R.APHIA AND REED 
 
 WEAVING 
 
 KNAPF 
 
 OO 
 
RAPHIA AND REED 
 WEAVING 
 
 INCLUDING ALSO 
 
 CAKDBOAED AND PAPER CONSTRUCTION 
 
 A PBACTICAL COURSE FOR PRIMARY AND 
 ELEMENTARY SCHOOLS 
 
 BY ELIZABETH SANBORN KNAPP 
 
 Head you may think; heart, you may feel: 
 But hand, you shall work always" 
 
 Thirteenth Thousand 
 
 MILTON BRADLEY COMPANY 
 SPRINGFIELD, MASS. 
 
 NBW FORK PHILADELPHIA ATLANTA SAN FRANCISCO 
 1914 
 
Copyright, 1901, o 
 Milton Bradley Company, 
 Springfield, Mass. 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 The object of this book is to give to class teachers a com- 
 plete series of models arranged in graded sequence, and 
 extending from the Kindergarten to the grammar grade. 
 
 Though well aware that no book can be a substitute for 
 an efficient instructor, efforts have been made to give the 
 operations in minute detail in order to assist those teachers 
 who, untrained in manual work, appreciate its value as an 
 educational factor, and believe that the development of the 
 senses, touch included, and the training of the hand in 
 artisanship, must be the root of mind growth. 
 
 This book* is the outcome of many years' experience in 
 teaching and study, whereby the need was felt for such a 
 series of elementary models as could be worked out in the 
 class room by the class teacher, and its chief object is to show 
 that hand training should and can be introduced in the Kin- 
 dergarten and continued, without the usual break, into the 
 High School. Although the models are not arranged in cor- 
 relation with any particular subject, here may be found the 
 basis from which can be constructed such objects as are 
 adapted to any subject taught. No teacher should feel con- 
 fined to a certain set of models, yet there must be such a 
 development in the gradation as will make the work easy and 
 delightful to the young pupils, and the articles made of such 
 form and nature, and so systematically arranged, that there 
 will be a steady growth in all phases of the work, and thus 
 the child's instinct for activity satisfied and cultivated, and 
 pleasure excited in the acquisition of skill. 
 
 285963 
 
CONTENTS. 
 
 PAGE 
 
 OUTLINE COUKSE IK CONSTRUCTIVE WORK 5 
 
 INTRODUCTION 7 
 
 CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER SERIES 1 9 
 
 FREE WEAVING SERIES 1 18 
 
 CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER SERIES II 25 
 
 CONSTRUCTION BY MEASUREMENT 34 
 
 FREE WEAVING SERIES II 38 
 
 CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD SECOND YEAR 44 
 
 REED WEAVING 63 
 
 CONSTRUCTION IN CABDBOARD THIRD YEAR 77 
 
 COURSE IN RAPHIA 99 
 
 RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC Ill 
 
OUTLINE COURSE IN CONSTRUCTIVE WORK. 
 
 GRADE, ELEMENTARY FIRST. TWENTY MINUTES DAILY. 
 SUBJECT. MATERIAL. MODEL. 
 
 Measurement.. Rulers, spaced one inch. Lines and geometric forms. 
 
 Free Weaving. Paper strips one inch wide. Gifts, such as boxes, baskets, 
 
 frames, cornucopias, etc. 
 Construction.. Paper folded into squares. Seed and flower boxes and 
 
 baskets, colonial furniture, 
 
 tents, canoes, etc. 
 Knot Work.... Cotton Twine. Horse lines and whip, chain 
 
 for whistle. 
 
 GRADE, ADVANCED FIRST. TWENTY MINUTES DAILY. 
 
 Measurement . . Rulers spaced one-half inch. Geometric forms, simple sur- 
 face covering. 
 
 Free Weaving. Paper strips one-half inch wide. Gifts, as handkerchief box, 
 
 napkin ring, blotters, etc. 
 
 I Paper, folded. Parlor, kitchen, dining room 
 
 Construction . . -< furniture for dolls'- houses. 
 
 ( Oak tag, measured and cut. Boxes, letter cases, etc. 
 
 SECOND YEAR. THIRTY MINUTES BI-WEEKLY. 
 
 (Measurement Rulers spaced one-quarter inch f Wall pockets, portfolios, 
 -< and and I pocket books, etc. 
 
 (Construction Colored bristol board. (Boxes and envelopes for 
 
 [ school use. 
 
 Weaving ( Reeds, pith, raphia, wire Mats, trays, baskets of various 
 
 < and shapes and sizes. 
 
 ( With the loom. Strips for carriage covers, etc. 
 
 Toy Making Glass, tin, spools, thin wood, etc. Kaleidoscope, bandilore, shelf, 
 
 jumping jack, etc. 
 
 THIRD YEAR. TWENTY MINUTES WEEKLY. 
 
 Construction Straw board, jute board, etc. Portfolio, boxes covered, 
 
 (Girls and Boys) match safe, etc. 
 
 ONE HOUR WEEKLY. 
 
 ( Raphia, braided and sewed. Mats, bags, belts, doll hat, 
 
 (Girls) < bonnets, etc. 
 
 ( Advanced knot work. Hammocks, shopping bags. 
 
 Construction ( Wood (at bench) etc. 
 
 (Boys) < and 
 
 / Working drawings. 
 
 FOURTH YEAR. ONE HOUR WEEKLY. 
 
 Sewing (Girls) Bags, aprons, sofa pillow (out- 
 
 lined), skirt, waist, etc. 
 Woodwork ) 
 
 and V (Boys) 
 
 Working Drawings. ) 
 
 FIFTH YEAR. TWO HOURS WEEKLY. 
 
 Cooking (Girls) 
 
 Woodwork ) 
 
 Bent-iron and V(Boys) 
 
 Wood Carving. ) 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 THIRD YEAR WOOD WORKING. FOURTH YEAR WOOD WORKING. 
 
 1. Boxes for window gardening. 1. Box, square joint, for window gar- 
 
 dening. 
 
 2. Cat and bat. 2. Box, planned by pupils. 
 
 3. Ring and ball puzzle. 3. Making Bench hook. 
 
 4. Game of dart. 4. " Nail box. 
 
 5. Jumping Jack I. II. 5. " Plant rack. 
 
 6. Whistle I. II. 6. " Bracket. 
 
 7. Rack for "egg farm" (for nature 7. " Shelf. 
 
 study). 
 
 8. Butterfly press. 8. " Loom, for use in Second 
 
 year. 
 
 9. Color whirligig. 9. " Weather vane. 
 
 10. Pencil box. 10. " Work box. 
 
 11. Swing for doll. 11. " Stool. 
 
 12. Dominoes and box. 12. " Wheel-barrow. 
 
 13. Weather vane. 13. " Christmas tree stand. 
 
 14. Ring toss. 14. " Cart. 
 
 15. Stilts. 15. " Water wheel. 
 
 16. Ant nest. 16. " Key rack. 
 
 17. " Bird house. ' 
 
 FOURTH YEAR. SEWING. 
 
 Practice work on unbleached muslin; running, over-handing, stitching, 
 two runs and a back stitch, and hemming stitch. 
 
 Practical application; holders, cooking caps, sewing aprons, work bags, 
 dusters, dish cloth, sofa pillow, (covers cross-stitched,) muslin undergarments 
 and shirt waist, ref ooting and darning of stockings. 
 
 Talks on weaving of cloths explanation of warp. 
 
 FIFTH YEAR. WOOD WORKING. 
 
 1. Making plant box. (Use of rip and crosscut saw.) 
 
 2. Marble board. (Chisel exercise.) 
 
 3. Bracket. (Practice with spoke shave.) 
 
 4. Ladder, or water-tight box. (Application of housed joint.) 
 
 5. Plant stand. (Application of halved joint.) 
 
 6. Making round stick. (Ruler.) 
 
 7. Knife box. 
 
 8. Making bird house. (Brace and bit exercise.) 
 
 9. Letter rack. (Decoration, carving.) 
 
 10. Stool. (Use of bevel square.) 
 
 11. Handkerchief box. (Decoration, chip carving.) 
 
 12. Glove box. (Carved, relief.) 
 
 13. Shelf. (Decoration, bent iron.) 
 
 14. Picture frames. (Decoration, pyrography.) 
 
 15. Strong box. (Metal bound.) 
 
 16. Newspaper rack. (Carved.) 
 
 17. Spool box. (Hinged cover, decorated.) 
 
 18. Sundial. 
 
 19. Plumb bob. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 In order to secure exactness in construction in cardboard 
 or wood the pupil must be taught to read and intelligently 
 use the ruler, and in the foregoing series of lessons two periods 
 per week are devoted to instruction in measurement. 
 
 But ten minutes are given to the first lesson. The idea of 
 measuring, by inches, having been well developed by using 
 inch sticks and tablets, the pupils are provided with rulers 
 marked off in one-inch spaces, and these, together with the 
 sticks, furnish material for many additional lessons, the child 
 being taught to measure from any given point on the ruler in 
 either direction. This development should not be hurried; 
 exercises in judging and then testing measurements of vari- 
 ous tablets and objects should be given, and results should be 
 satisfactory, if at the end of first school year the pupils are 
 able to space and rule both horizontal and vertical lines, and 
 cut strips of paper to given lengths. 
 
 Variety and pleasure are given by using black pencils for 
 spacing and colored ones for ruling the lines. The idea of 
 one-half inch is introduced into the work of the next year 
 (advanced first], beginning with the ruling of parallel lines, 
 then drawing to measurement various rectangular figures, 
 introducing in the latter part of the school year the develop- 
 ment of simple folding boxes. This work is carried on 
 through the second and third year, by a succession of graded 
 models made up in various materials. 
 
 For all cardboard work the Essex bristol is used. This is 
 comparatively inexpensive and may be secured in a variety of 
 colors. Portfolios, frames, pocketbooks, etc., are covered 
 
8 EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 with leatherette, and a heavy quality of book-cover paper is 
 used for the construction of many of the models. 
 
 One period per week is taken for weaving. Harmonious 
 combinations of two colors of book-cover paper, cut into 
 strips one inch wide for elementary first, and one-half inch 
 for advanced first, form the basis; and from this are con- 
 structed napkin rings, baskets, picture frames, and boxes of 
 various shapes and sizes. 
 
 In the second and third year reeds and raphia are fur- 
 nished, and by combinations of both of these, many easily 
 constructed gifts, such as mats, baskets, chairs, etc., can be 
 made and preserved for use at Christmas or Easter time. 
 
 Two periods per week are given to lessons in construction 
 the material for first two years being various shades of 
 "bluefiber" or "eel-skin" paper, cut into squares G^xG* 
 and folded into most delightful forms, complete sets of fur- 
 niture for dolls' houses being easily made by little fingers. 
 This paper creases easily, retains its shape and is very inex- 
 pensive, thirty cents covering all cost for a class of fifty, 
 twenty models for each child. 
 
 Variety is given to the work of the second year by using 
 glass, cardboard, thin wood, or tin, in the production of 
 kaleidoscopes, bandilores, jumping- jacks, swings, etc. 
 
 The boy in third year is eager and well-fitted to take up 
 bench work, and the girl to be initiated into the cutting and 
 making of dolls' garments ; from now on the manual training 
 teacher finds his pupils equipped with a fund of knowledge 
 which will prove helpful in the making and understanding of 
 working drawings. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 
 
 Series I. 
 
 ELEMENTARY FIKST GKADE. 
 Time twenty minutes bi-weekly. 
 
 The following models are based on the folded square, and 
 constructed from a stiff quality of fiber, manila, or hercules 
 cover paper, the latter being most expensive. In the dia- 
 grams, the light lines indicate folds, the heavy lines, cuts. 
 
 In giving these lessons the teacher should place the lines 
 on the board as she dictates the folding, first drawing a large 
 square to represent the square of paper, then the horizontal 
 diameter for first fold, indicating each additional fold by a 
 new line. After all folds have been indicated in the drawing 
 with white crayon, show with colored crayon the lines to be 
 cut, and by erasing lines, show which squares are to be cut out. 
 
 Variety can be given to the manner of presenting the 
 lesson by requiring pupils to work from the drawing only, 
 without dictation, each new line drawn indicating a step in 
 the work. Power is thus given to the child to enable him to 
 interpret readily the more difficult drawings which he will 
 meet when he works from measurement. 
 
 Not more than twenty minutes should be given to each 
 lesson ; and as it will take two periods to develop some of the 
 models, time may. be saved by providing each pupil with a 
 portfolio, made from oak tag, in which he may place his unfin- 
 ished work and waste pieces, all of which are to be saved and 
 utilized in the making of the different models. The muci- 
 lage may be placed on several small dishes on a table, each 
 child, after showing his work properly folded, passing to the 
 
EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 table and pasting into shape. This is a more cleanly and a 
 quicker way than to furnish paste for each child. 
 
 Model I. Square Box. 
 
 Model II. Oblong Box. 
 
 Fig. 1. Fig. 2. 
 
 MODEL I. SQUAKE BOX. 
 
 Fold the paper into sixteen small squares. (See Fig. 1.) 
 Cut in on the heavy lines, fold on the light lines. Fold into 
 shape and paste, using mucilage. 
 
 MODEL II. OBLONG BOX. 
 
 Cut off four squares on the right side or from top. (See 
 Fig 2.) Indicate this on blackboard by erasing. Cut in on 
 heavy lines, fold into shape and paste. Put the mucilage on 
 both sides of the center square and bring the ends around, 
 one inside and one outside the center. 
 
 \ 
 
 Model III. Cubical Box. 
 
 Model IV. Comb Case. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPEE. 
 
 11 
 
 MODEL III. CUBICAL BOX. 
 
 Cut as indicated by full lines, leaving nine squares, 
 3. ) Fold into shape and paste. 
 
 (Fig. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 MODEL IV. COMB CASE. 
 
 Cut out upper corner square. (Fig. 4.) Cut in on full 
 lines and fold into shape. Perforate back for hanging. 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 o o 
 
 Model V. Match Safe. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Model VI. Table. 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL V. MATCH SAFE. 
 
 Cut off four squares on the right side. (Fig. 5.) Cut 
 out the upper corner squares. Cut in on the remaining full 
 lines and fold into shape. Perforate for hanging. 
 
 MODEL VI. TABLE. 
 
 Cut and fold as for Model I. (Fig 6.), using for legs the 
 four squares cut away from Model V. (Fig. 7.) Fold each 
 of these squares on the diagonal, and glue them into the cor- 
 ners of the inverted box. For the tablecloth, fold a piece of 
 thin white paper into sixteen squares and then cut off about a 
 quarter of an inch around the edge. The cloth may be 
 fringed if desired. 
 
 Model VII. Fig. 8. 
 
 MODEL VII. CHAIE. 
 
 Cut as indicated at Fig. 8. Fold the corner squares back, 
 and bring the back of the chair up into position. Fold the 
 remaining two squares back and strengthen the back of the 
 chair by using the four squares cut away, folded through the 
 width and glued to the back. 
 
 MODEL VIII. LUNCH BOX. 
 
 Two squares of paper, 6 ins. x 6 ins. are required for this 
 model. For the box construct as in Fig. 2, Model II. 
 
 Model VIII. Lunch Box. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 
 
 13 
 
 Pattern for the cover will be found in Fig. 10. For the 
 curved lines trace around a one-inch semi- circular tablet. 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 MODEL IX. HALL BENCH. 
 
 But one square need be given to pupil 
 for the construction of this model, as the 
 piece cut from Fig. 11 will form Fig. 12. 
 Cut out corner according to diagram 
 and then cut in for laps, fold into posi- 
 tion and paste, using Fig. 12 for back 
 Hail Bench. and arms. 
 
 MODEL X. SLED. 
 
 Cut off four squares as indicated in Fig. 13, then fold 
 each outside square to half its width, and cut off the half at 
 upper end, ; then fold back for runners and cut curved lines as 
 indicated, using Fig. 14 for brace. 
 
 \ 
 
 Model X. Sled. Model XI. Butter Dish. 
 
 MODEL XI. BUTTER DISH. 
 
 But one square is needed for this model ; fold and cut as 
 indicated in Fig. 15, folding the diagonal edge back to a and 
 cut off the projecting ends after pasting. 
 
14 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL XII. CORNER SHELF. 
 
 Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 16, using for top of the 
 shelf two of the squares cut away, curving this piece to suit 
 the fancy of the pupil. 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 Model XII. Corner Shelf. 
 
 Model XIII. Side Shelf. 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 MODEL XIII. SIDE SHELF. 
 
 But one whole square need be passed for this model, using 
 for the brackets the piece cut away from Fig. 16. 
 
 Fold Fig. 17 on center line, and then fold up for top half 
 and down for bottom half of the back, glue into shape and 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 
 
 15 
 
 then add the brackets which are to be cut and folded as indi- 
 cated in Fig. 18. 
 
 MODEL XIV. CHAIR. 
 
 Use one square for this model. Cut as indicated at Fig. 
 19, fold into position and paste. The paper may be so folded 
 as to bring the two arms together and then cut into curves, if 
 desired. 
 
 <D 
 
 Model XIV. Chair. Model XV. Carriage. 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 Fig. 22. Handle. 
 
 O MODEL XV. CARRIAGE. 
 
 Two squares will be required for this model. 
 Fig. 23. The wheels may be cut from extra piece in Fig. 19. 
 Cut and fold Figs. 20 and 21 as indicated. Use for the 
 handle the pieces cut away, folding the handle double and 
 making it eight squares in length. Glue this to shape and 
 place in position before the top of the carriage is glued at the 
 
16 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 sides. Use toothpicks for axles and peas for Tiubs. If the 
 back wheels are made larger than the front ones, then the 
 back axle must be placed higher than the front one. 
 
 MODEL XVI. HOUSE. 
 
 Bnt one square is used for this model. Cut and fold as 
 indicated at Fig. 24, the dotted lines indicating a fold, into 
 half widths; glue these folds back. 
 
 MODEL XVII. COW SHED. 
 
 Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 25. Glue into position 
 and then cut off that part of the end which extends above 
 the roof. 
 
 Model XVI. House. 
 
 Model XVII. Cow Shed. 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 MODEL XVIII. BARK. 
 
 Use two squares for this 
 model. Cut and fold as indi- 
 cated at Fig. 26. A roof may 
 be added as indicated at Fig. 
 
 27. 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 Model XVIII. Barn. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 
 
 17 
 
 MODEL XIX. HEtf COOP. 
 
 Cut as indicated at Fig. 28, folding the 
 pattern as indicated by dotted lines before 
 
 Model xix. Hen Coop, cutting out the slats. 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 Fig. 27. 
 
 Fig. 28. 
 
FREE WEAVING, 
 
 Series /. 
 ELEMENTARY FIRST YEAR. 
 
 Material required for entire course of twelve models, five 
 sheets of 48-pound laid antique book- cover paper (of contrast- 
 ing colors) cut into strips one inch wide. 
 
 MODEL I. GROUND FORM OE FOUNDATION'. 
 
 Material. Two strips of red or scarlet. 
 Three strips of fawn. 
 
 Fold red strips across the width through the middle. 
 Fold the fawn color through the middle, tear and fold again 
 and lay these pieces on the desk. 
 
 Lay the two folded red strips on the desk; long edge 
 extending from left to right, with upper piece extending 
 about two inches beyond left end of the lower piece, open 
 ends toward the left ; have the open ends of the lower piece 
 toward the right. Much future trouble will be avoided if the 
 teacher requires this same arrangement at each lesson. 
 
 Now taking one of the short pieces, or weavers, in the 
 right hand, beginning at the top and left end pass the two 
 ends of the weaver outside the top and inside the lower 
 double strip, drawing the loop ends up close ; now with the 
 second weaver work in the same manner from the bottom 
 upward; then with another weaver work from the top and so 
 on, until all the strips are used. The teacher may easily 
 judge if all weaving is correct by asking the pupil to hold up 
 the work and at the same time turn it, after each weaver is 
 inserted, as both sides will be alike if correctly woven. 
 
 The work is tightened by palling the opposite ends of 
 the horizontal strips, and every two of the weavers, until the 
 work is flat. 
 
 To hold the weaving securely in place, open the free ends 
 and place the paste inside, using a thin, flat pasting stick. 
 
20 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL II. BOOK MARK. 
 
 Material. Two strips 
 of fawn. Four strips of 
 red. 
 
 (Waste of material will 
 be avoided if the two colors 
 are used alternately in the 
 long strips.) 
 
 Weave as before, and 
 after pasting, notch the 
 ends of the weavers close 
 to the long strip, leaving 
 the free ends of the long 
 strip about three inches 
 in length. Notch these 
 also. 
 
FREE WEAVING. 
 
 21 
 
 MODEL III. NAPKIN RING. 
 
 Material. Two strips of red, four strips of fawn. 
 
 Using fawn for weavers, proceed as for bookmark, and 
 after tightening and pasting, cut all weavers close to the long 
 strips, and cut the end of the long strips so as to leave 1\ inches 
 extending. Out corners 
 from these ends, and bring- 
 ing the two ends of weaving 
 together insert each free 
 end under the second square 
 on the opposite end. Glue 
 should be used to hold this 
 in position, placed under 
 the two outside squares. 
 
 MODEL IV. MATCH SAFE. 
 
 Material. One strip of red, two strips of fawn. 
 
 Use red for horizontal strips, tearing into two and folding. 
 
 Make four weavers from other strips. Insert the weavers and 
 
 cut close all free ends at 
 the top. Fold at each 
 square, pressing flat to se- 
 cure sharp edges. Insert 
 the long ends into the oppo- 
 site side and shape to ob- 
 long box. Overlap the free 
 ends on the bottom, cut to 
 length and glue. Cut from 
 cardboard of some harmo- 
 nious color, a piece 4x3 
 inches, and glue the box to 
 this near the lower left cor- 
 ner. Cut a piece of No. 1 
 sandpaper 1x2 inches and 
 fasten it to the right of the 
 
 box. Perforate the top of cardboard in two places and pass 
 
 ribbon through for hanging. 
 
 i- 
 
 1 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL V. EULEE. 
 
 Material. Four strips of scarlet, six strips of fawn. 
 Glue together each two of the scarlet strips, and use the 
 fawn for weavers. Weave strip twelve inches long, and after 
 
 fastening the weaving cut all ends close and mark each square 
 in numbers from one to twelve. 
 
 Before allowing the pupil to take this model home, teach 
 its use in measuring. 
 
 MODEL VI. CUBICAL BOX. 
 
 Material. Two strips of fawn, four strips of scarlet. 
 
 Using scarlet for weavers, make a strip eight inches long. 
 Glue the ends, and cut close all weavers on the 
 top edge. Fold at every two squares, creasing 
 well, and then join the ends by inserting under 
 opposite squares. Now interlace the other ends 
 of the weavers for bottom of the box, and glue 
 to position. 
 
 MODEL VII. PICTUEE FEAME. 
 
 Weave as for ruler, 
 making four strips, 
 each twelve inches in 
 length. Cross ends 
 for frame, and fasten 
 at each corner with 
 round head Magill fas- 
 teners. Cut a piece of 
 cardboard to size, and 
 glue to the back, leav- 
 ing an opening at the 
 top. In this card- 
 board perforate holes, 
 through which pass 
 ribbon for hanging. 
 
FREE WEAVING. 
 
 23 
 
 MODEL VIII. BOUND BOX. 
 
 Material. Four strips of fawn. 
 
 Seven strips of scarlet. 
 
 After gluing the fawn strips so as to make two long ones, 
 use the scarlet for weavers and 
 make a strip fourteen inches 
 long. Fasten the ends of the 
 weavers at the top and cut close. 
 Bring the opposite ends of the 
 woven piece together, and fasten 
 by inserting loose ends under the 
 opposite square. Bend up the 
 remaining ends of weavers for 
 the bottom of the box, and cut two circular pieces of card- 
 board to fit the bottom ; glue one outside and one inside the 
 box. 
 
 MODEL IX. OBLONG BOX. 
 
 Material. Six strips of scarlet. 
 Eleven strips of fawn. 
 
 Weave band sixteen inches 
 long for box (cover separate). 
 Fasten all weavers on the top 
 edge and cut close. Count two 
 inches from one end and fold for 
 the end of the box; then six inch- 
 es for one side, and again two 
 for the end. Glue into shape and 
 fit oblong piece of cardboard both 
 inside and outside of box. Weave 
 a strip six inches long for the 
 cover; punch holes one inch in 
 
 from both ends of the cover and the box and hinge with 
 
 ribbon. 
 
EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Material. 
 
 MODEL X. BOX WITH HANDLE. 
 
 Sixteen strips of fawn. 
 
 Six strips of scarlet. 
 
 Using fawn for weavers make a band twenty inches in 
 
 length. Cut the top ends 
 close and glue to shape, five 
 inches on a side. Fit a dou- 
 ble bottom of cardboard and 
 weave the strips for the han- 
 dle, fastening the handle to 
 the box by using Magill pa- 
 per fasteners. 
 
 MODEL XI. CUBICAL BOX WITH COVER WOVEN ON. 
 
 Material. Five strips of scarlet. 
 Three strips of fawn. 
 
 Use scarlet for weavers, but keep two of 
 them full length, tearing the others into halves 
 and folding. Weave first with four short weav- 
 ers, then insert two long ones. Do not pull 
 these two down close but let them remain far 
 enough above the woven strip to allow the inser- 
 tion of two fawn-colored strips, and then pull 
 down to position and insert the other two weav- 
 ers. Fasten into shape and form the bottom 
 as for Model VI. 
 
 This makes a very pretty candy box and the cover may be 
 fastened by tying a band of ribbon round the box. 
 
 MODEL XII. PINCUSHION. 
 
 Material. Two strips of fawn. 
 Five strips of scarlet. 
 
 Using scarlet for weavers, make a strip 
 ten inches long. Shape as for circular box 
 and fit double bottom of cardboard. Make 
 a simple form of cushion to fit this box and 
 glue it to position. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 
 
 Series II. 
 ADVANCED FIEST GRADE. 
 
 MODEL I. ASH CART. 
 
 Using one square of paper, 6 in. x 6 in. , fold and cut as 
 indicated at Fig. 1. As the wheels are too large to be cut 
 from waste pieces, it will be necessary to give each pupil one- 
 
 Model i. 
 
 I 
 
 ^/v 
 
 A 
 
 V 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
 half a square of paper from which the wheels may be cut. 
 This piece is not to be folded into squares. Use toothpicks 
 for axle and thills and peas for hubs. 
 
 Model II. Tray. 
 
 Cut as indicated at Fig. 2. 
 Fold back at dotted lines and 
 bring laps into position, placing 
 them under the edge folded down. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 MODEL III. BUTTON BOX. 
 
 Cut as indicated at Fig. 3, bring laps into position and 
 paste. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL IV. EXPRESS WAGON. 
 
 Fold and cut square 6 in. x 6 in., as indicated at Fig. 4, 
 using for Fig. 5 one of the pieces cut away, and making the 
 seat from the other piece. The depth of the box is but one- 
 
 Model III. Button Box. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 Model IV. Express Wagon. 
 
 NA 
 
 Fig. 5. Fig. 4. 
 
 half the width of the square. Use toothpick for handle and 
 peas for hubs. A cheap quality of collar button may be used 
 for hubs, passing them through the wagon box from the 
 inside, and then through the wheel. 
 
 MODEL V. SLEIGH WITH BOX. 
 
 Fold and cut the sleigh as indicated at Fig. 6, and the 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN TAPER. 
 
 27 
 
 box at Fig. 7. Pass the end of a piece of cord eight inches 
 long through the holes, and fasten. 
 
 \ 
 
 Fig. 6. Fig. 7. 
 
 MODEL VI. EGG BOX. 
 
 Out box as indicated at Fig. 8, and coyer at Fig. 9, using 
 one-inch semi-circular tablets for tracing thumb places. 
 
 Use for partitions pieces cut away from Figs. 6 and 7, and 
 cut as indicated at Fig. 10. 
 
 Fig. 8. 
 
 Fig. 9. 
 
 Model VI. Egg Box. 
 
 Fig. 10. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL VII. SHOPPING BAG. 
 
 Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 11, saving for handle 
 the piece cut away, and folding it in the middle lengthwise. 
 Cut and use one piece for handle, folding it lengthwise and 
 
 Model VII 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
 using double. In pasting bring the inside corners of outside 
 squares together and place the middle square inside these two, 
 with the ends of the handle between. 
 
 MODEL VIII. STOVE. 
 
 Use for this model three 
 squares of Uack paper 6x6 
 inches. 
 
 Model Vm. Stove. 
 
 ill 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 Fold and cut as indicated at Fig. 12 for body of the stove, 
 making lines for grate with a red lead pencil. Indicate, with 
 black pencil, the hinges and knobs on oven doors. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN 
 
 Cut and fold hearth as indicated at Fig. 13, showing 
 hinges and knobs on doors. Bring Fig. 12 into shape and 
 
 S 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 Fig. 14. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
 paste. Use Fig. 14 for the bottom of the stove, fastening it 
 onto the inside of front and back of stove, so as not to inter- 
 fere with the use of the oven. Place the hearth in position 
 and fasten, then open front doors. Cut and fold the pipe 
 as indicated at Fig. 15 and glue to the stove. 
 
 MODEL IX. TROLLEY CAR. 
 
 Cut as indicated at Fig. 
 16, cutting out for windows, 
 or the windows may be 
 indicated by pencil lines 
 and not cut out. Cut the 
 bottom of the car as indi- 
 cated at Fig. 17. Use tooth- 
 picks for axle and peas for 
 hubs, making wheels from 
 the piece cut away from 
 
 J 
 
 DDDDDDD 
 
 Model IX. 
 
 u<^c/ 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 JUfi 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Fig. 16, and the pole from the other waste piece, fastening 
 it to the car as indicated in the drawing. 
 
 t 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
 Fig. 20. 
 
 MODEL X. BED. 
 
 Two squares are needed for this model, using 
 for the legs the pieces cut away from previous 
 
 Fig. 19. 
 
 Cut and fold the body of the bed as indicated at Fig. 18, 
 making it three squares in length 
 and two in width. Fold the legs 
 as indicated at Fig. 19 and glue 
 body and legs to position. 
 
 Cut Fig. 20 into halves, as 
 indicated by full line, making the 
 headboard four squares in length 
 (before folding), and the foot- 
 board three squares. Now fold 
 both pieces across the width and 
 use these doubled pieces for the 
 head and footboard and glue to 
 place. Both these pieces may be 
 cut across the top, to any desired 
 Model x. Bed. shape. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN PAPER. 
 
 MODEL XI. WASHSTAND. 
 
 31 
 
 Fig. 21. 
 
 Fig. 22. 
 
 E 
 
 Fig. 23. 
 
 \ 
 
 \ 
 
 Model XI. Washstand. 
 
 Three squares are needed for 
 this model. 
 
 For the body, fold and cut as 
 indicated at Fig. 21. Bring laps 
 into position and glue to place. 
 
 Fold and cut two models as 
 indicated at Fig. 22. Glue into 
 shape, and stand the two oblong 
 boxes thus formed on end inside 
 the square box formed from Fig. 
 21. Locate the points for the 
 knobs and here place two round- 
 head paper fasteners. Shoe but- 
 tons may be used instead. Shape 
 the back as indicated at Fig. 2? 
 and glue to the body of the wast 
 stand. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 \ 
 
 MODEL XII. DRESSING TABLE. 
 
 Four squares are needed for this model. 
 
 Fold and cut the body as indicated at 
 Fig. 21, and the two drawers at Fig. 22. 
 X Glue to shape 
 
 and place the 
 oblong boxes 
 horizontally 
 insid e the 
 square box, 
 using paper 
 fasteners for 
 knobs. 
 
 For the 
 back, fold as 
 indicated at 
 
 si 
 
 I 
 
 \ 
 
 
 
 Fig. 24. 
 
 Model XII. 
 Dressing Table. 
 
 Fig. 24, and then turn one thickness down toward the front 
 from point X. This will form a square on its diagonal. Cut 
 away the middle portion of this square leaving about one-fourth 
 of an inch around the edge. This forms the width of the 
 frame. Inside this insert a square of tin foil to form the mirror. 
 
 MODEL XIII. GO CAET. 
 
 But one square is used for this. 
 Fold and cut as indicated in Fig. 25. 
 
 Fig. 25. 
 
 Model XIII. Go Cart. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IX PAPER. 
 
 33 
 
 Turn up the squares forming the back and glue the laps 
 into position. Crease the step into shape and add toothpick 
 for axle, using peas for hubs. Save the four squares, cut away 
 from one side, for the handle. Cut this through the middle, 
 lengthwise. Fold each piece through the middle, lengthwise, 
 join the two pieces, bend for the handle, and glue into posi- 
 tion. Use the squares cut from the corners in making the 
 wheels. 
 
 MODEL XIV. CEADLE. 
 
 Two squares are needed to form the 
 body of this model. Fold and cut two 
 forms as indicated at Fig. 26. Glue to 
 
 Model XIV. Cradle. 
 
 Fig. 26. 
 
 shape and stand one, on end, inside the other one. This will 
 form the hood. Variety may be given to the shape of the 
 k>dy of this model. For the rockers divide one six-inch 
 square into four smaller ones, and on one of these trace a 
 circle, using a two-inch tablet. Cut to line, fold through 
 the middle, and cut. It will be necessary to cut away that 
 portion of the rocker touching the floor in order to have the 
 cradle stand upright. 
 
CONSTRUCTION BY MEASUKEMENT. 
 
 ADVANCED FIEST. 
 
 Second School Year. 
 
 After having worked out many lessons in paper construc- 
 tion by folding, the pupil is led to pattern-making with the 
 use of the ruler, and here the lap is introduced. As yet, 
 however, we keep this troublesome feature of construction a? 
 large as possible, since it is in the execution of fine details 
 that the child becomes discouraged. Th6se models have been 
 worked out by pupils in the advanced first year. By previous 
 training they have become 
 familiar with the use of 
 the ruler and are able 
 to draw lines to given 
 lengths and lay out simple 
 surface coverings. The 
 forms, being made from 
 drawing paper, are easily 
 folded on the line, no 
 scoring being necessary, 
 as is the case when using 
 bristol board. 
 
 All patterns are based 
 on the square, and are 
 purposely made very simple in order to introduce decoration, 
 using water colors or colored lead pencils. The squares vary 
 in size from 1^ to 2 inches. The rulers are marked in one 
 inch and half -inch spaces. 
 
 In Fig. 1 the squares are three inches across. The 
 rulers are 'placed on the edge of the paper and the spaces 
 marked here, with black pencil, as a finer dot may be made 
 with the black than with a colored one. The cross lines are 
 drawn with the colored pencil and the nine squares needed are 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
CONSTRUCTION BY HBA8UBBMENT. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
 now cut away. Cut away 
 
 the triangles as indicated 
 in the drawing and deco- 
 rate with diagonal lines. 
 
 In Fig. 2 the squares 
 are two inches in size. 
 Proceed as in Fig. 1 and 
 decorate as in the drawing. 
 
 In Fig. 3 the size of 
 the square is one and one- 
 half inches. Proceed as 
 in Fig. 1. For decora- 
 tion add the diagonal lines 
 and at the points of inter- 
 section cross with a line 
 extending one-half inch 
 in each direction. 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
8G 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Fig. 4 is, when completed, like Fig. 1, but differs in 
 manner of development. Cut in on the heavy lines. Deco- 
 rate as indicated in the drawing. 
 
 \ / 
 / % 
 
 ^7" / 
 
 s \ 
 
 \ / 
 
 / \ 
 
 \ / 
 / N 
 
 /tad* 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 Fig. 5. Size of squares, 2 inches by 2 inches. Cut in 
 on heavy lines. Suggestion for decoration is given in tie 
 drawing. 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
 Fig. 6. Size of squares, 3 inches by 3 inches. Cut in 
 on heavy lines for the bottom, and the cover. De jorate as 
 suggested in the drawing. 
 
 Fig. 7. Size of squares, 2 inches "by 2 inches. Cut in 
 on heavy lines to form the cover and the, Bottom. {Sugges- 
 tion for decoration given in the drawing, 
 
1!V MEASUREMENT. 
 
 Fig 6. 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 
 / \ 
 
 /_ \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 \ 7 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ 7 
 
 \ 7 
 
 
 / N 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ 7 
 
 V / 
 
 < 
 
 / V 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 N 
 
 5- j 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 \ / 
 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 / \ 
 
 / ,\ 
 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
 When tliest? jiiodels (VI. and VII.) are used for candy 
 boxes, they &re made more attractive by the addition of a 
 ribbon band. 
 
FREE WEAVING. 
 
 Series II. 
 ADVANCED FIRST GRADE. 
 
 Second School Year. 
 
 Having previously worked out Series I. , the pupils have 
 acquired a deftness of hand which will enable them to take up 
 these more difficult models. Pupils, to whom the work is 
 new, often enter at the beginning of a school year, and it is 
 always well to review the "ground forms" or foundation 
 work given in Series I. Review also the book marker. 
 
 In this series use book-cover paper in two contrasting 
 colors, or in tint and shade of the same color. Have the 
 paper cut into strips one-half inch wide. 
 
 MODEL I. PICTURE FRAME. 
 
 This frame is but two strips in width, but at the end of 
 the series it may again be introduced four or six strips wide. 
 
 Fold four strips of each color through the middle across 
 the width. Lay the light strips horizontally across the desk, 
 with the open and closed ends alternating at the sides. With 
 the dark strips proceed to weave under and over, leaving all 
 ends long, i.e., do not draw up any ends. This will form a 
 square with long ends on all sides as in Detail I. Now sepa- 
 rate these squares so that four will come on each corner with 
 a loose band between. The distance between each set of 
 squares should be but little over three inches. The ends may 
 now be drawn so that the closed end is nearly to the outside 
 edge of the frame. 
 
 It will now be observed that the light and dark strips are 
 on opposite sides of the frame. Take twelve pieces of each 
 color and fold crosswise through the middle. Weave these in 
 and out the space between the corner squares, placing the dark 
 on the side with the light strips and vice versa. Now tighten 
 

 ijcail T. Picture Frans. 
 
40 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 all the strips, being careful to not pull the opening for the 
 picture out of square. Glue cardboard to the back of this 
 frame, leaving an opening at the top into which the picture 
 is to be slipped. An easel back may be provided, or a cord 
 used for hanging. The back may be so glued on as to permit 
 the hanging of the frame with the square on its diagonal. 
 
 Detail II. Picture Frame. 
 
FREE WEAVING. 41 
 
 Oblong frames may be made in the same manner by insert- 
 ing more strips on the sides than across the top. 
 
 Model I. Picture Frame. 
 SQUARE AND OBLONG MATS. 
 
 Mats of different sizes and shapes may be woven and util- 
 ized in various ways. Either by using them for lamp-mats, 
 etc. , or for mounts for calendars, thermometers, blotters, etc. 
 For the square mats, have all paper strips of the same length. 
 
 Difficulty will at first be experienced in having the pupils 
 keep the strips from slipping out of position, while the work 
 
42 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 is being started, but this is soon overcome, and as so little 
 preparation of materials is required, this form of manual train- 
 ing may be used for busy work. 
 
 CORNUCOPIA. 
 
 Weave a mat ten squares each way. Perforate two adja- 
 cent edges. Bring the opposite corners together, and lace with 
 narrow ribbon, finishing with a bow. 
 
 Double cornucopias may be formed by weaving an oblong 
 mat, twenty squares by ten, and bringing both lower corners 
 up to the middle of the top edge; fasten in position. 
 
 BLOTTER BACK. 
 
 Weave an oblong mat ten squares long and four or six wide. 
 Cut an oblong piece of blotting paper, in size one-half inch 
 shorter and one-half inch narrower than the woven mat, to 
 which it should be glued. 
 
 CALENDAR BACK. 
 
 Weave a square mat six squares by six, and fasten the cal- 
 endar to this, choosing such size as will leave a margin of one 
 square all around the calendar. Oblong mats may be woven 
 to fit oblong calendar pads. 
 
 THERMOMETER BACK. 
 
 Weave an oblong mat four squares wide and six squares 
 long, using paper strips one-half inch wide. Fasten the ther- 
 mometer to this back by sewing through the holes, and, if 
 desired, a bow may be tied here. 
 
 COVER FOR NEEDLE BOOK. 
 
 Weave an oblong mat, making it eight one-half inch strips, 
 or four one-inch strips wide, and twelve one-half inch, or six 
 one-inch strips in length. Fold through the middle across the 
 width. Cut the leaves from white flannel and have the edges 
 notched. Open the cover, lay the leaves in position and per- 
 forate in three places. Pass a narrow ribbon through these 
 holes, bring both ends to the outside, and here form a bow. 
 
FREE WEAVING. 43 
 
 COVER FOB MEMORANDUM BOOK. 
 
 Weave an oblong mat, making it twelve squares in length 
 and eight in width. 
 
 Fold this through the middle, across the width to form the 
 cover. 
 
 Cut, for the leaves, oblong pieces of white paper, in width 
 one-half inch narrower and in length one-half inch shorter than 
 the oblong forming the cover. Fold these and place inside the 
 cover. Now perforate this book in two. places, pass a narrow 
 ribbon through these perforations, and tie. Attach a lead pen- 
 cil to one end of the ribbon used for binding the back. All 
 short pieces of lead pencils may be collected from time to time 
 and saved for this purpose. 
 
 BOXES. 
 
 Many shapes and sizes may be given to these woven boxes, 
 and firmness, also, if a heavy quality of paper is used. The 
 shapes are formed as in the models for more elementary work, 
 in previous pages. The covers may be woven on, or else made 
 separate and the loose ends fastened into the back edge of the 
 box. When the box is large, it will be found much easier to 
 construct it, if both the bottom and the cover are made sepa- 
 rate. If the bottom is woven separately, it is fastened into 
 place by passing the loose ends of the bottom edge of the piece 
 forming the sides of the box into the edges of the mat forming 
 the bottom. 
 
 Handkerchief and glove boxes may be made very durable 
 by fitting an inner box of heavy cardboard, or oak tag, and 
 gluing the woven outside box to this one. The inner box may 
 be painted, so as to harmonize with the colors of the outside. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 Second Year. 
 Third School Year. 
 
 The following models may be constructed in cardboard, 
 oak tag, or Essex bristol. The latter comes in a variety 
 of artistic and pleasing colors, and the light weight is quite 
 as inexpensive and much more attractive than oak tag. 
 There is no saving in expense, but a great waste of the teach- 
 er's time, if she attempts to cut the material for each lesson, 
 to the size designated in the following directions. 
 
 The material is usually ordered for a year's work, and of 
 one size throughout. In all these models a saving will be 
 effected if, placing the ruler along the top and bottom edge of 
 the paper, the spaces for the vertical lines are dictated, these 
 lines drawn, and the cardboard be now cut to the exact 
 width required. 
 
 Now locate on the edges of this piece the spaces for the 
 horizontal lines, and after drawing these lines, cut the paper 
 to the exact length. 
 
 The teacher having placed the drawing on the board as 
 she dictated to the class, now indicates the parts to be cut 
 away, by using colored crayon; thus making the details less 
 confusing. The pieces cut away will often be large enough 
 to use for another model. 
 
 Le Page's glue is used for joining all models constructed of 
 any material heavier than paper. 
 
 As the pupils come to see how folding boxes may be con- 
 structed they become intensely interested, and specimens of 
 all shapes and sizes are brought in, with the request, "May 
 we make this ? " 
 
 A quantity of oak tag may be kept where the pupils have 
 free access to it, and scissors and glue conveniently near. 
 For "busy work" nothing can be better than to encourage 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 45 
 
 the developing of any box brought in, always insisting that 
 the drawing be made by measurement, and not traced. For 
 the pupils who cannot work unaided, the teacher should 
 mount, on a large sheet of heavy cardboard, working draw- 
 ings of different models, and also fasten to this, by a piece of 
 cord, two models of each drawing; glue one to shape, and 
 leave the other flat. Hang these sufficiently low, so the 
 pupils can handle the models, and study the drawing. 
 
 MODEL I. BUTTON BOX. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol, six inches square. Draw the diag- 
 onal lines. Place a dot on each line, one inch from the point 
 of intersection. Draw lines connecting these dots. The 
 
 square thus formed be- 
 comes the bottom of 
 the box. To form the 
 sides of the box, find 
 the middle of the up- 
 per edge; from this 
 point measure one and 
 one-half inches to the 
 right and left, and here 
 place a dot, marking 
 these points A and B, 
 as in Fig. 1. Draw lines 
 from these points to the corresponding corners of the inner 
 square. Repeat this drawing on the other three sides. To form 
 the laps, measure on the upper edge, three-eighths of an inch 
 from the points marked A and B, and from the corresponding 
 corners of the inner square, measure three-quarters of an inch 
 on the diagonal lines. Connect these points with opposite 
 ones. As laps are needed on two sides only, lines similar to 
 these are drawn on the opposite side of the box. 
 
 Now cut to line, and cut off the upper corners of the lap. 
 This may be done free hand, or by measuring down three- 
 
 Model I. Button Box. 
 
46 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 eighths of an inch, and drawing lines to A and B. Cut to 
 these lines. Before folding, it will be necessary to score all 
 lines forming edges. This is done by using the sharp point 
 of the scissors, a knife or a pin. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 MODEL II. TENT. 
 
 Material. Oak tag; size, 12 in. x 12 in. 
 
 Place the tag board with two edges parallel to the edge of 
 the desk. 
 
 Placing the ruler along the upper edge of the paper, meas- 
 ure to the right one and one-quarter inches, and here place a 
 dot, marking this point A, as in Fig. 2. Repeat this at the 
 lower edge, and draw lines connecting these two dots. From 
 each of these dots measure to the right four inches, and again 
 draw connecting lines. Locate point B. From the ends of 
 this line, measure two and one-half inches to the right, draw 
 
a. 
 
 Fig. 2. 
 
48 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Model H. Tent. 
 
 connecting line, and cut to this line. Lay aside the piece cut 
 away and place the drawing on the desk in the same position 
 as before. From the upper left corner, measure down three- 
 fourths of an inch, place a do', and draw a line from this dot 
 to A. From the lower left corner measure up three-fourths of 
 an inch and draw a line from this point down to the end of the 
 line opposite point A. Cut to these lines. From the upper 
 right corner, measure down one and one-fourth inches, place 
 a dot, and draw a line from this dot to point B. From the 
 lower right corner, measure up one and one-fourth inches, 
 place a dot, and draw a line to end of the line opposite point 
 B. Cut to these' lines. Locate points C, D, E and F. From 
 points A and B, measure down five and three-fourths inches 
 and draw a line across, Now draw a line from the ends of this 
 line to points C, D, E and F. Cut to these lines and score all 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 49 
 
 remaining lines. Fold for the body of the tent. For the floor 
 of the tent use the piece cut away, and place it with its long 
 edges parallel with the front edge of the desk. From the upper 
 left corner, measure one-half inch to the right, and place a dot. 
 Eepeat this at the lower left corner and draw a line across. 
 
 K 
 
 e 
 
 <s 
 
 I 
 
 Fig. 3. 
 
 From the ends of this line, measure to the right five and three- 
 fourths inches, and draw a line across. See Fig. 3. From 
 the ends of this line, locate points one-half inch to the right and 
 draw a line across. Cut to this line. Placing the drawing on 
 the desk in the same position as before, measure down four 
 inches from the upper right and upper left corners, place dots 
 and draw a line across. Cut to this line. Score all remaining 
 lines, fold, and glue into position. 
 
 MODEL III. COIK BAG. 
 
 Material. Oak tag ; size, 7 in. x 7 in. 
 
 Place the paper with its short edges parallel with the front 
 edge of the desk. From the upper and lower left corners 
 measure to the right one inch, place dots and draw a line 
 across. See Fig. 4. From the ends of this line measure twc 
 inches to the right and draw a line across. Measure one and one- 
 half inches to the right from the ends of this line, draw a line 
 
50 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING 
 
 Model III- SoinBag. 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 
 across and cut to this line. From the 
 two upper corners measure down one 
 and one-half inches, place dots and draw 
 a line across. Cut away the two corner 
 oblongs thus formed, lay a two-inch 
 semi-circular tablet with its straight 
 edge coinciding with line A, and trace 
 around the curved edge, using a sharp 
 lead pencil. Cut to this curved line. 
 From the two upper outside corners 
 measure down four inches and draw a 
 line across. From the ends of this line 
 measure down one inch, draw a line 
 across and cut to this line. Out away 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 51 
 
 the square formed in lower left corner and the oblong formed 
 in lower right. Locate points 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6. From point 1 
 measure down one-fourth inch, draw a line to the inner upper 
 corner and cut to this line. From points 3 and 4 measure up 
 one-fourth inch, draw lines down to the inner corner and cut 
 to these lines. From point 2 measure down three-eighths of 
 an inch, draw a line up to the inner corner and cut to this line. 
 Measure one-eighth of an inch to the right of point 5 and to 
 the left of point 6. Draw lines to the upper corners, cut to 
 these lines, score all remaining lines, fold and glue into shape. 
 
 Model IV. Card Case. 
 MODEL IV. CAED CASE. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; size, 11 in. x 8 in. 
 
 Place the paper with its long edges parallel with the edge 
 of the desk. Measure down one inch from the upper right 
 and upper left corners, and here place dots on the edge of the 
 paper. Draw a line connecting these dots. See Fig. 5. From 
 both ends of this line, measure down five inches, place dots, and 
 draw connecting line. Measure down one inch from both ends 
 of this line, place dots, draw connecting line, and cut to this line. 
 
 From the upper and lower left corners, measure to the 
 right two inches, place dots, and draw connecting line. Three 
 inches to the right of this line, draw another line, and again 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 a second line, at the same distance, three inches. Locate points 
 two inches to the right of the last line, draw connecting line, 
 
 I 
 
 00 
 
 Fig. 5. 
 
CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 c 
 
 *-, I 
 
 Fig. 
 
 and cut to this line. 
 Now cut away, from 
 both sides, the oblongs 
 three inches by one 
 inch. There are now 
 four projecting pieces , 
 size, two inches by one 
 inch. 
 
 Measure in one-half 
 inch on each outside 
 corner of all four, and 
 draw lines to the other 
 corners, as shown in 
 the drawing. Cut to 
 these lines, score all 
 remaining lines, fold, 
 and glue to position. 
 
 MODEL V. LETTEB 
 
 CASE. 
 
 Material. Essex 
 bristol; size, 12 in. x 5 
 in. Place the paper 
 with its long edge par- 
 allel with the edge of 
 the desk. From the 
 upper left and upper 
 right corner measure 
 down three inches and 
 draw a line across. 
 Erom both ends of this 
 line measure down one 
 inch, draw a line 
 across, and cut to this 
 line. From the upper 
 
54 
 
 RAPHTA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 and lower left corners measure one inch to the right and 
 draw a line across. See Fig. 6. Four inches to the right of 
 this line draw another one. Again, one inch to the right of 
 this one, and now four inches to the right of this last line. 
 Again measure one inch to the right, draw a line, and cut to 
 this line. From the lower edge cut up as indicated by the 
 heavy lines in the drawing. 
 
 Model V. Letter Case. 
 
 Find the middle of the upper edge of each four-inch 
 space, and place a dot. Place a one-inch semi-circular tablet 
 with the middle of its straight edge at this dot. Using a 
 sharp pointed pencil, trace around this tablet. Cut to this 
 circular line. Score all remaining lines, fold and glue to 
 position. 
 
 MODEL VI. CARD HOLDER. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; size, 10 in. x6 in. Place the 
 paper with its short edge parallel with the edge of the desk. 
 From the upper and lower left corners, measure to the right 
 one and one-quarter inches, and draw a line across. See Fig. 7. 
 Three inches to the right of this line draw another one, and 
 again one and one-fourth inches to the right of this last line, 
 draw another one, and cut to this line. From the upper cor- 
 
CARDBOARD CONSTRUCTION. 55 
 
 ners measure down three inches and draw a light line across. 
 Place another line two and three-fourths inches below this 
 line, and again three inches lower down draw another one. 
 Cut to this last line. Cut the oblong spaces away from the 
 upper corners. Measure down one and one-half inches from 
 the upper corners of the projecting piece, and here place 
 
 Fig. 7. 
 
RAPfllA AND HEED WEAVING. 
 
 dots. Find the middle of 
 its upper edge, and from 
 here draw lines to the 
 dots just located, and cut 
 to these lines. From the 
 outside corners A and B, 
 draw lines to C and D. 
 Cut to these lines. Score 
 all remaining lines, ex- 
 cepting the light one 
 crossing the back of the 
 case. Perforate the hole 
 for hanging, fold and 
 glue. 
 
 MODEL VII. PHOTO- 
 GRAPH HOLDER. 
 
 Material. Bristol 
 board; size, 11 in. x 10 in. 
 Lay the paper with its 
 Model vi. card Holder. long edges parallel with 
 
 the edge of the desk. 
 
 From the upper and lower left corners, measure to the right 
 two and one-half inches, and draw a line. See Fig. 8. Five 
 inches to the right of this li AQ draw another ; measure again 
 two inches and one-half to the right, draw a line and cut to it. 
 From the upper corners, measure down four inches, and 
 draw a line across. 
 
 Two inches and one-half below this draw another line, and 
 again, two and one-half inches, another one. Cut to this line. 
 Measure, for one-quarter inch lap, to the left of line C-E, and 
 to the right of line D-F. Cut to these lines, and shape the 
 lap as indicated on drawing. 
 
 From the upper corners, measure down one and one-half 
 inches, and place dots on the edges of the paper. From these 
 
CARD60ARD CONSTRUCTION. 
 
 dots, draw lines to points A and B, and cut to these lines. 
 Find the middle of the upper edge (the five-inch space), and 
 here form the semi-circular opening. Repeat this at the lower 
 edge. Score all remaining lines, fold, and glue to position. 
 
 Model VII. Photograph Holder. 
 MODEL YIII. WALL LETTER CASE. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; size, 12 in. x 7 in. 
 
 Place the paper with its long edge parallel with the edge 
 of the desk. Measure in on top and bottom edge, four inches, 
 and draw a line across. See Fig. 9. Form another space 
 of one and one-half inches, another of four inches, and still 
 another of one and one-half inches in width. One-quarter 
 inch to the right of this last line, draw another one, and cut 
 to this line. From the upper corners, measure down one and 
 one-half inches on the edge of the paper, and draw a line 
 across. Three inches below this line draw another one, and 
 again, one and one-half inches, another one. Cut to this line. 
 
 Cut away the oblongs in the upper corner, leaving the pro- 
 jecting piece as indicated. Find the middle of this upper 
 
58 RAtHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 edge, and draw lines from this point to a point one-half inch 
 below each corner. Cut to these lines. 
 
 From points A and B, measure down one-quarter inch, 
 draw line and cut for laps. Shape as indicated. Score all 
 remaining lines, except the line across the back. Fold to posi- 
 tion and glue. Perforate the hole for hanging. 
 
 MODEL IX. EGG BOX. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; two pieces, size, 11 in. x 9 in. 
 
 Lay the paper with its long edge parallel with the edge of 
 the desk. From the upper corners measure down two inches 
 and draw a line across. Place another line four inches below 
 
i 
 
 1 
 
 X 
 
 Fig 9. 
 
60 RAfHlA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 this and still another one two inches below. Cut to this line. 
 Two inches to the right of the left edge draw a line, another 
 one four inches, and still another one two inches. Cut to 
 this line. Draw the diagonals of the corner squares. Cut 
 out the triangles as indicated. The remaining ones form the 
 laps. See Fig. 10. 
 
 Model VIII. Wall Letter Case. 
 
 Eepeat this drawing on the second piece. Form the par- 
 titions from the piece cut away, making a lap one-half inch 
 wide, and fitting as indicated by the heavy lines in Figs. 12 
 and 13, cutting in here to the depth of one inch. Locate 
 the semi-circular openings in the coyer as indicated at Fig. 
 11. Score all remaining lines, fold, glue into position, and 
 then add the partitions. 
 
62 
 
 RAl'IIIA AND REED WEAViXO. 
 
 Model IX. Egg Box. 
 
 Fig. 12. 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
EEED WEAVING. 
 
 Second Year. 
 Third School Year. 
 
 This line of manual work follows the weaving with papei 
 strips, and is here introduced into the second grade (third 
 school year). The course consists of the weaving of mats, 
 trays, baskets of various shapes and sizes, and a complete set 
 of doll's furniture, the making of which is interesting to boys 
 and girls alike. 
 
 The educational value of this form of manual training can 
 not be overestimated. First, it is pleasing to the child, and 
 thus the desire to create is stimulated and the inventive facul- 
 ties cultivated. Symmetry, form and proportion are taught ? 
 and both hand and eye trained to accuracy, while the observ- 
 ing faculties are aroused to notice designs and shapes in various 
 manufactured articles. 
 
 Tools. Scissors, knife, 1 pair flat pliers, 1 small hammer, 
 
 1 package one-inch No. 18 brads, 1 four-inch scratch awl, and 
 a small iron vise, which, while not absolutely necessary, will 
 prove of great convenience in holding the work for fastening. 
 
 Materials. Round reed, Nos. 2, 3 and 4; split reed, Nos. 
 2, 3, 4, 6; flat and oval pith, sizes, 5, 5j4 and 6^, fine cane 
 (for binding) , light linen cord and raphia. 
 
 LESSON I. FOUNDATION WOEK WITH COED. 
 
 As it is difficult for children to manage the weaving, 
 when starting with round reed, the first lesson is given with 
 cord as a weaving strand. For the foundation rays, use JSTo. 
 
 2 reed. Give each pupil eight pieces seven inches long, one 
 piece four inches long, and two yards of cord. Divide the 
 strands into/owrs, and cross at right angles, placing the ones 
 
64 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 passing from left to right on top the other four, being careful 
 to cross at centers, and hold the work firmly between the thumb 
 and fore finger of the left hand. 
 
 Designp for a Border. No. 1. 
 
REED WEAVING. 65 
 
 Hold the cord as a weaver in the right hand, leaving a free 
 and the length of the extended arms. Pass this weaver over 
 the four rays on the left (No. 1), then under the upper four 
 (No. 2), over No. 3, under No. 4, and now over the cord. 
 At this stage, insert the four-inch strand of reed, laying it 
 alongside the cord so as to give firmness to this ray, which we 
 treat as four. Now proceed under and over, around and around 
 the mat, care being taken to hold the weaver firmly between 
 the thumb and fore finger of right hand, and close up to the 
 ray around which the cord is passing. Use the fingers of the 
 left hand to turn the work and at the same time to press down 
 the weaver between the rays. 
 
 Have the child first master this simple form of weaving 
 with undivided rays before the division into twos is made. 
 
 One great advantage in starting with cord is that the work 
 may be unwound and the material used over and over again 
 until the pupil has learned to start his own work and weave 
 through this step. 
 
 Circular Mat. Fig. 1. 
 
66 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL II. SMALL CIRCULAR MAT. 
 
 Materials. Eight strands round reed (No. 2), seven inches 
 long, and one strand four inches long, for foundations; one 
 long strand (No. 2 reed) for weaving. 
 
 Before making this model, it will be necessary to soak the 
 reed in water (warm preferred), for about two hours. This 
 renders it as pliable as cord. 
 
 Start as in Fig. 1, inserting the short strand beside the 
 projecting end of the weaving strand. Weave under four and 
 over four twice around, then proceed to divide the rays into 
 twos, beginning the division just after passing the inserted 
 strand, and weave over two and under two. Be careful to keep 
 equal space between the foundation rays (so as to secure sym- 
 metrical work), and also to keep the weaving thread down 
 close to the center with the fingers of the left hand, and, by 
 constantly turning the work, follow closely the weaving thread, 
 which is to be held in the right hand close to the work. It is 
 very necessary to emphasize these points. After weaving a 
 mat three inches in diameter, cut the ends of the foundation 
 rays to even lengths, and insert the scratch awl alongside each 
 foundation ray, and into the opening thus secured, pass the 
 
 Division of rays into ones. Fig. 2. 
 
REED WEAVING. 
 
 67 
 
 ends, by twos, of the foundation rays; this secures the work, 
 and makes a finish by forming loops. Flatten the mat before 
 allowing to dry. 
 
 MODEL III. TEAT. 
 
 Materials. Kound reed No. 2; eight pieces twelve inches 
 and one piece seven inches long for foundation rays ; two long 
 strands for weavers. 
 
 When weaving with one strand it is necessary to have an 
 uneven number of rays for the foundation. After starting 
 the center, as in Lesson L, the seven-inch piece is inserted 
 alongside the extended end of the weaving strand, and the 
 weaving proceeds under four, over four, three times around. 
 Then make the division by twos. (See Fig. 2). Just 
 after passing the inserted strand and keeping the work flat, 
 weave four times around. Now, while holding the work in 
 both hands, press the thumbs outward and into the center of 
 the mat, keeping the end of the weaving strand toward the 
 right, and the ends of the rays away from the body ; gradu- 
 ally bend them inward toward center of the bottom, thus 
 obtaining the desired shape. It is well to keep the first 
 attempts at "shaping" quite shallow. 
 
 From this point divide the rays into ones (see Fig. 2), and 
 here cut away the end of weaving strand left extended at 
 point of insertion of the seven-inch piece; this is necessary 
 if an uneven number of rays is required. 
 
 Border 
 
08 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 When the end of the first weaver is reached the second 
 one may be spliced on by laying the end of the new weaving 
 strand alongside the end of the first. 
 
 Do not place the ends of weavers down by the side of the 
 foundation rays, until the work is complete, when the final 
 end may be passed down, in order to close the work. Finish 
 with border II. 
 
 BOEDER II. 
 
 After trimming the ends of the rays to even lengths 
 (about three inches), pass the end of each standing strand 
 behind the first one to the left, in front of the second one, 
 and down by the side of this one. It may be slipped down 
 beside the second one before passing in front of it, if pre- 
 ferred. 
 
 MODEL IV. SMALL BASKET. 
 
 Materials. Round reed, Nos. 2 and 3 ; three long strands 
 No. 2 reed for weavers; eight pieces fourteen, and one piece 
 eight inches long (No. 3 reed), for foundation. 
 
 After starting as in Lesson I., and making division of 
 twos, as in Model II., weave over two and under two until the 
 bottom is two and one-half inches in diameter. 
 
 Now turn up the sides of the basket sharply and continue 
 to weave to end of strand. Finish with border I. As it is 
 desirable to have the weaving strands soft and pliable, a pail 
 of warm water should be standing in the class-room and the, 
 waving strands placed in this until needed, 
 
HEED WEAVING. 
 
 In all these simple lessons the shaping is done entirely by 
 the hand, thus training the hand to deftness and exactness, 
 and the eye to symmetry and proportion. 
 
 5- 
 
 BORDER III. 
 
 Pass ray No. 1 behind Nos. 3 and 4 and down by the side 
 of No. 5. Pass No. 2 behind Nos. 3 and 4 and down by the 
 side of No. 6 and continue until the last ray is passed down. 
 
 I 5- ^ .3 A 
 
 BORDER IV. 
 
 Take any standing ray as No. 1, pass it behind No. 2, in- 
 front of No. 3 and then down into the basket. Now pass 
 No. 2 behind No. 3, in front of No. 4, and down into the 
 basket, leaving these two loops open in order to receive the 
 last two ends. Press the other loops down flat, and when 
 completed trim the ends to even lengths, leaving about one 
 inch in length inside the basket. Length of spoke for 
 border, four inches. 
 
70 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 BORDER V. 
 
 Take any ray as No. 1, pass it behind No. 2 and No. 3, in 
 front of Nos. 4 and 5, and then down inside the basket. 
 Then pass No. 2 behind Nos. 3 and 4, in front of Nos. 5 and 
 6, and down inside the basket. Continue to the end, weaving 
 the last two into the loops formed by Nos. 1 and 2. Length 
 of spoke for border, six inches. 
 
 BORDER VI. 
 
 Length of rays needed for this border, nine inches. 
 Place ray No. 1 behind No. 2, and bring the end down under 
 the thumb of the left hand. Then lay No. 2 behind No. 3. 
 
 Border VI. Detail No. 1. 
 
REED WEAVING. 
 
 71 
 
 Now go back to No. 1 and pass it before No. 3, and behind 
 No. 4, bringing the end down in front of the basket, and hold 
 it here, while laying No. 3 (which is the first one standing) 
 
 6 * 
 
 Border VI. Detail No. 2. 
 
 Border VI. Detail No. 3. 
 
72 
 
 KAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 down alongside of No. 1. Now take No. 2 and pass it in 
 front of No. 4 and behind No. 5, and lay No. 4 (still stand- 
 ing) behind No. 5, and down beside No. 2. It will now be 
 observed that the ends of the reeds are forming sets of twos. 
 Now begin with the first pair, and take the longer of the two 
 reeds, and pass it in front of No. 5 and behind No. 6, and 
 down in front ; then turn No. 5 down behind No. 6 and 
 alongside the end just turned down. Continue in this man- 
 ner until but one end is standing, when we are ready to close 
 the border. Now take the longer one of the last two and 
 place it in front of No. 1 (which was the first spoke used), 
 and bring the end out in front under No. 2. Take the longer 
 end of the set of twos and place it in front of No. 2, and 
 bring this end out in front under No. 3. The ends may 
 now be cut off in front, or woven back and cut off on the 
 inside of the basket. 
 
 / 2 3 t 6- 6 
 
 Border VI. Detail No. 4. 
 USE OF TWO WEAVEES. 
 
 The entire depth of the sides of a basket may be woven with 
 two weavers, or this style may be used at the bottom of the 
 basket, where the spokes are turned up. It also adds to the 
 appearance of the basket if two or three rows, using two 
 weavers, are inserted just after braided rush or straw has been 
 used. 
 
 To work with two weavers, one end of each is inserted 
 behind two successive rays, or spokes, as at A, then each, in 
 
REED WEAVING 
 
 73 
 
 Use of Two Weavers. 
 
 turn, is brought in front of one and behind the next one, 
 indicated in the drawing. 
 
 Use of Three Weavers. 
 
 USE OF THEEE WEAVERS. 
 
 Insert three single weavers, behind three successive spokes, 
 as at A and B, and place each, in turn, in front of the next 
 two rays, and behind the third. This style of weaving is used 
 especially to strengthen the work at the point of turning up 
 for the sides, where it not only hides the ends of any additional 
 rays added at this point, but it strengthens the basket. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Double Weaving. 
 DOUBLE WEAVING. 
 
 An effective style of weaving may be worked by using an 
 even number of rays, and passing, with a single weaving strand, 
 under one, over one, two or three times around, and then alter- 
 nate for another two or three rows. This alternation must 
 always be made on the under side, and is effected by passing 
 under two rays, and then on, over one and under one. 
 
 This is most effective when the spokes are double or treble, 
 according to the number of rows used before the change is 
 made. If, in order to make the bottom of the basket of suffi- 
 cient strength and size, a division of ones has been made, the 
 extra ray (for additional spokes) may be added at the point 
 
 Triple Weaving. 
 
Flower Basket. 
 
AtfD REED 
 
 of turning up the rays for the sides, and here working in three 
 rows of triple weaving (three weavers) , and then proceed with 
 the single weaver two or three times around. 
 
 FLOWEK BASKET. 
 
 For the foundation use No. 4 reed, eight strands twenty- 
 seven and one strand fourteen inches in length. Use No. 2 
 reed for the weavers. Begin the division of twos immediately 
 after fastening the center. As the lower part of this basket is 
 not more than one inch in diameter at the base, it is necessary 
 to begin to form this part by turning back the rays at the be- 
 ginning of the weaving. When the elongated part is the desired 
 length, the division of ones is made, and after weaving but once 
 around, an extra spoke is inserted alongside each single one. 
 This is done so as to give solidity to the basket, and also to 
 make a heavier border than is possible with single spokes. 
 The sides are now turned outward and then upward. When 
 the basket is the desired size, the ends of the spokes should be 
 dampened and then turned at right angles with the basket, 
 and here finish with border No. 3. This produces aflat finish 
 to the border. The handle is formed by inserting a piece of 
 No. 4 reed into the sides of the basket, and upon this, twisting 
 back and forth, a length of No. 2 reed, until the foundation 
 is hidden and a rope-like appearance is given to the handle. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 THIED YEAR. 
 
 Fourth School Year. 
 MODEL I. BILL HOLDER. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; size, 12 in. x 9 in. 
 
 Place the paper with its long edges parallel with the edge 
 
 of the desk. Lay off the vertical lines, forming the spaces, 
 
 one-quarter inch, two inches, three and one-half inches, two 
 
 inches and three and one-half inches. Cut to the last line. 
 
 Prom the upper cor- 
 ners, measure down 
 two and one -half 
 inches, draw a line, 
 and from here meas- 
 ure down three and 
 one-half inches, 
 again draw a line, 
 and from here meas- 
 ure two inches, and, 
 again, one -quarter 
 inch, draw lines and 
 cut to the last one. 
 See Fig. 1. 
 
 From points A 
 and B measure one- 
 half inch, place dots 
 and draw lines to 
 points C and D, as 
 shown in the draw- 
 tog. Ottt away all 
 
 Model I. 
 
78 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 waste across the top. Now locate points E and F, and draw 
 in the lines forming the laps. Score all lines, excepting the 
 line C-D. Fold into shape and glue. 
 
 * 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 MODEL II. COMB CASE. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol ; size 8 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper left corner proceed to lay off the vertical 
 spaces, two, three and one-half, and two inches wide. See 
 Fig. 2. From the two upper corners measure down and lay 
 off the horizontal spaces two, two, one, ' and two and one- 
 fourth inches wide. Cut to the last line. Cut the squares 
 away from the upper corners. Measuring in one inch and 
 down one-half inch, draw lines and cut off the corners of the 
 projecting piece, as shown in the drawings. From points A 
 and B measure out one inch, place dots, and draw lines from 
 these dots to the upper corners. Cut to these lines. From 
 
 Fig. 
 
80 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 points A and B lay out the one- quarter-inch laps. Cut to 
 these lines and shape as indicated. Score all lines excepting 
 the one across the back. Fold into shape and glue. 
 
 Model II. Comb Case. 
 MODEL III. CORNER BRACKET. 
 
 Material. Essex bris- 
 tol; size, 11 in. x 7 in. 
 
 Place the paper with 
 its short edge parallel 
 with the edge of the desk. 
 Find the middle of the 
 upper and lower edges 
 and draw a line across. 
 Measure three inches 
 down from the upper cor- 
 ner and draw a line across. 
 From the point of inter- 
 section of the two lines 
 comer Bracket, measure three inches to 
 
a 
 
82 
 
 EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 the right and left, place dots, and draw lines from these dots 
 to point A. See Fig. 3. Cut to these lines and cut in on 
 line A-B. From B measure down six inches, place a dot, and 
 draw lines from this dot to the ends of line C-D. Score the 
 remaining lines and score through the center line. Measure 
 one inch down from D and up from E. Locate dots and cut 
 the curve from these points. 
 
 MODEL IV. CANDY BOX. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol ; size, 12 in. x 8 in. 
 
 Place the paper with its short edge parallel with the edge 
 of the desk. From the upper corners measure down and lay 
 off the horizontal spaces, viz. : three, one and one-half, three, 
 one and one-fourth, and one and one-fourth inches each. 
 Cut to the last line. See Fig. 4. Lay off the vertical spaces, 
 one and one-half, four, and one and one-half inches each. 
 Locate the middle of the upper edge, and cut the semi-circular 
 opening. Bisect the lines A-B and C-D and from the point of 
 bisection measure out one inch, and from these points draw 
 lines to A, B, and D. Cut to these lines. Cut away the 
 oblongs from the lower corners. Bound the corners of the pro- 
 
 Model IV. Candy Box. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 jecting piece. Score all remaining lines and fold to place. 
 This box may be glued to shape if preferred. 
 
 Fig. 4 
 
84 
 
 EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL V. FOLDING BOX. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol ; size, 13 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper corners lay out the horizontal spaces, viz. : 
 two and one-half inches, one inch, two and one-half inches 
 and one inch each. See Fig. 5. From the upper left corner 
 measure off the vertical spaces, viz. : two and one-half, three 
 and one-half, two and one-half, three and one-half and one- 
 half inch each. Cut away all waste, leaving the projecting 
 
 Fl 5 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 piece at the bottom. 
 This forms the cover 
 and the tongue (or 
 the piece to slip in- 
 side the edge of the 
 box) . The piece pro- 
 jecting at the right 
 forms the lap. 
 
 Cut in on all heavy 
 lines, as indicated by 
 the drawing, and fold 
 and crease on all 
 dotted lines. Now 
 bring the box into 
 shape as shown in the 
 sketch. Place glue 
 on the one-half inch lap and fasten. 
 
 MODEL VI. LUNCH BOX. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol ; size, 9 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper corners measure down and draw lines for 
 the horizontal spaces, viz. : two, three, and two inches each. 
 Cut to the line drawn last. See Fig. 6. From the upper 
 left corner lay off the vertical spaces, viz. : one and one-half, 
 two, one and one-half, one-half and one inch each. Cut to 
 the line drawn last. From points A and B measure up one 
 and one-half inches, place 
 dots, draw line across and 
 cut to this line. Cut in 
 on the lines A-X and B-X. 
 Repeat this on opposite 
 side at points and D. 
 Cut in to form the laps 
 on the cover, making this 
 lap one-half inch wide, Model vi. Lunch BOX. 
 
86 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 with a projecting tongue of one inch (pointed at the end). 
 Fold into shape, cut the openings in the front edge of the 
 box and pass the tongue through this. Glue into shape. 
 
 Fig. 6. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 87 
 
 MODEL VII. HAT BOX. 
 
 Material. Manilla paper; size, 6 in. x 6 in. 
 
 Laying the rulers along the edge of the paper, place dots at 
 every one and one-half inch space. See Fig. 7. From these dots 
 draw slanting connecting lines to the right and left. Draw these 
 in either as dotted or light lines. Now make heavy all lines 
 reaching from the outside edge to the first point of intersec- 
 tion, and cut to these lines, as shown in the drawing. Cut in 
 on the diagonal lines at points A, B, and D. The triangles 
 thus formed are used for laps. The square touched on the 
 
EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Model VII. Hat Box. 
 
 corners by these triangles 
 forms the bottom of the 
 box. Crease on the lines 
 around this square and 
 turn the paper up to form 
 the sides of the box. Now 
 crease and fold over for 
 the covers. An opening 
 is made in two adjacent 
 corners and through these 
 the pointed end of the 
 tongue is passed. This model requires no gluing. 
 
 MODEL VIII. TABOURETTE I. 
 
 Material. Strawboard; size, 10 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper and lower left corners measure off the 
 vertical spaces (two inches each), and draw lines across; now 
 add the one-half-inch space for the lap and cut to this line. 
 
 From the upper corners measure down one-half inch 
 and draw a line across ; this space forms the top lap. From 
 this line measure down three inches, draw a line across and 
 cut to this line. From the top edge measure down one and 
 one-half inches and draw a light line across. This line is 
 crossed by the vertical lines. Measure one inch to the right 
 
 Fig. 8 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 89 
 
 and left of the point of intersection and here place a dot. 
 With a compass describe a circle one-half inch in diameter, 
 using the dot as a center. From the lower left corner meas- 
 ure in one-half inch and 
 place a dot. Measure one- 
 half inch to the right and 
 left of the lower ends of 
 the vertical lines and here 
 place dots. From these 
 dots draw lines to the 
 center of the correspond- 
 ing circles and cut to 
 these lines, and then cut 
 out the remainder of the 
 circle. Score all vertical 
 lines, and score and turn 
 
 Model VIII. Tabourette I. . , , , ,, 
 
 to a right angle the one- 
 half-inch space, first cutting in on the heavy lines. Glue to 
 shape. 
 
 From the waste piece cut a square four inches by four 
 inches. Draw a line one inch in from all edges. This line 
 
 Model IX. Kitchen Table. 
 
90 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 
 indicates the position of the framework. Glue the four-inch 
 square to the top of the framework. 
 
 MODEL IX. KITCHEK TABLE. 
 
 Material. Straw board; size, 16 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper and lower left corners measure oif the 
 vertical spaces, three, four, three 
 and four inches, and again one- 
 half inch. See Fig. 9. Draw 
 lines across, and cut to the last 
 line. From the upper corners 
 measure down one-half inch and 
 draw a line across. Cut in on the 
 heavy lines above this horizontal 
 one. From this line measure 
 down three and one-half inches 
 and draw a line across. Cut to 
 this line. 
 
 From the horizontal line meas- 
 ure down one-half inch and draw 
 a line across. Locate points A, 
 B, and D. Measure one-half 
 inch to the right and left of these 
 points, and repeat this at the 
 lower ends of the vertical lines. 
 Draw lines connecting these dots, 
 and cut to these lines. 
 
 Score all vertical lines, and the 
 remaining horizontal line. Glue 
 to shape. From the waste piece 
 cut the top of the table, size five 
 inches by four inches. Draw a 
 line one-half inch in from all 
 edges, and glue this piece to the 
 foundation. 
 
 rig. 9. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 91 
 
 MODEL X. TABOURETTE II. 
 
 Material. Essex "bristol; size, 8 in. x 8 in. 
 From the upper corners measure down one-half inch and 
 draw a line across. From this line measure down three inches, 
 draw a line across and cut to this line. See Fig. 10. 
 
 From the upper and lower left corners measure to the 
 right for the vertical spaces of one and one-half inch each, 
 and the one space one-quarter inch wide. Draw lines and cut 
 
 to the last line. From 
 the horizontal line 
 measure down one inch 
 and draw a line across. 
 Locate points A, B, C 
 and D. 
 
 Measure three- 
 fourths inch to the 
 right and left of these 
 points and here place 
 a dot. 
 
 From the lower left 
 corner measure to the 
 
 Fig. 10 
 
92 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 right one-quarter inch and also measure one-quarter inch to 
 the right and left of the lower end of each vertical line and 
 place dots. 
 
 Draw lines from these dots to the dots at points 1, 2 3 3 
 and 4. 
 
 Find the middle of these lines and draw a compound 
 curve. Cut to these curved lines. Score all vertical lines, 
 and also the line forming the edge of the top lap. Glue to 
 shape. From the waste piece cut a circular top, four inches 
 in diameter, and glue it to the framework. 
 
 Model X. Tabourette II. 
 MODEL XI. TABOURETTE III. 
 
 Material. Essex "bristol; size, 10 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper corners measure down one-half inch and 
 draw a line across. From this line measure down two and 
 one-half inches, draw a line across and cut to this line. From 
 the upper and lower left corners locate dots for the vertical 
 lines one and one-half inch apart, and one space one-quarter 
 inch, to form the lap. Draw lines connecting these dots, and 
 cut to the last line. From the horizontal line measure down 
 three-quarters of an inch and draw a light line across. Locate 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 93 
 
 points A, B, 0, D, E and F. Measure three-quarters of an 
 inch to the right and left of these points and place a dot. 
 From the lower left corner measure to the right three-eighths 
 of an inch, and the same from the lower ends of the vertical 
 lines. 
 
 Draw freehand curves in one 
 of the vertical spaces as indi- 
 cated in Fig. 11. Cut to this 
 curve. Score all vertical lines. 
 Place the section containing 
 the curves over each of the 
 other sections, and trace around 
 the curved lines, thus forming 
 the six legs. Glue to shape. 
 
 For the top use the waste 
 piece, and on this describe a 
 hexagon on the given base, one 
 and one-half inches. Take the 
 line A-B, one and one-half 
 inches in length. With a 
 radius equal to the length of 
 A-B, describe arcs, using the 
 ends of the line as centers. 
 
 <-^,> 
 
 Fig- 12. 
 
 Fig. 11. 
 
94 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 The arcs cut each other at point C. With C as center, and 
 the same radius, describe a circle. Beginning at B, set off 
 this space, around the circumference of the circle. Draw 
 lines connecting these points, as in Fig. 12. 
 
 MODEL XII. CHAIE. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; size, 11 in. x 8 in. 
 From the upper corners measure down one-half inch and 
 draw a line across. From this line measure down three- 
 eighths inch and draw a line 
 across ; again, from the same 
 line, measure down two and 
 one-half inches, draw a line, 
 and cut to this line. 
 
 From the upper and 
 lower left corners, measure 
 to the right three-eighths of 
 an inch, locate points A, B, 
 C and D. From these points 
 measure three-eighths of an 
 inch to the right and left, 
 and here place dots. 
 Model xi. Tabourette in. From the lower ends of 
 
 the vertical lines measure the same distance, place dots and 
 draw lines connecting these dots to the dots above. Cut out 
 as indicated in Fig. 13, and cut in on the heavy lines. Score 
 the vertical lines, and the lines forming the edge of the lap. 
 Fold, and glue to shape. Use the piece cut away for the 
 back and seat. 
 
 Place this piece on the desk with its short edges parallel 
 to the edge, and draw a center line. From the upper cor- 
 ners measure down six inches, and draw a line across. Cut 
 tc this line. Locate points A and B, and from these points 
 measure one and three-fourths inches to the right and left, 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 95 
 
 and here place dots. Draw lines connecting these dots, and 
 cut to the lines. 
 
 From the lower corners of the paper measure up two and 
 one-half inches, place dots, and draw a line across. Locate 
 
 
 4". 
 
 - 
 
 Fig. 13. 
 
 Fig. 15. 
 
96 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 point C. From points B and C measure to the right and left 
 one and one-quarter inches, and draw vertical lines connecting 
 these dots. Now from the dots at ends of line C draw lines to 
 the upper corners, and cut to these lines. 
 
 From points 1 and 2 measure in three-eighths of an 
 inch. Measure the same from the lower corners, and draw 
 connecting lines. From points 1 and 2 measure down three- 
 eighths of an inch, draw a line across, and cut out, as indi- 
 cated in Fig. 14. 
 
 From the upper corners measure in three-eighths of an 
 inch, place dots, and from these dots measure down three- 
 eighths of an inch. Shape the top as indicated, and glue 
 this back to position. Use for the seat of the chair the 
 remaining piece cut away. 
 
 Locate points A and B 
 on the center line. From 
 point A, measure one and 
 one-half inches to the right 
 and left, and here place 
 dots. From point B, meas- 
 ure one and three-fourths 
 inches to the right and left, 
 place dots and draw the 
 connecting lines. Round 
 off the corners, as indicated 
 in Fig. 15, and glue to posi- 
 tion. 
 
 MODEL XIII. BED. 
 
 Material. Essex bristol; 
 size, 11 in. x 8 in. 
 
 From the upper and 
 lower left corneis measure 
 in for vertical lines, three- 
 fourths of an inch, five 
 
 Model XII. Chair. 
 
CONSTRUCTION IN CARDBOARD. 
 
 97 
 
 inches and again three-fourths of an inch. See Tig. 16. 
 Cut to the last line. From the upper corners measure 
 down three-fourths of an inch, three inches, and again three- 
 fourths of an inch. Cut to the last line. Cut in on the heavy 
 
 H 
 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 
 Fig. 17. 
 
 Fig. 18. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 lines, score all remaining lines, fold and glue. Using the 
 waste piece, lay out the drawing for the head and footboards, 
 as indicated in Pigs. 17 and 18. Cut to shape and glue to 
 position. 
 
 Model XIII. Bed. 
 
COURSE IN RAPHIA. 
 
 This course may be introduced into the fourth school year, 
 but should not be given to the pupils until the muscles of the 
 hand are strong enough to permit the use of a large darning 
 needle for sewing. Kaphia is the inner fibrous bark of a 
 species of palm found in Madagascar. It is sold in twists, 
 
 varying in size and weight 
 from two to five pounds, 
 and in price from fifteen 
 to twenty cents a pound. 
 Ten pounds will furnish 
 material for a class of fif- 
 teen girls for this entire 
 course, which may be 
 given during the period 
 when the boys have shop 
 work. 
 
 Materials required are 
 scissors, No. 5 darning 
 needles, and raphia. 
 As the raphia is braided before sewing, in order to 
 facilitate this, we allow the girls to sit before screw hooks, 
 fastened at intervals, in the wainscoting, on which they hang 
 the strand while braiding. As the raphia is uneven in width, 
 a certain thickness of braid must first be decided upon as 
 standard for each model, and as many strands of the material 
 used as are necessary to plait a three-strand braid of the desired 
 thickness. The lengths are added by splicing, not by tying, 
 and each pupil may alternately plait and sew, as it is not 
 necessary to plait the full length needed before the sewing is 
 started. 
 
 Model I. Bound Mat. 
 
100 
 
 H.APHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Small tags, to be found at a stationer's, and costing about 
 ten cents a hundred, are marked with each pupil's name and 
 fastened to her work. By using dyes, many artistic colors 
 may be produced and these colored strands used for the entire 
 model, or for sewing, etc. 
 
 MODEL I. ROUND MAT. 
 
 The braid is laid flat and sewed edge to edge, with a large 
 darning needle, and for thread the finest strands of raphia, 
 which are not to be used in the braiding, but should be 
 reserved for sewing. Have the sewing all done on one side 
 and not loosely the teacher examining the work frequently 
 in order to insure even, close sewing. 
 
 Model HI. Napkin Ring. 
 
 Model IV. Circular Tray. 
 
COURSE IN RAPHIA. 
 
 101 
 
 After serving to the desired size, six inches in diameter, 
 add a border. This may be made either by sewing the braided 
 strand in single or double points or scallops, or by making a fringe 
 of the unbraided raphia, 
 fastening it into the edge 
 with a buttonhole stitch. 
 By catching the edge 
 together in three different 
 places this may be con- 
 verted into a very useful 
 basket. 
 
 MODEL II. TABLE MAT. 
 
 This varies from Model I. in shape, being elliptical, and 
 in manner of sewing, as the braid is sewed together with the 
 flat sides touching, and edges up. A complete set of useful 
 table mats may be made, varying in size. 
 
 MODEL III. NAPKIH KING. 
 
 For this exercise the braid is sewed together with the face 
 sides touching; sizes may vary. 
 
 Model V. EUiptical Tray. 
 
 Model VI. Sailor Hat for DoU. 
 MODEL IV. CIRCULAR TRAY. 
 
 Diameter of bottom, four inches. Depth of side, one inch:' 
 If the braided strand is very coarse the edges may be 
 sewed together; if fine, the sides are joined. After making 
 the bottom the desired size, add the side to the depth of one 
 inch, sewing round and round to the edge of the bottom, and 
 frequently allowing the stitches to pass through the entire 
 depth of the side. This gives firmness to the finished work. 
 
102 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL V. ELLIPTICAL TEAT. 
 
 Length of bottom, five inches. Depth of siue, one and 
 one-half inches. Follow directions for Model V. 
 
 MODEL VI. SAILOE HAT FOE DOLL. 
 
 This is started as in Model III. , but the braid must be 
 sewed flat, i. e., with edges touching. Trimming may be 
 added, either by making a 
 braided band and tying the 
 ends, adding tassels of the 
 same, or by using narrow 
 ribbon for the band. Have 
 the outside row double in 
 thickness. Variety may be 
 given to this lesson by en- 
 couraging pupils to make 
 hats of various shapes, color- 
 ing them with aniline dyes. Model vn. Jewelry BOX. 
 
 MODEL VII. JEWELEY BOX. 
 
 If the edges are to be joined 
 in sewing, the braid should be 
 very heavy, so as to give solidity 
 to the finished model. For bot- 
 tom, make circular mat four 
 inches in diameter. Add side 
 to depth of two inches. For 
 cover, make circular mat to fit, 
 and hinge it to the box by sew- 
 ing loosely, adding a loop on the 
 opposite side of the cover, which 
 may be fastened with a peg pass- 
 ing through a loop projecting 
 from the front of the box. 
 
 Model TO!. Handkerchief or Sewing Box. 
 
COURSE IN RAPHIA. 
 
 103 
 
 MODEL VIII. HANDKERCHIEF OR SEWING BOX. 
 
 For this model make the bot- 
 tom five inches long and one 
 inch wide and add side to the 
 depth of four and a half 
 inches. Then add the project- 
 ing piece for flap, placing a 
 loop on the point which is to 
 fasten over a button sewed to 
 the bag. Add the braided 
 chain for hanging, and after 
 bending a double piece of stout 
 wire into shape for a hook, 
 cover it with the braided raphia 
 by weaving back and forth. 
 
 MODEL IX. SEWING CASE. 
 
 For this model two pockets 
 are made, one with the bottom 
 one and one-half inches wide, 
 six inches long and sides four 
 
 Model IX. Sewing Case. 
 
 
 Model X. Letter Case. 
 
 Model XI. Wall Pocket. 
 
104 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 inches deep ; the other one enough larger to admit of its slip- 
 ping down outside the smaller, .thus forming a secure covering 
 for the scissors, thread, etc. , usually carried on a short journey. 
 
 MODEL X. LETTER CASE. 
 
 Length of bottom, six inches. Width of bottom, one inch. 
 Depth of side, three inches. Sew into shape and add back for 
 hanging, as indicated in the illustration. 
 
 MODEL XI. WALL POCKET. 
 
 Make oblong mat twelve inches long and eight inches wide; 
 fold up one end so as to make the front of the pocket four 
 inches deep. To each corner of this is fastened a braided 
 strand two inches long, the other ends of which, being fas- 
 tened to the back, hold the pocket in position. Add braided 
 
 cord and tassels to the upper cor- 
 ners for hanging. This is very 
 effective when made of coarse 
 braid. 
 
 MODEL XII. THERMOMETER 
 BACK. 
 
 Sew the braid to fit the ther- 
 mometer, leaving a one-inch mar- 
 gin. Fasten a cord and tassel for 
 hanging. 
 
 Nail the thermometer into 
 position, using brass escutcheon 
 pins and clinching the brads at 
 the back. 
 
 MODEL XIII. CALENDAR BACK. 
 
 Sew back to size for calendar, 
 leaving suitable margin. Glue 
 calendar to position. 
 
 Model XII. Thermometer Back. 
 
COURSE IN RAPHIA. 
 
 105 
 
 Model XIII. Calendar Back. 
 
 Model XIV. Handkerchief Case. 
 
 Model XV. Tray. 
 
 MODEL XIV. HANDKERCHIEF CASE. 
 
 Make a braided square, eight by eight inches. Fold three 
 of the corners to the center and sew to position. Place loop 
 on the remaining corner, and sew a button to the case for 
 fastening the flap in position. 
 
 MODEL XV. TRAY. 
 
 Make a square eight by eight inches. Fold all corners to 
 the center and then back again to the outside edge. Sew the 
 edges together and fasten the corners down. 
 
106 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL XVI. SUNBOKNET. 
 
 The braid of raphia used for the front of this model 
 should be very firmly and finely woven, and in width be not 
 
 more than one-eighth of 
 an inch at the edge near 
 the crown of the bonnet, 
 and but a little wider at 
 the front edge. 
 
 In sewing the braid 
 into shape use thread, 
 with a common sewing 
 needle. The crown may 
 be made of turkey red 
 muslin, or of any color to 
 suit the taste of the child 
 making it. The front 
 should be fitted to the 
 dolFs head. After sewing 
 in the crown, add strings 
 for tying, and a bow for 
 the front of the crown, 
 
 Model XVI. Sunbonnet 
 
 MODEL XVII. BOOK BAG. 
 
 Sew the braided raphia into an oblong piece fourteen 
 inches long, five inches wide. Double the ends together, and 
 join the edges by a raphia strand, braided and sewed on in 
 zigzag fashion, leaving the 
 sides open for about one 
 inch, as shown in Fig. 1. 
 Add the handles. 
 
 These bags may be made 
 of different sizes, and used 
 for various purposes. F i g . 
 
COURSE IN RAPHIA. 
 
 107 
 
 MODEL XVIII. RAPHIA DOLLS. I. 
 
 After braiding a length of raphia, in thickness about the 
 size of the little finger, cut it into pieces twice the length 
 
 desired for the height 
 of the doll. Lay these 
 lengths side by side, 
 and using a strand of 
 raphia, tie them to- 
 gether around the mid- 
 dle. Now double them 
 over at this point, and 
 tie again, to form the 
 head. 
 
 From this point 
 separate such portion 
 as will be needed to 
 form the arms, and 
 after measuring off the 
 waist line, tie here. 
 Separate the strands 
 to form the legs, and 
 if more than one braid- 
 ed strand is needed to 
 form the leg of the 
 desired thickness, they 
 may be bound together 
 by winding round and 
 round each leg a strand 
 of raphia. Clothing 
 may be fashioned from 
 tissue paper, and the 
 dolls dressed as boys 
 or girls. Eyes, nose 
 and mouth may be 
 Model XYTII. ^>oiir. marked with ink. 
 
108 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL XIX. DOLL. II. 
 
 Many strands of raphia are laid side by side, on the desk, 
 and then tied together around the middle. Double the 
 
 Model XIX. Raphia Doll. 
 
COURSE IN RAPHIA. 
 
 109 
 
 strands over at this point, and tie another strand around these 
 at the point where the neck is to be formed. 
 
 The size of the head thus formed will depend upon the 
 number of strands of raphia used. From this point separate, 
 at each side, enough strands to form the arms, and into this 
 part insert fine bonnet wire, one piece for each arm (copper 
 wire may be used), and plait, in a three strand braid, the 
 portion set aside for the arms. From the remaining strands 
 form the body, and tie again at the waist line, and then sep- 
 arate the strands into two equal parts. Now insert two pieces 
 of wire, each as long as the doll from head to toe, passing the 
 ends up into the head, and braid these strands to form the 
 
 Model XX. Shopping Bag. 
 
110 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 legs. The use of the wire permits the bending of the body. 
 Three pieces may be inserted into each arm, and six pieces 
 into the body. This will give more firmness to the braided 
 strand. 
 
 MODEL XX. SHOPPING BAG. 
 
 The making of this model is simplified by using a form 
 over which it is shaped. To make this form, cut two pieces 
 of heavy cardboard to the size and shape desired for the face 
 of the bag. Place between these pieces enough paper or cot- 
 ton to form the desired thickness, and wind around with cord. 
 Having braided the raphia, sew together to form an oblong 
 piece, fitting the bottom of the form. From the edges of 
 this bottom piece form the sides of the bag, frequently placing 
 the work over the form in order to secure the desired flare for 
 the sides. Add the length for the handle, as indicated in 
 the drawing. 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 Materials used. Pith, raphia, slats, wire, long wire hair- 
 pins, and brass rings of various sizes. Tools, one pair of flat 
 pliers, one pair of wire cutters, and a quantity of coarse darn- 
 ing needles. 
 
 MODEL I. MAT. 
 
 The slats used in this model are six inches long and one- 
 half inch wide. Use four strips six inches, and one four 
 inches in length. Place one above the other, with the shorter 
 one inside, and fasten them together in the middle, using a 
 slender brad or a large pin. This is to be removed when the 
 mat is finished. 
 
 Now lay this foundation on the desk, and spread the rays 
 equally apart. With the raphia weave over one, under one, 
 until within one-half inch of the end of the slats, and finish, 
 the end by sewing it into the edge of the mat ; notch the ends 
 
 of the slats. A second one 
 may be made by weaving the 
 raphia to the ends of the 
 slats, and then sewing the 
 edge, as indicated at Fig. I. 
 The ends of the slats are 
 notched, and below this 
 notch a hole is bored (see 
 Fig. I.), through which the 
 needle passes in sewing. 
 Sew over and over, until the 
 ends of the slats are covered. 
 
 Fig. 1. 
 
112 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 MODEL II. BOOK MARKER. 
 
 For the foundation use 
 kindergarten "pasting 
 slats. " These are ten 
 inches long and one-quar- 
 ter inch wide. Use two 
 strips, cutting one into 
 three equal pieces, and 
 crossing as indicated at 
 Pig. 2. 
 
 With a strand of raphia, 
 begin at 1 and weave over 
 1, under 2, over 3, under 
 4, over 5, under 6, over 7, 
 and here change and pass 
 under two slats (Nos. 8 
 and 1); pass under two 
 each time around but 
 always make this change 
 one slat ahead of the last 
 change, i. e., under 2 and 
 3, 4 and 5, etc. 
 
 This is necessary when 
 using an even number of 
 foundation rays. The work 
 would be more simple if 
 an uneven number were 
 used, and these fastened 
 together as in Model I. 
 Finish off by notching the 
 ends, and sewing the end 
 of the raphia into the edge 
 of the marker. 
 
 Fig. 2. DetaU of Book Marker. 
 
BAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 113 
 
 Fig. 3. Detail of Open Umbrella. 
 MODEL III. UMBRELLA. 
 
 Material. Corks (one inch long, one-half inch in diam- 
 eter) ; toothpicks, beads and raphia. 
 
 Tools. Brad awl, scissors and needles. 
 
 Place the small end of the cork on the desk, and with a 
 coarse brad awl pierce holes around it about one-fourth inch 
 from the end, being careful tor insert the brad awl at an angle 
 outward. 
 
 Into these holes are placed wooden toothpicks ; these are 
 to form the ribs of the umbrella. It is now readily under- 
 stood why the holes are to be at an angle. (So that the 
 umbrella, when covered, will have the correct slope.) Cover 
 this framework with strands of raphia, proceeding in the 
 same manner as in raphia and wire mat. Fasten the end of 
 the raphia by sewing it into the edge of the work and then 
 slip a colored glass bead over the end of each rib. Insert 
 another toothpick into the large end of the cork. This will 
 form the handle. Slip a larger bead over the end of the han- 
 dle to form the knob. 
 
114 
 
 RAPHIA AND REEE WEAVING 
 
 MODEL IV. UMBEELLA. (CLOSED.) 
 
 Materials. Corks, raphia, wire 
 hairpins and glass beads. Tools. 
 Needles, scissors, brad awl, and one pair 
 combination pliers and wire cutters. 
 
 With the brad awl pierce holes in 
 the cork, as in the preceding model, 
 having the angle such that the frame- 
 work will represent a partly closed um- 
 brella. 
 
 Using the wire cutters, cut the 
 hairpins into the lengths desired for 
 the ribs, and insert into the holes the 
 ends of these pieces, thus forming the 
 framework. 
 
 Now cover this foundation with 
 raphia, as in the preceding model. 
 Insert another length for the handle, 
 and with the pliers, shape the end into 
 a crook. 
 
 MODEL V. BASKET, WITH HANDLE. 
 
 Use for the framework seven pieces of pith, one-quarter 
 inch wide and eight inches long, and one piece five inches 
 long. - 
 
 Place a dot at the middle of each eight-inch piece, and 
 one inch from the end of the five-inch piece; fasten all 
 together at this dot, using a fine brad, half-inch, No. 20. 
 Lay this framework on the desk, and spread the rays to equal 
 distances. Draw a line across the width of each, one and 
 one-half inches from the center. With a single strand of 
 raphia, proceed to weave over one, under one, until the 
 pencil lines are reached. 
 
 With a sharp knife score these lines lightly, and from this 
 point turn up the rays for the sides. For the weaver, we 
 
 Fig. 4. 
 Detail Umbrella, Closed. 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 115 
 
 now use a cnree-strand braid 
 of raphij, (tightly braided), 
 and weave under and over 
 until the sides are two inches 
 deep; then fasten the end. 
 
 Take two strips of pith, 
 each one long enough to pass 
 around the basket, one out- 
 side, one inside, allowing for 
 the lap. Holding one end 
 of each in place, proceed 
 to sew, crossing the threads 
 at each spoke, and also pass- 
 ing it along from ray to ray, 
 as shown in the drawing. 
 Use a darning needle, with 
 a strand of raphia for the 
 thread. 
 
 For the handle, use a 
 piece of pith, twelve inches 
 
 j nsert the endg 
 
 Fig. 5. Basket, with Handle. 
 
 into the sides of the basket, and, winding a strip of raphia 
 back and forth, cover the pith. Fasten the handle firmly 
 into the sides of the basket by sewing the raphia across and 
 through, as when binding the top. 
 
 MODEL VI. COVER FOR A DRINKING GLASS. 
 
 Having chosen a glass of suitable size and shape, use pith 
 one-quarter inch wide for the foundation rays, and cut the 
 pieces long enough to pass around the glass lengthwise. The 
 number of pieces will vary according to the diameter of the 
 bottom of the glass, but must always be an uneven number. 
 Fasten all together as in the preceding model, and lay this 
 foundation on the desk, with the rays spread equally. 
 
116 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 Wet the raphia and weave with a single strand, over one, 
 under one, to the width of the bottom. At this point, using 
 a sharp knife, carefully split the rays, and if the spokes are 
 still too far apart insert others at regular intervals, after 
 pointing the ends. Now score the pith, crosswise, at point of 
 
 turning up for the sides, weave 
 over and under until the required 
 depth is reached, and then bind 
 the top edge as in the preceding 
 model. 
 
 Make the cover, in the same 
 manner as the bottom, as large as 
 the diameter of the top, and bind 
 the edge, holding the pith against 
 the thickness of the edge. Sew 
 the cover into position and finish 
 with a loop of elastic cord. Fas- 
 ten a bead the size of a pea on the 
 basket opposite the loop on the 
 cover; for this, use a fine brad 
 and clinch it on the inside of the 
 basket. The loop should be long 
 enough to catch over the bead for 
 fastening. 
 
 MAT. 
 
 Circular and oval mats, trays, 
 bowls and baskets, may be made 
 by twisting many strands of 
 raphia into a sort of rope, and 
 then sewing this rope into shape, using the buttonhole stitch. 
 Taking as many single strands as will make a rope of 
 sufficient thickness, wind these for about six inches, with a 
 single strand of raphia. 
 
 Then, beginning at the twisted end, place it inside to form 
 
 Model VI. 
 Cover for Drinking Glass. 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 117 
 
 the center of the mat. Now with a darning needle, threaded 
 with a strand of dampened raphia, join the successive rows, 
 as wound See Fig. 7. Hold the loose ends toward the 
 body. 
 
 In giving this work to 
 very young children it 
 will be necessary to wind 
 the entire length of the 
 rope, additional lengths 
 being added by splicing. 
 But for the older pupils, 
 after the center is well 
 started, it will not be 
 necessary to wind further, 
 as, with the left hand, 
 the pupil can easily keep 
 the rope in a sort of twist. 
 Hold this twisted end 
 
 Fig. 7. Mat (made from twisted raphia). 
 
 close against the mat 
 
 until fastened into place, 
 
 and then twist another length and sew, and so on until the 
 
 mat is the desired size. 
 
 BASKET. 
 
 Start with the 
 twisted strand, as 
 for the circular 
 mat. Make the 
 bottom of the 
 basket three 
 inches in diame- 
 ter and then form 
 the sides. Hold 
 the rope so as to 
 Fig. 8. Basket. form a gradual 
 
118 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 flare to the sides, and form the handle from the one piece 
 that is, the handles are not made separate. After both 
 handles are formed, continue the sewing until the handle first 
 formed is reached, and fasten the end here. 
 
 It will readily be seen that the firmness of the finished 
 basket depends upon the firmness of the twisted rope. For 
 large pieces it will be better to have the rope about three- 
 fourths of an inch in diameter. 
 
 BUSH OR ROPE BASKET. 
 
 The basket shown in the illustration was made from rush 
 which is found growing in marshy regions. Wire was used 
 for the joining. A piece of No. 8 reed formed the handle. 
 This was then covered with a twist of rush as shown. 
 
 As this material is not always readily obtained, a basket 
 may be made from rope, using wire or stout cord for joining. 
 Cut the rope into pieces twelve inches in length, and use two 
 lengths of wire, each twenty-four inches long. Place one 
 piece of rope on the desk and pass both pieces of wire around 
 it and cross the ends of each, bringing the wire close to the 
 rope, and each piece one and one-half inches away from the 
 middle, thus leaving a space three inches between the wire. 
 Now place the second piece of rope between the wires and 
 again cross the ends and proceed until the last piece of 
 rope is added, when the ends of the wire are twisted closely 
 
 I 
 
 /^/^ILZ^Z^L/Z^Z. 
 
 Detail of Sush Basket. 
 
120 EAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 and cut. The ends of the rope are now brought together 
 and the basket formed into a boat shape. A wire is twisted 
 around the ends to hold them firmly in position. The 
 foundation for the handles is formed by a piece of reed (No. 
 8) fourteen inches in length. This is covered with a twist of 
 rope which may be brought over the wire which binds the 
 ends together. If stout cord is used for joining it will be 
 necessary to tie it after each piece of rope is laid in place, as 
 the cord will not hold the rope so firmly as the wire will. 
 
 Baskets of similar shape but larger size may be made from 
 cornstalks when, of course, it would be better to use wire for 
 joining. 
 
 CUFF AND COLLAR BOX. 
 
 Material. Pith, one-quarter inch wide, and raphia. 
 Dampen the pith, and form a circle five inches in diameter, 
 from one end. The pith is now wound in a spiral, to form 
 the sides of the box, which should be about five inches in 
 height. The raphia is used for joining the pith, as shown in 
 the illustration. It must be damp, and used with a coarse 
 needle. The bottom of the box may be made of circles of 
 thin wood, or of heavy cardboard, and in either case holes are 
 bored near the edge of the circle, and this is sewed into the 
 edge of the box. 
 
 For the edge of the cover, join, separately, two circles of 
 pith, as in the sides of the box, and for the top of the cover 
 use a circle of cardboard, covered with raphia. To cover 
 this, cut a hole in the center, and work in buttonhole stitch 
 
 Detail of join of 2d and 3d rows. 
 
&APHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 121 
 
 around the outer edge, passing the thread through the hole 
 in the center. 
 
 Join this covered piece to the edge of the cover, by sewing 
 through the. ridge formed by the buttonhole stitch. The 
 bottom of the box will present a neater appearance if it is 
 covered in the same manner. A ring is placed on the top of 
 the cover. This is formed of tightly braided raphia, or by 
 covering a small brass curtain ring with a buttonhole stitch, 
 as in napkin ring. 
 
 After passing once around with the raphia, the thread is 
 brought up between 2 and 3, over 3, and then down in front 
 of 2, and between the looped stitches ; it is then brought out 
 between 2 and 3, and back over at A, forming a knot, and so 
 on. This makes a very durable and effective join. 
 
 Detail of join of first two rows of side of Cuff Box. 
 
 Pass the raphia, with a buttonhole loop, over strip No. 1. 
 Bring the end of the thread through this loop, and over strip 
 
 No. 2, then down behind 
 No. 2, and back over the 
 thread at B. Then carry 
 it ~back of No. 2, and up 
 over it, and here form 
 another buttonhole 
 stitch. Bring the end 
 around No. 1, at D, and 
 here form another loop, 
 and proceed. It will be 
 noticed that the loops 
 
 Detail of Top of Cover for Cuff BOX. alternate on either side. 
 
122 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 FRAME. 
 
 From a square of cardboard cut a circular frame, using 
 five and one-half inches for outside diameter and two inches 
 for inside. Cover this with raphia, using the buttonhole stitch 
 as in detail for cover of cuff and collar box. After the open 
 framework is covered glue another circular piece to the back. 
 Use braided raphia cord for hanging, or make an easel back. 
 
 Detail of Rings. 
 RINGS. 
 
 Rings for various purposes may be made from pith, round 
 or split reed. For napkin rings use the split reed (No. 8), or 
 pith (No. 5). Make two rings of the same size and join the 
 ends of each by lapping and wiring. The ends should be 
 trimmed down with a sharp knife so that the join will be 
 smooth. Now wet a strand of raphia and thread it through 
 a coarse needle. Hold the two rings side by side and join 
 them by passing the raphia over the under one, in between the 
 two, under the top one, and then bring the end to the front 
 and over the top one, in between the two, behind the lower 
 one, back again to the front, in between the two and so on, 
 being careful to lay the raphia on closely and evenly. This 
 will make a very smooth covering. 
 
 Larger rings for use in "King Toss" or with " Grace 
 hoops" may be made by using No. 8 (or heavier) round 
 reed. Form into rings by splicing and wiring with fine wire. 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 123 
 
 They are covered with raphia in the same manner, but the 
 appearance is made more pleasing to the child by coloring the 
 raphia before using. This may easily be done by using 
 4 'Diamond Dyes." 
 
 EAPHIA, With WIKE. 
 
 By using wire as a foundation, over which the raphia is 
 woven, many artistic articles may be made. Copper wire, 
 being very pliable, is often used when the pupils are too 
 young to manipulate the heavier iron wire. In size it should 
 not be too fine, that of the lead in an ordinary sized lead pen- 
 cil being about right. The flat mat is chosen for the first 
 lesson, and the wire, having been cut to an even nrmber of 
 
 Detail of Raphia and Wire Mat. 
 
 desired lengths, is crossed at the center, and held between 
 the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, while with the 
 right hand, the strand of raphia is 
 carried under one ray, brought up 
 and carried back over the top of the 
 same, and then across from the under 
 
124 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 side to the next spoke, as shown in the detail. This throws 
 the covered wire up on top, in the form of a ridge. When 
 finished, the ends of the wire are bent over the mat, to pre- 
 vent the raphia from slipping off. A fringe is added by 
 looping doubled strands of raphia into the edge. Either side 
 may be used for the top. 
 
 RAPHIA, WITH WIRE HAIRPIKS. 
 
 By using heavy wire hairpins, substantial foundations for 
 many pieces of dolls' furniture may be made. The hairpins 
 
 are firmer than 
 the copper wire, 
 and may easily be 
 cut by using a 
 pair of wire cut- 
 ters, and bent 
 into any desired 
 shape with a pair 
 of flat pliers. 
 
 Details I. and II. 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 125 
 
 The different parts of the framework should be joined 
 firmly by using fine wire, and after the foundation is secured 
 it may be painted or not. If the entire framework is not 
 painted, it will be necessary to wind, with raphia, the parts 
 not covered by the weaving. 
 
 Tables (oblong, square or circular), chairs, of all styles, 
 hanging baskets, basinets, etc., etc., may very easily be 
 made. 
 
 BASINET. 
 
 In making the basinet, bend the hairpins for the ends, as 
 in Detail L, using two hairpins for each end piece. After 
 bending to desired shape, wire these pieces together with fine 
 wire, and then wind with raphia. 
 
 Detail II. In order to strengthen the framework, a cross- 
 piece is placed at the bottom, as seen in the drawing, and the 
 ends are brought up to near the top of the uprights, and here 
 bent down, so as to form a hook, on which the basket is 
 hung. 
 
 Detail III. The framework for the basket is formed by 
 using copper wire, and then covered with strands of braided 
 raphia. 
 
 MATCH HOLDER. 
 
 Materials. Baphia, wire 
 brads (3 in., No. 14), small can 
 of red "carriage paint/' wood 
 (pine or white wood), 3 in. x 3 
 in. and ^ in. thick, ruler and 
 compass. Find the center of 
 the square of wood, and de- 
 scribe a circle two inches in 
 diameter. Into this circle drive 
 an uneven number of long, 
 slender brads, being careful to 
 have equal spaces between the Fig. 10. Foundation for Match Holder 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 nails, and to stand them so that the heads point out^ thus 
 making the top larger than the bottom. 
 
 Now, with strands of raphia, weave under and over until 
 the heads of the brads are reached, and here fasten the end by 
 sewing it into the edge of the holder. While weaving, each 
 additional strand needed is added by splicing (i. e., by placing 
 the end of the new strand back alongside the end of the last 
 strand), and not by tying. This model is made more attract- 
 ive by painting the foundation before the raphia is woven in. 
 In this case, the work cannot be completed in one lesson, as 
 time must be given for the paint to harden. 
 
 Baskets of different sizes may be made by using larger 
 squares of wood and brads of the same or longer lengths. 
 
 The appearance of the base is improved if the edge is bev- 
 eled. To do this, draw a line on the face of the wood one- 
 quarter inch from the edge, and lines on the edges one-eighth 
 
 inch from this face. 
 
 Bevel to these lines, 
 either by placing the 
 wood in a vise and plan- 
 ing to these lines, or by 
 using a knife. Cut the 
 edges away to these lines. 
 Finish to the lines with 
 sandpaper. 
 
 ELLIPTICAL BASKET. 
 
 Materials. Eaphia, 
 wire brads 3 in. long, and 
 red paint; basswood, 6;^ 
 in. x 4# in. x fe in. 
 
 Tools. Scissors, rule, 
 compass, needle, knife, 
 hammer, twine, 
 rig. 11. For the bottom of this 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 127 
 
 basket use basswood, $6 in. thick, 6% in., long and 4^ in. 
 wide. Size of the ellipse to be 6 in. x 4 in. 
 
 Draw lines both lengthwise and crosswise the middle of the 
 board. From the point of intersection of these lines, lay off, 
 on the long diameter, three inches to the right and left, 
 points A and C, and from the same point lay off two inches, 
 above and below, points B and D on the short diameter. 
 
 "We now have the length and width of the ellipse. Set the 
 compass with a radius equal to one-half the long diameter 
 (3 in.), and placing the needle point at point marked for out- 
 side limit of short diameter, describe arcs, cutting the long 
 diameter at 1 and 2. See Fig. 11. Now place one-inch brads 
 at points of intersection 1, 2, and at D. Tie a piece of stout 
 thread around the brads, slipping it down close to the wood. 
 Now remove the brad at D, and place a pencil at this place, 
 and move it around on the wood, keeping the point close to 
 the string, and so describe the ellipse. Now cut to this line, 
 using a sharp knife. Draw another line around the ellipse, 
 
 Fig. 12. Elliptical Framework for Basket. 
 
128 
 
 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 one-half inch from the edge, and into this line, at every half 
 inch, drive wire brads, three inches long, or longer, if desired. 
 Paint this foundation with red or blue carriage paint, and set 
 aside for twenty-four hours. 
 
 Braid raphia into a fine and close strand, and weave around 
 these brads, as in match holder. 
 
 NAPKIN RING. 
 
 Take ten brass curtain rings about one inch in diameter, 
 and cover each one of these rings with raphia, worked on in 
 buttonhole stitch. See Figs. 13 and 14. No needle is needed, 
 
 Fig. 13. Detail of Covered Ring. 
 
 as this can easily be done with the fingers. After the ten 
 rings are covered, join these by lapping, as in Fig. 15, and 
 passing a ribbon (one inch wide), up through the ring at A, 
 and down through B, up through C, and down through D, 
 
 and so on, until all 
 have been joined, when 
 the ends of the ribbons 
 are to be tied in a 
 double bow. Other 
 sizes of rings may be 
 covered, according to 
 the width desired for 
 the napkin ring, or the 
 Fig. 14. Detail of Covered Rine. width mav be formed 
 
RAPHIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 129 
 
 Fig. 15. Detail of Napkin Ring. 
 
 by sewing together two or more of 
 the covered rings, and then join- 
 ing, to form the length, hy run- 
 ning a ribbon through each row, 
 lengthwise, as when forming the 
 ring one row wide. 
 
 Instead of ribbon, a five-strand 
 braid of raphia may be used for 
 joining. This is plaited, as in 
 Fig. 16. 
 
 HOLDER FOR BURNT MATCHES. 
 
 Having obtained a glass of 
 suitable size and shape take as 
 many brass curtain rings one inch 
 in diameter as will pass around the 
 glass, after being overlapped as in 
 Detail No. IV. for the napkin 
 ring. Cover the rings as in De- 
 tail Nos. VII and II. for the same 
 model. After having plaited a 
 five-strand braid of raphia pass it 
 through these rings, as in Detail 
 III., and suspend by a long loop 
 of the same. 
 
 Fig. 16. Detail of Five-Strand Plait. 
 
RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 LETTER CASE. 
 
 For the foundation of this 
 useful model obtain a wire sponge 
 basket; (a single one costs five 
 cents). After covering the loop 
 woven on in buttonhole stitch, 
 wind the wire reaching from the 
 loop to the back of the basket, 
 and cover in this same manner 
 the top edge of the rack. It will 
 be necessary to cross the strand of 
 raphia at the point where each 
 upright wire joins the top edge. 
 This is necessary in order that all 
 the wire may be hidden. Cover, 
 also, the wire forming the lower 
 edge and then, with a strand of 
 wet raphia, begin at the lower ends 
 of the upright wire and proceed 
 to weave the raphia around the 
 framework. Do this in the same manner as in covering the 
 wire foundation for the circular mat. This may be woven so 
 as to throw the ridge on either side, as desired. Trays for 
 the dresser may be made from wire soap dishes, and by cover- 
 ing the wire holders used for ginger ale bottles, and placing 
 a glass inside, very pretty vases may be made. 
 
 KKOT WOEK. 
 
 The following simple exercises are made in chain stitch, 
 with the fingers, without the aid of a crochet-hook : 
 
 HOKSE REINS. 
 
 Use a piece of soft twisted cotton twine and in length 
 three times that desired for the finished work, i. e., four 
 and one-half yards of twine for a finished length of one and 
 one-half yards. Be^in by forming a loop in one end by knot- 
 
 Model XVII. 
 Holder for Burnt Matches. 
 
RAPIIIA WITH SLATS, WIRE, ETC. 
 
 131 
 
 Fig. 18. Wire Foundation for Letter Case. 
 
 ting. Hold this knot between the thumb and finger of the left 
 hand and use the right hand to pull the twine up through this 
 loop, carefully keeping the free end toward the right hand. 
 
 Tighten or shorten this loop by pulling on the side toward 
 the knot. This forms the chain stitch. Continue to the end, 
 being careful to have the work uniform in thickness through- 
 out the entire length. The cross-piece is made separate, and 
 to this the bells are fastened. String the bells to this piece 
 by passing a finer cord in and out the meshes and through the 
 bells at the point where they are to be fastened to the cross- 
 piece, and then on to the end. 
 
 The ends of the piece used for stringing are to be fastened 
 into the main one, together with the loose ends of the cross- 
 piece. These ends are woven in and out, and then fastened 
 down by using a needle and strong thread. 
 
132 RAPHIA AND REED WEAVING. 
 
 WHISTLE CHAIN. 
 
 For this exercise use No. 20 twine. Knot for the loop so 
 as to leave the short end about three inches long. Proceed as 
 for the reins, and when the chain is of the desired length, 
 finish by working a chain stitch down the length of the short 
 end, and to this fasten the whistle. 
 
 CHAIN FOR SCISSORS. 
 
 A chain for hanging scissors may be made in the same 
 manner as the whistle chain or by plaiting a three-strand braid 
 with double or triple strings, care being taken to keep the 
 strings perfectly flat while working. This plait may be used 
 by itself and the scissors fastened to the end, or by using brass 
 curtain rings it can be made the same as napkin ring. (See 
 raphia work.) 
 
 MINNOW NET. 
 
 For the framework use a piece of round reed six feet 
 in length. Double this, and at the doubled end form a 
 hoop by winding the remaining ends firmly together, using 
 cotton twine, No. 60. This will form the handle. For a net 
 one foot deep, cut the twine into four-feet lengths. Double 
 these pieces and passing the loop up and through the hoop, 
 bring it over to the outside and pass the ends through. Loop 
 on the remaining lengths, leaving not more than one inch 
 space between each piece. Beginning at any spot, take an 
 end from each adjoining pair and tie a simple knot. Con- 
 tinue around the hoop in this manner. Then begin on the 
 next row, and so on, until you have the net ready to shape the 
 bottom for finishing. Now knot the strings a little closer 
 together, and cut off one string from every fifth pair. Con- 
 tinue to knot as before until you come to the fifth one, and 
 here take a string from each side of the single one and knot 
 these two together with the single one and then cut off the 
 single string. Continue in the same manner with the remain- 
 ing ones, cutting more .frequently, until the bottom is the 
 requisite shape. 
 
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