italian, beautifully painted. The collection is arranged chronologi- cally, and according to the localities in which the several anti- quities were found. Cases 1 to 5 contain Vases of heavy black ware, some with figures upon them in bas-relief, and princi- pally found at Cervetri or Caere. Cases 6 and 7 contain the Nolan- Egyptian or Phoenician Vases, with pale backgrounds and figures in a deep reddish maroon colour, chiefly of animals. Cases 8 to 19 contain tlic early Vases from Vulcl, Caniuo, and the Ponte della Badia, to the north of Rome, with black figures upon red or orange backgrounds, the sub- jects of these are generally mythological. The vases in Cases 20 to 30, executed with more care and finish, are for the most part from Canino and Nola. Those in the centre See "The Mausoleum at llalicarnassus Kestore By James Fer gusson. 4to. 1862. 158 XIX. — BRONZES. of the room, Cases 31 to 55, are of a later style, and chiefly from the province of the Basilicata, to the south of Rome ; their subjects are principally relative to Bacchus. Cases 36 to 51 contain Vases from Apulia, resembling in their colour and ti'eatmeut those of Nola. Cases 56 to 60 are filled with terra-cottas, principally of Etruscan workmanship. The spe- cimens of Etruscan Jewellery, necklaces, armlets, wreaths of gold, bronze helmets, armour, &c., should not be passed unnoticed. Over the cases are several re^Dresentations of paintings from the walls of Etiaiscan Tombs at Tarquinii and Cometo. The bequest of Sir William Temple, minister at Naples (d. 1856), of Antiquities chiefly found at Pompeii, and other parts of Magna Grseoa, includes many fine antiques, bronzes, vases, some very large ones, also a celebrated rhytou in the form of a mule's head, glass, armour, wall paintings, &c. Bronze Room, chiefly occupied with the collections of Hamilton, Tovvnley, Payne, Knight, &c. Observe — 4 precious bas-i"eliefs from Paramythia, in Epirus. Fragments of a Grecian cuirass, dug up on the banks of the Sii'is, in Magna Grsecia, known as the " Bronzes of Siris," of the very finest workmanship. Figures of gods aud heroes in order ; bronze mirrors, ornaments, furniture, keys, weights, knives, spoons, styles (for writing), Greek, Etruscan, and Roman. Silver bas-relief, part of an Etruscan chariot, found at Penigia. Two bronze helmets found at Olympia, one dedicated to Jupiter by Hiero, tyrant of Syracuse, the other by the people of Argos, out of spoils taken from their enemies. Certain objects and collections not publicly exhibited may be seen by artists and connoisseurs by special per- mission. The Barheiini or Portland Vase (9| inches high, 21| inches in circumfei'ence), discovered in a sepulchral chamber, 3 m. from Rome, on the road to Frascati (1623-44). Sir William Hamilton bought it at the sale of the Barberini Library, and subsequently sold it to the Duchess of Port- land, at whose sale, in 1786, it was bought in, by the family, for 1029Z. It is still the property of the Duke of Portland, and has been deposited in the British Museum since 1810. The ground on which the figures are wrought is of a dark amethystine blue — semi-tmnsparent ; but it has not as yet been clearly ascertained what the figures repre- sent. This wonderful vase was smashed to pieces, 7th of Feb, 1845, by a madman, but has since been wonderfully restored, so that the injuries are scarcely visible. Medal Room. — The Greek coins are aiTanged in geogi*a- XIX. — BRITISH MUSEUM LIBRARY. 159 pliical order ; the Roman in chronological ; and the Anglo- Saxon, English, Anglo-GalHc, Scotch, and Irisli coins, and likewise the coins of foreign nations, according to the respective countries to which tlie coins belong ; tliose of each country being kept separate. Oems and taiueos. — In tlaese objects the Museum is poor. British and Mediceval Hooms contain antiquities found in Great Britain and Ireland, beginning with celts (stone axes), flint knives, and arrow-heads, disks or whorls of jet of Kimineridge coal, and other substances vised to twirl the spindle ; bronze celts, daggers, knives ; bronze shields, found in the Isis and the Thames ; horse trappings, &c., of bronze, some enamelled. Roman antiquities found in London and elsewhere. Mediceval. Astrolabes and watches, enamels ; pottery and porcelain of Chelsea, Bow, Derby, &c. ; Wedge- wood ware. The Mediceval Collectirm, still in course of formation, includes the sword of state of the Earldom of Chester, made for Edward V. when Prince of Wales ; the signet ring of Mary, Queen of Scots ; and some interesting figure fragments of the fresco decorations in old St. Stephen's Chapel at Westminster. The Library of Printed Boohs exceeds 700,000 volumes, and about 75,000 volumes are added yearly. Compared with the great public libraries on the Continent, it ranks second to none exce[it the Imperial library at Paris. It con- tains twice as many American books as any library in the United States; also 1650 copies of the Bible in various edi- tious and languages, and more than 1'2,0U0 pamphlets, &c., relating to the French Rcvolations : no such collection exists in France. Here is the library of the Ivings of England, pre- sented to the nation by George II., containing exquisite examples of books bound in embroidered velvet for Queen Elizabeth, James I., Charles I., &c. George Ill's Library, consisting of upwards of 80,000 volumes, and kept in a separate i-oom, the finest room in the buikUng, was given to the nation by George IV., in 1823, and is said to have cost 1.30,000^. It is one of the most noble libraries known, remarkable not only for the judicious selection of the works, and the discriminating choice of the editions, but for the bibliographical peculiarities and rarity of the copies. The number of books on large paper is unusually gi-eat. Among the rarities may be mentioned; the Maza- rine Bible, the earliest printed book known, supposed to have issued from the press of Gutenberg and Fust, at Mentz, about 1455 — it is in Latin and on vellum ; the first printed Psalter, in Latin, ou vellum — printed at Mentz, by Fust and 160 XiX. — READING ROOM. Schoeffer, in 1457 ; the first book printed with a date, and the first example of printing in colours ; ^sop's Fables — pi'inted at Milan, about 1480 ; the first edition of the first Greek classic printed : the first edition of Homer — Florence, 1488 ; for- merly in the possession of the historian De Thou : Virgil — • printed at Venice, by Aldus, in 1501 ; on vellum: the first book printed in Italic types ; and the earliest attempt to produce cheap books : — it belonged to the Gonzaga family, and carries the autographs of the two Cardinals Ippolito and Ercole, as well as that of Vinceuzo Gonzaga, Duke of Mantua. The room to your right on entering from the hall contains the Oreyimlle Library, a collection of 20,240 volumes, bequeathed to the nation by the Right Hon. Thomas Greuville, and said to have cost upwards of 54,000^. Other Hberal donors have been Eev. C. M. Cracherode, David Garrick, Sir Joseph Banks, &c. The entrance to the Reading Rooms directly faces you as you pass under the great portico into the Hall of the Museum. The new Reading Rooms and Libraries were built in com- pliance with a happy suggestion of Mr. Panizzi — in the vacant space foi'med by the inner quadrangle of the Museum, thus economising ground and money, and securing the fittest situation, close to the apartments in which the books are deposited. It was completed in three years, at a cost of £150,000 — Sidney Smirke being architect, and Messrs. Baker and Fielder builders — and opened 1 857. The Reading Room is circular, surmounted by an elegant dome, 140 feet in diameter (only two feet less than the Pantheon, and one foot more than St. Peter's, Rome), and 106 feet high. It is constructed chiefly of iron, by whicli much space is saved, with brick arches between the main ribs, sup- ported by 20 iron piers. It can receive with ease and comfort, at one time, 300 readers, each being provided with a separate desk. The general arrangements are sufficiently explained in the Plan. The whole is thoroughly warmed and ventilated, and the floors are laid with Kamptulikon, to prevent noise and reverberation. There are 35 reading tables, and two are set apart for the exclusive use of ladies. The Book-presses under the gallery arc filled with a large library of reference for the use of the readers, comprising most of the standard works on the various branches of learning, and an extensive collection of dictionaries of all languages, biographical works, oncyclopffidias, parliamentary histories, topographical works, &c., &c. These books, whicli XIX. — REABING ROOM. — MANUSCRIPTS. IGl nre about 20,000 in number, the readers can consult at l)leasure without filling up tickets for them. Having consulted the catalor/ue which extends to 977 MS. volumes, and found the title of the book you require, you transcribe the title, on a printed form given below, to be found near the catalogues, from whence you derive your references. Press Mark. Title of the Work wanted. Size. Place. Date. (Date) (Signature) Please to restore each volume of the Catalogue to its place, as soon as done with. KEADKRS ARE PARTICULARLY REQUESTED 1. Not to ask for more than one work on the same ticket. 2. To trimscrihe lit', mlly from the Catalogues the title of the Work wanted. 3. To write in a plain clear hand, in order to avoid delay and mistakes. 4. Before leaving the Room, to retrnm tlie books to an attendant, and to obtain the corresponding ticket, the Reader being respon- SinLE FOR THE BOOKS SO LONG AS THE TICKET REMAINS UNCANCELLED. N.B. — Readers are, under no circumstances, to take any Book or MS. out of the Reading Rooms. The tickets for Printed Books are on white j^aper ; for MSS. on green paper. Manuscripts. — The manuscripts in the Museum are divided under several heads, of which the following are the chief : — the Cotton MSS. (catalogued in 1 vol. folio); the Harleian MSS. (catalogued in 4 vols, folio); the Lansdowne MSS, (catalogued in 2 vols, folio); the Royal MSS. (catalogued in 1 vol. quarto, called Casley's Catalogue); the Sloane and Birch MSS. (in 1 vol. Cjuarto) ; the Anindel MSS. ; the Burney, Hargi-ave, and a large and Miscellaneous collection of " Additional MSS." in number about 30,000. The rarest MSS. are entitled " Select," and can only be seen and exa- mined in the presence of an attendant. The contents of two cases alone are valued at above a quarter of a million. Among the more remarkable we may mention : — Copy of the Gospels in Latin (Cotton MSS., Tiberius A. II., the only un- doubted relic of the ancient regalia of England), sent over to Athelstano by his brother-in-law the emperor Otho, between 936 and 940, given by Athelstane to the metropolitan church of Canterbury, and borrowed of Sir Robert Cotton to be used at the coronation of Charles I. The " Book of St. Cuthbert " M r'LAN OP NEW RRADINO-KOOM, BRITISH MUSEUM SuppTintenilent. B CainloKue Tables. (J lUailers' TablPB. 1) Access for AUeadants. F, Entrance from Koral Library. 1 K Ri-ntlcmen's Cloak UooJ! K Kniranc.i ironi .North Library L Vor Gentlemen. G For Iteiiistration of Copyrights. M U.nbrella Room. 11 L..lifs'(:i,>ak-llooin. ' ^ '-"" '" J Attendants' Rouip ■ N Assistants' Room. XIX. — PRINT ROOM. 163 or " Durham Book," a copy of the Gospels iu Latiu, written ill the seventh century by Eadfrith, Bishop of Lindisfarne, and illuminated by Atliehvald, the succeeding Bishop. The Bible, said to have been written by Alcuin for Charlemagne. The identical copy of Guiar des Moulix's version of Pierre le Mangeur's Biblical History, which was found in the tent of John, King of France, at the battle of Poictiers. MS. of Cicero's translation of the Astronomical Poem of Aratus. An Anglo-Saxon MS. of the ninth century. The Bedford Missal, executed for the Regent Duke of Bedford, brother of Henry V. Psalter written for Henry VI. Le Roman de la Rose (Hai'l. MS. 4425). Henry VIII.'s Psalter, containing Portraits of Himself and Will Somers. Lady Jane Grey's Pi-ayer Book. Queen Elizabeth's Prayer Book, written in a print-hand ; the cover is her own needlework. Harl. MS. (7334), supposed to be the best MS. of Chaucer's Canterbury Tales. Portrait of Chaucer, by Occleve (from which Vertue made his engrav- ing). Froissart's Chronicles, with many curious illustrations — often engraved. Matthew Paris, illuminated. A volume of Hours executed circ. 1490, by a Flemish Artist (Hemme- linck ?), for Philip the Fair, of Castile, or for his wife Joanna, mother of the Emperor Charles V. Carte Blanche which Prince Charles (Charles II.) sent to Parliament to save his fatlier's life. Oliver Cromwell's Letter to the Speaker, describing the Battle of Naseby. Milton's assignment of "Paradise Lost" to Simmonds the bookseller for 15Z.; Dryden's assignment to Tonson of his translation of Virgil. Original MS. of Pope's Homer, written on the backs of letters. Stew's collections for his Annals and his Survey of London. 317 volumes of Syriac MSS., obtained from Egyptian monasteries. Print Room. — Drawings, tfcc— A small, but interesting, and valuable, collection, containing specimens of Fra Beato Ange- lico, Fra Filijipo Lippi, D. Ghirlandajo, P. Perugino, Leo- nardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, Raphael, Mich. Augelo, Giovanni Bellini, Titian, and Correggio^of Albert Durer, Hans Holbein, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, Backhuysen, A. Ostade, &c. Niellos of the rarest kind — in silver — with 300 impressions on sulphur and paper from niellos. Observe. — Impression in sulphur of the famous Pax of Maso Finiguerra, cost 250 guineas. Silver Pax by the same master. Two unique niellos of Leon, da Viuci. Carving in soapstone, in high relief, by Albert Diirer (dated 1510), repi'esenting the Birth of John the Baptist. Prints.— ^ Marc Antonio's (fine). Lucas van Leyden's (fine). Albert Diirer's (fine). Rembrandt's (in 8 volumes, the finest known). Van Dyck etchings (good). Early Italian School (uumei'ous and fine). M 2 164 XIX. — ZOOLOGY — MINERALOGY AND GEOLOGY. Dutch etcliings (the Sheepshanks collection, containing AVaterloo, Berghem, P. Potter, A. Ostade, &c., tlie finest known). Su-JoshuaKej^nolds's works (not all proofs). Piaphael Morghen's works, Faithorne's works (in 5 volumes, very fine). Hogarth's worlcs (good). Crowle's collections to illustrate Pennant's London (cost 7000/.). Works of Strange, Woollett and Sharp (good). Stothard's works, in 4 volumes (fine). On a range of stands in the Kings Library are framed some of the choicest specimens of drawings and engravings of all scliools. Tlie Coll'Ctions of Natural History axe arranged in galleries on the first floor of the buildings, and are reached from the entrance-hall by ascending the great staircase. Zoology. — This collection is superior to that at Berlin, and inferior only to that in the Museum at Paris. In a case at the head of the stairs is a huge Go)'illa, with its .slceleton uearlj'- 6 ft. high, shot by Mods. Du Uhaillu ; the largest specimen in Europe ; also his wife and family. Mammalia Saloon. — In the wall-cases are specimens of Eapacious and Hoofed Beasts; and over the cases, the different kinds of Seals, Manatees, and Porpoises ; and on the floor are placed the larger hoofed beasts, too large to be arranged in their jirojier places in the cases. Here, on the floor, is the Wild Ox from Chillingham Park, Northiira- berland. Eastern Zoological Gallery. — The wall-cases contain the collection of Birds ; the smaller table-cases in each recess contain birds' Eggs, arranged in the same series as the birds; the larger table-cases, in the centre of the room, contain the collection of Shells of Molluscous Animals ; and on the top of the wall-cases is a series of Horns of hoofed quadrupeds. Here, among the Wading Birds (Case 108), is the foot of the Dodo, a bird now extinct, only known by a few scanty remains, and by a painting here preserved, drawn, it is said, from a living bird brought from the Mauritius. Mineralogy and Geology, (in the N. Gallery). — The system adopted for the arrangement of the minerals, with occasional slight deviations, is that of Berzelius. The detail of this arrangement is f)ct with in the bogs of Ireland, and occasionally in some parts of England, and the Isle of Man. The present specimen is from Ireland : it is the Cervus megaceros and C. gigantcus of authors. In Room VI. is the entire skeleton of the American Mastodon {Mastodon Ohioticus), and suite of separate bones aiid teeth of the same animal : the jaws, tusks, molar teeth and other osseous parts of Elephas primigenius, especially those of the Siberian variety (the Mammoth of early wiitcrs): the crania and other parts of extinct Indian Elephants. At the W. end of the same room (\'I.) is the fossil human skeleton brought from Guadaloupe, embedded in a limestone which is in process of formation at tlic pi'escnt day. Northern Zoolof/ical GuUenj, Room I. — The wall-cases contain a series of the Skulls of the larger Mammalia, to illustrate the charactei's of the families and genera ; and of the Nests of birds, and the arbours of the two species of Bower Bird ; the one ornamented with fresh- 166 XIX. — PORTRAITS. water shells and bones, and the other with feathers and land shells, &c. Tlie table-cases: — the tubes of Annulose Animals, the casts of the interior cavities of Shells, and various speci- mens of shells, illustrative of the diseases and malformation of those animals. Room II. — The wall-cases contain the col- lection of Reptiles and Batrachian Animals, preserved dry and in spmts; and the table-cases the fu'st part of the collection of the hard part of Radiated Animals, including Sea Eggs, Sea Stars, and Encrinites. Room III. — The wall cases contain the Handed and Glirine Mammalia, and the table-cases the diiferent kinds of Corals. Room IV. — The wall-cases contain the collection of Fish, and the table-cases a few specimens of Annulose Animals, to exhibit their systematic arrangement. The collection of Insects and Crustacea are preserved in cabinets. They may be seen by persons wishing to consult them for the jjurpose of study (by application to the Keeper of the Zoological Collection) every Tuesday and Thursday. To prevent disappointment, it is requested that persons wishing to see those collections will apjily two days j^revious to their intended visit. Room V. — The wall-cases contain, the Molluscous and Radiated Animals in spirits. Over the wall-cases is a very large Wasj)'s Nest from India ; and some Neptune's Cups — a kind of sponge — from Singapore. Table- cases: — Sponges of different kinds, showing their various forms and structure, and some preserved in flint of the same character. Botany. — The Botanical Collection is very large, and consists piincij^ally of the collection bequeathed by Su' Joseph Banks. The only watch at night for all these treasures is sixteen soldiere. Portraits — (on the walls of the E. Zoological Galleiy)— 116 in number, and not very good. A few, however, deserve to be mentioned : — Vesalius, by Sir Antonio More. Captain William Dampier, by Murray (both from the Sloane Collection). Sir Robert Cotton, the founder of the Cottonian Library. Sir William Cotton, his son, Robert, Earl of Oxford, and Edward, Earl of Oxford (both presented by the Duchess Dowager of Portland). Humphrey Wanley. George Vertue (presented by his widow). Sir Hans Sloane, half-length, by Slaughter. Dr. Birch. Andrew Marvell. Alexander Pope. Matthew Prior, by Hudxon, from an original by Richardson. Oliver Cromwell, by Walker (bequeathed, 1784, by Sir Robert Rich, Bart., to whose great-grandfather, Nathaniel Rich, Esq., then serving as a Colonel of Horse in the Parlia- ment Army, it was presented by Cromwell himself). Mary Davis, an inhabitant of Great Saughall in Cheshire, XIX. — NATIONAL GALLERY, 167 taken 1668, "rt'/a e master in any Gallery. — Paolo Ucello (a very rare master): Battle of St. Giles.— Fra Filippo Lippi. — Borgonone (most rare). — Benozzo Gozzoli: Coronation of Virgin described by Vasari : the Rape of Hilen. — Pollaiuolo : Martyrdom of St. Sebastian, praised by Vasari, and studied by Michael Angelo. — Ghirlandajo : Virgin and Infant Jesus. — FiLiPriNO Lippi : St. Jerome and St. Dominic adoring the Infant Jesus. — Bellini: Virgin and Child : Portrait of Doge Loredano. — Giorgione: Death of Peter M.artyr (from Orleans G.): Kniglit in Armour (Mr Roger's bequest). — Titian : Bacchus and Ariadne ; a murvel of harmony and richness of colom- : Holy Family Reposing: Portrait of Arioato : The Tribute Money, from Marshal Soull's collection; cost 2604?. — Moretto : Tlie Virgin surrounded by Saints (Nortliwick Gallery) — Fra Angf.i.ico ; Christ as^cmbling the Blessed after the last Judgment; a predella, in five compartments, from the cimrch at Fiesnli (1861). — Cimabue : The Virgin surrounded bv Angels, tiescribed hi Viisari. — Carkacci (Anxibal) : Clirist appearing to St. Peter, from the Aldobrandini Collection. " This little picture is admirably executed throughout." — Waage.n. Pan or Silenus teaching Apollo to play on the reed pipe. — Carracci (Ludovico) : Susannah and the Elders ; an Orleans picture. — G01DO : the Magdalen : Susannah and the Elders ; purchased by Government for 1260?. — Claude : Landscape, Ceplialus andProcris; painted in 1645; Landscape, called the " Chigi Claude" (fine) ; cost Mr. Carr 2703 guineas ; a Seaport, called the " Bouillon Claude" (very fine); cost Mr. Angerstein 4000?.; the figures repre.sent the Embarkation of the Queen of Sheba : Landscape, with the story of Narcissus : a Seaport ; the figures represent the Embarkation of St. Ursula and her attendant Virgins (very fine) : a Landscape, Death of XIX. — NATIONAL GALLERY. 169 Procris : a Group of Trees: Landscape, Hagar and her Son in tbe Desert (fine). — Salvator Rosa • Landscape with the fable of Mercury and tlie Woodman ; purchased by Parliament, in 1834, for 1680?. — Paul Veronese: Tent ot Darius; from tlie Pisani PaUce, Venice; pur- chased 1857, for £14,000: "Th.-, finest work of the master in Italy." - Mushin. — Canaletti : View in Venice (fine). Spanish ScJiool. ] j Velasquez : Philip IV. of Spain hunting the Wild Boar (very fine); purchased in 1846, for 2200?. — Murillo : the Holy Family; four figures, life-size; purchased in 1837, for 3000?.: the Intsint St. John with the Lamb ; purchased, at Sir Simon Clarke's sale, for 2100?. Flemish School. John Van Eyck : Portraits of a Flemish Gentleman and a Lady, (very fine); under the mirror is written, "Johannes de Eyck fuit hie 1434 ; " purchased in 1842, for 600 guineas : small Portrait, bought (1851) for 365?. — Rurens : the Rape of tbe Sabines: Peace and War (fine), presented by Rubens to Charles I.; bought by the Marquis of Stafford for 3000?., and presented by him to thu National Gallery : tbe Brazen Serpent : a Landscape ; Rubens's Chateau (fine) ; cost Sir George Beaumont 1500?. : Apotheosis of William the Taciturn ; a sketch for tlie large design at Osterley, the seat of Lord Jersey (fine) ; ];urchased in 1842, for 200?. : the Judgment of Paris (very fine) ; an Orleans picture ; purcba.sed 1847, for 4200?. — Van Dyck: St. Ambrosius refusing to admit the Emperor Tbeodosius into the church at Milan (fine); cost Mr. A ngerstein 1600?. : a Portrait called Gevartius (one of the finest portraits in the world); cost Mr. Angerstein 375?. — Remlrandt : the Woman taken in Adultery (very fine); Mr. Angerstein bought it for 5250?. : Portrait of a Jew-merchant, life-size, three-quarters : Christ taken down from the Cross ; a study in black and white (fine) : the Adoration of the Shepherds. — Cuyp : a Landscape, Huntsman on a dappled grey horse (tine); bought by Mr. Angerstein at Sir Laurence Dundas's sale, in 1794, for 204?. 15s. — Arnold Vander Neer : a Land- scape, Evening. — NiciroLAS Maes : a Girl peeling pai'sneps (fine). — • David Teniebs : the Misers (very fine). French School. Sebastian Boukdon : the Return of the Ark (belonged to Sir Joshua Reynolds, who praises it in his Discourses). — N. Poussin : a Landscape : a Dance of Bacchanals in honour of Pan (very fine). — G. Poussin: Ijandscape ; the figures represent Abraham preparing to sacrifice his son Isaac : a Land-storm : a cla.ssical Landscape, with the story of Dido and yEneas (fine) : View of Lerici (fine) : an Italian Landscape ; cost Lord Farnborough 700 guineas. The Turner Gallery consists of 120 of J. M. W. Turner's finest worlc^, bequeathed by him to tbe nation, together witii his di awings, valued at tbe sinu of £400,000, occupying a liall by them.-elves. Observe — Calais Pier; The Shipwreck; Battle 'f TrataU-ar ; Tlie Ulack- sinitli's f^ho') (in imitation of Wilkie); Crossing tli(^ IJrook ; Buildicig of Carthage ; The Frosiv Mornic.g; Ulysses deriding Polyphemus (1829 ; The Old T^nnSraire (1839). Two fine Landscapes, by J. M. W. Turner, left (1852) to the British nation, on condition that they should be hung as companions to the Claudes in the National Gallery, which has lieeri complied with. Observe. — In the Hall : Statue of Sir David Wilkie, by S. Joseph; Wilkie's palette is let into the pedestal. Alto- 170 XIX. — SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM. relievo, by T. Banks, R. A., Thetis Eiud her Nymphs rising from the sea to condole with Achilles on the loss of Pati'oclus (fine). The NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, founded 1858, at the suggestion of Earl Stanhope, who is the first President, is placed temporarily in the house No. 29, Great George Street, and is open Wednesdays and Saturdays from 12 to 4. The collection, though at present in its infancy, contains more than 100 interesting portraits of British worthies, among them Sir Walter Raleigh, Shakespeare (Chandos por- trait, from Stowe) ; — by Reynolds, Himself and Sir Wm. Chambers; by Romney, Cumberland; by Walher, Ireton; by Kneller, Judge Jeffries ; by Lawrence, Wilberforce (a head) and Sir Ja?. Mackintosh ; by Abbott, Nollekens ; hy Beechey, Mrs. Siddons; by Naysmi'li, Robt. Burns by Willcie, himself. SOUTH KENSINGTON MUSEUM, Brompton, close to Brompton Church, 1 mile from Hyde Park Corner, built upon the estate purchased with the surplus funds derived from the Exhibition of 1851. It is also approached from the Kensington Road and Hyde Park by Exhibition Road. This, the head-quarters of the Government Department of Science and Art. formerly in Marlborough House, is under the able management of Mr. Henry Cole, and is daily aug- menting in interest and importance. The collections be- longing to it are placed partly in a range of ugly boiler-roofed buildings. Thej'^ consist of objects of ornamental art in all its branches ; — an architectural museum — museum of patents — courts of Italian and modei-n sculpture — and gallery of British art ; materials used in construction ; animal pro- ducts; food; educational apparatus ; school-books, &c. ; the whole designed for the instruction and profitable study of the working classes, as well as for the general recreation of all. The art-collections include casts and specimens of sculpture and architectui'al ornament of all ages and countries — mural paintings — encaustic tiles — mosaics — painted glass — photographic drawings — engravings, &c., &c. To these are joined the Educational Collections formed by the government, a well-stocked Library of Reference, where the most costly works of art, galleries, illustrations. &c., may be consulted upon the small payment of one penny, and a lecture-room ; also waiting and refreshment rooms, furnished with lavatories, where a cup of coffee may be had for 2d. Admission. — Monday, Tuesday, and Saturday, free; also Monday and Tuesday evenings (when the galleries are XIX. — VERNON AND SHEEPSHANKS GALLERY. 171 lighted). Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, students' days : admission to public, 6d. In the architectural museum, belonging to the Society of British Architects, is placed, by permission of the Dean of St. Paul's, Wren's first and favourite plan for the rebuild- ing of the Cathedral. This is quite a study, and additionally interesting, as it shows how well Wren was aware of the difficulties he had to contend with in his art, and how com- pletely he had foreseen the minor objections raised to the minute details of particular parts of the present building. The dome, however, of the present Cathedral is surely finer than any part of the rejected model. The Museum, of Patents, temporarily placed here, contains an accumulation of machines and models, among which ai'e some real ciu'iosities, as — the original spinning and carding machine of Arkwiight; model of first locomotive (Ti'evi- thick's) ; the beam-engine model made by James Watt ; the first steam-engine for ships ^Millar of Dalswinton and Sym- ington) ; a collection of portraits of great inventors. Two blocks of building, substantially built 1859-60, in 8 weeks, during which 350,000 bricks were laid, under the direction of Capt. Fowkes, lloyal Engineers, were raised, 1859, to hold the VERNON AND SHEEPSHANKS COLLECTION, be- longing to the National Gallery. Paiittings of the EnrjVish School. HuYSMAN : Original Portrait of Izaak Walton, the angler. — Hogarth : Portrait of Himself (the well-kno\7n engraved head) ; the Marriage i la Mode (a series of six pictnres, Hogarth's greatest work ; the character inimitable, the colouring excellent). Hogarth received for the six pic- tures 110 guineas: Mr. Angerstein paid 138U. for them. — K. Wilson: Maecenas' Villa; Landscape, ^rith the story of Niobe and her children. — Gainsborough : the Market-cart; the Watering-place. — Sir Joshua Keynolds : Portrait of Lord Heathfield with the keys of the fortress of Gibraltar; Studies of Angels, five heads, life-size. — Lawrence: John Philip Kemble, as Hamlet; Portrait of Benjamin West, the painter. — Wilkie : the Blind Fiddler, painted for 50 guineas for Sir George Beaumont: the Village Festival, painted for Mr. Angerstein. — Constable, R.A .: the Com-iield.— Gilbert Stuart : Portrait of WooUett, the engraver. John Sheepshanks, Esq., has, while yet alive, bestowed on the nation a collection of 234 oil paintings, chiefly of modern British artists, — formed by himself, — besides drawings, &c. It includes some of the finest and most popular works of the English school : including WiUdcs Broken Jar, and Duncan Graj' ; Mulreadtfs Choosing the Wedding Gown, Giving a Bite, First Love ; Sir Edivin Land- 172 XIX. — VERNON AND SHEEPSHANKS GALLERY. see7-'8 Jack in Office, Highland Drovers, the ShejDherd's Chief Mourner, Twa Dogs, &c. ; C. R. Leslie's Uncle Toby and the Widow Wadmau, Catherine and Petrucclaio, and the Mei-ry Wives of Windsor. The Vernon Collection of the English School. (162 pictures, presented to the nation in 1817 by Robert Vernon, Esq., wlio died lu 1849.) Sir Joshua Reynolds : tlie Age of Innocence, cost 1450 guineas. — Gainsborough : Landscape, Sunset ; tlie Young Cottagers. — Richard Wilson: lour small pictures. — Loutiiekbourg: small Landscape — Sir a. W. Callcott, R.A. : Littlehampton Pier; Coast Scene; Crossing the Brook. — Wilkie: the Newsmongers; the Bagpipei-; the First Ear-ring; the Whiteboy's Cabin. — E. Bird, R.A. : the Raffle for the Watch. — Constable, R.A.: His Father's Mill. — Collins, R.A. : Happy as a King; Prawn Fishers. — G. S. Newton, R.A. : Sterne and the Grisette. — P. Nasmyth : small Landscape in the manner of Hobbema. — W. Ettt, R.A. : Youtli at the Prow and Pleasure at the Helm (fine); the Bathers. — Turner, R.A.: William III. landing at Torbay ; Composition Landscape (tine) ; Two Views in Venice. Stanfield, R.A. : the Entrance to the Zuyder Zee. — Uavid Roberts, R.A.: Interior of St. Paul's at Antwerp. — T. Uwins, R.A.: Claret Vintage. — F. R. Lee, R.A.: two Landscapes. — T. Creswick, R.A. : Landscape. — Edwin Landseer, R.A.: Peace and War, companion pictures ; Highland Piper and Dogs ; Spaniels of King Charles" .s breed ; th^' Dying Stag; High Life and Low Life Dogs. — W. Mulready, R.A. ; tlie Last In; the Ford. — T. Webster, R.A. : the Dame's School. — D. Maclise, R.A. : the Play Scene in Hamlet; Malvolio and the Countess. — Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A. : Christ weeping over Jerusalem. — C. R. Leslie, R.A. : Sancho and the Duchess (Leslie's greatest work) ; Uncle Toby looking into the eye of Widow Wadman. — E. M. Ward A.R.A.: the Disgrace of Clarendon ; 'Change Alley during tlie South Sea Bubble. — J. Linnell: Landscape. — E. W. Cooke, A.R.A.: two Sea pieces. — Sidney Cooper, A.R.A. : a Cattle piece. — F. Danby, A.R.A. : Landscape. — Augustus Egg, A.R.A. : Scene from Gil Bias. — F.Goodall, A.R.A. : the Village Festival. In 1S62 two new Courts, devoted to objects of art, glazed and surrounded by cloisters, were opened to the public. A. filled with articles of value, lent for exhibition by their owucr.-s, known as the Loan Museum. B. a court devoted to objects of art — Italian, French, German, and English — purchased for the natinn, including oV)jects selected from the Campcaia Museam, formerly at Rome. Observe — Chinmeypiece by Donntello, from S. Miuiato in Florence ; B.ilcony or singiug-loft, by Eaccio d'Aguola, from a church at Florence; fragments of a Marble Pulpit, by Nic. Pii^auo; statuette from the tomb of Charh-s the P)old at Dijon ; works in terra-cotta, by Luca della Robbia and other Italian artists; carvings in ivory, stone, wooil, &c. ; majolica of all countries; enamels of Limoges, &c. ; glass; works in metal, locks, keys, armour; brouzea, &c. XIX. — DUL'U'Icn GALLERY. 173 DULWICH GALLERY, at Dulwicli, 5 m. from Waterloo Bridge, is open every day except Sundays. Hours from 10 to 5. You can reach it by omnibus from Chariug Cross and the Elephant and Castle iu Lambeth ; also by Chatham and Dover Railway. This collection, the only one freely accessible to the public which affords an opportunity of studying the Dutch masters, was founded by Sir Francis Bourgeois, R.A. (d. 1811), who left 354 pictures to the College, 10,000Z. to erect and keep iu repair a building for their reception, and 2000?. to provide for the care of the pictures. Bourgeois asked John Philip Kemble where he should build a gallery for his pictures, and Ivemble, an actor, recommended God's Gift College, at Dulwich, erected in the reign of James I. by Edward Alleyn, the keeper of the bears to James I., actor and rival of Richard Burbadge. The hint was taken, and the pre- sent Gallery attached to the College built in 1812, from the designs of Sir John Soane. The Murillos and Cuyps are especially fine. Observe — MuRiLLO : the Flower Girl, No. 248 ; Spanish Boys, Nos. 283 and 284; the Madonna del Rosario, No. 341 ; Meeting of Jacob and Rachel, No. 294.— Cuvp (in all 19) : a Landscape, No. 68 ; Banks of a Canal, No. 76 ; a Landscape, No. 169, the finest of the 19 ; Ditto, No. 192 ; Ditto, No. 239; Ditto, No. 163.— Texiers (in all 21) : a Landscape, No. 139; a Land- scape, with Gipsies, No. 155 ; the Chaff Cutter, No. 185 Ctine). — Hobbema : the Mill, No. 131. — Rembeandt : .Jacob's Dream, No. 179; a Girl leaning out of a Window, No. 206. — Rubens: Samson and Dalilah, No. 168; Mars, Venus, and Cupid, No. 351 (the Mars a portrait of Rubens himself when young); M.aria Pypeling, the Mother of Rubens, No 355. — Van Dyck : Charity, No. 124; Virgin and Child, No. 1.35; Philip, 5th Earl of I'embroke (half-length). No. 214; "The head is very delicate; the hand effaced by cleaning." — IVaagen ; Susan, Countess of Pembroke, No 134; "quite ruined by cleaning." — Waagen. — Wouvermans : View on the Sea Shore, No. 93; a Landscape, No. 173 ; Ditto, No. 228. — Berghem : a Land- scape, No. 200 ; Ditto, No. 209. — Both : a Landscape, No. 36. — Velas- gnEZ : Prince of Spain on Horseback, No. 194 Pliilip IV. of Spain (three-quarters). No. 300 Head of a Boy, No. 222. — Adrian Brouwee: Interior of a Cabai'et, No, 54. — A. Ostadb : Boors Merrj--niaking, No. 190 ; "of astonishing depth, clearness, and warmth of colour." — Waagen. — Karel du Jardyn: the Farrier's Shop, No. 229. — VanderWerff: the Judgment of Paris, No. 191. — Van IIuysum : Flowers in a Vase, No. 121 ; Flowers, No. 140. — Pynaker : a Landscape, No. 150. — Wat TEAU : le Bal Champetre, No. 210. — Titian: Europa, a Study, No. 230. — P. Veronese : St. Catherine of Alexandria, No. 268; a Cardinal, No. 3;J3.— GuERCiNo: the Woman takiu in Adultery, No. 348. — Annibal Carracci : the Adoration of the Shcplurds, No.349. — Guiuo : Europa, No. 259; Martyrdom of St. Sidjastinn, No. 339; St. John the Baptist Preaching in the Wilderness, No. .331 (line). — Caravaogio : the Lock- smith, No. 299. — Claude : Embarkation of Sa. Paula from the Port of Ostia, No. 270. — S. Rosa : a Landscape, No. 220; Soldiers Gambling, No. 271. — G. Poussix : a Landscape, No. 257. — N. PoussiN : the Inspi- ration of the Poet, No. 295; the Nursing of Jupiter, No. 300; the Triumph of David, No. 305; the Adoration of the Magi, No. 291; Rinaldo and Armida, No. 315 (fine). — Fkancesco Mola ; St. Sebastian, 174 XIX. — COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. No. 261. — Gainsborough : Mrs. Sheridan and Mrs. Tickell (full-lengths, very tine). Mrs. Sheridan was Maria Linley, the first wife of K. B. She- ridan, the dramatist, No. 1. — Opie : Portrait of Himself, No. 3. — Sir T. Lawrence : Portrait of William Linley (near No. 222). The Mrs. Slddons and his own Portrait, by Sir Joshua, are indifferent duplicates of the well-known originals in the Grosvenor Gallery and the Queen's Gallery at Windsor. In the College and Master's apartments at Dulwich, are the following interesting poi-traits : — Edward Alleyn, the founder, full-length, black dress, but much injured. Eichard Burbadge, master, " a small closet-piece ; " bequeathed by Cart- wright, the actor, in 1687. Nat Field, the poet and actor, " in his sliirt, on a board, in a black frame, tilleted with gold ; " bequeathed by Cartwright in 1687. Tom Bond, the actor ; bequeathed by Cartwright, 1687. Richard Perkins, the actor, three-quarters, long white hair ; bequeatlied by Cart- wright, 1687. Cartwi'ight (senior), one of the Prince Palatine's players, bequeathed by his son in 1687. Cartwright (junior), an actor (My picture in a black dress, with a gi-eat dog). Michael Drayton, the poet, " in a black frame ; " bequeathed by Cartwright in 1687. Lovelace, the poet, by Dobson (fine). Lovelace's Althea, with herhair dishevelled. John Greenhill, " the most promising of Lely's scholars " ( Walpole), hy himself. In the College is preserved Philip Heuslowe's Diary and Account-book, one of the most valuable documents we possess in illustration of the drama and stage in the time of Queen Elizabeth. The Revenue of Dulwich College is about 9000/. a-year. The ROYAL COLLEGE OF SURGEONS, on the S. side of Lincoln's-Inn-fields, was built, 1835, from the designs of Sir Charles Bai-ry, R.A., and is said to have cost 40,000^. The Museum is open to a Member's written order, on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays, from 12 to 4 o'clock ; except in September, when the Museum is closed. The museum of the College originated in the purchase for 15,000/., made by parliament, of the Huuterian Col- lection formed by John Hunter in 1728, at Long Calder- wood, near Glasgow ; died in St. Geoi'ge's Hospital, Loudon, in 1793. The Collection is arranged in two apartments — one called the " Physiological Department, or Noi'mal Structures;" the other the "Pathological Department, or Abnoi-mal Structures;" — the number of specimens is augmented to upwards of 23,000. 0/>serve. — Skeleton (8 feet in height) of Charles Byrne or O'Briau, the Irish giant, who died in Cockspui'-strect, in 1783, at the age of 22. He measured, when dead, 8 feet 4 inches. — Skeleton (20 inches in height) of Caroline Crachami, the Sicilian dwarf, who died in Bond-street, in 1824, in the lOtli year of her age. — Plaster-cast of the right hand of Patrick Cotter, an XIX. — COLLEGE OF SURGEONS. 175 Irish giant, wliose height, in 1802, was 8 feet 7 inches and a half. — Plaster-cast of the left hand of M. Louis, the French giant, whose height was 7 feet 4 inches.- — Skeleton of Chunee, an elephant brought to England 1810 — exhibited for a time on the stage of Covent-garden Theatre, and subsequently by Mr. Cross, at Exeter 'Change. In consequence of inflam- mation of the lai'ge pulp of one of the tusks, Chunee, in 1826, became so ungovernably violent that it was found necessaiy to kill him. Amid the shower of balls, he knelt down at the well-known voice of his keepei', to present a more vulnerable point to the soldiers employed to shoot him. — Skeleton of the megatherium, an extinct gigantic sloth; jortions of the mylodon,a gigantic extinct armadillo. — Skeleton of the gigantic extinct deer (Mcgaccros Hibcrnicus, commonly but erroneously called the '• Irish elk"), from a bed of shell marl beneath a peat-bog near Limerick. The span of the antlers is 8 feet. — Female monstrous foetus, found in the abdomen of Thomas Lane, a lad between 15 and 16 yeai's of age, at Sherborne, in Doi-setshire, June 6th, 1814. — Imper- fectly formed male foetus, found in the abdomen of John Hare, an infant between 9 and 10 months old, born May Sth, 1807. — Human female twin monster, the bodies of which are united crosswise, sacrum to sacnun ; the mother was between 16 and 17 years of age. — Intestines of Napoleon, shomng the progi'ess of the disease which cai'ried him off. — Cast in wax of the band uniting the bodies of the Siamese twins. — Iron pivot of a try-sail mast, and two ch-awings of John Toylor, a seaman, through whose chest the blunt end of the pivot was di-iven. While guiding the pivot of the try-sail mast into the main-boom, on board a brig in the London Docks, the tackle gave way, and the pivot pa.ssed obliquely through his body and penetrated the deck. He was carried to the London Hospital, where it was found that he had sustained various other injuries, but in five months he was enabled to walk from the hospital to the College of Surgeons, and back again. He returned to his duty as a seaman, and twice, at intervals of about a yeai-, revisited the College in a robust state of health. The try-sail mast was 39 feet long, and about 600 poimds in weight. — Portions of a skeleton of a rhinoceros, discovered in a limestone cavern at Oreston, near Plymouth, during the formation of the Plpnouth breakwater. — Embalmed body of the first wife of the late Martin Van Butchell, prepared at his request in Januarj', 1775, by Dr. William Hunter and Mr. Cruikshank. The method pursued in its preparation was, principally, that of injecting the vascialar system with oil of turpentine and camphorated 176 XIX. — SOANE MUSEUM. spirit of wine, and the introduction of powdered nitre and camphor into the cavity of the abdomen, &c. Wo7-ks of A rt. — Portrait of John Hunter, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; the well-known pictui'e so finely engraved by Sharp : it has sadly faded. Posthumous bust of John Hunter, by Flaxman. Bust of Cline, by Chantrey. SOANE MUSEUM, 13, Lincoln's Inn Fields, north side; formed and founded in his own house by Sir John Soane, son of a bricklayer at Reading, and architect of the Bank of England (d. 1837). The Soano Museum is open to general visitors on Wednes- days, Thursdays, and Fridays from 10 to 4 during the months of April, May, June, July, and August. Tickets are obtained on aijplicatiou at the hall and entering the name in a book. Access to the Books, Drawings, MSS., or permission to copy Pictures or other Works of Art, is to be obtained by special application to the Trustees or the Curator. The house was built in 1812, and the collection is dis- tributed over 21 rooms. There is much that is valuable, and a good deal not worth much. Every corner and passage is turned to account. On the north and west sides of the Picture-room are Cabinets, and on the south are Moveable Shuttor.s, with sufficient space between for pictures. By this arrangement, the small space of 13 feet 8 inches in length, 12 feet 4 inches in breadth, and 19 feet 6 inches high, is rendered capable of containing as many pictures as a gallery of the same height, 45 feet long and 20 feet broad. Observe — The Egyptian Sarcophagus, discovered by Bolzoni, Oct. 19th, 181G, in a tomb in the valley of Biban el Malook, near Gouruou. It is formed of one single piece of alabaster, or arragonite, measuring 9 feet 4 inches in length by 3 feet 8 inches in width, and 2 feet 8 inches in depth, and covered internally and externally with elaborate hieroglyphics. When a lamp is placed within it, the light shines through, though it is '2\ inches in thickness. On the interior of the bottom is a full-length figure, representing the Egyptian Isis, the guardian of the dead. It was purchased by Soane, from Mr. Salt, in 1824, for 2000?. The raised lid or cover, broken into nineteen fragments, lies beneath it. Sir Gardner Wilkinson considers that it is a cenotaph rather than a sarcophagus, and the name inscribed to be that of Osirei, father of Ramcses the Great. — Sixteen original sketches and models, by Flaxman, including a cast of the Shield of Achilles. — Six original sketches and models by T. Banks, XXI. — SOANE MUSKUM — EAST 1ND1A!> MUSKUM. 177 R.A., including the Boothby Monument, one of his finest works.- — A large collection of ancient gems, cntaglios, &c., under glass, and in a very good light. Set of the Napoleon, medals, selected by tlie Baron Denon for the Empress Josephine, and once in her possession. — Sir Christopher "Wren's watch. — Can-ed and gilt ivory table and four ivory chairs, formerly in Tippoo Saib's palace at Scringapatam. — Richly mounted pistol, said to have been taken by Peter the Great from the Bey, Commander of the Turkisli army at Azof, 1(596, and presented by the Emperor Alexander to Napoleon, at the Treaty of Tilsit in 1807 : Napoleon took it to St. Helena, from whence it was brought by a French officer, to whom he had presented it. — The original copy of the Gerusalemmo Liberata, in the handwriting of Tasso. — First four folio editions of Shakspeai'e (J. P. Kemble's copies). — A folio of designs for Elizabethan and James I. houses by John Thorpe, an architect of those reigns. — Faunt- leroy's Illustrated copy of Pennant's London ; purchased by Soane for 650 guineas. — Commentary on St. Paul's Epistles, illuminated by Giulio Clovio for Cardinal Grimani. — Three Canalettis — one A View on the Grand Canal of Venice, extremely fine. — The Snake in the Grass, or Love unloosing the Zone of Beauty, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; purchased at the sale of the Marchioness of Thomond's pictures, for 500^. — The Rake's Progress, by Hogarth, a series of 8 pictures ; purchased by Soane in 1802 for 598Z. — 1. The Rake comes to his Fortune ; 2. The Rake as a Fine Gentleman ; 3. The Rake in a Bagnio ; 4. The Rake Arrested ; 5. The Rake's Marriage ; 6. The Rake at the Gaming Table ; 7. The Rake in Prison ; 8. The Rake in Bedlam. — The Election, by Hogarth, a series of four pictures ; purchased by Soane, at Mrs. Garrick's sale in 1823, for 1732^. 10s. — Admiral Tromp's Barge entering the Texel, by J. M. W. Turner, R.A. — Portrait of Napoleon in 1797, by Francesco Goma. — Miniature of Napoleon, painted at Elba in 1811, by Isahey. — In the Dining-room is a portrait of Soane, by Sir T. Lawrence ; and in the Gallery under the dome, a bust of him by Sir F. Chantrey. The EAST INDIAN MUSEUM, removed from the East India Company's House, Lcadcnhall-street, is placed tempo- rarily in Fife-house, Whitehall-yard, once the residence of Lord Liverpool, prime minister. It is open to the public, Mon- day, Wednesday, and Friday, 10 to 4. It contains not only antiquities and historical relics, but also an assemblage of the chief natural productions of India, with specimens of t]ie N 178 XIX.— EAST INDIAN MUSEUM. arts aud manufactures, and illustrations of the indiistry, manners, and customs of the various races. In the Garden are placed some of the marbles from the mined temple of Amravjutti relating to Buddha aud his worship, sculptures of elaborate execution. In the EntrancchaU are statues of Wellington (by Xoble) ,Clive, Hastings, Coote, Wellesley and others distinguished in India (by Flaxman). The Staircase is hung with picture?. In the Model Room are implements, tools, dwellings, machinery, a Kulcherrie, or Law Coui-t. Among industrial products are paper made of different fibres and leaves, metal-work, jewelry, Trichinopoly chains and filigree-work, precious stones, silver armlets and bangles, lacquered ware. Next follow pottery, stone, and inlaid work. In arms and arinour the collection is rich and curious ; the Ghoorkas' knives, the Rajpoots' swords, the Santals' spears and shields, native artillery, ancient wall pieces on the plan of Colt's revolver, camel-gvms, cannon. Among textile fabrics are the shawls of Cashmere (of goaL-s' wool) ; muslins of Dacca; Kincob fabrics from Tanjore ; embroideries and brocades in gold and silver thread. The arts of India are exhibited in carvings of ivory, (in- cluding mats and rugs made of cut fibres of elephants' tusks) figures of ivory, costumes, chessmen of most elabo- rate workmanship, articles of buffalos' and other horns. Carvings in wood. The golden chair of state of Runjeet Singh. A model of the Car of Juggernaut. Sculptured images of Hindoo Worship. Observe. — Large drawing of old East India House. Hindu idols iu silver and gold, and stone. Pair of gauntlets made at Lahore, sometimes used by the native chiefs and horsemen in India (beautifully elaborate). The "Tigei-'s Claws " of steel, made to be worn on the fingers and concealed within the closed hand, with which the Mahratta chief Sivagce tore to pieces his enemy Afzal Khan, in the act of embracing him. Sword of the executioner attached to the palace of the King of Candy (taken at the capture of Candy). Piece of wood of the ship " Farquharson," containing the homs of a fish called the monodon ; the largest horn had penetrated through the copper sheathing and outside lining into one of the floor timbere. An emblematic organ (a tiger devouring a man), contrived for the amusement of Tippoo Sultan. Surya, the Sun, in his seven-horse car. Buddhist idols and relics. The state howdah of Durgiiu Sal, usurper of Bhurtpore. Baljy- lonian inscription on stone, in cuneiform chai'acters ! The upper rooms are occupied with a collection of the birds of India, properly classified. The kitchen is filled with stuffed XIX. — UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM. 179 beasts. The coins (a most valuable collection) can only be seen by special permission. Hoole, the translator of Tasso; Charles Lamb, author of Elia ; and James Mill, the historian of British India ; were clerks in the East India House. "My printed works," said Lamb, " were my recreations — my true works may be found on the shelves in Leadenhall-street, filling some hundred folios." This turns out to have been a fiction or a joke. The East Indian records show not the least trace of any work done by Charles Lamb. 70,000 vols, of records were sold for waste paper, 186L The Lihrary of the East India House has been transferred to Cannon-row west, and occupies part of the old Board of Control. It is both extensive and valuable, including 8000 vols, of MSS. (3000 Sanscrit), formerly at Haileybury ; Warren Hastiugs' copy of the Shah Nama ; Tippoo Sultan's Koran, his Autobiography, and interi^rotation of his own dreams : Miniature Koi'aus, Koran in Cufu characters, one taken to India by Tamerlane ; seals and autograph of Nina and other oriental sovereigns. UNITED SERVICE MUSEUM, Middle Scotland Yard, Whitehall. Founded 1830, as a central repository for objects of professional arts, science, natural history, books and documents relating to those objects, and for the deli- verj' of lectures on appropriate subjects. Admission, by Member's order, or free tickets ; to be had of Mr. Sanfoi'd, 6, Charing Cross : April to September, from 11 to 5 ; winter months, from 11 to 4. The Museum contains much that will repay a visit. Observe. — Baskot-hilted cut-and-thrust sword, used by Oliver Cromwell at the siege of Drogheda (1649), — the blade bears the marks of two musket-balls ; sword worn by General Wolfe when he fell at Quebec (1759) ; sash used in carrying Sir John Moore from the field, and lowering him into his grave on the ramparts at Coiimua; model of battle of Trafalgar, sword, and otiicr relics of Nelson; part of the deck of the Victory on which Nelson fell ; rudder of the Royal Georrje sunk at Spithead; skeleton of Marengo, the barb-horse which Napoleon rode at Waterloo. On the first floor are Captain Siborne's elaborate and faithful model of the field and battle of Waterloo, containing 190,000 metal figtxres ; Col. Hamilton's model of Sebastopol ; the signal-book of the United States' ship Chesapeake, captured by th& Sltannon, ; Captain Cook's chronometer; Sir Francis Drake's walking-stick ; Arctic relics of Sir John Franklin. The members are above 4000 in number. Entrance-fee, 1?.; annual subscription, 10s.; life subscrijition, 61. N 2 180 XIX. — MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, MUSEUM OF PRACTICAL GEOLOGY, Nos. 28 to 32, Jermtn Street (Director Sir Rodk. Impey Murchison, F.R.S., P.R.G.S., &c.), established 1835, in consequence of a repre- sentation to tlie Government by Sir Henry de la Beche, C.B. that the geological survey, then under the Ordnance, and in progi-ess in Cornwall, possessed great opportunities of illustrating the application of geology to the useful purposes of life. The collections were at first placed in Craig's-court, Charing-cross, but they augmented so rapidly, chiefly from donations, that a larger building became necessary for them, and the present handsome and well- contrived Museum (Mr. Pennethorne, architect) was opened in 1851. The best use has been made of the space, and a building better fitted for its purposes could not have been devised. It cost 30,000/. The Museum is a School of Mines, similar, as far as circumstances permit, to the Ecole des Mines and other institutions of the like kind on the Continent. Already a very valuable collection of mining records has been formed. The collections illustrate the mineral products of every part of the United Kingdom and Colonies, including the marbles, porphyries, building-stones, &c., &c., with complete series of fossils, ores, and minerals. There are beautiful specimeus of polished vases, statues, inlaid floors of mosaics, of native substances and manufacture. They compi'ise illustrations of the application of geology to the useful purposes of life; numerous models of mining works, mining machinery, metal- lurgical processes, and other operations, with needful maps, sections, and drawings, aiding a proper and comprehensive view of the general subject. Pottery and porcelain, a very good collection, historically an-anged. The Lecture Theatre holds 450 persons, and evening lectures to working men, illustrative of the collections in the Museum, are delivered in it every season. The collections are gratuitously open to public inspection every week-day, except Fridays. THE MISSIONARIES' MUSEUM, Bloomfield Street, MOORFIELDS, comprises a collection of objects of Natural History, and the original idols of the natives of the South Seas, prior to the introduction of Christianity : also other curiosities from the various regions to which the influence of the Missionary Society extends ; the club with which Williams the missiimary was slain. The Museum is open for public inspection, free, on Tuesdays, Tlmrsdays, and Satur- days, from 10 to 4, from March 25th to September 2yth; the rest of the year from 10 to 3. XX. — DRURY LANE THEATRE. 181 XX.-THEATRES AND PLACES OF AMUSEMENT. HER MAJESTY'S THEATRE, or tlie Opera House, in the Haymarket. This, the largest theatre in Europe, except that of La Scala at Milan, and the second theatre on the same site, was built (1790) from the design of Michael Novosielski, and altered and enlarged by Nash and Reptou in 1816-18. The first theatre on the site was built and established (1705) by Sir John Vanbrugh, and burnt down in 1789. Many of the double boxes on the ground tier have sold for as much as 7000?. and 8000Z. ; a box on the pit tier has sold for 4000Z. The successful rivalry of the other Opera Houses have caused this house to be closed for several seasons past. It was here that Jenny Lind sang. The Crush Room at the Opera, so called from its crowded character, adjoins the avenue leading to the' pit. COVENT GARDEN THEATRE, or The Royal Italian Opera, on the west side of Bow-street, Covent-garden, is the third theatre on the same spot. The second of these was opened (1809) at "new prices:" hence the 0. P. (Old Prices) Row. In 1847, it was converted into an Italian Opera. This noble theatre (the finest in London) was destroyed, 5th March, 1856, by accidental fire. The present building (E. M. Barry, ai-chitect) was finished in the space of 6 months, 1858. It is nearly as capacious as the Scala Theatre in Milan, the largest in Europe. It will hold 2000 persons. Italian Operas are performed here in summer, commencing at 85. The statues of Tragedy and Comedy, and the two bas-reliefs on the Bow-street front, are by Flaxmau. A new Flower Market, on the plan of the Crystal Palace, was built at the side of this Theatre, 1859, and opened 1861. DRURY LANE THEATRE (Mr. B. Wyatt, son of James Wyatt, architect), is the oldest existing theatre in London. The present edifice, tlie fourth on the same site, was erected and opened, 1812, with a prologue by Lord Byron. The portico towards Brydges-street was added during the lessee- ship of EUiston (1819-26), and the colonnade in Little Russell-street a few years after. Since the close of Mr. Macready's season, June 14th, 1843, the glories of Old Drury may be said to have departed, several lessees quitting the concern with a loss. Within the vestibule is a marble statue of Edmund Kean as Hamlet, by Carew. It is like — but the attraction of Kean in Hamlet was the witchery of his voice. The present lessee is Mr. E. T. Smith. 182 XX. — princess's theatre. The HAYMARKET THEATRE (over against the Opera House in the Hatmarket) was built by Nash, and publicly opened July 4th, 1821. It stands on a piece of gi-ound immediately adjoining a former theatre of the same name, and is still distinguished in the play-bills as " the Little Theatre." The lessee is Mr. Buckstone, the well-known actor. Prices of admission : — ^Orchestra Stalls, 5s. ; Dress Cii-cle and Boxes, 5s. ; Pit, 3s. Half-price at 9. The ADELPHI THEATRE, over against Adam Street, in the Strand, was re-built (1858). The original edifice was a speculation of one Mr. John Scott, a colour-maker. The entertainments consisted of a mechanical and optical exhi- bition, with songs, recitations, and imitations ; and the talents of Miss Scott, the daughter of the proprietor, gave a profitable tm-n to the undertaking. The old.fi-out to- wards the Strand was a mere house-front. When " Tom and Jerry," by Pierce Egau, appeared for the first time (Nov. 26tb, 1821), Wrench as "Tom," and Reeve as "Jerry," the little Adelphi, as it Avas then called, became a favourite with the public. Its fortunes varied under different manage- ments. Teny and Yates became (1825) the joint lessees and managers. Terry was backed by Sir Walter Scott and his friend Ballantyue, the printer, but Scott, in the sequel, had to pay for both Ballantyue and himself. Charles Mathews, in conjunction with Yates, leased the theatre, and gave here (1828-31) his series of inimitable "At Homes." Here John Reeve drew large houses, and obtained his reputa- tion ; and here Mr. Benjamin Webster (the present lessee), maintains the former character of the establishment. Prices of admission ; — Boxes, 4s. ; Pit, 2s. The ROYAL LYCEUM THEATRE, or Rotal Italian Opera, is in the Strand, at the corner of Upper Wellington- .street ; it was built, 1834, by S. Beazley, architect (d. 1851). The interior decorations were made in Madame Vestris's time (1847), and are very beautiful. The theatre derives its name fi-om an academy or exhibition room, built 1765, for the Society of Arts, by Mr. James Payne, architect. It was first converted into a theatre in 1790, and into an English Opera House by Mr. Arnold in 1809. The preceding theatre (also the work of Mr. Beazley) was destroved by fire, Feb. 16th, 1830. The PRINCESS'S THEATRE is in Oxford Street, nearly opposite the Pantheon. Built 1830 ; let to Mr. Maddox on lease at 2,600/. per annum, but underlet (1854) to Charles XX. — astley's, 183 Keau at a greater rental, and is one of the best theatres in Loudou for the purposes of a manager and the interests of the public. Prices of admissio7i : —Dress Circle, 5s.; Boxes, is. ; Pit, 2s. Tlie property is held under the Duke of Port- laud for a term of 60 years, from July, ] 820, at a very low ground rent. SADLER'S WELLS THEATRE, long a well-known place of public amusement : first a music-house, and so called from a spring of mineral water, discovered by one Sadler, in 1683, in the garden of a house which he had opened as a public music-room, and called " Sadler's Music House." The New River flows past the theatre, and on occasions has been carried under the stage, and the flooring removed, for the exhibition of aquatic performances. Here Grimaldi, the famous clo-mi, achieved his greatest triumphs. This admirable little theatre has for some years maintained a well-deserved celebrity for the i^erformance of the plays of Shakspeare, Beaumont and Fletcher, Massinger, &c., in a way worthy of a larger theatre, and a richer, but not more crowded or enthusiastic audience. ASTLEY'S AMPHITHEATRE, Westminster Bridge Road, a theatre and equestrian circus, the fourth building of the same nature on the same site. The first amphitheatre on this spot was a mere temporary erection of deal boards, built (1774) by Philip Astley, a light-horseman in the 15th. or General Elliot's regiment. It stood on whtit was then an open piece of ground in St. George's Fields, through which the New Cut ran, and to which a halfpenny hatch led. Astley himself, said to have been the handsomest man in England, was the chief performer, assisted by a drum, two fifes, and a clown of the name of Porter. At first it was an open area. In 1780, it was convei'ted into a covered amphitheatre, and divided into pit, boxes, and gallery. The entertainment, at first, was only a day exhibition of horse- manship. Ti-auspareut fire-works, slack-rope vaulting, Egyp- tian Pyramids, tricks on chaii's, tumbling, &c., were sub- sequently added, the ride enlarged, and the house opened in the evening. Astley's amphitheatre has been thi-ice de- stroyed by fire— in 1794, in 1803, and in 1841. " Base Buonapavt&, fiU'd with deadly ire, Sets, one by one, our playhouses on fire. Some years ago he pounced with deadly glee on The Opera House, then burnt down the Pantheon; Thy hatch, () Halfpenny! pass'd in a trice. Boil'd some black pitch, and burnt down Astley's twice." Rejected Addresses. 184 XX. — EXETER HALL. Mr. Ducrow, who had been one of Astley's riders and became manage!', died insane soon after the fire in 1841. Old Astley, died in Taris, 1814. For the equestrian performances in the circus you need not go before 9 at night. Mr. Boucicault, author of Colleen Bawn, has taken this theatre. The VICTORIA THEATRE is in Waterloo Bridge KoAD, Lambeth. It was originally The Cohurrj, and called The Victoria for the first time soon after the accession of William IV., when her present Majesty was only heir pre- sumptive to the crown. The gallery at the " Vic " (for such is its bi-ief cognomen about Lambeth) is one of the largest in London. It will hold from 1500 to 2000 people, and runs back to so great a distance that the end of it is lost in shadow, excepting where the little gas-jets, against the wall, light up the two or three fices around them. "WHien the gallery is well packed, it is usual to see piles of boys on each other'a shoidders at the back, while on the partition-boards, dividing off the slips, lads will perch themselves despite the spikes. The SURREY THEATRE, in Elackfriars Road, was built (1805-6) on the site of a former edifice destroyed by fire in 1805. Elliston leased it for a time; and, subse- quently, the late Mr. Davidge acquired a handsome for- tune by his management. John Palmer, the actor (d. 1798), played here while a prisoner within the Rules of the King's Bench. The large sums he received, aud the way in which he squandered his money, is said to have suggested the clause in the then Debtors' Act, which made all public-houses aud places of amusement out of the Rules. This house is chiefly supported by the inhabitants of Southwark and Lambeth. The ST. JAMES'S THEATRE is a small neat edifice, on the south side of King Street, St. James's, built by Beazley for Braham, the singer. During the summer it is usually appropriated to the jjerformances of a French company of actors, and in the height of the London season is well frequented. The prices of admission vary every season. To the above list of theatres may be added the Olympic and Garrick. EXETER HALL, in the Strand. A large proprietary building on the N. side of the Strand, built (1831) from the designs of J. P. Deering, but altered in the ceiling aud lengthened about 40 feet, in 1850, by Mr. S. W. Daukes. The Hall is 131 feet long, 76 feet wide \i. e. 8 feet wider than Westminster Hall), and 45 feet high; and will contain, in XX. — ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS. 185 comfort, more tliau 3000 persons. It is let for the annual ' May Meetings " of the several religious societies, and for the concerts of the Sacred Harmonic Society, in which tlie un- rivalled music of Handel is at times performed, with a cliorus of 700 voices accompanying it. Tickets may be had at the principal music-sellers, and at offices adjoining the Hall. ST. JAMES'S HALL, Piccadilly and Eegent's Quadrant, contains a sumptuous Hall for public meetings, religious services, concerts, or dinners, 139 feet long and 60 feet high, designed and decorated by Owen Jones. The lighting, by means of pendant gas drops from the roof, is very elegant. A restaurant occupies the lower story of the building. ST. MARTIN'S HALL, Long Acre. A place for monthly concerts, «&c. Erected in 1850 for Mr. John HuUah; was burned down 1860. ALMACK'S is a suite of Assembly-rooms in King Street, St. James's, built (1765) by Robert Mylne, architect, and called Almack's after the original proprietor, and occasionally " Willis's Rooms," after the present proprietor. The balls called "Almack's," for which these rooms are famous, are managed by a Committee of Ladies of high rank, and the only mode of admission is by vouchers or personal introduc- tion. Almack kept the Thatched House Tavern, St. James's- street, on the site of which stands the Conservative Club. The rooms are let for concerts, general meetings, and public balls. The ZOOLOGICAL GARDENS, in Regent's Park, be- long to the Zoological Society of London, instituted in 1826, for the advancement of Zoology, and the introduction and exhibition of the Animal Kingdom alive or properly pre- served. The principal founders were Sir Humphi'y Davy and Sir Stamford RatHes. Visitors are admitted to the Gardens of the Society without orders on Monday in every week, at &d. each ; on the following days at Is. each ; children at 6rf. The Gardens are open from 9 in the morning till sunset. On Sundays they are open to Members only, and two friends personally introduced. The rooms of the Society are at No. 11, Hanover-square. A member's fee on admission is 51., and his annual subscription Zl. These Gardens are among the best of our Loudon sights, and should be seen by eveiy stranger in Loudon. The giraffes, Elend-sloth, Birds of Paradise, and many other species have been first shown alive in these Gardens, but the great attractions of the Gardens have been a pair of Hippopotami, presented by the Viceroy 186 XXI. — ROYAL SOCIETY. of Egypt, the first ever brought to this country, the Elephant Calf, the Apteryx from Xew Zealand, and the Vivarium, or Aquarium, of livmg fishes and other marine and freshwater animals, is a very interesting exhibition. The collection of living snakes is the largest ever formed in Europe. The band of the Life Guards is to be heard here in summer on Saturday at 4. The pelicans are fed at half-past 2 ; otters at 3 ; eagles at half-pasb 3 (Wednesdays excepted) ; and liona and tigers at 4 p.m. The annual expenditure for Gai'dens and Museum exceeds £14,000. XXl.-LEARNED INSTITUTIONS. The ROYAL SOCIETY, in Borlington House, Picca- dilly, was incorporated by royal charter in 1663, King Charles II. and the Duke of York (James II.) entering their names as members of tlie Society. IJike thQ Society of Antiquaries, and many other institutions, this celebrated Society (boast- ing of tlie names of Newton, Wren, Halley, Herschel, Davy, and Watt, among its members) originated in a small attendance of men engaged in the same pursuits, and dates its beginning from certain weekly meetings held in London, as early as the year 1645. The merit of suggesting such meetings is assigned by Wallis (himself a foundation member) to Theodore Haak, a German of the Palatinate, then resident in London. Tlie Civil War interrupted their pursuits for a time ; but with the Restoration of the King, a fresh accession of strength was obtained, new members enlisted, and the charter of incor2:>oratiou granted. The Society consists at present of about 766 " Fellows," and the letters F.R.S. are generally appended to the name of a member. The present entrance money is 10?. and the annual subscription U. ; members are elected by ballot, upon the nomination of 6 or more fellows. The patron saint of the Society is St. Andrew, and the anniversaxy meeting is held evei-y 30th of November, being St. Andi-ew's Day. The So- ciety possesses some interesting portraits. Observe. — Three portraits of Su- Isaac Newton — one by C. Jeitas, presented by Newton himself, and properly suspended over the President's chair — a second in the Library, by D. C. Marchand — and a third in the Assistant Secretary's Office, by Vanderbank ; two portraits of Halley, by Thomas Murray and J)ahl ; two of Hobbes — one taken in 1663 by, says Aubre, "a good XXI. — UOYAL ACADEMY. 187 hand" — and the other by Oaspars, presented by Aubrey; Su- Christopher Wren, by Kneller ; Wallis, by Boest ; FLam- stead, by Gih&on ; Robert Boyle, by F. Kcrsthomii, (Evelyn says it is like); Pepys, by Kncllcr, presented by Pepys; Lord Somers, by Kneller ; Sir R. Southwell, by Kneller ; Sir H. Spelman, the antiquary, by Myteiis (how it came here I know not); Sir Hans Sloaue, by Kneller ; Dr. Birch, by Wills, the original of the mezzotint done by Faher in 1741, be- queathed by Bhch ; Martin Folkes, by Hogarth ; Dr. WoUas- ton, by Jackson ; Sir Humphry Davy, by Sir T. Lawrence. Observe also. — Tlie mace of silver gilt (similar to the maces of the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker, and President of the College of Physicians), presented to the Society by Charles IL in 1662. The belief so long entertained that it was the mace or " bauble," as Cromwell called it, of the Long Parlia- ment, has been completely refuted by the original warrant of the year 1662, for the special making of this very mace. — A solar dial, made by Sir Isaac Newton when a boy; a reflecting telescope, made in 1671, by Newton's own hands ; MS. of the Principia, in Newton's own hand-writing ; lock of Newton's hair, silver white ; MS. of the Parentalia, by young Wren; Charter Book of the Society, bound in crimson velvet, containing the signatures of the Founder and Fellows ; a Rumford fire-place, one of the first set up ; original model of Sir Humphry Davy's Safety Lamp, made by his own hands; marble bust of Mrs. Somerville, by Chantrey. The Society possesses a Donation Fund, esta- blished to aid men of science in their researches, and distributes four medals : a Rumford gold medal, two Royal medals, and a Copley gold medal, called by Davy " the ancient olive crown of the Royal Society." The Society removed from Somerset House to Burlington House in 1856. ROYAL ACADEMY OF ARTS, Trafalgar Square, under the same roof as the National Gallery, constituted 1768. Its principal objects are — 1. The establishment of a well-regu- lated " School, or Academy of Design," for the gratuitous in- struction of students in the art; and, 2. An "annual exhibi- tion," open to all artists of distinguished merit, where they may ofler their performances to public inspection, and acquire that degree of i-eputation and encouragement which they may be deemed to deserve. It is "a pi'ivate society, supporting a school that is open to the public." The members are under the superintendence and control of the Queen only, who confirms all appointments ; and the society itself consists of 40 Royal Academicians (including 188 XXI. — ROYAL ACADEMY. a President), 20 Associates, and 6 Associate Engravers. The Royal Academy derives the -whole of its funds from the produce of its annual exhibition, to which the price of admission is Is., and the catalogue Is. The average annual receipts ai-e about 6000Z. The annual Exlahilion of Pictures hy Living Artists opens the first Monday in May, and works intended for exhibition must be sent in a month before. No works which have been already exhibited ; no copies of any kind (excepting paintings on enamel); no mere transcripts of the objects of natural history ; no vignette portraits, nor any drawings without backgrounds (escej^ting architectural designs), can be received. No artist is allowed to exhibit more than 8 different works. Honorary exhibitoi's (or unprofessional artists) are limited to one. All works sent for exhi- bition are submitted to the approval or rejection of the council, whose decision is final, and may be ascertained by application at the Academy in the week after they have been left there. Admission of Students. — Any person desiring to become a student of the Royal Academy presents a drawing or model of his own performance to the keeper, which, if con- sidered by him a proof of sufficient ability, is laid before the Council, together with a testimony of his moral character, from an Academician, or other known person of respectability. If these are approved by the Council, the candidate is per- mitted to make a drawing or model from one of the antique figures in the Academy, and the space of three months from the time of receiving such permission is allowed for that purpose ; the time of his attendance is from 10 o'clock in the morning until 3 in the afternoon. This drawing or model, when finished, is laid before the Council, accompanied with outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not less than two fett high, with lists and references, on each drawing, of the several muscles, tendons, and bones contained therein, together with the drawing or model originally presented for his admission as a probationer: if approved, the candidate is accepted as a student of the Royal Academy, and receives in form the ticket of his admission from the hand of the keeper in the Antique School. If the specimen presented be rejected by the Council, he is not allowed to continue drawing in the Academy. The rule for architectural students is of a like character. The first president was Sir Jo.shua Reynolds— the present president is Sir Charles Lock Eastlake. The 10th of February is the day on which the vacancies in the list of XXI. — ROYAL ACADEMY OK MCSIC. 189 Royal Acadcmiciaus are filled up ; November the month for elcctiug Associates, and the 10th of December the day for the annual distribution of prizes. The Royal Academy possesses a fine library of books of prints, and a large collection of casts from the antique, and several interesting pictures by old masters. Tlie libraiy is open to the students. Each mem- ber on his election presents a picture, or a work of art, of hia own design and execution, to the collection of the Academy. The series thus obtained is interesting in the history of British art. Observe among the Diploma pictures. — Portraits of Sir Wm. Chambers, the architect, of George III., and of Reynolds in his Doctor's Robes, bj^ Reynolds (all vei-y fine) ; Boys digging for a rat, by Sir David Wilkie. Worlcs of Art in the possession of the Academy. — 1. Cartoon of the Holy Family, in black chalk, by L. Da Vinci ; executed with extreme care, the Holy Virgin is represented on the lap of St. Anne, her mother ; she bends down tenderly to tlie infant Christ, who plays with a lamb. 2. Bas-relief, in marble, of the Holy Familj', by Michael Angela ; presented by Sir George Beaumont. St. John is presenting a dove to the child Jesus, who shrinks from it and shelters himself in the arms of his mother, who seems gently re- proving St. John for his hastiness, and putting him back with her hand. The child is finished and the mother in great part : the St. John is only sketched, but in a most masterly style. 3. Copy, in oil, of Da Vinci's Last Supper (size of the original), by Marco d'Oggione, a scholar of Leonardo, and is very valuable, perhaps representing more exactly Leonardo's grand design than the original itself in its present mutilated state at Milan. This was formerly in the Certosa at Pavia. 4. Marble bust of Wilton, the sculjitor, by Rouhiliac. The mode of obtaining admission to view these pictures, &c., is by a written application to the keeper. ROYAL ACADEMY OF MUSIC, 4, Tenterden Street, Hanover Square. Founded (1822) by the late Earl of Westmoreland, who confided its organisation and general direction to Bochsa, the composer and harpist, at that time director to the Italian Opera in London. This is an academy, with in-door and out-door Students, the in-door paying 50 guineas at which some eminent pei'son is invited to deliver a popular lectui'e on some subject connected with science, art, or literature, are well attended. Non-subscribers may be admitted to them by a ticket signed by a member. In the Laboratorj'. Davy made his great discoveries on the metallic bases of the earths, aided by the large galvanic apparatus of the establishment. Hence sprung also Fara- day's remarkable researches. SOCIETY OF AETS, in John Street, Adelphi. is an old society, trying to regain strength and to accomplish greater good than it seems likely to effect. Many of the dn-ectors were intimately connected witli the Great International Exhibitions, in 1851 and 1862. Here are temporary exhi- bitions of manufactures, and six pictures by James Barry, painted 1777-83, and creditable to the then state of art in England. ROYAL SOCIETY OF LITERATURE. 4, St. Martin's Place, Charing Crcss. Founded in 1823, " for the advance- ment of literature," and incorporated 1826. George IV. gave 1100 guineas a-year to this Society, which lias the merit of rescuing the last years of Coleridge's life from complete dependence on a friind, and of placing the learned Dr. Jamieson above the wants and necessities of a n;an fast sinking to the grave. The annual grant of 1100 guineas was discontin^ied by William IV., and the Society has since sank into a Transaction Society, with a small but increasing library. The opposition of Sir Walter Scott to the formation of a literary society of this kind was highly injurious to its success. " The immediate and direct favour of the sove- reign," says Scott, " is worth the patronage of ten thousand societies." XXI. — ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY. 1D5 LONDON INSTITUTION, Finsbury Circus, Moor- fields. A proprietaiy iustitutiou, established in 1806, iu Sir William Clayton's house, Old Jewry. The first stone of the present edifice was laid May 4, 1815, and the building (which is handsome and very suitable to its pur- pose) was opened 1819. Architect, NV. Brooks, who also built Finsbury Chapel, &c. The library, consisting of up' wards of 60,000 volumes, is particulai'ly rich iu topogra- phical works. The collector and antiquary, William Uj^cott, ■was one of its librarians. GEOLOGICAL SOCIETY OF LONDON, Somerset House. Established 1807. The Museum of geological speci- mens, fossils, &c., not only British, but from all quarters of the globe, is extensive, though not perfectly arranged. It may be seen by the introduction of a member. The museum and library are open every day from 11 till 5. The number of Fellows is about 875. They meet for perusal of papers and for scientific discussions, at Burlington House, at half- past 8 o'clock in the evening of alternate Wednesdays, from November to June inclusive. The Society publishes its Transactions, which now adopt the form of a quarterly- journal. Entrance money, 6 guineas; annual subscription, 3 guineas. ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY, 15, Whitehall- Place, established 1830, for the improvement and ditfusiou of geographical knowledge. Elections by ballot. Entrance fee, 31. ; annual subscription, 21. There is a good geogra- phical library,, and large collection of maps. Afeetinr/s where papers on geographical discoveries are read — every other Mon day, from November to July, at 8 p.m, in Burlington House. ROYAL ASIATIC SOCIETY, 5, New Burlington Street, (founded 182-3,) contains an interesting collection of Oriental arms and armour. Observe. — The Malay spears mounted with gold; tlie pair of Coylonese jingals, or grasshoppers, mounted with silver, taken in the Khaudyan war of 1815 ; a complete suit of Persian armour, inlaid with gold ; a Bengal sabre, termed a kharg ; Ceyloncso hog-spears, and Lahore arrows ; a sculptured column of great beauty, from the gateway of a temple in Mahoro ; and statues of Durga, Surga, and Buddha, that deserve attention. The Society usually meets on the first and third Saturdays in every month, from November to Jime inclusive. Admission fee, 5 guineas; annual subscription, 3 guineas. o 2 196 XXII. — COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. A large City like Loudon, the centre as it may be called of human intelligence, contaius Institutions for the advance- ment of every species of knowledge. EOYAL HORTICULTURAL SOCIETY, South Ken- sington, adjoining the Great Exhibition Building, It 62, and opposite to the South Kensington Museum, has here an Ornamental and Experimental Garden, laid out at a cost of 70,000/., including a Hall, where meetings and flower exhibitions are held. On the N. rises a gi-eat glass house and other conservatories, elegant parterres varied with shi'ubberies, and single trees transplanted from a distance. The whole is surrounded by a colonnade and cloister of good architectural design; finished 1861, at the cost of the Government, who agreed to expend on it 50,O0OZ. The grounds were laid out by Nesfield ; the buildings designed by Digby W'yatt. Their extent is 22 acres, forming part of the Kensington Gore estate, purchased out of the surplus fund arising from the Great Exhibition of 1851. The Society retains an Experimental Garden at Chiswick. Each Fellow can introduce personally two frieuHs to the Garden at S. Kensington, except on Exhibition Days. Open daily 9 to dusk. Sundays from 2 p m. The Lhincean Society, Burlington House ; Royal Astrono- mical Society in Somerset House; and the Statistical Society, No. 12, St. James's Stpiare. There are also Societies for printing books connected with particular subjects, such as the Camden, Hakluyt, and Arundel, Old Bond Street, for engi'aving the works of early Italian and German masters. At No. 12, St. James's Square, is the admirably managed London Library, a public subscription circulating library, of valuable standard works, possessing 60,000 volumes — ■ entrance fee, (Jl. ; annual subscription, 21. There is a printed catalogue of the library. XXII.-COLLEGES AND SCHOOLS. UNIVERSITY OF LONDON, Burlingtox House, Picca DILLY, is a government institution, or Board of Examiners, established 1837, for conferring degrees, atter careful examina- tions, on the gi-aduates of University College, Loudon King's College, London ; Stepney College, Higlibury College Homertou College, &c. ; in other words, " for the advance- pient of religion and moraUty, and the promotion of useful SXn. — UNIVERSITY COLLEGE. 197 knowledge without distinction of rank, sect, or party." Tliere are several scholarships attached, each with 50/. a year. The salary of the Registrar and Treasurer is 500/. a year. The institute has nothing to do with the business of education, being constituted for the sole purpose of ascertaining the proficiency of candidates for academical distinctions. The examinations are half-yearly. UNIVERSITY COLLEGE, London, on the east side of Upper GowePv Street. A proprietary institution, " for the general advancement of literatvu-e and science, by affording to young men adequate oi^portunities for obtaining literary and scientific education at a moderate expense ; " founded (182S) by the exertions of Lord Brougham, Thomas Cami^bell, the poet, and others, and built from the designs of W. Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Gallery and of St. George's Hospital at Hyde-Park-corner. Graduates of the University of London from University College are entitled Doctors of Laws, Masters of Arts, Bachelors of Law, Bachelors of Medicine, and Bachelors of Art. Everything is taught in the College but divinity. The school of medicine is de- servedly distinguished. The Junior School, under the government of the Council of the College, is entered by a separate entrance in Upper Gower-street. The hours of attendance are from a quarter past 9 to three-quarters past 3 ; in which time one hour and a quarter is allowed for recreation. The yearly payment for each pupil is 18^. The subjects taught are reading, writing ; the English, Latin, Greek, French, and German languages ; Ancient and English history ; geography, both physical and political ; arithmetic and book-keeping, the elements of mathematics and of natui'al philosophy, drawing, dancing, &c. The disci- pline of the school is maintained without corporal punish- ment. The extreme punishment for misconduct is the removal of the pupil from the school. Several of the pro- fessors, and some of the masters of the Junior School receive students to reside with them ; and in the office of the College there is kept a register of parties unconnected with the College who receive boarders into their families : among these are several medical gentlemen. The Registrar will afford information as to terms, and other pai'ticulars. The Flaxman Museum. — In the hall under the cupola of the College the original models are preserved of the prin- cipal plaster works, statues, bas-reliefs, &c., of John Flaxman, R.A., the greatest of our English sculptors. The Pastoral Apollo, the St. Michael, and some of the bas-reliefs, aro 198 XXII. — ST. Paul's school. amazingly fine. The clever portrait statue in marble of Flax- man, by the late M. L. Watson, purchased by public sub- scription, is placed on the stairs as you enter the Flaxman Gallery. KING'S COLLEGE AND SCHOOL. A proprietary in- stitution, occupying the east wing of Somerset House, which was Ijuilt up to receive it, having been before left incomjjlete. The College was founded in 1828, upon the following funda- mental principle : — " That every system of general education for the yovith of a Christian community ought to comprise instruction in the Christian religion as an indispensable part, without which the acquisition of other branches of knowledge will be conducive neither to the hapi^iness of the individual nor the welfare of the state." The general education of the College is carried on in five dejDartments : — 1. Theological Department ; 2. Department of General Literature and Science ; 3. Department of the Api^lied Sciences ; 4. Medical Dei)artment ; 5. The School. Every person wishing to place a pupil in the school must produce, to the head-master, a cer- tificate of good conduct, signed by his last instructor. The general age for admission is from 9 to 16 years of age. Eooms are provided within the walls of the College for the residence of a limited number of matriculated students. Each proprietor has the privilege of nominating two pupils to the School, or one to the School and one to the College at the same time. The Museum contains the Calculating Machine of Mr. Babbage, deiiosited by the Commissioners of the Woods and Forests ; and the collection of Mechanical Models and Philosophical Instruments formed by George III., presented by Queen Victoria. ST. PAUL'S SCHOOL. A celebrated school in St. Paul's Churchyard (on the east side), founded in 1512, for 153 poor men's children, by Dr. John Colet, Dean of St. Paul's, the friend of Erasmus, and son of Sir Henry Colet, mercer, and Mayor of London in 1486 and 1495. The boys were to be taught, free of expense, by a master, sur-master, and chaplain, and the oversight of the school was committed by the founder to the Mercers' Company. The number (153) was chosen in allusion to the number of fishes taken by St. Peter. The school was dedicated by Colet to the Child Jesus, but the saint, as Strype remarks, has robbed his master of hia title. The lands left by Colet to supj^ort his school were estimated, in 1598, at the yearly vai»e of about 120^. Their present value is upwards of 5000^. The education is entirely XXII. — WESTMINSTER SCHOOL. 199 classical, and the presentations to the school are in the gift of the ]\Iaster of the Mercers' Company for the time being. Scholars are admitted at the age of 15, but at present none are eligible to an exhibition if entered after 12 ; and none are expected to remain in the school after their nineteenth birthday, though no time for superannuation is fixed by the statutes. The head-master's salary is 61SI. per annum ; the sur-master's, 307^.; the under-master's, 2721.; and the assistant-master's, 2571. Lilly, the grammarian, and friend of Erasmus, was the first master, and the grammar which he comi^iled, Lilly's Grammar, is still used in the school. Eminent Scholars.— John Leland, our earliest English anti- quary ; John IVIilton, the great epic poet of our nation ; the great Duke of Marlbm-ough ; Nelson, author of Fasts and Festivals ; Edmund Halley, the astronomer ; Samuel Pepys, the diarist ; John Strj^pe, the ecclesiastical historian. The present school was built in 1823, from a design by Mr. George Smith, and is the third building erected on the same site. Colet's school was destroj'ed in the Great Fire, '•' but built up again," says Strype, " much after the same manner and proportion it was before." WESTMINSTER SCHOOL, or St. Peter's College, Dean's Yard, Westminster, founded as "a publique schoole for Grammar, Rethoricke, Poetrie, and for the Latin and Greek languages," by Queen Elizabeth, 1560, and attached to the collegiate church of St. Peter at Westminster. The College consists of a dean, 12 prebendaries, 12 almsmen, and 40 scholars ; with a master and an usher. This is the founda- tion, but the school consists of a larger number of masters, and of a much larger number of boys. The 40 are called Queen's scholars, and after an examination, which takes place on the first Tuesday after Rogation Siinday, 4 are elected to Ti'iuity College, Cambridge, and 4 to Christ Church, Oxford. A parent wishing to place a boy at this school will get every necessaiy information from the head master ; boys are not placed on the foundation under 12 or above 13 years of age. Eminent Masters. — Camden, the antiquary ; Dr. Busby ; Vincent Boui'ne ; Jordan (Cowley has a copy of verses on his death). Eminent Men educated at. — Poets: Ben Jonson ; George Herbert ; Giles Fletcher ; Jasper Mayne ; William Cartwright ; Cowley, who published a volume of poems while a scholar ; Dryden ; Nat Leo ; Rowe ; Prior ; Churchill ; Dyer, author of Grongar Hill ; Cowper ; Southey. Other great Men.- — SitHariy Vane, the younger ; Hakluyt, the collector of the^^oyages which bear his name; Sir 200 XXII. — CIIARTEU HOUSE. Christopher Wreu ; Locke ; South ; Atterhury ; Wan'cil Hastings ; Gibbon, the historian ; Cumberland ; the elder Colman ; Lord John Russell. The boys on the foundation were formei-ly sej^arated from the town boys when in school by a bar or curtain. The Schoolroom was a dormitory belonging to the Abbey, and retains certain traces of its former ornaments. The College Hall, originally the Abbot's Refectory, was built by Abbot Litlington, in the reign of Edward IIL, and the old louvre is still used for the escajDe of the smoke. The Dormitory was built by the Earl of Burlington, in 1722. In conformity with the old custom, the Queen's scholars perform a play of Terence every year at Christmas, v/ith a Latin prologue and epilogue relating to current political events, and therefore new on each occasion. CHARTER HOUSE, (a con-uptiou of Chartreuse,) upper end of Aldersgate Street. " An hospital, chapel, and school-house," founded, 1611, by Thomas Sutton, of Camps Castle, in the county of Cambridge, for the free education of forty i^oor boys and for the sustenance of eighty ancient gentlemen, captains, and others, brought to distress by ship- wrecks, wounds, or other reverse of fortvme. It was so called from a priory of Carthusian monks, founded in 1371 on a Pest-house field by Sir Walter Manny, knight. Lord of the town of Manny, in the diocese of Cambraj', and knight of the garter in the reign of Edward III. The last prior was executed at Tyburn, May 4th, 15-35 — his head set on Loudon Bridge, and one of his limbs over the gateway of his own convent — the same gateway, it is said, a Per- [)endicular arch, surmounted by a kind of dripstone and supported by lions, which is still the entrance from Charter- House-square. The priory thus stci'uly dissolved, was sold by Thomas Howard, Earl of Suffolk, to Thomas Sutton for 13,000?., and endowed as a charity by the name of "the Hospital of King James." Sutton died before his work was complete, and was buried in the chapel of the hos- pital beneath a sumptuous monument, the work of Nicholas Stone and Mr. Janscn of Southwark. This " trijile good," as Lord Bacon calls it — this " masterpiece of Protestant English charity," as it is called by Fuller — is imder the direction of the Queen, 15 governors, selected from the great officers of state, and the master of the hospital, whose income is 800?. a year, besides a capital residence within the walls. The most eminent master of the liouse was Dr. Thomas Burnet, author of the Theoiw of the Earth, master between 1685 and 1715; and the most eminent school- 'i; XXII. — CHARTER HOUSE. 201 master, the Rev. Andrew Tooke (Tooke's Pantheon). Emi- nent Scholars. — Richard Cra.sha\v, the poet, author of Steps to the Temple. — Isaac Bairow, the divine ; he was cele- brated at school for his love of fighting. — Sir William Black- stone, author of the Commentaries. — Josej^h Addison and Sir Richard Steele were scholars at the same time. — John Wesey, who imputed his after-health and long life to the strict obedience with which he performed an injunction of his father s, that he should run round the Charter House playing-green three times every morning. — The first Lord Ellenborough (Lord Chief Justice). — Lord Liverpool (the Prime Minister). — Bishop Monk. — W. M. Thackeray. — Sir C. L. Eastlake, P.R.A. — The tvt'o eminent historians of Greece, Bishop Thirlwall and George Grote, Esq., were both toge- ther in the same form under Dr. Raine. Poor Brethren. — Elkanah Settle, the rival and antagonist of Dryden ; he died here in 1723-4. — John Bagford, the antiquary (d. 1716); was originally a shoemaker in Turnstile. — Isaac de Groot,by several descents the ne^jhew of Hugo Grotius ; he was admitted at the earnest intercession of Dr. Johnson. — Alexander Macbeau (d. 1784), Johnson's assistant in his Dictionary. Observe. — The antechapel, the S. wall of the chapel (rej^aired in 1842 under the direction of Blore), and the W. wall of the gi-eat hall ; parts of old Howard House (for such it was once called); the great staircase ; the governor's room, with its panelled chim- ney-piece, ceiling, and ornamental tapestry ; that part of the great hall with the initials T. N. (Thomas, Duke of Norfolk) ; Sutton's tomb in the chapel. On opening the vault in 1842, tlie body of the founder was discovered in a coffin of lead, adapted to the shape of the body, like an Egyjitian mummy- case. Chief Justice Ellenborough is buried l)y the side of Sutton. In the Master's lodge are several excellent portraits : the founder, engraved by Vertue for Bearcroft's book ; Lsaac ^^'alton's good old Bishop Morley ; Charles II. ; Villiers, second Duke of Buckingham ; Duke of Monmouth ; Lord Chancellor Shaftesbury ; William, Earl of Craven (the Queen, of Bohemia's Earl); Sheldon, Archbishop of Canterbury; Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham; Talbot, Duke of Shrewsbury; Lord Chancellor Somers ; and one of Kneller's fi]ie.st works, tlie portrait of Dr. Thomas Burnet. The fiiundation scholars, 44 in number, arc pi-esented by the governors in rotation, and are admitted at any age between 10 and 14. They are Ruppirted free of expense, that of £5 a-year for washing excepted. The value of a presentation to a boy entering at ten is estimated at one thousand pounds. The income of the Charter House wift in 1853-4, .£28,908 7s. 7.^d, arising 202 XXII. — Christ's hospital. from Estates in Cambridgeshire, Essex, Wilts, and Lincoln, and from funded property. CHRIST'S HOSPITAL, Newgate Street, marked by its gi-eat hall, visible through a double railing from Newgate-street. This noble charity was founded on the site of the Grey Friars Monastery, by Edward VI., June 26th, 1553, ten days before his death, as an hospital for poor fatherless children and found- lings. It is commonly called " The Blue Coat School," from the dress woi-n by the boys, which is of the same age as the foundation of the hospital. The dress is a blue coat or gown, a yellow petticoat ("yellow" as it is called), a red leather girdle round the waist, yellow stockings, a clergyman's band round the neck, and a flat black cap of woollen yarn, about the size of a saucer. Blue was a colour originally confined to servant-men and boys, nor, till its recognition as part of the uniform of the British Navy, was blue ever looked upon as a colour to be worn by gentlemen. The Whigs next took it up, and now it is a colour for a nobleman to wear. The first stone of the New Hall was laid by the Duke of Yoi'k, April 2Sth, 1825, and the Hall publicly opened May 29th, 1829. The architect was James Shaw, who built the church of St. Dunstan's in Fleet-street. It is better in its jjroportions than in its details. Observe. — At the upper end of the Hall, a large pictm'e of Edward VI. granting the charter of incor- poration to the Hospital. It is commonly assigned to Holbein, but upon no good authority. — Large pictui-e, by Verrio, of James II. on his throne (sm-rounded by his courtiers, all curious portraits), receivmg the mathematical pupils at their annual jjresentation : a custom still kej^t up at Court. The painter presented it to the Hosj^ital. — Full- length of Charles II., by Verrio. — Full-length of Sir Francis Child (d. 1713), from whom Child's Banking-house derives its name. — Full-lengths of the Queen and Prince Albert, by Francis Grant, R.A. — Brook Watson, when a boy, attacked by ashai'k, hj J.S.Coijley, R.A., the father of Lord Ljmdhurst. — The stone inserted in the wall behind the steward's chair ; when a monitor wishes to rej^ort the misconduct of a boj^, he tells him to " go to the stone." In tlais Hall, everj' year on St. Matthew's Day (Sept. 21st), the Grecians, or head-boys, deliver a series of orations before the Mayoi', Corpoi-ation, and Governors, and here every Tliursday, from Quinquagesima Sunday to Good Friday, the "Suppiugs in Public," as they are called, are held ; a picturesque sight, and always well attended. Each governor has tickets to give away. The bowing to the president, and procession of the trades, is extremely curious. xxTi. — Christ's hospital. 203 The Grammar-school -was biiilt by the son of Mr. Shaw, and answers all the purposes for which it was erected. The two chief classes in the school are called " Grecians " and "Deputy-Grecians." Eminent Grecians. — Joshua Barnes (d. 1712,) editor of Anacreon and Euripides. Jeremiah Mark- land (d. 1776), an eminent critic, particularly in Greek literatm-e. S. T. Coleridge, the poet (d. 1831). Thomas Mitchell, the translator of Aristophanes (d. 1815). Thomas Bai-nes, for many years, and till his death (1841,) editor of the Times newspajjer. Eminent Deputy-Grecians. — Charles Lamb (Elia), whose delightful papers, "Recollections of Christ's Hospital," and " Christ's Hospital Five-and-thii-ty Years Ago," have done so much to uphold the dignity of the school (d. 1834). Leigh Himt.* Eminent Scholars 2chose standinr/ in the School is unlcnoivn. — William Camden, author of the " Britannia." Bishop Stillingfleet. Samuel Richardson, author of '■ Clarissa Hai'lowe." The Mathematical-school was founded by Charles II., in 1672, for forty boys, called " King's boys," distinguished by a badge on the right shoulder. The school was afterwards enlarged, at the exi^ense of a Mr. Stone. The boys on the new foundation wear a badge on the left shoulder, and are called " The Twelves," on account of their number. To " The Twelves " was afterwards added " The Twos," on another foundation. " As I ventured to call the Grecians the muftis of the school, the King's boys, as their character then was, may well pass for the janissaries. They were the constant terror to the younger part ; and some who may read this, I douht not, will remember the consternation into which the juvenile fry of us were thrown, when the cry was raised in the cloister that ' the First Order ' was coming, for so they tenued the first form or class of those boys." — Charles Lamb. The Writing-school was founded in 1694, and furnished at the sole charge of Sir John Moore, Lord Mayor in 1681. The school has alwaj's been famous for its penmen. The Wards or Dormitories in which the boys sleep are seventeen in num- ber. Each boy makes his own bed; and each ward is governed by a nurse and two or more monitors. The Counting-house contains a good portrait of Edward VI., after Holbein — very probably by him. The dress of the boys is not the only remnant of byegone times, peculiar to the school. Old names still haunt the precinct of the Grey- friars : the place where is stored the bread and butter is still * May the author be excused for adding, in a note (gratefully), that he, too, was a Deputy Grecian at Christ's Hospital under Dr. Greenwood? 204 xxiT. — Christ's hospital. the " buttery ; " and the open ground in front of the Gram- mar-school is still distinguished as " the Ditch," because the ditch of the City ran through the precinct. The boys have only within the last few years ceased to take their milk fi-om wooden bowls, their meat from wooden trenchers, and their beer froin leathern black jacks and wooden piggins. They have still a currency and almost a language of their own. The Spital sermons are still preached before them. Every Easter Monday they visit the Ro3'al Exchange, and every Easter Tuesday the Lord Maj'or, at the Mansion-house. But the customs which distinguished the school are fast dying away : the saints' days are no longer holidays ; the money-boxes for the poor have disaf)peared from the clois- ters ; the dungeons for the unruly have been done away with ; and the governors are too lax in allowing the boys to wear caps and hats, and even at a distance to change the dress. By right, children whose parents have an income of 300/. ayear ai'e excluded. Mode of Admit-slon. — Boys whose parents may not be free of the City of London are admis- sible on Free Presentations, as they are called, as also are the sons of clergymen of the Church of England. The Lord Mayor has two presentations annually, and the Court of Aldermen one each. The rest of the governors have presen- tations once in three years. A list of the governors who have presentations for the year is printed every Piaster, and may be had at the counting-house of the Hospital. No boy is admitted before he is seven years old, or after he is nine : and no boy can remain in the school after he is fifteen — King's Boys and Grecians alone excepted. Qualificat'ton for G:jvernor. — Payment of 500Z. An Alderman has the power of nominating a governor for election at half-price. The revenues of the hospital in 1859 were 63,9 iO/. The number of children varies from 1200 to 1000: of these 800 ai-e in Loudon, and the rest at the Preparatoiy School at Hertford, founded in 1G83. The management is vested in foundation and donation governors who have contributed not less than 200,000?. to its funds. The Duke of Cambridge was cliosen President in 1854, and thus for the first time since its foundation has Christ's Hospital been without an Aldei'man for its President. MERCHANT TAYLORS' SCHOOL, in Suffolk Lane, in the ward of Dowgate, founded in 1561, by the Mercliant Taylors' Company. Sir Thomas White, who had recently founded St. Jolm's College, Oxford, was then a member of the Court ; and Richard Hills, master of the Company, gave XXII. — MERCHANT TAILORS' SCHOOL. 205 5001. towards the purchase of a portion of a house, called the " Manor of the Rose," sometime belonging to Stafibrd, Duke of Buckingham. " The Duke being at the Rose, ivithin the Parish St. Lawrence Poultney, did of me demand What was the speech among the Londoners Concerning the French journey." Shakspeare.— i/eJHT/ VIII., Acti., sc. 1. " The Rose " had been formerly in the possession of the De la Pole or Suffolk family, and was originally built by Sir John Poultney, knt., five times Lord Mayor of London, in the reign of Edward IIL Traces of its sviccessive owners ai-e still found in the name of the parish of " St. Laurence Pount- ney," in which the school is situate; in " Duck's-foot-lane" (the Duke's foot-laue, or private road from his garden to the river) which is close at hand ; and in " Suftblk-lane," by which it is approached. The Great Fire destroyed tliis ancient pile. The present school (a brick building with pilasters), and the head-master's residence adjoining, were erected in 1675. The former consists of the large upper schoolroom, two WTiting-rooms, formed, in 1829, out of part of the cloister ; a class-room, and a library (standing in the situation of the ducal chapel), stored with a fair collection of theological and classical works. The school consists of 260 boys. The charge for education has varied at different periods, but it is now 101. per annum for each boy. Boj's are admitted at any age, and may remain until the Monday after St. John the Baptist's Day preceding their 19th birthday. Presentations are in the gift of the members of the Court of the Company in rotation. Boys who have been entered on or below the third form are eligible to all the school prefer- ments at the Universities ; those who have been entered higher, only to the exhibitions. The course of education since the foundation of the school has embi-aced Hebrew and classical literature ; writing, aritlnuetic, and mathematics were introduced in 1829, and French and modern history in 1846. There is no property belonging to the school, with the exception of the buildings above described ; and it is supported by the Merchant Taylors' Company out of their several "funds, without any specific fund being set aj^art for that object;" it was, therefore, exempt from the inquiry of the Charity Commissioners ; but like Winchester, Eton, and Westminster, it has a college almost appropriated to its scholars. Tliirty-seven out of the fifty fellowships at St. John's, Oxford, founded by Sir Thomas White, belong to Merchant 206 XXII. — CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL. Taylors' ; 8 exhibitions at Oxford, 6 at Cambridge, aud 4 to eitiier University, averaging from 801. to 70^. per annum, besides a multitude of smaller exhibitions, are also attached to it. The election to these preferments takes place annually, on St. Barnabas' Day, June 11th, with the sanction of the President or two senior Fellows of St. John's. This is the chief speech-day, and on it the school prizes are distributed'; but there is another, called " the doctors' day," in December. Plays were formerly acted by the boys of this school, as at Westminster. The earliest instance known was in 1665. Garrick, who was a personal friend of the then Head-Master of his time, was frequently present, and took great interest in the performances. Eminent Men educated at Merchant Taylors School. — Bishop Andrews, Bishop Dove, and Bishop Tomson (three of the translators of the Bible) : Edwin Sandys, the traveller, the friend of Hooker ; Bulstrode Whitelocke, author of the Memorials which bear his name ; James Shirley, the di'amatic poet ; the infamous Titus Gates ; Charles \\1ieatley, the ritualist ; Neale, the author of the History of the Puritans ; Edmund Calamy, the nonconformist, aud his grandson of the same name ; Edmund Gaytou, author of the Festivous Notes on Don Quixote ; John Byrom, author of the Pastoral, in the Spectator, " My time, O ye Muses, was happily spent ; " Luke Milbourne, Drydon's antagonist ; Robert, the celebrated Lord Clive; Charles Mathews, the comedian; aud Lieut. -Col. Dixon Denham, the African traveller. CITY OF LONDON SCHOOL, Milk Street, Cheapside, established 1835, for the sons of respectable 25ersons engaged in professional, commercial, or trading pursuits : and partly founded on an income of 900/. a-year, derived from certain tenements bequeathed by John Carpenter, town-clerk of London, in the reign of Henry V., " for the finding and bringing up of four poor men's children with meat, drink, apparel, learning at the schools, in the universities, &c., until they be preferred, aud then others in their places for ever." This was the same John Carpenter who " caused, with great expense, to be curiously painted upon board, about the N. cloister of Paul'.?, a monument of Death leading all Estates, with the speeches of Death aud answers of every State." The school year is divided into three terms : Easter to July ; August to Christmas ; January to Easter ; and the charge for each pupil is 21. 5s. a term. The printed form of application for admission may be had of the secretary, and must be filled XXII. — DEPARTMENT OF TRACTICAL ART. 207 up by the parent or guardian, and signed by a member of the Corporation of London. The general course of instruction includes the English, French, German, Latin, and Greek languages, ^\•l■iting, arithmetic, mathematics, book-keeping, geography, and history. Besides 8 free scholarships on the foundation, equivalent to B5l. per annum each, and available as exhibitions to the Universities, there are the following exhibitions belonging to the school : — The " Times " Scholar- ship, value 3U/. per annum ; 3 Beaufoy Scholarships, the Siilomons Scholarship, and the Travers Scholarship, 50^. per annum each ; the Tegg Scholarship, nearly 20^. per annum ; and several other valuable prizes. The first stone of the School was laid by Lord Brougham, October 21st, 1835, THE GOVERNMENT SCHOOL OF DESIGN — South Kensington Museum was established (1837) by the Board of Trade for the Improvement of Ornamental Art, with regard especially to the staple manufactures of this country. Mode of Admission. — The recommendation of a householder. The Library of Ornamental Art is very acces- sible not only to artists but to poor workmen, who can take down and consult any illustrated work (and Ln these the library is very rich), however expensive, on payment of one penny. The course of instruction comprehends Elemeutaiy drawing, colouring ; drawing tlie figiu-e after engraved copies from casts ; painting the figure from casts ; geometrical di'a\ving applied to ornament ; perspective ; modelling from engraved copies, design, &c. There is also a class for wood-engraving under the direction of Mr. John Thompson, our best engraver on wood. The greatest number of students of the same calling are the ornamental painters and house-decorators ; the next most numerous are draughtsmen and designers for various ma- nufactures and trades. In connection with the head-school at Brompton, schools have been formed in many of the prin- cipal manufactm-ing districts throughout the country. Besides these, the visitor cm'ious about modes of education should visit the " Wesleyan Normal College," Horseferry- road, Westminster, established 1850 (James Wilson, architect), for the training of school-masters and mistresses, and the edu- cation of the children residing in the locality ; and the "Ragged School," in South Lambeth, founded by the late Mr. Beaufoy (d. 1851) ; the Normal School, in the Fulham-road. 208 XXIII. — CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. XXIil.-HOSPlTALSAND CHARITABLE INSTITUTIONS. In London there exist nearly 550 Charitable Institutions (or parent societies) divided into General Medical Hospitals. Medical Charities for special purposes ; suoli as Small Pox, Con- sumption, Cancer, &c. Genaral Dispensaries. Societies and Institutions for the preservation of life and public morals. Societies for reclaiming the fallen and staying the progress of crime. Societies for the relief of general destitution and distress. Societies for relief of specific description. Societies for aiding the resources of the industrious (exclusive of loan funds and savings' banlis). Societies for the deaf and dumb and the blind. Colleges, Hospitals, and Institutions of Almshouses for the aged. Cliaritahle Pension Societies. Charitable and Provident Societies chiefly for specified classes. Asylums for orphan and other necessitous children. Educational Foundations. Charitable Modern Ditto. School Societies, Religious Books, Church-aiding, and Christian Visiting Societies. Bible and Missionary Societies, and disbursing annually in aid of their respective objects 1,805,635?., of which upwards of 1,000,000?. is raised by voluntary contributions. Of these institutions five are Royal Hospitals. One for the education of youth (Cfii'ist's Hospital); three for the cure of disease {St. Bartholomeiv's, St. Thomas's, and Beth- lehem). The leading institutions which the stranger or resident in London will find best worth visiting are : — ST. BARTHOLOMEWS HOSPITAL, in Smithfield, the earliest institution of the kind in London, occupying part of the Priory of St. Bartholomew, founded a.d. 1102, by Rahere, the first Prior ; repaired and enlarged by the executors of Richard Whittington, the celebrated Mayor; and founded anew, at the dissolution of religious houses, by Henry VIII., " for the continual relief and help of an hundred sore and diseased ; " the immediate superintendence of the Hospital being committed by the king to Thomas Vicarj^ Serjeant- Sm-geon to Henry VIII., Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth, and author of "The Englishman's Treasure," the first work on anatomy published in the English language. The great xxin. — ST. Bartholomew's hospital. 209 quadrangle of the present edifice was built (1730-33) by James Gibbs, architect of the church of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. The gate towards Smithfield was built in 1702, and the New Surgery in 1842. This Hospital gives relief to all poor per- sons suffering from accident or diseases, either as in-patients or out-patients. Cases of all kinds are received into the Hospital, including diseases of the eyes, chstortions of the limbs, and all other infirmities which can be relieved by medicine or surgery. Accidents, or cases of urgent disease, may be brought without any letter of recommendation or other formality at all hours of the day or night to the Sur- gery, where there is a person in constant attendance, and the aid of the Resident Medical Officers can be instantly obtained. General admission-day, Thursday, at 11 o'clock. Petitions for admission to be obtained at the Steward's Office, any day, between 10 and 2. Any other information may be obtained from the poi'ter at the gate. The Hospital contains 580 beds, and relief is afforded to 70,000 patients annually. The in-patients are visited daily by the Physicians and Surgeons : and, during the summer session, four Clinical Lectures are delivered weekly. The out-patients arc attended daily by the Assistant-Physicians and Assistant-Surgeons. Students can reside within the Hospital walls, subject to the rules of the Collegiate system, established under the direction of the Treasurer and a Committee of Governors of the Hospital. Some of tlie teachers and other gentlemen connected with the Hospital also receive Students to reside with them. Further information may be obtained from the Medical or Surgical Officers or Lectvirers, or at the Anatomical Museum or Library. Between 200/. and 300/. are spent every year for strong sound port wine, for the sick poor in Bartholomew's Hospital. It is bought in pipes, and drawn off as needed. Nearly 2000 lbs. weight of castor oil ; 200 gallons of spirits of wine, at 176'. a gallon; 12 tons of linseed meal ; 1000 lbs. weight of senna ; 27 cwt. of salts, are items in the annual account for drugs ; the grand total spent upon phj'sic, in a twelvemonth, being 2,600/. 5000 yards of calico are wanted for rollers for bandaging ; to say nothing of the stouter and stiffer fabric used for plaisters. More than half a hundred weight of sarsaparilla is used every week, a sign how much the constitutions of the patients require improve- ment. In a year, 29,700 leeches were bought for the use of the establishment. A ton and a half of treacle is annually used in syrup. Harvey, the discoverer of the circulation of the blood, was Physician to the Hospital for 34 years (1C09-43), and the rules which he laid^ down for the duties P 210 sxiii. — ST. Bartholomew's hospital. of the medical officers of tlie Hospital were adhered to for nearly a century after his retirement. The date of the actual commencement of a Medical School is imknown ; but in 1662, students were in the habit of attending the medical and surgical j^ractice; and in 1667, their studies were assisted by the formation of a Library " for the use of the Governors and young University scholars." A building for a Museum of Anatomical and Chirurgical Preparations was provided in 1724, and, in 1734, leave was granted for any of the Surgeons or Assistant-Surgeons "to read Lectm^es in Anatomy in the dissecting-room of the Hospital." The first Surgeon wlio availed himself of this permission was Mr. Edward Nourse, whose anatomical lectures, delivered for many years in or near the Hospital, were followed, in 1765, and for many years after, by courses of Lectures on Surgeiy from his former pupil and prosector, Percival Pott : and about the same time. Dr. AVilliam Pitcaim, and subse- quently Dr. David Pitcaii-n, successively Pliysicians to the Hospital, delivered lectures, probably occasional ones, on Medicine. Furtlier additions to the coui'se of instruction were made by Mr. Abernethy, who was elected Assistant- Surgeon in 17S7, and by whom, with the assistance of Drs. William and David Pitcairn, the principal lectures of the i^resent day were established. Abei'nothy lectured on Anatomy, Physiology, and Surgerj', in a theatre erected for him by the Governors in 1791, and his high reputation attracting so great a body of students it was found necessary, in 1822, to erect a new and larger Anatomical Theatre. The progress of science and the extension of medical education in the last twenty years have led to the institution of additional lectui'eships on subjects auxiliary to Medicine, and on new and impoi'tant applications of it ; and further facilities have been afforded for instruction. In 1835, the Anatomical Museum was considerably enlarged, a new Medical Theatre was bviilt, and Museums of Materia Medica and Botany were founded ; and, at the same time, the Library was removed to the present building, and enriched by liberal contributions. In 1834, the Medical Officers and Lecturers commenced the practice of offering Prizes and Honorary Distinctions for superior knowledge displayed at the annual examinations of their classes ; and in 1845, four scholarships were founded, each tenable for three years, and of the annual value of 45/. and 50?., with the design not only of encouraging learning, but of assisting Students to prolong their attendance, beyond the usual period, on the medical and surgical practice of the Hospital. In 1843, the Governors founded a Collegiate XXIII. — BETnLEIIEM HOSPITAL. 211 Establishment, to afford the Pupils the moral advantages, together with the comfort and convenience, of a residence wthiu the walls of the Hospital, and to supply them with ready guidance and assistance in their studies. The chief officer of the College is called the Warden. The President of the Hospital must have served the office of Lord Mayor. The qualification of a Governor is a donation of 100 guineas. The greatest individual benefactor to St. Bartholomew's was Dr. Radcliffe, physician to Queen Anne, who left the yearly sum of 500?. for ever, towards mending the diet of the Hos- pital, and the fui-ther sum of 100?. for ever, for the pur- chase of linen. Observe. — Portraits : Henry VIII. in the Court- room, esteemed an original, though not by Holbein; of Dr. Radcliffe, by Kneller; Perceval Pott, by Sir J. Reynolds ; Aber- nethy, by Sir T. Lawrence. The Good Samaritan, and The Pool of Bethesda, on the grand staircase, were painted gra- tuitously by Hogarth; for which he was made a governor for life. The income of the Hospital is between 30,000?. and 40,000?. a year.— (The Times, 24 May, 1854.) BETHLEHEM HOSPITAL (\'ulg. Bedlam), in St.Geobge's Fields. An hospital for insane people, founded (1246) as a prioiy of canons, in Bishopsgate Without, by Simon Fitz- Mary, one of the Sheriffs of London. Henry VIII., at the Dissolution, gave it to the City of London, when it was first converted into an hospital for hmatics. Fitz-Maiy's Hospital was taken down in 1675, and the Hospital removed to Moorfields, "at the cost of nigh 17,000?." Of this second Bedlam (Robert Hooke, architect) there is a view in Strype. Bedlam, in Moorfields, was taken down in 1814, and the first stone of the present Hospital (James Lewis, architect) laid Api'il 18th, 1812. The cupola, a more recent addition, was designed by Sydney Smirke. The first Hospital could accommodate only 50 or 60, and the second 150. The building in St. George's-fields was originally constructed for 198 patients, but this being found too limited for the purposes and resources of the Hospital, a new wing was commenced for 166 additional patients, 1838. Two remote wings are devoted to noisy patients, male and female. The whole building (the House of Occupations included) covers 14 acres. In one year the Governors admitted nearly 600 patients, of whom 206 were cured, and 13 died, and 344 (136 criminal lunatics) remained. The incomeis about 30,000?. per annum. The expenses exceed 20,000?. The way in which the comfort of the patients is studied by every one connected with the Hospital cannot bo too highly com- mended. The women have pianos, and the men billiard and p 2 212 xxur. — ST. Thomas's hospital. bagatelle-tables. There are, indeed, few things to remind j'ou that you are in a mad-house beyond the bone knives in iise, and a few cells lined and floored with cork and india-rubber, and against which the most insane patient may knock his head without the possibility of hui'ting it. Among the unfortu- nate inmates have been — Peg Nicholson, for attempting to stab George III. ; she died here in 1828, after a confinement of 42 years. — Hatfield, for attemptmg to shoot the same king in Drury-lane Theatre. — Oxford, for firing at Queen Victoria in St. James's Pai'k. — M'Naghten, for shooting Mr. Edward Drummond at Chariug-cross ; he mistook Mr. Drum- mond, the private secretary of Sir Robert Peel, for Sir R. Peel himself. Visitors interested in cases of lunacy should see Hamvell Asylum, on the Great Western Railway (7tj miles fi-om London), and the Colney Hatch Asylum on the Great Northern Railway {Qh miles from London), the latter covering 119 acres, and erected at a cost of 200,000^. ST. THOMAS'S HOSPITAL, temporarily removed to SuRBEY Gardens, Lambeth. An Hospital for sick and diseased poor persons, imder the management of the Cor- poi'ation of the City of London, founded (1213) by Richard, Prior of Bcrmondsey, as an Almoniy, or house of alms ; and augmented (1215) for canons regular, by Peter de Rupibus, Bishop of Winchester ; bought at the dissolution of religious houses by the citizens of London, and opened by them as an Hospital for poor, impotent, and diseased people, Nov. 1552. The building having fallen into decay, the governors, aided by the benevolence of the public, rebuilt the whole hospital (1701-6) as it stood in High Sti'eet, Southwark, con- sisting of three courts, with colonnades between each. Three wards were built at the sole cost of Thomas Frederick, Esq. ; and three by Thomas Guy, the munificent founder of the Hospital which bears his name. Day of admission, Tuesday morning, at 10. Patients stating their complaints may re- ceive a petition at the steward's ofiice, to be signed by a housekeeper, who must engage to remove the patient on dis- charge or death, or pay 1^. Is. for funeral. The qualification of a governor is a donation of 50^. Nearly 50,000 in and out patients are received and treated in one year. The income has risen to 32,000/. per annum. In 1862 the South- Eastei-n Railway gave by award 296,000/. for the building and ground on whicli it stands, to enable them to carry past one corner of it their branch line to Charing Cross. The hospital has been removed in consequence to a building in the Surrey Gardens, formerly used by Mr. Spurgeon as a Tabernacle, Avhich has been floored and converted into wards. XXITI. — guy's and ST. GEORGe's HOSPITALS. 213 GUY'S HOSPITAL, iu Southwauk, for the sick and lame, situated near London Bridge, built by Dance (d. 1768), and endowed by Thomas Guy, a bookseller in Lombard- street, who is said to have made his fortune ostensibly by the sale of Bibles, but more, it is thought, by jjurchasing seamen's tickets, and by his great success iu the sale and transfer of stock in the memorable South Sea year of 1720. Guy was a native of Tamworth, in Staffordshire, and died (1724) at the age of 80. The building of the Hospital cost 18,793?. 16s. Id., and the endowment amounted to 219,499?. Os. id. The founder, though 76 when the work began, lived to see his LEospital covered with the roof In the first court is his statue iu brass, dressed in his livery gown, and in the chapel (" shouldering God's altar") another statue of him in marble, by the elder Bacon. Sir Astley Cooper, the eminent surgeon (d. 1841), is buried in the chapel of this Hospital. The tall towers for ventilation of the new wai'ds, were erected 1851-2, from the designs of Eohde Hawkins, Esq. Gentlemen who desire to become Students must give satisfactory testimony as to their education and conduct. They are rec^uired to pay 40Z. for the first year, 40Z. for the second year, and IQl. for every succeeding year of attendance. The payment for the year admits to the Lectures, Practice, and all the privileges of a Student. Dressers, Clinical Clerks, Assistants, and Resident Obste- tric Clerks are selected according to merit from those Students who have attended a second year. The Apothecai-y to the Hospital is authorised to enter the Names of Students, and to give further particulars if required. ST. GEORGE'S HOSPITAL, Hyde Park Corner, at the top of Grosvenor-place. An Hospital for sick and lame people, supported by voluntary contributions ; built by William Wilkins, R.A., architect of the National Gallery, on the site of Lanesborough House, the London residence of " Sober Lanesbro' dancing with tlie gout ; " converted into an Infirmary in 1733. John Himter, the physician, died (1793) in this Hospital. He had long STif- fered from an affection of the heart ; and in an altercation with one of his colleagues, about a matter of right, wliicli had been improperly refused him, as he thought, by the governors of the Hospital, ho suddenly stopped, retired to an ante-room, and immediately expired. CHELSEA HOSPITAL. A Royal Hospital for old and disabled soldiers, of which the first stone was laid by 214 XXIII. — CHELSEA HOSPITAL. Charles II. in per-son, March, 16S1-2. It has a centre, with two wings of red brick, with stone dressings, faces the Thames, and shows more effect 's^'ith less means than any other of Wren's buildings. The history of its erection is contained on the frieze of the great quadrangle : — " In subsidium et levamen emeritorum senio, belloque fractoniiu, condidit Carolus Secundus, auxit Jacobus Secundus, perfecere Gulielmus et Maria Rex et Kegina, MDCXC." The total cost is said to have been 150,000Z. Observe. — Portrait of Charles II. on horseback (in hall), by Verrio and Henry Cooke ; altar-piece (in chapel) by Sebastian Ricci ; bronze statue of Charles II. iu centre of the great quadrangle, executed by G)'inling Gibbons ior Tobias Rustat. In the Hall, in which General Whitelocke was tried, and the Courts of Inquiry into the Convention of Cintra, and into the mor- tality among the troops in the Crimean campaign, sat, and in which the Duke of Wellington's body lay in state, are hung, modestly out of sight, 46 colours ; ojid in the Chapel, 55 (all captured by the British army in various parts of the world), viz. : — 34 F'reuch ; 13 American ; 4 Dutch; 13 eagles taken from the French, — 2 at Waterloo, 1 by Sergt. Ewart, of the Scots Greys, the other by Colonel Kennedy (for Mous. Thiers' information, 1862) ; 2 Salamanca ; 2 Madrid ; 4 Martinique ; 1 BaiTosa ; and a few staves of the 171 colours taken at Blenheim. At St. Paul's, where the Blen- heim colours were suspended, not a rag nor a staff remains. Eminent Persons interred in the Chapel. — William Cheselden, the famous surgeon (d. 1752) ; Rev. William Young (d. 1757), the original Parson Adams iu Fielding's Joseph Andrews. Dr. Ai-buthnot filled the office of Physician, and the Rev. Philip Francis (the translator of Horace) the office of Chaplain to the Hospital. The mmiber of iu-pensioners is from 400 to 430 (as many as the Hospital ■vs'ill accommodate), main- tained at a cost of 36/. a year for each pensioner. The out-pensioners, about 76,000 in number, are paid at rates varying from 24c?. a day to 3s. Qd. a day; the majority at 6c/., 9c/., and Is. By Loi-d Hardinge's warrant of 1829, foot- soldiers to be entitled to a Chelsea pension must have served twenty-one years, horse-soldiers, twenty-four. Few invalids, it is said, apply to become in-jjensioners, who have an out- pension amounting to 10c/. or Is. per day. There is a pleasant tradition that Nell Gwynne materially assisted in the foundation of Chelsea Hospital. Her head has long been the sign of a neighbouring public-house. The Hos- pital is managed by a Governor, Commissioners, &c. The Governor is appomted by the Sovereign, acting on the advice of the Commander-in-Chief. XXIII. — GREENWICH HOSPITAL. 215 GREENWICH HOSPITAL, on the right bank of the Thames, 6 miles below Loudon Bridge. — An Hospital for old and disabled seamen (not officers) of the Royal Navy, founded by William III. (at the desire of his Queen, Mai-y), anxious to provide for the wounded seamen who returned from the battle of La Hogue, and erected on the site of the old Manor House of our kings, in which Henry VIII. and his daughters Mary and Elizabeth were born. Charles II. intended to erect a new palace on the site; the west wing was commenced in 1664, from the designs of Webb, the kinsman of Inigo Jones ; indeed, it forms part of the present building. The first stone of the Hospital works, in con- tinuation of the unfinished palace, was laid 3rd June, 1696 ; and in January, 1705, the building was first oi:)ened for the reception of pensioners. The river front is doubtless Webb's design. The colonnades, the cupolas, and the great hall, are by Wren. The chapel was built by Athenian Stuart, in place of the original chapel, built by Rijjley, and destroyed by fire •2nd January, 1779. The brick buildings to the west are by Vanbrugh. The house seen in the centre of the great square was built by Inigo Jones for Queen Henrietta Maria, and is now the Royal Naval School. It should be seen inside ; for, after Whitehall Banqueting-House, it is the best memorial in stone (and good it is) of the palaces of the Stuarts. The statue, by Rysbrack, in the centre of the quadi'angle, represents George II., and was cut from a block of marble taken from the French by Sir George Rooke. The Hall, a well-proportioned edifice, 106 feet long, 56 feet wide, and 50 feet high, is the work of Wren. The emblema- tical ceiling and side-walls were executed by Sir James Thornhill, between 1708-27, and cost 6685;., or 3^. per yard for the ceiling, and 1?. for the sides. Among the portraits, observe, full-length of the Earl of Nottingham, Admu'al of England against the Spanish Armada, Vanmmer ; half-lengths, painted for the Duke of York (James II.), of Monk, Duke of Albe- mai'le; Montague, Earl of Sandwich; Admu-als Ayscue, Law- son, Tyddeman, Mings, Penn, Harman (fine), and Vice-Admi- rals Berkeley, Smith, and Jordan, by Sir P. Lely, — all cele- brated commanders at sea against the Dutch in the reign of Charles II. ; Russell, Earl of Orford, victor at La Hogue, Bochman ; Sir George Rooke, who took Gibraltai', Dahl ; Sir Cloudesley Shovel, Dalil ; several Admirals, Kneller ; Caj^tain Cook, by Dance (painted for Sir Joseph Banks) ; Sir Thomas Hardy, Evans. The other portraits are principally copies by inferior artists. Among the subject-pictures, observe, Death of Captain Cook, Zoffany ; Lord Howe's Victory of the 1st of 216 XXIII. — GREENWICH HOSPITAL. June, Louiherhourg (fine) ; Battle of Trafalgar, /. M. W. Turmr. The statues, erected by vote of Parliament, represent Sir Sydney Smith, Lord Exmouth, and Lord De Saumarez, and cost 1500Z. each, — the Smith by Kirk of Dublin, the Exmouth by Mac Dowell of London, and the De Saumarez by Steel of Ediubui-gh. In Upper Hall, observe, Astrolabe presented to Sir Francis Drake by Queen Elizabeth ; coat worn by Nelson at the Battle of the Nile ; coat and waistcoat in which Nelson was killed at Trafalgar. "The coat is the undress uniform of a vice-admiral, lined with white silk, with lace on the cuffs, and epaulettes. Four stars — of the Orders of the Bath, St. Ferdinand and Merit, the Crescent, and St. Joachim— are sevm on the left breast, as Nelson habitually wore them ; which disproves the story that he purposely adorned himself with his decorations on going into battle! The course of the fatal ball is shown by a hole over the left shoulder, and part of the epaulette is torn away ; which agrees with Dr. Sir William Beattie's account of Lord Nelson's death, and with the fact that pieces of the bullion and pad of the epaulette adhered to the ball, which is now in Her Majesty's possession. The coat and waistcoat are stained in several places with the hero's blood." — Sir Harris Nicolas. The Chapel, built 1779-89, by Athenian Stuart, contains an altar-piece, " The Shipwreck of St. Paul," by B. West, P. R. A., and monuments, erected by King William IV., to Admiral Sir Richard Goodwin Keats, and Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy (Nelson's captain at Trafalgar) ; the former by Chantreij, and the latter by Behnes. Keats, as the inscription sets forth, was the shipmate and watchmate of William IV., on board the Prince George, 1779-81 ; the commoner ser\'ing as lieutenant, and the king as midshipman. The Show Dormitories are in Iving Charles's building. The income of the Hospital is about 150,000^. a year, derived from an annual Parliament arj^ grant of 20,000^. ; from fines levied against smuggling, 19,500Z. ; effects of Captain Kidd, the pirate, 6472/. ; forfeited and unclaimed shares of prize and bounty money, granted in 1708 ; 6000Z. a year, granted in 1710, out of the coal and cxilm tax; various ^^ri- vate bequests, particularly one of 20,000?. from Robert Os- baldeston, and the valuable estates forfeited, in 1715, by the Earl of Derweutwater. The number of pensioners is 1600, though there is room for 2600. The cost of each is 30/. per annum. The Hospital Gates open at Sunrise. The Painted Hall is open every Week-day from Ten to Seven during the Summer months, and from Ten to Three in the Winter ; and on Sun- days after Divine Service in the Morning. On Monday and Friday it is open free to the public ; and on the other days, on payment of threepence. Soldiers and sailors are admitted XXIII. — FOUNDLING HOSPITAL. 217 free at all times. The Chapel is open under the same regu- lations as the Painted Hall. Olher Hospitals. — Among the noble institutions of a like nature with which London abounds may be mentioned : — 1. The London Hospital. 2. Westminster Hospital, Broad Sanctuary, Westminster, relieves about 16,000 patients annu- ally, of whom more than one-half are admitted on no other claim than (the greatest) the urgency of their cases. 3. Mid- dlesex Hospital. 4. Royal Free Hospital, in Gray's-Inn-road. 5. King's College Hospital, Portugal-street, Lincoln's-Inn-fields. 6. University College Hospital. 7. Charing-cross Hospital. 8. St. Mary's Hospital, Cambridge-place, Paddington. Hospital for Sick Children. The Cancer Hospital (Free) Chelsea ;5 Office, 167, Piccadilly; an excellent institution, has 400 constant patients. Among the Charities for Reclaiming the Fallen, the reform- ation of criminals, and staying the progress of crime, the Foundlinij, the Marjdalen, and the Lock are the most important. The FOUNDLING HOSPITAL, Guilford Street, was foimded in 1739, by Captain Thomas Coram, as "an hospital for exposed and deserted children." The ground was bought of the Eai-1 of Salisbury for 7000?., and the Hospital built by Theodore Jacobson (d. 1772), architect of the Royal Hospital at Gosport. The Hospital was changed, in 1760, from a Foundling Hospital to what it now is, an Hospital for poor illegitimate children whose mothers are known. The committee i-equires to be satisfied of the previous good character and present necessity of the mother of eveiy child proposed for admission. The qualification of a governor is a donation of 50/. Among the principal bene- tVictora to the Foundling Hospital, the great Handel stands unquestionably the first. On the organ in the chapel he fre- (piently performed his Oratorio of the Messiah. Observe, — In the chapel, an altar-piece, by UVs/, and in the Committee Room, Portrait of Captain Coram, full-length, by Hogarth. " The portrait I painted with the most pleasure, and in which I par- ticularly wished to excel, was that of Captain Coram for the Foundling Hospital ; and if I am so wretched an artist as my enemies assert, it is somewhat strange tliat this, wliich was one of the first I painted the size of life, should stand the test of twenty years' competition, and be generally thought the best portrait in the place, notwithstanding the first painters in the kingdom e.xerted all their talents to vie with it." — Hogarth. The March to Finehley, by Hogarth; Moses brought to Pharaoh's Daughter, by Hogarth; Dr. Mead, by Allan 218 XXIII. — MAGDALEX AND LOCK HOSPITALS. Ramsay ; Loi-d Dartmouth, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; George II., by Sliachleton; View of the Foundling Hospital, by Richard Wilson ; St. George's Hospital, by Richard Wilson ; Sutton's Hospital (the Charter House), by Gainsborough ; Chelsea Hospital, by Haytley ; Bethlehem Hospital, by Haytley ; St. Thomas's Hospital, by Wale ; Greenwich Hos- pital, by Wale ; Christ's Hospital, by TT'a^e / three sacred subjects, by Hayman, Highmore, and Wills; also bas-relief, by Rysirach. These pictm-es were chiefly gifts, and illustrate the state of art in England about the middle of the last centuiy. The music in the chapel of the Hospital on Sundays — the children being the choristers — is fine, and worth hearing. Lord Chief Justice Teuterden (d. 1832) is bm-ied in the chapel. The Foundling is oj^en for the inspection of strangers every Sunday after morning service — when the children are at dinner — an interesting sight, and every Monday from 10 to 4. The juvenile band of the establishment perform from 3 to 4. The services of the -chapel on Sundays commence in the morning at 11 o'clock, and in the afternoon at 3, pre- cisely. The servants ai-e not permitted to receive fees, but a collection is made at the chapel doors to defray the expenses of that part of the establishment. MAGDALEN HOSPITAL, St. George's Fields, for the reformation and rehef of penitent prostitutes. Instituted 1758, chiefly by the exertions of Mi'. Dingley, Sir John Fielding, Mr. Saunders Welch, and Jonas Hauway. A sub- scription of 20 guineas or more at one time, or of 5 guineas per annum for five successive years, is a qualification of a governor for life. LOCK HOSPITAL, CHAPEL, and ASYLUM, Harrow Road, Westbourne Green. Supposed to be so called from the French loques, rags, from the rags (lint) applied to wounds and sores ; so locJc of wool, loch of hair. The Hos- pital (the only one of the kind in London) was established in 1746, for the cure of females suffering from disorders contracted by a vicious course of life; the Chapel in 1764, as a means of income to the Hospital ; and the Asylum in 1787, for the reception of penitent females recovered in the Hospital. A subscription of 3 guineas annually entitles to one recommendation ; 501. donation, or 5 guineas annually, constitutes a governor. The Loke, or Lock, in Kent-street, in Southwark (from which the i^rescnt Hospital derives its name), was a lazar-liousc, or 'spital for leprous people, from a very early period. There was a second betwixt Mile End xxiii. — seamen's hospital, &c. 219 and Stratford-le-Bow ; a third at Kingsland, betwixt Shorc- ditcli aud Stoke Newington ; and a fourth at Knightsbridge, near Hyde-Park-corner. In one of these Locks, Bully Dawson died in 1699, aged 43. St. Giles's-in-the-Fields and St. James's Hospital in Westminster (now the Palace), were both instituted for the reception of lepers. The SEAMEN'S HOSPITAL SHIP (Caledonia), for Sick aud Diseased Seamen of all Nations ; who, on pre- senting themselves alongside the shiji, are immediately re- ceived, without the necessity of a recommendatory letter. The Hospital is supported by voluntary contributions. The original Dreadnought (or hospital on this mooring) fought at Trafalgar under Captain Conn, and captured the Spanish thi'ee-decker the San Juan. Among the leading Societies for the Preservation of Human Life, Health, and Morals, may be mentioned : — The ROYAL HUMANE SOCIETY, for the recovery of persons from drowning, founded by Dr. Hawcs; instituted 1774 ; and still maintained by voluntary contributions. The Receiving House, a tasteful classic building, by J. B. Bunning, is close to the Serpentine River, in Hyde Park, and the Society's office at 3, Trafixlgar-square. During a severe frost the Society has 50 icemen in its employ, at an expense of 4s. Qd. a day for each man. The MODEL BATHS and WASH-HOUSES, in Goulston- SQUAEE, Whitechapel (P. P. Baly, Engineer and Architect) ; George-street, Eustox-square ; St. Martin's-in-the-Fields, behind the National Gallery ; Martlebone ; Westminster ; St. James's, Piccadilly. That in Goulston-square, erected in 1847, was the earliest in point of time, and is still, perhaps, not to be surpassed. They are all self-suppoi'ted, and have contri- buted materially to the comfort and health of the lower and middle classes of London. The Baths are scrupulously clean. The Chaiitics for the Blind, the Deaf, and the Dumb are important and well deserving attention. The leading insti- tutions of this nature are : — London Society for Teaching the Blind to Read, 1, Avenue-road, .St. John' s-wood ; instituted 1839. School for the indigent Blind, St. George's-fields, Surrey; instituted 1799. Asylum for the Support and Education of Deaf AND Dumb Children, Old Kent-road, Surrey ; instituted 1792 ; Royal National Lifeboat Institution, John-street, Adelphi. For further information, see Mr. Sampson Low's excellent volume on the " Charities of Loudon." 220 XXIV. — CLUBS. XXIV.-CLUB HOUSES. PRINCIPAL CLUBS IN LONDON. lliose marked ivith an asterisk (*) admit Strangers to dine in the Strangers' Boom. Number of Mem- Entrance Annual AVhere Name. bers li- mited to. Fee. Sub- scription. Situate. £ s. £ s. *Army and Navy . 1450 30 6 11 P.all-mall. Arthur's . . . 600 21 10 10 St. James's-st. Athenaeum 1200 26 5 6 6 Pall-mall. Boodle's . . . 28, St. James" s-st. Brooks's . 575 9 9 11 11 St. James's-st. Carlton . . . 800 1 15 15 10 10 Pall-mall. City of London 26 5 6 6 Old Broad-st.,City Cocoa Tree St. James's-st. *Conservatlve . . 1500 28 5 8 8 St. James'.s-st. *Garrick . . . 350 21 6 6 King-st., Covt.-gn. Guards . Officers c f Hous. Troops only. Pall-mall. 'Junior United Sei"v. 1500 30 6 Regent-street. Oriental . . . 800 21 8 Hanover-square. *Oxford&Cambridge 1170 + 26 5 6 6 P.all-mall. •'Reform . . . 1400 a 26 5 10 10 Pall-mall. Travellers' 700 21 10 10 Pall-mall. Union . . . . 1000 32 11 6 Trafalgar-square. United Service 1500 30 6 PjiU-mall. •University Club . 1000!! 26 5 6 Pall-mall. White's . . . 550 St. James's-st. Whittington . 2 2 Strand. "Windham . . 600 27 6 8 St. James's-sq. From the preceding table it will be seen that the twenty-six large clubs are nearly in one locality ; nine being in Pall- mall, and four in St. James's-street, a district hence called Club-Land. UNITED SERVICE CLUB, at the corner of Pall Mall and the opening into St. James's Park, erected 1826, by John Nash, architect. This is considered to be one of the most com- modious, economical, and best managed of all the London Club-liouses. The pictures, though numerous, are chiefly copies. JUNIOR UNITED SERVICE CLUB, N. corner of Charles Street and E. side of Rege.xt Street, rebuilt and enlarged 1857, from the designs of Messrs. Nelson and lunes, t Exclusive of Peers and Members of House of Commons. X 585 from each University. g Exclusive of Honorary, Supeniumeraiy, and Life Members, II 500 of each University, XXIV. — CLUBS. 221 The ARMY AND NAVY CLUB, in Pall Mall, corner of George Street, St. James's Square, was built 1847-50, from the designs of Messrs. Paruell and Smith. Tlie carcase or shell of the building cost 18,500/. ; the interior 16,500/. — in all 35,000/., exclusive of fittings. The comparatively- small i^lot of land on which it stands has cost the Club 52,500/., and the total expenditure may be called in round numbers 100,000/. The largest apartment is the "Morning- room." The " Library " is larger than the Drawing-room. The enrichments of the ceilings throughout are in carton- pierre and papier-mache. The principal furniture is of walnut-wood. The Kitchen is one of the successful novelties of the building, and will rejsay a visit. There is even a sej)arate cook for chops, steaks, and kidneys, who dedicates his whole time aud skill to bi'inging these favourite articles of con- sumption to the perfection they deserve. The Smoking-room, with its balcony commanding a noble prospect of cats and chimneys, is the best Club Smoking-room in London, the rooms at the Union and Garrick, pei-haps, excepted. The GUARDS' CLUB HOUSE, Pall Mall, was built 1848-50, from the designs of Henry Harrison, ai-chitect. The Club is restricted to the Officers of the Household Troops, as contradistinguished from the Line. The Household Troops are considered to be attendant on the sovereign, and are seldom sent abroad but on urgent service. WHITE'S. A Tory Club-house, Nos. 37 and 38, St. James's Street ; originally White's Chocolate-house, under which name it was established circ. 1098. As a Club it dates, I believe, from 1736, when the house ceased to be an open chocolate-house, that any one might enter who was prepared to pay for what he had. It was then made a private house, for the convenience of the chief frequenters of the place, whose annual subscriptions towards its sup- port were paid to the proprietor, by whom the Club was farmed. With reference to the great spirit of gaming whicli prevailed at White's, the arms of the Club were designed by Horace AValpole and George Selwyn. The blazon is vert (for a card-table) ; three parolis proper on a chevron sable (for a hazard-table) ; two rouleaus in saltier, between two dice proper, on a canton sable ; a white ball (for elec- tion) argent. The supporters are an old and young knave of clubs ; the crest, can arm out of an earl's coronet shaking a dice-box ; and the motto, " Cogit Amor Nummi." Round the arms is a claret bottle ticket bj' way of order. A book for entering bets is still laid on the table. The Club, 222 XXIV. — CLUBS. on June 20th, 1814, gave a ball at Burlington House to the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the allied sovereigns then in England, which cost 9849Z. 2s. 6d. Covers were laid for 2400 people. Three weeks after, the Club gave a dinner to the Duke of Wellington, which cost 2480Z. 10s. 9d. BROOKS'S CLUB, St. James's Street. A Whig Club- house, No. 60, on the W. side, but founded in Pall-mall in 1764, by 27 noblemen and gentlemen, including the Duke of Roxburgh, the Duke of Portland, the Earl of Strathmore, Mr. Crewe, afterwards Lord Crewe, and Mr. C. J. Fox. It was originally a gaming Club, and was farmed at first by Almack, but afterwards by Brooks, a wine merchant and money-lendei', who retu'ed from the Club soon after it was built, and died poor about 1782. The pi-esent house was built, at Brooks's expense (from the designs of Hemy Holland, architect), and opened in 1778. Sheridan was black-balled at Brooks's three times by George Selwyn, because his father had been upon the stage ; and he only got in at last thi-ough a ruse of Geoi-ge IV. (then Prince of Wales), who detained his advei-sary in conversation in the hall whilst the ballot was going on. The Club is restricted to 575 members. Entrance money, 9 guineas; annual subscription, 11 guineas; two black balls will exclude. The Club (like 'White's) is still managed on the farming principle. CARLTOX CLUB, Pall Mall (S. side). A Tory and Conservative Club-house, oiiginallj'' built by Sir Robert Smirke, but since rebuilt, 1850-6, and in every sense improved, by his brother, Mr. Sydney Smirke. It presents a noble and striking fagade conspicuous for its polished granite pillars ; It contains on the gi-ound floor a coffee-room, 92 feet by 37 feet, and 21i feet high, and 28^ feet high in the centre, ■where there is a glazed dome. On the first floor are a draw- ing-room, bUliard-room, and a private, or house, dinner-room. Above are smoking-rooms and dormitories for sen-ants. The exterior is built of Caen stone, except the shafts of the columns and pilasters, which are of polished Peterhead granite. The fa9ade is of strictly Italian architecture, and consists of two orders : the lower order Doric, the upper Ionic ; and each inter-columniation of both orders is occupied by an arched window, tlie keystones of which project so as to contribute towards the support of the entablature over them. The design is founded on the E. front of the Library of St. Mark's, at Venice, by Sansovino and Scamozzi. The upper order is strictly after that building, except the sculpture, which differs materially from that of the Italian example. The XXIV. — CLUBS. 223 lower order is also diffei'ent, inasmuch as the Library there has an open arcade on the ground floor, which was not admissible in the case of the Club-house. The introduction of jjolished gi^anite in the exterior architecture of this build- ing is a novelty due to the establishment of extensive machinery for cutting and polishing granite at the qviarries near Aberdeen, without the aid of which machinery the ex- pensewould have utterly precluded the useof polished granite. The chief object of the architect in introducing here a coloured material was to compensate, in some measure, for the loss of strong light and shadow in an elevation facing the K CONSERVATIVE CLUB HOUSE, on the W. side of St. James's Street. Founded, 1840, as a Club of ease to the Carlton. Built from the designs of the late George Bassevi and Sydney Smirke, 184345, on the site of the Thatched House Tavern, and opened Feb. 19th, 1845. The total cost of building and furnishing was 73,211^. 4s. 3d, the architects' commission being 3458Z. 6s. The encaustic paintings of the interior are by Mr. Sang, and were executed at an expense of 2697Z. 15s. There are 6 public I'ooms, viz., a morning and evening-room, library, coffee-room, dining-room, and card- room. In addition to these there are committee-rooms, billiard-rooms, &c. The most striking feature of the hoiise is the Hall, coved so as to allow a gallery to run round it, and the staircase, both richly ornamented in colour. The most stately room is that for evening occupation, extending fi'om N. to S. of the building, on the first floor. It is nearly 100 feet in length, 26 in breadth, and 25 in height, with coved ceihng, supported by 18 noble Scagliola Corinthian columns. The mornmg-room on the ground floor is of the same dimensions, and is very elegant in its appointment. The library occupies nearly the whole of the upper part of the N. of the building. The coffee-room, in the lower division of the northern portion of the building, is of the same proportions as the libi'ary. The Club is worked by a staff of 50 servants, male and female, the keep of whom, owing to judicious management, is said to be under 3s. S^d. per head per week. The average at the other leading Clubs is said to be from 10s. to 12s. per week. The election of members is made by the committee, 5 being a quorum, and two black balls excluding. REFORM CLUB, on the S. side of Pall]\L\ll, between the Travellers' Chib and the Carlton Club, was founded by the Liberal members of the two Houses of Parliament, about 224 XXIV. — CLUBS, the time the Reform Bill was canvassed and carried, 1830-32. The Club consists of 1000 members, exclusive of members of either House of Parliament. Entrance fee, 25 guineas ; annual subscription for the first five years of election, 10^. 10s., subsequently, 8/. 8s. The house was built from the designs of Sir Charles Barry, R.A. The exterior is greatly admired, though the windows, it is urged, ai'e too small. Tlie interior, especially the large squai-e hall covered with glass, occupying the centre of the building, is in excellent taste. The water supply is fi-om an Artesian well, 360 feet deep, sunk at the expense of the Club. The cooking establishment, when under the late M. Soyer, was excellent, and is now very good. ATHEN^UM CLUB, Pall Mall. Instituted in 1823, by the late Right Hon. J. W. Croker, Sir T. Lawrence, Su- F. Chantrey, Mr. Jekyll, &c., " for the Association of individuals known for their literary or scientific attainments, artists of eminence in any class of the Fine Arts, and noble- men and gentlemen distinguished as liberal patrons of Science, Literature, and the Arts." The members ax'e chosen by ballot, except that the committee have the power of electing yearly, from the list of candidates for admission, a limited number of persons "' who shall have attained to distinguished eminence in Science, Literature, and the Ai'ts, or for Public Services ;" the number so elected not to exceed nine in each year. The number of ordinarj' members is fixed at 1200; entrance fee, 25 guineas; yearly subscription, 6 guineas. One black ball in ten excludes. The present Club-house (Decimus Burton, architect) was built 1829, and opened 8th February, 1830. " The only Club I belong to is the Atlienseum, which consists of twelve hundred members, amongst whom are to be reckoned a large proportion of the most eminent persons in the land, in every line — civil, military, and ecclesiastical, peers spiritual and temporal (ninety-five noblemen and twelve bishops), commoners, men of the learned professions, those connected with Science, the Arts, and Commerce in all its principal branches, as well as the distinguished who do not belong to any par- ticular class. Many of these are to be met with eveiy day, living with the same freedom as in their own houses. For si.'c guineas a-year every member has the command of an excellent librai-y, with maps, of the daily papers, English and foreign, the principal periodicals, and every material for writing, with attendance for whatever is wanted. The building is a sort of palace, and is kept with the same exactness and comfort as a private dwelling. Every member is a master without any of the trouble of a master. He can come when he pleases, and stay away as long as he pleases, without anything going wrong. He has the command of regular servants without having to pay or to manage them. He can have whatever meal or refreshment he wants, at all hours, and served up with the cleanliness and comfort of his own house. He orders just what he pleases, having no interest to think of but his own. In short, it is impossible to suppose a greater degree of liberty in living." — Walker's Original. XXIV. — CLUBS. 225 In the Libraiy is a fine full-length unfinished portrait of George IV., the last work of Sir Thomas Lawrence. He was painting one of the orders on the breast a few hours before he died. The Library is the best Club Library in London. There is no Smoking-room (1856), a club-rarity in London. UNIVERSITY CLUB HOUSE, Suffolk Street, and Pall Mall East, was built by W. Wilkins, R.A., and J. P. Gandy, and opened Feb. 13th, 1826. The members belong to the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. Entrance fee, 25 guineas ; annual subscrii^tion, G guineas. The upper story (built for a Smoking-i'oom), is an addition made in 1852 to Mr. Wilkins' design. OXFORD AND CAMBRIDGE CLUB, Pall Mall. Built 1838 (Sydney Smirke, A.R.A., architect). Entrance-money, 25 guineas ; annual subsciiption, 6 guineas. Number of members, 1000. UNION CLUB HOUSE, CocKSPun Street, and S.W. end of Trafalgar Square (Sir Robert Smirke, R.A. archi- tect). The Club is chiefly composed of merchants, lawyer.s, members of parliament, and, as James Smith, who was a member, writes, " of gentlemen at large." The stock of wine in the cellars is said to be the largest belonging to any Club in London. Entrance-money, 30 guineas; annual subscription, 6 guineas. The Smoking-room at the top was built (1852) from the designs of Decimus Burton. GARRICK CLUB, No. 35, King Street, Covent Garden, named after David Garrick, the actor, and instituted 1831 " for the general patronage of the Drama ; for the purpose of combining a club on economical principles with the ad- vantages of a Literary Society ; for the formation of a Theatrical Library and Works on Costume ; and also for bringing together the patrons of the Drama and gentlemen eminent in their resioective circles." A lover of the English Drama and stage may spend an hour veiy profit- ably in viewing the collection of theatrical portraits, the property of the Club, and chiefly collected by the late Charles Mathews, the distinguished actor, whose porti-ait by Lonsdale, is over the fire-place in the principal drawing- room. Observe. — Male Portraits. — Nat Lee (curious); Doggett ; Quin ; Foote ; Henderson, by Gainshorougli ; elder Colman, after Sir Joshua ; head of Garrick, by Zoffany ; Macklin, by Opie ; J. P. Kemble, drawing by Lawrence ; Moody ; Elliston, drawing by Ilarlowe ; Bannister, hy Russell ; Tom Sheridan ; King, by JR. Wilson, the landscape painter ; Q 226 XXIV. — CLUBS. Emery ; elder Dibdiu ; Mr. Powel aud Family, by R. Wilson ; Liston, by Clint (good). Female Portraits. — Nell Gwynne (a nambj'-pamby face, uot genuiue) ; Mrs. Oldfield (half-length), by Kneller ; Mrs. Bracegirdle (three-quarter) ; Mrs. Pritchard (half-length); Mrs. Gibber (also a characteristic drawing of her) ; Peg Wof&ngton, by Mercier, (also a miniature three- quartei'); Mrs. Abington, as Lady Bab, by Hkhey (small full-length); Mrs. Siddons, by Harlowe ; Mrs. Yates; Mrs. Billington ; Miss O'Neil, by Joseph (full length) ; Nancy Dawson, dancing a hornjjipe ; Mrs. Siddons, drawing by Lmvrence ; Mrs. Inchbald, by Ilarhioe ; Miss Stephens ; Mrs. Robinson, after Sir Joshua. Theatrical Subjects. — Joseph Harris, as Cardinal Wolsey (the Strawberry Hill picture ; Harris was one of Sir W. Davenant's players, and is commended by Downes for his excellence in this character) ; Anthony Leigh, as the Spanish Friar (half-length) ; Colley Gibber, as Lord Foppingtou, by Grisoni (very good) ; Giiffin aud Johnson, in The Alchemist, by P. Van Bleeck (ex- cellent) ; School for Scandal (the Screen Scene), as originally cast ; Mrs. Pritchard, as Lady Macbeth, by Zoffany ; Mr. and Mrs. Barry, in Hamlet ; Rich, in 1753, as Harlequin ; Garrick, as Richard III., by the elder Norland ; King, as Touchstone, by Zoffany (small full-length) ; Weston, as Billy Button, by Zoffany; King, and Mr. and Mrs. Baddeley, in The Clandestine Marriage, by Zoffany (fine); Moody and Parsons, in the Com- mittee, by Vanderguchti Garrick and Mi's. Cibber, hj Zoffany, • Macklin, as Sir Pertinax Macsycophaut, by De Wilde ; Love, Law, and Physic (Mathews, Liston, Blanchai-d, and Emery), by Clint (fine) ; Mathews, as Monsieur Mallet, by Clint; Mathews in five characters, hy Harlowe ; Farren, Farley, and Jones, in The Clandestine Marriage, by Clint; C. Kembleand Fawcett, in Charles IL, by Clint; Muuden, E. Knight, Mrs. Orger, and Miss Cubitt, in Lock and Key, by Clint (flue) ; Powell, Bensley, and Smith, by Mortimer; Dowton, iu The Mayor of Garratt; busts, by 3Irs. Siddons — of Herself and Brother. Bust of Shakespeare discovered (bricked up) in pulling down (1848) old Lincoln's Inn Fields Theatre. The pictures are on view every Wednesday (except in September), between 11 and 3, and the only mod-e of seeing them is the personal introduc- tion of a member. The walls of tlie smoking-room (one of the best in London) were painted by Clarkson Stanfield, David Roberts, and Louis Haghe. WHITTINGTON CLUB and METROPOLITAN ATHE- NAEUM, 189, Strand. A cheap club for clerks and other men and women, founded (1847) with a view tc throw open to the poorer classes those increased physical comforts, and XXIV. — CLUBS. 227 facilities for moral and intellectual education, whicli are tlie most attractive characteristics of modern London life, ■vvhich associated numbers can command. The dining and refreshment rooms (where members may obtain dinner and refi-eshments at prices calculated merely to cover expenses, and free of gratuities to waiters), reading, news, chess, and smoking rooms, are open from eight in the morning till night. There is a large lecture hall, serving also for music and dancing. Classes are established for the study and pi-actice of lan- guages, chemistry, vocal music, elocution, mathematics, his- toric and dramatic literatm'e, discussion, fencing, dancing, &c. The STEAKS. A society of noUemen and gentlemen, 24 in number, who, in rooms of their own, behind the scenes of the Lyceum Theatre, partake of a five o'clock dinner of beef-steaks every Satui-day, from November till the cud of June. They abhor the notion of being thought a club, dedi- cate their hours to "Beef and Liberty," and enjoy a hearty English dinner with hearty English appetites. The room they dine in, a little Esciirial in itself, is most appropriately fitted up — the doors, wainscotting, and roof, of good old English oak, ornamented with gridirons as thick aa Henry VII.'s Chapel with the portcullis of the fouuder. Every thing assumes the shape or is distinguished by the representation of their favourite implement, the gridiron. The cook is seen at his office through the bars of a spacious gridiron, and the original gridiron of the societj^ (the sur- vivor of two terrific fires) holds a conspicuous position in the centre of the ceiling. Every member has the power of inviting a friend ; and pickles are not allowed till after a third helping. The Steaks had its oi'igin in the Beaf-Steak Society, founded (1735) by John Rich, patentee of Covent-gardeu Tlicatre, and George Lambert, the scene-painter. XXV.-THE CITY AND THE CITIZENS. Thk entire civil government of the City of London, within the walls and liberties, is vested, by successive charters of English sovereigns, in one Corporation, or body of citizens; confirmed for the last time by a charter passed in the 23rd of George II. As then settled, the corpoi-ation consists of the Lord Mayor, 26 aldermen (including the Lord Mayor), 2 sheriffs for London and Middlesex conjointly, the common councilmeu of the several wards, 206 in number, and a livery ; assisted by a recorder, chamberlain, common serjeant, Q 2 228 XXV. — THE CITY. comptroller, remembrancer, to^vn-clerk, &c. The number of liverymen is about 10,000, and of freemen above 20,000. The City is divided into 26 Wards bearing the same relation to the City that the Hundred anciently did to the Shire, each represented by an alderman, and divided into precincts, each precinct returning one common council- man. Tlae common councilmen and Ward officei's are elected annually, and the meetings of the aldermen and common council are called Wardmotes. The senior alderman represents Bridge- Ward Without, and is popularly known as " the Father of the City." The alder- men are chosen by such householders as are freemen and pay an annual rent of 1 01. ; each alderman is elected for life. The civic offices are chiefly filled by second-class citizens in point of station — the principal bankers and mex'chauts miiformly declining to fill them, and paying, at times, heavy fines to be exempted from serving. The City arms are the sword of St. Paul and the cross of St. George. The City was commonly called Cockaigne, and the name Cockney — one cockered and spoilt — is generally applied to people born within the sound of the bells of the church of St. Maiy-le-Bow, in Cheapside. AVhen a female Cockney was informed that barley did not grow, but that it was spun by housewives in the country — " I knew as much," said the Cockney, " for one may see the threads hanging out at the ends thei-eof." Minsheu, who com- piled a valuable dictionary of the English language in the reign of James I., has a still older and odder mistake. " Cockney," he says, " is applied only to one born within tlie sound of Bow bells, i.e. within the City of London, which term came first out of this tale, that a citizen's sou riding with his father out of Loudon into the coimtry, and being a novice, and merely ignorant how coi-n or cattle increased, asked, when he heard a horse neigh, 'what the horse did]' his father answered, 'the horse doth neigh;' riding farther ho heard a cock crow, and said, ' doth the cock neigh too 1 ' and therefore, Cockney by inversion thus, incock q. incoctus, i.e., raw or unripe in couutrymen's aSkirs." Every person of full age and not subject to any legal incapacity may become a freeman of the City of London on the pajmient of 6/. 5s. id. MANSION-HOUSE, the residence of the Lord Mayor during his term of office, was built 1739-41, from the designs of George Dance, the City surveyor. Lord Burlington sent a design by Palladio, which was I'ejected by the City on the in- quiry of a Common Councilman : " Who was Palladio .' — was he a freeman of the city, and was he not a Roman Catholic ? " It XXV. — MANSION-HOUSE, 229 is said to have cost 71,000?. The principal room is the Egyptian Hall, so called because in its original construction it exactly corresponded with the Egyptian Hall described by Vitruvius. In this Hall, on Easter Monday, the Lord Mayor gives a great private banquet and ball. Covers are laid with comfort for 350. It is decorated with statues by modern British artists, on which 8000?. are said to have been laid out — Caractiicus and Kgev\.i,hy Foley ; Genius and the Morning Star, by Badey ; Comus, by Louz £ 1 lived at. S. H* — Park-lane, leading to O.x^ford- o m ' street. * ^ — Down-street. Mr. Hope's "■ p I house. ^3 j — Engine-street. Hertford =- S House. 2. !1 — Whitehorse-street. At west » ? ( corner Sir Walter Scott ? ^ I lived when in town. ^ 5* f— Half Moon-street. East corner ® a house Madame d'Arhlay lived. H tg j— Clarges-street. §■ g __ Bolton-street. Bath House. g-B ° i-ij _ Stratton-street. West corner £ £• house, Miss Burdett Coutts. ^ n Devonshire House. ■ Berkeley-street. Dover-street. At Three Kings' stables, re- mains of Clarendon House. • Albemarle-street. ■ Bond-street. In No. 41, died Sterne. ■ Burlington Arcade. Burlington House. ■ Albany (let in chambers.) • Sackville-street. Swallow-street. Church. Scottish Air-street. Swan & Edgar, drapers. 266 XXXJl. — PRINCIPAL THOP.OUGHFARES. ST. JAMES'S STREET commences at St. James's Palace and extends to Albemarle-street. " The Campus Martius of St. James's-sti-eet \\niere the beaus' cavalry pace to and fro, Before they take the field iu Kotten Row." B. B. Slieridan. 06sc?Te.— East side, Wliite's Club-house, jSTos. 37 and 38 ; Boodle's Club-house, No. 23 ; and on the west side, Crock- ford's, now the Wellington Dining Rooms ; Bi-ooks's Club- house, No. 60; Arthm-'s, No. 69; Conservative Club, No. 85; Thatched House Tavern, containing three portraits, two very fine, bj' Sir Joshua Reynolds. Emimnt Inhaliitants. — Waller, the poet, from 1660 till the period of his death (1687), in a house on the west side. Pope, in "lodgings at Mr. Digby's, next door to y^ Golden Ball, on y'' Second Terras in St. James's-street." Gibbon, the historian, died, 1794, in No. 76 (S. corner of Little St. James's-street), then Elmsley the bookseller's, now the site of the Conservative Club. Lord Byron, in lodging.?, at No 8, in ISIL "When we were on the point of setting out from his lodging in St. James's-street [to go to Sydenham to Tom Campbell's], it being then about mid-day, he said to the servant, who was shutting the door of the vis-fi-vis, ' Have you put in the pistols ? ' and was answered in the affirmative." — Moore's Life of Byron. Gillray, the caricaturist (d. 1815), in No. 29, over what was then the shop of ]\Iessrs. Humphrey, the print-sellers and publishers. He threw himself out of an upstairs window, and died of the injuries he received. In this street Blood made his desperate attack on the great Duke of Ormond, when on his way home between 6 and 7 in the evening (Tuesday, Dec. 6th, 1670), to Clarendon House, at the top of St. James's Street, where he then resided. The six footmen who invariably attended the duke, walking on both sides of the street, over against the coach, were hy some contrivance stopped, or by some mismanagement were not in the way, and the duke was dragged out of his carriage, buckled to a person of great strength, and actually cai'ried past Berkeley House (now Devonshire House) in I'iccadilly, on the road tp Tyburn, where they intended to have hanged him. Tne coachman drove to Clarendon House, told the porter that his master had been seized by two men, who had carried him down Piccadilly. A chace was immediately made, and the duke discovered in a violent stiiiggle in the mud with the villain he was tied to, who regained his hoi'se, fired a pistol at the duke, and made his escape. XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 267 ST. JAMES'S STREET. Piccadilly. Piccadilly. M . Lord Walsingliam. Duke of Hamilton. Joshua Bates, Esq. Marq. of Salisbury. Earl of Zetland. Rt. Hon. E. EUice. S Earlofyarborough. i"^ V,'. E. At Horace Crockford'sJ Walpole now Wel-j lived. lington Eating House. I White's Club House. Jermyn-street. a o o .2 0) 2-2, Houee of the late Mr. RoKers (Poet). Brooks's Club - 1 ^ Old Cocoa-tree Club. I St. James's-place. Site where Sir Rich. Steele lived. Gillray, the caricaturist, killed himself from wiudow of No. 29. Kyder-street. King-street. Spencer House. No. 69, Arthur's Club. - No. 85, Conservative Club - In a bouse on this site died Gibbon, the historian Ahuack's, ' — No. 8, Lord Byron's lodging I in 1811. Pall Mall. St. James's Palace. 268 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. REGENT STREET. The most haudsome street in the metropolis. It was desiguecl aud carried out by Mr. John Nash, architect, under an Act of Parliament obtained in 1813. The street was intended as a communication from Carlton House to the Regent's Park, and commenced at St. Alban's-street, facing Carlton House, thence through St. James's Market across Piccadilly to Castle-street, where it formed a Quadrant, to intersect with Swallow-street, and then, taking the line of Swallow-street (the site of which is' about the centre of Regent-street), it crossed Oxford-street to Foley House, where it intersected with Portland-place. The reason for adopting this line was that great part of the property belonged to the Crown. Langham-place Church was built by Nash as a termination to the view up Regent- street from Oxford-street. For this purpose the tower and spire are advanced forward to the centre line of the street, and appear almost isolated from the church. In his designs for Regent-street, Mr. Nash adopted the idea of uniting several dwellings into a single fajade, so as to preserve a degi'ee of continuity essential to architectural importance ; and, however open to criticism many of these designs may be, when considered separately, it cannot be denied that he has produced a varied succession of architectural scenery, the eifect of which is picturesque and imposing, certainly superior to that of any other portion of the metropolis, and far preferable to the naked brick walls then imiversally forming the sides of our streets. The jierishable nature of the brick and composition of which the houses in this street are built gave rise to the following epigram : — " Augustus at Rome was for building renown'd, And of marble he left wbat of brick he had found ; But is not our Nash, too, a very gi'eat master ? — He finds us all brick aud he leaves us all plaster." Quarterly KevUwfor June, 1826. REGENT STREET AND WATERLOO PLACE. All Souls', Langhara-place. Nash, architect. rolytecbuic Institution. — Oxford-st. llauover Chapel. C. R.Cockcrell,+ arcliitect. Verrey, confectioner and — restaurant; good. llanover-strcet. — Lewis and Allonby, draper.s. — N W K S Conduit-street. — New Burlington-street.— The house of Et. Hon. Fredk. — Kohinson, Chancellor of Ex chequer, in OUl Burlington-street, was more than once attacked hy the mob during the Corn Kiots ot 1815, the railings torn up, win- dows and doors split open; and on March 6 one of the assailants was shot by soldierd posted within. Newman's stables, horses on the — first, second, and third floors. Vigo-street, leading to Albany and I?ond-s>frect. St. James's Hall and Restaurant.- Swan and Edgar, good mercers, &c National Institute of Fine Arts. Oiford-st. — Mayall, photographer. Argyll-street. Marlhro'-street. Williams, photographer. Iloubigant, French glover and perfumer. • Archbishop Tenison's Chapel. Nicoll, tailor. Mechi, razors and agriculture. • Marylebone-street. Piccadilly. Piccadilly. Jermyn-street. Carlton Club Chambers Regent-street Chapel. Repton, arch. — Howell and James, mercers. Maurigy's Hold, Charles-street.— -Jermyn-street. — Gallery of Illustration, formerly house of Nash the architect. Junior Unit. Ser. Club. — Charles-street. Pall-JIall. Pall-Mail. 270 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. HOLBORN, OR OLDBOURNE. A malu thoroughfare running east and west, between Drury-lane and Farringdon- street. ; From Drury-lane to Brook-street is called " High Holborn ; " from Brook-street to Fetter-lane, " Holboru ;" and from Fetter-lane to Farringdon-sti-eet, " Holborn Hill." At Brook-street stood " Holborn Bars," marking the ter- mination of the City Liberties in that direction ; and at FaiTingdon-street stood a stone bridge over the Fleet, called " Oldbourne Bi'idge." It derives its name fi-om Oldbourne, or Hilbourne, a burn or ri\T.ilet that broke out near Holboru Bars, and ran down the whole street to Oldbom-ne Bridge, and into the river of the "Wells and Fleet Ditch. This was the old road from Newgate and the Tower to the gallows at Tyburn. Up the " heavy hill " went William, Lord Russell, on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln's-Iuu-fields. The same line of road from Aldgate to Tyburn was chosen for the whippings which Titus Gates, Dangei-field, and Johnson endured in the reign of James II. Gerard, who dates his Herbal (fol. 1597) " From my house in Holborne, within the suburbs of London, this first of December, 1597," had a good garden behind his house, and mentions in his Herbal many of the rarer plants which gi-ew well in it. Observe — The Blue Boar Inn, No. 270, High Holborn, where, according to an apocryphal [story, a letter from Charles I. was intercepted by Cromwell and Ireton, disguised as troopers. The letter is said to have determined the king's execution.* (?) The corporation of London receives a penny and two- penny toll from the carts and carriages of non-freemeu entering the city. These tolls are levied at the six bars, including Holboi'u-bars. The amount I'aised yearly is between 5000?. and GOOOZ., and the money is directed to be spent in the formation of a new street from Holborn-bridge to Clerkenwell-green. The richest inlets are Temple-bar and Whitechapel-bar. The descent of Holborn-hill is so dangerous that it is in contemplation to make a viaduct from Newgate-Street to the top of Holborn-hill. * See " Handbook for London, Past and Present," p. 60. XXXtl. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 271 HOLBORN. Skimier-street. E. Victoria-street. — | Farringdon-street, covering tlic =■ I Fleet Ditch. i — Shoe-lane. „, , I o 1+ St. Andrew's, Ilolborn. J!;iy-piace.— ^ Dr. Sacheverel's Church.-Snvage, ,%e Ely Chapel. ° ' ■ Hatton-garden. — \^^ the poet, baptised in this church. — Fetter-lane. Leather-lane. — Furnival's-Inn. — . Brook-street.— Gray's-Inu-lane. — Fox-conrt, (on right hand), birth- pl.ice of Savage, the poet. Fulwood's-rents.- Rcd-Lion-street.- Kingsgate-street. King-street. Southampton-street. - Castle-street. -Site of Holhorn Bars, or limit of City Liberty without the walls. -Chancery-lane. — Great Turnstile. Lincoln's-Iuu- fields. - Little Turnstile. -New Turnstile. • Little Queen-street. Down this street Lord Russell was led to the scaffold in Lin- coln's Inn Fields. Museum-street, Drury-lane. leading to British Museum. W. Leading to Oxford-street. 272 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. STRAND. Temple Bar. E. Child'^ The Strand was not paved until ] 532. As many as nine Bishops possessed inns or hostels on tbe water side of the Strand, at the Ilefonnation. No traces of their houses but the names remain, (gee Scott's "For- tunes of Nigel." Wych-st., leading to Drury-lane.- Holy well-street. - Full of Jew-elothesmen and book-stalls. Catherine-Street, leading to Brydges-street. Lyceum Theatre. • Burleigh-street. Site of Exeter 'Chaiige. Southampton-street. • Site of Bedford House. Adclphi Theatre. ■ Behiud this Theatre is Maiden Lane, in which Andrew Mar\-ell lived and Voltaire lodged. King William-street. Electric Telegraph Office, dis- tinguished by a ball at top, which drops at 1 p.m. every day. Golden Cross. Site of Essex House. Devereux-court. Here was the Grecian CotTee-house. St. Clement's Danes Church. Site of Arundel House. St. Maiy-le-Strand Church. Site of Maypole. — Somerset House. Public office. — King's College. — No. 141. Site of Tonson's shop. — Wellington-street, leading to Waterloo Bridge. The Savoy was granted to Peter of Savoy, uncle of Henry III., 1245. — Savoy Chapel, down " Savoy Steps." Worth seeing. — Beaufort Buildings. Site of Worcester House. Cecil-street. Site of Salisbury House and New Exchange. Adam-st.: — leading to Adelphi Terrace, facing the River, in the centre house of which Garrick died. Coutts & Co., Bankers. — Site of Durham House. Sir Walter Raleieh lived here. Go down Buckingham-street and see IniRo Jones's Water Gate, all that remains of York House, built forVilliers, Dukeof Buckingham. Site of York House. Lord Bacon born here. Charing-cross Railway Station. — Northumberland House. W. Charing Cross, XXXII. — rRINCIPAL THOROUGIIFAKES. 273 FLEET STREET. Fleet ditch, now a sewer, under Farringdon-street. Fleet-st. is named from the Fleet, a stream which became a ditch and open sewer— now covered. It entered the Thames near lilackfriars bridge. On its banks stood the Fled prison. Shoe-lane, leading to llolborn. — Bolt-court. Dr. Jolinson died here. Crane-court — Scottish Hospital; Old Meeting Koom of Royal Society, when Sir Isaac Newton was I'resident. Fetter-lane, leading to Ilolbom. Peele's Cofiee House ; Newspapers filed here. Church of St. Dunstan's in -f the "S^^est. Shaw, architect. Here the Fire of London stopped. Chancery-lane. — Seven doors un, on the left, lived Isaak Walton. Cock Tavern. • Famous for Stout. ■ Bridge-street, Blackfriars. - Bride-lane, leading to Bridewell Hospital. + St. Bride's Church. Built by Wren. — To Salisbury-square, In which RichardsoD, the novelist, lived. Bouvorie - street, leading to Whitefriars and Alsatia. Serjeants' Inn. Mitre Tavern. Resort of Dr. Jolinson and Boswell. Iloare's Banking House. Inner- Temple - gate, leading to Temple Church : at W. corner house, Pope and War- burton fii'st met. ■ Rainbow Tavern. Famous for Stout. • ISIiddle-Temple-gate. Child's Banking House. Oldest Banking House in London. Site also of Devil Tavern. w. Temple Car. 274 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. CHEAPSIDE, or Cheap. A street between the Poultry (E.) and St. Paul's (W.), a continuation of tlie line from Charing Cross to the Royal Exchange, from Holborn to the Bank of England. This street, one of the most frequented thoroughfares in London, was famous in former times for its "Ridings," its " Cross," its " Conduit," and its "' Standard," and, still later, for its silk-mei"cers, linen-drapers, and hosiers. The last Lord Mayor's pageant, devised by the City poet, and publicly j^erformed (Elkanah Settle was this last City poet), was seen by Queen Anne in the first year of her reign (1702) "from a balconj' iu Cheapside." The concluding plate of Hogai'th's "Industry and Idleness" represents the City procession entering Cheapside — the seats erected on the occa- sion and the canopied balcony, hung with tapestry, containing Frederick, Prince of Wales, father of George III., and his Princess, as spectators of the scene. Obserre.—Clmvch of St. Mary-le-Bow (p. 122) ; Saddlers' Hall, nest No. 142 ; here Sir Richard Blackmore, the poet, followed the profession of a physician. No. 90, corner of Ii'onmonger-laue, was the shoi> of Alderman Boydell (d. 1S04). Before he removed here, he lived "at the Unicorn, the corner of Queen-street, in Cheapside, London." Before the present Mansion-house was built iu 1737, No. 73 was used occa- sionally as the Lord Mayor's Mansion-house. XXXlt. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. CHEAPSIDE AND POULTRY. E. ilaiision House. I it. Mildred in the Poultry- — ' Site of Poultry Compter. — ^ Grocers' Hall. — ; Old Jcwiy. — I Mercers' Hall, beliind wliicli — Thomas Becket, Archbishop of Canterbury, was born. King-sti-eet, leading to the — , Guild-Hail. Laurcnce-lanc. Milk-street. Sir Thomas More bom in. AVood-btreet. — * Gutter-lane. — Bucklersbury, leading to the beautiful church of St. Stephen's, Walbrook, one of Wren's greatest works. Queen-street, leading to South.- wark Bridge. |— St. Mary-le-Bow Church. The spire is one of Wrens great masterpieces. Bread-street. Milton bom in. Here stond the Mermaid Tavern, frequented by Skakspeare, Raleigb, Ben Jonsou. Friday-street. General Post Office. — "W. St. Paul's Church-yard. Near St. Paul's was liifhop So)ine/g Co 'I Hoi:, one of tlio worst prisons in which the -victims of the Popish Persecution under Queen Mai-y were shut up. 276 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. CORNHILL. Near the junction of Cornhill and Leadenhall-street stood the "Standard." built 15S2, for distributing water brought from the Thames bj" a forcer, invented by Peter Morris, a Dutchman. Distances along many of the high roads out of London were measured from it. Bisliopsgate-st., leading to Shoreditch. Comliill, so called, from a — corn market "time out of mind tliere bolden." Finch-lane. • Joe's Chop-house, good. -Ned's Chop-house, excellent. Site of Freeraan's-court, iu which l>e Foe lived. Royal Exchan e. — Bank of England. — Princes-street. Graccchurch-st., leading to London Bridge. St. Peter" s, Cornhill. — St. Jlichael's, Conihill. St. Miohael's-allej'. Xo. 41, Gray the poet was born ITl-^, in a house on this site. — Birchiu-lane. Change-alley. - Pope's Ilead-allej-. — Lombard-street. St. Mary "Woolnoth Ch. Mansion House. XXXII. — FRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 277 DRURY LANE. ' may thy virtue guard thee through the roads Of Drury's mazy courts and dark abodes ! The harlots' suileful paths, who _ nightly stand AVhere (Jatherine-etreet descends in- to the Strand." — Gay's "Trivia." Broad-Street, St. Giles's. Dniry-lane, bo called from the - town house of the Driiry family. It lost its aristo- cratic character early in the reiga ofWm. iii. Long Acre, leading to ■ Leicester-square. Little Russell-street, leading - to Covent-garden, Drury-lane Theatre, &c. Russell-court, footway from ■ City to Covent-gardeu. Site of Nell Gwynn's lodging, ■ where Pepys saw her " stand- ing at her lodgings' door, in her smock-sleeves and bodice," watching the milkmaids on May.day, 1667. Strand. ■ Coal-yard, birth-place of Nell Gwynn. ■ Charles-street alias Lewknor's- lane, long a notoriously bad part of London. Great Queen' s-street, leading to Lincoln's-inn-fields. • Pit-place, properly Cockpit- place, site of Cockpit Theatre (the first Drury-lane Tlieatre). ■ Prince' s-street, leading to Lincolu's-Inn- fields. Scene of seizure of Mrs. Brace- girdle by Lord Jilohun. Craven-buildings,! site of Craven House, in whicli the Queen o Bohemia died (d. 1662). St. Mary-le-Strand Church. XXXTI. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFAPvBS. CHANCERY LANE. The'' great Lord Strafford vr&s born 1595, in the house of his mother's father, Mr. Robert Atkinson, a bencher of Lin- coln's Inn. Gateway to Lincoln's-Inn, of- the age of Henry VIII. (1518). Carey-street.— Law Institution and Club.— Izaak Walton lived in tho 7th house from Fleet-st., 1627-14. Temple Bar. —Southampton-buildings. — Ciirsitor-street. —Rolls House and Chapel. In Rolls chapel is a veiT fine nionu- racut, Italian work, XVIth century, perhaps byTonegiano.to Dr.Young, whose rocumhent efflsy is finely modelled in terra cotta, while at the back appears the head of the Saviour, with a cherub on each side. The Rolls of the Court of Chancery were fornierW kept in iron presses round this chapel, extending even behind the altar. Adjoinin? it the residence of the Master of the Rolls. -New Record office. -Serjeants' Inn. Jacob Tonson the bookseller's tirst shop, 1694. Fleet-street. Fleet-street. XXXII. — PRI^•CIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 279 OXFORD STREET. A line of thoroughfare, one mile and a half long, between St. Giles's Pound and old Tyburn Tiirn- pike, and so called from its being the highway from London to Oxford. In 1708 it was kno^vu as Tyburn-road. It is, however, somewhat uncertain when it was first formed into a continuous line of street, and in what year it was first called Oxford-street. New Oxford-street, opened for car- riages March 6th, 1847, occupies the site of the "Rookery" of St. Giles, through which it was driven at a cost of 290,227?. is. lOd., of which 113,963?. was paid to the Duke of Bedford alone for freehold purchases. All that remained, in the autumn of 1849, of this infamous Rookerj' (so called as a place of resort for shai-pers and quarrelsome peojjle) was included and condensed in ninety -five wi-etched houses in Church-lane and Carrier-street, wherein, incredible as the fact may appear, no less than 2850 persons were crammed into a space of ground between 1 and 1^ acre in area. In these noisome abodes nightly shelter, at od. per head, might be obtained. The NEW ROAD is a crowded thoroughfare or continua- tion of the City-road, leading to the Regent's Pai-k, St. John's-wood, and the Edgeware-road. It was planned in 1754, and opened about 1758. Ol'serve. — St. James's Chapel, Pentonville (on the north side) ; here R. P. Bonington, the painter, is buried. — St. Pancras New Church. — Holy Trinity Church, Marylebone. — St. Marylebone New Church. CITY ROAD. A crowded thoroughfare — a continuation of the New-road, I'unuing from the Angel at Islmgton to Finsbury-squarc ; opened 1761 ; Mr. Dingley, the projector, who gave it the name of the City-road, modestly declining to have it called after his own name. Observe. — John "Wesley's chapel and grave, immediately oj^posite Bimhill- fields Burial-ground. "Great multitudes .assembled to see the ceremony of laying the founda- tion, so that Wesley could not, without much difficulty, pet through the press to lay the tirst stone, on which his name and the date were inserted on a plate of brass. ' This was laid by John Wesley, on April 1, 1777.' Probably, says he, this will be seen no more by any human eye, but will remain there till the earth, and the works thereof are burnt up.'" — Southey's Life of Wesley, ii. 385. 280 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN, So called from running in the shape of a bent bow. Long Acre. Covent Garden Theatre, or - Royal Italim Opera. On the site of this theatre lived Dr. Kadcliffe, Wycherley, and many other wits, from 1646 to 1735. Bow-street Police Office. Here - Fielding wrote his Tom Jones. Site of Will's Coffee-house. - Long Acre. Upper house, corner of King's . Arras-court, lived Griuling Gibbons. W — I— E Great Russell-street. Great Russell-street. GREAT QUEEN STREET, LINCOLNSINNFIELDS, Lincoln' s-Inn-fields. So called in compliment to Hen- rietta Maria, Queen of Chas. I. Little Queen-street, leading to - Holborn. Down t^jis street Lord Rwssell was led to the scaffold in Liucoln's- Inn-flelds. The whole of the north side was built a century later than the south. N — — S \v Drury-lane. House of Lord Chancellor Somers and the Minister Duke of New- castle, temp. George II. The whole of the south side was originally built by Inigo Jones, and from 1630 to 1730 was one of the most fashionable localities in London — the houses com- manding a fine view of Holborn- fields. Great Marlborough-st, a century later, was similarly situated with respect to Oxford- street. In one of these houses Lord Herbert of Cherbury died. In another Sir Godfrey Kneller lived for the last twenty years of his life. The large red-brick house, with an arch-way under it (now Nos. 55 and 56) was the house of Hudson, the portrait- painter, andniasterof Sir Joshua Reynolds. Drurj'-lane, XXXII. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. 281 CHARING CROSS TO WESTMINSTER ABBEY. N. -^^ I '-' o S , — Nortliumberland House. Drummomrs Bank. — 5 si — Craig's-court. j'AA Cox and Greenwood s. Admiralty. Paymaster-Gen.'s office. Horse Guards. Office of the Com.-in-Chief. Treasury. Office of tl^ Prime Minister. Site of Cockpit, in wliich Oliver Cromwell lived. Chancel, of the Exchequer. Colonial Office. MewPublic Downing-st. Offices. ° roreiim Office. India Office. !o a wS Scotland Yard. Metropolitan Police-station. Whitehall Banqueting-liousc, built by luigo Jone.s. Privy Gardens. Sir R. Peel's house. -Montague House. Duke of Buccleuch. Kichmond-terr. — Site of Duchesa of Portsmouth's lodgings. In this street died, for lack of bread, , ^ Spenser, author of the / 5* " I'aerie Queene." /if, Great George-street. To Westminster Bridge. 282 XXXTT. — PRINCIPAL THOROUGHFARES. HAYMARKET, So called from a Market of Hay formerly kept there. N. Piccadilly. Coventry-street. Between Ilaymarket, Coventry- street and Regent-street at night is a resort of the worst company in London, male and _ Coventry-conrt. Site of Picca- 7 .M i^"!'" ^'"^^''^ ' ^'""'" . CCS RUSSELL SQUARE. Built ISCO— 1806. W. E. Statue of Duke of Bedford, by Sir R. Wcstmacott. 71, Lord Chancellor Loughborough lived here. 67, Mr. Justice Tal- fourd lived. C5,SirThomasLaw- rence died here. 301 ■3 S M s=.s King-sh'eet. Built by Church of St. PauVs, Covent Garden, built by Inigo Jones. Henrietta-street. Opera rj Covent Garden. Flower Market, COVENT GARDEN W. MARKET. E. Built 1G30— 1642. , Bedford Hotel. fe cTo M a ^ I a I Great Russell-st. 3-2 '^ i Whetstone " H cc Park at back, h y" Great Qneen-st. Newcastle House at • corner. Here lived Lord Chancellor ^^omers, and the -Minister Duke of Newcastle. T.indscy House, (with 2 vases), built by Inigo Jones. I)uke-street. N. LINCOLN'S INN FIELDS. Lord Win. Russell beheaded in centre. Built 1G19-163C. Stone-buildings. Lincoln's Inn Hall, P. Hardwick, Arct. To Lincoln's no. Royal College of Surgeons. Here stood Sir William Davenant's Theatre, 302 XXXII. — PRINCIPAL SQUARES. National Gallery and Roj-al Academy of Arts. Wilkins, archt. IM Pall-mall East. College of Physicians. Union Club. n n statue of Georjce IV., by Chantrey. TRAFALGAR SQUARE. Built 1829—1850. The Fountains, of Peterhead G ranite. V— Cockspur-street. D as Nelson Column, D Church of St. Martln's-in-tlie Fields. Gibbs, archt. To the Strand. Morley's Hotel. Char. Cross branch of Gen. Post Office. Letters received later than at other offices. * The Electric Telegraph Office (distinguished by a ball at top), communicating with all parts of Europe, open night and day for messages. + Statue of Charles I. by Le Stcur. Site of Queen Eleanor's Cross. Place of execution of Regicides. AVhitehall. INDEX. A. Abxey Pai;k Cemetery, 133 Academy, Knyal, 56, 187 Achillas, Statue, 27 I Addison, Josepli, last moments of, 20 Adelplii Theatre, 182 Admiralty, the, 55 Albert, Memorial toll. R. II. I'rince, Ivi Aldersgate-street, Plan of, 2SG Aliens. 1 Almack's Assembly Rooms, 185 Anne, Queen, 4 ; and her hus- band, 8 Antiquaries, Society of, 56, 192 ; library and museum, ib. Antiquities in London, xlvi Apostolic Church (Ii-vingite), 129 Apothecaries' Hall, 240 Apsley House, pictures, &c., 10. Archwological and antiquarian ob- jects, xlviii Arcliitectural Museum, 171. Architects, Brit., Institute of, 193 Architects' Works in London, list of, xlvii Arlington-street, 262 Armourers' Company, 241 Army, British, &c.. 54 Army and Navy Club, 221 Artillery Com pan v and Ground, 242 Art (Galleries of), xliv Artists' Studios, liii Asiatic Society, 195 Astley's Tlieatre, 183 Astronomical Society, 196 Athenreum Club, 224 Audit Oiiice, 5G B. Bacon (Lord), where born, 243 Bank of England ; its origin, 61 ; its ingenious weighing and printing machines, 62 Bank Parlour, 62 Bancroft, Francis; glazed coffin of, 120 Barber Surgeons' Hall, 241 Barclay and Perkins's brewerj', 76 ; origin of the firm, 76 Barnabas (St.) Ch., Pimlico, 128 Bartholomew the Great (St.) church of, 116; Fair, 73 Bartholomew's (St.) Hospital, 20S ; quantities of medicaments used, 209; lecturer.s, &c., 210 Bath House, its fine collection of pictures, 21 Baths and Wasli-houses, 219 Battersea Park, 34 Bavarian Chapel. 130 Baynard Castle, 288 Bayswater, origin of name, 288 I'ecket(St.Thomas) where bo rn,243 Bedford-square, Plan of, 300 Bedlam, 211 Belgrave-square, Plan of, 295 Helgravia, xiii 15erkeley-square. Plan of, 296 Bethlehem Hospital, 211 Billingsgate Market, 73 Birth-places of eminentpersons, 243 Bishopsgate-street, Plan of, 287 Blackfriai's Bridge, 45 Blind, Schools and Asylums for the, 219 Bloomsijury-square, Plan of, 299 , Blucher, 4 Conner's, Bp. Coal Hole, 275 Botanical Gardens, Regent's-park, 32 ; Kew, 36 304 Bow-street, C'ovcnt-garden, 280 Bow Church, and Bow bells, 122 Breweries, 76 Bride's (St.) Church, Fleet-street, 123 ; source of AVreu's idea of its construction, ib. Bridewell, 147 ; Holbein's Picture, ib. Bridges over the Thames; London, 44; Southwark, 45; Blaek- friars, 45 ; Hungerford, ib. ; AVaterloo, 46 ; "Westminster, ib.; Lambeth, 47 ; Vauxhall, 47 Bridgewater House and Picture Galleiy, 17 British Museum, regulations,niode of admission to the Reading Room, 150; origin and pro- gress of the Jiuseum, 150 ; ground plan, 151 ; Lyciau Kooin, 152, 153 ; Egyptian an- tiquities, 153; Assyrian Room, 154; Elgin marbles, 154; Phi- galian marbles, 156; Etrus- can Room, 157, 158 ; Townley collection, 15S; Bronze Room, ib.; Portland Vase and its mishaps, ib. ; modem mar- bles, 160 ; Jledal Room, 158 ; Romano-British antiquities, 159 ; Library, ib. ; reading-room regulations, plan of,161 ; manu- scripts, ib.; prints, drawings, &c., 163 ; natural history, zoology, mineralogy, and geo- logy, 161; fossil organic re- mains, 165 ; portraits, 166 mpton Cemeterv', 133; Boilers, 170 Brooks's Club, 222 Bninel, Sirl.K., great engineer- ing work by, 47 Buckingham Palace, juggle in which it originated, subse- quent alterations, &c., 1 ; its chief pictures, 2 Budge Row, 238 Bunhill Fields Burial Ground, 134 ; its chief tenants, ib. Bunyan, 134 Burial places of eminent persons, 244 Burials in London, 132 Burlington House, 58 ; Hogarth's caricature, 59 ■ Byron (Lord), where born, 243 Byron, Wm., 5th Lord; his duel with Mr. Chaworth, 260 Cabs, regulations and fares, xxxiii Camden (AVilliam), born, 243 Camelford House, 284 Canova, anecdote of, 46 Canterbury, Archbishop, residence of at Lambeth Palace, 9 Canterbury Hall,xliv Carlton Club, 222 Carpenters' Hall, 242 Cavendish-square, Plan of, 298 Caisar, Sir Julius; his curious monument and epitaph, 120 Cemeteries and Burial Grounds, 132—135 Chancery, Inns of, 140 Chancery-lane, Plan of, 278 Cliapter House, Westminster, 109 Charing Cross to AVestminster Abbey, Plan of, 281 Charing Cross Hospital, 217 Charitable Institutions and Hospi- tals, 208—219 Charles I., parting with his child- ren, 4 ; his execution, 6 ; vicissitudes of the Charing Cross statue, 257 Charles II., born 4; statue of. 258 Charter-House School and Hospi- tal, 200 ; the poor brethren. 201 Chatham (Earl of\ where born, 243 Chaucer, where born, 243 Chcapside, description of, 274 ; Plan of, 275 Chelsea Hospital, 213 Chesterfield House, 19; its associ- ations, ib. Christ's Hospital, 202; its notabi- lities, ib. ; eminent scholars, 203; mode of admission, 201 Churches and Places of Worship, Cathedral and Episcopal, 93 — 129; Dissenting, 129, 130 ; Ro- man Catholic, 130 ; Foreign 131 ; Jews, 131, xlv ; the CiTV, xiv, xi City of London School, 206 City Halls and Companies, xi. x v, 227—242 City Prison, Hollow.ay, 149 City Road, 279 Clement's Inn, and its associa- tions, 145 Clerkenwell Sessions House, 1.33 Clothworkers' Hall, 210 305 Clubs and Club Houses, x.\i, 2-20 — 227 Coal Excbange, 71 ; number of Seamen euiployed, ib. Cockney, origin of tlie word, 229 Bath Fields House of Correc- ion, U9 ge, Heralds'. 191 Col .'ge of Physicians, 190 College of Surgeons, 190 Colleges and Schools, 196—207 Colliers, Kegulations of the port of London relative to, 4t Colonial Ofitice, 49 Commercial buildings, banks, &c., 61 — 72. [See the various heads under wluch same are placed.) Commercial Docks, 70 Companies of London, and their Halls, 234—242 Concerts and Music, xljv Conservative Club, 223 Constitution Hill, 31 Copenhagen Fields, 72 Com Exchange, 70 Comhill, description of, 276; Plan of, ib. Corporation of London, 227—230 County Courts, 138 Court of Probate. 60 Court (Presentation at) 5. Courts of Law and Justice, 133— 139 Covent Garden Market, 74 : Plan of, 301 Covent Garden Opera House, 181 Cowley, where born, 243 Cowper, the poet, suicidal inten- tions of, 51 Cremorne Gardens, xlii Crimean Memorials, 258 Cromwell, Oliver, last moments o', 134; his inauguration, 136 Crystal Palace, site of first, 27 Crystal Palace at .Sydenliam, 11 Custom House, 00 D. Danish Church, 131 Deaf and Dumb Asylum, 219 Debtors' Prisons, 149 Deptford, xxv Design, Government School of, 207 Devonshire House, 13 Dining and Supper places, xl — xlii Dissenters' Chapels, 129 Docks; West India, East India, St. Katherine's, London, Com- mercial. 6i — 70 Doctors' Co mons, 60 Domesday D 'k, 60 Dorcliester Ho I'^e, 25 Downing-street, l9, 50 Drainage, main, -< Drapers' Hall and tiardens, 235 Drawing rooms (Presentation at) 5. Dreadnought, Seamen's Hospital- Ship, 219 Drury-lane, Plan of, 277 Drury-lane Theatre, 181 Dulivich Gallery of Paintings 1, 173 Dupin, M., on Waterloo Bridge 46 K. E.\sT IxDiA Docks, 67 East India Museum, 177 Electric Telegraph, xxx Ellesmere, Earl of; his mansion and gallery, 17 Eminent persons; London bii'th- places of, 243 ; burial-places, 244 — 247 ; dwelling-places, 248—253 Engineers, Civil ; Institution of, 193 Environs of London, xlix ; 32 36, 173 Epsom Race.s, xxxii Events, remarkable, 253 — 257 Exchequer, office of the, 50 Excise Office, 50 Excursions, 1, li Execution, Public, 14R, 147 Exhibitions, Free, 118—180 Exeter Hall, 184 Exhibition of Koyal Academy, 188 Exhibitions in general, xliv ; of pictures, xlvi. (6'ee Mu- seums.) F. Farringdov Market, 73 Fishnionger.s' Hall, 236 Fish-street-hill, Plan of, 287 306 Flaxmau JIuseum, 197 Fleet Prison, the late, 149 Fleet-street, Plan of, 273 Flower Market, Covent Garden, 75, 181 Foe, De, 245 Foreign Churches and Chapels, 13', 131 Foreign Office, 49 ; Honey, xxix Foreigners, Hints to, xxx; Hotels for, xxxviii Foundling Hospital, 217 ; the Chapel, 218 Fox (C. J.}, where born, 243 Fox, Ger.., 134 Franklin Kelics, 179 Free Exhibitions. (See Museums.) Free Hospital, 217 French Protestant Churches, 131 French Roman Catholic Chapel, 130 Garrick Club, 225 ; its pictures, ib. Geographical Society, 195 Geological Society, 195 Geology (Practical), Museum of, ISO George's (St.), Koman Catholic Cathedral, 130 George's (St.), Church, Hanover- square, 127 George's (St.), Hospital, 213 George II. and his Queen, 4, 8; junction of their remains, li9 George III., statue of, 25S George IV. bora, 4; statue of, 25S German Lutheran and Evange- lical Chiu'ches and Chapel-, 131 Goldsmiths' Hall, 237 Government Offices and Establish- ments, 48-61 Gracechurch-street, Plan of, 237 Gray, where bom, 243, 276 Gray's Inn, and Gray's Inn Gar- dens, 144 Groat Qnoon-street, Lincoln's-inu- lields. Plan of, -280 Green Park, 31 ; objects to be ob- served, ih. Greenwich Hospital and Hall, xxvii, li, 215; Chapel, &c., 216 Greenwich Park, and the Astro- nomical Observatory, 34 Gresham Sir Thomas, Go, 119 Grocers' Hall, 235 Grosvenor House, its pictures &c., 15 Grosvenor-place, Plan of, 283 Grosvenor-square, Plan of, 295 Guards' Club, 221 Guildhall, 23U; its statues, &c.. ib. Guy's Hospital, 213 Haberdashers' Hall, 239 Hallowell, Capt., his present to Lord Nelsim, 114 Hampton Court, li Hnnover-square, Plan of, 297 Harcourt House, 22 Hay market (the street so called). Plan of, 28ii Haymarket Theatre, 182 Helen's (Sr.), Bishopsgate, and its interesting monuments, 119, 120 Halicarnassian Marbles, 156 Hamilton Place, 2H3 Heralds' College, 191 ; objects ol interest there, ib, Hertford Hnuse, and pictures, 22 Hervey, John, Lord; scene of his duel with Pulteney, 31 Highgate Cenie ery, 133 High-street, Southwark, Plan ^ House, 22 Holford, R. S., Esq, mansion and pictures of, 25 Holland House, anecdotes con- nected with it, lii.20; epitaph of Lord 11.. ib. Home Oftic.-, 49 Holloviay C tv Pri'Jon, 149 Hop", H. T.,'Esq., M.P., picture gallery, 23 Horse Guard.s, 54 llovseraongi-r-lane Gaol, 147 Horticulturiil i.arden and So- ciety. 196 Hospitals an-1 Charitable Institu- tions, 208— ai9 307 Hotels, xxxviii Houses and dwelling-places of eminent persons, 248 -253 House of Correction, ll9 House of Commons 40 I louses of Parliament, 37-42; mode of admission to hear debates, 42 Humane Society, Royal, 219 Hiuigerford Marlcet, 72 . 1 lungerford Suspension Bridge, 45 Hyde Park, 26; its attractions, 27 ; plan of, 28 I. IjIl'ROVEMENTS. liil— Ivi India Board, 49 Inland Reveuue Office, 50 Inns, xxxviii Inns of Court and Chancery, 140—146 Institute of Architects, 193 Institution of Civil Engineei's, 193 Institutions and Societies, 186 — 196 Intramural burials, horrors of, 132 Ironmongers' Hall, 239 Irvingite Cliurcn, 129 Italian Opera Houses: Her Ma- jesty's Theatre, ISl ; C'ovent Garden Opera, ib. James's (St.) CnnRcn, Piccadilly, 125 ; its font by Gibbons, ib. James's (St.) Hall, xli James's (St 1 Theatre, 184 James's (St.) Palace, 3 ; drawing- rooms, levees, &c., mode of presentation, &c., 5 James's (St.) Park : its history, 29 ; plan of, 30 ; objects to be observed, 31 James's (St.) Square, Plan of, 257 James's (St.) Street and its nota- bilitie.s, 266 ; Pi an of, 267 Jews' Synagogue, Great Saint Helens, 131 Joe's, 276 Johnson, Dr., at Thrale's Brewery, 76 John's (St.) Gate, Clerkenwel), 253 Judges, salaries of the, 136 Jones (Inigo), where born, 243 Jonson (Ben.) where born, 243 Juuior United Service Club, 220 Katherixe's (St.) Docks, 63 Katherine's (St.) Hospital, 32 Kensal Green Cemetery and its tenants, 132 Kensington Palace, 8 Keiihington, South, Mtiseum, 170 Kensington Gardens and the Ser- pentine, 35 Kew Botanical Gardens lii, 36 King's College and School, 198 educational arrangements, ib. King's College Hospital, 217 Kneller, (Sir Godfrey,) his dying observation, 110 L. Lamb, Charles, real works, 179 I.ambeth Hrid^'e, 47 Lambeth Palace, 9, 10 Langhaiu Place and Church, 268 Lausdowne House, 16 Law Courts. {Sue Westminster Hall ; Inns of Court, &c.) Laws relating to Foreigners, lii Leadenhall Market, 75 Learned Societies and Institu- tions, 186-19S Leicester-square, Plan of, 298 Letters, postage of, xx.Kvii. (See Post Office.) Levees, 6 Libraries— Brit. Museum, 159 City of London, 232 Londou Library, St. James's Square, 196 Lincoln's Inn, 142; its chapel, hall, and library, 143 Lincolu's-Inn-fields, Plan of, 301 Linnajan Society, 196 Livings, value ot^ 93 Lloyd's Rooms, 63; Lloyd's Re- gister, 64 Lock Hospital, Chapel, and Asy- lum, 218 Lodgings, xxxviii — xl London, geographical position of, its population, ix ; statistics of its supplies of food, sewerage, &c., x: its boundaries — 308 Westminster, xii ; Tyburnia and Belgravia, xili ; Regent's Pai'kjMarylebone and Blooms- bury, xiv ; " The City,'' XV ; Spitalfiekis and Betlinal Green, Clerkenwell and Is- lington, the Surrey side, Shad- well and Rotherliithe, xvi; bearings of the streets, xvii; its railways, &e., xviii ; how to see the Metropolis, and objects of interest on the various routes, xix ; the Thames, and objects on its banks, xx ; general hints to strangers, xxx ; foreign money, opera, races, public dinners, sports ; trial by jury, xxxi, xxxni; cab fares and regulations, luggage, xxxiii; omnibuses, xxxv ; hotels and lodgings, xxxviii ; restau- rants and dining houses, xl — xliii; supper houses, ib. revenue of City, 229; eminent persons born in, 243. (See also Post Office, Exhibi- tions, Panoramas, Remarkable Places, &c.) London and North-Western Rail- way Station, 71 London, Bishops of. Residence of the, 10 London Bridge, 44, xx London Bridge Railway Station, 71 London Docks, 68; the Wine Stores, 69 London Hospital, 217 London Institution. 195 London Library, 196 London Stone, xlviii Lord Mayor's Bhow, 229 Lyceum Theatre, 182 Lyon's Inn, 145 Magdalen IIospitai., 218 Magnus (St.) Church, London Bridge, 124 Manchester House, 22 Mansion House, the, 228 Marble Arch, 27 Markets, 72— 7r, Marlborough House, 7 Martin-in-the-Fields (St.) Church, 126 ; eminent persons buried in, 127 Martin (.John), the painter, liv Martin's (St.) Hall, 185 Marylebone (St.) Church, 127 Mary-le-Bow (St.) Church, Cheap- side, 122 Mary-le-Savoy (St.), Strand, 121 Mary Woolnoth ^St.) Church, 126 Mary's (St.) Hospital, 217 Mary's (St.) Roman Catholic Chapel, 130 Jlercers' Hall and Chapel, 234 Merchant Tailor.s' Hall, 238 Merchant Tailors' School, 204; charge for education, 205 ; eminent scholars, 206 Metropolitan Cattle Market, 72 Metropolitan Board of Works, liii Metropolitan Railway, liv Michael's, St., Cornhill, 124 Millbank Prison, 148 Milton, where born, 243 • lived, 249; buried, 245 Mint, the Royal, 57 Missionaries' Museum, 180 Model of St. I'aul's, 171 Model Prison, 149 Money, foreign, xxxi Money Orders, 51 Montague House, its portraits and miniatures, 15 Montagu, (Lady Mary W.) where born, 243 Monument, the, on Fish-street Hill, 233; suicides from its gallery, 234 Monuments, Public, 257 More, ( Sir Thomas), where born, 243 Museums and Galleries of Art, to which admission is free, 149 — 180. British MuseuBi, 149; South Kensington, 170; Dul- wich Gallery, 173; Geological, 180; Missionaries', ib.\ Na- tional Gallery, 167 ; Soane Museum, 176; Surgeons' Col- lege, 174; United Service, 179; Vernon Gallery, 171 ; Asiatic, 195; Architectural; 171; East Indian, 77 Musical Perfonnances, xliv -Munro, H. A. J., Esq., pictures of, 25 I SOD Napoleon's Will, 60 NationaKJallery,TrafaIgar-sqiiare, 167—170 National Portrait Gallery, 170 Noll Gwynn, 277 Nelson, Lord, his only interview with Wellington, 49 ; Capt. Hallowell's present to him, 114 ; column to his memory, 257 ; dress worn by him at the Battle of Trafalgar, 216; place of burial, 114 New River, 78 New Road, 279 Newgate Marlcet, 75 Newgate Prison, 146 Newgate-street, Plan of, 285 Newspapers, lii Norfolk House, and its historical records and pictures, 14 Nortlmmberland House, 11 ; its successive names and owners, ib. ; pictures and objects of interest, 12 Norwood Cemetery, 133 Nunliead Cemetery, 133 O. Old Bailey Sessions House, 138 Omnibus Routes, xxxv Opera Hojises, 181 Overy, St. Mary, 116 Oxford and Cambridge Club, 225 Oxford-street, description of, 279 P. Painter Staixers' Hall, 242 Paintings, collections of, xlvi, 9 — 25 I'alaces of the Sovei'eign : — Buclc- ingbam, 1—3; St. James's, 3—5 ; Whitehall, 5—7 ; Kens- ington, 8 Pall Mall, 260; Plan of, 261 I'ancras-in-the-Pields, St., Old Church and monuments, 120 ; New Church, 127 Panoramas and .Miscellaneous E.x- hibitions, xliii Park Lane, Plan of, 284 Parks, Palace^', and Public Build- ings, office of, 51 Parks, Gardens, &c.,xxiii: — Hyde, 26—28; St. James's, 29— 31 ; Green, 31; Regent's, ii. ; Plan of,33; Victoria, 32; Battersea, 34; Greenwich, ib. ;Richuiond, 35; Kensington, ii.; Kew, 36; Zoological, 185 Parliament, opening and proroga- tion of, 3 Parliament Houses, 37—42 Passports, 49 Paul's (St.) Cathedral, UC : ground-plan, 113; its history, 111; spoliation of Wren's de- sign by James II., 112; mo- numents, ib.; clock room, whispering gallerv. &c., 114 Paul's (St.) School, 198; emincut scholar.5, 199 Paul's (St.), Covent Garden, church and parish register, 122 Paymaster General's Office, 53 Peel, Sir Robert, mansion and pic- tures of, 23 ; room in which the late Sir Robert died, ih. Penitentiary and Pentonville Prisons, 148, 119 Penn, where born, 243 Peter the Great's Mulberry Tree, 71 ; his lawyers, 136 ; lived, 252 Physicians, College of, 190 Piccadilly, 262-264; Plan of, 265 Picton, 114 Pictures, Private Collections, 25 Pictures, collections of, public and private, iliv, 9 — 25 Places which visitors ought to see, xlviii- 1 Pleasure Seeker's List, xliii— lii Poets' Corner, 104 Pool ('The), xxvi Police Courts, 138 Police of London, 138 Polytechnic Institution, xliii Pope, where born, 243 Population of London, xii Port of London, xxvi, 43 Portland, Duke of, mansion, 22 Poi ti-rtit Gnllery, National, 170 Portman-square, Plan of, 296 Post Office, 51 ; income and extent ofthc oflice,i6. ; money orders, ib. ; general directions, 52 ; postal regulations, xxxvii 310 Poultry, Plau of the, 275 Practical Art (Department of), 207 Prerogative Will Office, 60 Presentation at Court, 5 Prince of Wales' residence, 7 Princess's Theatre, 182 Prisons, Gaols, &c., 146—149 Privy Council office, 49 Property-Tax Office, 57 Public Offices, 48 Piilteney, scene of his duel with Lord Hervey, 31 E. Kailway Stations, xviii, 71 — Passenger Ti affic, 1, li Reading Kooni, Britibh Museum, 160 Record Oftlee, 59 Reform Club, 223 Regent's Park, origin and history of, 31 ; Plan, 83 Regent-street, xxiij, 268 ; Plan of, 269 Remarkable Events, places and sites connected with, 253 — 257 Restaurants, xl — xliii Richmond Park, 35 Rolls Chapel, 60, 278 Roman Catholic Cathedral and Chapels, 130 Roman Lonrion, 71 Rookery. 279 Rothschild, Baron Lionel de, Pic- tures and articles of vertu, 24 Rothschilds' Pillar, Royal Ex- change, 63 Rotten-row, 26 Roubiliac, the Sculptor, 100 Royal Academy of Arts, 56, 187 —189 Royal Academy of Music, 1S9 Royal Exchange, 63 ; Lloyd's Rooms and Register, 63— 64 Royal Humane Society, 219 Royal Institution of Great Britain, 193 Royal Personages, statues of, 257 Royal Society, 57, 186; its por- traits, &c., ih. Royal Society of Literature, 194 Russell-square, Plan of, 300 S. Saddlers' Hall, 242 Sadler's Wells Theatre, 183 Salters' Hall, 239 Sardinian Chapel, 130 Saviour's (St.) Church, 116; ac- tors and poets buried in, 117 Savoy 272, Chapel, 121 ; Savoy Conference, ib. School of Design, 207 Schools and College.-,, 196—207 Scottisli Churches, li;9 Sculpture to be seeu, xlvi, xlvii Seamen's Hospital Ship, 219 Selwyn, George, anecdote of, 20 Serpentine Uiver. 35 Sewerage of London, 78 Shakspeare's Will, 60 Sheepshanks' pictures, 171 Sitchts of London, xliii — liii Skinners' Hall, 238 SniittifieM, 72, 253 Soaue Museum, 176 Societies and Institutions, 186 — 196 Soho-square, plan of, 299 Somerset House and its office.s, 55 ; the watch legend — num- ber of windows, 57 South Kensington Museum, 170 South Sea House, 287 Southwark Bridge, 45 Spanish Chapel, 130 Spenser, where born, 243 Spurgeon's Tabernacle, liii Stables, Royal, 3 Stafford House ; its architecture, pictures, &c., 13 ; rent, cost, &c., 14 Stamps and Taxes, office of, 57 Standard, Cornhill, 276 Staple Inn, 145 State Papers, access to, 60 Stationers' Hall, 240 Statistical Society, 196 Statues, Public, of Royal aud eminent personages, 257 Steaks Club, 227 Steamboats on the Thames, 43 Steel Yard, 288 Stephen's (St.) Church, Walbrook, 124 Stephen's (St.) Church, AVest- minster, 128 Stock Exchange, 65; mode of elec- tion, &A!IVHf ,l-LIBRARVQ^ ^NSlLIBRARYOc d/ojiivo jo'f^ ^