'-^\\* 
 
 I 
 
 
 \1 
 
 2^-
 
 GIFT OF 
 
 SEELEY W. MUDD 
 
 and 
 
 GEORGE I. COCBRAN MEYER ELSASSER 
 
 DR.JOHNR. HAYNES WILLIAM L. HONNOLD 
 
 JAMES R. MARTIN MRS. JOSEPH F. SARTORI 
 
 to Iht 
 
 UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA 
 
 SOUTHERN BRANCH
 
 i.mr-/.^j\' •..;•^•..•:•^.■•i■^t'•ii"^ 
 
 ••• 1, • • • ;*• .", :• : » • : . 
 
 SCOTLAND 
 
 ILLUSTRATED 
 
 IN A 
 
 SEUIES OF VIEWS TAKEN EXPRESSLY FOR THIS WORK 
 
 BY 
 
 MESSRS. T. ALLOM, W. H. BARTLETT, AND H. M'CULLOCH. 
 
 BY 
 
 WILLIAM BEATTIE, M.D. 
 
 GRAD. OF THE UNIV. OF EDIN. ; MEMB. OF THE ROVAL COLL. OF PHYS, LONDON: 
 
 OF THE HISTOR. INSTITUTE OF FRANCE ; 
 
 AUTHOR OF " SWITZERLAND," " THE WALDENvSES," " A RESIDENCE IN GERMANY," ETC. 
 
 •' Scotland, one and aU, 
 Scotdi plaids, Scotch snoods ; the blue hills and clear streams ; 
 The Dee, the Don ; Balgounie's Brig's black wall." — Byron. 
 
 *' The North Countriej 
 A nation famed for Snng and Beauty's charms ; 
 Zealous, yet modest ; innocent, though free ; 
 Patient of toil ; serene amidst alarms ; 
 Inflexible in faith ; invincible in arms." — Beattie's Minstrel. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 GEORGE VIRTUE, 26, IVY LANE, PATERNOSTER ROW. 
 
 MDCCC XXXVIII. 
 
 81544
 
 LONDON : 
 R. CLAV, PRINTER, BREAD-STREET-HILL.
 
 SCOTLAND. 
 
 *' Land of brown hcatli and shaggy wood — 
 Land of the niovintain and the flood 1" 
 
 " 'Twas here the Son of Fingal towered along, 
 
 And midst his mountains roiled the flood of song ; 
 'Twas here the heroes of tiiat song arose, 
 And Roman Eagles found unvanquished foes." 
 
 PERTHSHIRE. 
 
 The county of Perth, one of the largest in Scotland, is proverbial as the 
 favoured province in which Nature has been prodigal of her gifts. The Highlands 
 of Perthshire,* with their fabled lakes and rivers, and woods and fountains — their 
 feudal and monastic ruins — their popular legends and traditions— present a field 
 peculiarly rich in all that can charm the eye, improve the mind, or flatter the 
 imagination. In proof of these attractions, it is only necessary to advert to 
 the numerous strangers, from every nation in Europe, who are annually attracted 
 to these regions of " fell and flood," where the magnificence of Nature and the 
 primitive simplicity of the inhabitants offer the most pleasing contrasts, and 
 
 • At the commencement of the second volume of this work, it tte proper to remind the reader, that, owing 
 tu the limited number of pages to whicli the Author is restricted, various topics of inferior interest must 
 be omitted, others only slightly alluded to, in order that the connexion between the text and illustrations 
 may not be interrupted, but mutually serve to explain each other. The Painter, in illustrating the scenery 
 of the Highlands, has been careful in the selection of his subjects, so as to present a faithful transcript of 
 that stupendous scenery with which the glory of the Gael is identified, whilst the Author has made it his 
 study to frame his narrative according to the scenes through which he moves, and the historical sugges- 
 tions to which they give rise. 
 
 VOL. II. B
 
 g SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 unfold those interesting sources from which poetry has drawn many of her 
 widest themes, and historj' some of her noblest achievements. 
 
 With the bold chain of the Grampians swelling in lofty gradation before us ; the 
 dark lakes gleaming in tlie distance ; and the Forth rolling its fantastic meanders 
 at our feet ; herds in the valley, and flocks on the hill ; immemorial forests, 
 casting their broad shadow along the mountain sides ; and crumbling rocks, that 
 could once arrest an army in its march — all proclaim that sacred frontier from 
 which the Roman legions recoiled like " waves from the rock," and where 
 Freedom looked proudly down from her hills, as from an impregnable citadel. 
 But whatever the lavish hand of nature may have bestowed on these native 
 bulwarks — whether she has enriched them with precious ore, girdled them with 
 forests, or rendered them subservient to pasture or the plough — their great charm 
 and patriotic boast is, that they are peopled by a race who never yielded to a 
 foreign yoke, nor pledged their fealty to a stranger. If they have suffered 
 the calamities of war, these calamities have been the results of internal didsion, 
 never of conquest. The first altars raised to Liberty VFere in tlie glens and 
 mountains before us ; and there— so long as the name continues to influence 
 the human conduct and warm the heart — these altars will be found. Like the 
 Swiss cantons, the Highland clans, wherever united, have been invincible ; 
 but between the two people there is this distinction : — the latter never 
 " surrendered " their liberty; the former " recovered " it when lost. The Swiss 
 expelled their oppressors, but not till after they had been enslaved; but the 
 Celts, by repulsing them at the frontier, preserved their independence from 
 pollution, and thus vindicated their pretensions as an unconquered people. 
 
 But, without following up the parallel to the extent to which it might be 
 carried, we return to the more express objects in view, and prosecute our 
 journev to the Trosachs — those haunted localities which the poetry and romance 
 of our own times have invested with peculiar charms. 
 
 " For there — on every wild and wondrous scene, 
 The Wizard's niany-coloureilouclihath been." 
 
 Continuing to ascend the valley of the Forth, the road passes the mansion 
 of Craig Forth, crosses the river about two miles above Stirling, at tlie 
 Bridge of Drip, and then winds for several miles through a tract of country 
 which, within the last sixty years, the labour and ingenuity of man have 
 converted from a dreary waste into a fertile garden. The Moss of Kincardine, 
 the original name of this subdued waste, has undergone a thorough metamor- 
 phosis — a healthy population have displaced the heath-fowl and the bittern :
 
 MOSS OF KINCARDINE. — LORD KAIMES. ii 
 
 com fields and cottage gardens Lave overspread the once pestilential marsh, 
 and fruit trees and flowers the dark heath and furze, " unprofitably gay." 
 It is one of those scenes which every philanthropic mind delights to contem- 
 plate, as affording the most gratifying testimony to the capabilities of man, 
 when skilfully applied and perseveringly directed. This pleasing transformation 
 was effected by the enlightened and patriotic Lord Kaimes, to whose exemplary 
 labours we have already adverted in a former page.* 
 
 For the space of four miles above StirUng, the valley continues nearly two 
 miles in breadth, but gradually expands as we ascend. On the north it is 
 bounded by rising grounds, presenting scenes of wood and cultivation. The hills 
 in front are green and pastoral, but in the back-ground the lofty summits of 
 Benlomond, Benledi, and Benmore, rise in majestic dignity upon the scene, 
 and recall to the tourist's mind no inadequate idea of the Bernese Oberland. 
 The points of resemblance are particularly striking when they are crested with 
 snow; and on those who have not witnessed the Alps of Switzerland, these 
 Celtic mountains cannot fail to make a lasting impression. 
 
 Blair-Drummondjf seat of the late Heniy Home, Lord Kaimes, enbosomed in 
 rich woodland scenery, and the church of Kincardine, with its Gothic architecture, 
 — both pleasingly associated with the surrounding landscape — are the principal 
 objects that mai'k the road as it winds into the vale of the Teith, where the fresh 
 verdure, undulating surface, and wooded acclivities, present the most beautiful 
 varieties of Highland landscape. The course of the Teith is fringed by luxuriant 
 woods, through which, at intervals, the flashing of the stream and the gentle 
 murmur of its waters exert a pleasing influence on the eye and ear, as we advance 
 through scenery which fuUj' vindicates to itself the epithet of Arcadian. 
 
 * About sixty years ago, tlie late Lord Kaimes became proprietor of one thousand five hundred acres of 
 the Moss, which, to his shrewd intellect, appeared readily reclaimable from its then unprofitable condition. 
 At an average depth of seven feet below the surface of the moss (tourbiire) a substratum of rich coarse 
 clay, with a thin covermg of vegetable mould, held forth tlie prospect of a most inviting return for the 
 expense of disencumbering it ; and as the Kaimes possession extended from the Forth to the Teith, which 
 flows along the north side of the valley, a large wheel was erected to lift water from the latter stream, for 
 the purpose of floating the moss by means of drains cut in tlie clay into the Forth. Portions of the moss 
 were then let to tenants in lots of eight acres, on leases of " three nineteen years'* — without rent the first 
 nineteen ; twelve shillings for each acre brought into culture the second nineteen years ; and so increasino- 
 till towards the close of the lease they came to pay a guinea per acre. About two hundred families are now 
 settled on this portion of the Moss, who live in neat houses, disposed in regular lanes, and equidistant from 
 each other. At the expiration of the leases, a rental of nearly £5000 per annum will be the fruit of this 
 judicious improvement. — See Statist. Ace. 
 
 t " And Blair, half hid in sylvan shade. 
 
 Where Taste and Home delighted strayed; 
 
 What time when Lear and Genins fled, frae bar and town, 
 
 To ' Teith's' clear stream, that babbling played by ' Castle- Doune." "— Macneill.
 
 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 The chief object deserving of exclusive notice in tliis route, is the Castle of 
 DouNE— the theatre of several important deeds, and the theme of more than 
 one pathetic ballad. It overhangs the point of a narrow green promontory, 
 with the Teith rolling at its base on one side, and the mountain torrent of 
 Ardoch descending with its tribute from the other. According to tradition, 
 it claims for its founder the unfortunate Murdocli,* duke of Albanj', whose 
 fate we have already noticed; but it is evidently of much earUer date, and 
 belongs to the fii-st-rate order of Scottish fortresses. At one end of the front, 
 a spacious square tower rises to the height of eighty feet, succeeded by another 
 of inferior dimensions fi.-om behind the opposite extremity. The great hall, 
 or state chamber between the towers, is seventy feet long, and that in the great 
 tower, forty-five by thirty feet. Tlie kitchen fire-place alone seems of suSicient 
 capacity to have accommodated with warmth and viands a full host of retainers. 
 The whole structure, surrounded by a back wall forty feet high, forms an ample 
 quadrangle of massive architecture. 
 
 In the reign of James V., Sir James Stewart of Beath, ancestor of the Moray 
 family, was appointed constable of the Castle ; and his son obtained a charter, 
 under the great seal, of certain lands to be called the barony of Doune. In 
 the succeeding reign, it served as a retreat for the loyalists of tliat unhappy 
 period. The demesnes of the castle having been erected into a barony prior 
 to the abolition of hereditary jurisdiction in the year 1748, courts of law were 
 held in it; but, happily for the Scottish peasantiy, these " hereditary and 
 exclusive privileges" were thenceforth solemnly transferred to the executive 
 government of the country. Queen Margaret,! and her unfortunate grand- 
 daughter Mary, are said to have frequently resided here. 
 
 In 1745 this fortress was held by Mac Gregor of Gleng3'le, a nephew of Rob 
 
 * JIurdoch was son of Robert, (son of Robert II.) who was created earl of Monteath in ISTO, 
 and eighteen years later, duke of Albany. In 1406, he succeeded his brother, Robert III., and reigned 
 fifteen years. In 1401, Murdoch was taken prisoner by the English at the battle of Homildon, and detained 
 till exchanged for Percy, ten years after. In September 1420, he succeeded his father, but being unfit to 
 hold the reins of government, he was obliged to resign in four years. His resignation was suddenly 
 followed by a charge of high treason, in consequence of which, himself, his two sons, and his father-in-law, 
 Duncan, earl of Lenox, were seized, carried to Stirling, and there beheaded, as already mentioned ; 
 Isabella, Murdoch's unhappy wife, being carried from Doune to the Castle of Tamtallan, the heads of her 
 father, her husband, and her two sons, were inhumanly sent to her in prison, to try if in the agony of grief 
 she would reveal the supposed treason ; but her answer was noble and elevated. — " If," said she, " the 
 crimes wherewith they were charged be true, then hath the king done justly, and according to law." 
 
 t The dowager Queen Margaret, daughter of Henry VII., married in 1528 Henry Lord Methven, 
 descendant of Murdoch, already mentioned ; and by consent of her son, James V., and her husband, 
 granted to James Stuart, bis younger brother, and ancestor of the Moray family, the custody of the Castle 
 of Doune, which formed part of the settlement made on her marriage with James IV.
 
 ESCAPE FROM DOUNE CASTLE. O 
 
 Roy, who had raised two hundred men for the service of Prince Charles Stuart, 
 and here supported his authority, and claims, till after the victory of Falkirk, 
 when the prisoners taken on that occasion were disposed of in a large, ghastly 
 room, in the highest part of the castle, near the battlements. Of this number 
 was Home, the author of " Douglas," and historian of the Rebellion, who records 
 the following circumstances: — To guard the prisoners there was a party of about 
 twenty Highlanders : a sentinel, who stood two or three paces from the door of 
 the room, allowed any of the prisoners, who chose, to take air on the battlements. 
 One of them, availing himself of this privilege, made his way to the place where 
 the soldiers and other prisoners were confined ; but as there was not one oflScer 
 with them, he returned the way he went, and told his companions their scheme 
 of making their escape by force was at an end. It was then proposed that they 
 should make a rope of the blankets they had, by which they might descend 
 from the battlements to the ground — a depth of seventy feet, but where there 
 was no sentinel. The proposal was agreed to ; and to prevent suspicion of 
 their design, some of the " volunteers" always kept company with the other 
 persons in the great room, which was common to all, whilst the rest of them, 
 barring the door of their cell, were at work till they had finished the rope, of 
 which they resolved to make trial the very night it was completed. The two 
 officers then claimed it as their right to be the first that should hazard them- _ 
 selves by proving the strength of the rope. But that claim was objected to, 
 and all drew lots, so as to settle the order in which they should descend. 
 This done, the captain showed No. 1 — the lieutenant No. 2. 
 
 "NVlien every thing was adjusted, they went up to the battlements, fastened 
 the rope, and about one o'clock, in a moonlight night, began to descend. The two 
 officers, Robert Douglas and another, got down very well ; but with the fifth, 
 who was tall and bulky, the rope broke just as his feet reached the ground. 
 The lieutenant now called to the next in the order of descent — an Englishman 
 of the name of Barrow — not to attempt it, as twenty or thirty feet were broken 
 ofiT from the rope. Nevertheless, putting himself on the rope, he slid down as 
 far as it lasted, and then let go his hold. His friend Douglas, and the lieutenant, 
 as soon as' they saw him on the rope, placed themselves under him, so as to 
 break his fall ; but descending from so great a height, he brought them both 
 to the ground, dislocated one of his ankles, and broke several of his ribs. In 
 this extremity the lieutenant raised him from the ground, and taking him on 
 liis back, carried him towards the road which led to AUoa. When unable to 
 proceed further with his burden, two others of the company, by holding each 
 one of Mr. Barrow's arms, helped him " to hop along upon one leg ;" but thinking 
 
 VOL. II. C
 
 b SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 that at this slow rate they would certainly be overtaken, they resolved to call 
 at the first house in their way, and that happening to belong to a friend, a 
 horse was procured, and having reached the sea, they were received on board 
 the Vulture sloop of war. 
 
 But to return to the castle. "When Niel Mac Vicar had drawn the last num- 
 ber, and while standing on the parapet had seen the disaster of his friends, he 
 carried the rope to his cell, where he substantially repaired and lengthened 
 it with shreds of blankets. This done, he returned to the battlements, and there 
 again fastening it, commenced his descent. But when he reached that part 
 where the fracture had taken place, and which he had endeavoured to secure 
 by adding greatly to its thickness, he found it beyond his grasp, and falling 
 from the same height that Mr. Barrow had done, but with no one to break 
 his faU, he was so seriously injured that he languished and died soon afterwards 
 at the house of his father, a clergyman in the isle of Isla. 
 
 Since the publication of " Waverley," the Castle of Doune has enjoyed much 
 additional celebrity, as the fortress to which the English hero wjis conveyed by 
 his Highland captors, and which the classic author of the novel has so vividly 
 depicted. The village of Doune is gradually rising into some degree of local 
 importance. A church, and many new houses have been recently added, and cotton 
 manufactures established near the bridge — the latter a very pleasing substitute 
 for that of Highland pistols,* for which the village was originally famous. 
 
 Camb US-Wall ace, the ancient seat of the Edmonstones, and now that of Lord 
 Doune, eldest son of the earl of Moray, to whom the barony belongs, is in the 
 immediate vicinity. In his march from the Highlands, the " Chevalier" took 
 a cup of welcome, presented by a fair adherent, at its gate. 
 
 Dunblane, though not immediately in our route, is too important to be passed 
 over in silence, and will amply repay the tourist, who, in pursuit of health or 
 amusement, makes a short sojourn in this much frequented neighbourhood. 
 For its recent celebrit}', Dunblane is chiefly indebted to its mineral spring, 
 which, for several years past, has enjoyed high reputation for its medicinal 
 qualities. But, of itself, the scenery is so beautiful, and so rich in historical 
 associations, as to present no ordinary attraction to the summer tourist, " who 
 looks on Nature with a poet's eye." 
 
 • While the ancient dress was in use, there was a great demand for Doune pistols, presents of which 
 were frequently sent by the nobility to foreign princes. The art was first introduced here about two 
 centuries ago, by Thomas Cadell, who was considered the first pistol-maker in Britain. Among the 
 national songs to which this district owes so many pleasing associations, we need only quote " The banks 
 and braes o' bonny Doune ;" " The bonny Earl of Moray," S:c.
 
 DUNBLANE. — BATTLE OF SHERIFF-AIUIR. 7 
 
 The village is pleasantly situated on the classic river Allan — a tributary of 
 the Forth — and remarkable for its ancient cathedral, erected by the pious king 
 David about the middle of the twelfth century.* Though greatly dilapidated 
 by time and fanaticism, enough of its ancient style and proportions remain to 
 vindicate its claim as one of the finest consecrated structures of its age. 
 
 A cell of Culdees existed here long before the erection of the place into a 
 bishop's see, and continued to flourish for several centuries. St. Blaan, from 
 vv'hom the modern name is derived, was superior of the convent during- the reign 
 of Kenneth in 982. Some remains of the episcopal residence are still visible. 
 The last bishop of Dunblane was Robert Leighton, consecrated in 1662, and, 
 seven years later, translated to the archiepiscopal see of Glasgow. His history, 
 so intimately connected with that of his times, is too well known to our readers 
 to require more than the mere allusion to the subject. Besides his daily 
 charities to the poor, this pious and learned prelate settled a fund for some 
 beneficent purpose, or some public work, in all the places where he had influence 
 or charge ; and by his last will bequeathed to the clergy of the diocese of 
 Dunblane his valuable library, with funds for its support. This generous 
 bequest has subsequently received many additions, and forms now a collection 
 of great value and permanent advantage to the place and neighbourhood. 
 
 At the foot of the Ochil Hills, the fine pastoral chain that divides this and 
 the adjacent county on the east, is the scene of another sanguinary engagement 
 — the battle of Sheriff-Muir. It was fought in November 1715, between the 
 insurgents commanded by the earl of Marr, and the royal army under the duke 
 of Argyll, and, in history, is occasionally distinguished as the battle of Dunblane. 
 On the evening before the battle, the insurgent forces occupied the same station 
 at Ardoch — now the most perfect of the Roman, .stations in Scotland — which 
 Agricola did in the third year of his expeditions. 
 
 On the fatal morning in question, the right of the royal army and the left 
 of the rebels having advanced to within pistol-shot, at their first interview, 
 were instantly engaged. The Highlanders began the action with all their 
 accustomed ardour, and their fire was little, if at all, inferior to that of the best 
 disciplined troops. f But Colonel Cathcart, being ordered to stretch to the right 
 and take them on the flank — a movement which he executed in the most gallant 
 
 • In Strathern, a short distance from Dunblane, are the ruins of Incliaffray Abbey, founded in 1200. 
 
 t Ronald M'Donald, captain of Clan Ronald, was killed at the first fire; but Glengarry, who succeeded 
 him as leader-in-chief, started from the lines, waved his bonnet in the air, and shouting revenge, so animated 
 the men, that they followed him to the muzzles of the muskets, pushed aside the bayonets with their 
 targets, and spread terror and havoc with their claymores.
 
 8 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 manner — gave a decisive turn to the contest on that part of the field, while 
 General Witham, with three battalions of foot, rapidly advanced to the support 
 of the Duke, who was now pursuing the advantage so suddenly obtained by 
 the first manoeuvre. The Highlanders, though compelled to retreat, retreated 
 like the Parthians. They harassed their pursuers — rallied so frequently, and 
 repulsed the royal troops with such obstinacy, that in three hours they were 
 not three miles from the first point of attack. But, to all appearance, they 
 were completely broken, and the duke resolved to continue the pursuit as long 
 as the light would serve. He was suddenly recalled, however, by the circum- 
 stance of there being no appearance of the division of his army under Witham, 
 while a large body of the rebels were strongly posted behind him. Witham's 
 division, while advancing, had fallen in with a body of Marr's foot, concealed in a 
 hollow way full in front, while a squadron of horse stood ready to charge them in 
 flank. In this situation they were attacked by the Braidalbane men, supported 
 by the Clans, a great number of them cut to pieces, and the remainder driven 
 in among their own cavalry, who were thus thrown into confusion. Had the 
 rebel squadron on the right fallen in at the same time, that portion of the royal 
 army had been entirely cut, off.* This neglect on the part of the insurgents 
 decided the day. The broken battalions were brought off with comparatively 
 little loss, but, unable to join the other part of the army under Argyll, or 
 to keep the field against the superior strength of the rebels, they retired 
 towards Dunblane, thence to Corntown, and at the end of the long causewayf 
 that communicates with Stirling bridge, took their station to defend the pass. 
 Had the rebels pursued them, Stirling itself would probably have received the 
 former as victors. 
 
 The battle of Sheriff-Muir reflected little credit upon the skill and experience 
 of the commanders on either side ; but, although in itself as indecisive as any 
 action on record, it was followed, nevertheless, by consequences which are 
 supposed only to attend the most signal victories, and, in the language of the 
 day, " broke the heart of the rebellion." Both armies claimed the honour 
 of a triumph, from the fact that the right wing of each had been victorious.^ 
 
 • " A Highlander, stung with indignation at the inactivity of liis general, could not help exclaiming at 
 the moment, ' Oh ^ fur one hour of Dundee 1* — conceiving, no doubt, that the hero of Killiecranky would 
 have shown very different generalship on such an occasion." — Chamb^-s* Hist. 
 
 t Supposed to he the Roman military way, and continuation of that formerly traced through Camelon. 
 
 X in allusion to this, many of our readers will remember the popular song — 
 
 " Some say that we wan, and some say that they wan ; 
 
 And some say that nane wan at a', man." — Jacobite Relics.
 
 DUNBLANE MINERAL SPRING. — CALLENDER. 9 
 
 The rebel army lost, on this melancholy occasion, the earl of Strathmore, 
 Clanronald, and several persons of distinction. Panmure, and Drummond of 
 Logic were among the wounded. Among the causes which the insurgent 
 leaders assigned as an apology for their indecision, was the conduct of Rob Roy,* 
 who, in the absence of his brother, commanded the M'Gregors, and on the 
 day of battle kept aloof, waiting only for an opportunity to plunder. 
 
 The mineral spring, already noticed, is about two miles from the village of 
 Dunblane, and was discovered about twenty years ago, by its having become 
 the resort of pigeons, which flocked round the small pools formed by the water 
 in its descent. It issues from two springs of various strength,f and, in its 
 medicinal qualities, which are found highly ser\iceable in general debility 
 and dyspeptic cases, resembles the celebrated Pitkaithly. The climate of the 
 place is mild and salubrious, and the district well sheltered by surrounding 
 mountains. The scenery will recall the popular ballad, long known to all 
 lovers of Scottish song, the " Flower o' Dunblane." 
 
 Resuming our route through the vale of the Teith, we advance through a 
 pastoral district of sloping uplands and waving woods, with here and there fea- 
 tures of the olden time and modern improvement rising in contrast before us. Of 
 these, Lanrick Castle and Cambusmore — the former, the residence of the Baronet 
 M'Gregor, and the latter, of John Buchanan, Esq., are princely seats, and in 
 fine keeping with the scenery. Callender, the " Capital of the Trosachs," which 
 has risen into importance in consequence of the celebrity conferred on the district 
 by the genius of Scott, consists chiefly of a long row of houses flanking the road 
 right and left — all slated and white-washed, and having the door and window- 
 sashes painted green. It contains a neat church and school-house, and a large 
 commodious inn. On the north the horizon is bounded by an imposing rampart 
 of hills, sprinkled with trees, and presenting a bold, perpendicular front. 
 
 Bracklin Bridge, about twenty minutes' walk from the village, and the scene 
 of the accompanying illustration, is one of the most remarkable of its kind. 
 The cascade, " Bracklin's thundering wave," consists of a series of minor falls, 
 shelving rapids, and dark linns, formed by the torrent-stream of the Keltie, 
 in its progress through a low, rugged chasm, dashing down a succession of 
 horizontal ledges of rock, about fifty feet in height. In former times it was 
 considered a trial of some skill and fortitude to pass this torrent by a narrow, 
 
 • Life of John, Duke of Argyll, p. 205. Struthers. History of the Rebellion, by Rae. Chambers. 
 
 t The ingredients in a pint of the water, are ;— Muriate of soda, twenty-four grains; muriate of lime, 
 eighteen grains: sulphate of lime, three grains and a half; carbonate of lime, half a gram ; with slight 
 indications of iron. 
 
 VOL ir. D
 
 10 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 alpine bridge — a tree thrown across the chasm ; but this terror, though partly 
 dissipated by the addition of a hand-rail, is still a giddy enterprise ; and when 
 the torrent is full, the scene is one that cannot but awaken something like the 
 " sublimity of fear." 
 
 The plain of Bochastle, through which the river continues its serpentine course, 
 is richly cultivated, finely sheltered with wood, and interspersed with cottages 
 and villas, v/hich afford pleasing evidence of the improved taste and increasing 
 prosperity of the country. On the Dun, the remains of three mounds and 
 ditches point out to the antiquary an interesting field of speculation. On either 
 side of this eminence is a straight, artificial bank of earth, supposed to have been 
 used in the practice of archery. To the westward, rising between the Teith 
 and its mountain tributary the Lubnaig, Benledi takes possession of the scene. 
 This gigantic landmark is upwards of three thousand feet in height ; and in 
 its Celtic name, Benledi, or the " Hill of God," recalls the ancient religious 
 ceremonies observed on its summit. Here, as tradition reports, the people 
 were accustomed to assemble during three successive days, annually, for the 
 worship of Baal, or the Sun. Near the top, an iron ring was discovered 
 towards the close of last century, attached by a staple to the rock, but for what 
 purpose — unless for securing the victims — remains a question still open for 
 discussion. Near this spot distinct traces of culture are still observable. On 
 the same mountain is a small lake, called Lochan-an-Corp, a name commemo- 
 rative of a melancholy catastrophe. While a funeral party from Glenfinlas 
 were crossing it when frozen over, the ice suddenly gave way, and the whole 
 company perished. It is an incident from which superstition derives fresh 
 evidence in support of her creed. 
 
 Within the memory of the present generation, certain practices used to be 
 observed in this neighbourhood, which would appear to be vestiges of druidical 
 rites. On Bel, or Baal-tain, the 1st of May, it was customary for the boj's 
 to meet and cut a circular trench in some verdant spot, and then light a fire 
 in the centre. At this fire, a sort of custard of eggs and milk was dressed, and 
 an oatmeal cake prepared. When the first of these was disposed of, the cake 
 was divided into pieces corresponding with the number of the guests ; and one bit 
 being blackened, the whole were thrown into a cap, from which each individual 
 drew one. He who had the misfortune to fall upon the black piece, was the 
 " victim" to be sacrificed to Baal, in order to propitiate his genial influence for 
 a productive season.* 
 
 * On All-Saints' eve, also, numerous bonfires were lighted, and the ashes of each collected into a 
 circular heap, in which a stone was put near the edge for every person in the hamlet ; and the individual
 
 SCENERY OF THE TROSACIIS. — LOCH-CATRINE 11 
 
 The mountain range, which forms the outskirts of the Highlands, runs for 
 several miles due west from Callender, and then verges to the south towards 
 Benlomond. The small lakes of Vennachar and Achray, into whicli are dis- 
 charged the waters from Loch-Catrine, lie on the outside of the Highland 
 boundary ; while the latter is encompassed by mountains through which a com- 
 munication has been formed, between Loch-Catrine and Loch-Achray, by some 
 great convulsion of nature — sweeping away the connecting link between Benan 
 and Benvenue, which, on either side, present lofty and inaccessible precipices. 
 The intermediate defile, knovra as the pass of the Trosachs, or " bristled 
 territory," is occupied by intricate gi-oups of rocky and wooded eminences. 
 On the south of Vennachar and Achray, the hills are covered with heather, and 
 fringed at their base with oak. " Coilantogle ford," where Roderick Dhu was 
 overcome by Fitz-James, is at the lower point of Loch- Vennachar. " Lanrick 
 Mead," the mustering-place of Clan Alpin, lies on the north side of the lake.* 
 
 Loch-Catrine, serpentine in form, and about ten miles long by two in breadth, 
 is encircled by high mountains. The narrow river which conducts its waters to 
 Loch-Achray, keeps the southern side of the intermediate isthmus, sweeping by 
 the precipitous flank of Benvenue. Between the river and Benan are various 
 abrupt rocky ridges, rising into summits of different character — some more or 
 less spiry ; others presenting elongated outlines. This labyrinth is tangled over 
 with a forest of oak, coppice, birch, and underwood, which also climb liigh up 
 the long and almost vertical side of Benan. Not many years ago Benvenue 
 could also boast a myriad of noble trees, which the extreme irregularity of its 
 shattered rocky sides threw into the most varied and effective groups.' — Byron 
 censured the excellent monks of St. Bernard for having hewn down the timber 
 from Clarens ; but the present was an act of greater sacrilege, inasmuch as 
 there was no similar apology for the axe. 
 
 Until the pubHcation of Dr. Robertson's " Statistical Account," in 1790, this 
 romantic district was comparatively unknown. Shut out from tlie rest of the 
 world by an almost impenetrable barrier of precipitous rocks, dark ravines, and 
 impervious forests, the bright waters of Loch-Catrine, and its romantic shores, had 
 
 whose stone-representative happened to be displaced by the following morning, was regarded as fey — that 
 is, one whose days were numbered, and might be expected to die within twelve months. These relics of 
 ancient superstition are always interesting, and often serve important ends in facilitating historical and 
 philosophical inquiry. — See Local Statist. 
 
 • For a minute account of this classic scenery, and the points that take a more prominent part in " The 
 Lady of the Lake," see "Chambers," " Graham's Sketches," and " Anderson's Guide to the Highlands" 
 — a work of great merit.
 
 12 
 
 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 slept for ages in tlieir native wilderness. But when the report spread, that within 
 this rugged girdle of rocks and chasms, a fairy-land was emhosomed — the charms 
 of which poetry itself could hardly exaggerate — curiosity was excited — taste and 
 genius were attracted to the spot, and the scene was found to justify the enthu- 
 siastic encomiums in which the writers had indulged. Native pride was flattered 
 by the arrival of strangers, who came to admire this new " el Dorado ;" and 
 the fame of the district was finally immortalized by the publication of the 
 " Lady of the Lake." A commodious road was constructed, and views which, 
 by climbing precipices and crossing ravines, the hunter, or hardy mountaineer, 
 had only ventured to indulge, were now rendered alike accessible to all. The 
 lake and its scenery — as disclosed from the precipice where they first burst 
 upon the eye of Fitz-James, in all the glory of an alpine sunset — are so 
 finely sketched in the poem, that we shall here give the extract in preference 
 to every other. 
 
 " The western waves of ebbing day 
 
 Rolled o'er the glen their level way ; 
 
 Each purple peak, each flinty spire, 
 
 Was bathed in flood of living fire.". . . . 
 " One burnished sheet of living gold, 
 
 Loch-Katrine lay beneath him rolled ; 
 
 In all her length, far-winding lay 
 
 With promontory, creek, and bay, 
 
 And islands that, empurpled bright, 
 
 Floated amid the livelier light ; 
 
 And mountains, that like giants stand. 
 
 To sentinel enchanted land. 
 
 High on the south bold Benvenue 
 
 Down to the lake in masses threw 
 
 Crags, knolls, and mounds, confus'dly hurled. 
 
 The fragments of an earlier world ; 
 
 A wildering forest feathered o'er 
 
 His ruined sides and summits hoar, 
 
 While on the north, through middle air, 
 
 Benan heaved high his forehead bare." — Lady of the take, Canto I. 
 
 Travellers who wish to see as much as they can of the wonders of Loch-Catrine 
 generally sail westward,* on the south side of the lake, to the rock and " Den of 
 the ghost," whose dark recesses the imagination of the natives conceived to be 
 the habitation of supernatural beings. f 
 
 • See Dr. Graham's Sketches of Perthshire. . 
 
 t A gentleman who possessed a farm immediately above the den, going home one evening at a late hour, 
 beheld, in passing through the haunted spot, a figure glide swiftly past him, and instantly drew his sword
 
 CLANS. — PASS OF LENT. — BALQUIDDAR. 15 
 
 The clans who inhabit the romantic regions in the neighbourhood of Loch- 
 Catrine, were, even until a late period, much addicted to predatory excursions 
 upon their Lowland neighbours. Those districts, situated beyond the Grampian 
 range, were rendered almost inaccessible by strong barriers of rocks, and 
 mountains, and lakes ; and, although a border countrj^, almost totally sequestered 
 from the world, and insulated with respect to society. Under such times and 
 circumstances, it was accounted not only lawful, but honourable, among hostile 
 tribes, to wage predatory warfare with one another ; and the habits of a rude 
 age were, no doubt, strengthened in this district by the circumstances mentioned, 
 and the fact that they bordered upon a country, the inhabitants of which, 
 though richer, were less warlike than they, and widelj' different in language and 
 manners.* In those days might was right, and the watchword — 
 
 "... They shall take who have the power, 
 And those may keep who can," 
 
 But, in order that a connexion between the text and the subjects chosen for 
 illustration may be preserved, our remaining notice of this district can only be 
 brief and desultory. Much beautiful scenery and much interesting history 
 must, consequently, be omitted ; but, while we select the more prominent fea- 
 tures in each department, we shall best enable the lover of Highland scenery to 
 form a correct notion of its character. The choice, however — where all 
 is beautiful, or picturesque, or sublime — is attended with no little difficulty ; 
 particularly where the artist, as in the drawings before us, has made it his 
 study to combine an air of striking novelty witli a perfect resemblance to 
 nature. 
 
 The usual conclusion to a survey of the Trosachs is to cross over the hills 
 between Loch-Catrine and Loch-Lomond, embark on the latter, and then return 
 southward by Glasgow and the Clyde ; but reserving these as the subject of 
 a future portion of the tour, we continue our progress towards the valley of the 
 Tay. On leaving Callender, the road enters the pass of Leni, and skirts the 
 left bank of Loch-Lubnaig, a narrow sheet of water about five miles in length. 
 The scenery is bold and rugged ; the hills approach the water so closely as to 
 give the space it occupies the appearance of a deep ravine. On the east side 
 is the farm-house of Ardhullary, in which James Bruce secluded himself while 
 engaged in composing his travels in Abyssinia. 
 
 Passing onward, the Braes of Balquiddar — a theme well known in Scottish 
 song — rise in gentle acclivities on the left. The valley is chiefly occupied by 
 
 ♦ See Notes to the " Lady of tlie Lake ;" " Statistical Account."
 
 16 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 the small lakes of Doin and Voil. In the rhurchyard of Balquiddar is shown 
 the tombstone of the famous Rob Roy, who spent the last days of his life at 
 the upper end of Loch-Voil. His escape in crossing the river, as related in 
 the celebrated novel bearing his name, is said to have actually occurred, and in 
 the manner recorded. A party, headed by the duke of Montrose, having 
 succeeded in capturing him, he was fastened on the saddle behind Graham of 
 Gartnafuorach, who, unable to withstand the captive's remonstrances, slipped 
 the belt at a spot where the fragments of rock precluded the possibility of any 
 horseman being able to follow him. The arms on his tombstone are a fir crossed 
 by a sword, supporting a crown, denoting his relationship with the royal line 
 of Stuart. 
 
 Lochearn Head, where there is an excellent inn, is a favourite resting-place 
 for tourists, and the lake is surpassed by few in all the mingled characteristics of 
 Hio-hland scenery. It is a " miniature and model of scenery which might 
 well occupy ten times its space." At this point, all its peculiar beauties appear 
 as if condensed into a space, so circumscribed, as to place them immediately 
 before the eye. Its mountains rise in majestic simplicity to the sky, terminating 
 in bold, and various, and rocky outlines, enriched with precipices and masses 
 of protruding rock, with chasms and ravines, and the channels of innumerable 
 torrents, which pour from above, and, as they descend, become skirted with trees 
 till they lose themselves in the waters of the lake. 
 
 Loch-Tay, the next lake in our route, is about fifteen miles in length, by 
 one in breadth. Among the lofty chain of mountains by which it is encom- 
 passed on the north, Benlawers, the Colossus of Perthshire, presents an elevation 
 of more than four thousand feet. Killin, a small Highland village near the junc- 
 tion of the Lochy and Dochart, and embellished with two picturesque islets formed 
 by the river, is proverbial for its striking scenery. It is a perfect picture- 
 gallery of itself, says Dr. Macculloch,* since we cannot move three yards with- 
 out meeting a new landscape. In addition to its fame as an admirable station 
 for the artist, Killin is the reputed sepulchre of Fingal. 
 
 On the north side of the plain are the picturesque ruins of Finlarig Castle, 
 an ancient seat of the Braidalbane famil}', overgrown with ivy, and crown- 
 ing a broad, low mound with an avenue of stately sycamores, leading into 
 the park. Immediately adjoining this ancient herqeau, is the family burying- 
 vault. 
 
 Between Killin and Kenmore the scenery, throughout, is of a bold and 
 striking character ; and the tourist has the choice of two roads, skirting the 
 
 • See his detailed account.
 
 TAYMOUTII. — GLENLYON. 17 
 
 i-iglit and left banks of the lake, which assumes the appearance of a magnificent 
 river, winding gracefully between its mountain shores, all finely embellished \vith 
 woods, and enhvened with cottages or cultivated farms, which contrast well 
 with the wild landscape from which they have been reclaimed by the labour and 
 ingenuity of man. The village of Kenmore, occupying the slope of a small 
 peninsula at the lower extremity of the lake, is highly picturesque in situation 
 and appearance. Its cottages, festooned with sweet-brier, honeysuckle, and wild 
 roses — its white church spire rising in the centre — the lake sparkling above, 
 and mountains and forests extending their mingled shadows beyond, offer a 
 most inviting subject for the pencil. On the north is a handsome bridge of 
 several arches, spanning the " lordly Tay ;" and beyond, a small wooded island, 
 in which Sibylla, queen of Alexander I., hes interred. 
 
 The scenery of Taymouth — more particularly that portion which immediately 
 surrounds the castle — is of the richest description, and, to the traveller who 
 approaches it from the wilder districts of the north, appears like an Elysium 
 reposing in the lap of horror. 
 
 " Hie secura quies, et nescia fallere vita. 
 Dives opum variarum ; hie latis otia fundls. 
 Speluncrc, vivique iacus ; hie frigida Tempe, 
 j\Iugitusque bourn, nioUesque sub arbore somni.*' 
 
 The view from the vista-fort in the face of the hill, and directly fronting the 
 castle, is universally admired. In the centre of the landscape, the lake opens 
 on the spectator ; on the left, two long mountain slopes, partly wooded, rise in 
 successive stages from the water ; to the right, Drummond Hill displays 
 its flanks, surging downwards with undulating forests ; the gigantic summit of 
 Benlawers towers up from behind ; and at the extremity of the range rises the 
 cone of lofty Benmore. On the fore-ground, the village, bridge, lake, and island, 
 are seen beautifully grouped, and thus complete one of the finest landscapes 
 in the United Kingdom.* 
 
 Glenlyon, remarkable for its scenery, and no less for its traditions, will 
 amply recompense the tourist, who has time and inclination to explore its 
 recesses ; and for this a single morning wUl suffice, as the more striking objects 
 
 • On the north side of the river is the Valley of Fortingal, in the churchyard of which is an enormous 
 yew-tree — much older than the famous linden of Fribourg. About a century ago, the trunk was single, 
 and measured fifty-six feet in girth. It now consists of two stems, the largest of which is quite hollow, 
 and measures thirty- two feet. This is a vegetable production which may vie with the famous Sicilian 
 chestnut di cento caviilli. 
 
 VOL. II. F
 
 18 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 lie within the compass of a few miles. This glen holds a distinguished place in 
 the native songs and superstitions of Braidalbane — 
 
 " Somnia, terrores magicos, miracula, sagas, 
 Nocturnos lemures, portentaque Thessala rides ?" — 
 
 This is the principal seat of the marquess of Braidalbane, whose family posses- 
 sions occupy a tract of seventy miles in length. The castle is a magnificent 
 specimen of modern architecture ; and, surrounded by a park stocked with deer, 
 and embellished in the richest style of landscape gardening, forms a superb and 
 princely residence. 
 
 In following the right bank of the Tay, the most prominent object in the 
 route, after quitting Taymouth, is Menzies Castle, planted at the foot of a lofty 
 range of rocky hills, rising in successive grades like an amphitheatre, fortified 
 with precipices shaded wdth woods, and watered by mountain torrents. The 
 park is rich in ancient timber, and commands delicious vistas over the adjacent 
 country. Aberfeldy, so pleasingly associated with the charms of Scottish song, is 
 a village of the first class, and celebrated for its fine series of water-falls, in which 
 respect it is a miniature of the Swiss Meyringhen. In the deep " birchen 
 dell" of Moness, in which they occur, on either hand, rise high sloping banks, 
 with a rich garniture of trees ; where, soothed with the murmur of waters and 
 the melody of birds, the visitor may indulge a pleasing day's reverie. 
 
 " When simmer blinks on flowery braes, 
 And o'er the crystal streamlet plays ; 
 How sweet to spend the lightsome days 
 In the Birks of Aberfeldy !'' 
 
 Three mUes below Aberfeldy, GrandtuUy Castle — a domestic fortress of the 
 olden time, and stUl a habitable as well as hospitable mansion — is a prominent 
 object in the landscape. Logie-rait, at the confluence of the Tay and Tummel, 
 is rendered classical as the birthplace of Dr. Adam Ferguson ; but the scenery, 
 till we arrive in the precincts of Dunkeld, is comparatively tame. Here, 
 however, the aspect of nature is changed, and all that can fascinate the eye, 
 or feast the imagination, is lavished around with unlimited profusion. In 
 point of situation, and in all those natural and artificial accessories which 
 enter into the usual descriptions of an earthly paradise, Dunkeld has scarcely 
 a rival. Those who have once visited its enchanting scenery will leave it with 
 regret, and often long to renew the acquaintance. 
 
 " Hie manus ob patriam pugnando vulnera passi, — 
 Quique pii vates, et Plioebo digna locuti."
 
 DUNKELD CATHEDRAL. — BISHOPS. 19 
 
 The town is situate in a plain on tlie east bank of the river, embosomed in 
 richly wooded hills, to which the rugged face of Craigie-barns, on the north, 
 presents an ample and majestic screen. To the west, Cragvinean rears his 
 pine-clad shoulders ; and on the south rise detached circular hills, at the 
 base of which — 
 
 " Across the shire of valleys and of hills, 
 
 Braidalbane, and great Athol's dread domain, 
 Swoln by the tribute from a thousand rills, 
 The Scottish Tiber thunders to tlie plain." 
 
 Of the two principal streets, one opens on a handsome bridge of five arches 
 over the Tay, and at the west end of the other, stands the ancient cathedral, four- 
 score paces in length, in all its compartments of corresponding •dimensions, and on 
 a noble scale. Its architecture consists of the Norman, with that of every other 
 variety introduced into ecclesiastical structures, during the three subsequent 
 periods of the Gothic style.* " Wanting only the roof, it wants nothing as a 
 ruin." The choir, now converted into the parish church, was restored on the 
 original model, and at a great expense, by the duke of Athol. Thus, while certain 
 preservation has been gained to the whole structure, nothing has been lost of 
 the original design ; and the cathedral will now continue a venerable monument 
 of ancestral piety, and of times when Dunkeld was the seat of primacy in Scotland, 
 and " capital of ancient Caledonia." Among the episcopal worthies, the name 
 of Gravin Douglas throws a hallowing lustre over the darker features of his 
 day. William Sinclair, of a different temperament, was as much the champion 
 of his country's liberty as the former was of its literature. His spirit was 
 worthy of the age of Wallace, and formed to be the companion of the best patriots 
 of his country. On one occasion, when a party of Edward the Second's troops 
 had made a hostile inroad upon the coast of Fife, Sinclair — like the famous 
 Matthew Schimmir, the warlike bishop of Sion — overtook the invaders in the 
 midst of their plundering expedition, near Aberdour, and, with the assistance of 
 only threescore retainers, expelled the intruders at the point of the sword. 
 
 Among tlie few sepulchral antiquities, the most remarkable is a statue in 
 armour, with a lion's head at the feet, representing the ferocious " Wolf of 
 Badenoch," Alister, son of Robert II. who burnt Elgin cathedral, and became 
 otherwise notorious by his sanguinary disposition, f 
 
 * Here, it is said, while the site of the cathedral was consecrated as a cell of Culdees, Kenneth Macalpin 
 deposited the bones of St. Coluraba. As a consecrated spot antiquaries trace its history to the remote 
 reign of Constantine, in the early part of the eighth century. 
 
 T Hie jacet Alex'. Seneschallus . filius Rnberii regis Sector: et Elizabethae More . Dominus de . 
 Buchan . et Badenoch . qui obiit ad. 1391,
 
 20 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Were we to quote the testimony of authors who have written on Scotland, 
 we might here adduce many pages in praise of Dunkeld alone* — a topic in which 
 all tastes seem to harmonise, and where one of the most graphic modern 
 writers found ample materials for the composition of an interesting volume. 
 But our own remarks must be few ; and, however fascinating the subject, our 
 limited space must plead our excuse for numerous omissions. The pleasure- 
 grounds surrounding the ducal palace of Dunkeld — which will shortly be 
 replaced by a magnificent new family mansion — are kept up with great nicety. 
 The walks are upwards of fifty miles, independently of a carriage-drive of 
 thirty. f These present every possible variety of picturesque scenery, and in 
 their extent, and constant transition from one style of landscape to another, 
 are equalled by no demesne in Great Britain. The greatest curiosity, however, 
 is the cascade of the Bran. A hermitage, called Ossian's Hall, forty feet 
 above the basin of the cascade, and directly in front, is so constructed, that the 
 stranger, on entering it, is brought suddenly in view of the fall, which — 
 multiplied a thousandfold by the mirror-glass with which the walls and 
 ceiling are covered — appears as if rushing upon him from every point. 
 The effect is altogether magical, and although too artificial, is well calculated 
 to strike the visitor with astonishment — the more so, as there is nothing in the 
 approach that leads him to anticipate such a scene ; for, while he is contem- 
 plating a fine painting of Ossian, which covers the door-way, the latter suddenly 
 spruigs open, and he is ushered into a fairy world, with the foaming cataract 
 full in his view. 
 
 Between Dunkeld and Perth, the painter will find many rich subjects for 
 his pencil ; and every admirer of that landscape in which fertility predominates, 
 and the sublime softens down into the picturesque, a source of uninterrupted 
 enjoyment. The heath-clad waste and frowning precipice are now succeeded 
 by a kindly soil under industrious cultivation. Birnam-wood, which every reader 
 of Shakspeare is prepared to contemplate with some degree of curiosity, is much 
 
 * " That scene which opens before you after going through the pass, has not, perhaps, its parallel in 
 Europe; and the grounds belonging to the duke, I do not hesitate to pronounce, are almost without a 
 rival." Such is the testimony of the traveller. Dr. E. Clark ; and, in confirmation, we cannot do better 
 than annex to it that of Mr. R. Chambers : — •* I may mention," says he, " after having seen almost all 
 the rest of Scotland, this place appeared to me, on visiting it, decidedly the finest throughout the whole 
 country." To this ihe present writer will add, that, after many excursions in the Alps, Switzerland, and 
 continental Europe, he recalls, with undiminished pleasure, the delightful impressions made upon his mind 
 by the scenery of Dunkeld. 
 
 t The pine and larch woods cover an extent of eleven thousand square acres — the number of trees 
 planted by the duke, twenty-seven millions, besides several millions of various kinds, (Anderson, p. 100.) 
 At the end of the cathedral the stranger is shown the first two larches introduced into this country. They 
 were at that time treated as green-house plants, but are now of gigantic proportions.
 
 PERTH. — THE TAY. — MONCllIEFF-HILL. 21 
 
 reduced in extent, and has never, as Pennant remarks, " recovered the march 
 of its ancestors to Dunsinnane." 
 
 Perth, the capital of the county, and once of the country, is the arena of 
 many historical events in which the fate of the kingdom has been involved — 
 many traits of national character and popular vicissitudes which arrest attention, 
 and conjure up a thousand reminiscences in the reflecting mind. 
 
 Surrounded by a rich amphitheatre of hills undulating along the horizon, 
 their summits covered with woods, their flanks sprinkled with cheerful country- 
 seats, and washed by the majestic Tay, Perth is a city of almost unrivalled attrac- 
 tions. Highly favoured by Nature, it became a place of great commercial 
 importance at the earliest period, and down to the present time has continued 
 to be one of the chief seats of national prosperity.* Its handsome bridge of 
 nine arches, its elegant quays and public buildings — of which the most interesting 
 are the celebrated Academy and Antiquarian Institution — the north and south 
 Inches — extensive public lawns stretching along the river, either of which would 
 form a Campus Martius — with numerous gardens and public walks, are all of 
 the most beautiful description, and worthy of its patriotic citizens. 
 
 As one of the first places in Scotland where Knox promulgated the doctrines 
 of the Reformation, — which here tcjok strong hold of the public mind, and 
 extended its influence in every direction — Perth possesses a double interest, 
 and recalls the most important epoch in the national history. It was, for some 
 time, the centre of that moral revolution which broke the fetters of ancient 
 superstition, emancipated the human mind from a despotism worse than 
 feudal bondage, and at length placed a new dynasty on the throne. 
 
 The view from MoncrieS'-hill is proverbially referred to as one of the most 
 beautiful in the kingdom. Pennant styles it " the glory of Scotland." From 
 this point, when the Roman legions came first in sight of Perth — the ancient 
 Bertha — and beheld the Tay, the exclamation of " Ecce TiberimJ" announced 
 
 • As the metropolis of ancient Caledonia and the residence of her kings — still pointed out in the palace 
 of Scone — Perth and its environs occupy no small share in the history of those times, before the seat of 
 royalty had been transferred to the more southern parts of the kingdom. As the Scottish nation extended its 
 authority by the conquest of the Picts, and its subsequent intermarriages with England, the royal residence, 
 keeping pace with the expanded limits of the sovereign, passed successively from Dunstaffiiage, Kildrunimy, 
 and Inverlochy, to Scone. Scone was exchanged in its turn for Falkland and Dunfermline— these for 
 Stirling— Stirling for Linlithgow, and this for Edinburgh, and lastly, Edinburgh for London. Amidst 
 these changes, after the establishment of the monarchy of all Scotland, tlie natural boundaries which marked 
 the land confined, on the whole, the choice of a place of residence for the royal family tn that space which is 
 bounded by the courses of the Forth and Tay, on the south and north j on the west, by the rising of the 
 country towards the middle of the island, and on the east by the ocean. During the hottest times of war 
 with England, the interposition of the Tay recommended Scone as the most secure court-residence. 
 VOL. II. G
 
 22 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 the surprise and pleasure with which they discovered a resemblance between the 
 two rivers. In the present day, however, the exclamation would not be com- 
 plimentary ; the Tay gains exceedingly by comparison with the ' yellow' 
 Tiber, which has scarcely the volume of one of the tributaries to the former, 
 unless when swollen by continued rains. In transparency, too, no less than in 
 volume, the Caledonian river has greatly the advantage. By a sudden inundation 
 of the Tay, in the reign of William the Lyon, the ancient city of Perth was 
 overthrown in a night. The royal palace shared the same calamity, and with 
 that, the king's infant son, the nurse, and fourteen other persons, perished. 
 
 The hill of KinnouU is a point of view much resorted to by strangers ; 
 while the antiquary and patriot find an interesting pilgrimage among the 
 " tumuli of Luncarty" — the celebrated battle-field of that name. This victory 
 obtained over the Danes, in 980, gave name and title to the noble family of 
 Hay.* The battle was decisive ; of the enemy, according to tradition, those 
 who escaped the sword were drowned in the river. A bleaching field and corn 
 lands now occupy the scene of battle. The classic reader will recall the spirited 
 lines of the poet Johnston on this subject.f At a short distance, on the 
 Almond, a tributary of the Tay, is the scene of the pathetic legend of " Bessy 
 Bell and Mary Gray," — a scene which, •independently of its associations, is 
 highy picturesque. It is in the demesne of Lord Lynedoch, a circumstance 
 which gives it an additional attraction to the patriotic tourist. J Pitkaithly, so 
 long a fashionable watering-place, is also in the immediate neighbourhood, 
 
 • For the interesting legend, the reader may consult the family history of Kinnoull, descendants of the 
 Scottish Cincinnatus, who, like his Roman prototype, left the plough to rout an army. Dupplin is also 
 the scene of a sanguinary conflict in 1333, by which, for a time, the cause of Bruce yielded to that of 
 
 Baliol. 
 
 \ " Quo ruitis, cives ? Heia ! hosti obvertite vultus! 
 
 Non pudet infami vertere terga fuga ? 
 Hostis ego vobis ; aut ferrum vertite in hostem. 
 
 Dixit, et armatus dux prsit ipse jugo. 
 Qua, qua ibat vastam condensa per agmina Danum 
 Dat stragem. Hinc omnis consequiturque fuga 
 Servavit cives. Victorem reppulit hostem, 
 Unus cum natis agminis instar erat. 
 Hie Decios agnosce tuos magnae oemula Romae, 
 Aut prior hac ; aut te his Scotia major adhuc." 
 X These voung ladies, according to the fondly cherished tradition, were celebrated for tlieir beauty, and 
 sincerely attached as friends. Their families had rank and property in the country, and lived on a 
 footing of mutual intimacy. In the plague of 1645, which committed dreadful havoc in the population of 
 this district, these young ladies, in the hope of avoiding infection by entire seclusion from society, retired to 
 a lonely spot, called the " Burn Bra;." Hither, however, they were traced by a young gentleman in the 
 neighbourhood, who had long entertained a romantic passion for both, but without being able to decide 
 which was the most beautiful. The consequences of this visit were fatal. Having himself caught the
 
 v
 
 SCONE. — ASSASSINATION OF JAMES I. 23 
 
 and equally famous for the efficacy of its spring, and the picturesque scenery 
 by which it is surrounded.* 
 
 Scone, with its numerous relics of antiquity, and long and intimate associa- 
 tions with royaltj-, has attractions peculiarly its own. The princely edifice 
 which now occupies the spot — long consecrated as the residence of kings, and 
 the sanctuary of religion — is an object of the first attention to every stranger. 
 Of its internal arrangements and decorations we cannot here enter into any 
 detail ; but may simply state that, after having visited the finest palaces in 
 Europe, we can still find much to please and interest us in that of Scone. 
 Its position, on a fine terrace, gives it an imposing aspect when seen from the 
 river. In the short space of seven years, the patriot Wallace, Edward I., and 
 Robert Bruce, were severally resident at Scone. In 1715 the Pretender found 
 it sufficient to accommodate a numerous suite, and filled its courts with the 
 splendour of royalty. Preparations, too, were making for his coronation, but 
 were interrupted by an unwelcome visit from a party of the Kng's horse. The 
 earl of Mansfield has added several recent embelUshments. 
 
 In the church of the abbey of Scone was preserved the famous sto7ie which 
 was said to have first served the patriarch Jacob for a pillow, and, afterwards 
 transported into Spain, was used as a seat of justice by Gothalus, a contem- 
 porary with Moses. From Spain it found its way to DunstaflTnage, and 
 there continued as the coronation-chair, till the reign of Kenneth II., who 
 removed it to Scone, where every Scottish sovereign was crowned upon it till 
 the year 1296, when Edward I. in order, it is said, to defeat an ancient 
 prophery,f had it removed to Westminster Abbey, where it now remains an 
 indispensable requisite in coronation ceremonies. 
 
 We now return to the historical recollections of Perth. Of these the more 
 prominent features are the tragic death of James I. and the Gowry Conspiracy, 
 which we shall briefly relate as they have been recorded by the best authorities. 
 
 Sensible how deficient his long imprisonment had made him in the knowledge 
 of real life, James I. was most anxious in his endeavours to render himself 
 
 disease, the unhappy youth communicated it to the lovely friends, who soon fell victims to its malignity. 
 They were buried in one grave, on the banks of the Almond ; the spot has been enclosed, and from its 
 romantic situation, and the nielanclioly circumstances of tlie story, is a favourite pilgrimage among lovers, 
 and the " poetical spirits" of the |)lace. 
 
 • This water is composed principally of muriate of soda and muriate of lime, with a slight trace of 
 sulphate and carbonate of lime. In an English pint of the water, it contains about thirty-five grains of 
 the different salts. The effects are similar to those already mentioned of the spring at Dunblane, 
 t " Ni fallat fatum, Scoti quocunque locatum 
 
 Invenient lapidem, regnare tenentur ibidem." 
 This prediction was supposed to have been verified when James VI. ascended the English throne.
 
 24 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 acquainted with the character, habits, and piu'suits of all classes of his people. 
 For this purpose he went often in disguise among them, visiting their fire- 
 sides, mingling in their sports, observing their wants, and redressing their 
 wrongs. He was thus enabled to dictate many excellent laws, for the security 
 of the subject and the encouragement of industry ; and, by conciliating the 
 affections of the people, seemed to have established his throne on a basis which 
 no private hostility could shake. The fate of James I., however, like that of 
 Henry IV. of France, and Gustavus of Sweden, furnishes a striking proof that 
 it is not in the height of his popularity that a prince has least to fear. 
 
 In the thirteenth year after his return to Scotland, a conspiracy was formed 
 against his life. At the head of that deadly faction, was Walter, earl of 
 Athol, one of the king's nearest kinsmen. The chief confederates were Robert 
 Stewart, the earl's grandson, and Sir Robert Graham, of Strathearn, to whom 
 James had given mortal offence by reannexing to the crown certain property 
 of which Graham had unlavs^fully possessed himself during the regency. 
 Unattended even by a body guard, and confiding in the love of his subjects, 
 the king was residing at this time within the sacred walls of the Carthusian 
 monastery, at Scone, which he had founded and endowed. Graham, who had 
 been for some time heading a band of outlaws in the adjacent mountains, 
 seized the occasion, and brought down a party by night to the neighbourhood 
 of the monastery. Seconded in this unhallowed purpose by accomplices, and 
 unsuspected or unobserved by all others, he quietly gained possession of the 
 outer gates, and finally of the interior passages. The first intimation which 
 the king received of his danger was from his cup-bearer, Walter Straton, 
 who, on leaving the chamber, in which the king and queen were at supper, 
 to bring some wine, was astonished to find the passage crowded with armed 
 strangers, who answered his cry of alarm by striking him dead on the spot. 
 The voice reached the roj'al chamber — a rush of the assassins followed ; and 
 Catharine Douglas, one of the queen's maids of honour, springing forward to 
 bolt the outer door of the apartment, found to her dismay that the bar had 
 been clandestinely removed. In this moment of surprise and consternation, 
 reckless of her own life, she thrust her feeble arm into the staple to supply 
 its place. But this noble intrepidity could not for a moment retard the san- 
 guinary band. The last firail barrier which heroic beauty could interpose, was 
 crushed in an instant; and, with no farther obstacle to check their purpose, 
 the ruffians with drawn swords, and ferocious impatience, rushed forward upon 
 the king. Patrick Dunbar, brother of the earl of March, was cut down while 
 nobly interposing liis sword and strength in defence of his sovereign. The
 
 RAID OF RUTHVEN. — COWRIE CONSPIRACY. 25 
 
 queen* threw herself between lier husband and the daggers of his assassins : 
 twice she received the wounds aimed at his person ; and it was not till she 
 was forcibly torn away, that the deed of blood was completed, and the sum 
 of James's woes filled up by an end as tragic as any recorded in history.f 
 
 As few travellers ever quit Perth without a visit to the site of Gowrie House 
 (for the building itself has given place to modern improvements), we annex an 
 abridged statement of the particulars of the inexplicable conspiracy under that 
 name, and to which the incident known in history as the " Raid of Ruthven," 
 may serve as preface. 
 
 James VI., then in his twelfth year, was no sooner released from the stern 
 control of Morton, than he surrendered himself to the guidance of the duke of 
 Lennox and the earl of Arran — two designing courtiers, who entangled theii- royal 
 ward in an unremitting round of amusements, while they themselves exercised 
 the regal authority in a way best calculated to advance their own sinister views. 
 To rescue the young sovereign from this degrading state of subserviency, the earl 
 of Gowrie, at the head of a party of nobles, entered into a secret combination ; 
 and, as the king was returning from stag-hunting in Athol, on his way to 
 Dunfermline, met and solicited him to honour the house of Ruthven with a visit. 
 This loyal invitation was complied with ; but the next day, when the royal visitor 
 offered to take leave, he was informed that he was the earl's prisoner. His surprise 
 and indignation, as natural at this tender age, were expressed in a paroxysm of 
 tears and bitter upbraidings. But, whilst the young king was observed weeping. 
 Sir Thomas Lyon boldly exclaimed — " Let the tears run — though we be sorry 
 for the cause — better that bairns greet than bearded men." 
 
 But the reign of this conspiracy was brief : although it had the good of the 
 country at heart, the party acted in a way little calculated to bring over the young 
 prince to a cordial approbation of the measures thus forcibly imposed upon him. 
 Themselves disciples of the reformed religion, they suffered its ministers to exer- 
 cise undue influence over them in matters pertaining to the civil administration 
 — to indulge in strains of vituperation, not only offensive to the king personally, 
 
 • The fair " Lady Jane," of whom he became enamoured, while a prisoner in the Castle of Windsor, 
 and who was afterwards the subject of the " King's Quair," — a poem which reflects the highest honour on 
 the poetical talent of this accomplished prince. 
 
 t jEneas Sylvius, afterwards Pope Eugene IV., who was legate in Scotland at the time of this 
 catastrophe, says, that he was at a loss which most to applaud, the universal grief which overspread the 
 nation on the death of the king, or the resentment to which it was roused, and the just vengeance wiih 
 which his inhuman murderers were pursued. Being all traced and dragged from their lurUing-places, 
 they were put to death by the most lingering tortures that human invention could suggi'st. Athol, after 
 suffering three days' torture, with a nd-hot coronet of iron, was beheaded, and his limbs exposed in the 
 chief cities in the kingdom. 
 
 VOL. II. 11
 
 26 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 but subversive of the most established attributes of sovereign authority. At 
 length, having contrived to escape out of the hands of his " dictators," James 
 placed himself once more under the direction of Arran, and issued a proclamation 
 declaring his recent detention an act of treason. On this charge Gowrie,* as the 
 principal concerned, vpas tried, condemned, and executed for high treason, with 
 this declaration in his mouth, that " if he had served God as faithfully as he had 
 served his king he had not come to so disastrous an end." 
 
 The next remarkable epoch in the house of Ruthven, and that which completed 
 its ruin, furnishes an event, justly termed one of the most problematical in 
 Scottish history, and well known as the Gowrie Conspiracy. The court version, 
 which James himself furnished for the satisfaction of his subjects, is briefly this. 
 On the 5th August, 1600, while residing at Falkland Palace, and when going out 
 to hunt in the morning, James was accosted by Alexander Ruthven, the earl of 
 Gowrie's youngest brother, who informed him, that on the preceding evening he 
 had seized a stranger, and found under his cloak a pot filled with a quantity of 
 foreign gold. Thinking the circumstance suspicious, he had detained him, and 
 now felt it his duty to inform the king. James, supposing him to be a foreign 
 priest, come to excite disturbance in the country, ordered the prisoner to be con- 
 signed over to the magistrates of Perth for strict examination. Ruthven, however, 
 eagerly advised the king to go thither in person. Accordingly, with a suite of only 
 twenty individuals, James set out for Perth, and, being met by the earl of Gowrie 
 and several citizens, who with much apparent loyalty invited him to partake of a 
 repast at Gowrie House, he complied with the desire of his subjects. While 
 sitting at table he was attended by the earl, but the latter, contrary to the etiquette 
 on such occasions, and insensible to the joy which a king's presence ought to 
 inspire, appeared thoughtful and embarrassed, as if some weighty matter pressed 
 upon his heart. 
 
 When the repast was finished, and the royal attendants had withdrawn to dine 
 in another room, Ruthven cautiously suggested, that now was the time to visit 
 the chamber where the stranger priest was confined. To this proposal the king 
 assented, and Ruthven leading the way, conducted him tlirough several apartments, 
 — but locking every door behind him — till he came to a small turret chamber, 
 in which stood a man in complete armour, with a sword and dagger by his 
 side. The king, who expected to have found the " priest" under very different 
 circumstances, started back, and hastily inquired if this was the " stranger ?" But 
 
 • Tile earl of Gowrie was son of that Lord Ruthven who played tlie principal part in Rizzio's murder, 
 and was so little affected with remorse for his share in that tragedy, that on his death-bed he spoke with 
 g"tat coolness of what he teimed " the slaughter of David!"
 
 IHE GOWRIE CONSPIRACY. 27 
 
 Ruthven, snatching the dagger from the girdle of the man in armour, and direct- 
 ing its point to the king's breast, answered, " Remember how unjustly my father 
 sufl'ered by your command ! You are now my prisoner — submit to my disposal 
 without resistance or outcry, or this dagger shall avenge his blood ! " Startled 
 by tliis sudden change in the drama, James expostulated, entreated, and flattered, 
 till Ruthven, appearing to relent, protested, that if the king raised no outcry, his 
 life should be sacred. In the mean time, moved by some inexplicable motive, and 
 taking the king's word of honour not to make any noise in his absence, he left him 
 in charge of the man in armour. But, while in this critical situation, the royal 
 attendants becoming impatient to know what had become of their master, one of 
 Gowrie's servants entered hastily and informed them that the king had just taken 
 horse for Falkland, and was still in sight. At this intimation, all rushed into the 
 street, while Gowrie himself, seconding their impatience, ordered out the horses. 
 By this time Ruthven had returned to the king, and swearing that there was no 
 alternative but death, attempted to manacle his sovereign. Fired at the insult, 
 and scorning to submit to such indignity, Jaiues, unarmed as he was, closed with 
 the assassii\, and a fierce struggle ensued. The man in armour, as hitherto, stood 
 amazed and motionless, while the king, dragging Ruthven towards a window, 
 cried with a voice of terror, — " Treason, treason ! help ! " His attendants instantly 
 recognising lus voice, and seemg at the open lattice a hand \Yhich violently grasped 
 ■ his neck, flew to his assistance. The duke of Lennox, the earl of Mar, and a 
 nmnber of others, mounted the great staircase, but in this direction found all 
 the doors fastened. Sir John Ramsay, however, and others of the suite, entering 
 by a back staircase, and rushing up, found the door of the closet open, 
 and Ruthven still struggling with the king. Ramsay, starting to his assistance, 
 struck the traitor twice with his dagger, thrust him towards the staircase, where 
 Sir Hugh Herries met and dispatched him, while, with his last breatli, he called 
 out — " I am not to blame for this action ! " 
 
 During this scuffle, the man in armour escaped unobserved. Along with 
 Ramsay, Erskine, and Herries, pages of the king, a sen-ant, named Wilson, 
 returned into the room where the king was standing ; but before they had time 
 to secure the door, Gowrie, with a drawn sword in each hand, followed by seven of 
 his armed attendants, rushed in, and with a loud and frantic voice threatened 
 them with instant death. But Ramsay and his party, though so unequal in 
 numbers, faced the earl ; and, in the sharp encounter that ensued, the latter 
 receiving a mortal thrust from Ramsay, fell dead without uttering a word. A 
 great noise still continued at the door opening upon the principal staircase, where 
 many persons were vainly endeavouring to force an entrance. The king being
 
 ii8 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 assured that these were Lennox, Mar, and his other friends, ordered them to 
 be admitted. Rushing forward, and finding the king, unexpectedly, safe, nothing 
 could exceed the warmth of their congratulations; while James, falHng on his 
 knees with all his attendants around him, offered up fervent thanks to God for 
 so miraculous a deliverance. But the danger was not yet over ; the inhabitants 
 of Perth, of which Gowrie was provost — and in that office liighly popular,* 
 on hearing the fate of the two brothers, flew to arms, beset the house, 
 and threatening revenge, applied the most opprobrious epithets to the king. 
 James endeavoured to pacify the exasperated multitude by speaking to them 
 from the window ; he admitted their magistrates to his presence, related the 
 whole circumstances as they had occurred, and these being repeated to the 
 people, their fury subsided, and they dispersed. 
 
 The man in armour, who was afterwards discovered, on a promise of pardon, 
 and proved to be Gowrie's steward, declared that he was totally ignorant of 
 his master's design. After many trials, and several executions, nothing was 
 ever elicited that could throw any light upon this mysterious plot. The 
 clergy, however, boldly maintained that the " court account" was a mere 
 fabrication, formed and executed by the king himself, for destroying two 
 popular characters, vs'ho were known to favour the Presbyterian interest, and 
 whose family had long, been privately obnoxious to James. Rendered stubborn 
 by this conviction, they refused to return public thanks for the king's escape, 
 and several were banished in consequence. f 
 
 Having mentioned Ruthven, now Huntingtower Castle, as that in which the 
 Scottish sovereign was unlawfully detained, we may add the following anecdote 
 by way of contrast. A daughter of the first Earl Gowrie, being addressed 
 by a young gentleman, much her inferior in rank and fortune, (disadvantages 
 which were entirely overlooked by the lady,) her family, although they dis- 
 couraged the match, permitted his ^'isits at the castle. On one of these 
 
 • Alexander Ruthven was a young man of great hopes, learned, handsome, young, and active; his 
 brother and he belonged to the class of men which most readily attracted the king's notice; and generous, 
 brave, and religious to a degree, not common with men so young, they were the darlings of the people. — 
 Sir Walter Scott. 
 
 t Even on the continent, says Osborn, not a Scotchman could be found who did not laugh at it, and 
 agree that the relation murdered all possibility of credit. The whole, indeed, is a story which might 
 almost stagger a believer in miracles, and, for its proof, demands an evidence which neither the history 
 of the times, nor the most intimate knowledge of human nature, can produce. "We can only say with 
 Bruce, one of the clergymen who demurred at thanking the Almighty for the discomfiture of this pre- 
 tended conspiracy, that, ** if we must, on pain of death, reverence his Majesty's report of the trans- 
 action, we will reverence it, but we will not say that we are convinced of the truth of it." — See also Lives 
 of Scottish Poets, art. James VI.
 
 THE MAIDEN S-LEAP. — THE ROYAL WELCOME. 29 
 
 occasions, lie was lodged in a tower, nearly opposite to that of his mistress, 
 but communicating with a different staircase, and divided at top by a wide 
 interval of nine feet between the walls, which were sixty feet in height. In 
 the evening the young lady was accidentally missed from her chamber, at 
 the accustomed hour ; and some suspicion having arisen that she had mistaken 
 the staircase, and was secreted in the turret of her lover, her mother hastened 
 ihither in search of the fair truant. The latter, however, rightly guessing 
 what must ensue were she discovered in the prohibited " bower," and hear- 
 ing the maternal footsteps approaching, formed the desperate resolution to 
 elude detection under such delicate circumstances, or perish in the effort. 
 Thus nerved for the attempt, and with the agility of a chamois on its native 
 precipices, she cleared the frightful chasm at a bound, lighted on her own 
 battlements without injury, and retired to bed, where the wary countess, 
 defeated in her previous search, found her shortly afterwards apparently asleep, 
 and could hardly forgive herself for her unjust suspicions of so dutiful a 
 daughter. Next night, however, the young lady, taking a still more desperate 
 step, eloped from the paternal castle, and was married to her lover. The 
 battlements where this daring experiment was tried are still shown as the 
 " maiden's leap." 
 
 One of the proudest days in the annals of Perth seems to have been that 
 on which King David Bruce, or David II., was conducted thither on his 
 return from France, and where he assembled the vast army with which he 
 aftervrards invaded England. The account given by Froissard, who was then 
 in Scotland, furnishes a vivid picture of the scene. As soon as the young 
 king landed at Inverberne, in the Mearns, his subjects flocked to him in 
 multitudes, and thence, with great joy and solemnity, conducted him to Perth. 
 His arrival there was the signal of national festivity, and all classes hastened to 
 bid him a loyal welcome. The smile of the sovereign was like a sudden light 
 in a dark place ; and for some time, every day was a renewal of the festival. 
 When the first outpourings of the national spirit had in some measure subsided, 
 it was represented to the king what waste and woe had been brought upon the 
 country by his great enemy, Edward, the English king. David expressed his 
 ■ deep sense of the sufferings of which so many of his loyal subjects had been 
 the innocent victims, but consoled them with the prospect of speedy retaliation, 
 and pledged his royal word to see their wrongs redressed, or to perish in the 
 attempt. Full of this lofty resolve, and with the advice of his council, he sent 
 messages to all his friends and vassals, to entreat that they would unite their 
 strength to liis, and thereby insure a triumph to his patriotic enterprise. The 
 
 VOL. n. I
 
 go SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 fii-st who responded to the royal summons was the earl of Orkney, who had 
 married the king's sister, and now arrived with a powerful subsidy of hardy 
 mountaineers. Numerous barons and knights, also, from Sweden, Denmark, 
 and other parts beyond sea — some for affection to the king and his cause, 
 some for pay — swelled the amount of the Scottish host. So great were the 
 numbers that arrived from all parts, that, on the day of rendezvous appointed 
 by the king, sixty thousand warriors on foot, and three thousand horse, with 
 a long roll of knights and squires, made their entrance into Perth. Ronald, 
 Lord of the Isles, who governed the " wild Scots," as Froissard terms them, 
 and whom only they would obey, was especially invited to attend the king in 
 Parliament, and brought with him three thousand of the "wildest of his 
 countrymen." Unhappily for the latter chief and his sovereign's cause, there 
 was a deadly feud between him and the powerful earl of Ross, by whose 
 machinations Ronald was murdered by a faithless harper, while lodged in the 
 monastery of Elcho, near Perth.* Ross, justly di-eading the king's resentment, 
 immediately retired with his followers ; while the men of the Isles, disgusted 
 by the base assassination of their chief, and viewing the disaster as a bad omen 
 for the cause, broke up, and deserting the royal standard, retired in disorder to 
 their native mountains. The king, though disconcerted, and greatly weakened 
 by this desertion, which lost him the service of two of the most effective chiefs 
 and their clans, resolved to proceed; and on the disastrous field, near Durham, 
 that closed the expedition, left the best part of that noble army which marched 
 under the royal standard from Perth. 
 
 The Carse of Gowrie, in fertility of soil and beauty of scenerj', may be net 
 inaptly designated the Val d'Arno of Scotland. The interval between Perth and 
 Dundee, a space of twenty-two miles, is filled up with a continued series of highly 
 cultivated and productive farms, noblemen's seats, populous villages, and garden 
 and orchard grounds. On the left, on leaving Perth, is the romantic Craig of 
 Kinnoul, with Kinfauns Castle beneath, sheltered in luxuriant woods, and over- 
 looking the Tay. Among the antiquities preserved in this castle, is Charteris's 
 sword, five feet nine inches long. This formidable weapon is said to have belonged 
 to Sir Thomas Charteris, or Thomas de Longueville, the ancient proprietor of 
 Kinfauns. He was a native of France, and representative of a family well 
 known in that country ; but at the close of the thirteenth century, when at the 
 court of Philip the Fair, having a dispute with one of the noblemen, he slew 
 him in the king's presence. Being refused pardon for the rash and bloody act, 
 he betook himself to the high seas, and under the name of the Red Reaver, 
 
 • Froissard's Chron. c. cxxxv.
 
 KINFAUNS. — CiLAMJIlS CASTLE. 31 
 
 became terrible to all seafaring people as a remorseless pirate. Sir William 
 Wallace, however, in his voyage to France, having met and encountered this 
 formidable giaour, took him prisoner, and pleased with that kindred spirit of 
 heroism, which vpould have immortalized the reaver in a better cause, presented 
 him to the French king as a suppliant for mercy. Philip, who was pleased to 
 have an occasion of obliging the Scottish hero, and of exhibiting a signal instance 
 of his royal clemency, cancelled the sentence of outlawry, and conferred on his 
 penitent subject the honour of knighthood. Thus restored to court favour, 
 and to society, Charteris accompanied Wallace to Scotland,* where he ever after 
 remained his steady friend, and a frank participator in all his daring exploits. 
 When Wallace was betrayed and carried into England, and Bruce asserted 
 his right to the Scottish crown, Charteris was the first that followed him into 
 the water at the taking of Perth, in January 1313, and in reward for his bravery, 
 received a royal grant of the estate of Kinfauns. 
 
 Pitfour, Kinnaird, and Castle Huntley, are magnificent mansions, combining 
 all the advantages of situation with the embeUishments of art. But of these, 
 and many others with which this district is richly adorned, our limits will not 
 permit us to enter into any description. f 
 
 Glancing at the valley of Strathmore, the first objects that arrest attention 
 are the dramatic scene of Dunsinnan-hill, and Glammis Castle. The latter, in 
 point of antiquity and historical interest, is one of the most remarkable structures 
 in the kingdom. Although much dilapidated and dimmed in its original 
 splendour, its feudal air of strength and haughty defiance, and its sullen gloom 
 of seclusion in an antique forest, render it a subject peculiarly adapted for the 
 pencil, and for exciting the imagination of the poet. We shall not detain the 
 reader with the recent changes that have altered, but not detracted, from the 
 dignity of this stately fortalice, but the following account will show what it was 
 a century ago. " Entering Strathmore," says an anonymous traveller, " we 
 arrived at the palace of Glammis, belonging to Lyon, earl of Strathmore, which, 
 by its many turrets and gilded balustrades at the top, struck us with awe and 
 admiration. It stands in the middle of a well-planted park, with avenues 
 branching off in all directions from the house. The great avenue — thickly 
 planted on each side, and entered by a massive gate-way, with ofiices of free- 
 
 • See the Statist Ace. and Family Hist. 
 
 t For tlie pedestrian who would see the Carse and its adjacent scenery in perfection, the best romt is 
 that along the heights, or braes of the Carse, which command the whole valley, the river, and the populous 
 shores of Fife. As a central point in this route, the nanae of Kinnaird might be selected as that whicli 
 combines the greatest number of striking features. From this station, too, the traveller will trace no small 
 resemblance to the Tuscan V^il d'Arno r.lready mcr.tioned.
 
 ijii SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 stone on each side, like a little town — leads through a space of half a mile to the 
 outer court, within which are statues as large as life. On the great gate of the 
 inner court, are balustrades of stone, finely adorned with statues ; and in the 
 court, four colossal statues — one of James VI. in his stole, another of Charles I., 
 as he is usually painted by Vandyk. From this court we have a full prospect 
 of the gardens on eacli side, cut into grass-plots, and adorned with evergreens. 
 The house is the highest we have ever seen, consisting of a lofty tower in the 
 middle, with two wings, and a tower at each end — the whole above two hundred 
 feet broad. The stairs, from the entrance hall to the top of the house, consist of 
 one hundred and forty-three steps, of which those of the great staircase, where 
 five people can mount abreast, are eighty-six, each step of a single block. In 
 the first floor are thirty-eight rooms with fire-places ; the hall is adorned with 
 family pictures, and beliiud this is a handsome chapel, with an organ. On the 
 altar is a fine painting of the ' Last Supper,' and on the ceiling an ' Ascension,' 
 by De Wit, a Dutchman, whom Earl Patrick brought from Holland, and who 
 painted the ceilings of most of the rooms. In the drawing-room next to the 
 hall is an excellent portrait of Queen Mary, of Medina, the ' Pretender's' 
 mother, with several others of the principal Scottish nobility ; and over the 
 chimney, a curious Italian scripture piece. When the Pretender was here 
 on a nsit, besides the state chamber, eighty-eight beds were made up for his 
 retinue, besides the servants, who were lodged in the offices out of doors." 
 
 On the Hunters' Hill, an eminence which overlooks Glammis, Malcolm II. 
 is said to have been attacked by assassins ; and tradition still points out the 
 chamber in the castle where the unfortunate monarch died of his wounds. To 
 the readers of Shakspeare it would be superfluous to state how Macbeth became 
 master of Glammis, and this stronghold and the usurper so closely associated. 
 In the armoury of the castle — a museum well stored mth antiquities that 
 recall the " pomp and circumstance" of their feudal possessors — are the sword 
 and shirt of mail worn by Macbeth — and, among others of modern date, the 
 arms with which the earl of Strathmore fell on the field of Sheriffmoor, are 
 exhibited to visitors. The castle is in all respects an object of interest, not 
 only on account of its traditions, but as one of the finest specimens of feudal 
 architecture now existing; and combines, in a striking manner, the gloom of 
 prison security with the grandeur of a 'palace. 
 
 Among the melancholy associations connected with this castle, is the fate 
 of the beautiful Lady Glammis, who fell a victim to that horrid superstition 
 which, in a barbarous age, brought so many unhappy beings to the stake. In 
 pursuance of the sentence which had pronounced her guilty of witchcraft, she
 
 BLAIR ATIIOL. — KILLICRANKIE. 33 
 
 was publicly burnt* on the Castle-hill of Edinburgh, and met her doom with a 
 fortitude and composui'e which, added to her youth and beauty, made a strong 
 impression upon the multitude, and left an additional stigma on the legislation 
 of her day. 
 
 Before taking leave of Perthshire — of which, as premised, we have offered 
 only an imperfect gleaning — we return to the district of Athol, in which Blair 
 Castle and the Pass of Killicrankie are the commanding objects. The former 
 of these, the ancient residence of the dukes of Athol, stands on an extensive 
 plain, known as the hlair, or vale of Athol ; and, in point of strength and 
 situation, was well calculated— to serve as a post of defence. With such facility, 
 and being the only fortress commanding the Pass, it was repeatedly taken and 
 garrisoned by the rival armies, which alternately lost and won this key to the 
 Highlands. It was besieged and taken by Montrose, in consequence of its 
 garrison having presumed to check his progress. Colonel Daniel, an officer 
 in Cromwell's army, took it by storm ten years later; and in 1689, it occasioned, 
 what was justly termed the most important event of the day, the battle of 
 KiUicrankie. In the last rebellion, its garrison, inuler the command of Sir 
 Andrew Agnew, foiled the rebels in two several attempts to reduce it. But 
 at last, the noble proprietor seeing that he had little prospect of ever enjoying 
 domestic tranquillity whilst the mansion was in a condition to serve as a rallying 
 post in every civil commotion, dismantled its towers, lowered it by tliree stories, 
 and reduced the warlike fortress of his ancestors into a common-place family 
 residence. By this decisive measure, it has gained in security what it lost in 
 picturesque effect ; and, in these peaceful times, with its magnificent ciurtain 
 of umbrageous woods and mountains, watered by two rivers, embellished by 
 the hand of art, and stocked mth every species of ^vild game, from the roebuck 
 to the ptarmigan, it presents one of the most attractive domains in Scotland. 
 
 The Pass of Killicrankie, which communicates with the Blair of Athol, 
 stretches for the space of a mile or upwards along the termination of the river 
 Garry. The hills rise from the bed of the river in steep gradation, flanking 
 it on the western bank with a precipitous wall. The bold rocks, lining its 
 channel, are mantled over with masses of waving birch, ash, and oak — the light 
 and graceful foliage of which, moving and changing its hues with every breeze, 
 
 * Speaking of the indiSerence with which we pronounce the words, " burnt alive :" an able writer has 
 well remarked — " Brules vifs ! on lit sans y penser ces expressions si courtes, qu'on est tant habitufc i. 
 voir dans les martyrologes. Mais conf oit-on bien ce que c'est ! se sentir enchaine et la flamme vous attein- 
 dre : la peau s'ecailler ; la chair irritSe decrepiter et se fendre ; les muscles se tordre dans les membres ; 
 le sang faire etfervescence sur les tisons, lorsqu'une veine delate: puis, enfin la mort qui vous arrive dans 
 un air ardent et m^phitique." — Muslon, liv. i. 62. 
 
 VOL. II, K
 
 34 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 contrasts finely with the bleak crags that start at intervals through its leafy 
 screen, and at length soar into the abrupt and rugged outline of Ben-Vracky. 
 The situation of Fascally-house, at the entrance to the Pass, is singularly 
 romantic. 
 
 This Pass, in reference to its military history, has been styled the Scottish 
 " Thermopylas," and, till the present road was constructed, might have been 
 called with no less propriety the " Via-Mala" of Scotland. But the dangers 
 of the Pass, which contributed not a little to its " sublimity," have disappeared 
 with the progress of art, and those unprecedented facilities of intercourse which 
 have been thrown open by modern enterprise. The circumstances by which 
 it gained so important a station in history, are these : — General Mackay, with 
 the design of intimidating the district of Blair-Athol into measures favourable 
 to the revolution under King William, directed his whole force upon this 
 point. When the Viscount Dundee, who supported the interest of King 
 James with a body of the Clans, had reached Blair, he was informed that 
 General Mackay had already entered the Pass of KiUicrankie, and was momen- 
 tarily expected at the head of a numerous force. Dundee, whose intrepidity 
 was proverbial, and his influence over the minds of his Highland followers 
 unlimited, resolved to meet his adversary at the mouth of the Pass. With 
 this determination, he drew up his Highland force, explained in pithy phrase 
 the emergency to which he was reduced, told them a bright day had dawned 
 upon them at last, and that now their Highland broad-swords must open them 
 a path to victory. His well-known voice was answered by shouts of loyalty 
 and devotion to the cause, and the next minute, while the Highland bagpipe 
 screamed its shrill note of defiance, the whole body moved rapidly forward to 
 the Pass. 
 
 A brief march brought the generals in sight of each other ; the troops hastily 
 formed as they debouched from the rocky defile ; a furious volley of musquetry 
 announced their mutual recognition, and the Highlanders, armed with sword 
 and target, and seizing the momentary pause, rushed down upon the " red- 
 coats" — as the soldiers were contemptuously styled — with a confidence and 
 impetuosity that carried every thing before them. The troops, who were 
 chiefly composed of raw levies, were paralysed by this sudden appeal to close 
 quarters ; and, unable to stem the charge, fell under the blows of the Highland 
 broad-sword and Lochaber axe, or fled like fragments scattered from the disjointed 
 mass. Others, with better success, met the unwonted charge with serried 
 bayonets, against which the Highlander dashed with reckless impatience, 
 placed his target in front, entangled his adversary's steel, and then, springing
 
 BATTLE OF KILLICRANKIE. — VISCOUNT DUNDEE. 35 
 
 forward into the lines, slew or disarmed an enemy at every stroke. Thus beset 
 by a continued rush of undisciplined troops, the soldiers could make no effective 
 use of their fire-arms. The centre and left wing of Mackay's troops had been 
 completely broken ; but the right wing still maintained its ground, and, like 
 a stately column, stood erect amid the ruin of its fellows. This caught the eye 
 of Dundee : hastily rallying his horsemen for this important object, he made 
 a desperate charge upon the stubborn mass ; but at the very moment that he 
 had brought them to the assault and raised his arm to strike, a bullet whistled 
 througli the thick mass of his attendants, and lodged in his body. A violent 
 " imprecation" escaped his lips, and the next minute the chief lay expiring in 
 the arms of his devoted followers.* 
 
 On the bleak surface of the moors stretching along the frontiers of Perth 
 and Inverness, many pillars and cairns — memorials of those who have perished 
 in the snow or fallen in battle — give melancholy interest to the scene. At 
 Dalnaspidal, are the remains of an encampment occupied by Cromwell's troops. 
 Here, also, in the last rebellion. General Cope drew up his army in expectation 
 of an attack, but quitting his position to continue his march northward, threw 
 open the Pass to the Highlanders. This ground is still further remarkable as the 
 scene of certain exploits, in speaking of which, says- General Stewart, of Garth, 
 " I know not if the whole of the Peninsular campaigns exhibited a more com- 
 plicated piece of mihtary service." A battalion of the Athol brigade — common 
 peasants, and a fev^' country gentlemen, without military experience — under Lord 
 George Murray's directions, " surprised and carried twenty detached, strong 
 and defensible posts, all within two hours of the night ; and the different parties 
 engaged in this daring enterprise, met punctually at the appointed place of 
 rendezvous, although their operations lay in a rugged and mountainous country. 
 Lord George had himself marched to the bridge of Bruar with only twenty-five 
 men, and a few elderly gentlemen, when he was informed" that Sir Andrew 
 Agnew, who held the Castle of Blair, was advancing with a strong force to 
 
 • Thus fell the " gallant Dundee !" — or, as he was designated by the Covenanters, the " bloody Clavers" 
 — a man whom historians have depicted under the most opposite colours ; one set representino- him as a 
 Castro-Caro, or a Pianessa,' the other as a second Bayard ; but both agreeing in ascribing to him that military 
 tact and fearless intrepidity, which made him the idol of one party, and the terror of the other. His death 
 completely neutralized the victory ; the Clans dispersed, and Mackay was suffered to retire with the wreck 
 ot his forces. An obelisk marks the scene of battle, and stands on the spot where Dundee received his 
 death wound. It may be superfluous to remind the reader of the celebrated novel, in which the character 
 of " Dundee" is so vividly portrayed. The songn, commemorative of this battle, have been long popular. 
 
 • See the History of the Waldenses, (the " Covenanters " of Piedmont,) in the persecution of whom 
 these individuals were so infamously distinguished.
 
 36 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 reconnoitre. It was daylight, but the sun was not up.* Lord George, looking 
 earnestly about him, observed a fold-dike, or wall of turf, which had been 
 begun as a fence for cattle, but left unfinished. He ordered his men to follow, 
 and draw up behind the dike, but at such a distance from one_ another that they 
 might make a great show, having the colours of both regiments flying in front. 
 He then gave orders to the pipers — for he had with him the pipers both of the 
 Athol men and the Macphersons — to keep their eyes fixed on the road from 
 Blair, and the moment they saw the soldiers appear, to strike up with all their 
 bagpipes at once. It happened that Agnew's regiments came in sight just 
 as the sun rose ; and that instant the pipers began to play one of their most 
 shrill and rousing pibrochs. Lord George and his Highlanders, both officers 
 and men, whilst drawing their swords, brandished them about their heads. Sir 
 Andrew, after gazing awhile at this spectacle, ordered his men to the right 
 about, and without farther question marched back to the Castle of Blair. Lord 
 George kept his post till several of his parties came in, and then marching 
 forward with about three hundred, laid siege to the castle. 
 
 INVERNESS-SHIRE. 
 
 Land of the pibroch and the plaid; 
 
 Land of the henchman and the raid ; 
 
 Land of the brave, the fair, the good." — The Recess. 
 
 Quos ille timorum 
 
 Maximus baud urget lethi metus : inde ruendi 
 In ferrum mens prona viris, animseque capaoes 
 Mortis." LucAN. 
 
 The county of Inverness is the most extensive in Scotland, and, like that 
 we have just left, peculiarly rich in all that can interest the mind, or waken 
 the imagination of strangers. The expanse and character of its lakes — the 
 wild subhmity of its mountains — its pastoral hiUs, fertile valleys, and waving 
 forests — the venerable monuments of religion — the mouldering fastnesses of its 
 Celtic chiefs — the gloom of its Alpine passes, and the smiling landscapes that 
 encircle its lakes — all that is most efiective in painting, or famous in the page 
 
 • Home. Anderson. Stewart's Sketches. Statistics of the County.
 
 GLEN. — CALEDONIAN CANAL. 37 
 
 of history, invite tlie traveller to its recesses, and furnisli ample materials 
 for reflection and improvement. The barren heath displays on its breast the 
 imperishable records of strife; the frowning rock, its once impregnable fastness; 
 the forest, its druidical altars; the heath, its cairns; and the softer features of 
 the landscape, its well-stocked folds, thriving hamlets, and cultivated farms. 
 Lordly mansions, embosomed in their picturesque domains ; villas and country 
 seats, that have rapidly multiplied within the last twenty years ; villages, that 
 have risen into towns, and towns that iar outstep their former limits, bear 
 flattering testimony to the progress of industiy, and the extension of those 
 natural resources which form the great mine of domestic wealth. 
 
 This magnificent county is bounded on the north by Ross-shire, and part of 
 the Moray Frith ; on the east by the shires of Elgin, Moray, and Aberdeen ; 
 on the south by Perth and Argyll ; and on the west by the Atlantic Ocean. 
 It comprehends a variety of districts ; a considerable portion of the Hebrides, 
 with the smaller islands sprinkled along the coast ; and, exclusive of these, 
 presents a territory of more than ninety miles in length, by nearly fifty in 
 breadth. The great distinguishing feature of this county is, its natural division 
 into two parts, by what is called the Great Glen, or Valley of Albyn, which 
 runs from its north-western extremity to that on the north-east — a direction 
 nearly parallel with that of the Grampians. This immense fissure, opening 
 between two distinct chains of lofty mountains, and occupied by a succession of 
 lakes, suggested the great national undertaking of the Caledonian Canal, which 
 now connects the Atlantic with the German Ocean.* 
 
 To the tourist, this canal presents the greatest facilities for an extensive survey 
 of those romantic regions from which he was formerly debarred by the imperfect 
 state of the roads, or could only reach by a very circuitous route. The country 
 through which it passes is often of the most striking and varied character — 
 alternately presenting all the gradations of lake and mountain scenery, from 
 the cultivated farm to the cloud-capt palaces of Nature, and the wild magnificence 
 with which she has invested the Celtic Alps. The fare by the weekly steam boats, 
 which perform the trip between Inverness and Glasgow in forty hours, or less, 
 is only twenty-five shillings ; while to the weak or invalid traveller, the comfort 
 
 • The survey was made by Messrs. Telford and Jessop, civil engineers, in 1803, and the following year; 
 and after nearly twenty years* labour, and an enormous expenditure, the canal was finally opened in 
 October, 1822. A splendid fete — given on board the steam vessel with wliich the late.Charlcs Grant, Esq., 
 the county member, and his friends, proceeded from sea to sea, a distance of sixty miles — commemorated 
 the event. From that time a regular communication has been kept up between Inverness, Glasgow, and 
 the west coast, by means of steam boats, which have opened a new source of convenience and emolument 
 to those engaged in foreign and domestic tratle. — For particulars, see Anderson's " Highlands," pp. 231-0. 
 
 VOL. II. L
 
 38 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 and convenience of such means of transport from one side of the kingdom to 
 the other are inestimable. 
 
 The city of Inverness, the Highland metropolis, occupies a station highly 
 advantageous for trade, being traversed by the waters of the Ness, and in 
 immediate contact with the great canal, where it joins the Moray Frith. The 
 buildings, extending along the banks of the river, are generally handsome, and 
 such as bespeak the ancient importance and modern improvements of a com- 
 mercial capital. From the bridge, a handsome structure of seven ribbed arches,* 
 the principal street extends eastward at right angles to the river ; and from it 
 two others diverge northward towards the harbour. At the angle of Church- 
 street, one of these, is the prison, built at the close of the last century, and 
 ornamented with a lofty steeple, which adds greatly to its effect as a public 
 edifice. Nearly opposite are the exchange, the town-house, and the ancient 
 market-cross, at the base of which lies the Clach-na-cuddin, or stone of the tubs, 
 on which, in former times, the maid-servants, on drawing water from the river, 
 were wont to rest their tubs, or pitchers. This antiquity, ornamented with the 
 royal and city arms, is reckoned the palladium of the town, and recalls a period 
 of national history which recognized none of those " water-companies" which 
 have since banished the classic " pitcher," or, at least, confined it to the painter's 
 canvass. The square tower of the High Church was built by Cromwell ; and 
 the sweet, clear-toned bell which tolls the curfew, was transported hither by 
 his order from the cathedral of Fortrose, where it had long summoned to its 
 altars the followers of a more imposing ritual. 
 
 The various churches and chapels, which give a pleasing effect to the general 
 architecture of the city, are numerous — compared with the population — well 
 attended, and the service performed by able and conscientious pastors. In 
 addition to those of the Establishment in English and Gaelic, the town contains 
 Episcopalian, Seceder, Independent, Methodist, and Roman Catholic chapels — all 
 of which, in the full enjoyment of religious toleration, present a most gratifying 
 
 • One of ilie arches encloses a vault formerly used as a prison, and latterlv as a madliouse, which, says 
 Mr. Anderson, " has only been closed up witliin the last twenty years." The narrow iron grating through 
 which the unhappy captive caught a distant glimpse of the hills, and of the river, which rushed under his 
 dismal cell, is still visible. The roar of waters, the rolling of wheels, the trampling of horses over the 
 arched roof, or the chime of the evening bell, were the only sounds that reached him in his dreary recep- 
 tacle ; and the only face which had become familiar, was that of the grim attendant who doled out the stinted 
 means of prolonging a miserable existence. The " prison of Chillon" was a palace, and "Bonniv.ard" almost 
 enviable, when compared with this breathing sepulchre on the Ness. It is a melancholy reficctiun that this 
 dungeon was not abandoned till the last miserable tenant had been nearly devoured by rats— a fact which 
 recalls the " ratten-thurm" on the Rhine. In the present day, a gratifying revolution has taken place in 
 this particular administration, and a humane distinction drawn between the maniac and the malefi^ctor.
 
 /
 
 ciTv OF invehness. 39 
 
 contrast to that spirit of bigotry wliicli so long denounced religious distinction 
 as a crime against the state, and made it a sufficient ground for persecution. 
 The Academy is a handsome building, with class-rooms for five masters, besides 
 the public hall, ornamented with a fine painting by an old Italian master, and 
 a bust from the chisel of Westmacott. The Northern Institution, for the 
 encouragement of literary and scientific pursuits, is among the recent proofs 
 of that march of intellect, which is now so generally promoted over the whole 
 kingdom, and no where with better judgment or more ennobling efforts, than 
 among the enlightened citizens of Inverness. Numerous private schools and 
 academies have also come in for their share in the great and important business 
 of public education ; and the most laudable exertions are employed by parents 
 and teachers, to qualify the course of human study* with the purifying influence 
 of religious instruction. Reading-rooms, chambers for county assemblies, and, 
 in short, all the usual resources of a great capital, only on a smaller scale, are 
 to be found in the city of Inverness. 
 
 Within the last five or six years, the town has made a rapid advancement 
 in all that contributes to the health and comfort of the inhabitants, and to the 
 clean and cheerful appearance of the buildings. The streets have been newly 
 paved with granite ; the footpaths widened and laid with Caithness flag, a stone 
 well adapted for the purpose ; and the town exceedingly well lighted with gas. 
 The public sewers have been deepened and carried under the streets and houses 
 so as to sweep off every impurity, and preserve the town in a state of great 
 salubrity. The public Hospital, erected in a pleasant and cheerful situation 
 a short way out of the town, is supported by voluntary subscriptions only. 
 It is extremely well conducted, and, we may add, highly deserving of support. 
 Those wealthy individuals who annually resort for health to the mountains of 
 Inverness, cannot better express their gratitude than by here contributing to 
 that of its less fortunate inmates. 
 
 Of the public walks, and the magnificent and varied prospects which they 
 command, it is hardly possible to speak too highly. The banks of the Ness are 
 bordered with a rich garniture of trees, embellished with nvunerous villas, and 
 within a mile of the town the stream is divided into separate branches by a 
 series of small islands luxuriantly wooded. Here, in ancient times, the city 
 
 * By the late Dr. Bell's munificent bequest for the purposes of education in his native country, Inverness 
 benefits to the amount of 10,000/. three per cent, consols, which is applied to the establishment of schools 
 on his well-known system. Previously to this, a fund was left in 1803, by Captain Mackintosh, for the 
 education of boys belonging to certain families of that name, and which now amounts to upwards of 
 25,000/. The public charities are numerous, originating in legacies devised by philunthropic individuals.
 
 40 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 magistrates entertained the king's judges with rural feasts when tliey came to 
 hold assize-courts. " Salmon, caught in the adjoining pool, formed the prin- 
 cipal delicacy ; while claret, brandy, and even the classic sack, flowed in plentiful 
 libations among the guests." The surface of these islands is now intersected by 
 pleasant walks, where the more refined citizens of the present day indulge the 
 luxury of exercise and recreation. "VMien the projected plan, of connecting 
 these islands with the opposite banks by means of chain bridges, shall have been 
 carried into effect — of which an earnest has been already given in the completion 
 of one — Inverness and its precincts will have scarcely a rival within the limits 
 of ancient Caledonia ; even now it may challenge comparison with the finest 
 cities in the kingdom. Every thing has been done for Inverness that can be 
 effected by wood or cultivation ; whilst, in a natural state, it unites the opposite 
 qualities of a rich campaign with the wildest Aljjine scenery — here interrupted, 
 and there contrasted, in the most striking manner. The beautiful plain on 
 which it stands — girdled with hills, variegated in shape and size, here projecting 
 their rocky escarpments, there swelling in wooded cliffs, and interspersed with 
 ))leasing evidences of improved taste and increasing prosperity — presents one of 
 the finest prospects in the kingdom. 
 
 On the Crown, a rising ground to the east of tlie town, formerly stood an 
 ancient castle,* the nucleus of the burgh, where Macbeth is supposed to have 
 resided when he perpetrated the murder of his sovereign. But on this point 
 Shakspeare and the antiquaries are at variance ; the latter having endeavoured 
 to vindicate the castle from so foul a stain, by transferring it to a place in the 
 vicinity. The version of the poet, however, will remain the more popular, and 
 is too intimately associated with the drama to be overthrown by antiquarian 
 arguments. This primitive fortress was razed by Malcolm Canmore, who built 
 another on the eminence close by the river, which, after having served as a 
 palace and fortress through a long line of royal descendants, was blown up by 
 the insurgent forces in the last rebellion. 
 
 The Castle-hill has been very recently embellished with a spacious new 
 court-house, record-office, and county-rooms, to which, it is said, a jail, better 
 accommodated to the different classes of prisoners, will be added. Down to 
 
 " This castle liatli a pleasant seat ; the air 
 Nimbly and sweetly recommenJs itself 
 Unto our gentle senses. 
 The guest of summer — 
 
 The temple-haunting martlet — doth approve 
 By his loved mansionry, that the heaven's breath 
 Smells wooingly here." — Macbeth, AcI\. Scene 6.
 
 HISTORICAL SKETCH. 41 
 
 ihe invasion of Edward I., Inverness was the frequent residence of the kings, 
 whose presence was so often necessary to repel northern encroachments, and 
 suppress the violence of faction at home. After the accession of Bruce, it 
 was long held in despotic subjection to the constables of its own castle ; while 
 the constant inroads upon its territory, the heavy imposts levied u])on its 
 inhabitants, and its civil broils and battles with the neighbouring clans, rei.der 
 its early history replete with the disasters of a barbarous warfare, 
 
 Em.inently adapted by natui-e as a seat of mercantile enterprise, Inverness 
 appears to have been the early resort of those Flemish merchants who had 
 their colonies on almost every shore where sliips could receive or dispose of 
 •their lading. In proof of their Flemish origin, the old houses were erected 
 with large courts, arched gateways, steep roofs, and gables turned towards the 
 street ; and, till the middle of last century, many of them were thatched with 
 heath or straw. It is only within the last few years that the hanging balconies, 
 round turnpike stairs, and towers projecting in front of the houses — features 
 which gave several of the streets an appearance highly picturesque — have 
 disappeared. Of the citadel, built by Cromwell, and dismantled at the Restora- 
 tion, part of the ramparts still remains. For the erection of this fortress, England 
 furnished the oak planks and beams, and Strath-glass the fir. The monasteries 
 of Kinloss and Beauly, the bishop's castle of Chanonry, the Grey Friars' church, 
 and St. Mary's chapel, in Inverness, supjjlied materials for the stone- work. It 
 was built at the time when rehgious houses were converted into " stone 
 quarries," when altars were demolished to erect the most humble domestic 
 offices, and, in its turn, became a " quarry" for municipal improvement. Part 
 of the house in which Queen Mary resided during her visit to Inverness, still 
 exists. The object of this visit was to quell an insurrection raised by the earl of 
 Huntly, whose lieutenant, the governor of the castle, she caused to be executed. 
 
 Till the legislative measures of the disarming act were put in force, every 
 Highlander, even at church, appeared as if equipped for battle — the dirk and 
 pistols at his belt, and broadsword at his side. But does not every levee and 
 drawing-room in the present day present a similar spectacle ? So slow was the 
 progress of fashion, and so cautiously were its maxims adopted by the ladies 
 of Inverness, that, little more than sixty years ago, only three appeared at the 
 High church in straw bonnets : but it may be added with great justice, tliat 
 the ladies of Inverness need not the foreign aid of ornament.* 
 
 The municipal authorities consist of a provost, four bailies, a dean of guild, 
 
 * '■ Quid de matronis dicam tenerisque puellis ! 
 Si modo fes, dixeris esse deas." 
 
 VOL. II. M
 
 4S SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATI.D. 
 
 a treasurer, and fourteen councillors. On Sundays, the magistrates walk to 
 church, preceded by their lictors, and, till lately, used to attend, by invitation, the 
 funerals of the inhabitants. The population of the town and parish i's nearly 
 fifteen thousand, and the number entitled to vote for a member of parliament, 
 in conjunction with Forres, Nairn, and Fortrose, four hundred and eighty-nine. 
 
 Among the chief objects of attraction in the environs, are Craig Phadrick, 
 and Ord-hill of Kessock, vitrified forts ; Tomnaheurich, CuUoden Moor, basin 
 and entrance of the Caledonian Canal, Druidical Temple of Leys, and Battle- 
 hill of Torv'ain.* Of these, Craig Phadrick has been long an object of philo- 
 sophical speculation, as to its being the vrork of human art or the result of 
 volcanic action. In support of the latter hypothesis. Dr. Johnson, who examined 
 the hill only two years ago, has spoken decidedly. f 
 
 The hill is surrounded with a wall in the form of a parallelogram, about eighty 
 yards long, and thirty in breadth. The stones are all firmly cemented by a 
 vitrified matter, like lava, or the scoria of an iron foundry, the substance of the 
 stones being, in many places, softened and vitrified — in some parts partially, 
 in others entirely. Where the fusion is imperfect, the stones are embedded 
 in the vitreous substance. Those who are familiar with volcanic phenomena 
 are most likely to adopt that theory, and to conclude that, in the formation 
 of the conical hills of Scotland, subterranean fire has had more to do than 
 superincumbent water. From the level summit of this hill the view of the 
 sea-coast is very beautiful. 
 
 Tomnaheurich is a beautiful insulated hill, wearing its sylvan coronet of trees, 
 and in popular tradition the favourite rendezvous of " moonlight elves," and 
 the tomb of Thomas the Rhymer. As an alluvial relic, it forms an interesting 
 
 • The other objects lying within a day's excursion, and which will be noticed under their proper lieads, 
 are, Fort George, and Fort Augustus ; Falls of Foyers, and Kilmorrack ; Castles Stewart, Dalcross, Cawdor, 
 and Urquhart ; Stone Monuments at Clava, Roman Station at Bona, &c. 
 
 t " In my own mind," says our distinguished author, " not a shadow of doubt remains that Craig Phadrick 
 is a volcanic mountain ; that its summit was the crater of an extinct volcano ; that advantage was taken 
 of the locality to form a fort, or place of defence ; and that the rocks were vitrified by subterranean fire, 
 not by human art. That the masses of lava now existing on the summit and sides of Craig Phadrick were 
 vitrified by Roman, Celt, or Sassenach, is about as probable as that the basaltic columns of Staffa were 
 baked like bricks, in the cave of Fingal, or that the Giant's Causeway was fused in a tinker's crucible." 
 " But," says Mr. Anderson, in his notice of this passage, " i'. might as well be said that all the conglo- 
 merated sand-stone ridges between Speymouth and Mealfourvoney, and thence to the Kyle of Sutherland, 
 are volcanic; for Craig- Phadric, one of these, in no respect differs in general composition from the rest.'' 
 P. 618. The most recent theory advocated (and especially with much success, by Sir George Mackenzie, 
 Bart., of Coul,) is, that the vitrification of these forts was caused by ancient Beacos-Fires." To this propo- 
 sition the traditions of the country, and the practice of its inhabitants to the present day, give much 
 countenance.
 
 THE FIELD OF CULLODEN. 4-i 
 
 object for the geologist, while it offers a pleasing feature in the landscape. Its 
 summit, quite flat, and commanding the town and surrounding scenery, is a 
 helvider on which the landscape-loving tourist will be delighted to take his 
 station. This remarkable fragment appears to have resisted the force of those 
 primeval torrents which ploughed their way through the Great Glen, and swept 
 away those mountain barriers originally interposed between sea and sea. It stands 
 as a monument of the catastrophe ; and having survived, as if by miracle, the 
 dissolving floods that stripped the surrounding surface to a depth of two hundred 
 and fifty feet, may well be supposed to inspire superstitious belief. It is 
 compared to a ship with the keel upwards, and scattered with trees instead of 
 sea-weed. Perhaps nothing can convey a clearer idea of its singular appear- 
 ance and position than to compare it to an ark that had ridden out the storm, 
 but remained stranded on the secession of the waters. Dr. Johnson has made 
 it the subject of an amusing legend, in which it is made to figure as the sleeping- 
 station of an original " Rip Van Winkel." 
 
 Among the objects which excite a very different interest in this neighbour- 
 hood, CuUoden Moor is that which has acquired a mournful familiarity in the 
 page of national disasters. It was the closing scene in that fearful drama in 
 which the efforts of the Stuart dynasty were finally overcome, and the brave 
 followers of an " exiled house" exposed to every calamity that could afflict the 
 conquered. With the heath, and its undulating ridges of graves expanding 
 before us, it requires little effort of fancy to conjure up the last struggle, and 
 the carnage that followed. Wherever we turn, the words of the seer are 
 forcibly recalled — 
 
 ... "A field of the dead rushes red on my sight, 
 And the clans of CuUoden are scattered in fight ; 
 Proud Cumberland prances, insulting the slain. 
 And their hoof-beaten bosoms are trod to the plain." 
 
 After the battle of Falkirk, already adverted to. Prince Charles Stuart having 
 failed to take advantage of those circumstances which were seemingly at his dis- 
 posal, continued his retreat upon Inverness, and here, in April, 1 746, took up his 
 last position, where his cause had excited the warmest interest. The duke of 
 Cumberland having drawn together a large army, and anxious to realize 
 the flattering expectations which parliament entertained of his generalship, 
 speedily followed in the same track. An engagement, now eagerly expected 
 by the rival forces, was to he directed on each side by the presence of a royal 
 leader. The army of Prince Charles, however, was far from being under 
 strict discipline ; a spirit of insubordination manifested itself among the clans,
 
 44- SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 while dissensions, jealousies, and open quarrels, precluded all hearty coopera- 
 tion among the chiefs. The army of the royal Duke, in the mean time, was in 
 good order, well provisioned, confident under the auspices of their new leader, 
 and anxious to retrieve the credit they had forfeited on a recent occasion. 
 
 On the evening preceding the engagement. Prince Charles, with the ofRcers 
 of his staff, took up his quarters in Culloden House. The same night, a 
 project having been formed to surprise the Duke, the army wasted its time 
 and strength in a fruitless expedition to this effect, and had to resume its 
 position in an almost exhausted state between five and six in the morning. 
 The men had received no pay for a month ; and the only ration distributed 
 the preceding day was a biscuit to each man. The night-march had been severe, 
 and with nothing to refresh them on their return, a painful scene ensued. 
 Many of the men threw themselves hastily down for a few minutes' sleep, while 
 others, impelled by hunger, went in search of provisions for themselves and 
 comrades. But at this very juncture, an express arrived to state that the duke's 
 army was in full march upon Culloden. At this intelligence every chief hastened 
 to his post ; the stragglers were recalled, the sleeping roused from their brief 
 repose, and a muster of about five thousand troops drawn up on the moor, with 
 some small field-pieces on their right. 
 
 The rival force, amounting to little short of nine thousand, made its appear- 
 ance on the verge of the heath. Its imposing front, flanked by a park of artillery, 
 and supported by troops of horse, was speedily formed and distributed in 
 order of battle. A sharp cannonade on the part of the Highland army opened 
 hostilities, but, the guns being ill served, the shot was at last slack and defective, 
 while a galling fire from the English carried death and disorder into the prince's 
 van. Impatient of this slow and murderous operation, and maddened by the 
 sight of their falling comrades, the Highlanders, with characteristic impetuosity, 
 rushed to the charge. The Duke's right wing met the shock, and recoiled from 
 the weight of the column ; but, soon reinforced by two battaUons from the line, 
 again made head and stemmed the torrent. Hereupon, changing the point of 
 attack, the Highlanders threw their whole weight upon the Duke's left wing, 
 making a strong effort to flank the front line. But in this manoeuvre they were 
 again foiled by the advance of Wolfe's regiment, and exposed to a murderous 
 fire from the artillery. In the mean time, a passage being forced through the 
 park wall on the right, the royal cavalry were immediately brought into action, 
 the Prince's corps of reserve dispersed, and the others, having to support 
 a charge of horse, front and rear, were thrown into disorder. A scene of 
 unsparing carnage succeeded. The heavy dragoons, finding little to resist them
 
 THE BATTLE OF CULLODEN. 45 
 
 in the masses of infantry that now pressed upon each other in helpless confusion, 
 indulged the spirit of revenge to its full extent. But the Highlanders did not 
 sink under the iron hoof and sabre of the horsemen unavenged ; although 
 entirely broken, in a military sense, they were still unsubdued in spirit.* Here 
 and there, like a stag at bay, turning desperately on their pursuers, they cut their 
 reins, wounded their horses, and, in falling, dragged the troopers to the ground. 
 Others, maimed and bleeding on the ground, but with sufficient life remaining 
 to render them formidable even in that miserable condition, sprang convulsively 
 from the earth as one of the exterminating horsemen approached, and plunging 
 his dirk into the charger's flank, brought his insulting enemy to the ground. 
 Scattered at short distances, detached groups of the clans — almost buried 
 in the mass of horse that charged them — stood back to back, the buckler in 
 one hand and the broadsword in the other, and forming in appearance a sort 
 of armed testudo, made desperate but ineffectual struggles to retrieve the fate 
 of the day. Their sable plumes and waving tartans, surged for a time in 
 rapid agitation, then, gradually sinking under the irresistible shock of cavalry, 
 disappeared like rocks in the continued rush of an overwhelming tide. Others 
 of the clans, struck with panic at a scene which threatened annihilation to their 
 cause, fled like deer before the hunter, and were cut down without even an 
 effort to resist, or a prayer for mercy. It was a mo^'ing sight to observe with 
 what native dignity the worsted but still unvanquished Celt met his fate. 
 Disabled by wounds, or exhausted by fatigue, he drew himself up feebly on 
 the ground, clenched the still bloody but useless steel, extended his target, and 
 with the attitude and expression of a dying gladiator, perished in the succeeding 
 charge. Others, unable to rise from the ground, but keenly ahve to the scene 
 passing before them, followed with eager eyes the standard of the prince ; but 
 at last, seeing the tartan — the badge of heroic clanship — and " the blue bonnets 
 of the north," strewn around them like leaves in a sudden tempest, the sight 
 was heart-breaking. The spectacle of their prince and their chiefs crushed in 
 evil hour,- inflicted an agony more poignant than their wounds, and falling 
 
 • Never was the peculiar and irresistible power of a charge of Highlanders more fearlessly displayed 
 than in this their last feudal engagement on their native hills. It was the emphatic custom before an 
 onset, says a spirited historian of this rebellion, to scrug their bonnets— that is, to pull their little blue 
 caps down over their brows, so as to ensure them against falling oif in the ensuing melie. Never, perhaps, 
 was this motion performed with so much emphasis as on the present occasion, when every man's forehead 
 burned with the desire fr avenge some dear friend who had fallen a victim to the murderous artillery. A 
 Lowland gentleman who was in the ^ine, and who survived till a late period, used always, in relating the 
 events of CuUoden, to comment, with a feeling of something like awe, upon the terrific and more than 
 natural expression of rage which glowed on every cheek, and gleamed in every eye, as he surveyed the 
 extended line at this moment.— CAamders. 
 
 VOL. n. N
 
 46 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 backwards on the bloody turf, they died " with their feet to the foe." But 
 we need not here indulge in individual scenes ; the entire field was now an 
 arena where as mournful a tragedy was enacted as ever drew tears from a 
 widowed mother. The shriU note of the bagpipe, the clang of the bugle, and 
 the shouts of infuriated troopers, brought at once tidings of triumph and retreat. 
 Cumberland remained in possession of the field, and on that field lay a thousand 
 gallant clansmen who had surrendered their lives — victims of a mistaken loyalty.* 
 
 The Prince, who had now witnessed the destruction of his army and the death- 
 blow to his cause, was hurried off" the field by the officers of his staflT, and 
 consigned, as a fugitive, to those natural fastnesses where alone the royal name of 
 Stuart was still revered. His adventures during the period which followed have 
 furnished as noble a record of manly fortitude and endurance as ever did honour 
 to human nature. Denounced, and destitute of the most common necessaries — 
 thirt}' thousand pounds offered for him, alive or dead — pursuing only the most 
 lonely tracks — there sleeping in caves, and here soliciting shelter in some solitary 
 cabin — his life, from that of a prince, was suddenly encompassed with every 
 danger which could threaten him as an outlaw — with every privation that could 
 afflict the body — every circumstance that could distract the mind. Those who 
 affect to despise his pretensions as an aspirant to the throne, cannot refuse him, 
 as a man, the tribute of their respect and admiration. 
 
 The victory was decisive ;f but the glory to which the victors laid claim was 
 sullied with the greatest inhumanity. The wounded and defenceless were cut 
 down without distinction. Those who had merely assembled as spectators, 
 shared in the disasters of the field. The cry of " no quarter" spread conster- 
 nation among the flying, while it sanctioned the pursuers in the work of carnage. 
 The Highland garb — whether of the unarmed peasant or the hostile clansman 
 — was a fatal signal to the wearer. The accents of the " mountain tongue" 
 were answered by the shouts of extermination ; and he who counted most 
 victims showed the greatest loyalty. Vengeance was now the word ; and seldom 
 has a retreat presented scenes of cold-blooded ferocity like that from Culloden 
 Moor. That these were to be charged rather to the officers than the men, 
 and most to the commander, is undeniable. The occasion offered one of the 
 
 * The French piquets stationed on the right took no share in the engagement, but intimidated by the 
 disastrous commencement, remained passive witnesses of the conflict, and at its close, surrendered them- 
 selves prisoners of war. This inactivity, however, was neither to be attributed to want of courage, or 
 want of Zf al in the cause ; but to a conviction that no sacrifice of life could retrieve the honours of the day. 
 
 + Prince Charles's resources, notwithstanding the loss of this battle, were by no means desperate ; eight 
 thousand men were ready to meet him at Ruthven, in Bodenoch, had he signified his desire to renew the 
 strife, — Anderson,
 
 CULLODEN MOOR. — NIGHT-SCENE. 47 
 
 finest opportunities for the exercise of clemency ever presented to a victorious 
 commander ;* but the divine attribute of mercy was not a military virtue in the 
 estimation of the leader. The noble maxim to spare the vanquished had no 
 place in his catechism ; he drew no distinction between actual treason and 
 mistaken loyalty ; between intentional guilt and error of judgment ; between 
 the vassal who fought in obedience to his chief, and the mercenary who betrayed 
 his allegiance. His sole aim was to restore peace by forming a solitude ; to 
 establish authority by leaving none to resist. 
 
 The wounded were abandoned during three days to all the horrors of a 
 lingering death, denied assistance, and a prey to all that mental and corporeal 
 sufferings could inflict. The distracted friend or relative who stole forth at 
 midnight to administer relief, ran imminent hazard of being shot as a rebel, 
 and of taking his grave by the side of him for whose sake he had risked his life. 
 Few could elude the vigilance of the sentinels stationed along every avenue 
 leading to the Moor, and of those few who did, still fewer returned. The silence 
 of the night scene was more appalling than the heat of the conflict. As the 
 visitor approached the dismal heath, a thrill of horror rushed through his frame. 
 The mingled sounds of agony and despair struck fitfully upon his ear ; but all 
 modified by the nature of the wounds, or the vigour of mind and constitution 
 possessed by the survivors. One implored him for a drop of water ; one, 
 driven frantic with excessive pain, raved of the prince, and brandished in his 
 hand the fancied trophies of victory. Another, fully alive to the horrors of his 
 situation, invoked the names of his chief and his kindred, urging them to avenge 
 his cause, and then, exhausted by the frantic effort, sank into a death-like 
 torpor. A third spoke not, but pointed to the comelj' but disfigured coun- 
 tenance of one whose youth bespoke him a younger brother. They lay singly, 
 and in groups, as they had fallen — the living unable to extricate themselves 
 from the dead, and the dead retaining in their features that expression which 
 the last agitating passion had left. 
 
 In this situation the wounded were left to perish on the field. Those who 
 survived the third day, were shot by command of the duke of Cumberland, whose 
 officers were charged with the execution of this sanguinary order. The accom- 
 panying plate represents the murderous proceeding. In pursuance of the same 
 order, a barn, in which the maimed and dying, having crawled from the field, 
 lay huddled together, was set fire to, and its miserable inmates consumed in the 
 
 • In the town of Inverness, the duke instituted a complete military government — treated the magistrates 
 and inhabitants with contempt; and he was afterwards obliged to sue out an act of indemnity from the 
 British parliament for these and other atrocities, of which it is notoriously known he was guilty. — Anderson.
 
 48 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 flames. Had this taken place in the heat of battle, as at Hougumont, where 
 the spirit of resistance was still maintained by those inclosed, the fact would 
 have been written down as one of those catastrophes which no humanity could 
 prevent ; but in the present instance the battle had long ceased — resistance was 
 at an end — the royal authority was recognised — and Cumberland might have 
 reposed on his laurels, honoured, if not respected ; and, if not popular, yet in 
 the full enjoyment of power. By aspiring to those traits which show the avenger, 
 he lost sight of all that magnanimity which should distinguish the victor ; 
 dissatisfied with the mere honour of victory, he neutralized its fame by the 
 infamy of a massacre. It has been said, that if mercy were banished from the 
 earth it should find a resting-place in the hearts of princes ; but the royal 
 leader in the present instance was insensible to its pleadings, and in the means 
 adopted to render himself terrible in the eyes of the people, he became odious. 
 Such conduct threw a qualifying shade over the lustre of conquest, and by 
 degrading the illustrious personage from the character of a hero, avenged the 
 people whom he had sacrificed. 
 
 " Mais pourquoi rappeler cette tristevictoire? 
 Que ne puis-je plut6t ravir k la memoire 
 Les crueis monumens de ces affreux succis!" 
 
 Parties of the military were sent into every district whose chiefs were supposed 
 to have been concerned in the rebellion, to burn, plunder, and lay waste the 
 country; and in this their orders were executed to the letter. The Duke in 
 the mean time reached the highest degree of popularity ; in the south, his victory 
 of CuUoden was regarded as a brilliant example of generalship, and the conqueror 
 was flattered by every token of public admiration.* But the honour so liberally 
 awarded him, and those high talents for which the parliament gave him 
 unbounded credit, were eventually proved to be rash and unfounded. In proof 
 of this, we need only allude to his royal highness's capitulation when opposed 
 by a French general at Closter Severn. The letters written by him to the 
 
 countess of expose his memory to ridicule. That other great men 
 
 have not done the same, we presume not to say ; some of our most distinguished 
 
 * After the battle of CuUoJen, most of the old signs of naval and military heroes gaveway to the Head 
 of Duke William. " I was yesterday out of town," says Horace Walpole in a letter to Mr. Conway, dated 
 April 16, 17t7, " and the very signs at the inns, as I passed through the villages, made me make very 
 quaint reflections on the mortality of fame and popularity ! I observed how the ' Duke of Cumberhmd's Head' 
 had succeeded almost universally to ' Admiral Vernon's,' and his had left but few traces of the ' Duke of 
 Ormond's.' I pondered these things in my heart, and said to myself, Surely all glory is but as the sian 
 over an inn door .'"
 
 PRINCE CHARLES STUART. 49 
 
 Statesmen and heroes have acted inconsistently with the characters they had won ; 
 but then they had great virtues to throw into the scale, which established an 
 immense balance in their favour. 
 
 Of Prince Charles — whose adventures after the battle of Culloden, the 
 " Flodden" of the North, are universally known — we need only add, that after 
 innumerable hardships and hair-breadth escapes, he succeeded, with about a 
 hundred of his friends, in securing his retreat to France in a privateer engaged 
 for that purpose. It is worthy of remark, as a trait that reflects immortal 
 honour on the people of the Highlands, that during his wanderings amongst 
 them. Prince Charles had occasion to entrust his life to more than fifty individuals 
 — many of them poor and destitute — but not one of whom was tempted either 
 by the enormous bribe offered, or intimidated by the continual vigilance of their 
 enemies, to betray his path or lurking-place. 
 
 A person of the name of M'lan — to whose cottage the prince went and threw 
 himself on his protection — though no friend to his cause, watched over hini 
 for several weeks with inviolable fidelity. What renders this fact still more 
 remarkable is, that M'lan, whose famQy were at the time in a state of starvation, 
 was compelled to the dire necessity of robbing in order to support the prince — 
 of robbing, too, at the risk of his hfe, when a word or sign would have raised him 
 to opulence, and to special favour with government. It is. a melancholy fact 
 to add, in conclusion to such unparalleled fidelity, that this poor man was 
 afterwards brought to the gallows for having, during a season of great severity, 
 stolen a cow to keep lus family alive, and when he had only one choice left, to 
 rob or to starve. A Httle before his execution, he took off his bonnet and said 
 — " I thank God that, although condemned to suffer death for an offence com- 
 mitted under the pressure of want, I have never betrayed a trust — never 
 injured the poor — never refused to share my last morsel with the stranger and 
 the needy." On having the circumstance represented to him, the king was 
 said to have expressed much regret that the sentence had been carried into 
 execution, and to have added, that, had the case been reported to him in proper 
 time, the poor man should have been placed in a situation where he would have 
 had no temptation to rob for his subsistence. 
 
 We now proceed to Fort George occupying the eastern extremity of the county 
 which projects into the Moray Frith.* It was built at the disastrous period 
 
 • In pursuing this route, the antiquary will find the ancient baronial residence of Dalcross Castle an 
 object of attraction. It consists of two towers, joined at right angles, the inner corner where thev meet 
 being covered with a projecting turret and large entrance gate. In the front court is a deep draw-well ; the 
 windows are staunchioned with iron ; it has a huge oaken door, with inner iron gratings; the kitchen, with 
 its enormous vaulted chimney, is like the arch of a bridge ; the dungeons and the hall are quite perfect. 
 VOL. II. O
 
 50 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 just named, by command of the duke of Cumberland, and covers a space of 
 ten Scotch acres. The fortifications are regular, and, Like others composing 
 the hain of forts built to check any future rise on the part of the Highlanders, 
 were finished under the direction of the best engineers of the day. It is consi- 
 dered a model iu this respect, and equal in all but extent to the continental 
 forts on the plan of the celebrated Vauban. It contains barracks for more than 
 two thousand troops, exclusive of houses for the governor and officers ; and is 
 amply provided with all the accommodations to be found in the best fortification 
 in the kingdom. The buildings unite great strength and solidity with elegance 
 of execution ; but the stranger is tempted to wish that the vast sums there 
 expended had been employed in some work of more permanent advantage — 
 something that, while it kept them in check, might have promoted the interests 
 of the Highlands. While this vast citadel was erecting, famine was severely 
 felt in the surrounding districts — the cottages were in ruins, the land uncul- 
 tivated, and the survivors still suffering firom tlie violence employed against them 
 at the close of the rebellion. Having answered the purpose of their erection, 
 these formidable bastions now serve only to recall the circumstance which caused 
 them. The fort stands like a mailed veteran in the midst of peaceful citizens, 
 and as if longing for war, like sailors for a fair wind. 
 
 The breadth of the Frith at this point is upwards of a mile ; and immediately 
 above the fortress it presents the appearance of a spacious basin, or inland 
 lake. The communication with the opposite coast of Cromarty is kept up by 
 ferry-boats, the security of which is provided for by a jetty projecting from the 
 fort into the sea. The village of Cambelltown, which says more for the modern 
 improvement of the Highlands than its forts, occupies the lower end of the 
 peninsula, and has risen into importance under the protection of the house 
 of Cawdor. 
 
 Fortrose, on tlie opposite side of the Frith, is remarkable as a free town, 
 and as the ancient seat of the Catholic bishops of Ross, whose palace was com- 
 pletely destroyed, the cathedral greatly damaged, and its fine bells, as already 
 
 The ceiling of tlie latter is of fine carved oak, in part rudely painted : but its most interesting feature is the 
 dah, or portion of the floor raised above the rest, for the special use of the lord of the manor, his family, 
 and principal guests. The roof of one of the bedrooms was painted all over with the coats-of-arms of the 
 principal families in the country. Those of Robert Bruce, of the earls of Huntly, Marischal, and Stuart, 
 are slill quite distinct. This castle was built by Simon, eighth Lord Lovat, in 1620. Castle-Stewart 
 is a fine specimen of the castellated mansion, and has been restored to much of its ancient beauty by tjie 
 timely interference of the earl of Moray. The precise period of its erection is disputed. By some it is 
 said to have been a favorite residence of James IV., and built as .1 hunting seat. Others assert that the 
 Kegent Moray was its founder, and tliat Queen Mary occasionally honoured it with her presence. — See the 
 description at full by Messrs. Anderson. — Guide lo the Highlands, pp. 112, 113.
 
 BEAULY. — FALLS OF KILMORACK. 51 
 
 mentioned, transported to Inverness, by order of Cromwell. Here resided 
 the celebrated historian. Bishop Leslie — the biographer. Dr. Gregory Mackenzie 
 — and another physician of the same name, author of " The Art of preserving 
 Health." Here the famous Scottish law'j'er and statesman. Sir George 
 Mackenzie, often retired from courts and senates, to enjoy the delightful and 
 secluded walks. And here, also, the late Sir James Mackintosh, the well- 
 known historian and eloquent senator, received the rudiments of his education. 
 The magnificent valley of Beauly — a plain nearly two miles wide, watered 
 by the broad sweeping river of that name, and encompassed by a ring of high 
 terraced banks — is a scene on which the eye reposes with peculiar delight. 
 The surface of the plain, and the sides of the hill which slope down to it, are 
 elegantly chequered with cultivated fields, and dense woods of birch and fir. 
 On the west, where the acclivities approach each other, the eye penetrates 
 the gorge of a rocky opening, through which the descending waters form the 
 picturesque falls of Kilmorack. The lower falls are situate about two miles 
 from the village of Beauly, immediately beneath the parish church. They are 
 less remarkable for their height than for breadth and volume, and for the 
 beautiful accompaniments of lofty rocks, smooth green banks, and hanging 
 woods, which encircle them. The river, dashing from between two lofty 
 precipices, where it is confined to an extremely narrow channel, suddenly 
 expands into an open semicircular basin, through which it slowly glides, and 
 is then precipitated over its lower edge in a series of small cataracts.* 
 
 The next group of waterfalls occurs about three miles up the river, at the 
 top of a most romantic ride, called the Drhuim. This, in character, is the 
 most completely Highland and beautiful part of the course of the Beauly river. 
 On either hand the mountain acclivities are steep and rocky, and the inter- 
 mediate valley not above four hundred yards in breadth. Woods of birch and 
 fir encompass the whole scene, especially on the north side ; and the edges of 
 the river are fringed all along with rows of oak, weeping birch, and alder. In 
 one part, half way up the strath, near the cottage of Teanassie, the waters 
 plunge through a rocky passage encircling high pyramids of stone, slanting up 
 in isolated masses in the midst of the stream — gigantic witnesses of its ceaseless 
 and consuming power. This is the point represented in the annexed engraving. 
 
 • The bridge of Lovat which spans the Beauly, is a handsome modern structure, and highly ornamental 
 in the landscape. The surface of the opposite hill is diversified with small patches of corn land, allotted 
 by Sir Simon Fraser, of Lovat, to the veteran soldiers of his clan who had served under him in the 
 American war; thus securing a substaniial provision for his dependents by a slight tax on their industry 
 —the best of all pensions, and redounding to the lasting honour of the chief.
 
 52 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Immediately below this scene, the turmoil of the waters subsides into smooth 
 dark linns, while the rocks at the same time recede and give place to daisied 
 banks, and sweet patches of corn-fields. 
 
 On the southern bank of the river, on a high conical mound, rising above a 
 perpendicular sheet of rock, is the vitrified structure of Dunfion,* recently thrown 
 open to public inspection by the taste and liberality of Mr. Fraser, of Lovat, 
 who has also formed a beautiful drive along his own side of the river, so as to 
 include this interesting and romantic scenery. At the further end of the 
 Drhuim, the road begins to ascend towards the interior of the country ; and 
 here the river is seen pouring down on each side of a liigh rounded hill, covered 
 with oak and birch, at the lower extremity of which it forms the second set of 
 small but beautiful cataracts. This wooded hill is the island of Aigas — for 
 the river parts into two and encircles it — noted as having been the temporary 
 retreat to which Simon, the last Lord Lovat, conducted the dowager Lady Lovat, 
 whom he had forced to become his wife — when letters of fire and sword were 
 issued against liim, and the principal families of his clan, by King William, 
 in 1697.t 
 
 The ancient Priory of Beauly stands on a fertile spot near the brink of the 
 river, surrounded by aged trees, which give to its venerable walls an air of 
 congenial sanctity and seclusion. The name, beau lieu, was no doubt suggested 
 by the beauty of the situation. It was founded in 1230 by John Bisset, of 
 Lovat, but received various additions from his successor. The monks belonged 
 to the order of Valliscaulium, a reform of the Cistercian, and following the 
 rule of St. Benoit, or Benedict. They were introduced from France by Malvoisin, 
 bishop of St. Andrews, about the period above named ; and established also 
 at Pluscardine in Elginshire, and Ardchattan in Argyll. They led an austere 
 and solitary life, and afibrded, says Mr. Anderson, " an asylum within these 
 walls to many natives of the Highlands, whom either bodily infirmity, or a 
 distaste for the coarse manners of their countrymen, disqualified for more active 
 occupations. The remains of an orchard still attest the fertility of the ground, 
 and the attention which the good old monks paid to horticulture. At the 
 Reformation, when the last prior resigned it along with his lands in trust to 
 Lord Lovat, its revenues were considerable. It is now a mere shell ; the roof 
 is fallen in, the area occupied with rubbish, and the closely set graves of the 
 Clan Fraser and their alhes. Beside the high altar repose the ashes of the 
 
 • The cross sctions of this vitrified (oit displayed several layers of charcoa, earth, and bones. 
 •(■ See the description of this and the adjacent scenery in the highly interesting " Guide to the Highlands," 
 already quoted ; — an indispensable Vade-Mecum for the northern counties.
 
 INVEUFARRAKAIG. — ALTSAV BURN. 5i5 
 
 old chiefs ; and near tlieni those of the principal branches of the Frasers, the 
 Chisholms, and other tribes in the adjacent valleys. The variety of figures on 
 the more ancient tombstones is considerable ; some elegantly carved, and many 
 of the inscriptions in the ancient Saxon character. The north aisle belongs 
 exclusively to the Mackenzies of Gairloch. The effigy of a knight, recumbent, 
 in full armour, marks the resting-place of Sir Kenneth Mackenzie, who died 
 in 1493, and was the first chief of that name interred here ; all his ancestors 
 having been buried in lona. 
 
 We now return to those points of view in the vicinity of Loch-Ness to which 
 the accompanying illustrations have immediate reference. Of these, the first 
 is the Pass of Inverfarrakaig — a defile which, in many respects, may vie with 
 some of the minor passes of the Swiss Alps. It has all the characteristics 
 usually observed in that country, glaciers excepted ; and presents a combination 
 of features rising in striking gradation, from the softness of cultivated landscape, 
 through the difierent stages of the beautiful, the picturesque, and romantic, 
 till it closes the picture with those sublime and stupendous bulwarks with which 
 Nature appears to exclude the habitable world. There is nothing in the High- 
 lands, says an able writer, more picturesquely beautiful, wild, or even stupendous, 
 than the Pass of Inverfarrakaig. Woods of birch line the bottom of the deep 
 ravine, from which a few groups and single trees extend along the face of the 
 precipitous rocks above, waving their graceful twigs like flowery garlands along 
 the mountain's brow, and blending in harmonious colouring their own bright 
 green with the grey stone, purple heath, and the azure blue of the incumbent 
 sky. At the entrance of the Pass, and for a considerable space, the eastern 
 side consists of a range of perpendicular and rugged precipices, in the crevices 
 of which a few straggling knotted oak, ash, birch, and elm trees, maintain a 
 precarious footing. As Loch-Ness comes into view, the high and broad frontlet 
 of the Black Rock, surmounting an ample birch-clad acclivity, terminates the 
 range of precipices, and crowning its summit, we discern the green-coloured 
 walls of the ancient vitrified fortress of Dundarduil. 
 
 The accompanying illustration of Altsay-burn, presents an incident in one of 
 the most sanguinary feuds ever recorded in the annals of Inverness-shire. The 
 historical circumstance to which it refers, is the barbarous outrage emphatically 
 known as the " Raid of CiUie-Christ." In the early part of the seventeenth 
 century, Angus, eldest son of the Glengarry chief, MacdoneU, had made a 
 foray into the territory of the clan Mackenzie, in the Frith of Beauly, with 
 whom the Macdonells were at war. On his way home from this fatal expe- 
 dition, the heir of Glengarry was intercepted and slain, vnth several of his 
 
 VOL. II. P
 
 54 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 followers, by a party of Mackenzies. To revenge his death, a strong body of 
 Glengarry men were despatched under Allan Mac Raonuill, of Lundy, who led 
 tiieni immediately across the hills, into the country of their enemies. Marching 
 under favour of night, they reached the scene of premeditated revenge early 
 on Sunday morning; and, having ascertained that a numerous company of 
 Mackenzies were then assembled in the chapel of CilHe-Christ, near Beauly, 
 resolved to take advantage of the circumstance for the execution of their 
 diabolical purpose. Having surrounded the sacred walls with sentinels, and 
 secured every door and aperture by which the unsuspecting congregation might 
 effect their escape, they set fire to the edifice in several places, and in a few 
 minutes the house of prayer was blazing like a funeral pile. Lips, on which 
 the orison was still unfinished, now gave vent to the wildest shrieks of despair. 
 The wail of women and children — the groans of the men — the glare of the flames, 
 as the crackling roof crumbled in their devouring grasp — the dense volumes of 
 smoke checkered with red streaks, that at length concentrated into a blaze — 
 the hurrying from aisle to altar, from door to window — the ejaculations of 
 despair — the gaspings for breath — and finally the seething heart-streams bursting 
 their receptacles — all formed a picture from vihich the mind shrinks appalled. 
 The sacrilege, also, with which it was accompanied, invests the scene with 
 a still deeper horror. The Macdonells looked on with complacence ; and 
 as the shrieks of their tortured and expiring victims rose wildly upon the ear, 
 they were answered by shouts of triumph and the shrill notes of the pibroch,* 
 which mocked their agony with a funeral dirge. Men, women, and children, 
 were sacrificed without distinction ; and what the fire would have spared, the 
 sword thrust back into the flames. Not an individual escaped. Those who 
 in the morning had met here, a numerous and happy congregation, were a mass 
 of smouldering ashes at noon. 
 
 The perpetrators of this atrocious deed, enjoying the dastardly satisfaction 
 of having avenged their wrongs, retired from the scene like troops after a victory, 
 but like troops who dreaded reprisals. Vengeance, indeed, was already mus- 
 tering her strength: the fire in which the Mackenzies were sacrificed, served 
 as a gathering beacon to the clan. Every man who could bear a sword now 
 drew it forth, and, casting away the scabbard, rushed to the pursuit. Dividing 
 their force into two bodies, one followed the track along the south side of 
 Loch-Ness; while the other, crossing the mountains to the north bank of the lake, 
 
 ♦ The miserable victims found all attempts at escape unavailing, and were, without a single exception — 
 man, woman, or child — swallowed up by the devouring element, or indiscriminately massacred by the 
 swords of the relentless Macdonells ; whilst a plp:'r marched round the church, plar/ing an extemporary piece 
 of music, which has ever since been the pibroch of the Glengarry family. — Anderson.
 
 1
 
 ALTSAY BURN. — RAID OF C'lLLI i;-CHRIST. 55 
 
 pursued the first division of the jMacdonells, under tlieir leader, Mac Raonuill. 
 Stimulated by revenge, they continued the chase without intermission; and at 
 length overtook the guilty fugitives near Altsay-burn, where they had ventured to 
 halt for refreshment. The hostile clans, mutually fatigued in body, but still burn- 
 ing with revenge, rushed upon each other with the most deadly rancour. But 
 the Macdonells, who had already exhausted their revenge, and were consequently 
 more enfeebled, could not resist the fury of their opponents, to whom the 
 prospect of immediate retaliation had given strength of arm and swiftness of 
 foot. The conflict was maintained for some time with mutual fury ; but at 
 length the Macdonells, overpowered by numbers, were driven into the burti, 
 or torrent, where many of them, missing the ford, or impeded by the rugged 
 rocks by which its channel is encumbered, were overtaken and slain by the 
 Mackenzies. Mac Raonuill, a man of athletic frame, having made good his 
 retreat to a point where the torrent rushes through a chasm of great depth 
 and breadth, took a desperate leap, cleared the abyss, and landed safe on the 
 opposite bank. One of the Mackenzies, hot in pursuit, but with less of the 
 wild stag in his limbs than the Macdonell leader, and blinded, perhaps, to the 
 danger by the hope of overtaking his prize, followed at a venture. The attempt 
 failed : his feet fell short of the brink ; but catching fast hold of a birch sapling, 
 he broke his fall, and hung dangling over the abyss that boiled beneath him. 
 Turning round and seeing his pursuer in this critical state of suspension, Mac 
 Raonuill coolly drew his dirk, approached the tree, and with a smile of demoniac 
 satisfaction at the despair of his victim, lopped off the branch, and dropped 
 him into the gulf beneath. " There," said he, with deadly sarcasm, " I have 
 left much behind me with ye to-day — take that too !" This done, his athletic 
 limbs carried him considerably ahead of his pursuers ; till, reaching the cool 
 margin of the lake, he plunged in, breasted the waters for some time, and was 
 finally picked up by a boat to which he made signals. 
 
 The worsted party of the Macdonells, who had figured in the morning 
 tragedy, and now fled by Inverness, were surprised in a public-house by the 
 other detachment of Mackenzies, who made sure of their prey. The building 
 was surrounded — the doors and windows secured — lighted matches applied to 
 the thatch : the flames burst forth in an instant ; and in these flames thirty- 
 seven of the Macdonells did penance for the atrocious proceedings of the morn- 
 ing. — Such was the Raid of Cillie-Christ, or Christ-church, and such the speedy 
 retribution by which it was followed. It is a revolting picture of the barbarous 
 state of society at that period, and of the excesses into which the rival clans 
 were perpetually hurried by the impulse of ungovernable passions.
 
 56 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Loch-Ness, along whose glittering expanse the business of commerce is now 
 directed by the new impulse of steam, occupies the Great Valley for more than 
 twenty miles. The scenery in which it is embedded presents a succession of grand 
 and imposing features — pastoral acclivities, picturesque rocks, woods and water- 
 falls, dark ravines and dismal precipices, from which the frequent torrent dashes 
 with its foaming tribute to the lake. Here and there, isolated rocks, starting 
 forth like landmarks in the forest, bear testimony to the awful convulsion by 
 which the ancient mountains were split, and when the lake sprang forth betvveen 
 the disruptured banks. The whole chain of these lakes occupies one vast chasm, 
 through which the sea must have forced its way, and thus divided the country 
 into two distinct portions.* The scenery of Loch-Ness, although generally 
 hue, from whatever point it may be contemplated, is most so when viewed fi'om 
 the north shore, instead of the deck of the steamer. In the former case, owing 
 to the doublings and undulations of the road, every turn presents the lake under 
 a different aspect, and adds some new feature to the landscape. The waters of the 
 lake fill the whole interval between the mountains, which dip so suddenly, that, 
 within a hundred yards of the shore, the depth is often forty or fifty fathoms. 
 Towards the centre, soundings have been made to the depth of one hundred 
 and thirty fathoms — a fact which fiiUy accounts for its never freezing ; for even 
 a Highland winter is too short to reduce so great a depth and volume of 
 water to the point of congelation. After long continued rains, the lake has 
 been known to rise eight or ten feet above its natural level. It abounds 
 in trout. The water, though considered salubrious by the natives, has often 
 the opposite effect upon strangers, who drink it freely in the " shooting season." 
 This is said to be owing to the immense numbers of confervcB adhering to the 
 rocks at the bottom, and there giving off a decomposed vegetable matter, which, 
 by intermixtiu-e, has a tendency to produce diarrha?a. In other respects the 
 water is exceedingly pure ; no saluie ingredients having yet been detected by 
 the ordinary tests of analysis. At the time of the great earthquake at Lisbon, 
 the waters of this lake were throvra into violent agitation ; rushing up their 
 
 • It is Imrdly possible to contemplate the s^reat valley of the Ness, without coming to the conclusion that 
 the German and Atlantic Oceans once communicated through this long and narrow chasm ; thus separating 
 Caledonia into two distinct pajrls; but if so, how comes a lake now in the centre, some ninety feet higher 
 than the level of either ocean ? It may be accounted for by supposing that the high or mountainous banks 
 of this strait fell in during some earthquake or convulsion, so as to block up the chasms in two or three 
 places — say at Inverness, or Fort Augustus — thus insulating as it were the site of Loch-Ness. The conse- 
 quence would be, that the lake would gradually rise by the streams from the mountains, till the waters 
 found an exit, as at present, into the Moray Frith. — The Recess, by James Johnson, M.D., Physician 
 extraordinary to the King.
 
 LOCHNESS. FALLS OF FOYERS. 57 
 
 channel with amazing impetuosity — invading the bed of the river Oich, and 
 covering its banks to the heiglit of five feet above the ordinary level. This 
 continued for about an hour in violent ebb and flow; and then, a huge wave 
 bursting upon, and inundating the northern bank, the commotion gradually 
 subsided, and the waters returned to their bed. Loch-Tay exhibited a similar 
 phenomenon ; and in various other parts of the island, as our readers are aware, 
 lakes and rivers at the same time gave strange e\idence of sympathy in that 
 terrible catastrophe. 
 
 Of this celebrated and much-frequented scene, the Falls of Foyers, Burns 
 has transmitted us a correct and vivid picture in the following lines : — 
 
 " Among the heathy hills and ragged woods, 
 
 The roaring Foyers pours bis mossy floods ; 
 
 Till full he dashes on the rocky mounds, 
 
 Where, through a shapeless breach, his stream resounds. 
 
 As high in air the bursting torrents flow. 
 
 As deep recoiling surges foam below" .... 
 " Still through the gap the struggling river toils, 
 
 And still below the horrid caldron boils." 
 
 The Falls are distant about a mile from the " General's hut," or inn, and close to 
 the public road leading to Fort Augustus. After passing across the highly elevated 
 and chiefly moorland district, lying to the south of Loch-Ness, the river Foyers, 
 on reaching the hills which skirt the lake, enters a deep narrow ravine, at the 
 commencement of which it is precipitated over a ledge of rock, about thirty feet 
 in height, and thus forms the Upper Fall. To see this to advantage, it is necessary 
 to descend to the channel of the river below the bridge. From this position 
 the appearance of the headlong and tumultuous mass of waters is very imposing ; 
 while the lofty and perpendicular rocks between which the river pours its noisy 
 and troubled flood, and the aerial single-arched bridge spanning* the chasm, 
 add much to the picturesque effect. Below the Fall, the channel of the river 
 is deep and rocky, and shelves rapidly down towards the lake ; the mountain 
 sides are clothed with luxuriant woods of birch ; and the river, interrupted in 
 its course by numerous masses of rock, is lashed into foam, and hurries impe- 
 tuously forward for about a quarter of a mile. Here it encounters a second 
 
 • A little above the cascade, the river is very much contracted between two rocks ; and previously to the 
 erection of the bridge, a log was thrown over this chasm, reaching from one rock to the otlier, and serving 
 as a bridge to the more courageous foot passengers. There is a tradition, that a person who resided in the 
 heights of the country, while in a state of intoxication, passed on horseback along the log-bridge in a moon- 
 light night ; and that, having gone afterwards to the place, he was so horror-struck at the peril he had 
 escaped, that he returned home, went to bed, and soon after died. 
 
 VOL. II. Q
 
 58 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 abrupt descent, and is dashed through a narrow gap, over a height of ninety 
 feet, into a deep spacious linn, or basin, surrounded by lofty precipitous rocks. 
 As we approach this greater cataract, the ground is felt to tremble from the 
 shock of the falling waters, and the ear is stunned with its sullen and ceaseless 
 roar. Descending by a winding footpath to a point directly opposite to, and 
 on a level with the Fall, the spectacle appears in all its sublimity. Here at 
 once the eye can scan the terrors of the troubled gulf below, the whole extent 
 of the Fall, and the stupendous overhanging rocks, waving with birch, and 
 partially covered with a rank mossy vegetation, forced into life by the volumes 
 of vapour which float around ; but it is cliiefly when the river is much swollen 
 by rain that the spectator regards it with mingled feelings of awe and admiration. 
 Then the living spirit of the waters wakens with thundering call the echoes of 
 the solitude ; every other sound is drowned, and all nature seems attentive to 
 the voice of the falling element. The mighty caldron is filled with shifting 
 masses of spray, frequently illumined with the bright and lambent tints of the 
 rainbow.* 
 
 " But on the verge, 
 From side to side, beneath the glittering morn, 
 An iris sits amidst the infernal surge, 
 Like Hope upon a death-bed; and, unworn 
 It steady dyes, whilst all aroimd is torn 
 By the distracted waters, bears serene 
 Its brilliant hues with all their beams unshorn ; 
 Resembling, 'mid the torture of the scene, 
 Love watching Madness with unalterable mien."t 
 
 In several of the Highland districts, and particularly in that now under 
 notice, the state of property, and the local history of ancient times, would 
 be entirely unknown, but for the few gleams of light thrown upon them by 
 the annals connected with their existing monuments of antiquity. Of this 
 description is the Castle of Urquhart, one of the chain of fortresses^several of 
 them royal — which, from the earliest times, stretched across the Great Glen 
 from Inverness to Inverlochy, and thus secured the country from foreign invasion 
 and the excess of civil discord. Perched on the western promontory of Urquhart 
 bay, this ruined fortress overhangs Loch-Ness. The isolated rock on which 
 it stands, is separated from the adjoining hill by a moat twenty-five feet deep 
 and sixteen broad. The rock is crowned by the remains of a high wall or 
 curtain, surrounding the buildings ; the principal of which, a strong square keep, 
 
 • Anderson. Guide, Sect. v. p. 252. f Byron.
 
 I
 
 LOCAL TRADITIONS. — GLENGARRY. 61 
 
 and expelled the miserable inhabitants, old and young, without food or clothing, 
 to the hills. Several persons were murdered in cold blood, or shot through sheer 
 wantonness. About four hundred of the royal army having surprised a young 
 man of the name of Cameron with a musket in his hand, the unfortunate youth, 
 without any form of trial, was posted up and shot by an order from Grant, who 
 commanded a party of the Ross-shire militia. This, it is not improbable, was 
 as much the result of private antipathy as of pohtical zeal, which too frequently 
 served as a mask for similar acts of violence. At this time, a difference in name 
 implied a difference in nature ; so that he who was not a Grant, or of some 
 other clan conspicuous for its loyalty, was marked as a rebel ; and, too frequently 
 it is feared, the mere difference of a patronymic, sufficed for the prompt 
 execution of feeble and inoffensive individuals. Dugald Roy Cameron, the 
 father of the unhappy youth, and witness of his death, kept a vigilant eye upon 
 the detachment as they returned to quarters with their plunder. In their pro- 
 gress towards the fort, either by accident, or, as it has been surmised, with the 
 well-founded apprehension that the avenger was not far distant, and that his 
 identity might at least be rendered doubtful by the change. Grant gave his 
 horse to Major Munro. Dugald having come up shortly after, and taken aim 
 at the rider without observing the change, the amiable Major fell mortally 
 wounded by the shot. In vain the soldiers attempted to capture the assassin ; 
 throwing away his musket, he scaled the precipices with a speed and deter- 
 mination known only to mountaineers ; and hastening to intercept them once more 
 in a narrow pass, hoped to accomplish, by a discharge of rocky fragments, results 
 still more fatal than that already caused by his musket. This, however, was 
 happily prevented by the delay and consternation caused by the death of Munro. 
 Cameron found no more victims that day, but the morning's disaster checked all 
 similar expeditions into Lochaber. Cameron was never discovered, and served 
 afterwards as a private in the royal army. 
 
 On the western shore of Loch-Oich, where it receives the tributary stream 
 from Loch-Garry, is the modern residence of the Macdonell family — distin- 
 guished for centuries as the chieftains of that name, and the leaders of a warlike 
 clan. Not far distant from the present mansion is the ruined Castle* of Invergarry 
 
 by parties sent out for tlicm. . . Great numbers of our men grew ricb by tbeir sbare of tbe spoil, nliicb was 
 bought in the lump by jockeys and farmers from Yorkshire and the south of Scotland, and divided amongst 
 the men. . . few common soldiers were without horses. . . gold was also as common amorg great numbers 
 as copper at other times." — Jonnial of a Medical OJfirer, London, 1746. 
 
 • Invergarry was the first stage of Prince Charles's pilgrimage — after his defeat at Culloden, and when 
 he had assumed his disguise — a pilgrimage long continued, perilous in the extreme, and which nothing 
 
 VOL. n. R
 
 IBS SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 — the ancient stronghold of the same illustrious family — which was burnt at 
 the close of the last rebellion, that disastrous period so often referred to, and 
 which so many objects in this country serve to perpetuate. Over a well in the 
 neighbourhood a small monument commemorates the following fact, highly 
 characteristic of the lawless period to which it relates. 
 
 The laird of Keppoch, having sent his two sons to be educated in France, 
 died during their absence, and left the management of his affairs to the care of 
 seven brothers, men of his own clan. Thus placed in a station of unexpected 
 authority, these kinsmen relished the advantages it afforded them better than 
 became men of honour, and resolved to insure its continuance at every risk. 
 But as the heir of Keppoch still remained in France, they suffered no interrup- 
 tion for a considerable time. At length, the young laird and his brother, having 
 returned home to take possession of their inheritance, were waylaid and murdered 
 on the very night of their arrival. The perpetrators of the foul deed evaded 
 for some time the strong arm of justice ; but the family bard succeeded at last 
 in drawing down upon them that vengeance which they so richly merited. 
 Having flviled in several appeals to other clans, he finally addressed himself 
 to Macdonald of the Isles. Receiving from that source what aid he required, 
 he o\'ertook the murderers in the midst of their guilty career, and, in the manner 
 recorded,* avenged the untimely death of the young chief and his brother. 
 
 In this mountainous country, Ben-Nevis is to the Celtic, what Mont Blanc 
 is to the Savoy Alps — the monarch of the chain. It is estimated at four thousand 
 three hundred and seventy feet above the level of the sea, which approaches to 
 within three quarters of a mile of the stupendous mass. The labour of ascend- 
 ing this colossus of the waste is well repaid by the majestic features presented 
 to the tourist as he climbs from crag to crag, and observes at every pause the 
 scene expanding before him. But when he reaches the summit, the vast 
 panorama which then opens upon him, fills the mind with ideas to which no 
 words can give utterance. If the weather be favourable, the extent of horizon 
 thus embraced, and the variety of objects brought before the eye, are such as 
 
 but tlie sympathy of " some wlio were his enemies, and the extraordinary fidelity of his friends, could have 
 saved from a fatal termination." 
 
 * As a memorial of the ample and summary vengeance which, in the swift course of feudal justice, inflicted 
 by the orders of the Lord Macdonell and Aross, overtook the perpetrators of the foul murder of the 
 Keppoch family, a branch of the powerful and illustrious clan of which his lordship was the chief: This 
 monument is erected by Colonel Macdonell, of Glengarry — xvii. Mac-Mic-Alaister— his successor and 
 representative, in the year of our Lord 1812. The heads of the seven murderers were presented at the foot of 
 the noble chief, in Glengarry Castle, after having been washed in this spring ; and ever since that event, 
 which took place early in the sixteenth century, it has been known by the name of " Tobar-nan-ceann," 
 ur the Well of the Heads.
 
 BATTLE OF INVERLOCHY. 
 
 65 
 
 Inverloch)' has been at cliffercnt periods the scene of internal conflicts, of which 
 history has preserved some melancholy details. Alexander, Lord of the Isles, 
 having been imprisoned in Tantallon Castle by James I. for burning Inverness, and 
 other acts of violence, his cousin, Donald Balloch, — either to insult or intimidate 
 the king, and thereby procure Alexander's release, — carried fire and sword into the 
 district of Lochaber. Two of the king's officers, the earls of Mar and Caithness, 
 having encountered the islesmen at Inverlochy, the latter nobleman was slain ; but 
 the king, advancing in person, Donald fl^ed to Ireland, from which his head was 
 afterwards sent over to the king as an efficient guarantee for his future conduct. 
 
 The scene represented in the engraving, exhibits the battle, or rather flight, 
 of Inverlochy — a battle which proved so destructive to the army under the 
 marquess of Argyll, and so triumphant to his rival, the marquess of Montrose. 
 It was on Sunday, the 2d of February, 1645, "just as the sun had risen over 
 the shoulder of Ben Nevis, that the troops under Montrose advanced to the 
 attack. Taken by surprise, and with a great portion of tlieir strength already 
 cut off, the Argyll force was drawn up in a line of somewhat formidable extent. 
 In the centre were the Highlanders, on the right and left the Lowlanders, on an 
 eminence behind stood a small body of reserve, and within the fortress itself was 
 a garrison of fifty men. The ground on which they met was perfectly level, 
 formed by the junction of the river Lochy with Locheil. Behind them, and 
 still nearer the embouchure of the river, the castle of Inverlochy raised its vast 
 square form into the cold winter air. Behind were the provision galleys ; and 
 that in which Argj^U had taken shelter* lay upon the placid face of the estuary, 
 as if quietly waiting to contemplate the dreadful scene that was to ensue." . . 
 When the Campbells, waiting to receive the attack, saw the disorderly band of 
 Montrose issue at sound of trumpet from the dusky glen before them — " when 
 they saw their uplifted weapons flashing under the rays of the sun as they 
 rushed forward at full speed — when they heard the wild yell with which they 
 accompanied the discharge of their muskets, and sprang forward to close in active 
 conflict — their hearts, unexcited by motion as those of their enemies had been, 
 fairly sunk within them, and they might be said to have lost the battle 
 before it was commenced. The greater part of them discharged their firelocks 
 against the royalists only once, and then, without drawing a sword, turned and 
 fled. A few only, and those in detached portions throughout the field, waited 
 
 t Argj'U himself, suffering from a hurt in his arm and face, caused by a fall, and which disabled him for 
 the use of sword and pistol, retired on hoard his galley, moored hard by, while his cousin, the veteran 
 Auchinbreck, took the command. This fact alone — the absence of their chief — must have contributed not 
 a little to discourage the troops. — Chambers' Hislor. Details of the Rebellion. 
 VOL. II. S
 
 66 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 for the charge, or made the least attempt to contest the fortune of the day." . . 
 A few minutes saw the whole of the Argyll army accumulated in a confused and 
 terrified mass upon the hrink of the lake, or flying to irretrievahle ruin along 
 its shore. After the turn of the day, Montrose's men found easy work in chasing 
 and cutting down their unhappy countrymen. The flight was more destructive 
 than the hardest fought battle. Those who crowded back upon the beach in 
 the hope of reaching the vessels, were almost, without exception, slain or 
 drowned. Those who fled along the shore towards the south-west, were closely 
 followed, and great numbers of them overtaken and slain. A party of about 
 two hundred, who made for the Castle, were intercepted by a troop of Montrose's 
 horse, and either cut down or driven back upon the beach. A great number 
 endeavoured to reach their chief's vessel by means of the rope which attached 
 it to the shoie ; but this support suddenly giving way, all that were upon it sank 
 at once into the water and were drowned. Argyll himself, too much concerned 
 for his own safety to attempt the rescue of his unhappy followers, was no 
 sooner certain of the fate of the day, than he ordered his sails to be hoisted, 
 and extricating his vessel from the midst of his dead and drowning clansmen, 
 glided down the Loch in quest of a safer anchorage. — Such is a brief sketch of 
 the battle of Inverlochy, which the reader will find detailed with great efiect in 
 the popular work here abridged. 
 
 A short excursion into Lochaber carries the tourist to Glen-roy, celebrated 
 for a series of parallel roads, which have furnished abundant materials for 
 discussion between geologists and those patriots who, with excusable partiality, 
 still cling to the immemorial traditions of the country. The theory established 
 by the latter, is, that these extraordinary roads, or terraces, were constructed 
 by human labour, and devised for the use of the ancient kings who held their 
 court at Inverlochy, and here indulged in the royal pastime of hunting. But, 
 admitting that such was their intended purpose — that they could reallj' have been 
 useful in facilitating the business of the chase — still there is no trace of artificial 
 formation. Had such been their origin, the exchequer of the Celtic kings 
 must have been amply provided, and most idly expended. But this theory 
 is not only untenable by any argument that could give it even an air of proba- 
 bility, but is refuted by the existence of similar lines in various parts of the 
 
 • Montrose is said to have "knighted on the field," John Hay, of Lochloy — the latest instance of that 
 honour heing conferred by a subject. This circumstance is commemorated by Sir Walter Scott, in his 
 " Legend of Montrose," where the doughty " Major Dalgetty " is made to win his spurs in this battle, 
 which the great novelist has depicted with admirable effect as well as historical accuracy. For this scene 
 see " Legend of Montrose," pp. 284', 285.
 
 GLEN-ROY. — CAMERON OF LOCHIEL. 67 
 
 continent, in Italy, Germany, and the vallej-s of the Alps. In South America, 
 also, Captiiin Basil Hall discovered horizontal roads very similar to those under 
 notice, and which had been formed, as in the present case, by a sudden discharge 
 of the waters with which the glen was previously filled. The subject, never- 
 theless, has given rise to much ingenious argument ; and, in spite of geological 
 dogmas, the more poetical account, it is probable, will long maintain the ascen- 
 dancy. The strength of early prepossessions is hostile to scientific innovation. 
 It is hard to divest the mind of what is so pleasing to the fancy, or so flattering 
 to the national pride. No, say the advocates of the more poetical origin — no ; 
 we will not hsten to a theory which would degrade this haunt of our Nimrod 
 kings into the deserted bed of some primeval lake ; nor need we be surprised 
 that geologists who have " impugned the Book of Genesis, should venture a 
 new theory on the roads of Glen-roy."* 
 
 The scenery of Lochiel, like that which borders the contiguous waters of 
 Loch-Linnhe, of which it is only a branch, is generally picturesque — always 
 romantic. The hills are lofty ; here rising abruptly from the water's edge, and 
 there broken into ravines and valleys, and tracing their bleak and bold outline 
 along the horizon. At one point their base is indented by a small bay, sweeping 
 in a gentle curve under the face of the rocks ; at another, a bold promontory, 
 girdled with wood, and surmounted by a track of bright green pasture, surges 
 forward into the lake, and shuts out, like a curtain, the fine scenery beyond. 
 This passed, a fresh landscape unfolds itself, and is again surrounded by another 
 and another — all different in arrangements — yet all presenting similar materials, 
 and losing no charm by repetition. The accompanying engraving shows the 
 most exciting and important event that ever took place on the lake of Eil — the 
 " morning-march" of the rebellion — the nucleus of the insurgent army — Prince 
 Charles at its head — -the Stuart standard unfurled, and gathering strength at every 
 step, but, after waving for a time over the heads of its followers, trampled at 
 last on the fatal heath of Culloden. Their march was like their own mountain- 
 stream, collecting its tributaries from every glen and green acclivity — filling the 
 valley with the thunder of its course, and at last swallowed up in that ocean 
 which in its pride it appeared to stem. 
 
 Donald Cameron of Lochiel, chief of the clan Cameron, inherited all the 
 martial spirit, the social and manly virtues, of his ancestors. In this district 
 
 • Instead of arguing (he point, would it not he better for all parties to admit at once the geological 
 formation of tliese roads, and then allow that they were used by the royal hunters for the purpose described ? 
 The only olijection to this compromise, is, that it would be giving Nature credit for what ought to have 
 been done by the engineers of old Fingal !
 
 68 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 of Lochaber, particularly, his memory is cherished with amiable partiality ; and 
 through the Highlands generally, the name of the " gentle Lochiel" never fails 
 to awaken the most kindly sympathies in his favour. His opinion was so much 
 respected, and his support deemed of so much weight in the cause, that, until 
 the prince had obtained a guarantee for the latter, his desperate enterprise met 
 with little countenance from the neighbouring chiefs. However much they 
 felt attached at heart to the house of Stuart, and to the person of its repre- 
 sentative then amongst them, it required little penetration to foresee, that the 
 standard once raised, this proof of their loyalty might entail ruin on themselves 
 and their posterity. This Lochiel clearly foresaw, and would have avoided ; but, 
 led away by a strange fatality, he openly espoused what he inwardly condemned, 
 and to escape the imputation of coldness to his prince, plunged into the vortex 
 in which so manj' of his gallant clansmen were destined to perish. 
 
 When Charles first landed in Borrodale, Lochiel heard the tidings with 
 inward sorrow, but hastened to present himself before the royal stranger, and, 
 if he could not prevail on him to abandon the enterprise, to offer him at least 
 the rights of hospitality. Thus resolved on the part he should act, Lochiel 
 set out, and on his way to the prince, who had anchored off the coast, called 
 at the house of his brother Cameron of Fassafern, to whom he expressed his 
 intention of dissuading Charles from the mad speculation in which he had 
 embarked. " Then," said his brother, " if such be your intention, proceed no 
 further ; perform this duty by letter ; a trusty messenger shall convey it into 
 the prince's hands." " No," said Lochiel, " that were a mark of disrespect 
 of which I cannot be guilty. I will present myself in person, explain my 
 reasons, and without reserve counsel the prince to deliberate on the rash step 
 he has taken, and abandon the enterprise." " Brother," said Fassafern, " I 
 know you better than you know yourself; if the prince once sets eyes on you, 
 he will make you do whatever he pleases : reflect while it is yet time." The 
 conversation ended. Thus ominously warned, Lochiel proceeded to the inter- 
 view,* and was complimented by the prince on this early demonstration of 
 loyalty. " Yes," said he, " my father has often told me that Lochiel was our 
 firmest friend." Lochiel, nevertheless, laboured by many arguments to convince 
 the royal adventurer that every circumstance was against him. He pointed out 
 
 • It was while proceeding to tliis ill-starred interview, that Lochiel is supposed to have been met by a 
 native " seer," in a wild pass of the mountains, and forewarned of the "coming events," and the disasters 
 in whicli his concession should involve his own and the neighbouring clans. This traditional interview with 
 a person gifted with the faculty of ■' second sight," has afforded a hint for Campbell's celebrated poem 
 of " Lochiel and the Wizard" — a poem which, had he written nothing more, would have gone far to 
 establish his claims as the " poetarum facile princeps" of his age and country.
 
 LOCHABER. — THE PRINCE AND LOCIIIEL. 69 
 
 to him the necessity of at least deferring, if ho did not utterly abandon, his 
 expedition ; for that, at present, he had neither men, money, nor arms at his 
 command ; and until his adherents could meet and deliberate on the measures 
 to be adopted, any public manifestation of his arrival would not only derange 
 his plans, but ensure imminent danger to liis person. This prudent counsel 
 was lost upon the prince. His inexperience, enthusiasm, and extravagant 
 notions of the nation's attachment to his cause, rendered him too confident of 
 success to reflect with calmness on the slender means at his disposal ; and he was 
 too impetuous in natural temperament to take a dispassionate survey of his actual 
 position. His suspicions were roused, and his pride piqued, by the tone of 
 moderation and diffidence in which Lochiel addressed him. " No," said he, 
 " it would ill become Charles Stuart to temporize or retreat, when the voice of 
 the nation has called upon him to assert his claims. I will not listen to counsel 
 that would betray my claims and faithful adherents. I will erect the standard 
 of my family on these very shores ; I will proclaim to the nation that the sou 
 of their king has arrived to vindicate his rights, to reinstate himself on the throne 
 of his ancestors, or perish in the attempt. Then it will be seen whether the 
 nation will respond to the call, and whether the 'exiled Stuart' has yet a place 
 in the hearts of his people. Lochiel, the descendant of a race who have never 
 shrunk back in the hour of danger — never adopted ' counsel' when they should 
 have drawn the sword — Lochiel, the representative of ' Ewen Cameron,'* may 
 withhold his assistance, and withdraw to his castle. There, in inglorious retire- 
 ment, he may learn from the public bulletins who are in the front of the battle, 
 and then, if he may, enjoy the satisfaction of having abandoned his prince." 
 " Never!" exclaimed Lochiel, with impassioned voice and manner — "never! 
 If I cannot save my prince, I will share his fate ! and so shall every man over 
 whom nature or fortune have given me command !" The die was cast ! Lochiel, 
 under the dread of being impeached with cowardice, or disaffection to the cause, 
 but with a strong conviction on his mind that it was hopeless, drew the sword, 
 and by his example surrounded the prince's standard with those gallant chiefs 
 and their adherents who had hitherto stood aloof.f The issue, as predicted, 
 involved them in universal ruin. 
 
 * Sir Ewen Cameron, of Lochiel, was the last man in Scotland who maintained the royal cause durino- 
 the great civil war. His constant incursions rendered him a very unpleasant neighbour to the republican 
 garrison at Inverlochy. The governor of the fort detached a party of 300 men to lay waste Lochiel's pos- 
 sessions, and cut down his trees; but in a sudden and desperate attack made upon them by this chieftain, 
 with very inferior numbers, they were nearly all cut to pieces. The skirmish is detailed in a curioui 
 memoir of Sir Ewen's life, for which see the Appendix to " Pennant's Scottish Tour." 
 
 t The clan Cameron, headed by Lochiel himself, and 300 men commanded by Mac Donald of Keppoch, 
 VOL. II. T
 
 70 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 The other chieftains who followed the prince embraced his cause with similar 
 presentiments : of this we have an example in his interview with Clanronald 
 " the dauntless." Charles, says Home, almost reduced to despair, in his discourse 
 with Boisdale, addressed the two Highlanders with great emotion ; and summing 
 up his arguments for taking arms, conjured them to assist their prince, their 
 countryman, in his utmost need. Clanronald and liis friend, who were well 
 inclined to the cause, positively refused, and told him, that to take up arms 
 without concert or support, was to pull down certain ruin upon their own heads. 
 Charles persisted, argued, and implored. During this conversation they were 
 on shipboard, walking backwards and forwards on deck, with a Highlander 
 armed at all points, as was the fashion of the country, standing near them. 
 He was a younger brother of Kinloch-Moidart, and had come off to the ship 
 to inquire for news, without knowing who was on board. When he gathered 
 from their discourse that the stranger was the prince of Wales — when he heard 
 his chief and his brother refuse to take arms with their prince, his colour went 
 and came — his eyes sparkled — he shifted his place, and grasped his sword. 
 Charles observed his demeanour, and turning briskly to him, called out, " Will 
 you assist me?" " I will, I will!" said Ronald; " though no other man in the 
 Highlands should draw a sword, I am ready to die for you." Charles, with a 
 profusion of thanks to his champion, said he wished all the Highlanders were 
 like him. This incident closed the deliberations ; the two Macdonalds declared 
 that they would also join, and use their utmost endeavours to engage their 
 countrymen to take arms.* 
 
 Lochiel had the good fortune to get safe to France, with the prince, and was 
 there made colonel of a regiment, but did not enjoy his commission more than 
 two years, when he died.-f 
 
 composed the majority of the little band wlio commenced this hazardous enterprise. Their standard, which 
 was made " of white, blue, and red silk, and twice the size of a modern stand of colours, was unfurled by the 
 Marquess of Tullibardine, titular Duke of Athol." 
 
 • In reference to this subject, it must never be forgotten that the Rebellion of 1745 was only a partial 
 insurrection of a few Highland chiefs, and their followers. Neither were those gentlemen the heads of the 
 most powerful clans — nor did the whole of their respective tribes attend them to the field ; only nine parishes 
 in the Highlands contributed a part of their inhabitants towards furnishing the rebel army, . . That the insur- 
 gents met with little encouragement in Scotland, is evident. Their whole number amounted hardly to seven 
 thousand, and of these about two thousand were English. It must not be supposed, therefore, that near two 
 millions of people who were innocent, were to be involved in the guilt of a few thousands. Such, how- 
 ever, Dr. Johnson seems to have implied, when he states, " that the law which followed the victory of 
 Culloden, found the whole nation dejected and intimidated." The truth is, that, without the assistance 
 of the loyal clans, the victory of Culloden had never been heard of. It was the division among the chiefs 
 and their followers — "when Greek met Greek" — the unnatural conflict between members of the same 
 family, that invested the duke of Cumberland with the ensigns of a triumph. — See M'Nicol's Notes. 
 
 t Lochiel's brother, Dr. Cameron, who fought also at Culloden, was wounded severely in the arm, but
 
 HIGHLAND CHARACTER, — LOCHABER. 71 
 
 " To his blue hills that rose in view. 
 As o'er the deep his galley bore, 
 He often looked and sighed adieu ! 
 We'll never see Lochaber more '." 
 
 The feelings of those exiles, who for years lingered in foreign lands with the 
 vague expectation of being restored to their native mountains, are the subject 
 of many sympathizing lays. The severe measures which were put in force 
 by government for the suppression of the insurrection, compelled great numbers 
 of the Highlanders to seek for refuge on the continent. Those who escaped 
 to France,* were chiefly of the upper class, and were consoled for the loss of 
 property and the ruin of their families, by escaping a tragical death on the scaffold, 
 while, at the same time, they were protected, and in many instances pensioned, 
 by the humane and hberal government of France. A sum was set apart for their 
 subsistence, and thus les braves Ecossais were supphed with every means of support 
 and cheered by daily proofs of sympathy. The Dutch alone, on a demand of the 
 British minister, consented to deliver up twenty of the unhappy emigrants. But of 
 these one only was arrested ; the others escaped to countries of greater security.f 
 It is worth}' of record, that, during their exile, Cameron of Lochiel, Stewart 
 of Ardsheal, and others, whose estates had been confiscated, were still supported 
 by spontaneous contributions from their former tenantry, who, besides paying 
 one rent to government, reserved another for their chiefs, whose misfortunes 
 seemed only to add to the strength of their claims as landlords, and to the 
 affectionate attachment due to them as the hereditary leaders of their race. 
 Instances of this attachment are numerous, and reflect the highest honour on 
 the warm-hearted and faithful Highlanders. 
 
 Wlien the earl of Seaforth was in similar circumstances, after his attainder 
 in ITiG, he experienced the same generous and disinterested fidelity. When 
 tlie rents were collected for the purpose of being sent to liim in France, four 
 
 was reserved for a more melancholy fate. " I remember," says the late Dr. Spence, " while a school-boy at 
 Linlithgow, Dr. Cameron being brought into the town under an escort of dragoons. He wore a French 
 light-coloured great coat, and rode a grey pony, with his feet lashed to its sides ; but, considering his 
 situation and prospects, looked remarkably cheerful. As the party were to rest for the night, the prisoner 
 was placed for security in the common jail ; and well do I remember,'* continues Spence, " as I remained 
 with the crowd at the prison door, over-hearing the doctor within singing to himself his native song — 
 ' Farewell to Lochaber,' ' we'll maybe return to Lochaber no more!' He was afterwards conveyed to 
 London, and suffered an ignominious death on Tower-hill. 
 
 • Sens, in Burgundy, was one of the principal cities in which the Scottish t'migrt's found a sanctuary, 
 and where their names still survive in their descendants. 
 
 f Nothing proves more strongly the persevering vengeance of the British cabinet against those unhappy 
 fugitives, than the fact, that, after the lapse of thirteen years, the chevalier Johnston did not think himself 
 safe in Canada, and had serious apprehensions of being sent home for trial.
 
 72 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 hundred of his okl followers and dependants escorted the money to Edinburgh, 
 to see it safely lodged in the bank. Their first appearance there, says General 
 Stewart, caused no small surprise ; and strong animadversions were made on 
 government for allowing such proceedings. When Macpherson of Clunie was 
 outlawed, and compelled to live for nine years in caves and woods, his people 
 contributed every thing that money could procure for his comfort, and after 
 his death continued the same noble proofs of sympathy and attachment to his 
 widow and family.* 
 
 In addition to these instances of fidelity and attachment, the following example 
 of heroic devotion awakens the mingled sentiments of regret and admiration. 
 A young gentleman, of the name of Mackenzie, was so remarkable for the 
 resemblance he bore to Prince Charles, that he often succeeded in diverting to 
 the opposite side of the mountains the troops sent in pursuit of the royal fugitive. 
 This he effected by showing his person in such a way as to be seen by the 
 pursuers, and then escaping by the passes or woods through which he could not 
 be quickly followed. On one occasion, having unexpectedly fallen in with a 
 party of troops, he immediately retired, but intimated by his address and manner 
 that he was the grand object of their search. The soldiers eagerly pursued 
 him, stimulated by the near prospect of thirty thousand pounds — the reward 
 offered for the prince, dead or alive. Here, however, Mackenzie's usual good 
 fortune forsook him; he was overtaken and shot, exclaiming as he fell, " Villains, 
 you have kiUed your prince !" Thus personating the character with his last 
 breath, the pursuit was suspended, the prince extricated from immediate danger, 
 and it was not till the head was produced at the next garrison, for the purpose 
 of claiming the reward, that the mistake was discovered. 
 
 Of the many individuals to whom the secret of Prince Charles's concealment 
 was entrusted, was one poor mountaineer, who, on being asked " why he did not 
 give information and enrich himself by the reward of thirty thousand pounds," 
 thus replied : — " Of what use would the money be to me ? A gentleman might 
 take it and go to Edinburgh or London, where he would find plenty of people 
 to eat the dinners and drink the wine which it would purchase ; but as for me, 
 if I were such a villain as to commit that crime, I could not remain in my own 
 country, where nobody would speak to me, unless it were to curse me as I 
 passed along the road !" A similar instance has been already recorded of M'lan. 
 Neither the prospect of immediate death, nor the offer of immediate wealth, 
 had any influence over the minds of these poor men in a case where they thought 
 
 • Sletcait, vol. i. 62.
 
 LEGEND OF THE COMYNS. IS 
 
 their honour was concerned. As an example of the same principle operating 
 in a higher sphere, we may add, that when Macdonald of Kingsborough was 
 upbraided by Sir Everard Falkner for the fine opportunity he had neglected of 
 making the fortune of his family for ever by betraying the prince, he indignantly 
 replied, " No, Sir Everard, death would have been preferable to such dishonour. 
 But, had I gold and silver piled in heaps to the bulk of yonder huge mountain, 
 the treasure could not afford me half the satisfaction I now feel in my own 
 breast in doing what I have done." Kingsborough, it will be remembered, had 
 not joined the prince's standard ; he gave no countenance to the enterprise ; 
 but when the prince was overwhelmed by misfortunes, he received him hospi- 
 tably, and did not forsake him till he had placed him beyond the reach of 
 his enemies. 
 
 The village of Onich — the last of the Lochaber country — is chiefly inhabited 
 by families employed at the slate quarries hereafter named, and among the 
 traditions of the country holds the following place : — The Comyns, says our 
 authority, while in the plenitude of feudal power, paid little attention to the 
 natural rights of humanity — much less to the rights of property — when interest 
 or inclination prompted them to acts of despotism, or a breach of covenant. 
 Acts similar to those by which Gesler roused the indignation of the ancient Swiss, 
 rendered the Comyns odious in the sight of their dependants ; but the latter 
 for a time had no William Tell. The tenacity with which these chiefs adhered 
 to the barbarous customs of their ancestors — exacting the most servile obedience 
 in cases the most revolting to every feeling and sentiment which can distinguish 
 the reasoning nature from the propensities of instinct — made them many deadly 
 enemies. But we shall not here expatiate on the subject of feudal privileges, 
 but return to the illustration — the " working of the system." Three marriages, 
 it appears, were contracted at the time in question, between parties belonging 
 .to this village — the women remarkable for their beauty, the men for honour and 
 personal bravery. It was customary, on such occasions, to propitiate their feudal 
 superior by the payment of a fine, the acceptance of which was a token that the 
 chief waived liis claims, and ga\e a formal sanction to the ceremony. Accord- 
 ingly, on the eve of the marriage, the half-mark, or commutation-money, was 
 tendered by the three bridegrooms at the gates of Inverlochy Castle — the resi- 
 dence of Comyn — but rejected. The meaning of this vras too ob\ious to be 
 misunderstood. They returned from their mortifying embassy with feeHngs of 
 indignation difficult to be repressed, and silently prepared for the result. On 
 the day of marriage, Comyn, with his two sons, and a numerous retinue, presented 
 themselves at the ceremony. The fine was again tendered, but again rejected 
 
 VOL. II. u
 
 74 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 in a manner that fully evinced that the lord of Badenoch, in the present instance, 
 would accept no commutation-money. The fact produced an instant and 
 powerful sensation ; fear rose into defiance : the men whom the chief regarded 
 as serfs — the mere slaves of his will — now drew their swords, and planting 
 themselves in front of their trembling brides, declared that the first attempt to 
 offend their delicacy should cost the dastard his Kfe. Fired at this act of 
 defiance, the armed attendants stepped boldly forward to enforce obedience to 
 the chief, and were received at the point of the sword. A fierce conflict ensued ; 
 the hands of the injured were strengthened by a hearty cooperation on the part 
 of their village comrades : the young women were rescued ; and Comyn, after 
 losing both his sons in this disgraceful enterprise, was compelled to fly for his 
 life ; whilst the country, rising on his track, soon put on the appearance of a 
 general insurrection. The body guard, by which he was attended, screened him 
 for a time from the fate which had already overtaken his sons, and he arrived at 
 length on a hill near fort Augustus. Here he sat down, apparently to rest ; but 
 when his pursuers came up, they found that the object of their just indignation 
 was already in the hands of death. The spot where he died is still named 
 " Suidh Chuiman," or Comyn's seat — the same that we have already mentioned 
 in a former page. 
 
 The accompanying view of Loch-an-Eilan, though not in the Lochaber district, 
 is here introduced as one of the mountain strongholds where the powerful family 
 of Comyn, just mentioned, too frequently indulged in similar acts of despotism 
 and oppression. As the retreat of a lawless chief, nothing could have been more 
 suitable in respect to strength and situation. It reminds the traveller of some of 
 those isolated dens in the Alps or mountains of the Abruzzi, where the bandit-lord 
 of former times could secure his plunder, and prosecute his schemes of rapine 
 among the neighbouring valleys with impunity. 
 
 The castle, though neither extensive nor elegantly constructed, is of solid 
 materials, and capable of affording, during the period to which it refers, ample 
 security against all the weapons of ancient warfare. The island on which it 
 stands is nearly covered by the mason work ; so that the massy walls seem as if 
 they rose through the surface of the lake, which encloses them like an impas- 
 sable moat, reflecting the dark rampart on its bosom. Over the rocky precipices 
 that skirt the water, birch, hazel, and mountain pine throw their intermingling 
 shade, and where more densely grouped, impart a melancholy gloom that well 
 becomes the scene. In other parts, the shore is beautifully varied with minia- 
 tures of bay and promontory, — the former delicately bordered with layers of 
 bright sand, sparkling in the sun, — the latter crowned with isolated trees, through
 
 LOCHLEVEN.— ST. MUNGO S ISLE. 
 
 75 
 
 which the ruins and mossy rocks gleam at intervals, and discover the landscape 
 under varied attractions. On one isolated point, sprinkled with wild flowers, 
 a huge tree, stript of its bark, stands like a solitary spectre among its still verdant 
 associates. Its withered, tortuous roots appear straining forward as if to catch the 
 reviving moisture of the lake,- — while its vigorous successor, lifting its head proudly 
 to the sky, takes the decayed monarch under its shadow, but for itself reserves 
 all the sun. — On a calm summer evening, when the brake is vocal with the 
 song of birds (few in this territory of their special enemies), the surface of the 
 water silvered over with the moonshine — the broad shadow of the eagle passing 
 across it to his eyrie in the ruins— the flap of his wings as he exultingly alights 
 on his now undisputed domain, make a strong impression on the imagination, and 
 invest Loch-an-Eilan with the romantic features of the " Castle of Otranto." All 
 this is rendered still more impressive by the recollection, that here that ferocious 
 personage, named from his deeds the " Wolf of Badenoch," had his lair, which 
 is still tenanted by his representatives — the eagles of Cairn-gorm. 
 
 On the opposite bank of the river Spey, in a beautiful romantic situation, is 
 the cottage of Kinrara, the summer residence of the late Duchess of Gordon. 
 In this delightful retreat, to which she was enthusiastically attached, the Duchess 
 entertained annually several of the most distinguished families and individuals in 
 the United Kingdom. After her demise in London, her mortal remains were 
 brought to Kinrara, and interred in a spot which she had often pointed o\it in 
 her walks, as that in which she wished to take her last repose. The ceremony 
 of interment took place in May 1812, and is now perpetuated by a magnificent 
 monument of native granite, selected from the Grampian mountains. Belville, a dis- 
 trict of the same parish, has become classical ground, by having been the residence 
 of James Macpherson, the celebrated translator of Ossian's poems. He died here ; 
 but, unlike the Duchess in his choice of a resting-place, his remains, agi-eeably to 
 his own particular instructions, were conveyed to Westminster Abbey, and there 
 deposited in Poet's Corner. Belleville is now the residence of Sir David 
 Brewster, whose name and reputation require no comment in these pages. 
 With this short digression we resume our progress to the Westward. 
 
 The view of Lochleven from Ballahulish Ferry is greatly admired, and may 
 here be allowed to speak for itself. The porphyritic mountains of Glenco — the 
 " Cona" of Ossian — give a specific character to the scene, and in one or two 
 instances bear a close resemblance to the Aigmlles of the Alps. It has been 
 justly remarked, that, from its mouth to the further extremity, Lochleven 
 presents a continued succession of landscapes. Between the point here chosen 
 and the Dog's Ferry — a strait three or four miles higher up — the basin is variegated
 
 to SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 with several islets, the largest of which is St. Mungo's Isle. Here, in mould 
 still sanctified by the remains of a small Roman-Catholic chapel, the people from 
 the opposite shores of Lochaber and Glenco brought their dead for interment. 
 Two broad grassy mounds, formed by a natural swell in the surface, point 
 to the cemeteries of the two clans.* About twenty years ago, the body of 
 M'lan, laird of Glenco, — whose fate will be noticed in its proper place, — was 
 disinterred by his descendants, and removed from the chapel to that portion of 
 the islet appropriated to his own clan. The bones were of herculean propor- 
 tions, and confirmed the traditions respecting his great strength, which made him 
 so formidable in the eyes of his assassins that they durst only approach him 
 while he slept, and in this condition dispatched him by a simultaneous shower 
 of bullets. The adjoining island, called " Eilan-na-Corak," or isle of the lonely 
 one, is so named in consequence of having been the last resting-place of an 
 individual whose life had been so odious in the eyes of his countrymen as to 
 exclude him from a sepulchre in hallowed ground. While this country was 
 infested with wolves, the necessity of thus protecting the sanctuary of the dead 
 by the choice of some isolated position, is apparent ; and where such could not 
 be obtained, the cairn may probably have suggested itself by way of substitute, 
 where a person of distinction was buried. 
 
 In the scenery of Lochleven, the Serpent-river and the Falls of Kinlochmore 
 are much-admired features, and will amply reward the stranger who has time 
 and curiosity to indulge in a water excursion to the upper end of the loch. 
 The Falls are about one hundred feet in height, but broken into several cascades 
 by the projecting rocks over which they descend. 
 
 The second view of Lochleven, which embraces both frontiers, presents 
 
 ** This sepulchral island is extremely interesting, not less on account of the various views which it affords, 
 than on account of those relics and emblems of mortality whicli, during the lapse of centuries, have been 
 accumulated in its narrow compass. Its crowded gravestones, heraldic devices, and rude sculptures, so little 
 expected in this remote corner, attract an attention which, in the midst of civilization, more splendid works 
 would hardly command. Tliere is an impressive effect, also — a check and an awe, produced by thus sud- 
 denly meeting with the emblems of mortality in these wild and secluded spots — a feeling well known to 
 those who, in their wanderings among the Highlands, have thus unwarily fallen upon these repositories of 
 the dead. The English churchyard is habitual to our sight ; nor is it ever unexpected, proclaiming itself 
 afar by its spire or church, by its walled enclosure, or its ancient elm or funereal yews. We pass it coldly ; 
 and if we look at its monumental stones, it is seldom but to amuse ourselves with tlieir barbarous emblems, 
 or the absurdities of their mortuary verse ; but in this country — iu the midst of the beauties and sublimities 
 of the fairest nature — when rejoicing in the bright scenes of an Alpine summer, in all the loveliness that 
 surrounds us, we are suddenly recalled to the thoughts of that hour when these glorious scenes shall be to 
 us as to those who are sleeping at our feet. Then it is that we feel the full force of the narrow green 
 mound, the rude letters, and the silent stone, which seem to say, " The time is at hand when thou, too, 
 slialt see these bright lakes and blue hills no more." — M'Culloch, vol.i. p. 312.
 
 LOCHLEVEN. — ARGYLLSHIRE. 77 
 
 the scenery of this romantic district under a new aspect. Ballahulish Fcjrry is 
 seen in the distance, with its bold mountain barrier towering beyond ; the 
 interval filled up by the lake and its small craft, the scattered cottages that 
 enliven its banks, and the herds and flocks driven out to pasture on the green 
 wooded acclivities, which in many parts furnish an exuberant vegetation. — But 
 with this brief sketch of a few — and only a few — of its prominent features, we 
 must here take leave of Inverness-shire, and conduct our reader into the territoiy 
 of Argyll. 
 
 ARGYLLSHIRE. 
 
 ** Campbells, the modern glory of this isle, 
 Their doubling fame increased in great Argyll ; 
 A race to Caledonia always dear, 
 And on whose blood their liberties appear." — Defoe's Caledonia. 
 
 Argyllshire, the Argathelia of Latin authors, is a county of great extent, 
 extremely irregular in figure, and presenting an endless succession of the most 
 variegated and commanding features. The whole district is so much intersected 
 by lochs, or inlets of salt water, that it is nearly impossible to give any correct 
 estimate of its extent. It consists alternately of ranges of mountains, between 
 which the valleys are covered by the sea. The north-east division is bleak, and 
 rugged, and of a purely alpine character ; while that on the west presents a 
 coast of indefinable beauty, and indented by seven magnificent bays. The 
 soil comprises several varieties ; in the higher mountains, and along the banks of 
 rivers, which deposit their alluvial tribute brought down from these, it consists 
 of gravel and vegetable mould, with an occasional admixture of other adventitious 
 substances. The moors or heaths are extensive, most of them presenting 
 deep layers of peat-moss, which furnishes the chief article of fuel in the inland 
 districts. In general, a light loam mixed with sand, on a clay bottom, is the 
 prevailing character of the soil. On the mountain acclivities, the ordinary 
 soil is a light gravel on till; in the lower grounds, a mixture of clay and 
 moss, and at times a layer of black mossy earth.* The soil appropriated 
 
 * Another soil consists of decayed limestone — a third of limestone and slate — of which the former is a 
 light, the latter a stiff soil, but both fertile, and found in tracts of moderate elevation above the sea. Tliey 
 form the great mass of the soil in the districts of Mid-Lorn, Nether-Lorn, Craignish, &c. A fifth variety, 
 formed by freestone or micaceous schist, prevails in the vtestern parts of the country, and in some of the 
 islands. 
 
 VOL. IL X
 
 78 SCOTLAND II.LUSTRATEO. 
 
 to pasture is partly dry, and partly moist and spongy ; and a considerable portion 
 of that which is either flat or hilly, is covered with heath. The summits of 
 the highest hills are generally naked rocks, destitute of all vegetation. 
 
 After the "Jurisdiction Act," in 1748, the county underwent many alterations 
 and improvements. Roads were made in every direction ; the climate was more 
 studied, and the grain best suited to its peculiarities introduced and cultivated. 
 Villages sprang up ; industry received a new impulse, and a favourable change 
 diffused itself over the whole province. This county, however, furnishes but a 
 small proportion of arable land, compared with its mountain pastures, where 
 the breeding of sheep and black cattle is carried on with success, and now forms 
 the principal branch of export. The natural wood with which the district was 
 originally covered, and of which every peat-moss at various depths exhibits gigan- 
 tic remains, has greatly diminished, but will soon be remedied by those extensive 
 plantations with which the resident proprietors have so liberally enriched and 
 beautified the country. Lime is found in almost every part of the county ; and, 
 in Lismore particularly, it forms a durable cement under water, not unlike 
 that of Pozzuoli, near Naples. In Easdale and Ballachulish are excellent slate 
 quarries, with every convenience for export by water. In the limestone and 
 other strata, veins of lead are often met with, which are wrought both in Islay 
 and Strontian. At the latter, a new species of earth* — strontites — was discovered 
 in 1791, by Dr. Hope, whose labours have thrown new light on the science 
 of chemistry, and established for him a lasting reputation among the first philo- 
 sophers of the age. 
 
 Our principal object, however, is the "scenery" of the country; and in this 
 respect Argyll presents a splendid series, in which all the varieties of sea and 
 lake, frith and forest, mountain rocks, castellated ruins, and modern mansions, 
 are brought forward into striking contrast, or harmoniously blended. In every 
 district of the county, but especially on the west border of Loch-long, and on 
 both sides of Loch-goil, the scenery presents unrivalled pictures of alpine gran- 
 
 • For some time tlie mineral which contained this earth was considered to be merely a variety of witherile, 
 or carbonate of barytes ; and this opinion was adopted by Pelletier, even after he had submitted a portion of 
 it to chemical analysis. Dr. Hope, however, from some peculiarities which he had observed in the action of 
 mineral acids upon the substance in question, strongly suspected the truth of this opinion, and having insti- 
 tuted a series of ingenious experiments, the results fully proved that the mineral from Strontian contained an 
 earth different in its properly from every other earth. The mineral from which it is obtained occurs massive 
 and crystalized ; but it is gencrallv of a fdjrous texture, and of a pale asparagus green colour, although it 
 has sometimes been found transparent and colourless. It is soft, yielding readily to the knife, and show- 
 ing wedge-shaped fragments. Its specific gravity is 3.675. Dr. Hope's memoir on its properties and 
 combinations, with the detail of his experiments, are printed in the fourth volume of *' The Edinburgh 
 Philosophical Transactions."
 
 NATIVE SCKNCRV. — GLENCO. 79 
 
 deur and sublimity. The mountains are lofty — precipitous at various points — 
 here covered with natural wood, and there cleft into dark, narrow chasms, through 
 which torrents and cataracts rush down with foaming impetuosity, and fill 
 the solitude with their mingled roar. In other places the mountains are hol- 
 lowed by natural caves and grottoes — each with its tradition — which have 
 served as the stronghold of outlaws, or the dreary sanctuary of unfortunate 
 chiefs and their adherents. But of these we shall take more particular notice 
 as we proceed. 
 
 The scenery of Glenco, through which we now continue our progress west- 
 ward, is proverbial for the wild sublimity of its features, and never fails to inspire 
 even the most experienced traveller with some degree of awe. As he proceeds 
 under the shadow of its stupendous rocks — rocks that hide their summits in 
 the clouds, and from their scathed sides discharge a multitude of foaming 
 cataracts into the defile — he can hardly believe that the valley could ever have been 
 peopled by civilized beings. The mountains on either hand, protruding forward 
 in solid masses, and checkered with shallow furrows of red connecting clay, 
 exhibit a picture of striking desolation. A shrub, a handful of heath, a few 
 blades of grass, clinging at intervals to these interstices, are almost the only 
 symptoms by which Nature manifests her vivifying influence. Nearer the eye, 
 these occupy a wider space ; the crevices are filled with a mossy vegetation, 
 through which the dropping streams ooze forth in sparkling freshness, and, in 
 their progress downward, give life to a few dwarf oaks and birches that shade 
 their wayward course, and, from the moisture thus afforded, imbibe a mise- 
 rable existence. The highest summits present an aspect of complete sterility, 
 consisting of vast masses of pulverized mica and clay-slate, through which dark 
 isolated rocks start forth at intervals, and in every variety of shape — here, like 
 truncated cones, and there, in serrated edges, or like aiguilles or pointed obelisks, 
 reminding travellers of the Alps. The glen exhibits nearly the same features at 
 both extremities ; the same aspect of mingled grandeur and sterility ; the same 
 chaos of rocks and frowning precipices which appear to exclude all human 
 intrusion, and to reserve this fearful solitude as an abode for spirits. But as 
 we advance towards the centre, the landscape undergoes a magical change. The 
 pass gradually opens — the bleak rocks seem transformed into )nasses of rich 
 vegetation, and, at length, a crystal stream — the Cona* of Ossian — is seen gushing 
 in beauty and freshness from its parent lake. 
 
 * " Their sound was like a thousami stnams that meet in Cona's vale, when, after a stormy night, thev 
 turn their dark eddies between the pale light of the morning." " The gloomy ranks of Lochlin fell like 
 the banks of the roaring Cona," " The roaring stream of Conn." — Ois/V/ri.
 
 80 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 The associations which spring up in the spectator's mind, as he enters this 
 extraordinary pass, are verj' opposite in character. To the reader of Ossian it 
 is classic ground — the hallowed retreat where the heroes of Morven " drew the 
 sword and bent the bow," and presented a stirring theme for the Celtic muse. 
 On the right, is Malmor, a mountain celebrated by Ossian; on the left, Con 
 Fion, or the hill of Fingal. From the evidence afforded by several passages 
 in these poems, Glenco, or the vale of the Cona, appears to have been the birth- 
 place of Ossian,* whose poems have been transferred into all the languages 
 of Europe. Much controversy has taken place among the learned as to their 
 authenticity ; but whatever doubts have been advanced, nothing has yet appeared 
 in the way of evidence to diminish their popularity. Napoleon is said to have 
 been a great admirer of the Celtic bard, and to have been familiar with the 
 best of his poems. 
 
 But with the poetical associations of Glenco, one of a truly painful nature 
 is ever present to the imagination. As we enter its dreary labyrinth, and recal 
 the atrocious scenes of which it has been the theatre, a congenial gloom steals 
 over the spirit. We are accustomed to look upon every act of " religious perse- 
 cution" with indignation ; we are struck with horror at the bare recital of those 
 atrocities which one body of professing Christians have inflicted upon another. 
 When we peruse the narrative of Leger, our sympathies are powerfully 
 awakened in behalf of his suffering countrymen, and we decide in our own minds 
 that the wanton cruelties, the unheard-of tortures, inflicted upon them by the 
 mercenaries of the Inquisition, have happily no parallels in ovu: own countrj'. 
 But a little reflection — a short retrospect, shows us how much we are mistaken. 
 In tliis remote glen deeds have been perpetrated which even a Castrocaro,f or 
 a Pianessa, might blush to own ; perpetrated, too, under political sanction — and 
 which have left an imperishable stain upon the government that could recommend, 
 as " a salutary state measure," the crime of assassination. But, without further 
 comment, we shall here introduce such authentic particulars as will place the 
 tragical history in its true light. 
 
 • " Sleeps the sweet voice of Cona in the midst of his rustling hall ? Sleeps Ossian in his hall, and his 
 friends without their fame?" — " The chiefs gathered from all their hills, and heard the lovely sound. 
 They praised the voice of Cona, the first among a thousand bards ; but age is now on my tongue, and mv 
 soul has failed." — " So shall they search in vain for the voice of Cona, afler it has failed in the 6eld. The 
 hunter shall come forth in the morning, and the voice of ray harp shall not be heard. ' Where is the harp 
 of Car-borne Fingal V The tear will be on his cheek. Then come thou, O Malvina, with all thy music 
 —come ! lay Ossian in the plain of Luther ; let his tomb rise in the lovely field."—" Why bends the hard 
 
 of Cona, said Fingal, over his secret stream! Is this a time for sorrow, father of low-laid Oscar ?" 
 
 Poems of Ossian. 
 
 i See " Waldenses Illustrated," uniform with the present work.
 
 MASSACRE OF GLENCO. 
 
 81 
 
 The Stuart dynasty, it is well known, long after its fall and expulsion from 
 the throne, still maintained its influence among the Highland clans. Several 
 of these were blindly devoted to its restoration, and could perceive no evidence 
 of that misgovernment wliich had rendered the exiled house so odious in the 
 Lowland counties. They viewed the actual sovereign as an usurper, the Stuart 
 as a wronged monarch, and themselves as that portion of his ancient subjects 
 who were bound by every obligation of honour and loyalty to redress his wrongs. 
 Professing also the ancient religion, they found in this an additional motive 
 for exertion ; and, in espousing the Stuart cause, felt as if they had been agents 
 holding a direct commission from Heaven, to restore at once the altar and the 
 throne. Filled with this noble but mistaken enthusiasm, no enterprise appeared 
 hazardous, no sacrifice too severe, provided they could reestablish the ancient 
 regime, and place the crown once more on the head of the Stuart. In the 
 battle of Killicrankie, already described, the Clan M'lan, or " Macdonalds" of 
 Glenco, had fought in support of the exiled king under the Viscount Dundee, 
 whose death in the field imparted to that victory all the consequences of a 
 defeat. Early in the summer of 1691, a cessation of hostilities was proposed 
 on the part of government by the earl of Braidalbane, and accepted by several 
 of the Highland chiefs, among whom was the laird of Glenco. In the month 
 of August following, a proclamation was issued, by which all who had taken 
 an active part in the former rebellion were promised indemnity, on condition 
 that, within the current year, they should take the oath of allegiance to King 
 William. After considerable demurrer as to the part he should act — whether 
 he should desert the Stuart cause, already hopeless, and embrace the terms of 
 the indemnity — M'lan of Glenco repaired at length to Inverlochy, where 
 Colonel Hill, governor of the fort, was stationed to receive the oath of allegiance. 
 This was late in December ; but Glenco, on presenting himself, was informed 
 that the colonel had no instructions to administer the oath, and that he must 
 apply to Sir Colin Campbell at Inverary, to whom he was furnished with a 
 letter. The journey to this station was much retarded by deep snows, and 
 the almost pathless wastes that lay between Inverlochy and Inverary ; so that, 
 besides being detained for a whole day bj' an officer of government, Glenco 
 had great diflficulty in accomplishing his journey. Three days also of continued 
 storms elapsed before the government functionary, to whom the letter was 
 addressed, could reach Inverary, and when he did so the term of indemnity 
 had expired. Thus circumstanced, Campbell had no power to act ; but moved 
 by the distress of Glenco, and his entreaties to be permitted to take the oath, 
 he administered it to him in due form, a certificate of which, along with Colonel 
 
 VOL. 11. Y
 
 82 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Hill's letter, he immediately forwarded to the Privy Council in Edinburgh. 
 On receiving these, the clerk took the precaution to consult one of the council, 
 who advised him not to lay these documents before the council, as the oath 
 had not been taken within the time prescribed, and was therefore null. Colonel 
 Hill's letter, nevertheless, would have been sufficient evidence as to the intention 
 of Glenco, and showed that his not having taken the oath within the given 
 period was no fault of his, but caused by circumstances over which he could 
 have had no control. This justice, however, was denied him ; neither the 
 letter nor the certificate were presented to the Council. The impression of 
 rebellious disaffection on the part of Glenco was suiTered, without one palliating 
 word in his favour, to kindle into speedy vengeance against the unhappy chief 
 and his people. 
 
 Within five days from the taking of the oath, namely, on the 11th of January, 
 the officers then at the head of the various detachments stationed in this part 
 of the Highlands, received peremptory orders to " proceed with fire and sword" 
 against all those who had not taken the benefit of the indemnity. By additional 
 instructions, signed by the king, under date of the 16th of January— the day 
 marked by the secretary Stair — it was commanded that the rebels should be 
 received only upon mercy ; and that, " if the tribe of Glenco could be separated 
 from the rest of the Highlanders, it would be proper for the vindication of 
 public justice to extirpate that set of thieves !"* For the execution of this 
 barbarous edict, care was taken to employ a detachment from the regiment of 
 Argyll, who were known to be well disposed for such a service, from the bitter 
 feud that had long subsisted between the Campbells and the people of Glenco. 
 About the end of January, in pursuance of strict orders, a strong body of mihtia, 
 under the command of Campbell of Glenlyon, marched from their winter quarters, 
 and, on the 1st of February, entered the doomed valley. Their sudden appear- 
 ance naturally caused some degree of alarm, but on being questioned as to 
 their object, they professed the most friendly intentions, and all suspicion was 
 dropped. For twelve days they were entertained with all the kindness and 
 hospitality which the unsuspecting chief and his people — even at their own 
 
 ' It is obvious that the only distinction that could justly be made between the Glenco men and the 
 Highlanders who had not taken the benefit of the indemnity, was, that the former stood in a much more 
 favourable situation, their chieftain having actually taken the oath. . . The secretary, however, although 
 aware of this fact, entirely overlooked the qualifying words — or, rather, took it for granted that the Glenco 
 men might be separated from the rest of the Highlanders for extirpation. And in his letters to the mili- 
 tary officers, with an outrageous zeal urges the execution of the scheme in the manner and at the season 
 best calculated to render the massacre complete. " This," says he, " is the only season when they cannot 
 escape us" — "This is the time to maul them, in the long cold nights." — Campbell. Garnett, Sfc.
 
 MASSACRE OF GLENCO. 83 
 
 great and personal inconvenience — could bestow. To every individual of that 
 insidious detachment they extended the hand of friendship, and treated them 
 with the warmth of a Highland welcome. But once secure in the heart of 
 the fold, these wolves soon threw off their disguise, and manifested their natural 
 thirst for blood. 
 
 It has been inferred from various circumstances, that the leader of this detest- 
 able expedition was ignorant of the design with which he was ordered to march 
 upon Glenco ; but there can be no doubt that, in Captain Campbell, the 
 government saw an able instrument for the execution of its sanguinary measures, 
 and selected him accordingly. Independently of the warm hospitality lavished 
 upon this officer, and the troops under his command, other circumstances — 
 namely, a close family connexion* — rendered the service, if possible, still more 
 revolting. On the twelfth day after his arrival, Campbell received the following 
 order from his superior, Major Duncanson, then stationed at Ballahulish, the 
 ferry above named. " You are hereby ordered," says the document, " to fall 
 upon the rebels, the Macdonalds of Glenco, and put all to the sword under the 
 age of seventy. You are to have special care that the old fox and his cubs do 
 upon no account escape out of your hands. You are to secure all the avenues, 
 so that no man may escape from the glen. This you are to put in execution 
 at five o'clock in the morning precisely, and by that time, or very shortly after 
 it, I will strive to be at you with a stronger party ; but if I do not come to you 
 at that hour, you are not to tarry for me, but fall on. This is by the 
 king's special command, for the good and safety of the country, that these 
 miscreants may be cut off root and branch. See that this be put in 
 execution without feud or favour, else you may expect to be treated as 
 not true to the king, or government, nor a man fit to carry a commission in 
 the king's service." 
 
 On receipt of this atrocious order, Campbell did not exclaim vnth generous 
 indignation, " We are soldiers, not assassins !" He did not spurn the infernal 
 instrument that vras to brand his name with the crime of murder. He did not tear 
 the insulting document, and cast it in the bearer's face. He did not denounce the 
 infamous plot, and call upon every soldier under his command to resist the order 
 with his blood ! No ; as soon as he had read the death-warrant of his generous 
 host and a confiding people, he took instant measures for its execution. Parties 
 were distributed to every village in the glen, and at five o'clock in the morning, 
 while the inhabitants were buried in profound repose, the massacre began. An 
 
 * A son of Macdonald, chief of Glenco, was married to a niece of Campbell's.
 
 84r SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 inferior officer, named Lindsay, was charged with a special order to see the 
 old chief M'lan put to death. This they knew was a formidable undertaking ; 
 for being a man of athletic form, a true descendant of the " heroes of Fingal," 
 and with a coui-age that shrank from no danger, they well knew that if he once 
 drew his broadsword, he would not fall unavenged. Caution, therefore, was 
 necessary ; and resolving to accomplish by the basest treachery the object of 
 his mission, Lindsay called at Glenco's house, pretending that he was the 
 bearer of a friendly message. The ruse succeeded ; he was admitted without 
 scruple ; and while the old chief was rising from his bed to receive him, a vollej' 
 of musketry from the soldiers stationed at the window, struck their victim 
 between the shoulders,* and left him prostrate in his blood. Several of his 
 domestics were killed on the spot. From his wife's fingers the assassins tore 
 off the rings with their teeth ; she only survived the night ; agony and despair 
 overcame her reason, and the following daj' she died a raving maniac. By a 
 timely warning the chief's two sons escaped ; but thirty-eight of their friends 
 were shot or put to the sword as they woke out of sleep. In Campbell'sf 
 
 • Tliese particulars of his death are slightly varied in the relations by difl'erent authors. — See preceding 
 account, p. 76. 
 
 t The following fact, as illustrative of the religious tenets with which the Highlanders' minds are imbued 
 — particularly as regards that of retributive judgments in this life — may here be aptly introduced. The 
 late Colonel Campbell of Glenlyon, grandson of him who commanded the military at the massacre above 
 related, retained, through a period of thirty years' service in the 42d regiment, the belief that the punish- 
 ment of the cruelty, oppression, or misconduct of an individual, descended as a curse on his children to 
 the third and fourth generations. In 17+8, he was a supernumerary captain in the above regiment, and 
 retired on half-pay. He then entered the marines, and in 1762 received his majority with the brevet rank 
 of lieutenant-colonel, and commanded eight hundred of his corps at the Havannah. In 1771, he was 
 ordered to superintend the execution of a soldier of marines, who had been tried by a court-martial, and 
 condemned to be shot. A reprieve was sent ; but in order to impress a salutary lesson on those around, 
 the whole ceremony of the execution was ordered to proceed until the criminal should be upon his knees, 
 with a cap over his eyes, prepared to receive the volley, and at that moment he was to be informed of his 
 pardon. No person was to be told previously ; and Colonel Campbell was directed not to inform even 
 the firing party, who were warned that the signal to fire would be the waving of a white handkerchief by 
 the commanding officer. When all was prepared, the clergyman having left the prisoner on his knees in 
 momentary expectation of his fate, and the firing party looking with fixed attention for the signal, 
 Colonel Campbell put his hand into his pocket for the reprieve ; but, in pulling it out of the pocket, the 
 white handkerchief accompanied it, and catching the eyes of the party, they instantly fired, and the unfor- 
 tunate prisoner was shot dead. The same instant the paper dropped from Campbell's fingers, and clapping 
 Iiis hand distractedly to his forehead, he exclaimed, " The curse of God, and the curse of Glenco is here 1 — 
 I am an unfortunate ruined man !" He ordered the soldiers to their barracks, quitted the parade, and 
 shortly after retired from the service. His retirement, adds General Stewart,* was not the result of any 
 i-eflection or reprimand, as the unfortunate affair was known to be purely accidental ; but the melancholy 
 impression on his mind was never effaced. 
 
 • Vol. i. p 110.
 
 MASSACRE OF GI.ENCO. 85 
 
 quarters, nine men, including liis kind-hearted entertainer, were bound hand 
 and foot, and then shot ; and a boy, twelve years old, who clung to his knees for 
 mercy, was stabbed. Of those who escaped to the mountains, most perished 
 in the snow ; but, had the detachment from Ballahulish arrived in time to block 
 up the avenues, as was expected, nut an individual would have been left alive. 
 A storm having come on, Diincanson was unable to march from his quarters, 
 and to this circumstance the few that survived that dreadful morning owed their 
 preservation. The same day, every house and hamlet in the glen was destroyed; 
 and the whole of the cattle and other property belonging to the Macdonalds 
 carried off. Such of the women as had not been massacred, nor died of terror, 
 were reserved for a more dismal fate. Driven from their beds, or hunted down 
 by these bloodhounds, and exposed without clothes or shelter in the midst of 
 a snowy waste, six miles from any human habitation, they were found in 
 general either starved to death, or expiring with their children under the frozen 
 rocks and brushwood. 
 
 Many traditions of this massacre are still preserved by the present generation, 
 who refer to the judgments which have since been visited upon the descendants 
 of those who were actively employed in this tragedy. They carefully note, that, 
 while the posterity of the unfortunate gentleman who suffered, is still entire, 
 and his estate preserved in direct male succession to his descendants, the case 
 is very different with the family, posterity, and estates, of the laird of Glenlyon, 
 and of those who were the principals, promoters, and actors, in this infamous 
 transaction. A parliamentary commission was afterwards appointed, by order 
 of government, for the thorough investigation of the affiiir; but this measure 
 had only the effect of placing it in a still more revolting light. The king 
 endeavoured to lighten the odium which attached itself so strongly to himself, 
 by pleading oversight and hurry in subscribing the royal mandates — an excuse 
 which only aggravated the crime. That he was the dupe of his ministers, and 
 had listened with too much credulity to their exaggerated statements respecting 
 the rebellious clans, is certain ;* but as neither these wicked counsellors, nor 
 the actual perpetrators of the measure, were either reprimanded or punislied, 
 the imputation of guilt was strengthened almost to certainty, and it has left an 
 indelible stigma on his reign. It forms a most humiliating contrast to the noble 
 line of conduct pursued by the same monarch towards the persecuted Waldenses 
 of Piedmont. It would be difficult to point out any two features more opposite, 
 
 • Tile earl of Braidalbnne, who was Glenco's private enemy, devoted him to destruction. He repre- 
 sented him at court as an incorrigible rebel, a ruffian inured to bloodslied and rapine, who would never be 
 obedient to the laws of his country, nor live peaceably under any sovereign. — Smollett. 
 
 VOL. 11. Z
 
 36 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 than the massacre of his own subjects in Glcnco, and the spirited mediation 
 with which he interfered in behalf of these Protestants of llie Alps. The facts 
 are totally irreconcilable, and show that the human mind is made up of the 
 most contradictory impulses. The tide of popular indignation against Secretary 
 Stair* ran so high, that he never recovered his standing with the public. 
 
 It is only while contemplating this glen in all its native wildness — such as it is 
 in the depth of winter — and in observing how difficult it must have been to escape, 
 that one feels the full force of the " Secretary Stair's cool blood-thirstiness," 
 as manifested in his letters ; his earnest anxiety to have the passes well guarded, 
 the work done in the depth of winter, and under cloud of night ; when, if any 
 escaped, they must have escaped naked ; and if they did not f;vll by the sword, 
 must have perished in the snow. — But we now take leave of this painful subject, 
 recommending to such of our readers as would wish to examine the facts more 
 in detail, to peruse the documents then published, particularly " the Report 
 of the Commission"f given by his Majesty for inquiring into the slaughter of 
 the men of Glenco. 
 
 From such melancholy details it is a sensible relief to turn once more to the 
 radiant face of nature — to the romantic landscape spread out before us, and now 
 reflecting its rich and varied beauties in the calm bosom of Loch-etive. " Je 
 revenais de Glenco, par le sen tier qui longe le bord du torrent . . . Je me 
 retournais souvent pour considerer les ruines de ce malheureux village !" " Et 
 comment trouvez-vous notre pays, colonel ?" " Admirable !" " N'est-ce pas ? 
 des vues superbes !". . . " Et des femmes charmantes . . . Une, surtout, que je 
 n'ai fait qu'entrevoir."J Here the grand and imposing feature is Ben-cruachan, 
 looking from his " throne of clouds," over the vast congeries of hills that form 
 Ills girdle. This lake, like most of the others so named, is a long arm of the 
 sea, communicating with Loch-awe by means of the river flowing out of the 
 latter. That portion of Loch-etive which expands before the ferry of Bun-awe 
 — the point from wliich the accompanying view was taken — is strikingly beau- 
 tiful, possessing that air of tranquil majesty, that union of the beautiful and 
 
 * In the rebellion of 17*5, the Glenco men were accidentally quartered near the house of his son and 
 representative. When the circumstance was adverted to, some appreht.*nsion was felt lest tlie men might 
 seize on so favourable an opportunity to avenge the massacre. But when this transpired, and they learnt 
 that, byway of caution, they were to be marched to some distance, they at once prepared to return liome; 
 and being questioned on the subject — " We will not,'* they said, " endure insult where we had pledged 
 honourable service I We will not be thought capable of making an innocent man suffer for tile crime of 
 his father.*' The answer is a noble testimony in their favour. 
 
 f This document was subscribed at Holyrood House, the 2Utli day of June, a.d. 1693. 
 
 1 " L'Orpheline de Glencoe."— Prjns, 1836.
 
 I
 
 LOCII-CRERAN. BARCALDINi:.--APPIN. 87 
 
 sublime, which deHghts the eye and interests the imagination, and the charm 
 of which is so greatly increased by tlie soft repose infused into the landscape. 
 At particular periods of the tide, the water rushes out of Loch-etive with a force 
 and turmoil resembling those of a vast cataract. This phenomenon is caused 
 by the contracted channel at its mouth, and a reef of rocks under water. The 
 roar of the water is sometimes so loud as to be heard at the distance of several 
 miles ; but the fall is visible only during spring-tides, and at low water. This 
 remarkable current is believed to be the stream of Lora, celebrated by Ossian. 
 
 Loch-creran possesses nearly the same character in point of scenery — the same 
 union of tiie sublime and picturesque, which distinguishes the surrounding lakes. 
 Its banks are luxuriantly hung with romantic woods, diversified with rocks 
 and promontories, and embellished with rural seats of the landed proprietors, 
 and others, who select these delightful shores for their summer residence. 
 Barcaldine Castle, a lofty and massive structure, occupying a slight eminence 
 on the plain to the south of the lake, throws an imposing feature into the 
 landscape, and conjures up many traditions and warlike associations with deeds 
 of the " olden time." The baronial mansions of Airds, Appin, and Ardshiel, 
 are in the immediate neighbourhood ; and, independently of the splendid scenery 
 in which they are embosomed, each has its domestic annals — its tales of suffering 
 or of loj'al service, which invest the district of Appin with a peculiar charm, 
 and linger in the mind long after the mere landscape has vanished away. To 
 these we shall very briefly advert ; but where such materials abound, it is as 
 difficult to select as it would be ungracious to omit. The more prominent 
 features of the local history, the modern Ariosto has transferred to his graphic 
 page, and what he has adopted he has adorned. 
 
 It is a remarkable fact, that, although surrounded by so many powerful and 
 ambitious neighbours, the Stewarts of Appin preserved their estates entire during 
 the long lapse of four centuries. The first laird of Appin was a natural son of 
 Lord Lorn, the last of the name of Stewart who possessed that title and estate. 
 It appears to have been the intention of Lorn to marry the mother of his son, 
 and thereby legitimize their offspring ; but this honourable intention was defeated 
 by his sudden death, which was supposed to have been accelerated by those 
 who only beheld in the contemplated union the advancement of a rival, and the 
 ruin of their own prospects. The estates, therefore, went to three daughters, 
 coheiresses of Lorn, the eldest of whom married the earl of Argyll, with the 
 lordship and estate of Lorn for her dowry. The second married Sir Colin 
 Campbell of Glenorchy, (see Kilchurn,) uncle to the earl, and received in portion 
 the lands on the north side of Loch-awe, and part of Nether Lorn. The third
 
 88 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 daughter gave her hand to Campbell of Ottar, but, dj-ing without issue, her 
 portion of the Stewart estates went to the children of her sister, the countess 
 of Argyll. But to return to the son. On the death of his father, finding 
 himself left with one sole inheritance, the sword, he resolved to take possession 
 of such portion of the estates as his means enabled him. With this determi- 
 nation, and the support of some of his father's retainers, he appealed for 
 additional help to his mother's family, the Maclarens of Balquiddar. This 
 appeal being answered by a strong reinforcement, Stewart met his two brothers- 
 in-law in a pitched battle, and gained a complete victory. Thenceforth he 
 remained in undisturbed possession of the lands, which, during the long series of 
 generations mentioned, and till finally sold in 1765, formed the family posses- 
 sions of the Stewarts of Appin. 
 
 The Stewarts of Ardshiel, a branch of the same family, have performed many 
 conspicuous parts in the history of their country. The following anecdote 
 respecting the disastrous events so often alluded to in these pages, may, probably, 
 be new to some of our readers. We have already mentioned that Stewart of 
 Ardshiel was among the foremost who espoused the cause of Prince Charles 
 Edward in 1745, and, like many of his brother outlaws, had to consult his 
 safety by retiring to a remarkable cave in this neighbourhood. The mouth of 
 the cavern is singularly protected by a waterfall, which descends like a crystal 
 curtain in front of it, but through which no traces of such an excavation are 
 perceptible. After the defeat of the Highland army at Culloden, the vigilance 
 of the conquering party was a constant source of terror and distress to the 
 inhabitants. By some unknown means, one of the Duke's officers stationed at 
 Castle Stalker — the subject of many curious traditions — got notice that a cave 
 existed in this quarter, and started with the resolution to subject the locality 
 to a minute investigation. It happened that a poor idiot boy, a hanger-on 
 about the family, had observed them approaching ; but, not being in sufficient 
 time to give the alarm, he ran after the party, expressing by his words and 
 gestures a degree of ridiculous astonishment that was highly diverting to the 
 soldiers. The drum, in particular, was viewed by him as an object of the 
 gi-eatest curiosity ; and to gratify this, he kept close to the drummer, whom he 
 affected to regard as a person of the highest consequence. " After using much 
 importunity in order to get the drum to carry, he took out all the wealth he 
 possessed, amounting to sixpence, and offered it to the drummer, provided he 
 would let him hear a sample of the music." For the sake of diversion his request 
 was complied with; but, at the first " tuck" on tiie parchment, the cunning youth, 
 affecting the greatest terror, pretended to run off, which the drummer observing.
 
 STEWARTS 01' INVERNAHYLE. 89 
 
 in order to increase the speed of the fugitive and the laughter of his comrades, 
 thundered away with all his force. The poor idiot was soon out of sight ; but, 
 on looking towards the cave, the soldiers beheld Ardshiel* and a few of his 
 companions, who had been roused by the ominous drum, making their escape 
 in different directions among the rocks. f 
 
 Inveruahyle, on the opposite extremit}' of Lochcreran, will excite attention 
 in the traveller's mind, not more by the beauty of its situation than by its 
 association with the last rebellion, and the circumstances already detailed in 
 our sketch;}: of the battle of Preston Pans. Alexander Stewart, of Invernahyle, 
 as there stated, played a conspicuous part in the fortunes of that day. He had 
 been out in the " fifteen" as well as in the " forty-five," and been an active 
 participator in all the stirring events that had intervened. His most famous 
 exploit was that of having vanquished Rob Roy in a trial of skill with the 
 broadsword, a short time previous to the death of that celebrated hero, at the 
 Clachan of Balquidder. Happening also to be in Edinburgh when the redoubted 
 Paul Jones made his appearance in the Frith, Stewart, who was then far 
 advanced in years, buckled on his arms, and, on examining the edge of his 
 old and well-tried claymore, thanked Heaven that there was yet another chance 
 of trying its temper before he died. Panic-struck at the aspect which this 
 piratical squadron of three small vessels presented, and well knowing the des- 
 perate character of the leader, the magistrates of Leith made little preparations 
 to repulse the aggressor, should he attempt a landing, till Invernahyle proposed to 
 them, that, if broadswords and dirks could be procured, he would engage to 
 find those among his clansmen who would make a right good use of them. 
 The proposal was gladly accepted ; but, unfortunately for the glorj' of the day, 
 a stiff breeze from the west carried Paul Jones clear out of the Forth, and the 
 old claymore was once more consigned to its scabbard. 
 
 • When the lands of Ardshiel were confiscated, Campbell of Glenure was ajipointed steward on the forfeited 
 estate, and under him was James Stewart of Acharn, brother of the unfortunate proprietor. Much dissa- 
 tisfaction, however, arose among the tenants, who could not regard Campbell but as a government spy 
 and interloper. Piqued at this, and willing to retaliate, the latter set about removing the old tenants, 
 and introducing those of his own party in their stead. To accomplish this impolitic measure, he had 
 recourse to legal ejectments, which greatly exasperated the people, and was finally waylaid and shot by an 
 outlaw, named Donald Breck. The assassin immediately absconded ; but suspicion falling upon Stewart as 
 the author or instigator of the deed, the unfortunate gentleman was tried, condemned, and hung in chains, 
 on the spot where Campbell was shot. It was confidently believed, however, that he was sacrificed to the 
 violence of party rage, and was innocent of the crime for which he suffered. — See State Trials, art. Stewart 
 of Acharn, vol. xix. 
 
 f This tradition is supposed to have furnished Sir Walter Scott with several well-known incidents, and 
 to have suggested the character of the " Baron Braidwardine," as well as that of the idiot, " Davy Gellatly," 
 in the romance of " Waverley." — See p. 91. 
 
 X See vol. i. p. 65. 
 
 VOL. II. A A
 
 90 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 Such is the account sanctioned by the illustrious author of Waverley ; but, 
 in justice to the Stewarts of Ardshiel, we shall here beg leave to present our 
 readers with the authentic version of these anecdotes, for which we are indebted 
 to Dr. Leonard Stewart, a gentleman nearly related to the family, and intimately 
 acquainted with every remarkable incident in its history. From this document 
 it will be seen, that, in the principal adventure recorded, the real hero was not 
 Stewart of Invernahyle, but Charles Stewart of Ardshiel ; but as the latter died 
 in exile at Sens, in 1757, long before the time of Paul Jones, the last-mentioned 
 anecdote may be fairly placed to the credit of Invernahyle. The first document 
 respecting the two claimants, and which appears to set the question at rest, 
 is a letter, dated January 8, 1830 — written by the late Mr. Stewart of Glenbuckie, 
 who married a grand-daughter of Ardshiel— and called forth by the perusal of a 
 new edition of Waverley, in which the mistake regarding the rencontre vpith 
 Rob Roy remained unrectified. The letter is addressed to the editor of the 
 Glasgow Courier. 
 
 " In common," says the writer, " with the great proportion of the reading 
 public, I am a fervent admirer of the writings of Sir Walter Scott, and especially 
 of those historical romances, as they are called, in which he has so successfully 
 blended facts with fiction ; and, by detailing the traditionary stores of times 
 gone by, has shed at once light and lustre on the history and character of our 
 native land. I cannot but regret, however, that, of some of the anecdotes 
 which he has introduced — and especially in some of those connected with the 
 Highlands, of which I regard myself as in some degree competent to judge, — his 
 narratives in several instances are far from being correct. One instance among 
 others of this kind lately struck me in reperusing the spirited tale of Waverley, 
 which I think is worthy of being pointed out both to the author and his readers; 
 and of which, therefore, I hope the following notice may not be uninteresting, 
 considering the excitement lately produced in the public mind by the new and 
 improved edition of that novel. At page eighty-three of Vol. VII. mention is 
 made of a duel said to have been fought between Stewart of Invernahyle and the 
 celebrated Rob Roy Macgregor. But the fact is, that none of the family of Inver- 
 nahyle were ever so engaged ; and the true account of the meeting, which took 
 place at the clachan of Balquhidder, is as follows : — Charles Stewart of Ardshiel, 
 who commanded the Stewarts and M'Colls of Appin in 1745, was, previously 
 to that period, desperately in love with one of the three daughters of Haldane 
 of Landrick. There being at that time no made road in the Highlands, the 
 shortest and most direct way from Appin to Landrick Castle was by Landgearn, 
 and the clachan of Balquhidder. Ardshiel paid several visits to Miss Haldane,
 
 STEWART OF ARDSHIEL. 91 
 
 but was not successful. In his last and almost despairing visit, he fell in on his 
 way with Rob Roy, who happened to be at his brother's, at the clachan of 
 Balquhidder. During the course of their conversation a quarrel took place ; 
 and each being provided with an Andrea Ferrara, they immediately encountered 
 in a kail-yard. Ardshiel was the conqueror ; and Rob Roy, on his way up the 
 glen, was not only heard in the greatest fury exclaiming that ' Ardsliiel was 
 the first that ever drew blood of him,' but it is said, moreover, that he 
 threw his broadsword into Lochvail, nearly opposite to Stronvarr House, where 
 there is reason to believe it still remains. But Ardshiel not only conquered 
 Rob Roy — he also won the fair lady; for, on tjie report of the rencontre 
 reaching Landrick Castle, Miss Haldane was so flattered with it, that she 
 favoured his addresses. This account of the matter is well known to several 
 of the inhabitants in the parish of Balquhidder ; and there is no doubt of its 
 being the correct one." 
 
 This encounter is also mentioned by General Stewart of Garth.* " As 
 the laird of Invernahyle was brother to Stewart of Ardshiel, it is probable," 
 says our correspondent, " that, in the many conversations which Sir Walter 
 Scott held with his friend, (the late Stewart of Invernahyle, nephew of the 
 aforesaid,) adventures were related of the chief which were afterwards set 
 down to the name of the narrator. Ardshiel was throughout the ' forty-five' 
 employed in the most confidential transactions, and the most perilous enterprises. 
 He vras one of the first who rallied round the 'Tandem triumphans' standard, 
 and was from the beginning in the council of Charles Edward. He was present 
 at the surprise of Edinburgh, the rush upon the artillery, as already noticed, 
 at Preston Pans, and was employed to cover the retreat from Penrith. He 
 joined other leading chieftains in advising the abandonment of the Lowlands, 
 after the battle of Falkirk ; and even after the disastrous field of Culloden, 
 pledged himself to re-assemble with the remaining Gaelic bands. Soon after 
 this last declaration, however, he was, like his prince, obliged to screen himself 
 from his pursuers, and remained for some months sequestered among the 
 peasantry of the Appin district, until his escape to France. It is probable, that 
 upon this simple web Sir Walter Scott, as above stated, has so beautifully 
 embroidered the tale of the concealment of Baron Bradwardine. Stewart 
 of Ardshiel, who died at Sens, received for many years a voluntary rent from 
 his former tenants, who could never be reconciled to the compulsory system 
 adopted of farming the revenue of the forfeited estates." 
 
 Between the two lakes just noticed, the Creran and Etive, the antiquarian will 
 
 * Sketches of the Highlanders of Scotland. Notes to Vol. II. Append, p. xx.
 
 92 SCOTLAND ILLUSTUATKD. 
 
 be gratified by an inspection of a vitrified fort, and various remains of an artificial 
 description, vi^lncli are supposed to be the ruins of Beregonium, the ancient 
 capital of the Picts. At the margin of the sea, an isolated rocky eminence shoots 
 up, having two flattened summits, each girt witli a vitrified wall, strongly defined, 
 and in some parts exposed to a height of eight feet. This rock is called, in the 
 language of the country, Dun-Mac-Sniachan — " the hill of Suiachau's son." 
 It is barely accessible, except at one end, where it is defended by a second wall ; 
 and at another spot, about the middle of one side, where a broad gap affords a 
 steep approach. The stupendous cliffs in the back ground, overhanging the road 
 and the sea, are called " the hill of the king's town ;" and from the foot of these, 
 a straight raised way, about ten feet broad, said to have been at one time paved, 
 and called " the Market Street," proceeds along the top, within a few yards 
 of the steep green bank which lines the beach leading to the first-mentioned 
 " Dun-Mac-Sniachan." Some years ago, a stone coffin, an urn, and a sandal, 
 were found in the ground behind. A hollow log of wood, turned up at an 
 early period, was readily supposed by many to be a remnant of the water pipes 
 of the royal city. The distinction is farther claimed for this place as being the 
 Selma of Ossian ; and as Selma signifies a beautiful view, the identity may be 
 readily admitted.* It is by no means certain that a city corresponding with the 
 native tradition ever existed in this situation ; but it is evident that a hill 
 fortress, for the protection of the inhabitants, and a beacon-station for alarming 
 them in case of invasion or surprise, existed at an early period in the locality 
 here described. 
 
 Ardchattan Priory, which still diflTuses an air of sanctity over these island 
 scenes, was the pious endowment of John Macdougal, founder of the house of 
 Lorn, and dates from the early part of the thirteenth century — an age peculiarly 
 favourable to all monastic establishments. In this priory, Robert Bruce held 
 a parliament, or council, on which occasion the questions were discussed in 
 Gaelic. After an eventful existence of several centuries, this venerable struc- 
 ture was finally destroyed by Colkitto, during the wars of Montrose. 
 
 The fertile island of Lismore, which rises in gentle undulating hills from the 
 bosom of Lochlinnhe, is chiefly remarkable as the ancient possession of the 
 bishops of Argyll and the Isles ; and a few years since contained a Roman 
 Catholic seminary, or college, under the superintendence of the late bishop 
 Macdonald, who, in the strict observance of his sacerdotal functions, and in 
 his civil intercourse with society, exemplified all the gentle virtues of the man 
 and the christian. He died at an advanced age, after having been blind for 
 
 * Oa this subject, see " Statistics," Anderson, and tourists generally.
 
 LISMORE. — DUNSTAFFNAGF.. 93 
 
 several years. Under his surveillance, from the period of the French Revolution, 
 those intended for tlie Roman Catholic priesthood here completed their studies, 
 and afterwards assumed their functions in various parts of the Iliglilands. 
 We Iiave already adverted to the lime-stone quarries which furnish the 
 chief export of Lismore. The lime is of a quality which finds it a ready 
 market wherever it is known, and affords a lucrative source of revenue to the 
 proprietor. 
 
 On the opposite sliore, near the mouth of Ijoch-Etive, is the celebrated Castle 
 of Dunstaffnage— the stronghokl of the lords of Lorn, and, traditionally, one 
 of the earliest residences of the Scottish monarchy. It is a lofty square, or 
 rather octagonal structure, crowning a perpendicular rock, and accessible only 
 by a narrow outer staircase, which one sentinel could defend against a thousand 
 assailants.* At each of three angles is a round tower, the remaining angle 
 being also rounded ; and on the inner area of one of these is a square building 
 of three stories, and of seemingly modern workmanship, compared with the 
 rest of the castle. Of this portion the roof remains entire, and the flooring 
 in a state of considerable preservation. A small house witliin the ancient walls, 
 erected little more than a century ago, is the only portion of the fortress now 
 inhabited. Tlie circumference of the ancient building is about four hundred 
 feet, and the walls from thirty to fifty feet high, by ten feet thick. It is 
 supposed to have been erected towards the end of the thirteenth century, and 
 was taken possession of by Robert Bruce after his victory over the lord of 
 Lorn, in the Pass of Awe.f It was afterwards inhabited till the middle of the 
 fifteenth century by the lords of Argyll ; and, during the wars of Montrose, 
 Macdonald of Colkitto narrowly escaped falling into the hands of its hostile 
 garrison. J Believing it to be held by his friends, he was unsuspectingly 
 approaching it in a boat, when a faithful piper, himself a prisoner in the garrison, 
 struck up a well-known air, which Macdonald perfectly comprehending, hastily 
 shifted his course and escaped. His escape, however, cost the piper his life ; 
 
 • " Hewn in tlie rock, a passage there 
 Souglit the dark fortress by a stair, 
 
 So strait, so hi^h, so steep, 
 With peasant's staff, one valiant hand 
 Mio;ht well the dizzy pass have manned 
 'Gainst hundreds armed with spear and hrand. 
 
 And plunged them in tlie deep." — Lord nf the Is!es, canto 1. 
 f See the following historical notice at p. 102. " Pass of Awe." 
 
 J From Dunstaffnage, as stated in our notice, Perth, the famous stone or palladium on which the 
 Scottish mnnarclis used to he crowned, was transported to Scoone, and thence to England, where it now 
 remains in Westminster Abbey. 
 
 VOL. II. B B
 
 9t SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 for SO exasperated were the garrison at an incident which had lost them a 
 prisoner of distinction, that they wreaked their vengeance on the faithful 
 adherent. On the battlements two brass guns are preserved which formerly 
 belonged to the flag-ship* of the Spanish Armada, when it was blown up at 
 Tobermory, by a supposed emissary from Queen Elizabeth. 
 
 During various civil commotions, Dunstaflhage was considered a place of 
 great security, and many curious deeds and charters were consequently deposited 
 in it ; of these, it is said, several still remain. The foundation of the Castle 
 is on a mass of breccia. It is still among the number of royal castles, and gives 
 the office of keeper to the duke of Argyll. The Castle is said to have been 
 founded by Edwin, a Pictish monarch — contemporary with Julius Caesar — who, 
 in honour of liimself, called it Evonium. Whether this account be true or not, 
 it is certainly a place of great antiquity. Down to the commencement of the 
 present century part of the ancient regalia was preserved, but at that period, 
 says Dr. Garnet, " it was embezzled by the keeper's servants for the sake of 
 the silver ornaments." An ancient battle-axe is the only relic left. The 
 irregularity of the external walls, as observed in the annexed view, is owing 
 to the angular rocky precipice along which they are carried. At a short distance 
 from the Castle is a small roofless chapel, of elegant workmanship, which has 
 struggled hard to accompany this venerable seat of kings through the various 
 stages of its prosperity, decline, and fall. Within the hallowed enclosure, it 
 is said, several of the Scottish monarchs lie interred. On the south side is a 
 rock — one point of which stretches towards the chapel, and where, if a person 
 be placed on one side of it, and speak loud, the sound of his voice is so distinctly 
 reverberated from the ruin, as to make him imagine that the voice comes from 
 a person within the walls. It is reported that, a few years ago, a man con- 
 tracted a fatal illness on hearing a sermon on mortality read to him by an 
 unearthly voice — proceeding from a person who, in the dusk of evening, had 
 concealed himself on the opposite side of the point mentioned, but which he 
 
 * This vessel, the Florida, is supposed to have contained a great deal of specie, and attempts have been 
 made, by means of diving-bells, to get at the precious stores, or to raise the ship. Guns of brass and iron, 
 among which were those above-mentioned, have been recovered — some of them bearing the marks of an 
 English founder, with the date 1584. A portion of the ship's plank was presented to his late majesty, 
 George IV., on his visit to Scotland in August, 1822. The local tradition respecting this vessel, is, that a 
 daughter of the king of Spain hav ing dreamed that a young man of most prepossessing figure had appeared 
 to her, resolved to sail round the whole world in search of tlie living prototype. On her arrival on these 
 shores, Maclean of Duart realized in the eyes of the princess the being of her fond imaginings. His lady, 
 however, becoming jealous of his attentions to the fair Spaniard, took counsel of the witches of Mull, and, 
 by their agency, the ship was sunk witli the royal object of her resentment. The story has lately been 
 made the subject of a romantic ballad. — See the local history.
 
 SOUND OF KERRERA. — IIACO. 96 
 
 believed came from one of the dead who had left this sepulchre of kings to warn 
 him of Jiis approaching dissolution. Some years ago, the following custom was 
 still in use at Dunstafliiage Castle : — When a company of unexpected strangers 
 arrived — an event by no means uncommon in the Highlands — a flag-stafi' was 
 immediately erected on the battlements, with the expressive ensign of a table- 
 cloth affixed to it. This served as a signal to the tenants on certain lands 
 bordering the sea, to repair to the Castle with salmon, or any other fish then 
 in season ; while others, embracing the opportunity thus afforded of paying 
 their court to the laird, presented any thing else that was rare, or which they 
 thought might be acceptable. But at this period, luxury had not reached these 
 retired shores ; the proprietors lived chiefly at home, subsisting on the produce 
 of their own lands and lakes, and exercising a princely hospitality. Campbell 
 of Dunstaffnage is now the liberal proprietor of this ancient " palace, fortress, 
 and shrine," — 
 
 " Whose walls once echoed to the battle-cry 
 Of haughty Lorn — anJ from whose battlements. 
 Unfurled, tiie flag of Bruce has waved on high — 
 The meteor-star of Scotland's liberty !" 
 
 The Sound of Kerrera, so strikingly depicted in the engraving before us, is 
 one of the most romantic and variegated scenes in Scotland. The island abounds 
 in objects of natural curiosity, and affords the scientific traveller a w^ide field 
 of interesting investigation. The western part, which rises to a great elevation 
 above the sea, exhibits many appearances of volcanic origin. In the page of 
 history it is memorable as the place where, in 1249, Alexander II. breathed 
 his last. He had undertaken an expedition for the final reduction of the 
 Western Isles ; but his fleet, being overtaken by a tempest, sought shelter in 
 the horse-shoe anchorage — a place of great safety in the Sound of Kerrera. 
 On the death of the king the enterprise was abandoned, and the troops returned 
 home with his body, which was afterwards entombed in the Abbey of Melrose. 
 Sailing from Norway some time afterwards, with the largest fleet that ever left 
 his country's ports, it was also at Kerrera that Haco, king of Denmark, met 
 the great body of the Highland chieftains, his vassals. By these he was accom- 
 panied in his disastrous attempt upon Ayrshire, where a tempest and the Scottish 
 host, headed by the grand steward of the kingdom, and encouraged by the 
 presence of their youthful sovereign — son of the deceased monarch — -broke his 
 mighty power, and reduced the Hebrides to the Scottish sceptre. Haco, 
 worn out with fatigue, anxiety, and mortification at his defeat, died on his 
 way home at ICirkwall, in Orkney, in December 1263, The ruins of the Danish
 
 96 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 fort Gylen are pointed out as the site where Alexander died, and where the 
 Danish monarch assembled his vassals on the eve of his catastrophe. In August, 
 1716, General Campbell lay in the Sound of Kerrera, waiting instructions 
 iVoiu the earl of Albemarle to regulate his conduct respecting the capture of 
 Prince Charles, who was then in concealment at Glendossorie ; but, before the 
 general had received his orders, the prince found means to provide for his 
 personal safety by a timely retreat. 
 
 The interesting and romantic appearance of the south end of Kerrera is 
 much increased by the view of Goalan Castle. This beautiful and picturesque 
 ruin is perched on the extreme verge of an almost perpendicular precipice, 
 overgrown witii thick mantling ivy, which climbs from the bottom of the rock 
 to the very battlements of the fortress ; and as the foundations of the building 
 spring from the extreme edge of the rock, the ivy has crept from the one to the 
 other, concealing any little break that might otherwise have appeared, and 
 presenting to the eye on two sides, the rock and the castle, as if forming one 
 solid mass of architecture. On the land side the approach is also very striking; 
 and as the ruins are still in tolerable preservation, a pretty good idea of the 
 original state of the building is obtained. On the front are two stone effigies, 
 called the Piper and the Nurse — two characters of great importance in all 
 Highland families. This castle, once the scat of the lineal descendants of 
 Macdougall of Lorn, the formidable opponent of Bruce, was reduced to its 
 present ruinous condition in consequence of its owner taking part with, and 
 protecting a person named Livingstone, who had killed a son of Campbell of 
 Fauns, and thereby exposed himself to the indignation of that powerful clan. 
 Campbell of Braglin, a man well known in the country for his fierce and 
 determined character, undertook to avenge the death of his fellow-clansman. 
 For this purpose he assembled a band of followers, invaded Kerrera, stormed 
 and burned the castle, committing an indiscriminate massacre on the unfortunate 
 Macdougalls, eighteen of whom were precipitated from the battlements. Among 
 the spoil taken on that occasion was a brooch, which had belonged to Robert 
 Bruce, and had remained for ages in the family. This ancient relic is now 
 said to be in the possession of Macdougall of Dunally ; and the history is so 
 interesting, that we shall here briefly advert to the circumstances which render 
 its loss an epoch in Scotti-sh annals. After his defeat at Methven, being hard 
 pressed by the English, Bruce, with the dispirited remnant of his followers, 
 endeavoured to escape from Braidalbane into the mountains of Argyll ; but 
 in this attempt he was encountered and repulsed by Macdougall, the lord of 
 Lorn — a repulse, however, which displayed the strength and courage of Bruce
 
 I
 
 THE BROOCH. — BRUCE AND LORN. OBAN. 97 
 
 in the strongest light. Arcording to the tradition preserved by the family of 
 Lorn, their chieftain engaged in personal conflict with Bruce, while the latter 
 was anxiously covering the retreat of his men. Macdougall was struck down 
 by the king, who was no less remarkable for his corporeal than for his mental 
 vigour, and would have been slain on the spot, had not three of his vassals, 
 named Mac Keoch, father and sons, rescued him, by seizing the king's mantle, 
 and dragging him from above his adversary. But of these Bruce speedily rid 
 himself by his redoubted battle-axe ; he was so closely pressed, however, by the 
 other followers of Lorn, that he was forced to abandon the mantle, and brooch 
 which fastened it, in the dying grasp of the Mac Keochs : — 
 
 '* "When this brooch,* triumphant borne, 
 Beamed upon the breast of Lorn !' 
 
 Oban is a neat, handsome, and beautifully situated village ; its appearance 
 from the bay is particularly striking. The houses, drawn out in a semicircle, 
 rise from the water's edge, and with a fine basin in front, and a bold undu- 
 lating range of mountains behind, present an appearance highly picturesque. 
 During the gay season, when the shore is crowded with spectators, and the bay 
 enlivened with numerous small craft — as happens during the regatta, when the 
 prize is contested by pleasure yachts — the scene becomes doubly animated. 
 
 For several years past, Oban has been much frequented during the summer 
 and autumn, and has now a name among the fashionable watering places of the 
 country. In addition to its attractions as an excellent sea-bathing station, 
 it has also several powerful chalybeate and sulphurous springs, lately discovered 
 in the immediate neighbourhood. Here the student of mineralogy, and the 
 admirers of Highland landscape, will find ample means of gratification — 
 
 *' Gazing on pathless glen and mountain high; 
 Listing, where from the cliffs the torrents thrown 
 Mingle their echoes with the eagle's cry, 
 And with the sounding lake, and with the moaning sky." — Scott. 
 
 All over the coast evident marks of the former height of the sea may be 
 observed in the formation of regular banks, and in excavations of the softer 
 rocks, vehich it has effected. These are of corresponding elevation, and run 
 along the shores in a direct Kne as far as the eye can reach. The breccia and 
 
 • It appears that great art and expense were formerly bestowed upon the buckle, or brooch, used for 
 securing the plaid, when the wearer was a person of distinction. It was as broad, says Martii-, as an 
 ordinary pewter plate, the whole curiously engraved with various animals. A lesser, worn in the middle 
 of the other, was set with precious stones — a larger one in the centre, and smaller ones surrounding it, as 
 observed in the art of modern jewellery. 
 
 VOL. II. C C
 
 98 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 micaceous schist lie above one another, and proceed together in parallel waving 
 lines. In some instances, the summit of the latter is broken off and shattered 
 to pieces ; but all the detached parts of it are uniformly found embedded in the 
 breccia above it. At the northern side of the bay is a rugged point of breccia, 
 near which is a large portion of the same kind of rock, raised on end ; and 
 close by this, on a precipitous rock of great elevation, stands Dunally Castle. 
 
 Oban is admirably situated for a sea-port; and if it could attract the attention 
 of government, might contribute in no small degree to the prosperity as well 
 as safety of the nation. The bay, varying in depth from twelve to twenty 
 fathoms, and affording anchorage to five hundred sail of merchantmen, is well 
 protected from the westerly winds, and the fury of the Atlantic, by Mull, and 
 other islands adjacent. Its immediate vicinity to the Crinan and Caledonian 
 canals is another advantage which would materially contribute to render Oban 
 a most eligible situation for the establishment of a naval arsenal. The popu- 
 lation is still under two thousand, but annually increasing. The inns are 
 excellent. The air of this Highland sea-port is considered of such remarkable 
 salubrity, that Dr. Aldcorn, a physician of distinguished acquirements and 
 experience, has here established a Salutarium for the reception of invalids, to 
 whom change of air and scene, during the summer and autumnal months, has 
 been recommended. As a centre, from which the stranger or invalid may enjoy 
 the greatest variety of excursions, it would be impossible to select a more 
 desirable position. Exercise and recreation are here within the reach of every 
 one ; and where that is the case, health is seldom far distant. 
 
 " Her bower is by the blue sea wave, 
 Her temple on the steep.'* 
 
 Dunally Castle, above-mentioned, is an ivy-clad square keep, which formed 
 another of the ancient seats of the Macdougalls of Lorn. It is supposed to 
 have been originally a Danish fort ; the walls are of great thickness, but were 
 mutilated by a late proprietor, who removed all the freestone he could quarry 
 from it, to assist in the building of the modern family mansion, which is seen 
 near it. Venerable by its antiquity, " it is somewhat surprising," says a writer 
 who has well described the locality, " that a gentleman very tenacious of the title 
 of chief should destroy this monument of his clan." It may be superfluous to 
 remind the reader, that, around the ancient fastness, the Wizard of the North 
 has waved his magic pencil, " and conjured up a living drama* of love and war, 
 
 • " Lord of the Isles," in which Dnnally Castle is erroneously stated " to overhang Loch-Etive;" and 
 the error is repeated in the last edition, 1836, Note D
 
 I 
 
 LOCH AWE. — ISLE OF BEAUTY. 99 
 
 ■ 
 
 of maidens fair and chieftains bold, that will be rehearsed by Gael and Sassenach, 
 when these very ruins shall have disappeared in the boiling wave at their base." 
 
 We now proceed to a survey of the beautiful Loch-awe, whose isle-bestuddcd 
 bosom and castellated banks give it a just precedence over its surrounding com- 
 petitors. History and tradition have both united to throw a charm over the 
 scene ; the records of war and the wonder-working spirit of romance, have 
 combined to infuse a spell into all its varied features. Its islands, floating like 
 buoyant gardens on the sunny water, have each some relic of ancient times — 
 some stirring tradition to engage the feelings or enliven the fancy. On one 
 of these, religion has left the pleasing evidence of its reign — the remains of a 
 secluded sanctuary, to which the disconsolate repaired for solace, the persecuted 
 for refuge, the tempted for fortitude, the forsaken for comfort, the faltering 
 for the gifts of renewing grace, and all of them, in their turn, for that 
 untroubled repose — 
 
 " That dreamless rest, 
 Of all Heaven's gifts to those who grieve — the best!" 
 
 The islet to which we allude, is the poetical Inishail, or the " Isle of Beauty;" 
 and the deserted sanctuary, that of a Cistercian nunnery, where the silent victim 
 of unrequited love sought consolation in the soothing arms of religion. 
 
 On another island, the name of which— Fraoch-Elan — still recalls its poetical 
 origin, stand the ruins of a castle which Gilbert Macnaughten received as a 
 royal grant from Alexander III. The island was called the " Hesperides" 
 of the country, from the flowers and fruit which enriched it being of the most 
 exquisite fragrance and flavour. The following legend, however, gives a still 
 more striking feature to the resemblance it was supposed to bear to the classic 
 Hesperides — the " Afras Serores" of Latin poets. An adventurous lover, 
 named Fraoch, seeing that Scotland had her Garden of the Hesperides, resolved 
 that she should also have her Hercules ; and at the instigation of a fair idol, 
 named Mego, who had conceived an irresistible desire to taste the enchanted 
 fruit which the island produced, determined to gratify her innocent longing, by 
 laying a full basket of it at her feet. She knew, however, as well as himself, 
 that this fruit was guarded by a huge serpent, the coils of which would have 
 encompassed half the island ; but, along with the desire of the fruit, she had 
 a desire to try the faith and fortitude of her lover, and sanctioned — if she did not 
 exactly command — the enterprize. Love, they say, is blind ; but, in the present 
 instance, he was bold in proportion to his blindness, and scorned every danger 
 and impediment that stood between him and the forbidden tree. Casing himself,
 
 100 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 therefore, in complete armour, with a dirk — for they had no " Doune pistols" 
 in those days — in his belt, and a huge claymore that descended in a steel 
 scabbard to his left heel, he sallied forth at that favourable hour when the snake 
 was wont to indulge in the luxury of a siesta. As he rowed towards the little 
 bay which indented the island paradise, he felt his courage even greater than 
 the occasion which called it forth. The charms of Mego — the gentle " fruit- 
 fancying" Mego — gave fervour to his heart, and fluency to his lips. His voice 
 kept tune, and his oars kept time ; and, chanting her praises as the little prow 
 skimmed the blue wave, he soon reached the calm anchorage, and felt through 
 his whole frame the breezy fragrance of a celestial atmosphere. This, however, 
 did not in the least enervate him ; he had come to slay the snake, and secure 
 the fruit in good earnest ; and, having quite another scent to gratify, he resolutely 
 shut his olfactories against the intruding perfumes, and, directed by the sense 
 of sight only, sprang desperately on shore. At this instant a new world opened 
 upon him ; over his head, boughs laden with delicious fruit, as various in hue 
 as the rainbow, tempted him to indulge his taste. Flowers sprang up at his 
 feet, and filled the whole air with aromatic odours. Leaves and plants distilled 
 ambrosia, celestial music issued from every recess, and he felt as if he had been 
 translated, bodily, into the habitation of spirits. He thought he heard the 
 harp of Ossian, saw the heroes of Fingal gliding through the leafy walks, and 
 almost forgot the lover's errand on which he had come. Collecting his scattered 
 ideas, upbraiding himself with criminally indulging his own pleasure, and never 
 thinking of the fruit, he made up instantly to one of the finest trees in the 
 garden, and set about stripping it in the name of his beloved Mego. " Why," 
 said he to himself, as he crammed the corners of his flowing plaid and pliilibeg 
 with the precious fruit — " why, they told me of a snake ! . . . I see no snake, and 
 fear none!" And so he continued the plunder. The next moment, however, 
 the huge monster was in motion. Opening its hideous jaws, and uncoiling its 
 scaly circles, it advanced in a series of terrible gyrations towards the rash 
 depredator. " So, so !" said Fraoch, with an air of supreme indifference, and, 
 drawing his claymore, placed himself in an attitude of perfect defiance. This, 
 however, did not arrest the scaly monster ; on the contrary, he showed an 
 additional length of sting, and a determination to act on the offensive. " Take 
 that," said Fraoch, " and that !" — striking most manfully to right and left. 
 But, alas ! the edge of his well-tempered blade fell on its scaly armour as if 
 it had fallen upon Macnab's anvil !* His blows were redoubled ; but the snake 
 
 • Names famousamong the ancient armourers of the Highlands. — See M'Nicol's Notes.
 
 LEGEND OF FRAOCII. — PASS OF AWE. 101 
 
 was sword-proof, hissed vehemently, and protruded its forked tongue in such 
 away, that it might have put a whole battalion of the " Black Watch" into 
 bodily fear : but Fraoch thought only of Mego. " Shall the lover of Mego," 
 he asked, " succumb to a snake? — Never!" And he made another swinging 
 stroke with his claymore. Alas, for that stroke ! — it so irritated the dreadful 
 monster, by shearing a slice from its forked sting, that the combat now proceeded 
 to extremities — and literally so ; for while Fraoch was recovering his weapon, he 
 got entangled in one of the coils, and there stood fixed like a nail in Macnuithear's 
 vice.* The horrid animal, too, profiting by the advantage, seized upon that 
 part of his body which some physiologists have described as the seat of honour. 
 We need hardly observe, that as no man has a keener sense of honovu" than a 
 Highlander, no man resents an insult — even from a snake — with more desperate 
 courage. Though writhing under the torture, Fraoch could not die unrevenged ; 
 and, summoning his whole mental and corporeal vigour into one terrible effort, 
 let fall such a blow upon the remaining prong of the monster's sting, that, from 
 the agony it suffered, its coils were relaxed, and the captive was released from their 
 horrid grasp. The snake, having thus lost its sting, rolled itself up in agony 
 and died, while Fraoch had just sufficient strength left to reach, and deposit 
 the hard-earned fruit in the lap of his mistress. " Fairest of the forms of 
 earth," said he, " and gentle as thou art fair, behold the fruit ! . . The snake 
 is slain — the fruit is sweet ! . . . but Fraoch — thy lover Fraoch, is numbered 
 with the ghosts in the airy halls." Mego was inconsolable. Her restless eye 
 wandered between the pale youth at her feet, and the bright peaches in her 
 lap. The bloom on the latter was irresistible, and she resolved, painful as it 
 was, first to enjoy the dessert, and then indulge her unbounded sorrow for the 
 dead. The fruit, indeed, was as sweet to the taste as it was pleasant to the 
 eye ; and as she stripped peach after peach, her relish for the after-part diminished 
 in proportion, and she determined to continue the feast to-day, and defer her 
 sorrow till the morrow. But mark how she was punished : the fruit for which 
 she had so much longed, contained, like other forbidden fruits, a subtle poison, 
 and before sunset Mego ended her life with her repast. 
 
 The Pass of Awe — grand and imposing throughout — is beyond dispute one 
 of the most striking defiles in the Highlands. The scene so ably represented in the 
 engraving, recals one of the most remarkable events in the life of Bruce, namely 
 his advance into the west, which John of Lorn had vainly endeavoured to with- 
 stand. Here, having gained a vantage-ground, which the latter had unwarily left 
 
 * See Note to preceding page. 
 VOL. II. D D
 
 103 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 in his power, Bruce discomfited the Argyll men with great slaughter, and 
 secured the Pass.* 
 
 This defile seems as strong to the eye of a soldier, as it is wild and romantic 
 to that of an ordinary traveller ; but the skill of Bruce had anticipated this 
 difficult}'. While his main body, engaged in a skirmish with the men of Lorn, 
 diverted their attention to their position in front, James of Douglas, with Sir 
 Alexander Fraser, Sir William Wiseman, and Sir Andrew Grej', ascended the 
 mountain with a select body of archery, and thus obtained possession of the 
 heights which command the defile. A volley of arrows descending upon them, 
 directly warned the Argyllshire men of their perilous situation ; and their 
 resistance, which had hitherto been bold and manly, was now changed into a 
 precipitate flight. The deep and rapid river Awe was then, as we learn from 
 Barbour, crossed by a bridge, which the mountaineers attempted to demolish ; 
 but Bruce and his followers being too close on their rear, they had no means 
 of defence, and were dispersed with great slaughter. John of Lorn, suspicious 
 of the event, had early betaken himself to the galleys which he had on the 
 lake. After this decisive engagement, Bruce laid waste Argyllshire, besieged 
 Dunstaffnage castle, took possession of it, and for that of Macdougall of Lorn, 
 substituted a garrison of his own. 
 
 Among the local anecdotes, the following is interesting, and characteristic 
 of the past. — In the early part of the seventeenth century, a young man of 
 the name of Lamont, travelhng from Cowal to Fort William on a shooting 
 excursion, fell in with tlie son of a chieftain, of the Clan Gregor, who inhabit 
 the adjoining district of Glenstrae. Having adjourned together to a public- 
 house, a dispute arose between the two clansmen, which terminated in a scufile, 
 in which !Macgregor was mortally stabbed. Lamont instantly escaping, was 
 hotly pursued ; but, descrying a house, he fled thither for shelter, was received 
 
 * Lorn, it will be remembered, bad espoused the third daughter of the red Comyn, slain by Bruce in the 
 Dominican church of Dumfries; and in addition to other strong motives for resistance, had this also — the 
 ardent desire of revenge. In the former rencontre, the Highlanders under Lorn, being on foot, and armed 
 with long pole-axes, attacked tbe little band of Bruce, where the knights had no room to manage their 
 horses, and did them much harm. Thus beset, the latter was forced back ; but Bruce, placing himself in 
 tbe rear of his followers, protected their retreat with the utmost gallantry. Three Highlandmen, a father 
 and his two sons, assaulted him at once ; but, completely armed, ,ind full master of his weapon, he cut 
 them down one after another, and escaped ; leaving, however, according to the tradition above-mentioned, 
 a royal badge in the dying prasp of his victims. " Look at him," said Lorn, as he witnessed the unequal 
 combat with involuntary admiration, " see — he guards his men from us as Gaul, the son of Morni, pro- 
 tected his host from the fury of Fingal !"* — See Lord of the hits. Notes. Statist. Bruce. 
 
 ' A comparison taken from the ancient poems of Ossian.
 
 ANECDOTE. — KILCHURN CASTLE. 103 
 
 without question, and assured of protection. Those in pursuit coming quickly 
 up, communicated the startling intelligence that the fugitive had blood upon 
 his hands, and was the murderer of tlie eldest son of their chief, the owner of 
 the very mansion in which he had craved protection. Macgregor, however, 
 having promised him shelter, remained faithful to his word ; and, conducting the 
 young man to Loch-fine, saw him safely across. This clemency and magnanimity 
 were not without their reward ; for, not long after, the Clan Gregor being 
 proscribed, Lamont, who owed his life to his forbearance, received the 
 chieftain to his house, and, by every act of kindness to him and his relatives, 
 endeavoured to supply the place of that son, of whose support in the hour of 
 trial he had so unhappily bereaved them. 
 
 Kilchurn Castle, which gives so much life and interest to this beautiful lake, 
 is a capacious structure of great antiquity and strength, remarkable as the 
 bergeait of the Braidalbane family, and, in itself, one of the most picturesque 
 ruins in Great Britain. It is built on a projecting rock, and, when the water 
 is high, completely insulated. The shore immediately adjacent is low; but, 
 on the opposite side of the lake, the rocky promontories of Ben-cruachan rise 
 abruptly from the water, till the gradually expanding mass loses its desolate 
 summits in the clouds. Of the building itself, the exterior walls are nearly 
 entire ; the circular towers, which project on the south and east, prevent the 
 monotonous effect of a too regular line, whilst the magnitude of the pile is such 
 as to give the whole a characteristic baronial grandeur. This effect is particularly 
 conspicuous in the vievi' looking towards Dalmally. The entrance is by a small 
 door-way, with the date 1693 ; but the principal building was erected early in 
 the fifteenth century by the lady of Sir Colin Campbell, the black knight of 
 Rhodes, during the absence of her husband in foreign wars. From a court in 
 the centre, the mass is seen to great advantage, and forms an excellent subject 
 for the pencil. The walls are mantled with ivy, the apartments high, and 
 surmounted by lofty towers, in the solid mansonry of which the wasting hand of 
 time has opened many a yawning fissure. Here, in the times of trouble and 
 predatory warfare, the proprietor found a safe retreat from external violence ; 
 here, when an attack was meditated, and the revenge of injuries summoned 
 every vassal to his post, the chieftain sallied forth at the head of his retainers, 
 and carried the terror of his name into the surrounding districts. Then followed 
 the triumphant return — the shrill note of the pibroch — the division of the spoil — 
 the festive bowl — and the boisterous mirth of a long wassail night. How 
 changed is the scene ! The plash of the water, as a crumbling stone drops from
 
 lot SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 its perch — the moan of the wind, as it ruffles the wild ivy, floating from its crest 
 like a green banner — and the scream of the water-fowl, are almost the only 
 sounds that now interrupt its profound solitude. Its apartments no longer 
 echo to the tread of armed heel, or to the tramp of sentinels ; it stands like 
 a vast sepulchre mouldering over the grave of its princely founders. But, in the 
 still moonlight, in the broad glare of summer, and in the roar of the winter 
 storm, how different is its aspect — how different the associations which it calls 
 forth ! In the first, with the waves of the lake stretched around it like molten 
 silver, reflecting on their bosom, as in a mirror, the shattered outline of its walls 
 and the flash of some stealthy oar, glimmering in the distance, it offers a scene 
 fit to lull the contemplative mind in a delicious reverie — a reverie sweetened by 
 the very melancholy which it inspires. Again, the warder's bugle seems to 
 salute us from the wall ; troops of phantom retainers sweep past us in waving 
 tartan and shining steel ; lights glance forth at every lattice ; the clang of the 
 j)ortcullis, lowered to admit the warrior in his plumed helm ; the sound of music, 
 the shouts of rivalry, all pass in review before us, and we can scarcely bring 
 ourselves to avow that it is " but a dream." See it again in the morning ; 
 like a haggard veteran with his mail hacked, his once brawny arms covered with 
 scars, the sunshine, in whose warmth he feels a glow of returning strength, serving 
 only to expose his miserable plight — so these lofty ruins appear in all the deso- 
 lation of age, and neglect, and poverty. But, in the winter storm, they assume 
 a stately, and even sublime appearance : the thunder breaks on Ben-cruachan ; 
 the blast sweeps through the defile, shattering the forest and chafing the lake 
 into foam ; the boats are drawn hastily upon the beach, the rowers crouch for 
 shelter among the rocks, and over the wdde and desolate landscape, the spirits 
 of the storm execute their terrible commission. Against these abutting ram- 
 parts, the wave, ploughed into deep furrows, now bursts and recoils, and bursts 
 again with redoubled fury. Through the wide unlatticed casements the ruflian 
 tempest howls wdth deafening roar. But, in the midst of this terrible concert, 
 a mysterious voice, far above the storm, and from tlie highest turret is heard 
 exclaiming — 
 
 " Wave may burst, and wind may howl — 
 Lightnings flash, and thunders growl — 
 I shall never fall, but when 
 The sea has covered Cruachan-Ben !" 
 
 The gigantic Ben-cruachan, here named, rises in solitary grandeur over the 
 scene, and from the summit of the mountain issue those waters that supply the
 
 LOCH-AWE. THE FATAI, SPRING. 105 
 
 lake at its base — tlic beautiful Loch-awe. Their source is called the fatal 
 spring — a name originating in the following tradition :* — Bera was the daughter 
 of Grianan the sage, and dwelt in the cave of the rock. Long was the line 
 of her fathers — large and fertile were their possessions : hers were the beautiful 
 vales below, and hers the flocks that roamed on the hills around. To her was 
 committed the charge of that awful spring which was one day to prove so fatal 
 to the inheritance of her fathers, and to her fathers' race. . . .Before the sun 
 withdrew his beams, she was commanded each night to cover the spring with 
 a stone, on which sacred and mysterious characters were impressed. One 
 night, however, this duty was forgotten by the unhappy Bera. Overcome with 
 the chase and the heat of the day, she was seized with heavy sleep before the 
 usual hour of rest. The stone, therefore, remained unclosed, and the long- 
 confined waters, rushing down upon the plain, expanded themselves into the 
 lake of Awe. The third morning Bera awoke from her fatal sleep ; she flew 
 to remove the stone from the spring, but, behold, no stone was there ! She 
 looked mournfully towards the inheritance of her fathers ; she saw only the 
 devastation of her plains. She shrieked ! — the mountain shook to its base ; 
 she fell prostrate on the heath ; her spirit retired to the ghosts of her fathers, 
 in their airy halls! — Such was the poetical origin of Loch-awe. 
 
 To the admirers of Ossian, this country, as before noticed, is all classic ground, 
 the birth-place of heroes, and the native land of the most sublime species of 
 romance. Plere resided the heroes of Fion, or Fingal ; and the traditions of 
 the country are still full of their exploits. — Ben-cruachan, the mountain already 
 named, is nearly four thousand feet in height, with a circumference at the base 
 of about twenty miles. From the north-east the ascent is very steep, sloping 
 gently down on the south, but rising with an abrupt ascent near the summit, 
 which is bicipital. The flanks are covered with natural woods in great variety, 
 and abounding with red deer. The scenery of this mountain has had the 
 singularly good fortune to be celebrated by two of the earliest and most distin- 
 guished of the Scottish bards — Barbour and Blind Harry — the one in describing 
 the arduous struggles of Bruce, and the other in recording the glorious achieve- 
 ments of Wallace. It is a curious circumstance, also, that the two greatest 
 heroes that Scotland ever produced, should both have been victorious in decisive 
 battles fought at the base of Ben-cruachan; and it is gratifying to find traditions 
 still existing among the older inhabitants, establishing the historical fidelity of 
 
 * Communicated to Sir. Lctlice, by the late Dr. Mac Intyre of Glenorchy, from the original Gaelic. — 
 P. 256. Continued, also, in a collection of traditionary Celtic poems, translated by Dr. Smith of Cam- 
 belltown. — Also, Slalisl. //cc. Jrg. p. 403. — Tourist's Guide. 
 
 VOL. U. E E
 
 106 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 those events. On this and the neighbouring mountains, ptarmighan, a rare 
 bird, is to be found in considerable abundance. 
 
 Within two miles of Dahnally, we obtain a charming view of the Vale of 
 Glenorchy, with the Castle just mentioned, rising from the waters of the lake ; 
 but, from whatever point it is seen, the ruins of Kilchurn present a most 
 interesting feature in the scene. Here the landscape is particularly grand, com- 
 posed of all that can " fascinate the eye of the painter, or inspire the soul of 
 the poet." The beauty of the glen is much enhanced by the church and its 
 gothic spire, lately built on an island in the river Urchy, which waters the 
 valley, and over which there is a romantic and picturesque bridge. The point 
 so generally recommended to strangers, is " Burke's View," so called, from the 
 great admiration expressed of it by that very appropriate authority in " land- 
 scape," as well as in literature— the author of the well-known essay on the 
 " Sublime and Beautiful." 
 
 " That glorious Valley with its lake, 
 And Alps on Alps in clusters swelling." 
 
 The approach to Inverary exhibits a very remarkable combination of pic- 
 turesque and imposing features ; and, as the seat of M'Callum More, the " King 
 of the Campbells," calls forth historical reminiscences which cannot fail to 
 interest even the most cursory observer. The most striking feature in the 
 landscape is the hill of Duniquaich, crowned by a watch-tower, luxuriantly 
 wooded, and giving fine and prominent relief to the lordly mansion at its base. 
 The ancient family residence stood near the town, and, in its internal arrange- 
 ments, exhibited a picture of the times and taste for which it had been designed; 
 but, in the modern edifice, ornament has been united with utility, strength with 
 elegance, and baronial stateliness with all those minor considerations which insure 
 domestic comfort. It is built of lapis ollaris, a dark blue pot-stone, resembling 
 the slate-coloured marble of Namur, and after rain presenting a tint almost of 
 a cloudy black. Its castellated style of architecture, with a round tower at each 
 corner surmounted with battlements, gives it an air of imposing grandeur which 
 is in fine harmony with the place and purpose of its erection. Great taste has 
 been displayed in the decoration and furnishing of the interior, which contains, 
 in addition to a splendid suite of state apartments, many chambers of elegant 
 design and stately dimensions. The great drawing-room, hung with Ghent 
 tapestry, is said to have cost eighteen thousand pounds sterling ; and in finishing 
 and ornamenting this princely residence, a sum of not less than three hundred 
 and fifty thousand pounds is said to have been expended since the close of the
 
 INVKRARY CASTLE. 107 
 
 last rebellion. The picture gallery contains several pieces by the ancient 
 masters — some rare, and of great value ; but the collection is of limited amount, 
 compared with the lofty scale of the building, and the station of the noble 
 proprietor. But should the fastidious tourist find little to excite his admiration in 
 the landscape gallery, he has only to take his station at one of the windows, 
 and the face of nature will afford him ample compensation for his disappoint- 
 ment. In the saloon, about one hundred and fifty stand of arms, used by the 
 Campbells at the battle of Culloden, are arranged with much taste and ingenuity. 
 The walks and roads through the woods are numerous, and highly variegated 
 in scenery — here, opening upon the light waters of Loclifine, and there, on the 
 blue mountains of the Gael, which bound the horizon. The river Ary, from 
 which the castle and burgh derive their name, forms in its course many pleasing 
 cascades, to which convenient paths have been cut for the accommodation of 
 strangers. The whole of this demesne is embellished with luxuriant forest 
 scenery, of which the timber alone has been valued at two hundred thousand 
 pounds. The hill of Duniquaich, already mentioned, which towers, in a varie- 
 gated mass of verdure, to the height of seven hundred feet, is a point from 
 which the stranger will enjoy one of the most fascinating lake-and-land prospects 
 in the kingdom. The barren mountains in the distance, furrowed with cataracts, 
 frowning with rocks, and sprinkled with alpine firs, contrast strongly with the 
 high state of cultivation, the sheltered beauty, and the general air of prosperity 
 which pervade the coast. Inverary is, without exception, the most princely 
 residence in Scotland : it embraces a domain of vast extent, every rood of which 
 is kept in the finest order, and exhibits, even to profusion, all the charms of 
 lake, mountain, and forest scenery. 
 
 Of the more conspicuous members of this illustrious house, distinguished 
 alike by its vast possessions, its devoted patriotism, and its ancient power, was 
 Archibald, earl and marquess of Argyll, born in 1598. He was a zealous 
 Covenanter ; and, notwithstanding his opposition to the fanatical schemes of 
 Charles I., was created marquess for promoting a conformity between the churches 
 of England and Scotland. It was by his persuasion that Charles II. visited 
 Scotland in 1651, and was crowned at Scoon. At the Restoration, however, 
 this unfortunate nobleman was committed to the Tower, whence, after five 
 months' confinement, he was sent to Scotland, and being tried and pronounced 
 guilty of high treason, was there beheaded in 1661. "I could," — said he, when 
 brought to the block — " I could die like a Roman, but I choose rather to die 
 like a Christian." He fell with heroic firmness, exculpating himself — and with 
 truth — of having had any hand in the death of his royal master. His generosity in
 
 108 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 declining to take any part in the prosecution of liis arch enemy, Montrose, would 
 have done him great honour, had he not placed himself at a window to mortify 
 the fallen hero as he passed in a cart to receive judgment.* Archibtdd, his son, 
 with less ability, but much greater integrity than his father, fell a victim to the 
 same unhappy fate. He was uniformly steady and virtuous ; and, during all the 
 misfortunes of Charles II., firm to tlie trust which that monarch reposed in him. 
 In every respect he acted a moderate and patriotic part ; for, though strictly 
 devoted to the interests of his sovereign, when the Restoration took place, he 
 honestly refused to acquiesce in the unprincipled and tyrannical measures which 
 the ministers of the crown adopted in Scotland. The result was, that, under the 
 same prince, to whom he had steadily adhered in his utmost adversity, he was 
 brought to trial and condemned without a crime. But, for a time, the rancour 
 of his enemies was frustrated by his escape. In 1685, he, unfortunately, shared in 
 the attempt made by the duke of Monmouth to restore the liberties, and preserve 
 the established religion then invaded by James II. ; and having been taken 
 prisoner, was put to death on his former sentence, in defiance of every principle 
 both of law and equity.f No man ever met his death with greater resignation. 
 On the day of his execution he ate his dinner cheerfully, enjoyed a sound sleep 
 after it, and, on awaking, was led to the scaffold, where he fell with that dignity 
 and composure which became a life of integrity. A third, and more fortunate 
 chief of this family, was John, the second duke. He was bred to the army, served 
 under Marlborough, was brigadier-general at the battle of Ramilies, commandant 
 at the battles of Oudenarde and Malplaquet, and was present at the sieges of Lisle 
 and Ghent. After numerous other services, and high civil offices, in which he 
 benefited his country and gained fresh accessions of honours, he died in 1743, 
 and was buried in Westminster Abbey, where a noble monument is raised to 
 his memory. It is this duke who figures as Macallummore, in Sir Walter 
 Scott's admirable tales of " Rob Roy," and " The Heart of Midlothian." 
 
 The appearance of the town of Inverary, the capital of the county, is neat ; 
 it is well-built, and offers many very pleasing indications of increasing prosperity. 
 That prosperity, however, depends almost exclusively on the fishing and curing 
 of herrings, the season for which commences in July and continues till December. 
 Lochfine herrings are proverbially known as superior to all others, and exported 
 to every fish-market in the kingdom. From fifteen to twenty thousand barrels 
 
 * See vol. i. of tliis work. Art. Canongate, Edinburgh. 
 
 \ It was now that a neighbouring clan was deputed by government to carry destruction through the 
 whole territory of the Campbells. Seventeen gentlemen of that name were taken at Inverary, and 
 executed without even the formality of a trial. Their monument, erected on the spot, commemorates the 
 tragical fact, and, with very laudable moderation of language, the cause in which they fell.
 
 LOCH-FINE. — FISHERY. 109 
 
 of this fisli are taken annually in Lochfine, and bringing a higher price than those 
 taken in other parts of the coast, form a very lucrative branch of trade. Few 
 things can be more amusing to the curious stranger than to accompany the 
 fishermen when they go out in their boats to haul in their nets, as the corus- 
 cations produced by the fish in the water are exceedingly brilliant, and cannot 
 ftiil to surprise and interest every one not previously acquainted with such 
 phenomena. The boatmen, whose civility is proverbial, go out in the evening, 
 and, for a very small compensation, will enable the stranger to indulge his 
 curiosity. A dark windy night is best suited for their purpose ; they ge- 
 nerally ply to windward in order to have a speedy return to market in the 
 morning. After searching about for some time, examining the appearance of 
 the water, the flight of sea-fowl and other prognostics, the fishermen shoot their 
 nets, which are composed of separate pieces bound together with twine : on the 
 upper side is a back-rope, to which buoys of calf or dogskin are attached by 
 means of long lines, and thus the net is raised or lowered at pleasure. The 
 boat is then permitted to be at the end of the net, which serves, in some measure, 
 as an anchor; a sair is converted into a covering for a tent; a fire is lighted, 
 and the song and jest make the time pass lightly till the net is drawn, or a new 
 station selected. The fishermen contrive to make excellent cakes, and have 
 a method of dressing the fresh-caught herrings that might tickle the palate of 
 the most fastidious epicure. If the visitor has taken care to fill his own scrip, 
 and replenish his flask before coming on board, he will have no cause to regret 
 the length of the voyage. Three or four, and, at times, as many as five hundred 
 boats are to be seen on these occasions, " darkling in the silvery moonbeams," 
 and taking their stations opposite the town. Each of the boats is manned 
 by three or four men, who have regulations by which they are compelled to 
 abide, in respect to their modes of fishing, their hours, and their stations. 
 Much of their success depends on the proper depth to which the nets are sunk, 
 as the herrings sometimes pass over and sometimes under them. It is a 
 beautiful sight to behold the surface of the water silvered, as it sometimes is, 
 by the glancing play of immense shoals which crowd up to the very head of 
 the Loch, pursued by flights of sea-fowl, hovering over them with ceaseless 
 screams. By these signs the experienced fisherman discovers the particular 
 haunt which they have chosen ; for, in this respect, they often seem to be guided 
 by habit, though more frequently by accident or caprice. But to this we shall 
 again advert. 
 
 At East Tarbert the aspect of the shore is particularly forbidding, and, owing 
 to many sunken rocks, the entrance to the harbour is very critical ; but when the 
 
 VOL. II. F F
 
 110 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 vessel is once in, no place can be more secure or commodious. On the left, in 
 gloomy elevation, towering on a sullen crag, stand the ruins of Tarbert Castle, 
 formerly the stronghold of the M'Gilchrists, then of the M'AHsters, and now 
 the property of Campbell of Stonefield. The walls are eight or nine feet 
 thick ; the stair is in the west side, and underneath is an arched vault. The 
 sunnnit of the hill was formerly surrounded by a strong wall, and numerous 
 bastions ; and on the west side are several outworks, still popularly called the 
 barracks. In 1261, the church of Kilcalmonell, the parish to which Tarbert 
 belongs, was granted to the monks of Paisley ; and soon after, Dovenald 
 M'Gilchrist granted to them a right of cutting all kinds of timber in the woods 
 of Tarbert. Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, in order to obtain an undisputed 
 claiui to every place round which he could pass in his boat, caused his barge to 
 be drawn across the isthmus, which at this place is only a mile broad, with all 
 the pomp of chivalrous times.* Tarbert was also the place of rendezvous 
 chosen by James IV. when he proceeded with his nobles to reduce his rebellious 
 subjects of the Western Isles to obedience; and of the unfortunate Earl of Argyll 
 in 168.5, previous to his descent upon the Low Country, where, as well known 
 to our readers, he was defeated, taken prisoner, and afterwards beheaded. The 
 first grand object for erecting this Castle, was to check the incursions of the 
 Irish during that turbulent period when the Lords of the Isles were sovereigns 
 of Can tyre, and of the greater part of Argyllshire. 
 
 The habits of the people employed in the Tarbert fishery are industrious, 
 orderly, and even religious. Each boat, as before stated, is generally furnished 
 with three hands, one of whom is the master, who defrays the whole cost, and 
 receives a double share of the profits arising from the fishery. He is also 
 exempted by law from impressment. The proprietors of boats subscribe a 
 certain sum weekly to a fund — a species of insurance — out of which they are 
 indemnified for the occasional loss of nets. The greatest number of fish taken 
 at a single draught on this station, is stated at forty-one maizes, each containing 
 
 * The ceremony, as performed by Bruce, is thus described by Sir Walter Scott, in his " Lord of 
 the Isles:" — 
 
 " It was a wondrous sight to see 
 Topmast and pennon glitter free, 
 High raised above the greun-wood trees, 
 As on dry land the galley moves 
 By cliffs, and copse, and alder groves." 
 But, as Dr. James Johnson has observed, it is a much more wonderful sight to see the steam vessel 
 of the present day darting across the same isthmus— by the Crinan canal, a little farther north— without 
 the assistance of human muscles — without oars, or sails. — The Recess.
 
 EAST TAUBEKT. — CASTLE. 
 
 Ill 
 
 five hundred herrings, and selHng for about ten shilhngs. In casting their nets, 
 the fishermen observe the supposed injunction of our Saviour to St. Peter, 
 always casting them on the right, or starboard side of tlie boat. In like manner 
 the time of sailing is regulated by many superstitious observances ; but a cloudy 
 evening, as already mentioned, is considered the most propitious. Once under 
 weigh, and weather permitting, they light their fire and prepare supper, consisting 
 of fish, potatoes, oat cakes, porridge, and molasses ; from the latter a very 
 pleasant liquor is brewed in various parts of Scotland, called treacle-beer. If 
 the night be stormy, the repast is deferred ; but for which compensation is made 
 by a moderate allowance of whisky, of which there is always a small " reservoir" 
 on board ; for, " let the world sink or swim, the Tarbert man must have his 
 dram." It is very rarely, however, that this habit is carried to excess. The 
 paternal vigilance and exhortations of their pastors have been very successful 
 in checking a vice to which so many other fishermen have become irrecoverably 
 addicted ; and it is worthy of remark, that, among this humble class, the practice 
 of family worship is not uncommon. When out on the deep, watching their nets, 
 the fishermen, after supper, not unfrequently kneel down in united prayer, 
 concluding their devotions by singing a hymn. This excellent and pious habit 
 is also kept up in the same form when ashore, and, as Martin informs us, is 
 the invariable practice among the rude fishermen of St. Kilda. Of their respect 
 for the sabbath in Tarbert, some idea may be formed by their refusing to carry the 
 luggage of a neighbouring proprietor across the isthmus on that holy day. If any 
 dispute arises among them, it is adjusted by arbitration, for which three seniors 
 are appointed, and thus the too often ruinous process of litigation is prevented. 
 The same happy method of settling differences is practised among the primitive 
 Christians of the Alps — the Waldenses — and also, in some instances, among the 
 miners of Cornwall. — " On one occasion," says an observer, " I found the 
 harbour of East Tarbert in a state of much excitement. The people were all 
 standing at their doors with smiling countenances, whilst a perpetual discharge 
 of fire-arms from different parts of the harbour greeted the ear. Soon after, 
 a procession, headed by the national music of the bagpipe, descended the hill, 
 some of whom returned from their muskets the martial salute of their fellow- 
 townsmen. It was a wedding party ; a young fisherman was tlie bridegroom, 
 and the whole procession moved on to the church, where the minister offered 
 up a prayer on behalf of the young couple, followed by a suitable exhortation — 
 both in the Gaelic tongue. The friend of the bridegroom took off his glove, 
 a young girl performed the same oflBce for the bride, and the marriage cere- 
 mony concluded according to the simple form of the Scottish Church. There
 
 112 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 is an excellent school in Tarbert, supported by the Edinburgh Society for the 
 Propagation of Knowledge, and some of the heritors of the place. 
 
 Continuing our route towards Loch-long, the eye and mind are continually 
 refreshed by a succession of wild and romantic landscapes, whicli open and shut 
 at almost every turn of the road, and present the most inviting subjects for the 
 pencil. At the head of Loch-fine, the road winds gently through Glenfinglas, 
 a fine pastoral valley, watered by a beautiful stream, and encircled by green 
 hills that rise in smooth acclivities to a great height, and then, throwing off 
 their verdant mantle, terminate in crests of naked rock. Crossing the Kinglas, 
 the road bends off to the right, and winding through an interval in the hills into 
 Glenlochan, opens on the celebrated Pass of Glencroe, which, in its prominent 
 features, bears a close resemblance to that of Glenco. On one hand, the 
 mountains present a range of noble precipices of mingled, dark, overhanging 
 rock, interspersed with patches of green pasture, and terminated by a bold, 
 sharp, and serrated outline. The descent through Glencroe is rapid ; but 
 for those who come in the opposite direction, it is a toilsome march. By the 
 wayside is a semicircular stone seat, erected at the summit of the pass, bearing 
 the inscription, " Rest, and be thankful "■ — an exhortation which commemorates 
 its formation in 1748, by the military then occupying the pass. Twenty years 
 later, it was repaired by the twenty-third regiment, as recorded in the same 
 inscription. This road, though in general well made, is injudiciously laid down, 
 and on that account, it has been proposed to form a new line from the head 
 of Loch-long, in a more northern direction, and thereby obviate the necessity 
 of passing through Glencroe. But, without a parliamentary grant, this very 
 desirable improvement must fall to the ground. Whoever has read Livy's 
 description of the Pass of Tempe, in Thessaly, will remai'k how nearly it 
 corresponds with that of Glencroe.* The phenomenon of a thunder-storm in 
 such a situation as this, presents a truly sublime, and even terrific spectacle ; 
 and the occasions for such a treat arc neither " few nor far between." 
 
 One of the caverns in this savage glen might have passed, says Stoddart, " for 
 the grotto of a Naiad, designed with peculiar fancy. At one end the sun-beams, 
 admitted through different apertures, played upon the water ; at the other, 
 a small cascade glanced at intervals through the gloom ; the sides are wrought 
 into various odd forms by the whirlpools ; and, in one part, a natural chair is 
 scooped out of the rock." This glen, savage and dreary as it now appears, was 
 
 • Sunt enim Tempe saltus transitu difficiles, nam praeter angustias per quinque millia, qua exiguum 
 jumenti onusto iter est, rupes utrinque ita abscissa sunt, ut despici vix sine vertigine quadam simul 
 oculorum animique possit. — Lib. xliv. c. 6.
 
 LOCH-GOIL. SCENERY ADJOINING. 113 
 
 once partially inhabited. High up the mountain, traces of cultivation are 
 visible, and, being inaccessible to the plough, must have been dug by the hand.* 
 On another part are the remains of a shieling, or chalet, to which, in the summer 
 months, as practised in Switzerland, a whole family resorted with their cattle, 
 and returned again to the valley in winter. " But this," as the shepherd 
 feelingly added, " was when the country was inhabited." The introduction 
 of sheep to these pastures led unavoidably to the expatriation of the old inha- 
 bitants. The system of farming which now prevails over almost the entire 
 Highlands, is incompatible with the existence of population. This is a topic 
 on which it is painful to dwell, and which was justly estimated by an amiable 
 nobleman, who told his stewards that " he would rather see one human being on 
 his estates than a hundred sheep." 
 
 Along the borders of Loch-goil and Loch-long, the natiural sterility of the soil 
 is partly concealed, and its savage grandeur agreeably diversified, by extensive 
 woods, which cover the land near the coast, and extend their waving verdure 
 along the rugged flanks of the mountains. To strangers unaccustomed to 
 Highland landscape, and who will make a boat-excursion up Loch-goil, when 
 the weather is sunny, and the surface of the lake is serene, the scenery which 
 then developes itself at every few strokes of the oar will afford convincing 
 evidence that there are few spots, even in the Highlands, where Nature has 
 arrayed herself in more varied and imposing features. The mountains are 
 lofty, but present at intervals the most opposite character; here, piled in 
 rugged Cyclopean masses, hollowed into dismal and dripping caverns, frowning 
 in precipices ; and there, so smooth as hardly to inteiTupt the undulating pasture 
 by a single rock. These hills, which, till the introduction of sheep, were 
 covered with the natural produce of dark mountain-heath, have now undergone 
 a pleasing transformation ; and, not unfrequently green to the very summits, 
 want only a few chalets scattered along their acclivities to recall to the traveller's 
 mind some of the most pleasing scenes in Switzerland. Here, indeed, there 
 are no glaciers — the source of that exuberant vegetation which distinguishes 
 the Swiss Alps ; but, from the frequent showers which here drop from the 
 passing clouds that float over these mountains, reservoirs are formed, which, 
 descending through innumerable ramifications, keep up vegetation, and provide 
 a rich summer pasture for the flock. In looking down from these pastoral, 
 or rocky regions, the eye is always refreshed by the bright expanse of some 
 
 • Probably by the cascrom or foot plough, an implement much more efficient than the spade, and pecu- 
 liarly adapted for mountainous districts. The reader will find a drawing and description of this instrument 
 in Mr. Logan's well-known work, " The Scottish Gael ;'' a production of great research, and contain- 
 ing a rich fund of information on Highland topics. — Vol. ii. p. 90. 
 
 VOL. ir. G G 
 
 I
 
 Hi SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 romantic estuary or inland loch, which, in many respects, may vie with the more 
 celebrated of the Helvetian lakes. The latter may be enclosed in a bolder 
 frame-work, but, with one or two trifling exceptions, they are destitute of the 
 " fairy isles," which, scattered along their surface, give so peculiar a charm 
 to the Highland lochs, and of which the beautiful Loch-awe and Loch-lomond 
 afford striking examples. 
 
 " Behold our lakes !"' the Swiss exclaims, 
 " Like gems encased in gorgeous frames — , 
 Those mirrors, where the snowy Alps 
 Sleep with the sunset on their scalps. . . ." 
 " Nay, look at ours," replies the Celt, 
 " Each girdled with its mountain belt 
 Of rock, and tower, and forest trees, 
 And gemmed with island sanctuaries ! 
 Like floating palaces they seem, 
 The Elysium of a poet's dream: 
 I grant ye rocks and glacier-snows, 
 Where sunset leaves a lingering rose ; 
 But every lake without its isle 
 Is Beauty's cheek without its smile." — MS. 
 
 On winding round the head of Loch-long, girdled by a romantic shore, this 
 fine arm of the sea is seen to great advantage, and never fails to command 
 admiration. Its mountains send down into the water a series of inclined arms, 
 or ridges, of singularly irregular and indented outline — each hinder one pro- 
 jecting beyond the extremity of that which is nearer, closing in towards the 
 centre of the vista, as if they all obliquely converged to one point. Their lower 
 portions are covered with copse-wood, or brought into culture ; while above, 
 they exhibit a pleasing alternation of grey rock, purple heath, and verdant 
 pasture. One of the mountains at the head of Loch-long, Ben-Arthur, presents 
 a singularly bold and fantastic outline ; and, from an imaginary resemblance 
 to that personage when stooping over his last, has obtained the characteristic 
 designation of the " Cobbler" — whose lap-stone may justly be considered the largest 
 of any in the craft. Persons disposed to enterprises of danger and difficulty, may 
 here find ample scope for such indulgence, in scaling the rugged side and giddy 
 precipices, which even a practised chamois-hunter would traverse with cautious 
 dehberation. The finest object on the banks of Loch-long, is Ardgarten, the 
 seat of Campbell of Strachur. The view of Loch-long from the Pass of Glencroe 
 is greatly admired.* 
 
 • The conflict so ably introduced by the painter, represents one of those scenes of cattle-lifting (in 
 Gaelic parlance a creach or foray) and reprisal which, in former times, were familiar occurrences in these 
 wild passes, and the cause of many sanguinary contests, with this understanding, that " he might take 
 who had the power, and he might keep who could."
 
 i 
 
 I 
 
 I
 
 LOCH-LONG. — LOCH-GOIL. 115 
 
 Loch-Goil branches off in a north-westerly direction from Loch-long. On 
 a rock overlooking the western coast, are the remains of the Castle of Carrick — 
 once a royal residence, but burnt by the Atholl men, and now reduced to a mass 
 of ruins. Loch-goil, it will be remembered, is the scene of the pathetic ballad, by 
 Campbell, of "Lord Ullin's Daughter;"* — a poem of unrivalled beauty, and in 
 which the effects of the storm are vividly depicted. 
 
 During the memorable invasion of Scotland by Haco, king of Norway, in 
 1264, a squadron of sixty ships, or galleys, commanded by Magnus, king of 
 Mona — the Isle of Man — sailed up Loch-long; and, dragging their boats across 
 the isthmus connecting it with Loch-lomond, launched upon the latter, laying 
 waste its shores and islands, in which many of the neighbouring inhabitants 
 had found, as they supposed, a secure refuge. This is the country of the Mac- 
 farlanes, the ancient lords of the soil ; and at the head of the lake is Loch- 
 sluagh, where the numerous retainers of these chieftains were wont to assemble. 
 Near the latter was once a fir plantation, says tradition, to which, on occasion 
 of some clannish feud, the men of Atholl repaired, and lay in ambush to surprise 
 the chief of the Macfarlanes : but his son Duncan being apprised of it, sur- 
 rounded the plantation on a Sunday evening, and setting fire to it, consumed 
 the Atholl men in the flames. The mansion-house of this ancient chief is now 
 converted into an inn. 
 
 DUNBARTON-SHIRE, OR, THE LENNOX. 
 
 " How wide the lake in limpid beauty smiles 
 
 Round the green yews that shade the Lomond isles, &c. 
 
 See, old Alclutha to the sight displays 
 Her rock, impregnable in ancient days ! 
 From the broad stream its whitening summits rise, 
 Like famed Parnassus, towering to the skies." 
 
 Clyde, a Poem. 
 
 LocH-LOMOND, SO justly considered one of the most picturesque lakes in the 
 world, lies principally in Dunbartonshire. It is nearly thirty miles long, and at 
 its southern end, eight or ten miles broad ; but towards its northern extremity, 
 its breadth is contracted to less than a mile. Its depth varies from sixty to six 
 
 • Having some doubts on this subject, we consulted our friend Mr. Campbell whether this lake was the 
 poetical one, and were happy to have his confirmation before applying to it the stamp of classic ground.
 
 UG SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 hundred feet. Thirty islan-ds, mostly habitable and of various dimensions, are 
 scattered over its surface ; some rising to a considerable height, and most of the 
 larger ones finely shaded with wood. Of the latter, Inch-murrin, upwards of a 
 mile and a half in length, is used by the duke of Montrose as a deer-park, and 
 when we last saw it, maintained an abundant herd. Inch-lonaig, another island 
 about a mile long, is converted to a similar purpose by the proprietor, Sir James 
 Colquhoun, of Luss, Bart. The waters of this lake are supposed to have in- 
 creased very considerably during the lapse of ages ; and in Camstradden Bay, 
 more than a hundred yards from the shore, the ruins of submerged houses are 
 said to be still visible under water. In former times Loch-lomond was supersti- 
 tiously renowned for three wonders, " waves without wind, fish without fins, and 
 a floating island." To the last of these Wilson alludes in his " Clyde" — 
 
 " That cliarraing isle the distant sight deceives, 
 Which floats lil<e Delos on the ambient waves ; 
 Where Delos' god, deceived, first pours his beams — 
 The dome so like his ancient temple seems." 
 
 Among the finest points of view which present themselves on the borders of 
 this magnificent lake, are those beneath Tarbet, from Inveruglas, with Ben-lomond 
 in the distance, from the head of the lake looking southward, (as ably delineated 
 in the annexed engravings,) and from the village of Luss. The lake is now 
 daily traversed by commodious steam-vessels, the decks of which will afford 
 tourists the best station for enjoying its grand and imposing scenery. 
 
 Like that of some other Highland lakes, the surface of Loch-lomond often 
 displays what is termed the blue heJt, the usual precursor of storms, and caused 
 by that unequal agitation of the atmosphere in the vicinity of lofty mountains, 
 which produces a corresponding inequality on the surface of the water. On 
 this cause also depends one of the "wonders" above mentioned, namely, "waves 
 without wind." During the great earthquake at Lisbon, as already noticed, 
 the surface of this lake was thrown into violent agitation, and a boat carried forty- 
 yards beyond the ordinary limits of the water's edge. As we proceed northward, 
 the breadth of the lake gradually diminishes, so that its finely wooded banks are seen 
 to still greater advantage. To the right towers the colossal mass of Ben-lomond, 
 the summit of which commands one of the most extensive and highly diversified 
 prospects in Europe — a prospect in which Nature is contemplated in her wildest 
 and most awful form. From this point, all the principal mountains of Scotland, 
 and no less than nineteen lakes, are visible. So extensive, indeed, is the view, that 
 it is hardly possible to convey even a faint idea of it in description, or to express 
 the feehngs of astonishment that take possession of the mind when we are so
 
 BEN-LOMOND. — LOCH-LOMOND. 11" 
 
 fortunate as to reach the summit in fine weather. The spectacle of a thunder-storm, 
 which we once beheld at that elevation, formed a scene of indescribable grandeur 
 and sublimity. The mountain, in its catalogue of rare plants, furnishes a wide 
 field of entertainment for the botanist. Like all primitive mountains, it is formed 
 of granite and micaceous schist, with large masses of quartz embedded in it. On 
 the borders of the lake various specimens of red jasper have been found, which 
 had been washed down from the summit and polished by long attrition. 
 
 Ben-lomond, and the lands extending along the whole eastern shore of the lake, 
 were formerly the property of Rob Roy, whose name is identified with several of 
 the more remarkable features in the landscape. At a short distance up the country 
 is Inversnaid* fort, built in 1713 to repress his daring inroads ; not far from 
 which is the dreary cavern, so often described as Rob Roy's Cave, and said also to 
 have afforded shelter to " the Bruce" after his defeat at Strathfillan. About a 
 mile above Rowardenan is Rob Roy's Rock, rising abruptly from the water to the 
 height of thirty feet perpendicular, and flat on the top. From this platform 
 the hero of the scene was in the habit of letting down, by means of a rope fas- 
 tened round their waists, such of his hostages or prisoners as refused to comply 
 with his demands. If, after being again drawn up, they still persisted in their 
 obstinacy, they were lowered a second time, with a gentle hint that if their 
 sentiments should continue unaltered, the next experiment should be suspension 
 by the neck. — In concluding this vpry brief sketch, we cannot do so with a 
 stronger testimony in favour of the scenery under notice, than has been already 
 pronounced by Smollett :f — " I have seen," says he, " the Lago di Garda, Albano, 
 De Vico, Bolseno, and Geneva ; and, upon my honour, I prefer Loch-lomond to 
 them all." If the genius of Rousseau, Voltaire, Gibbon, De Stael, and Byron, 
 has bequeathed so many magical associations to the lake Leman ; the enchanting 
 creations of Scott have conferred on this, and the neighbouring lakes of the 
 Trosachs, the spell of fascinations no less powerful and enduring. 
 
 We now cross the frontier of the once redoubted clan Gregor, whose proscrip- 
 tion, suffering, and persecution, are familiar to every reader. The following is the 
 incident which brought on a legalized warfiu'e of extermination against them, 
 and, in all probability, excited King James VI. to make the battle of Glenfruin 
 
 • Inversnaid Mill, wiih the bold scenery adjoining, is the scene of Wordsworth's beautiful poem, 
 beginning — 
 
 " But I, methinks, till I grow old, 
 As fair a maid shall ne'er behold 
 As I do now ; the cabin small — 
 The lake — the bay — the waterfall — 
 And thee! — the spirit of them all." 
 t Miscellaneous Works, vol. vi. p. 269. 
 
 VOL. 11. H H
 
 118 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 the signal for every wrong and oppression. The act alluded to, so revolting 
 in its nature, and followed by such terrible consequences to the Macgregors 
 (but who, it must be remembered, were only secondary in the transaction) is 
 thus recorded : — A party of young men, Macdonalds of Glenco, having been 
 found trespassing in the royal deer-forest of Glenartney, were sentenced by 
 the under forester Drummond-Ernoch, to have their ears cropped for the trespass, 
 which was immediately carried into effect. In retaliation for this barbarous 
 act, Drummond was waylaid and killed by the kinsmen of the Macdonalds, 
 while providing venison for the grand banquet which was to welcome Anne of 
 Denmark to the Scottish throne. Not satisfied, however, with the death of 
 the individual, they planned a further act of diabolical vengeance, and, having 
 cut off his head, adjourned to the house of Mrs. Stewart of Ardvorlich, 
 Drummond's sister. From her, who little suspected the atrocious murder of 
 which they had just been guilty, they received a cold reception, having only 
 bread and cheese set before them. Her husband being from home, she left 
 the room where the uninvited guests were sitting; and they, taking advantage of 
 that interval to effect their fiend-like revenge upon an innocent and defenceless 
 woman, placed Drummond's bloody head upon the table with a morsel of the 
 bread and cheese between the jaws. On Mrs. Stewart's return to the apart- 
 ment, the ghastly spectacle caught her eye, the shock overcame her reason, 
 and, in a few minutes, as if pursued by some terrible spectre, she rushed to 
 the mountains, a piteous and distracted maniac. To excite a still deeper 
 interest for the object of this barbarous experiment, she was in that state which 
 demanded from her family every mark of indulgence — expecting shortly to 
 become a mother. The murderers, gratified at having so well succeeded in 
 their vengeance, hastened from the spot to the church of Balquhidder, where the 
 Macgregors and their chief, laying their hands on the head of Drummond, swore 
 on the altar* to defend the authors of the deed. 
 
 News of the murder, and its consequences, spread in every direction ; and 
 government, determined to make a lasting example of the clan, issued " letters 
 of fire and sword" against the Macgregors. Among those appointed to carry 
 these instructions into execution, Colquhoun of Luss was indefatigable. On 
 the other hand, Alexander, chief of the Macgregors of Glenstrae, at the head 
 of Loch-awe, was anxious to effect a reconciliation ; and, having solicited a 
 conference for that purpose, set out with two hundi-ed of his clan, to a place 
 appointed in the valley of Leven : but, on their return from this conference, 
 
 * This was made the subject of " Clan Alpin's Vow," a spirited poem, by the late Sir Alexander Bos- 
 well, Bart. See " Legend of Montrose," Append. No. I. p. xx. ed. 1832.
 
 LOCH-LOMOND. — CLAN GREGOR. 
 
 11^ 
 
 they were treacherously beset near Glenfruin, by their inveterate enemy, 
 Colquhoun, with eight hundred of his retainers and neighbours. Macgregor, 
 however, having been secretly apprised of this treacherous design, kept his 
 men on the alert. Colquhoun, confident in his superiority of numbers — four to 
 one — began the assault with a vehemence which, for a moment, appeared to 
 carry every thing before him. This, however, was speedily checked by the charac- 
 teristic firmness and desperation with whicli the Macgregors stood the onslaught. 
 As the latter gained ground, their aggressors began to waver, and at length took to 
 a precipitate flight, leaving two hundred of the name of Colquhoun, besides others, 
 dead on the field, and many prisoners in the hands of the Macgregors. 
 
 Besides the mortification of this signal defeat, the Colquhouns had to deplore 
 a catastrophe far more painful than the loss of battle, and which converted their 
 wounded pride into agony and despair. The principal part of the youth 
 of the adjoining district being then at school in Dunbarton, and hearing of 
 the conflict which was to take place on that day between their friends — many 
 of them family connexions — and the Macgregors, had stolen off to witness the 
 combat, and assist in the triumph in which it was confidently expected to end. 
 Before the action commenced, however, their parents and friends judged it 
 proper to confine them, amounting to about eighty, in a barn, till the conflict 
 was decided. But the result being very diiferent from what tJiey anticipated, 
 the barn was taken by the Macgregors, who, in the heat of pursuit, left a guard 
 in charge of it. Either from accident, however, or the inhuman act of the 
 party there stationed for its preservation, the barn caught fire, and the unhappy 
 children were suffered to perish in the flames. To this tragical occurrence, 
 or atrocious cruelty, may be attributed the numberless calamities with which 
 the clan Gregor were afterwards visited. A partial statement of all these 
 occurrences was drawn up and presented to James VI. A procession of sixty 
 widows, whose husbands had fallen on that day, mounted on white palfreys, 
 and bearing on long poles, upwards of two hundred bloody shirts — tokens of 
 the slaughtered Colquhouns — gave efiect to the representation, and succeeded 
 so well with the king, that from that hour the clan Gregor was outlawed, their 
 lands confiscated, and their very name doomed to extermination.* Driven to 
 
 • As early as 1 563, the parliament of Scotland passed an act of attainder and forfeiture against the laird 
 of Macgregor, then in possession of the estate of Glenstrae, in Glenorchy. Other severe enactments suc- 
 ceeded the first; and in 1633 an act was passed, declaring it " unlawful for any man to bear the name of 
 Macgregor ; that no signature under that name, no act or agreement entered into with a Macgregor, 
 was legal. That, to take the life of a man of that clan, was not an act of felony, nor any way punishable; 
 and that no minister or preacher should at any time baptize or christen any male child of the Macgregors." 
 And, the better to facilitate their extirpation, they were hunted with blood-hounds, trained to follow on 
 the track, and thus discover the haunts and hiding-places of the unfortunate clan. These were measures
 
 120 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 acts of desperation by this treatment — unmerited as it certainly was — they 
 became notorious for acts of daring reprisal, and famous as systematic leviers of 
 black-mail. Among these, it uiay be superfluous to mention " Rob Roy ^lacgre- 
 gor," whose life and exploits have been so ably depicted in the novel of that name. 
 
 The sound of the bagpipe in these glens fully corroborates what has been 
 observed by Gibbon, in his " Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire." — " Expe- 
 rience," says he, " has proved that the mechanical operation of sounds, by quicken- 
 ing the circulation of the blood and spirits, will act on the human machine 
 more forcibly than the eloquence of reason and honour." Of this, the annexed 
 anecdote offers a remarkable illustration : * — Beyond all memoi-y or tradition, the 
 favourite instrument of the Scottish musicians is the bagpipe — introduced, as 
 some have supposed, from the ancient Norwegians. The large bagpipe is the 
 instrument of the Highlanders employed in war, in funeral processions, for 
 marriages, and other great occasions. The smaller pipes are more generally 
 used for dancing tunes. A certain species of the wind music called pibrochs, 
 
 which throw almost into shade the terrible system of persecution by which the inhabitants of Piedmont 
 and Dauphiny were hunted from cave to cave, and from rock to rock ; and with whom — forgetting what 
 has been done and suffered in our own country — we so keenly sympathize. Theirs was religious, this poli- 
 tical persecution. " And yet," says General Stewart, " this species of Algerine law did not destroy, nor 
 apparently influence in any manner, that spirit of loyalty, so characteristic of the Highlanders, which 
 the Macgregors evinced in the Great Rebellion. All of them who could caiTy arms — although under 
 assumed names — ^joined Montrose, and through his whole campaigns proved themselves loyal and true, 
 always ready to bear a part in the execution of his most daring attempts. Of the value of their services 
 to his father and himself, Charles II. was fully sensible ; and one of the first acts of parliament, after his 
 restoration, was to rescind that of 1633, and re-establish the name of Macgregor with all its natural and 
 legal rights. . . .But this relief was of only brief duration ; for, only five years after the Revolution, the 
 original act was renewed, under King William, and the Macgregors placed in the same state as in 1633 ; 
 and which, though not enforced, was allowed to remain a blot on the statute-books till the parliamentary 
 session of 1774-5." —History of the Clan Gregor, Stewart's Sketches, &c. 
 
 As a contrast to the preceding, we refer to the high office they were called on to fill at the memorable 
 epoch of 1S22, when his late majesty George IV. visited his Scottish dominions. " We saw with parti- 
 cular interest," says the historian of that day, " the clan of the Macgregors — whose sufferings and 
 proscriptions are so well known— come forth so gallantly to attend the crown of Scotland, ' which still 
 they love, because their fathers wore.' " The tartan of the clan is red, with a sprig of mountain fir in the 
 bonnet. The high office of depositing the regalia in the castle, to which the Macgregors are hereditarily 
 entitled, we have already alluded to in a former part of this work. This clan, who trace their descent to 
 the Alpine kings, and thence called Clan-alpine, was once numerous in Balquhidder, Monteith, and 
 Glenorchy ; and they are still in great numbers in the district of Fearnon, on the north side of Loch-Tay, 
 on the south side of Glenlyon, in Fortingall, and on the north side of Loch-Rannach. 
 
 • At the battle of Quebec, in April 1760, while the British troops were retreating in great confusion, 
 the general officer complained to a field officer of Eraser's regiment of the bad behaviour of his corps. 
 " Sir," answered the latter with some warmth, "you did very wrong in forbidding the pipes to play : 
 nothing encourages Highlanders so much in a day of action — nay, even now, they would be of use." 
 " Let them blow then like the devil," replied the general, " if that will bring back the men." The next 
 instant the pipes struck up a favourite martial air : the Highlanders no sooner heard their native pibroch, 
 than they faced round, and formed with alacrity in the rear.— The Scottish Gael, &c.
 
 ROB ROY MACGREGOR. — INVERSNAID. 121 
 
 rouses the native Highlander in the same manner that the sound of the trumpet 
 rouses the war-horse, and even produces effects little less marvellous than those 
 recorded of the ancient music. But to return to our subject. 
 
 Rob Roy, or the red, the reputed chief of Clan-alpine, or the Macgregors, and 
 pourtrayed with such remarkable fidelity by Sir Walter Scott, was the second 
 son of Donald Macgregor of the Glengyle family, formerly a lieutenant-colonel 
 in the king's service. His mother was a daughter of Campbell of Glenlj-on, 
 and, consequently, Rob was a gentleman by birth. He received an education at 
 that time considered liberal, or at least suitable for the line of life in which he 
 was destined to appear. Being of strong natural parts, he soon acquired the 
 necessary but rude accomplishments of the age ; and with a degree of native 
 hardihood, favoured by a robust and muscular frame, he wielded the broadsword 
 \vith such irresistible dexteritj', as few or none of his countrymen could equal. 
 "Wlien unruffled by opposition, his manners were complacent ; but where danger 
 appeared, he was resolute and daring ; and became no less remarkable for his 
 knowledge of human nature, than for the boldness of his achievements. Many 
 of his earliest and happiest days were spent in cattle dealing — -a business in 
 which many Highland gentlemen, as well as their tenants, engaged. On succeed- 
 ing to his paternal estate, however, he began to have higher views in life ; and 
 being invested with unlimited command over a few faithful vassals, he exercised 
 his authority in levying the tax of black-mail in the adjoining counties. The 
 purpose of the exaction and payment of black-mail resembles, in some degree, 
 the reciprocal advantages of a modern insurance office. Rob Roy extorted this 
 tribute from the farmers and small lairds around ; and in return, not only insured 
 their property from the plunder of his own clan — which would otherwise have been 
 unavoidable — but also engaged to employ his power and influence in protecting 
 it from other predatory incursions, and in restoring it when taken away, to the 
 losers, at his own risk. This impost, — which was in some degree necessary in 
 such a country, and not without its peculiar benefits — had long been suffered 
 to prevail in the Highlands, and, having the sanction of many ages, was consi- 
 dered neither unjust nor dishonourable. The custom of carrying off the cattle 
 of other clans was still kept up ; and Rob Roy engaged so deeply in the practice, 
 that in a short time he became obnoxious, not only to his neighbours, but to the 
 government. His predatory excursions were for the most part directed against 
 the Lowlanders, whom he considered as his natural enemies, and who were 
 opulent and less inclined to military resistance. By the severe enactment which, 
 as above mentioned, rendered it capital to bear the name of Macgregor, Rob 
 Roy assumed that of Campbell, the maiden name of his mother ; and, accordingly, 
 
 VOL. II. I I
 
 122 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 in a writ dated 1703, he was denominated Robert Campbell of Inversnaid, his 
 paternal inheritance, which extended for some miles along the eastern border 
 of LocH-LOMOND. From embarrassments, however, the estate had fallen into the 
 hands of the duke of Montrose, but on this condition, that it should revert to 
 the original proprietor as soon as he could repay the sum advanced to him by 
 Montrose, which was only a part of the value. Finding himself, some years 
 later, in a condition to redeem his paternal lands, he brought the money to the 
 duke, and requested to be reinstated in his inheritance. This offer was rejected, 
 and an adjudication obtained in behalf of Montrose, which deprived Macgregor 
 of any future claim. He contrived, however, to levy the rents of the alienated 
 lands ; and on one occasion, when Graham of Killearn, the duke's factor, had 
 received a year's rent from the tenants, he was compelled to refund it in a manner 
 little to the satisfaction of his master. Killearn had imbibed all his chieftain's 
 hostility towards Rob Roy ; and after the business of the day was over, and 
 money collected to a large amount, he loudly declared that the ponderous 
 money-bag should be the property of him who should bring the Highland free- 
 booter into his presence. Macgregor, who, on occasions of moment and interest 
 to himself might almost be said to enjoy an ubiquity, was near enough to hear 
 this friendly declaration. With his wonted circumspection and celerity, he 
 ordered his gillies to take their stations, two by two, around the house, as a 
 precaution against any unexpected arrival, and to prevent an escape, should 
 any be attempted. He then boldly entered the apartment w^here the factor was 
 seated in the midst of a group of tenants who had just emptied their purses 
 into his. " Well, Killearn," said the fearless free-booter, " here am I, Rob 
 Roy Macgregor, the greatest enemy your master has on this side of purgatory — 
 I claim the proffered blood-money. — Produce the bag !" The factor, who at first 
 stared at Macgregor with as much amazement as if he had been a spectre from 
 the grave, was quite astounded at this demand — more especially as it came from 
 a person whom he well knew it was fruitless to refuse or resist. Accordingly, 
 he began, as well as a faltering voice would allo\v, to work on the feelings of 
 his unwelcome visitor. " No whimpering for me," said Rob, striking the table 
 with his fist, " down with the bag!" — The demand was instantly complied with, 
 and the unfortunate factor was compelled on the spot to give the tenants receipt 
 in full for their rents. " One word more," said Rob, " and our business is 
 settled for this time; swear by your salvation that you will neither raise an 
 alarm, nor divulge one circumstance that has passed at this interview, before 
 the expiration of two hours." The oath was accordingly administered and taken. 
 " Now," said Rob, in conclusion — " now I have done with you, valiant factor.
 
 DUNBARTON CASTLE. — THE CLYDE. 123 
 
 But, hark ye — if you attempt to break your oath, remember you have a soul 
 to save ; and remember, too, that Macgregor lias a dirk which lias let daylight 
 into stouter men than Killearn." Thus they parted, and in a very brief space 
 Rob and his gillies were counting the contents of the bag at leisure among the 
 fastnesses.* This anecdote will remind the traveller of " Terracina," and the 
 feats of " Fra Diavolo." 
 
 The Rock and Castle of Dunbarton are among the most interesting objects 
 in the west of Scotland, and by their picturesque appearance offer the most 
 striking point of view on the Clyde. Our space in a work of this kind being 
 extremely limited, admits only of a brief and imperfect sketch of this remarkable 
 fortress. The rock consists of a huge mass of basalt, five hundred and sixty 
 feet in height ; j- the sides nearly perpendicular, and, in some places, slightly 
 columnar ; the base washed by the Leven and the Clyde ; and the summit, as 
 seen in the drawing, divided and surmounted by walls of considerable elevation. 
 Its remarkable form and impregnable nature must have pointed it out, from the 
 remotest times, as a place of strength and security, and till the invention of 
 cannon, impregnable. It appears to have been the Roman station called 
 Theodosia — the farthest point to which that power had penetrated, and where the 
 famous wall, already mentioned, terminated. Its modern name is evidently 
 derived from Dunbritton, the hill-fort of the Britons ; or from Dun-bar-ton, 
 the town of the hill-fort. Harding,^ who wrote in 1334, says, that it was so 
 surrounded by water that no force could take it ; and that the tide flowed round 
 it twice in twenty-four hours. By this it would appear, that either the rock 
 was insulated by the river, or that it was detached from the surrounding river 
 by a fosse, in which the water ebbed and flowed with the tide. The ground 
 in the vicinity, however, bears evident marks of having been formerly covered 
 by water. The surface of Lochlomond is now only twenty-two feet above the 
 high-tide level of the Clyde, while it is known that the western sea rose several 
 feet higher § than at present ; so that it must have covered all the low grounds on 
 the borders of the Clyde, and rendered Lochlomond an arm of the sea. In 1333, 
 the period above mentioned, the rock is described by Froissart as " standing 
 upon the marshes over against the wild Scottes" — that is, on the immediate 
 frontier of the Highlands. It must have been an arduous undertaking in rude 
 ages to render the summit accessible, and to give it the necessary means of 
 defence. It is now ascended by different flights of steps ; before the placin"' 
 
 * For many other traits and anecdotes, all liiglily characteristic of this renowned freebooter, the reader 
 may consult the notes to the last editions of " Rob Roy," his "Life," and the "Legend of lIoNxnosE." 
 t Lumsden. t Vide Oban. § Garnelt.
 
 124 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 of which, great labour must have been required to cut the rock. The view from 
 the western pinnacle, which is thirty feet higher than the eastern, is exquisitely 
 grand. On the north are seen the smiling vale and silver meanderiugs of the 
 classic Leven — Smollett's " Leven." Beyond, is the lake of Loch-lomond, from 
 the margin of which rises in awful majesty the cloud-capt Ben-lomond. Looking 
 up the Clyde, the prospect, as far as Glasgow, is exceedingly beautiful ; while 
 the view down the river is no less striking for its extent, than for the irregular 
 mountain outline of Argyll, which closes in the perspective. 
 
 In the guard-house, a portion of an immense sword was formerly shown, said 
 to have been that of the illustrious "Wallace. A few years ago, this precious 
 relic was removed to the tower of London, where it was repaired and sent back 
 to the armoury, where it is now to be seen. The town of Dunbarton is chiefly 
 famous for its glass-works. Some jjarts of the rock are strongly magnetic, causing 
 a compass, when brought near it, to vary considerably. Professor Anderson of 
 Glasgow, many years ago, made experiments on this subject, and marked with 
 paint those parts which possessed magnetism, with the direction of the poles.* 
 
 Before quitting this interesting scene, we select from its annals one of those 
 daring and romantic incidents of which, since the days of Wallace, it has so 
 often been the theatre. We allude to the escalade in 1571. 
 
 After the assassination of the earl of Murray, as detailed in the present work, the 
 two parties, who distinguished themselves as " king's-men" and " queen's-men," 
 prepared for war. A third party, led by Sir William Drury, assisted Lennox, 
 father of the murdered Darnley, in laying waste the vale of the Clyde. Among 
 various other advantages gained by the young king's party, was the following, 
 — an extraordinary feat of courage and dexterity. Crawford of Jordanhill, an 
 enterprising officer, undertook the hazardous exploit of storming the almost 
 impregnable Castle of Dunbarton, which had hitherto remained in posses- 
 sion of the queen's partisan. Lord Fleming. With this desperate aim, and 
 supported by a handful of soldiers, he advanced to the foot of the rock under 
 favour of a misty night. Ladders were cautiously placed at their disposal ; but 
 when they looked up to the dark precipice and compared their frail means with 
 the end proposed, the soldiers could hardly regard it but as an act of madness. 
 Their words, however, were necessarily few and low. " To-night," said Crawford, 
 addressing his right-hand man — " to-night we shall outdo the old story of the 
 Capitol!" "Yes, and that of the Numidian fortress, too." "Fear nothing; 
 
 Garnettj vol. xiii. — Buclianan also observes: " In superiore arcis parte, ingens est saxum, niagnesii 
 quidem lapidis, sed ita caeterae rupi coagtnentatum et atfliaerens, ut commissura omnino non appareat." — 
 Scot. Hist. lib. XX. 28.
 
 SURPRISE OF THE CASTLE. 125 
 
 the guns, like the garrison, have been long ofF duty — sound sleepers on those 
 very battlements they should guard ! Our sole antagonist is the rock ; and this 
 surmounted, we shall have sumptuous fare to indemnify us for the exploit." 
 " An up-hill march, truly," observed one of the adventurers, as he cast his eye 
 up the wall-like rock. " And in case of a rather hasty descent from the half- 
 way ?" "Promotion, and a pension, of course — 'tis little more than a hundred 
 
 feet, with a few notches to break the fall." ..." Nay, tell that to the ' friar of 
 Tungland ;'* for, to gain that crest, a man, methinks, must either have the 
 friar's wings, or a crab's claws. . . ." 
 
 " Now, my men" — whispered Crawford, who observed that they were becom- 
 ing rather curious as to the height of the ramparts — " know j'e not that the Lord 
 Fleming and the Archbishopj- have invited us to supper? Let us taste their cheer; 
 and they who dislike the governor's soup shall have the bishop's absolution." 
 
 " Pity," said another, " that the way to mess is not a little smoother! 
 But never mind; guests who arrive by the steepest way, are sure to contract 
 the keenest appetites in the ascent." " Thus," said Jordanhill, " I ascend in 
 the king's name ;" placing at the same instant his foot in the ladder, and fol- 
 lowed by the others, who had pledged their lives in the cause. " Now," he 
 added, " not a syllable till we stand on the summit." 
 
 They proceeded in profound silence, drawing the ladder after them, and 
 refixing it at every spot of the rock where they could gain a footing. A 
 more perilous enterprise it is impossible to imagine. But, to a certain degree, 
 the darkness was favourable, as it concealed the abyss over which they hung, 
 with an uncertainty that even a breath of wind might have turned to their 
 destruction. Example, however, nerved the followers ; while the leader himself, 
 knowing that doubt or hesitation on his part would be fatal to the whole, kept 
 his eye steadily on the rampart, and continued his determined progress. When 
 about half way up, however, an incident occurred which had nearly proved fatal. 
 One of the party, whilst in the act of ascending the ladder, was seized with a 
 
 • See his flying leap from Stirling, described in vol. i. pp. 167-S, of the present work. 
 
 f John Hamilton, Archbishop of St. Andrews, then in the fortress. (See History of that time.) — 
 This prelate, it will be remembered, was highly obnoxious to the king's party on account of his pro- 
 fession, his family, and his talents ; and being already attainted by parliament, lay open to their severity, 
 which was carried to the uttermost, as already stated in our account of Stirling. That he deserved this 
 fate, is, says Sir Walter Scott, highly probable. He was proprietor of the Kirk of Field, in which 
 Darnley was blown up; and of the no less fatal lodging at Linlithgow, from which the Regent Murray 
 received his death-wound ; and there was little doubt of /lis being on both occasions aware of the purpose 
 to which the lodgings were to be applied. But his execution, without even the semblance of trial, in 
 the heat of a civil war, was calculated to add fuel to its fury, and became the example and justification of 
 numerous atrocities practised by way of retaliation. 
 
 VOL. II. K K
 
 126 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 fit of epilepsy. Thus, the profoundest silence being necessary, they were thrown 
 into the most embarrassing difficulty ; for, by his falling, or the noise unavoidable 
 in attempting to remove him, the most imminent hazard arose of their discovery. 
 It was a moment that demanded instant decision. An expedient was suggested 
 and adopted. The invalid was made fast to the ladder, which was then turned, 
 so that his comrades passing over his breast, pushed forward to the summit. 
 Surmounting the wall, they surprised the ill-watched garrison, who were too 
 confident in the strength of the castle to keep a due guard, and carried the place 
 by an attempt unequalled for its daring intrepidity, and whicli may recall the 
 capture of Edinburgh Castle by Randolph, as already mentioned in this work.* 
 The consternation of the garrison may be conceived, when, wakened from tlieir 
 dream of fancied security, they heard the voice and saw the flashing sword of 
 Crawford, as he headed his band of desperadoes, and pronounced them his 
 prisoners. The governor escaped by a hasty retreat to the river, but the 
 archbishop was secured before the alarm had reached him ; escorted to Stirling, 
 and there executed, in the manner already described.-|- 
 
 To this rock the monkish traditions of the country have ascribed an origin 
 very different from that given to it by modern geologists. It is this : — 
 St. Patrick, the tutelar saint of Ireland, was a native of Dunbartonshire, born in 
 the parish of Kilpatrick, where he devoted his whole energies to the preaching 
 of the gospel. His success was marked by a numerous train of proselytes ; but, 
 while the saint was thus bringing his countrymen out of darkness into light, 
 Satan was watching him with malignant eye, and labouring, by every fiendish 
 machination, to interrupt the good work. He found his own votaries gradually 
 deserting his standard, and taking up their cross with the pious and indefatigable 
 Patrick. In haunts where the shout of bacchanals was so lately heard, the 
 blessed sound of hymns and spiritual songs now threw a sanctity over the spot, and 
 in the ear of the arch-fiend sounded like the " pseans of open rebellion." Feeling 
 his empire on these shores already tottering under him, he summoned to his 
 aid the witches and magicians from the neighbouring caves ; and to them, as his 
 faithful servants, expounded the wrongs he had sufiered, and was likely to suffer, 
 through this audacious rebel, Patrick the preacher. . . .The word was hardly 
 spoken, when those faithful auxiliaries flew to execute their commission, and, 
 by innumerable enchantments, beset the good Patrick night and day, till, 
 concentrating the whole powers of darkness into one terrible effort, they finally 
 compelled him to retreat, but were not permitted to take away his life. No, 
 he had other work before liim ; and, committing himself to a small open boat 
 
 » Sec vol. i. pp. 90— 93. f iVe -vol. i. Art. " Stirling."
 
 SMOLLETT. — ST. PATRICK. — DALXOTAR HILL. 127 
 
 on the Clyde, proceeded on his way to Ireland, where he was much needed. 
 Exasperated at this escape, and well knowing that so long as he lived the 
 fugitive would preach open rebellion against Satan their master, the magicians, 
 like the giants of old, snatched up huge rocks from the mountains adjoining, 
 and hurled them, like hand-grenades, against the saint ! The whole scheme, 
 however, proved abortive — St. Patrick was beyond their reach ; but the reader 
 will hear with amazement that the colossal rock of Dunbarton was one of the 
 identical fragments used by the magicians on that memorable occasion. 
 
 Among the eminent men to whom this county has given birth, is the celebrated 
 Dr. Tobias Smollett, whose writings as a novelist, poet, and historian, have 
 secured for liim a lasting fame in the literature of his country. He was the 
 grandson of Sir James Smollett, of Bonhill, Bart., a gentleman of property in 
 the county, member of the last Scottish parliament, and a commissioner in 
 framing the Union. The monument erected to the memory of Smollett, 
 with a very classical inscription, is a lofty pillar of the Tuscan order, judiciously 
 placed on the banks of his native Leven.* His tomb in the cemetery of Leghorn, 
 near which he died, we have often visited in company with his countrymen, whose 
 first step of pilgrimage on that part of Tuscany is generally to the " grave of 
 Smollett,"-]- the marble obelisk of which is covered with their names. 
 
 One of the most beautiful views on the river Clyde, is that from Dalnotar hill, 
 near the village of Kilpatrick. Here the river is of ample breadth ; its shores 
 are highly cultivated ; and beyond, in lofty gradation, successive ranges of moun- 
 tains form a magnificent back-ground. On a point of land stretching from the 
 right to the middle of the picture, the ruined castle of Dunglas presents an inte- 
 resting feature ; while in the distance, the twin-crested rock of Dunbarton rises in 
 
 • In the neiglibounng parish of Killearn, across the Stirling frontier, a handsome obelisk announces 
 the birthplace of George Buchanan. The whole of this romantic district is richly studded with gentle- 
 men's seats, embosomed in woods, and commanding the most varied prospects of lake and mountain. 
 Among these is Buchanan House, the superb family seat of the duke of Montrose. — MS. 
 
 t In a diary written many years ago, the author finds the following memorandum :— " Leghorn, Sept. 27, 
 Rode out to view Smollett's Villa ; it is situated about two hundred yards up the western 6ank of Monte 
 Nero, opening on the Mediterranean, with its islands in front, and the bold chain of the Apennines on 
 the right. Behind, it is completely sheltered by the hill, which is here ploughed into numerous furrows 
 and ravines by the sudden torrents that swell on the summit after rain, and precipitate themselves into 
 the sea. These, however, are concealed by a luxurious underwood of myrtle and other shrubs and plants, 
 impregnating the whole air with aromatic odours. A higli wall surromids the whole, and the garden 
 appears to have been laid out in the English style. Nothing seems here wanting to have realized the 
 gifted proprietor's warmest anticipations of an ' Otium dignilate.' Scarcely, however, had he entered the 
 house, (too rashly, says his friend Mrs. Parbridge,) and slept in a green painted room not then quite dry, 
 when he was seized with the fatal malady which speedily carried him off. But the residence of Genius, like 
 some spot where we have held converse with spirits, is stamped with an impression which no circumstance 
 of time or change can obliterate."
 
 Jg3 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 isolated grandeur. On either hand, the slopes and shores are sprinkled with 
 
 country seats, villages, farms, cottages interspersed with bays and promontories ; 
 
 and the river itself enlivened with all the indications of a great mercantile city. 
 
 LANARKSHIRE. 
 
 And now we trace the steps of ** those who bide 
 
 Around the valley, where the ' Douglas' stream' 
 
 Devolves from mossy hills his dusky tide, 
 
 Fast liy the castle of that haughty name ; 
 
 And those who dwell where ' many-falling Clyde' 
 
 Sweeps down by * Bothwell's towers' of massy frame ; 
 
 And by the green where Glasgow's daughters lave, 
 
 On summer days, their robes within the crystal wave." — Tennant. 
 
 This rich and picturesque county is generally denominated Clydesdale, from 
 the river Clyde, which, dividing it longitudinally, traverses it in a winding 
 course for the space of more than sixty miles, and then expands into the noble 
 Frith, which wafts the trade of Glasgow to the ocean. The county is divided 
 into three wards — the upper, middle, and lower ; each under the jurisdiction of 
 a sheriff substitute. The upper ward, comprising nearly two-thirds of the 
 county, is mountainous ; the middle, though less so, is diversified by numerous 
 inequalities; but, on every spot susceptible of improvement, the effects of 
 judicious agriculture are strikingly manifested. Localities which, at the close of 
 the last century, exhibited an aspect of unconquerable sterility, have now under- 
 gone a complete change, and become sites of industr}', or the sources of abundant 
 harvests. The lower ward, which is almost covered by the city of Glasgow, 
 and the populous villages adjoining, exhibits a scene of uninterrupted beauty 
 and fertility, realizing the motto — " Let Glasgow flourish!" while her poet 
 exclaims — 
 
 " As shines the moon among the lesser fires 
 Unrivalled Glasgow lifts her stately spires ; 
 For Commerce, glorious with her golden crown. 
 Has marked fair Glasgow for her favourite town." 
 
 The poet and the utilitarian, however, contemplate these transformations under 
 very different lights. While the latter points with exultation to the vast sources
 
 CITY OF GLASGOW. — CATHEDKaL. 129 
 
 of industry thus opened up, to tlie rapidly increasing population, to tlie numerous 
 monuments with wliich successful trade has embellished the landscape, to the 
 lordly mansion and its demesne, rising on the site of their cottage-predecessors, 
 to the banks of the river, sparkling with architectural elegance, odorous with 
 the breath of exotics, and, in every thing, indicative of a " luxury unknown to 
 ancestors" — the poet of " Hope" answers : — 
 
 " And call ye this improvement .' — to have changed 
 My native Clyde, thy once romantic shore ? 
 Where Nature's face is banished, and estranged, 
 And Heaven reflected in thy wave no more !'*.... 
 
 ** Improvement ! — smiles it in the poor man's eyes, 
 Or blooms it in the cheek of Labour ? — No I 
 To gorge a fevf with Trade's precarious prize, 
 We banish rural life, and breathe unwholesome skies." 
 
 " 'Tis therefore I complain 
 
 That thou no more through pastoral scenes shouldst glide. 
 
 My Wallace's own stream! — my once romantic C/^tie .'"^Cajipbell. 
 
 The city of Glasgow, with its suburbs — so universally known as a vast com- 
 mercial emporium — is said to cover a space of seven hundred acres of ground, 
 containing a dense and rapidly increasing population.* Its tide of prosperity 
 began with the Union of the two countries, and has continued to flow in upon 
 its spirited citizens with increasing favour down to the present time. To the 
 invention of the spinning-jenny, by Arkwright, to the improvements of the 
 steam-engine by Watt, and the boundless supply of coal with which the manu- 
 factories are furnished, Glasgow is chiefly indebted for her long and prosperous 
 trade. Cotton goods, although the staple trade of the place, are not the only 
 manufactures. Steam-engines are here constructed to a vast extent ; brass and 
 iron foundries are actively employed ; works for the construction of cotton, 
 flax, and woollen machinery; admirable type foundries, chemical works — and, 
 in short, whatever is connected with art or luxury, is here to be met with in 
 the greatest perfection. To detail the particulars of the exports and imports of 
 Glasgow, would be to furnish a catalogue of all that contributes to the convenience 
 
 • In ISol, the population amounted to nearly two hundred and three thousand. Twenty years ago, 
 Glasgow had fifty-four mills for spinning cotton, containing six hundred thousand spindles; and the num- 
 ber has been much augmented since then. In 1825, fifty-four power-loom factories, for the weaving of 
 various kinds of cotton goods, were in activity. . In 1818, the hand-looms employed were calculated at 
 thirty-two thousand. The sulnirbs contain vast mines of coal, ironstone, limestone, freestone, whinstone, 
 fire and potters' clay, and many valuable minerals ; but of ail these coal is by fir the most valuable, as 
 indispensable to the support of the manufacturers. 
 
 VOL. II. L L
 
 130 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 and the luxury of man, and to name every port in the known world where com- 
 mercial enterprise has ever penetrated.* 
 
 The streets of Glasgow are spacious, admirably well paved, the houses lofty, 
 and, in many instances, exhibiting great architectural elegance. Of this the 
 Trongate, a street upwards of a mile in length, presents numerous examples, 
 and, in the busy multitude with which it is thronged, will remind the stranger 
 of the metropolitan thoroughfares of Cheapside, or the Strand. Of the public 
 buildings, which are numerous, many present fine specimens of the different 
 orders of architecture. Our restricted limits, however, will only admit a brief 
 notice of the Cathedral and University. The Cathedral, like so many others 
 in the kingdom, traces its foundation to the pious King David, in the beginning 
 of the twelfth century, who appointed his tutor, or chaplain, Johannes Achaius, 
 to the episcopate. To the present building, however, numerous additions were 
 made in the progress of time, till the Reformation, which diverted the church 
 revenues into a new channel and left the original design unfinished. The first 
 bishopf was followed by twenty-five successors, when, in the person of Bishop 
 Blackader, the see was erected into an archbishopric. After this period, four 
 Catholic archbishops followed in succession ; and after the Reformation, ten 
 others of the Episcopalian church, when the Presbyterian religion became that 
 of the nation. The church was then divided, and now forms two distinct places 
 of worship. The interior, as seen in the engraving annexed, is of noble design 
 and elaborate workmanship, and had the good fortune to escape the popular 
 fury by which so many other shrines were mutilated or destroyed. 
 
 " Huge columns heave to a stupendous height 
 Their gothic grandeui-'s vast unwieldy weight j 
 The pile the rich unpolished genius shews 
 Of that wild daring age in which it rose." — Wilson. 
 
 The University of Glasgow associates with its history many names which 
 reflect lustre on their age and country. It had anciently several remarkable 
 peculiarities in its constitution, and conferred on its members various important 
 
 • During the year 1834, twenty -seven thousand \ess,e\s passed Renfrew ferry; an! at some periods in the 
 same year, between twenty and thirty passed in one hour. — Stat. IS37. 
 
 + A.D. 1300. Edward I. of England took upon him to appoint Anthony Beik to the see of Glasgow, 
 wiiilst Earl Percy usurped the military government of the western part of Scotland, and took possession of 
 tile episcopal palace. The renowned Wallace, who was then at Ayr, determined on ridding his country of 
 the usurpers ; and, supported by several patriotic individuals and their adherents, gave battle to Percy 
 in the High Street, nearly where the college now stands, when Wallace, with one stroke of his sword, cleft 
 Earl Percy's head, and put liis whole army to the rout. The following year King Edward offered obla- 
 tions at the shrine of St. Mungo, in the church, on learning that Drummond, a Scottish knight, had beeri 
 taken prisoner by Sir John Scagrave.
 
 CATHEDRAL.- — UNIVERSITY. — LORD RECTOR. 
 
 l.Ol 
 
 privileges. Previously to the Reformation, tlie whole University, like a rojal 
 borough, formed a general corporation, while at the same time it was divided 
 into separate faculties, which, like the different classes of tradesmen in a borough, 
 were distinct inferior corporations, enjoying peculiar immunities, property, and 
 by-laws. The whole incorporated members, whether students or teachers, 
 assembled annually in full congregation on the day after St. Crispin's day. They 
 were divided into four classes, called nations, according to the place of their 
 nativity. Under the heads of Clydesdale, Teviotdale, Albany, and Rothsay, 
 all Scotland was included ; and each nation or class elected representatives, who 
 acted as assistants to the lord rector on weighty occasions. At the dissolution of 
 the Catholic hierarchy, however, this sj'stem was overturned, and various changes 
 effected from time to time, till the constitution of the University assumed its pre- 
 sent form. It is now governed by a chancellor, a lord rector, a dean of faculties, 
 a principal, and professors. The office of chancellor is usually filled by some 
 nobleman, or other gentleman of rank, elected by the senate, who holds the 
 dignity for life. The office of rector, however, may, in one respect, be called 
 the most important in the University; because the person appointed to it is 
 chosen upon the favourite principle of the whole members of the college having 
 a voice in the election. The popular character of this officer has generally 
 imparted intense interest to it ; and when candidates of opposite politics are 
 started, which is generally the case, a keen contest takes place, in which not 
 only the professors and students, but also citizens of every class, engage with 
 all the zeal and enthusiasm peculiar to political partizanship. In evidence of this, 
 we need only state, that the rector's chair has been successively filled by such men 
 as Edmund Burke, Adam Smith, Marquess of Lansdowne, Sir James Macintosh, 
 Lord Brougham, Thomas Campbell, Lord Jeffrey, and Lord Cockburn ; thus 
 associating not only their alma mater, but the city and its inhabitants, with the 
 most distinguished characters of the age. The election of Campbell, who was 
 Brougham's successor, was carried under circumstances peculiarly flattering to 
 the illustrious poet. The name set up against his was no less than that of 
 George Canning, but the poet of Hope gained the election by a vast majority. 
 The office of lord rector, originally instituted for the protection of the rights 
 of students, had become a sinecure honour; and Mr. Campbell's predecessors 
 had, from time immemorial, contented themselves with coming down for a few 
 days to Glasgow and making a s-peec-h on their installation. Campbell set the 
 first remembered example of a lord rector attending, vv.ith scrupulous punc- 
 tualit}', to the duties which his oath implied.* 
 
 * He spent several weeks in examining the statutes, accounts, and whole management of the University.
 
 ItJg SCOTLAND ILLUSl RATED. 
 
 The induction of tlie illustrious statesman, Sir Robert Peel, to the same 
 distinguished honour, is an event too recent, and fresh in the memory of every 
 man, to require any notice in these pages. The occasion was most strongly 
 marked by all that could do honour to that accomplished scholar and senator, 
 and to the professors and students who had installed him in his high ofSce of 
 Lord Rector in the Glasgow University. 
 
 Omitting numerous objects and topics of great niterest — literary and scientific 
 institutions, museums, charitable foundations, national monuments, in all of 
 which Glasgow is peculiarly rich, but which our space will not even permit us 
 to name — we proceed to notice those particular scenes of beauty, or wonder, 
 on which the painter has laid his hand in this picturesque province ; the 
 valley where — 
 
 " Clyde, foaming- o'er his falls, tremendous roars, 
 And Mouse, through rugged rocks, his waters pours ; 
 Where Cleghorn, beauteous by a Lockhart's care, 
 Bares to the distant view her bosom fair ; 
 And Lee's recess — whence many a chief of name, 
 Heroes and sages, moved inquest of fame." — Wilson. 
 
 The river Mouse, which traverses the parish of Lanark from east to west, 
 presents in its course much wild and romantic scenery. Near Cleghorn, it 
 plunges into a deep ravine, scooped out apparently during the long lapse of ages 
 by the impetuous rush of its vraters. Lower down, and nearer its junction with 
 the Clyde, it makes a sudden bend, and pouring its waters into a deep chasm 
 in the hill of Cartlane, which forms its channel for about a mile, presents 
 throughout a succession of views peculiarly wild and imposing. Wherever the 
 cliffs press forward like jutting battlements on the one side, there is a correspond- 
 ing recession on the other ; so that the ravine appears to have been formed by 
 some sudden and awful disrupture, and if closed seems as if each projection and 
 depression would again enter into their original union. The north bank, piled 
 
 During the first and second year of his rectorship, however, royal commissioners were employed in a 
 similar inspection, and with their proceedings he found it beyond his power to interfere. But so much 
 satisfaction liad been diffused among the students by bis known good intentions, that they resolved to 
 confer upon him the honour, unprecedented for a centuiy, of electing him for a third year. To this 
 proceeding the professors objected, and, setting up Sir Walti;k Scott as a candidate, gained over a large 
 body of tlie students; and, in fact, the nomination of Sir Walter was carried, by what the Campbellites 
 considered an unfair election. A deputation of thein, therefore, went off to Edinburgh, and waiting on 
 Sir Walter Scott, expressed themselves to that effect. This illustrious individual accordingly seat word to 
 the professors that he declined the proffered honour. Campbell immediately left London for Glasgow, 
 insisted on a new election, and carried it triumphantly. Such was the joy of the students on the occasion, 
 that they founded the '■' Camiibell Club" in honour of the poet, which still continues. — AfS.
 
 CARTLAN CRAIGS. — BONNINGTON. 133 
 
 like a Cyclopean rampart of vast rocks, and covered with a verdant netting of 
 trees and underwood, rises to a height of four hundred feet, at the base of which 
 the struggling torrent rushes on in foaming precipitation to the Clyde. 
 
 To see the Cartlan Craigs under the most picturesque colouring, the tourist 
 must thread his way along the rocks, and vary his station so as to take in every 
 combination of objects in succession. At every turn of the river, a new and 
 varying scene of rocky grandeur, heightened by the accompaniments of the 
 stream, and a rich and brilUant foliage, bursts on the view. What gives pecuUar 
 interest to this romantic soKtude is, that, in a natural cave of the ravine, the 
 renowned Wallace once found refuge from his pursuers, and at length emerged 
 to hoist the standard of liberty.* The recesses of the craigs present a rich variety 
 of plants to the botanist, and above the falls several rare species of mosses. 
 
 The new bridge, which, like a lofty aqueduct, spans the chasm, is an elegant 
 specimen of modern architecture. The height of this noble structure is one 
 hundred and thirty-six feet above the water. The view wliich it commands is 
 among the finest in the country, including, with the more remote, the innnediate 
 features of — 
 
 " Cartlan craigs, that liigh 
 O'er their pent river strike the eye, 
 Wall above wall, half veilej, naif seen. 
 The pendent folds of wood between, 
 With jagged breach, and rilt, and scaur, 
 Like the scorched wreck of ancient war, 
 And seem, to musing Fancy's gaze, 
 The ruined holds of other days." — Joanna Baillie. 
 
 In following the banks of the Clyde, we shall not deem it necessary to describe 
 each of the " haunted localities," as they occur to the tourist ; but, proceeding 
 at once to the Falls, as the great attraction, touch on the other objects illustrated 
 as we again descend tc Hamilton and Bothweli. In tliis notice of the scenery, 
 where mere prose would fall far short of the subject, we have gladly availed 
 
 • " If through the greenwood's hanging screen, high o'er the deeply-bedded wave, 
 The mouth of arching cleft is seen yawning dark, 'tis ' Wallace' Cave !' 
 If o'er its jutting barrier gray, tinted by time, with furious din, 
 The rude crags, silvered with its spray, shoots the wild flood — 'tis ' Wallace* Linn !' " 
 
 The habit of identifying every thing most remarkable in its natural or artificial properties with the name 
 of Wallace, is well known, and thus alluded to by Joanna Baillie, who adds: — " I cannot help mentioning 
 the pleasure 1 lately received in being shown by two simple country children on the Blantyre Crags, oppo- 
 site Bothweli Castle, the mark of ' Wallace's footstep' in the rocky brink of a liiiie well."— /*oibj »} 
 " William Wallace." MtTiiiCAL Legends. 
 
 VOL. II. M M
 
 134 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 ourselves of those descriptions with which the Clydesdale muse has already 
 celebrated its numberless beauties 
 
 The Clyde, of ample volume, and alternately smooth and troubled in its 
 channel, after receiving the tribute of Douglas water* and dividing into two 
 streams, dashes down a precipitous ledge of rocks, and forms the " Bonnington 
 Fall." For the space of half a mile from this point, its bed is enclosed on 
 either side by a range of perpendicular and equidistant rocks, rising to the height 
 of a hundred feet, and presenting a stupendous wall of natural masonry. From 
 the crevices of these lofty ramparts, which enclose the channel of the river, choughs 
 and crows are continually springing, and, wheeling in airy circles round the Fall, 
 contribute to heighten the wild and romantic efl'ect : — 
 
 " Where, roaring o'er its rocky walls, 
 
 The water's lieadlong torren falls, 
 ull, rapid, powerful, flashing to the light ; 
 
 Till sunk the boiling gulf beneath, 
 
 It mounts again like snowy wreath. 
 
 Which, scattered by contending blasts, 
 
 Back to the clouds their treasure casts, 
 A ceaseless wild turmoil — a grand and wondrous sight!" — Joanna Baillie. 
 
 The grounds of Bonnington, as well as those of Lee and Cleghorn, are 
 luxuriously wooded, and much of the timber is of very remote planting. Close 
 to the house of Lee, two trees are especially deserving of notice. The first of 
 these is an oak of prodigious dimensions, measuring sixty feet in height, thirty 
 feet in circumference, and containing fourteen hundred and sixty cubic feet of 
 timber. It is called the Pease tree, and understood to be a relic of the ancient 
 Caledonian forest ; but, although it still vegetates, its huge trunk is hollowed 
 to such a degree, that ten persons have been insinuated into the excavation. 
 The other vegetable wonder is a magnificent larch — like those mentioned in 
 our account of Dunkeld — said to have been one of the first introduced into 
 Scotland. It measures one hundred feet in height, and eighteen in girth. f 
 
 Cora Lynn, about half a mile from Bonnington, is considered the finest of 
 these magnificent Falls. It is only, however, within these few years that this 
 grand and imposing scene could be enjoyed from the bottom of the Fall. 
 Formerly, the spectator could only contemplate the tortured waters from above, 
 and thus, much of the effect was lost. This inconvenience, however, has been 
 most happily remedied by the taste and liberality of the proprietor, who has caused 
 
 • Douglas Castle, the " Castle Dangerous" of Sir Walter Scott 
 
 f " Surely," says a critic on Dr. Samuel Johnson, " trees like these, of which there is no scarcity in 
 those parts, might have gibbeted the most bulky of all tourists." In explanation of this the reader is 
 referred to the " Journey."
 
 CORA LYNN. — STONEBYRES LYNN. 135 
 
 a flight of steps to be cut along the face of the opposite rock, by wliich the visitor 
 descends into a deep and capacious amphitheatre, where he finds himself exactly 
 in front, and on a level with the bottom of the Fall. Here the imagination is 
 bewildered by the grandeur and subhmity of the scene. The vast body of water 
 churned into foam, and projected in a double bound over the precipice ; the dark 
 and weltering pool below ; the magnificent rampart of grim perpendicular rocks 
 which project and undulate round him on the left ; the romantic banks opposite ; 
 the rich garniture of wood with which it is mantled ; and the river, after a stormy 
 passage, again pursuing its placid course in the distance — sparkling, as if purified 
 by its recent struggles — present altogether a spectacle which may challenge com- 
 parison with the finest scenes of the kind in Switzerland. But such scenes 
 are the poet's peculiar province. — The awful phenomena exhibited by this 
 Fall, when augmented by sudden storms, are thus ably depicted by a native 
 bard : — 
 
 " But when the deluge pours from every hill — 
 When Clyde's broad bed ten thousand torrents fill, 
 His roar the thundering mountain-streams augment — 
 Redoubled rage in rocks so closely pent. 
 Then shattered woods, with rugged roots uptorn, 
 And herds and harvests, down the wave are borne ; 
 Huge crags heaved upward through the boiling deep, 
 And rocks enormous thundering down the steep. 
 In swift descent, fixed rocks encountering roar, 
 Crash, as from slings discharged, and shake the shore. . . . 
 
 " From that drear grot which bears thy sacred name — 
 Heroic Wallace ! first in Scotia's fame, 
 I saw the liquid snowy mountains rolled 
 Prone down the awful steep ; I heard the din 
 That shook the hill, fiom caves that boiled within. 
 Then wept the rocks, and trees, with dripping hair. 
 Thick mists ascending loaded all the air, 
 Blotted the sun, obscured the shining day. 
 And washed at once the blazing noon away. 
 The wreck below, in wild confusion tost. 
 Convulsed in eddies, or in whirlpools lost, 
 Is swept along where Lanark's ancient claim 
 To eldest rank has given a province name."* — Clyde. 
 
 The lower, or Stonebyres Fall, resembles in so many respects the others of 
 
 • Much of the description in the preceding lines will remind the French reader of the well-known ode 
 by Laharpe, in his " Epitre au Comte de Schowalow :" — 
 
 " Au loin, le Druit de son passage 
 
 Fait trembler les rochers, fait mugir les vallons," &c. &c.
 
 136 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRAtfiD. 
 
 the series, that it would here be superfluous to indulge in any minute desctiji- 
 tion ; for, in this case, description would be little more than a repetition of the 
 same ideas and features. The distinctive character of this cascade is its trijple 
 stage, thereby forming three distinct leaps ; and on that account it is considered by 
 many as an object of even greater beauty and attraction than the others. This 
 cascade takes its name from Stonebyres, an estate of the ancient family of 
 De Vere, celebrated in the history and poetry of the country. 
 
 " From Oxford's lofty race their lineage springs ; 
 
 Famed Oxford, sprung from emperors and kings. 
 
 How bright the Veri Antonini shone 
 
 When Virtue's self possessed the imperial throne !. . . . 
 
 But when the fierce praetorian cohorts sold 
 
 The earth's broad empire for alluring gold, 
 
 The generous Veri left imperial Rome. . . ." 
 " On either side they stretch their wide domain 
 
 Where turbid Nethan rends the indented plain." — Wilson. 
 
 Lanark, with its numerous claims to ancient renown, is remarkable as the 
 scene of Wallace's first military exploit, in which he slew the Enghsh sheriff 
 Heselrig, and expelled his soldiers from the town. This patriot — the Scottish 
 " Tell" — appears to have resided in the town of Lanark, even then a garrisoned 
 place, after his marriage with the beautiful coheiress of Lamington, barbarously 
 slain by Heselrig, and since become the subject of many a pathetic and popular 
 ballad. For still— 
 
 " There is a melancholy pleasure 
 In tales of hapless love; a treasure 
 From which the saddened bosom borrows 
 A short respite from present sorrows ; 
 And even the gay delight to feel, 
 As down young cheeks the soft tears steal." * 
 
 Bothwell Castle, a specimen of baronial magnificence scarcely equalled by any 
 existing ruins, is situated on the northern bank of the Clyde, and by its stately 
 grandeur and majestic turrets, rouses the admiration of every stranger. It is diffi- 
 cult to imagine a finer situation, or battlements and towers in finer harmony 
 with the scene. One might suppose that the celebrated French poet had these 
 scenes in view when he composed the following lines : — ■ 
 
 '* Tant6t d'un vieux chateau s'offre la masse ^norree 
 Pompeusement bizarre, et noblement inform^. 
 
 • Sir William Wallace, " Metrical Legends," by Joanna Baillie, pp.93, 94.; in which, and the 
 well-known romance of the " Scottish Chiefs," the reader will find the particulars beautifully and affect- 
 Ingly depicted. .
 
 BOTHWELL CASTLE. — BLANTYRE PRIORY. 137 
 
 Combien de souvenirs ici sont retraces! 
 
 J'ainie a voir ces glacis, ces angles, ces fosses, 
 
 Oes vestiges epars des sieges, des bataillcs, 
 
 Ces boulets qu'arreta I'epaisseur des miirailles. 
 
 J'aime a me rappeler ces fameux difterentls 
 
 Des peuples et des rois, des vassaux et des grands." . . . 
 
 *' Ces spectres, ces lutins rodant dans les tenebres ; 
 Vieux recits, dent le charme, amusant les bameaux, 
 Abr^ge la veillee, et suspend les fuscaux. . . . 
 
 " Ici, du haut des tours, plus d'une tendre amante 
 Suivait son jeune amant dans la lice sanglante; 
 Li, nos gais troubadours, et nos vieux romanciers, 
 CeMbraitnt la tendresse et les exploits guerriers ; 
 La, nos fiers paladins, A la gloire fiddles, 
 
 Combattaient pour leur Dieu, leur monarque etleurs belles. — 
 Je crois les voir encore, et reve tour a tour, 
 De joutes, de tournois, de feerie et d'amour.' 
 
 These buildings — comprising at once a palace and a fortress — covered, in 
 ancient times, a wide extent of ground ; and what still remains of their past glory 
 measures two hundred and thirty-four feet in length, by ninety-nine in breadth. 
 The walls are remarkable for their massive solidity, fifteen feet thick, and, 
 where the severed fragments scattered round their base attest the force of the 
 sudden bolt, the besieger's mine, or the levelling effects of time, the single masses 
 cohere as if composed of one block, thereby evincing the extraordinary quality 
 of the mortar in which they were originally imbedded. 
 
 The court is wide and capacious ; and in the east and west ends of the 
 building apartments, as well as the mutilated walls and narrow windows of the 
 family chapel, are still to be seen. In one of the towers, two of which are 
 nearly entire, is an old draw-well, bored to a considerable depth in the solid 
 rock. By a flight of steps the traveller may still ascend to the battlements 
 of one of the highest towers, wliich overlooks the river at an immense 
 depth below, and commands a beautiful prospect.* 
 
 The first possessor of the barony of Bothwell was a Walter Olifard, from whom 
 it descended by an heiress to the Morays of Bothwell, and again in the same 
 manner, in 1370, came into possession of the Douglases.f During his military 
 occupation of the country, Edward I. resided for some time in this castle ; and on 
 
 • A sbort distance from Bothwell, " Tinto Tap," the hill celebrated in one of Burns' popular lyrics, forms 
 a prominent feature in the landscape, while Benlomond rises in colossal majesty in the back ground. 
 
 t Craignethan Castle, the property of Lord Douglas, but formerly a stronghold of the Plaroilton family, 
 is generally understood as the Tillieludkm so well pictured in the " Tales ot niy Landlord." In this 
 fortress the unfortunate Queen Mary found a temporary asylum from her persecutors, after her escape frooi 
 Lochleven Castle. 
 
 VOL. II. N N
 
 138 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 two occasions it was besieged by the Scots. It passed from the earls of Douglas 
 at the memorable epoch of their forfeiture in 1455 — an event to which we have 
 adverted more particularly in another part of this work. It came afterwards 
 to the earl of Bothwell, and then to the earl of Forfar, who, as already noticed, 
 fell at the battle of SherifFmuir. It then reverted to the duke of Douglas, 
 with whose noble representative it now remains. The modern castle, which 
 commands an admirable and impressive view of these majestic ruins, is an 
 elegant and extensive pile, and embosomed in a demesne of unrivalled beauty. 
 The gateway leading to the castle is a structure of great classic taste and 
 elaborate finish, and exhibits in high relief the sculptured arms of the ancient 
 family of Douglas. 
 
 In his visit to these localities, Blantyre Priory presents a scene which cannot 
 fall to make a lasting impression on the stranger's mind. It is built on the 
 brink of a perpendicular rock overhanging the river, opposite Bothwell Castle, 
 and dates the period of its foundation to the thirteenth century. The grounds 
 enclosing the ancient castle are tastefully laid out, and embellished with lofty 
 woods, the growth of ages, beneath the umbrageous canopy of which the 
 walks branch off in all directions. Here the moralist will probably " pause 
 when he reverts to the various incidents of history with which these noble ruins 
 are connected ; he will naturally figure to himself the pomp and grandeur which 
 pervaded them in the days of their glory, and contrast the picture with the 
 mournful silence of their now deserted halls, and mouldering turrets." All 
 these localities, independently of associations, present scenes of the most 
 exquisite natural beauty. 
 
 Bothwell Bridge — so famous in history and in fiction — is well entitled to the 
 stranger's notice. Here was fought, in 1699, the battle between the covenanters 
 and the royal troops, under the duke of Monmouth. The latter were posted 
 on the north side of the river, partly on the hill and partly in the valley, 
 supported by a few field-pieces, which cannonaded the high ground on the south 
 side of the Clyde. Here stood the covenanters, who had posted a few marks- 
 men on the left side of the bridge, among some brushwood, with the intention of 
 annoying a party of the enemy's horse on the opposite bank of the river. There 
 was at that time a strong gate in the middle of the bridge, where the most 
 resolute of the covenanters took their stand, and for a considerable time resisted 
 every effort made by the king's troops to dislodge them. At last, however, 
 they were driven back, and the earl of Linlithgow charging across the bridge 
 with the dragoons, completed their discomfiture. 
 
 Cadzow Park, the castle of which is now reduced to a mass of ruins, occupies
 
 CADZOW PARK. — AVON BRIUGE. — HAMILTON PALACE. 139 
 
 a considerable space on tlie" banks of the Avon, opposite Chatelherault,* the 
 summer residence of the duke of Hamilton, surrounded by deer parks. During 
 the convulsions which marked the reign of the unhappy Queen Mary, Cadzow 
 Castle was plundered, and partly dilapidated, by the followers of the Regent 
 Murraj!-, when flushed with their recent success at the battle of Langside.f 
 It was to this fortress that Bothwellhaugh escaped into the arms of his party 
 after his assassination of the Regent Murray at Linlithgow, as already described. 
 
 The park is remarkable for containing some of the oldest and most stately 
 oak trees in the kingdom, many of which measure thirty feet in circumference, 
 and are considered as the last " representatives'' of the ancient Caledonian 
 forest; J but, like the castle round which for centuries they have drawn a 
 luxuriant curtain, they are now fast hastening to mingle with the soil out of 
 which they sprang. Here is preserved a herd of the ancient breed of Scotch 
 bisons — white as the oxen of Clitumnus — and retaining, in spite of the corrupt- 
 ing effects of luxurious pasture, traces of their original fierceness and love 
 of freedom. 
 
 In 1824, a new bridge was erected over the Avon, a few hundred yards below 
 the old one, which is a very ancient structure, and on that account, as well as 
 for the accommodation of the workmen employed at the neighbouring coal-pits, 
 is still kept entire. 
 
 In the valley between the town of Hamilton and the Clyde, stands the ducal 
 palace, one of the most magnificent and classical structures in the kingdom. It 
 is in the purest style of the Corinthian order, and in all respects does honour to 
 
 • Built in imitation of tlie French chateau of that name, the property of the duke's ancestors, and giving 
 title to the family. " Cadzow" is the subject of a fine poem by Sir Walter Scott, to which the reader 
 is referred. 
 
 t This is a field of paramount interest to all who sympathize in the fate of her to whom the Scottish 
 sceptre was one of many sorrows. It lies about a mile to the south of Glasgow, and is much visited as 
 the scene of Mary's last ineSectual effort to regain the throne of her ancestors. A hawthorn-tree, well 
 known by the appellation of '* Queen Mary's thorn," once marked the fatal spot where all her hopes were 
 blasted. Another has since been planted as a substitute for the original tree, which had decayed from 
 age, and, retaining the same endearing name, is cherished with a fond and almost superstitious regarJ. 
 The closing scene of this battle has been made the subject of an admirable painting, now exhibiting in the 
 National Gallery (1837). The mention of Langside will suggest that of Cruikstone Castle, hard by, and 
 also identified with Mary, but under very different circumstances. It was to the latter that she was borne 
 in triumph as the bride of Darnley ; and here, under a spreading yew tree, according to tradition, the happy 
 pair were often seated during the brief sunshine that followed their nuptials. This yew was removed about 
 the close of last century ; but is represented on the reverse of the medal known as the Cruikstone dollar, 
 struck to commemorate that fatal union. 
 
 J " In this wood of Caledon,'* says Bellinden, in his translation of Bdece, " wes sum tym quhit bulls 
 with crisp andcurland maine, like feirs lionis," &c. See the originak
 
 140 SCOTLAND ILLUSTKATEU. 
 
 the national architecture. The splendid projecting portico, forming its prin- 
 cipal front, consists of a double row of six fluted Corinthian columns, with 
 exquisitely formed capitals and corresponding pilasters ; while the whole is 
 surmounted by a noble pediment, in the centre of which the arms of the family 
 are superbly emblazoned. The wings are also adorned with Corinthian pilasters; 
 and a deep and extremely rich cornice runs along the whole edifice. The stone 
 of which it is built is of the finest quality, and selected with the greatest care. 
 The columns of the grand portico are each of one block, and when taken from 
 the quarry weighed twenty-six tons. As a whole, the ducal palace of Hamilton 
 is considered the most magnificent residence in Scotland, and, in its internal 
 arrangements, corresponds in all respects with the grandeur and beauty of its 
 exterior. The picture gallery is peculiarly rich in paintings, by the great 
 Italian masters. 
 
 Most of our readers have heard of the philanthropic Robert Owen, whose 
 name is so favourably identified with the village of New Lanark, in this neigh- 
 bourhood. It was here that he began and successfully prosecuted his new 
 system of education — a system which, however visionary in some respects, has 
 certainly done much to instil moral and industrious habits into the youth of this 
 manufacturing establishment. The children are put to school at two years of 
 age, and receive an education from teachers who maintain their authority by 
 gentleness and the force of reason. After they have grown up and become fit 
 for labour, their more toilsome duties are relieved by a course of mental instruc- 
 tion, calculated to produce habits of industry and rectitude. In proof of the 
 success with which this system has been crowned, it has become the subject of 
 general remark, that the members of the little community live in practical 
 illustration of the excellent precepts which they have thus imbibed. The 
 population of the place is estimated at nearly three thousand. 
 
 As our observations must be necessarily confined to the subjects chosen for 
 illustration, we must here omit numerous localities to which history and tradition 
 have given many powerful attractions. To have described this county with the 
 minuteness to which even its scenery entitles it, would have far exceeded the 
 limits to which this work is restricted, and in which our chief object is to present 
 specimens of its local history and landscape — detached features of that great 
 moral and physical picture which it presents as a whole, but which it would 
 require an ample volume to embody. Our indulgent readers will therefore accept 
 this cogent reason for any omissions observed in the literary or pictorial depart- 
 ments. Among the more distinguished individuals to whom this county has 
 given birth — and some of whom are still adorning the walks of Uterature and
 
 ■ CASTLE CAMPBELL. 141 
 
 science — we need only enumerate those of Joanna BailHe, Thomas Campbell, 
 Ramsay, Graham, and Findlay ; William and John Hunter, Dr. Moore, and his 
 son, the gallant Sir John Moore, who fell at Corunna, Professor Young, and the 
 patriotic Lord Archibald Campbell. 
 
 FIFE, ABERDEEN, AND MORAY. 
 
 WITH SCENES FROM PERTH, INVERNESS AND ROSS. 
 
 Before passing the boundaries of the first of these, the " Kingdom of Fife," 
 we shall here, in addition to those already presented, introduce two illustrations 
 of Perthshire, which arrived too late to be included under that particular head. 
 The first of these, Castle Campbell, near the now classic village of Dollar,* 
 has long enjoyed the reputation of being one of the most picturesque and 
 romantic ruins in the kingdom. The advantages of situation have been greatly 
 enhanced by the associations of history ; and in a survey of this noble relic of 
 a chivalrous age, the eye is fascinated with the natural scenery, while the mind 
 is furnished with ample materials for meditation. 
 
 .... " C'est un vieux fort, qui, du haut des collines, 
 Tyran de la contree, effroi de ses vassaux, 
 Portait jusqu'au ciel I'orgueil de ses creneaux : 
 Qui, dans ces temps affreux de discorde et d'alarmes, 
 Vit les grands coups de lance et les nobles faits d'armes 
 De nos preux chevaliers." . . . 
 
 Castle Campbell never recovered from the ravage of the civil war, when the 
 troops under Montrose laid waste the country, and wreaked their vengeance in 
 a more particular manner on this baronial fastness — the lowland residence of 
 the rival chief Campbell, marquess of Argyll, from whom the castle derives its 
 modern name. Before the invention of gunpowder, it must have been a place 
 nearly impregnable ; being surrounded on three sides by a profound natural 
 fosse, down the shaggy sides of which numerous torrents are precipitated into 
 
 • Tennant, the author of " Anster Fair," the " Thane of Fife," and other well-known works — all 
 admirable in their kind — is Master of the Dollar Academy, and a man whose acquaintance is eagerly 
 courted. 
 
 VOL. II. O O
 
 142 SCOTLAND ILLUSTEATED. 
 
 the ravine, and there formed into a copious stream, which pursues its boisterous 
 course into the Devon. This ravine, which nearly encircles the castle, is richly 
 hung with variegated woods, and oifers a solitude, sweetened with the " song 
 of many birds," refreshed vnth gushing fountains, and fragrant with wild flowers, 
 which breathe an air of soothing tranquillity, where the lover of Nature delights 
 to meditate as in the very " elysium" of chastened contemplation. A steep and 
 difficult ascent, now open — but which in former times must have formed the 
 secret communication between the castle and the stream — leads to a little chapel, 
 the dilapidated " oratory " of the place. From this, which occupies the centre 
 of an amphitheatre of green hills — projections from the pastoral Ochils, and 
 commanding a rich landscape to the south — the view is peculiarly fine. The 
 castle is much frequented, and has long enjoyed the distinction of being consi- 
 dered one of the beauties of Scotland. 
 
 The next scene to which we alluded, is the Cauldron Linn, the celebrated 
 fall on the river Devon, which here separates the counties of Perth and Kinross. 
 The valley of the Devon is of great beauty, richly variegated in scenery ; and, 
 along with its picturesque attractions, presents a highly cultivated and fertile 
 tract of country. The Linn and the Rumbling Bridge, however, are the points 
 to which the traveller's attention is expressly directed, as features peculiar to the 
 Devon, and unique in their kind. The bridge, which spans the river, has now 
 become the medium of public intercourse, and is partially concealed by the new 
 bridge, built at a considerable height over it ; but nothing can diminish the horror 
 inspired by a close inspection of that Tartarean chasm, over which the original arch 
 is flung. Although, in point of elevation, it is far inferior to many of those Alpine 
 bridges to which we have adverted in a former work — to those, for instance, in the 
 pass of the Via-Mala in Switzerland — still the impression here produced, from 
 the circumstance of no indications of such a scene being visible in the nature 
 of the country through which it is approached, and the surprise with which the 
 traveller surveys the spot, are much greater than could otherwise be imagined. 
 Taking his stand on the centre of the arch, and looking down into the yawn- 
 ing chasm, a thin cataract of foam is all that indicates the copious river, which 
 here, confined to a deep and extremely diminished channel, is churned into 
 spray by the rugged rocks, and fills the ear with its hollow roar. The flashing 
 of the foam, contrasted with the dark rocks through which it ploughs its way, 
 seenis to illume at intervals that dismal labyrinth from which it sends forth, 
 night and day, the " cry of its agony." The intertwining branches of oak 
 which meet over the ravine, and mask, in some measure, its form, give an air 
 of deeper gloom to the scene ; while the rocks which line the gorge, and the
 
 RUMBLING BRIDGE. — CAULDRON LINN. 143 
 
 trees they support, are seen to vibrate with tlie shock of the waters by which 
 they are undermined. An old gnarled oak, which projects with fearful incli- 
 nation over the torrent, was often employed in the author's day as a test of 
 courage ; the aspirant to that distinction climbing the trunk, and proceeding, as he 
 best might, to a limb which suspended him directly over the chasm. If he could 
 here find himself sufficiently at ease to cut his initials on the bark, as a memorial 
 of the feat, he was reported as a youth of some just pretensions to courage. 
 It was, at all events, a feat quite as perilous as that of climbing an aiguille in 
 the Alps, and with death in as hideous a form beneath him. To this tree, 
 says tradition, a poor suicide retired many years ago to commit the last act of 
 despair, and was found suspended over the gulf, where no human hand could 
 recover the body. 
 
 About a mile lower down the river is the Cauldron Linn, of which the annexed 
 engraving will furnish a vi\dd picture. In this, however, only a part of the 
 phenomena of the Linn could be represented. The characteristic features of 
 this waterfall are the series of caldrons into which the whole volume of the 
 river is precipitated, churned into foam, and finally discharged over the rocks. 
 These caldrons vary in dimensions, and are continually changing in shape by 
 the boiling impetuosity with which their contents are swallowed up, and again 
 vomited forth in masses of foam. To the spectator the appearance is exactly 
 like that of a caldron in a state of violent ebullition, but with a fierce gyratory 
 motion, like that of some rabid monster plunged suddenly into a pit, and 
 liowling and raging for an outlet. This peculiar motion, &s we have often 
 experienced, is apt to produce vertigo, and is therefore unsafe to the stranger 
 who contemplates it beyond a very short time.* Volumes of spray are con- 
 tinually hovering over the falls ; and, unconnected with the river, the scene 
 reminds one of those volcanic scenes, where the incumbent water is kept boiling 
 over subterraneous fires. Though gradually lowered in its channel by the 
 continued action of the water, the fall is still, and will long continue, one of 
 the most remarkable in Scotland. It is the favourite resort of summer parties, 
 who, in the course of the same day, can enjoy the scenery of Castle Campbell, 
 and these beautiful falls of the Devon. On a flat rock of large dimensions, 
 and rising like an islet in the basin under the fall, the repast is generally spread. 
 There the party, squatted like pious moslem at a feast, completely sheltered 
 from the sun, fanned by the breath of the cascade, and filling up the intervals 
 
 * With the Cauldron Linn, as with too many other scenes where Nature exhibits herself in beauty and 
 power, the death of a promising youth, wliose adventurous spirit led him beyond the bounds of prudence, 
 has associated another melancholy story
 
 144 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 with anecdote and native song, may enjoy those delightful hours which, in after 
 life, haunt the mind like a dream, and, in the midst of the brighter but more 
 studied enjoyments of the great world, conjure back the simphcity of rural life 
 on the banks of the Devon. 
 
 We now enter the county of Fife,* where the royal burgh of Dunfermline 
 recalls the splendour of past days, and furnishes subjects innumerable for 
 observation and reflection. But its claims on the patriot, the historian, and the 
 antiquary, are so full}- admitted and known, that we shall confine ourselves 
 chiefl}^ to the subject chosen for illustration. Here, when the palace of the 
 sovereign, and the rich pile of the lord abbot were thronged with pilgrims and 
 courtiers — ^vith the ensigns of religion and the pomp and circumstance of 
 royalty — when the king, in proof of his state, " sate in Dunfermline toun," 
 as the minstrel has described, " drinking the bluid-red mne" — when the 
 abbot, uniting the splendour of things spiritual and temporal, with the chanting 
 of mass and the chiming of bells, followed the royal example and conjoined the 
 more substantial cheer of the refectory — Dunfermline must, indeed, have 
 presented a scene of mixed royalty and religion which might have yielded 
 materials not unworthy of our greatest dramatist. But the scene is changed ; 
 the royal cavalcade and the religious procession have long vanished from its 
 streets ; the grass waves over the hearth of kings ; Desolation has shaken her 
 rod over the crumbling shrine ; under our feet is deposited the dust of many 
 generations — those who served at the altar, who wielded the affairs of state, or 
 lifted the battle-axe in the cause of Bruce. But, amidst all the changes of 
 times and circumstances with which this ancient town has been visited, one 
 magnificent landmark is still left, and, within its hallowed enclosure are the 
 thrice consecrated ashes of Bruce. Here the patriot will feel a warmer devotion 
 to the liberty of his country, and, at the tomb of her greatest hero and wisest 
 king, breathe a prayer for her prosperity. 
 
 The Abbey of Dunfermline was of the Benedictine order, founded by Malcolm 
 Canmore, finished by Alexander the Fierce, and invested with additional 
 sanctity as the sepulchre of the Scottish kings, among whom was the heroic 
 monarch above named. After the Reformation, this interesting fact was only 
 traditional ; for, although a splendid mausoleum had enclosed the spot, not a 
 
 • This county lies chiefly on tlie eastern coast of Scotland, forming a peninsula, with the Frith of Forth 
 on the south, and the Frith of Tay on the north. The extreme length of the county is upwards of sixty 
 miles and its breadth, from Kinghorn to Newhurgh, about thirty miles. It is fertile, highly cultivated, 
 populous, interspersed with many thriving towns and villages, and richly embellished with sixty-four 
 seats of the nobility and landed proprietors, who form a numerous and powerful aristocracy. Tlie popu- 
 lation, according to the latest report, amounts to one hundred and thirty thousand.
 
 ROBERT BRUCE. — DUNFERMLINE ABBEY. 145 
 
 vestige of it now remained, and no investigation took place to solve the doubt. 
 At length, in making preparations for the foundation of a new church in 1818, 
 the workmen, on digging under the ruins of the ancient choir, came to a sub- 
 structure of cemented stone, which was evidently the tomb of some person of 
 distinction. Curiosity was thus excited, the workmen proceeded, and on 
 opening the vault, found in it the decayed fragments of a coffin, in the midst of 
 which lay a skeleton wrapt in lead. This was unrolled, and around the head 
 was found a circlet of lead placed in form of a crown. Closer examination 
 showed that the body had been originally shrouded in cloth of gold, from the 
 shreds of that material which still remained. These circumstances excited the 
 greatest attention, particularly as the grave was immediately in front of the 
 high altar, and rendered it probable that such was the last resting-place of the 
 immortal Bruce. The truth of this was soon confirmed by the discovery of a 
 small cofl5n-plate among the rubbish, bearing these three words— Robertus. 
 ScoTORUM. Rex. Having obtained this conclusive evidence, the tomb was shut 
 up, and notice sent to the Barons of Exchequer. A day being then fixed for 
 the imposing ceremony, the tomb was re-opened in their presence, and in that of a 
 great many persons of rank, as well as of literary and scientific distinction ; when 
 the royal skeleton was examined, measured, and drawings and casts taken 
 of it. The breast bone, in corroboration of history, was found to have been 
 sawn asunder— an operation necessary for taking out the heart, which the good 
 Lord James of Douglas was to convey to the Holy Land.* It was now ascer- 
 
 • When Bruce found his end drew nigh, that great king summoned his barons and peers around him, 
 and affectionately recommended his son to their care ; then, singling out the good Lord James of Douglas, 
 fondly entreated him, as his old friend and companion in arms, to cause the heart to be taken from his body 
 after death, conjuring him to take the charge of transporting it to the Holy Land, in redemption of a vow 
 which he had made to go in person thither when he was disentangled from the cares brought on him by 
 the English wars. " Now the hour is come," he said, " I cannot avail myself of the opportunity, but 
 must send my heart thither in place of my body ; and a better knight than thou, my dear and tried friend 
 and comrade, to execute such a commission, the world holds not." All who were present wept bitterly 
 round his bed, while the king, almost with his dying words, bequeathed this melancholy task to his best 
 beloved follower and champion. On the 7th of June, 1329, died Robert Bruce, at the almost premature 
 age of fifty-five. With the precious heart under his charge the good Lord James accordingly set out for 
 Palestine, with a gallant retinue, and observing great state. He landed at Seville in his voyage, and 
 learning that King Alphonso was at war with the Moors, his zeal to encounter the infidels induced him 
 to offer'^his services, which were honourably and thankfully accepted. But having involved himself too 
 far in pursuit of the retreating enemy, Douglas was surrounded by numbers of the infidels, where there 
 were not ten of his own suite left around his person; yet he might have retreated in safety, had he not 
 charged with the intention of rescuing Sir William Sinclair, whom he saw borne down by a multitude. But 
 the good knight failed in his generous purpose, and was slain by the superior number of the Moors. . . . 
 The relics of "his train brought back the heart of the Bruce, with the body of his faithful follower, to their 
 native country. The heart of the king was deposited in Melrose Abbey, and the corpse of Douglas was 
 laid in the tomb of his ancestors, in the church of the same name.— 5iV JValicr Scotl. Bisl. Scol. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 P P
 
 14-6 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 taiiied be3-ond all doubt that this was the grave of the Bruce ; and that there 
 lay the hallowed relics, which, after the lapse of nearly five hundred years, acci- 
 dent had revealed to the veneration of his grateful and admiring posterity. 
 The discovery created a powerful sensation over the whole kingdom, and drew 
 many individuals of the highest rank to the spot. A new coffin was then made 
 and filled with melted bituminous matter, in which the precious remains 
 were carefully imbedded, and the whole again consigned in great solemnity 
 to the earth. 
 
 With these brief remarks we take leave of Dunfermline, and proceeding 
 through a succession of the richest landscapes, arrive at St. Andrews. As 
 partially seen in the annexed engraving, this city shows only the skeleton of 
 that ancient grandeur to which it once laid claim ; and, in its ruined outline, 
 harmonizes well with the stormy sea and sky here depicted. Those towers and 
 spires which once overlooked a populous city, are now the solitary chronicles of 
 its history — the dilapidated monuments of the past, pointing a moral on the tran- 
 sitory nature of man and his works. But, although decay and desertion are 
 legibly impressed on every building around — although the grass grows on the 
 street, and those noble monuments raised by a departed hierarchy are left 
 mouldering in the winds of heaven. Learning has still her seat within her walls ; 
 and that celebrated university, identified with the good city of St. Andrews for 
 so many centuries, maintains her vigour and freshness, and is yearly giving 
 new proofs, that, while matter is crumbling away — while the crosier and the 
 sceptre are continually changing hands, tiie lamp of science is kept burning — 
 the " mind" still advancing in its immortal career. 
 
 In its history, St. Andrews is certainly one of the most remarkable cities in 
 the kingdom. Its university, which, in point of date, takes precedence of every 
 other in Scotland, was founded by Bishop Wardlaw in 1411 ; and, during the 
 long period which has intervened, has been frequented by students from almost 
 every part of Christendom. The archbishop of St. Andrews, as we have already 
 noticed, was primate of Scotland, generally a person of the highest rank, and 
 possessing a powerful influence in the state. To the unhappy fate by which 
 two of these dignitaries were overtaken, we have already adverted. 
 
 The ruins of the Cathedral, founded in 1162, t'he Gray Friars' Chapel, and 
 Cardinal Beaton's Castle, are objects which fully attest the number and splen- 
 dour of consecrated edifices in this place, and awaken a sentiment of veneration 
 in the mind of every stranger. In the parish church is a monument erected 
 to the memory of Archbishop Sharp, who, as our readers know, was assassinated 
 on Magus Moor, by Balfour of Burleigh, and other enthusiasts, called
 
 (
 
 ST. ANDREWS. — FALKLAND PALACE. — STRATH-EDEN. 147 
 
 " Covenanters," private gentlemen of the county.* This atrocity has been made 
 the subject of a powerfully dramatic scene in the popular works of the day. Of 
 St. Andrews it may be said, Ubi Trqjafiiit nunc seges ; but its resident society 
 is still among the best in the kingdom. The views inland, as well as those 
 embracing a vast extent of coast and sea, are highly interesting. 
 
 Continuing our route from St. Andrews, we cast a passing glance at the ruins 
 of Falkland Palace, already mentioned in our notice of the " Gowry conspiracy," 
 where the view is inserted.f This was the ancient stronghold of the Thanes 
 of Fife, and devolved to the crown on the forfeiture of that fomily in 1425. In 
 the reigns of James VI. and his immediate predecessor, it was rebuilt and 
 enlarged ; and possessed, in its magnificent park and romantic scenery, peculiar 
 attractions for the court. With the latter nionarch it became a favourite 
 residence ; and here he was enjoying the pleasures of the chase when the 
 mysterious transaction above mentioned called him to Perth. Of the royal 
 forest, hardly a tree remains ; the fine oak timber having been cut down by order 
 of Cromwell to erect the fort at Perth. It was in a dungeon of the original 
 castle, on the ruins of which the royal palace was constructed, that Robert, 
 duke of Rothsay, brother of James I., was starved to death by direction of 
 Albany, his near relative. Of this ill-fated jjrince several interesting traditions 
 still exist, which the reader will find in Mr. R. Chambers's instructive work. 
 
 Within the last ten or fifteen years, the patriotic family of Nuthill have done 
 much to arrest the progress of dilapidation. By their care the royal mansion 
 is now guaranteed as a monument that will gratify the taste of many gene- 
 rations to come. To the Lomond hills, the palace and village of Falkland, 
 we have enjoyed several interesting excursions ; and although denuded of their 
 rich forest, the former present a beautiful undulating green range, where the 
 listless shepherd and his " bleating flock " have long superseded the huntsman and 
 the " bounding deer." Falkland gives the title of viscount to the family of Carey, 
 the first of whom was raised to that dignity by James VI., on receiving the 
 announcement of Queen Elizabeth's demise. The present representative is 
 married to the youngest daughter of his late Majesty, William IV. The vale 
 of the Eden which these heights command, is one of the richest in the kingdom, 
 and embellished with many noblemen and gentlemen's seats. Among these, 
 perhaps, none is more quietly picturesque, or presents a finer back-ground of 
 tastefully arranged plantations, than Wellfield House, the hospitable mansion 
 
 • Tlie " Murder of Archbishop Sharpe " has been made tlie subject of a fine painting, recently engraved 
 (1837), in wliich the circumstances of the horrid transaction are faitlifully depicted, 
 t See ante, " Perthshire" of the present volume.
 
 148 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 of our respected friend, George Cheape, Esq., whose patriotism and public 
 spirit have identified him with so many improvements in the valley : — 
 
 " Where Eden warbles through its valley green, 
 And the proud Lomond overlooks the scene." 
 
 We now cross the Frith of Tay, and continue our progress along the east 
 coast. We confine our observations, however, to the views here chosen by the 
 painter as most characteristic of the scenery, or as landmarks in the history 
 of the county. Glammis Castle, belonging to Forfar, we have already described, 
 while skirting the frontier in our preceding sketch of Perthshire, among the 
 views of which it is introduced. Of the county of Forfar, the town and harbour 
 of Dundee — ui which manufactures and commerce have attained unprecedented 
 success and extent — present attractions of the deepest interest to all who 
 delight to contemplate scenes of national prosperity. The town is familiar 
 in the page of history, and has held a prominent station in all the principal epochs 
 in which the nation has cultivated the arts of war or peace. 
 
 " Thy maids are the fairest — thy men are the bravest — 
 Thy merchants the noblest that venture to sea; 
 And this their indenture — * They prosper that venture,' 
 So joy to the commerce of * bonny Dundee!' " 
 
 The county of Aberdeen is bounded on two sides by the sea, and on that 
 account enjoys a climate sensibly milder than many districts lying more to the 
 south. In proof of this, it is but seldom that snow lies for any length of time 
 in the lower grounds ; and it is a common observation, founded on experience, 
 that when snow is a foot deep in Aberdeen, it is double that depth on the 
 borders of Northumberland. But if the severity of vnnter be less felt here 
 than in other parts of the country, the influence of a genial spring is also 
 less frequent, so that its equable temperature is modified by disadvantages 
 from which the colder districts are exempt. 
 
 The city of Aberdeen, the seat of two celebrated universities, is divided into 
 the old and the new towns, at an interval of about a mile. Of these, the former 
 — now reduced almost to a village — appears to have been a town of some note 
 as early as the ninth century, but gradually fell into decay after the great epoch 
 of the Reformation. The Cathedral of St. Macliar was founded at the remote 
 era of 1164, and repaired in the beginning of the fourteenth century. But a 
 new building of more elegant design was founded by bishop Kinnimond, the 
 second prelate of that family, and finished by Bishop Leighton, a name already 
 mentioned in these pages. The Reformation, however, suspended all further
 
 /
 
 ABERDEEN. — BYRON. — BRIDGE OF DON. liO 
 
 operations, and left the pile a monument of premature decay. Of King's College, 
 founded at the close of the fifteenth century, the learned Hector Boethius was 
 the first principal. 
 
 New Aberdeen, though irregularly built, is a handsome city, and beautifully 
 situated on three gentle eminences at the mouth of the Dee. The streets are 
 spacious, and many of the public buildings of elegant design. In ancient times, 
 several religious establishments flourished here, belonging to the different orders 
 of Dominicans, Carmelites, and Gray Friars, with an hospital, or maison-Dieu. 
 Marischal College, so named from its liberal founder, George, Earl Marischal 
 of Scotland, has, like its predecessor, been long celebrated as a seat of the 
 muses. Its professors and lecturers — twenty-seven in number — have shone 
 conspicuous in every department of human learning, and are continually sending 
 forth in their pupils the living proofs of that zeal and assiduity with which 
 their important functions are discharged. With the fame of this university, 
 the names of Campbell and Beattie are more especially associated, as the cham- 
 pions of religion, and the ornaments of our native literature. 
 
 The environs of this ancient city exhibit many pleasing indications of com- 
 mercial improvements, which are daily acquiring fresh impulse, adding new 
 embellishments to the landscape, and evincing an increase of comfort and 
 independence among the inhabitants, who amount to nearly fifty thousand. 
 
 About a mile from the old city is the bridge over the Don, well known to 
 every reader of Byron as " Balgounie Brig's black wa'."* It consists of one 
 spacious gothic arch, spanning the river from bank to bank, and built in the 
 reign of Bruce. Although a fine object in itself, it is now chiefly visited by 
 strangers on account of its poetical association with the illustrious poet. It 
 was in the year 1790, when Byron was two years old, that his mother took up 
 her residence in Aberdeen. In the fourth and fifth summers after this event, 
 he was taken for the benefit of his health to Ballater, a farm house, about 
 forty miles up the Dee. Aberdeen, however, may be considered his place of 
 
 • " And ' Auld lang syne' brings Scotland one and all — 
 
 Scotch plaids, Scotch snoods, the blue hills and clear streams, 
 The Dee, the Don, Balgounie's Brig's black wall," &c. 
 
 Don Juan, cant. x. st. 18. 
 " I still remember," says Byron, in a note on this stanza—" though, perhaps. I may misquote— the 
 awful proverb which made roe pause to cross it, and yet lean over it with a childish delight, being an only 
 son, at least by the mother's side." This proverb, or rather prophecy (slightly misquoted by the noble 
 bard) is — 
 
 " Brig of Balgony, wight's (strong) thy wa'! 
 Wi' a wife's ae son on a mare's ae foal 
 Down sal ye fa' !"' 
 
 VOL. II. Q Q
 
 150 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 residence till the summer of 1798, when he came to his title, and left Scotland 
 with his mother to take possession of Newstead Abbey. Through after life, 
 he cherished an affectionate recollection of the scenes with which he had become 
 familiar at this early period, and boasted that he was half a Scot by birth, and 
 bred a whole one. " To meet with an Aberdonian," says Moore, " was at 
 all times a delight to Byron ; and when the late Mr. Scott, who was a native of 
 Aberdeen, paid him a visit at Venice in 1819, and was talking of the haunts 
 of his childhood, one of the places he particularly mentioned was Wallace'-nook, 
 a spot where there is a rude statue of the Scottish chief still standing. . . .In his 
 early voyage into Greece, not only the shapes of the movmtains, but the kilt 
 and hardy forms of the Albanians — ' all,' as he says, ' carried him back to 
 Morven ;' and, in his last expedition, the dress which he chiefly wore at 
 Cephalonia, was a tartan jacket."* It is no wonder, therefore, that the people 
 of Aberdeen cherish a warm affection for the memory and name of Byron. 
 
 Braemar, one of the three divisions forming the district of Mar, is generally 
 rugged and mountainous, but here and there presents many pleasing exceptions, 
 with much picturesque and romantic landscape : it is, nevertheless, a land of 
 " heath," the natural carpet of freedom. The Castle of Braemar, on the Perth 
 side of the river, is a lofty structurci in the shape of two buildings united at right 
 angles, and surrounded by a wall enclosing a square, with angles protruding 
 from the centre of each side. In a field below this castle, the earl of Mar 
 unfurled the Stewart banner in 1715; an event which involved his own family, 
 and those of many others, in irretrievable ruin. This was long the strong- 
 hold of the Mar family ; but, after their attainder, was purchased by Farquharson, 
 of Invercauld, the chief of his clan, and let on lease to government as a military 
 station for keeping the Jacobite clans in check. It is now used as a barrack for 
 a company of military, stationed here to aid the excisemen in the discharge of 
 their duties, in these " dew-distilling" mountains. 
 
 About a mile below the Castle, on the opposite side of the Dee, is the mansion 
 house of Invercauld, surrounded by much of the fine river, mountain, and forest 
 scenery, for which this district is celebrated. New plantations have been laid 
 out with great taste, covering a vast extent of country, and contributing greatly 
 , to the picturesque effect of the landscape ; while the patriotic exertions of the 
 Chief aire faithfully directed to the moral improvement of his numerous tenantry 
 and dependants. The scene is literally such as poets have described it. 
 
 * It was in (his jaclcet of tlie clan that he appears in the striliing profile taken by the Comte d'Orsay, 
 and prefixed to *' Byron*s Conversations witli the Countess of Blessington." a work in whicli the character 
 of the noble bard is portrayed with great delicacy and effect.
 
 "/
 
 BRyEMAR. — INVERCAULD. — PASS OF CAIRNGORM, 151 
 
 " Here first beneath the hawthorn bush. 
 
 The spring-flower scents the gale : 
 Here first the song of vernal thrush 
 
 Awakes the smiling vale. 
 Here, oft by wild and wimpling stream, 
 
 From alpine summits bald, 
 The bard has sung his Doric theme — 
 
 ' The Bowers of Invercauld.'" &c. 
 
 In the district of Braemar is a mountain, called the " Lesser Cairngorm," 
 which it is important the tourist should know how to distinguish from the real 
 Cairngorm ;* for, although the latter is accessible on this side, the enterprise is 
 one that will occupy many hours, and require an effort of no mean consideration 
 even to the robust pedestrian. This mountain we briefly mentioned in our 
 sketch of Inverness-shire, to which it belongs, and shall here confine our obser- 
 vations to the scene so ably represented in the engraving. 
 
 The Highland deer-stalker, like the chamois hunter of the Alps, requires no 
 small share of fortitude in the pursuit of his game ; and to be successful, he must, 
 like the former, have a constitution tempered by long and frequent exposure 
 to the keen blasts of the desert. The stately red deer, like the chamois, keeps 
 far aloof from the haunts of men. As in the plate before us, the adventurous 
 native must track the noble herd through the snow, and from his ambush pick 
 out the stragglers. Accidents have often occurred during severe winters in the 
 exercise of this dangerous calling ; and not a pass in the Grampians but has 
 its catalogue of hair-breadth 'scapes, or sudden catastrophes. On New Year's 
 Day, in the year 1799, a party of huntsmen in the forest of Gaich, headed by 
 a gentleman of the name of M'Pherson, proceeded the previous night to a hut 
 on the hill, that they might be out early in the morning in quest of the deer. 
 During the night, a tremendous storm of thunder and lightning came on, and 
 before morning the hut was entirely destroyed; the walls were scattered in 
 fragments, and every individual perished, leaving an impenetrable mystery as to 
 the real circumstances of the case. By some, the catastrophe was attributed to the 
 fall of an avalanche from the adjoining height, where the snow, having accumulated 
 to a great depth, had suddenly slipt its perch, and overwhelmed the hut and 
 its inmates. Others assign electricity as the cause; while the natives invest 
 the whole with many dark, superstitious surmises, which, in a country like this, 
 
 • The surface of Cairngorm is, in some places, sprinkled over with those crystals which have obtained 
 the name of Cairngorms, and are generally washed down by streams from cavities in the rocks. Scotch 
 topaz and beryl are likewise found here, but more plentifully on the south side, in the alluvia of the Dee 
 and the Don.
 
 152 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 SO mysterious a calamit}' was too well calculated to strengthen. The rifles of 
 the party were found twisted, as if from the effects of lightning ; hut the bodies 
 of the men themselves appeared when found as if they had been suffocated in 
 bed ; only one of the party was found a little way beyond the spot where the 
 hut had stood. 
 
 In this, as in almost every country where the ancient barons or feudal chiefs 
 were much given to this pastime,* the superstitious belief of invisible hunting 
 seems to have prevailed. Speaking of this, as popularly received in the neigh- 
 bouring country of " woody Ross," the author of " Albania" has the following 
 highly poetical passage : — 
 
 ** There oft is heard at midnight, or at noon, 
 Beginning faint, but rising still more loud 
 And nearer, voice of hunters, and of hounds. 
 And horns hoarse-winded, blowing far and keen : — 
 Forthwith the hubbub multiplies, the gale 
 Labours with wilder shrieks, and rifer din 
 Of liot pursuit ; the broken cry of deer 
 Mangled by throttling dogs ; the shouts of men. 
 And hoofs thick beating on the hollow hill. 
 Sudden the grazing heifer in the vale 
 Starts at the noise, and both the herdsman's ears 
 Tingle with inward dread. Aghast he eyes 
 The mountain's height, and all the ridges round, 
 Yet not one trace of living wight discerns: 
 Nor knows, o'erawed, and trembling as he stands, 
 To what — to whom he owes his idle fear. 
 To ghost, to witch, to fairy, or to tiend j 
 But wonders, and no end of wondering finds." 
 
 The town of Elgin stands in an open, alluvial, and fertile valley, skirted by 
 low terraced banks on the margin of the Lossie. It is a flourishing town, 
 having a well conducted weekly print, an extensive public b'brary, with the 
 benefit of an excellent academy ; and is much resorted to by families in easy 
 and affluent circumstances, who find in Elgin most of those rational pleasures 
 and advantages which attend a residence in the capital. The buildings of a 
 public nature — particularly the new church — are of chaste design and able 
 execution. The church, in the Grecian style, is considered the finest specimen 
 
 * For an account of, perhaps, the most gorgeous hunt on record, the reader may refer to that given in 
 fete to James V., by the earl of Athol, 1528. — Lindsay, page 266. And also " the hunting given by the 
 same nobleman for the entertainment of the queen," 1563, in which were killed three hundred and sixty 
 deer, five wolves, and some roes. — Barclay. Logan, vol. ii. p. 49,
 
 ELGIN. — CATHEDRAL. — GORDON CASTLE. 1 O.'] 
 
 of a sacred edifice in the uortii of Scotland. The others are the Infirmary,* the 
 Episcopal Chapel, and a richly endowed institution for tiie support of old people, 
 and for the education of the poorer classes.* The streets, like those of some other 
 old episcopal towns, abound with picturesque and fantastic-looking houses, which, 
 besides every variety of shape, often display projecting wooden balconies and 
 piazzas, overhanging and partly encroaching on the public way. But the pride of 
 Elgin is its venerable Cathedral, long styled the " lantern of the North," similar 
 to that of Haddington, which was anciently designated the " lamp of Lothian." 
 Of this magnificent temple the two square towers alone are left standing, each 
 eighty-four feet in height, but which were formerly terminated by lofty spires. 
 The large intermediate door-way, and part of the great window above, are entire. 
 The body of the cathedral measured two hundred and eighty-two, by eight-six 
 feet, over the walls: the transept was one hundred and fifteen feet in length; 
 while, in the centre of the whole, a superb tower, supported on massive pillars, 
 rose to the height of two hundred feet. — But it is not necessary here to enter 
 into a minute detail of its admirable proportions and elaborate workmanship, 
 the latter of which is not surpassed by that of any existing edifice in the king- 
 dom. The whole was surrounded by a wall of nearly a thousand yards in 
 circuit, with entrances by four different gates. The resident officials consisted 
 of a dean, a chancellor, archdeacon, chanter, treasurer, and twenty-four canons, 
 each of whom had a house and garden within the precincts. This magnificent 
 pile was founded in July, ]2!24, by Bishop Andrew Moray, and completed 
 afterwards, through the exertions of several popes, who directed collections to 
 be made for that purpose in various parts of Europe, and sent artisans and 
 architects from Rome to forward and superintend the execution of the work. 
 The scene represented in the engraving, is that of its destruction in 1390, by 
 the ferocious " Wolf of Badenoch" — son of King Robert II., already noticed in 
 these pages — who, having been excommunicated for some heinous outrage by the 
 bishop of Moray, assembled a tumultuary army of Highland vassals, and burned 
 this stately pile, " without," says Scott, " incurring punishment, or even 
 censure, from his feeble-minded sovereign, for an act which combined the glaring 
 crimes of rebellion and sacrilege." Its rebuilding was commenced by bishop 
 
 * Grey's Hospital," for the sick poor of the town and county, was founded and amply endowed by 
 Dr. Grey, of the East India Company's service, a native of Elgin ; and opened for the reception of patients 
 in 1819. The " Elgin Institution" was founded by another philanthropic native of the same place, and 
 lono- in the same service, Lieutenant-General Anderson — consisting of an Hospital, a School of Industry, 
 and a Free School — in which latter department, two hundred and thirty children are now (1S35) receiving 
 a gratuitous education, suited to their future prospects or capacities. These noble monuments of native 
 philanthropy are the source of innumerable blessings to the town and county. 
 
 VOL. II. R R
 
 154 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 John Innes, in 1407, and completed after thirteen years' labour. In 1506, the 
 great tower fell in, and was not restored till thirty years after. In the month 
 of February, 1568, the Regent Murray and his council, to raise money for 
 paying the soldiers, issued an order to strip the lead from the roofs of the 
 cathedrals of Elgin and Aberdeen, which was carried into effect ; but the vessel 
 freighted with the sacrilegious spoil, intended for the Dutch market, sank, it is 
 said, in the bay of Aberdeen. For some years past, public measures have been 
 adopted for preserving the remains of this splendid monument. Several grants 
 of money have been also judiciously expended in clearing away the great mass of 
 rubbish, so that a tolerably accurate idea may now be formed of the original 
 form and extent of the building. 
 
 The ruins of the Abbey of Pluscardine — another of these splendid relics of 
 the ancient hierarchy — are situated in a vale of the same name, about six 
 miles from Elgin, and which the patriotic earl of Fife has carefully protected 
 from the effects of further dilapidation. The Castle of Spynie, the ancient 
 residence of the bishops of Moray, in the same neighbourhood, is also well 
 deserving of the stranger's attention. 
 
 Gordon Castle, the subject of the annexed engraving, is proverbially known, 
 par excellence, as the palace of the North : and, certainly, no subject of the 
 British crown was more splendidly lodged than its late noble proprietor, the 
 duke of Gordon. The structure is of light coloured stone, and of extraordinary 
 dimensions, particularly in length. The main body of the building is connected 
 on either side by two straight arcades, each running one hundred and twenty feet 
 clear to the eye, and terminating at two wings of domestic offices, each sixty 
 feet long. The whole front is crowned with battlements. The accessory parts 
 are depressed in beautiful symmetry, and in subordination to the body, which, 
 in turn, is again surmounted by a massive Saxon tower, rising in lofty state behind 
 it — a relic of the ancient castle of the Gordons. The effect of this combination 
 is grand and imposing, and offers the highest proof of the genius by which 
 the architect* was enabled to plan, and carry into completion, this gorgeous 
 undertaking. 
 
 The plantations and pleasure-grounds by which this princely mansion is 
 surrounded, are beautiful in the extreme, and kept up with minute and unre- 
 mitting attention. Such an elysium as this, in the midst of a rugged and 
 mountainous country, and on the very site of a former morass, is a creation 
 which speaks loudly in the praise of human enterprise, and the judicious employ- 
 
 • Mr. Baxter, of Leith, who liad the advantage of several excellent suggestions from the duke of 
 Gordon, a man of acknowledged taste and discrimination.
 
 GORDON CASTLE. — DINGWALL. — STR ATHPEFFER. 155 
 
 nient of those resources which are never better expended than in giving encou- 
 ragement to talent, and inculcating habits of industry among the poor. The fine 
 old timber flanking the venerable avenues, and throwing its umbrageous shadows 
 over the scene, produces a magnificent effect. One troe in particular — a huge 
 lime behind the castle — measures eighteen feet in girth, and covers with its droop- 
 ing branches an area of two hundred feet. The trees which most prevail in these 
 grounds — forming a walled park of thirteen hundred acres — are limes, horse- 
 chestnuts, and walnuts. The flower and fruit gardens alone occupy about 
 twelve acres, with a fine piece of water in the centre, where the lordly swan 
 takes his cruise of pleasure. The surrounding forest, of vast extent, and spread- 
 ing over all the mountain, abounds in red deer and roe. Through this pine-clad 
 wilderness, the great road to the south winds for several miles. It is almost 
 superfluous to add, that every thing in the interior of this sumptuous mansion 
 is arranged with corresponding taste and magnificence. It has now descended to 
 the duke of Richmond, heir to the late duke of Gordon, whose name, while 
 marquess of Huntley, was so familiar among those of the early friends and 
 companions of George IV. His loss has been severely felt and lamented in 
 the country where he resided with such princely munificence, and where the 
 rites of hospitality were exercised with unbounded liberality. It may be affirmed 
 without fear of contradiction, that no visitor ever left Gordon Castle without 
 carrying with him a most elevated sense of what is meant by a true " Highland 
 welcome." 
 
 Ross-shire — the " Sylvan Ross" — is a wild mountainous country to the west- 
 ward ; but, on the east, where it skirts the German Ocean, it assumes the most 
 pleasing aspect, being naturally fertile, highly cultivated, and embellished with 
 all that indicates a condition progressively prosperous. In the way towards 
 Dingwall, some delightful glimpses are obtained of the grand scenery of western 
 Ross ; and the traveller, says Chambers, is impressed with an idea that he is 
 wandering through a stupendous and inaccessible citadel ; while the wayside is 
 adorned by various seats scattered up and down the valley of Conan. At the 
 mouth of a glen opening into Cromarty Frith,* near the western extremity of 
 that beautiful estuary, is the royal burgh of Dingwall, surrounded by some of 
 the most beautiful scenery in Scotland. The town, which is built in the Dutch 
 
 • The grand and imposing feature in tlie natural scenery of the county, is the gigantic Ben-weavis, 
 the summit of which was never known to be uncovered by snow, till the warm summer of 1826. Sir 
 Hector Monro, of Foulis, proprietor, holds his estate by a tenure from one of the early Scottish kings, 
 binding him to " bring three wain-loads of snow from the top of that hill whenever his majesty should 
 desire." — Chambers^ Statist. Cram. Hist,
 
 156 SCOTLAND ILLUSTKATED. 
 
 fashion, is chiefly remarkable for its town-hall — a curious old building, situated 
 near its centre, and surmounted with a spire and clock. On the north side is 
 the new church, a plain edifice ; and, in its neighbourhood, an obelisk, to the 
 memory of the first earl of Cromarty, secretary of state for Scotland in the reign 
 of Queen Anne, and whose life and eccentricities are so well known. The 
 powerful earls of Ross had once a castle here, the foundations of which are still 
 visible ; and here, also, they held their courts. The waters of the Frith come 
 close up to the town, but, owing to its being too shallow for that purpose, the 
 mouth of an adjoining stream has been deepened and formed into a canal for 
 admission of small vessels. 
 
 About two miles up the vale of Strathpeffer, is Knockfarrel, on the summit 
 of which is one of the finest specimens in the kingdom of those equivocal struc- 
 tures called vitrified forts — several of which we have already noticed — and which, 
 in various parts of the kingdom, have been discovered and partly described, to 
 the number of forty-nine. In the same vale, a little higher up, are the chalybeate 
 wells of Strathpeffer, much frequented in the fine season, and with many testi- 
 monials in favour of their medicinal virtues. 
 
 If the name of Cawdor Castle — as a popular writer* has well observed — be 
 not of itself sufficient to excite curiosity, the beauties of its situation, the 
 freshness in which all its appurtenances of ancient feudal gloom, and grandeur, 
 and means of defence, still remain, will amply recompense the stranger for any 
 trouble he may be put to in visiting it. Perched upon a low rock, overhanging 
 the bed of a Highland torrent, and surrounded on all sides by the largest forest 
 trees, which partly conceal the extent of its park, it stands a relic of the work 
 of several ages — a weather-beaten tower, encircled by later and less elevated 
 dwellings. The whole is inclosed within a moat, and approachable only by a 
 drawbridge, which rattles on its chains just as in the years long gone by. The 
 staircase — the iron-grated doors and wickets — the large baronial kitchen, partly 
 formed out of the native rock — the hall — the antiquated furniture — the carved 
 chimney-pieces and mantle-shelves — the rich and storied tapestry, and even the 
 grotesque family mirrors in use two centuries ago, are religiously preserved by 
 tlie family who still inhabit their ancestral halls. In this castle, according to 
 local tradition, the good King Duncan was murdered by Macbeth, his sister's 
 son. But, as we have already stated, the infamy of being the scene of that 
 deed is also claimed by the castle at Inverness, and another in the neighbourhood 
 of Elgin : but few would feel an interest in searching out the disagreeable 
 truth on this point, even were it now practicable to do so. Of the " Tlianes 
 • Mr. Anderson of Inverness. See his " Guide to the Highlands."
 
 CAWDOR CASTLE. — LORD LOVAT. 
 
 157 
 
 of Cawdor," mention is found in tlic records of Nairnshire as early as the year 
 1295 ; but there is no doubt that tlicy held possessions here long prior to that 
 date. They were hereditary sheriffs, or constables of the royal fortress of 
 Nairn, where they chiefly resided; and to this day, the constabulary garden 
 in that town, partly surrounded by the old castle wall, is still the property of 
 
 the Cawdor family. 
 
 Immediately opposite to the outer gate opening to the lawn, is seen a hawthorn 
 tree ; another stood some years since in the old garden ; and a third, still rooted 
 in the earth, is showai in the dungeon of the tower, extending its stem to the 
 arched ceihng. Tradition, in reference to this, relates that the founder ^^•as 
 led, either by a dream, or the counsel of a wizard, to build this castle at the 
 third hawthorn tree, where an ass, laden with a chest of gold, should stop.* 
 In allusion to this, prosperity to the family of Cawdor is metaphoricaUy expressed 
 in the well-known toast—" Freshness to its hawthorn-tree !" 
 
 " Spread the board and brim the bowl ! 
 And thus let every patriot soul 
 Drink the gladdening ' toast' with glee— 
 ' Health to Cawdok's Hawthorn-teee !' " &c. 
 
 The bed and chamber in which, according to family legends, Macbeth perpe- 
 trated the bloody deed, were usually shown to strangers, till a fire, which broke 
 out a few years ago in the great tower, destroyed every vestige of them ; and 
 nothing but the stone-vaulted roof could have saved the whole building from 
 destruction. It was between the ceiling and roof of another part of this castle 
 that Lord Lovat was concealed for a short time after the battle of Culloden ; 
 but, finding it was becoming the abode of too many of his enemies, he let 
 himself down from the battlements by a rope, and escaped to Morar, on the 
 west coast, where he was taken prisoner. The scenery around Cawdor Castle 
 is of the richest and most picturesque description. In the park are several of 
 the largest oaks, sycamores, elms, limes, ash, and pine trees, in the north of 
 Scotland. One of these, an ash, measures twenty-three feet in circumference, 
 at a foot from the ground. The garden, also, presents a fine specimen of an 
 ancient yew-tree ; and the adjoining woods and rocks abound in many interesting 
 plants, and especially in ferns, among which the splendid Scolopendrium vuhjare 
 occurs in great luxuriance. f 
 
 • A German tradition, as the reader may perhaps remember, gives a similar origin to an ancient fastness 
 in the Black forest, Wirteniberg.— &<; the Author's " German Courts." 
 f Anderson. 
 VOL. II. S S
 
 158 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 COUNTY OF SUTHERLAND. 
 
 The extensive province on which we now enter, though naturally wild and 
 mountainous, has latterly undergone so many favourable changes in its moral 
 and physical aspect, that we can hardly recognise the features by which it was 
 so strongly marked, even at the close of the last century. Of Sutherland it might 
 then have been said with little exaggeration — 
 
 " La nature maratre, en ces affreux climats, 
 
 Ne produit, au lieu d'or, que du fer, des soldats, 
 Tout son front herisse n'offre aux desirs de I'honime, 
 Rien qui puisse tenter Tavarice de Rome."* 
 
 But, in the present day, a complete revolution has taken place ; fields once 
 covered with heath or sand, are now waving with grain. The mountain pastures 
 are stocked with cattle ; the coasts sprinkled with villages ; the plough has 
 superseded the cascromf and the spade ; the inhabitants, once rude as their soil, 
 but rescued at last from the dominion of prejudice, have been taught the 
 blessings of industry, peace, and independence. Districts, that once bore the 
 stamp of almost unconquerable sterility, have been brought into a state of 
 successful cultivation, and, with their thriving population, now afford the most 
 unequivocal testimony that indolence is the bane, and industry the blessing of 
 society. Sutherland has now all the appearance of a new country that has 
 suddenly risen into life and importance, rewarding those who had the courage 
 and perseverance to examine its resources, and to bring its hidden treasures 
 into light. There are few settlements even in the New World, probably, where, 
 within so short a period, so much has been done to ameliorate the present gene- 
 ration, and to insure a comfortable provision for the next. Whenever we can 
 effectually inculcate habits of industry, and teach an individual to earn his 
 
 • Crebillon. Rhadamiste. Nolker le Begue, a monk of St. Gall, desirous of painting the rugged 
 character of Switzerland in a single line, thus described it: — 
 
 " Duraviris, et dura fide, durissima sede." 
 To which another monk replied, in testimony of its improved condition — 
 " Dura fuit quondam, sed nunc est mollis ut unda, 
 Exceptaque/f/<?, quam cordc fatetur et ore." 
 It would be difficult to find three lines which could depict more forcibly the state of Sutherland as it 
 was, and as it is. 
 
 t The ancient foot-plough. — See the previous notice of it in this work.
 
 IMPROVED STATE OF SUTHERLAND. 159 
 
 own subsistence, we certainly perform a more Lasting service to himself and to 
 the state, than if, from time to time, we only ministered in charity to his neces- 
 sities. The hand that gives liberally, too often paralyzes that which receives, and 
 which should gain its own livelihood. The first duty of all to whom Providence 
 has confided the welfare of subjects or servants, is to place within their reach 
 the stimulus to exertion — the means of acquiring a comfortable livelihood as the 
 premium of industry. No bread is so sweet as that which the labourer himself 
 has sown, reaped, and gathered in ; for, along with the enjoyment, he feels the 
 consciousness of having deserved it ; and thus, by the labour of his hands, realizes 
 that cheerful independence to which he had aspired. No man better under- 
 stood and appreciated these advantages, and the means by which they were to 
 be attained, than the late Duke of Sutherland ; and no landlord ever accom- 
 plished in one lifetime so much for the lasting benefit of the country, and the 
 permanent good of his numerous tenantry. Independently, too, of the imme- 
 diate benefit conferred on the population of this extensive province by his 
 own unremitting exertions, his example was adopted, his patriotism and 
 philanthropy, from being admired, were imitated by others, who, in their respec- 
 tive districts, led the way to the same happy results. 
 
 In order to exemplify a few of those unprecedented improvements effected 
 by the late duke, while marquess of Stafford, we may state, on the autho- 
 rity of Mr. Loch,* that even at the late period of 1812, there was no post 
 road through the whole county of Sutherland, and only one bridge at Brora. 
 In the course of ten or twelve years, however, he had constructed four hundred 
 and fifty miles of road, well and sufficiently made, with one hundred and thirty- 
 four bridges exceeding ten feet span, several consisting of three arches of large 
 dimensions, many of two, while the cast-iron arch at Bonar of one hundred and 
 fifty feet span, manufactured near Shrewsbury and transported to this remote 
 portion of the kingdom, attests the enterprise of the promoters of the measure,f 
 and the skill of those who executed it. Up to the period in question, however, 
 Sutherland had undergone but little change from that state which formerly 
 characterised the rest of the Highlands of Scotland. For while the purposes 
 of clanship and war had ceased to exist and to afford their occupation to the 
 people, the increase of population received no check, and other sources of 
 
 • Memoir of George Granville, late Duke op Sutherland, K.G. By James Loch, Esq., M.P. 
 ISSl, (not published). — See also New Statist. Ace. 1836. 
 
 t At the period when these improvements were undertaken, parliament had agreed to advance a moiety 
 of the expense for constructing roads, on condition that the proprietors of the land should advance the 
 remainder. Of this the marquess of Stafford was the first to avail himself — While supported by the 
 counties, he paid the whole contribution for Sutherland, amounting to 2000/. — Memoir.
 
 160 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 employment had not yet been introduced. Thus some of the evils of a crowded 
 jjopulation, without employment, began to be felt. But, independently of this 
 natural course of events, the circumstances of the people were powerfully 
 influenced in consequence of the improvements of the more southern counties 
 having driven into the mountains of Sutherland those who could not, or who 
 would not, apply themselves to the more regular and industrious habits of 
 society, which such alterations rendered necessary. Many also, who, by the 
 commission of less grave offences, had rendered themselves obnoxious to the 
 laws — especially those of the revenue — found a safe refuge in the remote and 
 less accessible portions of the Sutherland and Reay estates, where they induced 
 the tacksmen to receive them as sub-tenants, by undertaking to pay rents which 
 never could be reahzed out of the funds of honest industry. The evils of such 
 a system were enormous. The introduction of such men, brought up in lawless 
 pursuits, among the old, well-doing, and moral cottagers of the estate, deprived 
 the latter of many of the comforts they had hitherto enjoyed, and diminished 
 the means for the payment of their rent, while the amount exacted by the 
 tacksmen remained the same, so that their condition was reduced, and they were 
 in many instances forced to adopt the same means of realizing it as the fugitive 
 settlers. The Duke of Sutherland's great object was to put an effectual end to 
 this system, and to make all who lived upon these estates immediate tenants of 
 the landlord, so that the managers should become acquainted with the wants of 
 all, and that the poorest tenant on the property might have a direct appeal to 
 himself and to the Duchess. His next object was to stimulate their industry, and 
 rouse their dormant energies, expecting thereby to raise their character, and 
 give them a desire of independence. In this he succeeded in a degree far beyond 
 his own expectations, or the anticipation of those who were most active in 
 carrying his benevolent intentions into effect. This, however, was attended with 
 many diflSculties ; for there were too many interests to be interfered with, too 
 many prejudices to be overcome, not to produce considerable complaints, and 
 some opposition. Such was sure to be the case, and such actually happened. 
 The Duke of Sutherland, however, was not to be shaken in his purpose. He 
 had considered the subject in every aspect ; he had prepared the peojile for the 
 change by a timely notice of two years ; he had abandoned his rents during the 
 period of such change, and he had furnished the timber required for their new 
 houses. Having satisfied himself, therefore, that he had provided not only 
 sufficiently, but liberally, for every one whose possession he disturbed— substi- 
 tuting a lot better suited as a lasting provision for the poor man's family, and 
 under the peculiar circumstances of the country much better calculated to reward
 
 LATE DUKE OF SUTHERLAND. 
 
 161 
 
 his industry and labour — the Duke pursued his course with that cahn equanimity 
 which formed so distinguishing a feature in his character, and with that perse- 
 vering resolution which never forsook him when he felt that he was right. And 
 never, surely, was person so fully rewarded for his energy and perseverance, ibr 
 never was success more complete. He had the great satisfaction of living to 
 see every cotter on his estate holding immediately of himself, benefited by 
 reduced rent, freed from vexatious services, and enjoying the entire fruits of his 
 own labour. He had the inexpressible satisfaction also of knowing, that 
 however disinclined many of them might have been to these alterations in the 
 first instance, they all finally acknowledged,* and are now entirely sensible of, 
 the great benefits which they have derived from the change." Such benefits are 
 not of an equivocal or hidden nature, but exhibited in the wonderful improve- 
 ment in their appearance and in their dress — in the style and character as well 
 as in the cleanliness of their houses — in the establishment of schools — in the 
 introduction of gardening — and in the cultivation of several thousand acres 
 of land that had heretofore lain waste, and which they now enjoy without any 
 increase of rent. 
 
 The manner in which these admirable changes were efiected, was greatly 
 accelerated by that perfect unanimity between the Duke and Duchess which 
 was sure to forward every scheme for the public good, and every act of private 
 beneficence. " The interest which the Duke took in these improvements 
 was intense. Having, after his first illness, gone to one of the principal 
 new settlements in the vicinity of Brora, he ascended a knoll, whence could be 
 observed the whole scene of new cottages and improvements, comprising a vast 
 district, which, from having been an arid waste not many years before, was now 
 under flourishing crops, which the people were in the act of securing. After 
 surveying the scene for some time with much evident satisfaction : ' It is,' he 
 observed, ' it is indeed well worth all that it has cost !' meaning not only the 
 outlay in capital, but the unjust accusations that were at one moment heaped 
 upon his plans, and were so derogatory of his motives." 
 
 Having thus adverted to a few of the vast and rapid improvements effected 
 by the diligence, skill, and liberality of this patriotic and enhghtened noble- 
 
 * In proof of this we may add, that, on revisiting his estates in June, 1826, the satisfaction of the people 
 was loud and universal ; while their unequivocal attachment was displayed in the presentation of a piece 
 of plate, of eight hundred guineas' value, subscribed for in small sums by more than me lhousai>d of his 
 tenants, " in testimony op the attachment of a pf.oi'Le advanced to indepi.ndence, industry, 
 
 AND COMFOKT, AND SUPPOHTED AMIDST THE CALAMITIES WHICH OPPRESSED AGRICU I.TUtlE, BY THE 
 WISDOM, THE JUSTICE, AND THE GENEROSITY OF THEIR BELOVED LANDLORD, CEURGE GRASVILLE, 
 
 Duke of Sutherland," &c. — See the " Memoir'' above quoted. 
 TOL II. T T
 
 162 SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 man, we come to that period vvhicli was to terminate a career ripe in every 
 ennobling virtue, and rich beyond precedent in that series of events which 
 were the commencement of a new era for the county, and a source of the 
 purest satisfaction to himself. 
 
 In July, 1833, after he had been raised bj' the unsolicited favour of his 
 sovereign to the highest title in the peerage, the Duke set out on his last visit 
 to Sutherland, where the whole population were anxiously employed in making 
 arrangements for his welcome— such as might best express their respect and 
 gratitude, and the joy they felt at seeing the oldest title in the kingdom 
 revived in the person of their munificent landlord. The warmth of congra- 
 tulation, however, was speedily chilled by the most painful apprehensions. On 
 his landing at Dunrobin, on the fifth of July, the Duke was still suffering from 
 the debilitating effects of influenza. The symptoms, though twice partially 
 subdued, gradually assumed a more serious character, till, on the nineteenth of 
 the same month, he closed in tranquillity a life of imblemished honour and 
 extensive beneficence. 
 
 In the words of the Lord Chief Commissioner Adam, " he devoted his splendid 
 rank and fortune to promote the happiness of mankind in all its ranks. He 
 successfully improved the condition of all under his extensive protection, by 
 a most judicious and well-directed beneficence ; and added most materially to 
 the satisfaction of that class of society whose leisure and education render the 
 improvement of the fine arts a principal part of their enjoyment : to which it 
 may be added, that his perfect goodness rendered his own family, in all its 
 branches, a scene of uncommon happiness."* 
 
 Restricted by the limited nature of the present work,f we must now close 
 our brief sketch of Sutherland with a cursory notice of the two subjects chosen 
 for illustration. The first of these, Dunrobin Castle, is said to be the oldest 
 inhabited mansion now existing in Britain. It is situated on a high natural 
 terrace, overlooking the sea, with a large sloping garden in front, enriched vnth 
 verdant masses of fruit and forest trees, and a magnificent park in the back- 
 ground. But the noblest feature in the landscape is undoubtedly the sea, which 
 harmonizes well with the Castle, whose antique towers soar with feudal pomp 
 and sternness over the subject waves. On the platform near the gate, a few 
 
 " The respect and affection in wliich his memory was held are powerfully exhibited by the fact, that, 
 immediately after his funeral was over, meetings were simultaneously held in Staffordshire, Shropshire, 
 and in Sutherland. At each of these, il was determined to erect a monument to his memory. In Suther- 
 land, the summit of Ren Bhraggie (as seen in the engraving) was the site chosen for this memorial, the 
 contributors to which amounted to two thousand two hundred and ninety-nine." 
 
 t The history of Sutherland, and other remarkable districts, will be resumed on another occasion.
 
 '«
 
 ..... ,^' 
 
 .J^- 
 
 
 »' 
 
 •'*•/
 
 DUNROBIN CASTLE. — CAPE WRATH. 163 
 
 pieces of ordnance, " like retired veterans," still do duty so far as appearances 
 go, but moat and portcullis are gone. To the ancient building, erected in tlie 
 thirteenth century,* considerable additions have been lately made ; and, happily 
 for the picturesque, they are in strict keeping with the original. The interior 
 of the Castle has been kept as much as possible in its primitive simplicity. 
 
 The country and grounds around Dunrobin, from their mixture of cultivation 
 with mountain scenery, as well as their extent and variety, are highly pic- 
 turesque. One of the most perfect Pictish towers that ever delighted an antiquary, 
 stands on the east of the Castle ; and, on digging at the spot lately, some bones 
 and charcoal were found. Golspie-burn-f- flows through a deep wooded ravine, 
 that occasionally may vie with the banks of the Findliorn in wildness and 
 beauty, and is further enriched by a succession of picturesque waterfalls. The 
 deer forests are extensive, well-stocked, and such as would have afforded ample 
 scope to the most chase-loving of Scottish sovereigns. 
 
 The whole of the immense tract, called " Lord Reay's country," and from 
 time immemorial the habitation of the clan Mackay, has now been added to 
 the other estates of the Sutherland family. It abounds in wild, majestic scenery; 
 its lakes, rivers, caves, spacious bays, headlands, and numberless curiosities, 
 natural and artificial, would alone occupy a volume of description. We proceed, 
 therefore, to offer a few words on the subject of the engraving. 
 
 Cape Wrath, the " Parph" of ancient geographers, is a remarkably bold head- 
 land, forming the marked and angular north-west extremity of Great Britain. 
 It is, consequently, one of the extreme points of our island, and on that account, 
 like John o' Groat's, or the Land's End, is much visited by strangers. Its 
 stupendous granitic front — its extensive and splendid ocean scenery — and the 
 peculiarly wild character of the country by which it is approached, invest Cape 
 Wrath with an interest to which few, if any, other promontories on the British 
 
 • Tlie Thanes of Sutherland first received the title of earls from Malcolm Canmore, kitiff of Scotland, 
 *.D. 1031. The duchess-countess is the twenty-third representative of this family, and a lineal descendant 
 of Robert Bruce— the third William, earl of Sutherland, having been married to the princess Margaret, 
 daughter of that monarch. On the visit of King George IV. to Edinburgh, in August 1822, it was deter- 
 mined by His Majesty that the right of carrying the Scottish sceptre lay with this noble family; and Lord 
 Francis Leveson Gower was permitted to act as deputy for his mother, the duchess-countess, in that 
 honourable office. — See our sketch of the ceremony in the first vol. of this work, art. " King's Visit to 
 Edinburgh." 
 
 t A clergyman from Orkney had brought his son, a fine intelligent boy, with him on a visit to some 
 friends in the south. They had travelled during the night ; and when the scenery of Golspie, seen on a 
 bright summer's morning, burst on the view, the boy, who had hitherto been a total stranger to woods and 
 trees, and familiar only with the bare rocks and ocean of his native landscape, seemed perfectly entranced 
 with astonishment and delighti He ran about, wondering at all he saw ; eagerly exploring every leaf and 
 flower, as if entering on possession of a new world of enjoyment. — Imrrness Courier. Statist. Anderson.
 
 IgJ. SCOTLAND ILLUSTRATED. 
 
 coast can lay claim. The shore, however, is here so precipitous and steep, 
 that, from the land, it cannot be viewed to advantage without great difficulty. 
 In fair weather, therefore, the survey of this magnificent headland is generally 
 attempted by sea. But the strong currents and high swollen waves that at all 
 times roll at the Cape, joined to the risk of one of those sudden squalls that 
 characterize the coast, frequently deter persons not accustomed to boating 
 from making the attempt. Sir Walter Scott, in his diary, kept during a 
 cruise in these seas in the summer of 1814, thus describes it: — "This dread 
 Cape, so fatal to mariners, is a high promontory, whose steep sides go sheer 
 down to the breakers which lash its feet. There is no landing, except 
 in a small creek, about a mile and a half to the eastward. There, the foam 
 of the sea plays at ' long-bowls' with a huge collection of large stones, — some 
 of them a ton in weight — but which these fearful billows chuck up and down 
 as a child tosses a ball. Cape Wrath," he adds, " is a striking point, both from 
 the dignity of its own appearance, and from the mental association of its being 
 the extreme cape of Scotland, with reference to the north-west. There is no 
 land in the direct line between this point and America. I saw a pair of large 
 eagles, and, if I had had the rifle', might have had a shot ; for the birds, when I 
 first saw them, were perched upon a rock, within about sixty or seventy yards. 
 Here, I suppose, they are little disturbed, for they showed no alarm. In front 
 of the Cape are some angry breakers, called the ' Staggs,' occasioned by rocks, 
 which are visible at low water." The scene is altogether well calculated to make 
 a deep and lasting impression on the visitor's mind. 
 
 " 'Tis not alone tlie scene — the man, Anseltno — 
 The man finds sympathies in these wild wastes 
 And roughly tumbling seas, which fairer riews 
 And smoother waves deny him." 
 
 END OF VOL. II. 
 
 R. CLAY, PRINTEU, BRi. AD-Sl RFF.T-iULL.
 
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