.\ Publication of The College of UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA ETHELWYN DODSON and FRANCES REIS QUINN CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURAL Experiment Station CIRCULAR 419 Tftafaety a @oat of attractive style and good workmanship is an easy job for the experienced sewer, and not too difficult a job for the novice, if a simplified plan of work and easy methods of tailoring are used. THE SIMPLIFIED WORK PLAN described in this circular suggests a method in which each unit or part of the coat is completed be- fore the coat is put together. THE KEYS TO SUCCESS IN TAILORING are accurate cutting and marking, stitching, pressing. The hints given here will help you achieve good results in these three parts of the work. Buy a workable pattern and goods you can handle; then follow the suggestions and pictures in this booklet. The result: a coat any- one would be proud to wear. *7^e rfutfote Ethel wyn Dodson and Frances Reis Quinn are Extension Specialists in Clothing, Berkeley. THE PATTERN Choose One with Few Pieces More often than not the simple pattern in a coat is smarter and better styled than a complicated pattern would be — and, of course, it's much easier to sew. In buying a pattern look for one with units of not more than two pieces. Check the pattern before buying for the follow- ing pieces: Back: 1 piece cut on fold, or 2 pieces with center-back seam. Side Front: 1 piece with darts, or 2 pieces with straight seams. Sleeves : 1 piece with darts, or 2 shaped pieces, or 2 pieces with center seam. Collar: tailored and joining at front edge, or notched. Pockets: patch, or slash. Buy Pattern by Measurement For an Adult: take a firm measure- ment around the chest, close to the arm- hole. Add 2 inches to this measurement. This figure is the size pattern to buy. For a Child: take breast measure- ment. Take length measurement from socket bone at back of neck to bottom of hem. Buy the pattern, by age, correspond- ing to child's measurements. Pattern Material (see pattern amount) woolen coating rayon lining heavy muslin or unbleached sheeting interfacing (1 coat length) Thread heavy duty — 1 large spool (300 yards) mercerized No. 50 — 2 spools (50 yards) Buttons Shoulder pads THE MATERIAL Choose Soft Wools Medium-weight woolens, such as flan- nel, tweed, and fleece, are easy to tailor because they take the shape of the gar- ment readily. Woolen materials that have a soft, lightly napped surface do not show seam lines when pressed. For satisfactory results, a beginner in tailoring should avoid hard, firm worsteds, such as men's suiting and gabardine. For the amount, check the pattern en- velope, noting width of fabric. When buying cloth, have it torn or cut on the thread. >L HOW TO MEASURE. I [4 SEWING EQUIPMENT The well-equipped sewing center is a joy to the home dressmaker. To complete a successful tailoring job, such as a coat, these items of small sewing and pressing equipment are almost essential. Check your equipment with the follow- ing lists. All items of pressing equipment except the iron and brush can be made at home. Home Demonstration Circular 372 gives instructions. A satisfactory pressing cloth may be made from a piece of smooth-surfaced, light-weight wool attached, with a seam, to a piece of medium-weight muslin. Lay the wool part of the pressing cloth against the woolen fabric during pressing. Dampen the muslin part and lay it over the wool pressing cloth to make steam when using a regular iron. Sewing and Cutting Equipment Shears and small, pointed scissors Ruler, yardstick, T-square Tailors' chalk Dressmaker tracing paper (colored and white) Tracing wheel Dressmaker pins Needles and thimble Machine gauge or colored gummed tape Tape measure Pressing Equipment Pressing cloth Pressing ham Sleeve pressing pad Pressing roll Wooden clapper Clothes brush Iron or steam iron 5] tyetUay ^eadty fo Seta Shrink Material WOOL: Shrink woolen material before making a garment. Straighten material if neces- sary by pulling a thread and cutting on grain line. Material shrunk this way will not require pressing before cutting: 1. Dip a sheet in warm water; wring dry. 2. Lay the folded material on the wet sheet, with the center crease lengthwise. 3. Fold the edges of the sheet over the cloth. Beginning at end, fold lightly and continue folding the entire length. 4. Cover with paper or turkish towel for 2 hours. 5. Remove the material from the sheet and lay on a flat surface. 6. Smooth the material so that it will dry straight with the grain, ends and sides forming right angles. MUSLIN INTERFACING: 1. Wash muslin in warm, sudsy water until free of sizing. Rinse. 2. Drip dry, and press straight with the grain while slightly damp. Adjust Sewing Machine Slip back the slide plate or plates and blow out or brush off the lint that has gathered around the bobbin case and feed. Remove lint and ravelings under the head. Place a drop of oil in each cup, and carefully wipe off any surplus oil. Test the machine stitch by running a row of bias stitching in a double thick- ness of the cloth you will sew. Adjust until tension and length of stitch are right. Complete directions are given in Home Demonstration Circular 491, "Care of Sewing Machines." Arrange Cutting Table A table raised to 36-inch height makes an ideal cutting table. Bed blocks can be used to raise a dining-room table, and chairs can be used for tables with under- braces. Cover the table with a sheet or an oilcloth cover, wrong side up. Material adheres slightly to this surface and re- mains in place when being cut. Adjust Pattern 1. Check pattern measurements by a coat that fits: a. Shoulder seam length b. Across back, 4 inches below neck- line c. Across back, underarm to under- arm d. Across front at bustline e. Across front, underarm to under- arm f. Sleeve length and elbow dart. 2. Adjust pattern. 3. Check adjusted pattern: a. Trim pattern if it has a margin. b. To avoid tearing pattern, do not pin side seams close to armhole; do not pin sleeves to armhole. <^U c. Try on over suit or dress. CUTTING and MARKING WITH ACCURACY , , . yet you o^ta a yoact &tant Lay Pattern on Fabric 1. Fold right sides of fabric together ready for marking and stitching. 2. Place fabric on table, grain straight, ends and sides forming right angles. 3. Place pattern as shown in pattern di- rections, observing the up-and-down of fabric weave. 4. Check pattern marking for straight of grain. 5. Pin pattern to fabric, back from the edge. Use only enough pins to keep pat- tern in place on grain line, and use weights to hold edges. 6. Mark curved lines of pattern with tailors' chalk for accurate cutting. How to Cut Goods Cut accurately with long strokes. The cutting line becomes the guide line for stitching. If the coat has a center-back seam, place pins 2 inches back from edge of seam, from neck to hem, before lifting from cutting table. Marking the Coat Pieces 1. Mark all notches by %-inch snips. 2. Mark seam edge of darts, center front, center back, and sleeve tops with ^-inch snips. 3. Mark with pins and chalk: darts; center back; pockets; and point where ends of collar join the wool facing. LINING For ease, a pleat of 1 inch should be allowed at center back. If there is a lining pattern, check to see if this ease was al- lowed. t> [7] FRONT INTERFACINGS 1. Cut muslin interfacings straight with the grain for front and back sec- tions, shaped as shown on pages 11 and 14. 2. Mark interfacings with dressmaker tracing paper: darts; center front; cen- ter back; locations of buttons and button- holes; and the points where ends of collar join coat. Use T-square along front edge of coat to mark straight buttonholes. a. Place first sheet of tracing paper under area to be marked, with carbon side next to fabric. b. Place second sheet under pattern in same way. c. Protect table with cardboard. d. Make connecting lines through perforations, using ruler and tracing wheel. e. Use a cross line to indicate dart ends. HEM INTERFACINGS Cut bias muslin interfacing long enough to fit coat and sleeve hems and 14 inch wider than hem depths. COLLAR INTERFACINGS 1. Cut muslin interfacings for under- collar on true bias. 2. Mark undercollar interfacings along grain lines, as shown in picture on page 15. PRESSING AS YOU SEW METHOD FOR PRESSING WOOL 1. Use a wool pressing cloth to protect the right side of wool from direct contact with iron or steam iron. 2. Use plenty of steam, and press lightly with the grain line. Never press wool dry. Never iron back and forth. Never bear down with iron during steam- ing. 3. Press on wood or on a firm ironing board for well-creased edges and to avoid seam marks. 4. Beat with wooden clapper while gar- ment contains steam to flatten creased edges and remove press marks. 5. Shape garment while pressing. Press over a pressing ham for curved surfaces, such as shoulder, top of sleeves, and bust. Avoid pressing flat, thereby shrinking out fullness created by darts and other con- struction. cd a key ta &occce&& 6. Brush fabric on right side while steaming to avoid press marks. 7. Press seams open on a pressing roll to avoid seam marks. For fleece coating, press seams open on a brush to avoid flattening texture. UNDERPRESS EACH PIECE Press from the underside during stages of construction, following suggestions given above. Remove all basting and pins to avoid imprints. Press each piece of the garment before sewing together. After each unit is pressed, allow it time to dry. Handle carefully to prevent wrinkling and un- necessary pressing. (Turn to pages 21 and 22 for hints on pressing.) [8] ^ USE WOOL PRESSING CLOTH. ^ FLATTEN CREASED EDGES. X USE PRESSING ROLL FOR SEAMS. SEWING THE COAT IN UNITS , nta6e& it eatien fo JicutcLCe PLAN OF WORK Make the Coat in Units 1 -Front of coat: Darts Stay-stitching Baste-stitching Buttonholes and pockets 2-Back of coat: Center-back seam Darts Stay-stitching 3-Undercollar: Interfacing Back seam 4-Top collar and front facing: Shoulder seam Neckline seam 5-Sleeves: Darts Gathers Hem interfacing Underarm seam 6-Lining: Sewing units Putting lining together Put the Coat Together Shoulder and underarm seams Collar to coat Hem Facing to coat Sleeves to coat Finish the Coat Pockets and buttonholes Hems Edge stitching Shoulder pads and lining Handle fabric as little as possible. Be sure to keep the grain line in position at all times. Arrange pieces of the coat and interlining in the order in which you will stitch them. 1 -FRONT DARTS 1. Stitch darts in both coat and inter- facing. Back-stitch to end darts. 2. Trim darts in coat and interfacing to seam allowance width. 3. Press darts open as far as trimmed, and continue by pressing a box pleat to the point. 4. Press entire section of coat and in- terfacing. STAY-STITCHING 1. Place smooth side of interfacing on inside of coat. 2. Stay-stitch coat and interfacing to- gether. Stay-stitching is a row of stitching to keep the grain line in place around neck and armholes and across shoulders. Stay- stitch slightly less than seam allowance given on pattern. Use a seam gauge to be exact. This extra row of machine stitch- ing in the seams substitutes for the tape usually found in tailored garments. See illustration for correct direction of stitch- ing so that grain line is kept in place as you stitch. A general rule to follow is: Stitch from the widest to narrowest part on sections cut across the grain. 3. Stitch coat and interfacing together, down the front, slightly less than seam allowance. [10 MACHINE BASTE-STITCHING (6 to 8 stitches to the inch) 1. Baste-stitch center front with a 1- inch line at both top and bottom of coat. Baste-stitch location marks for button- holes, as illustrated. If material shows stitching marks, hand baste with silk or mercerized thread. a. Use contrasting thread on bobbin. b. Stitch from interfacing side. 2. Baste-stitch pocket line, as shown. Reinforce under pocket with muslin 2 inches wide and extending % inch be- yond each end of pocket. HOW TO JOIN FRONT OF COAT AND INTERFACING. 11 MAKING A NOTCHED COLLAR. NOTCHED COLLAR If the coat has a notched collar, stitch a V with a fine stitch to the point indi- cated in pattern where the undercollar joins coat. TAILORED BUTTONHOLES 1. Count total number of buttonholes you will have in coat, and measure their total length. 2. Cut a strip lengthwise of goods, twice as long as total length of button- holes, and 2 inches wide. 3. Fold the long strip % inch and stitch Vs-inch tuck from fold. Repeat on other edge, keeping edge of first tuck free. Re- sult: Two %-inch tucks % inch apart. 4. Cut tucked strip into sections twice the marked length of each buttonhole. 5. Pin fold of tuck on location lines of buttonhole, right sides together. 6. Stitch marked length of buttonhole on original tuck stitching, and secure each end by stitching back a few stitches. Repeat on other tuck. 7. On wrong side, cut between parallel lines of stitching to % inch from each end. Clip diagonally to each corner as il- lustrated. 8. Pull ends of strip to wrong side, forming square corners at ends of but- tonhole. 9. Stitch across triangle underneath at end of buttonhole. Finish underside of buttonholes later. SEW TUCKED STRIPS TO RIGHT SIDE OF GARMENT. [12 CUT FROM WRONG SIDE AND CLIP CORNERS. DRAW STRIPS THROUGH AND STITCH ACROSS ENDS. SLASH POCKET Make slash pocket opening like tai- lored buttonholes, with variation as to width of tucks. 1. Cut 2 lengthwise strips 3 inches wide and 1% inches longer than the pocket length. 2. Fold strip 1 inch and stitch tuck % inch from fold. 3. Repeat fold and tuck on opposite side, keeping first edge free. Result: two ^-inch tucks % inch apart. 4. Place fold of tuck on location line with tuck strip extending % inch beyond end of location line. 5. Stitch length of pocket on original tuck stitching, securing threads at each end. Repeat stitching on second tuck. 6. On the wrong side, cut between par- allel lines to % inch from each end. Clip diagonally to each corner as illustrated. 7. Pull ends of strip to wrong side, forming square corners. 8. Stitch across the triangles at ends of pockets. Finish pockets later. [13] 2-BACK CENTER-BACK SEAM 1. Stitch center-back seam in both coat and interfacing. 2. Press open or press in one direction, and stitch a welt seam in coat. DARTS 1. Stitch shoulder darts in both coat and interfacing. Back-stitch to end darts. 2. Trim darts in coat and interfacing to width of seam allowance. 3. Press darts open as on fronts of coat. 4. Press entire back section and inter- facing. STAY-STITCHING 1. Place interfacing on coat with smooth side of interfacing toward inside of coat. 2. Stay-stitch coat and interfacing to- gether as on fronts. 3. Trim corners at seam ends. 14] 3-UNDERCOLLAR INTERFACING 1. Place muslin interfacings on wrong sides of undercollar sections. 2. Stitch interfacings to undercollars, following marked lines on straight of grain as illustrated. BACK SEAM 1. Stitch seam. 2. Cut seam allowance of interlining close to center-back seam. 3. Open and stitch close on each side of center-back seam. 4. Trim corners at seam ends, as shown. 4-TOP COLLAR AND FACING NOTCHED COLLAR If the coat has a notched collar, stitch a V of fine machine stitching to point where collar joins facing. Snip to point of V when ready to join top collar and facing to coat. SHOULDER SEAMS 1. Join back facing and front facing at shoulder seams. 2. Press seams open. 3. Trim corners at seam ends. NECKLINE SEAM 1. Baste top collar to coat facing. 2. Snip seam edges at neckline about half the seam allowance, as illustrated. 3. Stitch and press neck seam open. ^~ JOINING THE INTERFACING TO THE BACK OF COAT. SMOOTH SIDE OF INTERFACING SHOULD BE TOWARD IN- SIDE OF COAT. I MUSLIN INTERFACING ON UNDERCOLLAR. BACK SEAM IS OPENED FLAT AND STITCH A NOTCHED COLLAR JOINED TO FACING AT SNIP SEAM EDGES AT NECKLINE 15 1 5-SLEEVES DARTS Stitch and press elbow darts. GATHERS Lengthen stitch and gather sleeve cap with 2 rows of continuous stitching: 1. Begin stitching on seam line. 2. Return with second row of stitching Ys inch above first row, as illustrated. HEM INTERFACING 1. Press crease for hem. 2. Place bias interfacing next to wrong side of lower edge of sleeve so that the interfacing extends from the crease to Vi inch below edge of sleeve. 3. Stitch in place. UNDERARM SEAM 1. Pin and stitch underarm seam. 2. Press open and trim corners at seam ends. 6-LINING SEWING UNITS 1. Baste or press center-back pleat. Catch-stitch 2% inches from neckline and hemline and at waistline. 2. Make shoulder pleats instead of darts. Catch-stitch 2 x /2 inches from cut edge. 3. Stay-stitch shoulder line slightly less than seam allowance on front and back units. 4. Machine-gather top of sleeve. PUTTING LINING TOGETHER 1. Stitch and press open the shoulder, underarm, and sleeve seams. 2. Stitch sleeves into lining and press seams open. 3. Stay-stitch around lining % inch from edge, with exception of hemline. PUTTING THE COAT TOGETHER SHOULDER SEAMS 1. Match seam ends and notches accu- rately, and pin. 2. Stitch on seam line in the correct direction from neck to armhole. 3. Press open and trim corners at seam ends. UNDERARM SEAMS 1. Stitch underarm seams from hem to armhole. 2. Press seams open. 3. Trim corners at seam ends. COLLAR TO COAT 1. Baste the undercollar to neckline of assembled coat. 2. Snip seam edges. Stitch and press seam open. Catch-stitch seam allowance to interfacing. HEM Interfacing may be omitted for thick coatings. 1. Pin hem allowance, using gauge. 2. Steam-press crease line at hem edge, as shown on page 9. 3. Use clapper to get hard crease. 4. Shrink with steam until hem lies flat. 5. Press and shape bias muslin inter- facing for hem to fit curve of coat. 6. Pin the strip of interfacing inside pressed hem. Overlap on front interfac- ing. 7. Stitch to raw edge of coat. 8. Trim off front interfacing at fold line of hem. [17] FACING TO COAT 1. Place front facing with attached col- lar to right side of assembled coat; match notches, lower edges, center backs, and collar joinings. 2. For collar roll, draw back top collar from edge of underCollar % inch and pin. 3. Stitch on facing side, with edge of coat following seam gauge. 4. Steam-press seam open (see p. 9). 5. Reduce thickness of coat edge by grading seam allowance: a. Cut seam allowance of interfacing close to seam. b. Cut one half of the seam allow- ance away from coat seam. 6. Press front edges of coat: a. Place outside of coat against board with front facing edge toward you. b. Press front edge seam lines slightly to inside of coat. c. Steam ; use clapper for edges. 7. Press edges of collar and lapels: a. Place outside of collar against board with collar edge toward you. b. Press seam edges slightly to un- derneath side of collar and lapel. c. Steam and use clapper for well- creased edges. 18 SLEEVES TO COAT 1. Gather sleeve to fit armhole loosely. 2. Shrink extra fullness from seam al- lowance, over pressing ham. 3. Pin sleeve into armhole : a. Match top of sleeve to shoulder team. b. Match notches at back and front. c. Match underarm seams of sleeve to the interfacing in lower part of the arm- and coat. hole. 4. Stitch from sleeve side: 9. In upper part of armhole, both seam a. Start stitching near underarm allowances may be turned toward sleeve seam. if shoulder pads are used. SHRINKING EXTRA FULLNESS FROM SEAM ALLOWANCE OF SLEEVE, OVER A PRESSING HAM. b. End stitching by overlapping 2 inches. 5. Clip seam edges around armhole with ^-inch snips. 6. Press armhole open. 7. Cut seam allowance of interfacing close to seam. 8. Catch-stitch seam allowance of coat NEAT FINISHING SLASH POCKETS 1. Face the back section of the pocket lining with strip of coating 2 inches wide. 2. Stitch this section of lining to the pocket facing toward back of coat. 3. Stitch front section of pocket lining to the pocket facing toward front of coat. 4. Fold the two sections of pocket lin- ing together and stitch around raw edges to form a pocket. BUTTONHOLES 1. Stab pins through facing at each end of buttonhole opening. The two pins should follow a grain line. 2. Slit the facing between the pins. 3. Turn raw edges under and hem. COAT AND SLEEVE HEMS Turn hem edge back and tack about % inch below edge of hem. Tack with loose, invisible stitches through the coat and long stitches through the hem. Start and finish with several stitches through hem rather than coat. For coat with loose lining, finish hem edge with bias, like coat lining, or with shaped seam tape, before tacking. TWO SIDES OF POCKET LINING READY TO BE STITCHED TOGETHER TO FORM POCKET. A A TACK SIDE SEAMS OF COAT AND LINING TOGETHER WITH BASTING STITCHES. - TACK FRONT FACING TO BODY OF COAT WITH LOOSE BUTTONHOLE >f STITCHES. EDGE STITCHING Outside stitching can give a profes- sional touch if well done. Set gauge or quilting foot % to % inch. Stitch front of coat and collar edge in a continuous row. For notched collar, see pattern instructions. SHOULDER PADS Try on coat and pin shoulder pads in place. Tack pads securely to the seams and interfacing. PRESSING BEFORE LINING IS ATTACHED Allow time for both coat and lining to dry completely after the necessary addi- tional pressing. Careful handling while making the coat can reduce this to a mini- mum. Press lining on underside. Test iron temperature on a scrap of lining fabric before pressing. 21 SLEEVE Place lower sleeve hem on sleeve board or sleeve pad. Steam-press, and use clap- per for creased edge. Place top of sleeve over pressing ham. Steam, shape, and brush. Do not press creases in sleeves. SHOULDER SEAMS Place on top of pressing ham. Steam, shape, and brush. NECKLINE Place lapel over top of ham with the facing side up. Press body of lapel, not the edge. Remove and pull gently along line of roll while still steaming. This helps set the roll of lapel. Never press a crease line along lapel or collar. BUSTLINE Place over pressing ham, steam, and brush. BODY OF COAT Place on regulation ironing board. Press side seams from lower edge toward sleeve in the direction they were stitched. Steam, use clapper at hem edge, and brush along seams and body of coat. Dry thoroughly on hanger. PUTTING IN LINING The lining may be sewed into the coat by sewing machine or by hand. Machine- sewing gives a sturdy finish; hand-sew- ing, a custom finish. 1. Turn coat wrong side out, and slip lining over the coat. 2. Fold edge of lining slightly beyond the stay-stitching, and pin to coat facings. 3. Top-baste lining to coat facings. Top-basting is an uneven stitch of % inch on top alternating with tiny stitches beneath. It is sewed close to the edge of the fold on the right side and ended with several inches of basting thread and a Careful handling while putting in lining will reduce further pressing to a minimum. For a final pressing, follow the procedure under "Pressing before Lining Is Attached." This is also the procedure to follow for press- ing your coat after you have worn it. knot. This allows for loosening the bast- ing stitches so that the seam can be stitched underneath. 4. Turn coat and lining inside out. Stitch lining to coat facings on the under- side by: Machine — Stitch in crease made by top basting, or Hand — Sew in crease with running stitches and occasional back stitches. Begin and end threads securely. Alternate method: The lining may be slip-stitched to the facing without turning the coat inside out. 5. Tack the front facing to the body of the coat with a row of loose buttonhole stitches about 5 inches apart. (See lower picture on page 21. 6. Turn coat right side out. Slip sleeve lining into coat sleeve. 7. Match armhole seam lines of lining with armhole seams of coat. Check by stabbing long pins through coat, pads, and lining. 8. Tack upper half of sleeve lining around armhole on the right side of lin- ing. Use invisible back stitches on the seam line. 9. Tack lower armhole seams together on the wrong side of lining with basting stitches. 10. Pin the sleeve lining and coat to- gether 4 inches below armhole. Turn sleeve wrong side out. Turn lining back on coat sleeve. Tack coat and lining seams together with basting stitches. End 4 inches above lower sleeve edge. 11. Turn and baste fold on the lower edge of the sleeve lining even with the finished sleeve length. Pin fold to stitch- ing at top of sleeve hem and blind-stitch. This keeps the lining from pulling taut. [22] 12. Tack side seams of coat and lining thread tacks 1 or 2 inches long to join together on the wrong side of lining, hem of lining to hem of coat at side using basting stitches. End 3 inches sea ms and center back. above coat hem. (See top picture on page u Fof ^ ^ aUached ^^ ^ 13. For coat with loose lining, finish and baste fold on lower ed § e even with lower edge of the lining 1 inch shorter the finished coat length. Pin fold to stitch- than the coat, with a 1-inch hem. Use ing at top of hem, and blind-stitch. This circular supersedes Extension Circular 145. Co-operative Extension work in Agriculture and Home Economies, College of Agriculture, University of California, and United States Department of Agriculture co-operating. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8, and June 30, 1914. J. Earl Coke, Director, California Agricultural Extension Service. 30m-2,'53(A2599)LL [23