THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES \ WITH RHODES IN MASHOXALAND. [By peTnnission of Messrs. ElUutt <& Fry. The Right Hon. Cecil J. Rhodes. WITH EHODES IN MASHONALAND. BY D. C. DE WAAL, M.L.A. TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL DUTCH BY JAN H. HOFMEYR DE WAAL. IN TWO PARTS. J. C. JUTA & CO., CAPE TOWN. I PORT ELIZABETH. JOHANNESBURG. AND 36, BASINGHALL STREET, LONDON, E.G. 189G. KnUrtd at Stationers' Hall.] [All rights reserved. LOKDOX: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Limited, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARIXG CROSS. DT II (Vf.O r PREFACE, The contents of this book appeared a few years ago as a series of articles in the Zuid Afrikaansche Tijdschrift, a Dutch monthly magazine published in Cape Town. As Charterland or Rhodesia (as it has recently been named) was then, so to speak, a new- bom babe to which the political eye of South Africa was turning with keen interest, the description of our travels was eagerly and appreciatively read. The reader will find the account to consist of facts written in plain words. I have neither indulged in florid language, nor do I make any claim to correct literary style. When I penned the contents of this volume, I did not in the least contemplate their being printed in English. Shortly after their publication in their original form, I was asked by numbers of my English friends to have them translated and published in book form. To this request I have at last yielded, and I trust the book will please them and all others who care to know something about the nature and history of Mashonaland — the future Eldorado. VI PItEFACE. The second part of the book, which contains an account of our second trip to the interior, will, I believe, be generally accepted as the more interesting of the two, so I hope the reader will not lay aside and criticise the book until he has perused the whole of it. If worthy of being read, the following pages should be of interest not only to South Africans, but to the English public generally, as Ehodesia is certain in the near future to become one of the foremost de- pendencies of Great Britain. In conclusion I may point out that Mr. Khodes, Sir H. B. Loch, Mr. Sivewright, Captain Bower, and Dr. Jameson, as mentioned in this book, are now respectively the Eight Hon. Cecil J. Khodes, Lord Loch, Sir James Sivewright, Sir Graham Bower, and Dr. Jameson, C.B. David C. de Waal. Cape Towm, Decemler, 1895. CONTENTS. PAET I. OUB FIBST TBIP. CHAPTER I. PAGE We set out — My travelling companions — Met by Mankoraan — The chiefs complaints — Sir Henry's presents are rejected — Vrijburg — We witness a Kafir wedding at Mafeking — A visit to Montsioa ..... 1 CHAPTER II. Having parted from the Governor and his company, we start — Our waggons and their attendants — We spend our first night with an old hunter, and lie and bis housebold en- lighten us as to Lobengula and his coimtry — " Nel- mapius " is best left alone — Willow Park ... 12 CHAPTER III. Buisixx)rt — Travellers' tales not all gospel — We outspan at a German missionary's — More harrowing details about the cbief of the Matabele — A literal dance of death — We have our first misadventure — Kafir beer better than Nelmapius .... ... 18 CONTENTS. CHAPTER IV. PASE The banks of the Limpopo — Mr. Rhodes a good shot — Mr. Venter fails to imitate a lion — An unsuccessful wild duck hunt — Arrive at Palla's Camp, and again meet the Governor ........ 24 CHAPTER V. Hunting in clay — A visit to a Transvaal shopkeeper, and a look at a boa constrictor — How Grobbelaar met his death — Major Sapte's compass not so useful as horses' hoofs — I receive very sad news from home — Pietje upsets Mr. Venter 29 CHAPTER Vr. We arrive at Sofala — Journeying through a kloof — Too large a company has its drawbacks — Mr. Rhodes shows the strength of his resolution, and gets drenched — The meeting with Khama — The chiefs differences with the farmers — Khama's wife — Reflections on the country . 35 CHAPTER Vn. Leave Tjopong — We outspan, and I go a-fishing — A man saved from drowning — A talk with Sir Henry Loch . 42 CHAPTER VI IL An adventure with a lion — The weather not what we ex- pected — Mr. Rhodes reminds me of my grandfather — Sunday in the camp— Sir Henry goes out hunting, and !Mr. Venter and I spend the morning tree measuring — We lose our way, and meet some game which we fail to secure — The Premier the best sportsman ... 46 CONTENTS. XI CHAPTER IX. PAGE " The place of death " — Macloutsi — Though man proposes, God disposes — A review of the British Bechuana police — Telegraph facilities — A separation which Sir Henry Loch disapproves — Mr. Ehodes wishes to see Mashona- land, and we go forward ...... 52 CHAPTEE X. A dark night and a recalcitrant driver — We find we have an invalid in the company — We go on and pass through a country deserted through fear of Lobengula — A letter of warning from the Governor ..... 58 CHAPTER XI. We arrive at the Tuli River — Other tourists there besides ourselves — Our ideas considered impracticable — Mr. Rhodes gives up his project with regret — The story of a brave lion-hunter ....... 62 CHAPTER XII. A bad night — Solomon fears he is going to die — Traces of hyajnas and snakes — We come to an African Paradise — Mr. Venter and I go in search of milk, and are nearly torn to pieces — We cross the Crocodile, and have an interview with Mr. Greeff — A proposed big hunt . . 69 CHAPTER XIII. We divide our forces — The prospect of a delicious supper — I meet with some curious wild animals — An interview with crocodiles— The return of our hunters — An ad- venture with a tiger — Mr. Greeff tells an exciting story. 76 Xll CONTENTS. CHAPTEll XIV. PAGE Mr. van Aardo'.s farm — Too tired to run after koodoos — A dififcrence about our journey, and Mr. Langs has to give way — Crematart River and the trees there ... 83 CHAPTER XV. Fascinating scenery — The River Nile, so called — We make another effort to buy milk — The Kafir women as bad as the dogs — A delusive hill — The Premier is dissatisfied, but the oxen are not — A born hunter and his family — Salt-waggons from Zoutpansbergen .... 87 CHAPTER XVI. A carriage and four horses — Mr. Barend Vorster — ^Mr. Aden- dorff and his concession — A tiresome invitation which has to be accepted — We reach Pietersburg, and read sad tidings in the newspapers — We do not enjoy our quarters, and decide to leave — Expensive hospitality — We hear more than we desire of the concession . . 92 CHAPTER XVII. The concession again — A sumptuous lunch — Makapaan's Poort — The cave of the Kafirs — A fearful death — We reach Potgieter's Eust — Kafirs on the way to the gold fields — The advantages of Kafir labour . . . 101 CHAPTER XVIII. No hurry to reach Pretoria — An officer meets us with an in- vitation — We enter in procession, and sleep, after two months' travellin>i, under a roof — Nelmapius gives me a headache in Pretoria — The gold mines of Johannes- burg — I am treated discourteously by a post-office clerk at Kimberley — Home at Capetown once more . . 106 CONTENTS. XUI PAET 11. OUB SECOND TBIP. CHAPTER I. PAGE Introduction — We leave Capetown for Port Elizabeth — The Premier shuns a public demonstration — The mosquito in Durban — On board ship — Beetles as company — Mr. Ehodes does not mind them, but I do, and crack my crown in consequence . . . . . .117 CHAPTER II. Still in the Norseman — We arrive at Delagoa Bay — The character of the Portuguese residents — Why Delagoa Bay is unhealthy — Back to our berths — Beetles prefer- able to dii"t — The manoeuvres of our pilot — An awkward predicament — At Inhambane — We hire Kafir boys, but the Governor disaj)proves — The Premier waxes wrathful and gains his point ....... 124 CHAPTER III. We depart from Inhambane — The pilot proves an un- successful acrobat — We reach Beira Bay — In trouble once more about our Kafirs — Captain Pipon to the rescue — The Governor outwitted ..... 134 CHAPTER IV. Our first sight of hippopotami — Native canoes — A lovely night — We row to the shore and have a water-buck hunt — Major Johnson the " man of the day " — We reach Naves Ferreira — Notes on the Portuguese inliabitants and the native Kafirs ...... 143 xiv CONTENTS. CHAPTEE V. PAGE Unloading under difiBculties — Pikenin astonishes us with an acrobatic feat — "Crocodile Nest" — Supper at Mapandas— A novel way of destroying rats — Off again and naeet some game on the way — Outspan at Muda — Our night's rest disturbed by lions ...... 149 CHAPTER VI. Vexatious trouble with the horses — Buffaloes — A natural zoological garden — A dash in a crocodile pool — Lions dangerously close — Rest at last — Mr. Ehodes shoots a zebra — A wild rush — The Premier chased by a "lion". 159 CHAPTER VII. Sarmento — The apes watch us bathing — We have to abandon one of our carts — Packing and unpacking — Difficulties grow and I am attacked with despondency — We resolve to give vip our second cart also — A lion kills one of our horses — Beautiful palms, but bad water . . . 170 CHAPTER VIII. A dreary search for water — Anxious hom-s in the dark — A happy meeting — The Major challenges me to a rasli plunge — We meet Bowden, who appears ill — I lose my dearly-loved pony ....... 179 CHAPTER IX. Annoyance at the hands of our boys — We pass a Portuguese Lema ; he travels in state — How the natives salute one another — Traces of the tsetse -fly — No pleasure in a bamboo forest — I lose some of my baggage — Chimoyo at last 189 CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER X. PAGE Bartering with Kafirs — Our followers begin to feel fatigued — I stick to my portmanteau in spite of Mr. Ehodes' generous offers — Major Johnson is charged by a wild ox — How a Kafir smokes — A lovely halting-spot . . 192 CHAPTER XI. An historical show — The scene of a battle — ^Massi-Kessi — On the track of the ancient gold-seekers — We plan to sleep outside the tent, but are discovered by our Premier — Some thrilling lion stories ..... 199 CHAPTER XII. We cross the Umtali Mountains — A good night's rest — Our Kafir boys leave us, but Pikenin and Matokwa choose to stick by their present masters — An accident to Pikenin — I am thrown into a pool — Our boys frighten the Kafir women — A Kafir burial-place . . . 208 CHAPTER XIII. Beautiful farm sites — Eccentricities of Kafir hair-dressing — We take shelter from the storm — Left without food — Major Johnson loses his bet ..... 215 CHAPTER XIV. Marandella's kraal — A touch of fever — More thunderstorms — We enter Salisbury, and I inspect the stores awaiting me there — Misfortunes and losses — Captain Tyson more generous than is needful — My tent-mate . . . 221 Xvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XV. PAGE Salisl)iiry — A. visit to tho auction sales — The Premier has dissatisfied deputations to deal with — Many officers but no privates — £35 worth of champagne at a sitting — Unpleasant visitors — King Solomon's mines . . 227 CHAPTER XVI. Lord Randolph Churchill — An ancient gold-seeker — Political discussions — I grow warm, and give the English ex- Chancellor my views without fear or favour —The Blue Rock Reef — Dr. Jameson and I inspect an old mine — Lord Randolph shows he can cook .... 234 CHAPTER XVIL The Rothschild Mines — Output of gold — How Lobengula treated his advisers — Traces of the Phcenicians — Lemon- trees — Crossing the Hunjani River — Hunting the Setsie- bies bucks — I prefer to shoot nothing to being shot — We have to return empty-handed ..... 240 CHAPTER XVm. Hunting again — The Premier Nimrod this time — Adventure with a crocodile — -Mr. Scott's narrative — Our oxen missing, and we are all out of humour — A tropical storm 246 CHAPTER XIX. The Umfuli River — Ant-heaps a thousand years old — The climate of Mashonaland — The Makalaka Kafirs — A meeting in the wilds with friends — Young colonists — Captain Tyson's stores are replenished — We receive a visit from Mr. Selous and travel on the road he con- structed—More lion stories ..... 251 COXTEXl'S. XV 11 CHAPTEll XX. I'AGK lleinaiks ou Mashonalaiul — The natives' fear ot' the Matabele — A profitable exchange — 'The houses of the Mashonas — Their fondness for rats as food, and surprise that we do not share it — How the climate compares with other parts of South Africa -251 CHAPTER XXF. Formatiuu of rocks at, Fort Victoria — Lord lumdolph Churchill's opinion of the Mashoualaud Gold Mines — Will not accompany us to the rains of Simbabe — I cannot understand such conduct in a news-correspondent — He invites the Premier and myself to be his travelling ■ •cimpanions, but Ave refuse ..... 2H3 ClIAPTEE XXll. We start lor Simbabe — A perilous ford— The great Simbabe temple — We find our arrival is expected, and don't altogether like our reception at first — Explanations make all clear — We climb the v.all.-i — An early cup of coffee . 268 CM A ITER XXI 11. l)cctiu;4 Simbabe — Mr. and ^Irs. Bent's discoveries — Early history of Simbabe — Supposed to be built by Solomon — The connection of the ]\Ioors with Simbabe — Pearly gold tields — Sun worshippers there probably — The ancient prosperity of Simbabe tn be surpassed in the future h XVlU CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIV. \Vc return to uur travels — Tlie tliriving condition of the Simbabe Kafirs — Their prettj' children — The little ones suspicious of the meat-tins — One of our animals taken ill — A visit to Dickens' Gold Reef — Stamping the quartz — Dr. Jameson displays his horsemanship and comes to srief . . .284 CHAPTER XXV. A new team — Mr. Lange, Cajitain Tyson and I are teamsters — A mad rush down hill — A bathe in the Crocodile's pool — Providential Pass; in the haunts of the gold- seekers — Long's Reef — Mr. Long can give reasons for his actions — L'ird Randolph much in error . . . '2HV) CHAPTER XXVL Again on the march — An accident to my portmanteau — 1 am sad in consequence — A hard alternative before Roeping and January — We interview Chibe to learn the truth about the Adendorff Concession — An uphill climb — Chibe does not confirm the Concession — We learn more details about Lobengula — My new boy . . , 290 CHAPTER XXVIL Captain Tyson's dip — How Mr. Vluggi lost his way — A grim game — A meeting with some disappointed diggers — The scene of young Hackwell's death — A hunt before breakfast, in -which we see traces of much game, but shoot none — I shoot an alligator — Captain Tyson proposes a race — I accept the challenge and come ofi" victorious . 310 CONTENTS. XIX CHAPTER XXVIII. PAGK Secluded huts — Evidence of a struggle between animals — A view of a huge crocodile — Captain Tyson deceived — Ht- has a nasty fall — At the Boobi River — A needed bath — The snake hunts the cayman and the boys hunt the snake — Van Riet's wonderful adventure . . . 321 CHAPTER XXIX. A koodoo shot — Mr. Rhodes' light waggon — I over-jjersuade my companions, and we all start together for Bechuana- land — Pikenin leaves me — On the track of our previous journey — An invitation at Macloutsi in which I am not included 330 CHAPTER XXX. We leave Macluutsi— Meet Khama — At Palapye — Tlie chiefs grievances — I do not enjoy the rule of John Gilpin, and reproach my companions — A little excusable exagoera- tion in my complaints — Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange left behind — Matabele boys — Arrival at Notwani . . 339 CHAPTER XXXI. Plenty of room in the coach — Lord Randolph and the mules — My anxiety not to disturb his lordship's rest — A rapid run to ]\Iafeking — The troubles of fame — Mr. Rhodes makes a speech at Fourteen Streams — At Kimberley . 345 WITH liHODES IN MASHONALAND. PART I. CHAPTER I. We set out — My travelling companions — Met by Maukoraau — The chiefs complaints — Sir Henry's presents are rejected — Vrijburg — We witness a Kafir wedding at Mafeking — A visit to Muutsioa. On the 2na of October, 1890, the Hon. C. J. Pihodes, M.L.A., Mr. M. M. Venter, M.L.A., and myself— in company with the Governor of the Cape Colony, Sir Henry Locli, and his party — left Kimberley by special train for the north at half-past eight in the morn- ing, and arrived at Taimgs, Mankoraan's chief town, at one. There we pitched a large tent and had our lunch under it. Shortly afterwards, Mankoraan and eighteen of his indunas, with a retinue of a thousand men on horseback, made their appearance at our camp. They came to welcome the Governor, and to confer with him on certain matters regarding their land. 'J'he scene of B 2 WITH JUIODKS IN MAS/I ONALAND. their approach wan an imposing one, and the subse- quent interview very interesting. Mankoraan, who, upon the invitation of the High Commissioner, was the first to speak, started at once complaining in bitter terms that sufficient land had not been left to him and his people, and said that, if better provision were not made for them, they would starve, etc., etc. The Governor then pointed out to him that, according to the last census returns, not only had his property as well as the number of his people during recent years vastly increased, but his kingdom had never before been in so prosperous a condition, and that, had the Euglish Queen not taken him and his tribe under her protection, they would very probably by that time have been expelled from the land by the stroDger negro tribes, as had been the case with Massouw. Mankoraan shook his head. " No," grumbled he, " the Queen has not protected us, but has deprived us of our land and handed much of it over to the Transvaal." " But," asked Sir Henry, " what is it that you want ? Do you want us to retake the land already granted to the Transvaal, and so plunge into war with that country ? " " Well, I can't help it if that follows," he replied, " but I must have more land." " H yoQ had fallen under the protection of the Transvaal, would you have been better off than you are ? " the Governor asked. '• Certainly," was the answer ; " I would have been treated far better." The Governor now was silent for a while. Indi<^- MANKORAAN IS STUBBORN. 3 nation at the ingratitude of the negro chief was to be read upon his countenance. At length he replied, " I shall mention your complaints to Sir Sidney Shippard " (the Adminis- trator of Bechuanaland), " and see what he can do for you." He then turned to the counsellors of the bhick ruler and told them that if they had anything to ask or state he would lend a willing ear. The brother of Mankoraan thereupon took up the word and grumbled like the hitter — " too little ground ! too little grass ! " This was indeed the gist also of all the succeeding speeches. The royal deputation having exhausted their com- plaints, tlie High Commissioner, to prevent if possible the existence of any ill-feeling, offered to make Man- koraan a small present — giving him his choice of either a horse, a saddle and bridle, a watch and chain, a telescope or a rifle. *' No, thanks," said Mankoraan, shaking his head ; " I shall take nothing for nothing. If I want anything I'll pay for it, for if I accept your piesent you will only deprive me of more land." " I think Mankoraan has mistaken me," said Sir Henry to the interpreter, so as to clear away any possible misunderstanding. " I mean to give him a present, not to change with him." " Oh, I understood the Governor well enousfh." replied the chief, "but I rej)eat I will have nothing from him fur nothing." At this the High Commissioner changed colour. " Tell the chief," he said, " that Her ^Fajesty's B 2 4 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. High Commissioner gives, but does not take, and tell liim that because of his uncourteous reply he shall get nothing — and now you may all go," concluded His Excellency. His black majesty thereupon rose with his odoriferous adviser;!, shook Sir Henry's hand and those of some others, and left the tent. They mounted their horses, and off they went, horses and riders, in a cloud of dust. Upon the departure of those honourable visitors and their followers, we had to decide between two things — to sprinkle the tent with eau-de-Cologne in order to remove the odour the Kafirs had left behind, or to haul down the tent altogether and proceed on our journey. We chose the latter course. Naturally, our topic for the next hour or so was the attitude of Maukoraan. Our Premier was of opinion that the sooner the people of MaDkoraan be com. polled to work for the farmers instead of being allowed to cluster together in thousands and do nothing, the sooner they would learn to their advantage that it was the duty of every man, be he black or white, to earn his bread by toil — and shepherds and labourers were just then what farmers were most in need of. I, too, felt — and ]\Ir. Venter shared the feeling with me — that there existed far too much ungratefulness and im- politeness in Mankoraan and his men towards their benefactors. They should be forced to do labour under the farmers. The sooner Bechuanaland is annexed to the Cape the better, not only for those lazy lords per- sonally, and the country in which they live, but for the general civilisation and prosperity of the land. The veld and cattle there appeared in excellent CHARACTER OF THE VELD. 5 conditioD, and instead of finding Bechuanaland — as I had always previously had an idea it was — a land of limestone, baboons and vultures, I found it a grand country for cattle and sheep-farming, as well as, to some extent, for agriculture. We were now travelling through narrow passages, I)ast hills, across valleys, and over plains. IMr. Venter repeatedly expressed his amazement at the wonderful adaptability of the veld for cattle, and he is a man whose judgment should carry especial weight, for he is a great authority on stock-farming, being himself a stock-farmer who owns many thousands of acres of land in the Colesberg and Philipstown districts. But one did not need to be an expert in grass to discover the excellent quality of the veld we were now speeding over : anyone who was not blind and who knew any- thing at all about veld could see it for himself. Al- most all the way from Kimberley to Vrijburg the land is excellently suited for cattle and sheep. At half-past four, and within about a mile and a lialf from Yrijburg, we had to leave the train, as the railway had not yet been completed to the village. All was life here. Dozens of vehicles stood ready to convey to the village the party that had just arrived. Pretty spring waggons, waggonettes, dogcarts, landaus and spiders, all drawn by fine strong horses, were to be seen ; and amongst the number who came to bid us welcome many a gentleman in tile, gloves and eye- glass, and in every respect dressed in the latest fashions, was to be observed. " Goodness me ! " I thought, " how do we with our grey broad-brimmed felt hats look in contrast with them ! " 6 WITH RHODES IN MASTIONALANB. We drove off to the little town, and there numbers of flags were waving in honour of the visiting paity. Ilavinir listened to the addresses read to the Governor — a lot of ceremonial nonsense — each hurried to his boarding-house to take, what the dusty way had caused him sorely to need — a good bath. Mr. Venter and myself put up at Advocate Allen Fraser's,* who, together with his gracious wife, treated us exceedingly well. At evening we took a stroll through the village and were surprised at seeing such fine strong buildings, such big hotels and commercial houses, and so neat a townhouse. The following morning vve weut to see the prison, a building ornamental to the place and certainly one of the finest of its kind in South Africa. To the principal springs of Vrijburg we also paid a visit, and they too excited our admiration. At a small expense the town might be very abundantly provided with water. The soil there is fertile : almost anything would grow and thrive in it. Indeed, I think that Vrijburg is bound in the near future to become an important city whence hundreds of tons of wool will yearly be ex- ported. We met several farmers there who had come from various districts to pee the Governor, and to express their desire of having Bechuanaland annexed to the Cape Colony. They told us that they found Bechuanaland one of the finest countries for cattle and sheep they had seen. Some of them besought us to visit their farms in order to ascertain for ourselves the nature of the land. A Mr. Steijn assured us that, in spite of a drought of eight months' duration which his * Adv. Fraser died last year (1895). — Transhitor. VISIT TO VRIJBURG. 7 part of the country had just been undergoing, he was plentitiiUy supplied with milk and butter, and his cattle were as fat as they could be. Besides, his last crop had yielded him thousands of oatsheaves, and he was expecting between 400 and 500 bags of corn ; this two other farmers confirmed. And, I must say, not a single farmer out of the dozens with whom I came in contact described Beclmanaland otherwise than most favourably as a country for cattle, sheep and cultiva- tion. Thus Mr. Venter's opinion regarding the pro- ductive character of the land was amply affirmed. The farmers expressed their desire to establish a branch of the Africander Bond in Bechuanaland, but they somewhat feared doing so owing to the country being a Crown Colony. With the aid of Advocate Fraser, however, and the assent of Sir Sidney Shippard, who will certainly have no objection to it, I am sure that ere long British Bechuanaland will also have a branch of the Bond ; this would be the cause of greater political life amongst the farmers, and we would then hear more of them and their country than we do now. Before leaving Vrijburg we were entertained at a dinner at \\hich some interesting speeches were delivered. The speech of our Governor was appre- ciated much, but that of our Premier more, for his was a political one. Numerous other speeches followed, some very selfish and some strongly Jingoistic — some pleaded for their pockets and some for the continuance of Bechuanaland* as a Crown Colony rather than its * Bechuanaland was annexed to the Cape Colony durini:^ the last session (1895) of tlie Cape Parliament. — Translator. 8 11777/ nil ODES IN MASHONALANT). being annexed to the Cape, wliere there were so many ]>ondsmeu wlio had so much to say ! The speeches that pleased lis most were those delivered in true South African spirit by Advocate Fraser and Attorney Wessels, whose sensible arguments carried no small amount of force with them, and at the same time revealed the men we were some day to find the repre- sentatives of Bechuanaland in the Cape Parliament. On leaving Yrijburg we entered upon auother fine, fruitful tract of country, and on our way we met several farmers, amongst whom was a Mr. Rood, formerly of the Colesberg district, who, together with his wife and a couple of children, was living in the open veld in a waggon and tent. We asked him what he thought of the veld. " Oh," said he, " the veld is as good as at Colesberg, and here I have an unlimited extent of land at my disposal, whereas in the old colony my land had become too narrow for me. As to my cattle and sheep, they are in a very good condition." " And have you sufficient water for your cattle ? " we next inquired. He assured us that he had more than he needed, and that water was to be got anywhere at a depth of six or eight feet. "The land is fiat and even," he continued, " and rains are very copious from December till the end of March. Every farm is plentifully supplied with water; should there not be enough on the surface, dams might easily be laid out." Mr. Venter and myself then partook of coffee with the kind old gentleman and his wife, and we left him Ingbly pleased. Afterwards, we passed through Mari- THE CHIEF MOSEETTE. 9 bogo, a large Kafir town, rich in soil and in cattle and sheep as well as in water. The following Sunday night, the 5th of October, we lodged at the Messrs. Worsey's hotel, on this side of the historical town of the chief, Moshette. This town was the capital of the chief who, some years previously fought against the chief, Montsioa, and only gained the best of the war when some irresponsible Boers came to his assistance ; but, later, was again attacked by Montsioa and completely overcome. Out of this war arose the subsequent dispute about Land Goschen and Rooigrond, with which were connected the names of Great Adriaan de la Rey, Van Niekerk, Bethell, McKenzie, etc. ; and the quarrel did not terminate until British troops, under command of Sir Charles Warren crossed the border, and IMr. Ehodes, as mediator, brought about an amicable settlement of the matter between England and the Transvaal. It is chiefly through the instrumentality of our Prime Minister that McKenzie and his rabble were prevented from playing the master over the land. We journeyed from Kunana over a meadowy region, and arrived at Mafeking, about a hundred miles from Vrijburg, at eight o'clock. This little town also was in a bustle at the coming of the Governor. A grand dinner was given to His Excellency in the evening ; it lasted till past midnight — no wonder most of us complained of headache the following day. At Mafeking, too, we were struck at the fine new buildings, the well laid-out streets, the large stores and shops and the pretty townhouse and prison. A few years before, this place was nothing more than an insignificant 10 WTTTl BUOBES IN MASHONALANB. hamlet, Jiud now it was on the road to becoming a large flourishing city. Messrs. Rhodes, Lange, Venter and myself saddled our horses and rode to call on the old chief, Montsioa. The sun was just setting when we found the aged negro-ruler sitting in front of his little house on a small chair surrounded by some friends. Mr. Rhodes had a long and interesting chat with him on what had happened during the siege of his town. The veteran chief showed us some bullet-holes in his house made by the enemy as they were forcing their way into his town, who, however, were again beaten back. His recollections of the war were still very vivid ; and the name of Rhodes, too, he remembered well. The Premier had meanwhile been sitting on another little chair, and when he bade the chief good- bye, the latter gave him it as a remembrance of the visit. With this little present Mr. Rhodes was much taken up, and frequently made use of it on his further journey. To return his kindness, the Premier handed JMontsioa a few sovereigns for his church. Whilst this meeting was taking place, great rejoicing was going on amongst the young people in the Kafir town owing to a wedding that was taking place between a white Kafir — called by some "one of Bethell's sons," — and a tall black girl. Their chief amusements were music and dancing. The bride and bridegroom, typical barbarians, danced with wilder vigour than the rest. There was something attractively romantic, however, in the celebration, and it was certainly very interesting to look upon such a number of different faces of Kafir youth of both sexes. TTTE PAHTY DTVIDE. 11 On tlie eighth of the month we departed from ^Fafeking, leaving behind us everything that was not absolutely necessary on our journey. The Governor and his party with their waggons and horses had already left when we started. The two parties — that of the Governor and that of the Premier — chose different directions for tlieir journey ; the latter preferred to travel through British Bechuanaland into Kliama's country, whilst we selected, travelling via Marico, Transvaal. 12 wiTir nrroDEs in mabitonaland. CHAPTER II. Having parted from the Governor ami liis company, vpe start — Our waggons and their attendants — We spend our first night with an old hunter, and he and his household enlighten us as to Lobengula and his country — " Nelmapius " is best left alone — Willow Park. W'e set out from Mafeking with three neat spring- waggons, each drawn by a team of eight strong mules, and each supplied with both a driver and a rein-holder. Besides these, we had a folding cart drawn by four first-rate mules (the driver of which also held the reins) and five ponies which were ridden by our attend- ants, Bandmaster (our waiter) and Peter (our young guard). Tonie was our cook. The tourists were — beside the Premier — Mr. Venter, Mr. Eduard Lange (brother of the advocate), and myself. To Mr. E. Lange the charge of the waggons was entrusted. In this way we had already travelled from Vrijburg, where we overtook our waggons, which had been sent in advance from Kimberley, and this arrangement having been found to work well, we hoped to continue our journey in this manner for the rest of the trip. The first night after our parting with the Governor we spent at De Piitten, a farm of which an old Mr. OUR FIE ST NIQET. 13 Viljoen is the proprietor, situated close to the border of the Transvaal. This grey-haired gentleman of over eighty, who seemed particularly taken up with Mr. Venter's company, told us a great deal about IMashonaland. He himself had been an inhabitant of Mashonaland, he said, since 1849. Hunting had always been his chief pursuit, and through it he had naturally gained great experience of the country. Three of his sons, who had fallen victims to fever in the low land, lay buried there. " But," said he, " I love Mashonaland ! it is the prettiest country that I ever saw. I am acquainted with the Cape Colony, the Free State, and the Trans- vaal, but Mashonaland beats them all." "Why did you not stay there, then?" inquired Mr. Venter. " Well, because I was afraid that war would break out, and I should not have liked my horses, oxen and sheep to fall into the hands of the Kafirs. Ehodes's people have crossed into the land of Lobengula, and have planted forts there as if the land is their own, but this the fearless Kafirs will not tolerate. As for Lobengula, he is as deceitful a devil as his uncle Dingaan used to be, who murdered the brave Piet Retief and his men, and followed up the slaughter by attacking the defenceless Boer camp and mer- cilessly massacring every mother and child in it. Oh, I know that nation too well; they are as false as they are tyrannical. Look how little they value the lives even of their own people, and how they constantly plunder the weaker tribes and carry off the women and children! But Nshen the month of February is past. 14 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. and if war Ly that time has not been declared, I shall return to that beautiful country." "It is a pity, old friend," observed Mr. Venter "that age has already such a hold on you, else you might assist Mr. Ehodes in the event of war breaking out." " Old ? " repeated the grey-haired man with an air of pride ; " if Khodes wants to fight that tyrant, who has been playing the bully for so long a time, then I and all of us shall go and help him, and I think I will fell more of those cruel naked animals than any of you will." •' Yes," added the old lady, who had been listening with keen interest to the conversation, " what my husband says I can confirm. He seldom misses a shot, and he still rides his horse like a young man." "But," said Mr. Venter, " do you think it is right of Mr, Ehodes to deprive the Matabele of their land ? " "Certainly," she replied with emphasis, "and none but he can. That unfeeling, treacherous Lobeugula, who has slain his brothers and captains out of mere covetousness of their wealth, should be brought to his wits ! But all have been afraid of him ; now, howevei-, Rhodes has come, and he is not afraid, and a man who is not afraid we must assist. But then, we want him to grant our people farms, and will he do that ? " "Oh, yes," answered Mr. Venter, "of that I am convinced." " Then I am sure," the old lady replied, " that both my husband and my children would be glad to join in the war," We left them and returned later in the evening. The old couple had already gone to bed, but a son of MORE ABOUT LOBENGULA. 15 theirs and a son-in-law (Mr. Fourie) were still up enjoying a pipe. These latter, also, could not speak enough about the excellence of Mashonaland, and affirmed every word that had been told us by their lather and mother. They, too, appeared very desirous to trek to Mashonaland. They wished from the bottom of their hearts that war should arise between the heart- less Matabele chief and the "chie[" of the Chartered Company. " But," I asked, " don't you think it would be very difficult to subdue Lobengula ? " " No," was the reply, " Lobengula is such a tyrant, and he is so hated by all Kafir tribes, even by a portion of his own, that I have no doubt some 1500 or 2000 men would immediately be in arms against him if called to assist in putting him down. All are aware, too, that he possesses a magnificent country, rich and extensive; and, just as our aged father and ourselves are willing to take up our guns to assist in depriving him and his nation of all power, so there are thousands of farmers in the States and in the Colony prepared to do the same if only they are rewarded for their truuble." "But," I next asked, "do you not think it would be unjust to expel him from his land? " " Decidedly not," the two unanimously answered. " You people from the Cape are nut aware," continued one of them, " of the cruel, inhuman deeds Lobengula and his men have committed, and are still committing." Then we were told a little of the shocking Matabele history, which was afterwards also related to us by a missionary, and to which I shall return. 16 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. Perceiving the influence Morpheus now began to exert on our informants — revealed, by yawns and stretchings — we bade them *' good-night " and retired to our waggons. The following morning I arose with a terrible head- ache due to that mealie-mixture called "Nelmapius," which we had drunk the night before. I never could drink that stuff — and I know of very few who could — without suffering some bad effect. Such a headache as I had that day I don't remember ever having before. Since then I have never again touched a drop of the liquor, — at least, not knowingly. Well, to return to our travel, the sky that morning was dark with threatening clouds and the air severely cold. Leaving De Putten, we crossed tlie Transvaal border into the Marico district, and at ten o'clock arrived at Mr. Taylor's, Willow Park, a lovely farm provided with abundant water and with rich arable land, a great part of which was under cultivation. Trees, too, were plentiful there. These, together with the large comfortable dwelling-house, combined to make the place a most pleasant abode. After partaking of a substantial breakfast, we took a walk about Mr. Taylor's place. The gardens, the fruit trees, the fine lands — all looked beautiful indeed. And Mr. Taylor was not behind the times in the farming implements he employed ; he had his own threshing-machine and corn-mill. He had just mown his fields, had gathered thousands of oatsheaves, and was expecting some eight hundred bags of corn. He told us he would not accept less than £11,000 for his farm. THE MISSION- STATION AT IKALAFIJN 17 On returning from onr walk Mr. Taylor had bis spider and cart unspanned, and brought us to the pretty mission-station of Ikalafijn, situated in a large valley between two hills. The neatly-built Kafir huts and the fine gardens surrounding them make a very pretty appearance. The brook, that feeds the town of a population of about ten thousand, runs through it. Its inhabitants, exclusively Kafirs, wear clothes, and in all respects the village is a credit to ]\[issionary Janssen in particular, and to the Transvaal i]i general. In the missionary's garden some fine lemons, citrons and oranges were to be seen. We ate some and were provided with a quantity for our journey. Thence we returned to Willow Park. 18 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTER III. Buispoorfc — Travellers' tales not all gospel' — We outspan at a German missionary's — More harrowing details about the chief of the Matabele — A literal dance of death — We have our first misadventure — Kafir beer better than Nelmaplus. We left Willow Park at three in the afteruooa and arrived towards evening at Buispoort, a narrow vale between two hills, and very densely wooded. There we spent the night. Continuing our journey the following morning, our next outspan-place was at My. Niemand's. That gentleman told us that a brother of his, shortly before, whilst attempting to cross the Limpopo, was drawn into the water by a crocodile and never seen again. From there we passed on to IMr. Kirton's, which we- reached within half-an-liour, and here we were sorry to discover that we had made a mistake in outspanning at Mr. Niemand's, for Mr. Kirton had not only forage • ready for our horses and mules, but had a breakfast prepared for us. Unfortunately we had already had' our morning meal at Mr. Niemand's. Departing from Mr. Kirton's in the afternoon, we passed through a tract of country well \n ooded and THE GERMAN MISSIONARY. 19 grown with a tall dry grass fit for cattle. We left Mr. Rhodes at Mr. Kirton's, he arranging to follow us a little later on, which he did two hours after- wards. We rested the night at Brakfontein. It had been warm during the day, so our horses and mules were weary and thirsty, and to our disappoint- ment we learnt from some transport-riders that the water there was very brackish and would certainly injuriously affect our animals if they drank too much of it. But, when once the poor creatures got to the water, they drank as much as they could hold ; yet they were able to consume at evening as much forage as usual, and they trot away the following morning with no less vigour than they did the morning before. When one travels he should not attach much weight to all the alarming representations of danger made to him. The following morning we outspanned at a (lorman missionary's, close to a Kafir location, Ylijsfontein by name. We were invited into the house and ahnost forced to take breakfast there whether we cared to do so or not. The missionary was poor — a fact of which there was no want of indication — but a man more genial and kiudhearted it is impossible to imagine. He spoke Kafir fluently, and conducted service for the natives in a small temple every morning. His pay he received from Germany. He had many interesting stories to tell us about Lobengula. He knew that monarch well, and had several times been in his town. Not long ago, said. the missionary, Lobengula had given a dancing-feast (J 2 20 WITH BE ODES IN MASEONALAND. to his people that lasted three days. One of the chiefs fondest young wives, who had taken a lively part in it, became tired of dancing and therefore bugged him to allow her a little rest and refreshment. This the king refused, with the command, " Dance on ! " It was then already noticeable that " Lo Ben " was displeased with the desire of his favourite. She obeyed his order, but returned to him a little while afterwards and said to him : " I should like to know whether you, if you were in my place, and were compelled to dance without stopping, and without eating or drinking, would have been able to do it." At once the peevish king was in a rage, scolded her, commanded his counsellors immediately to assemble, and sentenced her to death. The poor girl fell down at the monarch's feet, prayed for pardon, and told him she had not intended to ofifend him by what she had uttered. She caressed him and in every possible way endeavoured to excite his pity, but in vain. The bystanders, too, were bold enough to plead for her, but the stubborn chief was not to be moved. The hapless young woman was led out and beaten to death with knobkerries, and, as was the custom to do with those who wronged the king, her body was cast out- side the town to be devoured by vultures. On another occasion — and here the missionary was himself a witness — some young Kafirs and Kafir girls, who had joined in a dance, were falsely reported to the king, by some of their enemies, to have been guilty of immorality. Now, the only punishment for immorality was death. Lobengula summoned to his MATABELE CRUELTIES. 21 presence at Buluwayo all the young men who had taken part in the dance, found twenty of them guilty, sentenced sixteen to death, and ordered the ears and noses of the remaining four to be cut off. Another event that only too clearly manifested the vicious character of the Matabele monarch was the murder of his brother. Perceiving how wealthy the latter was becoming, Lobengula feigned to be suffering from gout, and ascribed the cause of it to witchery on his brother's part. Immediately thereupon it was resolved to slay the supposed offender, and the resolu- tion \vas carried out without delay. When those enjoined to do the cruel deed came to the innocent man and informed him of their orders, he said : " This is only what I have long expected. My possessions are many, and I know who covets them ; well, here I am — kill me ! Bat save my body from the vultures ! " They brought him out and slew him with their knobkerries. This done, his wife was seized and dealt with similarly. Being of royal blood, Lobengula's brother was put into a grave, but his wife's body was thrown to the birds of prey. Leaving Vlijfontein, our road took us over a rugged mountain-pass, on the one side of which was a deep precipice. It cost us considerable trouble to get across with our heavily-laden spring waggons, and when we at last reached the foot of the mountain on the other side, we discovered that the pole of one of the waggons had broken. On the suggestion of I\rr. Venter, a thorn-tree was cut down, stripped, and tied against the broken pole by means of strong leatlier 22 WITH nnoDKS in mastionaland. straps. This plan answering admirably, and all being in order again, we once more proceeded comfortably on our way. The next place we halted at was a Kafir location — a large group of straw huts — situated on the Marico Kiver and peopled by Matabele. They spoke Zulu ; and Mr. Ehodes, who had spent several years of his earlier life in Natal, and had consequently learnt the language, carried on some conversation with them. He wanted to buy a waggon-pole from them, but there were none in the whole place, except one belonging to an old waggon, the owner of which was not at home. We next asked whether they could obtain any beer for us, and hardly had the request fallen from our lips, when off ran some Kafir girls to their huts, and returned with heavy, hollowed calabashes on their heads, filled with Kafir beer. The day being hot, we enjoyed the drink immensely, and we gave the donors ample reward for it, a kindness they much appreciated. Our Premier wanted to know from them why they, Ijeing Matabele, were living on Transvaal territory. This was explained to him. The chief of the location was a brother of Lobengula, and he used to live in ]\Iatabeleland ; but when the news of the murder by Lobengula of his other brother reached his ears, he fled during the night, with all his family and followers, into the Transvaal, and settled on this side of the Marico River, where he knew he was beyond the grasp of the envious monarch. Later on he applied to the Govern- ment of the South African EejJublic to be allowed to dwell there undisturbed. This was of course willin<^ly granted, provided he subjected himself to the laws ANOTHER SON OF M08ELIKATSE. 23 of the State and regularly paid the required annual taxes. This petty chief, like Lobengula, is a son of Moselikatse and a relative of the bloodthirsty Dingaan, whose history in connection with tlie massacre of Piet Ketief and his followers is well known to all of us. We left the location, and halted next on the bank of the Marico, whence we continued our course up the side of the river, both banks of which were grown with trees, tall grass, and thorny shrubs ; but the ve Id round about looked miserable. 24 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTEE IV. The banks of the Limpopo — Mr. Rhodes a good shot — Mr. Venter fails to imitate a lion — An unsuccessful mid duck hunt — Arrive at Palla's Camp, and again meet the Governor. At noon on the loth of October we arrived at the junc- tion of the Limpopo and Marico rivers. The Limpopo — or Crocodile, as it is called by many — is a magnifi- cent stream, densely grown on both sides with heavy trees of all descriptions. The view up or do\vn the stream, the banks of which are overhung with heavy green boughs, is most romantic, and pleasing to the eye of the traveller. We were now 1040 miles from Capetown. In the afternoon Mr. Rhodes and Mr. Venter w^ent out hunting. Clouds soon began to gather in the sky, and they grew heavier every minute. A few heavy raindrops announced the approach of thunder and lightning, and very soon thereafter the storm broke out and raged violently. The two hunters returned to the camp soaked to the skin, but they had not been out in vain. Mr. Rhodes brought with him five pheasants, and Mr. Venter a korhaan. In this way our pots were continually supplied with delicious birds. Mr. Rhodes is a good shot ; he seldom MENDING THE WAGGON, 25 returned from a bird-hunt without briuo-iuo- \\\\\\ him a number of partridges, pheasants or korhaans. The following day we were fortunate enough to come across, on our way, an abandoned cart, the axle of whicli was broken. We took the pole out of it and fitted it into our own waggon, and found it to serve its purpose capitally ; no waggon-builder could have helped us better. Early iu the afternoon we again outspanned on the river's bank, at a place called Harde Kool Boom — so called from a large thick tree close by, the stem of which had the appearance of burnt coal. We again travelled on, but only at a very slow speed, because Sir Henry Loch, whom we had agreed to meet at Palla's Camp, was still behind. We went out hunting in the afternoon, Mr. Rhodes and Mr. Venter choosing one direction, Mr. Lange and myself another. Instead of hunting, however, my friend and myself began measuring the sizes of trees and ant-heaps. We found thorn-trees and wild syringas of immense height, some of them measuring round the stem from twenty to twenty-five feet. The ant-heaps we measured were from fifteen to twenty-five feet high. We had been told at Kimberley that at the Crocodile we would meet with ant-heaps of that enormous size and had ridiculed the idea, but now we realised the fact with our own eyes; and though when we were told at Vrijburg that we would meet with trees, through the trunks ot which a path could be cut wide enough for a cart and pair of horses to be driven, we smiled in(!redulously, yet now we measured such with our own hands. 26 WITH RHODES IN MASEONALANT). Keturning to our waggons we suddenly heard a faint roar. My companion knew where it came from ; I did not. He stood still for a minute, and I was rather anxious to know what it was. I suggested, however, tliat we had better walk on. " No," replied Mr. Lange, " let us go and see what it is ! " But the difficulty he had to refrain from lau'^hino; was so obvious that I soon discovered the roaring was a sham. Just then Mr. Venter made his appearance from behind a thicket, bursting out into laughter as he did so. He intended to frighten me by imitating a lion, and he might have been successful in the attempt had Mr. Lange's eyes not discovered the would-be wild animal and thus betrayed the practical ioke, for who would have expected a man to roar amongst the bushes of that wild and solitary place ? The following morning, at ten o'clock, we out- spanned at a "pan" (lakelet), where hundreds of wild duck were to be seen. I took my gun and quietly crept towards the water, soon reaching a spot from which I could easily have shot some of the birds. Instead of firing at once, I foolishly first wished to make certain whether they were really wild duck. So I stood up and stared at them for a little, when away flew the whole lot of them ! They made their way towards the Limpopo, where I pursued them; and then they returned to the " pan." Hoping to be com- pensated for my trouble and loss of time, I again followed them. But how disappointed was I when, just as I was at the point of firing, Mr. Venter sent a bullet amongst them from a great distance, killing only one and causing the rest to fly aw'ay, whilst I ARRIVAL AT PALL A' S CAMP. 27 stood there with one of those old-fashioned muzzle- loaders charged heavily with water-fowl shot, with which I could easily have felled a dozen birds, if I had approached them a little nearer ! I felt greatly annoyed, but what could I do ? Mr. Rliodes had meanwhile shot seven snipe — a dainty tit-bit in the dish. From there we started for Palla's Camp. On our way thither w^e passed a small straw house, occupied by a white man, an Australian, whose acquaintance we afterwards made. Some distance on this side of the Camp we found a monstrous dead crocodile suspended to a beam. The animal, which had evidently been killed a couple of days before, was nailed through the mouth on to the wood, on which was written, " Welcome Sir Henry Loch ! " At one o'clock on Wednesday, the 16th, we arrived at Palla's Camp, situated on the Crocodile in Khama's country, and about 1070 miles distant from Cape- town and 430 from Kimberley. Here were stationed the British Bechuanaland Police and a number also of the Chartered Company. We waited there for the Governor, who arrived the following day with all his officers, hussars, spiders, carts, waggons, etc. " The more the merrier " the saying goes, but it certainly could not have been applied in this case. To travel with so large a company was rather a nuisance than a pleasure ; for, henceforward not only would all game in front of us be shot away — at least, chased away — but we would have to travel in a ploughed and dusty road. At Palla's Camp, where there was a telegraph and a 28 wrrn reodes in mashonaland. post office, wo all bad the pleasure of getting news from home, a privilege we had not enjoyed for eight days. We amply availed ourselves of the opportunity of sending away letters and telegrams. The offices there belong to the Chartered Company. Amongst the messages I sent home there was one to my youngest child, a boy of seven, that on my return home I would have a lot of tales to^ tell him about lions and crocodiles; but little did I then know the tidings I was to receive the following day. ( 29 ) CHAPTER V. Hunting iu clay — A visit to a Transvaal shopkeeper, and a look at a boa constrictor — How Grobbelaar met his death — ]\Iajor Sapte's compass not so useful as horses' hoofs — I receive very sad news from home— Pietje upsets Mr. Venter. Next morning Mr. Ehodes, IMr. Yenter, Major Sapte, and I went out hunting on horseback. We first rode to the little house of an Australian, who had promised to accompany us on our hunt and direct us to the game. The soil was loose and clayey, and was in consequence a source of great annoyance to us, as it stuck to our boots in clods whenever we dis- mounted our horses and walked. The party, on the whole, remained, however, in high spirits, and were determined to make the best of the chase. But I, individually, was of a different mind. Stepping in clay four inches deep was not much of an enjoyment to me, and, knowing what good shots the rest of the party were, and what little chance I therefore stood of killing anything, I decided to turn back to the camp. In the afternoon Mr. Lange and myself had our cart inspanned, and rode for an hour and a quarter to the other side of the Limpopo, on Transvaal soil, to a shop 30 WITE RHODES IN MASEONALAND. belonging to a Mr. Chapman. There we purchased some provisions and some Cape brandy, for which latter we were charged at the modest rate of twenty-one shillings per gallon ! The shopkeeper showed us a boa constrictor which he had dug out on the banks of the river two days before. It was twelve feet in length, and looked rather pretty and very clean, as it had just cast its slough. Mr. Chapman gave us a detailed account of how Grobbelaar had come to his end. Mr. Chapman him- self had been a witness of the collision between Grobbelaar and Khama's Kaiirs. He was perfectly certain, in spite of Sir Sidney Shippard's denial of the fact, that a Bamangwato Kafir had shot him. Mr. Grobbelaar received the bullet in the anlsle, and, if medical attendance had been rendered in time, his wound would very probably have healed ; but, as it was, a surgeon was not called for until inflammation had set in, which soon afterwards ended in the death of the farmer. On our way back to the camp we shot three pheasants, having now five in all. Arrived at the station, we found the hunters busy at their dinner, of which they partook rather eagerly, for they had had nothing to eat since the morning. Mr. Khodes gave us an account of the hunt. All along the Crocodile there is a dense growth of trees and bushes, and there is much resemblance between one part and another. The Australian evidently knew but little of the place, for he had not been living there long, and had never gone far away from his house. Consequently the hunters soon deviated a considerable distance from the SAD NEWS IN THE CAMP. 31 road, and when they wanted to return to it they were in a puzzle whether to go to the right or to the left. Most perplexed of all was the Australian " guide," who knew as little as the rest which way to turn. They alternately walked and rode now in this direction, then in that, in the forest, but could not discover where they were. Major Sapte, who had as strong faith in his compass as the Philistines in Dagon, repeatedly threw it down ; it showed north, south, east, Avest, but was of as little use as a mouse. The sun was meanwhile fast sinking in the west. ]\Ir. Venter, an expert in following footmarks, at last suggested that the party should turn back on the horses' footprints until they reached the road. This course was adopted, and the road at length discovered to the joy of all. They returned without having shot so much as a fly, and it was confessed on all hands that I had acted wisely in leaving them. A little later in the evening sad news reached the camp and put an end to the cheerful spirit of the party. At seven Mr. Ehodes informed Mr. Venter that he had just received a telegram from the Hon. J. H. Hofmeijr to the effect that Stavie, my little son, was seriously ill. On being told the news, a cold shiver ran through me. " How can that be ? " I said ; " only yesterday both Mr. Sauer and JMr. de Kock wired to me that my family were all well. — No ! an accident must have happened, and my Stavie is dead ! " Immediately I wired to my wife, to Mr. Hofmeijr, and to our doctor, to telegraph in detail what had happened to the child, and to conceal nothing from nie, 32 WITE RHODES IN MASEONALAND. whether he was alive or dead. The Governor, who deeply sympathised with me, kindly telegraphed to the authorities at Capetown to keep the wire open until my telegrams had been answered. Mr. Rhodes directed that the same should be done on his line ; and at eight the latter placed into my hand the telegram that told me of Stavie's death and the particulars connected with it. The boy had, along with a little cousin of his, of his own age (a daughter of the Rev. W. A. Joubert), been pushed along in a hand-cart in childish play by his sister, a little older than himself. The declivity of the road being great, the cart soon began to run with a force the little girl could not control, till one of the wheels struck against a projecting stone on the side of the road, causing the vehicle to fly out of her weak hands and com- pletely capsize. Little Rijkie Joubert arose, only having received a fright, but Stavie, with still a smile on his lips, lay a corpse. He had met with instan- taneous death, his neck having evidently been broken by the fall. The shock this news gave me can only be imagined by a father in similar circumstances. We left Palla's Camp in the morning of the 18th. In the afternoon Sir Henry tapped the telegraph wire and several telegrams were again received : I myself got four, all relating to my son's fatal accident and stating the arrangements that had been made for his burial. To think of going home would, of course, have been madness on my part ; for, to do so, I should have been obliged to wait nine days at Palla's Camp for the earliest postcart, and to spend another twelve on an ox-waggon on the way to Mafeking. PIETJE'S PROWESS. 33 As uight approached we again outspauned on a bank of the Limpopo, and in the beautifully transparent water running over the clear drift sand we enjoyed a bath. The view from there over the endless woods and verdure was a sight most picturesque. Thousands of sheep, goats and cattle from near and far came to drink water. The cattle looked particu- larly well, and one could hardly believe that scarcely any rain had fallen there during the previous eight months. The sheep, too, looked well ; they must make a pretty picture in the rainy season when grass is at its best. The veld was dry, but vastly better than that along the Marico lliver in the Transvaal. No wonder, therefore, that Transvaalers always have had such an envious eye on Khama's country. Judging from the numerous herds of cattle and sheep that we continually met with on the borders of the Limpopo, Khama must be exceedingly rich. It is indeed to be regretted that whites cannot obtain farms there. We passed the night at Brakpan — 1150 miles from Capetown — and travelled the following day through dense forests. We were now some distance ahead of the Governor's party. On our way we noticed at a distance two koodoos grazing — a bull and a cow. Mr. Venter, who was the tirst to catch sight of them, seized his rifle, mounted his grey horse, and, followed by Pietje, our valet, rode towards the animals at a gallop. Having approached them sufficiently closely, he sprang from his horse and was about to fire, when Pietje, who had come on at full speed behind, rode over him. The horse trod upon Mr. Venter, knocked the gun out of his hand, and slightly bruised his shoulder. D 34 WITH llllODEti IN MASUONALAND. The startled koodoos ran away at a short gallop and passed our carts at a distance of some 150 yards. Not wishing to spoil Mr. Venter's chance, I would not at first shoot at them from the cart, but IMr. Rhodes shouted, " Shoot at them ! Shoot at them ! " so I fired, the bullet striking the ground under the belly of one of them. Had I known that Mr. Venter had been ridden over by Pietje, 1 might have taken my time — might have got down from the cart, lain in ambush for the animals, and taken proper aim. Anyhow, I confess I should have made a better shot, and I feel ashamed of myself to think that I completely missed an animal as large as a mule at so short a range. Mr. Venter after the accident again pursued the koodoos for some distance, but had soon to give up the chase owing to the density of gro\\th round about the spot. He was fairly out of humour on liis return and felt strongly inclined to give Pietje a flog- ging, but the latter appeared in such a state of terror that he was let off with a scolding ( 35 ) CHAPTER VI. We arrive at Sofala — Journeying through a kloof — Too large a company has its drawbacks — Mr. Rhodes shows the strength of his resolution and gets drenched — The meeting with Khama — ^I'he chief's differences with the farmers — Khama's wife — Reflections on the country. At half-past seven we arrived at a place called Sofala, one of the prettiest places we had yet come to. The fig, the syriuga and various other trees grew there luxuriantly : prettier trees one could hardly see. Densely covered with a grand foliage of a peculiar kind, those broad, lofty trees present a stately aspect. Sofala lies on the slope of a mountain from the one side of which there runs from a spring a stream of water large enough to supply a great city. The water issues from underneath a rock and with such force that it could easily set a large mill in rapid motion. But, as it is, it is allowed to run waste into a marshy vale, tlie surface of which is of a very spongy character. We observed that many Kafirs and Kafir women from the neighbourhood fetched their water from there. Close to the fountain itself, however, no one is allowed to dwell, for Khama reserves the place for his cattle. I was surprised that the chief did not construct a dam there, nor does it D 2 36 WITH nnoDES in mashonaland. seem to have struck his subjects to do so. I am positive that ere long a village will be laid out there by wliite people. From Sofala we journeyed through a long kloof with high hills on each side, the soil of which appeared capitally suited for agriculture. Thousands of bags of corn might be produced there annually. Here and there we noticed a Kafir woman on the hill-slopes digging in the soil to plant mealies. At noon we outspanned under a few thorn trees. The day was hot, and there was no water for our horses and mules. At half-past tliree we again inspauned, and at six we reached Mahapi, a large pan, green and pretty, but containing hardly any water — so little, that when we had satisfied ourselves we could barely quench the thirst of our liorses and mules, and the poor animals of the Governor had to drink mud. It is on such occasions that the disadvantages attendant on travelling in large parties are most plainly evident. We left Mahapi at five o'clock the following morning, and had to travel on a road both sandy and heavy. Mr. Rhodes, Mr. Lange and myself at first sat upon the cart, but the poor horses had to exert so much strength in pulling the vehicle along that the Premier and I got down and walked. It was a pretty forest we were going through, and amongst the trees we passed there were some literally decked in yellow flowers which yielded a sweet perfume much like that of the common garden violet. As the road afterwards bwame easier for the animals, Mr. Ehodes and I again got into the cart. The next place we !^topped at was Malalola (or, the Vley, as some called it), a nice green spot over REAM A APPROACHES. 37 which a stream of clear water was running as strong almost as that at Sofala. The water ran into large pools, out of which our draught animals eagerly satisfied their thirst. The grassy valley abounded in different kinds of water birds, amongst them the snipe. Having all taken a bath in the cold water, which we extremely enjoyed, Mr. Rhodes began snipe hunting. He killed two; but how did he look when his sport was over? His suit was soaked with water from top to bottom, and besmeared with mud ; but this was only another minor manifestation of that conspicuous characteristic of his of carrying out what he has set his mind upon, no matter at what cost. At noon Khama, with a retinue of a hundred men on horseback, came out to meet us. The Premier, on noticing the approach of the chief, went to the tele- grajjh where it had been tapped, and engaged himself in despatching wires. Meanwhile the High Commis- sioner received the black ruler with all honour and respect. At half-past one the horses were saddled and the Governor and his train rode with Khania to his town. We followed. The road tiiither was not one to boast of; it was full of stones, stumps and other obstacles, but at last we crossed a small nek and the great Kafir town of Palapye lay before us. It consisted of thousands of straw huts, but the trees in the town were so high that they concealed most of the dwellings from our view, and gave the place the aspect of a wilderness. In the centre there was a large open square. We could hardly at first sight believe that we were beholding a city of between 25,000 and 30,000 inhabitants. I was 38 WITir RHODES IN MASnONALAND. indeed surprised on closer inspection to see so many thousands of well-built huts together. These have all been erected within the previous eighteen months, their present occupants having formerly lived at Shoshong, which they abandoned owing, they say, to want of water and salubrity. Palapye, by virtue of its elevation, is a much healthier place than Shoshong, and it has its own running water, whilst at the latter place water had to be dug for. However, it miiy pretty safely be asserted that Khama would never have undertaken the treh to Palapye were it not that Palapye lay within the sphere of influence of the Chartered Company, and, consequently, under British protection. Before the Chartered Company had a hold on the land, Khama did not dare to move one mile nearer to Lobengula than he was ; but now, under the shelter of the white man, he has been enabled to shorten the distance between Lobengula's capital and his own by seventy miles. He is, therefore, under obligation to the British, and particularly so to Mr. Rhodes. We regretted to learn that, a few days previous to our coming, Khama had prohibited some Transvaal farmers, who had arrived there with waggons heavily loaded with corn, mealies, oatsheaves, etc., from selling to the British South African Company, and had ordered them immediately to quit his town under penalty of forfeiture of their produce. Khama had furthermore commanded Mr. Gifford not to buy anything from the farmers. If he did so, Khama would seize the pur- chased articles and drive the Company out of his land. No course was open but to obey, and the farmers with their full waggons and their thin oxen (for it was very ME. RHODES' PROPnECY. 39 dry just then) liad to i-eturn whence they came. Mr. Khodes, who was very annoyed on hearing this, asked Mr. Gifford the cause of Khama's attitude towards the farmers and the Company. ISlw Gifford ascribed it to the chief's hatred of the Boers, the reason assigned by Khama for which being that the farmers were in the habit of stealing a number of his cattle on their way home from his town — a tale which, of course, neither ]Mr. Ehodes nor Mr. Gifford would credit. We could not get in the whole of Palapye sufficient forage to satisfy the wants of our comparatively few draught animals. The little there was had to be care- fully and sparingly divided between Sir Henry's and our own well-deserving beasts — hence the reason why we so soon departed from the town. Sorely to be pitied must have been the cattle that visited Palapye shortly after our departure from it ! Indio-nant at Khama's conduct towards the farmers and dissatisfied with the meagre food our horses had received, T prophesied as we left the town that as sure as Khama lived his day of reckoning would come : only a little time more and his powers would be crippled, if not destroyed. Mr. Gifford repeated to the High Commissioner what he had told the Premier. What weight His Excellency attached to it I cannot tell ; but this I know, the Prime Minister's inter- course with Khama was as conspicuously little as the Governor's was the contrary. My personal estimation of the strength of the Baman- gwato chief is that, as sure as twice two are four, two hundred and fifty Boers would be able to capture his stronghold, and clear every living soul out of it within 40 WITH miODEB IN MASHONALAND. the space of twenty-four hours. The Baraangwatos appeared to us a weak, miserable lot. One Boer would put a hundred of them to flight. Palapye lies about 4500 feet above the level of the sea, and has therefore a pleasant climate. Khama dwells in a neat Kafir house, and has a passably decent, but uncomfortably fat, woman for a wife. He has a tall, slender, well-dressed and not bad-looking — as far as features go — sou of twenty-one, who appears however not to be worth much ; he looks a feeble good-for-notliing. Almost all Khama's people wear clothes. At Palapye, where there is a telegraph and a post- office, I received about half-a-dozen telegrams from home. The offices are built after Kafir style, for Khama objects to having square houses on his land. Palapye is 1185 miles from Capetown. ' We left the Kafir city at a quarter to seven, Khama an'd his son conducting Sir Henry out of the town with a train of riders. The way wound over hills and dales, and was exceedingly stony and stumpy. After an hour's journey over the roots and rocks Khama ceremoniously bade the Governor, lords, majors, captains, colonels and lieutenants farewell. The comedy was then over, and we travelled com- fortably on along an extensive and verdant valley on which we here and there observed a Kafir woman planting mealies. Through the middle of the valley runs the Lotsani Kiver, on the bank of which we outspanned after having covered fifteen miles from Palapye. After breakfast we continued our travel up the side of the river until we reached Tjopong, a place THE LOTSANI VALLEY. 41 situated on the slope of a mountain and ricli in verdure. It resembled Sofala to some extent, and, like fSufala, was an admirable site for a village. From there we had an extensive view far over the picturesque Lotsani valley, a valley some twenty-five miles long and six broad. Its soil being as fertile as soil can be, thousands of people should be able to gain their living out of it. Of the excellence of the veld on every side of the valley the condition of the cattle that grazed upon it afforded ample proof. It is indeed a pity that land which might yearly produce thousands of bags of grain, potatoes, beans, mealies and various fruits should lie uncultivated. But I hope and expect that that tract of land, which is now the habitation of the riet-buck and the red-buck, the guinea-fowl, the water- fowl and the bittern, will in time — and in time not far distant — be occupied and tilled by the white sons of South Africa. 42 WITH RHODES IN MASIIONALAND. CHAPTER VII. Leave Tjopoug — Wcoutspan and I goa-fisliing — A man saved I'lXim drowning — A talk with Sir Henry Loch. We left Tjopoug the following morning, and after crossing some hills, again outspannecl on the banks of the Lotsani. The Premier's party was the first to arrive at the spot, and we selected our outspan place beneath the sheltering boughs of three large wild fig-trees near to which there was a very large natural pool of water abounding in various fish, if not also in crocodiles. The weather was rather oppressive, and so at half-past ten, while Tonie was getting our breakfast ready, we went to refresh ourselves in the pool close by ; but, as we were wont to do in such strange waters, we were very careful not to go in too deep. After break- fast we began fishing, and the first fish I drew up was a barber, a creature as large as the " geelbek " (Cape salmon). Meanwhile the Governor had arrived with his party and outspanned not far from us. His reckless hussars very soon dashed into the water, and swam and dived without any regard to the probable presence of crocodiles there. I went on fishing. Dark clouds meanwhile gathered above my head and sent down some intermittent big drops. These were A HAILSTORM. 43 followed by a strange crashing noise in the air ; I ran to our waggons, and Mr. Venter advised me to im- mediately get into one of them, for the noise I heard was the signal of the approach of a hailstorm. I obeyed, and hardly was I in the waggon when down came the hailstones, some as large as pigeon eggs. Fortunately it was only a small portion of the shower that passed over us, the main part falling some miles off. When the bad weather was over I returned to the pool and found all my lish there still except the barber. I inquired after it, and discovered to my vexation that, after the barber had lain there for more than an hour, Pietje had taken it and repeatedly dipped its head in the water, with the consequence that it revived in strength and escaped from his hands into the pond. My fingers itched to box the fellow's ears, which 1 certainly would have done had he not outstripped me in the race that followed. I resumed fishing, but the air had been so chilled that the fish became too lazy to bite. Whilst still at my post, lamenting my loss, half-a-dozen hussars made their appearance at the pool, and, at the other end of it, jumped into the water. These men had arrived after the rest of the company, having been left in charge of the crippled and sore-backed horses. Our boys were now busy inspanning the mules, and a fish was meanwhile cautiously biting at my hook. Mr. Lange had already called me twice, but I was determined to haul up the tantalising creature before I left. Some noise from the other end of the pond reached my ears, but I was too interested in my 44 wrni Rhodes in mashonaland. fishing to pay much heed to it, until I phiiuly heard that it was a cry for help. I ran up to the place where the hussars had been bathing and, as I approached it, perceived a man's hand stretched out of the water whilst his comrades on shore appeared in great consternation. In a moment I threw off my jacket, waistcoat and boots, and without further un- dressing myself, leaped into the water. The drowning man had then already sunk, but I swam to the spot where I had last caught sight of him, dived to the bottom, and chanced to strike his body. I grasped him by the arm and brought him up. As soon as I had his head up a large quantity of water belched from his mouth, but his colour was blue, his head as well as his arms hung slack, and, as he did not make the faintest motion, I naturally believed the man was dead. Holding him up by the left arm, I managed to keep his head above water, and so swam shore wards with him. Mr. Khodes, Mr. Lange and Mr. Venter, who had suspected danger when they noticed me run to the spot where they knew the hussars had been bathing, now appeared on the scene. Mr. Venter threw his boots oft' and came to my assistance; and, together, we succeeded in bringing the man to the shore. I was then very fatigued, but felt pleased at having done my duty. The poor hussar revived in the hands of his comrades, recovered his senses, and soon was able to rise and walk away with the others, who all were now very quiet, and whose looks were mingled with joy and shyness. Returning to the waggons, Mr. Rhodes made me take some whiskv and soda to strengthen and ref'resli me. MR. RHODES GIVES ME ADVICE. 45 The Premier, who had been afraid that the drowning man in his distress would seize hold of my arras and drown me along with himself, praised my conduct, but at the same time warned me to be very careful on such occasions. I should not, said he, in any case have entered the water with clothes on ; for, had the distressed hussar in liis terror caught hold of my braces or anything else that I had on, it could only have had one result — the drowning of both of us. " But," said I, " I had no time to consider all this ; and had I lingered a few seconds longer the fellow would have perished." Yet, I must confess that there is much truth in what Mr. Rhodes said, and it was a fortunate thing for me that I had not sooner become aware of the man's critical position than I did, when, as above stated, he had already by exertion become completely exhausted. At two in the afternoon we started from there, and ended our day's journey in the evening at Brak River No. 1, where the water was bad and scarce, but suffi- cient for our horses. As for ourselves, we had no need to drink it, for we had brought with us from the Lotsani a plentiful supply in kegs and canvas bags. The Governor, his aide-de-camp Captain Bower, and the military officers now came to me to express their appreciation at my manly conduct, as they called it, for having rescued the life of the hussar. I asked them not to thank me. "I can swim," I said, " so it would have been cowardly conduct on my part to see a man struggling in the water for his life without going to his assistance. I have only done my duty." 46 WITH ERODES IN MABIIONALANB. CHAPTER VIII. An adventure with a lion — The weather not what we expected — Mr. Rhodes reminds me of my Grandfather — Sunday in the camp — Sir Henry goes out hunting, and Mr. Venter and I spend the morning tree measuring — We lose our way and meet some game which we fail to secure — The Premier the best sportsman. Continuing our journey the following morning in . cliilly weather, we arrived and outspanned at Brak Eiver No. 2. The river contains numerous deep pools, on the sides of which pretty shells were to be found. We met a handsome young Matabele there with a broad scar upon his back. The Prime Minister, who has a fluent command of the Zulu language, asked him how he bad received that mark, and " Lion " was his answ er. He then proceeded to relate his encounter with the king of animals. While hunting once with some of his comrades they met a lion, and, to overpower the animal, they surrounded it. Finding itself locked in on all sides, it rushed upon the Zulu (our informant) and with its paw tore a deep gash in his back. Fortunately for him, one of his fellow-sportsmen just then drove an assegai into the enraged animal, which thereupon abandoned the Zulu without using its teeth and fled ; but they had not THE LION BETUBNS. 47 seen the last of it: the proud beast, to avenge its wound, returned with renewed fury and again attacked tliem. A long and desperate fight ensued between the young adventurous Kafirs and the animal-king, endiner in the latter succumbing to exhaustion and the umerons assegai-wounds inflicted upon it — not, how- ever, before it had torn to pieces some of the best dogs of the hunters and had injured several of the latter, among whom our informant came off worst. From there we journeyed on to Mequeche, a pretty watering-place, where fine, fat, bastard sheep were to be seen grazing on the healthy veld. The night was chilly and the sky covered with clouds, whilst a bitterly cold wind was furiously blowing. We expected heavy rains, but Mr. Venter, a clever weather-prophet, assured us that not a drop would fall, for the wind was too strong and cold, and his prediction proved correct. The Hon. J. H. Hofmeijr (M.L.A.) had told us before we left Cape- town that we should prepare ourselves to meet with excessively hot weather in the region through wlii(;Ii we were now travelling. He would have been more correct if he had warned us to do the contrary. We had now to walk in overcoats. I must add, however, that we were assured by the natives of the place that the low temperature we were meeting with was exceptional for the season of the year. Our course next morning was through a rather dense wood and in a path full of stumps of hewn-down trees, a source of considerable inconvenience to us, our cart suffering repeated shocks. We were now far in advance of Sir Henry. At half-past nine we out- 48 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. spanned on the grassy border of the little Parkwe River, kindled a large fire, and seated ourselves around it. I was forcibly reminded, in the picture Mr. Rhodes presented sitting on his little chair by the fireside, of my departed grandfather, who was wont in the winter evenings to sit before his hearth and warm his hands over the fire. The Parkwe valley has a very rich soil. The low- lying plains round about are pretty densely inhabited and the liills beautifully adorned with trees. There is a small station at Parkwe. We outspanned not far from it, and close also to some large creraatart trees. We measured the trunks of three by means of a tape-line given us by Sir Sidney Shij)pard. They measured respectively 45, 46, and 47 feet in circum- ference, and Lord Elphinstone was so much taken up with their appearance that he took a sketch of them. It was Sunday and all was quiet in the camp. As evening approached a pile of wood was collected for the making of a " bonfire " — as the hussars called it — when darkness set in. At half-past eight the fire was made, and all the camp was lit up by it. The delight- ful warmth it afforded us was exceedingly appreciated, for the weather was very cold. K\\ seated themselves around the fire — some on chairs, some on footstools, some on benches, and others on the bare ground. The singing of sacred hymns followed, and it was glorious music to listen to in that lonesome wild, 1286 miles from Capetown. That grand psalm, " Psalm 100," especially, sung by the attendants of the waggons and by those of us who understood Dutch, could not but A HALT FOR HUNTING. 49 touch our feelings — miue in particular, tor my lost sweet child, who had then just been a week in his grave, was constantly present in my mind. The following day brought no change in the temperature. Heavy clouds still overhung the sky, this making the third successive day that the sun had been hidden from our view. Sir Henry Loch and all his party went out hunting. So also did Mr. Ehodes shortly afterwards, but in a different direction. Mr. Venter, Mr. Lange and I re- mained at the camp. Sir Henry's action did not alto- gether please us. The weather was fine for travelling ; we had a long journey still before us; and here we were detained for the pleasure of His Excellency, who, of course, would again shoot as little game as he did at Palla's Camp and. at the Lotsaui. At the latter place his hunt lasted half a day, and at the former a whole one. Anyway, we had to be content, for without the Governor we could not proceed ; and, if w^e could, we would have been obliged to wait for him at Macloutsie. After breakfast Mr. Venter and I, having nothing else to do, also decided to go out hunting. We walked through the river and came out upon a plain as level as a table and thickly grown with large trees, under which numerous footprints of various kinds of bucks were to be seen. AVe walked on till we came to a high elevation which we mounted, and from there we had a distinct view of our camp. At the foot of the hill stood some huge baobab or crematart trees, and beyond, as far as our eyes carried us, there was nothing but one vast, endless forest. We descended the hill and went to take the measure of the baobabs. E 60 WITH BHODES IN MASEONALAND. The circumference of the trunk of one of them was fifty-three feet, and that of another (six feet from the ground) sixty-five. These were the largest trees we had thus far met with. Fancy a trunk with a diameter of twenty-t\vo feet ! Some distance farther we met the two special reporters for the Cape Argus, along with the heliograph signalman. One of the three had clambered up a baobab tree to pick some of its fruit, but found the difficulty of making his way down greater than he had foreseen. It was amusing to watch the anxiety the poor fellow was in. The four of us beneath the tree stood ready to catch him should he tumble— a thing that appeared very probable. However, he landed safely on the ground. We each took some of the fruit \\ith us, the reporters and their associate return- ing to the heliograph hill. Mr. Venter and I again made for the camp, but, after having walked about two hours without reaching the banks of the Park we, we discovered to our dismay that we had lost our way. We turned back to another hill, and from the top of it we could see our waggons at a distance, as also a large herd of oxen and goats near us making their way to- wards the river. We descended the hill, entered the footpaths of these animals, and followed their direction. On the way we met the tutor of Sii- Henry's sou, who, like ourselves, had missed his way. We also came across three red-bucks of the size of donkeys, but, the growth there being rather dense, they disaj)peared from our sight before we could fire at them. At length, warm and weary, after having wandered about in the forest fully six houis, to our great relief we reached the THE GOVEBNOB BETUBNS. 51 camp, and spent the rest of the afternoon resting in a waggon. Towards sunset the Governor and his party returned from their hunt. Sir Frederick Carrington liad shot a steenbuck, and that was the only game the party was able to bring home with tbem. Sir Henry Loch and his son, I was told, had lired several shots at koodoos (antelopes of the size of young cows), and kwaggas (striped animals resembling the zebra), but all without success. It became late, and Mr. Rhodes and his two com- panions were still out. We felt rather uneasy about them and resolved to kindle a large fire when it grew darker, on a hill close by ; but before there was any necessity for it the three turned up, bringing with them eight pheasants and two korhaaus. Tonie had mean- while prepared an excellent dinner, and the hungry Prime Minister and his tired companions had no scant share of it. We did not see the Governor that evening, either because (I suppose) he felt fatigued and was lying on his couch, or because he was out of sorts at not having shot anything that day, and d,d nut feel in the humour for company. E 2, 52 WITH BHODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTER IX. " The place of death " — Macloutsie — Though man proposes, God disposes — A review of the British Bechuana police — Tele- graph facilities — A separation which Sir Heury Loch dis- approves — Mr. Khodes wishes to see Mashonaland, and we go forward. Leaving Parkwe on the morning of the 28th of the month, we again passed over veld ;of a good kind well grown with trees, and the next place we stopped at was the Marapong River. "Marapong" signifies " the place of death." This name was given to the river owing to the terrible fevers that once upon a time used to rage there and the many lives they carried off. The river is broad and deep and must be very strong when full. At half-past ten we came to Macloutsie, a large camp, where three hundred of the British Bechuanaland police and one hundred of the British South Africa Company were stationed. By these men we were well received, and were provided with everything we needed except drink. It surprised me to find so well built a camp in that wild part of the world, conisidering that the station was then only half a year old. It had a neat hospital under a galvanised roof, and amongst the few patients in it was a sou of Lord Elphinstone, who . LORD ELPHINSTONE'S SON. 53 had come along with Sir Henry. I need not say that the father was exceedingly happy to see his son, as also the son his father. The young man had been sent to that dark corner of the globe some months before to servo in the Army, to gather knowledge of the region, to gain distinction — in short, with much the same objects as induced the widow of Napoleon III. to send her son, the Prince Imperial, to Zululand in 1879, namely, of acquiring reputation and then to return with honour to his mother country. It had been expected that war would arise with the Matabele, and that the young son of Lord Elphinstone would thus have an opportunity of distinguishing himself, and I fully agree with those aristocrats who think it better to make their children useful for the world than let them be idle ; but then, " Though man proposes, God disposes." And, just as the youthful Prince Napoleon had found his grave in the wilds of South Africa, so I feared it would fare with the nobleman's son. However, the young man appeared rapidly to regain his strength after our arrival, and the " sisters " who nursed him cherished the expectation of his speedy recovery. There was plenty of water at the camp both for man and beast, the Macloutsie River flowing not far from here. The following day the Governor and the Premier held a review of the troops, who were in excellent form. Young, healthy, vigorous men all of them were. In fact, they made such a good impression on me that I thought it would be a pity if they were not given a chance to measure their strength with the Matabele- 54 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. After the review His Excellency delivered an eloquent speech, which every listener heartily applauded. I was surprised to see so many Africanders amongst the troops of the Chartered Company — there were as many, I think, as British — and it gave me pleasure to find them all cheerful and in the best of spirits. True, there iiad been a few rare cases of fever at IMacloutsie, but hitherto no deaths owing to that disease. After the delivery of Sir Henry's address we visited the fort, a strong solid piece of work defended on all sides by Gatling guns, from which a thousand shots could be fired within the space of thirty minutes. Macloutsie also enjoyed the privilege of a post and telegraph office. Young Elphinstone was much better the following morning, and the delighted father began making arrangements to take him to the Cape, and thence to England. The distance between Macloutsie and Capetown is 1,302 miles. Up to there* the telegraph wire had followed us, and a telegram could be sent from either terminus to the other end and be answered all within half-an-hour. Who will still dare say that Southern Africa does not advance with rapid strides? The Macloutsie Camp stands about 2,300 feet above the sea-level, and, therefore, more than a thousand feet lower than PalajDye. However, the spot is healthy and has been well chosen. Up to Macloutsie, the disputed boundary between Khama's and Lobengula's countries, the parties of the Governor and the Pre.nier had been travelling together, THE HIGH COMMISSIONER TURNS. 55 but they were now going to separate ; the latter wished to extend his trip northwards, whilst the former was going to turn. Sir Henry expressed great dis- satisfaction at Mr. Rhodes's resolve, but ultimately assented to his proceeding up to Tali Camp — about another seventy miles — but not a yard farther. The reason of this reluctance of the High Com- missioner lay in the fact that he had received earnest warnings from Buluwayo, Lobengula's capital, from Mr. Moffat and others, to the effect that the young blood of the Matabele yearned for war, would no longer be controlled by their king, and would certainly capture the " Kozi Mali " (man of money) if they got the opportunity ; and that, therefore, it was extremely inadvisable for the Premier to penetrate into the Matabele country. Besides, it would be an insult to His Black Majesty if Mr. Ehodes travelled through his land without visiting his capital. On the other liand, should he visit that town, the chances were ten to one that Lobengula would take him prisoner merely to please his people, if for no other reason. The Governor added that, should Mr. Rhodes be captured, he, as High Commissioner for the colony of which Mr. Rhodes was Prime Minister, would be bound to come to the rescue ; and what unpleasantness, which might easily have been avoided, would be created ! War would be the probable outcome, and it might cost millions to carry it out. " Remember," Sir Henry reminded him, " you are not Mr. Rhodes alone, but also the Prime Minister of the Cape Colony." Sir Frederick Carrington, Sir Sidney Shippard and Captain Bower endorsed the Governor's words. 56 WITH RHODES IN MA8H0NALAND. Mr. Rhodes courteously replied that the object of liis journey was not to see Bechuaualand and Khama's land, but Mashonaland ; lie was standing on the border, he said, of the British Protectorate, but wanted to cross over to his own protectorate ; and his fellow-travellers, he added, had come for the same purj)ose as himself. He therefore hoped it would not be taken amiss if he did not return then and there with the Governor's party. Having done with Mr. Rhodes, Sir Henry sent for Mr. Yenter and myself. With us, too, as he had done also at Palapye, he spoke long and seriously on the situation, earnestly requesting us to consider and alter our plans, laying before us the several dangers we would otherwise iucur, and asking us to use our influence in inducing the Premier to abandon his project of carrying hisjourney farther than Tuli Camp. " You would run the risk," said he, " of being made the prisoners of Lobengula and locked up in Buluwayo; of being attacked and murdered at Mount Hampden ; and of being detained by swollen rivers, which would give the Matabele ample opportunity of disposing of you at their will." These words carried some weight with them, but we remained firm in our resolve, for it would indeed have been folly on our part to turn back after having nearly reached the border of the country we had come to see. " But," said we, " if your Excellency is of opinion, and Mr, Rhodes agrees with it, that it is better for Mr. Rhodes not to prolong his tour, let him halt and turn at Tuli, while we take a waggon and some of the stronger mules and enter Mashonaland." WE GO OUR OWN WAT. 57 " Yes," replied Sir Henry ; " but that is not what Mr. Bhodes would like to see. If you extend the journey, he will not stay behind." But the Governor's endeavours to persuade us to change our mind were exercised in vain, and with some degree of mutual dissatisfaction the meeting ended. We thought that the sooner we left the camp the better ; so we had our waggons inspanned towards evening, and a little after sunset we drove off, leaving the Premier, who promised to follow us the next morning, behind. 58 WITH RTIODES IN MASf/ONALAND. CHAPTER X. A dark night, and a recalcitrant driver — We find we have an invalid in the company — We go on and pass throngh a country deserted through fear of Lobengula — A letter of warning from the Governor. The road leading from the camp was in -a deplorable condition, and, as darkness was setting in, we could only move forward slowly and cautiously. It soon became so dark that we could hardly see the way. Mr. Venter and I mounted our horses and rode in front of the waggons, two of the Chartered Company's police directing us. The waggons and tlieir inmates had no pleasant time of it, as they had to endure shock after shock through the brokeuuess of the road. With Mr. Lange's approval, we outspanned sooner than we had at first intended, for our patience at such travelling was beginning to give way. On rising next morning we found that we had out- spanned in front of some dangerous ditches, and that we had thus been fortunate in halting where we did. To return to the previous night : shortly after we had unteamed the animals, we noticed that George, one of the drivers, was more talkative than usual, so much so that no further indication of his being under the influence of Bacchus was necessary ; he must have been drinking at Macloutsie. Mr. Lange aJ vised him to hold WE SEE OUR LAST OF GEORGE. 59 his tongue, but that only made him worse ; he became impertinent and threatened to leave the party. '' Well, go if you like ! " said Mr. Lange. George took his bag and all he had and made his way back to Macloutsie. Arrived there, he complained to Mr. Rhodes that Mr. Lange had ill-treated him. The Premier, however, paid no attention to his tale, and George thought it best to forget the matter and return to the waggons in Mr. Rhodes' cart. But the poor fellow had to discover to his regret that he had cheated himself, for the Premier next morning refused him a seat in the cart, and there was no other means by which he could again overtake the waggons — and this was the last we heard of George. He probably returned to Palapye, where he had a wife (a native of Genadendal), who had been brought up by Mr. Moifat at Buluwayo. During the night Mr. Venter complained of some- what serious indisposition, so we decided next morning to send for the doctor at jMacloutsie before we again proceeded on our journey. AVe despatched Hackwell, one of the })olice, for the purj)ose, and not long after- wards the military doctor arrived in company with Mr. Rhodes. The patient was carefully examined, but nothing was found wrong with him excejDt that his stomach was a little disordered, and that was quickly remedied by a few pills. Mr. Rhodes returned witli the physician to Maclout- sie, and we shortly afterwards crossed the Macloutsie River, the banks of which were adorned with the palm and the wild date. Twelve miles further we rested at the Lotsani River, and there awaited Mr. Rhodes. 60 WITH RHODES IN MASEONALANB. The latter had met Colonel Pennyfather (who had come from Mount Hampden) at Macloutsie the night we left it, and the Premier had much to communicate to his friend and some business to transact with him — hence the delay. He promised to leave Macloutsie at night time with the rise of the moon, and overtake us. During the day we went out hunting and shot some pheasants and partridges, but we took care not to go too far from the waggons, for fear of losing our way. During the liunt we came across some desolate Kafir kraals, abandoned probably on account of their dan- gerous situation. All about these places shells of wild dates and seeds of various fruits were to be seen on the ground. Amongst the animals inhabiting that part of the country are the lion, the wolf, the ape, the koodoo, the kwagga, and the wild dog. But though we saw the traces of most of these animals, we did not leave our waggons sufficiently far to chase any of them. We were now travelling on the disputed territory between Macloutsie and Tuli, a beautiful piece of country with many streams flowing through it. No one owns it and very few live in it. It is the country where Lobengula so unexpectedly once fell upon Khama's Kafirs, slew the men, and carried off their wives and children. No wonder, therefore, that we passed so many kraals destitute of people. As intended, Mr. Ehodes left Macloutsie at half- past twelve at night, as the moon lifted its head above the horizon. But before he started he had to suffer some annoyance at the hands of Anthony, the coachman, who was not at his post when the cart had to be inspanned, notwithstanding the repeated SIB HENRY LOCH'S LETTER, 61 injunctions he had received the previous evening. Anthony had evidently been making some friends at Macloutsie, \vith whom he enjoyed himself longer than his duty allowed. Mr. Kliodes, however, did not take much trouble to find him, and filled his place by one of the police of the Company, Malherbe by name — whose parents, by the way, lived near Capetown — and in the morning early he and Colonel Penny- father arrived at the waggons. Shortly afterwards we again moved on. The Prime Minister and the Colonel were tired and sleepy, and so laid themselves down in a waggon for a nap ; but, before doing so, Mr. Rhodes handed Mr. Venter and myself a letter he had received from Sir Henry Loch, which he wanted us to peruse and consider. Its contents were a rej^etition of the warnings given us by the Governor before we left him. Mr. Venter and I read the letter and read it again, with all due deliberation ; and we agreed to propose to Mr. Rhodes, at the next halting-place, that the party should resolve nothing until they arrived at Tuli, and there make their final decision, but that we — Mr. Venter and myself — should be at all events allowed to continue the journey if we should choose tp do so. Our next outspan-place was at a lovely stream. By that time both the Premier and the Colonel had waked from their morning sleep, and the first thing the former asked for was the conclusion to which we had come about the letter. We told him our mind, and he accepted the suggestion. Our course again wended through veld rich in grass, wood and water. 62 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTEPt XI. We arrive at the Tuli Kiver — Other tourists there besides ourselves — Our ideas considered impracticable — Mr. Ehodes gives up his project with regret — The story of a brave lion-hunter. On Saturday morning, the 1st of November, we found ourselves close to the picturesque Tuli or Shaslii River. Not many days previously the river had beeu so dry that it contained only small pools of standing water here and there ; but now, due to the rain that had I'alleu two days before, it was converted into a roaring current. We could hardly believe our eyes when we saw so strong a stream in so comparatively dry a country. Not far from the river stands the Tuli Camp, situated on a hill about 2000 feet above the sea-level, and therefore lower than the camp at Macloutsie. It is a pretty and well-fortified camp, plentifully supplied with cannon and ammunition. The police, numbering about two hundred, were in as good a condition, as strong and healthy, as might have been desired. We were now on the northern border of the disputed territory and 1370 miles from Capetown. The fort was provided, on a small scale, with shops, smithies, and a church. A MEETING WITH BOERS. 63 We made the acquaintance there of Captain Turner, a very amiable and good-natured gentleman. We took a bath in the Tuli and enjoyed it im- mensely. The water was as clear as crystal. The banks of the river were covered with beautiful trees, the wild fig being the most prominent ; some of them measured round the trunk between 45 and 50 feet. From shore to shore the Tuli has a width of from 600 to 700 yards, but during the rainy season it frequently happened that the river overflowed, and then it was half-a-dozen times as wide — in fact, there have been times when tlie river in some parts has had a breadth of three miles. Not far from us some Boer waggons M'ere out- spanned. Mr. Venter and I went to them and made the acquaintance of the people ; they were farmers from the Zoutspausberg District who had come to sell their produce at the camp, for which, they said, they always received good value, and the mem- bers of the camp always treated them with courtesy and kindness. On this occasion, for instance, they told us, Captain Turner had been so pleased to see the waggons approaching tliat he immediately sent a team of eight oxen to the assistance of each waggon, for he was afraid that the tired oxen of the farmers would be unable to draw the wafjgous through the stream. At this action of the Captain the farmers ^\ere as much pleased as surprised, the more so because they had nothing to pay for it. They spoke very highly in praise of all the Englishmen at the camp, avowing they had never in their lives met kinder people. 64 WITH RHODES IN MAFiHONALAND. They liad received a cheque from Captain Turner payable at the Standard Bank, Pietersburg, but, not being used to paper money, they asked whether that mode of payment was all right. We assured tliem it was, and told them it was better to have their money paid in cheques than in coin, for the former could be more safely and conveniently carried ; at Pietersburg they would receive every penny of the sum stated on the cheque. They thanked us for the assurance. Some of them, I may mention — of whom Messrs. Visser, Du Preez, and Van Aarde were the ones we most conversed with — belonged to the voortreJckers (i.e. earliest emigrants) to Zoutpansberg, where they earned their living chiefly by hunting and by dealing in ivory, feathers, hides, etc. They also were well acquainted with Mashonaland, for they had spent much of their life there in hunting. They supplied us with detailed information on the nature of the country and its separate divisions, and, hearing their account of the fertility and the grandeur of the land, we could not but feel inclined to become Mashonalauders ourselves. Our informants were extremely desirous to fix their permanent abode in that land, but for fear of the Matabele shrank from doing so. " How is it then that you are not afraid to hunt there ? " we asked. " Because," was the reply, " Lobengula gave us the permission. We may shoot any game except hippo- potami, for these are looked upon by the Matabele as sacred animals ; but live in the country we dare not. But if Mr. Rhodes conquers the Matabele and makes them subservient to the white man, we will all move to THE BOEES' IDEAS ABOUT MATABELELAND. 65 that laiid." It was to be lameuted, tliey said, that so savage a race should have the almost exclusive enjoy- ment of so beautiful a land : God certainly could not have intended that region for those barbarians. They wished a quarrel would break out between Mr. Rhodes and Lobengula, and were prepared to stand by the former. " But then," one of us interrupted, " what is to become of Lobengula and his tribe in the event of his defeat?" " Become the white man's subjects. Or, Lobengula can take his tribe across the Zambesi, and possess land there, whilst we take in Matabeleland. This should have been done long ago ! " "And what do you think," we asked, changing the topic, " of our travelling on to Mount Hampden ? Shall we be able to return before the rivers get full ? " " Oh no, never ! " they unanimously replied, somewhat astonished at the question. They thought it folly on our part to think of doing such a thing, as the Lundi was already swelling, and was too high for waggons to pass through it ; but even if we were able to cross it now, it would be wholly impassable by the time we wanted to return, and we would be obliged to stop at the river for months. They told us of a farmer who, on his way home from Mashonaland, arrived at the Lundi and found it too high to cross over, so he had to wait there from December till May, when at last the river became passable. Beside the Lundi there were other rivers which we would not be able to get across during the rainy season ; for example, there was the Tukwi and Lotsani. F 66 WITH BHODES IN MASHONALAND. "So you think," asked Mr. Venter, "it is utterly impossible for us to proceed to Mount Hampden and be back by the end of November ? " They laughed. " If you say ' end of March,' " replied one of them, "there is some possibility of your achieving it, but * end of November ' ! — that's quite out of the question. And, you must bear in mind, that if you stop long on the banks of a swollen river you will certainly catch fever. No ! don't think of going deeper inland ! Make this your turning-point and avail yourselves of your spare time in hunting, and see whether you can achieve the honour of shooting some of those fierce lions round about here ! " We invited the farmers to our waggons, and there we drank to each other's health, after which they returned to their waggons. Mr. Venter and I after some deliberation determined to follow the counsel received from the Boers and to inform Mr. Rhodes of it. It proved a blessing — as events will show — that we had met those men. After supper, as Mr. Rhodes was quietly enjoying a cigarette and the rest of the party their pipes, my friend and I submitted to the Premier the final de- cision to which we had come. Mr. Rhodes, after listening with keen interest to what we told him, expressed his appreciation of the information and advice the Boers had given us, and thanked us for having consulted them. He fully agreed with us, and added that he had received similar warning from the men in the fort. Colonel Pennyfather also, though he disliked interfering with our programme, expressed his conviction that if we travelled farther WE GIVE UP OUR PLANS. 67 inland our road back would be blocked by both the Lundi and the Tuli, perhaps also by the Macloutsie, TiOtsani and other smaller rivers. In the face of such information, the Premier acknowledged that it would be an act of wanton folly on our part to shut our cars to the advice given us. "It is true," said he with a sigh, "our horses and mules are fat and strong; we, healthy and in sound spirits; our provisions more than enough, — and it is most disappointing, after having travelled nearly four- teen hundred miles and reached a spot within four hundred miles of our destination" (eight days' further journey), " to be compelled to turn back ; but no other course is open to us than to do as we have been advised by Sir Henry Loch, Sir Frederick Carrington, Colonel Pennyfather and the experienced Boers. Thus, good friends, I am decidedly at one with you. We tuin here, we cross the Shashi and the Crocodile, we travel down the Transvaal via the Blauwbergeu and Zout- pansbergen, pay Oom Paul a visit, and return to Cape- town." So said, so done. The hope of seeing Fort Salisbury and the Zimbabe ruins was abandoned. We left Fort Tuli on the 2nd of November, crossed the magnificent Shashi, and travelled through an extensive, picturesque and most fertile valley abounding with the palm, the date and the wild fig, and forming part of the disputed territory between Khama and Lobengula. We crossed the Tuli once more ; here it was some thousands of yards in breadth, and its shores were densely covered with trees and shrubs of various sizes and descrip- tions, which indicated the presence of wild animals, F 2 68 WITH lillODES IN MASUONALAND. AVe were now near to the spot where, a month previously, an old gentleman, a Mr. Vivier — called by some Bebeyee — was killed by a lion. The veteran adventurer had met three lions. Two of them lie succeeded in shooting dead ; the third he mortally wounded, but before he could again mount his horse the infuriated iujured animal was upon him, threw him to the ground, and revenged itself as much as its dying condition allowed it. Its strength exhausted from loss of blood, the fierce animal fainted and died. The well-known huntsman rose, but his limbs were so mangled that he could not get upon his horse again. He was lifted on it by some fellow-hunters who had arrived at the scene, and was brought home and attended to, but the following day he died. Thus the expert sportsman, who had lived to see his seventieth year, fell a victim to one of those ferocious animals of which he had killed dozens, and of which he had always been considered a particularly skilful hunter. The skin and teeth of that lion are kept in the camp at Tuli. Towards evening we outspanned on the southern border of the Tuli. We thought of bathing in the river, but its bank was so rough and craggy, and so many footprints of wild animals were to be noticed on the soil, that we gave up our intention. ( 69 ) CHAFrEK XII. A bad night — Solomon fears he is going to die — Traces of hyaenas and snakes — We come to an African paradise! — Mr. Venter and I go in search of milk, and are nearly torn to pieces — We cross the Crocodile, and have an interview v?ith Mr. Greeff — A proposed big liunt. I DID not spend a pleasant time in the dell in which we slept that night. All seemed to suffer restlessness, and Solomon, one of onr rein-holders, groaned loudly. He had before complained of pains in his chest and other parts of his body, and had subsequently neglected to take the necessary precautions : he had, for instance, more than once gone to swim in the cold waters of the Tuli when he should have kept his body warm. The result of this was that he caught a severe cold. Having pity on the fellow, I got up, went to him and felt his pulse, which beat rapidly. His forehead, too, throbbed badly, and he complained piteously of backache and pains throughout his body. It touched my feelings when the poor fellow, a very decent and truly obedient boy, and one for whom I always had a great liking, looked with an expression of anguish into my eyes and said, in a broken tone : "Dear master, must I die in this wild land ? " Deeply did I sympathise with him, but I told him 70 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. nut to feel melancholy and fret about his illness, else he would certainly die, but that he should keep up his spirits. Mr. Venter, who had also meanwhile left his couch, brought the patient some medicine; and we rolled him tightly in blankets so that he might perspire well. Nevertheless, we were much afraid that we would lose Solomon, and we could ill afford that, not only because he had always proved a faithful and competent servant, but because we had already lost two of our boys, Anthony and George. The following morning, however, Solomon felt better, though still far from right. We placed him in waggon No. 3, and again covered him up well. But Solomon's sickness was not the only anxiety we had to suffer that night. Our dog was continually barking, and the cause of it we found out in the morning to have been the presence of hysenas near our waggons ; their freshly-made footprints indicated it. We also discovered that we had outspanued in a narrow basin-shaped dell surrounded by high, dry hills (hence the depressing heat during the night), and one which during summer must be exceediugly marshy, judging from the black mud-soil v/ith its deep cracks, in which doubtless hundreds of snakes had their abode. All of us felt somewhat indisposed that morning, a proof of the unwholesomeuess of the close air in the vale. And were it not particularly dry just then, I liave no doubt more than one of us would have caught fever. One must be very careful when travelling in that country as to the places he selects to sleep at ; it is always safest to choose the open veld. Continuing the journey, we passed through a truly BEAUTIFUL SOENERY. 71 lovely tract of count ly. The fine rivers and valleys we had to cross; the trees and shrubs ou each side, with the birds singing behind their leafy screens, and with the pheasants on the ground under them ; the exquisite beauty of the scenery around us — these, combined with the glorious weather we were enjoying that morning, rendered the country a paradise. We met several troops of birds on the wing, of which Mi-. Rhodes shot a few and I one. Water was plentiful. Now and then we passed a straw hut occupied by the most savage Kafirs. Perhaps, however, we misjudged them — perhaps it was only temporary terror caused by our presence that made them appear so savage, for the reader must remember that we were still travelling in lawless "No-man's-land," the disputed territory. At evening we outspanued on the side of a small stream, where Captain Turner overtook Us ; he was to accompany us to the Limpopo, where we intended to have a big hunt. x\t five the following morning we set out again, our way carrying us through valleys covered with tall grass, and with such trees as the palm, the wild cocoa-nut, etc. We could not helj) admiring the land and regretting that, through dread of Lobengula, it should be uninhabited. During the whole of the day we saw only one hut ; and that hut, to be concealed from view, was built under the cover of some large trees. It was a big and neatly-built straw house, and in front of it there stood a strongly fenced kraal with a number of oxen and milch-cows in it. 3[r. Venter and 1 went to the hut to ask for milk, but no sooner had we arrived there when, as if at a given signal, a troop of 72 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. dogs rushed out towards us, and we bad to take to our lieels and run as if a demon were behind us. Mr. Rhodes had meanwhile been shooting plieasants. When he returned he asked us for some of the milk we had gone to fetch. " What — milk ! " I said. " Eather congratulate us on still being alive ! Upon my word, if we had not run as though seven evil spirits were at our heels, torn to pieces we certainly would have been by that dog regiment! " Mr. Rhodes did not ask us for milk again. Leaving the dog fort, we crossed the majestic Crocodile at seven, and outspanned on the other side of it^ — i.e., on the Transvaal side. The river there presents a peculiarly romantic picture, is about three hundred yards wide, and runs very deep. Its banks are covered with stately trees and jungle extending about a mile in width. Clear white drift-sand covers the bottom of the pure, transparent water : and the branches of the border- ing trees overhang the river's banks with such symmetry of form as to make it difficult for the eye-witness to imagine that man's hand had not there come to nature's assistance. Judging from the marks in tlie sand on the liver's sides, thousands of animals must have their liome in the adjoining woods, lions not excluded, for their foot- prints also were to be observed. Large birds re- sembling young ostriches were also to be seen there. Not long after our arrival on the Boer border. Captain Turner visited the waggons of Mr. Greeff and Mr. Leah, which had been outspanned a short distance from our own, and shortly afterwards he returned with the above-mentioned gentlemen, both of whom made a TEE PREMIER'S INTENTIONS. 73 good impression on us. They had considerable know- ledge of both Mashonaland and Matabelelaud : Mr. Greeff had spent fifteen years of his life in the neigh- bourhood of Buluwayo. He asserted that the veld stretching for more than two hundred miles towards the Zambesi, from the Matabele capital, was beauti- fully adapted for cattle and sheep. Mashonaland he described in a word as grand; he was burning with the desire to live there, and he said to Mr. Ehodes in my presence : " Take my word ! if you want men to-morrow to clear that land of the pest that now governs it, my son-in-law and myself will be at your service, and we shall get another hundred of our Boers to join us ; and, believe me, those Doppers who live in Zoutpans- berg, Blauwberg and Waterberg, never miss a shot : three of them are a match for three hundred Kafirs. All that we desire of you is to grant us farms and not to stoj) us when we fight with the natives. If you agree to that, Lobengula's glory will soon be past." Mr. Greeff spoke so earnestly and so dramatically, that our Premier could not keep from laughing. " Yes, Mr. Greeff," answered Mr. Khodes, " I shall certainly some day be pressed to do as you want me to do, but you must remember that I have only the right to dig gold in that land ; so long, therefore, as the J\Iatabele do not molest my people, I cannot declare war against them and deprive them of their country, but as soon as they interfere with our rights I shall end their game ; I shall then ask your aid, and be very glad to get it, and when all is over 1 shall grant farms to those who assisted me." 74 WITH nnODES IN MASHONALAND. " Yes, that is right," replied the Boer with a nod. "But," added the representative of the Chartered Company, " nothing prevents you to trek into the hind now. If you wish it, I will give you a permit to dig for gold there and to choose a farm for yourself to live upon, cultivate and keep stock upon. And your farm will always remain yours, Avhether the Matabele fight or not, and it is sure to become more and more valuable as the wliite population in the land increases." At this announcement the two visitors appeared exceedingly pleased. Mr. Greeff terminated the dis- course on that subject — " Well, Mr. Rhodes, you may depend upon it, next March, when the rainy season will be over, I will trek to that country with all I have, and I will get many others to go with me." We next busied ourselves in discussing the arrange- ments to be made for the " big hunt " we had so long been looking forward to. Mr. Greeii", after attentively listening to the conversation, remarked that our pro- gramme was not a bad one, but that he could suggest a better. He said that his son-in-law and he had decided to go out hunting the day after for three days. They intended to take with theui an open cart drawn by oxen for carrying the necessary provisions and the game to be shot. In addition to that, they would take with them four Kafirs, with as many mules, to convey the meat which could not go on the cart. The course they would take would be down by the side of the Crocodile until they reached certain large but shallow pools, in which they were sure to find hippopotami as well as crocodiles. He was certain UNDECIDED. 75 also that they would meet on their way such animals as lions, tigers, leopards, kwaggas, koodoos, blesbucks, elks, strij)ed-bucks, etc. " Come with us ! " he con- cluded, " and you will spend a most enjoyable time." " Yes," said I, " your proposal is good, but suppose, whilst we are out on the hunt one of our horses fails — say mine fails or lags behind and causes me to lose sight of you — a thing not at all unlikely — for my pony is but a lazy beast — what then ? " " Ah, well," responded Mr. Greeff, " you will have to wait at the spot where you last lost sight of us till we return on the footmarks of our animals and find you." " No ! old friend," said I, " that will never do." " Well," he said, " if you don't wait where you are when you lose sight of us, you will lose your way altogether, and, as true as the sun shines, no trace of you will ever be seen again." We looked into each other's eyes with a smile and felt all but inspired with zeal for our enthusiastic friend's proposed three days' hunt. We did not at once refuse the invitation, but promised to consider it ; and we decided, at the same time, to join in a short chase in the afternoon. 76 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTER XIII. \Vc divide our forces — The prospect of a delicious supper — I meet with some curious wild animals — An interview with crocodiles — The return of our hunters — An adventure with a tiger — Mr. Greeff tells an exciting story. When the time arrived the company divided itself into two parts ; Mr. Yenter, Mr. Leah and myself forming the one, and Mr. Ehodes, Colonel Penny- feather and Captain Turner the other, the former to hunt bucks and other of the larger game, the latter to shoot birds and such of the smaller game as they should come across. A third party, consisting of Messrs. du Preez, Visser, van Aarde and Joubert, who had also outspanned not far from us, went out hunting. Each party chose a different direction. We had not left our waggons long when koodoos came within sight. We now began to ride with greater speed ; but Blauwbok, Mr. Venter's horse, became crippled and could not keep pace with the rest. I gave my disappointed friend my own horse and took his. At a slow pace I then followed the rest of the party. Shot upon shot was soon to be heard, and I thought in pleased anticipation of the delicious meal I was going to eat in the evening. Dimly I could also 1 SHOOT AND MISS. 77 hear the shots fired by the other parties. But I now began to find that the longer my sickly jade carried me the farther it lagged behind. The prospect of getting lost in the woods was not a very pleasant one, and so, without much hesitation, I resolved to turn back. Following on the traces of our horses in the direction from which they had come, I reached, after spending some time and trouble, the faint little footpath out of which we had deviated. I now felt at ease, and continued in the path through the woods up the side of the stream. On ray way, at a distance of about a hundred yards from me, my eyes fell upon some strange wild animals standing as still as mice ; their large ears stood erect to catch the faintest noise I made, whilst their eyes were fixed on me. I could not make out what kind of animal they were. With- out dismounting I fired a shot at them, but without effect, the bullet striking the dust in front of them. The creatures did not move. Again I fired, but again I missed — and away ran the wild hogs into the woods ! A little farther on I met a troop of small apes. The inquisitive little creatures could not take their eyes off me. They scanned me from top to toe with an expression of "What caw it be?" I felt inclined to shoot one of them, but I had not the heart to do it, for they looked too much like human beings ; in fact, I could not see much difference between them and Bushmen. I therefore left them unmolested. Arrived at the waggons, I got Mr. Lange to pin me in a swim in the river. He warned me not to go deep into the water, but I paid no attention to what he said, for I did not think that there was any danger to fear ; 78 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. but no sooner had I thrown myself flat to swim when there was a loud splash in the water not far from me ; it was caused by two crocodiles that had leaped in from the shore. A cold thrill ran through my body. I swam back with all my might and ran to IMr. Lango. The reptiles had certainly startled me more than I them. However, they were not largo animals — about four feet in length, I should say. ]Mr. Venter the next day saw some crocodiles at the same place. At sunset our two hunting parties returned. They had met with kwaggas, elks and koodoos, they said, but all were so wild that none were shot. Mr. Khodes, however, did not come home empty-handed. He brought with him some partridges and pheasants. After taking a bath in the river we gathered round our table and took our evening meal, Mr. Greeflf and Mr. Leah joining in with us. We had hardly begun, when Messrs. Joubert, van Aarde and du Preez passed us by with their sleeves rolled up and their hands red with blood. These gentlemen had been more suc- cessful than our parties, for they had shot two koodoos and had come into possession in a very curious manner of a large red-buck. A young Kafir, whom they had left some distance behind, heard the screaming of a buck. Thinking that one of his masters had wounded it, he ran towards the spot whence the sound came. Arrived at the scene, he was startled to behold a tiger Avith its paws upon the breast of the dying buck. The negro hesitated for a few seconds whetlier he would flee from or attack the animal. Then, thinking that it would be a disgrace on his part to allow the tiger to eat what his master had shot, he threw his hieri THE TIGER AND TEE BUCK. 79 (stick) at the tiger ; whereupon the hitter, instead of rushing on its assailant, cowardly glided away with its tail between its legs. Shortly afterwards the hunters, on the shouting of the Kafir, came to the spot. We can imagine how surprised they were at what they found. The buck, a large, healthy one, was dead when secured; but, save that its neck was bitten through, no part of its body was destroyed. The story seemed almost incredible to us, but it was proved to be true. Events of that kind are not of rare occurrence in that part of the world. Only two days previously Mr. Greeflf and Mr. Leah had an adventure with a lion. Mr. Greeff told us his Kafir ran up to him and told him that he had just seen a lion on the other side of the stream eating something. The Kafir explained to him and IMr. Leah where he had seen it, and the two gentlemen took their guns and made for the place. As they neared the spot the lion roared. " I trembled in my boots," so proceeded Mr. Greeff, "but would not think of turning back before I had at least made an attempt to overcome the animal. ' Hendrik,' I whispered to my son-in-law (Leah), ' be ready to shoot him when he comes.' Hendrik shivered no less than I. We now saw the lion and the lion us, and so loud a growl it gave that the earth seemed to tremble beneath my feet. I took good aim and fii-ed and — good heavens ! — the lion came ! and all that I had time to say to Hendrik was, ' Run, man, run ! ' And, believe me, my friends, never did I know that old Greeff could run as fast as he did. Upon my word, I ran so hard that fire issued from my eyes." At this we all burst out lauirhino:. 80 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. '' Yes," said Mr. Greeff, " it is all very well to laugh when you sit round the table, comfortable and safe ; but if to-morrow in a hunt you meet the lion, I should like to see who would laugh then." Mr. Greeff was in earnest, but we could not stop laughing at his over-graphic account of the event. After a short interval, however, when we were again prepared to give him a quiet audience, and when his excitement had cooled down a bit, he continued the story. "Hendrik and I at last stood still and listened, but heard nothing. I must have wounded the lion severely. As it was beginning to get dark we would not return to see what had become of our enemy ; but the following morning — that is yesterday — we again went to the place where we had seen it last, expecting to find it either dead or wounded. But we saw nothing except a few blood patches, which show that the lion must have been badly wounded." " Why did you not go in search of him again ? " queried Mr. Venter ; " whether dead or alive, you certainly would have found him ! " "I dare say we would, if we had tried," replied Mr. Greeff. " My dog barked in some bushes yesterday ; probably we might have met the lion there, but I am never over-anxious to meet a wounded lion, especially when amongst woods. Believe me, there is nothing more dangerous than a lion hurt. When it comes down upon you, all that remains for you is to kill it or die. And I was not going to risk my life, nor was Hendrik his. But, to-morrow, we might find the lion on our hunt, perhaps also its mate, for the one is WE DECIDE NOT TO HUNT. 81 seldom without the other. We will have some fun then ! " We next reverted to the topic of the hunt we intended to have the following day. Mr. Greeff was again chief speaker. " Inspan your waggons early to-morrow morning, drive them down to ours, and leave them there. We shall mount our horses, have ourselves followed by an ox-waggon with a plentiful supply of ammunition and provisions, and go out hunting three or four days; we shall seek the lion I have injured and make it ours ; we shall visit the homes of the hippopotami on the river's side and kill at least one of those huge river- liorses — which means supplying ourselves with 1200 or 1500 lbs. of meat ; thence we make a general chase on large game, and return to our waggons. If you follow my advice," added Mr. Greeff, " I am sure you will enjoy the hunt more than ever you did any before." '.' Why will two days not suffice ? " we asked. " Because," answered Mr. Greeff, rather annoyed at our aversion to his proposals, "it will take nearly a whole day to ride to the hippopotamus pools and back again ; it will take us about half a day to hunt up the lion, and how much time have we left then ? No, if we don't make up our minds to stay at least three or four days, we need not think of going out hunting at all, for it would not be worth the trouble." " In that case we had better give up the hunt alto- gether," remarked Mr. Venter. " I think so too," said Mr. Ehodes. " And so do I," followed J\Ir. Lange. A long and lively debate ensued, and in vain Mr. G 82 WTTTT BHOVEB IN MASHONALAND. Greefif again endeavoured to persuade the party to adopt bis proposals. Even I, who had so ardently looked forward to the lion and hippopotamus hunt, could not but shake my head at Mr. Greeff's desires, especially as I pictured to myself the situation in which any of us would find himself when his horse should fail or he should lose his way ; he must wait, Mr. Greeff had said, till the party returned to him, or else run the ugly risk of never being seen by man again. Tlie end of it all was, that we decided to take up the journey the following day. Captain Turner, however, was determined not to lose the hunt, so he stayed behind with Mr. Greeff and Mr. Leah to spend four days on the chase. After supper Mr. Greeff and his son-in-law bade us " Good-bye," once more expressing their disappointment at our decision. The parting was mutually regretted, for we had by that time won each other's sincere friendship. We sent one of the police along with tlie two gentlemen to fetch us a sheep. We expected him to return soon again, but he did not turn up at all that night. This cost us some anxiety, for the night was dark, and the place strange, and hence it was not improbable that he had lost his way. However, he appeared the next morning with a fat sheep from Mr. Greeff, and a tin of fresh butter as a present from the latter's wife. Mr. Greeff would accept no payment for the sheep from our deputy, remarking, "A tin of butter and a sheep are little enough to give to such kind people." We, on the other hand, could not but speak in the highest praise of that gentleman, as well as of his son-in-law. bo CHAPTER XIV. Mr. van Aarde's farm — Too tired to run after koodoos — A difference about our journey, and Mr. Lange has to give way — Crematart Eiver and the trees there. We left the majestic river at half-past five on the morning of the 5th of November. Our road — one that I would recommend to those who wish to break tlieir necks — wended over hills and through Jdoofs. We passed the farm of i\[r. van Aarde (the father of the young van Aarde we had met at the Limpopo) and entered and outspanned upon an extensive and mono- tonous-looking plain. There being no water for our animals, our stoppage was ^ ery short. As we proceeded, some koodoos crossed the road some distance in front of us. We lazily fired at them a shot or tv\o from where we were, but missed, and we felt too tired and low-spirited to pursue them. At length, much to our relief, we reached the other end of the unvarying plain and ascended a hill, on the slope of which we were fortunate enough to procure sufficient water for ourselves and our beasts. At sunset we found ourselves on the top of a high elevation, and there we stopped to speud the night. Both Mr. Venter and Mr. Lange, however, were dissatisfied with tiie site as G 2 84 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. outspan-place ; tliey wanted the party to proceed to Crematart IJiver before closing the day's journey, because at that river tliere was plenty of water for our animals, whereas on the hill there was none. Mr. Rhodes was opposed to this ; he saw no necessity in our going farther, inasmuch as we found ourselves on a safe, comfortable and healthy spot, and as our animals had already more than quenched their thirst during the afternoon, and we for ourselves had more water with us than we needed. I agreed with the Premier, though it was to be admitted that another five miles would be no small gain to our horses as well as to ourselves. The otherwise submissive Eppie Lange was particularly out of humour on this occasion — not so much, 1 believe, because he was anxious to bring the horses to the stream, as because he wanted to be there himself; for he was longing for a bath. Anyhow, the decision had been made, the discontents had to bow to it, and we passed the night upon the hill. The following morning we drove to Crematart River and there outspanned. After breakfast Mr. Visser took us to a gigantic baobab, the circumference of the trunk of which measured no less than 97 feet. The tree was therefore wide enough to have a way cut out of it of sufficient breadth to allow four ox- waggons, side by side, to be driven through it. I am afraid that the reader who has not himself witnessed such an enormous tree will find it difficult to realise the sight. Imagine a tree with a trunk as wide as a broad street and with branches as thick as the thickest of trunks we see in the Cape Colony. We continued our journey from there through the A GREEN VALLEY. 85 woods of Mapani, and met on our way a huge wild pig. Mr. Venter fired a shot at it, but missed ; it was amusing then to see the heavy animal run. Our road gradually grew less distinct as we ascended the richly- wooded Blauwberg, and it was not without keen observation that we kept in it. Mr. Visser carefully directed us how to travel and where next to outspan (a spot where there was water), but, somehow or other, we missed the place. Luckily, however, we met a Kafir on the way, who, on my offering him half-a- crown, was willing to show us where to find water. He led. Colonel Pennyfather and myself a long way through the woods until we reached a green valley at the foot of the mount, where there was water, fresh, sweet, and as clear as crystal. We brought our horses thither and, as the quantity of fodder we had. with us was rather scant, we drove them into the grassy valley to graze there all night. We had now outspanned at a very pretty place, but it was rather warm and marshy. At the lower end of the valley, some distance from us, there stood a cluster of reeds, towards which clouds of bush- finches were seen to fly. The sight attracted me. I walked down to the thicket, the circumference of which I found to be hardly greater than that of the baobab we had seen at Mr, Visser's, and found to my astonishment that all those thousands of birds — aye, tens of thousands — found shelter in it. I watched them for a while, enjoying to listen to their in- cessant chirping and chattering and twittering, and thought as I stood there, "Ah, little finches, judging by the blue mountains in front of me, by the fruitful 86 WITH RHODES IN MASIIONALAND. valleys yonder, by tlie streams of water close by, by the luxuriant veld around me, and by the Kafir towns in the neighbourhood, the time is nigh when the white population at the foot of this mount will outrival you in number ! " We did not sleep so well that night as we did the night before, for the air was somewhat depressing and not very healthy, owing to the swampiness of the valley. CHAPTER XV. Fascinating scenery — Tlie Eiver Nile, so called — We make another effort to buy milk — The Ka6r women as bad as the dogs — A delusive hill — The Premier is dissatisfied, but the oxen are not — A born hunter and his family — Salt waggons from Zout- pansbergen. The following day our road took us through a long kloof. It was not a road that of itself would allure a traveller, it being so stony and broken that every one of us preferi-ed walking to riding, for no one cared to share the violent shocks the carts and waggons had to put up with. The fascinating scenery, however, that the opposite side of the mountain presented, com- pensated for the inconvenience the road afforded. Extensive plains, too, at a distance, with here and there a Kafir town upon them, now appeared to our view, whilst at the same time we spied the dim blue tops of the Zoutpansbergen. Passing several Kafir kraals, we reached the " River Nile " — so called by the Dutch voortrehhers, who believed it to be the source ot the great Nile. Some rain having rendered the soil soft, tlie Kafirs were engaged in ploughing mealies when we arrived there. Judging by the cultivation carried on, tlie Kafirs in the neighbourhood of the liittle Nil(^ are far more industrious than any of those we had hitherto met. 88 WTTTT nil ODER IN MASHONALANP. Mr. Lange, Mr. Venter and myself drove in our cart to a little town to get some milk where we had observed some cattle- kraals. Several native women, both old and young, were just busy milking the cows when we came there, but when tliey saw us tliey all, as if at a sudden alarm, jumped up and ran as swiftly as they could to their liuts, from where they peeped at us as if we were a triplet of the basest vagabonds. We stood still for a minute or two calling " Milk, milk ! " and *' 3IaU, mali ! " {i.e., money), but the frightened women only turned a deaf ear to us. "Well, go to the dickens ! " we thought and drove away. The waggons had taken a different road from our cart, but we had agreed to meet each other again at a watery place called Witteklip. The cart was ahead of the waggons, and was goiug at a fair speed, the road being level and good, but Witteklip was still far from being reached. At length, having driven without stopping for four-and-a-half hours, we caught sight of a small white hill — our apparent destination — which seemed to be only a short distance off. We continued the drive another half-hour, but owing to the surrounding tall trees, of which the syringa was the most prominent, we soon again lost sight of the hill. I became impatient, jumped from the cart, and climbed like a cat to the top of one of the larger trees, from where it appeared to me that we were still as far avf ay from the white hill as we liad been an hour before. I suggested that we should outspan, for our horses had already made a longer run without stopping than usual, but Mr. Venter would not hear of it. It was T) TSA flREEMENTf^. 89 folly, be said, to stop within so short a distance from a place where there was plenty of water ; but, being in the minority, he did not have his way, and we un- harnessed the horses. At this action of ours, our stubborn friend was so displeased that he sulkily walked away to Witteklip. Two hours later Colonel Pennyfather arrived with the waggons. The Premier did not speak a word, but we could read upon his face — what we had only expected — dissatisfaction at our having kept the horses in harness so long. When, however, his eye fell on the beautiful pasture around him his features changed again. Our animals enjoyed an hour's grazing before they were again inspanued, and another three-quarters of an hour brought us to AVitteklip. Tiie klip itself was a huge rock, a few hundred feet in height, situated on an elevation. At the foot of it there was a fountain, the clear cold water of which we much enjoyed ; and a little farther on there was a large dam, where our animals satisfied tlieir thirst. We climbed up the rock, and from there had an extensive view over the Zoutpansbergen and Blauw- bergen. Before leaving Witteklip we made the acquaintance of a hunter who had outspanned his waggon there. He had with him his wife, his children, his dogs, his fowls, and what not — all that he possessed. Hunting was his occupation and his only occupation ; he had lived by it for years, and hoped to live by it till liis death. Only the previous day he had shot two bucks. He liad made up his mind to trek to IMashonaland as soon as the winter was past. I may mention that 90 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. almost all white men to be met with in that northern region of South Africa are huntsmen. Leaving Witteklip we travelled through fine grassy fields, on whicli numerous partridges and korhaans were to be met with. Mr. Rhodes again shot some. Towards evening we unteamed onr animals close to a large ^3aw containing water. Some heavy rains having fallen there some days before, the veld looked well, and we allowed our horses to graze on it all night. The following morning we passed the Zoutpans- bergen on our left, and saw a number of Kafir towns and thousands of cattle. In spite of the undulating character of the country the veld was open, and we could see far in every direction. At a distance of about 150 yards from the road we passed a vulture (" lamb-catcher ") sitting on a tree. Mr. Ehodes fired a shot at it from the cart and felled it. It was really piteous to see the poor bird shrink and fall. Since the Kafirs in that part of the country reared no sheep, lamb-catchers there could do no mischief. Farther on our way we met three waggons coming from Zout- pansberg loaded with salt. AVe had a short chat with. the Boers on them, and inquired from them where the old Mr. Barend Yorster was living. It chanced that one of them was a son-in-law of that gentleman, and he kindly directed us to Mr. Vorster's farm, which hap- pened to be the place also to which the salt-laden waggons were going, though at a less speed than that at which we were travelling. Meeting, however, with so many roads leading to Kafir towns, we very soon turned into a wrong one ; but the mistake was quickly discovered. Noticing some men fishing in a stream BAREND VORSTER. 91 flowing not far from where we were driving, I got down from the cart, went to them, and said " Good morning." The greeting was returned, though in a rather gruff manner, by all excej^t one, who cast a look at me savage enough to frighten me. I courteously asked them to show me which way to take for Mr. Vorster's, and they were good enough to do so. I then returned to the cart ; we got into the correct road again, reached the top of a hill, and from there we looked down upon the farm of Com- mandant Barend Vorster, Not little was our joy to see it, for it was the first farm we liad seen since we left ]\rr. Taylor's. 92 ^VJTTT nnoDEn in mapjionjuanp CHAPTER XVI. A carri!i;2;o and four horses — Mr. Barond Vorstcr — IMr. Adenddrfl" and his concession — A tiresome invitation whicli has to be accepted — We reach Pietersbnrg, and read sad tidings in the newspapers — We do not enjoy our quarters and decide to leave — Expensive hospitality — We hear more than we desire of the concession. We outspauned near to a dwelling-house, and nest to a clear stream whose sides were sheltered by some pretty willows. In the garden close by, surrounded by a wall, we noticed a number of haystacks, and so we knew where to get food for our animals. After taking a bath in a deep pool close to the house, we purchased for our horses a quantity of fodder at a cheap rate, but for ourselves we could obtain neither poultry nor any other meat, so we had to have recourse again to our tinned food. Whilst still at our meal, we saw a showy carriage drawn by four smart horses coming in our direction. This gaudy sight made it difficult for me to realise that I was sitting in a corner of rude Zoutpans- berg. The vehicle stopped at our waggons, and out sprang Mr. Barend Vorster, junior, member of the Volksraad, with his pair of crutches. He at once invited us to his father's house, but was sorry to tell us that his father was not at home, being out on state duty in his capacity of commandant. We A VISIT TO A FARM. 93 accepted the invitation, and a little afterwards found ourselves seated in the sitting-room of Mr. Vorster's house. The good old house-lady and her daughters treated us with great courtesy and kindness. We met at the house Mr. Adendorfif, and others, amongst whom I recognised the man who had given me that wild glance earlier in the day. With cake and filled-up wine-glasses in front of us, and with cigars or pipes in our mouths, we could not feel more comfortable than we did. After some preliminary casual remarks on this and that, we were soon engaged in earnest conversation. Mr. Barend Vorster, the Kaadslid, fell into an in- teresting discourse with the Premier, and Mr. Adendortf talked with me. "What do you think of the interior?" asked Mr. Adendorff. " Do you expect war there ? " " As to the interior," I replied, " I have a very high opinion of it ; and as to war — well, I don't expect it. Lobengula is not so stupid as not to know that to fight against the white man is to bring about the destruction of his own power, for he is aware of how it fared with his ancestors, with his relatives, and with all those tribes who took up their weapons against the European. But, if he wants to fight, he may — we are not afraid of him ; we know the war can only have one result, namely, that Lobengula will be deprived of both his power and his country." " By whom ? ' asked Mr. Adendorff with a gentle sneer. "By our people," I answered, rather astonished at his question. 94 WITH RHODES IN MASEONALAND. " By your people ! " he sarcastically returned ; " and who may they be? " " Burghers from the Cape Colony, the Transvaal and the Orange Free State. Already no less than live hundred South African burghers are employed by the Chartered Company, and what is it to us to add fifteen hundred to that number ? It will be a work of a few days, especially if we promise to distribute farms, each thousands of acres large, amongst those who assist our Premier." Mr. Adendorff smiled. "Yes," he replied, "but we have also a concession there." " Indeed ! and where may that be ? " '• In Banyailand," was the challenging answer. " And from whom did you get it ? " " From Chibe," he replied. " From Chibe — so ! And who are the ' we ' who obtained that concession from Chibe ? " " Mr. Vorster and myself." " But excuse me if I remind you, Mr. Adendorflf, that Chibe is only a captain of small significance who pays taxes to Lobengula and lives in Lobengula's land. What right has he to make concessions of land not belonging to himself and already conceded by Loben- gula to Mr. Khodes ? " " Anyhow," was the response, "' he has done it." " Well, then your concession is of no value," I rejoined, " for Chibe is a subject of Lobengula's, and has consequently no right whatever to make concessions of territory to anybody." The more my opponent argued in support of his claim the more manifest became its invalidity. THE LANDAU DEPARTS. 95 " But," he remarked, " there is no obstacle in your way ; Mr. Khodes can buy our concession." " Why then," I asked, " don't you show liim your concession ? If it is legitimate, he is sure to buy it." But the whole talk went to show that the so- called concession was worth very little, if anything at all. We dropped the topic and spoke on other matters. Many Kafirs were to be seen about the place. In- deed, one meets with swarms of them and their cattle all over the Zoutpansberg district. At tln-ee o'clock in the afternoon Messrs. Vorster and Adendorff took leave of us. They warmly invited the Premier to get into their landau and drive with them to Pietersburg, but the honourable gentleman had no inclination to do so. However, he was not let off before he had given his word that he would visit Thorncastle, the residence of Mr. Vorster, junior, the following Monday, and pass the night there. Tlie fishermen whom I had anet at the rivulet had already left when the gay four-wheeler with its spirited steeds started for Thorncastle, a distance of forty miles from there, which had still to be covered before night. We next said good-bye to the hospitable Mrs, Vorster and her children, who gave us a small bag filled with cake to eat on our ^vay, and then we left. Our road now passed alongside a verdant valley in which some gardens had been laid out, and there were also some small shops kept by Jews, who seemed to carry on a thriving business. Their customers are Kafirs for the greater part — and the Kafirs of that dis- trict were not poor, as many of them had been labourers 96 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. at the gold or diamond mines. I learnt from good authority that tlie amount they contributed as annual taxes to the Transvaal treasury was very considerable. On our way we passed hundreds of bush -doves that were enjoying themselves on the patches of cultivated land, the harvests of which had just been mown. The Premier and the colonel each shot a number of them. We halted in front of one of the Jewish shops and bought some necessaries — oatsheaves and mealies for our horses, and a piece of mutton for onrselves ; and the generous shop-keeper presented us with a bucket of potatoes into the bargain. Towards the close of the day we outspanned next to a stream running between two Kafir towns. As the sun had not yet set, webegau target-shooting as a pastime at antheaps on the other side of the valley, at distances roughly estimated by us to range from 500 to 1000 yards. We liad not been firing long when an amusing incident, but one which might have been serious, took place. A Kafir, who had apparently taken no notice of our shooting, came striding along through our target area as if he were monarch of all he surveyed ; but didn't he startle and run when just a little in front of him a bullet sent up dust ! His legs could never have carried him off faster than they did then. Continuing our journey from there the following day, we passed through several Kafir towns, in and round about which thousands of cows and oxen w ere to be seen ; but, owing to the dryness of the veld and to the immense number of cattle that had to live on it, they were far from fat. At half-past twelve we outspanned within four miles PIE TEE SB una. 97 of Pietersbiirg. As it was Sunday, we did not think it proper to enter the little town at that hour and disturb its tranquillity. One of our mules had become ill, so we left it in the hands of a farmer. Towards evening we entered Pietersburg, but, on account of the troublesome flies in the village, v^a immediately again left it and outspanned a little out- side of it. We much preferred sleeping in the waggons to sleeping in the village hotel; our food and drink, however, we got at the latter. Between Tuli Camp and Pietersburg it is 18i miles. We obtained a large number of the latest South African newspapers in the village, and learnt from them that the son of Lord Elphinstone had died at Palla's Camp on the return of the Governor's party to that place. Little did Ijord Elphinstone know, when he was condoling witli me at Palla's Camp on the loss of my son, that at that same place he was to lament the death of his own a fortnight afterwards. As I had expected, so it had happened — the ambitious young- nobleman who had come to seek fame in the wilds of South Africa had found there, as had been the case witli the French Prince Imperial, his death instead. He died in his twenty-first year. Pietersburg is a pretty j)lace. It has some very neat buildings and is well supplied with water. AVo left it on J\[onday afternoon (November 10th) at half- past two, and an hour later we arrived at Thorncastle, the well-known property of Mr. Barend Vorster, junior. Our journey thither lost us a day, and if all had been of my mind, we would never have made it; but 98 WITH lillODES IN MASEONALAND. since the Piomier Iiad promised to touch at tliat place, it was only his duty to keep his word. Besides, Mr. Vorster is not a man of insignificauce ; he is looked upon as the leading man iu Zoutpansberg and, as I have already stated, represents that district in the Volksraad. Two days previously he invited us so warmly to his place that we thought we would greatly disappoint him if we did not accept the invitation, and Avlien we observed on our arrival at Thorneastle a very large gathering to meet us, we naturally expected that there was grand entertainment awaiting us ; but when the day was over and we crept into our waggons at ten at night, we saw that all the fuss that had been made was a mere farce, and that our going to Thorneastle was only waste of time. Early the next morning we iuspanned and left. The inmates of the house were all still sound asleep. Not knowing whether our Thorneastle host would accept money or not for the forage our horses and mules had consumed at his place, we left Bandmaster behind M ith a horse to wait until that gentleman was up aiul then to ask him what our expenses were. We promised the boy that we would wait for him at Smitsdorp, one and a half hour's ride from Thorneastle. Shortly after our departure Mr. Yorster got out of bed, and Band- master did as he had been bidden — asked what he had to pay. *' One pound for mealies," was the answer, '' and one shilling for every oatsheaf." Bandmaster paid the mone}^ mounted his horse and rode away. Before he did so, however, 'Mx. Yorster remarked to liim : WE DO NOT WAIT FOB VOESTEPx. 99 " I \m'11 follow you later, for I should like to see Mr. Rhodes about something." We had only been three-quarters of an hour on the way when Bandmaster overtook us and informed us what he had been made to pay. We were shocked at bearing the charges, for, since we had entered Zout- pansberg we never had to pay more than 17s. for a bag of corn ; in fact, we had more than once only paid 13s ; and the price of oatsheaves never exceeded 9(Z. the j)iece ; we had sometimes only paid Qd. The other piece of news that Bandmaster brought with him, namely, that it was Mr. Vorster's intention to overtake us again, was not received with any greater pleasure — so little, in fact, that we immediately ordered the drivers to drive faster. They obeyed, and we nov went at a rate of six miles an hour on a level road. We had more than one reason for being eager to g> t away. In the first place, ^Ye had already grown very tired of Messrs. Yorster and Adendorff's persistent plead- ing that Mr. lihodes should purchase their so-Ciilled Banyailand Concession, and we longed for an end to it. Secondly, disappointed in the entertainment we had received at Thorncastle, and regretting the loss of time consequent on the visit, the farther we were away from that place the happier we felt ; and, thirdly, we bad. been asked by Mr. Kirsteu to take breakfast with hnu at Smitsdorp that morning, and we were anxious to conform to the request. We passed through Marabastad without stopping in it longer than a few minutes. It is a new village situated on the roadwciy, and is furnished with a very decent hotel. As we ^^ere appioachiug Marabastad, II 2 100 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. we caught sight in the distance of a vehicle following our track. At once we suspected that it was the landau of Mr. Vorster, and we were not wrong. Notwith- standing the accelerated speed at which we were travelling, the showy carriage soon overtook us. ]\[essrs. Vorster and Adendorfif were again its occupants, and they immediately upon reaching us iuvited Mr. Rhodes and myself to take seats iu their carriage. Although already sick of hearing of their supposed concession which they so pressingly besought Mr. Ehodes to purchase, for politeness' sake we complied with the request. ( 101 ) CHAPTER XVir. The concession again — A sumptuous lunch — Makapaau's Poort — The cave of the Kafirs — A fearful death — AVe reach Potgieter's Eust — Kafirs on the way to the goklfields — The advantages of Kafir labour. At Smitsdorp we outspaimed and took breakfast at Mr. Kirsteii's, the Gokl Commissioner. The two gentle- men from Thorncastle of conrse partook of the break- fast which had been intended for us alone. However, tiiere was more than enough for all, and we enjoyed our excellently prepared morning meal immensely. After breakfast Mr. Eeed took us to the Waterfall Gold Mines. On our way thither Mr. Vorster again began entreating the Chartered Company's represen- tative to buy his untenable claim on Banyailand. But, of course, our Premier was not fool enough to waste money on so worthless a thing. With the Waterfall 3Iines we were much taken up. The machinery used, as well as the quartz itself, looked well ; and we felt convinced that the mine, if the com- pany owning it had sufficient funds to work it properly, would become one of the best paying in the country. On our return to Saiitsdorp Mr. Vorster intimated to me that ho had ultimately succeeded in getting Mr. Ehodes to promise that, on his submitting to 102 WITH nilODES IN MASHONALAND. Mr. Eliodes's examination the papers ho had received from the Banyai chief relating to the concession, the Premier wonhl, if he found the concession in any- way valid, pay its value to the concessionaires. With this promise Mr. Vorster appeared satisfied. We had our waggons inspanned and were on the point of starting again when the kind Mrs. Kirsten — who, by the way, is a daughter of Mr. Albert Biccard of Koeberg — asked us to wait a little and have lunch there before leaving. The request was gladly accepted, and to our surprise we found that not a lunch, but a big dinner, had been prepared for us in true South African style. The well-roasted fat ducks and the pure Cape wine were much enjoyed ; it was the second time that day we ate a meal better than we had enjoyed for many days before. At two o'clock in the afternoon we bade our kind host and hostess farewell, as also Mr. Yorster and his companion, and left Smitsdorp. Our road now ran over a pretty tract of country — water copious and the veld green. But the graminivorous animals to be seen there were all in a poor condition owing to the grass being sour and of an inferior quality. At sunset we arrived at Makapaan's Poort {i.e., gate of IMakapaan), a place lying about thirty miles from Smitsdorp, and of considerable historical interest, many a tough fight having been fought there between the Makapaan Kafirs and the Boers under Potgieter. Thousands of Kafirs were here to be met with, and we could descry numerous towns of theirs in the im- mediate neighbourhood. Not far from the Poort there is to be seen a large deep cave, into which, during jMAKAPAAN-S FQOllf. 103 tlie war against the Bocr.^, tliou?auds of Kafirs fled to save their lives; but this their white enemy dis- covered, who thereupon placed a body of men at the mouth of the cavern to prevent any of those inside from escaping. The thus imprisoned natives preferred death to surrender, probably because they thought that surrender only meant death (having little reason to hope for mercy after having in cold blood butchered so many Boer families), and that it woukl be more heroic to voluntarily perish by starvation than die directly by the hands of their foes. As it was, every one inside the cave died of hunger, and the bones of those unfortunate creatures are still on view there. We left Makapaan's Poort the following morning, and after unteaming our horses for a short while on the way, we went on till we had climbed up an eleva- tion. On the top of it we outspanned and spent the night. Next morning we journeyed to Klein Nijlstroom, where there was the station of a Hern- hutter missionary. He had a fine orange orchard, which, howevei-, was of no use to us, for oranges were then out of season. The next place we halted at was the *' Groot Nijl." Upon the waters of that river myriads of waterfowl were to be seen, whilst in the grass npon its shores a number of owls sat looking on. Towards night we outspanned in the open veld and slept there. The following day we drove through Potgieter's Bust, in the Water berg district, a newly maiked-off toAuship with wide borders, but consisting at present of only a few buildings. The village gets its water supply from the Transvaal Nile. The soil is fertile, but the 104 WITH RHODES IN MASTIONALANI). grass is iinwliolesome for cattle. Fruit trees thrive there when spared by hail and frost. There was a time when the population of the place was far larger than at present, but owing to frequent outbreaks of fever many of the residents abandoned it. Now, how- ever, tlie number of its inhabitants is again on the increase. A church has been built, and the congre- gation support their own clergyman. But it is my opinion that the people now living there will, as soon as they may safely do so, trek to Mashonaland. Old pomegranate and other hedges, as well as some large syringas and similar trees, remained as relics of tiie earlier village, but those who had planted them had almost all either died of fever or trekked to healthier places. Continuing our course, we arrived towards evening, after crossing some hills and valleys, at the farm of Messrs.. Nadab and Thompson, a place that for many years had been held in the possession of Boers, and which only recently fell into the hands of the above-mentioned Uitlandtr gentlemen. The old Boer dwelling-house, with its thick solid walls, stands there still, but some new buildings, one of which serves as a shop, have been added. These houses, together with the various kinds of trees surrounding them, present a pretty picture. We passed the night there, as did also a large number of Kafirs who were en route to the goldfields. These men kept themselves remarkably quiet that night : they sat around the fires they had kindled not far from our waggons, and, though there were about a hundred of them, they hardly made themselves as much as heard. Early the following THE KAFIR AND THE WHITE MAN. 105 morning they again took up their march. We followed a little later and soon overtook them. It was a pretty sight to see them march — all in faultless step and every one dressed in white cloth. They were young, tall, strong Matabele, with beautifully shaped bodies. As we passed them each one jDolitely saluted us. Again I. thought, " What excellent labourers these men would make for the white man!" If Kafirs only knew the advantnges of serving under white masters, they would gain more civilisation in one year than they do from missionaries in fifty ; selling wives as slaves would cease, polygamy would die out, and they would have a fair opportunity of hearing the Word of God, for wherever the white man is, there also arc churches and preachers. As it is, there is now a general scarcity of labourers : Kafirs can live so cheaply and earn their living so easily that they decline to be dependent on the European. They are, however, beginning to recognise their degraded position, and some of them already know the privi- leges to be enjoyed by being servants to the white man. We may hope that the day will soon dawn when not a single farmer will need to complain of being short of hands. When that time comes the productions of our land will become double of what they are at present, even though its population should not in- crease ; and there will be general content and progress. lOG WITH n HOLES IN MASlION ALAND. CHAPTER XViri. No hurry to rcacli Pretoria — An officer meets iis with an in- vitation — We enter in procession, and sleep, after two montlis' travelling, under a roof — Nelmapius gives me a headache in Pretoria — The gold mines of Johannesburg — I am treated discourteously by a post-office clerk at Kimberley — Home at Capetown once more. We arrived towards evening at a large river— the name of which lias escaped my memory — and after crossing a bridge we outspanned on the other side of the stream. It was quite a treat to meet there with such a mass of water in so dry a season. Owing to heavy rains that liad fallen the previous day, the river had come down in a tremendous torrent and filled up every nook in its bed that had been empty and dry before. The next day we had to drive through a heavy, muddy road that made our poor animals spend no small amount of energy. But, slowly though they dragged the vehicles along, they did so steadily ; and the Premier rather liked this tardy travelling, because he was by no means eager to reach Pretoria before late in the evening or early the next morning. He wished to escape any of that formal ado that men in his position might reasonably expect on arriving in such a town. At ten in the morning, however, we were met by a military officer on horseback who rode up to our ENTltY INTO PltETOniA. 107 fiont waggon (the one in which Mr. Rhodes happened to sit), requested the driver to stop, and asked : " Are these the waggons of President Rhodes ? " " Yes," replied the driver. " And where is the President ? " '•Well," answered the Premier, "I am Rhodes — is there anything I can do for you ? " The officer drew a sealed letter from his pocket and lianded it to the Cape "President." It contained an invitation to him and his company to be the guests of the Transvaal Government during their stay at Pretoria, and stated also that the necessary arrange- ments for the reception of the party had been made at the Fountain Hotel. The officer also wished to know at what time Mr. Rhodes expected to enter Pretoria, for the President intended to meet him on the way. *' About six o'clock," replied the Premier. " Good-bye ! " said the officer, and off he rode as hard as he could. Other riders with fresh horses were placed on the road between us and Pretoria to relieve each other and so bring the news to President Krugcr as soon as possible. We outspauned next on the borders of a pretty stream, took a bath in the refreshing water, and trimmed our.selves up a bit, in anticipation of our entrance soon into the capital of the Transvaal. At five o'clock the State carriages, containing the Honourable IMessrs. Bok, Wolmarans, and Dr. Krause (members of the Government), followed by a number of other vehicles carrying many of the leading ladies and gentlemen of Pretoria, came to bid us welcome near Wonderboom, about half an hour's drive from 108 WITH RHODES IN MA8H0NALAND. the city. Haviug greeted each other, we took seats, at the request of the Government members, in their carriao-es. At half-past five we arrived at our hotel, in front of which a large crowd of people had assembled, who, as the Cape Premier alighted from his carriage, hailed him with tliree loud and hearty cheers. Capital accommo- dation was furnished us ; our horses, too, were well provided for, and in every respect we had good reason to be pleased with the hospitality which we received at the hands of the executive. We would now, for the first time in nearly two months, sleep inside a house. We received visitors from all quarters that night. Amongst others there was Mr. Hennie Hofmeijr (son of Mr. S. V. Hofmeijr of Capetown), with whom I had a long and very pleasant chat. Little did I then think that only a month later I would learn of his death. That fatal fever that had carried off so many of my young fiiends, among others Judge Jorrison, Dr. Davis and Dr. Wessels, also bore away the kind, gentle Hennie Hofmeijr at the age of twenty-five. We learnt at Pretoria that two days after we liad crossed the Limpopo the river came down in a powerful stream, and that it was still quite impassable by waggons, and daily growing higher. We could therefore congratulate ourselves on having hearkened to the counsel we had received from the Boers at Tuli ; had we acted contrary to their advice we would have been compelled to wait at least three months at the Limpopo — if not at another river hefore we came to the Limpopo — ere we could cross it. I arose the following morning with a shocking head- THE PRESIDENT AT PEETOBIA. 109 ache ^Yhicll I ascribed to my having drunk the night before what was supposed to be "Scotch whisky," but was nothing but Nelmapius, I am pretty sure. Mr. Venter attended the Eeformed Church in the morning, but I stayed at home, for I could hardly lift my liead. Ill the afternoon, however, when I felt better, I accom- panied Mr. Ehodes for a ride. The following inoriiing we drank coffee with the President, with whom we had an interesting conversa- tion, the meeting breaking up with mutual expressions by President and Premier of their pleasure at having met each other. At three in the afternoon we departed from Pretoria and were accompanied to Six-Mile- S2:)rnit by the state-ministers Bok, Krause and AVolmarans, escorted by an artillery regiment. At tlie Spruit we overtook our waggons, which had left Pretoria in the morning ; and there, after drinking to each otlier's health, we parted with our entertainers. At the approach of evening we outspanned within a few miles from Johannesburg, upon an elevation called Wijnberg, close to an hotel. As usual we slept in our waggons, but a stormy west wind blew so bitterly cold throughout the night that, in spite of our rolling ourselves in double hirosses, our feet felt frozen, and it was in vain that we tried to sleep. It was the most unpleasant night we had had on all our journey, and, indeed, the coldest I can recollect having spent in all my life. Of course, we regretted that we had not gone to sleep in the liotel, but tlie regret cnly came when it was too late. We had not thought that the temj)era- ture there could sink to so low a degree in the middle of November. 110 WITH RHODES IN MASItONALAND. We hailed the dawn of day with delight, and the clock had hardly struck six wlieu we arrived in Johan- nesburg. Mr. Khodes liai been expected there the previous night, but had purposely delayed his entering into the town in order to escape a public demonstration. Everyone was still indoors and all was quiet when we rode into the Golden City. We made direct for the buildings of the " Gold Fields of tSouth Africa Company," where we took up our quarters. The distance between Pietersburg and Johannesburg is 211 miles. After visiting the gold mines, we left Johannesburg per coach for Kimberley on the 20th of November, and had as travelling companions the Rev. Mr. Postnia of Pretoria and Mr. Hofmann, the Kaad-member for Bloemhof. Both were men very pleasant to associate \\ith, and in their company our long coach-journey to the Diamond City appeared a great deal shorter than it really was. We arrived at Kimberley in two days. The Premier there gave us a parting diimer, as we ha"! now practically come to the end of our journey, and the evening was spent in a very pleasant manner. At a quarter to nine Mr. Venter and tlie Rev. Mr. Postma bade us farewell and left Kimberley by train at nine o'clock. The next morning (Sunday) I went to the post-office — only open from eight till nine on the Sabbath — to inquire for letters, for before leaving Fort Tuli I directed the post officials there to forward to Kimberley all letters and papers which should arrive for me. Mr. Jan Lange, M.L.A., had advised me to see that I was at the post-office exactly at eight o'clock, because there I AM ILL'TBEATED. Ill was generally sucli a crush that those Avho came there later had frequently to turn back empty-haudcd, witli- out even having had an opportunity of asking for their letters. I therefore took care to be early at the office- door. Soou a large crowd had assembled on the step. Exactly at eight the door flew open and the big Irish- man, O'Leary, pressed his heavy body past me and was immediately handed his letters. I then asked for mine, but the post official made me no reply — in fact, took no notice at all of me. The whole room was soon crammed with people, and one after another was served ; but I, who was the second to be there, had only to look on. I became impatient. In the first place, I could not afibrd to lose so much time, for every minute that morning was valuable to me ; and, in the second place, my heart was burning to have tidings^ from home. I asked the clerk why he would not attend to me, but the young fellow again pretended not to hear. Again I asked him the reason for ijis conduct, and inquired whether lie wanted my name. " Yes," he gruffly answered. I gave him my full name and address, but it availed me nothing. Hitherto, I had kept calm, for I felt lather despondent that morning, but after I had waited half-an-hour, and had seen a number of niggers served before me, I approached the uncivil twenty-two-year- old official, and sternly addressed him : " Postmaster, icliy don't you attend to me ? From the outset I have been standing here, and I've seen you serve scores of niggers, but me, a stranger, you entirely ignore, and treat as you would not treat a Hottentot. Tell n:e, what do you mean?" 112 WITH nrroDES in mashonaland. No answer. " Clerk, will you serve me or not ? " I aslced for tlio last time. " No ! " he hurled at me. " C4ood ! " I uttered. I jumped into a cab and rode oft' to the Kimberley Club to find someone to get my letters for me. Luckily I met Mr. Khodes there, to whom I communicated my disappointment. He im- mediately got into tlie cab with me, and together we rode to the post-office. Very courteously the Premier asked the clerk whether there ^\■ere any letters for me. No reply. Again Mr. Ehodes put the question, but all the answer he received was a contemptuous look. - " Clerk ! " said the Premier sternly, " I am Bhodes ! Will you answer me immediately ? " "Yes, sir!" the unmannerly clerk replied, greatly scared. He then fidgeted about from one corner of the room to another, but could find no letter for me. I turned back fairly out of humonr, for I knew there onust be letters for me, having bad a telegram to that eftect. Not contented, I went to Mr. Jan Lange, and he and I, after breakfast, went to the general- postmaster, to whom my friend ^communicated the whole aftair. The kind postmaster immediately went to the office to make inquiry, and on his return was able to inform us that all letters addressed to me had been forwarded to Dr. Harris at the office of the B. F). A. Company. *' AYell," said I, " if your clerk had only told us that, all would have been right; but, instead of doing so, he EOME AGAIN. 113 wasted about three-quarters of uu hour of time that I cannot afford to lose." " I am sorry," he replied, " that such has been the case, but I shall certainly investigate further into the matter." I went to the liouse of Dr. Harris, and there found a number of papers and letters for me. All was right now, but the impolite young post-cderk I shall not soon forget. Officials of his stamp are a curse to the public, and should be dismissed without hesitation. I left for Capetown iu the evening by the nine o'clock train, and arrived at my home on AVednesday, the 25th of November. Nearly two months had I spent on my tour, and during that period I had travelled over 2,800 miles. Much had taken place during that short time — much that shall never quit my memory. EXD OF r.vRT I. PART IT. D. C. De Waal, M.L A. ( 117 ) PAET ir. Our Second Trip. CHAPTER I. lutrodiictiou — We leave Cape Town for Port Elizabeth — The Premier shuns a public demonstration — Tlie mosquito in Durban — On bo.ird ship — Beetles as company — Mr. Rhodes does not mind them, but I do, and crack my crown in con- sequence. liAST year 1 related iu the Ziiid Afrihaansclie Tijd- schrift the journey Mr. Ehodes, Mr. Venter and myself had made into the interior towards the litter end of tlie previous year (1890). Encouraged by the numerous readers, and the satisfactory amount of appreciation the account received, I now propose describing briefly the trip we have just made to Mashonaland, via the East Coast, and trust that the description will not prove uninteresting. To our regret, Mr. ]\[. M, Venter, our fellow-traveller on our previous trip, could not accompany us this time. ]Mr. Rhodes, Major Johnson and I left Capetown 118 WITH JiHODES IN MASEONALANR by train for Port Elizabeth on the 14tli of Sep- tember, 1891, and reached it the following evening. Desirous of bidding the Premier welcome in tlieir midst, the Port-Elizabethans had prepared to raise a great to-do on bis coming ; but Mr. Ehodes, who never cherished any liking for ceremonials (much as he may have appreciated the honour the Bay-people were "willing to show him), immediately after his arrival at the port made for the wharf, where he got into a boat and rowed to the Brummond Castle, which was waiting for us in the bay. I, however, remained behind, Avaiting for Tonie, who had been left in charge of the luggage, and without whom, therefore, we could not proceed, He soon turned up, and together we left by tug for the Dncimnond. All was now ready for the voyage, and, as twilight set in, we said farewell to the bay. The following morning w^e found ourselves in the haven at East London. We sailed up the Buffalo River, and much enjoyed the pretty scenery on its banks. At one o'clock we bad lunch in the court- room. Some speeches were there delivered, and a not unpleasant afternoon was spent. Towards evening we left for Durban, Natal, where we arrived the following evening. Our horses, carts, and all our luggage had here to be transhipped to the Norseman, with which boat we were, two days afterwards, to continue our northward voyage. We spent the night at the Durban Club. The room allotted to me Avas a large, well-furnished one, but the bed was very uncomfortable, and the mosquitoes tormented me so mercilessly throughout the night ''PLYMOUTH SOUND"! 119 that I felt more inclined to cry than to sleep. But if that had been the only night I was annoyed by vexatious insects, I would not have much reason to complain ; it was, however, but the first of a series of nights that I was to endure that provocation. The following morning Mr. llhodes and I left for Pietermaritzburg, and there we had dinner in the evening with Sir Charles Mitchell, the Natal Governor. We put up for the night in the Imperial Hotel, where I had hoped to make up for the loss of sleep I had suffered the night before; but it so happened that a dinner was being given that same night, in the same hotel, in honour of a certain Plymouth gentleman, who had been visiting South African sea-ports, to induce the people to sign petitions in favour of our mail steamers henceforth landing the " homeward " mails at Plymouth instead of at Southampton as at present.* The merry banqueters kicked up such a noise in the dining-room that it was absolutely impossible for one to sleep. Every speech made was followed by deafening applause, and it was not till two in the morning that the jovial party broke up. We left Maritzburg at eight o'clock in the morning, * The mails are now lauded at Plj'mouth — often to the incon- venience of Cape Merchants— as frequently letters would be much sooner in London if sent via Southampton. For example, a steamer arriving at Plymouth at midnight on Sunday lands the mails, which are sent off on the Monday morning, and (on account of the long railway journey) delivered in London about the time City men are closing for the day. Had the steamer gone direct to Southampton, the letters would have been sent from there early on Monday morning, and (because of the sJto7't railway journey) de- livered about eleven o'clock in London. — Translator, 120 WITH BIIODES IN MASEONALAND. returning to Durban, M'here we embarked in the Norse- man in the afternoon. At half-past five, in weather clear and cool and on a sea beautifully calm, our vessel steamed out of the Durban harbour. Small though the Norseman is, she is a very comfortable boat, and our horses as well as ourselves were very well accommodated. AVe had on board five ponies and a Cape-cart transported from Cape Town, a number of cart-horses bought in Natal, and some pretty dogs, which Major Johnson had managed to secure at Durban. It was not till ten o'clock that 1 entered my cabin. Lighting my candle, I was struck with horror at the sight of a host of blackbeetles creeping on my bed and up and down the iron wall. For the moment I sadly regretted that I had undertaken the journey. " Goodness ! " I said to myself, as I stood there shivering at what I was seeing, " what if these disgusting insects run up my nose to-night, or my ears, or my mouth ! " And it was ten to one that they would, I thought. " No ! " I said to myself, " this will never do ! " And off to the steward I went. " My dear man," I said to him, " in that cabin of mine it is impossible to sleep ; it swarms with all kinds of dirty little iusects. I want to sleep on deck ! " " No, sir," replied the steward, " you cannot do that, because the deck will have to be scrubbed at four to-morrow morning. Besides, sir, why should you be afraid of those harmless little beetles ? They won't disturb your rest — I'm sure they won't." Nothing was left but to subject myself to his advice and betake myself again to the beetle-infested AM ATONG ALAND. 121 cabin. It was with great reluctance, however, that I did so. But when once I threw my tired body on my couch I sank so fast asleep that I forgot all about the unclean creatures that surrounded me until I awoke in the morning, having, after all, enjoyed a very pleasant repose. The views of the Zululand coast we had next clay from our vessel were very beautiful, and by means of our telescopes we could every now and then d'stinctly observe naked natives on the shore, as well as several little fires. We passed St. Lucia Bay, a pretty inlet a liitle to the south of St. Lucia Lake. Two fairly large rivers, which unite sume ten miles from their mouth, empty themselves into it. The combined rivers are about half a mile in width. St. Lucia, Lake is forty-two miles long and ten broad. I was told that thousands of water-fowl dwell upon it, and that these birds are seldom disturbed by the gun, for very few white men have as yet visited that part of South Africa. At noon we passed the coast of Amatongaland, one of the very few countries in South Africa hitherto un- claimed by the European,* and its inhabitants are the only native tribe in South Africa, excepting Majaatje's people in the Zoutpansbergen, who are governed by a queen. This queen (Sambele) entered into an ngrce- nient with Natal in 1888 that, if ever by force of circumstances she should be compelled to deliver up her country, she would give it to that colony. It was from this treaty (drawn up by Mr. ]\[offat) that Sir * Amatongaland has rcccntl}^ (180;")) been proclaimeil British terriloiy. — Translator. 122 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND, Hercules Kobinson copied the greater part of the treaty- lie made with Lobengula. At two o'clock the Norseman passed Sandwana Bay. It was here that Mr. Jesse Cooper obtained the concessiou from Sambele. Shortly after the concession Cooper attempted to float a company in England to build a railway through Araatongaland to Transvaal, but failed. It was again with great unwillingness that I betook myself to my cabin the se:ond night, the more so because the weather was not nearly so cool aiid fresh as it had been the night before. Mr. Rhodes was lying in the cabin opposite to mine, the door of which was open, and I asked him how he liked the beetles. *' Well," answered he, with a sigli, " I cannot say I Jihe them, but, as I have had many a worse time than this in ray life, I don't worry myself much about such minor discomforts." " That I can understand," I replied. " When I was a young man of twenty, and was travelling by cart through the Karoo to the Free State and Transvaal, one morning, on waking, I found two scorpions in my blanket ; but then I slept in the open veld and paid nothing for my bed. Here it is otherwise." " Oh, my good friend," responded the Premier, " take the world as it is ! Was it not your own choice to travel by way of the East Coast ? " So it was. Well, I had to be content. As it was oj)pres8ively warm I dressed myself very lightly, but this only gave those detestable little creatures a better opportunity of annoying me, and, about mid- night, I was startled by some of them taking a SLEEPING UNDER DIFFICULTIES. 123 stroll over my face and head. Again I slumbered, but again I was aroused. At last I fell into a sound sleep, but I had not enjoyed it long when quite an army of the abominable creepers marched over my nose and eyes, and gave me such a fright that I jumped from my bed, knocking my head so severely against the iron wall that I could not help groaning loudly. The clash awoke my friend opposite, " What's the matter, de Waal ? " he inquired. Having told him what the matter was — " How s lly," he said, " to be afraid of such little harmless things ! Why, I treat them like flies ! " What could not be cured had to be endured, and once more I threw myself down and slept. The fol- lowing morning I had to go about with a blue bump on my forehead — the result of the collision with the iron. 124 WITH BIIODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTER II. Still iu the Norseman — Arrive at Delagoa Bay — The clia- racter of the Portuguese residents — Why Delagoa Bay is unhealthy — Back to our berths — Beetles preferable to dirt — The manoeuvres of our pilot — An awkward predicament — At Inhambane — We hire Kafir boys, but the Governor dis- approves — The Premier waxeth wrathful and gains his point. On Tuesday, the 22ud, we passed Inyack, a richly- wooded ishmd. a little outside Dehigoa Bay, and lyinked to fetch us wood and water, AVithin an hour afterwards a gang of natives of both sexes appeared at our cart with mealies, rice, corn, eggs, etc., and four fowls were sent us as a token of goodwill from the Kafir captain. Captain Tyson again made a profitable exchange. At four o'clock the Premier arrived with Mr. Selous, Dr. Jameson and Mr. Brabant. After taking coffee we went in one company to see the remains of old Simbabe. We did not at first sight think the ruins nearly so gigantic as on viewing them more closely we found them. Dr. Jameson and I climbed up the massive but elegantly-built walls, which at some parts are between twenty-five and thirty feet high, and we walked on them almost right round the ruins. We were much interested in the Phallus or Phalli, the Phceni- cicin god, the top part of which had fallen in. Inside A NIGHT IN THE ANCIENT CITY. 273 the temple there grew a L^rge wiki tree, the branches of which bowed about thirty feet over the walls. At sundown we returned to our cart. The country round about the ruins exhibits most picturesque scenery. Look where you will, all is green and beautiful. There being no waggon in which we could sleep we spread our beds on the ground and, though numbers of hideous centipedes were creeping there, and though our beds were almost as hard as stone, we tried to sleep. ]\rr. Rhodes lay in the cart. It was a quiet, cool night; nothing but the night-bird broke its silence. As I lay there with everything appearing so gloomy and solemn around me, it was strange to me to think that the place, which was now as desolate and quiet as a churchyard, was once the abode of thousands of white men, and a place at which, in all probability, great festivities had frequently taken place in honour of the Phallus. At last I slumbered, but I had hardly been asleep two hours when the smell of smoke awaked me, and I was startled to find a fire kindled next to me and Captain Tyson busy gathering wood. "My dear man," I said, "are you possessed by the devil, or is the spirit of Simbabe haunting you ? It is not two o'clock yet and you are making a fire ! How can I sleep like this ? " " ]My good friend," he replied, " I want to let you enjoy a delicious cup of coffee early this morning." " Very kind of you," I answered, " but we don't want it in the night. Leave your fire and come to bed. At four o'clock I'll wake you." T 274 WITH hb'odes m masiioI^aland. But my words were waste of breath. Nothing remained for me but to take up my karosses and spread my bed upon another spot farther from the fire. However, my rest was entirely broken, and it was in vain that I tried to sleep again. At five we were all up, and then we drank the coffee that Captain Tyson had prepared for us three hours before. 270 CHAPTER XXIir. Tiispeclinj Simbabe — Mr. and Mrs. Bent's discoveries — Early liistory of the temi)le — Supposed to be built by Solomon — The connection of the Moors with Mashonaland — Earlj'- gold fields — Simbabe Hill — The ancient prosperity of the place to be surpassed in the future. This done, we went to inspect the remains of tlie old Simbabe temple. Entering its sacred grounds we pro- ceeded through a wide dilapidated porch, on some stones of which certain words were to be seen engraved, but the lapse of ages had obliterated them almost entirely. To the back part of the temple there led three narrow passages, and at their entrance were to be seen some fallen cross-walls, overgrown with shrubs, and a few heavy trees almost sixty feet high. We also went througli the aisles leading to the Phallus, the idol, and we could see that that part of the religious house had been divided into a number of distinct sections — pro- bably one was for the priests, another for the aristocrats, and another for the common people. In the middle of the temple there was a large hall, which had evidently been used for dancing festivities in honour of the idol. How many thousands of people the temple was able to contain is difficult to say, but the number certainly must have been enorm.ous, the dome bearing T 2 276 WITH BIIODES IN MA8I10NALAND. soiue resemblance to the Colosseum at Rome. From the discoveries that Mr. and Mrs. Bent had made in that temple there can be left no doubt that the building had been erected by a white nation. Mr. Bent dug out of the ruins fine porcelain, bronze chains and rings, bronze parrots, peculiar old coins, broken pots, vases, beads, knives, axes, assegais, slabs of marble, pieces of cement and bronze phalluses. I saw the spots at whicli "the white man and the white woman " had been digging. A lot of old pieces of wood — remains, I presume, of the roof of the temple — were to be seen lying there. I once more climbed up the big wall and from its top had another view of the temple. It was strange for me to imagine that what was now the home of the lizard and the weasel was once the place of glory of Phoenicians. On the right of us stood Simbabe Hill, which rose about .100 feet above the level of the neighbouring land, and was enclosed by a heavy stone wall. It was inhabited by the Kafirs with whom we had the memorable meeting the day before. In the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries Simbabe was frequently visited by Portuguese, who, it is stated, carried away many valuable articles from the temple, but the people were afterwards driven from there by Kafir tribes. Since that time nothing was heard of Simbabe until in 1871 Manch, the famous traveller, discovered it anew. The story goes that Simbabe was the capital of Manikaland, the country lying between Umtali and the present Fort Victoria, and measuring about 400 miles long and 160 broad. Judging by the old diggings, almost all that country CONJEOTUFiKS BEGARDING SIMBABE. 217 must once upon a time have been gold-producing, and if the land was ricli in gold in former ages — as history- says it was — it must be rich in gold still, though the veiDS of gold may no longer be met with on, or even near, the surface. But there are gold experts who stiy with Lord Randolph Churchill (though on grounds no longer tenable) that all the gold the land had con- tained had been carried away by the aiicient miners, and that this accounts for the reason why Simbabe, once a town of thousands of inhabitants, had been abandoned. Simbabe was called " Simboae " in earlier days, and it is known by some to-day as " Simbambye." It is the opinion of Manch that Sofala Bay was the landing- place of the people who in olden days dug for gold in the neighbourhood of Simbabe, and that the magni- ficent temple, judging from the style in which it had been built and the way in which the town had been laid out, had been erected either by the order of King Solomon, or of the Queen of Sheba, or else by the Pet-sians ; and he does not think it at all impossible that the Ophir, of which we read in the Bible, is Simbabe. This was the opinion also of the Portuguese of the sixteenth century. History tells us that 600 years before the birth of Christ a Phoenician fleet, equipped by Necho in the Bed Sea, sailed round the coast of South Africa, and it also informs us that the Arabians in the fourteenth century largely traded with the natives of Sofala, exchanging Asiatic products for Manikaland gold. The IMoors, too, who dwelt upon Quilloa, an island in their occupation close to Sofala, at one time extensively 278 WITH HE ODES JN MASEONALAND. bartered with the Sofala inhabitants. In the fifteenth century the Portuguese defeated the Moors, took Quill oa in possession, and opened trade with the Sofa- lans, which consisted chiefly in the exchange of European articles for gold and ivory. Both the Ara- bians and the Moors used to have important commercial towns on the East Coast. We read that the Moors on a very large scale traded with Monomotapa, the great and wealthy negro king of the land of gold ; that the King of the Moors paid Monomotapa more than one visit, and that IMonomoiapa had a magnificent Court, at which sixty princes received their education in lordly style. We read also of the fine stables that that monarch had for his own use ; of his high officials, men imported from Arabia and India ; of his beautiful grain fields ; of his sugar plantations ; of his fields of rice and cotton ; of his large flocks of sheep, goats and pigs ; and of the multitude of slaves, both male and female, in his service. In those days copper was considered by the Sofalans as a more valuable metal than gold, being much scarcer. In 1569 Francisco Barreto was appointed by the Portuguese the Captain-General and Governor of the East Coast of Africa, with the additional title of " Governor of the Gold Mines of Monomotapa." We read how this Francisco Barreto was sent from Lisbon with a force of 1000 men, all well equipped, to conquer Monomotapa, " the King of the Gold and Silver Mines," and how a body of Moors from Algiers, provided with horses, mules and camels, followed to assist him. Bar- reto defeated the great negro monarch, not, however, before be (Barreto) had suffered several reversss. All MASEONALAND BISTORT. 279 his horses were killed by the tsetse-fly, and he himself died soon afterwards, probably of fever and over- exertion. Yasco Homen succeeded him to the command the following year, and he brought with him to Sofala Bay, from Lisbon, 1500 fighting men. By stratagem Homen fell upon the King of Quiteve unexpectedly, and subsequently attacked Monomotapa (who was then still in possession of the mines), but did not much further reduce the latter's power. By clever tactics he afterwards succeeded in seizing the gold mines, and he endeavoured also to get the silver mines into his possession. AVhen the news of this reached the ears of Monomotapa, the latter immediately and secretly marched his men to the gold mines, suddenly fell upon the Portuguese and Moors and slew them almost to a man. The handful that escaped fled towards the East Coast, and after encountering many hardships on the way, reached Mozambique. IMonomotapa followed this onslaught by attacking the 200 Portuguese stationed at Fort Chicona. With 400 natives he laid siege to the fort. The* Portuguese held out until all their pro- visions became exhausted and then made a desperate attack on the besiegers, from whose swords, however, not a single Portuguese or Moor escaped. At a later date the Portuguese again captured the gold mines, but the silver mines they never could discover. Nov/, knowing for a fact that the Phoenicians, the Persians, the Moors, the Portuguese, and the natives of whom Monomotapa was king, obtained gold from Mashonaland, a man who has travelled in that coun- try and sat on the walls of the Simbabe temple cannot fail to be convinced that the Mashonaland gold mines 280 WITH RHODES IN MASnONALAND. are tlie same from which King Solomon got his gold (through the Phoenicians), and he is strengthened in this conviction when he has seen the very places at which the smelting had taken place. Since, then, the gold fields have been a source of wealth to so many nations — first, as far as we can trace history, to the Phoenicians, then to the Persians, then to the Moors, then to the people of Monomotapa, then to the Portuguese, and then, to some extent, to the Mashonas — we cannot but expect that they will also fill the coffers of the Chartered Company, and we heartily hope they will, because the prosperity of Mashonahmd means to a great extent the prosperity of the Cape Colony, not only because it is the coming market for our wines and other produce, but because there is every prospect of its soon becoming amalga- mated with, if not annexed to, the Cape Colony. We trust that the fate of Vasco Veruandes and of Homen is not also awaiting Rhodes and Jameson, and that Mashonaland will ere long have its fame of old restored. We left the temple and visited the other ruins, but they were so covered with shrubs and a sort of wild vine that we could hardly see anything of them. Next we decided to ascend Simbabe Hill. Passino; the old walls surrounding the hill — which were about six feet wide — and slowly ascend- ing the hill, we came to the remains of several ancient villas surrounded by high walls. To each of these villas there was a wide porch with pillars on both sides. These pillars Avere constructed of long granite blocks, and they stood as firm as if they had only recently been put up. All over the hill the remains THE SIM BABE BUINS. 281 of terraces wtre to be seen, Mhich, I have very little doubt, were the residences of the aristocracy. Some walls I found to be thirteen feet wide and built of small smooth granite stones of the size of bricks. No doubt those enormous walls about Simbabe — there are hnndreds of them — are the works of slaves. Many an ancient fort is still to be seen there, and there are several ruins which appear to beremaius of temples and palaces. I climbed up a large rock, and from there I had a splendid view of all the ruins on the mountain- side. All was solemnly still around me, the only noise that I could hear — and that was very faint — being the dismal music coming from some peculiar Kafir instruments at the foot of the hill, and I cannot express the strange feeling with which I was seized as I sat on that rock and gazed on the sight in front of me. It is not improbable that Simbabe Hill had once been worshipped, and that hymns of praise had there been sung to the sun, moon and stars, as was common in the days of the Galicians, the Phoenicians, the Assyrians and other nations. It is, however, not ray intention to enter into the history of these peoples and detail their connection with Simbabe, nor to show how IManch, the well-known natural philosopher, who made the ruins a special study, agrees with Barras, with the Portuguese of the sixteenth century, and with others, that the ruins are the remains of large buildings raised by white men, and^io^ by natives; nor to recount how Marco Polo, the Venetian traveller, in 1292 met a " brown nation " on Africa's east coast, " having swords and lances and shields, and riding camels and ele- phants " ; nor to relate how, 600 years B.C., a Phcenician 282 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. fleet, fitted out by Necho, doubled " the most southern point of Africa " ; nor to tell what influence the Saracens exercised on the East Coast after the time of Christ. Suffice it for me to say that I am thoroughly convinced that the ruins in and round about Simbabe are a proof to demonstration of the existence in earlier days of thousands, yea tens of thousands, of white men there. This was also the opinion of Livingstone. I say again it is my sincere wish — and I am sure that my fellovv-coloDists are sharing the wish with me — that Mr. Khodes — who is now reopening those rich mines of Mashonaland, and by whose means the white man (amongst others the Boer, the best of pioneers) is fast coming into possession of the country — may meet with all success and prosperity. Our Premier may be sure of gaining the hearty support of the vast majority of the farmers in the Cape Colony, the Free State, the Transvaal and Natal in his undertakings in Mashona- land. I trust that the little mistrust and jealousy that some still cherish towards him will soon die away, for discord and strife amongst the white population in a country like ours can only tend to injure all parties. Let us remember that we have not only to take account of foreign countries, but we have to keep a watchful eye on the internal interests of our own land ; we live in a land in which there are millions of natives, a fact that gives rise to an obviously serious question. If, therefore, the white races in the different parts of South Africa do not live in harmony with each other the future is certain to yield us bitter fruits. The discoveries of minerals that are daily being made in Mashonaland are already to a great extent FUTURE MASHONALAND. 283 attracting the attention of the world, and I am fully persuaded that the day will soou come when we shall see large cities round about Simbabe, and when the produce of that country will surpass that of any other country in Africa. Just as once the eye of Europe was turned to America, and a great migration thither followed, so it shall fall on Africa — and with the same result. I fear that the time will come when thousands of the sons of our soil will regret that they had not moved to Mashon aland. Now is the time to trek! Mashonaland is still open to all, and I would be glad to see the descendants of the daring South African voortrekkers occupy tliat fine, healthy, fertile land. Indeed, to my fiincy, they are the very people who would best get on there. Let not our people hesitate ^^hether they should proceed thither or not, but let them set out at once to inhabit a region than which there are few, if any, more beautiful on the globe. 284 WITH RnOBES IN MASIIONALAND. CHAPTER XXIV. We return to our travels— The thriving condition of the Sirababe Kafirs — Their pretty children — The little ones suspicious of the meat-tins — One of our animals taken ill — A visit to Dickens' Gold Eeef — Stamj)ing the quartz — Dr. Jameson displays his horsemanship and comes a cropper. Let me, however, return to our travel. As we slowly descended the mountain we passed several huts built among the ruins, and if there was anything that struck us about their inhabitants it was their physical condition. The little boys and girls we saw there were as fat as human beings could be. How tlie young women looked I have not seen enough of them to tell. We now and then noticed an inquisitive damsel peeping out of the hut door, but as soon as we ap- proaclied the hut she disappeared, and, awe-stricken, she would so bolt the door from inside that not a mouse could pass through it. The poor creatures were filled with fear and suspicion — and what wonder ! Past experiences at the hands of the Matabele have taught them the wisdom of exercising extreme precaution. Tiie little children of the Simbabe Kafirs are really pretty. I felt inclined to catch a couple, take them to Capetown, and bring them up. Now and then, to show his good-will, a Kafir would ccme to us with a TIMID KAFIR CHILDREN. 285 few eggs aud make us a })reseiit of tliem. The Maslioua cows that we passed on the liill-side took after tlieir masters as far as their condition was concerned — fine, strong and fat every one of them looked. Having spent two hours and a half upon the hill we returned to our camp, where Captain Tyson had mean- while prepared us a splendid dinner. I now forgave the philanthropic Captain the sin he had committed during the night in depriving me of my re^t, and we heartily drank each other's health. The remains of our dinner we gave to the little Kafir children mIio had been flocking around us, but it was strange to see how cautious they were with regard to what they ate, being afraid, I suppose, there might be poison in the food. The lemonade and the meat-tins they would at first not touch at all, for these really looked too suspicious. I toolv a spoonful out of a tin and ate it in their presence to show them that it was free from anything malignant. One or two of the bolder youngsters then grabbed a tin each, and soon all were greedil); eating and drinking everything that they could get. At half-past one Captain Tyson and I left Simbabo with the cart. The rest of the party having their horses with them could cross to Victoria by a short cut, and so they decided to leave Simbabe at a later liour. When we had gone about three miles from Simbabe one of our fore-mules began to cough, and trot badly, but we did not trouble ourselves much about it. The farther we drove, however, the more the poor creature coughed and the weaker it seemed to become, till at 28(1 WITH nnoDMs m mashonalama last foam began to rim from its nose. Onr Zulu rein-holder then assured us that the animal had the "horse sickness," and he advised us to have the mule immediately removed. We stopped the cart and unharnessed the animal, which Mr. Brabant, who came on horseback behind us, kindly drove on, choosing the shorter road to Victoria. Our cart was now being drawn by only four mules. The odd one, the one that had been harnessed to the invalid, we tied to the mules at the back. We stopped at the same river at which we had outspanned the day before, took a refreshing bath in it and then prepared coffee, which, though we had to take it without sugar — and the Africander is very fond of sugar — tasted as Scotch whisky w^onld to a thirsty Scotchman. We soon set off again, and towards evening we arrived at the camp. Mr, Brabant shortly afterwards turned up with the diseased animal, but the valuable creature died within an hour after its arrival. The next morning at a quarter to six Mr. Rhodes, Dr. Jameson, Mr. Selous, Mr. Lange and I left on horseback for Dickens' Gold Reef, nine miles from Fort Victoria. We rode through pretty veld, passed some beautiful running streams, and at a quarter to eight we arrived at the reef. The reef was only eighteen inches wide when first struck ; now, however, at a depth of thirty feet its width was four feet. Mr. Runsman, the overseer there, asked us to take some pieces of the quartz and he would stamp and wash them for us at the nearest spruit. We each then took some quartz from different parts of the reef and, Al^ ACCtbENT TO DB. JAMESON. 28? provided with pestle, mortar and basins, we went to tlie stream, Tliere the quartz was stamped and washed, and everyone of us was surprised at its richness. At ten o'clock we again saddled our horses, and after riding a few miles we came to a little river. There we dismounted, tied our horses to some trees, had a swim and took breakfast. Kiding on from there, Dr. Jameson was cock of the walk. Sitting upon a fine horse he took delight in showily riding ahead of us ; but we had not gone very far when, as the doctor put his spirited steed into a gallop, the animal stumbled and went head over heels with its rider. We were alarmed and thought that our friend had been seriously injured, but when we came up to him he quietly rose to his feet as if nothing at all had happened, though the colour of his face showed that he had been greatly shaken, and though his hand was bruised. This attitude of the Administrator was manly, of course, but it permitted us to indulge in the laugh which the ludicrous picture he and his horse had presented during the fall deserved. It was indeed too comical to see liim roll like a pumpkin whilst his horse flew over liim. The incident created much amusement all the way, especially since we had so often warned the doctor not to ride so fiercely. In hunting, too, he was wildness personified, never seeming to care a straw what became of him. We were back at the fort at noon, and to our sorrow we learnt that another of our comparatively few mules had died. We now began to prepare for our departure, for we 288 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. intended to leave the next morning as early as possible. During our stay at Victoria the keen eye of our Premier had observed much. He ordered that barns should without delay be erected there to store the mealies, corn and flour, and that they should be covered over with grass in order that the damp might be kept out. At Victoria, as at Salisbury, we met none but commanders, captains, corporals, sergeants, etc. Those gentlemen bear so many titles to their names that it is no wonder they forgot to bring the mealies under roof. ( 289 ) CHAPTER XXV. A new team — Mr. Lange, Captaia Tyson anl I are teamsters — A mad rush down liill — A bathe in the Crocodiles' pool — Providential Pass, in the haunts of the gold-seekers — Long'.s Reef — Mr. Long can give reasons for his actions — Lord Itandolph much in error. A LARGE number of oxen was brought together, and from it January, Fortuin and Bosbok had each to choose his team of twelve. Of course the very best were selected. Leaving Mr. Khodes, ]\Ir. Selous, Dr. Jameson and Mr. Barrow to follow us on horseback later in the day, and substituting Bosbok, a good Kafir, for that curious Hottentot, Petrus, as driver, Mr. Lange, Captain Tyson and I set out with the waggons at half-past seven in the morning (November 3rd). Mr. Lange sat on the front waggon, Captain Tyson on the second, and I on the third. We had taken these respective places in order to watch liow the new oxen pulled, and to lend a helping hand to the drivers if anything should go wrong. At the outset all fared well; our road was uphill and all the oxen worked steadily. Those at the rear pulled a little harder than those in front, but that did not matter — all pulled, and with that we were satisfied. But, gracious me, what a u 290 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. spectacle there was when we had reached the top of the hill and had to go down the other side ! Some of the hind oxen furiously ran between those in front as though determined to take the lead. Mr. Lange had to do his utmost to keep ahead in order to prevent the waggon behind from colliding with his. Captain Tyson's task was harder still. On the one hand he had to try to keep his waggon from running into Mr. Lange's, and, on the other, he needed to drive as hard as he could to keep his waggon clear of mine. This was too hot for him ; seized with fright, he jumped down from his waggon and ran as hard as he could to that of Mr. Lange, where he thought he was more secure. On my waggon no whip was needed, but " ho ! ho ! ho ! " we had to shout until our throats were as dry as corks. Of stopping or arranging the oxen in proper order we could, of course, not think. Madly they rushed down the hill, causing the waggons to run now on two wheels, now on four, whilst our poor bodies were being shaken about most mercilessly ; and yet, strange to say, we reached the end of the slope witliout the slightest accident having happened. Thank Provi- dence, we could breathe again ! We stoj^ped the waggons, got down, and congratulated each other on our safety. Captain Tyson, who was still trembling with excitement, now gave us a very humorous ex- position of what he thought and felt and did during the mad descent, and he openly confessed that he had been seized with fear when his oxen could not be controlled, and that he had therefore thought it best to desert his waggon. We changed the oxen, putting several that had BATUING IN A CROCODILE POOL. 291 drawn in front to the rear, and vice versa, and bringing some over from one team to another, until we had them all more or less in correct order. It was fortunate that JMr. Rhodes was not with us when we came down the hill ; if he were, I wonder what orders he would have given ! At half-past eleven we arrived at Fern Spruit, and, thinking it a very suitable spot to halt at, we outspanned. Mr. Lange, Captain Tyson and I de- cided to take a bath in the little river that ran close by. A part of the stream was fenced in, but that did not matter ; we crept through the wire, walked a little distance along the spruit, and came to a fine, deep pool. The Captain and I took our bath there, Mr. Lange walking farther on. It struck us as rather strange that all tlie large pools alongside the river were enclosed with wire, but we did not bother our heads much about it. When we had taken our bath and returned to the waggons, the other gent?emen turned up. The Premier found fault with the outspan-place, and he was dissatisfied also at our having covered so big a distance during the morning. However, soon again all were in good humour. " Have you bathed ? " asked Dr. Jameson. " Yes," said we. "Where?" " In that fine pool ! " I answered, pointing to it. " What ! " he exclaimed with surprise — " In that pool there enclosed with wire ? " " Yes — why, what's the matter with it ? As to the wire, we don't know why it's there." u 2 292 WITH JiHODES IN MASnONALAND. "And you became aware of nothing?" " Of nothing- unusual," we replied. *' My dear friends," said he, "must I tell you why that pool is fenced in ? It is to prevent cattle from drinking water there and being caught by croco- diles. In fact, this is one of the most dangerous crocodile-places in all Mashonaland." Others told us the same afterwards. Well, I am glad we had not been warned hefore we went into the water, because, " where ignorance is bliss, 'tis folly to be wise." AVe were now at the entrance to Providential Pass, a narrow way leading tlirough some mountains. It is the pass through which the Pioneers were led by Mr. Selous into Mashonaland. It was believed at one time that that was the only way from the south by which a ^Yaggon could get into Mashonaland, and that it was by the guidance of Providence that the passage had been discovered — hence the name. The range of hills on the right of us was the Injaguzwe. All about this place diggers were busily engaged in opening reefs, and their waggons and tents gave the place a lively appearance. Mr. Khodes, Mr. Selous, Dr. Jameson, Mr. Barrow and I had our horses saddled and we rode to Long's Keef. Past kopjes, over hills, and through streams we rode, and within an hour and a half we reached our destination. We dismounted, tied our horses to trees, and went to inspect the reef of which we had heard so much. And we were not disappointed at what we saw. The reef projected between six and eight feet above the surface of the ground and was about twelve feet wide, showing LONG'S GOLD REEF. 293 visible gold on every side. Upon the top of one of Ihe rocks not far from there twelve round holes were to be seen, which no doubt had been made by natives, who stamped and ground the quartz. Indeed all the hill seemed to be auriferoris. We took some pieces of the quartz and stamped and washed tbera at a stream close by, and it was really wonderful to see how much gold they contained. The reef had been opened only three feet! This arrested the attention of the Premier. " Why do you not sink your shaft deeper, say thirty or forty feet ? " he inquired of Mr. Long, purposely in our presence, for, as the reader will remember, Mr. Perkins, the gold expert, had declared that Mr. Long was afraid to sink his shaft deeper because he (Mr. Loug) knew that he would find the reef at its end. "W^ell, Mr. lUiodes," answered Mr. Long, "you ask me the same question Mr. Perkins asked me, and I can only give you the'same answer I gave hiui. How can you expect me to continue shaft-sinking and so allow the rain to wet everything, and leave water standing where we are working, which would certainly produce fever amongst us ? No, sir ; the gold-bearing quartz is here, and even though this reef should run out at a depth of jive feet, I can make my fortune out of it. However, when I have finished the dwelling- house, which, as you see, I am now building, and have erected some barns, I sliall go on sinking the shaft." "Bravo! Mr. Long," I exclaimed; "you have an- swered well ! " 294 WITH It HO DBS IN MASHONALAND. " What do you think," asked Mr. Ehodes, " will be the depth of this reef ? " " Judging by what the top of it was," replied Mr. Long, "and by what I find it at this depth, I would say it runs very deep." "That is also as it appears to me, Mr. Long,'' rejoined the Managing Director of the Chartered Company, who seemed very pleased both with the reef and Mr. Long. " My good man," he continued, " when your dwelling-house and your barns are ready, do not delay sinking the shaft as deep as you can, and, if this reef does not run out, Mashonaland is made ! For a richer reef than this I have neither seen nor heard of." While we were speaking to Mr. Long some other miners came to us and invited us to come and see tiie reefs that they were working. They brought some quartz with them, which also appeared very rich. We had before been told of their reefs, but had no time now to visit them. I put a few pieces of quartz in my saddle-bag to give one or two of them to Mr. Lange in fulfilment of my promise to him, and to take the rest to Capetown for analysis. Towards evening we set out to our camp, and rode at a very hard pace, in order to avail ourselves, for the direction of our course, as much as possible of the daylight still left us. However, it was pitch dark when, at eight o'clock, we reached our waggons. When I think that Lord Eandolph Churchill passed within three miles of Long's gold mine — apparently the richest mine hitherto discovered in Mashonaland— and would not so much as go and look at it, I cannot help shaking my head in surprise. BTRANGE CONDUCT. 295 Why Perkins dissuaded him from going, and said that Mr. Long was afraid to follow the reef deeper, is another puzzle, for Mr. Long had told him precisely tlie same as he had told us ; besides, he was not so stupid as not to know that Mr. Long would erect uo dwelling-house and other permanent buildings if he (Mr. Long) did not feel sure of having struck a mine wliieh would take him long to exhaust. I suppose Lord Ilindolpli knew that he would get his money for each letter he inserted in the Dailij Graphic whether he went to see the most important sights in Mashonaland or not, so he did not think it necessary to ride twelve miles out of his way to see the interesting ruins of Simbabe, nor worth his while to visit Dickens' Reef, near Victoria, or Long's Keef, near Providential Pass. Ah ! Johannesburg, you are for the present the centre of attraction of the gold-loving world, but what will you be in comparison with Mashonaland when its hidden treasures are brougcht to light ! 296 WITH RHODES IN MASIIONALAND. CHAPTEE XXVI. Again on the march — An accident to my portmanteau — I am sad in consequence — A bard alternative before Eoeping and January — Off to Chibe to learn the truth about the Aden- dorff concession — An uphill climb — Chibe does not confirm the concession — We learn more details about Lobengula — My new boy. At two o'clock the following morning we again advanced with the waggons. I sat upon the waggon that January drove. Our road was not a very pleasant one, being overgrown in several parts by obstructing shrubs, and dangerously bordered by large trees. I had my portmanteau tied to one of the sides of the Avaggon, and there, I thought, it would be perfectly safe. About an hour after our start, as I was lying half-asleep in the waggon, I heard something tear, but, thinking that it was tlie waggon-canvas, and forgetting altogether about my portmanteau, I was not much concerned about it. At half- past five we arrived at the Tukwi Kiver, and outspanued on the other side of it. On going to see where the canvas had got torn, I found, to my sorrow, that not the canvas but my portmanteau was the thing rent. It had been torn by a tree almost right in two, and many of the articles I had stowed in it were missing, amongst them the A VISIT TO CHIBE'S TOWN. 297 palm-nut that I would not have sold for ten pounds, and some pipes, beads, and jerseys. I felt vexed with January, but more so with Roeping, for he had been following the waggons, and should have seen and picked up the lost articles. I felt so sad and out of humour about it that I abandoned my intention of going with the rest of the party to Chibe's kraal, and resolved to set out instead in search of my palm-nut. But the rest of the party would not hear of my turning back and not accompanying them. So it was at last decided that Eoeping and January should return on the waggons' track and find the missing things, failing to do which we promised to give them each twenty-four lashes ; we had to add this threat or else be pretty sure that those sly fellows would go halfway and then turn back to tell us — as Roeping did the day he had to seek tlie oxen — " We cannot find them." At seven o'clock we had our horses saddled, and Mr. Ehodes, Dr. Jameson, Jilr. Selous, Mr. Brabant and I rode to Chibe's town to hear from the mouth of the chief himself how much of what had been told us about him was true. He was the Chief with whom the Adeudorff concession was said to have been drawn up, and who was represented by the Adeu- dorff- Vorster clique as the true owner of Mashonaland — at least, of a part of it. Mr. Adendorff, it will be remembered, received the support of a considerable number of irresponsible Transvaal burghers, among them the Malans, one of whom, I may mention, was the son-in-law of General Joubert. Several citizens of the Orange Free State and Cape Colony favoured the movement. Three parties were despatched to the Free 298 WITH BHODES IN MASHONALAND. State, there to promote tlie cause of Mr. Adendorff by pleading the rights which had been obtained from the great paramount chief, Chibe ! Circulars were spread in the Transvaal urging the burghers to resist Rhodes taking possession of Banyailand. This led to commissions being despatched from the Cape to the Transvaal, to negotiate with the misinformed — the mis- led, I should say — parties; and proclamations were issued in the Cape Colony, as well as in the Transvaal, that none should take part in the hostile trek- movement. This naturally set some newspapers in agitation and led to numerous meetings being held to discuss the question. When any one of any public significance in the republics expressed his decision in favour of Mr. Rhodes, he was stigmatised as bribed by the latter. Well, we were now on our way to Chibe, the man who was said to have granted Messrs. Aden- dorff and Vorster their " Banyailand Concession." It was a beautiful morning. On our left chains of hills were facing us, and on our right the pretty Tukwi flowed. The country there is rich in woods and abounds in all kinds of wild fruits, amongst which are the medlar, the fig, the loquat, the date, the " German polony," the orange and the nacuna. We also passed several kraals and grain-fields. At ten o'clock we reached the foot of the mountain upon which the town of Chibe stands. There we stopped and took rest under three large wild fig-trees, then in full foliage, allowing our horses to graze in the meantime. After breakfast, Mr. Rhodes asked Mr. Brabant to go and inquire from Chibe whether we could meet him, and, if so, when. Mr. Brabant, who IN FATHER ADAM'S COSTUME. 299 could speak Kafir fluently and was personally ac- quainted with Chibe, being Secretary for Native Affairs in Mashonaland, then walked up the mountain to do his errand. Meanwhile hundreds of Kafirs, men, women and children, came to have a look at us, all as naked as Father Adam exce[it the women, who wore a slight covering, not more, however, than a scarf of ordinary size could serve to clothe. They stood at a distance from us, staring at us as if we were beings of a supernatural world. Many of them had calabashes or pitcheis upon their heads wherein to fetch water; but, in order to reach the stream, they woukl have to pass us by, and this they were afraid to do. AVlien, however, they were at last convinced that we intended them no harm, they went on with their work. The shee[), goats and cows we saw there looked remarkably nacII. 1 counted around us eighty-two children between eight and fifteen years of age ; seventy-tsvo men, who sat there with not a square inch of clothing on their bodies ; and sixty women, mostly young, who scanned us as though we were sitting in a glass case for ex- hibition. The longer they watched us the less they seemed to fVar us, and the nearer they came. Whilst still v.aiting fa* the return of iMr. J>rabant, Ciiibe kindly sent us a large calabash tilled with Kafir- beer; it was very welcome, for the day was warm, and we were thirsty. After staying away for more than two hours, Mr. Brabant returned with a message from the chief that he would bo glad to see us. At two o'clock the five of us ascended the mountain. The road was very steep. How the Kafir women 300 WITH ItBODES IN MASBONALAND. could walk it up and down every day with babes tied on their backs, aud heavy calabashes filled with water on their heads, I could not understand. But what else are the poor creatures to do? They are compelled to dwell on the highest ridges of the mountains in order to be as secure as possible against the enemy. Indeed, it was no pleasant task we had : not only was tlie road steep, but it was slippery, and therefore dangerous — if one slipped aud fell, the chances were that he would also roll some distance down the slope. Mr. Brabant, who acted as our guide, led us past several krantzes and huts, whilst we were being treated with instru- mental Kafir music from the little mountain-tops. Having completed all the turnings leading up to the Kafir town, we reached our destination — Chibe's resi- dence. We found the chief sitting on a small chair in front of his hut, with about eight aged indunas around him. Mr. Brabant was to be our interpreter, though Mr. Selous could also speak Kafir. As we approached the hut, the chief and the counsellors courteously bowed to us, and we returned the salutation. We could at once recognise which one was tlie cliief. Mr. Brabant opened the conversation. "What is your name?" he asked the Ban\ai ruler. " Chibe is my name," was the reply. " Are you the only captain in this country known by the name of Chibe ? " " Yes," the chief answered, " but my eldest brother also used to be called Chibe." [This elder brother was the predecessor of the present ruler.] Upon the request of Mr. Rhodes, Mr. Brabant aske I THE BOGUS CONCESSION. 301 Chibe how lie happened to be placed at the head of his race. " Thirteen years ago," he replied, " my brother was taken prisoner by Lobengula, carried to Lobengula's town, and flayed alive. Since that time I have ruled over this tribe." "If your eldest brother's name was Chibe, how is it that yon have the same name ? " " Chibe is not a man's name," was the response ; ''both of us had other names — Chibe means headman or chief — Chibe is only a title." Mr. Brabant then asked the chief whether he knew anyone with the name of Shebassa. This question was put because Mr. Adendorfif, when he began to waver as to Chibe, asserted that he had received his conces- sion from Shebassa, a greater man even than Chibe ! " Yes," answered the chief, *' I know Shebassa well ; he is a grandson of mine and a petty chief, but he is also one of my subjects." "And has Shebassa the right to make a concession of land to anybody without your permission ? " "No, certainly not!" was the answer. "He has no right to give away the smallest bit of ground without my consent." " But has not Shebassa perhaps made a concession to somebodv without your knowing of it ? " " No, I do not think so, because he knows that he is not allowed to do it, and that he would lose his life if he did. But even if he should have made such a con- cession it would have no value, for it is in my laud that he lives, and he has no right to dispose of my property." 302 WITH RHODES IN MA8H0NALAND. "But did you not grant a concession to white peopio to seek for gold in your land ? " " No, to none ! My land is hardly large enough for myself and my people ; why should I be so foolish as to allow white men to occupy it ? " " But you have signed a document — and your coun- sellors have signed it as witnesses — conceding your land to Mr. Adendorff?" "No! no!" answered Chibe excitedly; "who told you that ? " " Mr. Adendorff says so," answered our interpreter, " and he has such a document in his pocket." " That is a lie ! " replied the chief with emphasis. " I have given no concession of land to anybody." " Well, Mr. Adendorff has a document which he pretends to have received from you, and in which it is written that you have granted him a right over your entire land." " How could I make such a concession ? " rejoined the chief. " I am a rtder over a part of this land, but all the land does not belong to me. Here are many chiefs — some greater than myself — and what right have 1 to give away of their land? You have been deceived, that is all." Mr. Selous then came forward and addressed the counsellors — "Perhaps your captain has forgotten — but do you not recollect anything about such a concession ? " " No, nothing," was the unanimous reply ; " such a concession must be false." " What are the boundaries of your land ? " asked Mr. Selous. " THE GREAT BO QUE," LOBENQULA. 803 " The Liindi river on the west, the Indymas land on the north, the Simuto and Chellemanzi on the east, and the Mapan Zula on the south," answered the chief. " Is all your land of the same character as this part ? " " Yes, all the same." "Have you no open veld such as the wildebeest in- habits ? " " No," he replied ; " the open veld upon which the wildebeest is to be found belongs to the chiefs of the Lundi near Matabel eland, and of Chellemanzi's land on the other side of the Indymas." " How far," asked Mr. Selous, " does your country extend toward the highland ? " Chibe rose from his chair, and, accompanied by a few of his veteran indunas, walked a little way with us to a spot where we could have a good bird's-eye view of his land, and from there he pointed with his linger beyond the Inyaguzvve, that is, ten miles on this side of Fort Victoria. " Do you acknowledge anyone as overmaster in all these lands ? " we asked. " Yes," answered the aged chief, " we acknowledge the great rogue as the mighty chief to whom we have to pay taxes every year." '• And who is this ' great rogue ' ? " asked Mr. Selous. " The son of Umziligazi — Lobengula," responded Chibe. " Are there also other mamhos (chiefs) who pay taxes to the son of Umziligazi ? " " Oh, yes," was the answer, " there are many." S04 WITH BE ODES IN MASHONALAND. " Tell US to whom the rej5;ions beloDg over Avl)ich the following chiefs rule : Chellemauzi, Guto, Umtigeni, Matebi, Sitoutsi, Siniuto, ludina, Beri-ezema, Lomo- gendi, Kwetella, etc." "All these," answered Chibe, "belong to King Lobengula, and all those chiefs must pay an annual tax to him." I asked one of the indunas to show me from where we were standing, if he could, in which directions and how far the land of Chibe stretched. This he gladly did. " In what time of the year," I asked him, " have you to pay your tribute to Lobengula ? " " Noiv,'" replied tlie induna, and, pointing with his finger to a Kafir camp at the foot of the mountain, he said, " Do you see that ? Well, they are tax-gatherers from Lobengula. They are Matabele men, and they have come to get cattle and grain from us." " How much must you give ? " I inquired. " As much as they demand and can carry away. There is no tixed tariff. Sometimes they are satisfied with a little, but at other times they want a large quantity of everything." " How many of them are there in that camp ? " " About sixty." " And since when have they been here ? " " Since noon yesterday." Mr. Selous then resumed questioning Chibe. " Why," he asked, " do the Matabele tax-gatherers all enter the land at one and the same time ? " " Ah, that they do in order that, if any dispute arise on the amount of contribution demanded, or if any now 10 BEN COLLECTED TAXES. 305 chief offer resistance, all the tax-gatherers that have been sent to the various chiefs may be able quickly to assemble in order to attack and slay the rebel, and to take away by force as many of the women, children, cattle, sheep, and as much of the grain, as they are able to convey to the king." " Then you mean to say that if you refuse to comply with the demands of those sixty, all the men who have been sent out to the various chiefs to exact taxes will, immediately on receiving word of the matter, gather together, and with their combined force attack you ? " "Yes, exactly so, — every party of tax-collectors have their messengers, who in time of danger run as swiftly as they can from the kraal of one chief lo that of another, to summon the men together, and iu this way, within the space of a few days an army of some hundreds is raised, by which the rebellious chief is attacked and plundered ^ind butchered." "Thus," remarked 3Ir. Selous, "you must have as much respect for the sixty as for the six hundred ! " Chibe nodded. "And though," said he, "I should be strong enough to repulse and rout the six hundred, I would be very stupid if I did it, because Lobengula would then lead two thousand or three thousand men against me and would put me to death. Such has happened before to other chiefs." " But if one of the chiefs who is subject to Lobengula has a fall-out with the tax-collectors, do none of the others lend their aid ? " " No ! oh, no ! None dare ! None would ri>k it. If they do, they can oidy expect to be put to death X 306 WITH pjioDHis m masiio^alanp. and to have their wives and children captured and made slaves." We were further told that the tax-collectors were the choice soldiers of the Matabele king. It was strange that we should have come there at the very- time when the Matabele were going about demanding contributions. From one of the indunas I received as a present a walking-stick, with which I was much taken up, but whicli I lost soon afterwards. All the time we were engaged in the interesting interview with Chibe, Kafir women were to be seen inquisitively peeping throngli every hut-door near at the curious white men ! I stepped towards Chibe's hut to see in how far it differed from others, but suddenly the door was slammed before my eyes by one or two females inside, and barred. Oh, these poor beings are terribly afraid of the Avhite man ! At a little distance from us some Kafir maids were playing the flute and the ramkee ; the music sounded rather pretty. We were highly satisfied with our visit. We thanked Chibe for the important information he had so kindly given us, bade him farewell, and went to saddle our horses. It was now four o'clock. I may mention that, though Chibe * is a man of at * A year later, i.e., 1892, Chibe, foolishly relying on the expecta- tion that Lobengula would not dare to attack him owing to the presence of so many whites in the country who were known by the natives to entertain great aversion to cruelty and oppression, refused to imy the taxes demanded by Lobengula, with the result that a Matabele force was sent against him, his town plundered, a large portion of his people massacred, and he himself captured and slain. — Translator. A KAFIR BOY ANNEXES ME I 307 least eiglity years of age, he has still a very fair memory and considerable intelligence. There was a pretty boy of about twelve at the kraal on whom my eye had fallen, and whom I more than once treated with coffee and pieces of biscuit, and I was soon much attracted to him. He was very obedient to me ; every time I told him to run for the horses and bring them nearer to us, he gladly did so, and when at last we were ready to leave, he stood ready for departure also. 1 told Mr. Brabant to ask him what he intended to do. " I want to go with that master," replied the lad as he pointed his finger to me. " How can you do that ? " said Mr. Brabant. " I go," he replied, " with the two Kafirs who are carrying the food-baskets to the waggons, and from there I go with that master." " But, my dear boy," I said to him, through our interpreter, " I live very, very far from here, and what will your parents say if you go with me ? You cannot leave your father and mother without their consent ? " " Yes, I can," he answered ; " my father and mother have many children besides me." When I saw that he was really determined to follov,^ us, I asked the two Kafirs wlio were carrying the food- baskets whether they thought the parents of the chihl would miss him much if he left them. " No, sir," was the answer ; " the parents will know that he has gone with you, and will not care much about it." I then asked Mr. Khodes wbat he thought of it. "Well," ho replied, "if the boy earnestly wishes to X 2 o08 WITH BEODES IN MASHONALAND. go with you, take him ! He seems a good and funny little fellow." The boy almost leaped out of his skin from joy when we told him he could go with us. We then bade Chibe's town " Good-bye," and, with Mr. Brabant again as leader, we once more walked down the steep, winding, slippery road. Here and there we passed a small group of Kafirs. Very slowly we descended the hill, and very cautiously, in order to escape falling. AVe took the shortest cuts to our waefgons. The two Kafirs followed us closely, and so did my boy, who ran like a little buck over the way, and every now and then brought me some wild fruit, among them a few wild oranges, which I took with me to Capetown. At six o'clock, we arrived at our waggons, having travelled the distance in half an hour less time than in the morning. I there immediately inquired of January and Keeping whether they had found the things that I had lost on the road. To my joy, they had, though not all — the palm-nut and some pieces of clothing were returned to me, but my pipes and some other articles the boys assured me they could not find, but I did not mind that. My portmanteau and some of the canvas the thoughtful Captain Tyson had meanwhile got repaired by a German who was living near the Tukwi Kiver and understood work of that kind. My portmanteau was now again as strong as ever. IMy little Kafir attendant seemed greatly pleased Mith the large company, but ]\Ir. Selous made a bet with Mr. Khodes tliat the boy would very soon run back to his kraal. MY NEW BOY VANISHES. 309 We enjoyed a fine supper, and spent our last night with Mr. Selous, Dr. Jameson and Mr. Brabant in a very pleasant way. At three the following morning we bade these gentlemen God-speed, and again took up the journey. My Kafir boy was nowhere to be seen ; no doubt he had turned back with the Kafirs who had carried the baskets. Perhaps this was best, after all. 310 WITH nilODES IN MASIIONALAND. CHAPTER XXVII. Captain Tyson's dip — How Mr. Vluggi lost his way— A grim game — A meeting with some disappointed diggers — The scene of young Hackwell's death — A foolish hunt — I shoot an alligator — Captain Tyson proposes a race — I accept the challenge, and come off victorious. Mr. van der Bijl, son of the miicli-respected Lourens, now joined our party with the intention to accompany us up to Tub', whence he would return with the waggons together with Dr. Jameson and Mr. James. At a quarter to seven we arrived at a green spruit. Some beautiful large trees, amongst which was a huge fig-tree, stood near the stream. We had hoped to have a nice nap under them, but on our return from our bath we found the place occupied by six diggers and six donkeys. Nothing was left for us but to return to our waggons and have our nap there. Close to where mo had outspannei there was a pool into which a smooth rock projected. At the lower side of this rock Captain Tyson, who was as much afraid of crocodiles as men of old were of ghosts, stood in Adam's apparel washing himself. The soapy water naturally caused the stone to be very slippery, but the captain apparently did not think of that. Finished CAPTAIN TYSON'S MUD BATE. 311 with washing, and having dried his body, he wanted to get to the top of the rock, there to dress ; but lo ! he had hardly taken his second step when his foot slipped and he tumbled heal over heels into the pool, disappearing from our sight for a few seconds. When his head appeared above water again, there was such an expression of bewilderment iti his eyes, such a look of terror, that, if we had known no better, we wonld have sworn a crocodile had got hold of him. Oh, I shall never forget those eyes! Help him we could not, and try the slippery rock again he would not venture; the only course open to him was to swim with all his might to the bank, a little distance from the rock. But misfortunes don't come singly. The side of the pool at which the poor captain climbed out was so muddy and dirty that he looked, when he again stood on shore, like a pig that had been rolliiio: in the mire. Tears of lauo^hter ran down the eyes of Mr. Lange, Mr. van der Bijl and myself, as we stood beholding the amusing sight. We sent a Kafir with a bucket of clean water to wash our unfortunate friend. Mr. Vluggi, a German gentleman, here took break- fast with us. It was interesting to hear how he had once lost his way in Banyailand. Early in the morning of the 22nd of October last he sprang out of his waggon with only his pyjamas on, and went in pursuit of some guiuea-fowls. The birds drew him farther and farther from the waggon, until, when he wanted to return, after having chased them two hours, he was completelv nonplussed as to which direction to take. He ran now this way, now that, but only to find himself each time 312 WITH lUlODES IN MASHONALAND. at a, place he had never seen before. He was still ia liis pyjamas, and all that he had with him was a shot-gun and a game-bag. What was he to do ? He now became seized with anxiety ; bnt indefatigably he continued seeking his way. But hours and hours elapsed and he had not made any progress; he had shouted, he had fired, but all to no effect. At about six ill the evening he arrived at a grassy spot near to a pool of water, and there, tired out and abandoning all expectation of finding his way ere night, he sat down in the faint hope that some Kafir might turn up and relieve him from his plight. Night approached and Vluggi still found himself alone. Fortunately he had matches in his game-bag. Before darkness set in, hundreds of animals came to drink water at the pool, and Vluggi, who noticed all this, became aware that his situation was more dangerous than he had expected. He collected some branches and grass and arranged a little sheltering- place for himself, and there he was left undisturbed till midnight, when some lions in the reeds close by began to roar. The fire he had lit he made larger, thinking by that means to keep the beasts from him ; but, instead of retreating, the animals came nearer, and Vluggi was startled by two lions making their appearance. His anxiety was now raised to the highest pitch ; but, retaining his presence of mind, he ran to the one side of the fire when the lions were on the other, the animals keeping at a radius of some ten yards from the fire. If they had had the sense to separate — the one to lie in wait for the man whilst the other drove him round — they would soon have MR. VLUGGrS LION ADVENTURE. 313 liad a good meal, but they were too stupid to do that. AVell, as it was, the circular chase continued for a while. Mr. Vluggi had his shot-gun in his hand, but he would not shoot at the animals, for he knew he could not kill them with guinea-fowl shot, and to have injured them would only have infuriated them and have made his position worse. He decided to fire one or two shots in the open air. The lions answered the report by a few loud growls, and trotted away. The moon at last appeared above the horizon, and at four o'clock in the morning Mr. Vluggi discovered which direction he should take. Keeping in the correct course, he arrived at nine o'clock at the telegraph wire. Guided by this wire, he continued his way northwards until he cime to the river on the banks of which his waggon was standing. Naturally he was then exceedingly fatigued ; he fired off some shots, and his Kafir.'^, hearing them, ran towards the place whence the report came, and there found their master in tattered pyjamas. " Never," said Mr. Vluggi, " shall I forget those thirty hours ! " Mr. Vluggi and a fellow-traveller of his, Mr. Forbes, went through a rather unpleasant business the day previous to our meeting them. Some Kafirs had stolen an ox from Mr. Vluggi. Discovering this, his companion and he endeavoured to find the thieves by means of tracing their footsteps, and in this they succeeded. The footprints led them to a kraal, and there they found the skin and some of the flesh of the ox. The punishment they inflicted on the guilty party was fifteen laches with the sjambok to each 314 WITH RHODES IN MASffONALAND. man, and a payment to be made by them of nine goats and a number of assegais. Tiie punishment was carried out in full. The assegais we were shown. Mr. Vluggi is a gentleman well known to our Premier, as well as to Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange. He was now on his way to Mashonaland as manager there of the De Beers Syndicate. At four in the afternoon we were ready to resume the journe)'. But before we set out I thought I would pay a visit to the six diggers, who were still sitting under the fig-tree with their donkeys. I asked them where they came from. " From the so-called gold-fields," answered one. " And where are you going ? " " To the Cape Colony," they replied. " And why did you not stay a little longer to test your fortune ? " " Because that's all nonsense ! " was the surly answei-. " Look here,'" I said, " do you see the sun ? — well, as true as you see that sun, you will regret that you have left Mashonaland. You are treading upon gold- fields and you don't know it ; fortune lies beneath your feet, and you won't have it. ]\rark my words, you will repent this blunder." One of the six earnestly looked into my eyes and said, " Sir, every word you have just uttered is true. I have told my friends the same, but they won't listen to me." *' Too late, sir," replied another; " Capeward we go!" I left them, and we de[)arted with our waggons. Towards evening we outspanned upon an elevation, and the following morning at two we again set forth and WHERE TOUNG EAOKWELL DIED. ?A^ journeyed through a very pretty region, fertile aud in every way fit for cattle and sheep. At six we stopped on the border of the Lundi, aud, before we allowed our waggons to cross it, we rode through it on horseback to ascertain its depth. The Lundi is a wide, strong river, bearing some resemblance to the Tuli. It was at this river that, twelve months before, it was expected the Matabele would attack the Pioneers, under command of Major Johnson; and it was also this river in which several brave young men, during the last rainy season, lost their lives in their attempt to cross it. Near to the stream are to be seen the graves of seven men, whose names are written on a board serving as a tombstone. It was here also that the gallant young Hackwell met his death. For several successive days he had been continually passing from one bank of the river to the other, carrying provisions across to the Pioneers. Eventually he caught a cold, the cold grew into fever, and the fever resulted in his death. The river still presents much inconvenience to passen- gers duiiiig the rainy season ; and it is very dangerous for the traveller to linger for any length of time on its banks, inasmuch as the muddy soil renders the air very humid and, consequently, fever-producing. But what is one to do when one comes to a stream and finds it too strong to cross ? At six o'clock Mr. Rhodes, Mr. James and I went out hunting. We rode down by the river's side for some miles, and chased up guinea-fowls, pheasants, hares, etc., but they did not give us much chance of shooting at them. Next we saw, at a distance, five koodoo-cows with calves, but failed to ?hoot any. 316 WITH ETIODES IN 3IASII0NALANJ). At last Mr. E'lodes shot a pheasant. We could see ill the sand the distinct traces of hippopotami, lions, bucks and many other animals, small as well as large ; but the animals themselves kept out of sight. Nothing was passed which was not admired — trees and shrubs, hills and dales, and, crowning all, the majestic river itself, which ran now wide, then narrow, now straight, then winding, now smooth, then rippling, whilst here and there a crocodile was to be noticed on a sandbank. To have reached the place where the game was usually met with we should have continued our course for another hour ; but for that we did not feel inclined. We decided to cross the Lundi, so as to return to our waggons by a different way to that by which we had come. In the middle of the stream stood a little green island. We made for it, tied our horses to each other upon it, and took a bath. I must say it was foolish of us to turn back to our waggons so soon. We should have taken breakfast and gone out for a day's hunt. If we had taken a three or four hours' ride up the river we very probably would have met the giraffes whose footprints we saw almost everywhere. But, instead, we had acted like children who knew no better. We had set out in the morning before we had breakfasted and before the horses had had anything to eat. As was to be expected, when eleven o'clock arrived our empty stomachs craved for food, as did those also of our horses. Nothing was left us but to return to our camp. Such hunting was indeed ridiculous. I am glad to say that I was not the initiator of it. On the other side of the stream we found the trees THE SUOAlt-LOAF lilVKll 317 and shrubbery no less dense than on the banks from which we had just crossed over. Strange to say, though the fresh footprints of hippopotami, as well as those of lions, were to be observed on the ground wherever we looked, not a single hippopotamus or lion did we see. For all I know, however, we might have passed several of the latter, because (m the shores of the Lundi the growth is very dense at some parts, and it is in such places that lions generally hide during day-timo. At half-past eleven we were back at our waggons. The first thing we did there was, of course, to take break- fast, and an unusually large one it was. At three in the afternoon we visited an old ruin which, to a small extent, resembled the temple at Simbabe and appeared to be the remains of a building of burnt brick. At half-past four we left the Lundi, and next stopped at the Sugar-Loaf River, or, as the Kafirs call it, the Ingwesi. It was striking to see how much the Sugar- Loaf Hill (from which the stream gets its name) re- sembled a real sugar-loaf. We left the river at two the following mornino; and at seven we outspanned again. After taking coffee we once more set out for a hunt. My horse was very slow and could not keep pace with those of my two companions, Mr. Rhodes and Mr. James. I therefore ceased accompanying them, and began parrot-shooting instead, but the birds were so wild that I had no chance of hitting any. However, I shot some turtle-doves. Hiding up the side of the stream, I came to a beautiful bathing-place. I tied my horse to a tree and began undressing myself to take a dash in the cool, clear 318 WITE BHODES IN MASUONALAND. water. Looking up to a rock in front of me, I was startled to see what I took to be a large cayman. The animal, instead of fleeing out of my sight, remained sitting at perfect ease, and gazed at me contemptu- ously. "My friend," I thought, "this impudence I will not tolerate, and possibly you intend to make closer acquaintance with me, and — prevention is better than cure." I took up my gun and shot the animal, sending it spinning down the rock. Going to look what it was, I found it to be a young alligator. I took my bath in peace and returned to the waggons. Shortly afterwards the other huntsmen arrived, bring- ing with them nothing more than a couple of turtle- doves. We left the Ingwesi, and at seven in the evening we halted at an open spot surrounded by a few trees. We resumed the journey at half-past three the follow- ing morning, and at six we were compelled to stop again because of an accident to our waggon ; it ran against a tree, the axle broke, and one of the fore-wheels fell out. This caused great disappointment, and was a source of much trouble. We could do nothing with the waggon but leave it behind, for it was now utterly useless to us. All the goods that had been packed upon it we i-emoved to the other waggons. The next river we came to was the Nionetse. Here we stopped and invigorated our bodies in the fresh stream. This was the place from which Captain Tyson wired us in November last that two of his waggons lunl capsized, and that a horse had gone astray. The weather was exceptionally hot, the thermometer reading 100 deg. in the shade. The sky soon became WALKING FOR A WAGSn. 319 overcast with clouds, and we expected a heavy storm. After we had taken our bath and had finished break- fast, Captain Tyson and I happened to get into con- versation about tlie hill near by on which the telegrapli- office was standing. The Captain declared that it was high and dangerous to climb, and he felt very indignant when I told liim that I could walk up to the office and back without feeling that I had done so. " Well," he said, " the shortest time I took to walk up and down the hill was two hours, and yoa won't do tliat ! " " Gracious me! " I thought, '' what does the man take me for ?"—" Well," I said to him, "let's go for a race, and I'll bet you that I'll walk the distance in less time than you will." " Done ! " he exclaimed. " How much do you bet?" " Well, what would you like to bet ? " "Five pounds," he readily suggested. " All right," I answered ; " but remember that it is twelve o'clock now, and it is so warm that every crow is yawning, and we have just been having our meal." The Captain smiled triumphantly, expecting that I was going to give in or propose a compromise ; but ho was mistaken — I was too proud to do tiiat. l>otli of us then got ready for the race, Mr. Rhodes smilingly looking on. " You are like two little children!" remarked the latter. " It is an act of folly to walk that height in this great heat." But neither of us would yield to the other, and off we started. Mr. Rhodes, Mr. Lange and Mr. James, 320 WITH liBODES IN MASlIONALANlJ. silly thongli they thought we were, took a lively interest in the race. j\[y rival soon lost ground, and the farther we walked the greater became the distance between us. The liill, which was three hundred feet high, I climbed like a boy. I had lost much weight during my travel from Beira to Umtali, so I was able easily to stand a little exertion. Captain Tyson, on the other hand — who had been living a kingly life in a waggon during the time Mr. Rhodes, Major Johnson and I were journeying from Beira to Salisbury and had to contend with so many adversities — had considerably gained in weight. Well, soon he began to breathe like a whale. I rested on the summit at the telegraph-office for a few minutes, and when my friend was half way up the hill I made my way down again. He walked with a stick, I with nothing. At a quarter to two I was back at the waggons. I again rested a while and then partook of a bath along with Mr. Rhodes, Mr. Lange and Mr. van der Bijl. When we came out of the water Captain Tyson returned from liis walk ; he was as wet with perspiration as a man who had been playing football for the first time. I had compassion on him, for he looked sorely fatigued. His gentle, friendly glance at me deprived me of the heart to chaff him. " Good friend," I said to him, " I have beaten you ! In w^alking, there's no doubt, I am your master. Now, let us have a whiskey together. Your five pounds you may keep, for you have already been sufficiently punished." ( S21 ) CHAPTER XXVIII. Secluded huts — Evidence of a struggle between animals — A view of a liuge crocodile — Captain Tyson deceived — He has a nasty fall — At the Boobi River — In search of water — The snake hunts the cayman and the boys hunt the snake — Van Riet's wonderful adventure. Between three and four there was a heavy downpour of rain, and the atmosphere in consequence became much cooler and fresher. Early the next morning- Mr. Rhodes, Mr. James and I went out hunting. We rode by the side of the river until we came to a ti'ibutary, up along which we turned. On the top of a steep kopje some distance off we discerned three Kafir huts built upon rocks. This we thought strange, because all the country round about was a lonesome wilderness in which there was no trace of human beings, and in which we did not in the least expect to find any. We made in the direction of the huts, and soon we arrived at the gardens belonging .to the Kafirs on the kopje, but of the Kafirs themselves we spied none. A drizzling rain now came down, and instead of the air — which had been misty during the morning — becoming clearer in consequence, it grew darker, and so prevented us from seeing far ahead. No wonder, therefore, that we saw Y 322 WITH BHODES IN MABEONALANI). no game, although we were constantly coming- across fresh footmarks. We crossed a brook, and in the soft drift-sand on one side of it we could clearly see that a struggle between two large animals had taken place there a little pre- viously. We alighted from our horses in order to examine the marks in the sand more closely, and we distinctly observed the fresh footprints of a lion and a koodoo. The only conclusion to be drawn was that a lion had there sprung upon a koodoo and dragged it away. I was then anxious to trace the lion on its " spoor," but, unfortunately, none of us had any ex- perience in lion-hunting, and we knew it would be dangerous to attack such an animal when on its prey. It is a pity we did not have Mr. Selous with us at this juncture. Riding farther we soon found that we had taken a wrong course. Luckily, however, the weather soon afterwards cleared up, and we again descried the three huts we had noticed on the rocky cliff, so we knew whereabout we were and which way to take. Crossing- some streamlets, on the side of which there were some large pools, Mr. James and I, riding side by side, discerned on the brink of one of them a large black object. We rode a little nearer to it to find out what it was. "Man," said my companion, "it is a monstrous crocodile." " Well," I suggested, " let us dismount here and creep nearer before we shoot at it." " No," said Mr. James, " let us ride a little further before wo fret down." movniED WITH tit ^n AS. 823 As I had expected, just as we were about to dismount the crocodile leapt into the water. It was the largest crocodile that I bad ever seen. A little before eleven we were back at our waggons, and at half-past three in the afternoon we left the Niouetse. At seven we outspanned upon a fine sheltered spot, but we had hardly done so when the noisy hyaenas again began provoking us. " Trouble to-night again ! " I heard one of our boys say. We commanded the Kafirs to collect a large pile of wood, so that we might keep the fire lit all through the night. As we had expected, the hyseua's howling was soon followed by the lion's roaring. The latter kept a long way off, but the impudent hyaenas repeatedly frightened our oxen, and would certainly have tackled them had our boys not done their best to keep them away. Only a few nights previously, near to the same place, some hyrcnas tore open the belly of an ox whilst it was tied to the draught-rope of the waggon of a trans- port-rider. The latter heard the ox pull about and bellow, so he jumped from his waggon with his gun to see what the matter was, expecting to meet a lion, but when he came to the ox he was just in time to see some half-dozen hyaenas run off. He fired at them, but, as the night was very dark, his aim was bad and he missed. The following morning he was obliged to cut the throat of the poor animal. We resumed our journey at half-past four in the morning, and at six we arrived at the »Sawie lliver. Captain Tyson rode on hors(.*back and kept a long Y 2 824 WITH lillODES IN MASnONALANl). distance ahead of us. He did not expect tliat we would outspan at the river, nor had it been our intention to do so ; but when we came to it the water was so tempting that we resolved to tarry there a while. Captain Tyson, ignorant of this, steadily rode on until, twenty-five minutes afterwards, he discovered on looking round that no w-aggon was following. He at once turned hack, and three-quarters of an liour after we had seen him last he arrived at the waggons, where he was hailed by a row of laughing faces. The good captain felt somewhat perplexed. We went into the river. Poor Captain Tyson ! He undressed himself, stepped into the water, then got upon a large smooth stone, but he had hardly done so when his foot slipped, he lost his balance, and, as lie fell, bang ! struck his head against another stone. As quick as thought, however, he stood upon his legs again and feigned not to have been hurt in the least. Of course we had another iolly laugh at the expense of our unlucky friend. " My dear man," I said to him, '' what is the matter with you? Why have you made it a rule to fall like that ? You'll break your neck if you go on like this ! " " Well, old man," he replied, " if you had fallen as J had, you would certainly have made no joke of it ! " " But, my friend," I said, with a show of sympathy, " I started when I saw you fall — I started very much — but when you rose so suddenly and showed so calm, innocent a face, I could not help laughing." Seeing that the Captain's head had really had a bad collison with the stone, I tried my utmost to be serious CAPTAIN TYSON'S FALL. 325 and show liiiii due compas.sion, but, as the picture of the ludicrous mishap and the Captain's sedate attitude following it reappeared to my mind, I found it impossible to retain my serenity, and, much to the irritation of my friend, as Avell as to my own dissatis- faction, I could not prevent another hearty outburst. I myself had had two falls similar to those of the Captain, though not Dearly so serious. We returned to our waggons and had our breakfast, after which we had some fun in teasing Captain Tyson about his clumsiness. The Captain, who sat near to me, then made me feel the part of his head that had struck the stone. There was a big bump. Three minutes afterwards he suddenly and unexpectedly fell forward in an unconscious state, his head dropping on my breast. Fun was now changed into seriousness. We washed his head with vinegar and resorted to every means available to get his senses restored. Soon after he recovered. The laud round about us was hilly and woody, and the veld of a good character. Polony-trees, so called from the shape of their remarkably large fruits, grew there in abundance. I picked a " polony " twenty-two inches in length, sixteen inches in circumference, and fifteen pounds in weight. It is dangerous to sit under a polony-tree when its fruits are ripe : the fall of a fruit upon one's head would stun him. At two o'clock the following morning we iuspanned, and at six we stopped at the Boobi Kiver. Half an hour later Mr. Rhodes, Mr. James and I went out hunting. We stayed out more than two hours and came across some half-a-dozen koodoos, but it was in 326 WITH EffODES m MASnONALANB. vain that we shot at them. At eleven o'clock we returned to our waggons to take breakfast. It was at this place, the Boobi, that Lord Kandolph shot the lions, qiiaggas and koodoos — at least, so he said in his letters. It is, however, true that the shores of the Boobi has a reputation for abounding in numerous kinds of large game. We were met by Messrs. Fry and Elliott at the river. These gentlemen complained that there were not sufficient huts and barns for the whites in the country. At four we left the Boobi and at seven we had finished our day's journey. At two the next morning we started again, and at seven we arrived and stopped at the Umshabetsi, a tributary of the Limpopo, and a large, dry, sandy river closely resembling the Buffalo, Dwyka and Gamka in the Cape Colony — an indication that we no longer found ourselves on the plateaux of Mashonaland. We had to dig in the sand for water, and our oxen had to be sent several miles down the river to drink at some pools. The dusty road and the oppressive weather had made our bodies sorely need a bath, but there was no water near in which to take it. Captain Tyson, Mr. Lange and I decided to saddle our horses, ride down the river and take a plunge into the first pool at which we should arrive. We rode and rode — and it was not before we had ridden at least eight miles that we came to some pools. Our thirsty oxen had to walk the same distance. We told the boys who were driving the poor animals to let them graze round about the water, there being plenty of grass, that we would send them their dinner with some A SNAKE AND A CAYMAN FIGHT. 327 of the other Kafirs, and that they need not return to the waggons before half-past three. Feeling fresh again we returned to our camp. Mr. Ehodes meanwhile had his elastic bath filled with water, and so was able to enjoy a bath without going eight miles for it. Not far from our waggons some transport-riders had outspanned. I had a short chat with them. They told me that one of their oxen had been seriously bitten by a hysena the previous night, despite their dogs' barking. As we were sitting iu our camp we heard some exciting noise outside. On going to see what was the cause of it, we found Fortuin, January and a few others busy seeking a snake. Fortuin and January had been taking a nap under a tree M'lien they were suddenly startled by a heavy object falling between them — it was a cayman. Hardly had they sprung to their feet when down came another creature — it was an immense snake in pursuit of the cayman. The boys then tried to kill the hideous peace-dislurbers, but failed, the animals finding their way into some thorny thickets where they were lost sight of. All along the river grew prickly trees and shrubs — another proof that we were no longer on the high land. The Umshabetsi we left at four, and from there we rode in one continuous cloud of dust till seven, when we halted on a hill, there to pass tlie night. As on the previous evening we were again greatly annoyed by hysenas. Lions, too, were near ; but we were now upon an open place, and so we felt ourselves pretty secure ; besides, it was moonlight. It was a warm night 828 WITH rillODES IN MASnONALAND. -r-an exceedingly ^Yarm one — so much so, that we could hardly sleep. In the waggon the air was too close, so Mr. Lange and I spread our karosses outside on the bare ground, and lay there without any cover- ing. The Premier's couch was of a different kind. An armchair was his bed. Throwing himself into it with his head resting over the back of it, he slept in that posture all night. At ten minutes past two tlie following morning we set out again and had to put up with as much dust as we had had the day before. At sunrise we came to the Umzingwane, a broad stream with densely wooded banks. It was between this river and our last lialtino-- place that van Riet, a youth much liked by all who knew him, spent those memorable, miserable forty days of his life. He was on his way to Salisbury with some Sisters of Mercy, when, one day, having walked too fi.r from his waggons, he lost his way. The Sisters on missing him naturally grew alarmed, and sent out men in search of him ; but, after waiting for him for several days and discovering no trace of him, they naturally presumed that he had met his death some- how and somewhere in the wilds, and so continued their journey to Salisbury Avithout him. To their extreme amazement and joy, however, the lad was again found and handed over to them. To relate in detail the sufferings and anxiety the young fellow had had to endure during those forty days he wandered in the wilds would require as many pages. The hunts- men who discovered him had been in search of water when they observed the boy's footprints in the sand. BESCUED FROM DEATH. 329 Following them, they eventually arrived at the spot they sought. There the boy sat with bent back and in utter despair and misery in front of a little hole of water that he had dug with his hands. His finger- nails were worn away up to the naked flesh, having been employed for digging into the hard earth for roots and water, and his teeth were blunt and broken, owing to the hard wild dates he had been chewing. He was not far from dead when discovered, and was already semi-unconscious. In fact, he would not have lived a day longer had he not been rescued. The kind hunters did all within their power to restore his strength, and in this they happily succeeded. 330 WITH liHODES IN MASHONALAND. CHAPTER XXIX. A koodoo shot — Mr. Rhodes' light waggon — I over-persuade my companions, and we all start together for Bechuanaland — Pikenin leaves me — On the track of our previous journey — An invitation at Macloutsi in which I am not included. Not far from us some waggons stood oiitspanned. Two of the gentlemen belonging to tliem — the one a Mr. Malherbe and the other a Mr. Vivier — came to us and invited ns to accompany them on a giraffe-hunt. They assured us that they were experienced huntsmen and knew the country well. We accepted the invita- tion. The hunting-party consisted of Mr. Rhodes, Mr. Malherbe, Mr. Vivier, Mr. James, Roeping and myself, all on horseback. Having ridden a couple of hours, we came to a place where the footmarks of various large animals were to be seen, amongst them those of the giraffe. We rode on and met a group of koodoos. Becoming excited, everyone, except myself, dashed in mad pursuit after the animals, each choosing a different course, with the result that within a few minutes I could not see a man, not even Roeping. Bang ! bang ! bang ! I heard on every side, but my fellow-travellers were soon such a distance from me tlu.t not the firinir even could I hear. I rode on, but, coming acioss neither man nor koodoo, I decided to ride back A SUCCESSFUL SHOT. 331 along- the river ; but I bad bardly started doing so wben Mr. Malberbe appeared — be was cbasing a koodoo be bad wounded. As be passed me, be pointed to the sand to drops of blood of tbe injured animal. Shortly afterwards Mr. Ebodes, Mr. James and Roeping also turned up. We followed Mr. Malberbe, and soon beard bim call, " Here be is ! " Tbe poor koodoo could not proceed one step farther. Tbe bind part of tbe animal rested on the ground, whilst its fore-legs supported its front, tbe bullet having passed through the poor creature's spine. It was a beautiful full-grown bull with fine horns. We killed it, skinned it, cut it in pieces, and took wdth us as much of the meat as we could carry. Mr. Malberbe took tbe skin and the horns with bim. We were now undecided as to what to do, to continue the hunt or return to our camp. If we went farther we would in all probability come across giraffes, whose fresh footprints we observed in abundance, but the weather was so warm and depressing that we felt more inclined to cool ourselves in our camp than pursue game. We returned, leaving Mr. Vivier behind. On our way back we rode through a spruit of the Umzing- wane, where we noticed a young crocodile leaping into a small pool. We tried to get the animal out of the water by means of sticks, but in vain. We reached our waggons a little before noon. ]\tr. Vivier arrived at one. He bad found the giraffes, be said, and bad pursued them some distance, but, on becoming aware that none of us were following him, gave up the chase as not worth the trouble, for be knew that, supposing he shot a giraffe, without assistance he 832 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. could do nothing with it. He was displeased that we had left him so soon, but we cared but little for that. We left the Umzingwane at four iu the afternoon, journeyed right on for five houriJ, and ontspanned upon an open plain. Night set in and, with it, the vexatious yelping of the hyaenas. Nothing would have pleased me more that night than to see every hyaena in the land a carcass. Mr. Rhodes again slept in his armchair. At two the next morning we set off again, and at three we passed the River Spagi, on one of the borders of which there stood a small straw-built hotel — an ordinary hut. At six we came to a spruit within five miles of Fort Tuli. Ahev stopping there three hours we again advanced, and at half-past ten — Saturday, November the 14th — we reached Fort Tuli. On our previous trip to the Noith we arrived at the fort on the 1st of November ; it was now, therefore, a little more than a year since we had last visited it. The previous year on my arrival there I felt as though I had reached the northern end of Africa — so far the place seemed to be from Capetown ; now, however, I felt as though I stood on the border of the Cape Colony. It being a hot day, the Tuli River was a boon to us ; if it had not been there, I do not know how we would have borne the excessive heat. In the afternoon it began to rain, and the air became cooler in con- sequence. The light waggon for which Mr. Rhodes had wired to Palapye had arrived at Tuli. 3Ir. Lange and I went to examine it. To my judgment, the vehicle, though very light, was pretty strong. Not so, however, did it appear to the eye of my friend ; in no wa}' did it suit j\}y HOUSE GIVES me a bath. o3o his taste, and ho denounced it as being too i'lail to carry the combined weight of Mr. Rhodes, Captain Tyson, himself and me. He therefore proposed that we should leave it and ride instead in the coach of ]\rr. Zeederbei'g, and he succeeded in getting the Premier to agree with him. To Captain Tyson it was immaterial what we did. I, however, pleaded for the little waggon, and I ordered a blacksmith to tightly tie some leather straps around its springs so as to strengthen them. The following day the weather was just as 0])pre?sive as, if not worse than, it had been the day before. In the morning we rode on horseback to the river, once more to take delight in the sweet, clear water. On our return, the fore-feet of my horse sank into the clayey sand of the river, with the result that I slid over its head into tlie water, which was four feet deep. Of course my clotlies became soaking wet, but I did not mind it — in fact, I rather liked it — for the rays of the sun were scorchiugly hot. My horse easily got up again. In the afternoon ^Vv. Zeederberg arrived at Tuli with his coach drawn by eight dapple-grey horses, which looked very attractive. Mr. Zeederberg urged the Premier to get into the coach and travel with him to the Transvaal, but I detested the idea of taking the same road we had travelled the year before, and my antipathy to it was strengthened by the prospect of our meeting the Adendorff party again, of whose sickening argumentation in favour of their so-called Banyailand Concession I had had more than enough. I was deter- mined, though all my companions should have decided to leave mo, not to return home viCi Transvaal — I 334 WITH RHODES IN MASIIONALAND. wanted to travel with the light waggon through Khama's land and Bechuanaland. The pro's and con's of the two routes having been fully discussed, it was finally decided that we should all leave with the new little spring waggon at three the next morning. At first we had intended to leave at ten o'clock in the evening, but, as there was no moonlight, and as it was I'ather rainy, we had to postpone our departure till the morning. The same evening we were invited to dinner by Captain Tye. The guests, most of whom were military officers, numbered about fifteen. At ten o'clock I returned to our waggons. Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange did not retire before twelve. Bandmaster had sinned against Mr. Lange in some way or other during the evening, and the latter so lost liis temper about it that he kicked up a very unseemly row with the poor mortal, and it terminated in Bandmaster getting a severe thrashing — a punishment wholly undeserved. I was very cross with my friend, especially so because it was the last night that Bandmaster was to be with us — he was to quit our service the following day. And how could I sleep whilst such a noise was going on ! No, with all due respect and love to our Epie, I must say he was very unreasonable that night. I had never seen him so turbulent before. We left Fort Tuli on Monday morning at half-past four and had to travel in a very muddy road, as it had rained all the night. We sat, six of us, in the little waggon — Mr. Khodes and myself at the back. Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange in the middle, and Tonie and Arri in front. 'J'lie two waggons and the cart with 1 LOSE FAITHFUL PIKENLK 335 whicl] we had reached Tuli, our riding-horses with saddles and bridles, our bedding and a quantity of clothing, we loft behind. We also bade farewell to Sergeant James, who was to return \\\i\\ Bosbolc, Jas, Roeping, Zwartboy and Pikenin to Mashonaland with the waggons. Mr. van der Bijl was to follow us to Capetown with Bandmaster, Jan Kaapnaar and Matokwa. Thus, of all the Inhambane Kafirs, Matokwa was the only one who travelled through to Capetown. It had all along been understood that Pikenin should go with us to Capetown, and it was only on our arrival here that it was decided he should return to Salisbury, there to be employed by Dr. Jamesou. At this decision I was naturally sorely disappointed, and Pikenin no less, not to mention the dissatisfaction Matokwa felt, who had virtually been deceived, for, I presume, he would never have left his comrades to spend his remaining days in a country entirely foreign to him if he had not relied on Pikenin* accompanying liim. However, I did not oppose the Premier's desire lest I should appear disagreeable. Our six oxen ran with the waggon as if some fiend were after them. I was afraid that before noon * I am informed that after Pikenin had faithfully served the Rhodesian Administrator for a twelvemonth he fled, on the outbreak of the Matabele War, from Salisbury to Umtali, where Mr. Rhodes, on his next trip to Mashonaland (after the war) fortuitously saw him washing clothes at a stream. "Ah, Pikenin, is that you ? " said the Premier, pleasantly surprised at the un- expected meeting, and then and there offered the Inhambane boy to take him to Capetown, In a moment Pikenin was ready to go, and at present both he and Matokwa arc hapjjy and faithful servants at the Prime Minister's r('8iderc'e, " Groote Schuur.'' — Travsldfor. 386 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. some limb of the vehicle would break, for whenever our road was downhill all we could do was to cling to our seats and hold our breath. At a quarter-past six we stopped at the Baobab Kiver, and there had breakfast. At seven we left the stream, and, with a new team of oxen, fresh and vigorous, our waggon ran so fast with us that the wind hummed in our ears. The animals could not, liowever, keep up this speed for long, so we were soon again travelling like a sane party. At half-past eleven we outspanned at Similali, a spot at which we spent nearly an entire day the year before, as there was plenty of grass and water, and a beautiful mimosa-tree. Having taken our midday meal, we pro- ceeded again at half-past one, our road taking us into the MajDani Forest, where a large variety of birds was to be met with. Thunder-clouds meanwhile began to gather. At three we outspanned to allow the aniiLals a little relaxation, and soon we set off again, Eain now came down in torrents, and peal after peal of thunder seemed to rend the air ; but Arri, the driver, who paid but little heed to the state of the weather, advised us to travel as fast as we could ; there was no need to fear the oxen failing, for at every outspan-place — that is, after every two hours' or two and a half hours' drive — there was a fresh team waiting for us. Eain fell throughout the night. At one o'clock next morning we arrived before a river through which old Arri was afraid to drive. Mr. Khodes, however, was determined to go through it. We bade him be more reasonable and not risk his life in a river of which his knowledge was next to AT MACLOUTSI CAMP. 337 nothing. In order to ascertain its cleptb,Ve made the leader of the oxen walk into the stream. The water reached a little above the middle of his bod3\ We con- sidered it shallow enough to cross, and through we drove. Of sleeping was not to be thought. How Arri managed to pass all the trees growing by the roadside A\ithout running the waggon against any is to me a puzzle. At a quarter-past six we arrived at the Macloutsi Camp, where all were still ajDparently asleep. We wanted to prepare coffee, but the wood and the ground were so wet that we could hardly light a tire. We had outspanned in front of the shop of an English gentleman, a Mr. Howman, and we had not been there long when the shop-proprietor came to invite Mr. Khodes, Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange to take coffee in his house. Me, however, though I was standing next to the other gentlemen, he did not invite. I felt more than insulted at this snobbish treatment. I believe I was as well-dressed as any of my fellow-travellers, and appeared as respectable. "Howman," I thought, "hills and mountains do not part and meet, but men do ; the day may come when we shall meet again ! " This matter reminded me of a somewhat similar incident which took place when I was a young man, and was making my first trip to the Free State in company with a brother of mine. There was of course no railway at that time by which to travel. We journeyed by cart. As we were passing through the Murraysburg district we one night came to the farm of a Mr. Theron, who — very inconsistent with Boer hospitality — for some inexplicable reason deliberately z 338 WITH RHODES IN MASEONALAND. refused to sell us either meat or bread or even forage for our tired and hungry horses. But we so humbly begged him to give us something, and offered him such high prices for what we asked, that he ultimately gave us some old dry bread, such as I would not give my dog, and a tough thin piece of meat, charging us five shillings for them ; and for our horses he let us have two oat-sheaves for three shillings. I was then twenty years of age. Twenty-two years afterwards I met an aged farmer at the Middleburg Bond Congress, who came to me to make my acquaintance. We began talking to each other, and somehow the unpleasant night I had spent at Mr. Theron's came back to my mind, and, by questioning the gentleman as to who he was and where he lived, I discovered that he was the very Mr. Theron who had so shabbily treated us. I then reminded him of the incident and very politely, though not less frankly, told him — what I would fain have told him twenty-two years ago, but dared not — what I thought of men of his kind. We had breakfast in a small restaurant, and at eight o'clock we were ready to leave Macloutsi. At this point a number of officers, who had just got out of bed and were still rubbing their eyes, came to the waggon and made a score of excuses to the Managing Director of the Chartered Company for not having known of his coming. Dressed in their military attire, they wished to honour the Premier by escorting him some distance out of Macloutsi, but the latter, who hated anything of that kind, bade them leave him. Within the last twenty-four hours we had travelled seventy miles. ( 339 ) CHAPTER XXX. We leave Macloutsi — ]\Ieet Khama — At Palapye — The chief's grievances — I do not enjoy the I'ole of John Gilpin, and reproach my companions — A little excusable exaggeration in my complaints — Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange left behind — Matabele boys — Arrival at Notwani. On the 17th of November, at a quarter-past eight, we left Macloutsi. We travelled day and night, being supplied with a fresh team of oxen at regular intervals. We went like the wind. The oxen were all in excellent condition, but this was not surprising, seeing that they were well fed and that they had to draw only three or four times in a fortnight. To my admiration the leaders of the teams did not once let go the rope ; they were generally young Kafirs who ran as lightly over the road as young bucks. Want of rest, however, soon began to tell upon us, and we became so drowsy that we could hardly keep our eyes open. Just before we entered Palapye we met Khama and his son on some arable land. The chief had been engaged tilling his land with four ploughs. Imme- diately upon seeing us he came to greet us, courteously lifting his hat and making a low bow. We stopped the coach for a few minutes, exchanged a few words with the Bamangwato ruler, and drove on again, the z 2 340 WITH RHODES IN MASHONALAND. chief promising to come and see us in his town. We outspanued near the telegraph-office at Pahipye and carried on some communication by wire with our people at Capetown. At five o'clock our little waggon was ready to leave Palapye ; it had a new driver, xlrri remaining behind in Khama's capital, where his family was living. Captain Tyson and Mr. Lange were to follow the waggon with a large tester- cart, and Mr. Rhodes requested them, before we left, not to tarry long in the town. Khama, who had followed our waggon to his town shortly after we met him at his ploughs, and who was desirous to discuss some matters with the Chartered Company's Managing Director, but could not talk English, now came to ask Mr. Rliodes to go with him to his interpreter. To this request the Premier readily acceded. Mr. Rhodes, Khama, Mr. Moffat, junior, and myself then rode on horseback to the interpreter's, allowing our waggon meanwhile to proceed. Arrived at the interpreter's, the Premier and the chief entered his hou.«e, whilst Mr. Moffat and I remained out- side. Khama complained of the conduct of Mis- sionary Hepburn, who had faithfully worked among his people for twenty years but had latterly begun to play the master in the country. Khama, as ruler over his people, claimed that he knew his work well, and could not bear — perhaps reasonably so — to see another command his subjects. The natural result of Mr. Hepburn's behaviour was the growth of discord between the chief and the missionary, and the quarrel ended in Khama leaving Mr. Hepburn the alternative of sub- A Mute of a horse. ciil niittiiig to him or of quitting the couutry. The mis- sionary thereupon left the land, and, as I am informed, is now in London complaining to the authorities there about the conduct of the Bamaugwato chief. At seven o'clock we said good-bye to Khama. It was pretty dark then. Mr. Ehodes and IMr. Moffat had good horses ; mine was a good-for-nothing brute that seemed to take delight in bringing its rider in contact with Mother Earth as often as possible. It was not very pleasant to ride on such a horse at such a speed as that at which we were going. Upon my word, we rode like three John Gilpin:^. 3[r. Moffat was anxi(»us to overtake the wao:2ron and return to PaUipye, whilst Mr. Khodes was not at ease so long as the waggon remained out of his sight. I, though desirous of riding at a less speed, had to do as my companions did, for I would under no circumstances lag behind, being a perfect stranger to the road. The first time my horse stumbled, both it and I fell flat upon tlie ground, but we were soon up again. The second time it fell I flew over its head, my poor face sweeping the sand. I mounted again and rode a? hard as I could to overtake the others, but my poor creature icould lag behind, ^ly companions did not trouble themselves at all about me, their mind being fixed ou only one thing — the waggon. My hor^e and I now had our third tumble and this was the worst fall of all — the animal rolled right over me. I thought my spine was broken, I arose, wi[)ed the sand from my eyes, and, as loud as my throat could ye'l, I shouted to my friends to stop. They fortunately heard me and turne