W^YNE s. yUCINlCH^ ': GEIS£L LIBRAtV y UNIVKSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN MiGO *^ V LA XXiA, CALHORNIA A ^ JfVAYNE S. VUCINiCH i '^ JOURNALS, PRINTED BY L. SEELEY, THAMES DITTON, SURREY. ?• i^ ^A / •-^-isi JOURNALS '•-^' l>y OF THE Rev. Messrs. ISENBEEG AND KRAPF, MISSIONARIES OF THE CHURCH MISSIONARY SOCIETY, DETAILING THEIR PROCEEDINGS IN THE KINGDOM OF SHOA, AND JOURNEYS IN OTHER PARTS OF ABYSSINIA, IN THE YEARS 18-39, 1840, 1841, AND 1842. TO WHICH IS PREFIXED, A GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR OF ABYSSINIA AND SOUTH-EASTERN AFRICA, BY JAMES M'qUEEN, ESQ. GROUNDED ON THE missionaries' JOURNALS, AND THE EXPEDITION OF THE PACHA. OF EGYPT UP THE NILE. THE WHOLE 1LLUSTRATE11 BY TWO MAPS, ENGRAVED BY ARROWSMITH. SKELEY, BURNSIDE, AND SEELEY, FLEET STREET, LONDON. MDCCCXLIII. PREFACE. The operations of the Church Missionary Society iu Abyssinia commenced in the year 1829. The Rev. Samuel Gobat and the Rev. Christian Kugler, the first Protestant Missionaries who entered that country, landed at Massowah in Dec. 1829. They were favourably re- ceived by Sebagadis, the then Ras of Tigre. Mr. Ku- gler was removed by death just one year after his land- ing at Massowah : he died in the expression of lively faith in the Redeemer, and of a. good hope through grace, on Dec. 29, 1830. Mr. Kugler^s place iu the Mission was supplied by the Rev. Charles William Isenbei'g, who reached Adowah, in Tigre, in April, 1835. He was followed by the Rev. Charles Henry Blumhardt in the beginning of 1837, and by the Rev. John Ludwig Krapf at the close of that year. In the beginning of 1830 Mr. Gobat proceeded to Gondar, the capital of Amhara, where he was kindly received and protected by Oubea, then exercising chief a VI PREFACE. authority in that part of Abyssinia.* In 1836 Mr. Go- bat was compelled by ill health to quit the Mission. Early in 1838 ojiposition to the Mission was excited by the priesthood of the Abyssinian Chiu'ch^ fomented by certain members of the Church of Rome who had entered the country. The result was, that the Mission- aries were obliged to quit Abyssinia, Oubea declaring that he was not able to resist their enemies any longer. On quitting Abyssinia, Messrs. Isenberg and Blum- hardt proceeded to Cairo. jNIr. Krapf being unwilling to relinquish the hope of re-entering Abyssinia from another quarter, determined to make the attempt to do so by Zeila, which lies without the Straits of Babel- raandeb, in lat. 11° 20' north, long. 43° 50' east. He was led to contemplate this attempt in consequence of the Missionaries, while at Adowah, ha\dng been imdted by the King of Shoa to visit his country. ]\Ir. Krapf accordingly proceeded to Mocha, where he arrived on the 28th of May, 1838. Here he met ■mih. a servant of the King of Shoa, who encouraged him to prosecute the design which he had formed, and gave him much iufonuation as to the best method of proceeding from Zeila to the capital of the King of Shoa. From Mr. Naylor, the British Consul at Mocha, Mr. Krapf met with a friendly reception, and the promise of every * The result of Mr. Gobat's residence in Abyssinia was published in 1834, in a volume entitled ".Journal of a Three Years' Residence in Abys- sinia, in furtherance of the objects of the Church Missionary Society." PREFACE. Vn assistance in liis power. While he was employed in collecting information at Mocha, he was attacked by dysentery; which reduced him so low, that he was compelled to retm-n to Cau'o, where he arrived on the 27th of September, 1838. Mr. Isenberg and Mr. Krapf now seriously delibe- rated on their futiu*e course ; and came to the conclu- sion jointly to engage in an attempt to reach Shoa by way of Zeila and Hurrm*. Should they fail in their object with regard to Shoa, it was their purpose to make their way, if possible, to the tribes of Heathen Gallas, which are spread over the country to the south- ward and eastward of Shoa. Colonel Campbell, then British Consul-General at Cairo, prociu-ed for the Missionaries a firman from the Pacha of Egypt. He also gave them letters to the Consul at Mocha, and to the King of Shoa, strongly recommending the Missionaries to then* protection and favour. Mr. Gliddon, the United States' Consul-Gene- ral at Cairo, gave them a letter, recommending them to the friendly offices of all captains of United States' vessels with whom they might meet. Thus aided and encom-aged, they started on their arduous undertaking. jNIr. Krapf thus concluded a letter from Caii-o to the Secretaries of the Chui'ch Mis- sionaiy Society, Jan. 20, 1839 : " May the Lord of Sa- baoth be our guide, our preserver, our strength, our light, and our life 1" From Mocha they crossed to the opposite coast, Vlll PREFACE. passed the straits of Babelmandeb, and on the 4th of April arrived at Tadjurra, which they found preferable to Zeila as a point of departure to the interior. After encountering the many difficulties which embarrass travellers in these unfrequented regions, they reached the frontier of the kingdom of Shoa on the 31st of jNIay, the journey having occupied thii-ty-five days. They had an interview with the King on the 7th of June, who gave them a favourable reception. The Missionaries remained together in the kingdom of Shoa until November 6, 1839 ; when Mr. Isenberg departed, to return for a season to this country. During these five months they were diligently occupied in con- versational preaching and discussion, and in obtaining a great variety of information. Mr. Isenberg had made considerable progress in translations into the Amharic Language, both while in Tigre, and after his arrival in Shoa. A leading object of his \isit to England was to print the works which he had prepared, for the future use of the Mission wherever the Amharic Language is vernacular. He arrived in London on the 30th of April, 1840. Here he completed works already commenced, and prepared several others. He eventually carried through the Press : — An Amharic Spelling Book. 8vo. Grammar. Royal Bvo. Dictionary. 4to. Catechism. Bvo. Chui'ch History. 8vo. PREFACE. IX Amharic General History. 8vo. Mr. Isenberg had prepared a Vocabulary of the Daiikali Language, which was likewise printed. Tlie object of the Mission was not only the Chris- tian population of Shoa, but the Galla Tribes exten- sively spread over the south-eastern parts of Africa. To the Galla language therefore, hitherto unwritten, Mr. Krapf s attention was much given. During Mr. Isenberg's stay in London the following Galla works, prepared by Mr. Krapf, were printed : — Vocabulary. 12mo. Elements of the Galla Language. 12mo. St. Matthew's Gospel. 12mo. St. John's Gospel. 12mo. The Committee have since received from INIr. Krapf a translation into Galla of the Book of Genesis, and of the Epistle to the Romans. While Mr. Isenberg was absent in England, Mr. Krapf, though alone, and painfully feeling the diffi- culties and disadvantages of his solitariness, occupied himself diligently and zealously in his arduous duties. Amidst much to try and discourage him, he was gra- ciously sustained in his work, and not left without tokens of the Divine blessing upon it. The nature of that work, and the difficulties and trials incident to the prosecution of it, are fully detailed in the Joui-nals of the Missionaries contained in this Volume. Dm-ing the period that Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf were together in the Mission, their communications were X PREFACE. sometimes addressed to the Committee jointly, and sometimes independently. In placing those commu- nications before the reader, the chronological order has been followed. Hence sometimes one speaks, and sometimes the other. The tenour of the remarks will, however, generally indicate the individual who makes them. From the period when Mr. Isenberg quitted Shoa, in the beginning of November 1839,* it is of course Mr. Krapf alone that speaks. Mr. Krapf's private affairs having called himto Egypt, he left Ankobar on the 10th of March, 1842. He de- termined to go by Goudar and Massowah. One object was personal communication with the new Abuna, the ecclesiastical head of the Abyssinian Church. In this ob- ject he was disappointed. Just before he reached Daunt, in the province of Belissen, his progress was stopped in consequence of the country having been thrown into a state of confusion by hostilities between two of the Chiefs of that part of Abyssinia. Hence he was obliged to retrace his steps to Gatira, the capital of a Chief named Adara Bille. This man on Mr. Krapf's advance had treated him with kindness, and gained his confidence. He now, however, determined to plunder him. By a series of artful proceedings he effected his purpose, and stripped Mr. Krapf of the whole of his property. His life itself was seriously endangered. A gracious Providence rescued him from the perils of his situa- tion. Having obtained leave to depart from Gatu'a, he *p. IGO. PREFACE. XI determined to attempt reaching Massowah by a route directed to the north-east. Throughout this journey he encountered great hardships^ privations, and dan- gers; but under the defence of the Most High, in whom he trusted, he was brought to Massowah in safetj^, on the 1st of May, 1842. This journey led Mr. Krapf through parts of Abyssinia not previously traversed by Europeans. This portion of his Journal is therefore of much interest for the geographical infor- mation which it contains, as well as for the insight which it gives into the state of the people. In Egypt Mr. Krapf met his fellow labourer Mr. Isenberg returning to Abyssinia. Mr. Blumhardt, their former associate in Tigre, had been transferred by the Committee to the North India Mission. He had been replaced in the Abyssinian Mission by the Rev. John Miihleisen, who reached Cairo in company with ]\Ir. Isenberg. The three Missionaries and Mrs. Krapf, to whom Mr. Krapf had been united in Egypt, left Cairo on the 17th Oct. They reached Aden on the 2nd of Nov. On the 18th of Dec. they sailed for Tadjun'a, and reached that place on the 20th. Here they found a series of obstacles opposed to their re- entrance into Abyssinia. Having in vain employed every means in their power to surmount those obstacles, they were compelled to relinquish the attempt and return to Aden. Of the precise nature of the causes which operated to close the door against the return of the Missionaries to Shoa we are not at present fully in- xii PREFACE. formed. From what has transpired, however, it is pro- bable that they are of the same description as those which led to the expulsion of the Missionaries from Tigre — the jealousy of the Priesthood and politico- popish intrigue. Reference will be seen in the Journals to a French traveller, M. Rochet. He arrived in Shoa in Oct. 1839. After some stay there he returned to France, and in 1841 published at Paris a volume entitled, " Voyage dans la cote orientale de la ]\Ier Rouge, dans la pays d'Adel, et la Royaume de Choa.'^ (Shoa.) In the course of his work he gives an account of the eccle- siastical affairs of Abyssinia. He closes this account Avith the following remarks, which instructively warn Protestants — if warning were needed — of the policy and plans of Rome. " The critical state of Christianity in the kingdom of Shoa should call for the efforts of a Catholic Mission to that country. I should desire that Missionaries of this communion might succeed in rallying the Amharras round it; but I think there is not a more delicate task — that there is not a work which demands more prudence: an ardent inconsiderate zeal would endanger all. Our Missionaries should not forget that the heat of the Portuguese Jesuits lost all the advantages which Catho- licism had previously obtained, and ended by causing them to be driven out of Abyssinia in the sixteenth century. The Abyssinians still remember the violent dissensions which the vehemence of the Jesuits had PREFACE. Xlll created among them. The last traces of this remem- brance — grievous precedent for Catholicism — must be effaced by means of forbearance and tolerance. Our Missionaries ought even to be cautious of avowing then* intention. It will, I doubt not, be for the interest of their cause — and an able and auspicious pohcy— only to present themselves at first as chemists or mechanics, after the example of the Jesuits who conducted, in the seventeenth century, the glorious China Missions. I beheve it unnecessary to add, that a cold, reserved course should only be observed until their credit with the king and their influence over the country should be solidly established by their successful labours. Their efforts should at first be directed toward the king, for on his conversion alone would depend that of the Amharras. Attempts on the Gallas might be tried, by representing to the prince of what political advantage it would be for him to unite all the members of his states in the same unity of faith. It would be necessary to avoid showing any jealousy or animosity toward the jNIethodist Mission, whose vnse conduct ought on the contrary to be followed as a model. In every circumstance it would be necessary always to keep in view that the slightest imprudence, the least rashness, would suffice to destroy for ever in Abyssinia the entrance of Catholicism, per- haps of Christianity and of Civilization.'^* It is scarcely necessary to say that the " Methodist Mission" to which M. Rochet refers, is that of ]Messrs. * Rochet, pp. WJ, 190. a 5 XIV PREFACE. Isenberg and Kvapf. The Readers of their Journals will, however, not fail to remark that they pursued a course widely different from that advocated by M. Ro- chet for Rome. They uniformly avowed their cha- racter as Protestant Missionaries; whose only object was, the Lord blessing their labours, to diffuse Scrip- tural light in a region of spiritual darkness. Whether a re-entrance into Abyssinia may be prac- ticable to the Missionaries at a future period, it would be vain to speculate. That a measure of scriptural light has been diffused by their instrumentality cannot be doubted. Many copies of the New Testament in Amharic, supplied by the liberality of the British and Foreign Bible Society, have been widely dispersed. They were received with avidity wherever the Mission- aries had an opportunity of circulating them, and in Mr. Krapf's journeyings copies were found in remote places, far distant from any spot previously visited by a Missionary. We may therefore warrantably hope that a portion at least of the good seed will take root, and bring forth fruit to perfection. As it appears that rivers of considerable magnitude fall into the Indian Ocean from those parts of Eastern Africa inhabited by the Heathen Galla Tribes, Mr. Krapf had it in contemplation to make an attempt to re-esta- blish the ]\lission in that direction, so soon as circum- stances would permit. During the period of Mr. Krapf s residence at An- kobar, a communication was opened between the King PREFACE. XV of Shoa and the British Authorities in India. An Embassy, under the direction of Captain Harris, was sent to Shoa by the Governor-General of India. Cap- tain Harris reached his destination in July 1841. A Treaty was concluded between Captain Harris and the King of Shoa on Nov. 13, 1841, establishing a com- mercial intercoui'se between the two countries, and gua- ranteeing the safety of British subjects in Shoa, and the security of their property. At the solicitation of Captain Harris, Mr. Krapf acted as his Interpreter in negotiating the Treaty; and in a despatch to the Bombay Government, Captain Harris thus recorded his sense of the value of Mr. Krapf s semces : — " Mr. Krapf has submitted with the utmost good- will to continual interruption in his more immediate quiet avocations, and has never required even the inti- mation of a wish to render himself of the greatest utility to the Embassy ; not only in the more delicate forms of interpretation, which he so well understands, but also in those minor points of annoyance which are certain in the first instance to arise in a strange country. From the first day of our arrival he has, in utter con- tempt of all weather, been engaged whenever the inte- rests of the service required his presence ; and without his most able assistance, and perfect knowledge of Abys- sinian life, our situation would have become perplexing, and our prospect of success removed to a far distant pcriod,^^ XVI PREFACE. Throughout Captain Harris's stay in the country, he showed Mr, Krapf much kindness, and rendered to him and the Mission many services. The Embassy having been recalled, Captain Harris has just arrived in England. We understand he is about immediately to lay before the public the information collected oy him during eighteen months residence in Shoa. The character which Captain Harris has already established as a Traveller, in South Africa, warrants the anticipa- tion that his work on Abyssinia will prove both interesting and important. Reference has already been made to the geographi- cal information comprised in the Journals now laid before the public. Of a portion of this information Mr. M'Queen availed himself, with the permission of the Committee, in his '* Geographical Survey of Africa," published in 1840. On being shewn the sub- sequent Journals of the Missionaries, he was so much struck with the extent and value of the geographical information contained in them, that he very kindly offered to draw a Map of Abyssinia, to accompany the publication of the Journals, exhibiting the information thus acquired. This offer the Committee gratefully accepted, and the Map, engraved by Arrowsmith, is pretixed to the Journals. "While Mr. M'Queen was thus employed, tidings reached this country of the result of certain Expeditions sent up the A\liite Nile by that remarkable man, PREFACE. XVll Mahomed Ali, Pacha of Egypt. The information thus obtained having an important bearing on south-western Abyssinia, as well as on the country south of Nubia, almost to the Line, INIr. INPQueen had the goodness to draw another ]\Iap, exhibiting that information, which he presented to the Committee. This Map in- cludes the countries from 5" South to 18° North Lati- tude, and from 5° to 44° East Longitude. In constructing these IMaps Mr. M'Queen has availed himself, with great labour, of the information bearing on the geography of the countries to which they refer, which was accessible to him in the writings of authors ancient and modern. Among these, Bruce merits par- ticular notice, the statements contained in his Travels relative to the geography of Abyssinia, and the sur- rounding countries, having, in its general character, been very remarkably corroborated by later travellers. To the serA-ices just referred to, Mr. jM^Queen has added another — a Geographical Memoir, to illus- trate the Maps. On this- Memoir IMr. McQueen has bestowed much research, and it forms a valuable addi- tion to the services already rendered to Africa, by this able geographer. The Map of Africa is prefixed to the Geographical Memoir. To Captain Haines, the Commandant at Aden, the Committee owe the expression of their cordial thanks for his uniform kindness to the Society's Missionaries, and for the valuable assistance which he has at all times PREFACE. shown himself ready, promptly and cordially, to render them in the prosecution of their labours. CHURCH MISSIONARY HOUSE, SALISBURY SQUARE, August 21, 1843. CONTENTS. PART I. JOURNEY FROM ZEILA TO ANKOBAR. CHAPTER I. DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA — COSTUME AND FOOD OF THE INHA- BITANTS — MESSAGE FROM THE GOVERNOR — DEPAR- TURE FROM ZEILA ARRIVAL AT TADJURRA INTER- VIEW WITH THE SULTAN — DESCRIPTION OF TAD- JURRA — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING CAMELS AND MULES — VISIT FROM THE SULTAN — DETENTION AT TADJURRA INTENSE HEAT OF THE WEATHER NO- TICES RESPECTING ENAREA, SIDAMA, AND GURAGUE DISCUSSION WITH A TIGRE MERCHANT RESPECT- ING ISLAMISM. ----... CHAPTER II. PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTING FROM TADJURRA — SEL- FISHNESS OF MAHOMED ALI — DEPARTURE FROM TADJURRA NOTICES OF AMBABO, DULLUL, SUKTA, AND SAGGALLO — PECULIARITIES OF THE DANKALI XX CONTENTS. PEOPLE — DEPARTURE FROM SAGGALLO — NOTICES OF THE SALT LAKE ASSAL CONVERSATION WITH ALl ARAB RESPECTING THE DANKALI TRIBES INSTANCE OF THE SULTAN OF TADJURRa's WEAKNESS — ARRI- VAL AT GAGADE INTENSE HEAT — DEPARTURE FROM GAGADE, AND ARRIVAL AT DALIBUI, A DANAKIL SETTLEMENT — PROCEED THROUGH THE VALE OF KURRI, SAGGADERE, AND ARRIVE AT LITTLE MARHA — DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MARHA, PASSING GA- LAMO, ADAITA, AND ENCAMP IN THE VALE OF RAMU- DELl DEPARTURE FROM RAMUDELI — APPREHEN- SION OF ROBBERS — DEPARTURE FROM BARUDEGA — ALARMED BY HYENAS — DEPARTURE FROM GAIEL, AND ENCAMP AT ALIBEKELE — CHARACTER OF THE ISSA SOMALS DEPARTURE FROM ALIBEKELE, AND ARRIVE AT MULLU, ------ IG CHAPTER III. TAKE LEAVE OF MAHOMED ALI — DEPARTURE FROM MULLU — NOTICE OF A SKIRMISH BETWEEN THE DE- BENIK We'eMAS AND THE MUDAITUS ARRIVE AT METTA LEAVE METTA, AND ENCAMP AT HAMUISSA ARRIVE AT LITTLE MULLU ELEPHANT HUNTING — DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MULLU, AND ENCAMP AT BERDUDA NOTICE OF THE DANKALI TRIBES IN- HABITING THESE REGIONS — LEAVE BERDUDA, AND CROSS THE PLAIN HALAKDIGGI — ABUNDANCE OF GAME — ARRIVE AT THE RIVER HAWASH — NOTICES OF IT VISIT TO A LAKE WEST OF THE HAWASH — DEPARTURE FROM MELKUKUYU, AND ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF FARRI — DEPARTURE FROM FARRI, AND ARRIVE AT ALUI AMBA — INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR DEPARTURE FROM METATIT — ARRIVAL AT ISLAM AMBA VISIT TO THE KING, AND KIND RECEPTION BY HIM — ARRIVAL AT ANGOLLALA IN- TERVIEWS WITH THE KING — HIS DESIRE FOR ME-; CONTENTS. XXI DICINE — BECOME ACQUAINTED WITH MARETSH, AN IN'FLUEXTIAL GOVERNOR OF THE ABEDTSHOO GALLAS INSTANCES OF THE KING's SELFISHNESS — DEPARTURE OF THE KING FOR ANGOLLALA CON- VERSATION WITH A PRIEST OF BULGA ON FASTING ABYSSINIAN CHRONOLOGY VILLAGES AROUND AN- GOLLALA EXCURSION TO THE RIVER TSHATSHA DEPARTURE FROM ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVAL AT ANKOBAR. - 43 PART II. RESIDENCE AT ANKOBAR. CB AFTER I. ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT ANKOBAR INTERVIEW WITH HIM PARTICULARS OF THE GALLA TRIBES TO THE NORTH OF SHOA — GUEBRA GEORGIS EXPRESSES A WISH FOR INSTRUCTION — VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE — PARTICULARS OF THE KINO OF SHOA AND HIS FAMILY ABYSSINIAN FASTS — ACCOUNT OF THE SECT OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF COM- MENCES A VOCABULARY OF THE GALLA LANGUAGE ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF ANKOBAR OPINIONS RESPECTING THE WORSHIP OF THE VIRGIN MARY CONVERSATION WITH PRIESTS OF DEBRA LIBANOS RESPECTING THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST — SHOAN MEASURES AND RATES OF BARTER — LEAP-YEAR OF THE ABYSSINIANS — PARTICULARS RESPECTING THE GURAGUE COUNTRY — LIST OF yETHIOPIC BOOKS — FEAST OF TECLA HAIMANOT — VISIT TO THE CHURCH XXU CONTENTS. OF ST. MICHAEL — ABYSSINIANS' NEW YEAK — GALLA TRIBES IN THE SOUTH OF GURAOUE CONVERSA- TION WITH A PRIEST ON CHRONOLOGY STRANGE STORY VISIT TO DEBRA BERHAN — INTERVIEW WITH THE KING VISIT TO TEGULET, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF SHOA -------82 CHAPTER II. RETURN TO ANKOBAR — ACCOUNT OF A SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY — REMARKS — SLAVES IN THE SERVICE OF THE KING — CONVERSATIONS ON VARIOUS SUB- JECTS — NOTICES OF THE GOVERNMENT, DISCIPLINE, AND USAGES, OF THE ABYSSINIAN CHURCH — VISIT TO THE KING AT ANGOLLALA DISCUSSION WITH DEBTERA SANDJAR ON DOCTRINAL POINTS — MR. ISENBERG's INTERVIEW WITH THE KING PREVIOUS TO HIS DEPARTURE FROM SHOA — MR. KRAPF RE- TURNS TO ANKOBAR VISIT TO ALACA WOLDA HANNA — CONVERSATION WITH PRIEST TSEDDOO ON BAP- TISM VISIT TO THE ALACA OF AFERBEINI — CUS- TOMS OF THE GALLAS— ABYSSINIAN MODE OF IN- STRUCTING YOUTHS — CEREMONY AT BAPTISM — NO- TICES OF VARIOUS TRIBES ----- 1 ] -i CHAPTER III. DEPARTURE OF MR. ISENBERG FROM ANKOBAR— NOTICES RESPECTING SOME ANCIENT SAINTS REVERENCE FOR THE SABBATH BY THE GALLAS DISCUSSION WITH A DEBTERA ON ORIGINAL SIN — CONVERSATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS ABYSSINIAN REMEDY FOR THE SMALL-POX SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION — DISCUS- SION ON THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST ATTACKED BY FEVER — THE FAST OF TSOMA LEDAT — COPIES OF THE AMHARIC SCRIPTURES DISTRIBUTED — NOTICES CONTENTS. XXUl OF THE GALLAS DWELLING IN THE EAST OF GURAGUE VISITED BY PRIESTS FROM GURAGUE — BAPTISMAL CEREMONY -------- 160 CHAPTER IV. MR. KRAPF ACCOMPANIES THE KING ON AN EXPEDITION AGAINST THE 6ALLA TRIBES — THE KING's ARMY — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON FASTING AND OTHER SUBJECTS — RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES OF THE GALLAS VISIT TO A VILLAGE A GALLA GRAVE NOTICES OF VARIOUS GALLA TRIBES (THROUGHOUT THE chapter) — CONVERSATION WITH PEOPLE FROM THE NORTH OF SIIOA, AND OTHER PLACES INTER- VIEW WITH TSHARA, SON OF THE QUEEN OF MULO- FALADA FAVOURABLE RECEPTION — MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS OF MAITSHA — SOURCES OF THE HAWASH — RETURN TO ANGOLLALA — HOT WELLS IN THE TERRITORY OF FINIFINI — ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA — RECEPTION OF THE KING — REMARKS ON THE ADVAN- TAGES GAINED BY THE EXPEDITION - - . 187 CHAPTER V. CONVERSATION WITH DEBTERAS — PREPARATIONS FOR THE FORTY DAYS FAST OF THE ABYSSINIANS — SUPERSTITIOUS OPINION — ABYSSINIAN LITERATURE VISITED BY A PRIEST OF BULGA — MODE OF EX- PLAINING SCRIPTURE — DEMAND FOR ^ETHIOPIC SCRIPTURES — SUPPOSED ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — NOTICES OF A GALLA TRIBE CALLED WATO — VISIT TO THE MONASTERY OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF ACCOMPANIES THE KING TO DEBRA LIBANOS ARRIVE AT SENA MARKOS, A HOLY PLACE OF THE ABYSSINIANS — ARRIVE AT DEBRA LIBANOS — VISIT TO THE WELL OF TECLA HAIMANOT — MIRACULOUS xxiv CONTENTS. POWERS ATTRIBUTED TO THE WATER — SUPERSTI- TIOUS PRACTICE RETURN TO ANKOBAR — NOTICES OF CAMBAT — LETTER FROM THE KING TO THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY — FURTHER NOTICES OF THE CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS — NOTICES OF WOLAMO, CAFFA, AND SENTSHERO. . _ - - - 226 PART III. JOURNEY FROM ANKOBAR TO MASSOWAH. CHAPTER I. MOTIVES FOR UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY — DEPAR- TURE FROM ANKOBAR GOOD FEELING MANIFESTED BY THE PEOPLE TOWARD MR. KRAPF ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA INTERVIEW WITH THE KING DISTRI- BUTION OF SCRIPTURES — FAREWELL VISIT TO THE KING — LEAVE ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVE AT DEBRA BERHAN — TRADITIONS RESPECTING IT POPULA- TION — ARRIVE AT BOLLO WORKIE CELEBRATED MARKET HELD HERE — ARTICLES OF TRADE ORIGIN OF THE NAME BOLLO WORKIE — SUPERSTITIOUS OPINIONS OF THE ABYSSINIANS ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF LOGHEITA WELL RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR — MONASTERY OF SAINT ABBO — LEAVE LOGHEITA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST — EN- QUIRIES RESPECTING THE ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF THE DIFFERENT PROVINCES OF SHOA ARRIVE AT ZALLA DENGAI — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION BY ZENAMA WORK, THE CONTENTS. XXV MOTHER OF THE KING OF SHOA — ORIGIN OF THE NAME ZALLA DENGAI DEPARTURE FROM ZALLA DENGAI CROSS THE RIVER MOFER — ENTER THE PROVINCE OF MANS NOTICES OF ITS FORMER RULERS — CHARACTER OF THE MANSIANS SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF MANS LEAVE WOKAN, AND ENTER THE DISTRICT OF LALO TRADITION RESPECTING THE LAKE ALOBAR — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF AMAD-WASHA DISTRIBUTION OF AMHARIC SCRIP- TURES LEAVE AMAD-WASHA — SUPERSTITION OF THE PEOPLE ARRIVE AT DAIR, THE FRONTIER OF SHOA — VISIT THE GOVERNOR. - - . . £61 CHAPTER IT. DEPARTURE FROM DAIR — VILLAGE OF GOLTA — ENTER THE COUNTRY OF THE WOLLO GALLAS — THEIR CHA- RACTER — MOUNTAINS OF THE WOLLO COUNTRY ARRIVE AT GATIRA INTERVIEW WITH ADARA BILLE FRIENDLY RECEPTION LEAVE GATIRA NO- TICES OF BERROO LOOBO, THE CHIEF OF WORRA KALLO ARRIVE AT NEGASSI DATCH VISIT THE GOVERNOR, SIDI MUSIE HIS SUSPICIOUS BEHA- VIOUR LEAVE NEGASSI DATCH, AND ENTER THE TERRITORY OF CHARSO PERILOUS SITUATION ARRIVE AT TANTA, THE CAPITAL OF WORRA HIMANO — KINDLY RECEIVED BY THE CHIEF, IMAN LIBAN — POPULATION OF TANTA — EXTENT OF THE TERRI- TORY OF IMAN LIBAN — DEPARTURE FROM TANTA, AND ARRIVE AT THE RIVER BASHILO — BERROO ALIGAS, GOVERNOR OF WADELA, ATTACKS THE TERRITORY OF IMAN LIBAN MR. KRAPF IN CON- SEliUENCE RELINQUISHES HIS INTENTION OF PRO- CEEDING TO GONDAR, AND RETREATS TOWARD GA- TIRA — REASONS FOR PREFERRING THE TADJURRA ROAD TO THAT OF MASSOWAH — MARKET OF TOTOLA — RETURN TO GATIRA — INTERVIEW WITH ADARA XXVI CONTENTS. BILLE — HIS HYPOCRITICAL PROFESSIONS OF FRIENDSHIP HIS TREACHEROUS AND COWARDLY TREATMENT OF MR. KRAPF, WHOM HE ROBS AND IMPRISONS — PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF. -----__- 319 CHAPTER III. ARRIVE AT THE LAKE HAIK — DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKE VISIT TO A CONVENT ON AN ISLAND IN THE LAKE NOTICES OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE ISLAND — POPULATION ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. DEPARTURE FROM LAKE HAIK — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF BORA HIGH MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OF BORA — ORIGIN OF THE NAME TEHOO- LADERE — LEAVE BORA, AND CROSS THE RIVER MILLE THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL — ARRIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF WORRA KALLO, AND HALT AT THE VILLAGE OF LEEBSO — KIND RECEPTION — DE- PARTURE FROM LEEBSO — CROSS THE RIVER ERGEBBO FEROCIOUS CHARACTER OF THE RAIA GALLAS — COFFEE TREE ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER ERGEBBO — CHARACTER OF THE YECHOO PEOPLE REMARKS ON ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY SINGULAR CUSTOM OF THE YECHOO WOMEN — IM- MENSE PLAINS IN THE YECHOO COUNTRY — CROSS THE RIVER MERSA MANNER OF PLANTING PEPPER ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MERSA HOSPITA- BLE RECEPTION CONVERSATION WITH MAHOME- DANS — DEPARTURE FROM MERSA — SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOMS — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHELTE — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING ACCOMMODATION — MARKET OF WOLDAIA VILLAGE OF GOODDO AP- PEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHAL CONVERSATION WITH A WOMAN LEAVE SHAL AFTER SOME DELAY REACH THE PROVINCE OF ANGOT CLIMATE OF ANGOT ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SARAGADEL, LEAVE SARAGA- DEL, AND REACH THE VILLAGE OF DELDEI. - - 403 CONTENTS. xxvii CHAPTER IV. DEPARTURE FROM DELDEI — CONA'ENT OF SHAMADO MA- RIAM DESTITUTE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF ENALKA — CONVER- SATION WITH A PRIEST — KIND RECEPTION BY THE GOVERNOR OF ENALKA — LANGUAGE AND CHARAC- TER OF THE AGAUS DEPARTURE FROM ENALKA NOTICES OF LAKE ASHANGHE — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT APPREHENSION OF AN ATTACK FROM THE TROOPS OF WOLDA MEDHEN — INTERVIEW WITH HIM UNEXPECTED KIND RECEPTION AR- RIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF BORA CONVERSATION WITH THE- GOVERNOR OF A VILLAGE — PASS THE RIVER SHEMSHEHO— ABUNDANCE OF FISH ARRIVE ON THE FRONTIER OF THE WAG COUNTRY — KIND- NESS OF THE GOVERNOR — ARRIVE AT THE RIVER TZANA RECEIVE UNFAVOURABLE NEWS RESPECT- ING THE STATE OF THINGS IN TIGRE AFTER CON- SIDERABLE DIFFICULTY, ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MAWOINI — KINDLY RECEIVED BY A MONK — ARRIVE AT ANTALO — CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON RELIGIOUS SUB- JECTS — NOTICES RESPECTING THE TOWN OF ANTALO DEPARTURE FROM ANTALO IMMENSE FLOCK OF BABOONS SITUATION OF CHELICAT — ARRIVE AT ADIGRATE VISIT THE CHURCH OF ST. CHIRKOS SITUATION OF ADIGRAT VILLAGE OF MAMBEROT INHOSPITALITY OF THE TIGRIANS LEAVE MAMBE- ROT, AND ARRIVE AT BEHAT CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OF SENAFE VILLAGE OF SHEMASANU — VISIT THE ALACA OF THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE CONVERSATION WITH HIM ON FASTING LEAVE MESHAIKH DISPUTE WITH THE GOVERNOR OF SE- NAFE — ARRIVE AT TEKUNDA WELL RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR DEPARTURE FROM TEKUNDA, AND ARRIVE AT ARKEEKO ARRIVAL AT MASSOWAII - 4G2 <^ # t •• • • " '* A GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR ON EASTERN AND CENTRAL AFRICA. Within the last few years, the geographical features of Africa have begun to assume something like a natural and a rational shape. Every day brings us some important geographical information regarding interesting portions of that vast Continent. Some of this is entirely new, and other portions of it confirmatory of the accounts col- lected and transmitted to us by the ancients, but which modern wisdom would neither allow to be possible nor correct. The attention of the world is now, how- ever, so closely directed to that fine, but hitherto much neglected quarter of the Globe, that its interior and least known parts, have already been widely explored, and will, it is confidently predicted, in a few years more, be explored to their deepest recesses, and correctly delineated. b [2] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. Among those to whooi African Geography and the friends of Africa are at this moment deeply indebted, — Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf, the worthy Missionaries sent oat some years ago by the Church Missionary Society, to preach the Gospel in the Eastern and interior parts of Africa, — claim the first place. The travels and the labours of these excellent men, have been the first to bring before the British Public correct information regarding that in- teresting, and once celebrated portion of Africa, lying to the south of the Straits of Babelmandeb, to the south- east and south of Abyssinia, and the upper and early course of the Bahr-el-azreek, or the Blue Nile. The Journals of these men form the principal object and con- tents of the present publication, and are so interest- ing, from laying before us, as they do, the highlands which give birth to, and which separate the waters of some of the largest and most important Rivers in Africa, that the v,rriter of this considered it but justice to these individuals, and of importance to a right understanding of the subject, to arrange and delineate in a map their travels and all the other important information which he has lately collected and obtained regarding the Eastern and Central portions of Africa, more immediately con- nected with the journeys and information given by the Missionaries alluded to. With great labour, and with much care, this has accor- dingly been done. The present memoir narrates, in a form as condensed as possible, the general heads of the subject, together with the authorities from which the information has been drawn, and the reader will be able to trace the descriptions and journeys on the accompanying maps. From these he will perceive the importance of the infor- GEOGEAPHICAL MEMOIR. [3] mation which has been obtained and collected, and the remarkable errors which have hitherto prevailed in the Geography of this portion of Africa, arising in many in- stances, not so much from the want of information, as from the carelessness with which that has been examined, and as if it were from a determination to resist the truth. The information which our Countryman Bruce collected and received, regarding the portion of Africa more espe- cially under consideration, was not only extensive, but ac- curate and important. If he had been fortunate enough to have had an Arrowsmith or a Wyld at his elbow, to de- lineate on a map the information which he had collected, the great features of all the most important portions of the Geography of Afi-ica to the North of the Equator, would have been placed before the eyes of Europe sixty years ago. His account of Abyssinia, and several places adjacent to it, is the best that has yet come in the writer's way. As we proceed, this fact will be clearly established. The general correctness of the features of this portion of Africa as drawn by Ptolemv, will also be shewn and ascertained. The travellers and authorities from which the writer has drawn information will be carefully and faithfully pointed out. But he would be acting unjustly if he did not take this opportunity of returning his cordial thanks to M. Jo- mard, of Paris, well known for his great attention to every part of African Geography, for the great kindness shewn by that gentleman in transmitting him, by the earliest possible opportunity, the official abstract of the voyage of discovery directed by the present Viceroy of Egypt, about three years ago, to explore the Bahr-el-abiad, or White River. This has been done in a remarkable manner, and is one of the most interesting and im- b2 [4] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, portant voyages of discovery Avhich has been made in modern times. One of the greatest difficulties encountered in unravelHng African Geography is the diversity of names that are given to the same Country, Town, Mountain, or River, according as these may have been obtained or collected by different travellers from different natives ; and these again differing according as they are obtained from Negro or Arab Tribes. The different mode of writing and pronouncing the same name even among Europeans is often extremely puzzling. This diversity of names for the same thing is so great and so frequent, that it requires no ordinary patience and stretch of memory to detect them and to hold the particular place steadily in view. Another great difficulty proceeds from the narrator's reversing the bearings of one place from another : putting West for East, and North for South, and so on. Thus he will say, Wara is north-east from Dar Ruma ; where- as it is Dar Ruma that is north-east from Wara. The narrator, who had been at both, placing himself while giv- ing information at Dar Ruma, instead of remembering that he was looking from Wara to Dar Ruma. This kind of mistake is very frequent among Negro and Arab travel- lers and narrators. Thus, where there is no check from an opposite direction or a point more beyond, it is some- times impossible to find out the truth. In like manner great errors are frequently committed with regard to the courses of rivers, the Arabs especially putting the geographical bearing of the bed of the river for the course of the current of the stream. Thus they say of the Nile it goes from Egypt to Abyssinia ; whereas the river comes, as Europeans express it, from Abyssinia to Egypt. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [5] Such mistakes with regard to hearings, as those ahove adverted to, are very frequently committed in European Authors. Thus in Bruce's works, his editor has made the bearings of places bounding each other the reverse of what they really are. For instance, Tigre is stated to be bound- ed on the north-east by Begemder ; whereas it is Begemder that is bounded on the north-east by Tigre. A similar error has been committed with most of the Abyssinian provinces, and these errors have been copied into almost every work that I have seen : Murray's Africa, the Encyclopcedia Bri- tannica, &c. which have copied from Bruce. These errors can, however, be detected with a little care; but not so those where south-east is put for south-west, as is sometimes the case. These require invincible patience and research to miravel. In Mr. Krapf's first journey, he states, that from Dobra Berhan to Tegulet he went east ; whereas it should have been west ; and instead of Lake Zawash emptying itself to the south as he then indicated, we now find that it empties itself into the Hawash, and in an opposite direc- tion. Pages might be filled in pointing out similar errors committed by travellers. In estimating the distance and positions of places from days' journey, the greatest care is necessary to ascertain whether such journeys are performed by single travellers, travelling expeditiously for only two or three days, and for pleasure ; or by a special messenger ; or by the steady reg- ular journey of the mercantile Caravan. The distance gone over by each, if exceeding two or three days, scarcely ever varies, especially of the latter ; and are only lessened or ex- tended according to the nature of the country, moun- tainous, rocky, woody, clear or level, that they may have to traverse. In a journey of two or three days there may [6] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. be some little discrepancy as to the daily distance made good, especially if there is no time given to check it ; but when the journey comes to extend to several days, or for a considerable period of time, it is astonishing with what accuracy the positions of places can be ascertained and determined by this mode of measurement. I have found it not to vary more than 15 miles in 1000, and this when checked by journeys of an equal length to a given place, made from the opposite or from a different direction. Great care has been taken in regard to this matter in con- structing the accompanying maps ; and the results, after being again and again checked, have come out very con- vincing and very satisfactory. With these preliminary remarks we proceed to consider the Journals of the travellers alluded to, and the positions and general features of the countries and districts through which they went. The journey of Mr. Krapf and Mr. Isenberg to Ankobar comes first in order. They landed at Zeilah on the 1st. of April 1839. This is a decayed town, containing only eight stone houses and about one hundred straw huts, together occupied by about 800 inhabitants, mean and poor. Their food consists of maize, dates, milk, and rice, and occasion- ally flesh. The harbour is very bad, having many sand banks, and several small islands near it toward the north. The town is surrounded with walls, and has, on the land side, seven pieces of ordnance, pointed to the country of the Somaulis, with which people dwelling to the south-east and south, the town has a considerable intercourse ; but feuds and jealousies very frequently prevail between them. Zeilah has a good deal of intercourse with the adjoining and interior countries, especially with Hurrur, from which place GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [7] a considerable quantity of fine coffee is brought yearly and shipped to Mocha, from which latter place it subsequently finds its way to the markets of Europe and America. Zeilah was formerly a place of considerable importance and the emporium for the Indian trade with those parts of Africa adjoining, especially when first known to, and occu- pied bv the Turks, at the commencement of the fifteenth century. In the days of Batouta, say 1332, it was, subsequently to the decay of Aussa, the chief town of the kingdom of Adel, and his description of its site was very accurate, and exactly as Mr. Stewart, sent by Mr. Salt to enter Africa from this point, found it to be, and from whose survey the accompanying map regarding it has been drawn up.* The Longitude and Latitude, especially the former, differs considerably in Stew- art's Survey, he placing it in Ho 18' North and 43° 3' East. I have adhered to the position given to it by Captain Harris, considering that as having been taken by a late survey made by the East India Company. When Batouta visited the place, say in 1333, it was in- habited by the Rafiza sect, and belonged to the Berbers, a people from the North of Africa and of the Shafia sect, and their country or the country of Zielah was then stated to reach in extent two months' journey by land to Makdashu. Zeilah is fourteen Caravan stages north-east from Hurrur, and about five orsix days' journey eastof Aussa. From Zeilah the travellers embarked for Tajoura, a small town, the capital of a state of that name, situated to the south-west of Ras Bir, at the entrance of a deep bay extending to the south-west. The existence of this bay, or rather the bays which run from Tajoura in the * Salt, p: 475. [8] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. direction mentioned, and the true position of this small hut important town, were all unknown till they were dis- closed by the Missionaries mentioned. The town is still smaller and poorer than Zielah, containing only about 300 inhabitants ; but it is the nearest point from which to penetrate into the most interesting portions of Abyssinia, and has good anchorage near it, a thing scarcely found on any portion of the East coast of Africa, especially without the Straits of Babelmandeb until the Equinoctial line is passed. The inhabitants of Berbera send to Ta- joura for water, which is found of excellent quality in wells and reservoirs in its vicinity. Tajoura, according to Captain Harris, stands in 11° 46' 35" North Latitude, and in 43° 00' 20" East Longitude, and is built upon a plain at the foot of the mountains, the soil being compo- sed of particles washed down from the hills during the rains. Like all that portion of Africa, it is subject to great heat and drought. To the north and north-west the interior is very mountainous, the hills and ridges rising to a very considerable elevation. The most impor- tant is Mount Debenit, about 35 miles north-west of Tajoura. This mountain is very elevated, and accor- ding to M. Rochet, who visited it, is volcanic and com- posed of primitive rock. There is an extinct crater on its summit. Foxes and Gazelles are numerous, both great and small ; and there is also found a tree from which is extracted a very deadly poison, which the inhabitants use on their arrows. The road from Tajoura to Mount De- benit is exceedingly rugged and steep, and covered with ancient volcanoes, quartz, basalt, &c. From Tajoura, Messrs. Krapf and Isenberg proceeded in about a south-W'Cst by west direction to Ankobar, the GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [0] present capital of Shoa, a state now independent of the empire of Abyssinia. The journey was undertaken in the height of the dry season, and the route is distinctly marked on the map. An Embassy from the East India Company to the King of Shoa, under Captain Harris, and sent in con- sequence of the information which the Missionaries had given, travelled over nearly the same ground in 1841, and also a French traveller M. Rochet, a few months after Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf. The journeys of Har- ris and Rochet were accomplished in the wet season, and consequently the country wore a different aspect. Nu- merous and considerable rivers, which were dry when the Missionaries passed, traversed the country, and flowed to the Hawash or the Lakes. Among these is one named by M. Rochet the Killalou, which runs from south to north-east a distance of forty miles, and falls into the Natron Lake. In the rainy season it is sixty feet broad, and from five to six feet deep. At Goubade there is ano- ther, which runs from east-north-east to north-north-west. The current is rapid, and the breadth 100 metres (250 feet) and depth forty centimetres. There are numerous hot springs in the neighbourhood of Omargalouf, about three leagues east of Lake Aussa, and also in the neigh- bourhood of Killalou. Lake Aussa is of considerable extent, it overflows during the rainy season, and when it recedes leaves a fine deposit, like that which is left by the Egyptian Nile. During the overflow, the superabundant waters run ofli^ into the Natron Lake, about nine miles distant north- east. Mr. Isenberg was told that the waters of Aussa were bitter; but M. Rochet says they are sweet. Aussa, some centuries ago, was the capital of the kingdom of Adel, and a place of great importance ; but it is now much b .5 [10] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. decayed. It lies due west from Karanta, and is situated according to Bruce, on a bank of the river Hawash.* It is the capital of the tribe of Dankali called Mudaites, the most powerful at this time in this portion of Africa. Several Ulemas and other learned Mahomedans yet re- side in the place. It contains from 1400 to 1600 houses, and from 5000 to 6000 inhabitants. The soil is very fer- tile, and supplies Dourah for the consumption of all the adjoining parts of Adel. It was at this place, then called Auxa, not at Zeilah, where the two Portuguese Missionaries, who formed part of the Mission of Jerome Lobo, and who attempted to penetrate into Abyssinia, by landing at Zeilah, were murdered. The Sultan of Tajoura, though of small power, is repre- sented to be a brave man, with a very large family. At some distance from this place, in the interior, Mr. Isenberg was told, that coals, resembling those imported into Aden, were found. AH the country from Tajoura to Ankobar is volcanic, everywhere exhibiting volcanic ridges, ancient volcanoes, and places covered with volcanic remains. This is especially the case to the westward and northward of r^Iulloo. Several of these plains are very fertile, and on the hills and ridges the air is cool and pleasant, the coun- try rising gradually from the sea. The lake of Assal, or the Salt Lake, is of considerable extent ; and the salt taken from it forms a considerable branch of commerce with the countries in the interior, to the south, to the west, and to the north. It is stated to be 570 feet below the level of the sea, and is a few miles distant from the second Bay of Tajoura, called " Ghoobut Ghrah," itself clearly of volcanic origin. Very high ranges of hills bound the horizon to * Vol. iii. p. 347. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [11] the south and south-east of the route laid down. The territory of the Chief of Tajoura begins at Murza Dooan, and extends south to the Salt Lake. Its extent westward is undefined, but it is probably not great. When Isenberg and Krapf crossed the Hawash on the 29th May, near the end of the dry season, they found the stream about sixty feet broad, and from two to four feet deep, with banks from fifteen to twenty feet high. When the Embassy of Captain Harris crossed it in the wet season, and at the same point, they found the stream from forty to fifty yards broad, and from ten to twelve feet deep, the banks covered with fine trees, and the scenery very beautiful. Their encampment near the river was 2223 feet above the level of the sea. M. Rochet, when he crossed the stream, found it from fifty to fifty-five metres broad, and twelve and a half to fourteen deep, its course from the point where the road crosses it, being north, and afterward north-east to Lake Aussa, which lake M. Rochet states is eighty metres, (200 feet) deep. The banks of the river are covered with fine verdure and fine trees. There are abundance of hippopotami in the stream ; and leopards, zebras, tigers, lions, and antelopes are numerous on its banks, which above Lake Aussa are inhabited by the powerful tribe Mudaite or Hassendera already mentioned. In fact, this great tribe stretch north- ward as far as the parallel of Tajoura. Numerous other tribes of Dankali spread over this por- tion of Africa till they come in contact with the Somauli to the south and south-east of Zeilah, and the Galla toward Hurrur, the kingdom of Shoa to the south-west and west, and again the Galla on the west, north-west, and north. The names of the principal of these are mentioned [12] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, by Mr. Iseuberg, and deserve scarcely any other notice. Among the tribes mentioned by Captain Harris, we find the Raheita inhabiting the country close to the deep bays of Tajoura. This tribe, we learn from Bruce,* formed an important portion of the kingdom of Adel, and remained attached to it when stripped of nearly all the rest of its dominions. In the days of its splendour, this tribe extended itself to the neighbourhood of Assab, where we yet find the river of Raheita, from which they probably had their name. From the H awash to Ankobar the country is very beautiful, finely diversified, and watered by numerous streams, tributaries to the Hawash. This district forms part of the kingdom of Shoa, and is comprehended in, or rather forms the district or province of Lower Efat. Ankobar is finely situated on the eastern extremity of Mount Chakka, and is 8198 feet above the level of the sea, and in latitude nine degrees thirty-four minutes thir- ty-three seconds north, and longitude thirty-nine degrees thirty-five minutes east, according to the most recent ac- counts, and which position is a few miles difl'erent from the protraction of Mr. Isenberg's first journey. Mr. Isen- berg and his colleague v;ere enraptured with the climate of Ankobar. On the 4th of June they found the barley ready for the harvest, and the thermometer not more than 40° during the night. "The rich vegetation, the situation in a cool, vernal, or almost autumnal atmosiihere," says Mr. Isenberg, " almost put us in an ecstasy." — " they breathed Alpine air, and drank Alpine water." AngoUalla is 200 feet higher than Ankobar, and the mountains to the south of that place about the sources of the Beresa and the Tshalsha rise to a still greater height. * Vol. iii. p: 347. GEOGRAPHICAL IIEMOIR. [13] Between Kudaite and the mountains of the Alia Galla there is a large plain or valley which, it is said, extends from the Hawash eastward to Berber a. A ridge of hills rising to a considerable height stretches along the east bank of the Hawash. In crossing the plain of little Mul- loo, the grass was found so high as to rise above the head of a man on horseback. To the south-west of this, at some distance, M. Rochet states that there is a volcano in a state of activity. About Alleule, in the territory of the tribe Dolone, there are fine palm trees, from which the natives extract a juice which they manufacture into a spirituous liquor which resembles champagne. Betwixt the moun- tains of Hassendera and the Mudaites, on the north, and the Alia Gallas on the south, there is a large plain, where coffee, citron, and sugar-canes are cultivated ; and where both zebras and elephants are found in considerable numbers. The Dannakil population of this portion of Africa are es- timated at 70,000 souls. Betwixt the Hawash and Fari are several lakes, one of them, the most westerly, of con- siderable magnitude, is called La Adu, or " the far distant water." Westward of Lake Aussa and the lower Hawash, the territory of a Chief named Imam Faris, extends from east to west four days' journey, till it touches upon the Woolla Galla. The Mudaites are the most warlike of all the Dannakil tribes. They are not very intelligent, but have good con- stitutions, and their women are good looking. The inhab- itants of Adel speak a language different from the Arabic, the yEthiopic, the Amharic, or the Galla. Perhaps the ancient Berber Language, stated to be an original language, or of great antiquity. They say that their ancestors came [14] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. originally from Arabia and Asia. Of the Dannakils, Mr. Isenberg says : — " A chief occupation of the Dannakils, particularly the women, especially when they travel, is the plaiting of mats and baskets, for salt and corn, from the branches of the palm-tree. The women are the most industrious. Thev dress very slovenly, and frequently wear nothing but a piece of cloth, of a grey, blue, or variegated colours, tied round their hips, and reaching down to the knees, sometimes bound round with a fancifully-wrought leathern belt. Not- withstanding, they are vain, and fond of wearing bracelets and foot ornaments, ear and nose -rings, coral strings on their necks, &c." These journeys made from Tajourahave in the first place rectified the geography regarding the course of the Hawash; and before proceeding farther, it may be advisable to rec- tify the geography of this portion of Africa, in which such great and unnecessary errors have been committed and so long continued. This the journeys under consideration, and an attentive perusal of the information which Bruce received about them, enables us very clearly to do. The constructor of Bruce's map, and his own narrative in seve- ral places, has made perfect havoc among them. An atten- tive perusal of his portions of Abyssinian History, affords the safest and a tolerably clear guide to determine the positions of these countries and provinces with a sufficient degree of accuracy. The advance and retreat of the con- tending armies traces the provinces with great clearness ; and had the narratives regarding these been more closely at- tended to, or attended to at all, most of the errors which have crept into the geography of this portion of Afi-ica, would never have been committed, or else long ago cleared up. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [^5] Commencing with the kingdom of Dankali will tend to make the delineation more satisfactory and clear. Dan- kali is that portion of the country which stretches from the Red Sea on to the north-east ridge of the chain of mountains that divides the waters which flow westward through Abyssinia, from those small streams which descend from the east side of these mountains to the Red Sea. On the east, and at Assab, it is bounded by part of the king- dom of Adel and the Myrrh country, and on the south by a desert part of the province of Do waro.* It is in general low, sandy, and dry. Two small rivers run in the country, descending from the highlands of Abyssinia to the Red Sea, but only conspicuous during the rains. t This country is inhabited by various Arab tribes, known under the general name of Dankali, their territory stretching north to the neighbourhood of Arkeeko. Some centuries ago it was a rich country ; but now it is become very poor. It has, besides the anchorage on the Bay of Assab, another port called Bilur or Biloul, at which place (see map) Jerome Lobo landed on his mission to Abyssinia. It was then governed by a king, whose capital or camp he found about ten miles distant on a small river at the foot of a mountain, consisting of six tents and twenty cabins plant- ed amongst thorns and wild trees. Goats and honey were the chief products of the country. After travelling for many days, but chiefly by night, through a country almost destitute of water, it being then (June) the dry season, and abounding with serpents, pursuing a northerly course, they came to the bed of a river then dry, but water was to be found in pools. During the rains, a very large river descends in this bed, and it is that which enters the sea, in * Bruce, vol. iii. p. 113. ^ Ibid. [16] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. the Bay of Bure. After a march of some days along or by the bed of the river, they came to an opening in the mountain which is the only pass between the Dankali and Abyssinia, and through which they passed, when they im- mediately came to a fine country abounding with springs and streams, trees and verdure. They next crossed the salt plain, and after a journey of six or seven days they came to Fremona.* The salt plain is surrounded with very high mountains; it was crossed in one night's march. On the confines of Dankali and Abyssinia, there is a mix- ed race of Christians and Mahomedans called Taltal. f This is the name of a people and not of a place. The people of Dankali are sometimes called Ghibertis, which means people who are firm in the faith. Dankali is also sometimes called Samhar, which word is in fact used to designate all the sea coast both within and without the Straits of Babelmandeb. An got comes next in order. This was once an impor- tant and celebrated Province of Abyssinia when that coun- try was in the zenith of its power ; but it is now much circumscribed and reduced, having been overrun and de- solated by the Bestuma Galla under Guangoul. It is bounded east by the Taltal population, belonging to the state of Dankali, and the Dobas, a nation of Shepherds in- habiting the mountainous parts of the country to the south-west of Dankali, once Pagans, but afterward Ma- homedans. On the south and south-east, Angot is bounded by the Province of Dowaro ; on the west by Amharai and on the north-west by that part of Begemder called Lasta, and on the north-east by part of Tigre. This province formerly extended both to the north and * Lobo's Voyages, Purclias' Collection. f Bruce, vol. iii, p. 113, GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [17] the south of the dividing range of mountains and to the south-west as far as Lake Haik. This was its boundary when Alvaraez visited it ; but now, according to Mr. Krapf, all the portion situated to the south-west of the dividing range is separated from it, and belongs to the province of Geshen or Yeshen ; Angot proper in its south-west ex- tremity commencing at the point of the high lands, north of the River Ala, and where the road separates to go north-west to Lalibala, and north-east to Sokota. This province was once the place of the Royal residence, and was adorned with many fine churches, whicli have been dilapidated and destroyed by the Mahomedan and Galla conquerors. Angot is very elevated and very mountainous, abounding with springs, rivulets, and small rivers. The soil in the valleys is good and productive — cultivation and harvest go on together throughout the year. The coun- try has large flocks of sheep and herds of very fine cattle. Alvaraez says he met with some of the finest wheat in Angot that he ever saw in any country. The climate in the valleys is delicious ; but on the mountains it is exceed- ingly cold. Pearce in the month of October, found hoar- frost in the morning, on the summits of some, to the south of Lake Assanghe ; and where Mr. Krapf crossed the di- viding range, he estimated the height at 1 0,000 feet, the air keen and cold in March, and the country bleak and barren, with the scanty vegetation of extreme northern regions. The river Sabalette, according to Alvaraez, then separated Tigre from Angot, the capital of which was called Angeteraz, situated on a dry river, which shews that its course was short from the mountains, the dry sea- son having tlien just begun. At the river Aucona, described by Alvaraez as a con- [18] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. siderable river, commences the province or district of Bug- na or Bugana, the Portuguese name for Lasta. It is extremely mountainous, six days' journey from east to west, and three from north to south, the climate cold. It produces hemp, fine wheat, and abundance of cattle. This account given by Alvaraez is confirmed by Mr. Krapf and others in every respect. In continuing his route south west, Alvaraez describes the road as dreadful, " crawling" over stupendous ridges and traversing deep valleys, hill after hill, and valley after valley, exactly as Mr. Krapf and others found in parts immediately adjoining. The Dobas were in the days of Alvaraez Mahomedans, and their country, which was divided into twenty four captaincies, frequently at war with each other, extended from the borders of Angot fifteen days' journey to the Sea. The language of Angot began at Defarfo, which town was called Angotina. Near it, Alvai-aez saw 50,000 oxen, besides wheat. Angot produces barley, millet, beans, &c. A district of Bugana or Lasta, was known in the days of Alvaraez (1520) under the name of Acate, most probably the modern Sokota, in which were many fine churches, and the country produced fine wheat. Bruce states, that Bu- gana Bugna, or Lasta, may be said to belong to Angot ; but he just reverses its position, making it to the east of Angot. The name Corcora has given rise to great confusion in the Geography of this portion of Africa. There are two places of that name, one Corcora, a river to the north-east of Antalow ; and the other Corcora of Angot, a place six miles to the east of the river Sabalette. By not attend- ing to this distinction, much confusion has been created, and one error led to another. * Vol. iii. p. 7. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [19] The positions of these places are also well established by the following references. According to Bruce,* Ginna- mora was a small district of Abyssinia or Tireg bordering on the Dobas, and the people of which King David ap- pointed to subdue the latter. Another proof of their posi- tions in the south of Abyssinia is found in Bruce,f where he speaks of the savage people called Azeba, who dwell at Azab, and of their neighbours the Doha, more savage than they. King Yabous of Abyssinia, who went to sub- due both, marched straight from Enderta to the low coun- try about Azub ; and from thence, turning .to the right upon the Dobas, he successively invaded, desolated, and conquered both ; and having done so, returned to Enderta. Next in order comes the Province of Dowaro, the true position of which has been still less attended to. This neglect has produced most serious errors in the Geography of this once important portion of Africa. Dowaro was next to Angot on the south-east. It was bounded on the north by part of the Kingdom of Dankali ; it was sepa- rated from Angot and Dankali by the river Hawash, and bordered to the south upon Adel. The capital of Adel was not far from the capital of Dowaro, called Gaza. West of Dowaro was Gedem, a hilly country. Dowaro was the most eastern portion of Abyssinia, and bounded by the 44th degree of East Longitude,:!: Through this province, the Abyssinian armies from Angot, Tigre &c. penetrated into Adel. On the banks of a river called Wole, the Abys- sinian emperor, Amda Sion, fought a most decisive battle with the sovereign of Adel. He passed the Wole, and cut them off from Adel ; and the host of the latter attempt- ing to retreat by passing the river lower down, were at- * Vol. iii. p. 173. + Vol. iv. p. 13G. ^ Bruce, vol. iii. pp. 2, 7, ")7. [20] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. tacked by the Abyssinians then on the right bank, and either slaughtered, or driven into the river at that point of considerable depth. This river Wole of Bruce, is doubt- less the river Ala mentioned by Mr. Krapf fSee Map. J Adjoining Dowaro, was the kingdom of Adel, and the particular province of that name. Adel or Adaial, was a general name given to the whole Mahomedam popula- tion of the eastern Horn of Africa. In the early periods of their history, it was specially confined to the country extendingfrom the Straits of Babelraandeb to the confines of Berbera on the sea coast and limits of the Abyssinian Empire inland ; but when this kingdom of Adel proper was almost annihilated by the conquests of Amda Sion, be- tween 1312 and 1342, the Mahomedans fled to the southward, and the states subsequently composing their Empire went under the name of Adel, and which extend- ed south to Magadosho and east to Cape Guardafui until overwhelmed and broken by the Somauli and Galla. But besides the general Empire of Adel, there was a particular portion of it which went by that name. The kingdoms of Adel and Mara, extended, we are told by Bruce, to the shores of the Sea.* Mara is called the desert Kingdom of Mara,t and of which Zeilah seems to have been the port and at one time the capital. Adel was bounded by the Dankali on the north, and extended to Assab. To the north and north- west was Dowaro ; to the east the Sea from Assab to the bays of Tajoura ; and to the south and east Mara.f The capital was Aussa, situated on a rock by the side of the river Hawash, and not far from the Lake of that name. On the west and south-west, Adel was bounded by the Empire of Abyssinia, in that portion of it which is now * Vol. iii. p. 50. t Ibid p. 71. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [21] known under the name of the kingdom of Shoa. Aussa during the height of the power of Adel, was a place of considerable impoitance. The position of the province of Adel is also well marked by the fact, that before one of his struggles with the Sovereign of Abyssinia and when that Prince was about to attack first the Dobas, the King of Adel advised them to send their wdves and children into Adel for safety, which twelve clans of them accordinglv did ; while the King of Abyssinia made his subjects of Wadje (W''aag) and Ganz cultivate the grounds which they had left.* Mara. This province was bounded by Adel on the north and north-west, by the sea on the east, and by the Hawash, Gan and Bali and the State of Harrar on the west, south- west, south, and by some petty states to the south of Zei- lah on the south-east. It was comparatively a dry country, as we find all that country from the Hawash to Zeilali now is ; but it was in former days powerful and rich, the commerce from India to the Persian Gulf and Abyssinia, and other parts of Africa adjacent, passing through it. The capital of Hadea (Hurrur) was situated to the south- ward and south-westward of Mara ; Wogla, and Pagama, small principalities dependent upon Adel, being upon the sea-coast. f The centre of Mara was approached from Do- waro, and from Dowaro the King of Abyssinia crossed the Hawash, in order to enter " the desert kingdom of Mara.":t That the kingdom of Mara is also applied to all or a portion of the kingdom of Adel near the sea is, I think, ob- vious, from the account of the King of Abyssinia in one of his excursions passing the great river Yass, which river is stated to be in the kingdom of Mara. Advancing beyond, * Bruce, vol. iii. p. 115. f lb. p. 47. ^ lb. p. GO", dc. [22] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. he came to the strong fortress of Dassi, where there was no water, except what was found by digging in the earth and sand.* Now Yasso or Yass must be the river which is formed by the united streams of the Ala, the Ancona, and Sabalette, called also Hanazo ; for except the Hawash, there is no other river in these quarters which deserves the name of great, f Salt says expressly, that the river Yass was to the north of Zeilah. Being in the rainy season, however, when the king entered this country, it may have been the river mentioned by M. Rochet as rising in Killalou. When joined by its tributaries to the north, it would at that season be a large stream. The inhabitants of Aussa and Adel are tawny, not black, and have long hair. They are some- times called Ghiberties, which means, strong in the faith. The country around the Hawash, and in the valleys, is called Kolla, or Khulla, the low country, to distinguish it from the high mountainous districts of Abyssinia and Shoa. It is very fertile, but hot, and in the rainy season sickly. The name is applied generally throughout Africa, to desig- nate the low from the mountainous districts. Beyond the Kolla, or low country mentioned, is the country named Sam- har, which is a general word used to designate the sea- coast in a country dry and barren. Having thus, it is humbly conceived, rectified the geo- graphical positions of these and more important provinces of Mahomedan dominion in Eastern Africa, the positions of other places deserve less notice, and only require to be enumerated to be seen and understood on the maps. Adjoining to and south-eastward of Efat is the district of Gan, and adjoining and eastward of it again is Bali, a small kingdom, through which the Gallas first rushed into * Bruce, vol. iii. p. 48. t Salt, p. 102. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [23] Abyssinia in 1559, Bali is west south-west of Zeilah, and south-west of Mocawa. Fattigar, * once a considerable province, lies to the southward and south-westward of Gan and Bali of the ancient Mahomedans. The capital is called Bulga, a name which is sometimes given to the whole pro\'ince. To the eastward and southward of these last named provinces or districts, lies Hadea, called also Har- rar, or in the Abyssinian mode of pronounciation, Harraye, after the capital, called also Harrar. This place was once the seat of a great Mahomedan state, and the centre of their power in this portion of Africa, after the kingdom of A del was overthrown. In the days of Alvaraez the territory of Hadea stretched to Magadoxa. To the west of Hadea, he states, was Gan, and south-west from it Gurague. In this kingdom was a great lake so broad, that one side could not be seenfi-om the other.* This must be the Souie or Zawaja, which is stated by late travellers to be very large and broad. The country around it is very fine, but sickly. Mahommed, surnamed Gragne, or left handed, ruled this country about the year 1525 ; and soon after Alvaraez left Abyssinia, he invaded, and during the reign of that unfor- tunate prince, David, overran and almost ruined the whole of Abvssinia. He was at length conquered and killed by the aid of some Portuguese troops, Abyssinia delivered, and Hadea, like other states in this portion of Africa, over- whelmed by the Gallas. According to Bruce,! Hadea was a large town with five gates, and then the capital of Adel, Aussa being then de- pendent upon it. Ninety-nine villages paid tribute to it, and its Chief was constantly engaged in war with the Abyssinians and the Galla. It is still a place of some impor- * Rochet, p. lOG. t Vol. vii. pp. 91,92. [24] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. tance, and carries on a considerable traffic with Berbera and Zeilah. The distance to Berbera is twenty journeys, to Ankobar seventeen, and to Zeilah, according to Harris, fourteen. Bruce and Alvaraez state the latter distance to be eight days' journey ; but this may be the distance when travelled by a special messenger. From Aussa to Harrar the distance given by Bruce was seven days of a messen- ger, and Harris gives it the same. According to the ac- counts received by Harris, Harrar exports to Zeilah and Berbera yearly 2000 bales of coffee, besides wheat. The population is agricultural, use the Arabic language, and are subject to the Essa Somauli. Their language has an affin- ity to the Amharic. The climate is warmer than that of Shoa. From Errur to Harrar the road is stony, but suffi- ciently level to admit the transport of guns or carriages. The walls of the town are twelve feet high, three feet thick, and two hours' travel in circumference. It is situated in a verdant valley, and is well supplied with water from springs in the neighbourhood. The country to the southward is mountainous, but fertile and fine, even southward toward Magadoxo. So Alvaraez relates on the authority of a king of Abyssinia, who, during his residence at that court, went with an array to restore the authority of the queen, who had been threatened with expulsion from the throne by some of her warlike neighbours. The king defeated them, pursued them southward a great distance, adding, that he might have marched to Magadoxo. Regarding the rivers in this portion of Africa, our ac- counts are imperfect. When the King of Abyssinia had conquered Zeilah, he marched southward, subduing the different small states, and, in the early part of his route, passed the great river Acco. This is most probably the GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [25] Wochane of modern maps. Salt says that it was at no great distance from Zeilah, in an opposite direction from the Yass, which is to the north. The king next crossed the great river Zorat, wliich is an early branch of the river that enters the sea, not far from Magadoxo. The Zorat is in the country of a people then called Oritii. Salt says, * that the extent of the King of Abyssinia's conquests in this country, was about 200 miles south-west of Zeilah. This river, which enters the sea near Magadoxo, according to accounts received by the Embassy of Captain Harris, f enters the sea in latitude 2° north, and among other names which it has, is also called Bargama. This enables us to trace the early sources of its principal stream in the coun- try of Bargama, or Bahar-Gama, as Bruce also calls it. + From Hurrur or Harar westward, the different states, so far as they are correctly known to us, are laid down in their order, and as near their proper positions (see map) as the in- formation hitherto received will enable us. Some of them will require to be more particularly alluded to hereafter. Of the magnitude, power, and population of all the states and provinces which composed the kingdom of Adel in its best davs, we may judge from the fact mentioned in Abys- sinian history, as recorded by Bruce, § that when their existence as a people was at stake, on the advance of Amda Zion against them, they could only bring into the field under their sixteen chiefs or leaders 44,000 men. After all Arabia had embraced the Religion of Mahom- raed, her roving sons quickly found their way into Africa, which they first entered across the Straits of Babelmandcb. They soon spread themselves along the shores of the Red Sea within and without the Straits. For a time ♦ p. 102. t Bombay Times, July, 1842. :: Vol. iii. p. 7. § lb. p. 71- c [26] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. they were subject to Abyssinia, then a powerful state ; but they gradually assumed an independent and aggressive attitude. Commanding the external trade of this portion of Africa with all the Eastern world, they became rich and powerful, and from the spirit of their Religion, were mak- ing continual inroads into the Abyssinian territories. This provoked Amda Zion, who, in the early part of the 1 3th century, nearly — as has been already stated — destroyed them, and completely annihilated the kingdom of Adel. On the decline of their power, the Arabs were succeeded by the Turks, who spread themselves in these parts, and by the assistance of artillery and the new mode of warfare which it occasioned, again recruited the Mahomedan power in this part of Africa. During the reign of the unfortunate Abyssinian Prince David, 1525 to 1540, the Mahomedans overran and desolated the whole of Abyssinia, till they were overthrown by the assistance of the Portuguese ; and subse- quently the conquerors and the conquered, especially the latter, were overpowered by the barbarous Gallas. This savage people completely destroyed the Mahomedan power throughout the whole Eastern Horn of Africa, and the once great Abyssinian Empire has been shockingly mutilated and curtailed of its territories by them. But to return to the journeys of the travellers imme- diately under consideration. Between Ankobar and Angol- lala, a favourite residence of the King, Mr. Isenberg and his companion met Sahela Salassieh, the King of Shoa, the Christian sovereign of a Christian people. By him they were cordially received and welcomed to Shoa, and under the protection of such a Sovereign, great is the good that such worthy men may do in Africa. The King of Shoa is despotic. Person and property are alike at his GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [27] disposal throughout his dominions. The Christianity of Shoa is the tenets of the Alexandrian Greek Church, but sadly debased and corrupted from its original purity. Still, amidst the darkness which has overspread the land, several of the most important and fundamental truths of the Gospel are known, acknowledged, and understood, though greatly disregarded. Greatly corrupted and debased, however, as it is, still, considering every circumstance, the revolutions and desolation which have come upon them, and with which they have been visited during a period of many centuries, it is surprising to find matters, as regards the Christian Rehgion in those remote pai'ts of Africa, in the state that they are. These place before us the invinci- ble proof, by the fact witnessed in Africa, as it has before time been witnessed and established in both Europe and Asia, that Christianity once planted in any country can never be eradicated ; and that, though for a time it may, from the transgressions of professors thereof, be subjected to severe misfortunes, and severe chastisements, yet it will finally raise itself above the ruins of ages and of Empires, and in the beauty of holiness, rise superior to all its ene- mies, and go on conquering and to conquer. The journals of Messrs. Krapf and Isenberg will suffici- ently explain to the reader their reception and their pros- pects in Shoa, the state of Religion, and the manners and the morals of the people of that kingdom, as also those of some of the neighbouring people. Leaving this, we proceed to the geographical narrative. On the 28th January 1840, Mr. Krapf (Mr. Isenberg having previously returned to England) accompanied the King of Shoa with a considerable army on a hostile expe- dition to the westward, in order to punish some of his C 2 [28] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. refractory Galla subjects. M. Rochet, the French gentle- man already alluded to, accompanied them. The army marched in about a true west-south-west direction in the route as laid down on the map. They first crossed the river Tshalsha, then the Belat, then the Sana Robi, then the RosetaandDekama, the head streams of the Ziega Wodiam, and next the Robi, the parent stream of the great Indores. Some other smaller streams wei'e passed in the route, all bending their courses to the Djimma. The country as they advanced from Angollala became more beautiful and fruitful, every hill and valley being, it may be said, inha- bited by a distinct Galla tribe. Their names are particu- larly enumerated by Mr. Krapf. The huts and villages of these people are of the rudest and simplest kind ; and in the perpetual feuds that ensue, from their refusal to pay the tributes exacted, these are generally swept away by fire, but are soon again erected. From a high mountain, one of the Wogidi range, to the north of the encampment by the Robi, they saw the mountains of Gojam and the Blue River or Abawi, winding along among them. The march was continued from the Robi still further west south- west, till their last camp was fixed within a few miles of the soui'ces of the Hawash, proceeding from a small lake with high mountains to the south and south-west. At this point they were only one day's (Shoa) journey from the Abawi, or about twenty-five miles, which shews that the Nile goes a little further south, about twenty miles, than it has hitherto been laid down on the best maps. From the point mentioned, the army marched east south- east, at about a day's journey from the Hawash, running along the valley on their right : one day's journey beyond it was the first village of Gurague, the high hills of which GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [29] were distinctly visible in the south-east. In their route they passed to the south of the high mountain of Indotto, the source of the River Robi, and famous in Abyssinian history as the residence and place of interment of some of their kings. From the extreme south-east point on their route, as marked in the map, the army returned in a north- east direction over the high lands to Angollala, leaving Fattigar on the right. Beyond Indotto they passed some hot springs. Fattigar in the days of Alvaraez was ac- counted the extreme south-west point of the kingdom of Adel. It is, he said, a low Champagne country, that is, composed of low hills, well cultivated, and abounding with cattle, sheep, goats, oxen, mares, and mules. Mount Indotto was covered with trees, and numerous rivulets pour down from its steep sides : on its summit is a considerable lake. Such are the accounts which Alvaraez gives of these places when he visited them, and the accounts received by Mr. Krapf are nearly to the same effect. The Hawash near its source meanders eastward through the plain, being there about eight feet deep, and twenty-five broad. It separates the provinces of Souaie, Gurague, and the Sedda Gallas from the Meta Vochia Gallas, Belcheo Au- rippe, and part of the Province of Zamietta. The mountains of Zamietta are covered with beautiful cedars. Mr. Krapf enumerates the different Galla tribes from the sources of the Hawash to Gooderoo, which place it is plain is at no great distance. The village of Rogie is a famous market for slaves, brought from the countries of Gingiro, Gurague, Enarea, and other places. The price of a slave is five Talari. According to Bruce * Gumar is south-west of Fattigar, and east of Bahar Gama. But this is different from the * Xo]. iii. p. 7. [30] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. position hitherto given in the best maps. The capital of Gingiro is seven days' journey due east from Sakka, the chief market of Enarea. Cambat is eight days' journey due east from Gingiro, the road to Gingiro crossing the Zebee one day's journey from the capital, and the road to Cambat crosses the Zebee, two days' journey from Gingiro. This latter place was once a powerful state, having four- teen states subject to it ; but it is now much reduced. The capital of Cambat is called Sangara. According to Bruce, Gurague was ten days' journey distant from Cambat, and on the left hand going eastward. Gingiro was re- ported to Mr. Krapf to be only eight days' journey from Gurague. North of Gingiro is the country of Mugar or Magar, a powerful and populous country inhabited by Christians, and next to Enarea on the east. It is the same as Sidama, a name generally applied in these parts to designate a distinct inhabited by Christians. The Aroosse Gallas are east of Gurague, and so also is the Sierme and Luban. AUaba is a kingdom on the road from Cambat to Bali. South-west by west of Zeilah is a country called Ogge, inhabited by Christians. South of Gurague is a Galla tribe called Damo, dwelling around the River Wiser. There are a great many Christians in Gurague, and many monasteries. Much coffee, wine, and fine honey are pro- duced in Gurague ; and coffee is also abundant in the countries around the sources of the Hawash, and in fact it is found plentiful in all the countries from the Nile southward to Enarea and Caffa inclusive. It grows wild in all these places. A great many of the Gallas have since their invasion of Abyssinia been converted to Christianity, and make better Christians than either the population of Shoa or GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [31] Abyssinia. In general they dislike the Christian Religion, because, they say, that the people of Shoa, who profess it, are no better than themselves. The great body of them cling to the religion of their forefathers, which is pure and simple Paganism. Among them are no Ministers of Religion of any description. They worship a superior being under the name of Waake, the Ouack of Ouare, the Galla lately brought to France. They pay adoration to the Moon, and also to certain Stars, and in every tribe they worship the Wanzey tree, under which their Kings are crowned. Some of them to the south have been converted to the Mahom- medan faith. The Pagan Gallas have limited ideas of future punishment ; their marriages are extremely simple, and they have a great affection for their children. Circumci- sion is known and practised among them. It is also remarkable, that " when an elder brother dies, leaving younger brothers behind him, and a widow young enough to bear children, the younger brother of all is obliged to marry her ; but the children of the marriage are always accounted as if they were the elder brother's ; nor does the marriage of the younger brother to the widow entitle him to any part of the deceased's fortune." * They are all extremely filthy in their habits, anointing their heads and bodies with melted butter or grease. They are generally of a brown complexion and well formed ; many of them are very fair and almost white, arising probably from the great elevation of the country from whence they origi- nally came. Although they have little or no idea of future punishment, yet " all of them believe, that after dcatli they are to live again ; that they arc to rise with their bodies as they were on earth, to enter into another life, * Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 247. [32] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. they know not where, but they are to be in a state of body infinitely more perfect than the present, and are to die no more, nor suffer grief, sickness, or trouble of any kind." In 1841 Mr. Krapf, accompanied by Dr. Beke, now engaged in endeavouring to penetrate into the interior of Africa from Shoa westward, went on an excursion to the northward. They reached Kok Fara, a place about forty geographical miles north of Ankobar, and two days' journey south of the Berkona. In their route northwards they passed the sources of the Rivers Awiddi, Robi, and others, which flow into the H awash ; and on their return, thev crossed on their immediate sources a few of the rivers which join to form various rivers that flow to fill the River Djimma, a considerable branch of the Nile, or Abawi. The province of Gheddem or Gedem lay to the east and south-east of Kok Fara, and in the latter direc- tion there is a wilderness much frequented by elephants. The country throughout their short route was rugged and mountainous in the extreme, — abrupt hills, deep valleys, and numerous rivulets and small rivers (see map) at every step. Ephrata, one day's journey north of Rok Fara, is the last town in that direction belonging to the kingdom of Shoa. The country beyond is under the dominion of Bora, the ruler of Argobba. On a bearing of North 38° west from the valley of Wock Washa, is a lake called Ali Baks- cour, which is of volcanic origin. The next journey which requires to be noticed here, is that performed by Dr. Beke from AngoUala westward, across the Abawi or Nile to Dima in Gojam, where the last accounts left that traveller. This journey was under- taken in the autumn of 1841. Dr. Beke left Angollala * Bruce, Vol. iii. p. 244. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [33] on the ninth of October. He pursued the route as laid down in the map through a country exceedingly picturesque and interesting. Tlie rivers ran in deep valleys with steep hills on either sides as their banks. The Bersena, Tshalsha, and Chakka join, and form the Adebai. The strong town and position of Dey is from six hundred to seven hundred feet below Angollala, and situated at the junction of the Adebai and Bersena. The continuation of the plateau of Shoa is seven thousand eight hundred and eighty- seven feet above the level of the sea. Several stupendous cataracts are foimd in the rivers near Angolalla and Tegulet. The road was westerly, always descending, and the scenery very beautiful. Where he crossed the Bersena the bed of the river was one hundred feet broad; but the stream in it then only twenty feet broad, the dry season having commenced. The district south of the Bersena is called Enzarro. Tobacco, cotton, maize, &c., were cultivated around the rivers. Enzarro is populous and fertile. In the route westward, he passed rivulets, Kersa and Bon, which, united, flow north-west to the Djimma. Soon after this he came to the Ziega Wodiam, running rapidly through deep valleys or dales to the Djimma. On each side were rocky bluffs. The bed of the river was about two hundred feet broad ; but the breadth of the stream then only twenty feet, and eighteen inches deep. The bottom was sand. The mountains are precipitous, and run in ridges from south to north on the south side of the Djimma, and from north to south on the north side of that river, the rivers running in deep valleys between them. On the left was the deep and fine valley of the Ziega Wodiam, and that of Sofa to the right. The cele- brated raonasterv of Dobra Libanos is about eight miles 34] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. south-east from Ancorcha. It was at that place that Alvaraez with the Portuguese Embassy reached the court of David, King of Abyssinia. The vicinity of Angorcha is mountainous and barren. Gold has been found near Dobra or Debra Libanos. Proceeding westward, Dr. Beke crossed the River Sofa and the valley through which it runs, extending in a south- west direction, after which he came to high table land, which extends from the Abawi to Ankobar. He reached Gera, the political seat of Abba Wial, the Governor of the district, who prefers to reside at Wogidi. This place stood in a plain on a mountain, from the Chief's house in which there was a fine view of the Djimma and a most dehghtful prospect of the country as far as the Abawi or Nile, and beyond it the mountains of Gojam. After leaving Wogidi, he crossed the large stream called Sielrae, the general name for the Galla tribes in the neighbourhood; the stream running rapidly over stones to the Djimma ; the water from fifteen to twenty feet broad, but the bed three times that breadth. The road ran through a beautiful plain to Lalissa : the country between it and Sielme is studded with villages. Pursuing their route westward, they crossed the torrent Hidalli, then little Indores River, and next Great Indores (the source of which to the south is the Robi), the stream running between steep banks, then ten feet broad. From the great Indores, the ride was through a lovely rich country to the village Adda ; after which the road becomes rough and rugged to Abaddo, the residence of the Galla Chief Gianche. Beyond Abaddo, three hours through jungle, and down a steep mountain principally on foot, the River Djimma, not Jumma, was reached. The mountains on both sides dip into the stream, here twenty- GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [35] five to thirty yards broad, with a beach on each side of equal extent, and the depth three feet, with a rapid cur- rent in the middle. Crossing the river they pursued their way, in some places through rich meadows, to Sala- kuUa, a village composed of reed huts, and built upon an elevated projection of the mountain, lining the valley of the Abawi, and the residence of the Chief Maria, the son of Sabasa, who appeared to be as poor as any of his miserable subjects, Salakulla is 10^ 2' 8" North Latitude. After some wrangling with this Chief, Dr Beke pro- ceeded to the Abawi, a few miles distant, passing the villages of Sakka and Felop. The stream descended from the north-north-west, amidst steep banks descending in terraces. Dr. Beke considered the river as fordable ; but his guides would not hear of passing it in any other way than that to which they were accustomed, namely, on inflated skins, by which means the travellers' baggage was all wetted and much injured, and subsequently in drying it, a considerable portion of it was stolen. He crossed the stream at a bend where it comes from east-north-east. The breadth then was two hundred yards, the current on the east side two miles, and on the west side three miles per hour— so rapid as to render it difficult to reach that side. A mule was carried down and nearly drowned. This passage was effected at no very great distance above the junction of the Djimma. The elevation of the bed of the Nile, Dr. Beke calculated to be three thousand feet above the level of the sea ; but which does not agree with the height of its sources, or the elevation of the Tlain of Scnaar as given by Bruce, of which more hereafter. From the banks of the Abawi, Dr. Beke went on to Diraa in Cojam, commonly known under the name of Diraa [36] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. Georges, from a monastery and church dedicated to St. George, which stands in that place. It is a considerable place, speaking comparatively as regards other towns and villages in this quarter. It stands in 10" 22' North Lati- tude. The town is surrounded with stone walls, and there are also several houses in it built of stone. In his way to Dima, Dr. Beke passed the villages of Shebal, Kas- ham, and Arisetot, the former of which divides the Christian from the Galla ; then the town Bichana, a considerable place, at which a regular market is held. Before reach- ing Dima, the River Gad is crossed just above a point where it falls over a precipice several hundred feet high. Owing to the great height of the fall, the river in the dry season descends in complete spray ; but during the rains the sight must be magnificent. The country from Shebal to Dima was generally undulating and a fine grassy plain. From Dima, Dr. Beke intended to proceed to Goutta, at the sources of the Nile, and thence, by the assistance of the Chief of that place, whom he met at Dima, and then about to be restored to his authority, to proceed to Bure and Basso, in order to prosecute his journey into the interior. In the spring of 1842, Mr. Krapf resolved to leave Ankobar, and proceed to Egypt on business, with the inten- tion of returning again to Shoa ; and he resolved to proceed by Gondar and Massowah. He accordingly left Ankobar on the 10th of March, and proceeding to AngoUala ob- tained from the king permission to depart on his intended journey. From Angollala he proceeded to Dobra Berhan, or "hill of light," a favourite residence of the kings, the country in the distance being level, with small hills and plains. The river Beresa runs south of the village, the GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [37] banks high and wooded, with several high cataracts in its bed. 3Ir. Krapf's route is distinctly marked on the map, until he reached about half way between the Bachilo and Daunt, where he was forced to turn back and proceed southward to Gatera, from which place he travelled east- ward to Lake Haik, resolving to take the road to Mas- sowah by Antalow. To his journal the reader is referred for every thing particular that occurred on the road ; the various rivers and places that he passed are all distinctly laid dowTi. The country everywhere was mountainous and rugged, the hills precipitous, and the rapid rivers and rivulets flowing over cataracts through deep valleys, the descent to some of which was, in a very short distance, 3000 feet. The ridges run in the direction of north north- east to south south-west, and Mr. Krapf distinctly states, that all the streams which flow westward from the dividing range are absorbed in the Djimma and the Bachilo. This is curious and important. It shows that the high land of the mountains of Amid extends across the Abawi to the culminating points in Woora Galla ; and hence the district of Walaka is elevated, but wet and marshy, and conse- quently sickly, as it is stated to be ; and that no river of any importance flows, or can flow through it westward to the Nile. The country in several places is fertile and well cultivated, but much distracted and injured by wars and strifes between the difterent petty tribes and rulers, who set the authority of the sovereign of Abyssinia on the one hand, and the King of Shoa on the other, equally at defi- ance, i^fter crossing the river Gonagonit, came to a tre- mendous chasm, three feet wide and 200 feet long ; but of unknown and enormous depth. It is called Tegulet Wat, or "the devouring depth of Tegulet." At Zalla Dengai [38] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. the cold was great. The river Mofer separates Shoa from Mans. This stream receives many tributaries. It rises in Mount Tamabar and flows to the Djimma. The chmate of Mans is very cold, which shows its great elevation. Sheep in Mans have long black wool. The soil is black, and pro- duces wheat, barley, peas, beans, hogs and sheep in abun- dance. The river Xetmat where crossed, was then only fourteen feet broad. The district of Sala is bounded north by the river Aflamat, and east by Gheddem. West of the route was a large deep basin, into which the rivers Igam, Aflamat, and others join, and afterward form the Knowa under the general name of Gherid, and which joins the Djimma, near Koom Dangai in Shoa Meda. In his route hence, Mr. Krapf crossed the river Shai, which goes through the famous Lake Alebai on the west of Mans, after leaving which the river is called Shammas, and joins the Djimma. This lake is a day's journey in circumference. The tradition is, that it was formed by a destruction or visitation similar to that which destroyed Sodom and Gom- morrah. This is the lake, most probably, which is alluded to by Dr. Beke and Mr. Krapf as bearing north 38° west from the valley of Woch Washa. About the river Ghe- doot the country is volcanic, large rocks thrown down lay all around, and at Tagabile, seen at a distance, mineral waters were found. The river Kachenu was twenty-five feet broad, but the banks separate eighty feet. It is joined below by the rivers Katame and Woia, which come from the north of Shoa. The junction takes place in the north- west, at Dair, a frontier town and seat of the governor of the frontiers. The river Woia separates Woolla Galla from Shoa. The mountains in Woolla Galla are sometimes plain and level. The highest in this country are Sako, on which GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [39] hailisfrequently seen, and Korhora and Yelt. Gaterais the capital of Woolla Gall a, ruled by Adara Bille ; and east of his territory is Worra Galla, under the ruler Beroo Soobo. The mountainous range to the east are part of the Efatian or Chakka chain. The boundary of the Worra Galla to the east is the country of Adel and the territory of Iman Faris, who resides in Gherfa. After leaving Tartar Amba, saw to the right two high steep hills, called upper and lower Chaffa. Tanta is the capital of the Tribe Worra Himana, where Imam Liban resides. The power of this Chief thirty years ago extended over Geshen, and to the frontiers of Lasta. Its extent now is five days' journey from east to west. Tanta contains 600 inhabitants. Here it may be remarked, how necessary it is to recon- sider conclusions come to on the spot, and how persons at a distance can see errors which travellers on the spot do not perceive. Thus Mr. Krapf says of the rivers Adella and Mel- cho Chilla, that the former comes from mount Korhora, and the latter from mount Sako. Soon after, when he came to travel eastward from Gatera to Lake Haik, he passed the river Gherado, which ran north-west to the Bachilo, which cuts off the sources of the two rivers mentioned in the mountains alluded to, and shows that their true sources are much short of these mountains, and to the west of the river Gherado last mentioned. The bed of the Bachilo was found to be 100 feet broad, but the breadth of water in it only thirty feet, and about half a foot deep. It is a fine river, and takes up the wa- ters of all the rivers and torrents in those parts. From it there was a fine view to the west of the monastery of Sa- mayda in the north-cast of Gojam, the mountains of Be- gemder, and capital of Ras Ali. Dcbra Sabor was also in [40] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. view from an eminence to the eastward of the point where the Bachilo was first crossed. The course of the Bachilo is exceedingly winding and circuitous. The plain of Da- tanta to the north of the Bachilo was rich in cattle and grass, and indicated considerable wealth. The road to Maitsha was in the south-west corner of the plain. When advanced about six miles beyond the Bachilo, Mr. Krapf was obliged to turn back, and crossing the Bachilo higher up returned to Gatera by Tartar Amba and Totola, the latter one of the greatest markets in Abyssinia, and fre- quented by merchants from Gondar, Tigre, and Shoa. Be- roos people trade with theDannakils andTajoura. Leaving Totola and advancing to Gatera, they had a most magnifi- cent view of the territories of the Woolla Galla. Ranges of mountains run from south or south-east to north-east and north, each range separated from the other by a plain or a river, or a torrent. The rivers run chiefly to the Bachilo, which collects its waters from 100 miles round to carry its tribute to the Nile. Woorra Kallo, or "Woolla Galla, is the place where the caravans going to Aussa and Tajoura assem- ble. At Gatera Mr. Krapf was robbed and very ill-treated by the Chief Adara Bille, from whom he escaped after some difficulty. On the 6th of April, Mr. Krapf left Gatera, and pass- ing by Totola marched through a beautiful valley intersected by the river Gherado, which runs north-west to the Bachilo, he came to the Berkona, which descending from the north- west, soon after turns to the east, and runs to the country of Adel. Totola is in Woorra Kallo. The district of To- tola extends from ten to fifteen miles. The plain is watered by aqueducts, and has abundance of cattle. W^iere crossed, the river Berkona was twenty feet wide, and one span deep ; GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [41] its source six miles distant, in the hill Boroo. Beyond the Berkona he came to mount Moffa, the capital of Amana, and in course of a few miles fui-ther came to the celebrated lake called Haik. Most of the waters of Woorra Kallo join the Berkona. The approach to lake Haik was through a beautiful fertile valley, the soil of which was a black mould. This celebrated lake is, according to Mr. Krapf, about forty-five miles in circumference ; its length from east to west greater than its breadth. It has several bays, and within a few hundred yards of the north-west corner, is an island called Debra Nayoodquad, (hill of thunder) distant from the mainland about 260 yards. The island is almost square, with a monastery and 100 houses. The surrounding scenery is fine, and the climate is agreeable. On the east and south sides there are steep mountains ; but on the other sides the shores are low. Alvaraez says, that it overflows at two places during the rains, which must, of course, be on the west side, and the superabundant waters must accordingly flow into the Berkona. High mountains stood to the north and north-west, one of which was mount Sagorat, at the northern foot of which rose the river Bachilo, not far from the sources of the Berkona : extreme high land, however, rising between them. Quitting Lake Haik, Mr. Krapf set out on his arduous journey to Antalow. After passing the village of Bora, he crossed the river Mille, then fifteen feet broad, and three inches deep. It springs from the foot of Mount Mofa, and joining the Berkona flows into the Hawash. The range of mountains previously alluded to, surrounds Abyssinia like a girdle toward the east and north-east. The Mille flowed through a beautiful valley, the soil of which was rich with trees and grass, but with little cultivation. Be- [42] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. yond the Mille is the celebrated mountain in Geshen, for- merly the state prison for the royal family of Abyssinia. The proper name is Amba Israel, corrupted to Ambassil. It extends from nine to twelve miles in a northerly direction, and is very high and steep, with several conspicuous peaks. It is so steep and so high that Mr. Krapf conceived a can- non ball would not reach its summit. Mount Geshano lays to the north west of Mount Amba Israel. The Governor of the mountain was Ali Beroo : the population independent Mahomedans. The river Mille runs through the districts of Scoba and Goombesa, and passing them traverses the district of Wochale. Near Lubso they en- tered the country or province of Yeshoo, The village of Mersa is frequented by merchants from Yeshoo. The country east to the Dannakils was almost a wilderness. The River Ergibba runs to the country of Adel, and on its banks are many coffee trees. The people of Yeshoo have a curious custom of standing still and turning their backs to a stranger whom they may meet, till they receive a bless- ing. Something of this kind is witnessed in Georgia, and in countries to the south of the Cacausus. The village of Mersa is a little beyond the river of that name, which comes from the northwestward, and carries a considerable quantity of water in its bed. The climate in the plains is beautiful, and cotton and red pepper grow on the banks of the river. After crossing the Mersa they came to Woldaia, the capital of Dejasmady, the Governor of Yeshoo. Pur- suing the journey north-east, they crossed the river Ala, having previously crossed a stream called the black water, both of which run to the eastward. The Ala was a considerable stream. Stopping at the village of Shal GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [43] for tlie night, they next day ascended the high land which divides Yeshoo from Lasta and the northern Angot. Shal is in the district of Sacke. In the forenoon, the travellers, after passing many rivulets, reached an elevated spot where the road divides, the one going north- west to Lalibela, and the other north-east to Sokota and Antalow. Angot commenced immediately to the east. The mountains run north-east from south and south- west : Angot is now dependent upon Yeshoo. At some distance to the east, saw a very high mountain in Angot inhabited by the Raia Gallas. A river runs through a plain in the province, the magnitude of which was uncer- tain. During the night they stopped at the village of Saragodel. Leaving Saragodel they ascended till about 9 a.m. — the road a complete wilderness. The highland of Lasta and Angot is very cold, and quite different from the climate of Yeshoo. There were no trees ; saw some foxes, no birds, nor travellers, nothing but desolation and a coarse grass called Goossar, the growth of most elevated cold places — the height here supposed to be 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. After mid-day they came to a few houses, and from two o'clock they began to descend, and the country began to improve, and water became abundant. They found many fine birds, and juniper trees, and nume- rous deep beds of rivulets, all of which had their courses to the north-west. The boundary mountains of Lasta and Wofila, send off streams which run to Adel. At the village of Deldie, or the bridge, the travellers rested for the night. This point is a place where the merchants going north to Waag and Sokota, or south from these places and Wofila, to Wolduia and Yeshoo, generally assemble. [44] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. Quitting Deldei, they marched eastwai"d toward Wofila, and Lake Assanghe, in order that they might avoid Sokota, the Governor of which was stated to be a rude man ; and crossing the river Tarir, came to Endalke. This village belongs to Wofila, and is dependent upon the Governor of Waag. The road was intersected by rills and brooks. At a hamlet in Tantara, saw a man ploughing. They took the course more northerly in order to avoid the Raia Gallas. The road to Wofila was to the west of the Convent Sham- madoo Mariam. Road traversed hilly, but not rocky coun- try J and from the hills could see in the north north-west, the mountains of Lasta and the towering snowy peaks of Samen, like large towers. The hilly country of Lasta and Waag, as far as the eye could reach, exactly resembled the raging waves of the sea in a storm. Deldei is the boun- dary between the government of Waag and that of Djes- mady Paris. Waag is in the country of the Agows. Lasta is bounded south by Yeshoo, Wadela, and Angot ; west by Begemder ; north by Waag ; and east by Angot and the Raia Galla tribes. The principal towns of Wofila are Zelga, Bora, and Lake Assanghe. It is bounded north- east by Tigre. The Agows are different from all other Abyssinians. In Wofila, the country is better cultivated than in Waag and Angot. Pursuing their course northward, they reached Lat, a considerable village to the eastward, say east south-east, of which about eight to nine miles was the Lake Assanghe and village Wofila, near which and south-eastward of it was another but smaller lake. Lake Assanghe is sur- rounded by mountains. It is not so large as Lake Haik, and has no island in it. In the vicinity there are many villages. Zelga is due east of Lat. Leaving Lat they GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [45] traversed for a little the dry bed of a river which runs to the Tacazze, then only a few days' journey distant. They were still far from Antalow. Shortly after, they crossed another river, its course north north-west, bearing down in its bed a considerable body of water. From this cross- ing a mountain, they on the following day crossed the river Ghebia, another tributarv to the Tacazze. They then entered the district of Bora and passed the Shum- shato, a tributary to the Tacazze, and with much water in its bed. The banks of the river were adorned with beauti- ful trees. Still in the Agows country. Ascending as thev proceeded, they had a good view of the province of Waag, which is mountainous, resembling in this respect Geshen and Northern Shoa. It is susceptible of cultiva- tion, and could maintain a much larger number of people than it now does. It is every where intersected by deep dales, steep hills, and torrents. Sokota is the principal market. On the twentieth of April they crossed the river Tyana. It is a fine river, and carries much water in its bed, and is a tributary to the Tacazze. It separates Waag from the province of Enderta, formerly part of Tigre. Every spot on its banks is well cultivated. The climate of Waag is beautiful, healthy, and has a fine air. Enderta is low and rather flat. Pursuing their journey over a mountain, and through a thorny uncultivated coun- try, first north-east, and then turning westward and crossing the rivulet Gumato, they, after a long and fatigu- ing journey, entered Antalow, the capital of Enderta. This town is much decayed, and most of the houses had been ruined in the wars which had taken place with the neighbouring countries. When Salt visited it in 1805 and last in 1 809, it was the capital of the Ras Welled Salesse, [46] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. and of consequence a place of some importance, though even then it was not very large nor poj^ulous. Its situation, however, was commanding and fine. From Antalow, Mr. Krapf pursued his journey by Mount Taranta to Mas- sowah, at which place he embarked to proceed to Egypt. Having traced Mr. Krapf to Antalow, and in his jour- ney from Ankobar to that place, or by far the larger por- tion of it, through a country never before travelled over by any European, it becomes of some consequence to ascertain as near as possible the position of Antalow. Mr. Krapf's route from Lake Haik is in point of distance made good, and in bearings less easterly and more restricted than it is considered they might actually have been. From the strict letter of his narrative, Antalow should be a little more to the eastward and the northward, than the point where it is placed on the map. He himself states point- edly that the road to Antalow by Lake Assanghe would have been the nearest, thus indicating a more easterly posi- tion to the place. His last bearing, namely, proceeding west to Antalow, puzzles me, as it is seldom the guides so greatly overshoot their mark ; and it is by no means impro- bable that in this case the bearing has been reversed, and that his last journey to Antalow was to the east, and not to the west. If so, it would just place Antalow in a position where the road coming from the south by Lake Assanghe would have been the nearest to Antalow. In Salt's first voyage * the Latitude of Antalow from three observations is given 12° 48' north. In Salt's last voyage it is given 13° 23' and the Longitude of Chilecut by observations of the Moon 39 33' east, but which he acknowledges was * Valentia, vol. iii. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [47] a doubtful observation, and gave the position too far to the west. In the midst of such discrepancies, there is no certainty nor safety, and therefore it becomes necessary to fix the point from bearings and distances which, as we are able to take and to check from various quarters, may be relied on as nearly correct, and which we are fortunately enabled to do in a satisfactory and convincing manner. Bruce places Dixan from actual observation in 40^^ 7' east Longitude ; but which I have altered to 40° 2', tak- ing the Longitude of Massowah by Ruppel, the difference being the error of Bruce, if error it is, which I much ques- tion. From Dixan to Antalow, the journey of Salt was to the eastward of south, and their return, as also Mr. Krapf's route from Antalow to Dixan and Halai, was to the west- ward of north. Attagerat, Mr. Ruppel tells us, is only two and a half days' journey from the sea in the Bay of Amphila. This brings its position to the east of its pre- sent place. But the following shews still more clearly the eastern position of Antalow. When two days journey north of Chehcut, Mr. Krapf states that they were then only five days' journey from Bure on the coast of the Red Sea. The Ras of Abyssinia in a conversation he had with Mr. Salt about the best and nearest port to Antalow from which the trade with England and India could be opened up confirms this, when he stated that Bure was only four days' journey (messengers it is supposed) from Antalow with a good camel road, and wxll supplied with water. The vicinity of the sea-coast to Antalow is also clearly shewn by the observation which Salt and the other officers of the Embassy made in reply that they considered Belur or Biloul as more eligible on account of " the vicinity of [48] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. the place to his capital." * and we find that a messenger dispatched for the Chief of Bure, returned with him to Antalow in about ten days. When Pierce left Antalow, in order to escape from the service of the Ras, he travelled due south, and reached Wofila to the east of Lake Assanghe ; and as he makes no particular mention of crossing rivers in his route south, so it is clear he must have been, as he was, some distance to the east of Mr. Krapfs course going north. This further establishes the eastern, or rather the more eas- tern position of Antalow. About forty miles from Antalow, Pierce came to the province of Wojjerat ; sixteen miles more, to a plain inhabited by a portion of the Dobas ; fourteen miles more, to lyah, a town belonging to the Assubo Galla, and fourteen miles more (in time forty-two hours) toMocurra, one mile and a half from Lake Assanghe to the east. This distance gives not only the more eastern, but also the largest supposed northern point for the position of Antalow. When Mr. Krapf crossed the Tyana and other rivers, it was at the close of the dry season, when they were necessarily at the lowest ; consequently, the considerable quantity of water which was found in the beds of the Tyana and the Shumshato, shews that their sources must have been some distance to the eastward, and that Pierce must have passed them close to their sources, where they were such diminutive streams as not to be known or worth any particular notice. This view of the subject is not only borne out by Mr. Krapfs narrative, but corroborated by the route of Alvaraez in a wonderful degree. Corcora, from which he marched south-east, along " a goodly river " for six hours, this being in the rainy season, is one day's journey from the famous salt plain of Abyssinia, * Valentia, vol. iii. pp, 39, 40, &c. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [49] In his first day's journey from Corcora, he crossed a stu- pendous mountain, at the only point where it was passable, for a distance of sixtv miles. After this he reached the town of Manadele, certainly the Mantilli of Salt, south- east from Antalow. Manadele is situated in a cham- pagne country, six miles by two in extent, abounding in grain, which shews that it must be well watered. It is surrounded by very high mountains, and was then a place of great trade, being frequented by merchants from ever}' part of Abyssinia, Egypt, Greece, Arabia, Ormuz, India, and Adel. It was close to the countiy of the Dobas, but subject to Tigre. From Manadele, Alvaraez pursued his course to Defarfo, and thence travelling by the foot of the mountain of Ginnamora, from whence issued many small streams, he came to the river Sabalette, the boundary of Tigre in that quarter. His route by Mount Ginnamora was on its south-east side, the barrier and the division of the waters between the sources of the Tyana &c. flowing north-west, and the Sabalette and others flowing south-east. The positions of these places and rivers thus represented, give the distance from the western point of the Dobas to Assab fifteen days' journey, the time stated by Alvaraez, very correctly. From Lake Assanghe, Pearce pursued his journey westerly, passing to the east of the Lake, which is three days' journey in circuit, and called in the language of Tigre " Tsada Bahri," or White Sea, and to the west of the smaller lake, till he came to the village of Dafat, on the summit of Mount Dafat, where he rested for the night. Here he found the cold very keen, and hoar frost on the ground on the morning of October 1st. He then pur- sued his way west, about thirty-five miles, and came to the d [.50] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. village of Marzalla, near the sources of the Tacazze, called " am Tacazze," or the eyes of the Tacazze, which are half a day's journey east of Lalibela, or rather the place where Lalibela once stood, but which is now occupied by a vil- lage called Bobbala by Lefevre's informant. From the sources of the river, he followed the windings of the stream to Mukkine, a distance of about fifteen miles, eight hours. Here the river was thirty feet broad. From this place he travelled north by east to Sokota, the capital of Lasta, about half way from which, and west of his route near the Tacazze, was the high mountain of Salah-ferre. This place or mountain is eight miles east of the river, and Sokota ten. The language of the country is Amharic. Sokota is larger than Antalow, and about six days' journey distant from it. Soon after leaving Sokota, Mr. Pearce entered the country of Waag, and journeying three days northward along the banks of the river through the coun- try of Gualieu, inhabited by the Agows, to a point on the Tacazze, about thirty miles south of the town of Maisada in the district of Avei"gale. From Mukkine to this point, Pearce had not met with any river of importance running into the Tacazze, though he had crossed in the neighbour- hood of Mukkine many small streams and rivulets. On the 9th October he crossed the Tacazze, and entered the province of Samen. The river, where he crossed it, was three hundred yards broad. As the rainy season was, it may be said, over, I cannot help thinking that there is some mistake here about the breadth of the river, and that vards have been by mistake substituted for feet ; and even at this latter breadth, it is plain that some powerful tribu- taries must join it from the western side between Mukkine and this point, a distance of about fifty miles, and these GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [51] must be still more powerful, if the river is really 900 feet broad. But this does not at all agree with its breadth near Maisada, as given by Mr. Salt, at fifty yards and three feet deep,* and still further down by Bruce 200 yards in the dry season. That the river Arequa, mentioned by Salt, is the bed of all the principal rivers crossed by Mr. Krapf between Sara- godel and Antalow is plain from this narrative of Pearce and the point where he crossed the Tacazze ; and that their junction takes place nearly in the places or points as placed in the map is obvious, not only from the direction of their currents where crossed, but from the testimony of an Abyssinian, who travelled from Antalow across the coun- try south-west to the country near the abodes of theEdjow Gallas. The first river that he came to on the route men- tioned was the Zimmera,t a very considerable stream, and clearly the Tyana of Krapf. It rises in the province of Wogerat, and enters the district of Boura, and then Salowa. Passing the village of Sakka, and crossing a mountain, the traveller came to a river called Tsalari, most probably the river Ghebia of Krapf, and some of its tributaries. Be- yond Sokota is Mount Jala, the Sala of Pearce, and which the Abyssinian stated was as high as Amba Hai, and with the same kind of vegetation on its summit. Beyond Mount Jala, or Sala-ferre, is the village and river of Gueralia, a tributarv to the Tacazze — then the river Mary, a west side tributary. Beyond Lalibela, or Bobbala, is the village of Dan- gobat ; and beyond it a considerable river called Cutchinaba, running among high mountains and passing several vil- lages. Going southerly, the country of the Edjow Gallas is reached. The Cutchinaba of the Abyssinian is no doubt * Salt, p. 254. t Geographical Bulletin, Paris ILMO. (I 2 [52] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. the Tchevtz Chico of Krapf, which he states rises near the famous pass of that name, on the confines of Lasta and Be- gemder, and pm'suing a westerly course joins the Nile, be- tween Daunt and Begemder, that is to the south of Alata, and is most probably the same river that bears the name of the Alata at its junction with the Nile. Bruce, vol. iii. p. 380, informs us that the Agows of Lasta are called Tchertz Agows, probably from living about the pass mentioned ; and at vol. v. p. 509, we learn that this pass was on the frontiers of Waag, or not far from these, perhaps the eastern pass, as there were two of them. One was on the frontier of Lasta.* The whole of the countries under immediate considera- tion are extremely hilly, but with numerous fertile valleys, the province of Enderta being chiefly low and particularly fertile. We have thus before us the celebrated river Tacazze, the Astobaras of the ancients, with its numerous and early tributaries, delineated in a manner it has never hitherto been done. Bruce pointedly stated that the Tacazze rose 200 miles south-east of Gondar, that its main stream came from Angot, and its other branch came from the frontiers of Begemder and Lasta, near Dam- buco and Lalibala. At the ford where he crossed it to the south of Sire, in Latitude 13° 42' 45" north, it was in the dry season 200 yards broad and three feet deep. We now find its sources to be w'here he had placed them, and its early course — that is the course of the western branch — Pearce from actual observation tells us that it is " northwesterly"t along the base of the Samen range. Bruce also stated, and Pearce found this to be the case, that the river before receiving the Angot branch the Arequa, or Tyana or Zimmera, that it runs between Lasta, Gualieu, * Bruce, vol. iv. p. 87. + Salt, p. •184. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [53] and Belessen. Between Antalow and Chelicut, Salt informs us there are two small streams.* The pros- pect from Antalow to the south is very fine. In a clear day they could see the high mountains Salowa and Boora, about twenty miles to the south. Salt states that "the river Arequa from the width of its bed and the body of water which it brings down," is the largest river be- tween the coast and the Tacazze.f It runs through the fine country of Avergale, and joins the Tacazze in the dis- trict of Temben. Waag is south of Avergale.J Nearly the w^hole surface of Abyssinia from north to south, and from east to west, is covered with vast moun- tains, great ranges and high hills, some of which are of very singular forms. From these flow in all directions numerous rills, rivulets, streams, and rivers ; many of the latter of considerable magnitude, and nearly all of which flow to form the Bahar-el-Azreck, or Blue River, or the Nile. All the mountains are very high, and several of them remarkably so. The peak of Samen, called Amba Hai, is calculated to be 14,000 feet above the level of the sea ; but as snow lies perpetually on its summit, it must be at least 2000 feet higher before the snow can lay perpetually in that low latitude 1 .3" from the Equator. Taranta con- siderably exceeds 10,000 feet. The mountains in Lasta, Angot, and Northern Shoa, where frost, hail, and snow are often found, must be of a comparative elevation, and proba- bly exceed 12,000 feet. Bruce calculated the height of the fountains of the Nile at two miles 10,340 feet, and Mount Amid above these half a mile 2,585 feet more ; and yet he adds that hail, but no snow, was frequently seen on them. In KafFa the mountains rise above the limits of * Salt, p. 347. + lb. p. 350. t lb. P- 279, &c. [54] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. snow, and we have the authority of Ptolemy to state, that the mountains around the sources of the Bahr-el-Abiad, al- most under the Equinoctial, are also covered with snow. Abyssinia is altogether a most extraordinary country, and has undergone many and extraordinary revolutions. But it has been so well described by Bruce, and latterly by other travellers, that it is considered unnecessary to go into minute details here, except to advert to the mere geo- graphical points and positions, which it is necessary to bring under review. Toward the north-west, only where it approaches the plain of Senaar and the junction of the Tacazze with the Nile, can the country he called flat. Where the Blue River approaches Fazuclo it bursts through the stupendous chain of mountains on either hand as if it was issuing through a door. The scenery must be very grand. There is one cataract here 280 feet high, and below it two others, but of a much less height. From hence to Senaar, and indeed to Khartoum, the course of the river is smooth. The climate around Fazuclo is most delicious. The present Viceroy of Egypt was there in the summer of 1839, and he states, that though then considerably above seventy years of age, the climate was so enlivening as to bring him back to the age of twenty five ! At this place he has built a city, and given it his own name ; and there can be no doubt that from its position it will soon rise into importance. The Shangalla or Negro tribes have encroached greatly on Abys- sinnia in the west, north-west, and north, as the Gallas have done on the south-west, south, and south-east ; and all these tribes have carried ignorance, idleness, desolation, violence, misery, and poverty wherever they have come. The village and halting-place of Halai on the summit of Mount Taranta is, according to Ruppell, situated in GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [55] 14" 59' 37" North Latitude, 8093 French feet above the level of the sea ; and Takheragera on the frontiers of Waag and Salowa in 13" 39' 22" North Latitude. Salt* has a re- markable expression, namely, that on the " eastward side of the Tacazze in this Latitude rises the lofty province of Sa- men," which would indicate that part of Samen is on the east side of that river, unless the word " eastward" has been substituted for " westward." Samen is a particularly mountainous country ; so is Belessen, to the north of which is Lamalmon, on the summits of which ice is found, which gives this mountain a great elevation. Attagerat, the capital of Agame, is 7675 French feet above the level of the sea, and Takheragera 5955. The waters between Halai and Attagerat, and also a little southward of the latter place, run to the Red Sea. The river Geba when Ruppell crossed it was twenty feet broad, and on an average two feet deep. The bed of the Tacazze he calculated to be 2812 French feet above the level of the sea. Entschetgab he places on 13° 6' 19'' North Latitude and 38° 19' 29" East Longitude from Greenwich, and the elevation 9,713 French feet above the level of the sea. Massowa he places in 39" 29' 24" Longitude east of Greenwich, and Latitude 15° 36'. Bruce places it on 39" 36' 30" east longitude and 15° 35' 8", and the position given to it by Bruce is probably nearest the truth. There is a remarkable discrepancy between Ruppell, Bruce, and Salt about the rivers near Adowa and Axum. The former says they run from north to south, and the latter two gentle- men, who also saw them, state that they run from south to north. I have followed Ruppell in placing them in the Map. According to Salt, the coast of the Red Sea • Salt, p. 490. [56] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIK. from Rachmah to Ras Hassar lies flat and low, and is bounded by higb mountains at no great distance.* The Bay of Amphila extends sixteen miles on the coast, and is about twelve miles deep. At the bottom of the bay there are two villages, Madir and Durora; the latter the largest. The range of mountains are about fifteen miles distant. These run north-west and south-east, and immediately beyond this is a still loftier chain, extending from Senafe to Taranta. Senafe properly signifies boundary, and is some times written Senaa. The road from Amphila Bay is nearly west, and three days' journey brings the traveller to the edge of the Salt plain, which runs in a north-east to a south-west direction, and is four days' journey in length. It takes five hours to cross it at this point, when the travel- ler comes to Durwa, the first village within the territory of the Ras, Hence passing the village of Dafa, and a fine plain, the highest range of mountains is reached, called here Senafe, and which is as high as Taranta. The journey from Amphila is a journey of nine days. The road west from Amphila is supplied with water. From Arkeeko to Aylat in a direct line is about twenty miles west. Near this place is the source of a river, which at some distance west joins the river springing near Bisan and Dobarwa, and according to Mr. L'Abadie f forms the river A'nsaba, which runs northerly to the Red Sea at Taka, two days' journey to the south of Souakem. This is a new feature in the geography of this part of Africa, and is extremely probable. Burkhardt states that the mountains of Langay are considerably elevated ; that he found streams and rivulets descending from them to the * Salt, p. 140. t Geographical Bulletin, Paris, Sept. 1842. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [57] eastward and north-eastward ; that the scenery was very beautiful, and the cUmate reminded him of that on Mount Lebanon. The small district of Taka, three days' journey in length, and one day's journey in breadth, (other accounts say double) is exceedingly fertile. It is greatly and deeply flooded by the Mareb when swollen by the rains, and hence its great fertility. The pass of Ta- ranta is south by compass from Massowa, when the varia- tion was 14° west, and the highest part of the mountain is to the south and east of the pass. Dixan is at the foot of the mountain on its west side, and only about three geographical miles in a direct line from Halai. From Halai, Bruce could distinguish the sea to the north- east. The descent to the sea is exceedingly precipi- tous. From Dixan to Antalow, Salt on his first journey was fifteen days. The course was to the eastward of south. Shoa with some adjacent provinces, now under the con- trovd of the independent Gallas, formerly formed part of the Abyssinian empire, and in the days of the strength and extent of that empire, the Sovereigns thereof resided in the southern parts, and for a considerable time at Tegulet, and other residences in Southern Shoa. But Shoa be- came independent of the Sovereigns of Abyssinia sub- sequent to the confusion which ensued after the fearful desolation spread over that empire by the Mahomedans under Mahomed Gragne, and the early irruptions of the Gallas, who spread ruin among both. Shoa was also considerably straitened in its dominions by these bar- barians. Mr. Krapf has pretty accurately defined its modern boundaries ; so much so, that with the assistance of the ]Map, it is considered unnecessary to enlarge upon d5 [58] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. that subject in this place. The boundaries and extent of the provinces of Abyssinia which now belong to it, and which are best defined, are as follows : Tigre in its greatest extent from Dobarwa southward, is about 200 miles from north to south, and 120 miles from east to west. Its eastern boundary is the high land, which separates the waters which flow east into the Red Sea from those which flow west into the Tacazze. On the south it is bounded by Angot and Lasta, and on the west by part of Begemder, and next by Samen, and then by Sire, and on the north by Shangalla and Arab tribes. Amhara is 120 miles from east to west, sixty miles from north to south, and is bounded on the south by Walaka and the Woolla Galla; on the east by Geshen or Yeshen, and Lasta ; on the north by Begemder ; and on the west by the Nile. Begemder excluding Lasta is 1 20 miles from east to west, and sixty to seventy miles from north to south, bounded east by Lasta and part of Gualieu, south by Amhara, west by the Nile and part of Lake Dembea, and north by Belessen, and a part of Samen. Samen eighty to ninety miles from north to south, and about forty to fifty from east to west, is bounded east by Lasta, Waag, and Tigre ; north by Tigre and Sire ; west by Lamalmon and Belessen, and south by part of Lasta and Belessen. Gondar is a province to the north- ward, as Dembea is to the westward of Lake Tzana or Dembea. Maitsha is a province south of the Lake, ex- tending from the Nile on the east, to the Nile on the west, and bounded south by Goutto, the province about the sources of the Nile, and Gojam more to the east. Gojam is bounded bv Maitsha, and Mount Amid Amid on the north, by the Nile on the east and the south, and by GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [59] Daraot on the west. It stretches westward on the Nile to Hades Amba and near the passage that proceeds over the Nile to Gooderoo. Damot is bounded east by Gojam, south by the Nile, east by undefined Abysinian and Galla territories, and north by Goutto. Bure is its capital. In former times Damot extended across the Nile to the northern frontier of Enarea, when that province formed part of the Abyssinian empire. Westward of Dembea, is Kuara, and next to it, and northward, is Ras el Feel, the boundaries of either of which to the westward and south-east, as well as to the north, cannot be accurately defined. Gojam and Damot abound in cattle, and were at one time well cultivated and productive. The province of Lasta, which once formed part of Begemder, is exceed- ingly mountainous, and the cold thereon very great ; so much so, that most of the army of the Abyssinian King FaciUdas, perished when there by its severity, even in the month of March, when he went to attack the inhabitants who had revolted. He defeated them near Lebo. Beles- sen is throughout exceedingly mountainous. Wechne is about thirty- five miles from Emfras, and is one of the state prisons appointed for the Royal Family. Gafat is not a continued country, but a set of scattered villages. Wumburna or Umburna is one of them. Senasse is the capital of the Gongas, and is situated to the north of the Nile ; but the tribe inhabit both banks. In this district, in the east, is the passage of the Nile at Mine, (the word means passage), on the western route to Enarea, and below it is the famous cataract in the Nile, 280 feet high. Both are in the country of the Gongas. Below them on both sides of the Nile are the Nuba. Amoro is to the [60] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. south of the Nile, called also Amoro Jidda, from a Galla tribe of that name. But quitting this portion of the countiy, it is necessary, in elucidation of the Map and the subject, to turn to the south, in order to make a few remarks and observations. The cataract of Alata is forty feet high, and at all times, more especially during the rainy season, it is a magnificent sight. The Nile, in approaching it, runs confined between two banks, in a deep trough, roaring over its bed with impetuous velocity. When Bruce saw it, the stream was increased from the rains, and was then half an Eng- lish mile in breadth. The river was nevertheless clear. No crocodiles are to be found above the cataract. A brisk stream called Mariam Ohha, runs to the Nile, a little below the village of Alata. This stream comes from Begemder, and is the Tchertz Chico of Krapf, already alluded to. A great number of rivers join Lake Dembea, from the hilly regions in the east, the north, and the west. The Nile itself is a considerable liver before it joins the Lake. It has, on both sides, from its sources, down- wards, several considerable tributaries, especially the Jimma on the east, and the Assar on the west. This latter was as large as the Nile, and when Bruce crossed it in the dry season, he found it 1 70 yards broad, and two feet deep. The country to the southward of the sources of the Nile, included in that large circle, which the river makes, is, exclusive of the very high mountains with which it is covered, very elevated land, and gives birth to innumerable springs and rivulets, which in a short sjface form considerable rivers. The western passage of the Nile to Enarea is at a place called Mine, which in fact means passage, and it is the opinion of the writer that GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [61] it is not so far west as it has been represented to be. He grounds this opinion on the statement made by Bruce,* that it is not far from Hades Amba, which is in Gojam. Near this latter place is the passage of the Nile, on the route by the east side of Lake Dembea and Basso to Good- eroo and Enarea. Both roads to Enarea, but especially that from Mine, are mountainous. The distance from Mine to Enarea, or the capital Sakka, is fifty leagues, according to Bruce, and due south ; the distance, thirteen days journey, viz : seven days to Gonea, and six from Gonea to the capital. Before reaching Gonea, the traveller crosses a very high mountain. The distance here given is checked bv the distance given by the Gooderoo route, from repeat- ed and quite different authorities, and both agree in a surprising manner as to the position of the capital of Enarea. Immediately adjoining the Nile on its south bank is the country called Bezamo, inhabited by the Boren and the Bestumo Gallas. Formerly the province of Damot ex- tended across the Nile southward to the confines of Enarea ; but since the conquests by the Galla, Damot is now confined to the north bank of the Nile. The pro- vince of Enarea proper is on all sides surrounded with high mountains, especially to the south and the west ; those to the south in Caffa rising above the limits of snow. The province is an elevated Plateau, watered by many considerable streams, wet and marshy, but fertile, especially in coffee of a superior quality. The river Zebee runs through it, and is formed by several large branches rising to the north-west, particularly the Omo and the Gojob. The ridges and hills in this quarter are evidently * Brute, vol. v. p. 5-t. [G2] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. and generally calcareous, and hence the colour of the Zebee from the sands it brings down, and running over white calcareous rocks, which makes the water resemble melted butter. The population of Enarea and Kaffa are generally Christian, but of late years have become intermixed with Mahomedans and Pagans. These provinces formed the most southern and western provinces of the Abyssinian Empire in the days of its greatest strength ; and had, as has been stated, an intercourse with the coasts of the At- lantic, by means of regular trading stations through the interior. KafFa, or CafFa, lies south-west from Enarea, and beyond it is Limmou, lately brought to the knowledge of the Europeans by a native of it (Bull. Geo. Society, Paris, July 1839), who was lately in Paris. In fact, it is stated, and perhaps truly stated, that Limmou is only part of Enarea in its most extended sense. Be this as it may, however, the fact is, that the river Habahia and its early tributaries, which rise to the westward of Kaffa, run to the southward, and, as we shall see by and by, most proba- bly form the parent streams of the Bahr-el-Abiad, al- though Ptolemy's account, perhaps, after all, that which is most to be relied on, indicates that it is not so. The nearest way to Enarea from Gojam is by Gooderoo. There is also another route much frequented from Enarea to Rogie in Shoa, and thence to Ankobar and AngoUalla. The road by Gooderoo takes thirty days to travel at the rate of about nine miles per day made good. Limmou is wholly peopled by Gallas, who are a brave race of men with agreeable countenances. Their arms are a corset and crooked sabre, a lance, &c., in the forms resembling the representations of those which are found in the ancient monuments of Egypt and Nubia. This is GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [63] curious and interesting. To the west and north-west of the districts composing Limmou are the Shangalla or Ne- groes, quite a different race from the Gallas. It has already been stated, that many of the Gallas are of a fair complexion. The Geographical Bulletin of Paris, 1840, p. 374, states from information lately received concerning them, that among them are many whites with agreeable coun- tenances ; and that the females are generally pretty. Bruce also states,* that nearly under the line and south of Abys- sinian and black tribes, all the people are white, as we, says he, have had an opportunity of seeing the Gallas daily, whom we have described. They are partly Mahomedans, and marry according to Mahomedan rites. Their acquaintance with Mahomedans probably first proceeded from the shores of the Indian Ocean. Native travellers state most pointedly, that the river Gibbie or Gebo flows north to the Nile ; that it is a large deep stream, full of crocodiles ; that it rises in the mountains to the southward of Shoa, or in mountains called Abeze Gaye, to the north of Gingiro, and passes near Tchallia, two days' journey to the north of the confines of Narea or Enarea. Others, however, state that they pass it, or a branch of it, in the route from Gooderoo to Enarea, according as it has been placed on the ]\lap. From a very early period of history, even I believe as early as the days of Herodotus, it has been stated, that in Africa, to the south of Enarea, and near the equator, there is a country inhabited by pigmies, or a diminutive race of men. Late accounts received from the east coast of Africa assert that such a people have actually been found in nearly the position mentioned, and bordering on a river most pro- bably the Quillimancy or an early tributary. The Arab wri- * Vol. vi. p. 400. [64] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. ters of the twelfth and thirteenth century make mention of this race of men, and state that they inhabited a comi- try in the part of Africa alluded to, and dwelt by a river called the river of Pigmies, which river they assert was formed by two rivers which rose on the eastern side of the mountains of the moon, (the Bahr-el-abiad, rising on the west side of the chain) and after considerable courses be- come united in one under the name of the river of the pigmies. Though clothed in Arabic and oriental phrase- ology, the account when sobered down to geographical accuracy, may after all not be far from the truth. Can the junction of the Quillimancy with a river rising to the south of Andak be the river mentioned, or rather alluded to ? Every geographer who has written on the east coast of Africa, especially the Portuguese, places a large river enter- ing the Indian Ocean, near Magadoxo. Abulfeda, an ac- curate writer, particularly mentions it, and states that it overflowed like the Nile ; and that it had a long course rising, according to the Arabian mode of stating such things, in the lake Kuara or Dembea, the source of the Egyptian Nile. The Bombay Times of July 1842, announces, upon the authority of accounts received from Captain Harris, the Ambassador at Shoa, that such a river does enter the Indian Ocean in latitude two degrees north, that it goes by different names, and among others is called the Bargama, or Bahar Gama, in which we clearly recognize the country of Bahargama, or Bergamo of Bruce to the eastward, and southward of Gurague, the sources no doubt of the great river mentioned. This river is said to be of great magnitude at its mouth, to have a long navi- gable course of several hundred miles, and to rise in moun- GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [65] tains to the north of the Line. It goes also by the name of Goolob. This is curious and important. But not the least important — if it may not in reality be stated to be the most important — poi-tion of modern discov- eries in Africa remains to be noticed. This is the expedi- tion directed by the present enlightened and enterprising Viceroy of Egypt, at the close of 1839, to explore the course of the Bahr-el-abiad, or White River, long known to be the chief branch of the Egyptian Nile. The expedition started from Khartoum in December 1839, soon after the commencement of the dry season. It consisted of three or four sailing barques and some small canoes or passage boats, commanded by intelligent officers, and accompanied by 400 men from the Garrison of Senaar, They have ex- ecuted their commission well. An official abstract of their voyage was in the hands of the writer of this Memoir in the autumn of 1840, and the whole official journal is now before him from the Geographical Bulletin of Paris of July, August, and September of last year. It is very curious, very inter- ing, and very important. Every day's proceedings are noted with care ; the breadth, depth, and current of the river ; the temperature and the names of the tribes inhab- iting the banks, and the appearance of the country around as they proceeded. Their chief object — the exploration of the main stream to its utmost point — was steadily and only kept in view, and only one affluent, a large stream, was ex- plored to a considerable distance. Few other affluents were noticed or attended to, and such also might readily and easily escape their notice, because they scarcely ever went ashore, and when they did so, went but a short dis- tance ; and the banks on both sides being covered with trees, and these not onlv down to, but sometimes even into [66'] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, the stream, covered with thickets and bushes, the entrance of affluents, unless of very great magnitude, as in the case of the one referred to, might easily escape their notice. Throughout the whole voyage, they perceived no mountains or ranges in sight on either side, and but very few hills, and these disjointed (see Map) and of no great magnitude or importance. Numerous lakes and ponds were found on both banks as they advanced upwards in the southern bearing of the river, the remains no doubt of the inunda- tion of the river during the rains. The distance that the expedition advanced on the river south from Khartoum was, including windings, nearly 1 300 geographical mile's, after which, in latitude 3° 31' north, and in longitude ST east of Greenwich, the river separated into two branches ; the one, the smaller, coming from the west, and the other, the larger, coming from the east. In small canoes a party went up the western branch for a few miles, chiefly to ascertain that it continued a separate stream, which having done, they returned, finding it inca- pable of being navigated in their vessels. Where they left it, the stream was about sixty feet broad, nine to twelve feet deep, and current one mile per hour. The eastern branch they ascended in the barques to the latitude of 3° 22' north, when the water ebbed to three feet, though the breadth was nearly 1 300 feet, and the current half a mile per hour. They could not venture to proceed any further, and accordingly turned back, and descending the stream they again came to the Bahar Seboth or Red River, so called from the colour of the water, which they explored to a distance of about 145 miles, in a direct line, when the water ebbing to only three feet, they were compelled to turn back, though the breadth was still about 1 100 feet, GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [67] with a current of half a mile per hour. This river comes from a district called Mekj-edah. From this point they descended the rivers to Khartoum, which place they again reached at the end of 135 days. It is necessary to bear in mind that the magnitude of the river and its branches here given, was their magnitude in the height and at the very close of the dry season. The river, to use the words of the commander of the expedi- tion, " runs winding (serpente) through the plains of Sou- dan." For a considerable distance above Khartoum (150 miles) the breadth of the river was about one and a half mile, the depth from four to five fathoms, and the cm-rent about half a knot per hour. The breadth afterward de- creased to about half a mile, the depth from twelve to eighteen feet, and the current a knot to a knot and a fifth per hour. Beyond lake Couir the depth gradually dimin- ished, as also the breadth running from one-fifth to half a mile, but the current one mile and a half per hour, though the dry season was increasing in intensity. Several con- siderable islands were found in the river from Khartoum upwards to the confines of Shillook, especially one called Habah, at the commencement of their territory on the west side. The banks of the river from Khartoum upwards to nearly lake Couir, were generally low, which will account for the overflowing of the river, and its wide extent, as is reported during the inundation. Ascending upwards, the banks became more elevated ; but still not so much so as to prevent them being overflowed, and hence the numbers of lakes and ponds on either hand, which were found remain- ing, doubtless the remains of the inundation. The banks of the Bahar Seboth, or, as it is called in the Shillook lan- guage, Bahar Telhj, are however of considerable elevation [68] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. as far as explored, rising, and generally perpendicular, to the height of from twenty to thirty feet, which will reach above the height of the inundation, and prevent the country around from being overflowed. The whole country from Khartoum upwards is a table land of very considerable elevation, and the view on all sides exceedingly picturesque and beautiful. The numerous and considerable tribes which were found on the banks are particularly noticed in their relative positions on the Map. Of these the Shillooks, the Denkhahs, and the Kyks and Nuviers, are the most pow- erful and important. Hippopotami and crocodiles were numerous in the stream ; and cattle, sheep, goats, and asses, were everywhere numerous on either bank. The country was studded with fine trees as they ascended, and in proof of the elevation of the country above the level of the sea, it may be observed, that around the bifurcation the trees and foliage were the trees and foliage of an European cli- mate ; while to shield themselves from the effects of the cold during the night, the inhabitants sleep among warm ashes. The bed of the river is throughout sand, and hence the colour given to the stream, especially when it is in flood, is white and turbid. The gulf or lake Couir must be of a considerable size, as they were a day and a half look- ing about it without any definite result or description. Lower down there is on the west side a chain of lakes which, from the description of them, the writer takes to be the outlet of the Bahar-el-Nahal, not Nahas. Accord- ing to Linant, three rivers enter the Bahr-el-abiad from the west, and in the country of the Shillooks. The first is the Ned-el-Nile, which passes near by Gebel-el-Deir, or the mountain of the round, situated in the country of Taggala or Tuclavi. The second is the Bahar-el-Adda, which rises GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [69] to the west of Tubeldie, flows to the south of Sheibon, and enters the Nile in about 12'^ north latitude. The third is the Baher-el-Nahal, which we recognize as the river coming from the country of Dar-el-Nahas, near the copper mines, and which is subsequently joined by the Bahar Taisha at Tenderne, in the province of Cusne, where palm trees are veiy abundant. The Arabs place a river coming from the south-west and entering lake Couir or Tume ; but the name is not given. The tribe of Bhours, near the bifurcation and on the east bank, are of a copper colour ; and in the house of their Chief Indian goods were found. To the south of the bifurcation they were told that there was a veiy high mountain, with an extreme and well-cultivated plateau on its summit. The diminished size of the western branch clearly indicates that the high land which gives it birth is at no great distance. The population on the banks, though surprised at the sight of the fleet, as it may be called, ofi'ered no resistance the moment the real object of the expedition was made known to them. The Kyks, how- ever, were warlike and more suspicious, and considering that it might form a slave expedition, assembled and ofi'ered resistance. A few troops landed, and soon scattered them, with the loss of a few killed and wounded ; and after this, all was peace and submission. The chiefs of the ex- pedition gave out that they were messengers sent from heaven, which the simple people believed, and thereafter submissively and abundantly supplied all their wants. Their various tribes are frequently at war with each other. These quarrels generally originate about pasturages and boun- daries. It is considered unnecessary to dwell longer on this im- portant expedition of discovery, the most important \n a [70] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. geographical point of view that has occurred in modern times. To Mahomed Ali the glory of this discovery is due, the results of which cannot fail to be highly advan- tageous to the human race, especially to the long neglected population and country of Africa. But it would be unjust to pass over without noticing the names of the commanders of this expedition, who have so faithfully and so well obeyed the commands and executed the orders of their sovereign. These are Captain Selim, the head officer ; Sulieman Kachef; Rustam Sacolassy ; Ibrahim EfFendi ; Fez Houl- lah ; Hiuss-Bachi ; Abdorem Ragoul, and Assad Allah. These men deserve well of their country. They have a sovereign who can appreciate their services, and that won- derful man is about to send steamers up the river which we have described. It was a wonder and an era to see steam- ers crossing the Atlantic ; but what will it be to see them stemming the waters of the Nile almost to the equator, and walking as it were over the mountains of the moon, so liberally fixed in this portion of Africa by incredulous and " conjectural geographers." * An inspection of the Map will show the reader the great importance of the discovery, or rather rectification of the geography of Africa in these parts, and also show the great accuracy with which Ptolemy delineated its general features. It is true that he carried the heads of the branches of the White River eight degrees too far south ; * Another voyage has been performed up the White River in 1841 and 1842. Two French Gentlemen accompanied this expedition. In their notes and map by M. Jomard, they give the remarkable bend of the river in nearly the parallel of 9 degrees Latitude. This is not indicated in the official account of the first voyage, and their notes are not quite clear and explicit on the subject. But nevertheless, though I have some doubts on the subject, I have adopted their delineation of this part of the River. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [71] but in this he was doubtless misled by giving, as others have done after him, and yet do, too great a distance to days' journeys, and being without any other mode of mea- surement or information from the opposite side to check the reckoning. But he has preserved the relative distances very accurately. Thus he says, the Blue River, or Astapus, rises in lake Coloe or Dembea, situated in 69o east longi- tude, and under the equator. The western branch of the White River, he says, springs from a lake in 57° east lon- gitude and 6° south latitude ; and the eastern from another lake in east longitude 65°, and in south latitude 7° ; and these unite in south latitude 2°, and east longitude 62° the (Greek,) or 60° Latin translation ; that is, in the one case 2° to the east of the meridian of Alexandria, and in the other on that meridian. The reader has only to inspect the Map to perceive how accurately all the relative positions as to the sources of the two great branches of the Nile, and the distances from them and the position of the united stream of the Bahr-el-abiad as regards its bearing from Egypt, are preserved. Finding this ancient geographer so accu- rate in his comparative delineation as to distances, we may safely place reliance on his accounts regarding the surface of the country around the sources of that river which he con- sidered the real Nile. He states, that it is very moun- tainous, and that these mountains were covered with snow. Bruce in a great measure corroborates this when he states that the mountains of KafFa to the south of Enarea are covered with snow.* That acute and intelligent traveller states most pointedly in his notes, written in Af- rica and on the banks of the Bahr-el-abiad, 'that that stream "rose in the country to ^/ie^owM of Enarea." The Habahia, * Bruce, vol. vii. p. 105. [72] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. the earh' source and course of which we know, runs where he states the Bahr-el-abiad rises. An inspection of the Map will show that the Habahia may be the source of the Nile. The colour of the water being white would serve to confirm this opinion, as drawing its supplies from similar calcareous ridges ; as the Zebee of a like colour, and from the cause mentioned, actually does. It is left to future dis- covery and to the geographical reader to decide whether Bruce or Ptolemy is most correct ; but hazarding an opinion, I would say that both are right, that the Habahia is one branch of the Bahr-el-abiad, while Ptolemy considered that the branch rising furthest to the south had the un- doubted claim to be considered the parent stream. The elevation of the bed of the Tacazze, and that of the Abawi above the level of the sea, have been given ; the former from Ruppell, and the latter from Dr. Beke ;* but it would appear that thev are under some mistake, Bruce estimated that the sources of the Abawi were 10,340 feet above the level of the sea ; and if so there are certainly neither cataracts nor rapids in the stream of the Abawi from its sources to the point where Dr. Beke first crossed it to account for 7340 feet, the difi'erence of elevation in the comparative short space of 250 miles. Bruce also calcu- lated that the plain of Senaar was about 5000 feet above * See p. 35. Lake Dembea, or Zana, is 5732 French feet above the level of the sea, and Gondar according to Ruppell 1232 French feet above the level of the Lake. The diflference of the level of the Abawi near the juuction of the Djirama and the Ford of Fiiri is, according to Dr. Beke, 100 feet. Considering the elevation of Lake Zana, as given by Ruppell, the bed of the Abaw near its junction with the Djimma must be higher than Dr. Beke has made it ; while the descent which the Nile has from Lake Zana to Senaar (cataracts included) would give an elevation to the plain of Senaar to the extent stated bj' Bruce. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOITw [73] the level of the sea. In this elevation he seems to be borne out by all but unerring guides. Though it was the hottest period of the year when he was at Senaar, yet he felt it cool, even when fully clothed, and could walkabout in the sun without inconvenience. This indicates a very con- siderable elevation. This is also confirmed by the account which Mahoraed Ali gives of the climate of Fazuclo, namely, that the air was exceedingly pure and bracing. The elevation of Fazuclo above Senaar cannot be much, because the Nile between the one place and the other has a placid and easy current. The climate also which the Egyptian officers found at the bifurcation of the Bahar-el- Abiad, coupled with the extreme gentleness of the cur- rent of that stream, all indicate a very considerable eleva- tion of every part from the junction of the Blue and the White Rivers inclusive, upwards or southwards. Browne's meteorological observations at Darfur shew us that Cobbe, the capital of that country, must be an elevated place ; for during the months of January and February, the thermo- meter during the day ranged from 50,^ to 60o, and was at times as low as 49° in the middle of the day. Bruce was also told at Senaar that to the south or south-west of Cobbe, snow was to be seen on the mountains. All these facts point out that this interior part of eastern Africa must be very elevated, and that the Nile to the Mediterranean must have a greater descent from Abyssinia than the observations of Dr. Ruppell and Dr. Beke would give it. The bed of the Tacazze, at the point in Samen where it turns west, is, according to Dr. Ruppell, 2812 French feet above the level of the sea. From that point to its junction with the Nile, 200 miles below Khartoum — the latter place 150 below Senaar — is about 500 miles, and without either rapids e [74] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR, cataracts, or any very rapid current. The elevation of the Abawi, where Dr. Beke crossed it, is, he states, in round numbers 3000 English feet. From that point to Senaar is fully 400 miles, in which space the river has at least 400 feet of cataracts, with a considerable velocity in the current. From Senaar to Khartoum is 150 miles, and from Khartoum to the junction with the Tacazze about 200 miles more, in all 750 miles. From these facts alone, it is clear that either Dr. Beke or Dr. Ruppel are wrong in their calculations. The difference between them, as applied to the elevation of the bed of the Nile, cannot be less than 2500 feet. The correction of the geography of the course of the Bahr-el-Abiad places before us other results equally im- portant. It discloses to our view the course and the sources of the great river Zaire or Congo, with something like an adequate space for the formation of a river of that great magnitude which the Zaire is known to be ; and it en- ables us to apply with accuracy the accounts which have been received with regard to the country called Donga, and the river or rivers of Bahr Kulla, and the Vallis Garaman- tica of Ptolemy, which have hitherto been so strangely per- vei"ted and attempted to be applied in a manner which shewed plainly that the application was incorrect. Darfur, or rather the capital thereof, Cobbe, is, accor- ding to Browne, in I4o 10' north latitude, and 28° 8' east longitude. It is an elevated country. To the south it is very fertile, and called Said, like the productive southern provinces of Egypt, To the south-west and west the country becomes very mountainous ; and from no important rivers being found among them, we collect that the ele- vation is above the level from whence the springs which form rivers usually flow. Beyond Dar Ruma west, however, GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [75] as the country descends to the kingdom of Dar Saley, rivers become numerous, and so also to the south and south- west in the latter direction, as Donga and Dar Kulla are approached. The distance to Donga and Bahr Kulla from Cobbe is stated to be from 40 to 60 days' journey, in a bearing south-west, or about south-west by south. Donga is 20 days' journey, about east- south- east from the southern extremity of the empire of Bornou, and ten days' journey from Abou Telfain on the southern frontier of the king- dom of Dar Saley or Wara. This place is about 120 miles south- south-west of Abou Shareb, which is again five days' journey from Wara. Donga is also stated to be thirty days'* (one account. Major Rennells, says forty days') journey from Shillook or Shilluck, that is the pas- sage of the Bahr-el-abiad, El Aice, at the boundary of the Shillook, according as the boundary of that people stood about fifty years ago. Dar-el-Nahas at the copper mines was twenty-two and a half days' journey south, one quar- ter west from Cobbe, exactly as laid down in the Map ; the journey made good being estimated at the rate of twelve geographical miles per day. These facts considered we have the true position of Donga and the sources, not of the Bahar-el-Abiad, but of the great river Zaire, or Congo, which it thus appears is the river Bahar Kulla running south-west. The former country Donga gives us also the Vallis Ga7-amantica, or great "dale or valley" so promi- nently mentioned by Ptolemy. It must have been a verv re- markable valley, or dale, or low country, to make him take such prominent notice of it, and here we find it in the very position, especially as to latitude, in which he places it. Kulla, or KoUa, we now know accurately designates a low * Browne, p. 473. e 2 [76] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. country in contradistinction to high lands, and the river Bahar Kulla means only the great river which traverses that low country. Now let us for a moment attend to the accounts which we have of this portion of Africa, as they have been derived from two quarters opposite to each other, the north and the south, and wholly unconnected. " The country of Dar Kulla," says Browne, p. 449, " is for a great part of the year wet and marshy, the heat is excessive, and the people remark that there is no summer" — that is, no regular dry season. This alone indicates its position to be near the Equator. Its people are partly negroes, and partly of a copper colour. They have many considerable rivers which are never dry, and which they cross in canoes, made from large trees cut down and hollowed out. * The expression " never dry," as stated by Burckhardt, is a strong Arabic mode of designating a fertile country abounding in water, and having large rivers. The road to Donga from Cobbe is, says Browne, p. 473, very mountain- ous, and the river in it rises from forty distinct hills ; a common African mode of expressing a great number of springs and tributaries. It is ten days' journey south from Abou Telfain on the frontier of Bergoo, or Dar Saley. Burck- hardt received accounts exactly similar. The route to Don- ga and Dar Kulla is by the sources of the Misselad, or river Gir, found in the very district where Ptolemy had placed it. Next to these, let us attend to the accounts which on the south side have been glanced at with regard to this country. First, all the Portuguese early accounts and maps represent the Congo and the chief branch of the Nile as flowing from the same districts in Central Africa. * Browne, p. 308. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [77] Secondly, Tackey tells us that the Congo was reported to issue in several streams from a large lake of mud, which lake was from the distance given nearly under the Equator ; in other words, that the Congo came from a country wet and marshy, and that it was formed by many streams in its early course, for this is the correct account when strip- ped of its African phraseology. Thirdly, he met near the cataracts, and liberated, a Mandingo man slave, who said that he came from a country to the north-east, called M'Intola, situated upon a river nearly as large as the Zaire ; and that he had been three moons on his journey, travelling sometimes bv land and sometimes bv water in comina- from it. Mandingo is well known to be round the sources of the Niger, and at an immense distance from this portion of Africa. The pronunciation of the name of the country from which the man came, M'Intola, shews that Tuckev mistook the other word, and that it should have been pronounced M'Jndonga. In this. Donga is readily recog- nised, the road to it, the river that flows in it, and that M'Intola is a district in it. Other men told Tuckey that they had been to a distance of thirty days' journey north- east ; that there the country was very mountainous ; that in their road they crossed many rivers, some in canoes, and others at fords. Fourthly, and what is more to the point, the river began to rise immediately above the cata- racts on the first of September. Now about the tenth of August the sun would have about 15° north declination, or four degrees from the northern limits of Donga, at which time the rain would commence to the southward of the mountains on the frontier of that country. After ten days, and as the sun became vertical about the twenty-fifth of August, the streams in the upper and nearly mid- [78] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. die course would be greatly moved ; and from that period they would all be flooded deeply, and the water would de- scend rapidly to the south. Allowing for the turnings and windings of the river, and considering the distance which the water had to run from the point, completely sub- jected to the inundation, a distance of about 500 miles is made out ; and allowing at the rate of fifty-four miles per day for the progress of the stream southward, the rise of the Congo would just take place on the first of September at the point where Tuckey first perceived it. At first the rise of the river would necessarily be slow and gradual, but after- ward it would be more rapid as Tuckey saw it ; for at tall- tree point he found it had in the short space of sixteen days risen seven feet, a proof that it did not descend from a lake, otherwise the rise could not have been so quick. It would, it is considered, be superfluous to say more to establish the point. The magnitude of the river where Tuckey turned back, 280 miles from its mouth, the breadth of the stream from three to four miles, its great depth (many fathoms), and a current fully three miles an hour at the very commence- ment of the inundation, and the time of the commencement of that inundation, establish from invincible data, that the Zaire or Congo descends from a high northern latitude, and that the rivers in Donga and Dar Kulla must form its early stream. The reader who wishes further information regarding the parts of Africa adjacent to those which have been here described and of Africa beyond the limits of the present Maps, may consult for that purpose my Geographical Sur- vey of Africa, and general map of Africa : the latter pubhsh- ed by Mr. Arrowsmith in 1840. With a few general remarks, we shall conclude these GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [79] observations. The character of the modern Abyssinians appears, frona the accounts which reach us, to be a strange compound of meekness and ferocity, devotion and bar- barity, such as is rarely to be found among men. Thus when engaged in war, they will never fight on the Sab- bath, and always have solemn religious service and ordi- nances administered by the Priests before beginning a battle. They are regular and devout in their private fami- lies and devotions. Of this. Salt gives several, but es- pecially the following interesting specimen, which took place in the house of the Governor of Dixan, on his arrival at that place. "At the break of day," says he, "the well known sound of the Baharnegash's voice calling his familv to praver, excited my attention, when I immediately ran and joined his pai'ty. At this moment, the interval of four years, which had elapsed since my former visit, appeared like a dream. The prayers which he recited consisted of the same words, were pronounced in the same tone, and were offered up with the same fervour of devotion, which I had before so often listened to with dehght ; and when the ceremony was concluded, the good old man delivered out his orders for the day, with a patri- archal simplicity and dignity of manner, that was really affecting to contemplate."* All this is very pleasing ; but on the other hand, when we consider some of their punish- ments, and these exercised upon captive enemies, such as mutilating their dead bodies, in a manner that delicacy forbids us to describe, and flaying them alive, and then stuffing the skins, which operation they call making a bottle, we are lost in wonder at the inconsistency and debasement of human nature. The Gallas are equally * Salt. p. 2.10. [80] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. cruel, and more generally so. In war they massacre alike the resisting and the unresisting, young and old, male and female, ripping up the latter who are with child, an Asiatic custom, which, with other Asiatic customs, would lead us to believe that their ancestors came originally from Asia. Abyssinia must have undergone many, and strange, and distressing vicissitudes of fortune. At a very early period of history it was a powerful and enlightened empire. We find one of its Queens placing herself in power and knowledge as an equal to Solomon. It was most cer- tainly a Queen of that country which visited Jeru-salem during the reign of that Prince. Our Saviour calls her by way of eminence, the Queen of the South. He who made the world, must know correctly the position of every part of it ; and it may be remarked, that the centre of Abyssinia is due south from Jerusalem. Subsequent to that period the Abyssinians had conquered a great part of Arabia. At an early period they were converted to the Christian faith, which they have continued to hold ever since, under the most trying and disadvantageous circumstances. They commanded the Red Sea, and with it the trade between Eastern Africa and the East Indies ; with Egypt, Asia Minor, and Europe, around the shores of the Mediterra- nean. This commerce was chiefly carried on by the port of Zeilah, but more especially by the port of Assab, within the Straits of Babelmandeb, at which place the ruins of large buildings are yet to be found. From this port the road into Abyssinia was direct by Manadelli, which Alvaraez still found in his day a great rendezvous for merchants from the quarters mentioned. On the rise of the Mahom- edan power in Arabia, Assab was wrested from Abyssinia, GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [81] and from that period her power began to dechne ; but the impenetrable nature of her country rendered her long safe from any serious and overwhelming attack from that rest- less and fanatic people. How far Christianity penetrat- ed into Africa during the height of Abyssinian power, it is difficult to say ; but we are certain it was to a great ex- tent ; for the remains of it, and that too in considerable strength, are to this day found in Enarea, Kaffa, and places adjacent. The rise and progress of Mahomedan power, while it gradually circumscribed the dominion of Abyssinia in the south, the east, and the north, cut her off at the same time, during a period of many centuries, from the rest of the Christian world. Still, as late as the thirteenth century, we find the Christian Kings of Nubia contending and negociating with the proudest Mahome- dan Sovereigns, till at last they were finally and complete- ly overthrown, and Christianity extinguished in Nubia, the wretched inhabitants flying south to Abyssinia, and into the deepest recesses of the African continent ; in which, however, they were not long hidden from their restless enemies, who followed, found them out, and conquered them. The ruins of Gambarou, on the Yeou, are well known to be the remains of a city of considerable impor- tance, formerly belonging to Christians, till it was ruined and laid desolate by the Fallatah ; and to this day there are in Goober the offspring of Copts expatriated from Egypt, in order to escape the ferocity and intolerance of the early Arabian conquerors. These people are very fair, as much so as the ancient Egyptians. That the power and name of Abyssinia penetrated dec'i) into, and spread widely over Africa, is a fact that cannot be doubted. It was known according to the earlv Portuguese [82] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. navigators at Benin, then a powerful kingdom. This fact has been denied, but without any just reason, and with- out reflecting that the name of Abyssinia is at this day known even to Timbuctoo, Sego, and the sources of the Niger ; pilgrims from all these places in their route hence to Mecca passing by Senaar, and the northern boundary of Abyssinia, on their way to Souakim. In their wars with the Mahomedans the Abyssinians in the decline of their power, like the Romans when in a similar state, engaged auxiliaries among their barbarous neighbours to aid in these wars. The Abyssinian auxilia- ries on this occasion were the Gallas. These soon saw the weakness of both the Abyssinian and Mahomedan power in the eastern portion of Africa, and made their country- men acquainted with it. The consequence was a general movement of that people against both. They first attacked Abyssinia about the year 1559, immediately after her bloody and fatal wars with the Mahomedans under Ma- homed Gragne. They bore down all opposition ; swarm after swarm was cut off in the fearful and easily defended defiles of Abyssinia; but swarm succeeding swarm ad- vanced from the interior, and at length finally and firmly established themselves in the country, and conquered and kept possession of several of the finest provinces of the empire, subduing at the same time the Mahomedans' on the coasts of the Indian Ocean, or limiting their dominions in a few places to narrow slips on the sea coast. These tribes of Gallas came from a country in the interior of Af- rica, somewhere about the fifth to the tenth degree of south latitude, in which part of Africa all early writers agree that the population are not negroes, but comparatively fair, as we find the genuine Gallas really are. What mighty GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [83] movement of some other savage nation in Africa caused the general movement of the Gallas to the north-east, we know not ; but as in Asia and in Europe in the early cen- turies of the Christian era, so in Africa it was probablv the attack of some other whole nation of barbarians on the Gallas, that drove these people as a whole and in resistless force against the comparatively civilized, indeed we mav say, the civilized empire of Abyssinia. When the christianized Roman empire became corrupted and debased, when they forsook Uhe God which made them, and lightly esteemed the Rock of their salvation, the weapons of His indignation for severe and just chastise- ment were at hand in the barbarous nations around, and in the vicinity of that empire. Commissioned by the Al- mighty, they were impelled against the Roman, then the civilized world, with a fearful and irresistible impetuosity ; nation succeeding nation, people more barbarous than a pre- ceding people, in the strong metaphorical language of Scrip- ture, with the fierceness and violence of a great moun- tain burning loith fire cast into the sea, bearing before them degradation, misery and desolation, lamentations, and mourning, and woe, with general darkness and ignorance in their train. But civilization and Christianity had been planted and rooted, and could not be eradicated ; the fierce conqueror yielded obedience to the laws of the Redeemer, and Christianity rose from this scene of ruin brighter and stronger than ever. As in Europe, so will it be in Asia and in Africa. In the latter country, when Christian Aby- sinia had utterly corrupted herself — when she too forsook the God that made her, and lightly esteemed the Rock of her salvation, then the weapons of His indignation in the nation of the barbarous Gallas were at hand to punish and [84] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. to chastise her. They were impelled against the corrupted empire with fearful and irresistible force, and there is only wanting the pen of the continuous and accurate historian to delineate to us fully the havoc and ruin, the deplorable scenes of misery and ruin, lamentations , and mourning, and woe, which the march and the conquests of these barba- rians brought upon the Abyssinian empire. But as in Europe so in Abyssinia, Christianity with civilization hav- ing been planted could not be eradicated. The former still rears its head ; many of its conquerors ; bent their necks and their minds to its sway and its precepts ; and as their power, and also the power of the early and fanatic Mahom- edan, is completely broken and exhausted in this portion of Africa, so Christianity and civilization will yet rear their heads and flourish, and spread in triumph over a wider range than ever they had before done in Africa, and until the name and the praise of the Redeemer are heard in every country, on every mountain, in every valley, and by every stream in Africa — the Nile and the Niger, the Zaire and the Zambezi, being made as well acquainted with the name of the true God and the Saviour, as the banks of the Jordan, the Thames, the Rhine, the Danube, and the Po. The moment to commence and to accelerate this great work as regards Africa is the present hour. Every thing is auspicious and encouraging to undertake and to go on with the work. The strength and power and energy of both Mahomedanism and Paganism in Africa, especially in those parts of it more immediately under consideration, are broken and exhausted, and can no longer venture, even if they had the will, as formerly, to trample upon Christian power or Christian messengers. The road is comparatively open, and the field is comparatively clear ; the cause is GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [85] noble, the prize to be obtained honourable and great. The best interests of the human race, to a very great extent, is dependent upon African improvement and civiHzation. The interests of Great Britain in a more especial manner, both commercial, colonial, and political, are interwoven with, and dependent upon, the improvement and prosperity of Africa, to an extent, in fact, almost incredible, and such as few can believe who have not deeply considered the mat- ter, but which it is impossible to enter upon here. Look what the present Viceroy of Egypt has done ! When threatened by all Europe in 1839, and when they were about to put their threats into execution, he, on the plains of Fazuclo ordered that expedition, the surprising results of which have been previously considered, and while he was contending against all Europe, the officers to which he had intrusted the execution of the work, went and accom- plished the noble object, the exploration of by far the greater portion of the long-hidden Bahr-el-abiad. On the plains of Fazuclo also he erected a city, named after himself, and which will rapidly rise into importance. Khartoum, which only a few years ago was composed of a few miser- able straw huts, is now a considerable city, well laid out, and supplied and inhabited by different races of men, among whom are many Christians. When Mahomed was there in July 1839, these Christians came to solicit him to give them a piece of ground on which they might erect a church. "You shall not only have the ground you want," said Maho- med, " but I will assist you with the funds you may require to build and to complete it." This is noble — this opens up the dawn of a bright day to Africa, if judiciously attended to, and pcrseveringly looked after. But this is not all. When at Fazuclo he put an end to the Slave Trade in all his do- [86] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. minions in that quarter of Africa, and counselled and ad- vised the native princes around his provinces to do the same, and to turn their attention to cultivate the soil, and sell its products instead of selling men. They listened to his counsels with attention, and promised that they would follow them out ; and he is a man who will not forget to make them keep their word. What Mahomed Ali has done and does, cannot Eng- land also perform ? Most assuredly she can, if she will ; and it is as much her interest as it is the interest of Mahomed Ali, not only to see Africa improved and cultivated and civilized, but further, that she should have a most active and immediate hand in the work. A few more men with the energy and judgment of Mahomed Ali, and a few more judicious, patient, and humble and pious Christian teach- ers like Messrs. Isenberg and Krapf in Africa, would do more to civilize, enlighten, Christianize, and improve her, than navies stationed round her coasts, or rude com- merce, such as the palm oil trade, could do in thousands of years. Can England not find such, and also the means to assist and to support them ? * * The French have lately purchased two stations in the Bay of Am- phila, at Ayth or Edd, and another place. The British in 1840, ob- tained a settlement on two of the islands in the Bay of Tajoura. Both nations, it wo'old thus appear, are directing their ^•iews to Ab«sinia. POSTSCRIPT. After the preceding pages were written and in the hands of the printer, further accounts were received from Dr. Beke. He was at Yaush on the 25th of November, 1842. He had explored the whole provinces of Gojam and the countiy to the neighbourhood of the cataract of Alata, and also the provinces of Damot and Agowmedre and places around the sources of the Blue Nile. The province of Gojam is a pastoral country, consisting of elevated plains and very high mountains, without trees; and intersected bv numerous small streams. The ridges of mountains to the east and the south-east of Geesh rise into the regions of frost and snow. On the 4th of June a very violent storm of hail was felt at Amwatta. The hailstones were very large. Several people and many cattle were killed by them. The hail lay on the ground for three days before it was melted by the heat of the sun, a proof that the country is greatly elevated. Damot is both a pastoral and an agricultural country, with extensive forests and numerous small rivers. Agowmedre to the westward, south-west, and north-west of the sources of the Nile, is very mountainous, the hills generally volcanic, but the soil in many places fertile. The Abawi, or Blue Nile, at the ford of Furi is from seventy to eighty yards broad, five feet deep, and the current from two to three miles per hour. Dr. Beke pointedly states [88] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. that the people dweUing to the south-west of KafFa trade with the west coast of Africa, and that one of their arti- cles of commerce is salt. His journeys confirm in the most striking manner the accuracy of the accounts which Bruce had obtained regarding the countries and rivers to the south, to the east, and to the west of the sources of the Nile. Indeed without the assistance of the notes and information given and obtained by Bruce, Dr. Beke's last journey through northern Damot and Agowmedre could not have been laid down in the accompanying Maps. At the capital of Mettakel the Shangallas who came to attend it had never before seen a white man. Dr. Beke was con- sequently an object of great curiosity. The whole country westward from the meridian of Gon- dar to the Blue Nile has been delineated from a careful perusal of Poncet's travels in Abyssinia, but especially from a careful examination of the last edition of Bruce's work, and the notes taken by that traveller when on the spot, and inserted by his editor in different parts of the different volumes. These important notes have, it would appear, been hitherto wholly overlooked. Hence the errors which have crept into the geography of this portion of Africa. His account of the country between the Tacazze and Gondar is fully as correct as RuppeU's, and his account of the rivers near Gondar is much more clear and satisfactory. He also states most pointedly the fol- lowing curious and important point ; namely, that the Angrab, which passes round Gondar, runs first through the low country of Dembea, and then northward to the Ta- cazze, and the more I consider the subject the more I am inclined to consider this account to be correct. Ruppel's silence does not invalidate the account ; for in that direction GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [89] he was only as far as Azzazo, and does not say one word about any rivers at or near that place. The account which Bruce gives is contained in the narrative of his journey from Gondar to the sources of the Nile. Before coming to Azzazo, about seven miles from Gondar, he states that he passed first the small river Shimfa, and next the Dum- aza, larger than the other, and on the banks of which latter stream Azzazo is situated. " The Dumaza," says he, " is a very clear and limpid stream running briskly over a small bed of pebbles : both this river and the Shimfa come from Woggora in the north-west ; they pass the hill of Koscam called Debra Tzai (mountain of the sun), join below Azzazo, and traversing the flat country of Dambea they meet the Angrab, which passes by Gondar, and with it fall into the Tacazze or Atbara."* Bruce most pointedly and repeatedly states in the notes alluded to, that the Bahr-el-abiad had no great western branch ; that it required none, but that the parent stream took its rise to the south of Enarea. For the account of the river which passes by Kachina- ara and joins the Chadda, the writer of this is indebted to Captain W. Cook, one of the Commissioners who accom- panied the late Niger Expedition. The account he received was from an African Mallam or Priest. I cannot however refrain from expressing my opinion that the Mallam has re- versed the position of this river Fo Kakchi, and that the fact is the river comes from Mount Thala, a ptirt of the Man- dara range, and flows into the Chadda on the north side instead of the south side. Still the Mallam may be correct. The point which Captain Beecroft reached in the chief branch of the Formosa, in Mr. Jamieson's vessel the * Bruce, vol. v. p. 239. [90] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. Ethiope Steamer in 1840, is distinctly marked in the Map. At this point Captain Beecroft calculated that he was only about twenty miles from Aboh or Eboe ; and where he turned back the stream was fifty yards broad, five fathoms deep, and the current upwards of three knots per hour, and this toward the close of the dry season. The banks of the river were perfectly level, and covered with long grass or reeds. No high land could be seen in any direc- tion. The other branch of the Formosa, which joins more to the westward, also had a strong current and four fathoms water at the extreme point reached. The War- ree branch had never less than five fathoms water, and this at the close of the dry season. The banks of this branch were high, dry, cultivated, and populous. Captain Cook saw the branch which runs off to the westward about twenty-five miles above Aboh. It was about 1000 yards broad, and across the stream eight to ten fathoms deep, with a small island in the middle. This was the state of this branch in the flood. It appeared to be as large as the branch running south, or the Nun. Interesting accounts have just been received from two Missionaries, one belonging to the Church Missionary So- ciety, and the other to the Wesleyan Society. These men had been invited by the Chiefs ruling the country to the north-east of Badagry and to the north of Benin to visit them. They had penetrated about ninety miles into the country in the direction of north-east from Badagry, and were well received. The capital of one state at the dis- tance mentioned contains about 40,000 inhabitants. The country is described as populous, exceedingly fine and fertile, and very healthy. This capital is named Abbekuta, governed by a Chief GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [91] named Sodeke. The population consists of the Egba tribe of the Akus united. Abbekuta is nine days' journey from the Niger, and situated on a river named Ogu, which joins the river of Lagos, to which latter place it is navigable in canoes during the rains. The capital appears to be on the east side of the river, here of considerable breadth, but very shallow early in the dry season. The town is situated upon a hill, from which the view is very fine, and the river runs through a fine valley, with hills on either hand. The bottom of the river is sandy and rocky, and no miasma around its banks. To the eastward are two large towns, called Jai and Abada; and at seven days' journey distant, is Illome in the Eyo country, and two days' journey from the Niger. Abbekuta seems to be a great thoroughfare for the people of Huassa on their way to the coast, and all travellers are here treated kindly. Sodeke expressed the greatest anxiety for Missionaries to come and reside with them, promising them every support and protection. The streets of Abbekuta are narrow and irregular. Soon after leaving the coast, the country began to ascend and hills to make their appearance. The time occupied in travelling from Badagry to Abbekuta at a brisk rate was about thirty hours. The necessaries of life are abundant in the capital. Horses, sheep, goats, cows, fowls, and pigeons are in great abundance. The people manufacture leather of va- rious kinds and articles of leather, saddles, shoes, slippers, and cushions ; and of iron they manufacture bits for their horses, stirrup irons, clasp knives, hoes, and bill-hooks in imitation of English. About half way between Badagry and Abbekuta, a considerable town, named Adu, lay one day's journey distant from the road, eastward it is supposed ; and by this town a river called Adu (the Doo probably of [92] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. our maps and the same as the Ogu) ran to the Lagos. Jaboo seems to be to the east or to the south-east of Abbekuta. A very interesting letter from a Medical Gentleman who has lately visited the Gaboon River has just come into the hands of the writer of this Memoir. He gives a very fa- vourable account of the disposition of the people, and the very considerable advance which they have made in civili- zation. Their houses are neat and comfortable, and their towns laid out in regular streets. They treat their women with kindness and equality, and sit and eat, and converse with them at the same table. They are fond of English customs and dress, and carry on considerable traffic with English and French vessels. In old Calabar a great deal of business is also carried on. The Chief has about 200 large canoes engaged in the palm-oil trade and other des- criptions of traffic with the interior parts. He is also deter- mined to set his people to cultivate the soil, and calls for people to instruct them. The English Language is gene- rally and fluently spoken in this quarter, and their accounts kept in it. In reference to the matter stated in page 64 about a river entering the sea in north latitude two degrees on the east coast of Africa, as reported by Captain Harris, and published in the Bombay Times, it is necessary to observe that Abulfeda states* that the river named after the town enters the sea " near Makdishu," or Magadoxo. His words are : f " It has a large river like the Nile of Egypt, which swells in the summer season. It is said to be a branch of the Nile which issues from Lake Kaura (Zana) and runs into the Indian Sea near Makdishu." The Arabic ♦See Macqueen's Geographical Survey of Africa, 1840. p. 246. t See Lee's Batouta, p. 55. GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [93] expression branch of the Nile, is now well understood only to mean that the river rises in the same district of Africa that gives birth to the Blue River, or the Abawi. All the early Portuguese navigators and maps acknowledge and insert this river, and mention the same particulars con- cerning it. In a Map of Africa constructed by J. Senex, from the observations of the Royal Societies of London and Paris, and dedicated to Sir Isaac Newton, and com- piled, as regards these parts of Africa, from the Portu- guese materials, we find this river laid down roughly, but by no means very inaccurately, its source near Gumar, which place is to the south-east of Bargamo, and its mouth a little to the north of Magadoxo, exactly in two degrees north latitude. A few months ago Messrs. Krapf and Isenberg wrote the Society from Zeilah that the large river called Wabhe or Webbe ran to the south of Hurrur southward to the sea at Magadoxo, and that there was a caravan route from Zeilah to that place which occupied a journey of two months. Batouta mentions this caravan route, and gives the same time and distance from Zeilah to Magadoxo. Bruce lays down this river as the Webbe. Salt, in the valuable chart of the east coast of Africa and map inserted in his last voyage, quarto, page 13, in 1814, lays down this river under the name of the Webbe and all its early branches very fairly. One descends from the east of the Aroosee Galla, and another, the longest, from the country east of the sources of the Magar and south of Gurague, exactly as I hnd I have placed them in the Map from accounts obtained by Mr. Krapf, and also the accounts which Captain Harris had received from him when at Ankobar, and inserted in the last number of the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society. Salt brings [94] GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. the river to the sea a little to the south of Magadoxo, in which he is probably correct. Captain Cook, who was at Magadoxo and close upon the coast to a distance of six- teen miles to the north of the place, informs me that he could see no river entering the sea within that space ; but he added that he was informed a large river ran to the westward a short distance to the north of Brava. If this account is correct, the river in question may enter the sea between the Juba and Brava. The late Mr. Arrowsmith in his Map of Africa has a river near and to the south of Magadoxo ; the river of Juba, and also a river at Doaro. There seems to be a river and a province called Doaro in the south, and that this province has been confounded with Dowarro on the north. Of the well-known existence, therefore, of a large river near Magodoxo, and its course from the north, there can be no doubt. While correcting these pages for the press, a letter has been received from Captain Haines at Aden, dated June 2nd, giving some important and specific infor- mation regarding the magnitude of a river in this quarter. In consequence of the information which he had received from Captain Harris he sent Lieutenant Christopher of the Indian Navy to seek for and to examine it. This officer found and went up the river 130 miles, and found it throughout this distance from 200 to 300 feet broad, and from sixteen to sixty feet deep, a clear meandering stream. The country around its banks was very fine, beautiful, and pretty weU cultivated, and the population intelligent, friendly, and civil. They stated that the stream was navi- gable upwards to a great distance, and that both it and the Juba joined the Gojob ; in other words, that the sources of the parent stream of both rivers came from the same por- GEOGRAPHICAL MEMOIR. [95] tion of Africa to the north ; for this mode of joining and se- parating rivers is a very common mode of Africans, but especially Arabs, stating such matters. The letter from Captain Haines gives no name to the river, nor does he state the exact place in latitude where it enters the sea, but merely that it does so to the north of the Juba, which latter is very nearly under the equinoctial line. As but few points in the interior of Africa have been fixed by correct astronomical observations, it is to be dis- tinctly understood that the accompanying Maps have gene- rally been constructed on the data afforded by days' journeys ; and that several rivers, especially the middle portions of some of these, have been drawn in the supposed general bear- ings of the great valleys through which these must flow. London, July 31, 1843. JOUENALS, &c. &c. PART I. JOURNEY FROM ZEILA TO ANKOBAR. CHAPTER I. DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA — COSTUME AND FOOD OF THE INHAniTANTS — MESSAGE FROM THE GOVERNOR — DEPARTURE FROM ZEILA — ARRIVAL AT TADJURRA — INTERVIEW WITH THE SULTAN — DESCRIPTION OF TADJURRA — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING CAMELS AND MULES— VISIT FROM THE SULTAN — DETENTION AT TADJURRA— INTENSE HEAT OF THE WEATHER — NOTICES RESPECTING ENAREA, SIDAMA, AND GURAGUK — DISCUSSION WITH A TIGRE MERCHANT RESPECTING ISLAMISM. April 2, 1839, Zeila. — Our sojourn in this place, 1 hope, is now over. If it please God, we shall set sail to-morrow in our small boat, and proceed onward to Tadjurra. Hitherto the Lord has helped us. The Governor here has treated us kindly. The first cvcn- B 2 DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA. ing of our visit, he sent us a present of a sheep ; and this morning, a buck. He offered us also two houses; one as a dwelling, and the other for a store house. Besides this, he gave us a letter of introduction to the Governor of Tadjurra, and tendered every other assis- tance we might need. In return for this he only re- quired, that we should give him written recommenda- tions to Captain Haines, Hassan Effendi, and to all English travellers and captains of vessels. These we wrote for him ; and on delivering them, apologized for not being able to offer him an adequate present. How- ever, he then asked for something, observing that his object was not gain : that he did not want anything of much value, but requested it only that he might be re- spected by his people. We examined our baggage, and finding a good caftan belonging to the Rev. J. L. Krapf, a silk handkerchief and a box of lucifers, we gave them to him. He looked with indifference at these presents, and repeated that he did not care about having these things, but only for our friendship ; and that he preferred good recommendations to presents. Thus far he appeared to understand his interest. We are very anxious to know what will be the consequences of this visit. From what we have seen, we think we may conclude that the time is not far distant, when this place will be accessible to every European, and an entrance be open from hence to Shoa and to the in- terior of Africa. Zeila is an old town, and was formerly of greater DESCRIPTION OF ZEILA. 3 importance ; but at present it is, for the most part, in rnins. It is surrounded by walls, and has, on the land side, seven pieces of ordnance, pointed towards the Somals ; with whom the town has continual inter- course. It appears, however, that they are not on good terms ; as every mission into the country for a supply of water, is escorted by a party of soldiers. The town consists of about a hundred straw-huts, and eight stone houses. We are not able to ascertain the precise number of inhabitants, or of houses; but suppose the town may contain a mixed population of eight hundred souls; the greater part of whom are Somals, with some Dana- kils and Arabs. The language of the Somals appears to have some affinity to that of the Gallas ; w'hile that of the Danakils is the same as that of the Shohos, with a little dialectic difference : the nation is the same. Some understand and speak the Amharic also. Considerable intercourse is kept up with Horror. Several small vessels have just returned from Berbera. The market, w^hich is held in that place, and is the only cause of such a concourse of people frequenting it, is now closed, on account of the approaching rains. It appears that the bad quality of the water is a principal reason why no houses or fixed habitations have been erected there. I was led to this conjecture by the arrival of a small boat this evening, belonging to Shermarke, a Somal Chief of that country, and a friend of the Eng- lish, which had come to fetch water. On asking why they came for water, they said that the water of Ber- B 2 4 THE SOMALS. bera was so brackish^ that it could hardly be used for drinking. . On our arrival here, a great crowd of people, chiefly children, gathered about us : the good reception, how- ever, wliich we met with from the Governor, kept them in order. On the following morning, about fifty armed soldiers accompanied us ; and whenever we were in town, a soldier usually preceded us, in order to prevent our being annoyed, until at length the people seemed to have lost their curiosity to see us. During our stay, however, we resided on board the vessel. There were eight boats in the harbour, two of which belonged to the brother-in-law of Sheik Taib, in Aden. The Hais of one of these boats had seen us last year in Massowah, on our return from Abyssinia. This harbour is very bad, there being sand banks near. Since last Lord's Day, a brig has been observed off the port ; but it could not be ascertained to what nation it belonged : she seemed as though she wanted to make the harbour, but could not. Yesterday evening, three guns were heard from the island of Saad-ed-deen ; in conse- quence of which, the Governor despatched a boat thither to-day, in order to look out for the vessel, and bring her in. In the afternoon the boat returned : they had seen the brig in the direction of Tadjurra ; but were unable to reach her, or learn any particulars. The Governor of this place is a man not quite thirty years old, with an intelligent, serious, and grave air and demeanor; of a middling stature and slender make. COSTUME AND FOOD OF ZEILA. 5 The Somals have a singular taste for red hair. This is considered an ornament of which they are prond ; and to produce it they use certain means by which they dye black hair red. The natui'e of their hair seems to be the same as that of the Abyssinian s : it is curled artificially. They also besmear it with butter^ but do not plait it ; at least we have not yet seen any plaited hair. The costume of the natives of Zeila^ and the Somals, is nearly the same as that of the Abyssinians ; except that trowsers are not universally worn. The females go chiefly unveiled, having only a cloth, generally blue, tied round their heads. The dress of the women is to- tally different from the Abyssinians and Arabs. The food of the inhabitants of Zeila seems to con- sist chiefly of maize, dates, and milk, particularly camels^: flesh is also eaten by those who can aff^ord it. Rice is imported from India, and coffee from Horror ; both of which are dear here. The traffic of this place, as in Abysinnia, is conducted chiefly by barter. Cloths are purchased with money ; these are exchanged for corn ; and in lieu of corn any thing may be procured. The Indian cloth, in which they trade, is of three kinds. The best is Kash : of this we obtained seventeen Zeila yards, about equal to a Brabant yard, for a dollar. An inferior kind is called Ilurmia : it is made of cotton, but appears to be stronger than that manufactured in Abyssinia. jlpril 3, 1839. — Late yesterday evening I sent the B 3 6 MESSAGE FROM THE GOVERNOR. Governor the above-mentioned recommendations. About half an hour afterward^ and before he had received them, a messenger arrived from him, asking for them, and bringing back the presents which we had given him, except the lucifer matches ; wdth the remark, that such caftans wxre not worn in this country : that he would have been glad if we could have given him some- thing which might have shown our respect tov/ard him before the people ; but that if w^e had nothing, it would make no difference — he would nevertheless serve us in every thing. The messenger at the same time hinted that a present of about 100 dollars would have been agreeable to the Governor. AVe sent him word, that we felt sorry at not being able to recompense his kindness by something that might please him ; that the object of our journey did not lead us to think of presents, what we had being just sufficient for the indispensable wants of our journey, and that w^hat we offered him was all we could spare : moreover, that he ought not to estimate our friendship by any present, although we intended in future to remember him in some more positive manner : meanwhile we thanked him for the friendship shown to us, and commended ourselves afresh to his kindness. The messenger pro- mised to deliver our answei", and we gave him a dollar in remuneration. He then begged the present returned by the Governor, for himself and his children ; but we refused, saying, that as the Governor did not like it, it would serve very well for our own use. ARRIVAL AT TADJURRA. 7 The Governor also informed us, that a boat which had arrived this evening from Berbera had brought the news, that Shermarke was on board the brig which had been seen yesterday, and that he had gone to Tadjurra. About ten o^clock this morning we got under weigh with three other boats, which also go to Tadjurra : — wind blo^nng north-east. I asked some of our crew, who are Somals, whe- ther their hair was naturally red : they answered in the negative. On enquiring how they dyed it, they said, that they besmeared it first with wet lime, after- Avard with butter, then with mud ; and that when the hair began to redden, they applied to it the juice of a plant. The captain said, that they moistened the lime with the urine of camels ; but the pilot denied it with horror, saying, that the Bedouins only did so, who do not pray. Evening. As the wind was from the north-east, we could not get out into the open sea, but made our way between the small islands along the coast. It was as pleasant as sailing on the Nile. We passed the Sheikas Islands, and the Island of Hagila; and all the four boats came to anchor near the small island of Assuba. As it was early, we went on shore to gather shells, of which there was a great variety. Jpril 4, 1839. — We arrived at Tadjurra at half past two o'clock this afternoon, and went directly to the so- called Sultan, whom we found sitting in the shade be- 8 DESCRIPTION OF fore his house, leaning against the wall, with some of his attendants near him on either side. He is an old man of about sixty years of age. He saluted us with gestures ; and we delivered our letter of introduction from the Governor of Zeila, which he received in silence. We sat a little while, and then he made us a signal to retire ; on which we accompanied ovir guide, Mahomed Ali, to a house which he showed us as our dwelling, constructed of sprigs covered inside and out- side with mats, and divided into four apartments, like the houses in Arkeeko. As our baggage was yet in the boat, we had to go on board again, to get it on shore. In the harbour we saw the above mentioned brig. It was a merchantman, called the " Euphrasia," Capt, Blondeau, a Frenchman, from Mauritius, with whom we met Lieut. Tilley, an Englishman. On reaching our boat, the Captain came up to us. We saluted each other ; and he then sent a boat to take us to his vessel, where we passed the night. Jpril 5, 1839. — This morning we removed our bag- gage from the boat to our temporary dwelling. We should have been glad to have arranged matters for our journey ; but the Captain and Shermarke obliged us, against our will, to settle a quarrel between them, which took up the greater part of the day. April 6 — By the brig " Euphrasia," which left early this morning, we despatched letters for Cairo and Europe. Tadjurra is a far more miserable town than Zeila. Its geographical situation is wrongly marked TADJl'RRA. y on the maps : it is at a much greater distance from Zeila, and, as we were informed on board the ''Eu])hra- sia/^ its northern latitude is 11° 58'. The houses are all made of sprigs : there are about iifty connected yards in the place, each of which in- closes several sprig hovels. The inhabitants are Dana- kils : their sovereign is called Sultan, or Dardar Mahomed. He appears to be a good-natured man, but of limited acquirement ; as he does not seem to know how to read Arabic, neither does he speak it fluently. The people here have seen but very few Europeans among them ; hence we are the objects of their gi'cat- est curiosity. This, indeed, was the case also at Zeila ; but there we stopped on board the ship, whereas here we live among them, and are consequently much more exposed to their gaze. The so-called Sultan, who, on our first interview with him, put on so grave an air, called on us to-day, to ask for a present : however, his subject, IMahomed Ali, put him to silence. April 8 — Yesterday was a day of trial to us. In the afternoon, the Sultan came witli his Vizier and Cadi, to make an agreement with us about the camels and mules for our journey. If the Sultan looks rather diminutive, the Vizier's bodily circumference on the contrary, is well suited to his title. "While these gentle- men were seated with him, the Sultan sent for the Letter from the Governor of Zeila. The messenger, on his return, threw the Letter at the feet of his master : it 10 VISIT FROM THE was then picked up^ and the Sultan stuck it into his turban. By this ceremony he wished to display his kingly dignity. A long dispute now ensued about the hire of mules and camels. They asked twenty dollars hire for every mulc^ and would not consent to any re- duction. For every camel they demanded, at first, twenty-six dollars ; and when we referred to the order of the Governor of Zeila, that we should have the ani- mals at the usual caravan price, they said that the caravan price for a camel was a female slave. On closer inquiry, we learned that the caravans generally have camels of their own. Only in one instance, when the King of Shoa had ordered some small cannon, he paid a female slave for every camel. This gave us an oppor- tunity to protest against tbe slave-trade ; saying, that we could in no wise engage in such traffic. They then fixed the price of each at twenty-three dollars. At length we determined to purchase two mules, and to hire only as many camels as were requisite to carry our most indispensable baggage, and to let our attendants ride on the same. After these people had left us, we consulted together ; but were at a loss what to do, as our pecuniary means were so sadly reduced. Finally, we deliberated whether one of us had not better pro- ceed to Aden, and draw money there. We had, indeed, written to Captain Haines, and to Bombay, for 400 dollars : but it might be some time before this could reach us. This plan, however, was also objectionable in many respects. It is the Lord^s will that we SULTAN OF TADJURRA. IX here suffer tribulation, that we may draw nearer to Him. To-day, after supper, the Sultan called on us, begging some medicine for a sick woman. He was more fami- liar than usual. When we asked how old he was, he replied, " Between thirty and forty." He was ignorant of his own age, but said that he was a boy, and un- married, when he became Sultan. His silvery beard, however, shows that he cannot be far from sixty. On this occasion we also learned, that the dignity of the Sultan and Vizier is hereditary in this country, and is divided between the two families; so that after the de- cease of the Sultan, his Vizier succeeds him, and the son of the Sultan succeeds the Vizier. Our Rais, iNIahomed Kassem, took leave of us to- day. I gave him Letters for Cairo, which he is to for- ward by way of Zeila. April 9, 1839.— At one o'clock p.m. the thermo- meter was at 93° in the shade. April 10— We wrote several Letters last night. Collected to-day some Dankali words : closed the col- lection of Amharic words from Exodus, and began with Leviticus. We gave some oil of turpentine yesterday, with good effect, to a wife of the Sultan, as a remedy against hysterics. Xpril 16 — We have been detained till this day by the illness of INIahomed Ali, our guide. Wrote Letters for Cairo and London, and sent them to Mocha by a boat belonging to Mahomed Ali. The business about the 13 SLAVE TRADE. mules and camels has given us a great deal of trouble^ on account of our scanty funds. The SuUan has grown more and more friendly toward us ; and once brought us, in his own hands, a jug of milk, and, at another time, a buck. As a present, he only asked for a piece of bafta, to get a dress made for himself; and promised to let us have camels for fifteen dollars each, as we insisted that he should. Yesterday evening, however, when he again called on us, he fixed the price at seventeen dollars ; to which Ave agreed this morning, lest we should cause ourselves any further delay. Warkieh had yesterday another attack of fever ; and I therefore bled him to-day. Brother Krapf is also ap- prehensive of falling ill again here. Mahomed Ali expressed his fears this morning, that if this country were frequented by English travellers, they might put down the slave trade. We told him that the English would not interfere with their trade, as long as matters were not settled between the Sultan Maho- med and the Pasha of Egypt. He is afraid that we are going to persuade the King of Shoa to relinquish the slave trade, which appears to bring them considera- ble gain. The Sultan has just now been here again : he said, that he received yearly 200 head of cattle, camels, cows, sheep, and goats, as a tribute from the Danakil Tribes. Yv'hen asked whether he had not to pay any tribute to the Pasha of Egypt, he said " No : " but when I asked whether he had to pay tribute to the Governor of Zeila, NOTICES OF EXAKE.\, SIDAMA, AND GURAGUE. 13 he replied, that the Governor of Zeila had three-quar- ters of a dollar for every female slave sold here, whereas he receives yearly twenty dollars from Zeila. With the help of God, I have to-day finished the arrangement and insertion into the Lexicon of the words collected from the Pentateuch, and gathered, also, a few Dankali words. IMay the Lord bless this work, and also my fiu'ther proceedings, if He permit me to con- tinue them ! It is a grain of corn, which one day may bring forth fruit. May He draw our hearts more and more to Himself, though it be through sufferings ! Airril 18, 1839. — This afternoon, by the help of God, I terminated the perusal of the Pentateuch, which I began at Jidda. I inserted all the words into the Lexicon, as I had begun so. We bought a mule from our guide, IMahomed Ah ; and the camels are engaged at the rate of seventeen dollars. April 23 — Yesterday the heat was very intense, the thermometer standing at 95° in our room ; but to-day it was only 90°, the sky being overcast. A Mahomedan merchant from Tigr^, who came hither, from Bcrbera, on commercial business, gave us some information concerning Enarea, Sidama, and Gui-agiie ; which he had obtained chiefly from slaves. In these three countries there are many Christians. The race of men in Sidama is said to be su})erior, and of a hghter colour even than the Gallas. They say that the present ruler of Enarea, Abba Gibbo, has broken the 14 "discusssion with caravan intercourse between Gondar and Sidania. His father, Abba Gumbal, sought to destroy his sons and brothers ; but Abba Gibbo gained the ascendancy, and deposed his father, leaving him only on his pay and the government of a small district. The traffic in slaves is very considerable in these countries, and seems to be much promoted by the King of Shoa. Our guide, Mahomed Ali, is much afraid that we shall persuade him to abaiidon it. We have tried to set him at ease in this respect as much as possible; but, nevertheless, he appears to distrust the English. Our stay here, which has been very trying on account of the great heat, will now, I hope, soon draw to a close. The Sultan came again yesterday evening, with a little hurdle basket full of milk, and to-day he called thrice. We have bought a mule, and negotiated for another, which was found to be unserviceable. The day after to-morrow we are to start for our journey. This evening, Warkieh had a discussion with the above mentioned jMahomedan Tigre merchant, j\Iaho- med, concerning Islamism ; in which, after a while, Mahomed Ali also joined. Warkieh required witnesses in behalf of the Koran. After a long dispute, the words of Moses, a prophet like unto me, were quoted ; when I came to Warkieh's assistance, opposing them with the context, //"o?» the midst of thee, as relating to Christ, not to jMahomed ; and showing how the Law, the Prophets, and the Gospel agree with one another ; whereas the Koran agreed with none of these, which A MAHOMEDAN MERCHANT. 15 would be necessary if it were the accomplisliment of tlie whole. Mahomed, the merchant^ said, " It is true that all wisdom and knowledge is with the Franks ; only with regard to religion they are in error." I rejoined : " If you must admit that we are superior to you in the things relating only to this world — and these are indeed very insignificant in comparison to the great questions, ' ^VhsLt must I do to be saved ? ' ' How shall I save my soul from sin, and the curse which is attached toit?^ — do you not think that we also inquire into this most important of all questions ? " I then briefly proclaimed Jesus Christ to him, as the only Redeemer sent from God to us sinners — that it was He alone who could save us on the Day of Judgment, when all other prophets, and so-called Saviours, would have to look for help for their own souls. Hereupon he appeared to grow rather thoughtful ; for as he rose to retire, he said, " We have discussed many things to-day, and you have frightened us." CHAPTER II. PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTIXG FROM TADJURRA— SELFISHNESS OF MA- HOMED ALI— DEPARTURE FROM TADJURRA— NOTICES OF AMBABO, DULLUL, SUKTA, AND SAGGALLO — PECULIARITIES OF THE DANKALI PEOPLE — DEPARTURE FROM SAGGALLO— NOTICES OF THE SALT LAKE ASSAL— CONVERSATION WITH ALI ARAB RESPECTING THE DANKAII TRIBES— INSTANCE OF THE SULTAN OF TADJURKA'S WEAKNESS — AR- RIVAL AT GAG ADE— INTENSE HEAT — DEPARTURE FROM GAGADE, AND ARRIVAL AT DALIBUI, A DANAKIL SETTLEMENT— PROCEED THROUGH THE VALE OF KURRl, SAGGADERE, AND ARRIVE AT LITTLE MARHA • — DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MARHA, PASSING GaLAMO, ADAITA, AND ENCAMP IN THE VALE OF RAM UDELI— DEPARTURE PROM RAMUDELI — APPREHENSION OF ROBBERS— DEPARTURE FROM BARUDEGA — ALARM- ED BY HY.ENAS — DEPARTURE FROM GAIEL, AND ENCAMP AT ALIBE- KELE — CHARACTER OF THE ISSA SOMaLS— DEPARTURE FROJI ALIBE- KELE, AND ARRIVE AT MULLU. April 25, 1839. — Yesterday our departure was deter- mined on for this day. Mahomed Ali got half his wages as guide, viz. twenty-six dollars out of fifty; and for the hire for the camels, thirty-four of the sixty-eight ; in all, sixty dollars. To the Sultan we gave a present of sixteen yards of bafta, worth a dollar and a half, and a small piece of Siamoise, worth two dollars. On ashing for more, we also gave him three dollars in silver, an old handkerchief, and some needles. Here IMahomed Ali again evinced his selfishness, by stating, that he would only guide us as far as the re- VILLAGE OF AMBABO. 17 sidence of his father^ Errer ; from whence his father would go with us as far as Ankobar ; proposing, as dragoman and footman on the road, AU Arab, a mer- chant of this ])lace, who is generally employed as dra- goman by the Sultan. Of course he durst not ask any thing for his father ; but he would not take Ali Arab at his own expense. At last, we agreed to give him fifteen dollars for his companion, as he seemed to be a judicious and well-informed man. A caravan starting to-day, we wished to join them as far as the salt plain ; but two of Mahomed Ali^s people having absented themselves with a camel, and not returning till noon, he postponed our departure till the following morning; saying, that we could easily make, in one day, the two little journeys AA^hich the caravan would make to-day and to-morrow, as it was only five hours' distance — two from this to Ambabo, and three from thence to Diilliil. Jpril 21 — ^Yesterday our departure was finally effected. AVe rose very early in the morning, and had the camels saddled by a quarter to seven. We then set out, and reached Ambabo at a quarter before ten, where we encamped beneath some palm trees. The distance from Tadjurra is about an hour and a half : it lies W. S. W., at the Gubbat il Charab, (the Bay of Tadjurra), which extends itself still farther inland, in a westerly direction. The village Ambabo sprang out of a feud : its inhabitants formerly resided at Tadjurra ; but falling out with the rest of the citizens, they reuioved 18 DULLUL, SUKTA, AND SAGGALLO. to AmbabOj where they built this village. Onr guide stopped behind with Ali Arab, saying, that he would join us in the afternoon, and then proceed with us as far as DliHiil. However, when he came up with Ali Arab, about five o'clock in the evening, he said that we w^ere not to start until morning. On remonstrating with him, he said that the road lay along the coast, and was not passable this evening, on account of the rising flood; in consequence of which w^e were obliged to stop. This morning we rose at three o'clock, and, moving at a quick pace, reached Diilliil at half -past five; and half an hour after, made Sukta. As we met no kafila here, we went on to Saggallo, situated half an hour S. W. from Diilliil. These places are not inha- bited, but serve merely as caravan stations, there being water. The distance from Tadjurra to Saggallo is about five hours. April 28, 1839 : LorcVs Day. — This morning, as we were about to proceed, a camel was said to be lost, and we could not move before it was found again : for the same reason, the caravan which was with us would remain. Mahomed Ali, our guide, seems determined to prolong our journey, as he is anxious to spare his camels. The beast was, however, found in the course of the morning, and we were to proceed in the afternoon. Yesterdaj% the thermometer rose to 94|° : to-day, at eleven o'clock, it was at 96|°. This region is very sandy and stony, and the soil overgrown with dwarfish mimosa trees, which serve to lodge many of the fea- PECULIARITIES OF THE DANKALI PEOPLE. 19 tliered tribe^ particularly sea-birds, pigeons, partridges, and guinea-fowls ; also a small sort of gazelles, in Ara- bic called Beni Israel. Besides the above-mentioned, the hare is the only species of game which resorts hither. There are not many wild beasts here about : the lynx is said to prey upon the goat. We were not able to as- certain whether the leopard is found in the mountains. During our excui'sions, we saw a jackal. This country is by no means deficient in water. At Tadjurra there is a walled cistern. On our road hither, and even here, there are spots where the traveller has but to dig a hole in the ground to get water. Its quality depends, of course, on the nature of the soil. Here it is not the best, having rather an unpleasant taste ; which is made still worse by a certain herb which they put into their badly-prepared skin-bags, and which gives the water a reddish colour and a bitter taste. The Dankali peeple of this region have many pecu- liarities. They are of the same race as the Shohos, and differ from them but little, either in their language or physiognomy. They are, however, less boisterous in their demeanour, though perhaps more shrewd than the Shohos. One peculiarity in their conversation struck us. On saluting each other, or talking toge- ther, the person spoken to generally repeats every sen- tence addressed to him, or at least the last word, which they usually abbreviate, sometimes only pronouncing the last syllable ; or the person spoken to expresses his 20 DEPARTURE FROM SAGGALLO. attention by sympathetically uttering after every sen- tence the protracted sound ' hmm/ They are bigoted Mahomedans ; and, in general, very ignorant. Even the women, while grinding, usually chant their creed, " La illaha ill'allah," &c., or other songs of the same tenour. Their mills are much like those on board the Arab vessels. The women do not live much more separate from the male sex than in Abyssinia, nor is their conduct much more moral. April 29, 1839. — We left Saggallo at midnight, and travelled for half an hour along the sea-coast, in a due west direction; then turned to the north-west, ascended an eminence, passed the defile Gall' allifeo, and, after a further ascent, the station Derkelle; and at last reached some table-land, called Wardelissan. From this we turned westward, till we arrived at a spot where a few low mimosa trees were growing, and here alighted to pass the night : it wanted a quarter to eight when we halted. Estimating the distance by our pace during the seven hours and three quarters' ride, we may have gone over a track of seven hours. As W'C ascended, we breathed a fresh air ; but on reaching the table-land, although the sun had only been up a short time, it grew hot, the heat being increased by a south-east wind. The plain was covered with volcanic stones. April 30. — This morning we started at three o'clock, and descended in a south-east and southern direction, through a narrow ravine, called Raisan, which was very toilsome for the camels to pass. This led us to the SALT LAKE ASSAL. 21 western cud of tlie Bay of Tadjurra, which here termi- nates in a second bay. From AVardeUssan hither we had gone over a track of about an hour-aud-a-half ex- tent ; which, together with the road where we left the sea-coast to WardeUssan, makes five hours; and de- ducting the windings, the distance in a direct hue from the spot where wc left the shore to the end of the bay, is probably about three hours. From thence we as- cended again, and came to table land ; where the vol- canic appearance was still more evident, in the burnt minerals, ashes, and lava, which abounded all around. After proceeding another hour in a westerly direction, we saw the salt lake Assal in a valley before us ; and at eight o'clock we encamped at the caravan station, Daferri, on the declivity of the hill. The heat soon became intense : at noon it was 99", half an hour later 100", and afterwards rose to 102". May 1 — Yesterday our caravan was induced, through the great heat and want of water, to start at three in the afternoon ; and we began to move round the lake. Our course lay south-west ; but owing to the ruggedness of the ground, wc were obliged to wind our way sometimes in almost opposite directions. Wc crossed the valley IMarmarisso, where the caravans sometimes encamp : then came to an eminence, Muya ; whence we descended a steep declivity, and reached the valley Muya at seven o'clock, having made about two hours' way ; although, in a straight line, the distance from Daferri is liardly three-quarters of an hour. From 22 SALT LAKE ASSAL. Muya we set off at half-past one in the night, and first reached a rather elevated plain, named Halaksitan. On account of the ruggedness of the ground, full of chasms and gulfs, the vestiges of volcanic eruptions, we sought to get round the lake Assal, towards the south, in a semicircle. To effect this, we had to round some mountains south of the lake, and arrived at a resting- place at its southern extremity ; but as there was no water, the caravan thought it better not to stop. We now descended to the lake, the shores of which are covered with a thick salt crust, which, to a European, presents the appearance of ice. Hither many caravans resort for salt, to carry to Abyssinia; of which trade the Danakils make a monopoly, claiming the right to take salt from hence as their exclusive privilege. Formerly the lake must have been situated much higher up ; for at the southern and western ends of it a thick crust of white and grey crystal extends along the coast, which, close to the lake, has a saltish taste, the taste decreasing with the distance. We passed over this salt crust from south to west : it rests for the most part directly on the ground, as the water seems to have sunk. In some parts, however, the water is seen beneath, and from hence it is that the caravans take their salt. I examined the salt incrustation in one of these places, and found it to be about half a foot thick. The lake is nearly oval ; its length, from north to south, about two hours ; and its greatest breadth, from east to west, perhaps one hour. The Danakils believe there is a subterranean CONVERSATION WITH ALI ARAB. 23 connexion between this salt lake and the Bay of Tad- jiUTa, from which it is about two hours^ distant, in a direct line. After leaving the lake, we entered a dale toward the west, which ran between moderately high mountains, first westward, then south-west, and at ten o'clock alighted at a place of encampment called Gun- gunta, where there is water. About noon the heat rose to 107% and now, at three p. m., it is 106°. Maij 2, 1839. — This morning we did not move off till sunrise, half-past five. Our road lay first west, then south and south-west, through the valley Kellu, which, by its abundance of water and its verdure, strongly brought to our mind the valley of Samhar ; with this difference only, that the mountains of Samhar are higher, and bear more vegetation. Toward half past eight we arrived at our encamping place, Alluli, after having gone over a distance of two hours. The weather to-day is not so hot as yesterday, although the wiud was equally so. Had, this evening, a conversation with Ali Arab about the Dankali tribes between Tadjurra and Shoa. The chief tribes are the Debenik We'ema, Mudaitu, Ad- AlH, and Burhanto ; to which latter the Sultan of Tad- jurra belongs, and Tadjurra, the tribe of the present Vizier. The Debenik We'ema, and Mudaitu, appear to be the more numerous ; and the latter, ])crhaps, the more powerful of the Kabyles. The Mudaitus have their chief residence in Aussa, and extend as far nortli as near ]\Iassowah. At Aussa, the Sultan has his 24 SULTAN OP TADJURRA's WEAKNESS. Nayb. On our road the Mudaitus begin in tbe valley Kellii, and extend as far as the district of Aussa. At present^ they are at peace with the rest of the Dauakils, although disaffected, especially toward the Debenik We'emas, with whom they had a bloody war some years ago. On that occasion the We'emas called the Bedouins of Aden to their assistance; who sent them 400 sol- diers, and with these they conquered the Mudaitus. Afterward, however, they became indignant at the licentiousness to which these 400 soldiers abandoned themselves after their victory, and endeavoured to re- move them as soon as possible. " Nevertheless," said Ali, "the people of Tadjiu-ra were not prevented from going to Shoa, although the ]\Iudaitus had interrupted the communication. The people of Tadjurra went to the end of their bay ; from thence proceeded, by night, to the lake of Assal ; there collected salt, returned, and then made their way to Shoa through the Somali coun- try, close by Horror." Ali gave us an instance of the Sultan of Tadjurra's weakness. It happened that he wished to give his nephew a wife from another Kabyla, who had a settle- ment in Tadjurra. This being refused by the Kabjda, the Sultan commanded them to leave Tadjurra : how- ever, the other inhabitants of Tadjm'ra encouraged them to remain. Hereupon they sent them to the learned men in Arabia and the Sheiks at Aussa, for their deci- sion of the matter. They all investigated their codes of the law, and found that the Sultan could not force HIS PRAISE-AVORTHY CONDUCT. 25 the Kabyla to do as he wished. Now he has prohibited all marriage for a whole year; yetj in general, the Sul- tan seems to be a well-disposed man. This we con- clude, not only from his treatment of us, but also from the manner of his procedure concerning a ship of Diu, about which we often heard at Tadjurra. Several years ago, this ship, with a considerable cargo on board, hap- pened to get into the Bay of Tadjurra, having lost her course. The people of Tadjurra helped them to dis- charge their cargo into a small vessel, with which they sent a pilot to steer her to Mocha; and, for their trouble, would take no other compensation than 200 bundles of rice and the vessel, out of which the Sultan has constructed a house. This, indeed, may appear an adequate remuneration ; but the restitution of all the goods, v/hich it was in his ])Ower to have kept in great part for himself, is a very commendable action in a Chief of these savage tribes. Yesterday evening, some merchants of the caravan came and asked me whether the Indians have also books. They had heard this from our people, to whom we had told it ; and, wondering, said they knew very well that the Jews, the Franks, and the Kafers in Abyssinia, "i^ bad books, but thought the Indians had none. I told them that they had many books, otherwise it would be incon- ceivcable how they could be so learned and cultivated as they are ; that we possessed some of their books, but * Here I rebuked them for calling the Abyssinians, or the Cliristian.s in general, Kafer; a name wiiich denotes a man who knows nothing about God, or denies God, or, knowing the will of God, does not act accordingly. C 26 THE PLAIN OF ANDERIIADIDEBA. that tliey had not the Word of God ; that what they wrote on Divinity, Rehgion, and Philosophy, was only the result of their own thinking, and was not divinely revealed to them. May 3, 1839 — Early this morning, at three o'clock, we continued our course, turning westward ; then, for a short time, north-west; then again west and south- west, through barren dales, till we emerged into a vast plain, called Anderhadideba, which separates two ridges of mountains. The soil for the lirst half-hom-'s march over this plain appeared to be good, but produced nothing, the ground being broken up : afterward, how- e\-er, it was fertile, grown over with shrubs, especially the Juniper. We met with some goatherds of the Mudaitus, and saw also three fine roes, which we at- tempted to shoot, but in vain. Toward seven we came to an open spot, called Gagade, where the shrubs recede in a wide circle. This being an encamping place, we here reposed. In our neighbourhood, a Mu- daitu, with his wife and goats, had pitched his tent ; Avhich was very low, and hedged in with thorns, accord- ing to the custom of the country. The weather is very hot. Between eleven and this time — a quarter before two — the thermometer has varied from 106° to 109° : however, the wind is not so hot as it was yesterday and the preceding days. Toward half-past three, 111°: a quarter to four, 107°. May 4 — Left Gagade at half-past one this morning. The other caravan had already separated from us ; one OCCUPATION OF THE DAXAKILS. 27 dinsion to go to Aussa ; the other, as Mahomed AH said, because we marched too fast. Our people have abeady been prevented for several days from riding on the camels, for which we are very sorry, although I myself always walk on foot, for want of a mule. Re- monstrances \\'ith ^lahomed Ali avail nothing : we must submit, especially as his camels are so very weak. We moved at fii'st chiefly west till we arrived at the resting- place, Karautu, where the way to Aussa branches off toward the west. From Karautu, our com-se lay south, between mountains, exhibiting traces of volcanic action, with scarcely any vegetation. Only in the valleys did we see gi'ass and brushwood ; and even here the ground is like\vise covered with ashes. Soon after, we entered a long glen, where we saw many date trees, of which not the least care seems to be taken. The Bedouins cut off the summit of these trees, and extract the juice, which is said to be intoxicating. At eight we arrived at Da- libui, a Danakil settlement, where we rested. In the last six hours and a half we had not made above three hours' way. Half an hour before noon, the thermo- meter was at 97": at noon, 98° : at one o'clock, 99 ' : and remained as high as 97° at five p.m. A chief occupation of the Danakils, especially of the women, more particularly when they travel, is the plaiting of mats and baskets, for salt and corn, from the branches of the palm-tree. The women seem to be industrious. They dress in a veiy slovenly manner, and frequently wear nothing but a piece of cloth, of a C 2 28 DRESS OF THE DANAKILS- gi-ey, h\\\e, or variegated colour, tied round their hips, and reacliing down to the knees, sometimes bound round with a fancifully- wrought leathern belt. Not- withstanding, they are vain, and fond of wearing brace- lets and foot- ornaments, ear and nose-rings, coral strings on their necks, &c. 3fai/ 5, 1839 : Lord's Day — We started at three this morning, and moved in a south-west direction^ through the vale of Kurri, till we reached Saggadere, and thence to Little Marha, where we arrived at seven, having passed over a space of about two hours and a quarter, in three and a half. Vs^& had fresh trouble with our two people, because they could not ride, and were unwell. The heat again rather oppressive : at noon, 95" : a quarter of an hour later, 97° : half-past twelve, 100" : at one, 102°. The road was nearly level, hence no decrease of heat : very little vegetation. It appears to have rained some days since, but the ground seems to have absorbed all the moisture ; nevertheless, water is not totally wanting. Our victuals begin to fail; and as our butter is all gone, we have to boil our rice and lentils — which are the only provisions left us — in water and salt. However, if the Lord be our Shepherd, we shall not want ; and He will help us through every difficulty, proceed they from whatever quarter they may. The thermometer, at a quarter-past two, at 103|° : a few minutes later, at 104°. May 6 — Yesterday, at a quarter to four p.m., we left Little Marha, moved along the valley almost westward, then ascended a hill of about 300 feet elevation, very VALE OF RAMLDELT. 29 stony ; and afterward took a more southern direction, to a caravan encaniping-spot on the table-land, which we reached at a quarter to seven o'clock, having made a way of about one hour and three-quarters, in three hours. In the evening, a hot wind blew : the ground beneath us, as we lay stretched upon it, glowed almost like an oven. We set off at half-past three this morning, and marched stumbling over the stony table-land, till we descended and passed through a ravine, and neared the caravan station Galamo, where we found a few Bedouin huts. General route, south-west. Passed a hill, and came into another Aalley, where we should have reposed, had we not been encouraged to pursue our journey by the lowering sky protecting us from the burning sun. From Adaita we passed through a grassy plain, in which there w^ere roes and gazelles. From this the road soon led again over a hill, commanding a vast pros- pect from the summit. Farther on, we entered the vale of Ramudeli, where we encamped. We arrived here at half-past eight, having made scarcely three hours' way in five hours' march. The sun now broke through the clouds, and away went the freshness of the air. We lay down beneath some mimosa trees, and after a while our guide sent his people to go for water ; but they returned with the distressing intelligence that they had sought for it in vain. We had taken water in our bags yesterday afternoon at Marha, but it was now consumed, and our guide had calculated on fnuling 30 HALT AT DAUEILEKA. water here. The heat is again oppressive, the thermo- meter, being now, half-past eleven, at 102° : the same at two o'clock. The heat here is increased by the north- east wind passing over the scorched hills. "VVe found water at last in this vale, for which the Lord be praised ! May 8, 1839 — We left Ramudeli yesterday morning at half-past three; atfive o'clock reached Abu Yussufj and toward half-past eight, Gubaad. Yesterday afternoon, at three o'clock, we left Gubaad, passed through Sankal, and a spot where there is a fountain of water, and ar- rived at Arabdera about eight in the evening. It was too hot, and I was too tired to write. The distance be- tween Ramudeli and Gubaad may be about three hours, and nearly the same between Gubaad and Arabdera. We left Arabdera this morning at three. It is situated on a vast elevated plain, almost completely covered with volcanic stones. Just before sunrise we came to a wide low plain, where we saw some wild-asses grazing, which took to their heels at our approach. At ten we reached our resting-place Daueileka, where our camel-drivers dressed a wild ass which they had killed. In these seven hours we have made about four hours' way. The German hymn, " My life is a pilgrimage," is becoming very familiar to me on this journey. May 9 — Yesterday evening our people seemed to be apprehensive of robbers. They stated that a hostile Kabyla, called Galeila, had gone far away from this part to a watering-place, and that consequently we could not proceed thither ; the more so, as the friendly We'ema MOUNT MART. 31 Dankali, who formerly had kept them under restraint, had removed from among them. This morning we started at sunrise, a quarter before six ; and after a short inarch on the plain west-ward, ascended a pretty high eminence, called Mari, southward; and at half-past ten reached our eucamping-place on the table-land. The air grew more and more pure and fresh as we as- cended, and I felt rather refreshed than fatigued when we arrived on the plain. Thermometer 90" at half-past ten: at eleven, 93°: half-past twelve, 97°: at one o'clock, 98°. Mahomed Ali says he has received news that his relations have left Errer for want of rain, and have re- moved towards the north. May 10 — Yesterday afternoon, at twenty minutes past three, we set out from our encampment on Mount ]\Iari, and descended a low terrace ; then marched on a wide undulating high plain, over loose stones, without a vestige of a path, our guides at a great distance in front, till, after sunset, we reached a declivity, the descent of which was not a little dangerous. Several times the camels could hardly move forward, terrified by the dismal abyss on the right ; while the darkness of the night rendered the path under our feet almost un- discernible. At length we reached an eminence at the foot of the mountain on its western side, and there halted, on a stony spot, where the Bedouins used to enclose their herds between loose walls, to keep them from beasts of prey; although there was no fuel to light a fire, nor water to drink. This morning, we 32 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. started off at a quarter before five. When the moon is in the wane, we have in general observed the maxim to rise with it, and prepare our breakfast, and then to proceed while the camels are loading. We descended the remaining declivity, and came to Ahull, where we found four or five hot springs, probably sulphureous. Here we took in water. After a stop of about an hour, we prosecuted our com-se through a large plain, extend- ing south-east and north-west : our route lay south- Avest across a plain. We afterward passed over a little eminence covered with volcanic stones, called Lukki, which is nearly flat on the top, as are most mountains we have passed on this journey. After half-past nine we arrived at a tree, beneath which we reposed. From this spot we have an extensive prospect before us toward the south-west and west : the country is nearly level, with the exception of some low hills in the vicinity, and two or three higher ones at a distance in the west — the mountains of Argobba, and perhaps of Shoa. Thermometer now, at half-past eleven, at 97". Left Lukki at three p.m., and ascended the plain, which was overgrown with grass, in a south-western direction. Mahomed Ali saw a hysena on the road, and a dark grey snake of considerable size. We marched till nearly seven o'clock, when we rested on a level spot in the plain of Killele. May 11 — We started at one in the night, in order to make a good journey to-day ; but we had not pro- ceeded far, when we and our animals got into the mud. APPROACH OF A IIY.EXA. 33 The rain wliicli fell here yesterday, on the clayey soilj has changed it into mud. However, as we turned as far as practicable to the west, we soon reached a dry spot ; and thence took a more northern course, till we met with a new difficulty, and lay down to await day-break. Toward sunrise we noticed several herds of cattle in the valley, and a relation of Mahomed Ali, with a Soniah, came to salute him. At half-past seven we set out again, first north, then north-west, then west, and passed two large herds of fine cattle. Here we drank water and filled our leather bags. After another hour's march, arrived at Barudega, where we rested under a tree, but were annoyed by insects. By half-past eleven the heat rose to 103" : toward one o'clock a shower fell, and reduced the heat to 95°. May 12: Lord's Day — Yesterday, at half-past three P.M., we left Barudega, and, piu-suing our course south- west through the plain, drew near a low ridge of moun- tains, stretching south-east and north-west. Toward eight, we came to a place with trees, brush-wood, and water, where we halted and passed the night, as we could not now reach Gaiel, the village of INIahomed All's uncle, the Chief of the Debenik "We'ema. No sooner had we laid down, than Ernst awoke us, and in a great fright took up a sword and musket, pointing flt a beast of prey which he said had come near us, and which he thought was a lion. As it immediately began to howl, we discovered that it was a hyrcna. "Warkieh now kept watch, but soon feel asleep. ^)'hen we awoke c 5 34 EXCESSIVE HEAT. in the morning, we noticed the traces of two hyfenas, which had crawled about our camp and close to our beds. Mahomed Ali, having been awakened by their noise, had chased them away by throwing a stone at them ; — a new evidence this, of the hand of God guard- ing us against such dangers, and the presumption of the flesh in fancying to be able to guard itself. It is already the third Lord's Day of our journey from Tadjurra, and the sixteenth since we left Cairo. To us it is indeed a great privation to be shut out from celebrating it in communion with our Brethren — wan- dering about as strangers in jNIesech, and our souls often longing in a strange country for the courts of the Lord. However, we are pilgrims for Him, and are per- suaded that He will amply compensate us for our actual privations. "Would that our present conversation were more sanctified ! We shall probably stop here to-day : either the people of the village are unwilling to receive us, or our guide has so agreed with them, that they come out to him, instead of our going to them. We do not lose much by not being among them, but per- haps escape their curiosit}^, and thus gain more quiet, which we desire, on the Lord's day. The heat threatens to become excessive again to-day ; about half an hour ago the thermometer showed 93° ; and now, a quarter-past ten, it is at 98°. At half-past one it rose to 107°: and at two to 108°. Mahomed All's uncle, to whom he had sent a few days since for some camels to assist him, had been out to meet us, with DAXKALI TRIBES. 35 a horse or mulcj and some soldiers ; but as lie went the right road, and we travelled on a bye-way, he had missed us. Thermometer, at a quai'ter-past three p.m., 108°. May 13, 1839 — Yesterday evening, after long vacilla- tions, Mahomed Ali at length resolved to go into the vil- lage. We started at about half-past five, and entered the village, which was only a quarter of an hour's distance from our camp, and seated ourselves in front of the house and stable of the Dankali Chief, the uncle of our guide. At this moment we are thronged by men and boys of this country, whom curiosity has attracted to see us. Thermometer, at a quarter-past seven, 8,2° : at half-past eight, 85°. The name Adaiel, for the Dankali people, is the Arabic mode of calling the whole by a part. It is de- rived from Ad Alb, one of the Kabyles of the Danakil, to which the Sultan of Tadjurra belongs. The chief seat of this tribe is in the neighbourhood of Shoa; but the greater part is dispersed among diiFerent other tribes. Formerly it was probably the most powerful of any, and gave the name to the whole of its former dominion. Apparently, the most powerful tribes at present are the Mudaitus and Debcnik We'ema. The former have their chief seat in Aussa, and sometimes get in collision with the We'emas and the rest of the Danakils. They are seemingly more numerous and powerful than any other Dankali tribe. The name Dankali is Arabic : they call themselves Affar. Thcr- 36 ARTICLES OF BARTER. mometer, at half-past ten, 98° : a quarter-past eleven, 105°: at noon, 1052°: seven minutes after one, 108^°: a quarter before two, 109": half-past tvi'o, 110°: at three, 106°. For the last few days we have generally had several w^hirlwinds in the afternoon. When at Lukki, we observed many about noon ; it then rained in the afternoon. 7lfa^l4, 1839 — We set off from Gaiel, and ascended an eminence about two hours from Gaiel, in a south-west direction. Here we encamped near the Avatering-place AHbekele, where the herds of cattle belonging to the Bedouins of this region assemble to drink. Ther- mometer, a quarter-past two, at 103° : a quarter to three, 101|° : then 101°, as a thunder-storm is ap- proaching : at three, 99°. May 15 — We did not leave Alibekele, as IMahom- ed Ali sent this morning for his father, because there is plenty of water here, but none at the place of his residence. The trade in these countries is car- ried on by barter. What they call Nile stuff, that is to say, blue-dyed bad bafta, and grey Indian Kosh (linen), are given as money for larger articles. SLxteen native yards of the latter are required for a dress : the former is used by the women to cover the head. For Kosh we bought a sheep ; for Nile stuff, butter ; and for pepper and needles, milk. Thermometer, at a quarter-past seven a.m., at 87° : ten minutes before eleven, 99" : a quarter-past eleven, 1021" : a few minutes after, 106°. REMARKABLE DELIVERANCE. 37 Mmj 16— Every night we are visited by hysenas, wliicli generally venture close to our beds; but although we have kept watch several times, we have not yet succeeded in killing one. Our guide, Mahomed Ali, asserted yesterday evening, that leopards never inha- bit the same region with hysenas. As we contended against this, he related, that, in his travels, he once saw a leopard with a sheep in his jaws, encounter a hyana : the leopard fled to a tree, and the hysena, unable to follow him, kept watch beneath. At last, the leopard, seeing the people coming at a distance, came down ; when the hycena fell upon him, and tore him and the sheep to pieces, which were found by the people when they arrived at the spot — the hyrena ha\'iug taken to flight at the approach of men. He assui-ed us that hysenas are much stronger than leo- pards ; but that they flee from man : whereas leopards attack man, although they never make head against a hysena. This may serve to confirm a fact which the Rev. S. Gobat is said to have related among his friends, as an instance of a remarkable deliverance when he slept between a leopard and a hyrena, Ijoth at a short distance from him : the hyana having restrained the fierceness of the leopard during the whole night. In the morning, he said, he threw a stone at the hyaena, whereupon the leopard went away of his own accord. Regarding the Issa Somals, both Mahomed Ali and Ali iVrab stated that they are malicious — that they 38 CHARACTER OF THE ALLA GALLAS. steal and murder. Sometimes two or three of them go on a robbing expedition^ and providing themselves with victuals for several months, secrete themselves in ambush along the road, and lurk for travellers who may happen to separate themselves from the caravan, to as- sail and kill them. They are on pretty good terms with the Debenik We'emas ; who, however, are on their guard against them. They serve the Alia Gallas as leaders against the Danakils, when not in hostility with each other. They say that the Alia Gallas, through the midst of whom we have to travel for four or five days, are a very dangerous people,* Ali related that on a jom-ney through their country, their caravan hav- ing encamped, with theii* arms in readiness, and while keeping watch, late in the night they observed a single Galla approaching their camp, crawling on his belly, and in the act of raising his lance to kill a man of the caravan. They then rose to seize him; but he escaped. — Bows and poisoned arrows are still in use among the Somals. Fire-arms are yet little knowTi among these savages. When Brother Krapf fired his pistol, they screamed, and stooped down. They are bigoted jNIahomedans. Yesterday, one of them came into our tent to look at our things. As he was prevented, he pronounced the words, " La illaha ilFallah," which I repeated after him. He continued, "AVaMahomed Russul Ullah,^^ repeating it several times, as he saw that I did * The sequel shows, however, that this was not the case. DEPARTURE FROM ALIBEKELE. 39 not say it after him. Then I said, " Wal Messicli ibn Allah." Upon this he rose, and went out. Mahom- ed Ali several times expressed his surprise that the Ulemas at Cairo had not persuaded us to become Ma- homedans. The principal seat of their learning seems to be Aussa; where they say several Ulemas reside, whose learning, according to Ali Arab, is as the sea. Thermometer, at six in the morning, 78° : at eight, 86" : at nine, 88°. Yesterday we were again permitted to experience that the Lord was with us in His Spirit of discipline, purifying our conversation and common relationship. May He ever rule among us, and never withdraw His grace from us ! About an hour ago, ^lahomed Ali's father arrived on a mule, and without escort. He has not yet been in our tent ; but has sent us a handful of coffee-seeds, with the message, that we should prepare some coffee, as he would drink it with us. Thermometer, at a quar- ter-past ten, 91 3° : ten minutes past eleven, 100° : at noon, the sky overcast, 98° : at one, 105i° : after ten minutes more, 107°. May 1 7, 1839 — We left AUbekele yesterday afternoon at three, ascending westward, and in half-an-hour were overtaken by a shower. After stopping till it was nearly over, we made our way with difficulty through the mud. Toward seven we arrived at a spot called Adaito, where wc passed the night. As my coverlet was quite soaked through, I had to make the best of 40 MOUNTAINS OF HORROR. my shirts and sheets during the night. The father of Mahomed AH brought us milk^ which Mas quite a refreshment. We started this morning about seven. Our course lay over a stony plain with much grass^ on which we saw many herds and singing birds. At half- past eight we reached Hasnadera^ the residence of Sheik Ali, Mahomed All's father, where we halted, l^liile pitching our tent, some children brought ns grass to strcAv beneath it, for which they begged coral. When the tent was erected, a bag of curdled milk was brought to us. We shall stay here at least this day ; and then a new period of our journey will probably begin with om* new guide. The Lord be praised, who has helped us thus far ! Though not without troubles, yet we are still spared ; though not without sins and temptations, yet with obvious proofs of His continued favor and mercy we have got on hitherto. On the road this morning, I stayed alone with the Lord, and stood before Him, like Jacob of old at the ford of Jabbok, and He blessed me. Yesterday evening we saw the mountains of Horror before us, toward the south-west, covered with clouds. The town of Horror is said to be only two and a half days' journey distant from this. We are already in the neighbourhood of the Alia Gallas ; who have expelled Sheik Ali Abe from Errer, and spread themselves as far as that district. Terrible people ! seeking their honour in murder ! On asking our guide yesterday, w^hy the Gallas kill people, whether for booty or otherwise. GREAT IIASNADERA. 41 he said, " Their only honour and riches consist in the number of their slain enemies. In other countries, one inquires after the wealth, rank, or condition of a per- son, in order to honour him ; but among the Gallas one asks only how many men he has butchered.^^ ^^ by should we withhold the Gospel of mercy from these wretched slaves of Satan ? Within two days more we shall reach them ; and five days it will take us to pass through the midst of them, before we come to the Hawash. Thermometer this morning, at half-past nine, 90° : near ten, 94°. The AVe'ema Danakil maintain about ]00 Somal bow- men, who have been taken from various Somal tribes, and are now naturalized among them : they still preserve, however, their Somal tongue, and marry among themselves, without intermixing with the Danakils. The Danakils regard shooting as unlaw- ful, and therefore employ the Somals in it. They seem to cany on bloody wars sometimes among themselves. The same is also said of the Somals. Thermometer, at a quarter-past twelve, 104° : a quarter to one, 107° : at two, 110.^°. May 18, 1839 — Yesterday evening, Mahomed Ali endeavoured to procure an additional camel; saying, that the four we had were not sufficient as we should henceforward travel quicker. This morning, at half- past six, we set off from Little Hasnadera, and con- tinuing our course south-west over the plain, which was gradually rising. We reached Great Hasnadera at half-past ten, where we halted, as Mahomed Ali said 42 ARRIVAL AT MULLU. that we were to pass the night here. Thermometer at half-past two, 106° ; sky overcast. May 19^ 1839: Lord's Day — On this clay, European Christians commemorate the effusion of the Holy Spirit, and the Church is refreshed here and there by a new outpouring of the same ; while we here at MuUu, about an hour and a half west from Great Hasnadera, om* present place of repose, must pitch our tent in Kedar. May the Lord pour also upon us a shower of mercy, and revive the scorched soil of our hearts ! that the blessed stream from the heavenly altar may also flow to this dead sea of nations, and renew them ! Yesterday evening, at ten minutes before six, we left Great Hasnadera ; and moving westward, over very stony gi'ound, reached j\Iullu, where Shiek Ali has his chief residence, at half-past eight. Mullu is nothing but a vast plain covered with stones, with here and there a little verdure and a few mimosa trees, and some scattered sprig hovels. A cluster of such huts form something like a village. As our guide, Mahomed Ali, declared he would stay here to-morrow, and we are to pursue our road, we are wi-iting Letters to go by him. Hitherto I have travelled on foot ; but as a mule has been offered me to-day by the old man for fifteen dollars, to be paid for hereafter, I have accepted it for myself and Warkieh, as he also begins to find walking difiicult. CHAPTER III. TAKE LEAVE OF MAHOMED ALI — DEPARTURE FROM MULLU — NOTICE OP A SKIRMISH BETWEEN THE DEBEMK WE'eMAS AND THE MUDAITUS — ARRIVE AT JIETTA — LEAVE METTA, AND ENCAMP AT HAMCISSA — ARRIVE AT LITTLE MULLU — ELEPHANT HUNTING — DEPARTURE FROM LITTLE MULLU, AND ENCAMP AT BERDUDA — NOTICE OF THE DANKALI TRIBES INHABITING THESE REGIONS — LEAVE BERDUDA, AND CROSS THE PLAIN HALAKDIGGI— ABUNDANCE OF GAME -ARRIVE AT THE RIVER HAWASH — NOTICES OP IT — VISIT TO A LAKE WEST OF THE HAWASH — DEPARTURE FROM MELKUKUYU AND ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF FARRI — DEPARTURE FROM FARRI, AND ARRIVE AT ALUI AMBA — INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR — DEPARTURE FROM META- TIT — ARRIVAL AT ISLAM AMBA — VISIT TO THE KING, AND KIND RE- CEPTION BY HIM — ARRIVAL AT ANGOLLALA — INTERVIEWS WITH THE KING — HIS DESIRE FOR MEDICINE — BECOME ACQUAINTED WITH MAR- ETSH, AN INFLUENTIAL GOVERNOR OF THE ABEDTSHOO GALLAS — INSTANCES OF THE KINC/s SELFISHNESS — DEPARTURE OF THE KING FOR ANGOLLALA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST OF BULGA ON FASTING — ABYSSINIAN CHRONOLOGY — VILLAGES AROUND ANGOLLALA — EXCUR- SION TO THE RIVER TSHATSHA — DEPARTURE FROM ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVAL AT ANKOBAR. May 20 — This mornings IMaliomcd Ali consigned us over to the guidance of liis father for the succeed- ing part of our journey ; in which transaction, which was conducted rather formally, Ali Arab acted as Tar- giman. We separated as friends. The way before us is apparently hazardous ; not only on account of the Gallas, whose northern boundaries we shall have to 44 TAKE LEAVE OF MAH0:MED ALL touch, but particularly on account of the hostile IMutlia- tuSj along whose southern border our route lies. On this account, Sheik Ali declared he would take an escort of his people, for safety's sake. We should have set out this morning ; but as there is no water at the next stage, water was sent for, to load a camel. The old man made a strange remark : he said, that the road by which we came was generally destitute of water ; but that, on account of our object, no w^ant of water had been permitted on this occasion. Thermometer, at half-past eight a.m., 92° : at one p.m., 106" : at two, 103°. May 22, 1839 — Yesterday, our guide left us : to him we gave letters for INIocha, Cairo, London, Basle, and Barmen. We left Mullu about sunrise, and moving south-west over a plain, arrived, at half-past nine, at a place called ^Vuderdera, about two houi's and a half distant from ]\Iullu. Thence we set out at about half- past three p.m., and jom'ueyed south-west till eight, when the old man said we could not reach the water stage, Korde'eti, that night. This morning, half an hour after we started, we arrived at the water stage, Korde'eti, where we took in a supply, and also watered the animals. Pi'oceeding onward, we soon reached the village Korde'eti, and alighted after we had passed it. Before us, to the north-west, we saw the Baadu and Aialu mountains. Those of Aialu are of considerable height. Ali Ai-ab stated, that on some part of these mountains a bloody sku'mish had taken place last year, between PROSPECT FROM METTA. 45 the Debcnik We'emas and the Mudiatus ; in which the latter had 700 killed, the former 140. IMahomed Ali's statement varied in the number : he said, Mudai- tus 1500, We'emas 120. In their wars, the Debenik Vv'e'emas always make common cause with the Issa Somals against the Mudaitus, in which event the Issa Somals amount to one third of their number. South- west of us is the Gcbel Achmar, or the Galla moun- tains. The land between us and that mountain is an undulating plain, said to extend from the banks of the Hawash as far as Berbera. Thermometer, at one P.M., 110". May 23 — We remained yesterday at Korde'eti, it being the last place of the tribe of We'cma. Here we drank milk, and our new guide Sheik Ali engaged some people of the place to accompany vis ; because, he said, the journey before us was very dangerous, Wc started this morning about a quarter-past five, and descended gradually, in a south-west direction through the valley, till half-past nine ; then stopped at the dry bed of a small brook in the plain, along which numer- ous mimosas were growing, and put uj) under a large tree of this kind. The name of this stage is Metta. Thermometer, near eleven, 98". At this very moment we see, at about a quarter of an hour^s distance, several whirling columns of dust, like smoke ; giving the countrjf the appearance of a manufacturing town with numerous huge steam-engines at work. The air is very hazy ; and there is a mist on the ground, seeming 46 HAMUISSA. to cover the mountains from top to bottom. Thermo- meter, at half-past twelve, lOS- : wind north-east, warm. Mmj 24, 1839— We left Metta yesterday at half-past three p.m. ; and marching almost west over the plain where we have put up, passed by the village Metta, and afterward saw herds of large and small cattle. After seven, we came to the village Kummi ; and about an hour later, encamped near a deserted and ruined village of the Bedouins. Although we were in want of water, and the watering-place, as the people said, was yet at a great distance, still the old man could not be induced to proceed. Consequently, we lay down to rest, and set off this morning at a quarter-past five ; and, pursuing our course over the same plain, west-south- west, saw to the left, at a little distance. Mount Afrabat ; to the west of which is joined the small mountain Farsis ; and north-west of this ]\Iount Assabot ; all inhabited by Ittoos. To the right we saw the high land of Shoa and Efat. The plain on which we travelled terminated in a dale overgrown with grass and trees. Here we passed a village inhabited by Dabanis, and gained an eminence, where we met a woman and her child riding on a camel, laden with her Bedouin tent. She showed us the way to the encamping place of a caravan, M'hich was awaiting our an-ival. At about half-past ten we reached this stage, situated near the watering-place, Hamuissa, from which this whole region derives its name; and here we found the caravan. They left VILLAGE OF LITTLE Ml'LLU. 47 TadjuiTa on the day of our arrival there, and did not arrive here till yesterday evening. Our people had long been desiring to join them; and therefore sent word to them yesterday, in consequence of which they said they had waited for us to-day ; otherwise, they would have gone on before. We shall now most likely travel together the rest of our journey : oiu* new com- panions say they will henceforward travel quicker than they have done hitherto. This region abounds with elephants, which come in great numbers to the water in the night, and suffer no man to approach it. The caravan entreated us to shoot them ; but we felt no in- clination to do so. Thermometer this morning at five, 69° : during the afternoon, 105°. Early in the morn- ing it is very cool : the warm winds generally blow till late in the night. May 25, — We started this morning at six, and moved nearly due west, over a fine plain full of grass and trees. Since yesterday, we have noticed a large fii-e on this plain, which is not yet extinguished. On asking the cause of it, they said, that it came of itself. At nine, we put up near the village Mullu ; which is called Little Mullu, to distinguish it from Great Mullu. This village is surrounded by very high grass, reaching higher than the head of a man on horseback, and excel- ling in luxuriance the finest cornfields. It had been agreed upon, that we should repose here for the morn- ing, and resume our journey in the evening, to travel throughout the night, in order to reach the Hawash 48 ELEPHANT HUNTING. soon : liowever, on arriving, we heard that we were to pass the night here, and not to set out before next morning, as the caravan was in fear of the G alias. They alleged that a battle was soon expected to take place between the Danakils and the Gallas ; and that as the Gallas make their invasions only by night, they chose rather to travel during the day. These people alter their statements so many times, that one cannot rely on them ; and by being so apprehensive, give evidence of the truth, that he who does not know and serve the True God, can have no confidence in Jiis ideal God. To-day we happened to have a little elephant-hunt- ing. Soon after we had encamped, four of these ani- mals, three small ones, and one of a larger size, were seen near the camp imder a tree in the grass. The people entreated iis for a long time to shoot at them ; the more so, as they were afraid of their causing some damage to the men or the beasts. We observed them for some time, from a tree, standing and swinging their broad flapping ears, and tlirowing up dust with their trunks, as if to defy us. At length, Warkieh, who had been engaged at other times in elephant-hunting, grew impatient, took a gun, and went toward them, accompanied by Brother Krapf and Ernst, who station- ed themselves under a tree at a certain distance from the elephants. Warkieh, however, was the only one who could shoot, as the grass was too high for the others. He fired twice with Brother Krapf s double- barrelled gun ; and, at the second shot, hit the larger REFLECTIONS. 49 elephant, who shook himself. U])on this, a smaller one, which stood under another tree, took to his heels ; and then all fled away. This region apparently abounds in wild beasts. We bought a zebra-hide for live needles and a few pepper- corns. The zebra was said to have been killed here- abouts ; and our people pretended to have heard the voice of one last night. We got plenty of milk to-day, for needles, pepper, and snuff. The people were par- ticularly eager for the snuff. All day we are surrounded by people : their conduct, however, is not at all extra- vagant. It is a pity that we cannot declare to them the tidings of the Gospel. Thermometer, at half-past four P.M., 102". May 26, 1839 : Lord's Day — To-day we have again had an undesired-for day of rest ; as the caravan whicli we joined the day before yesterday have desired our people to stay here till they obtain some camels, for which they have sent to a neighbouring village. As we objected to staying, our people observed, that we were under some obligation to the caravan, as they had first waited for us, in order that we might travel together through this dangerous country ; so we have agreed to wait till this afternoon, and then to proceed, should the caravan obtain the camels or not. They are all in gi'eat fear; because yesterday three Mudaitus wci'c here, whom they apprehendcid to be spies. The German hymn, " My Saviour receiveth sinners," is now continually upperaiost in mind; and it is particu- D 50 PLAIN OF BERDUDA. larly consolatory for me to know that the blood of Jesus Christ cleanseth me from all my innumerable sins which still cleave to me. To whom could I direct myself, in order to find rest and safety, if this blood did not con- stantly speak better thijigs than that of Abel ? The tvhole head is sick, and the ivhole heart faint. Sancti- fication advances so slowly, that it seems rather to re- trograde. Nevertheless, the Lord has called me to glorify Him before the world. The constant necessity of insisting upon the fulfil- ment of the stipulated agreements with om- fellow-tra- vellers, in order to prevent unnecessary delay, gives much nourishment to the natm-al man, and many occa- sions for the excitement of unholy passions. This, however, is our consolation, that the Lord is ever ready to receive us back, and does not take away from vis His Holy Spirit — the spirit of faith, of power, and disci- pline. — Thermometer yesterday evening, near nine o^ clock, 73°: this morning, after sunrise, 66*. The night was pretty cool, although the day was hot : ten minutes past eleven, 104o, Diseases of the eyes are vei-y com- mon in this country, no doubt occasioned principally by the dust, with Avhich the atmosphere is constantly tilled. A strong whirl of dust came about our tent, and overtm-ned it, just after we had left it. Ma7/ 27, 1839 — Yesterday, at three p.m., we left Little Mullu, and journeyed again over a large plain, which at first we found covered with high grass, and afterward with scattered bushes : the soil on the whole appeared DANKALI TRIBES. 51 fertile. Now and then we met also with an elephant. We marched till half-past eighty and passed the night at Berduda — so another part of this vast plain is called. Here several Bedouins had set up their huts, but most of them left again this morning. Some Chiefs of another Dankali tribe — Takil — came to us, to beg tobacco. This, as it appears, induced our old guide Ali to hasten away the sooner. Other Dankali tribes, inhabiting these regions, are the following : — to the west of the We'emas, the Dabanis, who extend very far; in the district of Ha- muissa, the Mashaikh and Hassoba, among whom also the Takils live. We left Berduda this morning at half-past five, and crossed the other part of the plain, Ilalakdiggi, W^e saw much game, especially large roes, also two ostriches ; and, a little before nine, arrived at a place called Hanni, where we found water and trees, and here reposed. Our people, as well as the caravan who accompany us, are in great fear of an attack, and urge us continually to have our guns in readiness. We occasionally tell them of the necessity of a higher protection ; but all men have not faith in such a protection. Our journey is, after all, very tedious and trying. Our course, at present, is almost due west. The night again cool. Thermometer, at half-past twelve p.m., 100". May 28 — We started at ten minutes ])ast two at night, and marching westward, over a barren part of the plain, soon arrived at Great Halakdiggi : thence we crossed an eminence, shortly after sunrise, from which D 2 52 RIVER HAW ASH. the mountains of Shoa clearly presented themselves to our view. We felt our hearts tuned to praise our God, who had mercifully guided us until now, and brought us so near to the close of our perilous journey. From this eminence we descended into the low country of Little Halakdiggi, where our caravan was to halt. Sheik Ali, however, was for going on ; and he prevailed. After passing through the valley of Little Halakdiggi, we as- cended a hill belonging to the chain of mountains which forms the eastern skirt of the valley of Hawash ; then came down into the deep and wide valley of the Hawash, in which we had been able to discern, from the eminence, some parts of the course of this river. At the foot of the mountain the road lay through a forest of mimosa trees, from which our people collected a good quantity of gum-arabic ; and then encamped on a spot called Debhille, near which the trees on one side of the valley are hung with the nests of small birds, some- times forty to fifty on one tree. Mai/ 29, 1839 — We started at a quarter-past four this morning, and pursuing a south-west course to the Hawash, reached that river at a quarter-past six, by a road winding through a fine forest, abounding with plants and various kinds of animals. Numerous herds of elephants apparently reside in these regions, as we often found the fresh traces of them on our road. We also heard the braying of a zebra, and the noise of hip- popotami by the shores of the Hawash; but saw neither. In crossing the Hawash, I saw some trees crowded with VISIT TO A LAKE. 53 baboons, an animal I had not seen before in Abyssinia. We crossed the Hawash near Melkukuyu. Although this is the dry season, yet the water was from two to four feet deep. The breadth of the channel is about sixty feet ; and the heights of its banks, as far as we could judge, averaged fifteen to twenty feet. Both sides are covered with beautiful forests ; the breadth of which however, in this part, is inconsiderable. The river runs north and north-east. We could not ascertain the situation of its source. The shore to the right is in- habited by the Alias, Ittoos, and Mudaitus; and to the left, by the Danakils, who border on Shoa eastward. From this part, where it has the Argubbas on one side, and the jMudaitus on the other, the river flows as far as Aussa ; and there collects in a vast plain, probably because the land ceases to decline, and forms a large lake, the waters of which either evaporate, which is more probable, or escape by a subterranean outlet. At this place the water is said to be putrid, to emit an offensive smell, and is disagreeable to the taste ; but, on digging near the lake, good water may be obtained. On the maps, which in general mark oui- road incor- rectly, the Ittoos, among other errors, arc made to in- habit the western, instead of the eastern shore of the Hawash, south of om' route : farther south, the Abarras adjoin them ; and still farther, the Alias, and other Galla tribes. At noon, after dinner, we went to see a small lake west of the Hawash, which is about ten miles long and five broad. There we saw as many 54 LAKE LE ADOO. as a hundi'ed hippopotami playing in the water. We fired a few guns at them : after each shot^ they sud- denly plunged into the water; and on coming up again, they blew a stream of water out of their nostrils, like whales, and snorted like horses. There are also many crocodiles in this lake — ^leviathan and behemoth dwelling together. Our people pierced a crocodile nine feet long, which lay in the water near the shore. This region is very prolific for a natm'alist. May 31, 1839 — Yesterday morning, at a quarter-past four, we set off from Melkukuyu, and marched over a hilly track near a small lake, the waters of which have a disagreeable taste and sulphureous smell. On account of its remarkable cleansing quality, our people had washed their clothes very clean in it the preceding day : we could not bestow on it a closer examination. As we proceeded, we first met with a few hysenas, then a zebra, but all beyond the reach of our guns. The region through which we have come is called Dofan. After passing through several forests abounding with game, and rendered lively by the warbling notes of a great variety of birds, about nine we reached a larger lake, in which hippopotami are said to abound ; but we did not see one. Its name is Le Adoo (far-distant water). Thence we pursued our road westward, and alighted about eleven at Asseboti, in a large sandy plain full of acacias. Setting out again at half-past three p. m., we left the caravan behind, and encamped in the evening at Atkonti. On the road we saw several INTERVIEW WITH HAJI ADAM. 55 be'ezas, a fine animal of the size of a cow, and shaped like a deer, with horns, not branching, but upright : their flesh is exquisite. This region resembles a cactus garden. We started at a quarter-past foui- this morn- ing ; and after sunrise entered a fine valley called Ko- kai, with lofty trees, excellent water, abundance of cattle, and a great variety of birds. Mter crossing several hills, the prominences of the highlands of Abys- sinia, which extend from the south far northward, about eight we reached the fi-ontier place, Dinomali ; where we were visited, soon after our arrival, by Soli- man ]\Iussa, the collector of customs, and Abbagaz INIa- homed, the governor of the boundary, who came to inspect our persons and baggage. They were accom- panied by Debtera Tekla Zion, the secretary for the salt-trade. During this transaction, the Haji Adam came, the same man whom Brother Krapf had seen last year in Mocha in the character of royal mes- senger, saying that he was again on his way to Mocha, and had a Letter and a female slave for us : he soon brought both. Om- conscience did not allow us to accept the slave, so she was sent back to Anko- bar. The Letter was directed to me : it respected the King's and my owti former mission ; expressed the King's desire for medicine, a gun, masons, &c., and, if possible, my own personal arrival ; and contained, at the same time, the promise, that all my wishes, which I should present to the King, should be gratified ; but made no allusion to our Missionary labours. This 56 HOUSES OF ANKOBAR. meeting was quite providential, but connected with no small difficulty to us botli. A Letter was now despatched to the King, stating, that the two persons to whom the message of the Haji Adam was directed, had arrived. Quarters were then assigned to us in the village of Farri, till an answer should arrive from the King, when we might pursue om- jommey. June 2, 1839 — To-day we set off fi'om Farri, and began to ascend the high land of Shoa. We crossed a few promontories and valleys, the two rivers Hatshani and J\Ielka Jebdu, and reached a village and district called AHu Amba, situated on a steep rock, where we met the first Christian Governor, Yaunatu, who was glad to receive us as Christians. Here we were obliged to leave our companion Warkieh to rest a little till he should be able to follow us, as he had been suffering for several days from great pain in his back. Ju7ie 3 — To-day we took other porters and asses from this place, Aliu Amba — our jom*ney from Farri being at the King's expense — and ascended the high mountain, on one of the summits of which Ankobar, the capital of the country, is situated. We crossed over a ridge of this mountain, which commanded an extensive view on each side : toward the east, the vast plain over which we had come, and beyond the Hawash ; and toward the west Shoa, to a great distance. We went round one side of the summit on which Ankobar lies, and passed through a part of the town. The houses are constructed chiefly of wood, with thatched roofs, gene- VILLAGE OF METATIT. 57 rally surrounded by a garden, and disposed around the cone in a spiral form. The upper part of the town is hedged in vriih long poles connected by sprigs as by pallisades, and on the top is the King's house, built of stone and mortar, with a thatched roof. The situation, the rich vegetation, in a cool vernal, or almost autum- nal, atmosphere, pvit us in an extasy. The King had given orders that we should be brought quickly to him, and as he was at Angollala, a day's journey from Ankobar, we could not remain. We passed over stony roads, on the side of some mountains, and crossed an elevated valley, through which a crystal rivulet purled which set in motion a mill, the construction of which, had been begun by a Greek mason, named Demetrius, by order of the King, but was not yet completed. We breathed alpine air, and drank alpine water. We then ascended another high mountain, where we met with many alpine plants, and camomile and pennyroyal densely strewed the ground. The top of the mountain was covered chiefly with barley fields, almost ripe for the harvest. We put up at a poor little village, called Metatit, in a straw hut, or rather stable, in which large and small cattle lay mixed together with men, and where the smoke arising from the burning of cow-dung and cane was so offensive, that only the cold without compelled me to sleep in it, while Brother Krapf and Ernst crept into a small round sheep-stall. The ther- mometer dm-ing the night could not have been umch above 40^ D 5 58 INTERVIEW Ju7ie 7, 1839 — This morning we left Metatit^ and pursuing our road westward, over undulating table-land, halted about one o'clock p. m. in a raised valley near Islam Amba, where the King's tent, of an oblong form, and of black coarse stuff, was already pitched to re- ceive him, who was expected to come this way, and to pass the night here on his jom-ney from Angollala to Ankobar, to a tescar (anniversary) of the death of his father, Wussen Segged, who died twenty-eight years ago. AYe were not long encamped before we saw a train of horsemen coming down the mountain westward, and in the midst of them the King, over whose head a scarlet canopy was carried. He had no sooner arrived in his tent than he sent for us. We had prepared our presents, and with palpitating hearts entered his tent, where he sat on a small di^'an covered with silk, and received us mth kindness. Oui* names were already kno^vn among his people ; and a messen- ger whom he had once sent with Kiddam Mariam to Gondar to meet us, inquired after JMr. Blumhardt. I first presented to him the Letter of Colonel Camp- bell, which I had translated into Amharic on board the vessel : he perused it ^^"ith attention. We then de- livered oui' presents, among which the beautiful copy of the Amharic New Testament and Psalms particu- larly pleased him. He seemed to intimate, however, that he would have preferred ^thiopic books to Anilia- ric. He asked if we had ^^Titten and bound these books. He put the same question to Mr. Krapf when WITH THE KING. 59 he presented him his double-barrelled gun. We rc- phed, that in our country every one pm-sues his parti- cular profession, and that our vocation was exclusively the preaching of the Gospel, in which capacity we were alone sent out to this country ; but that besides this, we wished also to instruct his people in other useful branches, and were ready to assist such as should re- quire and wish it, with medical aid to the best of our knowledge. We m-ged, however, that this latter was not om' object, except as a means to fui'ther the know- ledge of Christ. He then ordered all the attendants to depart, and explaining to us his bodily ailments, asked whether we could relieve him. ^Ye promised gladly to do for him whatever lay in our power ; but added, that the result did not so much depend on the remedies as on the blessing of God, for which we wovdd pray. He then observed, that with regard to our principal object, he would have further conversation with us in future, as there were a gi-eat many things to be considered re- lative to this subject ; for the present, he wished only to see and salute us, and was very glad that we were here. He ordered us in the meanwhile to go to our tent and repose, and the follo^nng day to proceed to Angollala, where he would see us again immediately after his return from Ankobar. We were gratified with the reception we met with, and although the King did not for the present enter into om* principal object, wc have sufficient reason to thank God. He commanded his people to serve us, to treat iis as his guests and 60 ARRIVAL AT ANGOLLALA. friends, and to provide us with every thing necessary. He also gave us a servant, who had strict orders to keep off from us all importunate people, that we might not be annoyed in any way. June 8, 1839 — This morning, very early, the King started with his suite for Ankobar, and we proceeded to Angollala, where we arrived at two p.m. Not long after, the King came back, immediately assigned to us a dwelling, and sent us a cow, which we killed. June 9 : Lord's Day — Very early this morning we were called by the King, who asked us for medi- cine. We told him, that our particular business was to teach and preach the Gospel, and that we were no learned physicians ; but that if he desired, we would assist him with medicine according to the best of om* knowledge. At the same time we took the opportunity to request him to give us a number of boys, in order that we might instruct them in the doctrines of the Bible, and in other useful branches of knowledge. He promised to comply ■v\'ith our request. We thought it as well to make this application, in order to show him, at the commencement of our stay in his country, the good intentions we have for the welfare of his people. June 10 — Very early in the morning we were again called by the King, who repeated his desire for medical assistance. Om- conversation yesterday ha\ing turned to geographical subjects, we took with us to-day a globe and maps, to give him an idea of Geography. He was pleased with all that we explained to him ; but at last TRIBE OF THE ABEDTSHOO GALLAS. 61 he said, that he was too old to study such subjects. \Mien we had retired to our lodging, Beru, the favoui-ite boy of the King, came to us and said, that we should not give medicine to anybody, else the people would come and molest us very much. June 12 — This afternoon we made our acquaintance with Maretsh, an influential Governor of the tribe of the Abedtshoo Gallas. As we wdsh to become acquaint- ed with the Galla people, we were glad to know him. He asked for medicine, which IMr. Isenberg promised to give him, if he would adhere to the diet which he prescribed to him. But as he refused to do this, he did not receive any medicine. The tribe of Abedt- shoo has its seat in the neighbom-hood of Angollala, from which place it is separated by the river Tshatsha. In the house of Maretsh we met with several boys, one of whom, Wolda Gabriel, expressed his wish to come to us for instruction. We asked him what he knew about Jesus Christ, and why he was called a Christian. He was confused, and said, " I do not know ; but I wish to be instracted by you." Mr. Isenberg then briefly related to him the history of Christ. This boy came several times afterward ; but at last he excused himself, saying, that he had business in the service of the King, and left ofi" coming for instruction, like many others, who came expecting to receive medicine, clothes, strings of silk, which they use in sign of their Chris- tian faith, scissors, knives, needles, &c. Begging is 62 JLiDICIAL PROCEEDINGS. not SO frequent in Slioa as it is in Tigre ; but in gene- ral they liave the same character. We have had several interviews with the King the last three days. He wishes to make use of us as phy- sicians, architects, artists, &c. However, we told him that if we served him in these things to the extent of our power, which was veiy limited, we shoidd do it only for the sake of the Lord and His Gospel ; and requested him to give us an opportunity to preach the Gospel, and to instruct the youth. His usual reply is, " I know this, and shall consult with you about it by and bye." June 13, 1839 — This morning we met with the King at the place of judgment. He was sitting on an elevated spot, and the persons, who had complaints or business were standing at the entrance of the King's house. Four Judges sit to hear the complaints of the people, and decide upon them. If their decision should not please the King, he himself decides. In giving judg- ment, he spends several days every week. Ha\'ing seen the manner in which the King gives judgment, we were then introduced to his workmen. Blacksmiths, weavers, and other tradesmen are gathered mthin a large place, where each of them performs the piece of work assigned to him; which, having finished, he is obliged to show to the King, who, if not pleased with it, orders him to improve it. Thus the King could in a short time improve the state of arts in his kingdom, if he had a few skilful tradesmen from Europe. INSTRUCTION IN GEOGRAPHY. 63 June l-i — 16 — Since the King gave orders to us not to give away medicine^ we have been hke prisoners, not being able to converse with any one. However, we yield to these circumstances, if the King will only send us boys to instruct. In the meantime, we are not without business. I am occupied with iEthiopic and Amharic studies, and Mr. Isenberg is writing about Geography. Several days ago, the Alaca (director) of the Chm-ch of INIedhanalim at Ankobar was sent by the King, to study our language. Mr. Isenberg began to instruct him ; but after several lessons, he expressed his wish to be taught Geography. We had rather in- troduce to him biblical studies ; but his mind is still not di-awn to the great subjects of the Holy Scrip- tures. The name of this Alaca is Wolda Serat. It is remarkable, that we should have at first to do with an iUaca of a jNIedhanalim Church. At Adowah, the Alaca of Medhanalim, was the man who endeavoured to ex- pel us from the country ; and in Shoa, an Alaca of Medhanalim is our first scholar. Geography, it is true, is not enough to enlighten the Abyssinian people ; but we must act as circumstances require. If we cannot preach the Gospel in a direct way, wc must do it in- directly. To the various branches of knowledge. Scrip- ture truth may in many ways be legitimately connected. All is ours, if we are Christ's, who will in His own time open a way for freely preaching His word. June 17 — This morning, Beru, the King's boy, came, asking us, in the name of his master, whether 64 INSTANCES OF THE we understood liow to prepare sugar and brandy. We answered as on a former occasion, and repeated our request to receive boys for the pui'pose of in- structing them; and that we would then serve the King as far as we could. Bern went away ; but re- turned immediately to fetch our kitchen-vessels, which the King wished to see. At the same time, he longed for a European dish, and begged us to wTite down as far as we knew how to prepare one. Having answered that we could not meddle with such matters, we re- quested our servant to serve the King in this respect. He was immediately called to prepare a dinner. The King is anxious to get from Europeans all that he sees and hears. It is, however, to be regretted, that he only endeavom's to consult his own personal ad- vantage and comfort, without reflecting upon the wel- fare of his people. Well qualified mechanics of all kinds are well received by the King; but they dare not expect European wages. They receive their daily maintenance, but that is all. I am sure that skilful artisans who are real Christians, would render great services to our Mission. How much the King seeks after his own interest, the following instances will prove. No man in Shoa, except the King, is allowed to prepare the Abyssinian hydromel, which is called Zatsli — prepared from water, honey, and a plant, named zadoa. Fm'thermore, an Albanese, whose name is Johanes, who was formerly a Mahomedan, and turned a Christian in Shoa, built a bridge over the /^.V king's selfishness. 65 river Beresa ; but nobody^ except the King, is allowed to pass over it, even at the rainy season. This year fom* persons have been drowoied in the river. Farther, he levies high customs upon goods. From ten pieces of salt, he takes one ; from ten dollars, one is paid to him. By these measm-es commerce is stopped. Demetrius, a Greek, built a mill ; but nobody can use it. These are only a few instances among many others which might be mentioned. But it is to be hoped, that the King will discontinue such measures, when he has become more acquainted with Em'opeans. At present he is too narrow-minded, follo-snng the principles of all other rulers of Abyssinia. In some respects, he is inferior to them ; attacking, for instance, a Galla tribe without sufficient reasons, taking their property, and selling the captives as slaves to Tad- jm*ra. He repeats this cruel custom every year, when the rainy season is over. In this manner he has en- larged his dominions. The country which he has taken in war, is said to be thirty times greater than Shoa itself. To-day I sent the Amharic Spelling Book to the King, which I had finished yesterday. The King wishes for many things from us : he seems only disposed to decUne accepting the one thing needful. As he in- tends to set out after to-morrow on an expedition, we have urged him to give us previously a decision, as to how far he would assist us in our work, and to give us four or six bovs for instruction. 66 FESTIVALS OF ST. MICHAEL June 18, 1839 — To-day is a festival of the Abys- sinians, that of St. Michael. On this clay the King gives clothes to his slaves, who are several hundi'eds in number. IVIany persons came before our house, begging for clothes. We offered them bread, which they refused to accept : others begged for medicine. June 19 — On learning that the King is about to leave Angollala, we repeated our request for boys to instruct them. He sent word, that he would send them from the city he intended to build in the tribe of the Abed- tshoo. Bekoo, the Governor of the Galla tribe, called Adai, applied for medicine, being tormented, as he ima- gined, by a bad genius. Mr. Isenberg bled him, after which he felt better ; but he soon fell back into his former state, which increased so much, that his people were compelled to tie him. June 20 — This morning the King set out to build a city. We took leave of him on the road. Observing us, he stood still a moment, and said, " How do you do ? " We praise God that He has disposed the heart of the King toward us. Before he left Angollala, he sent his boy several times, who said, that the King con- sidered us as his relations : yea, as brethren ; and that, henceforth, we should make him acquainted with all our requests, and he would attend to them. Knowing the expressions of the Abyssinians, we do not lay too much stress upon them ; however, we see his good feelings toward us. He has sent to us from time to time, a sheep, or a cow, or something else. As all the people of AND KIDAN MEHERAT. 67 the King are obliged to go wdtli liim, several boys, with whom I had begun to read the Gospel of St. INIatthew, have left our instruction. Knowing how little can be done in instraction, if boys are not continually with us, we lu'ged the King many times to send boys with whom we could begin a regular course. The Alaca Wolda Serat comes every day, being much pleased with Geo- graphy. He is possessed of a good memory, and of much understanding ; but his heart is still far from the truth of the Gospel. June 21 — To-day it rained for the first time since our arrival in Shoa. Strong whirls of dust had pre- dicted its approach. We learned to-day, that the King is building a city, which he intends to call "■ Salaish.^^ When he builds a new city, he causes a long trench to be dug around the place where he mshes to build ; then constructs a wall, builds several houses of wood, and delivers the city to a new governor, having with him a number of soldiers. In this manner, the King intends to secui'e his frontiers against the inroads of the Gallas. Thus Angollala itself has arisen. New settlers arrive, a church is built by the King, and a large village is seen in a short time. June 22 — This day is the feast of Kidan Meherat. Several learned Abyssinians say, that God appeared in paradise before iVIary, and made a covenant with her, in consequence of which she should redeem the world. Others say, that Christ made this covenant with His mother, in the month of Februaiy, during the time of 68 CONVERSATION sixteen days. How little do this people know of the real covenant of grace, which God has made from the beginning with mankind to bless it in Christ ! June 24, 1839 — This morning I i-equested my mule from Ayto Melkoo, the master of the horse ; to whose care the King had committed our mules. He refused to send it however, without having a special order from the King. Thus we are not masters of our property. Every thing, even the most trifling, is subject to the will of the King. A cup of wmo. cannot be given to a foreigner without his command. He has at present about two hundi'ed persons, who receive their daily maintenance from him. The daily maintenance is called Dirgo. June 26 — The Alaca Wolda Serat told us this morn- ing, that the Abyssinians are of opinion, that St. Mat- thew \^Tote his Gospel in Hebrew, St. Mark in Latin, and St. Luke and St. John in Greek. He then asked, whether we believed that Adam was seven years in the garden of Eden. We replied, that we did not know, as the Scriptm'es say nothing about it ; and that we did not acknowledge their book Senafehat, on which that opinion rests, as divinely inspired. AYe took this op- portunity of showing the great difference there is be- tween the Word of God, and that of men ; and how dangerous it is to mix both together. Our confession that we did not know, and that we are in these things not so wdse as the Abyssinians, who have another Bible than we have, confused him very much. When he went ON FASTING. 69 away, a priest of Biilga called upon us, asking imme- diately — as most Abyssinians do — about fasting. We told him, that we did not forbid fasting, if a man felt himself disposed so to do ; that we declared it a great sin, if a man sought for his righteousness by fasting, as our justification comes only from the merit of Christ, which we apprehend by faith, resigning all our ot\^i work ; and that if we seek our justification before God by fasting and other exercises, Christ would not then be our complete SaAaom*. The priest answered, " But Christ fasted j therefore we must do the same." I said, that Christ's fasting was meritorious ; that He did not command that we in all things should do the same, else we should also be obliged to die on the cross as he had done. We cannot follow Him in all that He did; because He acted, in many cases, as oiu- Mediator ; and that what He did as such, we have only to accept with a real faith, and to praise Him for the same. He requires, that we mourn for our sins, — that we seek His grace and the Holy Spirit, — that we flee from all sin, and hate all sinful thoughts, words, and works ; because these have caused numberless pains to Him in His meritorious fasting for us. Furthermore, Christ does not require that we should die on the cross, but that we should die to the sin which is in om- hearts. This is the real fast and the death which He requires from eveiy behever in Him. ^Ye then explained to him Matthew ix. 14 — 18., which we usually do, if the matter is about fasting, remarking, that a real believer 70 CONVERSATION ON FASTING. does not follow the pharisees^ who fasted in order to be justified ; but that he followed Christ and His disciples — that Christ, the heavenly bridegroom, is in the hearts of believers, and always with them — that they look upon His merits, and know what He has done for them, and therefore they cannot mom-n ; but that if they mourn for their weakness and sinfulness, they know that they have an advocate ivith the Father, Jesus Christ the righteous. If they mom-n that they do not feel the presence of their master — as the Apostles mom-ned when their master was given into the hands of sinners — they know that He will come again and say to them, Peace he ivith you. "WTien Christ w^ent to heaven, it did not follow that He is not now wdth us, and therefore that we should fast, as the Abyssinians endeavom* to prove by the above-mentioned passage ; and that Christ is not far from us, but He is in om* hearts, if we accept Him in faith. But the Abyssinians, who have not Christ by faith, mourn as if He were far off, crucifying their flesh, not knowing the joy and peace of Christ ; and as if, by the mortification of their flesh, they would produce their reconciliation wdth God, which Christ had fully effected ; that the Abyssinians connect then* own righteousness with that of Christ, vmite Christ with Moses, grace mth the law, and the Spirit \nth the flesh ; and that they are like those who put new wine into old bottles, and new cloth on an old garment, where the rent is made worse ; as we see with the Abyssinians, who, though they mortify then- flesh by fasting, are ABYSSINIAN CHRONOLOGY. 71 living in all the sins of the flesh — in all fornication and lasciviousness. June 27, 1839— This day it rained very much. I felt my heart in a confused state, and longed for the grace of heavenly rain. June 28 — I asked the Alaca Wolda Serat about the country of Sidama, mentioned by Mr. Gobat in his Jom-nal. He told me, that he did not know any thing about that country; but that he thought it was Segama, from which country many slaves are brought to Shoa. He then asked about om- chronology. I told him that we count 4004- years before Christ. The Abyssinians, he said, count 5500 years before Christ, which they prove from Luke i. 26, And, in the sixth month, the angel Gabriel was sent from God unto Mary. I said, that I did not wonder at such an opinion, as the Abys- sinians had not a sound exposition of Scriptm-e to rely upon, as they either followed human books, or wTcsted the sense of the passages of the Bible. I then referred him to the genealogy in Genesis v. June 30 : Lord's Day — I went this morning to the church. We think it necessary to go often, partly that they may not accuse us as despisers of their chiu'ch ; partly to become acquainted with the people and priests; and partly that we may become well acquainted with the manner of their worship. On coming to the door of the church, I was obliged to pull off my shoes. Having entered the church, I was requested to sit at the side of the Alaca, and received a long stick, which 72 ABSURD STORY. the priests cany with them, and on which they lean in church. All that they do in chm-ch, is to make a ter- rible bawling, which they call singing. Their hymns are contained in a book called Degua, which book is composed by an ancient teacher of their church, whose name is Fared, from Samien. In singing, they frisk and dance, beat together with their sticks, then with cymbals and di'ums. Their bawling is interrupted by reading a portion of Scripture. In fact, the whole seems to be rather a play than worship. July 1, 1839 — Very early this morning, I heard a loud cry in the neighbourhood of our house. On ask- ing what it was, I was told, that there were several persons who wished to make their complaints known to the King. They cried, Abiet ! Abiet ! It is the duty of the King's counsellors, who are called Wanberotsh, that is Deputies, to carry the complaints of the people before the King. In general, the four Wanberotsh decide themselves ; but they must always bring their decision before the King, who in other cases, relies upon them as his Deputies. With the cry, Abiet ! Abiet ! the Abyssi- nians connect a strange story. They say that the devil, on the day of judgment, mil cry in the same manner ; when the Lord will ask him what he requires from Him. The devil will answer, that the angels have taken from him a number of souls who belonged to him ; when the Lord will ask him their names, to which he will reply, "I do not know." The Lord vn\[ then answer, "If thou dost not know the name of the thieves, I cannot help thee.'' CITY OF BULGA. 73 Since the King returned to Angollala^ several boys have returned to us for instruction ; but the King did not perform his former promise of sending boys. July 2 — This forenoon, a servant of Berkie, the Go- vernor of Bulga, came to us asking for medicine. His master is a Gebi, that is, a favourite of the King. Bulga is a considerable city on the southern frontiers of Shoa, and the capital of the province, vt^hich is called Fatigar on our maps. It is a day's journey from Ankobar to Bulga. How slowly our work is going on ! The people are seeking help only for the body, without reflecting much on the salvation of the soul. We take refuge in the precious Word of God, and hear the Prophet complaining about the same. / have laboured in vain, and have spent my strength for nought, and in vain ; yet surely my judgment is with the Lord, and my work ivith my God. Isaiah xlix. 4. July 5 — We were called by the King, begging us to give him a medicine which should secure him against being wounded in war. Wc replied, that we did n(jt know a medicine of this kind ; and that our people obtained victory by trusting in God, by keeping a good discipline in the army, and by employing skilful com- manders. This caused a short exposition respecting military exercises in our country. He was much pleased on being informed about the formation of our quarries. The conversation then turned to the subject of our steamers, locomotives, and rail-roads. He expressed £ 74 VILLAGES OF ANGOLLALA. his astonishment at these works of human hands. After all, he apphed for magic sentences against sick- ness. Mr. Isenberg rephed, that this was a great sin, and entirely useless ; and that it was the duty of every sick person to put his confidence in God, and to use such remedies as God has given to men. July 6, 1839 — A man from Tigre, whose name is Akaloo, called upon us this afternoon. He has been several years in Shoa, and is often sent by the King to Gondar, and other places of Abyssinia. I learned from him, that in the neighbourhood of Ankobar, in a grove, there are a number of persons, about forty, who are followers of a sect called Tabiban. I suppose that they are Jews, of the sect of the Falashas in Am- hara. The people of Shoa are in great fear of them, like the people of Amhara, who consider the Falashas as sorcerers. Every skilful man in Shoa is called Ta- bib. I shall give more information of the Tabiban hereafter. July 7 : Lord's day — The Lord was near to my heart this morning in reading His Word. Though we are without the blessings which our European brethren have on this day, yet the Lord is not far from us when seeking after Him in humble prayer and meditation on His Word. The Apostle John, who was banished from the society of his brethren to the desolate Isle of Patmos, urns there in the spirit on the Lord's day. July 8 — On inquiring this afternoon after the names IXSTRUCTIXG ALACA SERAT. 7o of the villages around AngoUala, I received the follow- ing information : 1 . To the west is a village called Tsherkos. 2. Tophit to the north. 3. Daletsha to the north-east. 4. Koni biet, where formerly Gallas have been, who were converted by the present King of Shoa. 5. Mutingensa. As nobody was with us, I began to read the Introduction to the Holy Scriptures, published by the Rev. Mr. Huber, of Basle. A well wTitten book of this kind in Amharic would be very useful to us. I may also remark, that a number of well written books in Amharic would be very desirable. It is not sufficient to put the Bible only into the hands of the people ; they are in want of books to illustrate its doctrines, else they read it only in the false hght of their traditions. If Messrs. Isenberg and Gobat could be charged by the Committee dui'ing their stay in Europe, to satisfy this want in some measure, a great senice would be rendered to the Mission in Shoa. To-day it is one month since om* arrival at Angollala, and to-morrow the King has settled that we should go to Ankobar. To-morrow we shall probably go as far as Debra Berhan, and from thence to Ankobar. Since I wrote the precechng, the King has employed me in instructing Alaca Serat — chief of the Church at Medhanalim, in Ankobar — whom he sent to us in- stead of the boys we had applied for, requesting us to instruct him. Upon asking the Alaca what he wished to learn, he said that he wished us to teach him our language. I began therefore teaching him English ; £ 2 76 AKALOO DESIRES INSTRUCTION. but then I discovered that his next object was merely the learning the names of the letters in the Amharic alphabet. Those names are given in Ludolf s Gram- mar, but are at present very seldom known in Abys- sinia ; so that it appears to them a new thing. After I had given him those names, I took the Bible to read with him. He then said, he knew that : he wished to learn something that he did not know. I then began instructing him in geography, for which purpose I commenced translating Frank's Geography, contracting some parts, and enlarging upon others ; giving the Alaca, every day, one or two lessons in geography, and a few lessons in English. He takes an interest in geography. In the translation, I have arrived at the end of Europe ; and in teaching, I am come to Prussia. I endeavour to render even this a means of communi- cating the Gospel to him, continually praying that the Lord may open his eyes : it is difficult to penetrate through the thick veil of his mind. When treating on parts of the Scriptures, he has always several expla^ nations at hand ; so that the word does not impress him. At the same time he is rich, and increased with goods, and seems to have need of nothing. May the Lord open his heart ! A Tigrcan, of the name of Akaloo, frequently comes to us, saying, that he wishes to learn ; and expressing himself ready to accept every thing good that we may say to him. Yesterday and to-day the Lord enabled me to Itiy before him the subject of his salvation : GOOD WILL OF THE KING. 77 yesterday, by removing every pretext for excuse, and applying the parable of our Lord on the talents entrusted ; and to-day, by especially urging on him the necessity of a real conversion, and of prayer to God for the enlightening of his mind. As for the King, he continually gives proofs of his good will toward us, sho\^^ng at the same time, however, that it is in his temporal interest that he wishes to profit from what we know of the arts. On this account, he has several times applied to om- European servant to try what he knows. My knowledge of medicine does not entirely answer his desires, because he cannot take his usual diet when using medicine; nor does he receive any charming promises from me : on the contrary, he is told that the practice of medicine is with us only an incidental thing, not our chief object, although we have gained his confidence from some successful cases where we had administered medicine to others. At our last interview with the King, he promised, at our request, to send us boys to instruct them when at Ankobar. Our chief en- deavours are directed to our calling as Missionaries, and therefore we have been able at present to make but few enquiries into the nature of the country. Oui* external condition is rather singular : the King treats us quite as his guests, sending us daily our maintenance into our house, and has ordered our Guardian* to keep all * The Minister of Foreign Affairs, as you would call him, of the King of Shoa, has about 300 men in his service, who are to serve foreigners, and to be employed in messages for the King. These men are called Al- 78 GALLA TRIBES. troublesome persons away from us. By this means we are not molested by disagi*eeable calls ; but, on the other hand, we are also prevented from frequently preachmg the Gospel iti season and out of season. We have, however, obtained a promise from the King, that such persons are not to be prohibited who express a desire to be instructed by us. The air here is pure, and the climate very fresh : the temperature varies from 47° to 60^ Fahrenheit, and since the middle of last month we have had rain once or t^\ice every day. At that time the King went to Salaish, where he made the first preparations for the building of a new town, remained there one week, and then returned hither to Angollala. The language of this country has some dialectical difference from the Amharic, as spoken in Amhara and Tigre, several sounds being different, and several words having a different signification. I write as much as I can of the Dictionary, noting down the differences. July 11, 1839— The Tribes of Gallas to the south of Shoa, which are tributary to the King of Shoa, are: 1. Abedtshoo ; 2. Adai; 3. Soddo; 4. Abbo; 5. Sebauj 6. Tshidda; 7. Afsala; 8. Golan; 9. Mesta; 10. Maitsha. Betsho and Ferrer, Avhich are in the south, are not tributary. Thus I am informed by the son of Bekoo, Governor of the tribe Adai. July 12 — This afternoon we went on an excursion to frotsh — Affro, in the singular, which I have rendered " Guardian," not having been able to ascertain the exact meaning of the term. RIVER TSHATSHA. 79 see the before-mentioned river Tsliatsha^ situated about four miles from Angollala. We saw one of its cata- racts, about seventy feet in height. On the way I saw, for the first time, Enset, a nice plant, which is described in Bruce^s Travels. The Abyssinians use it in baking bread, which is wrapped in it, and gives to it a particular scent, which I do not like. The water of the Tshatsha runs in a deep dale between two mountains. The rivers Beresa and Tshatsha are said to go to the Nile. The Tshatsha separates the Gallas from Shoa. Thus we are on the frontiers of the heathen. The Lord grant that this heathenish nation, which has its seat in the centre of Africa, may soon become a people of God ! I hum- bly and urgently beg the Committee to give their help- ing hand to this nation. The way to a great part of the Gallas is accessible since the way to Shoa has been opened. The access to the Gallas is easier from Shoa than from any other place. We know about forty tribes of them by name. A great number of them are tribu- tary to Shoa. The Gallas are in a low state of heathen- ism. They have not priests, like other heathens ; but are opposed to the introduction of a new religion. They know only about a Being, whom they call Wake. They have no system of religion. On par- ticular occasions, they sacrifice a cow, or sheep, to the Wake ; but they are not directed to do so by priests : it is a free-will offering. The language is common to all Gallas. All these things seem to facilitate a Mission among them. A particular reason for attempting a 80 ARRIVAL AT jMission among the Gallas is, because we do not know what may be the result of om- INIission in Shoa. There is a village, called Tsherkos, on the Tshatsha, where, four years ago, the Christians were killed by a Gover- nor, who hav-ing fallen out with the King of Shoa, raised the Gallas against him. At fii'st, he attempted to assassinate the King ; but his son detected the pro- fligate design of his father before it was executed. July 13, 1839— To-day is the feast of the Abyssinians, called Selassie, at which time the King retm-ns to Anko- bar. We were therefore ordered to set out from An- gollala. We left this place with mixed feelings. On the one hand, we praised God that He had inclined the heart of the King of this country toward us ; and, on the other hand, we were dissatisfied mth the little work which we had been able to perform in om- holy object. But we walk hy faith, not by sight. We hope that oxu- means of usefulness will increase at Ankobar, and pray the Lord to open us a door to preach His Word. AVe set out from AngoUala about ten o'clock ; but being unable to reach Ankobar, we passed the night in a village called Metatit, on the Chacka mountain, about five miles from Ankobar. An old man received us into his house, in which men and animals were living together, and in a smoke which nearly suffocated us. July 14 — Tliis morning we arrived in safety at An- kobar. As we were about to enter the town, we were stopped by the people of the Governor, who told us that we must wait till the Governor had been informed ANKOBAR. 81 of our arrival, and had given orders for us to enter. A foreigner cannot enter Ankobar without having received orders from the Governor. A messenger after- ward came from the Governor, and conducted us to our dwelling. E 5 PART II. RESIDENCE AT ANKOBAR. CHAPTER I. ARRIVAL OF THE KING AT ANKOBAR — INTERVIEAV WITH HIM— PARTI- CULARS OF THE GALLA TRIBES TO THE NORTH OF SHOA — GUEBRA GEORGIS EXPRESSES A WISH FOR INSTRUCTION — VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE— PARTICULARS 0F THE KING OF SHOA AND HIS FAMILY — ABYSSINIAN FASTS — ACCOUNT OF THE SECT OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF COMMENCES A VOCABULARY OF THE GALLA LANGUAGE- ORIGIN OF THE NAME OF ANKOBAR — OPINIONS RESPECTING THE WOR- SHIP OF THE VIRGIN MARY — CONVERSATION WITH PRIESTS OF DEBRA LIBANOS RESPECTING THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST — SHOAN MEA- SURES AND RATES OF BARTER — LEAP-YEAR OF THE ABYSSINIANS— — PARTICULARS RESPECTING THE GURAGUE COUNTRY — LIST OF -ETHI- OPIC BOOKS — FEAST OF TECLA HAIMANOT — VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. MICHAEL — ABVSSINIANS' NEW YEAR — GALLA TRIBES IN THE SOUTH OF GURAGUE— CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON CHRONOLOGY — STRANGE STORY — VISIT TO DEBRA BERHAN — INTERVIEW WITH THE KING VISIT TO TEGULET, THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF SHOA. July 15, 1839 — This morning the King arrived at Ankobar : we paid our respects to him on his way to his house. July 16 — To-day the King sent his boy, requesting to know whether we understood how to stamp dollars. In reply, we begged to be introduced to the King. On GALLA TRIBES NORTH OF SIIOA. 83 appearing before hinij we said, as on a former occasion, that we were messengers of the Gospel interfering with no other business, and consequently were not qualified for coining money; but that if he gave orders, we should be glad to serve him, by T\Titing to om* friends in Eui'ope, who would render him every assistance they could, if he did not prevent us from teaching in his country. At the same time, Mr. Isenberg acquainted him of his resolution of leaving Shoa in the month of October, to go to Em'ope, where he would communicate to our fi'iends the wish of the King. He approved of all that we said. Having retired to our house, the King's boy came and conducted us to another house, in which the father of the King had formerly dwelt. We were very glad of this change, having been much molested by the people at our first house. On entering oui' new house, a ]\Iahomedan, whose name is Nasir, from a Galla tribe, called Daue, called upon us. He is the son of the Governor of his tribe, whose name is Abbe. He said, that Beroo, the ruler of Argobba, having taken from his father all his land, had fled for refuge to the King of Shoa, who restored him to his former power ; but that his country was tributary t(j Shoa. This man gave me the following information respecting the Gallas dwelling in the north of Shoa. The capital city of Beroo, the ruler of Argobba, who is dependant on Gondar, is Aineh, on the TshafFa river, which is called Bcrkona by the people of Shoa. The Tshaffa comes from the west, and sends its water to the 84 GUEBRA GEORGIS. Hawash, in the country of Adel. The Tshaffa river — so called by the Gallas — separates the northern Gallas from Shoa. There are the following Tribes : 1. Dane; 2. WoUo; 3. Wara; 4. GafFra; 5. Wotshale; 6. Sako; 7. Bottolloj 8. Tehuladere; 9. Gille ; 10. Assallo ; 11. Assubo; 12. Lagagora ; 13. Gama ; 14. Sagambo; 15. Kallola; 16. Fctshoo; 17. Ittoo ; 18. Karaiu ; ] 9. Arrusi ; 20. Tcherker. The last four Tribes are in the cast of Shoa. Nasir had a Christian boy with him, who wished to be instructed by us. The name of this boy is Guebra Georgis, about fourteen years of age. His father is a Debtera — a learned Abyssinian — whose father, Tecla Haimanot, was Alaca of the Church of St. George. I received a good impression of this boy on my first con- versation with him. He is the only boy who has a real desire for instruction. He has a good understanding. His father intends to make him a priest, and to send him to Gondar to be ordained when the Abuna comes. If his heart should be changed by the Holy Spirit, he would become very useful to our Mission. From other information, I learned that the Tshalfa and Berkona are different rivers, which having joined, flow to the Hawash. July 18, 1839 — To-day I commenced instructing Guebra Georgis : I began reading the Gospel of St. Matthew with him. Jidy 22 — In reading with Guebra Georgis, I have got as far as the middle of St. Matthew's Gospel. I have also commenced instructing him in Geography. VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE. 85 To-day is tlie feast of Mariam. Tliis evening a bov, about nine years old, came to our house, saying tliat his father and mother were dead ; that his father had left him only two pieces of salt, which the people of his house had stolen from him ; and that the people, instead of returning his property, had driven him out of the house. Being disappointed of getting boys from the King, we were resolved to receive all who had a real desire for instruction. July 28 .- Lord's day — I went to the Chiu'ch of St. George, and gave a copy of the New Testament to Alaca Wolda Hanna, who thankfully accepted it. July 29 — To-day was a great Tescar in honour of the father of the present King, who died twenty-eight years ago. On this occasion the priests pray in the Church ; and having finished their ceremonies, eat and drink as much as they like. We saw the tomb of the late King. There are a great many images, representing the achievements of the King, and the Gallas whom he himself had killed in war. Buffalos, lions, and leopards, which the King had shot are also seen. The present King had a painter from Gondar to execute these paintings in the Abyssinian style. July SO — This morning the Tabot- Altar — was brought with shouting into the Church of Tecla Hai- manot, built by the present King. This is the second chm'ch which the King has built at Ankobar. Having yesterday taken another boy into our house, a little disturbance arose to-day. Serta Wolda, to whose 86 INSTRUCTION IN SLNGING. care the King commits strangers, having been informed that we had received a second boy, repeatedly charged our servant to prevent persons coming to us. We im- mediately informed the King of these proceedings, and we had the pleasm'e to receive his orders, that nobody who Abashed to be instructed should be hindered coming to our house. Since that time the number of our scholars has increased. I finished to-day the physical part of Geography with Guebra Georgis. He is much pleased with Geography. August \, 1839 — Since I was in the Church of St. George several priests have visited us to talk about re- ligious subjects. Indeed most of the persons who have come to us for that j^urpose are of that church, the reason of which may be, that half a year ago, Alaca Melat was dismissed by the King in consequence of the dis- putes about the second and third births of Christ. The people of St. George believe in two births. August 4 — This afternoon I made the acquaintance of a man whose name is Ai'kadis. His business is to instruct a number of boys — about 100 — in singing. Desiring to get access to his scholars I endeavoured to gain over this man to me. He promised to send his son, about seventeen years of age, to be instructed. The instruction in singing is given in conformity with the book of Fared. If a boy does not like instruction, he is punished by his parents — a custom in Abys- sinia. \Miat a great blessing these boys would become to their country, if they were instructed in the pure knowledge of Christ ! KING OF SHOA's FAMILY. 87 August 5 — A man of our house gave us this morn- ing the following information about the King and his family. Sahela Selassieh became King of Shoa when twelve years of age, and has now reigned twenty-seven years. He is the seventh king of Shoa. The follow- ing is the line of the kings of Shoa: 1. Nagathj 2. Sebashi ; 3. Abie, who took Ankobar in war from the Gallas; -i. Amaha Fesus; 5. Asfa Wassen ; 6. Wussen Segged; 7. Sahela Selassieh, the jjresent king. The King has ten daughters by several \\dves. By his tu-st and favourite vn£e, who is called Besabesh, he has a daughter and two sons. The eldest son is twelve years of age. The male childi*en of the King are kept in prison at Quatsho, on the eastern fi'ontiers of Shoa, in the neighbourhood of Adel. On the death of the King, his eldest son is taken out of prison and in- troduced as king by the ]\Ialatia Agafari — thefii'st door- keeper — whose duty is to crown the King. The new King then puts his brethren in prison, being afraid of distm-bances which they might create against him. This afternoon the King went to Machala Wans, a village about five miles distant from Ankobar, in order to keep the sixteen days^ fasting of the Abyssinians in memory of the Felsat (ascension) of Mary. This fast is called the Felsata fast. August 6 — The above mentioned fast commences to- day. Since the King has withdi-aAvn the prohibition of Serta Wolda, respecting persons coming to us, we have had more people to instruct in the Word of God. I 88 ABYSSINIAN FASTS. called in the afternoon upon Alaca Wolda Serat, and spoke with him about the difference between the Word of God and that of men. I afterward asked him about their yEthiopic books : he gave me a number •of titles. He also said, that the Christians flying from Gragne — a bigoted Mahomedan king of Adel — went beyond the country of Gurague, taking with them books and 600 Tabots (communion tables.) August 7, 1839 — This morning I asked Akaloo, whom I have mentioned before, what the Abyssinians eat when they fast. He answered, that they were only allowed to eat goman, stinging nettles, and dry bread. The present fast is called the fast of Nahasie. Nahasie is our August. Then follows the Hodad fast, in the months of February and March, which lasts 40 days ; after which, in June, the fast of the Apostles, which lasts twenty-five or thirty days; and then the fast of Nineveh, M'hich lasts three days. In the month of December is Tsoma ledat. Otherwise they fast every Wednesday and Friday. Tlie fasts of Felsata, Hodadie, Apostles, as well as those of every week, ai'e imposed on them as a work of necessity. As to keeping of the other fasts it is voluntarily. Thus they pass a great part of the year in fasting, seeking thereby their own righteous- ness. If a person does not fast, he is sepai^ated from the Church ; and if he does not repent, he is not in- terred in the common burial ground. August 8 — This afternoon a man, whose name is Habtu, came to us. As he was reported to bean adherent SECT OF THE TABIBAN. 89 to the sect of the Tabiban, I asked him about them. His relations are followers of that sect. He approved of all that Akaloo had formerly told me about them. Their forefathers, he said, about a thousand years ago, came from Amhara to Shoa, and lived in caves, in the neighbom-hood of Ankobar. They have still three monasteries in Shoa, at Felema, Thalassa, and Deifii. He said that the people of Shoa insult them with nick-names, but that they love God ; that they have the Bible in another language ; and are in possession of other books. I shall go one day to see this strange people. I suppose that they are of the party of the Falashas. To-day was the fast of the childi-en. Childi-en are exempted from fasting till they are twelve years of age, except when they go to the Lord's supper, when they are compelled to fast. Once in the year, that is to-day, they are obliged to take the blessed sacrament. Any one who spits, or plucks off a leaf from a tree, is not admitted to the communion table. They receive a w hite cloth from the church, in which they are enveloped up to the mouth, and stand from morning till the evening, observing the greatest silence; but they do not understand any thing about the ceremony. I asked a boy whether he knew why he took the blessed sacra- ment ; when he replied, because it made him grow. What darkness is spread over this people, both young and old ! As we have many persons coming to us, I much wish that we had a quantity of copies of the Holy Scrip- 90 OPINIONS RESPECTING THE tures in Amliaric. The people seem to understand who we are, and why we have come to their country. August 9, 1839 — I began to collect a Vocabulary of theGaUa Language. The son of Ay to Bekoo called upon us. He said, that there was a queen of a Galla tribe, called Mulofalada, which is in some measure dependant on Shoa. The King is said to have invited her to come to Shoa ; when she replied, that if he wished her to come, he must cover the whole way with silk. She is very rich and strong in war : her name is Tshamieh. At the time of King Abie, a wife being the ruler of a Galla tribe, v/as in possession of this town. Her name was Anko. Hence the name of this tovAoi — Ankobar, that is, the door of the Anko. "Bar" means door. In Shoa, there are fifty-one Abagas, or watchmen of the frontiers. Their duty is to inform the King of the arrival of strangers. They are obliged in general, to secure the boundaries against inroads or other casualties. Herein we may see the margraves of old in Germany. The Abaga of the Mahomedans is called Walasma. Thus, for instance, Walasma Mahomed, Walasma Musa, on the frontiers of Adel. August 10 — A priest from Bulga called upon us this afternoon, saying, that there are two opinions in Shoa respecting the imploring and venerating of Mary. There is a party at Bulga and Manshar, in the province of Fatigar, who say, that Maiy is to be venerated and implored as Christ himself. This party is called "Mesle Wold;'^ that is, (in the iEthiopic) like the Son. WORSHIP OF THE VIRGIN MARY. 91 Another party, which prevails at Ankobar and Debra Libanos, is of opinion that the Son only ought to be implored and venerated. This party is called "Wa lawold magsat/' (only to the Son belongs veneration.) The late Abuna Cj^illus, being asked about this doc- trine, forbid them to dispute about it. He also forbid them to eat tish at the time of fasting. Arkadis, who instructs boys in singing, called upon us again. "N^Tien he left, we gave him a copy of the New Testament. His son comes every day. I am reading with him the Gospel of St. John. With Guebra Georgis I have read the Gospels of St. Matthew, St. Mark, and St. Luke. August 11 — Our coppst, Wolda Zadek, told me, that Efat is divided into Upper and Lower Efat. Mach- food — on our maps falsely called Marfood — belongs to Upper Efat. Alioamba is in Lower Efat. The district of jNIachfood, it is true, has a gi'eat elevation compared with the situation of Ankobar, Alioamba, and its neighbom-hood ; and that may be the real cause of this division. Our Workie told us this evening, that the people of the Habab, in the neighbourhood of Mas- sowah, professed the Christian faith a short time ago ; but that they turned Mahomedans on account of a monk, who forbid them to di'ink the milk of camels, and not being inclined to comply with this, they changed their religion. Most of them have still Christian names. When I was at Massowab, I did not know this, else I should have made inquiries. Perhaps they 93 CONVERSATIONS could be brought back to the Christian faith in its better and pvu-er form. Their language is that of Massowah, which is the iEthiopic in a corrupted state. With Guebra Gcorgis I have finished the Geography of Europe. August 12, 1839— To-day is the feast of the Annun- ciation of Mary. Three priests were here from Debra Libanos, asking about the second and third births of Christ. I read John iii.,and spoke about the regeneration of the sinner. August 13 — The priests of Debra Libanos came again to-day, with several others, asking about the births of Christ. Afterward, a man from Gondar called upon us : his name is Guebra Selassie. I asked him about CafFa and Enarea. He said, that it is ten days' journey from Gondar to Basso on the Nile ; and from Basso to Enarea fifteen days; that cofi"ee is brought from Cafi"a, and civets from Enarea ; and that shells, corals, and pieces of salt are the current money there. This afternoon I called upon Alaca Wolda Selas- sie, of the Chm-ch of Tecla Haimanot in Afcrbeini. His Church was built by the present King. When I returned, I found several people, with whom I read Matt. iii. On reading the passage. And his meat was locusts and wild honey, they said, that John did not eat locusts (anbata), but another meat. They are afraid lest they should make John a Mahomedan, be- cause the Mahomedans eat locusts. Thus they read the Bible in the false light of human traditions. MITII PRIESTS. 93 August 14 — Very early this morning a priest came, wishing to see us, having learn,ed that we had been at Jerusalem. At first we spoke about the corrupt state of the Christians at Jerusalem, and their cpiarrel- ling about trifling things ; afterward about the Jeru- salem above, to which we go by a living faith in Christ, and by worshipping the Father in spirit and in truth ; and, finally, we spoke about the great pride ^dth which pilgrims come back from Jerusalem, thinking them- selves to be saints. A priest then came, reproving lamentations for the dead. He said, that Afawork (Chrysostomus) had also reproved that custom. August 15 — To-day many scholars were here. Three boys from the Church of Medhanalim, several persons from St. Mary, several priests from St. Michael, and the priests of Debi-a Libanos. I read John i. with them. A blind man, who seems to be anxious for insti"uction, was with them. August 16 — I called upon Alaca Wolda Scrat, and asked him why he did not continue to study Geogra- phy. Since he has been at Ankobar he has given up this study. August 18: Lord's Day — This day the Abyssinians celebrate the memory of Christ^s transfiguration on Mount Tabor. I went to the Church of Medhanalim. They call this feast Baala Tabor, or, as the people who have no knowledge call it, " Behu." At night the boys go out taking fiambcaus with them. August 19, 1839 — Our former guide, Mahomed Ali, 9-i SIIOAN MEASURES from the Adail tribe Wema, arrived this afternoon from Tadjurra^ mthout having anything for us. We longed very much to receive money, as all ovu* money was spent ; but we were disappointed. Mahomed Ali in- formed us of the arrival of two Franks at Tadjurra. A priest from Debra Libanos informed iis, that Tecla Haimanot, who is considered as the Reformer of the Abyssinian Church, was born at Bulga, and died at Debra Libanos. The King sent this afternoon an Abyssinian cloth to each of us, saying that it was cold. As we were about to send our servant to the market-place, wc asked him about the measm-es of Shoa. He said, that twenty kuna of grain make a daule ; that one daule of barley is got for two pieces of salt ; and that one daule of wheat is bought for five pieces of salt. In Tigre, sixteen measures make a madega; besides, one measm'e is smaller than a kuna in Shoa. For one piece of salt, three loads of wood are obtained at An- kobar. A Maria Theresa dollar is at present changed for seventeen or twenty pieces of salt. Sometimes a dollar is changed only for eight, ten, twelve, or fifteen pieces of salt. The place where salt-pieces are changed, is Aliaomba, a large village about six miles distant from the east of Ankobar, the inhabitants of whom are nearly all Mahomedans. The place where mules, horses, &c. are bought, is Debra Berhan, about twenty miles to the west of Ankobar. These places are the greatest market-places. At Ankobar, there is a market AND RATES OF BARTER. 95 e\'ery Satiu"day, where you can buy sheep, corn, and sometimes grease and other things. The market- place is without the town, about a mile distant, on the river Aii-ara and the Chacka mountain. About weights I have got no information ; for instance, how many dollars are paid for an ounce of gold. At Gondar, the ounce (wokich) of gold is valued at nine dollars. With regard to establishing a commerce between Shoa and a foreign country, the present cii'cum- stances perhaps appear suitable for it. The way between Shoa and the coast does not occasion great hindi'ances, if the matter could be settled with the people of Adel and the King of Shoa. The trade with mules and horses would be the most promising, as a good mule is here worth about ten or twelve dol- lars, and a good horse eight or nine dollars : on the coast, a mule is worth about twenty-four or twenty-six dollars. Therefore, if merchants would buy them in Shoa, they would derive a good profit. August 20 — The King sent us to-day fifty pieces of salt. We are very thankful for all that the King has given us, as our money is spent. Our clothes, paper, ink, money, and every thing is gone ; and our luggage, which we left at Tadjurra, is not expected to an'ive for three or four months ; and when it does, we have no means to pay for the carriage of it. The Tigi-eans are of opinion that Christ anointed himself. In saying so, they cut off the Holy 96 ABYSSINIAN LEAP-YEAR. Ghost from Christ, by whom He was anointed. They who believe in the three births of Christ say, that Christ, in the womb of Mary, was anointed by the Holy Ghost ; and this they call a third birth. We reply, with reference to Luke i. 35, that the Holy Ghost did not come at that time upon Christ, but upon Mary, whom the power of the Highest over-shadowed ; and consequently, that Mary received the Holy Ghost at that time, and not Christ, upon whom the Spirit of God descended, when He was baptized on the Jordan. Matt. iii. It does not appear that they consider the baptism of Christ as a third birth, as I was of opinion that they did. A priest, called Biesana, is said to have brought from Gondar to Shoa the dispute about the three births of Christ. Respecting the death of Mary, it is said by one party, that she died as an offering for the sins of the world, or at least that she has redeemed 150,000 souls ; others say, that she died to go to rest till she should rise from the dead. We always tell them, that their errors and confusion of opinions arises from neglecting the study of the Bible. August 21, 1839 — A priest, whose name is Guebra Selassie, turned the conversation to the subject of leap- year. He said, that the Abyssinians call the names of their years after the four Evangelists; that in the year of Matthew, of Mark, and of Luke, they add five days to the year ; but in the year of John, they add six days. This addition is called pagmie. The present is the year of John. The Evangelists are the Alacas or GURAGUE. 97 rulers of their years; therefore, if you ask Avheti a mail was born, or when any event happened, they say, in the year of ^Matthew, or Mark, or Luke, or John. This afternoon, a priest of Gui'ague, whose name is Laaka ]\Iariam, eame to us. "VVe asked him about his countiy, when he gave us the f ollowang information . From Ankobar to Bulga it is one or two days' journey; from Bulga to Garague, five or eight days. That in going to Gurague you pass through the country of ten tribes of Gallas : 1. Ferrer; 2. Roggi ; 3. Endote; 4, Adai ; 5. Abboo ; 6. Woretshersa; 7. Tshidda ; 8. Abado. ; 9. Soddo ; 10. Liban and Gumbushoo. You pass the river Hawash in the tribe of Abboo. "When you have passed the Hawash, you come, after several days, to a large lake, called Suai, in which is an island inhabited by monks : there is another lake, in the countiy of the Abboo-Gallas, called Killole; and one called Arsud. The chief Governors of Gurague, are Keroo and Aminoo. Keroo resides at Watsho. Both are tributary to the King of Shoa. Gm*ague is so called on account of its situation. It is on the left, if you look to the west from Gondar. " Gera'' means the left, and " gie '' signifies side : hence on the left side. The greater part of the inhabitants of Gui-ague are Christians ; yet there are many Mahomedans and heathens. The places where there arc Christians, are the following : — 1. Aimellelle ; 2. Nurreno; 3. Besant- shooboo; 4. Manes; 5. Malakdaino; G. Wogoraui ; F 98 PRODUCE OF GURAGUE. 7. Buijana; 8. Foudamo; 9. Datslii; 10. Jettaue; 11. Aretshat; 12. Hebcrrer; 13. Arogomane; 14. Dobi; 15. Fawitui j 16. Jatabona j 17. Sera Sangania; 18. Mohor. The places where Armeni or heathens reside, are: — 1. Mascan; 2. Aborrat ; 3. Fakedar ; 4. Warub; 5. Mans; 6. Sabolas; 7. Faderek; 8. Wum- nan; 9. Allakiro ; 10. Duhaber ; 11. Endagach ; 12. Masmas; 13. Magar; 14. Ener; 15. Asha ; 16. Tshaha; 17. Wollane. The most distinguished mountains of Gurague are : Karra, Kotaltiti, Gafersa, Uttukuf, Make, Teru, Engedokotto, Bodegabab, Dino- koti, Enokaler, and Sert. The principal rivers are : Wiser, in the district of Danu, where the Priest himself was born; Dersaf; Asas ; Sherbanes; Meke, and Jama- rakoadio. Most of these rivers run into the lake of Suai. On the way from Ankobar to the Hawash you pass three rivers ; namely, Akaki, Guratsha, and Furri. The current money in Gurague is salt : dollars do not pass. Knives, scissors, needles, &c., are well received. There is much coffee in Gm-ague; and wine is also produced. Tasma honey, of the most precious kind, is found in the province of Abamada. Their houses are better than those in Shoa. The women of Gurague make carpets from the Ensiete plant, of which I made mention above. There are about thirty-nine monasteries in Gurague. The Galla Tribes beyond Gurague, are the following : — Maroko, Laki, Lani, Damo, and Endegan. In the neighbourhood of Gurague is the country of Senshero, ^THIOPIC BOOKS. 99 where are many Christians and IMahomedans ; eight days joiu-uey beyond is that of Mager, the King of which is called Degoie. He is very strong. There is another country, in the same neighbourhood, called Kortshassi : it is surrounded by Gallas on every side ; and all the inhabitants are Christians. I read with the priest several chapters in the Gospel of St. IMatthew, and afterward gave him a copy of the New Testament, wi'iting in it — " The messengers of the Gospel give this book to the Christian Churches of Gm'ague, in token of love." August 22, 1839 — As yesterday closed the fast of Maiy, this day was one of great joy, and the people ate and drank to the delight of their hearts : it is therefore called a great Fasika. This feast is called Tescar. The King sent a cow, with some hens and eggs to our house. This Tescar had a bad influence upon our instruction, as nobody came to-day. Our Guebra left us to eat and drink in the house of his father. August 23— Our copyist, Habta Selassie, who is a learned Abyssinian, gave me the following list of iEthi- opic books: 1. Aragawi manfasawi ; 2. Tilikisus; 3. Marishak ; (these are called the books of the Monks,) 4. Taamrat ; 5. Gadela Samatal ; 6. Tamera Mariam; 7. Dilsana Mariam; 8. Argano; 9. Senkesar ; 10. Gadela Gcorgis ; 1 1 . Tamera Georgis ; 12. Gadela Tccla Haimanot ; 13. Gadala Guebra Manfa Kedus; 14. Ga- dela Guebra Christos; 15. Abu Shaker; 16. Sena F 2 100 ^THIOPIC BOOKS. Markos ; 17. Hezana Moia; 18. Etshi Johauos ; 19. Sena Ailiud ; 20. Genset ; 21. Georgis WoldaAmed; 22. Mazhafa Mistir; 23. Erotaa Haimanot; 24. Wudattie Amlak ; 25. Guebra Hemamal; 26. Tamera Jesus ; 27. Kalamentos ; 28. Seifa Selassie ; 29. Der- sana Michael j 30. Dersana Medhanalim ; 31. Kufalie; 32. Sefafa Zedek ; 33. Egsiabher Negs; 34. Amada Mistir; 35. Zoma Degua; 36. Sena Fetrat. Amada Mistir and Sena Fetrat are written in Amharic. In the Church of St. George there arc seventy books belonging to it. It is very difficult to get a book by purchase ; if you wish to possess one, you must get it copied. I spoke to our copyist about the conversion of the Gallas. He said that the Gallas do not like the Chris- tian Religion, and say that the people of Shoa are not better than themselves; that they will not bear the heavy yoke which is imposed on them by fasting ; and that they are offended at the iEthiopic language — to them an unknown language — in which they are taught by the Abyssinians. I said, " ^^ ty do you impose on them such a heavy load ? Do you not know what Christ says, (^latt. xi. 30.) My yoke is easy, and my hiirden is light ? Why do you imitate the example of the Pharisees who transgressed the commandment of God by their traditions ? " August 24, 1839 — Several persons called upon us, asking for the Kalem abenat. The Abyssinians are of opinion that there is a medicine, which, put into bread. MOUNTAINS OF BULGA. 101 is taken by cliildi-en or persons who wish to under- stand reading and wi'iting quickly. They beheve that eveiT man who comes from Egjqit — which they call Gipz, and an Egyptian, Gipzi — is in possession of this medicine. We replied, that we did not know such a medicine; and said, "Why are all men of Shoa so ignorant, if there is such a good medicine against igno- rance ? God from the beginning imposed on man to labour. All knowledge and skiKulness must be got by exerting our powers of body and mind." As there were about twelve persons with us^ I read with them the Heidelberg Catechism, which JNIr. Isenberg had trans- lated into Amharic. August 26 — I called uponAlaca Wolda Hanna, who was reading with Alaca Metat St. Chrysostom, (called by the Abyssiuians Afawork, meaning " gold mouth") He asked me about the leviathan and behemoth, men- tioned in the Book of Job ; about our bishops ; the journey to Cairo ; and the children of Ham, &c. I then called upon Alaca Wolda Serat, Ayto Wolda Georgis, and Arkadis. Before leaving the latter, I asked about the mountains of Bulga, which are seen from that place. One high mountain is called !Magus- as; another is called Fantalh; and the name of an other AVosile. In the evening I sent a copy of the Psalms to the Alaca of Tecla Haimanot. The Lord be praised for giving me daily an opportunity of spreading the good seed of His AA'ord ! August 27 — Johanes, who was formerly a Mahom- 102 THE FESTIVAL edan, told us this morning, that the King had cut off the nice binding of the books, which we gave him at our first meeting with him, to use for another pm-pose. We do not think, however, that it is true. The people of Shoa, like those of Tigre, do not like the Amharic very much, but prefer the iEthiopic. We endeavour to prove, that as the Amharic is the language of the country, and as the ^thiopic re- quires a long study, the Amharic is much more prefer- able to an unknown language. We refer them to 1 Cor. xiv., where St. Paul is speaking about the use- lessness of speaking in an unknown tongue. Finally, we say, that the iEthiopic is a translation like the Amharic, which has its preference in so far as it is corrected in conformity with the Hebrew; while the iEthiopic translation is made according to the Septua- gint. Perhaps it would be expedient, if the Bible Society would print the ^thiopic and Amharic in one volume, in the same way as they have printed the Ancient and Modern Greek New Testament, in one volume, in two opposite columns. I wish that we were in possession of a quantity of ^thiopic New Testa- ments. This morning Alaca Wolda Serat proposed to me to change the works of St. Chrysostom for a copy of the New Testament in iEthiopic. At Angol- lala, I offered to him a copy of the Amharic New Testament ; but he refused to accept it, asking for the ^thiopic. It always makes a painful impression on our mind if the people, and particularly the fii'st digni- OF TECLA HAIMANOT. 103 taries of cliui'ches, refuse to accept the Holy Scrip- tures. August 28, 1839 — To-day a priest ofBulga called on us. He said, that there was a large river, called Kassam, in the neighbourhood of Bulga ; and that it flows into the Hawash. The name of the Governor of Bulga is Berkie, who resides at Merfata. As there were about fifteen persons with us, I read j\Iatt. xxiii. with them, and afterward the Catechism, with which they were well pleased. August 29 — To-day is the feast of Tecla Haima- not. The memory of this Saint is celebrated three times in the year. In the month of December, the memory of his birth is celebrated ; in August, his death ; and in May, his ascension. The people of Shoa say, that there is a well, called Tabal, by drinking the water of which sick persons are restored to health. Tecla Haimanot, they say, opened this well; the arch- angel ^lichael, who was his Mediator with God, having she^\Ti him where the well was. On this day, the King gives money and salt to the poor, and mules to those who cannot walk, in memory of Tecla Haimanot, who cured cripples and other sick men. AMien they go to Debra Libanos, they bring back dust from his grave, making on his feast a cross with it on the forehead. They say, too, that this dust is good in many cases of sickness. August 31 — There being about eight scholars here, I read with them in the Gospel of St. John. In the afternoon, I went to see Wolda Hanna, who wished to 104 VISITS TO THE CHURCHES OF learn the English Language. AYe had a conversation about Geography. When 1 left him, he asked about our necessaries, sajang, he would send bread and wine if we were in want of them. I should be very glad if I had a better knowledge of the Amharic Language ; but I hope, with the assistance of God, to improve it every day. Mr. Isenberg has finished his Geography, which he began to write at Angollala. He intends to write a brief Universal History. A Spelling-book was com- posed by him at Angollala. We have made copies of those works written by Abyssinians. Sept. 1, 1839. Lord's Day — I went veiy early this morning to the Church of St. Michael. TheAlaca, Wolda Mariam, on seeing me, requested me to take a seat by his side. I gave him a copy of the New Testament in Amharic^ with which he was much pleased, asking at the same time, whether I had none in ^Ethiopic. Observing him wondering at the nice binding of the book, I took the opportunity to speak to him about the blessings contained in it ; and then briefly related to him the history of the Reformation, showing him that our forefathers were in as much darkness as the Abyssinians are at present, and how they were delivered from it by the light of the AA'ord of God ; and finally, I spoke to him about the worldly blessings which we have enjoyed since the time of the Reforma- tion of our churches. I have much hope that they will allow us to preach in their churches : for the pre- sent, however, I endeavour to make my acquaintance ST. MICHAEL AND ST. GEORGE. 105 with them. I went afterward to the Church of Tccla Haimanot in Aferbeini. As the service was finished, I called upon Alaca Guebra Selassie. Sept. 4 — Two monks came to-day begging for clothes. Mr. Isenberg spoke with them about monkery- being inconsistent with the original institution of matri- mony, Gen. ii. — of labour. Gen. iii. One of the monks has been at Axuca, where he had received a copy of the Psalms from our servant Kidan Mariam. We are glad to find that our books are spread over a large por- tion of Abyssinia. Sept. 5 — It rained very much to-day. In the even- ing I went to the Church of St. George, to see the books belonging to that Church. Afterward, a Debtera came asking about the polygamy of the Mahomedans. I directed him to the institution of God, Gen. ii. ; and the confirmation of that by Christ, Matt. xix. 4, 5., asking him, whether we should follow the error of the ^Mahomedans, or the Word of God ? Se2')t. 7 — About eight persons were here this morn- ing. An Alaca of Machala Wans begged for medicine. I asked him about the names of the parts of the Abyssinian churches. The first place, at the entrance, is called Kenie Maalti, where the boys in singing and other people stand. The second place is called Kediste, the place of the priests ; the third is called Keduta Kedutan. A relation of the King's came begging for medicine. The name of the King's mother is Senania Work- rain F 5 106 ABYSSIISIAN NEW-YEAR. of gold — She resides at Selat Dingai, iu the neighbour- hood of Tegulet. Sejyt. 9^ 1839 — I read this morning Acts viii. to a blind man, explaining to him the mind of Simon the sor- cerer, and the sincere mind of the Eunuch. Sept. 10 — This is the last day of the Abyssinian year. Our boy, Guebra Georgis, spoke this evening about Theodorus, who, in the opinion of the Abyssinians, is the Apostle John, who shall come at his time to rule all Jerusalem. Sept. 11 — To-day the new year of the Abyssinians begins. They count now 7332 in their chronology. I went to the Church of St. George, ha\'ing been in- formed that a priest would give a speech in Amharic. As I arrived too early, I went away. Mr. Isenberg went afterward to hear the speech, and came back much distressed about the nonsense he had heard. The speech was taken from the books of Sena Fetrat and Amada Mistir, being written in Amharic. In the afternoon a Debtera, Guebra Mariam, called upon us. On asking where he was born, he replied, that he was from the isle of Haig, which is in a large lake in the country of the Galla tribe, the name of which is Tehuladere, in the north of Shoa. On this island there are about a hundred houses, and a monas- tery, where wives are not admitted : they live at some distance from the monastery. The island is eight days jpm-ney from Ankobar. Foreigners who wish to enter Shoa, are compelled to wait in the neighbourhood of GALLA TRIBES. 107 this late, for orders from the King of Shoa. The name of the Governor of Tehviladere is Ali Marie, who is de- pendant on Has Ali at Gondar, and who is at present at war with Beroo of Argobba. The priest of Gurague came this evening, asking for a definitive answer, whether I would go with him to his country. I answered in the negative, though I was much inclined to go mth him, and I intend to do so in the month of December. The Galla Tribes in the south of Gurague are the following: l.Wudass; 2. Mai ; 3. Abboso; 4. Abo- sitsho ; 5. Masso ; 6. Lellon ; 7. Imer; 8. Fullo ; 8. Banoso; 9. Falandoso; 10. Mirrer. The Go- vernor of the town sent a sheep to us this evening. Sept. 13' — This afternoon the priest Sawold, who delivered an Amharic speech on the morning of the new year, called upon us. He is one of the most learned Abyssinians I have seen ; but he is veiy proud. He turned the conversation to Chronology, saying, that the Abyssinians had seven chronologies. I afterward went to Alaca Wolda Hana, who is sick. Sept. 15 — The above mentioned priest, Sawold, called upon us again, and turned the conversation to Chronology, as he had done on his first visit. When we said, that we had a firm basis for our Chronology in the 5th chapter of Genesis and other parts of the Old Testament, he said that the Jews had altered the Scriptures — an opinion which I had never heard from an Abyssinian — and therefore we could not rely upon 108 CONVERSATION AVITII the Hebrew. We said that we did not expect that he would speak in favour of the JMahomedans, who also say that the Jews and Christians had altered the Scrip- tures. We then endeavoured to prove that the Jews did not alter the Old Testament^ else they would have first altered the prophecies referring to Christ ; and further^ that the Jews had numbered the letters^ and were very anxious to keep the genuine text of Scrip- ture. The conversation then turned to Cyi'illus, Leon, Diosceurus, and other distinguished men in the Church at their times. Finally, the priest spoke of the births of Christ, and the late Abuna, Cyi'illus, whom they con- sider like an angel in heaven. Sept. 16, 1839 — The priest of Gurague came again. I read with him Matt. v. He afterward spoke of a kind of lion in his country, which is called Dib Anbasa. He added, that nobody had seen him ; but that when speaking of a strong man, they compare him with the Dib Anbasa. Another priest, born at Fintsha, the capital city of the province of Kuara, in the west "of Dembea, called on us. I asked him about the people dwelling on the sources of the Nile — which the Abys- sinians call Abai — whether they were Christians or hea- thens. He said that they were Christians. I asked him why they sacrificed to the Nile ; to which he replied, that it was a custom in Abyssinia to sacrifice cows, sheep, &c., in cases of sickness and or bad times. It is a fact, that the Abyssinians have this custom ; and therefore we may doubt the statement of Mr. Bruce that A PRIEST OF GURAGUE. 109 they are heathens. However, I suspend my judgment for the present. This priest also spoke in high terms of Gutho, the Governor of Damot, who is in friendship with the King of Shoa. Mr. D'Abadie is with him at present. By his means a traveller could get great as- sistance in going to Caffa and Enarea. When the priest left Gondar, Ras Ali had turned Mahomedan ; but as his governors, priests, and monks, protested against this step, he was obliged to return to the Christian faith. In the afternoon a man came begging for medicine. I was just reading Rev. i. with another man. When I had read some verses and spoke a little about it, he said, " It is enough : I have not come to you to learn, but to ask for medicine." Afterward an Alaca came, whose name is AVolda Tesfa. He was formerly the Alaca of St. Gabriel, at Adowah ; but being an adherent to the party of the three births of Christ, he was expelled from Adowah. He begged us to give him medicine. It is grievous to say, that the greater part of the people who come to us, seek only help for the body. When they come, they say that they long for instruction ; but having got medicine, they do not con- cern themselves for instruction. When I think on their disingenuousness, I have little hope of a good success of our work among this people, and my mind turns to the heathen Gallas. Enarea is said to be beyond the countiy of Sidama. Sidama means, in the Galla Ian- 110 THE ABUNA OF TIGRE. guage, " a Christian." That country is said to be on the way to Enarea. Sept. 17, 1839 — Several priests asked us whether the Abuna had yet arrived from Cairo. We answered in the negative. There are several causes which prevent the Abyssinians from getting an Abuna. The Governors of Tigre and Amhara are at present in the possession of the lands belonging to the Abuna, which, should he come, they would be obliged to deliver to him. Another cause is, that the Abyssinians are at variance with each other. The people of Gondar defend the opinion of the three births of Christ, which opinion the people of Tigre oppose. The Abuna of Tigre is therefore not acknowledged at Gondar, and vice versa. The Abuna Cyi-illus, who defended two births, was expelled from Gondar. In the afternoon, several persons came to see my watch, of which they had heard from others, consider- ing it as a wonder. I said, that it was their time to con- vert their minds to Christ. Heb. iv. A priest spoke about a book, the title of which is " Iscander." We sup- pose it is a translation from the Arabic. Then he spoke about the books of Dionysius Areopagita. Mr. Isen- berg proved to him, that it was an error to ascribe those books to Dionysius, mentioned Acts xvii. Our Workie told us this evening of a large city on the side of the river Mareb, in the country of the Shangallas, the name of which is Maidaro. Sept. 19 — Alaca Wolda Tesfa called upon us this VISIT TO DEBRA BERHAX. Ill afternoon. We asked him about the following strange story, which our Workie had related to us the day before. The Abuua, Christodoulusj at the time of King Nabla Denghel, had reprimanded the people of the Fetshoos on account of their \dciousness. Ex- asperated at this, they thought in revenge to defame him. At fii'st they brought the servants of the Abuna over to their side. Then they slaughtered a child, which they presented at table to the Abuna and the King, who were sitting together : one hand of the child was still to be seen in its natural state. The Abuna was astonished at the sight, and the King asked, whe- ther such was the usual meat in that house. He was answered in the affirmative. He then said, " From henceforth slaughtering and blood-shedding shall have no end in yom* country." Therefore, they are called Fet- shoo, that is — his hand. The Abuna is said to have raised the child from the dead, to bear witness to his innocence. Sept. 20 — This morning, about seven o'clock, we set out from Ankobar, and arrived at Debra Berhan about two o'clock in the afternoon. Several days ago we had intended to go ; but the people of the King refused to give us our mules, till they had received definitive orders from the King to deliver them up to us. Hav- ing arrived at Debra Berhan, we were conducted to a broken tent though much rain was falling. Sejit. 21 — This morning Beru, the King's boy, came to our tent, saying, that the King had been in- 112 VISIT TO TEGULET. formed of our arrival yesterday evening veiy late. We begged the King, through Beru^ to allow us to have an interview with him, in order that we might com- municate to him our business. At the same time, we made him acquainted with Mr. Isenberg's intention of returning to Egypt and Europe. Beru immediately retm'ned, bringing with him a sheep and some bread from the King. The King expressed his regret at Mr. Isenberg's going so soon. As it rained much, we asked for a house, which was given us by the people of Serta Wold, whose duty it is to take care of foreigners. Sept. 23, 1839 — This morning we met with the King. He was willing to let Mr. Isenberg go. We then told him, that I wished to remain here, and in course of time to go the Gallas, to preach the Gospel to them. He answered, " That \\dll not do : the GaUas will kill you.'' The people of Shoa attempted to convert these heathens by means of war and magic sentences ; but they refused to accept the Christian faith. Sept. 25 — This morning, about seven o'clock, I set out from Debra Berhan to visit Tegulet, the an- cient capital city of Shoa, and a river called Salatsha, which flows at the foot of the mountain on which Tegulet is built. I went in an easterly direction, and came to a mountain, where a steep way conducted me into the dale where the river flows. Having arrived at the river, I could not find a way to ascend the mountain on which Tegulet is built, though I could see very well the place where the city was. At pre- MILITARY EXERCISES. 113 sent there is a village there, called Etake. I saw a large wall, a work of old, which connects the village with a neighbouring mountain. In the midst of the wall is a large opening. Sept. 26 — This day we saw the King's soldiers ex- ercised, which takes place every year at the time of Mascal — a feast in memory of the invention of the cross. About nine o'clock we were called to the King. He was sitting at the entrance of his house surrounded by a number of his governors. AYe were ordered to take our seats by them. A number of sol- diers then appeared, having in their hands a bushel of s^\'itches, on the top of which a bundle of flowers was bound. A horseman rode up and down several times before then* front, who at last cast down his two lances on the ground, and in the same moment all cast away their switches. The ceremony was then finished. The King then ascended a balcony, which had been erected several days before. Having waited a little, we were called to take our seats in the balcony with the governors and other favourites of the King. The King was sitting in a small cabinet erected on the balcony, his favourite governors sitting at his side. These are Maratsh and Tshitshigoo. Then the respec- tive governors, with their troops firing guns, defiled before the King, on a large meadow-gi'ound. About 6,000 men defiled before the King. About two o'clock we retired to our house. CHAPTER II. RETURN TO ANKOBAR — ACCOUNT OP A SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY — REMARKS — SLAVES IN THE SERVICE OF THE KING — CONVERSATIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS — NOTICES OF THE GOVERNMENT, DISCIPLINE, AND USAGES OF THE ABYSSINIAN CHURCH — VLSIT TO THE KING AT ANGOLLALA — DISCUSSION WITH DEBTERA SANDJAR ON DOCTRINAL POINTS — MR. ISENBERG'S INTERVIEW WITH THE KING PREVIOUS TO HIS DEPARTURE FROM SHOA— MR. KRAPF RETURNS TO ANKOBAR — VISIT TOALACA WOLDA HANNA^CONVERSATION WITH PRIEST TSED- DOO ON BAPTISM — VISIT TO THE ALACA OF AFERBEINI — CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS — ABYSSINIAN MODE OF INSTRUCTING YOUTHS— CERE- MONY AT BAPTISM — NOTICES OF VARIOUS TRIBES. Sept. 27, 1839 — The King liaving sent us word, that we should go with him to Angollala, I resolved on re- turning to Ankobar. Mr. Isenberg followed the King to Augollala, in order to take leave of him. I arrived at Ankobar about three o'clock in the afternoon. On entering the town, I was stopped by the people of the Governor, to wait for orders from him. I went on my way, however, knowing that the King had given no orders to prevent my entering the town. A gi*eat num- ber of those who had visited us before for instruction, came to ask how I did, and whether we were all well. SejJt. 28 — Mr. Isenberg arrived this morning at Ankobar. He brought me the news, that a messenger LESSONS IN GEOGRAPHY. 115 has arrived from Adowali, informing the King of the arrival of fom* Eui-opeans, who wished to come to Shoa. The same messenger brought the news, that Oobieh, the Zetshesmatsh of Tigre, had put Cassai, the son of Sa- bagadis, in fetters. Sept. 30 — Since the people have learned that j\Ir. Isenberg intends to leave Shoa, they have come in numbers begging for medicine. This morning one of our copyists came asking medicine for a monk. Mr. Isenberg took the opportunity to speak to him about monkery. The rainy season seems to be coming again, it having rained very much for the last few days. Sa- wold repeated his visit to us, and turned the conversa- tion again to the subject of Chronology. In the even- ing the son of Alaca Wolda Serat came begging us to teach him Geogi-aphy. Several boys and priests were here. I have finished with Guebra Georgis, the Geogra- phy, and in the Universal Histoiy I have proceeded as far as the time of the Reformation. I have also read with him the Gospels of St. INIatthew, Mark, and Luke. October 1 — Very early this morning, the son of Alaca Wolda Serat came. I began to instruct him in Geography. Afterward, the son of the Alaca of Aferbeini came, bringing the Psalms I had sent him, saying, that the Alaca wished for something greater than that, of which he would inform to us. We sent him word, that it caused us much pain to see those, whose duty it was to teach others, not like the Word of God. He went away ; but returned in the af- 116 ACCOUNT OF A ternoorij sa}dug, that we should not be offended, as the Alaca had ah'eady received a copy of the Psalms from a monk who got it at Axum, and was not in want of ano- ther ; but that he would be glad of a New Testament. Our Workie asked us, whether we knew anything of the traveller Arada, who came to Abyssinia, and having travelled in so many other countries, be- came a proverb in Abyssinia ; as for instance, Ras Michael having returned with his troops to Gondar from the country of the Gooderoos, said, " We have travelled like Ai-ada/' This evening we witnessed a very mournful cere- mony. A woman in our house, the wife of a man from Gurague, began suddenly to sing. At first we did not listen to her ; but several times repeating her song, we asked what it was. Guebra Georgis told us, that she wished to expel the bad spirits which she im- agined would inflict her with sickness. In singing she repeated the words ; "Lamana saijasu gena" — a prayer before the bad spirits are seizing me. Having finished her song, she smoked for a few minutes, and then sung again ; which having done she moved her head in every direction. I went to her, and asked what she was doing. At first I thought that she was out of her senses, as she gave me no answer. Mr. Isenberg, who was rather unwell to-day, also came to see her. He asked her, whether she was in the service of Satan ? But she continued her idolatrous ceremony. The people standing by brought her a red hen, which she SUPERSTITIOUS CEREMONY. 117 kissed and put on her neck ; but the hen of course did not stay there. She then moved her head again and changed her clothes. Mr. Isenberg again spoke to her about her sinful performances. We were about to leave her, when she said, " ]May God come upon you, that you came to me.^' Mr. Isenberg replied, " How do you know God, as you serve the false god like the heathens ?^' We then returned to our room, and asked om* boy about the meaning of the ceremony, when he gave us the following particulars. The Gallas and all of the people of Gurague and Shoa, who are smokers, beUeve that there are eighty-eight spirits, which they call Sarotsh — in the singular, Sar — These spirits are said to walk about and inflict men with sickness ; and hence, when such persons feel sick, they take their refuge in superstitious means. By smoking and sing- ing, moving then- body, and particularly by offering a hen to the Sar, they imagine that they can frighten away the bad spirit and secm-e themselves against being sick. The Sarotsh are divided into two parties, each having its Alaca or head. One iVlaca is called Mama, who has forty-fom* Sarotsh under his command : the name of the other Alaca is Warrer, and has the same number of Sarotsh under him. Each Sar has a par- ticular name. When persons perform such a ceremony, they speak in another language. Thus, for instance, they call a hen, " Tshari" — in the Amharic, a hen is called Doro. The hen is afterward slaughtered and eaten by the assistants, except the brains, which are 118 REMARKS ON only eaten by the person who has performed the most part. In choosmg a hen they prefer a red one. The King has given orders to abolish this heathenish cus- tom, and the priests have forbidden the people to smoke, having observed that all smokers are fond of this custom. These proceedings characterize very much the Chris- tians of Abyssinia. They mix all together — Chris- tianity, Judaism, IMahomedanism, and Heathenism. The ceremony just mentioned is common to them, as well as the Gallas ; and the opinion of the above men- tioned priest, respecting the interpolations of Scripture made by the Jews, is evidently a Mahomedan doctrine. Their distinctions of clean and unclean food, and the use of circumcision, as well as many other ceremonies, are clear evidences of a mixture with Judaism. We cannot expect a better state of religion among them, inasmuch as a string of silk put around their necks as a sign of their Christianity — mortification of their flesh by much fasting — a strict separation from Maho- medans by not eating with them — their kissing churches — imploring Saints — disputing about the births of Christ — pilgrimages to Jerusalem, or to the grave of Tecla Haimanot — all these things together cannot change their hearts, nor secure them against the inroads of Satan. The priests, instead of conducting the people to Christ, assume the lordship over them, engrossing their attention with vain fables and stories of saints, to whom they direct them for refuge as SUPERSTITIOUS OBSERVANCES. 119 their Saviours. Hence ignorance, superstition^ fleshly sins, particularly fornication, have prevailed among the people ; so that we may well wonder at the remnant of Christianity which still exists in this country. Who can cure the wounds of Abyssinia, but the Lord by His Spirit and His Word ? To give them His Spirit we are unable ; but we can serve them by supplying them with the Word of God. The Holy Scriptures must not only be laid down before the people, but they must be explained to them by word and by writing ; and the youth must be instructed in the holy truths of the Bible. The Lord be praised that He has enabled us to make a beginning, though a small one. The people know distinctly who we are, and why we have come to their coimtry. A number of persons have heard the sound doctrines of the Gospel, by reading the Scriptures and conversation with them. Mr. Isenberg has endea- voured to further our object, partly by conversing with the people who came to us, and partly by preparing several school-books, which I could make use of after his departure. I have, on my part, endeavoured, be- sides the iEthiopic and Amharic studies, to read with the people in the Holy Scriptures, in reading which I have got as far as the first Epistle of Paul to the Corinthians. The Lord grant that the number of our scholars may increase, as well as our means in receiving a great quantity of books ; but, above all, may He grant that we may be filled with the spirit of faith, love, wisdom, and prayer ! 120 SLAVES IN THE KING's SERVICE. October 2, 1839 — To-day, I was again overrun with patients. Debtera Gucbra Selassieh brought his wife as a patient. This woman is at the head of the first class of the royal spinning women, who are two hun- dred in number, and have to spin the finer cotton for the royal cloth, which the King dresses himself and presents to his friends, ladies, governors, &c. A second class of spinning women are four hundred in number : these spin ordinary cotton for soldiers and others. All are in the service of the King, and seem to be free. I observe this circumstance here, because there are several hundreds of slaves, particularly females, at each of the King's residences at Ankobar, Angollala, Debra Berhan, and Kundy. The King's grinding women, for instance, at Ankobar are, I believe, three hundred in number. The water girls, who have to carry all the necessary water for the King's household, and for foreigners who are maintained by the King, are more than that number : his female cooks, I think, are two hundred. He has also some hundreds of women to prepare beer and hydromel; so that the number of female-slaves at Ankobar only in the King's posses- sion exceeds by far one thousand. A large number of male-slaves of the King are chiefly employed in carry- ing wood. The number of slaves at each of the three other residences is not quite so large as that of Anko- bar ; but there are many hundreds at each. They are for the greater part from Gurague ; others are Gallas, Shankelas ; others from the Zindjero country ; from RELIGIOUS CONVERSATIONS. 121 Enarea aucl CafFa, and many Abyssinians from Shoa, These and many other facts, may give a famt idea of what remains to be done in these quarters for the poor African slaves. Religious conversations always revert to the wor- shipping of saints^ fasting, ceremonies, &c. To-day I had again a long conversation with a priest of St. George's, and some other persons present, which began with speaking on Tecla Haimanot, in honour of whom four annual festivals are celebrated, when many patients are said to be cured from various diseases. The chief place for the celebration of these festivals is Debra Libanos, where there seems to be a mineral water, effectual particularly against rheumatism, paralysis, &c. Tecla Haimanot, they say, on arri^dng there from his journey, and being thirsty, prayed to God to open a fountain; when, through the agency of the archangel Michael, water sprang up at his feet, coming from Jordan. A\Tien this story was told to us to- day, we expressed our disbelief; and added, that we wanted neither true nor false miracles, as the mira- cles of Christ and His Apostles were quite sufficient. A long conversation then ensued on the worshipping of saints, when we laid particular stress on this point — that every honour paid to the creature, which ascribed to it some share in the working out our salva- tion, and implied a separation of Christ from His Church, or any imperfection of His work, was an offence against Christ. 122 CONVERSATIONS WITH The conversation then turned to the relation between clergy and laity ; when they were told, that all Chris- tians were called to be a royal priesthood of God — that priests were called to be, not Lords over the faith of believers, but helpers of their jo?/— that the priest is to rank above the congregation in knowledge and experience, in order to shew the people the way to Christ — that the people must themselves go to Christ ; if they do not, the priest availed them nothing^ — and that if a layman be taught by Christ himself, by His Word and Spirit, he will lack nothing on account of the priest's not having been instrumental in bring- ing on his conversion. They were fin-ther told, that where a work of God is going on in the minds of the people, the priest is not to interfere, throwing difficul- ties in the way of believers ; that he has only to ex- plain the will of our common Lord to the inquirer, and to assure the repenting and belie\ang sinner from the Gospel, that his salvation has been wi'ought out by Christ; and that when saying, Egziabeheryiftahh — (May God absolve thee— the Abyssinian form of Absolu- tion), this is to be a prayer, not a magic form at the command of the priest; for the keys of Da\dd are in the hands of Christ, and to His Word, priests and laymen are alike to submit themselves. This afternoon several people were at our house, with whom I conversed about our Missionary calling. The subject of om- conversation had previously been on the nature of faith and justification by it ; when a PRIESTS, AND OTHERS. 123 brother of the Alaca of St. Michael observed, that if we continued to teach in this manner, a blessing would proceed from it to the country, for the people would be converted from their sins ; but now that I had resolved to go away, they would sink back into theii' darkness. I replied, that if they really loved the Word of God, they would apply for instruction to this fountain of wisdom itself, and God would give them His Spirit to lead them to Christ, and then they would have no occasion for our assistance ; but that if they had occasion for us and loved us, my Brother Krapf, who would remain among them, and who daily became more acquainted with their language, would instruct them ; and that our Society also would send other brethren to fill my place, and probably I should again come myself. They com- mended our disinterestedness in teaching the people, and administering medical assistance to the benefit of many gratuitously. To the latter point, I, in a friendly manner, remarked, that although we did not want them to pay us for any assistance, still they should not desire it gratuitously, because Scripture told us that the labourer is worthy oj his hire. Our conversation then turned on the distinction between Mahomedans and Christians, on the Mateb — a blue or white silk or cotton cord, which Christians wear round their neck — and on the dis- tinction in eating and drinking. I observed, that love was the distinguishing mark by which true Christians were known from other men, referring to the words of G 2 124 THE CHARACTER OF TRUE Christy John xiii. 35. '^It is true/' said one of tlie priests of St. Michael's, " to be friendly with friends, and to good to the poor &c., is the first duty of all Christians." I told him, that this was not sufficient ; and put the question to him, whether if he loved his friend, it was not because his friend loved him ? This he could not deny. I then showed, him that in thus loving he loved his own self only. I asked, whether on being offended by any person he did not become angry? He answered in the affirmative. I then proved how this, which was far from being a distinguishing mark of Christianity, but very often met with among heathen and Mahomedans, was not real love, but selfishness; in contrast to which I endeavoured then to show what was true love, namely, loving our neigh- bour, without distinguishing between friend or enemy, on account of our common Creator and Redeemer, love being our happy duty and om- second nature ; and ob- served, that though love was in its expressions affected by the different characters and conduct of the beloved objects, it was not disturbed nor destroyed by them. He then asked, whether in our country there was no- thing like hatred and enmity ? I answered, that this question was not now a proper one ; but that if he saw and felt the truth of what had been said, he would take the subject into serious consideration, and endeavour himself to arrive at the possession of such love and such Christianity; and even if he should happen to become the only man in the world who so CHRISTIAN LOVE. 125 loved ; yea, and that if he should find, that myself, who now shewed him the way, did not live according to it — for which I should be very sorry — this was to be no matter to him, he was not to be disturbed by it. It was, I said, a sad truth, that the disciples of Christ lived in no country unmixed ; but that there were everj-where true and false Christians mingled together, not excepting our own country. He was glad at hearing this, and said, " Then it is there as it is with us." I told him not to be glad, because, as I had said, it was a sad truth ; nor to rejoice too soon, for perhaps in no other country was there so little of true Christianity as in Abyssinia. October 3, 1839 — To-day we learned, that Wulasma ]\Iahomed had passed by this town on his way to Angollala. Two Abyssinians, Debtera Hailoo, father of our scholar Guebra Georgis, and one of our copyists, reques- ted me to take them with me to oui* country. I had asked Hailoo to send his son with me ; to which he replied, that he should be glad to accompany me him- self ; and if I would allow this, I could take his son also ; but that he could not part with his son. I could not comply with his request, because Hailoo is married. The copyist said, that he had a strong desire to see our country, and he was not bound by any tie to his own country. I asked him, whether he could spend 1000 dollars for such a journey. He answered, that he could not spend ten dollars. When I told him, that 126 CHURCH GOVERNMENT travelling was so expensive, lie asked, whetlier our people did not forward a poor traveller " Meente Maryan," (for Mary's sake.) I told him, that they did not understand the Abyssinian language in oiu' country. He replied, that he would apply to the study of our language ; and asked, whether they would not for the sake of the Virgin forward him on his journey. I said that they would, if he could prove to our people that Mary had sent him, which he could not. October 4, 1839— Priest Abba Tseddoo gave us this evening some details concerning the government, disci- pline, and usages of their Church. Government. — The number of priests and deacons which are thought necessary for each Church, is twenty ; one third of whom have to officiate during one week, while the other two thirds rest. There are, however, few Churches at present in this kingdom which pos- sess the full number, owing to the want of an Abuna, or Bishop, for the last eleven years, to ordain priests and deacons ; so that there are many Churches which have been shut for want of priests. During the week the priests officiate, they live apart from their families. Each priest has got a number of spiritual children. In one sense, all those who are imder his clerical care as penitents, to whom he administers absolution and sacrament, are his spiritual children ; but more strictly, the bovs who go to him to be instructed, and entrust themselves to his special clerical care, are called AND DISCIPLINE. 127 his spiritual sons. At the commencement of their ward- ship, they solemnly promise, that they will obey their priests, observe all the usages prescribed by the Chm-ch, (and, Abba Tseddoo said, the Word of God,) give alms to friars, to the poor, the widows and orphans ; and frequently take the Lord's Supper. In this manner they remain with the priest for several years, and then they decide whether they will marry ; and, if so, whe- ther they will devote themselves to the priesthood or not, or whether they give themselves to the monastic life. If they intend to marry, the priest has to guide their choice, &c. If they enter upon the monastic life, they have to take a vow, never to have the least inter- com'se with the other sex, never to look at a woman, nor hear her voice, nor to eat anything which has been di'essed by women, not even bi'ead, &c. This, of course, leads them to convents, where no females are allowed to enter. Discipline.* In cases of criminal intercourse with women, a monk is cxconnnunicatcd for twenty years ; a married man — whether of the clergy or the laity, — for forty years ; and a priest loses his office, and is re- moved into the laity. I asked Abba Tseddoo, what was done when an excommunicated person died before his time had transpired. He answered, that in such cases the priest endeavoured to prepare the dying penitent ; * I relate here exactly what the priest told me, not adding any re- marks, reserving some necessary explanation perhaps for another opportunity. 128 CHURCH DISCIPLINE. that if the latter really repented of his sins, the priest promised to take half the remaining time of penitence upon himself, and to work it out by fasting and prayer ; and for the other half, he endeavoured to persuade him, if he possessed any property, to distribute it among the poor, the priests, and monks; to order Tescars — feastings to the clergy and the poor in remembrance of the dead person, for the purpose of encom-aging many prayers for him — to see prayers performed, and the Lord's Supper administered in his favour; and thus the priest dismissed the dying person with the abso- lution, and then the latter would, after his death, arrive in the Sheol — intermediate place between hell and heaven — where he had to stay until by his alms, tescars, prayers, fastings, and communion (masses) he got to heaven. I asked him, whether this discipline was really observed. He replied, very seldom ; though it is still acknowledged. On my inquiring, whether they had any divine authority for prescribing as well as observ- ing such discipline, he referred to certain sentences which he thought were taken from the Gospel ; but which are derived from the Fathers. Upon showing him this, he appealed to the apostolical constitutions, and Fetha Negest — their code of laws. I answered, that those laws must be judged by the Word of God, and deviated from where they do not agree with it. I then showed him Luke xvi, concerning Dives and Lazarus, dwelling particularly on the great gulf fixed between heaven and hell, and the impossibility of pas- ABYSSINIAN STORY. 129 sing from one to the other. He said, " This passage must be explained." I asked, how he was able to ex- plain it so as to maintain his doctrine and the usage of his Church, without explaining it away. He referred to the passage : " Whatsoever ye shall hind on earth, 8^'c." I observed to him, that this passage took for granted the submission of the Apostles as well as their followers, the ministers of the Gospel, un- der the entire Word of God, and thus the terrible gulf was not filled up. He then related the follow^- iug story, which he said was contained in Athanasius' writings, and which I had heard once from Debtera Abisalom at Adowah. A certain rich man, called Bael, died, after having amassed many treasvu'es, not having cared for the state of his soul. His pious son, who, during his father's life-time, had often in vain reminded him to think on eternity, saw in a di-eam his soul going into hell-fire ; so that nothing re- mained to be seen, not even the hairs of his head, being wholly drowned in the fiery sea. \Yhen he awoke, his fearful dream had such an eficct upon him, that he immediately sat to work, collected one half of his father's treasures, and gave them to the poor and to the churches^ ordering prayers to be offered. Psalms to be read, fastings performed, and commmiion administered for his late father. Soon after he had the pleasure to see the good effect of his exertions; for, in another dream, he saw again the flaming abyss, and his father rising out of it, above its surface, up to G 5 130 CONVERSATION ON liis loins. Encouraged by this success^ he gave the remaining half of his father's possession for the same purpose as the first, and his father ascended out of hell -fire into heaven. In reply to this story, I told him, that we considered Athanasius to have been one of the most distinguished Fathers, and that we hon- oured him much on account of his manly conduct in struggling against Arianism for the glory of the Son of God, and on account of the sufferings he endured in that cause ; but, nevertheless, we felt obliged to examine into his doctrines, and such things as did not harmonize with the letter and tendency of the Scrip- tures we must reject ; and if this story, which he had been relating to me, was really contained in Atha- nasius' writings, we should reject it as anti-scriptural, thou2;h I doubted whether it had not been falsely ascribed to him. As to my own feelings, I said, that I could not ventm-e to pray for any dead person, however dear to me in this world, because St. Paul says. Whatso- ever is not of faith is sin; reasoning thus: — Faith is grounded upon the Word of God ; a faithful prayer is such as has a Divine command, and a Divine promise for its basis. Now as to dead persons, we have neither Divine command nor promise encouraging us to pray for them ; and, consequently, we cannot pray in faith, if we really pray for them ; and not being able to pray in faith, our prayer, instead of being answered, would be counted as an addition to our numberless sins. And a further proof of this, was James i. 6, 7 ; iv. 3. The PRAYING FOR THE DEAD. 131 fact was, that we believed the fate of mortals, at least those to whom the Word of God was given, to be decided immediately after death — Luke xvi ; Hebrews ix. 27. Here was the seed-time, and hereafter the har- vest ; and he that died in sin, for him w^as no further sacrifice ; and even if we should suppose that God had provided means for their salvation, as they were not within our reach, nor knowledge, we could by no means make any use of them. He answered, that it w^as true that those who died in sin, had nothing but darkness before them ; but that from behind this world, there fell some few rays of Hght into their path, which tended to lessen their dark night a little ; and if they made a proper use of these rays, they would increase, and by degi-ees lead them to full light. This is in itself an ingenious idea ; but, who will lighten the w^ay for the dead, as well as for the living, if not that ivord, tvhich is a lamp u?ito my feet, and a light unto my path ? Marriage. — With regard to mamages, he said that their Chm*ch permitted successive marriages : with lay- men as many as four. They, however, do not cpiitc agree with each other, some Churches not allowing more than three. If people wish to live in accordance wnth the Church, they are obliged, after their last marriage, to enter the monastic life, not, however, as it seems, with the same restrictions as the regular Abyssinian monas- tic order. Fasting. — Concerning fasting, he mentioned, that many people did not observe the forty-days fasting (of 132 ON FASTING. Lent), nor the fast of the Apostles (after "\Aliitsun- dav, of twelve days continuance) ; nor that of the Vh-gin's assumption (a fortnight) nor Tsoma Ledat (Advent) ; but he that observed no fasting at all, woidd not be interred in the Church's burial ground. I asked, how it was that so many people scarcely ever fasted. He replied, that they still fasted every Wednesday and Friday ; and that they were not admitted to the Com- munion, except they made penances for their non-ob- servance of the Saint's fastings. An honourable burial, however, was not refused to them. I asked him, whe- ther they would bury us, since we did not observe their fastings. He said, that they would; for our Church did not prescribe fasting. He then related of Abba Mohallem — a certain Armenian Wortabet, of the name of Yohannes, who died here last year — that he had not fasted at first, and had even eaten meat on Wednesdays and Fridays, whereby the people of Shoa thought that the Armenian Chuch had no fastings ; but that after they had several times m-ged him to fast, he at last yielded, complying with the Abyssinian custom. Many have asked from us the famous " medicine of colours." To-day a boy, belonging to St. Michaers, mentioned it again ; but I was glad to observe that he was not so superstitious ; for he remarked, that that medicine indeed produced pain in the bowels, but did not open the head. October 5, 1839 —To-day Abba Tseddoo brought us a Genzet — formulary for the burial of the dead — which VISIT TO ANGOLLALA. 133 they say originated witli Athanasius ; and in order to render it still more important, it is stated in the book itself, that Helena had discovered it, at the digging out of the Holy Cross. At the same time, however, the councils of Nice, Constantinople, and Ephesus are mentioned in it, whereby it is clear that it cannot have been wn-itten by Athanasius, at least not in its present form. This evening a messenger arrived from the King, who ordered us to come to Angollala to-morrow, when probably my departure will be settled. October 8 — The day before yesterday it rained so heavily in the morning, that we feared we should not be able to go to Angollala ; but on the sky clearing up in the afternoon we set out. We had, however, not gone far, when it began again to rain tremendously ; we could but \nth difficulty and danger pass the toi*rent Airara — about three miles west of Ankobar — and the road was so bad, that we were obliged to remain at Metatit. There we took our lodgings with the Tchikka Shum — literally, governor of the clay or dirt — whose duty it was to receive us. When I saw them smoking tobacco, I asked, whether they did it to honour the Sarotsh (See Oct. 2), which they at fii'st denied, but afterward acknowledged : I took this opportunity to show them the sinfulness of doing so. Yesterday morning at seven o'clock we left INIctatit, and about three o'clock in the afternoon arrived at An- gollala. The house where we lived formerly, was now 134 THE KING IN COURT. occupied by its ovAoier, Habta Maryam. Wliile Atkoo, our guardian, looked out for another house, I went to see M. Rochet, who had been received by the King into his house. The court was quite full of people; for the King had guests wdth him, among others a late General of Ras Ali. "When waiting on the minister, Serta Wold, Mahomed Ali, from Tadjurra, who had accompa- nied M. Rochet, accosted me. Serta Wold introduced me, not to M. Rochet, whom on the present occasion I had come to see, but to the King, who sat at judgment in unusual pomp, the balcony where he sat being lined with a great variety of coloured cloth, and the ground below, where his grandees and governors, judges, ala- cas, &c., sat and stood, covered with Persian and Tur- kish carpets. I paid my compliments from below to the King, who very friendly answering ordered me to sit on the carpets. A cause was examined between two persons, a man and a woman ; which was soon finish- ed, when I thought the King would have sent for us ; but he did not, being occupied I suppose with other business. As Mr. Krapf had also arrived in the mean time, we inspected a new house which was being built for the King, and then went to see M. Rochet, who was suffering from fever. A few Letters from Basle, Barmen, and Cairo, which M. Rochet brought us, were very refreshing to us. October 9, 1839 — The brother of our friend Alaca Habta Selassieh at Oobieh^s court, known from Mr. Gobat's and our former journals, having several times CHRIST'S HUMAN NATURE. 135 applied for medicine, I liad ordered him to collect camo- miles, which are fomid in great plenty on the Chakka and near Ankobar, called to-day again ; and when 1 offered to him tartar emetic for his complaint, he would not accept it, but asked for paper, on which he wished to have a charm written against his disease. I refused to give him the paper, explaining the sinfulness of such a practice to him ; and being exceedingly pressing, I was obliged to request him not to speak any more about it. After dinnci', Debtera Sandjar called on us. Some very important doctrinal points were treated upon in oiu" conversation, particularly universal sinfulness, not excepting the saints. He maintained that Christ at His incarnation took on himself human nature, in the same state as Adam was before the fall ; with which I agreed, obsernng, however, that his nature differed from Adam^s innocent nature so far, that Christ's humanity was not exempt from sinless infirmity and disposition to dis- eases, and even death ; which was the consequence and punishment of our sin. Tliis I proved by some circum- stances in the life of our Sa\dour ; namely, that He hun- gered and thirsted, underwent fatigue, and other states of weakness and sickness, which could not be sup- posed to have occurred in the state of Adam's innocence. "When, by way of illustration, I observed, that when a man suffered hunger for a long time he would die, and death was the wages of sin, he denied the force of this argument, because all the cases in which this occurred 136 UNIVERSALITY OF SIN. were with sinful men, all men being sinners. I then alluded to some saints, who had been starved to death, not on account of their sins, but for the name of Jesus, because they believed in Him. He objected, that we ourselves maintained, that even the saints had not been free from sin, and on this account, were subject to death ; whether it was then from hunger or any other cause they died, it mattered nothing. I must observe, that 1 had taken this argument, inconclusive as it really was, because I took for granted, that he, like the Abyssin- ians in general, believed the saints to be free from sin. I asked him then, whether he agreed with us in this material point. He answered, " Yes, I fully agree ^^•ith you." I replied, that on this assertion I did not mind yielding for the present to him the other point as non-essential, since he submitted to that chief doctrine of the Scriptures, that no man except Christ ever had been or was without sin ; upon which he repeated his strong belief in this doctrine. He then left us, with the promise often to call, in order to search the Scriptures. October 10, 1839 — This morning the King sent for us, in order to sj)eak with us concerning my journey. He asked what he should give me for my journey ; to which I replied, thanking him for his readiness to assist me, and obser\ing that it was om- principle not to trouble any one ; but as he was so generous toward us, I should thankfully accept what he was pleased to give. He offered to give me tlii-ee or fom* slaves. Not know- ing whether he intended to give male or female slaves, THE king's proffered assistance. 137 I at once declined accepting any, on the general prin- ciples which he finds it so difficult to comprehend, since we had stated them several times before. IMale slaves I should perhaps have been disposed to accept, giving them theii- liberty at the same time, and trying to edu- cate them afterward. He then requested me to men- tion to him anything which was liked in oui- country. I then mentioned manuscripts and any works of art, from which it might be seen how far the Abyssinians were advanced in industry. He asked me to specify the manuscripts I wished for ; but when I did so, he express- ed himself soiTy at not being able to let me have them, he himself being in want of them. He said, that he had sent fifty dollars to Godjam in order to get two copies of their chronological work called Abooshaker. Concerning our provisions, he said, that he had given orders for them already, as well as a mule for myself, and one for my servant. On requesting him to inform me what he wished for from our country, he said, that he wished for nothing, except a coining apparatus. I asked him, whether he wanted any work- men. He replied that he did not, because there were excellent workmen then on the road from Gondar. He then dismissed us, declaring that he intended to send us to-morrow. — Soon after, Serta Wold, presented me with some fine baskets from the King, and in the afternoon he brought two fine nudes, one for me, and one for the servant, and fifty dollars for me, and ten for the ser- vant, as the King's present for our journey. 138 CONVERSATION October 13, 1839 — To-day, I arrived at Ankobar from Debra Berhan, mth my brother Isenberg, who had taken his farewell of the King. He treated him in a very friendly manner, and promised not only to pro- vide for Mr. Isenberg on the road, but also always to behave toward me as his son. In the evening several people came to see us, and among others Tseddoo, a priest of St. George, who began speaking about fasting. He said, that our doctrines and lives were blameless, only they would like us to fast, and receive with them the blessed sacrament. We replied, that we were much inclined to yield to their wish in respect to fasting, if it were not that we were grieved at seeing them aiming to be justified thereby before God As to the Lord^s Supper, I remarked, that, though I wished to receive it, I could not do so, as their ecclesiastical laws ex- cluded unmarried people from partaking of it. Besides, I had other reasons for not communicating with them. After the priest had left me, I thought it fit to consult with Brother Isenberg on this point before he departed. First, we considered that the omission of fasting had been a continual stumbling-block in the eyes of the Abyssinians since the commencement of our Mission in this countiy ; secondly, that fasting is not sinful in itself, and hence not against the principles of the Bible, nor the Church of England ; and thirdly, we referred to the examples of the apostles, particularly to that of St. Paul, who though he strictly adhered to justification by faith, yet condescended in this respect ON FASTING. 139 of his own accord to the weakness of his brethren. Relying on this great example, we thought we could, with the Lord's assistance, resolve to fast, but only ^■oluntarily and out of love to our brethren, not seeking thereby om* own righteousness. However, we thought it fit not to act rashly in this matter. October 16 — In the morning Guebra Georgis came. I read fii-st with him in the Gospel, and afterward we finished the Universal Histoiy, which Mr. Isenberg had written in Amharic. As Guebra Georgis has ex- pressed a wish to become acquainted with Church Histor}^, I shall accede to it, the more so as a useful preparatory woi-k, wi'itten likewise by Mr. Isenberg, will form the basis of my instruction. Afterward, the blind Debtera Habta Mariam, fi-om Basso in Godtsham, came. I had begun, the day before, to read to him the Epistle of St. Paul to the Romans, which Epistle I prefer in reading or speaking about religious matters, as it contains before all other books an antidote against this Pharisaical Church. The above named priest, Tseddoo, joined me in reading to Habta Mariam. We read Rom. ii. ; which occasioned a long conversation about real and nominal Christians. Then Alaca Tesfa came to see us. He said, that Abraham was the father of the Abyssinians, because Solomon had a son, named jMenelek, by the Queen of Arabia, who had been Queen of Tigre ; and that at the time of Solomon the tribe of Benjamin had entered Ethiopia, and the ark of the covenant had been brought from Jerusalem 140 VISIT TO ALACA to Tigre. We told him^ first^ that there were no proofs in history that the queen was the mistress of Tigre at that time, or that she bore a chikl to Solomon; and, secondly, that Solomon was from the tribe of Judah, which tribe at this splendid period of the kingdom of Israel would not have left the holy land. As to the ark of the covenant, it was at Jerusalem several hundred years after Solomon ; and to appropriate a stolen sanctuary (because the Abyssinians say that the ark was stolen from Jerusalem) would be a sacrilege for ever disgraceful to the Abyssinian people. TVTiy did they not steal also the holy books of the Jews ? It is not probable that a sanctuary was stolen, over which the Jews had exercised the greatest watchfulness. Besides, more than 300 years after Christ's birth, at the time of their King's Abreha and Azbeha, the Abyssinians were heathens, worshipping the serpent ; how then could they have been Jews ? Finally, we exhorted him to study biblical and universal history. In the afternoon, we went to see Alaca Wolda Hanna. He asked about the day on which Christ was born and baptized. On replying that this was not precisely known, but that the ancient Fathers of the Church, ])articularly Chrysostom, appointed the 25th of December, as the day of Christ's birth, he said, " We know it very well ; Christ was born on the 29th of December, and was baptized on the 11th of January." We then spoke about the chronology before Christ. He said, that the Abyssinians counted nearly WOLDA HANNA. 141 6000 years, proving this date from tlie three men praising God six times in the furnace. A treatise on the true interpretation of Scripture, treating its subject vnih. soHdity and conciseness, in the Amharic, or rather in the Ethiopic language, would I think contribute much to the removal of their false principles of the exposition of the Bible. On our way we called upon Alaca Serat. He spoke about the idolatry of the Hindoos, of which he had heard something in geogra- phy. We told him about the millions of their deities ; their absurd and cruel ceremonies ; and remarked, that the Word of God, if preached in purity and in the power of the Holy Ghost, would alone destroy the bulwarks of Satan. We related to him the history of a Brahmin, who, having put nails in his shoes, made a pilgrimage to a holy place, but was converted by a Missionary preaching on John i. 29. October 17, 1839 — Chm-ch History with Guebra Georgis and Makbeb. Guebra is taking delight in this study. After we had finished our lesson, Laaka Mariam, the Guraguean priest, whom I have mentioned before, came to see me. I said, that I had thought he had gone back to his country. We then read 2 Cor. v. I re- minded him of the great day of the Lord, before whom we wished to appear blameless ; and exhorted him to yield up his whole heart to Jesus Christ, and to teach his people in Gurague the Word of God. He then said, " I am much afraid of the Gallas on the road. I therefore request you to give me an Abenat 142 CONVERSATION WITH TSEDDOO. (remedy) against my fear." At the same time he asked, whether if he carried on his head the copy of the New Testament which I had given him, it would be of any use. I replied, that the specific which I would advise, was the reception of the New Testament into his heart, and to commit himself and his way to the covenant God, who alone could preserve him, as he had protected us when travelling through the country of Adel. Priest Tseddoo then came, and conversed with me about the revealed and hidden church ; terms which in our theology, signify the visible and invisible church. I asked him, whether the people called Tabiban, or wise men, dwelling in the forest of Ankobar, were not ranked by the Shoans among the hidden church. He answered in the negative ; and said, that the Tabiban joined outwardly in fellowship with the Christians, but privately they followed their own religion, asserting that the Messiah was still to be expected. This people are working for the King, who presents them annually with twenty or twenty-five cows, and appoints their Alaca in case of vacancy. On speaking again about fasting, our servant Atkoo made use of a strange simile, saying, that if a mule was foddered too well, he woidd become unmanageable, and hence it was necessary to diminish his food. Thus fasting was a means of cooling and abating our flesh. First, I contended against this unbe- coming comparison between irrational animals and a Christian, who is bidden to eat and di'ink moderately, and to do all in the name of God and then I opposed FASTING. 14^3 their stniggling for justification by fasting, turning his thoughts also to the bad consequences of their fasting as respects the body, saying, that at one time they aspired at killing their bodies by their abstemiousness ; while, at another time, they ate and drank to excess. In the one case, they were unable to work ; and, in the other, they swept away each other by enmity, hatred, and mm'der. Though he disputed my sapng that they killed themselves by fasting, yet he said that I had spoken the truth. October 18, 1839 — Ha\dng read with Guebra Georgis in the Gospel, I proceeded with the Chm'ch History. Several priests were also with us. Tseddoo brought a book called Tabiba Tabiban, much esteemed by the Abyssinians. It contains prayers against bad spirits. In the afternoon I went to see Abba Sawold, a monk, who is considered one of the most learned men of Shoa. He spoke about their seven chronologies ; but I found that all his wisdom is comprehended in their almanack, called Abooshaker. Afterward, I went on with Guebra Georgis in Church History, speaking about the Chris- tian life of the primitive Church. Tseddoo then asked about the qualifications required in oiu* ordination. A\Tien I told him, that a man destitute of learning and holy life, was not admitted to the ordination of a dea- con and priest, he was much struck, and said, " If this is required, we should succeed very badly in ordination." I then asked, what qualifications they required, and their mode of ordination. He said, that children dare not 144 ORDINATION QUALIFICATIONS. know about this mystery ; that a person desirous of ordination from the Abuna, was asked, whether he un- derstood reading the Gospel ; which if he did, the Abuna breathed upon him, making the sign of the cross and having thus taken orders he receives the holy Supper, gives several pieces of salt to the Abuna, and the whole ceremony is finished. I spoke against the wanton man- ner in performing so holy a ceremony, and brought it in connexion with the corruption of the Abyssinian Church, obserWng, that if priests were unlearned men, their flocks woiddperish in ignorance ; and that if they did not live a holy life, the people would follow their example. Tseddoo then asked, why we did not wear a turban and a cross, as we were priests. I remarked, that the Word of God had not given us directions about the mode of dress, which varied in different countries and chm'ches. As to the cross, we wished it to be in om* hearts and doctrine, — to crucify, as Paul says, the flesh with its lusts, and to know nothing save Jesus Christ and him criLcified. I then rebuked him, on account of their pha- risaical doings, and of their putting flesh for spirit, and external performances for inward religion. He then said, that St. Paul, in healing sick persons, made the sign of the cross. I asked him to give me a proof from the New Testament ; but being rather puzzled, he said, " I will give you a proof to-morrow." October 19, 1839 — Tseddoo came very early this morning ; but instead of giving me a proof of what he had said yesterday, he maintained that the wood of which ON GOOD WORKS. 145 the cross of Christ was made^ was called Wetckua, as is written in the book of Taniera Jesus. This matter led to a long chscourse about the difference between the Word of God and that of men. As in the mean time several people had come, I read the third chapter of Genesis, showing them the necessity of relying only upon the Word of God ; when a priest from Kuara, a province in the west of Dembea, began to speak about good works, referring to ^latt. xxv. 34 — 41. I ap- plied the aforesaid discom-se about the Word of God to him, sapng, that the Scriptm'es only could teach us what was a good work ; and that as the Abyssinians did not rely alone on that Word, I did not wonder at their confused and unscriptui-al views of good works. Finally, I exhorted them to examine themselves in the pm-e light of God's Word, in order to really know their sinfulness, and to repent ; to seek forgiveness through the blood of Christ ; and the experience of His love, by which they would be enabled to perform good works ; but that if they would not hear the voice of the Gospel, they would die in their so-called good works, or rather sins, and have to bewail their folly with the lost for ever and ever. Several boys afterward came, \nth whom I first read in the New Testament, and then I began to make them acquainted with the Universal History in Amharic. On their leaving, I asked how many boys were in the school of St. George. They said, that twenty boys were instructed in singing, ten others in reading, and thirty H 146 ADMINISTRATION OF JUSTICE. exercised themselves in poems, all of whom were in- structed by six teachers ; and that if the Abuna should come, they would all go to Gondar, to take holy orders. On my asking, whether they were not afraid of the Gallas on the road, they said, that the King would charge a Galla Governor to take care of them on the way. October 20, 1839 — Tseddoo came, requesting me to read with him Matt. v. in iEthiopic, which I did. Speaking about proceedings before human judges, I asked how justice was administered in Shoa. Guebra Georgis, who was with us, said, that on a man^s being accused of theft, he was taken into three chm'ches, in each of which he took oath of not having stolen. If he be iipright and guilty, he confesses his sin before he is ordered by the priests to swear, retm-ns the stolen goods, and pays, as a fine, eight pieces of salt to the Governor. If the accuser should make oath against him, the man is forced to return the goods charged upon him, whether he may have stolen them or not. After- ward, I read Rom. iii. to the blind Debtera Habta Mariam. October 22 — Tseddoo turned the conversation upon baptism, saying, that a father who did not bring his child to the font on the fortieth day after birth, would be excommunicated ; and that when the child had been baptized, the holy supper was administered to it. I ob- jected to this as being inconsistent with 1 Cor, xi., where every one is exhorted to examine himself before he COXYERSATION OX BAPTISM, 147 receives that Supper. Besides, it was inconsistent with the words of the institution of that sacrament, according to Matt, xxvi., where Christ commanded it to be received in remembrance of Him, which childi*en are incapable of. He admitted that their custom was not in accordance with the Scriptm-es. While we were engaged in our discourse, the above-mentioned monk, Abba Sawold, interrupted us, and commenced speaking about the two great witnesses in the Revelation of St. John. He said, that the Abyssinians were of opinion, that these were Elias and Enoch. I said, that we did not know this ; that as the prophecy was not yet accomplished, we could not know ; and that it did not become us to explain the "Word of God in accordance with our oyvn pre-conceptions. Tseddoo spoke about the instruction given to the Gallas intended to be baptized. They are taught, he said, the Symbolum Nizenum ; then the book Amada Mistir and Sena Fetrat, in which books there is much nonsense; after which they wear a Mateb, and are then baptized : but usually they are not taught so much before they are christened. If they should have been circumcised, and wear a Mateb — string of silk in sign of Christianity — and make an offering of some measures of wheat to the priest, they are at once baptized. The Symbolum Nizenum is called Zelota Haimanoth. They do not know the Symbolum Apos- tolicum, which may be a proof that this Symbolum was not eveiywherc used in the Church, or, what is more H 2 148 ON FASTING. probable, was out of use when the Abyssinians became Christians. October 23, 1839— Church History with Guebra Georgis and jNIakbeb. Afterward, we read Matt. ix. A priest who Avas with us contended for the necessity of fasting, in consequence of the great depravity of the Abyssinians. "AVell," I said, "you bear \\dtness against yoursehes; and as to the corruptness of Abyssinia, you have spoken the truth ; but you are deceived if you maintain that yom* depravity can be destroyed by fasting. If you think of crucifying your flesh in this way, and thus deliver yoiu'selves, you renounce Jesus Christ as the Saviom*, who is made to us ivisdom, righteousness, sanct'ification, and redeinj)tion. There- fore, God in His just judgment permits you to fall into all sins, that you may know yom' real corruption, and seek to be saved by faith in Christ, who came to call sinners to repentance.'^ In the evening, Tseddoo brought to me a book, called Lefafa Zedek, which is full of nonsense. The Abyssinians like it so much, that they have it put into their graves with them. October 24 — I went to see the Alaca of Aferbeini, whose Church is in a forest on the eastern side of Ankobar. He spoke about fasting. Afterward, I read Church History with Guebra Georgis, and some others. T^Tienl spoke about the Nicene Council, Guebra said, that the Abyssinians were of opinion that Maho- med, the prophet of the Mahomedans, was one of the VISIT TO AILO TSANNA. l-i9 318 fathers congregated at Nice ; but as Satan pos- sessed him, he parted from the fathers. But Guebra Georgis knowing the time of the Nicene Council, and the rise of INIahomed, laughed at this ignorance of his people. He then asked, whether Mary corJd be called "WolacUta Amlak (who brought forth God). I showed him ]Matt. i. 16, 25, and John iii. 1 ; whereupon he said, " I understand it : she must be called Woladita Jesus, (mother of Jesus. )^^ October 25 — In the morning we were called by the Governor of the town, Ailo Tsanna. He said, that he had got strict orders from the King not to let jMr. Isenberg go before he had disclosed to him a great secret. On asking what this secret was, he showed us a bone, on which was written some Arabic characters ; and requested us to tell him of what use the bone was, as the King wished to know. Mr. Isenberg told him to throw the bone away, as it was quite useless; and that a knave must have given it to the King in the hope of getting a good reward. Mterward, I came with Guebra Georgis in Church Histoiy to the Gnostics. I showed him the bad consequences of a Christian teacher not relying solely upon the Bible. October 26— Two priests of Gurague came to see me. They had arrived at Angollala in four days from Aimellel. Aimellcl is on the frontiers of Gurague. They asked me much about my country, Jerusa- lem, and whether we had slaves like their country- men. Knowing that slavery is much practised in 150 PRODUCTIONS OF EXAREA AND GURAGUE. Gurague, I insisted upon proving to them both from rea- son and Scriptm-e, the sinfulness of this traffic. After- ward, the Wind Debtera Habta Mariam came, to whom I explained Rom. v. To-day we learned concerning Sidama, that it is situated to the west of the blue Nile, between the Gooderoo country and Enarea. In Sidama, Enarea, and CafFa, are many Christians: beyond the two latter countries Gallas are said to live, who, the Abys- sinians say, have no language. From Enarea par- ticularly they bring good coffee, better than that which is cultivated near the lake of Tsana, and the civet-cat. Shankelas, who live not far from the fountains of the blue Nile, bordering on the Agows, and go quite naked, are said to collect much gold, which they bring to Goudar for sale. From Gm-ague they bring to Shoa carpets, made of ensete ; gm-arima, a certain spice which I do not know ; some gold, and skins of brown leopards, which they call gisselas. The chief articles which are imported into Enarea, are blue Surat cloth, and rock salt from Arho, in the south of Tigre, which latter article is c\n-rent in many of these countries instead of money. Coined money does not seem to be used in the countries west and south of Abyssinia. Gold is found in several places. It is occasionally found, afterthe rainy season, near Debra Berhan,when thewater has washed away some of the ground, and brought the gold to light. Priest Laaka Maryam says, that Gura- gue contains much gold ; but this man is not to be GALLA TRIBE GELAN. 151 depended upon for liis statements. The country on botli sides of the Tshatsha river^ not far from Angol- lala, is veiy rich in metals; many of the Tabiban have settled in small huts on its shores, where they dig and work ii'on. But this iron does not seem to be so good as the Tigre iron, which is of an excellent quality. October 27, 1839 — My Galla servant, Berkie, from Kum Dengai, in the tribe of Gelan, gave me the following information about his people. The priests, who are called Kallitshotsh, offer an annual sacrifice to the Wake under a tree, called Riltoo. In offering it, they pray : " Wake, give us tobacco, cows, sheep and oxen, and help us to kill om* enemies. Wake, take us to thee ; lead us to the garden ; lead us not to Satan.^' They have also sorcerers, who are called Lubotsh — in the singular, Luba. These priests go every year to Woda- nabe, a large worka-tree, near the Hawash, where they make their prayers and divinations from looking upon the entrails of goats and sheep. If the entrails appear very red, the Luba says, that the Gallas will be overpowered by the Christians. The priests dry these entrails, and wear them round their necks. The Gallas do not like to have a Christian Governor placed over them, because, they say, that they would become Christians, and then very soon die. If they get a Christian Governor, they all cry together : " Ila batu ! ha batu ! " — May he perish ! May he perish ! When the Gallas take an oath they make a ditch, and say, "If we 152 CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS. are forswearing ourselves, may we be cast into this pit." T^Tien a Galla takes a wife, her father gives her a dow- ry ; but if she is parting with her husband, she goes out empty handed. In general the Gallas take three wives. When the father of a family dies, the childi'en cut off their hair and shave themselves. They then slaughter a cow and eat it with their relations, but not before the dead is interred. Marriages are performed before the Abatiila, a petty governor of several villages. If a Gallas kills a male, he is to pay 100 Kum, that is to say, 100 oxen, and is otherwise punished. If he kills a female, he is to pay fifty Kum, or fifty oxen. As to the places of the dead, they are of opinion, that Christians, Mahomedans, and Gallas go to different places after death. Aloes are planted on their graves. As soon as the plant begins to grow, they say, that the soul of the dead is gone to the garden, to the Wake, — the God of the universe, whom they consider an invisible and very fine being. When a Galla has been detected in lying, he is despised, and loses his seat and vote in public meetings. Berkie also told me, that a species of great leopards existed in the province of Shoa Meda, which are fiercer than those of Efat, and enter into the house of the people : it is called Woba. I am unable to say whether it is the Asiatic tiger. I asked a priest, who was with me about the com'se which the Abyssinian teachers pvirsued in instructing youths. He said, that the boys were first instructed INSTRUCTION OF YOUTHS. 153 iu reading the seven Epistles, called Catholic — the Abyssiniaus call them Gebata Hawarjat. Afterv\'ard they read the Book of Revelations, the Gospels, the Acts, and Epistles of St. Paul, They learn by heart the greater part of these books. Afterward they read the Organon Mariam, Isaiah, AYoudassie Anilak, Hiob, Psalms, Synkesar, Guebra Hemamat, Gadela Georgis, Pentateuch, Genset, Semarie and Kenie, and Aboo- shaker. A learned man knomng all this is called a great Lik (master). Few people finish this course. The greater part of the scholars are content with learn- ing singing, as they are enabled by this to officiate in Church after having taken holy orders. The course of study is different in some parts of Abyssinia, as, for instance, in Godtsham, as I learned from the blind Debtera Habta Mariam. October 28, 1839— A Debtera of the Church of St. Mai-y's came requesting us to give him the seven colours. We asked, which colours he meant. He replied, Efran, Kai Kallem, Maseka, Afera Mesk, Kafara Lake, Sum el far ; but the seventh he did not know. As the Abyssi- niaus believe that a man who has got these seven colours is in possession of all wisdom, we remarked, that we wondered at their being so ignorant, if they knew of such a remedy; but as for ourselves, we did not know any other way of getting knowledge than by daily ex- ercise, and prayer for God's blessing. This evening I finished reading with Tseddoo the Epistle of St. Paul to the Galatians: I have endeavoured H 5 154 ABYSSINIAN LITURGY. to show him from this Epistle the scriptural way of becoming righteous before God. The son of Alaca Serat came, saying, that as Mr. Isenberg was going, and I intended to remain in their country, I should follow their customs. I said, that we who are called Christians were to be directed by the Word of God, and not to encourage each other to follow human customs, God's Word alone showing us the way of salvation. I added, that I would rather encourage them to follow me, because if they examined my doctrine and life, they would find that it was more consistent with the Word of God, than their doctrines and lives. From that time he said no more about this. October 29, 1839 — The priest Tseddoo brought to me another book called, " Ridan." He then said, " If you go to our Church, you must kiss it before you enter." I said, "You must worship Him who re- sides in the Church, and is higher than the Chm*ch ; and your worship must be performed in truth and spirit." He then went away, but soon returned again, bringing with him the Abyssinian Liturgy. I found much therein which pleased me. I showed him our English Liturgy on this occasion. Afterward, a man of Gondar came, whom we asked about the present King, Wolda Dcnghel. He said that he was only a nominal King, and had no power at all ; that his annual income was 300 dollars, which he received from his Governors ; and besides which he has a share in the butter which is sold in the market place. BAPTISMAL SERVICE. 155 This afternoon I was present at a baptismal service, to which INIamhera Tseddoo had also invited j\Ir. Krapf, but who declined the invitation. Two grown lip Mahomedans were baptized; one of them a man, a native of Gui'ague, the other a girl about four- teen years old, from the Dankali countrj^ both of whom were slaves ; with two little children, a boy and a girl. The service was performed under trees in the church- yard of St. George's. There were present several deacons and school boys, the persons to be baptized, with their respective god-fathers and god-mothers — each male having a god-father, and each female a god-mother — and the priest Tseddoo ; in all about twenty persons. Tseddoo with one of the Deacons, both clad in coloured Siu'at cloth, were the chief agents. The semce commenced in the greatest possible disor- der, all running to and fro. A deacon began to sing, and exhorted to prayer ; whereupon all joined to make a great clamour, singing the Wadassieh INIariam. A large broken jar, instead of the baptismal font, was then brought ; when, after a little more singing, the Priest Tseddoo inquired after the persons to be baptized, their god-fathers and god-mothers, and then laid his hands on the heads of the candidates. The Nicene Creed and the Lord's Prayer were then repeated, and the third Chapter of St. John's Gospel read with the ut- most rapidity. The baptismal jar was then filled \\ith water, and consecrated in the following manner. Tseddoo held it over a censer filled with frankincense. 156 BAPTISMAL SERVICE. having an iron cross in the other hand ; and bowing himself over the water, sang, " Blessed be the Father, and the Son, and the Holy Ghost ;" then raising his voice as loudly as he could, exclaimed, " One Holy' Father," at the same time di-awing the cross through the water in a cross direction, and touching the jar on four opposite parts in the form of a cross — " And one Holy Son " — repeating the same ceremony — " And one Holy Spirit," performing the same act, while the by- standers sang. The candidates then approached, led or carried by their sponsors, Tseddoo and the assisting Deacon each took from the sponsors one candidate, carrying the children under the arm, and taking the grown-up candidates by their beads, and made them worship in a circle, toward the fom- direc- tions of the horizon, the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit. The childi-en were then taken up, and dipped in the water up to the loins ; first in the name of the Father ; then in the name of the Son, and, in the name of the Holy Spirit, they were quite im- mersed under the water, when the words were pro- noimced : " N. N. I baptize thee in the name of the Father, and the Son, and the Holy Spirit." The two grown up individuals were ordered to undress themselves entirely, and sit on the ground. A bason full of water was then three times poured over them, with which they were ordered to wash themselves so that the water might be taken to every part of the body, the priest at the same time repeating with each of them the words THE ZELANES. 157 of baptism: ''N. N. I baptize thee, &c." Tliey then presented to the priest a horn full of merom — the sacred oil — into which four cotton cords were dipped ; one of which the priest took out for each person baptized, with which he made the sign of the cross on theii- foreheads, and then tied it round their necks, pronouncing a bless- ing over each of them. They then sang again, and thus the service was finished. After this, all went into the Church, in order to see the communion administered to the newly baptized persons. I also entered the Church, to witness that rite ; but as it lasted too long, I could not persuade myself to stay to the close. October 30, 1839 — The man of Gondar, who was with us yesterday, called again to-day. We asked him about the Zelanes, a people mentioned in Mr. Gobat's Joiirnal, He said, that the Zelanes of Amhara were the same as those called in Shoa, " Abelam ; " and that both are wandering shepherds, and have the same religious ideas with other Abyssinians ; and that in Shoa, an Alaca is placed over them. He added, that they were a good people. The people, called Falashas, he said on Good Friday butcher a she-goat, which they hang up and lash, to put an affront upon the Messiah of the Christians. He also informed us, that there was another people called Figen, dwelling in the district of Baksa, in the province of Kuara, who have no religious communion, either with Christians or Mahomedans. Figen means "bad," and they are said to be mur- derers and sorcerers, and able by their enchantment 158 CUSTOM OF VARIOUS to fix the elephant on a certain spot, so that he cannot move. They kill this beast, and sell its teeth to the people of Kuara and Agow. The Kamauntes, he said, dwell particularly in Dembea, Woggora, and Kerker. They have priests and receive baptism ; but are said to practise particular ceremonies in the forests. They have a great esteem for the cactus plant, from which they think that mankind had its origin. They call God, "the glory." "WTien any of them dies, they pre- pare a great Tescar. They will only eat the meat which has been slaughtered by the Abyssinians on Satui'day. I do not know whether the Abyssinians are prevented from eating with them ; but if they eat with a Falasha, they are excommunicated by the priests. The Woitos, another kind of people, are dwelling on the shores of the lake in Dembea, where they hunt after the hippo- potamus, the flesh of which they like as well as that of other beasts, which the Abyssinians detest. This people are like the Wato people among the Gallas, as I shall mention hereafter. I began to-day to study the Galla language with the assistance of my Galla servant. November 1, 1839 — Several priests and Debteras came to see us. One of them received the Acts and the Epistles of St. Paul. Arkadis, the teacher of our Guebra Georgis, complained of Guebra's leaving his school and being too much with us. I requested him to let the boy come to me when he had finished his lesson in school ; which he promised to do. GALL A TRIBES. 159 November 2 — Guebra Georgis did not come to-day. I understand that having become too free in opposing the Abyssinian errors, his father, as well as his teacher, had endeavom'ed to draw him away from me, or at least to let him come very seldom for my instruction. In the afternoon I read in Genesis with sLx boys, who have come to me from different Churches. A Debtera hearing me speak about sin and death, represented the con- nexion of sin and death in these words : " Sin is the needle, and death the thread." November 3, Lord's Day — To-day I read with Guebra Georgis the first five chapters of Exodus ; and then read Chm-ch History \\\i\i him, as far as the pro- pagation of the Gospel through Gregorius Illimiinator in Armenia, and through Trumcatus and Edesius in Abyssinia. November 4 — To-day I began to read the Epistle of St. James with Tseddoo, showing him the connexion there is between good works and real faith, which is preached so strongly by St. Paul. In the afternoon we heard that the Governor had made ready the provi- sions for Mr. Isenberg, and that Wulasma ]\Iahomed had sent word to set out immediately. CHAPTER III. DEPARTURE OF MR. ISEXBERG FROM ANKOBAR — NOTICES RESPECTING SOME ANCIENT SAINTS — REVERENCE FOR THE SABBATH BY THE GAL- LAS— DISCUSSION WITH A DEBTERA ON ORIGINAL SIN — CONVERSA- TIONS ON VARIOUS SUBJECTS — ABYSSINIAN REMEDY FOR THE SMALL- POX — SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION — DISCUSSION ON THE THREE BIRTHS OF CHRIST — ATTACKED BY FEVER — THE FAST OF TSOMA LEDAT — COPIES OF THE AAIHARIC SCRIPTURES DISTRIBUTED — NOTICES OF THE GALLAS DWELLING IN THE EAST OF GURAGUE— VISITED BY PRIESTS FROM GURAGUE— BAPTISMAL CEREMONY. November %, 1839 — Mr. Isenberg departed to-day, and I accompanied him to Farri, on the ft-ontier of Shoa. November 12 — This morning I bid farewell to my Brother Isenberg, recommending him to our covenant God, on his long jom-ney. IVIy heart was deeply moved, and I could not but weep, knoA\dng that I was alone in this country. The words of Christ, Lo, lam with you alway, even unto the end of the tcorld, strengthened me. November 13 — Tlie King retm*ned from his expedi- tion against the Gallas in jNIugher. M. Rochet, who had accompanied the King, gave me some particulars about this exnedition. They marched, he said, through KINDNESS OF THE KING. 161 the tribes of Abedtshoo^ Gelan, Woberi, Betsho, Mugher, and Fajab ; that among the tribe Fajah, they found, on a mountain, twelve churches, and a number of Christians, who had been preserved a long time in the midst of barbarous heathens ; and that twenty Gallas had been killed on this expedition. November 14 — Alaca Sekima came to see me in the morning. He told me about some ancient saints, who had pulled out their eyes and cast them before \'ultures, and who had rode on lions. I said, that if they did that, they were not saints, because a saint kept God's ^\'ord, which connuands us not to mutilate our bodies ; and that a true saint humbled himself under the grace of God ; and employed his powers of body and soul in the service of his jVIaker and for the good of his fellow-creatures. In the afternoon, I went to see Alaca Wolda Hanna, who is sick. Afterward, the King's boy brought me a sheep and some bread, and asked whether I wanted an)i;hing else ; adding, that as my brother Isenberg had left, the King felt a tender care for me. November 15 — The boy came again and inquired after my wants. The blind Habta Mariam came, to whom I explained Rom. viii. and ix. November 16 — Studying the Galla language. In the Scripture lessons I read Col. ii. and iii., explain- ing to my people the duties of childi'cn, fathers and mothers, servants and masters. To-day Tseddoo spoke about Saturday, which they 162 REVERENCE FOR THE SABBATH. celebrate something like the people of Godtsham. I said^ " The Word of God commands us to work six days, and to rest on the seventh ; but you say, that people should labom* five days, and rest from work two days. As regards the Day of rest, you do not strictly keep Satur- day or Sunday ;" proving my words by referring to their actions. I then told him how it was that in the pri- mitive Church both days were celebrated, and that the celebration of Saturday was abrogated afterward. Finally, I showed him the necessity of resting in God every day. He then said, that Christ was born on Sun- day, as it is written in the book of Sena Fetrat. On asking him for pi'oofs of the divine authority of this book, he was silent. My Galla servant told me, that his people paid great reverence to the Lord's Day ; that they did not work on that day, nor sleep with their wives ; and that they rose up early before day break, to pray to the AYake. They call the Sunday, Sanbata Gadda — Great Sabbath — in opposition to Sanbata Tena, which means. Little Sabbath. November 17, 1839 — I saw this afternoon a sad spectacle. Five hundi-ed slaves were brought to Anko- bar from Gurague. WTien will the time come that slavery, this disgrace of mankind, will be abolished in all Christian countries ! Noveviher 18 — A Debtera, whose name is Sentshar, had a long conversation with me. This man is in many respects a perfect rationalist. On account of his con- troversial spirit with the priests of Shoa, he was dis- CONVERSATION WITH A DEBTERA. 1G3 missed by the King, but has since been restored, and made the Alaca of a cliiu'cli in the neiglibom'liood of Machfood. He began by saying, that childi-en are born free from sin, white Hke snow ; and that man dies in consequence of his oa\ti sin. I remarked, first, that Adam om* first parent, was unclean before God ; and that he begat children in his own image. Secondly, that Moses declared that the thoughts and desu'es of man were sinful from a child. (Gen. vi. 5.) Thu'dly, that death is the wages of sin (Rom. \-ii. 23.) ; and that con- sequently as childi-en die, they cannot be without sin : that is, without a sinful disposition, which they inherit from their parents, according to Psalm li. And Christ also says, that lohick is horn of the flesh is flesh. (John iii. 6.) Fourthly, that had not Christ been born of the Holy Ghost, He would have been unclean like ourselves, and disqualified to become om* Sa\'ioui\ He endeavoured to invalidate this last argument, and then took refuge in mystical interpretations. He said, that God in the beginning had created heaven and earth ; and that heaven meant ' godly ,^ and earth ' fleshly : ' and that thus childi-en were born godly, but afterward became fleshly. I proved to him, that Moses spoke historically, and not mystically ; and then showed him the bad consequences of their mode of explaining the Bible. He then said, that wheat is fij-st good, after- ward becomes bad, and weed is seen in the field. I replied, that it cannot be otherwise, because the earth has been cursed on account of the sin of Adam ; so 164 CONVERSATION WITH that now it is the uatiu'c of the earth to bring forth weed, and wall not produce good fruit unless it is cultivated. Thus the nature of man being corrupt, cannot but produce corruption, if not renewed by the Holy Spirit, according to John iii. He then in- sisted upon maintaining that man becomes sinful by outward seduction. I replied, that the seduction was first inward, as St. James clearly shows, (chap, i.) ; that from the heart proceed evil thoughts, murders, 8^'c. Matt. XV. Besides, if sin originated only in outward seduction, why did they not flee from it, seeing its bad consequences in Adam ; that they had virtue and strength enough to do so, if they were born without corruption, and hence needed not a Savioui' ; but that the whole was a contradiction to Scripture, which tells us, that we cannot even think anything good, and still less do any real good work, so long as we are unrenewed by the Holy Ghost. November 22, 1839 — Tseddoo came to day, to speak about the archangel Michael, who, he said, had con- ducted the Israelites through the Red Sea. I replied, You are in contradiction with the Word of God, 1 Cor. x. We then spoke about the power of the priests, but were interrupted by Ay to Engeda, who came to see me. While he was with us, we read a passage in the book " Amada Mistir," on which I made some remarks. This book states, that the angel Gabriel came to Shoa in the figure of an old man. I asked, whether this was written in the Bible ? He answered in the nes-ative. PRIEST TSEDDOO. 165 "Well/' I replied, " why do you teach it, if you have no proof of it in God's Word ? " A5i:o Engeda said, that I had spoken the truth. In another part of this book it is stated that the humanity of Christ returned to His Deity. I said, that was an unscriptural confusion ; that the word became flesh, as St. John says; but that we could not say, that the flesh became God. We then spoke about saints, and that it was a sin to make them our mediators and Sanours. I said that if we had Christ, we had all with him, even the saints. The priest then said, " But all our books come from you, the people of Jerusalem." I repHed, I know that our fathers and those of the Oriental Church, have, in many things, gone astray from the truth; but that God knowing this before, had given His Word, and promised to guide us into all truth by His Spirit, that we might know His will and examine the doctrines of our fathers, on whom we were not to found our faith ; and that if we were to rely upon our fathers, the heathens w^ould say the same with respect to their religion. With re- gard to ourselves, the Christians of the West, I said, that we had, three hundred years ago, left the errors of our fathers and followed the pure Word of God, pro- testing against all human traditions and additions ; and therefore we were called Protestants. Tseddoo then said, "Well, allowing this, the principal thing is to keep God's word, and to impart our goods to every body, as Christ says. Give to him that asketh thee." I asked, Does God give His Spirit to wicked men, who 166 CONVERSATION ON THE will not leave tlieir sins ? He answered, that He did not. " But does not God," I said, give His Holy Spirit to those who ask for it with a real desire ? " He re- plied in the affirmative. "Well," I said, thus we should also give to those who are in want of our assis- tance, supposing we have the means of doing so. If Christ says, Give to him that asketh thee, that means that we should be ready to assist our fellow- creatures wherever and as much as we can." Afterward I had Church History with Guebra Georgis and others. Then Alaca Tesfa came begging me for a copy of the Amharic Psalms, which I gave him. Two Debteras also came and asked, whether it was true that our Book of Psalms contained three hundred Psalms. I said, that it was not; that we were content AA-ith an hundi-ed and fifty Psalms ; and that we should keep these in our hearts and become a holy people like David was. I then spoke about their contents being useful in various situations of life, and found fault with the Abyssinian custom of reciting them so often. November 23, 1839— During my reading with several boys, Sentshar came again, bringing with him a book called " Meelad." He said, that Christ him- self had maintained in John ix. that neither the blind man nor his parents were culpable, and consequently a sinful corruption did not communicate itself to childi'en. I said, that this passage did not at all prove what he wished — that he should have a regard SINFUL CORRUPTION OF CHILDREN. 167 to the question of Christ's disciples^ as well as Christ's answer — that if God inflicts great distress upon a man (like Job), people are ready to say, that he must have been a great sinner, else he would not have to undergo so many calamities — and that the disciples of Christ judging thus, asked their INIaster, whether the blind man before his birth committed a particular sin, or whether his parents had not sinned in such a manner, that their sin was punished in theii* son ; but that Jesus disowned both, saying, that the reason was that the works of God work might be manifested. Hence this passage, I said, does not speak about the connexion between the corruption of children and their parents ; but that the principal scope of it is to show, that great bodily calamities are sometimes inflicted upon persons for reasons unknown to human understanding ; and that we are not allowed to judge in such a case un- kindly, or according to our ideas about the moral cha- racter of our fellow-crcatm'es. Ha\ing given Sentshar an explanation of this passage, I proceeded to streng- then my former proofs of the sinful corruption in which children are born. A\Tien speaking about the impu- tation of the sin of Adam, I remarked, that though we became sinners on account of Adam, yet that God in His love did not for Christ's sake impute sin to us : however, we are under the law of death. He then asked, why we must die, as we had not deserved it like Adam. I said, that we must die on account of our sinful nature; and that supposing this were not so, yet we had deserved 168 ON CHRONOLOGY. nothing; tliat God liad created our souls to immor- tality ; and that Christ himself died, who had not de- served death. Thus God could let children die, though they had not deserved it. In short, children are born with a sinful natvu-e derived from Adam ; and that on account of their corrupt nature are childi-en of God's WTath and must che. That God does not impute this sinful state to them as their own ; but forgives it for Christ's sake, and declares this forgiveness in baptism, and which therefore is a strong proof of man's natural corruption ; and that the corrupt nature communicated by Adam and to us by our parents, is the real source of om' own sins and punishment. I then spoke about the necessity of a mediator, and the way of receiving him. Afterward, Sentshar endeavoured to prove their chro- nology from Luke i. 26., when the angel Gabriel was sent to Mary in the sixth month after he had been sent to Zacharias. A month, he said, was a thousand years, because David said, one day is as a thousand years before God. I replied, that if he reckoned in this allegorical way, he must count 30,000 years, because David did not say that a thousand years were like a month, but one day. Then I showed him how our chronology is got in a historical way. He then spoke about a book called Kufahe, in which is contained what God said to Moses on the mountain during forty days. I said, that all that was necessary for us to know respecting that holy discourse was wTitten in the Pentateuch. A strong proof, I said, that we should not know what God had REMEDY FOR THE SMALL-POX. 169 not revealed was to be found in Rev. x. 4., where St. John was prevented from writing what the seven thunders had uttered ; and that it was only human curiosity that wished to disclose what God had concealed. Sentshar then spoke about St. Mary. November 26, 1839 — M. Rochet communicated to me his plan of going to Sentshero, and returning by way of Enarea. A Debtera then came, and said that blasphemy was no sin ; but I showed him the contrary from Matt. XV., and the example of Michael the Archangel in the Epistle of St. Jude. In the evening, M. Rochet brought me a number of potatoes, which he had obtained from the King, who received them from Mr. Isenberg at Adowah. I planted them, and they have gro^Mi up very well. November 28—1 read Rom. x. to the blind Debtera, and afterward went to see the Governor of the town. As the small-pox was said to exist in the north of Shoa, I asked Guebra what remedy was used in Abyssinia against it. He said, that they made an incision in the fore arm, and put therein the lymph from an infected person, covering it with wool. This operation stood the test, as Guebra himself had experienced. The scar was still to be seen on his arm. The vaccination of Europe is not yet known to the Abyssinians, they being content with the inoculation of the small-pox. How- ever, they do not think of inoculating, till the small- pox has broken out in their neighbourhood. When the disease exists at x\nkobar, the King retires to the I 170 SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION. village of ]\Iacliel Wans, where no one is admitted to his presence, as he is in great fear of being infected. Mer- chants and travellers are also prevented from entering Shoa. Thus we have an example of a cordon militaire in Abyssinia. November 29, 1839— Studying the Galla language. A Debtera asked me, vi-hether it would be sin if he took a second wife, his fii-st having died. I directed him to Rom. vii. 2. He was surprised at not having before seen my meaning in this passage. When we spoke about fast- ing, I remarked, that a new birth, and not fasting, was the condition of entering into the kingdom of Christ. November 30 — Debtera Habta Selassie came to see me. He spoke about the bush of Moses, which he ex- plained as being applicable to Mary, she having brought forth Christ without being consumed. This matter led me to remark on the necessity of interpreting the Scriptures in a historical and grammatical way. After- ward, our Workie began to dispute vehemently mth me, saying, that it was insolent to maintain that Mary had other childi-en besides Christ. I read Matt. i. 25 ; Mark iii. 32—35 ; John i. 3 ; Acts i. 14 ; 1 Cor. ix. 5 ; and said, that from these passages we might con- clude that Mary had childi-en by Joseph. But as he bitterly opposed and declaimed against the Protestant Chm-ches, I du-ected the discom-se to practical remarks. He is a selfish and self-righteous man. I should not wish his sons, who are educated in Dr. Wilson's School at Bombay, to come here as long as he resides VISIT FROM x\LACA SEKTMA. 171 in this country, as he would become rather an obstacle to them. In the evening I read an account of the late Rev. T. Blumhardt. I related to my people several important facts, which pleased them much. I much wish that a short history of Missions were translated into Amharic or ^Ethiopic. December 1 — Workie endeavoured to attack the doc- trine of the English Church respecting the Lord's Sup- per, and spoke about the various sects of England, of w^hich he had heard dming his stay at Bombay. I made him feel and know, in a friendly manner, that he was unacquainted with our doctrines and his own heart. I endeavour to the utmost to remain on friendly terms wath this proud man, as I know how much harm he could do to my work in this country, if he let loose his bitter spirit against me. We brought him from Cairo to this countiy without entering into an en- gagement with him, being then of opinion that he would prove useful in maintaining our connexion with the sea-coast ; but time has shown that he seeks only his own interest. In the afternoon Alaca Sekima called upon me. He spoke about Samuel, a former saint of Abyssinia, who rode on lions. I reminded him of what 1 had formerly said against this folly. He then spoke of Eostatius, Tecla Haimanot, and Antonius, monks who had each instituted a particular religious order. The monk Samuel has also his followers in Abyssinia. I -2 172 CONVERSATION Sentshar came again to dispute about the three births of Christ. He saicl^ that in Lukeii. 11., Christ, which name meant " anointed," was called so at His birth. Hence there were, first, His eternal birth ; secondly. His birth in the flesh; and thirdly, the unction of the Holy Ghost in the womb, which they call the third birth. I remarked, that they could not prove the third birth from the passage quoted, because the Son of God is called " the anointed" in Psalm ii. 2 ; and, secondly, the Prophet Daniel tells us his name, (chap. ix. 26.) ; consequently, according to their view, He must have been anointed at the time of the Old Testament, when the Word had not yet become flesh. In the same way He was called by the name of Jesus, (Matt, i.) before He had saved mankind. Christ is related to both natm'es. His being called " the anointed," relates only to His humanity , ■v\hich was anointed when He was about to perform the work of om- redemption. You must not separate the his- torical connexion of the Gospel. The baptism of Christ and His unction of the Holy Ghost, stand in connexion with the beginning of His work : Matt, iii andiv. ; Luke iii. and iv. Sentshar is an extravagant Monophysite ; for he said, that the godhead died and fasted in the huma- nity of Christ. He then spoke about the mu-acles of Tecla Haimanot, who had converted a very impious heathen. I related to him the history of the Missions on the Feejee and the Friendly Islands. December 4, 1839 — Tliis morning I was attacked with fever. A sick man in this country is in a pitiable con- ON "THE THREE BIRTHS/' 173 dition, as the people immediately run together^ weep- ing, giving their foolish counsels, and speaking of devils and exorcism. December 5 — I was much better this morning. A dose of tartar emetic and quinine did me good yester- day. Sentshar came again to dispute -, but I turned the discourse to real conversion, according to John iii. The deadness of the Abyssinians casts me down very often. They hear wdth one ear, and let it pass through the other. I finished the first chapter of John in my Galla translation. December' 7 — To-day Tsoma Ledat commenced. This fast is in remembrance of Christ's incarnation. The monks only are obliged to keep it. I read to Habta Mariam Rom. xii and xiii. Sentshar asked for a Pentateuch, which I gave him. December 8 — Alaca Sekima came. He said that I should make him my confessor, or nafs-abat ; be- cause if I should die, nobody would absolve me. I said, that it was Christ to whom I daily confessed my sins, and I knew that He absolves me for the sake of His sufferings and death ; that if Christ shut me out of His kingdom, the confessor could not open it to mc ; and that if Christ has opened, nobody can shut. Tlicn Sekima spoke about the late Muallcm, an Armenian, who was considered the Abuna of Shoa; and who, when angry with his servants, had thrown away all the Zatsh (hydromel) which was in his house. I replied, that it did not become a Christian, and still less an 174 READING CHURCH HISTORY. Abuua, to waste God's gifts. Afterward, several boys came, to whom I read a little tract which I had trans- lated, containing the essential doctrines of the Gospel. December 11, 1839— Guebra Georgis, who some days ago was attacked by fever, is getting better. I gave him the medicine which I had found useful myself. This morning a Governor of the WoUo Gallas came, begging me for medicine against epilepsy. He said, that he had tried the efficacy of anmlets written by Christians and jMahomedans, but that they were all of no use. After- ward, I finished wdth Guebra Georgis the second period of Church History, speaking about Pelagius, Augusti- nus, and Origen, the latter of whom is considered a heretic in Abyssinia. December 13 — We came in Chm-ch History to Ma- homed. I showed that Mahomed did not know the nature of sin, as well as God's justice and holiness ; and therefore he was not in want of a Sa^doiu- ; that the extravagances of Christians at his time contri- buted much to his rising ; and that the speedy propa- gation of his rehgion was produced by his sword and fleshly religious ideas. We then spoke about Diony- sius Areopagita, who is highly esteemed by the Abys- sinians. I showed that neither Kyi'ill, Athanasius, nor Chrysostom, knew his works ; consequently they could not have been wa-itten by the Dionysius men- tioned in Acts x\di. ; and that it was usual at that time for impostors to \\Tite useless books, which they stamped MISSION TO THE GALLAS. 175 with apostolical names to procure an access to their contemporai'ies on behalf of their lies. Guebra said, " I have understood this." I should like if a number of priests would study Chm'ch History. December 14 — This morning I reflected much upon going to the Gallas, being grieved at the indiffer- ence of the Abyssinian Christians, and encouraged myself to study the language of the Galla people. I also reflected upon the principles which I should adopt in my translation. I had hitherto used the Amharic characters ; but observing that the Galla language is no Semitic one, that Avriting in Amharic has many incon- veniences, and that perhaps the ^Vord of God may go forth from the Gallas to the whole of Abyssinia, I thought it better to use the Latin characters, employ- ing for the words not found in the Galla language the characters of the Abyssinian languages, on account of the national connexion of both countries. I know that in using foreign characters I shall be opposed by the Abyssinian priests, who wish nothing else but the J^thiopic to be circulated. May the Lord help me in this work to the glory of His Name ! December 15 — To-day I finished reading the Epis- tle of St. Paul to the Romans with the blind Debtera Habta Mai'iam. I briefly rcjieated the whole contents, particularly the doctrines of sin and grace, and exhorted this man to yield up his whole heart to Christ, who would give him spii'itual understanding and eternal life, if he received the doctrines of the Gospel into his 176 DISTRIBUTION OF THE SCRIPTURES. heart. I then related to him the case of a poor bHnd woman in my country, who having heard this Epistle read, had retained it in her memory, and received into her heart, till her death, when she left this world in faith and triumph. Several priests came in the course of this day to beg for books. I distributed three copies of the New Tes- tament and a copy of the Pentateuch. They requested ^Ethiopic copies, which I was unable to give them. December 18, 1839 — As the father of Guebra Georgis had directed me to read with Guebra the Gospel of St. j\Iark in ^thiopic, I complied with his w4sh ; but I also read it in Amharic. \\lien I have finished with him Church History, I intend to introduce him to the biblical books, having already translated a treatise con- taining the following points : The many ways in which God has revealed Himself to mankind — that the prin- cipal subject of biblical history is the Kingdom of God — the way in which the Bible took its rise — the evidences that the Bible is the Word of God — how the Bible came to us — how it is to be read — and the names of the Books and their principal contents. In the afternoon a Debtera came and spoke much about evil spirits, budos, and amulets. I expressed my gi'ief at learning that the Debteras, called Christians, vised from ignorance and worldly interest to write amu- lets for the Gallas ; showed him the uselessness and sinfulness of such practices ; and exhorted him to the duty of the Debteras instinicting their own people. RECEIVE NEWS FROM TIGRE. 177 as well as the Gallas, in scriptiu-al and other useful knowledge. December 19 — Read with Guebra in the Gospel ; afterward the Introduction to the Bible. Debtera Habta Selassie being with us, manifested delight in this study. The father of Guebra came, and spoke about the Tabiban before-mentioned; and said, that he with a friend once at night listened to their prayers, when they prayed to the Angel Phanuel that the Messiah might come veiy soon. December 20 — Guebra with other people seeing in my room a Ti'eatise, printed in German, called, " The book of the heart of a sinner,'^ with pictures, was much struck ; and wished to have it in Amharic, A\nth the pictures. I finished Genesis with several boys who have come regularly for the last month. December 21 — To-day I received news from Tigre through a servant of Hadji Johannes at Adowah. I learned that Kidana iMariam, the former servant of Mr. Isenberg, had died at Jiddah, where he was mth Mr. Shimpei*, a German Botanist ; and that three Euro- peans had also arrived at Adowah, with several Catholic priests. Abder Rachman, the dragoman of Mr. Rochet, came to see me. He is a native of Argobba. He attempted to prove that the Argobbanians came from Sana, in Arabia ; and that the Gallas entered into Abyssinia by way of Mecca and Jiddah. I told him that the Gallas had nothing common with the Arabians, either in their 178 THE ALACA OF MANS. language or religion ; besides which, the Abyssinian books stated that the Gallas came from the south of Abyssinia. As to the Argobbanians, I said, that he wished to derive the rise of his people from the holy land of the Mahomedans. He then said, that ar (or bar) means silk ; and gobba cloth, because the Argobbanians had formerly worn clothes of silk, when they came from Arabia. As for the rest, the language of Argobba is said to be nearly the same as that of Horror. Two priests of Gurague afterward called, and spoke to me about a petty Christian empire called Cambat, in the south of Gurague. They also told me, that the Gallas pay great respect to the serpent, keeping it in their houses, and feeding it with milk; and that some of the Gallas are of opinion that the serpent was the father of mankind. All that these priests said was confirmed by my Galla servant. December 25, 1839 — The Alaca of Mans, whose name is Wolda Haimanot, came to see me. He is the Alaca of thirty- eight churches, and one of the most respected priests of Shoa, and loved even by the King. He asked whether there were Mahomedans in my country ; and then said, '^We Abyssinians drink from the well of the Patriarch of Alexandria." I rephed, " In my country we di'ink from the Word of God, from Christ, who said, I am the way, the truth, and the life." I at first thought that he came to dispute ; but I found him a man of no bitter spirit. He begged GALL A TRIBE ARROOSI. 179 me to teach him the names of the Amharic Alphabet, having heard that I knew them. I complied with his request. I also gave him a copy of the Epistles of St. Paul, which he thankfully received. December 26 — A priest of Gurague came to see me. I asked him about the Gallas dwelling in the east of Gurague. He said, that the most powerful tribe was that of the Arroosi Gallas, who fought quite naked in battle, in order to frighten their enemies ; that in their country much salt was obtained and ex- ported to Gurague and the Galla countries in the neighbourhood ; and that there was a great lake, called Laghi. He also told me of a priest, who died several years ago at Ankobar, who had travelled from Shoa to Tadjurra, from thence to Cairo, returning by way of Sennar to Gondar; and that afterward he went to Enarea, and returned by way of Caffa, Cambat, and Gurague, to Ankobar, where he died. In the lake of Gurague, called Suai, five islands exist, in which the treasm-es of the ancient Abyssinian Kings, are said to have been hidden from Gragne when he en- tered Abyssinia. That there are ^thiopic books is con- firmed by a man whom the King sent there as a spy. The houses of the Guragueans are described as being much better built than those of Shoa, which, by the Gm-agu- eans, are called stables. But their houses are widely separated from each other; and hence much occasion is given to kidnappers. The main reason of this sepa- rated state of the Gui-agueans is, I am told, the 180 PRACTICE OF KIDNAPPING. enmity of the people one against the other^ and the total want of civil order. Children sleep by the side of their parents ; but^ notwithstanding this, kidnappers annually take a great number. These fellows break through the walls of the house at night, put a large stick upon the necks of the parents, and take away their children : if the children make an outcry, they ])ut a rag into their mouths. In many houses, children sleep on beams placed across, in the upper part of the house ; but kidnappers penetrate also to that place. If the walls of the houses should be too strong, the robbers at night make a pit around the house, which they set on fire; when the inhabitants, going out, fall into this trench, and are seized, with their children. In general, the Guragueans are blamed as being a bad people ; as they have not civil authority, and are surrounded by Gallas and Mahomedans. The jurisdiction of Shoa is only and slowly extended to Aimellela, on the frontier of Gu- rague beyond the Hawash, If this country does not get soon a settled order, it will be desolated after a little time, because a great number of slaves are annually brought from thence. One brother sells the children of his brother ; and the people are stolen in going from one village to the other. December 27, 1839 — This morning ten priests from Gurague came to see me. They arrived here yesterday. I read with them in the Gospel, and exhorted them to become true followers of Christ, that they might be able to teach their poor people and the surrounding heathens. DESIRE FOR .ETHIOPIC SCRIPTURES. 181 I distributed several copies of the New Testament among them. They told me about a country called Wolamo^ beyond Cambat, where there are Christians, but without priests at present. Beyond "VVolamo is a large Galla tribe, called Alaba. Mr. Ludolf has men- tioned the Alabas in his History. About Sentshero they could not tell me much. The way to Cambat conducts through the Adia Galla Tribes. In Gurague is a hea- thenish people, called Fuga. They are a wandering people, and eat all that the Guragueans abhor. December 28 — To-day my luggage arrived from Tad- jm-ra. The King wished to possess many of the things; and several priests having heard that my books had arrived, came to me, bringing yni\i them iEthiopic books, which they wished to change for iEthiopic New Testaments. December 29 — Many people came to-day, begging for books and medicine. I sent a copy of the New Testament to the Governor of Gurague, whose name is Nef homus. To-day, the general Alaca of Shoa, whose name is Guebra, was dismissed as he had written a bad amulet against the King. I read in the Gospel with a number of boys. In an iEthiopic book, which a Deb- tera brought to mc in order to change it, was wi-itten, " Whoever shall sell this book, is cursed for ever." On this account people will not sell their books, but change them for others, or lend the book to make a copy. December 30 — A priest from the lake Haik, in the tribe of the Wollo Gallas, called upon me. He said, 18.2 DEMAND FOR BOOKS. that there was a Church, called St. Stephanos, which was built 1300 years ago. I gave him a copy of the New Testament, and sent another for the Chui-ch. I spoke again with the King about my journey to Gm-ague ; but he would not allow me to go, saying, that if I should be killed, my countiymen would make him responsible. January 1, 1840 — A new year. May it be a year of gi-ace to my heart, as well as to the whole of Abys- sinia! "\^Tiile I was reflecting upon the past year, pouring out my heart in confessing my sins, and thank- ing the Lord for all the spiritual and temporal gifts which He had bestowed upon me, the King's boy came, delivering to me 250 dollars which Ali Arab had brought. I again gave thanks to God, who knows the wants of His people. People are continually coming and asking for books. Would that I had a large quantity ! January 6 — To-day I went to the King, begging him to change the money which I had received, a great part of it not passing in this country. He comphed wdth my request. Other people of Gurague came asking for books. I spoke with them a good while about John iii. ; and then gave them what they had asked for. The Guragueans are great beggars. They fall down at my feet, begging only for a piece of salt. If they go to Shoa, they appear nearly naked, sapng, that the Gallas robbed them on the way; and then they get clothes from the King, which the ANNUAL FESTIVAL OF BAPTISM. 183 Gallas will not rob, knowing that the King would be- come angry with them. January 10 — The King departed for Angollala. This morning, the Lebashi was with me, begging for medicine. The duty of this man is to go over the whole country, and to take all people who are sus- pected of robbery. He appears to be a man of energy. Wolda Haimot, the son of Alaca Serat, then came asking me about Mahomed and his religion. I said, that jMahomed could not have been sent by God, as he taught doctrines quite contrary to the Old and New Testaments ; and that if he is called a messenger, he is the messenger of the antichrist, yea, he is himself, because St. John said, that whosoever denies the Son, is the antichrist, and this is the messenger and servant of Satan. I then explained to him the principal doctrines of Mahomed and Christ, and encouraged him to read the Word of God, not only to get knowledge, but particu- larly to the salvation of his soul. In the evening the priests went out to prepare the ceremonies of the annual festival of baptism. I also went out to witness them. The Tabots (holy ark) of the five Chm-ches of Ankobar were placed on a free place of the town, called Arada, where the Governor .of the town received them, prostrating himself with the people. The priests were well clothed, as well as the other people, because they consider the day of bap- tism as a day of great shelemat (splendour). The Churches distribute white clothes, and the other people 184 CEREMONY OF BAPTISM. borrow one from the other what they can get, to gUtter on this day. Then they went singing to the ri\'ulet Airara, at the foot of the Tshaka mountain. Having arrived there, the priests of each Church pitched a tent, singing the whole night. I returned, but intended to go at night to see the holy ceremony. January 12, 1840 — After midnight I went to the rivulet Airara. The ceremony of baptism had not com- menced ; but after the first cro^\ang of the cock it began. The priests of the Church St. Mary had to officiate this year. They had dammed the rivulet in the evening, so that in the morning it was considerably swollen. A priest stood in the midst of the water, and with a few words, blessed it. Then all the people, old and young, being quite naked, plunged themselves into the water. They tumbled first a good while in the water ; then they went out, and others followed them, being like men quite out of their senses. Parents took their little childi-en and cast them into the water, though these poor creatm'es cried loud from the coldness of the water. The priests having lights stood around the ri- ^n.llet, to witness this abominable ceremony. I tm-ned my eyes from this spectacle, and entered into a discourse with the father of Guebra, speaking about the baptism with the Holy Ghost, and the blood of Christ to the forgiveness of sin. Several priests joined in the dis- coiu-se. I then expressed my grief at seeing such cere- monies in a Christian country. Many people told me that I had said right. I then went home, while the ABYSSINIAN BOOKS. 185 priests remained till morning, when they returned to Ankobar, singing and shouting. January 13 — A priest came from Debra Libanos, begging in the name of his priesthood for the ^Ethiopic Gospels, as their Church was too poor to buy them. I complied ^-ith his request, and gave him also a copy of the Amharic New Testament. He went away, retiu-n- ing me many thanks. A Guraguean priest then came, begging for the names of the Amharic alphabet, so that he might teach it in his coimtry. Afterward, a Debtera brought to me a book, called Tarik. It contains a table of genealogy to King Solomon ; and then speaks about the Kings of ^Ethiopia, about the origin of the Gallas, and some facts respecting Mahomed Gragne, King of Adel. I begged him to make me a copy of this book, which he did. Aftein\'ard, Tseddoo brought to me a book, called Genset. He said that it was composed by Athanasius. Tseddoo said, that this great father of the Church had maintained, that the dead went to the holy suj)per after death. I said, that this was not agreeable to 1 Cor. xi., where St. Paul says, that we should show forth Christ's death till he come ; nor to ]\Iat. xxvi. 29., which referred to a hea- venly communion of Christ mth His disciples as there said, that he would have no further bodily commu- nion with them, but in the kingdom of heaven. Then I reminded him of Gal. i. 12., and Rev. xxii. 19., where it is inculcated on every Christian to take nothing from Scripture nor add thereto. 186 GALLA DEITIES. January 15^ 1840 — A Debtera brought to me a book, called Wudassie-Amlak, which is so much esteemed by the Abyssinians, that they say, if there were no priest with a dying man, and this book only were read, his assistance would not be reqxiired. Afterward I studied the Galla language. My Galla told me about two Deities which the Gallas worship. One is called Oglia ; the other Atete. They offer sacrifices to the Atete, a female Deity, in the month of September ; and to the Oglia, a male Deity, in the months of January and April. January 16 — I called upon Anko Jasus, the Alaca of the Church of St. Mary. He appears to be a monk, I gave him a copy of the ^thiopic Gospels, and a copy of the Amharic New Testament for his Church. Thus all the Churches of Ankobar have received books from me. January 17 — Debtera Worknech begged me to explain to him Matt. iii. I spoke about the baptism of John, and that of the Abyssinians, which I had lately witnessed. First, I said, that John taught his people before he baptized them, and that he showed them the necessity of repentance, if they wished to enter into the kingdom of God ; and, secondly, that John directed his hearers to the great day, the judgment of Christ ; that they should not rely upon their own righteousness and useless ceremonies, but really change their minds, and be baptized with the Holy Ghost. CHAPTER IV. AIR. KRAPF ACCOMPANIES THE KING ON AN EXPEDITION AGAINST THE GALLA TRIBES — THE KING'S ARMY — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST ON FASTING AND OTHER SUBJECTS — RELIGIOUS CEREMONIES OF THE GALLAS — VISIT TO A VILLAGE — A GALLA GRAVE — NOTICES OP VARI- OUS GALLA TRIBES, (THROUGHOUT THE CHAPTER)— CONVERSATION WITH PEOPLE FROM THE NORTH OF SHOA AND OTHER PLACES — INTERVIEW WITH TSHARA, SON OF THE QUEEN OF MULOFALADA — FAVOURABLE RECEPTION — MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS OF MAITSHA — SOURCES OF THE HAWASH — RETURN TO ANGOLLALA — HOT WELLS IN THE TERRITORY OF FINIFINI — ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA — RECEPTION OF THE KING REMARKS ON THE ADVANTAGES GAINED BY THE EXPEDITION. January 22, 1840 — This morning, about nine o'clock, the King departed from Angollala on an expedition against the Galla Tribes in the south of Shoa, and I was ordered to follow him in company with M. Rochet. About ten o'clock we passed the river Tshatsha, which has its course from south-east to north-west : it most probably arises in the mountains of Bulga and Mentshar, in the province of Fatagar. On a neighbouring hill we observed a large village, called Wonabadera, where Ayto Maretsh, the most influential Chieftain of the Gallas in the south of Shoa, has his residence. The Galla tribe, through the territoiy of which wc first 188 THE king's army. passed, is called Abedtslioo, which is veiy large, and di\ided into several districts. It is well peopled and cultivated ; but being destitute of trees, it does not pre- sent to the eye so beautiful an aspect as the other terri- tories of the Gallas, which we saw afterward. It has no high mountains, but only hills. It is rich in rivulets, meadows, and large valleys. The army of the King which accompanied him to- day amounted to about 5000 men. The King went before, having on each side a man holding a large red umbrella, preceded by several Gallas to show him the way. Behind the King there were about twenty wives riding, to prepare the King's kitchen, and at a little distance were the priests, alacas, and other men of rank. I was ordered to go \\-ith these. And finally there were the soldiers of the King, commanded by their respective officers. On the left side of the army, were the Tambom-s, riding on mules, making their monotonous noise; and, on the right side, were several wives, singing hymns in praise of the King. As my European di-ess and physiognomy excited the attention of the people, I was always surrounded by them, asking me about my country. I left this matter, and took the opportunity of speaking to them about the way conducting to their eternal welfare. As a Mis- sionary has people with him from all parts of Shoa, he can do much on such expeditions. Every word he speaks, they relate afterward to others, as I frequently CONVERSATION ON FASTING. 189 observed. A priest, who was with Ayto Maretsh, asked me a number of questions. I at first considered him a bigoted monk, and spoke ^xiih. him in decided terms ; but I observed afterward that he was much attached to me. He at fii'st tm-ned the conversation to fasting. I said, " Fasting may be useful to you, as well as disad- vantageous, according to the use you make of it. If by fasting you wish to be justified before God, you are not in want of the merit of Jesus Christ, and of the gi-ace and mercy God has ofiiered us in Him ; you make youi- own Sadour, and blaspheme Him who accepts a mourning sinner by His grace ; and you declare all that Christ has done for us to be superfluous, or at least, not sufficient for our redemption. But in doing so, you are quite in opposition to the doctrine of Christ and His Apostles, who declare that there is no salva- tion but in the name of Christ, who justifies the sinner by faith, and not by merit which a man thinks to have got by fasting or other work. In this respect, fasting is an immense disadvantage to you ; yea, you commit a great sin if you fast for righteous- ness' sake. You have no command in Scripture for your doing so ; but you are commanded to put aside all youi- o\\Ti works and to seize by a living faith what is given to you on the cross of your perfect Saviour Jesus Christ.'^ I then explained to him the passage (Matt. V. 3.) Blessed are the poor in spirit : for theirs is the kingdom of heaven. Furthermore, I said, "Fasting respects only the flesh, not the soul. The Mahome- 190 CONVERSATION ON FASTING dans and heathens can fast as severely as you, without partaking of Christ. It is another thing, if we fast in order to be able to meditate about the condition of our hearts, to mourn over our sins, and to pray. In this respect, fasting may become useful to us ; but in doing so we know and declare it before God and men, that we do not seek righteousness thereby, but only a pre- paration for a praying intercourse with our God. Having this in view, the Apostles sometimes fasted ; but they left it to Christian liberty as to how often and in in what cases it should be done, without giving strict orders about it." Afterward he spoke about the prohibition of coffee drinking. The priests of Shoa do not allow it, in oppo- sition to the Mahomedans, who like coffee so much. First, I proved to him, that God makes coffee grow as Avell as other things for the use of men ; and therefore he who forbids it, is in opposition to the Creator of all things. Secondly, I showed him that all that God has created, is clean, good, and not to be refused, if it be received with thanksgiving, as St. Paul says, (1 Tim. iv. 3, 4.) ; and that it was another thing if some things were not suitable to our bodies and health. In this respect, we were obliged to abstain from eating or drink- ing it, as it is our duty to preserve our life, which we should otherwise destroy, as many Abyssinians do by severe fasting. Thirdly, I explained to him the differ- ence by which we are distinguished from the Mahome- dans, namely, not by fasting, or coffee di-inking, or AND OTHER SUBJECTS. 191 di'ess, or bands of silk ; but by oiu* doctrines and a holy Christian life. Fourthly, that if the Abyssinians will separate themselves from Mahomedans by prohibiting coffee, they are obliged to abstain from all other meat which the Mahomedans make use of. Fifthly, I re- proached their priests, saying, " I know why you are so strict in forbidding coffee ; you do it for your interest, taking a cloth, or some pieces of salt, before you ab- solve a dead man whom you know to have been a coffee drinker. I would not have opposed you so much, if I had observed that there was no custom in general to di'ink coffee ; but knowing the reasons why you forbid it, I thought it my duty to speak openly on this point. But supposing there were no custom, your country could produce plenty of coffee, and it would be for yom- tempo- ral welfare to plant and sell it to foreign countries.^^ I then spoke about the real conversion of sinners, about the happiness of a true believer in Christ, and the duty of the Shoa Christians to convert the J\Iahomcdans and Gallas, saying, that if they loved Christ, they would keep His commandment, by which all true believers are obligated to instruct all the nations of the earth. But in order to be able to do so, they must first themselves retm-n to the pure doctrines of the Gospel, else the Gallas would not hear them. " What," I said, " shall the Gallas gain by your doctrines about fasting, prohibition of coffee and smoking, by your traditions of circumcision, and by yom' strict separation from other nations ? In- stead of converting them, you give them occasion to 192 GALLA SACRIFICES. blaspheme the holy name of Christ, thinking that His yoke is a very heavy one, in opposition to what He him- self says (Matt. xi. 28.) Come unto me, all ye that la- hour and are heavy laden, and I will give you rest, 8(c." In my heart I fervently prayed that the Lord would open a door to the Galla nation, and hasten the time of their salvation. About one o'clock we passed a river, called Belat, which has its coiu'se in the same direction as the Tshatsha, and perhaps the same source, on the Bulga mountains. There is a large village of the same name near it, situated on a rocky hill. Oiu* route was plain and agreeable. "VVe observed several large ahorn-trees, under which the Gallas perform their religious ceremo- nies. These trees therefore are considered holy, and nobody can touch them without losing his life. Here they offer sacrifices to their two principal Deities, Oglia and Atete. To the Oglia, which is a male Deity, they offer cows, sheep, &c., in the months of January and April ; and to the other, which is a female Deity, they offer sacrifices in the month of September, at which time their priests, called Kallitshotsh, foretell the inci- dents of the coming year. They pray that these beings, which they think to be invisible, may grant to the peo- ple a good harvest and other temporal blessings. About two o'clock in the afternoon we encamped on a large plain, called Magel, which is intersected by a rivulet of the same name. The King gave orders to Serta "Wold to furnish me with a tent. VISIT TO A GALLA VILLAGE. 193 January 23,1840 — Yeiy early this morning I went out to a neighbouring village of Gallas, accompanied by M. Rochet and my Galla boy. The Gallas on seeing us, ran all together. I saluted them in their own language. I then said to them, through my Galla, that I had heard in my country that the Gallas were like what the fore- fathers of my country had been formerly, not knowing the right way to their temporal and eternal welfare ; that the Wake (God) had shown us the right way in a book which we call the Gospel ; and that His will was, that all men should hear, know, and accept this book, in order to become happy with Him after this life. As to myself, I intended to study well their language, and then to come and teach their boys and all who wished to know the right way. Several people said, " Well, come, and we will give you sheep and what yovi need." I replied, " I am not in want of property ; but I wish to make you happy by the knowledge of the Word of God." I Hke much the Galla people, and 1 am con- vinced that if a ]\Iissionaiy once commenced his labours among them, he would be blessed with better success than among the Abyssinian people. The King set out about eight o'clock with his troops, which had been considerably increased by soldiers coming from Bulga and Alentshar. We marched south- west-west in the territorj^ of the Abedtshoo Gallas. About eleven o'clock, we passed the river Sana Robi, which separates the tribe Abedtshoo from the tribe Gelan ; and then marched north-west, passing, about one K 194j governor of machfood. o'clock in the afternooiij the river Sanga Boka. About two o'clock, we encamped on a place, called Gordoma, in the tribe Woberi. As the tribes Woberi and Gelan were several years at war with each other, the country around was a desert, and we saw nothing but the ruins of former villages. ^Tien we had encamped, the King asked me how many soldiers I thought he had gathered at present ? I said, that I thought there were about six or seven thousand. He laughed, and said, " That is nothing : look after several days, and then tell me the number." We had to the north the province of Slioa Meda, where there are Christians. In the evening, the Governor of Machfood came to see me in my tent. As they came only to see my Euro- pean dress, and to ask about trilling things, I turned the discourse to the Word of God, to proclaim which I was sent by the Christians of my country. They then kept silence, in order to hear what 1 had to say about the propagation of the Gospel in our times, and of the Holy Scriptures in a hundred and seventy different lan- guages, and about the arts of our country. I like to converse with different people on this expedition, and to make known my object in all the districts of Shoa, as I obtain thereby a great advantage ; namely, that I am known if I should afterward visit their villages. I regretted that I had not with me a large quantity of Amharic books, as I had many opportunities of dis- tributing them. January 24, 1840 — As the King set out very late this MOUNTAINS OF GARRA GORPIIOA. 195 morning, I had a long conversation with people who smTOunded my tent, in number about two hundred. My heart was warm at seeing them. Several were about to speak about fasting ; but I left that, and enlarged on the duty of a Christian to acquaint himself well with the "Word of God, contained in the Old and New Testa- ments, and to follow it with all his heart during his life. I then proved to them from the Ten Command- ments the sinfulness of theii- hearts, and the necessity of a h\-ing faith in Jesus Christ. The people were much pleased with what I said, saying, that they had never heard such good tidings from their priests. If I should accompany the King on another expedition, I shall prepare before a number of short sermons, explaining to tlie people the essential truths of Scrip- ture in a clear and decided manner. These expeditions, which the King makes three times in the year, namely, January, June, and September, afford a suitable occa- sion for a ^Missionary to preach the Gospel, which opportunity he does not have at other times. We marched through the territory Woberi south- west-west. On the south-east we left the mountains of Garra Gorphoa, which extend from east to north-west, in which direction we saw all the rivulets running, which we were continually passing. As since yesterday the troops from northern and western Shoa arrived, the King sent his boy Bern, to request me to go on a hill from whence I could see the troops passing, and to tell the King how many I thought there were. 1 K 2 196 A GALLA GRAVE. rested about an hour, seeing the people arriving from all directions ; finally, I went my way, thinking there were about iifteen thousand men. Notwithstanding this, others will arrive in a few days from Shoa, and the country of the Gallas. The most beautiful horses and mules were to be seen. How powerful a King Sahela Selassieh might become, if his troops were dis- ciplined, and his country civilized ! About one o'clock, we were covered by an immense swarm of locusts, so that we could see neither the sun nor the mountains around. I have seen them in Tigre, but not in such a mass. Afterward we had rain. The second rainy season, which is called Tshernat, is at hand, and is ex- pected regularly between January and February. The first rainy season, called Hat Kidan, begins in the month of June, and ends in September. I saw this afternoon, for the first time, a Galla grave in a village called Mutshella. The grave was sm*- rounded by a wall about three feet in height, on which the aloe-plant was growing up very beautifully. The grave was also covered with stones of about two feet in height. I have never seen in Abyssinia a grave adorned so nicely. On asking my Galla boy, why they adorned their graves so beautifully, I received an answer which destroyed my pleasure. He told me, that the Gallas are of opinion, that as soon as the above mentioned plant grows on the grave of a person, he begins to get righteousness before the Wake, and goes to him. How- ever, the Gallas have an idea of retribution, as they PLAIN OF SULULTA. 197 believe that a good man goes to the Wake, and a bad one to the fire of the Setanat, or Geni. As I asked Gallas, who have no connexion with the people of Shoa, I suppose that this is an idea of theii- own. January 25, 1840 — We commenced our march this morning about nine o'clock, proceeding south-south- west, through the territory of the tribe Jumbitshoo, which was quite destitute of villages. We passed several rivTilets. The King rested several times to catch fishes. About two o'clock, we encamped in a plain called Sululta, having been about eight hours in its circuit. The Gallas on the neighbouring mountains are called Sululta Gallas. Their neighbours in the south-east are called Finfini Gallas, from the high mountains of the same denomination. The plain of Sululta is ex- ceedingly rich in grass and water ; but there is no wood. I observed here, as in other places, that the Gallas leave the plains to their horses, sheep, cows, &c., which they love like their children ; while they themselves seek their maintenance by cultivating the mountains. In doing so they are able to bring up a better cavalry than perhaps any other nation. As the Gallas of Sululta did not pay their tribute in horses and cows, the King gave orders for all their villages to be destroyed by fire. I did not care much to know the names of the Galla villages, as they are destroyed almost on every expedition. The soldiers take all they can get in the houses, and then burn them. As the harvest was over, the King could not, as he gene- 198 QUEEN OF MULOFALADA. rally does, burn the fruits ; but much wheat was de- stroyed with the houses. The Gallas are foohshj I have no doubt, because they could prevent the King from burning their houses, as the tribute which he requires from them is very little, January 26,1840— This morning, about eight o'clock, we left Sululta. On our departure the King bm-nt all the meadows on which we had encamped. About nine o'clock we entered into the territory of Mulofalada, governed by the queen Tshamieh, whom I have men- tioned before. She has her residence at Wollenso, a large village, which is considered the capital place of her tribe. Having passed through several territories of the Gallas quite destitute of trees, and but little cultivated, it was very refreshing to my eyes to see large forests and the ground cultivated. The King of Shoa married the daughter of the queen ; and her son, whose name is Tshara, is much attached to the King, and rendered him great services on the expedition. Considering that this tribe is in the midst of Gallas dwelling between the Hawash in the south, and Shoa in the north and east — that it is near the Nile, and Godtsham on the west— that it is very fertile, and well cultivated— and that it is in total dependance upon the King of Shoa, I could not but think that it was a fit place to establish a Galla Mission among this tribe. I therefore determined to make my personal acquaint- ance with the son of the Queen, and to acquaint him with my object. On our way, the King received BEHAVIOUR OF THE KING. 199 several Chieftains, who delivered up their tributes. Generally speaking, what the Gallas call dependancy upon Shoa is very little with the southern Gallas, as they are afraid of the King only so long as he is in their territory. The tribe of Mulofalada, however, seems to me to be an exception. I must make some remarks respecting the behaviour of the King when he is marching. He is as active in the field as at home. Sitting on his mule, he speaks with his officers and other persons, and receives the Governors arriving from Shoa or the Galla tribes, who, on seeing the King, fall down on their faces, as well as their troops. He asks in a friendly way. How do you do ? after which the chieftain comes near, walks by the side of the King's mule, and speaks with him apart for about half an hour. The King having rode on his mule for a considerable time, descends and walks on foot like his people. He speaks the Galla language pretty well. When he intends to encamp, he goes apart on a hill with a select number of troops to reconnoitre, till his tents are put up. Indeed, he is a respectable prince, and has intelligence and experience. In the afternoon, we passed several rivulets in the territoiy of Mulofalada. One of them is called Koieta, and another Dekame : both seem to have their course to the Nile. All the rivulets which we passed, have water the whole year, I was informed. At two o'clock, we arrived in the ten-itory of the tribe Ada- berga, which is partially dependent on Mulofalada. 200 CONVERSATION WITH PEOPLE. Adaberga has its name from the high mountains situated in this tribe^ as many other tribes are called by the name of their mountains. I several times ob- served, that the extension of a tribe is limited by a chain of mountains ; as you enter into another tribe as soon as you ascend another chain of mountains. The Adaberga mountains have their direction from south-south-east to north -east. The territory of this tribe is very rich in forests, water, and meadows. As they refused to pay the tribute, their houses were burnt. About three o'clock we encamped in a valley, called Belatsha, from the rivulet" of the same name. January 27, 1840 — This morning I had a long con- versation with people from the North of Shoa, from Geshe, Anzokia, and Efrata. I read to them several Psalms with short explanations. They were much pleased to hear the Word of God in Amharic. I am firmly convinced that the Abyssinian people would not refuse a reformation, if there were some enlightened teachers among themselves, brought up with a sovmd know- ledge of the Bible, and anointed by the Holy Spirit. But I have little hope in this respect, though they like to hear a discourse about the Word of God. In all my conversations I endeavour to show them the necessity of relying only on the Bible, it being quite suffi- cient to the knowledge of our salvation. I show them always that there are two seducing ways ; either that we add something to the Scriptures, or that we take away from them ; explaining the danger of these ways. CLIMATE OF METTA. 201 with the example of Adam and Eve and other instances, as well as from the history of the Chm-cli. We commenced our march about nine o'clock this morning. Having passed through a large forest, north-west, we descended into a large plain, called Ada- berga Tshamer, in which the Gallas themselves had bm-nt all the grass to prevent the King from encamp- ing there. A Galla was caught in the forest : three others were killed this day by the people of Tshara. All the villages around were destroyed by fire. My boy brought to me a lance of iron, which the Gallas of this country used to wear. About three o'clock, we en- camped near a river called Robi, having its course to the Nile. We were in the territory of the Metta Gallas. Metta is divided into several districts. From the river Robi, the Gallas around are called jNIetta Robi Gallas. They did not deliver up their tribute, and had taken flight to their moimtains. The territory of ]\Ietta is exceedingly beautiful, like Mulofalada and Adabcrga. Generally speaking, the farther we go to the south, the country becomes more beautiful. It is an immense loss that this fine country is in the hands of these people. They have every thing in abundance, and their climate is like that of Italy. It is so healthy that sickness is unknown. January 28 — This morning I had a conversation with the Gallas. As on this expedition I wished par- ticularly to converse with the people, I took my Galla translation of the Gospel of St. John, in order to see K 5 202 CONVERSATION ON whether tliey were able to understand it or not ; and I had the pleasure to observe that they understood it pretty well. I added some explanations to what I read, and they expressed to me their great satisfaction. I am convinced that the Gallas are not against instruction ; but they hate the Amharic priests, who will instruct them in an unknown language, and in things which they consider a heavy yoke. We always observed that the Gallas made a great distinction between me and M. Rochet and the Amharic people. The King encamped about one o^clock in a plain called Darasoo, on the river Gadisa; afterward he went out with a select number of soldiers in a north - westei'ly direction, to attack the tribe Wogidi INIetta. I accompanied him, though he begged me several times to remain in the camp. We marched about two hours, till we arrived at a high mountain, on which, when the air is clear, Godtsham and the Nile can be seen. We saw the mountains of Mughir to the north, on the foot of which is the tribe Fajah, where the King went on his last expedition, in the month of September. Between the mountains of the \Yogidi Gallas and those of the ]Metta Robi Gallas is a river, called Ada, flomng to the Hawash. In the west of Wogidi Metta is the tribe Betsho Fugik, and in the west of Betsho Fugik is the tribe Tsharso Daga on the Nile. As the Gallas had taken flight, the King returned to his camp, hav- ing first burnt their \illages. January 29, 1840 — This morning, about nine o'clock, THE POWER OF THE PRIESTS. 203 we left oiu' camp, to retui'u to tlie tribe ^Metta Robi, where we had been two days before. I asked several Gallas who were with me in my tent, what they knew about their progenitor. They said, that, according to an old tradition, their progenitor was called "VVolab ; that he was formed from mud by the Wake (god), and re- ceived afterward a living soul ; and that he had his first residence on the Hawash. I could not learn more from them. On oiu- rctiu-n, the Gallas, the houses of whom were bm-nt yesterday, brought their tribute in honey, horses, and cows. We encamped about one o'clock. I had a long con- versation -^ith people from jNlachfood, Geshe, Morad, Bulga, and ]\Ientshar. I observed that the people of Bulga and Mentshar are the most ignorant. January 30 — As the King rested in his tent till ten o'clock, I had much time to speak ^\dth the people. I first spoke about the power of the priests. I proved to them that a priest is a sinner before God, like other men ; and that a good priest does not deny his sinful- ness and his want of a Saviour, as we see in the exam- ple of St. Paul, who declared himself to be the greatest sinner — that therefore a priest has no power of his own over other men — that as he receives the salvation of his soul only by true repentance and living faith in Christ, it is his duty to show to his people the way in which he has been saved, in conformity with the exam- ple of John the Baptist, and with God's commandment. " Therefore," I remarked, " take care that you do not 204 CONVERSATION presume on authority which the Lord has not given you —that you preach His word and not youi- own — seek for His honour and glory, and not yom- own interest. You have certainly great honour and power by teaching His word ; but if you take from or add to that word, as now you do, the Lord will call you thieves and rob- bers destrojang his sheep. The iVpostles had the Holy Spirit, who conducted them into all truth, and preserved them from teaching other things which Christ had not commanded. In His power they bound the sinner who did not repent, as well as absolved him who truly re- pented of his sins : but you have the spirit of the world, and seek only for worldly interests, and take the power and the word of Christ only as the means of obtaining your temporal objects. You keep the flock in ignorance, teaching them doctrines quite contrary to the Scrip- tures ; and you prevent them by your pretended autho- rity from receiving the happy and pure knowledge of the Bible. But I tell you that the liord wall require from you, on the Day of Judgment, all the souls which are lost on youi- account. The souls are not yours, but Christ's ; and if you do not reveal to them His will, you are like Judas, who looked more for money than for his master's interest." We then spoke about slavery. As slavery is very frequent in this country, I take every opportvmity to prove its inconsistency with Christian principles, namely. Thou shalt love thy neighbour as thyself. And as ye would that men should do to you, do ye also to them ON SLAVERY. 205 likewise, " A^Tiy do you/' I said, " sell yoiu- neighbour like a mule, or horse, or other property ? Would you like a man to deal so with you ? Furthermore, you know from Scriptm-e, that all men are brothers, members of one family, coming of one blood, Adam, and redeemed by one blood, Jesus Christ. It is also said, Thou shalt not covet thy neighbour's house, thou shalt not covet thy neighbours zvife, nor his man servant, nor his maid servant, nor his ox, nor his ass, nor any thing that is thy neighbour's. How earnestly the Almighty forbids us in this commandment to take the property of our neighbour. A\Tiy do you steal men, or at least buy and sell stolen men ? You say that you do not steal men. Well, but you buy and give occasion for others to steal them. What is the reason of so many wars among the Gallas ? Is it not to make and sell slaves ? You, the Christians of Shoa, are responsible for this. You do not eat with Gallas and Mahomedans ; but you do their sinful works. Separate yourselves from their sins, and prove that you are disciples of Him who has given himself for their redemption. You forbid coffee and tobacco, which the Word of God does not ; but you favour a trade with men to your eternal condemnation." Our conversation then turned to the difference be- tween Christians and Mahomedans. I said, " The dif- ference does not consist in strings of silk, or in not eating with ^lahomedans ; but in doctrines, and in a holy Christian life. Like the ]\Iahomedans, you seek your righteousness before God by fasting and other 206 CONVERSATION CONCERNING works ; like them you are slave-traders ; and yovi love fornication. Wlierein^ therefore, do you differ ? Is it because you have a greater number of Saints than the Mahomedans ? Or is it that you have better stories and fables than are found among the Mahomedans ? You have, it is true, some theoretical knowledge of Christ j but practically, you are like the Mahomedans, who not feeling the sinfulness of their hearts, nor know- ing the sickness of their souls, are offended at the Sa- viour's incarnation. And you are offended at our say- ing to you, that fasting and other works are useless to a true believer, who needs nothing else but a contrite heart and a living faith. You are zealous against Ma- homedans, denying that Christ is the Sou of God, and do not give Him the honour which belongs to Him as a Saviour and Mediator, but divide Him between His work and youi' own and that of your Saints.'' Finally, we spoke about the various arts of Europe. I said, in conformity with 1 Tim. iv. 8, Godliness is profitable unto all tilings, having promise of the life that noiv is, and of that ivhich is to come — that the pure knowledge of the Gospel enlightens the under- standing of man, and who, if he does the wdll of God, is blessed in all that he undertakes — that the reception of the Gospel is the real cause of the flom-ishing state of the arts in our country — and that the love which oui' Christians prove in propagating God's Word is the cause of the power which England possesses in all parts of the world. THE ANOINTING OF CHRIST. 207 We set out about ten o'clock this morning. Alaca Melat asked nie on the way many questions of a spe- culative natui-e. Among other things, he asked me about the anointing of Christ by the Holy Ghost. I said, this we can prove clearly from Matt, iii., where we read, that when Jesus was baptized, he went up straight- way out oftheivater: and, lo, the heavens were opened unto him, and the Spirit of God descending like a dove, and lighting upon Mm, from which we also learn at what time Christ received the Holy Ghost. " "SATiy ask,'' I said, " about things which are not wi-itten, and do not see those which are so clearly revealed in the Scriptm-es ? Why take upon yourselves to oppose the testimony of St. John, who had seen and heard at what time Christ was anointed with the Holy Ghost ? " I once heard fi'om a learned priest why they persist so strictly in their opinion of Christ's being anointed in the womb ; but I have forgotten to notice it in my daily remarks. It is necessary to study their iEthiopic books in order to find out their o])inions, of which they have seldom a clear knowledge. He then asked about Cyril and Nestorius. I said, that the doctrines of these two gi'cat men of the Church requii-ed to be examined by the light of the Scripture — that Nestorius seems to have separated the humanity of Christ from his Deity, and Cyril to have confounded both together; while the Scripture faith relics on a real union of both without separation, as well as without mLxture — that as to the manner of 208 INTERVIEW their union, we are not informed in Scripture ; we know only that the Word zvas made Jlesli, mid dwelt among us, manifesting the actions of real humanity as well as of Deity. It would be better, I said, if they left their disputes about the anointing and the two natures of Christ, and examined themselves in the light of God, to know whether they were anointed with the Holy Ghost and united to Christ or not. " I am much displeased,^' I added, " with your learned men, seeing that they are lost in vain speculations, and seduced from the practical knowledge of Christ. Humble yourselves under the Word of God, that He may exalt you, by giving you the spirit of true wisdom, and leading you to the salvation of yourselves as well as of your flocks." Finally, he asked, whether mules were created in the beginning, as it was written in a book called Adam, that Adam, on leaving the garden, had ten mules with him. I said, that I had never i-ead this story in the Bible ; but had read in Gen. xxxvi. 24., that at the time of Anah, mules were found in the wilderness ; and therefore that the story in the book of xldam was false, as were many others of their books, the authors of whom seek to be wiser than the messengers of God, who have wi'itten their histories in the light of the Holy Ghost. This afternoon we were again covered with an immense swarm of locusts. January 31, 184!0 — This morning I had the pleasure to meet with Tshara, son of Tshamieh, Queen of Mulo- WITH TSIIARA. 209 falada. He came to see me in my tent. I explained to him the reasons why I had come to Shoa and the country of the Gallas, saying, that in om- countries we had become very happy since our fathers had, more than a thousand years ago, received the knowledge of the books which I had in my hands —a copy of the Amharic New Testament and the Psalms — and that as we loved all men on earth as our brothers, we wished to make them also happy by the knowledge of this book. Besides, God had commanded us to instruct all people in this book, as without the knowledge of God and their duties toward Him, they would be lost for ever ; and therefore I had come from a distant country, surmount- ing many difficulties, fatigues, and dangers, in order to show them the way to their eternal welfare. Tshara took my books, kissed them, and gave them to his ser- vants, who also kissed them. He then said, " We will know about the things contained in this book." I replied, that I would have given it to him, if he had been able to read it ; but if he and his mother would allow me, I would come and instruct his people in their own language, and tell them all that is ^Titten in the book. I added, that I had nothing to request from him but his permission to come, and for the protection of my person and furtherance of my object in this coun- ti-y. He promised to accomplish all that I had re- quested from him ; but, he added, " If the King, my uncle, will allow it." This young man's countenance and manners were pleasing. We felt much attached 210 MAJESTIC MOUNTAINS to each otlier. He said silently to my servant, " This is a man of the Wake (God.)" Finally, I asked him for several boys to take with me to Ankobar, in order to instruct them there, promising that I would return with them to IMulofalada. He answered, " I shall come to Ankobar after several months, and then we will speak about this matter, and you will speak with the King/^ I shall not fail to acquaint the King of it, as soon as possible. I have spoken much with Alaca Serat about the Galla people, and given him some proofs of my translation, and he seems not to be against the instruction of that nation j but I am afraid that others will prevent the King from giving his permission to my undertaking, as they know that the Christian faith is not brought by us to the Gallas in the Abyssinian manner. However, I shall explain to the King, first, that it is the commandment of Christ to teach all peo- ple the Christian Religion ; secondly, the responsibility of the Christians of Shoa, if they do not care them- selves for the eternal welfare of the Gallas ; thu-dly, the great advantage arising to the King himself from the christianization of the Gallas, who would then be good subjects to him, considering him a King united to them by the bond of the same faith ; and, fourthly, I shall beg him for his permission in the furtherance of my object, and for the protection of my person. At the same time, I shall speak about my plan respecting a Mission among the tribe IMulofalada. We commenced our march this morning about nine IX THE TERRITORY OF MAITSHA. 211 o'clock. The King had ordered a soldier to be killed^ who had killed his fellow-man the day before. They often kill their own people, in order to be able to say that they have killed a Galla ; in which case they re- ceive fi'om the King the value of twenty or sixty pieces of salt, or a shield, horse, mule, or something else. On our way a singer of the King asked me about various disputed matters among the learned of Shoa. The King on every expedition takes with him twelve singers, who begin theii- songs at midnight, and continue vdih- out ceasing till break of day. At Ankobar there are one hundi'ed and fifty-six singers. These people sing psalms and hymns, generally to the praise of IMary ; but in such a horrible manner that M. Rochet, who had his tent near the King's, was unable to sleep. February 1, 1840 — AVe set out from our camp about seven o'clock this morning ; but about ten o'clock the King gave orders to encamp. Having aiTanged this, the King went out to hunt buffalos and elephants, which are seldom to be met with in the forests of Metta. M. Rochet and myself accompanied the King. About eleven o'clock we rested a little on a mountain, where we had a most beautiful prospect in all directions. In the south-west, wc saw the majestic mountains in the territoiy of Maitsha, with their immense forests; and on the south-west we had before us the high mountain Entoto, where several of the Kings of Abyssinia had resided, till Gragne, the King of Adel, destroyed the city built there, the ruins of which, I was informed. 212 MOUNTAIN OF SEKUALA. still existed on the mountain. Nebla Dengliel is said to have been the last King who resided there. He took flight to the neighbouring mountain Ferrer, and then to the mountain Bokan, till he was compelled to retire to Tigre ; when the Gallas profiting by this opportunity- entered this part of Shoa after the death of Gragne. Thus Gurague was separated from Shoa. They took the most beautiful provinces. The priests of the King showed me in the territory of Mulofalada several hills, where, they said, chm-ches had formerly been. The history of these churches, I understood, are written in a book, called Tarik, which Sentshar said he possessed, and promised to let me see it after his return to Ankobar. We also saw in the south-east the high mountain Se- kuala, where, I was informed, is the grave of a cele- brated saint, called Guebra Manfus Redus, to which the people of Shoa make annual pilgrimages. This saint is said to have destroyed by his prayers 500 genii. There is water on the top of the mountain. To the south we observed the immense plain of the H awash, in which is a high single mountain, called Wata Dalat- sha. Beyond the plain are the mountains of Soddo Gurague. About one o'clock the people made a loud cry, the King having killed a great buffalo on his horse with a single lance. Therefore the singing wives praised the King. Killing a buffalo is an act of great bravery, and a man who has killed one, is considered as if he had killed five Gallas : therefore he has the privilege to SOURCES OF THE HAW ASH. 213 adorn his hair with a branch from the juniper tree. About three o'clock we returned to our camp, which was on the riAiilet Tshamtsham. February 2, 1840— This morning, accompanied by M. Rochet, I went to the tent of the King, to make in- quiry about the sources of the Hawash. The King told us that there was a large marsh between the Soddo, Betsho Woreb, and INlaitsha tribes, from which, as far as he knew, the Hawash took its rise. As the King intends to march against the Soddo and Maitsha tribes, we shall be enabled to ascertain the correctness of this information. About ten o'clock we passed a river, the name of which I could not learn : it forms the frontier between the jNIetta and Maitsha Gallas ; and over which the Gallas have thro^^ni a small bridge, nicely con- structed. The country between Metta and ]Maitsha is neither inhabited nor cultivated in the circuit of more than twelve hom-s, though it is the finest country of the world, being rich in water, wood, and a good soil ; these tribes being at war with each other. Thus the enmity of man desolates a country which God has richly blessed. At present it is the dwelling-place of elephants, buffalos, and other beasts. The country of Maitsha is chvided into twelve tribes, who are in con- tinual hostilities with each other. The names of them are : 1. Kuttai, into which we entered to-day; 2. Nono; 3. Sankalla; 4. WoUiso ; 5. Guma; 6. Gera ; 7. Gooderoo. About the rest I have no information. On the south of Kuttai, in the i)laiu of the Hawash, is the 214 RETURN TO ANGOLLALA. tribe Betsho Woreb, whicb is to be distinguished from Betsho Fugik, near the Nile. About ten o'clock the tents were made up, when the King made an excursion to a mountain, on which we could overlook the whole plain of the Hawash to its end, where probably is the marsh which the King men- tioned to-day. Its distance from the Nile may be a day's journey. If these countries were civilized, 1 think the Hawash would become of gi'eat importance to com- merce, as it has an extent of nearly 200 hom's from its soui'ce to Aussa in the country of Adel, where it forms a sea, and is navigable, at least in the rainy season, from its som'ce to Aussa. I have never heard that there were cataracts in this river. In the west of the Hawash is the Nile, which is navigable for a long distance. The King, having bui'nt all the ^illages around, returned to his camp at Logagontsha, on a ri^^Ilet of the same name. February 3, 18 40 — We left our camp about eight o'clock this morning to retm'u to Angollala. We did not wish to retm-n so soon, as we were desirous of seeing the interior of Maitsha, Soddo, and Gurague. On our retm'n, we took a south-east direction. About ten o'clock, we passed the river between Metta and Maitsha, and on which we had encamped last night. I learned that it is called Logagontsha. About twelve o'clock, we entered into the territory of Metta Tshamer, or Metta Wotsheta, from the mountain Entoto, which the Gallas call Wotsheta. About two o'clock, we encamped at the HOT "WELLS OF FINFINI. - 215 foot of Entoto, in a plain called Tshaffe holata, where the King ordered a great number of tillages to be bui-nt. At night we observed the fire by which the people of Ababerga destroyed, on a neighbouring moun- tain, all the villages which had broiight theii- tributes to the King. Thus they act against all Gallas mak- ing fi'iendship with the King of Shoa. Fehruar^j 4 — The question of a man, whether the Gallas are our brothers or not, gave occasion for a con- A'ersation till we set out about nine o^clock. We marched south-east as yesterday. About ten o'clock the people of Tshamich left us to return to their coun- trv. Seeing Tshara returning, I prayed fervently in my heart, that the Lord would not let him forget what I had said to him about my object. About twelve o'clock, we touched on our route the territory of Adda ; and about three o'clock we encamped at Legemie, in the ten-itory of Finfini, in the neighbourhood of the mountain Sekuala, on the west of which is another high mountain, called Fourri. In the east of our camp we had the mountain Ferrer. The Sekuala, En- toto, and Wata Dalatsha, form a nice western triangle of mountains ; while the Fourri, Sckiiala, and Ferrer, form an eastern triangle in the plain of the H awash. From our camp we could see very well the mountains of Soddo and Gurague, as well as the mountains of the Liban, Lumic, and Arroosi tribes in the east of Gu- rague. February 5 — About ten o'clock, we saw on our 216 SLAVE MARKETS. route^ which was north-east, the hot wells in the terri- tory of Finfinij at the foot of a chain of mountains of the same name. I saw three wells which were very sulphurous, and so hot that I could not put my fingers in it for a moment. There are several villages in the neighbourhood. The ground is very sterile, and does not present to the eye the same beautiful aspect as the territories of Mulofalada, Adaberga, Metta, and Mait- sha. However, it is well inhabited and cultivated, and the people have been attached to the King for many years. About eleven o'clock, we entered into the territory of the tribe Germama, On the way the King received the tribute from the Galla of Ferrer, consist- ing of about twenty beautiful horses and forty cows. At the foot of Ferrer is a village called Roggie, where there is a large market, at which the people of Gurague and the neighbouring Gallas sell their slaves, horses, cows, and other productions, coming from the interior of Africa. This market is on the route to Gurague, which is quite safe as far as the mountain of Sekuala and the plain of the Hawash. On arriving at this plain, the traveller is in danger of being pil- laged by the Soddo Gallas coming from the west. From Sekuala it is a day's journey to Aimellele, the first vil- lage of Gurague, situated on a mountain, which I have seen to-day. The Governor of the Ferrer Gallas is much attached to the King. His name is Shambo. His duty is to conduct the merchants to Gurague. I en- deavoured to make my acquaintance with him ; but as CONVERSATION WITH TECLA MICHAEL. 217 he returned directly to liis countryj I had only a few moments to speak with him. There are several other slave markets in the neighbourhood of the Hawash, which give much occasion for the perpetual wars in which the Galla tribes are engaged with each other, in order to make slaves and to sell them at their mar- kets, where they are bought for three or live dollars. February Q, 1840 — This morning I gave my Amharic New Testament to Tecla IMichael, a secretaiy of the King. He read Matt. iii. in the presence of a ^laho- medan Hadji, Ab Errachman, the Interpreter of ]\I. Rochet. On reading verse 4, And his meat teas locusts and wild honey, he asked whether John had indeed eaten locusts. I said, " Yes, locusts such as we saw several days ago." He replied, "We interpret the word anbata, (locusts) to mean a plant which is found after the rainy season.'^ I said, " ^^liy do you change the Word of God to favour your fixed interpretations ? " The Mahomedan was very glad at hearing my opposi- tion. I then said, "I know that you arc afraid of making John a Mahomedan ; but you are wrong. You sin in two respects ; fii-st, you change God's Word on account of your interpretations, and thus give oc- casion for ]\lahomedans to say, that Christians change and falsify the Scriptures ; and, secondly, you declare God's creation to be unclean, which is not according to 1 Tim. iv. 8. We have better and stronger ])roofs against Mahomedans, and need not change the word locusts. What if John did eat locusts like IMahomc- 318 ON CIRCUMCISION dans ? He lias given witness to Christ, whose messen- ger he proved himself; which you cannot say about Mahomed." He could not object to anything that I said. On our way to-day, I spoke much with Alaca Serat, Alaca Mclat, and Tecla jMichael about slavery, remark- ing, that the abolition of it had a great influence on the fall of the Mahomedan religion. Then Alaca Melat asked me whether circumcision was customary in my country. I said that Christ had instituted bap- tism instead of circumcision ; and that if circumcision were necessary, Christ would have commanded it. He then asked, whether our children just born went to the Lord^s table. I said, " No, because St. Paul says, 1 Cor. xi. 28, Lei a man examine himself, and so let him eat of that bread, and drink of that cup ; but how can childi'cn just born examine themselves ?" He then replied, " You are right in this respect." He also asked, whether the tree in paradise had been a sycamore. I said, " I do not know; nor how long Adam was in the garden. I only know that he was there ; that he transgressed God's commandment, by desir- ing more knowledge than God had allowed him ; and that he was driven out of the garden." He next asked about the Apocryphal books. I said, that as they were not written in the Hebrew language, and several things occm'ring in them inconsistent with other canonical books, we did not consider them as being of equal authority with the other books. Afterward, Alaca AND OTHER SUBJECTS. 219. Serat and Alaca ]Melat asked me, whether Christians, or Mahomedans, or Pagans, were prevailing in number. I said, that we reckoned there were about six hundred millions of Heathens, two hundred and ten millions of Christians, one hundred and seventy millions of Maho- medans, and twenty millions of Jews. They were astonished at the number of heathens ; and therefore I took the opportunity of speaking about Missionary and Bible Societies in my country. About nine o'clock, we entered into the territory of the Abedtshoo ; first into the district Parra Berck, and then into the district Wodermertoo. February 7, 1840 — We left our camp about seven o'clock this morning. We passed several rivulets flow- ing north-west. A priest, with whom I had conversed some days ago, said to me this morning, that he was condnced that all their books were useless without the Bible. I replied, " That is not my meaning, but that you should examine them to see whether they accord with the Scripture, that being alone the rule of Chris- tian faith and practice." Alaca ]\Ielat asked mc, who was the author of the Epistle to the Hebrews ? I said, that most of our learned men are of opinion, that St. Paul wrote it, proving it from Hebrews xiii. 23. But, he remarked, why did not St. Paul give us his name ? I said, " We do not know this exactly ; but it seems that St. Paul, who wrote to the Christians gathered from among the Jews, who were much offended with the Christian doctrine, intentionally concealed his name, L o 220 CHRISTIANITY SUPERIOR TO JUDAISM. which, had it been placed at the beginning of his letter would have prevented the reception of the doctrine into the hearts of the readers. Besides, the Apos- tle Paul did not consider himself as a messenger to the Jews, and therefore might have thought it better to omit his name. He intended only to prove to the Hebrew Christians the superiority of the Christian faith, inasmuch as Christ had infinitely greater glory than Moses, and as all the types of the Old Testament were fulfilled in Him ; and therefore you should continue in that faith, not being moved either by the teachers of the Jews, or by the fire of persecution. As St. Paul had to deal with Jews, he proved his doctrine from the Old Testament, in order to destroy radically their attachment to Judaism ; and there- fore the dress in which he put his letter should not deter us from attributing to him the authorship of the Epistle.^' Alaca Melat was exceedingly pleased with what I said, saying, that it was just their opinion. I said, that I did not know this ; but wished that I could agree with them in all other points of Scrip- ture. Alaca Melat is much attached to me, and said before others that was I their father, like Muallem, an Armenian, who died two years ago, and was like an Abuna of Shoa : so much did the King like him, that he built him a large house. Muallem ordained several deacons by imposition of hands. It would not be difficult for me to acquire the authority which Muallem had ; but as in adhering to the pure Scripture truth, SIN THE CAUSE OF DEATH. 221 I must oppose the Abyssinians, I cannot therefore expect to obtain such influence. Fehruary 8, 1840 — This is the last day of our expe- dition. We set out after six o'clock, A Debtera asked me on our way, whether death came into the world on account of Adam's sin or our own, and why the Saints died ? I said, that God is a God of order, and has made all things with a wise and holy order — that He intro- duced death on account of Adam's sin, as we read Gen. iii. — that as we inherit the sin of Adam, we must die hke him, because death is the wages of sin ; but that if the life of Christ is in us by a real faith in Him, it is the order of His love, that our death should become an entrance to our rest and eternal joy with Christ. With regard to the Saints, I said, that they had all died, with the exception of Enoch and Elias, who were taken away as types of Christ's ascension, and as evidences of man's immortality; that as the Saints descended from one sinful father, Adam, and were not free from personal sins till the end of their lives, they were not exempted from the order of God's justice ; and that as the sun daily rises on good as well as bad men, accord- ing to the first order and institution of God, so death comes upon all j but its consequences are determined by belief or unbelief in Christ. On our way to-day, I conversed with several Gallas, and endeavoured to get some further information re- specting their religious ideas ; but they could not tell me anything which I did not already know. As to the 222 ADVANTAGES OBTAINED rest, I must oppose those who are of opinion that the Gallas have no religious ideas whatever. Certain it is, that they have an idea of an invisible Being, which they call Wake— that man exists after death, receiving the wages of his bad or good life — that they pray to the Wake, and offer sacrifices to the Deities Oglia and Atete — and that they have a kind of priests, called Kal- litshotshj and some civil order. It is remarkable that they very much esteem the Lord's Day, which they call Sanbata Guda (Great Sabbath), on which day they do not labour. Very early in the morning they pray to the Wake. I am inclined to consider this custom of the Gallas, if they have not received it from the sur- rounding Christians, as a remnant of the fii'st institu- tion of the Sabbath. About nine o'clock we passed the river Tshatsha, and arrived at Angollala about ten o'clock. The whole priesthood received the King at the foot of the hill on which his palace is situated. They prayed for him and blessed him. As he had killed a buffalo, he was adorned with his royal ornaments, which he had put on half an hour before he entered Angollala. He had the hide of a leopard over his ordinary cloth ; on his head he had a plait of silver hanging in little chains over his face ; and on his shoulders he had three chains of gold, a symbol of the Trinity. If he has not killed anything, he is not received by the priesthood. Having performed this ceremony, he entered his palace ; while the soldiers fired their guns, and made BY THE EXPEDITION. 223 a long cry of joy. Thus the expedition ended, by which the King has obtained little advantage, as the Gallas refused their tribute, taking refuge to their mountains. With regard to myself, I have reason to praise my God for having preserved my health and life, and for giving me some hints for my future IMis- siouary labours. I conclude wdth some remarks on the advantages which I think I have obtained by the expedition. 1 . Having seen the territories of the southern Gallas of Shoa, I am able to form a better judgment of their situation, &c. than before. 2. I have observed some places which I think are fit for the undertaking of a Galla Mission. The first place where I believe that a Missionary could begin, is in the tribe of Mulofalada, under the protection of Queen Tshamieh. He would there be in the midst of Galla tribes ; and besides, he would be far from the influence of Abyssinian priests. And as to his con- nexion with his brethren in Shoa, he could avail him- self of the connexion of Tshamieh, who always sends messengers to Ankobar. A second place for a Galla I\Iission is Ferrer, on the route to Guraguc, in the neighbourhood of Bulga and Mentshar. There a Missionary would enjoy more protection than even with Tshamieh. The Governor of Ferrer appears to me to be favourable to a Missionary undertaking in his tribe, as he has been educated at Ankobar with the boys of the King, and his brother, who is Gover- 224 ADVANTAGES OBTAINED nor of a neighbouring tribe^ is a Christian. A third place for a Galla Mission is perhaps Mughir, in the neighbourhood of Dcbra Libanos and the Nile; but as I have not seen the Governor of that tribe, I cannot say anything further respecting that place. I have only heard that the Governor is much attached to the King. The Lord grant that the time for the salvation of the Gallas may come, and that this great nation may live before Him ! This was my continual prayer on this expedition. 3. On this expedition I have become knowTi to the people of Shoa, as well as to the Gallas. I have con- versed with people from all the provinces of Shoa ; with governors, priests, alacas, secretaries of the King, and many other people. 4. The Gallas, as well as the people of Amhara, have seen my relation to the King, who respected me on this expedition. I do not lay much stress on this ; but it is important in the eyes of the people. I know the King's attachment to his religion and priests, and that I cannot trust him much ; but I might protit by his present kindness toward me to procure fresh ground for our Mission among the Gallas, as I do not know how the King will behave himself in course of time, particularly if the Abuna comes from Cairo, who is expected in the month of May. 5. I have observed in what manner a IMissionary may be useful on the expeditions of the King. He can preach and distribute books in the forenoon before BY THE EXPEDITION. 225 the King sets out, and in the afternoon when he rests. On the way, he can converse with many people, without being molested by beggars as at home. Finally, the expedition occupies but little of the Missionary's time, as after fifteen or twenty days he returns to his ordinary business at home. I beg leave to remark, that I hope the Committee will be pleased to take these hints into consideration, so that they may lead them to the resolution of increas- ing the Shoa Mission by one or two labourers. At the same time, I remember what I have before WTitten relative to sending a skilful and pious mechanic, who would be able to recommend the Mission to the King. L 5 CHAPTER V. CONVERSATION WITH DEBTERAS — PREPARATIONS FOR THE FORTY DAYS FASf OF THE ABYSSINIANS — SUPERSTITIOUS OPINION — ABYSSINIAN LITERATURE — VISITED BY A PRIEST OF BULGA — MODE OF EXPLAIN- ING SCRIPTURE — DEMAND FOR ^THIOPIC SCRIPTURES — SUPPOSED ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — NOTICES OF A GALLA TRIBE CALLED AVATO — VISIT TO THE MONASTERY OF THE TABIBAN — MR. KRAPF ACCOM- PANIES THE KING TO DEBRA LIBANOS — ARRIVE AT SENA MARKOS, A HOLY PLACE OF THE ABYSSINIANS — ARRIVE AT DEBRA LIBANOS — VISIT TO THE AVELL OF TECLA HAIMANOT — MIRACULOUS POWERS ATTRIBUTED TO THE WATER — SUPERSTITIOUS PRACTICE— RETURN TO ANKOBAR — NOTICES OF CAMBAT — LETTER FROM THE KING TO THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY — FURTHER NOTICES OF THE CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS— NOTICES OF WOLAMO, CAFFA, AND SENTSHERO. Fehruary 13, 1840 — Several Debteras of the Churches of St. INIary and St. George were with me this after- noon. The Debteras of St. Mary asserted that Christ, after the consummation of all things, will praise His Father in His human nature; while the Debteras of St. George asserted that Christ will judge in His deity, and not praise the Father. "VMiile they were vehemently disputing, I was silent, in order to learn their opinions and their manner of disputing. They then begged me to decide which was right. I said, that the Georgians were decidedly wrong as to the nature in which Christ shall judge, because from Matt. xxv. 31; John v. 3, 7; CONVERSATION V/ITII DEBTERAS. 227 and Acts xvii. 31, it is clear that He will judge in His glorified human nature ; but whether He would praise the Father in that nature, we had not sufficient proof in Scripture, though 1 Cor. xv. 28. might be considered as implying this. I then exhorted them to desist from their disputes, and prepare their minds for the gi'eat day on which we shall wish to stand blame- less before the Son of Man. A Debtera then said, that the monk Abba Sawold, in his Scripture lessons always compared my Amharic Pentateuch with the yEthiopic, and that he was pleased with it. Another Debtera spoke about the book called Tethanegest, (Judgment of the Kings) saying, that it had fallen from heaven at the time of Constantine the Great. Another spoke about the King of Shoa, who, two years ago, had given strict orders that every man should keep the fasts which the Church had appointed ; and that if any one should transgress this order, he should be put to prison. The King had observed that many people did not fast. I spoke about the scriptural way of salva- tion ; and oljserved, that if a sick man should add another medicine to what was prescribed by the physi- cian, he would die beyond doubt. February 21 — A priest of Lasta came to see me, to whom I spoke very freely on the duties of a Christian and a Christian priest. Afterward the King's painter came to see my book of pictures. In the evening, I wrote a letter to Bombay, and prepared a chest of iEthiopic Manuscripts for Ali Arab to take to Aden. 228 SUPERSTITIOUS OPINION. February 23, 1840 — Alaca Serat called upon me. We spoke about geography. I encouraged liim to translate into iEthiopic the geographical book written by Mr. Isenberg, which he promised to do. February 28 — To-day the Abyssinians are preparing for the forty days fast, on which account it is called Kabala, when they cleanse their kitchen vessels, par- ticularly those used in preparing meat. As my female servant had to pre]:)are some oil, she said that every male person must withdraw, else the oil would become useless on account of their shadow. I said, " I re- quest that they remain, and see how you prepare the oil. I suppose that you wish to take a part of it, and therefore in order to do so, you have recourse to super- stition." The people were therefore present when she prepared the oil, which did not on that account become useless. I took the opportunity of exposing then- superstitious opinions, particularly their bearing amu- lets, for which they sometimes pay two or three dollars, while they will not spend one piece of salt for a copy of the Bible. March 7 — To-day M. Rochet departed, being furnished with letters and presents for the King of France. I went to Farri to see Mr. Airston, a Scotchman, who had arrived in Shoa several days ago, and who was sick. He was described to me by Mr. Isenberg as a friend to the cause of Missions. March 8—10—1 was at Farri with Mr. Airston, who complained of suffering great pain in his head. DEATH OF MR. AIRSTON. 229 After ^I. Rochet had bled him, he felt better, and begged me to go quickly to Angollala to inform the King of his arrival, and his waiting for orders to be admitted to his presence. March 12 — To-day I met with the King, who anxiously inquired after Mr. Airston, and requested me to bring him to Angollala as soon as possible. March 14 — To-day, when I was about setting out for Farri, I received the painful news that Mr. Airston died before day-break, and that he had been buried at Aigebber, a Christian village in the neighbourhood of Farri. This Gentleman's disease was inflammation of the brain, occasioned by the hardships he had under- gone in the country of Adel, particularly in the plain of the H awash. March 18 — I was called by the King to Angollala. He asked me what he should do with Mr, Airston's effects. I said, that in my country it was usual in such a case to send the effects of a deceased person to his relations at home ; but as Mr. Airston's country was far from Shoa, I would advise him to write a letter to his friends or relations, to ask them what he should do with his effects. The King however did not follow my advice, but took all that belonged to this gentleman. Thus the relations of a European dying in this coun- try cannot expect to receive any part of his property. I consider that the King gave a bad example for the future in such a case ; for if I should die, all my property would fall into his hands, and my fellow- 230 ABYSSINIAN LITERATURE. labourer would receive nothing, except what the King might give him in the form of a present. March 22, 1840 — Debtera Habta Selassieh came to see me. He gave me some information respecting Abys- sinian literature. Their books, he said, are divided into four goobaiotsh, or parts ; the first part consisting of the books of the Old Testament ; the second, of the New Testament ; the third, the books of the Liks, or perfect masters, as the works of Chrysostom, Tetha- negest, and, Abooshaker ; and fourthly, the books of the monks. But none of their learned men studied all these books, most of them only knowing singing and some parts of the Old and New Testaments. Such books as are considered equal to the Bible (like Sinodis, &c.) are called " Auwaled ; " and those which are not, '' Wootshi," which means external. March 29 — In the morning, I read with Debtera Worknech Matt. 17, and then in the book Meelad, which I have mentioned before. It is divided into five parts ; treating, first, on the Trinity ; secondly, the Son ; thirdly, the Holy Ghost ; fourthly, the order of the Church and the Holy Supper ; and, fifthly, about the resurrection. In the afternoon, Debtera Kefloo, who was formerly sent by the King to Mr. Isenberg at Adowah, came to me, saying, that as he wished to return to Tigre, he would attempt to reconcile Oobieh to us, I said, that we had no enmity against him ; but that if he thought he could dispose him to recall us to Tigre, he might VISITED BY GURAGUEANS. 231 make the attempt. He said that Habta Selassie, our friend in Tigve, had requested him to speak with me on this matter. April 1 — The Guragueans who arrived several days ago came to see me to-day. I read with them in the Gospel, and distributed afterward several copies of the New Testament among them. If I could be a bless- ing to this people dm*ing their stay at Ankobar, I shovild be very glad. I asked a priest, whether their Governor had received the book I sent him. He said, that he had accepted it with the greatest pleasm-e, and had shown it to all his people -, that the rumom' was spread over the whole country, that a white man had come from beyond the Great Sea, having brought with him many Bibles, carried on camels ; and that, after a short time, the people of Cambat and Sentshero would hear it. In the evening, Tshara, the Governor of the Galla tribe Mulofalada, came and brought to me an ox, in sign of friendship. I said that I did not look for this ; but I longed for teaching his countrymen the '\\'ord of God, as I had told him formerly. He said that he would receive me, with the King's permission. Finally, he promised, that if he should come again to Shoa in the month of September next, he would pre- sent me with a fine horse. I replied, that I should be glad if he would deliver to me some Youths, whom I might instmct. April 6 — I spoke with the King about my inten- tion of teaching the Gallas. He said, "You shall not 233 MEDICINES FOR THE TAPE WORM. go at present : you shall go fii-st with me to Gurague, and distribute books : afterward, you shall go to the Gallas." Thus he makes excuses to prevent my going to the Gallas. I showed him the First Chapter of St. John, which I had translated into the Galla Language, and written in Amharic Characters. He was much pleased, and said, " You are a strong people." My servants to-day took the usual medicine against the tape-worm, which they repeat every two or three months. They told me that there were five diflferent remedies used in their country ; fii-st, Kosso, which is the most general medicine ; secondly, the fruit of the Enkoko, a kind of wood, like the branch of a vine ; thirdly, Katshamo, another kind of wood ; fourthly, the fruit of Kaloa; and fifthly, Maeteri, a kind of grass. This latter, they said, destroys the worm for ever, or at least for a long time ; but it is seldom found except in the valleys of Bulga. April 11, 1840 — To-day a priest from Bulga came, saying, that he wished to know personally the man who had sent a copy of the Ts'ew Testament to his church. I spoke with him very openly, and I believe that he went away impressed with what I had said to him. I then called upon Alaca Wolda Hanna, who gave me some proofs of their skill in explaining Scripture. The foxes have holes, and the birds of the air have nests : Matt. viii. 20, he explained thus : Foxes are kings and governors, who seek only for earthly things ; but the birds are the priests and bishops, who SCRIPTURE INTERPRETATION. 233 riv to heaven in their prayers and holy functions. Furthermore, J\latt. v. 29 : If thy right eye offend thee, S(c. He said, that the eye is the wife ; the hand, the servant ; and the right eye, the child. "When I told him the way in Avhich we explained this passage, he replied, " That is but one sense : we are fond of many senses of Scripture." I then showed him the fooHsh and bad consequences of so explaining the Word of God, and that God would become displeased ^vith us if we substitute two or more senses, just as the King of Shoa would become angry, if his people were to give some other meaning to his orders. A poor priest brought me his son, whose name is Sena Georgis, in order to have him instructed and edu- cated. I readily complied with his request. Thus I have three regular scholars. Afterward, two other priests, one from Bulga, and the other from Debra Li- banos, came begging for books. Another also came from the neighbourhood of the Karaiu Gallas, in the south of Shoa, for the same purpose. I gave to each of them a copy of the New Testament, exhorted them to teach themselves and their flocks at home, and to reflect upon the conversion of their heathenish neighbours. April 18— This moi-ning, three men, who were sent by Alaca Senos of Tegulet, came begging for ^Ethiopic copies of the New Testament. As I had given them all away, I sent him the Amharic New Testament and Pentateuch. A Debtcra afterward came and spoke about the origin of the Gallas. He said, that the 23i ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS. mother of the Gallas had been a woizoro (lady) of the Abyssinian Kings when they resided on the mountain EntotOj in the neighbourhood of Gurague — that the lady was given in marriage to a slave from the south of Gurague, by whom she had seven sons, who were educated in their father's language and customs, as well as in his business, which was that of a herdsman — • that the sons became great robbers, having gathered many people with them — that three of these sons were called Tulema, Karaiu, and Maitsha ; and hence the Tribes of these names— that when they thought they were strong enough, they began to fight mth the Abys- sinians, and frequently vanquished them, particularly on one occasion near the river Gala, in Gurague ; and hence they have been called Gallas to the present day. When Mahomed Gragne desolated Shoa and Gurague, the Gallas entered and took possession of many fine places. All this is written in a small treatise, of which I have procured a copy. This account of the origin of the Gallas I think is very probable. April 24, 1840 — To-day begins what is called by the Abyssinians Kenona, that is, for three days the people neither eat nor drink ; and the Bala Dirgo, or those who receive their maintenance from the King, receive only dry bread, because these are days of prayer. However, I received my portion from the King's table as at other times. To-day I took another boy into my house, who wished to be instructed. He is from Dima in Godt- sham. Thus I have four scholars. OBSERVANCE OF FASTS. 235 yipr'il 25 : Good Friday — This is tlie first Good Friday for the last four years that I have been able to celebrate in silence and without outward trouble, having been formerly always travelling on this day. I prayed that the power of Christ's death might come upon myself, as well as upon this poor country. Ajjril 27 — This morning the strong fast of the Abyssinians ended. Since the evening of the 24th, the people, particularly the priests, have abstained from all food. If they are not able to overcome their bodily wants, they eat a citron. As to the priests, they arc in the chm'ches day and night, singing and praying ; so that I am surprised that they are able to endure it so long. The Abyssinians strictly keep the fast of the primitive Church, which was forty hours. This morn- ing the priests of the five chm'ches w^ent to the King, who called me to see their ceremonies. After the priest of each church had finished their hjTiins in honour of the King, each Alaca recited an epigram in praise of the King. For instance, Alaca Serat said that the Gallas, who were formerly superior to the Abyssinians, have at present been weakened as far as Maitsha by the heroic virtue of Sahela Selassieh. Wolda Hanna, the Alaca of St. George, said, '' The people of the Franks are come to praise and adore the King of Shoa." In- deed, if they were against me, they could do me much harm, as on such occasions they speak what they like, and all the people of Ankobar are assembled. Gene- rally speaking, I am convinced that in case a strong 236 NOTICES OF THE opposition should arise against our Mission, the priests would have more power than they had in Tigre, because the King is influenced more by them than Oobieh. I therefore endeavour, so far as it is compatible with the Word of God, to make the priests my friends ; and for this purpose I have found it of great use to read with them the Word of God, and to explain it in a simple, clear, and practical manner. Besides, I endeavour to keep up a friendly intercourse with the Alacas of the Churches, and visit them sometimes in the church on Lord's days. Also on fast days (Wednesday and Friday) I have resolved, for well-considered reasons, to abstain at least from meat. After the King had kissed the cross which was presented to him by the Alaca of each church, all the people went home, and then the Fasika (eating and drinking) began. The King sent me a cow. April 28, 1840 — This morning two Watos came to see me. The W^atos are Gallas, dwelling on the mountain Wato-Dalatsha, which I saw on our expedition to Maitsha, in the neighbourhood of the Hawash. The Watos say that they alone are pm-e Gallas, and therefore they do not marry the others. When I asked about their bu- siness, they replied, that it was to bless and to curse. With this view, they go from tribe to tribe, and neither Gallas nor Christians will touch them ; being convinced, they say, that whom the Watos bless are blessed, and whom they cm-se are cursed ; and they are not wanting on their parts to relate a number of instances to show GALL A TRIBE WATO. 237 the success of their blessings. When the Watos enter the houses of the Gallas, they are directly prevented by them, who are in great fear of their cursing. How- ever, they let them eat and drink as much as they like, because if they did not, the Watos would curse them. They are particularly fond of the flesh of the hippo- potamus, which they kill in great numbers in the Ha- wash ; and in this respect they resemble the Woitos in Amhara, whom I have before mentioned. The other G alias are not fond of this flesh, nor that of hens, though they sacrifice the hen to the bad spirits (Sarotsh). They also told me that they sometimes sacrifice a white cow to the OgUa, and a male-goat to the Atete ; that they pray much on the Sanbata Gudda (Great Sab- bath), and take cofi"ee on that day in honour of Oglia ; on which account coffee di-inking is despised by the Christians, as well as in opposition to the Mahomedans. They said that I might travel any where with them without fear. On asking them about the sources of the Hawash, they told me that it rose from a marsh at the foot of a mountain called Entsheti, between Mait- sha and Betsho Woreb. As they were about to bless me, I said that I would make them acquainted with the blessings of Him who created heaven and earth, and had so loved mankind that He gave His Son Jesus Christ to redeem them from sin, and to make them happy in this and another world, if they would only believe in His blessed Son. I then endeavoured to show them the nature of sin, and the necessity of a 238 VISIT TO THE Savioiu" in order to be reconciled to God. The Chris- tians who heard me speaking with heathens about Christ and faith in Him, were much pleased. April 29, 1840 — All the people were eating and drinking, and many excesses wxre committed in the streets. The Debteras were worst of all. One of them being drunk to-day, cut off the hand of his friend, and took to flight. In the evening they went thi'ough the town begging for alms. I took the opportunity of showr ing them the bad consequences of their fasting. These Debteras, a year ago, went to the Gallas of Mentshar, the Governor of whom was about to put them to prison; but as they feigned that the King, who had sent them, was drawing near, they were set at liberty — Two priests from Latibata in Lasta came begging for books, which I gave them. May 1 — Three monks from Lasta came to see me : they were great beggars, as monks in general are. Afterward, a man from Bulga came, begging for medi- cine. As the King to-day distributed much clothing among the poor, in memory of Tecla Haimanot, I took the opportunity of sho^ang my people how we are clothed with Christ's righteousness without our own merits. May 5 — I went this morning to see the Tabiban in their monastery, called ^lantck, in the forest of ]\Iamrat, about two hours' walk from Ankobar. On arriving at the village, I asked for the Alaca, when, after a consi- derable time, an old man came trembling, and so much MONASTERY OF THE TABIBAN. 239 afraid of me, that he was about to return immediately to his house. I told him, however, that I had not come with a bad design : he stayed a short time, but still trembling from hands to feet. He wore iron around his loins, and his whole body wore traces of self-tor- tm'e, of which he much boasted. I inquired for their books ; but those I saw were the same as the other Abyssinians possess ; namely, Organon INIariam, Melka Michael, and some parts of the Bible. All were written in iEthiopic. I endeavoured to ascertain whether they had any books in another language ; but they always said that they had not. They then introduced me to the room in which the congregations assemble, larger and better constructed than any I have seen of the kind in Abyssinia, though it is very dark. In this room, next to the walls, are raised banks of clay, upon which they sleep in an upright posture, being secured from falling by straps which are fastened to the walls. They were very proud of praising their religious rigi- dity, for which they do not come short of the other Abyssinians, even of their monks. But when I asked why they had recom'se to such austerity, they replied, in order that they might become righteous before God. I then told them about the only way of being justified before God, according to Rom. iii. Indeed this people endeavour to the utmost to enter into the kingdom of God only by their own performances. They said, that they fast every day, except on Saturday and Sunday ; and that they were pure in body and mind. They wear 240 THE T.\BIBAN. Matebs, like the Abyssinians, and are skilful in many things, working in iron and clay. On this account, the King is attached to them ; bvit the Abyssinians are in great fear of them, considering them sorcerers, and will neither enter their houses, nor eat with them. Their Alaca is feared so much, that they believe that if he cursed a person, the curse would be fulfilled in a short time. The Tabiban seem to me intentionally to en- tertain this fear, which protects them against the per- secutions of the Abyssinians, and prevents intercourse with those who have not the same ideas with them. Outwardly they arc Christians, as they go to the churches of the Christians ; their children are baptized, and they have the books of the Abyssinians ; but they are strongly suspected of being Jews. They told me that if I had come on Saturday, they would not have received me, as on that day they neither go out of their houses nor kindle fires. Their fathers, they said, came from Geshen, in the north of Shoa. I could not learn any thing further from them at this time. They set bread and Abyssinian beer before me, of which I was not afraid to partake, though my people would not. I promised to send them a copy of the New Testament. I went home, being grieved at not having found real Christians, as I was formerly inclined to think them. We seek in vain for a hidden church in Abyssinia. May 8, 1840 — All the people are going to the festi- val of Tecla Haimanot at Debra Libanos, to drink of the holy well of this Saint, which is said to cure sick VISIT TO DEBRA LIBANOS. 241 men ou the fast days of this monk. I had resoh-ed to go and ascertain the truth of this report ; but the instruc- tion of my four boys detained me at Ankobar. May 9 — To-day the Shoans each kill a hen. They say that they thus prevent sickness or other calamity coming upon them or their country. The Mahome- dans do the same. They consider this as a means of re- conciliation with God. Such is the darkness of this people ! It is evident that they have adopted this custom fi'ora the Gallas. Such things always lead me to think that there is but little hope of a reformation of this fallen Church. However, the Lord can do above what we can understand at present. I finished to-day Geography with my boys ; but I intend repeating it. I have found the method useful, first to go over slightly a part of the book, and then more closely afterward, till it is impressed on the minds of my scholars. May 13 — This morning I set out from Ankobar for Angollala. The King had invited me to accompany him to Dcbra Libanos, a holy place of the Abyssinians, the distance of four days^ journey from Ankobar, in the north-west of Shoa. Tecla Haimanot, one of the most celebrated saints of Abyssinia, is said to have lived here. In the month of May the Abyssinians celebrate the death of this saint, at which time pilgrims from all parts of Shoa, and other provinces of Abyssinia, assem- ble at Debra Libanos to drink from the TabeJe, the so- called wonder-well of Tecla Haimanot, in order to be M 24.2 VILLAGE OF KUM DENGAI. cured from sickness, and obtain forgiveness of sins for seven years. The King himself usually goes to protect the pilgrims against the inroads of the Gallas. I at first determined not to accept the invitation ; but as the King had sent an express, I thought it better not to refuse it, preferring however to go alone with my servants through the Galla Tribes of Abedtshoo and Gelan, in order to learn the correctness of the intelli- gence which I had received about the recent conversion of the Galla people in Shoa Meda. May 14, 1840 — This morning we passed the Tshatsha river, which separates the Christians and Gallas in a north-north-westerly direction for the distance of several days' journey. This river flows through a deep dale between two hills, which prevents the passage on the side of the Christians as well as of the Gallas. This natural obstacle may be the reason why the Gallas were formerly imable to destroy the whole Christian king- dom of Shoa, and why the King has built Angollala in the neighbourhood of the passage of this river, as he has thus the key to the Galla countries in the south and west of Shoa. Having marched the whole day through a plain land, in the evening we rested at Kum Dengai, the village in which Berkie, who assists me in my Galla translations, was born. His people received me very well. May 15 — This morning we left Kum Dengai, accom- panied by about two hundred persons. Several petty Governors of the Galla villages begged me tobaptize them. DESIRE FOR BAPTISM. 243 I said that I could not do so until they had first been in- structed in the doctrines of the Christian Religion, and sincerely believed in the Lord Jesus Christ. It is a great pity that the Abyssinian priests do not require something more from the Gallas than being circumcised and baptized, wearing a string of silk, building churches, and making ofi'erings of grain to the priests. The King had imperatively required all the Gallas in the district of the Ayto Organon to become Christians ; and being therefore in great fear, they had been cir- cumcised, and built five ehm'chcs. These are the facts of the reported conversion of the Gallas in the pro- vince of Shoa Meda. A Galla Mission might be esta- blished there ; but nothing can be done without the consent of the King. I hope, however, that he will not prevent my going there. I spoke with these simple Gallas respecting the real conversion of their hearts to the living God. They were surprised at my not laying stress upon those things which the Abyssinian priests endeavour to point out as being indispensably necessary. At Kum Dengai, the Tshatsha, Beresa, and three other rivers join together in a deep dale, and take the common name of Adabai ; which, having taken up several other rivers and rivulets, is called Jamma, in the neighbour- hood of Sena Markos. May 16 — To-day we arrived at Sena Markos, where the whole north and west of Shoa is seen. In the north and west, a chain of high mountains extends, which protects this Christian kingdom against the inroads of M 2 2-i4 VILLAGE OF SENA MARKOS. the Gallas. Sena INIarkos is the second holy place of the AbyssinianSj where Sena Markos, a great saint, is said to have lived in the time of Tccla Haimanot. The entrance to this village conducts over a steep rock, which only one ])erson can pass in descending. The village is surrounded in the east and north by a rock : it is a natural fortress. I asked after the Alaca of Sena Markos, who is also Alaca of Tegulet ; but the people told me that he was at Debra Libanos. I then drank of the holy water, which flows between a rock. I found it a little heavy. The whole nature of Sena Markos shows that it has been shaken very much by earthquakes, as immense rocks have fallen down into the valley in which the majestic river Jamma has its course to the Nile, which is only three days distant from Sena Markos. I observed the bed of the Nile between the mountains of Godtsham and the Dera Galla tribe. May 17, 1810 — To-day we passed the bed of a dry river, which Tecla Haimanot is said to have cursed, be- cause the water of it had carried away the cross which had fallen from the hands of the saint. As the cross was found at the mouth of the river, they say that, on this account, water can only be seen there. I told them, however, that the water flowed beneath the sand. It is beyond all belief how fond the Abyssinians are of stories respecting their saints. We marched for a long time tlirough a district which had been totally desolated by the Avars of King Asfa Wussen with the people of the provinces of Morabietie and Morat. These provinces ARRIVE AT DEBRA LIBANOS. 245 were formerly governed by their own King. Their first King was Masamer ; the second, Abisag; thethird, Jesaias ; the foui*th, Zeddu ; and the fifth Hailu. Asfa "VVussen, King of Efat and Shoa, and the father of Sahela Selassieh, the present King of Shoa, vanquished King Zeddu; and Sahela Selassieh vanquished King Hailu, and united his kingdom to Shoa and Efat. The residence of these Kings was on the hill Joalo, at the foot of which we had rested the day before. The people of Morabietie and Morat are rude and proud. May 18 — Yesterday evening we rested in the neigh- boxirhood of Debra Libanos, and this morning we passed the river Sega-Wodam, which is the confluence of the Sana Boka, Sana Robi, and other rivers, which I passed in the Galla Tribes of Gelan and Woberi. The Sega-Wodam flows into the Nile. Pilgrims are advised by the priests, on passing this river, to bathe themselves in it before they drink of the holy water of Tecla Haimanot. Though I had warned my people against such a foolish practice, yet they cast themselves naked into the river. We then ascended the mountain on which Uebra Libanos is situated, when I learnt that the King was at the wells. I hastened therefore to meet him. After the return of the King to his tent, he conversed with me for a short time, and said, " You have done well in coming to see our miracles." I said, that I intended to go the next day and examine the quality of the water. May 19 — To-day I set out to visit the well of Tecla 246 VISIT THE WELL OF TECLxi HAIMANOT. Haimanot. The water wliicli I took disagreed with me. I observed traces of iron in the stones. It is a mineral water ; but the superstition of the xVbyssinians, and the cunningness of the priests, have attributed to it miraculous powers. They drink the water from five to ten days. I was asked by many people, par- ticularly priests, what I thought of it. I said, that water of this kind also existed in my country ; that God had blessed this water with healing properties for the good of men ; and that therefore they should give the glory to God, and not to Tecla Haimanot. I then directed them to Christ. Beggary and monkery are very great at Debra Libanos, and I do not much like the place. I sent a copy of the ^thiopic New Testament to the Alaca of the Church of St. Marj^, which he accepted with much pleasure. The priests of this Church say, that, many years ago, a cross fell from heaven, which a monk having found gave it to their Church. AVhen the pilgrims have drank from the well of Tecla Haimanot, they go to this Church to kiss the cross. Debra Libanos is a natural fortress, and cannot be taken without European arms. The village is not very large. May 21, 1840 — To-day the King went vAih. the pil- grims to the place where water flows out from the rocks. It is difficult to ascend this place. The King himself took some of the water in his own cup, and presented it to the people. Here they dug some mire, of a blue colour, and painted their faces in the form of a cross. RETURN TO ANKOBAR. 217 believing that this will prevent sickness. There is a tree here which is spht, through which they say Tecla Haimanot saved himself on the inroad of the Gallas ; but I told them that at the time of Tecla Haimanot the Gallas were not known in Abyssinia. The King ha\ing performed this ceremony, gave orders to return to Augollala. We marched first westward to the mountains of Mugher, and then through the Tribes of Gullale, Tshidda, AVoberi, Gelan, and Abedtshoo, arriving at Augollala on the 26th of May. May 27 — To-day I arrived at Ankobar. I received the painful news, that ]\Ir. Kielmaier, a German officer and friend of mine, had died on the road ; and that his servant, Husseui, or Samuel Georgis, as he was called by the Rev. W. Kruse, who baptized him at Cairo, was on the way, having with him his master's luggage. May 28 — To-day Ibrahim, the servant of Mr. Airston, whose death I mentioned on the 14th of March, died in consequence of hectic fever. He was interred in a place called Kobastle, in the lower part of Ankobar, where ]Mahomedans are usually buried. I with my servant and the Armenian Pietros attended the funeral. The body was covered with a white Abyssinian cloth, and carried on a barrow to the grave, which was dug in the form usual witli the Christians, no Mahomedans being at hand to make it according to their custom. It was about three feet deep, and very narrow ; so that there was scarcely room for the body. Wood was then placed uj)on the corpse. 248 COUNTRY OF CAMBAT. upon which they put earth and stones ; so that the rain shoukl not penetrate, nor hyaenas be able to un- cover the grave. The effects of the deceased were then taken an account of by the King's people, and taken into his magazine. The people who took care of Ibrahim during his sickness did not receive any portion of his property. May 30, 1840 — A priest of Gurague came to see me. He said that he had been in Cambat ; that the pre- sent King, a good old man, was called Degoie ; that the capital city was called Karemsa, situated on a mountain ; that this kingdom is not very large ; and that there are only fifteen churches, but no priests. Cam- bat is distant from Gurague only six days journey. In the evening, Debtera Habta Selassieh came, begging me to teach him the Hebrew Language before he learnt the Greek, which he had begun. As the Hebrew has a greater affinity to the Abyssinian lan- guages, I thought that he would soon advance in the Hebrew, and therefore I complied with his request. June 1 — Samuel Georgis arrived to-day at Farri, and confirmed the news which I had before received of his master's death. I took to-day a fifth boy into my house, who wished to be instructed by me. His name is Himtza Roophael, a native of Dima, in Godt- sham. He was with Ibrahim, whose death I have before mentioned. In the evening I began Hebrew with Habta Selassieh. June 2 — I began Bible history with my boys. "With COURSE OF INSTRUCTION. 249 regard to other branches of knowledge, I think it better at first to restrict myself to geographj% uni- versal, and natiu'al history. I consider biblical in- struction as the principal part. In the morning and evening I have service with the boys. Besides which I intend to preach a sermon every Lord's day to the people of my house, but without excluding others who may wash to hear me. The Lord be praised for the gracious assistance which He has hitherto given me ! Ju7ie 8 — I was called by the King to Angollala, where I met with Samuel Georgis. The King asked me about the luggage of Ibrahim, as he had not received the whole of it. I replied, that as Ibrahim was not in my house, I could not tell who had taken his property. He then said, " I know that you have not taken anything; but the two monks and other people who were with Ibrahim in the same house have stolen what belonged to me. I shall make them swear before the priests." I said, that the monks would not care for that, as they had told me that if they should be excommunicated in Shoa, they would go to Cairo, where the Coptic Patriarch would dis- annul the excommunication. June 13 — After returning from Angollala, I arranged the lessons with my boys in the following manner. In the forenoon, morning prayer, reading of the Bible and exposition, writing, and biblical narrations. In the afternoon, reading of the Bible, biblical doctrines M 5 250 LETTER FROM THE KING in a systematic manner, geography, and imiversal his- tory. Service in the evening. June 20, 1840 — I have been unwell for the last three days. My sickness began with fever and swelling in my neck. My people believed that I had got what they call " Lagheda-sickness," or swelling of the ton- sils, and were afraid that I should die. They said, that the Abyssinians generally cut off the swollen parts; and that if they did not do this, there was no hope of recovery. Tliinking that this operation might be of use, I did not refuse it j but when they failed in remov- ing the swelling, I requested them to leave me, telling them that I knew what was best myself. Then they spoke about bad spirits, which they said would kill me if I did not follow their advice. In the evening I was much better. Jime 22 — To-day, with the Lord's gracious assis- tance, I was able to perform my ordinary business. June 27 — The King having returned from his expe- dition against the Sirto Gallas in the south of Shoa, I was called by him to Angollala with Samuel Georgis. June 28 — The King spoke with me about the Letter which he intended to write to India. The Letter, which he ordered me to translate into the English Lan- guage, iTins thus : — "May this Letter, which is sent by Sahela Selassieh, the King of Shoa and Efat, of Gurague and of the Galla nation, come to the great English Company in India. Are you well ? I am quite well. About your TO THE GOVERNOR OF BOMBAY. 251 happiness, I liave been informed by your countrymen ; and, as I heard of your kindness toward all men, I was much rejoiced, and resolved upon making friendship with you. WTiether my person is bad or good, you will have heard from your countrymen, who have been in my country. I wish very much that it may please you to make friendship with me. God has given me a good and large kingdom ; but arts and sciences have not yet come to my country, as they have to yours. May it therefore please you to assist me, particularly in sending guns, cannon, and other things, which I have not in my country. I do not state how much you shall send me. You may act according to your love and kindness, which are known everywhere. As to myself, I am ready to send to yovi things which are not in your country. You may please to tell me what you wish, and I shall send it to you. The reason that I did not send it to you at present, is, that I did not know completely what you wish from me. I have sent to you two horses, having understood that you like them. This may be considered as a sign of friendship. I do not think that it is a fit present to you ; but you may consider it as the beginning of my love toward you, and of my friendship with you." A similar letter was written to C apt. Haines at Aden, accompanied by a present of a horse and mule, a gas- sela skin, and an Abyssinian cloth. June 29 — To-day I returned to Ankobar. On the way we were overtaken l>y heavy rain, which in a 252 INSTANCE OF THE short time swelled tlie rivulets so much, that one of my servants, who was carrying my provisions and kitchen vessels, was carried away by the stream, and would have been lost if he had not seized a large stone which was in the middle of the water. All the luggage, however, which he had with him was lost. July 6, 184'0' — Samuel Georgis set out from Ankobar to go to Aden. I shall be very glad if his mission proves successful, as otherwise I am afraid that the King will become cold toward me and all Europeans. Juli/ 14 — In my sermon to-day, I explained to my people what was the divine image of Adam, and what was his fall. In the afternoon, 1 examined my boys about my morning sermon. Afterward, we read the history of Balaam. I found much consolation in the words : — How shall I curse, ivhom God hath ?wt cursed ? July 21 — I preached about the new birth, according to John iii. 6. Two Debteras were with us. Afterward, I spoke with them about their neglecting the instruc- tion of their people. Debtera AVorknech said that the priests themselves were not instructed, and gave me the following instance of their ignorance. Some years ago, the Gallas on the Nile made an inroad into Godtsham, when a Galla took from the house of a Christian the Books of Samuel and the Kings in iEthiopic. Some time afterward the King of Shoa fell upon these Gallas, and a Christian soldier from Bulga found the books in the house of a Galla, and took them to Bulga, when IGNORANCE OF THE PRIESTS. 253 he showed them to his priests, who considering them conjm-ing-books, would not touch them. Afterward, Worknech went to Bulga, and knowing their bibhcal contents, bought them for three pieces of salt, though the usual price is three dollars. July22 — I called in the morning upon Alaca AYolda Hanna, who always asks me about such passages of the Bible as he does not well understand. Afterward, I received a friendly letter from Capt. Haines at Aden, by the arrival of Ali Arab, who brought mc some money. The collector of taxes had taken from the money thirty-three dollars; but the King returned them to me, saying, that he did not levy custom upon my money. My people advised me to offer the thirty- three dollars to the King; but I said that I never would make a present in money, as it would be of bad consequences in future; and besides I had no money to spare. July 28 — In my sermon to-day I instructed my people about the real nature of true repentance, accor- ding to Joel ii. July 29 — In translating Matt, xix., my Galla in- formed me that the Gallas took the wife of a deceased brother. A Dcbtera from Mantek, the monastery of the Tabiban, came to see me. He praised much their lashing themselves with thorns at appointed times, washing their feet till they become white, and their old Alaca. I spoke with him about the Pharisee and publican, Luke xviii. 254 MONASTERY OP MAMRAT. August 4), 1840 — To-day Guebra Georgis, whom I had not seen for more than a month, came to see me. He said, that he had been in a monastery called Mamrat (mother of mercy,) at the foot of a high mountain, and had read the whole New Testament with three monks, who had begged him to teach them Amharic, As the sister of his father had been disgraced by the King, she went to the monks of this monastery, in order by their assistance to be reconciled to the King. Guebra accompanied her to the monastery. He told me that these monks fed a number of sick and poor people at the expense of the monastery. This is the first example of the kind I have heard of in Shoa. I have frequently thought of establishing a similar insti- tution, in which I might supply poor people not only with bread for the body, but more particularly with the bread of life. I have calculated that the expenses would be about twenty-five to thirty dollars for ten persons. Indeed such an institution would highly recommend our work in the eyes of the Shoans, and the King in par- ticular. But such an institution could not be establish- ed without the consent of the King, as a separate building would be requisite ; but I do not think that he would refuse a petition to do good to the poor people, to whom he pays attention in many respects. August 5 — \^liile I was instructing my boys, a monk came begging me for a rosary, having lost his own. I said, that I had none, and was not in want of any, as I was ordered by the Word of God to pray continually. CHILDREN ORDERED TO FAST. 255 SO that I could not count my prayers ; that such a con- tinual praying intercourse with the Lord was the ope- ration of the Holy S})irit, and could not be bought ; and that he should pray for this Holy Spirit, and offer his whole heart to Him, and then he would not want such a useless thing. The monk went away gi'ieved at not being able to say over his beads. August 6 — To-day the sixteen days' fast of the Abys- sinians begin, in memory of the pretended ascension of St. Mary. The King went to Machal Wans, to keep there a sti'ong fast, which is prescribed by the Church at this time. Children also are commanded to fast, on which account I spoke to my boys respecting fasting. As children also receive the Sacrament at this time, I instructed them about this holy mystery, ac- cording to Matt. xxvi. 27, and 1 Cor. xi. ; and parti- cularly endeavoured to expose their error respecting this sacrament, showing them from 1 Cor. xi. 29 — 31 that an unholy reception of it will produce sickness, and in general a judgment on body and mind. August 1 1 — A man from Debra Bcrhan came, begging for an iEthiopic New Testament. I said, that I had given away all that I possessed. I bought a beautiful skin of a red cow for six pieces of salt. The Shoans, particularly the people of Morat, are skilful in pre])aring skins. They take the bark of a tree, called (juffu, and pulverize it ; then they put it with the skin into water for about eight days, after which tlie skin is 256 CUSTOMS OF THE GALLAS. taken out, rubbed with the juice of lemons, and dried in the sun. My Galla made me acquainted with some other cus- toms of his people. Every eight years, he said, they appoint a Heiu, or general Governor, a man who has the reputation of being a warrior and public speaker, who passes through the whole tribe, hearing the com- plaints of the oppressed, and deciding in cases of jus- tice. He also decides in matters of war and peace. Wherever he goes, he is respected, and supplied with all that he wants. When the eight years have expired, he is called Gedamotsh, a repeated Governor. He cannot be chosen the second time. In the south of Shoa to the Hawash, three Heius are appointed. If a Galla likes a stranger, he makes him his Mogasa, or favourite, declaring before the Abadula, the governor of a small district, that he has made him his friend, and that no man should touch him. This ceremony is performed before the whole people, and sacrifices are offered. If any one should kill or ofi'end the Mogasa, he is obliged to pay 100 kum or 100 oxen, which is the price paid by a murderer. If you have become the Mogasa of a Galla, you can go through the whole tribe ; but if you have not, the Gallas would kill you immediately. I do not doubt that Tshara, the Governor of Mulofalada, would give me this privilege if I should go to his country. August 13, 1840 — I called upon Alaca Wolda Hanna, who wished to study the Hebrew language, having KINGDOM OF WOLAMO. 257 been informed of Habta Selassieh's having advanced in this study in a short time. Thus I have two scholars in Hebrew. August 17 — The father of the present King of Shoa is said to have foretold, in consequence of a dream^ that at the time of his son, Sahela Sclassieh, red people, (thus white people are called by the Abyssinian s) would come and teach all arts and wisdom. As several Whites have lately arrived in Shoa, the people begin to think that this prophesy is about to be accomplished. A slave from Wolamo, in the south of Cambat, gave me some information respecting his country. Wolamo is a small kingdom inhabited by Christians, who are ^\ithout priests. The capital city is called Wofana, and a large river called Uma, of which I had heard before, flows through the country. The people are circumcised, but do not keep fasts, and have but few festivals in the course of the year. A slave is bought for twenty pieces of salt. The neighbouring Galla tribes, are Kulla, Worata, and Limo. As the above mentioned slave had been first sold to Caffa, and thinking that he would be able to give me some information about this country, I asked him some questions. The King of CafFa is a warrior, and makes war with all his neighbours. In the south of Caffa there is a black people, called Golda, who go nearly naked. Tliey do not eat the flesh of cows, but only nuikc use of the milk. Another people of this kind are called Doko, who are at war with Caffa. The capital 358 NOTICES RESPECTING cities of Caffa are Dentsli and Bonga. A great river, called Kibbe, flows from Caffa to the Nile, but others say to the south. Probably it may be the Quilimance, which flows into the Indian Ocean at the higher parts of the Melinde. The people of Caffa manufacture good cloth. A good piece is bought for six pieces of salt. The currency of Caffa consists in pieces of salt ; silver money not being known. The cm-rency of Wolamo is also in salt, which they get from the Arroosi Gallas. August 18, 1840 — I spoke in my sermon about real faith, according to 1 John v. I was told that Alaca Wolda Hannahad taken my Hebrew Bible to his church, and recommended the study of Hebrew. August 30 — A slave from Sentshiro gave me some information respecting his country. The present King, Amo, is a warrior, and likes all people of this kind. It seems to me that the people of Sentshiro were formerly Christians, because they have circumcision and some Christian feasts ; but otherwise they do not appear to know any thing about Christianity. The capital city is called Anger. The Sentshii'os, like the Gallas, do not eat hens. Goats also are not eaten. The Guraguean mer- chants go to Sentshiro, and receive Dirgo (maintenance) from the King till they return to then* country. Women only are sold as slaves to other countries : male slaves from Sentshiro are obtained by other nations by means of war. The reason why females only are sold, is stated to be this — ]\Iany ages ago, the King of Sent- shiro commanded a man of quality to slaughter his THE COUNTRY OF SENTSHIRO. 259 wife, as the King needed her as a medicine. The man went honie^ but did not venture to kill his wife, though he found her asleej). The King then ordered the wife to kill her husband, which she did ; and on ac- count of this female cruelty, the custom arose of selling only women to other countries. There are people in Sentshiro who have no other duties to pay than to deliver their first-born sons to the king, who appoints these unfortunate creatures for sacrifices. The reason of this barbarity is stated to be this — Formerly a high pillar of iron stood in the neigh- bourhood of the capital city, and as long as this column existed, the people of Sentshiro had neither summer nor winter, but had rain the whole year, and the fruits did not come to maturity. The king having asked his learned men what should be done in order to secure the seasons of summer and winter, they cut downi the pillar nearly to the ground, when the rain decreased, and the fruits ripened. But they advised the King that it was necessary, in order to prevent a return of the former confusion, always to sacrifice a number of first-born sons to the Deity. A part of the pillar is still to be seen, as I learned from my informant. This evening one of the King's slaves, who, with her husband, resides in the fore part of my house, having been delivered of a child, the house has become unclean for twenty days, and whoever enters it, is considered unclean and cannot go to church, nor take the; Holy Sujjper. Thus are the Abyssiniaus insnarcdwith num- 260 ABYSSINIANS ENSLAVED BY CEREMOiNIES. berless forms and ceremonies — fetters of self-righteous- ness ; lost in darkness^ and separated from the life of God. How is it then to be expected that they should enlighten the surrounding heathens. May the Lord^ our faithful God, soon cause His blessed light to shine upon ^Ethiopia and the numerous tribes of heathens of central Africa, that His holy Name, in these strong holds of darkness and death, may alone be praised for ever and ever ! PART III. JOURNEY FROM ANKOBAR TO MASSOWAH. CHAPTER I. MOTIVES FOR UNDERTAKING THE JOURNEY— DEPARTURE FROM ANKO- BAR— GOOD FEELING MANIFESTED BY THE PEOPLE TOWARD MR. KRAPF — ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA — INTERVIEW WITH THE KING -DIS- TRIBUTION OF SCRIPTURES — FAREWELL VISIT TO THE KING — LEAVE ANGOLLALA, AND ARRIVE AT DEBRA BERHAN— TRADITIONS RESPECT- ING IT — POPULATION — ARRIVE AT BOLLO WORKIE — CELEBRATED MAR- KET HELD HERE — ARTICLES OF TRADE— ORIGIN OF THE NAME BOLLO WORKIE — SUPERSTITIOUS OPINIONS OF THE ABYSSINIANS — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF LOGHEITA — WELL RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR — WONASTERV OF SAINT ABBO — LEAVE LOGHEITA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST — ENQUIRIES RESPECTING THE ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS — GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISION OF THE DIFFERENT PROVINCES OF SHOA — ARRIVE AT ZALLA DENGAI — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION BY ZENAMA WORK, THE MOTHER OF THE KING OF SHOA — ORIGIN OF THE NAME ZALLA DENGAI — DEPARTURE FROM ZALLA DENGAI — CROSS THE RIVER MOFER— ENTER THE PROVINCE OF MANS — NOTICES OF ITS FORMER RULERS — CHARACTER OF THE MANSIANS — SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF jIANS — LEAVE WOKAN, AND ENTER THE DISTRICT OF LALO — TRADI- TION RESPECTING THE LAKE ALOBAR — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF AMAD- WASHA— DISTRIBUTION OF AMHARIC SCRIPTURES— LEAVE AMAD — WASHA — SUPERSTITION OF THE PEOPLE — ARRIVE AT DAIR, THE FRONTIER OF SHOA — VISIT' THE GOVERNOR. Ankobar, March 10, 181.2 — I h.vd for some time 26.2 MOTIVES FOR THE JOURNEY. past been anxiously looking forward to a journey to the sea coast. The obstacles which my dear Brethren, Messrs. MuUer and Muhleisen, who had been sent out by the Committee to assist the Shoa INIission, had met at Tadjm'ra, regarding their proceeding to Shoa, had been a matter of sorrow to me, and called forth such endeavours on my part as might enable them to prose- cute their way to Shoa, and commence their Missionary labours in that country. A speedy journey to the sea coast was considered the best step which I could take to facilitate their proceeding to Shoa ; a step which had been recommended to me by the Committee in a Letter which had informed me of the departure of the Breth- ren from Europe. Desirable, however, as this step would have been on my part, yet the precarious situation of our Mission in Shoa, prevented me for a considerable time from taking a step which would undoubtedly prove beneficial to my Brethren on the coast. Her Majesty's Embassy arrived at the Court of Shoa with most valuable tokens of friend- ship to the King of Shoa. The principal object of this Embassy was to form a Treaty of amity and commerce with his Shoan Majesty. A Treaty of this nature was of course of great importance to the external existence of our Mission, because if once concluded by the Sove- reigns of Great Britain and Shoa, it woidd include a footing for British subjects in the dominions of Shoa. But the question was, whether the King, although he had first expressed his desire to join in friendship with TREATY WITH THE KING OF SHOA. 2G3 Her Majesty's Government, could be persuaded to sub- scribe to tlie terms of a Treaty, which would render this footing undoubted and uncontested. So long as his Shoan jNIajesty's sentiments toward Great Britain was not known, my external situation was also doubtful in many respects ; and had his Majesty refused to enter into any connexion with the British, the increase of Missionary labourers in Shoa would not have been ad- visable. Thus my departure for the coast was pro- tracted by circumstances which it was not in my power to remove, although I did all that I could to forward the Government's object whenever an opportimity was presented to me. This state of uncertainty with regard to his Shoan JNIajesty's sentiments toward Great Britain, was however removed by the terms of a Treaty which Her Majesty's Representative, Capt. C. W. Harris, concluded with the King of Shoa on the 16th of Nov. 1841, after he had displayed great perseverance, prudence, and firm- ness, in overcoming difficulties, which will honour him for ever in the annals of Shoa. After this Treaty had been signed and sealed by his Shoan iMajesty and Her Majesty's Ambassador in Shoa, many douljtful questions with regard to my own situa- tion, as well as that of oiu- Mission, were removed ; and my desire of proceeding to the coast was anew excited in my mind, as the increase of Europeans in the country in general, and of Missionaries in particular, could not now be (jbjected to by his Shoan Majesty, after having 264 PROPOSED ROLTE. agreed in the treaty, " that British subjects should not be prevented nor molested in proceeding to Shoa, in their respective business in the country, and their move- ments over the country and beyond." ^"Miile engaged in thinking of my projected journey to the coast, I received the intelligence, that our Breth- ren had made a second attempt to penetrate into Shoa, but with the same disappointment as before. At the same time, I received news of my own private matters in Germany, which contributed to my undertaking the projected journey. But as the arrangement of my pri- vate matters woidd require time in Em'ope, and as therefore a speedy arrival on the coast was not indis- pensably necessary, I resolved upon taking my road to the coast of Massowah, particularly as many important objects might be attained by so doing. As a matter of great importance appeared to me, the personal acquaint- ance of the new Abuna, the head of the Abyssinian Church. I was also desirous of taking a personal view of the state of things in Tigre ; many favourable re- ports regarding our Mission there having been carried to Shoa. And lastly, I wished to know, whether the road from Shoa to Massowah was not practicable, in case any accident should happen by which the route of Tadjurra might be obstructed. ]My departure from Ankobar was appointed to take place to-day. Having last night prepared the members of my establishment for my approaching departure, by addressing them from the words of our Saviour in DEPARTURE FROxM AXKOBAR. 265 John xiv. — and having recommended^ in fervent prayer, myself, my work, and all my future proceedings, to the almighty care of the God of Israel — I set out from Ankobar about four o^clock in the morning, before many people could assemble to trouble me w-ith vain lamenta- tions, and superstitious prophecies as to the issue of my long journey. But although I endeavoured to leave the capital before the people should be up and hear of my departm'e, yet a considerable body of men pm'sued me as far as the Chacka Mountain, the fatiguing ascent of which prevented them from making any further attempt to overtake me. They returned to Ankobar with great lamentations, and set the whole town in motion with their weeping, as I afterward un- derstood from people who took the trouble to follow me to Angollala. I should have remained to receive the evidence of the public and general feelings of esteem which the inha- bitants of Ankobar seemed to express toward me, had I not been aware, from other occasions of a similar nature, of the impossibility of speaking a word of edification to the excited multitudes ; and had I not been afraid of jealousy rising in the mind of the influential people of Ankobar, who had ne\er before seen a stranger so nmch honoured by their countrymen. Besides, I was well aware of the boisterous manner in which beggars of all kinds would have annoyed and molested me, qua- lifying my grateful feelings in the remembrance of a jjlace, where my Heavenly Father had given me so many N 266 ARRIVE AT ANGOLLALA. proofs of grace and mercy during a residence of three yearSj and from which I humbly hope and beUeve that the seed of everlasting life will be carried to the remote and dark regions of Central Africa. Although I had obtained the King's permission to leave his country, yet I thought it prudent and proper to take leave of him again, and once more to express my acknowledgment of the kindness which I had ex- perienced from his Majesty for three years. As he was at Augollala, his favourite residence, I pro- ceeded to that place, where I arrived about mid-day, my people with the luggage being unable to keep pace with me. I intended to take with me as many copies of the iEthiopic and Amharic Scriptures as I could ; but to my grief I found that my beasts of bui'den could not carry the quantity of books which I had set apart for my journey. It must be remarked, that camels cannot be used in this part of Abyssinia, as the mountainous nature of the country, and its cold temperature, does not agree with an animal which seems to have been created for the particular benefit of plain and hot countries. His Shoan Majesty was informed of my arrival at Angollala by my Baldaraba (Introducer) Ayto Habti, great master of the Tabiban (mechanics), and royal physician in ordinary. His Majesty sent word that he was very busy in making preparations for his approach- ing expedition against the rebellious Galla tribe of INTERVIEW WITH THE KING. 267 Yerrer ; and that he could not give me an audience until to-morrow. March W, 184^2 — Early this morning; my Baldaraba made his appearance, requestingmy immediate attendance at the palace. I found his Majesty talking with his offi- cers in the court-yard. As soon as he observed me, he ordered me to draw near; and took me to the eminence from whence he usually gives judgment, and frequently, also, an audience. Having inquired after my health, he repeated several times, " You should not leave me, my father, as I shall have no adviser when you are away.^' I answered, that the reasons which induced me to leave his country for a short time were very urgent, and partly intended for his owti benefit. — "Well, then,^' he said, " I will not prevent you from going ; but I '^ish you to reflect on every thing that you want for your journey, and communicate to me your wants ; because I ^^'ish you to make youi* journey as agi'eeable and short as possible." I therefore went home, in order to reflect on what I should require from his Majesty ; but I had no sooner retm-ned to my house, than A5i;o Habti appeared again, and informed me that his Majesty had taken a fancy to my beautiful rifle gun, presented to me by Capt. Haines; and that his Majesty had ordered him to express his wish that 1 would leave it with him before I departed. I replied, that I had formerly given several handsome presents to his Majesty, and could not therefore give any more ; that I wanted the gun for myself on my N 2 268 COVETOUSNESS OF THE KING. dangerous journey ; and, besides, I could not part with a present whicli I had received from a friend whom I valued and respected. I hoped that this reply would induce his Majesty to desist from his desire for my rifle ; but far from giving up the matter, he carried it on so long, that I became tired and disgusted, and parted with the beautiful weapon. He sent me a dou- ble-barrel flint gun, but so miserably made that I would not look upon the messenger who brought it. This he requested me to accept instead of the rifle, which, if I should lose on the road, would make him very sorry. I sent word, that the desire of his Majesty for my rifle had made me very sad ; yea, angry with him, at the moment of my leaving his country ; that it was a bad practice, disgracing his name in my countiy, to deprive strangers of the very property which they con- sider most valuable ; and that it would be far better for a stranger not to bring \Adth him any article of vakie to this country, as the people, and especially the king, would immediately deprive him of it by means of daily increasing petitions of the most annoying and unplea- sant kind. This strong language, which I was obhged to use, had an efi"ect, though only of a temporary nature. He sent another messenger, who informed me that the King begged me for Christ's and the GospeFs sake, not to mention in my country that the King of Shoa had endeavoured to deprive me of my property ; and that he had only advised me to leave the gun in his DISTRIBUTION OF SCRIPTURES. 2G9 hands^ lest it might be lost on the road. At the same time the messenger hinted to me, that his Majesty had intended, if I had not left the country, to invest mc with a government. This grant of the royal favom-had been thought by the King as a suitable reward for the services which I had rendered him during three years, particularly since the arrival of the British Em- bassy. I answered, that if his jMajesty intended to honour me by giving me a government, I felt very grateful; but that I did not desire any temporal rank or power in his country, my only object being, of which he was well aware, to do good to himself and his sub- jects, by distributing the Word of God, and by teach- ing them the true and right way to their temporal and eternal happiness. I also said, that I was quite con- tent with the external marks of distinction which the King had abeady given me. He had been pleased to give me the Shoan silver sword, which placed nie in the rank of Governors. I had frequent opportunities in the course of this day of distributing many copies of the Amharic and Ethiopia Scriptures, many Ecclesiastics and other great people having flocked to Angollala to join the King on his expedition against the Yerrer tribe in the south of Shoa. I also again met the messenger of the Abuna to the King of Shoa, who was about returning to Gon- dar with an answer from his ]\Iajesty. I agreed with the messenger, that as soon as I should have taken my final leave of the King, I would hasten my march and 270 FAREWELL VISIT join liim on the road, and go with him to his master at Gondar, for whom he had received a Letter and a few valuable presents from the British Ambassador, as tokens of friendship and respect to the greatest Prelate of Abyssinia. I had also given him a copy of the iEthiopic New Testament, with a letter, which I had written in case I should not be able to go with him. But this scheme of my joining the man was afterward, from many causes, entirely frustrated. All the visitors having withdrawn, I passed the even- ing alone, being engaged in thoughts and reflections on my approaching long and important journey. Know- ing that I was going to countries never before resorted to by Europeans, and thinking that unusual dangers and hardships would be connected with such a journey, I threw myself into the hands of Almighty God, who alone could bring my journey to a happy issue, although 1 was provided with every human means requisite for such a hazardous imdertaking. March 13, 1842 — After day break a signal was given for the departure of his Majesty on his expedition. I therefore had no time to lose in acquainting his Majesty with my wants, and to take final leave of him. On being introduced to him, he repeatedly expressed his regret at my leaving him, as he would then have no one to advise with in his proceedings with the British Embassy. I replied, that I felt grateful for the confi- dence he had placed in me ; and that, please God, I would make haste on my journey, so as to be able to TO THE KING. 271 return in October or November. IVitli regard to the British Embassy, I acUised him to give decided marks of distinction to the Representative of Her Ma- jesty, and to listen to all his requests and counsels, as they would prove most useful and beneficial to him. He then asked about my wants for the jom'ney. I only requested a good strong mule, and a man to in- troduce me to the Governors as far as his influence ex- tended on the road to Gondar. Both requests were immediately granted : whereupon he begged me for a blessing, which I gave him ; praying that God the Almighty King of kings would so dispose his heart, that he might seek, before all, the welfare of his own soul and the souls of his subjects ; and then, that He would inchne him to attempt such temporal improve- ments as might become subservient to the eternal hap- piness of his people. When I had ended, his Majesty said, " Amen ! May God reward you !" I then walked away, and he set off on his expedition. Having returned to my house, I had once more to take leave of those two dear friends whose kindness for more than eight months had rendered my stay in Shoa agreeable. These friends were. His Excellency the British Ambassador, Capt. C. W. Harris, and his assistant officer, Capt. D. Graham. I had taken leave of the other members of the Embassy at Ankobar the day before yesterday. We bid farewell with mutual feelings of gratitude for the kindness and assistance which we had rendered each other in a foreign and uncivilized country. 272 DEBRA BERHAN. Having settled every thing necessary, I set out from Angollala about ten o'clock, moving ENE. toward Debra Berlian, the King's third favourite place of re- sidence, about seven miles distant from Angollala. The road led over a level country, which is peculiar to the territories of the Galla tribes in the south of Shoa, as I have remarked in my former descriptions of the Galla countries. Small hills generally rise at the extremi- ties of these large plains, which are inhabited by im- mense herds of cattle ; while the excellent soil of the hills is used for cultivating such articles as are requisite for the subsistence of man. Debra Berhan received its name at the time of Zara- Jacob, who is also called Constantine, and who reigned over Abyssinia from between a.d. 1430 and 1460. When persecuted by the Adels, he took flight to the large forest at that time existing on the place where the village of Debra Berhan is now built. Being at a loss concerning an outlet for his escape, he saw a light from heaven showing him a path ; and from this occur- ence he called the place Debra Berhan ; i. e. " Hill of light." This fabulous derivation of the name of Debra Ber- han, which was given me by a native, differs some- what from another tradition which was communicated to me by Habta INIichael, his Majesty's principal scribe, who stated, that it was written in the famous book " Taamera Mariam" — Miracles of the Holy Virgin — that, at the time of Zara-Jacob, a blind priest CONTROVERSIES IN THE SHOAN CHURCH. 273 defended the doctrine which denies the same worship to the Virgin as the Son ; that the party of the priests who worshipped Mary as the Son, killed the blind priest ; but in sign of his innocency, and his orthodox belief, a heavenly light had been seen for thirteen days in all the tents of the Emperor and his generals ; and that on this account the place had been denominated " Hill of Kght." As I would not halt at Debra Berhan, I sent my compliments to the Alaca of the Church of the Holy Trinity. I also sent him a copy of the iEthiopic New Testament. He thankfully acknowledged the receipt, and wished me a happy journey. He is one of the principal leaders of the party in Shoa which denies that the human soul has any knowledge in the womb — that the Holy Virgin did not die a victim of mankind, and should not be worshipped like the Son — and that the Son does not praise the Father in His state of ex- altation. These are at present the principal Shoan con- troversies, which ran so high, that his Majesty thought it necessary to interfere, and decide the dispute by his royal authority in favour of those who teach the con- trary, and who prefer their own conceptions to the standard of the Bible. The latter having got the as- cendancy in the Shoan Church, expelled the others from their ecclesiastical functions. These, however, applied to the new Abuna, Abba Salama, who decided in their favour, and ordered the King of Shoa to restore tliem to their office 3 but the King has not yet obeyed, and N 5 274 RIVER BERESA. will delay the matter till he is put by the Abuna to his last resource. Debra Berhau, as I have already stated, is one of the favourite places of the King of Shoa, as the plain land around is suitable to his desire of daily gallopping his favourite horses^ and also for hunting, although there is but little game around. The place answers well, too, for the number of horses, mules, and cattle, which always follow the royal encampments. Debra Berhan was conquered by the father of Sahela Selassieh ; but settled and secured against the inroads of the Gallas by Menelek, which is the family name of Sahela Selas- sieh, this being his Christian name. Debra Berhan contains a few hundred houses, with about a thousand inhabitants. In the south of the village the river Beresa runs to the north-west, forming a terrace of high cataracts, at a distance of about three miles from the village. These cataracts afford one of the most beautiful sights to be seen in Shoa. The river having first run over the cataracts is carried into a deep basin, the banks of which are extremely steep and high. There is plenty of wood around this basin. The wood is royal pri\ilege, and fifty slaves are daily employed in providing wood for his Majesty when he resides at Debra Berhan. About one o'clock we passed a place, called Bollo Workie, where one of the most celebrated markets is held on Saturday. It is particularly suitable for buying horses, donkeys, cattle, and grain, these articles being MARKET OF BOLLO AVORKIE. 275 supplied in abundance by the Galla tribes in the neigh- bourhood of Angollala. But money in coin is not much used in this market, as the Gallas, being content with barter, or at least salt-pieces, which pass as money, still have a great aversion to silver money. A dollar at Bollo Workie is exchanged for sixteen or eighteen pieces of salt ; and consequently for a few pieces less than at the market of Alio Amba in the east of Anko- bar. The King receives considerable sums from the duties paid on articles at the market of Bollo Workie. Each article is charged according to its value ; as, for instance, he who buys a horse, has to pay half a piece of salt to the King. The origin of the name of Bollo Workie is undoub- tedly from the Galla language, in which Bollo means "hole or cave;" and Workie "gold;" conse- quently, " cave of gold." This name agrees with the general belief and tradition of the Shoans, that in the caves at Bollo Workie immense treasm-es of gold have been concealed since the times of the ancient Emperors of Abyssinia. The Shoans also say, that in one of the caves there is a deep lake, which nobody will venture to cross, although the gold is concealed beyond it. In this lake, according to the general belief of the Abys- sinians, devils reside. One day, they say, a splendid mule, oiTiamented with gold, and attended by a cat, came out from the cave ; but soon disappeared. I have no doubt that the market people, who are fond of relating and hearing stories for their amusement on 276 PASTURAGE FOR THE KING's CATTLE. their long journey, have invented this tale. But while the common people have invented this story, the priests, who, as may be expected, are not behind in having their share in all cases of superstition, discovered a Tabot, or Holy Ark, in the cave. It frequently hap- pens that the priests, in order to defend a favourite idea, pretend to have discovered a Holy Ark in a cave in which they have found a piece of parchment, on which the Saint, to whom the Tabot is consecrated, has written that such or such a doctrine shall be ac- cepted or cursed. 'The Abyssinians are never at a loss in contriving lies when it suits their purpose. Bollo Workie, like Debra Berhan, was formerly in possession of the Gallas ; and Tenna Kallo, the Galla Chieftain of this district, is not yet forgotten by the Shoans, who well remember the number of their fa- thers who were killed by Tenna Kallo near Bollo Wor- kie and Debra Berhan. The river Beresa was at the time of Sahela Selassieh's father the real boundary, beyond which the Shoans durst not venture to go, without running the danger of being murdered by the Gallas, although most of the tribes near the Beresa river paid tribute to Shoa ; but the settled boundary was the Beresa, as is now the river Tchatsha in the south of xingollala. Bollo Workie is one of the King's principal pasturages for a part of his numerous cattle, in charge of herdmen which are called Abellam, from the Amharic verb SOURCE OF THE GONAGONIT. 277 Abella — " he made eat up." His INIajesty has selected about twenty or thirty places of this kind in his king- dom. He sends to these places all the cattle which he receives as tribute, or captm-es on his expeditions against the Gallas. Such places as are known to me, are — Bollo Workie, Kollo-Berat, Sagalla, Tello- agger, Dembaro, Tchcraro, Gosh-meda, Wof-washa, Tora-mesk, Kamberrie, Mutti, Gogorre, Sankisa, Enghcrma, Dodotie, Arab-ledj, and Saramba. About three o'clock we passed a rivulet called Gona- gonit, which rises at the foot of the mountain "Wof- washa, which is a part of a range of movmtains run- ning from south and south-east, to north and north-east. It begins in Bulga, and - runs through the east of Shoa, Worra Kallo, Ambassel, Yechoo, Lasta, as far as Semien. From the point where we crossed the Gonagonit, we could look do^^^l into a basin of a tremendous depth, like that which I have mentioned near Debra Berhan. The Gonagonit forms a cataract of about 160 feet, falling into this basin, which sends its water to the river Adabui, and then runs to the Nile. I have generally observed that the rivulets rising in the east of the Shoan moun- tains form a high cataract at a certain distance from their sources. It cannot be otherwise, because the range of mountains on which these rivulets have their gene- ral and principal springs is abo\it 9000 or 10,000 feet above the sea ; while the Nile, in the west of Shoa, may be elevated about -1000 feet. Now, as the dis- 278 THE CHASM OF TEGULET-WAT. tance between the source and mouth of these rivers is only about 180 miles, it is clear that they must have a sudden fall at certain points, where nature has produced other interesting appearances. Then you observe from the point of the cataract, high and steep banks of the river for a considerable distance and extent. It is a striking fact, that these cataracts, and this deep basin-like course of the rivers, are to be observed toward Tegulet, the centre of Shoa, where geology might be led to interesting inquiries and results. Having crossed the Gonagonit, I was conducted by my people to a place where they said that the ocean could be seen. When I drew near this curious spot, I was not a little struck at observing a chasm of the earth, about 200 yards in length, and three feet in breadth. The depth must be enormous, as I could not hear the noise of stones which I threw down. It is natural that the Abyssinians should point to this place as the residence of evil spirits, as it is indeed a curious one ; but probably there is more truth in the report which states, that one day when the Amharas persecuted the Gallas, they being unacquainted ^^dth the dangerous localities, fell into the chasm and perished in great numbers. I believe this may be a fact, as the spot does not appear on its surface to be particularly dangerous; so that you might approach without any apprehension till you fell into the depth between the rocks. The place allows a small entrance COUNTRY AROUND TEGULET. 279 in the north ; but people say that the path is soon lost iu the subteiTaneous water. Happily, the general road is a little distant from this dangerous spot, or else it might prove fatal to many people, especially at night. The place is called Tegulet-Wat, which means — the devouring depth of Tegidet. Soon after we had crossed the Gonagonit, we crossed another rivulet called Logheita, where we had a beau- tiful view of the hill on which Tegulet, the former capital, was built. There is now a ^^llage called Etteghe, where I was told, there is such a distant view, that the place became an Abyssinian proverb, the people saying in an Amharic rhyme : " Etteghe Gondar taioo Echeghue," which means : At Etteghe is the Echeghue seen at Gondar. It has already been mentioned, that the nature of the countiy around Tcgulet, which is also the name for the whole district or province around, is of a very particular kind, forming numerous toiTcnts, with steep and high banks, and allowing only a few accessible roads for men and animals in ascending the hills, which are separated from each other by these tremendous toirents. Having taken in view this natural con- dition of the country, we can understand why the continual efforts of the numerous Galla cavalry, and those of the Mahomedans of Adel, were always dis- appointed in taking that part of Shoa, and why the Christian name could not be exterminated by their ferocious hordes. 280 ARRIVE AT LOGHEITA. About four o'clock we arrived at a village, called Logheita, where we intended to pass the night in the house of the Checka-shum, Governor of the soil or ground, as he is called in the system of Shoan adminis- tration. He received me well, having frequently heard of me from people of Ankohar. Checka-shum, pro- perly speaking, means overseer of the soil or ground. He is appointed by the Misleni, or vice-Governor of a province, and he must collect the tribute which a village owes to the Governor of the pro\dnce. Under the Checka-shum is the Amba-llas, who merely ex- ecutes the orders of his superior. For instance, if a great stranger is quartered in the village, he collects the quantity of pro\'isions from the villagers at the order of the Checka-shum, which is only then the case if the stranger is accompanied or conducted by a royal servant, called Afero. If you have such a servant with you, the Governors must receive you, and provide for your daily wants. Of course, the advan- tage is always on the part of the Checka-shum, as he can order such a quantity of provisions, that not only the stranger, but also his whole household vnll be supported for many days. Besides, he always expects a present from the stranger. Having travelled for three years almost over the whole kingdom of Shoa, I must express my entire dissatisfaction with this custom. In the* first place, it exposes you, in a great measure, to the beggaries of the Superior of the village, who will endeavour by DUTIES OF THE CHECKA-SIIUM. 281 some means or other to obtain from you as large a pre- sent as he can ; and, in the second place, the inhabi- tants, who have no share in the present, will become disaffected toward the stranger, who eats his bread at their expense. In my opinion, it would be better if his Majesty ordered his Governors to assist a stranger only in providing his own wants at the usual rate of the country, because there is no advantage for the tra- veller, as he must give presents which exceed the value of what the villagers have given him. The Checka-shum holds his situation for one year only. He pays no tribute during that time ; but collects only the tribute of his village. In like manner, he is exempted from contributing in the second year of his rest, as it is called ; but in the third year he must pay like all other \dllager3. The inhabitants give him a dinner on every great festival, besides which he receives his share on all occasions of great display and entertainments. He orders the people to plough, build, gather the harvest, &c. He pays twenty pieces of rock-salt (equal to one dollar in Shoa) to the Gover- nor who appoints him at the rcqviest and choice of tlie villagers. The village of Logheita — the whole district around has the same name — has been so called from Logo, a former Chief of the Gallas, who had been in the pos- session of this fertile district, till Asfa-Woossen, grandfather of the present King, had conquered and settled it. Sahela Selassieh has granted the revenues 283 MONASTERY OF ST. ABBO. of this village to the Alaca Amda-Tzion, who is the superior of the convent at Meedak (not far from Ankobar to the south-west), and who instructed and guarded one of the royal princes. In the neighbourhood of the west of the village of Logheita is a monastery, consecrated to one of the most celebrated Abyssinian Saints, St. Abbo, whose anniversary will be to-morrow. This cloister was established when the district was still in the hands of the Gallas, of whom many were converted to Chris- tianity by the friars of the convent ; but this conver- sion was of a very superficial nature. Tlie Gallas were circumcised, baptized, obliged to fast, and to wear a string of silk around their necks in sign of separation from Mahomedans and Pagans. March 13, 1842 — Before starting I had a conversation with the people, who assembled around my tent imme- diately after day-break, on the principal topics of the Holy Scriptui'cs. I also distributed a few copies of the Amharic and iEthiopic New Testament to the priests of the village, and to the monks of St. Abbo. About seven o'clock we left Logheita in the direc- tion NNE. I could not refrain from looking back once more on the fertile district of Logheita, this being a Bala-Maseno ; i. e. a country which can be watered by channels which the inhabitants have made in their fields to water them during the dry season. Irrigation is not uncommon in Abyssinia. They CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST. 283 of course increase the value of the laud with its pro- prietor. About eight o^clock we travelled through the dis- trict Hoolat-Dech (two doors), which name alludes to the two gates or principal ways which you can take in going to Zalla-Dengai and the provinces beyond. The district of Hoolat-Dech is very rocky and hilly. On the left of our road was Negarit-Bar, a small lake at the foot of hills. The name of the lake is taken from the Amharic " Negarit," which signifies a drum, as the Shoans superstitiously believe that evil spirits have been heard beating a drum in this lake. A priest of a neighbouring village, who accompanied me for a considerable distance on the road, led the con- versation to this subject. He asserted that lakes are the general assembling places of evil spirits. I said, that he was not right according to the Scriptures in placing evil spirits in lakes, as hell fire was stated as the place of devils and all sinful creatures. Their residence, I said, in lakes on earth would afford them a considerable degree of ease and rest from the tor- ments which God in His justice had sent upon them on account of their transgressions — that Mark v. 13, on which passage his opinion was founded, had a particu- lar purpose, from which we are not entitled to draw the conclusion that unclean spirits reside in lakes — that unclean spirits, according to the Scriptiircs, have only two places of residence ; namely, in hell fire, and in the hu- man heart; and therefore, instead of searchingaftcrtheevil 284 RIVER GOODO-BERAT. spirits in lakes, wc should do better if we inquired after their residence in the very centre of our thoughts, words, and deeds — and that it would be better if we were to draw near our Saviour in humble prayer and faith, and beg Him to cast out the unclean spirits of oui" lusts and worldly desires, lest they should lead us to that hell fire which burns from all eternity. Finally, I admonished the ignorant priest to read the pure Word of God contained in the Old and New Testament, to imprint it on his mind in prayer and faith, and then to teach it to his countrymen. About nine o'clock we crossed the river Goodo- Berat, which rises in the famous range of mountains which I have before mentioned. It runs to the river Adabui in the west, to which river forty-four rivulets are said to pay their tribute of water. But this is evidently an imitation of the number of the forty-four Churches of Gondar. In the same manner the Shoans say, that in proceeding from the coast of Massowah forty-four rivers must be crossed before you reach Shoa. If we count every rivulet, I should think that this account would come short of the number of rivers. The river Goodo-Berat has its name from a powerful Galla Chieftain, who, in connexion with Amdich, Mei'kurri, Woldab, and other less influential Chiefs, had taken possession of the countries around, after Gragne had desolated this territory. On enquiring about what the people knew of the origin of the Gallas, I learned that three sons of a ORIGIN OF THE GALLAS. 285 man, whose name they could not tell mc, had given rise to all the Galla tribes around Shoa. One of these sons, Karaioo, took possession of the country in the east of the before mentioned range of mountains ; and also possessed himself of Tarmabar, a principal peak of this mountain range. Hence the descendants of Karaioo, who were then divided into several other tribes, possessed all the countries in the east and north-east of x\nkobar as far as the territories of the Adels, or Danakils. They consequently possessed the lower countries, which are comprised under the general name of Argobba, in the east of Efat. It is a fact, that to this day a tribe called Karaioo, still exists in the south-east of Ankobar. Another son, called Toolom, went over the range and possessed himself of all the countries in the west to the river Hawash in the south, and to the Nile in the west. The third son, called Wollo, conquered the countries in the north of Shoa, and became the general Chief of the seven houses of the Wollo Gallas, of whom I shall speak in the course of my journal. About twelve o'clock we passed through the district called Beshkatie ; i. e. It disgusts me. The origin of this strange name is stated as follows : — A Governor, called Tofich, brought such an abundance of honey as tribute to the King Asfa-Woossen, grandfather of Sahela Sclassieh, that the King exclaimed, "The abundance of honey which that district ])roduccs dis- gusts mc," or more verbally, " stinks before me." 286 MONASTERY OP MASKALIE GHEDAM. The road of Beshkatie led us to the district of Rodas, which received its name from one of the eight sons of Ali, a Mahomedan, who took possession of the country around at the time of Gragne, in whose in- terest it was to introduce people of his religion into the country. When Ali died, his eight sons, of whom Rodas, Sadekas, and Jonas, particularly distinguished themselves, possessed the district till they were all killed by the intruding Gallas, who availed themselves of the desolation which Gragne had caused in Abyssinia ; a circumstance which reminds us of Joel i. 4. That ivhich the palmer loorm hath left, hath the locust eaten, S^c. Oui- road then led us to Maskalie Ghedam which means, " My cross is a convent." Though the monas- tery was close to the way side, yet I had no time to halt and take leave of Alaca Woldab, who has been a friend of mine for some time. However, I sent him a copy of the ^thiopic New Testament, for which he had expressed a desire whenever he had seen me at Ankobar. He is one of those Ecclesiastics who use the Amharic Bible in teaching their pupils. Tlie reason why I could not halt was, because I had no time to lose, as I wished before evening to reach Zalla- Dengai, where the Queen-Dowager resides. A travel- ler in Abyssinia must always bear in mind, that he must arrive in due time at the Governors with whom he intends to pass the night, in order that the requi- site preparations may be made before night fall. An PROVINCE OF MANS. 287 error of this kind is always blamed by the people, and it puts the traveller, as well as his host, to great incon- veniences, as the villagers not being aware in due time of the arrival of a stranger, are therefore unprepared. In general, the Abyssinians have a dislike against all night-work, as they go early to bed, in order to get up before or at day -break. The nearer we approached Zalla-Dengai, the more the large and plain province of Mans was presented to om- view. The people of Mans, of whom I shall speak more fully afterward, have the character of being- brave, daring, and ignorant — a character which seems to me to have been given them with some reason, as I shall state hereafter. They are principally engaged in breeding sheep, the colour of which is very dark ; a circumstance which shows that the pro- vince of ]\Ians must be high land, as the black hair protects the sheep better against the cold. The Man- sians use this black wool for weaving cloth, which they call Sekdat ; and it must be remarked, that this kind of di'css at once distinguishes a Mansian from the other Shoans, who wear clothes woven of cotton, which is cultivated in large quantities in the lower countries, and which is generally of a good and silky quality. Upon inquiring after the boundaries and extent of Mans, I had the satisfaction of being led to a result which I could never obtain before, although I had for the last three years inquired on every opportunity about 288 NOTICES OF THE VARIOUS the geographical division of the different provinces of the kingdom of Shoa. It may therefore be imagined how much I was dehghtcd with obtaining information on a subject which had puzzled me for several years, and which is so important in sketching a correct map of the country. I will state what I have learned from good authority. 1. The most southern province of Shoa, inhabited chiefly by Christians, is the province of Menchar. Its noi'thern boundary is the river Kassam, and its southern frontier is Mount Bokan. Menchar is on the way to the Hawash in the south, and to the countries of Gurague, Cambat, and Sentshiro. 2. The province of Bulga (Bidga and Menchar together were formerly called Fatagar) is bordered, on the south, by the river Kassam ; and on the north by the river Kabani, which runs to the Adel country to- ward the Hawash. 3. The province of Efat begins with the northern banks of the river Kabani, and extends as far as the river Robi, which rises in the Tarmabar range of moun- tains, and runs to the Adel country. 4. In the north of the river Robi begins the pro- vince of Gheddem, which is bounded by the province of Efrata in the north. Efrata is bordered on the north by the river Berkona, which separates the Shoan dominions from those of the Mahomedan ruler of AVorra Kallo and Argobba. It must be remarked, that this is another Argobba, not belonging to tJie King of PROVINCES OF SHOA. 289 Slioa. The name " Argobba '' is given by the Adds to all the lower countries where cotton is cultivated. Thus you hear of an Argobba belonging to Sahela Selassieh, and another belonging to the ruler of Worra Kallo. It must also be remarked, that the Adels generally call the King of Shoa only King of Efat, as this pro^^nce is bounded by their own country ; while the people of jSTorthern Abyssinia call him the King of Shoa, this being nearer to them. In like manner, the Gallas in the south always call him the King of Efat, as the Shoan power undertook its first military opera- tions against the southern tribes by starting from Efat ; and as in fact most of the Shoan forces which fight against the Gallas are composed of Efatian soldiers. These remarks will preserve the Geographer from con- founding what is so clear, if he has compared the different reports of the natives of the country, and the countries around. 5. The pro\TLnce of Tegulet has its boundary from the river Beresa, near Debra Berhan, and from the river Tchatcha, near Angollala, and extends to the river j\Iofer in the north. This province forms the principal part of Shoa, and is situated exactly in the centre of the whole Shoan kingdom. 6. The province of Mans begins with the river Mofer in the north of Tegulet, and extends as far as the river Katchenee in the north. 7. With the Katchenee river begins the province of Geshe, which is bounded in the north by the river o ,290 ARRIVE AT ZALLA-DENGAI. Woait^ which separates the Shoan dominions in the north-west from the different Wollo Galla tribes. 8. Between Shoa Meda and the river Jamma in the south-west is the province of Morat ; and between the rivers Jamma and Wonshit is the province of ]\Iora- bietie in the north-west. 9. Shoa Meda is a plain or level country of con- siderable extent ; but it is possessed by tributary pagan Gallas, many villages of whom however have been lately converted to Christianity by the orders of the King of Shoa, who commanded them to be circum- cised, to be baptized, to fast, to wear a string of silk around the neck, and not to eat with Mahomedans or Pagans. All the country from Shoa to the H awash in the south is inhabited by Pagan Gallas, of whom I have given a description in my former journals. They are all subjected to the sway of Shoa. The Mahomedans, who are under the Government of Shoa, reside in the eastern parts of the kingdom, in Argobba, toward the Adel country. After four o'clock we arrived at Zalla-Dengai, where Zenama-Work, the mother of Sahela Selassieh, resides. . Before we reached the place, I saw on the road a hill, on which I was told that the present King was edu- cated and guarded by the Alaca Woldab, who is not to be confounded with the same name mentioned before. It is a pretty little square hill, on which his royal highness had a beautiful \iew of the country around. HOSPITALITY OF ZEXA]\IA-WORK. 291 and on which many ideas and future schemes may have been raised and planned in his mind. On arriving at the foot of the hill on which the houses of Zenama-Workj the Queen-Dowager, are built, we were stopt a few minutes and asked who we were, and from whence we had come. Having given a satisfactory answer to these questions, we were permitted to walk up the hill, when the gates of the outer wall were immediately opened. Having reached the outside of the court-yard, I was ordered by the Dech-agafari — the introducer through the gates — to sit dovra on a red skin which had been spread out be- fore me. A messenger was then dispatched with my compliments to the royal lady, who as soon as she heard of my arrival, sent word that she would be glad to sec the man of whom she had heard much for several years; but that, as it was already late, she could not see me then, but would call me to-morrow morning. I was then conducted to a house, which I was to occupy during my stay at Zalla-Dengai. But I preferred to pitch my tent for many reasons. Two large pitchers of hydromel, two jars of beer, a sheep, fowls, eggs, bread, a jar of honey, and many other things were then presented in such an abundance, that I was obliged to send back the greater part of them, lest my })cople should commit any excess in enjoying the hospitality of our hostess. Servants were also sent and ordered to attend and provide me with whatever I should require. March 1 1, 18 12 — Having expressed my wish to depart o 2 292 INTERVIEW WITH early, I was called by the Queeu-Dowager to see her, and at the same time to bid her farewell. I wore my European di'ess and the silver sword which her royal son had given me with the request to wear it on all occasions of state. I was introduced through fom- or five gates, till the Dech-agafari at last conducted me to a small but nice looking room, in which the old lady was sitting on a bedstead covered wdth a carpet of dif- ferent coloui's. A great number of female servants, mostly slave girls, stood on the left and right of the lady ; while her male servants, priests, and counsellors, stood at some distance from her. The attendants of both sexes were well dressed ; and when I entered they talked with their mistress in a familiar and easy manner. The lady wore a large white Abyssinian dress, with very few other marks of distinction. Though about sixty years of age, she still appeared young and lively; and although she is, except her royal son, the most influen- tial person in the kingdom, and governs nearly the half of Shoa in a very independent manner, yet she shows less of the stiffness observable in other Abys- sinian ladies of a much inferior rank. She appears to be a person of high attainments, in the Abyssinian manner, and quite qualified for the situation which she holds in the Shoan affaii's, and seems to deserve the attachment and respect which her subjects as well as her royal son himself pay to her. Having paid my respects to her, I presented her with a few presents, consisting of a coloured shawl, a pair THE QUEEX-DOWAGER. 293 of English scissors, a looking-glass, and a copy of the ^thiopic New Testament and Amharic Old Testament. She was extremely grateful, and several times repeated, " May God reward you ! " She was particularly pleased with the Holy Scriptures; and although the other things attracted her attention, yet the Word of God seemed to afford her the greatest satisfaction. I had heard at Ankobar that she had bought many of the books which I had given the people, and that she had distributed them to her priests. From what I have seen, this report may be quite correct. She had several times intended to enter a nunneiy, partly from religious motives, and partly from weariness of her temporal business. 3Iay she find, under the Divine assistance, in the "Word of God, the true way to her eternal welfare and hai)piness ! Having accepted my little presents, she expressed her satisfaction at having become acquainted with the man of whom she had heard much for the last three years. She then asked why I was leaving the country; whether I should return to Shoa ; and whether those gentlemen, who had lately brought such valuable pre- sents to her son, belonged to my nation. She also asked, by what means my countrjTnen had advanced so far in manufacturing the most wonderful things. I replied, that God had said in His Word, Them that honour me I will honour ; and that if we like His holy Word, He will not only give us spiritual and eternal blessings for our souls, but will also give us wisdom and 294 ORIGIN OF THE NAME ZALLA-DENGAI. understanding m temporal affairs, according to the promise of our Saviour, Matt. vi. 33. She then resumed the matter of the presents which Her Majesty had sent to the King of Shoa. She ex- claimed more than once : " What astonishing things have we seen in the time of Sahela Selassieh ! For- merly, we only heard of these things and of your White people; but now we have seen with our eyes and believe what we were told.^^ I said, that they would see still more astonishing things if Sahela Selassieh, following the example of the enlightened Sovereigns of the White people, would go on in improving the moral and tem- poral condition of his subjects. Having already laid claim too long to the time of the royal lady, I thought it proper to discontinue the con- versation. Thanking her for the attention and hospi- tality with which I had been honoured since my arrival, I left the room, when she wished me a happy journey, and promised to send one of her servants with me, to introduce me to Ayto Habta Michael, the Governor of Geshe, on the northern frontier of Shoa. I had now been in the zenith of honour, happiness, and external abundance ; but on leaving Zalla-Dengai I had to con- tend with many difficulties and dangers, as will be seen in the course of my journey. The origin of the name Zalla-Dengai is reported in the following manner. — Formerly there was a large stone on the top of the hill where Zenama-Work resides. Bad people were sitting one day on the stone, engaged in THE queen-dowager's ESTABLISHMENT. 295 telling lies, and in contmdng tricks against their fellow- creatui'es ; when, on a sudden, the stone moved and rolled down into the deep torrent, which runs in the east of Zalla-Dengai toward the river Mofer. The people were killed; and that others should take their example for a warning, the place was called Zalla-Dengai, which means verbally " the jumping stone." My former way of WTiting Selat Dengai would imply the meaning " sharp stone," and must therefore be corrected, I felt an intense coldness at Zalla-Dengai, and the lady several times asked me whether it was so cold in my country. The whole establishment of Zenama- Work is arranged according to the model of the King, only on a smaller scale. Her house is surrounded with several walls, and you have to walk through many gates. In the centre is a court-j^ard, which however is not equal in extent to that at Ankobar. In the eastern fi'ont of this com*t-yard is a place of eminence, where the lady gives judgment to her subjects, as Sahcla Selassieh does at Ankobar. Another large room has been selected as the dining-room for her governors and soldiers. The superiority of her son consists in the following. — Each subject of Zenama-Work can apply to the King for justice, if her decision does not give satisfaction. She appoints her own governors ; but always with the ratifi- cation or approbation of his Majesty. She never un- dertakes an expedition ; but she is bound to send a contingent to the royal army. She must always keep her son in good humour, by sending presents from time 296 INFLUENCE OF THE QUEEN-DOWAGER. to time, particularly of such articles as please him ; in return for which he sends her other pleasing things. Zenama-Work has great influence with her son, and she has sometimes ventured either to dissuade him from an undertaking, or to counteract his schemes, without having been resented by the despotic Monarch. She often intercedes with him for persons who have been disgi-aced by his Majesty, who esteems her so much, that he fi-equently swears by her name ; and when he appears before her, he takes off his cloth to the loins, just as his subjects do when they appear in his presence. His Majesty is well aware of the great advantages afforded to him by the female government and influence of his mother. She is a native of the province of Mans, and is the daughter of one of the former inde- pendent rulers of that countiy. On this account, the Mansians are more attached to her than to the King himself, whom they scarcely know and acknowledge. The Mansians being an obstinate set of people, would cause many distm'bances to his Majesty, if he could not govern them through his mother. Besides, he finds it convenient to throw every thing on his mother, who sometimes dissuades or encom'ages him either to leave off an undertaking, or to execute a scheme. Fur- thermore, it is pecuhar to the Abyssinian character to act through a mediator or intercessor. The greater the power and rank of the person is, the greater his mediator must be. I have frequently heard in Shoa, that the people compared Zenama- DEPARTURE FROM ZALLA-DEXGAI. 297 Work, the Queen-Dowager, with the Holy Virgin, who is on the same terms with Christ, her son, on which Zenama-Work is mth her son, Sahela Selas- sieh. The village of Zalla-Dengai is not very large, and probably contains only the thii-d part of the houses and inhabitants of Ankobar. The hill presents an exten- sive and pretty view of the countries around, which are well cultivated, particularly with barley ; but the north and east of Zalla-Dengai presents a rocky and fertile appearance for several miles. Having retm-ned from my visit to Zenama-Work, I distributed a few copies of Amharic and ^thiopic Scriptui-es, and about eight o'clock a.m. we left Zalla- Dengai, We descended considerably for about half an horn-, leaving to oui- left Koorra-Gadel, which is an ex- tremely steep hill. I was told that Sahela Selassieh had been instructed there for some time in the chiu'ch of the Holy Trinity, which is built on the top ; and hence his Majesty has taken the habit of swearing by the Church of the Holy Trinity in Koorra-Gadel. If he has once sworn by that place, no alteration of the royal mind can be expected in whatever matter it may be. To the east we had the hill and district of Wodera, the produce of which is divided between the King and his mothtr, she taking the wood, which is very rare around Zalla-Dengai, and the King claiming the grass places for his cattle. Wodera and the country around was formerly in the hands of three Galla Chieftains; viz. O 5 398 THE RIVER MOFER. Hamte^ Berre^ and HoolosfFe, until the Efatian Kings Ymmaha-Yasoos and Asfa-Woosseu turned them out of their possessions. Hamte displayed such bravery in war, that Asfa-Woosen himself respected him. About ten o'clock we crossed the river Mofer on its junction with a torrent called Kaskash, which rises at the foot of Wof-Washa. The latter is the name of a part of the range of mountains which I have several times mentioned. The water of the river Mofer comes from Gooasa, which is a part of the Tarmabar range. The river IMofer runs in a westerly direction, and joins the river Jamma, which falls into the Adabai, and this into the Nile. The Mofer separates the provinces of Tegulet and Mans, as above stated. It is about twenty- five feet in breadth at the place where I crossed it. Its banks are extremely steep, according to the general nature of the Abyssinian rivers and rivulets. It carries water to the Jamma during the whole year, and receives many tributary rivulets. Having crossed the Mofer, we had to ascend for a con- siderable time. The ascent was so steep and rocky, that we were compelled to unload our animals, and the men carried the baggage on their shoulders for some distance. Having reached the top, we saw before us an immense plain, intersected only by small hills. We had a beau- tiful view of the countries which we had traversed the preceding days. But we found the Mansian climate very cold ; and the wind also blew strongly from the east. Our general direction was south-south-west, SUBJECTION OF MANS TO THE KING OF SHOA. 299 sometimes entii'ely north. The cold cHmate of Mans renders the black cloth made of wool indispensably necessary. Mans is the largest pro\ince of the Shoan domini- ons ; but the Mansians endeavoiu* by all means to keep up their independence of old. They pay, how- ever, great respect to the Queen-Dowager, who consi- ders theii' country her hereditary government. The Mansians pay very little tribute to the Shoan crown. I was told that ten families only pay the tribute of one sheep in the course of a year. The principal tribute which is required from Mans, consists in providing Sekdat, or black cloth, which I have mentioned before, for the royal wants. His ^lajesty uses this black stuiF for his tents, or for charity to poor people. INlans was entirely independent of Shoa at the time of Ghera, who governed Mans, when Negassi, the first Shoan King, made himself independent of the Go- vernment of Gondar. The son of Ghera was Kedami, who had a son called Hiskias. He had a son called Gole, who was engaged in war with Abie, the King of Efat. Gole was defeated, and Mans became connected with the kingdom of Shoa. The daughter of Gole was Wolansa, the mother of Zenama-Work, who is the mother of the present King of Shoa. Hence the attachment which the Mansians entertain toward the Queen Dowager. • The province of Mans is divided into three parts : Mamma, Lalo, and Ghera. Each part has its own 300 CHx\RACTER OF Governor ; but I shall speak of this hereafter. At present I will only mention the genealogies of those rulers who formerly possessed independent provinces and governments, until they were united to the Shoan Sovereignty. 1. Demetrios was the ruler of the province of Morabietie. He was succeeded by his son Woldoo, whose son was Dechen. At the time of Dechcn the province of Morabietie was united to Shoa. The daughter of Dechen is Besabesh, the present head-wife or queen. 2. Masamer governed the province of Morat. He was succeeded by his son Esaias, whose son was Abisa. The son of Abisa was Tzeddoo, whose son was Hailoo. At his time Morat was conquered by Asfa-Woossen. Sahela Selassieh has left the issue of these little kings in the possession of their paternal and hereditary go- vernment. He was content A^dth their acknowledg- ment of his royal superiority, and with an annual tri- bute ; but his Majesty has lately abrogated this here- ditary system in Morat in consequence of a fault which Ay to Shunkor, a descendant of the old family, had com- mitted against him. Most probably the judicious monarch only waits for an opportunity of doing away with all hereditary governments in his kingdom. 3. The hereditary Galla Governors in Shoa Meda are: Ero; Tooloo.his son; andWodach, at present Ayto Organon, who is in great favom* with his IMajesty. He turned a Christian a few years ago, the King himself THE MANSIANS. 301 being his godfather, as is usual when influential Gallas adopt Christianity. 4. In the province of Geshe ruled the descendants of Ausabie. 5. In Gheddem ruled the issue of Yelala and Boroo ; in Anzokia, the children of Sarnie ; and in Efrata the children of Waldo Gucbru. Only in the province of Boolga no lineal succession was kept up, nor had his Majesty any regard for the issue of former influential families in his appointing the Governors of Bulga. It is considered as the country which the Efatian Kings have taken with their shield or military forces. The Mansians have the character of being brave, quarrelsome, inhospitable, ignorant, and haughty. This character is pretty correct and true. With regard to their bravery, I cannot judge from my own experience ; but I am told, that, when Ayto Medoko, a very brave Efatian Governor, had raised a rebellion against his Majesty about five years ago, and the King was in great distress, he sent a message to the Mansians, saying, — " My brothers, my relations, come and help me," the INIansians appeared in great num- bers and decided the royal victory over the rebel. But this was the first time that they went on an expedition with the King. Those who go annually to war with his Majesty are merely volunteers, and are not numer- ous. Concerning the quarrelsomeness of the Mansians, it must be stated, that as no strong royal hand is able to 302 CHARACTER OF govern them^ every trifle causes them to be at variance with each other. A little affront^ or a small matter that happens on account of the boundaries of their fields, raises such animosities between them, that they draw their swords and kill one another. These continual contests and then- self-interestedness, prevent them from hvdng together in one village. Each individual, or several families being the issue of a great man, build their houses, wherever they find convenient for the sake of their property, or for the purpose of more easily watching their fields. On this account therefore you do not see large villages in Mans. They do not fight against a common and general enemy, but only against each other ; and therefore they say, " We will not fight against the Gallas, who do us no harm ; but we fight among ourselves." On this account they refuse to go on the King's annual expeditions against the southern Gallas. It has fi'equently happened, that they have killed their own governors, or that they have imprisoned or insulted them, if they ventured to restrain theii' independence and spirit of liberty. His Majesty cares little for this, as he dare not ventm-e to in- crease their dissatisfaction with him. Occasionally he bums the houses of the most obstinate people ; but this will not always answer. In short, his power and influence in that part of his dominions is very limited and loose. The Mansians openly declare, " We know little about Sahela Selassieh." Nobody would venture to say so in Efat. His Majesty well aware of his THE MAXSIAXS. 303 little influence in ]Mans, endeavours to cover his weak- nessj by saving that he does not require much from the JNIansians, as they are his relations, his mother being a Mansian, as we have seen above. AVith respect to the inhospitability of the Mansians, I can judge from my own experience. Although I had a man from the King, and another from Zenama-Work with me ; and although I offered money and pajTiient, yet the pettiest Governor of a hamlet would not allow me to pass the night in his house, nor pro\-ide me with what I wanted. He knew that I had royal messengers with me ; but he would not Hsten to them, when they requested provisions in the name of the King and Zenama-AVork. The Mansians are very ignorant, and on this account have become a proverb on the market-place of Bollo- Workie. The Gallas say : " ^lansie our Gashie ;" that is to say, the 'Nlansian is a blind buyer ; he does not look whether the salt-piece is good or bad; whether the bullock which he purchases is useful and good for him or not. It must be observed, that they have no im- portant market-place in their own pro\T.nce, as their unprincipled life would raise bloody quarrels on such opportunities; and therefore they must go to the markets of Bollo-Workie and Geshe. The learned Mansians are chiefly engaged in using witchcraft, and are therefore feared wherever they go. They pretend to be able to charm spirits from the water. They say that the Alaca of the evil spirits is in the lake Alobar, which is in Mans. 304 SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS OF MANS. These and many other things show that the Mansians must be an ignorant people; and that the other Shoans^ who call them cows and donkeys on account of their ignorance, are nearly right, if they themselves would only be better and superior in knowledge and morality. About three o'clock we crossed the river Goormengne, which runs to the Adabai in the west ; and about half- past three we passed the river Sanafil-asfach. The meaning of this strange name, which only the Man- sians could give, is verbally — He caused the breeches to be destroyed. The soil of Mans is chiefly black, and principally produces barley, wheat, peas, hog's beans, &c. Sheep are in abundance, and can be bought for two or three pieces of salt. Cotton and pepper cannot be cultivated in Mans, being too high and cold a country. \Vlien the eastern winds blow over the country, it is so cold that you can scarcely believe that you are in the interior of Africa. Notmthstanding this cold climate, the fea- tures of the Mansians are of a pretty dark, yea, black colour. In fact, every thing of theirs is black, as their soil, clothes, sheep, cattle, and, above all, their quarrel- some mind. They have a great aversion to the white clothes of cotton, of which the other Shoans are so fond. They use white clothes only as a covering at night, or on occasions of state. \^Tien a Mansian dies, his white clothes are claimed by the priests, who consider themselves the legitimate heirs in this respect. As wood in Mans is very rare, they build their houses CROSS THE RIVER RETMAT. 305 of stones, at least the walls. Tlie interior construction of tbeir houses does not look so bad as one would sup- pose from the outside appearance of the building. The outward shape of their houses is circular, like that of the houses of the other Shoans. After four o'clock I pitched my tent in a "hamlet, called Wokan, in the court-yard of a petty Governor, of whom I have made mention above. As I found the people so ill disposed toward travellers, I ordered my senants to stand sentiy by turns during the night. But, above all, I bowed my knees before the almighty Shepherd of Israel, who never sleeps nor slumbers, and implored His assistance, protection, and blessing upon my journey. March 15, 1842 — The priest of our host came after day-break to beg from me a copy of the iEthiopic New Testament, which I gave him. He had yesterday spoken to the Governor in our favoui*, and had provided us ^N^ith a few provisions. I also presented to him a copy of the Heidelberg Catechism in Amharic. As he could not at first understand what sort of book this was, I availed myself of the delay of our departui'e — caused by the intense coldness — to give him verbal ex- planations. In a short time many people were assembled around us. We left Wokan after seven o'clock, and about half- past seven crossed the river Rctmat, which is about twelve feet in breadth. It has steep banks, and our animals could only cross it with difficulty. Its source 306 SOURCE OF THE RIVER RETMAT. is in the Gooasa range of mountains in the east. It had very little water at the present dry season. This river separates the district of Mamma from that of Lab, on which we had now entered. The western bomidary of the district Mamma is the river Adabai, and the* eastern frontier is Kaot. The present Gover- nor of Mamma is Ayto Gadeloo, to whom the King has married one of his numerous daughters. The dis- trict of Lalo is bounded in the north by the river Aftanat, in the west by the province of Morabietie, and on the east by Gheddem. It is divided into Lalo and Igam. The people of both districts are in perpetual feu.ds with each other ; and last year in an engagement about thirty men were killed on both sides. Lalo is not so plain as the district of Mamma, which we traversed yesterday. Money in coin is but little known in Mans, as the IMansians say, " We do not heap up dollars as the Efatians do: we heap up salt-pieces and ploughs, which we bmy." The more a man has of buried plough-shares, the richer he appears in the eyes of his coimtrymen. The Mansians seldom appear with spears on the road, instead of which they use big sticks on their jom-ney ; and with these they beat on soundly, when they dispute on the road. About nine o'clock we crossed the river Igam, which had however but little water at this season. I was struck at observing all the houses built at the foot of steep hills, sm-rounding the hamlets like natural walls. The reason of this must be the coldness of the climate BLACK SHEEP OF THE WOLLO COUNTRY. 307 and their perpetual feuds. Behind these fortifications of hills they can defend themselves ; and besides, they are secured against the blowing of cold and violent winds. About ten o'clock we crossed the river Aftanat, to the bed of which we had to descend about a thou- sand feet. The breadth of the river was about fifteen feet. It carries down to the west a larger quantity of water than the river Igam mentioned above. Having crossed the Aftanat I saw, for the fii'st time, the large sheep, the skin of which is called Lovisa, and much valued by the Abyssinians. It was grazing in the field with other sheep. Its black hair was so long that it almost touched the ground. This kind of sheep wants a cold climate, and will never live in lower and warmer regions. Its skin is sold for fifteen or twenty pieces of salt, as it is seldom found, and much demanded by war- riors. I shall speak about this sheep at large, when describing the country of the AVollo Gallas. About eleven o'clock we saw, on the west of our route, down into a large and deep basin, in which the rivers Igam and Aftanat and several others join and form one river, known under the general name of Ghirid, which joins the river Jamma, near the village Kum Dengai in Shoa ]\Ieda. The ]\Iansians take re- fuge to this basin when they are attacked by a prevail- ing enemy, who cannot persecute them so far, as there is only one steep descent, which they can easily defend against an enemy. About twelve o'clock we passed the river Hoolladcha, 308 DISTRICT OF AGANCHA. and half an hour afterward the river Ghedambo^ which forms the boundary between the district of Lalo and Ghera. The country from the river Ghedambo to Agancha belongs hereditarily to the Queen-Dowager. Agancha is a small district in the larger district of Ghera, which belongs at the same time to Sahela Selas- sieh, first, on account of his mother Zenama-Work; and, secondly, on account of his forefather Negassi, the first Shoan King, whose residence was in Agancha, from which he went conquering to Tarmabar and fur- ther to the south-east of Efat, to Aramba and Ankobar. Having crossed the river Ghedambo, we had a good road and the same black soil as yesterday. Our general direction was from north-west-west to north-north-east. About one o'clock we crossed the river Agancha, from which the district around has its name. It is a tribu- tary river to the Ghirid, and rises in the mountain range which pours out its water over the whole west of Shoa. Many people followed my little caravan to find pro- tection, as they said, in my company on their road to Gondar. The greater part of them were going to Gondar to receive holy orders from the new Abuna, who, I understood, daily ordains about a thousand people. The candidates are obliged to be able to read the ^thiopic Gospel, and to sing from the book of Yared ; and then the Abuna lays his hands on them. For this they must pay him one or two pieces of salt. But it must be remarked, that nobody can receive QUALIFICATIONS FOR ORDINATION. 309 priests' orders, until his beard lias begun to grow, which is considered a sign that the candidate is be- tween eighteen or twenty-foui- years of age, as the Abyssinians seldom know their age. But the orders for deaconship will be given at any time. I saw bands of boys, being six or eight years of age. About two o'clock wc crossed the river Shai, which, I was told, goes through the famous lake Alobar, in the west of Mans. Having left this lake, the river is called Shimmas, and joins the river Jamma, which I have frequently mentioned. The lake, I am told, is very large, being about a day's joui-ney in circumfer- ence. It was formerly all land, until the Virgin iNIary destroyed it hke Sodom and Gomorrah. The tradition is, that the Virgin Mary appeared one day in the house of a rich and wealthy man, who lived in one of the \-illages built on the spot where there is now a lake. ]\lary, addi'cssing the house-wife of the rich man, said, "Give me some grain : I vdW grind flour for wages." The lady of the house complied with ]\Iary's request, and gave her some grain; but this, in a miracidous manner, instantly became meal. The Virgin then wanted her wages ; but the rich man refused, saying, that she had not ground the meal. Mary brought the matter before the judges of the country ; but these de- cided in favour of the rich man. At last the Virgin applied to the shepherds of the place, who yielded the question to her, by saying, that as she was the author and beginner of grinding, she could claim her wages 310 TRADITION RESPECTING by right. The Virgin, pleased with this decision, made the regulation that shepherds should annually, on the festival of Debra-Tabor, and of her anniversary, receive from their countrymen large quantities of Dabo — large cakes of white Abyssinian bread — as they had done her justice. But at the same time she destroyed the villages, changing them into a lake like Sodom and Gomorrah, which lake is called Alobar, and is, in the opinion of the Shoans, the dwelling place of all evil spirits, par- ticularly of their Alaca. Therefore, a Shoan, who wants to lay claim for having obtained a considerable degree of magical knowledge and practice, must have gone to school with the Alaca of the spirits in lake Alobar in the province of Mans. But the fact is, that such a cunning scholar swims several times in diiferent directions through the lake, as far inwards as his strength will allow him, and with this his lessons are terminated. Henceforth he has abundance of customers, who will pay any price for his talismanic writings or prayers. This impostor is called sometimes by persons from a considerable distance in the country, who put confi- dence in his charms. And what does he do ? He asks every-body at some distance from the place, where he is to go ; abovit the character, features, situation, rela- tions and connections of the person who has called him. Of course he then appears well informed of the circum- stances of the person who Mdshes to consult him. This deceived person is astonished at the wisdom which the impostor displays regarding things which only the THE LAKE ALOBAR. 311 Alaca of lake Alobar can have communicated to the magician, who then receives bullocks, mules, sheep, salt pieces, dollars, clothes, &c., in acknowledgment of the power of divination, with which he has been endowed by the gi'eat lord of Alobar. About four o'clock we crossed the river Ghidaot. The country around appears to be volcanic, the hills being quite bare, and large pieces of rocks have been thrown down and scattered over the country. The people pointed out a steep hill, on the foot of which a Tzabale was said to exist. Tzabale means such springs, the water of which has been blessed by an Abyssinian saint, and will therefore cure all sorts of diseases, even those which human skill is unable to heal. The Tzabale near the river Ghidaot, is ascribed to the blessing of the Saint Guebra Manfos Kedos, at whose anniversary this spring is considered as gifted mth a particular sanative power. The priests prevent the people from using the water at any other time, except at the anniversary of Guebra Manfos Kedos. It cannot be questioned that there are some mineral waters in Shoa, which have, in some cases, produced a very extraordinary effect ; but notwithstanding they must be governed by the same physical laws which we find in the mineral wells of all other countries. On the banks of the river Ghidaot I saw, for the first time, that kind of yellow thorn, the root of which is used in manufacturing yellow cloth, which they call Woiba, and which is worn by monks and by 313 ARRIVE AT AMAD-WASIIA. people who are in great distress. Instead of this root, they also use the bark of a tree, called Woiba. The root or bark is boiled in hot watei', together with the thread, which is then exposed to the sun. After five o'clock we arrived in the village of Amad- Washa, the name of which is taken from the soil, which resembles ashes. The Governor is under the special command of the Queen-Dowager; but notwithstanding he would not receive us at first. But some hard words made the man very smooth and civil. The first King of Efat is reported to have been born in Amad-Washa. Faris, the King of Gondar, who resided for some time at Dair, a stronghold in the neighbourhood of Amad- Washa, had a daughter of the name Sanbalt, who was married to a Governor, by whom she had a son called Negassi. This was the first Shoan King, who governed first the district of Agaucha, of which Amad-Washa was the capital at that time. Faris retm'uedto Gondar, while Negassi his grandchild, having made himself in- dependent of him, prosecuted other schemes by taking from the Gallas the countries of Ajabar, Tarmabar, and the places around. His successors increased their dominions in the same way of conquest, by defeating and expelling the Gallas, and by uniting other Chris- tian provinces, which w^re at that time almost indepen- dent of Gondar. Thus, if this account is correct, the descent of the Shoan Kings from the royal blood of the ancient line of the Abyssinian Kings is incontesta- ble. Certain it is, that Sahela Selassieh considers DISTRIBUTION OF THE SCRIPTURES. 313 Agancha his hereditary portion on account of his an- cestor Negassi. March \Q, 1842 — Before starting, I distributed a few copies of the Amharic Scriptures among the priests of the village. They accepted them with many thanks, and made no objection against their being in Amharic. On a strict inquiry, I found that very few copies of our Amharic Bibles had reached these distant districts of the Shoan realm ; and I determined to send a supply hither, on my return to Ankobar. About seven o'clock we started from Amad-Washa, accompanied by the son of the Governor. He showed me, on the road, the Church of the Four Animals — Arrat Ensesa — an appellation which alludes, beyond all doubt, to the four animals of Ezekiel i. About nine o'clock we began to descend into a defile, amidst the greatest difficulties. On descending, we found a spring of very delicious water. AVhen I approached to refi'esh myself, I was told that it was a Tzabale, or holy spring, which you can only enjoy on the Anniversary of the Saint who has blessed the water. I was also told, that, on this account, a large serpent watched in the inside of the spring, and bit all those who drank of the water at an improper time. I replied, that I did not care for any contrivances of the monks or priests in order to mislead the ignorant, and took a good draught of the water. I then asked the frightened bystanders why the serpent had not bit me. They had nothing more to say, than that the serpent would not bite good people. p 314 THIl RIVER KATCHENEE. The banks of this defile are so steep and high, that the natives would be able, by throwing stones upon the invaders, to check a whole army. I can now con- ceive why his Majesty has so little fear of any enemy approaching from the north of his territories. As this is the principal pass and entrance into the centre of Shoa, and as this defile is almost impassable, at least for any Abyssinian army in the present state of military system, the King has really nothing to fear so long as the Governor of Dair is attached to his interests. Having descended about 3000 feet, we arrived at the bed of the river Katchenee, which separates the province of Mans from that of Geshe. This river rises near Aiamsa in the Annas mountains, in the north-east of Shoa. The Katchenee is afterward called Wonshit, which falls into the Jamma, that famous river so frequently mentioned. The whole bed of the Katchenee, from one bank to the other, is about eighty feet in breadth ; but the real bed of the stream is only about twenty-five feet, the whole bed being only full during the rainy season. In this bed, I found the Thermometer, about mid-day, 90° Farenheit in the shade. The place where we crossed is frequently endangered by the Wollo Gallas, who being close on the opposite side of the river, follow its bed to this passage, where they plunder travellers, particularly in the evening. The Katchenee is joined below by the rivers Ketama and Woia, which come from the north • / ARRIVE AT DAIR. \~ 4,'^^ I. "' 315 of Shoa. The junction takes places in the north- west of Dair, of which I shall speak presently. The province of Geshe was formerly in the hands of an independent prince of the name of Ausabie, who was taken prisoner by Asfa-Woossen, the grand- father of Sahela Selassieh. A lady of the name of Wooshama was in favoui- with Ausabie. Asfa-Woossen knowing this, sent her valuable presents, in order that she might deliver over the prince treacherously. She called Ausabie to her, captured him, and sent him to Asfa-A^'^oossen, who immediately took possession of his capital of Dair and his whole territory. Many strong- places have thus fallen by means of female craft ; and it must also be mentioned, that the Shoan power has increased by female assistance. To this day his Shoan Majesty marries the daughters of chiefs whom he wants to bring over to his side by means of family bonds. Lately he went so far as to solicit a marriage with one of the princesses of England; but of course this singular idea was objected to by Captain Harris, Her Majesty's Representative in Shoa. About three o'clock we arrived at Dair, the seat of the Governor of the frontier. This Governor is ordered to be vei-y particular in admitting strangers to the stronghold. We therefore had to wait some time before we were admitted to his presence. His house is built on the top of a hill, which forms a complete mass of rocks, the banks of which resemble perpen- dicular walls, several hundred feet in height. There P 2 316 PLUNDERING HABITS OF THE GALLAS. is only one way which leads to the top of the hill, and this is attended with great difficulties. They have water on this hill, and are able to plough a considerable ex- tent of field. No Abyssinian force is able to conquer this stronghold. A number of people going to Gondar were waiting for my arrival in Dair ; but they were immediately ordered by the Governor to start, lest they might trouble me. They left their good clothes at Dair, and wore rags and sheep-skins over their bodies, being apprehensive of the Gallas, who plunder almost eveiy one they see with a good dress. They were ordered to go through the territory of Abie, a Wollo Galla Chief- tain, with whom the King of Shoa has been at enmity for many years. Each individual must pay a piece of salt to this Chieftain as passage money. This is the reason why he allows the Shoan subjects to pass through his country, though he is at enmity with the King of Shoa. The road to Gondar through the territory of Abie is much shorter ; but people carrying valuable property can never take this route, nor will they be permitted by the King of Shoa to expose themselves to the plundering Gallas on this road. TVTaen talking with the King about my road, he told me that Abie would plunder and perhaps kill me; and therefore he would send me through the territory of Adara Bille, the Chieftain of the tribe Lagga Ghora, with whom he was in friendship. The King, as well as myself, did VISITED BY ALACA DEBILLE. 317 to know at that time, that this so-called friend of his Majesty would totally plunder me. March \7, 1842 — Having been requested by Habta ]\lichacl, the Governor of Dair, to rest a day or two with him before I left the Shoan territory, I complied with his kind wish. In the coui'se of the day I made preparations for my joui-ney through the AVollo country, arranging my baggage in an easier and better manner. In the morning I was visited by Alaca Bebille, who has been a friend of mine for some time, and who was now retm'ning to his country, the island Debra-Gagood- gooad, in the lake Haik. He promised to take me to the lake if I wished to go there ; but I declined, as my jom-ney to Gondar would be delayed. I did not know then that Adara Bille would plunder me, and that necessity would compel me to visit this lake. In general I had not the least fear of being robbed, as I was strong enough to repel an attack of robbers who should venture to enter into an engagement with me in the open field. That Adara Bille would plunder me in his house by means of an artifice, how coidd I suppose this? I called upon the Governor of Dair in the course of the day ; but as he was hearing causes, I could not converse much with him. He again expressed his thanks for the Amharic and iEthiopic books which I had given him yesterday. I begged him to give me a man to introduce me to Adara Bille, the Chieftain of Lagga Ghora, as the servants of the King and Zcnama- 318 VISIT TO THE GOVERNOR OF DAIR. Work wanted to return from Dair. He promised to give whatever I should request. Whenever I went to the Governor's house on the top of the hill — my tent being pitched at the foot of it — I had great difficulty in finding my way through the numerous guardians of the stronghold. They have the strictest orders from the King to stand upon their guard with unrelenting punctuality. I understood from good authority that his Majesty bribes the watch- men, who are appointed by the King in a lineal suc- cession of their families, to keep a sharp eye on all the proceedings of the Governor himself. The Governor therefore must be on the best terms with these watch- men, and he must overlook much rudeness which they commit toward strangers. A few years ago these watchmen successfully contrived to dismiss a Governor whom they disliked, by insinuating to his Majesty that the Governor intended to declare himself indepen- dent^ and to join the party of his Majesty's enemies, in order to obtain his objects. CHAPTER 11. DEPARTURE FROM DAIR — VILLAGE OP GOLTA — ENTER THE COUNTRY OF THE WOLLO GALLAS — THEIR CHARACTER — MOUNTAINS OP THE WOLLO COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT GATIRA — INTERVIEW WITH ADARA BILLE — FRIENDLY RECEPTION — LEAVE GATIRA — NOTICES OF BERROO LOOBO, THE CHIEF OF WORRA KALLO — ARRIVE AT NEGASSI DATCH — VISIT THE GOVERNOR, SIDI MUSIE — HIS SUSPICIOUS BEHAVIOUR — LEAVE NEGASSI DATCH, AND ENTER THE TERRITORY OF CHARSO — PERILOUS SITUATION — ARRIVE AT TANTA, THE CAPITAL OF WORRA HIMANO— KINDLY RECEIVED BY THE CHIEF, IMAN LIBAN— POPULA- TION OF TANTA — EXTENT OF THE TERRITORY OF IMAN LIBAN — DEPARTURE FROM TANTA, AND ARRIVE AT THE RIVER BASHILO — BERROO ALIGAS, GOVERNOR OF WADELA, ATTACKS THE TERRITORY OF IMAN LIBAN — MR. KRAPF IN CONSEQUENCE RELINQUISHES HIS INTENTION OF PROCEEDING TO GONDAR, AND RETREATS TOWARD GATIRA — REASONS FOR PREFERRING THE TADJURRA ROAD TO THAT OP MASSOWAH — MARKET OF TOTOL A— RETURN TO GATIRA — INTER- VIEW WITH ADaRA BILLE— his HYPOCRITICAL PROFESSIONS OP FRIENDSHIP — HIS TREACHEROUS AND COWARDLY TREATMENT OP MR. KRAPF, WHOM HE ROBS AND IMPRISONS — PROVIDENTIAL DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF. March 18j 1842 — I left Dair about eight o'clock with very peculiar feelings, as I was now on the frontier of Shoa, and a long and dangerous way was before me. Descending from Dair into the bed of the river Waiat, which separates the Wollo country from Slioa, I deeply sighed for the assistance of Him in whose hands are also a savage-like people. On reaching the 320 DEPARTURE FROM DAIR. bed of the river we took au easterly direction^ following the course of the river. The Shoans are particularly afraid of the place where we crossed, as the Wollo Gallas frequently descend from their movintains, and lurk in the high grass of the passage of the river. Only a fortnight ago there were fifteen men killed, when the Wollos came to an engagement with the Shoans at this spot. We had scarcely crossed the river, when the Wollo Gallas set up a cry on their hills around, most probably believing that the Shoans had come to make an attack on their country. They must have observed our large party of men and animals. We had taken the greatest care to avoid the discharge of a gun, although there was game in abundance, particularly birds which I had never seen before in Shoa. We drove on our animals as quick as possible, in order to leave this dangerous spot behind us. We were fortunate enough to reach the district Mesaraser before the Wollos of Abie had assembled in any number. About four o^clock p. m. we reached the village of Golta, where the petty Go- vernor of ]\Iesaraser resides. This district was con- quered a few years ago by the brave Ayto Samma Ne- goos, then Governor of Geshe. The poor man is now in prison on account of his bravery. He killed in bat- tle the son of Berroo Loobo, the ruler of Woora Kallo. His Majesty declared that he had not ordered his Go- vernor to fight with Berroo Loobo, and put him into prison. The petty Governor of Mesaraser is under the ENTER THE WOLLO GALLA COUNTRY. 321 Governor of Dair. He received us well^ providing us with every tiling we wanted. As he was suffering from an inflammation of his eyes, he requested me to provide him with some medicine, which I readily gave him, applying an eye-wash of zinc. March 19, 1842 — The servants of the King and of Zenama-Work took leave of us at Golta. I entrusted them with letters to Capt. Harris and his Majesty, in- forming them how far I had advanced on my journey to Gondar. I started from Golta after seven o'clock. Our direction was north-north-east. After half an hour's walk we entirely left the Shoan territory, and entered the territory of the Wollo Gallas. The boundary of the Shoaii territory is marked by a fence and ditch, which separates the Shoan dominions from the frontier of the Wollo Gallas. This ditch secures the steep road against a sudden attack. After we had passed this fence and ditch, we soon came to the first Wollo village, which is in the tribe of Lagga Ghora, the first Wollo tribe through which our road led us. This tribe is depen- dent on the Chieftain Adara Bille. The Governor of the village came out to see us. He offered us some refreshments, which we refused to accept, saying, that we were in a great hurry to reach Gatira, the capital of Adara Bille, before the evening. He than gave me, at ray request, a servant to introduce me to his master Adara Bille. It is the duty of Adamie-Dima — the name of the Governor of the village — to receive •strangers, and to conduct them either to Dair or to p 5 323 ADARA BILLE DEPENDENT ON RAS ALT. Adara Bille, if they come from Shoa. In the west of om- road was the river Shotalmat^ which separates the tribe Lagga Ghora from that of Laggambo, which is governed by the Chief Amade. The first district of Adara Bille's territory^ in which we had entered, is called Shanghiet. His whole territory is considerable, and Adara Bille himself has the name of a brave warrior. Adara Bille is nominally dependent on Ras Ali, who claims the whole country of the Wollo Gallas. Adara was the name of his father, his own name being Bille ; but it is customary to mention the name of the father and son together. — Adara Bille is commonly called Abba-Daghet. The meaning of this word is, " father of height." lliis name has reference to his favom'ite horse, which has the same name, as the horse carries the Chief victoriously over all heights. It is customary in Abyssinia, particularly among the Gallas, to call a Chieftain according to the name of his horse. After we had left the village of Adamie-Dima, we had a pretty plain road. Though there are very mountain- ous regions among the Wollo tribes, yet the general character of their country is plain and level. But it must be remarked, that the country of the Wollo Gallas is not so productive as that of the Pagan Gallas in the south of Shoa. The Wollo country is high land, and therefore the temperature is different from that of the southern tribes. These are richer in horses, cattle, and grain. CHARACTER OF THE WOLLO GALL AS. 323 The WoUo Gallas are very bigoted aud fanatic Ma- homedans ; but the GaUas in the south of Shoa are Pagans, and a better set of people. The Mahomedan rehgion has added a great deal to the depravity of the Wollo Gallas ; their corruptions being great enough when they were still Pagans. A principal trait of their character is, outward friendliness and civility, with which they cover their inward artfulness. They them- selves confess that a Wollo Galla is to be compared with a hyseua. Another trait of their character is, pei-fidiousness and rapacity. A Wollo Galla will seldom keep his word, and will be always most desirous of getting yoiu- property. Their connexion mth Gondar, and Northern Abyssinia in general, has made them ac- quainted with many things unknown to the Southern Gallas; but the acquaintance of a savage with any valuable article \n\\ almost always lead him to possess himself of that article by any means. The Wollo Gallas, longing particularly for property, will seldom kill a stranger ; while the Southern Gallas, being less fond of propei-ty, would kill you, if you had not been made the ]\Iogasa or favourite of a Chieftain. The Wollo Gallas are much engaged in saying pray- ers and in blessing the country. They observe a cus- tom which I have never seen with other Mahomedans. They assemble early in the morning, say their prayers, take coffee, and Tohjid (sort of tea), and smoke tobacco. This ceremony is called Wodacha. It lasts on Wed- nesday and Friday till after midday. They beheve 324 MOUNTAINS OF THE WOLLO GALLAS. that they receive revelations from Allah (God) on the Wodacha. On such occasions they particularly request from the Allah that he will give them cows, clothes, and whatever they want ; that their Chief may find gold and silver ; and that he may daily become stronger. I once heard them praying in this manner. On om* way this afternoon we could see a great deal of the territory of Berroo Loobo, the ruler of Worra Kallo. His territory forms almost a triangle from south-west to north and north-east. — The highest mountains of the Wollo country are Sako, Korkorra, and Yoll. We had all these mountains on our left. There is perpetual hail on Sako ; but no snow. The moun- tain is very high, and is seen from a great distance. Korkorra is not quite so high as Sako. E.as Ali en- camped on Korkorra when he intended to conquer Shoa ; but he was compelled to return, having been beaten by the Wollo Gallas, who fell upon his troops every where with their light cavalry. Yoll is still less high than Sako and Korkorra. On the western foot of Yoll is Mecana- Selassie, on which place the former rulers of Abyssinia had for some time their residence. This was probably the native place of Abba Gregorius, whom Mr. Ludolf frequently mentions in his Works. The Wollo Gallas are divided into seven houses or tribes; namely: Worra Himano, under the present Chief Iman Liban ; Worra Kallo, under the sway of Berroo Looboj Lagga Ghora, under Adara Bille,orAbbaDaghet; Tehooladere, under Amade, or Abba-Shaol ; Boranna, ARRIVE AT GATIRA. 325 under Abba Damto; Laggambo and Charso^ under Aniade and Daood-Berille ; and Lagga-Hidda, under Assandoollo. About five o'clock p. m. we arrived at Gatira, the capital of Adara Bille. It derives its name from the juniper-tree, wliich is abundant here, and which, in the Galla language, is called Gatira. The river Gatu'a runs fi'om north-north-east toward south-west- west. This river is afterward called Shotalmat, when it separates the tribe Lagga Ghora from Laggambo. Ha^dng waited for a considerable time for an answer from Adara Bille regarding our reception, we were at last conducted to a large hoiise not far from the one in which he himself resided. They would not allow me to pitch my tent, as I had always done before on the road. As it began to rain just on our arrival, I did uot insist on pitching the tent, particularly as the rooms of the house which was given me were good. We were then honom'cd vnth. meat, beer, and hydromel in considerable quantity. A servant was sent by Adara Bille to attend and to inquire what more we wanted. Being much fatigued from the journey, I was about to go to bed, when Adara Bille sent for me immediately. Having never been called so late in Efat by any one, I felt uneasy at this call at night : however, I got up and went to the Chieftain with three of my servants. I was introduced into a small court-yard, and then into a large room, where I complimented him. He was sitting on a common Abyssinian bedstead. 326 INTERVIEW WITH ADARA BILLE. covered with an old carpet. He was drinking and talking with his favom-ite people^ with whom he ap- peared to be more familiar than I have observed with great people in Shoa. His dress was a common Galla dress — a cloth of cotton — well done over with butter. When I approached him, he made a bow, as if I had been his superior. He used all sorts of complimen- tary words, and was in general so friendly, civil, and familiar, that I could not recollect ever having seen a Chieftain like Adara Bille. He ordered me to take a place on the ground by his side, and began to ask many questions. He asked how many gims the King of Shoa had received from the English ; and then asked about ships, waggons, manufacturing of guns, cloths, &c. His condescension made me as free in my expressions as if I had been speaking to an equal and not superior. His whole appearance gave me the best impression. Having talked with him a long time, I expressed the deshe of my going home ; whereupon he said, " Go ; you have now delighted me much with your conversation." The reception I had met with from Adara Bille pleased me so much that I was going to recommend him to the attention of his Excellency Capt. Harris, whether he might not be inclined to offer the English friendship to Adara Bille. The favom-able idea I had received of him was increased when I heard that three rulers around had sought for his friendship. The King of Shoa has lately given him forty-four \allages in the FRIENDLY RECEPTION. 3.27 province of Geshe, from which Adara Bille receives the annual tribute, for the purpose of securing the road between Shoa and Gondar. As the King of Shoa always sends his messages to Gondar, and as all other routes proved dangerous, he thought it prudent to gain Adara Bille over to his interest, by giving him such villages, the produce of which is most valuable to him, being the Tef, which does not grow in his own territory. Berroo Loobo, the ruler of Worra Kallo, in the east of Adara Bille's tribe, has given him his daughter Fatima in marriage, and several villages suitable for the cultivation of cotton, which cannot be cultivated in Adara Bille's cold country. Berroo Loobo has acted from political motives in granting so much to Adara Bille. He wished that this Chief should not join the King of Shoa, nor the western Wollo tribes in war expeditions against Worra Kallo. Imam Liban, the Chieftain of the large tribe of Worra Himano, likewise gave a few villages to Adara Bille to keep him in his interest. These villages are particularly fit for the cultivation of red pepper and wheat. This position of Adara Bille between three influential rulers, might, I thought, render hmi worthy of the British friendship, as he must be a powerful Chief. The territory of Adara Billets father was small ; but his warlike son has considerably extended it. Last year the western Wollo tribes almost expelled Adara Bille from his country ; but having again gathered an 328 DISSENSIONS OF TOE WOLLO GALLAS. army, he completely defeated the invaders, and took possession of a part of the tribe Laggambo. The Wollo Gallas by no means agree together. Only Adara Bille and Berroo Loobo, the Chiefs of the two eastern tribes, join together in friendship ; but all the others are quarrelling among themselves. These dis- sensions of the Wollos are extremely subservient to the cause of Shoa and Gondar. If the Wollo tribes were all united, the rulers of Shoa and Gondar woidd be scarcely able to repulse them, as their cavalry is very numerous and the best in Abyssinia. The acknow- ledgment of Ras Ali by the Wollos is only nominal, and a mere custom of old, although Adara Bille, Berroo Loobo, and Imam Liban assist the Has with troops. Ha\'ing yesterday acquainted Adara Bille with my intention of going to Gondar, to see the Has and the new Abuna, I repaired early to him, thanked him for his hospitality, and took leave of him. At the same time I presented to him a valuable shawl which I had received from Capt. Harris, and some trifles of my own. He was extremely grateful, and begged me to make him a particular friend, as he would do all that he could for me. He gave me, at my request, a man to introduce me to Imam Liban, the Chief of Worra Himano, through whose territory the road would lead me to Gondar. I then walked off, thinking that I had gained his sincere and lasting fi-iendship ; but in this I was miserably disappointed, as will be seen afterward. DEPARTURE FROM GATIRA. 329 "We set out from Gatira about eiglit o'clock, accom- panied by a servant of Adara Bille, and the servant of the Governor of Geshe, who was returning to his master. Our direction was precisely north. On our road we could see more and more of Berroo Loobo's territory of Worra Kallo. i\Iy guide pointed out two hills, on which BeiToo's two capital towns, in which he ge- nerally resides, are built ; viz. Ajm-amba and Gof. Berroo's country appears to be hilly ; but at the same time with large plains between the hills. I saw par- ticularly one range of mountains, which is e\ddcntly the continuation of the Efatian range, of which I am obliged to make frequent mention. Tlie eastern fron- tier of Berroo Loobo's country is the territory of the Adels and that of Imam Faris, who resides in Gherfa. The northern part of Worra Kallo is bounded by the tribe Tehooladere and by Worra Himano. The south is bordered by Shoa, and the west by the tribes of Adara Bille and Lagga Ghora. Berroo Loobo is not on good terms with the King of Shoa, since the Shoans, under A)i:o Samma Ncgoos, Governor of Geshe, have killed his eldest son Ali. Berroo has now only one son left, whose name is Amade, and who has the reputation of being a brave warrior. About nine o'clock we passed through the districts of Googooftoo and Akale in the territory of Adara Bille. In Akale we had a high and ])rctty view backwards of the provinces of Geshe and ]Mans. I saw this morning the sheep with the skin called Lovisa. 330 SHEEP OF THE WOLLO COUNTRY. The country of the Wollos is its native country. I have ah'eady mentioned that this kind of sheep wants a cold cHmate, like that of the Wollo Gallas. The people take the greatest care of this animal, feeding it with roasted barley and other food. But they take care lest it should get too fat, as then its hair would fall off. At home it is placed on a bedstead and cleaned every day with water. Its hair, which is of a black colour, is a cubit or more in length. The skin, which is of a good quality, is sold for ten or twenty-five pieces of salt. The warriors, who principally wear this skin, have a very savage appearance in it. Berroo Loobo's father was Wati, a Shocra or weaver, who married the daughter of Endris, the Governor of Gof. Berroo was educated at the court of Imam Liban, the son of Amade, the son of Has Gooksa. Imam Liban had a son who was also called Amade, and who was the father of the present young Imam Liban, of whom I shall speak afterward. When the great Liban was dead, Berroo fell into favour with his son Amade, who made him Governor of Worra Kallo. He then expelled Ali, the son of Endris, from the country of Gof, in the possession of which he was con- firmed by his superior and friend Amade. Berroo is almost entirely independent ; but he prefers to keep up some show of dependence on the descendants of Has Gooksa. He fi-equently sends his contingent to the troops of Ras Ali, who would assist him if the King of Shoa or the other Wollo Gallas should become too ARRIVE AT NEGASSI BATCH. 331 strong for him, Amacle, the father of the present Imam Liban, intended to attack Shoa ; but his subse- quent death prevented hira from executing this plan. Notwithstanding, the King of Shoa having heard of his death, sent 100 dollars for a Tescar (festival for priests and other people after a funeral), and sohcited the friendship of his son, the present Imam Liban. About two o^clock we arrived in the district Negassi Datch, where we went to the house of Sidi Musie, a Governor of Adara Bille. As he was not at home on om' arrival, wc did not ventm*e to quarter om-selves in his house ; but I pitched my tent as I was accustomed to do. When he came, I complimented him, and re- quested him to assist us as long as we should reside here ; but having gazed at me for a few moments, he went into his house, -without doing or promising to do any thing for us. He then came out again, sat down in my tent, and asked what I had in my boxes. I said, " You are not ordered by Adara Bille, your master, to inquire after the contents of my boxes; but that you should assist and make me comfortable." He would not however do anything for us till I gave him a razor and some other trifles. We could not buy any thing in the neighbourhood, as the villages were far off, and as I did not like that my servants should be scattered abroad in case of any serious occurrence or occasion for self-defence. Wc had a very distant view from Negassi Datch. We saw from hence the high mountain Anxbassel, be- 332 VISIT THE GOVERNOR. tween Tehooladere and Yechoo. The stronghold of Ambassel was for a long time in the hands of Gove- nors who ruled by succession ; but the son of one of these Governors fell in love with a woman residing below in the plain. The father having consented to his son's marriage, arranged the solemnities, which were to be celebrated in the plain below. All the people of the fortress, except the old father, went down ; but the father of the bride killed them all. He then went up to the stronghold, killed the old Governor, and took possession of the mount for himself and his descen- dants. The present Governor of Ambassel is Ali Boroo, a Mahomedan. I have already stated that many strong places in Abyssinia have been treacherously delivered by female artfulness. March 21, 1842 — As Sidi Musie, our host, had from the very beginning of our stay withhim, given undoubted signs of suspicion, I had given orders to my people to watch by turns dm-ing the night. Sidi Musie always wanted to know what was in the boxes, and had declared that we should sleep free from all cares and apprehen- sions, as he and his people would come to my tent and watch the whole night. As he repeated from time to time his desire of watching, I positively refused, say- ing, that we would watch ourselves ; and protect our own property against any attack that might be made upon us during the night. As he doubted whether we could defend ourselves, I showed him the use of om' guns, which frightened him so much that he would not come LEAVE NEGASSl DATCII. 333 near us again. About midnight my watchman observed a great disturbance in the house of the Governor. His people went around my tent from time to time in order to ascertain whether we were asleep or not. They always pretended; when they were asked by the sentry, that they had some business in the jungle. We got up in an instant with om* fire-arms. The whole proceeding of this people and of the Governor convinced me that they would certainly have plundered us if they had not been in fear of our weapons, and if we had not watched the whole night. The servant of Adara Billc had left us and slept in the house of the Governor, with whom he never exerted himself in our favour. INIost likely he in- tended to have a share in oui* property, which they had schemed to plunder. We left Negassi Datch with sun rise. Upon starting we were suiTOunded by the Governor's servants, who demanded a present with great noise, as we had been in the house of a great king. I replied, " Your master is a servant of Adara Bille, and no king, as you say : besides, you have done nothing to deserve a reward on my part. 1 have given a present to your master, and he has done veiy little for me." This answer so en- raged them, that it was evident they would have plun- dered us on the spot, if they had not been afraid of exposing themselves to the effect of our small and large shots, with which they had seen us loading our guns. Besides, they were so afraid of the bayonets and the muskets which I had received from his Excellency the 334 ENTER THE TERRITORY OF CIIARSO. Ambassador^ that they would not even touch them for fear of being poisoned. The report had been spread in Shoa and around, that the EngUsh bayonets are poisoned like arrows. Our direction was north-west-west. About eight o'clock we left the territory of Adara Bille, and entered the territory of the tribe Charso, which is dependent on the Chieftain of Laggambo. The Governor of Charso is Sadetanka, who is well known from his plundering those merchants who venture to go through his country. As his capital, Manta-Wodel, was close to the road, we made all possible haste to pass by this dangerous spot. But we afterward fell in with one of his Governors^ Ensenne, as I shall show in the course of this day. I must confess that I seldom felt my mind so un- easy as on the road this day, and my heart was, like Moses of old, crying in secret to Him, who is the leader and warden of his distressed Israel. It is true, I had all the materials with which to make an honourable defence; but as a messenger of peace, I could scarcely make use of my weapons against the life of my fellow- creatures, though I am convinced that every body is allowed to make his self-defence in a proper way. I therefore begged the Lord not to lead me into tempta- tion for the sake of His Holy Name. You can scarcely conceive how precarious my situation was. I shall never forget the dark and painful feelings with which I travelled to-day through the territory of Sadetanka. What would our friends at home feel, if they could SUPERSTITIOUS NOTIONS. 335 know for a moment the clangers, difficulties, sorrows, and privations, in which a Missionary abroad is some- times placed ! They would certainly be more earnest in prayer for the Mission cause. But the comforts at home make them too easily forget the distressing situa- tion of their friends travelling in a savage country. About nine o'clock we had the misfortune to lose our road, as our guide either did not or would not know the exact way to the territory of Worra Himano. "^^Tien we asked the country people, they led us to the road in which we should have fallen into the hands of their Chief, though they cunningly concealed this from our know- ledge. These people troubled me much with the ques- tion, whether I coidd make rain, or foretel from the stars when they would have rain. I directed them to Him, in whose hands is heaven and earth, and who will give us all that we want for our temporal welfare, if we first seek for the real welfare of om* souls through faith in Jesus Christ, our only Saviour and Mediator. My servants told me on this occasion, that Sidi-Music had asked them yesterday evening, whether I did not know from the observation of the stars what would happen to me. About ten o'clock we passed a place called Oatara, where Ras Ali had his camp last year, when he was attacked by the Wollo Gallas and lost several detacli- ments. From this point we descended into a difficult defile, where I saw many beautiful birds ; but we did not venture to discharge a gun, as this would have 336 PRECARIOUS SITUATION. been the signal for a general assembly of the inhabi- tants around. We descended as quietly and as quickly as possible. We forgot eating and drinking on this most beautiful spot, as we expected every moment an attack from the rapacious inhabitants. About twelve o'clock we met on our road about thii'ty soldiers of the Governor Ensenne, who were all armed with shields and spears, and had the appearance of at- tempting an attack on our Caffila, as they at first con- sidered us merchants. I instantly ordered five of my musketeers to march in front of our animals, while I was in the rear with the others. The soldiers imme- diately withdi'cw from the road, and gazed at our im- posing weapons. The bayonets particularly attracted their attention. They then sat down, most probably to consult what they should do ; but none of them ven- tured to molest or attack us, and it seemed as if they were more afraid of us than we of them. But now oiu' attention was directed to the village, which we saw at some distance before us on the way-side. I learned with the most painful feelings that there was the house of the famous robber Ensenne, a true companion of Sadetanka. I was told that he formerly resided on a neighbom'ing hill ; but that when he heard that several caffilas passed the road, without paying a visit to the robber dreaded so much, he had his house built close to the way-side. Of course no merchant will now venture by this road. Our situation was now extremely precarious, and I felt something of the wrest- PERILOUS SITUATION. 337 liug which Jacob had before he met his brother Esau. I cousulted mth my men, whether we could not deviate from the road ; but this was found impossible, as we were sm-rounded on both sides by steep and impassable hills, and as in doing so, we should only have raised more the suspicion and rapacity of the inhabitants, and of the robber in particular. We resolved therefore to go on om- way and to risk every thing we could under the almighty guidance of Him who had brought us so far in safety. Having approached the house of the Governor En- senne, one of my people proposed to halt and see the robber in his lodging ; but I judged it better to pass bv the dangerous spot with all possible haste, because if he once saw om* persons and property, he might become desirous of possessing what we had. Happily the watchmen could not make out who we were, and so they did not stop us before the walls of the house, and we went on before they had time to inform their master of the passing by of an extraordinary stranger. The Governor, however, immediately sent his son with a few soldiers to prevent us going further, till he had heard some particulars of our })ersons and journey. At first I objected to halt ; but thinking that I had no right to refuse an inquiry of the lord of the country, I sat down under a tree, about 300 yards distant from his house. I then dispatched the servant of Adara Bille to give the Governor all the explanations that he wanted. I requested him to say that I should have called upon Q 338 MESSAGE TO THE GOVERNOR. him if I had been acquainted with him for some time, and if I had not intended to reach before evening the territory of Adara Bille, which Imam Liban had given him among his tribe ; and that as he himself would be aware of the long distance I had still before me, he would allow me to go on, lest night should overtake me. The servant went while we rested under the tree in sad expectation of the answer of the Governor. His son^s attention was entii'cly directed to our guns, and he fre- quently asked how many men could be killed with one musket. The bayonets frightened him a great deal. After a considerable time the servant returned, saying, that Ensenne had sworn that he would not have al- lowed us to pass, if a servant of Adara Bille had not been with us. The servant told him, that he should have nothing to do with us, as we had so many dangerous weapons with us, that we could destroy him and his whole retinue in an instant. The son of En- senne retui'ned, and we proceeded on om* way. My servants could not refrain from saying, that it was God who had inclined the heart of that bad man to peace toward us. Other servants said, "The God of our master is good, and will not forsake us." Although we had got rid of Ensenne, yet we looked back from time to time, fearing he would change his mind in the mean time, and send a messenger request- ing us to return. We drove on our animals as quick as possible. To my astonishment they could stand the task, although for some days they had been much CROSS THE RIVER MELKA-CIIILLO. 339 harassed, and had been travelUng since sl\ o'clock this morning. In one word, the Lord gave nie to understand that he had removed the difficuUies and not myself. About five o'clock we descended into the bed of the river Adella, which rises at the foot of Korkorra, and runs to the river Bashilo. It separates the territory of the tribe Charso from that of Laggambo. About six o'clock we crossed the river Melka-chillo, which comes from the mountain Sako, and separates Charso from the tribe Worra Himano. We were compelled to pass tlic night in the territory of Imam Liban, as we were almost certain of an attack if we rested in any other tribe. Having crossed the river Melka-chillo, where there is more security for travellers, its ruler being dependent on Gondar and a relation of Ras Ali, I proposed to sleep in the wilderness on the banks of the river, as there was plenty of grass for our starving animals, and plenty of wood and water. My people, however, would not consent to this proposal, having been frigh- tened too much during the day time. The night over- took us, and a heavy rain threatened to increase the in- conveniences of our situation. We had already marched from six o'clock in the morning till night-fall, and had not taken any food, and yet we had to go on still fur- ther, or rather totter, though we could not see any village in the neighbourhood. However, I found my consolation and joy in singing the German hymn, " Recommend thy ways and all thy sorrows to the fatherly care." Q 2 310 ARRIVE AT TARTAR AMBA. It is quite impossible for our friends in Em*ope, and those who are so fond of reading travels, to conceive my feelings under such distressing circumstances. Separated from the whole world, exposed to dangers, indescribable difficulties and sorrows, we had to pro- secute our way in a hostile and inhospitable country. How miserable should I have been, if I had not known the fire-pillar, the almighty covenant-God, accompanying me with His invisible presence ! Having ascended a hill for a long time, without knowing where the road would lead us, we arrived, to our unspeakable joy, at the village of Tartar Amba, which Imam Liban had given to Adara Bille in sign of friendship. As the villagers were all asleep, we had some difficulty to find any one who would give us shel- ter against the falling rain, and still more who would give some refreshment to our party almost dying with hunger. After many vain endeavours and attempts at being received by the villagers, at last a Mahomedan^s heart was affected at hearing of our situation. He got up, gave us his house, and some bread and beer. Hav- ing refreshed myself with what our host had given in haste, I thanked my Heavenly Father for the infinite mercy He had given me this day, I lay dowTi as I was, on the ground, and fell asleep. March 22, 1842— We started from Tartar Amba veiy late, as our animals as well as ourselves wanted an unusual rest. Our direction was then north-west, and sometimes north. About eleven o'clock we passed ARRIVE AT TANTA. 311 througli a large plain comitiy. To the east of our road were two steep single hills^ at a distance from each other of about one English mile. On each hill was a large village. These hills are called upper and lower Chiffa. They serve as strongholds in time of war, and against sudden inroads of the people of Laggambo and Charso into the territory of Worra Himano. About foiu' o'clock we reached Tanta^ the capital of Worra Himano, where Iman Liban resides. There is only one entrance to the village, which is secured against a sudden inroad by means of a ditch and wall. On arriving near this ditch we were ordered to halt, till my arrival had been announced to Imam Liban, who immediately gave orders that I should come and see him. On walking up the little hill on which the village is built, I was much annoyed by the multitudes of people gazing at me. ]\Iost probably they had never seen a white man before. I had the satisfaction of meeting in the court-yard two messengers of the King of Shoa, who had been sent to Imam Liban on some business. They proved very useful to me in my proceedings with the Imam. On being introduced to the Imam, I found him sur- rounded by his favourite chiefs, of whom the eldest, as he appeared to me, and most influential, gave a reply to the wishes of health and happiness, which I had ex- pressed toward the Chieftain. At the first moment I took this speaker for the Imam himself, till I was cor- rected by my introducer, ^\ ho pointed out a little figure 343 INTERVIEW WITH in the corner of the room. I did not know at that time that the Imam Liban was only a boy of fourteen years of age^ and that he was still guarded by his Lators. He was nicely dressed in a large white Abyssinian cloth of cotton, with which he covered his face, so that I could scarcely get a sight of his features. He asked me about the country from whence I had come, and where I was going to. Then his chiefs asked promis- cuous questions regarding my own country, its customs, arts, &c. ; but in so hasty a manner, that I could scarcely finish one subject before they touched another. They were really like childi-en. They then presented me with a book, which a soldier of the Imam had captured in the last war of Ras Ali with Aubie in Begemeder. It was an Amharic copy of the four Gospels, printed by the Bible Society, and given by Mr. Isenberg to a soldier during his stay at Adowah. I read to them the 5th chapter of St. Matthew, and gave a few explanations, to which they listened with an attention which I did not expect from Mahomedans. It is highly gratifying to find, that the seed of eternal life, which has been spread over Abyssinia by our Mission in Tigre, has been carried to the remotest provinces to which a Missionary has scarcely access, and we may confidently trust, that this seed, which we in our short-sightedness consider as lost, will exhibit some rejoicing fruits at the great day of revelation. May we therefore continue om* un- wearied exertions to our poor Abyssinian fellow-crea- tures, in good hope, that our labours will not be in vain, as it is not our cause, but the Lord's ! IMAN LIBAN. 343 Before leaving the Imam's room I begged him to give me some information about our road to Gondar, and to render me such assistance as I should require in going thi'ough his territory and beyond. He replied^ that he was very sorry to inform me of the present insecu- rity of the road between his territory and Begemeder ; and that the robbers had endangered the way so much, that lately one of his own Governors on returning from the camp of Ras Ali had been attacked and compelled to fight his way throvigh a band of robbers, amount- ing to about two or three hundi-ed men. I replied, that I had ah-eady been made aware of the parties plunder- ing strangers near the river Checheho ; but that this intelligence, disagreeable as it was to me, would not prevent me from prosecuting my way, as I hoped that the robbers would not venture to attack my gunners. " Well then,'' he said, " if you beheve this, you shall ha^e my permission to start from here ; but I will at all events order my Governor at Daunt to conduct you beyond the river Checheho, where you will find the robbers less numerous, and where you will be able to make up your business with them by means of your guns." As the son of the Governor of Daunt, whose name is Karaioo-^Iaitcha, was in the room, the kind Imam ordered him to set out to-morrow, and to inform his father of his orders for my conveyance beyond the Checheho. I thanked him obligingly, and left the room. 344 CONVERSATION WITH After I had pitched my tent, a servant was sent to attend me during my stay in Tanta. A large quantity of beer, hydromel, and bread was also brought. I had scarcely refreshed myself with a little of these provi- sions, when I was informed that the Imam was sitting on the wall opposite to my tent, and that he wished to see me in order to ask some questions. On going to him, he first asked me, whether the King of Shoa had really received muskets, cannons, and other valua- ble articles from the King of the White people beyond the Great Sea. I replied, that this was quite correct ; that the Queen of a great nation, called the English, had sent to the King of Shoa a Representative, with a present of 300 muskets, 100 pistols, two can- nons, and many other articles of great value — that the Queen, under whose protection I had the honour to be, had sent these presents as tokens of friendship, and not as tribute, because she paid tribute to nobody, while millions of people paid tribute to her — that the King of Shoa had sent letters to the Governor at Aden, in Arabia, who had acquainted the Queen with the desire of the King of Shoa to join in friendship with her; whereupon she had sent those presents — that though she possessed the greatest power, wealth, and happiness, yet she earnestly desired that all other na- tions should advance to the same state of happiness ; and although she feared nobody, yet she was concerned in promoting the welfare of all her fellow-creatures. She was, I added, particularly desirous of keeping up IMAX LIB AN. 345 friendly terms with the Abyssinian rulers, of estabhsh- ing commerce and intercourse between Abyssinia and her subjects, and of promoting the knowledge of the countries of Abyssinia and beyond. The Imam was extremely attenti\re to what I said, and I behevc he would have given me a satisfactory answer, if I had attempted to soUcit his desire for the EngHsh fi-iendship ; but I cannot see how the English or any other Em'opeans could approach his country, as the avenues to it are extremely difficult to reach, and because he is not an independent Chieftain. I there- fore thought it prudent only to give him an idea of the character of Her IMajesty and of her subjects, and to solicit his kind treatment toward Eui'opeans in general. He then requested me to allow my people, who had been drilled a little by the English Artillery-men at Aukobar, to go through the military exercises of my country. I said, that I was no soldier, but a teacher of the Word of God, which was contained in the book which he had shown me this afternoon ; and that I was a Christian teacher, having been sent to Abyssinia to teach its inhabitants the true way to their eternal wel- fare, and not to teach them military matters, with which I was not acquainted. However, if he wished to see the militaiy exercises of my country, my people would show him, though they themselves did not know much about the matter, as I had only allowed them to be drilled as far as I thought proper, and as they might Q 5 346 POPULATION OF TANTA. be useful to me in going through savage countries. Most of them managed the business so well in firing quickly and precisely, that the Imam covered his face, and exclaimed with astonishment, that no Abyssinian force could stand against a few hundred soldiers of my country. He then added, " You may go wherever you like, nobody will be able to rob you.^' Tanta is a small village, containing about 600 inha- bitants. A market is held here every week, and many articles are brought for sale. The people of "Worra Himano, though originally Gallas, seldom speak the language of the latter. I have observed this mth all the Wolla tribes through which I have come since I left Shoa. Most of the inhabitants speak the Amharic better than the Galla, and I have reason to suppose, that the Galla language will be entirely forgotten by the rising generation, as has been the case in the tribe of Tehooladere, where a few persons only understand the Galla-language. The continual intercourse of the Wollo Gallas with the Abyssinians in the north, and the Shoans in the south, seems to me to be the cause of this general reception of the Amharic among the Wollo tribes. But I doubt whether the western tribes are so advanced in the Amharic as the eastern tribes are, as these have less intercourse with the Abyssinians, and have been less dependent on the rulers of Gondar. Furthermore, I have observed, that the dialect of the Wollo Gallas is a little different from that of the Gallas in the south of Shoa. They have mixed up Arabic EXTENT OF THE TERRITORY OP IMAX LIBAX. 347 and Amharic expressions with tlie pui'e Galla tongue, as we may expect from Maliomedans. It would not therefore signify if this Galla dialect were to be com- pletely extinguished in process of time, as the pure Galla will be preserved in the south and south-west of Shoa. The territory of Imam Liban extends itself pretty far, four or five days being reqmred to traverse it from west to east- The Imam is considered as defender of the INIahomedan faith, and Head of the I\Iahomedan party ; and this is the reason of the attachment which all these tribes entertain toward him. He is the Re- presentative of the ]\Iahomedan power in Abyssinia. He is the Muhamedo, as they significantly call him. And this was another reason why I would not endea- vour to raise his desire for British friendship and assis- tance, as in my opinion the cause of civilization in Abyssinia and the countries beyond would rather lose than gain, if the British should support the INIahome- dan party, which would use its new strength to propa- gate the same system of bigotry and fanaticism with which they are infected, to all the other Galla-tribes which have not yet fallen into their hands. They would, if powerful enough, immediately exterminate Christi- anity in Abyssinia. A\Tierever they take a Christian district, they bm-n the churches and compel the inha- bitants to adopt ]\Iahomedanism. The young Iman Liban has a countenance expres- sive of intelligence, and his manners and behaviour are 348 . TAKE LEAVE OF IMAN LIBAN. pleasing. It seems to me that he will prove a brave warrior in the course of time. His conversation is en- gaging, though generally on the subject of war and war-like people. But it is possible that the present disturbances of Northern Abyssinia deprive him of the prospect and hope of future power, and assign to him the lot of insignificance, which is annually cast upon many of the Abyssinian rulers, who rise and vanish in a short time, as is the case with all earthly hap- piness. March 23, 1842 — Having selected a few pleasing things for the Imam, I went to present them to him, and take leave of him. The articles consisted of a colour- ed handkerchief, a pair of scissors, a razor, and a box of phosphoric matches. The last pleased him amazingly, and he expressed his sincere thanks. He took a fancy to my percussion-gun ; but with this I would not part. He has about 1000 match-lock-guns, as I learned from good authority. His army, which he can raise in a short time, is considerable ; but his revenues appear to be very scanty. The people are obliged to join the army whenever the Chieftain requires ; and as this oc- cupies a great deal of their time, they will not pay many other tributes. The soldiers must provide themselves with spears, shields, swords, and food during the whole expedition. The gunners only receive their weapons from the Chieftain. This is the case in Shoa and other Abyssinian provinces ; but in Tigre and Amhara, they have guns of their own. DEPARTURE FROM TANTA. 349 All the Chiefs which I have at present seen, have less state than the King of Shoa, and their form of Go- vernment is much looser than that of Shoa. It is true, all other Abyssinian subjects can go wherever they like, can dress themselves as they like, and have more liberty in many respects ; but there is no province of Abyssinia where person and property is so much res- pected and secui'ed as in Shoa ; though in Shoa there is much despotism, people being limited by numerous restrictions and regulations. But after all, Shoa compared with the other parts of Abyssinia, has un- questionably the preference, though the Shoans cannot go where they like, dress as they like, &c. Robbeiy is seldom heard of in Shoa ; so that yoii are as secure on a journey as in Europe. If you should lose on the road such things as people dare not use, they will to a cer- tainty be restored to you, as the King would pimish any one who ventured to conceal them. It is true, that most of tlie restrictions of his Shoan Majesty are obstnicting to commerce and intercourse ; but it is to be hoped that with the increasing influence of the British this will be done away ; and in fact, his Majesty has re- moved many restrictions by the tenns of the treaty which he concluded with Capt. Harris, Her IVIajesty's Representative, on the 16th Nov. IS-ll. Having repeatedly expressed my hearty thanks to Imam Liban, I took leave of him. We started from Tanta about seven o'clock, accompanied by the son of the Governor of Daunt, the frontier of Imam's territory 350 STRONGHOLD OF MAGDALA. in the west. Our direction was north-west- west. We had before us a long descent^ which caused us many difficulties. The son of Ayto Karaioo-Maitcha went before us, in order to inform his father that we should arrive at Daunt to-morrow. About eleven o'clock we reached the bed of a river running to the river Bashilo. The bed was dry, and water was only to be had in some places. We halted in the bed of the river till the greatest heat of the day was over. In the south-west of Tanta we saw the stronghold of Magdala. This is a high and large hill, resembling the form of a square, the banks of which are high and almost perpendicular. There is a plain on the top, with water and a field for cultivation, on which the Imam has a garrison and keeps his treasures, and in which he takes refuge when an enemy is too strong for him. No Abyssinian force could easily take this stronghold. There is only one entrance, which is in the east. About three o'clock we were overtaken by rain. We met many people going to the market of Tanta, which is held on Saturday. About four o'clock we arrived at the bed of the river Bashilo, which rises in the mountains of the Yechoo in the north-east, taking up most of the contributing rivu- lets and torrents of the countries around, and canying its water to the Nile between Godjam and Begemeder. It is a very fine river, with steep banks and a deep bed, between a range of mountains. It is upward of 100 feet in breadth ; but its real water-course is only about TPIE RIVER BASHILO. 351 thii*ty feet. Its depth was half a foot at the spot where I crossed. The preceding raiu may have increased it a little. Its curvities are numberless, as it must some- times take a circuitous way to receive a ri\'ulet, which could not reach the Bashilo if this gatherer of the water-taxes would not go to it. The Bashilo gave me great pleasure in studying the natui'e of the countiy, and really there is nothing more interesting for a tra- veller than the study of rivers and mountains. As we could not reach the next village beyond the river Bashilo before night, a petty Governor, whose ac- quaintance I had made on the road, advised us to pass the night on the banks of the river, an advice which afterward proved useful. The only disadvantage of this stay was, that we could not get any provisions. March 24, 1842 — We started early from the river Bashilo as we had a long way before us to Daunt, where the Fit-Aurari (general of the advanced-guard) Karaioo- Maitcha, should receive and conduct us to Bcgemeder. But the way of Providence had put an end to our jour- ney, though we were only five days' journey from Gon- dar. From the river Bashilo we had to ascend a great deal tlirough a com])letc wilderness, the country having been abandoned by the inhabitants for many years. On arriving at the top of the mountain which we had been ascending, a large plain, called Dalanta, was presented to our view. This plain was rich in cattle, grass, &c. ; and all that we saw gave the appearance of the inliabi- tants possessing considerable wealth. But this weahh 352 MR. krapf's relinquishes his intention however was to be put an end to \^'itll the occurrences of this day. Having traversed the plain on its south- western boundary, we descended to the road which should lead us to the house of Maitcha-Karaioo on the hill of Daunt, which we could distinctly see already. On a sudden we received the disagreeable and sad in- telligence, from people whom we met on the road, that Karaioo-Maitcha had been killed this morning j and that his son, who had been sent by the Imam on our account, had been imprisoned, in consequence of an attack which Berroo Aligas, the Governor of Wadela, had made upon the territory of Imam Liban. The people who gave us this news ran away in great haste, in order to secure their property on the plain of Da- lanta before the troops of Berroo Aligas should lay waste this plain. My people were now in great fear ; but I ordered them to go on, as perhaps this report might prove \m- founded. We had, however, scarcely marched a few hundi-ed yards further, than we met a female relation of Imam Liban, who confirmed the truth of the intel- ligence. The lady had escaped fi-om Daunt as soon as the Governor had been killed and the soldiers of Berroo Aligas had taken possession of the place. She had only one male servant with her, and had been obliged, as she said, to leave aU her property and even their children to the enemy. On mentioning her children, she shed a stream of tears, and entreated us not to pursue our joui-ney any farther, but to return with her OF PROCEEDING TO GONDAR. 353 to the Imam, as the ferocious sokliery of Berroo Ahgas would kill us, or at all events plunder us of our property. A\Tiile we were talking with the woman, we were met by other people who had taken flight. AVe therefore had no further doubts of the truth of the fact. There was now the difficult ques- tion, what we should do ; whether we should retreat, or go on. Most of my people advised a retreat in due time, and I myself was finally of that opinion, as we could not stand the chance of foixing our way through the plundering soldiers of Berroo Aligas. They were not the robbers whom we expected to find near the river Checheho, and whom we should most probably have been able to overcome, as they had no fire-arms ; but it would have been madness on our part to attempt a defence against the prevailing force of Berroo Aligas' gunners and cavalry. If we had defended our- selves, they would have killed us ; and if we had made no defence whatever, they would have plundered us. I therefore agreed with my people to a speedy retreat, as it is well known in Abyssinia, that an ap])roaching enemy runs in a short time over a large extent of coun- try ; and that if once the confusion has begun, you can- not even rely on youi- friends behind, as then every one does as he pleases. Thus we retreated with the greatest grief, as we were not far from Gondar, and as we had already overcome so many difficulties on the road. Had wc known that Adara Bille, whom we considered our greatest and best friend, would afterward plunder 354 PLAIN OF DALANTA : US, we would have risked our way to Goudar by all means ; but who can tell what will happen to him on the morrow ! Having returned to the plain of Dalanta, some of my people advised to pass the night in one of the vil- lages, until we should learn whether the enemy would really come by the road on which we had retreated. But I strongly objected to this" plan, because, if the enemy once reached the plain, he could easily overrun the villages before we should be able to escape with our heavy baggage of books and tired animals. We there- fore left the plain and ascended to the hills, where we quartered ourselves with the same man whom I had providentially become acquainted with on the road yes- terday. There was no fear of our being attacked before night, as the steep banks of the hills would prevent the enemy's horsemen from galloping on. When we passed over the plain of Dalanta we found the whole population confused and perplexed. They had already heard of what had happened at Daunt. Eveiy body who had a horse was ready, if the enemy should approach, to take flight. Our host behaved veiy kindly. He gave us provision, without which we had been since yesterday. He was very busy in sending his cattle to the mountains beyond the river Bashilo, where the enemy could not catch them so easily. I asked, whether they would not make any resistance in favour of their present master, the Imam Liban. My host replied, that poor people never fought, as they PERPLEXED STATE OF THE INHABITANTS. 355 would make submission to every one who could conquer the country. He added^ " The strongest shall be our master. Poor people think only of saving their cattle and not of saving theii* master^ who has to look out for himself." During the night I examined my luggage, in order to select those things which were heavy and which I could leave behind in case we should be obliged to leave the place in a hurry to-morrow. My mind was not a little excited at the thought of our being so near Gon- dar, and being obliged to return to Shoa. I could hardly believe that we were really on our retreat, and I had some hope that an occurrence would happen and lead us to the place of our destination. March 25, 1842 — After day-break we received the news that the enemy was advancing toward the plain of Dalanta. I was just considting with my host whether I should not send a letter and some presents to Beroo Aligas, and ask him for permission to go through his countiy, and for a safeguard as far as Begemcder. ]\Iy host agreed with me ; but the question was, who would take the letter and convey it through the plunder- ing army of Bcrroo Aligas. My Galla, named Bcrkie, oflFered to take charge of the letter. The letter was written, and the servant ready to start, when we learned that BeiTOO-Aligas himself had not yet arrived at Daunt, and that only his plundering advanced-guard was moving toward Dalanta. Under these circumstances I would not venture to expose my servant to the danger 356 RETREAT BEYOND THE RIVER BASHILO. of losing his life, though I afterward wished that I had despatched the letter. We left our host and retreated beyond the river Bashiloj which we crossed, but not at the place we did the first time. Having crossed the river, we ascended a steep mountain with the greatest difficulties, and nearly lost some of our animals. We had already lost two horses of burden in crossing the Bashilo at the first time. Having arrived on the top of the mountain, we lost our road, as we had no guide with us, and as the whole country was a complete wilderness, though it might be beautifully cultivated. At last we arrived in the little village called Gembarghie, after having sufi'ered much from the fatigues of our going over the mountains. As we found a spring of water near the village, we pitched om* tent there, and still entertained the hope that we might be able to prosecute om- road to Gondar, though a circuitous way. I had agreed vdth my host that in case he should receive better news from Daunt, he should give me information of it ; but his messenger never reached me, nor did I hear anything more of my kind host. All our provisions, except coffee were gone, and very little could be procured in the village, though I oficred whatever payment they wanted. AVe had therefore no other choice than to look out for game with our guns. I passed a very restless night, being extremely dissatis- fied with my return ; but after all, what could I do against the dispensations of Providence ? MOUNTAINS OF BEGEMEDER. 357 March 26^ 1842 — As no message from our host be- yond the river Basliilo had arrived^ I judged it best to go from Gembarghie to Tanta, and inquire of the Imam what I should do in my perplexing circumstances. We kept close to the territory of Daood-Berille, whose capital is Saint, which we could see from a distance pretty well. This man, who had it in his power to for- ward me to Gondar, has the reputation of being a robber ; and besides he was not on good terms with Imam Liban, without whose recommendation and pro- tection it was impossible to proceed to Daood-Bcrille. On our return from Gembarghie we had a pretty view of the course of the river Bashilo to the mount Samada, in the north-east of Godjam. The high mountains of Begemcder were also presented to our \ievf j and Debra-Tabor, the capital of Has Ali, was pointed out to me by one of my servants who had formerly been there. As I would not return to Imam Liban in too great haste, I pitched my tent near the stronghold of Magdala before mentioned, and sent a messenger to the Imam, to ask his advice in my critical situation. In the mean time, I inquired whether there was any other road to Gondar except by way of Daunt and Saint ; but my inquiry was in vain. My messen- ger retm-ned without having seen the Imam, his whole court being in confusion and preparing for war. My man was like to be ])lundered and deprived of his cloth and mule by the Imam's o^^^l people. Under such circumstances, and the way being obstructed on all 358 REASONS FOR PREFERRING sides, the best plan appeared to return to Shoa tliroiigh the territory of Adara Bille, on whose friendship and kindness I thought I could rely. In the evening we received the intelligence, that Berroo Aligas had been invested with the government of Daunt by Eas Ali, in consequence of the great services which Berroo Aligas had rendered to the Ras by his having captui'cd Ubea and his army. It would appear from this information, that Berroo Aligas had not attacked the territory of Imam Liban from enmity or a desire of increasing his power; but I doubted the truth of this intelligence, as Has Ali would have acquainted his relation, the Imam, before he had invested Berroo Aligas with the government or Daunt, which belonged to the Imam. It appeared to me, that the invader's party had pm*posely contrived this report, in order to protract or avert the measures which the Imam would take against the invading army. However, I thought proper to inquire of the Imam himself about this matter. Under these circumstances I compared the road from Ankobar to Tadjm'ra with that to INIassowah, and was led to the following con- clusions : — 1. Although the climate from Ankobar to Massowah is superior to that of the Danakil country ; and although there is everywhere plenty of water, and a cool and healthy an* on the Massowah road, yet the Tadjurra road is more prefered by the traveller. 2. It is true, that the difficulties arising from want THE TADJURRA ROAD. 359 of water and excessive heat in the Danakil country are very great ; but you do not meet with the distui'bances which ahnost continually happen on the road through northern Abyssinia, and which either delay or consider- ably endanger your route. 3. On the Tadjurra road you have only to agree with one guide and proprietor of camels, which will carry yom* baggage as far as Efat ; while on the Massowah road you pass from the hands of one Chieftain into the hands of anothei', each of whom wants a present for the assistance which he gives you. Besides, as there is no road for camels, you are obliged to procure your own beasts of bm-den, which cannot cany the same quantity of baggage which a camel can. 4. These beasts of burden cannot stand a journey, which is almost three times farther from Ankobar, than that from Tadjurra. Yom* animals will die, and you will be exposed to many difficulties till you have procured others. These and other reasons led me to the conclusion, that the Tadjurra road is, notwithstanding its incon- veniences and difficulties, preferrable to the IMassowah road ; and that therefore the road from Tadjurra must be kept open and secured. The gi-eat services which Berroo Aligas, Governor of Wadela and a part of the Yechoo, has rendered to lias Ali consist in the follomng facts, which throw a light upon the present state of things in Northern Abyssinia. When the new Abuna — Abba Salama — had arrived in 360 DEFEAT OF UBEA. Tigre, Ubea declared war against Ras x\li, his master. Joined by Berroo, the son of Dejaj Goshoo, Governor of Godjam, he attacked the Ras in Begemeder, near Debra Tabor. The Has was completely beaten and compelled to take refuge in a convent of Wadela. But Berroo Aligas, who was absent with his troops during the battle, and did not know about the defeat of his master, made a sudden attack on Ubea's camp, who in the afternoon of the battle was overjoyed at his victory, and had given way to the excesses of intoxication. Ubea was captured in his tent, being quite intoxicated, and most of his troops were also imprisoned by Berroo Aligas, who was then assisted by those prisoners of Ras Ali who had in the morning fallen into the hands of Ubea. These were set at liberty, and imprisoned those who had captm'ed them in the morning. The Ras regained his power, while that of Ubea was totally overcome. During the captivity of Ubea, the Ras appointed Merso, the brother of Ubea, Governor of Semien and Tigre ; but the Ras was requested by the Abunas, who had taken Ubea's party and was imprisoned at the same time with Ubea, to set his friend at liberty. The Ras complied, and summoned Merso to restore his government to Ubea his brother ; but JNIerso refused to resign and submit himself to the orders of the Ras. Thus a new war arose between Merso — who had at first taken the party of the Ras till his brother was cap- tured — and Ubea, joined by the forces of the Ras. When the intelligence of Ubea's captivity arrived in Tigre, the RETURN TO IMAX LIBAN. 361 people of this province chose a new Governor in the person of Balgadaraia, a grandson of Ras Wolda- Selassieh, who has the reputation of being a brave warrior and a kind master. But it is a question, whe- ther this new Governor of Tigre, who has to tight with many petty chiefs in Tigre itself, will be able to keep up his power, or whether he will be expelled by Ubea when he has settled his business mth his brother Merso in Semien. As Ubea is assisted by the Ras, I suppose Balgadaraia cannot stand the task of a war with both these. In the mean time the roads are considerably endangered. March 27, 1842 — We returned this morning to Imam Liban, who appeared to have been in great sorrow and apprehensions regarding myself. "SATien he saw me, he said, " You have done veiy well in returning to me, as you cannot go to Gondar under present circum- stances. If you Hke you can take your refuge with my Governor Joossoof on the stronghold of Hoait,* which my enemies w^ll not be able to conquer. In the course of a month you will be able to see whether you can again attempt your journey." I replied, that I could not take the part of any of the combatants, and that I would prefer taking any other route which he would recommend to me ; or if not, that I would return to Shoa. He said, " Just as you like ; but 1 * This is a high hill on the junction of the river Basiiilo with another river, the name of which I have forgotten. The hill is situated in the uorth of Tauta. 363 LEAVE TARTAR AMBA. cannot send you to Gondar, as all the roads will be closed for some time/^ It appeared that he wished to send me to Hoait, in order that my gunners might assist in the defence of the place ; but I would never have consented to this^ except under most perplexing circumstances. I learned afterward that the stronghold had been attacked by Berroo Aligas and his brother Faris, who joined him at the time of my retiu'n to Adara Bille, and that many men had been killed on both sides. I took leave of Imam Libau^ and retm-ned to Tartar- Amba, where Abba Gooalit, the Governor of Adara Bille's territory in Worra Himano^ received me well, and provided me with provisions, which had been very scanty for several days. March 28, 1842 — Abba Gooalit, our host, treated us kindly. He is a Christian. In general, there are many Christians in Worra Himano ; and I was told that there were many in former times before Amade, the father of the present Imam, by means of force and persuasion, converted a great number to the Maho- medan religion. If Berroo Aligas, who is a Christian, should now be victorious, the cause of jMahomedanism would receive a severe blow in Worra Himano. Abba Gooalit was civil, but at the same time a great beggar. He wanted a mule from me, though he saw that all my mules were for my own use and for my servants. We left Tartar Amba about sunrise, accompanied by a servant of x\bba Gooalit. "NYe took great care to ATTEMPTS TO SUBJUGATE SIIOA. 3G3 avoid going toward the territory of Ensenne^ the famous robber in the tribe Charso, which I have men- tioned before. AVe kept our route in the territory of Worra Himano, which is bounded on the north by Wadela and Yechoo, on the east by Tehooladere, on the south by Ben'oo Loobo's and Adara Bille's countries, and on the west by Begemeder. The people knowing that I came from Shoa, frequently asked me, how many ounces of gold I had received from the King of Shoa, it being the general opinion of the Abyssinians in the north ; that there is much gold in Shoa ; and that its king gives this metal to all strangers ; who leave his country. In some instances this report is true, as the king has given gold to some strangers, but Shoa is not the country where gold is found. Occasionally some may be found ; but the gold which comes to Shoa, is brought from Gm-ague and beyond, where it is found in the bed of rivers after the rain. But no Shoan subject is allowed to possess gold, which is only in the hands of the king, who would severely punish any of his subjects who had any, except the king himself had given it. The idea that Shoa was a rich gold country has in- duced several rulers of northern Abyssinia to attempt to subjugate Shoa ; but they never could succeed, as the Wollo Gallas took the part of the King of Shoa against the invaders, and as the difficulties from the nature of the counti-y are vciy great. I lis Shoan Majesty knows veiy well that the northern rulers have K 2 364 MARKET OF TOTOLA. always an eye upon Shoa ; and therefore he endeavours to be on good terms with them, and bribes those governors with presents who might prove prejudicial to him. Most probably he will give up this system of foreign politics, since he has received great assistance in the British friendship, which, if he would only make a proper use of it would make him king of the whole of Abyssinia. About ten o'clock we passed Fala, where a celebrated market is held. It is situated on a hill, with steep and high banks in the east and west. In this direction a wall of about three or four feet in thickness has been built to close the road against an invading army. This difficult passage secures from the south the access to the interior of the possessions of Imam Liban. In the west of Fala is the mount Amora-gadel, which is a natural stronghold against the inroads of the Galla tribes in the south-west. In the east we saw a high hill, called Kemmer Dengai, which was produced by a former Imam, according to a tradition, which states that when the Imam was resting on a stone, he ordered his servant to lift it up ; and that when the servant did so, the stone became a large hill. About three o'clock we passed close to the market- place of Totola in Berroo Loobo's country. This is one of the most celebrated markets of Abyssinia. We saw immense flocks of people coming from all quarters, as the market was to be held the next day. Even the Boranna Gallas, of the western Wollo tribes, \isit this DUTIES LEVIED ON THE MARKET OF TOTOLA. 3G5 market. INIercliants come from Gondar, Tigrc, and Shoa. Whatever Abyssinia produces, is sold in this market, particularly horses, skins, clothes, and slaves. The duties which Berroo Loobo levies on this market are said to be veiy little ; but not^vdthstanding, he receives weekly about 6000 or 8000 pieces of salt. It must be remarked that a dollar is changed for thirty pieces of salt in Loobo's country. The people here are as scrupulous as the Shoans in selecting a certain kind of dollar. The dollar must not only have seven points distinctly expressed above the star in the middle, and s. f. below ; but it must also look very white, and must not appear dirty, as they believe that filth has been ap- plied to the dollar for the purpose of covering the tin, of which it had been composed by impostors. I am sorry to say, that they are not so particular in having their faces cleaned, or their clothes washed, as they are in selecting this sort of dollar. There are several other important market places in BciTOO Loobo's country, and I have often heard that Berroo encourages trade, and in general has great order in his government. The Danakils like him much, and his people trade to Tadjurra. In this respect he must be superior to the King of Shoa, who did not allow his subjects till hitherto to go to the coast, probably from motives of superstition or narrow ideas, as if the en- trance to his kingdom would become known to strang- ers, and his suljjects having been acquainted with the 366 REACH THE TERRITORY OP ADARA BILLE. Danakils^ might run over to them when they are male- content with hira. About five o'clock p. m. we again reached the terri- tory of Adara Bille, and intended to pass the night in the house of a Governor called Edris ; but on an-iving in his village we learnt that in consequence of a quarrel which arose between him and his subjects^ he had been compelled yesterday to take flight. The whole village was still in confusion, a circumstance which was ex- tremely unpleasant to us, as we had believed that as soon as we had returned to the territory of our great friend and kind host, Adara Bille, our difficulties and privations would be at end. The behaviour of the vil- lagers was rude and daring, and every appeal to Adara Bille, to whom we represented their proceedings, was in vain. Our guns, however, frightened and prevented them from falling upon our baggage like a vulture on his defenceless prey. I foimd it necessary to put on a sentry; and as my people were very tired from the fatigues of the day, I watched in my turn. From the village where we had pitched the tent, I had a majestic view over almost all the territories of the Wollo Gallas. Ranges of mountains run from south or south-east to north and north-west. Each range is separated from the other by a plain, a river, or a torrent. Each range is inhabited by another Wollo tribe, just as I have observed in the country of the Gallas in the south of Shoa. The river or torrent serves the inhabitants of the mountain to defend their territory against ano- ARRIVE AT GATIRA. 367 thcr tribe. The rivers rim cliiefly to the Bashilo, which has the same destination as the river Aclabai in Shoa ; viz., to collect the tributes of water of a few hundred miles around and to carry this tribute to the great lord Abai or Nile. I must confess, that the sys- tem of the mountains and rivers of Abyssinja always replenishes my mind with astonishment at the wisdom of Him who has created all things with the best order and organization. March 29, 1842 — When the man who had accom- panied me from Tartar Amba had left, we started from the Aillage where we had been treated very rudely. As our animals were tired from the continual fatigues, we had great difficulties in giving them their loads. Several mules were sore and could not be mounted. I thought that if I should undertake this journey another time I would pack up all my baggage on horse-back, but with a very light load. I would be mounted myself on horse-back, and my servants also. A guide would show me the road. I would take such a quantity of provi- sions that I should not be obliged to halt at places where there is any danger, and should I accidentally fall in with dangerous people, I would mount my horse and escape. This is the only way of traversing these hostile regions. We arrived at Gatira, the capital of Adara Bille, at three o'clock. I immediately sent my compliments, and explained the reasons of my speedy and unexpected return. lie sent word, that I had done exceedingly 368 VISIT ADARA BILLE. well in returning to him, and that God had delivered me from being plundered and murdered on the road to Gondar. At the same time, he sent some refreshments, and promised to give all that I wanted, as he wished to make me very comfortable. Can you fancy this to have been the language of a man who himself was going to plunder or to kill me in his own house ? After an hour^s rest, I was called to see him ; and when I ap- peared, he used the same expressions as before, and ap- peared to be extremely sorry at my disappointment in the prosecution of my journey. How could I suppose that Adara Bille, whose house I considered as my own — who always pretended to be the most sincere friend of Sahela Selassieh — who assumed the greatest friend- liness — who sent every moment to inquire after my wants — and who, in one word, treated me vnth the utmost attention — how could I suppose that this man was the very worst man whom I had ever seen in my life ? My people, as well as myself, hoped that we should in a few days be within the boundaries of Shoa ; but our Almighty Guide had intended to lead us by an op- posite road, and to try me with indescribable privations, hardships, dangers, and difficulties. March 30, 1842— When I intended to leave Gatira after sun-rise, I was ordered by Adara Bille to stay with him, till he had informed the Governor of Dair, and through him the King of Shoa, whether I should be per- mitted to return to Shoa or not, as he had only received ADARA BILLETS FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP. 369 orders to conduct me to the road of Gondar, and not that he should assist or allow my return. If he allowed me to start without the king's knowledge^ his Majesty might afterward blame him, as he had done when the brother of Samma-Negoos escaped, when his ]Majesty sent the message to Gatira, " INIy son, my son, why doest thou not watch ; why doest thou allow everybody to go thi'ough thy country as he pleases ? " I replied, that I was no stranger to the King of Shoa, who knew me very well, and who would probably be delighted with my return. Besides, his Majesty could not have any objection to my entering his country, as he had stipulated in a treaty with the Queen of the English, that no British subject should be prevented from entering the Shoan dominions. But all my objections were in vain, as Adara Billc declared that I should not move from Gatira, till he had received the answer of the Governor of Dair, who was the King's repre- sentative on the frontier. In the mean time he would make me comfortable, and give me every thing that I should want. He then sent a messenger off to the Governor of Dair. One of my lads also accompanied the messenger at Adara Bille's request. At the same time I wrote a letter to his Majesty, and to Captain Harris, the British Ambassador, informing them of the reason of my retui*n, and of my detention in the. house of Adara Bille. But how much was I as- tonished at learning four days afterward, that my servant had been imprisoned on the road by Adara 11 5 370 ADARA BILLETS FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP Billc's Governor of the frontier, and that only Adara Bille's servant had gone to Dair, where he most pro- bably never mentioned my business. Thinking that Adara Bille intended to detain me for the purpose of obtaining from me some presents in addition to those which I had given him on my first stay in his house, I gave him several valuable things, hoping he would allow me to depart. But of course after he had once made up his mind to plunder my whole baggage, he was not content with these. His head-wife Fatima, the daughter of Berroo Loobo, Chieftain of Worra Kallo, sent for a looking-glass, which she received. In the afternoon a messenger from Berroo Loobo arrived at Adara Billets ; but for what purpose I could not ascertain. Adara Bille called me to his house, and introduced me to the messenger, who was a man of great influence and favour with Berroo Loobo. He first asked, what the English had sent to the King of Shoa ? and then requested me to see his master at Ayn-Amba ; but I replied, that I \vished to return to Shoa without any delay, as I wanted to go to the coast of Tadjurra ; and secondly, that I had nothing to give his master, who vv^as an influential and great Chieftain of the Wollos. March 31, 1842 — As I wished to depart from Gatha, I went to the house of Adara Bille to obtain permission ; but I was told that the Wodacha was not yet finished. I have made mention before of this religious ceremony, AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 371 which makes the people quite mad. In the afternoon I was called by Adara Bille. I took the liberty of begging him to let me go to Dair or to Adamic Dima, his Governor of the frontier, till the messengers should arrive ; but he answered, that I should never mention this subject before the arrival of the messengers ; that he was very sorry about my delay, but that he could not help me, as he was afraid of the anger of the King of Shoa. I saw now clearly that I could not rely on his friendship, and that he was going to play me some trick ; but he, observing that I w^as dissatis- fied with his beha^^om•, again assumed a friendly air. April 1 — As this day was Friday, I could not see the Chieftain before three o^ clock on account of the Wodacha, which he strictly observes. I had seen this morning a messenger of the King of Shoa, who had lately been sent to Gondar to the Etcheghue (Head of the monks), and who was now on his return to Shoa. Although he had been absent for five months, yet Adara Bille did not prevent him from prosecuting his way, nor state that he fii'st wanted the permission of the King of Shoa before he could depart to Dair ; but on the contrary, the messenger had been ordered and encouraged by Adara Bille to depart immediately. I mentioned this case to the Chieftain ; but he said that this man was an old acquaintance of his, and that he was the King's messenger, whom he could not prevent from departing whenever he liked. I then complained of the little food which had been given to my animals. 372 ADARA BILLETS FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP which the cunning robber had ordered his servants to place in his own stable. The proceedings of Adara Bille began to excite my suspicions, which I could not conceal from some of my most faithful servants, I thought it very remark- able, that wherever I went I was accompanied by a ser- vant of Adara Billc, who appears to have guessed what I intended to do ; namely, to escape at night. Every movement of myself and servants was watched over ; and when I wanted to buy something, the watchmen said, " Why disperseyouthemoney ?" Many sayings of the people coming to my ears, made me still more dubious of Adara Bille' s proceedings. A man who begged for charity before our doors, wanted a dollar, which of course was refused. He then said, " You do not know whether you will leave this place in safety, or whether you will become a beggar like myself." I could not forget these words, though I thought that the man had contrived them to stir up my liberality. Under these circumstances I judged it proper and necessary to secure my baggage against any attack which Adara Bille might openly attempt upon it, be- cause I could not think that he would act so cunningly. I thought that if he had made up his mind to plunder me, he would do so openly ; and for that we were prepared every moment with our guns, as Adara Bille was well aware of. But he, observing that I looked through his scheme, feigned still greater courteousness and amity than before, as the moment was not yet arrived to AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 373 strike the blow which he had prepared against me. He sent every moment to inquire after my health, and procured pronsions for us in abundance. Sometimes he sent to console me in my distress, as he called my situation, and that he was himself distressed at the detention of om' messengers to the Governor of Dair. Though I knew that there was much deception in these messages, yet I cou.ld not think that he would carry his dissimulation so far. However, I was con- firmed in my resolution to escape with the principal part of my baggage. The sen^ants to whom I com- municated this plan, remonstrated, by saying, that Adara Bille would not plunder me, and that my escape without any reason would give me a bad name : how- ever, if I would insist, I should at all events wait for the answer from Dair. Finding that there was much truth in this remonstrance, I delayed my intended flight till it was too late to put it into execution. April 2, 1842 — The day on which the dark clouds of our critical situation were to be discharged, approach- ed. The work of darkness, the diabolical hypocrisy of Adara Bille, was about to be disclosed. I had be- gun to read, for my edification, the book called " Com- munications from the Kingdom of God," published in Germany by Professor Shubert. The interesting nar- ratives contained in it gave me mucli comfort and encouragement. Having finished the reading, I changed my clothes, as I found the old ones very in- convenient, and partly worn out. At that time I did 374 ADARA BILLE's FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP not know that without this change my long journey after- ward would have been still more painful and precarious. About ten o'clock the messengers arrived; but I was surprised at learning that the Governor of Dair had given no positive answer regarding my return. Of course he had never been asked about it. But I was still more astonished at learning from my man that he had been imprisoned on the frontier^ and had not been permitted to go to Dair in company with the servant of Adara Bille. This circumstance^ of which nobody would give me any explanation, increased my suspicion. When I asked the messenger of Adara Bille about the answer which he had received from the Governor of Dair, he was silent, and only said, " You have no other friend or relation except God." I then decided to escape during the approaching night. I packed up separately those things which were of value, and which were not too heavy, viz : the money, most of the clothes, instruments, important papers, &c. ; while I left the ammunition-box, having taken as many cartridges as I thought would be suffi- cient on the road. I also left most of the books, which I knew he would not touch. I intended to leave the house silently at midnight, so that I might be able to reach the frontier of Shoa about daybreak. I did not expect any resistance on the frontier on the part of Adamie Dima, who would easily have been frightened by our weapons. But Adara Bille hastened to anticipate my plan. AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. O/O by the execution of his artful scheme. He called me about three o'clock p.m., and said that the Governor of Daii- did not object to my retui-n to Shoa, if circum- stances had prevented me from proceeding to Gondarj and that he had instantly despatched a messenger, in- forming the King of my embarrassment on the road, and my retm-n to Shoa. Adara Bille communicated this news to me with such cheerfidness and confidence, tliat he made me hesitate regarding the execution of my plan for the coming night. He said, "Be rejoiced, because you will go to-morrow : you will leave me for ever." I thought it prudent to delay my escape till the next night, in case he should not fulfil his promise of sending me off in the morning. Besides, I had a sick servant, who could not go with us this night. I asked Adara Bille, in a positive manner, whether I should be off to-morrow ; and he swore, by the life of Sahela Selassich, that I should. I then walked off, quite satisfied. He inmiediatcly sent a servant with a fresh supply of provisions, which, he said, would serve me on my road to Shoa. One hour had scarcely elapsed before he sent again, saying, that if I wanted anything more I need only point it out, and it should imme- diately be presented to me. As I wished to depart early the next morning, 1 went to bed about eight o'clock in the evening, and ordered my servants to do the same. Already slumber- ing, I was awakened by a servant of Adara Bille ; who invited me to call upon him, as he wished to take a 376 ADARA BILLE'S FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP final leave of me, as he would probably be in bed or busy when I should start in the morning. This invita- tion, being given so late, puzzled me a little, and I intended to refuse ; but thinking that this would be the last annoyance which Adara would give me, I got up, intending to settle the business as quickly as possi- ble. At the same time, all the servants were invited, except one, who was to watch the baggage. We con- sulted whether we should take our arms with us or not ; but we decided that Adara's house was so close, that our appearance in arms would be improper, par- ticularly as it was the last time we should see the Chieftain. We therefore went without our arms. When Adara Bille saw me entering the room, he made a bow, and said that I had given him infinite pleasure in accepting his invitation. The only reason, he said, why he had called me so late, was, because he would probably be busy to-morrow, and unable to take a personal leave of me ; and because he was desu-ous once more of my conversation, which had always de- hghted him. He then asked whether he could see with my spectacles ; and when I told him that most probably he could not, as his eyes were not weakened like mine, he begged me to allow him to tr}\ He attempted; but of course could not see anything. He then said, " You have told me this before," and re- stored the spectacles. He then wanted to try my boots ; but in this also he was disappointed, though I had told him that every boot must be made according to AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 377 the size of the individual. Then he asked^ whether^ in my country^ Christians eat with Mahoraedans. I replied, that there were no Mahomcdans in my country ; but that, supposing there were, we should not hesitate to eat with them, as no food which enters the mouth can make a man unclean, but that which comes forth from the heart, \iz. plunder, abuse, fornication, murder, &c. He continued asking, and our conversation was pro- longed. I at last got tired, and expressed my desire to wish him good night and good bye. But he, hearing this, said, " Do not go yet, my father ; I have not yet been delighted enough : you must eat and drink more, as you have scarcely taken anything since you entered my room." After a few minutes, I repeated my desire to go home, and then got up ; when he, seeing my intention to leave him, went into a small cabinet behind the bedstead on which he was sitting. As soon as he had entered, his servants fell upon nic and my people, as if a signal had been given for the purpose. The man who had seized my arm said, "You are a pri- soner : give surety that you will not escape." My servants, as well as myself, were astonished at this strange proceeding. At first, I took the whole scene for an expedient of Adara Bille to prove my intrepidity and courage ; but I soon found that the Wollo Chieftain made no sjiort with me or my people. They took me out of Adara's room, into a small house which had been already arranged for my prison. They first allowed me, how- 378 ADARA BILLE'S FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP ever, to see the small cottage in which my servants were confined. I was then separated from them, and conducted to my private jail. There I was ordered to give np all my clothes, and the contents of my pockets. As I hesitated to do this, my guards declared that they were ordered by Adara Bille to put me to death, if I did not instantly give up all that I had with me. At the same time they snatched from me my Abyssinian cloak. I appealed in vain to the justice and friendship of Adara Bille. "Give up the treasures which you have with you," was the continual clamom- of the plundering soldiers. " You must die immediately, if you conceal the least of your property." The female slaves, who were grinding meal in a corner of the room, began to lament and cry aloud. WTien the soldiers endeavoured to take off my boots, shirt, and trousers, I obstinately refused, till they at last desisted, most probably not knowing how to take them off without cutting them to pieces. However, they examined mevery closely, in order to discover whether I had any money or any thing else. Unfortunately a dollar, with the keys of my boxes, and my penknives were discovered, and immediately taken. Also a small copy of the English New Testament with some notes of the day was found and taken, though I entreated them to leave this, which I considered a greater treasure than any thing else, as it contained the Word of God. But whatever fell into their hands, they would not give me back. I remem- bered the proceedings of the raging multitude toward AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 379 my Saviour before Pontius Pilate : His example was the only treasm-e wliich strengthened me in this dreadful moment, when even my life was at stake. I en- deavoured several times to remind them of death, and the judgment hereafter ; but they had neither eyes nor minds for this application. " Give up your money," was theii- cry. A short time afterward, one of my boxes, which they could not open, was brought in, and I was ordered to open it. I patiently performed this, when the box was taken to Adara Bille, who examined its contents, and afterward sent it back with the order that I should shut it up again. From that moment I never saw the box, nor any other part of my property. As it was very cold, and the little fire was not of much use, I ventured to ask for my Abyssinian cloak. A soldier acquainted Adara Bille with my request, and the cloak was restored. I could not ascertain anything of my poor servants that night : the slaves, who were with me in the room, did not venture to communicate with me. The only consolation which they gave me was, that I should not be murdered, and that my people would not be sold as slaves, as I had expected. As it was already very late, and being tired and tor- mented with anxiety, I lay down on the ground ; but sleep fled from my eyes. My mind was engaged in sighing after the support of Ilim who knows the afflictions of His servants and children. I begged Hini to prcj)are me for a hapjiy entrance into the kingdom of heaven, if this should be my last night on earth. 380 ADARA BILLE's FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP The room was full of watchmen, others were posted around the outside of the house, while others watched the fence and walls, Adara Bille probably being afraid of my escape. A soldier lay over my legs, another close to my head, and one on either side : these lay upon the ends of my cloak. Believing that I had fallen asleep, as I made no movement, the soldiers be- gan to talk in the Galla Language, which they probably thought I could not understand. Some of them dis- approved of Adara Bille's behaviour, which would com- promise him in the whole countiy ; while others said, that he had done right in plundering the White Man. Others thought that I should be killed, lest Sahela Selassieh and Ras Ali should hear of what Adara Bille had done ; but others advised that I should be sent to the road of Tehooladere and Yechoo, when I should either die of fatigue on the road, or be killed by the Raia Gallas. You may suppose that this conversation was not very pleasant to me ; but I inwardly said to my Heavenly Father, " Men are all liars ; not my will, nor theirs shall be done, but only Thine." April 3, 1842 — I arose this morning with the feelings of a prisoner. But I considered myself a priso?ier of the Lord, whose cause I was sent to promote in Abys- sinia ', and resolved, however He should dispose of my life, to submit with resignation, as neither life nor property belonged to me, but only to Him. I asked for one of my servants to be admitted to my prison, in order that I might have the company of one who AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 381 could understand me iu my afflicted situation. Dimtza- Roophael, who was one of my eldest scholars at Anko- bar, was consequently allowed to converse with me, and to serve me. Through him I learned that my servants had passed a very restless night, having been deprived of nearly all their clothes ; and that they had been put into a small cottage, which did not protect them from the severe coldness of the night. The boy who was with the baggage when it was plundered by the soldiers informed Dimtza-Roophael that the soldiers came into the room with lights, took away every thing they found, and brought them before Adara Bille, who examined and counted the different articles, and then sent them to his store-house. They then took the boy and put him into the cottage where the other servants were, narrowly watched by Adara's servants. I entertained in vain the hope that I might find access to Adara Bille, in order to put him in mind of the assurance of friendship which he had given me. After sun-rise he departed, in order to meet the Gove- nor of Dair between Shoa and his territory. It ap- pears to be a custom for iidara Bille to pay a visit to the new Governor of Dair on the frontier. Habta Michael, the Governor whom I found in Dair, had been appointed by the King of Shoa only a week before I arrived there. After Adara Bille had set out, I was allowed to change my prison for my former house, and to converse with my servants, who then told mc what they had suffered last night j that they believed that I 383 ADARA BILLE'S FEIGNED FRIENDSHIP had been murdered^, and that they themselves would be sold as slaves. Their hearts were moved toward the Father of all mercy when they saw me walking into their room. When the people of the village heard of my being still alive, they came in great numbers to express their sorrow at my painful condition. There was not one person who spoke or acted rudely toward me ; even the soldiers, who were not very tender last night, were now discontent with Adara Bille's proceedings, of which the whole town disapproved. Most of them wept, and said, " He has neither father, nor mother, nor friends; and he who pretended to be his friend, has plundered him. May God prove his friend V Others said, " All earthly things are perishable. Yesterday he was a prince ; but to-day he is a prisoner." I took the op- portunity of speaking to them about the frailty of all human happiness, and that the only true happiness is communion with God. It afforded me infinite satisfaction at having regained my little New Testament. The soldier who had taken it from me, brought it back to me, and said, " Forgive me, and pray for me." I showed it to the assembled multitude, and said, " This is my greatest treasure, because this book shows me the way to my eternal hap- piness, which no robber can take from me." Several persons brought me some food, as my daily allowances were now reduced so much that they were quite insufficient for myself and servants. Among AND TREACHEROUS TREATMENT. 383 Others^ Fatima, the Chiefs head v;iie, took an interest in my distressing situation. She sent a seiTant to tell me that she could do nothing but weep ; and that she had endeavoured to dissuade Adara Bille from plunder- ing me, but had been unable to prevail on him. In fact everybody pitied me. Only Adara Bille was un- pitiful, as all my goods had fallen into his hand, nobody sharing with him, except those Mahomedan priests who pretended to have obtained a revelation on the Wodacha that Adara should plunder me, IMany persons asked me anxiously, how I should be able to reach my coun- tiy. Others said, " Do not be afraid : Adara Bille will not kill you ; your property only is lost, but not your life. You are the first stranger whom he has plun- dered; he has never done so before." Others said, "Do not be angiy, because Satan has entered into Adara Bille's heart." The robber did not return this evening from his ex- cursion. "\Mien it was dark, I was ordered to return to my prison ; but my servants were allowed to stay in our house under a strong guard of soldiers. April 4, 1842 — I was allowed to return from prison to my servants. I learned that Adara Bille had very much regretted that he had not plundered me before I went to Iman Liban. I heard also that some Chiefs had sent to him to know why he had allowed the White Man to go through his country without having killed or plundered him. Adara Bille arrived about ten o'clock ; but I was 384 ADARA bille's treacherous treatment. not admitted to his presence, though I frequently asked for an audience with him. My boy Dimtza-Roophael was ordered to be the mediator between him and my- self, in carrying messages from one to the other. I solicited very earnestly for a small sum of money, to purchase provisions on the road ; but the robber replied that it would not signify if 1 had to beg for my daily bread. Only one of my worst mules was left for me ; but I could not mount the animal, and was afterward compelled on the road to sell it for food and a lodging at night, which the Chief of a village had offered to me when I was in the greatest necessity. I made a fui'ther request for my papers. Fortunately, my Amharic Dictionary, which I had collected in Shoa mth great trouble, was restored to me, with a few let- ters. In fact, most of the paper which was written on, was restored ; while the blank paper was kept by the robber. The loss of paper afterward put me to great inconveniences, as I was obliged in consequence to abridge my remarks on the road, and to write on reeds, which were spoiled by the rain. April 5, 1842 — We were still uncertain what would become of us. Reports were spread this morning, that Adara Bille would keep my servants as his slaves, and send me off alone to a road of which nobody could give any information. This report drove my people almost to despair, and made my own heart ache so much, that I could not refrain from weeping with them. They said that they would rather die than be DEPARTURE FROM GATIRA. 385 separated from me. However, the Lord gave me strength to console my heart and that of my afflicted people. About nine o'clock a servant of Adara Bille appeared, with an order that we should leave the house, and fol- low the six soldiers, who were to conduct us beyond the territory of Adara Bille. He did not tell us which way we should be conducted, and I could not venture to ask, as Adara Bille might have become angry. Silent, and defenceless, we followed the soldiers, who went before us with spears, shields, and swords. Almost the whole population of Gatira was assembled. Most oC them wept ; others wished us a happy journey ; none praised their Chief ; and many expected a punishment from Heaven would be inflicted upon the country in consequence of the injustice shown toward strangers. At some distance from Gatira I wanted to halt till my boy Dimtza-Roophael should join our party. I thought that he had some business with Adara, and that he would soon join us ; but to my astonishment and grief I learned that the robber had detained the boy in order to show hitn the use of the stolen goods. I have reason to believe that it was partly the fault of the boy himself that he was detained. Though he had always been attached to me, and though I frequently thought tliat the Word of God was working in his heart ; yet when the hour of temptation and distress was at hand, the real state of his mind was revealed. Having received tliis intelligence from the soldiers, I s 386 MANLY BEHAVIOUR OF A BOY. gave up all hope of the boy's joming om- party. It appears that he had hidden himself when we left the house. Now I u.nderstood why Adara Bille, before I was plundered, always honoured him so much, and preferred him to my other servants. May the Lord deliver him from the snares of Satan, and from the uncleanness and dishonesty of his heart ; and may the seed of everlasting life, which for two years has been sown in his mind, preserve him from the temptation of apostacy to Mahomedanism ! As a contrast to this boy may be mentioned the manly behaviour of another, who was called by Adara Bille before we left Gatira, and asked whether he would remain with him or not. The robber flattered him with tender words and worldly preferment ; but the boy wept, and declared that Adara should kill him on the spot before he would leave his master, who had in- structed him in the Word of God. The robber then asked, whether any of my servants w^ere slaves, who would in that case have been considered as actual pro- perty, and immediately taken by the robber. The boy answered in the negative ; but seeing that Adara would not believe him, he took dust from the ground, and scattered it in the air, saying, that if he had not spoken truth he would become like the dispersed dust. The robber then sent him back to me. Adara- Bille knew that I had no slaves, as I had frequently told him that we hate slavery ; but Adara thought that I should fol- low the practice of Greeks, Armenians, and other CRUEL CONDUCT OF ADARa's SOLDIERS. 387 Abyssinian pilgrims, who sometimes take slaves to the coast to pay their passage-money. I must not forget to remark, that Adara Bille before om* departure this morning, dispatched the general of his gunners to the King of Shoa ^yith three match- lock-gims. It was evidently his intention to cover his diabolical deeds with the show of outward submission to the King of Shoa, in case his Majesty should hear of the robbery which he had committed against me. But how will this messenger and Adara Bille be aston- ished, when they learn that I have ^\Titten to his ]\Ia- jesty from the Lake Haik, describing the behaviour of Adara BiUe. If his Majesty has no share in the whole contrivance of Adara Bille, I have no doubt that my property will be restored. As long as Gatira was in our sight, we frequently looked backed to see whether the robber might not send a messenger with orders to our counter-marching to complete our destruction. We marched as fast as we could, and as quick as our guardians would allow us, as we were entirely in their hands. AVe were as de- fenceless as any one could be. We were really without staves, money, or change of clothes, according to Matt. X. One of my senants could not walk well, in con- sequence of a sore in his legs ; but the soldiers drove him on, and when he remonstrated, they said, " Are you not our cattle, with which wc can do as we like " ? As well as I could ascertain, from the position of the sun, my compass having been taken by the robber, we S 2 388 MEET WITH TAHIRj marclied north-east-east. It was now evident that Adara Bille intended to send us to the road of Tehooladere, I was quite indifferent regarding the way, as I could not lose any thing more ; and indeed I could only profit from being conducted to a road hitherto untrodden by Eu- ropeans. I was so strengthened and consoled in my mind by the word given to Abraham, Gen. xii. 1., that I could dismiss all my apprehensions of the luiknown road, its dangers, and hardships. I went on with a mind as cheerful and comforted as if no serious matter had happened. How truly says the Apostle John, that faith is the victory that overcometh the ivorld. But this faith must be a work of God in our hearts. Our road led us continually over a level country, which however was but little cultivated. In general, nature seems to have refused to the Wollo Gallas that fertile country, and that state of wealth, w^hich the Gallas enjoy in the south of Shoa. This is perhaps the reason of the thievish character for which the Wollo Gallas are truly blamed. We saw veiy few vil- lages, and the population cannot be considerable in this part of Adara Billets territory. We crossed several rivulets, which presented to us their cool and delicious water. In the afternoon we were joined on the road by the robber^s chief priest, who was returning to his village, not having obtained any new revelation concerning my party, as all our property was lost. His name is Tahir. On meeting me, he gave his compliments with a smiling THE CHIEF PRIEST OF ADARA BILLE. 389 face, and said, " If you will come with me, I will give you something to eat and di'ink ; but your servants may look out for themselves by begging in the village." I put very little confidence in the cunning man ; but he did more than I expected ; for he gave us a house, lighted a fire, it being cold and rainy, and gave me to eat and to drink as well as my servants, who did not find any thing in the ^^llage. I ate with the greatest appe- tite, being rather hungry from the confinement in the prison. The reason why I could so easily accustom mvself to the Abyssinian manner of living was, that I was obliged either to eat what was to be obtained, or to die of hunger. I should have been glad to have eaten raw meat if I had been able to procure it eveiy day. Necessity had compelled me to leave ofi" what many oriental travellers attempt from curiosity and other motives. But I think that the natives should conform to us, and not we to them. AVhat I mean is this, that many travellers appear to be very proud of being able to live like an Arab or an Abyssinian, eating with the hands, and doing away with all rules of civilized nations. But in this they are mistaken, as savages must also see in these indifferent and temporal respects the supe- riority of civilized Christian nations. It is another thing, if you are in circumstances Avhere you cannot keep up the rules of civilization ; then you must do as you can, and be content with the situation in which Pro\idence has placed you. April 6, 1812 — Early this morning we left the village 390 LEAVE THE TERRITORY OF ADARA BILLE. of our host Taliir. When saying good bye, I expressed my thanks for his hospitality, which I could not now reward, as he was well aware. He said " Never mind : it does not signify. I have my share in the property which Adara at my advice on the Wodacha has taken from you.^' He laughed, and walked oif. This is some- thing of the character of the Wollo Gallas, namely, friendly cunniugness and rapacity. About eight o'clock we crossed a rivulet, and about ten o'clock we left for ever the territory of Adara Bille, having entered into that of Berroo Loobo. We first passed Totola, the celebrated market-place of which I have spoken before. Totola means, properly speak- ing, the whole beautiful valley and district into which we had entered, having left the country of Adara. It is intersected in the middle by the river Gherado, which runs from south to north-west to the river Bashilo. On both sides of the valley is a range of hills more or less elevated, and covered with juniper-trees. These hills are covered with hamlets and villages. The whole scenery is so beautiful, that I cannot recollect ever having seen such a fine sight in Abyssinia. You can scarcely imagine that you are in Africa. The cool cli- mate — the fresh and healthy air — the green plain, watered artificially by aqueducts from the river — the activity of the inhabitants in cultivation — the quantity of cattle grazing — and the multitude of travelling mer- chants whom you meet on the road Avith their goods — all these and many other things give the place an THE RIYER BERKONA. 391 Em'opean appearance. It is a great pity that such a magnificent district of ten or fifteen miles is not in the hands of a better people and government. I waited several times to rest on the way side to see more of this pretty scene ; but om* soldiers di-ove us on, repeatedly saying, " Are you not our cattle, with which we can do as we please ? " The principal market places of Worra Kallo are, Totola, AnchaiTo, Regghe, Dawe, Kallo, and Fellano. Om' guardians said, that they were ordered to accom- pany us as far as the river Mille, where there is a wood- like wilderness, in which they evidently intended to plun- der the rest of our clothes, and thus leave us to cer- tain death. But Providence watched om* lives. About twelve o'clock we crossed the river Berkona, and entered into the territory of Tehooladere, which is governed by Amade, or Abba Shaol. The latter is the name of the Chieftain's favourite horse, which has given him the same name. The Berkona was not more than twenty feet in breadth at the part where we crossed. Its som-ces were pointed out to me as rising at the foot of a hill called Boroo, about six miles from the place where we crossed the river. Near the hill Boroo is a vil- lage called Kombolcha; therefore the people gene- rally say that the sources are at Kombolcha, where there is a marsh gi-ound. The Berkona was on our passage at a very low height of water, being about a span in depth. It runs first to the south, then turns round to the east, near Ayn Amba, and finally joins 392 DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF the Hawash in the country of the Adals. Not far from our passage^ the Berkona forms a cataract. Most of the waters of Worra Kallo joins the Berkona, a very important fact, which shows that we had passed this forenoon the watershed, being between the river Ghe- rado, which runs to the river Bashilo, which goes to the Nile, while the Berkona goes to the east to the Hawash. The continuation of the range of mountains observed in the east of Shoa is consequently the range which runs through Worra Kallo toward Ambassel, leaving the Berkona in the east, and the Bashilo in the west. This most important fact throws a great light upon our maps of Abyssinia, because the watershed of a coun- try, if it is once correctly known, throws a light upon many other subjects which are in question. Before we crossed the river Berkona, we met very providentially a merchant coming from Totola. This man being struck with the appearance of a white stranger on foot without any means of defence, drew near to us as if he were concerned about our situation and miserable appearance. Seeing this, I endeavoured to walk a little before our guardians, in order to speak to him at some distance. I acquainted him with what had occurred to me at Adara Biile's, and of his soldiers being ordered to conduct us to Ali Gongool, a Governor of Amade, the Chieftain of the tribe of Tehooladerc, into whose territory we had entered after we had crossed the Berkona. I must not forget to remark, that the only thing which we could learn from the soldiers re- FROM ADARA BILLE. 393 gardiug Adara Bille's secret^ was, that he had sent the day before ahorse as a present to Ali Gongool, and that he had probably arranged with this Governor what should be done with us on the road. The merchant therefore thought it very strange that Adara Bille had applied to this Governor, and not to Amade ; and he advised us positively to refuse proceeding with our guardians to Ali Gongool, who had no right to dispose of us without his master's knowledge; and that we should insist upon being conducted to the Chieftain himself; and if the soldiers objected to our request, that we should set up a cry, whereupon the country people would speedily bring us help and conduct us to Amade. This advice, under God's gracious direction, saved our lives; and I afterward felt most grateful to the adviser, although he soon left us, and I had nothing to reward him with, but I prayed that He who had sent the man might reward him with heavenly blessings. On this occasion I learned that the Chieftain of one tribe has no right to send a stranger under the escort of his own pcojjle beyond the frontier of another tribe, because in doing so it would appear as if he had as- sumed a superiority over the neighbouring tribe. The next Chieftain must do you justice, if you make your complaint to him of having been injured by a neigh- bouring Chief. The merchant therefore expressed his great regret at our not having ajjpealed to Berroo Loobo in going through his territory, s 5 394 DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF We approached Mofa^ the capital of Amade, which is built on a steep and high hill, from which there is a pretty view of the lake Haik, of which I shall speak afterward. The soldiers of Adara Bille observing that we were marching toward Mofa strongly objected to it, and a quarrel arose between us. We declared that we had nothing to do with Ali Gongool, who was not the lord of the country ; but they replied, that they had received orders from Adara Bille to deliver us into the hands of Ali Gongool, who would send iis with a large escort to the river Mille and to the wilderness between Tehooladere and Yechoo. As the quarrel ran high, and the soldiers drew their swords to cut us to pieces, we cried out to the people of a hamlet close to the way side. Several villagers immediately appeared, and inquired what was the matter with us. We en- treated them to conduct us to the house of Amade in order that we might acquaint him with our circum- stances. The villagers having learned our misfortunes, promised to comply with our wish ; but the soldiers ob- jected so vehemently, that we were on the eve of en- gaging with them with the weapons which the stony field furnished us. In order, however, to avoid an en- gagement, with which the duty of my message of peace in the Missionary cause would not at all agi*ee, I pro- posed to the soldiers, that they should dispatch one of their companions to inform Ali Gongool of our refusal to proceed to him. This was done ; and his answer was, that as we had already appealed to Amade, we FROM ADARA BILLE. 395 should go to him, and be content with what he should decide in our business. Ali Gongool acted prudently indeed, as his master would midoubtedly have punished him if he knew that he had executed orders received from any other Chief but by himself, and had refused people who had appealed to him. Jo}-fully, therefore, we went to Amade, who, having heard what we told him of Adara Bille, declared that he was a very wicked man, because he had not only done wi'ong in taking our property, but had also offended him by sending his soldiers through his terri- toiy, to which he had no right. Amade also declared, that if the soldiers of Adara Bille did not instantly re- turn, he would put them in prison. Concerning our- selves, he said, that we should be at liberty to go or stay wherever we liked. Adara Bille was blamed by every body who heard of our being robbed by him. Though jNIahomedans of the same nation as Adara Bille, yet they with one accord pitied our miserable situation, and took part with us. The soldiers of Adara Bille walked off immediately, without having been treated in the least as messengers of Adara Bille. We had regained our precious liberty, of which we had been deprived since our imprisonment on the 2nd of April. With feehngs of hearty thanksgivings to my pro- tecting Father in Heaven, I left the court-yard of Amade, who although he did not provide us with food as we had expected, yet had rendered us the most im- 396 DELIVERANCE OF MR. KRAPF portant service in a most satisfactory and speedy man- ner. Had I known that the matter would have been decided by Amade to my satisfaction, I would not have dispatched a servant to the Alaca of the Convent of Haik for the purpose of informing him of the circum- stances which had occured to me in Adara Bille's house. I had dispatched my man before we saw the Chieftain Amade, thinking that the soldiers might perhaps pre- vail on conveying us to Ali Gongool, who I knew would treat me according the secret orders sent to him by Adara. My man pretending to have some business in the jungle, availed himself of this opportunity to escape to Haik, while the soldiers were unaware of his ab- sence, and disclosed our plan only when it was too late for them to prevent its execution. Having appeared before Amade, they were out done in every respect, and instead of returning in triumph to their master with our clothes and other trophies of victory, they were obliged to return with grief at the strange escape of their cattle, as they had called us. Although I had now a long and difficult journey be- fore me, yet I thought very little of it, my mind being engaged in expressing my indescribable feelings of joy at the deliverance from the hands of the robber Adara Bille. What must be the joy and happiness of those who have been innocently condemned to long slavery or imprisonment ! If those who are still averse to the abolition of the slave trade, or who are only coldly co- operating with the abolitionists, could feel what I have FROM ADAHA BILLE. 397 experienced for a few daysj they would certainly exert themselves more against a practice which is truly called a monster of mankind. It appeared to me from observation, that the eastern tribes of the Wollo Gallas consist of a better set of people and government, and possess greater wealth, than the tribes of the west. The western Gallas are continually lurking on the way sides, till they observe a caravan or a single traveller. They frequently run after you to the distance of a mile, in order to inquire after the state of things of other tribes, or to learn who you are, and whither you are going. Their curio- sity is then converted into robbery, if they think them- selves strong enough to overcome the travelling party. This clearly shows a trait in their character, which is truly blamed with committing robberies and hostilities against each other. The people of the eastern tribes may be less blameable in this respect, as they have more intercoiu'se with the other parts of Abyssinia, being more concerned in carrying on some trade, for which a considerable number of market places have been selected, as I have before mentioned. Travellers have always been more protected among them ; but whether European travellers would be treated like the Abyssinians is another question. The eastern tribes also assume a greater show of dependency on the ruhr of Gondar than the western tribes do. Their rulers are principally invested with a lineal succession, and endcavoui- on this account to keep up their country in 398 SOIL OF TEIIOOLADERE. better order, and their people submit themselves more, having been accustomed to obedience for a long time to the descendants of one ruling family. This is evi- dently the case in the tribes of Worra Himano and Tehooladere. The nature of the territory of Tehooladere is most conspicuous and excellent, and gave me the appearance of those Galla countries which I have traversed in the south of Shoa. The soil of Tehooladere is excellent for cultivation, if there were only hands enough to cultivate the black fallow ground. I was told that the population of this tribe was very considerable six years ago ; but that it was considerably thinned, first, by the cholera, which raged six years ago almost over the whole of Abyssinia and the countries beyond ; secondly, by a famine which laid waste so many tracts of Abys- sinian provinces ; and finally, by a war, in which AH Marie, the former Chieftain of this tribe, was engaged with the Chiefs of Worra Kallo, Lagga Gliora, and Worra Himano, who assisted the present Chief of Tehooladere against Ali Marie, his relation, who was entitled to the government by right. The aspiring character and bravery of Ali Marie was feared and contemplated with jealousy by all the Chieftains around; and therefore it was considered practical on theii- part to plunge him into ruin. Had he been able to maintain his power, he would un- doubtedly have united all the Wollo tribes and have introduced a better system of government, for which CHARACTER OF ALI MARIE. 399 he was well qualified. But at the same time he would have become a very dangerous neighbour to the Chris- tian rulers of Abyssinia, as he showed great attachment to the Mahomedan religion, in which he was educated. He is continually mo^^ng about from one place to an- other. He has been twice in Shoa, where he has been well received and dismissed by the King with large pre- sents. He has made several attempts to regain his power in Tehooladere ; but Avithout any considerable success, as the before-mentioned Chieftains anxiously watched his proceedings and movements. His capital was on the mount Gatara, opposite to IMofa, in the south-east. I saw fi'om Mofa the walls which he has built on his almost impregnable stronghold. He has distinguished himself by personal courage and bravery, and I was assured from good authority, that he has killed in one battle nearly 300 men with his own sword ; but notAA-ithstandiug his efforts of prowess, he could not stand against the prevailing forces of three powerful Chieftains of the neighbourhood. Perhaps he will avail himself of the present confusion in Abyssinia to regain the political importance which he enjoyed for a long time among the WoUo tribes, because it is well known in Abyssinia, that a man of influence must neither boast nor despair, as he who is great to-day, may be miserable to-mon'ow. And truly Abyssinia is the coun- try which most reminds us of the frailty of thrones, splendour, honours, and wealth. Tehooladere is rich in wood, and grass for cattle. 400 CLIMATE OP TEIIOOLADERE. The climate is finer, as the country is lower than that of the western tribes, although there are some high mountains. In geographical and historical respect, it has a certain celebrity, which I will presently men- tion. I have already mentioned that the river Berkona rises in the territory of Tehooladere. The lake Haik is also situated in this territory. This lake is one of the most important lakes of Abyssinia. Its Christian popu- lation gives it still more importance. A former great king of Abyssinia had established his seat in this coun- try as I shall mention hereafter. Before I enter, how- ever, into a description of this lake, I must mention ano- ther called Ardibbo, which I have never seen marked on the maps. This lake is in the tribe of Imam Faris, whose capital is in Gherfa. This tribe is situated be- tween the country of the Danakil in the east, and Worra Kallo and Tehooladere in the west. Imam Faris is said to be frequently engaged in war with Berroo Loobo. He is in the possession of a few field-pieces, which he has bought from merchants trading to Mocha. He is on good terms with the Danakil, and his terri- tory extends as far as a journey of four days from Aussa. If a traveller could succeed in penetrating to Abyssinia by way of Aussa, the former capital of the Kings of Adel, he might be able to obtain most valu- able information of the countries between the Danakil and those Apollo tribes through which I have travelled. He might be able to throw much light on the geogra- phy of these countries of old, and by this means he THE LAKE ARDIBBO. 401 might make us better understand the accounts which we have of the annals of Abyssinia regarding the wars of its Christian rulers with the ]Mahomedan Kings of Adel. The lake Ardibbo, near Gherfa, is said to be not much less in circumference than Haik ; but there is no island in the Ardibbo. I must strongly recom- mend travellers attempting a journey to Abyssinia, to endeavour to the utmost to get in by way of Aussa, although I cannot conceal that this journey would be attended with many dangers. The traveller having arrived at Aussa from Tadjurra, could probably proceed either to Berroo Loobo of "\Yorra Kallo, or to Imam Faris of Gherfa. As the head servant of Amade, Chief of Tehoola- dere, had told us that there was a Christian village at the foot of Mofa, we resolved to pass the night at that place. From the capital of the Chief we had a very steep and long descent to the village ; but our feelings of joy and cheerfulness at ha^ing been deli- vered from the hands of Adara Bille's servants, made us forget every difficulty and fatigue. It was dark when we arrived in the village. A^'e applied to a mer- chant of Gondar, who kindly received us into his house, and provided us with food sufficient for our l)arty. Although I found only an imperfect form of Christianity among the villagers, yet I felt much easier, than was the case among the bigoted Mahomedans, with whom I had been living since my departure from 402 REPORTS RESPECTING THE ENGLISH. Shoa. I learned from my host, that a report had spread over the country that a European had arrived in Shoa with a box, in which he carried his King. Others re- ported, that the King of the INIahomedans had arrived in Shoa ; and that the Mahomedan rulers of these countries having heard of the report, were going to send a message to the king, who came from the east, to offer their assistance to him against the Christians. These reports evidently allude to the arrival of the British Embassy in Shoa. Other parts of Abyssinia are full of strange reports regarding the English. CHAPTER, III. ARRIVE AT THE LAKE HAIK — DESCRIPTION OF THE LAKE— VISIT TO A CONVENT ON AN ISLAND IN THE LAKE — NOTICES OF THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE ISLAND — POPULATION— ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. — DEPARTURE FROM LAKE HAIK — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF BORA — HIGH MOUNTAINS IN THE VICINITY OF BORA — ORIGIN OF THE NAME TEHOOLADERE — LEAVE BORA, AND CROSS THE RIVER MILLE — THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL — ARRIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF WOKRA KALLO, AND HALT AT THE VILLAGE OF LEEBSO — KIND RECEPTION — DEPARTURE FROM LEEBSO — CROSS THE RIVER ERGEBBO — FEROCIOUS CHARACTER OF THE RAIA GALLAS — COFFEE TREE ON THE BANKS OF THE RIVER ERGEBBO — CHARACTER OF THE YECHOO PEOPLE — RE- MARKS ON ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY — SINGULAR CUSTOM OF THE YECHOO WOMEN — IMMENSE PLAINS IN THE YECHOO COUNTRY — CROSS THE RIVER MERSA — MANNER OF PLANTING PEPPER — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MERSA — HOSPITABLE RECEPTION — CONVERSATION WITH MAHOMEDANS— DEPARTURE FROM MERSA — SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOMS — ARRFVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHELTE — DIFFICULTIES IN PROCURING ACCOMMODATION — MARKET OF WOLDAIA — VILLAGE OF GOODDO — AP- PEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SHAL — CONVERSATION WITH A WOMAN— LEAVE SHAL — AFTER SOME DELAY REACH THE PROVINCE OF ANGOT— CLIMATE OF ANGOT — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF SARAGADEL — LEAVE SARAGADEL, AND REACH THE VILLAGE OF DELDEI. April 7, 1842 — This morning the merchant with whom I had passed the night, started early from his home to visit the market of Ancharro, which I have mentioned before. He promised to send some intelHgencc to Shoa through merchants of AUo Amba in Efat, whom lie 404 ARRIVE xVT LAKE HA IK : would see at AnchaiTO. I regretted that I was unable to give him a copy of the Holy Scriptvu-es, as he had expressed a great desire for it ; but I will send some copies through people going from Shoa to the lake Haik. The village, the name of which I have unfor- tunately forgotten, consists chiefly of trading inhabi- tants, who are all Christians. Their trade is carried on from Gondar through Worra Himano to the country of Berroo Loobo and to the territory of the Yechoos, ^\ith articles which are found at Gondar. Having taken leave of our friend, we directed our course to the lake Haik. The road led us through a most beautiful and fertile valley, being rich of trees, grass, and rivulets. The soil was chiefly black ; but it is scantily cultivated, for the reasons which I have be- fore mentioned. They principally cultivate maize of diff"erent kinds. ]\Iy joy on arriving near the shores of the lake was indeed great, as I had been desirous several years of visiting the Christians on the lake, and as the large mass of water reminded me again of the water-stock of the Red Sea, to which I had so often committed myself in former times, and to which the end of my joiu'ney would bring me again. How great will be the joy of a Christian, when, having overcome death, and triumphed over this visible world, he arrives on the stream of heavenly happiness, and when he is with those Christians who will enjoy this happiness to all eternity ! DESCRIPTION OF IT. 405 The Alaca of the Convent of Haik had been already informed of my occurences with Adara Bille, with whom he is personally acquainted. But when I arrived, I did not find him at home, as he was gone out on the principal road to the Yechoo country, believing that Adara's soldiers would not allow me to see him in lake Haik. He came to this conclusion from the circum- stance that I did not arrive yesterday evening, when he had expected me immediately after the arrival of my previous messenger. Not being permitted to cross over to the island in the lake without the Alaca's special orders, I was obliged to wait on shore till he returned. In the mean time I was engaged in con- templating the shores and the very interesting country around, and in inquiring after the state of things on the island. The multitude of people also, who assem- bled soon after my arrival, gave me an opportunity of speaking on many topics ; so that my long waiting for the Alaca was no lost time. The shores of the lake in the west and north are not high, nor steep ; but those of the south and east are sm-rounded by high and steep mountains. The circumference of the lake may amount to forty-five English miles. Several bays are observed extending inland a few hundred yards. The greatest extent of water is from east to west. The lake is full of water birds of different plumage. I was also told that it is rich in fish of a large size. The water is sweet, as may be expected from being a land-sea. The island, called 406 VILLAGE OF DEBRA-MARIAM. Debra-Nagoodguad, (hill of thunder), is distant from the north-western main land about 260 yards, and might easily be battered by rifle-men. The anchoring place is called Mad-gebata, and the village, where you must halt before crossing over to the island, is called Debra-Mariam (hill of Mary.) This village is chiefly inhabited by the wives of such priests who are married, as by an ancient law no female is allowed to enter on the island. All the inhabitants around are Mahome- dans, who are not prevented however from visiting the island ; but their wives are under the same restrictions as those of the Christians. A number of acacia-trees are observed near the anchoring place, between the village and the lake. These trees afford a pleasant shade to those who must wait for the rafts taking them over to the island. The eastern mountains of the lake are inhabited by the tribe Worra-Babbo, which is governed by the Chief Ali Adam, who is dependent on Iman Liban. There is but little wood around the lake, except in the south-east, which is far off from the island ; but the inhabitants of the island cross the lake on rafts to fetch wood. Beyond the tribe Worra-Babbo is another tribe in the east, called Chaffat, and is independent. In the east of Chaffat is the country of the Danakil. The old Alaca Debille at last returned. I was de- lighted at seeing him again. I had made his acquain- tance a year ago, when he called upon me at Ankobar. I sent at that time a copy of the Amharic New Testa- VISIT THE ISLAND OF DEBRA NAGOODGNAD. 407 ment to tlie churcli of the island. I also gave him a copy of the iEthiopic New Testament when I met him at Dair. Thus my name was pretty well known in Haik, as well as the object of my stay in Shoa. The Alaca took me over to the island on a raft, composed of a thick stratum of reeds. The raft was about twelve or fifteen feet in length, and about three or four feet in breadth. The whole stratum of reeds is tied together with ropes at both ends, and in the middle. Two rowers moved this curious machine, which carries about SLX men over to the island. The depth of the water increases with the distance from the shore. About one hundred yards from the main land the water is very deep till almost close to the island. I was told that on most places of the lake the bottom cannot be found; but although I would not object to this, I doubt whether they have ever taken the trouble to examine the depth of their lake, especially as they are unacquainted with the plummet. The western and northern winds raise high waves on the lake ; while the winds blowing from cast and south are prevented by the high mountains from displaying their full power over the water-heaps of the lake. As to the rise and formation of the lake, I am at a loss how to explain, as I could not learn whether there is any volcanic action in the neighbourhood, nor could I discover volcanic traces from the nature of the country around. I could not however examine the eastern and southern shores, being too far off from the island ; and 408 ABUNDANCE OF WATER-BIRDS. I do not venture to judge from rocks scattered around the village Debra Mariam, as these may be ascribed to the destructive power of the violent annual rains. In my ojnnion, an observer should be careful in drawing a conclusion for the existence of former volcanos from his perceiving stones scattered around, as it is well kno\\Ti, which I could prove by facts, that the rains have demolished considerable hills. A traveller of late, who has not however been in Abyssinia dm-ing the rainy season^ seems to me to have been greatly mis- taken when he seemed to observe nothing but vol- canic traces in Shoa. It must be remarked, that the name " Haik " is a general expression, and means in JEthiopic " sea, " or rather " shore." I should think that this lake is in a straight line from Ankobar, perhaps a little more to the east. I did not observe that there were any shells on the shore, nor did I hear that there were on other parts of the coasts. There is plenty of grass in the water, where it is not of considerable depth ; and this is the place where the water birds are gathered in immense numbers, so that one shot would aflFord a great booty to the sportsman, if the prejudices of the inhabi- tants of the island would allow you to fire a gun. Their conviction of the sanctity of the island, in conse- quence of Tecla Haimanot's having resided on it, and blessed the water, seems to have produced this preju- dice. The same prejudice would be in your way if you attempted to kill a bird on the island, though I VISIT TO THE CHURCH OF ST. STEPHEN. 409 saw there several trees, on the branches of which was such a multitude of vultures, that I wondered the branches were not broken. Having arrived on the Island with the Alaca, I was first conducted to his house, and then to the Church consecrated to St. Stephen. It must be remarked, that this is not St. Stephen, the first martyr mentioned Acts ^•iii., but Abuna Stephen, who governed the Church of Abyssinia at a former period. The Church is rather large ; and the inside is embellished with the images of many saints and angels. St. George on horseback killing the dragon — the Virgin Mary hold- ing the child Jesus in her arms — St. Michael, &c., arc principally distinguished among the multitude of pic- tures. The priests also showed me the grave of their St. Stephen, and related of him many stories and mira- cles, as might be expected from an Abyssinian Saint, whose holiness and claim to esteem, in the eyes of an ignorant people, are entirely founded on such stories. The people of Haik, I was told, worshipped a ser])eut till Abuna Salama-Qaasieb came to the island and con- verted them to Christianity. Afterward, the island, or rather the hill Debra Egsier in the east of Haik, was the seat of King Del-Naod, who came from Tigre about the year 960 of the Christian a3ra. If this fact is true, w^e might be led to suppose that Del-Naod did not reside in Shoa, as other histories of Abyssinia tell us. It is well known to European readers, that Del-Naod was the son of Aizor, King of the ancient T 410 NOTICES OF THE EARLY HISTORY line, wliicli is derived from Menelec, the son of Solo- moiij by Maqueda, the Queen of Saba. At the time of King Aizor, the Jewish party is said to have been power- ful in Abyssinia, and when the King died, Gideon and his wife Judith, leaders of this party, are said to have killed 400 royal princes on the mount Damo in Tigre, which was at that time the state-prison for the royal issue. However, Aizor^s son, called Del- Naod, found means, through the assistance of the nobility which adhered to the family of Menelec, to escape to Shoa. As I do not find any place mentioned and selected for this prince in Shoa, I might not ob- ject to his having resided on the Island of Haik, as this was indeed one of the best places he could choose for his security. About 400 years afterward, the Island was visited by Icon Amlak, as I was informed ; although this would not quite agree with the time when Icon Amlak is generally admitted to have lived; viz. 1268. This prince was restored to the possession of the ancient dominions of the Solomonean family by Tecla Haima- not, the celebrated founder of the order of friars of Debra Libanos in Shoa. He had the seat of his em- pire at Tegulet, which seems to have been made the capital of Shoa by the descendants of Del-Naod, if he did not reside there himself. Icon Amlak expelled the women from the Island, establishing there a monks^ cloister, which received lands around the Island. 333 tracts of land were OF THE ISLAND OF DEBRA NAGOODQUAD, 411 granted to the clim-cli of St. Stephen, and 333 other pieces of land were given to the Convent. But all these benefits have now been withdi-awn by the G alias, who possessed themselves of the whole country around. These Gallas, however, who are Mahomedans, and speak only Amharic, and belong to the tribe of Tehoo- ladere, are at peace with the Haikians ; yea, they respect the inhabitants of the Island, as it ])rovcs a refuge for them and their property in time of war with other tribes. The monks hire tracts of land from the Gallas, which they cviltivate for their daily maintenance. The islanders must provide the Chief of Tehooladere with gesho— a plant used by the Abyssinians instead of otir hops in preparing beer — lemons, and also money ; as the Gallas around believe that immense treasures are hidden on the Island. The monks of the Convent appear to be very poor at present, as their former benefits are gone. Several princes of Abyssi- nia, however, support the Convent. The KingofShoa also sends money and clothes to Haik from time to time, probably in remembrance of his ancestors having being preserved on that island from the slaughter of Damo, and in the hope of obtaining a particular bless- ing fi'om the prayers of a monk's congregation, which has the reputation of extraordinary holiness and hca- venly-mindedness. The population of the Island amounts, as I was told by the Alaca, to 350 souls, consisting of monks, priests, scholars, and sen-ants. Before the Gallas abridged 412 TRADITION RESPECTING TECLA HAIMANOT. them of the ancient benefits^ the population amonnted to upward of 1000 souls. Abba Salama, who converted the Haikians to Chris- tianity, brought a Tabot (holy ark) from Jerusalem with many other curiosities, such as, pieces of the Cross of Christ, and the sponge mentioned in the Gospels ; but King Zara- Jacob sent these things to the high mount Geshano, of which I shall speak afterward. Abuna Yasoos, who came 400 years after the Haikians had been converted to Christianity, blessed the lake by expelling all the evil spirits residing in the water. These took flight and estabhshcd their residence in the lake Ardibbo. It may be expected that the most celebrated Abys- sinian Saint, Tecla Haimanot, cannot be missing in a place where the ignorant, superstitious, and cunning priesthood wants his miracles to give some additional holiness to the place, to deceive the simple lay-man, and to cover their hypocrisy with the cowl of an odd fellow like Tecla Haimanot. When he arrived on the western shore of the lake, he pulled oiF his shoes, and walked on the water like Christ did as mentioned in the Gospel of St. Matthew. A rose-tree grew up on the spot where he had left his shoes. The large pitcher, in which Tecla Haimanot brewed his beer, is still exist- ing ; and also the place where he prepared his bread. Both objects were shown to me. The vessel has been manufactured from iron, which is covered with clay, and preserved from falling off by means of a skin tied ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. 413 around the vessel. Tecla Haimanot brought the date- tree from Jerusalem ; but he seems to have forgotten to teach the islanders how to treat these trees. There are about fifteen or twenty on the island; but they do not produce any fi-uit, the inhabitants being unac- quainted with the treatment of these trees. The spiritual father of Tecla Haimanot was called Abuna Yasooma^ who educated the lad, made him a monk, and sent him to Debra Libanos in Shoa, to con- vert the pagans. Tecla Haimanot had been twelve years in Haik. Abuna Yasooma liked him so much, that he called him his father from the following circum- stance. Tecla-Haimanot was one day stirring up A\'ith his hands a hot panado in a vessel without hm-ting himself in the boiling water. Yasooma seeing this, ex- claimed, " I have thought that you were my son, and I yom* father ; but now I find that you are superior to me ; henceforth I am your son." The Island has almost a square form, and is about two miles in circumference. The Order of the INIonks is that of the celebrated ]\Ionk Aragawi, who lived in Debra Dano, in Tigre. There rules arc those which are prescribed in the book of the Monks — IMatzhafa Monakosat, written in iEthiopic. The islanders do not agree with the innovations which have been made in other parts of Abyssinia. They do not believe in the three births of Christ, nor do they maintain that the human soul has any knowledge in the womb. With regard to the establishment and internal ceo- 414 ACCOUNT OF THE MONKS, &C. nomy of the Convent, I have obtained from the Alaca the following information : — Each friar receives daily one cake of bread from the common baker, who receives the meal, wood, &c., from the common stock ; and a quantity of beer from the common brewhouse, where the vessel of Tecla Haimanot still renders excellent service. The common funds are very scanty at present ; so that if an individual should want more, he must provide it at his own expence ; but these additions must be pre- pared publicly in the common bakehouse or brewhouse, to which the materials must be delivered. They are not allowed to prepare food, &c. in their own houses ; and if any were to transgress this regulation, he would be excommunicated by the Alaca. Clothes are also siven from the common stock. Each Monk has a share in the lands, which are, however, at "present in the hands of the Gallas. These lands are hereditary ; but the son cannot obtain the share of his father, unless he become a Monk. A married man may live a long time on the Island ; but as soon as he tm-ns Monk, he must divorce his wife. Priests and Deacons are not bound to do this ; but they must leave their wives on shore, and only \dsit them at certain times. Each Monk or Priest has a few boys, whom he uses as his servants, and edu- cates for priests or monks, that they may be received into the Order of the Convent, and become sharers in the common benefits. The principal business of the friars is to say the prayers prescribed by their books. Strangers and visitors are accommodated at the public & OF THE CONVENT OF IIAIK. 415 expence ; but they can only be introduced by tlie Alaca, whose servants watch on shore, and inform him of the arrival of visitors. This is particularly the business of the steward, whom the Alaca has located in the village of Debra Mariam, to which a stranger has first to go. Then the steward cries out fi'om the shore to the Island, where other servants of the Alaca have to watch. The leaders of the whole establishment are as follow : 1. The head of the whole island. 2. The Alacas of the Church and Convent. 3. Afa jMamcr. 4. Megabi. 5. Safari. 6. Tamaki. Each is subject to the person superior to himself. There may be about 100 houses, each being for a Monk, with a few boys. Each house has a little garden, surrounded by a fence. The streets are vei*y narrow ; but the whole appearance of the Island, which, I should think, is about 5000 feet about the level of the sea, certainly affords some of the finest scenery in Abyssinia. The climate is veiy agreeable, being neither too hot nor too cold. The heat is always tempered by the sea breeze. Indeed, the Island appears to be suitable for persons who wish to live a sorrowless life ; which is the principal thing desired by an Abyssinian saint or monk. Were these Islanders real Christians in their doctrines and lives, they would undoubtedly be able to contribute a great deal to the propagation of Christianity in Abys- sinia and beyond it ; but at present they arc, in my judgment, complete hypocrites ; being a proud, ignorant, beggar-like, raving, and worldly-minded people, who 416 ACCOUNT OF THE MO^'KS, &C. cannot be the salt of the earth. All my conversation, tending to the reception of the Word of God, and the conversion of our hearts to the living God and Saviour, were instantly counteracted by their turning the dis- course to the miracles of their saints, to the sanctity of the Convent, in consequence of Tecla Haimanot having resided on the island, and to begging for property. The Alaca Debille is the best of all, being less ignorant and less beggar-like. He is respected by the G alias, whom he knows how to treat properly. He is very open to explanations derived from the light of the pure Word of God. I dare say that he would have liked me to stay with him for some time : indeed, he requested me to do so, although there was no prospect of his being rewarded for his hospitality, as I was without any means. A quantity of the Holy Scriptures might be deposited on the Island, as people from all quarters of Abyssinia are continually flocking to the Convent, and as the route to Tigre leads by way of Haik, which is only seven or ten days' journey distant from Ankobar. I have forgotten to remark above, that the rafts crossing over to the main land are every evening placed on the Island for the sake of precaution ; so that the islanders are always secured against a sudden attack. After sun-set the rowers cease from work. They loosen then the ropes and take the reeds to the Island, where they tie them up again on the next morning, when they are quite dry. A strange Navy indeed, which is to be seen here in its first and weak beginning ! OF THE CONVENT OF ITAIK. 417 As the Alaca had invited me to pass the night in his house, I readily complied with his wish. He pro- \'ided me and my servants with food. The beer^ how- ever, was so strong, that I refused to drink much of it, being apprehensive that it would disagree with me. It was veiy bitter, or rather sour, having been prepared with too large a quantity of gesho. I had already heard on the road that the beer of Haik was too strong, and therefore not liked by the Gallas around. April 8, 1842 — The Alaca Debille introduced me this morning to Wolda Georgis, the head of the Island of Haik. He appeared to be a coldly-minded man. When he heard of my misfortunes, he said, " You have no property ; but when you have reached your country, you will get some." Fancy, what a miserable consola- tion this was. I left him after a few minutes. Havinf*- returned from my visit, I wrote a letter to the King of Shoa and to his Excellency Capt. Harris, the Britisli Ambassador, informing them of what had occurred. The Alaca Debille advised me to return secretly to Shoa by way of AVorra Kalla, or to send a message to Berroo Loobo, who would restore my property ; but I would not desist from ])rosecuting my way to IMassowah whatever further might occur to me on the road. The best plan I conceived was to depart from Haik as quickly as possible, and to put the matter respecting- J;he lost property into the hands of the King and the British Ambassador. As this day was Friday, I was obliged to cross o\(r T ,5 418 DEPARTURE FROM LAKE HAIK. from the island to the main land, the rafts not moving on Saturday and Sunday, on account of the sanctity of these days. I wanted to pass the night in the house of a Debtera ; but he positively refused me, saying, that he was too poor to give me any thing to eat in the evening. I knew that he told me a falsehood. To speak the truth, the Haikians have not recommended themselves in treating me properly, except the Alaca Debille, although they know me very well from Anko- bar, and would be certain of a good reward on my return to Shoa. I first despatched three of my servants with letters to Shoa, as I could not take them all to IMassowah. It was a heartfelt sight when the three men took leave of me, having been companions from the begin- ing of my tribulation. They wept excessively, and I could not myself refrain from shedding tears. They then went down on their knees, begging for pardon, if they had given ofience in any way ; and then requir- ed a blessing from me. These moments will not very soon be effaced from my memory. They were ex- tremely sorry for my sending them back, although they knew that I could not provide for them on the road. At last they went their way, and we prosecuted ours in the direction of north-east ; but being already too late to go a considerable distance, we went to the village Bora, in the district Wordai, distant about five miles from the lake. Here we found a Debtera, who received us kindly and provided us with whatever his HIGH MOUNTAINS OF BORA. 419 circumstances would admit. He is the only Christian inhabitant of the place, all the others being Mahonie- dans. I shall not forget to reward him if he comes to Ankobar, as he has done his duty toward his fellow- creature in affliction and poverty. He stated that he had seen me at Ankobar, and that he was glad of ha\'ing been enabled to render me a little ser^dce, and of making his personal acquaintance vnih me. Several high mountains were visible in the neigh- bourhood of Bora to the north and north-west, the highest of which is Sagarat, on the northern foot of which the river Bashilo was said to rise. This would not be far from the sources of the Berkona. Sagarat belongs to the territory of Imam Liban, and the sources were to be placed between the territory of Iman Liban and that of Yechoo. I have no doubt that the high mountain of Sagarat, and the whole ridge of hills branching to south and north, form the water shed in this part of Eastern Abyssinia, and is endently the continuation of the famous range of mountains which I have frequently mentioned in my Jom-nal. Tehooladere is said to have derived its name from a priest called Teclo, coming from God, and who lived in the countiy before the Gallas had taken possession of it. As he was a man of great influence, and princi- pally feared and respected for his magical reputation, the country was called Tehooladere, the word Tcclo having been corrupted into Tehool. Adare is for Adara —he rested — passed his time — Tecloo Adare — Teclo 420 THE RIVER MILLE. passed his time (in this country). Perhaps the whole story has been contrived by an idle monk of Haik, in order to give more celebrity to the Convent, which had formerly enjoyed an influential man like Teclo. In general, the learned Abyssinians being fond of mysti- cal interpretations, are prompt to find out a meaning for every thing, unconcerned whether their ex])lanation is affected, or forces a laugh or not. Ajrril 9, 1842 — This morning, about six o'clock, we left Bora and our kind host, Debtera Atkoo. He gave us some provisions for the road. From Bora we had to descend a little into the pretty ^ alley of the river Mille, which rises on the northern end of the mountain Mofa, and runs toward the countiy of the Adals. This river separates the territory of Tehooladere from that of Am- bassel and Yechoo, The course of the river Mille to the east, and that of the river Bashilo in the west, shows that the mountains of jMofa and Sagarat form the watershed, and are the continuation of the famous range which surrounds Eastern Abyssinia like a girdle. In the east of this range you enjoy a milder climate, which gets hot the more you descend toward the coun- try of the Danakil. This descent takes place over little hills and valleys almost impassable on account of thorns and otlier kinds of wood. We crossed the river Mille about seven o'clock. It runs through a most beautiful valley, being rich in trees and grass, and a good soil for cultivation ; but notwithstanding this, the valley is neither cultivated THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL. 421 nor inhabited^ but left a complete wilderness. I have never seen such a variety of birds, of the most beauti- ful plumage, as in this valley, and I am sure that a good collection could be made for zoology. The bed of the river is of considerable breadth; but its real breadth, where there was water and where we crossed, was only fifteen feet and a quarter in depth ; but it must be remarked, that this was the hot season of the year. The river runs north-east-east, and we followed its course for a distance of a few miles, till we took a more northern direction in the ^■icinity of the mountain Ambassel, from which the tribe and the whole country around has its name. The height and steepness of this mountain raises the greatest astonishment. It is one of the most important strongholds of Abyssinia, which, if well guarded, woidd be able to check a large army for a considerable time, as there is only one road, which is steep and dangerous, leading to the top, where there is a plain with water and good ground for cultivation. This mountain was for some time the state-prison of the former Emperors of Abyssinia. Tlie royal princes were frequently confined on this stronghold, which is not far from that of mount Geshano (not Geshen) which is in the north-west from Ambassel, as well as I could ascertain without the compass. Besides these mountains, those of Damo in Tigi-e, and Wcihne in the west of Abyssinia, were selected for the imprisonment of the royal issue. The present Governor of Ambassel is Ali Boroo, a 422 THE MOUNTAIN AMBASSEL. Mahomedan. Most of his subjects have turned Maho- medans. He is completely independent, as no Abys- sinian force can compel him to make submission to any one of the principal rulers of Abyssinia. He shows however great attachment to the Muhamedo, i. e. to Iman Liban, who is considered the head of the Ma- homedan party. Ali Boroo has lately sent a detach- ment of troops to assist the Imam against the invading forces of Berroo Aligas and of his brother Faris, Gover- nor of Yechoo (not Edjoo). The mountain Ambassel has several high and pro- minent peaks, and extends from south to north with a little east. It is about nine or twelve miles in extent from south to north. Its banks in many places resem- ble walls of an immense height, and I doubt whether the ball of a cannon of the best calibre would reach the top of the mount. This stronghold would be of the most decided importance in a better military sys- tem of Abyssinia, in order to secure its eastern fron- tiers against the Gallas and Danakil, who could be conquered mth the greatest ease by a small detach- ment of regular troops starting from Ambassel. In general, my road from Shoa to Tigre has convinced me that Eastern Abyssinia is almost unconquerable, and would be so if its rulers once adopted the European military system. Having crossed the river Mille, we entered into the districts of Seeba and Goombisa, through which the Mille runs, whereupon it is lost in the sandy deserts ARRIVE AT WORRA KALLO. 423 of Adel. Both districts belong to the tribe of Ambas- sel. Having passed the district of Seeba, we traversed the district of "Woochale, in which we travelled through a village called by the strange name Sekdat-teherk. On enquiring after its meaning, I learned that the inhabitants formerly used and manufactured clothes from the wool of black sheep, which is called in Amhai'ic Sekdat ; but having become acquainted with cotton and the manufacturing of it, they relinquished the use of black clothes, which they then considered as Teherk, i. e. rags ; thus dishonouring the improved state of the skill of their countrymen. Having traversed Woochale we came to the district of Worra Kallo in Yechoo, which must be well distinguished from "Worra Kallo in the AA'oUo country, which is governed by Berroo Loobo, as I have stated above. We halted a little in Worra Kallo in order to beg for some provisions, as we were very hungry. In a village, called Leebso, we met two Mahomedans, who had lately arrived from their pilgrimage to Mecca. They spoke favourably of the Europeans whom they had seen in Massowah and Jidda. The large Indian vessels had particularly astonished them. One of the Hadjees asked, why the Christians did not allow a woman who had brought forth a child to go out of her house before forty days had elapsed. I replied, that this was an Abyssinian practice, derived from the Je^vish law, which was not observed by us, except so far as the New Testament approved of it. This matter 434 KIND RECEPTION IN THE led US to an explanation of the difference between the word of man and that of God. I was sorry that I could not give him an Arabic Bible, as he understood the Arabic language pretty well. As it was late when we arrived in the village, and having been overtaken by a violent rain, we took the liberty of entering into the nearest house on the way side, and asked the proprietor for a night's lodging. Having entered the house, I observed a tall man nearly naked, sitting on the gi-ound in his room. His long black hair, dark face, grave posture, and, in fact, his whole appearance gave me the impression of a head- breaker, and hangman's servant, from whom we had little to expect. He looked upon us with fierce and ferocious eyes, and did not speak a word, nor return our salutation. I was really a little afraid of him. However, I attempted to gain his heart by entering into a conversation, showing no sort of fear. I first related the disastrous occun-ence with Adara Bille, which affected him so much, that he became more open and familiar, and felt some compassion for our afflicted condition. I asked for a night's lodging, when he ordered me to sit down on a skin which he himself spread on the gi'ound, and bid his wife prepare supper. When this was ready, he invited me and my servants to partake of it, which consisted of a fieiy pepper soup, raw meat, and teff-bread. "WTiile we sat at table, he several times made excuses for not being able to treat us better, as he had been obliged to leave his country VILLAGE OF LEEBSO. 425 in consequence of war, and had not yet been properly established in Leebso. His invitation was quite super- fluous, as we were so hungry that we could eat any thing ; as the proverb says : — " Hunger is the best sauce." We had no longer the least fear of the man, whose looks had almost induced us to leave his house and to seek elsewhere for a night's lodging, although the rain fell down in torrents. After we had finished supper, we were requested by our host to sleep on whatever place we could find in his room, which was full of men, horses, donkeys, and fowls. The rain was also coming in. This however did not signify in the least, and we knew how to manage the business, the principal thing had been the food. I was not a little rejoiced in iny mind at this good reception, and I said to my people, " A^Tiat a shame it is that we put so little confidence in our heavenly Father, who has accommodated us better than when I had still my own means." Really we starved more near the river Bashilo, when I was able to buy my o\vn pro- visions. Although we had not here the abundance which we had with the Queen Dowager in Zalla Dengai, yet our food was sufficient to satisfy our hungry bodies, and to require more we are not entitled by the prayer. Give us our daily bread. A circumstance which I always experienced during the whole subsequent jour- ney to the coast, was, that whenever I intended to get more by begging in the villages than was requisite for 426 DEPARTURE FROM LEEBSO. one day, we were entirely disappointed, that I should not care anxiously for the wants of the next day. April 10, 184'2 — Early this morning we departed from Leebso, moving toward Mcrsa, a celebrated village, inhabited chiefly by merchants of the Yechoo countiy, into which we entered yesterday afternoon on arriving at Worra Kallo. Having jn'oceeded on our way for about half an horn' we were overtaken by a heavy rain, which compelled us to seek for shelter under trees, no house being ^isible in the whole neighbourhood. The second rainy season — between February and April — appears to be heavier in these regions than in Shoa. Perhaps the mountainous country, which must be always clouded, contributes to this phenomenon. It is a fact, that where there is high land in Shoa, the rains are more fi'equent and heavier. We were in a large valley, a complete wilderness, though it might nourish many thousand of inhabitants. The acacia-trees and bushes were in such abundance that we lost our road several times, and were entirely at a loss how to extricate our- selves. The mountains around were quite clouded, so that we were unable to find and correct our direction, which was pointed out to us by our kind host at Leebso. We did not know whether we should not fall into the hands of the Gallas and Danakils, who dwell ou the eastern end of the wilderness ; or whether we should be attacked by ferocious beasts, against which we had no weapons of defence. Fortunately, however, the rain ceased, and the clouds were dispelled, and with these CROSS THE RIVER ERGEBBO. 427 our embarrassments were dispersed, as we could now distinguisli the mountain which we should pursue. However, the nolent rain had made the slight soil so slippery, that I frequently fell down. The vapourous air besides and the thorns made our walking very incon- venient. About nine o'clock we crossed the river Ergebbo, which runs to the country of Adel, as is the case with all the rivers rising in the east of the famous range of mountains in Eastern Abyssinia. Probably there is a large river down below toward the country of Adel, a river which may take up all the rivers, brooks, and rills, of which we passed several since we passed the river ]\Iille yesterday. This river, which probably re- ceives the waters of Yechoo, Lasta, and Agow, is most likely the upper course of the river Anazo marked on the maps. It may be the general conductor of the mighty reservoir of water which is contained in the mountain range so frequently mentioned. The Ha- wash takes up all the waters coming from the cast of the water shed of Shoa and AA'orra Kallo; why should we not therefore be allowed to suppose, that a companion of the II awash takes up the numerous water tributes of Yechoo and Lasta, collects these tri- butes to one common stock, and conveys them to the coast ; but that the long journey through the sand of Adel prevents it from reaching the Red or Indian Sea, as is also the case with the llawash. Had I been able to take my route through the country of the ferocious 428 FEROCIOUS CHARACTER Raia Gallas, as I intended to do, I should have ob- tained more particulars for or against this opinion. The Gallas have intraded themselves around the whole eastern girdle of Abyssinia, between the Danakil and Abyssinians. They live at enmity with both these nations, although they have adopted the Mahomedan religion. In the east of the great plain which we tra- versed, there are several tribes which pay tribute to the Governor of Yechoo ; namely, the Chorre, Logana, and Boorra tribes. It must be observed, that the Yechoos are not Gallas nor Pagans, as it would appear from Mr. Bruce's work. At least, at present, they are Christians, and speak Amharic ; and I did not find that their fea- tm-es are the same -nith other Gallas. Probably Mr. Bruce, who although the best ^rriter on Abyssinia, yet is sometimes greatly mistaken, took those tribes which are dependent on Yechoo for Yechoos themselves. In the north of these tribes toward Lasta and Agau are the Ana and Raia Gallas^ who could not be subjected by the Abyssinians on account of their mountains, which appeared from a distance to extend to the very sky. The Raia Gallas, of whom I shall speak fre- quently hereafter, are the most ferocious set of people, plundering and murdering for the sake of pleasure. They are divided into several small tribes, which dwell in the higher and lower countries of their mountains. The mountain ridge which they inhabit, probably ex- tends a himdi-ed miles from the south to north-east. There they watch the opportunity of carrying terror OP THE RAIA GALLAS. 429 and death against the lower countries in the east and west. If the traveller had not to fear this inhuman set of people, he would be able to reach Tigre in a much shorter time; and the route between Shoa and Massowah would be considerably abridged. But thus the traveller is compelled to take a long and tiresome route through the country of Lasta and Wag, on account of the Raia Gallas lurking like Hons at the foot of their mountains. On the banks of the river Ergebbo I saw the coffee tree. It was about fourteen feet in height. The leaves were very long, and the husk of the fruit, which was not yet ripe, red and sweet. Coffee is not dear here, as the INIahomedans plant as much as they want for themselves, the Christians refusing to drink from reli- gious motives. Mersa is the point where Christians begin to be- come frequent, and their number increases to the foot of the Yechoo mountains, where the Mahomedan power was seldom felt. The Christians and the people of Yechoo in general are said to be good, simple, and hos])itable. This testimony a])pears to be true to a certain extent. Since I had left Shoa and been without means, I had not been so well treated as in Yechoo. It appears that they have kept up much of the ancient Abyssinian manners. Their mountainous country sepa- rated them from the intercourse and political move- ments of other Abyssinian provinces, and this circum- stance contributed much to the preservation of their for- mer character. Their hospitality may Ik- j)artly ascribed 430 REMARKS ON to the great wealth which they enjoy. They have every thing that an Abyssinian wants in abundance. They have a beautiful soil for cultivation, a soil which will produce all that they want. Having been in circumstances which rendered me independent, as well as entirely dependent on Abyssi- nian hospitality, I am able I think to be a competent judge of what that hospitality is, which by many writers has been overrated. As long as you have property, and appear to be a great man in their eyes, you will be well received every where, as they calculate upon a payment more than double the value of what you receive. They also expect that the stranger will give a handsome pre- sent in return. If he does not give a present, he will certainly not meet vnth a civil reception should he come again to the house of the same host. Abyssinian hospitality is intended, in most cases, with the view of obtaining great profit. It is true, that in Shoa and in some other places a traveller has little to reflect how he shall reward his host, he being compelled by royal orders, to treat the stranger well. If you are a poor man, you may in some cases be well received ; but the Abyssinian in his hospitality merely seeks his own in- terest. He gives you to eat and drink for his soul's sake, as he says. The Abyssinians believe that if they give a few loaves of bread and some horns of beer to an afflicted stranger, God will admit them to His par- ticular favour, and that He will forgive all their sins. Others will receive you for the sake of curiosity, as ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY. 431 they perhaps seldom or ever see a white man, believing that he comes from Jerusalem. They think that the reception of such a stranger into their house will give them an opportunity of asking questions about this holy city ; questions which are sometimes so foohsh and childish, that you can scarcely listen to them. "NMien the stranger leaves the house, he must give a blessing, which, in the opinion of Abyssinians, has a particular effect against devils, gins, ants, locusts, mice, famine, war, sickness, &c., because he came from Jemsalem. Others will give you food, or a lodging for the night, because they expect medicine from you. Others perhaps vnW receive you, because, as they say, you have no father, nor mother, nor relations in the country. These are the principal motives of Abyssinian hospitality. And then, what do they give you ? Perhaps they will allow you to sleep in a stable with their cattle — perhaps they will give you some teff-bread and pepper- soup, which almost sets yom* lips on fire ; or perhaps they will give you a few horns of hydromel and beer. But they will never slaughter a sheep when you come to them in a poor appearance ; though if you appear to be rich, they will not hesitate to slaughter the best sheep and largest bullock, as they are certain of receiv- ing double the value. Whoever goes to Abyssinia, should be warned against relying on the hospitality of the cunning Abyssinians. It is better if you have your own means ; but if you lose these, you must not despair ; 132 ABYSSINIAN HOSPITALITY. as you mil find; under God's direction^ as much as you absolutely want till you reach the coast. This is my impartial opinion of Abyssinian hospitality, which I have experienced in good and bad days. Do not rely on Abyssinian hospitality, but make yourself as inde- pendent of it as you can ; but if you must rely on it, you may be sure that you will find what you want daily, till you can help yourself. If a traveller should fail in procuring his daily food from the inhabitants of a village through which he passes, it is advisable for him to go to the church of the place, which must feed a stranger who is a Christian. You may go there without any hesitation, because most churches have the benefit of lands for that purpose. You sit down at the entrance — called Decha Salama — till the priests ask you what you want. At all events, they cannot refuse you a night's lodging, if they should be wicked enough to give you no food. But if you once obtain a lodging for the night, you may then go through the village and find a little bread or some hog's beans, with which you must be content if you wish to travel in Abyssinia. The good water and healthy chmate will make up for the comforts of other countries. In gene- ral it is customary for a traveller to sit down on the ground at public places where the villagers can see you, and if any one will receive you, he will come and call you. Should you wait however for a considerable time without having been called by any one, you may then attempt to ask for a lodging in a house you choose; HINTS TO EUROPEANS. 433 and if you are sent away, it is best to go to a church. This matter leads me to mention a subject which may prove useful to many Europeans, who a])pear to consider Abyssinia a country in which they could make their fortunes in a short time. This is by no means the case ; and he who entertains this opinion, will be utterly disappointed if he goes to Abyssinia for this purpose. It is true, that a mechanic might be able to collect a large fortune, if people would pay him pro- perly for his n-ork ; but this is never the case. They want liini to do every thing without payment ; yea, they expect that he will make them a present for the favour which they believe they have done him by requesting his services. If there are Abyssinians of a better mind, they \^'ill perhaps give to the labourer a sheep, or some barley and other things in kind. But this is rather a trouble than an advantage. As long as the Abyssinians do not travel to other countries, and arc not acquainted with European customs and the value of Em-opean articles, or the usefulness of a European me- chanic ; or as long as any Abyssinian ruler does not encourage the improvement of commerce and manu- factures at any cxpencc, as Mahomed Ali, Pasha of Egypt, has done, wc must not expect that artisans and merchants will gain advantage to any considerable ex- tent. Abyssinia is at present in a state of infancy com- pared with European nations ; but if it were go\erned bv a proper government, it would soon rise to be the u 434< SINGULAR CUSTOM OF THE YECHOO WOMEN. first power of Africa^ and its flourisMng state would be of the most decided advantage to Eui'opean speculators of all kinds. Moving toward Mersa^ we met multitudes of people going to the market of Goobhara, a village through which we had passed yesterday. I observed a very strange custom of the Yechoo women whom we met on the road. They either turned backward, or turned their faces to the ground, standing still on the way-side. Believing that this arose from the fear which they had at seeing a white man, or that it was a trace of modesty customary in their tribe, I inquired the reason ; and I learned that in doing so, they request a blessing from the traveller, w^ho has to addi'css them with the words : " May God have mercy upon you ;" or, " May He bless and preserve you.^^ I observed afterward almost the same custom in the Wag country, though only in the male sex. I have already mentioned, that the immense plains of the Yechoo country would admit a more numerous population ; but on examining this matter more fully, I found that they leave them uninhabited on purpose. These plains, which are complete wildernesses, are nar- row in the west toward the foot of the mountains, but very considerable in breadth toward the east and the Galla country. Thorns and other kinds of wood grow up on these plains in such abundance, that you can scarcely find your road through this thorny wilderness, which is dreaded on this account by large wild beasts. MANNER OF PLANTING PEPPER. 435 Thus naturally fortified against the inroads of the Gallas of the east on points where the only entrance is presented to these savages^ the Yechoo people do not feel inclined to deprive themselves of this thorny stronghold by means of cultivation, for which they have room enough in other places. Besides, the cultivation of such a wilderness would require great exertions, which the laziness of the Abyssinians will not attempt, unless the utmost necessity compels them. The climate in these plains is beautiful, neither too hot nor too cold ; the air being always refreshed by the winds blowing from the mountains. There is plenty of water poured out from the veins of the neighbouring mountains. About twelve o^ clock we crossed the river Mersa, which cai'ried in its narrow bed such a mass of water that we had great difficulty in passing the river. The heavy rain which fell this morning had caused this swelhng of the river, which at other times cannot have much water. Much cotton is planted on the banks of the river. But I was particularly struck with the man- ner in which the natives plant their red pepper. They dig small pieces of ground near the river, which they saiTOund by a fence. In this the young pepper plant is placed, and covered with reeds, which however do not touch the top of the plants, as they stand very close together. These reeds are frequently sprinkled with water, which drop down on the plants gradually. This treatment evidently contributes to the speedy and lux- uriant growth of the plant. AVhcn it has grown about u 2 436 ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MERSA : a foot in lieiglit, it is transplanted into another tract of ground. I was told, that a pepper-plantation of only aljout ten or twelve feet in circumference, will bring in to the proprietor a revenue of two or four dollars, as he is enabled to plant a large field with the previous produce of but a small garden. Having crossed the river Mersa, we immediately saw the village of the same name before us. We had al- ready been made aware that Christian merchants resided in this village; but my principle was not to inquire much on my own account about the religious differen- ces of a place, as the principal thing that I wanted was such hospitality as would satisfy my necessary daily wants, and because my duty as a messenger of God^s Word should be exerted toward Christians as well as Mahomedans, without any predilection or choice of my own. T could compare myself with the birds of the mlderness, which, without any choice or knowledge, fly to the branch of a tree they happen to reach, and gene- rally find on the ground below what is requisite for them. In the same manner I went into the next house and accepted with thanksgiving whatever was presented to me for my bodily wants ; and wherever the Lord gave me an open door and an open heai't to deliver the mes- sage of His Word, I spoke freely of His infinite grace and love to sinners, revealed in Christ, without asking whether the people of the house were ]\Iahomedans or Christians. We entered into a little house in j\Iersa close to the HOSriTABLE RECEPTION. 437 way-side. The people of the house ijroved to be Ma- homedans. Upon entering and saluting them, an old sickly looking woman returned our salutation, and bid us walk in and sit do^^^l on a skin, which she spread out before us. She then ordered her daughter to make some coflfee, and to bake a few cakes. In the mean time, she gave us some hog's beans, till the coffee was ready. A neighbour- woman, who was a Christian, was with her, and who hearing that wc were Christians, said, " "Why did you not go to the houses of the Chris- tians ? '' I said, " In the first place, we are strangers, who do not know any thing about the religious differ- ences of the inhabitants of this place ; and, secondly, we are afflicted strangers, having been deprived of ovir property by the hands of a robber on the road. We therefore apply to all who feel compassion for the afflicted." The Christian woman then ran out of the house. We thought she was gone to fetch some pro- ^dsions for us ; but we were utterly disappointed, and we never saw her afterward. But this disappoint- ment did not signify, as our old kind hostess did every thing to show her compassion for us. " I know," she said, "that you are Christians ; but this does not prevent me from admitting you to my house, because you are strangers of Allah, (God) who has ordered us to do good to them." And really she did so. Though she wasa j)oor woman herself, she did eveiy thing to make us comfortable, presenting us with coffee, bread, and af- terward milk and beer. 438 CONVERSATION WITH MAHOMEDANS. While we were enjoying ourselves with what was given by our hostess^ several Mahomedans entered the room. One of them began the conversation by asking, whether I knew at what time God would send them either famine or cheapness. I said, that God kept this secret to himself, and that whoever should attempt to disclose it by means of his natural knowledge, would turn a liar and offend God : besides, he would lead his fellow-creatures to unwarrantable errors. " Well then," the Mahomedans replied, "thus you know nothing about this subject." " No/^ I said, " nothhig at all ; but I know about another more important famine and cheapness of our souls, of which I am going to tell you,^' I then spoke about the natural corruption of sinful man, who unless he seeks for his salvation through Jesus Christ, the only Saviour, will be lost for ever. While I was conversing with these people, a Mahome- dan Sheik came in. He first said to me, " Shave your head." This led us to the same topics on which I had just been speaking ; but the Sheik interrupted us, by addi-essiug our hostess and requesting her to send us away. She said, that she would not do so, as we werfe an afflicted people. I said, " Why do you trouble the woman on my account because I am a Christian ? If you believed what our Gospel says, He wlio loveth God loves his hrother also — you would not say what you have." He then arose and walked off in anger. Another Mahomedan who came in, immediately got affected when I returned his salutation in the Amharic SUPERSTITIOUS CUSTOM. 439 words : " Egsiabher yemas ghen'^ — May God be praised ! The Mahomedans, although they only speak xlmharic^ will never nse any other expression than the Arabic "El-hamd-lillah," in order to distinguish themselves from the Christians. I then said^ " \ATiom shall I praise but God, who daily does me good in body and mind ; and not only me, but also those who do not know Him and believe on His Son Jesus Christ, who is the only Sa\dour and Mediator between God and man." April 11, 1842 — We left our kind hostess about seven o'clock, A.M. Before starting I had an opportunity of observing a superstitious custom which is common to Christians as well as ]Mahomcdans. The woman of, a neighbour sent to our hostess for the staff of Moses, as they call a kind of acacia wood. They believe that a staff of this wood swung before a woman in labour, will considerably promote her delivery. Moses is said to have used a staff made of this sort of wood when he struck the rock in the wilderness; and in like man- ner the Holy Virgin is reported to have used it. I also observed another extravagant superstition, which we could scarcely expect from Mahomedans. They pay great respect to certain trees. There was a tree in Mersa which they particularly hold in great re- verence, ^ly people desiring to sit dowTi under its shadow, were immediately driven away, lest the Adbar should be angiy. Adbar means keeper or watchman. They gi'casc this tree, and perform religious ceremonies under it. Nobody dare touch or damage the tree with- 440 SUPERSTITIOUS OPINIONS. out risking a severe punishment. We saw on our road yesterday a large tree^ a wanza, which was greased. This superstition is common to Mahomedans and Christians, and particularly to the Pagan Gallas, from whom the Abyssinians appear to have adopted many heathenish customs and practices. The Shoans acknow- ledge many things as Adbar. Thus, for instance, a leopard has been frequently seen in the forest of Afer- beini, near Ankobar, on a tree close to the monastery of Tecla Haimanot. One day I expressed a wish to let this beast feel the power of my rifle; but the monks having heard that I wished to kill the leopard, and that I had agreed with people to let me know when the beast was on the tree, came and begged me not to destroy the leopard, as he was an Adbar, or protector of their monastery. I said, " On this account I wish to know whether he can stand against my rifle, in order that you may give up an idea which is highly disgrace- ful to a Christian, who should be better instructed from the "Word of God." INIany people in Shoa told me, that leopards are Adbars, as they show the road to fugi- tives who endeavour to escape from the captivity of the Gallas. Would you imagine that such gross supersti- tion and ignorance could really exist among a Christian nation ! I could scarcely believe it myself if I had not heard the matter from so many people. We travelled toward Woldaia, the capital of Dejas- madj Faris, Governor of Yechoo. On om" road Ave met a number of priests coming from Gondar by way of THE VILLAGE OF SHELTE. 441 Begemeder and "Wadela. They told us that the robbers near the river Checheho had deprived them of their clothes and provisions. They had nothing on their bodies except the skins of bullocks, which some merci- ful people had given them to cover their nakedness. This fact is a fm-ther proof of what we might have ex- perienced if we had been able to prosecute our road to Gondar by passing the Checheho. The river Checheho has its source in the mountains of Lasta, and runs be- tween Begemeder and Daunt into the Nile. Our road led us through plain land as yesterday, but it was less woody. As it was already evening, and a shower of rain approaching, we would not enter the capital of Woldaia, but preferred seeking for a lodging for the night in a village called Shelte, a few miles dis- tant from Woldaia. Our intention was to move to- morrow to Woldaia, and if possible to rest there for a day or two, as our daily joui-neys had tired us consider- ably. Besides, we thought that we might be able to collect a stock of provisions for our journey through Lasta, which, we had learned, was a poor country, abandoned by the inhabitants. Having arrived in the village of Shelte during the rain, we entered a house to beg for shelter and a lodging for the night. The lady of the house however, who was alone with her children, bid us go out of her house, as there were many other houses where we might ask for a lodging. Sad as wc were, we went away in the rain, and made our peti- tion to the inhabitants of another house ; but they 442 INHOSPITALITY OF THE PEOPLE OF SHELTE. answered, " What have you to do in om- house ? You cannot stay with us ; wx have a sick person in our room : walk off immediately/' We then went to another house, but with no better success, as the proprietor told us that he could not receive any one, as his house was full of people and cattle. We said, that we would only trouble him for a place to sleep upon at night, as we could not sleep in the open air on account of the rain, and as there was no chm'ch in the village to which we could go. As we still went on asking for a night's lodging, he said, " I have told you once that I have no room for you ; therefore you must leave my room.'' " Well then," I said, " I will go, and the same God who gives a place to a bird where to rest upon, will provide for us." While we wxre talking with the man, we w^ere called by the people who at first excused themselves with having a sick man in their house. They gave us a house w^hich was empty, the inhabitants having joined the ex- pedition of Dejasmadj Faris. We felt very grateful for the permission they gave us to pass the night in thehouse. Some neighbours having heard from my servants the mischief which had befallen us on the road, brought a few loaves of bread and a little beer. They also lighted a fire, it being cold in consequence of the rain which fell on our arrival, and warmed some water to wash our feet, a matter which a kind and civil host in Abyssinia dare not overlook. April 12, 1842 — As we wanted to pass the day in Woldaia, we were in no great hurry to leave the village MARKET OF WOLDAIA, 443 of Shelte, Woldaia being not very distant. On our road we met a great many people, who were going to the mai'ket which is held this day at Woldaia. They came from all quarters. We saw many hundreds of donkeys and mules loaded with salt-pieces, barley, cloths, &c. A dollar is exchanged at AYoldaia for thirty-six or forty pieces of salt, consequently double as much as in Shoa. I observed that the Yechoo language varies in many things fi-om the Shoan Amharic, which differs in many thin2;s from the dialect of Gondar, which is considered the purest Amharic. As to the rest, I could understand the people of Yechoo as well as the Shoans. I was sorry that I did not see Dejasmadj Faris, who was on an expedition ^ith his brother Berroo Ahgas against Imam Liban, the head ofWoiTaHimano. Eerroo Ahgas and Faris was the reason of my return to Adara Billc, and now I was obliged to go through their country. Faris was described as a man of great kindness and hospitality, who if I had seen him would have given me a mule or money. At least I was told so by his subjects ; but I doubt this, as he would scarcely have given me any thing, because I could not give him a present. How strange are the ways of Providence ! When I did not want him, he and his brother were in my way ; and when I wanted him, he was not at home. Woldaia is a considerably large town, situated in a plain with shght hills. It may contain a few thousand inhabitants. Probably Faris has chosen the place, in order to be at hand against the inroads of the eastern 444 UNKINDNESS OF THE NEGAD RAS. Gallas, The houses differ but little in construction from those in Shoa. On account of the insecurity of the road, we had been advised by some people to join a caffila going to Lasta and Wag. As we did not know the day of its departure, we were told to apply to Atkoo the Negad Eas (head of the merchants) in Woldaia, and to ask him about this matter. Trusting that he would give us the best information, and would perhaps allow us to stay in his house a day or two, we went to him ; but we were immediately refused admittance into the house. He was sitting in the house-yard ; but probably thinking that we did not know him, he said, " The Negad Ras is on the market : he is not here," though the neigh- bours had told us that he was at home. Upon endea- vouring again to enter the gates, he cried out and said, " I have told you once that the Negad Ras is not here." At the same time he ordered his servants and many ferocious dogs to drive us out of his sight. We went away very sadly indeed, and grieved at the man's un- couthness. We resolved, however, to prosecute our way without caring any more about the departm*e of the caffila or the insecurity of the road. I must con- fess that the rude beha\aour of this man made my heart weep ; but at the same time it led me to cast myself upon Him who is a merciful Father to all those whom the world turns out, and who was my only friend and protector in an unknown country, where I had neither friends nor funds. THE YILLxVGE OF GOODDO. 445 Thus the plan which we had schemed yesterday for collecting a store of provisions at Woldaia was entirely frustrated ; but we entertained the hope that we should find what we wanted at other places^ and at a time when we should absolutely require it. Upon leaving AVoldaia in a north-easterly direction, we had to descend a great deal fi'om the plain of this town. We had no guide with us; but we proceeded on our way, continually inquiring after provinces and places which I knew from the maps of Abyssinia. A narrow path from Woldaia led us down into a small valley, through which a river runs, called in Amharic, the Black River. It had much water from the rain of last night. It runs to the country of Adel. About nine o'clock we halted in a village called Gooddo, where my people wanted to go and beg, as the village had the appearance of a wealthy population. But this was only an optic delusion when we tried to obtain something from the apparently rich people. With gi-eat difficulty, and after long supplications, my people brought back a small quantity of hog's beans from their begging excursion. A Mahomcdan woman allowed us to boil the beans on the fire in her house. She also allowed us to make a little black cofi"ee, which had been given us the day before yesterday by our host at ]\Iersa. AVe could never prevail on Christians to allow us to make coffee in their houses, as they instantly took us for iVIahomedans and sent us out of their houses ; nor would they by any means give 446 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. US a vessel for making the coffee^ because it would make the vessel unclean. After we had left Woldaia, we seldom met Mahome- dans, who are not very numerous in the Christian country of Yechoo. They are still less in the country of Lasta and Wag. Starting from the village of Gooddo^ I made the ac- quaintance of a man from the village of Shal, near the district of Angot. He came from the market of Woldaia, and was on horseback. He inquired after the country from which we came, and where we were going. On learning that we came from Shoa, he said, " The Shoans are the best Christians of Abyssinia, and their king is the best ruler.^' This remark was made by many people of Lasta, Wag, and Tigre. Both the king and the people are in favourable reputation with the rest of Abyssinia. The king^s generosity is known every where ; therefore they flock fi-om all quarters to Shoa, principally monks and priests. Our road led us over a very fine country, extremely adapted for cultivation, the soil being that of our European gardens. In the west we had always the sight of high mountains, ranged from south to north and north-east. About twelve o'clock we crossed the river Ala, which rises in these mountains, and runs toward the country of Adel. It carries a considerable quantity of water in its narrow bed, and during the great rainy season must be impassable. Being late, and the clouded peaks of the mountains menacing the ARRIVE AT THE TILLAGE OF SHAL. 447 approach of rain, we thought it best to look out for shelter iu due time. We beheld the village of Shal, the name of which we had heard previously from the man whom we had met on the road. He had left us before we crossed the river Ala. We did not know his name, nor did he invite us to pass the night with him ; nor had we asked him for any favour of this kind. On entering the ullage, which consists of single houses scattered over a considerable distance, it happened that we directed our coui'se to the very house belonging to the man whose acquaintance we had made before. He himself had not yet arrived, having some business to settle elsewhere. His wife would not allow us to take our seats within the room before her Imsband had given us permission to enter. Thus we waited patiently in the court-yard, being still unacquainted with the proprietor of the house. x\t last he came, and proved to our astonishment to be the man whom we had met on the road. We of course depended upon a good reception and treatment, as this man appeared to be affected toward us on the road. But we were too rash and sanguine in our expectation ; for the man frowned upon us, and asked who had told us that this was his house, and scolded his wife for having allowed us to take shelter in the house-yard. He then made apolo- gies for being unable to treat a great man like myself, by slaughtering a sheep or bullock, and advised us to take our lodging in the church, which was very far off, and, as we learned aftenvard, without priests. I 448 CONVERSATION WITH A WOMAN answered, that I did not wish to be treated as a great man ; but that I would be content with a httle food and a small spot where to sleep upon. Having several times represented to him that we were very tired from walking — that the rain w^as approaching — that all other houses were far off — that he himself had ex- pressed great affection on the road — and that the Christian Religion commanded hospitality toward Christians in particular — the man gave in, took us into his house, and treated us with a kindness which we did not expect after this long dispute. This occurrence confirmed me in the opinion which I had formed on some previous occasions, that a traveller in my situa- tion must not be afraid in many cases of assuming firmness and importunateness, as the continual begga- ries of the Abyssinians have rendered the heart of many givers almost inflexible. I cannot conclude the description of my experiences of this day, without mentioning the truly eminent questions which the wife of our host asked me when our conversation had tm-ned to religious matters. The woman having frequently heard me say that we should live according to the will of God, asked emphatically, " What is the will of God ? " I answered, '' We should love God with our whole heart, and our fellow-creatures as om-selves." She then asked; " How can we love God ? " I replied, " If we see how much God has loved us before in giving us His Son Jesus Christ as our Saviour and Mediator." " Who is Jesus Christ ? " she asked ; " and IN THE VILLAGE OF SHAL. 449 where is the Word of God ? " Allien I afterward spoke again of God^s love toward us^ she said^ " I have often thought that God does not love us, because we fre- quently offer beer and bread to St. JMichael and St. Abbo ; but notwithstanding, they do not prevent our houses from being biu-nt by our enemies." I said, " Just from what you now tell me, you may see God's love toward you by chastising you, in order that you may give up your idolatry of offering bread and beer to St. Michael, and offer yoin- heart to the living God, that he may govern your thoughts, words, and deeds." I shall never forget the interesting questions which this woman put to me in a manner which is seldom observed in other Abyssinian inquii-ers. May the word which I spoke to her become a seed in her heart for everlasting life ! April 13, 1842 — I got up very early this morning, as the tleas and other insects would not allow me to take rest for a moment during the whole night. The great number of cattle in the stable in which we were quartered, gave an attractive power to these little tyrants, who vexed us at night, after we had been pained by the people during the day. "\Vc left early the village of Shal, which is in the district Sanka, belonging to Yechoo. From Shal we had to ascend a long time. !Many rills intersected our road and refreshed us with their delicious water, coming from sources which we could observe, at a distance of a few hundred yards, gushing from the rifts of the rocks. 450 DISTRICT OF SANKA. The district of Sanka suffered much in war a few years ago, when Dejaj Faris was fighting against his rival Dejaj Bedool. Faris had been imprisoned by Ras AH in Debra Tabor ; but he found means to escape from prison and to retm-n to Yechoo, which had been given by the Has to Bedool during the captivity of Faris, This brave warrior had scarcely anived in his former territory, when most of his subjects joined his party. He gave Bedool a battle in Sanka and killed him ; but he burnt at the same time the villages around. About ten o'clock we finished our tiresome work of ascending to the higher country. We rested a little on a spot, where two highways request the traveller to decide which he will choose for his journey. The north-western highway leads to Lalibala and Gondar ; while the north-eastern road will bring you to Sokota and Antalo. Had I been furnished with proper means, I would have changed my mind and taken the route to Lalibala and Gondar, as I had more than one motive to see the latter town ; but my misery and afiliction compelled me to prosecute the north-eastern route toward Tigre, as this would lead me quicker to Mas- sowah, the end of my jom'ney. Having scarcely proceeded on our march again after the rest we had taken, on a sudden we heard the outcry of several men running in a huny after us. Bearing in mind the dreadful remembrance of Adara Bille's robbery, we thought of no other occurrence ACCUSATION AGAINST MR. KRAPF. 451 than that we should now be entu-ely deprived of the rest of our property^ which the generosity of our robber had left on our bodies. The men came on and requested us to retm'n to the place where we had rested, as there were judges who would decide on the crime which we had committed. On asking what we had done, we were told that we had persuaded four slaves at Shelte to run away from their master ; and that these slaves must either be with us, or that we must know where they had gone to. Perceiving that the matter had no reference to our being plundered, and observing the people running together from the fields to stop us, I complied with their demand and returned, in good confidence that I could prove my innocency in this accusation. On returning to the place where the judges were, the accusation was repeated by the people of Shelte, saying, that I was the brother of the Abuna, to whom the slaves belonged. The Abuna had a num- ber of Shangalla slaves with him when he was in the camp of Ubea in Begemeder; but when Ubea was im- prisoned by Berroo Aligas' troops, the Abuna's slaves were also imprisoned by the Yechoo soldiers, who performed the achievement of Ubea's capture. The soldier who imprisoned the slaves of the Alnma was a native of Shelte ; and, according to the Abyssinia right of war, he had taken them home. The slaves having disappeared just at the time when I was in Shelte, the people said, that nobody could have persuaded them but myself, being the brother of the Abuna. 453 MR. krapf's reply. Against this impeachment I advanced, first, a a abridged narrative of the whole of my journey from Shoa, particularly of my accident with Adara Bille, a narrative which at once gained the heart of my judges; secondly, I explained, that slavery according the Word of God, is a crime against mankind, and therefore strongly forbidden in my country; thii'dly, that I had neither seen nor conversed with slaves in Shelte ; fourthly, that my host in Shal, with whom I had passed the previous night, could witness that I had nobody with me except my own servants, whom they had seen in Shal ; and lastly, that they had not found here an increased number of my party. Both judges and accusers seemed to feel the force of these arguments, and the quarrel ended by the judges de- claring us excommunicated if we had not spoken the truth. Disagreeable and annoying as this occurrence was to us, yet it turned to our great advantage ; for had we not been detained, we should have traversed the district of Angot, and then we should not have found a village on the road before night, in a cold and dangerous wilderness. Thus frequ^ently many circumstances are insignificant and disagreeable, but in course of time are found to be veiy providential indeed. that my heart were more thankful to Him, whose gracious hand was to be seen so manifestly dm-ing the indescribable misery and distress of my journey ! We were now in Angot, which appears to be a large PROVINCE OF ANGOT. 453 district. It begins with the point of the separation of highways mentioned above, and extends as far as Lasta, to which it is considered an additional part. It is at present dependent on the Governor of Yechoo, to whom Lasta is also subjected. This is evidently the province of Angot marked on the maps ; but it must have been formerly much larger than it is now. It must have extended more to the east, where there is at present a part of the Raia Gallas. I had frequently asked such people in Shoa as I thought would be able to tell me something about the province of Angot; but I was left in ignorance till I asked a native this afternoon about the name of the district which we were traversing. Tlie same was the case with the dis- tricts of Bugna and A^"olaka, which are mentioned by Mr. Ludolph and by INIr. Bruce. According to the latter (Vol. II. p. 441.) the daughter of the Jewish King Gideon was married to the Governor of Bugna in Lasta. Bugna is still to this day a district near Lalibala in Lasta. Wolaka is another district, through which I shall pass to-morrow. I am convinced that many names of the ancient geography of Abyssinia would be again discovered, if travellers would go over the whole of the country. In some distance in the east of Angot is the high mount Sobel, inhabited by a part of the Raia Gallas. The climate of Angot is very cold, as it is high land. On the eastern frontier of the mountains of Angot I saw a large plain, situated very low between Angot and the mountains of the Raia 454 ARRIVE AT THE Gallas. The beauty of the prospect which I had of this plain, and the high mountains of the Raias beyond^, is truly indescribable. The plain must be very considera- ble in breadth, and a river runs through it from what I could see and learn from the natives. If this be true, and I believe it is, it must be the river Mille mentioned above. This, I suppose, takes up all the waters of the Yechoo mountains, and runs between Angot and the Raia mountains north-east-east, where it receives the waters of Angot, Lasta, and Wag, and perhaps also the waters of Wofila and a part of Tigre ; whereupon it attempts to reach the coast, but it is prevented by the sand and the rising country toward the coast. I in- quired much about this plain ; but people told me that they did not go over to the Raia Gallas, and therefore did not know whether there was a large river ; but that there was water running through the plain. This information compelled me to suspend my judgment of the subject, till other travellers shall throw more light on the matter. It frequently happens that travellers form their own idea of a subject, and turn their obser- vations or information according to these their precon- ceits, which is rather a loss than an advantage to geo- graphy. Having reached the village of Saragadel, we learned that there was no other village on the road for a dis- tance of about fifteen or eighteen miles. As it was late, the rain approaching, and we were tired, we resolved to pass the night in this village. We entered into a house ; ^*5 'ai^O^ ■ VILLAGE OF SARAGADEL. -^^-"^ 455 but the inhabitants immediately set their dogs at us. I withdrew a little^ and sat down on a rising ground, where the rocks afforded me a little shelter from the cold rain which began to fall. My servants went through the village to seek for a night^s lodging. Pen- sive and grieved at the hardness of man toward his fellow-creature, I sighed after the assistance of Him who had not hitherto forsaken me on my pilgi'image. My servants went from house to house ; but all their endeavours were in vain, till at last a sick old man of- fered his cow stable if we would be content \\ith it, which of course we thankfully accepted. The old man introduced us to the stable and ordered his children to light a fii'e, as we were trembling with cold. He then had some bread prepared for us. There was nobody in^ the room except oui'selves and the cattle, which did us no harm, except that they attracted those disagreeable tjTants of which I have spoken before, and which would frequently have rendered our nights entirely restless, had not the fatigues of the day produced such an overwhelming sleep that we did not feel the tormen- tors. I sometimes checked them by leaving the room and staying outside in the cold for a few minutes. April 14', 1842 — We left Saragadel about seven o'clock, and moved toward the mountains of Lasta, still ascending till about nine o'clock. Our road led us to a complete wilderness, ^•ery different from those wc had passed a few days ago in the lower country of Yechoo. There wc had plenty of water, a warm climate, and 456 DESOLATE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. could always find the road when we had debated. But this was not the case on the high land of Angot and Lasta. . ColdnesSj want of water, and difficulty in find- ing our true direction, was painfully felt by our whole party. There was not one large tree, and nothing but grass, called gooassa in Amharic. With this grass they cover the roofs of their houses. A country where there is this sort of grass frightens the Abyssinians, as the name reminds them of a country being cold. The country where you find the gooassa, requires a height of 8000 or 10,000 feet above the sea. The sky was clouded when we traversed the wilder- ness, a circumstance which rendered our situation still worse, as we could not distinguish and make out our direction from the peaks of the mountains. However we went on, being convinced that the road must lead us to some place or other. We saw no village, no culti- vated laud, no cattle, no beast, except some foxes ; no travellers, in fact nothing but desolation, and we our- selves seemed abandoned. Few places ever gave me such a melancholy impression as this wilderness, an impres- sion which I can scarcely forget. After a walk of three or four miles, on a sudden we observed at a distance through the mist covering the wilderness a number of people, who were sitting on the ground on the side of the way which we had blindly taken. Their appear- ance was not agreeable to us, as we took them for lurking robbers, of whom we had been warned yester- day at Saragadel. To our great joy, however, they MARKET OF AVOLDAIA. 457 proved to be merchants of AVoldaia coming from the market held at that place. They were just eating their breakfast, of which they kindly gave us a share after they had heard of our misery. They also pi*ovided us with some meal for our use on the road. One of their party also accompanied us for some distance, and showed us the road so plainly that we could not go astray. I took both the food and the guidance as coming from the gracious hands of Him who always helped when help was necessary. About one o^clock p. m., we reached a few houses on the road, where we halted and had our flour which the merchants had given us made into bread. A woman of one of the houses offered to bake it, on condition how- ever that we should ourselves fetch the wood and water necessary for the preparation. To this we agreed ; and our stock of flour procured us three cakes, being scarcely sufticient for myself and five servants. AVhile my peo- ple were busy in fetching the materials requisite for the preparation of the bread, I looked through the door of our little cottage to the sky covered with immense clouds. The passage of David came to my melancholy mind, where he says, I tvifl lift up mine eyes unto the hills, from lohence comelh my help. I thought that the meaning of the passage might refer to those immense mountains of clouds which were over his head when he was in a state of distress and melancholy, and to which my present situation had some resemblance. We left the hamlet about two o'clock p. m., continu- x 458 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. ally descending on our routCj whicli led us again througli a tract of country entirely abandoned by inhabitants. I must remark, that we began to descend after we bad left the merchants mentioned above. The wilderness through which we now travelled had a very different appearance from what I observed this morning. We now found more water ; we had fine scenery for our eyes ; juniper-trees, kolquall acacia were in abundance ; and sometimes we found it difficult to extricate ourselves from the abundance of thorns. But we saw no inhabitants ; we met no travellers ; nor did we see any wild beasts, but beautiful birds of the finest plumage. Fortunately we could find om* road easier than had been the case this morning, when the grass and mist prevented us from keeping up the di- rection pointed out by our host in Saragadel. The present population of Lasta seems to be almost nothing, having been destroyed by famine, war, and sickness, as I was told by the natives whom I asked about this subject. Ras Ali was blamed for having ravaged the country several years ago in the most bar- barous manner. There would be much room for the maintenance of a numerous population ; but it would require an active hand, till the thorny ground could be made arable. A single farmer might now possess himself of as much ground as he likes. I shall never forget the refreshing water which I di'ank out of the rivulets which run to the north-west in small but deep beds under the shadow of a thicket of wood, so that POPULATION OF LASTA. 459 the sunbeams can never touch the \vatcr, and which is therefore agreeably cool. Their course is north-west to the river Tacazze ; a circumstance which shows that we had this morning passed the watershed as soon as we had passed the cold wilderness. The country of Lasta is high and hilly in the east and west; and therefore the running of the waters must force their way to the north-north-west. From the point where we travelled to-day we saw no more a rivulet running to the east till we reached the frontier of Tigre to Massowah. Having left the country of Angot, we crossed only such waters as belong to the water- stock of the river Tacazze. But I have no doubt that the high mountains in the east of Lasta, Wofila, and Enderta, pour out many rivulets toward the country of Adel, as is the case with the eastern mountains of Yechoo, "Worrakallo, and Shoa. The space of a journal does not allow me to dwell upon a subject which would give occasion for writing a volume about the system of waters and mountains of Eastern Abyssinia. About five o'clock in the evening we reached a vil- lage, called Deldei, which means in Amharic " bridge." In many respects there is some truth in this name, as this ^^llage really presents the passage you must take either in going to the counti^ of Wag in the north, or of Yechoo in the south. It leads you in both cases to uninhabited tracts of country. It is therefore the general assembling-place of merchants going from Sokota and Wofila to AVoldai, or vice versa. In Deldei, X 2 460 ARRIVE AT THE the market people join togetlier, in order to frighten the robbers of the road -mih an imposing party. The robbers especially lurk on such days when the mer- chants return from Woldaia or Sokota. We met a company of merchants ; but our plan was now positively against joining their party, who wished us to take the road to Sokota, the capital of the Wag country, which we endeavoured by all means to avoid, having heard of the rapacious character of the Governor of Wag. We entered the first house which we saw in Deldei on the way side. The dogs made a tremendous howl- ing, and the house-wife, as usual, forbid us staying in her room till she had obtained the consent of her hus- band, who was absent. Knowing that this was the cus- tom of the country, we waited in the court-yard, while some of my servants went to beg in the mean time. On their return, they brought a few handfuls of hog's beans. When the husband arrived, and heard of stran- gers asking for a night's lodging, he first objected to our passing the night in his house, saying, that there had been a sick man, with whose disease we might be infected if we entered his house. I said that I was not afraid of this, and that it would not at all signify; whereupon he bid us walk in and have some supper. Presently I heard a lamentation in the house of our neighbour ; and on asking what was the matter, I was told that a man had run away from his wife and chil- dren and had made himself a Monk, and was gone to Debra Libanos in Shoa. The wife had just received VILLAGE OF DELDEI. 461 intelligence from a merchant, who had seen the man on his way to Shoa. Hence her lamentations^ as she could not provide for her children. It frequently happens in Abyssinia, that a man divorces his wife without telling her that he is going to make himself a monk, on ac- count of his soul, as they say. Such a man is called jMenani ; i. e, despiser of the world. To save their souls, as they say, they do not hesitate to break the order of conjugal life whenever they please, and most of their countrymen praise their rigidity, or spiritual bravery. But the fact is, that they are either in indi- gent circumstances, or discontent with their waves, and this induces them to run into a convent ; but as they go in their opinion to a holy place, they think it unne- cessary to inform their wives of what they are going to do. CHAPTER IV. DEPARTURE FROM DELDEI — CONVENT OP SHAMADO MARIAM — DESTI- TUTE APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY — -ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF ENALKA — CONVERSATION WITH A PRIEST — KIND RECEPTION BY THE GOVERNOR OF ENALKA — LANGUAGE AND CHARACTER OF THE AGAUS — DEPARTURE FROM ENALKA— NOTICES OF LAKE ASHANGHE — ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT — APPREHENSION OF AN ATTACK FROM THE TROOPS OF WOLDA MEDHEN — INTERVIEW WITH HIM — UNEX- PECTED KIND RECEPTION — ARRIVE AT THE DISTRICT OF BORA — CON- VERSATION WITH THE GOVERNOR OF A VILLAGE — PASS THE RIVER SHEMSUEHO — ABUNDANCE OF FISH — ARRIVE ON THE FRONTIER OF THE WAG COUNTRY — KINDNESS OF THE GOVERNOR — ARRIVE AT THE RIVER TZANA — RECEIVE UNFAVOURABLE NEWS RESPECTING THE STATE OF THINGS IN TIGRE — AFTER CONSIDERABLE DIFFICULTY, ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF JIAWOINI — KINDLY RECEIVED BY A MONK — ARRIVE AT ANTALO— CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE — CONVERSA- TION WITH A PRIEST ON RELIGIOUS SUBJECTS — NOTICES RESPECTING THE TOWN OF ANTALO — DEPARTURE FROM ANTALO — IMMENSE FLOCK OF BABOONS — SITUATION OF CHELICAT — ARRIVE AT ADIGRAT — VISIT THE CHURCH OP ST. CHLRKOS — SITUATION OF ADIGRAT — VILLAGE OP MAMBEROT — INHOSPITALITY OF THE TIGRIANS — LEAVE MAMBEROT, AND ARRIVE AT BEHAT — CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE OP SENAPE — VILLAGE OF SHEMASANU — VISIT THE ALACA OP THE CHURCH OP ST. GEORGE — CONVERSATION WITH HIM ON PASTING LEAVE MESHAIKH — DISPUTE WITH THE GOVERNOR OF SENAFE — ARRIVE AT TEKUNDA— WELL RECEIVED BY THR GOVERNOR — DEPAR- TURE FROM TEKUNDA, AND ARRIVAL AT ARKEEKO — ARRIVAL AT MAS.SOWAH. April 15^ 1842 — Early this morning we departed from Deldei, taking an easterly direction toward Wofila and CONVENT OF SIIAMADO MARIAM. 463 the lake Ashanghe. We did not like to go to Sokota, having heard of the bad character of the Governor of the Agaus. Last year he robbed a French Gentleman, who intended to go to Shoa. This gentleman had a fine sword, which the Governor wanted to buy ; but as he would not bargain vnth the Governor, he was angry, and sent his servant on the road to rob and kill him on his way from Sokota. They wounded him with a lance ; whereupon he fell to the ground ; and the rob- bers taking him for dead, took his luggage and clothes, and returned to their master. This fact is true, and was afterward related to me by the servants of the Governor of Wag. About six o^ clock we halted on the banks of the river Terari, where we finished the re- mainder of the bread which our host had given us yesterday evening. On our road to Wofila was the Convent of Shamado .Mariam, which is in great reputation with the Abyssin- ians. We did not visit the Convent. The })riucipal convents distinguished for sanctity are in Axum Tzion, Lalibala, and Debra Libanos. Our road led us through countries quite destitute of inhabitants, al- though the good soil would admit a considerable degree of cultivation. The ground was overgrown with grass and thorns, and intersected with rills and brooks. The road was hilly, but not rocky. We could see in the north-north-west of Lasta the high mountains of Semien, the peaks of which presented to us the appear- ance of large towers. The hilly country of Lasta ami 464 APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY. Wag, as far as we could see, had exactly the appear- ance of a raging and stormy sea, presenting numerous hills of waves, with a large space between each wave. We observed only a few hamlets on our road ; namely, Ahio, Tartara, and Atemie Galla. In Tartara we were frightened by a man who was ploughing close to the way-side. He said, that the road to Wofila was infested by robbers, and that we should do better to stay with him, and to join a caffila going in a few days to Wofila. He repeatedly asked what goods we carried with us, as lie wished to buy something from us. When we told him that we had no goods at all, as we had been rob- bed in the Wollo country, he said, '^ I know you have gold with you.^' As I was exceedingly weary, I felt inclined to accept his invitation ; but my servants re- sisted, saying, that they distrusted the man, who, under the pretence of hospitality, might prove at last a second Adara Bille, and I think that they were right in advising me to prosecute our road. A traveller nuist certainly take care in these regions of wickedness. There are very few hamlets on the road. The ground is full of grass, thorns, and bushes ; but this is exactly the country which suits the purpose of the gangs of robbers. We left the man, and said, that we did not care to go with a caffila. He laughed, and said, " Well, you may go ; the road is safe ; but do not go too much to the east, else you will fall into the hands of the Raia Gallas;'' an advice in which he was quite correct. We travelled to-day almost in an easterly direction j VILLAGE OF ENALKA. 465 but on arriving at Atemie Galla, we deviated from our road to north-east-east, having learned that our eastern direction would lead us to the country of the Raia Gallas, who would certainly kiU us if we fell into their hands. Having no reason to doubt the correctness of this statement, which was given to us by an old man of the hamlet Atemie Galla, we turned off immediately to north-east-east toward the village Enalka, which we could see from a distance, and where we intended to pass the night. ^Marching over a thorny field, we saw two men running after us with large sticks. Allien they came up to us, they were silent for some time as to their object in coming after us. Upon asking them what they wanted, they said, that they wanted medi- cine. Their behaviour, however, clearly showed that this was not their real intention of coming to us. Un- questionably they contrived this falsehood to make us believe that they did not intend to plunder us, when they saw that they could not manage us, our party being too strong for them. We reached the village of Enalka about four o'clock. As the people of the first house into which we entered would not receive us, we sat down under a tree, wait- ing according to the custom of the country, for the invitation of any of the villagers. Having waited in vain for a considerable time, we were visited by a priest, who asked us the reason of our sitting so long under the tree. We told him that we wanted to pass the night in the village, but that at present nobody had invited X 5 466 CONVERSATION AVITH US. He walked off, but instantly returned, bringing with him a loaf of bread, and a small jar of beer, which he presented to us. He then said, " I have no house of my own, as I am a stranger, having come from Antalo in Tigre ; but I will speak to the Shum (Governor) of this village, who will probably quarter and feed you well for this night." He then sat down, and wished to have a conversation with me. He commenced by saying, " I am a great sinner ; but I think that the acquaintance of a man from Jerusalem will do me a great deal of good." I said, " I am, as well as you, a great sinner, though coming from Jerusalem ; and even though yourself had been in Jerusalem it would do you no good. I will show you the way to get rid of all your sins, and how you may find a share in the Jeru- salem of heaven, which is far superior to that on earth." This subject turned our conversation to sin, and the way in which we may obtain forgiveness of our sins through faith in Jesus Christ, who will not only forgive us our sins, if we sincerely repent and believe in Him, but who will give us also the spirit of grace to preserve us from committing sins. The priest then went home ; but immediately came back again, bringing with him an ^thiopic Psalter, to which was annexed a little book called Woodassie ]\Iariam (Praise of the Holy Virgin). I strongly disapproved of their practice of confounding and connecting the erroneous word of men with the pure Word of God, to which our conver- sation was now turned. A PRIEST OF ENALKA. 467 The priest having heard that the Governor of Enalka had arrived, went to him and interceded with him for a night^s lodging for us. The Governor came out to the tree, took oiF his clothes to the loins, in sign of respect, made a bow, and said, " Would you not do better to come to my house and stay with me ? I will give you all that I have." Of course we accepted the invitation A^ith the greatest pleasm'e and thankfulness. This transaction reminded me of the hospitable beha- Wour of Abraham. The Governor himself spread out a skin and bid me sit down. He then ordered a fire to be hghted ; but as it was not cold, I requested him not to do so. Some beer and bread was then brought to us till the supper was ready. He frequently said to me, " You are a great man ; you are a priest ; you come from Jerusalem : I must take care of you." But I soon perceived the cause of his civility toward us. He wanted talismans against sickness and evil spirits. His Lady was very sick, and he probably thought that a man of Jerusalem would be able to cure her in a magical manner. As soon as I spoke against the uselessness and sinfulness of talismanic writings, the Governor's civility considerably abated. Had I conde- scended to the superstitious and perverse ])ractices of the people, as probably many travellers in my situation would have done, I should in many cases have met with a better reception, and have avoided many priva- tions and hardshi])s to myself; but how would this agree with my duty and character of a Missionary ? 468 LANGUAGE OF THE WAG COUNTRY. The village of Enalka belongs to the district of AYofila, being dependent on the Governor of Wag. I have forgotten to remark in my notes of yesterday, that the village of Deldei is the frontier of the govern- ment of Dejasmadj Faris. All the country in the north of that village is governed by the Governor of Wag, which is the country of the Agaus. Lasta was formerly in the hands of the Governor of Wag ; but Faris con- quered it, and has been confirmed in his government by Ras Ali. Lasta is bordered in the south by Angot, Yechoo, and Wadela ; in the west by Begemeder ; in the north by Wag ; and in the cast by Angot and the Eaia tribes. The country of Wag is dependent on Ras Ali; but this dependency appears to be very loose. The capital of the Governor of Wag is Sokota. Wofila is dependent on him, as already mentioned. The principal places in the south-east of Wofila, are Zelga, Bora, and the lake Ashanghe. The language spoken in Wofila is that of Tigre, by which it is bordered in the north-east ; while the language of Wag is totally different from any language in Abyssinia, so that I could not understand a word of it. It has neither affinity to the iEthiopic and Amharic, nor to the Galla language. It is totally a different tongue. I have been informed that the other tribes of Wag, which reside toward the sources of the Nile, have a language which is not understood by those Agaus whose country I have traversed. They told me, that the whole Wag country is divided into seven houses or tribes; but CHARACTER OF THE AGAUS. 469 they could uot tell me their names^ nor could they inform me of their fonner histories. I have collected a number of words of the Agau language ; but unfortu- nately they were effaced by the rain, as they were WTitten on reeds, in consequence of the scantiness of paper which was left me by the robber Adara Bille, The Agaus differ as much from that of the rest of Abyssinia in their features, manners, and customs, as in their language. In one great thing, however, they agree with the other Abyssinians ; namely, the Chris- tian religion, and which has certainly tempered a little the character of savageness, spirit of independency, bravery in warfare, irascibleness, revengefulness, and rapacity, which is ascribed to them by the other Abyssinians, and which, I think, is pretty correct. Jj)rii 16, 1842.— We left Enalka at smirise. The priest whom I mentioned yesterday accompanied us for some distance, and showed us the road to Lat. In con- sequence of his advice we gave up the plan of taking the shortest road to the lake Ashanghc, and thought it better first to proceed to Lat, and there to make further inquiries respecting the security of our way. ^Ve ascended till about ten o'clock. On the whole of our road, we saw only one hamlet, called Dafat. Having aiTived on the mountain, which we had been ascending since we left Enalka, we had a pretty view of the mountains of the Raia Gallas in the east. They pointed out the position of the lake Ashanghc ; but it being surrounded by mountains, I could uot see the 470 NOTICES OF LAKE ASIIANGHE. water. From what I heard, however, I must conclude that it is not so large as lake Haik ; at all events there is no island in it. I was told that there are many villages around the lake, where there is a weekly market held. If I am not mistaken, I heard that the largest village, where the market is held, is called Wofila, close to Ashanghe. This is at the same time the name of the whole district or province. On the eastern shores of the lake are Gallas, and therefore great care must be taken which road you go in these hostile regions. I afterward very much regretted that I allowed the people on the road to discourage me with their statements of the insecurity of the access to the lake from having seen this interesting part of the country, as I was not more than eight or ten miles from the lake. But the desire of getting rid of his miseries and hardships frequently prevails on a traveller to let many opportunities escape, which, if he availed him- self of them, would afterward aiFord him the greatest pleasure from the favourable success which might have crowned his scientific endeavours. I was told by a native, that there is another small lake at some dis- tance from the large one; but I have forgotten its name. About twelve o'clock we arrived in the village of Lat, which is of considerable extent. I do not recollect having seen such a large village since I left the country of Yechoo. Probably the name of Woiilat is to be derived from the Amharic Wof-Lat, which means a fat ARRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT. 471 bird. But I do not know to what this origin of the name refers. We only intended to rest a little fi'om the fatigues of our roadj to inquii'e after our route to the lake Ashanghe, and then to go further; but the Alaca of the Church of St. George, who pretended to have seen me at Ankobar, begged me to stop. He delighted us with a cake of bread and a quantity of hog's beans. I learned from him that the Governor Wolda Medhen had encamped at Wofilat close to the lake Ashanghe, in order to collect the annual tribute of the people, consisting of sheep, cows, barley, hog's beans, &c. From the description which the Alaca gave me of the soldiers of Wolda ^ledhen, I was not induced to go to the lake under present circumstances, although our route to Antalo would have been thereby shortened. A compass would have been useless, as the very route which we had now taken to avoid going to Ashanghe, afterward took us to the Governor of whose soldiers we were apprehensive. Having stopped a considerable time with the Alaca, we expressed oui- desire to depart. We had, however, scarcely marched a few hundi-ed yards from the village when we saw a man running after us, who proved to be the judge of the village. He said, " I beg you to rest with me this night ; 1 will give you whatever you want." Seeing his civility, I could not refuse going with him to his house, where he offered bread and honey-water. He then asked me whether I was ac- quainted with magic and talismanic writings. 1 first 472 UNKIND RECEPTION asked him for what purpose he enquired. He replied, that his wife had been sick for several years, and had used many charms written by their counti-ymen, but that they had all proved useless; and that having heard that a man coming from Jerusalem had passed by, he had endeavoured to see him, to ask him for a talisman promising a better effect. I said, " If I had known that this was the reason of your calling me back from the road, I should not have accepted of your hospita- lity, as I cannot accomplish a request which the Word of God considers foolish, useless, and sinful." On hearing that I spoke against magical charms, he was instantly so much reduced in his civility, that he left the room, and never returned to look after us. He said to others, "What has been the use of my bringing this man here ? He cannot charm ; yea, he is opposed to it." The Alaca also began to be discouraged, and the whole party altered their sentiments so much, that they declared I was a Mahomedan, and should be or- dered to leave the house. In the evening, when I asked for a place to sleep upon in the room, I was told to go to bed without the doors of the house. I said, that their treatment was extremely improper, particu- larly as they had invited and called me back from the road. However, I slept in the open and cold air ; and as I did not know till now that this treatment arose from my having refused talismanic writings, I kept silence about the rude behaviour of this people. j4prll 17, 181<2 — Before day break our host came out AT THE VILLAGE OF LAT. 473 of his house, and said, "Make haste and get up and leave this place." At the first moment I did not understand him, as I had no idea that the whole party would carry their anger so far as to persecute me. I thought that the troops of the Governor, of whom every body was afraid in the village, had arrived, and that our host had advised us to take flight. But I soon learned from one of my servants, who had been disputing with the host, on account of his behaviour of yesterday, that they considered me a Mahomedan in secret, because I had spoken against magic, and because 1 had declared that a man cannot be saved by means of fasting. I learned also, that they had held a council yesterday for the pvu-pose of catching and imprisoning me, because I had pretended to be a Christian, although I was a Maho- medan. The xVlaca declared that I was not Krapf whom he had seen at Aukobar ; that I was an impostor assuming his name ; and that Krapf would carry with him Amharic and ^thiopic books. On learning that this was the real state of things, I regretted that wc had departed so quickly and in such confusion. It was still dark, and we were unable to find om- road. We travelled for some time in the bed of a river which flows to the Tacazze, from which wc were distant only a few days' journey, ^ye were obliged to halt in the river till after day break, in order to be sure of our direction to Antalo in Enderta. After daylight we saw a village at some distance, and people coming up to us. But they could not tell us any thing about the route 474- APPREHENSION OF AN ATTACK to iVntalOj which was still far off. We then asked whether this was the route to Bella Georgis, to which they answered in the affirmative. On asking about the residence of the Governor, we learned that he had not yet moved from the villages of Ashanghe. About ten o'clock we crossed another river, the name of which I could not ascertain. Its course was north- north-west, and it carried down a considerable quantity of water. Before we reached this river, we could scarcely find our way through the thorns and bushes, which caused us many difficulties in advancing toward the river. Our clothes, which we were obliged to pre- serve as well and as long as possible, as we had no others, were considerably damaged in this thorny jungle. About eleven o'clock we reached another river. We halted a little, and collected a quantity of ripe fruit of the wanza-tree, which appeased our appetites a little. From thence we passed by a village situated on the foot of a high mountain, which we had now to ascend. The countiy of Wofila appears to be better inhabited and cultivated than that of Angot and Lasta. Since we had left Lat, we observed many villages and tracts of land well cultivated ; but the reason is, that the des- truction of lias All's war had not extended so far. We reached the top of the mountain after mid-day. Our passage was sometimes extremely difficult and nar- row. The banks of the mountain had sometimes the appearance of high walls of rocks, a slip from whence FROM THE TROOPS OF WOLDA MEDHEN. 475 would cause certain death. Toward the end of our ascent we observed several houses close to the way-side. We understood that they belonged to a Governor who is charged with watching the road. Nobody troubled us, as we had nothing that attracted their attention ; but should a traveller pass by with much luggage, he would certainly be detained by this Governor. Having reached the top of the mountain, we learned that the Governor Wolda Medhen with his troops had moved this morning from Zelga, and that he was ex- pected in Bella Georgis this afternoon. This was bad news to us : however we hoped that we should be able to pass by before his arrival. We marched as quickly as possible, although we were so tired, that we could scarcely move om* legs, having commenced our march before daybreak. We had two roads before us ; one leading east, and the other north-east. The position of Zelga, where the Governor was said to be, appeared to me precisely east. I therefore proposed to take the route of north-east, thinking that the distance from Zelga might be so considerable that we should not meet the Governor. But in this I was perfectly mistaken. We went on as quickly as we could ; but unfortunately we met no one who could give us better information of the Governor's movements. We at last saw a large village, to which we directed om* steps ; but on a sudden we were stopt by the deep and wall-like banks of a torrent. We had then to turn eastward ; but having travelled about three miles more, we reached the banks 476 INTERVIEW WITH of another steep hill, from which we could see down into a little valley, where a part of the Governor's troops were encamped. Escape was now impossible, as they had seen us on the top of the hill. Every attempt to escape would only have raised more suspicion, and would perhaps have produced the worst consequences. I said to my servants, " As we cannot escape, it is better for us to go directly to the Governor and acquaint him with oui" situation : perhaps his heart will be affected, and God will prevent him from doing us mischief." So we accordingly went. On descending the valley to inquire after the Governor's tent, we observed some people coming toward us. We thought that they were soldiers coming to plunder us before we could reach the camp ; but one of them was a priest, who had a green field near the way-side, and thinking we were soldiers, he came to excommunicate whoever should walk over his field. We told the priest who we were, and that we wanted to see the Governor, and begged him for a man to accompany us to the Governor's tent. To this he consented. On leaving he requested me to say the Lord's Prayer with him. I did not refuse, and I can say that I prayed from all my heart. It was really a consolation in my critical situation. In moving toward the place where the Governor was said to be sitting under a tree, I was frequently re- quested by soldiers of the Wag country to give them a blessing. They either kneel or lie on the ground, till the blessing is pronounced ; and have a strong be- AVOLDA MEDHExV. 477 lief that this blessing, particularly when it is given by a man of Jerusalem, will be of use to them. It ap- peared to me that they thus seek more for temporal than spii'itual and eternal good. Many thought that my blessing would secure them against every ball from the muskets of the enemy ; and others thought that they would be enabled to pay their debts, &c. I there- fore always endeavoured to give my blessing in such a manner as to excite a desire in their minds for their real spiritual welfare. The Governor's tent was not yet pitched. I therefore met him in the open an*. Fortunately, I had met his father confessor, who had the kindness to introduce me to him. I saluted the Governor in Amharic, which he and most of the bystanders understood, the Amharic being the language of the Court of Has Ali. On his asking me from whence I came, I gave him a short naiTative of my journey from Shoa, to which he listened with gi-eat attention, ^lien his favourite people heard of the baggage which I had been deprived of in the Wollo country, they said, " AVhat a pity it is that he did not bring his goods to us ;" i.e. we would have been glad of robbing him. I said, that the reason which had induced me to see him, was, because I wished him to protect me in going through his country, and to provide me with provisions, as I was in bad circum- stances in this respect. He then ordered me to sit down in the shade of another tree till his tent was pitched, when he called me again, and held a long con- 478 INTERVIEW WITH versation. He asked what I had with me. I rephed, that I had nothing but a Uttle book^ which I took out of my pocket and showed to him. He asked, what book it was ; to which I rephed, that it was a copy of the New Testament in the language of my country. He then asked, whether its contents agreed with the New Testament of his country. I said, " Certainly it does,'^ and translated 1 John i., when he exclaimed with great joy, " I see ! I see ! I see ! it is the same." I then gave a short explanation of the contents, which particularly attracted the attention of the priest, who appeared to me to be a man of much understanding. They then asked about Jerusalem, whether it was true that children did not die there. I said, that they die there as in all other countries when the houi* of death is come by the appointment of God. It must be re- marked that pilgrims coming from Jerusalem tell their Abyssinian countrymen many falsehoods. For instance, they make them believe that children do not die in Je- rusalem — that at the Abuna^s ordination a dove waves over his head, in sign of the reception of the Holy Ghost — that the water of the Jordan is as white as lime — that the house of the Patriarch at Cairo, is com- posed of gold — and that at Easter a light falls from heaven over the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The Abyssinians will frequently ask you about these things; but it will always have a bad effect if you tell them you have not been in Jerusalem, as they will not lay any stress on your arguments, and I truly regret that WOLDA MEDHEN. 479 I have never seen Jerusalem. Many think you are no Christian if you tell them that you have not been in Jerusalem. Ha\'ing finished the conversation, the Governor ordered me to take my resting-place any where in the open air, till he would give me leave to depart to-mor- row. I walked off with feehngs of the greatest joy and thanksgiving to my heavenly Guide, after having been for some time in great apprehension from the Governor and his troops. April 18j 1842 — With the greatest anxiety I waited for daybreak, being anxious to learn the result of my application to the Governor. The impression which his beha^^om• had given me yesterday was favourable, and I could not think that any thing of a disastrous nature would happen. Last evening he sent a piece of bread for each of our party. His people however showed some rudeness of behaviour, which did not signify so long as I had the good will of their master in my favoui'. Here it was that I heard a true account of the robbery committed against the French gentleman before mentioned. I must confess that this communication caused very painful feelings in my mind, ])articularly when the reporter, a servant of the then Governor of Sokota, told me, that he was one of the robbing party ; that they had intended to kill the gentleman, but that he afterward made his escape ; and that therefore it would not signify if I should be murdered in his stead. I could rest but httle during the night, and I got up several 480 TAKE LEAVE OF WOLDA MEDHEN. times, and recommended my life and that of my ser- vants to the protecting power of my heavenly Father, who made me experience this morning that my poor and humble prayer had not been in vain. After sunrise I repaired to the Governor's tent to take leave of him. Having waited a long time amidst a crowd of gazing and annoying soldiers who watched the access to the tent, I was at last introduced by the father-confessor, whose kindness I had already experi- enced. The Governor appeared to be in good humour, and without any bad intention against me or my ser- vants. He commenced the conversation by saying, that he would have asked me for a pair of spectacles, if I had been able to comply with his request. I replied, that it would have afforded me great pleasure, if I had been able to return his kindness with any thing pleas- ing to him ; but that my circumstances would not allow me to do so. He then gave orders to his favou- rite servant to provide me for his souFs sake, as he said, with two madegas* of barley, to be given me in a village on the road. I thanked him, and then bid him farewell, having first, at his request, given him a blessing. Thus the man who recalled to our minds the remem- brance of Adara Bille, proved to be a lamb compared with that robber. AYe had endeavoured yesterday to avoid this dangerous place ; but to-day we were glad that we did not succeed. * Madega is a measure used in Tigre, equal to sixteen Kunna in Shoa, which contains about fifty pounds in weight. ARRIVE AT THE TILLAGE OF KARAXGHE. 481 The servant who was ordered to collect the barley, strictly executed his master's command ; but we had to wait several hours in the ^-illage. We had now such a quantity of provisions, that my people had to carry the loads by tm-us ; but they were ready to bear every hardship. We joj-fully prosecuted our journey, daily receiving fresh proofs of the faithfid care of our hea- venly Father. ^\Tien we had crossed the river Ghebia, we were over- taken by violent rain. The wind and rain rendered the air rather cold, and the hard work of ascending and descending the moimtains and hills on foot pro- duced a continual perspiration. Fortunately we reached in due time the village of Karanghe, where a man kindly received us into his house, lighted a fire, and made us a little comfortable. Falling upon my knees, I offered the sacrifice of humble thanksgiving to Him who had graciously brought me a further step on my tiresome pilgi'image. Thus it is with the life of a Christian, who is now in sorrow, and then in joy ; who weeps in the evening, and rejoices in the morning, till his earthly journey is over, and he enjoys eternal and immutable happiness in heaven. April 19, 1842 — We left Karanghe before sunrise in a north-east-east direction. As this day was the anniversary of St. Michael the archangel, our host was gone to church before we could take leave of him. Although we had yesterday ascended considerably, yet we had to ascend this morning still more through a Y 482 ENTER THE DISTRICT OF BORA : country full of thorns and gi*ass. We saw however no village, nor did we meet any inhabitants. I was struck at the great number of partridges, which I have no- where seen in such an abundance as on this mountain. One charge would have provided us with food for several days ; but our weapons were in the hands of Adara Bille. The country around was extremely hilly, and reminded me of Geshe in northern Shoa. Tor- rents run between the high and steep mountains, which were full of thorns and trees of various kinds of wood. Having reached the top of the mountain, we had a pretty view of the provinces of Wag and Semien. The mountains of Semien appeared to be elevated to the sky, till the clouds withdi-ew their tops from om' con- templation. One of the highest mountains of Wag is Biala, on the eastern foot of which Sokota, the capital of Wag, was said to be. Here resides the present Governor, Taferri, who sends from hence his officers at certain times over the whole country to collect tri- bute. About ten o'clock we entered the district of Bora, the name of which is derived from the white stripes which mark all the hills around. Each stratum of rocks pre- sents a white and somewhat grey appearance to the eye. There are several large caves, which might give shelter to several hundred men. In the first village of Bora we met the Governor, Woldaa JMichael. He was sitting under a tree by the wayside, holding a consultation with his people. INTERVIEW WITH THE GOVERNOR. 483 Observing the people from a distance^ I conjec- tured that there was a Governor among them, and having been treated well yesterday by the Governor Wolda Teclo, I thi*ew away all the apprehensions which I had entertained in Lasta. On approaching the place where the consultation was held, I endea- voui'ed to avoid the people by going my way with- out asking who they were, or what they w^ere doing. But the Governor sent his servant, who requested me to wait on his master, whose robber-hke appear- ance instantly deprived me of confidence. He asked from whence I came, and what was my business. I told him that I had been in Shoa to teach the Word of God, as I was a Christian priest coming from a country called England, situated beyond Jerusalem. At first he would not believe that I had been in Shoa, as he had not heard that I went there by way of Wag, and it appeared he did not hke to hear that there was another road by way of Adel. When I related to him what misfortunes had befallen me in Adara Bille's, he laughed with his servants, saying, " We should have been delighted at seeing you with your property : we should have liked you much indeed, and would have bought every thing from you.^' He then wanted to try my spectacles, my boots ; in fact every thing he saw. Fortunately, however, nothing suited him. He then asked, whether 1 knew the new Abuna, and whe- ther I had been in Jerusalem and seen all the wonder- ful things, of which they had heard from pilgrims. On Y 2 484 THE RIVER SHEMSHEHO: departing, one of my servants was called and asked by him xipon an oath, whether I had no bafta (white cloth) ; whether I had nothing at all for sale ; and whether I was not acquainted with magic. My servant, of course, answered in the negative to all these questions ; and we were then allowed to depart. I have never seen a country where people talk so much of gold as the people of Wag. Their conversa- tion immediately turns to this subject. They believed in earnest that I had plenty of gold with me, as I had no other baggage. "VMien I asked, whether if I had plenty of gold, I should make such a miserable appear- ance in which they saw me, they answered, — " It is true you have no mule, and you beg for yom- daily bread ; but this is the clearest proof of your carrying gold with you, because all people act as you do if they travel with this precious metal in their pockets." About twelve o'clock we passed the river Shemsheho, which runs to the Tacazze. It carries much water in its bed, which is surrounded on the banks with beauti- ful trees. The river is full of iish ; and we saw about thirty naked men busy in catching the fish with their hands. It is well known that fish is a substitute also in Abyssinia for all other kinds of meat during the time of fasting. I understand that the new Abuna has forbidden the eating of fish during the time of fasting. From the river Shemsheho, which comes from the east, we had to ascend through a wilderness, the thorns ABUNDANCE OF FISH. 485 of wliich again damaged our clothes^ of wliicli we took care as of gold and silver. About three o'clock we were overtaken by thunder and lightning, and subsequently rain, which troubled us in general every afternoon till we had reached the province of Tigr-e, where we had very little rain. Fortunately we found shelter in a cave of rocks close to the wayside. After the rain had ceased we continued our march, having resolved not to pass the night in the Agau country, but in the first village of Enderta, which we were told we could reach before night. We were unable, however, to accompHsh this, as the rain again overtook us. At a distance we saw a village on a small hill, and we thought it better to go on in the rain, than to be overtaken on the road by the approaching night. But when we came near the village, we learned to our great astonishment, that the Go- vernor of the district had encamped in this place, and soon afterward we saw some soldiers coming to- ward us. On their asking who we were, I said, " I am a priest coming from Shoa, and I want to see your master, as 1 have heard that he is encamped here, and that he is a good man toward strangers.'' The soldiers stared at us, never ha\dng seen such a set of beings. However, they were civil, and conducted me to their master. As he did not understand Amharic, our con- versation was carried on by means of a Dragoman. He asked a hundred questions about my journey to Shoa, mv business there ; about Jerusalem, &c. ; but after all 486 ARRIVE ON THE FRONTIER he showed some compassion for me. When I left his room, he gave me a servant, who was to provide me with food and a lodging for the night. The servant on learning that I was a priest, quartered me in the house of the chief priest of the village, who was no bad man. We were made comfortable, and treated civilly in every respect. The inhabitants of this district, as well as the Governor's servants and soldiers, appeared to be very religious in their own way. They came one after the other to be blessed by me. Many had the superstitious idea which I have already mentioned, that my blessing would preserve them against the stroke of swords, spears, and gunballs; and therefore they most anxiously begged me for a blessing. A preacher of the Gospel might be able to obtain a great influence in this country, if he could understand the Agau lan- guage, to which however no attention has yet been paid by Abyssinian scholars. But, on the other hand, a juggler might also set himself up as a great man in this country. As to the language of Wag, I suppose it will be supplanted in the coui'se of time either by the Amharic, or by the Tigre language, which is spoken by most of the Agaus. It will depend on the prevalence of the government of Tigre or of Amhara. Thus we had arrived on the frontier of the Wag country, which is decidedly one of the most important and interesting provinces of Eastern Abyssinia. It would admit a larger population and a high degree of cultivation of the soil, if a better government ruled this OF THE WAG COUNTRY. 487 country. It would be necessary, however, for such a government to do away with the system of annually plundering their own subjects, as this is the very means to destroy commerce, order, cultivation of the ground, and ever)'^ improvement of human society. At present the Governor comes annually with his troops and takes away what he pleases ; and the consequence is, that the inhabitants conceal their treasures, and take flight to the mountains ; whereupon the Governor destroys their houses and fields. As Wag is a country intersected by deep dales, torrents, and steep hills, which only allow certain passages to their tops, and as the rivers of Wag would be defended, and their store-houses well pre- served on the top of their almost impregnable hills, the inhabitants would be able to check the strongest invading army, as has been the case frequently in the annals of Abyssinia. Has Ali on his last expedition, which he several years ago attempted against Wag, is a remarkable instance of this. He invaded the country with a considerable army ; but finding the natural bul- wark of the country too strong, he returned, being con- tent with devastating those districts which admitted of access. This natural fortification is the reason why the people of Wag yield only a very loose allegiance to the rulers of Gondar ; why they throw off their yoke whenever they please ; and why they use a haughty lan- guage toward the rest of Abyssinia, The chief Gover- nor of Wag is said to be in the possession of several thousand match-lock-guns, a report which may be true, 488 TAKE LEAVE OF THE GOVERNOR. as he can obtain every tiling that he wants from Mas- sowah. The principal market-place of Wag is Sokota, the capital of Wag's Governors. Its merchants carry their goods to Woldaia^ the capital of Yechoo, and go and fetch other goods from Antalo, or even from Massowah. They are principally engaged in carrying salt-pieces to the south of Wag, a business which proves of great profit to them, as the value of salt-pieces increases in the southern countries. The Agaus chiefly cultivate barley, wheat, red pepper, and maize. Their houses are of the same construction as those of other Abyssinians. I was told that gold is found in the country of Wag ; but I cannot say whether this report is true or not. I was frequently asked whether I knew how gold was to be discovered in mountanis, and how the works in mines are managed. They entertain, like all other Abyssinians, the idea that white people only come to their country in quest of gold ; and that a white man knows the places where there is gold. Ajyril 20, 1842— Early this morning I went to the Governor to thank him for his kindness, and to take leave of him. On being admitted to his presence, he appeared still more civil to me than yesterday. I did not venture, however, to ask him for provisions, and he did not offer any thing of his own accord. Ha\ing at his request given him a blessing, I started from the camp, and moved toward the river Tzana, which separates the THE RIVER TZANA. 489 country of Wag from that of Enderta and Tigre. This river rises in the east of the mountains of Wag and runs to the Tacazze. It is a fine river, and carries much water in its bed. Its banks are surrounded with trees and bushes, and the inhabitants of Wag and the people of Enderta on the other side cultivate every spot of soil which they can gain from the river. We arriv- ed at this river at eleven o'clock a. m. The last part of the Wag country, through which we had travelled this morning, was well cultivated and inhabited. This is probably owing to the inhabitants being close to the frontier of another country, to which in time of war they can take refuge. I left the Wag country with feelings of great satisfaction, although I had ex- perienced in it a great many difficulties. Its costly water — its healthy air — its pretty scenery — the man- ner of its inhabitants in asking for a blessing — and its interesting system of mountains and rivers, will be ever remembered by me. To our great sorrow we learned from peo])le coming from Antalo, the capital of Enderta, that the whole of Tigre was in a state of confusion and rebellion. We were told, that the Governor, Guebra Medhen, was encamping in the neighbourhood of the river Tzana with a considerable detachment of those ferocious Raia Gallas, who had been subject to the rulers of Tigre since the time of Ras Wolda Sclassieh and Sabagadis. This intelligence was extremely disagreeable to us, as we had believed that on entering Tigre, we should Y 5 490 NOTICES OF GUEBRA MEDHEN. meet with less difficulties and privations. But it was evidently the will of our invisible Friend to let the miseries remain on oui- shoulder to the last moment of our arrival on the coast. Guebra IMedhen was a favourite of Sabagadis, who married one of his daughters to him. When Saba- gadis died, and Oubea took possession of Tigre, Gue- bra Medhen took flight to the high mountains of the Raia Gallas, with whom he lived till the news of Oubea's captivity reachedhim in his impregnable strong- hold. He then collected a considerable force, and expelled the Governor of Silloa, who was of Oubea^s party. Silloa is that district of Enderta which we had entered, having crossed the river Tzana. Guebra Medhen joined the cause of Balgadaraia, gi-andson of Ras Wolda Selassieh, who having heard of Oubea's imprisonment by Has Ali, attempted to make himself master of Tigre, as I have mentioned above. The man who had apprised us of the state of things in Tigre, likewise informed us that the expelled Gover- nor of Silloa had collected a new force, and would pro- bably come to an engagement with Guebra Medhen. He therefore advised us to reach Antalo, if possible, before the road should be disturbed and rendered in- secure by the fighting parties, and before starvation, which is always the consequence of such disturbances, would render our situation still more precarious. Having crossed the river Tzana, which runs in a deep bed between a range of mountains on both its HALT IN THE VILLAGE OF BORA. 491 banks, we had a long and difficult ascent before us. The ciy of the Agau ploughmen resounded strongly in the dale of the Tzana, and made us sometimes believe that there was a body of troops engaged in fighting, or a brisk quarrel between some parties. I observed the same custom in many parts of Enderta. ^'VTien ploughing, they make as much noise as possible, in order to drive on their bullocks, with which they con- verse as if they were rational companions. A traveller unacquainted with the custom, or not understanding the language, would imagine that there was a quarrel or a plundering party at hand, and give way to unne- cessary apprehensions. Having arrived on the mountain which we had been ascending since we left the river Tzana, we halted in the village of Bora, being the first village in the province of 'Enderta. Here we learned that Guebra Medhen had moved his camp to the east, toward the village of Shebrara. We resolved to go and see the Governor, having found from experience that it is better to travel under the protection of the Governor of a district or province. Our road led us over rocky hills, dales, and torrents, which we cared little for, as we wished to reach the camp of Guebra Medhen before night. I can understand why the Governors of Wag and Enderta ordinarily live in peace with each other : the frontier of both provinces being of such a nature, that the diffi- culties of making inroads or entering these countries for the pui"pose of conquest are almost insurmountable. 492 DEPARTURE FROM SHEBRARA. Having arrived in Shebrara, we learned that Guebra Medhen bad moved still further to the east. We were therefore compelled to give up our intention of reach- ing him to-daj^ ; besides, it was already evening. We then looked for a lodging for the night ; but every body in the village made an excuse, by sapng that the Governor had taken their property, and rendered the people unable to receive strangers, as they had scarcely food for their own wants. With sorrowful hearts, and sometimes weeping, we went from house to house, till at last we found a host who gave us shelter and food for the night, which was a rainy and cold one, A2)ril 21, 1842 — Soon after day-break we departed from Shebrara. We did not however take om- dii-ection to the camp of Guebra Medhen, as we had been warned by om- kind host not to go there, intelligence having been received that the Raia soldiers had killed some people travelling from Antalo to the Wag country. Our host accompanied us for a considerable distance through a by-way, by which we were able to avoid the Governor's camp. But this by-way soon led us into a wilderness, where we entirely lost our road. About ten o'clock we traversed a large woody plain, where we found several ruined villages, but no inhabi- tants whom we could ask about om* road. We went on in this wilderness till about midday, when we found another village, likewise ruined, but not a single person able to show us the road. We still proceeded on in an easterly direction ; but we saw nothing but thorns ENCOUNTER GREAT DIFFICULTIES. 493 and ruined villages on some hills. Fatigue, thirst, and still more our apprehensions of the neighbouring Raia Gallas, began to vex us to a considerable degree. Being always afraid of these Gallas, I proposed to turn round to north-east and north, as this dii-ection could not lead us to their country, whatever might be the consequence. But this new route led us to a complete wilderness, where we could not observe the least trace of a human foot. The grass was so high, that we could not see one another, and one of om* party was several times left behind ; a circumstance which caused the most painful feelings, as we could not venture to make much noise on account of the Gallas, and as the approach of night precluded us from halting, and com- pelled us by all means to find our I'ight road. How- ever, we fortunately joined our man, whom the fatigues of the day, the height of the grass, and the thicket of thorns, had prevented from keeping pace with us. But the worst part of our difficulty now began. Driven in on both sides by the steepness of mountains, which we were unable to ascend, not knowing the path, we were compelled to jump from rock to rock, the space between which was sometimes overgrown with grass. Having fortunately finished this mancEuvre, we were received again by our enemies, the thorns, through which we had to wind with the utmost precaution. Profuse perspiration from this exercise — thirst and weariness— fear of the Gallas — apprehensions as to the road and approach of the night — and sorrow for 494 ARRIVE AT THE my poor starving people, exhausted me so much, that I laid down on the ground to rest, whatever might befal us in this precarious situation. All around being as still as night, and seeming des- titute and lost, we heard the purling of some water in the neighbourhood. Creeping up and down through high grass and thorns, we reached a small rivulet. This discovery produced a greater cheerfulness in our minds, than the discovery of the sources of the Nile would have given, as we now were in hope of getting out of this dreadful and endless wilderness. We first refreshed ourselves, by drinking of the delightful water of the rivulet, and then followed its northern course, in the cheerful conviction that it must lead us to our lost road. About five o^ clock we had the unutterable joy to find a road crossing the rivulet and leading up to a mountain, from which we thought we should be able to see or to learn something of the position of Antalo. The road was pretty large, and trodden by the paces of men and animals, and we had no more doubt of this being the way to Antalo. Having walked about half way up the mountain, we were met by a small company of people, who proved to be some priests and soldiers of the Governor Guebra Medhen. They had set out from Antalo for the purpose of joining their master in the camp. They were astonished at finding us quite alone without a guide or a caravan in the present state of disturbances. They regretted that we had not visited their master, who, they said, would probably VILLAGE OF MAWOINL 495 have given me a mule. They then confirmed us in the truth of our way, which we then prosecuted as cheer- fully and as quickly as our tired legs would allow. On arriving at the top of the moimtain, we saw a large valley, and many \T.llages in it. We accordingly direct- ed our course toward the valley, and took shelter for the night in the Church of St. Michael, in the village of Mawoini, as the villagers would not receive us. Tired as I was from the uncommon hardships of this day, I laid dowTi at the entrance of the church to sleep, when I was called upon by a monk, who had arrived from Debra Tabor a few months ago. He ap- peared to be no bigoted monk, and seemed to be con- cerned at our helpless condition. He called me to his little cottage, which he had built close to the church, and gave me of the holy bread, which nobody who is not in holy orders can either see or taste. This bread is properly called makfelt j i. e, portion baked only for those priests who take the Lord's Supper. It is made of the size of a small loaf, and prepared from corn-flour. It weighs a little less than a pound. The priests are only allowed to eat this bread when they have finished the Lord's Supper, as nobody can partake of this who has not fasted. This sort of bread is never shown to laymen, and is considered one of the greatest mysteries and privileges of the priesthood. The monk put it secretly in my pocket, lest my servants should see it, although they were not even allowed to come near the cottage of the holy hermit. However, I after- 496 CONVERSATION WITH ward showed it to my people^ who were astonished at finding it common bread, and at its having been with- held from their sight and considered a great mystery. Ventuiing to eat of it, they said, that it did not differ from any other sort of bread. It must be added, that this bread is prepared by the male sex, or by old women, who grind the flour and bake the loaves . Ordinarily the man must be a deacon. As the priests go daily to the Lord's Supper, they receive daily a por- tion of this bread ; but they must eat it fasting. Of course I had no objection to partake of this bread, as the fatigue of my journey had made me uncommonly hungiy. At another time I would not have accepted the gift, as the bread was very badly baked, and nothing but hot dough ; but hunger being the best sauce, I ate with great appetite, and my people were of the same mind. The monk asked me much about the time of the ap- pearance of Theodotos, whom the Abyssinians expect as the founder of a kingdom of peace and happiness on earth. I said that I knew nothing about this person, as I did not think it my duty to ask about the hour or time when the Kingdom of God will be established on earth, but to pray and labour that it might first come in my own heart, and then among my poor fellow- creatures, who did not enjoy the knowledge and the living faith of Christ. " Preach the Gospel in the whole world," I said, " then you will have a sign that God^s kingdom is at hand." I could not obtain their correct PRIESTS OF MAWOINI. 497 idea of this Theodotos, and how they heard of this name. Probably there was a former King of Abyssinia, whose peaceable character produced this idea. You frequently find this name at the end of their books ; but I am not yet clearly informed of this subject^ want- ing further enquiries. As the other priests were going to trouble me with many questions respecting Jerusalem, the Coptic Patriarch — whether he was the first prelate of the whole of Christian communities, and whether he had ordained me — respecting our di\-ine ser\dce, fasting, &c.; the monk said, " You must not trouble him with many questions, as he is tired from the fatigues of his jour- ney : let him rest, and ask him afterward.'^ The con- siderate monk also added, that he was always angry at such childish people who troubled him with questions on his journeys, and that he thought it was very im- proper. This monk was much respected by all whom I saw around him, and I think he is an exception to the generality of monks. He was accessible to scrip- tural explanations. that I might have once the in- finite pleasure of finding one, only one, real and enlightened Christian in Abyssinia ! Many are not far from the kingdom of heaven ; but what is the use of their drawing near the door, if they will not go in ? However, I will not get tired with Abyssinia, till the Lord in His infinite mercy gives the increase to our planting and watering. In the evening the priests gave us some bread and 498 LEAVE THE VILLAGE OF MAWOINL pepper-soup for our supper. They said that they were not rich, as Oubea had taken their property, and related to us some instances of his cruelty in pulling out the eyes and cutting off the hands of many of his subjects. April 22, 1842 — The terrible noise of the singing priests, and still more the fleas, which are always the greatest torture to those who pass the night in churches, had annoyed me so much, that I waited for the break of day with the most ardent desire. As soon as it dawned, we got up and departed, having taken leave of the priests last evening. On our road, which was exactly west, we saw plenty of villages ruined by Oubea, of whose barbarity the whole country bears witness. About nine o'clock we crossed a rivulet called Gumalo. It runs through a dale of steep banks. On the western banks we saw a village, which we took for Antalo, as the priests of Mawoini had told us that Antalo was quite close, and that we would reach it in the forenoon ; but I frequently found that priests and monks in Abyssinia have not the least idea of dis- tances. Having crossed the rivulet Gumalo, we had to ascend considerably till we reached the village, like- wise called Gumalo. The banks of the bed of the rivulet are well cultivated, as the soil can be watered at all times. From Gumalo we marched south-west, and were led to an immense plain with some slight elevations. On arriving at this plain, we got a sight ARRIVE AT ANTALO. 499 of AntalOj situated at the foot of a mountain, the soil of which presented a red appearance. The plain, how- ever, was considerably lower than the situation of Antalo; and the nearer we approached the town, the more we had to ascend. When we first saw it, we thought it nearer than it really was, as is frequently the case when a traveller calculates distances from a plain. He is often greatly disappointed, and it re- quii'es more practice in calculating distances, than one would commonly think. We arrived at Antalo about four o'clock. Being unable to find a lodging for the night, we repaired to the Chiu'ch of St. George, which was splendidly built by Ras Wolda Selassieh, who is well known by Mr. Salt's Mission to this ruler. The priests of this church difi"ered much fi'om those whom we had met in other churches on our road. They were better dressed ; but they assumed a greater air of haughtiness, particularly the Alaca, who looked down upon my poor appearance with much disdain. He would not allow me to pass the night in the little house called Decha-Salama, at the en- trance of the church, in which strangers are usually quar- tered. However, he procured me a room in the neighbour- hood ; but this was full of women and soldiers, who at first would not listen to the Alaca's orders, and the women began to lament crying out, " Woi Giptzi ! woi Giptzi ! " " Egyptian ! Egyptian ! " The Europeans arc all called lOgyptians, the geographical knowledge of the Abyssinians regarding other countries being very 500 NOTICES RESPECTING THE scanty indeed. However, they have lately begun to know the difference between the English, French, and Germans. Only one of the priests came to see me in my room, who entered into conversation on religious matters. He knew the Rev. S. Gobat well, and spoke favourably of him. He gave me two pieces of salt, requesting that I would buy some hydromel, or Abyssinian honey wine. He also gave us some bread, which with what was sent us by the other priests was sufficient to serve us for our supper in the evening. My people went round the town; but nobody would give them any thing; so that we should have really starved if we had refused to go to the church. Besides, nobody would give us a lodging for the night. I must con- fess that I had conceived a more favourable idea of the hospitality of the Tigrians ; but I was wholly dis- appointed. Perhaps if I had possessed property, I should have been received better. The circumference of Antalo is considerable ; but the greater part of the houses have been ruined. Merso, the brother of Oubea, whom this tyrant ap- pointed Governor of Antalo, after Cassai, the son of Sabagadis, had been imprisoned, destroyed a gi-eat many of the houses of Antalo. It must have been before a pretty town. Its founder was Ras "VYolda Selassieh, who has chosen a suitable place for his capital. Below Antalo is an immense plain, through which several brooks run. This plain served for the TOWN OF ANTALO. 501 excursions of Ras Wolda Selassieh, and for the \^'ants of his househokl horse. The neighboiu-hood of the Raia Gallas was frequently the theatre of war, and Ras Wolda Selassieh by residing at Antalo could secure the weakest point of his extensive dominions. I learned with regret that Balgadaraia, the grand- son of Ras Wolda Selassieh, had set out from Antalo with his troops the day before I arrived, in order to attack IN^ebrid Wolda Selassieh, Governor of Axum, who kept up the influence and party of Oubea. I was also told, that a European had arrived from Adowah to join Balgadaraia on his march. I was sorry that I had been deprived of the opportunity of making my acquaintance with this new ruler of Tigre. From what I could learn, the Tigrians are very fond of him, and they entertain the hope that he will be able to stand the field against Oubea, should he march against Tigre after he has settled the business with his brother Merso in Semien. Should Oubea really return, and regain his cause in Tigre, he would probably desolate the whole country, which is already reduced to the very brink of ruin. At all events, I cannot believe that the British Government will be ready to assist such a proud, avaricious, cruel, and cunning ruler. Every assistance granted to him, would be nothing else than putting a sword into his hands to use against his own subjects ; and notwithstanding all the generosity which the British might show toward him, he would iu!ver be a sincere friend to them nor to otlier Europeans. He 502 LEAVE ANTALO FOR CHELICUT. would only make them the means of obtaining his own objects^ principally to get from them the same pleasing things which he knows have been given to the King of Shoa. I had intended, for many important reasons, to pro- ceed from Antalo to Adowah; but the distance of three or four days deviation from my route, the way being through starving and distm'bed countries, and my ardent desire to reach Massowah, and the end of my miseries and hardships, would not allow me to make this deviation from my road, although I knew that I should deprive myself of much valuable information respecting the state of the country, which I might have been able to collect at Adowah. April 23, 1842. — At a very early hour this morning we set out for Chelicut, about six or eight miles from Autalo. A body of soldiers, who were going to join Balgadaraia on his march to Adowah, accompanied us for a considerable distance. They were in very good humour, and had gi-eat hopes of a favoui'able result of their master's expedition. Our road was pretty plain. Not far from Antalo we saw an immense flock of baboons, called in Amharic Eatchie, of a somewhat white colour. They were close to the wayside. I was surprised at the good order in which they marched, some large ones walking before and behind each line, which they formed. After a few moments they halted a little and gazed at us, as if they were about to make an attack upon us. They marched round a small SITUATION OF CHELICUT. 503 elevated spot, and then crossed our road, where they agam halted a little, till they walked up to a larger hill in as perfect order as if they had been ranged in a square. The noise which their movements produced exactly resembled the bustle of a small body of horse marching over a grass plot. I thought it would be well were the Abyssinian soldiers in their military movements to imitate these brutes in the regularity of their march and continual circumspection and recon- noitring. This kind of monkey is generally acknow- ledged by the Abyssinians as a sort of more ferocious ape. Chelicut is situated in a little dale intersected by a ri^Tilet which provides the town with water. This situation in Europe would give rise to the establish- ment of numerous manufactories ; but in Abyssinia nobody thinks or exerts himself to make use of the benefits arising from the natm'c of the country. The inhabitants are ready to accept ^\4th the greatest eagerness pleasing things as presents ; but they have little desire to manufacture them by hard labour. Having heard that there was in Chelicut an Armenian who worked in leather, I called u])on him ; but I found him suffering in his eyes. I did not venture to ask him for a supply of any thing, as I was aware of his being a poor man ; but even the offer of a piece of bread, or a horn of Abyssinian beer, which at all events he possessed, would have delighted me more than any thing else ; but he appeared dui'ing his 504 THE VILLAGE OF ARENA MARIAM : stay in Abyssinia to have adopted the same unkind and inhospitable manners which the greater part of the Abyssinians observe toward an unfortunate tra- veller. From Chelicut we took our direction to Adigrate. Our road was pretty plain. Sometimes we had to ascend a slight hill. But although we had now a better road compared with that in Lasta and Wag, yet we were considerably inconvenienced from not having plenty of water^ which we had found in abundance in those countries. Besides this, the heat of the valleys of Tigre was an addition to those inconveniences, with which our journey through that country had abounded, from the inhospitable reception of the natives, and from the rumours of war and dissoluteness of the soldiers. The approach of the evening reminded us of our un- pleasant business of begging the people for a night^s lodging. For this purpose we halted in a village called Arena Mariam, at some distance from the wayside. Having waited for some time on a place where most of the villagers could see us and guess our demands, we were invited by a man who was bleeding a sick bullock before his house. He sent us to a wretched cottage close to his house. This cottage, which served as a stable for his cattle at night, was surrounded by a stone wall, and only a part of the roof was slightly covered with grass. As the proprietor had invited us of his own accord, his duty was to treat us with some atten- UNKINDNESS OF THE VILLAGERS. 505 tion ; but we had oiu'selves to look out for our supplies for the night. ]\Iy servants went out begging, and re- turned with some floiu', which we begged the wife of our host to make into bread ; but she positively refused to do it, except she had a share of the floui-, which was scarcely sufficient to provide half a ration for each of our party. The other materials, wood and water, we of course had to fetch oursehes. After a long dispute she gave us the vessels in order that we might prepare the bread. On giving us the vessels, she said, " I am giving them for my soul's sake." We had rain at night ; but fortunately not much, as our stable would not take off the water. I felt great consolation in thinking of the approaching termination of our journey, and I troubled myself little about the increase or decrease of difficulties. Jpril 24, 1842 — The unkind treatment of our host hurried our departure from Arena Mariam. Probably on our an-ival he had expected that I could cure his bullock with charms, and with this expectation perhaps invited us to pass the night with him ; but as soon as he found himself disappointed, he took no further notice of us. The road to-day and the nature of the country was almost the same as we observed yesterday, namely, plains, with slight hills. The want of water was again very perceptible, and we seldom saw a village or hamlet. The soil was stony, and not particularly lit for cultiva- tion. We found no water till we reached the river Haikamcsal, which runs to the Tacazze. Before we z 506 liNHOSPlTALITY OF THE TIGRIANS. crossed this river, we met a man, who hearing of our distress for want of food, gave us a little basso. This is the flour of barley, which is first roasted on the fire in a vessel of clay, and then ground. When mixed up with water, it is no bad food; and it is quickly prepared when you are on a journey. We accepted this present from the man with cordial thanks, as our scanty repast of yesterday evening had left us nothing for this day, and the villages were far ofi" from the wayside ; so that we should have tasted nothing at all to-day, if Provi- dence had not inclined this man to provide us with as much food as was requisite for our starving bodies. Having refreshed ourselves with the water of Haika- mesal and with the basso, we continued our march, in the cheerful confidence that He who feeds the birds, would also feed us in the evening, the approach of which always caused painful feelings in our minds, since we had experienced the inhospitality of the Tigrians. Had we possessed some jn'operty, we should not have been at a loss; for if the Tigrians see property, they will seldom be inhospitable. Such was the case with those travellers who overvalued Abyssinian hos- pitality. But let these persons travel without money, or without articles passing for money, and you will find that they will give another, but more correct idea and description of Abyssinian hospitality. About midday we were met by a man, who informed us, with tears in his eyes, that he had been deprived by soldiers on the road of his provisions, his sword^ and ^\RRIVE AT THE VILLAGE OF MABERKA. 507 his cloth. "\Ye were sorry that we could uot help him. At the same time our sorrow and apprehensions of perhaps sharing the same fate in the course of the day, caused us to look with anxiety and timidity after those places which we thought dangerous, and where we might fall in with a rowing party of robbers. But our hea- venly Father, who well knew that our sufferings had already been considerable, graciously preserved and protected us, and brought us to a Adllage called Ma- berka, where, although a stable full of fleas was given as our lodging, and a sour look, and other unkind treatment wounded our hearts, yet we were content with a few horns of beer and some paste called tello, being confident that we were daily advancing nearer to the sea coast. Tello is prepared from the flour of barley. The barley is first boiled in a little hot water, and then roasted in a vessel of clay. It is then ground, and the flour is mixed up with water, or oil, or the Abyssinian pepper-soup. It is indeed a very miserable and dis- gusting dish ; but necessity had taught us to despise nothing. April 25, 1842 — This morning at a very early hour wc left Maberka, and halted a few hours afterward in the WUagc of Atzbie, where I leanied that a European had been there a few days ago. Before entering the village, I observed an elevated stone, about fifteen or eighteen feet in height, which appeared from a distance to be a broken obelisk. It therefore attracted my curiosity, z 2 508 OBELISK AT ATZBIE. and iuduced me to go near. I found pieces of it scattered over the gi'oimd ; but I could not observe any inscription or hieroglj^Dhic figui'es. On asking a villager about the meaning of this stone, which was evidently erected for some purpose, I was told, that there was a celebrated convent in the village consecrated to the Holy Trinity ; and that the stone had been placed there, in order that a murderer who should take refuge to the convent and once reach the stone, should not be persecuted by his avenger. I then asked the man whether he had seen the obelisks at Axum. He re- plied in the affirmative, and said that they were erected by people who wanted to go to heaven and fight a battle with God Almighty. Such are the strange opinions of the natives concerning these astonishing remnants of ancient architecture. Having left Atzbie, the attack of fever, which had commenced this morning, increased. It was occasioned most likely in consequence of my sleeping last night outside the house on the wet ground in the cold-, and without sufficient bedding. The fleas had tormented me so much, that I was compelled to risk sleeping out- side the house. Happily, we were met by the same man who had yesterday given us some basso. As his village was close to the wayside, he observed us after we had passed by the village, and ran after us, and called us to his house. This invitation was certainly most providentially, not only because we had taken a wrong route toward the Shoho countiy, but still more VILLAGE OF BORRE. 509 as our halting in his house rehevecl me from fever. I had first hot water prepared for a foot bath^ and then took a httle cofi"ee and went to sleep. On getting up I felt considerably better. We then ate and di'ank whatever our kind host placed before us ; and having refreshed om-selves, we resumed our march. IMay God in His mercy give the man his reward in heavenly and eternal goods and blessings for the kind assistance which he gave me when help was needed ! The meeting with this man yesterday and this morning, when we were in great distress, was indeed one of my most remarkable experiences on the whole journey, and clearly showed me the Divine interposition. I was told by my host that we were only a distance of five days journey to the village of Borre on the coast of the Red Sea ; but that the road was extremely dangerous, and that nobody would guide us there for fear of being murdered by the Danakil. Last year some Christian merchants endeavoiu'cd to open that route ; but they were all killed by the Danakil. How- ever, the Danakil bring merchandise from Borre to Tigre; but they will not allow other people to go down. As Borre is not far from Mocha, I should have liked to have gone this road ; but who would guide me, how could I afibrd the means for the guide, and where had I other means of defence ? Travellers, however, well provided and armed might succeed in opening a road, which would be of the greatest importance for the in- tercourse with Tigre. 510 VILLAGE OF MASAOT. The white appearance of the mountains of this dis- trict struck me much, having nowhere observed it be- foi'e. Our road was generally plaiu^ and I should think camels might be able to go from Atzbie to Antalo. In the evening we halted in the village of Masaot. As the villagers would not receive us, we went to the Chm'ch of St. Michael, the priests of which proved to be very light-minded, and frivolous in their conversa- tion and manners. April 26, 1842 — As there was a priest in Masaot, who promised to leave the place in a few days on a journey to Shoa, I availed myself of this opportunity to write a few lines to Capt. Harris, Her Majesty's Representative in Shoa, to inform him of my safe arrival in Tigre. The priest promised to take charge of my letter. We intended to take our direction toward Senafe to the Shoho country ; but we were advised not to do so in the present circumstances of the unsettled state of things in Tigre. We therefore marched toward Adi- grate. At nine o'clock we reached the market Gooila, and halted at midday in the village of Agoddi. Here we went into a house to beg for some food, as we were exceedingly hungry. Tello, mixed up with oil and red pepper, was again offered to us ; but it had a better taste than formerly. The man who received us into his house, bitterly complained of Oubea's tyranny last year against the district, when he plundered and burnt their houses. To our right we saw the high mountain Haramat, MOUNT ITARAMAT. 511 where Cassai made his defence before he was imprisoned by an artifice of Oubea, who swore eight times before ninety priests that he would do no harm to Cassai, if he would surrender himself and his stronghold. Cassai did so ; but was immediately put in chains ; and the priests, who reminded Oubca of his solemn oaths, were also imprisoned. In the evening we met the Governor of a district near Adigrate. We ventured to remind him that wc were afflicted strangers, and appealed to his kindness ; but on hearing that I was an Englishman, he avoided having anything to do with me, as he liked the French. He knew well the difference of both, and was acquainted with the Europeans of Adowah. He said, " Go to any church youlike.^^ We walked off, and went to a church; but there was no priest. We therefore asked after the Superior, who, understanding that we wanted to rest with him, instantly left the house, pretending to have some business without. His wife bid vis go to another house, as she had no room for our accommodation, her house being full of cattle. On her husband returning and finding us still sitting before his door, he said, " I have told you once that I cannot quarter you this night, as I have plenty of cattle in my house : go away in- stantly." " Well then," I said, " you are a priest as well as I am. You know that the Word of God orders Christians, and particularly priests, to be kind toward strangers, especially toward the afflicted. If you will not receive me, I will go this moment ; but you must 512 ARRIVAL AT ADIGRATE. know that God will judge between me and you if you like your cattle more than your distressed fellow-crea- tm-e.^' We then went off. As the man who had provided us in the afternoon with telloj had also given us a little flour for use on the road, we went to another house in order to make some bread. But the woman whom we begged to pre- pare the bread made only three small cakes, and threw the remainder of the meal into our bag, refusing to make any more. In the mean time the priest sent word that we might rest in his house. We accepted his invitation, but not till he had called us twice, in order to make him feel om- dissatisfaction at his behavi- our. Probably he was frightened at what I said to him on leaving his house. I did not, however, speak in anger, but in a spirit of sorrow at man^s mckedness and worldly miudedness. The priest introduced us to a stable, in which were about 100 head of oxen and cows, besides a great num- ber of sheep. We had to look out for a place, lest the cows should kick or trample us under their feet in the course of the night. The priest did not give us a morsel of bread, and we could scarcely obtain from him a little water to quench our excessive thirst, as the water was brought from a distance. April 27, 1842 — We departed early from the nllage of Mashagheria- jMariam, where we had rested last night. About nine o^ clock we arrived in Adigrate. I went to the Church of St. Chirkos, which, I was told, had been VISIT THE CHURCfl OF ST. CHIRKOS. 513 built by i\Ir. Eicbinger, tbe German carpenter who was mth Mr, Gobat in Tigre. The form of tbe interior does not differ from other chiu'ches, though there is more regularity observed, and is richly embellished with paintings and pictui*es, representing lions, elephants, hysenas, &c. It is a square building ; but in other re- spects it is like tbe rest of the Abyssinian Cburcbes. The priests recollected Mr. Eichinger, as well as Mr. Gobat. One of them gave me some flour, and his wife also baked a few cakes for our use on the road. I could not help thinking in my mind that probably this priest had experienced much kindness from Mr. Gobat, which he was now desirous of returning to me. Adigrate is situated in a large plain, suiTOunded by mountains. Tbe village is not veiy large, and at pre- sent almost the whole is in ruins. It was built by Sa- bagadis, if I am not mistaken. The present Governor is Ayto Beraki, who however was not at home, having set out with Balgadaraia on the expedition above men- tioned. Before wc entered the village we crossed a small rivulet, which supplies the villagers with water. We did not stop long; but continued our march. On the left we saw a large village, which they called Kcrsaber, being much larger than Adigi*ate. Our road this afternoon was not so plain as it had been for several days. Near the village of Maniberot we received some beer and basso from a man, whom the narrative of our joui'ncy had aflfected. He was ready Z 5 514 ARRIVAL AT BEHAT. to sell some grain ; but what could we give iu return ? My head-servant, Atkoo, agreed to sell his belt, saying, it was better to do so than to starve. We then bought some barley and hogs' beans. Afterward we went to the Church of Mamberot ; but as there was no priest, we could not pass the night in the church. We then endeavoured to beg for a lodging in the village ; but all our petitions were in vain, till a man offered a stable, which was sufficient to shelter us against the coldness of the night and the wild beasts. Our situation daily became worse with the increase of the inhospitality of the Tigrians. We had travelled through a very hilly country, which was not much cultivated, probably for want of water. April 28, 1842— We left Mamberot with sunrise. Our direction was north-east. We marched through a very rocky territory, and but little cultivated and peopled. Here and there we saw a hamlet on the wayside. In the village of Dagadi we got some bread and beer. From thence our direction was east. We arrived at Behat about three o'clock p. m. We intended to stay here till the next day, in order to inquire after our road, and to collect some provisions for our journey through the Shoho country ; but when we applied to the prin- cipal priest, whom we met on our way, we got the rude answer — " There is the road ; do not stop here : rest somewhere else. We have no room for you." This roughness made us so sad, that we resolved to use our utmost endeavours to leave Tigre as quick as possible. CHARACTER OP THE PEOPLE OP SENAPE. 515 Behat is a large village, situated in a plain. Before we entered this plan, we had a very difficult and steep des- cent. Having passed the village, Ave had to ascend again and to march toward Teltal, a part of the Shoho country. Having- reached the summit of the moun- tain, which we had been ascending since we left Behat, we came to another extensive plain, which was much cultivated and peopled, being surrounded by villages. This plain is the eastern boundary of Tigre, beyond which plain in the east there are no more Christians. On our road we had heard from a merchant that the people of Senafe were very bad and fanatic Mahomedans ; and that we could not travel close to the Shoho country without a guide or some other kind of protection. He therefore advised us to go to one of the numerous vil- lages around, and to wait for the market-people, who, coming from a market in the neighbourhood, would pass Senafe to-morrow ; and with them we should go to Tekunda, where the Governor, Ayto Habta IMichael, would send iis to Massowah. This intelligence was most providential, and indeed saved our lives, because, had we not known this, we should have continued our march, and should cither have been entirely stript by the people of Senafe, or killed by the Shohos, as we did not know the road, and should have been led to the Shoho villages, which we should have taken for villages of Tigre. Having obtained this important information, wc went to the Church of St. George, in the \illagc of She- 516 CONVERSATION ON FASTING WITH masana. The Alaca of this Church is a blind priest. He showed much intelligeuce in reasoning. He knew of the English and French. He also knew Mr. Isen- berg. He said^ that the English did not fast ; to which I replied, that as Christ had neither ordered nor forbidden fasting, the English did not commit sin if they omitted fasting, as nobody would be justified before God by means of fasting ; that we did not how- ever prevent any one from fasting, if he wished to do so of his own accord ; yea, it might be useful, if con- nected with prayer and meditation ; but that it would be sinful as soon as we had the least idea or intention of being saved by fasting. The Alaca then said, that fasting had been ordered by the 318 fathers assembled at Nice. I replied, " Supposing this to be true, we are not obliged to obseiTC their regulations, as theirs is not the Word of God, which never recommends fast- ing as an in\dolable commandment.'^ During the conversation, the man showed neither passion nor anger. When it was terminated, the priests took their last regular and copious supper, it being the evening of Maundy-Thursday, when the Abyssinians, particularly the priests, are obliged to abstain entirely from food till Easter morning. We also received a share of their meal. The Alaca then ordered us to go to the village of jMeshaikh, where a friend of his had promised to give us a lodging for the night, and so send us off with the market people to Tekunda, distant a few hours' journey from St. George's. AN ALACA OF THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE. 517 The Alaca begged me for a few copies of the iEthi- opic New Testament and Psalter, which I promised to send him ; but I do not know how these can be sent there, as the place is out of the way from Adowah. However, I will endeavour to fulfil my promise. People who go through Senafe, always go in gi-eat numbers, and therefore wait for the others. Senafe is subjected to the ruler of Tigre. He cannot however keep them in strict dependence, as they take refuge with their countrjonen the Shohos, as soon as the Tigrian army advances against them. April 29, 1842 — At daybreak this morning we set out from jNIeshaikh, the market people being desirous of departing before the heat would be too powerful. They came from the market of the ^^llage of Tchegnara^ which was held yesterday. I was most fortunate in hanng joined this party, as the Governor of Senafe, a very ferocious looking Shoho, stood in the way, and declared that he would not allow the Eg^-ptian to pass before he had paid him a dollar. I said, that I had no money, having been deprived of all my property by Adara Bille in the "Wollo country. But he would not believe me, and said, "The Egyptians have always money." The quarrel ran high, as the leader of the party of the market people spoke in my favour. The Shoho then said, that the market people should go their wav, and he would settle the matter alone with us ; but they refused to depart without me and my 518 DISPUTE WITH THE party, well knowing the Shobos would kill us and take off our clothes instead of the money. The quarrel was renewed ; but the Shoho would not consent to my departure. It was decided by the leader to send a messenger to the Governor at Meshaikh ; but I was against this measiu-e, as it would have kept us too long on the spot, and I would not have the people wait on my account. I offered a piece of cloth which I had worn around my head to protect it against the powerful heat of the sun. I threw this peice of cloth at the Shoho's feet, and said, " This is all that I can give you. If you will not accept this, I will go back and take another road which does not lead me through your country." The leader of the caffila encoui'aged him to be content with the piece of cloth, which was worth about five pieces of salt ; but he still refused, till a general tumult was raised on account of the caffila having been detained so long. They then allowed us to depart. This occurrence reminded me of my having again met that set of people, which are beyond all doubt the worst on earth. I remembered the endless quarrels which the Shohos had given me four years ago, when I travelled through their country to Adowah. At that time I had some valuable goods, and could not expect that they would not allow me to pass without a con- siderable charge ; but on this occasion, when I possess- ed nothing at all, I thought that they would have had compassion on me. But I was completely disappointed GOVERNOR OF SEXAFE. 519 in this expectation. These people have entirely thrown away all human feelings, and appear to find the great- est pleasiu'e in tortui'ing their fellow-crcatiu-es. In one wordj if you see a Shoho, you must think you have before you, as it were, the very devil on earth. It is useless to give a mild opinion of this people, as even the strongest expression will appear to be too mild in the eyes of those who have dwelt with the Shohos and Danakil by frequent experience. Having settled the business with the Shoho of Senafc, we proceeded on oiu* road with the caffila through a stony and woody wilderness, being continually appre- hensive of a body of Shohos attacking us from the east of our route. This woody wilderness, which was full of juniper- trees, is exactly the place for a gang of robbers^ as they could break forth on all sides from the wood and catch you up in the narrow rocky road. About nine o'clock we found a well of good water. Here we halted till the whole party had assembled, and then the caffila separated, each individual taking the direction to his own village. Some took the du-ec- tion to Halai, in the north ; while we proceeded with some people to Tckunda, which is at present the usual starting place from Tigre to Arkceko. I understood that an arrangement had lately been made between the new Naib of Arkeeko, whose name is Hassan, and Ayto Habta jNIichael, the Governor of Tckunda, that tlie Halai route should be given up, and that of Tckunda substituted. It appears that the Governor of 520 .ARRIVAL AT TEKUNDA. Halai had a quarrel \^^th the Naib, who opened another^ and I must add, a much better route to Tigre. We amved at Tekunda after ten o'clock. The Governor, Habta Michael, seeing om* very poor ap- pearance, took veiy little notice of us at first ; as did also his brother, "N^'olda Gaben. He asked, whether I was an Englishman, and whether I knew Samuel Go- bat and Mr. Shimper. Upon my answering in the affirmative, he became a little more civil, and gave us a little bread and some hogs' beans. \Mien he heard that Adara Bille, the Chieftain of Lagga Ghora, had robbed me, he said, " There are several Mahomedan pilgrims Avith me, subjects of that Chieftain ; will you not take revenge and take of their clothes ? " 1 replied, " No, I cannot do this, and by no means on this day, being Good Friday, because Christ died for all mankind, the holy for the unholy, and for His enemies, to bear their guilt, to reconcile them to His Father, and to give the spirit of love and peace in the Holy Ghost. Seeing therefore His example of love and resignation before me, I cannot deprive these pilgiims of their property, although you give me the permission to do so. Besides, they are strangers, and have no share in their master's robbery and wickedness," I then became acquainted with the pilgrims, Avho were really subjects of Adara Bille. They had arrived a few days ago from Mecca ; but were obliged to stay here, one of their party being sick. 1 told them, that they might inform Adara Bille of my having advanced KINDLY RECEIVED BY THE GOVERNOR. 521 thus far to the coast — that his name had become offen- sive so far, and would become still more so — and that God would judge him, and not myself, as my religion ordered me to pray for those who do me harm, and to bless those who hurt me. The pilgrims felt them- selves very mieasy ; but I told them that they need not be afraid of me, as I would do them no harm. At the same time I begged the Governor not to be angry with them on my account. Ajto Habta Michael then made us a little comfort- able, by giving us a large new room and a quantity of provisions. I was very glad indeed at having at length found a resting place, where I could devote these holy days exclusively to religious purposes ; bare necessity having compelled me since I had left Shoa to travel on Sundays, at least to move from one village to another, as people were so inhospitable as not to allow me to stay in their houses more than one night. April 30, 1842 — The Governor promised this morn- ing that he would send to the next Shoho village for a guide to take us to Arkeeko, as the Shohos would kill us if we travelled through their country without having a guide from them ; but that this guide would require a dollar for his trip to Dohono or Ilarkceko— not Arkeeko, as we always pronounce according to the maps. I said, that I had no money; but that I should be able to i)rocure some at Massowah. He said, " It does not signify : the Shoho must wait, and 1 will wait also, till you have got money." It is cus- 523 DEPARTURE FROM TEKUNDA. tomary for the Shoho guide to receive half a dollar, and the other half is given to the Governor ; but I believe the Abyssinians pay only half a dollar to the guide, and nothing to the Governor. Hovrever, I would not bargain about this, as the Governor showed me much kindness in my distress. May 1, 1843 — This morning the Governor settled the matter with the Shoho guide and mshed us to depart ; but the Shoho wanted his money to be paid before moving from Tekunda. To this I would not consent. Then the Shoho requested me to make oath that I would not leave him in the lurch at Dohono. I replied, that whether I made oath or not, it would be the same thing, as it would depend on the man who would lend me money at Arkeeko or Massowah ; that if any one would lend me money, I would pay him without taking an oath ; and that if no one would lend me money, the oath would be useless, as I could not pay him. It would therefore be better for him not to press this matter, but to go with me to Dohono, believing on my word. At length the Shoho gave in, and we immediately left Tekunda. After walking about a mile we reached a well, which is the spring of a river running to the Samhar. The people of Tekunda must go thus far to fetch their water. Tekunda is a small hamlet, situated on a hill ; but it is now important on account of the communication with the sea, and I believe I am the first European who went this new route, which how- BURIAL GROUNDS. 523 ever falls into the old road after you have travelled about ten miles. I was delighted with having seen the beginning of a river, which runs from this point as far as the sea some distance from Arkeeko ; but the river is diy dimng the hot season, and the traveller finds water only at certain places. As far as I could ascertain without a compass, it runs first from south to north, then to north-east-east. We had a very good and plain road through a woody wilderness. It is much superior to the road of Halai, which leads over the difiicult mount of Shumfeito. On the Tekunda road you descend by degrees, and the road might be trodden even by camels, if it could be improved a little by removing some rocks in the way. "We saw several bm-ial grounds on our road. On passing by, our guide always recited certain prayers, the nature of which I could not make out, as he did not understand either Amharic or Arabic. The appear- ance of graves in the wilderness also produced a deep impression on my oa\ti mind. About eleven o^clock we arrived at that part of the Tekunda road which joins that of Halaia. I imme- diately knew this route, and we afterward came to a few high trees, where the camels are usually discharged and sent back to the coast. I recollected the spot well, where, four years ago, I had three days quarrel with the Shohos for the hiring of bullocks to carry my luggage up the mount Shumfeito. At that time they wanted two dollars for each bullock ; whereas the 524 DISPUTE WITH THE SHOHOS. customary charge was only half a dollar. I saw here, at a distance of about sixty yards under some trees, a large wild goat looking after us fearlessly. It would have made us a good and delicious dinner had not Adara Bille deprived us of our fire-arms. I requested our guide to halt under these trees for the purpose of par- taking of the hogs' beans which the Governor of Tekunda had given me. The remembrance of what had occurred to me four years ago was quite fresh, and at the same time I felt thankful to the Father of all mercies that I was not then on my coming from Europe exposed to the hardships of my present jom-ney, as at that time I should not have been able to have borne them. While I was engaged in these contemplations, three Shohos approached and asked me, in their usual boisterous and noisy manner, for a dollar, because they were great and influential men among the Shohos. I pointed at a stone on the ground, saying, that was all I could give them. After a long dispute, no more mention was made of the dollar ; but now they wanted some coffee, which was also refused. Finally, they allowed us to depart. We rested at night not far from Hamhammo. We slept under some large trees near the water. A beautifully cool air refreshed us, and we were not in the least molested, as nobody was with us except the guide. The trunk of a large tree was set on fire, which burnt the whole night, and served to frighten the wild beasts, which abound in this large torrent of the Samhar. LEAVE FOR ARKEEKO. 525 Before going to bed we took om* simple supper, con- sisting of hogs' beans and tello, which we ate with as much pleasure and contentment as the most splendid supper in the world. I remembered many of my friends in Europe, and I wished them to participate for a moment in the happiness I felt in this simple supper. Still more I wished them to join with me in bowing our knees before om* gracious and Almighty Lord, who had shown me so many mercies through the inte- rior of Abyssinia. May 2, 1842 — With ardent desire we saluted the ap- proach of this day, which should bring us almost to the end of om* miserable journey. We arose about four o'clock ; and although my legs would scarcely move, in consequence of the exertions of yesterday over the stony bed of the torrent, through which the road led us, yet the anticipation of my journey's end gave me, I might say, more than human strength. Wc travelled almost the whole day, although the heat in the narrow valley was very excessive. About two o'clock p.m. we arrived at a place, where the guide told us that we were to take water, as at this season no water would be found till we reached Arkccko. We then filled a large water-bag, which the Governor of Tekunda had given us for the road, the guide being ordered to take it back to Tekunda. We travelled on till after night, when my legs were so tired and sleep overtook me, that I frequently fell down on the ground. Thirst and hun- ger also tormented me to the utmost. The more I 526 ALARMED BY A PARTY OF SIIOIIOS. drank, the more I got thirsty ; and the few hogs^ beans which my people still carried with them, did not satisfy my appetite. After night-fall I had requested from the guide to let us have a rest any where in the wilderness, as it was almost impossible for me to move any fm'ther; but he declared that he could not stop on account of the Bedouins and the wild beasts, and that we should go further on till he would point out a proper spot. I said, " All this does not signify, let us only rest a few hours." However, I continued marching for some time ; but as the guide would still not listen to me, I laid do^\Ti on the ground, and said, " You may now do as you like : you may stop or go ; for my part I will not move from here till I have rested a few hours." He then gave in, and we rested on the sand only a few yards from the wayside. In this situation we were most fortunate. I did not think that the Bedouins strolled over the wdlderness at such an early hour — about two o'clock in the morning. But a pai'ty of Shohos passed the very road where we were sleeping. Proba- bly they were of Waia, a Shoho place a few miles dis- tant from us. Happily they did not observe us, pro- bably taking our figures for stones. Besides, they \^re talking so loud, and making so much noise, that they did not hear the snoring of my people. Only the guide and myself awoke from their noisy conversation ; but we kept silence as much as possible, till they had passed altogether. I was in a very melancholy and apprehensive situation at this moment, as I did not ARRIVE AT ARKEEKO. 527 know whether they were friends or enemies. I could not however expect that a Shoho, who is an enemy in the day, would be a friend at night. As soon as they had passed by without observing us, we resolved to depart. The moon just rose, being in her wane. The idea that we were so close to the coast, and that any unfortunate occurrence should happen, gave us corn-age and strength to reach the coast as quickly as possible. Besides, hunger, thii'st, and weariness, drove us on. The immense plain of Arkeeko annoyed us very much. ^Ve saw the place from a distance ; but although we exerted ourselves to the utmost, it still appeared distant and imattainable. About nine o'clock a.m. we reached the wells of water close to Arkeeko. We first paid a hearty wel- come to this water, as om*^s was all gone. We then moved, almost half lamed, toward the house of the Governor, whom we happened to meet on the road. He ordered his servants to give us a room and to make us comfortable. This was done, and I laid down on a small bedstead with the indescribable feelings of joy, thanksgivings, and adoration to my heavenly Father, who had enabled me to overcome so many hardships — who had gi-aciously watched and protected my hfe in so many dangerous and critical moments — who had fed me in the wilderness and deserts, and preserved me from starvation — who had su])portcd me in so many temjitations of body and mind — who had given me so many invisible and spiritual consolations — and who 528 ARRIVAL AT had upheld me with His strength in my weakness and helplessness. The glory be to Him for ever and ever ! May 3, 1842 — As already mentioned, we arrived this morning at Arkeeko, and were apparently well received by the Naib Hassan. I first inquu-ed whether there was an English vessel bound for Aden in the port of Mas- sowah. They said, that an English schooner had left the harbour three days ago. She had brought over Mr. Coffin from Aden. As I understood that Mr. Coffin was at Arkeeko, I went immediately to him, although I could scarcely move my legs. He gave me some interesting news from Europe and Egypt. But what affected me most was the intelligence, that the Brethren Muller and Muhleisen, on whose account I had partly made the journey, had returned to Egypt ; and that my dear brother, the Rev. W. Kruse, at Cairo, had been deprived by death of his amiable, intelligent, and pious wife. Being quite moneyless, I hinted to the Governor of Arkeeko that I wanted to borrow some money. But the Naib avoided all money business, either because he is no friend to the English, as they have no Consul in Massowah, while other nations have; or because he wanted to take a large profit, by making me wait for a few days, when cu-cumstances would have compelled me to draw money at the risk of a great loss. May 4 — This morning I left Arkeeko for Massowah. I went by land ; but my feet were so bad that I pre- ferred taking off my shoes and stockings, and going bare- MASSOWAII. 529 footed like an Abyssinian. Ha\ing arrived at Mas- sowali, I took up my abode at Mr. Coffin's ; but I left at tbe invitation of M. Do Goutin, the French Consul, whose hospitality, kindness, and assistance deserves my most grateful acknowledgement before the Com- mittee. As soon as he heard of my arrival, he came to my house and kindly offered his services. Without having seen me before, without knomng whether he could trust me or not, and without asking to which nation I belonged, he offered me as much money as I wanted for my journey to Aden. THE END. rRlNTED BY L. SEELEY, THAMES DITTOX, SURREY. THE CHRISTIAN'S FAMILY LIBRARY. EDITED BY THE REV. E. BICKERSTETH. WILBERFORCE.— The Life of William Wilberforce. By his sons Robert Isaac Wilberforce, M.A. Archdeacon of the East Riding of Yorkshire, and Samuel Wilberforce, M.A. Archdeacon of Surrey. 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