- . . I mi ' ftp an ' . . If '. 1 ' : m m Elements of Drawing BY GEORGE F. BLESSING, M.E., PH.D. Professor of Mechanical Engineering and in charge of Engineering, Swarthmore College Formerly Assistant Professor of Machine Design, Cornell University AND LEWIS A. DARLING, E. IN M.E. Engineering Department Remy Electric Co., Formerly Assistant Professor of Machine Design, Cornell University FIRST EDITION SECOND THOUSAND NEW YORK JOHN WILEY & SONS LONDON: CHAPMAN & HALL, LIMITED 1913 BY THE SAME AUTHORS ELEMENTS OF DESCRIPTIVE GEOMETRY 8vo, xvii +219 pages, 168 figures. Cloth, $1.50 net. CONTENTS. Preface. Introduction. Definitions, Notation and First Principles, Problems on the Point. Point and Line Problems. Line and Plane Problems. Solids. Tangent Planes and Double- Curved Surfaces of Revolution. Sections. Inter- sections and Developments. COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY GEORGE F. BLESSING AND LEWIS A. DARLING Stanbopc jprcss F. H. GILSON COMPANY BOSTON, U.S.A. PREFACE IT is the purpose of this book to present a course of instruc- tion in Elementary Drawing for beginners who intend to pursue a course in engineering or who desire to prepare themselves to do commercial drafting. The work herein outlined, as well as that contained in the companion volume, "Elements of De- scriptive Geometry" by the same authors, is based on the drawing-room courses required of all first-year students in Mechanical and Electrical Engineering in Sibley College, Cornell University, as a preparation for the more advanced work of design in the second and third years of the course, which is also required of all students in the college. The task of writing the book and its companion volume was undertaken by the authors,, at the writer's request, while they were members of the staff of instruction of the Department of Machine Design and Construction of Sibley College. The object in view was twofold, namely, to obtain a book exactly suited to the needs of the Department, which we had heretofore been unable to do; and also to put into permanent shape the methods and principles used in this* work, thus forming one of a correlated series of texts which eventually, it is expected, will fully cover the entire work of the department. The authors brought to the task a full knowledge of the more advanced work of the Department, having had experience in teaching these advanced subjects in design which, with their experience elsewhere both in practical and teaching positions, was of great aid in improving and refining this more elementary work. There is nothing experimental in the principles or methods outlined in the book, as most of them have been in constant use in Sibley College for years and have been productive of most excellent results, not only in teaching the art of elementary drawing but as a preparation for the more advanced work in design. 295883 vi PREFACE Particular attention is given in the drawing-room work in Sibley College to the art of lettering and the methods presented in the chapter on lettering have been remarkably successful. Only two alphabets have been presented, it being considered best to confine the student's efforts to a thorough study and practice of those two which are of almost universal use rather than to make a superficial study of more elaborate alphabets which find very limited, or no use. The system of spacing was very largely developed by Prof. John T. Williams, who has taught it for a number of years with marked success. The authors have refined the system and also developed and presented a spacing chart, as it is believed that some instructors may prefer its use to that of rules. In regard to the material on "drawing-room system," no claim is made by the authors that it is the best in the sense that there is a best system, but it is their belief, which is based on considerable experience, that if this system is well understood by the student he will have no trouble in understanding any other he may be called upon to work with. Chapter V has been presented because of the growing popu- larity of isometric drawing in practically all branches of tech- nical work. It will be noted that though the book is based on the practice of Sibley College it is written in a flexible manner so as to be adaptable to almost any logical sequence of presentation, the general text matter applying equally to the drawing-board course presented or to a beginners' course arranged by in- structors in the subject. The following suggestions by the authors as to the use of this book will make this clearer. The text matter is intended to give in a practical and concise form such information as the beginner should have in order to intelligently pursue the drawing-board work. It is not supposed that lessons be assigned for recitation after the manner usually followed in teaching textbooks, that is, by beginning with Chapter I and assigning consecutive para- graphs to the end. The paragraphs should be assigned at the time the information can be applied directly to the drawing being executed. To facilitate this method each drawing plate PREFACE Vii has certain paragraphs assigned and at the completion of the plate there should be an examination, oral or written, covering these paragraphs. The proper method of covering the text previous to examinations will depend upon the methods of the institution using the book. It is most desirable to have regular recitation periods, and the authors believe one hour per week upon recitation should cover the work satisfactorily. Where this is impracticable the instructor should question the student as he proceeds with his work in the drawing-room. Especial attention should be directed to points where the student's work shows a lack of knowledge and he should be required to refer at this time to the parts of the text covering the points in ques- tion. Where the book is used in this manner, that is, simply as a book of reference, a preliminary examination should be held after the completion of each plate. The instructor should con- stantly keep in mind the object of this book, which is to teach the student: ist, how to select, care for, and use drawing instruments. 2nd, how to make and read technical drawings. 3rd, how to think over the drawing board. 4th, to lead him to consider the relation drawing bears to design, shop processes, and shop organization. The third and fourth items are not usually given the attention their importance demands, and it is not unusual to see a college graduate make a beautiful drawing whjch is full of errors, due to the fact that all thought has been given to the drawing paper and none to the object it represents or to the shop methods necessary to produce this object. To aid in overcoming this difficulty the authors have avoided the use of models of the geometric or kindergarten type or of machine parts selected at random. The models selected are parts of a wood-turning speed lathe, and are selected because the students will most likely be more familiar with this machine than any other. Also in most places where this course is taught the student will be working on his wood-turning exercises in the shop, on this machine, at about viii PREFACE the same time he is doing his drawing. For this reason he is most apt to study the principles of design involved, the relation of parts, etc., and thus do his work in a much more intelligent manner than if he held no further interest in the model than that of making a dimensional picture of it. DEXTER S. KJMBALL, Professor of Machine Design and Construction, Cornell University. June 8, 1912. AUTHORS' NOTE The authors are deeply indebted to Prof. J. T. Williams of Sibley College, Cornell University, without whose assistance and cooperation this book in its present form would not have been possible. Grateful acknowledgment is also made of assistance by Prof. D. S. Kimball in developing the book and outlining its scope, and to Prof. G. W. Lewis, Messrs. A. Kessler and L. J. Brad- ford for assistance in preparing material and reading proof. CONTENTS. PAGE FRONTISPIECE i Perspective View of Wood-turning Speed Lathe. Partial Longi- tudinal Section through Headstock. Partial Longitudinal Section through Tailstock. PREFACE v General Purpose of the Book. Basis on which the Book is Planned. Special Attention Given to Lettering. Growing Popularity of Iso- metric Drawing. Flexibility of the Book. The General Text to be Referred to as Needed and Consecutive Text Lessons not to be Given. Points to be Kept in Mind by the Instructor. Models Selected for the Courses in Drawing are Parts of a Wood-turning Speed Lathe. Author's Acknowledgment. CHAPTER I. SELECTION, CARE AND USE OF DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS. SEC. 1. Introductory i Quality of Instruments. Care of Instruments. Description of Instruments and Supplies. 2. List of Instruments and Supplies Necessary for Complete Courses. . 2 3. Drawing Paper 4 Selection. Quality. Paper for Inked Drawings. Paper for Pencil Drawings. Working Side. Detail Manila Paper. Whatman Paper. 4. Ruled Paper 5 Purpose. Cross-section Ruling. Isometric Ruling. Cleaning Ruled Paper. 5. Tracing Paper 6 Description. Blue Prints from. 6. Tracing Cloth 6 Description. The Glazed Side. The Dull Side. Cutting Tracing Cloth to Size. Quality to Use. 7. Blue-print Paper 6 Description. Formula for Making Blue-print Paper. Storage. 8. Drawing Boards 7 Material and Design. Testing. 9. Thumb Tacks Best Design. Use of. ix X CONTENTS SEC. PAGE 10. T-Squares 8 Purpose. Design and Materials. To Test. Care of. Use of. 11. Triangles 10 Design and Materials. Desirable Size. Testing the Angles and Edges. Use of. 12. Irregular Curves 13 Design and Materials. Use of. 13. Pencil Pointer 14 Design and Use of. 14. Lead Pencils 14 Essential Qualities. Commercial Rating. Design of. Care of. To Sharpen. The Cone Point. The Chisel Edge. To sharpen Lead for Bow Pencil or Compass. 15. Erasers and Erasures f 16 Purpose and Quality. Method of Making Erasures. 16. Erasing Shield 17 Use and ^Design of. 17. Soapstone 18 Description and Use of. 18. Drawing Ink 18 Requirements of a Good Drawing Ink. Colored Drawing Inks. Care of. 19. Ordinary Pens 18 Description of Common Styles. Ball-pointed Pen. Crow-quill Pen. Selecting a Pen. "Breaking in" and Use of Pen. 20. Pen Holders 20 Design of. 21. Ruling Pens 20 Design and Materials. To Adjust. To Fill. Proper Use of. Care of. To Clean Pen Blades. To Sharpen. To Test. 22. Compasses 23 Purpose. Names of Parts. Materials of. Design of. The Socket- joint and Head-joint Design. The Needle Point. The Extension Bar. To Prepare and Use the Compass. 23. Dividers 26 Purpose. Design and Materials. Use of. 24. Bow Dividers 27 Purpose and Advantage. 25. Bow Pencils , 27 Purpose and Advantage- Ordinary Design of. Materials of. Special Design of. To Prepare the Bow Pencil. To Test. 26. Bow Pens 28 Purpose. Requirements. Care and Use of. 27. Scales 29 Purpose. Engineer's Scale. Architect's Scale. Materials and Design. Scale of Triangular Cross Section. Proper Use. To Test. 28. Protractors 31 Purpose. Materials and Design, Use of. CONTENTS XI SEC. PAGE 29. Machinist's Calipers, Dividers, and Steel Rule 32 Use of. Materials and Design. Outside Calipers. Inside Calipers. Proper Use of Calipers. Design and Use of Dividers. Microme- ters and Extremely Accurate Measurements. 30. Blotter, Penwiper, and Instrument Rag 33 Use of Blotter. Use of Linen Pen Rag. Use of Instrument Rag. CHAPTER II. LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING. 31. Introductory 34 Importance of Good Lettering. Simple Style of Lettering. Gothic Alphabet. Ability to Letter. 32. The Study of Lettering 34 Not a Purely Mechanical Process. Outline and Characteristics of Letters. Grouping of Letters. Sense of Proportion. Practice and Patience. Critical Study of Lettering. 33. Slope of Letters 36 Advantages of the Inclined Alphabet. Slope Used in this Work, and how Obtained. 34. General Description of Model Letters 37 The Stem, Definition of. Top, Bottom, and Side Guide Lines. Center Lines in lettering. Dimensions on Model Letters. Slope of Model Letters. Direction Arrows with Numbers. System of Strokes. 35. Spacing . 39 Importance of Correct Spacing. How to Judge Spacing. Distance between Letters. Element of Adjacency, Defined. Spacing for Various Line Combinations in Capital Letters. Spacing of Numerals. Spacing of Capital Letters in Combination with Small Letters and of Small Letters. Spacing between Words. Spacing between Sentences. Spacing Allowed for Punctuation Marks. 36. Systematic Method of Lettering 44 37. The Size and the Lettering of Letter Sheets 44 SET OF FREE-HAND LETTERING EXERCISES 38. Outline and Characteristics of Capital (or Upper-case) Letters . Composed of Straight Lines Only 44 Detailed Description of each of the Following Straight-line Capital Letters: /, L, F, E, II, T, N, M, Y, V, X, A, K, Z and W. 39. Sheet A 4 Exercise in Making Large-size, Straight-line Capital Letters Free-hand. (See Fig. 39, page 49.) 40. The Sloping Ellipse 5 Construction of. Medium Slope. Extreme Slope. 41. Outline and Characteristics of Capital (or Upper-case) Letters. Composed Wholly or Partly of Curved Lines 51 Detailed Description of Each of the following Curved-line Capital Letters: 0, Q, C, G, D, U, J, P,R,B, S, and the Abbreviation &. xii CONTENTS SEC. PAGE 42. Sheet B 54 Exercise in Making Large-size, Curved-line Capital Letters Free-hand. (See Fig. 41, page 55.) 43. Sheet C 56 Exercise in Making Capital Alphabet Free-hand to a Reduced Size. (See Fig. 42, page 57.) 44. Outline and Characteristics of Numerals 58 Detailed Description of each of the Numerals: 4, 7, o, g, 6, 5, 8, j, and 2. 45. Sheet D 60 Exercise in Making Numerals of Both Large and Reduced Size Free- hand. (See Fig. 43, page 6 1.) 46. Sheet E 60 Free-hand Exercise in Making Slant, Capital, Gothic Letters of a Size Suitable for Notes on Drawings. (See Fig. 44, page 62.) 47. The Small (or Lower-case) Letters of the Inclined Gothic Alphabet. . 60 Detailed Description of Each of the Lower-case Letters Grouped as Follows: o. a, d, g, q. b, p. c, e. n, r, h, m. u, y. /, i, k, t,f,j- s.v, w. x. z. 48. Sheet F 67 Free-hand Exercise in Making the Small (or Lower-case) Letters to a Large and Reduced Scale. (See Fig. 45, page 68.) 49. Designing Headings and Titles 69 50. Sheet G 69 Free-hand Lettering Exercise in Laying Out a Practical Title Form and Bill of Material. (See Fig. 47, page 70.) 51. Examination on Chapter II 69 CHAPTER III. MECHANICAL DRAWING AND DRAFTING ROOM PRACTICE. 52. Introductory 71 The Purpose and Field of Drawing. A Perspective Drawing. A Mechanical Drawing. Symbols and Notes on Drawings. 53. Projection and Projected Views 73. Orthographic Projection. Vertical Plane of Projection. Horizontal Plane of Projection. Third Angle Projection. Various Methods of " Folding " Planes of Projection. Plan View. Side Elevation. Front Elevation. 54. Conventional Lines 76 Contrast between Lines. "Weight" of a Line, Denned. Construction and Weight of the Visible Line, the Invisible Line, the Section Line, the Dimension Line, Arrow Heads, the Reference Line, and the Center Line. Symbol for Center line. A " Finished " Line. A Clear-cut Line. A Line Free from Waves. A Line of Unvarying Width. A Line Colored to the Same Degree throughout. 55. Sectioning and Sectional Views 79 Purpose of a " Section." Longitudinal Section. Transverse Section. Simple Section. Compound Section. Conventional Sectioning. Sectioning Adjoining Pieces. A Number to Represent a Material. CONTENTS xiii SEC. PAGE How to Draw and Space Section Lines. Section Liner. To Section a Large Area. Location of the Section. Certain Details not Sec- tioned. A Quarter Section View. A "Turned-up" Section. 56. Number and Arrangement of Views 83 Determining on the Views, their Number and Arrangement. Views Arranged According to Third Angle Projection. Position in which to Represent a Part. Blocking Out the Sheet. 57. Detail Drawings 85 Purpose of a Detail Drawing. The Number of Parts Detailed on a Single Sheet. Operation Sheets. Grouping Parts on a Sheet. Work- ing Up the Views. 58. Assembly Drawings 86 Purpose of Assembly Drawings. Dimensions on Assembly Drawings. 59. Conventional Methods 87 Various Uses of. Lack of Uniformity in Common Conventions (see Fig. 65, page 88). Conventional Method of Showing Each of the Fol- y lowing: Solid Shaft, Bearing, Timber Section, Hollow Shaft, Holes Equally Spaced Around a Circle, Broken Lines to Represent a Moving Arm in Extreme Positions, Broken Lines to Represent a Part in Several Positions, Broken Lines to Represent a Part not Completely Drawn, Visible V Threads, Invisible V Threads, Square Thread, National Acme Thread, Drilled Holes, Tapped Holes, Reference Numbers, and Cross- section of Steel Shapes. 60. Drawing to Scale 9 Explanation of. Method of Making a Scale. "Scales " in Common Use. To "Read" a Scale. Shrink Rule for Pattern Makers. 61. Choice of a Scale in Drawing 93 Best "Scale" to Use. To Determine the Largest Scale Permissible. To Find the Scale for Each of Several Parts Represented on the Same Sheet. 62. Dimensioning Working Drawings 94 Importance of Dimensions. How to Select the Dimensions. When Dimensioning is Satisfactory. Results of Inaccurate Dimensioning. To Check Dimensions. Dimensions not to Scale. Arrowheads, Loca- tion of. Dimension Numbers, the Selection and Location of. Abbre- viation for "Feet." Symbol for Inches. Refinement in Dimensions. Dimensioning Rough Castings. Limits in Dimensioning. Overall and Sub-divided Dimensions. Repetition of a Dimension. Distribu- tion of Dimensions. Dimensioning Similar Parts. "Leader," Defini- tion of. Dimensions which Fall on a Sectioned Area. Dimensioning a Circle, a Cored Hole, Fillets, a Radius, a Threaded Piece, a Tapped Hole, Angles and Tapers. 63. Notes on a Drawing 7 When Necessary. How to Compose and Lay Out. Style of Lettering to Use in this Work. 64. Indicating the Finish of Surfaces 9& When a Surface is "Rough." When a Surface is "Finished." - Some of the Kinds of Shop Finishes. To Indicate the Finish Desired. xiv CONTENTS SEC. PAGE 65. Use of Record Forms and Titles 98 A Complete Record of Each Drawing is Essential. Information which is Necessary and which Should be Recorded. Changes on Drawings, Record of. 66. The Title-form on a Drawing 100 Location. No One Standard Form. Title Form Used in this Work. Style, Size and Arrangement of Lettering in Title Form. 67. Bill of Material 101 Where Used and Purpose of. Form Used in this Work. Location of. Style and Size of Lettering to Use in. Complete Explanation of the Bill of Material Form to be Used. How to Call for Standard Parts. Materials, Abbreviations of, in Bill of Material. 68. Numbering and Indicating the Size of Drawings 103 Purpose of. Sizes Most Generally Used. Size of Paper for Mechan- ical Drawings in this Work. Numbering of Drawings in this Work. 69. Part Numbers on a Drawing 104 Purpose and Location of. Layout of Part Numbers Used in this Work. 70. Recording Patterns on a Drawing 104 Purpose and Method of Numbering Patterns. Method of Selecting and Recording Pattern Numbers to be Followed in this Work. 71. Time Keeping in Drawing 105 Method and Purpose of, in Practice. System of, in this Work. 72. Border Lines 106 Location and Purpose of. To Lay Out Border Lines in this Work. 73. To Fasten the Paper or Tracing Cloth to the Board 107 Method of Procedure. Location of Paper and Tracing Cloth on the Board in this Work. 74. To Make a Pencil Drawing 108 General Instructions. Systematic Procedure and Specific Instruc- tions in this Work. 75. Inking Drawings no To Prepare the Pencil Drawing for Inking. Inspecting the Ruling Pen and "Charging" it with Ink. To Keep the Ruling Pen Working Satisfactorily. General Instructions for. Faulty and Ragged Lines. Drawing Ink not to be Blotted. Ink-bottle Holders. Specific Instructions for Inking Drawings in this Work. 76. Checking Drawings 113 Importance of Efficient Checking. General Discussion on. Specific Instructions for. 77. Tracing 114 A Tracing, Defined. Use of a Tracing. How to Make a Tracing. Moisture Spoils Tracing Cloth. To Clean Tracing Cloth. Erasures on a Tracing. 78. Blueprints 1 16 How Made. Changes on. CONTENTS xv SET OF MECHANICAL DRAWING EXERCISES SEC. PAGE 79. Drawing C-ioi n6 Detail Drawings of Lathe Spindle, Key, Fiber and Steel Washer, and of Special Nut (see Fig. 82, page 1 1 8). General and Specific In- structions for Making. 80. Tracing Drawing C-ioi 121 General and Specific Instructions Given. 81. Blueprint of Tracing C-ioi 121 Purpose of Making. Specific Instructions Given. 82. Drawing C-I02 122 Detail Drawing of Lathe Leg. (See Fig. 85, page 123.) 83. Drawing C-i<>3. 124 Detail Drawing of Lathe Bed and Bracket. (See Fig. 88, page 125.) 84. Drawing C-IO4 126 Drawings of Bolts, Nuts and Screws, the Proportions of which are De- termined by the Student from Empirical Formulas Given in the Text. (See Fig. 89, page 128.) 85. Tracing Drawing C-I02 129 86. Tracing Drawing C-ioa 129 87. Drawing C-ios 129 Detail Mechanical Drawings made from Sketches of the following Lathe Parts: Tail Stock Center, Shell, Tail Stock Spindle and Tail Stock Spindle Clamp. 88. Drawing C-io6 130 Assembly Drawing of Lathe Tail Stock Complete, Built Up from Draw- ings or Sketches of Each of the Parts Composing it. 89. Tracing Drawing C-io6 130 90. Examination on Chapter III r 130 CHAPTER IV. FREE-HAND WORKING SKETCHES. 91. Introductory 131 Value of Free-hand Sketches. Some Uses of Free-hand Sketches. 92. Free-hand Copies of Working Drawings 131 Purpose of Making. 93. Free-hand Sketches from Objects 132 Working Sketch, Defined. Importance of Making Sketches Correct. Discrimination in Selecting and Placing Dimensions on Sketches. Proportioning Sketches by the Eye and without Direct Measurements. To Make an "Eye Estimate" of a Distance. 94. Making Sketches from Memory 134 Good Method of. 95. The Free-hand Pencil Line i34 The First Essential. Specific Instructions for Making. Drawing a Horizontal Free-hand Line. Drawing a Vertical Free-hand Line. Manipulating the Pencil. To Draw a Curved Free-hand Line. XVl CONTENTS SEC. PAGE 96. Free-hand Inked Line 136 Penciled Work to First be Correct. Specific Instructions for Drawing a Free-hand Inked Line. Effects of too Much and too Little Ink on the Pen. Care of Pen. 97. Building up a Sketch 137 Determining on the Views. To Begin a View. Building up and Completing a Sketch, General Method of. 98. Title Form on Small Sheets 138 Title Form on Sketch Sheets in this Work. Style of Lettering in. 99. Size and Numbering of Sketch Sheets 139 Standard for this Work. SET OF FREE-HAND DRAWING EXERCISES 100. Sheet No. i 139 Free-hand Sketches of Lathe Shim, Small Stud, and Clamp Stud (see Fig. 97, page 140). General and Specific Instructions. 101. Sheet No. 2 141 Sketch of Main Casting of Lathe Headstock (see Fig. 99, page 143). Specific Instructions. 102. Sheet No. 3 142 Sketches of Lathe Face Plate, Tail Stock Center, and Special Nut. (See Fig. 104, page 145.) 103. Sheet No. 4 144 Sketches of Lathe Tail Stock Spindle and Shell. (See Fig. 105, page 146.) 104. Sheet No. 5 147 Sketches of Lathe Clamp Bolt, Hand Wheel and End Cap. (See Fig. 109, page 148.) 105. Sheet No. 6 147 Sketch of Lathe Clamp Copied from Model Sketch, the Dimensions for which are Obtained by Direct Measurement of the Clamp and which are Recorded on the Exercise Sketch. (See Fig. in, page 149.) 106. Sheet No. 7 150 Sketch of Lathe Tool Rest Support Slide and of Lathe Clamp for Tail Stock Spindle. These sketches are made directly from the objects themselves. 107. Sheet No. 8 ^o Sketch of Lathe Tail Stock Screw and of Tail Stock Nut. (See Fig. 1 16, page 151.) 108. Sheet No. 9 *S2 Sketch of Main Casting of Lathe Tail Stock. (See Fig. 119, page 153.) 109. Sheet No. 10 *5 2 Sketches Made Directly from Lathe Bearing Cap and Stationary Flange. no. Sheet No. u X S 2 Sketch of Lathe Cone Pulley Made on Plain Paper (not Cross-section Paper) and Directly from the Part Itself. in. Sheet No. 12 J 5* Copying a Sketch of the Pattern and Core Box of Lathe Cone Pulley. (See Fig. 122, page 155.) CONTENTS XVli SEC - PAGE 112. Inking Sheet No. i I54 This exercise gives practice in making free-hand inked straight lines. 113. Inking Sheet No. 2 z ^ This exercise gives practice in making free-hand inked curved lines. 114. Inking Sheet No. n z ^ 4 This exercise gives practice in inking on ordinary unruled paper. 1 15. Examination on Chapter IV z 54 CHAPTER V. ISOMETRIC DRAWING AND SKETCHING. 116. Introductory z ^6 General Discussion of the Subject of Isometric Drawing. Some Uses of Isometrics. Advantages and Disadvantages of Isometric Drawings. 117. Principles I57 Statement of Important Principles on which Isometric Drawing is Based. 118. Isometric Drawing of a Cube 157 Method of Constructing. 1 19. Definitions 158 Definition of Isometric Axes, Isometric Origin, an Isometric Line, and a Non-isometric Line. How Measurements must be Made in Iso- metric Drawing. 120. Isometric Drawing of a Circle 159 Method of Constructing. Definition of "Construction Lines" and ' ' Isometric Posi tion . " 121. Approximate Method of Making an Isometric Drawing of a Circle. 160 122. Isometric Drawing of a Plane Figure Composed of Straight and Curved Lines 160 General Method of Constructing. 123. Isometric Drawing of a Cube Cut by a Plane 161 General Method of Constructing. 124. Isometric Drawing of Wall 162 With Axes in Ordinary Position. With Axes Reversed. 125. Isometric of a Cylinder 163 Method of Constructing. 126. Isometric of Screw Thread 163 Method of Showing "Conventional" Isometric Thread. 127. Hollow Cylinder with a Quarter Section Removed 164 Isometric Drawing of Lathe Spindle Taken as an Example. 128. Offset Construction in Isometric Drawing 164 129. Isometric Drawing of a Sphere 165 General Method of Constructing. Isometric Drawing of a Half Sphere; of One-eighth of a Sphere. 130. Isometric Drawing of Lathe Cap 166 General Method of Constructing. 131. Size and Numbering of Sketch Sheets 166 Isometric-ruled Paper. Xviii CONTENTS SET OF FREE-HAND ISOMETRIC EXERCISES SEC. PAGE 132. Sheet 1 167 Isometric Sketch of Tool Rest Support Slide for Lathe (see Fig. 138, page 1 68). General and Specific Instructions. 133. Sheet II 169 Isometric Sketches of Lathe Key, Shim, Stud, Washer and Special Nut. (See Fig. 144, page 170.) 134. Sheet III 171 Isometric Drawing of Lathe Collar and Bearing, the drawing and all dimensions made by reference to the objects themselves. 135. Sheet IV 171 Isometric Drawing of Lathe Spindle, the drawing to be inked and made from observation of the object itself. 136. Sheet V 172 Isometric Drawing of Lathe Cap. 137. Sheet VI 172 Isometric Drawings of Lathe Shelf-Bracket. (See Fig. 150, page 173.) 138. Examination on Chapter V 174 APPENDIX A. Drawing Room System 140. Commercial Drawing Rooms 175 Some System Usually Required. Value of Systematically Carrying on this Work. General Method of Procedure. Sizes of Drawings. Position of Sheet or Drawing on the Board. Border Lines. Number- ing and Lettering of Sheets and Drawings. Title-Form and Its Loca- tion. Bill of Material and Its Location. Style of Lettering. Con- ventions and Abbreviations. INDEX 179 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING CHAPTER I SELECTION, CARE AND USE OF DRAWING INSTRU- MENTS AND MATERIALS i. Introductory. The accuracy and finish of mechanical and geometrical drawings, as well as the speed with which the drafts- man works, depend to a very large extent upon the quality of instruments used. To secure the best results the most experienced draftsman requires instruments of a first-class quality, and as the beginner needs all the assistance possible, he should not handicap himself by using instruments of an inferior grade. Since, in this work, a knowledge is required of what goes to make up instruments of a first-class quality, such knowledge should be gained before purchases are made, in order that the fullest benefits may be obtained. Thus unsatisfactory work, in so far as it results from the use of inferior instruments and supplies, can be avoided. The quality of an instrument must not be judged entirely by its cost, but by its design, accuracy of workmanship, and the materials from which it is made. Some of the more costly in- struments are designed for extreme accuracy of adjustment, and are so delicate in mechanical construction that ordinary usage soon renders them less accurate than the cheaper but more sub- stantial makes. Hence, in selecting instruments it is best to avoid those of extremely delicate construction, for as a rule instruments of simple design prove most satisfactory, especially for beginners. The best of instruments, however, will soon deteriorate and become unsatisfactory unless properly cared for, and the beginner is especially urged to cultivate the habit of seeing that his instru- ments are always kept in the best shape possible. OF DRAWING In the following paragraphs instruments are briefly described and the essential points which determine their superiority are noted. Before purchasing instruments read the first portion of each item referred to in the following paragraph and, if possible, consult with some experienced person as to the names of reliable makers of instruments and supplies. 2. List of Instruments and Supplies Necessary for the Com- plete Course: Drawing Paper (M)*. 10 sheets of drawing paper accurately cut to 12" X 18" and punched. (See page 4, 3.) Ruled Paper (L), (S). (a) 36 sheets 8" X loj" standard punched (for #10 Manila cover), extra heavy weight cross-section paper, ruled on one side only with lines " apart and every eighth line heavy. (See page 5, 4.) (b) (S) 6 sheets 8" X ioj" standard punched extra heavy weight isometric paper ruled on one side only. (See page 5, 4.) Tracing Cloth (M). 4 yards i8|"-wide tracing cloth of best quality. (See page 6, 6.) Blue-print Paper (M). J yard 36" wide slow acting blue- print paper of best quality. Not to be purchased until required. (See page 6, 7.) Drawing Boards (M). (a) i pine drawing board 19" X 26". (See page 7, 8.) (b) (L), (S). i well seasoned pine board 10" X 12" X T V thick. Thumb Tacks (A), i dozen thumb jfe^cks with small round heads about fV" diameter. (See page 8,' 9.) T-Square (M). i T-square with solid head and polished surfaces. Blade 26" long and preferably having edges lined with transparent strips. (See page 8, 10.) Triangles (M). (a) i 7" transparent triangle, 45. (See page 10, n.) (b) i 10" transparent triangle, 3o-6o. (See page 10, ii.) Irregular Curve (M) i transparent irregular curve. Similar to K. & E. #21 or Dietzgen #20. (See page 13, 12.) " The instruments or materials marked (L) are required in lettering; (M) in mechanical drawing; (S) in sketching; (A) in all courses. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 3 Pencil Pointer (A), i medium-cut file (see page 14, 13) or a small pad of fine sandpaper. Pencils (A), (a) i 4.H pencil of hexagon cross section. (See page 14, 14.) (b) (M) i 6H pencil of hexagon cross section. (See page 14, 14.) Erasers (A), (a) i block of " Artgum " or a sponge rubber. (See page 16, 15.) (b) Faber's (or equivalent) soft green "Emerald" eraser. (See page 16, 15.) Erasing Shield (A), i metal or celluloid erasing shield. (See page 17, 16.) Soapstone (A). Small piece of soapstone. (See page 18, 17.) Drawing Ink (A), i bottle of black waterproof drawing ink- (See page 18, 18.) Pens (A), (a) i each of D. Leonardt & Co.'s #506 F. and 516 E.F., ball-pointed pens, (b) i each of Gillott #170 and #303; i Esterbrook #182 and i Spencerian #i. (See page 18, 19.) Penholders (A), (a) i penholder for ball-pointed pens. (See page 20, 20.) (b) i penholder for ordinary pens. Cork- tipped holders preferred. Drawing Instruments (M). i set of drawing instruments of good design and quality, consisting of at least the following: (a) Ruling pen, 5" instrument of best quality. (See page 20, 21.) (b) Compass, 5", pivot-jointed instrument (see page 23, 22) with handle, lengthening bar, detachable pencil and pen legs. (c) Dividers, 5" instrument with hair-spring adjustment. (See page 26, 23.) (d) Bow dividers having a maximum capacity of ij" radius. (See page 27, 24.) (e) Bow pencil having a maximum capacity of ij" radius. (See page 27, 25.) (f) Bow pen of best quality and having a maximum capacity of i|" radius. (See page 28, 26.) (g) Case for set of drawing instruments. Scale (M), (S). i architect's 1 2-inch triangular boxwood drawing scale, graduated as follows: |", i", f", |", f", i", ij", 2", 3", 4", and one " edge " graduated in inches and sixteenths of an inch. (See page 29, 27.) 4 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING Protractor (M). Not absolutely necessary in this course. (See page 31, 28.) Machinist's Calipers (S). (a) i pair 6" outside spring-cali- pers. (See page 32, 29.) (b) i pair 6" inside spring- calipers. Machinist's Scale (S). i 2-foot length machinist's scale. Not absolutely necessary in this course. (See page 32, Fig. 36.) Machinist's Dividers (S). i pair 6" machinist's dividers. Not absolutely necessary in this course. (See page 33, 29.) Blotter, i ordinary 4" X 9" blotter. (See page 33, 30.) Pen Wiper (A), i piece of linen cloth about 9" X 9". (See page 33, 30.) Instrument Cleaner (A), i piece of cotton cloth about 1 8" X 1 8" for brushing off drawings and cleaning instruments. (See page 33, 30.) Manila Covers (L), (S). 3 standard (#10) Manila covers. Paper Fasteners (A), i dozen #3 brass paper fasteners with washers. Carbonate of Soda (M). Small quantity of soda for making changes on blue-print paper. 3 . Drawing Paper. In selecting paper to use for any particular drawing, the character of the work and the purpose for which the drawing is to be made are the determining factors. In general a good drawing paper should be tough, strong, and of uniform thickness. It should not become brittle or discolored with age, and should not wrinkle nor warp during changing weather. The surface should stretch evenly and admit of con- siderable erasing without injury. For inked drawings, the surface of the paper selected should neither repel nor absorb liquids. If the paper repels ink the lines will be irregular and uneven. An illustration of this is seen if an inked line is drawn on oily paper. If the paper absorbs ink, the line will spread and resemble a line drawn upon blotting paper. For pencil drawings, paper with an unpolished surface should be selected, since it will take a pencil mark more readily than paper with a polished surface and does not require the same care in making erasures. There is little difference in DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS the two sides of good drawing paper, but the side from which the "water-mark" reads correctly is meant to be the working side. A cheap grade of Manila paper will do for such pencil work as .shop drawings, preliminary sketches, drawings to be traced, and in general all drawings not requiring extreme accuracy nor intended to be of permanent value. A better grade of paper should be used for work of a more exacting character. Whatman paper is used extensively for making permanent ink drawings. There are two grades suitable for this purpose; namely, hot pressed and cold pressed. The hot pressed (marked H.P.) has a smooth surface, and is used principally for fine-line drawings. The cold pressed (marked N. to signify not hot pressed, and sometimes marked C.P.) is used extensively for tinted and water-color work. 4. Ruled Paper. In the study of free-hand lettering and in sketching, the beginner can save much time and secure greater accuracy by using specially ruled paper, the advantage being that proportion can be obtained without the aid of measuring instruments. Fig. i (a) shows cross-section ruling, the small squares being one-eighth inch, and every eighth line is extra heavy so that the one-inch squares stand out promi- nently. This paper is used in ordinary sketch- ing, etc. (a) Cross-Section Ruling. (b) Isometric Ruling. Fig. i. Ruled Paper. Fig. i (b) shows isometric ruling, which is used in making isometric perspective sketches. Care must be exercised in cleaning drawings made on cross- section paper, as cleaning with either the eraser or the "artgum" tends to dim the section lines and thus spoil the work. Make all lines light weight and with a medium soft pencil then retrace the lines that are to be permanent and clean the drawing. This method insures the least amount of erasing. 6 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING 5. Tracing Paper. Tracing paper is a thin, transparent paper which is used for making tracings that are usually (but not always) to be of a temporary character. It is cheaper than tracing cloth, but inferior to it in permanency. Blue prints made from drawings on tracing paper require longer exposure and are not so distinct as those made from drawings on tracing cloth. 6. Tracing Cloth. Tracing cloth is a specially prepared linen, having one side finished with a smooth glazed surface and the other dull finished. Either side will take ink and there is a differ- ence of opinion among draftsmen as to which is the better side to work on. The glazed side is better for lettering and free-hand work in general, as there is less tendency to catch the pen point and cause blotting; also, since the glazed coating holds the ink and keeps it from soaking into the fibers of the cloth, it is easier to erase ink from this side. The chief disadvantages are that the glazed side does not take the ink quite so readily; also the tracing tends to curl up when the inking has been done on the glazed side. The dull side takes ink more easily, and if any lines are to be penciled directly on the cloth (as in making alter- ations, additions, etc.) the rough surface of the dull side takes these lines more readily. For the same reason the dirt collects from the triangles and T-square. The glazed side is recom- mended for beginners and with experience the draftsman will determine his preference. In cutting the tracing cloth (called for in the list of neces- sary supplies) into sheets for use, see that each sheet is large enough to permit of cutting off the margin containing the thumb tack holes when the tracing is finally trimmed to the standard size (12" X 18"). Also, in cutting the cloth, care must be exer- cised to avoid breaking its surface, as creases and broken places render the cloth unfit for use. Only a good quality tracing cloth should be used. * 7. Blue-print Paper is a specially prepared paper, having one side coated with chemicals which are sensitive to light and which will turn a rich permanent blue after the paper has been exposed DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 7 to the light and washed in clean water. Blue-print paper is seldom prepared in the drafting room since it can be bought cheaper in the open market. A formula for preparing blue-print paper is as follows : 2\ ounces Red Prussiate of Potassium in i pint of water. 4 ounces Citrate of Iron and Ammonia in i pint of water. Dissolve thoroughly and filter; then mix and apply evenly on one side of the paper with a sponge or a broad, thin brush. The paper must be prepared in a dark place and must be stored in a dark dry place. 8. Drawing Boards. A drawing board should be made of a light weight material which is not greatly affected by changes of weather, and which will take the thumb tacks easily and hold them securely. Also, the board should be designed to allow for, or resist as far as possible, any change in shape due to warping or handling. The best material for a drawing board is thoroughly seasoned, soft, white pine, free from knots or pitch. The best design depends largely on the size of the board. The board recommended for use in this work, both as to design and size, is shown in Fig. 2. This board consists of a Fig. 2. Ordinary Drawing Board. central portion or " body," in which part the grain should run lengthwise, and " end strips " so placed that the grain runs at right angles to that of the body. The body and end strips are united by a glued tongue and grooved joint. In some instances the end strips are made of hard wood in order to better resist warping or being nicked in handling. This construction will resist excessive warping in & ELEMENTS OF DRAWING small boards, but the larger sizes are usually made with a pair of hard-wood ledges screwed or dovetailed to the back, and in addition there is a series of saw grooves cut lengthwise on the back of the body of the board. The drawing board should be covered with a light coat of shellac to protect it from moisture and to keep it clean. The top surface is termed the working face (see Fig. 2, page 7), and should be a perfectly smooth plane. The left-hand edge is termed the working edge, because it acts as a guide for the T-square head. The working edge should be perfectly straight and smooth and free from nicks. The straightness of the working edge should be tested occasionally by placing a standard straightedge, or the edge of a T-square blade which is known to be perfectly straight, along it to see if the two coin- cide throughout. 9. Thumb Tacks. For all ordinary work the drawing paper or tracing cloth is secured to the drawing board with thumb tacks. These tacks are inexpensive and only the best should be used. A good form is shown in Fig. 3- The tack should be small and the outer edge of the " head " should be thin so as not to inter- ^ \r"'^**' f ere with the free use of the T-square and triangles; i as a rule, small thumb tacks are preferable, say T 6 g " Fig. 3. ordinary diameter. One tack^ should be used at each corner of the sheet, and if the drawing of tracing is large, enough thumb tacks should be placed along the edges to hold the paper or cloth securely on the drawing board. Tracing especially can be done much more rapidly if the cloth fits closely to the paper drawing. 10. T-Squares. The T-square derives its name from its resem- blance to the letter T and from its use in " squaring " the paper on the drawing board. It is intended primarily to serve as a ruling edge in drawing horizontal lines (that is, lines perpendicular to the working edge of the drawing board), and to provide an edge for guiding the triangles in drawing vertical or inclined lines. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 9 In its simplest form (see Fig. 4) the T-square consists of a thin "blade" securely fastened at right angles to a thicker and shorter piece termed the " head." Fig. 4. Ordinary T-Square. In a more elaborate design the head is pivoted so that it can be adjusted and fastened at any angle with the blade. This arrangement enables the draftsman to use the working edge of the drawing board to guide the T-square in drawing a series of parallel lines that are not perpendicular to that edge. While this "swivel head" is sometimes an advantage, it is not neces- sary for ordinary use and the design shown in Fig. 4 is recommended. T-squares are made of wood, rubber and metal, the most satis- factory being made of wood and having the edges of the blade lined with a narrow strip of transparent amber or celluloid. The blade should be as long as the drawing board, and it is desirable to have the blade and the head exactly at right angles in order that the lines drawn with the T-square will be at right angles to the working edge of the drawing board. This, however, is not absolutely necessary, for if the working edge is straight and the T-square is properly used, the lines are always drawn with reference to the working edge of the board, and are there- fore parallel, and the drawing will be accurate. The T-square should be polished or given a coat of shellac in order that dirt may not adhere to its surface; for unless the blade is perfectly clean it will soon soil the drawing in rubbing over it. To test the straightness of the working edge, use a pencil having hard lead sharpened to a fine chisel edge (see page 15, 14) ; hold it against the working edge of the T-square and draw a line the full length of the blade. Turn the blade over (i.e., revolve about the lines just drawn) so as to bring the opposite side against the paper, and if the working edge does not coincide with 10 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING the line throughout its entire length, this edge is not "true." The inside edge of the T-square head may be tested by apply- ing any standard straightedge to it. Care must be taken that the blade is not loosened, and that the working edges are perfectly straight and free from nicks. The T-square must not be used to hammer thumb tacks into place, and the top or working edge of the blade must never be used to guide the knife in cutting paper or tracing cloth, as the smallest nick will disfigure all lines drawn by the aid of that portion of the blade. The lower edge of the T-square, however, may be used as a straightedge for trimming drawings or cutting paper. To use the T-square, hold it near the center of the head with the left hand, and, with a steady but unstrained grip, slide the inner face of the head along the working edge of the drawing board until the top edge of the blade is in the proper position for drawing the line or guiding the triangle. The lower edge of the blade should never be used in this way, as it may not be parallel to the working edge, and as a result all lines drawn would not be parallel. The habit should be cultivated of "feeling" that the T-square is in perfect contact before drawing a line. That is, the head should set firmly against the working edge of the drawing board and the blade should lie perfectly flat on the drawing. ii. Triangles. Triangles are used as a guide for the ruling pen or the pencil in drawing lines at an angle to the T-square blade. All the angles of a triangle must be true and its edges straight and free from nicks. The material of which it is made should not warp easily, or show tendency to gather and hold dust; it should be light enough to be easily handled and hard enough to hold its edge under use. Triangles are made of wood, rubber, amber, celluloid, or metal. Metal triangles are accurate and durable, but are difficult to handle, and if dropped on a drawing the corners puncture the surface. Those made of wood are cheap and light in weight, but warp easily and are hard to keep clean. The triangles made of transparent amber or cellu- loid meet most of the requirements of a first-class instrument DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS n and are to be preferred. An additional advantage is that, due to their transparency, the draftsman is enabled to see work already completed although it may be covered with the triangle. The triangles most generally used are the 45 [see Fig. 5 (a)] and the 3o-6o, or what is generally called the 60, triangle [see Fig. The most desirable size of tri- angle to use depends largely on the work to be done, but the working edges should be long (a) 4 ' 5 o Tdangle ; (b > 6o o' Triangle> enough not tO require Working Fig. 5.- Ordinary Triangles. too close to the corners, since they become rounded with use and are therefore inaccurate. Accuracy in triangles is of the greatest importance and they should be tested when purchased as well as occasionally thereafter, as they may lose their accuracy by use. In testing the accuracy of the triangles, use a 6H pencil with lead sharpened to a fine chisel edge. (See page 15, 14). All edges of the triangle should be first tested for straightness by holding them against an accurate straight- edge, or by the method given for testing the T-square blade (see page 9, 10) and then the angles should be tested. To test the 90 angle for accuracy, place one of the short sides of the triangle against the working edge of the T-square blade and, with the chisel edge of the pencil held close to the triangle, draw a vertical line. Next turn the triangle over (i.e., revolve it about the line just drawn) so as to bring the opposite side against the paper, and, using the same edge as a guide for the pencil, draw a second vertical line through a point at either ex- tremity of the first line. If these two lines do not coincide throughout, the 90 angle is not accurate. To test the 45 angle for accuracy, place one of the short edges of the triangle against the working edge of the T-square blade, and, using the longest edge of the triangle as a guide for the pencil, draw a line. Next turn the triangle over so as to bring the opposite side against the paper, and revolve it until the second short edge is against the working edge of the T-square blade, and, again using the long edge of the triangle as a guide for the pencil, 12 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING draw a second line through a point at either extremity of the first. If the two lines do not coincide throughout, the 45 angle is not accurate. To test the 30 and 60 angles for accuracy, draw a horizontal line with the T-square, then place the shortest side of the tri- angle against the working edge of the T-square blade, and, using the longest edge as a guide for the pencil, draw a line to intersect the first line. Next turn the triangle over (i.e., revolve it about the line drawn) so as to bring the opposite side against the paper; with the same short side against the T-square, again use the longest edge as a guide for the pencil, and construct a triangle by drawing a third line to intersect the other two. If all three sides of the triangle drawn are not of equal length, the 30 and 60 angles are not accurate. Fig. 6 shows the method of using the triangle in connection with the T-square, the left hand manipulating and holding the triangle and the T-square. The draftsman should arrange his work so as to avoid being in a strained position, and the light should come from a direction that will not cause the T-square and triangle to cast a shadow along the edges being used as a guide to the pen or pencil. Fig. 6. Using the Triangle in Connection with the T-square. Fig. 7. Exact Angles that can be drawn, using Triangles and T-Square. Fig. 7 shows the angles that can be accurately drawn by using the 60 and 45 triangles and T-square. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS A triangle should not be used alone in drawing lines parallel or at a given angle with one another, but should be guided by the working edge of the T-square or another triangle. Fig. 8 shows the method of drawing parallel lines, using one triangle as a guide for the other. In a sim- ilar manner the T-square blade , , . Fig. 8. Drawing Parallel Lines using one Can also be USed as a gUlde Triangle as a guide to another. for the triangle to draw a series of parallel lines at any angle. 12. Irregular Curves. The irregular or French curves are used as a guide to the pen or pencil in drawing curved lines that cannot be conveniently or accurately made with the compasses. French curves are made of the same materials as triangles, and the remarks on materials for triangles, therefore, apply to French curves (see page 10, 11). They may be had of many different shapes, but those shown in Fig. 9 probably have the widest use. To use the French curve, locate a series of points on the line to be drawn, and carefully sketch a very light free-hand pencil line through them; next place the French curve so that its edge coincides with the longest segment of the free-hand line possible, and draw this segment of the line by using the edge of the curve as a guide. The French curve is then shifted to coincide with another part of the line and the process repeated until the entire curve is drawn. Great care must be taken that the segments are well joined and that the entire line appears uniform and continuous. In inking such a curved line, the blades of* the pen must at all times be tangent to the curve; otherwise the line will not be of uniform width. In drawing an irregular curve, especially when inking, it is best to first leave a slight break between segments and then, by a separate operation, join all segments so that the curve is continuous and the joined points do not show. Fig. 9. Ordinary Irregular (French) Curves. 14 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING 13. Pencil Pointer. A small medium cut file, with the end flattened to an edge and curved (see Fig. 10), serves the double purpose of a tack lifter and pencil pointer. Fig. 10. -Combination Pencil Sharpener J n US i n or the file it should be and Tack Lifter. frequently tapped to remove the lead filings. While filing the lead or tapping the file, care must be taken that the filings do not fall on and smear the drawing. 14. Lead Pencils. The essential qualities of a good pencil depend somewhat on the work to be done, but the lead should always be smooth and free from grit, making a clear-cut, distinct mark as sharp as an inked line, yet one which can be easily and completely erased. To meet all requirements lead is made in different degrees of hardness, and the grade selected will depend upon the kind of work to be done and the nature of the surface on which the drawing is made. Should the lead be too soft, the lines will smear, especially if the drawing is subjected to con- siderable handling; whereas if the lead is too hard, considerable pressure on the pencil point is necessary to make a visible line. This indents the paper, anot erasing and changing of such lines are difficult and unsatisfactory. Manufacturers usually indicate the degree of hardness of the lead in a drawing pencil by the capital letter H, which is repeated as often as necessary; thus, an H pencil is the softest, then comes HH, then HHH, etc. The HHHH (called 4H) pencil is a satisfactory grade for such work as putting in dimensions, arrowheads, lettering, making sketches, and in general for free-hand work. The 6H pencil is a satisfactory grade for making mechanical drawings. The degree of hardness of the lead in some cases is indicated by a number, beginning with No. i for the softest, the numbers progressing as the degree of hardness increases. Drawing pencils of either a hexagonal or round cross section are made but the hexagonal pencil is to be preferred since it is not so liable to roll off the drawing board. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS To do satisfactory work the pencil must be kept well sharpened, and it is important that the beginner learn the best method of keeping the pencil in condition. The lead may be given either the round "cone point" or the flat "chisel edge." Each of these forms has its particular use and it is often an advantage to have both ends of a pencil sharpened, one end having the cone point, the other the chisel edge. The cone point is used by many draftsmen for all ordinary drawing, and is absolutely necessary for lettering, dimensioning, locating points on a drawing, and all free-hand work. The following method of sharpening a pencil gives a point that will " stand up " well under use. With a sharp knife, make a long, sloping cut (about seven- eighths inch in length), removing sufficient wood to expose a cylinder of lead, say, about three- eighths inch long. (See Fig. n). Hold the pencil at an angle with the surface of a file (or a piece of fine sandpaper), and draw the lead across the rough surface, at the same time ro- tating the pencil in such a way that the lead is worn to a cone shape of the longest slope pos- sible, but do not file to a sharp point. Next raise the pencil to an angle of about 15 and file the end of the lead away until pointed. The pencil point should then appear as shown in Fig. 12. A few strokes across the file at frequent intervals will keep the pencil lead in good working condition, and the long slope of the lead saves cutting away the wood every time the pencil point is sharpened. The disadvantage of a cone point is that it wears away very rapidly, and to be kept in good shape must be frequently re- pointed. When a number of long, continuous lines are to be Fig. ii. Pencil sharpened to Lead Cylinder only. Fig. 12. Pencil Lead sharpened to Long Cone and to Point. i6 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING drawn, many draftsmen prefer to use a chisel edge (see Fig. 14). To form a chisel edge cut away the wood as explained above. Next hold the pencil so it will not rotate, and at such an angle that by drawing it across the file the lead is worn to a bev- eled surface of the longest slope possible. Do not file to the center of the lead before turning the pencil over to file a similar beveled surface on the reverse side (see Fig. 13). At this stage the pencil should not have a sharp edge. Next raise the pencil to an angle of about 15, and by moving back and forth, at the same time slightly rolling, file the tip on one side, and then on the other side, until a rounded chisel edge is produced. (See Fig. 14.) The lead point must never be moistened, as lead softens from mois- ture, and then produces Fig.i3. Pencil Lead sharp- a smeared line which ened to Rough Chisel Form t fe satisfactorily but not to Edge. (Front J and Side View.) erased. To put a chisel edge on the lead of the bow pencil or compass, fasten the lead in the instrument so that it projects about one Fi e- 14. Pencil Lead sharp- . . , . -. , . . ened to Working Chisel quarter of an inch, and file to a chisel edge Edge. (Side and Front as explained above, always keeping the edge View>) of the lead perpendicular to the radius of the instrument, that is, tangent to the arcs to be drawn. 15. Erasers and Erasures. Erasers are used for removing pencil or ink lines and for cleaning the drawing. The pencil eraser should be made of soft, fine-grained rubber, free from sand or grit, and of a texture that will not glaze, smear, or injure the surface of the drawing. The ordinary ink eraser is hard and gritty but should be flexible. Ink erasers often contain so much grit that they injure the surface of the drawing, and for this reason many draftsmen prefer a fine- grained, soft eraser that can be used for both pencil and ink erasing. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 17 For cleaning drawings sponge rubber, kneaded rubber, and " artgum " are used. The eraser should be entirely free from grit and soft enough to wear away rapidly, so that it will not mar or scratch the surface of the paper or injure the lines of the drawing and will constantly present a clean rubbing surface. In making an erasure, rub over the line with a light pressure until it disappears; then brush off the particles of rubber and paper with a clean rag so that the drawing will not become smeared. Beginners are liable to press too heavily when erasing, thinking thereby to save time. This should not be done as it injures the surface of the drawing. Neither should erasing be done so rapidly that the colored rubber heats and streaks the work. The surface of the drawing is liable to injury if a knife edge is used to scratch out lines. If the surface of the paper or cloth is injured in erasing, it can be improved by rubbing briskly over the injured area (which must be perfectly clean) with a smooth, hard surface (such as the bone handle of a pocket- knife) until the surface has become smooth. Soapstone may also be effectively used for this purpose. (See page 18, 17.) An eraser should be perfectly clean when used, and if the rubbing surface does not wear off fast enough to keep clean, the eraser end should be rubbed upon some clean spot of the draw- ing board until it is free from dirt. Never attempt to make an erasure on a drawing which is not securely fastened with thumb tacks, for if held down only with the fingers, the drawing frequently slips and it is liable to be spoiled by being creased or wrinkled. As little erasing as possible should be done when making a drawing to avoid injuring the drawing surface. 1 6. Erasing Shield. When erasing a line, letter, or dimension, care must be taken that the surrounding / ^ work is not injured. To prevent injury, thin sheets of flexible metal or transparent celluloid, provided with slots and holes of I c various shapes and sizes, are used to protect Fig . I5 ._ ordinary Erasing the drawing while making erasures over a Shield, limited area through these openings. Fig. 15 shows the ordinary 1 8 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING form of erasing shield. It is important that the shield always be kept clean on both sides, otherwise when using it the drawing is liable to become smeared. 17. Soapstone. Soapstone is a soft mineral (a compact, granular variety of talc) which gets its name because of its soapy feel. If the surface of paper or tracing cloth has been injured in erasing, it may be improved by rubbing soapstone over the injured portion and polishing with a clean, dry rag. 18. Drawing Ink. Drawing ink differs from the ordinary ink used for writing, in that it is heavier and has no penetrating qualities, but merely lies upon the surface of the paper or cloth. The requirements of a good drawing ink are that it will flow freely, dry readily, and will not gum; it must contain no chemicals that will have an injurious effect upon the instruments or paper, and it must be absolutely waterproof. To be waterproof means that the ink will not redissolve after drying, and the lines drawn with it will not become blurred or defaced when exposed to moisture. Drawing ink of practically any color can be obtained, but only black ink should be used in making working drawings unless there is some special reason for using inks of other colors. Red ink is used occasionally for making dimension lines, center lines, etc., but this is considered bad practice, as the ink becomes faded with age, and in the case of a tracing the lines will not be sufficiently opaque to print well. The use of bottled India ink is almost universal in modern drafting-room practice. Drawing ink gradually thickens due to evaporation and the bottle should therefore be kept tightly closed when not in use. When the drawing ink becomes too thick it may be thinned by adding a few drops of diluted ammonia or distilled water. If the stopper and filler are left out of the bottle, the ink will dry upon them, and the solid particles of dry ink will form small clots, which may be transferred to the pen and obstruct the free flow of the ink. 19. Ordinary pens. Four styles of pens are found in drafting rooms: (i) the ordinary writing pen with fine point; (2) the or- DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 19 dinary writing pen with stub point; (3) the ball-pointed pen; and (4) the crow-quill pen. The style of pen selected is largely determined by the width of the lines to be made. An expert draftsman can use the ordinary fine-pointed writing pen for almost all classes of work, but the beginner will find it easier to make relatively heavy lines with the stub-pointed or the ball- pointed pen. The ball-pointed pen is designed to glide smoothly in any direction and at the same time make a line of uniform width. It has little tendency to catch in the surface and splash the ink, and therefore permits of greater freedom in any direction and order of strokes when lettering or making free-hand lines. The crow-quill pen is not satisfactory for ordinary work, especially for tracing, as the tendency is to make the lines so fine that they will not reproduce in printing. A good general rule to follow in selecting a pen is that, when perfectly clean and carrying a reasonable quantity of ink, it will make a line of the desired width without requiring a pressure great enough to open the point. The pen selected is largely a matter of individual preference, and experience will soon dictate the best pen for the different kinds of work. Until the beginner has had sufficient experience to make an intelligent selection, only those pens called for in the list of supplies should be used. (See page 3, 2.) A new pen often gives trouble from two causes: (i) the flow of the ink may not be free and uniform; (2) the point may be stiff and catch in or scratch the surface. The coating of oil which has been put on the pen by the makers, to prevent rust- ing, is usually the cause of the ink's not flowing freely on a new pen. This oil can be removed by moistening and thoroughly wiping the pen several times, or by rubbing the pen with finely pulverized crayon or tracing-cloth powder. Dried ink on the pen point will also give trouble and for this reason the pen should be thoroughly cleaned each time before dipping for a new supply of ink. If the pen is stiff it may be improved by slightly drawing the temper. This is done by holding a lighted match to the point, care being taken not to overheat it. 1 20 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING If the pen point catches in or scratches the drawing it should be rounded by a few light strokes on an oilstone or on a piece of very fine emery cloth. A new pen always requires " breaking in " and for this reason an experienced draftsman will take as much care in preserving his pen as if it were one of his more costly instruments. Before putting the pen away always clean it thoroughly with a rag free from lint. Common writing ink should not be used on a pen intended for drawing, as it corrodes the pen and renders it unfit for further use with drawing ink. 20. Penholders. The penholder should hold the pen securely and firmly and should be of such a size and shape that the hand will not be cramped. Holders of small diameter are therefore unsatisfactory. The cork-tipped holder has the double advantage of being easy on the fingers and of absorbing moisture. 21. Ruling Pens. The simplest, and probably the best, form of ruling pen consists of two "blades" made of a single piece of metal and fastened to a handle, as shown in Fig. 16. In order to hold a fine edge the blades must be made of the best tempered steel. The inner blade (into which the screw is tapped) should be almost straight. The outer blade should be slightly curved, so that, when the points are together, there exists a cavity of sufficient capacity to hold enough ink to do a reasonable amount of work and not evaporate too rapidly as it would if the film of ink were very thin. The "nibs" must be even in length and terminate in a slightly rounded dinary Ruling point; they must have a moderately sharp edge, and must be broad enough not to wear away too rapidly. The handle should not be made of a material which breaks easily. The adjusting screws of all instruments should have an occasional application of light oil to prevent rusting. To adjust the pen, hold it toward the light, or over a piece of white paper, so that the space between the nibs can be seen; then DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 21 Fig. 17. Charging Ruling Pen with Ink. turn the thumb-screw until this distance is the width of the line to be drawn. To fill the pen (see Fig. 17), use the filler that is attached to the stopper of the ink bottle, and let the ink flow between the nibs until it is nearly one-quarter of an inch from the points. While filling the pen never hold it over the drawing as ink is often dropped during the process. After the pen has been filled, see if any ink has gotten on the outside of the nibs, and if so, wipe them off with a clean rag (seepage 33, 30). To use the pen (see Fig. 18), hold it with the thumb and the first two fingers, so that the thumb-screw is away from the body, and the pen perpendicular to the surface of the drawing. The third and fourth fingers should rest lightly on the triangle or T-square blade, to steady the hand and control the pressure of the pen against the drawing. This pressure and the speed at which the pen is moved along the ruling edge must not vary, Qr the ^ ^ ^ ^ uniform thrOUgh- out its length. The pen may be inclined slightly in the direc- tion in which the line is being drawn, so that, in moving, the point is pulled after the body of the pen; but under no condition should it be inclined in the opposite direction, making it necessary to push the point in advance of the body of the pen. Move the pen from left to right in drawing lines, which are horizontal or nearly so, from bottom to top in drawing lines which are vertical or nearly so, and in either direction (depend- ing upon the angle) in drawing inclined lines (see Fig. 10). Always hold the pen so that a Fi *- '9.- Direction m v/ J * which to draw Ruled line of the least width is drawn for a given set- Lines. ting of the nibs. In no case is the ruling pen to be used in making free-hand lines as this is liable to injure the nibs. Fig. 18. Using the Ruling Pen. 22 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING The blades of all pens must be kept absolutely clean, both inside and out, if good results are to be obtained. More unsatis- factory work results from the neglect of this precaution than from any other. No pen can be expected to make a good line when the blades are incrusted with dried ink. Ink corrodes the metal points, as shown by the magnified view in Fig. 20, and the pen is finally rendered unfit for use. As soon as the ink in the pen begins to thicken, pass a str *P ^ P a P er or c ^ ot ^ between the blades, and refill the pen; but never refill without first cleaning the inner surface of the blades. Fig. 20. To clean the inner surface of the blades, fold a piece Ruling Pen - , , A , , ' ., , . , Blade cor- of unglazed paper, or the rag penwiper, until thick spring the nibs slightly when passed between them. Draw the paper or cloth between the blades, from the screw to the tip, several times, or until it shows no ink, even after being moistened. (See Fig. 75, page no.) Besides frequently cleaning the pen while in use, the blades should be opened wide and given a thorough cleaning with the instrument wiper before it is put away. The points of the pen will wear dull after it has been used for some time, and in order to again make a clear-cut line they must be resharpened. To sharpen the ruling pen, first clean thoroughly and then close the blades until they nearly touch. This can be judged by properly holding the pen to the light or over a piece of white paper. Next, keeping the pen per- pendicular to the surface of a flat, close-grained oilstone, move back and forth until the nibs are " square " and of equal length. The nibs are then rounded to a radius of one thirty-second of an inch by ruling a line on the oilstone and continually Fig. 21. Rounding the Nibs of changing the inclination of the pen, the Pen. as shown in Fig. 21. This process dulls the edge of the points and they must then be sharpened by slightly opening the blades and rubbing the outer surface of the nibs on the oilstone. Care DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS must be taken that the rounded shape of the end is not altered; also a " wire edge " must not be produced, as this will cut the surface of the paper or tracing cloth. To test the condition of the pen, clean it thoroughly and draw a light and heavy inked line ; if both are not clear-cut and even, the pen requires attention. JOINT- SOCKET JOI 22. Compasses. The compass is used in drawing circles and arcs of circles. A complete com- pass outfit (see Fig. 2 2) consists of five parts: (i) the "headpiece"; (2) the "needle point"; (3) the "pencil leg"; (4) the "pen leg"; (5) the "extension bar." The instrument may be made of iron, brass, steel, aluminum, or German silver, the best being made of rolled (not cast) German silver. It is difficult to deter- mine the quality of German sil- ver by inspection, but the cast material can usually be detected by its high glossy finish. The de- sign of the compass should be such that the "head" and "knee joints" a allow free movement of the parts and at the same time give proper rigidity. They should be so designed as to exclude dirt and moisture and should fit accurately. Fig. 2 3 .-Head- Joint Design. The SQcket j oints should fit the shank accurately, hold the leg in proper alignment, and have a clamping device that will hold the interchangeable parts rigid. Fig. 23 shows the details of a good design for the head joint. Fig. 22. Compass Outfit Complete. ELEMENTS OF DRAWING TONGUE SLfT (a) Superior design. The legs are alike at this joint, and two pivoted screws are inserted in the yoke of the handle to hold the legs in position; small set screws prevent the pivoted screws from turning in the yoke. All contact surfaces are made circular, which insures a close fit for all positions of the legs, and thus excludes dirt and moisture. Several forms of socket joints are shown in Fig. 24, the design as shown in Fig. 24 (a) being the best. The hole is made circular and slightly tapered. The socket is split, and the clamping screw is lo- cated on the side. The handle of the compass is some- times designed so that no matter in what position the upper portion of the legs are set, it always keeps a central position relative to them, and conse- quently is approximately perpendicular to the surface of the drawing when the instrument is being used. This is an advantage unless the device is so deli- cately constructed that the wear and tear arising from ordinary use soon render the entire instrument valueless. The needle point consists of a finely tempered steel wire which fits into a cylindrical socket in the lower end of the attached leg. It should fit the socket with a snug, sliding fit, and be clamped with a thumbscrew. The lower end of the needle point (which enters the drawing) has a shoulder to support the weight and pressure on the instrument when in use and thus prevents a hole being bored in the drawing. Besides the knee joint and the shank of the pencil leg, the small, cylindrical, split socket that receives the lead, and the clamping device that holds the lead should be examined. The socket should be drilled accurately and of the proper size to receive the lead of an ordinary drawing pencil. The clamping device should exert a uniform pressure along the entire length of the socket and hold the lead secure and firm. The remarks on the design and care of the ruling pen (see page 20, 21) apply generally to the pen leg of the compass. (b) Inferior designs. Fig. 24. Socket-joint Designs. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS The extension bar is used to increase the range of the com- pass, by making it possible to draw circles of a larger diameter than can be drawn with the compass proper. Its design is determined by the design of the socket joint of the compass. The joints of instruments should have an occasional applica- tion of light oil to prevent rusting and insure easy working. To prepare the compass for use, insert the pen leg in the socket as far as it will go, and then clamp it securely in position. Ad- just the needle point so that the point of the pen and the shoulder of the needle are even when the compass is completely closed. The needle point is now adjusted for either pen or pencil and should not be changed. As the lead in the pencil wears away, making readjustment necessary, the position of the lead should be changed and not the needle point. The lead is usually sharpened to a chisel edge (see page 15, 14) which must be tangent to the arc it draws. It is adjusted by clamping the pencil leg in the instrument and adjust- ing the lead until the end is even with the needle point when the compass is completely closed. To draw a circle, bend both legs at the knee joints an equal amount, and enough to bring the marking point and the needle point each perpendicular to the Fig. 25. Using the Compass. surface of the drawing when the instrument is being used. This adjustment (see Fig. 25) places the needle point in such a position that it will make the smallest hole pos- sible in the drawing and | insures both nibs of the pen bearing evenly on the paper. The proper opening be- tween the points (the ra- dius) may be taken from the Fig. 26. -Setting or Reading the Instrument. measuring SCale, as shown in Fig. 26, or the extremities of the radius may be marked from 26 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING the scale directly on the drawing in their proper position and the compass set to them, the latter method being preferable as there is less chance of injury to the scale division marks. To use the compass hold the handle of the instrument lightly between the thumb and the first and second fingers; guide the needle point to the center of the circle by sliding it on a finger of the left hand; hold the compass so that both the marking and the needle points are perpendicular to the surface of the drawing and remain so while making the circle. Place the needle point at the center, and the marking point at the bottom of the g in circle, and with a slight pressure against the drawing rotate the compass right handed, that is, in the same direction as the hands of a clock move (never the reverse) by rolling the handle between the thumb and first finger. All inked arcs and circles should be made by one continuous revolution, and where any portion of a line is so thin or ragged as to require retracing, the entire line should be retraced. The compass should be manipulated with one hand, unless the lengthening bar is used, then the needle point should be steadied with one hand, and the marking point rotated with the other. 23. Dividers. The dividers (see Fig. 27) are used to transfer distances from one point to another, or to divide lines or circles into equal parts, but they should not be used to transfer measurements from the scale to the drawing when this process injures the division marks on the scale. See page 25, Fig. 26. Neither should the dividers be used where it is possible to lay off or measure distances accurately Fig. 27. or- with the drawing scale. See page 30, Fig. 32. iary Dividers. j n Design ne dividers are similar to the compass, and the main points considered with reference to the compass apply to the dividers (see page 23 , 2 2) . The legs of the dividers must be of the same length, and the steel points should be conical and sharp. One of the legs should be provided with a hair- DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS POINTS Fig. 28. Ordinary Bow Dividers. spring, controlled by a thumbscrew, to facilitate delicate adjustment. To divide, or step off, a line or circle, manipulate the dividers with one hand, and, with first one divider point and then the other as a center, rotate the dividers alter- nately to the right, then to the left as if describing a series of semicircles. To insure accuracy and neatness, the dividers should never be lifted entirely off the paper while being used, and the points should merely rest on the drawing and not puncture it. 24. Bow Dividers. The bow dividers (see Fig. 28) are used in the same manner and for the same purpose as the large dividers (see page 26, 23). The bow dividers when once set main- tain a fixed distance or radius and there- fore in "stepping off" distances they should be used in preference to the large dividers. The points to be observed in select- ing, using, and caring for the other bow instruments apply largely to the bow dividers (see 25, this page). 25. Bow Pencils. This instrument is practically a pencil compass of small radius. In making small arcs or circles it has the advantage of being easier to handle than the large compass, also in drawing several arcs or circles of the same diameter (as for example in repre- senting bolt holes, boiler tubes, fillets, corners, etc.) there is less liability that the distance between the points (that is the radius) will be changed in the handling of the instrument. The ordinary form of Bow Pencil is shown in Fig. 2Q(a). LEAD (a) Ordinary Design. Fig. 29. Bow Pencils. 28 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING The legs of the bow pencil should be made of one continuous piece of steel, finished and tempered ; the handle should be made of metal, as ivory and bone handles break too easily; the needle point should be made of tempered steel and should have a well- formed shoulder (see page 24, 22). The spring should be strong and stiff; the threaded parts cut smooth and true, and the adjusting screw capable of bringing the needle and lead points together. Another design of spring instruments [see Fig. 29 (b)] has a central thumbscrew and a right and left thread working in swivel sockets. The advantage claimed for this design is that the instrument can be set in one half the time required to set the instrument shown in Fig. 2 9 (a) . The disadvantages are that the radius is much more liable to change in handling, and the swivel sockets are necessarily delicate, easily injured and wear rapidly. The lead used is the same as for the compass, and it is sharpened and adjusted in the same manner (see page 25, 22), except for extremely small circles, when the lead should be sharpened to a conical point (see page 15, 14). To set the bow pencil shown in Fig. 2g(a), first (b) instrument with make an approximate adjustment by compress- Ce mg'f^-^T' in g the s P rin S with the fin S ers and settin S the Pencils. thumbscrew (this will minimize the wear on the adjusting screw thread); then make the final adjustment with the thumbscrew. The bow pencil is manipulated in the same manner as the compass (see page 25, 22). An important test of the bow pencil is to remove the lead and clamp a needle point in its place (the instrument now has two needle points); then close the instrument, and if the two points meet exactly, the sockets for the lead and for the needle point are accurately drilled and the instrument should do satisfactory work; otherwise work is liable to be inaccurate. 26. Bow Pens. The bow pen (see Fig. 30) is used to ink the circles and arcs that have been penciled with the bow pencil. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 29 Its advantages over the compass are the same as those of the bow pencil (see page 27, 25). The general requirements of the bow pen are about the same as those for the bow pencil, and the remarks on the care, use, and sharpening of the ruling pen apply to the bow pen (see page 20, 21). The edge of the pen should be tangent to the circle, being drawn so that a clear cut line of uniform width is made, and when the instrument is closed the needle point should touch the pen at the middle of the blade end. 27. Scales. The purpose of the scale is to make measurements on the draw- ing, and it should never be used as a straightedge for drawing lines. There are two drawing scales in gen- eral use: the civil engineer's, or, as it is usually called, the "engineer's scale/' and the mechanical engineer's, or the "architect's scale." These scales differ in the way their inch spaces are sub- divided. The engineer's scale divides the inch into such decimal parts as tenths, twentieths, thirtieths, etc., and is used in such work as map drawing, plotting stress diagrams, measuring indicator cards, and in certain government work. The architect's scale is graduated into duodecimals (twelfths), to correspond to the ordinary foot rule used by the workman in the shop; the duodecimal is divided into halves, quarters, eighths, sixteenths, thirty-seconds, etc., and the scale is used for making all drawings of objects which are to be dimensioned in the ordinary foot-rule denominations. This includes practically all mechanical drawings. The best scales are made of boxwood and have beveled edges lined with a white material resembling ivory. The division marks and figures are printed in black on this white background, and are very distinct and easy to read. There are two forms of scale in general use: the flat scale with beveled edges, and the NEEDLE POnVT Fig. 30. Ordinary Bow Pen. ELEMENTS OF DRAWING scale of triangular cross section. The latter form is shown in Fig. 31 and has the advantage of combining eleven distinct scale divisions on a single instrument. Scales are made of different lengths, but, in order to be provided with a full-size one-foot rule, the twelve-inch length (not counting the small spaces at each end, which are to protect the end grad- uations) is recommended. The numerals printed on these end Fig. 31. Ordinary Triangular Scale. spaces indicate the size of the scale along that bevel; thus the number ij on the end of the scale (shown in Fig. 31) denotes that this bevel is divided into spaces one and one-half inches long and is used to make drawings in which a length of i| inches represents i foot (12") of the object represented. The first inch and one-half length is subdivided into twelve equal parts, and each of these divisions represents one-twelfth of a foot, or one inch. The row of figures o, i, 2, 3, etc., indicates the divisions that represent i ft., 2 ft., 3 ft., etc. (measuring from the o mark), on a scale on which ij inches equal one foot. On some scales the length taken to represent one foot is so small that inches cannot be indicated. Thus, on the -/y scale the unit (sV) is divided into four parts, so that each of these sub- divisions represents one-fourth of one foot, or 3 inches, and the eye is relied upon to divide this space, representing 3 inches, into still smaller divisions. To use the scale in mark- ing off a distance, apply it to the drawing so that it lies flat on the surface (see Fig. 32) and in a position to receive Fig. 32. - Using the Scale. ^ best light poss ible on the division marks and numerals; then mark the points, defining the distance, with a 6H pencil sharpened to a fine cone point (seepage 15, 14). The scale is applied in a similar manner in measuring distances on a drawing. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 31 Care must be taken not to injure the sharpness of the edge of the scale or the division marks and numerals. Measurements should ordinarily be taken directly from the scale and not transferred from the scale to the drawing by means of a pair of dividers, especially if by so doing the scale divisions become defaced. Where it is necessary to set an instrument to a measurement, as for example the radius of an arc, the best method is to lay the scale on the paper and adjust the instrument along its edge, so as to avoid scratching or defacing the graduations on the scale with the points of the instrument. Where this method is not accurate, set the instrument as shown in Fig. 26, page 25. To mark off a number of consecutive measurements, such as 2", 5", i", and |", along any straight line, keep the scale station- ary, and, beginning at zero, mark off in succession the distances 2", 2 * + 5" = 7", 2" + 5" + i" = 8", and 2" + 5" + i" + y = 8J". By this method the length of the line is equal to the sum of the lengths of all its parts, and the accumulation of error which is likely to result from moving the scale along the line and mak- ing each measurement an independent operation is avoided. To test the accuracy of a scale, mark off the divisions to' be tested along a straight line. Reverse the scale, and if the sub- divisions do not coincide, the scale is inaccurate. 28. Protractors. The protractor is an instrument for measur- ing or laying off angles. It may be made of paper, celluloid, brass, German silver, or steel. The two latter materials are the most satisfactory. Fig. 33 illustrates the style of protractor in most general use, but more elaborate designs may be had. TO USe this protractor, place Fig. 33- -Ordinary Protractor. it so that the two zero marks coincide with the given line (produced if necessary), and the center (C) coincides with the vertex of the desired angle. The protractor is now in correct position for reading. If a line is to be drawn, making a desired ELEMENTS OF DRAWING angle with the given line, use a cone-pointed pencil (see page 15, 14) and mark a very fine point on the drawing just at the outer edge of the protractor and opposite the desired angle- division on the scale, and a line drawn through this point and the point C will make the desired angle with the original line. 29. Machinist's Calipers, Dividers, and Steel Rule. To make a drawing of any existing object, for example a machine, all of the principal dimensions must be obtained. These measure- ments should always be made with a two-foot rule or a ma- chinist's steel rule and not with the draftsman's scale. Apply the measuring rule as close to the part to be measured as possible. By use of the dividers and the calipers, measurements otherwise inaccessible can often be made. The best calipers and dividers are made of finely tempered steel and are provided with a spring nut (see Figs. 34, 35, and 38) which admits of rapid adjust- ment. The outside calipers (see Fig. 34) are used to determine the diameters of cylinders, the thick- ness of flat parts, etc., and the inside calipers (see Fig. 35) are used to determine the diameters of holes or other inside dimen- sions inaccessible to the scale. To insure accurate results, the calipers must always be held against the piece being measured in such a manner that the dimension desired will be a line which is the shortest distance between the points of the calipers. For example, to find the diameter of a cylinder, the calipers should be held in a plane perpendicular to the axis of the cylinder, and then adjusted until its points will just pass freely over the cylinder. To read the distance between the points of outside calipers, place one of the Fig. 34- Ordinary Outside Calipers. ig' 35- Ordinary Inside Calipers. Fig. 36. Reading the Outside Calipers. DRAWING INSTRUMENTS AND MATERIALS 33 points against the end of the rule and the other against the face, as shown in Fig. 36. To read the distance between the points of the inside calipers, place the end of the rule and one point of the calipers against a flat surface, as shown in Fig. 37. The dividers (see Fig. 38) can often be used to determine dimensions with a greater degree of ac- curacy than is possible with the rule. To make a measurement with the dividers, their points are adjusted to fit the Fig< 37 ._ Reading the Inside limits of the distance calipers, to be measured, and the points of the dividers are then applied to the steel rule, as shown in Fig. 26, page 25. Measurements that must be made extremely Fig. 3 8.- ordinary accurate cannot always be obtained satisfactorily Machinist's Dividers. w ith either the measuring instruments or by the methods of making measurements as described above. To measure accurately in hundred ths, thousandths, etc., of an inch, special instruments are used, the most common of which is the Micrometer; a discussion of this instrument, how- ever, is beyond the scope of this work. 30. Blotter, Penwiper and Instrument Rag. An ordinary blotter is often useful to the beginner to remove the top of a blot globule, but should never be used to blot the lines of the drawing. This dims the lines and tends to smear the work. A small linen rag should be kept handy for cleaning the ink off the pens. The instrument rag should be soft and free from lint. It is used in keeping instruments clean, but especially in removing dust and dirt from the triangles and from the T-square blade. If these instruments are not perfectly clean, they quickly soil the drawing in sliding over the surface. This rag should not be used to clean the ink off the pens. CHAPTER II LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 31. Introductory. Good lettering and dimensioning on work- ing drawings is of prime importance and cannot be too strongly urged. A drawing may be well made and correct in all its de- tails, but if the lettering be poorly done, the general appearance will be unsatisfactory and the value questionable. In most draw- ings the appearance is quite important, and in all it is desirable to secure the most pleasing effect possible. This does not mean that the lettering should be elaborate, or an effort made to secure artistic effects. There is no demand for such lettering on working drawings, but a style which is neat, well-appearing, easily read and easily made is required. The inclined Gothic alphabet, being free from unnecessary ornamental and superfluous features, fulfills all the requirements of lettering on engineering drawings and has been very generally adopted in practice. The ability to do good lettering with this style of alphabet depends only upon a degree of manual skill that any beginner can acquire by intelligent practice combined with careful obser- vation of the characteristics of the alphabet. 32. The Study of Lettering. Most beginners look upon free- hand lettering as a difficult but purely mechanical process. This is a serious mistake, and as a result progress is retarded and the work is uninteresting. The letters and numerals in the alphabets have been evolved through years of use, and unless the beginner studies their form and proportions and endeavors to reproduce them, he cannot hope to acquire the art of lettering. The outline and character- istics of each letter and numeral must be carefully studied and fixed in the mind. The beginner is greatly aided in learning the characteristics of the letters of the alphabet by so grouping 34 LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 35 them that comparisons can be made as to their points of sim- ilarity and difference; for example, groups could be made up as follows: (a) Letters composed entirely of straight lines. (b) Letters composed wholly or partly of curved lines. (c) Letters of the same width. (d) Letters of the same height. (e) Letters of similar outline. Thus, /, Z,, E, and F form a group of letters all of which begin with a line of " standard slope" (i.e., a line which has the same slope as the alphabet) and have parallel branches. The " bar " in both the E and F is exactly midway between the top and bottom of the letter, and its length is the same as its dis- tance from the top or bottom; it is more than one-half but less than three-fourths as long as the upper width of the letter. The top width of the E equals that of the F, but the lower width of the E is five units while the lower width of the L is only four and one-half units. The fact that E is wider at the bottom than at the top suggests another group, composed of E, B, K, Z, and X, all of which are wider at the bottom than at the top. The reason for making these letters wider at the bottom is to give an appearance of stability. If these letters are made the same width throughout, they appear top-heavy. The /, H, N, and M have parallel sides which have the slope of the alphabet and would not appear well if made wider at the bottom. There is a difference in the slope of similar sides of V and W, and neither contains a line of standard slope. Other groups that should be studied are O, Q, C, and G; P, R, and B; U and /; a, d, q, and so on. This method of studying the alphabet and compar- ing letters will develop a fine sense of proportion and will also train the eye to see form properly, both of which are essential not only in lettering but also in sketching and drawing. Ultimately the draftsman does not rely upon his memory for spaces, widths, heights, and proportions of the letters, but this sense of proportion enables the eye to judge the accuracy of the construction, the alignment of the letters, and the proper spacing while the letters are being formed, and lettering free-hand 36 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING is then no more difficult or tiresome than writing. Progress at the start will depend in a large measure upon the beginner's ability to criticize his own work and his willingness to correct all errors as soon as they are detected. If patience and thought are exercised from the start the be- ginner will soon acquire the ability to do good lettering and it will then take no longer to make well-formed letters than poorly- made ones. To make a critical study of lettering, note as follows : (a) Whether the tops and bottoms of the letters appear to be in line. (b) If the proper spacing has been maintained between letters, words, sentences, and lines of lettering. (c) If each letter has the proper slope. (d) If each letter has the proper proportion of height to width. (e) If the different lines composing each letter are the proper relative length and shape. It will be observed that the first thing to notice is whether the letters appear to be in line. In lettering, mathematical measure- ments will not always produce satisfactory results. On account of the sharp angles of such letters as A , V, W, and the curves of O, C, Q, G, they appear shorter than such letters as H, N, E, M, when made exactly the same height, and for this reason it is best to make them extend very slightly beyond the guide line in order to have them appear the same height. Also it often happens that a deviation from the standard width of letters is an advantage. Thus, an L followed by an A can be made nar- rower than if it were followed by an N or an H, or than if it were at the end of a word. 33. Slope of Letters. The vertical and the inclined alphabets are used in practice, but the inclined letters are usually preferred, since it is more difficult to make vertical letters appear uniformly regular. This is because the eye naturally compares the free- hand vertical lines of the letters with the mechanically made vertical lines of the drawing and consequently any slight im- perfection is noticeable. Also, to be correct and appear well, LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 37 the vertical letters must always be exactly vertical or at right angles with the bottom guide line, while with the inclined letters the exact angle of inclination is not of great importance as long as uniformity of inclination is maintained, and the draftsman may give his letters the slope that is easiest for him to maintain. While, as has been said, inclined lettering is usually preferred, there are many instances, however, where vertical lettering, if well done, is preferable. The slope to be used in this work is 2 to i, which corresponds to an angle of about 63^. To obtain a slope of two to one, lay off any convenient distance along a straight line and twice this distance on a second straight line erected at the right-hand end of and at a right angle with the first line. A third line joining the extreme outer ends of these two lines has the slope desired. The beginner should notice that the lines of the inclined alphabet which are drawn with a slope of two to one (that is, standard slope lines) correspond to the vertical lines of the vertical alphabet. 34. General Description of Model Letters. The illustrations in 38, page 44, and 41, page 51, show the correct propor- tions of the letter, and the written matter calls attention to certain important points to be kept in mind when forming the letter. To help in this work, " guide lines," " center lines," " dimension lines," and " direction arrows " are made use of. The stem of a letter is any portion of the outline which is straight and has the slope of the alphabet, this term being most commonly used in connection with the description of the small letters of the alphabet. The top and bottom guide lines limit the height of the letters and are an aid in keeping them in line. The side guide lines have the same slant as the alphabet. They limit the width of the letters, and aid in maintaining the proper slope. Center lines are used on letters having a form which can be divided more or less symmetrically by such lines; they also determine the points where certain letters are tangent to the guide lines. Center lines that are parallel to the top and bot- tom guide lines are called horizontal center lines; those having 38 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING the same slope as the alphabet are called standard slope center lines, and those having a slope other than that of the alphabet are called sloping center lines. A letter is built around a center line in somewhat the same manner as a sketch would be built about its center lines. (See page 137, 97.) Guide lines and center lines for lettering should be drawn con- tinuous or unbroken throughout their length, but very light, as they are erased as soon as the lettering is completed. The dimensions shown on the model letters will enable the beginner to study the relative ratio of width to height of let- ters and the relative proportions of the different lines forming the individual letters. (See page 45, 38.) The numbers appearing with the letter-dimension lines on the model indicate the units of space between the arrowheads. This unit is the length of the side of a small square of the sec- tion paper, and on the paper used for this work the length of a side is \ inch, so that 3 would indicate the length of three of the small squares, or f inch; 5 would indicate five squares, or f inch, etc. (See page 58, 44.) When the term standard slope is used in describing the model letters and numerals, it refers to a line of the letter having the same slope as the alphabet, which throughout this work is the slope corresponding to 2 to i or approximately to 63 J. Direction arrows on the model letters point in the direction the pencil should move in making each stroke. (See page 64.) The number written across the direction arrow indicates the order in which the strokes should be made. (See page 64.) This system of strokes should be closely followed by the beginner, as it points the way to easy and rapid lettering. Later on, when more familiar with the characteristics of the letters and when greater skill has been gained in handling the pencil or pen, the number of strokes may be reduced in order to acquire speed, but the first stroke should be the one which determines the spacing between the letter being formed and the preceding letter, the order of the strokes should follow the easiest method of secur- ing the desired outline, and the general direction of strokes should be either down (toward the body) or toward the right when lettering free-hand. LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 39 35 Spacing. It is fully as important to place letters the proper distance from one another as it is to form them correctly. Each letter in a word may be perfectly formed, but if all the letters have not been properly spaced the lettering will not appear uniform. The eye judges the space between letters as an area rather than a linear distance, and if separated by exactly equal distances, the areas outlined between adjacent letters will not be uniform in different combinations of straight and curved letters. Thus, a combination of letters with stand- ard slope sides falling adjacent, as MINE, would call for wide spacing as compared with such a combination as COG; while the adjacent sides of the letters of the word A T would have to " overhang" so that the spacing may appear uniform. Another extreme combination can be formed of half-open-side letters, as FTY. If it were possible to make these combinations fall in groups as illustrated, it would not be difficult to state rules for spacing; but with twenty-six different letters a great many different combinations are possible, and the problem of spacing cannot be covered by a single rule. Rules that will prove valuable to the beginner are given below but the appearance of the fin- ished work, in so far as spacing is concerned, will in the end depend upon the judgment exercised in maintaining the ap- pearance of equal areas between the letters. The distance between letters is measured in a line parallel to the top or bottom guide-line and between the side-guide-lines which fall adjacent. Based on this idea the " Key to Spacing " (see page 43) has been compiled and the distances given below 4- \ 8 21-21 / ', f 4^- -/// A3- -// have been carefully found by laying out on a large scale various side-line combinations (see above figure) and determining a spac- 40 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING ing that, in view of the area enclosed, gives the best spacing for such a combination. In the illustration the shaded portion rep- resents the " area " to be considered in determining the spacing which is shown between the side-guide-lines. By element of adjacency is meant that side-line of a letter which is nearest to the adjacent letter under consideration. (A) Spacing for various line combinations in Capital Letters presented in three different forms as follows: (I) Combinations classified by space units. (II) Combinations classified by side-line grouping. (III) Side-line combinations and corresponding spacing shown by chart. In learning to space method (I) should be the guide but as a further aid in certain combinations method (II) or (III) can be used but " spacing " has not been properly grasped until the judgment alone is relied on for satisfactory results. (I) COMBINATIONS CLASSIFIED BY SPACE UNITS A standard slope side followed by a standard slope side re- quires three and one half spaces, thus, N S ^N 3 ^E. A standard slope side adjacent to a curve side requires three spaces, thus, C Z H 3 S I S C 3 E. A combination side followed by a standard slope or a curve side, also two curve sides adjacent, require two and one half spaces, thus, P^R^I^S^M^^S. A standard slope side followed by any one of the letters, Z, V, W, A, X, also any one of the letters Z, V, K, W, A, X, followed by V or W or by a standard slope side, require two spaces, thus, M-^A^K^E. A standard slope side followed by Y or T; a curve or combi- nation side followed by any one of the letters Z, F, W, A , X; the letters K, X, or Z followed by a curve side; any one of the letters L, F, F, or T followed by a standard slope side require one and one half spaces, thus, F^L^E^W. All other combinations require one space, thus T 1 O 1 Y 1 S, except r, Y and F when followed by A, X or Z; also the L or A when followed by T or F, which require zero spacing, thus L Q A Y or A Q T, etc. LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 41 (II) COMBINATIONS CLASSIFIED BY SIDE-LINE GROUPING Letters with a standard slope side [H, I, M, N] when followed (1) by a standard slope side [B, D, E, F, H, I, K, L, M, N, P, R, U] require 3^ spaces. (2) by a curved side [C, O, G, Q, S] require 3 spaces. (3) by a _L or a 45 side [V, W-A, X, Z] require 2 spaces. (4) by a half -open side [T, Y, /] require i^ spaces. Letters with a curved side [C, 0, G, Q-J, U-B, D] when followed (1) by a standard slope side [B, D, E, F, H, I, K, L, M, N, P, R, U] require 3 spaces, (2) by a curved side [C, O, G, Q, S] require 2\ spaces. (3) by a J_ or a 45 side [V, W-A, X, Z] require i| spaces. (4) by a half -open side [T, Y, /] require i space. Letters with a combination side [R, E, P, S] when followed (1) by a standard slope side [B, D, E, F, H, I, K, L, M, N, P, R, U] or by a curved side [C, 0, G, Q, S] require 2\ spaces. (2) by a J_ or a 45 side [V, W-A, X, Z] require i^ spaces. (3) by a half-open side [T, Y, J] require i space. Letters with a -L or a 45 or a full open side [F, W-A-K, X, Z] when followed (1) by a standard slope side [B, D, E, F, H, /, K, L, M, N, P, R, U] require 2 spaces. (2) by a _L side [V, W] require 2 spaces. (3) by a curved side [C, O, G, Q, S] require ij spaces. (4) by a 45 side [A , X, Z] require i space. (5) by a half -open side [T, Y-J] require i space or o space. .Letters with a half-open side [L-F, T, Y] when followed (1) by a standard slope side [B, D, E, F, H, I, K, L, M, N, P, R, U] require i| spaces. (2) by a _L or a curved side [V, W-C, O, G, Q, S] require i space. (3) by a 45 or a half -open side [A, X y Z-T, Y-J] require i space or o space. 42 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING (III) SIDE-LINE COMBINATIONS AND CORRESPOND- ING SPACING SHOWN BY CHART The chart given on page 43 is used in the following manner. Assume as an example that the letters of the word COLLEGE are to be spaced. First, in the left-hand column locate the letter C, then move horizontally and to the right until the column contain- ing the capital at the top is located, and it is seen that the side- line classification is curved side followed by curved side, and, reading directly under the and in line with the C, the spacing is i\ units. Similarly the combination of the letters O and L is a curved side followed by standard slope line, and in a horizontal line with the O and directly under the L the chart shows the spacing as 3 units. Studying out all the combinations, the spac- ing is as follows: C^O^Li^Li^^GsE. (B) Spacing for Numerals. The " standard " spacing for numerals is two and one half space units but in such combina- tions as involve the left hand side of the j, the 4 and the 7 this distance should be slightly reduced and in such combinations as involve the i or the right hand side of the 4 (measured from the stem) this standard spacing is slightly increased. (C) Spacing for Capital Letters in combination with Small Letters and for Small Letters. Small letters are about two thirds the height of capital letters and numerals of the same alphabet and hence small letters require a spacing of about two thirds that given for a similar side-line combination of the capital letters. (D.) Spacing between words and between sentences. Care must be taken to have the proper space between words and a greater space between sentences, otherwise the lettering is not so easily read, even though the individual letters are correctly formed and spaced. The spacing between words should be slightly more than twice the average space separating letters. The spacing between sentences should be about twice that separating words. Where punctuation marks are necessary extra space is allowed. The punctuation mark is placed nearer the word which precedes LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 43 \ ^^ i ^ . 1 1 1 . X d i - i "J I v ' ^ 1 \ k X |k ^> ^ rv 1 I \ i i i & c i | V ' i l ^ Uj | l l I 1 i 1 l I | i \ N,^ \ I 1 N^ i 1 V l i \! , i \ 1 \ $ ^ (V I | X ^ ** v*^ -J ^ k"^ 8* ' 1 i i 1 Q | a M\ I ^(\, i i i 1 Q \ X ^^ i i i. G UJ \ 1 l l i i 1 f\ ^" i i | Uj Uj ^T j^_ 1 i > ? ^ i - ^ i (V 1 \ <\j ^ v^ ^J ^ t^^ M s 1 i 1 1 1 i 1 1 ^ 0) (0 ^ ^ 1 | i i 1 1 1 1 | 1 s ^ k Uj S V. /v_ V. ^a J v^ 1 ^ i Vj ^-f\ j O-MVI ^ ' vj ^ o ^ Oij ^ l v rv ^J \ i - ' "* V > ^ -J ^ k"^ -J xj Uj Uj s o 1 i i i i 1 | i k i "X 1 I i i i - h k IV "- n. x 4, i N i i i to ^ u ^ (Y) ^N r^ rv (\J Oj ^V v^i "v^ '^ j ^\^ ^ S 1 . 1 1 i THE LEFT HAND >S STANDARD SLOPE SI DEFH/KLMF g C 1 l SPACING -. 1 C 1 ' 8 SPACING 1 I SPACING 1 SPAC/NG-. OMBINA T/ON- SPACING S 1 SPACING . OMBI NATION- SPACING CD ) L i * ^ ^ * 10 ^ iy N p, IV \ (H v xj ITHE RIGHT HANL SIDES OF THE LCTTE BELOW ARE fH EL A i c COWBi 'NATION 31 DE | REPS APPF1GX 4- 5 SIDE i \PERPENDICULAR SID - FULL OPEN SIDE KXZ i ^ k k 44 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING it than the one which follows. The comma and the semicolon each require a space between the mark and the following word equal to the space between words. 36. Systematic Method of Lettering. Before starting the out- line of a letter, draw very lightly all guide lines and center lines that will be an aid in its construction. When forming a letter, make all lines very light at first, and, with the outline correct, retrace, making the lines of medium weight. All construction lines are then erased, and the correct outline, which will be made dim by the erasing, is again retraced and made clear cut and of the desired weight. In retracing, the strokes should always be made in the direction and order indi- cated by the arrows on the model letters. See 38, this page. For full instructions as to how to make free-hand lines see page 134, 95, also page 136, 96. ^ 37. The Size and the Lettering of Letter Sheets. Exercises in free-hand lettering will be done on small sheets of standard letter size (8" X ioj"), heavy weight, cross-section paper ruled on one side (see page 5, 4), and punched for standard #10 Manila cover. The order in which free-hand lettering sheets are executed will be indicated by capital letters, beginning with A and continuing as far as necessary. For full information as to the general sys- tem to be followed, see Appendix, page 175. SET OF FREE-HAND LETTERING EXERCISES. 38. Outline and Characteristics of Capital (or Upper-case) Letters Composed of Straight Lines Only. Over half of the capital letters of the inclined Gothic alphabet are composed entirely of straight lines, and several of these straight-line letters are very similar. In the following paragraphs the characteristics of straight-line capital letters are pointed out. In order to fully understand the subject matter of this para- graph, carefully read 34, page 37. LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 45 1 ^ -3- *H )l l / ^ Y i X 1 y / Capital I. i stroke of standard slope. The width of the letter is the width of the line and should not differ from that of all other standard slope lines. Do not V dot the capital /. G.L- Capital L. 2 strokes. If i is standard si #2 is drawn horizontal. Note that $2 is shorter than the corresponding line of E. -41 CO t/ M / / y I i j~ / /vm HOL -2- 5- / ^ -s: -< [7__ 3. 7 G.L (See this page.) Capital F. 3 strokes. #i is standard slope; $2 is the same as #2 of E (see this page) ; #3 starts from the middle of #i and is drawn horizontal and should never be drawn below the middle of the letter or be as long as #2. Capital E. 4 strokes. %i is standard slope; #2 the same as $2 of F; (see this page) ; #3 the same as #3 of F. #4 is par- allel to #2 but is slightly longer. $2 is also longer than the corresponding line of the L. (See this page.) Note that #2 and #4 are each shorter than the corresponding lines of Z (see page 47). Capital H. co $ A r fr 3 strokes. and #2 are each standard slope. Note that these two parallel lines would do for the N. (See page 46.) #3 starts at the middle of #i, is drawn horizontal and should never be drawn below the middle of the letter. L c! J 2 Capital T. 2 strokes. #i is drawn horizontal. #2 is standard slope and is drawn from a point slightly to the left of the center of #i. Note that #i is longer than the correspond- ing lines of E (see this page), F (see this page), and Z (see page 47). Stf ELEMENTS OF DRAWING Capital N. 3 strokes, fti and ft2 are each standard slope, as in the H. (See page 45.) Stroke ft3 must meet fti and #2 exactly at the extremes of the proper ends. II Capital M. 4 strokes. fti and ft2 are each standard slope, and are drawn a distance apart equal to the height of the letter. ft3 and ft4 are first drawn very lightly, the lower segments of which are erased in the finished letter. The angle between ft3 and ft4 must not be too acute or the letter -will appear to be compressed, or if too large the letter will appear " widened." The M is not the same as the W inverted. (See Page 47-) , Capital Y. 3 strokes, fti is a standard slope line drawn through the center of the letter but slightly less than the lower half is used in the completed letter. Strokes ft2 and ft3 each start from points on the top guide line which are equidistant from the inter- section of fti (extended) and the top guide line and meet fti slightly below the center. Capital V. 2 strokes. Note especially that fti is vertical and ft2 makes 45 with it; also the letter is wider at the top than any straight line letter excepting the M (see this page) and the W. (See page 47.) Also fti is not parallel to ft2 of the A (see page 47), and no line has the standard slope. The capital and the small v are similar (see page 67). Capital X. 2 strokes. ft2 has a slope of 2 to i and should cross fti _J j* at a point on the sloping center line slightly^ above the center of the letter, thus making - -5- -p - 'r *~ \\ / /, f s / / 4 A '/ ^ n ._. ~ / / * s| 7 1 ] A\ ^ LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 47 the letter wider at the bottom than at the top, otherwise it appears top-heavy. The capital and the small x are similar. See page 67. Capital A. 3 strokes, fti makes 45 with top and bottom guide lines. ft2 is drawn from the extreme top of fti to the base of the right guide line and is not a - vertical line, thus ft 2 is not parallel to fti of the V. (See page 46.) ft3 is horizontal and one-third the distance from the bot- tom to the top of the letter, and thus is always below the center of the letter. Note that no lines of this letter have the standard slope. Capital K. 3 strokes, fti is standard 'p 5 slope, ft 2 is drawn to meet fti at a point one- third the height of letter; i.e., below center of letter. ft3 is drawn very lightly, the upper segment of which is erased in the finished letter. Note that the letter has a greater width at the bottom than at the top. Capital Z. 3 strokes. Draw very lightly two sloping side guide lines. fti is horizontal and starts from the left guide line. ft3 is parallel to fti, but slightly longer. Note that fti and ft3 are longer than the corresponding lines of the E. (See .page 45.) The "i capital and the small z are similar. See page 67. Capital W. 4 strokes. No stroke ^j has the standard slope, fti and ft3 each incline slightly to the right and are parallel; also ft 2 and ft4 are parallel. Note that the letter W inverted would not be the same as the M. (See page 46.) The capital and the small w are similar. See page 67. 48 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING 39. Sheet A. The purpose of this sheet is to teach the form and characteristics of the capital letters of the inclined Gothic alphabet, which are constructed entirely of straight lines, also to give practice in making these letters. Before starting this sheet read and be prepared for examina- tion on the following paragraphs: The Pencil Pointer, see page 14, 13, Lead Pencil, see page 14, 14, Erasers and Erasures, see page 16, 15, The Free-hand Pencil Line, see page 134, 95, Introductory, see page 34, 31, the Study of Lettering, see page 34, 32,- The Spacing of Letters, Words and Sentences, see page 39, 35, and for information on the general system to be followed see page 175, Appendix A. Exercises on Sheet A. These exercises consist of capital letters of the simplest form. Before beginning the construction of any letter, study carefully the illustration of that letter in the model alphabet (see page 44, 38) and read all .descriptive matter relating to it. Also see 37, page 44. Do not use a straightedge in doing any part of a free-hand exercise as this will seriously impair the value of this work. Lines so made are easily detected and as a result the sheet will not be accepted. Specific Instructions for Executing Sheet A . Tack down the sheet (see page 8, 9), stamp in title form (see page 138, 98) and the wording in the title form is next to be neatly written in ink. The title of sheet A is CAPITAL LETTERS. Proceed with the letters systematically, and complete the sheet as shown in Fig. 39, but omit arrows. Practice making a free- hand pencil line on scrap paper before starting sheet A . This practice can best be accomplished by making a free-hand copy of some simple drawing, such as Fig. 97 on page 140, continuing to practice until a " clear cut" line can be made (see page 78, 54). Also the beginner should at this time learn to sharpen a pencil with care (see page 15, 14) and to use an eraser to the best advantage (see page 16, 15). LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 49 'M to t 1 d ^ \ s x^ s s *x \ ^0 -> Vi^ s, ^ ^ \j 1 ^ ' ! ^s <*. "Si . C. i X ^ x^ s (\j s rv 1 \ J ^ ^ ^ vr -1 * \ 1 I 1 "S X n 1 I I Q s x^ I p g ^ *-^ V 3 N f 1^ x^ s I & ^ 1 V ' x^ n s H ' 9, 1: \J 1 A X ^ - \\ X s "* x^ S n \ X x^ ** ^ - s^ -s Xj T s^ r(y ^ X, s * X ^ \\ T _ ^^ N> ^ X ^ II J ^ i^ o ft X s r Jt V x n X s. -^ -4- ^u p- 50 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING The first letter to be drawn is the capital /, and the bottom of this letter is to be located 23 spaces from the top edge and 14! spaces from the first heavy vertical cross-section line on the left side of the sheet. Having satisfactorily completed the outline of all letters, clean the sheet (see page 17, 15), and go over all lines, making them clear cut and finished. See page 78, 54. Thoroughly examine the work to see that nothing has been omitted; correct any errors, and, after the sheet has been in- spected, write the Date Finished and the Total Actual Hours in the title form, and submit the sheet for final approval. 40. The Sloping Ellipse. A large number of capitals, small letters, and numerals of the inclined Gothic alphabet have an outline which is partly or entirely oval. This oval approaches :more nearly the "sloping ellipse" than any other curve, and the .beginner should understand the construction of such a curve be- fore attempting to form the curved letters. The exact shape of any ellipse is determined by the ratio between its long and short axes. Fig. 40 (a) shows an ellipse with its long axis vertical and having a ratio of width to height of 5 to 6, this ratio ibeing common to many letters. This ellipse is tangent to the guide lines at the points i, 2, 3, 4, and is symmetrical about i>oth the long axis and the short one. Therefore the diagonals 5 to 7 and 6 to 8 are of equal length, also the four shaded areas outside the ellipse are equal and have the same shape. A "sloping ellipse" is shown in Fig. 40 (b). In this con- struction the long axis has the slope of the alphabet (2 to i), but the short axis remains horizontal. When this curve is drawn in a parallelogram and is tangent at the extremities of the axes, the lines i to 3 and 2 to 4 do not divide the ellipse symmetri- cally. The shaded areas are therefore not of the same shape, but those diametrically opposite are the reverse of each other. That is, in the sloping ellipse the upper left-hand quadrant of the curve is the same as the lower right-hand quadrant but reversed in relative position, and similarly the upper right-hand quadrant is the same as the lower left-hand quadrant but re- versed in relative position. The " sloping ellipse " is therefore LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING not of the true ellipse construction but is an ellipse so modified that its major axis has the slope of the alphabet, and the curve is tangent to the limiting parallelogram at the extremities of the In certain portions of the outlines of some of the capital axes. n / \r / [7.1*1 y ^T7 ^ / A / / 6 % A? y / 8' /' 7> f P i ,: i \^ ^^(j^w Cf.L.n r 3 / V ?.L (a) Vertical. (b) Medium Slope. Fig. 40. Ellipses. (c) Extreme Slope. letters and in the case of certain small letters a much better shaped letter is obtained if the slope of the ellipse is made greater than the standard slope as shown in Fig. 4o(c). Ap- proximately the same effect can be obtained in some of the capital letters by the use of circular arcs as shown in Z>, U, J, P, B, and R, pages 52 and 53. The use of the small ellipse [see Fig. 4o(c)] in small letters is shown on pages 63, 64 and 65. 41. Outline and Characteristics of Capital (or Upper-case) Letters Composed Wholly or Partly of Curved Lines. For gen- eral discussion of guide lines, center lines, dimension lines, and arrows as used in connection with lettering and numbering, see page 37, 34. Capital O. 3 strokes. Draw two side-guide-lines such that their distance apart is equal to the width of the letter. Bisect the parallelogram by two center lines, as shown, and locate the: points of tangency of the guide ^>* lines and ellipse. Draw in the sloping ellipse in the order of the strokes. For full description and construction of the " sloping ellipse " see page 50, 40. The capital Q and the small o are similar. See page 63. 1 / 1 _. / / Cs / / SI ^ ^ / /^ / / V / / / / $6 7 / 7 / / i / s, / / x ^--_ 2] S P L. / / 1 u ELEMENTS OF DRAWING Capital Q. 4 strokes. Three strokes, as for O. (See page 51.) #4 is drawn very lightly from the left-hand point of tangency to the intersection of the right-hand and bottom guide lines. Erase about two-thirds of the left-hand portion of this line and retrace the remain- ing portion medium weight. / , / / / L*-* 1 / s / // \ / V / / / / 7 / X ' / / \v 5 s c / i / V ^ ^> / T 1 7 . . X W * Capital C. 3 strokes. Proceed as with O (see page 51), excepting that #2 and #3 are shortened. The opening in the ellipse is slightly greater than one-third the height of letter and nearer the bottom than the top guide line but the letter width is the same as the O. The capital C and the small c See page 64. 4 strokes. #i and #3 t AJt ^ N L / C\j 1 Z \ / t 1 / / / / "b, 1 / / / , u / s / ~^ & i ' V ^ -'2 ^^^ / / / / are similar. Capital G. are the same as for C. (See this page.) #2 is longer than #2 in C and extends up one-third the height of letter. $4 is horizontal and extends one-third across the letter. Capital D. 3 strokes. #i is standard slope. The right-hand half of the letter practically the same as the right Er i: half of O. (See page 51.) The D is slightly narrower than the O. Capital U. 2 strokes. ,^ 7 ^ Upper half of letter con- j , i sists of standard slope ' lines, and lower half is practically the same as lower half of O. (See page 51.) The U is slightly narrower than the O. LETTERS, NUMERALS AND LETTERING 53 ^o T7 F- Capital J. 3 strokes. S3 is two- thirds the upper portion of a standard slope line. Note that / is relatively - narrow. The lower portion of the ' letter is part of a small modified - sloping ellipse. See page 50, 40, i Fig. 40 (c). P. 3 strokes. #i is fti - 7 ----- * /I -<- / ^ >/ -m* _ i >i ,.. eo|^ / l \ v ? T ^ a -^ ^/ i I \ \\ y 1 / T 1 ! / I V -< . _ f -1 / i i i i Ci 3P ital _J 2 U- Capital standard slope. S2 is partly horizontal and partly small modified sloping ellipse. See page 51, 40. Note that portions of 52 and S3 are parallel. Capital R. 4 strokes. #i, #2, and S3 same as Si, #2, and S3 for P. (See this page.) S4 is drawn so as to make the R r wider at the bottom than at the top and should be drawn in such a direction that it would intersect Si (extended) slightly above the top guide line. , B. 4 strokes, fti, [ ~ 5 ^^ 82, and part of S3 same as Si, #2, and 53 for P. (See this page.) The lower half (or lobe) of B is of the same form but slightly wider than the upper lobe. Capital S. 3 strokes. Draw all guide and center lines. The outline of the letter consists of portions of two tangent modified ellipses, exactly the same size and slope but in reversed rela- tive position. Si is the left half of upper ellipse and the right half of lower ellipse. #2 is drawn from the top point of tangency, S3 to the lower point of tangency. Locate accurately the seven points of tangency before "roughing in" ellipses and see that the outline 1 - *_ - y ... !* / / 2, Q *. '/ *?. * D / / i , > 7 1 f/ V f) T / ^=- v~ ^ '/ Jie >nt 5, r~ 2> k -< 54 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING is tangent at the center of the letter but is not drawn below the horizontal center line at the middle of the letter. The capital and the small s are similar. See page 66. Abbreviation &. 5 strokes. #i, #2, and $3 are almost the same as for the numeral 8. (See page 59.) Note especially where #4 and #5 begin and end. 42. Sheet B. The purpose of this sheet is to teach the form and characteristics of the capital letters of the inclined Gothic alphabet, which are constructed wholly or partially of curved lines, and to give practice in making these letters. Having had the experience of making sheet A, again read paragraph 34, page 37, with reference to the Model letters. For information on the general system to be followed see Appendix A, page 175. Exercises on Sheet B. These exercises include all capital letters of the inclined Gothic alphabet not given on Sheet A . Before attempting to form a letter, study carefully the illus- tration and description of that letter in the model alphabet. See page 51, 41- Specific Instructions for Executing Sheet B. Tack down the sheet, stamp in and fill out the title form. The wording in the title form is to be neatly written in ink. The title of Sheet B is CAPITAL LETTERS. Locate the letters on the sheet according to the space dimen- sions shown in Fig. 41 . Proceed with the lettering systematically (seepage 44, 36) and complete, as shown in Fig. 41. Having satisfactorily completed the outline of all letters, clean the sheet and retrace all lines, making them clear cut and of the desired weight. Carefully examine the work to see that nothing has been omitted; correct any errors, and, after the sheet has been thoroughly inspected, write in with ink the Date Finished LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 55 *>r 5 i ^ j .0). ^ 56 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING s and Total Actual Hours, and submit the sheet for final approval. 43. Sheet C. The purpose of this sheet is to teach the beginner to correctly maintain all relative proportions of letters and spacing in lettering of the size usually found on practical drawings. The first alphabet at the top of the sheet is reduced to one-half size; this means that dimensions given on Sheet A (page 49, Fig. 39) and Sheet B (page 55, Fig. 41), including the spacing, are reduced one-half. The second alphabet on Sheet C is reduced to one-third size, and the unit of space is one- third that given on Sheets A and B. The lettering in the note at the bottom of Sheet C is only one space high, that is, it is one-sixth size, and the spacing between letters, words, and sentences must be reduced accordingly. Specific Instructions .for Executing Sheet C. Tack down the sheet, stamp in and fill out the title form. The title of Sheet C is REDUCED-SIZE LETTERING. Locate numbers and letters on sheet, as shown in Fig. 42. When all lettering has been satisfactorily completed in pen- cil, clean the sheet and retrace all lines, making them the proper weight. Every possible precaution should be taken to prevent soiling the sheet and to avoid the necessity of making changes. As this sheet is to be inked, any erasing which tends to injure the sur- face of the drawing makes satisfactory inking very difficult. This sheet must be finally approved in pencil before it is inked in. Thoroughly examine the work to see that nothing has been omitted; correct any errors, and, after inspection and approval, the sheet is ready for inking. Before attempting to ink any work the beginner should practice inking on scrap paper. See page 136, 96. Such preliminary practice accustoms the hand to the touch of the pen and avoids experiments on approved penciled sheets, which would most likely spoil them. Specific instructions for Inking Sheet C. Tack down the ap- proved penciled sheet on the drawing board and, before be- ginning to practice inking on scrap paper, read and prepare LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 57 -q- ELEMENTS OF DRAWING for examination on the following paragraphs. Free-hand Inked Lines, page 136, 96, Drawing Ink, page 18, 18, The Ordinary Pen, page 18, 19. 44. Outline and Characteristics of Numerals. For general discussion of guide lines, center lines, dimension lines, and arrows as used in connection with letters and numbers, see page 37, 34- / Four. 3 strokes. #i is standard slope and its location in the limiting parallelogram of guide lines is very important, being a distance of three-fourths the total width of agure from the left guide line. #2 Grlr. extends downward two-thirds the height of the numeral. #3 is hori- zontal and extends entirely across the limiting parallelogram and gives the figure its real width, which is greater than any other numeral. V s 1 I ! Q \ / N / s / ' - mmm' 3 -> / Seven. 2 strokes. Note especially the width of the numeral, the curvature of #2, and that the end of #2 does not meet the bottom guide line of the limiting parallelogram equally distant from the side guide lines. Naught. 3 -4- f\ 1 ^ I ^m mar -7- j / / / / / % / / Z '' 1 \ / / / ft Crj , / / 1 / o / 1 ' /< ^^ - ^^ ' / , ) i / r / Ci 1 / L : V / u / -y / ! V ^ ^ f ', \c ' r ' strokes. Formed the ' same as the (see page 51) but slightly narrower. Nine. 3 -5f strokes. A mall sloping ellipse [see Fig. 40 (c)] forms part of the outline. Note especially the angle of the center line of the small ellipse and that the slope of the portion of the r* 5 large ellipse is the slope of the numeral [see Fig. 40 (b)]. The form of the Q is exactly the same as the 6 inverted (see page 59) LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 59 Six. 3 strokes. The form of the 6 is exactly the same as the p in- verted (see page 58). This neces- sitates a change in the order of strokes. Five. 4 strokes. Lower part of 5 is similar to lower i i ellipse of 6 (see this page) . fti is standard slope, extend- ing to ellipse only. Note that #i is slightly to the right but parallel to the left-hand guide line and therefore is not tangent to #2. #4 extends to right guide line. Note that extreme width of the numeral is from starting point of #2 to right- hand point of tangency. , 7 , ( _. 1 _^\ i Eight. 4 strokes. The outline of the numeral " ? *]j * pT is made up of two tangent ellipses. The lower half of the numeral is similar in outline to the upper half but slightly i wider. Note the similarity to 5 (see page 53). Three. 4 strokes, j Consists of portions " of two ellipses of the same dimensions. Note that less of the upper ellipse is used than the lower ; this is in order that the numeral will not appear top heavy. The 3 is similar to the 8 (see this page). Two. 4 strokes. The upper half of the numeral consists of part of an ellipse, which is one-half the figure height and the full figure width. #i and #3 are both tangent to left guide line. Note the curvature of #3 and that begins lower down than on the numeral (see this page). 60 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING 45. Sheet D. The purpose of this sheet is to teach the beginner the characteristics of the numerals and to give practice in making them. Locate the numerals on the sheet as shown in Fig. 43. The slope of fractions must be the same as that of the alphabet; for example, take any ordinary fraction, say, five-eighths, the eight is not vertically below the five, but a standard slope line drawn through the center of the 5 passes through the center of the 8. The line separating the numerator from the denominator must always be a straight line parallel with the line of printing. A sloping dividing line may lead to error in reading a fraction. The figures in the numerator and in the denominator must never touch the dividing line. The total height of a fraction should be about one and one-half times the height of whole numbers. Follow specific instructions given for preceding sheets in so far as they apply to this sheet. The title of sheet D is NUMERALS. 46. Sheet E. The purpose of this sheet (see Fig. 44) is to give practice in lettering of a size suitable for notes on working drawings. Follow specific instructions given for the preceding sheets in so far as applicable. The title of sheet E is LETTERING. Specific Instructions for Inking Sheet E. Tack down the approved penciled sheet on the drawing board, and carefully ink each letter in the order in which they come. Clean the pen frequently and maintain a steady and even pressure on the pen point. Extra care must be taken in inking this sheet other- wise it is liable to be spoiled. 47. The Small (or Lower-case) Letters of the Inclined Gothic Alphabet. In studying characteristics of the lower-case alphabet, carefully read 34, page 37, and remember that the direction and order of strokes is of prime importance. As in the case of free-hand capital letters, all strokes which are horizontal or nearly so are made toward the right, while all others are made down- ward or toward the draftsman. This avoids the possibility of catching the pen point in the drawing and splashing the ink. LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 6l Ss* ii 62 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING if * LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING This alphabet requires a total height of eight blocks for the model letters, but in practice only four horizontal guide lines are necessary. These lines are numbered from the bottom to the top. Thus, #i limits the letter when its stem (seepage 37, 34) extends below the body of the letter, as in g, j, p, q, y; $2 limits the bot- tom of the body; #3, the top of the body; and #4, the stems when they extend above the body, as in b, d,f, k, h, and /. The distance between the first and second lines and between the third and fourth lines is two spaces, or one-half of that between the second and third lines. The height and width of a, c, e, n, o, u, andfl is the same and is equal to four unit spaces. The letter o is similar to the sloping ellipse described in 40, page 50, and makes up wholly or partially the outline of all letters having a body more or less elliptical. The horizontal and the slope guide lines form a parallelogram and the horizontal center line intersects these guide lines at their mid- points, which determine the touching points of the ellipse, but the sloping center line runs from the lower left hand corner to the upper right hand corner [see Fig. 40 (c), page 51]. Thus the small oval letters "tilt" more than the capital oval letters, though the slope of the letters appears the same. Consequently the small letters are more in harmony with the capital letters previously described. The small o is similar to the capital O (seepage 51). Letters a, d, g, and q differ as to the length and position of their stems. All these stems have standard .,,,,_ slope and are tangent to the elliptical body T7.LT As^^^i'^JX/ f ~~r?\/\W}~~ a ^ e same corre ~ h**?felErffflB sponding point. - -G.I. The vertical height of the elliptical J body (or lobe) is equal to its width and is the same as for the o (see this page). The body of the a, i ^ \ d, g, and q should be made with two strokes, as shown; stroke #3 lies along the slope guide line. 6 4 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING d repeats a, except that stroke #3 begins at guide line #4. g repeats a but U 4 *-j stroke ft3 continues ]/ , '/, with a sweeping curve to guide line fti , q exactly the a construction but'stroke #3 continues to guide line fti. The stem of the b is the first stroke and coincides with the left-slope guide line; stroke ft2 ends at the touching point of the ellipse and left-slope guide line; stroke ft3 continues to the stem. p differs from the b only in the position of the stem. Letters c and e. Thee has the same height and width G.I as the o (see page 63), but the open- ing in the ellipse is such that strokes ft2 and ft3 begin at different touching points on the right-slope guide line. The small c is similar to the capital C (see page 52). The e differs slightly from the c in that stroke ft 2 ends on the horizontal center line; stroke ft4 starts from the point of tangency of stroke fti, and, following the center line, joins stroke ft2. V Letters n, r } hj and m. The curved portion of the n consists of the upper portion of the ellipse exactly as that of the u consists of the lower portion of 'G.L. the o. Stroke fti is standard slope; stroke ft2 ends where the ellipse comes # / -* y- LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING tangent to the left-slope guide line, and stroke #3 follows the guide line from the point of tangency. Strokes #i and #3 must be parallel, beginning at their points of tangency with the ellipse. The r is the same as the left half of the n except that stroke #2 continues along the top guide line a short distance. The h differs from the n only in the length of the stem, or stroke #i. Note that though the first three strokes of the I ? m are similar to those of the n, the width is 1 different; strokes #4 4 #5 are a repetition ofj #2 and #3. All stems are parallel and have standard slope. H 6 H u and y. The curved portion of "the u consists of the v r* 4 *\ lower part of the n . ij uc. |_j js ellipse, exactly as G.I.T- T! -"PT -T- VX* tar that of then con- portion of the o. Note that stroke #3 continues to line # 2 - t > 1 /^ >^ y 1 v*. N / ^ x ^ / // '*" , ^ / ^ % ^ 1 ~ t A 2 / i 2 ^ ^ r 1 t) ^ ^ S/ ^ i / CM 7 / y repeats the w, but stroke #3 continues to guide line #i exactly as in the g. (See page 64.) ZcJfers /, *, ^, /,/, andj. The / is a simple standard slope line drawn toward the draftsman and is six spaces high. The i is a single stroke of standard slope, and the dot is placed exactly where the stem if extended would cut the hori- zontal #4. The k has a standard slope line as stroke #i; stroke #2 starts on the horizontal guide line #3 but to the left of the slope guide line, so that the latter is not so wide at the top as at the bottom; stroke #3 begins below the middle of stroke #2, and extends to the 66 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING horizontal guide line #2, giving the lower part of the letter the standard 4-space width. G.L- The / is five spaces high and has the standard slope. Stroke $2 is the horizontal cross-bar which coincides with horizontal i ^ ?->. b ?- / IT SN / ^ .g S / t .m^ -2- /' I * / / 1 i i / 1 // / \ h- ^y _ 1 /' 7 / ' 1 ~ I ,/ //^ / /i Q / / 7 j ^X ?' A *j 2 1 ^ 7 ?* guide line #3 and which is two spaces long but is not bisected by the stem of the letter. The / repeats the t except that by adding stroke #3 the letter is brought to the height of the /. The.; repeats the i, but is carried to the horizontal guide line #i by adding a curve with a sweep one-half space less than the tail curve of the g and that of the y. (See pages 64 and 65.) Letter s. The s is formed in three strokes. Stroke #i is a double and reverse (ogee) curve which is horizon- tal at the top, bottom, and the middle _Q ^ for a very short distance. Strokes #2 and #3 are short curves from left to right. If the bottom oval of the letter should be completed it would be four spaces wide, while the upper oval would be only three and a half, thus making the LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 6 7 letter wider at the base than at the top. The small s is similar to the capital S. (See page 53.) Letters v and w. The v contains the only vertical line hi this alphabet which is stroke #i. It has full-letter G ' Lr width of four spaces at the top. The small ^ . i Cy H A *"J H*~w* v is similar to the capital F. (See page 46.) Stroke fti of the w is not the same as stroke #i of the v, nor is it twice as wide as the v; that is, the w is not made up of two v's. The small w is similar to the capital W. (See page 47.) Letter x. The x is made with two strokes, intersecting slightly above the middle of the sloping center line. The top is three and a half spaces wide, while the bottom width is the standard four / Q . ' ' i 1 / ^7 X "", X-i, 1 1^ ^ / ', y / I / ^mm c -~ / ; , r , 'spaces. Note that this slight difference ^. ^ 4~^\ i n top and bottom width is the same with the s and z. The smalls is similar to the capital X. (See page 46.) Letter z. The z is made up of three strokes. The top and bottom of the letter have the same widths as that of the x and s. The small z is similar to the capital Z. (See page 47.) 48. Sheet F. The exercises on this sheet (see Fig. 45) give practice in making the small letters of the Gothic alphabet and afford an opportunity to study in detail the characteristics of each of the lower-case letters. For detailed description see 47, page 60. Note especially the. relative size of capitals and numerals used with this alphabet. This sheet is to be inked but is to be perfected and approved in pencil before inking is done. Follow the specific instructions given for preceding sheets as far as applicable. The title of sheet F is LOWER-CASE LETTERS. 68 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING LETTERS, NUMERALS, AND LETTERING 69 49. Designing Headings and Titles. A very quick method of laying out the title is to sketch the lines of lettering on transparent paper of good quality and then transfer them in their proper relative position. The transferring is best done by blackening the back of the paper upon which the lettering is sketched, using a soft lead pencil sharpened to a chisel point and held flatwise. The paper is next placed in its proper position on the drawing and the outline of each letter carefully traced over with a moderately sharp pencil; this transfers the letters in dim lines. These outlines will not be so true as the original lines and must be gone over with a pencil before being inked. After a little experience, a simple title can be made directly on the drawing by using horizontal guide lines and arranging the lettering symmetrically about a vertical center line. This letter- ing should be sketched in very lightly at first, and when correct the entire title should be retraced in pencil before being inked. When lettering a drawing if a name or a / sentence cannot be printed in a horizontal &r line, the proper way to have the inclined lettering read is shown in Fig. 46. 50. Sheet G. The purpose of this sheet (see Fig. 47) is to give practice in laying out Fig. 46- Direction in the bill of material and the title for a drawing. Before beginning work on _this sheet read carefully 49, this page. This sheet is graded upon the quality of the lettering, and the accuracy shown in locating the different lines of lettering. Follow specific instructions previously given in so far as appli- cable. NOTE. The straight border and limiting lines of the title form can be drawn by use of a straight edge, but they should be made neatly and in the exact location as shown in Fig. 47. The title of sheet G is TITLE FORM. 51. Examination on Chapter II. Lay out a sheet of vertical Gothic letters or any other sheet of lettering assigned. Prepare for examination on the principal subject matter of this chapter. 70 ELEMENTS OF DRAWING ;a. IS JO S 8p: I i p 1 V 1 v,^^ 1 I 1 i i 1 r^ y 3 t- 1 X ^ i r N 1 U) i sl \ s L \ \ r N \ s S ry> r J r\. 1 i QC Y LJ K \ <^ k ^ [ v^ i . I \ k \\- C ) y. 1 r-r rT kl I, r < S > r^ \ - 3 \^ k tj k N 2 * 2 ^ s pj A! ty I 1 IP Oi U y ^J i"} l \l * ^ T > Or \ < J) S ( f) I i P s "N, V ^ f/ \ ^ j ( \ 1 j >. j u J ^ w 1 . 1 \ \ kl k 4 1 ^ | i \ ^ p ^J 1, \ 1 I. 1 \ V ^' 1 1 > 1 rv fX kj I n u v rl* to rn U J ki j r^ 14 j fy 3 X v ^j Ij y ^ ^> k ( V * V D r >P 2 I ~s k ' 1 } 1 ** * - i s f