UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES i n I ^ j L- , ^~> Ds. ^Francisco, J^Covember 21st, 1886). - rolling deep." November 25-26 About the same as the 24th. o^ November 27 Course still W. S. W., with fair wind; passengers com- \ mence to make the acquaintance of each other. November 28 This A. M. warm and raining, sea smooth, passengers com- mence to take interest in each other; it being Thanksgiving Day, the cabin was \ decorated with the flags of the United States, England and Japan, and an jxtra good dinner was served, plenty of roast Turkey, Pumpkin Pie and Plum Pudding, and all were happy. At 8:00 P. M. the Purser distributed the fol- lowing program. 464162 A WIXTKR IN GRAND MID OCEAN CONCERT! PROGRAMME 1 Overture Madam Lewarchesffoiz. 2 Song Binlis. 3 Overture, Instrumental. . . .Misses Morgan. 4 Quartet 5 Reading P. Lyons Esq. 6 Solo Mrs. Cooper. 7 Instrumental Madam L. and Miss M. 8 Song Mr. Allen. (My Country 'tisofthee.) Games, etc., general hilarity, which was kept up until late, all having a good time. Mr. Thurman did all that he could to make it pleasant for the passengers. November 29 Showery. November 30 Fair wind, N. E. December 1st. Weather fair last night, crossed the 180 meridian of lon- gitude, and thereby gained a day in time. Although today was kept as Sun- day, tomorrow will be Tuesday, December 3rd ; this month has no second day for us. December 3d Wind from S. W., fair in morning, rain in afternoon and continued off and on throughout the night. December 4th Wind from the N. weather fair, and cooler temperature, but very pleasant. Mrs. G. a little sick this A. M. December 5th Wind south and raining; ship running very fast; wind increasing to gale ; ship rolling badly ; none of the passengers on deck. Decembe.r (5th Wind east, htill raining, but sea smoother. December 7th Weather fair, all on deck, wind light and sea smooth, ship making good time. December 8th Weather fair, but a little cloudy; sighted land about 8:00 A. M ; wind from went; coast high and broken, not unlike the coast of Cali- fornia. Arrived at anchorage in the Bay of Yeddo, in front of Yokohama, about 4:00 P. M., and landed at the English Hatoba, from steam launch of the Grand Hotel, gave keys of trunks to porter, who passed them through the Cus- tom House and had all in our rooms by 7 :00 P. M. The Sampans [Native Boats] formed around the steamer in solid body, five or six deep and then commenced soliciting patronage in such eager tones and persistency that discounted the throng of Cab and Hotel runners that crowd around the ferry landing in San Francisco, in their eager solicitations to obtain passengers, for which service they charge the sum of Ten Sen each passenger. The scene was one you do not forget in a day, all was new and strange, the boats, and dress of the men (or want of dres), the language, manners, all so strange, but in their eager persuit of the Ten Sen pieces of sil- ver, discounted any other nation of people that I have ever seen. We landed on a fine stone pier, and proceeded to take ^our first ride in a Jinriksha, which we finished at the steps of the Grand Hotel. And after seeing our rooms'and that our trunks and bundles were all there, sat down to a good JAPAN AND CHINA. dinner. The weather was cool' but pleasant; slept well; wind fresh and raw from the N. E. December 9th Awoke this morning and found clear, cold winter weather, breakfasted at 9:03 and went out with Mr. P. Lyon, of Tower & Lyon, 82 Chambers Street, New York., we went to the Custom House to see my old friend H. Z. Wheeler, who is. and has been for some years in the Japanese ser- vice, he went with us to our Consulate, and introduced us to C. R. Greathouse, Consul General for Japan, whom we found very nice and accomodating. We made application for passports, for which we paid the fee of twenty sen each, and will receive the passports in four days. Went to the chartered bank of India, Australia and China, and drew 100 on my letter of credit. Captain Kemperson took Tiffin with us, after which we went out in Jinrikshas for a ride. The Jinrikshas are toy gigs drawn by man ; you do not enjoy the ride at tirst, the idea of being drawn by man is somewhat repugnant, but this feeling soon wears off, and then you commence to like it, and when you see how happy your men-horses are when you call them, then you begin to enjoy this novel mode of traveling. We were taken through the native part of the city, saw its shops, etc., find the people very poor, but apparently very happy and indus- trious, all were busy, none were too old or too young to work. The houses in the native quarter are mostly of wood, and I think will burn like tinder, the streets very narrow, the shops open directly on the street, and the customer stands in the street, or sits down on the floor of the shop ; the floor is raised about 18 inches above the street, the merchant sit} on his heels on a mat, and displays his goods, and dickering commences; you must not pay a Jap the price first asked. The people seem very happily disposed and polite towards each other ; on the street the men go on a trot, and you are astonished to see nearly all of them bare-headed ; they say that it is effeminate to protect the head with any covering. On entering a house all remove their shoes, which are made of wood, or soles of straw, sock is divided, a compartment for the big toe, and the shoe is held on the foot by straps lhat pass between the toes, and over the foot, and fasten to the side of thlTshoe ; it is not a shoe, except in the sense that we call the iron which protects the horses foot ; we call it a shoe. We visited some of the curio stores, and at one of them we were asked $6,000 for a screen and $5,500 for a cabinet, which made me conclude the foreign merchants doing business in Yokohama, had not gone there solely for their health. December 10th Weather clear and cold, wind from the north, but not so piercing as it was yesterday ; went to No. 2 Bluff, to see the young ladies that came over with us, who are missionaries, and start for southern Japan and northern China, today at noon ; spent the remainder of the morning with Mr. Lyon, hunting up a room, in which he can display samples of the different kinds of goods, for which h' hopes to find a market in Japan, delivered intro- ductory letter to Messrs. Smith, Baker & Co., Tea Merchants, whom I found to be very nice and obliging gentlemen, whooffered all sortsof kindness tome; went to a Chinese Tailor, G. Kwong-Ghee, No. 165 Honmura road, Yokohama, and ordered a dress coat and vest, made of a piece of fine black, West of England cloth cost, 20 yen, also a sack suit of fine cassimere, English also, to cost 20 yen ; returned to hotel, and on the piaza found an old man who was exhibiting his skill in feats of legerdemain ; he was very expert, in fact could give the lam- A WINTKR IN ous Herman, some points that would interest him ; after an hours performance p.i~i>'il around his plate, collected forty sen, with which lu- w:i> very well satisfied; delivered letter of Mr. Winmore, to Mr. Howard of the Pacific Mail. December llth Weather fine, after breakfast went through the Native quarter, found all the shops small and filled with goods, many of which to me were new and strange, visited the fish market, it was well stocked with - 'sh, none of them had I ever seen, except the Smelt, Salmon and Mackerel ; Mrs. Smith, ot S B. & Co., culled, she is very affable and very kindly, invited us to call, aleo our Consulate General, C. R. Greathouee Esq., called, and invited us to call on his mother, which we will do as soon as we can. After tiffin we took jinrikshas, and with Mr. and Mrs. Lyon, went up on the bluff to see a house that Coulter thinks of renting; the garden is very pretty, planted with the shrubs and flowers that are effected here; commenced rainingabout 7:00 I*. M. and continued all night December 12th. Rained all day. December 13th This morning clear and pleaeant, have been along the wharves, seen the sampans discharging freight; all this work is done very diff- erently in America; it seems to me, that the sole object here, is to employ all the men they can; there are but few drays drawn by horses, and those are mo-tly one horse, and instead of driving as with us, the man walks ahead and leads the horse ; the horses here are all small, but stout, heavy bodied, short legged and very hard animals. The butcher carts are drawn by one bull each, and he is led by a man. The streets are full of children at play, and their little games appear to be the same as played by the children at home; Mr. and Mrs. Howard called, they are verv nice pleasant people; received our passports and will in a day or two, start to do Japan. From the window of our room the bay is a beautiful sight; dotted all over with sails, and sampans, now and then a large junk, which with its large single oblong sail looks very odd to one not accustomed to see such water craft as these. December 14th Again visited the market, it was filled with fish.shell-fish, game and vegetables ; the pheasants displayed are the handsomest birds that I h ave ever seen, fairly blazing in lustrous colors of green, blue and gold, others brown, yellow and black ; pome of the brown cocks had tail feathers a yard in length ; the pigeons were mottled on the back and were very beautiful ; some of the ducks were very gaudily marked ; the hare looked like the jack rabbit of California. Had a long walk through the native part of the city, looked through the shops, and as the day was clear, had a fine view of Fujiyama, the one per- petual enow capped mountain of Japan, the one which you see in all their paint- ings. December 17th. This morning at 10 o'clock, together with Mrs. and Mr. Lyon, and Mr. Conradi, we started to Nikko, went by rail to Shinagaua, on road to Tokio, and to the outskirts of that city. The country is highly culti- tivated ; we changed roads twice, before reaching Utsunorniya, the station where we left the railroad. The country is very beautiful, undulated and rolling hills, with brooks and rivers every five-hundred yards, forests of pine, oak and chestnut; where it is not cu'tivated, it looks very much like the hill country of northern Georgia. All along the way we saw people harvesting their JAPAN AND CHINA. crop of daiko, a white radish ; it was grown in great quantities, is one of the prime necessities of Japanese life; I have seen some of them three feet long, and four or five inches thick; arrived at Utsunomiya at 3 :0n P. M., stopped at a native tea house for lodgings ; it is kept by Tedukaga;the house was very clean and kept in Japanese style ; the second story was one long room, about twelve feet wide and forty feet long, divided by sliding panels of frames of wood covered with paper: the front was also of sliding frames of wood covered with paper, and could be shoved together or taken out, making one room ; the back wall was of unpainted, but dressed pine boards; running along this wall was a recess about 18 inches deep, and four or five feet high, raised above the floor about six inches, and in it was set the house god and all the sacred images, together with some potted plants; on the back wall were three pomes; run- ning around three sides was a veranda about three feet wide, which was pro- tected by curtains that rolled up, and outside of these were storm protectors of oiled paper, which were put up in bad weather ; the only European thing in the furnishing was the carpet, it was put down for such guests as ourselves. The floors of Japanese houses are covered with mats three or four inches thick, and before entering .the house you must remove your shoes. Our beds were thin cotton comforters, which you spread on the floor and cover yourself with one of them ; Mrs. G. had declared that she would not sleep on the floor (the Japanese have no bedsteads), but as it was the floor or sit up, she concluded tha!" it would be better to try the floor ; we slept well until called about sun- up to prepare for our long jinriksha riiie to Nikko. We had our meals at another tea-house kept by Myarcuma; he gave us very good food, and fairly well cooked. This is a city of about 50,000 or 60,000 inhabitants, but nothing very interesting; it is a garrisoned town, and consequently very gay, and is one of the centers of learning, has colleges for Boys and Girls; these buildings are large and the grounds ample. We spent the afternoon in strolling through the streets, followed by crowd of 200 or 300 children and half grown boys and g'rls, who could not be satisfied until they had thoroughly examined our cloth- ing and looks; it put me in mind of the circus parades in Los Angeles, only the conditions reversed, we the animals, and they the spectators. We were interested in looking aj, a girl weaving; her loom was very primitive and simple, but the silk she had woven was verv nice goods; the shops and dwell- ings, all open directly on the streets ; passing along one sees all that is going on in the houses; .the people are not bashful, all that is done in private, they do not hesitate to do in public. December 18th Started for Nikko at 9:00 A. M., in jinrikshas, each one was drawn by two men, the distance is twenty-five miles, and is all the way up hill ; we made the trip in fi' r e hours, which included two stops, of twenty minutes each ; the men started out on a trot, and did not break that gait, except to pass over some bad places in the road ; this service they performed for seventy sen each, found themselves, and were discharged on arrival at Nikko. The road is about twenty-five feet wide, and is planted on each side with unbroken rows (except through villages) of conifer and cryptogamia. Many of these trees were from three to five hundred years old each, and some said to be much older. Several places I noted that the roots and trunks had grown together, making one solid body for at least thirty feet long, and ten or twelve A WINTKR IN high, before the individual trunks started to fling up their heads a hundred feet or more; many of them were six to eight feet in diameter where they left the mother trunk. Here we commenced to see forests of bamboo; some of the plants attained the height of fifty to sixty feet. This road has been in use for many centuries. The most of the travel lias been done by people on foot, and so long has this road been in use that it is worn down and sunk below the level of the surrounding country from six to eight feet. We passed through several large towns and many small villages, and arrived at Nikko at 2 p. m., and after tiffen went out with our guide, Katsu Sam, to see some of the wonders of this famed place It is now, and has be^n for thousands of years, one of the sacred places of Japan, and to it every year flock many thousand pilgrims, for here are buried two of the Shoguns and many of the holy men that since death have been exalted to be gods. There are here about two hundred temples and shrines. Nikko is situated in a narrow gorge in the mountains, upon the banks of the Diayagawa, and on the southern slope of the hills on its northern bank, standing at a point below the red lacquered sacred bridge und looking west up the river, is a scene hard to surpass for beauty and grandeur. We crossed the river and went up it for about a mile; saw the row of one hundred life-size stone images, set about five feet apart. Katsu informed us that they were more than a thousand years old, were of saints and gods; that no one could count one hundred going up and verify the same coming down, but as the day was nearly spent we did not try, though my opinion is that anyone but a Jap could make the count come out the same up and down the river. On the opposite bank of the river was a shrine, and in it an image of a priest, since death deified. He was accustomed to come to this spot to paint and write, and after many days of labor became tired and disgusted at not being able to portray or describe the grand and beautiful scene before him, threw away his pen ; it struck the face of a perpendicular cliff oa the opposite side of the river, and it engraved a Sanscrit letter, showing that after death he should become a god, anl to this day he is worshipped at this shrine. From this we returned to the bridge, crossed the river again, and went to one of the oldest Shinto temples. Our guide informed us that it was built eleven hundred and fifty years ago. It is of wood, thatched straw roof, and had the appearance of being old. We returned to the Nikko hotel, where we had a good dinner trout fresh from the river. The room was fair, and I slept well. Mrs. G. complained of not sleep- ing said that the running water made so much noise that she could not sleep. Nikko (sun's brightness) is considered, and I think deservedly, one of the most beautiful and lovely spots in Japan. There is a native saying : "Until you have seen Nikko don't say kekko" (splendid or grand), and I think that it is well said. One is impressed and filled with awe, and compelled to render homage to its grandly beautiful scenery, its temples, its silent, sombre walks, ways and surroundings. The approach to the temples is between high, massive stone walls, where, following up a ravine, the sides have been cut down and walled, making a level way of about fifty feet wide, paved with blocks of stone. The side walls are fifteen or twenty feet high, and above them thick groves of trees. To reach the San Butsudo you turn to the right and ascend a flight of stone steps, about twenty feet high ; but as the grade is easy you don't tire much. This temple stands in an inclosure of about an acre, and is about 80 feet long, 40 wide and 60 high, is lacquered red on the outside, and is adorned JAPAN AND CHINA. in many places with plates of brass, overlaid with gold ; there is also in the yard a black column of copper about 42 feet high, called the So-rin-to, erected about 1643 A. D. Its top is adorned with gold plates and several sunall bells. We ascended the steps and removed the shoes from off our feet, for we were about to enter a holy place. Over the entrance was a double gong, fitted with an iron hammer, which was struck by a priest pulling a cord, and was done when one of the faithful presented himself, paid his brass coin and commenced to offer up his petition, and is done to call the attention of the gods to this petitioner, that they may hear his prayer. From this temple we went to the No Sho Gu, which is celebrated for containing the shrine erected to lyeyasu, the first Shogun of the Tokugawa family. On the left side of the yard stands a pagoda of five stories ; it is wood and 104 feet in height, painted and lacquered red, and is very pretty ; was built A. D. 1650 ; under the wide projecting eaves the roof measures 18 feet; on each side of the first story are carvings painted in life-like colors, of the Japanese signs of the zodiac. On the floor of the pagoda sits a priest, who sells maps of the temples, prayers and charms. In front of and a hundred feet away from the Nimo Gate stands a large granite Torii, presented by the Prince of Chikuzen ; its heighth is 21% feet, and diam- eter of the columns 3)4 feet; to the left is a sacred tree, "Koya Maki," near which is a stable for keeping a horse for the sole use of the gods when they visit Nikko; around on three sides of the stable, over the doors, are carvings in wood of monkeys playing on a vine that runs around the stable; advantage is taken of the grain of the wood to make the hair on the animals, and so well is this work done that you. at first sight, think they are alive; some of them hold their hands over their mouths, others over their ears, while some of them have their eyes covered with their hands ; and it is said that this is done that they may not see any wrong, hear no evil, nor speak a bad word of each other. This is reputed to be the handiwork of the celebrated left-handed, hunchback dwarf, Hidari Jingoro. Many strange things are told of him, one of them is " that before he had become celebrated for his skill in carving, that on one oc- casion he visited Tokio, where he fell in love with a Nobleman's daughter, but she would have nothing to do with him, he returned to Nikko, to lament and grieve on the hard and desolute life allotted to him " Her lovely image was stamped upon his heart so clearly, that he carved her likeness in wood, and so perfect was it done that the Gods in compassion, endowed it with life, and gave it to him for a wife, and in gratitude for this token of the kindnebs of the Gods, it is said that he passed the remainder of his life in carving the fowls and flowers tha are so profusely used in the decorations of these tem- ples erected by the Shoguns, whose crest the three leaves of the marsh-mallows you see impressed upon everything. A little further along, and on the left is a splendidly ornamented pavilion, which covers the "On Chodzuya" or Holy place of purification ; the cistern beneath it is the " Miltarashi Suiban," or Holy hand-cleaning cistern ; it is cut out of a solid block of granite, 8 feet long, 4 feet deep and 2% feet wide. The water enters at the bottom and wells up and runs over the sides and ends in a sheet not thicker than this paper, so nicely is it adjusted. These Temples are all enclosed with walls covered with tiles, the sides of the walls are divided into panels, and these panels are covered with carvings of Storks, Peacocks, Pheasants, Geese, Swans and Ducks, Flowers and Vines, all in high relief and painted in colors as they had when in 10 A WINTKK IN life. Above and below the panels is a base and freize in which are Doves, Snipe and the small birds of Japan, also painted as brilliant in colors as the birds were when living; along the wall on the left were many stone, and some bronze lanterns, one of which is called the Devil's Lantern, because it is said. that in olden times a guard was set every night, to keep the the devil from stealing it, as it was his custom to come every night ; you are shown many scars and cuts made in the lantern by the swords of the guards, when striking at his satanic majesty; but now no guard is posted, for the devil comes no more after the lantern. You ascend a few stone steps to the gat >, which is guarded, in niches on each side, by well-carved images of soldiers, dressed in the cloth- ing of old Japan, with bows and arrows fitted to the string, in their hands, and quivers full of arrows slung on their backs. This gate is very beautifully and elaborately adorned with carvings and gilding, and is exceedingly bounti- ful In the yard to your left is a bronze lantern, presented by the King of Kiuku, which it is said, was made in Holland ; also a bell presented by the King of Corea, called the the moth eaten bell, because of its having a small hole in the top of it. The bell tower in this yard is of bronze, fifty or sixty feet high, and is adorned with plates of gold, and is guarded by two stone Lions. Ascend a flight of steps, on a platform of which stand* the marvelous gate Yomei Mon ; and we saw and admired a specimen of architecture, carving and painting, as I have never seen before, nor do I expect to see again. On either side of the gate-way, and on either aspect," are niches or chambers ; the walls are covered with a sort of arabesque design ; the south chambers are occupied each by a wooden image, richly colored and gilt, of a warrior in full armor, bow in hand and arrow-filled quiver on back ; those looking north by heavily gilded figures of Lions, represented as couchant; one with a green, the other with a blue mane. The columns are of Keaki wood (a sort of elm), colored white and covered with arabesque scroll-work; the ceilings of the passage through the gate, is adorned with paintings. The columns are surmounted by gargoyle like heads, of the mithological monster, Kirin ; at about half-heighth projects a balcony, carried around the structure, supported on lions heads, and provided with an elaborate balustrade, variously ornamented with carved work; the most pleasing compositions being of groups of children at play; below this is an antricate system of projecting beam and rafter-ends, finished off with chased brass work, against which stand out on either aspect, seven groups of chines sages, supported on a kind of freize, variously sculptured, and relieved at intervals by LIOBS' heads. Externally on either side is presented a most pleasing composition, sculp- tured in flat relief of peony flowers, white and green on a chocolate ground. Beneath the roof are grouped representations of musical inptruments, writing implements, chess boards and the like. From^the projecting eaves depend a number of bell-like ornaments in brass. The wood work is for the most part colored white and not a square inch of it is unornamented. The Yomi gate is 24 feet broad by 12 feet deep, the height up to the crest of the rouf being about 34 feet. We ascended a few steps and again removed our shoes and entered the temple. It was a large room, floor mat covered, and contained a mirror and strips of gilt paper. This is a Shinto temple, in which there is never any other JAPAN AND CHINA. 11 furniture. On the walls are carvings of the peacock, eagle and stork, back- ground gold, the birds painted in colors, like in life. The ceiling was divided by bars into one hundred panels, and each panel painted; in the center was the crest of the Tokugawa family, surrounded with phoenixes in different atti- tudes. On each end of this is an ante-chamber. That on the right, which was intended for the head of the Tokugawa family, contains pictures of Kirin on a gold ground, and four carved oaken panels, eight feet high by six feet wide, and are kept coveted with wire net, which is removed that you may see their beauty. The subjects are the Chinese phcenix, variously treated, and at fir.-t sight appear to be in low relief, but on close examination you see that the figures are formed of various woods glued on to the surface of the panel, and have also been secured by some brass-headed nails that add nothing to the beauty of the work. The opposite ante-chamber has the same number of panels, the subject of which are eagles, very spiritedly executed; and carved and painted ceilings, the subjects on which are chrysanthemums around an apcara in the center. This chamber was for the use of the Shogun's wife when at Nikko. The folding doors of the oratory are beautifully decorated with arabesques of botan flowers in gilt relief; over the door and windows of the front are nine compartments filled with birds carved in relief, four on each side of the build- ing; and there are four more at the back, on each side of the corridor that leads to this chapel. We stepped down a flight of three steps into a Buddhist chapel, which contained three huge images of Butsu, two of which were gilt and one black as ebony. !So, under the same roof, were two different and distinct religions. This temple is very large, high tiled roof, and both roof and outside of build- ing adorned with plates of bronze, plated with gold ; the temple is painted and lacquered, and although built of wood and hundreds of years old, still show no signs of decay. From here we went to the temple of the "Horsehead Gods," which is RO called from one of the images having a horse's head carved on top of its own head. This temple contains the gigantic statues of Buddha, sitting; they are placed side by side, and I think are about twenty-five f et in height. One of the figurea has many arms and hands, and in each one hold* some gift for the worthy supplicant, and one has a horse's head on top of his own. These images are all overlaid With gold, and present a dazzling, brilliant appearance, well calculated to impress the faithful pilgrim with awe and fear. To the right, and about fifty feet away, is a small temple, in which is a woman dre^ed in fancy robes, who dances, or rather postures, and prayp ; and for a half a cent I had her to intercede with Buddha in my behalf. To the left, and at riant angles, is a long, low building, that is used as a storehouse for the carriages and implements used in honor of lyeyasu, pictures and Buddhint scriptures, and the furniture, arms and other articles used by that hero during life. To the right, at about twenty feet, you come to the gate of Ni- mnri no Neko, the sleeping cat. This is one of the masterpieces of the left-handed Hidari Jingoro, and is placed over the door through which you pass and com- mence to ascend the two hundreu steps that lead up to the tomb of lyeyasu. 12 A WINTER IN These Temples and out-buildings are profusely ornamented within and without, with carvings and paintings and adorned with plates of brass, overlaid with gold, and all surrounded with walls of finely cut and sculptured stone and paved with cut blocks of the same material. Situated upon the mountain-side in groves of stately trees of pine and red cedar of 1 irge size that stand thickly upon the hill-sides and throw up their heads a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet, giving a perpetual shade and silent retreat for the priests in which they can retire and lament the short-corn- inings of their flocks (in cash). Water is running in all directions and in great abundance. Here as elswhere in Japan, everything is very clean . We then commenced to climb the 200 steps; they are of nicely cut stone, railed and balustred with the same ; the steps have a rise of six inches and a width of fifteen inches, the way is about twenty-five feet wide, and many of them are fifteen to twenty feet long. They are so accurately squared and cut, and so well laid ; no cement or mortar was used, and now more than three hundred years has elapsed since the work was done, and they still fit so closely together that you cannot insert the blade of a knife at the joints. These stairs run in a zigzag course up the steep side of the mountain ; the longest reach to a landing is about thirty feet. Mrs G. was a little short of wind by the time we reached the top of the last flight. They led up to the tomb of the Shogun lyeyasu. It is of magnificent bronze, and is inclosed by a stone wall, capped with rail and balusters of finely cut and sculptured stone. In front of the tomb is a low stone table, ornamented with a bronze stork, holding a gilt candle in its mouth, a bronze incense burner, and a vase with artificial lotUo flowers and leaves in brass. Two heavenly dogs stand on guard near the gate. From this spot one has a view for quiet beauty and grandeur not often surpassed, and here one should be able to sleep in peace. We descended the steps and again passed through the gate guarded by the sleeping cat and out of the yard. We turned to the right and through a grove of stately pine and cedar, along a broad, deep, sunken way that was walled on each side with massive rocks. We passed under and through another Torii, which was erected to the third Tokucrawa Shogun lyemitsu, and entered the approach to the smaller temple. We passed a pretty waterfall, which had long iciclea pendant from the rocks. On each side of the gate, in the accus- tomed niches, were gods that on the right of thunder, on the left of wind; that of thunder had darts in his hand, that of wind a full bag of it around his body, over one shoulder and under one arm. We ascended a flight of steps and again put the shoes from off our feet and entered the temple and mauso- leum erected to the illustrious lyemitsu, in which was the stork standing on the tortoise in bronze, and the lotus flower and rice plant in brass; and many other things that I cannot remember. This temple was adorned with paint- ings and carvings of birds and flowers, gilt and painted in colors as in life. The ceiling was divided into panels, and in each panel on a gold grrund was painted a dragon, all treated in a different manner. I don't think that there was a square inch of wall or ceiling unadorned. The outside was finished in red lacquered and bronze and gilt carvings of birds and flowers. To the left is a flight of steps that lead up to the tomb; but as it is similar to the one of lyeyasu, and Mrs Q. complained of being tired, we did not visit it. JAPAN AND CHINA. 13 On the way to the hotel we passed hy a Shinto temple, before which stood an old man, devoutly praying. At the gate to the Shogun temple one of the gods was painted bright green, the other sky blue; one white, with elephant's head and trunk on each le^, the trunk reaching down below the knee ; the other was a Chinaman. THE LEGEND OF NIKKO Is that in former times the country was in spring and autumn, semi* annually, devastated by wind-storms, issuing out of a cave in the mountains, to the northwest of the town, which was at that time called Fula-ara Ya-ama. In 820 the priest Kobo Daishi made a road to the cave, caught the wind, rolled it up into a ball and threw it back into the cave, and changed the name of the town to Nikko, since which time the storms have not visited nor devastated the town. This is but a poor description of all the things that I saw, and is of only a small part of what is here. The description of the many dragons, tigers, lions, unicorns, phoenixes, elephants and other fabulous beasts, or of the many other gods that are chiseled for the contemplation of the devout gods in blue, in green and vermillion ; gods with fat bellies and big ears; gods with three to:s and three fingers only ; and one, the god of thunder, with only two toes and two fingers, must be seen to be appreciated. Hence I leave them all for you to admire when you go to Nikko. After tiffin Mrs. Lyon Conradi and myself procured horses and, with our guide on foot and the owner of each horse running along at its head, we went to a very pretty waterfall, to the northeast and about three miles away. It is called Kiriftiri. Thursday, December 19th Left Nikko at 8:15 a. m., in jinrikshas, and arrived at Utsenamyia at 12 noon, the men making only one stop of ten min- utes ; they went in a fast trot all the way, nor did they seem to be much fatigued when they got to the railroad, after a jaunt of twenty-five miles in three hours and thirty-five minutes. At 12 :19 we took the train and got back to Yokohama at 5 p. m. The Japanese seem to me to be very poor, but a happy and contented peo. pie. I saw no suffering, no want of food. They all work. Not even a leaf is lost; along the road we saw children, girls and old men and women, with huge baskets of split bamboo strapped on their backs, and with rakes of bamboo gathering up the fallen leaves, which they carried home and threw on the compost pile. They also pick up the small twigs, with which they make a fire in their braizers there are no fireplaces in Japan. The feet of the horses are protected with shoes made of plaited rice straw. Their own are of wood, and when many of them walk over a plank or cemented floor (at railroad stations floors are all of concrete) the noise is almost deafening. In this land you see many of the Bible savings and commands literally complied with. Here you see the "shoulder put to the wheel," and "by the sweat of the brow the daily bread" (rice) is gained. No drones are in the hive here. You see the women grinding with the same sort of a mill and in the same way as described in Holy Writ. In fact, one is continuously being reminded by these people of scenes that are portrayed in the Bible as having been done in Palestine. 14 A WINTER IN Monday, December 23J Engaged Katsu for guide, and we will commence with Tokio to-morrow morning at 9 a. in , for his services to receive one yen per day, and I pay his expenses and passage back to Yokohama from any place that I discharge him. This afternoon, by invitation of Mr. 0. Keil, visited the quarterly commu- nication of the District Grand Lodge of Masons of Japan, and saw the officers installed at Masonic Hall. Brother O. Keil has very kindly sent me invitations to the meetings of the craft. After the work was done there was a banquet, at which I was awarded the peat of honor on the right of the Grand Master, for all of which I am indebted to Brother O. Keil. Tuesday, December 24th This morning at 9 o'clock started for Tokio and from the Shimbashi to call on our Minister at the Court of the Mikado, the Hon. J. F. Swift; and from there we went to see Mr. J. H. VVigmore, found him at home, and delivered a small package of photographs from his mother. They are boarding with an American family, No. 81 Nagato Cho; the house is purely Japanese, very prettily situated on top of a hill and overlooking a canal. It sits back from the cho a hundred and fifty yards, and each side of the ap- proach is planted with bamboo and camelias, the latter in full bloom, and are very pretty; in front of the house stood a po-t with a Japanese bell, which we struck with a pmall mallet; this called a boy, who took our cards. They soon brought Mrs. W., and in a few moments Mr. W. followed. He had his neck tied up ;ind held his head down in a very humble manner cause: boil on back of his neck. We had a very pleasant .visit with them, and went to Tokio Hotel, where we had tiffin, and then back to the legation to call on Mrs. Swift and Miss Waters they were both out in the morning when we called. Miss W. came out with us on the Oceanic. Mrs. Swift is a very beautiful and charming lady. After a short call we proceeded to see a little of thin, the largest city of Japan It is said to contain a million and a half of population. The main street is wide and long, lined on each side with shops and stores but, as in Yokohama, they are small and open out directly on the street. On this street the houses are two t-tories high and very sombre in appearance, mostly hard finish, in black, on the outside, and somewhat resemble black marble. We then went to see the three principal temples at Shiba, but as the day was cloudy, in the afternoon it rendered the inside of them so dark you could not see. The}' nre situated on level land, surrounded with a thick grove of pine trees that are enclosed by a high wall of cut stone. The area covered by these temples and offices must l>e three hundred acres. You pass through the outer wall and along a paved way of at least a hundred yards to the gate in the inner wall. In niches on each side of the gate, as guards, were life-size figures of men gods; the one on the left is painted white, and that upon the right sky blue. This gate is very elaborately ornamented and painted, and with plates of brass, gilt and chased, and with carvings of flowers and birds, in high relief, and all painted as the objects represented had been when in life. On the inside, as you pass through the gate on the right and left were carvings of lions, life-size, but distorted, and with a horn projecting, as the unicorn is represented ; the eyes are of glass, and the animals are painted in natural colors. On the ceiling is the portrait of a woman playing on a flute. JAPAN AND CHINA. 15 In the yard to the right and left are rows of bronze lanterns, and each standing on a column of bronze about five feet high ; the covered way leading to the temple is elaborately Jecorated with carvings, paintings and gildings; the front of the temple is profusely embellished and adorned w'.th carvings in wood of peacocks pheasant, swan, geese, ducks, storks and many other birds and flowers, all painted to represent the several objects as in life. The ends of the projecting beams and rafters are carved to represent the head of some animal, and are painted and gilded, in fact there is not a square inch of the exterior of this imposing building that is not adorned with lacquer, carving or gilding, but its glory is fading, the paint is peeling oft', and the gilding commencing to tarnish ; it it is not cared for as those at Nikko. In the corner of the court to the right stands a pagoda; from this temple we went to another very large one ; the roof is on and sided up, but not floored nor any part of the interior finished. Our guide informed us that it has stood in the same condition as now for many years, and is called the unfinished temple. From this we went to another of the Shogun temples. The approach to it is through a nice little garden and paved way of about fifty yards to the gate. On the right, about twenty feet from the way, is a bronze statue of Buddha ; it sits on a pedestal of bronze, and altogether about fifteen feet high ; the figure is sitting, and its lap is full of stones about the size of eggs, that the worshippers, on their way up to the -temple, pitch at the figure, and if they stop in its lap it is a sure sign of good luck, and that the one pitching the stones is under the special care of the gods. The gate to this temple is massive and high, painted and lacquered red, but not otherwise adorned, except by the usual guards in niches on each side. These were hideously distorted, both in form and fe iture, and painted bright red. From the last temple we went to the west, through a market and beautiful park, with miniature lake, with a bridge and tea house; the lake full of lotus, a grove of pine and cedar. From this park we went to and along the Castle (IShiro) moat and wall, that surrounds the palace of the Mikado; his palace is surrounded by an outer wall, a moat and an inner wall; the walls are of huge rock, cut and laid cyclopean, the joints are so nicely made you cannot insert the blade of a knife where they join The moat is about one hundred feet w ide, and contains four or five feet of water ; the inner wall is about twenty feet high above the water. The moat is spanned by bridges having draws. You are astonished at the magnitude of this work, and impressed with the idea that the Shoguns who did it were of unlimited wealth and power, for it must have taken 100,000 men at least twenty years to do this work ; for the walls inclose thou- sands of acres and a citadel, which is now dismantled and its watch towers torn down. The old castle was burned down. The one now occupied by the Mikado, lam told, cost six million yen. The city is traversed in every direction by canals, and are used to move all the heavy or bulky freight that is received or sent out. The canals are about fifty feet wide, and deep enough to accommodate the rise and fall of the tide, and all are faced with cut stones. We then went back to the station and back to Yokohama, where we ar- rived at 5 p. m In going from our legation we passed through the parade ground, where troops were drilling. It was large two or three hundred acres. 16 A WINTER IN The infantry were the largest, best looking men ; all are very Frenchy in their dress uniforms. We also panned the residences of the ministers of the other nations represented at the Court of the Mikado; comparing them with the residence of our minister, one's pride is not very highly exalted at the liberality of this uraml and rich and powerful nation. My opinion is that, in order to command respect, we should pay our representatives such salaries as will ena- ble them to live in as good style as do the representatives of other nations. Christmas day, December 25th, 1889 We arose at 7:80; sun shining bright, and about as warm as in Los Angeles, and while dressing were handed our mail from home. Mrs. G. had a good cry, and I felt a little homesick myself, but was consoled when I remembered that we could not be in Japan and have all our loved ones with us, and that our pleasure will be so much enhanced when we get back arid meet them all again. We rode around the bluff and around Mississippi Bay. It is a beautiful drive up hill and down dale. We also visited the Bluff Park ; it is not large, but very handsomely laid out and planted with roses and other flowering shrubs of the country. December 26th Did not go to Tokio to-day. Our guide reported at 8 :45 this morning that the wife of one the guild had died, and that he wished to attend the funeral ; hence the visit to Tokio was deferred until the morrow. So we went to 245 bluff to call on Mrs. and Dr. Hepburn, but, s^rry to say, found them out. So we returned and spent an hour on the bridge that crosses the creek, on the line that the funeral procession would pass to the temple, but it failed to come ; and Mrs. G. complained of being tired, so, much to her dis- gust , we left the post and went home. She was out of sorts, because she wished to see how such things were done in Japan. Here the bodies are all cremated, the ashes put in an urn and generally deposited in one of the tem- ples. December 27th This morning Katsu sent Kame Fugii to go with us to Tokio as guide. So on the 9 :15 train we went, and on arriving at the Sim bash i took jinrikshas for the day and started. First we went to the temple which contains a shrine dedicated to the Second Shogun, and in the same enclosure is his tomb. It is on top of a low hill, and is surrounded by a grove of large- size red cedars. You reach it by a flight of stone steps ; on each s de of the way is a row of stone lanterns ; the mausoleum is square, and about thirty feet on each side, and about forty feet high ; the eaves project about six feet, and the ends of the rafters and projecting beams are carved into heads oi lions, painted and gilded ; all around under the eaves, just over the doors, are carv- ings of eagles, geese and ducks in relief, all painted and colored to represent the living fowls. All parts of the walls not covered are lacquered red ; it is very beautiful. The gabled ends of the house are finished with carvings, painted, anl with chased plates of brass, overlaid with gold; the inside walls, above the doors, are painted and adorned with the portrait of a woman por- trayed as flying; some show the legs and feet of a chicken, each one playing a flute or flageolet, and dressed in flowing robes of bright colored very thin ma- terial, that does not hide the form. The walls between the doors are panels of copper, gold-plated (which have been marred by parties trying to scrape off the gold thi3 was done during the revolution in 1868.) The ceiling is sup- ported by two wooden columns, encased in bronze and lacquered black. The sarcophagus is a beautifully worked urn of bronze, of about eight feet in height JAPAN AND CHINA. 17 and five feet in diameter; it rests in a shallow basin, cut out of a single stone; it is carved in flutings and scalloped edge, is about three feet high, by eight or ten feet in diameter. This basin sits on a square block of stone that is about eighteen inches thick. In the urn is deposited the ashes of the Second Shogun. We went out of the mausoleum through the gate facing the east. (It is surrounded by walls of stone, nicely cut, and about ten feet high, and has two gates one facing the north, the other the east.) Down a flight of stone steps we turned to the right, and at a few feet we were shown by the guide and attending priest a stone which was sculptured and cut in high relief figures representing the scene at the death of Buddha; (Mrs. G has a painting of the same, which Conradi bought at Nikko, and she of him, because his trunk was not large enough to hold it.) To the south stands a five-story pagoda; it is painted and lacquered red, and adorned with carvings, but not so elaborate as the one seen at Nikko. We returned to the temple, after covering our feet with cloth shoes, furnished by the priest ; it is large and adorned and embellished inside and out with carvings, painted and colored, with plates of bronze chased and gilt, wherever they could be placed to show to good advantage. All the fowls and birds of Japan are here represented in wood carving, and treated in a spirited and lifelike manner. The carvings are placed in fretwork, some among vines and flowers, others in fancy designs of scroll work. All is set out from the wall eight to ten inches, making the whole work in very high relief. All this work has been done by the hands of a master. In front of the altar is placed the lotus flower and leaves, and small ima^s in gilt the stork standing on the tortoise, and candelabras in bronze; reading desks and coffers black lacquered, containing sacred script of the acts and sayings of Buddha, and here read by the priest <. We next went to Shiba. It is large, and a great deal of labor has been devoted to its adornment, but is commencing to look rusty. We entered by the gate facing the east the one before described as being guarded by lions. In this temple are placed life-size statues of the Fourth, Sixth, Twelfth and Fourteenth Shoguns. It is still more profusely adorned than the last temple, with paintings, carvings, bronzes and gildings. The altar was adorned with curtains of green silk em' roidered with gold thread, and on the right and left sides, against the wall, were panels about eiaht by ten feet, of copper, plated with gold, on which were painted lions, one blue and the other green; these panels have been marred by scraping off the plate in places. The ceiling is divided into panels of about two by three feet, and painted white, and each adorned with a carved and gilt eagle. In panels of about two feet wide by six feet long, placed on the wall a foot below the ceiling, are carvings of the lotus flower and leaf, peonias aud pond lilies, all colo-ed and painted in fact, noth- ing was omitted that, from a Japanese standpoint, would add to the beauty of this temple of "Shiba." On the opposite side of the street is a bazaar, in which is offered for sale all of the products of Japan. We spent an hour in going through the several departments; then went to the Tokio Hotel, had tiffin, then went to Ueno Park. It is large, well laid out, groves of cherry, pine, elm and cedar; is on high ground, and overlooks the city. We passed by a "dia butsu" of bronze; 18 A WINTKR IN it is about thirty feet high. We also passed the museum, hut it is now closed : also the buildings that are being erected for the Japanese Exposition, which will he opened on April 1st, 1890. From Ueno we went to As.ik^i Garden and temple. The garden is one of the handsomest in Japan ; it is large some hun- dred or more acres ; miniature lakes, hrooks spanned by bridges of stone. One was a suspension bridge constructed of bamboo. Our guide informed us that such bridges had been in use for thousands of years. In this garden I saw a Wistaria vine that was two feet in diameter, was trained on trellis work cover- ing more than a half acre of ground, and I was told that it produced flowers the sprays of which hung down two or three feet in length. There were many pretty walks over miniature hills and through dales; in this garden are many booths and tea houses We paid half a sen each admission fee and entered an enclosure ; on each side of the walk were arranged, on shelves and in pots, dwarfed trees; plum trees eighteen inches high, just ready to bloom ; pines and oaks, each one hundred years old, not more than eighteen inches to two feet high. On the left, in a small inclo'-ure containing a small pond of water, were five ducks such as you see in the Japanese paintings, with the wide feather that stands up behind the wing; two storks, white, with dark green tail and wing feathers, and a Muscovy duck. We passed along between rows of dwarfed trees, all in pots, by an aviary, in which was a parrot and several small birds of bright plumage ; next an enclosure in which was a drab stork ; next a den with a badger in it, and a cage containing a tuer the largest and prettiest marked one that I ever saw ; adjoining this was a cage in which was a black bear; then came a deer and a goat, and then a coop of white chickens, with hair instead of feathers; and on a perch enclosed in a narrow box, the front and back covered with wire net, sat a small white chickencock, about five feet from the ground ; the tail feathers reached to and laid two or three feet along on the ground; these feathers must have been from eight tp ten feet long; on the sides of his cage, and even with his head on one side, was a cup with water, the other side one with his food. He was tied so that he could not get down ; nor was the cage wide enough to allow him to turn around, so the poor fowl was compelled to pass its life tied to a perch. In the same garden, side by side, were orange trees in pots, some bearing very large oranges, others oranges not as large as the marbles that boys play with. We entered the temple yard, which, besides the temple, contained several shrines. On our left was a "dia butnu" in. bronze of about twenty feet in height; it is surrounded with statues in etone of saints. Next was a pavilion of about twenty feet square and twelve feet in height to the ceiling; in the center of the room vas the life-size figure of a god in gilt; and arranged around the loom on shelves, each row set back of the other, were hundreds of gilt statues, about fifteen inches high, of gods and saints. Along to our left was the life-size statue in bronze of the god who was the patron of the fishermen ; he had on a hat, and in one hand held a spear. We entered the temple Asaksa; the floor is about six feet above the ground ; the building is about sixty by eighty feet, and about sixty feet to top of roof; is of wood, painted red and lacqueied, is plain on outside. It fronts to the south. We entered on the east side. The first thing we saw was the god who cures disease by rubbing. The afflicted ru'-s the part of the image corresponding to the part of the body that is diseased, then gently rubbing the JAPAN AND CHINA. 19 diseased part, and if the party has faith the cure is quick and almost sure. This god has been well patronized his nose has been rubbed off and other parts are much worn. The temple is divided through the center by a row of columns and a rail. On the northeast side is a pile of nine rolls of rice in long sacks, and several implements of husbandry ; in the center an altar, with can- dles lit and incense burning; a row of priests sitting at their desks, reading, while others were chanting a mass ; people coming and going, they stop be- fore the altar, throw into the coffer their cash, clap their hands and devoutly pray a short prayer, then give place to others. Still, on the left, is the life-size gilt figure of another god, and behind it is a large mirror, so arranged that you see the back and front of the god at the same time. In front of the rail are chil Iren at play, men and women buying and selling, and the money-changer is also there. Altogether the scene is well described in our New Testament. On the walls, suspended irom the ceiling and disposed of around on the floor are votive offerings of paintings, carvings, panels and many other things to us very odd, and some of them decidedly grotesque. From the ceiling were suspended many huge paper lanterns, some of them beautifully: painted. Our guide in- formed us that this was the most popular temple in Japan. We went out of the yard by the south gate. In the regulation niches on each side is guarded by colossal figures, one painted blue, the other red ; their features are very much distorted, as if in fear or horror. We went to the station and back to Yokohama, which we reached at 5 p. m. December 28th Katsu did not show up this morning, so we did not go to Kamakura. Sunday, December 29th It is a real Los Angeles day clefr, bright sunr shine and no wind. After breakfast took a long walk. There is no Sunday in this land; work goes on, the shops all open as on any other day. In the outr skirts of the city I passed a very small shrine, which attracted my attention by its having in front of its altar two gigantic statues of the gods of thunder and wind; on the right was that of thunder, painted red and with a bolt in his right hand ; that on the ^eft of wind, painted blue and with bag of wind around his neck ; they were at least ten feet high each, carved of wood and well pro- portioned and well i'.nished, but with features horribly distorted. In the after- noon we went for a ride on the bluff and to the tennis court. All the banks, incorporated companies and all other places where much business is transacted and money handled have Europeans for book-keepers, but a Chinaman is the custodian of all the cash. You go to a bank to draw money, a white man takes the check to see that it is in order, and hands it to the Chinese-"Shroff," who pays the money in fact, it seems that the China- man is the only man that is trusted in this land. Another thing appears strange to one that is the entire b?e - ce of nil labor-saving machinery. To illustrate one instance will suffice: The town has many water ways, on which the freight traffic is done; these water ways re wide, and at low tide have five or six feet of water; the sidea are walled up with nicely cut stones. One of these canals runs alongside of the Grand Hotel, and near it a portion of the wall on the west side of the creek caved in ; and, to repair the damage, a water-tight d.tm of plank was put in of about one hundred feet long, parallel to and three feet from the wall, and each end joined to the sound portion of the 20 A WINTER IN old wall. The stone had been taken out and the earth removed, but the water still remained; and, in order to get the water out, so that the masons might rebuild the wall, this was done by men with buckets attached to a sweep, as was formerly done in this country to draw water from a well ; six sweeps were in use; three men in the water and one man on top to discharge the bucket; as it held only about two gallons, the work did not progress very fast. The mode of moving earth, small stones and coal is done in small baskets that hold about one-third of a bushel each suspended from each end of a pole carried on the shoulder. I Haw them driving piles on which to erect a building; a frame was set up about thirty feet high of two pieces of timber, about two feet apart, and between them at the top was placed a grooved wheel of about thirty inches in diameter, over which ran a rope ; one end was fastened to a beam which was about twenty feet long and one and a half feet in diameter; this beam was raised by men pulling on the rope that passed over the wheel ; and, raising the beam about five feet, at the word all let go, causing the blow to be delivered on the head of the pile. There were eighteen men on each pile, and they drove about two short piles per day. Last night Mr. Lyon and myself concluded that we would visit the quarter set apart for the "soiled doves." In Japan this class are all under the p]>ecial supervision of the police and medical department, and a part of the city is set apart for them ; and they are compelled to dress differently from other women, so that they are distinguished at a glance. The place is in the best part of the city ; the houses are larger, the streets wider, and the girls are all joung; most of them are bought when children and are trained to the business; taught to play on the koto and banjo, and are also taught all the other Japanese accom- plishments usually given to the women of the country, and serve ten years. It is not considered disreputable for a girl to have been one of this class. After their term of service has expired many of them marry well, for they are better educated and dressed than most of the girls are of the class from which they sprang. We took jinr ikslias at 9 :30 and ordered the men to take us to see the "Jo Jos." It is in the southern part of the city ; there are three or four streets in which they are domiciled. The houses are two-story : the floor of the lower story is raised about four feet from the ground and covered \\ith matting, and divided into rooms of twenty to thirty feet in length and ten wide ; the front is protected by grilles only, so that the passerby sees all that is in the rooms. The girls were sitting along the back wall, with a brazier before each one, in which was a fire for them to warm their hands; all were dressed in fine robes of silk, some smoking; in some of the rooms were only five or six; in one I counted thirty girls. The rooms were all well lighted, so that the goods were displayed to the be>t advantage. We stopped in front of several of the houses and had a good look at the girls; none of them said a word or made a Hgn to us in fact, no more modest looking or well behaved company of girls could he found in Japan than these that were here set on exhibition. We saw abi.ut five hundred of them. I am informed that there are twelve hundred registered prostitutes in Yokohama. This being near New Year the natives are all very bucy in preparing for it, and as they have adopted January 1st as their New Year, are decorating the doors and gates of every house with boughs of pine and bamboo; also wreaths of camellia and oranges, with flowers and fruit; in the center of the wreath is JAPAN AND CHINA. 21 a cooked lobster, and is emblematic of a long life, happiness and plenty. The festival commences December 31st and lasts until January 3d. and as we wished to see all that we could of the people, we went up to Tokio on the 4:15 p. m. train, reached there at 5 :05, and in jinrikshas for an hour and a half went from street to street to see the immense crowd of people who thronged the streets, all dressed in their very best attire. The shops were all decorated with boughs of pine and bamboo and pots of dwarfed plums in bloom, and lighted brilliantly within, and a vast number of colored lanterns festooned in front on masts and poles, and suspended from lines crossing the streets, and as the night was dark the scene was very beautiful. Outside of the'pavement and along each side of the main street, which is wide and extending for miles, were booths for the sale of small ware and confections. In thousands of them were sold braids and twists of rice straw with which to decorate the house god. To me it was a source of wonder where the purchasers could be found for all this stuff. We also saw parties going from door to door, dressed in fantastic attire; one wearing a hideous mask, posturing and bowing; another beating a drum, others playing a fife and, I suppose, soliciting alms. Such music as they do make ! The scene was very gay. One could spend hours watching the busy, happy, good-natured throng come and go, each one occupied with his own pur- chases and preparations for the morrow's festival. We also saw piles of slabs and balls of rice dough, from which, every Japanese must have a piece for his New Year's breakfast, in order that he may have plenty to eat during the year to come. I saw so much of the things offered for sale that it leaves only a confused impression on my mind hence cannot describe them. At 6:30 went to the Tokio Hotel, had dinner, and again back to the main street and on to the ''Yoshiwara;" and as this is the grand fete of the year, and everything and everybody in gala attire, Mr. Lyon and myself concluded that it was the best time to show Mrs. L. and Mrs. G. the prostitute quarter in Tokio. So, ! under the guidance of Katsu Sam, we went to the " Yosbiwara," where all was gay and brilliant. The streets are wide, with rows of cherry trees on each side; the houses are large, of two, and some three, stones high, with large offices in the rear of the show rooms, which are arranged into cages, as in Yokohama, but much larger, and furnished in fine and elegant manner; the side and back walls with mirrors, paintings, carvings and panels of lacquered wood, and also much bric-a-brac, lace curtains, gilt figures, et. . The girls were dressed in the finest robes that the looms and skill of the east could pro- duce ; their hair dressed in accord with Japanese taste, and ablaze with orna- ments of gold and crystal, flowers and feathers ; in some of the cages the girls sat on chairs around tables, though most of them were arranged in rows along the back wall, and were sitting in Japanese manner on their feet. In some of the cages were forty or fifty girls, in others but few. Over the door to each house was suspended a lantern, with the number of the house and price of the wares sold painted on it, so that there was no dispute after the customer had selected the goods he wanted. The inside was brilliantly lit, and outside was adorned with thousands of colored lanterns. I noted among them many very young girls; none were over twenty, and many as young as twelve years. Our guide informed me that there were ten thousand licensed prostitutes in Tokio, and all living together in this section. I think they are owned by indi- 22 A WINTKR IN viduals and companies. The girls most all had the broad, flat face and high cheek hones of the lower classes ; some few Anios, and very few of the thin face and Roman nose of the high caste. We saw several thousand of them, but not one that I thought pretty. The surroundings are the finest in the city. The whole trade is under the supervision of 'the government, both police and sanitary, and e"ery precaution is taken to make the trade as little objectionable as possible. Since writing the above I have been to all the large cities and many of the small ones in Japan, where I find the same state of affairs exist; in the villages, where there are only fifteen or twenty licensed prostitutes, toward night they dress, and in parties of four or five promenade up and down the main street but in no other way solicit patronage. At 9:55 p. m. took the train, and at 11 reached Yokohama, went to bed, and had just got to sleep when I was awakened by the firing of a gun of one of the ships in the harbor, announcing the birth of the new year, A. D. 1890, and it also seemed the signal for pandemonium to let loose its spirits to distract the weary sojourner and prevent his sleeping. A brass band com- menced to play all sorts of accords and discords in front of the house, then came in the house nd all over the house, up and down stair?, into every cham- ber that was not locked, through the halls, playing all sorts of tunes. The last thing I heard last night was the band playing in the bar-room, the boys sing- ing, and the smashing of glass; (my opinion is that the boys "made a night of it.") This is the way New Year was ushered in in the far East. New Year's day, 1890 To-day was quiet; walked through the city. All of the large shops were closed and the people enjoying the rest ; the young men were going from house to house making calls, very much as in America. Re- turned to the Grand at 1 p. m and stayed in doors the balance of the day; commenced raining at 5 and rained until midnight. January 2d, 1890 The Europeans still keep holiday and the Japs are all on a spree. January 3d Had made arrangements to go to Miyanoshta to day, but last night was rainy, and this morning cloudy and threatened rain, did not go and devoted the day to visiting the Fine Art Store. We were shown some very pretty things, and some that the dealers were very enthusiastic in extolling and were not modest in asking a price, but as I had not been long enough in Japan, was not educated up to tlie point at wliich one appreciates such things to me they were very near worthless. The Oceanic, from Hong Kong, arrived this morning, and had among her passengers Nellie Ely, the lady who sailed east at the same time Miss Bisland started west on a race around the world. The steward of the Oceanic called on us to-day and entertained us with an account of the escapades of Mr. McCaf- fery, who came out from San Francisco as elegiast for the "Examiner." January 4th We left Yokohama at 10:30 this morning fr Miyanoshta; left the railroad at Kodzu, which is twelve miles from the former place; had tiffin in a tea house, and in jinrikHhas started for Miyanoshta, which is up in the mountains. The first eight miles the road runs along the coast and crosses a small river, which, in times of flood, becomes a large one; we crossed on bridges and turned to the right into the mountains, going along the bank of JAPAN AND CHINA. 23 Sakawgawa, on which Miyanoshta is situated. This was a river twice the size of the San Gabriel ; its banks are walled with cut stones, and every foot of land in the bottom and on the hillsides, where a patch of land six feet square can be made for rice or vegetables to be planted, is under cultivation The stream runs very swift, or rather a succession of falls and rapids, the waler very clear. The road has a good grade, cut in the sides of the mountain, tirst on one side, then crossing to the other ; every few hundred yards would come to a brook, tumbling down into the river in a succession of cascades that were very beau- tiful. At our destination we had reached a point five hundred feet above the river, and about fourteen hundred feet above the sea ; the la-t two hours of our ride was in a snowstorm, the first that I had seen for twenty yearn. We ar- rived at 3 :30 p. m., and I at once took a bath in the hot sulphur water, which I found very refreshing; the water is brought in bamboo tubes from a spring on the side of the mountain, about three hundred yards away. The water is about 100 Fahrenheit, and is slightly impregnated with sulphur, and perhaps a little iron, and has fame for its curative properties in rheumatism and skin diseases. The hotel is kept by a Japanese, and is scrupulously clean. The food is good and cooking Al. The servants are all young Japanese girls, and, from a Japanese standpoint, pretty. We were assigned rooms Nos. 14 and 15 ; in No. lo was a small sheet-iron stove, the pipe running outside of the house ; No. 14 also had a stove, without a pipe, in which was put charcoal that had been burned enough to consume the gas. As the night was cold, about ten degrees above zero, the fire in 15 was about out, and as we were sitting in 14, commenced to put coal in the stove that had not been burned, and as there was no pipe to carry off the fumes they escaped into the room and made us sick before we found out what was the matter. And we are thankful that the Yokohama papers have no item from Miyanophta reporting the death by asphyxia of Mrs. and Mr. G. last night, "whether a case of suicide or accident is not known." We left there at 8:'5, and on leaving the landlord very kindly wished to see us back in a hundred years. I thought the time ?et was very short, but as it was only a wish I let it go without remark, as it would not shorten my days. The morning was clear and bright; sunshine, no wind, and just enough frost in the air to make the blood tingle as it ran through our veins ; the scen- ery was grand ; the boys went in a fast trot, and we made the twelve miles in two hours ; reached Kodzu an hour before train time, and spent the time walk- ing around the station. Mrs. G. was an object that attracted the Japanese women and children, and they all had to see, and many feel of, her sealskin coat. There was nothing offensive in their actions only childish curiosity and admiration of things to them new and strange. We went by rail to Fujisawa, where we again took jinrikshas and went six miles to the "Dia Butsu." The country was well cultivated, and the ride through it was very pleasant. This figure is one of the largest in Japan, and sits (it is in a sitting posture) in a valley about two miles from the sea, in the midst i>f a garden of shrubs and flowers, brooks and miniature lakes ; among the trees was a maple, the leaves of which were a rich dark crimson, and was one of the handsomest arhoristic plants that I saw in Japan. The "Dia Bntsu" is fifty feet in height; length of face, eight feet six inches; length of ear, six feet six inches; width of nostrils, two feet three inches; width of mouth, three 24 A WINTER IN feet three inches, and is hollow; was cast in the year A. D. 1252, by one Go- roycomo, under the direction and supervision of Yoritomo ; it was ca*>t in sec- tions and put together so that it looks like a solid piece; the shell is about three feet thick and weighs four hundred and fifty tons. The interior in fitted up for worship, and has two shrines, in one of which is a figure of one of their gods; the other contains two statues about two-thirds life-size; all are gilt. The temple that covered this "butsu" was destroyed by a tidal wave in the year 1494. It is hard to believe that water from the sea could ever have readied this spot A sub.-ciiption was htaited to rebuild the temple, but for some rea- son nothing is done towards replacing the building. A priest is in attendance, who sells photographs of the Colossus, and will let you stand on its thumbs and have your photo taken, if you wish. From here we went south a v out half u mile, turned to the right and went about two hundred yards, came to Torii ; we passed through it and ascended a flight of thirty stone steps to a small tempi**, in which was a gilt image in a sitting position ; it was about ten feet in height. The steps turn to the left, and fifteen of them takes you to the temple yard ; to the right stands a large bell, which mint weigh twenty or thirty tons. The temple is about fcrty by sixty feet, and thirty-five or forty feet in height to top of roof, which is of straw, thatched. The walls are of wood and not painted, and is eix hundred and fifty years old it has the look of being very aged. Inside the temple, to the left and in front of the altar, sits a prie.-t collecting tolls. In the center, behind the altar, a huge gilt image; and to its left, in rows one above the other, were hundreds of small gilt gods. We paid the attending priest and, guided by him, passed around to the left, along a passage and through a small door, entered into the prepence of the great god of war, "Hau-ha;" it is lacquered black and gilt, is twenty-five feet six inches in height, is well carved, in proper proportion ; in the halo around and tiara cov- ering the head are many small gods, all gilt. This is really a work of art. It is kept in a dark room, and, that you may see the head and face, two lighted candles are placed on a board, and are raised and lowered by a boy working a rope that passes over a pulley overhead. It is said that this statue was fished up out of the sea eleven hundred and fifty years ago. From this room we went all around the inside of the temple ; the passage was about six feet wide, and arranged along the wall every few feet was a shrine or god. The last before going out was the fat, pot-bellied god of wealth. He is the most repulsive looking of all their gods, but, as in some other countries, is worshipped more than any other god. The temple of Kamakura is about a mile and a half from Haicha, and is one of the most noted places in Japan's history; by her poets its fame is sung; her painters delight in delineating it beauties on their canvas. It is in a small valley, surrounded by low hills; there are entrances to it at each point of the compass, one of which is from the sea, and one by a deep cut through a rock on the south. The name "Kamakura" means ''Sickle store house." The legend is that Kama Tariko, the Mikado's Prime Minister, who died A. D 669, while on a pious pilgrimage, spent a night near the present site of Kamakura, and in his dreams was told by the Kami (god) to bury a precious sickle which he carried with him in the hill called Matnugaoka; he did PO, and he and his descendants ruled the district for many generations. Kamakura was for nearly four hundred years the political capital of Japan. It was the seat of the Minamoto JAPAN AND CHINA. 25 family. Yoritomo, who was the first Shognn, made it, in 1196, the political capital of the empire ; and at one time it is said to have contained 800,000 population ; and at and around it have been fought many bloody battles. The Shogun lyeyasu, seeing that there was not level land enough around Kam- akura to contain a city the size he wished his capital to be, moved to Yeddo, now called Tokio, and Kamakura lost its greatness, soon becoming the village that it now is. The approach to the temple from the sea is through a long, wide street, planted on each side with rows of pine and cedar, and have many Toriis along the way, under which you pass. The ground around the temple is well laid out and planted with groves of trees the pine, plum, cedar, cherry, maple and many others ; also the tree peony (called the "Pride of Japan"), camellia and other flowering shrubs ; brooks, canals and ponds, in which are grown the lotus. On the lowland in front of the temple, and about a hundred yards from it, is a building about twenty by forty feet, with platform about four feet high, (sides of building not inclosed), in which is danced the "Kagura Deu," the sacred dance of the Shinto priests. The temple stands on a plateau about thirty feet above, and the hillside has been cut down and walled up with cut stone, and to reach the temple you ascend a wide flight of stone steps, fifty-eight in number. On the left stands a Ginko tree, said to be more than a thousand years old, and is of historical value; in 1218, A. D. Kugio, the grandson of Yoritomo, stood behind this tree, dressed as a girl, awaiting an opportunity to kill Sanetomo, his own uncle, who had been made Minister of State in place of Kugio's father, killed to make place for Snnetomo; this design was accomplished one night as Sanetomo descended the steps. The view is beautiful from the front porch of the temple, looking towards the sea and over the village; and, as it was a fete d ty. the wide avenue was thronged with gaily dressed people coming to and going from the temple, all in good spirits; it made a picture that I will not BOOM forget. The temple yard was crowded with people, bu}'ing and selling, music playing and showmen per- forming it put m in mind of fair day at home. On each side of the gate, in the niches, were life-size figures of soldiers, dressed in white, each with bow and quiver filled with arrows This temple is large and well built, of wood, painted and lacquered red ; all around the three sides of the temple were clois- ters in which were kept first the chairs that were used in their processions, figures of gods in shrines and alone; one was that of a lady playing a banjo; to the right was the armory, in which was stored the swords, armor, saddles and many other relics of the Sliognns, all of which is well worth seeing This is a Shinto temple, in which there is never any furniture except a drum, a mirror and strips of white paper. There are several minor temples and orato- ries in the yard, but this is the principal and only one worth describing. From Kamakura we went by rail back to Yokohama. January 6th Rusy preparing to start for Kioto. January 7th We had intended going to Tokio this afternoon in order to get a sight at the Mikado, who is to review the troops to-morrow morning, but it is announced in the papers today that owing to illness His Majesty would not be present, PO we concluded to start south to-morrow at 10 a. m. ; so placed lar^e trunk and a box in the "godown" of the American Trading Com- pany, No. 28 Main street, and had them underwrite for $600 for three months, which cost me $2.25. The day has been fine. Went around town and bid 26 A WINTER IN adieu to Messrs. Howard, Kiel, Wheeler and Greathouse, settled with the bank and am now ready to go. January 8th Left Yokohama at 10:30 a. m. for the southern part of the empire. Our first halt was at Shidzuka, six hours' ride from Yokohama, and is through a beautiful country, highly cultivated ; much time and vast sums of money have been spent on the banks of the river, up which you ascend to get up to and around Fujiyama; the banks of the river have been walled with cut stone for miles; wing dams have been made of long bamboo baskets of twelve to fifteen inches in diameter, filled with stones and piled one on top of another (the Japs cull them snake baskets). The grade is steep to the plain from which Fuji springs ; it is about two thousand feet above the sea. On reaching this plain there stood Fuji before us a single cone, looming up twelve thousand feet, about one-third of itw height covered with snow, and so clear was the atmos- phere that it seemed we could put out our hands and touch it, but it was fifteen or twenty miles away. The plain is inhabited and cultivated up to where the mountain commences to abruptly raise from it ; the railroad runs fully one- third around the mountain before it commences to descend to the sea coast. During the afternoon we rode around the north, east and south sides of Fuji ; it is the highest and most celebrated mountain in Japan ; in all their paintings, either Kakamon or on porcelain, you see Fuji yama delineated. We descende 1 to the sea at Iwabuchi ; it is quite a city, at the mouth of a large river, or at least is during the rainy season it is the outlet for a large volume of water. There has been a vast amount of labor done in building walls and dams of stone. Alter leaving this place the road runs along the beach for several miles, where we saw many people engaged in making salt from sea water; it is done by leveling off the sand on the shore and repeatedly sprinkling the sand with sea water until it is rich enough in salt, when it is leached out through a hopper and the brine boiled until the salt H produced. It is a slo*' and tedious process, but as labor has but little value in fact, the cheapest article in Japan it is all right. At the next station we waited ten minutes, and I passed the time in watch- ing a man fill the water tank that supplied the engines of the railroad ; he was stationed on a platform about twenty feet from the ground; in the frame over his head was a wheel, over which passed a rope having a bucket at each end of it, and as the empty bucket was lowered into the well the full one came up, and he emptied it into the tank. This was done at a station where ten or twelve trains take water each- day. We arrived at Shidzuka at 4 p. m., and went to the hotel ; it is near the depot. The second story is kept for Euro- peans, and is very good; the bed was a spring mattress, sheets clean, and plenty covering-^Mrs. G. pronounced it O. K. Had a good dinner; plenty of it and well cooked ; before it we went out to see the city ; it is noted for being the residence of the last Shogun, whose castle had been torn down, the wall falling into ruin, the moat dry; and a general "gone in" look all about it. We were followed by crowds of boys and girls until we reached an improvised thea- ter, which proved a superior attraction. It was built of poles, covered with mats, but had banners flying, music such music ! ! playing, and two men at the door in loud voices proclaiming that the world-renowned troop of acrobats, led by Sanjiro, were then performing within ; so I made inquiry, and was in- JAPAN AND CHINA. 27 formed that in the evening would be given another performance, so after dinner we repaired to the place of the world-renowned company of iSatijiro Sam, and paid two sen each to body of house, and one sen each to a platform that ran along one side of the house; it was raised about five feet above the ground, and was about four feet wide, and as seats are never provided in a Japanese house, we had to send out for chairs, which cost us five een for three. The audience was large and as well behaved as you see anywhere else. Saw feats of strength, balancing and dexterity performed that were really wonderful. We staid until 9 o'clock, and would have staid later, but Mrs. G. complained of being cold, so we left the world-renowned troop to the Japs and went to our hotel and to bed, and sound asleep. January 9th We were awakened at 5 :30 to get ready for breakfast, had breakfast and at 7:15 took the train for Nagoya. The road runs through a broken country the first forty miles, then along the coast, crossing many streams, and now and then an arm of the sea; the scenery is very beautiful the sea dotted with islands, cities and towns, rivers and momtains, and in the distance a snow-capped chain of mountains. One largH river that we cros-ed had been levied so lontr that the silt deposited had raised the bed of the stream ten feet above the surrounding country, and when a break shall occur in the bvee much loss of life and destruction of property must ensue. Just before reaching Toyo Hachia we passed a sugar-loaf isolated cone that was about three hundred feet in height; on the top of it wa a "dia butsu" in bronze, that could be seen for miles in any direction around it. Arrived at Nagoya at 2 p. in. ; went to Cinacho Hotel, got a room, then started out to see the sights. It is the fourth city in the empire, is a garrisoned town ; has four thousand troops stationed here. We visited two temples, neither of which is very much noted ; in the yard of the last one visited stands a five-story pagoda ; it is very elaborately ornamented with carvings, but is not painted. We dined at 5 and went to our room, adjoining which was the public dining room ; a party of Japanese officers had ordered dinner. Mrs. G. spent some time in watching them to see how they done such things ; but as there were no women present and no wine, and but little "saki"' drank, it was a tame affair. Across a very narrow street, in front of our room, was a girl who commenced singing and playing a banjo about 3 o'clock in the morning; she made it lively for me until breakfast time after breakfast we went to see the castle and left her playing, and she may be doing so yet for all that I know. The cattle is noted for being the only one of the Olo Shogun castles not dismantled ; was built and finished by one of them two hundred and ninety years ago. It h:is an outer and inner wall and moat, now dry ; the wal's are massive, of cut stone, about twenty-five feet high from bottom of moat, and run at right angles, with offsets for places of defense. I think the outer wall inclo-es about a thousand acres of land, and inside are aii the barracks and offices and parade ground. The r^iw recruits were being drilled the morning we visited the castle ; the troops looked about the same as those of any other nation. We waited a few min- utes until the officer whose duty it was to show visitors through the castle came to his office. W 7 e passed through a gate in the inner wall ; this wall is high and massive ; the moat is wide, partly filled with water a part of it is used to grow the lotus. The way was winding, which was done to offer bettter defense against a storming party. A portion of the moat was dry, and in it were three 28 A WINTER IN deer. In front of the castle are the offices occupied by the Mikado when at Nagoya, and the officer in charge informed us that we were lucky in cowing when we did, for they were about to commence putting the rooms in order for the expected visit of the Emperor, when no visitors would be admitted. The rooms are twenty or thirty in number; the walls were painted and paneled, the panels jjilt, on which were painted lions, tigers, leopards, pheasants, chicks, ducks and geese, villages and trees the pine and the cherry, the latter in full bloom. The ceilings are divided into panels, and on them painted the flowers most celebrated in Japan ; in several of the rooms are woo \ carvings, painted and colored as the objects were in life. The work had all been done by the best artists in Japan. Some of the panels, I was informed, had been painted four hundred years. After looking through all these rooms we then went into the castle. The ground story is twenty-five or thirty feet high, built of huge blocks of finely cut stone, each block weighing many tons, laid without mortar or cement, and to-day after three hundred years have passed since its erection it looks as though it was but yesterday completed. The cattle is five stories in height, each one smaller than the one below it; the first has its gabled ends facing one east and the other west ; the second story Cables face north and south, and so on alternately up to the last, which is finished on top and point of each of its gables with a huge fish, the scales of which are plates of gold; they are now inclosed in netted wire, which was done because eome time ago a man reached one of them by a kite and succeeded in tearing off a scale before he was seen. All the projecting ends of the rafters and the roof are covered with plates of copper about half an inch thick, ma e into tiles and put on the same way. There are one hundred steps to be climbed before reach- ing the top. Mrs. G. did get up there and enjoyed the view. It was very beautiful ; the city and surrounding plain laid spread out below us like a map; the snow-capped chain to the north does not detr ict anything from the beauty of the scene. Inside the castle is a well to supply the garrison with water iu time of siege, and is called "the well of golden water." The doors of the castle are huge affairs of wood, covered with iron, and at the time they were built were practically impregnable. The beams in the castle are all in perfect order, notwithstanding the ; r great age and being of white pine. On each corner of the inner wall stands a two-story guard house and watch tower. We left Nagoya at 12 noon, and in about thirty miles commenced to ascend the mountains, passing through a beautiful country; reached the famous Lake Bivva about 4 p. m., and ran along it for more than an hour; it is a very pretty sheet of water, situated in a high mountain valley and sur- rounded by high hills; in summer, when the trees are all in leaf, must be very handsome. We arrived at Kioto at 5 p. m., and went to the Hotel Yaami. January llth At Kioto. Kioto was from B. 0. 60 until A. D. 1868 the capital of the empire, and was for thousands of years previous to the former period a large city. It is situated in a valley about five miles in width, which runs north and south. The Yaami hotel is on the west side of the hills, east of the city, and from the window of our room we have a view of the city spread out on the plain below us, and it looks as though it was built up solid. The street? are so narrow that you cannot trace more than two or three of them. The roofs are covered with a black tile, that is fastened on with white cement, and gives a very odd-looking scene. The morning was cold, so we did not go JAPAN AND CHINA. 29 out until after tiffin; then We went out to see the temples. Mrs. G. com- plained that she could not walk, so went back to the hotel, left her, and with Katsu went out, first to the Temple Chioin. In the yard under a shed stands a bell, which is one of the wonders of Kioto; it is of bronze, eighteen feet high, nine feet in diameter, and nine and a half inches thick, and is only sounded during the festival of Giyoki, or on some extraordinary occasion, when the people are called together. It can be heard twenty-five miles. It is sounded by being struck with a huge beam of wood, which is now done by machinery. Formerly it took sixteen men to sound the bell. The temple is large and very aged built A. D. 1170; roof thatched ; in front and on the left of the steps stands a large bronze urn lavatory. The "sammon" or great gate leading to the temple is a wonderful structure, one hundred and fifty feet high; it stands in the center of the inclosure, and is of two stories ; a steep flight of stairs leads up to the upper story, which is a long room, containing idols, each one of which represents one of the passions of mankind ; from the gallery you have a grand view of the city and the country to the south and west. Went from this to Kiomidz. It is a delightful and picturesque spot, visited by thousands, either for worship or pleasure. This temple was built A. D. 798, the entrance to which is through a gate; in the niches on each side of it are the never-wanting guards ; these were of men, about life-size ; the paint is off in many places they look a little the worse for the twelve hundred years' guard that they have stood at their posts. Before reaching the temple you pass two pagodas and several shrines. The temple is large, is built on the side of a very steep hill; from the floor of the piazza on the south side to the ground below is about fifty feet. In former times people came to this temple to pray for some special object, many of them, after months of prayer and waiting, not receiving the answer desired would become disheartened and throw themselves on the rocks below. This Mikado caused works to be put up that renders such action difficult, and gives the priests time to interfere and arrest them. This temple is not ornamented inside, ; as at Asaksa, many votive offerings of carvings, paintings, lanterns and all sorts and kinds of objects. Along to the right about fifty feet is another temple (this being fete day there were a great many people praying in the temples and before the shrines) in which was a large gilt figure of Butsu; still a little to the left was a shed, front all open, in which were ar- ranged on shelves many hundreds of stone gods, each with a piece of red cloth tied around its neck. On the top shelf was a huge black one with a gilt col- lar; a few feet to the right is another shrine, in which was a mirror, the lotus, rice, stork and gilt images of Butsu, incense burning and lighted candles on the altar. To the left, outside of the screen, but in the temple, was the god of health one lacquered and gilt, but had been so well patronized that most of it had been rubbed off. There was hung on a panel over the door in the side room, where the priest sat taking his tax, a sword of one of the great captains of olden times. Adjoining was another shrine ; in it was a brown and several gilt gods On the floor, to the right and left in front of the altar, were two gods, very much distorted and somewhat hideous in look and gesture. We then went to Atani. It is a pretty temple ; the yard is paved with cut blocks of stone, and the steps leading up to the temple are nicely cut blocks of the same. Did not go inside, for it was full of people worshipping. There were three priests saying mass ; in the porch was a huge gilt lantern ; inside, 30 A WINTKR IN in front of the altar, weiv four gilt lanterns suspended from the ceiling. On top of the screen, in a panel in open relief, were some fine wood carvings, hut not painted. This temple was not painted, either outside or in. In the yard in front of the temple was a large bronze urn for a lavatory, and two large bronze lanterns; in fact, lanterns seemed to be the principal features at thin place. I concluded not to visit any other temple to-day, so, as it was not late, Katsu proposed that we walk through some of the principal Ftroets, which we did, and on the way down passed a small Zoo, in which were the birds and animals of the country ; they were about the same as in America, except a water animal like what we called "hell-bender," only it was much larger about three feet long and as thick as my arm ; and a peacock, the prettiest bird I have ever seen ; the tail was about four feet long and marked as they are here, but the breast and neck feathers were marked the same as the tail, only they were graduated in size from on the breast the size of a quarter of a dollar up to the head, whre they were no larger than the nail on your little finger; along the lower jaw was a strip, about a quarter of an inch wide, of bright yel- low ; the plume on its head was at least four inches long. You ca 1 not imag- ine a combination of colors that would be brighter or more dazzling than this bird had As it stepped out from the shade into the sunshine I thought it was the handsomest thing I had ever seen. The streets are kept very clean, and as this is a place of over five hundred thousand population, are filled with a never-ending crowd of busy people. You never cease wondering at the size of root vegetables, I saw at the stands rad- ishes three feet long, and turnips as large as a child's head and weighing ten to twelve pounds. Mrs. G amused herself at the hotel with the curio peddlers. Of one she bought a pair of Cloisona vases; of another a bronze plaque, and of another a sword, and as she is delighted with her purchases I am contented. This part of Japan was the first settled by the race now inhabiting the country at O-=aka. Here and around Lake Bivva was the Aino found, and many bloody battles were fought before he would surrender this fair land ; in fact, he contested every inch of this island all of it was stained with his blood before he was driven to Yeddo and the islands to the north of it. The Japs say that they did not inter-marry with the Ainos; they speak of them as being only half human as the offspring of the intercourse of a woman and a dog, and on all occasions speak of them with great contempt. Sunday, January 12th This morning was cloudy, but at 9 o'clock started to see the temples. Went to Sanju j angendo, built in A. D. 11(52, because it is 190 feet long and is known far and near as the temple containing one thousand gods carved out of one tree. It is about sixty feet wide and as much in height, roof thatched ; not much adorned with carvings, nor is it painted ; has the ap- pearance of being very aged. As you enter the temple in the center, in front of you, is a gigantic statue carved of wood and gilt, and on his head are many small heads of minor gods; on his left and back against the wall is a huge carving of the god of wind, and is painted red, ha* bags full of wind around his neck ; standing in front of him and in a row are fourteen finely carved images of priests, life-size and painted and dressed as in life. On his right and back JAPAN AND CHINA. 31 against the wall stands the god of thunder, with a string of balls and bolts in his hands, and arranged in rows in front of him are the linages of fourteen soldiers and sages, carved in wood and dressed and painted as in life; and to the right and left of these centr.il figures stand, in five rows of one hundred each, life-size figures of men, deified ; on their heads are carved many small gods; around each head is a halo of bamboo splits, and each figure has many arms and hands, in each of which it holds a gift to be bestowed on the faithful, devout supplicant. All of this vast number of gods, great and small, had been painted and overlaid with goldleaf, but is now somewhat tarnished, it having been done more than seven hundred years, but are handsome yet, and must have been dazzling when fresh from the gilder's hands. This temple is also called the "Temple of the 33,333 Gods," as it is said that there are that number of figures in it. In the yard, in front of the temple, is an open shed, -which contains stone imaires; it is called "the children's gods." When soothing pyrup fails the mother takes the child here and devoutly a*ks to have it cured, and if she is a believer and the gods find her worthy, the prayer is always granted. (The carvings of the first twenty-one pieces described was done by Unka and Koka, famed for the excellency of their work.) The next object visited was the Hogoko Gate. It has some beautiful carvings that were done by the left-handed carver of Nikko fame. Next went to the temple containing a colossal head of Butsu. It is of wooil, overlaid with goldleaf, and is a very good likeness of the human head ; from the floor to top of head is fifty-fix feet; head proper, thirty feet. In front of the entrance and each side stands a head of Butsu ; and in the yard, under a shed, is a bronze bell eight feet in diameter, twelve feet in height; the ceiling of the shed was painted and adorned with flowers. We paid one sen for the privilege of ringing the bell. In front of this bell shed was a small temple, in which were the three images of Butsu of wood, gilded. We went from this to the new temple, which has been now thirteen years under course of erection, and, it is said, will take several years more to com- plete it. It is the most magnificent building that I have seen in Japan ; three hundred feet long, one hundred feet wide, and one hundred feet high ; on the front piazza were six coils of cables, each coil about five feet high, the cable four and a half or five inches in diameter; there cables are made of human hair, and was donated by the faithful women who were so poor that they could give nothing else. As the women of that land prize their beautiful hair very highly, you can believe that to them this was a great sacrifice. These cables were used to raise the heavy beams and other material that was used in the construction of this grand edifice. From the outside the building shows two stories in height; is of wood, covered with tiles, and profusely ornamented with larue beams of wood, the ends carved into heads of lions, dragons and other fancied designs in fact, so elaborate is the work that one becomes con- fused and bewildered looking at it. The roof covering the approach to the main entrance is about one hundred feet long, and is supported by eight col- umns ; these were covered with mats, so I could not see how they were orna- mented. On the capital of each, and running back on the rafter for about eight feet, were wood carvings of great beauty. The columns supporting the roof of the piazza were also covered, but I think the carvings on them were 32 A WINTER IN drairons; this piazza is about thirty feet wide, and runs across hot h ends and along the front of the temple. There were hundreds of men at work, and when done it will rival any building in Asia. The cost is estimated at ten million yen. Hongwanji Nishi belongs to the Monto sect, and are considered by many to be the largest and richest in Japan. We went around the square from the new temple to the gate Chokusimon, which was designed and carvings done by the said left-handed artist of Nikko. It is onlv opened to admit the Mikado or his ambassador. This gate is a thing of beauty. To the first temple we were not admitted, for there were being said prayers that would not be finished until the 18th. We went into the next temple; in front of this temple stands another sacred tree, which, the priest informed us, preserved the temple from fire that when fire was in the vicinity this tree vomited water that put out the fire. To enter this temple we had the order, "Remove your shoes from off your feet!" This temple is very large, and when we reached it could not enter it was so crowded with people hearing a mass. We waited until it was over, and entered before another was commenced. The vestibule was divided lengthwi.-e through the middle by a railing, to keep the immense crowd of people somewhat separated. In the center of the temple, behind the screen, were three large figures of Butsu, and in front of them the altar, with cloth of marvelous beauty ; on it were candles burning, in front a boy swinging a pot of incense ; the smoke and perfume of it was very pungent. On the right and left were rows of priests reading the prayers; on the floor in front of the altar were lotus leaf and flower, and the stork standing on the tortoise is all gilt ; the roof was so high and the cloud of smoke from the incense burner so thick that I could n )t see the ceilings. Tiiey were supported by huge round columns, gilt and burnished. On top of the screen before the altar were set panels of carvings, in alto relief, of the lotus and peony, painted and coloied the same as the flowers. Inside and out were many large gilt lanterns. The effect of this temple on me was pleasing arid of awe. All of the carvings and niches on the outside of the temple were protected with wire net to keep pigeons off. We passed through a covered way about one hundred feet to another temple; both way and temple were adorned with carvings and paintings. There are other temples in this group, but we did not care to visit them. We passed along the wall about one hundred yards to a gate opening into the garden ; it was very pretty, planted with all of the flowering trees, shrubs and ornamental plants of Japan, laid out in winding paths, hill-, lakes, brooks, miniature cascades, and all the devices known to the landscape gardener to make it pleasant. We were shown a fountain, or rather spring, and informed that the water was brought from the Hakusinda in pipes underground to supply it distance about ten miles. We crossed a brook on a stone bridge, went around the end of a little lake and along another brook to a house; the priest led us up a short flight of stairs to the balcony ; a few steps brought us to where it crohsed over a part of the lake. He pause and clipped his hands a time or two, then directed our attention to the fish ; they were coming to th spot in the water under where we stood ; some of them we saw coming around a point which hid the water beyond it from us, thus proving conclusively to my mind that the fish had heard the call and were coming in obedience thereto. Some of them were carp three feet long, some gold fish eighteen inches to two feet in length ; JAPAN AND CHINA. 33 there were hundreds of them.. This house had been the residence of Tyko. The walls were covered with paintings, some of them very fine. My attention was called to one panel, and I was asked, "Can yon see the moon ?" but could see nothing; I was taken to another part of the room, where I could =ee it very plainly in the painting where I had first failed. It being now 7 midday, we repaired to the hotel for tiffin. "Kurodani." The gate is very large two stories in height but plain; you ascend a wide stairway of fifty steps, railed and balustered with finely cut and sculptured stone. To the left stands the hell tower; in front of the temple stands two pine trees, one of them being famous from being the one upon which the General Kumagaya hung his armor when he renounced the bearing of arms. This general is one of those whose fame is sung by the bards, and the Japanese Shakespeare has written a tragedy, in which he is the central figure ; we saw it performed by the Booth of Japan. These trees are very old, have their lower branches bound to and supported by bamboo poles. In this yard are several temples; that on the light had an altar cloth with the same design as the crazy quilt ; standing before this altar was a man praying he kept on ringing a hand-bell ; this was done to fix and keep the attention of the gods to his petition. We visited several of the other temples. Then we crossed over a lotus pond on a stone bridge ; this pond is noted for the number of tortoise kept in it, but as it was winter they had all hibernated in the mud. On each side of the way were bronze Butsus; a little farther along to the right a shrine, dedicated to the General Kumagaya. We passed manj^ stone lan- terns, and ascended a high, steep hill, through an endless number of tomhs, tablets and Butsus of bronze and stone. On top of the hill was a five-story pagoda, painted and larquered red, and adorned with carvings; in the lower story is a lion god, painted green and partly g'lt. In all the temples Buddha is represented by three figures. The priest told me that this was done be- cause one Butsu had come, one was always with us, that one more would come and with him the end of the world (the Millenium). January 13th This morning when we awoke it was snowing, and had been for some time the ground was covered with it ; so we could not go out. About 12 o'clock the sun came out, and after titfin we concluded to visit the palace and the castle. The imperial palace nVst had our attention ; it is in the center of a park of about two hundred acres; the wall around the castle in- closes about ten acres, and is about fifteen feet high and is very thick ; is pierced by three gates; that on the south is never opened except for the Mikado; the officers and nobles enter by the west gate, and the general public by the east. Outside the wall the park is planted in the trees aid shrubs of Japan, and has a stream of water running through the center. The avenues are wide and the park clean ; everything in perfect order. The whole park is surrounded with a stone wall of great height and width ; the gates are not shut. The whole city has free access to the park. As we had special permits to inspect the palace, were admitted by the west gate; sent our permits to the office of the guardian, and in a few minutes he sent three officers to show us through. It is a succession of one-story buildings arranged around a square, in which is a min ature lake and garden. I did not notice the outside of the palace, but think it was not adorned, nor was it painted. We were first shown into the reception room, signed the book for the visitors and read the instruc- 34 A WINTER IN tions ; and, under guard of the three officers, were shown the audience room of the Mikado; it is forty by sixty feet, about twenty feet high, and shows a net- work of huge beams, nicely finished, but not painted; side walls and sliding doors painted storks on gilt, and are works of art were done thirty years ago by .-aka No Sano We were next shown a room in which there was a shrine in the center; it wa j about six by eight feet, and ten feet high, curtained with silk white, with reddis-h-brown flower very pretty ; the doors had cnr'aitis of the same mate- rial. Adjoining was the sleepinsr-room of the Mikado; the mat on which he sleeps is about six feet long, three feet wide and about six inches tbi< k, and made the same as that of any of his subjects ; it was inclosed on one side and both ends by a screen that was verv beautiful. The walls were decorated with paintings, but the room was so dark that I could not see the designs. We were then shown the throne room ; it is fifty by eighty feet, ceiling thirty feet in height, not painted nor carved in ceiling, buta network of beams; the side walls were paneled and panel* gilt, on which is painted birds. On the wall back of the throne, facing each other, on gilt ground, were painted two lions; and on the right and left of them, on each side, were life-size por- traits of eighteen men each one was celebrated either for his learning, piety or having been one of the great captain* of Japan. Ttie painting was well done, and we were informed that the likenesses were perfect. The throne is raised about eighteen inches above the matted floor, is about MX leet long and eight feet wide, is covered with a canopy of silk four black lacquered and gilt posts of two and half inches in diameter support the canopy ; the curtains are of white silk, having a small chrysanthemum leaf worked on it. The floor is covered with matting. The throne is an ordinary arm chair of dark wood, beautifully inlaid with mother of pearl of different colon* some green, gold and white ; in front of the throne, on the right and left, sit two lions of brass and gilt of about eighteen inches in height. The hall is divided through the center lengthwise by a row of columns, which form the line beyond which none of his subjects not of his household may pass when granted an audience. We were next shown the school rooms; the ceilings were finished with plain gratings of wood, one inch square and two feet apart; the walls paneled and painted pale buff' ground, with bands of blue and green, and also trees and flowers. We were shown many other rooms in which the Mikado received the ladies of his Empress suite and their friends; all were painted, some with storks, others cherry blossoms, some mountains, others marine views. These apartments all open on to a piazza We were next shown a room about twenty by thirty fe^; the walls were divided into panels, and were painted a light straw color for background, and on each panel is painted a flock of China geese, life-size; bn each one of the panels, which are six by ten feet, the subject is treated differently ; in some they are swimming; another on the bank of a stream, others flying, whilst others are calling to their mates and so perfectly natural is this all done that you can almost hear their cry and see the water splash up as they drop into it. This work was done by Kishiruyn about thirty- seven years ago. The officer informed us that all the paintings shown us are of recent production (except the first few panels shown) ; that thirty-seven years ago, one day at 12 o'clock noon, a fire broke out and consumed every- thing except the few panels referred to. There were many other rooms shown JAPAN AND CHINA. bat not different enough from these to note them here. The palace leaves a pleasing effect on your mind, but it does not seem that it is either grand or rich enough for the abode of an emperor. We thanked the officers for the kindness shown us and went to the Castle Nijo. This castle is to the west of the palace and about two miles away ; was built by the Tokugawa Shogun lyeyasu, A. D. 1601. It is surrounded by a moat and wall that is high and thick, of cut stones. This wall, like all others in Japan, is not perpendicular, but slopes in a curved line to the top; each corner is surmounted with guard house and watch tower; the gate is massive, and covered with iron plates. We passed through, and at an office to our right was the officer who examined our permits, and called another one to guide us and guard the things that we might and did covet. The castle has another wall which is very high and massive, of cut stone. We were first conducted to the south gate, that we might see its beauty ; it is about twenty feet wide and thirty deep, and forty to top of roof. It presents a gable outside and the other in, which is done to give space to ornament; on it is placed much carving of birds and flowers, done by the celebrated left-handed artist of Nikko. There are also many plates of brass, gilt and chased (and so well is this work done that though three hundred yeard have passed, yet the plates are as bright as when they left the gilder's hands.) Over the entrance the carvings were pheasants, colored as in life, and flowers. Around under the eaves run panels of carvings, also of great beauty. We were then shown, or conducted back to, the east gate, into the castle; signed the register kept for that purpose, and our guide proceeded to show us the rooms. The first one was about twenty by thirty feet, and fifteen feet to the ceiling ; the walls, for about eight feet in height from the floor, were pan- eled and papered, the paper gilt, and on it painted lions and tigers, all life' size and in colors. The ceiling was divided into squares of about two by three feet by bars of wood two inches thick and four inches wide, lacquered black ; the panels were painted white ground, and on it flowers of brilliant colors. Where the frames of the panels cross and on top of the side panels on the walls are plates of brass, plated with gold ; the plates are all chased and engraved, and on all of them are the three leaves of the marshmallow, the crest of the Shoguns. Over the panels on the walls were panels of carvings of wood in alto relief, painted and colored as in life. Next was a room in which the pan" els were storks; the ceiling paneled as in the other room, but painted differ- ent. We were shown many other rooms all adorned with carvings and paint- ings in designs of great beauty ; there were no high colors used on the walls except where there were pines or water shown ; the ground was either pale straw or gold. Next we entered a room where the walls were goats and deer, the panels in ceiling flowers, but all different; in this one the carvings are peacocks, and painted in all the brilliant colors that the bird has in life the bird is shown with tail raised and expanded. All the carvings in this castle are in alto relief and open work, and in position on top of the panels show pheasants in one room and peacocks in the other adjoining it. The rooms all open out on a piazza, which is ten or twelve feet wide, and in summer can be thrown all together for light and air. The next room was about twenty by forty feet ; the wall panels goldleaf on paper, and painted with peacocks and pheasants. Over the panels the 36 A WINTKR IN carvings were of peicocks, peony and lotus, with their leaves and flowers all painted as in life. The gold plates were profusely used, and were chased and embossed with storks, ducks, flowers and two pyramids. The east half of the floor was raised about a foot ahove the other half. In the east end was a recess of ahout two and a half feet in depth, and had a floor of one piece of wood a specie* of beech ; it was highly polished. On the left was another recess; the frame was black lacquer. The next room was an agricultural scene the little cottages, hills and fields well executed. The next adjoining room was a pale straw color, the panels painted with cherry trees, in full bloom ; the carvings were pheasants and peonies, the ceiling peonies. The next room was a marine view ships sailing, men fishing, mountains coining down to the sea, but ail in colors to correspond with the light straw color of the background; plates of brass, gilded, were so arranged that, looking at one of them from any angle, it showed the faint colors of the rainbow. The next room was a moonlight scene the walls goldleaf, on panels painted a river, with large trees; the birds were night heron ; the carvings corresponded to the paintings. The next was the audience room, where the Shogun received the Dimieos; the panels were gold- leaf, painted with storks the ceiling a thing of beauty. This room is about twenty by forty feet, and is divided about the center by having the floor raised about six inches; at the south end is a recess of about two feet deep; the floor of it is raised about eighteen inches and is covered with brocaded (-ilk ground green, flowers white, the frame black lacquered. On the left was' an entrance for the Shogun ; the wall of this was painted and goldleaf covered, represent- ing a fence made of sheafs of ripe rice straw ; it was very beautiful. The next was called the fan room. The paintings on panels and ceilings the fan ; the carvings were flowers chrysanthemum and peony. The next room was painted a light straw color background, on the panels was the eagle, each panel treated different ; in the ceiling panels the eagle is gilt. The carvings were the eagle and hawk, all painted in colors as the birds have when in life. The next room was of geese and heron, trees pine and cedar, ground covered with snow v , ceiling of pale flowers. All of these rooms open into each other by the panels sliding. We were next shown the room in which the Shogun gave audience to any- one that had the right to ask it. The panels were paper, covered with gold- leaf, paintings on panels storks, heron and snipes; the carvings over the panels were pheasants, the ceilings flowers all painted as the birds and flow- ers are in life. The piazza that runs around all these rooms is inclosed by sliding screens, and running along over the screens, in medallions of about eighteen inches by three feet, and placed about two feet apart, were wood carvings of birds, vines or flowers, all painted and colored as in life. At the corners, and where they wished to break the great length of the piazza, were sliding panels of wood, not painted, except with some bird or animal. All of this work has been done for nearly three hundred years, and some of it a much longer time; it has never been repaired or retouched, nor can it be done, for to touch is to destroy ; nor does it want any repairing the colors are as clear to-day as when laid on ; the bright ones have not faded ; the light ones, deli- cate straw, pale gold and light blacks and grays are as delicate in their shading and fresh in appearance as when they were first completed by hands long since returned to dust and forgotten by all and in everything except in this JAPAN AND CHINA. 37 grandly beautiful work. Nor can I say less of the goldsmiths who plated, em- bossed and chased the plates of brass and gold that are so profusely used in adorning the ceilings and walls of all parts of this castle, erected by order of the Shogun, who has placed his crest upon each piece of plate that is placed upon the outside as well as the interior of the castle, and gates in the walls. January 14, 1890 Kinkakuji ("Gold-Covered Temple") is situated on the west side of the city, at the foot of Kinkasayama, and is considered one of the most attractive places in the city. Its garden is frequented by great crowds in spring and summer, who delight to hold picnics in its groves; it is surrounded with a high wall. We paid ten sen each and entered into its sacred precincts. At about two hundred yards from the gate is a pretty little lake, dotted with miniature islands and rocks, spanned in its narrowest parts by stone bridges. On the bank, and partly over the lake, stands a temple of three stories in height ; in the first story are three Butsus as large as men, and before them an altar ; in the second story is a shrine made to imitate a grotto ; on the left of the grotto stands two figures of men carved in wood and gilded ; each one stands upon the body of a grotesque, contorted figure of a man lying on the floor; and on the right are also two men standing on the bodies of lions. These figures are all three-fourths life-size. This room is called "Budicic." This temple has been built five hundred years, and was originally covered with goldlt-af, but there is not much of it now just under the eaves is a very little. This temple shows that it is very old. Along to the north, reached by a path winding through the trees and ascending about twenty feet, is another pretty little lake, surrounded with large trees and rocks, with paths leading to shady bowers with pleasant seats. We went to the temple erected by the Shogun Yoshimitsu for his summer residence, but now used by the Mikado when he visits this temple. We were shown his rooms. Our attention was called to some paintings hanging on the wall, made by a Chinaman five hundred years ago. They looked as though they were painted last year. In the yard was a pine tree, trained and pruned into the semblance of a ship, with all sails set. We were also given tea and cake. Next we went to Kiteanc. This is a Shinto temple, in which were two large round mirrors, a drum and strips of paper, and, among others, one very large and handsome porcelain lantern. This is also called the "Bull Temple." In the yard were statues of many of them, and thousands of stone lanterns. The yard was planted with plum trees. The crest of the temple is the plum flower. On the gables were carvings of the heads of bulls. On the wall, just under the cover, running all around the yard, were carvings of birds and flowers. We next went across the city to the east side, to the silver temple Ginka- kuji ("Silver-Covered Temple.") One of the attractions is the garden ; it has a lake, waterfall and many trees and flowers ; in the lakes are many goldfish ; also a small house, with the image of AshikagaToshimasa, the Eighth Shogun, life--