TRAVELS IN ITALY, BETWEEN THE YEARS 179-2 and 1798; CONTAINING Al view of the late revolutions IN THAT COUNTRY. Likewife pointing out The matchlefs Works of Art which ftill embellifh Pifa, Flo- rence, Siena, Rome, Naples, Bologna, Venice, &c» WITH INSTRUCTIONS For the life of Invalids and Families, Who may not chufe to incur the Expence attendant upon Travelling with a Courier. also A SUPPLEMENT, Comprifing Iiifiruftions for TRAVELLING IN FRANCE, With Defcriptions of all the principal Roads and Cities IN THAT REPUBLIC. BY MARIANA STARKE, Author of the Widow of Malabar, the Tournament, &c. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. II. HcnDcn: Printed for R. PHILLIPS, ^t. pack's church yard, By r. Cill't, Salisbury Squire. 1S02. CONTENTS. ^^ n vo,„. &■«£ If 02 v ^ LETTER XVII. PIAZZAdi S. Pietro— Vaticano— Bafilicadi S. Pictro — Mofatc Manufactory Churches— Palaces Villas— Chiefa di S. Agnefe fuore di Porta Pia Villas— Sculpture, &c. to be feen at the houfes of Artifts — Hofpitals — Antiquities and Churches with- out the City Gates. LETTER XVIII. Excurfion to Tivoli — S. Cofimato — Horace's Villa — the Sabine farm — and the Villa Adriana. Excurfion to Paleftrina. Excurfion to Grotto Ferrata and Fraf- cati — character of the Romans — Hotels at Rome. LETTER XIX. Account of the country between Rome and Naples. LETTER XX. Naples— Quay— Villa Reale— Palazzo Reale— Piazza Caflel-Nuovo — Churches — Caftello del l'Uovo — Churches— Caftello di S. Elmo— Churches— Palazzo di Capo di Monte— Univerfity — Churches and Pa- laces — Cathedral Vicaria— Ofpedale di Sa. Maria Annunziata— Chiefa di Sa. Maria del Carmine- Porcelain Manufa&ure— Palazzo Berrio— Theatres —Climate— Water— Population— Inns — Character of the Neapolitans. Voi. II. A LETTER 8, — «">* };~ J r~ IV CONTENTS. LETTER XXI. Environs of Naples — defcription of Pompeii — Hercu- Ianeum— Mufeum of Portici— Statues of M. N. Bal- bus, jun. and his father — Royal Palace — Gardens — Excurfion to Vefuvius — defciiption of the Earth- quake which overthrew Refina and Torre-del-Greco — prefent ftate of thofe Towns — mower of ftones at Pienza — Excurfion to Poeftum — defcription of the ruins there. LETTER XXII. Excurfion to Baia — Nifida — Solfaterra — Temple of Jupiter Ser-Apis— -Mifenum — Grotto — Tragonare — Fim-ponds of Lucullus — Theatre of Mifenum — Stygian Lake — Eiyfian-fields — Sepulchral monu- ments — Pifcina merabile — Cento Camerele — Bauli — Villa of Agrippina— Temples of Venus, Mercury, and Diana Ba'i'ana — Nero's baths — Lucrine Lake — Monte-Nuovo— Lake Avernus. Excurfion toCuma, &c. — Amphitheatre— fepulchral monuments of Pu- teoli- Villa di Cicerone — Arco- Police — Streets and Caftle of Cuma— fpot where Dajdalus alighted after his flight from Crete. Excurfion to the Lake d'Ag- nano — Grotto del Cane — Pifciarelli — Aftroni — Vir- gil's tomb. Excurfion to Caferta — the Aqueducts — Palace — Manufactures at S. Leuce — Englifh Gar- den — Ancient Capua. Excurfion to the Ifland of Proceda — defcription of that Iiland and its Inhabi- tants. Excurfion to Ifchia. Excurfion to Capri — defcription of that Iiland. Excurfion to Sorrento — defcription of that Town — Plain of Sorrento— S. Ag- nello— Mcta— Maffa. LETTER CONTENTS. LETTER XXIII. Journey from Rome through Perugia to Florence — — Auguftus's Bridge Cafcade of Terni — Lake of Pe- rugia — ground upon which the battle of Thrafyme- jius was fought — Hannibal's route into Italy. LETTER XXIV. Journey from Florence to Drefden — defcription of Bo- logna — works of art mod worth notice — Venice — Architecture — Arfenal — Paintings — Sculpture — Li- brary — beft Inn — Water — Cuftom-houfe at Ponteba — German Villages — Inns— Provifions — Peafantry and Towns of Carinthia — Vienna — Inns — Public Edifices— Royal Gallery of Piaures at the Belve- dere — Treafury — Cabinets of Medals and Natural Hiftory— Cameo of Alexander— Gallery of Pictures in the Lichtenftein Palace — Porcelain Manufacture — Prater L'au-Garden — Schoenbrun — National Dim—Theatres — Fireworks — Population — Diftance from Florence to Vienna — Cities of Moravia — drefs of the Peafants— Prague — Bridge — Population — Ob- jects beft worth notice — Inns — drefs of the Saxon Peafants — they fometimes understand Englifh. LETTER XXV. Drefden— Population — Architecture — -Bridge — Reli- gion—Character of the People — Inns — Picture-Gal- Icry— Jewel-Office— Cabinet of Antiques— Elcdtor's Library — Porcelain exhibited in the Palace of Count Briihl — Cabinet of Natural Hiftory — Antique Ar- moury— Collea ion of Drefden China— Theatres— J^iftance from Vienna to Drefden— Diftance from a 2 Drefden VI CONTENTS, i Drefden to Hamburg Voyage down the Elbe to Hamburg — Population of Hamburg — defcription of the City — Inns — Extraordinary inflance of the faga- city of a Stork — Voyage from Hamburg to Cuxha- ven — Expencesof the Packet from Cuxhaven to Yar- mouth — Ladies recommended to take the Cabin to themfelves — Harwich- Packets the befl fea-boats — Hotel at Cuxhaven — Climates of the Continent — Nice Pifa— Rome— Naples— Particular defcrip- tion of the climate of Pifa— that of Rome— and Flo- rence — and Sorrento. Things neceflary for an inva- lid to be provided vvih on leaving England — Price of Pofl-Horfes in Tufcany — Current Coins of Tufcany — Its Weights and Meafures — Prices at Inns, &c. &c. — Leghorn — Price of Carriages — Boats — Box at the Theatre — entrance — Things worth purchafing — - Bed Wine-Merchant, Grocer, &c. — Surgeon — Pro- vifions — Wine and Oil Meafure — Wood — Price for going in the public Timoneli to Pifa — Pailage-Boats to Pifa— Environs of Leghorn unwholefome — Ar- rival and departure of Letter-Couriers — Pifa — Befl Lodging-Houfcs — Hire of Linen — of a Coach per IVlonth — of a Saddle-Horfe — of a Coach-Houfe — jLxpence of keeping Horfes at Livery — Wages of a Coachman — Sedan Chairs — Box at the Theatre — Entrance— Price of Dinner from a Traiteur — of Breakfafl at a Coffee-Houfe — of Dinner at the Houfe of a Traiteur — Servants' Wages — Befl mode of ob- taining Fire- Wood — different kinds of Fire- Wood Hufks of Olives recommended for Fuel — Mats — Provifions— Oil and Wine-— Price of Horfes to Leg- horn and back again in one day— Mufic, Drawing, and CONTENTS. Vll and Language Matters— Phyfician— - Surgeons— - Demi;l- Banking- Hon fe---Stay-Maker--- Price of Shoes— -Prices ufually charged by Taylors and Man- tua - Makers — Arrival and departure of Letter- Couriers— Franking of Letters— Price for going in a Voituriu\s public Carriage from Pifa to Florence —Travellers mould not have their baggage plumbed at Pifa — Florence — Lodging-Houfes— Price per head for brcakfaft at a Coffee-Houfe— for dinner at it Traiteurs— Price of Carriages by the Month, &c.-~ belt mode of hiring them— bell Voiturins — Sedan Chairs— Provifion— Wine— Medicines --- Molini's Shop— Reftori's Shop— Meggit, Wine-Merchant— Florence Silks — Shoes — Shoe-Makers-— Englifli Taylor— Florentine— Taylors Milliner Straw- Hats Phyfician Surgeon -Denti (Is Portable Baths — Notary-Public— Bankers- — Language-Mailer —-Drawing and Mufic-M afters— -Hire of a Piano- Forte— Boxes at the Theatres— Entrance-— Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers— Franking of Letters — Country-Houfes near Florence— -Common Price paid for warning without ironing in Tufcany — Price of Poft-Horfes in the Roman State— Rome —Money Weights and Meafures Lodging- Houfes — Traiteurs— Price of Brcakfaft at a Coffee- Houfe Price of Dinner at the Houfe of a Traitcur— Hire of a Carriage by the Day, Arc- Wages or' a l'alt-de-Placc — ot other Servants- Wood — Provifions — Wine — wax and tallow candles — Oil -Shops of Sarmiento and Baftiani — Medicines ■ — commodities belt worth purchafing - Price of ihoes and boots— Charge made by Taylors and Mantua- makers— Shops - Bcft fhoe- makers -Bcft Mantua- maker Vlll CONTENTS. maker — Seller of neck-laces, &c. — Writing-paper — Cameo- Workers — Mofaic- Worker— Print-Sellers — Sulphurs — Bankers — Surgeon and Apothecary— Dentifts — Theatres — Arrival and departure of Let- ter-Couriers iince the Revolution--- Belt way of con- veying baggage from Rome to Naples—Beit. Voitu- rin— Price of wafhint;-- -Price of Poit-Horfes in the Neapolitan- ftate— -PaiTports, &c— -Money of Na- ples— Meafures and weights— Lodging-houfes at Naples— -Expenfes at Hotels— lute of a Carriage by the month, &c — hire of a boat by the day-— wages of a Vaht-de- Place, of other Servants— Lodgings in Fouria, &c. — Price of a carriage per month when hired by a Neapolitan— Price of dinner from a Trtf//?wr— Provifions— Wines— Tea, fugar, coffee, cheefe, oil— fire-wood— wax and tallow candles — oil — writing paper— -Circulating Library— Phyfi- cians Bleeders—- Medicines— Silks— -Ribbands-r-- Silk Stockings— Manufactures of Tortoife Shell and Mufical Strings— Theatres, their prices, Boxes, &c. -—Arrival and departure of Letter Couriers— -Wafli- ing, &c. Sorrento. Lodging-Houfes — Provisions — Ice— Boats to Naples— Phyfician — Beft pafTage to or from Na- ples. Price of Poll Horfes in Piedmont and Savoy. Eftabliflied prices for the paffage of Mount Cenis. Price of Poft Horfes in Germany — Beft Money to take from Tufcany into Germany — Relative value of various Coin. Venice. Price of Apartments— of Dinner — of a Gondola — Beft articles to purchafe at Venice — De- parture of Letter Couriers. Money CONTENTS. IX GERMANY. Money of the Imperial Territories — Weights and Meafures at Vienna — White Bull Inn — Expences per day — Hackney Coaches, and Sedan Chairs — Phyfi- cians — Shops— Cheap Articles — Prices of the Opera -—Mode of Travelling from Vienna— Arrival and Departure of Letter Couriers—Diligences — Prague — Dresden— Money of Saxony Weights and Meafures— -Price of Apartments at Hotels— Dinners, Carriages, Wine, &c. Commodities Letter Couriers — Hamburg— -Money-— Weights— Din- ners — Wines — Commodities. Page Routes, &c. 363 Route, en Voiturier, from Pifa to Mafia, and Carrara, with an Englifh Pofl Chaife and four Horfts 363 'From Pifa to Modena, by the new road — 365 From Pifa through Piftoja to Florence 367 Route, going pod, from Florence through Perugia to Rome 370 Route, going en Voiturier, from Rome to Florence, through Perugia 372 Expences of the fame ■ 374 Route, going poft, from Florence, through Siena, to Rome 377 The fame, en Voiturier 379 The common form in which agreements are drawn up with Voiturins 385 Route, going port, from Rome to Naples 388 The fame, en Voiturier 392 Route, going poll;, from Naples to Rome 393 Route, X CONTENTS* Route, going port, from Switzerland to Turin 39 £ Route, going poft, from Florence, through Bologna Venice, Prague and Drefden, to Hamburgh 397 Route, going port, from Florence, through Man- dova, to Cuxhaven 4°2 NOTES. Referring to Villa Riccardi de' Medici 406 Story mewing the grateful and delicate turn of mind poflefled by the Tufcan Peafantry 4°7 Route, going poft, from Turin, over the Maritime Alps to Nice • ■ 4^9 ERRATA OF VOL. 1.1. Page 3 line 10, for Perugins read Perugino. 6 — z, for Morat'.i red Manittu 14 — 19, for adorned read adored. 42 in line 11 of Note, for rofa read rofv. 44 — 19, for Puz.'/,ubU read Pozzuoti. 49 — '9> for Sepolero read Sefokro. 70 — 21, for Pouxolo read Pczzuo/i. 93. — 14, for equedufl read aqiiedutl. 93 — ii, for Pncde read Croceie. 3 25 in line 5 of Note, for Siiphonear read S.ifho near, in line 7, for Hy/o/'s read Hy/us. I28 in line 7 of Note, for Baccbaritt read Baccbantt. 130 — 17, for mile read W*. 146 — 13, for frr.Jcuniutn lead Profcenium. 149 "— l3, for ccxytus read cocytui. 167 — 11, for a;? read /s. 12, for >oa from Palis to Oftende, through Bruxelles ib. from Paris to Strafbourg, through Cha- lons-fur- Maine, S. Diz'er, Bar-le-Duc, Toul, Nancy, Luneville, Phalzbourg, and Savcrne - - - - 27 Route Xii CONTENTS. Page Route from Paris to Strafbourg, through Troyes, Langres, Vezoul, Befort, and Bafle - 31 from Paris to Geneva, through Dijon - 34 from Paris to Pont-Beauvoifin and Cham- bery 35 from Paris to Grenobie - - - 36 from Paris to Perpignan, through Touloufe 37 from Paris to La Rochelle, through Char- tres, Tours, and Poitiers - - -i 38 LETTERS FROM ITALY, BETWEEN THE YEARS 1 7Q2 AND 1/98. »»*•««• LETTER XVII. Rome j January 1/98. FIFTH DAY. I. JpiAZZA di S. Pietro. The colonades of this magnificent approach to St. Peter's were defigned by Bernini, at the command of Alexander VII. One of the Fountains was erected by Innocent VIII ; the other by Clement X ; and the Obelifk by Sixtus V. This Obelifk, the only one which has been preferred entire, is made of red granite, and was tranfportcd from Heliopolis to Rome, by order of Caligula ; and afterwards placed, by Nero, in his Vol. II. B Circus, 2 LETTERS FROM ITALY/ Circus, now the Piazza di S. Pictro — it meafurcs 124 feet from the ground to the top of the crofs. II. Vattcano. Many parts of this im- menfe. building are extremely damp and cold ; the Mufeum is efpecially fo ; and Perfons who go thither previous to feeing other parts of the Palace, fhould lend a Servant to get the door opened before they quit their carriage ; otherwife they rifk {landing a confiderable time in an eddy of cold damp air. The Vatican is faid to have been begun by Conftantine the Great, and has received augmentations from almoit every fucceeding Sovereign, infomuch that its prcfent circumference is computed at near 70,000 feet. The moft convenient way of feeing it is as follows : — lit.. Qappclla SiJVina. Knock at the firft door on the left-hand as you mount the flairs of the Va- tican, and you will find the Ciiflodi of the Chapels. The CappeJla Si/ibia contains fome of BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 7Q9. 3 of the fmeft frefcos in the world, namely, The laft Judgement, by Buonarroti, imme- diately behind the altar ; and, on the ceil- ing, God dividing the light from the dark- nefs, together with the Prophets and Sibyls, ftupendous works by the fame great Maf- tcr ! ! ! ! ! On the walls are paintings by old Artifts, the moft celebrated of which is our Saviour delivering the keys to St. Peter, by Pietro Perugins. This Chapel is warm, but rather' dark. Here many functions of the Holy Week ufed to be performed. — 2d. Hall leading to the Cappella-FaoUna. Frefcos, by Vafari, &c. — 3d. Cappella-Paolina. Middle picture on the right-hand fide as you enter, the crucifixion of St. Peter, by Buonar- roti ! Other frefcos on the fides, by F. Zuc- cari. Middle picture on the left-hand, the converfion of St. Paul, by Buonarroti ! Other Irefcos on the fides, by Lorenzino di Bologna. Ceiling by Vafari. This Chapel is dark, and rather cold. Give two paid s. — B 2 Here, 4 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Here, during the Holy Week, the body of our Saviour ufed to be reprefented lying in the fepulchre. — 4 th. Hall where the feet of the Poor were wafhed on Holy Thurfday, called, Sala Ducale. Beautiful arabefques on the ceiling, by Lorenzino di Bologna, and Raphaelin di lleggio. — 5th. In the jirjl Loggia, or open Gallery, which is adorned with frefcos defigned by RafFaellc, and exe- cuted by his Scholars, is a room on the left-hand, near the fountain, where there is a ceiling painted by Ilaffaelle, reprefenting the planets, figns of the zodiac, &c. ! ! ! — Oth. Second Loggia, or Gallery, painted af- ter the dcfigns of RafFaclle by his Scholars. — 7th. Stanze di Raffaelle, adjoining to the Gallery. Firji room Conftantine's vic- tory over Maxcntius, defigned by RafFaellc, and executed, after his death, by Giulio Romano ! ! ! A figure of Juftice, and an- other of Benignity, both in oil, by RafFaellc himfelf ! ! ! Conflantine's vifion, by Giulio Romano ! BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/Q8. 5 Romano ! ! ! The fame Prince receiving baptifm, by Francefco Penni. The dona- tion of Rome to Pope Silvefter, by RafFaelle del Colle. On the ceiling is the infide of a Pagan Temple converted into a Chriftian Church — the perfpective is particularly fine, the Author, T. Laureti Palermitain. — Second room — Heliodorus driven from thcTempIe — Leo I. flopping the Army of Attila, by the aid of St. Peter and St. Paul — The miracle of Bolfena, and St. Peter delivered out of prifon, all by RafFaelle ! ! ! ! — Third- room — The School of Athens, by RafFaelle ! ! ! ! — Theology, by the fame ! ! — ParnafTus, by the fame ! ! — Jurifprudence, by the fame ! ! — Fourth room — The fire in the Borgo, extin- guished by Leo IV.— RafFaelle ! ! !— The justification of Leo III. before Charlemagne, and the victory of Leo IV. over die Saracens at Oftia, by Raffaelle's Scholars. — The co- ronation of Charlemagne, by ditto. The lower part of thefe rooms arc painted in B 3 chiaro- 6 LETTERS FROM ITALY, chiaro-ofcuro, by Polidore Caravaggio, anc$ retouched by Carlo Moratti. Tolerably inarm. — Give three pauls. — 8th. Librerai Vati- cano, built by Sixtus V. and rich in manu - fcripts, medals, cameos, intaglios, Grecian vafes, antiques relative to the primitive Chriftians, &c. &c. Several of the manu- fcripts are embellifhed with miniature paint- ings by the Florentine School, and the celebrated Giulio Claudio. — The Dante, now removed, I believe, to the Paris Li- brary, is adorned with exquifite paintings, begun by the Florentine School, and hnifhed by Giulio Claudio, whofe continuation may eafily be known by it's fuperiority to the reft of the work. In the Vatican Library alfo are, or were, two other works of Giu- lio Claudio's-, equally beautiful ; they cele- brate the deeds of the famous Duke of Ur- bino. The cameo of Aurmftus, which does, or did, belong to this collection, is reckoned the hneil in the world. Here alfo are a few pictures BETWEEN i;g2 AND 1 7Q3. / pictures of the Grecian School, an original portrait of Charlemagne, in ftucco, and a ceiling, faid to be the chcf-d' ' ocuvre of Mcngs, which adorns a room hung round with manufcripts written upon the Papyrus. Give Jive pauls. — gth. Mnfeo-Fio- Clementina. An ancient Galley, in white marble — a lion in bigio — a Statue of Diana mooting ! — a faun in rojfo antico — two coloffal Junos, one of which is particularly fine — a colofTal Nerva — a coloffal bull: of Juno — a magni- ficent porphyry bafon : — a porphyry farco- phagus, rcprefenting boys with grapes — a recumbent figure of the Nile in high — an an- cient car — Egyptian Divinities, urns, &c. two Children boxing. Giveiivo or three pauls. The fitting up of thefe apartments is truly princely ; and, now, that the fincfl pieces of fculpture are gone, the beauty of the co- lumns, mofaic pavements, &c. is, perhaps, the moft ftr iking feature of the Mu/eo-Cle- mentino f The Qujlodi of the Mufeum mews B 4 the 8 LETTERS FROM ITALY, the Piclure Gallery, which is, however, but little worth feeing. SIXTH DAY. I. Baftlka dl S. Pleiro. In order to fee the whole of the Church, including the Sacrifly, Dome, &c. — it is neceifary to fet out at eight or nine in the morning, and fpend three or four hours in viewing this mailer-piece of modern genius. The ground on which St. Peter's ilands formerly made part of the Circus of Nero, where St. Peter was buried ; and Conflantine the Great erecled, over his remains, a vail church, which, having flood eleven centuries, and at length falling to decay, Nicholas V. began to rebuild it, about the year 1-150, after the plans of Rofcllini and Alberti ; his fuc- ceffors, however, difcontinucd the work, till the reign of Paul II. under whom it went on. Julius II. who fuccceded Paul, chofe the famous Bramante as his Archite6t, and this BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 7QS. Q this Artift formed the defign of erecting a cupola in the centre of the edifice. After the death of Julius and Bramante, Leo X. entrufted the work to RafTaelle and other Artifts, on whofe demife Paul III. chofe Sangallo as his Architect, and, upon the death of this Artift, the laft- mentioned Pope committed the work to Buonarroti, who made a new defign for the cupola ; he like wife intended to have erected a portico refembling that of the Pantheon, but death fruftrated his purpofe ; fucceeding Artifts, however, were directed to go on with his cupola, which was completed in the reign of Sixtus V. Charles Maderne fmifhed the other part of the Church in the reign of Paul V. and the prefent Pope built the Sacriftv. Buonarroti intended that St. Peter's mould have been in the form of a Greek crofs, but Charles Maderne followed the plan of Bramante, and made a Latin one. In the year 1G94, this church was fuppoied to lO LETTERS FROM ITALY, to have coft forty-fevcn millions of Roman crowns, and much more has iincc been ex- pended for the Mofaics, Sacrifty, &c— - Dimenfions of St. Peters — Length of the middle aile from the entrance to the chair of St. Peter, 50g Paris feet — breadth 85 — height 140 — breadth of each fide-aile, 20| feet — length of the crofs-aile, 408 — height of the baldacchino, 84 feet. Interior dia- meter of the cupola, 130 feet — exterior ditto, 145 feet — height from the pavement to the top of the lanthern, 385 feet. St. Peter s is always warm and always open — Give four pauls.* II. See the Mofaic Manufactory, which is very near S. Peter's. * For a particular defcription of the fculpturc, mofaics, &c. in St. Peter's, refer to VaJI's Itinerary. — The mofaic, by Giotto, called La Navicetta, and the bajjb-rillevo, by Algardi, reprefenting Leo I. going to meet Attila, with St. Peter and St. Paul appearing in the air, are much admired ; fo is the Maufoleum of Paul III. by Guglielmo della Porta. III. Ch'iefa BETWEEN 17Q2 AND l/QS. 11 III. Chiefa e Convent o de P. P. Cappucclm hi Piazza Barberini. Here is . -jjbe Arch- Angel Michael, by Guido, efteemed one of the fineft pictures in the world ! ! ! ! Here likewife is Saul receiving his fight, by Pietro di Cortona ! ! This church may be feen at all hours by an application at the convent. The Piazza Barberini was anciently the Circus of Flora. SEVENTH DAY. I. Chiefa di S. Ig?iazio, built by Cardinal Lodovico Lodovifio, chiefly after the defign of Domenichino. This noble ftruclure is embeliifhed with fine antique marble co- lumns, and contains a famous alto-rilieruo, by Le Gros, reprefenting S. Luigi Gonzaga, whofe body is depofited here in a tomb in- crufted with lapis lazuli. Here likewife is the tomb of Gregory XV. by Le Gros. The ceiling of the nave and /rib una are fine- ly painted by Father Pozzi, and the former reprefents 12 LETTERS FROM ITALY, represents the apotheofis of St. Ignatius, from whofe head ifiue rays which illumine the four quarters of the world. This church is tolerably warm. II. Chief a di S. Maria Sopra Minerva. This Church is built on the ruins of a Temple of Minerva, originally creeled by Pompey the Great, it contains a famous llatuc of our Saviour, by Buonarroti. III. Chiefa di S. S. Apoftoli. This fine Church w T as originally erected by Conftan- tine, and afterwards rebuilt by Cav. F. Fontana. The portico of the old edifice is ftill entire, and contains an antique haffo- rilievo of an eagle. The ceiling of the nave of the modern edifice was painted by Bacic- cio, and represents the triumph of St. Fran- cefco. The fall of the Angels nearlv over the high-altar is beautiful. — Thehigh altar-piece is by Domcnichino Muratori. This church contains the monument of Clement XIV. a celebrated work by Canova, a living Artift, BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 1/Q8. 13 Artift, who has placed the ftatue of the Pope between two female figures, namely, Temperance and Meeknefs. Here are two remarkably fine columns of verde antique, together with many other beautiful marble pillars. This Church is warm. IV. Chiefa di S. Maria di Loretto. Here is a celebrated ftatue of St. Sufanna, by Fiamingo 1 1 V. Chiefa di S. Pietro in Vincoli. A fine Church adorned with ancient Doric co- lumns. Here is a picture of S. Agoftino, by Guercino, and another of S. Margherita, by the fame. The monument of Julius II. dellgncd by Buonarroti, who died before it was nniihed ; and an ancient confular chair. VI. Chiefa di Geju. This magnificent Church was erected by Cardinal AleiTandro Farnefe, after the plan of Vignola, and finifhed by Giacomo dclla Porta. The frefcos on the ceiling of the nave, tribuna, and cupola, are by Baciccio, who has repre- sented 5(4 Letters from italt, fented St. Francefco Saverio afcending to Heaven ! The angles of the cupola are par- ticularly beautiful ! ! ! The Chapel of S. Ignazio, built after the defign of Father Pozzi, is rich beyond defcription, yet not gaudy. The pillars which adorn the altar are lapis lazuli fluted with gilt bronze, and the globe held by God the Father is the largeft piece of lapis lazuli ever feen. Over the altar, with a veil before it, in a nichef in- crufted with lapis lazuli, is a ftatue nine feet high, cafed with filver, and reprefenting S. Ignazio accompanied by three Angels, all likewife cafed with filver, and done after the defign of Le Gros. The habit of St, Ignatius is adorned with precious ftones. In. this Chanel alfo is a celebrated Group, of Religion vanqinfhing Herefy, by Lc Gros ; and an oppofitc Group of Faith adorned by barbarous nations. Here, alfo, are feven bronze hajjl-rilievi reprefenting the hiftorv of the Saint ! This church is warm. Give half BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 15 half a paid to the perfon who undraws the veil before theflatue of St. Ignatius. VII. Chiefa di S. Carlo a Catenari. This church contains a picture of the death of St. Anne, which is deemed the chef d'eeuvre of Andrea Sacchi ! Over the high- altar is a celebrated picture of S. Carlo Borromeo's proceffion during the plague at Milan, by Pietro di Cortona ! The Cardinal Virtues, by Domcnichino, in the angles of the cu- pola, are itrikingly fine ! ! ! ! This church is tolerably warm. VHI. Chiefa di S. Andrea delta Voile, This noble edifice abounds with fine paint- ings. The cupalo, by Lanfranc, is deemed the bell: executed of any one in Rome ! ! ! The four Evangelifts in the angles are by Domcnichino, and the St. John is called his chef d'ecuvre !!!! The ceiling of the tribuna was done by the fame great Matter, The three large pictures in the tribuna are bv 16 LETTERS FROM ITALY, by Calabrefe. The Strozzi- chapel was de-> figned by Buonarroti. This church is warm. IX. Chief a di S. Maria in Va Media, com- monly called Chiefa Nuova. This Church, one of the fmeft in Rome, was erected by S. Filippo Neri, after the defigns of Martin Longhi, and Pietro de Cortona, the latter of whom painted the ceiling of the nave, the cupola, and the ceiling of the tribuna. Here, in a dark chapel, is a picture of holy Women weeping over the dead body of our Saviour, efteemed the bell w r ork of M. A. Carravaggio ! ! Here, like wife, in a Chapel on the right as you approach the high-altar, is a picture of the Madonna, our Saviour, S. Carlo Borromeo, and S. Ignazio, deemed the chef d ocuvre of Carlo Marratti ! The magnificent Chapel of S. Filippo Neri is on the left of the high al- tar. The prefentation of the bleffcd Vir- gin, by Barroeio, is much admired. The tribuna BETWEEN 17y2 AND 1/Q8. If hibuna is adorned with five paintings by Rubens, and a rich ciborio. In the Sacriity is a ftatue of S. Filippo Neri, by Algardi ; and a ceiling by Pietro di Cortona. Leav- ing the Church, and going into the apart- ments above flairs, you find a portrait of S. Filippo Neri, by Gnido — a ceiling re- prefenting the fame Saint, by Pietro di Cortona, and feveral other pictures. Give a paul and a half. This church is warm, but unlefs it be a very light day, the pictures are fear rely d'fcernible. X. Chief a di S. Maria della Pace. This Church contains, on the right hand as you enter, RafFaelle's famous Sibyls, fuppofed to be predicting the birth of our Saviour ; but, molt unfortunately, this val Table frefco is almoft obliterated by time. Here, like- wife, is a picture of the Viiitation, by Carlo Maratti; and another by B. Perjzzi, of the Madonna going to the Temple : the lair, Vol. II. C however 18 LETTERS FROM ITALY, however, is much injured. This church is damp. XI. Chief a di S. Agnefe in Piazza Na- vona. The cupola is finely painted by Ciro Ferri, Corbellini, and Baciccio ; but this Church is chiefly famous for having been erected over the Lupanaria of the Circus Agonale, whither St. Agnes was dragged in Order to be defiled. You defcend by a ftair- cafe into the Lupanaria, where are confi- dcrable remains of the Circus, together with a hafjo-rilievo of St. Agnes, miraculously co- vered with her own hair, faid to be one of the beft works of Algardi. Give one paul. The LdUpanaria is damp and cold. XII. Chiefa di S. Agojlino. Here is a celebrated ^/v/co-painting of the Prophet [faiah,byRaffaelle!!!! XIII. Chief a di S. Maria in Trajleverc. This noble ffcru&ure, which {lands, it is (iippofcd, on the fite of the Taberna Meri- toria, BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1/98. 1Q torla, (a hofpital for Invalid Soldiers in the days of the ancient Romans), is adorned with 22 magnificent antique granite co- lumns of the Ionic order, and a fine an- cient pavement of porphyry, verde antique, &c. In the centre of the roof of the great aile is an afTumption of the Virgin, by Do- menichino ! ! ! The Chapel to the left, on approaching the high altar, is embellifhed with frefcos attributed to Domenichino. The baldaquin of the high-altar is fupported by four porphyry columns, and the tribuna adorned with mofaics of the twelfth cen- tury. This Church likewife contains a piece of ancient mofaic, reprefenting ducks. Not cold-. In the Piazza before the Church is a fountain made in the time of Adrian I. XIV. Chief a di S. Cecilia in Tr aft ever e. In the court leading to this Church is a fine antique marble vaie. The high-altar is adorned with four columns of nero and bianco antico ; under the altar is the cele- C 9 K^f,, J 20 LETTERS FROM ITALY, brated ftatue of St. Cecilia, by Stefano Ma- demo, in the very pofition in which fhe was found in the cimetero di S. Callflo. Under this altar, likewife, is the body of the Saint, whofe tomb confiils of lapis lazuli, alabafter, jafper, agate, &c. Over the altar is a fmall picture of the Madonna, by Annibale Ca- racci ; and in the tr'tbuna behind, is the executioner cutting off St. Cecilia's head, by Guido. Here, likewife, leading out of the church, on the right as you enter, is an ancient Vapour-Bath, quite perfect, in which it is conjectured that St. Cecilia fufrered martyrdom: it is now turned into a chapel. Not very cold. EIGHTH DAY. I. Palazzo Mattei, built by Ammannati, on the foundations of the Circus FJam'tnlus. From the court below you have a view of feveral valuable pieces of fculpture which adorn the walls of the Palace ; the moll fa- mous BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 21 mous of thcfe is a baffo rilievo of Greek workmanfhip, reprefenting Egyptian figures. On the flairs are four antique feats of mar- ble, taken from the Curia Hoflillia, toerc- ther with two fine bajji rilievi. The Portico above is adorned with buffi rilievi ; and the ceiling of the Gallery finely painted by Pietro di Cortona. Here likewife is a ceiling, by Domenichino, reprefenting Abraham blef- fing Efau ; another reprefenting Jacob's ladder, by Albano ; and another reprefent- ing Jacob and Rachael at the well, by Dominichino.* II. Pahzzo * This Palace contains a fine eagle in bronze — t'.vo pictures of filhes, by Pafleri — one pifture repre- fenting poultry, and another butcher's-meat, by the fame — Out Saviour and the Woman ot SamarL, by Antonio Veronefe ' — Martha and Maw Magdalene, by the fame — a fmall aflumption, by KafTaeilc when young ! — Chrill betrayed, by Gerardo delie Note. Here, likewife, is our Saviour disputing whh th.e Doctors, by Caravaggio ! — the Pharifees ihewing the money to our Saviour, by Rubens, or Rcivhk ■ it ! — - the Woman taken in adultery, by Pietro di Cor- C 3 tona ! ! 22 LETTERS FROM ITAL*, II. Palazzo Coftaguti, remarkable for nx ceilings. ]ft. Hercules wounding the Cen- taur, by Albano. — 2d. The Sun in his car, Time bringing Truth 10 light, and Boys with the Lion's fkin, Hercules's club, &c. by Dominichino ! ! — 3d. Rinaldo and Ar- mida, by Guercino. — 4th. Venus, Cupid, he. by Cav. d'Arpino. — 5th. Juftice em- bracing Peace, by Lanfranco. — 6th. Orion thrown into the fea and preferred by a Dolphin, by Romanelli ! ! Not cold. Give three pauls. III. Palazzo Falconieri. On the top of the flairs is a fine Statue of Minerva, and another c{ Hv by Titian — the Madonna and Child, by RafFaclle — our Saviour when a Child, Handing be- tween two other Children, by Vanni — Paintings on glafs, BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1/Q8. '27 III. Palazzo Giuftinianiy built upon Ne- ro's Baths, from whence many of the fta- tues, butts, and Other antiques were taken. In the Hall, above-Jlairs, is a ftatuc of Mar- ccllus fitting.* TENTH gl.-.fs, by Carlo Maratti — .^Eneas and Anchifcs, by Barroccio, done when be was feventv — divine and profane Love, by Titian — the Graces, by the fame — David, by Giorgione — St. Cecilia, by Guido — Ve- nus, Cupid, and a Satyr, by Paul Veroneie — a Ma- donna and Child, by Leonardo da Vinci — a fketch, by Uaffaclle — a Madonna and Child, by Carlo Dolci. — The apartments above-flairs contain leveral things worth feeing. Not very cold. Give four hauls. * Pictures. 2d room — Our Saviour with the two Marys, by Annibale Caracci. 3d room — The miracle of the loaves and fifhes, by Lodovigo Caracci. \th room — Noli me tangere, by M A. Caravaggio — the Woman taV.cn in adultery, by Paul Veroneie — Judith with the head of Holopherncs, by Andrea Mantegna — a head, by RafFaelle. bth room — A Holy Family, by Garofalo— Mofes, when a Child, b Guido — Ra- cbael, by Nicolas Pouflin ! ! ! — a Holy Familv, by Baroccio. Gallery — Marriage of Cana, by Paul Ve- ronefe ■ ! — Chrift dead, by L. Signorelli — the judge- ment of Solomon, by N. Pouffin — the Madonna and Jvlizabcth, by Agoftino Caracci. 9ih room — Our Sa- viour rifen from the grave, by M. A. Caravaggio — the Baker's Daughter, by the fame ! 10//; room — Chrift 23 LETTERS FROM ITALY, TENTH DAY. I. Palazzo Ah ten. The Princefs's private apartments are fitted up with peculiar ele- gance, and the doors made of oriental ala- bafter, and adorned with fine columns of porphyry.* ChrHt giving light to the Blind, by L. Caracci — the la.fl fupper, by Albano. — Sculpture — a flatuc of Paris, or Hymen ! ! ! — a Greek itatue, with the arms ele- vated : ! — a bull of Alexander — another of Vitellius — a. large vale adorned with beautiful bajfi rilievit — a goat — buft of a faun ! ! — a ftatue of Minerva, with the ferpent at her feet, faid to have been Bund in the Temple of Minerva Medica ! ! ! — a celebrated baff'o- rilicvo of Amalthea, giving fuck to Jupiter, faftened into the wall ! ! ! 1 he room:, which contain the pic- ture: arc toh rably warm ; the fc which contain thefiatues •j cry cold. Give four pauls, and go of a light day, thS. 2Q II. Palazzo Colowia. This noble Edifice is divided into two parts, each of which has it's Cujlodi — the right-hand divifion, when the fun fhines npon it, is tolerably warm ; the left-hand divifion very cold.* III. Palazzo * Ground-floor — .library — and temper a -paintings by G. Pouffin and other celebrated M afters ; thefe apart- ments, however, are not ufually fhewn. Onthr ftair- cafe — a ftatue of a Slave, and a fine porphyry head of Mcdufa, in bafjo-rilievo. Right-hand divifion — iff. room adorned with pictures — two paintings (originally joined together) in Rafraelle's fiiit ftyle — an Ecce Homo, by Albano — a defcent from the crofs, by BafTkno — Ganymede with the eagle, by Titian ! ! .' — Luropa, by Albano — a poor Man eating, by Annibale Caracci — a portrait, byTintoret — two ditto, bv Titian — a Madonna and Child, fuppofedto be by RafFaelle — Venus ami Adonis, by Titian — portraits of Calvin and Luther, by Titian. — Gallery — this apartment is {tak- ingly magnificent with refpect to it's fize, marbles, cabinets, ftatues and pictures. — Entrance or vc/ilole ,-o the gallery — on one fide of the ivory and ebony cabinet is a beautiful landfcape, by Claude Lorain ! ! ! ( )n the other fide an almoil equallv beautiful one, !>y Pouflin ! ! Above the cabineta landfcape, by PoufTm The cabinet is wonderfully executed. On the fame fide with the Cabinet of precious iloncs, are two capi- tal landscapes by Salvator Rofa T'Lis entrance - .f Flora ! — an Lcce Homo by Corrcggio — the plague, by Nicolas Pouhln \ \ I — an Ecce Ihmo, by Aibano — a Sibyl, by Guercino — iketch of a Magdalene, by Guido — death of Regulus, by Salvator Rofa ! ! ! — a battle, by the larne — apieta, by Guercino.— Left-hand divijion — iketches, by Borgognone — a tempefl by Bakhuifen ! — another fea-piecc, by the fame — a Claude — the famous belgic column once placed in the Temple of Beilona ! ! i — the Apotheofisof Homer ! .' ' — Cupids ileeping. — Second-floor — a Magdalene, by Guido! ! — tketch of the martyrdom of St. Peter, by Titian ! ! a Madonna and Child, by Battoni — a land.- fcape, by Lucateili. Give three pauls to each cujiodl. >; Fi r ft room — Landfcapes, by G. Poufiin. — 2d. room. a landfcape with figures, by Pouifin, rcprefentrng the birth of Adonis ! — ditto, reprefenting Venus ftealin£ Adonis from his Mother, by the fame painter!— a Turkifh Woman on horfeback, by Caftiglione ! — 3d. t'iom — a landfcape, by Botlw-fevcral pictures by B t'Fano JBETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1 / Q3. 31 ELEVENTH DAY. I. Palazzo Barherini. On the Jl air-cafe is an alto-riVtevo and a lion !!! — Hall, on the firfl Baifano — one by Albano. — Ath room — a defcent from the crofs, by Paul Veronefe — Cain and Abel, by Salrator RoJa ! — Chrift bearing his crofs, by Frange- pani ! — portraits of Bartoli and Bald:, by Raffaclle ! — : a pictu, by Annibale Caracci — a portrait of a Lady, by Rubens !-— bth non-two fmall pi&ures, by Andrea Montegna — portrait of Holbens, byhimfelf — ditto of his Wife, by hirafelf. — 6t/i room* — Jcarus and Dedalus; by Albano. — Gallery — two pictures by Muflilino — F.lizabeth meeting Mavy, by Garofalo — a Madonna, by Saflbferrato — a Magdalene, by Calabrefe — ditto, by Titian ! — a Claude ! ! ! — iix femi -circular pictures, by Annibale Caracci ! ! ! — S. Rocco, by Schidonc — a Claude! ! ! — the creation of Animals, by Breugel ! ! — Small rooms adjoining to the gallery — \Jl. room — a iketch, by Titian. — ith rwr. — a landfcape, by Baf- fano— nflitto, by Pouffin — two ditto, by Both. — Gallery continued '--a Claude ! 1 ! — the prodigal Son, by Guer- cino — St. Agnes, by the fame — portrait of Pope Pan- fili, by Diego Valefquez! ! .' — a Madonna and Child., by Guido — two landfcapes by Claude ! — a holy Fa- mily, by Saflbferrato — a landfcape by Both — MiferS counting money, by Albert Durer ! — Luther, Calvin, and Catherine, by Titian — two landfcapes, by Dome- nichino i 82 LETTERS FROM ITALY, flrjl floor — a celebrated ceiling, by Pietro di Cortona, faid to be his chef-d 'auvre !!!! The fubjecT; is allufive to Urban VIII. In the centre is the Barberini arms, carried to Heaven by the Virtues in prefence of God, who is furrounded by Time, Eter- nity, the Fates, &c. On one fide is Mi- nerva vanquifhing the Titans ; on another Religion and Faith ; with Voluptuoufnefs beneath on the left hand, and Silenus on the right. On the third fide are figures of Juftice and Abundance in the air ; and below them, Charity on the right, and nichino ! — Abraham facrifking Ifaac, by Titian ! ! — a Magdalene, by Annibale Caracci- — a rural dinner, by Tenicrs, in which is his own portrait — a copy of the Aldobrandine marriage, by N. Pouffin. — \/l. room leading from the gallery — a beautiful pavement. — 2d. room — two paintings, by Giotto. — 'id. ditto — two pic- tures, by Baffano — one by Pouflin — and one by Salva- tor Rofa ! — Uh roam — landfcapes by Both and Paul Brill. — bih room — landfcapes by G. Pouffin and Paul Brill. Gi vc four pciuls. Hercules BETWEEN 17Q2AND l/QS. 33 Hercules killing the Harpies on the left. On the fourth fide are two figures, one of which reprefents the Church, the other, Prudence ; and, beneath them, is Vulcan's forge on the left hand, and Peace Ihuttlng the Temple of Janus on the right. 3d room — a ceiling by Andrea Sacchi, repre- fenting divine wifdom. Cabinet — Z>u?iettcs f by Andrea del Sarto.* II. Palazzo * Pifturcs of St. Paul and St. John, by Andrea Sacchi — two Pouffins over the door. 4th room — ■ S. Rofalia curing the Plague, by'Pietro di Cortona ! Left hand -.vino;, \fi room — a Holy Family, by Titian. '2d room — X >.di intoxicated, by Andrea Sacchi — Apollo flaying Marfyas, by ditto — heads, by Titian and Guercino. Up /lairs — S. Andrea Corimi, by Guido ! ! ! — a Magdalen, by ditto ! ! — St. John, by Guercino— S. Gerolamo, by Spagnoletto— Raffaelle's Miilreis, by himfelf ! !- and a copy by Giulio Romano ' — Vanity and Modefty, by Leonardo da Vinci! ! ! — Death of Germanicus, by X. Poufiin ! ! !— a Sibyl, bv Roma- nrlli — two portraits, bv Titian. Give three pauh. I he apartments of the Piincefs of Paleftrina arc faid to contain a tin. collection of pictures ; but in conle- \ ;l. LI. D que; . s 34 LETTERS FROM ITALY, II. Palazzo RofpigUofi. This Edifice was creeled on the ruins of Conftantine's Baths. Here quence of a death in the family, they were not ftiewn laft winter. On the ground Jioor are feveral rooms which contain a large collection of ftatues, Sec. namely — Egyptian Gods — Septimus Severus, in bronze — the Etrufcan Divinity, Abundance. — a colofTal buft of Adrian — Sarcophagi — a figure of a Woman warning herfelf ! — a ftatue of Tiberius — another of Marcus Aurelius — an Ifis — butts of Marius and Sylla ! — a fine table, with a fmall equeftrian ftatue in bronze of Marcus Aurelius — bufts of Commodus and Trajan — a ftatue of Erato — a farcophagus adorned with bajji rilievi — a ftatue of Agrippina — a large mafk — fine marble columns — coloflal bufts of Antinous and Juno — a buft of Lucius Verus — another of Marcus Aurelius — aftatue of Diana — a table made of precious marbles — an antique mofaic found at Paleftrina, re- prefenting the rape of Europa ! ! — ftatues of Juno, Commodus and Venus — two antique frefcos found in the gardens of Saluft ! one of which reprefents Rome triumphant, and is quite perfect, the other, Venus going to bathe : this laft has been rcftored by Carlo Maratli — a clalr ebfeur, by Polidore de Cara- vaggio — Sarcophagi adorned with baffi-rilievi, one of which reprefents Apollo, Minerva, and the Mufes ; another, the obfequies of Mcleager — Flora feated — the fleeping Faun ! ' ' one of the fincft Grecian fta- tues BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1/98. 35 Here is a Qujlodi belonging to the garden, another belonging to the ground-floor and attic ftory of the palace, and another be- longing to the firft-floor. A building in the Garden contains the famous Aurora of Guido, one of the fineft frefcos in Rome ! ! ! ! Rather damp and cold. Give two pauls. Ground Jioor of the Palace — Rape of Pro- ierpine on the ceiling of one of the rooms, by Giovanni di S. Giovanni. Rape of Eu- ropa on the ceiling of another room, by the fame ! Rape of Neptune on the ceil- ing of another room, by the fame. Firft Jioor — A room elegantly painted in frefco, tucs that has been found at Rome ; it once adorned the Maufoleum of Adrian — an altar*— a fick Satyr-— a column of African marble — feveral bufls — a pan- ther — a roe, and a goat — two ftatues of Silenus — an ancient bath — a fleeping Love — and a large table of Egyptian granite. All the apartments are cold, and thofe on the ground-floor efpecially jo. Give three pauls. This Palace contains an immenfe Library. The foun- tain in the Piazza Barberini is a very fine one, though fo much overgrown with weeds that its beau- ties are fcarcely dilcernible. D 2 and 36 LETTERS FROM ITALY, and on the ceiling the car of Evening, by Giovanni di S. Giovanni.* TWELFTH * Ground-floor of the Palace — A fketch of the ce- lebrated clefcent from the crofs, by Daniello da Vol- terra ! ! — four fketches of the angles of the cupola of S. Andreadella Valle, by Domenichino ! ! — St. Ceci- lia, by the fame ! ! — two paintings found in Conftan- tine's baths .' ! — Head of Venus, by Titian ! ! ! Gal- lery — fifteen ancient paintings found in Confbntine's Baths — feveral fhitues and bufts, likewife found in the Bath?, among which is a head of Venus, ex- tremely like that in the tribune of the Florentine Gal- lery, and not inferior in beauty ! ! ! Here is an ancient candelabre, and a verde antique bafon. — Very cold. ?>d attic Jiory — \Jl room — drawings of ftatues, by Carlo Maratti. 2d room — four battles, by Leandre the elder — four landfcapes by Manglar ; that wirlt the figure of our Saviour walking on the fea is particularly pleating. 3d room- — fourteen fea-pieces by Manglar— -a landfcape, by Claude ! ! 4t/i room — a landfcape, by Paul Brill ! — people blowing glafs, by Gerard della Xotte ! — a fruit- woman and her child, by Guercino ! ! — a Claude ! ! ! — a landfcape, by G. Poullin— two pictures, by N. PoufTin, one reprefent- ing the Madonna and our Saviour with Angels ! ! ! and deemed one of his very fincfl works ; the other, the four feafons, or human life, and almoft equally fine ! ! ! — a Holy Family, by Titian— ceiling by Carlo Maratti. BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 /Q8. 3/ TWELFTH DAY. I. Villa Aldobrandinl.* II. Villa Lcdovifia. One of the build- ings Maratti. 5th room — Lot awl his Daughters, by An- nibale Caracci — a Holy Family, by N. Pouiiin — Noah and his Sons, by Andrea Sacchi ! ' — Cyclops, by UafTano— the faithful Friends, by Guereino !— u Holy Family, by Pietro Perugino — St. John, by Leo- nardo da Vinci — S. Rofalia, by Rubens — Pilate warn- ing his hands, by Calabrcfe ! ! ! — the circumcifion, by Rubens — two landfcapes, by Pietro Tefta — two cattle-pieces — a portrait, by Vandyck — ditto by Ru- bens — ditto by Titian. C:k room — fmall piftures, namely — a Salvator Rofa — a Claude — a Paul Brill — two landfcapes, bv Luccatelli. 1th room — a Madonna, fct. John, and our Saviour, bv Garofalo ! ! ' — draw- ings, by Guereino and other celebrated Mailers. Cold. Give four pauh. Ath f.rfl floor — the vifitation, bv Gerolamo Muziana — Samionileeping, with his haiv cut off, by Ann. Caracci — a hunt, by Paul Brill — fe- veral landfcapes bv the fame — Andromeda, by Guido — our Saviour and the twelve A pottles, all in feparate pitfhues, by Guido ! ! • our Saviour cx<]uifitely fine ' A'.' cold. Give three pauls. In theflrfl floor of this Villa is an antique frefeo- ling, found in Titus's Baths, and commonly D 3 vinrinci- 38 LETTERS FROM ITALY, ings in the garden of this Villa contains Guercino's morning ! ! ! a tempera-painting equally famous with, though totally diffe- rent from, that of Guido ; the one being day-break, the other fun-rife. The ceiling of the room directly over Guercinp's morn- ing, is adorned with a beautiful figure of Fame, accompanied by War and Peace, all by Gucrcino ! ! Give three or four pauls. It is necefTary to ehoofe a dry warm day for feeing this Villa, every thing worth notice called, the Aldobrandini marriage : it is injured by time, though Hill fufficiently perfect to furnifh a con- vincing proof of the excellence of ancient paintings. Id fio$r — a portrait, by Tintqret, of S. Nicolas di Tolentina ! — an original fketch, by Giulio Romano, of his Apollo and the Mufes ! ! — another head, by Tintoret — a dead Chrift, by Andrea Mantegna — Bac- chus and Ariadne, by Titian ! ! — the miracle of the demoniac Boy, by Garofalo ! — Our Saviour and two of his Difciples, faid to be by r J i ian — the repofe of the Gods, by John Bellino, r J itian's Mailer — a concert, b Parmigiano. Without-Jide of the Villa are fume celebrated alti-ril;evi, reprefenting Boxers, a facrificc, he. Mather cold. Give three pauls. being BETWEEN 1792 AXD 1/98. 3Q being; in the garden, which is extremely damp and cold.* III. Qh'iefa dlS.Agnesc fuorc di Porta Pia. Phis Edifice was erected by Conflantine the Great, over the grave of St. Agnes, at the defire of his Daughter Conffcantia. Here are fixteen antique columns, two of which are beautifully fluted. The high-altar is of precious marbles, and under it lies the body of St. Agnes. The Baldaqit'm is fupported by four fine porphyry pillars. In the Chapel of the Madonna is a curious antique candelabre ; and over the altar a head of our Saviour, by Buonarroti. Be- hind the Church of S. Agnefe is that of S. Coftanza, dedicated by Conflantine to * Another building contains a celebrated ftatuc of Mars!!! — a beautiful Group, fuppofed to reprefent Phaedra and Ilippolitus, by Menelaus, a Grecian Sculptor ! ! ! ! — another Group, called Petusand Aria, but not Grecian ! ! and a baffo-rHicvo of Pyrrhus • ! ! — Near the garden-gate is a celebrated head of funo ; and, in the garden a flatue of a Senator, with " Ze- non," the name of a Greek, fculptor, on the drapery. D 4 rhriftian 40 LETTERS FROM ITALY, chriitian worfhip, that it might fervc as a burial-place for his Daughter. This beauti- ful and interefting edifice, fuppofcd toi.have been originally a temple of Bacchus, {till retains its ancient form. The cupola is fupported by twenty-four granite columns, placed in a double row ; and in the middle of the church is an elevated fquare, where the pagan-altar fcems formerly to have ffcood, and where now reft the bones of S. Cof- tanza. That part of the roof neareft to the circular wall, is adorned with curious ancient rnofaics, reprefenting a vintage ; and the porphyry Sarcophagus in the Mufeum at the Vatican, ornamented with Boys and grapes, was taken from this Temple. Theft two churches may he feen at any hour, as the Sacriftan refutes upon the {pot — they are ex- tremely damp and cold. Give a paid and a half. THIRTEENTH DAY. I. Villa Doria, particularly interefting from BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1/98. 41 from having once belonged to RafFaelle, who has embellifhed it with paintings by his own hand ; one of which reprefents the marriage of Alexander, and another Genii mooting at a mark. Here, hkewife, are paintings by Raffaelle's Scholars. Give two pauls. II. Villa Borghefe. (This beautiful and magnificent Villa is Jo cold, and Jo much is to bejeen in the grounds, that itjhould be vifited in warm dry weather only). IVithoi't-JJde of the houfe — Priam imploring Achilles to rcitore the body of Hector, a baffb-rilicvo. In the hall — an alto-rilievo of Curtius leap- in 2; into the gulph ! ! ! ! — opnofite to this, another alio-riVurjo, which feems to repre- fent a facrifice.* III. Villa * Second rcoii. A celebrated V.iie adorned with Bacchanals ! ! ! — Venus corning out of the Bath. room — a recumbent Bacchus — the bi.lt ot Scipio Afri- canus — a {landing Bacchus. 4;//. room — group of the Graces— deeping B»>vs. bv Algardi — Boys with a goat -— ftalue or beliiarius iiiluig- — ditto oi a Boxei — a landicape, 42 LETTERS FROM ITA.LT, III. Villa Madama. This houfc was de- signed by RafTaelle, and adorned with paint- ings by his Scholars. Give a paul and a half. landfcape, by Moore. 5th room — buft of Lucius Verus ! ! ! — buft of Marcus Aurelius — two ftatues of Fauns. 6 th. room — the Hermaphrodite, one of the moll celebrated pieces of fculpture in Rome ! ! ! ! the mattrefs is by Bernini, and excellently well done, infomuch as to be called his chef-efceuvre ! 1th room — the fighting Gladiator, by Agafias, the Ephefian ! ! ! ! faid to be the fineft piece of fculpture remaining in Rome, the ftatues on Monte Cavallo excepted ; one arm was reftorcd by Buonarroti — ftatues of Polinia and Ceres — a Wolf in rofa antico fuckling Romuius and Remus. 8th room — Egyptian Divinities — ftatues ef Juno — Diana — and a Moor. 9th. room — Siienus with Bacchus in his arms ! ! ! — the Centaur vanquished by Love ! ! ! Up flairs— a. pifture of Venus, hy Ti- tian ! ! — a fmall highly finished picture of a Country- man with his bottle, and fome other paintings, chiefly of the Flcmifh fchool. Give tivo pauls. Building oppojite to the targe and beautiful fountain in the grounds — a colle&ion of ftatues found at Gabia, among which arc a celebrated buft of Marcus Agrip- pa ! ! ! — a ftatuc of Germanicus — another of Cicero — a buft of Adrian — another of Tiberius — and a grey- hound ! Give one paul. N. B. BETWEEN 1792 AND 17Q8. 43 N. B. Every Bajitica is, or ought to be, always open. Perfons wifhing to be furc of admittance at any given hour to the Pa- laces and Villas, mould fend a day before- hand. At the Capitol and Vatican admit- tance is eafily obtained at almofl every hour — at St. Peter's it is wife to appoint the Sa- criftan a day before-hand. Perfons wifhing to fee fmall and unfrequented Churches, fhould fend a day before-hand.* There are cloth-fhocs fold in the ftrects of Rome for about three or four pauls the pair, which Invalids mould always put on over their other fhoes, or boots, when they vifit churches, palaces, and villas. It is likewife prudent to put on an extra coat, or cloak, on going into moft by Calabrefe ! Chiefa di Sa. Maria Maggiore — erected on the ruins of a Temple of Diana — a fine cu- pola ! Chiefa di S. Paolo Maggiore — This {lately edifice ftands upon the fite of an ancient Temple, fuppofed to have been erected by Julius Tarfus, Tiberius' s Freed-man, who dedicated it to Caftor and Pollux. Much of this temple remained till the earthquake of 1G88 ; but, now, only two columns are en- tire. Thefe noble veltiges of antiquity, two bafes of other columns, and the trunks of the ftatues of Caltor and Pollux, (recumbent figures half buried in the wall) are without G 2 iide 8-1 tETTERS FROM ITALY, fide of the Church, the elevation of -which is very elegant, and the infide beautifully incrufled with marble, and embellifhed with paintings by Maffimo, Belifairius, and Solimene ! The Sacrifty contains paintings by the laft-named Mailer ! The Cloifters of the adjoining Convent are embellifhed with antique columns, and built upon the fite of an ancient Ptoman Theatre, where Nero firft exhibited in public. CJi'iefa di S. Lorenzo — Statues by Gio- vanni di Kola, and fine marble columns taken from the ancient palace of the Re- public. Chiffa di S. Filippo Neri — One of the handfomefl churches in Naples — it was begun, A. D. 158(5, after the defign of Denys di Bartolomeo — the outfidc is of fine marble, the infide lined with the fame, and divided into three ailes by magnificent granite columns. Near the great door is an immenfe frefco, by Giordano, of our Saviour BETWEEN 1/Q2 A2TD i;Q8. 86 Saviour chafing the Buyers and Sellers from the Temple ! — Over the fifth altar on the right-hand, is Sa. Terefa, with her Carme- lites, at the foot of a crucifix, by the fame Mafter~on the opposite fide of the aile, S. Francefco, by Guido ! — together with the Chapel of our Saviour, admired for it's architecture — and between this and the high-altar, is the Chapel of S, Filippo Ncri, containing a cupola, by Solimene, which re- prefents the Saint in glory. On the oppofite fide of the high-altar is another Chapel, the cupola of which was painted by Solimene — the fubjecl; being Judith mewing Holo- phernes's head to his Army. The high- altar and it's columns are of precious mar- bles, the pavement is marble, and very ele- gant. In the Sacrifty are pictures attributed to Guido, Domenichino, and Palma. — Here is one of the four great Libraries of ^aplcs. G 3 The 86 LETTERS FROM ITALY, The Cathedral, commonly called Vefco- vado, or, La Chlcja dl S. Gennaro, the Pa- tron of Naples, is an ancient Gothic Edifice, built by Nicolo Pifano, upon the ruins of a Temple of Apollo, and afterwards repaired under Alphonfo I. in confequence of it's be- ing confiderably damaged by the earthquake of 1485. — The outfide is cafed with beauti- ful white marble, the infide by no means fplendid — the Font is antique, and adorned with thyrfifes and mafks — ftrange orna- ments for a chriitian temple ! over the high- altar is an affumption, by Perugino. The Chapel called, // Te/bro, and built in confe- quence of a vow made by the City of Na- ples during the Plague of 1526, is a very fine one, it's cupola was painted by Lan~ franco ! The large picture of S. Gennaro coming out of the furnace is by Spagno- letto. The blood of S. Gennaro, collected, as it is faid, by a Neapolitan Lady, during BETWEEN 1702 AND 17Q8. 8/ his martyrdom, is kept in this chapel, and the ceremony of liquifying it performed in the months of September and May. The fubterranean Chapel of S. Gennaro, which contains his body, is fuppofed to be a re- maining part o( the ancient Temple of Apollo, and therefore worth notice. — Santa Reflituta, formerly the Cathedral, which joins the church of S. Gennaro, w r as creel- ed during the reign of Conftantine, and is fupported by Corinthian columns, probably taken from the Temple of Apollo : it pof- jfefTes no charm but it's antiquity, and is moreover excejjively damp. Chiefa de S. S. ApoJioB. A handfome edi- fice creeled on the fite of a Temple of Mer- cury, and confecrated to the Apoftles by Conftantine ; it w 7 as, however, rebuilt in 102(5. Over the great door is a large frefco by Viviani ! — The cupola was painted by Binafchi, and the ceiling of the middle- aile and principal chapels by Lanfranco, G i who 88 LETTERS FROM ITALT, •who likewife did the pictures in the choir — « the nativity of the Madonna is by Giordano! ■ — and the prefentation in the temple, by the fame Mailer. — The high-altar is richly orna- mented, and on it's left is a celebrated bajjb- rilievo by Fiamingo, reprefenting a concert of Children ! ! — this bajfo-r'rfievo makes one of the ornaments of the Filomarino-Chapel, great part of which was executed after the defigns of Guido, by Calandra de Verceih The Chapel of the Conception on the oppo- fite fide merits notice, as does the Sacnfty. Chiefa di S. Giovanni a Carbonara, re- markable for an immenfe Gothic tomb of Lodiflas, King of Naples, another of Gio- vanni Caracciolo, and likewife for the fculp- tnre in the Vico-Chapel. La Vicaria merits notice, as it is curious to obfcrve how Juftice (falfely fo called) is adminiftercd at Naples : added to which, this once was the royal rcfidence. Ofpedak di Sa. Maria Annunziata — This is BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 8$ is the richeft Hofpital at Naples* and the church belonging to it is faid to be a good piece of architecture. Chiefa di Sa. Maria del Carmine — An af- fumption, by Solimene. Adjoining to the Royal Palace is the Porce- lain Manufacture, which, in beauty of dc- f:gn and elegance of fhape, may vie with any porcelain in the world.* Palazzo Berrio — In the Garden is a nele- gant little Building, containing a Group in * Here is the celebrated antique Statue of Agrip- pina, the mother of Nero, who feems to be repre- sented at the moment when iTie is told that her Son dooms her to death. The mild, pathetic, deep de- fpair, cxprcfTed throughout the whole of this charm- ing fiatue, is wonderful, and proves that iculpture, when carried to it's higheft pitch of excellence, can move the paflions quite as much as does the fincft poetry!!! — Here alio are ftalues of Cariatedes— Ceres — Ills — a Hercules in bronze (Irangling Lhe fer- pent^, with beautiful baJJi-rUievi on the pedenal— a .Mercury in bronze — antique marble vafe — itatues of Caligula, Lucius V'crus, and Marcus Aurelius— a b Lift of Homer ! &c. — together with a line collection of Grecian Yafes. Give jive or.Jix carlini. white gO LETTERS FROM ITALY, in white marble of Venus and Adonis, faid to be the chef-d' 'ceuvre of Canova. Here the Servants take no money. The abominable Neapolitan cuftom of throwing dead bodies, without coffins, into burial-places under the churches, renders it dangerous for the Living to enter thofe which are moll: ufed as receptacles for the Dead. Travellers who wifli to vifit the Churches bell; worth notice, and leail objectionable on the above-mentioned account, mould con- fine themfelves to Sa. Maria del Parto — S. Martino — Trinita-Maggiore — Sa. Chiara — S. Domenico-Magglore — S. Maria del Pieta < — S. Paolo -Maggiore — S. Filippo Neri — S, Gennaro — and Santi Apojloli. Naples contains feveral Theatres, name- ly ; Tea fro di S. Carlo — Teatro de Fior en- tint Teatro Xhgvo— — Teatro del Fondo — Teatro di S. Ferdinando — and Teatro di S. Carlino. S. Carlo is ufually confidered as the BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1798. 91 the fineft Theatre in Italy ; it was built after the defign of Ametrani, and has fix lows of boxes, a fpacious parterre, and an immenfe flage. The looking-glaiTes which once adorned this Theatre are now taken away, and paintings fubilituted in their ftead; thefe laft, however, are not in a good tafte. The climate of Naples differs materially in different parts of the City. Perfons who ' wim for an air congenial to weak lungs ihould live in the Fouria. In Largo dl Cajiello and it's environs, the air is tolerably foft ; but in the quarter of S. Lucia, the vicinity of the fca, united with the dampnefs occafioned by a tufo-moun- tain, directly under which the houfes are built, renders the air extremely dangerous to Invalids, and by no means wholefome for perfons in good health. The houfes on the Chlaia are lefs dangerous than thofe in the quarter of S. Lucia, becaufe further re- moved 02 LETTERS FROxM ITALY, moved from the tufo-mountain ; but their fituation is too much expofed for Perfons afflicted with weak lun^s, befides which the fun upon the Chiaia is unwholefome. Great care mould be taken by Foreigners in order to procure good water, a fcarce commodity at Naples — That ot the Foun- tain Medina, near Largo del Caftello, that of the Marinella, in the quarter of S. Lucia, and that of the Fountain di S. Pietro Mar- tire, is excellent ; but Perfons who do not contrive to procure water from one of thefe fountains, which are all fupplied by an equeduct, incur the rifle of being attacked with a dyfentery, or fome other putrid dif- order. The population of Naples is fuppofed to amount to about three hundred and fixty thoufand fouls ; forty thoufand of whom, according to many Writers, are termed La- %arorii, from having no home, and being confequently obliged to make the flreets their BETWEEN 1/92 AND l/QS. 93 their fleeping-place ; this, however, is un- true, it being quite as rare to fee the Indi- gent without a bed at Naples as in any other City of Italy : the facl is, that the Lazaroni ilecp three or four in one bed, pay- ing a grain each to their Landlord. There are feveral Inns, or, more properly fpeaking, Lodgmg-Houfcs, at Naples, name- ly ; the Albergo R'eak — the Lione aVoro — the Albergo di L" Kmperatore — the Aquila Nera — the Procele — the Villa Imperiale — the Gran- Bret x agmiy &c. The character of the Neapolitans has been much miftaken by Travellers, who feem in- clined to think the lower claffes of People cunning, rapacious, profligate, and cruel ; and the more exalted, ignorant, ill-bred, licentious, and revengeful ; this, however, is not, generally fpeaking, true ; for the com- mon people arc good-humoured, open- hearted, and though paflionate, (o fond of drollery, g4 LETTERS FROM ITALY, drollery, that a Man in the greateft rage will fuffer himfelf to be calmed by a joke : and though a Neapolitan fometimes does an in- jury from the firft: impulfe of anger, that im- pulfe paft, he never harbours malice. Thofe among the common People who have mixed much with Foreigners, are expert in bar- gains and eager to extort money ; while thofe who have lived chiefly among each other difplay no fuch propenfitics : and what fcems to indicate a noble difpofition is, that they all may be governed by kind words, while a contrary language never fails to fruftrate it's own purpofe. Gentlemen of the Church, Law, and Army, are tolerably well educated ; and in this middle rank may be found as much true friendfhip, as much fterling worth, and as many amiable charac- ters, as in any Nation whatfoevcr; neither arc examples wanting, even among the No^ bility, of talent:-, erudition, and moral vir- tue ; BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 1 /Q8. Q5 tue ; though the Government of Naples is fo defpotic, and confequently fo jealous of rifing Merit, that Perfons who really pofTefs power to diflinguiih themfelves feldom dare to exert it. LETTER 8$ Letters from italt, LETTER XXL Naples, September 17QJ. t I ^HE environs of Naples are extremely -*- interefting, far more fo, indeed, than the City itfelf. The Bay, which fecms to have been the mouth of an extinct volcano, is embellimed with feveral beautiful Iflands ; while, on it's weflern fide, lie Paufilipo, Puzzuoli, Baiie, &c. ; and to the eaft, Por- tici, Stabia, Paellum, and Sorrento. The Bay of Naples was formerly more extenfive than it is at prefent, as appears from the situation of two ancient Light-Houfes, both of which, now, are actually in the heart of the City : the ruins of the molt ancient may be feen behind the Church of S. Ono- frlo de Vecchi, the other ftood on the hte of G-esil 2s novo. I will between 17Q2 and i;gs. 97 I will now mention what we found the moft convenient way of vifiting the Anti- quities and Natural Curiofities in the envi- rons of Naples. EXCLUSION TO POMPEII, IIERCULANEUM AND PORTICI. WE hired a carriage for the whole day, took a cold dinner, bread, wine, knives, forks, and glailcs, and fet out at feven in the inorning for Pompeii, bargaining, how- ever, with our Voiturin to flop two or three hours at Portici on our return. Pompeii is between thirteen and fourteen Englifri miles diftant from Naples ; the road lies through Portici, Torrc-del-Greeo, and Torre-dcl- Annunziata. You likewife pail; through rich Vineyards, and over various {breams of lava, poured down by Vemvius towards the fea, hi confequence of different eruptions. V, e drove to that hdc ot Pompeii which con- tains the Soldiers" Barracks, where we \ ol. ii. ll out 98 LETTERS FROM ITALY, out of the carriage, ordering our horfes to be put up near the excavated Villa on the oppofite fide of the Town, and our dinner to be carried to the juffc-named Villa : we then walked (accompanied by the Cicerone, who is very intelligent,) through the Bar- racks and all the excavated ruins near them, and from thence crofTed a large vineyard, under which is the central part of the Town, to an excavated Street, fuppofed to be the Appian-way; afterwards proceeding through the gate of Pompeii to the tombs near it, and then going to the Villa above-mentioned, by far the moil curious object of inveftiga- tion vet difcovered. We dined in this Villa, and then fent for our carriage to take us up at the c;arden-2'ate. Pompeii was buried under afhes and pu- micc-ilones thrown out from Vefuvius, A. D. 70 ; and accidentally difcovered by fome Peafants, A. D. 1/50, as they were digging in a vineyard near the River Sarno. The BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. Q9 The excavation of this interefling City was attended with lefs trouble and expence than that of Herculaneum, it being buried only twelve or fifteen feet under allies and pu- mice-ftone. On quitting your carriage you go down a fmall defcent to the Soldiers' Barracks, nearly an oblong-fquare, with a portico round it, fiipported by brick pillars fhiccocd and painted, with feveral figures in armour engraved upon them, llippofed to have been done by the Roman Soldiers. The rooms within the portico are of various dimen- fions, fome of the largefl being about fifteen feet fquare ; and in one of thefe (probably a prifon,) iron flocks were found, with fke- letons ftanding in them. This part of the City contains fragments of an ancient Doric Temple, evidently of an anterior date, and in it's appearance, far more fimply majeftic, than the reft of the yet excavated build- ings : within this Temple is an altar, and H 2 without- 100 LETTERS FROM ITALY, without-fide, near the entrance, another. The buildinir in general fecms to have been compofed or" a fort of tufo formed by depo- fltions from water, and the fame with that of which the temples at Pa^flum are built. Nearly adjoining to the Doric Temple, is mi open Theatre, originally lined throughout with beautiful white marble : that part which held the Spectators is of a femi-eir- cular form, and on either fide, near the fta^e, is a confular-feat : the orcheilra is enclofed within two ftraight walls, and di- vides the ftage from the fpectators : the ftage is very wide, but fo mallow, that little or no fecnery could have'been ufed : it had three entrances all in front, and behind were the green-room, c\ r c. That part where the Spectators fat, is built on the fide of a hill, according to the cuftom of the Greeks, and on the top of this hill were covered colo- nades for the Spectators to retire into when it rained — thefe colonades probably ferved at BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 /Q8. 101 at other times for a public walk, as they commanded a fine view of Capri, Stabia, &c. The different clalles of People afcended this Theatre by different ftair-cafes and lobbies, all of which fecm to have been very conve- nient. Nearly adjoining to the juft-de- lcribed Theatre is another, not fo large, though in moil: refpecls fimilar, except that it is faid to have been covered, but whether with an awning or a roof, does not appear. The Temple of ljis is in higher prefervation than many other of the ruins, and efpecially worth notice; for,, to contemplate thofe altars from whence fo many oracles have iinied, to trace the very hiding-place into which the Pricfts fqueezed themfelves when they fpofcc for the itatue of the Goddefs, nay, to difcovcr the fecrct ftairs bv which they afcended into the faucium fincionrm ; in fhort, to examine the conitruclion of a Temple evidently built long before Pompeii was dcflrovcd, is fureh a moil intereilimi fr.eculation. Inftrumcnts r t Li > t^r 102 LETTERS FROM ITALY, for facrifice, candelabres, &c. with the fkele- tons of Priefts, thought to have been 'feaft- ing at the time of the eruption, were found here. It appears that this temple had, been deftroyed by an earthquake previous to the general overthrow of the city, feveral ftumps of columns which feem originally to have fupported the building being {till difcerni- ble: this earthquake is mentioned by Se- neca ; it happened in the year 03. The pil- lars now {landing are compofed of brick {luccoed and painted, the capitals are the fame — the whole building like wife is fhic- coed, painted, and beautifully poliihed with- in and without — the floor is mofaic. The houfes already excavated are, generally {peaking, on a fmall fcale ; molt, of them, however, were evidently nothing more than {hops, and the habitations of Shopkeepers. Some few which fecrn to have belonged to Perfons of a higher clafs are adorned with a handfome portico in front, fupported by Doric BETWEEN 1792 AND 17Q8. 103 Doric columns, a large entrance, or hall, with a fountain in it's centre, and on the fides, bed-rooms which appear to have had little or no light except what came from the hall. In one houfe, which feems to have been three ftories high, there are three halls, and three fountains; indeed, wherever there is one of thefe courts, or halls, there never fails to be a fountain in the middle of it. The pillars of every portico are compofed of brick ftuccoed and painted — the rooms are ftuccoed, painted, and beautifully varnifh- cd — the roofs arched, with terraces on the top — the floors mofaic, and fcarce two of them alike. The windows were generally clofed with wooden mutters ; fome few, however, had glafs, which feems to have been thick, and not tranfparent — others had ifmglafs fplit into thin plates. The paint- ings in the mops and very fmall houfes feem nearly as elegant as in the large ones. The houfes ufually pointed out to Travellers H 4 contain 104 LETTERS FROM ITALY, contain — Fhfi houfe — a lion on the doof- fill, in mofaic — a fountain in the middle of . the yard. Second houfe — various paintings, namely, a Woman feated, reading a fcroll — a landfcape — comic and tragic mafks — a pretty bed-room with paintings on the walls, representing Venus attired by the Graces, and Venus and Adonis — here, likewife, is .a painting of a white flag fattened to a co- lumn, and an altar adorned with trophies emblematical of his death. Third houfe— two fnakes, emblems of longevity, done in mofaic at the entrance. Fourth houfe — Salve, " welcome," in mofaic on the threshold, and a curious labyrinth, or table for playing at an ancient game, in the cen- tre of one (A the floors* — paintings repre- senting; an altar, with n cock prepared for Sacrifice, and ir.ftrumcnts for facrince h by — a f.gurc of rEfculapius, and another of * The two juft-named mofaic s fecro ?< in< icatc that this houfe was an inn. TV/! ■ \ BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1/Q8. 105 Mars : — a Lady dreffing her hair — fighting Gladiators — a dancing Bacchante — a fine bull's head — fifli — flowers — poultry — and Cupid playing on the tibia. In one of the houfes likewife is a painting of a Grecian Temple, adorned with twenty fluted Doric pillars. One of the ihops (in appearance a foap-boiler's) had foap found in it — another fhop evidently was a coffee houfe, and the marks of the cups ftill remain upon the marble drelTer. With out-fide of another fhop are Hebrew characters, (not written with vowel-points) and other oriental cha- racters, which do not feem to be Hebrew. The iron- work of a calafh, apparently like thofe ufed at preient-in Naples, was found m the court of a houfe. The City-Gate. is highly interesting ; here is the centry-box for the Guard — a femi-circular feat in which the Romans ufed to aiTcmble and convene . — and a couple of tombs — all in great mea- sure perfect — near one of the tombs is a court JOG LETTERS FROM ITALY, court containing a ftone, on which the bodies of the Dead were burnt ; and on the walls of this court are large frightful earthen mafks with weeping faces. The tomb con- tains one large and feveral fmall niches for Turns; the large one is fuppofed to have been for the head of the Family. — The excavated Villa is more entire than any of the ruins yet laid open, feveral rooms, the garden and the cellar, being quite in their original flate ; the laft contains wine-veffels cemented to the wall by the cinders which overwhelmed the citv, and likewife filled with them. The paintings frill remaining in this Villa are beautiful — the hot and cold baths almoft entire — the kitchen entire alfq — in mort, by examining thefe apartments, you precifely afcertain the plan and manner of ornamenting a Roman country-houfe, which feems to differ very little from mo- dern Italian Villas, except that the ftucco is infinitely finer than any we now fee, as like- wile BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 7Q8. 107 wife arc the colours and varniih laid over them. Pompeii was built and paved with lava ; carriage-wheels have worn traces in the pavement, and thefe traces are only four feet wide ; nevcrthelefs fo narrow are the Streets already excavated that there is barely room Sufficient for two carriages to pafs each other ; the Streets have raifed foot- ways on each fide three feet broad. Perhaps the whole world does not exhi- bit fo awful a fpeclacle as Pompeii ; and when it was firft difcovered, when Skele- tons were found heaped together in the Streets and houfes, when all the utenfils, and even the very bread of the poor fufrb- cated Inhabitants, were difcernible, what a fpeculation muft this ill-fated City have furniShed to a thinking mind ! — To vifit it even now is abfolutcly to live with the an- cient Romans : and when we fee houfes, Shops, furniture, fountains, Streets, carriages, and implements of hufbandry, exactly Simi- lar 108 LETTERS FROM ITALY, lar to thofe of the prefent day, we are apt to conclude that cufloms and manners have undergone but little variation for the lait two thoufand years. The cuftom of con- sulting Augurs, and that of hiring Perfons to w r eep at funerals, are ftill kept up in the mountainous and fecluded parts of Tuf- cany ; and I have frequently ^ccn the Tuf- can cattle, when deftined for {laughter, adorned with chaplets of flowers, precifcly as the Ancients ufcd to adorn their victims for facrifice. The Roman Butchers, like- wife, Hill wear the drefs, and ufe the knife of heathen facrificing Fricfts. The old llo- man cuftom of not eatins; above one re- gular meal a day, and that about the ninth hour ot Italy, (three o'clock with us), is kept up by many of the Italians : and during the month of May it is common to fee Shepherds drcilcd as in ancient times like Pan, Satyrs, &c. I do not, how- ever, mean to infer from v. hat I ha\e laid, that BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 10Q that modern Italians equal the Ancients in works of art ; for, in this refpecc, there feems as much difference between the pre- fent Race and their Forefathers, as there was between the ancient Romans and their Teachers, the Greeks. Not more than from forty to fifty fkele- tons have yet been found in Pompeii — one third of the town only, however, is yet un- covered ; but the excavations are going on daily ; and a new Street with a noble Por* tico have very lately been laid open. For a coach and four horfes to Pompeii the ufual price is eight ducats — huona-mano twelve or fifteen carlhii for two Drivers — to the Boy who curries your dinner to the Villa it is ufual to trive two carlhii — -to the Man who throws water on the paintings, one or two carlhii — to the Guide one ducat. The time ufually employed in troinf is two hours— in feeing Pompeii four hour; — and in 110 LETTERS tnoU ITALY, in returning to Portici, one hour and a half: Previous to viflting the Mufeum at Por- tici we defcended into Herculaneum. This city, according to Dionyfius of Hali- carnaflus, was founded by Hercules. The Alexandrian Chronicle mentions it's having been built fixty years before the fiege of Troy — Pliny and Florus mention it as a great and nourifhing city ; and fome Au- thors conjecture that it was the Capua whofe luxuries ruined Hannibal's Army. Dion Caflius fpeaks thus of it's deftruction, which happened on the 24th of Auguft, A. D. 79. " An incredible quantity of cinders, carried by the wind, filled air, earth, and fea, fufTocating Men, flocks, birds, and fifh, and burying two entire cities, namely, Herculaneum and Pompeii, while their Inhabitants were feated in the Theatrcs.' ,, The People of Herculaneum, however, BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1/98. Ill however, mull have had time to efcape, as very few Skeletons, and not much portable wealth have been found in thofe parts al- ready excavated. Some parts of the city are buried fixty-eight feet deep in cinders and lava, others above one hundred. This feems, from Dion Caffius, to have been the firft great eruption of Vefuvius that the Ro- mans witnerTed ; though there undoubtedly were other burning mountains in the ad- joining country from ages immemorial. The above-named Author fays, That the cinders and dull ejected by Vefuvius were carried by the wind as far as Egypt : and Giuliani afferts, That in the eruption of 1(331, the cinders were carried to Constantinople in fuch quantities as to terrify the Turks ex- tremely. The fpot where Hcrculaneum Hood, was not afcertained at the beginning of the prefent century ; but, about the year 1713, a Peafant, while finking a well at Portici, found feveral pieces of antique mar- ble, 112 LETTERS FROM ITALY, ble, which then happened to be fought for by the Prince d'Elbcuf, who was building a houfe in the neighbourhood. The Prince wanting thefe fcraps of marble to compofe a ftucco in imitation of that ufed by the Ancients, purchafed of the Peafant a right to fearch for them ; on doing which, he was recompenfed with a ftatue of Hercules, and another of Cleopatra ; this fuccefs encou- raged him to proceed with ardour, when the architrave of a marble-gate, feven Gre- cian ilatues refemblinsr Veftals, and a round Temple cncompailed by twenty-four alabaf- tcr columns without- fide, the fame number within, and like wife embellimed with ila- tues, were the reward of his labour : in fhort, the produce of thefe excavations be- came confiderable enough to attract the at- tention of Government, in confequence of which the Prince d'Elbeuf was ordered to dcfift, and all refcarches were ffiven wo till the year 1/30, when Don Carlos, on be- coming BETWEEN i;Q2 AND 17Q8. 113 coming King of Naples, wilhed to build a palace at Portici, and purchafed of the Prince d'Elbeuf, his lately erected houfe, together with the ground from whence he had taken fo many valuable antiquities. The King now made an excavation eighty ieet deep., and foon difcovered an entire City buried in the earth, together with the bed of a river, which ran through it, and even part of the water : he alio difcovered the Temple of Jupiter, containing a ilatue reputed to be gold ; and afterwards laid open the Theatre, directly over which the Peafant's well was found to have been funk. The inferiptions on the doors of the Thea- tre, fragments of bronze horfes gilt, and of the car to which they belonged (decora- tions probably of the grand entrance), togc^ ther with large numbers offtatues, columns arid pictures, were now brought to light ; neverthelefs, in the year 17O0, not more than fifty Labourers were employed in Vol. II. I making 114 LETTERS FROM ITALY, making thefe valuable excavations ; in 1 7®9 the number was reduced to ten, and in 17/6 to three or four. Refina and Portici being built immediately over Herculaneum, the Workmen could not venture to exca- vate as they would have done had the fur- face of the earth been lefs encumbered ; confequently the plans of Herculaneum, and it's edifices, are not accurate : it is, however, known that the ftreets are ftraight, having on either fide raifed foot-ways like thofe of London, and being paved with the fame kind of Java as that which is now thrown up by Vefuvius. The mofl confi- derable edifice yet difcovered is a Forum or ChaJcidkum — this building fcems to have been a rectangular court, two hundred and twenty-eight feet long, and encompaffed with a portico fupported by forty-two co- lumns ; it was paved with marble, and adorned with paintings — the portico ot en- trance wa? compofed of five arcades orna- mented BETWEEN 1792 AND 17Q8. 115 merited with equeftrian ftatues of marble, two of which, namely, the famous Balbi, are preferred. Oppofite to the entrance, and elevated upon three fteps, was the ftatue of the Emperor Vefpafian, and on either fide a figure in a curule chair : in the wall were niches adorned with paintings, and bronze ftatues of Nero and Germanicus ; there likewife were other bronze and mar- ble ftatues in the portico. This Forum joined by means of a colonade to two tem- ples, in form rectangular, and one of them one hundred and fifty feet long — the inte- rior part of thefe was ornamented with co- lumns, frefcos, and inferiptions in bronze ; and near theTemples is mi open Theatre, large enough to contain ten thouland Spectators. The front of the ftage feems to have been decorated with columns, ftatues, and other ornaments in fculpturc. The profcenmum was found entire, and is one hundred and thirty feet long. Part of the ftage, and tho I 2 bafe 116 LETTERS FROM ITALY, bafe of one of the columns of flowered ala- barter, with which it was adorned, were likewife difcovered; and in front of the ftage, according to Dc la Lande, were bronze ftatucs of the Mufcs. Fragments alfo were found of feveral bronze horfes, fuppofed to have decorated the wall which terminated the feats. This fpacious Thea- tre appears to have been lined with Parian marble, and built about the fame time with that at Verona after the defign of Numi- fius. The houfes hitherto excavated in Herculancum are found to have been ufu- ally paved with bricks three feet long and fix inches thick, and the walls of the rooms were chiefly painted in tempera. The gene- rality of the People do not feem to have had glazed windows, though fome excellent plate-glafs has been found in Herculancum, and may be ieen in the Mufcum at Portici. The excavations at Herculaneum are now fo much filled up, that it is fcarcely worth a Traveller's BETWEEN 1/92 AND 17Q8. 117 a Traveller's while to defcend into them ; part of the Theatre, however, may ftill be feen ; but, as a model of the whole is placed in the Mufeum at Portici, and as the air of Herculaneum is heavy and damp almoft to be dangerous, Perfons with weak lungs Jhould on no conjt deration go down. MUSEUM OF PORTICI. In order to fee this collection of all the moil valuable ftatues, paintings, vafes, &c. which were found in Herculaneum, Pom- peii, and Stabia, it is neceflary to obtain a permiffion of the King, through the medium of your ambaiTador ; and this permiffion en- titles you to admittance for one year ; every day, fejtas excepted, from nine till twelve in the forenoon, and from three till five or fix in the afternoon. The lower-rooms of the Mufeum, which contain the Paintings, are damp and cold — the upper apartments, which contain the bronze Statues, Vafes, &c. are tolerably warm. Each floor has a I 3 Cujhdi, 118 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Cujlodi, and both thefe Gentlemen expeft fix carlini. * Court below flairs— Two Horfes' * As Strangers are not allowed to take minutes of the paintings, &c. in this Mufeum, it is impomble to give an accurate lift of the contents of each room ; I will therefore endeavour to recollect and mention the raoft ftriking things ; at the fame time adding a further account of the paintings, collected from en- gravings which have been publifhed by royal autho- rity. The paintings are all in tempera ; and judging from the beauty of the compofition, and the unfkilfulnefs of the execution, it is probable that many of them arq copies done by common Houfe-Painters from the mofl renowned pictures of antiquity. The compofition of the Bacchantes, Mufes, and other fmall figures, is faid to be fo exquifite, that were an Artift to fludy for years he could not change one fold in the drapery to any advantage ; and the execution is faid to be fo bad, that more than an hour could not have been em- ployed upon each figure. Anti-rooms below-Jlairs — bronze Statues. Apart- ments which contain the Paintings — the fubjc&s of the mofl celebrated paintings are fuppofed to be — ■ Dido abandoned by ^neas ! — a clomeftic rcpaft — the feven days of the week, reprefented by the feven planets, beaming with Saturday, (namely, Saturn clothed in yellow, and holding a fcythe — Sunday, Apollo with a whip, like a Charioteer — Monday, Diana BETWEEN 1/02 A^D 1/Q3. lift Horfes' Heads in bronze — and, under an arch of the Royal Palace, on the right-hand fide Diana with white robes and a fceptre — Tuefday, Mars armed — Wednefday, Mercuiy with a winged bonnet fattened under his chin — Thurfday, Jupiter in red without his thunder — and Friday, Venus in white, with a crown of rofes on her head, and a winged Love by her fide) — Thcfeus with the Minotaur dead at his feet — Hercules and Telephus — Tclephus fuckied by a deer, or Latinus, Ion of Faunus, King of the Abori- gines, an allegorical painting relative to the origin of the Romans — the Centaur Chiron teaching Achilles toftiike the lyre, afcribed to Parrh alius, though more probably copied from a work of that Artift ! — Her- cules flrangling the ferpents fent by Juno to defhoy him — Iphigenia difcovering Oreftes — Oreftes and Pylades chained, and conducted by the Soldiers of King Thoas before the itatue of Diana — a parrot drawing a car, and a grafshopper driving, thought to be a copy from Zeuxis, who was famous for thefe whimfical fubjedts ! — a Faun careffing a Bacchante — fmall pictures of Rope-dancers, Bacchantes, &c. ! one of whom holds a mufical inflrument uted by the Neapolitans to this day — a Bacchante carried off by a Centaur — another Centaur carrying oiFa young Man — Apollo and the Mufes ! — two outlines upon marble, the one rcprefents 'J "hefeus killing the Centaur, the other female figures with their names written over them ; this ftyle of drawing is fuppoled to be very an- I 4 ci! 120 LETTERS FROM ITAL^, fide as you quit the Mufeum, Is the cele- brated equeftrian Statue or' Marcus Nonius Balbus, cient — fmall paintings rcprefenting Children engaged in various occupations — animals — birds — flihes — ■ fruits, &c. — One of thefe apartments contains the model of the Theatre of Herculaneum. Apartments up-Jiairs — thefe rooms are floored with marbles and mofaic-pavements found in Herculaneum and Pom- peii — they contain — bronze vafes of exquifite work- manfhip inlaid with filver ! — inftruments for facrifice, among which is a brum fuppofed to have been ufed in fprinkling holy water, and precifely like what the Roman-Catholics ufe now — a lefiijicrnium, or couch- for the Gods, compofed of bronze inlaid with filver ! — a bronze altar — a curule chair of bronze, found in the Theatre at Herculaneum — bronze tripods, one of which is particularly beautiful ! — fantaftic lamps out of number — a lanthern— vafes of terra-cota, lomc of which are as thin as the flighted glafs — inftruments of hufbandry, like thofe now ufed in Italy — bells for cattle — chirurgical inilruments, but not one lancet — a bronze mirror — ftylcs, pens of cedar- wood, a cafe for the ftylcs, inkflands, with ink in them — tablets — letters for ftamping bread, &c. which muft have been •ufed in a manner fo nearly like priming, that one wonders fuch an invention mould not have occurred to the Ancients — nails, ferews, locks, keys, latches, bolts, hinges, &c. much like thofe in prefent ufe — dice, fome of them loaded — inilruments of mufic — children?,' BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 121 Bulbus, jun. faid to be the mod perfect work of it's kind yet discovered ; it is of Greek childrens' tops — a bronze toy reprefenting a one-horfe chaife, the form limilar to a Warrior's car — tickets for the Theatre — glafs, lb me of which is as clear and good as our's — utenfils for the baths, among which are knives to fcrape off the perfpiration from the fkin, elegant eilence-bottles, &c. variety of feales, weights, and meafures; the pound feems, like that of Naples, to have been between ten and eleven ounces ; many of the weights are beautifully ornamented with heads, &c. — a kitchen completely furnifhed with bronze utenfils, chiefly lined with filver, marble mor- tars, an iron gridiron, a varietv of elegant bronze moulds for paltry, 6cc. — portable bronze fomcaux, re- markably convenient — bronze boilers — cimdelabres, near live feet high, and particuiarlv elegant — combs, a thimble, rouge, rings, necklaces, ear-rings, brace- lets, pins for the hair — ornaments, called bulla;, worn by young Patricians till thev were permitted to alTumc the toga — coins, intaglios, and cameos — filver cups and faucers — knives ofgoodflcel — gold plate — filver fpoons, but no forks — various eatables retaining their form though fcorched to a cinder, namely, corn, flour, bread, apye in it's baking-pan, wheat, peas, almonds, dates, beans, nuts, figs, grapes, eggs, f.ih, oil, and wine — lace made entirely of gold — burnt linen, burnt nets — colours lor painting — armour, i'o heavy that the itrongeit modem Man would fink under half it's weicht LETTERS FROM ITALY, Greek marble ! ! ! Oppofitc to this ftatue is U.u* oi M. N. Balbus, fen. which was found in weight — a fword and fhield — near 800 manufcripts fo burnt that it is fcarcely poflible to unroll them (Per- sons who vifit the Mufeum about nine or ten in the morning, may lee the procefs of unrolling thefe manu- fcripts.) Some of the moft celebrated flatues and bufts are — a drunken Faun repofing on a fkin of wine — Mercury fcated I ! ! — two Wreftlers — a fleeping Faun — a fmall bronze cqucftrian ftatue, fuppofed to be Alexander and Bucephalus — bufts of Plato, -Scipio, »Seneca, and Ptolemy — feveral ttatues and lamps unfit to be publicly cxpofed, are fo placed as not to be feen, unlefs enquired for. FURTHER DESCRIPTION OF THE PAINTINGS. A female Centaur with a Nymph (Zeuxis is fup- poled to have invented female Centaurs) — a Centaur teaching a Youth to play on the lyre — a Centaurcfs with a young Man, fhc holds a cymbal of gilt-bronze, the thrones of Venus and Mars, with their attributes, are in the fame piclure ! — Boys making wine ; this painting exhibits an ancient wine-prefs — Boys en- gaged in other occupations — a naval combat, ill done, but curious, becaufe it fhevvs the ancient galleys, and the mode of fighting them ! — another picture of gal- leys — a landfcape with trees and a temple, in the cen- tre of which laft is a buckler ornamented with Mc- dufa's head ; it being an ancient cuftom to fufpend vo- tive BETWEEN 1792 AND ] ; ()8. 123 in a broken ftate, and has therefore been reftored ; it is faid, however, ftili to pofTeis great merit, and likewife is of marble. The tive bucklers in public edifices — an Egyptian land- fcape — a crocodile-hunt — crocodiles and hippopota- mufes, (from the latter, fays Pliny, Man learnt the art of bleeding himfelf, as this animal, when too full of blood, prefles it's foot againft pointed reeds, by which means the operation is performed) — Venus feated between Pallas and Juno — the education of Bacchus ! (fuppofed to be the copy of a fine original) —Pan wreftling with Cupid — Ariadne abandoned by Thefcus — Ariadne fleeping, vifitcd by Bacchus — Caf- fandra (ought out by Apollo, or Tphegenia ready foe facrifice ! (fuppofed to be the copy of a fine original; — a Woman offering at the Ihrine of Bacchus — Marfyas vanquifhed by Apollo — a concert of Bacchantes — a garden — a religious ceremony, probably in honour of Bacchus — another Bacchanalian ceremony, in which three figs are offered to the God, the number three being facred and typical among the Heathens — other Bacchanalian ceremonies — a tyger playing with a fer- pent — two figures, the one a Woman, the other a Greek Poet, or Philofopher — two young Men crown- ed — an Hermaphrodite — hunts of animals — a female figure with wings, fuppofed to be either Hebe, dr Victory ; fhe holds a bafin and a vafe ! — a flying figure of Victory holding a buckler ! — a facrifice to Pallas — a combat between two young Satyrs and two goats — Genii 124 LETTERS FROM ITALY, The Royal Palace, at Portici, is large and .pleafantly fituatcd : the apartments are paved with ancient mofaics.* The Genii hunting — Venus riling from the waves on a fea- horie—a landfcape— architectural decorations — a gar- den, (it is curious to obferve in this, and other pic- tures, that the ancient Roman Gardens were exaftly what Italian gardens are now) — feveral fea-views — tour pictures in one, namely, a hare and a fowl, a pheafant and two apples, three birds and fome muih- rooms, two partridges and three fifh. (The hare, by ancient Epicures, was deemed the bcfl quadruped, and the thrum the bell bird.) — Two pictures of various requifites for a table, in four compartments — two pic- tures rcprelenting Egyptian ceremonies — Apollo feat- ed — Bacchus Handing — Endymion and Diana — Phrixus and Helle — Flora and Cloris — Ulyfles and Penelope — Venus befet by Perfualion and Indigence —two pictures of Leda receiving Jupiter as a fvvan — Xemefis — the Graces — Mercury with the Goddefs Mania — Diana ! — an hillorical painting of a Prince receiving an AmbalTador — Meleagcr and his Wife, with Cleopatra behind — Phaedra and Mippolitus — a Nereid on a fea-horfc — a Nymph mounted on a fea- montler — a Nereid embracing a lea-bull — a Centaur galloping * Here likcvvife are four antique paintings upon marble, on one of which, the name of the Painter. Alexander of Athens, is difcoverable. BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND l/QS. 125 The Gardens belonging to the Palace are large, and contain a fpot called La Favor It a, in galloping — the Satyr Marfyas with the young Olym- pus — Silenus, or the Indian Bacchus, with a Genius and a female Figure — an allegorical representation of Scylla, the famous promontory of Calabria — a PriefT- efs — a Citharift, fuppofed to be Saphonear, vvhofe left ear is a flower, the flgn of a Lady of plcafure — two Youths, the one imagined to be Hylois, who was run away with by two Nymphs ; the other, probably, Ganymede, holds a fan of peacock's feathers, which fans were ufed by the great People of antiquity to chafe away flies, and are flill carried in grand procef- fionsat Rome, to keep thole troublefome little infects from annoying the Pope — an old Man featcd, fuppof- ed to be a Cynick— a young Man, fuppofed to be one of the Gymnafters — a Woman naked to the thighs, looking at herielf in a mirror of yellow metal. (Pli- ny, however, mentions mirrors of green glafs, the lirli of which was made at Sydon. Nero had an emerald mirror : the Roman Ladies are faid to have always canied thefe mirrors about them ; they likewife uicd falfe hair, falfe teeth, falfe eve-brows, and eye-lame?, pomatum, rouge, and white paint.) In the laft-named picture is a young man, naked likewife to the thighs — two young Women half-draped, and in appearance Bacchantes' — a young Woman with light hair, the fign of a Lady of plcafure ! — three pictures of Dan- cers '- a Bacchante bearing offerings to Bacchus ! — • tWQ 126 iETTERS FROM iTALY, in which the prefent King has placed fvvings, and wooden-horfes, or hurly-burlics, (fuch two paintings reprefenting Genii with fyrhbols rela- tive to Bacchanlian feafts and ceremonies (It appears that the Ancients warned their hands before eating, and drank out of glaffes) — Bacchus \ — Bacchus of the Indies — a trophy hung upon a tree— the Grecian horfe brought into Troy, the tomb of Heftor with an urn upon a column, being introduced in this pifture — markets, fhops, and fchools held under porticos, as was the cuftom in Greece and Rome — another painting of the fame kind — a two- wheeled carriage? for the conveyance of baggage with j^oflillion on one of the nodes, a mule faddled, and a blind Man conducted by a dog — a Man riding one, and guiding three horfes — (the Romans frequently ufed to ride two and even four horfes at once, leaping from one to the other with wonderful agility) — a Woman with aftylus and tablets — a Poet crowned with ivy holding a fcroll -—a Woman with a tablet and ftylus, another Woman behind who appears to be her Confident — Hercules *and Eurifthes — athletic exercifes — Pfyche with the wings of Loves and butterflies — two fragments, one rcpreieniing a Woman with the horn of plenty ; the other Pan, Bacchus, and a Youth in a Phrygian bonnet— five Etrufcan Prions, three of whom have tiaras on their heads, the high-Prieft's being gold — the worfhip of Venus at Paphos — a landfcape — fruits — grotefque architecture fomewhat in the Chinefe flyle and BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1/98* 127 (luch as are to be feen at our fairs,) for his own particular amufcment and that of his Nobility. and fomewhat in the Egyptian — Jupiter feated on the clouds, crowned with oak, and ready to launch the thunder, the eagle at his fide, Love behind, endea- vouring to check his fury ; round him is a rain-bow, which, in the opinion of the Ancients, announced wars and tempefts — a Prieitefs — a Youth with a porta- ble table, called anclabria, and Jupiter terminal — a chapel with a ftatue of Mars — Venus on the fea re- pofingin a (hell — Leda a Bacchante, and a Citharift in bed — Hercules killing a lion — the rape of Hylas by three Nymphs — Perfeus and Andromeda after the deliverance of the latter — Bacchus and Ariadne on their nuptial bed — Peace, or Peleus, fuppofed to have invented the poniard — Comus — a Youth in a War- rior's car, drawn by unicorns — three Catiefores, or PrieftefTes of Minerva, who carried on their heads bafkets filled with things deftined for facrifice — two Females naked, and a Man draped — a facrifice — four half-length figures— a PriciTefs and a Man in red, barefoot — a Bacchanalian ceremony — a female fi- gure with a cornucopia — two PrieftefTes of Bacchus— and two of Venus — Endymion fleeping, attended by Genii — head of a Woman — a Female in a Spartan drefs — a Female-Dancer, being one of the Cerno- phores — Genii and fruit — a Woman feated with two lyres and a garland, the lyre being lignificant of harmony, union, and conjugal love ■ in the fame pic- ture 128 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Nobility. During autumn, when the Royal Family rcfide at Portici, La Favonia is numeroufly ture is a Dancer, one of thofe, perhaps, who ufed to exhibit naked in the Theatres — Apollo and Daphne ■ — Bacchus conducting Ariadne to Heaven — the Satyr Marfyas; (nearly fpoilt) — two houfehold Gods with Phrygian caps on their heads, and armed with the pilum of the Latins — other houfehold Gods — a Bac- chante crowned with ivy, defending herfelf faintly againft the advances of a Youth — a theatrical repre- fentation of a Man in a fcofFing-maik, making horns and Ihewing them to a Woman who hides her face ; this was thecultom of the Greeks— two paintings of theatrical reprefentations, in the latter of which is a Youth in a halfmafk, the only thing of the kind yet difcovered, all the other maiks being comic, tragic, or fatiric— three paintings with maiks, &c. — a paint- ing much damaged, fuppofed to have reprefented the green-room of a theatre-— -a theatrical reprefentation — a Poet, fuppofed to be yEfchylus, dictating a drama to the Tragic Mufe — a concert — a player's drerTing- room — a damaged pi&ure of two Youths with a horfe — a facriiice — two pictures reprefenting grotefque architecture — a dancing Faun and a female figure, perhaps the Goddcfs Fatua — two PriefteiTes — Victory — Pfyche and a winged Genius with a ilioe on his head, and another in his hand, both made like our's ; this painting is nearly fpoilt — an Egyptian ftory, per- haps allegorical of the love of Anthony and Cleo- patra BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 ?Q8. 12Q numeroufly attended, and enlivened with bands of mufic. Sunday is the beft day for Strangers to go to this infantile amufe~ ment. Portici is between three and four miles from Naples. patra — a mofaic, reprcfenting perfons and animals ! — "another, reprefenting an ancient ballet J — Nymphs and Genii — a triumphal arch — irregular architecture — a building with a Woman {landing before it almoft naked — (it was the Etrufcan cuftom for female Slaves to ferve ai i-epafts with fcarce any covering) — a frag- ment of a building, and a young Man on horfeback holding a lance with a button at the end — the infide of a temple with a Matron or Prieftefs — another building with a young W nan reading — Perfeus and Andromeda — Heiione delivered from a Sea-monfter by Hercules in view of Troy — Daedalus — Diana, Apollo, and a combat between two Youths and a dragon — the entrance of a Temple, with two vafes for the purifying water — an Egyptian Temple — architec- tural fragments — the worfhip of Ofiris — Egyptian architecture— a carlcatura of the Caefars, reprefenting /Eneas with his Father and Son as Priapules with dogs' heads. Drawing in carlcatura i'eems to have been common among the Ancients, who frequently com- pared Men to, and reprelented them under the form of, beafls. Vol. Jf. K xxcur- 130 LETTERS FROM ITALY, EXCURSION TO VESUVIUS AND TORRE- DEL-GRECO. We hired a carnage to, go to Refina, which is juft beyond Portici, took cold meat, bread, and a bottle of wine, and fet out at day-break. When arrived at Refina, we difeharged our carriage, giving direc- tions, however, that it mould meet us again in feven hours, and convey us to Torre-del- Greco, (which is about one mile from Re- fina), and from thence home to Naples. This done, we enquired for Bartolommeo, the Cicerone of the Mountain, and ordered him to provide us with mules and guides, and to pay them himfelf, that we might not be importuned for more than the juft price, namely, for eery mile four carlini, and for every guide four carlini. If, however, you alcend the Mountain on aj£/?<2-day, the price of a mule and guide is ten BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 131 ten carlini. Perfons who like the water may go in a boat to Portici for three or four carlini, (leaving directions that the fame, or fome other boat, may be in waiting for them an hour before it grows dark,) and then walk to Refina. The time ufually employed in going from Naples to the Crater of Vefuvius and back again, is from feven to eight hours. At Refina we got upon mules, who carried us to the Crofs, from whence we walked to the Crater, aided by our Guides. (A ftout Hick and a pair of boots are like wife necef- fary appendages to this excurfion.) After having examined the Crater, and then re- frefhed ourfelves at the Hermitage upon Vefuvius, we defcended to Refina, where our carriage was in waiting to convey us to Torre-del-Greco ; or, more properly fpeak- ing, to the ruins of that town, which, dur- ing the fummer of 1 79-I, was destroyed in the following manner. Vefuvius had for K 2 funic 132 LETTERS FROM ITALY, fome time ccafcd to vomit fire and fmokc as ufual ; a circumftance that generally pre- fages mifchief ; and on the morning of the 13th of July, at half pail: three o'clock, the Inhabitants were alarmed by a fudden and violent fhock of an earthquake, which was thrice repeated, continuing each time about three minutes and as many feconds. This firit calamity produced a general con- sternation, infomuch that People fled from their houfes into their gardens, and from thence again to the fea-fide, where they patted the remnant of the night in dreadful apprehension. Next morning, proceffions of Men, Women and Children, were feen barefoot in the Streets of Naples, with di- shevelled hair, proceeding to the Cathedral, to implore the protection of S. Gennaro. From Thurfday till Sunday the weather was tempcituous, the air hot, loaded with vapours, and, at intervals, Suddenly darken- ed for fome minutes ; during which period there BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1 798. 133 there were feveral flight fhocks of an earth- quake, attended by a rumbling found like diftant thunder. On Monday morning, about two o'clock, the Inhabitants were again alarmed by a noife fo violent, that it refembled a continual difcharge of cannon, when, in a moment, burft forth a vaft vol- cano, not in the Crater on the fummit of Yefuvius, but towards the middle of the mountain on the weftern fide. The explo- fion made every edifice tremble in Torre- del-Greco, which is only five horizonal miles from this new volcano, at whofe mouth iiTued a column of denfe fmoke that continually mounted and encreafed in mag- nitude, till it formed itfelf into the fhape of an immenfc pine. This column was fometimes clearly diftinguifhed, and, at others, obfeured by cinders and lava ; it continued augmenting rapidly in circum- ference, till at length it began to incline downwards, when, from the quantity of K 3 denfe 134 LETTERS FROM ITALY, denfe matter which compofed the column, being much heavier than the air, the for- mer, of courfe, fell to the ground. Torrents of flaming lava of an awefully portentous magnitude now poured down the moun- tain, principally in two directions, one ftream of about a mile in breadth, bending it's deflructive courfe towards Torre-del- Greco, a town faid to contain 18,000 fouls, the other taking the direction of Refina ; while feveral fmall rivulets of liquid fire were obferved in divers places. Torre-del- Greco foon fell a prey to the lava, which, in it's progrefs, dcfolated the whole hill leading down from Vefuvius, fweeping away every houfe, fo that the terrified In- habitants were compelled to abandon their all, and take refuge in Naples. At length the lava, after three hours' devaluation, ran into the fea, on whofe banks, for one-third of a fquare mile, it raifed itfelf a bed fifteen or twenty palms above the level of the wa- ter. BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1 ~Q8. 1 So ter, and as much, if not more, above the level of the ftreets of Torre-dcl-Greco. The reflexion from this torrent of lava illumi- nated the whole city of Naples, and filled it's Inhabants with dread ; while the other torrent, which fbwed towards Refina, on arriving at the gate, divided itfelf into three ftreams, one running between the gate and the Convent de Padri Francefcani, the fe- cond to the Piazza, and the third to the Convent del Carmine, near Torre- del- An- nunziata. Wherever the lava ran it covered the country with a cruft, from twenty to thirty palms deep : in and about Retina it left, for a fhort time, fome few ifolatcd buildings, namely, the Palace Brancaccia, the Church of Marinari, and the Convent de Francefcani ; but thefe foon caught lire, and five Women, with one old Man, after vainly ringing their bells for amilancc, lav- ed themfelves by flight. The Palace Carac- ciolo now fell a prey to the flames, a.- uid K 1 every 130 LETTERS FROM ITALY, every other building in the vicinity of Re- fina, till the whole furrounding plain exhi- bited one vaft fepulchre of lava. The town of Torre-del-Greco likewife was completely buried, fome few tops of the highefl build- ings excepted, while every part of the coun- try through which the lava ran became an abfolute defert, the largeft trees being thrown down, the houfes razed, and the ground, for many miles diftant, covered with cinders, which lay about one finger deep in Naples, where they fell fo fait, in the flreets that People were obliged to de- fend themfelves againfr. them with um- brellas. On the l6th of July, the air was fo denfe as almofr. totally to obfeure the Mountain ; but, on the 1 /th, the fire made itfelf new channels, which circumilance might probably be the prefervation of many fine buildings on the fide of Refina, and even of La Favor it a, The BETWEEN 1792 AND I798. 137 The above particulars were publifhed at Naples in 1 794 ; and now, in 1797? Refina and Torre-del-Greco furnifh a speculation little lefs curious than Herculaneum and Pompeii. Many houfes ftill remain encir- cled with, and buried two ftories deep in lava ; many more have been excavated and rebuilt upon their former foundations ; though the lava ftill continues fo hot in feveral places as to kindle a torch : while the poor cottagers, whofe all was deftroyed by the eruption, are now become Cicerones to the enquiring Traveller, whom they in- form of every little circumftance relative to the chaos by which he is furroundcd. In fhort, whether one would wifli to examine the wonders of the mountain, or to fee in what manner fo many cities have been de- molifhed by this dangerous neighbour, our curiofity cannot fail of being, gratified at Kcfina and Torre-dcl-Greco, Invalids 138 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Invalids Jliould not attempt to afcend Vefu- vius, but content themfelves with thejight of the two loft-named Towns. We gave to Bartolommeo, the Cicerone of the Mountain, twenty carlini. I cannot difmifs this fubject without mentioning a very extraordinary circum- flance which occurred at Pienza, near Ra- dicofani, juft before the deftrucTion of Tor- re-del-Greco. Mr. Santi, ProfefTor of Na- tural Hiftory at Pifa, refided at Pienza when this circumftance happened : and to him I w r as obliged for the following particulars, which may ferve to refcue many ancient Hiftorians from the reproach of credulity. On the lOth of June, a denfe and black ifh cloud was difcovered at a great height above the horizon, coming from the fouth-eaft, that is, in the direction of Ve- fuvius, which may be about two hundred horizontal miles diftant from Pienza. From this height the cloud was heard to hTue noifes BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1/Q8. IZQ noifes like the difcharge of feveral batteries of cannon ; it then burft into flames, at which moment fell a mower of ftones for feven or eight miles round, while the cloud gradually vanifhed. Thefe ftones are vol- canic, being compofed of greyifh lava, rc- fembling what is found on Vefuvius ; and Mr. Santi, who took infinite pains to in- vestigate this phenomenon, is perfuaded that the cloud rofe from Vefuvius, which was, at that moment, difgorging fires whofe force and effects cannot be calculated : it could not have rifen from Radicofani, be- caufe, though this mountain is one con- tinued mafs of volcanic rock?, which be- fpeaks it the offspring of fubterranean fire ; and though it has been fometimes vifited by dreadful earthquakes, frill, neither hif- tory nor even tradition records it's having ejected flames, fmoke, or vapour, at any period whatfoever, excur- 140 LETTERS FROM ITALY, EXCURSION TO P^ESTUM. We hired an eafy ftrong Voiturin's car- riage, with four flout horfes, and articled with our Voiturin that he mould fend for- ward a relay of horfes to take us from Sa- lerno to Pasftum. We fet out at fix in the morning, drove to Salerno, in diftance thirty- miles, favv the ancient Temple of Nocera, and the beautiful country about Salerno, celebrated by the Poets of the Auguftan age, flept at the laft mentioned Town, and next day, as soon as it was light, proceeded to Pasflum, in diftance thirty miles, during the lafr, five of which we found the road bad. We took a cold din- ner, wine, bread, knives; and forks, in our carriage, and dined in one of the Temples. Pasftum, fuppofcd to be the ancient Po/fi- "donla of the Greeks, is celebrated by Virgil for it's rofes which bloomed twice in a year. Here are fcately ruins of three Doric Temples, the BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 1/98. 141 the moft ancient, it is imagined, in the yet known world. Thefe venerable and in- terefting remains of Grecian magnificence, after being long forgotten, were difcovered in 1 755, by a young painter of Naples, who once more brought them into public notice. The largefr. Ruin fecms to contain a temple within a temple, and is orna- mented by two rows of fluted pillars, formed of a compoiition not unlike fine wooden tubes, cemented by fmall particles of ftone. The inner-temple confuted of two ftories, though only two pillars be- longing to the upper-ftory now remain. The City '-Walls may ftill be traced, their form feems to have been nearly fquare, and they are broad enough to admit two carriages abreafh The Gates, and three of the Toners, are likewife difcoverable ; two of the laft being in ruins, the other per- iect. The temples of Pasftum were creeled before thole of Athens, or any other city of 142 LETTERS FROM ITALY, of what is now called Greece. After din- ner we went back to Salerno, and next morning returned to Naples. Perfons who do not object to the fea, will find the following a flill more conve- nient way of vifiting Parftum : Dine early, hire a carriage, and drive to Vitri, where the inn is tolerably comfortable ; lleep there, firft making your bargain with a boatman of the place to fet out for Paeflum at day- break the next morning. A boat generally colls one ducat, and every Waterman four car/in: — it is advifable to have eight or ten Watermen. Take a cold dinner in the boat, dine at Pasflum, and return to Vitri in the evening ; flcep there, and go to Naples next day. The diflance from Na- ples to Vitri is computed to be twenty-five miles — from Vitri to Par flu m, thirty. LETTER BETWEEN 1792 AND 1708. 143 W LETTER XXII. Naples , September 179/. EXCURSION TO BAIA, &C. E fet out at nine in the morning, having previoufly hired a clofe car- riage, for eight hours, to convey us to Poz- zuoli, and wait there till we had taken the ufual round. We then drove through the Grotto of Paufilipo, drawing up our glaffes while we paffed that part neareft to Pozzu- oli. Mention is made of this Grotto by Strabo, Seneca, Pliny, &c. ; but by whom it was formed, feems uncertain ; it's length is computed to be 231 G feet, its breadth 22, and its height, in the moft lofty part, 8Q. II. We obferved the Ifland of Nifida, for- merly Nefis, where Marcus Brutus had a Villa, mentioned by Cicero in his letters to / jus : and III. By 144 LETTERS FROM ITALY, III. By the way, and^on the right of the high-road, we faw the torrent of lava that flowed from the Solfaterra when an active volcano. IV. At Pozzuoli we engaged a Cicerone, (a Man named Tobias is deemed the beft) bidding him hire a boat for Baia, Mife- num, &c. and whilir. it was getting ready, we vifited the Temple dedicated to the Sun, 'under the name of Jupiter- Ser-dpis (holy Apis), a magnificent Edifice, built in the Auguftan age. This Temple was partly thrown down and completely buried by an earthquake ; but fortunately difcovered be- tween fifty and fixty years fince, by a pea- fant, who efpied the top of one of the pillars half a foot above ground ; in con- sequence of which, excavations were be- gun, and the Temple found, almoft en- tire : indeed, had thofe parts which were thrown down by the earthquake been re- ftored to their proper places, this building would BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 /#3. X4<5 would have exhibited the mofl: perfect, and one of the nobleft vefiiges of antiquity yet difcovered — But, alas ! the Kings of Spain and Naples, inftead of reftoring, or even leaving things in the ftate they found them, have taken away pillars, ftatues, all, in fhort, that they deemed worth removing ; neither have they excavated fufficicntly ; as the front of the principal entrance, and, perhaps, great part of the temple, is ftill buried. Enough, however, meets the eye to form one of the moft interefting objects imaginable. V. We embarked, and patted between the piers of the ancient Mole of Pozzuoli, to which Caligula joined his bridge of boats, as mentioned by Seneca, &c. VI. We landed at Mifenum. The Villa of CaiusMarius ftood uoon the extremity of this Promontory. Mifenum was the prin- cipal harbour of the Romans in the Tyrr- hene lea, as Ravenna was in the Adriatic ; Vol. II. L and 1-40 LETTERS FROM ITALY, and in the former of thefe ports Pliny the elder commanded the Roman fleet, when there happened that eruption -pf Vefuvius which deftroyed Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabia. VII. We faw the Grotto Tragojiare, a vaft Refervoir under the Promontory. VIII. The Fiih-ponds of Lucullus, exca- vated under the weft-fide of the Promon- tory. IX. The Theatre of Mifenum ; part of the Corridors, the declivity for the feats, and a little of the projeunium ftill remain ; and in the adjoining field are two fragments of the entablature. X. The Stygian Lake, for fuch, accord- ing to Virgil, is the prefent Mare-morto, or third Bafin of this Port. XI. The banks of this Bafin, called his Elyfian fields. XII. The fepulchral Monuments of Mi- fenum, We afcended to the fummit of thefc banks., BETWEEN 1702 AND 1 /Q8. 147 banks, which commands an interefting profpecl: of the Styx, &c. — adjoining are the remains of a Villa of Lucullus's, where Tiberius died. The fubftruclions of this Villa, and the celebrated Refervoir, now called the Pifchia merabile, confifting of forty- eight piers, merit notice. XIII. We went to the Villa of Horten- fius, the Contemporary and Rival of Cicero, and faw the Cento Camcrele, or Carcne dl Nerone, which were the Refervoirs of this Villa. Immediately beneath the Promon- tory are Hortcnfius's P'lJ'chii, or Fifh-ponds, the foundations of which may full be de- cerned under water. XIV. We walked through the Village of Bauli, and obferved, on both fides of the road, remains of fepulchral monument-. XV. We vifited the Villa of Agrippina. What is called // fcbulcro di A^nbp'ina. feems to have been nothing more than a corridor /:. Theatre belonging to the Villa. Ta- L 2 citus 148 LETTERS FROM ITALY, citus fays, me was privately buried here., after having been killed by order of her Son, Nero ; but the identical fpot which enclofed her remains is not afecrtained. We em- barked here, and landed at XVI. Ba'ia, to fee the Temple of Venus, circular within and octagon without, a beau- tiful ruin. Behind this Temple are Baths, now called Le Camere dl Venere — here are fome fine ftucco ornaments, and adjoining to them, the ruins of feveral public baths. XVII. We went to the Temple of Mer- cury, and the adjoining Baths. This Tem- ple is circular, with an aperture in the dome, fimilar to that of the Pantheon. XVIII. We vifited the Temple of Di- ana Ba'iana, a fine ruin ; and then embark- ing, palled under the Villa of Julius Ca^far, f tuated upon the nortji point of the Bay of Ba'ia. XIX. We landed at Nero's Villa, by the Lucrine Lake, to fee the Vapour-Baths, which BETWEEN 17g2 AND 1798. 14g which are fo hot that no Invalid mould attempt penetrating into them — the water boils an egg in two minutes. Thefe Va- pour-Baths are ufed by the Neapolitans dur- ing fummer. XX. We obferved the Lucrine Lake, celebrated by the Latin Poets for its excel- lent oyfters. XXI. Panned under Monte Nuovo, formed in the fpace of forty-eight hours, A. D. 1538, by a volcanic explofion. XXII. Vifited the Lake Avernus — this is the Tartarus of Virgil, defcribed in the Oth book of the Eneid. We obferved on its banks, the Temple of Proferpine ; after- wards palling through the Grotto of the Cumean Sibyl, which led from Tartarus to the Coxytus, Acheron, Styx, Elyiium, &c. This Grotto contains what are called the Sibyl's Baths. Agrippa opened a canal of commurri ca- tion between the Avernus and the Lucrine L 3 Lake, 150 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Lake, forming of both the Julian Port. We then returned to our boat, and failed back to Pozzuoli. We paid to our Boatmen, buona-mam? inclufivc, twenty carlini — to our Cicerone ten — at the Temple of Ser-Apis one — at the Baths of Nero three — at the Temple of Venus half a carlino — at the Temple of Mercury ditto — and at the Pifcina mirabile ditto. It is no bad fcheme to fail back from Pozzuoli to Naples, if the wind ferve. We carried a cold dinner with us when we made this excurfion, which took up eight hours. EXCURSION TO, CUMA, &C We hired a calafh* for feven hours ; fct out at nine in the morning for the gate of Pozzuoli; and v\ lien arrived there, fent for Tobias, the Cicerone, proceeding with * A clofc carriage is better for Invalids, on account of palling the Grotto of Faufilipo. him BETWEEN 1792 AND 17Q8. 251 him to the Solfaterra, where we faw the procefs of making alum, vitriol, and fal- ammoniac, from the volcanic fubflances within the crater. II. We defcended to the Amphitheatre, of which there are confiderable remains : then vifiting the ruins of the public Baths, and the adjoining Temple of Diana, which is circular within, quadrangular without, and which conftitutes part of the Baths : III. We proceeded to Campagna, and examined the fepulchral monuments of the ancient Pozzuoli, (Puteoli) which are fitu- ated alona; the Via Confularis that led from Puteoli to Cuma. Part of the ancient pave- ment ftill remains : thefe tombs are circu- lar within, and have three rows of white niches. IV. We law the Villa di Cicerone, now a wine-cellar, there being fcarcely any vef- tiges of thofe ftately porticos and fpacious gardens defcribed by Pliny. Cicero called L 4 this 152 LETTERS FROM ITALY, this Villa the Academia having here com- pofed his academic questions. Here died the Emperor Adrian, to whofe memory Antoni- nus Pius erected a temple inftead of a tomb. V. On the road to the Arco-Felice, we flopped to fee an interesting and pi&urefque view from the banks of the Lake Avernus, comprehending Monte-Nuovo, the Temple of Proferpine, the entrance into the Sibyl's Grotto, the Lucrine Lake, part of Ba'ia, Mifenum, Capri, &c. ; and between this place and the Arco-Felice, we met with traces of the Aqueduct which conveyed water to Cuma, and the neighbouring Villas. VI. We examined the Arco-Felice, or Gate of Cuma, which ferved alfo for Cita- del and Aqueduct. From its fummit, pro- vided the atmofphcre be clear, you have a tine view of the neighbouring Iflands of Ifchia, Ventoliani, Ponce, cVc. ; as alfo of the Circean Promontory. Ventoliani was the BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1-798. 153 the ancient Pandatana, whither Julia was banifhed. VII. We palTed along one of the ancient ftreets of Cuma, where are fome remains of houfes, &c. VIII. Saw the Caftle of Cuma, built in the Greek flyle, with large ftones. Wheri Alaric, King of the Weftragoths, fubdued this Country, in the fifth century, he de- pofited the fpoils of his conquefh here, as a place of ftrength. IX. Afcended the hill over the fea-fhore, where, according to Virgil, Dasdalus alight- ed after his flight from Crete, confecratcd his wings to Apollo and built a Temple, of which, however, no veftiges remain. From the fummit of this hill you have the Ache- ron towards the fouth, and about four miles to the north the Torre- di-P atria, which laft ftands on the fite of the ancient Linternum, whither Scipio Africanus retired, and where he died. Tarquin the proud died at Cuma. We J 54 tETTERS ER0M ITALY, We then returned through Pozzuoli to Naples. At the Amphitheatre we gave five grains —-at the fepulchral monuments, one carlim —and to the Cicerone, ten carllni. — We carried a cold dinner from Naples, when i^e made this excurfion. EXCURSIOX TO THE LAKE DAGITANO, &C. We hired a Calafh for four hours, drove to the Village immediately beyond the Grotto of Paufdipo, enquired for the Keeper of the Grotto del Cane, and told him we were going thither. I. However, flopping at the Lago cC Ag- nano, once the crater of a volcano, as ap- pears by its form, and likewife by the vol- canic fubilances that compofe its environs. On the banks of this Lake are fome remains of a Villa of Lucullus's, namely, the Sub- ftruclions of Baths, &c. This fplendid Ro- man opened a communication between the fc? BETWEEN 1792 AND 17Q8. 155 fea and the above named Lake, which he converted into a fifh-pond. On the Lake are thoufands of wild- fowl, the refcrved game for his Sicilian Majefty : and con- tiguous to the ruins of Lucullus's Villa are the Vapour-Baths of S. Germano, frequent- ed during fummcr, by Perfons afflicted with the rheumatifm. II. We proceeded to the Grotto del Cane, the fixed air of which throws a dog into convulsions, extinguifhes a lighted torch, and prevents a piiiol from going off. III. Went to the- PifciareUi, a rivulet of boiling water hTuing out of the foot of the cone of the Solfaterra, and, in diftance about a mile from the Lago d Agnano. The water will boil effsrs in eiffht minutes; it is ftrong- dy impregnated with alum and vitriol, the latter of which preponderates to fuch a de- gree as to produce ink when mixed with galls. Every little aperture in the earth run 'id 156 LETTERS FROM ITALY, round this hill, or white cliff, exhibits ful- phur cryftalized, fal-ammoniac, vitriol, Ike. IV. We vifited Aftroni, a romantic crater of an extinguifhed volcano, now converted into a royal hunting-park, which contains about a thoufand head of game, confuting df flags, wild-boars, and wild goats. The crater is walled round at its fummit, to pre- vent the game from efcaping, and computed to be about four miles and a half in circum- ference. The interior part exhibits folid \a.\a.,Jcorm, tnfo, pumice, and other produc- tions ufually found in active volcanos. V. We then returned towards Naples," and faw Virgil's tomb, fituated on the furii- mit of the arch of that entry to the Grotto of Paufilipo which fronts the City. Its form is a cylinder, with a dome, fupported by a fquarc bafe — within arc ten niches in which the cinviary urns were placed. The entrance looks towards the high-road; and, oppoiite to BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/Q8. 15? to the entrance, was the principal niche, where Virgil's afhes probably were deposit- ed. Addifon, without afligning any fatis- fa&ory reafon, fuppofes this not to have been the tomb of Virgil, although in con- tradiction to what may be inferred from many refpe&ablc Writers. To the Keeper of the Grotto del Cane and Vapour- Baths, we gave fix carlhii — to the Keeper of the Affcroni one carlino — and at Virgil's tomb, one carlino. EXCURSION TO CASERTA, &C. Caferta is about fixtccn miles from Na- ples, and as our party confifted of four Per- ions only, we went in a caneftra for about -fifteen carlhii, buona-mano incluilve. On arriving at Caferta, we ordered frefh horfes to take us to the AqiicduSls, which are about live miles further off, and nearly three hours mult be employed in order to fee them well, and return to Caferta. In afcending the hill We 158 LETTERS FROM ITALY, we had an extenfive and beautiful view of elmoft the whole Campagna Felice. When we came to the Aqueducts the Keeper con- dueled us along the top of them, and mew- ed us the courfe of the water at one of the turrets. Hence we defcended through the pafTages of the two higheft orders of arches, and proceeded to the large centre-arch in order to fee the inferiptions on it — after this we examined the whole of the fuperft.rucT.ure from a little diftance, and then got into our carriage, and returned to the royal Palace at Caferta. If the Court be there the roval j apartments cannot be ihewn, and, in this cafe, Travellers are obliged to content them- felves with viiiting the fouth-front, the grand ftair-cafe, the chapel, theatre, and unfinimed parts of the building. From the middle-balcony of the front which looks to- wards the gardens, there is a tolerably good view of the park, fifli-ponds, cafcade, &c. The modern ftatues arc not worth notice, — • BETWEEN 1/92 AND ] ?Q8. 15Q The Palace was built after the defigns of Vanvitelli. We went next to the Fifh- ponds, Iflands, &c. and remained a night at Caferta, in order to fee the King's filk and gauze manufactures at Sa. Leuce, as alfo the Englifh Garden. Perfons who arc admitted to the royal apartments ufually give the Keeper fix carlini — we gave the Keeper of the Theatre two carlhu — the Boatman at the Iflands in the fifh-ponds, two carl'mi — and the Keeper of the aqueducls, two carl'mi. Perfons who like to return to Naples by Capua, may fee the ruins of ancient Capua, now called Sa. Maria di Capua. The firil: objects worth notice here are a Sepulchral Monument upon the left hand, and another on the right, the Lift being low, and of a circular form, with niches. The magnifi- cent remains of the Amphitheatre, lie on the right-hand, alfo, a little out of the road — and here it is worth while to exa- mine lCO LETTERS FROM ITALY, mine what is left of the exterior wall, with the coloffal bulls in the kcy-ftoncs of the arehes — the three corridors — the four grand entries, and the declivity for the feats, flair-cafes, arena, &c. Returning to the high-road, you pafs under a ruined arch, fuppofed to be one of the Gates of ancient Capua. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF PROCEDA. Proceda, computed to be about fifteen miles from Naples, may be feen to great advantage, and without rifque, in the fol- lowing manner, provided the weather be ftill and warm. Hire a boat at Naples with five or fix Rowers, take a cold dinner, bread, wine, knives, forks, fait, oil, vine- gar, &c. and fct out as early in the morning as poffiblc, that you may avoid the heat of the fun. After doubling the Cape of Pau- filipo, you pafs a beautifully piclurefque Hermitage, and likewife fee the ruins of many BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 7Q8. J6i many ancient buildings ; and amongft others thofe commonly called the fchools of Vir- gil, but conjectured to have been a Villa belonging to Lucullus. You then leave Nicida (on which Ifland is the Lazaretto), Pozzuoli, Monte-Nuovoy the Lucrine Lake, and Bam, to your left, and paffing under the Promontory of Mifenum (by which means you have a fme view of this great harbour of the Romans), you arrive at Pro- ceda in two hours and a half, or, at moil: in three hours. As foon as you are landed, walk up to the Royal Palace, a large moot- ing-fcat, almoit unfurnifhed,but delightfully fituated on the fummit of the llland, and commanding fuch a view as beggars de- fcription. In this Palace, which is always cool, you are permitted to dine, the C'. ... finding you a table-cloth, plates, dil and a machine for icing water, the ice to fill which may eafilv be procured in the Town. From the landing-place to Vol. J I M Pa Lilt- 162 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Palace is a fhort mile ; and, if you vint Proceda on Sunday, or on any other fijia, you will be recompenfed from the fatigue of walking through the town by a view of its Inhabitants, the Women being dreffed in the Greek ftyle, while the Men wear Phrygian caps, and waiftcoats ornamented with buttons- refembling little bells, fuch as the Turks now wear. The People of Proceda are rich, and it is faid they main- tain the Grecian cuftoms as well as drefs — they have one remarkable quality, inftead of importuning ftrangers for money, and never being fatisfied give what you may, as is common in the environs of Naples, they mew you every thing worth feeing, allow you to examine their drelTcs, and appear fully recompenfed by the pleafure of ailing you queftions. This Ifland is famous for grapes, figs, and wine ; the houfes are flat- roofed, with terraces on the top — the flair- cafes chiefly on the out fide of the houfes. Allow BETWEEN 1792 AND 17Q8. lOS Allow three hours for returning home ; and if your Boatmen carry your dinner to the Palace, fetch your ice, and behave well, give them five or fix car lint above the com- mon price, namely, ten or twelve carlini for the boat, and four for every Boatman. To the Cujlodi of the Palace give ten carl'mi, and four to the Ckeron& who conduces you thither. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF ISCHIA, This Iiland, computed to be twenty-four miles from Naples, is famed for its Baths, winch, during fummer, are much frequent- ed. Travellers may eafily procure accom- modation at Ifchia, and as the Ifland is large, and very piclurefque, it is worth while to pafs three or four days here. EXCURSION TO THE ISLAND OF CAPRI. As this Ifland is thirty miles diilant from Naples, and contains many antiquities worth M 2 notice, 104 LETTERS FROM ITALY, notice, it is impoffible to go and return in one day ; confecmently, the bell: fcheme is, to fet out early in the morning, fail to Ca- pri, which will take up five or fix hours, get an apartment in the Plain, at the Eng- lifh houfe, if poffible, lleep there two nights, and return to Naples on the evening of the third day. Good beds, fifh, milk, wine, and fruit, may be procured at Capri ; bread, meat, tea, coffee, fugar, and butter, it is advifeable to take from Naples. There is a packet-boat efb.blifhcd between Naples and Capri, which fails from each place every three or four days ; and Perfons who go in this boat pay a trifle, unlefs they take it to themfelvcs, which is by much the more comfortable way, and, in which cafe, the price is proportioned to the number of Rowers. Capri, anciently Caprca, is famous for having been the retiring-place of Auguftus, and the rcfidcncc, for ftveral years, of Ti- berius : BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 17Q8. lG5 berius : it contains about nine thoufand In- habitants, and two towns, Capri and Ano- Capri ; the latter being iituatcd on a vail rock, to which you afcend by above five hundred iteps. The people chiefly conilft of Mechanics, Hufbandmen, and Sailors; perfect equality reigns among them ; no- body ieems poor, but all appear induitrious. Here are three Phyficians appointed by the King to attend the People gratis ; neverthe- less, their practice is very inconiiderable, the air being fo particularly falubrious that Scarcely any maladies villi: this Ifland. The town of* Capri ilands in a beautiful and well cultivated Plain, and com Billion's Palace-, with two or three Con- vents. On the extremity of *:hc cailem Promontory are coni derable man buildings, and a moil rom li.cic prof- peel:: here, likewife, arc cavern^ once dicated to the brutal plcdiiirc • . . '. '.. ; fubtcrranean roads ; with fuch an intimity M 3 of 16G LETTERS FROM ITALY, of buildings under-ground, that one would imagine the whole Ifland had once been undermined. On the oppofite fide of Capri are ruins of a Palace and a Theatre. Im- menfe flights of quails vifit this Ifland dur- ing fummer, and are caught by the Inhabi- tants to fupply the Naples- market. Invalids Jhould by no means think of af- cending to Ano- Capri, EXCURSION TO SORRENTO. Sorrento, aciently called Syrentum, from its enchanting fituation, and perhaps the cooleft and moft healthy fummer-abode in the fbuthern part of Italy, is feventeen or eighteen miles from Naples ; and Perfons wiihing to go and return the fame day mult fet out very early in the morning, it being neeeffary to allow four hours for row- ing thither, four or five to reft the Boat- men, and four for returning. A boat thus hired will coft five or fix ducats. The Inn at BETWEEN 1/C)2 AM) 1 7Q8. 1 0/ at Sorrento is fo bad that Travellers fhould take wine and a cold dinner with them : the Town is fmall, and chiefly famous for containing the paternal rnaniion of the im- mortal Taffo, together with his bull: fixed on one corner of the houfe without-fide, and faid to be a good likenefs. Here, alfo, are the remains of an Egyptian ftatue. The Plain of Sorrento confiits of rocks and ca- verns united by bridges, with orange trees growing in every cavity, here are no car- riage-roads, or, at leaft, only one of about three miles in length ; moft of the paths be- ing very narrow, nnd fenced in by high walls: but good mules, afTes, and chaifes- a-porteur may be procured at reasonable prices ;* and, with thefe, it is cafv to afcend the mountains, "which afford the fmeit views imaginable, and arc clotlicd to their fum- * The ufual price of a mule and Guide to go v.; or eicht miles is four curlini, bu^n.i-manz inclufi-.'C- - the pr'ec of ,\ .-•'. i/'r- . : :rtiia . four. five, or fix carlini according u Llic diilanee. M 1 mil 166 LETTERS FROM ITA.LY, mits with olives, caxs, and a variety of other trees and fhrubs, larger of their kind and more healthy in their appearance than in any other part of Italy. Near Sorrento, on the Plain, is the Village of S, Agnello, in going to which place you pafs the lite of an ancient Temple dedicated to Venus, where, frill grow myrtles fo large that one could almoft fancy them as old as the building. Beyond S. Agnello is Meta, another Village in the Plain of Sorrento ; and to the left of Sor- rento lies MaiTa, which feems once to have been a confiderable Town, and where the remains of an ancient Theatre may frill he difcovercd. LETTER BETWEEN 1792 A^D 1798. IC9 LETTER XXIII. Florence, March 1793. I TISHING to fee the Cafcade of Terni, we took the Pcrusria-road from Rome hither, and found it fo very intercft- ing that I mall give you a brief account of the objects bell: worth notice. The road from Ptome to Perugia is through the Porta Flamhiia, now Porta Flumentana. The Ponte Molle, or Mihio, corruptly fo call- ed from M. Emilius Scaurus, by w horn it was built, lies in this road, about two miles from Rome, and is rendered famous by Conftantine's vifion. Chita Cajlellana, fuppofed to be the ancient Veii, was the firft town which attracted our attention, and is, in point of fituation, particularly flrong and beau- tiful. JN arm, I/O LETTERS FROM ITALY, Narnl, the next town in this road, was anciently called Nequ'mum, from the ob- ftinacy of its Citizens, who, during a iiege, killed their Wives and Children in order to iave their provisions, and, when all thefe w r ere conrumed, chofe rather to lay violent hands upon themfelves than furrender. This place gave birth to the Emperor Nerva. A little beyond Kami, and about a mile out of the road, are the remains of a magni- ficent Bridge, fuppofed to have been built by Auguftus over the river Nera, for the pur- pcfe of uniting two hills. The moft con- venient way of feeing this ftatcly Ruin is to let the carriage wait in the road to Terni, while you walk down the hill at whofe foot the Bridge prefents itfelf. It eonfifts of large {tones ioincd together with- out any cement or iron cramps, and their outfidcs cut into the form of diamond.-:. On the dry land next to Narni is one en- tire, arch, the piers of wine: 1 , are above forty common BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 ?Q8. 1 ; I common paces afunder. The piers frill re- maining in the water prove the immenfe fize of the arches, which were not, how- ever, of an equal diameter. The length of this Bridge t$ fuppofed to have* been 850 Roman palmi : the diftance between the piers of the firit arch is computed to be ] 00 palmi, and its hight 150; the diftance be- tween the piers of the fecond 1 80 palmi ; that between thofe of the third 150 ; and the laft arch, which ends on the other fide of the Nera, is 1Q0 palmi in breadth. Term derives its ancient name, Inier- aniiia, from the two arms of the Nera be- tween which it is fituatcd. Cornelius Tacitus, and the Emperors Tacitus and Florianus, were born in this City, which contains the rums of an Amphitheatre in the Eoifcopal Garden, and thole of a Tcm- pie of the Sun in the Ciiurch of S. Salva- dor?. At S. Siro, in the Cellars of the Col- k^\ are the remains of a Temple of Her- cules, l"2 LETTERS FROM ITALY, cules, and in the Cajin of the Cafa Spada, fome ruins of ancient Baths. Four miles from Terni is the famous Cafcade, called, Cadnta delle Marmore, and formed by the fall of the Vclino into the Nera. This Cataract is faid to have been made about the year of Rome 0/1, by Cu- rius Dentatus, who, in order to drain the territory of Rieti of its {landing waters, cut channels, through which he difcharged them into the Vclino, and, from thence, into the Nera, forming by thefe means a Cafcadc, confuting of three leaps, the firft computed to be 300 Englifh feet, the two others united between four and five hun- dred. Wifhing to fee this Cataract in per- fection, we fct out from Terni about ten o'clock of a clear morning, and afcended the Monte di Marmore in Calaflies, till we approached the Vclino, which announces itfelf at a confidcrable difbnee by its thun- dering noife. We then walked to view the narrow BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 /QS. 1/3 narrow pafs through which it rufhes down the fall of 300 feet, and afterwards pro- ceeded to a Temple built on a promontory for the purpofe of contemplating the three leaps together. Here we remained till twelve o'clock, when, the cffecl: of the fun upon water, which, from the velocity of its fall, rifes into vapours refembling millions of curled white feathers, is beautiful beyond defcription ; indeed there are very few T cc- leftial rainbows half fo brilliant as the tcr- reftrial ones at Terni. 'After having feen thefe, we returned to the bottom o£ the Monte di Marmore, and then walked (it be- ing, I believe, impoffible to ride,) to view the Cataract from below. We paid for each Calafh two Roman crowns, and gave cur Cicerone five pauls. Perfons who do not like to truft themfelves in a carriage, may afcend the Monte di Mar- more upon a mule, for which the price is five pauls. Spoleti, 174 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Spoletiy or Spoleto, is a very ancient City> Ctuated on the acclivity of a mountain, and watered by the Clitumnus, formerly cele- brated for the whitenefs of the cattle which grazed near it. The Citizens of Spoleto rc- pulfed Hannibal immediately after the bat- tle of Thrafymenus ; and they ftill preferve a gate, called Porta Fuga, with an inferip- tion in memory of this event. The Ca- thedral contains paintings, baffi rilievi, and ancient mofaics. The Aqueduct is a beau- til til gothic fabric, fupported by fione arches, and, in one part, by a double arcade, faid to be 300 feet high. Between Spoleto and Foligno, a few hundred paces from Le Vene, is the Tem- ple of Clitumnus, now converted into a Chapel, and dedicated to S. Salvadore. The front towards the plain is adorned with four Corinthian pillars, and two pilaftcrs ; the edifice is oblong, and on the roof are the following BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 17Q8. 17% following words cut in ftone ; " T. Septi- m'tus Pkbeius." Foligno, in Latin Fulginas, is remarkable for a charming picture, by Raffaelle, in the Convent of the CountefTes of Foligno.* The altar, and frefco-paintings in the Ca- thedral, merit notice. Between Foligno and Perugia lies Affijt, in Latin AJJifium, the birth-place of S. Fran- cefco. It is fituated on a hill fo near to the great-road, that Travellers may vifit it with cafe. The Church of S. Francefco, in this ancient City, contains feveral pictures of the old School, well worth notice. The Con- vent of Francefcan Nuns, called the Nuns of S. Clare, likewife deferves attention ; and the Church of Sa. Maria, or the Filipini, once a Temple of Minerva, is a beautiful piece of antiquity. Perugia, in Latin Augujia Perujia, the * This pi&ure was upon fale when 1 paled through Foligno. 1/Q LETTERS FROM ITALY, capital of the rich and charming province of Umbria, and anciently the ftrongeft city of Etraria, contains many antiquities w feeing, befides a confiderablc number c . paintings by Pietro Perugino ; but, exclu- sive of this, it is advifable for Travellers to flecp here, in order to avoid paffing a night at Torricella. Perugia is magnificently fitu- ated on the fummit of a lofty mountain of the Apennine, and feems, by nature, almoft impregnable : fuch, indeed, was the ftrengtli of this City, and fuch the valour of its in- habitants, that Hannibal ventured not to attack it, even after having; gained the im- portant battle of Thfaiymenus : and, to this moment, the Peruvians are famed forbeinsj the moil daring and ferocious of the Ro- man People. Between Torricella and Camofcia, at five miles diftance from the former, is the mi- ferable Village of Tafjignav.o, rendered fa- mous by the above-named victory gained near BETWEEN 1792 AN!* l7gS. Iff near this fpot by Hannibal, 217 years be- fore Chrift. Six miles further on, is the Ponte San- guinetto, fituated below a village of the fame name, and both fo called from the erTufion of Roman blood fpilt there. Between Paffignano and Sanguinetto, the fite of the Roman Camp, and the pafs through which Hannibal came down from the heights, may be difcovered. Four miles further on is Spilonga, a fmall hamlet on the confines of Tufcany ; and, three miles from Spilonga, ftands OJJaia, where, on a houfe in the ftreet, is the fol- lowing ihfeription. " Xomen habct locus hie OJfaia ab ojjibus Mis " Qua 'dolus Annibalis fudit & hajla Jimul." " This place bears the name of OiTaia, from the bones of thofe unfortunate Men Avhom Hannibal flew here." OfTaia is by many Writers fuppofed to have been the actual field of battle ; though, Vol. II. N perhaps, 178 LETTERS FROM ITALY, perhaps, it rather was the hill to which the fmall remains of Flaminius's Troops retired ; becaufe, thirteen miles, the reputed diftance between Paflignano and Oflaia, feems too large a fpace for the contending Armies to have occupied. It is impoffible to view the country between Paffignano and Oflaia, without feeling the higheft admiration of the military fkill of Hannibal, who con- trived, on an Enemy's ground, to draw that enemy into a narrow, fwampy, and uncom- monly foggy plain, where no army, how- ever numerous, however brave, could long have defended itfelf : for on three fides arc heights which were pofTefTed by the Troops of Carthage ; and, on the other, a vaft un- fordable lake. On the hill above Camofcia, and within the diftance of a walk, ftands Cortona, or Coritus, laid to be the moft ancient of the twelve great Cities of Etruria. In the Ca- thedral is a large antique Sarcophagus, fup- pofed BETWEEN 1792 AND l'7Q8. 1 7Q pofed to be that of the unfortunate Coniul Flaminius, and reprefenting the battle of the Lapithes with the Centaurs. Many of the Churches are curious in point of archi- tecture, and mofl of them contain good pictures, both of the old and new School. Several of the private houfes contain valu- able paintings. The ancient Etrufcan Walls of this City are in fome places difcoverable ; they were formed of immenfe blocks of marble, without any cement whatfoever ; and, in the Mufeum of the Academy, and in thofe which belong to the Nobles of Cortona, are other Etrufcan antiquities. Arezzo, anciently Aretlum, is remarkable for the extenfive view from its Fortrels. The Mufeum of M. M. Baca, contains Gre- cian and Etrufcan antiquities ; and the re- mains of the ancient Amphitheatre are ftill to be feen. Arezzo gave birth to Petrarch. As the fubje6t of this Letter has led me to fpeak of Hannibal, I will iubjoin a detail of N 2 what 180 LETTERS FROM ITALY, What appears to have been his Route into Italy, which I have traced from an ancient Map as far as Embrun upon the river Du- rance in Dauphing, and afterwards founded Upon the authority of Polybius, flrength- ened by the prefent appearance of the ground. Hannibal fet out in the midil of winter U. C. 536, with an Army of 50,000 Foot, and Qooo Horfe, befides elephants, from (Ancient names) (Modern names) ■Septa - - - - Ceuta, in Africa, a Sea- port', and crofledto Tretum Ercu- The Straights of Gibraltar; hum from whence he proba- bly proceeded by fea to Calpe - - - - Torifa, the Pillar of Her- cules in Europe : then paflcd through the Country of the The Kingdom of Granada Bafidi in Spain to Malaea BETWEEN i;g2 AND 1703. 181 (Ancient names) (Modern names) Malaca - - - Malaga; and, from thence proceeded through the Country of tl*e The Kingdom of Murcia, Baftiam Cartago-uova to the Camp of Spar- tarius, from thence go- ing to teftanorum Alone - Cartagena, and traverfing the Province of Con- The Kingdom of Valencia, to Alicant ; at which Sea- Port it feems probable that he embarked his Troops, and paffed up the river Segura, or Xucar, to Valencia, from thence pro- ceeding along the river Ebrc, through the Country of the The Principality of Cat ah - lllercaones nia, to Tarraro - - - Tarapona, and N 3 Carti JSaero - - Iter us - (Ancient names) Cartago~ Vetus Rubicatus -> Gerunda - 182 LETTERS FROM ITALY, (Modern names) VtJla-rranca : he then crofTed the The River Lobregat, pro- ceeded to, and crofTed the The river Girone, and then came to Rhoda - - - Rofes : though fome Au- thors affert, that he £oU lowed the courfe of the Girone to the Pyrenean mountains, and crofTed from thence into Gaul : From Rofes, however, according to the map, he went to Port-Vendres, from thence to Co Hour e, in the Province of VolcczTechfagcSy or Rof- JigJione ; from thence he proceeded to Narbo Veneris Fanum Caucoliberis, or Uliberis BETWEEN 1702 AND 1/98. 183 Agatha - - - Nemaujis - (Ancient names) (Modern names) Narbo - - - Narbonne, the country of the Bebricas, and from thence to Agde, or Adge and Nimes, when, palling v through the country of the Vokcz Arecomii, he proceeded to the banks of the Rhodanus - - The Rhone, down which river he pafTed to Avenio - - - Avignon; trom thence tra- verfmg The country of Provence, to Dauphin e, the the Cajfuares country of the Allobroges ; from thence he proceeded to Agufia Tricaf- S. Paul trots Chateaux, and trlnorum then wont along the ri- ver Druenha - - Durance, to N -1 TLmbr odiums 184 LETTERS FROM ITALY, (Ancient names) (Modern names) 'BmbroduniiSi - Embrwi, from whence he marched to, and crolTed Mons VeJuhiSy or Mount Vifo, one of the Vifus great Alps, faid to be 9997 Englifh feet high, but not fp difficult of accefs as are many of thofe mountains ; it lies almoft in a direct line with Embrun, and the road to it is not ro ftrongly guarded by nar- row defiles, as are many pafTages into Italy. — From thence he went to Pinarolum - - Plgnerol, a city of Upper- Dauphine, about twen- ty miles from Turin ; from thence he followed the courfe of the Padum BETWEEN X7Q2 AND 1708. 185 (Ancient names) (Modern name*) Padum - - Po, then went to Alha-Pompeia - Albe Dortona - - - Tortonu, and Tac'mum - - - Pavia; crorTed the river Trebbia, fubdued Phcentla Parma Reg/urn - - The Kingdom of Modma, and Mut'ma - - Modena itfelf ; then cams to Feflrfa - - Flefole ; from thence pro- ceeded to Arctium - - Arezzo, and from thence to Tranfimcnc - The lake of Perugia, or Thrafy menus. Hannibal is fuppofed to have palled through Gaul to the foot of the Alps in ten days : now, it feems an impoiiibility that he mould have reached the Fencltrel- les, Cenis, St. Bernard, or St. Gothard, in u> ikort a time. It likewife feems impro- bable 180 LETTERS FROM ITALY. bable that he mould have rejected the paf- fage of Mount Vifo, which lay directly be- fore him, to fearch for lome other at a greater diflance, efpccially as his only route to that other was through narrow and dan- gerous defiles. He is faid, by Polybius, to have pafTed through the Country of the Allobroges, over an immenfe Alp, from whence he faw and pointed out to his foldiers the rich and beautiful plains of Italy, after which he immediately defcended into Vallies watered by the Po. All this exactly defcribes Mount Vifo, on the Italian fide of which lie the plains of Piedmont, and through thefe plains runs the Po, which actually rifes at the foot of Mount Vifo. Polybius likewife fays, the firil city taken by Hannibal in Italy was Turin, and this too, might be, for Turin is only twenty miles diflant from Pignerol. LETTER BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/Q8. 187 LETTER XXIV. Drefden, June 1 798. TT 7E began our journey from Florence * hither, on the 12th of April, with a light ftrong German poft-chaife unloaded, and a Voiturin's coach for our baggage ; each carriage being ufually drawn by three mules ; and we gave for fix of thefe animals, from Florence to Hamburg, three hundred and thirty Tufcan fequins ; the Voiturin finding fupper and beds for four Perfons, and likewife defraying the expence of bar- riers, ferry-boats, Guides, Drivers, mules. We paid about a couple of florin day for our dinner, and one florin a night t the Servants at inns, unleis our carnage: were guarded, when we ufually gave tw< florins; and we allowed three fequins a du> for the mules whenever we chofe to flop. Buo/iu- 188 LETTERS FROM ITALY, Buona-mano to the Drivers was not included in our bargain, and to thefe Men (who behaved particularly well) we gave fixty fequins. One of our Party, a young Lady airlicled with weak lungs, was made alarmingly ill by croffing the Apennine to Bologna, (it be- ing a journey of two days over thefe moun- tains, which are quite as cold as the Alps;) and in palling through Germany her furrerr- ings were lb great, that I frequently thought fhe would have died, owing to the ftoves, which are univerfally fubftituted for fire- places; to damp beds, for there are no warm- ing-pans, and confequently no means of drying beds in Germany ; * to the piercini?; air of the Alps between Venice and Vienna ; to the feverity of the climate in Moravia and Bohemia ; and to the exceHivc rough- nek of the roads between Prague and Dref- ■• Invalids who travel through Germany mould take a frnull warming-pan with then). den. BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1 798. 1 8Q den. Nevertheless, we endeavoured to guard againft fome of thefe inconveniences, bj providing ourfelves with fur travelling-caps, warm loofe drefTes, thick boots lined with fur, and great-coats, which we were glad to put upon our beds in Moravia and Bohemia, where ' there are no coverlids except fmall cyder-down quilts, which generally flip off ere the night be half fpent. But, notwith- standing every precaution that Prudence can fuggeft, it feems to mc impoffiblc for Inva- lids to attempt the journev we have iuft taken, without imminent riik to their lives. Owing to the prefent ftatc of Europe, we found it neceiTary to provide ourfelves with a French, a Cifalpine, and an Imperial pafT- port, in order to travel with fafety kom Florence to Hamburg. Our firft day's journey was to he Mq/chere, whither we were fix hours in going ; the road from Florence to this place is a con- tinual afcent, and rather rough. We palled tii': ]Q0 LETTERS FROM ITALY", the royal Villa of Pratolino, and went near Val Ombrofa. The inn at La Mafchere is good, and warm, confidering that it {lands on the fummit of a mountain of the Apen- nines Our fecond day's journey was to Loiano, whither we were nine hours in go- ing. We found the road very hilly, but good, and the inn execrably dirty, bitter cold, in fhort, the worn: we ever met with in Italy. Our third day's journey was to Bologna, which we reached in fix hours. The road hither being hilly, but good, the former part of the country bold and romantic, the latter part rich and beautiful. We frequent- ly added oxen to our mules in pafiing the Apennine. The City of Bologna is ftaikingly magni- ficent ; its environs are charming, and, ex- clufive of the coats of arms bcinn; either de- faced or taken down from the outfidcs of palaces and public buildings, this country exhibits BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 1Q1 exhibits no marks of the ravages of war. The moft interefting objects to Travellers are — the Sampieri Palace, and the Neptune of Giovanni di Bologna. The former con- tains a moft valuable gallery of pictures, among which are St. Paul reproving St. Peter, by many People called the chef- d'esuvre of Guido !!!! It is in his Caravaggio- ftyle, and pofTefTes very little poetic merit, though its intrinfic excellence in penciling, colouring, and expreffion, ranks it among the moft furprifing efforts of the art of painting — a ceiling, by Gucrcino, the fub- jecl: Hercules fufTocating Antaeus, drawn with all the fcience and ftrength confpicu- ous in the works of Annibale Caracci !!! — the woman taken in adultery, by the laft- named Mafter, which, for purity of ftyle, fimplicity of compofition, and livclinefs of expreffion, may vie with the fineft produc- tions of Raffaelle, while it furpaftes them all ig2 LEttERS #K6M rTAlY, all in beauty of colouring !!! — a charming group of dancing Cupids, by Albano!! — the infant Jefus with the Madonna and St, Anne, by Pietro Perugino ; one of his beft Works ! — a group of Children, by Algardi ; and another, by one of his Scholars, in mar- ble which is fonorous like bell-metal. The Neptune of Giovanni di Bologna is one of our very fineft pieces of modern fculpture ! This City contains, in its Churches and Palaces, an immenfe number of excellent paintings by the Caracci Family, their Scholars, &c. not mentioned above. In fhort, fo many fine things remain, that thofe taken away by the French arc fcarcely miffed. Here are three inns — The Pele- grino, S. Marco, and lire Mori. After remaining one day at Bologna, wc proceeded in eight hours and a half to Fer- rara, through a very good road. Midway between this City and Bologna is a neat and pleafant BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1/98. \QZ pleafant inn, called 77 T fc \ or II Tedo, where Travellers may dine or fleep. The road from Bologna hither lies through a remarkably rich country. Between II Tedo and Ferrara we crofTed the Reno in a ferry.* Ferrara is a fortified town, famous for having been the birth-place of Ariofto, who, likewife died here, and his tomb may ftill be feen in the Bcncdicline Church. The water at Ferrara is extremely bad; the inn where we flept, (Itre Mori, J a good one. Our next day's journey was to Rovigo, whither we were eight hours and a half in going. Soon after quitting Ferrara, we fer- ried over the Po, a dangerous river after rain. We then crofTed the Canal-Bianca in a terry ; and to this Canal the road is good, but, from hence to Rovigo, fo bad as to be The general price paid bv Voiturins for ferrying over rivers and canals is three livres, about four pauls and a half. Vol. II. O at 1Q4 LETTERS FROM ITALY, at all times dangerous for heavy carriages, and absolutely impatfable after rain. The inn at Rovigo, fS. Marco) is clean and comfortable. We flept here, and then pro- ceeded in nine hours and a quarter to Pado- va, ftopping, however, to dine at a village about mid-way, called Monte-Sedlci, where, La Pofta is a comfortable inn, and a good dining or fleeping-place. The road to Monte- Sedici is flat, fandy, and bad aftei rain, but from thence to Padua good, and, though flat, pretty. Padua is large, and ftrongly fortified, but not handfome, the Univerfity excepted, which was built by Palladio and Sanfovino. We flept at The Stella d'ora, a very good inn ; and next morning drove in fix hours and a half to Me/ire, through a good road. At the inn at Meftre (a very indifferent one) we left our smiles, carriages, and what baggage we did not want, and tlven embarked in a Gondola, which BETWEEN 1/92 AND 1/Q8. 1Q5 which conveyed us in lefs than two hours to Venice, for about thirteen pauls,' buo?ia- mano inclufive.* Venice is one of the moll: confiderable Cities in Italy, and from its fingularity alone highly merits notice ; it is built upon piles, in the centre of the Lagunes, and reputed to contain an hundred and eighty thoufand inhabitants. The Riafro, the Piazza di S. Marco, and the Churches and Palaces by Palladio, Sanfovino, Scamozzi, and San- Michele, arc deemed chef-d' 'mwres of archi- tecture ; but, notwithstanding the beauty of thefe edifices, Venice is lefs ftrikingly mag- nificent than many other Cities of Italy ; * Inftead of purfuing the above-mentioned route, I would couniel Invalids, mould the weather prove favourable, to embark at Francolino, which is five miles from Ferrara, and go all the way to Venice by water, a voyage of eighty miles up the Po, the Adigc, the Brenta, and the Lagunes, which is ufually per- formed in about twcn'.v hours. Carriages, however, mud at all events go over land ; but, as the road is extremely bad, they go bell empty, O 2 and 19*3 LETTERS FROM ITALY, and the Arfenal, once fo celebrated, is entire- ly gutted by the French, while thofe fhips of war which they could not take away, are funk in the harbour. The famous Horfcs of bronze gilt, with many other celebrated pieces of fculpture and painting, are tranf- ported to Paris : fhipendous work, how- ever, {till remain, by Titian, Tintoret, Paul Veronefe, &c. ; but, what excites molt intereft at Venice, is to obferve how amply and conveniently this City is fupplied, not only with the necefTarics, but the luxuries of life, though it potteries naturally neither foil nor frefh water. The Church of S. Marco is curious, from being completely incrufted with ancient mofaic. Over the high-altar are Greek paintings — the Doors were brought from Conftantinoplc, and are Corinthian brafs— the Pavement is mofaic. S. Giorgio Maggiore, built by Palladio in a ftyle of grand fimplicity, contains a paint- ing, BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798. 197 ing, by J. Baflano, of the adoration of the Shepherds, which, though very dirty, merits notice, the light from the body of the Child being wonderfully managed. 7/ Redeutore, built by Palladio, is a fim- ple, elegant, and magnificent piece ot archi- tecture ; it contains a picture of the nativity, by F. BafTano, and in the Sacriity is a painting of the Madonna, our Saviour, and two Angels, by G. Belino. 11 Frari contains an afTumption, by Ti- tian, which is placed in a bad light, fmoked, and dirty, but the competition appears to be extremely fine ; a Madonna and infant Jefus, by the fame Mailer (this latr. picture was much fhidied by Rubens and Vandyck), and, in the Sacrifty, a painting by G, Be- lino. .S". Rocco is adorned with iix excellent paintings by Tintoretto, and that reprefent- ing S. Rocco healing the Sick is particular!) O 3 fine! 1Q8 LETTERS FROM ITALY, fine ! In an arch oppofitc to the iaflr named piclurc is a work by Pordenone, reprefenting Saints Chriitopher and Mar- tin on horfeback ! Sa. Maria del/a Salute contains the defcent of the Holy Ghoft, by Titian, painted when he was fixty-four years of age ; and on the ceiling of the Sacrilty the death of Abel ! — the facrifice of Abraham ! — and the victory of David over Goliah ! — all by the fame Matter. S. Mark, S. Sebaftian, S. Ilocco, &x. are likewife by Titian, and a fine fpe- cimen of his firft manner. // Gefuiti, a noble Church, though too much loaded with ornaments, contains an aflumption, by Tintoretto. S. Giovanni di Rial to is adorned with a celebrated piclurc of the Patron-Saint giv- ing alms to the Poor, by Titian ! ! ! This work abounds with portraits, executed with that truth and character which dirlinguifh the BETWEEN 1792 AND 1798- 199 the paintings of the jufl-named Artift, while the compofition is fimple and perfectly adapted to the fubjecT. Sa. Maria Maggiore contains an interefting picture of St. John Baptift, by Titian ! Sa. Caterina is adorned with various paint- ings on the walls, reprefenting the life of the Saint, and executed with great force by Palma il Giovine. Over the high- altar is the marriage of St. Catharine, by Paolo Ve- ronefe, the compofition of which is grace- ful, and the drawing more correci than ufual with this Matter, but the light is too equally diffufed. Here, likewife, is a picture of Tobit and the Angel ! fuppofed to be either by Titian or Santo Zago. Scuola della Car it a contains the prefenta- tion of the Madonna, by Titian f ! ! a work full of harmony, richnef^, and truth ; the landfcape in the back- ground is very fub- lime, the attitudes of the Priefts are grand O 4 and 200 LETTERS FROM ITALY, and fimple, and the old Woman felling eggs in front of the picture appears quite alive. Scuola de Sarti contains a frieze which goes round the room, and is remarkable for being the firft public work of Tintoretto ; the fubject is the life of St. Barbara ; here likewife is a picture of St. John, St. Bar- bara, &c. by Giorgione. Scuola di S. Rocco contains the largeft and belt works of Tintoretto, who painted in this fchool for thirty years. The molt celebrated of thefe works are — the annun- ciation—the Slaughter of the Innocents — and the flight into Egypt — the compofi- tion of the firft is peculiarly fine, because ftrictly conformable to fcripture ; the blelTed Mother of our Redeemer being reprefented as the Inhabitant of an humble cottage, in- stead of being placed in a fplcndid apart- ment, which is too frequently the practice ; the furniture is wonderfully executed ; and the BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 JQ8. 201 the figure of the Angel replete with grace and enthufiafm. This School contains many other works of Tintoretto, Titian, &c. Palazzo Ducal e contains, in the grand council-chamber, the largeft picture in the world, executed by Tintoretto, and ferving as an example to fhew how entirely great talents may be thrown away from want of proper attention to methodical arrange- ment ; the whole performance exhibiting a mafs of confufion, though it abounds with fine groups, and, in fome parts, is wonder- fully executed. Palazzo Pifani Moreta contains Alexander with the Familv of Darius, bv Paolo Vero- nefe ! ! a picture which feems compofed in defiance to claffical knowledge and pure tafte ; but, neverthelefs, fo harmonious is the colouring, and fo beautiful the painting, that it is impoiTible to contemplate this work without forgetting all its faults and dvvel- ling only on its excellencies. I dldZZO 202 JLETTERS FROM ITALY, Palazzo Grimani contains, in the Court below, a coloflal ftatue of Marcus Agrippa, which was originally placed in the veftibic of the Pantheon at Home. This ftatue is Greek workmanfhip, and much admired ! ! — oppofite to it is a colofTal ftatue of Au- guftus — here, likewife, is a celebrated baffb- r'dievo of a little drunken Bacchus, and an- other, unfinifhed, of two fea-horfes. Up- Jlairs. Firft room — a colofTal ftatue of a Roman Conful ! 1 and two bajfi-rilievi ! ! — a bull; of Vitellius ! ! and another of Cara- calla. Third room — an oval in the centre of the ceiling by Giorgione — other parts by Giovanni da Udine. Fifth room — a ceiling faid to be by Ilaffaele and Gio. da Udine — an antique head of Hercules. Sixth room — • a fmall picture of a Love, by Guido. Ninth room — a colofTal ftatue, the pcdeftal of which is reckoned curious. Tenth room — a ceiling by Gio. da Udine ; the fubjeef trees and animals ; the execution is fine, but BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 / 98. 203 but trees on a ceiling feem abfurd — antique baffi-rilievi. Eleventh room — a fine table of Florentine-work. Twelfth room (beautiful in point of architecture, and built k fovino) — a fine table of touchftone— collection of antiquities from Pompeii, the ftair-cafe is painted by Gio. da I l The compofition for the floors of the apart- ments here, and all over the Venetian State, is very pretty. The Library, in the Piazza di S. Marco, has been fpoiled by the French of its moll; valuable contents. The bell inn at Venice is Petri llo's. The water in this City is, generally fpeak- ing, but indifferent. On the day when we quitted Venice we dined at Petrillos, and then went in our Gondola to Meftre, where we flcpt ; and the next morning early fet out for Conegliauo, .where we arrived in nine hours and three quarters. About ten miles from Meftre I! 204 LETTERS FROM ITALY, lies Trevifo, to which City the road is good. Beyond Trevifo we panned the Piave, on a bridge of boats ;* and after croffing the fpot where one of Buonaparte's great battles was fought, proceeded, through an indif- ferent road, to Conegliano. Numbers of elegantly built Villas, now completely gut- ted by the French, ftand on either fide of the high- way between Meftre and Coneg- liano. The latter town is rather large, and The Po/I-Hou/e a good inn. Our next day's journey was to Pordcnon, w r hich we were feven hours and three quar- ters in reaching ; the road between this place and Conegliano being bad at all times, and after rain extremely dangerous, as it lies clofe to the foot of the Alps, from which mountains valt torrents of water fre- quently defcend, and inundate the adja- cent country. La Pofta, at Pordenon, is a good inn ; here we flept, and next morning '-" This river is very dangerous after rain. proceeded BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 17Q8. 203 proceeded in nine hours to S. Tomma/b. The road, as far as Spilimbergo, runs near the Alps, and through the bed of a torrent dis- agreeable at all times, and unfafe after rain. From Spilimbergo we defcended into the Tagliamento, a moll: tremendous torrent after rain, but, in dry weather, fordable. It takes a full hour to travel through this wa- ter with the afliftance of oxen and Guides ;* and though the weather before we croffed had long been dry, the different ftreams of which the Tagliamento is compofed, were wide and rapid, infomuch as to be very dii- agreeablc. Soon after fording this torrent we pa{Ted a Town, called S. Agnello, a lit- tle beyond which is the Village of S. Tom- mafo. The road on this fide the Taglia- mento is good, the inn at S. Tommafo bad. Our next day's journey was to Ponteba i or Pontafel, whither we were twelve hours * Our Voiturin paid fur three Guides and two oxen, one fequin in 206 LETTERS FROM ITALY, in going. Wc took the road by Ofoppo', that being deemed the beft, though even that, as far as L'Ofpedaletto, is rough and dangerous, efpecially for the firft two miles. At L/Ofpedaletto we entered a defile of the Alps, which leads to Venzone, a pretty Town embofomed in thefe mountains ; and from hence to Refiuta we found the road, which lies parallel with the bed of the Tag- liamento, excellent, the views fublime, and the Alpine plants, which enamel the rocks, particularly beautiful. The inn kept by Perifuta, at Refiuta, is clean and comfort- able ; but the water here, as in moft parts of the Alps, is bad; and many Inhabitants of this country (particularly women,) arc afflicted with immenfe goitrous fvvellings. At Refiuta we began to pafs bridges made of wood, and covered at the toy ; there are five or fix of them in the Alps; and in Germany, likevvifc, all the bridges are made of wood, though not all covered at the top. From BETWEEN 1792 AND 1 7Q8. 207 From Itefiuta, which is fomewhat above half way to Pontcba, the road frill lies through defiles of the Alps, near the bed of the Tagliamento, and is good, though too narrow ; the views arc very fublime. Pontcba, the Frontier Town of Carin- thia, is a mifcrablc place ; and here, our baggage underwent fo rigorous an exami- nation in the open flreet, before wc were fufTered to drive to the inn, that it required Argus's eyes not to be plundered of every thing valuable our trunks contained, and Goliath's flrcngth to unpack and repack af- ter the fatigue of a twelve hour's journey : fuch, indeed, is the inconvenience Travel- lers mult. necelTarily be expofed to at this cuftom-houfe, that I would advife nobody to pafs Ponteba who can polTibly go an- other way ; it being the great object of the Cuftom-Houfe Officers to thieve, for which purpofe theyendeavour to throw fmall parcels on the ground under the carriages, and even examine 20& LETTERS FROM ITALY, examine coach-feats, writing-boxes, and let- ters. They feize gold and filver lace, muff, and tobacco, and for unmade filks, gauzes, &c, they oblige you to dcpofit double the worth, to be paid back, however, when you quit the imperial territories.* They accept no fees, and are flower in their operations than it is poffible to conceive. After fleeping at Ponteba, where the inn is a bad one, we proceeded in ten hours and a quarter to Villach, through a wide defile of the Alps ; and found the road good, and the country beautiful, every mountain being clothed to its fummit with noble fir- trees : the German Villages at the foot of the mountains, however, in fome meafure fpoil the beauty of the fcene, as nothing can be more uncouth than the wooden buildings which compofe them, except the * Your filks, &c. arc plumbed ; you are afked what road you purpofe taking ; and you then receive an order for the money you have depofited to be re- turned at the Cuftom-IIoufe on the confines. fences. BETWEEN 1792 AND l/QS. 200 fences, which are, if pofiible, ftill worfe, The houfes are even roofed with wood, and the confequence is, that thefc aukward edi- fices are continually burnt to the ground. The Inhabitants are as uncouth as their dwellings, and the very crows and oxen ugly ; fo, at leaft, they all appear in the eves of Perfons Ions; ufed to the elegant ar- chiteclure, polifhed manners, and beautiful horned-cattle of Italy. The Germans fel- dom have a wafh-hand bafin in any of their country-inns ; and even at Villach, a large town, we could not find one : the inn we fiept at, however, (its fign The Crown,) is clean and good ; though tall People cannot .deep comfortably either here or in any part of Germany : the beds, which are very nar- row, being placed in wooden frames, or boxes, fo fhort that any body who happens to be above five feet high, muft abfolutely fit up all night fupported by pillows ; and this is, in fact, the way in which the Ger- Vol. II. P mans 210 LETTERS FROM ITALY, mans Sleep. With refpect to provisions, we found no caufe for complaint ; meat, bread, and wine, (fomewhat like Mofelle) beer, foup and boullie, four-crout, ftewed prunes, coffee, and milk, being excellent ; and wa- ter, generally fpcaking, good and whole- fome. The ufual dinner-hour is twelve o'clock ; at which time Travellers may al- ways find fomething fit to cat at the inns ; German cookery being fimple and whole- fome : one requifite to a comfortable meal it is, however, very difficult to obtain, I mean clean table-linen. We were actually obliged to purchafe a couple of table-cloths and fix napkins on our journey, fo terribly w^ere we annoyed by the dirty linen which was produced every where but in the very large Towns. Women, in this country, feem to work harder than men ; and at public houfes you generally fee female Servants, who, not only cook the dinner and wait at table, but even feed BETWEEN 1792 AND J /Q8. 211 teed the horfes. The Peafantry have fine complexions, with a great appearance of health and ftrength, but their countenances feldom exprefs good-humour, or quicknefs of apprehenfion ; they drefs neatly, and wear high-fhoes, like thofe of our Englifn Far- mers. The Women are faid to be depraved in their morals. Moft of the country-towns through which we pafled confiil of ftraight ftreets, with a large fquare in their centre, adorned by an obelifk, ftatues of the Ma- donna, our Saviour, &c. The German horfes are remarkably {Irons; and handfome, and the whole country, from Ponteba to Vienna, wears the lace of wealth more per- haps than any other part of Europe. The paffing through this part of Ger- manv feems like living fome hundred years ago in England ; as the drefles, cuftoms, and manners of the People precilely re- semble thofe of our anceftors. Manv of the ir implements of hufbandn , alio, appear fimi- P 2 lar 212 LETTERS FROM ITALT, lar to ours ; and their kitchens are furnifh- ed with plates, dilh.es, bafins, and ewers of pewer, and wooden trenchers, exactly like thole which may ftill be feen among us in old farm-houles. The herbs and fhrubs alfo refemble thofe of England, except that bar- berry-bullies are fubftituted for blackberries, while the firs grow fo luxuriantly, that young plants a few inches high abfolutely carpet all the woods. The road from L'Oipedalctto to Villach has been made about ten years ; it feems to have undergone a recent repair, and cer- tainly poffelTes one great advantage, that of being, perhaps, the only approach to Italy which does not lie over the fummits of the Alps. It is indeed very remarkable, that al- though we were furrounded by thefe cloud- capped mountains the whole way, we fel- dom, if ever, defcended a hill fteep enough to render a drag-chain necefTary ; neither did we perceive any fault in the road, its narrow nefs BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/Q8. 213 narrownefs excepted ; and this was particu- larly troublefome to us, as we frequently met hundreds of* artillery- waggons, and were fometimcs compelled to flop a full hour while they palTed. From Villach we proceeded to Clagen- furt, in eight hours and a half, through a good road, and a finely cultivated and itrikingly beautiful country, adorned with .a noble meet of water, called the Lake of Fel. The vallies are variegated with fmall Villages and ruftic Churches, like thofe of England ; the near mountains clothed to their fummits with firs, and other trees ; while behind them rife Alps covered with ^eternal fnow. Clagenfurt is a large and ftrongly fortified City ; the houfes are tolerably neat, and the fpires of the churches built in the Turkifh ftvle, and covered with white metal. We flcpt at The golden Star, which is rather a good inn, and next day proceeded, in nine P 3 hours 214 LETTERS FROM ITALY, hours and a half, to Friejach, through an excellent road, and a bold, finely wooded, and richly cultivated country. In the way to Friefach lies St. Veit, a handfome town. We found The Wolf at Friefach a good inn ; and, after ileeping there, drove in ten hours and a quarter to Judenburg, flopping, however, at Noumarck, (which is about mid-way,) to dine. We found the road to Noumarck fmooth, and the country well cultivated, though lefs beautiful than be- fore ; but, as we approached Judenburg, it became piclurefque and finely wooded. We flept at The golden Croft and Seville, a clean good inn, and went next day, in nine hours and a quarter, to Leoben. Our road continued good, winding near a meandering ftream called the Muhr, and our views were beautiful. Travellers ufually dmc about mid- way at Graubath. The imperial Eagle at Leoben, is a very clean comfortable inn, and the town is rather handfome, many of BETWEEN 1/Q2 AND 17Q8. 215 of the houfes being built with {tone or brick. Our next day's journey was, through Bruck, to MerzJiofen, which we reached in five hours and three quarters ; and there- fore might eafily have gone further ; but hearing that the beds at the next Poll were engaged, and finding the inn at Merzhofen tolerable, we ilept there, and then proceed- ed, in nine hours and a half, to Schottwein, paiiing through a good road to MerzufcJilago, where we dined, and then afcended a very loftv mountain, at the foot of which lies ml Schottwein.* The afcent is good, and takes up about one hour ; the defcent employs more than double that time, and is fharp and dangerous, the road being narrow and ill-kept, infomuch that waggons afcend on the Schottwcin-hde with fixteen and fome- : " From Mcrzufchlago we took extra hoifes to the fummit of this mountain, which Travel! dei'cend after it becomes dark. V i times 216 LETTERS FROM ITALY, times twenty horfes. We found the coun- try from Merzhoften to Schottwein wild, pretty, and finely wooded ; and previous to our arrival at Merzufchlago we patted the town of Krieglach. The Poft-Houfe at Schottwein is a tolera- ble inn. Our next day's journey was to Trajkir- ken, whither the drive took up ten hours and a quarter. After quitting Schottwein we entered an extensive plain highly culti- vated, and pafTed through a good road to Neukirken and Neujfatt, reaching the latter in about fix hours and a half. Neukirken is rather a large town, and contains good inns. Neuflatt likewife is large, contains good inns, and is fortified. We dined here. Prom hence to Trafkirken the road is flat and good, the country lefs plcafing and not fo well cultivated as before ; to the right, however, we had a profpect of Hungary and the Danube. We found The Stag at Trafkirken BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/Q8. 217 Trafkirken a very indifferent inn, though the town feems rather large. Next morning we drove in four hours and a half to Vienna, through a flat and ill- kept road, and a country thick fet with villages, and abounding with game, hares cfpecially, but not w r ell cultivated. On en- tering Vienna we were driven to the Cuf- tom-Houfe, w r here the Officers, though apt to be troublefome to Foreigners, were to us very civil. The inns of this City are bad and dear ; Wolfs is deemed the belt, and The white Bull once was tolerable ; but the prefent Mailer is fo notorious a Cheat as not to fcruple, after making a clear bargain, to deviate from it in every particular ; be- fides which, his dinners are fo bad that it is fcarcely poffible to eat them. Indeed, the only way of living comfortably at Vienna is to take a private lodging. This City, built at the confluence of the Danube and the Vienne, is fmall but ftrongly fortified. 218 LETTERS FROM ITALY, fortified. The Fauxbourgs are immcnie, and contain finer buildings than the City itfelf, in which the palaces are icw and not fpacious. Vienna, to foreign eyes, looks ra- ther rich than handfome, being defcitute of thofe fplendid ftreets and fquares, which ufually adorn the Capital of a great empire : the environs, however, than which nothing can be more magnificent, make up for the deficiencies of the town. The fineft public Edifices are — The Royal Refidence — The Cathedral of St. Stephen — The Campanile — The Vafe of the Library — a?id The Arfenal. The royal Gallery of Piclures at the Belve- dere is highly worth notice — it contains a large work, by Titian, finely executed, though not equal to thofe ftill remaining at Venice — charming paintings by Rembrandt, particularly a portrait of himfclf, which, for bravura and truth may be denominated his chrf-d ' (Euvrelll — a fine picture by Rubens, reprcfenting BETWEEN 17Q2 AND 1798. 21Q reprefenting an Emperor receiving pardon for fome offence againft the Holy-See — Ju- piter and Io, by Correggio ! ! ! ! Ganymede, by the fame Mafl< r ! ! ! ! The former has been retouched in the back ground, but is, exclufive of this, pure from the pencil of Correggio two heads by Denner — -and fome excellent flower-pieces by Van-Huy- fum — thefe pictures are on the ground' jloor. The rooms above-flairs likewife con- tain paintings highly worth notice, from be- ins; the works of the very earlieft Mailers of the Flemifh and German Schools: they are in excellent prcfervation, poifefs great merit, and form a moll: interefting hiftory of the progrefs of the art. Tlie Belvedere is not open above twice or three times a week. It is ufual to give two florins, if you fee the ■whole collection. The Treafury, and the Cabinets of Medals and Natural-H'tftory merit notice — the Ca- vieo 220 LETTERS FROM ITALY, •meo of Alexander, by Pyrgoteles, is much celebrated. The Gallery of Piclures in the Lichtert/lem Palace contains fome remarkably fine por- traits by Vandyck and Rubens ! — two whole-lengths, by Holbein ! — a Girl playing on the guitar, by M. A. Carravaggio — the facrifice of Iphigenia, by N. Pouffin a Countryman eating, by Beccafumi — a head by Seybold, being his own portrait— a Ma- donna and Child, by Teniers — another by Haniman — flower-pieces, by Van-Huyfum, Trechfler, &c. &c. Wc gave one florin above-flairs, and two pauls to the Porter below. This gallery may be feen at all times; but is much inferior to that at the Belve- dere. The Porcelain ManufaSinre merits notice. The Prater is, perhaps, the moft. magnifi- cent public drive and walk in Europe. The ufual time of going is after dinner. Here you BETWEEN 1792 AND 1/98. 221 vou may have coffee, excellent milk, beer, bread, &c. L'au Garden is a public plaGe near the Prater, fomewhat like Vauxhall. Here, you may dine (under the made of fine horfe- cheftnut trees) in the garden ; or in a fpa- cious room with the reft of the Company ; every party, however, having its feparate table : it is poffible, likewife, to get a room to yourfelf. A band of mufic, which plays during dinner, receives from each party a paul or two. Dinner, wine excepted, coils one florin per head, and is excellently well ferved. Here are billiard-tables, a dancing- room, coffee-room, &c. The Waiters fpeak French and Italian. Schoenbrun is another public garden, well worth notice, where you dine for the above- named price. Thcfe two Gardens are open for dinner- company from the nrft of May to the laft of September ; and during the reft of the year 222 LETTERS FROM ITALY, year the fame Traiteur fcrves, at the fame price, in his own h nib at \ icnna ; and I would advife Travellers to din.: eonftantly with this Man, in preference to 1 ■ n4 LETTERS FROM ITALY, fell upon the poor Stranger, and beat him {o unmercifully, that he was compelled to take wing, and, with fome difficulty, got away. About four months afterwards, how- ever, he returned to the poultry-yard, reco- vered of his wounds, and attended by three other florks, who no fooner alighted than they fell upon the tame ftork and killed him. From Hamburg to this Town we went by water, in one of the boats which ufually convey Paffengers, each of which is large enough to accommodate five or fix People, and contains beds, and a fire-place for dref- fing provifions. The time of embarking is regulated by the tide. We w T ere about eighteen hours in going, and paid to our Watermen (three in number,) feventy marks for the boat, and four for drink- money. We found provifions for ourfelves, but not for the Watermen. On BETWEEN 1792 AND I/89. 255 On arriving here, we luckily met with a Packet ready to fail for Yarmouth ; and, therefore, ordered our boat along-fidc of her, and depofited our baggage with the Steward before we landed ; which we were obliged to do, in order to obtain from the Britifh Agent here, permhTion to embark on board the Packet ; and this permimon cofts, for each Gentleman or Lady, twelve Ihillings and fix-pence ; and, for each Servant, fix Ihillings and fix-pence. For paffage-money each Gentleman or Lady pays three guineas, and each Servant half-price. We, how- ever, took the cabin, (which contains fix beds,) to ourfclvcs, and gave for it twenty- five guineas. Trunks and parcels go coft- frce ; but, for every carriage the price is feven guineas, and for every horfe fix. Each Gentleman or Lady pays one guinea for provifions to the Captain, who finds every thing, w ine excepted ; and each Servant pays half-price. We gave, as a prefent to the 256 LETTERS FROM ITALY, the Mailer of the Packet, a couple of gui- neas ; to the Stewards half a guinea ; and to the Ship's Company one guinea. Ladies who make this voyage mould al- ways take the cabin to themfelves, or they mull neceiTarily be liable to great inconve- niences. The Packets are generally a week in go- ing to England, though not fo long in re- turning from thence ; owing to the preva- lence of wefterly winds. The Harwich -Packets are deemed the beft upon this ftation, and of thefe The Prince of Wales, Captain Hearn, is the ftrongeft and moll; commodious ; the Packet commanded by Captain Bridge likewife is a fine vcflel. Cuxhaven, though a fmall Town, con- tains clean inns, the beft of which is Miles's Hotel APPENDIX. APPENDIX. >e«J4-«< CLIMATES OF THE CONTINENT. M Y Family was advifed to travel over- land to Italy, and we therefore palled through France. Nice was recommended as the beft w r inter-climate, and we confe- qucntly fpent many months in that City ; but experience foon convinced me that we might have adopted a more eligible plan ; for long journics over-land are, to confump- tivc Perfons, dangerous experiments, not only becaufc carriage-exercife frequently does harm, but likewife from accommoda- tions all over the Continent being fo very indirFercnt, that it is fcarccly poilible for an Invalid to flcep at any inn out of a great Vol, II. £ town 238 appendix. town without fuffcring. I would, therefore, earneftly recommend to all confumptive Perfons, nay, to Invalids in general, the going to Italy by fea, in a veifel bound for Leghorn, and pafiing the winter at Pifa, which City I am perfuaded ought, in pul- monary complaints, to be decidedly pre- ferred either to Nice, or Mafia, Florence, Rome, or Naples ; nay, perhaps to every place in Europe, from the beginning of Oc- tober till the end of April. The marfhy ground and Handing water about Pifa for- merly rendered the climate damp and un- wholefomc ; but thefe inconveniences are now removed ; and the great increafe of population within the laft few years, has not only banifhed grafs from the ftrects, but difpenfed cheerfulncfs and health through- out this elegant City. One caution, how r - c\er, it feems needful to give Invalids, " never to fit, ftand, or walk in the fun, without being defended by a parafol ; al- ways APPENDIX. 25Q ways to prefer walking on the fhady fide of a ftreet, and never to go out in a ftrong north-eafl wind." The fame caution, in- deed, mould be obferved in every part of Italy. From the beginning of May till Mid- fummer I would counfel consumptive Per- fons either to refide at the Baths of Pifa, or in the City of Florence ; and, during the great heats, to feek a Villa, the more fpaci- eus the more wholefome, on thoie hills which lie juft beneath Fiefolc, where there is a conftant and fometimes a very frefh breeze from noon till funfet, infomuch that I have fat out of doors in the fhade at mid- day, when the thermometer often rifes to eighty-five and ninety, without feeling more warmth than is cafily Supported ; and as the wind always abates when the fun declines, and the Surrounding higher mountains of the Apennine attract the dews and noxious S 2 vapour?. 260 APPENDIX. vapours, this fituation is not liable to thofe ftrong and dangerous viciffitudes from heat to cold which are common in populous Cities of Italy, and particularly baneful to weak lungs. Lifbon too, as I have learnt from Pcrfons long refident there, is fubjecl to thefe deilructive changes, infomuch that but few confumptive Patients have reco- vered the bleffing of health from vifiting the banks of the Tagus ; and at Nice I iaw no inftancc of recovery from a confump- tion of the lungs ; neither did this appear extraordinary in a climate replete with elec- tric fluid, and where a hot fun, and a cold, drying, and uncommonly fharp wind arc perpetually combatting with each other, Mafia, in point of climate, is the counter- part of Nice ; and Naples, from the quan- tity ot fulphur with which its air is impreg- nated, cannot be a good fituation in all ftages of a decline. At Naples, likewife, the wind APPENDIX. 26l wind is apt to be piercing ; but, at Pifa, the air is uniformly foft, \\ hile the mountains, which rife like an amphitheatre above the City, fcreen it from every wind except fca- breczes. The air of Pifa, however, is fom-e- times complained of* as wanting elafticity ; but may not tills very want render it parti- cularly falutary to weak lungs ? In fliort, I am perfuaded, by experience, that the lives of many confumptive Perfons might be faved, were they fent by fea to Leghorn, advifed to winter at Pifa, cautioned againft travelling much by land, and, above all things, interdicted from croffing the Apen- nine and Alps, which People frequently do, in order to fpend the fummer-months in Switzerland, one of the molt unequal cli- mates of Europe. Rome, from the becinnino: of October till the middle of May, is, when the lungs are fo far recovered as to be free from ulcer- S 3 aiicn, 2<32 APPENDIX. ation, even better in confumptive cafes than Pifa. Florence, during the height of fummer, though wholefome, is oppreffively hot ; in autumn, temperate and agreeable ; in win- ter, cold, damp, and liable to moft deftruc- tive viciffi tudes of weather ; but delightful late in the Jfpring. To Perfons who require a bracing mmmer-climate I would recom- mend Carrara, which, from the loftinefs of its fituation, from its vicinity to the fea, and likewife from the days, owing to the height of the mountains, being fhorter there than in moil other parts of Italy, is nearly as cool as England. The Plain of Sorrento likewife is a cool, healthy, and beautiful fummer-iituation for Perfons vvho wifh to be within the vicinity of Naples, THINGS APPENDIX. 203 THINGS MOST REQUISITE FOR AN INVA- LID, AND INDEED FOR EVERY FAMILV TO BE PROVIDED WITH ON LEAVING ENGLAND. A cot, fo conftru play. Tea, coffee, fugar, muflard, foreign wines, brandy, rum, arrack, porter, Briilol-beer, and Gorgona anchovies, may all be pur- chafed more rcafonably at Leghorn than in any other City of Italy ; fo likewife may foap, ilarch, and hair-powder, at their re- fpeclive manufactures. Excellent pomatum, and a variety of coloured and fcented hair- powder, efTenccs, &c. may be bought in Via-Grand, of Peruquier, who is, per- haj).s, the belt Perfumer in Italy. Capt. Williams, in Via- Giar ditto, is deemed the bell: Wine-Merchant at Leg- horn — Wulffen the beft Grocer — (he likewife APPENDIX. 2/5 likewife has a manufacture of Carrara mar- ble*) — Mecali, in V'ia-Grci7ide, the bell: Jeweller, Haberdafher, Linen-draper, &c. — but, in this fhop, as in moll: others on the Continent, they afk double what they take. Mecali has a manufacture of Carrara- marble. Mr. Pol hill, a fkilful Surgeon, who lately had the care of our naval hofpital at Leghorn, refides in the Palazzo Bertoli, near the Porta-nuova ; and Perfons who employ this Gentleman may be fupplied by him, with Englifh Medicines. The Expert in bargain-making may pur- chafe filks, linen, muflin, &c. very cheap, of the Jews ; but, as thefe People commonly afk ten times as much as they take, it k difficult to deal with them. The beft Florence filks may be bought for four pauls and a half, or, at moft, four pauls and fix evade the br actio. * Wulffen kesps an excellent table cThcte. T 2 Perfons 2;0 APPENDIX. Perfons who waiit much Englifh flannel fhould pro^ idc thcmfelvcs with a ftock at Leghorn, it being difficult to find this ufe- ful article of cloathing in other parts of Italy. Provifions at Leghorn are, generally fpeaking, good ; butter and oil, however, mull be excepted, as both are very indiffer- ent. But it is caly to obviate this incon- venience by having the 0//67;/tf-butter from Pifa, and oil from Lari. There are Carriers, called Procaccint, who go daily to the former place ; and, from the latter, the Peafants come to fell poultry, fruit, &c. at Leghorn, three or four times a week. Invalids may be regularly fupplicd with good afTes milk at one crace the ounce, (the ufual price throughout Tufcany), goats and cows milk may like wife be procured with cafe ; but, in order to have the laft quite genuine, it is advifable to fend into the country ior it , it i< Iikewife requifite, while APPENDIX. 2/7 while an afs is milking, for fome fruity Perfon to ftand by, in order to prevent the infertion of hot water. Malta and Genoa oranges, fine dates, and Engliih potatoes, may frequently be purchafed at Leghorn. There is an oyftcr-houfc near the City, and the oyfters are very good, but two, three, nay, fometimes, four cracie each. Figs and grapes in their feafon are abundant and ex- cellent, particularly the white fig, and fmall tranfparent white grape ; the lair, of which, if gathered dry, put into paper-bags, and hung up, may be preferred all the winter. The beft fort of dried figs is generally fold in fmall bafkets of about one foot long and tour or five inches wide. Levant-figs and Spanifh. raifins may frequently be purchafed at Leghorn. About the month of Septem- ber plenty of fine wheat-ears are cau daily on the plain near this City. A Tufcan barrel of vine contain? twenty flafks, and a barrel of oil fixtccn flalks. T 3 Wood g;S APPENDIX. Wood is fold by the cataftre, the dimen? fions of which mould be, length, hraccia fix —breadth, hraccia \\,ox 1 \ — height, hraccia two. The price of each place in the public Timoneli, which goes daily from Leghorn to Pifa, is two pauls. Boats likewife go daily by means of a Canal, and the paiTage-money in thefe veiTels is fix cracie, or at moil one paid, for each Pcrfon. The price of a boat to yourfelf is, ten or twelve livres. It is not advifable for Travellers to hire a country-refidcnce near Leghorn, its environs being reckoned unwholcfome. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LETTER- COURIERS. Sunday at noon, arrive letters from Florence and all the Tufcan itate, Lucca, the Roman State, Venice, Mantua, Ger- many, &c. Monday morning arrives a Slajfetta, with letters for the Merchants, from Milan, Mantua, Germany, Flanders, Hol- land, APPENDIX. 27Q land, Great-Britain, Piedmont, Vero- na, Modena, Bologna, and France, by way of Milan. Tuefday morning arrive letters from Genoa, Lunigiana, Mafia, Pietra-Santa, and generally thofe of Spain, Pifa, and Lucca. IVcdnefday morning, from the kingdom of Naples, Rome, Siena, Florence, Lucca, and Pifa — at three in the afternoon, from Florence, &c. Thurfday about noon, from Venice, England, Holland, Flanders, Germany, &c. Friday morning generally arrive letters frorn. France. Monday evening, precifely at eight o'clock, go letters for Florence, Siena, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Bologna, Ferrara, Ve- rona, Milan, and all Lom'bardy, Ger- many, Lorena, Holland, Flanders, Great-Britain, and the other northern Countries ; Lucca and Tufcany. Jf'tdnefday precisely at three o clock, for Germany, Spain, and Portugal ; and at eight in the evening, for Florence, Prato, Piftojn ; and Lucca. T 4 Friday 230 APPENDIX. Friday evening, precifely at eight o'clock, for Venice, Ancona, Perugia, Germany, Flanders, Holland, Great-Britain, Flo- rence, Bolognn, Ferrara, Lunigiana, Turin, France, Lorena, Genoa, Lucca, Pifa, &c. PISA. A Cuiliom-Houfe- Officer follows Travel-* lers to their inn, or lodging, when they enter Pifa, and experts a fee of - five pauls. A band of Muficians likewife waits upon Strangers at their arrival, and expects from- three to five pauls. BEST LODGING-HOUSES. Cafa Lenzi, parte di mezzo-giorno, lung arno, three fetts of large and convenient apartments — Cafa Adami, fame fituation, three fetts of good rooms — Cafa Kanthaver, fame fituation, one fett of rooms, good, but ?iot large — Cafa Credit, fame fituation, one fett APPENDIX. 281 fett of fmall rooms — Cafa Rofj, fame fitua- tion, one fett of good rooms — Cafa Tidi, fame fituation, two fetts of good apartments — Cafa Agoft'mi, fame fituation, two fetts of apartments, one large, the other fmaU — Leiizi has another fmall apartment on the quay. Houfes off the quay — Cafa Schippi/i, feveral apartments, all large— Cafa Bracci in Borgo, one fett of large apartments — Cafa Gotii, three fetts of large apartments. — Many more lodging- houfes may be found off the quay. The price varies, from year to year, ac- cording to the number of Foreigners ; but, generally fpeaking, the beil apartments on the quay are from fifteen to twenty fcquins a month, provided plate, linen, and every requifite for a family be found by the land- lord. Off the quay lodgings are much cheaper. The •282 APPENDIX. The hire of linen per month is generally reckoned at four or five fequins for a large Family — the hire of a coach and horfes twelve or thirteen fequins per month, coachman's buona-mano inclusive — the hire of a faddle-horfe per month, about four fequins — the hire of a good coach-houfe per month, from five to ten pauls — the price per night at livery for a draught-horfe is, throughout Tufcany, three pauls, Hoftler Inclufive, the fimple charge feldom amount- ing to above twenty-two cracie — the price for a faddle-horfe is, generally fpeaking P about two pauls — the wages of a Coach- man per month, he finding himfelf in bed and board, is four fequins and a half or five fequins. The fedan-chairs at Pifa are ufually employed for conveying fick People to the hofpitals ; there is, however, one, kept en- tirely for the ufe of Travellers, who pay four pauls for being carried to and from any part APPENDIX. 283 part of the City. The price of a box at the Theatre is ten or twelve fequins for the feafon, befides entrance-money. The Eng- lifh are obliged to pay two pauls at entrance, though the Pifans give much lefs. It is pafy to procure a box by the night, on very- moderate terms, except during the laft week of carnival, when the price is confiderably augmented. The price of a dinner from a Traiteyr, is nx, feven, or eight pauls per head, according to the number of dimes — • the price of brcakfait per head at a corTee- houfe, is four or five crqete — the price of dinner per head at a Traiteurs, wine and bread inclufive, three pauls. The wages of a regular livery-fcrvant, is from two to three fequins per month, he rinding himfelf in bread and wine, but nothing elfe — of a fer- vant out of livery, who finds his own bread and wine, four fequins per month — (the Pifans, however, do not pay above five Jivrcs per month to their Servants) — of a Houfe- 284 APPENDIX. Houfc-maid, who finds hcrfelf in bed and board, and fetches fountain- water, one livre per day — of a Cook, who finds himfelf in bread and wine, three or four fequins per month. It is an excellent general rule, either not to let your Cook market for you, or to limit him to a certain fum for dinner, charcoal, and kitchen fire-wood. With refpecl: to fire-wood, (a great article of expence in Italy,) it is advifable to make intcrcft with ibme Perfon of confequence, and procure that which is fold by the Grand-Duke ; one cataftrc of whofe wood is equal to one and a half of the common meafure. There arc different kinds of fire-wood — that called legna doke is the molt wholefomc, though it confumes very quick — that called legna forte is ufuaH'y burnt in kitchens, but may be mixed with the other for parlour con- fumption, though I would not advife the burning it in bed-rooms. It is common for every APPENDIX. HSb every Vender of wood, the Grand-Duke's agents excepted, to cheat in the meafure, either by bringing a braccio to mcafure with not fo long as the law di reels, or by laying the wood hollow, and thus making it ap- pear more than it is. The hulks of olives ierve for fuel, and are an excellent fubftitute for charcoal ; and, in olive-countries, very cheap. It is necef- fary in winter for Invalids to mat their rooms, in order to avoid the chill which ftrikes to the foles of the feet from brick and marble floors. Mats of all lengths may be purchafed on the quay, the price is half a paul the braccio, and every mat mould be two braccia and a half wide. The Pifa market is, generally fpeaking, a good one, though frefh fifh can never be abfolutely depended upon but on Fridays, unlefs it be in Lent. The belt filh are — John-dories, called Pcfce d't S. Pietro ; grey and red mullets, called triglta ; turbots, call- ed 286 APPENDIX. ed ronibo ; tunnel, called tonno ; lampreys? called lampredo ; fturgeon, called Jlurione ; ombrina, pefce-cavallo, Jftada, dent id, par ago \, (all five peculiar, I believe, to the Mediter-' ranean ;) foles, called fogliola ; Mediterra- nean lobflers, called gambero di mare ; prawns and fhrimps. The £fh which comes from Via Reggio is generally excellent. The tench and carp at Pifa are remarkably fine ; fo likewife are the pike, and other fifh of the Arno and Scrchio. The mutton of Pif- toja, which may frequently be purchafed at Pifa, is excellent in point of flavour, and particularly light of digeftion. The Lucca veal, frequently fold at Pifa, is excellent. Beef and pork are very fine ; turkeys good : capons and fowls indifferent ; hares excel- lent ; other game plentiful, but not always fo well flavoured as in England. Wild- fowl good and plentiful. Venifon may be pur- chafed both in fpring and autumn, but is reckoned befl during the latter feafon : it is fold APPENDIX. *87 fold in a little ftrcct immediately behind Cqfa Lenzl. Wild-boar may be purchafed during winter and fpring. With refpeel to garden-fluff, the cauliflowers and fallacb are particularly good ; but vegetables in Ijaly, fillad excepted, mould, generally fpeaking, be ftewed, or they may probably difagree with weak ftomachs. Pifa is welL fupplied with grapes, figs, pears, apples, and other winter fruits, the bell of which come from Florence and Piftoja.- The butter made at the Grand- Duke's Cafc'ina is ex- cellent. Good cow's milk and cream may be purchafed at the juft-named Cafana. The oil made at the Cert of a is excellent, and may fometimes be purchafed in fmall quantities — good oil may alfo be bought at fome of the palaces, as every Tufcan No- bleman fells the produce of his olive-gar- dens and vineyards. With refpeel to table- wine, that of Pifa is unwholefome ; but that- of Florence may eafilv be procured bv \va- tcr- 588 APPENDIX. ter-carriage, and is not only plcafant to the tafle, but falutary to moft confti'utions. There are feveral kinds of* Florence-wine ; the fort ufually drank as common table be- verage, cofts from a paul to a paul and a half the flafk. Scales and weights are necefTary articles of kitchen furniture in Italy. The price of a pair of horfes to Leghorn and back again in one day, is from twenty to thirty pauls. Perfons who wifh to be inftructed in mufic, drawing, and the Italian language, will find excellent affifhmts in the following gentlemen — Sig. Filippo Giierardesca, Mufic-Maflcr ; Signori Tempesti, and Cioffo, Drawing-Matters; Sig. D RE . Ax- guillesi, Italian Mailer. Perfons who have the misfortune to want an Italian Phyfician, will find a very good One in Dr. Petri. "S' APPENDIX. 28Q Sig. Giuseppe Abate, Surgeon, bleeds remarkably well, as does his Brother of the fame name. For more difficult operations a Surgeon whofe name is Unis feems to be generally recommended. Sig. Fidele, another Surgeon, is a tolerable DentifL The common fee to all the above-named medical Men, is a jcudo from Foreigners, though the Natives give much lefs. Some of the Englifh Travellers, however, give a fcquin a vifit to Phyficians. Casa Meciierini, the great banking- houfe at Pifa, will fupply Foreigners with money ; but it is more advantageous to pro- cure it at Leghorn. The bell: ftay-maker in Italy lives at Pifa ; he charges the Pifans twenty-five pauls a pair for itays, but demands confidcr- ably more of Foreigners. The price of common fhoes is eight pauU the pair, whether for Men or Women. The price for making a coat is ten pauls ; Vol. II. U waiftcoat 2Q0 APPENDIX. waiilcoat three ; fmall clothes fix ; all charges inclufive. The price for rnaking a gown and petti- coat is ten pauls, bcfides body-lining. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LETTER- COURIERS. Sunday morning arrive letters from Florence, and all the Tufcan -State, Mantua, Flanders, Holland, Great-Britain, Ger- many, Triefte, Lombardy, the Roman- State, Venice, Ferrara, Ancona, Bo- logna, Parma, Piacenza, Reggio, and Modena. At night from Sicily, Na- ples, Rome, and Siena. On Sunday., likeivife, arrives the Procaccino of Luc- ca. During fummer arrives at noon a Staffetta from Florence with the letters of that City ; but, in winter, thefe let- ters do not come till the Monday morning — this Staffetta brings letters from Mantua, Flanders, Holland, Great Britain, Piedmont, and Lombardy, for the Leghorn Merchants. Monday arrives the Ordinario of Genoa, with letters from Turin, Lunigiana, Mafia, Pontremoli, APPENDIX. 291 Pontremoli, Sarzana, Pietra-lanta, Spairij Portugal, and Lombardy. In the evening arrives the Procaccino of Lucca ; and, at flight, a Staffetta from Leghorn. iVtdnefday morning early arrives a Staffetta from Florence, with the letters of that City, Sicily, Naples, Rome, Siena, Mantua, Flanders, Holland, Great- Britain, Ger- many, Bologna, Reggio, Modena, Par- ma, Piacenza, Prato, Piftoja, Lom- bardy, and Switzerland. At noon the Ordinario of Genoa comes from Flo- rence with letters. A Staffetta like- wife comes from Leghorn. At noon arrive, the Procaccini of Lucca and Barga. At night arrives a Staffetta from Leghorn. Thurfday morning arrives a Staffetta from Flo- rence, with letters of that City, Venice, Ferrara, Bologna, Mantua, Flanders, Holland, Great- Britain, Germany, Triefte, and Lombardy, for the Leg- horn Merchants. Friday arrives the Ordinario of France, who fometimes brings letters from Great- Britain, Spain, Portugal, and 'Lom- bardy. In the evening arrives the Pro" U % caccir.o 2£2 APPENDIX. caccino of Lucca ; and at night a Staf- fetta from Leghorn with letters from that City, and lbmetimes from France, Spain, Portugal, and Genoa. Saturday arrives the Ordinario of France from Rome, and returns immediately with letters for Rome and Naples. Monday goes the Ordinario of Genoa to Rome — a Staffetta to Leghorn, with letters for Genoa, and jujl before midnight, a Staf- fetta with letters for Florence, Tuf- cany in general, Rome, Naples, Malta, Sicily, Mantua, Bologna, Parma, Pia- cenza, Modemi, Reggio, Turin, Mi- Jan, Pavia, Brefcia, Cremona, Vero- na, Switzerland, Lombardy, Holland, Flanders, Great-Britain, Germany, and the northern Countries in general, Ferrara, Ancona, and the Venetian- State. Wednesday morning early goes a Staffetta to Leg- horn ; and, at noon, another. /// the evening go letters for Genoa, Spain, Portugal, Turin, Nice, Mafia, &c. and Lombardy. At eleven at night goes the Procaccino of Pifa, with letters for Florence, Prato, Piftoja, &c. A Pro- caccino likewife goes to Lucca. Thurfday APPENDIX. 2$3 Thirfday morning early goes a Slajfetla to Leg- horn — likewife the Procaccini ot Lucca and Barga. Friday, a little before midnight, goes a Staffetta to Florence, with letters for Tufcany in general, Venice, Bologna, Ferrara, Ancona, Sinigaglia, La Marca, Reg- gio, Modcna, Parma, Piacenza, Pe- rugia, and the Roman-State in gene- ral ; Naples, Sicily, Piedmont, Genoa, Spain, Portugal, Mantua, Switzerland, Milan, Pavia, Lombardy, &c. Ger- many, Holland, Flanders, Great-Bri- tain, Tricfle, &c. At flight goes the Procaccino of Lucca. Sunday morning goes the Ordinario of France. It is advifable to fend letters to the Pofr.- office, on general poft nights, by ten o'clock. On Monday the letters arc franked to every place, except Rome, Siena, Florence, Leghorn, and Lucca — on Wedncfday, to every place, except Genoa and the Towns on the road to that City — on Friday, to every place except Florence, Lucca, and Leghorn— on Saturday, to eveiy place ex- L T 3 cept 2Q4 APPENDIX. cept Lucca and Leghorn. The price for franking a fingle letter to England is fix crack — the price for franking a fingle letter to Naples, {even quattrlnu The price of one place in a Voiturin's carriage to go from Pifa to Florence, and ileep upon the road, is one fequin, which in- cludes buofia-mano, but not eating. Perfons going from Pifa to Florence had better not have their baggage plumbed, it being neceffary either to undergo an exami- nation, or prefent the Cuftom-Houie Offi- cers in the latter City with five or ten pauls, according to the quantity and quality of the baggage. FLORENCE. Good private Lodgings are dear, unlefs Travellers find their own plate and linen, in which cafe handfome houfes mav be hired for about ten fequins a month. Meg git's apartment pn the Lung -Amo in the fmaH Palazzo APPENDIX. 2Q5 Palazzo Medici, is only fit for a fmall Fa- mily, price about fifteen fequins a month, plat.- and linen inclufive. Cafa Ambrogi, on the Limg-Arno, is an excellent fummer- apartment for a large Family — price, from twenty to twenty- four fequins a month, with plate, linen, and the ufe of a kitchen. Cafa Ginorini, in Via Maggio is an excellent houfe — the rooms ufually let, (which are fufficient to accommodate rather a large Family,) at about twenty-five fequins a month, plate and linen inclufive ; but, if more rooms be required, the price of courfe is augmented. Cafa Sabatini, in Via della Nunziatina, contains a confiderable number of fmall rooms price, from twenty to twenty -five fequins the month, plate, linen, and the ufe of a kitchen inclufive. Cafa Berti, near Pio's, is a good houfe — price, from fifteen to fixteen fequins the month, plate, linen, the ufe of a kitchen, and a woman to clean the rooms inclufive. There Uj is 2Q(5 APPENDIX. is a pretty Lodging for a fmall Family in the Piazza di Sa. Maria Novella. The Mat- tonaio, near the Porta Pinti, is an excellent and a well furnimed houfe, capable of con- taining a very large Family — price, by the year, without plate and linen, about one hundred fequins. Apartments for fmall Fa- milies may be hired at four, five, fix, fcven, and eight fequins a month — plate, linen, and warning of the linen inclufivc. Among lodgings of this defcription is a pretty apart- ment oppofite to Shneiderff's price, about fix fequins the month. Cajli Cavallini, near the Pont e alia Caraia, contains fmall but pretty apartments. Robinson, the Eng- lifh Taylor, has a fmall apartment which he lets at one fequin the week. Noble houfes, unfurnifhed, may be hired by the year for, comparatively fpeaking, nothing. Board and lodging for a iingle Man in an Italian Family ufed to be about fifteen crowns a month, but, fmce the fcizure of Leghorn APPENDIX. 20/ Leghorn by the French, the price is confi- derabiy augmented. As the Tufcans take no pains to advert ife their vacant apart- ments, and it is confequently difficult to difcovcr them, Travellers would do well to apply for information toMoLiNi, the great Bookfeller, or Rtstori, who likewifc keeps a large mop at Florence. Price per head for brcakfaft, at a coftec- houfe, half a paul — price per head for dinner, at a Trattears, three pauls, oread and wine inclufive. There is a German Tra'iicur who fends a tolerable dinner to your own houfe at four pauls a head. The price of carriages is variable. Meggit, to whom fome of the bell belong, charges very high, namely, twenty-four pauls for the whole day — twelve for the hall day — and, bv the month, twenty feouins, buona mano inclufive. Pio's uiiial price is about fixteen pauls for the whole day — ten and a half, for the half day — and by the month, about ei rhtcen 2Q8 APPENDIX. eighteen fequins, huona-mano inclufivc. The half day js frorp nine in the morning till two, or from two till twelve at night. Fen zi, the Pofr.-Maft.er, lets out carriages by the month, week, &c. ; but the bell method of hiring a carriage is by apply- ing to fome Florentine Gentleman, by which means Travellers may obtain a good coach, ftrong horfes, and a civil Driver, for about fourteen fequins a month, huona-mano inclufive ; and by the week, &c. at propor- tionably reafonable prices. The belt Vol- turins are Fenzi and Polastri ; and the mules and Drivers of the former are, for long journies, preferable to thofe of any othpr Voiturin in Italy.* A fedan-chair to the opera-houfe and * Fenzi likewife is particularly honourable re- fpcciing money-matters : we paid him, before we left EJbrence, the full price for the hire of his mules as far as Hamburg ; but on finding we had difmilTed them at Drefdcn, and proceeded by water, he returned us, fince we arrived in England, a quarter part of our money. back APPENDIX. 2Q9 back again ufually cofts three pauls ; and to pay a morning vtfit, fomewhat lefs ; but it is always neceflary to make the bar- gain beforehand. Provifions in general are good, nfh ex- cepted. Figs, peaches, water-melons, and grapes, are, in their refpeclive feafons, excel- lent. Good cows' milk is difficult to obtain, as is good butter — afTes' milk is excellent. There is a kind of rufk made at Florence which is very light and good for Invalids. The wine of Florence is purchafed at the palaces of the Nobility, and, generally fpeak- ing, the bell: fort of common wine is made in the neighbourhood of Fiefole. Leatico, artimhw, &c. may likewife be purchafed of the Nobility. The beft medicines are fold by the Grand Duke's Apothecary, oppojite to the column crec~ied by Co/ho I. hi Via Romana. Tolerably good caftor-oil is made and fold at the Co?r*'e?it cfthe Annunziata. MOLINI, 300 APPENDIX. Molini, near the royal Gallery, fells En- glifh books, paper, pens, pencils, ink, Reeves's colours, painting-brumes, fealing- wax, pins, needles, tooth-brumes, wax-can- dles for coach lamps, tea, fago, James's powder, and a variety of other Englifh goods; he likewife has excellent rum. Restori, near the Church of Orjanmichele, fells many of the above-mentioned things, together with jewellery, knives, fcilfars, piftols, broad-cloth, and kerfcymcre ; he frequently has coral necklaces and ear-rings to difpofe of at a low price ; and what is fomewhat extraordinary, thefe ornaments maybe pur- chafed cheaper at. Florence than at Leghorn, where they are manufactured. Meg git, in the fmall Palazzo Medici, on the luting - Arno, fells foreign wines, and fpirits, porter, Briftol-bcer, tea, Englifh bark, James's powder, &c. he likewife has Englifh camo- mile flowers, which can be purchafed no where elfe in Italy, but of Mr. Polhill, at Leghorn. Florence APPENDIX. 301 Florence-filks arc of three qualities — one fort being eight pauls the braccio, another five, and the flighted: three pauls. The filk of five pauls wears the beft. Shoes arc bet- ter made at Florence than in any other part of Italy, and the flriped leather fold for Ladies' fhoes is remarkably flrong and pretty. The beft Shoemakers are, Bo- logna, and Shilini; Bologna charges eight pauls the pair for Ladies' ftriped or plain leather ihocs, the fame for Men's moes, and thirty pauls for common Ser- vants' boots. The Englifh Taylor, Robin- son", is tolerably reafonablc in his prices ; the Florentine Tavlors charge the fame as at Pifa ; as do the mantua-makers. The belt. Milliner is Madame le Roy, in Via Mciggio. Fine ftraw hats may be purchafed in the hat-fhops for ten, twelve, fifteen, and twenty pauls each, according to their quality. Perfons who have the misfortune to want a Phyfician will find a good one in Dr. 362 APPENDIX. Dr. Bicchierai. Sig. Santini, futid Piazza di S. Stefano al No. 4, is Surgeon to the Grand- Duke, and a remarkably good Bleeder. There is a very good tooth-drawer at Florence, who may be heard of by an application to Pio. Hebert, in Via del Garboy is a tolerable Dentifl. Fees to me- dical Men are much the fame as at Pifa. Servants' wages likewife much the fame as at Pifa. As bathing in luke-warm water is not only wholefome but necefTary during the great heats, it may not be amifs to in- fert, that excellent portable baths are eafily procured at four cracic per day. Pcrfons who are obliged to tranfact law-bufinefs may fafely apply to Sig. Bevilacqua, NoTARY-PUBLic,yw//tf Piazza diSa. Croce : this Gentleman fpeaks French, and reads Englifh ; and, with regard to fees, if you go to the office of a Doctor of law, or No- tary-public, he expects five pauls for affix- ing his feal and attestation to any papers you APPENDIX. 305 you may wifti to execute ; and fomething more is Hkewife paid for other feals which it may be rcquifite to affix ; but, if the Doctor or Notary wait upon you, it is com- mon to give ten pauls, every expence inclu five. Bankers at Florence give the fame exchange and nearly the fame aggh as at Leghorn. Messrs. Cecchi and Co. are honourable in their dealings, and anxious to accommodate Foreigners ; fo, like wife, are Messrs. Orsi and Co. The bcft Italian and French Matter is M. Gelli, who at- tends daily for four or five crowns a month. Sig. Axgiolo Axgiolini, in Via Evan- gieljjla deJJa Fortezza da baff'o, al No. 1 152, is a good Diawing-Mafter for landfcapes, and attends daily for four or five crowns a month. Sig. Andrea, a German, teaches the harp daily for four or five crowns a month, and fells excellent harp-firings at two fequins the fet. Other Mailers may be heard of by an 804 APPENDIX. an application to Molini, or Restori. A piano-forte may be hired for a fequin a month. Travellers who wifh for a box at the Pergola, may generally obtain one for eight, ten, or twelve pauls, by applying to Kestori ; unlefs it be on the firfl night of a new opera, or when there is fome un- commonly fine Performer, or when the theatre is illuminated. Every EngJifh Tra- veller pays three pauls for admiffion at the Pergola, over and above the cxpence of a box. Boxes at the Cocomero may generally be had for four or five pauls, by an applica- tion at the Theatre- door about an hour be- fore the reprefentation commences. Every Englifh Traveller pays two pauls for admif- fion, over and above the price of a box. Boxes at the Teatro nuovo may generally be procured in the like manner, for about ten pauls. ARRIVAL APPENDIX. 305 ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OP LETTER- COURIERS. Monday morning early, arrive letters from Naples, Sicily, Rome, Siena, &c. Tuefday morning early, from Rome, Siena, Genoa^ Spain, Lunigiana, Mafla, Leghorn, Piia, Lucca, Piftoja, Prato, Pefcia, Volterra, San-Miniato, and San-Gi- mignario. fPednefday before noon from Germany , Lorenzo, Holland, Flanders, Great-Britain, and all the northen Countries, Turkey in Europe, Switzerland, and the Cifal- pine Republic — in the afternoon from Venice, Ferrara, Bologna, &c. Thurfday morning from Leghorn, Pifa, &c. and later in the day from Ancona, Lucca, Piftoja, Prato, Lucignano, and Fo- jano. Friday afternoon from Perugia, La Marca, Cor- tona, Arezzo, &c. France, Spain, and Genoa. Saturday before noon from Rome, Siena, Leg- horn, Pifa and Lucca — and in the af- ternoon from Prato and Piftoja— late in Vol. II. X tht 30(5 APPENDIX. the evening, and not till Sunday morn- ing during winter, from Germany, Lo- rena, Holland, Flanders, Great-Bri- tain, and all the northern Countries, Turkey in Europe, Switzerland, the Cifalpine Republic, Piedmont, &c. Monday night go letters for Piedmont. Tuefday at noon for Germany, Lorena, Flanders, Holland, Great-Britain, and all the northern Countries — Turkey in Eu- rope, Milan, and the Cifalpine Repub- lic, Switzerland, Pifa, Leghorn, and Lucca, Siena, Rome, Naples and Si- cily. At night for Siena, Rome, Na- ples, and Sicily, Pifa, Leghorn, Lucca, Lunigiana, Maflb, Sarzana, Genoa, Spain, Prato, Piftoja, S. Miniato, and S. Gimignano. IVeJnefday, after the arrival of tlie German Cou- rier, for Siena, and Rome — in the afternoon for Pifa, Leghorn, Lucca, Vol terra, and Pefcia. Thin flay evening for Prato, Piftoja, Fojano, and Lucignano. Friday evening for France and Genoa. 'Saturday at noon for Germany , Lorena, Holland, Flanders, Great-Britain, and all the northern Appendix. 307 northern Countries, Turkey in Eu- rope, Switzerland, the Cifalpine Re- public, &c. In the evening, and during winter, on Sunday morning, to Leghorn, Pifa, Lucca, Siena, and Rome, after the arrival of the German Courier — at night to Pifa, Leghorn, Lucca, Siena, Arczzo, Cortona, Perugia, La Marca, Ancona, Prato, Piftoja, Venice, Bo- logna, Ferrara, &c. Letters neceftary to be franked are — for France, Spain, Flanders, Holland, Lorena, Great-Britain, Germany — all which go be- yond Venice, Mantua, Milan, or Genoa — and all which go to Rome, Naples, and Sicily, on Tuclday night, Wedncfday morn- ing, or Saturday night. Letters which go by the morning-Cou- rier on Tuefday and Saturday mull: be put into the Poft-Officc by twelve o'clock, and thofe which go by the e\ening-CGuner, be- fore eight. X 2 COUNTRY- 308 APPENDIX. COUNTRY-HOUSES NEAR FLORENCE. Villa di S. Francefco di Paola, near the Porta Romana — a comfortable houfc during the months of May and June, but too hot in July and Auguft, though pleafant in September — price demanded, eighteen fe- quins a month, with plate and linen. Villa Mattel, near the Porta S. Gallo — a very large houfe ufually divided into three apartments. — Price for the ground floor, which is fpacious and tolerably cool, eight or nine fequins a month, without plate or linen — the apartments above-flairs let for a lower price, plate and linen inclufive, but thefe rooms are fmaller and hotter than thofe below, though more cheerful. Villa del Cav. Gianfgliazzi, near the Port* S. Gallo — a good houfe in a hot and rather a damp fituation — price demanded, twenty fequins a month with plate and linen. Villa Tavanti del la P'/etra, on t lie Bologna- road — ' APPENDIX. 30g road — a good houfe which the Owner fomc- times lends to Foreigners. Villa Vitelli, at Fief ok — healthy and cool. Villa Baroni, at Fiefole — fmall, and in too elevated a fituation for weak lungs — price, ten fequins a month with plate and linen. Palazzo Bruciarto, near the Porta San Gallo — an excellent houfe in a hot fituation, belonging to Sig. Vincenzio Orsi — the price unfurnifhed, may probably be fix or feven fequins a month; but, with furniture, plate, and linen, perhaps not much lefs than twenty. Villa Careggi de Medici, which likewifc belongs now to Sig. Vincenzio Orsi, who afks fix or feven fequins a month without furniture ; and fix fequins more per month for one bed, chairs, tables, and cheds of drawers. Villa Careggi di Riccardi, about a quarter of a mile from Carrcggi de* Medici, is a charming houfe, in a cool, dry and healthy X 3 fituation ; 310 APPENDIX. fituation ; it confifts of one immenfe floor with fpacious offices beneath, Servants' bedr rooms up-ftairs, and on its roof, a large tower, formerly the enfign of Nobility, now confidered merely as a profpecl-room — every ceiling and every floor is arched. This houfc Hands upon a lawn, encircled by vineyards and olive-gardens ; the foil is gravel, the lawn falls every way, and com- mands a beautiful and extenfive view. The water is unwholefome. The Marchefe iliccardi has lately fold this villa ; biit> while he poffeiTed it, the rent w T as twenty iequins a month, with plate, linen, and every other nccefTary accommodation for a large Family. There are, in this neighbourhood, feveral other Villas which might be hired from midfummcr till the commencement of the vintage, as the Tufcans feldom occupy their country-houfes till the end of September, when the vintage begins. COMMON APPENDIX. 3U COMMON PRICE PAID FOR WASHING, WITHOUT IRONING, IN TUSCANY. Large table-cloth Small ditto - Napkin - Sheets, the pair Towel Kitchen-rubber Kitchen apron Plain (hirt, or ihift Upper-petticoat Under-petticoat Stockings of cotton or thread, the pair Pocket-handkerchief Pockets, the pair Sleeping vvaiftcoat Small things in general, each - White gown Coloured gown Muflin apron Muflin handkerchief Cracic. Quatttini. 2 1 1 3 1 1 1 2 I o 1 2 The price, if linen be ftarched and ironed, is generally fpeaking more than double. X 4 PRICE S12 APPENDIX. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE ROMAN STATE. Every draught -horfe is charged at four pauls a pcft; unlcfs it be a poll-royal, when the price is fix pauls — the only poft-royal in the Roman State is out of Rome. Every pair of horfes muft be driven bv a iroitillion, whofe claim is two pauls a poft, but who will not be contented without four — every faddle-horfe is charged at three pauls a poft, unlefs it be a poll-royal, when the price is. five — every extra draught-horfe is charged at three pauls a poll ; and, to the driver, it is cuitomary to give two pauls, though he has no regular claim. The tariff, while Rome was under Papal Government, directed that Poft-Mafters and Poflillions mould be paid in pczzl duri, or vioneta reale, and that every pezzo duro mould be rec r.oned at ten pauls only ; they were, however, taken at the current value, thouch though Travellers found it more advantage- ous to pay all expences on the road with monetaplattale, which was purchafed to great advantage in foreign itates. ROME. Accounts at Rome, during the Papal Go- vernment, were kept in fcudi and baiocchi ; Bankers giving fo many pauls for the pound ilei i: nr' . according to the exchansrj, which was fixed every Friday afternoon; and they always ufed to pay in bank bi'ls, called cedole ; Perfons wanting cafh being obliged to buy it at an exhorbitant price. The Ro- mans, however, could not legally refufe to take cedole in payment, if the debt amount- ed to above one fcudo, that is one hundred baiocchi, being ten pauls in copper or plutiaJe. It was always prudent to make bargains in fcudi rather than fcquins or dollars, the two laft having no fixed value, a circumitancc which frequently enabled the Romans to impofe upon Strangers. 314 APPENDIX. MONEY OF ROME, JN 1/Q7* A gold fequin, in moneta platiale pauls - - 27, or 2S A Spanifh-dollar, in platiale - 13 A Tufcan crown, in platiale - 13, halo. 5 An old paul - - 13 A baioccho, the tenth part of a paul. MONETA PLATIALE, OR RAD SILVER, COINED BY ORDER OF PIO VI. Pieces of fix panls, marked baiocchi - Co Ditto of 2| pauls, marked 25 Ditto of 1 \ pauls, marked 2 Carlini Romaui Do. of baiocchi^ 7 \, marked 1 CarJ'mo Ramanct COPPER. Pieces marked, baiocchi Ditto marked Ditto marked Ditto marked Ditto marked a 21 2 1 The filvcr of the preceding Popes has the name of mo act a rcak, from being unalloyed. A Spanifti- APPENDIX, 315 A Spaniih- dollar, at the commencement of the year 1/Q3, was worth ten pauls of this money, and thirty of that coined by the pre- sent Pope. Several new coins have been ftruck fmce the Revolution. The Roman pound weight is twelve ounces — the hine, or common meafure, equal to two yards and half a quarter Englifh. r LODGING-HOUSES. Innis's Piazza di Spagna — Two apartments, the lower one very good, the upper one not weather-tight — a good remife. Cocquelixej's on the Corfo — Two good apart- ments, for large Families — a good kitchen and cellar, and a remife, both for horfes and carriages. Merlo's, in Strada Carrozza — A convenient houfe with a kitchen- and remife, but rather noify and cold. Zaccarias', in Strada Condotli — A good apart- ment. The 3J6 appendix. %he DonAteta, Strada Condotti — Fit for a fmall family. Villa Malta, on the Ptncian Hill — A good houfe for a large family, but cold — a kitchen, remife, &c. Many other Lodgings are to be met with, in the Strada delta Croce, on the Pmctan Hill, &c. The price of Lodgings, while the Papal Government continued, was not exhorbi- tant — Margariti ufually demanded about forty paper Jbudi per month for his beft apart- ments, without linen, unlefs it were during the Holy- Week, when the price was higher. Con quel i xe j demanded fixty paper fcudi per month without linen; but this price, was reckoned exhorbitant. The befl Traiteurs during the Papal Go- vernment charged only eight pauls a head for dinner, defert, bread, and wine ; and this dinner ufually furnifhed the Servants of the Family with as much as they could eat. The APPENDIX. 317 The price of breakfaft at a cofTee-houfe was one paul per head — the price of dinner per head at a Tralteurs, three pauls, bread and wine inclusive. The price of a coach by the day was twelve pauls for the Jobman, and four for the Coachman — for the half day, fix pauls for the Jobman, and two for the Coachman. Wages of a Laquais- de-place, from three and a half to four pauls a day, he finding himfelf in every thing — by the half day, two pauls and a dinner. Of a Cook four pauls per day — of a Houfe-maid one paul per day — of a Footman out of livery, wh© is kept in board, bread and wine excepted, eight fcudi per month — of a Groom, from fix to eight fcudi per month, he finding himfelf in every thing. Wood was fold by the cart-load, which in Winter ufually came to about twenty pauls, without por- terage, and this is fix, feven, or eight pauls more, according to where the wood is car- ried. 318 APPENDIX. ried. Bread, beef, pork, wild-boar, poultry, game, and fifh, were cheap and good. The befl fruit and vegetables are to be purchafed in the Piazza Navona — the melons of Pe- rugia are remarkably fine — fo is the Roman broccoli. The wine of Orvietto, (umally fold at fifteen baiocchi the flafk,) is good, but feldom genuine — the wines of Albano and Genzano might, during the Papal Go- vernment, be purchafed at the Scotch -Col- lege, for feven baiocchi the flafk, or twenty - eight pauls the barrel, and is wholefome, becaufe genuine. Spanifh red wine, which is good and wholefome, may be purchafed in the magazines at Ripa Grande, and ufual- ly cofts {ixjcudi the barrel, which contains fixty flafks. Spanifh white wines likewife may be purchafed at Ripa Grande. Roman wax-eandles are good, and may ufually be purchafed for five pauls a pound at the Fab- brica near the Corjini Palace. Roman tal- low-candles are bad ; the ordinary price is eia;ht APPENDIX. 31Q eight balocchi the pound — the candles of Spoleto, when attainable, are good. Oil of the beft quality is rather difficult to be ob- tained ; that fold by the Pope, however, ufed to be good. Vinegar of the bell: fort is fcarce. Sarmiento has a fhop in the Piazza di Spagna, where he fells foreign wines, brandy, rum, tea, fugar, English mallard, wine of Orvietto, &c. he likewife fells Thieves' vinegar. Basttana, hi the Piazza di Spagna, is reckoned the bell: Wine-Merchant. The beft medicines, bark excepted, are to be purchafed at the Gam- bero, behind the Palazzo Raggi — the bell: bark at the Hofphal of S. Spirito — the caf- tor-oil at the Gambero is excellent, the price fifteen balocchi an ounce. Commodi- ties beft worth purchaling at Rome, exclu- sive of works of art, were, during the Papal Government — beaver hats, muffs, {kins for lining and trimming cloaks, &c., gloves, Roman pearls — filks, the prettielt being a kind 320 APPENDIX. kind of taffety one Englifh yard wide, and black filks of this "kind are peculiarly good. Roman broad- cloth, called Cafterino, which ferves tolerably well for Mens' coats and Ladies' habits. Good fhoes and boots are made at R6m& — Long boots uied to be five paper fcudi the pair— fhort boots, for Men, three and a half fcudi- — Ladies* half-boots, of brown or black leather, fifteen pauls the pair — Ladies* fhoes, nine or ten pauls the pair. The general price for making a gown was a fcudo — for making a Lady's great-coat, or habit, two fcudl — for making a Man's coat, nine pauls — waiftcoat, four pauls— fmall-clothes, four pauls. The bell: hatters' Hi ops are on the Cor/b, or at Sa. Maria in Via — muff-mops abound in every ftreet — the befr. Glovers are on the Corfy and in the Piazza Madama — the only Maker of good Roman pearls is Pozzi, in Strada Papale. Silk-fhops — Bevilacqua's, on APPENDIX. 321 on the Corfo, and others in the Piazza Ma- dama. Broad-cloth — Fabbrica di Pawn, a Piazza di Venezia — Fabbrica di Panni, a Piazza di Pafquino. The prices of hats, muffs, &c. ufed to vary according to the aggio on moneta reale, but were always rea- sonable. Plate is remarkably well and cheap- ly made at Rome. Valadier, near S. Luigi di Franceji, is reckoned the beft Sil- verimith. There is a good Ladies' Shoemaker in the Piazza di Spagna, nearly oppofite to the Church of Trinita de Monti. Men's Shoe- maker, Maestro Giacomo, alle Muratte. Mantua-maker, (who likewife makes ha- bits,) Al Popolo incontro lo Sail tore del Papa. There are fevcral good Roman Taylors. Setter of necklaces, ear-rings, &c. Piccoxr, Cafe Bruchate al Corfo. Good writing-paper, called Carta del Leoucino, may be procured on the Corfo, at a mop which nearly fronts Antoninus's column. Vol. II. Y Cameo- $22 APPENDIX. Cameo- workers — Ma n g e r o tt i , Piazza di Spagna — Londini, Strada Laurina — Zucceri, all Otto Cantoni — Pestrini, nello Studio di Volpato. Mofaic- worker — Rinali>i, Sotto la ho- canda dell Acqnila Nera. Print- feller — Volpato. Prints are like- wife fold at the Chalcographie, much cheaper than by Volpato. Here, the prices are- printed in the catalogue, and ten or fifteen per cent, is deducted when you purchafe ftny quantity. Drawings and coloured prints are fold by Mirri, incontro il Palazzo Ber- nini. Sulphurs are to be purchafed of the Ma- ker, by name Dolci, in Strada Condotti. Bankers — Tourlonea, Aquaroni, Castelli, Rom an el li. Surgeon and Apothecary — Batistini, Piazza di Spagna. This Gentleman's medi- cines arc itckhI, and made according; to the Kii»lifli dii] dilatory. Dentifts — Amelia, fnlla APPENDIX. 323 Julia Piazza Farnefe — Bourlotti, tncontro Sa. Maria in Via. The ufual fee given by the Rmoans to medical Men, is three pauls a vifit ; from Foreigners, Phyficians and Dentifh expect a Spanifh dollar — Surgeons five or fix pauls ; the laft, however, are ufually paid when their attendance becomes needlefs. The Theatres at Rome, while the Papal Government continued, were only open during Carnival ; and the price of a box per night was three or four fcudi, the Hirer hav- ing liberty to frank as much Company as it would hold. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LETTER- COURIERS SINCE THE REVOLUTION. The number of Poll- Offices at Rome ufed to be very perplexing, as every Ambaf- fador had his own ; now, however, there is only one Poll-Office. Y 2 Mwltv 324 APPENDIX. Monday arrive, the National-Courier, the Pro- cacci of the Provinces, and the letters from Naples. Tuefday, the Staffelta of Civita-Vecehia. JVednefday, letters from Venice, Lower-Ger- many, and Dalmatia. Thurfday, the National-Courier, and Procacci, and the Milan -Courier, with letters from Lombardy, Switzerland, Ger- many, Great-Britain, Holland, and the Northern Countries, Turin, Florence, &c. — likewife letters from Naples. Friday — letters from Genoa. Saturday— -Civita-Vecehia, Tivoli, Frafcati, and Paleurina. Tuefday goes — the Naples-Courier. Wednesday — the National-Courier and Procacci. Friday — the Courier of Naples and Florence. Saturday — the National-Courier and Procacci, and the letters for Milan, Venice, Tu- rin, and Genoa. Perfons wifliing to convey baggage by water from Rome to Naples, mould apply to Pa dhon G i o v a n n i i) i L u c c a , a Ripa Grande. Th< APPENDIX. 325 The bcft Voiturin is Padron Pasquale da Rapistiello, all Orfo. This man uiually charges one fequin per day for each pair of mules, and pays the pauage of rivers and mountains, but not the buona-mano. The price of warning is rather more rea- fonable here than in Tufcany. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE NEAPOr LITAN-STATE. For every pair of draught-horfes, the charge is eleven carlini ; and for every fad- dle-horfe, five and a half carlini ; unlefs it be a poft-royal, when both draught and faddle-horfcs coir, half as much again. To every Poftillion it is cuftomary to give four carlini ; and to the Hoftler at cvry poft, half a carlino for each pair of horfes. An Englifh coach, or poft-chaife, ufually goes with four horfes. y 3 in 320 APPENDIX. In order to enter the Neapolitan territo- ries, it is neceffary to procure a palTport from the Neapolitan Court, or one of its Miniflers. On quitting Rome for Naples it is needlefs to have your baggage plumbed ; for, on leaving Terracina, (the lafl town in the Roman territories) your only tax is three pauls to the Cuftom-Houfe- Officer, who waits upon you at the inn. At Fondi, the firft town in the Neapolitan dominions, fix carlini, or, at raoft, one Spanifh dollar, given at the Cuftom-Houfe, will generally fccure your baggage from examination. At Capua your pafTport is figncd and examin- ed for the lafl time. At a fmall Cuilom- Houfe, about three miles from Naples, it is ufual to flop travellers ; but nothing need be given here, though, to avoid detention, it is advifable to prcfent the Men with two or three carlini. When you enter the Neapolitan territo- ries APPENDIX. 327 rics pay the poft and expenees at inns in pezzi-duri. MONEY OF NAPLES. Gold Double ounce., in value, 6 ducats, or about one pound fterling. Piece of 40 carlini, 4 ducats. Single ounce, 3 ducats. Piece of 20 carlini 2 ducats. Slher Spanifh dollar, 126 grains. Piece of ]20 grains, marked " 120." Ditto of 100 grains, called a ducat. Ditto of 60 grains, generally marked " 6o." Ditto of 50 grains, marked with the fun and moon. Ditto of 30 grains, marked with a Greek crofs. Ditto of 26 grains, marked with a full moon. Ditto of 24 grains. Ditto of 20 grains, fomc of which were marked " 20," others with thegolden fleece. Ditto of 1 3 grains, marked with a lion. Ditto of 12 grains. Ditto of 10 grain-, being one carllno. Yi Piece 328 APPENDIX. Silver Piece of 5 grains. Copper Piece of 4 grains. Ditto of ]| grains. Ditto of one grain. Ditto of half a grain. Neapolitan Bankers charge fo many pence for every ducat, and keep accounts in ducats and grains. The exchange with London is fixed every Monday at two in the afternoon. Papers, called Bank-Policies, are much ufed in payment, becaufe there generally is an ag- glo on gold and filver ; and, when this is the cafe, two little portable fhops are erecled oppofite to the royal palace ; and in thefe fhops policies are exchanged for money at a lefs confiderable lofs than when Bankers change them. Foreigners mould not pay their own bills at Naples, if they amount to a large fum : for a receipt given in the common way is invalid ; and the only means of being certain not to pay twice over, is to difchargc every debt in bank-policies, writ- ing APPENDIX. 329 ing upon the back of each policy (in Ita- lian) the amount of the fum paid, and for why. Thefe policies are always filed in the rcfpe&ive public banks, and, therefore, if payment of a bill be demanded twice over, you have only to go to the bank from whence your policies were taken, and, upon receiv- ing three grains, the Clerks will fearch for and produce your receipt : but, as Bankers generally underftand thefe matters better than Travellers, it is advifable, at Naples, to let them fettle all accounts of importance. NAPLES. The Neapolitan kiuie, or meamre, is equal to two \ards and a quarter Englifh ; every kane being divided into eight palms. The Neapolitan pound is called twelve ounces ; it is not, however, above ten : but the more common weight is a rololo, bcin^ thirty-three Neapolitan ounces. i.Oi>GIXG- 330 APPENDIX-. LODGING-HOUSES. The price commonly demanded for the beft apartments at Hotels, and other Lodg- ing-Houfes frequented by the Englifh, is from eighty to one hundred and twenty ducats per month, during winter and fpring ; and apartments by the night car not cafily be procured under three or four ducats. I have already mentioned, in Letter XX, the names of the bell: Hotels ; I will, how- ever, add, that The Alhergo Reale (a good houfe in a bleak fituation) is liable to a ■flench from the drains — that The L/one d'Oro, though fmall, is tolerably warm — that The Alhergo di FEmperatore is a good houfe in a damp and cold fituation — that The Aquila Nera is a tolerably good houfe, warmly fituatcd for the fea-fidc, but very- dirty — that The Crocele is a good houfe, but, as it (lands clofe to the tufo-rock, the fituation muft be unhealthy, and the back- rooms APPENDIX. 331 rooms are fo damp as to be fcarcely habit- able — that The l r illa Imperiale, a good houfe, is very near the tufo-rock — that The Villa Aprile, a good lioufe, is fo near the rock as to be extremely unwholefome— • that Li botte, a Wine-Merchant, has an excellent Lodging, but the fituation is ex- pofed, and much too near the rock — and that the En dim Trait eur has a fmall Lodg- ing, near Libottc's, and consequently un- wholclome. There are feveral Lodsrinjr- Houies on the Chaiai. A good dinner at an Hotel is ufuaily charged at eight or ten carlini per head ; Servants' living at three or four carlini per day each — breakfafr. is charged fo high that moil People find their own. The Jobmcn who fupplv Strangers with carriages ufuaily charge as follows. A coach by the month for the whole day, from fifty to fixty ducats, buomi-mano inclufive — by the month for the half- day, from twenty-five to thirty ducats -by 332 APPENDIX. — by the day, from twenty-four to twenty- fix carlirii — four hours in the morning, twelve carlirii — four hours in the evening, twelve carlirii. Coaches thus hired, muft go to Portici, or Pouzoli, if required ; though, if detained long at either place, the Coach- man will demand an extra hiwna-mano. The price of a boat per day is from ten to twelve carlini — ditto of each Waterman per day, four carlini. Wages of a Valet -de-place, four carlini per day — of a regular Footman out of livery, feven or eight ducats per month — of a Houfemaid twelve grains per day — of a Cook, ten or twelve ducats per month. Neapolitan Servants expecl: neither board nor lodging. Perfons who wim to hire a houfe on the Fouria, or in Largo di Cq/kllo, mould employ fome Neapolitan Gentleman to look out for them. The price of the belt houfes in thefe parts of the City is not more than two hundred ducats per annum unfurnifhed ; and the hire of good furniture APPENDIX. 333 furniture does not come to more than ten ducats per month. The price of a carriage per month, when hired by a Neapolitan, feldom amounts to above forty-five ducats. Pcrfons who have their dinner from a Trai- tair may be ferved with a fufficiency for themfelves and their Servants at fix or eight carlini per head. Perfons who keep their own Cook mould not order any particular number of dimes, and pay in proportion ; but, on the contrary, the bargain mould be made thus — " for every Perfon fo much per head, wood, charcoal, and wages incluiive." Provifions are tolerably cheap, bread ex- cepted. The veal of Sorrento is moft excel- lent ; hog-meat, in general, and wild boar in particular, excellent like wife ; poultry and game good ; oyllers good, though per- haps not fo well fattened as in the days of Lucullus. Fifh in general paiics through fo many hands that it feldom is frefh ; the beftfilh, called pefce nob lie, xxzjhirhm, tr':g- 334 APPENDIX* Via y sfoglia, fp'igola dentate, pefce-fpada, cala- maretti, cernia, &c. other fifh not diftin- guifhed by the appellation of pefce nohile, are very good. The fruit, whether frefh or dried, is excellent. It is fuppofed that the ancients ufually ferved their cherries and many other fruits in ice and iced water ; and, perhaps, Travellers would do wifely by adopting the fame plan. There are two Perfons who ufually fupply Foreigners w T ith milk ; the one to be preferred lives under an arch leading to the houfe of the Englifli Miniftcr ; the other in Strada di Clilaia ; thefe Men likewife fell butter, ufuallv charging for a piece, which weighs little more than ounce, one carVino ; but Families wifhing to be fupplied with good butter at a reafonablc price, mould employ one of the Sorrento Boatmen to bring as much as the} may want, which will not coft above five or fix carlini the rot oh. The wines in the environs of Naples are excellent, efpecially that APPENDIX. 335 that of Paufilipo; a barrel, delivered in, cofts twenty-five carlini, and runs nineteen large flafks ; it improves much by keeping, and ftill more by a fea-voyage. This wine, ufually called the common wine of Naples, is purchafed at Paufilipo. The Proccda- wine, of the beft kind, is deemed fupcrior to that of Paufilipo, and fells for a higher price. The wine of Puzzuoli is very good. The wine of the Plain of Capri is excellent, and cofts in the Ifland two ducats per bar- rel. The wine of Ano-Capri (wholefome but weak), is frequently paffed off upon Foreigners for the former. A barrel of Ca- pri-wine delivered at Naples comes to about twenty-eight carlini. Each barrel contains fixtv flaik^. The wine of Piedimonte is of two kinds, fvvect and dry, both are fold for one car lino the flafk, as is the Lagrima. The wine of S. Eufemia is highly efteemed, and keeps forever ; it coils thirrv-two car- lini the barrel. Good Malaga may eaiilv ue 33(5 APPENDIX. be procured at fix ducats the riibbio, which mcafure runs about fixtecn or fevcnteen Englifh bottles. The wine of Syracufe may eafily be procured, turns out cheap, and is remarkably fine. Tea and fugar are very dear ; coffee eight or nine carlini the rot oh. The beft Holland-cheefe (which refembles Chefhire), may be purchafed at fix carlini the rotolo. The oil of Capri is excellent, and ufually cofts about three du- cats and a half the barrel, delivered in. Fire-wood is fold by the kane, and varies in price according to its quality — the beft often cofts eighteen ducats the kane, which contains fixty-four palms ; it being a rule to have the kane fquare every way. — Fag- gots for lighting fires, arc fold in the mops at one grain each ; but may be purchafed half as cheap again if bought of the peafants who fupply the mops. Wax-candles are about five carlini the pound — tallow-candles eleven grains the pound at the fabbrica — twelve APPENDIX. 337 twelve in the fhops — lamp-oil fix grains the mezzo-quarto. Common writing-paper of the country is nineteen or twenty grains the quint erne, which confrfts of twenty- four meets ; Dutch and Englifh paper considera- bly dearer. In Strada magglore there is a good circulating Library, kept by Giuseppe Meraxde ; fubfeription twelve carlini per month. The beft Phyficians are faid to be Dr. Nudy, and Dr. Cotugno. The ope- ration of bleeding is not performed by a Surgeon, as in other countries, but by Per- fons who follow no other employment. An ounce is the ufual fee given bv Foreigners to a Phyfician ; and a pezzo-du.ro to a Bleeder. Medicines at Naples are bad and dear. Commodities beft worth purchafing are, common filks, four palms wide, and ufually about twenty-three or twenty-three and an half carlini the kanc — filk, called the King's, and fomewhat richer than the other, three palms wide, and about twenty-fix carlini the Vol. II. Z kanc. 338 APPENDIX. kane. Cotione c ft fa, a flrong warm things which wafhcs and makes rood common gowns or habits, three palms wide, and from eleven to fourteen carlhu the kane. — Ribbands, all of which are numbered, and the prices fixed according to the breadth : No. i 1 is eight-penny breadth, and grains fixty-two and an half the kane — No. 9 is fix-penny breadth, grains forty — No. 0, four-penny breadth, grains twenty-fix No. 3, two-penny breadth, grains ten. Sor- rento gauzes for gowns, from five to feven carlhu the kane, arc ftrong and warn nearly as well as mufhn — common Sorrento erauze, for mofchetto nets, is twenty-fix grains the kane. Sorrento filk {lockings arc the ilrongefl in Europe, and coll from eighteen: to twenty -three carlhil the pair, according to their fize. Naples foap, made at the convent of Monte Oliveto, is fold at one car- lhu the ounce — common filks arc fold in ilrcets near Largo di Ca/lcl/o, which con- tain appendix; 339 tain little elfc but filk and ribband fhops. At the Sed'ile di Porta, likewife, there are good filk /hops. The King's filk is ibid at the Fabbrica reak in Strain Toledo, where alfo are fold rich and expenfive gauzes, and trimmings for court dreffes. Cottone e Seta is fold in ftreets near the filk fhops. Naples is likewife famous for its manufactures of tortoife-fhell,and mufical inflrument firings. Perfons who hire a box at any of the Nea^ politan Theatres have liberty to frank as much Company as the box will contain. The price of admittance into the parterre at the theatre of S. Carlo is three carl'im when the houfe is not illuminated, and five when it is ; Gentlemen who prefer front feats, however, pay an extra- car lino. The ufual price of a box in the firfl or fecond row is twenty carl'im on a common night, and double that fum when the houfe is illumi- nated. The price of a box in the third and fourth row is from ten to fifteen carl'im. Z 3 The 340 APPENDIX. The price of admittance into the parterre at every other Theatre is two carlini, except it be when Punchonello exhibits, and then the admittance is diminimed to fifteen grains. But though Pwichonello does not eflimate himfelf fo highly as other Performers, his merit is fuch that, generally fpeaking, more amufement maybe derived from feeing him, than from attending any of the other Thea- tres ; he ufually exhibits at the Teatro-nuovo, and at S. Car lino ; his price at the former being ten or twelve carlini for the beft boxes, and at the latter ftill lefs. When plays are reprefented, the ufual price at the Fiorentino is ten or twelve carlini for the beft boxes — when operas arc reprefented, the price is confiderably higher. The bell: method of applying for a box is to fend to the Theatre on the morning of the day of reprefenta- tion. ARRIVAL APPENDIX. 341 ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OP LETTER-COU- RIERS AND PKOCACCI. Sunday arrive letters from Italy and Germany — hi the afternoon goes the Courier and the Procaccio of Ci lento. Monday and every other day, Sunday excepted, arrives and goes the Courier and Pro- caccio of Salerno. Tuefday arrive letters from Ban, Lecce, Fog- gia, Lucera, and Manfredonia — like- wife the Procaccio* of Melfi, Nocera, Materdomini, and Sanfeverino. In the evening go letters to Italy, Ger- many, and Great-Britain. IVednefday arrive the Procacci of Rome and Cilento goes the Procaccio of Melfi. Thurfday arrive letters from Spain, Italy, Ger- many, and France — MeiTina, Paler- mo, Malta, and Calabrie — Bafilicata, Sora, and Campo-baffo ; likewife the Procaccio of Bari, Lccce, Foggia, Lu- cera, Abruzzi, Calabrie, Bafilicata, Sora, and Campo-baflb. Friday night, goes the Procaccio to Rome. Z 3 Saturday 342 APPENDIX. Saturday morning arrives the Procaccio of No- cera, Materdomini, and Sanfeverino— go the Procacci of Bari, Lecce, Abruz- zi, Foggia, Bafilicata, Sora, and Campo-batfb — go the letters of Sora and Campo baflb. At night, go the Procacci of Calabrie, Nocera, Mater- domini, and Sanfeverino — and of Bari, Lecce, Abruzzi, Foggia, Bafi- licata, Sora, and Campo-baflb — go, likewife, the letters of Sora and Cam- po-baflb. At night go the Procacci of Calabrie and Nocera, Materdomini, Sanfeverino and Monte-Sarchio. At night go letters for Italy and France,- Mdlina, Calabrie, Palermo and Mal- ta — Bari, Tarento, Lecce, Luccra, Foggia, Bafilicata, and Abruzzi. During fummqr the Procacci fet oiT on the Friday night inflead of the Saturday morning. On the firfl Saturday in every month go letters for Ragufa and Conftan- tinoplc. Every letter that is franked for England pay., fix grains. WafhliiG APPENDIX. 343 Warning is more expensive here than in many other Cities of Ital) . SORRENTO. Lodging-houfcs may eafily be procured at rcafonable prices in the neighbourhood of Sorrento, but they are, in general, unfur- nimed. The houfe of Don Raffaele Starace, at S. Agnelli), is however, com- fortably furni (lied, and may be hired at twenty-fix ducats per month ; it contains feven rooms above flairs, a kitchen, and one bed-room below ; and what is of far more importance, the Mailer is fo refpecta- ble a character, as is his Mother, who reiides chiefly at S. Agnello, that Foreigners, when under their protection, can never want Friends. The houfe of Dux Cristoiaxo Si'ixellt, at Vonte Miiggtire, contains comfortable apartments; but the Mailer bears fo bad a character that it is uneligible tor Foreigner? to become his Tenants ; this Z -i houfe, 344 APPENDIX. houfie, however, has the advantage of being furnifticd ; the price demanded is thirty ducats per month. Houfes unfurnlihed, go at ten, fifteen and eighteen ducats per month. Veal, bread, butter, milk, fifh, fruits, and water, are all excellent in this country ; and hoc:-meat is fo remarkably fine, that hogs arc denominated, the Citi- zens of Sorrento. Ice is cheap and plentiful — hams and bacon fell for three carlini the rot oh — butter is five or fix carlini the roiolo — fine oil of three years old, thirty-five grains the rotolo. Families who remove irom {Na- ples to the neighbourhood of Sorrento dur- ing the fummer-fcafon, would do well to take with them wine, vinegar, candles, foap, fugar, tea, coffee, and medicines. Boats go daily from hence to Naples, and every Pa- r>i:o.\ of a boat may be trufted to execute commiffions, and bring letters and money for Foreigners. The Sorrento boats go daily at three in the morning, and again at ten. The S. Aenello and Mcta boat- fo more ir- APPENDIX. 345 regularly. It is much fafer to embark at Sorrento than at Meta, there being a dan- gerous furf on the latter fliore. When the weather prevents the boats from going to Naples, the boatmen will travel thither over-land and back again in fevcn or eight hours for one ducat. The price paid by each PalTenger in the common boat is ten grains. There is a tolerable Phyfician in the neighbourhood of Sorrento, andfeveral good Bleeders, who never expect more, even from an Englifh Family, than a fee of five carl'im — the Natives pay only two, if they are rich, and one, if they are poor. The beft me- thod of conveying a family to Sorrento is to hire one of the palTage-boats, and embark at Naples about mid-day, at which time the wind is generally favourable. Pcrfons who are fond of rowing upon the fea, will find great amufement in examining the coait of Sorrento, and the Bay of Salerno, which lies j fmall diftancc beyond Meta. PRICE 340 APPENDIX. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN PIEDMONT AND SAVOY. For every pair of draught-horfes the charge is five Piedmontcfe livres ;* for every faddle-horfe, two livres ; arid to each Pof- tillion, Travellers ufually give about one livre and a half per poll. ESTABLISHED PRICES FOR THE PASSAGE OF MOUNT-CENIS. Firft Jeafon, namely, from the frrit of May to the laft of October, incluiive — For every Porter, from Lanilebourg to Novalefa, and vice verfa, three livres — from Novalefa to La Grand- Croix, one livre ten fols — from Novalefa to La Ilamaffe, two livres — from Lanilebourg to La IlamafTe, £.1. 5. — From Lanilebourg to La Grand Croix, £a . J 2. G. Second feaf on, namely, from the firft of No- * A Piedmontcfe livre is about one milling F.nglifh, vcmber APPENDIX. 347 vembcr to the lafr. of April, inclufive — From Lanflebourg to Novalcfa, and vice verfa, three livrcs ten fols — from Novalefa to La Grand-Croix, £. 1 . 15. — from Novalefa to La RamafTe, £.2. 5. — from Lanflebourg to La Ramaffe, £.1. 10. — from Lanflebourg to La Grand-Croix, £.2. Price otthcTraineaux- Guides — from La Grand-Croix to La Ra- maffe, and vice ver/a, the mule inclufive, £.2. — for the Man who directs the traineau from La RamafTe to Lanflebourg, £.1. Price of every faddle-mule and Guide, from Lanf- lebourg to Novalcfa, and vice verfa, during the jirjl fcafon, £.2. 10. — during the fecond fcafon, f.S. Price of every porter-mule (not carrying more than fourteen rubbi of Pied- mont,) from Lanflebourg to Novalefa, and vice ver/a, fir ft fcafon, £.3. — fecond fcafon, £..?>. 10. Mules carrying between fourteen and fixtcen rubbi, firjl fcafon, £.3. 10. — fe- cond fcafon, £.A. The Muleteers are included in thcie charges. Price of mountim: or dil- mounting 3 18 APPENDIX. mounting a carnage with four wheels, £.2. 10. the Director of the Mountain being bound to replace every thing that is either loft or broken. It is cuftomary for every Traveller who is carried in a chair over Mount-Cenis, to give the Porters about three livres as a buona^-mano. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN GERMANY. Every draught-horfe, throughout Hun- gary and Bohemia, is charged at forty-five kreutzers a poft ; in other parts of the im- perial dominions, and indeed throughout the reft of Germany, at fixty kreutzers, be- ing one florin a poft. Every Poftillion in Hungary, Slavonia, Bannat, and Tranfyl- nia, has a right to fifteen kreutzers a poft, driving only two horfes ; twenty-two, driv- ing three ; and thirty, driving four. Every Poftillion, in Bohemia and Auftria, has a right to feventcen kreutzers a poft, driv- ing APPENDIX. 340 ing only two horfes ; twenty-four, driving three ; and thirty-four, driving four. It is, however, cuftomary to give from forty to forty- fire kreutzers to every Driver of one pair of horfes, fifty to every Driver of three horfes, and fixty to every Driver of four. In Hungary, Slavonia, Bannat, and Tranfvlnia, the price for greafing wheels, if greafe be found by the Traveller, is four kreutzers per carriage ; if not, twelve kreut- zers. In Bohemia and Auftria the price is fix kreutzers per carriage, if greafe be found by the Traveller, and fourteen if it be not. Carriages are generally greafed at every poft. In Germany allow near four hours for every poll — in the Low-Countries two.* The bell: money for Travellers to take from Tufcany into Germany, is Jbvranes, which may ufually be purchafed in a Ger- * Poll-Mailers in the imperial territories arc obliged to take Vienna Bank-bills. man- 350 APPENDIX. maft-Jllop near the Pott-Office at Florence; and in many other fhops, for fixty-two or fixty-three pauls each, and fometimes for lefs. (Every fovrane at Venice and through- out the imperial dominions, is worth fixty- feven pauls and a half.) Imperial fequins, •which cofh twenty-one pauls at Florence, and are worth twenty-three at Venice Dutch fequins, which like wife coil: twenty- one pauls, and are worth twenty-three at Venice. Spanifh-dollars, which coll nine and a half pauls at Florence, and are worth ten and a quarter at Venice. Roman and Tufcan fequins are w r orth twenty-three pauls each at Venice, and Francefcovi go for ten pauls and a half. Note, that the paul at Venice is called a livrc, and divided into twenty fols. The imperial paul is divided into twelve krcut-< zers. The florin is equal in value to about two millings Englifh. Travellers APPENDIX. 351 Travellers going from Tufcany to Ham- burg, mould have their baggage plumbed at Florence, and pay five pauls ; and plumb-* ed again at the entrance of the Cifalpine Republic, and pay five pauls. At the gate of Bologna a prefent of five pauls is expedit- ed. At Fcrrara, on quitting the town, Tra- vellers ufually give five pauls ; and on crofT- ing the Canal-Bianca five pauls. VENICE. The bell: apartments at Petrillo's, and other inns, are fifteen or fixteen livres a day —and dinner is ufually charged at eight pauls a head. The price of a gondola, hnona-mano in- clufive, is ten livres a day ; each gondola has two Rowers, and contains four Perfons, who may be juft as well fecurcd from wea- ther as in a coach ; thefe boats being moil. conveniently fitted up with glaiics, Vene- tian 352 ATPENDIX. tian, and other blinds ; they likewife arc furnifhed with elegant lantherns at night. The wages of a Valet -de-place is five or fix livres per day. The artielcs bell; worth purchafmg at Ve- nice are — gold chains, fold by weight ac- cording to the price of gold ; (in payment for thefe chains a Jbvrane, when I w r as at Venice, went for fixty-cight pauls and a half.) Wax-candles, which ufually fell for between three and four livres the pound. Mocha-coffee — chocolate-pafte, made of melon-feeds, for warning the fit in — glafs — - books — and maps. DEPARTURE OF LETTER-COURIERS. At Venice, every Nation has its feparate Pott-Office. The Englifh Courier goes on Wednefday and Friday evening — the Cou- riers of other countries on Saturday evening. GERMANY. APPENDIX. 353 GERMANY. Money of the imperial territories. Sovrane - pauls 67 f Ducat - florins 4| Crown - or piece of florins 2, and kreutzers lG Piece of kreutzers - 34 Ditto of ditto - 18 Ditto of ditto - 17 Ditto of one paul, or kreutzers 12 Ditto of kreutzers ^ 10 Ditto of ditto - 5 Ditto of one gros, or kreutzers 3 Ditto of kreutzers - 1 An imperial fequin and a ducat generally are fynonymous ; fometimes, however, aft imperial fequin is only four florins and thirty kreutzers — other fequins pafs for four flo- rins and twenty-eight kreutzers — the con- vention-dollar pafles for two florins through- out Germany. Bankers' accounts are kept in florins. It is generally difficult to procure much gold Vol. II. A a or 354 APPENDIX. or filver, without paying an aggio for it ; but the Vienna-bank-bills, many of which are as fmall as five florins each, pafs current every where throughout the imperial terri- tories, and are always readily changed into filver. VIENNA. The pound-weight at Vienna is eighteen ounces. The common meafure, called a braccio, is fomewhat longer than that of Florence. At The white Bull we paid for fix rooms, and dinner for three Perfons, bread, wine, and beer, not inclufive, twelve florins per day— for linen, bread, beer, and table wine, fix florins per day — for a job-carriage two florins and a half per day, giving a fmall prefent to the Coachman when we quitted Vienna — for a Valet- de-place one florin per day. There are in this City excellent hackney- appendix. 3r>r> hackney-coaches at fo much an hour, and good fedan-chairs, into which the Sick can- not be admitted. There likewife are feveral ffood Phvficians and Surgeons ; and amoncr the former a Gentleman, by name Del Carro, who ftudied at Edinburgh, and fpeaks Englifh. The fhops at Vienna are richly furniilied. The articles bell worth purchafmg feem to be, eyder-down black-lace, furs, Bohe- mian kcrfeymere, and men's cloth. Eyder- down is ufually fold at nine florins the pound. Broad black lace from three to five pauls the braccio. Kerfeymere, if dyed in grain, three florins and three quarters the braccio — if not, three florins and one quarter. The ufual price in the parterre at the opera-houfc is one florin ; but, upon extra- ordinary occasions, two — the ufual price of a box one ducat., but, upon extraordinary occafions, two. \ a 2 I vv 35(3 APPENDIX. I would counfel Travellers to part with their Voiturins at Vienna, and go poft from thence to Drefden, the Polt-Mafters be- tween the above-named Cities being fo fpiteful to the Voiturins, that the latter can neither procure extra-horfes nor any other necefTary accommodation on the road. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LETTER- COURIERS. Monday morning, arrives the port from Italy, Spain, France, and Great-Britain. TuefJay morning, from Saxony, and the northern Countries. Thurfday morning, from Italy. Saturday morning, from Saxony. Monday evening at three o'clock, goes the poft to Italy. IVednefday evening, to Saxony, and the northern Countries, Spain, France, and Great- Britain. Thurfday evening, to Italy. Saturday evening, to Spain, France, and Great- Britain. Th< APPENDIX. 35/ The polls of the imperial dominions in Germany arrive and depart daily. A Diligence goes to Prefburg at eight o'clock every morning ; another to Italy at half pall feven every Monday morning ; and another to Prague and Drefden at nine o'clock every Tuefday morning. PRAGUE. The articles bell; worth pur chafing here are, Silefia lawns, and other linen — Bohe- mian luftres, and other glafs. There are good hackney-coaches in this City. DRESDEN. MONEY OF SAXONY. Ducat worth florins 4j Crown, or convention-dollar florins 2 Florin • gros 1 (3 Half-florin - gros S Quarter-florin _ "■''as 4 A a 3 Tw WJ 308 APPENDIX. Two gros-piece, marked 12, that number making one dollar.* One gros-piece, marked 24, that number making one dollar. Half-gros-picce, marked 48, that number making one dollar. Piece of 3 pfennings. Piece of 1 pfenning. Bankers' accounts are kept in dollars and gros, the former being an imaginary coin, worth one florin and a half. Spanifh-dollars do not pafs here. The pound-weight of Drcfden is {ixteeii ounces — the aune, or common meafurc, two feet — and the foot twelve inches. The beffc apartment at the Hotel dc Pologne lets at one ducat per day — thofe of a fmaller fize are, of courfe, more reafona- ble. Dinner is commonly charged at one florin per head, though Travellers may be Thefe arc not convention- dollars, hut thofc in which accounts arc kept. tolerably APPENDIX. 359 tolerably ferved at twelve gros. The wages of a Valet- de-place is one florin a day. The bell; Traiteurs are Plan, in the Wtlifche Gaffe, who gives a good dinner at eight gros per head — and Geyeu, in the fame Jireet, who keeps a Table d'Htite, at eight gros per head. Vo gel, in the Scheffel- gajfc, likcwife is a good Traiteur, and keeps a Lodging-Houfe. Perfons who have their dinner from a Traiteur fhould order it at twelve o'elock, that being the ufual dinner hour. A carriage for the whole day is about three florins — for the half- day, two florins and four gros. The price of a fedan-chair in the Old Town is two gros for going to any part of it ; and two for returning — in the New- Town exacfly double — and the Chairmen charge one gros for every quarter or* an hour when they are kept waiting. A a 4 Wine 300 APPENDIX. Wine of the country is ufnally charged at ten gros a bottle, and bottled beer at two gros and fix pfennings. The articles bell: worth purchafmg in this City are, black and white thread-lace, and maccaroni — the two firfl may be had of the Makers — the laft of Bertoli, at his Italian manufacture. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LETTER- COURIERS. Sunday afternoon arrive letters from Vienna, Prague, &c. ; and likewifc from Great - Britian, France, Holland, Ham- burg, Amflerdam, Flanders, Hanover, Brunfwick, &c. Tuefclay morning, from Italy, the Tyrol, Switzer- land, &c. Wednefday afternoon, from Vienna, Prague, See. Thurfday afternoon, from Holland,, Flanders, Hamburg, he. Sunday morning, at eight o'clock, the poft goes to Hamburg with letters for Great-Bri- tain, &c. Monday APPENDIX. 301 Monday afternoon, at three o clock, to Holland, and Flanders ; and at fix ; to Prague, Vicnna,&c. Venice, Italy, and Switzer- land. Wednefday, at noon, to Holland, France, Den- mark, he. Friday, at one in the afternoon, to Prague, Vienna, &c. Thurfday morning, at eight o'clock, the Diligence goes to Hamburg — and on Wed- nesday morning, at the fame hour, to Prague and Vienna. Letters mult be fent to the poft one hour, and parcels two hours, before the Courier fets out. Letters for Great-Britain pay eight gros each. HAMBURG. MONEY OF HAMBURG. Accounts are kept in marks and fchillings ; a mark being from fixtcen to eighteen-pence En dim, 3(52 APPENDIX. Engliih, according to the exchange ; and a fchilling the fixteenth part of a mark. Convention-dollars do not pafs for quite two florins at Hamburg, no money being current but that of Hamburg and Den- mark. The pound-weight is fixteen ounces. Hamburg contains an excellent French Traiteur, who fends out dinners at all prices. We paid a crown a head for dinner without wine, and fix marks a day for our Lodging. The common price for dinner at an inn is two marks a head. Claret is good and cheap, being ufually fold at two marks a bottle. Almoil every article of commerce may be purchafed at Hamburg ; but, though exempt from port-duties, things in general arc dear, cambric excepted. ROUTES, APPENDIX. 303 ROUTES,* &c. ROUTE, EN V01TURIER, FROM PISA TO MASSA AND CARRARA, WITH AN ENGLISH POST-CHAISE AND FOUR HORSES. Ila- Reggio—mdcs 1 Qt ) Road good in fummcr, hours 61 " but very Tandy. Inn ap- pears clean, town clean, but not in a healthy fitu- ation. Between Pifa and this place you pafs the Scrchio in a Ferry, and unlcfs you bargain that your Voiturin fhall pay the expence, you will be im poled upon. PJelra-Satita-mWcs 6 ( Road g ood > but VC, T hours 1 i ^ Tandy. Near to Pietra- Santa, is a marlh. the air from which is very un- wholefome, particularly towards fun-fet. The inn at Pietra-Santa is * Sleeping- places are marked with a crols, thus. + . t A Tufcan mile is fuppofed to be 1000 geometrical paces ; a Roman mile nearly the fame ; that is, about 1 50 yards fliort of an Knglifh mile ; and the Neapoli- tan mile is longer thaa the Englifh bv about 249 yards, quite 364 APPENDIX. quite at the end of the town, and may be called clean and comfortable ; it therefore is, in point of convenience, a better fleeping-place than Maf- fa, though the air and fituation of the latter town are infinitely pre- ferable to Pietra-Santa ; befides which, by going to Mafia over night, you have abundant time next day to fee Carrara. The Churches and Convents at Pietra-Santa deferve notice. Near this town are rocks of yellow mar- ble veined with black. Majfa - - miles 7 } Road very good-inn, hours \\] La P There is another road to Ober-Laybach. Unf march Judenburg Knittelfidd Grauhath Leobcn Bruck \ The po#-map fays, only one pott. \ One poft only, by the map. l Polls. Leber mg 400 APPENDIX. Lebering KahJJdorff - - Gralz - Pegau - - Rote/iein Brack on the Muhr Mortjhofen - Krieglach Meerzufchlag Schottzvein Neukirchen - Neujiadt Drajkirchen Vienna Knzerfdorf Stockerau Malkbern Hullabrwin Jezelfdorf Znaym - Freinerfdorf Budzvifz Schellefau Slamicrn Iglau Sleken Dmtfchbrodt Pofts. \ One poft only, by the map. Sh'hl/Jorjf AP PENDIX. Polls. Steinfdorff - Jenikau - Czaflau - Collin - Planian - Bbhm-brod - Bichowitz - Prague - Sarzedokluk - Schlan - Tehiitz - Pojleiberg - Toplitx - Peterfwald - 1 J Zehifi - Dresden - Meijfen - n Stauchitz - if Hubertjburgy or } 14 Wermjdorjf 4- fVurtzen - Leipzig - If Landjberg - <] 3 Co then - Kalbe - i£ Magdeburg - ii Burgjlall <- ,~j 2 Stetidal - 1 Vol. II. Dd 401 Ojltiburg 402 APPENDIX Polls. OJierburg - If uirendfee - 1 Lenzen - If Lubten - n Boltzenburz - i Efcheburg - i Hamburg - n Route, going pqft, from Florence, through MANTOVA to CuXHAYEN. Fonte-buona 1 Cafagioh 1 Monte- Carelli 1 Covigliajo 1 Filicaje 1 Lojano J Fianoro If Bologna - If Samoggia H Mod en a if Carpi if Novi l S. Betieih tto j Mantov \ H Roverbella l If Beft inn, g The F eh- «r'mo. The Pofl. Verona APPENDIX. 403 Ports. Verona - 1\ The due Tore. Volarni - H Ben - i* Ala - H Roveredo - 1| TheRofa. Acqua-viva - l Tretito - l\ The Eur of a. Sal urn « H Neumarck - 1 Branzol - 1 Bolzen - 1 The Fojl. TeutJ'chen - 1 Cohnan - 1 Brixen - 1 Ober-Mittewald - 1 Storzhipen - 1 Brenner - 1 Steinach - 1 Schonherg - 1 Ixspruck* - 1 The Aquila iVora. Zirl - 1 Delfs - 1 Memin? - 3 4 * You may likewife go from Infpruck to Dirfchenback - - I Barwis \ Nazareith l D d 2 Nazareith 404 APPENDIX, Pofts. Nazareitk - - 1 Lermos - H Reith - 1 Fuefen •j l Saumeifter - U Schwcebbruck ~ 1 Schwabdijfen - l Hurlach - l Augsbuhg - If The tre Mori. MeitJingen - n Donauwert - H Nordlingen - - If Dunckeljpuhl - 1 Cre'iljheim - If BJaufelden - If Mergentheim - 1 Bifchofjheim - If Wurtzburg - 1* Hotel dc Frar. Carlftadt-MiUs - 3 * Tlamelburg - 3 Bruckenau - - 3 Fulda - 4 Jliinefeld - 2 * In Upper and Lower Saxony, Brandenfciirg, Heffc, &c. you are charged by the mile, and not, by the poft. Five Englifh miles make about one Ger- man mile, and two German miles one poft. Vachit APPENDIX. *9f Polls. Vacha - 3 Berka - 2 Eifenach - 2 Liderbach - - 2 Bifchhaufen - 2 Helfen - 3 Cassel or If Hdtel dAngUttrre. Munden a 2 Gottingen - 3 Nordheim - 2 Eimbek m 2 Bruggen • 3 Dia-TViefe n 2 Hanover * - 2 Hanftade t 2 Hddemfdorf - 2* Waljrode - 2 Rotenburg - 3 Clojler-Sceven - 3 Bremerv'dhrde - 3 Bederkefa - 3 ftjuenwuld • If Qixhiiven - » NOTES NOTES. Note, referring to Villa Riccardi df Medici. We fpent a fummer at this Villa, and once, dur- ing the vintage, invited the furrounding Peafantry to a dance. Our ball-room was a lofty hall, fixty feet by thirty, and in the centre of the cieling hung a luf- tre compofed of fuch light materials, that every puff of wind gave it motion ; indeed, it had the appear- ance of being turned round by an invifjble hand : tlris luftre we filled with candles ; and the walls, (on which hung full-length portraits of the Medici- Princes,) we decorated with feftoons of vines, flowers, and lamps, fo that the whole apartment refembled an illuminated arbour. At fun-fet on the appointed day our guefts appeared all together upon a lawn which encircles the Villa, preceded by their own band of muflc ; which, no fooner ftruck up a lively tune, than the Dancers prefented themfelves at the hall-door, forming, as they entered, a quadrille, which would have been admired on any Opera-itage, efpecially as the drefTes of the female Dancers were beautiful. No fooner was this exhibition over, than all the women advanced in couples to the top of the hall, where we were featcd, paying their compliments to us with as much elegance as if they had been bred in a Court. After this ceremony we had another qua- drille, different from, but quite as pretty as the firft ; and with a fucceffion of thefe dances we were amufed till fupper, after which our Vifitors, who had been regaled with Englim punch, a liquor they particularly relifh, came once more to us, when the Women gracefully NOTES. 407 gracefully ruturned thanks for their entertainment ; and then killing our hands, and prefenting tlieir own to their Partners, bowed and retired. The following Story may -perhaps ferve to Jhcvj the grateful and delicate turn of mind pojfcjfed by the Tufcan Peafantry. One day, as I was walking with my Family near Careggi, we law a Girl, perhaps ten or twelve years of age, watching a flock of goats, and at the fame lime fpinning with great diligence ; her tattered gar- ments befpoke extreme poverty, but her air was dig- nified, and her countenance lb interelling, that we were irrefiftibly impelled to prefent her with two or three cracie. Joy and gratitude inflantly animated her fine eyes, while, to our aftonifhment, the ex- claimed : " Never, till this moment, was I worth lb much money ?" Struck by her manner, we enquired her name , afking, likewife, where her Parents lived. " My name (replied me,) is Teresa ; but, alas, I have no Parents !" " Who, then, takes care of you :" *' The Madonna." " But who brought you up ? " *' A Peafant of Valombrola ; I was her Nurfe-Child ; I have heard her fay my Parents delivered me into her care, but that the did not know their name. As I grew up flic almolt ltarvcd me , and, what was frill worfe, beat me fo cruelly, that at length I ran away from her." " And where do you live now r" " Yon- der, in the plain ; (pointing to Val d'Arno.) I have luckily found a Miftrefs who feeds mc and lets me fleep in her barn : this is her flock. ' ? <; And are you happy now ?" " O yes, very happy — at firft, to be fure. 40$ NOTES. fure, 'twas Ionefome lying in the barn by myfelf, 'tis fo far from the houfe ; but I am ufed to it now ; and indeed I have not much time for fleep, being obliged to work at night when I come home ; and I always go out with thcfe goats at day-break : however, I do very well, for I get plenty of bread and grapes, and my Miftrefs never beats me." Having learnt thus much, we prefented our new- Acquaintance with a paul ; but to defcribe the extafy this gift produced is impoffible — " Now, (cried fhe, when a flood of tears had enabled her to fpeak) now, I can purchafe a Corona* — now, I can go to mafs, and petition the Madonna to preferve the good Ladies at Careggi. On taking leave of this grateful Girl, we defired fhe would fometimes pay us a vifit ; but, to our fur- prize, we neither faw nor heard of her again till the day before our departure from Careggi, when it ap- peared that, immediately after her interview with us, Ihe had been feized with the natural fmall-pox, and, though unaffifted by medicine, air and low living had at length reftored her to health. During the next fummer, we again refided at Careggi ; but, for a confiderable time, faw nothing of Teresa; one day, however, we obferved a beautiful white goat browfing near our gate, on opening which, we perceived our Protegee with her whole flock. We eagerly enquired why wc had not feen her before — (t I was fearful of obtruding (replied fhe) but I have watched you at a diilaoce Ladies, ever lince your re- turn ; and I could not forbear coming a little nearer * Without a Corona fhe informed us that fhe could not b* per- mitted to go to mafs. thafy NOTES. 40> than ufual to-day in the hope that you might notice me. We now prefented her with a fcudo, and en> - treated that me would fometimee call upon us. " No, Ladies, (anfwered the fcrupulous Girl) I am not pn j- perly drefTed to enter your doors ; but with the mon ey you have kindly given me, I mall immediately p» ur- chafe a flock of flax, and then, if 1 mould have he* ikh to work very hard, I may foon be able, by felling my thread, to get decent apparel and wait upon you, clothed with the fruits of your bounty." And ii*deed it was not long ere we had the pleafure of feeing her come to vifit us neatly clad, and exhibiting a piiluxe ©f contentment. The following route may deferve the notice o£ the traveller, in connection with the route goings poft from Geneva to Turin, given at page 395. Route, going pojl, from Turin over the Marii :ime Alps to Nice. ] a Torino a Carignano - Pofls •ii Racconigi - li Savigliano - 1 Cent alio - li CoNI - I BorgoS. Dalmazza 1 Limone - I Tenda - 2 Breglio - h Sofpello - - H Scareno - j4 NlZZA - l i THE END. T. GiJlet, Printer, Salisbury- Square*' NEW PUBLICATIONS. f TJw tinder-mentioned valuable and inter ejting Books have been publl/hed, fince the Commencement of the prefent Winter, by R. Phillips, No. 71, St. Paul's Church- yard ; and may be had of all Book/tilers. I. In two elegant Volumes, foolfcap 8Yo. price 9s. (Embelliftied with Two Vignette Titles, anil with Fac Similes of the Hand-Writings of Mr. Gray ant! Mr. Walpole) WALPOLIANA, Confiding of original Bon Mots, Apophthegms, Oblt-rvations on Life and Literature, with Extracts from unpubliflied Letters of the late HORACE WALPOLE, EARL OF ORFORD. Thefe Vol'imes are the Production of a Gentleman for many years in habits of intimacy with Mr. Walpole. The articles are none of them fe- lefred iron 1 any published Works, but are partly drawn up from a Collection of Bon M^ts, &c. in his own hand-writing ; partly from Anecdotes writ- ten down with his approbation, after long conversation-, in which he would difplay thofe treafures of Anecdote with which his Rank, Wit, and Op- portunities had replenifhed his memory; and partly irom his unpubliflied Letters to the Compiler, on fubjects of Tafte and Literature. Prefixed is a Life of the Earl of Orford. II In one large Volume Octavo, (embellilhed with Thirty outline Por- traits) Price 9s. in Boards, PUBLIC CHARACTERS of 1 7QQ-1 800 ; Corififting of authentic and circumftantial BIOGRAPHICAL ME- MOIRS of SIXTY of the moil diftinguifhed and remarkable LIVING PERSONAGES, Natives of Great Britain and Ireland ; and being the Second Volume of the Work which has already been honoured with uni- verfa! approbation. This Volume contains authentic Memoirs of the following Perfons : The Ear! of St. Vir.tent Mr. Sheridan The Rev. Dr. Parr The Hon. T. Ertkine Dr. Charles Hutton Lord Hawkdbury Dean Milner The Bifhop of Meath The Rev. William Farifh Sir Francis Burgeois The Duke of Richmond Mrs. Abington M. S.iurin Dr. Samuel Arnold Lord Bridi>ort The Marquis of Lanfdown Sir John Parnell Mr. Southey Dr. Duigcnan Mr. George Fonfonby Mr. Granville Sharpc Mr. Pel ham The Duke of Grafton Mr. Secretary Cooke Major Cartwright The Duke of Leinfter Mrs. lnchbald Earl Fiizwilliam Mr. William Godwin The Rev. Mr. Greaves Mr. Shield Sir George Yonge Dr. Garnett Lord Dillon Lord Caftlerea Dr. Adam FergufTon Mr. William Hayley The Countefs of Derby Mr. Pratt Dr. Harrington The Duchefs of Gordon Dr. Cunic Mifs Lin wood Mr. William Cowper Lord Ken yon Mr. H^ftings The Duke of Bedford Alfo the Volume for 1798-9 ; containing EIGHTY Memoirs. Price ?s. 6d. III. BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIRS OF TWO HUNDRED of the FOUNDERS of the FRENCH REPUBLIC, and of other Perlon c the mofl diftinguifhed in the Progrefs of the Revolution. A new Edition, corrected and reviled, in two Volumes duodecimo. Price 10s. in Boards. SUPPLEMENT TO THE APPENDIX. FRANCE. EXPENCE OF GOING FROM DOVER TO CALAIS, PROVIDED YOU TAKE A PACKET TO YOURSELF. For the VefTel - £ 5 50 To the Captain - 1 1 o Provifions and wine are found by the Paflengers. Englifli Families, on landing at Ca- To the Mate - o 5 o > lais,ufuallyprefent the Cow To the Sailors - o 10 6 For a Carriage - 1 1 o mijfaire, who waits upon them on cuftom-houfe buli- nefs, with one Louis-d'or. MONEY OF FRANCE. The louis-d'or, double-louis, and demi-louis, are the current gold coins. The louis is worth 24 livres. Silver coins are; ecus of fix livres; demi-ecus; 5ths, loths, and 20thsofan ecu; and pieces of 30 and 15 fols. Copper coins are; a fou, worth 12 deniers; demi-fous; liards, worth the quarter part of a fou ; and other pieces with their value marked upon them. Accounts are kept in livres. PRICE OF POST-HORSES, &c. Every Traveller, on arriving in France, fliould purchafe he Litre de Poftc, oil L/JIe gaJra.'e des Pc/?a de France, a new edition of which is printed yearly. B Carriages 2 SUPPLEMENT TO Carriages with two wheels, called brancards, and carriage* with tour wheels a limomere (with fhafts) , mud not carry more than ioo pounds vveight of luggage behind, and 40 before. For a two-wheeled Carriage. ' I', rfou within - I Poftilion you take 2 horfes. 2 Perfons - - - - 1 Poftilion - - - 2 horfes. 3 L'crfolM - - - 1 Poftilion - - - S horfes, and pay for 4. 4 Peifons - - - - 1 Poftilion - - - 3 horfes, ami pay for . For a four-wheeled Carriage, with a pole. 1 or 2 Perfons within 2 Pofiilions you take 4 horfes. 3 Peifons - - - - 2 Poftilions ... 4 horfes, and pay for 5. 4 Perfons - - - - 2 Poftilions - - - 6 horfes. b Perfons - - - - 2 Pofiilions - - - 6 horfes, and pay for 7. 6 Perfons - - - - 3 Poftilions - - - 8 horfes, and pay for 9. For a four -wheeled Carriage a I moniere, 1 or 2 Perfons within 1 Poftilion you take 3 horfe-;. 3 Perfons - - - - 1 Poftilion - - - 4 horfes, and pay for b 4 Perfons - - - - 2 Poftilions - - - horfes. For a D.ligencc r/iodeme a limoniere, with trunks, SfC. 2 Perfons within - 1 Poftilion you take 3 horfes. It is only near Paris that the rules relative to travelling pott are rigoroufly obferved : in the provincial Towns Poft-Maf- ters do not put on above three horfes to carriages containing four Perfons; they are, however, paid from 40 to 45 fols a horfe, inflead of 30 fols, which is the legal price ; but Tra- vellers g;un by this compromife. On entering and on quit- ting Paris and Lyon, you pay 60 fols a horfe, or what was formerly called a pojte-royale. Every poftilion expecls at leaft 20 ibis for a common poft, and more for a pojle-royale, (perhaps 1 ought to fay a pojle nationale) . Travellers mould pay for their horfes at every poft before they fet out. The potts in France are well ferved; it has, however, fince the Revolution, been deemed fafcr to travel in Diligences, (which go by land and water from Paris to all the Departments of . . $he THE APPENDIX, 3 the Republic), than to travel poft. The Water-Diligence is called a Coc/ie-d'eau, and mould always be preferred to the land Diligence in thofe Provinces where the roads are bad. Route from Calais to Paris.* Ports, f Hautbuijfon - - \\ Road good. Marqu/fe - - - 1 Road good. Boulogne x - . 1^ Some rough pave. When you come to this kind of road, fay to your Poftilions ; it Allezpar tcrre'," and they will generally take the road on the fide of the paiL The fe- male Peafants of France wear clofe caps without hats ; jackets of one colour, petticoats of another, and commonly wooden fhoes. The Men wear the national uniform, fur- caps, or night-caps, with im- menfe hats over them ; and both Men and Women are plain, parti- cularly the latter. The Children feem to be ill-nurfed, and look un- healthy. The mules in Franc? are large and handfome. Samers - 2 Cormonf. I Montreuil-J ur-mer I A Hotel good. Water bad Nampont l h ocrnay - 1 * The Hotel at Calais, formerly kept ly Dessf.in, is fiili . Inn. There i«, however, another which many People prefer. t A French pofi, generally fpeaking, is from five to feven 1 miles B z V . - 4 SUPPLEMENT TO Ports. Nouvion - - - j The country from Calais hither is, generally fpeaking, open and thinly peopled. The Peafants' cottages look the picture of wretchednefs, being univerfally built of mud, and their windows are fmall holes without glafs. Abbeville, y. - - \\ A handfome City, fuppofed to con- tain 20,000 Souls. Aillyk-haut-clocher \\ Flircovrt X - - I Pecquigny Amiens x He'lecourt Flcrs Breteuil x JVavigtiy S. Jvjlc - 1 A large and handfome City. The Hotel de Diligence is a good Inn. The country from Abbeville hi- ther abounds with corn, and many parts of the road are bordered with fruit-trees. * I - 1 - !■§ The Hotel de S. Nicolas is a tolerable - I Clermwit X - - a liingueville - - 1 Cliantilly X - - ii Luzarchcs * - - 1 Ecovcn - - 4 Inn. The road from Boulogne hither is good, and from hence to Paris pave. Au Cigiie, a tolerable Inn. U Hotel d' Aftglcterre, a good Inn. * You fometimes pay for a port and a half here, and a port and a quarter at 5. Denis: and at other times the ports are divided thus; La- unches, lj — Ecouen, l\ — S. Denis, 1*. S. Denis THE APPENDIX. 5 S. Denis - - - I Paris x - 1 The approach to this City is magni- — — — ficent ; the road being bordered 335 with double rows of trees, and the country abounding with corn and vineyards. Paris, before the Revolution, was fuppofed to contain from 7 to 800,000 Inhabitants ; and, fince the Revolution, the number is faid to be lefs than 600,000. This City, though vaft, is not handfome ; it contains feveral good Hotels. We paid for our apartments, which were large, one louis a day ; and for dinner four livres a head. Hack- ney-coaches coft one livre ten fols per fare ; job-coaches about 15 louis a month, and, by the day, from 12 to 15 livres. About one livre ten fols per day is ufually given to job-Coachmen. Paris exhibits a great variety of public amufements and public walks ; and the additions made by Bonaparte to the Cabinets of Painting and Sculpture, render them now particularly interefting. The water of the Seine is deemed unwholefome. Route from Paris to Lyon Pofis. VUUjutf - - - 1 Fromenteau * - - y\ Ejjonne - -,i Ponihiery f - - ij Chailli/ - 1 Fontaineilcaux + 1^ The whole road from Paris hither in * Sometimes you only pay for one port and a quarter here. T Sometimes you only pay for one poll arid a quarter he.e. I Sometimes you only pay for ene poft and a quarter here. B 5 pat*. SUPPLEMENT TO Moret pave. Nothing can be more pic- turefque, or more gloomily mag- nificent, than the Foreft of Fon- tainbleau : each fide of the road exhibits a lofty range of grey rocks, on the very tops of which grow large beech-trees. Fontaine- bleau refembles a city depopulated Ports, by the plague. - i| A fine country, rich in vineyards and corn. Foffard - - \\ V illenenve-la-Gu- yardy. - - i Pont-fur-Yonne - \\ Sens - - \\ Villeneuve-le-Roiy. l\ The road hither is pave, the Inn in- different. Villevattier - - I Road good — no pave. Joigni/X - - i Road good. Bajfou - - i\ Road bad. Auxerrex * - l| Road indifferent and hilly. As far as Lucy-le-Bois the valleys are clothed with corn, and the tops of the hills with vineyards. S. Bris Vermcnton ] \ucy-le-Bois X 2 Inn, the Poft-Houfe, and very indif- ferent. CuJfy-les-Forges - l| No pave — road tolerable. Rouvray x - - I Road tolerable. La Roch«-en-Brevy i Road indifferent, and rather hilly. SauHeu - - i| Poft-Houfe a tolerable Inn. * Snmrtimes you pay for two pofts here, Chijfez THE APPENDIX. ^ Ports. Chtjfrz - - 7.\ Road good, but rather hilly. AntwiX - ~ 2 2 L' Hotel de S. Louis, a good inn. S. Emiland - - a A vety high and ileep hill — country beautiful. 5. Leger - - \\ Poft-Houfe a clean, but cold Inn. Chalone-fur-Saone z\ Road tolerable — country adorned with vineyards. 2 Road very bad as far as Macon. - I Senecet/ x Tournus S. Alibi Macon x Maifon Blanche ii The Hotel at Macon, fituated on the Quay, and commanding a beauti- ful view of the Saone, is a mofi excellent Inn, and particularly fa- mous for good wines. 2 Road tolerable. S.Georges-de-Rcnaim\ Road tolerable. Ville-francheX - I Road good — Inn bad. Echelles - - - \\ Road good. Puits-d'or - - i Road good. Lyon t - - i Road sood. 57 Lyon, faid to contain 160,000 People, and, in point or riches, the fecond City of France, is watered by the rivers Rhone and Saone, and furrounded by a beautiful country. The Hotel de Vide contains fome antiquities — the garden of ■the ci-devant Chartreux commands a magnificent pro I poet ; and in the Chapel de Gonfalons there was, when I paffed through Lyon, a remarkably fine picture by Rubins of our Saviour on the croi's. From the Quay of the Rhone, which is very magnificent, you dilcover the Mont Blanc. There are fevcral good Motels at Lyon, namely .In Pair, not far from the Place des Teneaux. — L'HuUl de Malt he — J/ Hotel ci-devant d'Artois, Place Bellecom — V Hotel ci-tU van: B 4 Pauihu 8 SUPPLEMENT TO Dauphin, Rue de l'Arfenal — and UHotel ci-devant de I* Reine. The Theatre here is a pretty one, and the Corapan j of Comedians good, f R.ovTEfro?n Lyon to Avignon by -water. The road from Lyon to Avignon being bad, it is advifable to go by water down the Rhone. Public boats, which are both fate and commodious, travel regularly to and fro, land- ing their Paffengers every evening at tolerable Inns. Families may take one of theft boats to themfelves,for ten louis-d'ors, or perhaps lefs, the exjienfe of putting a carriage and other baggage on board, and unfhipping it at Avignon, inciufwe. "We paid ten louis-d'ors for a pnvate boat, and neither thought ourielves fo well accommodated, nor fo fafe, as we might have been in a public one. From Lyon we embarked at noon, and arrived before fix in the evening at Cordrnnl, where the Inn is but indifferent. The views on each fide of the river are beautiful. The lecond day we leit Cordreuil about nine in the morn- ing, and found the views even finer than on the preceding day. A magnificent chain of lofty rocks clothed with vine- yards, and crowned with ruins of ancient caftles, formed the great features of the !and r c 'pe, while here and there a (mail village at the water's edge, and fometimes a large town in a valley between the hills, added to the richnefs of the fcenery. C'n tcavx, and convents, perched upon the pinacles of craggy rocks, prefented themfelves at every turn of the river ; while the rocks frequently appeared in fuch wild and extraor- dinary fnapes, that one might eafily have miftaken them for caftlef with Giants ftriding on their battlements. No * Tliorc are other roads from Vuiis to Lyon, namely; thro 1 Nevers sttd Moidins, 56 J polls 5 tl.ro' linuvray, Aiiiai-k-Duc and Chagiiy,] 56J ports ; thro' Trones, Dijon t and Macon, 59\ pofis ; and thro' Mvutbard, Dijon, and Macon, 61| ports. 1 however would counfel Travellers to prcf-r the Cocl.e-J cda to any one of thtfe roads pen s THE APPENDIX, 9 pen, however, can do juftice to this enchanting fcenery, which is rendered doubly beautiful by the immenfe breadth, peculiar clearnefs, and aftonifhing rapidity of the Rhone. About four o'clock we arrived at Valence, which commands a diltant view of the Alps, and (lands directly oppofite to a picturefque rock crowned by the remains of a cattle. We flept at the Pott Houfe, a tolerable Inn, though too far from the water. • The third day we quitted Valence at nine in the morning, and found the rocks encrealed in magnitude, and the prof- peft of the Alp* grow more and more fublime as we pro- ceeded. Early in the afternoon we came in fight of the Pont S. Efprit, and patted under the middle arch without experiencing any difagreeable fenfation from the fall. This celebrated Bridge, 3000 feet in length, is built with beauti- ful limplicity, and magnificent beyond description. The Hotel de Luxcmlurg at S. Efprit, where we flept, is a good Inn, but too far from the water. The fourth day w c left S. Efprit at eight in the morning, and arrived at Avignon about twelve." There are two Catties oppofite to each other, not far from Pont S. Efprit, which form a pi&urefque view. On approaching Avignon we found the country flat, and the profpe&s let's pleating than before. Route from Lyon to Avignon 6j/ Land. Ports. $,Fn d - - - I S. Sap/ijrin d'Ozon I Vienne - - \~ From I yon to Vienne you have a fine view of the Alps. At V lennc is an Amphitheatre almoft entiie, and the remains of a triumphal Arch, erected in honour of Auguftus, Tne wine calied Colc-rotit is made near \ ienne. A'jbrri'ive IO SUPPLEMENT TO Ports, Aubervive - - z Peage-de-Roi/Jfitton i S. Ramhert - - l\ S. Valller - -l| Tain -A Valence * - -4 1m Paillajfe L'Oriol - ^ - *i L'Aine - il Montelimart -ii Donzerc - 2 Pierrelatte La Pahi Rlomas Orange Coitrfczon Avignon i i Celebrated for red and white wins, calkd Hermitage. This Town contains a Univerfity. Near this place, on the oppofite fide of the Rhone, is made the famous Vin de Peres. Remarkable for Mariu^s triumphal Arch, and an Univerfity. 30 Avignon, before the Revolution, was fuppofed to contain 24,000 Inhabitants; and now the number does not amount to 10,000. This melancholy decreafe of population is at- tributed to the cruellies of Jourdan; immediately after whole irnprifonment we landed at Avignon ; and fcarcely had we quitted our hoat,ere were found ourfelves furround- ed by Guards, who roughly demanded our names, our country, and from whence we came; but, on being told we were KngliuS, they bowed, and permitted us to proceed. We then met crowds of People running to the banks of the * Sometimes you pay for only twopofts here. Rhonf THE APPENDIX. II Rhone, in order to fee fome Prifoners who were juft taken, and who proved to be part of the barbarous Gang that had recently murdered above 200 Citizens of Avignon, and pro. fcribed 1400 more. On entering the city we found almoft every body in mourning for fome murdered Relation ; while Guards were ftationed at the gates of all the Noblemen's houfes, and many habitations were entirely (hut up, becaufe their owners hud recently been maffacred. On entering the Cathedral, which is a ftately edifice, we found every picture covered with black cloth (one of our Saviour on the crofs excepted), while the reft of the Church exhibited black hangings embroidered with emblems of death : and this public mourning, as the workmen who were putting it up informed us, was preparatory to the celebration of mafs for the fouls of the murdered Citizens. Avignon is handfomely built, in the Italian ftyle. The Palais Royal we found an excellent Inn. Travellers, who have leifure, ufually go from Avignon to fee the Fountain of Vauclufe, an excuriion which takes up fix or feven hours. Route from Avignon to Nismes and Montpellier. Ports. Removliiis - - 3 S. Gervafy - - r Nismes - - 1 This City is well worth feeing, on account of it's Amphitheatre, it's Mat/lm quarree, and feveral other monuments of antiquity, belide many fine modern edifices. It is iuppofed to contain 50,000 Souls. The Pont dc Garde, an ancient Ko- man work, is only three leagues from Xifmcs. Uchault 12 SUPPLEMENT TO Ports. XJckault - '§ Lune! - »i Colombiere - I MoNTPELLIEU - «i 10* Montpellier, faid to contain 30,000 Souls, has long been celebrated for it's climate, which, though unfavourable to weak lungs, is in other refpetts peculiarly falubrious, and fo dry that, upon an average, it feldom rains in this City above twenty days during the year. Snow and fogs are likewife uncommon. L' 'Hotel du petit Paris, is a tolerable Inn ; but Perfons who mean to refide any time at Montpel- lier mould hire a ready-furnifhed apartment, and have their dinner from a Traiteur; by which means many expences m'ght be avoided. Here are feveral Promenades, and a Theatre. The mafon-fpider is an extraordinary infect which Natu. ralifts report to be found only in the environs of Montpellier, RouTEy?wn Avignon to Nice through A\x. Pofts. S.Andio! - - z\ You crofs the Durance in a Ferry; and it is prudent (before you quit Avignon) to enquire whether this river be paffable ; which, after floods, it frequently is not. From Avignon to the banks of the Du- rance is a two hours drive, through a bad road and a flat dull country. Qt-yoi} X - I La Porte de Vil'e is a good Inn. — Road bad. L< Pont-royal - 2 Road gpod, but flat and dull. S.Canqt THE APPENDIX. *3 S. Canat Aix Pofts. - 2 Road very bad and hilly. - a Road very bad and hilly. Aix, fuppofed to contain 23,000 People, is a fine City built in the Italian ftyle, and embellished with a Univeriity. The houfes appear to be good, and the ftreets are much handfomer than thofe of Paris. The Cathedral merits ob- fervation, as that part called La Rotunde is adorned with antique columns which once belonged to a Temple of the Sun. The College-Chapel contains an annunciation, and a a vifitation, by Puget. he Prince is an excellent Hotel, as is S. Jacquts. f Pofts. Im Galuilere - - \\ Road good, and bordered by rocks clothed with ever-green. Porcioux - - 2 Road exceffively rough, and almoft impaflable. Tourvcs - - 2 Road good, one very fteep hill ex- cepted, down which Travellers mould walk ; it being full of ftones and deep holes. The Poit Houfe at Tourves is a bad Inn. Brig nolle X Flajfans J^e Luc Vidauban X Lt Ma,, FrejttS X - ii Road good. - ji Road good. - 1 Road good. - i~ Road very bad and hilly. Almoft the whole country between Brig- nolle and \ idauban abounds with olives, figs, mulberries, peaches, vines, and corn. - 1 1 Road bad. - 2 Road rough. Alteephill. LcChapeau rou^e is a zood Inn. Frejui 14 SUPPLEMENT f 6 Frejus, by the Romans called Forum Julii, (till exhibits viftages of it's ancient fplendour, namely, one Arch of the Port creeled by Cafar, and the ruins of an Aqueduct, &c. ; but what muft always render this Town memorable is, that here Bonaparte landed on his return from Egypt. The country round Frejus is magnificently wooded, and adorned with a greater number of beautiful fhrubs than I ever before faw collected on one fpot by the hand of Nature. Pofts. VEfierd - - 2 Jn order to pafs the Eflerels, which, in point of height, may be com- pared with the Maritime Alps, we took at Frejus eight horfes and one mule to our Enghfh coach. The road over thefe mountains is execrable, the fcenery enchanting. La Napoulc - - \\ From Orgon to La Napoule the country is often infefted with Rob- bers. We took Guards the whole way. From La Napoule to An- tibes the road is very bad. Antibcs x - - z\ VAiglc d'or, at Antibes, is a good Inn. Between this place and Nice you ford the Varr, and fhould therefore enquire, previous to fet- ting out, whether that dangerous torrent be pafTable. We were an hour in crofTing, and had Forders who preceded us, in order to warn our Drivers againft holes which are common in the bed of the Varr, while other Forders fup- pnrtcd our carriage againit the vio- lence of the current. N'jcu THE APPENDIX. 1$ Pofrs. Nice - - 3 The Country from A ntibes hither ia — — an exteniive plain, near the fea, and 33 embellifhed with hedges of pome- granates, myrtles, and aloes Nice, while annexed to the crown of Sardinia, contained about 1 2, coo People, and was a convenient and agreeable fejouf for Invalids; but no place has flittered more from the late revolutions than this little City. The Port of Ville-Francha, near Nice, is one of the fineft in Europe. Route^w/i Aix to Marseille and Toulon. Pofts. I a: Grand-Pin - 2 Marseille - - 2 About half a league before you come to this City, is one of the fineft views in the world. The road, from Aix hither, is generally very bad. Beft Inn, Aux 13 Cantons. Marftille is fuppofed to contain 90,000 Souls. Here were, at the commencement of the Revolution, two pictures by Scrrcs, reprefenting tiie Plague, which are laid to have no fault but that of being too weii done. The Cat/.al.al is adorned with the works of Pu^ret ; and Ln V.oniUnn contains « a celebrated bajfo-rlUcxo of the Plague by the fame Matter. The Port, the Quay and the environs of this City are beau- tiful. Aubagne - - 2 Capes - - 1 1 lif,n/Jfit - -2 PoLi.oN - ~ 2 The Road from Marfeille hither is IK t ^OOvl. 1 '- \ Toulon i6 SUPPLEMENT TO Toulon is fuppofed to contain 26,000 Souls. The Ports, the Marine Arfenal, the Hotel de Ville, adorned with two co* loflal Gariatides by Puget, a ceiling in the houfe he once occupied, reprefenting the Fates; the Military- Arfenal, the Lazaret, the Cathedral, and the ci-devant Seminaire, were, at the commencement of the Revolution, the objects beft worth notice in this City. Hyeres, a fmall Town near Toulon, is famed for the ex- cellence of it's climate during winter. Route from Paris to Bordeaux and Bayonne. Ports. Croix- de-Bernis -»* Lonjumeau - I Arpajon - ll Ejirechy -l£ Etampes - I Montdcjir - I Angerville - I Thoitry - 1* Artenay Chevil/y - 1 Orleans - ik Fcrte- Lovendal Motte-Beuvron 2— This City contains about 40,000 People. The Great Church is ma- jeftic and elegant ; and the envi- rons are pleafant. The Fauxbourg d'Olivet communicates with the City by a Bridge which is much celebrated. Orleans is embellifh- ed with a Univediry, an Academy of Sciences, and a public Library. Neugn TRAVELS IN ITALY. '7 Ports. Nouan - I Sa/bris - 2 Im Ia>vc " I* Her run - 2 A fmall but ancient Town. Maffay - I Vatan - 2 Epine-Fauveau - li Chateau-roux - 2 This Town is fituated in an exten five and beautiful plain. Ijottier - 2 Argent on " «i Fail - 2 Rois-Rtmont - I Bois-mande - I Uognon " If Montcrol - I Chant cloube - ii Maijbn-rouge - 2 Li mocks - lv-, This City contains 20,000 People The ci-devant Abbey of S. Martial is intercfting on account of it's an- antiquity. Ant - I IS E fang - Ii Chat us - I Im Cofjuille - Ii Ihiviers - 2 PaliJJ'ous - »i lav ernes - Ii Pericueux - - l£ Famed for delicious meat-pies. Here likewife arc /owe Roman Antiqui- ties; and near the Town is a Foi/n- C tain 1,8 Majfoidie Mujpdan Monf-pont Coujfeaux S. Meard Chapelles Libournc S. Par dam S. Louies Garbon-blanc Bordeaux SUPPLEMENT TO Ports. tain remarkable for the daily flux and re-flux of it's waters. 7*1 This City, one of the largeft, richeft, and handfomeft in France, is fuppofed to contain 150,000 People. The objects' beft worth notice are, The Cathedral, which contains two ex- traordinary bas-reliefs — the Exchange. — the ci-devant Chartrcufe Church — 'the Theatre — the Qua?/s — and the Rui/is of Roman Antiquities. The wines of Bordeaux are excellent. Bcf: Inn, Au Marechal de Richelieu. Crrandionan - ll Hellenic - I Pui/eJi-ih-la- Gubatte 1 ■ Is Jiarpf - - i\ VHofpitalrt - 1 Bdin - I Le Murct - r Ullifpotei/ - - ■4 Sometime:; you pay for only one poft. TRAVELS IN ITALY. 19 Ports. La Bouhere - 2 Beioc - - l| L,a Haric - • 1 5 L'Efperon - - l£ Cajlets - -2 Magefc - - 2 Mottts - - I A S .V ineent-de-T irojfe I Cantons - • ii Ondres - - 2 Bavonne - - 2 This Town is finely lituated at the confluence of two rivers. T//<* 28 Cathedral is a venerable edifice. Travelling beds may be purchafed at Bayonne. ROUTE //wh PARIS to BREST. £>Yrre - ~ l h I 1 rj (lilies - - i± Before the Revolution Verfaillcs con- tained 60,000 Perfons ; now the number is decreafed to 40,000 ; and grafs has lately grown in the ftretts. The Citdieau (however ft ripped by the hands of Republi- canifm) muft, I mould think, ftill contain ceilings, and other things worth notice. Pvn'clietrtrain - 2 I. a Queue - - 1^ Houdan - - 1 i Marolle - - I Urcur - - i~. Remarkable for the battle of 155;, under Charles IX. C Z A . - ;ne ;?//•' lO SUPPLEMENT TO Ports. \\ Famed for the battle of 1424. Nonancourt Tillicres J erncuil S, Maurice - -2 Mortagne - - l\ Le Mele-fur-Sarthc 2 Mhiilbroujl - -I Aivi$on - - \\ Renowned for falfe diamonds, which are found about two leagues from this Town. $. Dcnis-fur-Sarton 1 \ Prez-en-Pail - - l~ Ribaj/ - - 2. ftfat/enne - -2 This Town contains 24,000 People . there are quarries of jafper in it's vicinity. This is a considerable Town. Martigne - 2 Laval - a Gravelle . - - * 1 VlTRE - 2 Chd/cau-Dvurg - 2 Noj/al - 4 Rennes - *\ This City is fuppofed to contain 35,000 People. The Place Roy ale — the Palais dc Jujricc — and the Hotel de Villc, merit notice. Pajle Iiedee Montauban S, Jean liroon Langouedrc Lmnballe S. Brieux TRAVELS IN ITALY. 21 S B*iEux Chatelaudrcn Giungamp Bois mormant B( Ui/le-en-terre Pontir Pontou Morlaix S. Egonec Landivtjiau Ijondcrncau Guipava Brest * Ports. - z\ This Town has a good Port. - z The Chunk of N. D. dc Murs is a lingular edifice ; The Hojpitat is a fine one ; and the Port conlider- abie. - i - a - .* •4i This Town is fuppofed to contain 24,600 Inhabitants. The Duck-Yard, the ci-devant Ch(ipei-roya/ s and the HoJpitat\ rhcrit notice ; and the Theatre is pretty. f ROUTE from PARIS to DIEPPE, Through Rolls'. Port , £'. Da I Thi ci-devant Abbey-Church is a fine (iotliic ft.ruct.ure. * There is another Road from Brc.'t to Paris, through. Lamballe, Uol, Maicnne, and Alencon, which is nearer by 3 1'olts. t There are, at Exmouth, in Devonshire, Deck-YefiVls called Pilot- Sloops, (and nearlv equal in lize to the Dover-Packets) which would I fhould imagine, convey Families to P>ivit with fait ty and convenience . thefe Vedcls being well found, and weli navigated. The) arc ufua'.Iy h ' ■ \ I ir ! '. o r il;,l: a. . ' . ". , ". sp '!l',\s incl ilf:VO. (' 3 Francon, ">■ 22 SUPPLEMENT TO Pons. Franconxille - - i\ Pontoife - - i| The Church of S. Martin is famed for it's architefture ; and the Church of S. Mat/on contains a ce- lebrated defcent from the Crofs, and likewife a fine painting by Jouvenet. BordcaU'de- Vigny 2 Magny - - \-. Tilliers - - s Ecoiiis - - 2 Piourg-Baudoum - \-, Forge- ferctte - I Rouen - - i] This City is fuppofed to contain 73,000 Inhabitants. The great Hall of the Palace, the old Cajile, the great Church, and the Belfrij of the ci-devant Bencdidiin Church of S. Oucn, merit notice. Cambrcs - - 2 Totes - - l£ Ojhionville - " 1* Dieppe - - 2 22^ This Town is fuppofed to contain 20,000 Inhabitants ; and, during peace, it has ufually been the cuitom for a packet to run to and fro from hence to England.* * Route from Dieppe through D'Eus to Abbeville. Pofts. Tnrqueville - - -2 /„ - - - j 1 I aline - - - ',1 AuilLVILLE - - - Z 71 TRAVELS IN ITALY, 2 3 ROUTE from PARIS to DUNKERQUE. Pofts. Rourget - i Louvres - ii Chapellc-cit-ferval - i| Senlis - i Pont-S. Maxence - *5 Bois-de-Lihus - it Gournay - 1 Cuvilly - 1 Couchy-les-pots - 1 Roye - ii Fonchcs - 1 Marche-lc-pot - 1 Pcronne - »* Fins - 2 Bon-avis - »i Camfray - il T/te Citadel, though old, is a fine one. Bac-a-Bincheux Do LAY Pont-a-Marr/vc' LlLLK 77/e tfo/e/ e of Laocoon and his Sons, now at Paris. The Palace of the Governor-General, the Capuchin-Church , the ci-devant Jefiiit's Church, the Park, the Place dc Sablon, and the Canal. The \h>tel dc iiel/e-vue is a good Inn, and there are fevcral others. Afchc - " i* Aloft - - 1 A Qua dec gt - 1* Gaud - - 1 Allercn TRAVELS IN ITALY. 27 Pofts. .literal - -2 Bruges - - 2 Ojlende - - 2 Us The common paffage from Oftcnde to Harwich is about 20 hours with a fair wind : and from Oltende to Margate, Ramfgate, or Dover, about iz hours. Packets uni'ually fail twice a week from Harwich to Oltende ; and thefj vel- fels contain much better accommodations, and are, more- over, much better Sea-boats than the Packets employed be- tween Dover and Calais. ROUTE from PARIS to STRASBOURG, Through Chm.ons-svr-Mar.ke, S. Dizier, Bar-le-Duc, Toll, Nancy, Llneville, Phai.zbolr./g, nd Sa- VERNE. Pofts . $ondy - - i This Town gives it's name to the neighbouring Forest. Vtrl-Gtdand - - i C/agc - -I Between Paris and Meaux you pafs a plain famed for the retreat of the Swifs, in 1567, under Pfyrfer, who efcorted Charles IX, Cathe- rine tie Medicis, and the Ladies of her Court in fafety to Paris, by cutting his way through the Army of their Enemies. Menus - ' iA This Town Hands in a beautiful plain watered by the Marn< , and was the iiiit place wim h deferted the party of the League and lub- mitted to Henry IV. Aleve one of 2& SUPPLEMENT TO Pofts. of the Gates are tfrefe words, Hen- ricum prima agnovi. Good cheeses are made at Meaux. S. Jea?i - ' - ii LaFerte-fous-Jouarrcl A fmaii Town embelliflied with pretty walks. La Fermc- de-Paris i|; ChdtcauThiery - i^ The birth. place of Lafontaine. Parois - - 1 Dormant - - ^ Port-a-Bainfon - I La Cave - - I Epcrnay - - I Jdlons - - a JMaJiogne - - i Chalons- SCR- Marne . - i Famed for it's wines. The Hotel de Ville, and the great Church, are the objects bed worth notice. Near this City Attila was defeated by the Franks and Romans. Chepi - 1 La Chauffee - I S. Amand - r Viti -ij-'c-Francais - i Long-champ - 2 S. Dizkr - l l Saudi- upt - ii Bar-le-duc. - A Ltgmi - 2 S. Aubin - r Void - \\ Built by Francis \. - \\ Here the Marne becomes navigable. \\ Famous for fweet-meats, trout, and excellent wine. lauc TRAVELS IN ITALY. 2 9 Tcul Vclaine Nancy Pons. - l£ The great Church and ci-devant Epif- copal Palace merit notice : the wines of Toul are good. - I| - i£ This City fuff'ered cruelly from a battalion of Republicans, who paffed through it in 1792, and de- ft royed all the chefs -d' outre of art they unfortunately met with. The Place ci-devant rot/ale, is one of the iineft in Europe — the Tombs of the ancient Dukes of Lorraine in the ci-devant Francifcan Churc/i, merit notice — the Cloijicr of the Francifcans ait Ion fecours contains the grave of King Staniflas, the great Embellifher of this City- The Theatre is pretty, and the Hjtcl dc Jjondres ufed to be the beft Inn. Dombajlc - — 2 LiUHCVtllc - - I* Benamenil - " Ik B/atnont - - 2 tltrnirifs - - 2 hurrebourg I Hunnnartin - - I Phaljbourg - - I Siiscrne - - a 1 Here the Sarre becomes navigable. 1^ The road over the Mountain of Sa- verne is much celebrated, and dots honour to Human indulliv. fr.it/icitn $0 SUPPLEMENT TO Ports. Wiltheim - - z Stiffeim - - i Strasbourg - il 58* Strasbourg contains 47,000 Inhabitants. The objects beft worth notice in this City are, the Munjler and it's fa- mous Tower — the Church of S. Tho?tias, which contains the Mavfoleum of Marjhal Saxe, by Pigale — the Arfenal and Can- non Foundry — the ci-devant epifcopdl Palace — the public Grana- ries — the Foundling Ho/pita! — 7/e Hofpifal Bourgeois — the Ob- fervafory — the Maifon de Villc — the Citadel — {lie great Bridge, over the Rhine — the public Library, which is open on Tuef- days, Thurfdays, and Saturdays — Mr. Schoepfins Cabinet of Antiquities — and the Cabinet of Natural llijiory belonging to Citizens Dieterich, l'Autigny, and Herrmann. Here is an Academy of Mufic, a French and a German Theatre. The Ville de Lyon is a good Inn.* Route * The Strasbourg Diligence fets out every Tuefday at five in the morning, and arrives on the following Saturday at Paris. Stages. Time of Arrival. Leagues. P rice Sarrcbnick - - - at noon - IG - - 12 livi es lGfoI: LiwevilL - - at night - - 29 - - 2-3 - - 4 Void - - - - at noon - - 47 - ■ - 37 - - 12 Ha r-lc-Vuc - - - at night - !>G - ■ ■ 44 - - 16 Viiri - - - - at noon - 68 - • - 54 S Chalons - - - at night - - 7G - - 60 - - IG Doriiians - - at noon - DO - 72 La Fcrtr - - at night - - 102 - - 81 - - 12 Paris - - at noon - - 117 - - • it - at noon - - 93 - ■ - 70 Saverne - - - - at night - - ". :.? - 80 - - 8 Strasbourg - at noon - -117 - 3 - . 12 The Diligence from Bruxelles to Faris contains eight places; tie diftance is 00 leagues; and every Paffewge: pay- three loui-, for wliicft lui'.i you are found in dinner, fupper, hah' a bottle of wine at each meal, and a good bed at night — fomctimes th'.'re .ire fceral beds in the- f.ime chamber, but, for 2U fols, you may always have a ro- in to vour- felf. The pafftrtigers pay the lervants at Inns. On the i\:'\ night thi* WH^cmx 'J'>e- '.j M •— ;ii : l"tr;ynd to l'-.', ■ 1,1.1. — .;..! th-„ :h rd to l'\Ris. .3* SUPPLEMENT TO Vandoeuvres Bar-fur-Aube Colombey Su~ainecourt Chaumont Vefaigne Langres —the Church of S. Etienne—the Library of the ci-devant Cordeliers— ~ and the Chateau, fonce the refi- dence of the Counts of Cham- pagne) are the objects beft worth a Traveller's attention. The water Pofts. here is fcarcely drinkable. - »i - i\ Celebrated for it's wines. - i* - i - 2 The front of the College-Church is ad- mired. This is the higheft-fituated town in France. Diderot was born here. The mineral \\ aters of Bourbonnc- les-Bains are only feven league? diftant from Lan^res. Crriffonottes - Fa //- B /Hot Cintrcy Combeau - Fontaine Pont-J'ur-Saone - Vezoll Cahnouiicr Lure 1 5 Celebrated for it's wines. At Lcugnc, a village to the eait of Vezoul, there is a famous Grotto. The mineral waters of Lu.vcul are only fix leagues from Vezoul. 1 5 This Town is peculiarly fituatcd, on an iiland formed by a pond, anil furrounded with woods and moun- tains. Ronchampi TRAVELS IN ITALY 33 Pofts. Ronchamps I* Frahier »* Befort >i yf Jirong Town. V/utvu/ics 2 Altkirk 2 Trois-Maijbns 2 S. Louis- Jotis-IIu- ninguc - - i£ Travellers who cannot reach Bade before the gates aje fhut, mull, from neceffity, ftop here, where the Inn is execrable. Frontier Town of Switzerland. Basle • i S. Lou'ts-J'ous-H li- ning uc i Gros- Kempt »* Ottmarftieim l* Feffenheim 2 Ncuf-Brifack - - '4 ftlarkot/Iittm 2 Friefvnheim 2± Kraft »i Strasbourg 2 Built by Louis XIV. The Poft I Ioufe is out of the Town. You drive through the beautiful plains of Alface, anddifcover at a vaft diftance the Munfter Tower of St;uibour£r. * Perfons who like water-parties lhould, if pofiible, go down the Rhine to Stralbourg ; and indeed, judging from my own experience, I would advife every bodv to prefer going in the public boats upon the Rivers and Canals of France, to any other mMe of travelling D Rol'TF ^4 SUPPLEMENT TO ROUTE/™* PARIS to GENEVA, Through Dijon. Ports. Houxray - 29 See the route from Paris to Lyon. JMa.j/btt'Heure - 2 Vittcaux - 2 Chalcur - ii Pant-dc-Pani/ " I* Cude 1 Dijon " Ii This City is fuppofed to contain 20,000 People. The Chateau — the Uofpital — the Rue de Condi- — the front of the Church of S. Michel — the ci-devant Governor's Palace — and the ci-devant Charlreufe, are the objects beft worth a Tra- veller's notice. The Inns are good ; and the Promenade die Cours is one of the fineft in France. Baroque i\ The wine of Chambcrtin is made near this place.- Nuy, - . 1 1 Ucaunc * 1^ Famed for it's Uofpital. C hag 111/ - 2 Cha.'ous-fur-Soaiie 2 Seuccei/ ~ - 2 Toumus . - 1 S. Alt/in - - 2 Between S. Alb: 11 and Macon you difcover the'Mont Jura. \Ta.co\ - -It, Liogis-ni'iif - 2 Bolrcj-i.n-Biu:sse 2 Near this place is the ci-devant Au- gvflin Monafti /;'/, which contains a * You fomotimes pay for only one pofl liL'te, fine TRAVELS IN ITALY. 35 fine Church with Statues and Mo- numents worth notice. Bourg is Potts, the birth-place of Mr. de la Landc. Pont Dam - 2~ Ceribn - - iL S.Mar/w-du-Fnfoe i£ A pi&urefque road. Nantua - - 1 S. Gcrmain-U-Joux 1^ A piclurcfque road, exhibiting a fine Lake, which abounds with trout. Chdlillon - 1 Briars and box-trees clothe the rocks of Credo, which forms the bafe of Jura. Avaiu/tt/ - - 1^ Near Coi/pi/, and but a few paces out of the road, the Rhone ruihes under-ground with a tremendous noife, purfucs it's fubterranean courfe for a considerable diftance, and then burlts forth again with an impetuolity almoit terrific. A pleafunt road. 34 ROUTE from PARIS to POXT-BEAUVOISIN and CHAMBKRY. Pofts. Lj/on . - 57 See the route from Paris to Lyon, liron - 1 S.l.auri nt-de-Mures 1 I, a / erpilliere - 1 h I 'ill - I~r La Taur-th-Pin - 2 1)2 ( ■ s - «£ S. Jean - - 1 S. Gents - 1 Geneva 1 36 SUPPLEMENT TO Gaz Ports. 1 Pont Beauvoijin - 1 Echelles I S. Jcan-des-coups 1 Chambery* - 1 Frontier of Savoy. You pafs the Chemin dc la Grottc. 6 9 ROUTE from PARIS to GRENOBLE. Pofts. Lyon - - 57 See the route from Paris to Lyon. Jiron - 1 S. haurent-de-Mures 1 Verpillsere - - 15 Bourgoin - • i| Ecloze - - ]i La Title - 2 Hives - i-| Voreppe - - \\ Grenoble - 2. 70§ This City is fuppofed to contain 30,000 Inhabitants. The objects bed worth notice are — the general llofpifal — the great Church — the Arfenal — and a bronze. Hercules, which adorns one of the Promenades. The/even wonders in the en- virons of Grenoble, (which, by-the-by, do not quite deferve * Rovte from Chamuer? to Grenoble. Pofls. ^foutmelitin - - - 1 Clutpurcillun 2 Imnhiu 2\ Gl!t.NODI.E - - - "\ 8 TRAVELS IN ITALY. 37 their name) are, La tour-fan$~venm> — La Fontainc-ardentc — La Dion t ague inacecJJilL — Les cuiis-de-SaJfaiagc, (famed for cheefe) Les pier res ophtalmiuues de SaJJ'cnagt. — La manne de Brian con — and La erotic de N. D. de la Balmc. ROUTE from PARIS to PERPIGNAN, Through Toulouse. See the route from Paris to Bor- deaux. Pofts. Uinogcs 4<>* Boijfeil I Pierre-Buffiere " 4 Magnac - 4 Majfere - >£ Uzerehes - a Bariotet " 1* J)o//:enac m *"» Brive ~ I* Crrjfi ii/'ac - *I Sou/. Lie. - 2 Payrac - 2 Pont-dc-Rodcz - z Poufat ~ I* Cahors *1 Tuillerie - - l h Madeleine - »£ Penche 1 Caujfade 1 MOMAI'BAN n l Here are fome remains of a Roman Anrphtthtatre, Biijtiilt S. Pierre A handfome Town, beautifully iituated, and containing 20,000 People. The gnat Church de- ferves notice. Gri lilies SUPPLEMENT TO Ports. fir/folles I S. Jorrii - I* Courtmfou - - I ToVLOLSE I 85! This City contains 60,000 Inhabitants, 'i'ht front of r.he Hotel de P'ille, and the Bridge, merit attention ; the latter being one of the fined in Europe. Touloufe is embellifhed with a variety of pleafant promenades. CaJIanct Hajfiegc Villefranche Bajiide d'Anjou Cajit'lnaudan/ Vdlt-Pintc Alzonne Carcassonne - in Barb(i/rac jSIwis Cri//cade Villcdaigne i\ or bonne S ; " 2 This town is iltuated on the Canal of Languedoc, which extends 60 leagues. Jn the upper-Town is a Caftle which contains /iw/c old laxz-deeds, written in a very peculiar manner upon the bark of trees. The ci-devant Ca- puchin Church merits notice. A plain covered with olives, vines, corn, and mulberry-trees, and en- circled by barren rocks. Here are ruins offever.il J lorn on Kdi- Ji'crs ; and in the Cat In deal is the 'J\ >/ h of Philip the Hold. TRAVELS IN ITALY. 39 Ports. Fifou - -2 Sth'ctS - 1 Plrpignan - 1 The great Church deferves notice. 261 KOUTE from PARIS to LA ROCHELLE, Through Chartres, Tours, and Poitiers. Ports. V> rfaHlct - 2 Trappes - I Cojviieres - I Rambouillet - I* Here is a ftrong Cafiie, in which Francis I. expired. Kpernon - li Aft/inteiion - I Chartres - I The great Church and it's Belfry are well worth feeing. f.ii Bourdiuihe 2, Homieval - £ C lid 1 cat/dun - 2 Cl,,,t - I* P< .:*/// - 2 Vi ndome - I* PL,jls-X.-A,nund T 2 ootjjuihe - 2^ yioiuivi/f - »* Tours - 2 T/u Mali — (hi Cat!;., ha' — and the Church t't'S. Martin merit notice. Carre's - - 1-^ 1 his country is watered by the Loire and the Cher, and famed tor ex- cellent fruits. 1 Montlazon Sur/oni/ y iii a ' 40 SUPPLEMENT TO S. Mattre - "Reauvais Qrmes Ingrande Chatellerautt Harres-dc-Nin tre La Tricherie Clan Grand-Pont Poitiers - ■ Ports. 2 This City Is faid to contain 16,000 Inhabitants. Here are the remains of an ancient T/icafre, and a triwn- p/tal An/iy which is now converted into a Gate. Crouiclle Colombiers Lttjignan V illcdieu-du-P crron 5. Ma j en t - - Villedku NlORT Ro/ian-Rvlian Mozat/ Noa/i/e Vfeau - - La Rochelle i\ Here are the remains of a celebrated — — Dike, which was conitrucled by 60 Cardinal Richelieu. The road through Tours and Orleans to Rochelle is 61 pods; and that through Yendome, Tours, Poitiers, Xiort, *md Saintes, 69 pofts and a hall". FIN! s. <• &' /y T, Oil'.ct, Printer, Silisbury-Srjturt 4 University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. V% f d *-*£ *f % A V>$ V' .1* 3 -^** w* A :j** __j L 005 963 651 4 SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY AA 000102 825 7