ttAl «?s? mm. m T j&. :-?_-5^ :& re '£/>.«./ 1 ^H?W- THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES TRAVELS IN Curftep, &8w*Minov t g>prta, AND ACROSS THE DESERT INTO EGYPT, DURING THE YEARS 1799, 1800, AND 1801, IN COMPANY WITH THE TURKISH ARMY, AND THE BRITISH MILITARY MISSION: ALSO THROUGH CERMANT, HOLLAND, &C ON THE RETURN TO ENGLAND: TO WHICH ARE ANNEXED, OBSERVATIONS ON THE PLAGUE, AND ON THE DISEASES PREVALENT IN TURKEY, AND A METEREOLOGICAL JOURNAL. BY WILLIAM WITT MAN, M. D. OF THE ROYAL ARTILLERY, Member of the Royal College of Surgeons in London, and Surgeon to the British Military Mission ailing with the Army of the Grand Vizier. l£>btfaDcIpbia: PUBLISHED AND SOLD BT JAMES HUMPHREYS IN PHILADELPHIA; AND f»Y CONRAD AND CO. At their Stores in Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington, Petersburg, and Norfolk. 1 80+. DS 47 tx)n%h TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE EARL OF ELGIN, His Majesty s Ambassador Extraordinary at the Ottoman Porte, Kc. & r r. &V. MY LORD, THE attention, so honourable to your Lordship's feelings, with which I, as well as others of our countrymen, was favoured by your Lord- ship, while in the dominions of the Grand Seignor, has excited in me sentiments of gratitude, for the public expression of which I hope to be forgiven. It is under this impression that I have presumed to prefix your Lordship's name to a work, which is the result of my observations and inquiries while in those countries. If it should serve to record the hos- pitable and liberal conduct of your Lordship, in your 7 IV public capacity, and the respect and esteem which that conduct could not fail to excite in its Author; and if, at the same time, it should in any degree, con- tribute to your Lordship's amusement, it will be a subject of permanent satisfaction to - _ MY LORD, Your Lordship's obliged Servant, THE AUTHOR. Woolwich, April, 1803. PREFACE. IN the present multiplicity of books, to obtrude a new work upon the Public argues an opinion in the Author, that it either contains some new information, or if the mat- ter is old, that it is in a dress which is both original and advantageous. To the latter the writer of these pages makes no pretensions j with respect to the former, the fault is his own if the work should be found to contain no infor- mation but what is already familiar to his countrymen. Attached in a professional capacity to the British Mi- litary Mission which accompanied the army of the Grand Vizier in its route through Turkey, Syria, and Egypt, du- ring the late memorable campaign, he was certainly in a situation peculiarly advantageous for observing the man- ners, customs, and habits of the Turkish nation, not only in peace, but in war. His profession afforded him many opportunities for improving these advantages, by an inti- mate communication not only with the *Grand Vizier him- self, but with the principal personages of the Ottoman empire. In the course of his travels, he saw many things which to him at least, were uncommon; and he was in the habit (partly to relieve his mind from the irksomeness of his situation, and partly in the hope of gratifying his particu- Vlll PREFACE. lar friends) to note down whatever appeared worthy of re- mark. On communicating these notes to those for whom they were originally intended, it was their wish to see them in print, as containing matter which, according to their partial opinion, was calculated to interest a still wider cir- cle. Such a task, when he commenced his journal, he did not expect he should have to encounter; and this statement, in every respect consonant to truth, he trusts will shield him from the severity of criticism, which is most properly directed against such publications as are, from the first, in- tended to challenge the approbation of the Public. He cannot flatter himself with the hope that these pages will be found equally agreeable to all readers. To some they will appear in parts defective, as they undoubt- edly are; to others, the Author may seem occasionally prolix, in recording the particulars of conversations held with different individuals, either on the civil or on the mi- litary state of the countries in which he resided. Yet those books are perhaps the most instructive, and not the least entertaining, which record tilings as they really happened. "Truth," says an admired author, "needs no ornament^ and in my opinion what she borrows from the pencil is deformity." His professional duties led the Author to pay a parti- cular and a minute attention to the climate and to the ma- ladies of which it is productive. That dreadful disease, which has been emphatically denominated the Plague, was necessarily a prominent object in this fatal catalogue; and, unfortunately for the army which he accompanied, few Europeans have had equal opportunities of witnessing its ravages. The information which he was able to obtain from the Practitioners of the country he endeavoured care- fully to compare with the facts which fell under his own ob- servation: and he has laboured to divest himself of every prejudice in investigating the causes and nature of a mala- dy which has depopulated whole countries, and destroyed myriads of persons in a short period of time; which bids defiance to every system, and baffles the skill of the ables: professors of the medical art. PREFACE. IX In the orthography of names, whether of persons or of places, and of those local terms which relate to the parti- cular usages of the countries he visited, the Author has not adhered to any written authority. In these cases there is a general disagreement among the learned : no rule has been established; nor is it practicable to a foreigner to refer to etymology in languages in which he cannot be profoundly versed. He has therefore pursued that method which, if not the most correct, was that which he could with most safety and convenience adopt, to be governed by the ear, and to note down these names as they were delivered by those to whom their oral use and general application had rendered them familiar. CO CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. Military Mission appointed to proceed to Turkey. Object of the Mission. Name: of the officers who ace mpanied it. Departuie of General Koehler overland, and of the Author by sea. Their respective arrivals at Constantinople. The cere- monies of consecra ing the Grand Vizier's Standard 5 of the Captain Pacha's departure J arid of the Vizier's taking the field. Page 17 CHAP. II. Visit to Pera. Captain Franklin returns to England. Description of Constantino- ple j mosques and minarets 5 external appearance of the city ; the seraglio. Suburbs of Galeta, Pera, and Tophana j Scutari j the Bosphorus ; population; amusements. Turkish ships. Interior of the Turkish houses; ceremonies; dogs ; police. 24 CHAP. III. Removal to Buyukderei Description of that village. Favourite amusements of the Grand Seignor. Barracks appointed for the Mission at Levant Chiflick. Description of that place. Dysentery prevalent among the soldiers of the Mis- sion. Introduction to the principal officers of the Sublime Porte. Excessive heat. Description of the Turkish horses, and the mode of treating them. Miscellaneous remarks on the natural history, &c. of the country. Frogs and Grashoppers. Evening walks at Bnyukdere, and amusements of the Greeks. Dress and manners of the Turkish wom^n ; of the Greeks. Abundance and cheapness of pro"isions at Buyukdere; oxen and buffaloes. Harvest in Turkey. Oppressions exercised by the Mahommedan? on the Christians. Grand Seignor visits Chiflick, and distributes small money to the English soldiers. Turks taught to practise with red-hot shot. Description of Kaithana, the place ap- pointed for artillery experiments. On board the Charon find two Englishmen redeemed from slavery. Liberal conduct of a French officer. Greek rejoicings on St. John's day. Entertainment at the Ruffian ambassadors's. Visit to Con- stantinople. Account of the bazars. Further remarks on the city ; the seraglio ; the mint ; mosque of Sant!*-Sophia. Greek amusements. Visit on board the Sultan Selim. Sick and wounded soldiers arrive from Acre. Conferences with the Turkish Secretary of War on this subject. Order to attend the Grand Seignor. 2$ CHAP. III. Visit to Levant Chiflick, In compliance with the orders of the Grand Seignor. Practice with red-hot shot. Presents distributed to the officers and men. Or- ders to attend the Grand Seignor again ; interview with him — -consulted by the Aga. Grand procession on the op ning of the festival of the Biram Cour- Lam. Turkish entertainment. Remarks on the productions of the season in Turkey, on the diseases of the country, and the state of medical science there. Procession and festival of the dervises. Remarks on the climate and weather. Village and aqueducts of Belgrade. Character of the Turkish vilbg-s. Visit to the Asiatic shore. Order for removal of the troops. Fire near Constantinople. De- scription of Santa-Sophia. Greek marriage, Remarks on the Turkish fortress -■ 1 mbarkation of the troops; 4] 12 CONTENTS. CHAP. V. Departure from Constantinople. "Voyage to Chennecally. Sestos and Abydoj. Tower of Leander. Arrival at Chennecally. Join the Captain Pacha's fleet. Visit of the officers on board the Sultan Selim. Character of the Captain Pacha. Present state of the Turkish marine. Dishonesty of a Turkish marine. Visit to the ancient Sigaem. Recovery of some curious remains of antiquity. De- scription of the plain of Troy, and the tombs of Achilles, Patroclus, and Ajax. Mount Ida. Description of Chennecally. Castles of the Dardanelles. Abydos. Decapitation of a Turkish Admiral. Dardania. Orders received to return to Constantinople. Arrival there. 5^ CHAP. VI. Reception at Constantinople. Castle of the Seven Towers. Palace of Belisarius. Apprehension of the plague. Execution of several Turks for robberies. The Harts, or residence of the Turkish merchants. Sudden changes of weather at Constantinople; fall of snow. Panorama of Constantinople. Fatal effects from burning chaicoal ; seven ladies of the Grand Vizier suffocated. Use of t e bath in Turkey. Travelling in Turkey. Singular religious ceremony. Dirt rent sects of dervises. Intercepted dispatches from the French army. The Rama- rsn. Splendid illuminations. Greek marriage. Ceremonies on board a Rus- sian ship of war. Feast of Biram. The chief of the white eunuchs. Shock eff an earthquake. Violent changes in the temperature. Singular punishment in- flicted on a Turk for assaulting an Englishman. Formidable hordes of banditti in the vicinity of the metropolis. Singular mode of communicating the plague to a French officer. Launch of a Turkish seventy-four. Leander's tower. Town of Scutari. Celebration of Easter among the Greeks. Daring robbery in the open street. Severe execution of Janissaries and seamen. Capitan Pacha sails from Constantinople. Beautiful appearance of the Asiatic shore. Feast of the Biram Courbam. Prayers on board the Turkish admiral's ship. Description of the mosques at Constantinople. Execution of the Pacha of Nicomedia. Fete given by Lord Elgin on his Majesty's birth-day. Preparations for the departure of the Mission to join the Grand Vizier's army. Anecdote of the Grand Vizier. 6$ CHAP. VII. The Mission set sail from Constantinople ; anchor at Prince's Islands. Visit to Adam Oglou. Greek islands. Description of Patmos ; Stancho. Immense Oriental plain. Cyprus; description of that island. Plague of locusts. Arrival at Jaffa ; description of that place and its vicinity. 89 CHAP. VIII. Junction with the Grand Vizier. Alarming information concerning the breaking out of the plague. Encampment near Jaffa j dangers and inconveniencies of this situation. Intelligence received of the assassination of General Kleber. Turkish artillery. Amusement of djerid. Encampment of the Mission. Tur- kish officers of state. Character of the Grand Vizier; of the Reis Effendi. Description of Jaffa ; storming of that pUce by the French; inhuman conduct ascribed by the Turks to Buonaparte. Warm bath in the. camp. Eruptive complaint. Anecdote evincing the extreme ignorance of the Turks in matters of science. Insurrection at Nablous. Undisciplined and disorderly state of the Turkish soldiery. Scene of the massacre committed on their captives by the French. Military exercise of the Turks. Plague breaks out among the Ma- melukes. Russian agent at Jaffa dies of the plague. Review of the Turkish army. Plague continues to rage among the Mamelukes. Description of an Arab village, and its inhabitants. First stone laid of the new fortification at Jaffa. Dissection of a cameleon. Mameluke chiefs die of the plague. Inso- lence of the Arnauts, and weakness of the Turkish government. Egyptian jug- glers. Camp infested by large packs of jackals. Desertion of Arnauts. Account oftheDehlis. 9$ CONTENTS. 13 CHAP. IX. Progress through the Holy Land. Ruins of a Tower erected in honour of forty martyrs. Atabian dwellings. Ramla. Date trees. Ophthalmia. Residence of the Jewish monarchs. St. Jerom. Arrival at Jerusalem ; situation of that city j Solomon's temple; residence of Pontius Pilate. Extraordinary thrt-at of Buonaparte. Mount of Olives; David's tower; holy sepulchre; scene of our Saviour's sufferings ; tomb of Baldwin. Humanity and good sense of a Turk- ish santon. Visit from the Mufti. Armenian convent; head of St. James; Mount Sion; Bethlem ; temple of St. Catharine; pools of Solomon; gardens of Solomon ; birth-place of our Saviour ; receptacle of the murdered Innocents ; tomb of St. Jerom ; convent of St. Catharine. Inhabitants of Bethlem. Sepulchres of the kings ; sepulchre of the Virgin Mary ; valley of Jehosaphat; impression of our Saviour's foot on the Mount of Olives; tombs of Absalom and Zachariah ; welis of Nehemiah; burial-place of King David ; convent of St. Helena ; birth place of John the Baptist. Josech of Arimathea. Topographical account of the most interesting objects in the Holy Land. iifi CHAP. X. Irregularities in the Turkish camp. Governor of Damascus beheaded. Memo- rial delivered to the Grand Vizier on the state of the camp. Desertion of Tur- kish chiefs and soldiers. Tents plundered by Arabs. Plague among the Ma- melukes and Albanians, Mutiny of the Janissaries ; ceremonies on paying them their arrears. Alarms excited by reports from El-Arish. Decapitation of Turk- ish soldiers for gaming. Ravages by the plague. Insurrection in Palestine on account of the heavy impositions of the government. Disastrous state of the British Mission. Death of a m litary artificer. A British gunner dies of the plague. Death of Mrs. Koehler, and of the General. Precautions employed to stop the progress of the plague. Turkish entertainments in camp. Removal of the camp. Instances of insubordination in the camp. Effective force of the Turkish army. Observations on the plague. Vizier's physician dies of the plague. Ramazan. Lydda. The Grand Vizier indisposed, and attended by the Author. Celebration of the Biram in camp. Remarks on the country about Jaffa. Climate or Syria; face of the country and soil; productions of Syria; sheep and goats; other cattle ; habitations of the Syrians; camels and other beasts of burthen ; character and manners of ihc Syrians. Abject state of the farmers, or husbandmen. Bedouins, or wandering Arabs. Agriculture of Syria; diseases of Syria. j^ c CHAP. xr. The army of the Grand Vizier; principal officers; different casts of people; arti- ficers and attendants. Precarious state of greatness in the Turkish govern- ment. Standards ; dervises. Gross superstition of the Turks. Tradition relative to the downfall of the Turkish empire. Origin and present state of the Janissaries. The Arnauts ; light cavalry ; volunteers. Religious sectaries who follow the army. Plunderers; Mameluke ; Arabian camel-drivers. Thievish disposition of the Arabs. Tartars. Guards of honour. General character of the Turks. Personal courage j superstition; temperance; addiction to coffee and tobacco ; games ; pay and allowance of the soldiery. Miserable state of the medical art among the Turks. Horsemanship. 16S? CHAP. XII. Narrative resumed. Breaking up of the camp at J. ;ffa. March of the army. New encampment. Account of General Mustaprta, alias Campbell. Singular fact relative to the plague communicated by General Mustapha. Several deaths by the plague. Rock where Samson was surprised by the Philistines. Ekron; Ashdod ; Askalon ; Ramah of Gilead. Preparations for march ; order of the march. New encampment near Esdal, or Ashtaol. Arab villages ; Ashdod, or Axotus. Progress of the army. Country round Ascalon described. Dearth of 14 CONTENTS. corn in the camp. March towards Gaza ; encampment near Gaza • visit t^ that place. Porch of which Samson carried away the gates ; place of his death. Descripcion of the city and suburbs of Gaza ; port of Gaza ; delightful gardens. Antelopes, quails, jackalls. Strong detachments sent from the Vizier's army for the purpobe of active operations. Successful progress of the Biitish army in Egypt. Scarcity of specie in the Ottoman army. March of the army • diffi- culties of the march. Encampment at Kahnyounes. Further mar. h 'of the Ottoman army. Entrance into Africa. Encampment in the desert- march over the desert; arrival at El-Arish. Regu'ations of the Grand Vizier! Arri- val of fresh troops. Detachment sent off towards Salahieh. Serious disagree- ment in the Turkish camp. Storm in the desert. Deficiency of provender* Kampsin wind. Casual supply intercepted by Bedouin Arabs. ArrivaJ in camp of a French deserter. Loss of camels. Embarkation of civil artificers for Tineh. March from El-Arish. Crossing the desert. Encampment at Barahcat, March across the desert to Theah ; encampment there. March to Bir-Denedar. Overflowing of the Nile. Encampment at Kantara. March into Salahieh! Curious huts inhabited by Arabs. Flight of the French from Salahieh ; for- tress of Salahieh. Debility occasioned by the Kampsin wind. Inhabitants of Egypt. March to Korin ; village cf Korin. Precious Jtones. Egyptian par- tridges. Flocks of doves Belbeis. Mode of getting in corn in E^ypt. Op- pressive heat. Appearance of the enemy. Taher P'.cha detached in pursuit. Action between the French and Taher Pacha, in which the former were defeated. Ill state of discipline in the Turkish army. Sackars. March from Belbeis to Meshtoule. Encampment on the Nile ; water of the Nile. The Delta. Ar- rival of General Hutchinson in the Vizier's camp. Diseases in the Turkish camp. March to Dagono. Great pyramids of Gaza. Diseases in the British army. March to Shellacan. New encampment on the banks of the Nile. Ar- misiice agreed on with the French. Fort Shoulkuski and the pyramids of Giza surrendered. Convention agreed upon. Heliopolis. Clouds of dust. British troops take possession of Cairo. Description of Cairo j citadel; grand aque- duct} baths j the Mekias, or Nilometer. jgj chap. xnr. Excursion to the pyramids of Giza. The three great pyramids. Entrance Into the great pyramid. Dimensions of the great pyramid ; of the passage within- side ; passages into the pyramid ; gallery. The great Sphynx. Vestiges of an- tique buildings. Ascent to the summit of the exterior. Distant view of the pyramids of Saccara. Present ft om the Sultan to the Vizier; ceremony on this ' occasion. Festival on the birth-day of the mother of Mahomed. Marriage pro- cession at Cairo. Details relative to the plague. Indisposition of the Grand Vizier. Death of Mr. Whiteman, Unhealthiness of the climate of Egypt. Ex- cessive heat. The date tree and its fruit. Opening of the canal. Inundation of the Nile. Interesting conversation with an Abysinian priest. Confirmation of Bruce's authenticity. Voyage in company with Mr. Clarke and others to view the pyramids of Saccara, and the plain of Mummies. Chief Atman. Arab marriage. Pyramids of Saccara. Plain of the Mummies. Supposed site of Memphis. Descent into the Catacombs 5 horrid appearance. Pit, or catacomb of birds. Egyptian idols. 2 "ii CHAP. XIV. Excursion to Old Cairo. Grotto where the holy family took refuge from Herod's persecution. Chapel of St. George. Expected visit from the Prophet Mahomed. Armistice concluded with the French at Alexandria. Excursion to Boulac. Account of the Colcassium. The saffron shrub; Cassira ; Egyptian thorn; gumarabic; herbaceous plants. Surrender of Alexandria to the British. Mag- nificent burial places. Marriage processions. Inundation of the Nile. Excur- sion to Mount Mokatam. Slave market. Leprosy. Vcyage on the Nile to Alexandria. Menouf. Two villages swept away by the overflowing of the Nile. Western branch of the Nile. Manner of preparing the indigo. Plantations of lice aad sugar-canes. Ro.Setta. Plague among the British troops under General CONTENTS. 15 Baird. Lake of Aboukir. Arrival at Alexandria. Pompey's pillar. Cleopa- tra's needle. Part of the eclossus of Merrmon. Return to Cairo. 246 CHAP. XV. Description of Grand Cairo; the citadel ; conjectures relative to its antiquity 5 for- tifications raised by the French ; the mint ; remarkable debasement of the coin ; streets of Cairo ; construction of the houses ; interior and furniture of the houses; palaces of the Beys ; mosques ; dimensions of the city ; bazars, or shops. Improvisatori. Population of Cairo. Joseph's well. Palace of the Caliph Salah-Ed-Din. Inhabitants of Cairo. Coptic language ; dress; manufactures; •word-blades ; horses. Commerce of Egypt. Amusements of Cairo. Dancing girls; jugglers ; tumblers anJ posture-masters. Old Cairo. Boulac ; grand aqueduct ; b-asts of burthen ; the buffaloe, oxen, goats, fowls, &c. Fruits of Egypt; vegetables; corn. 26* CHAP. XVI. Arrest of the Mameluke Beys. Procession accompanying the sacred carpet for covering the house of God at Mecca. Several Beys killed at Alexandria by the persons sent to arrest them. Anecdotes relative to the plague. Contest between the Albanians and Mograbian Arabs. Experiment with the freezing mixture. Subsiding of the Nile. Excursion to Heliopolis and the lake of pilgrims. Ex- cursion to Upper Egypt ; to Hallouan. Present to the Author of a Mummy. Tourrah ; the castle. Rout at the Imperial Consul's. Procession from Boulac. Caravan to Mecca. Plague at Alexandria. Vizier prepares to quit Egypt. Mamelukes privately depart from Giza. Mission ordered to Alexandria; Audi- ence of leave. Gold medals presentsd to the officers. 271 CHAP. XVII. Plague breaks out in the buildings occupied by the British Miffion. Departure of the Janissaries. Departure of the Vizier. Excursion of the Nile. Site of the ancient city of Memphis. Remains of the Mekias. Departure from Cairo. Observations on the rise and fall of the Nile. 282 CHAP. xvm. Voyage on the Nile from Cairo to Rosetta. Canal of Menouf. Cruel instance of devastation by the Turks. Dangers attending the passage down the Nile. Dahroot. Cemetery. Death of the Sheick. Wretched state of the inhabitants. Arrival at Roserta. Plague among the English troops at Rosetta. Some account of the fort and harbour. Fort Julien. Hunting of the ostrich. Buildings at Rosetta. Population; bazars; wharf, Animals indigenous to this part of Egypt. Fish; manufactures; gardens; morasses; diseases. Plague rages at Rosetta. The Mission embark for Alexandria ; land on the peninsula leading to Alexandria, where they perform quarantine. Sepoy tried by a court-martial for suffering Arabs to escape from quarantine. Cases of plague in the lazaretto. Miffion released from quarantine. Festivities in commemoration of victories. Temple of Diana. Catacombs and baths of Cleopatra. a$i CHAP. XIX. Departure for Constantinople. Stormy weather. Obliged to take refuge in the island of Castel Rosso. Ancient Cistene. Some ace junt of Castel Rosso. Island of Rhodes; description of the town and island; ancient habitation of the knights; colossus of Rhodes; ancient Rhodes; state and cultivation of the island; the arsenal; villages; dress; vegetable productions. Departure from Rhodes. Stancho ; town and island of Stancho ; population; aqueduct; fountain; game. Coast of Andolia. Island of Samos. Seala-Nova. Arrival at Scio. 3°* CHAP. XX. Appearance and dress of the Greek women of the island of Scio. Light-houses; Greek convent at Nehahmoneej curious decorations ; soil and cultivation of the jft CONTENTS. island; school of Homer ; gum mastic; Del Campo; population; town of Scio; streets ; markets ; wines ; port of Scio. Passage to Smyrna. Population of the town of Scio ; churches; general hospitals; hosoital for lepers; some ac- cunt of this disease; general diseasfs ; medicinal spring. Departure from Scio. Ivlicylene. Lesbos. Town of Castro; markets; taverns; oil; population; fruit. Island cf Tenedos ; town and forts; commodities. Isle of Rabbits. Banks of the Seaman ier. Plain of Troy. Tomb of Patrodus. Combcally. Shennacally. Arrival at Constantinople. 31 j CHAP. XXI. Embarkation at Buyukdere. Arrival at Varna. Yenipazzar ; Rasgat. Appre- hensions from banditti. Rouzchook; Georgival. General terror on account of the approach of Paswan Oglou. Embarkation for Galatz in Moldavia. Torkotoi. Mills elevated on boats. Villages on fhe. Distressing scene of de- vastation. Voyage on the Danube. Description of the vessels. Banks of the Danube. Fugitives from banditti. Rossovat ; Girsow; Galatz; Borlat ; Yassi. Entrance into Poland. Chernowich. Journey through part of Poland. Salt- pits at Wiliska. Cracow ; Shottau ^ Silesia ; Neislischene. Arrival at Vienna. Vaccine innoculation introduced there. Cathedral of St. Stephen ; Widden theatre: Imperial library; menage; theatre de la cour; cabinet of medals; general hospital ; cabinet of natural history. New and singular opinion on the brain. Hospital for lunatics. Anecdote relative to the Emperor Joseph II. Imperial palace at Schombrun. Menagerie; observatory; model of our Savi- our's sepulchre ; arsenal; collection of pictures. Departure from Vienna. 326 CHAP. XXII. Journey through Germany. Lintz. Glandular swellings. Dress of the women in Bavaria. Houses. Ratisbon ; Franconia. Dress of the female peasants. Wurtz- burg ; the palace, citadel, and bridge. Esselbach ; EschafFenberg ; Dettingen ; Haaau ; Frankfort; Koenigstein. Seltzer water. Limbourg ; Dowz ; Dussel- dorf. Seat of the Prince Palatine. Dress of the peasants. Duybourg ; Wesel ; Arnheim. Roads in Holland. Face of the country and cultivation. Utrecht ; Rotterdam ; Helvoctsluys. Arrival in England. 341 3ppcnDir. Containing a Medical Journal, Historical Journal of Plague, andaMeteoxologic.il Journal. 353 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &c. CHAPTER I. Military mission appointed to proceed to Turkey. Object of the mission. Names of the officers ivho accompanied it. Departure of General Koehler over land, and of the Author by sea. Their respective arrivals at Constantinople. The ceremonies of consecrating the Grand Vixier^s standard ; of the Capitan Pa- cha' 's departure ; and of the Viziers taking the field. TOWARDS the close of the year 1793, a plan was formed by his Majesty's ministers to send to the dominions of the Grand Seignor a British military mission, which was to proceed to the seat of war, and to co-operate with the Turks against the common enemy, the French, who had by that time gained a strong footing in Egypt. For this purpose General Koehler , who had been at Constantinople on a former occasion, was select- ed, together with several officers belonging to the corps of royal engineers and royal artillery. These, with a certain number of non-commissioned officers and privates belonging to the corps of artillery, and a few artificers, composed the above mission, con- sisting altogether of seventy-six persons. The officers who were appointed on this occasion to act under General Koehler, were, Lieutenant Colonel Hollowatfi of the royal engineers; Majors Hope and Lead, of the royal artillery ; Major Fletcher and Captain Lacy, of the royal engineers ; and Captain Leake, of the royal artillery ; Captain Franklin, who was in the service of the Honourable East India Company, went in the (3) |8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, capacity of secretary to General Koehler ; Mr. Chandler as commissary; Mr. Whiteman, assistant commissary; Messrs. Bead and Pink, draughtsmen , and Dr. Wittman, surgeon to the mission. In order that no time should be lost in carrying into effect the important object which this mission had in view, Brigadier Gene- ral Koehler 9 Lieutenant Colonel Bolloway, commanding the en- gineers ; Major Hope, commanding the artillery; Majors Fead and Fletcher, Captain Franklin, and Mr. Pink, set out from England in the month of December, to proceed over land to Con- stantinople, h may readily be conceived that, at so inclement a season of the year, they had great difficulties to encounter in the j secution of such a journey. Eut previously to entering upon this subject, it will be proper to narrate the progress of that part of the detachment which was to proceed by sea. It was the beginning of April before the Neil) Adventure trans- port, having on board the remainder of the officers, the non-com- missioned officers, and the privates, together with the artillery and ordnance stoics necessary for the expedition, sailed from England, under convoy of his Majesty's ship the Charon, of forty- four guns, and made a safe passage to Gibraltar, in the course of which no remarkable incident took place, except the usual occurrence at this season of the year of bad weather in the bay cf Biscay, when the transport being too heavily laden, sprang a leak, and a quantity oi stores and some pontoons were obliged to be thrown overboard. A military artificer was unfortunately washed off the vessel by a surf, and was immediately drowned. Early in the morning of the od of May we weighed anchor, and sailed from Gibraltar. At ten o'clock bore away with a fair breeze from the westward, which continuing to blow from the same quarter, we reached Palermo on the 11th of May, after a very agreeable passage of eight days. Our stay at Palermo afford- ed us leisure to admire the beautiful view of the city, its suburbs, and the adjacent country, which is extremely pleasant and well cultivated, and the level surface of which forms a striking contrast with the high and rugged mountains behind. Our curiosity was indeed wrought to a very high pitch, and, stimulated by this, and the aversion to the sea, so natural to those accustomed to live on shore, we felt a very ardent desire to land, but were disappointed. We sailed in the evening, and were thus prevented from viewing the many curious and interesting objects which Palermo contains. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 9 On foe following day we were becalmed on the coast of Sicily, from which we were at so small a distance, that we had a distinct view of Mount Etna and Strombolo, than which nothing could he more awfully grand. The Lipari islands added to the efFect of this fine scene. We passed on the 13th through the straits 0$ Messina, and were swept along by the rapid current without experiencing any unplea- sant sensation. On the contrary, as the day was very fine and clear, we had a full view of the city of Messina, and the cheering prospect of a beautiful and richly diversified coast, sometimes cloud- ed by the recollection of the dreadful earthquake which a few years since spread desolation through this delightful countrv. On the 14th, we were becalmed on the coast of Calabria. On the 15th, we made some progress, notwithstanding the wind was contrary. Owing to this circumstance, we did not oiscry the island of Zante until the I 8th, when it was distant about seven or eight leagues. It was in sight on the following day, the little wind that there was still continuing unfavourable. Early in the morning of the 22d, we made Cerigo, which bore from us E. N. E. distant about seven miles. On the 23d, we des- cried Milo, whence, after several ineffectual attempts to procure a pilot, we were driven by a strong north-east gale upon the Morca. From that time until the 25th, we were engaged in working to windward, to regain our station, which we at length effected, but were driven back. On the morning of the 27th, we were so fortunate as to pass between the islands of Thermea and Ser/o, two of the Cijelades : the wind blowing extremely hard from the N. E. our mainsail was split. In the afternoon we were close in with Mycone, another of the Cy eludes. On the 28th, we passed the island of Niearia. It blew a fresh gale, and we shipped a large quantity of water. Our stock of fresh provisions was by this time exhausted. On the 29th, we passed near the island of Seio ; and on the 31st, descried Mytelene. On the evening of the 2d of June we were close in with the island of Tenedos ; and, being becalmed on the fallowing day,, were driven by the force of the current, which set in from the mouth of the Dardanelles, too far to the westward to be enabled to make the straits. On the 4th, in the afternoon, we entered the Dardanelles; but, the wind dying away, were under the necessity of coming to an 20 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, anchor soon after, at the distance of five rniies within the entrance. We were there detained by contrary winds until the 11th, when a favourable gale springing up, we made sail at about eleven o'clock in the morning, and passed the town of Gallipoli at five in the afternoon. Early in the morning of the 14th, we were in sight of Constan- tinople. We were shortly afterwards overtaken by a storm of thun- der, lightning, and rain. At three in the afternoon we came to anchor in the harbour, the Charon and transport having fired a royal salute on passing the Seraglio, which the reader need not be informed is the palace of the Grand Seignor. This term has been vulgarly applied to all places where the Oriental people confine their w> mien, bnt, in fact, these are called Ilarams, and the word seraglio is a strictly local appellation. The city, harbour, and environs, presented a magnificent spectacle, new in everv respect to our eyes, both as to the architecture of the principal edifices and the construction of the city itself, but which was on the whole extremely fine and picturesque. The whole of the mission was now assembled at Constantinople. The officers who had proceeded thither overland, had anxiously waited our arrival ; and on our side we felt an equal impatience to join them. Our mutual greetings were followed bv mutual en- quiries; and we collected from them the following particulars rela- tive to their journey, and to the events which had occurred during their residence in the capital of the Turkish dominions. Their journey, in the outset, had been attended by uncommon severities ; such, however, as might have been expected from a season more rigorous than anv which had been experienced for many years. In passing over to the continent, they had, at the entrance of the Elbe, been shipwrecked among the shoals of ice ; and, to relieve themselves from this perilous situation, had been under the necessity of passing over the ice, to the extent of two miles, to gain the shore. By this effort, however, they w r ere pro- videntially saved. They now prosecuted their journey to Constan- tinople, where they arrived in the month of March 1799, having set out, as has been mentioned before, towards the close of the pre- ceding year. On the 17th of the following month, slpril, it was officially notified to them, that the Grand Vizier had appointed the foilow r - jng day for their first presentation. He had made choice of this day, as being that which was fixed on for the ceremony of the SYRIA, EGYPT, .GERMANY, &C. 21 consecration of his Standard, previously to his taking the field, and to his promotion to the rank of a pacha of three tails — a ceremony which could not fail, to be highly gratifying to strangers. To this mark of attention our officers were not insensible. At eleven o'clock in the morning they were conducted to the sublime Porte, under an escort of a body of janissaries, and attended by an interpreter. They were led to an apartment, whence they had a view of the hall of the divan, and of an extensive court-yard, in which a very numerous body of Turks was assembled at pray- ers. A little before noon the standard, supported by several of the great officers of state, was brought with great ceremony from the hall, and carried to the bottom of a flight of steps, the different religious sects, the Mufti, lmans, Dervises, &c. being in front of the procession. A solemn prayer, in which the spectators joined, having been repeated, and the Mufti perceiving that the sun was at irs meridian height, the standard was raised and planted. This part of the ceremony having been accomplished, twelve sheep were immolated, and the foot of the standard washed with their blood. In this state it was to remain forty days, at the expiration of which time his Royal Highness was to take the field. The great officers, namelv, the Mufti, the head of the Ulema, the Kiabey, the Reis EfFendi, the Tefterdar, the Janissary Aga, &c. who had attended on this occasion, now took leave, the Mufti being accompanied to his carriage, a small close vehicle covered with scarlet cloth, by the Vizier himself. On the close of the ceremony the British officers were introduced to the Reis Effendi,"or secretary of state for foreign affairs, by whom they were conducted and presented to his royal highness the Grand Vizier. They found him seated in the corner of a room, richly furnished in the 'Turkish style, and surrounded by a numerous body of attendants and mutes, all of them superbly and elegantly dressed. Our officers being seated, they were served, according to the custom of the country, with pipes, sweetmeats, coffee, sherbet, rose-water and other perfumes. No mark of distinction due to their rank was neglected on this occa- sion ; and after they had been apprised that an early day would be appointed for a second interview, they withdrew. 1 his interview was not delayed. It took place five days after the preceding one, on the 22d of sJpril, at the^kioscjue at Kaiihana, where his highness the Vizier had assembled a party of Turkish artillery, and a corps of infantry, for a review, and for artillery practice. The latter succeeded much better than our officers had 22 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, been led to expect. The Turkish artillery-men beat down the tai- get several times, and their mortar practice was by no means con- temptible. Less praise was due to the manoeuvres of the infantry, and to the sham-fight which ensued. The 26th of April was the day appointed for the ccremonv of the Capitan Pacha taking leave of the Sultan, previously to the sailing of his fleet, which was to act in concert with the Ottoman land forces. The following was the etiquette observed on this occasion, at which the Jhitish officers were present. The Sultan, surrounded by his guards, officers of state, and attendants, all richly dressed, was seated in a magnificent kiosque, at a small distance from the seraglio point. The Capitan Pacha having been intro- duced, and having had a short conference with the Grand Seignor, the purport of which was, as we conjectured, to receive his high commands and pleasure, was invested with a rich caftan, or robe of honour. Six of the captains of his fleet were next conducted to within a few paces of the Sultan, and having made their obeisance, were invested with the caftan. The Capitan Pacha now retired, being supported on each side by an attendant, as is customary with all Turks of rank on these public occasions, and led by the proper officers. He was in this manner conducted to a very ele- gant twenty-four oared barge of a great length, richly gilt and or- namented. Another barge of the same description carried his flag ; and this was followed by four barges, with twenty rowers in each. Such were the ceremonials observed on the return of the Capitan Pacha to his ship, the Sultan Sclim, the guns at the seraglio point, and the men of war, saluting him on his way. On the 20th of May, General Koehler and the officers proceeded to Scutari in Asia Minor, opposite to Constantinople, to be pre- sent at the ceremony of the Vizier taking the field. His Highness having taken leave oi the Grand Seignor, passed over to Scutari, the guns at the seraglio point saluting him on his way. At Scutari, the streets through which he passed were lined with troops, both cavalry and infantry. He was attended by the Kai- r,iacan, Capitan Pacha, and all the great officers of state, preceded by a band of Turkish music, and by a group of gladiators, who skirmished as the procession passed along. The troops, by whom his Highness was accompanied, consisting both of cavalry and in- fantry, were clad and armed in various ways. Some of them were enveloped in curious network coats of mail of steel ; others wore yellow dresses, decorated with ribbons of different colours hanging SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C 2J from the shoulders, and brass helmets on their heads. Others again were clad in party-coloured dresses. While a part of them were armed with spears, or lances, from twelve to fourteen feet in length, others carried short, twisted, rifle-barrel guns, the rest muskets, carbines, &c The whole ot' them wuie swords and, pistols in sashes fastened round their waist. The Vizier, the Caps- tan Pacha, the Kaimacan, and other officers, were mounted on beautiful horses richly caparisoned. The one which his Highness rode made the most magnificent appearance, the embroidered trap- pings being studded with gems, pearls, &c. The hilt of the hand- jar, or dirk, which his Highness carried at his side was covered with a profusion of diamonds. It is impossible to contemplate these pompous ceremonies, and not to contrast them with the secrecy and silence with which the first movements of European armies are undertaken. It must be a trifling nation which can delay an expedition of importance, even for a single day, lest some little rite or ceremony should be omitted. And it is truly impolitic thus to advertise an enemy, for even months beforehand, of the advance of an army. When these circumstan- ces, and the facts which will be hereafter related, are considered, the reader will not be surprised at the little success which com- monly attends the Turkish, military operations. A number of dervises were distributed among the Turkish troops, who are constantly attended when they go to war by persons of this character, to exhort them to valour, and to kindle up their enthusiasm by their shouts and singing. The Vizier's camp was formed about a mile without the town of Scutari. On this occasion a vast multitude of persons of both sexes, whom curiosity had drawn thither, attended, but not the smallest accident or disturbance ensued. On the 1st of June his Highness proceeded on his march for Syria. Major Fletcher, of the royal engineers, was ordered to accompany him on this service; but was unfortunately taken ill a few days after he set out, and under the necessity of returning to ('oistar.tinople. About the same time, Major Fead, of the royal artillery, was ;ered to St. John d'slcre, to which place he proceeded in a 'Tur- kish ship of war. This excellent officer shortly afterwards fell a victim to a malignant fever. 24 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, CHAPTER II. fail to Pcra. Captain Franklin returns to England. Description y hideous. As they have no masters to acknowledge them, and to adminisrer to their wants, they have to seek their precarous su >>is f - ence abroad, which they rake up from among the filth t'irowo nit from the houses. So defective, indee ', is the police in point of cleanliness, that these dogs, and the vultures, are the only scaven- gers in Constantinople. In the cemeteries, great numbers of doi *s, which the Turks do not attempt to molest, inhabit t e cypress groves; and, indeed, swarm wnerever these trees are planted. fcS TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, CHAPTER III. Removal to Buyukdere. Description of that village. Favourite amusements of the Grand Seignor. Barracks appointed for the mission at Levant Chiflick. Description of that place. Dysentery prevalent among the soldiers of the mis- sion. Introduction to the principal officers of the Sublime Porte. Excessive heat. Description of the Turkish horses, and the mode of treating them. Miscellaneous remarks on the natural history, &c. of the country. Frogs and grasshoppers. Evening iioalks at Buyukdere, and amusements of the Greeks. Dress and ?nanners oj the Turkish vjomen 5 of the Greeks. Abundance and cheapness of provisions at Buyukdere. Oxen and Buffaloes. Harvest in Tuikey. Oppressions exercised by the Mahommedans on the Christians. Grand Seignor visits Chiflick, and distributes small money to the English soU diers. Turks taught to practise vjith red hot shot. Description oj Kaithana, the place appointed for artillery experiments. On board the Charon find tvjo Englishmen redee?ned from slavery. Liberal conduct of a French officer, Greek rejoicings on St. John's day. Entertainment at the Russian a?nbassa- dors. Visit to Constantinople. Account of the Bazars. Further remarks on the city. The seraglio. The mint. Mosque of Santa-Sophia. Greek amusements. Visit on board the Sultan Selim. Sick and vuounded soldiers arrive from Acre. Conferences nvith the Turkish secretary of voar on this subject. Order to attend the Grand Seignor. iN the 18th of June I removed my baggage, medicines, &zc. to Buyukdere, where I took up my residence in a house pro- vided for us close to the sea shore. The village of Buyukdere is very pleasingly situated on the European side of the Bosphorus, not far from the entrance of the Black Sea, and is distant from Constantinople about twelve miles. As its name implies, it stands on a large level surface, buyuk in the Turkish signifying great, and dere a ralley. It commands a most delightful and romantic view. In its front is a beautiful strand, and behind it several heights or promontories, the scenery of which is picturesque in the extreme. On account of the agreeableness of its situation. Buyukdere has been chosen as the residence of several members of the diplomatic corps, whose palaces are situated on the eastern side of the plain. To the west of the village there is an extensive meadow, in the centre of which is a groupe of very large SYIUA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1<) plane trees. To this spot the Grand Seignor frequently retires in, the summer season, and is entertained by companies of rope-dan- cers, mountebanks, &c. These pastimes, in the course of which the most indecent buffoonery is occasionally introduced, are highly agreeable to him. The castle of Buyukdere stands on a lofty mountain, its position being not unlike that of Dover castle. It was built in the fifteenth century by the order of Sultan Mahomed, by whom the city of Constantinople was taken by storm, the em- peror Const ant ine falling in the attack by the hands of two Turks. In company with General Koehlcr and the other officers, on the 19 th, I dined with the Russian ambassador at his palace at Buy uk- dere, where we were sumptuously entertained. In the morning the general and myself went to Levant Chijiick to inspect the bar- racks, which were destined to receive our detachment. This place is distant about seven miles from Buyukdere, and nearly midway between it and Pera. A Capitan Pacha having formerly resided there, has bestowed on it its name, levant signifying a sailor, and chiflick a farm. Several of the country residences belonging to the Turkish grandees are also denominated chiflick, or the farm. Our ride was very agreeable. The country in the vicinity of Levant Chijiick is open and hilly, consisting principally of waste lands co- vered by fern and heath. There are, however; several spots laid out in gardens and vineyards. The soil, which is in some parts argillaceous, in others sandy with a mixture of slate, is in general poor; but in the valleys, which are best cultivated, tolerable crops of hay are produced. The quantity grown being however insuffi- cient for the support of the cattle in winter, they then fall off, and become poor and lean. During the summer season they are kept in good condition by the feed on the waste lands. On the 20th, twenty men belonging to the mission, and several women, were sent to the above barracks. On the 21st, I went on board the New Adventure transport, ly- ing in the harbour of Constantinople. In the afternoon I returned to Buyukdere by water. In the course of this day we had much thunder, lightning, and rain. On the 22d, I rode to Levant Ch//lick. The Turkish horses are in general small, from eleven to twelve and thirteen hands high, but they are sure footed. The Turkish saddle is somewhat incon- venient to Eu)'opeans; and as spurs are not employed, the rider is obliged to have recourse to his stirrups when he wishes the animal on which he is mounted to quicken his pace. It was with much 30 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, anxiety that I found the numbers on the sick list to have increased, the prevailing complaint being dysentery. On the 23d, the remainder of the detachment, with several of the officers, were sent to the barracks at Levant Chi/lick, which I visited for the purpose of arranging my quarters, &c. fur my occa- sional attendance. In these barracks we found a Turkish corps training to a more regular system of military tactics than they had hitherto been accustomed to. The other officers and myself were still to remain with the General at Buyukdere. This clay the military officers and the other gentlemen belonging to the mission, who had not already gone through that ceremony, that is, those among us who had reached Constantinople by sea, were introduced to the Kiamakan, Captain Pacha, &c. We were received with the customary Turkish compliments, and were treated with coffee, sherbet, pipes and tobacco, and perfumes. I dined this afternoon with Mr. Abbot, an English merchant, and treasurer to the Levant company, who had been settled in Tur- key forty-five years. He gave me some very useful information re- lative to the plague, and informed me that there were at that time two cases of this disease at Peru. On the 24th and 25th, I paid my customary visits to the barracks at Levant Chi/lick. During the night of the 24th, Mrs. Wilkin- son, wife to a corporal of the royal artillery, fell a victim to a dy- senteric complaint.' On that day we had very heavy showers of rain, with much thunder and lightning. The heat was excessive, the thermometer at six in the evening being at eighty-four in the shade, and the barometer at thirty. In the mean time the number of sick, labouring chiefly under dysenteric complaints, was much increased. On the 26th, on my return from the barracks, I dined with the General. On the 27th, I rode to the barracks on a small grey horse of the country breed, which I had procured for the purpose. The mode of shoeing horses in Turkey differs essentially from ours. The whole of the foot is covered by a thin plate of iron, the centre ex- cepted, in which there is a small perforation about the size of an English halfpenny. I did not observe that lameness was prevalent among these horses, who require much management. After one of them has been ridden, it is the custom to walk him in the open air for an hour or two, previously to his being put into the stable. The Turkish hoises are fed, while in the stable, upon barley and chaff SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 31 (or barley alone), and that sparingly, once or at most twice daily ; once a day they have water; they litter them in their own dung, which is first dried in the sun, The Turks are excellent grooms ; the skins of the horses are kept very clean and shining, as they fre- quently wash them all over with soap and water. In stables, and when not ridden, the horses are always fettered or tethered with cords, in order to prevent their lying down, and to keep them quiet, as the principal or best horses are stallions. The saddle is scarcely ever totally removed from the horse's back, except to clean him, even when in stable, and they are otherwise kept very warm, with thick clothes, and h-ods, &cc. I shall now make a short digression from my journal to describe several particulars relative to the country in which I resided. The frogs in Turkey are very large; and it is impossible to describe the noise they make, which must be heard to form a competent idea of it. The grasshoppers are also of a large size, and extremely noisy. In my rides to Chiflick my ears were perpetually dinned by the croaking of the former, and the discordant notes of the latter of these creatures. Our evening walks on the strand in front of Buyukdere were very pleasant and c eerful. This spot has a strong resemblance to the beach at Weymouth. The Greeks, and indeed most of the inhabitants, assemble in the evening to walk, or to amuse them- selves in boats, which are rowed up and down in front of the village. Music and singing constitute a part of these aquatic amusements, and, without being of the most exquisite kind, serve to diversify and enliven the scene. Buyukdere may with some propriety be compared to the tower of Babel: individuals belonging to almost every nation residing there, a strange mixture of languages must consequently ensue. The dresses of the inhabitants are as varied as are the languages. The Turkish women are fair; they cover the face, the eyes and a part of the nose excepted, with a piece of white muslin: another piece of muslin envelops the head. This part of their dress is styled mahramah. In stature they are rather low, and corpulent, the latter condition being much admired among themselves : they are usually clad in a long green garment, which hangs very low behind, with a square cape, resembling on the whole a riding dress, and it is cdWe&feredgt. They wear yellow boots with slippers over them, but the latter they take off on entering a house. They stain their finger-nails of a red colour, or, more properly speaking, 32 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, of a very deep orange, with the dried leaves, diluted with water, of the henna, or Egyptian privet (lewsonia inermis, Lin.), a large $hrub, which is much cultivated both in Turkey and in Egypt for this purpose. The 7\irkish females always walk abroad by themselves ; in fine weather they resort to some favourite spot without the towns, oc- cupy the banks, or seat themselves on the tomb-stones in their ce- meteries, .where they sit quietly for hours together. They appear to lead a most indolent life; their recreations and exercises being ex- tremely limited. The Greek women have the face, which is beautiful and of an oval form, uncovered. Their eyes are black, as are also their eye- brows, to which, as well as to their eyelids, they pay a particular attention, rubbing them over, to bestow on them a deeper hue, with a leaden ore reduced to an impalpable powder, blended with an unctuous matter to give it consistence. Their complexion is gene- rally pale. They wear their hair, which is of a great length, and of a deep shining black, in tresses, and sometimes turned back in a fanciful way on the head. In other instances it hangs loosely down the back, extending to the hips. They are commonly dressed in a pelice of silk, satin, or some other material: they are costly in their attire, in the choice of which they are not attached to any particu- lar colour. On the head they wear a small cap. The dress of the men nearly resembles that of the Turks; but they are not allowed to wear the kowouk, or turban of white muslin, for which thev are obliged to substitute the calpac, or blue turban, and none of the Greeks can wear yellow boots or slippers, except those who are in the service of the foreign ministers, &c. The Greek women marry at about the age of fifteen: they are short lived. At twenty-five they wrinkle and decay, bearing the appearance altogether of old women. They have fine children, who, however, partake of the palid complexion of the mothers. It is unquestionably to the too frequent use of the warm bath, to which the Greek women are so much habituated, that their very relaxed and debilitated state is to be ascribed; and this abuse, added to their natural indolence and their inaction, as certainly tends to shorten their lives. During courtship, the Greek lover serenades his mistress either in front of her house, or from the water. On these occasions he recites in a pathetic song, the warmth and sincerity of his passion, $tc. These nocturnal serenades, which are devoted to love, are so SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C 33 frequent at Buyukdere, as to break in on the repose of its inhabi- tants; and a person of lively fancy might be led to suppose that the deity of Love had made it his favourite residence, trom the beauty and amenity of this enchanting spot. I have already observed that Buyukdere is the summer residence of several of the ambassadors: it is also that of many persons of property and distinction, who reside at Ptra during the winter sea- son. Nearlv opposite to this village, on the bank of the Bospho- rus, is a fountain overhung with beautiful clumps of trees, much frequented on moonlight evenings by the Greeks, Armenians, and others. This, however, happens at a particular season only of the vear, when the clear transparency of the moon's light, illumina- ting the foliage which surrounds them, as well as the distant objects, invites the company to spend late hours in the enjoyment of so charming a scene. At Buyukdere, mutton, beef and bread are plentiful, and sold at a very reasonable price ; as are also poultry of every description. Eggs are in great plenty; but the cheese and butter are very indif- ferent. The wines, both red and white, made at Buyukdere, are very cheap, the oke (which weighs two pounds ten ounces, or som< :- what more than an English bottle) being sold at from eight to ten paras, that is, from four pence to five pence English money. The vegetables, which are pretty nearly of the same kinds as in Eng- land, namely, broad beans, French beans, peas, cabbages, cucum- bers, gourds, water melons, See. are in great abundance. The fruits, which are no less so, consist of peaches, apricots, pears, apples (which, however, are all very insipid), figs, cherries, pome- granates, red currants, wood strawberries, and grapes. Besides these, there is a profusion of walnuts, filberts, and hazle nuts. As there is no procuring malt liquor here, the principal beverage is wine and water. The milk is good and tolerably cheap. The oxen are small, and are for the greater part of a light grey colour; thev are employed, in common with the buffalo, an animal very unseemly to the view, in ploughing, for draught, &c. Here, as well as at Constantinople, Peru, and indeed in all this part of Tur- key, the dogs are very numerous. Thev do not appear to belong to any particular masters, are very ferocious, and occasionally very troublesome. A very agreeable dish called yourt, of which the natives are very fond, is made here, and brought in with the dessert. It is prepared ky allowing a certain portion of milk to become sour ; and throwing (5) 34 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, into new milk as much of this acidulated fluid as will curdle it in a slight degree. It is then eaten with sugar, is very palatable, and, mixed with strawberries becomes a good substitute for cream. The milk sold here is generally a mixture, being drawn from goats, sheep, cows, and buffaloes. To resume my narrative. On the 28th and 29th of June, I visited the barracks at Levant Chi/lick. The heat was less oppres- sive, the thermometer being at seventy-five. The harvest was now begun, and I saw, during my rides, the Turks busied in mowing their corn. They had a tolerable crop of bearded wheat (in all Turkey the wheat is bearded), which was of a good quality. In- stead of threshing it, it is their practice to harness horses and oxen to a .small car, the bottom of which is studded with portions of flint to cut and bruise the straw, the grain being disengaged by the trampling of the feet of the animals, who move in a circular direc- tion, as S in a mill. The 30th, on my return from the barracks, I dined and spent a very agreeable afternoon with Mr. Thornton, an English merchant at Buyukdere. His details relative to the oppression of the ryahs, under which common denomination are comprehended Greeks, Armenians, and indeed every description of Franks or Christians, subject to the Turks, were melancholy in the extreme. They are liable to an annual capitation, or poll tax, varying according to their degrees and circumstances, from a guinea and a half to seven shil- lings and sixpence English money, on the payment of which a cer- tificate is granted them ; and this tribute, exacted from them by right of conquest, and considered as the redemption of their heads, forfeited in perpetuity by their subjugated ancestors, leads to many villainous practices on the part of the Turks. It frequently occurs, for instance, that a Turk, on meeting a ryah, without scruple or ceremony, and without any regard to the engagements the latter may have, takes him aside to ascertain whether he is provided with a certificate, and, if this happens to be the case, to enquire into its authenticity, which he is certain to dispute, or to throw some diffi- culty or other in the way. Thus, whether the unfortunate ryah has or has not his certificate about him, he is obliged to make a pe- cuniary sacrifice, to rid himself of his oppressor's importunities. In other instances a ryah, who is in possession of a house, has his right to it disputed by a Turk, by whom false witnesses are suborned ; and as the oath of the ryah is not valid in a court of justice, when opposed to that of a Turk, he is obliged, if the cause is brought SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 35 to trial, to bribe his judge. He is thus, if he should come off vic- toriously, condemned to heavy expenses. To these, and many other similar vexations and oppressions, the wretched Franks, or Chris- tians, are incessantly exposed. When their population is considered, it may at first view appear extraordinary that they do not endeavour to throw off so odious and oppressive a yoke, more especially as the Greeks, by far the most numerous among them, in reality possess, as individuals, conside- rable energy and courage. The severity, however, of the examples which have been made in their unsuccessful struggles to regain their independence, appears irTa great measure to have damped their ar- dour, and broken their spirit. It must be recollected, that during: the late war between the Russians and Turks, the Greeks made several efforts which, through want of a proper concert with the former of these powers, were ineffectual. On a future occasion they may perhaps succeed better. When they rate their numbers as equal to those of the Turks, they certainly exaggerate. They are, however, very numerous, in the European provinces particu- larly, and possess many of the eminent qualities which have im- mortalized their ancestors. Among the rvahs in general great in- dustry prevails. On the morning of the 1st of July, I had a high gratification. Shortly after my arrival at Levant Ch'f.iek, the Grand Seignor and all his principal officers came thither to spend the day. They were mounted, and their fine horses being very elegantly caparisoned, nothing could exceed the grandeur of the spectacle. Their arrival was announced by the firing of guns ; and the whole of the troops were under arms; their music, consisting of drums, a kind of haut- boys, timbrels, and horns, was by no means disagreeable. Our men, who were called on, fired several rounds, and were compli- mented by presents of small gold coins of the size of a para, and in value a piastre and a half. Each of them received about two gui- neas. Between four and five in the afternoon, the grand Seignor and his retinue left Chi/lick, which is said to be the only place in the environs of Constantinople to which he goes on horseback. On the 2d, I paid my customary visit to the above place, where I had the satisfaction to find the sick in a fair way of recovery. On the lid, by the order of General Koehhr and at the particular request of the Capitan Pacha, a furnace was erected at Kait!ur,:it, for the heating of shot. A successful practice was carried on v. the red hot shot, to the great satisfaction of the Capitan Pacha, who 3« TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, expressed a wish to see the whole of the mission on the following; day. Kaithana is a valley very pleasantly situated at the extremity of the harbour, and distant from Buyukdere about ten miles. It has been made choice of by the Turks for their artillery experiments, to which its even surface is well adapted. The vestiges of a build- ing said to have been formerly a palace of the Grand Seignor are to be seen here; and near to them is a beautiful kiosque* for the Sul- tan's nse. A fine meandring stream runs through the valley. In tl c evening I returned to Buyukdere. On the 4th, we repaired, agreeably to our appointment, to the residence of the Capitan Pacha, with whom we made some stay, and were entertained with coffee, and other refreshments. Previ- ous 1 v to our taking leave, he made each of us a small present, a gown piece, for instance, or some such trifle. The General was resented with a handsome snuff-box, set round with brilliants, as v.as also Mrs. Koehler. 'After this visit of ceremony, we went on board the Charon, Cap- tain A' 1 '■Keller, where we weie not a little gratified by the sight of twd of our countrymen, who had been kept in slavery during two months in the vicinity of Constantinople, with a perfect ignorance of tiie -a;ed b th within;, de and without, in the Turkish style. It has several opening-, with shuters or latticed w >rk, answering the purpose of windows. The k'nsq.'.e is r ener lly raided some reet from the gr-und, and is furnished withinside, after the 1 urkvh fashion, w th sofas, r rais d >latforms, coverea with cloth, and pro- vidtd wih cushi ns. The floor is cov red wit h hanlsome mats fabricated in E yt>t, a consider ble manufactory or" which is c?rr cd on a Mcnovf in Lciver Egypt. In ( e (obstruction of thesv kiosques, the Turks usually make choice of an elevated grouid. It is also their practi e to place them near a river, or stream of water, situa- tions of which they are passionately fond. They there indulge themselves in smoking for several hours together. Small kiosques are requently erected on the poor? of Turk sb merchant vessels, par^ ticularly of those vhich navigate the Black Sea. Beneath the shade of these, the crews smoke their pjpes. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 37 boats filled with musicians, who played and sung during the whole of the dav. In the evening, bonfires were kindled, and pistols dis- charged in the air; it was on the whole a scene of great riot and confusion. On this occasion the Greek women were all of them very hand- somely attired, the meanest among them, even the fishermens' wives, being clad in elegant dresses of silk or velvet, with pelices lined with ermine of considerable value. This finery, of which they are extremely fond, is generally reserved for the holidays. Having been indisposed for several days, 1 did not repeat my visits to Levant Chi flick until the 8th. On the 10th, however, I was so well recovered as to accept the invitation which we received from Monsieur Tomara, the Russian ambassador, to be present at the celebration of the birth day of the Emperor of Russia. In the evening we repaired to his palace, where we found a very Jaro-e party assembled, all the foreign ministers, in their gala dresses, and decorated with their respective orders, being present, with their ladies and suites. The company, which consisted of individuals of almost everv nation, in the different costumes by which each is ap- propriately distinguished, did not break up until between one and two in the morning. The dances were continued until a late hour, the Greek women being passionately fond of that exerdse. In the course of the evening refreshments, consisting of sweetmeats, ice creams, cakes, &c. were served; and at midnight there was a cold collation, with wines and other liquors. The entertainment passed off very agreeably. On the 11th, 1 rode to Levant Chifiick; and on the 12th, to Constantinople. I embraced this opportunity of paying a visit to the bazars, that is, the places set aside for the sale of different ar- ticles of merchandize, each trade, or in other cases the dealers be- longing to the different nations subject to the Turkish domination, being arranged under a covered archway, somewhat similar to our Exeter exchange. Beneath these archways, or cloisters, which are of stone or wood, each tradesman, or dealer, has his shop in front, and behind it a warehouse for his goods. This arrangement is ex- tremely convenient both for the seller and the purchaser ; at the same time that the bazars, admitting a free circulation of the air, are very cool in summer, and consequently well adapted to the climate. The commodities sold in them are by no means contemptible. There is here a more regular market police (if the phrase may be admitted) than might be expected in this country. There are offi- jS TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, cers who take care to examine the weights and measures of those who sell goods; and these officers daily go their rounds through the different bazars: woe be unto him who sells with light weights! he is made an immediate example : he either suffers on the spot the bastinado (which the reader need scarcely be informed is a heavy cudgel applied violently to the soles of the feet), or is con- demned to the payment of a hue. The weights are of course de- stroyed. If any fraud is to be apprehended, it is more especially among those whom the Turks rank as unbelievers, and particularly among the Jews, who maintain here the character with which they are too ge- nerally charged ; they are prone to extortion, and in truth to deal with them requires much circumspection. From what I was able to observe in the bazars, I am inclined to think that the Turks axe. fair dealers. In speaking of the manner in which fraudulent trades- people are treated, it may not be improper to mention, that a pecu- liar punishment is inflicted in this country upon bakers who trans- gress the law, either by selling bread of light weight or of bad qua- lity; they have their ears nailed to their own door post for public view. In arbitrary governments the police ought to be good, for the punishments are always sanguinary and cruel. In the course of my perambulation, I went into a shop, where I cook a draught of sherbet cooled with ice. This liquor is made in various ways, with or without the acid: it is very cooling and re- freshing, and is sold at the very moderate price of a para* the cup. I was now confirmed in the observation I had made on my first arrival, that the streets of Constantinople are, without exception, narrow, ill paved, and dirty. Almost all the houses are built with windows projecting to the streets, which nearly touch those of their opposite neighbours ; this custom greatly obstructs the free circulation of air through the streets. The roofs of the houses arc miserably ill covered ; they are formed of a reddish tile, loosely put on without any fastening; occasionally loose stones are laid on here and there, but a cat running over the top of a house will fre- quently untile it ; consequently they are wretchedly constructed for rainy or tempestuous weather. The external appearance of the houses is at the same time heavy and dismal, all the ornaments be- ing reserved for the interior. 1 entered the outer court of the se- raglio, beyond which strangers are not allowed to pass, and had a * A para is nearly equal to a halfpenny ; forty paras make one piastre, and one pias- tre is worth one shilling and sixpence of our money. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 39 Sight of the mint, where the workmen were busily employed. It is situated within the enclosure. The silver coin has been debased to a very extraordinary degree, the silver it contains having been progressively reduced to about thirty parts in an hundred. This adulteration is said to have been introduced in aid of the public re- venue; and as the coin still retains its ancient nominal value, the consequence has been, that the counterfeit money of the forgers is become of greater value than that issued from the public treasury, notwithstanding the dealers in this illicit traffic turn their specula- tion to a very good account. From the mint I walked to the vicinity of the mosque of Santa Sophia, which is certainly a very massive building, but which, con- sidered in an architectural point of view, is, in my opinion, very inferior to our St. Paul's. With the exception of the dome, and of the four minarets which are detached, there is nothing very sin- gular or striking in the pile. I proceeded thence to the atmeydan, the place or field of horses, or, as it was anciently called, the hippodrome, a very extensive open space or circus, set aside for athletic exercises and public spectacles. Here the Turks exhibit a kind of military sport, called the djarid. The combatants are mounted, and armed with a stick or wand of a considerable length, which is darted with great force by the assailant, and as skilfully avoided by his antagonist. This ex- ercise is very much in vogue among the Turks of condition. In the middle of this space s-auds an antique column or obelisk, of a single block of granite, the sides of which are filled with various Egyptian figures and hieroglvphics. One of our party undertook to measure it, which he accomplished by a calculation drawn from a comparison between the shadow of a stick and that of the co- lumn, the height of which was found to be about sixty feet. The base is about seven feet in height, and is curiously sculptured in bas-relief with a great variety of human heads. At the extremity of the square there are the remains of a pillar, formed by the twist- ing of three brazen serpents. Formerly their heads made the capi- tal of the pillar. Mahonlet the second, when he took Constanti- nople, beat off the jaw of one of these heads. Passino- through a street, we came to another large and elevated antique column, called the Burnt Pillar, which, amidst the confla- grations that liave so frequently occurred, and have unfortunately so much ravaged the city of Constantinople, has stood its ground. It has, however, a very dingy hue, and a considerable number ot 40 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, fissures, occasioned by the different fires which have taken place in its vicinity, insomuch that it is now encircled by iron hoops to keep it together. After our excursion, we dined on board the New Adventure transport ; and in the afternoon went on board the Charon to take leave, she being on rhe eve of sailing from Constantinople for Gi- braltar. I did not reach Buyukdere until midnight. The weather had been extremely sultry during the day, the thermometer being at eighty-eight in the shade. On the 13th, I rode to Levant Chifiiek. On my return, I heard the Charon salute the Grand Seignor in passing the seraglio point. On the evening of the 1 4th 1 went to a kiosque in Buyukdtre, wh'ei e the Greeks were assembled to sing, dance, and partake of oth r amusements. I joined the promenade afterwards in the mea- dow, in which there was a very numerous assemblage of Greeks, Turks, and others. It being Sunday, the inhabitants of all the neighbouring villages were collected; and the groups which were formed, by the variety of their costumes, and the characteristic traits peculiar to each nation, had a very pleasing, and to me a very novel effect. While the Greeks displayed all the gaity and non- chalance which belong to their character, the Turks, with much gravity, had recourse to their constant companion the pipe, and in the intervals of smoking took coffee. On the 15th I rode to Levant Chifiiek, where I visited the Aga and several other Turku who were indisposed. On the preceding day we had made an appointment with Mr. Spurring, the English ship-builder at Constantinople, to visit the Sultan Selim, the ship which bore the flag of the Capitan Pacha. We were the more an- xious to do this, as the Turkish fleet was to sail in the course of a few days for the Dardanelles. We went on board accordingly, and found her to be a remarkably fine vessel: we were told, how- ever, that her timbers were not proportioned to her size, and that she would work very ill in tempestuous weather, and in a rough sea. The Sultan Selim mounts one hundred and twenty forty-two- pounders, besides other guns of a smaller caliber. The Capitan, Pacha's cabin was fitted up in a very elegant style. At the sides were suspended a considerable number of rich and beautiful sabres, pistols, and muskets, which, being set with a profusion of dia- monds, and curiously inlaid with gold, made a very glittering and showy appearance. The furniture and other other decorations of the cabin were in a corresponding style of magnificence. Sevc- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 41 ral English prints, representing cur celebrated naval victories, were hung up. We were entertained by the captain of the ship, a great favour- ite of the Capitan Pacha, with sweetmeats, liqueurs, coffee, &c. He accompanied us in our visit to the different parrs of the vessel, which was very clean, and kept in good order. She had on board fourteen hundred men, among whom that strict discipline by which the English men of war are distinguished did not appear to be kept up. The place set apart for the sick was very ill calculated for that purpose : and but little attention seemed to be paid to this part of the Turkish economy, than which nothing can be more momen- tous on shipboard. To the disregard with which the sick v. treated, may be added, as a proof of the barbarism of this people, the little encouragement bestowed on those who had the charge of them. The surgeon of the Sultan Selim assured me, that his an- nual salary amounted to twelve guineas only of our money, inso- much that his chief dependence, and that a very precarious one, was on presents. With so inadequate a remuneration for his ser- vices, whatever might have been his talents, little was to be ex- pected from his zeal. After this visit to the Sultan Sclini, I dined on board the New Adventure transport, and returned to Bttyukdere in the evening. On the 16th and 17th nothing particular occurred. 1 rode, as usual, to Levant Cliijiick. On my reaching that place, on the morning of the lSth, I was introduced to the Kai ma kan, and lladgi Ibrahim EJfendt, who had come thither for the purpose of a general inspection and exercise of the Turkish troops. Our men fired several rounds, and received a present of an bundled sheep and three hundred piastres. The parade being broken up, 1 returned to Biiyukdere. The 19th and L'Oth were without any interesting occurrence. On the 21st, in the afternoon, a party being made, we crossed the river from Buyukdere to /Jsia, and walked to the summit of the Gianfs Hill, a very high mountain, from which we had a de- lightful view of the different windings of the Bosphorus, and also of the Black Sea. On my arrival at Chiflick on the 22d, I was informed that a con- siderable number of sick and wounded Turkish soldiers, from /Icrc, in Syria, were hourly expected there. I agreed to see them on the owing day. ( 6 ) 42 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, On the 23d, after having visited the above mentioned sick and wounded Turkish soldiers, I returned, in the evening, to Buyuk- derc. On the 24th I went to Constantinople, where I had an interview with his Excellency Hadgi Jbrahim Effendi, the Turkish secre- tary ar war, on the subject of the Turkish sick and wounded in luevant Chi/lick, and returned to Itutfnkdere in the evening. On the 25th 1 reached Chijiick early in the morning, and had a long conversation with Hadgi Ibrahim Effendi, and the Aga, or Commandant, on the business above referred to. It was agreed that I should make all the necessary regulations for the sick and wound- ed lurks, that 1 should direct the fitting up of the hospital bed- steads, &c. and that 1 should be aided in my daily attendance by a Turkish surgeon. On the following day I met by appointment, at Leant Chijiick, the Grand Seignor's surgeon, the surgeon in chief to the army, and two other army surgeons, the latter of whom were appointed to assist me. I was informed by them that the Grand Seign or had given to each of the soldiers returned from Syria t>ventv-fuur piastres, and a schillink of silver to wear in his turban. 1 pass over my immediate operations at Levant Chijiick, as not being of general interest, with the brief observation, that many of the Turkish soldiers being badly wounded, I was very fully and seriously employed, and proceed to the 30th, when 1 was called up at midnight, and a note delivered to me from Major Fletcher, to inform me that the Grand Seip-nor, who was to beat Kaithanah the following morning, to' see the experiments which were to be made with red hot shot, the artillery practice, &c. was desirous that all the persons belonging to the British military mission should be present on the occasion. WRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 43 CHAPTER IV. V Visit to Levant Cliiflick, in compliance ivitb the orders of the Grand Seignor. Practice with red hot shot. Presents distributed to the officers and men. Or- ders to attend tbe Grand Seignor again. Inteia/ieav ivith him. Consulted by the Aga. Grand procession on the opening of tbe festival oj the Beyram Cour- bam. Tuikish entertainment. Remarks on the productions of the season in Turkey, on tbe diseases of tbe country, and tbe state of medical science there. Procession and festival of the dermises. Remarks on the climate and weather. Village and aqueducts of Belgrade. Character oj the Turkish 'villages. Visit to the Asiatic shore. Order for removal of the troops. Fire near Con- stantinople. Description of Santa Sophia. Greek marriage. Remarks on tbe Turkish fortresses. Embarkation of the troops. N compliance with the intimation we had received, we break- fasted at half past three in the morning, and proceeded without delay to Levant Chi flick, where we joined our detachment. About eight o'clock we arrived at Kaithanuh, and the Grand Seignor, his principal officers and suite, made their appearance shortly after. During the artillery practice, the experiments with red-hot shot, &c. the Grand Seignor was seated in the beautiful kiosque, or plea- sure-house, which 1 have already noticed. He paid a particular at- tention to every thing which passed; and when the whole was con- cluded, made each of us a trifling present. These presents were delivered to us by one of his suite, who tendered them to us re- spectively as we passed, one by one, according to our rank, in front of the Grand Seignor. Each of us having received the present de- stined for him, bowed, and was desired to retire. This ceremony having been concluded, the non-commissioned officers were brought up to receive presents for themselves and the privates. On the o 1st, on my arrival at Chi/lick, early in the morning, I met the Grand Seignor's surgeon, with whom I visited the wound- ed Turks. Several of them were already in a state of recovery. In our own infirmary I found four cases of intermittent fever. The men who laboured under this complaint, had been sent to Kaithanah some weeks before to assist in the erection of the furnace for the heating of shot ; and having been detained there for several days, weie exposed to marsh miasma, which is well known to be a most powerful agent in the production of intermittents. 44 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY - , On the 1st of August, General Koehler, Lieutenant-colonel Hollcuvij/, and Major Hope, returned to Buyukdere from the Dar- danelles. On my reaching Chi/lick to visit the sick and wounded, I re- ceived a message requesting me to wait, as the Grand Seignor was on his way thither, and might wish to make some enquiries of me relative to the state of the wounded Turks, and the arrangements made for them. He arrived about noon, attended by his principal ministers, his officers of state, and a very numerous retinue, all richly dressed, and superbly mounted. His arrival was announced by discharges of artillery, and other public demonstrations of joy. It being a grand field day, the Turkish soldiers went through their manoeuvres and exercises, after which each of them was marched to the front of the Aga's house, where the Grand Seignor was seated, and received a present of five piastres. I was now pointed out to the Sultan, and having paid my respects to him, received from him a trifling present, accompanied by a message to request of me to have the goodness to take all possible care of the wounded, for which service I should not fail to be properly remunerated. The Aga being indisposed, consulted me as to the nature of his ailments. I fecund him feverish, prescribed for him, and promised to see him, provided it should be necessary, at his residence at Bishictash, on the banks of the Bosphorus, near Pera. On the 2d, 1 went to Chi dick, where I visited the sick and wounded Turks, and afterwards rode to Bishictash to see the Aga, -who was still indisposed. On the 3d and 4th, I repeated my visits to the above places, and found the Aga, as well as the greater part of the wounded Turks, in a fair way of recovery. On the 5th, on my arrival at Chi/lick, I saw his excellency, with whom I had a conversation relative to the wounded Turk s. They were all of them doing very well, and in particular two, from the thigh of one of whom I had a few days before extracted a ball, and from the hip of the other a splinter of gun metal. It may strike my readers with surprise that the wounded men having been brought from so considerable a distance as Acre, these operations should still have been left to be performed. On tiie 13th, on my reaching Chiflick, I found there the surgeon to the Grand Seignor, by whom I was informed, that early in the morning of the following day the Grand Seignor would go in pro- cession from the seraglio to the mosque of Sultan Achmel, to cele- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 45 brate the opening of the Bei/ram Courbam, or month' of sacri- fice, the second paschal feast. He invited me to Constantinople to be present at this ceremony. The festival of the Bei/ram, which succeeds the Turkish rama- zan, or lent, is the season of pleasures and festivities of every de- scription. He must be poor indeed, who has not new clothes pro- vided for the occasion ; and among the better sort of people rich dresses are given and received as presents. The streets and public places are filled with groups, whose amusements and pastimes are varied according to the nation to which they belong. It may strictly be denominated a paschal feast, since, at its opening, sheep are sa- crificed by the Grand Seignor, and by all the distinguished and opulent Turks. The animals thus immolated, have their horns "gilt, and their wool nicely combed. It is so contrived as that these offerings should be made at the precise hour when similar sa- crifices take place at Mecca. At three o'clock in the morning of the 14th, I set out from Chi/l:ck, where I had spent the preceding night, and was, on my arrival at Peru, joined by Captains Lacy and Leake. We reached Constantinople at live o'clock, and proceeded to the house of a sur- geon, from whose shop we were to be gratified by a sight of the procession, as it passed. In. this house we breakfasted, and were entertained in the following manner. Pipes and coffee were first served, and were followed by a very agreeable and palatable prepa- ration of milk, called caimac, which was accompanied by hot su- gared cakes, and melons. Our repast was concluded by a second service of coffee; and during our stay, sherbet and pipes were brought to us at intervals. About eight o'clock the procession commenced; but the Grand Seignor did not make his appearance until half-past nine. The dresses of all those who composed the procession were splendid and costlv. The fine horses on which they were mounted, and more especially those of the eunuchs and principal officers of state, were most gorgeously caparisoned, the housings of many of them being of gold embroidery, studded with precious stones, by which a very brilliant effect was produced. In the turban of the Grand Seignor was a beautiful aigrette of very great value, the diamonds of which it was composed being of uncommon magnitude. Several of his horses, on which his shield and various trophies were carried, were led in the procession; and being very richly caparisoned, and orna- mented with a profusion of diamonds, rubies, and other precious 46 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, stones, gave a brilliancy and magnificence to the scene, whicli far exceeded any idea I could previously have formed of it. During the procession, a Turkish officer was constantly employ- ed in throwing on the heads of the populace handfuls of new paras. The contest which ensued, to pick them up, afforded to the Turkt ish spectators no little amusement. The Grand Seignor, who was very superbly mounted, was fol- lowed by his sword-bearer, carrying his sabre, the hilt of which was profusely studded with diamonds. Next came several officers of his seraglio richly dressed, bearing on cushions his turbans, ornamented with diamonds and other gems. The streets were lined on each side with janissaries, whose dress-caps appeared to me both ridicu- lous and unbecoming. As the Sultan passed along, he from time to time bowed with great affability to the people, all of whom pros- trated themselves on his approach. The kislah aga, or chief of the eunuchs, officiated at the mosque, and wore on his return a valuable pelice and a rich caftan, with which the Grand Seignor had presented him. Several other caftans, of qualities suited to the rank of those for whom they were desti- ned, were distributed by the Sultan on this occasion. The procession was conducted with great decorum, and through- out the whole of it the 1 est order observed. It would be impossible for me to attempt to describe all the striking appearances it exhi- bited, or to enter into a detail of the great variety and extreme singularity of the magnificent costumes which were displayed. To be. brief — it afforded to us strangers a Spectacle truly novel and in- teresting, and fully repaid us for the trouble we had feken to be comprehended among the number of the spectators. By eleven o'clock the streets were cleared. Selim III, the present Sulcan, is extremely popular with his subjects, and bv no means destitute of the talents and abilities whicli a sovereign ought to possess. He is descended from the house of Osman, by whom the fifth dynasty of the caliphs was established in the thirteenth century. Having received a more liberal education than has usually been bestowed in Turkey on those to whose lot the succession has fallen, Sultan Selim possesses a well cultivated mind, and has made himself acquainted with the policy of die more refined states of Europe. It is, therefore, not surprising, that he has introduced so many salutary innovations into his empire ; and, from a conviction of their manifest superiority, has become so stre- nuous a partizan of the tactics and military discipline of England SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 47 and France. In my subsequent details relative to the Grand Vi- sier and the Capitan Pacha, 1 shall have occasion to notice, in a particular manner, the improvements he has introduced in his army and marine. He is of a courteous and affable character; and his physiognomy is tine and full oi expression. His figure is well pro- portioned, and his aspect commanding. My companions and myself were invited, after the procession to dine with the Grand Seignor's surgeon, at whose house we were very well entertained in the Turkish style; and notwithstanding we were, in eating, compelled to adopt the mode practised by the Turks, that is, that we were unprovided with either knife, fork, or plate, we contrived to make a good dinner. The following is a concise description of these repasts. A cloth having been laid on the floor, a small table with the legs turned uppermost is placed on it, and on this again is laid a large circular waiter of tinned copper, round which the company seat themselves. Before each of the guests, bread in the form of a flat pancake, and two spoons are placed. The dishes are served up singly, one after the other ; and if filled with soup or liquid food, the spoons are. resorted to. If, on the other hand, they contain solids, the guests help themselves with the thumb and finger. However repugnant this custom must have been to the feelings and ideas of Englishmen, a keen appetite, and the savouriness of the dishes, in some measure reconciled us to it; and custom, which sways us so powerfully, enabled, us, in the sequel, entirely to get the better of our squeamishness. The meats are in general cut small for the convenience of those who are to partake of tfeem ; but on the present occasion whole ducks were served. These the donor of the feast pulled in pieces with his fin- gers, and distributed the portions to his guests. Pipes and coffee were brought in after dinner, and we at length took our leave. On the 15th, in the morning, I accompanied General Kbehler to Pcra, and from thence to Constantinople, where we had an in- terview of nearly two hours with his Excellency Hadgi Ibrahim Effcndi, with whom the general had some particular business to transact. In the course of this visit, a silver salver, containing conserve of roses, and other sweetmeats, was handed round, in ad- dition to the usual refreshments of pipes and coffee. When we were about to take leave, each of us was presented with two finely wrought muslin handkerchiefs. I ought not to omit here the con- cluding pare of the ceremony. After we had taken a draught of sherbet, which was presented to us, our hands were sprinkled with 48 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, rose water, and a silver vessel brought in, containing odoriferous gums in an inflamed state. The ascending vapours of these gums are by the Turks received on their beards; but as we were destitute of that ornament, we contented ourselves with smelling to them, and receiving them in our hands, which we rubbed together to re- tain the odour. We then bowed and retired. Much rain fell this day, accompanied with loud claps of thunder, and very vivid flashes of lightning. The storm continued through- out the evening. On my arrival at Chi /lick, on the morning of the 16th, I found that several of the wounded Turks who had been under my care, being now perfectly cured, were to set off the next morning for Alexandria, with a detachment of two hundred and fifty Turkish soldiers. On the 17th, the Turkish surgeons who had lent me their assis- tance there, having embarked the preceding evening with the de- tachment, I had no other than my own exertions to depend upon. In returning to Buyukdere, I observed that the country exhibited a new and very pleasing aspect since the fall of the late heavy showers, which had come very seasonably to enable the country people to plough and to till their lands. Grapes were now in sea- son, as were also melons : the latter were of two kinds, the musk melon, and the water melon, and were both cheap and in plenty. The grapes, which were extremely large, and fine, were sold at three and four paras the oke. Among the prevailing diseases in Turkey, the rickets are very common in children, and blindness in adults. The lame and deformed objects who constantly obtrude them- selves on the view, are in such numbers as to excite astonishment. Pulmonary complaints, as far as I had occasion to observe, are by no means prevalent in this country ; the catarrhal and asthmatic affections prevail most among elderly peopl . The Turks arc certainly not subject to the multitude of diseases which infest some other nations. Sores and wounds are managed and healed with more facility; much may be ascribed to their tem- perance. Fontanelles, or issues, are in common use; and some- what lessen the evils resulting from the indolent, and inactive iife which the Turks in general lead. Cutaneous affections, herpetic and tettery eruptions are common, particularly upon the head: dyspepsia, and other stomach complaints, prevail very ger.er; Their trreasv food, inactive life, their excesses in the use of sm SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 49 ing tobacco, and opium, may give rise to these disorders. Her- nias are common. Besides plague, they are occasionally subject to malignant and bilicus remittent and intermittent fevers in au- tumn. In Constantinople, Pera, and the suburbs, there are, it is said, nearly five thousand' persons who profess the different branches of the medical art. They are natives of almost every nation, but con- sist more particularly of 'Furls, Greeks, Armenians, and Italians, and are for the greater part u.teily ignorant of the principles either of medicine or of surgery. There are, however, some exceptions to this observation, and among them a Mr. Ruine, an Italian, whom I accidently met with a few days before the period of which I am now treating. He occasionally attends the Grand Seignor, when indisposed, as well as the harem, and many of the principal officers of state. For these services he has no salary, but is paid for his visits. His practice is extremely lucrative. The person who at present holds the appointment of physician to the Sultan, is a Turk, who, notwithstanding he is entirely unacquainted with me- dicine, receives an annual stipend of nearly five thousand pounds sterling. Almost every individual in Turkey has a nostrum for some disease or other. On the 18th, in the afternoon, in company with some of our of- ficers, we crossed over to the Asiatic side of the river to see the procession of the dervises, it being the birth-day of the founder of that sect. We were unfortunately too late to be present at this ce- remony, which, as we afterwards heard, was very numerously at- tended. We had, however, a very agreeable walk in the delightful valley in which the assembly was held. The janissary by whom we were accompanied for our protection, in his eagerness to get our boat ready, was pushed into the water, and otherwise maltreat- ed, by a boatman belonging to the Sultana Valuta, or Queen Mo- ther, who had come privately to witness the above ceremony. This insult being in a manner considered as offered to ourselves, a repre- sentation of the particulars of the affiay was made by General Kochler, to whom an apology was afterwards sent. On the 21st, the heat of the weather was very oppressive, the thermometer being, at eight o'clock in the morning, at 11 a in the sun. On my arrival at Chiflkk on the 22d, I found one of the men belonging to the British mission dangerously ill with a fever. (7 ) 50 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, On the 26th, it being the fete of the assumption of the blessed Virgin, which the Greeks celebrate with much pomp, in the even- ing- great numbers of them were assembled in the meadow, and in their holiday dresses. On the 27th, another of our men was seized dangerously ill with, a fever. The reader will perhaps find the frequent mention of the changes of the weather somewhat tedious, but nothing serves so well to give an idea of the climate and situation. In the course of this after- noon there was much thunder and lightning, and throughout the whole of the day very heavy and sudden showers of rain fell. On the 28th much rain had fallen during the night; and on the 29th the rains continued to fall with unabated violence. J dined at Bu/jukdere, in company with all the officers belong- ing to the mission, and with Count Ludolf, the Neapolitan envoy, who gave us a very polite reception, and entertained us with great hospitality. The evening was very cool and pleasant, and it was to be presumed that as the rains had now fallen in great abundance, they would be succeeded by fine weather. During the months of September and October the weather is in general very pleasant and agreeable in Turkey ; and this season the natives call the little or .second summer. On my arrival at C/ii/lick, on the morning of the 30th, I found that a military artificer, Green/iale/i, had expired in the course of the preceding afternoon. On the 1st of September the officers of the mission dined with General A'oe/t/er, and met there Count Ludolf, the Neapolitan en- voy; and in the evening went to the palace of the Russian minis- ter, Monsieur Tomara, where there was a ball. It being Sunday, some repugnance was felt at being present at these entertainments ; it was, however, prudent to conform to the established usages. On the 4th 1 visited Chijliek, and found that Kannaird, a mili- tary artificer, had departed this life in the course of the preceding afternoon. On my reaching Chijliek on the 5th. I was called to the child of a private belonging to the royal artillery, whose skull had been fractured by a fall from a window. It survived this accident a few hours only. A party having been formed on the 7th, we made an excursion to the village of Belgrade, distant from Constantinople twelve or fourteen miles, and to the aqueducts in its vicinity. Among these SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 5 1 we saw that which was erected in the reign of .Justinian, and un- der his immediate direction. We visited the interior of this aque- duct, a large magnificent structure, in a very fine style of architec- ture, and passed through the different galleries or passages. Our promenade ended there; and we returned to the woods near the villap-e of Belgrade, where, our provisions having been spread on the green sod, which served us for a table, we dined beneath the cool and refreshing shade of a cluster of lofty trees. The country in the vicinity of Belgrade abounds in groves and fine woodland scenery. To us, who had remained so long in the environs of Constantinople, it presented a scene of equal novelty and interest. It was our first visit to this enchanting spot; and brought to our recollection all the encomiums which Lady Mary Wort ley Montague has bestowed on it in her Letters. If it is not precisely the paradise she has described, it is unquestionably one of the most beautiful spots in that part of the world. We passed through two small villages, which were of the same descrip with those I had hitherto seen in Turkey ; that is, the houses and the inhabitants were alike in a wretched state. To render the face of the country more agreeable and picturesque, a few scattered ham- lets were wanting: the aqueducts, however, by intersecting the vil- lages, gave to the scenery a considerable degree of interest. On the Sth, the officers of the mission dined with the Russian ambassador, where we were as usual sumptuously entertained. On the 12th I made an engagement with 'the officers belonging to a Russian man of war lying in the harbour, to accompany them to the Asiatic shore on the following morning. On the 13th, at ten in the morning, we crossed over to Asia. The day was delightful ; and we made a very agreeable excursion into the country. On our return, carpets were spread in the shad •, and a cold collation served. The Russian sailors entertained us with several songs, which the surgeon accompanied on a kind of harp. Nothing deserving of notice occurred until the 20th, when the Magnet, an English merchantman, which had been long expect- ed, anchored off the Seraglio Point. Tins day General Koehler shifted his residence from Buuukdere to Galata. On mv reaching Chi/lick, on the 22d, I found Snath, an artificer, labouring under an attack of malignant fever. The succeeding days were marked by no particular occurrence until the 28th, when on my visit to Chijlick barracks," I found- $2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Smith, the artificer^ the s-ymptpros of whose fever hud daily assu- med a stronger degree of malignity, had died in the course of the jnc eding evening. His bqdy \\uo already in a high state of pu re- faction ; anil the same tever haying-broken out among the inhabitants of Chi/iicJc, 1 wrote to General KoehUr^ to advise that our people should be immediately removed. From the General I learned in re. urn, that the detachment was to be embarked on board the trans- port then lying off Tcphunu, and to proceed in her to the J'anla- nellts, as soon as the steps preparatory to the expedition should have been taken. On my return from Chi flick., on the 29 th, I rode towards an an- cient tower, which Europeans have denominated the tower of Ovid, and which is conjectured to have been originally a signal tower, from which the inhabitants were warned of the approach of the ve^els of the Cossacks, whose piracies on the coasts of the Euxine sea, near which this tower stands, were formerly so much dreaded. On the 1st of October, in the evening, a large fire broke out in a village near Constantinople, situated above the arsenal. It was a truly grand and awful spectacle; but the whole of the damage was conhned to the destruction of some he uses. In the morning after this event, 1 went to Constantinople, where I visited the mosque of Santa Sophia, and the mad-house, situated at the extremity of the Hippodrome, or blimey dan. Santa Sophia, as has been already mentioned, was formerly a Christian church, and built by the Emperor Justin. It was con- verted by the Turks into a mosque, stii! however retaining its ori- ginal name. This building, which always attracts the attention of travellers, is a hundred and fourteen paces iri length, and eightv in breadth: the dome, which covers the centre of the building, is in the form of a half globe, rather depressed, and .is altogether sin- gular in its style of architecture. Within side he mosque there is a porch that ranges round its sides, which supports another gallery thirty paces broad, both vault- ed over, and supported by a great number of beautiful pillars, many of which are of verd antique. These columns uphold the building. You arrive at the upper gallery by means of an easy, winding, but paved ascent (or stair case), up which horses can easily ascend. At one end of this gallery there is an enclosed place, with a gilt grating or lattice work, for the Sultan's use, when he visits this mosque. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 53 On the outside there are four tall minarets, or steeples, and foun- tains where the Turks peiform their ablutions alvvavs previous to prayer. Manv small lamps, ostrich eggs, &c. are suspended as or- naments in the centre of the mosque, the part which the pious principally occupy when at prayer. 'J he floor is covered with mats. To enter this, as well as all other mosques, it is necessary to be provi led with clean slippers to pull on over the boots or shoes of Christians, as the Turks will not allow them to enter without ob- serving this ceremony. To procure admittance, however, within the mosques, a Frank must be furnished with a firman, or written authority from the Turkish government; but the Mussulman after all makes him pay handsomely for the gratification of his curiosity. After having amused myself by walking through the different bazars, I returned to Buyukdtre in the evening. On the 3d, in the morning, 1 called on Mr. Spencer Smith, the British minister, who had just received the melancholy tidings of the death of Major Feud, of the royal artillery. On the 13th of the last month, being on board Le Tigre, commanded by Sir Syd- ney Smith, he fell a victim to an attack of malignant fever, in the prime of life. He was an active and zealous officer. On the 4th, in taking my customary ride to Chifiiek, I observed that the vintage was begun. The inhabitants were all busied in their vineyards, in gathering the grapes, which, having been pisixd from the stalks, were thrown into barrels, and these laid across the backs of horses to be conveved home. J Our final orders having been received on the 5 h, to proceed to Galata on the following Monday, the 9th, we were busily employ- ed during the whole of the day in the necessary preparations for our removal. On the 6th, in the evening, I was present at another festivity, that of the marriage of the daughter of a Mr. llidey, a Greek merchant. The young girls of that nation, who were assembled to celebrate the nuptials, were decked in their gaudiest apparel, and the evening was spent in dancing and other amusements. On the morning of the 7th, the officers belonging to the British mission left Buyukdere. On the Sth, in the morning, 1 proceeded up the Bosphorus in a boat as far as its junction with the Fu.vinc sea, and landed at the most distant village on the European side, where the inhabitants were busily engaged in salting a kind of mackerel of a very large 54 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ■t size. Near to this village, upon the shore, there is a very capaci- ous lanthorn erected, by the light of which by night vessels are di- rected into the Bosphorus from the Black sea ; so named, I ima- gine, from the black clouds and stormy weather which frequently come over this sea. There is a rock standing in the water, and contiguous to this village, upon which formerly (it is said) a pillar of marble stood, vulgarly called the pfllar of Pompey. For some time past the weather had been cold and rainy, the thermometer having been so low as 55. On the 10th, a model of the upper castle at Sultania, or Chenne- cally, on the Asiatic side of the Dardanelles, made under the di- rection of Lieutenant-colonel Ilolloway, with the improvements suggested by him, was presented to his Excellency Haclgi Ibrahim Effendi, secretary at war, for the Grand Seignor. I should have observed, that those Mahometans who perform the pilgrimage to Mecca, are ever after called hadgi's, or pilgrims, and much respect is paid them by the Turks. It may not be improper in this place to say a few words relative to the Turkish fortifications in general. For the greater part, they consist of old turreted castles, situated on eminences, and surround- ed by high walls. Little or no attention is paid to the keeping of them in repair; and, as it is very much to be doubted whether they would be of any efficacy in case of a foreign attack and invasion, they ought, rigorously speaking, to be considered merely as so ma- ny citadels, to awe the inhabitants, and to serve, in cases of intes- tine commotion, as a shelter for the weaker party. The Pachas of the different provinces, at whose charge these works ought to be supported and kept in repair, being quite uncer- tain how long thev may be maintained in the enjoyment of their respective governments, make it their sole study to enrich themselves as promptly as they can. Indeed, the avarice and indolence by which the Turks in general are so strongly characterized, and which effectually exclude all improvement, prevent them from bestowing either pains or expense on their fortifications. To these considera- tions may be added the fatalism they profess. They declare them- selves sensible of the approaching decay of their empire; but have at the same time received an assurance from the Koran, that it is to rise again in greater splendor than ever. The supine and torpid state in which they are thus immersed, can only be equalled by the pati- ence and resignation which, under all misfortunes, they derive from SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 55 the same source. In each adverse trial they express themselves by- saying — " it is the will of Heaven." On the subject of fortifications, they have an ancient proverb which says, that " it belongs to infidels to build, and to Mussul- " men to cake them." This, like all other proverbial sayings, had once a ground for its' support, but by no means applies to the pre- sent condition of the Turkish empire, and to its relative situation with the neighbouring Christian powers. On the 12th, in the morning, our artificers embarked on board, the transport •, and on that day a Russian fleet bound to Naples, with troops on board, destined to form the body guard of his Nea- politan majesty, anchored in the harbour. On board this fleet were two Englishmen, one a surgeon, the other a lieutenant, who had been some years in the service of Russia. On the 1 3th, on my return from Chi/lick and Galata, and after having paid a visit to the imperial palace, I went on board the trans- port to see the convalescents. Orders were given for the detachment of artillery to quit Chijiick on the following day, and to march to Buyukdere. In the evening the officers of the mission were pre- sent at a ball and supper given at the Russian palace, in compliment to the general of that nation, who commanded the troops destined for Naples. On the 15th the detachment arrived at Buyukdere from Chif- lick, and on the 16th I rode to Belgrade, and returned to Buyuk- dere : for several days past much rain had fallen. I brought home with me some of the air of Belgrade to examine. The situation of that place is delightfully rural, but subject to intermittent com- plaints, occasioned by the marsh miasma, exhaled from a valley in its vicinity. The house of the British minister stands on a higher ground than the other buildings, and is consequently the most agreeable, as well as the most salubrious residence in the village. On the 17th, orders were received at Buyukdere to embark the whole of the detachment on the following Sunday for the Darda- nelles. On the J. 9th, in the evening, we had a storm of thunder and lightning, attended by occasional showers. On the 21st, in the morning, I left Buyukdere with the de- tachment, which was, without loss of time, embarked on board the transport. The wind being foul, so as to detain the transport in the har- bour, I had sufficient leisure, during the two succeeding days, to visit all my friends and connections, and to take leave. $6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, CHAPTER V. Departure from Constantinople. Voyage to Chennecally. Scstos and Abydos. Toiver of Leander. A>ri-val at Chennecally. Join the Capita?! Pacha" s fleet. Visit of the officers on board the Sultan Seliin. Character oj the Capi- tan Pacha. Present state of the Turkish marine. Dishonesty of a Turkish marine. Visit to the ancient Sip. sean. Recovery of some curious remains of antiquity. Description of the plain of 'Troy, and the tombs of Ach.lles, Pa- troclus, and Ajax. Mount Ida. Description of Chennecally. Castles of ^Dardanelles. Atndos. Decapitation of a Turkish admiral. Dardania. Orders received to return to Constantinople. Arrival there. ON the 23d, the wind having become fair, we sailed from the harbour of Constantinople. In passing the seraglio point, we fired a royal salute, and came to anchor in the evening off Selyvrie, a little beyond Buy ukcheckmeg i ', the pilot being appre- hensive that we should otherwise reach the narrows before day-iight, and that the safety of the vessel would thus be endangered. Early the next morning we weighed anchor, and steered towards our des- tination. During the three following days we were becalmed be- tween the islands of Marmora and Gallipoli. In this interval a gunner belonging to the detachment fell a victim to a dysenteric complaint. On the 28th we anchored in the Dardanelles, opposite Mito, in the bay of Nagaia. We were close in with the Asiatic shore, within half a mile of the ancient city of Akydos, and about two miles distant from the castles of Chennecally, to which we were bound. The station we had taken up was truly classical, being ve- ry near the spot where Leander, if the poets may be credited, swam across the Hellespont to Sestos, to procure an interview with his beloved Hero. On the ancient medals of his native city Abydos, he is seen in the act of swimming, and endeavouring to reach the tower, on which, in commemoration of this event, Hero after- wards placed a torch. The vestiges of what is said to have been the tower, which in later times was employed as a light-house, are to be seen standing on a rock at the sea side. About two hours after we had dropped our anchor, the ship drove, and we were in danger of being carried over to the opposite SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. $7 shore. To prevent this we were under the necessity of cutting our cable, and of making sail. We anchored soon after withinside the Capitan Pacha's fleet, and about two miles below the town of Chennecally . On our corning to anchor, we saluted the Capitan Pacha with seventeen guns, Our salute having been returned, he came along- side the transport in a very beautiful barge, manned by a conside- rable number of rowers, and invited General Koehler on board his ship. The invitation was accepted; and in the interview which took place it was settled, that on the following day all the officers belonging to the mission should be presented to the Capitaa Pacha. In the morning of the 29th, the General and officers went on board the flag-ship, the Sultan Selim, of one hundred and thirty guns. They were there presented to the Capitan Pacha, by whom ihey were received with the utmost attention and politeness; they were then entertained with pipes, coffee, and a variety of refresh- ments, and were treated, in addition to the usual ceremony, with tea a V Anglaise, out of an elegant and superb tea equipage. The Capitan Pacha did them the honour to accompany them to every part of his ship, which they inspected minutely, and ordered his crew to go through the exercise of the middle deck guns. This was done by the word of command, and the manoeuvres executed with the greatest precision and regularity. On his being compli- mented on the excellent order and good discipline observed on board his ship, he handsomely declared, that all the merit was due to Captain Samuel Hood, of the Saturn, who commanded the station off Alexandria, previously to the arrival of Sir Sydney Smith. On many subsequent occasions he has expressed his obligations to that very meritorious and intelligent officer, for the essential im- provements which, through him, he has been enabled to introduce into his fleet. Kucliuk Hussein, the present Capitan Pacha, or High Admiral, was originally a Georgian slave, and being a great favourite of the Sultan, with whom he spent his childish years, was elevated to his present office and dignity without having served in any subordinate siation in the Turkish marine, in the amelioration of which, how- ever, he has displayed great zeal and ability. It may be recollected, that at the end of the contest between the Russians and Turks, the marine of the latter was in a very wretched condition. Kuchuk Hussein has since exerted himself, and not- ( 3 ) £8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, wholly without effect, to place it en a more respectable footing. Being divested of the prejudices by which the Turks in general are so powerfully actuated, he has, in concert with the Grand Seignor, introduced every innovation which could lead to improvement, and profited by every information he could collect relative to the more advanced state of naval science in the great maritime states of Eu- rope. It is somewhat singular that, notwithstanding the Grand Seignor possesses more ports and havens than anv other European power, and is master of the Black: Sea, the coasts of which supply him with materials for the construction of his ships of war, and although his capital is established on one of the finest harbours in the universe, still his navy has for a series of years made but a very insignificant figure in the history of maritime nations. There was a time, in- deed, when it vied with the navies of Spain, of Ttnice, and of se- veral other powers, then deemed of considerable importance by sea; . but it has not kept pace with the progressive improvements other countries have made. Under the present Capitan Pacha it is now assummg a much more promising aspect. In addition to the more advantageous system of naval tactics he is gradually introducing, several experienced ship-builders from England, France, and Swe- den, have been invited to the Turkish dock-yards, where they have rece;;:ly built several fine ships of the line, together with frigates and smaller vessels. Thus, was there not a probability that other causes may operate to the decline of the empire, there would be a prospect that the Ottoman navy might be raised to that respectability to which it seems naturally entitled; for it should be recollected that the Grand Seicmor is the sovereign of those nations, by whom the first rudiments of maritime knowledge were taught, namely, the Phenicians, the Rhodians, the Greeks inhabiting the coasts of the Archipelago, the Cretans, &c. nations from their local si- tuation destined, it should seem, to the science and practice of na- vigation. Levant/' is the term which the Turks apply to the seamen of their own nation, as well as to all the foreigners employed in their ma- rine. It would appear that it is a corruption of the Italian lan- guage, being applied by the Italians themselves to the inhabitants of the coasts of Greece, and of the Archipelago, whence the greater part of these seamen are procured. They are in general a very unprincipled and turbulent set of men, as was more particularly SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &X. 59 manifested in Constant in pie, and in the suburbs of Peva ana Ga- lata, a few days before the sailing of the Capitan Pacha's fleet. To return to my narrative. On the 3 1st the officers and detach- ments landed for the purpose of putting into execution the different plans which had been laid before the Grand Seignor, and approved by him ; and he had given the necessary authority to have- them carried into the fullest effect. On the 2d of November, the Phceton frigate, Captain Morris, arrived in the Dardanelles, having on board his Excellency the Karl of Elgin, his Britannic Majesty's ambassador to the Sublime Porte, with his lady and suite. The General and all the officers of the mission immediately went on board to pay their respects to his Lordship, and compliment him on his arrival. The Phaion saluted the Capitan Pacha with nineteen guns, which were returned by an equal number. His Excellency, together with Lady Elgin, Cap- tain Morris, and the principal persons of the suite, paid a visit to the Capitan Pacha on board the Sultan Selim. They were saluted on their way by both the ships ; and accepted of the Capitan Pacha's invitation to partake of a Turkish supper. On the morning of the 3d, the Phceton frigate, with the above- mentioned persons on board, sailed for Constantinople. On the 5th, a serjeant belonging to the military artificers, in pre- paring money for the payment of the detachment, in the presence of a well dressed galangis, or Turkish marine, quitted the room for a moment, and left the money lying on the table. On his re- turn, the galangis had disappeared with an hundred and twenty, piastres.* This circumstance having been made known, and the person of the delinquent described to the Capitan Pacha, the galan- gis, from a conviction that the inquiry which the Pacha had insti- tuted would inevitably lead to his discovery, came on the second evening after to the General's house, and confessed the robbery. The General, with great humanity, yielded to his solicitation, to endeavour, by a timely interference, to save his life, and applied to the Pacha in his favour. Several days elapsed before this affair was brought to the conclusion which the General wished. During that interval, from his anxiety to prevent the unfortunate culprit from being strangled, he had expressed some doubts relative to the iden- tity of his person. In reply to this, the Pacha very handsomely, and without hesitation, declared his full conviction that the galan- * A piastre Is equal to about one shilling and sixpence E igl, CO TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, gis in question had taken the money, as he was certain that an Eng- lishman would not tell an untruth. On the 7th, at eight in the morning, I accompanied the General and ofTiccrs to Koum Kali, which we reached between ten and eleven o'clock. We there paid our respects to the Bey, Adam Oglu, governor of the four fortresses, and of the district of the Dardanelles. He gave us a very civil reception, and supplied us with horses to proceed to the village of Gicrwr-keuy , or Janizari Cape, built on the site of the ancient Sigcean, and standing on an eminence which commands the plain of Troy. The purport of our journey thither was to procure a very curious bas-relief, and the celebrated Sigaan inscription, for Lord Elgin, who had seen them, and was desirous to transmit them to England. To accomplish this, a firman was procured from the Capitan Pacha, who also fur- nished a chaous to be the bearer of it. We were not long in com- ing at these valuable antiquities, winch we found at the entrance of a small Greek chapel. The Greeks, by whom the village was ex- clusivelv inhabited, were extremely averse to their being taken away. Their reluctance, we were told, arose from a superstitious opinion they entertained, that by touching these stones agues were cured. We were, however, more fortunate on this occasion than the Count de Choiseul Gou filer was some years before, in his at- tempt to remove the marble containing the Sigtean inscription. He failed, notwithstanding the firmans of Hassan Pacha, who had aided him with all his influence over the Greeks: but our chaous, with the Capitan Pacha's firman, effected his purpose. The block of marble on which the Sigaan inscription, so frequently mention- ed by antiquarians, is cut, constituted originally the pillar of an hermetic column. The words of the inscription itself are alter- nately written backwards and forwards, a peculiarity which denotes it to be of the highest antiquity. On the bas-relief we found five figures very finely sculptured, but the heads of which, with one exception only, were unfortunately broken off. As this curious remnant of antiquity has, as well as the Sigtean inscription, been since conveyed to England, any further details relative to it would be superfluous. We next visited the tumuli, or barrows, which tradition has described as the tombs of Achilles and Patroclus. At some dis- tance from them we saw another barrow, which is, sty led the tomb of Ajar. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 6\ The plain of Troy, over which we rode, is of very considerable extent, being about twelve miles in length, and from five to six in breadth. It is fertile, and in a good state of cultivation. A great part of the land is laid out in pasturage, on which numerous herds of cattle browze. The rivers Scamander and Siniais run meandering through the plain; and near to their confluence siands the village of L'ourna I>as/ti, on the site, as is supposed, of the ancient Ilium. At an inconsiderable distance from this village are to be seen the vestiges of an ancient temple dedicated to Apollo. Several other small villages are interspersed. The Scamander being at present but scantily supplied with water, a part of its bed affords herbage for cattle. From Giawr-keuy we had a fine and distinct view of Mount Ida, and also of the tomb from whence Polites, the son of Priam, reconnoitred the forces of the Greeks. We were under the ne- cessity of deferring till a more convenient opportunity our projected excursion to Alexandria Troas, or, as it is now styled by the Turks, Esca Slamboul. We slept in a house which the Bey had prepared for us.* On the 3th we paid an earlv visit to Adam Oglou, who accom-r panied us on our return to Chennecally, in compliance with an imperious message he had received from the Capitan Pacha to repair thither. On this occasion he was extremely dejected, and appeared to labour under strong apprehensions that his visit to the Capitan Pacha would be attended by very serious consequences. Indeed he did not scruple to confess as much to General Koehler, whom he solicited to interfere in his behalf. In this the General was suc- cessful, but not before the Bey had been exceedingly alarmed at the appearances which manifested themselves against him. He had pre- viously declared to several of our gentlemen, that he had constantly at his command ten thousand fighting men, and that in the space of three days he could assemble an army of forty thousand. With so considerable a force in his hands, such is the system pursued in Turkey, and such the consequences to be apprehended from a me- nacing message received from a minister or other person high in authority, that Adam Oglou found himself placed in a very preca- rious and hazardous situation. * For a more minute description of thin highly celebrated spot, I refer the reader to the Remarks andOkervations on the Plain of Tray, published in iSco, by Captain Frank/in, in the service of the East India Company; wherein the author expre&SiS him- self thoroughly satisfied with the correctness of the poet Homer in his beautiful descrip- ti ;n of Troy. 62 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, In the afternoon I made an excursion of several miles into the interior of the country. Chennecally is situated on the Asiatic side of the Dardanelles, in a flat territory, which extends for seve- ral miles, and is terminated by a lofty chain of mountains reaching from Mount Ida. On the east and south-west sides the town is surrounded by marsh v grounds, which, being contiguous to it, must unquestionably subject the inhabitants to intermittents. On the eastern side there is a very fine grove of sycamore trees. About eighteen months before the date of this part of the narrative, the plague extended itself to Chennecally, and carried off daily from thirty to forty of the inhabitants. It is said that the Dardanelles are never infested by that disease, unless when it rages with great and uncommon violence at Constantinople. A still more singular fact has also been stated, namely, that in the town of Mito, on the European side, and opposite to Abydos, the inhabitants are not susceptible of the plague; and that the infected persons, who have occasionally been brought thither by stealth, have all recovered. The water in Chennecally being brackish, and of a taste disagree- able to the palate, the inhabitants are under the necessity of obtain- ing their supplies from the neighbouring fountains. The surrounding plain is in a tolerable state of culture, and abounds in vineyards, in addition to which there is some produce of cotton, hemp, and diffe- rent kinds of grain. Camels and buffaloes are employed for agricul- tural and other purposes. The town is filthy in the extreme, the streets very narrow;, and the houses, which indeed resemble almost all those that are to be met with in the Turkish towns and villages, wretchedly bad. Game is in great plenty at Chennecally, as are also turkeys, geese, ducks, and fowls. The mutton is of a good quality; and there is a constant supply of excellent vegetables, as well as of fruits of every kind, when in season. We had not as yet been able to ascertain whether there was any public market for fish. The wine made at Chenftecalh/ is pleasant and cheap. At this place there is a manufactory of earthen ware, and ano- ther for the preparation of the skins which are converted into the red, yellow, and black Turkey leather, Held in such universal esti- mation. Near this place the Capitan Pacha brings his fleet to an- chor once a year, to collect, for the Turkish . government, the annual tribute from the adjacent districts. He was expected to sail for Constantinople in the course of a few days. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 6j The Dardanelles are principally defended by four castles, on which are mounted a considerable number of guns many of thern of an uncommonly large calibre, having, ill some instances, a dia- meter of not less than thirty inches. In one of these guns a Turk was seen by our party, seated, and in the act of eating his meal. One of the castles is situated at Chennccally , and another on the opposite side of the straits at Kelleibahar. The other two are at the entrance of the Dardanelles, one at Setteibahar, on the Eu- ropean side, and the other at Koum Kali, en the Asiatic side. At the time when Lieutenant-colonel Holloxcay and Major Hope were engaged in the survey of the castles and coast, a practice was made by the Turksixova. the great guns at Chemxecally for the pur- pose of convincing the English officers that their large marble and granite balls, discharged a ricochet,* would reach quite across the Dardanelles. They indeed furnished a melancholy proof of this ; a family of three individuals, sitting in a field on the opposite side, having been killed by one of the shots. On the 9th, in the morning, the officers and men belonging to the British military mission assembled on the esplanade; to receive the Capitan Pacha, who came thither in state to inspecr the nature and situation of the proposed additional works, which had been traced out for that purpose. He was saluted by the men of war and castles, his Kia Bey, with a numerous retinue, attending on the beach. The inspection having been gone through, and the necessary ex- planations made to him, the Pacha paid many compliments to the General and officers, and expressed his full and entire approbation of all that was proposed to be done. The works were accordingly commenced without loss of time. On the 11th, much rain, accompanied with thunder and light- ning having fallen the preceding evening, and the storm having con- tinued during the whole of the night, we experienced a very great and sudden change of weather. The wind had shifted to the north- east; and. as we were without fires, we found the cold, wdiich had come upon us thus unexpectedly, very unpleasant. In riding out this day, I examined the spot on which the ancient Abrjdos is said * In firing a ricochet, the piece is no more than half charged, insomuch that it car- ries the ball to a certain distance only. In its fall, the latter skips, rolls, and makes rebounds (ricochets), as is the case with pebbles thrown in a horizontal direction on the surface of the water, in skisnrning which they produce what by boys are called ducks and drakes. This practice is employed to sweep and clear a covered way, a rampart, &c. and its invention is ascribed to tht celebrated Vauban. TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, to have been situated, and found upon it scattered fragments of old bricks, stones, &c. which furnish an evident proof that it was the site of some ancient town. Near to this spot a late Capitan Pacha erected a kiosque ornamented by a fine fountain, and also a mosque. The kiosque being situated at the head of a bay, which, during the winter months, serves for the anchorage of the Turkish ships of war, is a favourite residence of the present Capitan Pacha. On the morning of the 12th 1 rode to a Turkish village, distant from Chennccally about three miles. It was of the same description with the villages I have already noticed. The late heavy falls of rain had set the country people to work : while some of them were busied in pruning their vines, others were employed in the fields in ploughing and in sowing their barley. On the 15 th the Capitan Pacha, who had moved his fleet to the bay of Nagara, near Abydos, promoted one of his captains to the rank of rear-admiral. We were given to understand that this pro- motion took place in consequence of a Turkish admiral having been decapitated for neglect of duty, in suffering Bonaparte to make his escape by sea from Egypt. The newly created admiral was saluted on the occasion by the ships of the Turkish squadron. On the 18th I received a visit from Dr. Rhazi, physician to the Capitan Pacha, with whom I had made an acquaintance the prece- ding- evening at the house of the Russian consul. On the following day, after having accompanied him to the General's house, we vi- sited together two of the Turkish captains who were indisposed. A confirmation of the news of Bonaparte'' s escape from Egypt reached Chennecally this day. On the 24th I walked to the site of the ancient Abydos, which I had more leisure to inspect than on my first visit. In addition to the abundance of fragments of bricks, and heaps of stones and rubbish, which were scattered over the entire surface of the ground, I no- ticed a small portion of a wall of a tower of considerable thickness, the only vestige of a ruin still standing. Foi" several preceding days the weather had been cold, rainy, and tempestuous, the thermometer ranging from 42 to 45 degrees. It cleared up on the 25th, when I had a pleasant morning's ride to the spot where the ancient Dardania stood. On the ground I found fragments of bricks profusely scattered. These, together with the stones and rubbish with which they were blended, were irrefraga- ble proofs of the remote existence of buildings on the spot, near to which I observed the vestiges of an ancient fort. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 65 On the 26th I made an excursion to the mountains, whence I had the satisfaction of surveying one of the most beautiful pros- pects imagination can paint. In my rear was Mount Ida ; and in front the Dardanelles, together with Imbros, Samothrace, and the Suronic Gulf. Tenedos, Lemnos, and the JEgean Sea, were to the left; and to the right Gallipoli, Marmora, and other dis- tant objects. The sun shining very bright, the tops of Mount Ida, and of the Samothracian hills, glittered with accumulated masses of snow. The Capitan Pacha having this day given an order that several unserviceable guns should be broken in pieces, the Topgis Bashi, or commandant of Turkish artillery, took the following method to carrv it into execution. A large pile of wood having been laid on the guns, was set fire to in the evening, and kept burning until early the next morning, when an account was brought that a Turk- ish gunner had been killed, and the Capitan Pacha's chief gunner wounded, bv the bursting of one of the guns in the fire. In ac- counting for this accident, various opinions were entertained. It was ascribed by some to the circumstance of a quantity of cold water having been thrown on the heated metal by the Turks em- ployed in the operation ; but it appeared to us more probable, that, having neglected to withdraw the charge, an explosion took place on the gun being heated. Several of the fragments were thrown to a considerable distance. The poor Topgis Bashi was so much alarmed by the disastrous event which had occurred, that he immediately betook himself to flight, as did also his brother, from an apprehension of the consequences of the Capitan Pacha's displeasure. On the 30th the Phteton frigate arrived from Constantinople with letters which occasioned the removal of the mission to that place, as a step preparatory to its being employed on some important service. Orders were in consequence issued by the General that the officers and detachment should hold themselves in readiness to embark the following morning on board the transport. The wind being north- erly, however, there was a prospect or our being detained at Chen- necallu for some days. On the 1st of December I embarked on board the transport with my baggage; and on the following day the officers and detachment embarked, The General was to proceed to Constantinople in a Turkish boat. In the morning I went over to Mi to, on the Eu- (9) 66 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ropean side, and purchased a cask of wine at six paras the oke, somewhat less than three pence English per bottle. In the after- noon we sailed for Constantinople, with a fair and steady breeze, and passed Gallipoli late in the evening. On the 3d we entered the Sea of Marmora with a fresh gale; and on the 4th at noon, the transport anchored in Constantinople harbour. On our landing we found that the General was not yet arrived, which happened two or three days afterwards. The officers paid a visit to Lord Elgin, by whom we were invited to dine on the following day. CHAPTER VI. Reception at Constantinople. Castle of the seven towers. Palace of Belisa- rius. Apprehension of the plague. Execution of several Turks for robberies. Thehans, or residence of the Turkish merchants. Sudden changes of ashi, and whose employment resembles in some instances that of our yeomen of the guards, with this striking exception, however, that they hold them- selves in constant readiness to be dispatched to every part of the empire on public busi- ness, and are intrusted with the firmans, dispatches, &c. They likewise precede the Sultan, and gre.it officers of state, either on foot or on horseback, with silver s'icks, from the ton of which small balls of the same metal a'e appended, as a badge of theii office. 78 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, accompanies the latter when he visits the apartments of the Sulta- nas, taking his station withoutside the door. The Capi Aga, is without a beard and without mustaches, the reason of which will be readily understood, when it is remembered that he is the chief of the eunuchs. The capigis, acting under him as porters, or door- keepers, are employed in the execution of a Pacha, or other person of rank, who is to be poisoned, strangled, beheaded, or otherwise taken off, according to the nature of his offence, or the degree of consequence he may have possessed. During the latter part of the month of February, and the com- mencement of March, the changes of weather were sudden and extraordinary. At intervals the snow fell in abundance, with a cold and raw air; while at other times there was a considerable degree of heat in the atmosphere, accompanied by heavy showers of rain. These unusual and frequent alterations of the weather were pro- ductive of catarrhs, coughs, and sore throats, which became very general in the Turkish capital and suburbs. The 7th of March being a very fine and warm dav, I took a morning's walk in the environs of Bishictash, and saw, for the first time during the sea- son, several very young lambs. Their flesh is not allowed to be eaten in Turkey until the month of April. Among the Mahome- tans there is an entire prohibition of pork, which is, notwithstand- ing, allowed to be brought to market, at the commencement of the spring season, for the use of the foreign ministers, and ether christian residents. This indulgence afforded us an opportunity of purchasing a joint of pork, which, very unfortunately, we sent to a Turkish baker to be cooked. The discovery which ensued had nearly subjected us to some very unpleasant circum- stances ; and the poor baker was made to pay a fine of twenty pi- astres. On the 10th, a slight shock of an earthquake was felt at Galata. On the 12th the weather again became unpleasantly cold, with falls of snow: during the night the thermometer was below the freezing point. This intemperature of the air, which could scarce- ly have been expected in such a climate, now that the spring was fast advancing, continued, with almost unabated severity, till to- wards the close of the month; not, however, without some of those transitions which I have had such repeated occasions to notice, and which were necessarily productive of many ailments. It ap- peared that in Asia the weather was much milder, and indeed alto- gether different from that which we experienced at Constantinople ; SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 79 for on the 23d, 1 purchased several bunches of violets and narcis- sus flowers, brought from that quarter. They were at that time sent in great abundance from the interior of the Asiatic territory to the capital; but were no where to be seen on the banks of the Bos- phorus. A few days prior to the last date of my narrative, an incident occurred which terminated in a singular way. One of the men be- longing to the British mission was, without anv provocation on his side, assaulted by a Turk, who attempted to stab him with his yatikan. On a report of this outrage being made to the Capitan Pacha, to whose retinue the Turk belonged, he came to a resolu- tion to have him decapitated, as an expiation of his offence. By the mediation and entreaties of Lord Elgin, a mitigation of the punishment ensued : the Turk, after having received fifty strokes of the bastinado on the soles of his feet, was sentenced to twen- ty years imprisonment in the college of Pcra, to learn the Arabic language. Intelligence vvas received on the 26th, that a formidable band of robbers, in number four or five thousand, had proceeded to the town of Burgas, which, although at a verv inconsiderable distance from the capital, they had ravaged with impunity. Similar bands had, during our residence in Turkey, infested the neighbourhood of Adrianople, and furnished a striking proof of the enfeebled state of the Turkish government, which permitted the high roads with- in a few leagues of the seat of the empire, to be beset to such a degree by these hordes of banditti, that travellers were at every step in imminent danger both of their lives and property. It was however reported, that the Levant Chijlick regiment was under orders to set out without delay for their dispersion. On the 28th, further accounts relative to the devastations of these banditti were brought to Constantinople. It was reported that they had burned several villages, and murdered such of the in- habitants as had not had time to betake themselves to flight, tope- ther with the young children. The inhabitants of the places situ- ated within their reach, were every where betaking themselves to flight; and a letter from Ridoslo stated, that that place was croud- ed with people, who had come thither for shelter, or to procure boats to facilitate their escape from these ferocious bands. The in- habitants of Ridosto were employed in digging a ditch round the town, and in contriving other means of defence, being in the daily expectation of a visit from them, and of being exposed to the alter- 80 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, native of paying the heavy contributions they exacted wherever they came, or, in case of their incapacity, of having the town burned, and themselves put to the sword. In consequence of the rapid pro- gress of these plunderers, the Turkish government had at length come to a resolution to dispatch, in their pursuit, from eight to ten thousand infantry and cavalry. The precautionary measure had al- so been taken, both in Constantinople and in Peru, of apprehend- ing all those who were suspected of having maintained a criminal intercourse with them; and such as were found guilty were instant- ly hung to a door-post, or tree, the bodies remaining suspended for public view during three days. One of these bodies was seen hang- ing by several officers belonging to the mission, at an extremity of the suburb of Pera, in the vicinity of the plague hospital. On the evening of the 30th, Major Bromley arrived at Con- stantinople, with dispatches to Lord Elgin from Sir Sydney Smith. He was also the bearer of letters from General Kothler, and from the officers by whom he was accompanied, dated at Cyprus, where he had left them about a month before. The General had forward- ed a letter to the Vizier, and was in daily expectation of an answer. The information received from Mr. Carlisle purported, that he had embarked on board Le Tigre to proceed to the station off Alexan- dria, at which place, I was informed by Major Bromley, the plague raged with great violence. He related the particulars of the death of a brother of the French general officer, Julien, who received the infection by taking a pinch of snuff from a box, out of which a person who had the plague on him at the time had also taken snuff. On the 2d of April 1 accompanied Lord Elgin and his suite to the arsenal, to be present at the launch of a ship of seventy-four guns. We set out on horseback, at seven in the morning, and were shewn into a kiosque, which had been prepared for his Lord- ship's reception. The launch was announced by the firing of guns, by music, and other public demonstrations of joy ; and several sheep were sacrificed on the occasion. A little after eight o'clock the launch took place, and being conducted in a very mastcrlv manner, afforded us much pleasure. The Grand Seignor, surrounded by aii the great officers of state, and Turkish grandees, was stated in the balcony of the Capitan Pacha's ship. The great variety of colours which were displayed gave an additional brilliancy to the scene. The Turkish mode of launching differs essentially from ours : in entering the water, the ship carries with it a considerable quantity of timber, which had served it for a cradle while building. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 8 1 The launch being over, we proceeded to a stone bason, recently constructed by Captain Ilowdej/, a Swedish engineer, the only one in the ports of the Turkish empire, into which a ship of seventy four guns was to be received, it being the first time of its being used. The Grand Seignor went thither in his barge, which had twenty four rowers., and was about eighty feet in length, with a canopv richly and elegantly fitted up. On his passing, a salute was fired from the off side of the men of war. Being landed, he took his station at the window of a kiosque, fitted up expressly for the occasion, in the vicinity of the bason. The ship was with great ad- dress conveyed into the bason; and, on the whole being concluded, both the ship-buiiders, and those by whom the bason had been con- structed, were complimented with pelices of different values, and other presents. Several caftans were also distributed. In the vast concourse of persons assembled to witness the launch, and the operation which followed, there were many Turkish wo- men, who were, however, separated from the men. Notwith- standing every part of the harbour was covered with boats filled with spectators, we did not hear of any accident having occurred; neither did we witness the smallest confusion. Much of the praise was due to the Capitan Pacha, who was extremely active through- out the whole of the business, and who every where enforced obe- dience, and maintained good order. The ship which was launched had been ready several weeks before; but it had been deeaicd expe- dient to delay the launch until a favourable report should be made by the astrologers and dealers in magic, who at length predicted, that the 2d of April would be a favourable day for that purpose.* She was constructed by Monsieur Le Brun, a French builder. On the 5th, in a morning's walk in the environs of Bishictash, I went into a house where the kymack was prepared daily, to see the process employed in making it, which is as follows: Large shallow vessels of copper having been filled with new milk from the cow, are placed over a gentle wood fire, and the milk kept sim- mering for the space of twenty-four hours, when the fire is remo- ved, and the milk allowed to cool. On the following day the sur- face, which has assumed a consistent form, is taken off, cut into small portions, and rolled up for use, This is the kymack, which is so generally employed, and so highly esteemed in Turkey. It * It is scarcely credible that such folly should exist in any part of Europe at the close ef the eighteenth century. Can such a peoole be formilable? ( I"-) 82 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY", is an excellent substitute for butter; and is eaten by some with ho- ney or sugar, by others with salt. The process I have just descri- bed has some affinity to that employed in making the clotted cream, which is to be met with in the western counties of England. On the morning of the 6th, General Koekler and Major Fletcher returned to Constantinople from Cyprus. The weather, which had been cold and ungenial for a considerable time past, and which still so oh the 9th, suddenly became fine and warm, insomuch that on the following day the transition was so great as to resemble a rapid passage from winter to summer. Such a change was indeed much wanted, great numbers of persons, both in the capital and suburbs, labouring under complaints which evidently resulted from the late uncommon rigour and inclemency of the season. On the 13th I went in a boat with the Rev. Mr. Hunt, chaplain to the British embassy, to Leanrfer's tower, situated on the Bos- phbrus, between Saitdnzhd Constantinople. We'sought the well, or spring of fresh water, which history reports to have existed there, but could not discover the smallest traces of it. We were led, therefore, to consider this tradition as apocryphal, and to infer, that if fresh water was at any time found there, it was owing to the rains. The persons who resided in the tower were obliged to procure from a distant spot their supply of water, which I tasted. They conducted us to the part which is occasionally lighted up, to direct, by night, the vessels sailing into the harbour. It was from this tower that Mr. Barker made one of his views for the panora- ma; and it afforded us a delightful prospect of the city, suburbs, and surrounding country. The seraglio more particularly was seen with a charming effect from this commanding eminence. After hiving satisfied our conductors, we went in the boat to Scutari, an ill built town, with narrow, winding streets, or rather lanes, which, as it presented nothing thatxould gratify the traveller's notice, we soon quitted, and returned to Galata. I was told, that at Brusa, in Asia Minor, a town situated at the distance of a day's journey from Constantinople, there are hot baths and mineral springs, which are found extremely useful in the complaints prevailing in Turkey, more especially in the rheuma- tism , and that many persons, having great confidence in these wa- ters, went thither, during the month of May, from the capital, to spend two or three weeks. On the 15 th accounts were brought to Constantinople that the Levant Chijiick regiment, which had been sent against the bands SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &T~ 8j of robbers who infested Bomelia, had succeeded iu dispersing them, but that the commandant of the regiment, a German., had been wounded. On the 21st the weather was oppressively warm. [ walked to the cemetery withoutside of Peru, and was dure witness to a very- pleasing and novel scene. It being the Easter of the Greeks, a- musements of every description were exhibited ; and the colours and varieties of the costumes displayed by the immense crouds of persons collected together, rendered the spectacle highly interesting. There were wrestling matches, stalls filled with sweetmeats and sherbet, and groups of persons seated on the grass, playing at dif- ferent games of chance, while others were engaged in dancing in rings, to the music of an instrument not unlike our bagpipe. This scene reminded me of a country wake in England, to which i: would have borne a still stronger resemblance, if a considerable number of frying pans had not given it somewhat the odour of our Bar thole me-dO fair. They were employed, not for frying sausages, but liver, lights, &c. On every such day of festivity, the Greeks, of course, disp - their best dresses, which, in many instances, are both tasteful costly. The sobriety of their demeanour cannot be equally com- mended; since it too frequently happens that, by launching out in- to every excess, they require the interference of the Turkish guards, stationed purposely to repress the tumult and disorder in which the giddy scene may chance to terminate. During their lent they subsist on oil and fish, observing a most rigid abstinence. I have been told that this diet is, both among them and the Armenians, productive of herpetic complaints, scror- phulous affections, ophtbalmies, and several other diseases. On the 25th I walked out with a party, with the intention of crossing over to Constantinople, to make an excursion round the walls. On our reaching fophana, we witnessed a most daring robbery (committed in the open street, at eleven in the morning, and in the presence of many persons who were passing at the time) by two galangis (seamen) belonging to the Capitan Pacha's i: They attacked an Armenian, from whom they took two sequins, and were proceeding to rifle him still further on our coming up. We were armed ; and on our manifesting our displeasure at the conduct of these villains, they suffered the Armenian to depart, but not until they had forced him to kiss one of them, as a token of ac- knowledgment for their forbearance. In passing through the same 84 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, stree.t, for the distance of a quarter of a mile, the people were as- sembled, and on the look out, but dared not take any steps to ap- prehend the lobbers. This is one of many features which might be recorded of the shameful negligence and inattention of the Turk- ish government. The galangis in question afterwards robbed two women at Gdlata; on our reaching which place we were informed bv Messrs. Chandler and Whitcman, belonging to the mission, in the qualities of commissary and assistant commissary, that they also had been robbed there, near the tower. The crews of the men of war belonging to the fleet, which was preparing to sail, had for se- veral days kept the inhabitants of Constantinople, Galata, and Pera, in a constant stare of alarm, plundering and assassinating with impunity all whom they encountered, and who were incapable of defence. Their excesses are always most to be dreaded when the fleet is on the eve of its departure, at which time the inhabitants constantly take the precaution to shut their shops, to guard as much as possible against their lawless excesses. On the above occasion we relinquished the plan of our excursion to Constantinople, which we now considered as too hazardous. It was announcer! on the 26th, that Seid AH, a Turkish rear- admirai, who had been sentenced to be decapitated, had, through the humane interference of Lord Elgin, the British ambassador, had this • apital punishment remitted, on condition of his being ba- nished to the island oi Cyprus. A considerable number of janissa- ries and galangis, amounting, it was said, to an hundred and twen- ty or an hundred and thirty, were executed about this time, in con- sequence of the atrocities lately committed by them in the capital and suburbs. A timely prevention of the crimes of which they had rendered themselves cuhpabie, would have been better than this tardy punishment. On the 28th a present was received from the Capitan Pacha, for the widow of the late brave and meritorious officer, Captain Mil- ler, of his Majesty's ship the Theseus, who lost his life on board that ship on the coast of Syria, by the bursting of several shells. This present was given in acknowledgment of the services which that much lamented officer had rendered to the Turkish govern- ment. On the 29th the squadron of the Capitan Pacha, consisting of se- ven ships of the line, four ships of fifty guns, and seven frigates and smaller vessels, sailed from the harbour of Constantinople for Egypt. On its way it was to tcuch at Gallipoli, and several other SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 85 towns in the Turkish provinces, to levy contributions, and take in a supply of biscuit for the voyage. The weather was at this time become warm, settled, and agree- able. In the course of the morning, a party being made, we took boat, and crossed over to Asia. We landed near the ruins of an ancient imperial palace, over which we walked. On our penetra- ting -into the country, we found the state of vegetation several weeks more advanced than on the European side. The fields were overspread with flowers and odoriferous shrubs in bloom; the wheat was already formed in the ear ; and the grass in the mea- dows nearly fit for mowing. In short, the general appearance of the country, and the smiling and verdant scenes by which we were surrounded, formed altogether a striking contrast to what we had recently contemplated on the other side of the water. We walked over the plain of the ancient Chalcedon, on the site of which stands a Turkish village, called Cadi/ Kui. There, beneath the shade of the branches o{ a fine oriental plane tree, we took our coffee on the grass, absorbed in the contemplation of the objects by which we were encompassed. In addition to the fine prospects which the interior of the country afforded, we had a distinct view of the gulf of Nicomedia, and of the Dcemonesi, or Princes' 1 Islands. If we could judge from the numerous groups of men and women scattered over this delightful country, it must have been well peopled. Among them I saw, for the first time, a Turkish woman at her pravers, in the open field. Such an incident, which is very common among the men, very rarely occurs among the females. Towards the afternoon the weather became oppressively hot ; and this hastened our return at three o'clock, when we took boat to cross to the European side. On the 30th letters were received from Captain Lacy, and from Mr. lilorier, secretary to Lord Elgin, who had spent some time with the Turkish army, with the details of the defeat of the army of the Grand Vizier, by the Trench troops commanded by General Kleber. On the 1st of May, garfands of flowers were hung over the doors of several houses, in the suburb in which I resided, in commemora- tion of the day. I was told that in several parts of Turkey, more particularly at thePrinces 1 Islands, this festival was celebrated by the Greeks and others by great public rejoicings. On the following dav, in walking through the streets in the vi- cinity of Tophana, I saw a great number of sheep collected in pens £6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, for sale, as is the custom in England. This was preparatory to the feast of the Biram courbam, when every Turk of any rank or condition was to sacrifice a sheep, and, having eaten a portion of it, to distribute the remainder to the poor. On the 4th the festival of the Biram courbam, which has been already described, commenced. As soon as the new moon was discovered, by men stationed expressly for that purpose, it was announced to the people by discharges of artillery, musketry, -ks has, however, in a great measure, defaced : beneath them are sus- pended great numbers of coloured lamps, interspersed with gilt or- naments. Several leading passages of the Koran, beiore which the Turks make genuflexions, and pray with great fervency, ars SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 87 hung up near the pulpit, behind which is the sanctuary. Ad- joining to the great corridor there is a chapel ; and a gallery, ap- propriated to the women, surrounds the whole of the interior of the building. The nave is supported by columns of porphyry, granite, &c. The Pacha of Ni'comedia, Hussein Pacha, on his return to Con- stantinople from Ridosto, whither he had been sent some time be- fore for the purpose of dispersing the bands of robbers collected in Romeliu, was decapitated on the 22d. On this occasion a remar- kable instance of Turkish duplicity occurred. His reception by the Kia ma kan, on his reaching the capital, was highly flattering ; and he was invited bv him to proceed to the seraglio, and there re- ceive the rewards due to his good and meritorious conduct. On his entering, however, the gate of the seraglio, after the Kia ma kan had saluted him, and wished him a good morning, he was seized by the guards, and instantly decapitated. It was reported, that he had been guiltv of several gross acts of misconduct; and it was urged, among other accusations, that he had not opposed so effectual a resistance to the banditti as he might have done ; and that he had levied heavy contributions on the inhabitants of Ridosto, and of the other towns of Romtlia. On the 2Gth General Koehlcr, and all the officers belonging to the mission, went in procession through the streets of Constan- tinople to the Porte. Several horses richly caparisoned, under the charge of one of the Grand Seignor's equerries, and led by as ma- ny sais, or Turkish grooms, were, together with a party of janis- saries, and other troops, in waiting at the landing place to conduct them to the Porte, on their reaching which, they were presented to the Reis EfFendi, Kia ma kan, and Kiabey, each in his particu- lar apartment. After the usual compliments had been paid them, the General and Lieutenant-colonel Hollozvay were invested with pelices, and the other officers with beniches, or robes of honour. Embroidered handkerchiefs, and other presents, were also distribu- ted. Having taken leave, they returned in procession, observing the same order as in setting out. This visit of ceremony had been appointed by the Porte, previously to the departure of the mission for Syria, to join the army of the Grand Vizier, for which pur- pose the detachment was under orders to embark on board the trans- port. On the 4th of June a superb fete, in honour of his Majesty's birth-day, was given by Lord Elgin. On this occasion all the 88 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY", members of the diplomatic body, with their families, were invited, and a very select and fashionable party formed. In the front of his Lordship's palace at Belgrade, a booth was fitted up, and the roy- al standard displayed. The awning and avenues leading to the pa- lace were fancifully decorated with branches of oak, and festoons of flowers; and in the centre of the table, within the tent or booth, a bank of flowers was disposed, the top of the" tent itself being or- namented with festoons of rose branches. Precisely at three o'clock the dinner, which consisted of every delicacy the season could sup- ply, and the place afford, and to which more than an hundred per- sons sat down, was served. Before the desert was placed on the table, the King's health was given; and on this signal his Lordship's band played God save the King, the company joining in the cho- rus. This was followed by three cheers, all the guests standing up; and next succeeded a salute of twenty-one maroons. After dinner the company withdrew to the palace, where several select pieces of music were played by the band; and in the evening the country dances commenced beneath the tent. At eleven o'clock a cold collation was served; and the entertainment was concluded by country dances, which were continued within the palace until two in the morning, when the company broke up, highly gratified by the amusements of the day, which were rendered still more plea- sing by the fineness and serenity of the weather. The effect of the dances beneath the tent was singularly picturesque. Our departure for Syria having been seriously decided on by the Turkish government, the men belonging to the mission were about this time embarked on board the transport. The wind, however, continuing contrary for some time, the officers did not embark un- til the 1 3th. On our quitting Belgrade for that purpose, we were accompanied to the transport by Lord and Lady Elgin, who took their leave of us in a most cordial and friendly manner. All our arrangements having been made, we waited for a favourable breeze only to succeed the calm which prevailed, and to convey us safely out of the harbour. Before I take my leave, for the present, of the capital of Turkey y I must intrude upon the reader's patience to introduce an anecdote tending to shew that the Turkish empire has produced men not de- ficient in judgment and acute penetration, who, with minds better cultivated, would be the boast and ornament of any nation whate- ver. A case of usury was brought before the Grand Vizier. A Turk had lent to another a sum of money equal to a thousand SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. $C? pounds sterling, at an interest which was immoderate even in this country, where the legal interest, in some instances, amounts to twenty per cent. The borrower kept this money in use during ten years, when he refunded it to the lender, hut refused to pay the in- terest, on the ground of" its illegality. The Grand Vizier acknow- ledged the justice of his plea; but with great ready wit, and a nice discernment of the case, ordered him to lend to the Turk, whose debtor he had been, without interest, an equal sum for the same space of time. CHAPTER VII. The mission set sail from Constantinople. Anchor at Princes' Islands. Visit to Adam Oglou. Greek islands. Description of Patmos. Stancho. Im- mense oriental plane-tree. Cyprus ; description of that island. Plague of locusts. Arrival at Jaffa j description of that place and its 'vicinity. NOTWITHSTANDING the wind which had sprung up was unfavourable, such was the anxiety expressed by the Porte for the departure of the mission, that we were in a manner obliged to get underway on the I5th. We were provided with firmans to the different Pachas and Agas of the islands at which we might have occasion to touch, with instructions to afford us every possible assistance, and to furnish such supplies as might tend to facilitate the object of our voyage. At half past ten in the morning we weighed anchor, and sailed from the harbour of Constantinople ; but the wind falling off, could not proceed further than Princes'' Islands. At three in the after- noon we anchored between Antigone and Kirka, which form a part of the group, and are situated at a small distance (eight or ten miles) from the Seven Towers. In the vicinity of the safe and commodious harbour in which we lay, at the back part of the island of Antigone, we perceived a small village, inhabited entirely by Greeks. This was an inducement to us to go on shore in the evening, when we found the heat extremely oppressive. On the 1 6th, the wind having shifted to the northward, We weighed anchor, and sailed with a fresh breeze, which continuing to favour us, we described Gallipoli, at nina in the morning of the ( 12 ) 9 •: e which result from the murderous weapon of the adversary, can du- ly estimate the sad reckoning of our feelings and sensations. Signor Bostri, physician to the Grand Vizier, afforded me some consolation at our meeting, by the assurance he gave me that the camp was at that time in a tolerably healthy state, the prevailing diseases being bilious fevers, which did not terminate fatally. He observed, that the plague had recently manifested itself in a few in- stances only, and those of the mildest nature, which had yielded to the remedies administered. ( 13 ) n% TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, The situation which had heen chosen for the camp manifested an incredible degree of ignorance and imprudence on the part of those who had been entrusted with the marking out of the ground: being placed to leeward of the town, the sea breeze, which constantly prevailed during the day time, distributed to every part of it the putrid noxious effluvia which the streets of Jaffa produced. The tents were absolutely pitched among the abodes of the dead; and the bodies of those who had been interred were in general so su- perficially covered over by the earth, that the putrid exhalations which were thus generated were intolerable to the passenger, and must have been as baneful as disgusting to those who were con- stantly exposed to them. To complete fche horrors of this scene of filth and depravity, the carcases of dead animals, such as camels, horses, and asses, were scattered in great abundance among the tents, to corrupt and moulder away, without giving the smallest concern, or apparently offering any kind of molestation to the Turkish soldiery. It will not be surprising, in the sequel, to find them verv sickly, unless we could suppose that their mode of living, and the air which they have been accustomed to inspire, should have rendered their temperament unsusceptible to the operation of such baneful causes. On the subject of the plague, Sonini is of opinion, that it is not endemic in Egypt and Syria; but that, whenever it has raged in the capital of Turkey, it has been brought thither from other parts of the Turkish empire, properly so called, that is, from the neigh- bouring provinces. Without entering, on this occasion, into a dis- pute which would require a long series of observations to decide, I shall confine myself to the mention of a fact which strongly mili- tates against this opinion, namely, that since the communication with Egypt has been intercepted, Constantinople has been almost entirely free from the plague. Mr. Wright, of his Majesty's ship Le Tigre, arrived at Jaffa late in the evening from Cairo, to which place he had gone with dispatches, and had passed twelve days on his route. He brought intelligence of the assassination of General Kleber ; of Menou, who had turned Mahomcdan, and taken the name of Abdullah, having succeeded to the command of the Erench forces ; and of the situation of M our ad Bey, who had rejoined his camp. He repre- sented the new French commander in chief, Menou, as making every preparation to oppose a vigorous resistance ; and described the Erench troops, who were extremely exasperated at the death SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, which we were placed among the Turkish troops. On the 31st the Kallern Bashi, the officer who has the charge of the Vizier's writing implements, &c. was found murdered in the camp. On the 2d of August the New Adventure transport arrived from Cyprus, which place she had left fourteen days before, having been swept by the currents towards Alexandretta. In the evening I rode through the gardens of Jaffa, where I saw a great abundance of prickly pear-trees, which are employed as fences, and are admirably well adapted to that purpose. -The natives are very fond of the fruit. The grapes were ripened, and were, as well as the figs, of an excellent quality. With respect to the water-melons, they were so large, that at dinner, some days before, one was brought to us which weighed twenty-five pounds. A party of Turkish soldiers, consisting of about three hundred, left the camp on the morning of the 3d, for El-Arish ; and, in the evening, Mahomed Pacha, with two thousand men, set off for the same destination. A considerable reinforcement of troops from the eastward reached the camp on the 5th; and in the evening we were informed, that several laden camels, with their attendants, had come in from Grand Cairo. On the morning of the 6th, Captain Lacy, of the royal engi- neers, set off for El-Arish, mounted on a hedjin, or dromedary, as were also the persons who accompanied him. On the following day, Mr. White-man embarked on board the New Adventure trans- port, bound to Cyprus. He was the bearer of despatches for Lords Elgin and Grcnville, which were to be forwarded to their respec- tive destinations by the British consul at Larnica. The transport did not, however, sail until the 9th, at two in the morning, when she took the advantage of the land breeze, which generally pre- vails at that early part of the day. At the same time six hundred Albanians left the camp for El- Arish. I made an excursion, in the evening, to the sand hills (si- tuated near the sea-side, and about three miles distant from the encampment), the scene of the horrid massacre of the captured Turks and Christians, by the order of the French commander in chief, Bonaparte, some days after he had taken possession of Jaffa. I have already touched on this act, so inglorious to its perpetrator, in the account I have given of that place j and I shall add here, that SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. loj the distance of time which elapsed after these poor wretches had surrendered, and which furnished a fit opportunity for cooi reflec- tion, and the distance of the spot to which they were led, at least a league from the place of their captivity, manifest a spirit of dia- bolical revenge, of atrocious tyranny, which, for the honour of human nature, it is to be trusted, will never recur on any future oc- casion, among civilized and enlightened nations, to blacken the page of history, and to sully the military character. The surface of the ground had been some time before thickly covered with the skele- tons of the victims; but at the time of my visit they were much reduced in number, the Grand Vizier having ordered a large hole to be dug, into which as many as could be well collected were thrown. Skulls, bones, remnants of clothing, &c. Sec. were still., notwithstanding, scattered over every part of the hillocks. Inconsequence of an invitation from the Grand Vizier to General Koehler and officers, to be spectators of the skill and dexterity of the Turkish soldiers in the use of their sabres, we assembled, on the 11th, in front of his Highness's tent. A caouk, or turban, being placed on a stool, the Turks cut at it with their sabres. Those who made the deepest cuts were immedi- ately rewarded with several sequins, which they received from the hands of the Vizier. As the turban was composed of a mixture of wool and cotton, covered over with thick cloth, it required no little adroitness and dexterity to penetrate into its substance by a blow of the sabre. Such, however, was the effect of practice, that the impressions made by the Turkish soldiers were very deep. Letters were received on the 13th from Captain Lacij, who was arrived at El-Arish, and had experienced a flattering reception. In the evening I took a ride along the sea side, and saw several jackals, which abound in this part of the world. On the 14th the Turks began to dig in the environs of Jaffa, to prepare the ground for the erection of several works for the better defence of the place, under the direction of Colonel llolloway. It was at this time reported, that the plague raged with great vio- lence among the Mamelukes, in consequence of which strict orders were given by the General to avoid all communication with them. Monsieur Franchini, a Russian agent, lay dangerously ill of the plague at Jaffa, In. the course of the night we were much alarmed by the cir- cumstance, of a stranger having found fys way into our tent» On 108 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ca ling to the sentinel, we found, after a little search, that our unseasonable visiter was a poor insane Turk, who had been pur- sut u by one of his countrymen from the camp, and had sought re- fuge in the tent. Monsieur FraiicMni died on the 15th at night. He had been sent by the Russian minister at Constantinople as an agent to keep up a communication with the Turkish ministers in camp, and to give an account of the military operations. He had caught the pestilential infection from two domestics belonging to the Vizier's new dragoman, who were recently arrived from Constantinople, , and both of whom had fallen victims to the disease. Monsieur Franchini languished six days after the attack. On the morning of the 17th two hundred janissaries arrived in the camp from Constantinople. In making an excursion towards Gaza in the afternoon, I met with the body of an unfortunate man, who had just been assassinated. He had received two strokes of a •sabre, one of which had nearly severed the head from the body. His turban had been carried off; but the stick which lay behind, and the style of his dress, pointed him out as a wandering Arab. On the 18th in the morning, General Koehler and the officers went to a plain in the vicinity of the encampment, to be present at a review of the Turkish troops by his Highness the Grand Vis zier. Adjoining to his own tent, which, being fitted up in the oriental, or Persian style, far exceeded, in richness and magnifi- cence, any thing we had seen before, a tent was prepared for our reception. The infantry and artillery were drawn up in three bo- dies, that is, a main body and two wings, nearly in a line, with the guns in front. While the whole advanced slowly, a firing was kept up exclusively by the artillery; and the movement having been continued for the space of six or seven hundred yards, the troops faced to the right about, when, the guns being again brought to their front, they returned to their former ground, firing in the same manner as when they advanced. This absurd manoeuvre was the only one they displayed. During the whole of the time the infan- try remained with their arms shouldered, the Amends or Albani- ans shouting. In returning, the Grand Vizier was mounted on a fine Arabian horse, richly caparisoned. His Highness was ele- gantly dressed, as were also his principal officers and attendants. "We were invited to join in the cavalcade, on its way back to the encampment. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I09 About this time, in a conversation with our officers, the Grand Vizier, in speaking of the convention of El-Arish, compared what had been done on that occasion to a physician, who, having given to his patient a dose of medicine by which he was relieved, admi- nistered to him an after dose, which rendered him worse than he was at first. We were informed that the plague continued to rage with great violence among the Mamelukes, insomuch that on the preceding day, the 17th, one of their cachefs, or chiefs, had lost eighteen of his men. There were at that time about sixteen hundred Mame- luke troops in the camp. A gun-boat belonging to Sir Sydney Smith's squadron arrived on the afternoon of the 20th from Alexandria, with despatches from Sir Sydney and from the Capitan Pacha to the Vizier and General. Through this channel we were informed, that the Mercury, an English frigate of twenty-eighc guns, commanded by Captain Rogers, was to be daily expected at Jaffa. Mr. Reynolds, commanding the gun-boat, and Mr. Spilsbury, the surgeon, dined with us at the camp on the 22d. The latter described the twelve cases of plague which he had seen on board le Tigre, in the course of the last year, while that ship was off Acre. Major Feud, he told me, had before his death, all the symp- toms of yellow fever. In general, the subjects who were attacked were of a robust temperament; and, among the predisposing causes, were to be reckoned the abuse of spirituous liquors, and more espe- cially, the dread and apprehension of the plague. Mr. Spilsbury laid much stress on the latter of these causes giving it as his decided opinion, that the death of Colonel Philipoe, who constantly la- boured under the most alarming apprehensions of an attack of that disease; was entirely owing to the anxiety with which his mind was tortured by these distressing fears. Two men were beheaded at Jaffa on the 23d, for selling spirits and wine to the troops. Within the last two days several of our men, who had impru- dently left off their flannel dresses, were attacked by symptoms of fever arising from obstructed perspiration. The evenings had latterly been cool and damp, with considerable falls of dew. The plague continued to make great ravages among the Mamelukes, who had, according to report, lost four hundred men, nearly the fourth of their whole number. IIG TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, The gun-boat, commanded by Mr. Reynolds, left Jaffa on the 24th. She was to proceed to Acre, and thence to Cyprus, and, lastly, was to join le Tigre, at that time cruising off Cape Baffa. Another of our gun-boats, the Mary Ann, had, we were informed, been lost on the rocks near Larnica. On the 25th, Mahmoud Raif, the newly appointed Reis Effendi, arrived at the camp from Constantinople, which place he had left eighteen days before. I made one of a party in an afternoon's ride to two Arab villa- ges, the houses of which were built with mud, stones, and chop- ped straw. The women were covered by a thin loose dress of blue cotton, and wore over the face a black veil, which, on the whole, rendered their appearance, to us at least, very disgusting. They are employed in the most common drudgeries; and carry on their heads, in white earthen vessels, honey, milk, and fresh water. They are the only women who are allowed to come into the Turk- ish camp. ^ On our return towards the camp we saw Several gazelles, or an- telopes, which we pursued, without being, however, able to over- take them. To effect this would have required the aid of dogs. We were notwithstanding told, that instances had occurred, in which the Arabs, mounted on their fleet horses, had kept pace with these animals, and had succeeded in catching them, by darting a stick between their legs, and thus impeding their flight. About fifteen hundred cavalry arrived on the 26th from Konieh. Their complexion was very dark, and their dress singular. They were well mounted; and in general tall and personable men. On the 27th, Mr. Vinchenzo, our dragoman, or interpreter, was taken suddenly ill with symptoms of fever. As he had had occasi- onal intercourse with the Mamelukes, among whom a great morta- lity still prevailed; and as his complaint bore a very unfavourable aspect, the General, with great prudence, ordered him to be sent to the town on the following day. On the morning of the 28th, the officers of the mission accom- panied the General on a visit to the new Reis Effendi. I have alrea- dy given a sketch of his character, in speaking of the principal offi- cers in the Turkish camp. Me is certainly far superior to the Turks in general, both in manners and intelligence ; and this may be ascri- be! to his having seen and mixed with society in various parts of Europe. His appearance indicated a lively and cheerful disposition. In sneaking of the plague which was entirely confined to the Ma- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. Ill melukes, he observed, that the season for it was just passed, since on the 16th of August old style (the preceding day), it was gene- rally considered that, in the districts where it had made its appear- ance, its ravages would cease. He seemed to entertain a great par- tiality for the English nation ; and shewed us an English sabre and a pair of pistols which he had purchased in London. The latter made by liennct near the Royal Exchange. On the 30th, his Highness the Grand Vizier went in state to lay the first stone of the intended new bastion. He was met on the ground by the mission ; and in the vicinity of the work, tents were pitched for the reception of his Highness and the officers. After having taken coffee and other refreshments, he proceeded with great pomp to the foundations, which had been dug out. A prayer having been repeated with much solemnity by one of the Turkish priests, accompanied by the Vizier himself, as well as by all the of- ficers of state and other Mussulmen present, the stone was laid, and a small mallet covered with velvet, handed to his Highness. With this mallet he struck the stone three times, repeating solemn- ly a short prayer. In this ceremony he was followed by each of the officers of state and attendants, at the same time that several sheep were sacrificed. The stone having been sprinkled with the blood of these animals, was covered over with a plate of copper on which an inscription had been engraven. This ceremony being concluded, the whole of the company returned to the tents, where the Gene- ral, and Lieucenant-colonel Hollow ay, commanding the royal engi- neers, were invested by the Grand Vizier with pclices; and Major Fletcher with a beniche, or robe of honour. On this occasion a vast concourse of people were assembled. On the morning of this day the transport arrived from Larnica, whither she had been dispatched on service. Several of the women on board laboured under an erysipelatous inflammation of the eyes, which had attacked them suddenly, while at Larnica, without any previous indisposition. The children also had a similar affection of the eyes; but it had not manifested itself on any of the seamen. A corps of Albanians, consisting of about one thousand, left the camp on the evening of the 31st for El-Arish. The departure of troops from the Turkish encampment was as well as their arrival, customarily announced by the discharge of muskets loaded with balls, which flying at random in every direction, endangered the lives of all those who were within their reach. This practice of firing with bullets, which is followed in every Turkish camp, was 112 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, indeed become so frequent, that we were under constant apprehen- sions of being shot. Our tents were repeatedly pierced by the balls; and one of our men, an armourer, was, while at work in our camp, wounded in the shoulder by a musket ball. The Turkish soldiers, who furnish their own ammunition at all times, except on the day of battle, when it is provided for them, conceive they have a right to amuse themselves in this manner, at their private expense. On the 1st of September I received a letter from Captain Lacy, of the royal engineers, dated at the camp of El- /Irish, the 29th of Au- gust, in which he informed me, that during the preceding ten days, lie had, as well as his servant, suffered severely from a dysenteric com- plaint. I stated to the General, by letter, my opinion of the necessity of having him removed to J (iff a ; and in consequence of this repre- sentation, Major Fletcher embarked on board the transport on the 3d, to proceed to El-Arish, and relieve the above officer in his duty. I had caught several camelions, one of which was found dead in its cage. Being desirous to know the cause of its death, I dissected it, and, on opening the intestine, found withinside a portion of a small twig, about an inch in length ; and a little farther downwards a delicate white round worm nearly four inches in length, which was alive. I was much pleased with the singular conformation of this little animal, from the mouth of which 1 drew a white tender substance, between five and six inches in length, and of the thick- ness of a goose quill. Having an increased width at its extremity* it had somewhat the appearance of an inverted cone, and was tilled with an extremely viscid and tenacious whitish fluid. This descrip- tion of tongue, or weapon, as it may be more properly termed, na- ture has supplied to the animal to enable it to seize on its prey. I had repeatedly observed my camelions dart it forth suddenly, to the distance of five or six inches, and in this manner catch flies with an equal promptitude and certainty. The viscid and tenacious quality of the fluid sufficiently explains its use. By applying the point of a probe dipped in it to the bodies of flies, I detained them for some time. The pulpy substance of which the dart or tongue, is com- posed, is projected forwards by a triangular cartilaginous ring, to which it is attached, and which is seated at the posterior part of the mouth. This cartilage is composed of rings, like the trachea in animals. The capacious lungs are composed of a number of small and de- licate cells, tinged of a fine crimson colour. On cutting into the SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 113 heart, the blood issued, but of a darker colour than that contained in the delicate pulmonary cells The liver, which was of a darkish hue, was somewhat large in proportion to the size of the animal; and the gall bladder was filled with bile of a dark green colour. Only one common strait gut was perceptible. Several small round substances, nearly of the size of a vetch, and of a deep yellow co- lour, lay connected together in the lower part of the abdomen; as did also two lobes, similar to the lungs of an animal. These were likewise of a deep yellow, or orange-colour, and were nearly of the size of a small Windsor bean. It is evident, from this account of the conformation of the animal, that those who cherished the old error of its existing upon air, must have been very inaccurate ob- servers. The camelions were very numerous in the camp, and frequently entered the tents in search of their prey. We were informed on the 5th, by our dragoman, that the Ma- melukes encamped at Jaffa had lost about eight hundred men, cither by the plague or by desertion ; and that the greater part of those commanded by Ibrahim Bey had fallen victims to disease. On the following day we were thrown into a considerable degree of alarm by a report made by another of the dragomen, or inter- preters, who told us, that he had discovered the seis (groom) lead- ing a pestiferous subject into our camp. This information pro- ved to be well founded; and the subject in question was instantly removed. A detachment of Arnauts, about a thousand in number, joined the camp on the 7th, having been conveyed to Jaffa by sea. Re- ports were in circulation that the French had landed new reinforce- ments of troops in Egypt. The transport, having on board Captain Lacy, who was some- what recovered from his indisposition, returned to Jaffa on the 8th. brought intelligence that it was the determination of the Ca- pitan Pacha, and of Sir Sydney Smith, to renew the blockade of Alexandria. On the 10th, a letter, dated at El-Arish, was received from Ma- jor F/etc/u-r, who had had an attack of fever, and was dangerously ill. The transport was in consequence ordered to proceed to El- Arish, to bring him back. About this time Osman Bey, a Ma- meluke chief, died of the plague at Jaffa; as did also Fuze/ Pacha ', one of the cachefs. ( >5) 114. TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Despatches from Lord Elgin were received by the General oft the 13th i and on the following morning the English frigate the Mercury anchored off Jaffa. She had left England about four months, had touched at Tripoli, and several other ports of the Mediterranean, and was last from Acre, which place she had quitted the evening before. Advices were brought to camp that JJjezar Pacha was employed in fortifying the works of Acre. On the evening of the 18th the Mercury frigate sailed from Jaffa, having on board despatches of great importance. The news of the surrender of the island of Malta to the British troops, transmitted by the Capitan Pacha, were communicated to the Ge- neral by the Grand Vizier and Reis Effendi. On the 20th in the morning, a detachment of troops, consisting of abour a thousand horsemen, arrived in the camp from Aleppo, chaunting; hvmns on their route. Thev were better mounted and equipped than any of those who had recently joined the Vizier's army. A heavy firing was heard in the camp on the morning of the 25th. We found, on enquiry, that it was occasioned by the dis- pleasure of the Amauts, who had become greatly exasperated at an attempt which was made to muster them. The Grand Vizier entertained a suspicion that their chiefs drew a greater number of rations for their troops than those to which they were entitled. It indeed appeared that this practice was become so frequent among them as to require an absolute check; but such was the menacing aspect which the Amauts had assumed, that his Highness deemed it prudent to relinquish this measure on the present occasion. I shall take an opportunity hereafter to give a particular account of these people, who were able to render themselves thus formidable, notwithstanding they constituted but an inconsiderable part of the Turkish army. About this time we were highly amused by several Egyptian jug- glers, who came into camp, and who, to cur no small surprise, performed a variety of tricks with great neatness and dexterity. These people travel through every part of the country, and contri- bute essentially to the entertainment of the inhabitants. A great number of jackals came almost every evening into the camp, in search of their prey, and kept up a continued yell, equal to that of a large pack of hounds in full cry, though much less mu- sical. What with the yelping of these animals, the howling of the dogs, and the braying of the asses and mules, a hideous noise SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. II5 was produced, which we should have deemed incredible, if it had not constantly assailed our astonished ears. A Turkish camp, in which the carcasses of horses, camels, asses, and mules, lay scattered in great abundance, must have fur- nished a high treat to the voracious jackals, who could not fail to find there whatever was requisite to appease their hunger. They infest every part of Syria, where they are very numerous. During the day they confine themselves to their holes and lurking places; but sally out at night, in large bodies, in search of their food. They then rendezvous in the neighbourhood of the towns and vil- lages, molesting the inhabitants by the most disagreeable of all howlings. They feed with complacency on the most filthy and odious substances; and their cruelty, in the warfare they carry on against other animals, is equal to their rapacity. On the 1st of October several discharges of musketry were heard close to our camp, and furnished a new evidence of the undisci- plined state of the Turkish troops, who had been disputing among themselves, and had proceeded to extremities. This event, which happened so near to us, excited in us a considerable degree of ap- prehension, as well as of surprise. Nearly five hundred Amauts having deserted from the camp on the 4th, the Vizier despatched in their pursuit two thousand Dehlis, who returned, however, without having accomplished their object. In a Turkish army, the Dehlis, whose name implies desperadoes, or madmen, form a part of the light cavalry. They boast, not without reason, of their courage and temerity ; and are said to feel no hesitation in undertaking the most daring enterprises. They are armed and equipped nearly in the same manner as the other Turk- ish military, witli the exception, that they wear a very high cap of a cylindrical form, made of pasteboard, and covered either with sheepskin died of a black colour, or with black cloth. This cap is secured to the head by a coloured muslin or cotton hand- kerchief. About this time Lieutenant-colonel Holloway and Major ITope were respectively requested by the mikmendar attached to the mis^ sion, to give orders to their men not to smoke in passing the tent of the Grand Vizier, lest they should be insulted by the Turkish mili- tary, contrary to whose custom this practice was. A caution found- ed on so prudential a motive, was, it may naturally be supposed, not neglected. Il6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, On the 7th Mahomed Pacha reached the camp from Hamlet* with troops, by whom the usual discharges of musketry were made on entering the ground; and on the 14th Hassan Bey Lja- davi quilted the camp for El-Arish, with a corps of five hundred Mamelukes. Here my narrative is about to take a new turn. A visit to Jeru- salem* and other parts of the Holy Land, had been for some tim projected ; and the state of inaction in which we found ourselves at this juncture prompted us to gratify our ardent curiosity, by the ac- complishment of such a journey, the particulars of which I shall now proceed to detail. CHAPTER IX. Progress through the Holy Land. Ruins of a tower erecled in honour of forty martyrs. Arabian dwellings. Ramla. Date-trees. Ophthalmia. Resi~ dence of the ]ew'\shmonarchs. St. Jerom. Arrival at Jerusalem. Situation of that city. Solomon's temple. Residence of Pontius Pilate. Extraordi- nary threat oj 'Bonaparte. Mount of Olives. David's toiver. Holy sepul- chre. Scene of our Saviour's sufferings. Tomb q/"Bal .J win*. Humanity and good sense of a Turkish santon. Visit from the Mufti. Armenian convent. Head of St. James. Mount Sion. Bethlehem. Temple of St. Catharine. Pools of Solomon. Gardens of Solomon. Birth-place of our Saviour. Re- ceptacle of the murdered Innocents. Tomb of St. Jerom. Convent of St. Catharine. Inhabitants of Bethlehem. Sepulchres of the kings. Sepulchre of the Virgin Mary. Valley of Jehosaphat. Impression of our Saviour" s foot on the Mount of Olives. Tombs of Absalom and Zet-hariah. Wells of Ne- hemiah. Burial-place of king David. Convent oj St. Helena. Birth-plac e of John the Baptist. Joseph of Arimathea. Topographical account of the most interesting objects in the Holy Land. ON the morning of the 15th of October, before break of day, we left the camp on our way to Jerusalem. Our party con- sisted of the General and Mrs. Koehler, Major Hope, Captain Leake, Messrs. Chandler, Whiteman, Pink, and myself. We were accompanied bv the choarbagi, a p?rty of janissaries, a small detachment of Turkish horsemen, and other guards and attendants. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I 17 After a very agreeable ride of three hours, we arrived at Ramla, within a quarter of a mile of which we met with a large ruin, ha- ving a square steeple, and a gallery above, in ascending to which. we counted an hundred and twelve steps* It is said that it was for- merly much loftier than it is at present, and was erected in honour of the forty martyrs who suffered death in Armenia. In our route from this place, we passed through several Arab villages, while others were scattered to the right and left. In these villages the caves or dwellings were constructed of stones and mud, ill com- pacted together, and of a round form, resembling that of a bee- hive, with a small hole for the entrance, which served at the same time to admit the air, and to afford a passage to the smoke. The roofs of these dwellings, in which, wretched as they were, the Arab cultivators were condemned to pass their lives, were formed of bushes, straw, and other similar materials, covered with mud. We took up our abode for the remainder of the day, and for the night, in the Latin convent at Rami 'a. The country in the vicini- ty of this convent, a plain of several miles in extent, is extremely fertile, and if it was well cultivated, would afford, independently of a rich pasturage for cattle, an abundance of grain; I might in- deed say of all that is necessary for the support of man. Within the town the houses are built of stone, and are provided with domes and terraces. Notwithstanding, at the time of our visit, many of them were, from the state of the country, unoccupied, they exhibited in general a much more respectable appearance than those of Jaffa. Prior to the war, there was in this place an exten- sive soap manufactory; but the building in which it had been car- ried on, having been since deserted, had fallen in ruins. We were informed on our arrival that Mahomed Pacha had reached Bam la the preceding evening. The choice of the Arabs, in erecting their buildings, and in forming themselves into a congregated society, appears to have been constantly directed to an elevated situation, in contradistinction to the ancient practice in Europe, where it has been remarked, that the vallies and low grounds have been generally selected for the site of the towns and villages. This remark particularly applies to the more northern parts of Europe, where in addition to the conveni- ence of procuring a better supply of water, a shelter from the in- clement winds was to be desired. In the burning clime of Asia, on the other hand, every breeze was to be courted ; and this mav perhaps explain the motive by which the Arabs were originally 1 I 8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, influenced in the position of their towns. That of Bamla is situ- ated on a rising ground, commanding a very extensive view of the level, open country, by which it is surrounded on all all sides. As we had brought with us our own bedding, and other conve- niencies, we were soon settled in the convent, which afforded us nothing but the bare walls ; and having procured provisions, the cook whom we had taken the precaution to bring with us, began his ope- rations, and soon supplied us with a good dinner. After having taken this refreshment, we went into the town, and saw the female inha- bitants busied in making a kind of cotton cloth for their garments. We next proceeded to the bazar, or market, which was but indif- ferently supplied with a few fruits and vegetables, such as dates, figs, lemons, cucumbers, &c. We observed several date-trees, with fruit on them, distributed among the buildings ; and their ap- pearance, thus blended as they were with the houses, was extreme- ly picturesque. Without the town we noticed a small pottery for the fabrication of vases to hold water. Bamla was anciently a city, but is now an open town onlv, under the government of the Pacha of Jerusalem and Gaza, Mahomed Pacha. In this place the minarets of the mosques differ very essentially from all those we had before noticed. It contains three convents for the reception of the pilgrims on their way to the holy city. It was painful to me to observe that the disease of the eyes, so common in these countries, prevailed verv generally, and that with great violence, among the poorer classes at Bamla. Both young and old were alike afflicted by blindness. This was not surpri- sing since it was easy to trace in their squalid and meagre counte- nances the manifest causes of disease, namely, the want of a good, nourishing diet, and the necessary clothing to encourage and keep up the excretions of the skin. The dress of the females- consisted of a blue cotton chemise only, resemblino- the frock of an English peasant, and reaching nearly to the ancles, with a broad belt, or girdle, fastened about the waist. The men were dressed in a simi- lar manner, but with a white instead of a blue chemise, and were for the greater part without shoes. In the evening we paid a visit to Mahomed Pacha, a great fa- vourite of the Vizier, and very useful to him in the country, as a collector of the tributes* His reception was of the most friendly kind; and he offered us every assistance on our route, promising to ,;end forward a messenger to give notice, at the places through which we were to pass, of our approach, together with such or SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I I 9 defs as might facilitate our views. After having taken the refresh- ments which were presented to us, we returned to the convent, where the General gave us notice to be in readiness to set forward on the following morning at day-break. We accordingly left Ramla at five in the morning of the 16th, and after a ride of three hours over the plain, came to an Arab village, named Caissa, where St. James was decapitated. In this village we saw the method employed by the Arabsio preserve theil' corn from pillage and fire. It consists in digging deep pits, similar to wells, in which the corn is stored up, as in a granary. Having breakfasted, we again set forward on our journey about nine o'clock, passing through a plain, near to which was a village, bal- led Latrun, said to have been once the residence of the kings of the Jews* To the left of the village the ruins of a building were pointed out to us, which we were told was anciently a palace. We shortly after entered on a rocky and almost impenetrable road, over a mountainous territory, which continued, with little variation, un- until our arrival at Jerusalem, a distance of twenty-five miles. The safety and comparative facility with which the horses made good their way through this difficult road, filled with rocks and precipices, were truly surprising; not the smallest accident occurred. At one o'clock we came to an Arab village, named St. Jerom, distant from Jerusalem three hours journey. We there made a halt of an hour and a half, and saw a lofty building, supported bv beautiful pillars, formerly a Christian church, said to have been built by the Empress Helena, but now converted into a receptacle for cattle; We traced on the walls the vestiges of several fine paintings of scriptural subjects; and afterwards entered an arched cavity un- derneath, in which, according to every probability, the dead had been deposited W T e left the village at half past two, and were met soon after by a party of priests belonging to the Greek convent at Jerusalem who were on their way to Ramla, in obedience to a mandate of Mahomed Pacha, but on what occasion we were not informed. On our approaching Jerusalem, we were met by the Mussclman or Turkish governor, and by the superior of the Latin convent, in which we were to take up our abode. They had come out with their attendants, to compliment us on our arrival, and conduct us to the city, which we reached at about half past five o'clock. For a considerable distance the road was occupied by great numbers of •ho inhabitants, who had come out to meet us; and the streets 120 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, were thronged in our passage through. So great was the curiosity which the arrival of Christian visitors had excited ! To the very gates of Jerusalem the land exhibited the same rocky and barren appearance it had assumed on our entering the mountainous territory. The city itself stands on an elevated rocky ground capable of yielding but little produce : in the vicinity, how- ever, we saw several spots, which the inhabitants had with great industry fertilized, by clearing away the stones, with which they had banked up the soil to prevent it from being washed away, and by resorting to every other expedient which could suggest it- self. The soil which is a reddish clay, wherever it is of any depth, is essentially of a good quality; consequently their laborious efforts had been rewarded, in these partial and chosen spots, bv an abundant produce of fruits, corn, and vegetables. The grapes which were .presented to us at our repasts, were uncommonly fine and large: at the season of the vintage the vineyards must have had a pleasing aspect in this land of rocks and mountains. Shortly after our arrival, the Governor paid a formal visit to the General and officers, in the course of which he tendered to us every possible assistance during our stay at Jerusalem. In company with three of my fellow travellers, I took up my abode in the Latin con- vent ; while the General, Mrs. Koehler, and the two gentlemen, established their residence at a house in the vicinity. On the following morning, after breakfast, we returned the Go- vernor's visit, and were entertained with coffee, sweetmeats, and other refreshments. From one of the windows of his house we had a very pleasing view of a Turkish mosque, built on the foundations of Solomon's temple. Christians are prohibited from entering this mosque, in consequence of a superstitious opinion entertained by the Turks, that if any one of them should set his foot on the con- secrated ground on which it stands, the Turkish empire would in- stantly be at an end. On the spot where the Governor resided, it is reported that Pon- tius Pilate dwelt; and it was there, according to traditional ac- counts, that Peter denied Christ'.* * To prevent a repetition of the words, « it is said; according to traditional ac- counts, &c.'" I shall in future give the reports relative to the passages of Scripture to which such and such spots in the Holy Land refer, as they were made to us, leaving to my readers the conclusions as to the greater or less probability of the accordance of the tradi- tions said to have been handed down, with the events they are intended to illustrate. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 121 Soon after our return to the General's apartment, the patriarch ef the Greek church, and two Armenian bishops, attended by se- veral priests, paid us a visit, and promised us every attention and kindness during our stay in Jerusalem. The patriarch informed us, that the six priests we had met on our route, and who were on their way to Ramla, had been constrained to undertake that jour- ney by Mahomed Pacha. As he could not explain to himself why they had been thus forced away, he appeared extremely anxious about them, and begged the General to interest himself in their be- half. In the inquiries he addressed to us, he was desirous to know which of the three cities, Jerusalem, Babylon, or Rome, was the most ancient. We were told by the priests of an extraordinary threat made by Bonaparte, namely, that should he ever obtain possession of Jeru- salem, he would plant the tree of liberty on the spot on which the Cross of Jesus stood; and would bury the first Frenc.Ii grenadier who should fall in the attack, in the tomb of our Saviour. From the terrace of the convent in which we were lodged we had a fine view of the Mount of Olives, of Mount Sion, and indeed of every part of the city, the extent of which has been so much diminished in modern times, that the circumference is reckoned not to exceed four English miles. The walls and habitations are in ex- cellent repair ; and the former are provided with several small square towers. Near the entrance gate is a castle denominated David's tower, the stones in the inferior part of which are very massive, and apparently of great antiquity. About two o'clock we went to the church called the Church of the Sepulchre, as being built over the holy sepulchre, in company with the superior of our convent, with whom, I should observe, we had made an arrangement to visit Bethlehem on the following morning. Escorted by several of the reverend fathers, we passed through a solemn and grand entrance, into a lofty and capacious building (somewhat less than an hundred paces long, and not more than sixty wide), supported by several very large marble pillars of the Corinthian order, and the dome of which was built of the ce- dar of Lebanon. Preparations having been made for our visit to this sanctuary, it was lighted up with more than usual splendour, and had a very stt iking and awful effect. In the centre of the building is the holy sepulchre, which is now cased over with mar- ble tor its better preservation. But for this precaution, indeed, ic ( 16 ) 122 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY? Would ere this have been broken into fragments, which the pil- grims would have canied off as so many precious relics. The se- pulchre we are told, was at first a cave hewn in the rock under ground; but the rock having been since cut away in every direction, •it appears now in the form of a grotto above ground. In bestow- ing on it a close inspection, we met with the stone on which they told us the angel was seated when Mary sought the body of Jesus. This stone had been removed from the entrance. The small build- ing, or chapel, in which the sepulchre is enclosed, was lighted by several large and handsome lamps, a certain number of which are always kept burning. We were next conducted to all the interest- ing places which respected our Saviour previously to his death : such as the spot where he was confined before his trial and con- demnation; that where he was scourged, and the crown of thorns placed on his head ; that where he was nailed to the cross, &c. We saw the fissure in the rock which was rent by the earthquake at the time he gave up the ghost, together with the place where the soldiers cast lots for his garments, and the spot where his body was embalmed. The whole of this very extensive building, in which the Greeks, Lathis, Armenians, and Copts, have each respectively a chapel, stands on Mount Calvary. We visited each of these chapels. Near to that which was built by St. Helena, the mother of Constantinc the Great, in commemoration of the finding of the Cross on which our Saviour was crucified, we saw the cavern which was formerly the grand reservoir of water that contained the Cross. In the mid- dle of the Greek chapel stands a marble basin fixed on the ground, which the Greek priests told us was not only placed in the centre of the pile g( buildings, but in the centre of the universe. This beau- tiful chapel is built of yellow and white marble ; and several of the columns are of verd antique. We next proceeded to the chapel where Mary visited Jesus, the pavement of which is of beautiful marble, inlaid and ornamented with much taste. In the course of our inquiries, we saw the tomb of Baldwin, governor of Jerusa- lem, who was killed during the crusades. The beauty and grandeur of these buildings do great credit to the age in which they were executed. Over the gate which led us to the elegant structure, erected by the order of St. Helena, in which the holy sepulchre, and the memorable spots I have noticed above, are enclosed, we>saw the vestiges of several pieces of fine sculp- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 2J ture, together with a considerable number of marble and gra- nite columns, of the Corinthian order, and other architectural de- corations. The Greek and Armenian priests entertained us with coffee and sherbet in their respective chapels. They told us that after the French had landed in Egypt, the Turks had, on a plea of suspi- cion that the monks in general were not entire strangers to the plans and intentions of the enemy, searched their monasteries for arms, papers, and other concealed effects, and had obliged them to seek refuge in the building over the holy sepulchre. They had there threatened to bring cannon against them, and put them to death, in case they should refuse to open the door of the building, and surrender themselves. In this alarming crisis they were providen- tially saved by a Turkish santon, or fanatic, who took his station on an elevated part of the city, and there harangued the Mussul- meri in behalf of the ministers of the Christian Gospel, reminding them that, having searched their monasteries, they had neither found arms nor any other object which could lead to suspicion, and recommending to them to desist, and permit the unfortunate priests to return to their convents. The effect of this exhortation was, that the multitude laid aside their sanguinary pursuit, and the monks were permitted to return quietly to their homes. They were not ungrateful for their deliverance, but collected a considera- ble sum of money for the santon, which he with great delicacy re- fused. On our return we dined at the convent with the holy fathers, and proceeded afterwards to the General's lodging, where the visit of the Mufti, who came thither to pay his respects, was shortly after announced. This personage, who seemed to carry terror and dis- may in his countenance, told us, that it was impossible Jerusalem should ever be taken, as there were seventy thousand prophets, on the other side of the Dead Sea, ready to come forward for its pro- tection and defence. He also declared to us, that it was recorded in the sacred writings, that the English and Turks had been friends for more than a thousand years. He was not only supreme of the church, but held the office of cadi, or judge. On his departure we returned the visits of the Greek and Arme- nian clergy. The Armenian church, a fine and elegant structure, was ornamented by several good sciiptural paintings. The fathers pointed out to us the spot where the head of St. James was depo- sited, after he had been decapitated at Caissa, 124 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, We rose at five in the morning of the 18th, and went to the chapel, where mass was performing. We breakfasted shortly after, and at seven o'clock left Jerusalem on our way to Bethlehem, ac-. companied by the superior and several of the monks belonging to the Latin convent, in which we had taken up our residence. On our quitting the city, we passed Mount Sion, on which the walls of the city are partly built, and which is separated by a valley from the hill where Judas Iscariot sold Jesus for thirty pieces of mo- ney. The road winds over a part of this hill. After an hour's journey, we reached a convent built by St. Helena, from whence we had a view of Bethlehem, the road leading to which is extreme- ly rocky? and of a very dreary appearance. On approaching, the Dead Sea was in our view. Bethlehem stands on a lofty moun- tain, the soil of which abounds in chalk and marl. The inhabi- tants came out to welcome us on the road ; and this was done by the women, by a most hideous shrieking noise, accompanied by gestures and distortions, which it would be difficult to describe. On cur passage through the streets, the houses ■were thronged with people. As we approached the convent, in which we were received with great hospitality, we passed beneath the ruins of an ancient gate- way, and afterwards entered a lofty building, erected by St. Helena, anciently styled the temple, but now the convent, of St. Catha- rine. It is ornamented with at least fifty lofty and beautiful columns of marble, of the Corinthian order; and has on its walls there- mains of several fine paintings m fresco of scriptural subjects, re- presenting the apostles, patriarchs, &c. The beauty and symmetry of the temple have been in some measure destroyed by a portion of it, which they have convened into a chapel, having been di- vided off by the Geeks, who received permission from the Turks to do so, on their consenting to pay an annual contribution. After having partaken of an excellent breakfast, provided by the superior of the convent, we went to see the three surprising basins built by Solomon, near to which he is said to. have spent much of his time. The pools, or basins of Solomon, are three in number, and situ- ated in a sloping hollow of the mountain, one above another; so that the waters of the uppermost descend into the second, and those of the second to the third. Their figure is quadrangular. The breadth is nearly the same in all, amounting to between eighty and ninety paces, in their length they differ; the first being about on? SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 125 hundred and sixty paces long, the second two hundred, and the third two hundred and twenty. The depth of each is considerable. They are lined with stone, plaistered, and in a tolerable state of re- pair. They contained, however, but little water when I visited them. The monks, by whom we were accompanied, considered these pools, or basins, as one of the greatest antiquities in the country. They are distant two hours journey from Bethlehem; and the road which leads to them, consisting entirely of rocks, is almost im- practicable. These basons supplied the inhabitants of Bethlehem and Jerusalem, with water, by means of acqueducts, which ap- peared however at the time of our visit, to be somewhat out of re- pair. In the vicinity of the pools we noticed a Turkish fort; and, not far from it, the source or spring, by which the basins are sup- plied with water, as well as by the rains which occasionally fall upon the neighbouring mountains, during the winter season. In returning we passed through a valley, in which was a garden, entitled the garden of Solomon. Its irrigation having been favour- ed by the water which at times issues from the rocks above into the valley, the vegetables it contained had a very promising appearance. We saw in the valley the ruin also of a building, which, we were told, had been inhabited by Solomon's concubines. On approaching Bethlehem, the General made a sketch of the town ; and we found, on our arrival, a sumptuous dinner prepared for us at the convent. After this repast, we visited the birth-place of our Saviour, a deep cavern hewn out of the solid rock, and lighted up by a considerable number of lamps, in which the manger was as well as every other interesting particular, pointed out to us. The manger was, for the same reason as the sepulchre, cased over with marble, to prevent the pilgrims from mutilating it, and carry- ing off with them fragments of such precious relics. We were af- terwards conducted to a variety of memorable spots, and, among them, to the deep and immensely large cistern into which the bodies of the infants, murdered by the command of Herod, were thrown. Near to this cistern the tomb of St. Jerome was situated. The convent of St. Catharine, in which at one time twenty monks resided, but the number of whom was now reduced to eight, and the Greek and Armenian convents, being all of them within the same walls and enclosure, so as to constitute one large and en- tire building only, all the ever memorable places within Bethlehem 126 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, which the sacred writings have recorded, are in this way built over and preserved. The inhabitants of Bethlehem consist, for the greater part, of Greeks, Armenians, and Arabs converted to Christianity. Among its population but few Turks are to be found. The dress of the men, like that of the neighbouring peasants, is extremely simple, and consists of a long white chemise, or frock, with a girdle fast- ened round the waist. Very few of the poorer sort, whether males or females, wear shoes. The women are dressed in a blue che- mise, with a cotton belt or girdle, and cover the head with a long white veil, which flows looselv down the back. Their complexion is very dark, approaching almost to black. They are very labori- ous, and submit to every description of drudgery. They are be- trothed as soon as they come into the world; and marry at the ear- ly age of twelve vears. Bethlehem standing on an eminence, and on a chalky soil, is justly considered by the inhabitants as possessing a very salubrious air; in proof of which, I observed but few among them who had a sickly appearance. There were indeed some cases of ophthalmia, but very rare. The sides of the mountain on which this town is situated were, as well as the summit, interspersed with fine vine- yards, banked in with stones, which must have cost a prodigious labour to the cultivators. The grapes they yielded were remarkably large, and finely flavoured. In addition to these we saw figs, pome- granates, and an abundance of olives, on which fruits the inhabi- tants, in a great measure, subsist. In the vallies some corn is pro- duced; and the bread made from it is of an excellent quality. The dews, which fall in great abundance, are highly favourable to the vegetation in general. As we had to return in the afternoon, the visits of the Greek and Armenian patriarchs, it was somewhat late before we quitted Beth' lehem, insomuch that we did not reach our convent at Jerusalem until seven in the evening. I brought away with me from the former of these places, several chaplets, or strings of beads, made from a fruit brought from Mecca, dyed of a red colour, and cros- ses, and other trinkets made from a pearl oyster, which the inhabi- tants procure from the Red Sea, and which they manufacture into these curious articles with ereat address. On the 1 9 th at eleven in the morning, we left the convent at Jerusalem, on our way to the Mount of' Gliies, situated at about a mile's distance from the walls of the city. Our attention was then SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C I2f directed to the sepulchres of the kings, which the monks consider as the third wonder in that part of the world. To inspect them, we entered at the east side, through an opening cut out of the solid rock, which brought us into a spacious court of about forty paces square, cut down into the rock, with which it is encompassed in- stead of walls. On the south side of this court there is a portico, nine paces long, and about four broad, in like manner hewn out of the natural rock. It has a kind of architrave running along its front, and although time has certainly deprived it of some of its beauties, yet it still exhibits the remains of excellent sculpture of flowers, fruits, &c. On the left hand within this portico, we entered a small aperture upon our knees and hands ; the passage was become difficult on account of the accumulation of rubbish collected at its mouth. We reached at the commencement a large square chamber, cut with great neatness and exactness out of the solid rock. From this chamber we entered a second, which led to several more, five or six in all, one within the other, nearly of the same description as the first, except that in the interior chambers there were niches, or se- pulchres for the reception of the dead. Each of these caverns, or chambers had niches for four, six, or eight bodies. The mutilated portions of the sarcophagi, ornamented with fine sculpture, lay scattered upon the ground as well as the fragments of the stone doors by which these chambers had been anciently closed. The lid of one of the sarcophagi, seven feet in length, having on it grapes, leaves, acorns and various other devices, very beautifully sculptured, was in an entire state. A door of one of the chambers was still hanging. It consisted of a mass of solid sto.ne, resembling the rock itself, of about six inches in thickness, but in size less than an ordinary door. It turned upon two hinges, contrived in the manner of axles. These hinges were of the same entire piece of stone with the door, and were re- ceived into two holes of the immoveable rock, one at the top, the other at the bottom. In some of these chambers the dead bodies were laid upon bench- es of stone ; others had sepulchres cut in the form of ovens. In the different chambers which I entered, I imagine from fortv to fifty bodies might have been deposited. Whether the kings of Israel or of Judah, or any other kings were the constructors of them, they have certainly been contrived with infinite ingenuitv, and completed with immense labour. 128 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Having withdrawn from these interesting mausolei, or caverns we proceeded to the sepulchres of the Virgin Mary, of her mo- ther, and of Joseph, all of them situated in the valley of Jehosha- phat, and over which was erected a large stone building, re-con- structed by the Armenians, about forty years before. It was in the vicinity of this spot that St. Stephen was stoned. To reach the sepulchres, which were in the inferior part of a cavern, dug from the solid rock, we had to descend a flight of forty-eio-ht steps. The Virgin's sepulchre was lighted by lamps, which were constant- ly kept burning at the joint expense of the Greeks, Armenians, and Copts. I brought away with me several small pieces of the rock, cut in squares, which the inhabitants take care to provide for the gratification of the curious traveller. Contiguous to the build- ing erected over the sepulchres, we entered a cave, in which our Saviour is said to have sweated blood. The monks by whom we were accompanied, pointed out to us several large and apparently ancient olive-trees, which, they assured us, were in existence in the time of our Saviour, and which stood in the front of the buildinp-. We did not presume to question their erudition on this point of na- tural history; but could not help admiring the attention they be- stowed on them, in encompassing their roots by stones, and filling up the cavities of their decayed trunks with the same materials, for their better preservation. On our quitting this spot we went to the Mount of Olives, a very- steep hill, on the east side of Jerusalem, the valley of Jehoshaphat lying between the mount and the city. On our reaching its summit, we were conducted to a small circular building, in which the reve- rend fathers pointed out to us the impression of our Saviour's foot in a stone, when he ascended into heaven. The Christian inhabi- tants when they visit the Mount of Olives, do not content them- selves with saluting this cavity in the stone, but also rub on it the fragments of marble, taken from the rock beneath, at the sepul- chre of the blessed Virgin. The small building erected over the place of ascension is contiguous to a Turkish mosque, and is in the possession of the Turks, who derive a profit from showing its con- tents; and who also subject the Christians to an annual contribution for a permission to officiate within it, according to their ritual, on Ascension-day. At the distance of about an hundred yards from the mosque is the spot where the angel appeared to Jesus, warning him to ascend, as his place was not on earth, but above; and where the apostles were assembled at the moment of his ascension. From SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 29 the mosque itself We had a line and commanding view of Jerusalem^ Mount Sion, and the Dead Sea. In descending the mountain, and in passing afterwards through the valley of Jehushapliat, we were gratified by the view of several memorable spots. We saw, among others, the tombs of Absalom and Zeehariah ; and visited the place where the apostles conceal- ed themselves when Jesus was led by. We were next conducted to the well of St. Barb, at the foot of Mount Sion, where the vest- ments of Jesus ware washed; and at an inconsiderable distance from it, inspected the wells of JSiefiemiah. On the leaving the valley of Jehoshaphat, we passed to the right of the place where the body of the prophet Isaiah was severed into two parts. In ascending Mount SioH, we saw, on the acclivity of an opposite mountain, a building erected on the spot where Judas Iscariot betrayed Jesus for thirty pieces of silver. On reaching the summit of the mount, a church and convent, belonp-mp- to the Armenians, were pointed out to us, situated at a small distance from the entrance gate leading to the back part of the city, it was there, the monks informed us, that the cock crew when Pe- ter denied Christ. Without the city walls, and on Mount Sion, there is a Turkish mosque standing on the ground where King David was buried, and where our Saviour instituted the Lord's supper. We returned to Jerusalem, and having partaken of a good din- ner at the convent, paid an evening's visit to the Mufti, who re- ceived us with much hospitality and politeness, and who expressed liis wish that we would spend another day in the holy city, in order that he might entertain us in a suitable manner. We had, howe- ver, made our arrangements to set out on the following morning, on our return to Jajj'a. Having accordingly made an early breakfast at the convent, we left Jerusalem at eight in the morning of the 20th. Our plan was, to halt at St. Jerome in the evening; to proceed to Ramla on the following dav; and to reach Jaffa en the third. On our way to the village of St. John, distant three hours journey from Jerusa- (.".'//, a line building, styled the convent of St. Helena, was point- ed out to us, as having been built by that empress on the spot whence the timber was taken for our Saviour's Cross. In the vil- lage itself, the birth -place of St. John the Jiuptist, there is also a went, We arrived there at eleven o'clock, and having entered ( '7 ) I JO TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, the church, were directed to the spot where St. John was borny and which is constantly lighted up by lamps. The church is very neatly decorated, and is ornamented by several good pictures. The inhabitants of St. John are a mixture of Turks and Arabs, the former of whom are by far the most numerous. They were, at the time of cur visit, as well as two other neighbouring villages, in a hostile state to Mahomed Pacha, who, not content with having levied the customary annual avanias, or tributes, had endeavoured to exact heavy contributions, which they had neither the will nor the capacity to pay. They had accordingly assembled, and had sworn, laying their swords across, which with them adds great solemnity to the protestation, that they would prefer death to a sub- mission to any demand which should exceed the customary amount of their contributions. In the vicinity of this village there are se- veral fine vineyards, and other spots in excellent cultivation. After having taken the necessary refreshments, we quitted St. John at two in the afternoon, on our way to St. Jerome; on our approaching which place we were met bv the Arab sheick, and a considerable number of his people, who had come out to welcome us, and pay their respects. On our arrival, at half past four o'clock, we were conducted to a house which had been prepared for our re- ception ; and, having ? brought with us cold provisions, we soon found ourselves at our ease. Shortly after we had reached the village, the inhabitants, who were equally refractory with these of St. John, were thrown into great confusion and alarm by the rumour that the troops of Maho- med Pacha were approaching. Instantly both men and women fled to an adjoining post, situated on a lofty mountain, very diffi- cult of access, and equally hazardous to an enemy who should me- ditate an attack. They there waited further intelligence respecting the advances of the redoubted Pacha. On our rising at four in the morning of the 2 1st, there was a very considerable fall of dew, which, in this country, where the rains occur so seldom, is in a manner indispensable to the vegetation. We were told at Jerusalem that rain had not fallen there during nine months. The vineyards about St. Jerome, cultivated in terraces, or, in other words, banked in with stones to prevent, the escape of the soil and moisture, .had a very promising appearance. We left that place about seven o'clock, to proceed to Kamla, and took a route over the mountains, infinitely more agreeable and commodious to the SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. r 3 I .-traveller than that by which we had passed on our way to Jerusa- lem. We arrived about eleven o'clock at the village of Caissa, where we had breakfasted when we first proceeded on our journey, the day after our departure from Jaffa ; and, having halted to take refreshments, pursued our way to Pamla, which we reached at two in the afternoon, fixing our residence, as before, at the Latin convent. Ramla,) the ancient Arimathea of the sacred writings, is well known as the residence of Joseph, . the rich man and disciple, who went to Pontius Pilate to beg the body of Jesus, which having obtained, he, in concert with Nicodemus, took it down, and wrap- ped it in linen clothes, with spices, after the manner of the Jews', depositing it in a sepulchre, hewn out of the rock, which had been prepared for himself. The view of the town, from the side at which we entered on this latter occasion, was extremely pictures- que and beautiful. It is situated on the confine of a rich and ex- tensive plain, the luxuriant soil of which is capable of producing whatever is essential to the subsistence of man. We saw several plantations of the dourra, or Indian corn, together with vine- yards, gardens containing fruits and vegetables, and fields of cot- ton. The numerous olive-trees without the town, and the date- trees interspersed between the buildings, furnished a most agreea- ble picture. The pavement of the streets of Ramla is intermixed with por- tions of marble ; and the houses being partly built of that material, which is here of a yellowish cast, and partly of stone, with the addition of domes and terraces, have a very neat and agreeable ap- pearance when viewed from an elevaied situation. We were told by the reverend fathers belonging to our convent, that the mountain which is contiguous to the Dead S.ea, exudes a bituminous matter, with which the sea itself is occasionally over- spread. They produced a specimen of this substance, which had the appearance of common pitch. I do not wish to accuse them of dealing in the marvellous, but they surprised us not a little, when, in speaking of the noxious quality of the air in the vicinity of the Dead Sea, thev asserted, that notwithstanding: the fruits and vegetables which grew there were very fine in appearance, they were destitute of all flavour; and that the oranges in particular, in- stead of containing a pleasant and refreshing juice, were filled with a cineritious matter. The superior assured us, that he had sent se- veral of these oranges to Europe as a curiosity. \ iyi TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Several fine refreshing showers having fallen during the night, we had a very cool and agreeable ride from Jiamla, which we left at eight in the morning of the 22d, and reached the camp at Jaffa about eleven o'clock. On our return from Jerusalem, we fell in with the Greek priests, whom I have already mentioned as having been on their way to Iiamla, to obey a requisition of Mahomed Paeha, with whom, we were now told, they had purchased their peace, by consenting to pay a fine of five hundred purses, each containing the same num- ber of piastres. This reconciliation having been efFerted, they were joyfully returning to the Holy City, Our excursion thither was attended by a singular circumstance, namely, that our party, comprehending the escort and attendants, Was made up of eight different nations, English, Spaniards, Ita- lians, Greeks, Armenians, Turks, Copts, and Arabs. I cannot conclude this chapter better than by giving the follow- ing translation of a written account of Jerusalem, Bethlehem, and the other interesting places in the Holy Land, presented to us by the reverend fathers of the Latin convent at Jerusalem. It may he considered, not merely as a guide to the devout pilgrim, for whose information, and for that of the curious traveller, it appears to have been drawn up- but as an interesting topographical sketch of rhe countries which embrace the most remarkable objects record- ed in the sacred Writing's. A TRXJE DESCRIPTION OF THE HOLY PLACES LN JERUSALEM, ANlj OF THOSE WHICH ARE LIKEWISE USUALLY VISITED BY THE DEVOUT PILGRIMS IX JUDEA, GALILEE, &C. IN JERUSALEM. |N entering the church of the Holy Sepulchre, likewise called St. Helen's church, from having been built by the Empress Helen, the stone of unction presents itself, where our Saviour was embalmed and anointed hv Joseph and Niecdemus; to the riffht of SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. . 1 33 which is the ascent to Mount Calvary, by twelve steps, where is seen the hole in which the Cross was placed, and near it a cleft in the mountain, occasioned by the earthquake after our Saviour's death, likewise the place of crucifixion. This last belongs to the Catholics. The schismatic Greeks robbed us of die bole of the Cross by means of money. From Mount Calvary you descend to the holy sepulchre of our Lord* where forty-four lamps are burning, fourteen of which are ours, the rest belong to the Greeks, Armenians, and Copts, but these have no dominion whatever over the sepulchre itself. Its length is nine spans, its breadth four, and its height about three and a half. Before the entrance to it is the Angelas Ciuipel, a little lar- ger than the sepulchre. In the middle of it is a stone, little more than a span high, and about nine spans in circumference. On this stone sat the angel, who after the resurrection of our Lord, appear- ed to the holy women, saying to them — " Do ye seek Jesus who f* has been crucified? He is not here but is risen." On leaving this chapel, at the distance of a few paces, is seen the place where the Lord, after being risen, was seen by Mary Magdalen, in the dress of a gardener ; and, a few paces further, the spot where that peni- tent stood. You then enter our church, where our Saviour made his first appearance to his holy mother, after the resurrection. On the right of the great altar (in which our Lord is preserved under the sacramental form J is a hollow place, fastened up with an iron grating, within which is part of the column to which he was bound and scourged. On the left is part of .the holy cross shut up in the same manner. At the foot of the altar is seen the place where one of the three crosses was miraculously discovered by St. Helen, per- haps the cross of the Saviour. Leaving our church, you visit the prison where our Saviour was bound before he suffered the death of the cross: this place belongs to the Greeks. A few steps from it is the chapel of St. Longinus, the soldier who, after having pierced the sacred side of our Saviour, wept on account of his sins in this place, which likewise belongs to the Greeks. A ftw steps further is the place where the soldiers went to divide the garments of the Redeemer, and -which belongs to the Arnuiiians. A few steps from this is the pillar of reproaches, belonging to the Greeks. From thence you descend twenty-nine steps, and you sec the chapel of $f. Helen, and the place where she stood when they dug for the holy cross. Theft descending thirteen other steps, you see the place where the cross was found. This place belongs to us, but the elm- 134 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, pel of St. Helen was, as well as the other places, stolen from us by the Armenians. St. Helen lived eighty years : she was buried in one of the churches of Rome. Under the holy Mount Calvary is the Chapel of Adam, where, as authors say, the head of Adam was buried by Shem the son of Noah, after the deluge. This belongs to the Greeks. At a little distance from it, is the place where the holy women stood whilst our Saviour was crucified, and likewise the place where they sat down. Behind the holy sepulchre is the monument of Joseph of Arimathea, who earnestly requested of Pilate the holy body of •Jesus: this belongs to the Armenians. Near the door of the church you ascend eleven steps, and come to the chapel of St. Mary of Calvary, where the blessed Virgin stood with St. John the Evangelist, when the Jews crucified our Saviour, and where we perform mass every day. In the road lead- ing to the garden of Gethsemane, called the Mournful Way, are seen the place where the Lord fell under the weight of the cross, which he carried on his shoulders ; the palace of Pilate, within which is the tribunal where the Saviour was scourged, and given into the hands of the Jews to be crucified ; and also the place where they bound him to the column, and crowned him with a crown of thorns, saying to him "Hail! King of the Jews." Without is likewise the place where he was scourged ; together with the arch where Pilate shewed him to the people, saying " Behold the man." In the court-yard of the palace is the place where the soldiers spoil- ed him of the purple, and dressed him again in his own garments, giving him the cross to carry. At a short distance from the arch before-mentioned, is the place where the Virgin Mary met her son. Pursuing the road to Geth- semane, you meet with a mosque near the gate of St. Stephen, where the Virgin Mary was born. Without the gate is the place where St. Stephen was stoned by the Jews, and near to it, the cis- tern, into which they say his body was thrown. The church of the Virgin Mary is next seen. Having descended forty-eight steps, you view the altar or sepulchre, whence she was taken up into hea- ven bv the angels. About ninety years ago this was taken away from us by the Greeks. Within the church are the tombs of St. Ann, St. Joseph, and St- Ja)nes. At a short distance from the church is the grotto, in which our Saviour sweated blood. Near the grotto is the garden in which he was taken. In this garden are rght olive-trees, which according to tradition, were there in [ SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 35 time of our Saviour : they bear fruit, and are wonderfully preser- ved. At the bottom oi a small mount is the place where our Sa- viour parted from the eight apostles to pray, and near it the place where he left the other three, viz. Peter, James, and John his brother. A few steps farther is the place where the Virgin Mary prayed for St. Stephen, whilst the Jews stoned him. Leaving the garden you go to the torrent of Cedron, near which our Saviour fell when he was bound by the Jews. Moving onward, vou see the tomb of Jehoshaphat, king of Judah, curiously exca- vated in a rock, and also the tomb of Absalom son of David, which he himself caused to be excavated, in order that he might' be buried there, and which is made in the form of a tower. Ascend- ing a little, you see the place where St. James the Less hid him- self after our Saviour was taken ; likewise the tomb of Zechariah the prophet and martyr, slain by the Jews. All these places are on the left of the torrent of Cedron. Not far off is the town, or village, commonly called Slide ; and about a mile from it, a fountain, called Mary's fountain, because it is known from tradition, that the holy Virgin washed in it the clothes of her child. Near this is a wall of the ancient church of the pool of Siloe, in which our Saviour pur the blind man, in order that he might wash himself, and recover his sight. Not far from this is a tree where the prophet Isaiah was severed in two parts: likewise the we'll of Nehemiah, in which by- God's permission, the 'holy fire remained hidden for seventy years, that is, during the time when the Israelites were carried into Per- sia, in the reign of Nebuchadnezzar king of the Persians. At ihc expiration of the seventy years, the priest Nehemiah caused a search to be made for the holy fire, and found in place of it, water, which however, by divine power, was reconverted into fire. On the holy Mount of Olives, where our Saviour ascended into heaven, are seen the impressions of his feet. The church built there by St. Helen is now a mosque. A mile from this is the place called Men of Galilee, because after the ascension, the angels appeared here to the disciples, oppressed with grief, saying unto them, " Men of Galilee, why stand ye looking up to heaven?" The following places are likewise seen on the Mount of Olives, viz. the place where the Saviour casting his eyes towards Jerusalem, wept tor it; where the apostles composed the creed; where the Saviour prayed, and taught the disciples the pater nrs'er; the tombs of the prophets; the place where Christ foretold the destmctionof Jerusa- !-6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, lem, which is marked by a broken column, and an olive-tree; the cottage of St. Pelasgia, the penitent, who came to Aniioch in the dies:, of a man, and taking the name of Pelasgius, led ■ there a monastic life. About half a mile from Jerusalem, near the tombs of the kings of the Jews, towards Siloe, is seen the execrable place where the sacrilegious Judas, after having sold Jesus, hanged himself. Two miles from the Mount of Olives, stands Bcthana, where are the vestiges of the house of Mary Magdalene and Martha, and the tomb where Lazarus their brother was buried and raised to lite agaki. Not far from this place is Beth/age, upon a hill, where, by the desire of our Saviour, the apostles brought him an ass, upon which he gloriously entered Jerusalem, on Palm-day, by the gol- den gate, where there is now a wall. On Mount Sion, is seen the cenaculum, or supper-room, where the Holy Ghost descended upon the apostles; where the Saviour appeared to them after the resurrection, and washed their feet; and where he also appeared to St. Thomas. The place where St. Mat- thias was elected an apostle, in the room of Judas, and the tomb of David who lived seventy years and six months, are also to be seen there. At a short distance from Mount Sion is the house where the Virgin Mary lived neatly twenty-four years after her son's ascen- sion, and where, according to tradition, she died. Near this is the chapel of St. John the Evangelist. Entering at the gate called Ster- guillina, you come to a little grotto, where Peter wept, after ha- ving denied Christ. Farther on is the. house of Anna, the high- priest, where Jesus was led bound, and where the ungrateful Mal- co, servant of the high-priest, who had been healed but a little be- fore, gave the Saviour a blow: this place belongs to the Armeni- ans. Near it is seen an olive-tree, to which Christ was bound, and the palace of Caiphas, the high-priest. There St. Helen built a church, and the Armenians the convent which they now oc- cupy. In a corner of the church, on the right of the great altar, h the prison where Christ remained a whole night. Near the door of the church, on the right, under a portico, is the place where the maid said to Peter, " and this man was likewise with him," and the place where Peter thrice denied Christ, on which there is a tree, as a mark of it. There is likewise a place called the cock crow* because the cock crowed on that spot, and re- minded Peter of the denial. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C» 137 * Not far from Jerusalem is a place called the grotto of Jere- miah, where that prophet wrote the Lamentations of the Holy week; and, a little farther, the tombs of the kings, twenty-two in number. BETHLEHEM. Here are seen the following places, viz. where Christ was born » the manger in which he was laid, and the place where he was adored by the Magi. The grotto of St. Joseph, where he remain- ed when the Virgin was delivered; the place where the Innocents were slain by order of Herod; the sepulchre of St. Gerolamo, St. Paula, and St. Eustochia her daughter; the birth-place of our Sa- viour, which has been forty or fifty years in the power of the Greeks, who took it away from us by means of a firman of the Grand Seignor, procured by money; and the church of St. Catha- rine, built by St. Helen. Without Bethlehem, at a little distance, is the grotto of the milk of the Virgin Mary, and a few steps far- ther, the house of St. Joseph. About two miles farther is the church of the angels; in which place the birth of our Saviour was announ- ced to the shepherds by the angels, singing " Glory to God in the highest." About six miles from Bethlehem, is the place where was situated the city of Tecua, built by Rehoboam, son of Solo- mon ; in this city lived the holy prophet Amos. Towards the Dead Sea, six miles from Bethlehem, is the place where were the vines of Engaddi, so much praised in the psalms; and a few step-; from thence, is the place where David hid himself from the perse- cution of Saul. Four miles distant is the monastery of St. Sabba, in possession of the Greeks. This was built by the Emperor Jus- tinian, and in it died St. Sabba, whose body was conveyed to Venice. In this convent are the several rooms of St. John of Da- mascus, of St. Eutimius, and St. Civillus. Returning from the convent of St. Sabba, you go to the hortus conclusus, to the three pools of Solomon, See. ST. JOHN IN THE MOUNTAIN. The place where John the Baptist was born, and the house of St. Elizabeth, where the Virgin Mary went to visit her, and com- posed the psalm " Magnificat," (my soul doth magnify the Lord, £cc.) are here to be seen. In the way you meet with a convent be- longing to the Greeks, called the Holy Cross, built by St. Helen, ( 18 ) Ij8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, in the place where the wood was cut to make the Cross of our Saviour. About four miles from St. John, is the desert of John the Bap- tist — here is a cave where he and his mother St. Elizabeth, hid themselves by order of God, to avoid the cruelty of Herod, who sought to kill him, eight months after his birth. In the same place is seen the stone upon which St. John slept a little at night ; and at a little distance is the sepulchre of St. Elizabeth, his mother, who died there four years after his birth, and was buried by the hands of angels. NAZARETH. Here is to be seen the place where St. Gabriel appeared to the holy Virgin, saluting her, saying Ave Maria, and announcing the Incarnation. To go into tiie holy grotto fifteen steps are to be descended. In this grotto are seen two pillars, scarcely two steps from each other, one called Mary's pillar, the other the Angel's, made by St. Helen, according to tradition. That which is called the pillar of the Vir- gin Mary, stands without support, being raised from the ground about live spans. It is piously believed that there the Virgin Mary stood when she was saluted by the angel Gabriel. The other, which stands firmly supported, is in the place where the angel stood when he said to the Virgin, slve Maria. In this grotto there are two altars, one called the altar of the Incarnation; the other, which is contiguous to it, and the five altars in the great church, were built by St. Helen. In the town, at a little distance from the con- vent, is seen the house of 5/. Joseph, almost destroyed, in which he, with his reputed son, carried on the trade of carpenter. This house is now occupied by the Turks. A few steps farther is seen the Jew's synagogue, in which the Saviour preached to the Pha- risees, saying, " Verily I say unto vou, no prophet is received in " his own country," &c. At a short distance is the fountain of the Virgin Mary and her son, so called, because they both went to that fountain to get water. In its vicinity is a church of the Greeks; and about a mile farther is seen, on an eminence, the Ta- ble of Christ, that is a stone, upon which he and his disciples eat. Towards the south is a mount, called the Mount of the Virgin's Fear, because the Virgin Mary here understood, that the men of Nazareth having driven her son from the synagogue in which he had preached, intended to conduct him to another mountain, to SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. IJ9 precipitate him from it: here was formerly a monastery of monks. About an hour's distance from Nazareth is the mountain alluded to, from which they intended to throw Christ, and which is on that account called the Precipice of Christ. From thence, by a very bad road, over hills, as you go to Jaffa, lies the country of Zebedee, and his sons, James the Great, and John the Evange- list. The church is destroyed; it is about three miles from Naza- reth. Nazareth is about ninety miles from Jerusalem by land, and about twenty-four from Acre. From Nazareth you go to the sea of Tiberias; and first presents itself the city of Cana in Galilee, about four miles from Nazareth. In this place it was that Jesus converted the water into wine; and it is said to have been the country of the apostles Bartholomew, Simon the Canaanite, and St. Matthew. From this place you go to the sepulchre of the prophet Jonas, on a mountain two or three miles from the road, and about six miles from Nazareth. About twelve miles further, passing through a large plain, you go to the place called the Table of Christ, where, with seven loaves and two fishes, he satisfied four thousand persons. At a little distance is the Mount of Blessings, where the Saviour declared the eight bles- sings — " Blessed are the poor in spirit," &c. On the top of the mount, ruins are yet to be seen. About six miles farther is another mount, from which is seen the city of Tiberias, surrounded by a wall. In this place, Jesus Christ, after being risen from the dead, constituted Peter chief of the apostles, head and master of the world. The Turks have destroyed this place. Tiberias is distant from Nazareth about twenty-four miles. A little way far- ther, near the Sea of Galilee, is the famous city of Capernaum, where our Saviour preached for the first time the doctrine of the most august Eucharist ; where he cured the paralytic ; where St. Matthew, standing at the " receipt of custom," was called by him, and followed him ; and where he cured the Centurion. All the places here described are true and genuine, and the devout pilgrim will be able by this description to form an idea of them so as not to forget them — Praise to God. Jerusalem, :'2'\ October, 1300. 140 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, CHAPTER X. Irregularities in the Turkish camp. Governor of Damascus beheaded. Me- morial delivered to the Grand Vizier on the state of the camp. Desertion of Turkish chiefs and soldiers. Tents plundered by Arabs. Plague among the. Mamelukes and Albanians. Mutiny of the janissaries. Ceremonies on pay- ing them their arrears. Alarms excited by reports from El-Arish. Decapi- tation of Turkish soldiers for gaming. Ravages by the plague. Insurrection in Palestine on account of the heavy impositions of the government. Disas- trous state of the British mission. Death of a military artificer. ^British gunner dies oj the plague. Death of Mrs. Koehler, and of the General. Precautions employed to stop the progress of the plague. Turkish entertain- ments in camp. Removal of the camp. Instances of insubordination in th e camp. Effeclive force of the Turkish at my. Observations on the plague' Viziers physician dies' of the plague. Ramazan. Lydda. The Grand Fi~ zier indisposed, and attended by the author. Celebration of the Biram in camp. Remarks on the country about Jaffa. Climate of Syria. Face of the country, and soil. Productions of Syria. Sheep and goats. Other cattle. Habitations of the Syrians. Camels, and other beasts of burthen. Charac tcr and manners of the Syrians. Abject state of the farmers, or husband* men. Bedouins, or vjandering Arabs. Agriculture of Syria. Diseases oj Syria. ||N our return to camp we found that the transport had ar- rived on the morning of the preceding dav, the 21st, from El-Arish. The transport sailed on the 26th to Caiffa, the port of Acre, to seek shelter from the inclement weather and high winds, which rendered the road of Jaffa a place of little security for anchorage. The women belonging to the mission had been previously debarked from her, and were sent to inhabit a house in the town. On the morning of the 27th, a smart and brisk fire of musketry, with ball cartridges, was kept up for a considerable time by the Turkish s. Idierv, who, as we afterwards found, had been amusing themselves in this way on their return from a field-day. We learned on the 28th, that the Waiwode, or Governor of Damascus, had been, beheaded, and a Turk of distinction sent to SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I4I collect his riches. The deceased had been Kia to Mahomed Pacha, by whom he had been appointed to the above situation. During the night an affray happened among the Arnauts, who proceeded to such extremities, that five of them were killed, and three wounded. I delivered in, on the 30th, a written representation to the Vi- zier and Reis Effendi, on the subject of the filthy and noxious state of the camp, arising from the abundance of the putrid carcasses of horses, mules, &c. which were every where dispersed, in my letter, 1 recapitulated, in the most forcible and energetic terms I was capable of using, all the dangers which might result from these "usances, unless the means which I pointed out should be adopt* cd without delay, or, provided they could not be readily effected, the ground of the encampment shifted previously to the expected falls of rain. The Vizier, in expressing his thanks for this com- munication, promised that an immediate and proper attention should be paid to the remedying of the evil of which I com- plained. Towards the close of the month two of the Turkish chiefs, to- gether with several hundreds of the privates, surreptitiously left the camp, to proceed to Acre, and join the forces of Djezzar Pacha, who, according to reports which were abroad, gave better pay to his troops than the Vizier. About this time several of ©ur tents were plundered by the Arabs, whose activity and address eluded all our pursuits. These depre- dations having been committed for several nights successively, our suspicions at length fell on an Arab cook, whom we had taken into our service, and who proved to be one of the parties con- cerned. On the 3d of November, at six in the morning, the detachments which composed the British military mission, were marched out to be reviewed by his Highness the Vizier, for whom a superb tent had been pitched, together with several others for the company an 1 at- tendants. Our detachments having gone through a variety of evo- lutions, an J. fired several discharges, the Vizier was pleased to com- pliment them, and to express his fullest approbation oi their ex lent order and discipline. Previously to their being marched to camp, a present was made by iiis Highness to the non-commissioned offi- cers and privates. He had been careful to draw up on this occasion a large proportion 1 of his troops to witness the review; and made it a panicular request that our officers should join the Turkish caval- 1 42 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, cade in procession, on the return to the camp, in the course of which his attendants amused us by forming several cljerid parties, the music playing, and the Mameluke cavalry going through a charge. At this time the plague again made its appearance among the Mamelukes and Albanians, several of whom, we were informed, daily fell victims to this disease. Hassen Djadarvi, one of the Mameluke Beys, left El-Arish on the Cth with a considerable body of troops, for the purpose of reconnoitring the detached parties of the enemv, and endeavourino- to cut off them or their convoys. He returned a few days after, without having accomplished the object on which he had been sent. On the 10th I received from the reverend fathers belonging to the Latin convent at Jerusalem, a present of fruits and of curious plants collected near the Dead Sea, accompanied by two bottles of the water taken from that sea, the taste of which was peculiarly saline and pungent. Upon their arrival in England, I shall endea- vour to give an analysis of the water. The jannissaries assembled on the 13th, in a tumultuous manner, and proceeded to their Aga, or commander, who, on being appri- zed of their intentions and menaces, had secreted himself. Bein^ thus disappointed in meeting with the object? of their resentment, they repaired to the Vizier, to state their grievance, which consist- ed in a considerable arrear of their pay remaining unpaid. A Tar- tar having arrived, however, the preceding day in a vessel from Constantinople, with a supply of treasure for the Vizier, he was enabled to make them a promise of payment, with which they were so well satisfied, that they returned quietly to their tents. In consequence of an invitation from the Grand Vizier, the mis- sion proceeded on the morning of the 13th, at nine o'clock, to witness the ceremony of the payment which was to be made to the iannissaries. To the right of the tent of the Grand Vizier a tent was pitched for our officers; and to the left a new and superb tent, provided with a handsome sopha for his Highness, and a stool for the Tefterdar, or high treasurer, was pitched for the ceremony. The money which lav in bags in the front of the tent, was divided into nine lots. The guards and attendants, together with the Tar- titrs and jannissaries, formed three sides of a square, the fourth side of which was formed bv the tents. The jannissaries who. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C I43 were to be paid were without arms; and the Tefterdar read aloud the order of payment. Of the nine lots eight were for as many companies of jannissa- ries, and the ninth for the Choarbagis, or commanders. The bags contained in one of these Jots having been laid promiscuously with- in the square, a signal was made for the company which was to be paid. This was no sooner done than all the individuals belonging to it rushed forward and scrambled for the bags, contending with each other who should carry them off, to which circumstance they attach no small share of honour, at the same time that it is not accompanied by any pecuniary advantage, the bags being instantly taken to the tent of the Choarbagis commanding the company, and a proper distribution of the money there made. Each of the com- panies having received its lot or portion of the bags, the Choarbagis, who were permitted to wear their arms, had theirs delivered to them. The number distributed was an hundred and eighty-six, each of the purses or bags containing five hundred piastres. The state officers who attended on this occasion were dressed in scarlet benices, or robes of honour; and the Tefterdar was, on the conclusion of the ceremony, invested with a caftan, as were like- wise all those who were immediately concerned under him in ma- king the payments. Except the contests which ensued, in this very extraordinary mode of paying the troops, to obtain the possession of the bags, not a tumultuous voice was heard; but the whole was conducted with great gravity and tranquillity. In consequence of advices received from El-Arish on the 17th, purporting that the French had on hearing of the movement made by the Bey, Hassan Djadarvi, sent a body of fifteen hundred men to oppose him, and had also thrown a fresh body of troops into Sala/ueh, there was a considerable degree of ap-itation in the Tur'- kish camp. It was reported also that a brig, supposed to be French, had been hovering for some days off El-Arish. It was obvious that, the Turk^ having received no direct intelligence of these events from those who were in their confidence, an entire belief ought not to have been attached to the rumours thus circulated, yet the alarm they excited had the good effect of keeping our allies more on the alert than usual, and of inducing them to send out advanced parties. Accordingly, on the 20th, new reports having reached the Vizier from El-Arish, that the enemy's forces were in motion, and that a part of them had already reached Catieh, Captain Leake of the 144 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, royal artillery was detached, with a party mounted on hedgins, or dromedaries, to reconnoitre the enemy. We learned at this time that Mahomed Pacha was busily enga- ged in levying heavy contributions on the villages, and in the vici- nity of Jerusalem. From the state of several of these villages, however, when we passed through them on our late excursion to Jerusalem, this appeared to be a task not very easy in its accom- plishment. The doubts which had been expressed by the Pacha some days before, respecting the advance of the enemy, in great force, on El- Arish, were confirmed on the 24th, when it was ascertained, that the small body of French which had advanced to Catieh, consisted merely of a reconnoitring party, which had retired, after having plundered the Arab inhabitants of that place of a few of their camels. The difficulty of obtaining a precise knowledge of facts and oc- currences at the station we occupied, arose from the interposition of a desert between the enemy and the Ottoman army, which obli- ged the Turkish commanders to listen to the reports made by the Arabs, until they could obtain intelligence on which a more full re- liance could be placed. There had been latterly frequent desertions, both from the great encampment at Jaffa, and from that of El-Arish. It ought, not- withstanding to be observed, that these desertions were not to the common enemy, but into the interior of the country. It frequently- happened that the troops went off in large bodies. Among other causes of insubordination, gaming had found its way into the Turkish camp, and was more particularly prevalent among the Arnauts, who would not desist from this vicious prac- tice, notwithstanding it was in direct violation of public orders. We saw the bodies of several of these people, who had as we un- derstood, been decapitated for the above offence, lying in the streets of the encampment, with the head placed under the arm, the mode customarily practised after the decapitation of Musselmen. When a Frank is beheaded, he is denied the privilege of having the head placed under the arm ; instead of which it is placed between the legs, with the face towards the body. On the 25th, in taking a solitary ride, at a little distance from the camp two shots were fired, which came in my direction, bu: which fortunately missed me. The General and myself rode out in SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 145 ihe evening to the spot whence they were directed, and made the necessary inquiries, which, however proved ineffectual. The Pacha of Aleppo, whose dignity was announced by his being decorated with three tails, arrived al the encampment on the 26th, with a body of cavalry and infantry, amounting it was supposed, to about a thousand men. The advices which had been received from El-Arish, respecting the formidable movements of the French forces were conjectured to have been merely a stratagem of the troops encamped at that place to obtain from the Vizier the liquidation of the arrears of their pay, which had long been due. Supposing this conjecture to have been- well founded, the stratagem had its full effect, as the Vizier shortly after forwarded thither two hundred purses. Several vessels, which in consequence of the late violent gales, had been obliged to slip their cables in the road-stead of Jaffa, and had sought refuge at Caiffa, the port next to Acre, returned on the 27th, laden with barley, the daily consumption of which, at the Turkish camp, was said to amount to six hundred kiloes, each con- taining twenty-two okes ; or, to speak with more precision to the English reader, fifteen tons of that object of prime necessity were, according to this computation, consumed daily by the cattle. The gales still continued with unabated severity, and on the 28th the wind blew with unusual violence from the north ancUiorth- east. It might have been expected that the Turkish camp, how- ever replete with the germes of pestilence, would have been in some degree ventilated by these searching winds ; it is however, but too true, that the mortality occasioned by the plague, was at this time in an increasing ratio, and that manv of the troops daily- fell victims to its attacks. The officers belonging to the mission, dined by invitation, in the Turkish style, on the 30th, with his Excellency the Reis Effendi. In the rear of the ground on which the mission was encamped, an affray took place in the evening among the Turkish soldiers, in which several of the combatants were wounded. Advices were at this time brought to camp that Mahomed Pacha who, as h^s been before noticed, had been employed in the interior in exacting heavy and arbitrary contributions, had met with a for- midable resistance from the inhabitants of Nablous, and of the ad- jacent villages, by whom he had been defeated with considerable loss, after various skirmishes, which had continued for four days successively, llavinp- also received a check from the inhabitants of ( 19) 14,6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, the villages bordering on Jerusalem, he had at length been obliged to retreat towards Hebron. The English sloop of war the Camelion, Captain Maitland, ar- rived at Jaffa in the night of the 2d of December ; and, on the following morning, Colonel Murray, deputy quarter-master-ge- nerai to the forces under the command of Sir Ralph Abercrombie, came to the camp, with the very satisfactory intelligence of the ap- proach of a considerable British force. From this information we were encouraged to hope that the painful situation of the mission would be speedily alleviated by the adoption of more active mea- sures, which would bring the affairs in this part of the world to a speedy conclusion. Captait Maitland, of the Camelion, having been advised that a suspicious brig had been observed for several days past hovering off El-Arish, sailed on the evening of the 3d, in hopes of falling in with her. The plague continued to make great ravages in the Turkish camp, and was not, as before, confined to the Mamelukes and Albanians, but had become general among every description of the troops. It was impossible to form a precise idea of the mortality it occasioned ; but from what we witnessed, we had reason to conjecture that an hundred individuals perished daily from this complaint. The Turk- ish r"apks were also greatly thinned by the desertions, which were effected in large bodies to prevent the passage from being disputed by a small guard purposely stationed about three miles from the camp, on the road leading to Acre and Damascus. General Koehler, Colonel Murray, and all the officers of the mission, were invited to be present at a Turkish field-day, on the 4th. The troops, consisting of about six thousand, went through nearly the same manoeuvres with those which have been already de- scribed. The Camelion, having on board Major Fletcher and Qaptain Leake, arrived on the afternoon of the 7th, from El-Arish, with- out having fallen in with the suspicious brig, in quest of which she had sailed from Jaffa. I am compelled here to interrupt the order of my narrative of o-eneral occurrences, to - speak particularly of the situation of the mission at the period on which 1 am entering. On the 5th of the present month, December, Geary, a military artificer, was attack- ed by symptoms of malignant fever, to which he fell a victim on the 10th in the afternoon. His death was soon followed by other SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I47 similar disasters ; for, on the night following the day of his de- cease, Mace, a civil artificer, was seized with symptoms which very speedily announced the disease to be a true case of the plague. Under this attack he sunk at nine in the morning of the 12th, after an illness of little more than twenty-four hours. This fatal case was succeeded by that of gunner Cowden, one of the artillery-men, who was attacked on the evening of the 13th, with symptoms si- milar to the above, and languished until the afternoon of the 18 th, the sixth day of the attack, when he expired. In both of these cases several pestilential tumours were manifest. It will be seen, in the Medical Appendix annexed to this work, that, under these alarming and calamitous circumstances, none of the precautions which prudence could suggest were neglected, to prevent the fur- ther spreading of the contagion. The fatal illness of Mrs. Koehhr, wife of the General, was of a more lingering kind than those related above. On the seventh day of the month she was attacked by symptoms of malignant fe- ver, which, did not yield to any of the curative means employed, but manifested in their progress an increased virulence. On the 13th she was conveyed from the encampment to the town of Jaffa, where a lodging had been provided for her; and died there on the 14th, in the afternoon. Her affectionate and inconsolable husband, the General, did not long survive her loss. He was seized nearly in the same manner on the morning of the 26th; and, having quitted the encampment, sent his secretary immediately after to Co- lonel Tlollowaj/, the next in command, to say that he was gone to Jaffa indisposed. The malignance of the fever by which he had been attacked,' added to the melancholy into which he had been plunged by his recent loss, very speedily terminated his earthly career. He died' on the evening of the 29th, the fourth day of the attack; and was buried on the following afternoon with milita- ry honours. Here let me pause for a moment, to reflect on the sad position of those who were left to lament his loss, and to deplore the calamitous events of a similar kind which had followed each other in so quick a succession. The plague at this juncture raged with the utmost violence in the Tnritfsh camp, and had, as has already been seen (as well as a fever which appeared scarcely less malignant) com- menced its ravages in our small party, in which a general indispo- sition prevailed. We had lost our Chief, who had fallen a victim 'iscase : and each o( us trembled for himself, and for the friend'; I48 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, and associates by whom he was environed. It would be difficult to conceive a situation of more imminent peril* than that in which we were placed, and it is impossible to describe the painful sensa- tions by which each individual was agitated. It was sufficient that a new case of illness, from whatever cause it might have arisen, was announced, to fill us with the most agonizing pangs, the most heart-rending apprehensions! — In the mean time, a vigilant and unremitted attention was paid to whatever could stay the progress of infection ; fumigations were, among a variety of means, em- ployed in each of the tents, and the sick, as well as the attendants, separated from the rest of the people. In each of the cases which had terminated fatally, the clothes, bedding, and, in general, whatever had been employed for the service of the deceased, were immediately burned. My narrative recommences on the 8th of December, when the officers belonging to the mission, with Colonel Murray, the de- puty quarter-master-general, whose arrival in the camp I have al- ready announced, had the singular honour cf dining with the Grand Vizier. His Highness was in uncommonly good spirits, in con- sequence of his having that morning received a firman from the Sul- tan, accompanied, among other presents, by that of a beautiful handjar, or dagger, the hilt of which was set with diamonds of great brilliancy. On this particular occasion a royal salute was fired ; and his Highness's magnificent tent spread, toreceive the firman, or let- ter, and to display the presents. Our dinner was entirely in the Turkish style, and of course con- sisted of the best dishes the country could supply, prepared with the most consummate address. The polite and friendly attentions of the Vizier, who paid many compliments to his i??z^//.s/j guests, gave them a still higher relish ; and we departed with the most satisfac- tory impressions of his kind and undisguised hospitality. On our return home, his Highness sent each of us a present of a shawl and a piece of silk. The General received also a gift of a snuff-box, ornamented with diamonds. The same party, with the exception of the General, who absent- ed himself on account of Mrs, Kotlder's indisposition, dined on the 11th with the Kia Bey. On proceeding up the camp, to repair to * This peril was augmented 'ov the necessity of attending, at so awful a crisis, on the Vizier. Thirty-six cf his family and retinue had already fallen victims to this fatal disease, which was fast gaining ground in his Kighness's quart SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I49 his tent, wc were invited by the Vizier to see the Turkish practice or cutting a large roll of felt, nearly ten inches in diameter, mois- tened, and suspended by a cord. On this roll of felt several good cuts were made, but one only by which it was completely severed into two parts. This extraordinary atchievement, to effect which must have required great address combined with a long practice, was rewarded by a suitable present. We found the Kia Bey to be a very agreeable and pleasant man, of about forty-five years of age. Before and after our dinner, which was served up with much taste and neatness, pipes, coffee, an. I other refreshments, were handed to us; and ao attention spared to demon- strate the kind and friendly disposition of our host. Colonel Murr-aj embarked on the 13th on board, the Camelion sloop of war for Macri. He was accompanied by Major Fletcher, of the royal engineers, charged with despatches to Sir luilph Abcr- crombie. On die 15th the Vizier shifted the site of his encampment to a spot on the other side of Jaffa, distant about an hour's journey, or three miles, from the ancient ground. His Highness, and principal officers, accompanied bv the different corps of troops under their respective commanders, moved with great ceremony to occupy the new ground of encampment. We followed his example on the 16th, and pitched our tents on an eminence, co- vered with a white and clear sand, and commanding: a fine view of the sea. The Turkish sick, who were very numerous, and among whom so great a mortality prevailed, that, on the morning of the 15th, no less than fifty dead bodies passed in front of our encampment, were left behind. Many thousands of men, alas ! had already pe- rished, and many othets were still doomed to destruction, through the superstitious prejudices and culpable neglect of their rulers, who had spurned at every admonition to take the necessary precau- tions for their safety. The ground which the Turkish soldiery had quitted, exhibited a melancholy scene, the horrors of which were heightened bv the great numbers of carcasses of camels, horses, asses, and dogs (among whom also an epidemical dis- ease had recently broken out), with which the earth was abun- dantly strewed. It was now left to vomit forth the abundance of putrid animal matter with which it had been so long surcharged. On our fixing ourselves on the new ground of encampment, so much firing was kept up by the Turkish military, the balls from I£0 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, whose pieces frequently fell within the camp of the mission, that General Kochler found it necessary to make an official representa- tion of this abuse to the Vizier and Reis Effendi. The result of this measure was, that a guard of janissaries was placed on the left of the camp ; but no sooner was the mission relieved from one inconvenience, than it was followed by another of a more alarminp- nature, the commander of the guard falling a victim to the plague a few days after. On the 17th, three bodies were seen lying in the streets of the new camp, with the head placed under one of the arms. This Turkish custom, in the punishment of criminals, has been already explained. The English hospital tent, which had been left on the old. ground of encampment, with the plague patient, Cowden, on whose case I touched in a late digression, was attempted to be robbed by a par- ty of Arabs. The guard in attendance fired on these miscreants, who could not be deterred from their predatory pursuits by the risk even of encountering so dreadful a disease. At this time an incident occurred which displays the extreme heedlessness of the Turks. Major Hope commanding the artillery, went to the Topgis Bashi, or chief of artillery, to give him some instructions relative to the Turkish ordnance. One of the topgis, or artillery-men, brought a live shell into the tent in which, this business was transacting, to show the priming and quick match, which he placed close to the pipes of those who were smoking, and with a thorough insensibility of his own danger, and of the risk to which he exposed all the ammunition in the park of artille- ry, drew out his knife to open the match. So little attention do these people pay to consequences, that he would, in the same way, have brought in a cartridge of powder, if the major had not pre- vented him. On the evening of the 19th the sick were removed to the new en- campment, where they were placed under the same strict and severe quarantine as before. An English gun-boat arrived at Jaffa, on the 27th from Gi- braltar. She brought advices, that the fleet stationed off Malta had captured three vessels richly laden out of Alexandria, at which place nearly sixty sail, having on beard property destined for France, were making preparations for their departure. The gun-boats sail- ed in the evening for the coast of Egpj/t. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. l£l The death of General Koehler, our highly lamented and equally respected chief, occurred, as I have already stated, on the 29th of the present month. On the 30th after all the honours due to the rank and importance of the deceased had been paid to his revered obsequies, Lieutenant Colonel Holloway, on whom the command of the mission devolved, sent messages to the Grand Vizier, the Kia Eey, the Reis Effendi and the Tefterdar Effendi, to announce to them, respectively and individually, the melancholy event. He at the same time requested an audience of the Grand Vizier, which took place on the following day, the 31st, when he announced his situation officially. He was accompanied, on this occasion, by Major Hope, who was acknowledged by the Vizier as second in command ; and, after many compliments had been paid to each of these officers, the former was invested with a sable pelice, and the latter with a pelice of ermine. On the 1st of January 1801, I paid a visit to the Reis Effendi, with whom I had a long conversation relative to the precautions to be taken to prevent the further progress of infection. He imparted to me the pleasing intelligence, that the camp was more healthy than it had been, the plague having in a great measure ceased. Colonel Holloway urged the Vizier on the 2d, to make such pre- parations as the expediency of the circumstances seemed to require, and, among others, to establish magazines of provisions and am- munition at El-Arish. In the afternoon, while the servants of Colonel Holloway and Major Hope were exercising the horses of their masters, they were attacked bv a party of plundering Arabs, by whose fire the Colo- nel's horse was killed, and his servant wounded with balls and slugs in nine different places. By the exertions of his companion the wounded man was brought off; and the balls and slugs afterwards extracted by me. On this outrage being communicated to the Vi- zier, he gave orders that the most strict enquiry should be made af- ter the culprits. On the 3d a dispute took place at Jaffa, between a janissary and a Dehli, in which one of the parties was killed. On this event being made known the two corps resorted to arms, and drew up in opposition to each other with so menacing an aspect, that it requi- red the utmost exertion on the part of the Vizier to prevent the most serious consequences from ensuing. The effective force of the Turkish armv consisted at this time of about sixteen thousand men, who were distributed as follows: ten I £2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, thousand in the Vizier's encampment; two thousand at Gaza; and four thousand at El-Avish. In a conversation with the Reis EfFendi on the 6th, he informed me that, notwithstanding cases of plague still occurred in the Otto- man camp, the disease was become much milder, and consequently less fatal in its effects, insomuch that several of those who had been recently attacked, had recovered. The same circumstance has been known to occur at Constantinople when the disease was upon the decline. The Camelion sloop of war arrived at Jaffa on the morning of the 9th, with General Moon; Captain Anderson his aid-du-camp, and Mr. JSlorier secretary to Lord Elgin, all of them from the British army. They had an immediace audience with the Grand Vizier and Reis EfFendi, to whom thev were the bearers of import- ant despatches. We learned from them, with much satisfaction, that the whole of the British forces had reached Marmariee Bay in good health and spirits. The bodies of several persons who had died of the plague, eight of them from the Vizier's own particular camp, were on the 10th carried for interment in our view. To demonstrate, however, that the disease was mitigated in its effects, the Reis Effendi stated, that of five of the slaves of the Grand Vizier who had been latterly at- tacked by this disease, three had recovered. On the 12th I rode across the plains of Jaffa and Lydda, in com- pany with Captain Maitland, of the Camelion, and several of his officers. We approached the town of Lydda, or Loudda, and saw the Arab inhabitants busily employed in sowing their barley. The soil of these fine and extensive plains is a rich black mould, which, with proper care and industry, might be rendered extremely fertile. Dr. Bosari, physician to the Grand Vizier, died of the plague on the morning of the 13th, being the third day of the attack. General Moore his aid-du-camp, and Mr. Mario; left Jaffa on the 1 4th, to rejoin the British army. During his stay at the en- campment, the General had, as well as Colonel Holloivay, daily conferences with the Vizier and Ottoman ministers. Our expecta- tions were, that we were to remain with the Turkish army, which it was thought would very soon break ground, either to co-operate with the British forces, or to attack the common enemy at such points as should be found advisable in the sequel. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C, 1 53 The Cynthia sloop of war, Captain Dick, arrived at Jaffa on the morning of the 15th, with despatches (ram Alexandria, which were immediately sent on shore. She sailed in the evening wich de- spatches, to join the fleet commanded by Admiral Lord Keith, lying in the bay of Marmarice, and was to touch at Cyprus on her way. The Turkish Ramazan, a solemn fast already described, com- menced on the evening of the 16th. No sooner was the new moon, by which it was introduced, descried, than a general discharge of cannon, musketry, and pistols, was heard in every part of the camp, to announce the event. ISEntreprenant, an English cutter, arrived at Jaffa on the 2lsr, with despatches from Admiral Lord Keith. Among the papers con- taining intelligence which were received by this channel from Cairo, was a printed proclamation of General Menou. Further intelligence from Cairo was received on the 23d, by a Greek merchant, who had left that place eighteen days before ; and also by a confidential Arab, sent by Mahomed Elphi Bey. The latter had passed through Cairo and Salahieh, both of which pla- ces the enemy were employed in fortifying, more especially the lat- ter, for the defence of which they had recently sent several pieces of heavy ordnance. He estimated their force at about twelve thou- sand French, and from two to three thousand native troops, distri- buted in these places and their vicinity. This Arab was the bearer of a note from Mahomed Elphi Bey to the officer commanding the British mission. I rode out, in the morning of the same day, towards Lydda, the ancient city of Loudda, where Peter, the disciple of our Lord, healed the aged JEneas, who laboured under a paralytic complaint; and whence he proceeded to Joppa, the Jaffa of modern times, to effect a miraculous cure by restoring to life Tabitha, or, as she was otherwise called, Dorcas, a pious and good woman. Lydda is denominated by the Greeks Diospolis, or the city of Jupiter, pro- bably because a temple had been dedicated in its vicinity to that deitv. Since the crusades it has received from the Christians the name of St. George, on account of its having been the scene of the martyrdom and burial of that saint. In this city tradition reports that the Emperor Justinian erected a church. On the 25th the confidential Arab, to whom I referred above, left the camp with the reply of Colonel Jlolloway to the note of ( 20 ) I<4 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Mahomed Elphi Bey. Fresh disturbances broke out among the janissaries on the following day. The Vizier proceeded with great ceremony on the 27th, to visit the new bastion, which was now completed. To give a greater eclat to this event, he, wiih his own hands, laid hold of the ropes to cet in the guns, and then seated himself on the rampart, to see them placed in the embrazures. As soon as the first gun had been laid on its platform, a solemn prayer was repeated by the Turkish priests. Pelices were afterwards presented to Colonel Holloway and Major Hope, together wi:h several caftans to the Turkish offi- cers who were in attendance. There was so violent a storm on the 29th, that several of our tents were blown down. It blew most tremendously during the ni°"ht, and was accompanied by thunder, lightning, and hail. The three sick who were lodged in the lazaretto-tent being perfectly recovered, were released from their confinement on the 31st. Previously to their joining the camp, their clothes and bed- ding were, together with the tent, committed to the flames ; in ad- dition to which precaution, they were made to wash themselves in the sea. On the 1st of February there was a riot among the janissaries, for which several causes were assigned, and, among others, the want of forage for their horses. In the midst of their discontent, they were, they said, willing to agree to two things, namely, that the English should have barley for their horses, because they were good friends ; and that the horses which drew the guns should also be furnished with provender, as such a supply was necessary to the public service: but they could not consent that any part of what was in store should be issued for the use of the great officers of state, as they could afford to make the requisite purchases. The Vizier being indisposed, I was desired to visit him, and found him laid up with symptoms of a severe cold. He requested of me to see him from time to time; and, on my repeating my visit on the following day, I observed that he laboured under a great de- pression of spirits, which he acknowledged to have arisen from the operation on his mind of the frequent difficulties he had had to encounter. Among these, the gales of wind which had recently prevailed had forced the vessels laden with barley, and other sup- plies of stores and provisions for the Turkish army, to quit their anchorage; and had also prevented the arrival of other vessels, as had been expected. In this way a scarcity had been occasioned, by SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I55 which the Vizier had been frustrated in his intention of makinz a movement, however strongly he was urged to do so by the existing circumstances. Captain Lacy was despatched to El-Arish on the 2d, to collect military information. The weather was at this time become settled and pleasant, at- tended by the land breeze, which, setting in towards evening, fur- nished an indubitable token of its continuance. The country in the vicinity of the encampment began to wear a smiling appearance, and, in consequence of the late heavy rains, was covered with a fine verdure, which overspread even what had been hitherto merely arid and sandy hills. Intelligence was received from Cairo, on the 5th, which stated, among other particulars, that the plague had broken out among the French troops, sixty of whom perished daily from its attacks. It gave me great satisfaction, at the same time, to learn from the Reis Effendi, that this formidable adversary had nearly disappeared among the Turkish soldiery. The New Adventure transport had arrived from Caiffa, and, to- gether with a considerable number of vessels laden with barley, and other stores for the army, lay at anchor off Jaffa. A reinforce- ment of troops had also reached that place by sea ; and a corps of about a hundred and fifty Arnauts arrived in the camp, after an overland march, on the 6th. These arrivals induced the Vizier to make some preparations for marching. The Kai Bey having been ordered to Constantinople, the Tefterdar was, on the same day, appointed Kai Bey in his stead. The Vizier transmitted information to Colonel Holloway on the 7th, that in the space of ten days he should march forward with his army. On the 8th a body of Arnauts, in marching into the camp, made the usual discharges of musketry, the consequence of which was, that, to our great annoyance and manifest peril, several of their shots passed close over the encampment of the mission. This irre- gularity, accompanied by much shouting and tumult, was continu- ed throughout the whole of the evening. Letters were received on the I lth and 13th from Captain La- cy, at El-Arish. They stated, that the enemy were busied at Cairo in constructing towers, or detached redoubts, provided with heavy artillery ; and were also erecting other works, on which a great number of persons were employed. At the date of his let- 1^6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ters the plague still prevailed .with great violence in the camp at El-Arish. The festival of the Biram, which commenced on the 13th, on the completion of the 7 urkish Hamazun, or Lent, and the cele- bration of winch was to last during three days, was announced by the Vizier by the discharge of several rounds of artillery, accom- panied by frequent discharges of musketry throughout the whole extent of the camp. In tne evening brilliant illuminations were displayed. On the above festive occasion, the whole of the following day, the 14th, was spent by the great officers of state, and other lurks, in making visits of ceremony, and in demonstrating, in every pos- sible way, the joy they felt at being no longer subjected to the pe- nalties of the Bam&zan, or fast. In a benice, or entertainment, which the Vizier commanded for the 15th, he was accompanied by all his principal officers of state, and by at least one thousand persons, who joined in the cavalcade. The troops, whose numbers appealed to have been latterly much augmented, were drawn up in a line; and a tent pitched, in which the Vizier, the principal Turkish officers, Colonel Holloway, and Major IJcpe, were seated. A djerid party having been assembled, upwards of fifiy combatants on each side supported the different at- tacks with great spirit, agility, and address. Unfortunately, one of them received so serious a hurt, that he was obliged to be car- ried off the field. Jn this military exercise, into a concise explana- tion of which I have already entered, it sometimes happens that one of the opponents, in riding full speed after the other, lances his stick, or wand, with such force and adroitness, that the latter, however dexterous he may be, is unable either to lay hold of it, or to par'-y off the blow. In such a case he is inevitably struck with so much violence, as to be obliged to have recourse to cup- ping, to relieve himself from the effects of the severe bruises he has received. In this way it was that the Vizie: some years before un- fonunately lost an eye, which was beaten out by one of his own attendants. To this unlucky circumstance 1 adverted, when 1 gave, in the preceding pages, a description of this distinguished person- age ; Luc 1 did not relate an anecdote which resulted from the acci- de t, and which, as it clearly indicates a humane and feeling dis- position, such as, it is to be regretted, few Turks possess, is a trait in the Vizier's character which ought to be recorded. He sent, on the following day, for the individual by whom he had been SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 57 wounded, and, on his being brought before him, made him a va- luable present, requesting, at the same time, that he would neves again appear in his presence, lest it should remind him of his mis- forcune. In returning to the ground of the encampment, the procession moving in the same order as in setting our, a corps of Turkish ca- valry, Dehlis, galloped forward, and took possevssion of a height* A sham attack being made on them, a heavy firing of musketry and pistols, discharged in the air, was kept up, the balls with which they were charged flying, as usual, in every direction. Anions the new levies which were daily pouring in to the Turk- ish camp, were several individuals who had suffered an amputation of the nose. This being the punishment inflicted by Djezzar Pacha at Acre, plainly indicated whence they came. A Pacha, with a corps of about four hundred men, arrived in the camp on the 16th. The mission about this time suffered great in- convenience from the difficulty of procuring a necessary supply of provisions. On the 20th, Captain Leake was ordered to hold himself in rea- diness to proceed with despatches to the commander in chief: and on the following day the janissaries, with another party of troops, marched from the camp, on their way to Yebna — a sufficient indi- cation that the active military operations were on the eve of com- mencing. Several other detachments quitted the encampment on the 23d ; and we were ordered to hold ourselves in readiness for the 23th in the morning, beyond which time the marc!) of the Vizier, with the remainder of his armv, was not to be delayed. In quitting Jaffa, some description of the country in which wc had resided for such a length of time may reasonably be expected from me, in addition to the information I have already been enabled to give, in detailing the particulars of my occasional excursions from the camp. ' I shall therefore close the present chapter with a brief sketch of the most interesting particulars 1 was able to col- lect, during my stay in this part of Syria ; and shall afterwards re- sume my narrative of general occurrences, which will thus have suffered onlv a momentary interruption. A general idea of the climate of Syria may be formed from the following paniculars r — During our stay there, the thermometer, in the months of July, August, and September, marked the high- est, in the afternoon, from ninety-three to ninety-five degrees of Ifg TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Fahrenheit. It is unnecessary to remark, that during this interval the heat was extremely oppressive to such of our party as had not been inured to the more sultry climes. The sky was, at the above season, beautifully clear, without a cloud to obscure the wide ex- panse ; and the atmosphere pure and benign. The greatest varia- tion of temperature occurred in the months of October and No- vember, when the rains came on suddenly with some degree of vi- olence. This may properly be considered as the rainy season, since, generally speaking, during the other parts of the year a drought prevails. The very copious dew's which fall in the dry months, when there is a total absence of rain, promote and forward the vegetation. During the summer months the prevailing winds are from the ■north and north-west. In entering on October, they are more va- riable, blowing strongly from the south, south-east, and east. It is at this time that the sudden and heavy showers commence, and that the sky, which was before so uniformly clear, is overspread with dark and heavy clouds. At length, the month of Novem- ber drawing towards its close, the rains cease to fall, and the wea- ther becomes pleasant and salubrious. The result of my observa- tions at this season was, that before sun-rise the thermometer ran- ged from 42 to 52 and 53, and that, consequently, the mornings were refreshing and cool. At noon the variations of the thermo- meter were from 66 to 76, with a degree of heat which was by no means oppressive. On the coast of Syria the sea breeze prevails during the day time, and, falling in the evening, gives place to the gentle land breeze, which continues to blow until about nine the next morn- ing. In the month of December, 1800, the January following, and a part of February, the weather was very tempestuous, with hea- vy rains, vivid lightnings, and thunders, the explosion of which was awful and tremendous. During this period the thermometer was low; and, on one occasion, the storm was accompanied by hail. The winds were usually from the south or south-west. A haziness from the southward was the sure precursor of each of the gales; and to this indication of foul weather was superadded a re- markably large circle, or disk, round the moon. This boisterous and comparatively cold weather was highly favourable to the health of the individuals belonging to the mission. It yielded, about the 5 0th of February, to a more warm and settled temperature of the SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I 59 air, which, bestowing on the arid hills some slight degree of ver- dure, rendered the aspect of the country more cheerful. Syria may in general be considered as 3 mountainous country; but the part bordering on Jaffa has several very extensive plains, which are intersected, at certain distances, with moderate heights. In approaching Jerusalem, after having proceeded to the other side of Rami a, the mountains are very lofty, and, having but a slender superficies of earth to cover their rocky prominences, are exclusively adapted to the cultivation of olive-trees, which take root in their very clefts, and hide the naked appearance they would otherwise exhibit. In general the country is but thinly covered with trees, and has few woods, or thickets. In the parts where there is no tex- ture of soil, but merely a white loose sand, not a tree nor shrub is to be seen. To the north side of Jaffa, a small river, which empties itself into the sea, presents itself at the distance of two or three miles. It is the only one which I met with in Syria ; it is probable, how- ever, that others may have been formed, subsequently to the ex- cursions I made into the interior, by the abundant falls of rain I have' had occasion to notice. From the information I was able to collect, as well as from my own personal observation, I could not learn that either mines or eruptions of volcanic matter are to be met with in Syria. The soil in many parts, in those more especially bordering on the deserts, consists almost exclusively of a fine white sand, the reflec- tion from which is extremely painful to the sight. This barren territory extends, to the northward, beyond Jaffa. It contains, however, in common with the other parts of Syria, several fer- tile spots, covered with a rich black mould, which very copiously repay the labour bestowed on them. On the rocky grounds an inconsiderable portion of calcareous earth is found blended with marl. Wherever the land is susceptible of cultivation, and has not been neglected, it affords abundant crops of wheat, barley,. Indian corn (dourra), tobacco, cotton, and other productions. Fruits and vegetables are in equal abundance. Among the former are pome- granates, figs, oranges, lemons, citrons of an uncommonly large size, melons, grapes, and olives. The melons are large, and have a delicious flavour; as have also the grapes, of which we partook so late as the month of December, when we found thev still re- l6o TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Gained their exquisite flavour. I have already adverted to the un- common size of the water-melons, many of" which weigh from twenty to thirty pounds. They are a great and valuable resource to the inhabitants, who are so passionately fond of them, that, du- ring the -ummer months, they form a great part of their subsis- tence. Notwithstanding thev are as cooling and refreshing, as grateful to the taste, 1 was surprised to see the natives eat them in such immoderate quantities, without experiencing any unpleasant consequences. Among the vegetable productions for the table may be ranged the coulcas, the okre or bannier, the coussa, a species of gourd, the toma'a, and a kind of bean which has some resemblance to our French bean. The coulcas is a ro t brought from Bairout, Acre, Sidon, and Bamiettu, which, when cooked, is in taste not unlike the potato, from which it differs in appearance by its darker hue and less regular shape. In its raw state it is extremely acrid, and produces on the mouth and fauces, when tasted, a sensation of pricking and smarting, such as is caused, under the same cir- cumstances, by the Arum root. It is considered by the inhabitants as a wholesome and agreeable vegetable, and, being scraped and boiled, enters into the composition of many of their dishes. The okre is a fine mucilaginous vegetable, which gives an excellent fla- vour to the soups. To the above list may be added other vegetables, the quality of which is excellent, such as cabbages, cauliflowers, spinage, lettuce, endive, turnips, cucumbers, radishes, and onions; the latter ex- tremely mild. Both fruits and vegetables, as well as all other marketable commodities, are sold by weight. The grounds in Sjria are in general open. Where enclo- sures have been attempted, they are fenced in with the prickly- pear tree. Numerous flocks of goats and sheep are distributed over the plains, as well as in the mountainous territory. The tails of the latter are uncommonly large, resembling those of the sheep of the Cape of Good Hope. Many of them have an extraordinaiy length of ear; but this observation applies still more particularly to the goats, an ear of one of which I had the curiosity to measure, and found it to be nine inches in length. The cows and oxen are small, anl of a reddish hue: large herds of them are driven out in the mornings, to browze in the plains, and in those parts of the moun- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. l6l lainous territory, where a scanty superficies of soil, spread over the rocks, affords a feeble hope of pasturage. The animal fooxl of the Syrians consists principally of mutton and goat's, flesh, and they consume but a very small proportion of beef, and no veal. They are, indeed, very sparing in their use of flesh, chiefly confining themselves in their diet to the vegetable pro- ductions they have in such great abundance, and of such excel- lent qualities. The horses are small, but fleet, and very sure footed. In their choice of them, the Turkish inhabitants attach themselves rather to the figure and showy appearance of the beast, than to his fleet- ness and other useful qualities. During our stay in the country, a good horse brought from four to five hundred piastres, that is, from thirty to nearly forty pounds English. The mules are very numerous, and of a large breed. This re- mark also applies to the asses ; and the latter are much more swift of pace than those of England. As a beast of burden, the camel has a remarkable pre-eminence in point of utility. The inhabitants being destitute of carriages for the conveyance of their merchandise from place to place, such vehicles being incompatible with the state of the roads and Country, have necessarily recourse* to this animal, to perform the labours to which the mule, from his comparatively diminutive stature, cannot be subjected. This is not the only advantage which has resulted to the Syrians, from the pains they have bestowed in the propagation of their race of camels, whose patient endurance of fatigues is only to be equalled by the parsimonious support which their nature re- quires. In crossing the deserts, or in performing other tedious and laborious journies where water cannot be procured, they pass several days in succession without allaying their thirst; and make a hard and scantv meal on the shrubs and bushes they may chance to encounter on their wav, without subjecting their masters to the necessity of loading them, in addition to their other burdens, with provender for their support. A smaller and more slender species of the camel, called hedgin, is mounted by the natives and others, and is capable of making a greater progress, on a long journey, than a horse. It requires some habit to be reconciled to its motion, which is, however, not so fatiguing as might be supposed from .'he appearance of the animal, for its pace being by long and re^u- ( 21 ) ID2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, lar steps, the rider feels a sensation similar to that of being rocked in a cradle.* The Syrians are in general of an ordinary stature, and of a spare thin make, but very active and alert. Their speed, both in run- ning and walking, is very great ; and being inured as well to pri- vations as to fatigues, they are capable of enduring an extreme toil, with a very scanty support, for a considerable length of time. In this particular they have a great resemblance to the Indians of America. Their countenances are meagre and wan; and their complexion so dark as, in a variety of instances, to approach nearly to black. Their hair is of a shining black, and it is worn by the women very long, extending even to the waist. They dress and decorate it in a very fanciful manner, suspending from it, and round the head, different coins, such as paras, sequins, and piastres, large bunches of which are also suspended from the ears. On the wrists they wear bracelets of coloured glass. They stain their nails of an orange colour with the henna, and blacken their eyelids with a powder, of which I have already spoken in the details I have given relative to Turkey. The inhabitants of Syria arc very abstemious in their diet, which is simple in the extreme. It consists chieflv of salted olives, cheese of a poor and indigestible quality, a coarse bread badly baked, and formed into flat cakes, and rancid butter, or perhaps oil. They rarely indulge themselves in the use of animal food ; but on these occasions prepare a wholesome, and to many a pala- table dish called pilaw, by stewing the flesh with rice. Notwith- standing their common beverage is water, a spirituous compound, called rackcy, made from the fermented husks and stalks of grapes, distilled with aniseeds, is imported into Syria from Turkey and Asia. During our stay at Jaffa we were well supplied with fish, such as mullets, breams, &:c. Our butter we were obliged to procure from Jerusalem : it was made without salt, and cost nearly eigh- teen pence English per pound. In every part of the country there is an abundance of fowls; but we did not meet with either tame ducks, geese, or turkies, with the exception of those brought from Cyprus, where they arc bred in great numbers. * I do not recollect to have seen, either in Syrjq or in Egypt, more than one protu- berance on the back of the camels, whether bedtgins, or dromedaries, which appear to be only a more blender and smaller species of the camel. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. l6j There are two classes of Arabs very different from each other in their habits, morals, and style of living. The Fellah, that is die farmer, or husbandman, inhabits the villages, or the detached and isolated dwellings in the plains, under the subjection of a Bey, or, perhaps, of a Mameluke, or cachcf, who, having been originally a slave to one of the Beys, has gained the confidence of his mas- ter, and received not only his freedom, but the government of a certain number of villages, on the revenues of which he preys with- out control. In the exercise of his oppressive acts he is aided by a subordinate officer, denominated a gindee. Each of the newly appointed cachefs has no sooner enriched himself by the contributions levied on the produce of the wretched Fellahs subjected to his domination, than he purchases such of the estates as devolve to the Bey from the original proprietors, either by death or forfeiture. Cases of the latter description frequently occur from the cupidity of the Bey, who, being aware of the very precarious tenure by which he holds his government, seizes, on the slightest pretext, upon all the property within his reach, and ha-; been frequently known, in the course of a short and despotic ad- ministration, to bring the same estate repeatedly to sale. Thus arc the Fellahs, while they plant and sow, in an uncertain state, whe- ther the whole of the expected produce of their industry is to be snatched from them by their oppressor, on the ground of confisca- tion, or whether they are still to be allowed the small portion of it which the Avanias spare, and to be maintained in their quiet pos- session of the territorial property transmitted to them by their an- cestors. To this class of Arabs theartizans, domestics, and in general all those who constitute the lower ranks of society, in the towns and villages, belong. With relation both to morals and industry, the Fellahs have un- questionably an advantage over the Bedouins, or wandering tribes of Arabs. Being stationary, and acquiring by their labour and indus- try the little which is requisite to satisfy their wants, they have not been stimulated to the predatory pursuits by which the latter have rendered themselves formidable and obnoxious to society. In the midst of the abject state in which they live, they have on somr occasions evinced that thev are not destitute of courage and energy. in several of the districts, more especially in those of Foua and Dcnxtnhour, when the French troops, commanded bv Generals Desalt and. Jhliard, penetrated into I'pper Egtfpt and some parts 164 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, of Syria, the Fellahs manifested a spirit of resistance which the invaders had little reason to expect. In the relation which the French artist, Denon, who accompanied the above detachments, has published, the vigorous resistance made by these people is recorded, but not with all the circumstances by which the trans- actions were accompanied. It is certain, that a detachment of eighty French was put to death in the night-time by the inhabi- tants of Foua, led by a fanatic shieck; and that, on several other occasions, they harassed and annoyed the republican troops, by whom they were at length, with great difficulty, brought under subjection. The wandering Arabs, or Bedouins, who form the other class, are divided into tribes, more or less numerous, to each of which distinct limits are assigned. These tribes do not always live in amity together; and whenever, in consequence of an invasion of limits, or some other cause of dispute among themselves, war is declared, alliances are formed, in which the policy of the numbers to be ranged on each side is consulted. The weaker tribes, in these cases, do not of course neglect to associate themselves with the more powerful. The worst part of their warfare consists, how- ever, in the attacks (hey make on travellers, whether in small ami isolated parties, or in the large bodies formed fur protection and de- fence into caravans. The Bedouins then betray all the ferocious cruelty o{ their character, which they also manifest when they make incursions into the villages of the Arab cultivators. In executing their predatory projects, they have even dared to penetrate to the walls of Cairo. The property with which they travel consists of horses, camels, and sheep-, and to seek pasturage for these animals, they are constantly shifting their ground in the deserts where thev have taken up their residence. A class of them, however, more: settled than the others, but still Bedouins, inhabit tents on the bor- ders of the deserts, and there cultivate such spots as are favourable to vegetation. The swiftness of the mares on which they are mounted was a great obstacle to the progress of the French, on their penetrating into Upper Egypt. Whenever they felt themselves in sufficient force to encounter their enemy, the Bedouins attacked with an entire confidence that, in case of a defeat, they should be able to eiTect their escape. It was on this account that the French had re- course to the formation of a corps mounted on dromedaries, which I have already had occasion to notice. By the aid of these ani- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 165 mals, they surprised several of the Bedouin tribes in their retreat ; but not without incurring great risks in penetrating into the de- serts, where they were repeatedly exposed to perish from thirst, the fugitive Arabs leading them in a direction contrary to that of the watering-places, with the position of which they alone were acquainted. The arms of the Bedouins consist of a musket, provided with a match-lock, slung around the arm, a sabre, and a long spear, which they carry in the hand. The latter of these weapons they employ with great effect, when in pursuit of an enemy. Not- withstanding they are themselves armed with muskets, they have a great dread of fire-arms, and abandon the field to their adver- sary, as soon as a few of their party are brought down by the balls. They cannot, therefore, be deemed formidable, when op- posed to troops subjected to any degree of discipline ; and are onlv so when they encounter an unprepared enemy, or one greatly infe- rior in force. The Arabs in general, whether Bedouins or husbandmen, are expert thieves, and are distinguished also by their consummate hy- pocrisy and treachery. Many of the Fellahs have been converted to Christianity, and have engaged themselves as domestics, in which capacity they require a very strict goverment to ensure any thing like obedience. They are, however, excellent grooms, be- stowing a particular attention on the horses committed to their charge. They allow them, in the course of the day, two feeds only of barley and chopped straw; and in supplying them with these meals in the morning and evening, give them a very scanty allowance of water. They have certainly good reasons in favour of this sparing regimen, as is attested by the healthiness and good condition of the Arab horses. The villages in Syria appear to be well peopled; but it is im- possible to form any correct idea of the general population of the country, in consequence of the migrations of its inhabitants from place to place, and of the great proportion of them who reside in tents. Such of the Fellahs as have cultivated their lands with any suc- cess, arc as careful to conceal their little store of riches, as they were industrious in its acquisition. The plea of poverty to which they resort, is not, however, in every case, equally sudces The avaricious Pacha, either personally, or by the means of his instruments, keeps a watchful eve oifeach of the Cultivators, ami l66 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, endeavours to estimate his means. If there is no plausible colour or pretext for the entire confiscation of the property of an indivi- dual on whom the suspicion of riches has fallen, he is callGil on to contribute a sum, perhaps very disproportionate to his means, on the default of producing which, not only his property, but his own life, and those of his relatives, arc brought into danger. Industry is thus discouraged; and to the tyranny exercised over the wretched cultivators may be attributed the neglected state of many large tracts of land, which, under a better form of government, would be abundantly productive. The wooden plough employed here for agricultural purposes, is drawn by a pair of small oxen. The barley and wheat are sown in January, and reaped in May. In difFerent parts of Syria the inhabitants pursue difFerent modes in the treatment of their vines, which in some places they prune nearly to the surface of the earth, depending on the spring shoots for the autumnal produce; while in others thev allow them to attain their full growth, supporting their branches with props. The grapes, when ripe, are in general held in too great an esteem, as a part of the nourishment of the inha- bitants, to be converted into wine; but this is not invariably the case. At Jerusalem and Bethlehem we drank some excellent wine, the produce of the neighbouring vineyards, which were cultivated with much labour and industry. I shall add a few words of general observation on the diseases of Syria, with which I shall close the present digression, and then proceed to the more immediate objects of this narrative. The Syrians are subject to few endemic diseases, of which the psorophthalmy, an inveterate complaint of the eyes, is the pincipal and most common. It prevails so generally, that in the town of Jaffa nearly two thirds of the inhabitants had, from its effects, lost the sight either of one, or of both the eyes; insomuch that the numbers of blind people led about were truly astonishing. It appears to me that the remote causes of this obstinate disease, the effects of which are so calamitous, may be traced to a bad diet; an exposure to a hot air from the white and burning sands, the fine particles of which float almost perpetually in the atmosphere; and, lastly, the confined huts or dwellings in which the inhabitants re- side. In support of the probability of the second of these causes, it has been remarked, that during the season when the figs and grapes ripen, that is, in the months of May, June, and July, when the most intense heat prevails, this disease is most common, SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 1 67 and is accompanied by an unusual malignance. With respect to the latter cause which has been assumed, it should be remarked, that the habitations of the poorer classes of Syrians, to whom the psorophthalmy more particularly attaches itself, are formed of a few stones badly cemented together by the means of mud or dung, and which, having but a small elevation from the soil, rather re- semble cells, or taverns, for the abode of anchorites, than dwel- lings in which the conveniences of social life are consulted. Being utterly destitute of chimnies, or other openings to carry off the smoke, the vapours of the dried camel's dung, which is burned for fueb, disperse themselves in the foul atmosphere by which the wretched inmates are enveloped, and, among other baneful effects, cannot fail to irritate the organ of vision. It is most probably owing to the same cause of the impure air which they inspire in these miserable hovels, that the countenances of the Syrian pea- sants are haggard, squalid, and without that animated glow which denotes an equable circulation of the blood, and a free passage through the excretory channels of the skin. The other diseases most prevalent in Syria are dysentery, cuta- neous eruptions, small-pox, putrid, intermittent, and remittent fe- vers, and, lastly, the plague, which it would appear, however, is generally brought from other countries. The small-pox is fre- quently very fatal among the inhabitants, who, to guard against its ravages, have sometimes recourse to inoculation. In these cases. it is their practice to puncture the arm with a sharp instrument, si- milar to a needle, and to rub on the punctured part the variolous matter taken from a chosen pustule. This mode of inoculation is confined to the Christian Arabs, who are pretty successful in the. result, although they have no recourse to internal reniedies. The malignant fevers generally prevail in the winter season, and during the months of November and December 1800, swept off a great part of the population of Acre. The treatment of diseases employed by the Syrians is as capri- cious and immethodical as confined within narrow limits. They place a great confidence in the use of the lancet; but to this they have recourse in the spring season only of the year. As an argument of the salutary temperature of the air of Syria, the very rare occurrence of pulmonary diseases should be adduced, as well as the numerous instances of longevity among the inha- bitants, who frequently attain the age of an hundred, and, in some instances, of an hundred and ten years, and upwards. Were they 1 63 ■ TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, in a more civilized state,, and united in a social compact under a 2,-ood government, they would become very numerous and pow- erful, the Sj/rian women, who marry very young, being remarkably prolific. CHAPTER XI. The army oj ihe Grand Vizier. Principal officers. Different casts of p&pte. Artificers and attendants. Precarious state of greatness in the Turkish go- vernment. Standards. Dervises. Gross superstition of the Turk.'. Tra- dition relative to the dovonfal of the Turkish e?npire. Origin and present state of the janissaries. The Arnauts. Light cavalry. Volunteers. Reli- gious sectaries e army. Plunderers. Mamelukes. Arabian camel-drivers* Thievish disposition of the Arabs. Tartars. Guards of honour. General character of the Turks ; Personal courage ; Superstition; Temperance ; Addiction to coffee and tobacco ; Games ; Pay and allovjar.ee of the foldiery ; Miserable state of the medical art among the Turks; Horse- vianfhip. THE principal Turkish officers who served in the Ottoman camp, under the command of his Highness the Grand Vi- zier, were as follow : The Seraskier, Mahomed Pacha, a Pacha of three tails. The Charcagis, Taker Pacha, a Pacha of two tails. The Yenecheri Agassi, or Janissary Aga, having the rank of a Pacha of two tails, and the chief command of the janissaries. The Jebigis Bashi, or commissary of stores, a Pacha of one tail. The Topgis Bashi, or commandant of artillery. The Arabahgis Bashi, or superintendant of gun-carriages. The Coombarahgis Bashi, or commandant of bombardiers. The Lakemgis Bashi, or commandant of miners. The Sevmen Bashi, or second in command of janissaries. The Cul Caiyahsi, whose appointment is similar to that of our officers superintending press gangs. '] he Cadi Asker, or military judge (occasionally attached to the Ottoman army). it Etchi Bashi, or Cook Bashi; The Samsoongi^ Bashi, or principal dog; -keeper. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 169 The Zahergis Bashi, or secondary dog-keeper. Besides these there were many others whom it would be super- fluous to mention, and among them several whose presence in the camp was not of the least utility. Of this description are the two personages who stand the last on the list, and whose titles would not have been enumerated, had it not been for the singularity of their appointments. Originally, a certain number of dogs were, in a Turkish army, attached to the troops ; but this practice having been lonrr discontinued, nothing now remains except the rank and emo- luments of the office. That of the Tournahgis Bashi, or bird-keep- er, who had the charge of the birds formerly carried with the army is now become obsolete. The appointments held by the generality of these officers suffici- ently explain the relative importance of their stations. There are, however, one or two of them who are entitled to a particular no- tice. The Cadi Asker is, in his judicial capacity, invested with an of- fice of great dignity and responsibility in the Turkish army. He is the supreme judge ami arbitrator in all disputes and legal questions which may arise, whether of a civil or military nature. It is, not- withstanding, to be presumed, that under so despotic an admini- stration as that of the Turks, more especially where the military is concerned, his awards must be subject to a great degree of con- trol. The Etchi Bashi, or cook of the corps of janissaries, whatever his title may appear to import, has a distinguished consideration in the Turkish army; and, to heighten his importance, carries about him certain marks and characteristic distinctions, which render his appearance highly ludicrous. He is cloathed in a large habit of dark coloured leather, covered over with devices of plated metal, which render it extremely weighty, insomuch, that on days of cere- mony, when he is decorated with all the insignia of his office, what with the pressure of this habit, or tunic, and that of the odier parts of his dress, which, being also covered with plates of metal, are equally cumbrous and oppressive, he requires the aid of two persons to assist him in walking. It is from this officer, who is both feared and respected by his corps, that the janissaries receive the punishment of the coup de baton. In a Turkish army, complexions of every hue, black, copper- colour, olive, tawnv, yellow, and white, are to be found, as well as the different casts of features, and varieties of shape and propor- ( 22 ) IJQ TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, tion, which result from so motly a compound of so many diffe- rent nations indiscriminately brought together. The complexions depend of course on the varieties of the climates whence the dif- ferent corps have been recruited. The Africans are black, with the exception of those who come from the more northern parts of Africa, and who, notwithstanding they have on the head the curl- ed woolly hair of negroes, are of atawney complexion, It has by some been asserted, that they are sprung from colonies imported into the countries they inhabit, from different parts of Europe and Asia. The Egyptians, as well as the inhabitants of Asia, Syria, Diarbcker, &cc. are also dark ortawney. Among the whites may be comprehended, not only the Europeans, but the inhabitants of Natolia, Armenia, Georgia, and Tartary. The Georgians are justly celebrated for the finest complexion and most regular features any where to be found. Many of the Bedouin Arabs differ so much from their countrymen in their complexion, as to be nearly black. So considerable, in a Turkish army, are the numbers of trades- people, attendants, domestics and followers of every denomination, that when it is computed to amount to twenty thousand men, near- ly the half of that number must be subtracted, to form an estimate of its real and efficient force, when brought into the field. Each of the chiefs and pachas is constantly surrounded by a very nume- rous suite of attendants, who keep their eyes steadily fixed on him to catch his nod, and hasten to the execution of his imperious man- dates. By the numbers of his followers, who thus swarm about him, his dignity and respectability are estimated. Amidst all this grandeur, his situation, than which nothing can be more precari- ous, ought not to excite the envy or jealousy of those who act in the subordinate lanks. Should he have signalized himself on a great and trying occasion, it too frequently happens, that his distinguished merit points him out to his superiors as the object of an odious per- secution. PI is views and expectations are thus baffled, and the earliest occasion sought to accomplish his ruin, and to gratify a hateful spirit of revenge. To affect this, he is perhaps ordered to ex- ecute an insurmountable difficulty, in the accomplishment of which having necessarily failed, he is deprived of his employment, de- graded from his rank, robbed of his wealth, and in the midst of his- sufferings may esteem himself happy that his life has been spared by his savage persecutors. The maxim which the Turks have em- SYRIA, EGYPT, -GERMANY, raced, that success gives a divine sanction to all actions, supplies -them with an excuse for the commission of the blackest crimes.- In an Ottoman army, the multitude of useless people to whom I have just alluded, cannot fail to be attended by great inconveni- encies, as well as by the occasional distress resulting from an insuf- ficiency of means. While so marked an attention is bestowed on an ostentatious parade, which might be permitted elsewhere to the luxurious inhabitant of the east, every essential arrangement in the establishment of depots, magazines, &c. is neglected* insomuch, that the horrors of an approaching famine have frequently manifest- ed themselves in the Turkish ranks, as we can testify from ocular observation. Each of the Pachas or chiefs has his respective standard, which is very large; and the dervises, or religious professors, by whom the Turkish army is accompanied, have also their sacred banners, the colour of which is usually green. In addition to this, each of the small companies, consisting of from twenty-five to thirty pri- vates, belonging to the corps of infantry, carries a small flag or banderole. Among the Arnauts these little flags are still more nu- merous. The necessary inference to be drawn from the employ- ment of such a multiplicity of standards, banners, and flags, is, that those who have the charge of them must not only diminish in •a considerable degree, in the field of battle, the effective force which would otherwise have been brought into action, but must even shackle and impede the military operations. How mistaken therefore is the calculation that, independently of the ideas of gran- deur and magnificence which the Turks attach to these trivial ob- jects, they have the effect of inspiring the enemy with terror and dismay? A Turkish camp is lighted up at night by a kind of large lan- terns, formed of iron hoops, and fastened upon long poles. Seve- ral of these lights, in which rags impregnated with grease, oil, or a resinous substance, are burned, are placed in the front of the tent of each of the Pachas. In the disposition of the centinels, as well as in the distribution of the tents, and, in general, in every essen- tial arrangement in which security ought to be studied, the Turks are so extremely negligent and inattentive, as to be constantly ex- posed to a surprise, more particularly in the night-time. In such a case the panic and alarm produced cannot fail to throw every part of the camp into the utmost confusion, since it is impossible to ral- ly, unite and form a whole, where neither order nor method bus 172 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, been studied in the distribution of the parts. There is nothing, in- deed, to obstruct the progress of an enemy who should attempt to penetrate by night, with cautious and wary steps, into the camp, and who by cutting the cords of the tents would be certain to pro- duce a fatal embarrassment among the troops within. "Whether the slaughter which would ensue should be more or less terrible, the ultimate effect of the abandonment of the camp would be the same; and the equipage and artillery would become a sure prey to the as- sailants. The dreadful massacre which occurred on the 17th of September, 1769, arose from the unprepared state of fourteen thou- sand Turks encamped, and the very feeble resistance thev were in consequence enabled to make. Instead of defending themselves, the greater part of them crept under the tents, where they were put to death by the bayonet, without imploring the mercy of their van- quishers. During the late contest in Egypt an equally calamitous scene was witnessed at Aboukir, where many thousands of the Turks who had been routed in their encampment, in attempting a precipitate escape, drowned themselves in the sea. The Turks who are involved in superstition, carry about them, in the camp and in the field, as well as in every other situation, cer- tain talismans, consisting chiefly of verses of the Koran, to which they attach very extraordinary virtues, regarding them as a safe- guard and a protection against every danger by which they may be assailed. They bestow an implicit faith on an ancient prophecy, a part of which, according to their traditions, was found engraven on the tomb of one of their santons, and which is pretty nearly to this ef- fect: " That the Turkish empire will be annihilated by the Russi- " ans ; that the first battle which will be fought between the two " contending powers will be lost by the Ottomans, on the banks of " the Aiester ; that another battle will afterwards be decided " against them in the neighbourhood of Constantinople ; and that " their emperors will be compelled to reside at Damascus." Should thev therefore be overcome, in a future contest with this power, it will not perhaps be owing so much to the imperfect state of their tactics, to their bad conduct in the field, or to the valour of their enemy, as to the chimerical and superstitious ideas they are weak enough to entertain. The origin of such an extraordinary military body as that of the janissaries has justly excited curiosity, yet it will be found nearly similar to that of other establishments. Amurat I. for the better SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C I73 preservation of his empire, found it necessary to establish a formi- dable and well disciplined militia, a part of which was destined for the defence of his own person. He accordingly collected every fifth youth who had attained the age of fifteen years, belonging to the Christian inhabitants of Bulgaria, Macedonia, and the Greek provinces, which were thus rendered tributary in a considerable portion of their rising population. These children were carefully instructed in the Mahomedan religion, and inured for a certain number of years to laborious exercises, by the husbandmen to whose care they were entrusted. They were afterwards trained to the use of arms ; and, to the end that they might be accustomed to the spilling of blood, and their character stamped with a savage fero- city, they were made to exercise their weapons on the bodies of prisoners taken in battle, or on those of condemned criminals. They were styled hadjemoglar, or the children of strangers. This personal tribute to which the Christians were subjected having been at length commuted into a fine, the janissaries were recruited by volunteers, the greater part of whom have been latterly taken from the lowest classes of the people, insomuch rhat they are now in a very degraded state, when compared with what they were at their original establishment. From the words yen i-asker, which, in the Turkish language, imply new levies, the word janissary is derived. However the janissaries, in consequence of deviations from their original institution, may have relaxed from the discipline which in ancient times rendered them so formidable, they may still be con- sidered as the most select and regular of the Turkish troops. They are at the same time better and more uniformly dressed and equip- ped. They carry a short rifle-barrel musket, slung across the shoulder, without a bayonet. The fire of these muskets, the greater part of which are manufactured at Damascus, cannot be very brisk, as they require a considerable time to load. The other arms of the janissaries consist of a large knife, or dagger, and a pair of pistols fastened within the sash which surrounds the waist. In some instan- ces they carry sabres. On particular occasions they wear a large and singular cap of white felt, with a long flap behind, hanging care- lessly down the back, and in the front a brass tube, in which the spoon is intended to be carried for the pilaw. Their trowsers be- ing much narrower than those worn by the Turks in general, are less embarrassing in walking. During the summer their legs are naked, as are also their arms as high as the shoulders. On the feet 174 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY", they wear red slippers, and are occasionally enveloped by a loose cloak. When in their tents they sit and lie on a small Turkey car- pet, or, when this cannot be procured, on a sheep skin. On a march they carry their water either in a tin canteen, or in a leathern bottle. The total amount of these corps has been variously estimated. By some it has been carried to more than an hundred thousand ef- fective men; while others have supposed it not to exceed fortv thousand. Eachoddah, or regiment, has a flag or symbol by which it is distinguished from the others. These symbols are in some in- stances characteristic, as in the case of the thirty-first oddah, or regiment, where the anchor on the flag denotes that this regiment is devoted to the service of the marine. In other cases the symbols are fanciful, representing birds, fishes, animals, sabres, &c. The arms also of the provinces from whence the regiments were origi- nally recruited, and the names of which they bear, are represented occasionally on these colours. The strength of each oddah de- pends in a great measure on its celebrity. The preservation of their colours in battle is not with the janis- saries so much an affair of momentary concern, as that of the large copper kettles, two in number, which are constantly placed in the front of the tents of each regiment, and which are accompanied by a skimmer, a ladle, and a kind of halbert. They have two sets of these cooking utensils, to guard against any accident which may occur ; and they are held so sacred as to be a certain protection to those who seek refuge beneath them. When both sets are lost, the regiment is disbanded. On a march these kettles £re carried in front of each respective regiment. In Constantinople the janissaries form the night guards, and in parading the streets are equipped with heavy sticks, or bludgeons. When, in time of war, they are stationed either in towns or in camps, many of them associate themselves with the trades-people and settlers, to whom, if Christians more especially, they are a protection, and whose custom they are certain to augment bv their influence, while they share their profits. In addition to the ration which is regularlv allowed them, they receive a moderate pay, which does not exceed a crown per month. The mode of the monthly distribution I have already- described. The Yenicheri-Agassi, or generalissimo of these troops, is a per- son of high rank arid consideration, invested with all the dignities SYRIA, EGVPT, GERMANY, &C. 175 tff a Pacha of two or three tails, and having an occasional seat in the divan. Among the other officers are the Choarbagis, or colo- nel, and the Bayractar, or standard-bearer. The title of Seraskier corresponds with that of our commander in chief of the army, and is bestowed on a Pacha commanding an army, with other Pachas who act under him. With the exception of the Aga and Colonel, the Turkish military officers in general are destitute of the respec- tability which is attached to European officers enjoying the same rank. Their promotion being obtained by purchase and favour, ra- ther than by merit, the influence of an individual high in power is alone necessary to raise the most obscure individual in the service to the highest command. I shall add a few observations on such of the Turkish military corps as deserve a particular notice, and then proceed to the narra- tive of the operations of the Vizier's army. The troops which are raised in the Morett, in Macedonia, Bosnia , Sec. are styled Arnauts, ^nd have already been very frequently cited by me on account of their very turbulent and indocile qualities. The corps of infantry into which they are formed are commanded by officers from their respective provinces, which, whenever the Turks are engaged in a war, are drained of a great proportion of their male population, on account of the warlike disposition of the in- habitants, who are trained exclusively to the use of arms, to engage themselves as mercenaries wherever their services may be demand- ed. Eeing inured from their infancy to laborious exercises, they are hardy and vigorous; and the pursuits in which they are enga- ged give them an air of savage fierceness well suited to their cha- racter. Among their other immoral qualities, they are expert thieves. When they are engaged, a sum of money is given to a Pacha, or some other chief, to entertain a certain number of them for a given time. He bestows on each of them a small monthly pay, in addition to which they are supplied, when in the field, by the Turkish government, with biscuit and rice. A Bin-bashi, ha- ving under him several officers of inferior rank, commands a corp of these troops, a thousand strong. Notwithstanding they are in general formed into corps of infantry, several thousands of them were mounted during the last campaign in Egypt. Their dress has some resemblance to the tunic. That of the superior officers is of rich velvet, nicely embroidered with gold. They wear a breast- plate of silver, or white metal ; and in some cases cover the legs with a kind of armour, putting on sandals, to imitate in their dress. 176 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, as nearly as they can, the Spartans, from whom they suppose themselves descended, and whose fierce and martial air they appear to have retained. The head is shaved, except on the middle, or crown, whence a tuft of hair descends, and flows loosely down the back. Over the head is a red skull-cap, which descends low down on the forehead. In general their appearance indicates that they are very negligent and slovenly in their persons. On a long march, and after a considerable absence from their homes, they are often exposed to the greatest misery and distress, of which indeed we were ourselves, on several occasions, witnesses. Amidst the vices in which they indulge, that of gambling is carried to so great an excess, that when they have lost at cards the little money they have in their possession, they frequently stake their fire-arms, and every other description of property. They are great marauders, plunder- ing whatever they can lav their hands on; and so unruly and in- temperate in their passions, which they cannot govern, that they frequently commit assassinations among one another. They speak a language peculiar to themselves, said to have been handed down to them by the ancient lllyrians. Their arms consist of a pair of pistols worn in a sash, with a long handjar knife, or dagger, and a musket with a long barrel. Their pistols and muskets are usually mounted in silver, and much orna- mented. They are without knapsacks, for which, in truth, they have not the smallest occasion. The mode in which they are train- ed from their youth renders them excellent marksmen. In the Turkish cavalry, as well as in the service of the infantry, the soldier provides himself with the arms the most agreeable to his fancy. Frequently, however, the horsemen carry pikes and jave- lins of different lengths, of which the shorter ones are girted on and secured to the saddle. Some of these weapons are six feet or more in length, with an iron point, or ferrule, nearly a foot long, to the bottom of which is attached a tassel made of feathers, or hair. Haying, in training up to discipline, made the djerid exer- cise a principal pursuit and chief amusement, they lance the jave- lin with great force and dexterity. They likewise carry battle-axes, and maces, or clubs, with sabres, and, in some cases, carabines, or rifle-barrel muskets. It seldom happens that bayonets are em- ployed by the Turkish soldiery; but among the cavalry, two, or even a greater number of pistols, ornamented with a silver mount- ing, are placed within the sash, or girdle. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. if? There are two indispensable articles with which a Turkish horseman never fails to provide himself, namely a leathern bottle, or perhaps several, tilled with water, and reaching from the saddle to beneath the belly of the horse; and his pipe, which is fastened in front to the pommel of the saddle. The number of the cavalry is much greater than that of the in- fantry. The horses on which they are mounted are of a greater or less value and estimation, according to the countries from whence they have been procured. In the management of them their ri- ders are very adroit ; and mount with much grace and agility. As is the case with all the Turkish and Arab horsemen, their stirrups are very short. When on a march, the cavalry are not more regular and or- derly than the other Turkish troops. It is said that in battle they do not engage en masst so much as the janissaries, but are more dispersed, it is however certain, that on these occasions each troop or squadron, whatever may be its strength, keeps together without mixing with the other troops. In rushing forward, at a given signal, to encounter the enemy, each of the horsemen ex- claims with vehemence, allah ! allah ! invoking the aid of the Deity to the enterprize. Among the troops of light cavalry the natives of Georgia and Circassia, known under the common appellation of Leghis, are the most conspicuous. They are well proportioned, of a robust make, and have the fine features and complexions for which the above provinces are distinguished. The state of warfare which is constantly kept up between them and the Russian troops stationed on their frontiers, together with the hostilities they carry on among t emsejves in a predatory way, and which are favoured by the mountainous territory they inhabit, have rendered them well cal- culated for a military life. Except that the head is not shaved, and that they wear a sheep-skin cap instead of a turban, their appear- ance is not unlike that of the Tartars. Under the description of volunteers may be comprehended the religious sectaries whose excess of enthusiasm urges them to dis- pose of the little property they possess, and to repair, from every part of the Turkish empire, to the standard of their prophet Ma- homed. But of all the sects the most numerous is the sect of plunderers, who also resort to his standard, in the hope of acqui- ring a greater booty than ihey could reasonably expect elsewhere. ( 2j ) 2 yg TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Ev the word Mameluke is implied a native of a distant region. Accordingly, the Mamelukes, who made so conspicuous a figure in history some centuries ago, who recently distinguished themselves in the French invasion of Egypt, and whom I have had repeated occasions to notice in speaking of the army of the Grand Vizier, are either Georgian or Circassian slaves hrought into Egypt; with the exception, however, of a few among them, whose dark and swarthy countenance announces, as well as the cast of their fea- tures, that they are of Nubian origin. It is necessary that every individual Mameluke should have been a slave, to arrive at the highest dignities, such as Bey, &c. The climate of Egypt, or some other cause, however, is extremely unfavourable to the de- scendants of the Mamelukes. They are generally short lived. It is said that these can never be permitted to enjoy the elevated situ- ations among the Mamelukes. The children of Europeans also, who are settled in the country, are unhealthy, and are reared with the greatest difficulty. There was a time when the more successful and more enterprising of the Mamelukes rose to the highest dignities in Egypt, from the office of Bey to that of Sheick-el-belled, or Supreme Governor; but the ascendency they had acquired in that country has been lat- terly much diminished. The numbers of those by whom the army of the Grand Vizier was augmented were comparatively few, but they were entitled to more confidence than the generality of the troops. The Arabian camel-drivers, who are not furnished, like the Turkish soldiers, with tents for their lodging and accommodation, w.ule on the march, are reduced to the necessity of forming, at the expiration of each day's march, a ring or circle, by the means of the saddles and other furniture of their camels, near to whom they are constantly stationed for their safety and protection. Within this circle they make a fire with the dung of the animals, dried roots, withered shrubs, &c. and with all possible hilarity hover over this fire in the evenings, to partake of such amusements as their leisure mav suggest. On these occasions they sing, dance, and relate sto- ries, some of which are of an hour's duration. While a part of them are engaged in dancing, the others beat time to them by clap- ping their hands. When, on the marches we had occasion to make in Syria and Egypt, their camels were laden with our baggage, we never enter- tained the smallest apprehension respecting the probity of these SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 179 Arabs. No sooner, however, were the animals eased of* their burthens, than their drivers considered that they had executed their trust, and that whatever they could lay their hands on was fair game. This propensity to theft, which is common to the Arabs of every description, demanded on our side the utmost vigilance, as well during our marches as in the encampment, where the noc- turnal robberies which so frequently occurred, were traced to the same source of Arabian rapacity. In the course of my narrative repeated mention has been made of the Tartars, who are entrusted with public despatches. A certain number of these Tartars, under a Khan, or chief of their own nation, were constantly stationed with the army of the Grand Vi- zier, to receive his Highness's commands, and to proceed on the different missions which the public business might require. are despatched in this way, not only from the armies, but from the capital, to every part of the Ottoman dominions, and are as quiet and well behaved, as they are remarkable for their fidelity. Instead of a turban, they wear a yellow calpack, round the inferior parr of which is a broad band of black cloth. They are a strong and hardy race, capable of enduring the greatest fatigues, and perform their journies with remarkable celerity, seldom or never sleeping on the route. They are provided with a firman, or order, which enables them, in the towns through which they pass, to make re- quisitions for horses, and whatever besides may be necessary for their further progress; and with these demands the governors, ma- gistrates, and others, are bound strictly to comply. The Vizier was, as well as several of his principal officers, at- tended by a description of guards of honour, styled bostangis, a word which in its literal sense, implies gardeners. At Constanti- nople they are very numerous, and form the body guard of the Sul- tan, whose barge is entrusted to their management whenever there is a public procession by water. Their chief, the Bostangi Bashi, holds an appointment of great trust, being invested not only with the civil jurisdiction of the seraglio, but also with that of the vil- lages on each side of the Bosphorus. I shall close these details by a few general remarks on the Turks more particularly as far as regards their military character. That the Turks possess a considerable share of personal courage is beyond a doubt : it is therefore to be lamented, that this quality should be rendered useless, or even pernicious, by the superstition into which they are plunged, as well as by all the radical vices of l80 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, their government. They are hardy, temperate, patient under af- flictions, and upright in their dealings. Having been accustomed from an early age to an abstemious mode of living, and innred to hardships, those of the inferior classes are well calculated for a mi- litary life. Their customary diet consists of a small portion of bread or biscuit, with a scanty allowance of cheese, onions, olives, and oil, whenever either or any of these articles can be procured. It occurs but seldom that they can gratify themselves by an indul- gence in animal food; and in such cases they are very fond of a pi- law, consisting of a strong gravy made from mutton, fowls, &cc. in which a proportion of boiled rice is stewed. This luxury, how- ever, but seldom falls to the lot of the military by whom the Turkish ranks are filled, and who have recourse to other and less costly gratifications, the principal of which are coffee and tobacco. The former thev drink in as strong an infusion as possible; and to the use of the latter they are so much addicted, that the pipe is the inseparable companion of many of the women even among the lower ranks of the Turks. Wine being prohibited bv the Koran, the usual beverage of every class of Mussulmen is water; but when- ever they can prevail on themselves to overcome their religious scru- ples so far as to indulge in the use of wine or spirits, they swal- low them so copiously, and with such eagerness, that, in the in- toxication which follows, they become noisy and riotous in the extreme. The game of chess, which is not prohibited like gambling with cards or dice, is one of their amusements in the camp, as well as in the towns. They are likewise very fond of singing, which is generally performed in a harsh and discordant tone, without any modulation of the voice. In addition to this scanty allowance of bread, or biscuit and rice (and of barley for his horse, if belonging to the cavalry), the Turk- ish soldier is allowed from five to ten aspers, that is, from a penny to two-pence, English, per day. With this wretched stipend he is obliged to supply himself with tobacco, coffee, onions, olives, Sec. When sick, he has little to expect from medical skill or at- tendance, and can place as small a dependance on the administra- tion of the necessary remedies, which are very rarely supplied to combat his disease. 1 was acquainted with four surgeons belonging to the army of the Grand Vr/ier, three of whom were Italians, whose practice was chiefly confined to the pachas and commanders of the different corps. They fell victims to their professional duties. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. l8l The fourth was a Turk, whose skill in medical science correspond- ed with that of the greater part of his countrymen who had embra- ced the same pursuit. As well in camp as in every other situation, the Turks attend regularly to their prayers five times in the course of the day, at sun- rise, at nine in the. morning, at noon, at four in the afternoon, or two hours before sun-set, and at the setting of the sun, Before each prayer they invariably wash their feet, hands, and face, and having spread their little carpet in the tent, make their prostrations, and go through their devout exercises. After their second prayer, at nine in the morning, they breakfast; and delay their dinner until the last, or sun-set prayer has been repeated. These are the only meals of the lower classes of the Turks. The Seis, or Arab groom, is generallv preferred by the Turks, on account of his skill and address in the management of horses. The Turks themselves are, however, little inferior to the Arabs in this qualification, and pay a particular attention to the animals entrusted to their care, the bodies of which are constantly covered either with a thick cloth to defend them from the weather and from the bites of insects, or with the saddle. Whether in the stable, or without door at picket, the horses of the Turkish cavalry are kept closely girthed, and fettered or tethered, and equipped at all points for service. It is by no means uncustomary to see a Turk on horseback ride full speed up to another who is also mounted, and having dischar- ged his pistol in the air, suddenly stop his horse. He does this as a very high compliment, and to evince not only his own skill in horsemanship, but the confidence he reposes in his horse, over whom he has a perfect command. This mode of paving a compliment is certainly calculated to excite a considerable degree of alarm and apprehension in a stranger who witnesses it for the first time, and it may be attended with some danger to one who is not very perfect in horsemanship. Notwithstanding the precepts of their exclusive religion have rendered this nation haughty and imperious, many of the Turks of a distinguished rank display in their social intercourse, great urbapity and courtesy of manners. I 82 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, CHAPTER XII. Narrative resumed. Breaking up of the camp at Jaffa. March of the army. New encampment. Account of General Mustapha, alias Campbell. Sin- gular fail relative to the plague communicated by Gn the 12th, that Salahieli had been ta- ken possession of by Taker Pacha, and by the troops who had quitted the encampment a few days before. It appeared that an. the approach of the Turkish forces, the French, about five hun- dred strong, had made a precipitate retreat towards Cairo. Pre- vious to their departure, they had destroyed the works in the inte- rior of the place, and set fire to the buildings. A French deserter, who came into camp, and surrendered him- self to the Vizier, reported, that he h ad left Damietta four days before, having travelled alone, and on foot, from Tineh; and re- mained during three days without water. He represented the- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, 0£C. 203 F remit at Da mid (a as being in such critical circumstances, that they would rejoice at the approach of the Turkish army, to furnish them with a pretext for relinquishing the place. A salute was fifed in the camp on the occasion of the capture of Saluhieh, an account of which was transmitted over land to the commander in chief- of the British forces. During the night we lost the greater part of the camels, together with their drivers, who had fled to the mountains. This unfortu- nate evenc was likely to subject the army to great risks, and very serious difficulties, since our speedy departure from El-Arish was thus rendeicd impracticable. Detachments of cavalry were on the 13th, sent off in their pursuit. Thus, with the above loss, the oc- casional deprivation of provisions, the plague, and the frequent in- testine quarrels among the Turkish soldiery, we were surrounded, in our forlorn situation in the desert, by a train of threatening evils, among which may be enumerated, pestilence, and famine, and bat- tle, and murder, and sudden death. Several vessels anchored in the road. It was reported that a part of those which had been driven off by the late gales, had been wrecked on the adjacent coast. A considerable number of vessels laden with corn came to anchor on the 14th. To enable us to pass the desert with greater ease, it was determined to send the spare tents and heavy baggage by water to Tineh. For this purpose eleven tents, and such of the baggage as was not indispensably necessary to the mission, were embarked on board a 'Turkish vessel bound to that place, together with gun- ner Foster, and the whole of the civil artificers, whose services would not be necessary in the interim. Five tents only were re- tained for the party. The Vizier and principal Turkish officers at- tended on the beach, to superintend the embarkation of the artillery and stores destined for Tineh, as well as to prevent any confusion which might result from the landing of the barley. After such an interval of distress as had been experienced in the carnp, it was na- tural to presume that the troops would manifest great impatience on the landing of the supplies. The camels which had been carried off by their drivers were still missing. Two hundred, however, of these animals were brought in on the 15th by a sheick, who, after having received a handsome present, set off with his camels and people in the night ; at which time a hedski, the property of one of the dragomen belonging to the mission, was stolen. 204 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, An 'English schooner, commanded by Lieutenant Milne, ar- rived on the 1 7 th , having on board Major Missett, with de- spatches. We learned through this channel that Major M'lierras, of the engineers, had been killed, and Major Fletcher made pri- soner, in a reconnoitring party on the water, previously to the landing of the British army. A French fleet with seven thousand troops was expected at Alexandria from Toulon. L 'A ' frkaine, one of the frigates belonging to this fleet, had been captured by the English frigate the Phoebe, Captain Bar loin). The English, under the command of Colonel Spencer, and the Turks, with the Capi- tan Pacha, were before Rosetta, which was expected to fall very speedily. An overland despatch to the two British commanders in chief was sent off by an Arab-, and an order transmitted by the Vizier to Mahomed Pacha, to send a body of Turkish cavalry to act with the British army. At six in the morning of the 19th the trumpet was sounded to prepare for the march. In consequence of the scarcity of camels, the Vizier was to move forward with a part only of the Turkish army. For the same reason the party belonging to the mission to march with the Vizier's detachment, was confined to Colonel Ilolloway, Major Hope, Mr. Whiteman, secretary, Mr. Pink, draughtsman, myself, a Serjeant, and five men. The others were to follow with the remainder of the Turkish army, as soon as beasts cf burden could be procured. Strict orders were given to keep a watchful eye over the camel-drivers, in crossing the desert, as there was a possibility of their deserting with their camels — a disaster which would expose the whole of the army to the risk of perish- ing on its passage. The Vizier quitted the ground of encampment at noon ; and at three in the afternoon we followed. Prior to our departure, Major Missett embarked for Aboukir, with answers from the Vi- zier and Colonel II allow ay to the despatches with which he was charged. After a very agreeable march of two hours along the sea-shore, we arrived at the wells of Messoudieh, the place where the travel- ler takes his supply of water, before he proceeds to cross the re- maining part of the desert. Neither habitation nor inhabitant was to be seen ; nor was there so much as the appearance of brush- wood to diversify the surface of the arid sands. It was with diffi- culty that a few dried vegetables could be raked together to heat a SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 205 little coffee. By digging wells in the sands to the depth of two or three feet, water was, however, readily procured : and notwith- standing we were so near to the sea-shore, it was good and sweet. As the route from this station to Catieh occupies three days, in the course of which ho drinkable water can be procured, it was neces- sary to make an appropriate provision of this necessary article; and for this purpose we were furnished with the skins of goats pro- perly prepared. The camels and other animals were laden with biscuit, barley, and water, the three' essentials for the crossing of the desert. The Reis EfFendi, who came up after us with the remainder of the Turkish army, informed us that when the troopls commanded by TaJwr Pacha arrived at S'alahieh, they pursued the enemy, several of whom they killed in their flight. Among the pursuers, there were several Moors, who were well mounted, and very ex- pert in the use of their fire-arms, which they discharge with great effect when on full speed. Their chief was unfortunately killed in the attack. At midnight our baggage was sent off under an escort; and at six in the morning of the 20th, we proceeded on our route. At the expiration of two hours and a half we halted for three quarters of an hour ; and at half past one reached our new ground of en- campment, Barrahcat, where we immediately pitched our tents. This spot had been evidently the bed of a salt lake in past ages, large quantities of marine shells lying scattered on its surface, to- gether with much saline matter. We took the precaution to dig wells ; but the water was so salt and brackish, as. to be unfit for the cattle. On subjecting it t6 an analysis, I found it to contain a large proportion of common salt. The progress we had made on this day's march was about fifteen miles; and in pursuing our route we were gratified by the view of the surprising visual deception, which the French term mirage, and which has been described with great ingenuity by Mange, of the French National Institute. It is pe- culiar to the desert, and presents the distant appearance of water with such an air of truth and reality, that the shadows of the ca- mels who were in advance, seemed to be reflected on the apparent watery surface. To give a more extraordinary effect to the illusion, the bodies of these animals appeared to be narrowed and elongated upwards, so as to give them the appearance of trunks of trees, the branches of which had been lopped off. The most elevated of the distant sand hills represented light clouds ; while the smaller one* 206 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, appeared like ships under a press of sail in the midst of beautiful lakes. This phenomenon was more particularly apparent on the levels, which were in some parts covered with a saline substance, finely crystallized, and very shining and brilliant. A portion of this saline matter 1 collected for future experiments. We left our ground on the 21st, at between three and four in the morning; and, as it was not yet day-light, were preceded by guides carrying torches. We lost our way, notwithstanding, and were detained for nearly two hours. During this day's march we made two halts ; and at length, at half past four in the afternoon, reached our ground of encampment at Bir-el-habt, after a very laborious and fatiguing march of thirty miles. Great numbers of skeletons of camels, horses, and other animals were scattered on the route. The earlier part of our march was tolerably agreeable, with the exception of our having lost our way ; but during the last nine miles we had to pass over very heavv sands, and an uneven ground. The heat of the weather was at the same time very op- pressive. We were, however, enabled to procure a supply of brackish water for the cattle. In the evening the Topgis and Deh- lis moved from the ground with their guns. I could distinguish the notes of the nightingale on our march : they were very short, and much inferior to those of the same bird in England. Several plants and a few flowers were scattered at intervals. At this time intelligence reached the encampment, that the ad- vanced Ottoman army was at Korin and Belbeis. We marched at six in the morning of the 22d, and at noon reached Theah, distant from Catieh about a mile and a half. The route thither was very heavy and irregular, insomuch that to per- form a distance of fifteen miles we were under the necessity of ma- king two halts. In the vicinity of our encampment there were se- veral fine date-trees. The wells in general contained good water ; but in one of them it was black and offensive, like that which is procured at Ilarrowgate. The Turks asserted that the French had thrown into it a quantity of gunpowder. On our route great numbers of carcasses were scattered. We were met by a messenger from Mahomed Pacha, who transmitted the information that, Tineh had been taken possession of by a de- tachment of Turkish cavalry. In abandoning the ?.bcve place, the French had left behind two guns, and a quantity of barley, and <*tber stores. The two Pachas were still at Belbeis and Korin, at SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 207 the latter of which places, according to the contents of a letter from Captain Lacey, a great mortality, supposed to be occasioned b*y the plague, prevailed among the Turks. It was more probably, hqwever, owing to constant fatigues, and the want of a good nou- rishing diet. The earJv part of the morning had been clouded over, which ren- dered the heat less oppressive ; but at ten o'clock, when we were within two hours march of our destination, the heat suddenly be- came so extremely intense, that, to use a vulgar, but expressive phrase, we were literally broiled by the sun as we trod the scorch- ing sands. The appearance of the desert was here, however, much improved : We met with several plants and flowers on our way, together with a few date-trees ; and in approaching Thcah, found a greater proportion of green shrubs than we had encountered in any other part of the desert. In several of the hollows there was a suf- ficient degree of moisture to promote vegetation ; and in these spots there is no doubt but that good water might be procured with little trouble. The numbers and varieties of the birds which were flying about them, were a strong evidence of the truth of this observa- tion. It appeared that a village had once stood on the site of our en- campment, fragments of red bricks, &c. being scattered over the surface of the sands. In the Arabic language also, Thcah implies a village ; but we could not discover the vestiges of anv buildings. The wells were situated beneath a groupe of fine diHe-trecs. It was the intention of the Vizier to halt at this place for two days, to give time for the artillery and stragglers to come up, as well as to allow some repose to his army, which had had to perform a haras- sing march of nearly seventy miles, in the space of four days, over what was certainly to be considered as the worst part of the desert, in consequence of the difficulty of procuring water after quitting the wells of Messoudich. A party of camels proceeded to Tinch in the evening, to bring back a further supply of barley and biscuit. They returned in the afternoon of the following day ; and in the evening Colonel llollo- way sent, with the authority of the Grand Vizier, a summons to the fort of Lcsbie at Damiclla. It was conveyed by Mr. Pink, accompanied by a Turkish secretary, provided by the Reis Ef- fendi. The purport of the answer brought back was, that the French commandant would not accept the terms held out to him. 208 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, I employed myself on the 24th in examining the waters 1 had collected at the different places at which we had stopped in our pas- safe through the desert, and collected the residuous matter for f\U tare experiments. r X'hat which I had obtained from Thick was of excellent quality, and having been found in the basin of the Cas- t e evacuated by the French, I conjectured it to have bee?n brought from the Nils-. In .the evening two hundred and fifty camels laden with barley arrived from Mahomed Pacini. By this opportunity letters were received from Captains Laccy and Leake. Taker Packa had ad- vanced two miles beyond Belbeis. On the 25th we rose at half past two in the morning, and at three o'clock the baggape moved off the ground. We were, how- ever, detained until near eight o'clock by some arrangements it was necessary to make for sending off a party cf camels to Tineh ; and the interval which elapsed hung very heavily on our hands. At ten o'clock we halted for neariy an hour, and reached our ground, of encampment at Bir-denedar at two o'clock, after having per- formed a march of eighteen miles. There were several date-trees on the spot; and the red bricks which lay scattered on the grounds indicated that it had been formerly covered by dwellings. The water which we found at this place was salt, bitter, and of the worst quality. The weather was extremely hot during our march, which, being over a rough and uneven ground, covered with deep and heavy sands, was performed with infinite fatigue. There was, however, a greater abundance of shrubs than we had met with on our preceding marches. Half an hour after we had quitted our iate encampment, we passed over a very rough piece of ground, which, being covered with large quantities of saline matter, ap- peared to have been a salt work. Several pits in which the salt water had been left to evaporate, had been apparently dug out for that purpose, and still contained a quantity of pure and white salt. Many of the date-trees in the vicinitv of Catieth lay on the ground, having been cut down by the French for various purposes on their retreat from Syria. In the course of the day's march the Vizier sent forward a party of Dehlis to prepare a causeway over a river, which had formerly been provided with a capacious btone. bridge. To impede the pro- gress of the Ottoman army, the enemy had thrown down this bridge ; but the impediment was sQon removed by the Dehlis, who effected their purpose in the course of a few hours. The SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 20$ river had apparently been formed by the Nile in its periodical in- undation. Some authentic intelligence having been received relative to the enemy's movements, it was judged necessary to be very particular in the arrangements for the artillery, for which purpose Major Hope gave several necessary directions. Sheick Hassan arrived in the afternoon with despatches from Admiral Blanket, who had obtained possession of Suez. These despatches were instantly forwarded to the British commanders in chief. About the same time we received the intelligence of the death of Mourad Bey, to whose command Elphi Bey had suc- ceeded. We rose at two in the morning of the 26th, and set out at five. After a march of two hours and a half, we met with large pieces of. water, which had been in several places formed into lakes and rivulets by the overflowing of the Nile. It was brackish, and far from being of a good quality. In this part of the desert there was a great quantity of green brush-wood. The ground was more level, with a less proportion of sand, and the travelling by no means disagreeable. At eight o'clock we halted for half an hour; and at ten o'clock passed the river over which the causeway had been thrown. At eleven o'clock we reached the ground destined for our encampment at Kantara, and found there plenty of good water, together with shrubs and grasses for the cattle. As an abundance of pigeons and ducks were flying, I took my gun and shot several of the former, which were highly acceptable to our mess, we being reduced to the spare diet of bread, coffee, and a little rice. In consequence of the advices which were received of the capture of Rosetta by the combined British and Turkish forces, the Vizier fired a feu de joye and royal salute. We rose at half past two on the 27th, and at five o'clock were on foot. We halted twice, about an hour each time, during our inarch, and arrived at Salahieh at noon. The latter part of the route was very sandy and laborious. On our approaching Sala- hieh the quantity of shrubs gradually diminished, and at length to- tally disappeared, insomuch that we could not procure sticks for fuel to boil our coffee. The aspect of the country which imme- diately surrounded us was dreary, consisting entirely of an exten- sive desert plain, or level ; but to the westward and northward of Salahieh lay immense woods of date-trees, which extended for ( 27 ) 2IO TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, several miles. We were encamped to the south of the fort, at the distance of nearly a mile. On the approach of the Grand Vizier to Salahieh, his High- ness halted under a grove of date-trees, to arrange the manner iia which he should make his public entry, as well as the form of his encampment. The Turkish army afterwards marched in the fol- lowing order :— First, a line of cavalry, small parties of horse- men riding up and down in front of the line, and firing while on full speed. Next another line, of Arnauts, with the led horses of his Highness, and the priests, or imaums, singing hvmns. Next followed Colonel Holloway, Major Hope, Sec. the Turkish offi- cers of state in succession, and his Highness the Vizier, with his bands of music, and attendants. And lastly, a body of cavalry, Dehlis, closed the rear. Thus had we surmounted a troublesome, fatiguing, and hazar- dous march across the desert (a distance of about one hundred and fifty miles from Kahnyounes to Salahieh), but not without the loss of many animals, and several men. The lamentable scenes which occasionally presented themselves were truly distressing to a feeling mind. During the tedious and harassing marches to which we had been subjected, it was found that in particular places which pre- sented the greatest difficulties, the horses were not capable to drag the artillery. In these cases the camels were resorted to with great effect and advantage, in consequence of their very docile nature and steady draught. As soon as we had reached Salahieh, the Arabs brought into the encampment for sale a variety of articles of food, which were purchased with great eagerness by the half famished military. They also brought in straw and unthrashed barley for the cattle. The harvest had been very abundant; but such had been the losses which the population had sustained by war and diseases, that the corn, although ripe, had not yet been got in. The inundation of the preceding year had been remarkably high, and had produced very- abundant crops. The Vizier fired a royal salute on his arrival. At ( -ux in the af- ternoon there was a smart breeze from the south, accompanied by a gentle fall of rain. The horizon was at the same tune obscured ; and the air so close and sultry as to be productive of much oppres- sion and languor. I walked in the evening to a small village inhabited by Arabs, who reside in huts constructed of mud and canes, and the tops, of SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 21 1 which are covered with reeds, branches of date-trees, and other similar materials. Nothing could he more wretched than the pic- ture which these huts, and those who dwelt in them, afforded. Their proprietors were not, however, without their resources. They raised poultry; and having herds of cows, goats, and sheep, were thus enabled to supply the troops with milk, yourt, eggs, cheese, and butter. They were consequently very serviceable neighbours. The above articles were cheap on our arrival; but, as is always customary in camps, there was little doubt but their price would soon be advanced. The ground being in part covered by grasses produced by the late inundation, presented a verdant surface, which had an agreeable effect on the sight, accustomed as it had been to the vivid reflection from the burning sands in crossing the desert. The civil artificers who had been sent round by water, arrived on the 28th from Tineh, having left behind the principal part of the baggage, in consequence of their precipitate departure from the vessel on board of which they had been embarked. We were un- der some apprehension for the safety of our baggage. We partook this day of the flesh of a young buffalo, which we found good and palatable. The inundation of the part of the de- sert surrounding Salahith is explained in the following manner by the Turks. On the overflowing, they say, of the AV/tf, the earth becomes fully impregnated with water, which, being forced up to the surface, exudes from beneath, and overflows the grounds. In passing through the strata of earth, it meets with portions of saline matter, which it dissolves, and thus acquires ks briney taste. Being afterwards evaporated by the heat of the sun, it deposits, on the surface of the earth, its salt, and forms the salt lakes which are met with at different intervals. It grievpd me to notice that the disease of the eyes, so common in Syria., prevailed also in this par; of Egypt. Persons of every age were alike subject to its attacks; and, independently of the nu- merous cases of blindness I observed, the inhabitants in general dis- played, in their meagre and wan countenances, a predisposition to this and other diseases. On the appearance of the Turkish army, the five hundred French who were in the fortress of Salahich, fled; not with so much pre- cipitation, however, but that they found time to destroy a con 7 siderable part of the interior of the work and detached buildings. It possesses considerable *r.re,ngth, and is provided with a wet 2I 2 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ditch, well palisadoed. Sixteen guns appeared to have been mounted ; and a part of these were found spiked among the ruins, together with several shells, &c. which had been thrown into the well. Within the fort is a mosque, the lofty minaret of which had served for a look-out. There had also been excellent bar- lacks, now in ruins, within the fortress: it appeared to me that they were capable of receiving a thousand men. Considering that it was built in a plain, this fortress is of a very extraordinary construction. Further arrangements and new dispositions were made for the Turkish artillery, and such other precautions taken as our approach towards the enemy rendered necessary. Major Hope quitted the encampment on the 30th, on his way to Cairo, with propositions from his Highness the Vizier and Colonel Holloway to the French commandant of that place. The Major was accompanied by the Secretary to the Sublime Porte. Lieutenant Milne, of the Goza schooner, arrived at noon, with overland despatches from Ttneh. He set out on his return on the following day, at which time a despatch from Admiral Blanket was received and forwarded to the British commander in chief. Other despatches were also forwarded to the admiral by Sheick Greckled, who was directed to transact the business in that quarter for the British forces. On the 2d of May I found in my tent the dried skeleton of a large reptile, apparently a species of the lizard, which, notwith- standing it had lost its tail, measured eighteen inches from the head to the stump of that part. It had four legs, with five toes on the fore {eet, and four on the hind feet, sharply pointed. The. surface of the body was seal v. The period was now arrived for the fall of the rains in Ethiopia ; and it was certain that their effects would be soon manifested in Egypt, bv the rising of the Nile, and the general inundation of the country. A loose, dry, and sandy soil is in this way render- ed so fertile and productive, that it is said the inhabitants are oc- casionally obliged to mix sand with the new soil, produced by the overflowing of the waters, to temper its too rich and luxuriant quality. The heat was very oppressive on the 3d, when the kampsin pre- vailed, and induced great debility and faintness. 1 took a morning's ride into the country, and passed through several extensive woods ©f date-trees, among which I saw a variety of villages composed of SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, CCC. 2IJ the same wretched mud huts with those I have already described. Beneath the shade of the date-trees the inhabitants raise barlev on extensive levels, on which they also grow tobacco. The corn was ripe, but not yet cut down. Several of the levels were still mar- shy, owing to the late inundation, which had destroyed some of the plantations of barley and tobacco. The cows and bullocks were fine, and of a large breed, with short horns. I noticed se- veral buffaloes, which were of a grey colour, and very unsightly in their appearance. The inhabitants were in tattered garments, which scarcely covered their nakedness, miserably pale and wan, and as wretched as the dwellings which served them for a shelter. The women had the face covered with a piece of dirty linen. They are inured to the laborious employments of the field, and carry on the head heavy burdens, such as loads of provender for the cattle, &c The melons are said to grow here to a very large size, and to be finely flavoured. In one of the villages I saw this fruit in blossom. Instead of being thrashed, the corn is trodden, as in Turkey. Our party which had accompanied the Tefterdar, arrived on the 5th from FA-Arish ; and at the same time Major Hope, and the secretary to the Sublime Porte, arrived from Cairo, with the reply of the French General Beliard. In the afternoon of the Cth we had a sudden f grace. ( 34) -66 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, The inhabitants of Grand Cairo, like those of the other cities anci towns of Egypt, are a mixture of Arabs, Copts, or ancient Egyp- tians, Greeks, Armenians, Turks, and Mamelukes. The Arabs arc considered as by far the most numerous class, which is indeed the case in every part of Egypt. The number of the Christian residents is very inconsiderable. Arabic, which is the language of the country, is almost exclusively spoken at Cairo, the Copts, the aborigines of Egypt, having, through disuse, almost entirely lost their own language. It is true that their priests, in the performance of the mass and other religious ceremonies, employ Coptic books ; but I was assured by several of the inhabitants of Cairo, on whose testimony I could rely, that they are not in general acquainted with the language. The Arab inhabitants of Cairo are a very active race, well pro- portioned, and of a slender make. In all the laborious occupations the females of the inferior class take an active part, and have a dark, sallow complexion, with features calculated to excite disgust. They marry when very young, and have a numerous offspring; but their wretched condition of life exposes their children to a great mortality. The appearance of the latter, and indeed of the newly born infants, is truly distressing. The countenance is sallow, flac- cid, and of a cadaverous hue ; and the eyes affected by ophthalmia, to whieh disease they are subject from their earliest infancy. They are also much exposed to mesenteric enlargements. The children, even of the superior classes of Europeans, such as merchants, set- tled at Cairo, have a pallid and sickly appearance, and are reared with great difficulty. In general, the young are swept off in great numbers by the small-pox. The frequency, indeed, of disease, and the great mortality which commonly prevails among the lower classes of the inhabitants, are unquestionably to be ascribed to the very filthy state in which they live, and to the want of a proper nourishment, which latter cause affects more particularly the tender condition of the infants. The parade which attends the marjiage ceremonies at Cairo I have already attempted to describe. The Mahoniedans take one or several wives, according to their condition, and the circumstan- ces in which they are placed. The dress of the men belonging to the lower class of Arabs consists of a blue cotton chemise, with a broad leathern belt fasten- ed round the loins, and a white or coloured shawl twisted round the head in the form of a turban. They wear neither shoes m>r SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. l6j stockings. Their Sheicks have a large blue checkered or plaid handkerchief which hangs loosely down from one of the shoul- ders ; and wear slippers on the feet. The dress of the women of the same class is equally simple, con- sisting also of a long blue chemise, without either slippers or stock- ings. A piece of black silk answers the purpose of a veil so effec- tually, that scarcely any part of the face, the eyes excepted, can be seen. The eye-lids are blackened with a pigment made of the tesselated ore of lead, which in the country is called, alquifoux j and the chin is stained of a blue colour. The fingers are dyed of a red or deep orange colour with the leaves of the henna; and on the wrists bracelets of coloured glass are worn, with large rings on the fingers. The ears are ornamented with rings, from which pie- ces of money are occasionally suspended. The women of a superior rank in life dress nearly in the Turk- ish style. At times they wear a large black mantle, which in a great measure covers the whole of the body, and reaches down to the heels. Among the different articles manufactured in that city, the white and coloured cottons, the shawls, and the silk and woollen hand- kerchiefs should be noticed, together with a variety of articles of t&Hery and embroidery, the latter of which arc executed with great taste and elegance. The saddles, holsters, and pouches for ammunition, as well as those to contain the Koran, which the Mahomcdans carry con- stantly about them, are principally employed by the Mamelukes and Turks of distinction, and are extremely handsome. The great- er part of the saddles and holsters are covered with rich velvet, embroidered in gold with much neatness and even elegance. The manufacture of silken cords, which are attached to the sa- bre instead of a belt, as well as to the pair of pistols slung across the shoulders, and the demand for which is very great, gives em- ployment to a very considerable number oi persons at Cairo. These cords are likewise employed by the Arab groom, or Seis, as braces to fasten the large loose sleeves of his shirt, and prevent them falling beneath the elbows, the lower part of the arm being constantly naked. The genuine sabre blades sold at Cairo, and which are held in the highest estimation, are very costly. As they are however ex- tremely brittle, the management of them requires particular atten- tion,, They arc brought from Damascus and Persia, from the :i 68 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, former of which places the hest musket barrels are also procured. In the choice of their sabres, the Turks resident in Egypt are,- PS well as the Mamelukes, very fanciful and capricious, but per- haps not so much so as in the selection of their horses, for the purchase and sale of which Grand Cairo is a great, matt. If, for instance, a horse should have a small curl, or several curls of hair beneath the mane, or in a particular part of the face, the value of the animal is greatly enhanced in the eye of the purchaser, who is extremely circumspect in his search after these favourite and parti- cular marks. Among the articles exported to Europe from Egypt, and which are also common to Turkey, may be comprehended rice, coffee, different dyes, such as the henna and carthamus, a variety of drugs and medicinal gums, raw and other silks, oil, soap, leather, &c. together with dates, almonds, and other dried fruits. Of the amusements of Grand Cairo, such as they present them- selves without doors to all the classes of its inhabitants, the princi- pal consists in the exhibition of the almes, or dancing girls, who attract crowds of the populace in the squares, streets, and places of public resort. These dissolute and abandoned females have the face uncovered, which, in the countries of the east, is accounted in the women a certain indication of the most notorious profligacy. Their. attire, which is well calculated to display the form e£ the person and limbs, is thrown on with a most indecent negligence. The movements of these young females, in dancing, are rapid, and dis- play a greater share of pliancy and suppleness of the limbs, than of grace. Towards its close the dance becomes more animated, and is accompanied bv gestures, motions, and contortions of the body still more indecent than at the commencement. The perform- ance is usually confined to two of these females ; but on parti- cular occasions the number is more considerable. On the thumb and fore finger of each hand they wear the small cups called cas- tanets, much in use in Spain in dancing the fandango, with which they beat time to the sound of the musical instruments, consisting either of a hautboy or of a kind of flute, accompanied by a tam- bourine. A concert, which is bv no means either melodious or agreeable, follows the dance. This is a great source of gratification to the people of Cairo, as well as to the lower classes of the population of ail the towns and villages of Egypt, where it seldom happens that these dancing girls are not to be met with in the streets and places of public resort. The SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 269 more respectable of the inhabitants introduce them into their hou- ses, and even into their harems, where they give lessons of grace to. the females, without a dread of the latter being contaminated by the notorious profligacy of their morals. The jugglers are also highly attractive, and perform their trie! tp and deceptions with- as much dexterity as the greater part of the conjurors who attend the country wakes in England. Many of these people carry about with them large serpents of the hooded kind, on which they exercise their address, and apparently possess a power of rendering them torpid or animated at pleasure. In ad- dition to these, there are companies of tumblers and posture mas- ters, who, in displaying their feats of activity and address, are con- stantly attended by a low buffoon, the jack-pudding of the exhi- bition, whose oflice it is to keep the populace in a good humour during the continuance of the performances. Old Cairo, or Mesr-Attar, is situated to the south of Grand Cairo, from which it is distant about a mile and a half. At the time of our residence in the country the buildings were in a very ruinous state; but the wharf, or landing-place, presented a very busy scene, it being the port at which the corn ami other pro- duce from Upper Egypt, for the supply of the capital, is land- ed. From the convenience of its situation, at the side of the Nile, k is deservedly become one of the principal corn markets in the country. Boulac, situated on the eastern bank of the Nile, is distant from Grand Cairo, in a north-west direction, about- a mile and a half, or two miles, and is the principal port for vessels trading from Lower Egypt. Accordingly, a great abundance of corn is heaped on the ground for sale ; and in the magazines or warehouses a va- riety of articles of commerce are deposited. It was formerly a place of great extent, and very populous; but in consequence of the devastations committed by the Erench, the greater part of the buildings are reduced to a heap of ruins. Many of them appear to have been large, built of stone, and well constructed. The suburbs, or rather villages contiguous to the walls of Cairo, on the north side, are likewise in a very ruinous state; the build- ings having for the greater part been mutilated and destroyed by the Erench, to enable them to provide for the better defence of the town. To the south of Grand Cairo, and immediately adjacent to Old Cairo, the very entensivc aqueduct is situated which was for- 27O TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, merly employed to convey the waters of the Nile to the palace of the Pacha in the citadel. It has no less than three hundred arches; but is at present out of repair. The French converted it, however, to a very useful purpose, by filling up the interstices between the arches, and thus rendering it a wall of defence. To conclude with 3. brief notice of the natural productions of this part of Egypt. The horses, which are oir the true Arabian breed, are distinguished by the excellent qualities they possess, as well as by the fine symmetry of their proportions. It is on these horses that the Mamelukes and other bodies of cavalry are mount- ed. The camels and asses are employed as beasts of burden, there not being any carriages in the country, with the exception of the tartavans, or palanquins, used by the Turkish grandees and prin- cipal merchants. The latter of these animals, and the mules, are not neglected and despised, as is unfortunately the case in many other countries; but have a very careful attendance, and are occa- sionally close shsareJ. They are larger, better shaped, and much stronger,- as well as more fleet of foot, than the same animals in the northern parts of Europe. The Mamelukes and Turks being the only persons in Cairo who are permitted to ride on horseback, the other inhabitants are obliged to have recourse to the mules and asses. The women ride astride like the men, on a broad and elevated pad, covered with a Turkey or other carpet. Their dark and gloomy dress resembles that of a mask in a black domino. The flesh of the buffalo supplies the table with beef, which, at the tirne the pasturage springs up, after the retreat of the waters dis- tributed by the inundation, is fat and good. The small and deli- cate cows and oxen are on a variety of accounts too useful to be slaughtered for food : they labour constantly at the wheels by which the water is conveyed to the fields and gardens. The goats in Egypt are remarkably fine, the females giving twice in the course of the day more than a quart of milk, to pre- serve an ample supply of which large herds are entertained. Their ears are of an extraordinary length. The mutton which is procured at a particular season is good, and sold at a cheap rate, as are also the geese, fowls, pigeons, eggs, &c. which are in great abundance in every part of Egypt. The fruits which are attainable in the different seasons, however plentiful, are not generally remarkable for a richness of flavour; and this observation applies more particularly to the peaches and SYRIAj EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. I'll apricots. There is an abundant produce of lemons, limes, oranges, figs, bananas, dates, almonds, and pomegranates. Of these the le- mons and oranges are of a very superior quality, as are also the grapes and water melons, the refreshing property of which renders them highly estimable in so burning a climate. Among the vegetables may be comprehended onions, which are remarkably mild; cucumbers ; gourds; beets; baniers or okres; radishes ; coulcas, a species of yams, which, when boiled, bear some resemblance to the potato ; spinage ; artichokes ; and the bizlejan, a vegetable of a purple colour and globular shape, which appears to be a species of the egg plant. In all the cultivated parts of Egypt there are abundant crops of bearded wheat, barley, rice, dourra, or Indian corn, lupins, len- tils, beans, flax, indigo, and the carthamus plant. The corn is trampled out as in Syria, and is ground in hand-mills. The bread made from it is good and cheap. The ovens are heated with the stems of the Indian corn, the carthamus plant, and reeds. CHAPTER XVI. Arrest of the Mameluke Beys. Procession accompanying the saered carpet for covering the house of God at Mecca. Several Beys killed at Alexandria by the persons sent to arrest them. Anecdotes relative to the plague. Contest be- tween the Albanians and Mograbian Arabs. Experiment imth the freezing ■mixture. Subsiding of the Nile. Excursion to Heliopolis and the Lake or Pilgrims. Excursion to Upper Egypt ; to Hallouan. Present to the author of a mummy. Tounah. The castle. Rout at the imperial consul's. Pro- cession from Boulac. Caravan /u Mecca. Plague at Alexandria. Vizier prepares to quit Egypt. Mamelukes privately depart from Giza. Mission ordered to Alexandria, Audiefice of leave. Gold medals prefented to the officers. ON our return to Cairo, on the 21st of October, after our ex- cursion to Alexandria, we were not a little surprised to find that eleven of the Mameluke Beys had been arrested during our absence, and were in confinement at the palace of the Grand Vizier. This, we were told, had been done by order of the Sultan ; and it was added, that the other Bevs at Alexandria were to have been 2^2 TRAVELS IN,ASIATIC TURKEY, arrested at the same time by the Capitan Pacha. Seals were put on the effects of those residing at Cairo, and guards placed at their houses. Within the palace of the Vizier large bodies of Arnaut; were on duty; and guards patroled the streets in the different quar- ters of the town. This sudden and very important event was ef- fected without tumult in the capital of Egypt, of which country the Mamelukes had been in possesion nearly three hundred years, it having fallen under the domination of the Turks in the year fif- teen hundred. In consequence of these proceedings, as we presumed, Selint Bey, one of the Mameluke Beys, on the 24th, surrendered him- self for protection to Colonel Ramsay, commandant of Giza. The procession which accompanied the camel destined to carry the cloth, or carpet, with which the Caaha, or house of God, at Mecca, was to be covered, took place on the morning of the 29th, and afforded to the inhabitants of Cairo a very grand and solemn spectacle. It was preceded by the chiaous of the Vizier, who was immediately followed by the cadi, or judge, accompanied by great numbers of dervises, with their sacred banners. Next followed several of the Grand Vizier's principal officers, with bands of mu- sic, and colours flying. Taker Pacha, and a considerable number of armed men, attended the procession. Green cloths, elegantly embroidered in gold with Turkish characters, were carried on biers. The camel on whose back the sacred cloth was borne, had plumes of feathers on the head, and over the body an embroidered green cloth. In passing through the streets, the inhabitants dis- played a great eagerness to touch a portion of the cloth. Other camels, each of them covered with a plain green cloth, followed, with the boxes in which the treasure was to be contained. The priests, as they proceeded, chaunted hymns from the Koran; and the procession was closed by a body of armed men on horseback. Before the arrival of the French in Egypt, the sacred cloth, or carpet,' accompanied the caravan which set out annually for Mecca; but this arrangement, which was now renewed, had been disconti- nued during the last three years. On the first of November a despatch was received from Alexan- dria with the melancholy intelligence of the death of several of the Mameluke Beys and Cachefs, who were killed in a scufHe by a par- ty of the Capitan Pacha's troops, sent purposely to secure them. Several others were wounded in the contest. This disastrous cir- cumstance having been communicated to the British commander SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. T] J in chief, Lord Hutchinson, he instantly adopted the necessary mea- sures for the protection of the survivors^ manifesting at the same time, the indignance of his feelings at this gross and violent out- rage on humanity. In the mean time the bodies of the deceased were interred with military honours. Colonel Nottoway and Major Hope were on the above day in- vested with pel ices by his Highness the Vizier, and received the medals which the Sultan had transmitted in testimony of his appro- bation of their services. In paying a visit to an inhabitant of Cairo, I met with a Ger- man who had spent nine years in Egypt, and who gave me the fol . lowing remarkable anecdote relative to the plague of the preceding vear : — A vessel, consigned to the Imperial consul at Cairo, ar- rived at lioulac from Upper Egypt, laden with senna. The con- sul, having collected from the crew the information that two of the seamen had died on the passage after an illness of twenty-four hours, and having every reason to suppose, from the details into which they entered, that the disease could be no other than the plague, communicated the circumstance to a person high in autho- rity in the French army at Cairo, requesting that the vessel might be put under quarantine, since it would be imprudent to suffer her to depart without such a precaution. This wise admonition, from a man who had been many years an inhabitant of Egypt, and whose long experience and observation had enabled h;m to foresee the dreadful consequences that might result from a contrary proce- dure, was most unaccountably disregarded, and treated with con- tempt. The vessel sailed on her return to Upper Egypt, with- out any precautionary measure having been adopted ; and the whole of the crew, more than twenty in number, with the exception of one man, fell victims to the plague on the passage. The survivor, dreading the restraints which might be imposed on him, procured a dromedary, and fled to his own village', where a melancholy scene instantly ensued; himself, the whole of his family, and the greater part of the population of that and the surrounding villages were apparently swept off by the contagion he had thus the mis- fortune to introduce. The case of an old barber-surgeon at Cairo was also extremely singular. At the very advanced age of ninety-six years lie fell a victim to the plague of the above season. He had attained a high celebrity among the pestiferous patients, whom he had bled and attended from an early period of life. It was therefore extraordi- 274 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, nary that he should have received the infection for the first time at so advanced an age, when it was reasonable to apprehend that, from the torpor and inactivity which must have been generally in- duced in the temperament, he would have been least susceptible to disease. It was reported at Boulac, on the evening of the 5th, that a se- rious quarrel had taken place between the Albanians and janissa- ries. It proved, however, on enquiry, to have been a dispute be- tween the former and the Mograbian Arabs, by whom they were accused of having stolen several of their boys. The interference of the janissaries was necessary to quell the riot, the animosity of the parties having been such, that several on each side were killed, and others wounded in the contest. I rode on the 8 th to Bassatee, a village distant about five miles, in a southern direction, from Cairo. In the vicinity of this vil- lage the grounds were stiil moistened with the rains which had re- cently fallen, notwithstanding we had had at Cairo, which was within so short a distance, an almost constant drought. A party of sick, seventy in number, belonging to the Indian army, who had been left at Suez, arrived at Cairo about this time. They as- sured me that in the course of their march through the desert, .they had encountered several violent storms, accompanied by very heavy showers of rain, and that it was with great difficulty they could prevent their tents from being blown down. This appeared to me the more extraordinary, as the weather at Cairo, during the whole of the month of October, and even to the present date of Novem- ber, had been free from storms, and uncommonly mild and tem- perate, with a moderate refreshing breeze in the mornings and evenings. Colonel Lloyd., of the SGth regiment, arrived at Giza on the above day, with a detachment of three hundred men, from the en- campment before Bosetta. On the morning of the 12th, the thermometer being at 59, I took equal parts of powdered nitre and sal ammoniac, and threw them into a vessel containing water, into which I introduced a phial filled with that liquid, and, finally, the thermometer. In the course of a few minutes the mercury fell to 32, the freezing point, at which it remained, however, a few seconds only ; when it rose to 38, where it remained for some time. Fearing that I should not succeed in the production of ice, in the present experi- ment, I withdrew the phial which contained the water, with a SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANYj &C 275 view to ascertain the degree of cold it had received by a commu- nication with the freezing mixture. The result was a painful and smarting sensation of the fingers, when applied to the phial ; and this was of some continuance, with a very disagreeable sensation of cold. On the evening of the 13th, General Stewart arrived at Giza from Alexandria, with a view to the arrangement of the difficul- ties which had arisen between the Turks and Mamelukes. He had been sent on this service by Lord Cavan, the commander in chief ad interim, General Hutchinson having quitted Alexandria on ac- count of ill health. On the lfith the Mameluke Beys, attended by the greater part of their suites, quitted Cairo, and went over to Giza, with their baggage and equipages. About two in the morning; of the 20th there was a most tremen- dous storm of wind and rain at Cairo, accompanied bv heavy bursts of thunder, and very vivid lightning. I made an excursion, on the 22d, along the banks of the Nile, to the other side of the village of Attar Ennabi. The waters of the Nile had fallen rapidly, and in so considerable a degree, that the country was in a great measure open. This sudden change had sup- plied the inhabitants with ample employment; and they were accord*- ingly busied in sowing the lands, which had now received all the benefits of the inundation, with every description of corn. I rode on the 29th to Shubra and Damenhoor, near Beisous, where we had bden encamped previously to our arrival at Cairo. The present month of November having been cool and moist, with fogs, and heavy dews in the mornings, intermittents were become very prevalent among the British troops at Giza. On the 2d of December a courier arrived at Grand Cairo from Constantinople, which place he had left twenty-five days before. He was the bearer of the welcome tidings that the preliminaries of peace between Great Britain and France had been signed. The arrival of Lord Elgin in Egypt was daily to be expected, his Lord- ship having written by the courier to request of Colonel Hollo-way to meet him at Alexandria. On the 5 th Colonel Hollow ay and Major Hope embarked on board a p-erm at Cairo for Alexandria. In the months of November and December the southerly winds which usually prevail in Egypt, having passed over an extensive tract of country which the inundation has moistened, render the at- ■TjG TRAVELS TN ASIATIC TURKEY, mospherc cold and raw. During the summer months, on the other hand, and more especially in July and August, the winds from the south and south-east, in their passage through Egypt, are ac- companied by an intense and parching heat which is almost pro- ductive of suffocation. There have, indeed, been many instan- ces of animals having been suddenly destroyed by these ardent blasts of wind. A Tartar arrived at Grand Cairo on the 7th with despatches, the contents of which were kept secret. A party having been made on the 1 2th we rode to Matarce, He- liopolis, and the Lake of Pilgrims, called by the Arabs Birket- el-IIadgi. This lake is very extensive, having a circumference of several leagues, and is surrounded by large woods of date-trees. Beneath the shade of these.trees we halted, and partook of the re- freshments we had brought with us: the scene which surrounded us was infinitely agreeable and picturesque, the verdant banks of the lake being covered with numerous flocks of sheep, and herds of goats and buffaloes. We crossed the desert on our return, and pas- sed near several parties of wandering Arabs, whose habitations con- sisted of small black tents raised about four feet from the ground. On the plains of Hellai we saw the tents pitched for the caravan which was to proceed to Mecca. On the 16th I went by water to the vicinity of the village of Hallouan, situated in Upper Egypt, at the distance of about five leagues from Cairo. . To the north of Hallouan lies the village of Masser, near which the first barrier of Upper Egypt is placed. It consists of a stone wall, with several towers, which extend from the eastern bank of the Nile, to the mountains. I went on the following day to one of the baths at Cairo. 1 have already taken occasion to observe that they are far inferior, both in neatness and convenience, to those of Constantinople, notwith- standing they have been praised with so enthusiastic a warmth of description by M. Savary, who has, in many other parts of his work, given evident proofs of what can be effected by a writer pos- sessing a lively and fervid imagination. I noticed at this time that there were more deaths among the inhabitants of Cairo than had occurred during the preceding months. On the 24th a party was made to go by water to Hallouan. The wind being favourable, our boat stemmed the current, and we had a very agreeable sail to the village, which stands on the spot SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 277 where the Mekias was originally placed, before it was removed to the island of Roudah. In the vicinity of Ilallouan, which is as poor and wretched as the generality of the villages of Egypt, we could find nothing to attract our particular notice. The Reis Effendi was pleased about this time to make me a pre- sent of a mummy brought from the catacombs of Saccara ; the sub- ject appeared, on a nice inspection, to have been aged from sixteen to eighteen years. It was inclosed within a coffin very tolerably perfect, made of the wood of the Pharaoh fig or sycamore usually employed on those occasions. The lid of the coffin was ornament- ed with a variety of paintings of hieroglyphics, and other Egyp- tian devices. On the morning of the 26th I made an excursion to the village of Tourrah, distant from Cairo about eight miles, in the moun- tainous territory bordering on the desert. A part of the wall, which commences at the bank of the Nile, to form the barrier between Upper and Lower Egypt, passes near this village. I ascended the barren and rugged mountain on which the Mamelukes had erected a castle, and had from its summit a very fine and extensive view of the western side of the Nile, comprehending Cairo, and a consi- derable number of villages. The corn, newly sown, springing from the ground, diffused over its surface a pale green tint, which, combined with the darker foliage of the trees and shrubs, imparted a rich diversity to the scene. It was more lively and animated than any I had hitherto seen in Egypt. The castle, which had apparently been occupied by the French, had nothing left for its defence: even the roofs and floors of the different buildings contained within its enclosure had been taken away, to be converted into fire wood. I was inclined to ascribe this devastation, not to the French, but to the Turks, who are very expert at mutilating and destroying, for the sake of wood for combustion, whatever they can seize with impunity. This castle is about a mile distant from the Nile, and was well calculated, at the time of its erection, for the protection of the barrier, which has likewise two small works for its defence. On the side of the Nile, on which the village of Tourrah is si- tuated, the land is by ho means in so high a state of cultivation as on the western bank, of which we had so fine and distinct a view from the summit of the mountain. The land on the eastern bank consisting for the greater-part either of rocky eminences, or of de- sert wastes, the culture is chieflv confined to the p rounds border- 278 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, in"- the river, or to the more favoured spots selected for the site of the villages. It being the season of the Christmas holidays, I was present on the 27th at a rout given at Cairo by Madame Rosetti, wife to the Imperial Consul, at which nearly forty ladies of her acquaintance were assembled. They were all unveiled, and smoked with great composure from the long pipes which are in fashion in the country. Several of them had very pretty features, although the eyes were large and prominent. The eye -brows were blackened with the pig- ment which I have already noticed. Towards the close of the preceding month, and during the pre- sent month of December, we experienced in Egypt a temperature which bore some resemblance to winter. The fall of the leaf was, however, chiefly confined to the vines and mulberry-trees, the other trees, as well as the shrubs, preserving their foliage nearly through- out the vear. The mortality among the inhabitants of Cairo was very great, notwithstanding it did not appear that any cases of plague had occurred. The weather had been invariably foggy, with great and sudden changes of the winds. The sun, in the day time, darted forth its powerful rays ; while the evenings and nights were cold and moist. From such a temperature, and from such a state of the atmosphere, it was reasonable to expect that diseases would be generated; and accordingly dysenteric affections became very prevalent. At nine in the morning of the 3d of January 1802, in conse- quence of preparations for the departure of the caravan for Mecca, a procession from Boulac entered Cairo at the gate of Kassim Bey. It was led by two hundred infantry, Mograbians, preceded by their standards and bands of music, and followed by their Pacha, his suite, and led horses. Next followed a file of sixty camels ele- gantly equipped, with painted saddles covered by red housings handsomely embroidered with silver, beads, shells, &c. To the head of each of these animals bunches of coloured feathers were attached: several of them bore the standard of Mahomed ; and on others men were mounted to beat the kettle-drums as the procession ad- vanced. At the breasts of the camels were fastened large bells, which made a perpetual jingle as they moved along : the body and legs were spotted and stained with the henna. Three men, fan- tastically dressed, amused the spectators by their absurb tricks and extravagant gestures ; while a Santon, or Egyptian saint, prece- ded the camels on horseback, naked, and with a collar of beads SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 279 round his neck, to which several bells were also appended. As he rode he threw his body into a tremulous, convulsive motion. This party was accompanied by a man enclosed in a small box, resem- bling a part of the apparatus of our puppet-shows, covered with red cloth, feathers, and other fantastical ornaments. The procession was closed by a file of sixty camels, carrying the prepared skins which were to contain the water. On the back of one of these camels was placed a cluster of the lofty branches of orange, lemon, sycamore, and other frees. Frequent discharges of musketry were made, and every other demonstration of joy mani- fested by the inhabitants, as the procession moved through the streets of Cairo. The charge of the caravan had been given by the Vizier to one of his suite, Osman Bey, late master of the ceremonies. He now assumed the title of Emir Hadgi, or Prince of the Caravan; and held an appointment of considerable value and importance. On the pilgrimage to Mecca, which occupies a space of forty days, the property of all those who die falls to the inheritance of the Emir Hadgi. The Ramazan commenced on the 5 th at sun set, and was an- nounced at Cairo by repeated discharges of artillery, musketry, and pistols. On the morning of the 6th, a party having been made, we cros- sed the Nile, with our horses, to Giza, and rode to a village called Menawarr, at a small distance from Saccara. The country through „ which we passed had assumed a cheerful aspect from the corn which was every where springing from the earth. The Vizier having requested to see the officers of the mission during the continuance of the Ramazan, we paid him a visit on the evening of the 9th, and were entertained with coffee, sherbet, and other refreshments. The reception we received from his High- ness was highly civil and gracious. During the Ramazan, and the festival of the Bira?n, by which rt is followed, the streets of Cairo are illuminated in the evenings, but not with so grand an effect as at Constantinople. The mosques and minarets were, however, on this occasion, handsomely light- ed up with variegated lamps, displaying a variety of very plea- sing figures. Very distressing accounts from Alexandria were received at Cairo on the 17th, relative to the plague, which was said to rage with so much violence among the Sepovs, that they had been or- 2$0 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, dercd to Aboukir, to diminish the chance of the infection spread- ing among the other troops. Dr. White, at that time employed with the Indian army, who had maintained with great obstinacy an opinion that the plague is not infectious, had at length been fa- tall v convinced of the danger resulting from the erroneous doctrine he had supported. Having been attacked by very suspicious symptoms, he had written to General Baird to be relieved, expres- sing the strongest apprehensions of the perils which surrounded him. It will be seen in die historical account of plague, that this unfortunate man fell a victim to the absurd theory he had endea- voured to establish, and to the experiments he tried with a view to its support. On the morning of the 19th, Lord Cavan, accompanied by Mr. Stratton, secretary of legation, arrived at Giza. His Lordship was received by the British troops encamped there with a salute pf nineteen guns. The Pacha of Cairo, late Kia to the Capitan Pa- cha, arrived at the same time, and encamped with his troops near Boulac. On the 20th, in the afternoon, Colonel Hollo-xay, and Majors Hope and Cookson, of the royal artillery, arrived at Kassim Bey from Alexandria. In the evening Lord Cavan and Mr. Stratton had audiences of the Vizier. On the 20th the Pacha of Cairo made his public entry into that city. The Mamelukes removed their encampment on the 24th, to the south of Giza;, and on the following day the Vizier's tail was sent forward to be fixed to the north of Cairo, where his encampment was immediately to be formed, with a view to the arrangements which were to be made preparatorily to his Highness quitting Egypt, on his return to Constantinople, by the route of Syria. On the same day, the 25th, the Mamelukes, whose numbers were conjectured to amount to about three thousand, privately quitted Giza, and set out for Upper Egypt. It was greatly to be apprehended that a civil war would be the result of this defection, as the negotiations which had been commenced with a view to the reconciliation of the Turks and Mamelukes were thus thwarted in their intention. So sudden and extraordinary a movement, indeed, gave reason to conjecture that they had entirely failed. In the evening the Turks were busily engaged at Boulac in loading germs with guns, ammunition, and every description of stores, for the service of the detachments which were ordered to proceed instantly to Upper Egypt, in pursuit of the Mamelukes. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 28 1 On the 26th Colonel Holloway gave notice, that the mission should hold itself in readiness to embark for Alexandria on the shortest notice. It was reported, on the 28 th, that two men had died of the plague in the British encampment at Giza. Lord C'avan and suite, and Mr, Stratton, secretary of legation, were on the 29th invested with pelices by his Highness the Vizier, of whom they took leave. On the 30th General Stewart left Giza to proceed to Alexan- dria^ and thence to England. Lord Cavan and suite, with Ma- jor Cookson, quitted the above place on the morning of the 3 1st, under a salute from the garrison. Colonel Holloway, and the officers of the mission, having had, on the 3d of February, agreeably to appointment, an audience of his Highness the Vizier, to take leave, previously to their depar- ture from Egypt, gold medals were presented to such of the offi- cers as had not already received them, in testimony of the appro- bation of the Sultan for the services they had rendered. On this occasion coffee and other refreshments were served according to the oriental custom. The labours of the British military mission acting with the Turkish army, drew at length towards a conclusion, after a series of painful, harassing, and critical events, many of which cannot, from obvious motives, meet the public eye. The patience, for- bearance, and circumspection of the individuals engaged in this long and perilous service, were manifested on a variety of trying occasions, which required all the energy inherent in the British military character. I cannot, in justice and gratitude to his Highness, omit menti- oning, though it savours a little of egotism, that the Vizier, on this occasion, did me the honour to express his acknowledgments and thanks in a letter of recommendation which he sent me, to be de- livered to the English ambassador, Lord Elgin, at Constantinople, for the medical assistance which he, as well as many of his people, had received during our connection with his army, ( 36 ) 282 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, CHAPTER XVII. Plague breaks out in the buildings occupied by the British mission. Departure cf the janissaries. Departure of the Vizier. Excursion up the Nile. Site of the ancient city of Memphis. Remains of the Mekias. Departure from Cairo. Observations on the rise and fall of the Nile. THE Biram commenced on the 3d of February at sun-set, and was announced by a salute from the citadel, together with discharges of musketry in the different quarters of the town. On this day we had an unfortunate accident. The Choarbagi, an officer of janissaries, whose case I have described in the Medi- cal Journal, died of the plague within the buildings occupied by the British mission. The account of his death, and the circum- stances by which it was accompanied, were transmitted to the Bri- tish commander in chief, previously to the departure of the mission for Alexandria. On the morning of the 4th,- at sun-rise, the guns of the cita- del, and of the different forts in the vicinity of Cairo, were dis- charged, to celebrate the Biram, during the continuance of which, three discharges of artillery and musketry are made daily, in the morning, at noon, and at sun-set. In the course of the three davs which are thus dedicated to festivities of every description, as a relaxation from the severe penalties of the Ramazan, the Arabs and Turks engaged in servile capacities go from house to house to solicit backshish, or money, of their employers. Colonel Holloway and Major Hope left Cairo for Alexandria on the 6th. On account of the recent death of the officer of ja- nissaiies, who fell a victim to plague, the detachments were to re- main at Cairo until further orders. I learned with much satisfac- tion that the janissaries who were in the chamber of the deceased were all well. The janissary Aga, with the janissaries under his command, quitted Cairo at this time for Constantinople . The Vizier was to take the field on the 9th; and was to quit his encampment near Cairo in the space of fifteen or twenty days. The Turks Still continued to send supplies of troops, stores, and ammunition. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. £83 into Upper Egypt, to be enabled to counteract the designs of the Mamelukes. On the 9th I rode to the Vizier's encampment. A part only of the troops were on the ground. It was announced to be the inten- tion of his Highness to march in the course of three or four days with about five thousand of his troops, leaving the others, fifteen thousand in number, in Egypt, «under the charge of the Pacha of Cairo. On the 1 1 th a kampsin wind from the south-west threw up im- mense clouds of dust, which kept the atmosphere in a hazy state throughout the day, and produced an oppressive heat, with great irritation of the eyes. The Turkish troops were employed in form- ing a camp on Golden Island. Early in the morning of the 13th the Vizier marched from his encampment, situated without Cairo, near the villages of Izaoui and El-Mini, to Mattareah> where it was the intention of his Highness to halt for the remainder of the day; and to proceed af- terwards on his route to Constantinople, by Belbeis, El-Hanka^ Korin, Gaza, Hebron, Jerusalem, &c. penetrating through Sy- ria by Aleppo and Damascus. The sky was so much overclouded on the 14th, that the sun was completely obscured, a circumstance which is very unusual in Egypt, but from which this favourable consequence resulted, that the temperature of the air was cool, refreshing, and highly agreeable. A party having been made for the 1 5th, we set out early in the morning from fort Ibrahim, in a covered boat, and sailed up the Nile, with a fresh breeze from the north-east to Bcderasheen, a vil- lage distant from Cairo about fourteen miles, situated opposite to Hallouan. We landed, and walked to the village, and thence to Metterhenna, about two miles from the spot at which we landed. Metterhenna is a wretched village, which has nothing remarkable in itself, but which is well deserving of a visit on account of the tradition which fixes it on the site of the ancient city of Memphis, celebrated in history for the arts and sciences which flourished there with so much splendour, and for the wealth and munificence of its inhabitants. This renowned city was, it is said, founded by Uchoreus, who named it after his daughter. The latter was the wife of Nilus, from whom the Nile has taken its name, and to whom she bore a son called JEgyptus. From this offspring the countrv derived the name of Egypt. 284 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEV, Mettcrhenna stands nearly east of the viliage of Baccara, from which it is distant two or three miles, and from the pyramids six or seven. In its vicinity, and more particularly on the north and north-east sides, several fragments of granite, on which hierogly- phics were inscribed, were lying on the ground. These mutilated fragments appeared to be portions of columns of large dimensions, and of different kinds of architectural ornaments. On the eastern side of the village extensive and high mounds of rubbish ran paral- lel, north and south. It is deserving of remark that in every part of Egypt these considerable mounds of rubbish point out the site of an ancient town or city. On the outer side of those situated to the eastward of Metlerhenna we found the vestiges of a wall of great thickness, and evidently a work of high antiquity. It was constructed in such a way as to bear a strong resemblance to the de- cayed walls I had already seen at Constantinople, and in the vici- nity of Alexandria, the latter of which has been conjectured to have belonged to the building that contained the library of Ptole- my. The method which was employed by the ancients was to place parallel layers of bricks in the wall, which, in this instance, was built of a calcareous stone, not unlike in its appearance to the same kind of stone found on Mount Mokatam, whence it was pro- bably brought. The bricks were in so friable a state as to resemble masses of cinders. In short, from the different objects which we met with at Met- tcrhenna we were strongly inclined to give due credit to the vera- city of the historians who have fixed the site of Memphis on this spot. The fragment of the wall, the remote antiquity of which could not be questioned for a moment, bv any one who had visited other antique monuments of the same description, and the date of which has been well ascertained, was almost a decisive proof. To this I may add the portions of granite columns inscribed with hiero- glyphic characters, the immense mounds of rubbish thrown up in several directions, and, more especially, the relative sisuation of the spot with the pyramids of SaCcara. Being extremely desirous of ascertaining the site of this ancient city, I made at different times, by the means of my interpreter, the minutest enquiries among the Arabs of all the villages through which I passed; but could never collect the smallest information relative to the place which Monsieur Savary calls Men/, and which he, very fancifully, fixes on the site of Memphis, SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 285 The great numbers of lofty date-trees which surround Metier- henna, and which had been so planted as to form a variety of plea- sing groves, together with the fine plantations of corn, flax, and other produce, on which the industrious inhabitants had bestowed great and particular attention, were infinitely agreeable in their ef- fect to our party, who had been so long accustomed to a painful re- sidence at Grand Cairo, amidst the dust and scorching heats. I purchased for a few paras a morsel of an Egyptian idol ; and car- ried away with me a specimen of the calcareous stone employed in the construction of the wall, together with a small fragment of one of the granite columns. In returning to our boat at half past three in the afternoon, the Sheick of the village of Bederasheen invited us to take coffee and other refreshments. We did not reach Kassem Bey until nine in the evening, our return having been somewhat retarded by the wind, which blew from the north-east quarter, to- wards which we had to direct our course. On the bank at the mouth of the canal which leads from the Nile to Hallouan we observed a stony surface, the vestige of a building anciently erected on the spot. We conjectured that it might be the remains of the Mekias, which was originally placed at Hallouan, and afterwards rcmored to the island of Iloudah. On the morning of the 18th instructions were received from Colonel Holloway at Alexandria to quit Cairo, in consequence of which we were all occupied in preparing for our departure. In the course of the day our men were embarked on board of germs; and it was expected that we should be enabled to quit the capital of Egypt on the ensuing morning. 1 profited by the little leisure 'which was afforded me, and went to Giza to view the collections of antiquities brought from Upper Egypt by Mr. Hamilton and several other amateurs. I shall now give the result of my observations on the rise and fall of the Nile, from the time of my arrival at Cairo to the present date, with a hope that the interest they will excite will be equal to the pains I bestowed on them. On the 16th of July 1801, I first visited the Mekias or Nilome- ter, situated at the southern extremity of the island of Roudah near Old Cairo. The Arab who attended this place informed me that the Nile had begun to rise about the 28th or 29th of June; since which time it had risen two piques and a half. 7 he rapid manner in which the river rose induced him to believe that there would be an abun dant Nile this year. 2 86 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, I copied the following inscription placed over the door of the Mekias: L'an 9 de la Republique Francaise, et 1215 de l'Egire, 30 mois apres V /Egypte conquise par Bonaparte, Menou, general en chef, a repart; le Mekias. Le Nil repondoit, dans les basses eaux, a 3 coudees 10 doigts de la colonne le lOme. jour apres le solstice de l'an 8. II a commence a croxtre au Caire le 16me. jour apres le raeme solstice. 11 s'etoit eleve de 2 coudees 3 doigts au dessus eu fut de la colonne le 107me. jour apres ce solstice. II a commence a decroitre le 1 15me. jour apres ce solstice. Toutes les terres ont ete inondees. Cette criie extraordinaire de 14 coudees 17 doigts fait esperer une annee tres-abondante. Lefut de la colonne est de 16 coudees. La coudee est de 54 centimetres. Elle est divisee en vingt quatre doigts. TRANSLATION. In the ninth year of the French Republic, and of the Hegira 1215, at the expiration of thirty months after the conquest of Egypt by Bonaparte, the Mekias was repaired by Menou, com- mander in chief. When the waters were at the lowest, on the 10th day after the solstice of the year 8, (commencement of July 1800), the Nile stood on the column at the height of three cubits, ten digits. It began to rise at Cairo on the 16th day after the above solstice. On the 107th day after the solstice it had risen two cubits, three digits above the shaft of the column. On the 1 15th day after the solstice it began to decrease. All the lands were inundated. This extraordinary rise of four- teen cubits, seventeen digits, gives every reason to conjecture that the year will be very abundant. The shaft of the column is in height sixteen cubits. N. B. A French cubit (coudee) is nearly 22 inches and one-sixth of an inch English. A digit (doigt), the twenty-fourth part of a cubit, is about eleven-twelfths of an inch English, that is, 13 digits make about one foot English. It is said that the Delta in the space of 32S4 years has risen 14 cubits. Savary observes that the standard of abundance, in the rise of the Nile, is 18 cubits. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 287 July 23. Since the 16th instant, the Nile has risen 12 inches. August 3. For some days past the AY/ehas risen from 12 to 13 inches daily. August 5. The Nile water is become extremely thick, and has acquired an ochry colour. It is unfit for use until the earth is de- posited ; for which purpose the water is put into porous earthen jars, called by the Arabs birdack, made in Egypt. The constant evaporation through the sides of these vessels renders the water ex- tremely cool and pleasant. August 9. The canal called the Prince of the Faithful, which runs through Grand Cairo, was opened on this day with the usual ceremony. See the description of this ceremonv page 238. August 18. The Nile risen to the mark 16 cubits 10 digits, so as to cover half the capital of the column. September 1. The Nile risen to the mark 17 cubits, which co- vers nearly the whole of the capital. The Nile rose 9 feet during the month of August. September 18. Nile risen to the mark 17 cubits 13 digits. Nearly the whole of the island of Roudah is Nile risen to the mark 17 cubits 16 digits. 17 cubits IS digits. 17 cubits 21 digits. 17 cubits 23 digits. 1§ cubits 1 digit. 18 cubits 4 digits. Which was the utmost height of the Nile during the vear 1801. 'The Nile began to fall about the 8th or 9th of October at Cairo, but earlier at Rosctta. It is observed by the inhabitants, that if the wind continues north- erly at the time when the Nile is at the highest it is a very favour- able circumstance, as by this means the Nile is kept high for seve- ral days, sometimes for ten or fifteen, with but a small diminution of its waters, and the land receives all the benefit of the moisture. But on the contrary, should the wind be westerlv, and blow strong, it is extremely unfavourable; as, in this case, the Nile is seen to fall rapidly, and the land prevented from receiving the necessary moisture from the waters of the inundation. ^ An inhabitant of Cairo, long resident in Egypt, assured me, that the Nile of the preceding year was the highest known for thirty years past. However, this year, 1 SO I , it rose one digit higher. September 19. Nearl inundated. September 21. Nile 1 September 23. Ditto September 25. Ditto September 27. Ditto September 29. Ditto October 2. Ditto 2S8 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Dec. 1801. Oct. 24. iVW. 9. 13- 22. Vo. 8. 14. 22. 27. 1802. Jan. 5. IO. *7- 24. 3"« 7- 14. F*£. JV"i/ Mekias. J . . iSince theSth 0cm8oi, 17 16 16 '5 H 13 12 12 12 11 11 11 10 10 10 10 10 z 3 20 o 4 »3 9 22 10 2 22 6 4 21 H 8 4 o From the foregoing statement and table it will be perceived, that the Nile rose, during the year 1801, about twenty-seven feet one inch; and that it fell fifteen feet from the 8th October 1801, to the 14th February 1802, when I vas about to leave Cairo cm my way to Alexandria, and from thence to England. The mud de- posited by the Nile on the surface of the country during the inun- dation, is of a blackish, or deep lead colour ; but, when dry, be- comes of a lighter, or yellowish brown colour. It being composed of a large proportion of argillaceous earth, the surface of the coun- try forms itself into deep cracks, or fissures, as it dries; I collected some of this mud for the purpose of future examination, and shall, on its arrival, submit it to a careful analysis. A depth of from eight to ten inches of this mud, the effect of the last inundation, was seen in several level places ; but this earthy matter contracts so much in drying, that the depth of new surface, when perfectly lst, before break of day, our captain having discovered a light ahead, bore away from the land, to wait for the day-light, which would enable him to ascertain the course he was to steer. He was ignorant of our real situation, but sup- posed the land to be the island of Candid, whicli we had descried before the gale. At day-break we drew in towards the coast in the hope of finding a port ; and at length discovered, through a thick SYRIA, IGYPT, GERMANY, &C 301 haze, the bold and lofty mountains of Candia, covered with snow, together with a town and small fort. At sun set the wind shifted to the westward, and we bore away to the north-east. In the night it became contrary, accompanied by a rough sea. Finding it impossible, on the morning of the 1st of April, to clear the island, we tacked and stood the same course as on the preceding day, towards the western coast. At noon the wind ha- ving shifted to the westward, we bore up for the land. In the af- ternoon we had a heavy gale from the north-east, which carried us considerably to the westward. On the f2d, in the morning, we bore away with a north-west wind to the eastward, with a view to clear the eastern point of the island, abreast of which we found ourselves at one o'clock P. M. At this time the gale increased in violence, with heavy showers of rain. On the 3d we were driven to the eastward bv a strong gale from the north-west, the force of which was augmented to such a de- gree in the evening, that the waves beat over our vessel with an impetuous fury, threatening every moment to plunge us in the dreadful abvss, In this perilous situation, drifting under our bare poles, we continued until the following morning at day-break, when the storm abated gradually, and we once more made sail. We shortly after descried land to the eastward of us, and having steered in that direction, with a favourable breeze, came to anchor at two in the afternoon in the bay of the island of Castel Rosso, on the coast of Asia Minor, to our great satisfaction and content, after the repeated and violent gales we had had to encounter since our departure from yllcxandria, and the imminent peril to which we had been exposed by that of the preceding day. Almost immediately after our arrival, I landed at the town of Castel Rosso, the ancient Cistene, situated at the extremity of the bay, on a solid rock, and built in the form of a crescenr. The island consists entirely of rocks, from which the materials have been drawn for the construction of the houses. 7 he entrance into the bay is fine and romantic. In the centre and more elevated part of the town there is a castle, on which several guns are mounted. The island having formerly belonged to the Venetians, they had built this castle, and taken some pains to fortify the rock : the for- mer has, since that time, been rebuilt by the Turks. The inhabi- tants are for the greater part Greeks, with a few Turks. There are scarcely any productions on the island, on the rocky surface oi 302 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, •which a few goats and small cows browze, and pick up a scanty- subsistence. There is, however, an excellent harbour for ship- ping, with a good anchorage ground, and a constant supply of fresh water, collected from the rains in tanks, or reservoirs, placed at the foot or at the sides of the mountains. The island of Castel Rosso is distant from Rhodes about eighty miles, in an eastern di- rection. On the morning of the 5th the wind shifted to the eastward, and afforded us a favourable opportunity to proceed to Rhodes, our des- tined port ; but our sails had been so much split and damaged by the violence of the gales, that it required the whole of the day to re- pair them. I landed, and went into the town, the streets of which are the most extraordinary that can be imagined, consisting of nar- row passages cut out in the rock, which obliged us to ascend step by step from one stone to another, in examining the different parts of the town. The inhabitants had a healthy appearance, with very agreeable features. Several caicks, and a vessel from Smyrna, were at anchor in die bay. We got under way on the 6th, at eight in the morning, with a gentle breeze from the east, which died awav shortly after, and left us becalmed nearly for the whole of the day between the island and the land of Asia Minor. In the evening a westerly breeze prung up, and we bore away. On the following morning the wind blew from the north-east : we descried Rhodes soon after day-light, distant from thirty to forty miles. We had fine wea- ther during the day, but from the scantiness of the wind made a slow progress. On the Sth the wind had changed to the north, so as to oblige us to make frequent tacks. At half past one o'clock P. M. we an- chored in the harbour of Rhodes, and immediately went on shore to make our compliments to the governor. He paid us much at- tention, and procured us a house for our residence during our stay in the island. The habitation which he assigned to us was very pleasantly situated in the Greek town. We returned, however, on board in the evening, to land a part of our baggage. On the morning of the Dth I visited the different quarters of the town, which is of considerable extent. The houses are built of a white free-stone, procured in abundance on the island, and are very neat. The streets, which are kept in the nicest order, are very prettily paved with marble pebbles brought from the beach, and dis- posed with great taste. The inhabitants are a mixture of Turks K SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 303 Jews and Greeks, the latter of whom are the most numerous. A distinct quarter being assigned to each, it may be said that there are in Rhodes three towns, which are accordingly thus denominated after the different nations. The island of Rhodes is estimated to contain about fifteen thousand inhabitants, the Greeks being in every part more numerous than the Turks and Jews. One of the streets of the town of Rhodes, called La Rue dcs Chevaliers, contains the houses which were formerly inhabited by the knights, and which are still in a tolerable state of repair, not- withstanding several of them were erected at so early a date as to- wards the close of the thirteenth century. Much pains had been bestowed on the masonry and other external embellishments, among which I recognized, on the fronts of several of the houses, the arms with the crosses of Jerusalem and Rhodes, still in a very per- fect condition. The knights had erected a regular fortification, which, as well as the other works surrounding the town, is strong, extensive, and well built. With a little labour and expense, in- deed, these fortresses might be put in an excellent condition. I visited the bazars, which were well supplied whh various com- modities. The inhabitants in general have a healthy look, and very agreeable features. The Greek and Jewish women and children are pretty, but wear a very unbecoming dress, with a large bun- dle of handkerchiefs and wrappers on the head, which have a dis- agreeable effect. The town of Rhodes has two harbours ; one for large vessels, the other for small craft. The former is square, and tolerably ca- pacious, but open and exposed to the north-east and easterly winds. Tradition reports, that the celebrated colossus stood across the mouth of the great harbour, and that between the legs of this stu- pendous figure ships used to sail. The inhabitants still direct the attention of the traveller to the points on which its feet are said to have rested. The little harbour, situated on the north-west side of the other, and of the town, is more particularly calculated for caicks and other small craft, as the entrance to it is by a very narrow channel. The arsenal is situated at the upper end of this harbour. Several vessels came into the harbour on the 10th, supposed to be from Alexandria. The governor having supplied us with mules and muleteers, we rode to the north side of the island, and pro^ ceeded to the spot which was the site of ancient Rhodes, distanc from the modern town about four or five miles. It stood on a verv 304 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEV, lofty mountain, which we had some labour and difficulty to ascend, and which required more than half an hour's exertion, through winding paths which led over rocks and bushy thickets. The sides of the mountain are covered with lofty firs, oaks, and ash-trees, together with thick brush wood of myrtle and mastic trees. On the summit we found the ruins of walls, and of a fort, and other works, with the vestige of a building, which appeared to have been a monastery. In each of the angles of the domes, or vaulted roofs, of the apartments, the crosses of Jerusalem and Ii hades were still discernible. From the mountain we had a tine view of the surrounding coun- try, which is pleasingly diversified, consisting partly of high rocky grounds, the rugged surface of which contrasts with the beautiful and extensive vallies beneath. The elevated and rocky territory is in some parts covered by a soft calcarious stone, while in others it is of a sandy texture, with aggregations of round marble pebbles, similar to those found on the sea-shore. These pebbles are not on- ly employed for the pavement of the streets, but also of the court- yards and floors of the houses, where they are disposed with great taste, and have a very pleasing effect. The vallies are cultivated with great care, and yield abundant crops of wheat and barley, with a small proportion of oats. The vineyards are enclosed bv stone walls; and round these enclosures there are large plantations of fig and olive-trees. In the villages which are interspersed, the houses are built of white stone; they are small, but very neat. To render the scene still more pictures- que, large oaks, firs, and ash-trees, are planted on the sides of the mountains, and in the spots the least susceptible of cultivation. Every pari of the island is supplied wrh excellent water, collected from the springs which the rains have formed in their descent from the mountainous parts. The high lands are covered with a variety of fragrant herbs, which yield a delightful perfume; and contain enclosures for the culture of the different fruits, which, as well as the vegetables, are of kinds similar to those I have already noticed in speaking of Egypt and Syria. In passing through one of the Greek villages, we entered the church, which, among other very pretty decorations, contained several subjects and figures sculptured in wood with much neatness and ability. The island abounds with hares, woodcocks, partridges, snipes, and wild ducks. The breed of horses is small and insignificant, the SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 305 mules and asses being employed as beasrs of burden. The cows are small ; but the breeds of sheep, goats, and pigs, are the same as in Turkey. The bread is of an excellent quality ; and the wine, the produce of the vineyards, tolerably good, and very cheap. From the dried figs the inhabitants distil the spirit called rackay, with the addition of anise seeds, and the peels of lemons and oranges, to give it a rich flavour. Tin's liquor* with the aid of a sirup made simply from sugar, is denominated by the Italians rosolio. Rhodes may on the whole be considered as a very salubrious, fruitful, and agreeable island, the seasons being never in the ex- tremes, and the weather almost invariably moderate. We had been so long accustomed to the mud huts, and to the barren and sandy deserts of Egypt, where, with the exception of the charming plains of the Delta, there was so little to gratify the view, that our pre- sent residence appeared to us almost a paradise. It was now six years since the isiand had been visited by the plague, which, at that time, however, had made a dreadful havoc. The inhabitants are occasionally exposed, during the hotter months, to the attacks of intermittent fevers, which appear to me to have their source in the miasma thrown off by a small spot of marshy ground, and a piece of stagnant water, on the north side, and al- most contiguous to the town. The climate, however, is in ge- neral very healthv ; and there are among them many instances of longevity. In the arsenal of Rhodes vessels are constructed of fir, which is either the growth of the island, or brought from Caramania. Ha- ving had the assistance of several British and Swedish ship-builders of eminence, the workmen, who are exclusively Greeks, are be- come tolerably expert in their employment. The inhabitants of Rhodes pay but little attention to fishing; and the fish we procured there was but of an indifferent quality. Several caicks sailed out of the harbour of Rhodes on the 12th, supposed to be bound for Marmarice. The Turkish inhabitants were preparing to celebrate the Biram Courbaui, which was to commence on the following day. I mape an excursion to several of the villages adjacent to the town of Rhodes, one of which, inhabited by r Turks, called Ezgourah, is very delightfully situated in the midst of oak, ash, plane, and olive-trees, so thickly planted, that it appears to be in the centre of a wood. In its vicinity are two other villages, one of which, (39) J 06 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, named Coucekinch, is inhabited exclusively by Greeks ; and the other, Caudcley, by Jew& The former have a still more . consi- derable village, called Trcandah, situated nearer to the town, on the western shore. In the environs of these villages much corn is produced; and they are besides rendered very agreeable, as well by rhe vineyards which are interspersed, as by the fine orange groves belonging to many of the inhabitants of the town, who retire to the villages during the warmer months, and also at those times when the plague happens to be prevalent. The Jiiram Courbam, which commenced on the J. '5th, was an- nounced at Rhodes by discharges from the guns of the fort. Wc paid a visit to the governor, whose usage it is on this particular day to receive the compliments of all the inhabitants of a certain rank and description, who of course display all their finery, as is also the custom with the inferior classes during this festival. The inhabitants in general appear to live in great ease. The dress of the lower class of Greeks, as well in the town as in the villa- ges, consists of a cotton garment, which has a very neat appear- ance. This dress is not, however, to be seen in the villages unless on Sundays and on days of festivity ; on the working days a brown jacket is worn, with untanned boots. The Greek women of this class also wear a cotton dress; but those of the town distinguish themselves from the female villages by the addition of a red vest and petticoat. The head-dress, consisting of coloured handker- chiefs as before described, is extremely unbecoming. On the vest three large roses of plated metal are worn, placed one above the other. The Greeks of the superior classes, whether males or fe- males, are habited nearly in the same way as those in the Christian suburbs of the Turkish capital. I rode on the 14th to the village of Trcandah, and observed the inhabitants busied in preparing the land for the cotton, which is cultivated very successfully on the island. Among the vegetable productions I noticed beans of an excellent quality, together with artichokes, cabbages, and cauliflowers, all good in their kinds. In general the cultivated grounds are very rich. On the nth, we made an engagement with the Reis, or captain, of a caick, to convey us to Constantinople, which he would not consent to do for a less sum than eight hundred and fifty piastres (more than sixty pounds English). We bound him down, how- ever, to touch at the different islands of the Archipelago, which ttr were desirous to visit. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, and singular opinion on the brain. Hospital for lunatics. Anecdote relative to the etnperor Joieph II. Imperial palace at Schombrun. Menagerie. Observatory. Model of our Saviours se- pulchre. Arsenal. Collection of pictures. Departure from Vienna. EING provided with a firman, and several letters of recom- mendation, I embarked at Buyukdere on the evening of the 23d of May on board a boat, for the purpose of crossing the Black Sea. We quitted the harbour at midnight, and on the following morning at six o'clock passed the second castle on the European side of the Bosphorus. At the expiration of three hours we an- chored in a bay to the north of the third castle on the same side of the Bosphorus, where we remained until nine in the evening, when we sailed with the wind at north-east. On the morning of the 25th we appeared to have run about thirtv-six miles: but the wind failing, our people were obliged to have recourse to their oars. About ten o'clock A. M. the breeze freshened • and at four in the afternoon we passed Midge, with very pleasant and agreeable weather. On the 26th, at ten in the morning, we were abreast of Cape Baba, which, according to the computation of our crew, is dis- tant from Varna, in Bulgaria, about an hundred and twenty miles. At four in the afternoon we passed the gulf of Poros Le- man, and on the following morning, at one o'clock, anchored at the entrance of the gulf of Varna, the contrary wind opposing SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &€. 32? •ur further progress. We sailed at sun-rise, and about seven o'clock in the morning anchored near Varna, a town of Turkey in Europe, in the province of Bulgaria. I went on shore at that place, and waited on the governor, Os- man Aga, for whom I had brought letters, and to whom I pre- sented my firman, in order that he might issue the necessary com- mands to expedite me on my route to Rouzchook and Boucharest. I took up mv residence in the mean time at the house of the Greek bishop. In the evening I was informed that a party of Turks and Greeks were to set out on the following morning for the same des- tination ; and of this favourable opportunity I availed myself with- out hesitation. At seven in the morning of the 28th we left Varna, in a kind of covered waggons slightly constructed, called arabars, of which I was obliged to engage three, for myself, servant, and luggage. These vehicles are very small and narrow, somewhat resembling our ammunition waggons, and are drawn by one horse. They are so contrived as to enable the traveller to lay himself down at his full length; and the hire of one of these conveyances, from Varna to Rouzchook, or Rulzig, on the eastern bank of the Da- nube, a journey which occupies four or five days, is eighteen pias- tres. During the early part of the day our road led through a woody and hilly countrv, interspersed with a few wretched and solitary huts, the inmates of which were, however, hale and ro- bust. Towards the concluding part of the journey we passed through several fine, extensive, and well cultivated vallies, abound- ing in different kinds of corn, and more particularly in rye. The woods consist of dwarf oaks, hazels, black and white thorns, and a very considerable number of pear-trees ; but there are few trees of a growth calculated for timber. In proportion to the cultivated lands there are but few villages. On the sloping downs there are rich pasturages, in which we saw great numbers of oxen, cows, buffaloes, horses, sheep, and goats. The breeds of horses and oxen are small : The latter, and the buffaloes, are employed to draw the arabars of the peasants. The inhabitants of some of the villages pay a particular attention to grazing ; while in others they grow corn, and cultivate vineyards, There are no enclosures, ex- cept those for vineyards in the vicinity of the different villages. At half past five in the evening we crossed a river, and halted on the opposite bank for the night. On account of the numerous hordes of robbers which infested this countrv, we avoided as much as pos- 328 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, sible the approach to any village, the disposition of the inhabitants of which had not been well ascertained. We set out at four in the morning of the 29th, and passed through a very fine and rich country, abounding in pasture grounds, on which numerous flocks and herds were grazing. We saw an abundance of poultry, several waggons laden with which we met on the road. Our journey was infinitely agreeable over fertile and richly cultivated plains, resembling those of the most productive parts of England. At half past eight o'clock we halted for two hours. Wc fell in with several caravans, or large companies of travellers, on our route, this being, from motives of security, the custom of travelling in this country. The inhabitants, when abroad, are" constantly armed. The progress we made was at the rate of about three miles and a half in the hour ; and at half past one o'clock we arrived at Yenipazzar, inhabited principally by Turks, with an inconsiderable number of Greeks. The houses are con- structed of laths and plaster, with tiled roofs ; but the poorer class of inhabitants dwell in caves, over which a thatched roof is thrown. The town is surrounded bv a mud wall, and a dry ditch, with a gate at each extremity. We made a short stay there ; and having afterwards proceeded to the distance of six miles, passed through a village called Oukboudan, composed of wretched thatched huts. At six in the evening we halted at another poor viliage, called Tekerkcx, where we passed the night. On the 30th we set out at four in the morning, and at the end of two hours came to the village of SJiemlah, where we made a halt. At half past ten we reached another village, delightfully si- tuated at the side of a fine wood of oak-trees. The surrounding- scenery was beautiful and romantic. At half past six in the even- ing we reached the vicinity of Rasgat, a large town, which con- tains several mosques, and there reposed ourselves for the night. We set out at the accustomed early hour, on the 31st, and in a little time reached the above place, where we spent two hours in a han, or kann, destined, as I have already explained, for the accom- modation of travellers and their beasts, as well as for the reception of the merchandize they carry with them. The town of Rusgat has two gates, and is surrounded by palisadoes and inud walls. The inhabitants are a mixture of Greeks and Turks. Having proceed- ed on our route, we halted for two hours in the middle of the day, and at seven in the evening took up, as usual, our quarters for the i^ight in our arabars. As soon as we had halted, a part o( the ca- o, SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, C£C. 329 ravan was formed into a guard, to keep watch for the night; a necessary precaution to prevent an attack, to which the traveller is continually exposed. On the 1st of June we set out at four in the morning, and at six entered the town of Rouzchook, where 1 immediately took up my residence in one of the bans. 1 had there the good fortune to meet with a Greek merchant named Keriyahcoh Polizio, who paid me the most friendly attentions, and gave me the best counsel for the further prosecution of my journey. He had himself been obliged to fly from Bucharest, together with all the principal inhabitants, the consuls, and others, in consequence of the dreadful menaces of the banditti by whom the country was at that time desolated, and the approach of Paszcan Ogloii's troops. The Prince still re- mained there with a few of his followers ; but the consuls had deemed it more prudent to proceed to Cronstadt. I went with the above gentleman to pay a visit to the dragoman of the Prince of Bucharest, then at Rouzchook, but who was on the point of his departure for Constantinople, and who gave me a letter to the Ca- picahchiah at Georgivai, to aid me on my route to Bucharest. Gcorgival is situated on the western side of the Danube ; and it is there that travellers from Rouzchook stop to procure arabars, and whatever besides is necessary for their journey by Bucharest to Vienna. 1 was, however, thrown into a great dilemma in the evening by the news which arrived from, Bucharest, that the prince and his people had betaken themselves to flight on account of the approach and menaces of Paswan Oglou. This unlucky circumstance forced me to alter my plan, and to make new ar- rangements. Rouzchook is pleasingly situated on the eastern banks of the Danube, and is a place of considerable extent, inhabited by Turks and Greeks. Being the only town possessing an open and free trade in that quarter at the time of my arrival, all the merchan- dize had been brought thither, and the bazars well supplied with commodities of every description. In the course of the morning of the 2d a vessel arrived with merchandize and several passengers, Germans, from Jienna, bound to Galatz in Moldavia. It was expected that she would prosecute her voyage on the following day ; and as the distressing advices from Bucharest were confirm- ed, it was recommended to me to take a passage in this vessel to Galatz, the Greek merchant engaging to supply mc with letters ( 42 ) 3JO TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, of recommendation, 5cc. to the Russian and Imperial consuls at Yassi. I embarked on board the above vessel on the 4th at five in the morning. The captain spoke a little Italian, though he was by birth a Greek, Mv fellow travellers consisted of an Italian, bro- ther to the Imperial consul at Galatz, who spoke the German language with much fluency, two Germans, and a Greek. Soon after we embarked the sky became overcharged with heavy clouds, which indicated the approach of a storm, and induced our captain to wait for more settled and favourable weather. It cleared up at three in the afternoon, when the anchor was weighed, and we got under way with a smart breeze from the north, our crew tiring a salute of musketry, between each discharge of which the Italian sounded his trumpet. The wind freshened soon after tu such a degree, that we were obliged to anchor a little below ihe town. We were detained on the 5th by the stormy weather until two in the afternoon, when we took our departure, and in less than half an hour passed the town of Georgival. The current setting in our favour, we made a pretty rapid progress by the aid of our twelve oars, and at half past seven in the evening came to anchor for the night. On the following morning we set out before break of day ; and at three in the afternoon passed Torkotai, a small town very romantically situated on the banks of the Danube. The hills adjacent to this town are laid out in fine vineyards, intersper- sed with bushy trees : on the north-east side there are hanging woods which are continued for several miles, and have a very plea- sing and picturesque effect. Opposite to the town there are seven water mills, each of them dependant on two boats moored across the river, in one of which the mill is placed, while the other sup- ports the wheel stationed in the centre, between the two. On the present occasion I had seen mills of this kind for the first time ; but I was told that they are employed on every part of the Da- nube. When we had proceeded three or four miles from the town, our vessel ran aground on one of the small islands which are scat- tered in great numbers on the sides of the river; and by this acci- dent we were detained for upwards of an hour. Immediately op- posite to our position, on the eastern side of the river, we per- ceived a neighbouring village in ilames, and concluded it to have been set on fire bv one of the bands of robbers by whom the coun- try was infested. At half past seven in the evening we anchored SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 33 1 on the western bank of the Danube, and nearly opposite to Si- listria. The weather was at this time stormy and unpleasant. One of the officers of our vessel immediately went on shore with the papers and passport furnished to him by Pdswan Oglou at Belgrade ; but was desired to return again on the following morn- ,n g- We weighed anchor on the 7th a little before noon, on the above officer coming on board with the necessary permission, and were not long in passing the town and castle. The latter, and the de- fensive works which have been thrown up, are of little importance. The town, built on the eastern bank of the Danube, is of inconsi- derable extent, and is situated in the midst of a fine and fertile, but hilly country. The mills employed by the inhabitants are of the same contrivance as at Torkotai. There are no less than fourteen mosques in Silistria; but the houses are as wretched as those of the greater part of the towns in Turkey. The adjacent hills are co- vered with fine vineyards, and with an abundance of lofty trees, to decorate the scenery. The day proved very sultry, with little or no wind; but a storm, accompanied by thunder and lightning, coming on towards the evening, we anchored at sun-set on the western side of the river. We had noticed at three o'clock in the afternoon another village on fire • and as soon as we came to anchor, a distressing scene pre- sented itself to our view. A considerable number of m.en, women, and children, the wretched victims of the conflagration we had witnessed, were assembled at the water-side, and had conveyed thither the little property they could collect together, consisting principally of arabars, oxen, and sheep. After having passed a very stormy night, we weighed anchor on the 8th before day-light ; but the force of the wind augmented so considerably, that we were soon after obliged to anchor on the east side of the Danube. At SiHstrYa we had received on board three Turks, as guards ; our number, therefore, was now augmented to twenty-five individuals, consisting of Greeks, Germans, Itali- ans, English, Turks, and JVallachiam. The latter, twelve in number, composed the crew ; and, as the vessel was unprovided with sails, had a very laborious employment in rowing and steer- ing her when under way. The construction of these vessels, which navigate the Danube with passengers and merchandize, is somewhat singular. They are in length about an hundred and twenty feet, and in breadth eighteen, with a roof of planks, abottf 332 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, fifty feet in length, in the centre, which resembles the ridge of a house, and beneath which the most valuable merchandize and the passengers are placed. Under this roof the traveller fancies him- self rather in a house, or booth, than in a vessel : over it there is a kind of terrace, about seven feet square, which may be consider- ed as a species of kiosque, and which, as it commands a fine view of the scenery on each side of the river, affords a pleasing retire- ment: in the evening. These vessels, which are so deeply laden that they sink as low in the water as our heavy barges, come from Vienna with goods of every description for Galatz and lassi in Moldavia. They are provided, in the fore part, with twelve oars of a moderate size; two very large ones, which appeared to me to be from forty to fifty feet in length, at the bows ; and two others of the same description at the stern, to answer the pur- pose of a helm, in regulating the direction of the vessel. Being destitute of masts and rigging to steady them, they are constantly anchored near the shore when it blows fresh, as well as in the night time. On the west side of the Danube the country consists of fine le- vels; while, on the eastern side, its banks are skirted by a chain of fertile hills, covered with fine woodland scenery. This river has, towards its banks, a very considerable number of small islands, on which trees have been planted with a very agreeable effect. Its greatest breadth does not exceed a mile and a half. The weather was so stormy on the 8th that we were detained until half past seven in the evening, when the anchor was weigh- ed. We shortly after saw a party of fugitives whom the banditti had attacked, assembled on the eastern bank of the river; and at half past eight o'clock were abreast of Rossovat, a small town si- tuated on the same bank. We anchored at midnight, and reposed ourselves until three in the morning, when we again prosecuted our passage down the Danube, with the most agreeable weather imaginable, but with melancholy reflections resulting from the wretched condition of the inhabitants, whom we saw dispersed on each side on its banks. At half past seven o'clock in the morning we passed Sooda, a small village situated on a hill, on the eastern side of the river; and at half past eight were abreast of another village on the same bank, called Chekerge. At ten o'clock we were off Kersewai, or Girso~c, a small town on the same side of the river, to which we sent on shore for a supply of provisions and v/ines. Near this place, on a rocky hill, there is a small and in- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 233 significant castle situated at the river side, which had been attack- ed about eleven years before by the /iussians, the remains of whose Works, by which the fortress was completely commanded, we saw, as they had been thrown up on the adjacent hills. It is said that in the attack made by the Russians at Girsow, the JlurJcs lost eighty thousand men. At seven in the evening we passed a village, on the western bank, called by the Turks Ihurockfen, and came to anchor an hour after. In our passage of this day we found the river had several abrupt and sudden turnings, and was in some pla • ces very narrow. On the 9th, at four in the morning, we weighed anchor, and soon after ran aground. The navigation of the river in this pare is indeed rendered extremely intricate and difficult, by the small islands thrown up, the passage between which draw the current ; insomuch that the conducting of our vessel, so peculiarly con- structed, required mnch cantioii and circumspection, to shun the points of land at the different turnings. At half past five o'clock in the morning we passed a small village on the western bank, and at seven were abreast of Ibrael, a town pleasantly situated on the same side of the river, opposite to which lay several vessels from the Black Sea. We were delayed two hours by the person who was sent to the above place with the pass, which prevented us from reaching Galatz befoce twelve o'clock. Notwithstanding I was at so great a distance from my native home, the reflection that I was now in a land inhabited by Christians, inspired me with a tranquillity to which I had been long a stranger. As soon as we had anchored I landed with my baggage, and called on the Imperial consul, Signor Mangoli, with whom I dined, and was not a little surprised in the afternoon at the appearance of an Eng- lish courier, Mr. Duff, who was on his route from Constantino- pie to Vienna. It gave me great satisfaction to be enabled to ac- company him on the following morning. Galatz is situated in the territory of Moldavia, and is principally inhabited bv the natives of the country. The land adjacent to it is level, as it also is on the opposite bank. Indeed, during the last two days of our navi- gation, the country on each siJe of the river presented but few un- even surfaces. Having procured three arabars and twelve horses for oui journey, We left Galatz at five in the morning of the J Oth ; and at half past seven arrived at the village of Peke, the first stage, having perform- 334 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, ed a distance of nearly twenty miles; The horses of the country are small, but fleet, and on these journeys are kept constantly on the gallop. We left the above village, the cottages of which are very neat, at eight o'clock, and a little after ten- reached Ko me, the second stage. The country through which we passed abounds in fine sloping hills, having a rich soil, though but little attended to with respect to cultivation. Where due pains are bestowed on them, however, they yield an ample produce of different kinds of grain. W r e left this village at half past ten, and passed tnrough a fine country, abounding in dwarf oaks, which brought us to Rege, where we arrived ac half past twelve. We reached the next stage, Borlat, a very respectable town, at three o'clock, and proceeded thence to Cohneh, where we arrived at six in the evening, and took refreshments at the post-house. W T e next proceeded to W-aslow, which we reached at nine o'clock ; and, finally arrived at Ounche- stey at midnight, glad to repose ourselves after so long and fatigu- ing a journey. On the 11th, at four in the morning, we left Ounchesfcy, and arrived at Sccnty an hour after. We were detained there for some time, in consequence of one of the horses having strayed from the post-house; and this prevented us from reaching Yassi, the capital of Moldavia, a province of Turkey in Europe, until between eight and nine o'clock. We alighted at the house of the Imperial con- sul with whom we dined. On approaching the above place the country is beautifully romantic. We left Yassi at three in the afternoon, and at half past four ar- rived at LargaJi, where having made a short stay, we again set out, and arrived at Chepot at seven in the evening. The road leading from Yassi to this place is very agreeable, over fine hills, which have not, however, the advantage of being well cultivated, the in- habitants appearing to attend to little more than their own imme- diate supplies. The country is open, and entirely divested of trees and shrubs. Our next stage led us, by.an excellent road, to Streist, where we arrived at nine at night; and proceeded thence to Borda- sheen, which we reached at midnight, and reposed ourselves for a few hours. On the morning of the 12th, at four o'clock, we set out for Dorhowe, a stage which occupied us more than two hours, the road having been rendered very heavy by the rains which had fal- len on the preceding day. In several of the towns and villages of Moldavia the inhabitants consist principally of Jws x who are very SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 23S numerous in every part of the country. The Jewish females wear a peculiar head-dress, with a large pearl ornament hanging at the side of each cheek. From Dorhozvewe proceeded, after a short stay, to Herts ; and thence to the station, near Chernuwick, where the director of the counter march resides. It is there that the quaran- tine is performed, and. the passports and baggage inspected, previ- ously to the entry of travellers into Germany. On our reach- ing CkernonHck at one in the afternoon, we waited on the gover- nor, who was absent for the moment, and having proceeded to our inn, purchased a calash, a well known travelling carriage. Cher- nowich is a little town of West Gallicia, a part of the territory of Poland^ pleasantly situated at the side of the river Prut. The in- habitants are principally Germans, with a few Poles. We quitted this place at eight in the evening, as soon as our baggage had been fixed in the carriage ; and at midnight arrived ztSnatten, where we allowed ourselves but a short repose. On the 13th, at the early hour of one in the morning, we quit- ted the above place, and at half past four arrived at Veno Gratz, or Guasditch, a pleasing and well-built town, situated in the midst of a fertile country. In performing this stage we had an excellent road. Our next stages, each of which occupied from two hours to two hours and a half, were to Kotsmier, Siowmax, Stcmitzslaf, and Alich, at the latter of which places we arrived at six in the evening, without having met with any remarkable occurrence on our -route. The country through which we passed had an appearance of great fertility, and abounded in beautiful woodlands. At Alich we saw the ruins of a castle, situated on an eminence, which had anciently belonged to the kings of Poland. At seven in the even- ing we quitted that place for Bars fern, whence we proceeded to Knenitch, where we arrived at midnight. We reached Strelitz at a very early hour on the morning of the 1 1th, having made no other stop on the road than that which the necessity of changing horses required, and arrived at Bobberdah at five o'clock, after a harassing journey over a rough and unpleasant road. Our subsequent stages were Davetoff, Limberg, Bartadoff, and Crutuk, at the latter of which places we dined. The latter part of the road, in performing the above stages, is highly agreea- ble, being raised, and kept in excellent repair. For the distance of several miles it runs in a direct line, with beautiful trees planted on each side. This part of Poland is Hat, but very fertile, and contains many tine and extensive woods of beeches and oaks. At 3^6 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, half past five in the afternoon we arrived at Wishuey, whence we proceeded to Moschisca, Letching, Pcrrigal, and Radimno, the latter of which places we did not reach until one in the morning of the 1 5 th. We proceeded thence to Yarislow, Prizwork, Lanzwork, JRcs- houf, Seneshou, and Denbitzer, at which latter place we dined at two in the afternoon. Our route led us afterwards to Pilsnoh, and thence to Tarncw, a pleasant little town, containing several hand- some edifices, and situated in a fine rural country. In this part the road still runs in a direct line, and is kept in excellent order. The other stages of this day's journey were Okeriitz and Presco, which latter stage was not conolnded until one in the morning of the 16th. The stages we had to run on that morning were Posnia, Gidow, and IViliska, the latter situated in the vicinity of Cracow, or Cra-* covin. We stopped at this place, and went to one of the directors of the salt works established there. Permission having been ob- tained from Baron Verney, the governor of the establishment, we descended the salt pits, in which we spent three hours. During this interval we visited a considerable part of the works, which are, how- ever, carried beneath the ground to so considerable an extent, that the pits are in depth a hundred and twenty-three fathoms ; and the descent into the different passages and subterraneous apartments ef- fected by the means of ropes attached to wheels worked by horses. These works find employment for nearly seven hundred people, who are constantly engaged in digging and blowing up the rocks of fine salt. In addition to a governor and lieutenant-governor, there are four directors, and an engineer, for their superintendence. They are the property of the Emperor of Germany . On the tops and at the sides of the passages very beautiful crystallizations of salt are formed, by the dripping of the water through the salt rock. I brought away several specimens of these crystallizations; and was present at the removal of one of the columns of salt, which are af- terwards cut into lengths, and into a figure resembling an egg, for sale. To be brief; the salt works of Wiliska, m Poland, which run beneath nearly half the town, may certainly be deemed the finest in Europe ; and the salt extracted from them is of the purest quality. After having dined with Mr. Wolf, the director, we took coffee with Baron Verney, the governor, and left IViliska at five in the afternoon for Cracow, the capital of Poland, where we ar- rived an hour after. Cracow is a large town, walled in and fortifi- SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 237 ed with a river, Weissel or JVeisser, running near to its gates. It is well known that the kings of Poland were usually crowned here. Our next stages were to Moselainii, Istebnick, and JVa- dohmch ; and our arrival at the latter place brought us to mid- night. On the morning of the 17th, at half past three o'clock, we ar- rived at Candy, a town situated partly in Poland, and partly in Si- lesia. We proceeded from thence to Pelitz, and were now on the frontiers of Austria. , It is a handsome town, containing several good buildings, and rs situated on a hill in a very agreeable coun- try. Having quitted this place, we proceeded to Sliottau, which has a few decent houses, resembling, however, all those to be met with in this part of Germany, that is, white- washed and low built. Instead of tiles, they are covered by squares of wood, which in a little time acquire a dark colour, and give the roofs the appear- ance of being slated. In their shape these houses resemble some- what those of China. It being the feast of Pentecost, or Whit- suntide, the inhabitants were, on our arrival, busied in preparing for the procession which was to take place ; and the various uten- sils employed at the mass, together with the decorations of the chapels, were fixed on the walls in the form of altars, surmounted by branches t of the cypress and other trees. The inhabitants of Silesia are a distinct people, having a language peculiar to them- selves. The country has a cheerful aspect, but is not so fertile as Poland. The women wear red or black stockings, which, being plaited, make their legs appear uncommonly large. In front of a short petticoat, which does not reach below the knees, they wear a short blue apron ; and on the head a piece of white cotton, or linen, bound round as a handkerchief. About nine in the morning we quitted Shot tan, and proceeded to Tishen, where we saw, on our arrival, the procession of the host, attended by an immense concourse of people, in their best attire. The military were drawn out to fire a salute, and the streets strewed with grass for the pas- sage of the host, which was carried by the principal magistrates. At two in the afternoon we arrived at Freduk, which is, as well as the preceding place, an agreeable little town, containing several good buildings. This part of the country is highly agreeable \ and the positions of several of the towns and villages are rendered char- mingly picturesque by fine and extensive woods and plantations of pines, firs, and other trees. We were detained at Freduk until half past four o'clock by an accident which befel one of the wheels (43 ) 338 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, of our carriage. Having replaced this wheel by a more solid one, we proceeded to Neislischene, a large and well built town, pro- vided with a fortress, which we reached at seven in the evening. In the centre of this town, as well as of several others through which we passed, there is a large square, surrounded by commodi- ous and well-built houses, beneath which are piazzas, with shops lor the sale of different merchandizes. Under the piazzas the inhabitants have a sheltered promenade in wet weather. We quitted the above place, and reached Weiskcrk a little before mid- night. At two in the morning of the 13th we passed through a re- spectable town called Lytnictz, and between the hours of three and four reached our first stage, Bosaugess, having passed over a very hilly and heavy road, in the midst of a violent storm, accom- panied by thunder and lightning. From this place we proceeded to Oitmitz, a large, well built, and fortified town, which has, how- ever, but an inconsiderable trade. Our subsequent stages, on this day's journey, were Prosnitz, Wischau, Posorzitz, Brinn, a large and populous fortified town, provided with a citadel, and contain- ing several handsome buildings; Clay, Maariheify Nivolscopurg? and Porsdorf. We were now approaching Vienna, having six stages only to perform. On the 19th we passed successively through Wilfersdorf, Girnesdorf, Wulnersdorf, Crizersdorf, and Tarmersdorf, ma- king at each of these places the necessary halt to change horses, and at eleven in the morning were safely arrived in the capital of the Imperial dominions. Having procured a lackey to accompany me, and point out what was most deserving of notice at Vienna, I paid a visit to Mr. Stew- iti't, secretary of legation, and left a letter of recommendation from Mr. Stratton to the British minister, Mr. Paget. I dined with several English gentlemen, at the Augarten, the saloon of which is very handsome, and the gardens prettily laid out and embellish- ed. We went afterwards to the prater, or promenade, without the town, where a great number of people of all ranks and clas- ses were assembled. We spent the evening at the Imperial theatre. Doctor Carro, a physician of celebrity at Vienna* to whom I had an introduction, was at this time engaged in the practice of the vaccine inoculation, and informed me, on my paying him a morn- ing's visit, on the 21st, that he had had five hundred cases, all of SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 'j ~>, which had been attended with the most complete success. In the afternoon I visited tne cathedral church of St. Stephen, a very neat and compact building. A party was made in the evening for ths Widden theatre, situated without the town, where the French opera of Alccste was well performed. The price of admission to this theatre, which is a very handsome edifice, is one florin only, a much more reasonable rate of entrance than at our theatres. On the 22d I went to the church of St. Michael, and thence to the imperial library, a verv fine building, containing a commodious suite of apartments, supplied, it is said, with upwards of two hun- dred thousand volumes, comprehending the most rare books m every language. Adjacent to the great hall there is a reading-room, which is opened daily at certain hours to the public: an individual can have the use of any book within this room. I proceeded thence to the menage, where everv one is at liberty to enter and ride at certain hours. In the evening I visited the imperial theatre, or, as it is styled, Theatre de la Cour, where an Italian opera was per- formed, and followed by a ballet. Like ail the German theatres, this edifice has a very gloomy appearance, on account of the want of lights withinside. Colonel Ilollczcai/ and Major Hope, having arrived at Vienna in the course of the preceding night, I dined in their company on the 23d with Mr. Paget, the British minister, at Dibling, a small village near Vienna, very pleasingly situated at the side of the Dd- nube. The party was entirely English. In the evening we went to the theatre to see an Italian opera. On the 24th I visited the library and beautiful and choice cabi- net of medals. I was shewn several very ancient manuscripts, and rolls of papyrus. Among the books of antique date were an edi- tion of the Psalms in Gothic characters, printed at Menlz in 14 37, and Plinifs Natural History, printed at Venice on vellum in 1468. I accompanied Dr. Carro in the afternoon to the general hospital, a very extensive building, kept in the best order. In the evening I went to the Widden theatre to see the performance of Richard Ceeur dc Lion. On the morning of the 25th I visited the cabinet of natural his- tory, which contains a very fine and extensive collection of mine- ralogy. Dr. Gall, a physician at Vienna, in a party this day, at which I was present, gave a singular opinion on the brain and its functions, in which he broached a new but dangerous doctrine. In expatiating on the functions of this organ, he argued the possibility 340 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, of discovering the various inclinations and capacities by the struc- ture of the skull, and by its elevations and depressions. In doing this, he dwelt on the important truths and conclusions which would result from the establishment of such a doctrine, to the manifest advantage of medicine, morals, education, legislation, &c. toge- ther with the promotion of a more perfect knowledge of mankind in general. In laying down the principles which he was desirous to apply to future observations, he advanced, first, that capacities and inclinations are innate in man and brutes: secondly, that these capacities and inclinations are seated in the brain: and lastly, that both the capacities and inclinations being essentially different from and independent of each othrer, they must consequently originate in different parts of the brain, between which there is a like inde- pendence. On the 26th I visited the hospital of the insane, called la Toi^r des Four, at Rossau. In this lofty and capacious building between two and three hundred persons of both sexes are confined, in apart- ments kept in the nicest order. An anecdote is recorded of the Emperor Joseph the second, that having caused an apartment to be fitted up for himself at the top of this tower, or building, to enjoy the advantage of a fine and extensive prospect, one of the inmates attacked him in a sarcastic epigram, inscribed on the wall. It is well known that this Emperor indulged in many extraordinary fancies and wild speculations; and accordingly the attack was couched in the following words, in the form of an epitaph : — " Uicjacet Jo- " sephus Secundus, hie primus, ubiaue secundus. ,y On the 2Tth I visited the imperial palace at Scombrun, a very superb building, standing in a delightful situation, and embellished by beautiful walks, gardens, fountains, statues, grottoes, and plea- sure-grounds, all open to the public. I was conducted to the me- nagerie, and thence to the observatory, which affords a fine and extensive view of Vienna and its environs. On my way to Scom- brun \ entered a church at the village of Herrals, where I was shewn the model of the sepulchre of our Saviour at Jerusalem, with other curiosities of a similar kind. Having seen the original sepulchre, it was not difficult for me to ascertain that the model was destitute of all resemblance. Having dined at Schombrun, I made an excursion to Dornbach, a very agreeable and rural seat, which had been the residence of the late Field-marshal Lacy . It was open to the public, as is indeed SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. J4I the case with all the Imperial buildings. This indulgence renders an abode at Vienna very agreeable. On the 28th I visited the arsenal, in the armoury of which the small arms, in very considerable numbers, are prettily and fanci- fully arranged. I went afterwards to view the very extensive col- lection of fane pictures, upwards of thirteen hundred, many of them the productions of the most celebrated masters, at Belvidcre; but was prevented, by want of time, from inspecting them with a due attemion. Having made an arrangement with Colonel Hol- loway and Major Hope to quit Vienna on the following morning, I took up my residence at their inn, to be prepared for an early de- parture. The short stay which I made at Vienna prevents me from at- tempting a more circumstantial account of this citv and the envi- rons, which are well worthy the norice of travellers. The inhabi- tants are extremely hospitable j and the necessary articles of life are at moderate prices. CHAPTER XXII. Journey through Germany. Lintz. Glandular swellings. Dress of the ive- men in Bavari3. Houfes. Rr.tisbon, Franconia. Drey of the female pea- sants. Wurtzbnrg. The palace. Citadel and bridge. Esselbach. Es- chaffenberg. Dettingen. Hanau. Frankfort. Koenigstein. Seltzer Water. Limbouig. Dowz. Dusseldorf. Seat of the prince Palatine. Dress of the peasants. Duysbourg. Wesel. Arnheim. Roads in Hol- land. Face of the country and cultivation. Utrecht. Rotterdam. Hel- voetsluys. Arrival in England. ON the 29th of June we quitted Vienna at half past five in the morning, and at eight o'clock arrived at Burkersdqf, whence, without loss of time, we proceeded to the second stage, Sichart- skirchen, which we reached at half past ten o'clock. Our route was over a very delightful country, abounding in woods, sloping hills, and well cultivated vallies planted with corn. Our next sta- ges conducted us to Pcrachling, St. Pollen, and Molk, at the lat- ter of which places there is a fine benedictine convent, most opu- lently endowed. We arrived there about six in the evening, and 342 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY^ halted for the night. During this day's journey we made a pro- gress of about fifty-six miles. We left Molk at five in the morning of the 30tb, and at half past seven arrived at Kemmeback, by good roads, which led over a very fine and fertile country. We proceeded thence, by direct stages, to Amstatten, Stringbcrg, Ens, and finally to Lintz, a smali, but handsome and well-built town, which we reached at six in the evening, and halted for the night. I noticed that in this part of the country glandular tumours in the throat were very common among the women. On the 1st of July we performed four stages, in the course of which nothing particular occurred. We quitted Lintz in the morning, at the usual early hour, and having successively stopped at the posts of Efferding, Beyerbach, and Sigarding, arrived at Scharding at three in the afternoon, halting there for the night. We were now about to quit the Austrian territory, and to enter on that of Bavaria. We set out from Scharding on the 2d, at half past five in the morning, and arrived at Vilshoven, in the Bavarian territory, at eleven o'clock. In this part of the country the dress of the females, which consists of a sable garment, and a very large round black hat, appeared to us very singular. We arrived at Plathing at an early hour in the afternoon, when we desisted, for that day, from the further prosecution of our journey. Nothing can exceed in richness and luxuriance the Austrian territory through which we passed after our quilting Vienna : not an acre of uncultivated land was to be seen. In Bavaria the soil is not so good, nor are the dwellings of the inhabitants equally respectable. They are constructed of wood, with small cabin windows. The Bavarians are a healthy, robust, and well look- ing people, At five in the morning of the 3d we left Plathing, and in pur- suing our route to Batisbon, where we arrived at half past twelve o'clock, passed through the stages of Slraubing, and PJ 'aver. Ba- iisbon, the capital of Bavaria, is a fortified town situated on the bank of the Danube. The surrounding countrv is level, and pro- duces much corn, together with an inconsiderable quantity of hops. The roads in general, on the Bavarian territory, are excellent. On our reaching Batisbon we waited on Mr. Oakley, the British mi- nister, who was absent at the moment, but who called on us in the evening at our inn. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 343 On our departure from Ratisbon, early in the morning of the 4th, we crossed and quitted the Danube. It was near eight o'clock before we reached S'chambac, by a heavy and uneven road ; and were detained there until half past ten by the crazy condition of our carriages, which required some time to repair. The roads were still rough and bad, which prevented us from reaching the next stage, Tisswan, until noon. The face of the country, however, began to improve. Our subsequent stages were Terming and Pos- boiu'y the latter of which we reached in the afternoon. Our stage from Posbour to Feucht, on the morning of the 5th, was over a heavy and sandy road which passed through extensive. woods of firs and pines. We had now entered Franconia, where the dress of the female peasants differs essentially from that of the Bavarian women of the same class. The petticoat is worn of a great- er length ; and instead of the large and clumsy black felt hat, they wear a light one of straw, which, combined with the other parts of their dress, gives them a neat and agreeable appearance. The houses of the peasants are built of stone, with high well-tiled roofs, and with their gable ends towards the street. At half past six o'clock we left Feucht for Nuremberg, a large and well-built for- tified town. In performing the next stage we passed through Firlz, distant five miles from the latter place, a small but neat town, very pleasingly situated in a flat and fertile corn country. From Fomback, our next stage, we proceeded to Emskirken, and thence to Langerfeld and Possenheitu, the latter bringing us to our even- ing's halt. The first stage from Possenheim to Kitzing, we performed on the morning of the 6th. The country is rich, and abounds in corn fields and vineyards. The road to Wurtzburg passes through a fine open country, the gently sloping hills being laid out in vine- yards and fields of corn. Wurtzburg is a fortified town, very plea- singly situated in a rich valley. It is the seat of an university; and in addition to its very handsome cathedral, contains several fine churches. The palace of the Prince of Wurtzburg is a very superb building. In this place, which contains about ten thou- sand inhabitants, there are many handsome edifices belonging to the more opulent individuals. The citadel is on the opposite side of the river, which we crossed by a fine bridge, and arrived at Rosbrunby excellent roads and through a charming countrv, which has a great resemblance to Poland. From Rosbrun we proceeded to Eswlbach, over good roads which led through a hilly country. I 44 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, We arrived there at half past three in the afternoon, and as we could not obtain horses to take us forward, were obliged to re- main there for the night. We quitted Esselback on the 7th, at five in the morning, and proceeded to liohrbum and Essckaffenburg, a tiresome journey over rough and bad roads, in a hilly territory, planted with woods of beech, through which our road led. Being obliged to wait for horses at the latter of these places, we dined at the Three Crowns Inn, where we paid a most extravagant charge. We arrived at Dettingen at two in the afternoon ; and at half past four reached Hanau, an agreeable, neat, and well-built town, which contains a cathedral church, and several handsome public edifices. It be- longs to the principality of Hesse, and is regularly fortified. The soil in the vicinity of this place is sandy, and produces fine crops of corn, potatoes, and other vegetables. The roads leading to and from the town are delightful, having on each side rows of trees re- gularly planted. These avenues are very long, and afford a charm- ing prospect, as well as an agreeable shade. On quitting Hanau to proceed to Frankfort, we passed near the palace of the Prince of Hesse, very agreeably situated to the left of the town. The road to the latter place is kept in excellent order, and passes through a level country, well cultivated, and the soil of which is very rich. On our arrival, at seven in the evening, we took up our abode at the White Hart, a good and commodious inn. Frankfort is seated upon the river Main, and is a fortified town, containing about forty thousand inhabitants. The streets are well paved and clean, and the buildings handsome. The gar- rison consists of about three hundred Hessians. Frankfort has long been distinguished by its very extensive commerce, as well as by the fairs which are resorted to by merchants and dealers of every nation in Europe. The inhabitants of this place and of Hanau have a great resemblance, in their dress and general appearance, to the English. We were busied on the 8 th, in making our arrangements, and in putting our carriages into a state of repair, to set out for Cologn on the following morning. We had hesitated whether we should proceed thither by land or water: The former mode was, however, considered as the most eligible. On the 9th, at five in the morning, we quitted Frankfort, and arrived at Koenigstein at eight o'clock. The first part of the road is sandy ; but on approaching the above place it becomes hard and SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 34^ ioekv. Adjacent to the town we saw, on an elevated and rocky- ground, the remains of a fortress, which about five years before had been besieged and taken by the French, who had blown up the castle and works, and destroyed the greater part of the houses of the place, which belongs to the principality of Melitz. At noon we arrived at Wurges, a poor village in the province of Westpha- lia, after a journey over rough and heavy roads, intersecting a hilly and woody country, abounding in oaks, pines, firs, and beeches. Having quitted Wurges, we passed, at the end of an hour and a half, the celebrated spring which supplies the Seltzer water, so denominated from the adjacency of this spring to the place which bears that name. We stopped at a neighbouring village, and drank a bottle of the water, mixed with rhenish wine. It did not appear to me to be so agreeable to the palate as the artificial water made in imitation of it by a philosophical process. It is sold in long stone bottles, containing from three pints to two quarts, one of which cost six krutzers ; but the water, without the bottles, bears half that price only. We were informed that this spring is at pre- sent the property of the Prince of Grange, who, we were also told, had paid it a visit on the day preceding our arrival. At that time it was let to a private individual for a year. I should have mentioned that a building is erected over it, and that it is con- stantly guarded by a centinel. The peasants and laborious clas- ses in the neighbourhood drink the water, as a cooling and re- freshing beverage, in lieu of beer or wine. In other cases it is blended with the latter of these liquors as a comrrion drink. The women of Seltzer carry it on their heads in bottles for sale. The soil in the neighbourhood of the spring is a reddish earth, mixed with slate. At three in the afternoon we arrived at Limbourg, where we halted for the night. Notwithstanding this is one of the principal towns of Westphalia, the houses are very indifferent, and the streets very narrow. It is situated in a flat country, and adjacent to it there is an extensive manufactory of potters' ware, in which the bottles containing the Seltzer water arc made. We quitted Limbourg on the 10th, at half past five in the morn- ing; and at eight o'clock arrived at Gubroth. In performing this stage we passed through a fine corn country, embellished by wood- lands and lawns. Our next stage brought us to Frclingen by a very rough and bad road leading through a hilly and rocky country abounding in woods. At this place the habitations are wretched ( 44 ) 346 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, cabins, built of laths and mud, and quartered. The buildings in general, in this part of. the country, are much inferior to those we had met with in Austria, and even in Franconia and Bavaria. There is at the same time a greater proportion of uncultivated lands. The woods consist, for the greater part, of oaks and beeches. Rye is the description of grain more particularly cultivated; and of this bread is made for common use. It is very black, and has an unpleasant taste to those who are not accustomed to its use, but is held in great esteem by the inhabitants, who give it to their hor- ses on the road, when they stop to bait and water. At half past one o'clock we arrived at Walmerode by an old neglected chaussee, so uneven and rocky as to render our travelling very harassing and painful. We passed through a woody country abounding in corn. Our last stage this day was to Weycrsbacli, where we arrived at half past four in the afternoon, after having passed over a bad road similar to that of the preceding stage. Our carriages had suffered so much by the deplorable condition of the roads we had latterly met with, that at this place it became necessary to repair them. We left IVejjersbach on the 11th at a very early hour, and ar- rived successively at Echerot and Seighbourg, the latter of which places we reached at ten o'clock. The roads were still rough and uneven, but in some degree improved. The intermediate country is hilly, and abounds in woods and commons, with large tracts of land cultivated in corn. In the vicinity of S'eigbourg, the land flattens: close to the town there is, however, a rugged hill, having on its summit an extensive monastery. The town, which is of inconsiderable extent, is surrounded by a wall, and is very indiffe- rently built. We quitted it at half past ten in the morning, and at three in the afternoon arrived at Douz, by a tolerably good road, which led over a level country, having a loose and sandy soil. It having been recommended to us to take the route to Rotter- dam, by Dusseldorf, in preference to that of Calais by Cologn, we left Douz on the 12th at six in the morning. The latter is a small town, containing a few neat buildings, situated on the right bank of the Rhine, immediately opposite to Cologn, which ap- peared, from the distant view we had of it, to be a very fine and extensive place. ( At nine o'clock we arrived at Langenjield, situ- ated in an' agreeable and open level country, which supplies ample harvests ,©/ line clover, oats, and buck wheat. We set out from this place, after a short stay, and arrived at Dusseldorf at noon. On our route thither we stopped at the seat of the Prince Palatine, SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 347 called Bendrad, a very beautiful spot. The country through which we passed has an open surface, and is well cultivated, principally in corn lands. The town of Dusseldorf, situated on the right bank of the Rhine, contains a few good buildings, aud was for- merly a fortified place. The greater part of the houses are con- structed of red bricks, and tiled over. During our stay at this place we met with General llanold, by birth an Irishman, who had been forty years in the service of Austria. He informed us that during the late war, when the French besieged and took the place, they destroyed both the palace and the works. We saw the remains of the latter, in the ruinous condition in which they were left. We proceeded from Dusseldorf to Duysbourg. The dress of the peasants, who wear a blue frock, has a great resemblance to that of the English peasants. The breed of cows, spotted black and white, is large and beautiful. At this place the luggage is examined to prevent the passage of anv thing contraband ; but we extricated ourselves from the incon- venience that would have attended a search, by a present of a few florins. The town contains a few good buildings, and is surround- ed by a level, enclosed country. We left Duysbourg at five in the morning of the 1 3th, and at the distance of about two miles crossed the river Ruhr, which empties itself into the Rhine. The roads were extremely heavy and sandy, insomuch rhat we did not reach JVezel until ten o'clock. Notwithstanding this part of the country is enclosed, we met with much uncultivated land in the course of this stage. JVezel is a small but neat frontier town. The streets are well paved, and have on each side a row of fine trees. We were detained there three hours by a want of horses; and after having passed over a very heavy and sandy road, arrived at Reis at half past four in the af- ternoon. In this part the country is enclosed, and is highly produc- tive in corn. The gardens belonging to the inhabitants are prettily laid out, and are kept in the nicest order. The houses are small, but neatly fitted, and are constructed of red bricks, and tiled, with the gable ends towards the street. We were detained on the 14th, bv the want of horses, until' nine o'clock, when we proceeded on our journey. At the middle of the stage the postillions halted to bait the horses, which was, accordiiv- to the custom of the country, done by giving them slices of rve- bread, of which they are remarkably fond, and afterwards a drink of water. A,t half past eleven we passed near the small town of 348 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, Emerick, and an hour after were immediately opposite to Cleves on the other bank of the river. The road is good; and the coun- try through which it passes enclosed. The soil, which is of a loose, sandy texture, supplies abundant crops of barley and oats. Atone o'clock we reached Eltam, a small but neat town, at which we stopped to take refreshments. We passed afterwards through a small town called Seven ; and at half past five in the afternoon crossed a bridge of boats thrown over the Issel. We were now within the limits of the Dutch territory ; and in the space of half an hour arrived at Arnheini, where we took up our quarters for the night. In the course of this day's journey the roads were in ge- neral good, but in some places rather heavy. The country through which we passed is level, enclosed, and produces abundance of corn. The entrance to sirnheim is very agreeable; and the works kept in good repair. The town is remarkably neat, and the streets paved, rounded, and kept very clean. The houses, which are of brick and tiled, have a neat and compact appearance. The town of Aniheim is pleasantly situated on the right bank of the Rhine, near to which there are several fine sloping hills, to the right of the town, covered with beautiful woods and groves. With the exception of these hills the surrounding country is fiat, and divided into small enclosures. The breed of large and fine horses, commonly called the Flanders breed, is employed here, as it is in many parts of Gainany, for the team and the plough. The dairies produce excellent butter and cheese. The milk-women carry the milk on their shoulders in large brass vessels, which are kept remarkably clean and bright, On the 15th in the morning we quitted Arnheun at half past five o'clock, and wcie much gratified on our way by the extreme neatness of the cultivated grounds, which furnished a strong evi- dence of the ability and industry of the agriculturists. The neat and compact appearance of the Dutch houses and gardens, toge- ther with the plain decent dres.s of the inhabitants, surpassed, with respect to cleanliness and propriety, all that we had before seen on our route. The roads in Holland, leading along the dams, or causeways, are excellent. Nothing can be urged against them, unless it be their narrowness, which requires some caution and cir- cumspection, as well as an extreme sobriety, on the part of the dri- veri. This is a fine country for corn and grasses; and here the willows grow in abundance, with an extraordinary luxuriance. t\t the iame time that woods are no where to be met with, there is ncjt SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 349 any deficiency of timber; and accordingly we met on our route with a considerable number of ashes, poplars, elms, and aspens, together with a few oaks. To this list may be added an abundance of apple and walnut trees. Fruits of every description known in Europe, are, as well as the different vegetable productions, in equal plenty 5 and it may be said with truth, that few countries are better supplied with the more es- sential articles of life than Holland. In the gardens, and grounds adjoining to the dwellings, tobacco is cultivated with great success. We halted at half past seven o'clock, to enable the horses to bait : they were fed with bread in the same way as before noticed. Ha- ving prosecuted our journey, we arrived at a small house, directly opposite to Rhenen, an inconsiderable town on the right bank of the Rhine, surrounded, however, with fine vineyards. At this place we had to cross the river in a fiat boat, or ferry, kept ex- pressly there, to convev passengers, and their carriages and lug- gage, to the other side. Having quitted, by this conveyance, the left bank, and again set forward on our route, we soon after pas- sed near the little but neat town of Arneron, embellished by ave- nues of fine elms and oaks, and surrounded by groves and agreea- ble walks. No country could be more pleasing than that through which we were now passing; and in spite of the emotions we felt on a recollection of the charming romantic scenery, and pic- turesque views of Austria, still we could not help regarding Hol- land as the land of real comfort and delight to the traveller. At half past one we arrived at Fag Jhusted, a small town, which we merely skirted in passing, and took some refreshment in the suburb, while the horses were baiting. At half past five in the afternoon we arrived at Utrecht, where we reposed after our fatigues. The spring of one of our carriages being broken, it was necessary to put it in a good condition for the following day. Utrecht is a large and handsome town, containing many good buildings, the studied and uniform neatness of which must attract the admiration of every passenger. In the centre of each of the streets a canal runs, on which vessels and boats are constantly na- vigating, for traffic and pleasure. On each side of these canals a row of fine trees, nicely trimmed, is planted; and over them bridges are thrown at convenient distances, to conduct the pas- sengers from the one side of the street to the other. This arrange- ment has a very agreeable efFect, to which the cleanliness of the streets, carefully paved on each side, contributes not a little. We 350 TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, were lodged at the hotel called the new castle on the Gausen- markt. The landlord of this hotel speaks English ; and did not, as we had some reason to apprehend, make us pay for the trou- ble he had taken to acquire this knowledge of a foreign tongue. His charges were moderate ; and he treated us with great civility. On the 16th, at half past five in the morning, we quitted Utretchty the works of which attracted our notice on passing with- out the gates. They were in the nicest order; as were also the roads, which led through avenues of fine chesnuts and elms, af- fording cool and shady walks in the warm season. Boats filled with passengers and merchandizes are drawn by .horses stationed on the banks of the canals, and are thus conveyed to and from the town. In this way the inhabitants are enabled to travel at a cheap and easy rate, and to reach the other canals, by which the Bata- vian territory is every where intersected. Our road passed along the bank of one of these canals, at the side of which we noticed several neat and pretty villas, belonging to the inhabitants of Utrecht, with gardens laid out in the nicest taste and order. The smallest and poorest cottage which we met with on our route,- dis- played an air of cheerfulness and neatness which announced the comparatively easy and comfortable condition of the humble in- mates to whom it furnished an asylum. In this part of Holland the lands for the greater part are laid out in pasturage. There is, however, a partial produce of wheat, barley, and oats, toge- ther with peas, vetches, clover, and hay. The harvests of hay and barley were at this time just commenced ; but the ripening of the wheat and oats still appeared to require two or three weeks. We halted on our way to bait the horses; and between eight and nine o'clock passed through a small town called Ahwahter, the works and buildings of which were in the same admirable order with those we had hitherto seen in our route through a considera- ble part of Holland. Every thing, in short, announced the pros- perity of the inhabitants ; and in every dwelling cheerfulness and tranquillity appeared to reside. . Hitherto the roads, on this day's journey, were excellent, and planted with fine avenues ot trees. At nine o'clock we arrived at Astracht, a small village, where we baited our horses. Every part of the country being intersected by <]ykes, or canals, it was curious to observe, that almost every house situated without the towns or villages, being surrounded and en- closed by water, was provided with a bridge placed before the en- trance. Near the great towns draw-bridges are employed for tb>. SYRIA, EGYPT, GERMANY, &C. 351 purpose. At ten o'clock we passed through Terchoh, a small and neat town, standing in a delightful situation. The fronts of the houses, which are well built, and in nice order, are shaded with trees ; and in the middle of the streets there are canals, with bridges thrown over them, similar to those I have already described. On leaving this place we entered- on an excellent road, paved with Dutch clinkers, and having at each side a row of beautiful elms. This road, we were told by our postillions, would conduct us to Rotterdam*, a distance of ten miles, without any variation in its embellishments, and in the same .perfect state of repair. At half past ten o'clock we passed through a small town, consisting of one principal street only; but- which, for the neatness and cleanliness both of the dwellings, and inhabitants, exceeded all that we had seen before. At eleven o'clock we haired to bait our horses, and take refreshments; and again set forward at noon. In approach- ing Rotterdam, the pasture-grounds are excellent, and are filled with cattle of the Flemish breed, such as I have already noticed. We enteredi;the>suburbs, and were^ surprised at the neatness, and even elegance of the buildings, each of which has a draw-bridge in its front. 7'he gardens are laid out with great taste, and pret- tily embellished. We reached Rotterdam at one o'clock, and took up our abode- for the remainder of the day, and for the night, at the hotel called the Boor's Head, a good house, where English is spoken. Rotterdam is a charming town, which; contains about sixty thousand inhabitants, who, in common with those of all the Dutch towns, are sensible of the error into which they fell, when they solicited and favoured an alliance with the French. They will have long to regret their dearly bought experience. With the exception of a short route to the sea side, I had now completed my tour through Holland, with which I could not be otherwise than highly gratified. It is beyond a controversy, that the Dutch towns and dwellings are superior, in the essential qua- lities of neatness and cleanliness, to those of any other country ; and of the justness of this remark, which has been so often made, we had the fullest evidence at every place through which we passed. Thedressof the inhabitants of a superior class, and of the trades-peo- ple, resembles, bv its unadorned simplicity, that of the English quakers. To conclude: — Since my departure from Great Britain, I had not seen any country in which I could have resided so cheer- fully, and with so much pleasure, as in Holland. I am sensible, that in hazarding this opinion I am not in strict accordance with 35^ TRAVELS IN ASIATIC TURKEY, the definition which a great authority, Sir William Temple, has given of that country.* On the nth, at seven in the morning, we embarked in a Dutch passage-boat for Helvoetsluys • but as it blew a fresh gale from the westward, with showery and uncertain weather, we were not able to reach our destination, within six miles of which we were land- ed at ten o'clock. Having procured carriages, we arrived at Hel- voetsluys at noon. The country through which we passed is flat, intersected with dykes. It is cultivated in corn, flax, clover, &c< On our arrival, we found the Diana, an English packet, Cap- tain Stewart, ready to sail, but waiting for a favourable wind. Under these circumstances we took up our residence at the English hotel, where we were detained for the two following days. Helvoetsluys is a poor, but fortified town. An extensive basin, or dock, was, at the time of our arrival, under repair ; and in the harbour were lying two fine ships of war recentlv built. On the 20th, the weather being more moderate than it had been for some time past, we were called early in the morning, and ha- ving embarked, sailed at seven o'clock. The wind, which was northwest, not being favourable, we were under the necessity of making short tacks ; but by the help of the title, were clear of the flats at ten o'clock. These flats, or sand-banks, are very nume- rous, and attended with much hazard. On the morning of the 21 sr, the wind Having become more fa- vourable, from the east-south-east, land was descried on the lar- board quarter, at nine o'clock, by the seaman at the mast-head; and at half past ten we were gladdened by the view of what our captain announced to us to be Orfordness. At three in the afternoon we anchored at Harwich, where we immediately landed. I shall not undertake to describe the sensations I felt when I set off to rejoin my family, after so long an absence; nor shall I attempt, what is beyond the gift of expression, to mark all the gratitude I felt to the Supreme Being, who had safely conducted me through the many perils I had had to encounter, and to which I had been more particularly exposed by my professional situation with the British Military Mission. * This definition, which is singular, and replete with aphorisms, is as follows : ,{ Holland is a country where the earth is better than the air, and profit more in request " than honour. Where there is more sense than wit; more good nature than good " humour ; and more wealth than pleasure. Where a man would chuse rather to tra- ** vel than to live ; shall find rrtore things to observe than to desire ; and mere persons M to esteem than to love." iMEDICAL JOURNAL. SYRIA and EGYPT, From July 1800, to March 1802. THE military mission joined the army of the Grand Vizier on the beginning of July 1800, in good health: towards the end of July and August the men became sickly ; cholera, diar- rhoea, and dysentery were the prevailing diseases : And at the lat- ter end of August, when great dews fell during the night, more particularly on the 26th, a bilious remittent fever accompanied with malignant symptoms, made its appearance. In the month of September it proved fatal to two military artificers. The symp- toms which ushered in this disease were cold rigors, head-ach, prostration of strength, pain of stomach and abdomen, nausea and bitter taste of the mouth, with copious vomitings of yellow and green bile (some had bilious diarrhoea) ; a foul yellow tongue, great thirst, a quick, pulse, hot skin, and quickened respiration. The mode of treatment adopted, was speedily to evacuate the contents of the prima? viae, by the tartarised antimony, in solution, in small repeated doses ; with aperients of crem tartar, infusion senna;, and Epsom salts, followed by a dose of laudanum and anti- naonial wine, to allay irritation, and exoite perspiration, which was encouraged by pediluvium. The emetic and purge seldom failed to afford some apparent relief to the patients. Calomel, laudanum, and antimony, were then continued in such doses as the symptoms indicated, until the remission of fever took place, which, for the most part, was about the third or fourth day, (45) 354 MEDICAL JOURNAL;, when the Peruvian hark was administered in varied forms. We were without wine. Where the disease took an unfavourable turn, it was accompanied with delirium, red eyes, and petechial spots on the skin, &c. Blisters and svnapisms were had recourse to upon such occasions. In some of the cases, dysenteric symptoms were conjoined to the disease. The regimen was weak chicken broth, rice gruel, with lemonade, rice water, and bread tea. It sometimes happened that the patients, in place of being at- tacked suddenly, drooped day after day : in such rases their recovery was generally more slow than that of the former. The weather, during the day, was at this time hot; Fahrenheit's thermometer, in shade, ranging at noon from 90 to 93. The evenings and mornings were cool; thermometer 68 to 70, accompanied with copious dews and togs. In the month of October, some cases of typhus simplex occur- red, and dysentery continued to prevail. Occasional heavy showers of rain fell about the 23d. The extremely filthy and unwholesome condition of the Otto- man camp, excited in me great appiehensions that putrid and ma- lignant diseases would certainly be generated, unless some neces- sary steps were taken to remedy the impending evil. With the approbation of General Koehler, I wrote to the Grand Vizier, and stated to him with concern, the great numbers of dead putrid carcasses of animals, camels, horses, Sec. &c. dispersed over the w r hole of the camp, which were suffered to remain uncovered, -quietly to corrupt and decay; exhaling the most intolerable putrid effluvia imaginable, insomuch, that serious diseases might be ex- pected to appear, unless this intolerable nuisance should be speedily removed. These admonitions were thankfully received, yet pro- duced but little reform. The ground of the encampment was not changed, as was advised. A feeble effort was continued for three days only, to lessen the accumulation of putrid matter, and then every such exertion ended. We were at length under the neces- sity of hiring Arabs daily, to bury the dead carcasses of camels, horses, asses, s firm than on the Tth ; the tongue had a brownish tinge upon it ; he had two stools during the night ; a blister was applied to the nape of the neck ; bark, with vitriolic acid, were given liberally, and repeated doses of laudanum ; he was ordered to eat freely of oranges, and drink lemonade ; the head was shaved, and cloths moistened with vinegar repeatedly applied. Towards evening the pulse became more full, accompanied with a restlessness, and a low muttering delirium ; a blister was applied to the whole of the surface of the head; petechial spots appeared upon the breast in the evening ; the pulse became more weak and quick (120) ; the strength diminish- ed, with an anxiety and quickness in breathing. He began to throw up the bark, &c. Dec. 9. Had passed a restless night, with low delirium; pulse quick and feeble (120); arms cold; he was constantly picking at the bed-clothes ; tongue and mouth brown and dry ; he did not appear sensible of the pain of the blisters; passed urine involunta- rily; a blister was applied to the thighs, and the medicines conti- nued. About noon stimulating sinapisms of garlic were applied to the feet. In the evening he passed several black stools involunta- rily; restlessness continued; arms cold; pulse quick and feeble (130) ; medicines- continued ; the laudanum draught, with antimo- nial wine, repeated at bed-time. Dec. 10. He passed a very restless night ; stupor continued, with stertoreous breathing ; skin cold ; pulse quick and feeble .'130). He expired in the afternoon. 372 MEDICAL JOURNAL, CASES OF PLAGUE. CASE I. A civil artificer, Mace, thirty years of age, was taken, during the night of the 10th December J 800, with severe rigors, vertigo, head-ach, and severe pains in the loins, thighs, &c. accompanied with nausea, and vomiting of green bile. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 1 1th December I first saw him ; his skin was very hot, though moist, with a burning kind of feel to the touch ; a quick and rather firm pulse (120). He complained of much head- ach ; the eyes were red ; tongue tinged, rather of a yellow colour ; great thirst ; the pains of the back and thighs acute. He had had three stools during the night : an antimonial emetic was immedi- ately given, and after its operation ten grains of calomel, and a so- lution of Epsom salts. The common drinks were to be lemonade and rice-water ; to eat freely of oranges. The emetic removed much bile, which gave the patient some sensible relief. The ca- lomel and salts not having procured any evacuation by stool, the former was repeated, and a dose of laudanum \^ith antimonial wine at bed-time, after the evacuations had been procured. He com- plained of pain in the groin • and there was a small enlargement in the left inguinal glands. The pain from this tumor became so extremely acute, that I was called to him about four o'clock in the morning of the 12th. It had then swollen to the size of a pige- on's egg. The bubo was fomented with warm water, and an ano- dyne draught given. At eight o'clock in the morning of the 12th, when I visited the patient, the attendant reponed, that the fomen- tion had relieved the pain of the tumor, since which he had thrown up his drinks, and was now fallen into a sleep. He expired suddenly about nine o'clock, A.M. 12th Decem- ber. The bedclothes being removed, many large livid (nearly black) spots, of the size of a silver threepence, covered the breast, and other parts of the body. hi each axillaa there was a bubo of the size nearly of a hen's egg. The bubo in the groin was of a dark livid colour. Some Arabs were employed quickly to inter the corpse. The very strongly marked symptoms of plague in this case gave rise to the utmost vigilance and precaution to prevent the infection from spreading. With this intention all the clothes, bedding, Sec. Sec. SYRIA AND EGYPT. 373 used by the sick were immediately burned. Two attendants within the hiifpital-tent, as well as a patient suffering under typhus, were put into a state of quarantine, and certain regulations already no- ticed in my narrative, were instantly adopted to prevent the infec- tion from spreading. The oily frictions were had recourse to upon the three men within the hospital-tent. Upon enquiry, the deceased had been accustomed to frequent the Turkish coffee-tents, to smoke and drink coffee. This was prohibited in future. CASE IT. Gunner Cowden, aged 30, an artillery-man, had a slight indis- position on the evening of the 13th December 1800. He had some head-ach, and a little heat of skin. In the morning of the 14th December, he complained of nausea; the tongue was white, having a yellowish streak upon it ; thirst prevailed, and the head-ach and febrile symptoms were increased. He had a trembling upon him, and appeared a good deal agitated; some stiffness and uneasiness in the left srroin. He related, that contrary to order, he had not only entered the tent of Mace, on the morning of the 1 2th December, but had supported him while he took his medicine. The patient was put into a clean tent by himself, within the qua- rantine enclosure. An emetic was given, the operation of which having somewhat relieved him, he was ordered an anodyne, with antimonial wine, in a draught at bed-time. Lemonade was ordered lor common drink ; and a calomel bolus in the morning. Dec. 15. The febrile symptoms continued; countenance flush- ed ; eyes red ; tongue foul and dry ; there was a painful tumor in the left groin, the size of a pigeon's egg, has had stools. The oily frictions were made use of this morning, and the anodyne and antimonial draught repeated at bed-time. Dec. 16. The patient perspired copiously after the oily friction : tumour neither enlarged nor more painful; the heat of skin dimi- nished; countenance rather pale; eyes clear; one stool ; tongue white: he was rather slow in answering questions . the friction was repeated this morning. Soon after he had a vomiting of bile, and had loose stools: small draughts of warm water were given, fol- lowed by a dose of laudanum. jp0C. r l1. Passed a restless night ; occasionally delirious; vo- miting had ceased ; looseness continued; tongue white, with great 374 MEDICAL JOURNAL, thirst , the bubo in the groin had a blackish colour ; when he was sensible, he complained of general pains; the perspiration frtomthe frictions continued. Several purple spots upon different parts of the body : the anodyne without the antimonial wine repeated. Dec. 18. Passed a restless night ; delirium continued; loose- ness abated ; only two stools the last twenty-four hours ; tongue white, with great thirst ; the petechias more numerous : the bubo rather diminished, but retaining the blackish colour ; skin hot and dry ; repeated the friction in the morning. However, about one o'clock P. M. he was very restless and delirious, and attempted to get out of the tent : after these efforts he became more calm, and at four o'clock P. M. expired. The body was interred by Arabs immediately, and the tent, and every article within it, destroyed by fire. A case of Lues Venerea, with secondary symptoms, cured by Ni- trous Acid, at Cairo. A civil artificer, Alley, had several extensive venereal ulcerati- ons in the throat, upon the tonsils, and posterior part of the palate, accompanied with venereal blotches upon the face, legs, &c. He had likewise chancres. He had taken no medicine whatever. 1S01. Oct. 21. I ordered him the nitrous acid, diluted in the usual manner, and gradually increased the daily dose of one drachm to two and three drachms. In the use of this remedy he persevered without any interruption, gradually getting better, until the 29th November, when he complained of pain, and uneasiness of the stomach from the medicine, which induced me to lay it aside for a few days, and to substitute to it the oxygenated muriate of potash, in doses of fifteen grains four times daily. Perceiving on the 6th December a small recent ulcer on the left tonsil, I resumed the use of the acid in doses of two and three drachms daily, in the usual diluted manner ; and continued this treatment until the 16th December, when the throat, chancres, and eruptions upon the skin, had perfectly disappeared. During the cure a solution of cerussa acetata, with lint, was applied to the chancres. Not one grain of mercury in any shape was employed in the above case. The general health and strength of the patient were much im- proved during the use of the acid= SYRIA AND EGYPT. 375 An Abstract of Officers, np?i-commissioned Officers, Privates, Skc. who composed the Military Mission in 1799. Officers, royal artillery, royal engineers, occ. &c. . .13 Non-commissioned, officers and privates, royal artillery , . 30 Non-commissioned officers and privates of the royal military artificers 24 Civil artificers 9 Total 16 N. 1>. With these IS women and 16 children left England, An abstract of deaths of Officers and Men, from January 1799, to October 1 802. Diseases which proved fatal. Fever, malignant, bilious, remittent . Dysentery Plague Drowned . " Pectoral complaints Diseased iiver Convulsive affection, apparently brought on by extreme fatigue and great expo- sure to the sun Total . The number of deaths from each disease. 12 Twoofthesewe.re 4 Officers. 2 3 •2 1 1 An Officer. : 5' N.B. Three women and six children died from fever, dysentery, con- vulsions, &c. One of the women died under suspicious symptoms of plague. * Several deaths among the privates have happened since I left Alexandria. Two of them were cases of plague. 376 HISTORICAL JOURNAL, HISTORICAL JOURNAL OF PLAGUE. AS I have neither the 'intention' nor ability to enter fully into the general history of plague, with all its varieties and par- ticulars, 1 must refer the reader, who may wish for such general information, to those authors who have professedly written upon the subject ; and confine myself to the relation of the incidents and facts collected in the country, with the several cases of plague which I have seen, and also heard described. I trust and hope, that as these remarks are noticed and detailed faithfully, and no particular hypothesis espoused by me at the time they were written, I shall have less apprehension of incurring the suspicion, either of having written with a view to support a particular theory, or of claiming any merit from the mode of treatment suggested. In the most violent attacks of plague the vital principle appears to be suddenly, in a great measure, extinguished ; or otherwise so much enfeebled, as to render the system capable of resisting the first shock of the disease only for a very short time. Examples of this kind occurred. Several of the sepoys of the Indian army in Egypt, and others, appeared to sink under the first impression of the contagion, their attack being sudden, in- stantaneous, and violent. I was informed that several dropt down when in the ranks, and died within a few hours afterwards. A civil artificer died after thirty-six hours illness. A choarbadgi, or colonel of janissaries, died at the expiration of two days, within our buildings at Cairo. The death of these two individuals was instantaneous, and without a struggle. The plague may be defined to be a disease sui generis, which can affect persons more than once in their lives ; and, from a vari- ety of circumstances, is evidently contagious. The most evident and leading symptoms which attend this dread- ful malady, arehead-ach ; more or less fever; thirst; generally an intense or burning internal heat about the pracordia ; nausea, and occasional vomiting ; the vessels of the eves are turgid, accompa- nied with diarrhoea (which is often a troublesome and dangerous symptom); hemorrhages; delirium; petechia?, and large livid OF PLAGUE. 377 spots cover the body in different parts; buboes in the groin, axil- lae, &c ; carbuncles ; an early and great prostration of strength, &c. &C. Sometimes the disease is ushered in suddenly and violently; at others the symptoms commence more slowly, and with more mo- deration. This variety and manner in the mode of attack may pro- bably depend upon some particular disposition or constitution of the subject, or nature of the prevailing epidemic. Upon the decline of the plague season, several patients are seen to recover : The symptoms of the disease at this period are more mo- derate, and favourable to recovery. We had examples of this kind while with the Ottoman armv at Jaffa, &c. in Syria. The same fact is observed at Constantinople. Although it has been noticed that the plague does not frequently attack the same person more than once in the same pestiferous season, yet there are instances where this has happened, and where the relapses which have oc- curred have proved fatal. The great Mameluke chief, Mourad Bey, fell a victim to a se- cond attack in 1801. The constitutions have been thought more secure from a second attack, or even relapse of disease, when the suppurations have been more complete. A good suppuration afforded the natives a good prognosis, they thinking it gave a more favourable issue to the disease. When the buboes subside, in place of corning forward, appre- hensions are always entertained for the safety of the patient; for which reason warm plaisters and cataplasms are applied. However, the perfect or imperfect suppuration of buboes appears rather as an index of the state of the vital energy in the system, than necessary or useful as an outlet for morbific matter. The pain of the buboes is sometimes most excruciating, and the surfaces are at times disco- loured even to a livid or deep black colour ; at other times the pain is trifling, accompanied with little or no discolouration of the skin. It is singular, that at this present day there should exist opposite opinions respecting the contagious principle of plague. There arc professional men who have come forward, published, and disavow- ed the contagion of plague. There are others who have so far en- couraged and adopted this dangerous doctrine, as to have put it to rhc test of experiment by the inoculation of themselves. Dr White, formerly a navy surgeon, when in Egypt in 1801, had (48 ) 378 HISTORICAL JOURNAL the temerity to inoculate himself in the arms with recent matter taken from the bubo of a pestiferous patient.* and likewise rubbed the same matter upon different parts of his body. Not content with endangering his own life, he wrapt his Arab servant in the bedding of an individual lately dead of plague. The disease was fully produced upon himself, and buboes formed. He died, I be- lieve the fourth day from attack. The Arab fled. I had endea- voured to discourage him from pursuing this dangerous opinion, that the plague was not contagious, the contrary appearing so ma- nifest to me upon a variety of occasions. To corroborate this latter opinion, I have to relate some few facts. A.pelice, the property of a Turk who died from plague, was given to another, who, without fear or thought, put it on his back, caught the infection, and quickly died. In this way this pelice might have passed into the hands of twenty more, with the same apathy and fatal effects. A gunner of artillery belonging to the military mission entered the tent of a pestiferous patient, contrary to orders; supported t)\e shoulders of the patient, while he took drink; immediately caught the infection, and died at the end of five days, with bu- boes and symptoms of plague. Fide case of gunner Cowden, page 373. I received information from the Imperial Consul and others at Cairo, that in 1801, a vessel arrived at Jhulac from Upper Egypt, laden with senna. The crew related to the consul, that they had lost two men after twenty-four hours illness, which report, from all the accounts he could collect, induced him to believe the disease to have been plague. He made known the circumstance, and the necessity there was for the vessel to be put under quarantine, pre- viously to her departure for Upper Egypt. His laudable advice was neglected, although he had been a resident in Egypt forty years. On the arrival of the vessel at the place of destination in Upper Egypt, only one of the crew was alive to relate the dismal story; the rest had fallen victims to the plague on their passage. This unfortunate man transported with him the seeds of the dis- ease to his home, where he soon died, and many others likewise. We met, even among the Turks, with some individuals who believed in, and were aware of, the contagious property of plague. * Sir Robert Wilson s?.ys, this was dene to try the effects of inoculation, as in small- pox, and to ascertain whether it would produce a^milder disease. OF PLAGUE. 379 Mahmoud Reif EJfendi, the Reis Effendi, or secretary of state for foreign affai:_v. was extremely watchful and attentive to keep the disease and infection from himself and suite, by assiduously adopting fumigations of sulphur, &c. before and after every visit which he made in camp, and by not suffering a visit from any one suspected, without ventilation, fumigation of his tent, sophas, &c. &c. Even the religious bar among the Mahomedans respect- ing wine he readily overcame, when told that with bark it was a good preservative. An old barber doctor in Cairo died in the year 1 801, from plague, at the advanced age of ninety-six years. This man had long been celebrated among pestiferous patients, attended, and bled them occasionally, and at the age of ninety-six years caught, for the first time, the infection, under which he sunk. A person in Cairo, interpreter to a French officer, who had fallen a victim to plague in 1801, caught the infection from his master, and communicated the disease to his mother, niece, and another person within the same house, all of whom died, while two small children in the same family escaped infection. The interpreter related to me the manner of attack, tke. &c. The first symptom of indisposition which he was sensible of, was a small pimple, situated upon the lower part of the abdomen, which rapidly inflamed, enlarged, and became painful, surrounded with a livid circle. At this time he was seized with shiverings, follow- ed by an intense burning heat, internal as well as external, accom- panied with head-ach, and pains of the knees and joints. He had a nausea and vomiting, and a bubo appeared in each groin. In two or three days a looseness came on. To the buboes a pitch plaster was applied to promote suppurati- on, which, when effected, they were opened. The carbuncle, which formed from the pimple upon the abdomen, was left to burst of itself. The patient took no medicines ; he was aware of the nature of his complaint, and kept his mind tranquil; as he was thoroughly convinced that this was absolutely necessary for his own safety, He made use of a light diet. It is, indeed, pretty generally remarked, that tranquillity of mind is of the utmost importance in plague. It is observed by the French, that the plague which comes U'Oiw Upper Egypt, is the most active and fatal ; it is true, that the irear 1801 afforded a dreadful example of its malignity and destructive 380 HISTORICAL JOURNAL influence. The disease was so general, and so fatal where it rageJ. that whole villages, towns, and districts, had their inhabitants swept off by this cruel scourge, while the cattle were straying about for food and owners.* The disease is said to travel progressively from Damascus in Syria, from town to town, until it arrives in Egypt. Sometimes it commences at Cairo, and travels through Syria ; and then the intermediate towns and places, one after the other, suffer this scourge of human affliction. Those who believe that plague is not contagious, support their opinions by bringing forward a number of incidents to prove, " that persons who have been exposed to pestiferous patients, and " who have had communication with supposed infected merchan- " dize, clothes, &c. £cc. have escaped without receiving the infec- " tion." The same rhing happens nearly with small-pox. Indeed, repeated inoculations are occasionally absolutely necessary to pro- duce the variolous infection. This fact would seem to imply, that a certain susceptibility is required to receive the infection. Although an individual may have happilv escaped infection at one time, vet it does not follow that the same good fortune may attend him at another; this same want of susceptibility, or what- ever may be the power of resisting its baneful effects, may not alwavs continue to pervade the habit: and, therefore, the neglect of laudable, useful, and necessary precautions, may tend ultimately to overthrow the most hardy and intrepid; more particularly as the o-eneral curative means are so extremely deficient, or inefficacious in plague. With all these facts before my eyes, I have been astonished at the indifference of the Musselmai employed in the burial of the dead, to see them handle and touch the bodies of pestiferous subjects, as though they had died of common diseases. Every corpse of a Mus- sulman is regularly washed and shaved before interment ; and these interments are compleat nuisances, the body being scarcely covered by the earth. The putrid exhalations, therefore, from their ceme- teries, or burial-grounds, are prodigiously offensive in hot weather. The persons employed in the interments, are, however, said to catch the disease occasionally and die. * This remark.of the French does not correspond exactly with t're information which I collected in Esypt, at Cairo: from the most respectable inhabitrfhts I was informed, that the plague is not only less frequent in Upper Egypt than in Lcv:er Egypt, but that the most violent cas:s of infection. were thought in general to be imported from Syria and Lower Egypt, OF PLAGUE. 381 Query. Probably the same active infection is not to be received from the dead subject as from the living ? It being said, " that the " most favourable and sure period for the propagation of plague, is " during the state of fever. A person long resident in Egypt assured me, " that the disease, ** for the most part, appeared among the inhabitants in the follow- " ins: order. " Blacks and negroes, " Mamelukes and whites; and lastly, " The natives of the country." In these pestiferous countries, the precautions which the Chris- tians take, render them less subject to plague than the Mahome- tans. Yet we are told, that out of 270 Greeks, inhabitants of Cairo, seventy died of plague in 1801. The Bedouin Arabs of the desert, are said to be much less subject to plague, than the Fellahs, or Arab inhabitants of towns and villages. It is generally remarked, that a deviation from a light diet under this disease, and after its recent disappearance, is frequently produc- tive of mischief, in as much as it favours a relapse, or protracts re- covery. The danger is proportioned to the diminution of vital energy, and extent of fever. Deaths happen from the first to the seventh, and even eleventh days of the disease; the most frequent from the fourth to the eleventh day: yet fatal terminations occur often at the expiration of twelve or twenty-four hours. Among the youths and middle aged there is said to be the greatest number of deaths. In Egypt, the plague prevails when the Nile is low, about the months of March, April, May, and June; at the latter end of June, the disease is for the most part observed to be upon the de- cline. At this period the weather is extremely hot, and the heat generally continues during the months of July and August. In June 1801, Eahrenheifs thermometer fluctuated in the shade at Cairo, from 100 to 108 degrees; while in July and August the highest was 106 degrees: the heat was oppressive, being reflected from the neighbouring mountains of Mokkatam. At Constantinople, the cold weather in winter is observed to put a stop to plague. We have therefore seen, that the extremes of heat and cold are unfavourable to the propagation of plague. Since the trade with Egynt has been interrupted during the war, Constantinople has suffered but little from plague for the three last 32 HISTORICAL JOURNAL ■years. From the best information received, and observations re- cently made, it would appear that the plague is a native of Africa, and of Asia. It is remarked by the inhabitants, that the disease is more prevalent at Rosetta, than in any other town or part of Egypt. The streets of Rosetta are extremely narrow and very dirty. The manner in which the inhabitants live croudedly toge- ther, would appear sufficient, in a stagnant state of the atmosphere, in most of their towns, &c. to generate pestilential or malignant diseases. The very few comforts and conveniencies which fall to the lot of the poorer class of the natives in Egypt, by far the most numerous, would lead one naturally to expect great mortality when the plague prevails among them. Dreadful examples are seen an- nually to happen. When I was at Rosetta, in February 1802, I perceived swampy, bogp-y grounds near to the town, the ditches, and small canals contiguous to which, and the gardens, had offensive stagnant wa- ters within them.* At this time the plague had broken out at Rosetta, and furnished several fatal examples to the English, Greeks, and Arabs. The fears and apprehensions were so great at Alexandria, respecting the communication with Rosetta, that the Commander in Chief, Lord Cavan, obliged all vessels and per- sons coming from the latter place, to perform quarantine previously to their entry into Alexandria. The disease had appeared at Alexandria before I left it in March, and several had died in the lazaretto. This contagion was supposed to have been imported from Rosetta. The plague is ge- nerally observed to commence in commercial places ; and this cir- cumstance probably gave rise to the idea, that contagion was im- ported in articles of merchandize, &c. from distant parts. f * This observation, connected with the preceding one, that the plague prevails when the Nik is low, appears to render it probable that this disease is merely a malig- nant remittent fever. This will appear still more probable, when it is considered, that buboes and glandular abscesses are common in Syria, in cases where the plague is not supposed to be concerned. Sir Robert Wilson appears to have formed the above opinion. See his Work. Also see Journal of Syria i Feb. 7, 1S01. ■\ Dr. Mead has thus written in his Discourse upon Pl?gue, page 263. " From all « that has been said it appears very plainly, that the plague is a real poison, which, be- " 3ng bred in the southern parts of the world, is carried by commerce into other coun- " tries, particularly into Turkey, where it maintains itself by a kind of circulation from " opsins to goods', which is chiefly owing to the negligence of the people there, who " ari stupidly careless in this affair: that when the constitution of the air happens to " favour infection, it rages there with great violence: that at that time more especially " disease! persons give it to one another, and from them contagious matter is lodged in. « goods of r. loose ' ar,d soft texture, whith, being, packed up, and carried into other OF PRAGUE. $Sj At the termination of the plague season, when one may natural- ly suppose that there is the greatest accumulation of infected mate- rials, clothing, bedding, tents, <5cc. it is singular (unless heat be admitted as an useful agent in destroying contagion), that the dis- ease should, as it were, disappear of itself, and that rather sud- denly.* A fever with malignant symptoms prevailed in the neighbour- hood of Constantinople in the autumn of 1799. Several fatal cases of this fever, which have been already detailed, occurred in the military mission in barracks at Levant Chift-ick. The deaths happened from the fifth to the seventh day. The fever was accompanied with occasional sailowness, or yellow co- lour of the skin, dark livid spots, petechias, and a train of unfa- vourable symptoms. However, the characteristics of plague were not present ; there were neither glandular swellings, buboes, nor carbuncles, &c. When the Nile is low, and when the soil of Egypt is in the highest state of dryness, which happens about the months of April, May, and June, eddies of wind carry into the air great quantities of fine dust. About this time the hot kampsin winds blow from the south and south-east occasionally, raising immense clouds of this fine subtle dust into the atmosphere, to the great distress of all animals. The inconvenience which occasionally ensues from these hot scorching winds is very great toman, as well as to animals. Ca- mels, fowls, &c. are said to have perished at Belheis and elsewhere jnthe month of June 1S01 . This wind is called kampsin, which in Arab implies fifty, to denote that these winds will occasionally blow during the space of fifty days. From them the skin becomes dry and parched, producing great langour, and prostration of strength, which take off all ability and inclination to move. The whole of the atmosphere is at this time obscured with the dust, which is so very subtle, that it pervades the nicest fastening. The air feels as though issuing from the mouth of an oven, and the sands as though it Buy ukders. in Turkey. Thermometer, Thermometer, Thermometer, 1 o Morning. Noon. Evenikg. u u -0 r a Force f . ot the jj 3 a .a Force of the 3 n . 1 Force c j of the 8 1* Rain Remarks. O 3 CO N Wind. £ CO 3 CO >{Wind. a -c co CO >| Wind. r PQ 2-5 9 7° 8q N NE hi 8l 79 \ NE 7 74 S7 NE J30. 26 8 72 94 Calm [12. 79 87 Calm 771 81 E NE I30. 20 27 S 78 82 E NE [12 82 aJE NE 771 85 E NE 30. 10 23 8 73 9 C E NE I ~ 81 Q4.IN NE 8| 7 o S9 E NE J30. 10 29 8 74 92 N N E m 81I97I NE 8,7a 80, E NE • N. B. The latter fortnight of this month (June) we had frequent heavy mowers of rain, accompanied with much thunder and lightning 5 great variations of temperature, sometimes very oppressively hot, then suddenly changing to cool. Winds prevailed mostly from NNE. and ENE. Thermometer ranged from 72 to 82 in shade. Barometer 30 to 30.2©. D uring th : Month fjuly 1 79' }> at Buyukdere, In Turkey. Jet" Th rmometer, Thermometer, Thermometer, "5 Morning. Noon. Evening. . , Force 1 . . . I Force . . | Force i CO 9 a c B of the | s u -0 c c I of the I-. H ■a C4 c c | of the Rain Remarks. 9 /'j 77 z 2 Wind. {3:; v: CO ■if Wind. 33 .3 CO 3 CO J£ | Wind. I 89 E NE j j *3 90 E NE 7 78 82 E NE 30. IO 2 9 77 82 E NE 1 81 89 E NE 7 71 79 E NE 3c. IO 3 8 73 78 Calm 1 83 88 E NE 8 70 70 Calm 30. IO 4 8 6S 89 E NE 80 82 E NE 8 71 76 E NE 30. I Rain 5 9 7 8' 83 Calm 2 79 81 Calm 8 71 7 3 Calm 30. IO i5 8 72 100 Calm 1 88 95 NE 8 72 7 3 NE 30. 7 7 75 97 Calm *y 87 98 E 8 74 77 E 30. 8 9 Si 92 E NE 2 88 c8 E NE 7 75 ; 78 E NE 30. 9 83 94 E NE 2 87 941E NE 7 77 78 E NE 3°- 10 8 79 94 E 2 87 97 E 7 79 79 E NE 30.11 11 82 9-" E NE 2 86 95 E 7 76 78 E NE 30. 12 8 82 9i E NE 2 88 97 E 8 7 5 78 NE 30. 10 13 Q S3 93 E NE 2 ?9 93 E NE 8 79 75 E NE 3c. J 4 8 82 89 E NE 2 88 97 E NE 8 73 72 Calm 3e. 15 81 88 Calm 2 36 88 NE 8 77 78 NE | 30. 16 8 7 :J 94 E ft 87 94 E 7 77 9i E 1 30.10 17 8 -r> 104 Calm ?. 88 99 E 7 7* 80 E 30. IO Rain 18 8 9 2 90 Calm 2 *7 94 E 7 78 79 E | 30. IO J 9 9 8l 94 E s 89 98 E 7 75 76 E 30. IO 20 8 80 I0 5 SSE 2 95 108 S SE 1 79 8! Calm 29.25 21 f 8d ic 4 N NE 2 ^7 94 N NE 7 70 72 Calm 29. 30 22 9 79 9i NE j 84 90 NE 7 7- 74 NE 29.90 23 8 75 102 Calm 2 84 90 NE 7|7° 74 NE 30. 24 80 95 ;ne " ?^ 93 NE 7,77 7o Calm 30. 5 z 5 2 72 101 Calm 2 9° 109 NE 777 ~9 Calm 30. IO 26 8 ~ ( 102 E NE 2 88 109 E 7 79 8c E 29. 85 27 8 82 90 NE 2 86 95 NE 7 79 8S NE 29.95 28 8 82 93 E 2 86 97 E 776 79 E 30. 6 29 Q 81 ICQ E 2 84 103 E 7 77 "0 E 30. 6 30 8 - 08 E 2 8s 97 E 778 79 Calm 2 9-33 3i 8 87 96 N NE 2 88 95 NN' E 7 7 6 79 iNNE 29. 7 N. B. The first week of this month was oppressively warm. Although we had some cloudy days, with moderate showers of rain on the 4th, the Thermometer ranged from 68 to 88 in shade; and in the sun, from 73 to 9?. Winds moderate, ENE. Barometer 30 to 30.11. The 17th showers of rain. CO STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, Sec. During the Month of August 1799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. Aug. | Ther. Mor. | Therm. Noon. Therm . Even. 1 . . Force . . Force , • • . Force E en £ Is 3 c of the ; 3 rt c C of the 3 TS n . c \ of the p R.ain Remarks. hC Ic/J 8| 7 8 3 CO £ Wind.; x 3 94 •* f* Wind O • a J3 B5 3 t/3 i [Wind. I QzJNNE 2 So N NE 8 74 78 N NE 29. 7 2 8 -2 88 do. 2 80 94 do. 8 72 79 do. 30. 12 3 S 7Q 9i E NE 2 Si 92 E NE t 68 70 E NE 30. 4 8 78 a. E NE 2 80 80 E NE 7 7 2 74 E NE 3°- I 7 N 3* • n 5 O O 7* 98 E NE 2 82 82 E NE 7 73 761E NE 3c. 18 6 8 Si 92 E NE 2 S2 82 E NE 7 75 78] E NE 30.15 7 8 81 94 E NE 2 $2 89 E NE 7 77 78. E NE 30.15 i"* « ** 2 rt 8 8 S2 97 E NE 2 83 84 E NE 7 79 79 1 E NE 30. 7 O M ° 2 -j 9 8 Si 92 E NE 2 87 88 E NE 7 70 78 E NE ;o. 00 K> » 10 8 81 81 Calm 2 8; 100 Calm 7 82 83JWSW 29. 26;clou. re t>» re 31 8 U 101 N NW 2 87 83 Calm 7 76 76iCalm 30. IO do. 12 8 82 98 S SE 2, 86 92 E NE 7 83lS3|Calm 30. s •• s» 13 8 So 109 E NE 2 So 89 E NE 7 81 81 E NE 29. 90 p i; r» i4| 8 80 100 NNE 2 S2 89 E NE 7 80 80 E NE 30. &. 3' 0* *5 8 So 104 NE 2 82 97 NE 7 7i 79 NE 30. giRain 16 8 75 75 NE 4 2 77 94 NE 4 7 76 76 NE 430. \ do. ' y O ft) O O 17 8 7 8 107 NNE 3 2 78 93 NNE 4 7 73 73 NNE 2 30. 10 18 8 8 107 do. 3 2 79 89 do. 3 7 75 75 do. 2 30. 10 O M (^ *9 8 78 107 do. 3 2 7« 87 do. 2 7 76 76 dc. 1 3c. 10 G- -t 20 8 73 113 do. 1 2 75 100 do. 2 7 77 77 do. 1 30. 10 21 8 76 113 Calm 2 83 94 do. 1 7 82 83[Calm 3°- 5 p rt — - 22 8 S2 120 Calm i 35 95 do. 2 7 Si 82'N NE 2 29. 90 to 3 *? 8 85 124 N 1 2 85 119 N * 7 7° 80I N 2 29. 90 5.^ 24 8 So 100 NNE 1 2 81 104 NNE 3 7 r 9 81 N NE 2 29. 96 a ■=; ^5 8 So 100 do. 3 2 79 92 do. 3 7 79 81 do. 3 29. 92 %.? 26 8 So 88 Calm 2 80 9 r do. 1 7 77 78 do. 1 29.92 clou. Em 27 8 7* no N 1 2 8c 105 N 1 7 78 78 N 29. 92 Rain «f 3- 28 8 70 7 C NW 1 2 70 70 N 1 7 TO 70 N 1 30. do. n < • 29 8 70 73 N 1 2 72 79 N 1 7 70 70 N 1 30. IO liO. 3° 8 7. no N 1 2 75 90 N 1 7 72 .72 N 1 30. 15 3 O 3 1 8 75 1 15 Calm 2 75 95 N 1 7 70 72 N 1 3°- 1 5 1 1 During the ] ylonth of Septembei • 1799, at Buyukdere, in Turkey. 1 8 74 114 NNE 1 2 76 89 N 1 6 74 74 NNE 1 30. IC 2 8 75 in do. 1 2 79 109 NNE 5 77 79 do. 30. 8 7". 74 N ; 2 74 82 N 1 5 r- 74 N 2 30. IC Rain Cloudy 4 8 7 a 74 NNE 2 -1 72 74 N 70 7i N 2 30.14 do. do. 5 .1 6 -1 in N 1 2 7° 97 N 1 5 68 7c N 1 30.24 do. 6 8 65 80 N 1 2 71 107 N 1 5 -0 72 N 1 30 a 5 7 8 7° IX 5 N 1 2 n*r 97 N 1 5 6g 70 N 1 30. 9 8 8 7° H N 1 : 7 1 90 N ' 5 67 69 N 1 30.15 9 8 7 C 109 S SE 1 2 71 93 E NE 1 5 -0 7c N 1 30.19 ic 8 70 107 S SW 1 2 74 98 N 1 5 -2 8c N 1 30.16 11 8 70 120 S SW 1 2 75 118 N 1 5 -2 76 N 1 ;o. 6 12 8 73 109 Calm 2 74 112 N 1 5 7 1 79 N 1 30. 6 13 8 7- 124 SE 1 2 75 119 E NE 1 5 / -* 78 E NE 1 30. 16 14 8 /6 Il8 NE 1 2 75 105 NE * 5 "2 7 6 NE ! 30. 3 1^ 8 76 124 E NE 1 2 75 92 NE 1 <; 72 77 NE I 30. 1 16 8 77 117 Calm 2 76 109 NE ' 5 74 82 Calm J 30. ij 17 8 74 104 NE 1 2 75 100 E NE 1 5 71 81 E NE I 30. 5iRain 18 8 72 97 NW 1 2 7i 98 NE 1 5 68 72 NE I 30. 10 do. 19 8 68 92 S SW 5 1 2 60 95 E NE 1 5 67 70 NE I 30. 1 5 20 8 7 1 1? 1 Calm 2 7 r 101 E NE 1 5 70 82 E NE I 30. 17 21 8 74 122 S SW 1 2 76 114 S 1 5 75 107 S J 30. 10 22 8 77 116 Calm 2 75 101 E 5 7 2 75 E 30. 19 2-3 8 "4 ICC N 1 2 "4 102 NE 1 5 •7, 73 NE 2 30.23 24 8 75 ,r 5 NE 1 2 74 IOI NE 2 5 -1 74 E NE 2 30.18 25 8 77 107 NE 2 2 74 98 NE 2 5 73 79 NE I 30.24 26 8 76 97 NNE 1 2 74 97 NNE 2 5 -2 76 NNE 2 30. 30 *7 - 8 77 112 NE 2 2 74 99 N 2 5 " 2 74 N 2 30.27 28 8 75 102 N -^ 2 74 102 N 3 5 72 76 N 3 30.24 29 8 74 113 NE 2 " "3 104 NE 2 5 "2 80 NE 1 30. 10 3 C 8 73 73 SE 1 - 74 109 SE 1 5 72 102 NE 7 29.95 Foggy STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. During the Month of O&ober 1799, at B-uyukdere, in Turkey. o> ^ 3 u -1 c — " e Fore of tht 5 . c T3 Force of the u c Force 5 g ofthe | £ Rain Remarks. a 1 8 5: 70 3 £ Wind c • x j3 •v. 3 CO I06 '^ Wind. PC <" 3 £ Wind.] {a 1 119 s sw 1 2 75 SW 1 5 74 76 SW i?29. 90 1J30. 10 2 8 "4 ri8 s sw 2 2 76 IOO s sw 2 ! 75 80 s sw Rain 3 8 72 124 s sw 3 ~ 81 110 s sw 3 80 85 s sw 1I30. 4 8 68 6? N 1 2 e 5 fc 9 N 3 5 65 67 N 1,30. 20 Rain 5 S 7i 106 NNE 1 2 7c 92 NNE 1 5 69 79 N 1 i3?« 5 do. 6 8 70 9 8 S 2 ,2 65 69 s sw 5 62 65 s sw 1 ( 2 9 . 8c, do. 7 8 60 65 SW 1 2 59 60 N 1 5 55 59 E NE 30. 1 do. 8 S 62 102 WNW 1 2 60 60 WNW 1 5 56 59 s 1 130. 5 do. 9 8 59 62 WSW 1 2 60 60 WSW 1 5 59 59 WSW 130. do. 10 8 59 61 Calm 2 65 69 N 1 5 64 65 N 1 30. 30 do. Ji 8 6s "5 WSW 1 2 69 103 N 1 5 68 7" N , j3°- 3" 3o.35 12 8 68 73 N T 2 68 109 N S 60 08 N 13 8 68 101 E NE T *> 64 67 NE 3 60 60 NE 3 '30. 24 [30.13 ■3°- 7 do. 14 8 54 59 Calm 2 66 68 NE 1 5 59 NE 1 do. J 5 8 57 60 WSW I 2 59 67 WSW 1 5 58 6 5 N 3 do. 16 8 54 54 WSW I 2 57 59 NE 1 ; 5° 57 NW SO- do. '7 8 60 84 WSW I 2 65 97 WSW 1 5 54 68 N So. 5 18 8 67 87 NE I 2 64 90 E NE 1 5 02 7° E NE 1 30.21 19 20 21 8 T- 94 s 2 2 74 84 s ,.sw 3 5 71 84 s SW 30. 7 22 23 24 2 5 2 63 74 Calm 26 2 73 92 S 27 2 70 08 J Calm 28 2 67 71 NE , During the Month of November 1799, m t ^ le Dardanelles, at Chennccally in Asia. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 *5 26 27 28 ?9 30 8 70 Sc E NE 1 2 70 70 E NE i 5 68 68 E NE 1 30. 20 Cloudy 8 66 89 E NE 1 2 68 8q E NE 1 s 6j 68 E NE 1 30. 1 8 64 85 E NE i 2 68 86 E NE 1 e 65 70 E NE j 39. 90 8 63 79 Calm 2 66 86 E NE 5 62 67 E NE ! 29. 9S 8 62 70 N 1 2 65 70 N 1 5 65 65 N I 29. 90 8 62 So NE 1 2 66 92 NE n 5 64 *5 NE li 1 30. 8 66 73 S SW 3 2 71 74 s SW 3 7' 71 S SW 3 30. Cloudy 8 s« 56 E 1 2 5S 77 E 2 5 56 57 E 1 30. 8 Rain 8 45 47 E SE 1 2 5' 60 Calm 1 5 5° 5 2 E SE I 30. 18 do. 8|4! 57 E SE 1 2 55 78 NNE i 5 5° 5 5 NNE 1 30.15 8 5' 6 9 E SE 1 2 ^0 80 E SE 1 5 5°'55 ES E J 30. 30 8 5° 53 N NE 2 2 56 80 NNE 2 5 54 55 NNE ' 2 30. 36 do. 8 54 54 do. 2 2 54 <4 E NE 2 5 54 54 E NE 2 30.36 8 54 54 E SE ) 2 53 53 E SE ■ 5 5 2 52 E SE ; i 30.2c 8 53 53 E SE 1 2 57 84 NNE 1 5 58 58 NNE 1 30. 10 8 52 65 E NE 1 2 58 88 N 1 5 54 54 N 1 30. 10 8 45 4 r NNE 2 56 56 NNE j 5 54 54 NNE 1 30. 10 do. 8 4 s 48 do. 2 2 45 45 do. 2 5 15 45 do. 30. do. 8 45 45 do. -1 2 49 55 do, i 5 48 ,s do. ' 30. 1 do. 8 45 4S do. 2 2 46 4« do. 2 5 46^6 do. 2 30.18 do. 843 45 do. a 2 46 6c do. 5 45 45 do. 2 30.3c O A2 4" do. 1 2 4" 73 do. i 54046 548148 do. 1 30.30 8 43 6s do. 1 2 48 48 do. 1 do. 1 30.38 8 43 53 SW 1 2 55 75 SW ) 5 5460 SW 1 30.32 s 38 56 N 1 ? S^ 73 N ! 5 5° 5° N J 30.44 8 44 44 N| 2 1 *» 5 Ci 75 N 2 5:4848 N i 3°-45 8 35 55 N 11 2 5 2 9 1 N 1 s l 1 3- N ! i 3c. 36 Cloudy STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. During the Month of Decemoer 1799, at Galata, in Turkey. Dec. j Ther. Mor. | Therm. Noon. \ Therm. Even. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Jo si 12 *3 14 i"5 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 2 3 24 25 26 27 28 29 3° -;i As 21-S 842' 8.55 S <;? 8|66 s|6o 861 Sj59 852 8j 5 o 851 8j 5 8 8| 4 6 8| 4 2 8| 4 i 8156 8;4S 8,44 8J46 " 53 56 59 55 54 53 54 56 5< 54 . I Force ! . c j or the 8 3 £] Wind.jE OJ ~r: -c c fH 3 cn /: ! Force of the Wind. 8! 4 o! 61 55 57 66 60 61 9 5 2 5° 5 1 58 46 42 41 56 4-5 44 46 53 56 59 55 54 S3 54 5& 55 54 54 S 1 .40 N SW sw SW sw sw sw NE NE NE NE NE NE s SW sw sw sw sw sw sw wsw NE NNE NE SE S SW S SW E NE 'N'NW WNWj N ! T< 55 61 62 65 63 64 66 58 5 3 56 5° 5° 44 4 2 5 46 45 49 56 59 60 56 55 54 55 56 54 5" 5 5 49 4° S SW S sw sw sw sw sw NE NE NE NE NE NE NE SW SW SW SW SW sw sw wsw NE NNE NE NE s sw N NE 57'E NE 55IN NW 49, WNW 40I N 55 68 62 65 53 64 66 58 53 56 5° 5° 44 4 2 5 S 4.6 45 49 56 59 60 ;6 55 54 55 36 54 T 55 54 56 61 59 57 55 56 S 2 54 49 4.6 43 42 57 47 44 5° S5 5§ 61 5 5 54 54 54 67 54 57 54 47 Force of the Wind. 5 39 55 54 5* 61 59 57 55 56 5- 54 49 46 4 3 42 57 47 4 4 5° 5 5 58 61 5 5 54 <4 54 67 54 5 54 47 59 s sw s sw sw sw sw sw s sw NE NE NE NE NE NE ! SW SW SW SW SW SW SE WSW NE NNE NE NE S SW NNE E NE NNW WNW N S o « 30. 29. 30. O. 29. 329. 29. 29. 30, 30. 3°' 29 2Q, 29 29 Rain 74 5 2 77 94 3 20 20 95 9 1 9 5 58 66 80 Remarks. Cloudy do. do. do. fnow do. Durin g the Month of January 1800, at Gal ita in T urkey I 8 16 I 1 2 22 N 1 5 22 N 1 30.56 fnow 2 8 15 N [ 2 ■o N 1 5 V N ] 30.50 3 4 8 35 " WSW 2 2 39 WSW 1 5 40 WSW 1 30.10 8 44 WSW 1 i 2 46 wsw j 5 47 NNE 1 30- 7 q 8 4° N NE J 2 44 N NE 1 5 45 do. 30. 10 6 • 4-- NNW I 45 NNW 1 5 54 NNW 30.19 7 8 46 E NE I 2 54 E NE 1 5 55 E NE 29. 98 8 8 4 C N NE I 2 4! NNE 1 5 4i NNE 30. 10 Rain 9 8 4 2 N I 2 4-3 N 1 5 4 2 N 30. 10 do. IC 8 45 W N * j 2 2 44 WNW 1 5 45 WNW 30. 4 do. 31 8 NW 2 2 42 NE 2 5 4- NE 30. 7 22 * 40 N NE 2 2 ■r- NNE 2 5 47 N NE 3°- ?3 8 4- N NE I 244 do. 1 5 43 do. 30. 7 *4 8 46 S SE I 2 5° S SE ! 5 5° S SE 29.95 ?5 16 8 51 NNW 2 2 5- E NE I 5 5-' E NE 29.67 Rain 8 5 2 INW 2 2 5° WNW 2 5 48 WNW 29.78 do. ^7 8 43 N I 2 4 5 N I 5 45 N 29.82 do. 18 8 4 : N 1 2 42 N I 1 43 N 29.92 3 9 8 46 N I 2 49 N I 5 47 N 29.92 20 8 49 E NE I 2 56 E NE I 5 54 N 29. 80 21 849 849 Calm 2, 5" Calm 5 54 Calm 29.98 ' 22 NNE I 2 57 E NE I 5 54 E NE 30. 2 -3 8I52 E NE i 1 2 59 E NE J 5 53 E NE 3°- 2 4 8 |53 SW I 2 59 SW I' 5 57 SW 29.90 25 848 NNW i 2 2 5° NNW 5 48 Calm 29.97 Rain 26 8)46 Calm 2 48 dr>. 2 5 45 E NE 3°- 27 8!4i N NE 1 1 42 E NE I 5 4 1 E NE 30. 10 do. c8 8J41 do. ij 2 42 N NE f 5 44 N NE [30. 16 20 8I42 WSW i| 2 45 V/SW I 5 4 5 WSW 30. 3 C i 4 C Calm 1 z 44 NNE I 5 4 3 N NE |3°- 5 3 1 I 4 C ICalm i 2 J 5 E NE I -5 I50 E NE I30. iS STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, Sec. During the Month of February 1800, at Galata, in Turkey. Feb. | Then Mor. | Therm. Noon. | Therm. Even. . • Force • . . . 1 Force t ■ • Force E G I I* 840 a a a of the J 3 Wind. <£ c 3 ■si B j of the SlWind. 5 CO 3 so c j of the. £ jWind. R.ain Remarks. 1 ~~ E NE I 2 — 53 E NE I 45 E NE 30. 10 2 1 8 45 Calm 2 s3 Calm 5 5* Calm 3°- 3 Rain 3 do. 2 44 E NE 1 5 42 E NE 30. 22 4 842 8! 4 o b 4.1 NNE 2 2 43 N NE 1 5 4 2 NNE 30. 16 do. 5 6 N NE 2 2 47 E SE 5 41 E SE 30. 6 WNW 2 -2 1-5 WNW 2 5 42 WNW ■ 30. 6 7 s 35 Calm 2 |6 do. T 5 4 1 do. 30. 10 S 844 do. 2 M do. 5 t7 do. 30. 10 9 844 N 2 2 1-3 N I 5 -]i N T 30. 15 Rain 10 840 N I 2 44 N 2 5 4 5 N ! 30. Io ( do. j 1 8'35 8 35 s 37 E NE 2 2 -i c E NE 2 5 3/ E NE 2 30.26 do. 12 NNE 2 2 4 1 NNE 1 5 39 NNE I 30.16 do. 1 3 E NE 2 2 4- E NE 1 5 4 1 E NE 1J30. 10 14 S46 £ NE 3 2 | 55 WSW 2 5 5 : WSW IJ30. do. 15 s :9 E NE 2 2 43 E NE 2 5 39 E NE Iho.311 16 8 39 E NE 2 2 46 E NE 2 5 4 1 E NE iho. 14 T 7 837 E NE 1 2 44 E NE 5 _2 E NE 1 29. 30 18 8 39 Calm 2 42 WSW 1 5 40 WSW I29. 97 19 839 WSW 2 41 WSW 5, 37 WSW [30. 8 20 8 36 E NE 2 42 E NE 5 4< ENE 30. 10 21 8 39 N 2 2 45 N 2 5 41 N 1I30. 10 22 836 Calm 2 47 S 2 5 43 S 1*30. 16 23 24 8 37 do. 5° N 1 5 4 ' N 1S29. 97 842 do. 2 49 WSW 2 5 5 2 WSW §29. 60 Rain 2 5 8 -50 WSW 2 2 45 WSW 2 5 43 do. 2529. 74 do. 26 8 40 E NE 2 2 39 N 2 5 5 5 N 2J29. 44 snow 27 828 N 3 2 31 N 2 5 3> N 1 29. 90 do. 2S S33 WSW V 3 5 N 2 5 35 N 1 3°« do. During the Month of March 1800, at Galata, in Turkey. 1 8I36 Calm 2 4 5 WSW 1 1 5 46 Calm J29.90 Ram 2 840 WSW 1 2 45 E NE j 1 5 4 5 E NE 1 29.87 do. 3 848 N 1 2 55 WSW J 2 5 49 WSW F9-53 do. 4 839 Calm 2 47 do. I 1 5 43 do. 1 29.93 Cloudy 5 846 WSW 1 256 do. 1 5 56 do. 1S29. 64 Faii- 6 8 50 WSW 2 2 c: do. 1 5 47 N 1 29.73 do. 7 844 WSW 1 2 5' E NE 2 5 49 E NE r 30. do. 8 845 Calm 2 57 WSW 1 5 55 WSW 1 Calm 1 29.70 do. 9 848 WSW 1 2 59 Calm 5 5 2 29.70 do. 10 842 Calm 2 40 E NE 1 5 4~ E NE 1I29. 94 do. 11 841 do. 2 4- do. 2 5 40 do. 1 30. Rain do. 12 837 E NE 1 2 44 do. 2 5 41 NNE 1J30. do. *3 8 30 N NE V- NNE 2 5 30 do. 2 29. 80 24 831 N NW 2j 24° N NW 2 5 34 N NW 2 29. 90 Fair 15 8 33 do. 2 J 2 40 do. 2 e 38| WSW 2 29.94 do. 16 844 S 48 S 2 5 37 E NE 2 30. do. 17 8 38 N NW 2 2 40 N NW 2 5 36 do. 2 30. 20 do. 18 834 E NE V 4* E NE 2 5 36 do. 2 30. j do. J 9 836 N V 2 41 N -. 5 J« do. T 29.80 do. 20 83S NNW I 244 N NW 1 5 42 N NW I 29. So'Fair ai 845 Calm 3 5' E NE 1 5 (9 E NE I 29. 80 do. 22 842 do. j 44 do. 2 5 4c do. I 29.94! do. 23 830 E NE 2. 5 ■4< do. ' 5 42 do. " 30. IFair 24 8 37 E NE 2; 2 4C > do. 2 t 38 do. 2 29. 83 Rain 25 8 33 N ! 3; 2|34 r- do. « 3c do. a'-.o. 2 Snow 26 831 N NW, * *3< 1 do. ! 1 J 2 do. 1 30. 16 Cloudy 27 83' Calm 2 2|4< do. ; ' >3* do. ■ 30. Fair 28 8 3' F N I 2J4: ; do. ;4<: ) do. 30. da. 29 84- N 1 1 24- 7 N >4< ) N 2 JO. IC Fair 3° 84 Calm 24 E NE 1 : . ;|j. ) E NE 2)30. IC do. V 83! \ E NE a] * i |E NE } ( 4' > If. x e » J30. « do. (*>) STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, BAROMETER, &c. During the Month of April 1800, at Galata, in Turkey. Apr. Ther. Mor. | Therm. Noon. [ Therm. Even. | -a a c -= => c/", k/5 . I Force I . c J ot the I 3 fe I Wind. !;£ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 T 12 1* 14 15 171 iS J 9| 20 21 22 23 24 *5 26 27 28 29 30 840 ?| 4 2 84I 8I4I 841 8U.2 844 84s 8J5S 8154 8I58 3|44 847 852 84S 8|47 5 44 ?i 4 6 5 2 5 5 C 49 o 3 49 5S 8 61 8|53 E NE E NE Calm do. d... E NE do. QO. do. Calm do. do. do. E NE do. do. Calm do. E NE Calm do. do. do. E NE do. Calm do. do. E NE do. 2 |44 2 45 25c 2 |45 5« 45 5° 46 5 2 5* 6c 68 6* 55 55 68 66 60 67 65 65 63 54 I Force I of the .Wind. E NE do. N E NE do. do. do. do. do. do. Calm WSW E NE do. do. do. WNW E NE do do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do, do. do. Force of the Wind. E o Rain Remarks. 2.1 4i 42 44 S|43 4' 44 M 43 43 5 5 5*7 49 47 5° 47 5* 49 5 2 5 2 5S 5 5 2 58 5 2 5 2 60 62 ^3 5' E NE E NE N E NE do. do. do. do. do. do. Calm WSW E NE do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. 90 14 14 J 329 1 he, 2I30. 1 30, -29.94 3J29.90 1I30. 12 2,30.20 30.20 30. ic ,30- 2*29.90 1S30. 10 1130. 26 3 30.46 3c. 30. 30.20 3 30. 15 30. 30 30. v>< [30. 2S30. 1 30, 2«3C 3J29 3 29.94 29.94 9.94 During part of the Month of June iSoo, taken on board the New Adventure Tranfpoit, V If 8 72 SE 0, 84 Calm 6 74 Calm 16 8 72 NE 2 82 NE 6 72 NE 3-7 8 72 E NE 2 78 E NE 6 7 S E NE IS 8 72 do. 2 78 E NE 6 75 E NE IP i 7S NE ^ 79 NE c 75 NE 20 68 NW 2 60 NW 6 67 NW 1 21 8 69 NE a 7 .6 NE 6 6c- NE 22 8 71 NW 2 75 NW 6 70 NW Z1 8 77 NW 3 7 s NW 6 70 NW 24 7 5' W 2. 83 W 6 7 ', W ^5 8 8-> SE -1 82 SWW 6 ?c Calm r 26 8 79 NW 2 83 sw 6 74 SW 27 8 73 Calm ; 2 83 Calm 1 6 78 Cairn 2S 8 79 Calm 2 84 do. 6 78 Calm 29 8 8? 6 2 8, sw 6 78 SW 3° 8 7? SE ji 80 ss ;-. 79 SW STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, kc. During the Month of July 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. July J Ther. Mor. | Therm. N' on. \ Therm. EvenT" H 2 « I o OS a en Force I of the Wind. I 8 80 2! 8 80 1 8 82 4 6 5o 1 8 80 f 8 80 7 8 8 a ? 8 86 «! 8 86 10 8 86 11 8 So 12 88< 1- 88, *4 88 S is 8 84 16 8 2, i- 8 84 18 8 8s if; i 86 20 8 86 21 8 S 4 2 2 8 *s 23 8 84 »4 8 8 S 2S s 8j 1.6 8 84 27 8 84 28 8 84 29 8 84 30 8 84 31! 8 8 S sw do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. SE SW SW s NWN NW NNW SE SW SW S S Calm NW S Force of the Wind. S6 87 88 84 ?4 S c 94 C2 92 92 94 93 94 94 94 94 93 92 94 04 92 93 9 1 9i 9? 91 91 92 92 91 SW do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. SE SW do. S NWN NW NWN SE SW SW s NW NW NW NW Force I of the [Rain Wind. Remarks. '5 «4 84 S5 '5 84 82 86 86 8 4 84 84 84 85 85 SW do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. S NWN NW NNW SE SW SW NW Calm Calm NW NW During th ; Month of A ugust 1800, at. Jaff; i, in Syria. I 3|8 5 S | | 2 83 NW I 6 85 NW 2 S8 S S 2 92 do. 6 *5 S 3 =!8 S S 2 9- do. 6 S + SWS 4 8 8 4 S 2 93 SW 6 84 Calm 5 S84 S 2 92 do. 6 So do. 6 884 NW 2 92 NW 6 8S do. 7 885 s 2 92 do. 6 ^5 NW 8 885 Calm 2 9 2 do. 6 *5 do. 9 885 do. 2 Q2 do. 6 8S do. 10 885 do. 2 Q2 do. 6 85 do. 11 885 do. 2 90 do. 6 82 do. 12 8 86 do. 2 93 do. 6 86 Calm *3 8 86 do. 2 92 do. 6 3S NW '4 8 88 NW 2 9 2 do. 6 86 do. M 8 88 NW 2 90 do. 6 84 do. 16 885 NW 2 9 1 do. 6 *5 do. 17 885 Calm 2 90 do. 6 85 do. 18 8 8c; s 2 90 do. 6 84 do. *9 8S3 Calm 2 90 do. 6 84 do. 20 884 do. 2 90 do. 6 84 do. 21 881 s 2 90 do. 6182 do. 22 884 S 2 93 do. 685 Calm -3 882 Calm 2 90 WSW 682 WSW Before sun-rise 68. 24 884 WSW 2 92 WSW 6 S 4 WSW *s 884 SW 2 90 NW 6 84 NW During night 63. 26 885 SW 2 9 3 NW 6 8s NW 27 S Sc; NW 2 93 NW 6 »5 Calm 28 S85 SW 2 90 SW 6 s< NW 29 885 Calm 2I92 NW 6 S5 NW 30 8 86 S 2I92 SW 6 8 5 SW 3*1 8 86 SW 2 .93 SW 6 86 SW STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. During the Montn of September 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. Sept. I Ther. Mor. | Ther. Noon, j i herm. Even, j -G 3 'in . 1 Force 1 . ■o * 1 Ik. e I of the I a £ j Wind. \x S s N N N NW Calm do. do. do. do. NvV S Calm W S W W Calm do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. Force 1 . of the j 3 __., , 1 o VVinJ. (ic 92 90 90 90 92 93 93 93 9 2 93 94 9 2 93 90 S3 88 7 87 86 86 86 ^7 85 83 5 5 «5 8S 5 S3 S S N N W NW NW NW W NW NW NW NW NW W s w w w w w w w NW NW W NW NW NW NW . ,' Force "a j of the ;S I Wind. 86 So 80 So Sz 86 86 86 86 85 64 84 84 So S2 82 80 80 So o 80 80 6[8o 680 678 6J76 6:78 679 6,8o 678 S s N N W NW NW NW SW S NW NW NW NW W s w w NW NW NW Calm Calm NW NW NW NW NW NW NW Rain Remarks. 5' c est a Foggy in the morning, do. and do. do. and do. ►O Q. n a. 3 00 Cloudy & do. £P _, Cloudy in the morning. M 3- o -. "• 3 £l3 o o r> a 3 3> 3 " C. 3 3 O. «* {V 5" c During the Month of October 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. 1 8 70 Calm 282 NW 1 6 |77 NW 2 8 70 Calm 2 82 1 1 >. 6 77 do. 3 8 70 Calm 2 83 do. 6 76 do. , 4 8 7Q Calm 2 3 4 do. 6 79 do. 5 8 74 Calm 2 S3 do. 6 7 6 do. I I > 6 3 71 Calm 2 8l do. 6 75 do. * ■ r* 7 8 70 Calm 2 83 do. 6 75 do. O O 8 8 70 S 2 82 do. 6 76 do. 1 1 9 8 7 3 s 2 33 do. 6 76 do. 5" 10 8 "5 Calm 2 86 do. 6 7S do. £* 11 8 75 70 SE 2 34 do. 6 77 do. 1 1 > 12 S Calm 2 84 N 6 80 N Cloudy with 1 { g 3 3 8 70 NW 2 S4 NW 6 74 NW fresh br;cze; *-* "4 8 70 Calm 2 84 NW 6 74 do. at noon. H 15 8 6 c Calm 2 35 WNW 6 77 Calm 1 I 1 * 16 8 66 E 2 82 wsw 6 77 Calm 3 J 7 8 ! 72 Calm 2 80 WNW 6 76 NW CO 18 8168 E NE 2 80 do. 6 73 Calm I II 19 20 872 NW 2 3i NNW 6 72 NW ■ • 865 N 2 80 do. 6 77 NNW 21 8;6 7 Calm 2 80 do. 675 WNW tr> o\ ci rr rr r» 22 8:69 866 E NE 2 78 do. 671 do. Rain Cloudy 23 S 2 77 NW 5 7i NW do. 3-3-3- l» rt It 24 2 5 26 862 NE 2 So do. 6 75 do. 00- > rt r. «* 864 864 Calm 2 ss do. 6 3o NNW Oppressive £T* P ^ Calm 2|84 do. 6 75 NW heat. Blew 3 3 3 U> US ** 27 869 Calm 2182 do. e 75 do. strong. »-r n ^ f 28 8166 Calm 2*80 do. 6 7i do. 29 8 168 S 279 do. 6I75 do. 30 8;6o Calm 28l do. do. 3i 8 !6z Calm 2 .82 do. 1 e I70 do. Cloudy STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. D iring the Month of November 1800, a'. Jaffa, in Syria. Njv. I Ther. M r. j Therm j Force P 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 it 12 *3 »4 15 16 17 i8 19 20 zi 22 2 3 •24 2 5 26 27 28 29 30 of the Wind. 33 62 52 62 59 ; " 6 j S'66 65 8; 5 8 8 -8 •58 54 .1 6* 8| 5 8 860 si 60 8I64 8 6 8:60 8 60 8 U6 860 Calm do. o. do. do. E SE SE NW W SE SW Galm do. do. do. SE SE SE Calm W SE SE SW SE SE NW E E N E I 2 2 2 2 1. N oon 1 1 jFo rre 1 -0 , E l £ c ! Oi the ! — t/J £ jvv nd. >I :cm. Even. 77 77 78 78 zh6 275 2174 2 W5 2 |75 276 66 67 68 SHI 2 2 2 2 63 2 2 2 2 7O! 7* 6 9, NW do. do. d>. do. do. do. do. do. do. W NW do. do. do. WSW SW SE w w s SW S NE SE NE E E E SW 6j 74 6,7 2 6J.7C 6|7i 6; 7 1 6 70 6J70 608 6168 6|66 6!f>8 Force :.''■- of the 2 ' Wind. Rain 6 7c 6 70 6 68 6)65 6^ 60 6 6 e 6 6 6 6 6 6 6'6 5 NW do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. SW w w s s s SE NE SE NE NE E NW Rain Rain Rain do Rain do Remarks. Cloudy Showers and thun- der during night. Cloudy during nigh': Cloudy Cloud v with thunder do. Fine blows strong blows gales, and in the night heavy rains Cloudy blows hard Cloudy and rain During the Month of December 1800, at Jaffa, in Syria. I 8 5° 2 *S< 3 8 4-9 -1 8 60 5 8 53 6 8 61 / 8 S3 8 8 55 9 8 59 10 8 ss i ! 863 I -' 8 54 «3 8 53 ■ -} 8 (-•<; 1 - 8 6s 16 :: 65 17 8 S» 18 8 5« 19 '■; 59 20 8 54 21 8 55 22 8 S6 *1 8 62 -4 8 5* »5 8 54 al 8 49 * / s 54 at ' 49 "- 1 8 49 3- 8 50 P i 60 SE Calm Calm SE Calm Calm E Calm do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. E SE do. W E SE SW S SE NW W E NW SW Calm SE S NW 2 70 273 270 2|6o 2I70 2J73 270 2J72 2172 2j73 2 73 *7i 2 |75 2 72 272 2 2 2 2 i 2 68 62 62 6 65 «4 2J63 2I60 I 2|6?. \ 2|6o 2]6o 266 268 265 2|6 5 | ( c ) SE N W NW do. do. N NW NW Calm NW do. do. do. W NW SW do. s w NW SW do. NW do. Calm NW do. do. s S NW 65 65 65 l 3 66 65 68 65 68 63 6 5, 65 68' 6 6 6 6 6 6 f 6 6 6 ^ 3 6J65 660 Co 60 61 61 62 6i 57 54 5S 5' 56 60 6<6o 661 SE NE NW do. do. W Calm do. do. NW do. do. E SE W NW SE SW SW W NW SW W NW NW Calm NE NW E SW S NE Rj Cloudy Cloudy hazy, thunder Stoimy, thunder and lightning Stormy Rain Heavy rains, and do. gales of wind do. ■ do. do. Rain Thunder, Sc: STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. C m - an 1 y ' 801, ut ^aria , in Syria. Jan. V i-er, Mor. | "inarm. Jjiooa. | Therm. Even'. | p X 'a -- -a e .2 1 Force j; . of the '• = Wind. '3 .0 . i Force 1 . c S of the \ i ^ ! Wind, ffi -C 1 3 > Force j of the !R.ain Wind. Remarks. I 8 ,49 :,u \ ;6" W 6 ho Calm 2 846 E - 68 NW 6 60 NE 3 O O 46 SE 2 68 SW 6 52 Calm Rain Cloudy 4 O 5? S 2 5 8 do. 6 58 sw do. Stormy and rain 5 8 56 SW 2 58 do. 6 55 E do. do. 6 8 5 2 sw 2 56 S .'. 55 SW do. Showery 7 8 S3 s 2 s? s 6 55 E 00. moderate 8 85a s 2 60 NW 6 57 NE Fine 9 8L7 E 2 62 W 660 Calm 10 8,49 SE 2 62 NW 6 6c NW do. ii 8| 52 Calm a 62 E 6 i.r: Calm 12 8| S o E 2 65 NW 6 60 NW do. J 3 8 S o E ?. 64 do. 6 60 do. do. H «5* SE 2 63 SW fj 59 do. Rain Cloudy ^5 854 SE 2 62 do. 6 59 w Stormy 16 855 S 62 NW 6 60 w Cloudy 17 ^'54 SE 2 64 do. 6jfc2 Calm 18 8| 55 SW 2 60 S 655 W Rain Thunder and light. 19 8 55 do. 2 5 ' sw 6 <5 SW do. Stormy 20 S55 do. 2 6 do. 6 55 w do. .21 8|c2 E 2 61 NW 6 5 6 NW Rain 22 8 52 SW 2 ;8 SW 6 57 SW do. do. 23 Sl 5 A E 2 A 3 NW 6 60 NW Cloudy 24 8 55 E 2 64 do. ■ : . 63 lo. Fine ~5 8 55 E 2 63 do. 6 62 do. 26 54 E #5 do. 6 61 do. 27 8 57 S 2:67 do. 6 65 w Rain Stormy during night 28 8 6c W 2 ! 6- SW 6 ><5 SW do. Stormy, thunder 29J SJ56 W : 61 £ ,5 NW do. lightning and hail 30 8 51 sw ; 2 56 SW e 55 sw do. Showery 5' 8 54 do. 261 do. 6 ■ 6J62 W i Gale, with rain du - 4 6160 WNW ~ Rain ring night. 2 6,62 N • Cloudy 1 6U5 N Fine 1 662 NE 1 do. 1 662 NE 1 3* r. ',1 W i Cloud" in the morn- 1 i ing STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. During the Month of March 1801, in Syria, and in the Desert. Mar. | Ther. Mor. 1 Therm. Noon. 1 Therm Even. 1 1 . ' . • E F01 ce 1 . • 1 Force . • | F01 ■ce 1 a, 1 1; rt i O — C 3 en B 1 of, the =J J Wind. jS OJ 55 c 3 en 1 J of the £ ! Wind. 1 c 3 e | of the {Rain 5 Wind. Remarks. I "8 58 SE 2 2 68 SW 2 6 58 SW 2 1 Rain 1 Temped nearYebna. o S 56 sw 2 2 62 do. 2 6 58 do. 2 do. 3 i 55 do. 4 2 ss W 4 6 56 do. 2 do. Heavy do. with hail 4 2 S a S 3 2 57 SW ■i 6 5* W 1 do. do. and do. «i 8 S^ s 3 2 5° do. A 6 56 W 1 Fine (hail, rain a.m. 6 8 52 sw ••- 2 2 64 do. 3 6 60 Calm do. (cloudy A. M.) •J 8 53 do. 2 68 do. 3 6 62 Calm Clew 8 8 j^ s 1 2 08 do. 2 6 63 SW 1 do. 9 8 57 sw 1 2 63 do. 1 6 5 6 W 3 Rain IO 8 56 SE 2 2!67| W 2 6 57 do. 2 Cloudy ii 8 56 do. 1 2|65 SW 1 6 57 SW ijRain 12 8 56 SW 3 2:62 do. 3 6 65 do. 2 1 do. hea. rain near Ezdod J 3 8 56 S 2 2!62 do. 2 6 59 do. do. Cloudy (rain A.M.) *4 S 5° SE ; 264 NW 1 6 59 NW 1 do. do. (rain at noon) *5 Ol d k2 do. 2 2 60 do. 2 6 62 NE 3 do. Rain P.M. at Gaza 16 »IS9 NE 3 2 3 5 NE 3 6 57 do. 3, Clear *7 §54 SE 1 2 6q NW 2 6 s9 l do. 1 do. iS %3 NE 265 do. 1 6 61 N 1 do. *9 8 57 S 1 217O do. 1 6 65 NE 1 do. (fog A.M.) 20 8 60 SW 2 2 72 do. 1 6 64 NW 1 Great fog P. M. 21 8 64 s I 2 72 W 2 6 04 do. 2 Cloudy (fog A.M.; 22 8 6. Calm 2 72 do. 2 6 64 do. I do. 3 3 8 5? SE I 2 77 do. 2 6 64 do. * do. *4 8 62 SW ^ 2 62 SW 1 6 59 SE 1 2 Rain Thunder and lightn. 3 5 SO E 2 2 64 NW 2 6 62 NW i 1 do. and hail thro' day Bo E I 2- 66 w 3 6 63 N | z< do. Cloudy 27 Q 60 Calm 2 69 SW 3 6 6S SW do. do. 28 s - SW 2 2 7s W 2 6 68 NW do. I; Clear at Kanyouns 29 8 60 E f 2 75 sw 2: 6 70 do. (in the Desert) 30 8 62 SE I 2 76 NW 2 6|6 5 do. ij do. (fogatEl-arish) •;i 8 5 5 SE I 2 8c do. 2* 6I70I do. ' 2^ do. (cloudy A. M.) • During tr e Month of April ] Soi, in the Desert and in Egypt. 1 8 65 SW 1 2 80 W 2 6,70 668 N jICloudyP.M. atEl-Arish 23 Rain, Thunder, &c- 8 66 w 2 2 78 NW 2 NW i 8 60 sw 3 2 60 sw 4 661 W 2 Cloud v (rain & hail AM) 4 8 55 do. 4 2 60 do. 4 657 sw 4 do." 5 8 55 do. 3 2 69 W 3 6'6o w 2 do. 6 8 57 W 2 2 71 do. 2 6'6z NW 1 do. (clear A. M.) 7 8 62 NW 1 2 75 N > 6 04 N Clear 8 8 <■■ E NE 1 72 NE 1 669 N I Oppreff, wea. (a Kamp- ■ ? "-- SW 4 2 90 sw 2 682 Calm Clear (sin win4) : 8 »5 W 2 2 75 NW 2 6;68 6!70 NW 2 Clear . 1 8 65 NW 1 2 74 do. 2 N 2 Cloudy (clear A.M.) i 2 8 70 d;). J 2 7S N 2 6J69 6 ; 7o 6 70 NW 2 Clear 13 s 70 NE j ** ^ 74 N - NE 2 do. M 8 07 N T » 70 N 2 NWN . do. •'•' 8 68 E I 2 7^ N 2 6|7° N I do. 16 8 65 N I 2 79 N 1 669 N ] do. 1? 8 69 N I 2 80 N 1 670 NW 2 do. 18 8 68 WSW 2 2 78 NW 3 6'6 9 do. 2 Cloudy '? 8 67 SW 1 2 8 2 W 2 670 W J Clear (it Messoudich) 20 8 69 w 2 2 71 N 2 6 6q N do. n 8 68 sw 1 2 88 W — 6 68 W do. (a! Eiibilhibbs,) - 2 8 66 do. 2 2 92 W 2 yc NW 5 do. (.it Catieh) '■I 8 74 jL-» I 2 98 NE 2 6 7S NE q do. -- ; 74 E 2 2 9c NE 2 6 70 N T F. 1 1. -•. 8 70 E 2 2 92 N'W 2 671 NE , d:>. 26 8 7 2 E 2 2 95 NE 1 2 678 E 3 do. .- *] ' : 76 E SE 3 2 E SE 3 6 80 NE 1 . Cloudy (at Salahieh in 2,8 8 78 NE 2 1 '■' N 3 07T N \ 3 j Clear (Egyiit.) :-u :: 68 W 2 2 36 W J 2 6j8z NW \ *>■ ! 2J do. 8 69 NW 2 : no 1 N-W| 2 670 1 1 do. State of thermometer, winds, rain, & c . Daring the Month of May iSci, in Egypt. M« 7 The''. Mor. | Ther. Noon. | fherm. Even. | . > Force 1 . . I Force . .. | . j Force en rt D a 8 u D rt .x: en 69 c a 05 -0 a > K r I I- or the 1 d Wind. |j -O w 5/3 c 3 C/3 a 1 of the SjjWind. a -a CO J5 'XI c j of the £ ! Wind. Remarks. i W 2 86 NW 2 6 74 NE N * olear 2 8 75 E 1 2 9 S E 1 6 80 NE 3 do. 3 S 70 NE 2 2 9 8 NE 3 6 90 NE 3 Cloudy and hazy 4 8 80 W 3 2 98 ■ W 3 6 85 NW 2 Clear s 8 "3 do. 2 2 02 NW z 6 75 N 3 Cloudy and hazy f 8 70 do. 2 2 88 WSW 2 6 75 W 1 Clear 8 70 do. 1 2 88 do. 2 6 7° do. Cloudy 8 75 Calm 2 88 W 2 6 7? do. 2 do. 9 8 76 E I 2 88 do. 2 6 7? do. 2 do. (clear A. M.) to 8 80 E. ■^ 2 9 7 E 2 C 78 E SE 3 Clear ii i 75 E 2 2 9 8 E SE 2 6 78 E SE 3 do. J2 8 80 E 2 2 TT1 E 3 6 35 E 1 Hazy *3 8 * E j 2 103 E 2 6 86 E 1 do. and cloudy '4 O O 92 WSW 3 2 112 N 4 6 90 N 1 do. a Kampsin ^5 8 80 NW 1 2 97 NW 1 6 86 NW 1 Clear (at Belbeis 16 8 80 N 2 2 92 dc. 3 86 do. 2 do. 37 8 79 sw 1 2 90 SW 2 6 85 E 4 Hazy (P. M. little rain) 18 8 75 N ■< 2 2 CO NW 2 6 83 NW j 2JCkar JO 8 86 .. E 2 88 do. 2 - 6 80 N 2 Hazy and cloudy 20 8 7si E 25 2 9* E 2! 6 90 E 3 do. 21 8 78 E 9 2 E E 2 do. 22 8 76 E SE 4* 2 2 95 SSE 2 6S2 E SE 2 do. 23 882 E 112 S 4 698 SW 4 do. (at Ben El-Hazar a '■-,' s!so SW v 11 100 SW 3 689 w 2 Cloudy (Kampsin) -5 8 go do. 93 NW 2 6 8a NW 2 Clear 26 8 76 WNW 76 WNW n 684 do. 3 Cloudy -> - 8 75 NW 2 2 9 1 NW 2 685 do. 2 Clear 23 8 79 W i 2 92 W z 68; do. 2 do. 29 8 77 NW T 2 97 N 2 685 N "3 do< 30 8 77 N 2 2 97 NE 3 685 NE 2] do. 31 8 7? 1 NE 2 2 98 | NE ij 691 N 2| do. During the Month of June 1801, in Egypt. ll 8 80 i Calm 2 I C4 NE 1 NE 1 1 6I92 NE •^ 8 76 NE 2] 2 95 2 6s 7 NE 3 4 g 80 NE r 2 100 NE 1 e! 9 2 NW 8 84 Calm 2 103 NE 2 686 do. c 8 84 NW 1 2 103 NW 2 6 88 do. % f Vi do. 2 2 108 do. 2 6 86 do* 8 %i do. a 2 100 do. 35 e 8s do. 1 8 8 84 do. 1 2 9 6 do. 2 6 80 do. 9 10 8 8c do. 2 2 93 do. 2 6 80 do. 8 ^0 Calm 2 93 do. 2 6 80 do. j 1 8 83 NE I 2 96 N 2 6 80 do. 32 8 82 Calm 2 95 NE z 6 80 NE 13 14 *5 16 8 33 NE T 2 97 NE 2 6 So NE 8 So NE X 9 1 NE if 6 80 NE 8 82 NE 1 2 102 NW 2 6 95 N S82 E 2 2 105 do. 2 6 97 W 27 8 82 NW 2 2, 100 NE 3 6 86 NE iS 8/7 NE 2 2 95 NE 6 h NE *9 20 8 77 NE 3 2 94 NE 3 6 82 NE 876 NE 2 ^> 97 NE 2 6 8c NE 21 884 NE 2 105 NE 2 6 80 NE 22 884 NW 1 2 ICO NW 2 6 82 NW 23 24 880 W 1 2 100 W 1 6 So W 878 d0._ 1 2 ro2 NW 2 6 80 NW 2 ; 8.85 NW ; : 2 100 do. 3 680 NE 26 SSi do. i 2 2 ICO do. r NW z- %%i N 1 2 2 I02 N j NE 28 8> 3 NE 1 2 2 I07 NE ! 6|96 N 29 30 8,87 NW ; 1 2 I0; NW " 694 NW 8 , 8 5 do. V 1 ' - 103 do. h 6 do. STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &e. During the Month of July 1801, in Egypt. July | Ther. Mor. J Therm. Noon. | Therm. Even. | CO p X t/3 a 3 i/3 r Force of the Wind. *- O X 2 u -a X, in . 1 Force ~c\ of the j>|wind. c X t u -0 V3 :: 3 T3 c Forte of th Wind Remarks. 1 gt?3 NW 2 98 W 3 94 NW 3 Hazy and cloudy 2 8,82 do. 2 2 IOI NW 2 6 92 do. 3 do. 3 8.82 do. 2 [04 do. 2 6 92 do. 3 do. 4 SJ82 NE 2 106 do. 3 < IOI do. 3 dQ - 5 6 8J84 884 WNW 2 106 do. 2 98 do. 2 do. NW t8 2 104 co. 3 6 92 do. 3 Great fog and heavy 7 8 8[8 2 do. 2 104 do. 3 6 92 do. 3 dews S84 do. 2 10, NE 3 6 IOI NE 3 do. 9 885 do. 2 106 NW 3 6 92 NW 3 do. 10 8.84 do. 2 105 do. 3 6 94 do* 3 do. 11 S|8 4 do. 2 105 do. 5 6 94 do. 3 do. (Grand Cairo) 12 w$ do; 2 98 do. 2 6 94 dp. 2 do. 13 8 8; do. 2 96 da. 2 6 92 do. 4. Tempest, winds, dust» *4 8 86 do. 2 95 do. 2 6 90 do. 3 Cle.'r 15 8 83 do. 2 96 do. 2 6 94 do. z do. lb 885 do. 2 95 do. 2 6 90 do. 2 do. '7 88 S Calm 2 95 do. 2 6 93 NE 3 Oppressive 18 8 87 NW 2 99 NE 2 6 95 NE 2 Clear 19 887 do. 2 98 NW 2 6 92 NW 1 do. 20 8:88 do. 2 103 do. 2 6 ioo N NE : 1 do. 21 8 87 do. z 101 do. 1 6 94 NNW 5 do. 2a 8 87 N 2 96 do. 2 6 90 NW 2 do. 23 8 56 NW 2 9 6 do. 2 6 89 do. 2 do* 24 8 85 do. 2 96 do. 2 6 90 do. 2 do. *5 26 8 87 do. 2 96 do. z 6 90 do. : I do. 8 8 5 do. 2 95 do. 2 6 90 do. 5 Cloudy arid foggy 27 8 85 do. 2 95 do. 2 6 90 do. ; Cloudy 28 8 83 do. ^ 99 do. 2 6 90 do. j Clear 29 8 85 do. 1 2 98 do. 2 6 89 do. J dd. 3° 885 do. 2 98 do. '■< 6 90 do. 1 do. 3* 8'*6 do. 2 98I do. 2 6 95 do. [ do. During the Month of A ugust 1S01, in Grand Cairo* 1 8 87 NW 3 98 NW 2 695 NW '. Clear n 8 88 do. 3 100 do. 1 6 ! 96 do. 1 do. 3 8 qo do. 3 103 do. 2 6 ,99 do. : Cloudy 4 8 So W 1 98 do. 2 6' 9S do. Clear 5 8 83 NW 3 95 do. 3 6 88 1 do. 1 do. 6 8 83 do. Ti ^ r ~* 96 do. 2 69c do. 2 dp; 7 8 82 do. 3 97 do. i 6|9o do. do. 8 8 82 do. 3 95 do. 2 6|8 5 do. do. 9 10 8 82 NE 3 96 NE 2 6 92 N 1 do. 8 82 E 3 104 SW 2 6 92 NW 3 do. 11 8 82 NW 3 95 NW 2 6 9c do. ■] do. 12 8 82 do. 3 94 do. 2 6 ! 9c do. 7 do. J 3 8 82 do. 3 94 NE 3j 6188 N 2 do. "4 8 80 N 3 94 N 2 6 8; N 2 do. »5 16 8 80 N 3 91 N 2 6 8s N do. 8 8, NE : 92 NW 1 6 8 5 N 3 do. T 7 8 80 N NE 3 92 N 7 e 85 N 2 do. 18 8 81 N 5 93 NNW 3 6 *5 NNW 2 do. *9 8 79 N 3 92 do. 3 6 85 do. 2 do. 20 8 7') NNW 3 9 1 do> 3 6 S5 do. 2 do. 21 8 8c do. 3 92 do. 3 <3 85 do. J Cloudy 22 8 75 do. 5 92 N 1 6 85 N 2 Clear 1 * 3 8 78 do. 3" 90 NNW 1 6 85 NNW 2 Cloudy 24 ol 79 do. 3 89 do. 2| 6 84 do. 3 do. 2 5 ' 8 i79 N ■ 9c do. 2 f *5 do. 3 do. 26 8 Sc N 3 89 NW ; ( 84 NW 3 do. *7 8 79 NW • 85 do. 2 6 82 do. 2 do. 28 8 79 do. 3 *S 00. • 6 80 do. 2 do. 29 8 80 do. 5 881 do. Z 6 82 do. 2 do. 3° 8 7«| do. • 1 90I do. ; 685 do, 1 ; do. 3 1 8 -^ ' do. 3 1 9c ! | do. 1 ' « !8s ao. 2 do« (d ) STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c. Daring the Month of September 1801, in Grand Cairo. Sep_^ J Ther. Mor. J Therm.' $ 4 5 I 7 9 to ii 12 13 14 *5 36 f7 18 19 20 21 22 * 3 24 25 26 27 28 2Q 3° -C to en 1 Force 1 . of" the 8 => .... I o Wind.J;£ 79 79 79 77 79 79 8 79 8 79 878 878 884 8|97 79 78 78 76 75 73 74 8|75 8 7 8 7S 8|74 875 75 78 74 73 74 7i 8 N Calm NW do. CO. N N NW N N N NW N NW do. Calm NW Calm do. NW do. NE Calm do. do. do. N NNW NW do. 1 9 c s 9 h 90 90 8 9 89 88 88 88 9 c 6 Noon. Therm. Even. Force c j of the Wind. • j Force 1 j of the £ j Wind. 88 85 31**3 383 3|84 38 384 383 383 384 85 i NW do. N NW do. N N NW N N N NW do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. N NW N N N NW N 685 684 84 3 84 85 86 84 84 85 85 85 684 684 6,84 6180 6JS3 6 6180 6 b 6 8 if NW do. N NW do. N N N N N N N NW do. N NW do. do. do. do. do. do. N Calm do. NW N N NW N Rem. irk;. Cle ai- de. do. do. do. Cloudy do. Hazy do. do. Cloudy do. do. Clear do. 21 do. 3I Very cloudy the whole z\ Clear 2! Cloudy 2! Clear z\ Hazy Clear dp. do. do. do. do. Hazy Cloudy do. (day. 1 2 3 4 5 6 I 9 3C ?I 22 33 34 35 I 18 39 20 t 21 22 23 24 -5 26 28 59 3° 3* During the Month of 0£1 - ob< :r ] 8oi Si; 1 Calm j | 3J79 NW 2 6 75 871 N T | 3 79 N 2 6 75 8 7 2 N 4- 3179 N 4 6 77, 8 74 N 3 3|79 N 3 6 78. 8 75 N 3 379 N 2 6 78 8 76 N 1 3 79 N 2 6 78 8 "7 N 2 3 78 N 2 6 77 8 75 N 2 3|79 N 2 6 7 ; - ; 8 75 N 4 3|8o N •: 6 79 S 7 6 N 2 3i8o N a 6 79 8 76 N 2 3J79 N z 6 77 8 77 N 2 378 N 2 6 78 8 77 N 3 379 N 1 6 79 8 76 N 2 3i79 N 2 6 77 8 75 N 2 3|79 N 2 6 78 g 75 N ^ 3l79 N 2 6 78 8 76 N 23 79 N • 6 7S 8 75 N 4 3 79 N 2 6 78 8 75 N 2 3 78 N — 6 78 8 76 N 2 3 ?9 N 2 6 78 8 75 N » 3 80 N ' J 6 6 79 8 73 N 3 3 83 NE 4 l ^o 8 74 NE 4 1 3j8o NE E 4 6 78 8 74 do. 4, 3i?9 NE E 4 6 7 7 8 7 3 do. 4 3i v 'o NE E 4 6 78 8 75 do. 3: 3 So 2 379 NE 3 6>8 873 do. do. 2 6 77 8 76 N 1 -?8o do. 2 6 79 8 75 NW ij 3 80 NW 2? 6 77 8 75 iCalm f Sl»* Calm 6 78 8 6? 1 do. i 1 9- S 3 ! 61 7l in Grand Cairo. NW N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N N NE do. do. do. do. do. N NW N S 5 Cloudy Clear do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do, do. do. do. do. do. do. do. do. Hazy Clear do. do. do. Hazy Clear do. do. STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, &c During the Month of November 1801, in Grand Cairo. Nov. | Ther. M or. ce be d. 1 Therm. No an. Therm. Even. a> 1 u * -/2 1 F01 oft Win g 3 • 1 Force £ S of the ■5 ! Wind. i| BE ! . O ,-. m ia " 3 "'> n 5, a- *"' » 7. ja 3 a ri ^ < M n r^ jo p M -« -< ~ -• 3 3" 3 ™ S3 ■ " a. 3 »-*• 5- g 5 3 ? i» S R D. O ft. 2 0. O £ re -^ 3 c m 3 xjq a ua i o C- 1 2 3 8 8 ;- 65 66 65 | S i 1 3J77 3!7 8 37° S s s 3 3 i 6 74 74 74 S SW NW 2 1 1 Cloudy Clear Cloudy 4 5 6 8 a 8 64 66 65 sw Calm NW 1 1 375 3l75 3|76 \v W NW 2 1 6 6 6 7i 7- 7 2 W W NW 1 1 1 ] do. Clear Cloudy 7 S 6- Cairn 376 do. 3 6 72 do. 1 do. 3 9 8 8 66 65 NW S 1 1 3 3 76 74 do. do. 3 3 6 6 7 2 7^ do. do. 2 1 1 do. do. 10 8 66 NW 1 3 69 do. 3 6 64 do. 2 Clear f-J 05 f-t 3 11 8 63 do. 1 3 66 N | 6 64 N : Cloudy n » 1 3 3 1 c 12 8 5S S 1 3 66 NW ! 6 64 NW 2 do. " 1 3 a. 2 » 00 ^ 3 *3 s;6o Calm 3 70 do. 1 6 66 do. 1 Clear O r 3^ 2. " -T3 e >»n. jo x 14 *5 86 2 SJS9 do. do. 3 3 68 70 do. do. 6 66 65 do. do. 1 1 Cloudy Clear £ -t n 5* s 3 g. § g s, 16 »|57 S 2 3 70 do. 1 6 65 Calm 2 Foggy - =■• .£ * *7 SI58 S 1 3 70 do. 2 6 65 NW 1 Clear « £t 3- c £? -• N ? ^ " 5 3 Sf 5. d- 3-*< » • ,£r n so rr> re 18 *9 8|s8 8 59 Calm NW 1 3 ! 70 00 do. do. 2 • 6 6 65 64 do. do. 1 H 2 do. Thun. lightn. 2C 1 61 do. 1 68 do. I 6 & 5 do. il & rain P, M. 05 < SL 3 21 I 59 s 2 3 68 do. I 6 65 do. 1 3 2 Cloudy 22 23 i 8 5« 60 s Calm 1 368 3|<3S do. NE 1 3 6 6 65 67 do. NE do. Clear F|! P " s 24 8 58 S 1 2 3 77 S _> 6 67 S j 1 I Cloudv ^ S. 1 3 *s 8 •-8 s 3 72 SW 1 6 68 Calm do. ^ =• g.j» 26 S 6t Calm 3 69 NW 2 6 66 do. do. S> * S-?^ S" 7 28 8 8 59 59 do. do. 3 3 68 70 do. NE 1 2 665 6 66 NW 1 Calm j 1 do. Clear S3-^ ra ° <+• ■s r> 2 -t re 29 8 60 do. 3 69 NE E 3 6(6^ do. do. • „. 2. ^ Ch 3° 8 55 d( ). 1 70 NE 1 6 67 NE 1 do. a » n n 1 .' h^. ( «.. in 70 II 12 J 3 J4 *5 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 2 4 2 5 26 27 28 2 9 3o: 8 3«l » During the Month of December 1S01, in Grand Cairo. 60 60 t 60 55 59 5 60 5 66 6a 6, NW NE NE N S WNW N N NW N N NE NE NE NW SW S N S Calm S NW N N N NW ' J 266N NE NE S s s 205 -J68 z|68 2; 70 6j67.Calm N Calm N SW NW N N NW N N NE N NE NW N S N S Calm do. do. N N . N N 665 6J66 6j66 666 665 6'6 5 6|6 5 6!6 4 6'6 3 6'6i 6J62 6 ! 64 665 662 6 02 6^62 662 6,67 6 6j 672 663 662 662 662 C 60 6 5 057 6 58 660 6.60 8 : N NE N N S S Cloudy and foggy do. and do. Clear do. do. Clou4y do. do. do. (Foggy A.M.) Clear Cloudy Clear Cloudy Clear do. do. (Foggy A.M.) do. Foggy do. do. do. do. do. Hazv Clear do. do. do. do do. Cloudy (Cloudy A.M.) STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, Sec. During the Month of January 1802, in Grand Cairo. )an. [ Ther. Mor. | Ther. Noon. | Therm. Even. | 1 . Force . Force # . . 1 Force CO C3 D SJ6x e a en ■Q 1 of the Wind. a ■a H n c J3 -d a of the Wind. lx O u -0 « -0 c 03 a I of the jj] Wind. Remarks. 1 Calm 2 73 NW 3 6 64 NW Cloudy 2 8 S 6 NW 3 2 70 do. 3 6 62 do. 2 do. 3 8 34 Calm 2 67 do. ) 6 63 do. 3 Clear (gr. fog A.M.) 4 8 48 do. 2 67 do. 3 6 59 N 1 Hazy (do. A. M.) 5 8 44 do. 2 66 N 3 6 58 N 1 Clear (do. A.M.) 6 8 4-5 do. 2 r H N 2 6 58 N 1 do. (do. A. M.) J 8 47 do. 2 66 NW 2 6 6o NW 1 do. 8 8 5<5 do. 2 66 NW 1 6 60 do. 1 Foggy 9 8 55 do. 2 69 S 1 6 63 Calm Clear (very foggy a.m. 10 8 5o S 2 2 7 1 s 3 6 62 S 1 do. 11 8 52 S 1 2 7 2 N 1 6 64 Calm Foggy 12 3 5° Calm 2 69 W 1 6 61 NW 2 Clear J 3 8 43 do. 2 6S NE 3 6 62 NE 2 do. H 8 48 NE 2 2 69 NE 3 6 64 NE 1 Hazy (foggy A. M.) 15 8 47 Calm 2 7° NW 2 6 63 NE ] Foggy the whole day 16 8 47 do. 2 7 1 NW 2 6 63 NW 1 Great fog 17 8 57 SW 2 2 ^3 S 3 6 61 SW 2' Hazy 18 8 57 S 1 2 7 8 s 3 6 7 3 s I Great fog J 9 8 61 S 3 2 82 s 2 6 68 N 2 Clear 20 8 61 N 2 2 7 J N 3 6 63 N 2 do. 21 8 53 Calm % 66 N 1 6 62 Calm do. (foggy A. M.) 22 8 51 S 1 2 &S S 4 662 NW I Hazy 23 8 5 2 Calm 2 68 S 1 661 S I Clear 24 8 47 SW 2 2 68 SW 2 661 SW 1 do. during night ; a 2 5 8 49 do. 4 2 58 SW 4 654 W I 1 (strong gale S.W. 26 8 46 do. 2 2 53 NW 4 6 50 NW I 3 Rainy 27 8 46 do. 3 2 55 do. 3 6 J l NE I Cloudy 28 8 43 do. 2 2 55 W 4 6 50 W 3 do. 29 8 43 S 9 2 55 SW ij 6 50 W 1 do. 30 8 4.3 Calm 2 36 NW 2! 6 51 NW 1 Clear 3 1 8 43 do. 2 58 NW 2] 655 do. '1 Cloudy During the Month of February 1802, in Cai I a 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 la 13 16 >7 18 *9 20 21 a2 2 3 24 2C. 2% 2 7 47 49 1-7 48 49 4 r > 4 s 53 47 48 39 5' 53 53 46 45 5S 44 4 46 8|54 856 S 55 856 860 856 S57 8 59 W w SW s SW S SW s Calm s s Calm do. W Calm S s s SW do. do. do. WNW do. NWN S SE 63 57 ;? 58 55 5? 5^ OS 68 6-8 73 72 69 64 62 65 c:8 60 66 66 66 67 6* 66 66 2 62 259 2 62 NW do. SW WNW WNW SW E SW NE do. SW do. NW N NE do. S S SW SW WNW NW WNW do. do. NWN NE NE °i54 6 56 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 3 A 5* 56 62 62 63 56 63 62 60 56 61 3^ 55 61 6c 60 64 60 60 62 60 59 59 2 4 ro, on the N NW" do. SW WNW WNW WNW NW SW NE NW SW NW do. do. NE Calm do. do. NW WNW WNW NW WNW WNW, WNWl 2 NWN NE NE ile, and at Rosetta. I Cloudy 1 2 4 4 - 3 1 do. do. day do. (3 Rain) do. do. do. Clear Rainy Cloudy Foggy and cloudy Hazy and cloudy Cloudy and foggy do. (great fog A.M.] Foggy and rain Clear (rain 3 A.M.) Cloudy Clear (on the Nile) Cloudy (lightning) do. do. Rain (Rosetta) Cloudy do. (Rain 2) do. do. do. STATE OF THERMOMETER, WINDS, RAIN, & c . Dating the Month of March 1802, at R setta and Alexandria. Mar. | Ther. Mor. J Therm. Noon. Therm . Even. 1 . Force Is . , Force . - Force >•* s c 13 S of the c3 d TJ of the a d ' a 1 of the e Remarks. at Q c 8 -C St V) £ Wind. B ™ si . > Wind. 6 ,% ^jWind. 1 E 4 I2 62 NE 4 59 NE 4 Cloudy 2 8 60 NE N 4 2 61 NE N 4 6 59 N 4 2 Rain 3 8 61 N A * 64 N 4 6 60 N 4 i Cloudy 4 8 62 NWN 2 2 60 NWN 2 6 62 NWN 2 Clear 5 6 8 66 NE I 2 "7 NE 2 6 64 NE 2 Cloudy 8 63 64 SE I 2 08 NW Z 6 62 NW z do. 7 8 NE 2 2 58 NE Z 6 64 NE 1 do. s S 62 do. I 2 70 do. Z 6 64 do. z do. 8 64 SE I 2 72 do. Z 6 6< do. 3 Clear 10 8 6c do. 3 2 "5 N 2 6 6 5 NE N ; do. 11 8 6i NE N 2 2 75 NW 3 6 65 NWN 1 T Rain 12 8 6 5 N 3 2. 74 NWN 2 6 6 4 do. : Clear *3 8 62 NE 2 2 69 N 6 63 NE N 3 Cloudy H 8 62 E 2 2 7c NE 2 6 63 NE '.; do. 15 S 6s E 4 2 70 NE N 3 6 °3 E ■■] Clear 16 8 64 Calm 2 75 do. 2 6 66 NE N 1 do. great dews 17 8 63 sws 3 V9 sw s •4 6 69 NW 4 Cloudy 18 8 61 NVV 4 263 JWNW 4 e 6c WNW 3 3 Rain, stormy *9 8 57 WNW 4 2^3 do. 4 6 60 NW 4 3 do. 20 8 57 NE N 4 : 2I65 'NE N 4 6 60 NE 1 3 Cloudy, stormy thun, 21 8 60 NE 2 2 6c NE 1 6 60 do. ?. 1 [lightn. and rain 22 8 64 do. 2 2,66 do. 2 6 6, do. 2 Cloudy 23. s 6 5 do. 1 2)67 N 1 6 6 s N 1 do. 24 S 65 SE 1 2 os NW 2 6 65 SE 2 Clear N.B. Having broke my Thermometer, I was under the necessity of concluding my Thermumetrical Journal. ( e ) INDEX. ABOUKIR, lake of, 256 Absalom, tomb of, 129 Abyssinia, information relative to, and Bruce's Travels, 239 Acacia, or thorn, whence the gum Arabic is collected, 248 Admiral, a Turkish, decapitated for neglect of duty, 64 Alm6s, or dancing girls, 268 Ambassador, English, at Constan- tinople, fete given by on the King's birth-day, 87 Ambassador, Russian, celebration of the Emperor's birth-day by the, 37 Amusements, favourite, of Grand Seignor,- 29 <—- cf the Turks of con- dition, 39 Arab marriage, celebration of, 240 Arabian camel-drivers, character anil manners of, 178 Arabs, method employed by them to preserve their corn from pil- lage and fire, 1 19 — — plunder the tents of the Eng- lish at Jaffa, 141 Army, Turkish the, attended by a number of dervises, 23 ' encumbered with useless followers, 170 — cavalry belonging to 177 principal officers of, 168 review of the, by the Grand Vizier, 138 undisciplined state, 105 Arnauts, character, dress, arms, &c. of the, 175 , desertion of, from the Vi- zier's army, 1 15 Ascalon, 186 Ashdod, and the adjacent country 1S6, 188 Astrologers consulted relative to the proper time of launching a ship of war, 81 Atmeydan, or hippodrome, for athletic exercises at Constanti- nople, 39 Bakers, punishment of fraudulent, in Turkey, 38 Baldwin tomb of, at Jerusalem 122 Banditti, formidable hordes of, in the neighbourhood of Constan- tinople, 79 — — — , measures taken to punish them, 80 Barge, the Grand Seignor's, 81 Barley, large consumption of, in the Turkish camp, 145 Barralcat, Turkish army encamps at 205 , singular phenomenon observed at 205 Bath, description of a Turkish, and of the processes and operations to which the bather is subjected 70 description of, at Cairo 230 in the Grand Seignor's camp ar Jaffa, 103 — — warm, bad effects of the too frequent use of, 32 , public, at Constantinople 71 Bavaria, dress of (he women 342 Bazars, account of the, at Con- stantinople, 37 — — , good police of the, 37 Bedouins or wandering Arabs, cha- racter and manners of the, 164 , arms of the, 165 Belbeis, description of, 217 — — — , defeat of French near 217 Belgrade, village and aqueducts of, 5 1 Ben-el-hazar, situation of, 220 Bcn-el-hazar, productions of the country in the vicinity of, 221 Bethlem, description of, 124, 126 , church of St. Catharine at, 124 , pools of Solomon near 124 Beys, arrest of the Mameluke, by the Grand Vizier, 271 , massacre of, 272 Biram, celebration of the, in the camp of the Grand Vizier 156 Biram Courbam, grand procession on the opening of, 41; Birds, catacombs of, in Egypt 243 Bonaparte, inhuman conduit of, at Jaffa, 101, 106 , extraordinary threat by, relative to Jerusalem, 121 Bosphorus, description of the, and its banks, 25 , beautiful fountain on the banks of, 33 Bostangis, body-guards of the Sul- tan, 179 B^ulac, distant view of, 224 ruinous state of, 247 Breakfast, a Turkish, 45 Buffalo the, well adapted to Egypt, . 2 53 Burials, comses of those who die of plague covered with red cloth 76 bodies of the Turks interred without coffins, and naked yy Euyukdere, a village near Constan- tinople, description of, 28 31 , castle of, 28 , amusements of the inha- bitants of, 32 40 -, plenty of provisions, ve- INDEX. 419 Cairo, cavalcade of women at 236 — — invested by the combined ar- my of Turks and English, 226 1 ■■■ surrendered by capitulat. 227 1 '■ -" ' evacuated by the French 230 1 the Grand Viz'er makes his public entry into, 231 , opening of the canal at, 238 ■, marriage processions at 249 , slave markets at 252 , description of the streets, houses, &c. of 262 263 , palaces of the B ys at, 263 , Joseph's well, 265 , inhabitants of, their manners language, and dress, 265 266 , manufactures and commerce of, 267 268 > jugg'ers at, 269 , aqueduct at, 269 , procession accompanying the holy carpet 272 I Cairo, Old, account of 269 Cameleon, dissection and descrip- tion of a, 112 Camels, 161 , Arabian breed of, 196 Camel-drivers, Arabian, character &c. of 178 Camp of 'he Grand Vizier's army at Jaffa, 96 98 — — , ravages by plague in 147 Camps, Tuikish, manner of light- ing the, in the night, 171 ■ , exposed to surprise 171 entertainments 148 getables, &c. at 33 Cadi Asker, or military judge, 168 Cadi-Kui, village on the site of Chalcedon, btautiful prospect from, 85 Caimac, an agreeable preparation of milk, 45 •— — — , method of preparing, 81 Caicks, Turkish merchant ships 26 Cairo, Grand, and the environs, view of, 224 Cannon, foundery or, at Cairo, Caper-shrub, grows wild in Cy- prus, 94 Capi-Aga, or chief of the white eunuchs, 77 Capitan Pacha, ceremony of his ta- king leave of the Sultan, 22 ———, visit of ceremony 36 , visit on board the flng-ship, 40 -, character of the 57 Caravan for Mecca, departure of the, from Caiio, 278 Castel Rosso, island & town of 301 420 INDEX. Castro, or Mitylenc, town and port of, &c. 3ZI Cavalry Turkish, arms, discipline, mode of fighting, &c. — -i— , mode of warming apartments at 69 falls of snow at, on 1 3th cf March 75, 78 Desert, effects of a storm in the, 201 Diana, temple of, 299 Diarrhoea, prevalence of, among the Turkish and English troops, 222, 228 , causes of the, ib. Dinner, a Turkish, 47, 90 , produced among the Greeks and Armenians by their diet in Lent, 83 Djerid, a military sport much in vogue among Turks of condition, 39> 156 Dourra, or Indian corn, cultivated on the banks of the Nile, 224 Doves, great numbers of, in the cy- press-grovesof thecemeteries, 27 Doves, large flecks of, near Korin in Egypt, 215 Dromedaries, corps of French troops mounted on, 99 Dysentery, many of the English at- tacked with, 30 Egypt, haziness of the atmosphere in, 215 INDEX. 421 Egypt, mode of getting in the corn in, 216 , wheat, flax, lucerne, and mustard cultivated in, 220 — — , unhealthiness of the climate of 237 ■ , excessive heat. in, 237 , method of irrigating the high grounds, 241 Elgin, Earl of, arrives at the Dar- danelles, 59 ■ , visits the Capitan Pa- cha, ib. ■ , introduces the inocula- tion of the cow-pox at Constan- tinople, 69 -, fete given by, on the 4th of June, 88 English detachment, junction of, with the Grand Vizier's army, 9 6 English detachment, encampment 01 tl e, 99 English detachment affected with an eruptive complaint, 104 Enthusiastic volunteers in the Tur- kish army, 177 Eshtaol, 188 Execution of the Pacha of Nicome- dia, 87 Fead, Major, death of, at the for- tress of St. Jean d'Acre, 53 Fellahs, or Arab husbandmen, ab- ject state of the, in Syria, 163 , character of the, 163, 164 , construction of the villages of the, in Egypt, 214 -, wretched state of the, 215 Feredge, part of the dress of the Turkish women, 31 Fever, malignant, cases of, 352 Fortresses, Turkish, remark on, .54 , ancient proverb relative „ t0 ' 55 Foua, a town in the Delta, 254 Franklin, captain, resigns and re- turns to England, 24 Franks, manner in which thev sa- lute the Turks, 27 French, cruelty of at Jaft'a, 101 — — — , scene of the horrid massa- cre of prisoners by, 106 Freezing mixture, experiment with the, in Egypt, 274 Galangis, or Turkish marine, dis- honesty of a, 59 Gaming, Turkish soldiers, guilty of, punished with death, 144 Gaza, description of the country near, 191 ————— of the town and sub- urbs, 192 — , beautiful gardens near, 193 J 95 — , porch at, of which Samson carried away the gates, 192 — — , ports of, 195 , pyramids of, 231 Goats, in Syria, 160 Germany, journey through, 341 Grandees, precarious state of, in Turkey, 170 Grand Seignor, favourite amuse- ment of, 29 ■ ■ , visits Chiflick, and reviews the English detachment, 35-43 --, officers of the mili- tary mission introduced to, 21 ceremony of his taking the field, 22 > , description of the dress, &c. of the troops attend, ing him, ib. ', anecdotes of the 156 — -, character of the, 100 , tent of the, 183 , lays the first stone of a new bastion at Jaffa, 1 1 1 -, receives a magni ficent present from the Sultan, 234 Grand Vizier's army, progress of, towards Cairo, 187, 225 422 INDEX. Grand Vizier's army, commences active operations, 195 , enters Africa, 198 — — , encamps at Zaca in the desert, ib. -, sufferings of the, in their march through the desert, ib. , encamps at El-Arish, 199 , serious disagreement in the, 200 . , takes Salahieh, 202 -, encamos at .Barrahcat in 1 the desert, 205 ■ ■, enters Salahieh, 210 •, defeats the French near Belbeis, 218 , invests and takes Cairo, 226 Greek marriage, 74 Greek wumcii, dress, manners, &c. of the, 32, 455 — , many decay early, 32 ■ , passionately fond of dancing, 37 -, very numerous in the Eu- ropean provinces of Turkey, 35 -, celebration of the festival of St. John by the, and Easter, 36, 83 -, amusements of, 40 Gum arabic, whence collected, 248 Gum mastic, considerable quanti- ties of, collected in the island of Scio, 315 Hans, or inns, for the Turkish merchants at Constantinople, 68 Harvests near Constantinople be- gin in June, 34 Hedgin, a species of the camel, 161 Heliopolis, 227 Henna, Turkish women stain their nails with a colour obtained from the, 32 Holland, roads in, and general face of the country and cultivation, 348 Holy family, grotto in which they are said to have taken refuge in Egypt, 246 Holloway, Colonel, succeeds Ge- neral Koehler in the command of the English mission, 151 — — — ~, and the officers under him, receive gold medals from the Grand Seignor, 281 Huly Land, progress through, Il6 ■ ■ . ', topographical account of the most interesting objects in the, 133 Homer, school of, in the island of Scio, 315 Horses, Turkish, description of, and the mode of treating them, 30, 181 , mode of shoeing, in Tur- key, 30 — , food of, 30 -, Syrian, 161 H^od, Captain Samuel, introduces many improvements into the Turkish fleet, 57 Hutchinson, General, visits the camp of the Grand Vizier, 222 — — , British army under the command of, joins the Turks, and takes Cairo, 226 Ibis, mummies of, preserved in the catacombs near Saccara in Egypt, Improyisatori, at Cairo, 264 Indigo, plantations of, on the Nile, 222 , mode of preparing, 226, 256 Ismael Pacha, death of, 185 Jackals, abound in Syria, 195 , great numbers of, enter the camp at Jaffa, 114 Jaffa, in Syria, description of 95, 101 , storming of, by Bonaparte's army, 98, 102 , inhuman massacre of the in- habitants in cold blood, 101 INDEX. 42 3 Jaffa, gardens of, 106 James, St. place where his head was deposited, 124 Jaivssaries, mutiny of the, 142 , ceremonies on paying them their arrears, 143 -, origin and present state of the. 172 , best troops in Turkey, 173 Jehoshaphat, valUy of, several mo- numents in the, 129 Jerome, St. ancient building at, 119 Jerusalem, church of the sepulchre at, 121 ■ , scene of our Saviour's sufferings at, 122 ■ ■ , Armenian church at, 123 , sepulchres of the kings at, 127 -, description of the coun- try near, 1 19 -, site of the temple of Solomon, and palace of Pilate, 120 — — — , extent of the city of, 121 Julien, fort, near Rosetta, 293 Jugglers, Egyptian, 114 Kahnyounes, village of, 197 Kaimakan, the British officers in- troduced to the, 3c Kaithana, place chosen for artillery experiments, 36 Kampsin wind, effects of the, 202 213, 216, 219, 238 Kiosque, a Turkish pleasure-house, description of, 36 Koehler, General, death and fune- ral of, 147, 151 — — — , Mrs. dies of the plague, . . . H7 Korin, in Egypt, village of, 214 , precious stones iound near, Kuchuk Hussein, lr.gh-admiral of the Turkish fleet, 57 Kymak, method of preparing, 81 Leake, Captain, sent to reconnoi- tre the French, 144 Leandcr, tower or, fine view of Constantinople from, 82 Leghis, light cavalry in the Turk- ish army, 177 Lepers, hospital for, in the island of Scio, 252, 314, 319 , state of the patients, 319 Levant Chiflick, description of the country and soil near, 29 — — — , barrack at, for the English detachment, ib. Limesol, in Cyprus, description of, and of the adjactnt country, 94 Lupine cultivated in Egypt, 213 Lydda, town of, 152 Mahomed, fete in commemoration of the birth of his mother, 23C Mahramah, head-dress of the Turk- ish women, 31 Mamelukes, origin, costume, &c. of the, 178 Marriage, celebration of a Greek, 74 May-day, celebration of, by the Greeks, 85 Medical art, miserable state of, in Turkey, 180 Medical Journal, or account of the diseases that prevailed among the Ottoman and English troops in Syria and Egypt — the pre-dispo- sing causes, symptoms and cure, 353 Mekias, or Nilometer, 230 Melons, large, at Jaffa, 106 Memnon, fragment of a colossal statue of, 258 Memphis, supposed site of, 242. 283 Menouf, canal and town of, 253 Meshtoule, in Egypt, country in the vicinity of, 220 Messoudieh, wells of, 204 Metterhenna, a village on the site of the ancient Memphis, 284 Mewliachs, or whirling dcrvises, 72 Military Mission, sent to Turkey, 424 INDEX. Military Mission, names of officers composing the, 17 — — — , ceremony attending their introduction to the Grand Vizi- er, 21 Millar, Captain, present from the Capitan Pacha for the widow of, Mimosa Nilotica, 24.8 Minage, account of this singular visual deception, 206 Mito, inhabitants of, not attacked by the plague, 62 Mokatam, description of Mount, 251 Mosque of Santa Sophia at Con- stantinople, 39, 52, 86 Mosques of Constantinople, inte- rior of, 86 Muczins, criers, stationed in the minarets of the mosques to call the people to pray, 25 Mufti of Jerusalem, visit from, 123 Mummies, plain of the, descrip- tion of the catacombs in the, 242 Mussulmen, heads of decapitated, placed under their arm, 144 Mustapha, General, alias Camp- bell, account of, 184 Navy, Turkish, little encourage- ment to the surgeons of the, 41 , want of strict dis- cipline in the, 41 Nightingale, notes of the, heard in the desert of Theah, 206 Nile, subsiding of the inundation of the, 275 — — , inundation of, 254 , voyage on the, from Cairo to Alexandria, 253, 289 , observations on the rise and fall of the, in 1801, 285 , mud deposited by the ana- lysis of the, 289 Nilometer, description of the, at Cairo, 230, 285 — — — — — , French, inscription on the, 230 Obelisk, granite, in the Atmeydan at Constantinople, 39 Olives, Mount of, 128 Ophthalmia, prevalence of this dis- ease, 118, 228 — ', causes thereof, 118 " '■' , dissertation on the causes, symptoms, and cure, of the Ophthalmia of Syria and Egypt, 391 Ostriches, mode of hunting them, 2 93 ■ ■ — — , their eggs suspended as ornaments from the roofs of the mosques, 293 Ottoman Empire, tradition relative to the downfal of the, 172 Ovid, tcwer of, 52 Partridges, Egyptian, 275 Patmcs, island and town of, de- scription of the, 91 Pear- trees, prickly, employed as fences at Jaffa, 106 Philistines, view of the land of the, 186 Pilgrims, lake of, 276 Plague, the, singular mode of com- municating, 80 — — — , many persons die of, at Jaffa, 107, 146 symptoms and predispo- sing causes of, 109 , remarks on, 152 -, singular fact relative to the, 184 -, communicated by mean; of a pelice, 185 ., indifference of the Turks to the 201 -, details relative to the, 236 252, 273, 279, 292, 355 -, frictions with warm oil for prevention and cure of the, 355, 357 , cases of, 355, 372 -, historical journal of, de- tails relative to the causes, symp- toms, cure, &c. of the, 376 Plane-tree, immense, at Stancho, 93 Police, wretched state of, at Con- stantinople, 83 Pompey's Pillar, at Alexandria, 257 INDEX. Proccss'cn, grand, on the opening of the Beyram festival, 45 — ■ , of General Koehler, and the officer of the Mission to the Porte, 21 Psorophthalmy, an endemic disease in Syria, 166 , causes of, 166 Punishment, singular, inflicted up- on a Turk for an assault, 79 R.ackay, a spirituous liquor, 162 Ramah of Gilead, 186 Ramazan, or Turkish Lent, 74 , splendid illumination on the first night of, 74 Ramla, ruins of the tower of forty martyrs near, 117 — — , Latin convent of, 117 " , description of the town of, 186 ReisEffendi, character of the, 101, 1 10 Rhodes, city of, arsenal at the, 302 , beautiful villages in the neighbourhood of, 306 > , ancient habitations of the Knights, 303 , dress of the Greek inha- bitants, 306 Rice, plantations of, in Egypt, 254 Rickets very common in Turkev, Rosetta, description of, 255, 292 -, gardens of, 296 Rotterdam, neatness of the build- ings in, 351 Russian captain, singular ceremo- nies during an entertainment gi- ven by a, 75 Ryahs, denomination comprehend- ing Greeks, Armenians, and Franks, 34 — — , oppression of, ib. Sabr?, exercise of the Turkish sol- diers with the, 107 Sackars, a corps, who supply the Turkish army with water, 219 Sailors, Turkish, a turbulent set of men, 58 (O 425 Salahieh, description of the coun- try and inhabitants in the vici- niry of 210 Salah'eh, Arab village near, 210 Santon, humanity and good sense of a Turkish, 123 Scio, the island of, 311 , dress of the Greek women of, 312 —■■■■, Greek convent at Nehahmo- nee, in, 313 — , prevalent diseases in, 319 , town of, description of the 3i8 , promenade on the sea-shore, 3.13» 3»5 Selim III. Emperor of the Turks, is extremely popular, 46 — , has introduced many salutary innovations, 47 Seraglio, or palace of the Sultan, site of, 25 Serenades by Greek lovers at Bu- yukdere, 32 Seven Towers, castle of, 6j Seymen Bashi, an officer of the Ottoman army, 168 Sheicks, Arab, dress of the, 235 Sherbet, cooled with ice, 38 Ships of war, defcription of the Sultan Selim, the Capitan Pa- cha's flag-ship, 40 , launch of a Turkish, So , prayers on board of, 86 Shcubra Shaabi, productions of the country in the vicinity of, 223 Sick, neglect of the, in Turkish armies, 359 — — , means used by the Turks for transporting the, 359 Sigaeum, visit to the ancient, 60 , marble containing a curi- ous bas-relief, and celebrated in scripture, obtained there, and sent to England, 60 Sion, Mount, 124 Slavery, two Englishmen redeem- ed from, 36 Solomon, tern pie of, Turkish mosqee built on the site of the, 120, — — — , garden of, 125 Sphynx, the description of, 233 426 INDEX. Stancho, island of, beauty and fer- tility of, 92 Stanco, island of, or the ancient Cos, 307 Standard of the Turkish army, 171 —_. t consecration of, by the Mufti, 21 Syria, climate, face of the country, sail, and productions of, 157, 160, 165 , abject state of the husband- men, 163 -, diseases of, 166 Syrians, stature, complexion, dress, and character of, 162 Sugar-cane, plantations of, in Egypt, 254 Sycamore-tree, qualities of the wood of, 237 Tacta-Tepens, or board-beaters, a sect of Turkish dervises, 73 Talismans, extraordinary virtues ascribed to them by the Turks, 172 Tartars, employed as couriers by the Turks, 179 Tartavan, or Turkish palanquin, . ,8 7 Temple, subterraneous, of Diana, at Alexandria, 299 Tourrah, village and castle of/277, Troy, description of the plain of. 61 Tuff, a stone employed by the A- rabs for the cure of the mange '•1 hori'es, 252 Turkish army, principal officers of the, 168. '- , different casts of peo- ple which compose the, 169 Turkish women, dress, manner, &c. of, 3 1 Turkey, remarks on the mode of travelling in, jz Turks, general character of the, 179 Usury, case of, decided by the Grand Vizier, 88 Utrecht, the works and roads of, 35° Villages near Constantinople, wretched state of, . 5 1 Vintage near Chiflick begun on the 4th of September, 53 Virgin Mary, sepulchre of, 128 White, Dr. inoculates himself with pestiferous matter, and falls a victim to the experiment, 378 Winds, effect of the, in Egypt, 275 Wrestlers, General Koehler enter- tained with an exhibition of, ac the Pacha of Chennecally's, 90 Yebna, 186 Yenecheri Agassi, generalissimo of the janissaries, 174 Yourt, Turkish dish, prepared from sour milk, 33 Youzouf Zia Pacha, Grand Vizi- er, character of, 100 JUST PUBLISHED AND TO BE SOLD BY James Humphreys, At the N. W. Corner of Walnut and Dock-street:. THE FIRST VOLUME OF The Commercial Dictionary ; Containing THE PRESENT STATE OF Mercantile Law, Practice, and Cuftom: BT JOSHUA MONTEFIORE. WITH VERY CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS RELATIVE TO THE Laws, Usages, and Practice of the United States. IN THREE VOLUMES. £3* The fecond Volume will be published next Week* The Elements of Book-keeping ; Comprising a System of Merchants' Accounts, founded on Real Business, and adapted to Modern Practice, with an Appendix on Exchanges, including the recent Alterations in France, Holland and Italy. By. P. Kelly, Mas- ter of Finsbury- square Academy, London. From the Second London Edi- tion, augmented and improved. Extraff from the Preface. "Though the utility and importance of Book-keeping be universally un- derstood and acknowledged, the use of any new work on ihe subject may be questioned, when so many fystems have been written already by men of talents and learning. It is a fact, however, well known, though not easily accounted for, that there is not, in this great commercial nation, any Ele- mentary Treatise that accords with the improved practice ol the Counting- house. — The object, therefore, of the prefent undertaking is, — to explain the Principles and Modern Improvements of Merchants Accounts — to illustrate Rules by real Transactions — Rills cf Exchange, Infurance, and Shippine: By JOSHUA MONTEFIORE, Attorney and Notary Public of ihe City of London. Abridged of fuch Forms as are ufelefs in America and inter-, jperfed with others of eflablifhed VCe. GLEANINGS FROM THE MOST CELEBRATED BiOO»3 OK Hufbatidry, Gardening, and Rural Affairs. The general opinion reflecting Ale above compendium in England isdifplaycd by ks rapid run through two editions fince its publication, and its merit is itamped by the very handfome approbation of the different Reviews. We {elect the following, as being the molt concife. " This Work giyes the eftence of moil of the recent publicati™- 5 of many favourite authors on agricultural and rural economy, together with. the fur- veys of the feveral counties of England, Wales, and Scotland, drawn up at the defire of the Board of Agriculture. Piams are defcribed in their va- rieties; quantity of feed neceflary per acre, according to the various modes of cultivation; method of cultivating, weeding, cropping, and feeding; and laftly, the feveral ufes to which the produce, whether of feed or haulm, can be molt advantageouily applied. Trees, whether of tb* fruit or fcrelt kinds, are alfo treated of as to their varieties, the nature of the foil they delight in, their quality and affections as to their own growth, or to what may be in contact with them ; and the various ufes their bloffoms, fruit, leaves, cr their wood, are capable oi\ The management of bees, the dairy, and many other ufeful articles are likewife introduced ; together with a plate of fome ufeful implements for draining, tranfplanting ; &c. The manner by which hay is faved in wet feafons in the north oi England, by a practice called tippling. The whole is arranged with great concifenefs and merit, and will prove a moft defirable companion to iuch as have neither the meana or leifure to perufe the bulky materials Irom which this cheap tract is judici- oufiy feleaed." AM EPITOME OF FORSYTH ON THE Culture and Management of Fruit Trees: With notes on American gardening and fruits: and defigns for promoting the ripening of fruits and the fecuring them as early comforts : And further, of economical principles in building Farmer's Habitations. A TREATISE OF THE LAW RELATIVE TO Merchant Ships and Seamen: In four parts. By the Rt. Hon. Cm arles Abbott, of the Inner Temple : Barrifter at Law: and Speaker of the Houfe of Commons. Enlarged with Addenda contai ; j aDigeft of the Maritime Laws of the United States. REPORTS OF CASES argued and determined in the High Court of Admi- ralty (Great Britain), commencing with the Judgments of the Right Ho- nourable Sir William Scott, 1798. By Chr. Robinson, L.L.D. Advo- cate. Three volumes. The Fourth volume is now in the prefs and will be fhortiy published. £~r From the Title of this Work as well as of the preceding one, they • would appear as only neceffary to the Gentlemen of the Bar — but the whole grading IVcrld is intereited in the knowledge of their contents. The Multum of Vattel, of Grotius, Puffehdbrf, Beawes, &c. are here at once brought into view, and condenfed in Parvo. YOUNG's ESSAYS on the following interelting fubjects, viz. G&verimtent. Revolutions. Britifh Conftitution. Kingly Government. Parliamentary Reorefentauon, &c. Liberty and Equality. Taxation, &c. &c. THE PLEADER'S GUIDE, a didadic poem, in two books; containing the conduct of a fuit at law, with the arguments of Counfellor Bother'um, and Counfellor Bore'um, in an action betwixt John-a-Gull and John-a-Gudgeon, for afoul t and battery, at a late contefled election : By the late John Surrebutter, Efq. fpecial pleader and barrifter at law. THE ORIENTAL NAVIGATOR, or new directions for failing to and from the Eaft Indies. This edition of the Oriental Navigator coniains, befides what is contained in the London edition, directions for failing from the coatt of America for the Eaft Indies; inftrudtions for the purchafing of drugs and fpices in Alia and the Eaft Indies ; for the choice and purchafe of dia- monds ; — and for the judging of the finenels and value of gold by the ufe of the Chinefe touch needles ; with Tables of the weights, meafures, coins, money, &c. Sec. of different fcttiements in the Eaft Indies, &c. A Pocket Confpeclus of the London and Edinburgh PHARMACOPCEIAS : Wherein the Virtues, Ufes, and Denes, of the feveral Articles and Prepa- rations contained in thofe Works, are concifely ftated ; their Pronunciation, as to Quantity, is diitinctiy marked, and a Variety of other Particulars refpecling them given ; calculated more efpecially for the Ufe of Junior Practitioners. By Robert Graves, M, D. Member of the Royal College of Phyficians, London ; of the R.oyal Medical Society of Edinburgh ; of the Medical Society of London, &c. Sec. &c. (Cj>* It is prefumed any further Recommendation of the above Work than that it is dedicated to Sir George Biker, Phyfician in Ordinary to their Bri- tannic Majeities, is unneceffaiy, efpecially as we are informed in the De- dication, that it had received the Honor of his Approbation. Practical Obfervations on VACCINATION : Or Inoculation for the Cow- Pock. By JOHN REDMAN COXE, M.D. Member of the American Philofophical Society, and one of the Phyficians to the Penniylvania Hof- pital. Embellifhed with a coloured engraving, reprefenting a comparative view of the various llages of the Vaccine and Small-pox. A Compendium of the ANATOMY of the HUMAN BODY. Intended principally for the ufe of ftudents. By Andrew Fyfe. In two volumes. This edition is prefixed with a compendious hiftory of Anatomy, and the Ruylchian art and method of making preparations to exhibit the iiruiture of the human body, illuftrated with a representation of the quickfilver tray and its appendages, which are not in the London edition. THE CHEMICAL POCKET-BOOK, or Memoranda Chemica: Arranged in a Compendium of Chemiftry, &c. &c. By James Parkinson, M.D. With the lateft difcoveries. To which is now added; an account of the prin- cipal objections to the Antiphlogiltic Syftem of Chemiftry : By JAMES WOODHOUSE, M, D. Profeffor of Chemiftry in the Univerfity of Pcnn- fylvania, &c. embellifhed with two Plates of economical Laboratories. An Epitome of CHEMISTRY: By William Henry. £$> To him < J if- pofed to take Plcafure (as Mr. Parkinfon fays) " in the delightful walks "which are to be found in this department of fcience, where wide fcenes "of interell and amufement are conlbntly opening upon the mind," this little manual of Chemiftry mult prove of infinite lervice ; — 'fading the ftu- dent by an arranged feries of experiments (which may be performed by the moll economical apparatus), and by particular inductions fcr the perform- ance of them, to the acquisition of the knowledge he would feek, whether ior the purpofes of utility or amufement, MEDICAL ADMONITIONS to Families refpefling the Prefervation of Health, and the Treatment of the Sick : Alfo a Table of Symptoms, fer- ving to point out the degree of danger, and to diftinguifh one difeafe from another: With Obfervations on the improper Indulgence of Children, &c. By James Parkinfon, M. D. The Town and Country FRIEND AND PHYSICIAN: Or an arTedionate addrels on the prefervation of health, and the removal of difeafe on its firft appearance : Suppofed to be delivered by a Country Pliyfician to the circle of his friends and patients on his retiring from bufmefs: With curfory ob- fervations on the treatment of children, &c. Calculated for the promotion of domeitic happinefs. TRAVELS in the interior Diflrias of AFRrCA : Performed under the di- rection and patronage of the African affociation, By Mungo Park, Sur- geon: With an Appendix, containing geographical iliuftrations of Africa, by Major Renneil, and iliuftrated with a large map of Mr. Park's route in Africa. The Hifiory of (NORTH) AMERICA, books IX. and X. containing the hiftory of Virginia to the year 1688; and of New England to the year 1652 By William Robertfon, D. D. LYRICAL BALLADS, with other Poems : Two volumes in one. By W. Wordsworth. The beauty and purity of thefe poems cannot fail to re- commend them. So great has been the celebrity of them in London, that they ran through two editions in a very few months. The celebrated Mr. Cold- ridge in a note to the laft edition of his poems, fpeaking of Mr. Wordfworth, fays, he is "one whom I deem unrivali'd among the Writers of the prefent day in manly fentiment, novel imagery, and vivid colouring." The Hiftory of the ROTCHFORDS ; or the Friendly Counfellor. Defigned for the induction and amufement of youth of both fexes. LEONARD and GERTRUDE. A popular ftory, written originally in Ger- man, translated into French, and now into Englifh. The FARMER'S BOY; and RURAL TALES. By Robert Bloomfield. An Enquiry into the Duties of the Female Sex. By Thomas Gis- borne, M. A. PLEASING INCITEMENTS to Wifdom and Virtue, conveyed through the medium of anecdote, taie, and adventure : Calculated to entertain, forti- fy, and improve the juvenile mind. The AONIAN BANQUET ; or a Seleilion of Poems of acknowledged me- rit, by various and jultly admired Authors. New Rules for Playing the Game of CHESS ; with Examples from Philidor, Cunningham, &c. &c. To which is prefixed a pleafing account of its origin ; iome imerefting anecdotes of feveral exalted Pertonagrs who have been admirers of it, and the morals of chefs, written by the ingenious and learned Dr. Franklin. jLD-W AM 7 University of California SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 Return this material to the library from which it was borrowed. 01 APR, 1 1 M 1 2 1996 a 1 3 2003 REC'D VR JAN 1 5 2007 1996 - 99 URL 9t ~j\ a*H il AA 000105 369 3 3 1158 00230 4722 tr* »«Wi«^ ' "*'•!*■ '.*&?} •V ; -fe ' *3