\> T iltSCE WANDERINGS AND EXCURSIONS NOETH WALES. BY THOMAS ROSCOE, ESQ. 4 WITH FIFTY ENGRAVINGS, FROM DRAWINGS BY CATTER3IOLE, COX, AND CRESWICK, AND AN ACCURATE MAP. LONDON: HENEY G. BOHN, YOEK STEEET, COVENT GAEDEN. 1853. PREFACE EVERY age must have its prevailing fashion, and that of the present is, assuredly, pictorial embellishment in all its forms and branches. Our most distinguished living poets, and, indeed, writers of every class, seldom now appear before the world unrecommended by the genius of the painter, and the magic influ- ence of the engraver. In describing scenery familiar to almost every eye, how little chance has the tourist at home of winning even a passing glance with- out borrowing some grace from the sister arts? This intimate and still growing union so unlike any other and so agreeable to the taste of the times seems to derive fresh strength from trial (the result of advantages mutually derived, and of that golden harvest not unfrequently reaped), merely by the plea; sant process of both parties agreeing to benefit each other, and confer pleasure upon an en- a 2 2071GG9 PREFACE. lightened public. Still, in an alliance every way so desirable, and calculated to gratify both the eye and the mind, the Author would fain enter his protest against the glory of letters being esteemed subsidiary to any other design, ranking, as it ought, first and pre- eminent in the march of intellect, as in the records of the human mind. For, without the slightest idea of challenging a controversy with his distinguished collator ateurs, was it not, he may ask, from the diviner thoughts of the Poet that the Painter first drew the fire and energy which emboldened him to follow, and strive to embody, those majestic creations of the muse of Homer, of Dante, and of Milton ? "Without these inspirations, could a Michael Angelo, a Raphael, or a Flaxman, have exhibited scenes to startle the imagina- tion and to awaken the finest emotions of the soul? But . if, sometimes, the arts arrayed in all their strength and majesty combine to awe and surprise (a combination happily for us not amenable to the laws), at others they are of a less imposing and more gentle character ; and the artist and the author may walk arm-in- PllEFACE. arm over the pleasant hills, by the green val- leys or the sunny shores, ever ready " to catch the Cynthia of the minute," to take Nature as they find her, in her more joyous, her passion- ate, her solitary, and her mournful moods. Here, at least, their highest ambition has been to interpret her language in a simple and faith- ful manner. Theirs has been less a work of labour than one of love. To the Author, in particular, no task was assigned beyond that of amusing the reader by the way- side, leaving the judicious artists to speak to his eye, and his imagination, in tints bright and manifold as the rainbow. Light and sketchy as he could make it drawn from no small variety of sources, anti- quarian, historical, descriptive, and anecdoti- cal the Author's invariable aim has been, to make his book a pleasant companion, and, like a pleasant companion, to throw a charm over an idle hour relieve the gloom of some pass- ing moment^ a solitary evening, a rainy day, the tedium, in short, incidental to every tourist's path, be he a wayfarer at home, or . far away. He has sought to convey with fidelity his vi PREFACE. impressions of the noble and picturesque scenery of our British Alps of the spirit of improvement everywhere manifested by the people of their frank bearing, and peculiar traits with occasional notices of the distin- guished characters warriors, bards, ornaments of the pulpit, or of the bench who may have shed lustre round their native land. Most of all, he could wish to convey some idea of the delight and the advantage to be derived, so near at hand, from a ramble in spring-time or autumn, among the hills and lakes of our ancient British home. CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. INTEODUCTOEY. CHAPTER II. CHESTED HAWAEDEN FLINT. CHAPTEE III. 1IOLYWELL ST. ASAPH EHUDDLAN BHYL ABEBGELY. CHAPTEE IV. VALE OF CLWYD DENBIGH EUTHIN WEEXHAM. CHAPTEE V. ETJABON WYNNSTAY CHIEK. CHAPTEE VI. LLANGOLLEN DINAS BEAN TALLE CEUCIS ABBEY COEWEN. CHAPTEE VII. CEENIOGE CEEIG Y DEUIDION PENTBE VOELAS PASS THEOUGH BETTWS Y COED NANT FBANGON. CHAPTEE VIII. PENBHYN CASTLE BANGOE MENAI BEIDGE CAENAETON ACROSS THE MENAI TO ANGLESEY, AND BY NEW- BOEOUGU TO HOLYHEAD. viii CONTENTS. CHAPTEE IX. HOLYHEAD SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE AMLWCH BEAUMABIS. CHAPTEE X. ABEB PENMAEN MAWE CONWAY LLANEWST. CHAPTEE XI. BETTWS T COED FALLS OF THE CONWAY AND MACHKO DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE CAPEL CUEIG. CHAPTEE XII. CAPEL CUEIG MOEL SIABOD EXCUESION TO THE GLTDEtt FA WE AND LLTN IDWAL, AND OVEE THE MOUNTAIN TO LLYN OGWEN. CHAPTEE XIII. LLANBEEIS SNOWDONIA ASCENT OF SNOWDON NANT GWTNANT. CHAPTEE XIV. LLANBEEIS TO BEDDGELEET BEDDGELEET ASCENT OF SNOWDON NANTLLE TEEMADOC TAN T BWLCH. CHAPTEE XV. HAELECH TAN T BWLCH MAENTWEOG FFESTINIOG. CHAPTEE XVI. TEAWSFTNYDD DOLGELLEY BAEMOUTH MACHYNLLETH, CHAPTEE XVII. DINAS MAWDDWY BALA LLANDKILLO WELSHPOOL MONTGOMEEY. LIST OP PLATES. 1. VIGNETTE TITLE PAGE 2. CHESTER opposite 10 3. BOLINGBROKE AND RICHARD II 26 4. FLINT CASTLE 30 5. ST. WINIFRED'S WELL 40 6. RHUDDLAN CASTLE 52 7. ST. ASAPH .. ...**? 62 8. VALE OF LLANGOLLEN 90 9. VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY.. 104 10. FALLS OF THE OGWEN 118 11. NANT FRANGON 122 12. PENRHYN CASTLE 126 13. MENAI BRIDGE 132 14. CARNARVON 138 15. CARNARVON CASTLE 142 16. SOUTH STACK LIGHT-HOUSE 152 17. BEAUMARIS 156 18. ENTRANCE TO MENAI STRAITS 161 19. FENMAEN MAWR 174 20. CONWAY CASTLE 180 21. CONWAY, VIEW OF THE TOWN 182 22. BETTWS Y COED 204 23. BRIDGE ON PENMACHNO ROAD 206 X LIST OF PLATES. PAGE. 24. DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE .... . . 210 25. FALLS OF THE MACHNO 212 26. PONT Y PAIR 216 27. RHAIADR Y WENOL 218 28. VALE OF THE LLUGWY 218 29. BEIDGE OVER THE LLUGWY 220 30. LLYN IDWAL .. .. .. 226 31. TRIFAEN MOUNTAIN 230 32. PASS OF LLANBERIS 232 33. CAUNANT MAWR .. 234 34. DOLBADERN TOWER 238 35. LLYN GWYNANT . 248 36. WOODEN BRIDGE, NEAR BEDDGELERT . . . . 250 37. LLEWELYN AND HIS BARONS 260 38. PONT ABERGLASLYN 266 39. HARLECH CASTLE 280 40. SNOWDON, FROM HARLECH 284 41. VALE OF FFESTINIOG 290 42. RHAIADR CWM 294 43. ON THE RIVER MAWDDACH 300 44. LLANELLTYD VALE . . . . 302 45. CADER IDRIS, FROM KYMMER ABBEY . . . . 308 46. BARMOUTH ..312 47. LAKE TAL Y LLYN ..316 48. RIVER AND MOUNTAINS AT DINAS MOWDDY 326 49. BALA LAKE 339 50. RESCUE OF THE COUNTESS DE BURGH 324 ROUTE OF MR. ROSCOE, WITH SOME OP THE OBJECTS DESERVING NOTICE, AND THE TOWNS, VILLAGES, ETC., TO THE EIGHT AND LEFT. Left. Caergwyle. Halkin Mountain. Route. CHESTER. Cathedral. Castle, Race Ground. Bridge. City Walls. Bridge over the Dee. Eaton Hall.* Broughton. HAWARDEN. Castle. Park. Euloe Castle. Northop. MOLD. Moel Fammau. Church. FLINT. Castle. Right. Higher-King's Ferry King's Ferry. Wepre Hall. River Dee. Parkgate, Cheshire. * The splendid mansion and beautiful grounds of the marquis of Westminster are courteously open to visitors during the summer months every day, excepting Saturday and Sunday, from eleven till three o'clock. Xll ROUTE OF MR. ROSCOE. Race Course. Dymerchion. Vale of Clwyd Abergeley. Moelfra Isa River Clwyd. Llanynys. Haute. Bagillt. Basingwerk Abbey. HOLY WELL. Hie Well. Downing. Mostyn Hall. CAERWYS. ST. ASAPH. Cathedral. Pengwern. RHUDDLAN. Castle. Ruins of Parlt. House. Diserth. RHYL. Foryd. Tan yr Ogo. Gwrych Castle. ABERGELEY. St. George. Mausoleum. Kinmel Park. Bodlewyddan. ST. ASAPH. DENBIGH! Gwannynog. Llanrliaiadr. The Sea. Ysceifiog. The Sea. Plas Heatoii ROUTE OF MR. ROSCOE. Xll Left. Moel Fammau Berwyn Moun- tains. Llangar. Yspytty Evan. Route. RUTHIN. Crown Inn, near Llandegla. Cross Offa's Dyke. WREXHAM. RUABON. Wynnstay. Park. House. Obelisk. Newbridge. CHIKK. Church. Castle. Aqueduct. LLANGOLLEN. Dinas Brdn. Bridge over the Dee. Plas Newydd. Valle Crucis Abbey. Eliseg's Pillar. New Inn. CORWEN. Caer Drewyn. Rhug. Druid Inn. Pont y Glyn. Cerig y Druidion. CERNIOGE. Pentre Yoelas. Right. Llanfwrog. Cyrn y Brain. Pont y Cysilltau. River Dee. River Alwen. Llechwedd. XIV ROUTE OP MR. ROSCOE. Left. Trifaen Moun tains. Pentir. Carnarvon Bay. The Sea. Route. BETTWS Y COED. CAPEL CURIG. Llyn Ogwen. Falls of ik Ogwen. Nant Frangon. Ogwen Bank. Slate Quarries. Bethesda. BANGOR. PenrJiyn Castle Garth Point. Cathedral. Plas Newydd. Menai Bridge. Britannia Bridge. Port Dinorwic. CARNARVON. Castle. Town Hall. Terrace. View from Twt-hill Over the Ferry. Newborough. Maldraeth Sands.. Llanbeulan. HOLYHEAD. Caer Oybi. Pier. Harbour. South Stack Light House. Bridge. Right. Carnedd David. /arnedd Llewelyn. Menai Straits. Plas Newydd. Menai Straits. Holyhead Bay. The Sea. ROUTE OP MR. ROSCOE. XV Left. Puffin Island. The Sea. Llyn Geirionydd. Route. BEAUMARIS. Castle. Baron Hill. Llanvaes Friary. Llangoed. Puffin Island. Paris Mountain. Copper Mines. Amlwch. By the Ferry to Aber. Levan Sands. Aber. RJiaiadr Mawr. Penmaen Mawr. CONWAY. Castle. Walls. Bridge. Old Houses. Diganwy. Gloddaeth. Llandidno. Great Orme's Head. Caerhyn. Trefriw. LLANRWST. Gwedir Castle. BETTWS Y COED. Dolwyddelan. Falls of the Machno. Beturn to Bettws. Rhaiadr y Wenol. Right. Menai Straits. Maenan Abbey. Carreg y Gwalch. Moel Siabod. XVI ROUTE OP MR. ROSCOE. Left. Snowdon. Traeth Bach. Moel wyn. Route. CAPEL CURIG. Excursion through. Valley of Mymbyr to Llyn Idwal and Llyn Ogwen. LLANBERIS. Waterfall. Lakes. Dolbadern Tower. Slate Quarries. Ascent of Snowdon Caunant Mawr. Dolbadern Tower. Snowdon. Nant Gwynant. BEDDGELERT. Church. Pont A berglaslyn. Ascent of Snowdon. Nantlle. TREMADOC. Penmorfa. Clynog. Nevin. Porthdinlleyn. Isle of Bardsey. PWLLHELI. Criccieth. By Sea to Harlech. HARLECH. Tan y Bwlch. Maentwrog. Ffestiniog. Right. Carnedd David. Moel Hebog. Carnarvon Bay. Rhinog Fawr. ROUTE OP MR. ROSCOE. XV11 Left. Arrenig. Nannau. River Mawd- dach. Arran k k Mawddwy. Route. Trawsfynydd. Pistyll Cain. Rhaiadr Du, at Dolymelynen. LLANELLTYD. DOLGELLEY. Cader Idris. Nannau Park. Kyminer Abbey. Tal y Llyn. Kymmer Abbey. BARMOUTH. Return to Dolgelley. Cader Idris. Tal y Llyn. MACHYNLLETH. Mallwyd. Dinas Mawddwy. BALA. Vale of Edeirnion. Llandrillo. Pistyll Rhaiadr. Llanrhaiadr yn Mochnant. WELSHPOOL. Powis Castle. Berriew. MONTGOMERY. Sight. The Sea. Towyn. Berwyn Mountains. ON THE PKONUNCIATION OP SOME LETTERS IN THE WELSH LANGUAGE. C is always hard, as Jc. Capel Ourig is pronounced Kapple Kerrig. Ch is a guttural, sounded as in the German ich, or the Gaelic loch. Dd, whether at the beginning, middle, or end of a word, is an aspirated d, and has the sound of th in the words the, through ; thus Bedd, a grave, is pronounced Beth ; and the village of Beddgelert, Bethgelert. F has the sound of the English v. Ff, as/ English. I, ee, as in kill ; or, if circumflexed, like our ee in been; thus cil is pronounced keel. LI is an aspirated 7, and has more the sound of chl than thl ; thus Llangollen is pronounced Chlangochlen. 0, as o in the English word don ; or, if circumflexed, as o in the English word tone. Fh, eph, an aspirated 4?, precisely as /in English. S, as in English. Th, eth, an aspirated t, as in thmJc. U sounds like i in limb when circumflexed, as ee in been. JFis always sounded as oo, and the single s, as in. noose; thus Bettws is pronounced Bettoose. Y, in the last syllable of words, is 1 sounded as in the English word hymn ; the possessive pronouns excepted, which, as well as all syllables preceding the last, are sounded as o in done. GLOSSARY OF WORDS OF FEEQUENT OCCURRENCE. Ab, or Ap, a prefix to proper names, signifying the son of. Aber, the fall of one water into another. Afon, a river. Al, power ; very ; most. Allt, the side of a hill; a woody cliff. Ar, upon ; bordering upon. Bdch, little ; small. Ban, high ; lofty ; tall. Banau, eminences. Bedd, a grave ; a sepulchre. Betting, a station ; a place between hill and vale. Blaen, the end or extremity. Bod, an abode ; a residence. B6n, the base. Braich, an arm ; a branch. Bron, a breast ; the slope of a hill. Bryn, a mount or hill. Bwlch, a hollow ; a break ; a pass. Bychan, little. Cad, defending. Cader, a fortress or stronghold ; a chair. Cae, a hedge ; a field. Caer, a wall or mound for defence ; a fort ; a city. Cantref, a division of a county. Capel, a chapel or church. Cam, a prominence ; a heap. Carnedd, a heap of stones. Car eg, a stone. Castell, a castle ; a fortress. Cefn, the back ; the upper side ; a Cil, a retreat ; a back ; a recess. Clawdd, a dike ; ditch ; or trench. Clogwyn, a precipice. C6ch, red. Coed, a wood. Cors, a bog. Craig, a rock. Croes, a cross. Crug, a mound or hillock. Cwm, a valley ; a dingle. Cymmer, a confluence. DS, the south. Dinas, a city ; a fortified hill. D6i, a meadow or ground in the bend of a river. Drws, a door ; a pass. Dd, black. Dwr, fluid ; water. Dyffryn, a valley. Eglviys, a church. Esgavr, a long ridge. Ffordd, a passage ; road ; or way. Ffynnon, a well or spring. Garth, a mountain or hill that bends. Qallt, a woody cliff. Oelli, the grove. Qlan, a brink ; a side or shore. GLOSSARY. Olds, blue ; green ; verdant. Glyn, glen ; a deep vale. Gwaelod, a bottom. Gwern, a watery meadow. Gwydd, wood ; woody or wild. Gwyn, white fair ; clear. Hafod, a summer dwelling.* Hen, old. ffendref, the old residence. Is, lower ; inferior. Llan, a church ; an enclosure. Lkcli, a flat stone or flag ; a smooth cliff. Llwyd, gray ; hoary ; brown. Llwyn, a wood or grove. Llyn, a lake ; a pool. Llys, a palace ; hall ; or court. Maen, a stone. Maenor, a manor. Maes, a field. Mall, bad ; rotten. Mawr, great ; large. Melm, a mill. Mod, fair ; naked ; a smooth moun- tain. Monad, an insolated situation. Morfa, a marsh. Mynydd, a mountain. Nant, a brook ; river ; ravine. Newydd, new ; fresh. Pant, a hollow or ravine. Pen, a head ; top ; or end. Penmaen, the stone end. Pentref, a village ; a suburb. Pistyll, a spout or cataract. Plds, a hall or palace. Plwyf, a parish. Pont, a bridge. Porth, a gate. Pwll, a ditch ; a pit. Rhaiadr, a cataract. Jtfdw, an ascent. Rh6s, a moist plain or meadow. Rhddd, red. Rhyd, a ford. a causeway. Swydd, a shire. 2W, s. the head ; the front. Tan, under, below. Tir, the earth ; land. Tomen, a mound. Traeih, a sand. Tref, or Tre, a house ; a town. Tri, three. Troed, a foot. Trwyn, a point. Twr, a tower.. 2fy, a house. Tyddyn, a small farm. Tyn, a stretch. Tywyn, a strand. Uchaf, highest. F, of. Tn, in ; at. Frays, an island. Yspytty, an almshouse. Ystrad, a street or road. * In some Welsh words V is sometimes used instead of F. WANDERINGS IN NORTH WALES. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. If countries we compare, And estimate the blessing which they share, Though patriots flatter, still shall wisdom find An equal portion dealt to all mankind ; As different good, by art or nature given To different nations, makes their blessings even. GOLDSMITH. OLD associations, and the pleasure derived from excursions in the Principality in earlier days, and under brighter skies, were not without their influence in directing the " noiseless tenor of my way " upon re- turning from other and distant scenes. Ties of early friendship, warm greeting, and hospitality, with plea- sant companionship, gave an additional zest to the charm of rambling through a beautiful country, com- bining so many features to interest the imagination and to allure the eye. The old British birthplace of elf and fairy lore, famed alike for triumphs of the sword and prizes of the lyre to how many recollections did it give rise, as I beheld its most lovely and beautiful scenes still un- 2 INTRODUCTORY. changed, and looked back to those " white days " so indelibly " marked in memory's tablets " with the thoughts of Beddgelert,* Carnarvon, Llanrwst, Llan- gollen, and other spots no less socially endeared. Like the long-banished exile, from some far-off clime, catch- ing a first glimpse of home, I seemed to renew my existence as the scenes familiar to my boyhood dawned upon me again I breathed the freshness of my morn- ing hours, and impressions never to be wholly effaced filled my mind with mournful pleasure. Severe mental toil, like physical labour, is thought to give the truest relish to intervals of enjoyment and repose. Relaxation and pleasure were my chief objects ; yet, strange to say, a strong feeling of the fleeting tenure of all human enjoyments filled my heart as I again bent my steps towards the ancient retreats of British independence. f With thoughts more awake to the memorable past, and to the scenes before me, from * The names of places in Wales are highly significant. They indicate the peculiar feature of the locality, or record some historic fact. It will be instructive as well as amusing to the tourist to decipher them as they occur ; for he will thus gain some knowledge of the Welsh lan- guage. Beddgelert, the grave of Gelert ; Carnarvon, that is, Caer yu Arfon, the strong city in the land contiguous to Mona or Anglesea ; Llanrwst, the church of St. Ehystyd or St. Restitutus ; Llangollen, the church of Collen, one of the old Welsh saints. + This term is appropriately applied to Wales. It never has been conquered. Its annexation to England in the time of the first Edward, by means of a prince born in Carnarvon, and the descent of the English sovereigns from Catherine Tudor, queen of Henry VII., the daughter of a Welsh chieftain, give to the Celt a property in the kingdom which the Saxon, perhaps, would look for in vain ; and it is worthy of remark, that the queen of England inherits the name as well as the throne of a British princess and heroine, Boadicea, the Latinized, form of Buddug, signifying Victoria or Victory. INTRODUCTORY. 3 the circumstance of my previous rambles, I recognised many a favourite spot of my summer and autumnal haunts, when I was wont to spend many days and weeks in exploring the wildest recesses of the old glens, and lakes, and hills. And where is the human being who has not had reason to contemplate, with sensations too strong for utterance, some well-remembered spot ? Who has not felt himself belonging to the past, even while, by his anticipations, he has turned tremblingly to catch the shadows of the mysterious future ? It is in the presence of the mouldering monuments of ages past away of a beloved country whose fame and splendour have vanished of the old woods and hills no longer his own that man can best sympathize with the transient show, and sufferings of humanity, like the vanquished Roman who sat amidst the ruins of a fallen empire and wept. In its monumental remains and natural grandeur with the foot of heroic nations everywhere upon its soil, no country presents objects of more peculiar and varied interest than Wales. The prize for contending invaders, it was long the stronghold of genuine British valour, and maintained for upwards of twelve centuries unequal conflicts with nations far more powerful, yield- ing only upon agreed conditions, and the privilege of being governed by a prince born in the country. And have not the sons of British kings, ever since the last of its heroic Llewelyns,* assumed the name of Wales as the proudest of their titles ? Nothing more clearly proves the importance attached * Llewelyn ; another illustration of the remark contained in a pre- vious note : Llew-elyn, the lion-enemy. B 2 4 INTRODUCTORY. to its possession than this simple historical fact. Nor does the voluminous character of the works devoted to its illustration tend to lessen the curiosity with which we retrace its annals, and call to mind its former power ; or diminish the pleasure with which, at the present time, we contemplate its great natural advantages its in- creasing usefulness and prosperity. No traveller enters the Principality without being surprised with evidences of its singular history ; its numerous antiquities being no less striking than its splendid and romantic scenery. Among the few real enjoyments of life, none, per- haps, surpass those open to the enlightened traveller, in the deep interest excited by historical associations in the act of comparing the present with the past, and marking the advances made by different races of people in the course of knowledge and consequent civilization and prosperity. There is, indeed, one object in such a pursuit yet more laudable and ennobling, given only to minds like Howard's to appreciate, the godlike pleasure of travelling, not to gratify his own tastes and pleasures, but for the relief and happiness of his fellow- men. The mere acquaintance, nevertheless, with the social condition of a nation at different periods, considered in relation to modern discovery and improvement, and collated with the progress of its neighbours, must always be productive of advantage ; and in no way can this knowledge be so effectually acquired as by culti- vating a personal communion with the distinctive fea- tures and characteristics of those nations, independent and separate in their aboriginal state, but which have at last become absorbed into one great community, INTRODUCTORY. 5 subject nearly to the same laws and government. How diverse, in all leading points, the genius and tempera- ment of the Scotch, the Irish, and the Welsh ! while all as strangely differ from the great nation with which they have gradually become incorporated. To estimate rightly the capabilities of each their moral, intellectual, and physical energies, and their actual social position in connection with European civi- lization, we must not only examine their existing institutions, but we must find the key of these, and their present character, in their earlier history in their prevailing superstitions in their heroic strug- gles and in the degrees of social emancipation which have resulted from them. These it will be my business to illustrate, as the different subjects present them- selves, in the course of my wanderings through the northern districts of this interesting country. CHAPTER II. CHESTER HAWARDEN FLINT. Fair Chester, call'd of old Carlegion ; whilst proud Rome her conquests here did hold, Of those her legions known the faithful station then, So stoutly held to task by those near North Wales men ; Yet by her own right name had rather called be, As her the Britons term'd, the Fortress upon Dee, Than vainly she would seem a miracle to stand, Th' imaginary work of some huge giant's hand ; Which if such ever were, tradition tells not who. MICHAEL DRAYTON. IN passing through CHESTER, the Deva of the old Britons, and the Eoman " City of the Legions,"* too many interesting associations arise to be passed over in silence, although she is not seated within the limits of the Principality. Justly proud of her ancient loyalty, her high-horn families, and the unbroken spirit exhi- bited in all her vicissitudes, she is still more enviable, perhaps, for the quiet of these her later days. The extensive sweep of her once formidable and castellated walls proclaims her former greatness ; and, at every * Humffrey Lloyd, in his "Breviarie of Britayne," says, "The Englishmen call it Legancestre, and afterward clippyng y e name shorter, called it Chester ; and the citizens doo glory that they have the body of Henry the Fourth, emperour, whome they affirme to have yelded up the empyre, and have betaken him selfe to an hermite's life. And so are they likewise perswaded of Herald, who was the last kynge of the Danish, bloud." CHESTER. 7 step, the thoughtful stranger is reminded that he beholds a " city of the past." Rising boldly above the Dee, its singular formation and angular streets attest its Roman origin; while altars, arms, statues, coins, and relics of battles, equally prove that it was a grand military station. As its name indeed denotes, from the Latin Castrum or Castra, observable also in that of some of our most considerable towns, Chester was one of the central points chosen for a great encampment of the invaders ; and, having extended its dominions over the surround- ing district, continued to preserve its power after its founders had withdrawn their forces. Its possession became an object of contention to the Saxons, and the more advanced portion of the ancient Britons, who had formed their stronghold in the interior hills, where they maintained their position against every invader. It would appear to have fallen now to one and now to the other, and is known to have been the last of the strong places which submitted to the foreign yoke. As a frontier fortress, likewise, Chester was stoutly con- tested by the different belligerents of those stirring and unruly times, when the victor and the vanquished so often and suddenly changed places with each other. The Saxon historians have recorded with evident triumph, that their sovereign, Edwin, was rowed by six kings (probably Welsh princes) on the waters of the Dee. The modern history of Chester presents nothing remarkable, nor does it appear to have kept pace in population or prosperity with many other places. Its population in 1774 was 14,713 ; in 1831 it had reached 21,000. Perhaps if the Dee had been a more navi- CHESTER. gable river, Chester would have other matters to boast of than its petty manufactures and ancient fairs. The city is divided by four principal streets, named East- gate, Northgate, Bridge, and Westgate. On a level with the warehouses is the carriage-road ; over the warehouses are long galleries, called rows* which occupy the space between the shops and the street ; and the upper rooms being built over the rows affords protection to pedestrians in wet weather. Picturesque in its appearance, the ancient edifices and curiously constructed rows give to the whole place a singularly quiet and solemn air, in striking contrast with the bustle of other cities, and blending well with its venerable aspect and the long-departed renown of its once formidable castle. Yet with the exception of the solitary specimen, called Julius Caesar's Tower, erected by Hugh Lupus, nothing is to be seen of the ancient fortress ; the old feudal structure having been destroyed in the year 1786, to make room for modern edifices of more public utility. Upon its site now appear the spacious and handsome buildings of the new county prison, the shire-hall, &c., admirably adapted to their several objects, from plans executed under the direction of the late Mr. Harrison, who succeeded in combining an appearance of exterior symmetry and magnificence with interior accommodations of the most approved and superior kind. The principal entrance to the Shire Hall through a "These rows," says Mr. Pennant, "appear to have been the same with the ancient vestibules, and to have been a form of building preserved from the time that the city was possessed by the Romans. They were built before the doors, midway between the streets and the houses, and were the places where dependants waited for the coming out of their patrons." CHESTER. 9 portico of twelve columns in double rows more than twenty feet high and three feet in diameter, each con- sisting of a single stone, is at once elegant and im- posing. The court-room, of a half-circular shape, is airy and spacious, and well lighted from above. The County Gaol is situated at the back, on a some- what lower level, from which the prisoners ascend by a flight of steps into the dock. Attached to the prison are several distinct yards, where the inmates can take the air and exercise at appointed intervals. There are forty rooms distinct from each other, and fourteen soli- tary cells set apart for the most guilty or unruly among the condemned. Planking the two extremities of this pile are seen two uniform light structures, one of which forms the bar- racks appropriated to the use of the officers and men of the garrison, the second consisting of the armoury, where there were generally deposited not less than forty thousand stand of arms in constant readiness, besides other munitions of war. From the noble city walls, the most perfect in Bri- tain, embracing a circuit of two miles, the Welsh mountains are seen to great advantage, mingled with a rich variety of landscape. It was from the Phoenix Tower, the only one now left on the walls, that Charles I. beheld the triumph of the Parliament in the battle of Rowton Moor. More recently the follow- ing has been carved upon it : KING CHARLES STOOD ON THIS TOWER SEPTR. 24, 1645, AND SAW HIS ARMY DEFEATED ON ROWTON MOOR. 10 CHESTER. The Cathedral is another of those monuments of which this once majestic city may justly boast.* It stands at the north-east part of the city, but being built of the red stone belonging to the neighbourhood, the exterior has a coarse and dilapidated appearance. The altar-piece, which is of very fine tapestry, is executed after one of the cartoons of Raphael, and represents the history of Elymas the sorcerer. This work of art is said to be superior to anything of the kind in the Vatican. The river Dee runs close to the city ; over it is a bridge of recent construction, one of the finest in the kingdom, the span of the arch which clasps the river being two hundred feet, the width thirty-five feet, and the height sixty feet above the level of the water, f There are two lines of railway meeting at the station in Brook-street, one running nearly in a straight line to the Grand Junction line, and thus connecting this city with the metropolis and many important towns and cities in England ; the other branching in a northerly direction to Birkenhead, opposite Liverpool, passen- gers being conveyed across the Mersey by steamboats. It is in contemplation to extend the Chester and Crewe Railway by way of Conway, Bangor, and the Menai * In a volume of lithographic views, by Mr. I. S. Prout, published by Messrs. Boult and Catherall, are some sketches of this venerable building, also of St. John's Church, the houses in Bridge-street, and other remarkable objects of antiquity. They are very well executed, and form a volume of great interest and beauty, illustrative of this unique "and curious city. t This bridge was built by Mr. Trubshaw, of Hey wood, Staffordshire, from designs made by the late Thomas Harrison, Esq. CHESTER. 11 Bridge to Holyhead,* forming a continuous line of railway from London to the latter place, and thereby shortening the time of transit between London and Dublin. Near Chester is the magnificent seat of the marquis of Westminster Eaton Hall ; erected from the designs of Porden, on the site of the old brick mansion, built by the celebrated Vanbrugh. The architectural eleva- tion and the internal arrangements and decorations of this noble mansion are in excellent keeping, and present a tout ensemble of exquisite grandeur and beauty. The traveller may spend a day of surpassing interest in its inspection, and amongst the rare pictures, cabinets, and other works of art which it contains. The entrance to the park, which is of great extent, is through a superb Gothic building, not far from the new bridge. This gateway has recently been erected from designs by Mr. Jones, architect, of Chester, and is executed in Bath stone, after the model of St. Augustine's Gate at Canterbury. There are some records connected with this ancient place, which, while they may appear too trifling to engage the pen of the grave historian, and standing associated with some absurdities of personal character, may be deemed unfit to be placed in the procession of national events, are yet just the sort of things which a painstaking traveller would gather up, not only as * This railway is now completed. Skirting the rock-bound northern coast of the Principality, and spanning with gigantic stride an arm of the sea, it may be regarded as one of the boldest efforts of human daring. It seems as though art as well as nature rejoiced in making Wales the theatre of mighty and magnificent attractions. 12 CHESTER. exhibiting the characteristic traits peculiar to the varied states of society, but as showing that the great princi- ples of human nature the household affections with their corresponding solicitude, the grosser appetites with their strange whimsicalities, the ready native wit always in full play, are the same in all ages. The good people of Chester, nay of the whole county, have been remarked by the chroniclers Speed and Fuller, and by our old friend Michael Drayton, the poet, for being excellent housekeepers, and " not to be paralleled in England for their hospitality." One of those quaint annalists of the times, belonging to the city, puts it down in his diary, with the most agreeable naivete, as nothing very remarkable in the Chester men of those days, that, " in the year 1489, when St. Peter's steeple was pointed, a goose was eaten by the parson and others on the top thereof, and part cast into the four streets below." Dr. Cole, a commissioner in the time of Queen Mary, and a zealous Roman Catholic divine, was proceeding to Ireland, with a secret warrant against the Protestants of that country, and stopped one night at Chester. The mayor in his municipal character waited upon him, and he unguardedly spoke of the cruel business in which he was engaged, and took out his commission in the pre- sence of the hostess, who had a brother, a member of that communion, in Dublin. When the mayor left him, he politely attended him down stairs, and the hostess in the mean time took the important document from the box, and substituted in its place a pack of cards, with the knave of clubs placed uppermost. The doctor on his return, perfectly unconscious of what had CHESTER. 13 been done, put up the box, and on his arrival in the Irish metropolis, presented it in form at the castle, in presence of the lord deputy and the privy council, pur- posely assembled to examine its momentous contents. His lordship opened it, and the whole party, as well as the commissioner himself, were in the utmost astonish- ment and consternation to see the knave of clubs make his appearance amidst the solemn conclave, without any script to account for his knave's face at that unwelcome moment. Cole, burning with mortification, assured the assembly that the box had contained a commission, but why it was not there, and how the cards came into its place, he was as ignorant as they. Disappointed and chagrined he returned to the English court, and being in high favour with Mary, soon obtained a fresh com- mission; but before he could again arrive in Ireland, the queen died. The name of this bold and quick- witted woman was Elizabeth Edmunds, and her name- sake, the good Queen Bess, when she came to the throne, hearing of this adroit stratagem, rewarded the woman with a pension of forty pounds a year for her life. To this act was owing, probably, the safety of the Protestants of the " Green Isle." The same veritable diary, which has been before referred to, contains an entry, that in 1617 "King James visited Chester, and was presented by the body corporate with a gilt cup, and a hundred jacobins of gold, as a rich token of the attachment of the city to his crown and person." Of this expedition Mr. Yorke relates a whimsical story. " When the king," he says, "was on the road near Chester, he was met by such numbers of the Welsh, who came out of curiosity to 14 CHESTER. see him, the weather was so dry, and the roads so dusty, that he was nearly suffocated. He was completely at a loss in what manner to rid himself of them civilly ; at last one of his attendants, putting his head out of the coach, said, ' It is his majesty's pleasure that those who are the best gentlemen shall ride forwards/ AAvay scampered the Welsh as if Dio the devil, the black rob- ber of Cardigan, had been at their heels, and but one solitary man was left behind. ' And so, sir/ says the king, who was fond of a joke, ' you are not a gentle- man, then?' c Oh, yes, and please your majesty, hur is as goot a shentleman as the rest, but hur ceffyl,* Got help hur, is not so good ! ' ' Having bidden farewell to Chester at an early hour, I commenced in earnest my walk, "whilst yet the blushing dawn out of the cheerful east," as the quaint Michael Dray ton pleasantly calls it, "was ushering in the day," towards the elf and wizard land, passing into the Principality near the higher King's Ferry over the Dee. It was a lovely morning, the river gradually assumed a deeper glow, as it reflected the brilliant rain- bow tints of the glorious sunrise, while a soft still haze hung over its banks, tinging every object with a dewy light, till it melted in the hilly distance. I beheld not, indeed, around me the stern and majestic features of Alpine scenery none of the varied brilliancy, the deep purple glow, and the rich mingled hues ; but there was a gentleness and loveliness in the hour and the scene, a charm in the deep peace and solitude of that morning, which left an indelible impression on my memory. It * His horse. HAWARUEN. 15 was the more vivid, perhaps, from this having been one of the earliest of my rambles when I explored the castles of North Wales, then filled with the buoyant hopes, as now with the vanished dreams, of youth. I felt a strange delight in recalling the visions of those days, as I pursued my quiet path towards HAWARDEN,* which town I reached before the inmates of the Glynne Arms a middling kind of a way-side inn were ready to receive visitors. The only objects of attention at this place are the mouldering walls of the antique castle, and the solitary glens about the park. The ruins of the castle occupy an elevated point not far from the town, and within the park of Sir S. R. Glynne. Little more than fragments of the former towers and keep remain ; indeed a con- siderable portion of the ruin was itself obscured by heaps of rubbish, till the late Sir John Glynne had them removed, and the foundations laid open to view. It was constructed in a pentagonal form; on one side was a spacious gateway, and on the other a kind of bar- bican. At one angle was situated the keep or citadel, a circular tower, still nearly entire, and which forms one of the most picturesque objects that strike the eye on first approaching " its ancient solitary reign." Other portions consist of the relics of the vast mouldering walls of massive donjons, and, in one part, of a long flight of steps, at the bottom of which was a door and a * Hawarden. This name is Saxon. We find it written in Dooms- day Book "Haordine." It has, however, a Welsh appellation, "Pen- nard Halawg," or " The Headland above the Sea Lake." At the base of the eminence on which it stands are the Saltney marshes, which formerly were covered with the tide. 16 HAWARDEN. drawbridge, crossing a ravine to another division of the castle, embracing, most probably, the prison, thus fear- fully secured. On all sides it was surrounded by deep chasms and fosses, and, from its extensive plan and broad founda- tions, it has the appearance of having been erected at different periods of having been sometimes defaced, and at others restored, according to the vicissitudes and fortune of war. Dating soon after the Conquest, it came into posses- sion of Roger Fitzvalerine, a son of one of the adven- turers who followed the Norman conqueror. It was subsequently held, on the tenure of seneschalship, by the family of Monthault, of the earls of Chester, and finally annexed by Henry III. to the crown. After this it came into the possession of Prince Llewelyn, and was stormed by his brother David. On the sub- jection of the country, Hawarden was granted to the house of Salisbury, and afterwards to that of Stanley. From Thomas, earl of Derby, it descended to his second wife Margaret, countess of Richmond, and mother of Henry VII. In 1495, that monarch is stated to have honoured the castle with a visit, to enjoy the pleasures of the chase; but his real motive was to ingratiate himself with the earl her husband, after the ungrateful act of executing his brother, Sir William Stanley, to whose assistance he was mainly indebted for his crown. The^ estates continued in the family till the execution of James, earl of Derby, in 1651 ; and, not long after, they were purchased by Serjeant Glynne, from the commissioners of sequestration. It was at Hawarden that the ambitious earl of HAWARDEN. 17 Leicester, after securing the persons of the king and his son Edward, entered into that fatal league with Llewelyn, which compelled Henry to surrender the sovereignty of Wales, with the homage of its baronial suffrage, which were transferred to the Welsh prince. In the last struggle for independence, it was surprised by David, his brother, on the night of Palm-Sunday, and the entire garrison put to the sword. This prince had acted with equal perfidy towards Edward I., his benefactor, and towards Llewelyn. Having accepted an English barony, and a seat in the House of Peers, he was condemned, like the duke of Hamilton in later times, to die the death of a traitor, as an English subject. The mansion of Hawarden Park, the seat of the family, is a stately structure, erected by Sir John Glynne, in 1752. In 1809 it received some magni- ficent additions, and then assumed the form of a castel- lated edifice, with antique-looking windows and turrets in the style of the thirteenth century. The park is of considerable extent, pleasingly diver- sified with hill and dale, wood, water, and other accom- paniments to enhance the beauty of landscape scenery, the whole backed by the high range of hills which divides Flintshire from Denbighshire. The cawing of the rooks the stateliness of the trees the extreme verdure and softness of the grass the ivy-grown ruins and the rippling of the stream, present a series of interesting objects to the eye, and excite a correspondent succes- sion of pleasurable sensations in the heart of the tra- veller, as he pursues his walk over these grounds. The last fleecy clouds passed from the horizon before the splendour of a glowing noon, as I, on the following c 18 EULOE CASTLE. day, commenced my walk towards the lonely and wooded retreats of Euloe. Though scarcely more than a quarter of a mile from the main road, so secluded is the spot, that a guide is usually engaged to thread the paths leading to its time-worn and romantic castle.* The fortress stood on the edge of a glen, whose accli- vous sides were clothed with a dense forest. In old Leland's time it was described as a " ruinous castelet or pile," but now only the fragments of a massy tower and broad dilapidated walls, consisting of a sort of horn-work, present themselves to the eye. At one end of an ancient oblong court, overgrown with weeds and moss, stand the ivy-mantled porch and turrets lone and neglected as the scene, and forcibly corresponding with the description in Gray's Elegy ; the deserted abbey and the modern hamlet, with its rustic church in the distance, giving all the feeling of truth to the touching reflections of the poet. The sighing of the wind through the deep ravine below the tower alone interrupts the solemn silence that broods around ; and on the other side of the ruins appears the broad, deep moat, where the old drawbridge once stood. From the summit of the tower the traveller beholds, over thickly-wooded vales and glens, a wildly picturesque prospect, which cannot fail to impress him with an idea of solitude almost as profound as if he had stood amidst the spreading forests and rivers of the new world. The low narrow defiles of Coed Euloe, and the vici- nity, became memorable by the defeat of Henry II., * Euloe Castle is situated to the right of the mail road leading towards Bangor, the path branching off about half a mile beyond the intersection of the road from the King's Ferry to Mold. EULOE CASTLE. 19 when commanding in person, during one of his most formidable invasions of Wales. The sons of Owen Gwynedd permitted the enemy to approach along the passes of the country, till they were gradually en- tangled in the obscurity of the surrounding woods, and narrow glens and valleys. The onslaught was terrific ; their enemies were thrown into confusion, and pursued with slaughter into the heart of the English camp. It would seem that there is no tradition extant respecting the foundation of Euloe Castle, its origin having defied the research of even that patriarch of tourists, Mr. Pennant. But there is sufficient reason to conclude, that it was built by one of the lords of Tegengle, or by Henry himself, as a stronghold to protect his troops from future disasters like those already mentioned.* Having indulged my curiosity in exploring the relics of feudal power and splendour, enjoyed the pictu- resque views, the melancholy charm of this wild, secluded spot, I prepared to revisit the still more memorable Castle of Flint. Continuing along the highway as far as Northop, a village eleven miles from Chester, the road is reached * Below Euloe Castle, and yet sufficiently elevated to command a beautiful view of the estuary of the Dee and the adjacent lands of Cheshire, studded with villages and mansions, stands Wepre Hall, the seat of the late Major Jones and his lady, the kind-hearted, generous, and dignified representatives of some of the oldest families in Wales. What would we not give for " one sweet hour," as of yore, within its pleasant walls ; or to sit at the banquet, around which were gathered the Mostyns, the Glynnes, and the Dundasses of that day, in happy reunion and forgetfulness of party politics ! Alas ! "The hall of Cynddylan is lonely to-day." C 2 * 20 EULOE CASTLE. which connects the towns of Flint and Mold. The latter place is three miles to the left, in the pleasant valley watered by the Alyn, hacked by the long range of hills which divides the counties of Flint and Den- bigh, beyond which the lofty and black Moel Fammau rears its lofty peak, on which was erected in 1810 a column one hundred and fifty feet in height, to com- memorate the jubilee in the reign of King George III. From this spot the high lands of Cumberland, Derby- shire, Shropshire, and Carnarvonshire, are visible in clear weather. Mold, or as it is called in Welsh, Yr Wyddgrug the conspicuous barrow,* from a mount which stands at the north end of the town, is a populous and nourish- ing place, surrounded by many lead and coal mines. The church, which is dedicated to St. Mary, has con- siderable attractions in the elaborate carving on the top walls of the building, and in the light 'and elegant clustered pillars that adorn the interior, having between the arches angel-figures, bearing shields ornamented with religious and heraldic devices. There are some * These "barrows " or tumuli are interspersed, more or less, through- out the whole of Wales, and are well worthy the examination of the tourist. Antiquarians are divided in opinion as to the purposes for which they were raised. Some regard them as fortresses in a yet very primitive state of warfare ; others, as Druidical altars or burial-places. A few consider them as designed to convey signals from post to post in time of war ; and, in some places, their position and number seem to favour this conjecture. The probability, however, is, that they were designed to answer more than one, if not all of these uses ; just as our churches are temples for worship, and frequently the burial-places of our dead ; or, as the yew planted in our churchyards answered the twofold purpose of adornment and of supplying our yeomen with ready material for their bows and lances. EULOE CASTLE. monuments also in the church that would detain for a while the curious and the antiquary. From the church- yard may be seen Bailey Hill, where once stood the old fortress, scarcely a vestige of which now remains. About a mile west of Mold, is Maes Gannon the Field of Germanus, where the Britons, headed by the two bishops, Germanus and Lupus, gained a complete victory over the Picts and Scots, in the Easter week of 448. Before the threatening hosts joined in conflict, Germanus rode along the ranks, and instructed the soldiers to attend to the word given by the priests* and to raise with uplifted voices that battle-cry throughout the whole army. Germanus pronounced the word Alleluia ! The priests repeated it thrice, the eager host took up the sound, and shouted it forth in triumph. The neighbouring hills sent back the alleluia as the Britons charged upon their northern foes. The enemy were thunderstruck, and fled in affright on all sides. The victorious army hotly pursued the flying rout, and but few escaped their vindictive swords to tell the dismal story of the overthrow. A pillar marks the spot, erected in 1736, by Nehemiah Griffiths, Esq. It is these concomitants of history that give such a lively interest even to the tamest scenes of nature. The intelligent traveller as he stands on the Field of Gar- mon will not fail to recall to his mind that fearful onslaught of armed men, the terrible cries of the stricken and flying foe, and the alleluias that issued from a thousand living lips, and were reverberated by the senseless rocks. Nay, the remembrance will be even more vivid by the contrast which presents itself, in the level green sward scarcely pressed by the foot of a 22 FLINT. solitary wanderer, or the ploughman's gleesome whistle, as he drives his share over the lea, or the busy harvest- men as they shout their song of joy and peace, while carrying from the field their last load of the season's treasures. The town of FLINT, or Colsul, or Coleshill, as it was anciently called, has all the appearance of a fallen and deserted capital, presenting evidences of its former extent and importance in long lines of half-dilapidated edifices and broken streets ; and in its rapid decline it seemfe to have partaken of the fate of its once towering and lordly fortress. Its loss of influence was acce- lerated by the removal of the general sessions, and the competition of powerful rivals : and though at the head of one of the ancient shires of North Wales, there seems little promise of its restoration to vanished great- ness or civic prosperity. From the situation of the place, it has every appearance of having owed its origin to fierce and perilous times, its entire struc- ture presenting the aspect of a warlike station to resist the repeated shocks of a people newly subdued. The primitive foundation was doubtless that of a Roman encampment, the site being rectangular, and having a deep wide fosse, with huge ramparts, besides four great equilateral gates, which can be traced upon the same military foundation. The town is situated upon the banks of the navigable estuary of the Dee, nearly oppo- site to Parkgate, in Cheshire, between which place and Flint ferry-boats -ply daily, forming a communication with Liverpool.* .Although the county gaol is here, Flint. This town, though scarcely more than an hour's distance by water from Chester, a city remarkable for the excellent pronunciation FLINT CASTLE. 23 where prisoners are confined, yet the recent prosperity of the neighbouring town of Mold has occasioned the removal of the assizes to that town. The imposing ruins of the Castle are seen on the north-east of the town, and stand in bold relief upon a rock jutting from the south bank into the sands, which are washed by the sea at spring tides. It is built in a square, with large round towers at three of the corners, with a fourth a little disjoined and still more massy. This last is known by the name of the Double Tower, and was connected with the main edifice by a draw- bridge. Beneath it is a circular gallery, with four arched openings into a central area more than twenty- two feet in diameter. In one part this gallery slopes towards the interior, and, again ascending, communi- cates with an upper range still more central, which formed the ancient donjon.* To this stronghold, we are informed by Froissart, the unfortunate Richard II. retreated, as a place of the greatest security ; and here he was subsequently delivered into the hands of Boling- broke, duke of Lancaster, an event which, it will be seen, has afforded scope for the genius of an artist familiar with the historical characteristics of " olden times/' The scene between Richard and his haughty kins- of its English, retains the Welsh language almost in its original purity, verifying the old monkish prophecy, not that of Taliesin : " Still shall they chant their Maker's praise, Still keep their language and their lays ; But none of all their land retain, Save Wallia's wild uncultured plain ! " * Pennant. 24 FLINT CASTLE. man is perhaps one of the most remarkable and pathetic in the range of British history, and throws around these ruined precincts a still sterner air of melancholy interest and truth. On the attainder of Vere, earl of Oxford, Flint Castle came into possession of the earl of Northumberland, who had the baseness, under the mask of a peace- maker, to entrap the sovereign whom he professed to serve into the hands of his enemy and aspiring rival. As if anxious to effect a reconciliation between the king and the duke, by means of a personal interview, he appeared before Richard in the character of a loyal mediator, declaring that all his kinsman aimed at was the privilege of holding a free parliament, and having his estates restored to him. Deceived by his loyal pro- fessions, and weakly relying upon the honour of an English peer, he was prevailed upon to give his be- trayer a meeting in the neighbourhood of Conway. The better to allay the king's suspicions, which were more than once expressed, he proposed to accompany him to high mass, and renew his oath of allegiance at the altar. The way from the holy temple lay through a lonely defile in the mountain district near Penmaen Rhos ; and here the king was first taught to repent of having placed confidence in the solemn oath of one of the first nobles of the land. They were soon joined by a numerous military escort, bearing the arms of the earls Percy on their standards. Upon the instant, Richard, who was never wanting to himself in moments of emergency, turned his horse's head to fly, but it was too late ; the arch-traitor himself dashing forward, seized the reins of his charger, and, seconded by his FLINT CASTLE. 25 partisans, forcibly directed his wretched sovereign's route towards the then broad, frowning towers of Flint. Bitterly did the royal Richard reproach the dastardly betrayer of his sovereign's trust, accusing him, to his face, of the vilest treachery that ever stained the arms of an English knight, and appealing to the God, in whose presence he had that morning sworn fealty, to visit its blasphemous violation upon his head, declaring a day of retribution would assuredly follow a deed so revolting to every mind. But his betrayer only hurried forward more speedily till he reached Rhuddlan ; and, after a brief pause, hastened onward, with the con- scious guilt of a retreating bandit, eager to deposit his stolen treasure, ere he could be overtaken, in the im- pregnable walls of Flint. Having secured the price of royal blood, he added the most despicable hypocrisy to treachery and insult. Both he and his employer affected to treat Richard with the utmost deference and respect. " The next day after dinner," says our pleasant old chronicler,* " the duke of Lancaster entered the castle, armed at all points, his basinet excepted. Kynge Richard came down from the keep, or donjon, to meet him, when Bolingbroke fell upon his knees with his cap in his hand. Seeing this act of apparent submission, the kynge tooke off his hoode and spake first, ' Fair cousin of Lancaster, you are right welcome home.' The duke, bending still more courteously, replied, ( My liege, I am come before you sent for me, the reason why I will shew you. The * Stowe's Annals, p. 321. 26 FLINT CASTLE. common fame among your people is such, that ye have for the space of twenty or two-and-twenty years ruled them very rigorously ; but, if it please our Lorde, I will help you to govern better.' Then the kynge answered, ' Fair cousin of Lancaster, since it pleaseth you, it pleaseth me well/ " Stowe also informs us that " Kynge Richard had a grayhounde called Mathe, who always waited upon the kynge, and would knowe no one else ; for whensoever the kynge did ryde, he that kepte the grayhounde did let him lose, he wolde streyght rune to the kynge, and fawne upon him, and leape with his fore-feet upon the kynge's shoulders. And, as the kynge and the earle of Derby talked togyder in the courte, the grayhounde, who was wont to leape upon the kynge, left the kynge, and came to the earle of Derby, duke of Lancaster, and made to him the same friendly continuance and chere as he was wont to do to the kynge. The duke, who knew not the grayhounde, demanded of the kynge what the dog would do? ' Cosyn/ quod the kynge, ( it is a great good token to you, and an evyll sygne to me.' ' Sir, how know you that ? ' quod the duke : ' I know it well/ quod the the kynge : ' the grayhounde maketh you chere this day as kynge of Englande, as ye shall be, and I shall be deposed : the grayhounde hath this knowledge naturalye, therefore, take him to you ; he will follow you and forsake me.' The duke understood well those words, and cherished the grayhounde, who wolde never after folowe King Richard, but folowed the duke of Lancaster." Soon, however, this hollow show of respect was thrown aside, and dropping the mask, with a high sharp FLINT CASTLE. 27 voice ordered forth the king's horses ; and then " two little nagges, not worth forty franks, were brought out; the king was set on the one, and the earl of Salisbury on the other; and thus the duke brought the king from Flint to Chester, where he was delivered to the sons of the duke of Gloucester and of the earl of Arundel, whose fathers he had recently put to death. They conducted him straight to the prison, and in this ' dolorous castelle,' as it is termed by Hall, was deposed the weak and unfortunate monarch, Richard II." It would appear, as in the case so pathetically alluded to in King Lear, that even the ingratitude of the brute creation added a sting to the broken spirit of the crownless monarch. Such an incident could not escape the artist, studious of historical character in the old picturesque times ; and Richard's favourite dog here appears as if struck with the change in his master's demeanour, and, sensible of his fallen fortunes, eager to fawn upon his rival ; while Richard's page is attempt- ing, with strong natural delicacy, to repress the dog's efforts to fawn upon the proud usurper. After an interview like the foregoing, the speedy fate of Richard the invariable fortune of a captive and dethroned prince, calls for no comment. In its most trying circumstances such as the heartless parade of his victim through the country in his progress to the capital, how well does the exquisite description of our immortal dramatist exhibit the startling scene, and all the traces of Bolingbroke's character ! With what peculiar felicity he holds to view the noble moral a fearful lesson to princes, of the transient state of 28 FLINT CASTLE. human greatness, and the still more transient nature of human favour. " Men's eyes Did scowl on Richard : no man cried God save him ; No joyful tongue gave him his welcome home : But dust was thrown upon his sacred head ; Which with such gentle sorrow he shook off, His face still combating with tears and smiles, The badges of his grief and patience, That had not God, for some strong purpose, steel'd The hearts of men, they must perforce have melted, And barbarism itself have pitied him." With regard to the foundation of Flint Castle, anti- quarians are to this day undecided. Camden and others, followed by Lord Littelton, assert that it was commenced by Henry II. and completed by the first Edward ; while Leland adduces the authority of older writers to attri- bute it altogether to the latter. After his rout and escape from Euloe, it is probable that Henry erected some fortress on the spot to resist any fresh attacks, and that the more enlarged castellated pile, in its strength and majesty, was the work of his great de- scendant, the most powerful of English sovereigns. In 1277, an order was issued for proclaiming a market and fair, to be held at Flint a measure soon after extended throughout Cheshire and the cantreds* of Wales. From the tenor of a writ, preserved by Eymer, it would also appear that Edward I. resided in the castle, the same year, about the period of the feast of the Assumption. In 1280, the year in which it was garrisoned, another * Cantred cantref, or hundred ; a division of counties. The Welsh word signifies " a hundred homes." FLINT CASTLE. 29 mandate was issued for the custody of the gate of Flint. Three years afterwards the town received its first char- ter, was made a free borough, and a mayor elected and sworn " faithfully to maintain its liberties." Wearied with the oppressions of successive masters, the Welsh at length rose once more, led by Llewelyn and his brother David ; and Flint, like Hawarden, was surprised and carried by storm. It was here too, in 1311, that the first English Prince of Wales Edward of Carnarvon, the son of the conqueror received from exile his favourite, Piers Gaveston, who had landed from Ireland, and by his infatuated weakness suffered a fate still more terrible than that inflicted by his father on the last native princes of the country. In 1355, Edward the Black Prince received orders, as earl of Chester, to take into safe custody the castles of Flint and Rhuddlan, which he possessed by charter, in common with that of Chester, and the cantred and lands of Englefield. In the formidable insurrection of Owen Glendower, that able chieftain in vain attempted to possess himself of the fortress ; from which time a blank occurs in its history, till we reach the period of the Civil Wars. It was then garrisoned for the king by Sir Roger Mostyn, of whom Whitelock makes the following honourable mention : " This Colonel Mostyn is my sister's son, a gentleman of good parts and metal ; of a very ancient family, large possessions, and great interest in the country, so that in twelve hours he raised fifteen hun- dred men for the king." In the siege of 1643, he made a desperate defence against the Parliamentary general, Sir W. Brereton, and it was not till every method was 30 FLINT CASTLE. exhausted, and every privation suffered, that he yielded, in order to preserve the garrison. The castle appears to have been subsequently recovered by the royalists, as the garrison of Beeston had by articles of convention marched out of that fortress, in 1645, with all the honours of war, "to join their countrymen in Flint Castle." But it was again compelled to yield to Gene- ral My tton, in 1646, and in the year following was dis- mantled, with many other fortresses, by order of the Parliament. Its gallant governor was ill-requited by the Crown for his services ; for, after having expended upwards of sixty thousand pounds, and suffered a long imprisonment in Conway Castle, he was so reduced as to leave his family seat, and live privately at an ordi- nary farm-house. At the Restoration the Castle of Flint was resumed by, and is still vested in, the Crown ; and, according to the tenor of ancient royal grants, the constable appointed appears in the twofold character of military and muni- cipal head being at once governor of the fortress and mayor of the borough. CHAPTER III. HOLYWELL ST. ASAPH RHUDDLAN RHYL ABERGELY. The morning air Plays on my cheek how gently, flinging round A silvery gleam ; and now the purple mists Rise like a curtain ; now the sun looks out, Filling, o'erflowing with his glorious light, This noble amphitheatre of hills. ROGERS'S ITALY. THERE are moods of mind the result, perhaps, of too deep experience or long travel, such as dictated some of the wildest and most pathetic poetry of Byron when the beaten tracks of life, society, the hollow forms of friendship, and the yet hollower promises of ambition, seem to lose their every charm. The thoughts of the heart revert, with a sigh of regret, to earlier and more genuine affections, more unembittered pursuits ; or, charged with deep emotions, press forward to the future, where all is real, substantial, and sincere. We sigh to cast off the worldly mask which custom con- demns us to wear to turn from the empty forms and heartlessness which direct the grand movements, and perform the lip-service of the day, and to shelter us in the sanctuary of younger and nobler feelings, feelings more assimilated to our first love, when we worshipped the bright effusions of genius as holy truth, and dwelt on the beautiful and glorious in nature with the affec- tion of a child on its smiling mother's face. 32 BASINGWERK. With this irrepressible love, so early rooted with habits of deep solitary study and contemplation, which strongly marked his character and feelings, and with that restlessness, which an early unhappy passion, treacherous friendship, and wounded ambition, equally produce, the wanderer turned from the resorts of the great and the gay with a feeling of scorn and satiety, which seemed to render change of scene almost neces- sary to his being. He had studied life as it is idly termed under different aspects, and in all its con- ditions; he had beheld society in its equally vulgar extremes ; he had experienced the strange mutabilities of fortune, and he now wandered a solitary amidst scenes over which fancy, ennobling love, and youthful companionship, had cast the spell of their brief, but glorious, reign. The ruins of the time- dismantled castle of Flint, which threw its broad shadow upon the sands, like the reflection of those vanished scenes, assorted well with the traveller's mood, as he resumed his onward path. Within the precincts of those mouldering battlements monarchs had met, there a monarch laid down his crown; they had rung with the storms of battle, and re-echoed with the wildest revelry of feudal victory and pride. A brave people had there surrendered up their ancient freedom at the feet of the oppressor, little re- gardful of the blessings which such a conquest had in store for them ; and with thoughts strangely specu- lating on the results of human action, and the great compensatory system of mingled good and evil, the traveller gazed back upon what were once the massive bulwarks of Flint, fast crumbling into dust. He BASINGWERK. 33 listened to the growing swell of those eternal surges which came sweeping over the sands, when the bul- warks were in their glory ; and the sun shed a brilliant glow over the far-spreading shores of the Dee, as he pursued the path along its banks towards the ancient abbey of Basingwerk. Free as the native mountaineer to select his own time and route, without the breath of another's will, he felt the sense of loneliness lost in the "strong and far delight" of exploring at pleasure scenes and spots congenial with the prevailing impulses of the hour. It was this feeling which induced him, on reaching the Principality once more, a sadder but a wiser man, to throw off all ties and incumbrances of the way, and taking the cross-roads and by-paths, to resume acquaintance with the dwellers by the lake and hill-side, with some of whom, humouring their national foible, he often loved to descant on princely lineage, and the respective merit of their titles to rank with the common or the royal tribes. By this plan he enjoyed the best of all companionship, which he could drop or take up at any moment ; gleaned many amus- ing particulars as to antiquarian games and sports, the old laws of assemblies and festivals, with the more tra- ditional customs and manners of country life. In his progress to Euloe he thus visited every spot, along the highways and by-ways, which could excite his curiosity, or win him by the study of simple habits and reliance on personal exertion and resources, to free himself from the real servility of irksome dependence upon menials for his least wants and wishes. The advantages he derived were as pleasant as they were unexpected ; he experienced in the counties of Denbigh, Carnarvon, and 34 BASINGWERK. Merioneth, the delightful confidence inspired by tra- versing the less-frequented portions of the country ; he beheld their wild picturesque scenery in their most contrasted lights and shadows in cloud, in sunshine, or in storm in the silence and the deepening hues of twilight the opening splendours of the dawn, and under the solemn sway of night. No spot in the neighbourhood could be better selected for the site of an abbey than the one chosen for that of Basingwerk, the ruins of which rest upon a gentle eminence between two hills, about a mile east of Holywell, among rich meadows, near the spot where the waters of that wonder-working well fall into the Dee, commanding a fine view of the Cheshire shore, with a profusion of spreading sycamores and groves of ancient trees on all sides. It is supposed to have derived its origin from one of the Welsh princes, but the fragments which the Wanderer contemplated be- longed to an institution founded, probably, by the earl of Chester, in 1113, the foundation afterwards being confirmed by King Henry II. and Prince Llewelyn. In its time-worn and crumbling ruins, hardly any idea can be formed of its original extent or character ; but it is proved to be of that mixed architecture, Norman and Early English, by its present remains, and by the traces of its foundation. After being built, it received considerable additions at various times; the re- fectory, now used as a stall for cattle, with its long range of circular pillars and trefoil arches sunk in the wall, deserves particular attention. It is worth while to visit Basingwerk, though only " the shade of what it was," were it but to admire the taste which these HOLYWELL. 35 hermits of old had in fixing their residence, and the piety, it may be, which led them to seek a solitary abode so favourable to devotion. "0 them, who to this wild retreat Shall lead, by choice, thy pilgrim feet, To trace the dark wood, waving o'er This rocky cell and sainted floor ; If here thou bring a gentle mind, That shuns by fits, yet loves mankind, That leaves the schools, and in this wood Learns the best science to be good ; Then soft, as on the dews below Yon oaks their silent umbrage throw ; Peace, to thy prayers, by virtue brought, Pilgrim, shall bless thy hallowed thought." At a short distance from the abbey formerly stood Basingwerk Castle, now, however, reduced to a heap of ruins, hardly distinguishable. Vestiges of the fortress appear on the edge of a vast ditch, called Watt's Dyke, which protected it on the south, while the west was secured by a deep gully, formed by the river. The original building was of great antiquity, too remote for any authentic records, the later one having been built in 1157, by Henry II., after his escape from Euloe. It was taken by storm by Owen Gwynedd, and has not since been repaired. HOLYWELL ! who has not heard of HOLYWELL and its miracle of a spring ! Who has not had his youthful heart stirred within him at the wonderful story of the chaste and beautiful St. Winifred, and her reco- vered head ! But the Holywell of former days, the place for pilgrims and penitents, is no longer what it was, but has become a bustling manufacturing town, more estimated for its mines, mills, and machinery, D 2 3G HOLYWELL. than for the waters of its far-famed well. The town still, as it formerly did, crowns the brow of an emi- nence, which slopes down to the shores of the Dee. The stream, which issues from this celebrated spring, and which, in early times, carried its healing waters in murmurs that spoke of " promised pleasure " to the gazing sufferers, having upon its banks one solitary mill to supply the hospitable brotherhood of Basing- werk with the fine flour of their delicate simmels,* now absolutely roars with the sound of battering ham- mers and battered anvils, used in the conversion of the ores and metals raised in different parts of Flintshire and Denbighshire, and in fabricating them into copper sheets and copper bolts, rolls of wire, and articles and vessels of all kinds for use and ornament.t The church, dedicated to St. Winifred, is a spacious building, with the east window ornamented with stained glass ; it is situated at the foot of a steep hummock, below the upper part of the town. St. Winifred's Well, which gave the name of HOLY- WELL to the place, is a powerful spring, throwing up about thirty tons of water per minute, with scarcely any variation in rain or drought, in winter or summer. The whole of this structure as it now stands, together with the chapel above, was built by Margaret, mother of Henry VII. ; the style partaking of the character of that era, though Mr. Grose is of opinion that portions * A most agreeable bun or cake, of which the good fathers of those days are reputed of having been very fond. + For an interesting account of these mines and manufactories, the reader is referred to Aikin's " Mineralogical Tour through North Wales." HOLYWELL. 37 of it are of much earlier date. The interior work is most beautifully executed, and presents a fine specimen of enriched groining, \vith carved pendants illustrative of its legend, and sculptures alluding to the house of Stanley, forming a canopy over the well ; from whence the water passes under an arch into a large basin, in which the artist of the accompanying engraving has introduced several characteristic figures in the act of immersion no doubt intended to represent the infirm and holy pilgrims of by-gone days. It would,' speak favourably to their taste if the well, basin, and building were kept in a more careful and cleanly condition, by the good people of the town ; but the said good people in their justification affirm, that its comparatively neglected state is attributable to the proprietorship being disputed by the marquis of Westminster and the authorities of Holywell. The legend of the well is this : Winifred, who is supposed to have lived in the early part of the seventh century, is reported to have been a beautiful and devout virgin, of noble descent. She was placed under the protection of her relation Beuno, a descendant from the kings of Povvys, who had founded a church here. A young prince of the name of Caradoc, the son of King Allen, struck with the elegance of her person, resolved to attempt her virtue ; and, seizing an opportunity when all except herself were at prayers, he declared to her his passion. She made some excuse to escape from the room, and then fled from the house to the church, which stood at the foot of the hill. Before she could reach this sanctuary he overtook her, and with his sword, in an ecstasy of rage and disap- 38 HOLYWELL. pointment, struck off her head. This, like an elastic ball, bounded down the side of the hill, through the door of the church, and up one of the aisles directly to the altar where her friends were assembled at prayer : resting here, a clear and copious fountain immediately gushed out. St. Beuno snatched up the head, and again joining it to the body, it was, to the surprise and admiration of all present, immediately reunited, the place of separation being only marked by a white line encircling the neck. Caradoc dropped down on the spot where he had committed the atrocious act; and the legend informs us that it was not known whether the earth opened to receive his impious corpse, or whether his master, the devil, carried it off; but that it was certainly never seen afterwards. The sides of the well were covered with a sweet-scented moss, and the stones at the bottom became tinctured with her blood ! The poetical antiquary, Michael Drayton, whose de- scriptions are always true, and sometimes beautiful, has versified this event. "The lifeless tears she shed into a fountaine turne, And, that for her alone the water should not mourne, The pure vennillion blood that issued from her veines Unto this very day the pearly gravel staines, As erst the white and red were mixed in her cheeke ; And that one part of her might be the other like, Her haire was turned to mosse, whose sweetness doth declare In liveliness of youth the natural sweets she bare." Winifred survived her decapitation about fifteen years, and having, towards the latter end of that time, received the veil from St. Elerius at Gwytherin, in Denbighshire, died abbess of that monastery. There her body rested in quiet for near five hundred years, HOLYWBLL. 39 till the reign of King Stephen, when a miracle having been wrought, by her intercession, on a monk at Shrewsbury, the abbot of the convent there deter- mined on a translation of her remains to their monas- tery, which, after much difficulty and many pretended visions from heaven, was at last effected, about the year 1138. The well, after her death, was endowed with many miraculous properties : it healed the diseases of all who plunged into its water, and Drayton says that no animal whatever could be drowned in it. The sweet-scented moss, growing plentifully on the sides of this well, is the Jungermannia asplenoides of Linna3us, found in many other springs in the king- dom, and is also occasionally to be met with in moist places, by road-sides, and in woods. The blood- tincture is from another vegetable production, the Byssus jolithus. The devotees of the saint were formerly very nume- rous,* and in the last age the well was so noted, that, * Of the almost miraculous cures produced by the waters of St.- Winifred's Well, an interesting instance is mentioned by Bishop Fleet- wood, in his edition of the life and miracles of St. Winifred : " In the year of our Lord 1606, Sir Roger Bodenham, Knight, of the honourable Order of the Bath, after a tedious quartan ague, had a gross humour settled in his legs, which soon after broke out into an apparent leprosy. He made use of many able physicians, but depended most on Dr. John David Rhys, a Cambro-Briton, who commenced doctor at Sienna, professed physician at Padua, was practitioner in divers parts of Italy, and afterwards in England. He was near sixty years of age when Sir Roger consulted him. This learned man ran through all remedies that concern could suggest or art devise, without any success or ease to the knight. He therefore advised him to lay the case before the College of Physicians in London, which was stated very 40 HOLYWELL. according to Mr. Pennant, a crowned head dignified the place with a visit. " The prince who lost three kingdoms for a mass, payed his respects on the 29th of August, 1686, to our saint, and received as a reward a present of the very garment in which his great grand- mother, Mary Queen of Scots, lost her head." The return of St. Winifred's day was at one time regularly commemorated by the devout members of the " ancient faith" of this part of the country. But this festival declined in proportion as the legend became doubted, and then disbelieved, by the people. The last occasion of its celebration, probably, was in 1718, when a solemn procession took place to the shrine of the maiden saint; but the government having had notice of it, and suspecting, causelessly indeed, some faithfully and learnedly by the aforesaid Rhys, and was carried up by Mr. Thomas Beale, steward of Sir Roger's courts. The college at London being convened, the case was read and debated, as also the practice and prescriptions of Dr. Rhys, which Beale delivered to them in writing. They wrote back to Sir Roger their opinion, that his physician had hit right on his disease, and had applied proper remedies for a cure ; that he was a person so eminently learned that they acknow- ledged themselves his inferiors (he having been reader to most of them), and if the method he took had no effect, there was not in nature any cure for him. Upon this, Dr. Rhys, being a Roman Catholic, advised his patient to remove to St. Winifrede's Well, to try whether, by the saint's intercession, he might obtain a cure which was not in the power of art to effect. He acquainted him with the holiness of the place, and what miraculous favours were there obtained. Sir Roger, extremely desirous of health, undertook a painful journey, full seventy-eight British miles, to Holywell. He bathed himself in the miraculous fountain, and became as sound and clean from all scurf and leprosy as a child newly born, and afterwards continued so," &c. Of the truth of this statement we have no doubt as far as regards the cure ; but it must be ascribed to the healing properties of the water, and not to the intercession of the saint. ED. Jffi@JLrJfWiBIL.IL. HOLYWELL. 41 covert design of the disaffected, sent down a party of dragoons, who violently seized the officiating priest, and forcibly took possession of the images, plate, and sacred utensils that were used in the ceremony. The caustic Fuller, whose acrid humour always over- flows when he touches the saints of the Roman calen- dar, remarks upon the legend of St. Winifred, " that if the tip of his tongue who first told, and the top of his fingers who first wrote, this damnable lie, had been cut off, and they had both been sent to attend their cure at the shrine of St. Beuno, they would certainly have been more wary afterwards how they reported or recorded such improbable untruths." The Wanderer's diversion from the old prescribed routes and line of roads, brought him acquainted with a number of interesting objects pleasant little ham- lets antique mansion-houses feudal and castellated ruins, which could not otherwise have been explored. It was thus that he reached Downing, formerly the seat of Thomas Pennant, Esq.,* the celebrated tourist and topographical and antiquarian historian of Wales. This structure is erected in the form of a Roman H, a style of architecture common in Wales in the seven- teenth century, and bore this ancient motto on the front in the native language : " Heb Dduw, heb * "The house itself," Mr. Pennant quaintly informs us, " has little to boast of. I fortunately found it incapable of being improved into a magnitude exceeding the revenue of the family. It has a hall, a library, a parlour capable of containing more guests than I ever wish to see in it at a time, septem convivium novem convicium ! and a smoking- room, most antiquely furnished. Above stairs is a good drawing-room, and a tea-room. I have Cowley's wish realized : a small house and a large garden." 42 MOSTYN HALL. ddim ; Duw a digon." " Without God, without every- thing; having God, we have all things." It is seated amidst a dark cluster of trees, about three miles north of Holywell, and nearly two miles from the turnpike road. The grounds are spacious, extending along the hills, and glens, and meadows, that reach to the borders of the river, commanding many beautiful views of this picturesque country, and of the Channel, reaching nearly to the port of Liverpool. Westerly of Downing stands a circular building of great antiquity, called Mynydd-y-Garreg, on the summit of a hill, which was formerly the Roman Pharos on the Deva. Taking the line along the coast towards the Point of Air, two miles beyond Downing, is Mostyn Hall, a seat belonging to that family, which rises in its genea- logical line beyond the Norman Conquest, and is lineally descended from Tudor Trevor, earl of Here- ford. The house, which was probably built in the time of Henry VI., is approached from Rhewl through an avenue of magnificent forest-trees. The park is not large, but it oflFers a number of bold and interesting scenes. The marine prospects may be espe- cially noticed, which present themselves at successive openings, among the surrounding foliage of venerable oaks and beech-trees. The house itself has undergone continual additions and alterations since its first erec- tion, so that there are only slight appearances of its original character. The interior is enriched with an extensive library of ancient and modern lore, old por- traits, curiosities, antiquities, and gems, ancient arms, armour, and other monuments of a past age. At the end of the gallery is a spacious room which is con- CAERWYS. 43 nected with the history of the Wars of the Roses, a name which has given a picturesque character to one of the bloodiest and most senseless civil conflicts that ever disturbed and desolated a nation, which, as Shakes- peare figuratively writes, sent "A thousand souls to death and deadly night." Henry, earl of Richmond, when he was contemplating the overthrow of the house of York, paid a secret visit to Mostyn Hall, and in this room laid the plan by which he accomplished his purpose. His wily adver- sary " the crooked-back tyrant/' as he is called, had either suspected, or obtained some knowledge of his design and visit to this place, and secretly sent a strong party to seize him. It was life or death to the earl ; and in the instant of time, created by a parley with the enemy, he leaped out of a back window, and made his escape through a hole, named to this day " the king's window." To the west lies Talacre, the seat of Sir Edward Mostyn, erected in 1827, in the Elizabethan style of architecture, on the site of the old mansion built in the time of James I. The house is delightfully situated, presenting scenery of the boldest and most extensive description. On the left of the road from Holywell towards St. Asaph, is the small town of CAERWYS,* the Fort above * About two miles from Caerwys stands the quiet little village of Ysceiviog, with its neat little church, erected through the instrument- ality of the present incumbent, the Rev. Rowland Williams, canon of St. Asaph, a gentleman, a scholar, and a divine. His quiet patronage of Celtic literature, his faithfulness to the Welsh Church, and the kind assistance rendered by him to the youthful aspirant to the ministry, demand a kindly notice in every work connected with Wales. 44 CAERWYS. the Waters, backed by the high mountain called Moel Park. This was formerly a Roman station, as is testi- fied by the many coins that have been found here, and by the various tumuli that are round it and in the neigh- bourhood. It is celebrated, also, for the Eisteddvods* holden here in early times, and especially for that which was opened under a commission granted by Queen Elizabeth, in 1568, and a more recent one originating with the Gwyneddigion Society on the 29th of May, 1798. Near Caerwys is the delightful wooded valley of Maesmynan Wort, presenting a picturesque variety of grove, and hill, and dale, with the lofty neighbouring mountain throwing its broad shadow below. The most exquisite natural charm is ever heightened by a sense of moral beauty. In passing through a succession of these mild and lovely, or bold, romantic districts, the Wanderer felt a satisfaction not experienced in his former excursions, as he contemplated the changes that had already taken place, and those more important and salutary ones fast approaching, which, added to its exterior embellishments and improvements, must confer a moral and intellectual dignity upon the country, more gratifying to the eye of the observer than even her picturesque falls and streams, or the splendour of her * The Eisteddvod is a congress of bards and others interested in the advancement of Welsh literature and music. Prizes are awarded to the successful candidates by the hand of some fair lady present. The successful competitor for the chief prize is at the same time enthroned in the bardic chair with acclamations and the recital of short eulogiums in poetry by the bards around him. The Eisteddvod has been honoured by the presence of Her Most Gracious Majesty, who, on one occasion, awarded the prizes. CAERWYS. 45 vales and woodlands.* The spirit of freedom, industry, and an era better adapted to develop the intellectual energies of the Welsh, was evidently at work, preparing the social mind for some higher and more advanced state of civilization. The Wanderer marked a self- respect, a degree of courtesy and propriety, in the demeanour of the labouring classes, he had not hitherto beheld. New sources of employment, and both rural and commercial activity, were producing increased pros- perity. The enterprising spirit, also, of the public men, seeking new channels for the investment of capital, leading to an union and extension of interests, bringing their wealth into operation over large tracts of mining or landed property, was a farther earnest of its rapid progress in the race of modern improvement. The patronage of new agricultural societies, those for the diffusion of education and the Scriptures, with the * The Welsh peasant is still remarkable for primitive simplicity of character, and for that high moral tone of feeling which an enlarged acquaintance with the Bible can alone produce. He knows nothing of servility, and as little of arrogance. Mrs. Hemans, whose life had been spent chiefly amongst the mountains of Wales, thus writes in her part- ing address to the land she was leaving : " I bless thee, but not for the beauty which dwells In the heart of thy hills, on the rocks of thy shore, And not for the memory set deep in thy dells Of the bard and the hero, the mighty of yore ; And not for thy songs of those proud ages fled ; Green land, poet land of my home and my dead. " I bless thee for all the true bosoms that beat Where'er a low hamlet smiles up to thy skies ; For thy cottage-hearths burning the stranger to greet, For the love that shines forth from thy children's kind eyes : May the blessing, like sunshine, around thee be spread, As I leave thee, thou land of my home and my dead. " 46 ST. ASAPH. revival of some of the old bardic meetings, and others of a more modern, learned, and literary character, bore equal evidence of that zeal and perseverance in the higher classes, so intimately connected with the welfare of the people at large. The Wanderer pursued this train of thought almost to the forgetfulness of external objects, and it was not till he discovered that the evening was fast wearing away, that he measured his steps with more celerity towards St. Asaph. He had reached the hollow of the hills, along which the Clwyd pursues its course within half a mile of the city, when the moon, which had been for some time overclouded, shone forth with peculiar lustre, and threw its silent, quiet splendours over the scene. So bright and serene was the night, that after taking some refreshment at the White Lion, he was induced to walk as far as the bridge over the Elwy, to watch the playful moonbeams on the waters, before retiring to rest. The city of ST. ASAPH contains few objects of interest except the cathedral, to induce the tourist to pay it more than a passing visit. It stands on the side of an eminence on the western bank of the river Elwy, about a mile from its confluence with the Clwyd. Formerly it was called Llan Elwy the Church upon the Elwy. It consists of one long street, tolerably built, the vene- rable edifice rising above the other buildings on the brow of the hill. Viewed from the bridge below, the appearance of the place, surrounded by waving woods, is exceedingly picturesque ; and the neighbouring scenery, from several points, cannot fail to attract the steps of the pedestrian, and more than compensate for any want of interest in the place itself. RHUDDLAN CASTLE. 47 The fertile tract of valley in which St. Asaph is situated, known as the Vale of Clwyd, extends not less than twenty-five miles in length, and varies from six to eight in width. It commences beyond Ruthin, and, running northward, contains also the towns of Denbigh and St. Asaph, coming to a termination at Rhuddlan, where the Clwyd becomes a tidal river. As in a later part of his travels the Wanderer would have occasion to give a full description of this extensive and luxuriant valley, he prepared himself on the following morning to continue his excursion, without let or hindrance, to Rhuddlan, Rhyl, Abergely, and to return to St. Asaph by Kinmel and Bodelwyddan. Proceeding in a westerly direction, with the Elwy and the dusty turnpike side by side, the traveller passes Pengwern, the seat of Lord Mostyn, near which that river and the Clwyd unite. Soon the old castle of Rhuddlan * presents itself in solitary grandeur, and a walk of a mile brings the wayfarer to the decayed and insignificant town of that name, though it was formerly reckoned a place of considerable importance. The bridge consists of two arches, with the arms of Hughes, bishop of St. Asaph in 1595, upon one of the battle- ments ; and the river is navigable by vessels of small tonnage as far as Rhuddlan. Here are remains of an ancient building, called the Parliament House, which now form part of a private residence in the centre of the town.f As having been the place where the impor- * Anglice, the Eed Bank. t It has been said that when Edward palmed his son on the Welsh, he cried out, as distinctly as he could pronounce them, the words EICH DTN : This is your man ; which, being corrupted into ICH DIEN, became the motto of the future Princes of Wales. 48 HHUDDLAN CASTLE. tant Statute of Rhuddlan was framed, the late dean of St. Asaph had a tablet inserted in the wall with the fol- lowing inscription : " This fragment is the remains of the building where King Edward the First held his Par- liament, in 1283 ; in which was passed the Statute of Rhuddlan, securing to the Principality its judicial rights, and independence" For the size of the place, and the few travellers who pass through it, the Black-a-Moor is a respectable way-side inn. Rhuddlan Castle is on the eastern bank of the Clwyd, a short distance from the town. It was built of the red sandstone found in the adjacent rocks, and formed a square externally, the walls being flanked by six round towers, three of which continue almost entire. The fosse was wide and deep, both sides of the excavation being faced with stone ; and the steep escarpment on the river side was secured by high walls and square bastions, one of which is yet standing. Rhuddlan appears as a place of importance in the early part of the eleventh century, when Llewelyn ap Sitsylt, Prince of Wales, built a castle here, in which he resided. In the time of Gryflydd ap Llewelyn, A.D. 1036, this castle or palace was surprised and burnt by the Saxons under Harold. It was soon restored, but shortly afterwards reconquered by Robert, nephew of Hugh Lupus, earl of Chester. Robert for- tified the castle with new works ; at subsequent periods it was repeatedly attacked and taken by the Welsh and refortified by the English. One of these events is of too curious a nature to be omitted. Towards the latter end of the reign of Richard I., the earl of Chester being surprised by the Welsh whilst in this castle, sent express RHUDDLAN CASTLE. 49 to his constable in that city, Roger Lacy, to come to his assistance with what forces he could collect. It was at Midsummer, and the fair-day at Chester. Roger imme- diately gathered a mob of fiddlers, players, mounte- banks, and other idle folk, and marched at the head of this motley group towards Rhuddlan. The Welsh, under Llewelyn, observing at a distance an immense crowd, concluded it to be the English army advancing to the relief of the place, and immediately raised the siege and withdrew their forces with the greatest preci- pitation. As a recompense for this signal piece of ser- vice the earl appointed his faithful Roger to the office of "Magisterium omnium peccatorum et meretricum totius Cestreshire."* Archbishop Baldwin, in his progress through Wales, was nobly entertained here. In the invasion of Wales by Edward I., that monarch made Rhuddlan his place d'armes and magazine of provisions. In 1281 it was attacked by Llewelyn, the last prince of Wales, and his brother David, but without success ; and the latter prince was confined here previous to his removal to Shrewsbury, where he was executed as a traitor. Edward, sensible of the importance of the place, built a new castle a little to the northward of the former one ; the finishing of this work took a considerable time. He made the town a free borough and bestowed upon the inhabitants many immunities. He also assem- bled here, in 1283, a parliament or council, in which Wales was divided into counties, ancient laws and cus- toms which appeared detrimental were abolished, and * Peccator was written Leccator in the Latinity of those ages, and meant all sorts of idle, vagabonding, debauched persons. E 50 RHUDDLAN CASTLE. new and more advantageous ones introduced, and many important regulations established by what was called the Statute of Rhuddlan, in which he assumed the style of a conqueror of the country. Three times did old Rhuddlan resound with the revelry of the feast of Christmas, during the reign of this monarch; and here the feeble cry of a woman in travail was heard when Queen Eleanor, suffering the penalty of that "sorrow" entailed alike upon all the daughters of Eve, gave birth to a princess. It was in this place that Edward promised the Welsh to give them for their prince a native of the Principality, and who never spoke a word of English, and whose life and con- versation no man could impugn. He fulfilled the letter of his promise by presenting to them his infant son, afterwards Edward II., then just born at Carnarvon. Within the walls of this fortress the false earl of Northumberland brought his prisoner Richard the Second, and partook of some refreshment on his way to Flint. Rhuddlan Castle was in the great civil war garrisoned for the king, but was taken by General Mytton, in 1646, and in the same or following year ordered by the Parliament to be dismantled. It is the business of the antiquary and historian to look into " the dark backwards and abysm of time," and even on the mind of a lonely Wanderer, such as I am, reflections deep and melancholy, could not fail to steal, as I surveyed the dreary fragments of a pomp and majesty long since vanished from the earth, with all the associations of barbaric despotism, feudal gatherings, natural sympathies, and home affections, and I mentally exclaimed, in the altered lines of the great poet, MORFA RHUDDLAN. 51 '* Where is the husband now ? where be the brothers ? Where be the sons wherein thou then didst joy ? Who sues, and kneels, and says, 'God save the king ?' Where be the bending peers that flattered thee ? Where be the thronging troops that followed thee ? Decline all this, and see what now thou art ! " Morfa Rhuddlan, or Ehuddlan Marsh, is an extensive tract of low land, lying between the town and the sea. It is celebrated in the history of Matthew of Paris, as the scene where a dreadful and bloody battle occurred, between the ancient Britons headed by Prince Caradoc,* and the Saxons led by Offa, king of Mercia, in the year 795, in which the Welsh people were defeated, and their king . and leaders slain upon the field. The Saxon prince barbarously gave orders that all the men and children of the enemy should be massacred, and even the women scarcely escaped his fury. Morfa Rhuddlan is also known to have been the scene of many a wild and stormy encounter during the civil dissensions and foreign invasions which kept the Cambro-Britons almost continually in the field. As he trod its dreary, extensive marsh, the Wanderer recalled to mind the well-known and exquisitely plaintive air called Morfa Rhuddlan, nor did he forget the noble and beautiful sentiments of the bards commemorative of the brave Caradoc. About two miles east of Rhuddlan, on the direct road between that town and Holy well, is the romantic village of DYSERTH,t remarkable in history for its castle, which was erected about half a mile from the village. But a few crumbling walls of this once strong- hold, on the summit of a precipitous rock, attest the site of this castle, one of that range of fortresses, * Caractacus. t Anglice, very steep. E2 RHYL. extending every ten miles round the coast from Car- narvon to Chester, erected by the politic Edward to break and overcome the warlike spirit of his new subjects. The first burst of the valley of the Clwyd, as it opens upon the spectator from beneath the ruins of Dyserth Castle, is surpassingly beautiful. Northward is a length of twelve miles of coast, forming the boundary of the vale, with the sea beyond ; immediately below, a rich tract of land, dotted over with farms, the river, winding its course beneath the Castle of Rhuddlan, which carries the eye towards the sterile district around the rapidly rising town of Rhyl ; on the opposite side of the vale, Gwrych Castle is seen, perched like an eagle's nest on the side of a rock the town of Abergely Kinmel, the sumptuous abode of Lord Dinorben the tower of Bodlewyddan Castle, peeping over a forest of oak Pengwern, the residence of Lord Mostyn, and, terminating the scene, the bold outline of St. Asaph Cathedral. At the foot of the mountains, which form the ter- minus of the range of hills marking the eastern boun- dary of the vale of Clwyd, are the extensive lead-works of Tal yr Goch, which have been in uninterrupted work- ing for several centuries. RHYL is a rapidly rising watering-place, built on the shore near the Clwyd, at its junction with the sea. The place owes its prosperity to its contiguity to Liverpool, from which town it is only distant three or four hours' sail -to its being the outlet of the vale of Clwyd, and the northern point from which travellers start on their excursions to the beautiful scenery of Wales and to RHYL TAN YR OGO. 53 its fine and extensive beach, than which nothing can be more splendid at low water. A ride or drive of comparatively unbounded extent, on a beautiful bed of smooth firm-set sand, with the blue sea on one hand, and the romantic scenery of this marvellous land on the other, is sufficient to put both mind and body into a tone of harmonizing vigour, be they ever so dis- ordered. Rhyl was but a few years back an uninclosed common ; it now probably numbers a thousand in- habitants. It has a commodious church and two hotels, besides an extensive lodging-house, and numerous other sojourning domiciles of second-rate description.* The landing-place from the steam packets is at Foryd, in the mouth of the river Clwyd, nearly a mile from Rhyl, which has many inconveniences at- tending it, and the walk over the sand-banks on the shore, above sea-water reach, is both fatiguing and painful. The most direct route from Rhyl to Abergely, is across the mouth of the Clwyd to Foryd,t the passage of which is by boat when the tide is up, while at low water it may be forded. Having passed over the river, the Wanderer took his way along the shore to Tan yr Ogo, the mouth of a defile which has been the witness of more bloodshed than any place in North Wales. There is nothing interesting in this walk of seven miles, the whole of the land immediately bordering the * Many of the respectable residents in the vale of Clwyd have what is called a box at Rhyl, and come here with their families during the summer months to inhale the sea breeze, dip in the briny wave, and enjoy all the "otium cum dignitate " of citizens from home. f The sea-ford. 54 CEFN OGO. shore, which was before an extensive marsh, having only been enclosed a few years. Tan yr Ogo, being interpreted, is under the cave, and the name is taken from a very singular and extensive cavern near the summit of the rock above, which has been described as possessing the mysterious and fanciful attributes of a stalactical cave, and in some respects resembling the Italian Grotta di Sibylla. Under the foot of this rock, called Cefn Ogo, is one of the entrance gateways to Gwrych Castle, on the face of which are four modern inscriptions, pointing out the historical events con- nected with this locality, which are sufficiently interest- ing and important to be transcribed. 1. "Prior to the Norman Conquest, Harold, in his attempt to subjugate this part of the Principality, was encountered by Gryffydd -ap Llewellyn, prince of North Wales, on the plain near Cefn Ogo, and after a san- guinary battle, in which he was defeated, was driven back to Rhyddlan." 2. " In the reign of William the Conqueror, Hugh Lupus, on his march to invade the island of Anglesea, passing through this defile, was attacked by an armed band of Welshmen, which had been posted here to anticipate his progress, and of which, after an obsti- nate and protracted battle, one thousand one hundred were left dead on the spot." 3. "In the reign of Henry II., Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, on his return from Flintshire, fortified himself in this pass, when he gave battle t.o the forces of that monarch, and repulsed them with great slaughter; after having secured this important post, he retreated to Pen y Pare, in the adjoining GWRYCH CASTLE. 55 parish, where he made head against the English forces, and effectually checked the further invasion of his dominions." 4. " Near this pass Eichard the Second, whom Percy, earl of Northumberland, under pretence of an amicable interview with Bolingbroke, had inveigled from Conway Castle, on his return from Ireland, was, by a military band bearing the Northumberland banner, surrounded and conducted to Flint Castle, where he was treacherously betrayed by the earl into the power of the usurper." From Cefn Ogo. the road winds along the side of the hill, commanding a view of the vale below, and passes Gwrych Castle, a modern structure, about a mile from Abergely on the road towards Conway. It would be difficult to criticise this incongruous mass of detail and puerility : the position is ill adapted for an edifice of this nature, more resembling an Italian or Syrian convent, built upon the acclivity of Monte Cassino or Mount Libanus, than a castle ; wanting, as it does, the solidity and dignity of a structure which makes any pretensions to the castellated style. Although this architectural inconsistency is too apparent, there is, however, something picturesque about the edifice, which, in spite of its defects, causes the stranger to look upon it with admiration. Tribes of the Hedera genus rejoicingly fling their long and flexible branches along the young walls, as if glad to escape the company of gray towers and tottering ruins, their usual asso- ciates, while many-leaved and many-coloured flowering shrubs and green plantations present themselves from every point of view. Whatever may be said about the 56 ABERGELY. mistakes already noticed in the castle and its ap- proaches, it is gratifying to record that no gentleman in the vicinity effects more real good than does the benevolent proprietor of Gwrych Castle, who employs almost continually artisans of every description in his various alterations and improvements. ABERGELY is a neat little town, on the high road between Chester and Bangor, about a mile from the sea-shore, where the tired traveller has an opportunity of reposing in quiet and luxury at that queen of hotels, the Bee. The town consists of one long street, containing about one thousand three hundred inhabi- tants, chiefly employed in mining and agriculture. The church is a plain structure, built in the reign of Henry VIII., and dedicated to St. Michael, which the worthy parishioners have been pleased to thoroughly whitewash over, in defiance of all criticism. From the number of pleasant hamlets and domestic villas which surround Abergely, the neighbourhood must be considered both salubrious and agreeable. The village of Llanfair* is built on the Elwy, and beyond it is Llangerniew, and at the summit of the vale of Aled, the village of Llansannau ; while the seats of the aris- tocracy comprise Kinmel, Bodlewyddan, Coedcoch, Gar- thewin, Havod-unos, Dyffryn Aled, and several others. Instead of proceeding onwards to Conway, I bent my steps again towards St. Asaph, leaving that place and the other parts of Carnarvonshire until after I had seen the vales of Clwyd and Llangollen. About three miles from Abergely is the little village of St. George, over- * This name, too, will frequently occur in Wales the Church of Mary the parish church being dedicated to the Virgin. KINMEL. 57 looking the beautiful scenery of the vale, remarkable for the sumptuous Gothic mausoleum erected over the vault in which Lady Dinorben was interred ; it is how- ever quite out of character with the simple, unorna- mented church to which it is attached. Leaving St. George, the imposing entrance gateway of Kinmel, the seat of Lord Dinorben, soon presents itself, the park studded with majestic timber, and herds of deer, some browsing quietly and others scampering in every direc- tion. Kinmel was extended, indeed almost rebuilt, a few years ago, by Hopper, of London. A magnificent Ionic portico is the principal external feature, while the entrance-hall and staircase enriched with marble columns, and the elegantly proportioned and superb dining-room, all in perfect style of keeping, prove the taste which has been exercised in building and furnish- ing this luxurious abode. From Kinmel the road leads onwards to Bodlew- yddan, the residence of Sir John Williams, Bart., which is reached through a massy Gothic gateway. The man- sion itself has undergone a metamorphosis from Grecian to the castellated style. The original change was sug- gested and carried into effect by Mr. Edward Welch, architect, of Liverpool,' 55 ' and has since been continued under the direction of the agent of the estate. The work is well executed, and, with one or two slight ex- ceptions, in perfect consistency of character. Prom the turrets of the castle, the traveller may enjoy one of the richest and most luxuriant prospects that can meet * This gentleman was one of the architects of the Birmingham Town Hall, a structure of such solidity and grandeur as to call forth the commendation of every visitor to that town. 58 ST. ASAPH CATHEDRAL. the eye ; the wide-spreading vale stretches forward like the val sans retour of fairy-land; studded with beautiful seats, and quiet homes of romantic loveli- ness, Rhyl, and the extensive marine view beyond the sinuous course of the Foryd the bold towers of Rhuddlan Saint Asaph Cathedral, and the extensive and far-distant mountain scenery around. ST. ASAPH is four miles from Bodlewyddan, the road being distinguished by no marked peculiarity until the city is nearly reached, when it becomes more pictur- esque, and the river from the bridge over the Elwy tempts the stranger to stay his progress for a time. Some description of St. Asaph has been given in a pre- ceding page, and before traversing the vale of Clwyd to Denbigh, there is only required a brief account of its ecclesiastical edifice. St. Asaph Cathedral appears, from the style of its original features, to have been built in the thirteenth century, in what is called the Early English, verging into the Decorated ; but like every other edifice of so distant a date, has in the course of centuries undergone a variety of changes, in architectural conformity with the taste of the times. The most conspicuous of these changes is in the enlargement of the windows, which followed the general introduction of stained glass into this country. Although almost every ancient ecclesiastical building presents the spectacle of a mixture of styles, which would be deemed inconsistent if adopted by the modern architect, yet in all these variations there breathes the spirit of beauty and of science, which lamentably con- trasts with the innovations of the present times; in ST. ASAPH CATHEDRAL. 59 illustration of this remark, the antiquary has merely to glance at the miserable inroads which have been made upon the purity of this cathedral, within the last half century. In the year 1783, the choir was in a great measure rebuilt by Turner, the then county architect, in grievous defiance of all character and taste. In the year 1810, the nave and transepts underwent an internal modi- fication by Gummo, by no means creditable to that architect; the introduction of a coved and plastered ceiling under the old oak roof, with fantastic groined ribs of stucco, and the blocking up for this purpose of the unique and beautiful clerestory windows, accord very badly with all notions of taste and propriety. It would be a compliment to any dignitary to restore this por- tion of the edifice to its pristine state. At the intersection of the nave and transepts rises a plain, lofty, square tower, supported by magnificent arches. The piers which sustain the arches of the nave have no capitals ; but the mouldings run continuously through, producing a very rich and harmonizing effect. In the year 1832, the choir was extended westward under the tower, and beneath the western arch of which a stone screen and organ-loft was erected under the superintendence of Mr. Jones, of Chester. Although the style of this screen is of too late a date to associate with that of the rest of the edifice, yet the masonry is beautifully executed, in a superior stone from the quarry of Llanasa.* * Since these lines were penned by our author, several important improvements have been made, especially during the lifetime of the late Bishop Carey. 60 ST. ASAPH CATHEDRAL. Since the extension of the choir the dry rot has very unfortunately made its appearance in this edifice, and is yearly making great ravages among the old and new work. This may be attributed to the want of proper ventilation, and the insufficient seasoning of the new timber. It is a question whether it ever can be tho- roughly exterminated, except by sweeping the whole of the infected work away. The means resorted to for warming the choir with hot water has a tendency to increase the disposition to rot rather than the contrary ; for -wherever there is the germ of vegetable fungus, heat must necessarily precipitate its development, and more especially a damp heat like this. The choir is at present very inefficient, in conse- quence of the funds originally appropriated to its sup- port being diverted into other channels ; with such revenues as are attached to this establishment, a few additional parings, where they would not be felt, might very consistently be allotted to the better sup- port of the choir. The organ has a full and beautiful tone. In the north transept, which is now used as a chap- ter-house, is a very beautiful piece of statuary, consist- ing of a marble figure representing Dean Shipley robed, in a sitting posture, on an elevated pedestal, executed in 1829, by Ternouth, a pupil of Chantry. Here too is deposited the mutilated figure of Bishop David ap Owen, who presided over this see in the fifteenth cen- tury. This monument was originally in the chancel in a recumbent posture, but was removed from thence when the choir was rebuilt, and placed in its present vertical position by Dean Shipley. ST. ASAPH CATHEDRAL. 61 In the south transept is erected an open sarcopha- gus, or shrine, on an elevated base, as a tribute to the memory of Bishop Luxmore, 1830. The design and workmanship are each beautiful, and the material of the purest description. On the wall of the north aisle, in the nave, is also a very beautiful marble monument to the memory of the late Sir John Williams, by Westmacott, representing two female figures, with wings, embracing each other, and in the act of ascending from earth to heaven. At the western doorway externally, is the tomb of the celebrated Dr. Isaac Barrow, who was formerly bishop of the diocese ; and last, though not least, is the mural inscription to Mrs. Hemans, who lived many years in this neighbourhood. The general appearance of this cathedral, both ex- ternal and internal, is neat and clean ; and of its yard it may be said, that it is kept in better order than any other in the kingdom. CHAPTER, IV. VALE OF CLWYD DENBIGH RUTHIN WREXHAM. " Not a tree, A plant, a leaf, a blossom, but contains A folio volume. We may read, and read, And read again, and still find something new." HUHDIS. THE learned and spiritually-minded Flavel has an observation in one of his works, which forms an excel- lent commentary on the motto at the head of this chapter. He says, " the objects presented to the mind are the companions with whom our hearts talk and converse/' I remembered this remark as I was about to leave St. Asaph, on my pilgrimage through the vale of Clwyd ; the morning, however, had opened out in the midst of a pelting shower of rain, and the thick hazy state of the atmosphere seemed likely to prevent any " talk and converse " I might be desirous of holding with the interesting objects around me. And so, indeed, it proved ; for hill and mountain, tree and forest, hamlet and stream, were covered with one tissue of vapour. This hazy veil concealed, it is true, the distant realities of things, but it furnished those prestiges with which the imagination sported in capri- cious luxury, and moulded into all those peculiar forms, which corresponded with the train of thought with which the mind was at that moment engaged. VALE OF CLWYD. 63 The road that I was traversing lay on that tract of high ground which bisects the vale at its broadest point, near St. Asaph. On the right was the Elwy, which for a short time pursues a parallel course with the Clwyd to their junction near the edge of Rhuddlan Marsh. This little river gives its own name to that part of the vale through which it runs, and it is impos- sible to .imagine a place of more gentle beauty. Neither falling torrent nor frowning rocks appertain to it, but the stream glides through its pastoral solitude in mur- muring measures of Arcadian melody, until it issues forth through the stone arches of the beautiful bridge which carries the turnpike road* to Abergely. It was only when I had cleared the last group of patriarch oaks, which mark the domain on the left of the road, that the mists began to roll away, and the sweep of the vale of Clwyd, which Aikin* calls " the Eden of North Wales," unfolds itself to the eye. The hills, which bound the vision on either side, running the length of the vale, consist of a series of mountain reaches, folded one upon another, affording passes strangly wild and beautiful, and sheltering the hamlets of Taler Goch and Bodfari, each with its sanctuary and gray tower, marking those green spots of social ex- istence. The thick fogs, which had been resting on the depths of the valley, were beginning to creep along the sides of Moel Fammau, as I approached this " mother of mountains," as its name imports, and caught by the currents of the higher atmosphere, weaved round her venerable head a coiffure of clouds, a web of gauzy tissue, fold after fold gray in all its * He made the tour in 1789, chiefly for geological purposes. 64 DENBIGH. shades shapeful, grotesque, and shifting as the clouds themselves, leaving the lower mountain slopes and the vale mapped into fertile fields, and opening to view the heathy defile through which runs the road that connects Mold with Denbigh. From the elevated situation on which the traveller is progressing, and from the spreading out of the vale before him, the gigantic fragments of what was once the Castle of Denbigh soon reveal themselves to his view, crowning the solitary lime-stone rock on which the fortress was built, and may be seen for many miles before he reaches the ancient town which it formerly protected. Nearly opposite to it, and at about the distance of a mile to the left, may be descried the venerable tower of Whitchurch, occupying the site of another lime-stone layer of inferior level. The holy edifice has outlived the martial fortress ; as it may be truly said, the things pertaining to eternity stretch beyond the subjects of time. The priest continues to offer up prayer at the sacred altar, while the chivalric defenders of that proud castle have found their resting- places within its silent vaults. The town of DENBIGH, that is, what constituted the ancient town from the thirteenth to the sixteenth cen- tury, was gathered within the circling walls that ran round the rocky hill on which stood the fortress ; and nothing, perhaps, could better show the altered condi- tion of society than, to contemplate, at the same time, the narrow limits marked by the boundary of those crumbling walls, and the cheerful street which now descends the hill in perfect security, running away, as it were, from the needless protection of the huge for- DENBIGH CASTLE. 65 tress, and spreading into the vale, to invite the foot of the traveller to enter into its peaceful and attractive precincts. Denbigh Castle, or as it was formerly called Caledfryn- yn-Rhos,* the castle on the craggy hill in Rhos, is considered to have had an existence as early as the twelfth century, and is referred to in some ancient accounts of the feudal conflicts that belonged to that age. David, the brother of Llewelyn, had the custody of this castle during the time of his servile devotion to the English court. After his reconciliation to his bro- ther, and on the unfortunate death of that prince at Builth, he assumed the crown of Wales, and summoned his chieftains to this stronghold ; and it is not unworthy of remark, that when he was finally betrayed into the hands of the enemy, his former service under the Eng- lish monarch became the ground of his condemnation and barbarous execution, as a traitor, at Shrewsbury. After the death of David, it was given by the conqueror to Henry de Lacy, lord of Lincoln, who erected on the site of the original fortress that magnificent castle whose gigantic remains are se.en at the present day. Subsequently it passed into the hands of successive court minions, till at last it fell into those of Elizabeth's haughty favourite, Leicester. During its transition state, Denbigh Castle was the theatre of extraordinary events. In the civil wars of the rival Houses of York and Lancaster, it stood for the White Rose of England, * Caledfryn-yn-Rh6s. This name seems rather to denote the hard substance of which the rock was formed. So old Churchyard doubtless interpreted it, when he says : " A mightie cragge, as hard as flint or steele." P 66 DENBIGH CASTLE. and maintained an obstinate siege under Edward IV. ; and such was the desolation that pervaded the neigh- bourhood during this struggle, that it is said by the historian of Gwydir, ' ' the whole country was reduced to cold cinders/' and that many " who had mortgaged their lands thought them not worth redeeming." Den- bigh reverted to the Crown, and the command of this stronghold devolved upon a succession of brave and loyal men, amongst whom were successively Richard Myddleton and Sir William Salusbury, otherwise called Hosannau Gleision, or the Blue Stocking, from his par- tiality to the trunk hose of our ancestors of that colour. The latter resembled very much the old knight of Woodstock, as described by the Northern Magician, in his courage and loyalty, and it was during the gover- norship of this gallant gentleman that the castle sus- tained a siege of five months against the Parliament. Religion and loyalty were singularly blended in the mind of the old cavalier, and he was wont to commence his official letters with this motto : " In nomine Jesu." The unfortunate Charles retired to this fortress after his defeat at Rowton Moor, and remained two nights in the castle; and it was at this time that the good governor discoursed so freely with his royal master on his affairs, that the king afterwards said, " Never did prince hear so much truth at once." Denbigh Castle surrendered to the Parliament's forces on the 26th of October, 1646, but not until its valiant commander had received the king's orders to that effect ; and then only on the most honourable terms. The king long remembered his faithful servant, and as a last token of his regard, when the mistaken but noble- DENBIGH CASTLE. 67 minded monarch was brought to the block, he sent him a skull-cap, most beautifully embroidered on crimson silk, which he had constantly worn. This precious relic is still preserved in the family. Old Churchyard, who seemed to delight in winding his poetic wreath round the ancient fortresses of his native land, dwells with peculiar satisfaction on the most minute details of this favourite place. " This castle stands on top of rocke most hye, A mightie cragge, as hard as flint or steele ; A massie mount, whose stones so deepe doth lye That no device may well the bottome feele. The rocke discends beneath the auncient towne, About the which a stately wall goes downe, With buyldings great, and posternes to the same, That goes through rocke, to give it greater fame." The quaint and veracious Leland, too, who saw it at a time anterior to the poet, describes it in his own graphic style. " The castelle is a very large thinge, and hath many towers yn it. The gatehouse is a marvellous strange and great peace of worke. It hath diverse wardes, and diverse portcolicies." Such was once the castle of Denbigh, which now pre- sents only a series of picturesque fragments, with which the philosopher " may point a moral, or adorn a tale." Its massy grouted walls, in many parts twelve feet thick, have yielded to the violent means of hasty destruction, or the sure, but more slow, progress of time. The whole extensive area of this " rocke so hye," is covered with fallen and tottering ruins, in many places twined round with the Herculean arms of the most luxuriant ivy, as if holding them up mockingly in the very teeth F2 68 DENBIGH CASTLE. of the storm that sweeps over this scene of desolation. Nothing now remains of this superb edifice that can attest its enduring strength and ancient splendour, except those gigantic remnants which the traveller's eye measures with astonishment, and those broken lines which guide, and perhaps deceive, the indefatigable antiquary, who, like our pleasant friend of Monkbarns in search of the Prsetorium, may pride himself upon discoveries which admit neither of proof nor contradic- tion. The face of the grand northern gate has escaped, in some degree, the ravages of destruction, and consists of a magnificent pointed arch, over the centre of which is an ornamented niche containing, as old Leland describes it, "the image of Hen Lacy, erle of Lincoln, in his statelie long robes/' Of the two octagonal towers which flanked the entrance, only the crumbling ruins of one remain, with some broken walls, which serve to describe the figure of this part of the building. When I stood before the great gate, this palace of ancient days was turned into a stye, and its inhabitants gave audible tokens of their satisfactory possession of the spot immediately under "the image of the erle of Lin- coln/' and of the bitter change which had passed on this " seate so sure," which the poet had vainly pre- dicted " would last till judgment day." " We build with what we deem eternal rock ; A distant eye asks where the fabric stood ? While in the dust, sifted and searched in vain, The undiscoverable secret sleeps." The chapel of St. Hilary, which is now, as it was in former times, the parish church, stands near the ruined DENBIGH CASTLE. 69 fortress, and is in a good state of preservation. Near to it is the skeleton of another edifice of the same kind, commenced, but never finished, by the earl of Leicester, when he was lord of the domain of Denbigh; and though a considerable sum was raised by the inhabitants of the borough for its completion, Essex, another of the favourites of Elizabeth, when passing through this place for Ireland, persuaded these simple-minded men to lend him the money towards his ill-fated expedition, which was never afterwards returned. The view from that part of the " massie mount" which is now used as a bowling-green, is surpassingly beautiful. The eye ranges along the belt of the Clwydian hills that bound it on either side, with their summits here and there crested into sharp peaks, or occasionally gathered into forms which Mr. Gilpin denominates "heavy and lumpish." Beneath, in the hollow of the vale, the gentle Clwyd, though somewhat of a diminutive stream, curvettes in all the wantonness of unrivalled dominion and ample space, tracing the neighbouring lands into all the varieties of figure which correspond with her own capricious course. On all sides the landscape swells into majesty, or subsides into the sweetest recesses of sequestered life. Herds of living and lowing animals graze over the rich meadows, and flocks of sheep pasture the verdant slips that ascend the mountain side, or dot their towering steeps like fleecy spots upon a ground of flowering heath. In some favoured tracks the adventurous plough has already overcome the difficulties of hill culture, and consecrated to Ceres the unfruitful waste, filling her golden horn with the varied treasures of the year. The picture of 70 DENBIGH CASTLE. the Mantuan bard might almost be transferred to the vale of Clwyd : Serunt, et vomere duros Exercent colles ; atque horum asperrima pascunt. It was autumn when I looked upon this beautiful scene. The foliage of the trees was deeply dyed with the many-coloured paints of this rich season of the year. The bright red leaves of the mountain ash; the deep orange of the chesnut, and the pale yellow of the fading poplar mingled together. The struggling tints of the sycamore, the russet leaves of the old oaks, the red fallows, with the interposing meadows, comprising every shade of green, formed the quiet media that har- monised the whole. The little hamlets that nestled in the mountain nooks, sent up the light blue smoke of their peaceful homesteads in pictured columns. The stately, and in some instances, magnificent villas that graced the river's side, or sought the shelter of the neighbouring hills, revealed themselves by the sparkling silver lights, which they reflected from the setting sun. Such a clear calm evening I had scarcely before wit- nessed, with a landscape of so much majesty and beauty, gathering in its range the striking contrasts of natural scenery, and subduing the whole with that marvellous harmony of light and shade, through the most softened degradations of tone, which form the true chiaro scuro, till the vision of beauty vanished in the long line that stretches out of the vale over the level tract of Rhuddlan, to the rock of Diserth, and the broad sea beyond. " For every Englishman who dwells in the valley a native must go to the mountains," is a common saying DENBIGH CASTLE. 71 in Wales ; which seems to infer that the wealth and taste of England have appropriated many of these plea- sant places. This circumstance has introduced both English manners and language into the most secluded spots, and has given rise to a style of pronunciation difficult to be understood, and sometimes involving the most ludicrous mistakes. An instance of this kind occurred to me as I was journeying from St. Asaph to Denbigh. On this occasion the pelting rain compelled me to avail myself of the assistance of the omnibus which plies between Rhyl and Denbigh, in making my transit to the latter place. I had taken my station beside the driver of this vehicle, and soon fell into conversation with him upon the different topics which the passing scenes presented. He was a shrewd fellow, and knew how to crack a joke as well as any four-in-hand of the Jehu tribe ; and besides, which was of more importance to me, he was acquainted with almost every person he met, and familiar with every object on our way. As the jolting carriage was slowly ascending one of the hills, a stranger with his dogs and fowling -piece passed us, well mounted upon a handsome nag, whose plethoric chest and sides proclaimed the abundance and quality of his provender. The stranger somewhat condescend- ingly nodded to my companion, and his salute was returned on his part by a most respectful greeting. I inquired his name and calling, and the son of the whip gave me his cognomen, adding significantly as to the latter part of the question, that he was a lyar.* " A * The word lawyer is pronounced by the Anglo- Welsh somewhat as we do the instrument called the lyre. 72 DENBIGH CASTLE. liar" I replied in consternation, "I never heard of such a profession why I should sooner have taken him for a miller, by the grist which he and his fat palfrey seem to have taken to swell both their sides to such dimensions." The driver chuckled audibly at the idea, and contrived by dint of sundry evolutions in his in- struments of speech, to make me understand that he was a lawyer. " I could not help laughing," he added, " at your notion of a miller and his grist, and by St. David you was not far wrong ; for these gentlemen are pretty plentiful in our country, and they always contrive to take heavy toll from anybody that falls into their clutches." I was greatly amused at this whim- sical mistake, which so unintentionally involved a severe sarcasm upon that professional casuistry which endea- vours " to make the worse appear the better reason," so common amongst gentlemen learned in the law. It may not be out of place to mention here, that however the Welsh may be disposed to petty litigation, they are by no means addicted to those deeper crimes which call for the heavier penalties of the law. When the Lord Chief Justice Dougherty was leaving Beaumaris, where his family had long been residing, after an assize in which there had not been a single criminal case for trial, he turned to his Irish servant, and said in allusion to this circumstance, " Well, Pat, what would they say to such a thing in our country ?" The Hibernian replied, with an evident air of self-complacency, in the true Irish brogue, "I'll tell you what it is, your honour, these Welsh are a poor mane-spirited people, and havn't the heart to do anything worth hanging for." LLANRHAIADR. 73 A little more than a mile from Denbigh are the woody scenes of Gwaenynog, which were once visited by the celebrated Dr. Johnson. In memory of this visit an urn Avas erected by his friend, Dr. Myddleton, who then resided at this seat. The sun was up, and had commenced for some time his glorious career in the heavens, when I left " the town and castle of Denbigh, where," as Sir John Price goes on to say, " is one of the greatest markets in the Marches of Wales." This market of the Marches, however, had no charms for me, though it was the periodical day of its observance. I had seen "the strongest castle and the fairest valley of this realme," and that was enough for a wanderer like myself. I followed the direction of the long flowing street, and turning to the right at its termination, I soon reached the open country, in the direction for Ruthin. The little hamlet of Llanrhaiadr,* through which the road passes, stands upon a slight eminence, about four miles from Denbigh. The interesting church and churchyard will detain the lingering foot of the travel- ler for many an hour. The east window of the sacred edifice contains a beautiful specimen of stained glass. The subject of the painting is the Root of Jesse, and represents the genealogical tree, springing from the loins of the patriarch, and comprising all the kings of Israel and Judah, encircled by branches and embowered * As several places of the name of Llanrhaiadr will be found in Wales, it may be as well to note the meaning. Llan, in its first inten- tion, signified the "church," but soon acquired a second, which took in the place where the church was situated. Hence, Llan-rhaiadr, the church or village of the waterfall. 74 LLANRHAIADR. in foliage, till the advent of the Saviour. A splendid full-length recumbent figure of Humphrey Jones, in full court dress, sculptured in white marble, lies on the left of the chancel. Monuments, containing the records of antiquity, rear themselves on every side in the church- yard, particularly one to the memory of John ab Robert, which descends through an infinity of abs from Cadvant, an ancient prince of Powis Land. I must not omit one, however, to the memory of Anne the wife of Edward Parry, to which appertains a most marvellous story. This pious female had opened her house for the preaching of the Methodists in this place, and originated a Sunday school in a neighbouring village, which she energetically maintained by her personal exertions. She ended a life of laborious benevolence by a peaceful death, and, forty-three years after her decease, on the occasion of her son's burial in the same tomb, from some circumstances her coffin was opened, and the body of this excellent woman was found to be in a per- fect state of preservation, undecayed in the slightest degree, and her countenance bearing the hues of living health. The very flowers which had been strewed upon her body, it is said, were as fresh in colour, and as frag- grant in odour, as when they were first plucked from their native stems.*" The sun had neared the western range of the Clwydiaii * The body of this lady was exhumated about three years afterwards, and was nearly in the same state of preternatural preservation. This account was furnished to me by the worthy clerk of the parish, and was corroborated by a gentleman connected with the medical profession, whom I afterwards met with at Ruthin, and now mayor of that place, who had subjected the body, at the second disinterment, to the closest personal scrutiny. RUTHIN. 75 hills whenl left Llanrhaiadr to resume my onward course towards Ruthin. His lingering rays were still playing upon the opposite ridges, tipping their summits with borders of burnished gold. Here and there, in rapid succession, broad and strong refractions gushed in streams down the slopes, extricating, in their flashes, the peculiar beauties of valley and mountain from the colourless shade of twilight, that was gently creeping over all terrestrial objects. There is a sort of enchant- ment belonging to these bright and fluctuating scenes, the more enjoyed and the longer remembered, per- haps, because they are in themselves rare and transitory. Such is our nature, as Hawk-eye would have said ; and when they are gone, and, it may be, gone for ever, we recall them from the cells of memory, and they come forth at our bidding in all the freshness of reality, as at the moment when they were first beheld. I have often thought that there are few, perhaps not any, of the inward emotions of the soul, but what may have their types in the attributes of external nature; and this exercise of the reflective faculty appears, mentally, very much like physical refraction, bringing back, again and again, the phantasies of years departed behind the dark mountains of the past. " Break, Phant'sy, from thy cave of cloud, And spread thy purple wings ; Create of airy forms a stream, And though it be a waking dream, Yet let it like an odour rise, To all my senses here, And fall like sleep upon my eyes, Or music on mine ear." Within three miles from Ruthin is the little enclosure 76 RUTHIN. which contains the "Three Sisters," as they are called. There is a brief narrative connected with this spot, which the collector of way-side stories would not omit to record ; because it perpetuates the remembrance of those household endearments, which, after all, consti- tute the greatest charm of human life. A dangling wicket on the right leads the wanderer from the high road, and introduces him to three noble chesnuts, which spread their gigantic branches over the green area. These venerable trees have been stricken by many a wintry blast, and tell of a long roll of years, that have swept over them since they were first planted. The " Three Sisters," as these trees are named, were planted by the three daughters of Sir William Salusbury, the Blue Stocking lord, before mentioned. The property on which they grow, has passed into the hands of Sir Walter Bagot, through a singular circumstance. The baronet had been grouse shooting amongst the hills in the neighbourhood, and had the misfortune to lose a favourite pointer dog, for the recovery of which he advertised a reward. The animal strayed into these grounds, and was sent by the noble owner to Blythfield, in Staffordshire, where Sir Walter resided. This led to an exchange of compliments, and when the baronet returned to that quarter in the following season, he paid his personal respects to the Welshman, which led to a matrimonial connection with one of the three sisters. Before the separation which this marriage occasioned, the happy trio planted each a chesnut sapling in token of their mutual affection and sisterly union, and these tender scions have grown into the three time-worn trees, which attract the traveller's eye, as much by their ex- RUTHIN CASTLE. 77 traordinary beauty as by the interesting incidents with which they stand in connection. Ruthin, Mr. Gilpin very graphically describes as being placed " on a rising ground in a dish of moun- tains/' and contains a pleasant and respectable little community. The ancient history ascends to the period of the renowned King Arthur,* and I saw in the market-place a rude block of lime-stone on which that prince is said to have beheaded his rival Huail, the brother of Gildas, the historian. When the grant of this domain was bestowed upon Lord Grey in the thirteenth century, Ruthin became a fortified place, and was surrounded by a strong wall, defended by massy octagonal towers. This town was surprised and pillaged by Owen Glendwr, in return for the injuries he had received at the hands of his rival De Grey. Ruthin Castle, or Rhyddin, the red fortress, called so from the colour of the stone employed in its erection, was built by the Lord de Grey. It did not crown the hill like that of Denbigh, but rather sprang from its shelv- ing side, with its aspect fronting the vale to the west, and consisted of two courts divided from each other by a deep fosse, cut through the rock upon which it was based, with a stout wooden bridge of communication. Its massive masonry and lofty superstructure were after the fashion of those Norman fortresses which Edward the First erected, to keep in awe his newly- vanquished subjects. So extensive was its dimensions, and so pleasant its site, that old Camden calls it " a stately and beautiful castle, capable of receiving a * Lewis Morris, the learned and ingenious Welsh antiquary, derives this name from the Celtic words "artb," a bear, and " dur," of steel. 78 RUTHIN CASTLE. numerous family," and the poet of the " Worthines of Wales " sings of it thus : " It shewes within, by dubble walles and waies, A deepe device did first erect the same ; It makes our worlde to thinke on elders daies, Because the worke was formde in such a frame." In the Civil Wars the castle was besieged by the Parliamentary forces under General Mytton, when it capitulated: but, in less than three years after that event, the garrison was disbanded, and the fortress dis- mantled and left in ruins. A new castellated mansion has been erected by Mr. West ; but the estate is the property of Miss Harriet Myddelton, one of the co- heiresses of Chirk Castle. It was on one of those remarkable days in the autumn of the year, when a cloudless sky and fervid sun gave such transparent clearness to every object, that I entered this castle domain. The time and sea- son were in a particular manner suited to a visit to this singular place, combining, as it does, the crumbling fragments of a former age, with the young creations of the present day. The walls that formerly had bristled with hostile arms, were now richly hung with festoons of " vege- table furniture," in green, and purple, and scarlet dies, like the gaudy ensigns of a friendly force gathered from all lands. The battle-cry had subsided, and the song of birds filled the air with the melody of peace. The " great High Priest of Earth " was performing his sacrifice in the heavens, and calling up incense from every herb and flower to hallow his presence. The ancient moat and lake were now covered with a thick RUTHIN CASTLE. 7 green sward, and the venerable portcullis stood in all its glory surrounded by a wreath of ivy. I ascended to the latter, and looked upon a scene of undisturbed tranquillity and gladness. The air was perfumed with the odour of the various -tribes of clematis, with eyes of white, and blue, and violet, peeping out of their Virgin's Bower. The walls, those blood-stained walls of other days, were clothed with the coloured parasites of this and the western hemisphere, in all the varied livery of the season ; below and on the sides of the hill, the firm red tints of the hawthorn gaily intermingled with the changing hues of the forest ; around and above was the gleaming atmosphere, arched with a sky of peerless cerulean. The secret passages which are yet preserved, intro - duce the traveller to one and another vestige of the ancient castle, until by a flight of steps he ascends into what was once the banquet room, hung round with " nature's tapestry," as it was formerly with the webs of the Gobelins. The visitor is then conducted through a long dark vault in which used to be the ancient dun- geons, and is made to undergo the mimic terrors of the chain and ball, which are intended to recal the real horrors of that dismal place. There yet remain to be seen the ancient court-yard, and its deep central well, which supplied the castle's garrison as it does the modern mansion with water. The present residence is built in architectural keeping with its predecessor, but its appearance is somewhat disfigured with the cement jointing of the stone-work. The Engine Passage is magnificent, and extends one hundred and sixty-eight feet. The rooms are adorned with articles of vertu from 80 RUTHIN. the Italian states, beautiful drawings by Kiserman, models of Mont Blanc, Chamouni, and the pass of the Simplon, with alabaster vases, some valuable pictures, and specimens of ancient furniture of Henry the Eighth. The view from the Eagle Tower is very extensive, and commands the course of the vale to the little port of Rhyl, in the extreme distance. The visitor must not fail to pass through the armoury, which contains a rich variety of national specimens arranged in chronological order, and many from foreign lands. The church of Ruthin was anciently conventual, and belonged to a religious order of monks, under the alluring title of Bon-hommes. The institution, how- ever, changed its character, and, during the rule of John de Grey, in the early part of the fourteenth cen- tury, was formed into a collegiate chapter. The carved ceiling is a specimen of curious workmanship, thrown into small squares, ornamented with nearly five hun- dred different hieroglyphics, heraldic emblems, and other subjects, of which I afterwards saw a very neatly executed drawing, by an ingenious young gentleman of this place. There are several monuments, ancient and modern, but the most interesting is that raised to the memory of Dr. Gabriel Goodman, who was founder of the Grammar School. The good doctor also afforded his valuable support to many able scholars, and greatly assisted the indefatigable Camden in his travels, for whom he afterwards obtained a mastership in West- minster school. This place gave birth to the celebrated Godfrey Goodman, who was successively a high church- man the panegyrist of Cromwell and a convert to the " ancient faith." He died at his house at Ty-du, WREXHAM. 81 in Carnarvonshire, in the pale of the Romish church, leaving this confession in his last testament : " I do acknowledge the Church of Rome to be the mother church, and I do verily believe that no other church hath any salvation in it, but only as far as it concurs with the Church of Rome." The mill is an object of some antiquarian interest, which, from the red stone cross in the middle of its eastern gable, is supposed by the Rev. Archdeacon New- come, the amiable and learned historian of the place, to have formed the chapel of the castle garrison. This conjecture is strengthened by the remains of several pointed arches, which lead into the interior of the buildings, and strangely contrast their present servile uses with the holy purposes to which they were ori- ginally applied. The way to Wrexham, which is distant from Ruthin about sixteen miles, is full of the majesty of nature. Moel Ciw, Fromsa, and Vainol, continue in succession, with their summits piercing the clouds. Through a gorge at the foot of the latter mountain, the turnpike road pursues its course, with the black hills of Flint- shire on the left, and the enormous range of Cyrn y Brain, in the sister county of Denbigh, on the right ; and then making a detour, runs rapidly down the more open country, crossing OflVs Dyke in its progress, till it brings the traveller within the precincts of "Trim Wricksam towne, a pearle of Denbighshiere." Whatever this place might have been in the days of the poet Churchyard, there is little now worth obser- G 82 WREXHAM. vation, except the church, which is written down as one of the " seven wonders of Wales." The quadran- gular tower of this building rises one hundred and thirty-five feet in height, with projecting abutments, crocketted pinnacles, and open worked balustrade, with four pierced lantern turrets crowning the top. The interior is spacious, divided into nave and side aisles, with conglomerated columns and pointed arches, and a ceiling of the most exquisite groined oak in pannels, ornamented with angel-heads. The church contains two fine pictures from the pencil of Reubens ; but the chancel possesses an object of the greatest admiration to all visitors, in the monu- ment erected to the memory of Mrs. Mary Myddleton, which represents the resurrection, at that point of time when, from the sacred testimony, " The trumpet shall sound, and the dead shall be raised." A beautiful figure, clad in the purest drapery and in the most graceful attitude, appears as if bursting from the tomb, and rising from the sarcophagus with the countenance of an angel. The attributes of the broken lid and the falling pyramid, with cherubic forms supporting the rising saint, make up a scene of extraordinary interest. This monument is from the chisel of Roubilliac, a native of Lyons, and is considered superior to his statue of the duke of Argyle, in the character of Elo- quence, in Westminster Abbey. This celebrated man was the protegee of Sir Edward Walpole, the Maecenas of the day, and it is somewhat surprising that this beautiful piece is not to be found in the list of his productions given by Horace Walpole WREXHAM. 83 in his catalogue of the works of distinguished artists.* There are several other ancient, and some handsome modern, monuments in this church. A curious piece of antiquity stands at the east end, consisting of a brazen eagle and pedestal of the same metal, formerly used as a reading desk, presented by John ap Gryffydd ap Dafydd of Ystwan, in this neighbourhood. There are, also, many quaint inscriptions in the consecrated ground that surrounds the church, which might do very well for a " Chapter on Churchyards." * Very soon after Roubilliac arrived in England, and was then work- ing as journeyman to Carter, a maker of monuments, having spent an evening at Vauxhall, on his return he picked up a pocket-book, which he found to enclose several bank notes of value. He immediately advertised the circumstance, and Sir Edward Walpole claimed the pocket-book. Justly appreciating and remunerating the integrity of the poor young man, and admiring the specimens of his skill and talent which he exhibited, he promised to patronise him through life ; and he faithfully performed that promise. Walpole's Lives. G 2 CHAPTER, V. RUABON WYNNSTAY CHIRK. Now, Wynnstay ! comes thy wide far-spreading park, With its green bosom grateful to the eye, Stretching all brightly to the valley, dark And shelter'd from the scorching beams on high. Still through the old rich tinted trees we gaze Down the wild vistas of th' encircling wood, While startled deer and fawns, in sportive maze, Fly from the knolls where they have browsing stood. WILKINSON'S SKETCHES OF WALES. " I AM not much unwilling to peregrine motion for a time/' is the observation of that most worthy per- sonage Mr. Francis Osborne, in his letter to his son, whilst making the tour of Europe. The sentiment accorded with my own, and my restless foot was soon in " peregrine motion " towards Ruabon, which I reached through a road more remarkable for the dingy and repulsive characteristics of a mining and manufac- turing district, than for any of those beautiful objects of natural scenery which solace the spirit of a wayfarer in Wales. The church of Ruabon, however, is quite another thing, and contains some of the finest works of art from the chisels of Rhysbrac and Nollekens. Amongst these is the monument to Sir W. W. Wynne, solicitor- general in the time of James the Second, represented WYNNSTAY. 85 in the act of addressing the assembly at St. Stephen's, with a tablet bearing this motto " Assertori Libertatis Publicae." There is another to his descendant, and Lady Rennetta his wife, the latter under the character of Hope, sur- rounded with the attributes of the cheerful goddess. Besides these there is one containing the recumbent figures of a mailed crusader and his wife, in the dress of the times, encircled by sculptured figures of knights and pilgrims in ornamented niches. The ample gates of Wynnstay Park fly open to the visitor, whether he come on foot, or horse, or even in a carriage. The appearance of the sleek and portly warder seems to announce that the traveller is entering upon the region of peace and plenty. The approach to the mansion is by a spacious gravel road about a mile in length, lined on each side with stately trees, " each one separately a patriarch of the forest/' This avenue is, perhaps, the most beautiful in the kingdom, describing its bright ochre line gradually ascending to the point of vision, till it suddenly disappears on the right, and glides forward through a regiment of oaks and chest- nuts to the princely hall of this ancient family. I turned off to the right almost immediately on entering the domain, to take a more discursive view of the grounds, and crossing a rude wooden bridge that spans the brawling brook, skirted the margin of the lower lake, and wended my way " through glades and glooms" till I reached the bath. A clear stream of water is kept perpetually running through the lion figure-heads on each side of the reservoir, and the 86 WYNNSTAY. mosaic floor at the bottom appears to dance in the current of the lucid element. The path now ascends through every variety of pros- pect, distant and near, and passes within view of the mimic cascade, which is formed by diverting the numerous brooks and rills in the neighbourhood into a confluence, and pouring their assembled waters, in a descent of thirty feet, over a lofty ledge formed of arti- ficial rock-work, and covered with mosses, lichens, and evergreens, which sparkled underneath and around in all their varied and glossy colouring. The Laurel Walk, as it is called, succeeds, and leads the visitor to the ele- vated glade, on which stands the Obelisk, a fluted Doric column, one hundred feet in height, supporting an entablature and a circular balustrade, the whole sur- mounted by a magnificent bronze urn encircled with goats' heads. The pedestal is sixteen feet square, decorated with four eagles holding wreaths of oak leaves and acorns, finely moulded in bronze. The court in which the cenotaph stands describes an area of nearly eighty feet, and is protected by massy iron balustrades. A door opens to the spiral staircase, which leads to the top of the obelisk, over which is an inscrip- tion to Sir Watkin William Wynne, in remembrance of whom it was erected " by his affectionate mother," and on the north side, in letters of copper, is recorded this sentence : " FILIO OPTIMO, MATER EHEU ! SUPERSTES." The road, after leaving this place, speedily glides from underneath the lofty covering of the clustering trees, and enters upon the open spacious park on which WYNNSTAY. 87 stands the noble mansion. Wynnstay, or, as it was formerly called, Watt-Stay, from that celebrated ram- part having passed through that part now enclosed within the domain, occupies the rising ground in a spacious park, comprehending a circuit of twelve miles. The building has been enlarged and modernised at various times, according to the taste of its successive owners, and is, therefore, in some respects deficient in unity of design and strict architectural keeping. It is, however, a superb modern edifice, spacious as the hospi- tality of its noble owner, and looks to be the palace of some luxurious Roman. Within sight is the broad lake, with its island of oaks in the centre, containing three specimens of extraordinary growth, shadowing their gigantic figures in the clear waters. Herds of bound- ing deer were scouring the park in all directions. The thick forest that crowded the hollow, and climbed the banks of the rapid Dee, was full in view, with the red flag of England waving merrily in the wind from the top of Waterloo tower, announcing the presence of the princely owner in the family hall of his ancestors ; and far beyond were the riven rocks, looking like frag- ments of a ruined city, and the enormous chain of the Berwyn, stretching itself like a huge leviathan in a sea of clouds. Wynnstay possesses some fine pictures, principally portraits, by Vandyck, Sir Joshua Reynolds, and Sir Godfrey Kneller, of whom it has been said by Walpole, " that, where he offered one picture to fame, he sacri- ficed twenty to lucre." How unlike that glorious father in the art, Apelles, who, when he was rebuked for his tardiness, replied, " I paint for perpetuity." 88 WYNNSTAY. Adjoining the house is the building formerly devoted to theatrical entertainments, at the Christmas revels, in which Sir Watkin usually took a part. But Melpomene has resigned the honours of her mimic reign, and the speculum vita is exchanged for one of the most sub- stantial acts of real existence. In September annually is held, in this same building, an agricultural meeting, at which takes place a liberal distribution of prizes, which is succeeded by an agrestian fete of the most hospitable character, and finally wound up, at a late hour, by the mazes of the dance and the festivities of the ball-room. The road from the hall stretches across the park, and then creeps down through a shady dingle by the side of a murmuring brook, till it again ascends and opens out upon Belen Tower. This building was erected in commemoration of the Cambrian legion, which served with so much credit in the Irish rebel- lion under the command of Sir Watkin. It rises from a square stone court surrounded with battlements, and comprehends the most magnificent and picturesque view that can be presented to the eye. On one side are the Kuabon hills, and the delicate line and fairy arches of Pont Cysilltau clearly denned, with the Vale of Llangollen spreading far away before the sight. The dark conical hill on which stand the giant fragments of Dinas Bran with its towering background of limestone rock, rises abruptly at one point ; and on their left stretches the booming line of the Berwyn range which completely shuts in the view. Near the park the wind- ing Dee makes a horse shoe bend, and pursues its majestic course through the dingle of the Marten, WYNNSTAY. 89 which lies immediately before the beholder.* The river rolls its turbulent tide through a deep ravine hol- lowed out of the precipitous rocks. Its banks rise into cones, or spread into heavy lines, clothed from the summit to the verge of the stream with the foliage of the forest. All around was a warm and luminous atmosphere, and the broad woody masses were lighted up with the force and vigour of those rich contrasts M'hich the declining year had brought upon them. The local colours of the objects were in harmonious keep- ing. The gray rocks blended with the tender tints of the falling leaves, and as the eye swept the beautiful perspective, it fell on the bosky vale and dark forest on mountain, hill, and stream till the prospect faded away into mere atmospheric tones which preserved the hues while they veiled the objects from distant vision. The interior of the tower contains in the centre a pedestal bearing a marble urn, and an Italian sarco- phagus on the side. A tablet on the wall, surmounted by a Roman cap, records the names of the officers and privates of the British fencible cavalry who fell in the war of the rebellion, with this inscription underneath : "Thus lives the soldier's name who fought and fell; Thus Cambria to her latest sons shall tell How her own bands her ancient Britons, bore Her dragon banner on lerne's shore. By courage, zeal, and discipline maintained Her ancient glory which her sires had gained ; And true to honour, and their country's cause, Sealed with their blood the triumph of her laws." * This place has received this title from a species of lizard with which the neighbouring woods used to abound. It was this scene which produced such enchantment on the mind of the tasteful Lyttelton when he first observed it. 90 WYNNSTAY. A circular dome crowns the tower, which bears within and without a bronzed wreath of oak leaves and goats' heads, designed by the pencil of Lady Delamere. From its elevated situation, that " chartered libertine," the mountain breeze, blows upon it from all quarters, and by the disorder it produced amongst my tablets, I might have been writing in the celebrated " Hall of Winds " of classic land. When I left Belen, the old lady who appears as the warder of the tower directed me into the winding path which led through the thick forest I had just been looking upon, to the bank of the river. " Keep the side of the stream as your guide/' she said, " and avoid every inviting path that would take you to the uplands ; " I did so, and following the good lady's advice to the letter, soon found myself on a track more full of beauty, at least of its kind, than I ever had traversed before. The road, which was broad enough for a car- riage, and in most parts in excellent order, traced the margin of the sounding Dee, embroidered on each side by overhanging woods, sometimes gliding majestically along over its deep even channel, and again tumbling over jagged rocks with the roar and force of a cataract. I was the only traveller upon this path, and no sound was heard to break the peculiar solitude of the place, except my own step, the hoarse stream, or the com- panion-note of the wood-pigeon. Every one who has seen the masterly pictures of Robson, illustrative of the wilds and heathy hills of the Scottish highlands, must have felt the power which that artist possessed in pro- ducing the impression of extreme desolateness, by the introduction of a single subject of animated life in his ': .-,., ,-.,_- CHIRK. 91 landscapes. And so indeed I felt it, in relation to the solitude of this place, when, after traversing a consider- able distance through the forest shade in almost un- broken silence, I came suddenly upon a woodman's cottage, surrounded by the cheerful accessories of do- mestic life, with a happy group of rosy-faced children peeping at the stranger from a garden promontory, surmounted by luxuriant holyhocks serrated with flower-bells, as gay and blooming as the cherub coun- tenances which I detected, laughingly, looking upon me. The path winds its tortuous course of nearly three miles and then issues out at the foot of New Bridge, from a magnificent lodge and gate belonging to the proprietor of Wynnstay. From hence is the mail road to the little village of Chirk, which I reached in rather more than an hour's travel, and took up my quarters at the Red Hand* which exposes its naked palm on the roadside at its immediate entrance. In all my wanderings through the Principality, I had never seen any edifice in such excellent order as the church of this place. f It had been recently repaired and refitted by the parish, at an expense of j2,000 ; and the quiet colouring of the walls the old carved * The Eed Hand, the crest of the Biddulph family, the owners of Chirk Castle. It is difficult to say why this should have been chosen as a crest, in a land where the Red Hand is the appellation of the manslayer llawrudd, or, as it is now written, llofrndd. f The well-known Dr. Sacheverell has been said by some writers to have been inducted into this vicarage, and, after a suspension of three years, to have been conducted back by five thousand of his parishioners in triumph. This, however, is a mistake, as his name appears only in the list of rectors of Syllatyn, a neighbouring parish. This notorious man "published two sermons, one upon the Communication of Sin, an assize sermon, at Derby, the other upon the Perils of False Brethren, in 92 CHIRK CASTLE. pulpit and reading-desk the rich pannelled oak ceil- ing all bore evidence to the taste which had designed and superintended its execution. The walls were adorned with some chaste and beautiful marble tablets in memory of different members of the Duncannon family. There is one also to the celebrated Dr. Bal- canqual, the favourite of Charles the First. This sin- gular man had drawn upon himself the hatred of the Scotch Covenanters, by whom he was considered as a London, in 1709 ; for both of which he was impeached and silenced three years, and the sermons burnt by the common hangman in the presence of the Lord Mayor and the two Sheriffs of London and Middlesex. He became afterwards rector of St. Andrew's, Holborn, in the following manner: When the impeachment was over, the ministry took very little notice of him, and treated him with great indifference ; but, upon the rectory of St. Andrew's, Holborn, being vacant, the doctor applied to them for the living, but they had no regard to his solicitation, upon which he wrote to Dr. Swift, with whom he had a very slender acquaintance, to request his interest with the government for that parish, and set forth how much he had suffered for them and their cause. Doctor Swift immediately carried this letter to Lord Bolingbroke, then Secretary of State, who railed much at Sacheverell, calling him a busy, intermeddling fellow, a prig, and an incendiary, who had set the kingdom in a flame, which could not be extinguished, and therefore deserved censure instead of a reward. To which Swift replied : ' True, my lord ; but let me tell you a short story. In a sea-fight in the reign of Charles II., there was a very bloody engagement between the English and Dutch fleets ; in the herxt of which, a Scotch seaman was very severely bit by a louse in his neck, which he caught, and stooping down to crack it between his nails, many of the sailors near him had their heads taken off by a chain shot from the enemy, which scattered their brains and blood about him. Upon this he had compassion upon the poor louse, returned him to his place, and bid him live there at discretion, for, as he had saved his life, he was bound in gratitude to save his.' The recital of this put my Lord Bolingbroke into a fit of laughter, who, when it was over, said, 'The louse shall have the living for your story,' and soon after Sacheverell was presented to it. Supplement to Swift's Works, in 1779, vol. 2. CHIRK. 93 spy and an incendiary. In the civil wars which deso- lated this unhappy reign, he had taken refuge from the popular fury at Chirk Castle, where he died on Christ- mas day, 1645. There are also several splendid monu- ments to the different members of the Myddelton family, remarkable for the purity of their materials, truth and beauty of design, and exquisite execution. The churchyard is spacious, and has a congregation of tombs and monumental stones. Eight venerable yews, that bear the chronicle of centuries on their aged trunks, and have themselves been gazed upon by gene- ration after generation of living men, spread their funereal shade over the graves of the departed. A churchyard like this is always suggestive of deep reflec- tion. The mural mementoes tell of those, who once " lived, and moved, and had their being " in this crowded earth, and 'the stranger is ready to lift up his voice and cry, " Where are they ? " There is a satis- factory answer, not in the eastern echo, but in the " sure word of prophecy." "Although from darkness born, to darkness fled, We know that light beyond surrounds the whole ; The man survives, though the weird corpse be dead, And HE who dooms the flesh, redeems the soul." A little below the village of Chirk is the aqueduct which conveys the Ellesmere canal across the valley and the river Ceiriog. It measures the length of two hundred and thirty yards, and then runs through a tunnel of nearly the same distance. It is built of stone, and consists of ten arches ; the piers of which are pyra- midal, rising sixty -five feet in height, and sufficiently broad to contain the channel of water and a convenient 94 CHIRK CASTLE. towing-path. Before "mine host" of the Hand was out of bed, I was seated upon the stone bridge that clasps the river a little below the village, and in full view of the silver stream, and the green valley that opens its perspective through the arches of this beauti- ful work of art. After leaving the bridge, I turned to the right and gaining the level of the canal, soon stood upon the dizzy elevation of the aqueduct itself. The Ceiriog, that historical river, had often been the sub- ject of my day dreams when my mind had been brought into connection with the stirring events with which it was associated. I saw it now for the first time rolling onward its unceasing current in these " palmy days " of peace, as heretofore, when hostile chiefs and princes pitched their tents upon its banks, and ensanguined its waters with the foeman's blood. I discerned through the mists of time the pennons of Albion and Normandy, of Guienne, Anjou, and Gas- cony, floating in the breeze, led by Henry of England,* and on the distant hills the white camps of that con- gregated array which had poured from north and south of Wales, Powisland, and the district that stretches between the Severn and the Wye, awaiting, like men resolved, the dreadful struggle of victory or death. I * The soubriquet of Court Mantle was given to this monarch, from his having introduced the Angovin fashion of wearing short cloaks or mantles, into England. This costume succeeded to the Asiatic fashion of trailing garments and long sleeves, which prevailed from the time of William Rufus to that of his successor Stephen. Henry's heraldic cognizance of a Fox with the tail dependent was curiously symbolical of the arts he practised, and the defeats he sustained from the Welsh, and the manner in which he was frequently obliged to retreat from their country. CHIRK CASTLE. 95 recalled the onslaught of that self-devoted band, which stealing silently across this dark stream, fell upon the royal guard, and had nearly penetrated to the monarch's tent I followed on, and beheld the finger of Fate beckoning forward the serried lines of Europe's chi- valry towards the strong mountain holds of the gallant Britons I heard the rattling rain of heaven pouring upon their slippery steps I marked the stealthy stra- tagems of the watchful foe I saw famine and slaughter brooding over the invading hosts. The thin mists from the hill tops could not have dispersed more fluently than did this mighty army, when the battle-cry of " St. George and Victory ! " became exchanged for the hurried step of defeated men flying for their lives.* The clarion of war was again sounded in Cromwell's time on these lovely banks. The battery of the Pro- tector was levelled against Chirk Castle, and the for- tress was finally taken, and in part demolished. The view, looking down the stream, embraces the stone bridge, with its single arch clasping the breadth of the river the pleasant village and gray-towered church the hurrying river the thick forest, embrac- ing circle after circle of green meadows, filled with flocks and herds, and the distant hills of Cheshire and Shropshire composing the back-ground. On the oppo- site side is the upper part of the little valley, which is bisected by the aqueduct, circumscribed by the pic- turesque rocks, and dotted with woody masses. The Berwyn range, which stretches westerly, shuts in the * Adwy'r Beddau, or the pass of Graves, commemorates that part of Ofia's Dyke in this neighbourhood, where the bodies of the slain were buried. 96 CHIRK CASTLE. view in that direction, and the Ceiriog, winding round a forest headland, is lost sight of in the defile that skirts the castle domain. The square form of Chirk Castle, with its bastion- like towers, appears at first a clumsy pile of building, but, as the foot of the visitor draws near, his eye takes in its architectural design and acknowledges its magni- ficence. The gateway in front leads through a massy tower into a broad quadrangular court, round which are ranged the different apartments, having a hand- some colonnaded piazza on the eastern side. The gal- lery contains a large collection of pictures and por- traits, amongst which are those of Sir Thomas Myd- dleton, clad in armour, the great duke of Ormond, and Sir Orlando Bridgman, in his robes. Near these are portraits of Lady Bridgman, and the countess of War- wick, afterwards wife of the celebrated Addison. But the object of greatest curiosity in this collection is the landscape-marine piece, by a foreign artist, who, mis- taking his direction to paint a flock of sheep, in con- nection with the waterfall of Pistyll E/haiadr, in Mont- gomeryshire, has introduced a fleet of ships riding on a sea created by his pencil for their purpose, in the midst of dry land.* Chirk Castle, or Castell Crogen, as the former fortress on the site of which it is built was called, stands upon a rising eminence, and is said to command a view over seventeen counties. It was erected in the reign of Edward the First, by Roger * The painter felt himself nettled by the presumption of this direc- tion, and replied tartly : " You want some sheeps in it ? Well, well, I will put you some sheeps in it ! " And he accordingly painted the water as falling into the sea, with ships lying at anchor close to the rocks. CHIRK CASTLE. 97 Mortimer, on whom the lordship was bestowed, and is intimately connected with the bloody wars which deso- lated this beautiful land up to the time of the Pro- tectorate. The park is ornamented with groups, and single subjects, of trees, which would form a study for the painter. I saw many trailing their heavy branches on the ground, forming a circumference of nearly three hundred feet. The magnificent iron gateway is related to be the design and workmanship of a country blacksmith. CHAPTER VI. LLANGOLLEN DINAS BEAN VALLE CRUCIS CORWEN. How gloriously yon mid-day sun Colours the hills and valleys of the earth ! How beautiful is nature ! Spirit dwells In every golden ray of yon fixed light ; And bliss ! the soul that cannot find it there Was made for utter darkness, and would miss Beatitude in Heaven. MATURIN. THE gray mists of the morning, which had hung lightly on all the surrounding objects, pencilling them out into those varieties of form which composed with the dim features of the landscape, were now fast drip- ping from the wide world of leaves, or rolling away in broad folds, one over another, revealing the glorious scene of nature, richly emblazoned in all the heraldry of autumn. *; It was mid-day when I left Chirk, and retracing my steps along the main road for a short distance, I turned 98 LLANGOLLEN. westerly from Newbridge, near which place the Ceiriog forms its junction with the Dee, and crossing the strait line of OnVs Dyke, wound my way near the base of Craig-wen and the grounds of Plas yn Pentre, to the elbow of the latter river, before it curves off in all the gladsomeness of its newly-acquired freedom, and makes the circuit of Llangollen fechan. On the left rose the huge summit of Cefn-uchaf ; and on the right the cone of Dinas Bran pinnacled by the fragments of its ancient castle, with the last beams of the western sun bathing the hill side in a flood of light, as I entered the town of LLANGOLLEN. A traveller forty years ago, after leaving this tho- roughfare, remarks, " that it has but one tolerable inn, and of the accommodation at that, the less is said the better." Time has, however, wrought wonderful changes here, as well as in other parts of the Prin- cipality; and there are now two excellent inns, the Hand, which appears to be a favourite sign in this neighbourhood, and the King's Head. This little town is evidently in an improving condition ; but, like most other places in a transition state, it exhibits a motley mixture of old and new buildings, with their usual accessories of clean pathways and dirty streets. The church is an ancient structure, dedicated to Collen, a saint belonging to the British calendar, from whom the name of the place is derived. It is in the second style of Gothic architecture, which prevailed till the time of Henry V., and possesses a beautiful ceiling of carved oak, two richly coloured paintings of stained glass by Eginton and Evans, and an ancient chased brass tablet to Magdalen Trevor, of Trevor Hall. The churchyard LLANGOLLEN. 99 appeared to be kept in rather a slovenly condition, and contains but few monuments worthy of notice, except that to the Honourable Miss Ponsonby and Lady Elizabeth Butler, the ladies of Llangollen, as they were by way of distinction called, and their faithful servant Mary Caryll, which occupy one spacious tomb railed off and planted with yews. Plas Newydd, for so many years the residence of the fair recluses of this lovely vale, stands on a gentle emi- nence close to the town, ornamented with a carved railing in front, and decorated with grotesque gables and ornaments. The present proprietors are also two maiden ladies, who seem disposed to perpetuate the conventual celebrity of this place ; and are certainly not less urbane than the former possessors, in permit- ting visitors to gratify their taste in the inspection of the beautiful grounds. Attended by my cicerone, the gardener, I passed from one object of natural beauty to another the vale of Pen-gwern surrounded by part of the Berwyn chain, the woody dingle, and brawling brook of the Cyflymed, with many others, which are supplied with the most gratifying conveniences for their leisurely inspection. After all, I must confess, filled as was my mind by the impressions of the ma- jestic scenes with which it had become familiar, the miniature landscapes supplied by the situation of Plas Newydd, fell far short of the anticipation I had formed, and they forcibly recalled the emotion I remembered to have felt after viewing the mimic hills and vales, and passionless cascades of the poet Shenstone, in his retreat at the Leasowes, near Hagley. It was not, therefore, without some degree of satisfaction that I H2 100 DINAS BRAN. descended the hill, threaded my way through the winding streets of Llangollen, and reached my com- fortable quarters at the Hand Hotel, where the tra- veller fond of cwrw da will meet with it in perfection. The bridge of Llangollen is an ancient structure, of the fourteenth century, and was erected by John Tre- vor, bishop of St. Asaph. It is a beautiful, and, in some respects, singular specimen of pontile architecture, and consists of four pointed arches, resting upon trian- gular piers, the two smallest occupying the central position, the entire fabric spanning the channel from rock to rock. The Dee, which is here a broad river, rolls its turbulent waters over a rocky bed, sometimes smooth and shelving, at others interrupted by insulated masses of rude granite, pouring its cold and ceaseless tide into a chasm of considerable depth, having a salmon-leap and weir below the bridge.* Castell Dinas Bran is best approached from this side. The ascent is steep and difficult, rising upwards of nine hundred feet above the level of the Dee, at Llangollen bridge. The hill is, nevertheless, covered with green * Old Churchyard says : " It flowes with winde, although no rayne there be And swelles like sea, with waves and foming flood : A wonder sure, to see this river Dee, With winde alone, to waxe so wyld and wood, Make such a sturre, as water would be mad, And shew such life, as tho' some spreete it had. A cause there is, a nature for the same, To bring this floode, in such straunge ease and frame." And then he tells us in a note in the margin what this cause is. " There is a poole in Meryonethshiere of three myle long, rageth so by storme, that it makes this river flowe." DINAS BRAN. 101 sward, and, on the lower part, affords excellent pasture for sheep. The pleasant mansion of Mr. Drinkwater, a descendant of the celebrated author of the " Siege of Gibraltar," decorates the inferior slope, and his flocks graze on the mountain side. The shepherds' paths tra- verse the hill in all directions, and by one of these, cut in the steepest places with easy earth-steps, I reached the summit. The black shapeless ruins of the ancient fortress cover the crown of the hill, and, when entire, extended over a space nearly one hundred yards in length, and fifty in breadth. No date can be assigned to its erection, and the name of its founder is buried in the same oblivion. It is believed to be one of the pri- mitive Welsh castles, and to have partaken largely in the changes and barbarous events of the feudal age. In the thirteenth century, Gryifydd ap Madoc, a person notorious for his injustice and oppression, was the lord of Dinas Bran, and took refuge in this stronghold against the wrath of his subjects. In the conflict, car- ried on by Owen Glyndwr, for the deliverance of his country, this castle was seized upon by that hero, and maintained as an important post in the bloody warfare that followed. The period of its desolation is as much a matter of obscurity as the date of its erection. In Elizabeth's time it is described by Leland as being dis- mantled, and the veracious chronicler relates a curious story in reference to it. An eagle, of the species at one time common in Wales, was accustomed to come regu- larly every year to build her nest upon this rocky site. The bird's habit was observed by the inhabitants of the neighbourhood, and her nest was constantly deprived of the young. In perpetrating this act, the robber, when 102 DINAS BRAN. he was lowered down for the purpose, was obliged to shield his head from the vengeance of the parent bird by one basket, while he deposited the stolen eaglets in that in which he descended. This eyry of the eagle was once the abode of one of the most celebrated beauties of North Wales, "the lovely flower of Trevor's race." She was beloved by Howel ap Einion Lygli w, who addressed to her an impassioned ode, descriptive of the state of his heart. This poet and his mistress are gone into the land of forgetfulness ; but the ode was found written on parchment in the castle, and has been perpetuated in a spirited transla- tion in the collection of the Rev. Evan Evans. The lady was cruel and the bard faithful. There are few visiters will stand among the ruins of Dynosebrane, as Churchyard writes it, without calling to mind Mevanwy Vechan, " The princely maid In scarlet robes of state arrayed ; " or the forlorn lover, who has described himself as " Pale, with despair, and robb'd of sleep, Whose only bus'ness is to weep." Nothing now is left of this historical fabric, but the broken walls by which it was once defended, the traces of that deep trench cut through the solid rock, by which its most accessible part was rendered impregnable, the remains of a small chapel used by the garrison, with broken towers and tottering fragments, the heralds of its former strength and power, which were, from their massivenesss, apparently intended to be coeval with the " eternal rock" on which the fortress was built. DINAS BRAN. 103 I stood amongst those frowning ruins "the antiquity of life" to look on the smiling vale .spread in beauty beneath, and enclosed on all sides by gigantic rocks and towering hills, reared by the almighty finger of Heaven's own architect. The features of the landscape were the same as in days of yore, except that peace had allured the happy flocks to graze upon her pastures, and secu- rity, the child of peace, had beckoned forth the hus- bandman to his labour, to till the ground, and gather the orchard, to sow the crumbling fallows, and reap the golden harvest. " No eyes, but those of a poet, are worthy to behold the valley of Llangollen," says the author of " Modern Accomplishments." No one, indeed, but he, who looks upon nature with the impassioned eye of a lover, whose heart yields itself unreservedly to the sweet influences which its beauties and harmonies inspire, and whose spirit yearns after the bright pictures which have been traced upon his memory; who feels, as Bishop Hurd remarks, the fine accord that exists " between the world of sense and of soul," can sufficiently understand the ineffable delight which such a scene as that of Llan- gollen vale affords. On the left abruptly rise the bold and riven limestone rocks of Eglwyseg, and the heavy mountain chain which divides the fertile lands of Clwydd and Llangollen from each other. On the right, the bulky range of the Berwyn stretches its protracted lines, carrying the vision to its southern boundary near the Tan-nant. Gentle elevations and green slopes screen the mountain bases; while friths of verdure, through which flow the hill torrents, and deep glens and hollow defiles trace their varied lines on the face of 104 PONT Y CYSYLLTAU. the landscape. Through the broad base of the valley the sportive Dee winds its sinuous course, here and there discovering its sparkling stream ; the rich umbrage of the painted woods was reflected back from its bosom, and received in silent homage the sweet voice of its waters. Not a cloud overshadowed the clear blue sky : the bright beams of the sun lay basking on the earth's surface, gilding the mountain's brow, and throwing revelations of light into the depths of the valley. The classical fabric of Pont y Cysylltau, spanning the vale with its nineteen arches, and the numerous mansions, villas, and picturesque cottages dotting the landscape, presented a scene of beauty and of luxury upon which the eye delighted to dwell. The fields had not yet lost all their flowers, rthe fox-glove and wild valerian sought the shelter of the ruins, the variegated heaths sur- rounded the hill sides, and those tribes of fern, that seem to inherit the Welsh mountains as their home, bent gracefully before the breeze. The foliage of the trees, from the eminence on which I stood, lay level before me, and gleamed in the sheen of the sun like a meadow of bright colours, waving with the gentle wind into billows of light and shade, and even the bare slaty rocks gave back their purple hues to enrich the scene. The ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey * lie about two miles from Llangollen, and a pleasant path it was that I had chosen to reach them. A stile on the right leads the visiter over a field's length or more from the road, and places him amidst the fine ash trees that veil the decaying remains of former greatness from the gaze of * This was a wealthy institution, which may be judged of by the magnificent hospitality used by the monks, who are described by Owairi VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY. 105 the passing traveller. Monachlog Llan Egwestl, the church of monks in the valley, or the monastery in the valley, was founded by Gryffydd ap Madoc Maelor, the son of that rapacious lord of Dinas Bran before mentioned, in the early part of the twelfth century, and its architecture partakes of the Early English style. A beautifully arched doorway richly decorated, over which is a large window consisting of three divisions elaborately ornamented, surmounted by a circular arch, having above it a marigold or rose-light of the most exquisite workmanship, admits the visiter into the area of the building. The transepts, side aisles, and private cha- pels of the brotherhood, are easily made out, especially by the aid of the cicerone who attends the ringing of the entrance-bell. The pointed arches and clustered pillars, with their rich mouldings and capitals, all attest the former magnificence of this place, and the profuse expenditure bestowed upon it. The stately east end as having the table usually covered with four courses of meat served up in silver dishes, with sparkling claret for their general beverage. " Many have told of the monks of old What a saintly race they were ; But 'tis most true that a merrier crew Could scarce be found elsewhere ; For they sung and laughed, And the rich wine quaffed, And lived on the daintiest cheer. " And the abbot meek, with his form so sleek, Was the heartiest of them all, And would take his place, with a smiling face, When the refection-bell would call ; And they sung and laughed, And the rich wine quaffed, Till they shook the olden wall." 106 VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY. is in fine preservation, and has three lancet-shaped windows. The ample area is now usurped by a grove of splendid ash-trees, towering in pride far above the highest points of the ruin. Herds of kine graze within the sacred enclosure, and flocks of sable birds may be seen strutting amongst the fallen fragments, raising their notes of gratulation to their fellows. " I doe love these ancient ruynes ; We never treade upon them but we sette Our foote upon some reverend historic." The distance from the abbey to the pillar of Eliseg is only a few hundred yards, and when I was on the spot it stood in the midst of a turnip-field. This monument is reared upon the centre of a slightly elevated mound, from a square basement, with its present mutilated shaft rising about eight feet in height. Its history is short. The pillar was erected to the memory of Eliseg by Concenn or Congen, his great grandson, and the descendant of the chief named Brochwel Yscythrog, who was defeated at the battle of Chester, in 607. In the civil wars it was thrown down by the iconoclasts of that age, who mistook it for a popish cross, and it remained in a broken recumbent condition for more than a century, when what remained of it was restored by the patriotism of Mr. T. Lloyd, of Trevor Hall, with a suitable inscription recording the fact. This monu- mental column stands in its loneliness within sight of the abbey ruins, nearly at the end of the little vale. On all sides rise those astonishing tiers of limestone rocks which bear the names of Craig Arthur and Craig y Forwyn, or the Maiden's Crag, with opposing hills MOEL GERAINT. 107 verdant and smooth, covered here and there with thick plantations of pine and larch. This narrow valley looks like a map of meadows, and seems to be the abode of peace and plenty. The Avon Eglwysegle runs through the ancient abbey grounds, which in former days used to supply the holy brotherhood with trout and pastime. The river still flows as fast and musically as heretofore ; but the monks have given place, as Mr. Pennant rather oddly says, " to a race of warm and wealthy yeomanry, undevoured, as yet, by the great men of the country." I turned my steps towards Llangollen by the road which leads through the mountains from that place to Ruthin, and approached the village just as the setting sun was tipping the skeleton fortress in rays, and play- ing with peculiar splendour upon the opposite and highest point of the Berwyn chain called Moel Geraint, or by the people of the country, the Barber's Hill, which rises immediately behind the town. The story goes, and, indeed, from this story is dated the name of the place, that a barber of the village, an associate of a desperate gang of ruffians, more than a century ago, in a fit of rage, murdered his wife, and this head of the mountain range was selected as a fitting place for his execution. As I passed this place I thought of old Sauval, the French chronicler, who, with all the vanity of his nation, has described Montfaucon as " the most magnificent gallows in Gaul," and wondered what the Ancient would have said, if he had seen Barber's Hill, with the gibbeted body hanging, as it did, day and night in irons, the first to catch the golden ray of the morning sun, and the last to detain his purple gleam 108 CORWEN. shimmering around the felon chains that held the wast- ing skeleton. The distance between the two places of Llangollen and Corwen is about ten miles. On the left, the undu- lating range of the Berwyn stretches the entire length of the way, and on the right the broad stream of the Dee rolls through rich valleys, ravines of rocks, and woody dingles, with a sound sometimes musical and sweet as the shepherd's pipe " of Arcady," and then again murmuring hoarsely like the distant thunder. The great elements of majesty and beauty are congre- gated within this short distance. The mountains tra- versed each other in all directions, forming glens and hollows rarely trod except by the shepherd. The path of the mountaineer, lightly traced in lateral and oblique lines amongst this region of hills, might be faintly dis- covered, connecting one secluded home with another; and here and there mansions adorned with architectural taste, or little hamlets displaying the fellowship of man with man, rose harmoniously beside the silver Dee. Sychnant, or more properly the woody eminence on which it stood, formerly the patrimonial seat of Owen Glyndwr, is on the right side of the road to Corwen.* * Owen Glyndwr was bred to the bar in Gray's Inn, and in the cele- brated suit which he had with Lord Grey de Ruthin, defended his cause with surpassing eloquence, both in the English judicial courts, and before Parliament. He died September 20th, 1415, set. 61, at the mansion of his son-in-law, Monington House, Herefordshire, in which chapel he lies buried. His sons fled into Ireland, where one of them settled at Dublin, and took the name of Baulf, or Paulf, upon him, which signifies a strong robust fellow, and became ancestor to one Bauff, a worthy citizen of Dublin, who lived in great plenty there. WILLIS'S ST. ASAPH. CORWEN. 109 Scarcely a vestige remains of the ancient building, but the foot of the traveller must needs wander to its highest point, which the hero, after he became the master of Dinas Bran, occupied as a signal-station, and from which his scouts contrived to give him sure infor- mation of the manoeuvres of his enemies. Of this last brave asserter of his country's rights it was said, " that he had a head to contrive, a tongue to persuade, and a heart to execute any mischief." But besides these bold and dextrous qualities, which perhaps belonged, in part, to his education as a lawyer, he was a man of martial attainments, reckless courage, and contrived, as Sir Walter Scott beautifully writes, to invest himself with a sort of " barbaric grandeur/' which, in connection with the national object he had in view, has thrown around his name an interest which will remain as long as the page of history is read. One of his chief bards, Gryffydd Llwyd, has sung of him thus : " Loud Fame has told thy gallant deeds, In every word a Saxon bleeds ; Terror and flight together came Obedient to thy mighty name ; Death in the van, with ample stride, Hew'd thee a passage deep and wide ; Stubborn as steel thy nervous chest A more than mortal's strength possessed." Corwen, or the White Choir, as its name implies, stands cowering under the shelter of an elevated por- tion of the Berwyn, which rises immediately behind it. This place seems, notwithstanding its situation on the great Holyhead road, to have advanced very little be- yond its primitive condition. It has, however, great historic interest, and was in past times the scene of 110 PEN PENGWN. many of the notable exploits of the celebrated Owen Glyndwr. The church is close behind the inn which bears the picture of that hero, and is both a sanctuary on the sabbath, and a school for every other day. The sacred edifice is dedicated to St. Julian, archbishop of St. David, who is described as the " godliest man, and greatest clerk of all Wales/' I lost no time in sum- moning the learned pedagogue to my aid, and soon became possessed of all the lore which the neighbour- hood contained. The church, though an ancient build- ing, has few of the relics of antiquity within its walls. Near it is an endowed building, which bears the pomp- ous title of Corwen College, but is in fact a benevolent institution for the widows of six clergymen in the county of Merioneth, founded by Mr. Eyton, of Plas Warren, Shropshire. In the churchyard is an ancient cross, which, among the country people, has obtained the name of the Sword of Glyndwr, probably from its pointed shape bearing some resemblance to that weapon; and on the southern wall is the deep indented mark of a dagger, which, from the same authority, is said to have been thrown by that choleric chief from his observatory on the crag of Pen Pengwn, in dudgeon at the inhabitants of the village. This legendary spot was too attractive to be neglected. I therefore threaded my way among the cottages that line the lower part of the mountain, and skirting a young plantation that clothes the accessible parts of the rock, arrived, after considerable fatigue, at the stony seat from which this redoubtable feat was performed. On the beetling brow of the cliff, stood a pillar of PEN PENGWN. Ill stones raised upon the rough layers of rocks, bearing the name of Glyndwr's Seat. Independently of the incipient desire which all men feel, in a greater or less degree, to connect themselves in some way or other with that which is in itself extraordinary, the view from the chieftain's prospect-ground is so extensive and re- markable, as to offer an irresistible temptation to the visiter in this place. The silver stream of the Dee wound gracefully to the east, immediately below the terraced road that followed its sinuosities, along which, when I contemplated it, the mail was galloping, and the liveried guard was twanging his horn in announce- ment to " mine host" of the Owen Glyndwr. In front rose the circular wall, crowning the summit of a hill close to the village, on which was the ancient British fort of Caer Drewyn, where once stood its round tower in the centre, now lying in complete ruins, forming anciently one of that strong chain of forts that reached from Dyserth to Canwyd. On the west the mighty head of Snowdon pierced the heaven with a pavilion of clouds enrobing and veiling his awful summit. On the east the range of the Clwydian hills, with the huge bulk of Moel Famau, pinnacled by the Jubilee pillar ; and on the extreme left, dimly seen, the crowning head of Cader Idris and the Merioneth hills shadowing the beautiful valley and lake of Bala. Right and left, reaches of meadow land lay peacefully beside the river's banks, which, seen from the lofty rock, looked like a bright thread carelessly thrown upon a sampler of green; while the circumjacent hills encompassed ver- dant recesses, sleeping silently, except when the crack- ling rifles of the sportsman awoke their voices, reverbe- 112 RHUG. rating from hill to hill in babbling echoes. There is a saying common in Greece, that a man has no author- ized pretensions to the character of a traveller, who has not smoked his pipe on Mount Olympus. I remem- bered it; and to accredit my claim as a wanderer in this land, I lighted my cigar, and sent the circling in- cense from the hero's chair of rocks. The chapel of Rhug is worth a visit, and I paid one thereto. It stands at the distance of about two miles from Corwen, not far from the road-side, in the midst of a small field that bears no traces of having ever been used as a burial-place. It is of very ancient date, with the pulpit and reading-desk on the ground floor, and the structure is more diminutive in form than any other edifice of the kind I had ever met with in Wales. The mutilated carvings and uncouth frescoes seem covered with the mould of time. The colouring had nearly all vanished, and the venerable owl which had taken possession of the cross beams of the unceiled roof, seemed afflicted with sulky uneasiness that a southern should thus have disturbed " his ancient solitary reign/' Dilapidated as this little sanctuary appeared, it is used every sabbath day, and the English service is performed, which the young schoolmaster told me he regularly attended. CHAPTER VII. CERNIOGE CERIG Y DRUID1ON PENTRE VOELAS PASS THROUGH BETTWS-Y-COED AND BY CAPEL CURIG NANT FRANGON. Beautiful is Earth ! The lights and shadows of her myriad hills ; The branching greenness of her myriad woods ; Her sky-affecting rocks ; her zoning sea : Her rushing, gleaming cataracts ; her streams That race below, the winged clouds on high ; Her pleasantness of vale and meadow ! BAHRETT. SIR JOHN PRICE observes in his account of Cambria, that " North Wales is the strongest country within the isle, full of mountains, craggy rocks, great woods, and deep valleys, strait and dangerous places, deep and swift rivers." In this description the worthy baronet has, however, omitted to mention the morass and moor, which form no inconsiderable part of the scenery of both divisions of the Principality. Some of the moors stretch along in almost interminable tracts, with scarcely a tree to offer an obstruction to the winds of heaven that sweep over the melancholy waste, where silence and sterility seem to reign, except when interrupted by the short shrill scream of wild birds, or varied by the waxen beauty of the many-coloured heaths that afford them shelter. There are also those black turbaries, crossed by walls of peat, piled up by the inhabitants for their winter fuel, along the sides of which glimmer the pitchy waters of the dark morass from which they have 114 CERNIOGE. been dug; sometimes, indeed, made more gloomy by heaps of mawn, standing like solemn apparitions on tlie verge of deep pits, which before embowelled them fearful places these, where the unhappy traveller, on a moonless night, might sink in hopeless misery, never to rise again except at the judgment-day. It was upon such a heathy tract as this, of which I have attempted to form the picture, that I entered, after passing the first two or three miles of natural beauty that lingers in the vicinity of Corwen. In this case, however, the monotony of the scene was unexpectedly broken when I reached the romantic bridge of Pont y Glyn. The river rolls its noisy waters through a single arch, resting upon two nearly perpendicular rocks, rising about sixty feet, and which stand at the head of a woody glen, sur- rounded by beetling cliffs, intermingling their gray, unchangeable, weather-beaten features with the trans- itory foliage that blooms and declines with the revolv- ing year. The cataract dashes down its precipitous channel amidst a halo of foam, which wreathes its way among the gaily-coloured branches that kiss the stream in soothing tokens of amity, and, passing througn a deep and richly-wooded ravine, is afterwards seen quietly pursuing its course, and enriching the vale below. On my way to Cernioge, I turned off to visit the remains of a building on the mountain of Pengwerwyn, about a mile from the miserable little village of Cerig y Druidion,* where, tradition says, Caractacus had a * Though there is nothing now remaining at Cerig y Druidion to detain the traveller, the place was once famous for possessing several specimens of the British cistfaen or stone chest. The largest of these CERNIOGE. 115 castle, in which he was betrayed by Queen Cartis- mandua, and sent prisoner to Rome. Here he delivered his well-known oration; and his noble appearance and dignified conduct produced such an effect on Claudius, that he set him at liberty.* Pentre Voelas is a small village on the high road, from whence the traveller may make pleasant excur- sions to the Conway waterfalls, and the interesting dis- trict around Yspytty Evan and Hafod Evan. The for- mer place was once an hospital of St. John of Jerusalem, was composed of seven stones, nearly seven feet high, and a yard in breadth ; four of these were placed perpendicularly, two on each side, and the other three were employed to secure the two ends and the top. They are supposed to have been employed by the Druids as prisons, and this one bore the title of Carchar Cynrig Rwth, a great tyrant, who used to place his hapless victims in the space formed by these stones. There are abundant remains of ancient British superstition to be found in this neighbourhood. CAMDEN'S BRITANNIA. * In the writings of Tacitus will be found a detailed account of Caractacus. On being placed before the tribunal at Rome, he delivered himself in the following manner : " If to the nobility of my birth, and the splendour of exalted station, I had united the virtues of moderation, Rome had beheld me, not in captivity, but a royal visitor and a friend. The alliance of a prince descended from an illustrious line of ancestors, a prince whose sway extended over many nations, would not have been unworthy of your choice. A reverse of fortune is now the lot of Caractacus. The event to you is glorious, and to me humiliating. I had arms, and men, and horses ; I had wealth in abundance ; can you wonder that I was unwilling to lose them ? The ambition of Rome aspires to universal dominion ; and must mankind, by consequence, stretch their necks to the yoke ? I stood at bay for years ; had I acted otherwise, where on your part had been the glory of conquest, and where on mine the honour of a brave resistance ? I am now in your power ; if you are bent on vengeance, execute your purpose ; the bloody scene will soon be over, and the name of Caractacus will sink into oblivion. Preserve my life, and I shall be, to late posterity, a monument of Roman clemency." i 2 116 CERNIOGE. the asylum of the persecuted, of travellers, the needy and the oppressed, under the guardianship of the old knights who held the manor. But soon, like the best- meant institutions, falling from its original uses and good purpose, became, on the extinction of the order, the prolific source of the evils it was intended to remedy. A walk of two or three miles over the same moorland district brought me to the pleasantly situated inn at Cernioge, and having previously heard of the excellence of this house of entertainment, I resolved to rest myself for a day or two. This place had a decidedly English appearance, for in the yard were four large ricks of hay (an extraordinary sight in Wales), extensive and well- built stabling, and the arrivals and departures were so frequent as to keep up the bustling excitement of a high thoroughfare. There is a large pool in the neighbour- hood, called Llyn Cwrt, well-stocked with trout and eels, which afford excellent sport to the angler. The land about Cernioge Mawr is the highest between Lon- don and Holy head; and the moors, abounding with grouse, present extensive but unvaried and barren pro- spects, with only now and then an accidental object to break the dreary scene. The repose I had enjoyed at Cernioge had prepared me to resume my Wanderings, and to fulfil an en- gagement I had made with a gentleman to inspect the slate-quarries of Mr. Pennant in Nant Frangon. I took my way towards the beautiful village ofBettws-y-Coed. It did not fall within my plan to make any stay in this picturesque neighbourhood until I had visited Bangor and Anglesea, I therefore pursued my road by the LLYN OGWEN. 117 course of the fretful Llugwy, which has its spring on Carnedd David, towards my resting-place for the night at Capel Curig. On the following morning, at an early hour, I was at the appointed place of rendezvous the road inspector's cottage by Llyn Ogwen. Situated in the very gorge of the craggy and beetling heights, and now restlessly heaving under the gusty winds of autumn, which came whistling through the mountain hollows, the aspect of this lake, with the sweeping falls of the Benglog, had a strangely wild and sombre appearance, and produced a corresponding feeling in the mind. It was a combi- nation of the picturesque and terrible, not unsuited in its sternest mood to the genius of Salvator. Had the foot of Wilson penetrated these grander recesses of the Caernarvon hills, the noble taste of that enthusiast of nature must have seized some of its striking features. Here darkly rushed the river of the lake ; and there the antique bridge, the wooded abyss, the picturesque coloured rocks, and the Trifaen, with its giant-semblance of the human features ; and through the terrific chasm below, the Ogwen/* pouring in three foaming cataracts down heights of above a hundred feet into the green * The river and the romantic falls on the Ogwen both spring from the same lake, which is wild and picturesque in the extreme. It abounds with eels, and in a peculiar and excellent kind of trout, of a bright yellow while in the water, and a fine salmon-colour when cooked ; and lucky is he who, after a hard day's walk, obtains a dish of them. Nowhere, for a short period of the season, can the angler select better sport ; and the use of a boat may occasionally be procured. The bolder botanist, too, may, with equal advantage and delight, explore the region of the Glyder hills. They abound in rare plants, heaths, and mosses, and among the latter is the Lichen Islandicus, found so useful in pulmonary and other complaints. 118 NANT FRANGON. spreading meadows below. No one can fully imagine all these landscape features strangely, yet harmo- niously, blending into one grand picture each calcu- lated to rivet the eye of the painter clothed in the rich variegated hues of the hour and season in which I then beheld them. In no part of the magnificent Holyhead road was I so much impressed with the savage and romantic cha- racter of the scenery, as on my route towards Bangor, near the tremendous glen of Nan t Frangon the " Hol- low of the Beavers." By descending from the road a little way, the view presented itself full of picturesque grandeur and beauty the lower part of the vale com- bining features of the splendid and the terrific. Huge masses of rock strewed the foreground ; the narrow patch of green meadow overhung by lofty mountains ; the bright river meandering towards the sea ; the waters of the lakes rushing down the steeps, with the distant prospect, and the gloomy horrors of the mountains far around me spite of the genius of improvement, and the triumphs of science on every side left upon the mind an indelible impression of this wild region of the British Alps. Agreeably contrasting with the more savage features of this picture, I observed the elegant cottage orne of Ogwen Bank, surrounded with plantations, near the rudest site of this romantic valley. But, however bleak in external character, commerce, within late years, has in reality transformed these mountain-wastes into sources of industry, private wealth, and public pros- perity. Under the auspices of the Penrhyn family, and their intelligent successor, Mr. Pennant, taking advan- NANT FRANGON. 119 tage of every new discovery, the vast property on which I now set my foot had been nearly doubled in value ; and I found the surrounding population, who were for- merly steeped in penury and ignorance, supplied, not only with the means of livelihood, but of true civil- ization. Proceeding through the entrance-gates, leading to Ogwen Bank, the road is continued over an elegant bridge of one arch, the river presenting a rugged and picturesque scene."* The extensive slate-quarries just beyond, are conducted on an enlarged scale, with ad- mirable facilities afforded by railways and the improved modes of working, and seem to have wrought almost a magic effect along the great high-roads, covering the surface of the soil no less with commodious houses than with labourers' huts with rising towns and hamlets. Nor was I less interested by the ingenuity shown in the construction of the mills, and the different pro- cesses conducted on the nicest principles of mechanical science, particularly in respect to the manufacture of the various kinds of slates in domestic use, and for architectural and educational purposes. No one can behold these works without admiration of the powers of British skill and industry. I was informed that upwards of two hundred tons of slates are daily con- veyed by the railway from the quarries of Cae Braich y Cafn, in Nant Frangon, to Port Penrhyn, near Bangor ; and that nearly two thousand workmen have constant employment. * Persons travelling between Bangor and Capel Curig can order their vehicles to be driven through Mr. Pennant's slate-quarries, which adds only another mile to the distance. 120 NANT FBANGON. These quarries will amply repay the trouble of the visiter who inspects them. The number of inclined planes, pumping-engines, extensive galleries, formed one above another, labourers hanging by ropes in their hazardous employment, or standing on little ledges of rock, with the loud hum of busy life and industry, in every direction, while the startling blasts which occur every four or five minutes, reverberating from hill to hill, carrying their sound like the voice of thunder into the deepest mountain recesses, altogether make up a picture that seems raised by enchantment, especially when contrasted with the grim solitude around. On my way along the mail road, almost a continued descent between the hills of Bangor, I was surprised by the rapid increase of population and domestic dwellings on the line of the mountain-quarries within the last twenty years, and by the marks of improvement and intelligence spreading on every side. One serious drawback alone presented itself, in the endless number of public houses, " thick as autumnal leaves/' strewn over the labouring districts. Every tenth house in some places, Bethesda not excepted, could boast its sign, from " Uthur's Dragon" and "Prince Llewelyn" to " Glyndwr's Head " and the " Meredith Arms," giving a ludicrous and grotesque appearance to the abodes such as could not but excite a smile. In a moral view at least, these miners' cottages, with their gaily-bedaubed lures to intemperance, looked more like " painted sepulchres " than the dwellings of peace and labour. A mission of one or more of our Temperance Societies would find occupation in many parts of North Wales. NANT FRANGON. 121 I had during the day passed through a succession of mountain scenery, the most solitary, wildly beautiful, and magnificent that could be viewed where towering cliffs rose almost perpendicularly to a height that baffled the eye to look upon, which now and then rested on objects as pleasingly contrasted, conveying feelings of relief and repose to the mind. The sun was setting in calm and beauty ; on one side appeared the gray marble towers of Penrhyn Castle, rising boldly above the surrounding wood, and on the other rolled the waters of the Menai, with the Anglesey hills in the distance, while upon my extreme right, the mountains, expanding into a bold curve, placed the base of Pen- maen Mawr in full relief. The characteristics of the sublime and beautiful in natural scenery must necessarily be dependent upon the geographical peculiarities of countries ; but it rarely happens that in any one nation is combined such strik- ing examples of both these pictorial elements as are to be found in Wales ; except, perhaps, those remarkable lands that lie on either side of the Alps, or that distin- guish the course of the Rhine. The boundless levels of shifting sand that belong to Arabia and Northern Africa, over which no measuring-line has passed, where the sun rises and sets scarcely resting upon any object of animated life, except the track of that " ship of the desert," the patient, all-enduring camel, the elevated table-lands of Mexico and the Caraccas, the pampas and savannahs of southern, and the prairies and forests of northern, America, are individualities of these ele- ments ; but they do not interchangeably mingle in the same countrv with the milder and more subdued forms 122 NANT FRAXGON. of nature which at every turn meet the wanderer in the Principality. Wales, too, is a land of history, and it is this circumstance which gives an indescribable charm to every mountain and valley, every defile and river, which no . other country in the same degree possesses. Let the reader imagine this wild and terrific pass of Nant Frangon, filled with hostile troops, debouching out of the thick forest, which formerly extended from its head to the city of Chester, and moving in long lines amidst its savage solitude the pennons of many tribes, gathered from the shores of the Mediterranean and the provinces of Gaul and England, floating in the breeze, echoing through its length to the clarion notes of distant nations, made vocal with the strange sounds of foreign, tongues, and clattering under the tramp of Europe's mailed chivalry. Let him look upon the mountain's top and rocky ledges, which frown over this ancient defile, and descry the priests and bards of this primitive race hoary in years and majestic in stature clad in azure robes, with flowing beards, and hair-locks white as the snow of their own mountains, and holding the symbols of their sacred office brought, like the prophet of Pethor, to " curse this people." Let him look upon the shaggy brows of these old preci- pices into the hill-recesses and stony caves and see them bristling from top to bottom with the infuriated Britons, ready to pounce upon the ruthless invaders of their native land. Let the reader realize this and much more, and he will form a picture, imperfect indeed both in outline and filling up, but which, like a shifting panorama, actually unrolled itself upon the road upon NANT FRANGON. 123 which he may have imagined himself travelling, and continued its exhibition from the times of Henry II. to the conquest of Cambria under his descendant, the first of the Edwards. The words of the Spanish ballad might have been arranged on purpose to form the scene and action of this strange picture : " Trumpets in the distance sound, Flags are waving in the breeze, Horses stamp the echoing ground, Troops are 'midst yon ancient trees, Panting for the fight they come, Breathing fury seeking war. Dost thou ask me who they are ? Would st thou know each warrior's home ? * * * * Let them come, and thou shalt see How we meet them manfully." CHAPTER VIII. PENRHYN CASTLE BANGOR THE MENAI BRIDGE CARNARVON ACROSS THE MENAI TO ANGLESEY, AND BY NEWBOROUGH TO HOLYHEAD. Behold yon fortress rising Aloft in midway air, Tis not a Marcher's biding, But Pennant's mansion fair. All hail, thou Castell Penrhyn ! May abundance crown thy board ! Strike up, ye bards, the telyn ; Give joy to Penrhyn's lord. POPULAR SONG. PENRHYN CASTLE, the seat of Gr. H. Pennant, Esq., is within an easy walk of Bangor. The princely estate of Penrhyn comprehends a large portion of the parish of Llandegai,* which extends above fifteen miles from the straits of the Menai into the Snowdon hills. The pre- sent mansion is supposed to have been erected on the site of a former palace, which belonged to Roderic Molwynog, a prince of Wales, who flourished in the eighth century. It experienced the usual fate of such * The church of Llandegai is built in the Gothic style, having the form of a cross with a tower in the centre, and crowns an eminence above the banks of the Ogwen. It is supposed to have been erected in the reign of Edward III. Besides the monuments to the Lord Keeper and Archbishop Williams, it contains a beautiful tribute to the late Lord and Lady Penrhyn, the work of Westmacott. PENRHYN CASTLE. 125 edifices in that barbarous age, and was razed to the ground in the tenth century, and again rose in splen- dour in the time of Henry the Sixth. Commemorated by bards of old, as well as in modern song, the ancient palace, the castle, and the present structure, are alike associated with interesting events and recollections. "Abode of ancient chiefs, of bards the theme, Here princely Penrhyn soars above the stream ; And, phoenix-like, in rising splendour drest, Shows on its wide domain an eagle crest." The example of the late Lord Penrhyn has not been lost upon its present possessor ; and to the nume- rous alterations and improvements already made, Mr. Pennant has added all that is requisite for the comple- tion of a splendid baronial residence. The whole is constructed on a magnificent scale, in the boldest style of castellated architecture, chiefly from designs by Hopper, ably blending with its ancient Saxon and Nor- man orders all the modern interior accommodations and comforts. The new edifice, built of gray Mona marble, presents an extensive range of buildings, sur- mounted by lofty towers, some of which are circular, while the keep in which are the domestic apartments of the proprietor and another of the principal towers are square, with the addition of angular turrets. Par- tially screened by surrounding woods of the most lux- uriant growth, through the extent of which the Ogwen winds its way to the sea, the effect, as it is approached, is at once picturesque and imposing ; and the elegant and superb character of the internal decorations, chiefly upon a ground- work of the finest marble, corresponds 126 BANGOR. with its outward magnificence.* The whole of the accessories, the lodges and entrances to the park, with its walls and massive gateways, are on the same exten- sive plan, the walls comprising a circuit of not less than seven miles. An elegant chapel, hot and cold baths upon the beach, outbuildings, &c., altogether serve to convey the idea of some royal establishment, rather than the quiet abode of a wealthy commoner of Great Britain. The situation of Penrhyn Castle certainly stands un- rivalled. Occupying the summit of an insulated hill, which on one side sweeps down to the coast, it com- mands views of the bay and town of Beaumaris, Bangor, the greater part of Anglesey, with Priestholme Island, the Great Orme's Head, and Penmaen Mawr. On the other, it gently descends to the base of those gigantic hills that compose the Carnarvonshire range, in the midst of which Snowdon rises with majestic splendour. BANGOR, consisting chiefly of one long winding street, is not so much distinguished for the beauty of its external appearance, as for its numerous local advan- tages and attractions, affording a continual variety of country and sea excursions, f The city is of great anti- * Among the other heirlooms of Penrhyn is to be seen a hirlas, or drinking-horn of the hero Piers Gruffydd, in the shape of an ox's horn, ornamented and suspended by a silver chain curious as a memorial of ancient manners. The initials of the chief's name and family are engraved on it. Piers Gruffydd owned the Penrhyn estate in the reign of Elizabeth, and joined the fleet of Sir Francis Drake, in a vessel which he purchased and equipped at his own cost. He was afterwards in the gallant action with the Spanish Armada. t In addition to the many interesting objects which before engaged the attention of visiters, a number of new roads and pathways have more recently been opened for the greater accommodation of the public. BANGOR CATHEDRAL. 127 quity, a bishopric having been founded in the sixth century. The prospect from the rising ground, about half a mile distant, called Garth Point, where a ferry- boat plies to the Anglesey shore, presents a rich com- bination of every variety of coast and mountain sce- nery ; extensive sea-views, and landscapes picturesquely intermingled with towns and villas ; castle towers and spires far and near, giving an agreeable relief to the general open character and sublimity of the prospect. On the left, the Anglesey coast, with plantations and pretty cottages the church and castle of Beaumaris the beautiful bay covered with vessels Baron Hill, the seat of Sir R. W. Bulkeley ; and far to the north-east, Priestholme Island, and the variegated green sea; to the right, the Great Orme's Head stands prominent, extending its rugged bulwark into the sea at the entrance of the Menai straits, and Penmaen moun- tain ; while to the south-east, tower the hills of Snow- don, altogether offering a coup d'ceil of extraordinary scope and grandeur. The Cathedral of Bangor has often been fully de- scribed. In its architecture it does not correspond As regards commercial business, at the egress of the river Cegid into the Menai, lies Port Penrhyn, now capable of admitting vessels of many tons burthen. The Quay is upwards of three hundred yards long, and an immense tonnage of slates is shipped from it to all parts of the world. The Penrhyn Arms, at Bangor, is a very large establishment, and with the other excellent accommodations for the public, leave nothing to be desired by the most fastidious traveller. What a con- trast to the place as described by Dr. Johnson in his visit to this town in 1774 ! The Penryhn Arms is built on an eligible site, at about a quarter of a mile east of the city. From the windows at the back of the house, and from the lawn and shrubbery, are fine views of the surrounding scenery, including a wide expanse of the sea. 128 BANGOR CATHEDRAL, with the ideas raised by its ecclesiastical rank. The body of the edifice is spacious and plain, and is used for the performance of the ritual in Welsh. The chantry, transept, and chancel are exceedingly beautiful ; and many monuments sacred to affection, and some bearing interesting historical records, ornament the walls of the latter. Its history must be nearly coin- cident with the place to which it belongs. Ban-cor (the high and beautiful choir), now modernized into Bangor, is an etymology which intimates the celebrity its chantry enjoyed in ancient times. Its full rich choir, in undiminished excellence, stills pours the tide of har- mony through its ancient aisles ; and the pilgrim, who like me has found his sabbath rest near this city, will have his mind and heart deeply engaged in the service, should he listen to the exquisite anthem of Purcell, We thank thee, Lord ; or the touching requiem of Dr. Calcott, Blessed are the dead, as it was my privilege to do during the several times that I worshipped in that venerable place. The Welsh morning service con- cludes at eleven, and the English commences in half an hour afterwards. The native congregation is large, re- spectable, and devout. Very soon after its departure, I entered the cathedral, and was struck with the singular spectacle of the beadle, hurrying from seat to seat with a large mop in his hand, which he seemed to exercise with a precision and dexterity which could only be the result of long habit. I inquired the cause, and he told me that the Welsh indulge themselves so much in the practice of spitting in all directions, that it was abso- lutely necessary to take that mode of cleaning the place after every native service. The serious countenance of BANGOR. 129 the worshippers which I had just witnessed in solemn assembly, and the beadle with his mop, offered an admirable illustration of the proverb, that " the sublime and the ridiculous lie very near together/' The see chiefly owed its wealth and immunities to Anian, a bishop who lived in the reign of Edward the First, and who appears to have been a court favourite, for he had the honour of christening the first English prince of Wales, afterwards Edward II. The loss of its temporalities, confiscated during the wars of Henry III., was subsequently more than retrieved "by the enormous grants of land, manors, and ferries lavishly bestowed by the royal conqueror, when he added Wales to the crown of England, but at the expense of the vanquished chiefs and people. In the cathedral several Welsh princes and bishops were interred ; the tomb of Prince Owen Gryffydd still remaining in tolerable preservation. Bangor furnishes a central situation from which the traveller may radiate in all directions, both by land and water, in exploring the beauties of the surrounding country. Within a moderate distance lie Aber, Con- way, Nant Frangon, Ogwen Pool, Capel Curig, Carnar- von, Beaumaris, Amlwch, Plas Newydd,* affording the happiest interchange of scenery ; and in immediate con- nection the port, the castle, and the island ; the yawning slate and stone- quarries pushing their advances into the very bowels of the hills, and the mountain back-ground overtopped by the lofty peak of regal Snowdon. It has always been my humour, when I have exam- ined all the objects, natural, artificial and historical, * Each of these interesting places is described in this work ; by re- ference to the Index at the end of the volume they will readily be found. K 130 THE MENAI BRIDGE. which can engage a stranger's eye, to leave " the pent- up city," and bend my steps towards the open country ; and, if I can find such an one, to throw down my scrip in some hospitable way-side inn like that of Aber, in its garden of roses and tulips ; or that of the George, at the Menai Bridge, standing, as it does, in a grove of flowering chestnuts, within sight and sound of the dashing stream, and nearly at the base of its wonderful bridge.* The western sun was glittering on the towers of Pen- rhyn Castle, when I retraced my steps along its verdant * The George, in imitation of places of greater pretension, has ita record for visitors. Amidst many a verse both grave and gay, and in many a foreign tongue, are the following lines : " Two strangers, in search of health amidst the hills and valleys of this ancient land, were brought by the Zephyr steam-packet to this lovely spot, on the 25th of May, 1839, a day long to be remembered for its serene beauty ; but more especially for the many mercies which a kind and gracious Provi- dence infused into their cup of life. " We saw the glorious orb of day At early dawn, in pomp and power, Light up the city's crowded way, Gleaming o'er every fane afid tower. We saw that bright and glorious sun O'er Mona's wave fling "his broad beam ; And ere his destined course was run, Shed his last ray on Menai's stream. Father, thy guiding hand we see, That hand which dug the channels deep Of all thy waves, thou mighty sea, And bade thy tides their courses keep. That hand which toss'd yon hills on high, And gently spread this living green, Call'd up our thought, and form'd our eye Father, in all thy hand is seen ! " THE MENAI STRAITS. 131 grounds towards Bangor. I followed on through its continuous street, and skirting the walls of the venera- ble cathedral to the right, I soon found myself on the gentle eminence that winds along, amidst banks of wild violets and strawberries, in a parallel direction to the stream, till I reached my resting-place at the George, about two miles from the city. I had spent a day of sunshine, and the last beams of that same sunshine were gleaming upon the broad waters, or, converged by some interposing eminence, appeared like " a glo- rious path of rays," leading, as the poet would finish the description, to " some bright isle of rest ; " how- ever, in reality, the sheen of that path stretched right across to the fertile lands of Mona's Isle. The MENAI STRAITS are about twenty miles long, and the public are accommodated by ferries at different points, the widest of which is that from Beaumaris to Aber. This little village stands on the Carnarvonshire bank, at the terminating edge of Penmaen Mawr, clos- ing up the glen through which the mountain path from Llanrwst opens out upon the great Conway road. It was the first time I had been at the Menai since it became enriched with those peculiar attributes upon which my eye at this moment rested. Before me rose that majestic bridge, the wonder of the world, and the triumph of human art, which has attracted men of all climes to look upon its enchantment. Through its broad arch and open piers, the clear blue stream marked the undulating line of the Carnarvonshire coast, fringed and wooded to the water's edge, fol- lowed in all its evolutions by the gracefully corre- sponding lines of the isle of Anglesey. Passengers on K 2 132 THE MENAI BRIDGE. foot or horseback, with carriages of every description, were perpetually crossing the bridge, and from their elevation appeared very much like the diminutive mimic figures in a mechanical theatre ; and, indeed, bore an amusing resemblance to them in their atti- tudes and paces. The flower-loving bees, after a day of industry and wealth, were flitting through the air, humming their drowsy song, and the blackbird and thrush, with which this region seemed to abound, were trilling their melodious vespers to the majesty of the setting sun, the visible lord of their enjoyments. The steamer that sails daily between the straits and the port of Liverpool lay, as if spell-bound, in the midst of the river ; while here and there, in every direction, little skiffs and sailless boats were gliding silently to their home coasts, stealing like single thoughts, or solitary reflections, to the home of the soul in the calm twilight hour. The first stone of the bridge was laid in 1820; one of the main chains was carried over in 1825, and it was opened in 1826. The distance from centre to centre of the pyramids of masonry which suspend the bridge, is five hundred and eighty feet ; rather more than the width of the straits at low water, but considerably less than the width when the tide is up. It appears con- siderably more than one thousand feet in length. The under side of the roadway is about one hundred feet above high-water mark, so as to admit the passage of the largest vessels which usually navigate the straits. Two saucy Americans, however, of more than ordinary size, were advised in passing to accommodate their towering ensigns to its height, but they refused to bow THE MENAI BRIDGE. 133 their republican royals to anything of English creation, and the stern bridge bore them away before they were allowed to carry their vessels underneath. Last sum- mer some daring swimmer in the neighbourhood jumped from the chains, which are elevated about twenty feet above the bridge, into the centre of the stream, which is at this place seven fathoms deep, and repeated the experiment the same day, head first, with- out injury. In the hurricane of last winter, this bridge suffered severely, and for nearly a week neither the mail, or any passenger, could pass over it. The storm came on in the evening of Sunday, roaring with tre- mendous fury through the chains, which, though at least fourteen feet asunder, rattled and swagged toge- ther with the flexibility of a thread, striking out masses of fire at every vibration. About two o'clock on the following morning it raged with the greatest violence, and near upon that time a large portion of the centre arch burst with a tremendous crash, and if the gale had continued with the same force a few hours longer, the whole of that part must have fallen together into the boiling waters beneath. During this same storm, which did considerable damage in the neighbouring port of Bangor, it is said, that a new schooner lying there broke from her moorings, and without a single sailor on board to guide her, flew before the wind, threading the channel of this dangerous navigation, and arrived safe and undamaged in the port of Liverpool. The view from the bridge northward commands the course of the straits reaching to Beaumaris Bay, and far beyond, till the prospect is lost in the misty dis- tance. Everywhere within the sphere of vision, this 134 THE MENAI BRIDGE. bright stream appeared covered with craft of all size ; some skimming the water with their white sails set, like birds upon the wing, others gliding gently along, impelled by the rowers, whose dripping oars, sparkling in sunshine, seemed like the outstretched fins of some of the tribes of the deep. Looking from the same point in the opposite direction, the eye rests upon a beautiful mansion, with the lawn sweeping nearly to the water's brink on the left. Within the stream is seen the Swelly Rocks, a dangerous place at high water for the mariner ; and farther on, occupying the centre of the straits, the famous fishing island of Ynys Vadog ; still farther are seen the grounds of Plas Newydd, among the plantations on the island border, with the pillar crowning the heights, erected to commemorate Lord Anglesey's participation in the glory of the day of Waterloo. All beyond and around is the sweep of richly variegated groves and plantations, covering the base and climbing the slopes of the bordering hills the bright river the rocky, picturesque foreground villas, spires, and towers here and there enlivening the prospect, with the giant bridge clasping the opposing banks, appearing together more like the work of some great magician than the result of man's skill and industry.* An intelligent tourist,t in his Guide to Snowdonia, * "Beneath the suspension-bridge across the Menai Straits, in Wales, close to one of the main piers, is a remarkably fine echo. The sound of a blow on the pier with a hammer is returned in succession from each of the cross-beams which support the roadway, and from the opposite pier at a distance of five hundred and seventy-six feet ; and, in addition to this, the sound is many times repeated between the water and the roadway." SIR JOHN HEKSCHEL. f Mr. John Smith. THE MENAI BRIDGE. 135 presents the following graphic account of a visit to this monument of the genius of Telford : "Having landed, by means of boats, upon the Anglesey side, we pro- ceeded to the bridge, the visiting of which is a new era in the lives of those who have not before had that pleasure, and is a renewed luxury to those who have seen it again and again. Our party walked over the bridge slowly, because there was something to be admired at every step : the effect of a passing car- riage ; the vibration caused even by a hand applied to the suspending-rods ; the depth to the level of the water ; the fine view of the Straits in both directions ; the lofty pillar erected in honour of Lord Anglesey ; the diminutive appearance of persons on the shore ; the excellence and strength of the workmanship ; the beauty of the arches over the road through the suspen- sion piers, and the echo in them all conspired to delight and to detain us. Many of our party went down the steep bank to the foot of the bridge, from which point, certainly, the best view is to be had of the whole structure, inasmuch as by being in contact, as it were, with its proportions on terra firma, a better idea can be formed of its real, and, indeed, wonderful dimensions. We actually lingered about the spot, careless of time, or of aught but the scene we were contemplating. There is so much magnificence, beauty, and elegance in this grand work of art, that it harmo- nizes and accords perfectly with the natural scenery around, and though itself an object of admiration, still in connection it heightens the effect of the general view." The road to Carnarvon branches off from the bridge 136 CARNARVON. in a southerly direction,, forming, in some parts, the base line to the semicircular figure of the winding stream. The distance is only eight miles, and it is familiarly known as the old road in distinction from the more modern, and less picturesque, route from Bangor. There is a comfortable little resting-place for pedes- trians, called the " Half- Way House," at Port Dinor- wic, from whence a railway runs to the quarries, near Llanberis lake. In journeying onwards I was pre- sented with a combination of striking objects, under the varying lights and shadows of a rich and lovely evening, which made my entrance into Carnarvon, without reference to its ruined and magnificent castle, as new and pleasing as if I had then beheld it for the first time. The gray twilight, half shrouding its mas- sive bulwarks, as I drew nigh, gave an air of vastness and gloom to its wide-spreading walls and heavy towers, which, with the silence of the hour, the far misty bay, and the dimness of surrounding objects, had a pecu- liarly mournful and imposing effect. Caer-yn-Arfon (or the strong walled town opposite to Anglesey), as Carnarvon was anciently called, is sup- posed to have arisen from the proximity of the famed Segontium of the conquering Roman, whose site was not far distant, and whose inhabitants very probably became transferred to the new and rising town. The remains of this station are less than half a mile from Carnarvon, where some fragments of walls may still be seen, on an elevation above the river Seiont. When Giraldus made his tour in 1188, Segontium was a place of considerable note. CARNARVON is built on a peninsula, formed by the CARNARVON. 137 Menai on the west and north sides, and by the Seiont on the south. It was formerly enclosed by walls, de- fended by a chain of round towers, which on three sides are still nearly entire. In former times there were but two gates through which the inhabitants passed, but other openings have been more recently made to form communications with the suburbs, which are rapidly extending. The Town Hall is over one of the ancient gates of the town. A terrace, extending from the quay to the north end of the walls, offers a delightful promenade, and pre- sents a variety of interesting objects around the port, which is daily rising into greater importance by receiv- ing and dispensing the fruits of industry and com- merce. This terrace, Mr. Bransby observes, possesses the powerful recommendation of being always clean, and of soon becoming dry after heavy and continued rain. From this walk to behold the sun on a calm summer evening, as he goes down " in a paradise of clouds " behind the Anglesey hills, is to witness one of the most lovely and glorious spectacles in nature. On an eminence called Twthill, near the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, is a most extensive and varied panoramic view, including part of the Snowdonian range, the isle of Anglesey, with its plains, farms, and villas, backed by the mountains of Holyhead and Parys, the swelling Menai, and the blue and spacious bay, with the sea stretching far beyond. The harbour and the pier have both undergone very great improvement, and ships of considerable bur- then can now come up alongside the quay. An exten- sive trade is carried on with Liverpool, Dublin, Bristol, 138 CARNARVON. Swansea, &c., besides a lucrative coast-trade, exchang- ing the invaluable mineral substances of this part of the Principality for timber and other articles. Slates are brought here as to the general depot from the quarries about Llanberis and Llanllyfni ; and the coun- try people of all ranks resort hither, as the best and cheapest market, from a considerable distance. The Market -House, erected by the corporation, the Uxbridge Arms Hotel, by the marquis of Anglesey, a number of excellent inns, among which stand foremost the Goat Hotel and the Sportsman, with hot and cold baths, and a billiard-room, render the modern town as pleasant and commodious a place of residence as the most fastidious nabob, to say nothing of hardy Welsh- men and pedestrian ramblers, could possibly desire. Carnarvon is resorted to as a bathing-place, and by invalids seeking health and amusement, for a temporary residence. There are here the advantages of a genteel neighbourhood as well as salubrious air ; and the ram- bler in quest of romantic scenery frequently makes this town his head-quarters. Besides many pleasant walks and rides in the immediate vicinity, within the circle of a dozen miles, are the Menai Straits as far as Bangor, Llanberis, Snowdon, Plas Newydd, and Beddgelert, offering not only inducements to those in search of the picturesque, but affording a source of continued grati- fication to the botanist, mineralogist, and antiquary. The parish church of Carnarvon is at Llanbeblig, and stands in its loneliness at the distance of half a mile to the south-east of the castle wall. It is a structure of great antiquity, and contains the altar tomb of Sir William Gruffydd (a member of the Penrhyn family) CARNARVON CASTLE. 139 and Margaret his wife. The knight mailed in armour, and the lady in the full dress of the age, are sculptured in white marble, and lie side by side. English service is performed in a chapel of ease at Carnarvon, close to the castle ; but in this venerable little place the service is conducted in Welsh. The churchyard exhibits the peculiarities which give such a touching interest to some of the burying-places of the Principality. Flowers of all colours, but especially snowdrops, violets, and pale primroses, display their beauty and expend their per- fume on the graves of children, and maidens " that die unmarried," while branches of the box, arbutus, and laurel, with shrubs of a firm and sombre hue, mark the resting-places of the more matured in this " City of the Silent." For its ample and magnificent feudal structure, almost terrible to the eye, Carnarvon is indebted to the first Edward, who raised this colossal castle as if in derision of the poor tenure of all sovereign power near the ruins of the great Roman station. Soon after his conquest, Edward began the stupendous pile, which served less to overawe the Welsh than for a magnificent ruin and a modern wonder. The remains of Segontium furnished part of the materials, bright grey limestone, of exceeding durability, was brought from Twr Celyn, in Anglesey, and grit-stone, for the windows and arches, from Vaenol, between Carnarvon and Bangor. Vast, irregular, and more shattered than its exterior grandeur would lead us to suppose, this giant-fortress stretches far along the west of the town, its broad spreading walls being surmounted, at intervals, with octagonal towers. The extent of the courts, the gate- 140 CARNARVON CASTLE. ways, and the towers, bear equal witness to those noble proportions which astonish the modern architect, as from its Eagle-turrets he commands the whole of its magnificent area, and the wide sweeping circuit of its walls. Opposite the massive Eagle Tower, in which the un- fortunate Edward II. was born, is the Queen's Gate,* which had two portcullisses that communicated with a drawbridge across the moat. Over the embattled para- pet are seen the turrets rising majestically above the solitary ruins, bounded on two sides by the water ; the * So called from the circumstance of Eleanor (daughter of Ferdinand the Third), the consort of Edward, who was brought through the inclemency of a hard winter, to bear a prince for the Welsh, having first entered the castle through this gate. At this time the castle was entirely insulated on one side by artificial means ; the moat was destroyed by being filled up two or three centuries ago, which some- what detracts from our estimate of its former impregnable character. " Edward had annexed Wales to the kingdom of England, but the Welsh were displeased with this usurpation, and determined to yield no obedience to any prince but of their own nation and language. Edward thought of an expedient for cozening them. He ordered Eleanor, in the depth of winter, out of England to Carnarvon Castle, there to lie in. Edward then summoned all the barons and chief persons throughout Wales to meet him at Rhyddlan, to consult about the welfare of their country. He told the Welsh nobility that they had often wished for a prince of their own country, who might rule over them. They promised to allow of such an appointment, and to obey such a personage. Edward then mentioned his own son Edward, recently born, maintaining the terms of the engagement to have been strictly complied with, for his son was born in Wales, could speak no English, and his character irreproachable. Though born in 1284, it was not before he had reached his sixteenth year that Prince Edward received the reluctant fealty of his deluded subjects. The eldest sons of the English monarchs have subsequently been styled Prince of Wales, and, independently of birth, been created so by letters patent." NICHOLSON. CARNARVON CASTLE. 141 third bears traces of a large ditch; on the north-east side is a deep well, nearly filled up, with a round tower contiguous to it, apparently the ancient dungeon. The exterior, and especially the main entrance, has an air of forlorn grandeur, blended with massy strength, which must at all times excite admiration and awe in the be- holder. The area within is irregularly oblong, and was divided into an outer and inner court. The external walls of the castle, enclosing an area of great extent, are nearly as perfect as when they were built, and of considerable height and thickness. The engraving of the entrance to the castle conveys a correct idea of its appearance at the time, collected from the most authentic records by Mr. Cattermole. The state apartments appear to have been spacious, commodious, and handsomely ornamented ; the windows wide, and enriched with elegant tracery. The form is polygonal, though the exterior of the edifice presents a complete square. The floors and staircases are con- siderably injured in many places wholly demolished. A gallery extended round the entire fortress, to serve as a means of communication in times of danger, and during a siege. It lay close to the outer walls, and was provided with narrow slips, adapted for stations, from which to annoy an enemy with arrows or other missiles as occasion might require. But its time-worn and ivy- covered bulwarks are now fast yielding, like the interior, to the assaults of time. Some years ago the Eagle Tower, struck by lightning, was split down several yards from the summit, giving it still more the aspect of a splendid ruin. It was evening, as I before said, when I first caught 142 CARNARVON CASTLE. sight of the castle. The sun's disk had sunk below the horizon, but his refracted rays still played upon that imaginary line " which parts the day and night/' cast- ing an attenuated melancholy grace over the crumbling fortress. I lingered amongst those ruins till the last vestige of light was withdrawn, except such as is be- stowed by a clear blue firmament emblazoned with burning stars. As I gazed, the phantoms of history passed rapidly before my mental eye, with an order and truth like unto the facts treasured in her pages, and with a realizing illusion that converted me into an actual spectator of the scenes. From the topmost point of the Eagle Tower a prophetic voice seemed to issue, dispelling the delusion that in those days clung to the hearts of the stricken Cambrians, that their own loved Arthur would again appear to raise up their fast- falling nation to its former glory. I saw the stern con- queror buckling on his armour, after the Easter festival, resolute to conquer or exterminate the defenders of that ancient land. I heard the wailing of that dark and stormy night of Palm Sunday, when the strong-hold of Hawarden fell before his victorious sword. I tracked the line of march his countless legions took through the deep forest, reaching, in ancient times, from the con- fines of Cheshire to the mountains of Snowdon, leaving Flint and Rhuddlan still frowning in their perilled rear; and I looked upon the picture of that onslaught at the bridge of Moel-y-don, when an English knight was seen buffeting the waves of Menai, and alone escaped to tell the tale of national vengeance. The panorama shifted, and another pictured page discovered that gallant prince, the last of his race who held the sceptre of the Cymry, CARNARVON. 143 slowly retreating before his haughty foe into the moun- tain-holds hard by, dispirited, though not despairing, cursed by the priest whom Edward brought to curse him, deluded by the soothsayer, whose prophecy bore " a double sense," too fatally fulfilled in his own person, deserted by many of his friends, and his affianced wife basely held a captive in the hands of his enemy. The scene then moved ; the undaunted hero still strug- gled with his fate, once the sovereign of the whole land, now only lord of the five baronies of Snowdon, goaded by the insults of his mean conqueror, maddened into open war, betrayed by his base confederate lords, and perishing alone and defenceless in the solitary recesses of a wood. Such was the strange eventful story ; and that castle which marked the triumph of the conqueror, and the subjection of the people which heard the infant cries of the first English prince of this cheated land which opened wide at midnight its gates to troops of warrior knights belonging to an alien country, which rung again and again with the rude revelry of that barbarous age, when the pageant and tournament of Nefyn was ended, and which, in the days of its strength, passed into the hands of foes, and friends, and fratricides, that castle in its gaunt ruins, yet remained as the monument of these records, and the tomb in which past ages silently slept. I had often heard of the sublimity of the scenery on the western coast of the island of Holyhead, and I longed for a ramble among its rugged and weather- beaten rocks. This district has been little noticed in Guide Books, and is out of the regular track of tourists; indeed the island of Anglesey, which has to be traversed 144 LLANBEULAN. in order to reach it, is flat and uninteresting compared with the neighbouring county of Carnarvon. This cir- cumstance has, doubtless, had the effect of deterring many persons from visiting this place, and contemplat- ing the grand marine views around Caer Gybi, and the south-western shores of Anglesey, between Aberffraw and Llanfaelog. After enjoying myself a day or two at Carnarvon, I proceeded across the silvery Menai towards Holyhead. It was morning : the mist and broad shadows were fast receding before the glories of the rising sun ; the moun- tain sheep and cattle were creeping higher up the hills, while all nature smiled around. After reaching an elevated station, I turned and again looked upon the range of the mighty Snowdonian mountains, which, at that moment, appeared even more majestic through the white vapours which rolled around them. Not being able to procure any satisfactory inform- ation about the tracts along the coast that I was desi- rous of exploring, I walked through a bridle-road till I came to a miserable inn, where I was dissuaded, on learning the difficulties of the way, from taking the route by Aberffraw ;* I therefore proceeded to New- borough, and over the Maldraeth Sands to Llanbeulan, near which village I entered the high road to Holy- head. * At Aberffraw the princes of North Wales had a magnificent palace, in which they occasionally resided during several centuries, down to the time of the unfortunate Llewelyn. Speaking of Anglesey, Lloyd says : "In the same was a kynges palace, the seate of North Wales, in Aberffraw : whereof the kinges of Gwyneah have the name of y e kinges of Aberffraw." CHAPTER IX. HOLYHEAD SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE ALMWCH PARIS MOUNTAIN BEAUMARIS. Let us go round, And let the sail be slack, the course be slow, That at our leisure, as we coast along, We may contemplate, and from every scene Receive its influence. ROGERS. FOLLOWING the direction of the veteran Pennant, to obtain the most extensive view of the remarkable town and islet of HOLYHEAD, I bent my way to the summit of the mountain of Caer Gybi, accompanied by the friend I had before accidentally met with in Carnar- vonshire. It was that same Caer Gybi on which anciently stood the Druidical altar of sacrifice, and where afterwards arose an encampment for the con- quering Roman, of which there are still sufficient frag- ments left to point out the figure of its enclosing wall. At every step I observed evidences of the rapid increase of this once poor fishing village, as Holyhead might formerly have been called, now spreading on every side, and supporting an active and flourishing population. From the summit we had a complete view of the promontory, and could mark its varying breadth and inequalities, and its storm-indented figure. It was ap- proaching the hour of high water, and I could distin- 146 HOLYHEAD. guish the lashing of the waves upon the precipices which tower sublimely above the ocean ; and the scream of the sea-birds, sailing around the tremendous caverns open to the waters, might be distinctly heard. Far below me lay the Pier on the island of Ynys Halen, with the Lighthouse at the extremity ; the har- bour with its vessels and smaller craft in different stages of preparation ; and close to the quay, the Post- office packet busily preparing for immediate sail. I was struck with the singular wildness and variety of the prospect far over sea and land ; the vast expanding waters the Skerry rocks the lighthouses, and other objects of interest, opened out on every side perspi- cuously to the view. After having breakfasted at the Royal Hotel, where I had taken up my quarters, I walked to the pier, and was just in time to see a superb steamer dart boldly forward, like some ocean-bird upon its wings, on her trip across the channel. There is something almost startling in looking intently on that strange uncon- scious power which produces the results of living motion, with a beauty, majesty, and rapidity of action, without any approach to violence or hurry : it is at such moments that the light of modern science appears almost too dazzling to the human eye. Having occa- sion to make some inquiries, I addressed myself to an elderly gentleman, who was standing near me, and who replied with such frank good-nature and apparent intel- ligence, that I was induced to make myself known to him. He proved to be the Harbour Master, Captain Evans, who obligingly offered to show us the Light- house on the Pier, and promised every facility in his HOLYHEAD. 147 power for our inspection of the public works, &c. I shall not easily forget his good nature and kindness, still less the true British hospitality and obliging atten- tions which he showed us during our stay. I cannot look back to those days without an emotion of grateful pleasure ; which I feel it the bounden duty of a Wan- derer, so kindly received by one to whom he was pre- viously unknown, to put upon record. My attention was next directed to a capstan of great power, for the use of the government packets and other vessels. The former have never had occasion to em- ploy it ; but many large ships, by the aid of a plentiful supply of warps, have been brought into the pier during heavy gales, evidently snatched from destruction by the prompt assistance thus rendered. On the south side of the harbour I noticed a fine graving-dock ad- mirably constructed, and one of the first in England. There was also a diving-bell vessel at work on the south pier, blasting rock under water ; a most useful inven- tion, by which all the pier wall has been erected in deep water. The anchorage ground outside the harbour, having been so much raked by use that the anchors would not hold, several vessels were in conse- quence lost. In 1831, a very strong chain of three hundred feet in length was laid down across the en- trance ; so that when a vessel now drags her anchor before the gale, she drives forward until she grapples the chain. This plan has been the means of saving a number of vessels, and none have been on shore in the harbour since it was adopted. At the entrance of the pier, which extends one thou- sand feet in length, and was built by Mr. Rennie, is a L 2 148 HOLYHEAD. triumphal arch, raised to commemorate the visit of his late majesty, George IV., in 1821, on his way to Ireland. The king held a levee on board the royal yacht, and proceeded on a visit to the marquis of An- glesey, at Plas Newydd. Being detained on his return by boisterous weather, his majesty left the yacht, and embarked in the steam packet Lightning, commanded by the unfortunate Captain Skinner,* in which he pro- ceeded across the Channel. The monument of that estimable and noble- spirited officer is now to be seen not far from this very triumphal arch ; and I could not pass by it, on entering the Head, without reflecting on the solemn and sudden visitations of Providence, as exemplified in his untimely end. The morning was now calm, the waters smooth and bright ; but I pictured to myself the advantages of the Pier Lighthouse when the storm is up, when the glorious beacon sends forth its refulgent beams through the blackness of the tempest on the dark winter nights. It is built of Moelfre stone, a kind of marble, on an inverted arch, its base being six feet above high water ; and contains twenty lamps and reflectors, exhibiting a strong white light in every direction, elevated fifty or sixty feet above the sea. I noticed a lamp and reflector, placed opposite an aperture twenty feet below the lantern, showing a red light. This is not seen by vessels until they have cleared all the rocks outside, * This gallant officer was washed overboard in an almost unaccount- able manner, while standing on his own vessel speaking to one of the sailors, who was carried away by the same wave with his captain, and both instantly disappeared. I was informed that the weather was not very boisterous, and that the accident was one of the most extraordinary ever known in the annals of naval experience. SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE. 149 when it at once appears, and the vessel alters her course, and runs for the pier head with confidence. In thick weather the packets are guided by signal guns and bells, which are so well arranged, that sometimes the Pier Lighthouse has been the first object seen after crossing the channel from Dublin. For want of a more extensive area of shelter, and deeper water, great destruction of shipping has occurred on the rocks outside by vessels endeavouring to reach the pier. A plan has been proposed to make an outer harbour, sufficiently spacious to admit a man-of-war at all times. This would be a grand improvement ; for the bay presents a fine spacious opening, one half sheltered, with lights on each side of its entrance. It is, moreover, centrally situated in St. George's Channel, in the track of all its trade ; and presents the only station from the Land's End to the Clyde, on the east side of the channel (excepting Milford), to which vessels can approach when the tide has considerably ebbed. Being a fine day, I determined on inspecting the SOUTH STACK, an insulated rock, situated about four miles from Holyhead, on which a conspicuous light- house has been erected, through the zeal and ability of Captain Evans.* Our little pinnace, with its white * The traveller by day, who, in his passage up or down channel, nears the eastern shores, must have observed a white tower, posted, like a sentinel, on the brow of a low hummock, apparently forming a projecting ledge from the seaward base of Caer Gybi, or the mountain of Holyhead. On approaching still nearer, he will perceive that this hummock is, in fact, an island, torn from the main mass, but connected therewith by a link, at a distance resembling the gauze-work of a gossamer, which, in its fall, had accidentally caught upon the corre- sponding projections of the disjointed rocks. Let him look a little longer, and he will now and then detect minute objects passing to and 150 SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE. sail, and manned by four stout seamen, was soon waiting to convey us on our cruise. The atmosphere was clear, and the weather calm, but accompanied by those sudden fresh breezes which are so frequent in our island home. The boat bore off the coast to the distance required, drawing nearer the rocks, or receding at pleasure, to gain as full and varied a view of the scene as possible. In wildness and stern grandeur of aspect, no place, assuredly, can surpass this portion of the Anglesea coast. About midway of the voyage we proceeded with great difficulty ; calm as it appeared, owing to the strong currents, we were soon obliged J;o lower sail, and take to the oars with long and strong pulls. As we advanced, the grand promontory with its towering precipitous cliffs its magnificent caverned rocks, and bleak indented sides, appeared to the utmost advantage. The effect, as we drew nearer and nearer within the verge of these tremendous caverns, was appalling. At least, when we came under the black shadows of the superambient rocks, and approached the dismal chasms, and heard the wild plaintive cry of the sea-birds wheeling above our heads, it was impos- fro, and come to the obvious conclusion, that this aerial pathway is neither more nor less than a connecting ladder of accommodation formed by the hand of man. The speck by night, the white tower by day, with its hummock and fairy bridge, comprise what is called the " South Stack ;" and, taken altogether, it forms a prominent feature in the bold, romantic scenery of this iron-bound coast, and combines so many objects worthy of notice, natural and artificial, that be the observer what he may, poet, philosopher, mechanist, or naturalist, he will find wherewithal to excite his curiosity, and reward his labour, in visiting a spot which has not many rivals in its kind in the wide world. BLACK- WOOD'S MAGAZINE, Feb., 1831 ; " South Stack " (ascribed to Dr. Stanley, Bishop of Norwich). SOUTH STACK LIGHTHOUSE. 151 sible not to feel sensations equally unexpected and solemn. Grand receding arches of different shapes, supported by pillars of rock, formed by the incessant action of the waves, which, in stormy weather, roll with terrific violence against this high and rocky coast, exhibit a strange magnificence a wild and savage beauty, mingled with a dread repose which continues to haunt the imagination even after quitting the scene. Seated among the rocks, or whirling in airy circles above and around us, I saw the various birds which seek these solitary abodes. I could not look upon them without an interest seldom inspired by the tamer species : whether curlews, gulls, razorbills, guillemots, cormorants, or herons, there is something wild and eccentric in their habits and appearance, which produce ideas of solitude and freedom ; for we feel that they are not our slaves, but commoners of nature. On one of the loftiest crags, I observed what I took to be a pere- grine falcon, one of those feudal warriors who has survived his fame, no longer the companion of courts and courtly halls. There are few objects more interesting than the appearance of the South Stack, when approaching it from the water. Its wild site and deserted air, the lighthouse towering seventy feet in height, the neat, comfortable buildings close under its guardian wing, the sounds of life and industry mingled with the lash- ing of the sea, and the cry of innumerable birds, circling above and around, w r ere altogether of so unwonted a character, that had I been suddenly trans- ported to the antipodes I could not have felt more unfeigned surprise; and when, having ascended its 152 SOUTH STACK. steep and rocky stairs, I gazed from the summit of the lighthouse on the wilderness of waters far around, and, descending, entered the quiet pleasant retreat which the master has established here, and saw the neatness and comfort of everything, I began to think I was perhaps only reading too abstractedly some old fairy tale ; but Captain Evans soon convinced me to the contrary by introducing me to an excellent dinner, in which there was nothing dreamy or unsubstantial, though it ap- peared, indeed, conjured from the vasty deep ! During the afternoon I amused myself in scrambling down the South Stack to the water's edge in observing the myriads of gulls standing on the ledges of the rock, or flying about in all directions in examining the suspension bridge and scaling the towering acclivity above, from which the island and lighthouse appear but diminutive objects; while the ever-varying ocean was enlivened by numerous vessels passing up or down the channel. The suspension bridge, which connects the South Stack Rock with the Head, was formed in 1827, at the suggestion and under the superintendence of Cap- tain Evans. It is over a chasm nearly one hundred feet in width, and built on the same principles as the Menai two chain cables passing across, firmly fixed in the rocks on each side. It is five feet wide, and seventy feet above high-water mark. Before its erec- tion, to see the lighthouse, persons were wafted over the abyss in a kind of basket, which was also used for the purpose of conveying the necessaries of life in stormy weather. Leaving the Holyhead mail, upon which I had again BEAUMARIS. 153 commenced my route, at the island side of the Menai Bridge, I approached Beaumaris by the fine road which the public owe to the munificence of the late Lord Bulkeley. There is nothing, perhaps, which em- bellishes a country, or allures visitors, or reciprocates the advantages of one locality with another, so much as convenient roads ; and of all those over which it has been my lot to travel, in my wanderings through this land of marvels, there is none which possesses such bountiful attractions as this. The road describes the line of the stream which flows through the strait, and gracefully occupies the high ground immediately above the beach, stretching from the rock which holds the caverned bolts of the Suspension Bridge, to the beauti- ful bay on which stands the gay and busy watering- place. Let not the reader suppose that it is at all like the bare and dusty thoroughfare that connects one place with another in the midland districts of " merry England ; " but let him trace its windings with me, first amongst the rose-encircled cottages and villas that cluster in companionship near the bridge, the bald rocks and planted picture islands round which the water circulates at flood-tide, with every verdant nook animated by the presence of man, or goat, or grazing kine, and then let him gently glide into the green plantations, and beneath the overhanging trees, that will feed his eye and " calm his feverish brow " to the very close of his journey. But there are other and manifold beauties to engage the wanderer's eye, and detain his foot, on this enchanting track. It was spring, refreshing spring, almost blushing into summer, when I first visited it; the air was ringing with the wild 154 BEAUMARIS. melody of birds, proclaiming in all the " concord of sweet sounds" that their own laughing season was come at last, the banks were decorated with a pro- fusion of primroses, violets, and wild strawberries ; and the stately foxglove, and blue bells of rare size, and rarer hue, held their court in the upper slopes of the woods. Cadnant, a modern seat, rears itself amongst a rich plantation of pine and larch to the left, towering high above the little creek that runs inland at this spot ; while on the right, Glan Menai, Craig y Don (or the wave's rock, as it means), and Glyn y Garth, enriched with the thick blossoms and yellow pendants of the \vhite lilac and laburnum, look out upon the sparkling waters, comprehending within their view the point bearing the latter name, Bangor, Penrhyn Castle, and stretching onwards to the Great Orme's Head, with the smiling lawns and majestic hills of the Carnarvon- shire coast. This beautiful drive is, in many parts, cut out of the solid rock, and throughout is skirted by a stone parapet wall, along and over which the glossy- green ivy and other verdant parasites have trailed their wiry branches. A stone bridge, clasping a mill-stream that runs its bustling current into the broad bay, leads the traveller into the ancient town of BEAUMARIS. I entered its precincts expecting, at every step, to meet with those gabled and grotesque buildings which characterized the taste of our ancestors, and those ample porches which gratified their social dispositions, in which the elders of the land delighted to meet at eventide ; but no such thing, the domestic dwelling of the villain and the BEAUMAK1S. 155 landowner, of the vassal and his lord, that used to cower in the olden time round its fortress for protec- tion, had all, or nearly all, disappeared ; but in their places, the verandaed villa, the inviting lodging-house, and the gay and long-extended terrace, spread them- selves out before my sight. Beaumaris (or the Beau Marais of former days) has been converted into a fashionable bathing-place, where idlers in search of pleasure, and multitudes in quest of health, resort to invent and find perpetual amusement, or to recruit exhausted strength and spirits. When I was contem- plating the motley group that sauntered away the morning on what is called " the Green," a projecting shore of fine filtrating gravel, covered with short grass, which forms one of the horns of the bay, and has be- come, from its healthy and attractive situation, the mall of the place, I turned to the waiter of one of the hotels that was standing hard by, with my usual in- quiry to such a sagacious and discriminating personage, on like occasions : " Why, Sir," he said, " this is the place where the Reg'lars, as we call them, and the Short-allowance Gentlemen turn out, the one to walk themselves into an appetite for the forthcoming meal, while the latter stand looking upon objects which they have seen for a thousand times before, that they may deceive themselves into forgetfulness of such a thing, and make one meal answer for two." " Well, but, my good friend," I replied, " I do not comprehend your distinctions : what do you mean by the terms you apply to those gentlemen, both active and passive ? " "Why, Sir," he rejoined, " I suppose you have not 156 BEAUMARIS. been in Blue Morris * before, or you would have under- stood me. You must know, then, that the party before you taking so many Berkeley strides, as if, like the Colonel, they were walking for a wager, are the Reg'lars, who pay by the week for all the meals the day will afford, and they are preparing themselves for the bell that will ring them at two o'clock to the dinner table." " The Short-allowance Gentlemen, on the contrary, are those who pay for each separate meal which they take. These you will always find, at this hour, ear- nestly contemplating Puffin's Island, as if they had dis- covered some new beauties in the place, and had no leisure left for eating, on purpose that they may make the morning breakfast hold out till supper time. The Short-allowance Gentlemen, therefore, live at half the expense of the Reg'lars. I soon discovered that my friend, the waiter, was a sort of wag in his way, and I laughed heartily at the distinctions he had made. I thanked him for the very valuable information he had afforded, which would go far to make me a philosopher, or at least to look very much like one, if I had no money in my pocket ; or what was quite as important, would teach me to turn my purse to the best account, when I could afford to become a Reg'lar, according to his notion of the term. Beaumaris is the capital of Anglesey, and with the parishes of Llandegvan and Llanvaes, to which it belongs, presents a bold and rocky front on the northern bank of the Menai, extending in a semicircular form for nearly three miles. Though the peculiar domestic architecture * This is the common pronunciation of Beaumaris throughout the neighbourhood. BEAUMARIS. 157 of its early history has disappeared, there yet remains its magnificent castle in ruins, and such ruins as cannot fail to carry back the mind of the traveller to the age in which it arose in its pride and power, marking the tyranny and vassalage, with the condition and manners, of the thirteenth century. The outer ballium with its ten Moorish towers, which completely encase the for- tress, exhibits its Arabian style of architecture; and viewed from that flat luxuriant meadow on which it stands, with the beautiful modern structure of Baron- hill close in sight, it produces an extraordinary effect, not only from its hoary antiquity, but from its foreign aspect. I ascended up the narrow stone staircase, and through the winding passages that perforate its massy walls, to the top of the ruins, and obtained that superb view for which it is famed, overlooking the broad chan- nel, and sweeping with an unparalleled coup d'teil all those extraordinary natural objects with which this and the opposite coast abound. The walls have been re- duced to nearly the same level, though still at a con- siderable height, and are all covered with luxuriant grass, with here and there a bastard tree springing out of the joints and fissures of the grey building. The figures of the banqueting-hall, state-rooms, and domestic apartments, may be distinctly traced, and the oblong square of the entire fortress, with its ample area extend- ing nearly two hundred feet. The solitary footfall of the curious traveller is heard alone threading those fearful passages, along which the hurrying steps of mailed warriors and armed combatants resounded, and the only cry which that footfall awakens is that of the tribes of innumerable crows, which have established 158 BEAUMARIS. here their "ancient solitary reign." The obliging cicerone who is installed as the portress of the ruins, has turned their ample space to good account. Her sleek black cow, of Alderney breed, ranges over the verdant square, and grazes in single blessedness within the mural curtain, while her lepine brood frolic and feed on the grassy summits of the walls. In August, 1832, the celebrated Eisteddfod was held in the area of this castle, and the old ruins rang with that minstrelsy which the lordly owner had proscribed, and called forth too by the descendants of those bards whom, in the day of his rule, he had hunted to the death. The church is a structure less ancient than the castle ; but its early title of " the Chauntry of our Lady of Beaumaris," conveys the idea to the mind of its belong- ing to a period far distant from our own. It crowns an eminence in the centre of the place, and its chancel possesses a beautiful white alabaster monument, con- taining two recumbent figures on an altar tomb, repre- senting Sir Richard Bulkeley in knightly armour, and his lady in a robe richly ornamented round the neck. In the vestry lie the remains of the Lady Beatrix, daughter of Lord Herbert of Cherbury, that pink of chivalry, but without any memorial; and in their solemn, and for the most part undistinguished graves in the churchyard, are interred the bodies of the unfortunate beings who perished in the wreck of the Rothsay Castle. Beaumaris contains a Town Hall, built in the six- teenth century, and a Free School, which was erected and endowed in 1603, with a few old family dwellings. It possesses, also, some excellent hotels, but the most BEAUMARIS. 159 extensive establishment of this kind is the Bulkeley Arms. In the large dining-room belonging to this house, are the portraits of the members of the Anglesea Hunt, amongst which is that of the gallant Captain Skinner, whose name is recorded in the preceding pages of these wanderings. It was market-day when I was at Beaumaris, and multitudes of peasants from the surrounding neighbour- hood had thronged to this capital of the island, either to sell or buy the. commodities of every-day life. I was threading one of the back streets of the town, on my way to the shore, and found it necessary to make an inquiry from one of these pretty bourgeoise that I met with, when my surprise and risibility were both excited as she answered, without the least hesitation, and with that mingled archness and naivete which sit so bewitchingly on the intelligent countenance of a woman, " I can't speak English, Sir." I will be bound to say, that if I had put the same question, as I frequently had occasion to do, to one of my own sex, he would have answered seriously or sulkily, "Dim Saes'neg," and so I must have unravelled the clue myself, but without that pleasant feeling which followed this specimen of my fair respondent's ready wit. The neighbourhood of Beaumaris is abundant in objects of deep interest, which may well engage the attention of its summer visitors. Amongst these are the scanty remains of the ancient friary of Llanvaes. A fragment of its walls, which are enclosed within a barn, is all that is left of the monastery erected by Llewelyn ab lorwerth in the thirteenth century, as the resting-place of his wife, the Princess Joan, "whose 160 BEAUMAR1S. pleasure it was/' as the Welsh historian expresses it, " to be buried here." The stone coffin which once contained her remains, after the dissolution of the abbey, performed the office of a watering-trough in the neighbourhood, not much unlike that to which the coffin of the crooked-backed tyrant was applied at Leicester ; but it is now installed with due reverence in a sylvan recess near to the mansion of Baron Hill. Llangoed is a beautiful modern residence, and lies at an easy distance from the abbey. From the eminence near to it, there is an extensive view of the vale which bears the name of the place, and the capacious bay, which, from the peculiarity of the situation, appears separated from the channel, and at high water gives no mean representation of the spacious lake of Geneva. Reaching forward, the summit of the Marian and Din Sylwy are attained, a strong post, formed of a double circle of stones, and which has the reputation of being Prince Arthur's Round Table. On the north side, from the top of Nant y Dihenydd, a tremendous precipice, the Tarpeian Rock of the Britons, the eye ranges over the expanse of the ocean, and commands a scene which exceeds in sublimity any other that the island can afford. Tre'r Castell, where dwelt the renowned Sir Tudor ab Goronwy,* of whose family * " Edward I., hearing that Sir Tudor had assumed the honour of knighthood without his permission, called him to an account for so extraordinary a procedure ; Sir Tudor replied, that by the laws of the Round Table he had a right to do so, having the three requisites : first, be was a gentleman ; secondly, he had an ample fortune ; and thirdly, as to his prowess, he was ready to fight any man, be he whom he would, that was hardy enough to dispute it. The king admiring the dignity of his manner, confirmed to Sir Tudor the honour he had so justly assumed and so well deserved." PRIESTHOLME, OR PUFFIN ISLAND. 161 the haughty Elizabeth, Queen of England, was a descendant, Lleiniog, a small quadrangular fort, con- nected by a redoubt with the sea-shore by the earls of Chester and Shrewsbury,* when they conquered the island in the eleventh century, and the quiet glen of Penmon, in which rest the ruins of its ancient Priory, a place of great sanctity, whose favourite chief, Idwal, has been described by the poets of the times as " the sunshine of the country," are all rich in their peculiar scenic beauty, and their moral and historical associ- ation s.f PRIESTHOLME, or PUFFIN ISLAND, will afford a day of sport to the disciple of Colonel Hawker, or of infor- mation to the industrious antiquary, or amusement to * " The two earls, invited by a traitor, invaded and ravaged North Wales, more like savages than soldiers ; for the atrocities committed by them at this place were truly shocking. In the mean time, Magnus, king of Norway, directed by Providence to this island, whilst attempt- ing to land, was opposed by the earls ; the earl of Shrewsbury was, however, shot in the eye, as he stood cap-a-pie on the shore, by an expert bowman ; Magnus, at the same time, tauntingly crying out : ' Leit loup ' (let him dance), when the earl was in the agonies of death. Hugh Lupus, on the death of his colleague, quitted the isle, built a castle at Bangor, ravaged the promontory of Lleyn, so that it was deso- late for seven years; returned to Chester, and then died." CARADOC. f " About a century and a half ago, some beneficent person is said to have thrown about a hundred oysters into the Menai, where they increased wonderfully, as they also do in different places, by the storm driving their seeds in various directions. These fine Penm&n oysters are pickled at Beaumaris, and put in small neat casks, constructed for the purpose, which are sent to distant parts of the kingdom. A great variety of fish are taken by the trawl on the north' east side of Anglesey, and in the wear on the shore between Beaumaris and Penmon ; in short, the whole shore is a mine of fish. Within the memory of persons now living, it was customary for the ministers of parishes near the sea-shore, to attend and read prayers while the nets M 162 PRIESTHOLME, OR PUFFIN ISLAND. a pic-nic party, and indeed, to all the migratory tribes that may be sojourning at Beaumaris. It is nearly a mile from the shore, to the edge of which it slopes in verdant turf on each side from its lofty central emi- nence. The island is in shape like a lemon, extending a mile in length, and half a mile in breadth. Near the centre are the ruins of an old square tower, sup- posed to have been a portion of a religious house once subordinate to the Priory of Pemnon, which, from the " odour of sanctity " thrown around it by popular tradition, attracted many devotees, and penitents, and dying persons, to its sacred shrine, either as the subjects of pilgrimage or prayer, or to obtain interment within its holy walls. Of the brotherhood of this establish- ment, old Giraldus relates a remarkable story * The superior reputation which this monastery enjoyed, induced the Welsh princes, Llewelyn and David, and after the conquest of the country, Edward 1., to grant to it the revenues of Penmon. Prince Owen Gwynedd was the founder of this religious house, and lies buried were laid out, and to receive, at the drawing up, a part of the produce. The late apostolic Dr. Wilson, Bishop of Man, composed a formulary for this purpose : and close to Llandrillo is an oratory (like an inverted bee- hive), in which the clergyman read the formula. It is not unusual for the fishermen on leaving the shore to lay down their nets for a few minutes, and in that interval to repeat the Lord's prayer." * " There is a small island almost adjoining Anglesea, which is inhabited by hermits, living by manual labour, and serving God. It is remarkable, that when, by the influence of human passion, any discord arises among them, all their provisions are devoured and infected by a species of small mice, with which the island abounds ; but when the discord ceases, they are no longer molested. This island is called, in Welsh, Ynis Lenach (or Priest's Island), because many bodies of saints are deposited there, and no woman is suffered to enter it." PARIS MOUNTAIN. 163 here ; and its sanctuary became the refuge at once of the oppressor and the oppressed, in that lawless age, to which it belonged. Little remains to attest the pre- sence of the crowds of devout men that thronged it ; or of the noble, the wealthy, and the poor, that once were interred in its consecrated cemetery. A colony of rabbits has usurped their territory, and swarms of cor- morants, stormy petrels, curlews, and puffin auks, and even, though comparatively but rarely seen, peregrine falcons, hasten to these shores in the summer months to breed, and nurture their young. The visiter, on sur- veying this desolate spot, with his mind embued with the recollections of its ancient state, will be ready to say: ' ' How many hearts have here grown cold, That sleep these mouldering tombs among ? How many beads have here been told ? How many matins here been sung ? On this rude stone, by time long broke, Methinks I see some pilgrim kneel ; Methinks I see the censer smoke, And faintly hear the solemn peal. But here no more soft music floats No holy anthems chanted now ; All's hush'd, except the seafowl's notes, Hoarse murmuring from yon craggy brow." The far-famed copper-mines at PARIS MOUNTAIN may be visited from Beaumaris ; they are on the northern part of the island, near the town of Amlwch. Although they are of great extent, and formerly produced im- mense annual revenues to the proprietors, yet it is mentioned that at present the receipts scarcely more than cover the disbursements. Mr. Pennant thinks these mines were worked by the Romans, from the M 2 164 AMLWCH. circumstance of his having discovered some ancient operations; but it was not until the year 1768 that the great mineral riches of the mountain became known, when upwards of one thousand persons had constant employment.* The ore was mixed with and embedded in slate, descending in depth from twenty to fifty fathoms. The Mona and Paris mines yielded, for a great number of years, about three thousand tons of copper annually; but during the last ten years the average quantity has not exceeded seven hundred tons. AMLWCH is a large and dirty town,t consisting chiefly of miners, or persons connected with mining operations, situate at the foot of Paris Mountain, and close to the harbour, which, having been formed out of a natural cleft in the rock, has a very singular appearance. The place now presents a pauperized and decreasing popu- lation; the source of its former prosperity being removed, by the recent ill success attendant on working * This discovery took place in rather a curious manner. The mines had been farmed by Messrs. Eoe and Co., of Macclesfield ; but so dissatisfied was this firm with the result of their engagement, that directions were given to the agent to withdraw the men, and to abandon the losing concern. This person, however, was convinced by various signs, of the riches which the earth contained, and before he obeyed these directions, he was determined to make one great effort for dis- covery. He divided his men into parties of five, and sent them into different parts in the immediate neighbourhood to bore the land, and on the 2nd of March, 1 768, after perforating the earth for about seven feet, one of the parties came upon tbat famous vein of solid ore, which, for many succeeding years, constituted the riches of the Paris Moun- tains. The miners of this place have ever since kept the 2nd of March as a day of festival. t Mr. Bingley thus describes the locality : "Amlwch is a black and dismal place, owing to the scoria of which the roads are formed. On the exterior of the town the country is a scene of barrenness and desolation. The sulphureous fumes from the mines have entirely destroyed the vegetation for a considerable space around." THE ISLAND OF ANGLESEY. 165 the mines, while many of its inhabitants, deprived of their old employment, are but ill adapted either for farming or fishing pursuits. The island of Anglesey abounds in numerous and varied relics of antiquity ; for the records of its history stretch far beyond its conquest by the Romans; and include the memorials belonging to British, Saxon, and English possession. It was the ultima Thule of the Romans, and, when they subjugated it, the last refuge of persecuted and expiring Druidism. To this island- hold the imperial foe pursued a superstition that, in its power over the passions and affections of the people, presented perpetual obstacles to their conquering arms. The first invasion was led on by Suetonius, who crossed the Straits at the passage of Moel y Don, upon a bridge of boats. This island was at that time crowned and girt with dark groves of the sacred oak, their trunks perpetually green with the embracing arms of the mysterious mistletoe. The sacrificing fires were prepared near their enormous cromlechs, in expectation of their invaders. The priests, arrayed in their flowing vestments, were invoking vengeance on the approaching foe. The women, with dishevelled hair and frantic gestures, ran to and fro, tossing on high the blazing brands they had snatched from the altars, and the whole scene was one of strange, unnatural, superstitious horror. The stern Roman paused in consternation at the border of this terrible picture, and then pushed forward his legions and cohorts, which the feeble and bewildered bands of the Druids were not able to with- stand, and in the bloody victory which ensued, they threw the bearded priests into the very fires which they had lighted up. The victors and the vanquished have 166 THE ISLAND OF ANGLESEY. both disappeared for ever; but the cromlechs, those altars of sacrifice, still remain; and the carnedds, or barrows, those huge sepultures of the dead, are fre- quently and fitly seen side by side with them. Now and then, indeed, some indefatigable antiquary has opened upon their dark caverns the visions of daylight, and dispersed their hidden treasures of dry bones. This is an ancient land, and in this latter feature of its antiquities, cannot fail to bring the mind of the reader into connection with those classical regions of the earth's early history, where the same memorials greet the eye of the traveller as he passes along the Helles- pont, or traverses the plains of Greece. There are still remaining nearly thirty cromlechs in different parts of the island, one of the largest of which is at Plas Newydd, the seat of the marquis of Anglesey. Its upper stone is about twelve feet and a half long, twelve broad, and four in thickness. Near this crom- lech is an extensive carnedd which was opened by Sir Nicholas Bailey a century since, and disclosed to view a large quantity of human remains. The crumbling fortress, and the ruined abbey, are the monuments of a later date, and mark the changes that have taken place from the Heptarchy to the Tudors, from Egbert to Henry the Eighth. " The presence of perpetual change Is ever on the earth ; To-day is only as the soil That gives to-morrow birth. Where stood the tower, there grows the weed ; Where stood the weed, the tower : No present hour its likeness leaves To any future hour." CHAPTER X. ABER PENMAEN MAWR CONWAY LLANRWST, ETC. " Where'er we gaze, around, above, below, What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found ! Rock, river, forest, mountain, all abound, And bluest skies that harmonize the whole ! Beneath, the distant torrent's rushing sound Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll, Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul." I LEFT Beaumaris in the sunshine of an early sum- mer's morning, and proceeded towards the ferry which was to transfer me from the island to Carnarvonshire. The place of embarkation, which lies near the town, is a point of land anciently denominated Penrhyn Safnes, but afterwards " Osmund's Air/' from a malefactor there executed, and who, on his way to the fatal spot, jocosely observed he was only going to take the air. Among the passengers in the ferry-boat was a drover, proceeding on business to Aber. This man was, in his way, a great traveller : he had been at Liverpool, Bir- mingham, and Manchester ; and first and last had had great dealings with the Saxons over the border ; yet his Saes'neg was not over abundant. In fact, he spoke a jargon in comparison with which the Doric of the Highlands might be regarded as clear and intelligible. Though a pig-drover, he was a great patriot ; that is, he thought everything Welsh superior to whatever of ]68 THE LEVAN SANDS. similar kind could be found in any other country. In his opinion, there was no good ale on the wrong side of the Dee. The very pigs, he averred, were in Eng- land more scraggy and long-legged than in Cymru; and looking with an arch grin at Penmaen Mawr, which towered magnificently above the bleak, rocky shore, "There!" said he, pointing with his finger at the huge mountain, " has she any hills like that in her country ?" No one can have visited a land abounding, like Wales, with magnificent scenery, without wishing for a vocabulary varied and rich as the landscape. Before me, stretching from right to left, far as the eye could rea.ch, rose a chain of peaks, connected at their bases by a curtain of rocks and lower ranges, and presenting an aspect truly Alpine ; but language supplies no ex- pressions that could paint the effect of the whole assem- blage upon the mind. As Mont Blanc among the Savoyard glaciers, so towers Snowdon above the sur- rounding heights, luminous, yet variegated in hue, clothed with aerial tints, and often almost transparent as a cloud. Having accomplished the traject of the narrow frith, we walked across the Levan Sands to Aber, a distance of nearly four miles. Our pig-drover, who was per- fectly acquainted with the localities, here acted as our guide ; and his knowledge was of real value to us ; for since the sands shift continually, they are not to be traversed without considerable danger. When the thick fogs of autumn or winter lie upon the ground, the great bell of the village, presented for the purpose, as he informed us, by Lord Bulkeley, is constantly rung, ABER. 169 as a signal to direct the footsteps of persons landing from Beaumaris. It appears that, many years ago, the site of the pre- sent Levan Sands formed a well-cultivated and inha- bited tract of land, and that the sudden advance of the ocean swept away the people and cattle of the district in one overwhelming flood.* Tradition is here assisted by the remaining works of industry and art. At low ebbs, Pugh, in " Cambria Depicta," says, ruined houses are yet to be seen, and a causeway, pointing from Puffin Island to Penmaen Mawr, which is easily visible. The boatman placed me right over it, and, keeping the boat's head to the tide, enabled me to examine it well ; but though apparently near, the man said it could not be less than two fathoms deep. ABER is a small rural hamlet, situated at the entrance of a deep glen, which, running directly inland into the heart of the mountains, is bounded on one side by the stupendous hill, called Maes y Gaer, whose gray surface is partly bare, and partly hidden by trees. Down the steep declivity of the mountain that closes the extremity of the glen, at the distance of about a mile from the village, a cataract of vast height precipitates itself, which has not without reason been compared to the Staubbach in the valley of Lauterbrunnen. In the mouth of the defile, near the village, stands a great * These sands received at first the appellation of Wylefaen, or the place of weeping, from the shrieks and lamentations of the inhabitants when it was suddenly overflowed by the sea, in the days of Helis ab Glanog. Such an event was calculated to make a deep impression upon the mind in that superstitious age, and accordingly we find that eight of the sons of Helis became the patron saints of the neighbouring parishes. 170 PENMAEN MAWR. artificial mound, the site in other days of one of Llew- elyn's palaces. Many years ago some antiquarian, by excavating for the purpose, discovered several of its massy substructions. Old Leland, that indefatigable itinerant, has mentioned this fact ; and in his record of it makes known the forest-like character which the country at that time exhibited. "In a wood," says that pilgrim, " in the parish of Aber, Lly welyn ab Jor- werth had a house on a hill, part of which now standeth." The forest has fallen under the axe of the woodman, and the mound now exposes its bare breast almost close to the road-side. In after-days, during the last struggle of this noble country for its freedom, it is said that Owen Glendower, whom Shakspeare describes as " A worthy gentleman, Exceeding well read, and profited In strange concealments ; Valiant as a lion, and wondrous affable, And bountiful as mines of India," used to pour the full tide of his native eloquence upon the ears of his assembled countrymen from this hill, and fired their hearts to deeds of martial daring in the cause of their nation's liberty. At this place was the ancient seat of Rhys ab Sir William Thomas, a descend- ant of Athelstan Gludrudd, founder of one of the five royal tribes of Wales, which is still in a great degree entire, having a specula or watch-tower attached to it, so necessary in those troublous times. On quitting Aber, I pursued the road following the sweep of the coast towards PENMAEN MAWR, whose rocky, precipitous base, running out in a bluff pro- PENMAEN MAWR. 171 montory, projects into the waves. In the course of the afternoon, while pausing on an eminence to contemplate the features of the landscape, I beheld at a distance a vast rainbow, stretching its purple-tinged radius from shore to shore. It was a glorious spectacle. The con- trast of the many-coloured bow with the dark waters, the sparkling clearness of the sky above, the brightness of the sunshine resting on the surrounding hills, and the various features of the nearer scenery, formed alto- gether so magnificent a scene, that even the traveller in the grander regions of the Valais or Savoy can seldom witness anything more sublime. It was towards nightfall when I approached that part of my journey where the road, hewn out of the solid rock, was like a terrace midway along the face of the mountain, many hundred feet above the sea, which breaks in thunder below. The evening was mild and beautiful. Clouds, slightly charged with lightning, hung over sea and land ; and from time to time bright flashes, unaccompanied by thunder, kindled the firma- ment, showing momentarily the form of the clouds, and gleaming over the face of the ocean. Occasionally the eye caught, by this transient light, glimpses of the black, beetling rocks overhanging the road, communi- cating to them a gloomy grandeur of character which I should in vain endeavour to describe. Formerly, before the road had been widened, and defended by a parapet, this passage of Penmaen Mawr was full of danger.* But, though terrific, it is now perfectly safe ; * Pennant observes that "a vein of crumbling stratum in one part 172 PENMAEN MAWR. unless we contemplate the possibility of the rain or frost detaching, as it sometimes does, vast rocky frag- ments of the superincumbent mountain, and hurling them headlong upon the helpless traveller. Ideas of such catastrophes naturally enough present themselves, in such situations, to the mind; it was therefore not without pleasure that I found myself beyond the possi- bility of danger. Correctly speaking, this great mountain promontory has two divisions, one of which is called Penmaen Mawr, the other Penmaeu Bach, the latter lying the nearest to Conway ; but the whole is generally known to the tourist by the former name. Less than a century ago, a narrow zigzag path, along the side of the rock, was the only convenience for travellers. At that time there was an inn at each end of the pass, and the witty Dean Swift is said to have composed the following so contracted the road as to excite new horrors. But the breach," he adds, "is now effectually repaired by a series of arches, a work the just admiration of travellers." Here, during the latter part of the seventeenth and the beginning of the eighteenth centuries, numerous accidents happened ; some of which, in his pleasant way, he relates : " I have often heard," says he, " of an accident, attended with such romantic circumstances that I would not venture to mention it, had I not the strongest traditional authority to this day, in the mouth of every one in the parish of Llanvair Vachan, in which this promontory , stands. Above a century ago, Sion Humphries, of this parish, paid his addresses to Ann Thomas, of Creyddin, on the other side of Conway river. They had made an appointment to meet at the town of Conway. He, in his way, fell over Penmaen Mawr ; she was overset in the ferry- boat, and was the only person saved out of more than fourscore. They were married, and lived very long together in the parish of Llanfair. She was buried 1744, aged 116. He survived her five years, and was buried 1749, close by her in the parish churchyard, where their graves are familiarly shown to this day." PENMAEN MAWR. 173 couplets, which greeted the admiring traveller on the sign-posts as he entered and debouched from it : " Before you venture here to pass, Take a good refreshing glass." " Now you're over, take another, Your drooping spirits to recover." It was from the many accidents which occurred that the Legislature was induced, in 1772, to assist in carry- ing out the plan projected by Mr. John Sylvester, and in forming the present grand terrace, which has more recently been further enlarged and improved under the direction of Mr. Telford. It is well guarded on the sea side, and many of the overhanging fragments of rock have been blasted. This mountain road is daily losing some of its terrific features. A company formed in Liverpool, for convert- ing its granite walls into materials for macadamizing roads, now occupies a considerable portion of the rock ; and thousands of tons are broken into suitable sizes for that purpose, and exported during the year; so that Penmaen Mawr, which has stood in its solitude through countless generations of ages, seems destined to be literally trodden under-foot in our crowded streets and tramping thoroughfares. While I was tracing this sublime pass, I beheld the work of demolition in busy progress upon the sides of the mountain. Men, in every direction, were blasting and breaking the masses and fragments of this giant rock ; and by an ingenious contrivance, the machinery which regulated the descent of the loaded waggons along the iron rails fixed upon its almost perpendicular sides, was made, by a coincident 174 PENMAEN MAWR. action, to draw up the empty carnages, contriving a perpetual ascent and descent between the magazines of broken stones and the quays of embarkation. It seems natural, in contemplating the present state of this national road, to fall back in imagination upon the period when the traveller had to brace up his courage to enter upon its almost desperate track ; and while looking upon the sluggish craft lying at ease close to the shelving shore, waiting their concrete cargo, to call to mind how often the storm-tossed vessel was driven upon this iron-bound coast, to meet with almost certain destruction. Penmaen Mawr contained on its summit a strong- hold, called Braich y Dinas, the Arm of the City, built by the ancient Britons, of extraordinary strength, and of such extent that twenty thousand men might have sheltered within its walls. Some remains of this for- tress are still to be seen, and the well which supplied the British and Welsh garrisons with water remains in the innermost inclosure, as full as ever. During the sanguinary war, in which the Principality was reduced to a tributary tenure upon England, the inhabitants of the surrounding country, with their cattle and property, found refuge in its inclosure. Here, also, the retreating army of Llewelyn lay intrenched till the treaty was signed between that prince and Edward; and so well did the troops take advantage of the resources which the mountain afforded, that their assailants were used to say, "the Welshmen rained rocks upon them." It was the gathering twilight hour when I first entered the gates of CONWAY, and the features of the surrounding country had nearly become invisible. I CONWAY. 175 hastened along its principal street ; and, attracted by the clean and comfortable appearance of the place, which seemed to predicate good cheer and a smiling welcome, I threw down my scrip in the commodious parlour of the " Castle Hotel," and soon found that I had no reason to regret my selection. Were I to visit some noble mansion, in the height of its prosperity, be it castle or hall, I would choose to do so in the broad light of noon, with as much sunshine flaring upon it as could be well gathered into a summer's day ; but give me the still hour of evening, or " the pale moonlight," in which to contemplate the ruins whose history is linked with the past, whether that past be interwoven with national or domestic records. Such is the colour of my mind ; and I accordingly pursued my way through the southern gate of the city, and traversed a sufficient space of the road to give me a full view of the castle-tower and its crenellated walls. It is not merely the curious sight-seeing propensity, that faculty so rife in all travellers, that is to be gratified in the examination of Conway Castle. There is the rich and comprehensive faculty of mental reflection to be brought into exercise upon such an interesting object ; there is the philosophy of history traced in deep lines upon its mouldering ruins. This castle was reared at the distant era of the Crusades, and in what the present historian denominates the feudal age. Its peculiar Moorish architecture attests that its type belongs to eastern lands, and we know that its erection followed close upon the return of its founder, who had led the hosts of England from their homes to essay the re- covery of the Holy Sepulchre from the hand of the 176 CONWAY CASTLE. Saracen, in that strange war of mingled superstition and religious enthusiasm. Its history speeds over a series of events, and a space of time, that comprehends the most important facts which belong to European society, and includes those changes in the condition of the human family which reach from a state of abject slavery and social barbarism to that of personal free- dom and national refinement. The transition-state had been long and cruel ; but to look upon these mysterious ruins at this hour, in a suitable frame of mind, was to read the page of history at a glance. In nature, all things continued as from the beginning ; but a momen- tous change had passed over this work of man's device. High over head shone the polar star, in its pristine brilliancy. The planet Mars was completing, in radiant beauty, his transit, as when, at the creation, he rolled upon his sphere, amidst the song of the morning stars ; the mighty ocean was setting in with his murmuring tide, just the same as when, at first, he received that law which his dark waters have never since ceased to obey. All these features of nature remained perfect and unaltered ; but the hands that had wrought the strong masonry of that fabric, the chivalric array that had passed and repassed those massy gates, " clad in burning arms," the warlike bands that had thronged those broad battlements in the day of conflict, the noisy burghers that had raised tumults in the city when their civil rights were restricted, or their purses mulcted by feudal despotism or regal extravagance, had all " passed away, to be no more seen." It was in this train of thought that I returned to my sojourn at the. "Hotel," to give to the dreams of the night the CONWAY CASTLE. 177 subjects which had formed^ the events and occupied the ruminations of the day. In the morning I ascended the rock on which stands the castle. A little wooden bridge supplies the place of the ancient portcullis, and ushers the stranger into the ruins. From this spot a clear view of the trian- gular or harp-like form of the town is obtained, with all the buildings, public and domestic, gathered within its inclosing walls. The site of Conway occupies a steep declivity, descending to the margin of the river, here nearly half a .mile in breadth, and is in itself extremely fine ; while its majestic castle presents, from a distance, an aspect of singular grandeur. Formerly, a curtain, terminating in a round tower, ran out from either end of the town walls into the river, to impede the approach of an enemy by water ; but of these, one tower only now remains, the other, with both towers, has long since yielded to time. From the quay is seen a noble view up and down the river, and over the con- trajacent country, broken up into swelling hills, and beautified with woods and villas. The castle, built in 1284, under the eye of Ed ward I., by the architect, it is supposed, whom he employed in the erection of Carnarvon, is very justly regarded as one of the most beautiful fortresses in a country distin- guished for the splendour and magnificence of its mili- tary structures. Though more extensive and better preserved, it somewhat resembles the castle of Falaise, in Normandy. Its base, however, is less wooded, and there is no brawling streamlet leaping, as there, from rock to rock, at its foot ; but instead, a broad, majestic N 178 CON WAY CASTLE. river, and a creek full at high water, sweep round two of its sides. The other two face the town. Within the walls are two spacious courts; and the external line of the fortifications contains eight lofty towers, each with a slender turret, singularly graceful and ele- gant in form, springing from its summit. The great hall on the right measures 130 feet long and thirty broad, and is lighted by six lancet-shaped windows, opening out upon the creek, and three pointed windows, of exquisite tracery, looking towards the ample court. Eight Gothic arches, four of which remain entire, supported the roof of this magnificent apartment. A lofty Norman arched window at each end, and two broad carved fire-places, completed the architectural decorations and appearances of the hall. This spacious hall was the scene of the Christmas revel- ries to which Edward and his queen invited the English nobility and their high-spirited dames, while the mo- narch was forging the chain that was for ever to enslave the prostrate Principality. The walls, on all sides, are covered with a green drapery of luxuriant ivy, and a meadow of grass lies in the open area of the courts. The warder's duty is supplied by a whole tribe of crows, whose solemn parley is heard the instant a stranger's foot approaches the domain they have usurped ; and the ivied walls are nearly alive with blackbirds, and birds of all colour, whose notes resound for the live-long day throughout these otherwise deserted ruins. Two en- trances, both contrived for security, led into the for- tress ; one by winding narrow stairs, up a steep rock, from the Conway, and terminating in a small advanced work before one of the castle gates, covered by two CON WAY CASTLE. 179 round towers, the other towards the town, protected by similar works, with the addition of a drawbridge over a broad moat. Notwithstanding its grandeur and importance, this castle makes no great figure in history. Soon after its erection, the royal founder was besieged in it by the Welsh, and the garrison nearly reduced to an uncon- ditional surrender by famine. Finally, however, they were extricated from their perilous situation by the arrival of a fleet with reinforcements and provisions. In 1399, Richard II., then in Ireland, commanded the troops, raised in his behalf against the haughty Boling- broke, to assemble at Conway and their numbers were considerable ; but the vacillation and feebleness of purpose of that monarch induced many of them to abandon him on his arrival; yet the remainder was still sufficient to have made head against the usurper, had not the king, who feared to fight his own battles, basely abandoned his followers, and rushed blindly into the snare laid for him by his enemies. During the Civil Wars, Conway Castle was at first held by Arch- bishop Williams for the king ; but the warlike church- man, being superseded by the fiery Rupert in the com- mand of North Wales, went over in dudgeon to the republican party, and personally assisted the gallant General Mytton in the reduction* of the castle. While the republic flourished, this noble fortress was suffered to retain all its ancient grandeur undiminished ; but on the Restoration, a grant having been made of it, by the Stuart, to the earl of Conway, its new possessor ordered his agent to remove the timber, iron, lead, and other valuable materials, and send them to Ireland, osten- N 2 180 CONWAY SUSPENSION-BRIDGE. sibly for his master's service, though it is generally sup- posed they were intended for his own use. A suitable fate attended this desecration of one of the finest struc- tures of antiquity the vessels which conveyed the materials being wrecked, and the whole of the property entirely lost. This ancient castle is the fictitious scene of the drama of the Castle Spectre, and of The Bard of Gray. In the year 1811 there still lived, at Conway, one of the minstrel tribe,* scarcely less gifted than the proud- est of that race, whose magic powers, when they were heard by one of England's fairest and most talented daughters, called forth a strain not unworthy of his rare merits : " Thine is the charm suspending care, The heavenly swell, the dying close, The cadence melting into air, That lulls each passion to repose ; While transport, lost in silence near, Breathes all her language in a tear. The Suspension Bridge, by Mr. Telford, is con- structed on the same principle as that of the Menai, though on a smaller scale, and presents an appearance singularly elegant, lying at the foot of the antique * Mr. Edwards, the harper of Conway, as he was generally called, had been blind from his birth, and was endowed with that extraordinary musical genius by which persons suffering under such a visitation are not unfrequently indemnified. From the respectability of his circum- stances, he was not called upon to exercise his talents with any view to remuneration. He played to delight himself and others ; and the innocent complacency with which he enjoyed the ecstasies called forth by his skill, and the degree of appreciation with which he regarded himself, as in a manner consecrated, by being made the depository of a direct gift from heaven, were,. as far as possible, removed from any of the common modifications of vanity and self-conceit. LIFE OF MBS. HEMANS. CONWAY. 181 castle, and surrounded by scenery of the most pictu- resque description. It is three hundred and twenty feet in length between the supporting towers, and eighteen feet above high-water mark. The chains on the west- ern side pass upwards of fifty feet under the castle, and are fastened in the granite foundations on which it is built. On the farther side they are bolted into an insular rock, which rises in the bed of the river, and forms the strait through which the gushing waters pass on their way to the sea.* The piers of the bridge, and the toll-house at the western extremity, are built in strict keeping with the architecture of the castle. An embankment, formed of hard clay, faced with solid masonry of stone, and stretching from the insular rock to the western shore of the county of Denbigh, a length of six hundred and seventy-one yards, with a breadth of thirty feet, and an extreme elevation of fifty -four feet, exhibits one of the finest and firmest chaussees in the world. From a rising ground, a little beyond this embankment, the accom- panying beautiful view is taken; and it combines, perhaps, the most happy illustration of the architectural harmony and local scenery which this interesting place affords. The Church, though ancient, contains scarcely any- thing worthy of notice, except the following inscrip- tion, engraved on a stone in the nave of the building, which, though found in Pennant and other tourists, is so curious as to deserve repetition : " Here lyeth the * A few years before the bridge was built, owing to a heavy swell, the boat conveying the Chester and Irish mail, with eight passengers, the coachman, guard, and a youth about the age of fifteen, in all fifteen in number, including the boatmen, was upset, and only two persons saved. 182 GREAT ORME'S HEAD. body of Nicholas Hookes, of Conway, gentleman (who was the forty-first child of his father, William Hookes, Esq., by Alice, his wife), the father of twenty-seven children, who died the 27th day of March, 1637." In the market-place is an old building called Plas Mawr, which was erected more than two centuries ago. It is deserving the notice of the antiquarian. The town is surrounded by a very thick wall, strengthened by twenty-four towers, most of which remain in tolerable preservation. The pearl-fishery of the Conway was celebrated even in the time of the Romans ; and, according to the elder Pliny, Julius Csesar, returning from his marauding expedition into Britain, from whence, as Tacitus ob- serves, he was beaten out, dedicated, in one of the temples of Rome, a breastplate, set with British pearls, probably from this fishery; and in comparatively modern times, one of these pearls, presented to the Queen of Charles II. by Sir R. Wynne, was honoured with a place in the regal crown, where probably it yet shines in testimony of the loyalty of the Welchman and the riches of Wales. It is stated, but I know not how truly, that a considerable trade is still carried on in the pearls found in the bed of the Conway and on the ad- jacent coast. These pearls are supposed to be equal in size and colour to any found in Great Britain. Some years ago, Sir Robert Vaughan appeared at court with a button and loop in his hat crusted with Cambrian pearls. Having a desire to see the splendid marine views which I had been informed are presented from the Great Orme's Head, a lofty promontory,* which pro- * " About seven or eight years since, the brig Ifoi-nby, bound from Liverpool to South America, with a cargo valued at upwards of GREAT ORME'S HEAD. 183 jects into the sea, and forms the eastern entrance to Beaumaris Bay, I wandered thither one fine morning, passing near the ruins of the ancient Castle of Diganwy, a fortress that may be traced to the Norman Conquest, and which is closely connected with the various con- flicts in which this country has been engaged. By turning to the right a little out of my way, I passed the beautiful estate of Gloddaeth, on which is a man- sion erected by Sir Roger Mostyn, in the reign of Elizabeth. This house is famed for its library of ancient Welch manuscripts, and is well worth a visit from the beauty of its grounds. Proceeding onwards over slippery downs and rocks, I reached Llandudno Church, which serves the purpose of a beacon ; and thence scaled the highest point of the Great Orme's 60,000, was driven from her course by a heavy gale ; and, about mid- night, was dashed against the rugged front of the Great Orme's Head, and instantly sunk. One of the crew happened at this terrible moment to be out upon the bowsprit, and he was flung by the concussion upon a narrow shelf of the rock, where he lay for some time stunned and confounded ; but at length, exerting that mechanical energy which Providence beneficently supplies for self-preservation, even in the total absence of consciousness, and which sometimes achieves more than deliberation would dare to attempt, he succeeded in getting to the top of that frightful precipice, and crawled to a smithy at a little distance", where he was found at five o'clock in the morning by some workmen employed there, in connection with a neighbouring copper-mine. He told his melancholy story, but was laughed at by his incredulous auditory ; for he could only say that he had climbed up the horrid steep which had wrecked the vessel ; how, he knew not, and the thing appeared impossible to those acquainted with the place. At daylight, however (for it was winter), portions of a wreck were discovered near the spot, and the truth of the man's story was shortly after made apparent. No other individual of the Hoi-nby's crew, or thing belonging to her, was saved." 184 RIVER CONWAY. Head, where the prospect is said to be very extensive in clear weather ; but I was disappointed in my expecta- tions, as a light mist hung over the sea. This great rock is inhabited by myriads of sea-birds, who are secured from molestation in the steep and inaccessible crags. On returning to Conway by the Little Orme's Head I entered Denbighshire, and traversed a small but lovely vale, richly wooded, and embosomed in swelling hills. A small stream which unites, at some distance below, with the Conway, meanders fantastically through the hollow, tempting the angler from his road ; and its course, sometimes visible, sometimes concealed by golden copses, conducts the eye up the vale until it is lost among the hills. On quitting Conway, the weather, as it had been during the greater part of my journey from Holyhead, was extremely beautiful; and the varied tints which had already settled on the landscape rendered every feature of the country doubly interesting. On my left the Denbighshire hills, covered with heath and gorse in flower, threw their broad shadows over the stream and valley; while the towering mountains of Carnarvon- shire, appearing in the distance towards the right, pre- sented a resemblance to the Alps as beheld from the fertile plains of the Milanese. The Conway, after its confluence with the Llugwy, near the village of Bettws y Coed, flows in a full volume through the valley to which it gives its name, forming a reach of unequalled beauty to the town of Llanrwst. From this place it again stretches onward with increased velocity, and an ampler channel, up to the walls of Conway, which may be said to lie at the FROM CON WAY TO LLANRWST. 185 head of the vale. I was now ascending its course by the high-road, and from the rising ground at a com- paratively short distance from the fortress, I paused to contemplate the brilliant scene which in every direc- tion opened out to my view. The eminences which rise immediately on the eastern bank of the river had lost much of their savage mountainous character, and had become exchanged for the gentler beauties of pas- ture-land and corn-fields, mapped into lines of all shapes, varied with all the colours of red fallow and springing crops, and sloping in sweeps and undulations down to the river's brink. Behind me the subjects were quite different : swelling hills, stupendous moun- tains, and glimmering peaks rose and reared them- selves, with all the gradations of the beautiful and sublime, till their elevations were lost in the clouds, and their figures vanished in the distance. Amidst these congregrated rocks the eye recognises the heavy features of Bwlch Dyvan, and the enormous front of Carnedd Llewelyn, holding supremacy even amongst these granite Titans, and reigning as the lords of these stern solitudes. About five miles from Conway a quiet road branches off on the left to the churchyard of Caerhyn, or Caer Rhun, celebrated for containing three of the most magnificent yews that are now to be found in the Principality, trees that are the growth of centuries, and majestic as cedars of Lebanon. Near it is the pleasant little village, surrounded by wood, and open to the water : this is supposed to have been the Conovium of the Romans, and in Camden's time was called Caer Hen, the Old City. Many remains have been dug from the superincumbent earth by the indefatigable 186 FROM CONWAY TO LLANRWSTl antiquarian, which prove it to have been a station belonging to that warlike people ; and a villa of con- siderable extent has been discovered, including a suda- tory, or ancient bath. On such a spot as this the creating power of the imagination might readily cause " the men that have been " to re-appear. " Romans for travel girt, for business gown'd : While some recline on couches, myrtle-crown'd, In festal glee." It is scarcely possible, even in North Wales, to select a road more full of interesting subjects than is that from Conway to Llanrwst. Before the traveller reaches the sixth milestone he crosses Tal y Bont, a little stone bridge which conducts the stream from Llindillyn Pool, hurrying, and babbling all the while, to join the river. About two miles farther is the Fall of Porth Llwyd, or, as it is called by the country people, Rhaiadr Mawr, - the Great Fall. The path, which ascends the mountain side, turns off immediately to the right of the road, and winds up in a zigzag direc- tion to an almost breathless distance. The mid-day sun was blazing over all the landscape when I followed the ruddy maiden that I had prevailed upon to be my conducteur on this occasion. The path was the most difficult I had yet encountered, at one time skirting the edge of the dizzy precipice, at others threading the tracks which the mountain flocks had made, who seemed as much at home upon these hirsute rocks as their bearded predecessors. I was fairly out of breath by the time I had reached the head of the fall, and my hardy guide, albeit a mountaineer from her cradle, was FROM CON WAY TO LLANRWST. 187 obliged not unfrequently to pause to recover strength under the vertical sun that was darting his rays right over-head. Having pointed to a ledge of the rock that she said commanded the best view of the fall, she retired to a distance, and left me to the contemplation of this gigantic and marvellous subject. The mountain pool of Llyn Egian supplies the water of the river, which rolls murmuring along the table-land of this Alpine region till it reaches the rocky forehead of the cavern, down which it rushes with headlong fury.* A bolt of the rocky headland interrupts the falling torrent, which descends in a divided stream of unequal breadth, like a rent sheet of thick foam, glittering in the sun- shine, and casting its white spray amongst the trees that overhang the gulf, as if they had become the enchanted spectators of this magnificent scene. Sheltered in some degree by the surrounding shade, and cooled by the humid atmosphere which the turbu- lent waters created, I lingered for some time watching their descent as they chafed, and roared, and pre- cipitated themselves from rock to chasm, lingering impatiently for a while in the hollow basins which time and their eternal wear had formed, and then again dashing forward with increased impetuosity, till their distant murmur was heard like a second note to the deep base thunder of their first mighty plunge. The whole course of the descent, with its windings and turnings, cannot be much less than a mile, and a com- * At the time I was on the spot the weather had been unusually dry for many days, and the stream of the waters exhibited this divarica- tion ; but I have no doubt when the rain has swelled the mountain river, that it dashes down in one unbroken cataract. 188 FROM CON WAY TO LLANRWST. position of more savage grandeur and wild beauty I have never before looked upon. When the stream approaches towards the bottom, a portion of the waters is diverted aside, and carried, by means of an artificial channel, over a large wheel, which possesses sufficient power to turn at once a flour and a paper-mill. To this useful purpose I found, in many similar instances, the natives have wisely converted this powerful element, when it has thus acquired the irresistible force and impulse of its mountain descent. About a mile further the traveller comes upon the more picturesque and less impetuous Falls of Dol- garreg, supplied by the waters of the Llyn Cowlyd. The beauty of this scene may be viewed even from the road which he is travelling ; but it is best inspected by treading a short winding path immediately before the bridge under which the waters hasten with lover-like expedition to the embrace of the river. Looking upwards from one of the rocky masses which lie in the bed of the stream, the eye gathers in all which belongs to man, and solitude, and the wild untamed beauties of nature. Here, as at Forth Llwyd, two mills, belonging severally to a fuller and a paper-maker, contribute their elements of interest to the variety of the picture, and the clacking wheels and busy operatives give both voice and animation to the scene. At a little distance the narrow stream of a mineral spring trickles down the declivity on the same side, and marks its course among the rocks and green shrubs by its deep orange-coloured hue, impregnating every drop of water it meets with a powerful chalybeate, which might be converted into the most sanatory purposes. FROM CONWAY TO LLANRWST. 189 A smith's forge, with its red fires and sounding bellows, appropriately completes this attractive vignette. Who knows but that some new Cheltenham may spring up in this place, and people these rocks with gay inhabi- tants, drinking health from its fountain, and bracing their nerves with its mountain air ? In truth, the landscape contains so much of what is sublime and beautiful, of wild and luxuriant, that it might in time rival the celebrated Moslem Springs of Izeperghe, and its " miraculous bath," so eloquently described by a fair authoress of our own day. I was a little wearied with the length of the way, and one of the jaunting cars, everywhere to be found in the Principality, at this time coming up, I jumped in, and soon made acquaintance with the driver, a respectable man, the owner of the vehicle. I spoke warmly in praise of the scenery around, which is always acceptable to a native, and especially extolled the beauty of the river, which was here widening its channel, dis- playing something of the majesty of its sweep, as it approaches its estuary into the sea. " Why, sir," said my new friend, " I am told that this Conway you are talking about is the finest river in the world." " It is a goodly river, indeed," I replied, " but surely not the finest that is to be found. There is even in our own island the magnificent Severn, and the still more noble Thames ; there is also the Humber, that traverses so many counties, and includes a navigation of nearly five hundred miles. But these are mere rivulets com- pared with what are to be found in the New World. There is the great St. Lawrence, which runs an uninter- 190 TREFRIW. rupted course of seven hundred miles; and the Missouri, into which twenty streams as large as the Conway empty themselves ; and the Mississippi, that superb river, which, after flowing two thousand miles, pushes its full fresh stream three leagues from the shore before it mingles with the salt waters of the Atlantic." The driver seemed astonished for awhile at the dis- coveries I had so unexpectedly made to him, beyond his own little world, in which he had lived, and moved, and had his being ; but recovering himself, and nothing daunted, he took up the discourse again, and went on, " Ah, sir, it is all very well what you say ; but I was born on the Conway, I have lived beside the Conway, man and boy, for these forty years, and I don't believe there is another such a river for length and width, in the known world." The little village of TREFRIW, or Trevor, as it is pro- nounced by the country people, to which the flow of the tide reaches, does not deserve the character for neat- ness or picturesque beauty which is given to it by most tourists, except, indeed, as to the churchyard, and the handsome stone bridge that carries the road towards Llanrwst, with the busy mill and old-fashioned water- wheel hard by. The church is of very early date, and is said by the old manuscripts to have been originally built by Llewelyn the Great, "for the ease of his princess, who was before obliged to foot it to Llan Bychwyn, a long walk among the mountains." Ancient yew-trees are here to be found in their glory, which seem from their gnarled and venerable appearance to be co- existent with the old church. About fifty years ago, one of these patriarchs was blown down during a TREFRIW. 191 violent tempest, and there was found ensconced beneath its roots, and in a perfect state, the skull of some giant of a former age, which the wondering rustics pro- nounced equal in capacity to a small bee-hive. Some other remains also, of corresponding size, were dug out of the same place, such as are said to be found by our antiquarians of the West, underneath those mysterious barrows that may so frequently be seen on the shores of the Ohio and the Mississippi.* This fact was related to me by an old crone of the village, and I recorded the wonderful story upon a table made out of the trunk of the fallen tree, which had acquired from its size and antiquity the title of the " Father of yews." I reached Trefriw when the sun was beginning to suffuse the western sky with those hues of purple and gold which usually mark his farewell track at the close of a cloudless summer's day; but neither the weary way I had travelled, nor the warning signs of evening's approach, prevented me from entering upon the moun- tain road that leads toLlynGeirionydd, or Lake Taliesin, as it is more generally called. This distinguished moun- tain lake is at the distance of about four miles from * A very extraordinary discovery has recently been made in the state of Texas, which will go far to relieve the perplexities of the American literati on the subject of those earthy mounds and fortifications which have been traced from the state of New York to the Gulf of Mexico. " The Texas Star informs us that ' a million of mummies have been found near Durango, in Mexico.' They are similar to the Egyptian mummies ; and a poniard of flint, a sculptured handle, necklaces oi ivory and beads, mocassins, &c., were also found at the same place. These, with the discoveries made in mounds, formed like pyramids, in several parts of North America, point to the conclusion that the New World had been peopled from Egypt, or from those parts of Asia over which Egyptian manners extend." SPECTATOR, p. 845, 1839. 192 LLYN GEIRIONYDD. Trefriw, on the table-land of this Alpine region, where its waters slept for ages in their stern solitude, save, indeed, when the echoes were awakened by the sweet harp of this " Chief of the Bards," or when the associate minstrels of this land of song came to present to him their national address, and the impassioned poet, in true oriental style, replied "I am Taliesin, on the shores of the lake of Geirionydd." A column has been reared by Lord Willoughby d'Eresby at the west end of the lake in honour of the sage, and at this time a handsome villa, and cottages, and smiling fields, may be seen round about it. The lake is of con- siderable extent, and affords some excellent fishing. This place is the frequent resort of pic-nic parties in the summer season, who raise their marquees on its margin, and enliven their visit with sports, and pastimes, and music, making the rocks re-echo far and near, " In sounds by distance made more sweet." Besides angling with the rod, the sportsman adopts a curious expedient for taking his game upon the lakes, which it may not be amiss to describe. He prepares a plank about a yard long and a foot wide, to which he affixes a slack yielding cord from end to end; to this he attaches a short line with a bunch of threads hooked and baited with flies of all colours and shapes, from the May -fly to the yellow cadow; and the apparatus thus finished he skims into the middle of the pool, altering its position at pleasure, or drawing it to land, by a string, when he has obtained a freight sufficient to satisfy his desires. The more adventurous fisherman takes his coracle and boldly pushes into the middle of LLANRWST. 193 the lake, where, by angling or netting, as may best suit his humour, he generally contrives, with skill and a moderate degree of patience, to fill his basket with the delicious trout with which these waters so plentifully abound. I. have just said that I entered upon the mountain path; for I had scarcely emerged from the forest of trees through which the precipitous road winds trees of stout timber and tall stems, pine, and elm, and oak, the growth of generations when the grey twilight told me that it was high time to retrace my steps, if I wished to reach Llanrwst before the night set in. I could not, however, help pausing upon the altitude I had attained to view the dim landscape. A clearing in the forest enabled me to look down upon the vale that stretched before me in dreamy stillness, and to trace the course of the beautiful Conway, which still gleamed like a white silken thread along its sedgy bottom, amongst the fat meadows that lie on either side. I quickened my steps, however, for these rocky precipices and dun woods are not the places that a traveller would choose to be entangled in at nightfall ; and as the bell from the ivied tower of the church mingled its heavy note with the murmurs of the river that runs close by its wall, I entered the town of LLANRWST, and took up my abode at the " Red Brick House," or, as the old chro- niclers would have called it, the " red scarlette" house, ycleped the Three Eagles. The Three Eagles at Llanrwst is truly a red, a very red brick house, and any tourist that may follow me will be sure to know it by this colour, without taking the trouble to look up at the black tripartite figure 194 LLANRWST. emblazoned on its front, which has received, I know not how, this royal name. However, I can testify that it possesses all the appliances which become a house of entertainment, where a stranger seeks to find his tem- porary home ; that its larder is as well supplied, and its inmates as courteous as a wayfaring man like myself can possibly require. The town of Llanrwst is on the Denbighshire side of the river, and from its central situation in a busy and thriving district, distant from any other mart, has become the little metropolis of the neighbourhood. It was formerly famous for its cattle-fairs and peculiar manufacture of Welsh harps ; but the branches of in- dustry chiefly cultivated at present are the spinning of woollen yarn, and knitting of stockings. Wales has often been spoken of for its national sobriety, and I was therefore startled to observe so many advertisements of temperance-houses and coffee-rooms in this place. They were, however, concentrated in the market-place, or in the thoroughfares debouching from it, and I concluded the temptation to take "a little too much," as it is modestly called, was confined to these weekly seasons of excitement. There is nothing within the town par- ticularly worthy of noticce, except the church, which contains some interesting old monuments and tombs. Like many other religious structures of the darker ages of Christianity, its erection is connected with a tale of blood. The ground it stands on, according to tradition, was given by Rhun ap Nefydd Hardd, in expiation of the murder of Idwal, son of Owen Gwynedd, cut off by Nefydd, his foster-father, to whose care he had been intrusted. In the interior of the church is some curi- LLANRWST. 195 ous carving, said to have been brought from the neigh- bouring abbey ; and the Gwydir Chapel, erected in 1633, by Sir Richard Wynne, from the designs of Inigo Jones, contains several engraved brasses, bearing portraits of different members belonging to this family, and which may be considered as choice specimens of the art of chasing in the seventeenth century. A slab of white marble, on the eastern wall, records the pedi- gree of the founder. On the floor, in the centre of the chapel, lies the stone coffin of Llewelyn ab lorwerth, ornamented with carved quatrefoils, which has made more peregrinations than the tomb of " our Lady of Loretto," its first resting-place having been the abbey of Aberconway, the next that of Maenan, and lastly the old parish church of Llanrwst, where for a while it was lost under a superincumbent heap of rubbish, from which it was at last rescued to occupy its present situ- ation. Near the empty coffin is to be seen the recum- bent figure of Howel Coytmor, armed and mailed to the teeth, with his feet resting on a couchant lion. The singular monument on the southern wall will be sure to attract the attention of all visitors. It was erected to the memory of Sir John Wynne, but afterwards fell by neglect into a mutilated condition. It has, however, been recently restored by Lord Willoughby d'Eresby, and bears a centre slab, surmounted by an angel, and two pyramidal pillars, one profusely filled with flowers, and the other bearing shields with the heraldic emblems of the Gwydir family. A marble monument in the church, raised to the memory of Mr. Thomas, of Jesus College, Oxford, a young gentleman of considerable promise, contains the following impressive lines : o 2 196 LLANRWST. " It matters little at what hour o' the day The righteous falls asleep ; death cannot come To him untimely, who is fit to die ! The less of this cold world, the more the heaven The briefer life, the earlier immortality." I must not forget to relate, that, besides its tombs and monuments, the Gwydir Chapel contains, suspended against the wall, the antique spurs which belonged to the notorious David ap Jenkin, the very Robin Hood of this neighbourhood, of whom I shall have occasion to speak hereafter. The Bridge, constructed from the designs of Inigo Jones (who, though born in London, was by descent a Welshman), consists of three arches, the central one fifty-nine feet wide, the others much narrower. It was contemporaneous in its erection with Gwydir Chapel, and is said to be constructed upon such nice principles, that if any force be directed against the middle stone, placed over the centre arch, a vibratory motion is com- municated to the whole fabric. The granite blocks of which it is built are now become grey with the lapse of nearly two centuries, and its architectural beauty richly harmonizes with the varied hues and forms of all around. I stood on this bridge as I bade farewell to Llanrwst the following day, and enjoyed a splendid view up the river, which, in this direction, makes a bend for a considerable distance. Here, in the fishing season, may be seen great numbers of coracles, those vitilia navigia, or light boats, which, in the shallower streams of this country, supply the place of the mono- xula, or canoes fashioned out of a single tree, that in the larger rivers, as in Greece and other countries, GWYD1R CASTLE. 197 formed a first step towards a navy. A specimen of this singular kind of canoe, in which our ancestors fought against their more civilized enemies, may now be seen in the colonnade of the British Museum, with its benches and low bulwarks, almost complete. Here great quantities of salmon are taken ; and in the months of February and March, great numbers of smelt. I chose my route to Bettws y Coed by the road on the right of the river, because it contains many objects of great interest, and is besides in its retired sylvan character more to my taste. The road skirts the orchard-grounds belonging to Gwydir Castle, and in less than half a mile turns sharply to the left, and be- tween grove and mountain brings the traveller to this mansion, which is mainly interesting from its connection with the national and local events of the country. The entrance to the castle is through a court-yard, not now, as formerly, thronged with armed retainers ready to engage in the broils and bloody strife of its tumultuous history, but adorned with gay parterres of flowers, dis- closing their peaceful beauties, and perfuming the atmosphere with their aroma. This mansion is irre- gular in its form, from the frequent alterations which have been made in its architectural arrangements. The apartments, however, contain many subjects of taste in the antique carvings with which they are enriched, representing subjects connected with the Roman con- quest under Julius Caesar. They contain also two ela- borate specimens of tapestry and needle-work, and several fine pictures from the pencils of Wouvermans and Borgognone, and other eminent masters ; besides these there is to be seen the ancient manuscript, fairly 198 GWYDIR CASTLE. written by the hand of that learned antiquary Sir John Wynne, which has been found so essential in authenti- cating many passages in the history of Wales. The original structure was raised by John Wynne ab Mere- dydd, and the date of its erection was in the year 1555. Its present possessor is Lord Willoughby d'Eresby, who is spoken of as a kind landlord and a benevolent man. My courteous cicerone took considerable pains to show me the curiosities of the place, and when I bestowed at parting the small gratuity which a wayfarer's pocket would afford, she did not regard it with the supercilious air with which, I well remember, a much larger one was contemplated by the stately dame of Penrhyn Castle, after the hasty survey I was enabled to take of that magnificent pile. The gardens are laid out with that good taste which the noble proprietor displays, not only in the immediate neighbourhood of his own residence, but in the far- extended plantations which stretch for many miles over this fine estate. A spacious gravel walk leads to the elevated mural promenade which commands the lower part of the vale, to which the visitor is invited by an unrivalled group of ash and sycamore trees. Young cedars and dark yews here and there, singly or in groups, give variety and character to the less aspiring forms of blossoming shrubs and intermingling flower- beds. In the little valley Nant Bwlch yr Haiarn, at a short distance from Gwydir, is the cataract of Pare Mawr. The ascent to it is immediately from the road by a broad path cleared in the forest that thickly clothes the mountain-side. It was the heyday of the feathered GWYDIR CASTLE. 199 tribes, and the plaintive scream of a diminutive bird, the denizen of these woods, and which the natives call the Glaspar, resounded through the solitude, mingled with the monotonous, but not unmusical, notes of the wood-pigeon. The river which supplies the cataract is but of small volume ; and though the descent is con- siderable, and the features of the surrounding scenery wild and picturesque, it does not possess those extra- ordinary attributes which belong to the celebrated falls of Forth Llwyd or Dolgarrog, which I had visited the previous day. It would be unjust to the benevolent proprietor of this domain not to mention the provision he has made for the refreshment of the travel- worn pil- grim who may happen to pass this way. At a bowshot from Gwydir Castle stands the Fountain of St.'Albright. The stream which at this place offers its cooling waters to the lip of the traveller, as it issues through the stone conduit, is supplied by a large cistern constructed for that purpose at a considerable distance up the moun- tain: an open elevated stone court, of semicircular form, stands close to the road-side, backed by a strong wall of corresponding figure, surmounted in the centre by pedimental blocks : a narrow channel perforated in the wall opens a passage for the pure element, through which it issues all day long in one unceasing stream. The opening of the fountain to the public was cele- brated by Lord Willoughby in a general invitation of all the poor old men and women of the neighbour- hood to the hall, who were plentifully regaled with tea and cakes, and flowing flagons of good ale, and sent merrily home at night with a small portion of money in each of their pockets. To what calendar or gender the 200 CAR KEG Y GWALCH. patron saint of this fountain may belong I know not, and therefore I laid no votive offering on the shrine ; but I left my blessing on the head of the beneficent founder, of whose provision I had gratefully partaken, and only added a wish that the next time I should come that way he may have added a drinking-bowl, to serve instead of the laurel-leaf, which some ingenious wight had wittily inserted into the channel to guide the stream to the mouth of the traveller. The stupendous and long-extended mountain of Carreg y Gwalch (the hawk's rock) rises on the right of the road to Bettws y Coed, which, indeed, describes the base line of a series of rocky cliffs of the most gro- tesque forms and gigantic features, which has obtained this name. On the left flows the " gentle river," as if, wearied with cataracts and falls, it had found at last a peaceful level, and was at liberty to diffuse its enriching influences, and impart its enlivening charms, to a vale so lovely and green as is that of the Conway. Man, intelligent man, with an eye so wonderfully formed to take in, a heart to feel, and a taste to enjoy, the beau- ties which the God of nature has so bountifully spread before him, has not been slow to discover and yield to the enchanting beauties of this spot. The villas of Kinkelly and the Aucklands, and Hendre House, look from amongst the plantations that clothe the adjacent hills, while substantial farmhouses rest among the fields of the level lands, and the humble huts of the peasant gleam from the sunny summits all around. Nor is this solitude the voiceless solitude that holds divided empire with terror, when it reigns amongst the sterile rocks and gaunt mountains which from this place range CARREO Y GWALCH. 201 within the vision, or as it is felt amongst the vast Savan- nahs, the Prairies, and the Pampas, of the far-off West and South ; no, it is peace, the peace of happy rural life, the peace in which floats the melody of singing birds, the sounds of lowing herds, the murmuring of many waters, and the hum of the busy honey-gathering bee. The traveller has not attained two miles on his way, when he may see to his right two beetling rocks project- ing themselves from the topmost point of the mountain, looking like the shaggy eyebrows of Carreg y Gwalch, jutting out above the bristling beard of pine and larch that verdantly interlace their feathered branches to the bottom. These, then, mark that spot, called by the country people Ogof ap Shenkin (the cave of Shenkin), which is even now invested with terror and mystery by the wondering rustics. David ap Jenkin was an outlaw, and had gathered to himself a daring band of desperate men, which the civil wars of the Roses had either cre- ated, or left in security to pursue their lawless career. Jenkin's muster-ground for his merry men was not under the "greenwood tree/' but on the table-land on the summit of Carreg y Gwalch, his fortress and treasury, the cave in the rock which has inherited his name ; and the sphere of his enterprise, the territory which his searching eye could command from his Alpine observa- tory, sweeping from the base of Snowdon to the Straits of Menai. Nor were his marauding expeditions con- fined to the objects of plunder for himself and his band. The country was rife in domestic quarrels ; and in those turbulent times family feuds were decided not by the course of law and justice, but by the sinews and 202 CARREG Y GWALCH. swords of the strongest and boldest. Jenkin was too powerful an auxiliary to be neglected in such a state of things, and his reckless band frequently turned the scales in many a fierce encounter. Howel ap Rhys,* his kinsman, lived in that quarter, and it was the misfortune of this chieftain to possess an imperious, quarrelsome wife, who involved him in perpetual conflicts. On one occasion he sent for the outlaw to assist him in a mid- night attack upon the house of a neighbouring chief. Jenkin's band was disposed throughout the circum- jacent buildings, and occupied other dangerous posts ; but the attack had been foreseen, and was met withal by such a fierce and well- sustained resistance, that the robber was glad to draw off the remains of his shattered band, and to take refuge in his mountain-hold. Jenkin, like his prototype of Sherwood Forest, had a great deal of the humour of those times mingled with the reck- lessness of his character and pursuits. He was a prac- tised archer, and scarcely a bowman of that age could send a shaft with a surer aim or deadlier power. Many are the tales which are preserved of his exploits with this his favourite weapon ; but most of them are of that whimsical and capricious character which display more of merriment than cruelty. On one occasion he had observed a goodly number of rustics gathered in a circle, at their early dinner, round an ample bowl of hasty * Ap Rhys. The surname of the sou, in Wales, was generally the Christian name of the father, the sirename in its full meaning, ap, signifying "of," or "son of;" hence, ap Rhys, the son of Rhys. In modem times, these names have been anglicized by incorporating the " ap " with the sirename : thus, from ap Rhys is formed Price ; ap Evan is changed into Bevan ; ap Richard into Prichard ; ap Robert into Probert ; ap Hugh into Pugh, &c. CARREG Y GWALCH. 203 pudding, in a field opposite to his retreat. While they were flourishing their wooden spoons ready for the on- slaught upon their favourite condiment, the witty robber strung his bow, and taking a sure aim, sent the steady shaft right into the pudding, distributing its burning contents on the faces of the disappointed crew, who scampered off in all directions towards the farmer's kitchen. Unlike his brother on the other side of the Trent, whose humour it was only to enlist him who had proved himself the better man with cudgel or broad- sword, he never admitted into his band any whose prowess he had not previously tried and conquered. Roaming one day amidst his mountain forest, he met a sturdy stranger, armed like himself with bow and quiver, and quickly challenged him to a trial of skill. After various attempts of equal success, at last he placed a silver coin in the trunk of a tree, fixed on its edge, and having witnessed the fruitless efforts of his quondam companion, he pulled the string of his own bow and pierced the shivering coin, with a precision that called forth the admiration of his antagonist. Jen- kin's Cave has been mysteriously shut up ever since the outlaw disappeared from Carreg y Gwalch; nor have the curious rustics been able yet to find an inlet, though tradition reports that unknown treasures are buried within its dark vault. The road, as I before observed, creeps along the base of the mountain, but is sufficiently elevated to enable the traveller to look into the valley as he wends his way, and always to keep in sight the bright stream of the rolling river. Should he, indeed, desire to leave the dusty turnpike, he need only pass over the road- BETTWS Y COED. side steps which continually invite him, and he may then place the greensward underneath his feet, with very little interruption, to the end of his journey. Keeping, however, straightforward, he will find himself canopied in the shade of the spreading oak and ash, and other hedge-row timber, and if it be not too late in the spring, refreshed by the song of the cuckoo, and regaled with the fragrance of the wild flowers that love, and seek, the shelter of the hawthorn bush. I soon came to the spot which marks the confluence of the Llugwy and the Conway, and turned aside to watch the gentle dalliance of these streams as they hasten to embrace each other, where the birch and the alder spread their modest shade over a scene as lovely as the eye can well look upon. Resuming my route, I passed over the bridge called Pont y Pair,* and turning short to the left, entered the village through the turnpike- gate, which the reader will perceive at the extreme end of the perspective in the accompanying plate, and which I may say, en passant, is as faithful a picture as could be given of the little village of Bettws y Coed. * The bridge of the boiling caldron. CHAPTER XL BETTWS Y COED FALLS OF THE CONWAY AND MACHNO DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE CAPEL CURIG. Nature never did betray The heart that loved her ! Tis her privilege Through all the years of this our life, to lead From joy to joy. * * * * Then let the misty mountain winds be free To blow against thee ; and in after years, When these wild ecstasies shall be matured Into a sober pleasure when thy mind Shall be a mansion for all lovely forms, Thy memory be a dwelling-place For all sweet sounds and harmonies, oh ! then If solitude, or fear, or pain, or grief, Should be thy portion, with what healing thoughts Of tender joy wilt thou remember me, And these my benedictions ! WORDSWORTH. " THIS day shall be a day of pleasure/' was the joy- ous exclamation of the Lord of Ethiopia, the monarch of forty nations, when he arose, with elastic step, in the morning of that cycle of time which he had conse- crated to the alluring goddess of this world's happi- ness. Seged was disappointed, and his unsatisfied heart, when the sun sunk to rest below the Great Cataract of the Nile, attested the utter vanity of his youthful prediction. The case was different with me. 206 BETTWS Y COED. My course of wandering through this world of care had disciplined my heart to disappointment, and I was con- tent to enjoy the blessing of the present moment. The sun rose with a June splendour over the village of BETTWS Y COED, dispersing the light haze which hung over those far-stretching plantations of luxuriant larch- trees, that distinguished it from every other place I had seen in the Principality. These graceful trees, which in the early season of the year are almost the first to greet his ray in their spring dress of lively green, are here ranged in serried lines of richest ver- dure along the valley, and feather the mountain sides to their loftiest summits. The broad beam which in the early morning seemed to gush, like a gentle flood, over a meadow of these trees, with their lancet tops grace- fully bending to meet his approach, became shivered into a thousand particles of light by the contact, cir- culating round their pensile branches, revealing the transparent fibres and delicate hues of their tasselled leaves. I had made my head-quarters at the Royal Oak, which I can recommend for its homely comforts, and the active services of the little obliging grisette, who never lets the traveller wait long for his savoury break- fast of eggs and ham, a quality which I take to be one of no small consequence in this land, where long moun- tain-walks and many roads at all times provide him with a craving appetite. The alluring sunshine, and the health-inspiring breeze of the morning, were calling me forth, and I had besides the time-hallowed castle ruins of Dolwyddelan, the Conway Falls, and I knew not what of interest and beauty, to lead me on in " my THE LLEDR. 207 day of pleasure." I therefore put myself in the way for the former place as soon as I could despatch my hearty meal, and presently passed over the Waterloo Bridge, an elegant structure of cast-iron, with an arch upwards of one hundred feet in the span, clasping the Conway from bank to bank. The way turns to the right immediately on crossing the bridge, and winds by the river-side through a grove of larch and pine, below and parallel with the great Holyhead turnpike-road, and then again passes over the Conway by the little pontile fabric of Beaverpool. The mountain-range on the right, along which the track is now continued, suddenly terminates, and the road wheels round as if bidding adieu to the highway world, and penetrates the valley through which the river Lledr hastens its noisy stream to swell the Con- way. Nothing that I had witnessed can be compared to the seclusion of this romantic glen ; even the occa- sional dwelling-place of man, perched on the table of some frowning cliff, or the solitary animal that browsed upon the scanty herbage of the hollows, or looked wist- fully from the topmast crag, seemed to confirm the loneliness of the place. The sound of my own step, the ceaseless murmur of the fretful stream, or the twofold shout of that "voice of Spring," as the poets have called the cuckoo and sweet, indeed, was that voice, were all of animated life that awakened the scene from entire solitude. It is true that the course of the waters traced the bottoms with a pleasant green, and where the valley and the river expand, the meadows spread themselves out, reaching from one mountain-base to the other, and even covering the gentler slopes and 208 DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE. eminences with their verdure. The road, however, soon assumes a more primeval character, and is carried forward amidst natural features the most wild and savage, and sometimes underneath impending rocks, which cast an awful shade upon the traveller's path. The creeping ivy in many places covers the grotesque masses, giving them the appearance of ruined for- tresses, or the time-worn towers of ancient days ; and here and there the "Lady of the Woods " finds a scanty nurture for her roots, and waves her signal plume amongst the rocks, as she does on some of the highest cliffs of the Alps. The river rushes with the powerful roll of a cataract through the riven rocks that line its channels, and is crossed by rude wooden bridges, resting on piers of loose stones, such as not unfrequently clasp the yawning ravines of the Forest Cantons. By- and-by the scene changes : the rocky defile opens out, and the Lledr flows in a channel deep and wide ; the stern mountains recede gently away, and discover the little village of DOLWYDDELAN, with its sanctuary of prayer and clustered dwelling-places, resting in peace at the head of the valley, while the towering ruins of its ancient castle, fronting the view, look as if placed in guardianship over the scene. The bowl of the valley is surrounded on all sides by hills and mountains, range after range, with Moel Siabod rearing itself as the monarch of the group. In the centre rises the precipitous rock on which is to be seen all that remains of the old fortress. One square tower of massive masonry alone retains its original form, facing a parallel wall, with an area DOLWYDDELAN CASTLE. 209 between, which probably marked the place of the chief apartment, or hall of audience. This castle dates its origin as far back as the year 500. In the twelfth century it was the residence of lorwerth Drwyndwn, or the Broken Nose, the eldest son of Owen Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, who was set aside from the succession on account of this defect. It is said to have been the birthplace of Llewelyn the Great, who afterwards took his seat on the throne of the Principality. It was one of those ancient fortresses which encircled the Snowdonian region, and was connected with the defence of the passes of Nant Frangon and Llanberis ; and through the turbulent times of intestine warfare and foreign invasion was not unfrequently the stronghold of rob- bers, and the theatre of deadly conflicts arising from family feuds and private quarrels. How strange a con- trast now appeared ! The flocks were carelessly feeding in the very heart of these bandit haunts ; the grass- hopper chirped, and the birds built under the shadow of the tower;* while the serene joy and quiet of evening seemed shed on every object around. The weed covered its antique arched windows, the ivy and wild * The lower part of the tower, which yet remains, extends to forty feet by twenty-five, and would appear to have consisted of three stories, and a court-yard running between the two portions. The walls are above six feet in thickness, and constructed of the stone of the country. Mr. Pennant says that in his time there remained the lower portion of two towers, measurements of which he gives. One only, and part of a wall belonging to the second, now exist, although Evans, Nicholson, and most recent Cambrian tourists, repeat the statement of Pennant, and give his admeasurement. P 210 FALLS OF THE CONWAY. laurel sprung from its walls and loopholes, and the broken winding steps scarcely afforded footing by which to ascend. It was market-day at Llanrwst when I visited the castle, and on my return I had an opportunity of seeing the pass of Dolwyddelan under new attributes. The road was now animated with moving and voluble life. Substantial farmers, on foot or horseback, were returning to their secluded homes, after a day of chaf- fering, buying, and selling, in that exhilarated con- dition well known in the rural districts by the title of " market-merry." The comely dames of the neigh- bourhood were mounted singly on well-fed palfreys, and the humbler peasants were driving before them on the dusty road flocks, and herds, and noisy litters. Where the track would permit the social disposition to predominate, the groups came on chattering and laugh- ingj as the incidents of the day or their own good humour might inspire, and when the road was narrow, threading their way in Indian file amongst the beetling rocks and dizzy cliffs. The sun was gently declining when I reached that point in the Holyhead road from which I struck off across the fields to view the Falls of the Con way. The ear of the wanderer is instructed of their proximity by the noise of rushing waters, but the immediate neigh- bourhood of this wonderful scene is more directly indi- cated by a thin plantation of young timber, so widely dispersed as not to interrupt the growth of the green herbage, and the pale primroses and gay wild flowers that everywhere invite his attention. A narrow path winds down the declivity amongst the trees, that FALLS OF THE CONWAY. 211 thicken into a forest as he approaches the table-rocks upon which he first pauses to contemplate a subject combining so many new features of the sublime and beautiful. A vast circular opening in the high lands, lined by perpendicular granite rocks, discloses a magni- ficent hall, stupendous in height, and deepening into almost impenetrable gloom. On each side rude masses of rock project themselves, assuming something like architectural shapes, and dividing at intervals the stern channelled curtain of the gulph, give to the whole the character of a building formed by a giant hand, and moulded after some savage taste. Two huge frag- ments, at the extreme height, rear themselves like stern sentinels on opposite sides, through which the foaming cataract tumbles with headlong fury, giving light and life to the supreme wildness and solitude of the place. A capacious basin, hollowed by time and the ceaseless action of the elements, receives the boiling flood, which here for a while stays its headlong fury, and becomes distributed amongst numerous stony hollows. Again the accumulated waters overleap their barriers, and then they rush forward in one impatient current, spout- ing and springing over riven rocks and through deep chasms, till they reach the level bottom beyond the confluence of the Lledr with the Conway, where they quietly subside into one calm clear stream. At the time I paid my visit to the Falls the dry season had considerably diminished the force of the waters : the broad masses of rock which everywhere rear them- selves, and pave the floor of the first descent, afforded safe footing for the adventurer, and I stepped from one to another in perfect security. An enterprising angler p 2 212 FALLS OF THE MACHNO. had at that moment cast his line into the eddying pool, but meeting with no success he at length wound up his reel, and taking his rod in his hand, sprang on the almost perpendicular bank, sloping his difficult way among the trees, helping himself in his perilous ascent by their branches, and hanging his rod from time to time upon the interposing twigs, till he placed his foot securely upon the dizzy heights that overlook the gulph, and silently disappeared like a vision from the sight. I never, that I remember, looked upon a human being with deeper interest or more breathless anxiety as he cautiously removed his steps from one slippery footing to another, expecting, as I did, every moment to see him fall a mangled corpse into the dismal cavern. This bold and skilful fisherman, my guide informed me, was the proprietor of one of the gentlemanly mansions which I have before mentioned in the Vale of Llanrwst. The Falls of the MACHNO are but a diminutive repre- sentation of those of the Con way, yet they possess so many of the attributes of natural grandeur and pic- turesque beauty as to have been compared to those of Tivoli in the Campagna Romana. It is a wild and woody scene, where the roaring stream tumbles from rock to rock, hurried forward by its own impetuous force, and the downward course of the current. A noble oak, one of the finest I have seen in Wales, spreads its broad arms over the deep ravine, and mal- lows of graceful form and towering height shadow themselves in the restless waters. A thin grove of fine birch-trees clothes the sides of the descent, and the sylvan beauty of the scene is not a little enhanced by the picturesque figure of Tandy Mill, whose broad BETTWS Y COED. 213 wheel is impelled in its noisy gyrations by a diversion of the flowing stream. I reached the turnpike-road by the bridge, which has received the title of Pont Newydd Pemnachno. The old structure, which crossed the Machno near the point where it flows into the Conway, had become dilapidated and dangerous, and a new and commodious one was therefore determined upon. The architect completed his labours to his own satisfaction as the night set in, and retired with the purpose of contemplating in the full daylight of the next morning the work by which his name was to be emblazoned in the rolls of fame, and handed down to posterity. He hastened as the sun rose with all imaginable speed to the spot ; when, lo ! his astonished and distracted eye rested upon a heap of ruins. Some of the nice principles of geometrical pro- portion had been forgotten or misplaced by the work- men, and in the course of that eventful night the bridge had given way, and fell with a tremendous crash into the channel of the river. Though the effort of his ability, by this sad disaster, had become deranged, the artist himself did not become so, but set steadily to work again like a man of talent and resolution ; and the present beautiful structure promises to give reputation to his name, as much by its pictorial figure and sub- stantial masonry as by the curious circumstances at- tending its history. It was a lovely evening when I entered once more the pleasant village of Bettws y Coed. The sun was gently sinking below the broad belt of Moel Siabod, whilst the thin gauzy vapours that his warm beams had exhaled were rising like the veil of night over the humid mea- 214 BETTWS Y COED. dows, and investing the spiral forms of the larch and pine with their phantom robes. The mellow song of the blackbird, which had resounded almost to ecstasy through the sequestered woods of the Conway and the Machno, had ceased, and a peace that might almost be felt in the inmost heart, seemed to lay all nature to rest. I was surprised on my return, at the gathering of many visitors in the family room of mine host of the Royal Oak, and the more than usual order and gravity that prevailed throughout the domicile ; but the secret was revealed when I heard the voice of some one reading, with "solemn air," the words of Holy Writ. The clattering feet of the little party announced another movement, and the same voice then rose in reverential prayer, deepening into pathos, and advancing into im- passioned earnestness, as the varied subjects of his sup- plication seemed to engage his attention. When the family devotion was ended, I could hear the nightly greetings as the party separated either to their own homes, or to their resting-places in the house. The whole of the service was conducted in the Welsh lan- guage, of which I did not understand a word, and I could therefore only judge of the several parts by the tones and action of the speaker. I was greatly affected with the circumstance at the time, especially by the thought, ordinary enough in itself, but which at that moment came with extraordinary force to my mind, that He, the great Father of all, could perfectly understand the prayer of his children, to what tribes of earth soever they might belong, and with whatever language they might address the throne of his Mercy. In the morn- ing the same religious services were conducted, and BETTWS Y COED. 215 when I made some inquiries on the subject, I found that a minister belonging to the body of Calvinistic Methodists, with which the Principality abounds, was making an itinerant visitation amongst the churches, and that my good host was a member of that which had been gathered into religious fellowship in this secluded place. The Church at Bettws y Coed is small enough to become a proverb ; but simple as is its form and con- tracted its dimensions, it serves the double purpose of a school on working-days, and a house of prayer on the sabbath. The schoolmaster, whose acquaintance I made, was an intelligent old man, but an inveterate smoker, as I divine by the short black pipe which I discovered safely ensconced, amongst sundry dirty dog-eared leaves of spelling-books and catechisms, in the baptismal font". The armed effigy of the redoubtable warrior, Griffith, son of David Goch,* of the royal lineage of Wales, who makes such a figure in most guide-books, is now very unceremoniously placed underneath the seat which bears this notice rudely written on the wall : " This monument and seat belong to the Rev. D. Price, A.M." The churchyard is within a field's length of the Conway," whose murmuring music may be heard by the contem- plative wanderer as he looks upon the fine old yews, time-worn and blasted by storms, whose records reach far beyond all village traditions, and whose horizontal branches spread their shade over a space of fifty feet. The Llugwy, as I have before said, joins the Conway at a short distance from Bettws y Coed; before it * On one side of the figure there is yet left this inscription " Hio .jacet Griffydd ap David Goch. Agnus Dei miserere mei." 216 PONT Y PAIR. reaches this village its course has been impetuous, and the foaming current passes with the fury of a cataract through the arches of Pont y Pair, which is fitly trans- lated the Bridge of the Caldron, before it wheels round and quietly disembogues its waters into the channel of the latter river. Pont y Pair is an old bridge of stone masonry, covered with ivy nearly from one end to the other. I passed over it to the opposite bank, and crossing the little gar- den belonging to one of the cottages, took my station upon one of the rocky projections looking up the river. It was some time since any rain had fallen, and the stream was comparatively shallow, exposing the rude masses of granite that stood midway in the channel, and laying bare to their foundations the broad deep chasms which the rushing waters had formed in their headlong descent. At a more favourable season the scene at the Bridge of the Caldron must be one of the most magnificent and interesting description. The banks were everywhere thickly clothed with waving woods, which hung their branches in rich festoons upon the surface of the stream, and painted their flickering 'shadows in mimic and ever-shifting pictures upon the glassy element as it rolled rapidly along. This beau- tiful bridge was erected in the fifteenth century, by a mason of the name of Howel, residing at Penllyn, who had been detained at this point by the overflowing flood of the Llugwy, when he was on his way to attend a meeting at the town of Conway. To prevent future inconvenience he first built a wooden structure, and afterwards this substantial bridge, trusting for the repayment of his expenses to the voluntary contri- BETTWS Y COED. 217 bution of travellers who might have occasion to pass this road. The Welsh have a way, and a sensible one it is, of giving names to places and objects which are expressive of their natural features. BETTWS Y COED, being trans- lated, means the Station in the Wood ; and so green and leafy, so screened and embowered, is this sylvan retreat, that I must confess, wanderer as I am, I left its peaceful retirement with heartfelt regret. I has- tened through its neat and gabled turnpike, not, how- ever, without bidding adieu to the gouty keeper, who at that bright season of the year might be daily seen at his post, sunning himself on his easy-chair, and with whom I had had many a gossip about the marvels of the neighbourhood. " To my mind, Sir," said the old man as I parted from him, " go where you will, you wifl never meet with a prettier waterfall than this here at Bettws." I, however, did meet with a " prettier water- fall," as the reader will discover, if he be not wearied with following me in my capricious detours from place to place. The road westward from Bettws y Coed is almost a continual ascent. Towering hills rise on each side ; and, from their peculiar direction in the foreground of the prospect, it would almost seem to the traveller as if they had been so disposed as to shut in and barricade the little village from any communion with the outward world. Plantations in all the hues of verdure, from the palest to the deepest green, grew in wonderful luxu- riance from the deep bottoms to the topmost heights, except, indeed, where their coloured lines were inter- cepted by frowning headlands of gray and grimly- 218 RHAIADR Y WENOL. figured rocks. The winding road brought me at length to another scene of natural grandeur and beauty. A little wicket, on the right, for so I had been previously instructed, opened out to me the narrow path that leads to the Khaiadr y Wenol, or the Fall of the Swallow. I followed its winding direction, under the thick covert of spreading branches, till I reached a secure footing nearly at the bottom of the fall. I had not ventured to lift my eyes during the slippery descent till I had gained this sure resting-place ; and therefore was not prepared for the wonderful picture that at once re- vealed itself in almost unequalled majesty and beauty. Through the midst of the thick wood, that densely shaded the back-ground, the broad stream came pour- ing on in all its swelling pomp till it reached a belt of jagged projecting rocks, which stretched from side to side, like a great breakwater. Over this forehead of the chasm it leaps with angry violence, without a moment's pause, in distinctly-separated tides ; the white foam of its fury striping the bronzed face of the iron barrier. A shelving floor of rocks receives the congre- gated waters, and in one mighty flood sends them bel- lowing into the gaping gulph. A still lower basin, time-worn and capacious, receives them within its scoop, where the eddying lake takes the green hue of the trees that throng its margin, and lave their branches in its clear element, as if they would kiss the troubled element into peace. From this lake the waters issue in precipitous currents, and hurry on brawl- ing and chafing over bold and broken rocks till they finally attain the comparatively even bed of the river. A series of weather-beaten rocks shelve from the sides Near Cartel- THE COVEN FALLS. 219 of the torrent, and with their brows surmounted by trees of young and delicate growth, appear like a file of plumed Indian warriors. Below, all that engages the eye and ear is the tumult of rushing waters, and the deafening shout of the mighty cataract; above, and on the sloping sides, is a carpet of velvet moss, starred with primroses, and glowing with wild flowers of all forms and hues. Amidst the grove that lines the steep banks, so high as almost to reach beyond the sight and hearing of the falls, the birds warble their morning and evening songs, and so strangely hid is this natural pic- ture from the passing traveller, that he would scarcely be sensible he was in the neighbourhood of an object so magnificent and inviting. It is scarcely needful to add, that the artist of the drawing from which this plate is taken, has very correctly transferred most of the remarkable features of the Rhaiadr y Wenol. Im- mediately on the right, in mimic contrast with the bold peak on which it stands, peers a little summer-house or observatory, erected, as I was informed, by one of the landed proprietors of this neighbourhood to commemo- rate the successful termination of a lawsuit. The great Holyhead road which has skirted the grove, now reaches the elevated pavement, with its semicircular recesses and stone parapet, flanking the stream of the Llugwy to the left ; and approaches the picturesque bridge, through which the gushing waters flow, giving the name of the Coven Falls to this spot. To the traveller in Wales nothing fixes his attention so much as the gigantic masses of granite rocks that inter- pose in the channels of the various rivers, or that lie in enormous layers upon the banks. These, in a remark- 220 THE VALE OP THE LLUGWY. able degree, characterize the features of the Llugwy at this place, while their stern aspect is softened by the peculiar grace of the pendent trees, which seem to take root, un planted and uncared for, in every fissure that will afford them nourishment. From hence the VALE OF THE LLUGWY continues to the Mymbyr lakes, near Capel Curig. In the centre of the scene the river holds on its course, dashing over all obstructions, now rushing through the narrow channel within its iron-bound steeps, and now gently flowing beside the rich woods, or circulating its re- freshing waters through the open wide-spread mea- dows. On the left the indented front of Moel Siabod glimmers in the summer sunshine, offering from its summit extensive views ; and far off, in the midst of a circling belt of mountains, rises the highest peak of Snowdon. CHAPTER XII. CAPEL CURIG MOEL SIABOD EXCURSION TO THE GLYDER FAWR AND LLYN IDWAL, AND OVER THE MOUNTAIN TO LLYN OGWEN. " Th' embattled tower, o'ergrown with bearded moss, And by the melancholy skill of time Moulded to beauty, charms the bosom more Than the rich palaces of princes. Rocks, Which raise their crested heads into the clouds, Piled in sublimity, create a scene More grand, more soothing to the pensive soul, Than Rome with all its splendour." THE place called CAPEL CURIG does not assume the appellation of village, for it consists only of a few cot- tages, a rustic chapel of ease belonging to the extensive parish of Llandegai, and a large and commodious inn arranged for the accommodation of visitors, which, from the many interesting objects in its neighbourhood, be- comes the head- quarters of numerous travellers " in search of the picturesque." It stands at the junction of three valleys, one of which leads to Nant Frangon, another to Llanberis and Beddgelert, and the third to Bettws y Coed ; and opens upon a pleasant garden, neatly and conveniently laid out, backed by a spread- ing plantation of young and healthy timber. Capel 222 CAPEL CURIG. Curig * derives its name from an anchorite called Curig, who travelled from the north of England and fixed his cell at this place in the sixth century. After his ad- mission into the calendar, the effigies of this canonized saint, like those of his holy brother in Priestholme Island, were sold amongst the simple inhabitants as a sovereign remedy against evil spirits and inveterate disorders, as is translated from the original satire of Glyn Cothi, an eminent bard of these parts : "Beneath his cloak the begging friar bore The guardian charm, gray Curig, to the door. Another Seiriol's healing image sold, And found the useful saints like modern gold." The begging system still continues in Wales, but under another form, and instead of the images of saints and martyrs, little pieces of ore are exhibited by the old women and children to tempt the money out of the stranger's pocket. The harper was rapidly running his fingers over the strings of his Telyn when I entered the inn, and while I was satisfactorily engaged with some substantial re- freshment, he entertained my ears with his somewhat scanty store of national minstrelsy. Sundry steps lead the visitor across the garden inclo- sure into the open plain, in which, close at hand, are two lakes of unequal extent, with a boat moored at the side, tempting the angler into the midwaters to spin a minnow, or cast his May-fly before the eyes of the spotted trout with which they abound. From this spot * Capel Curig is pronounced Kapple Keiirig, the c being always sounded hard in Welsh. It is frequently incorrectly called by strangers Kaypel Kewrig. ' CAPEL CURIG. 223 is a magnificent panoramic view. Each object is on an extensive scale the mountains are bleak, yet varied and picturesque; and, looking over the lakes, the highest peak of Snowdon is distinctly seen towering into the clouds in the extreme distance. The air of the place is solemn and lonely, especially should the tra- veller hear at the same time, as was the case when I viewed it, the sweet and single note of the cuckoo, pro- bably its last song before the return of another spring, reverberating " Like an echo that had lost itself Among the distant hills." The high conical mountain called Moel Siabod rises near the inn, its base appearing almost within bowshot, and having its early steeps redeemed by industrious hands from the sterile rocks, smiling in verdure and specked with cottages, such as travellers have delighted to describe the sloping hills of Judea. It covers an immense space of country, and rises to a height of 2,878 feet. The ascent is difficult, and sometimes dan- gerous, from the boggy nature of the surface of the ground ; but it may be safely performed with a guide ; and those who cannot accomplish the ascent of Snow- don, should, if possible, take Moel Siabod. The sum- mit is covered in parts with immense pieces of rock, and from it are views of Snowdon, the Glyder Fawr, Carnedd David, and other eminences, portions of the counties of Denbigh and Merioneth, including nume- rous rivers and lakes. The distance from Capel Curig to the summit, although it appears so near, is quite four miles. On the eastern side of the mountain is a pool called Llyn y Foel, from which rises one of the 224 GLYDER FAWR. tributaries of the river Couway, and on the western side are two of larger extent, joined by a short stream, called Llyniau Duwaunedd : from the larger one issues a river which runs past Dolwyddelan Castle, near which place it forms a junction with that before named. From Capel Curig I determined on an excursion through the valley of the Mymbyr, and an ascent of the Glyder to Llyn Idwal, from thence over the moun- tain to Llyn Ogwen, and along the high road to the spot from which I started. Leaving the inn after a savoury breakfast (for be it known to the traveller who, like myself, may be somewhat careless in these matters, that in this excursion, which will occupy at least eight or nine hours, no refreshment can be procured), I took my way with an intelligent guide through the long valley of Dyffryn Mymbyr.* Soon the scene became wild and beautiful ; the Glyder Bach rose on one side, and the shadow of the dark Siabod fell on the lakes on the other. Along the sides of the babbling river which feeds the lakes, and on patches of meadow, people were busy in their little hay -harvest, the black massy bar- riers of hills being in striking contrast with the occa- sional green bright hues of the banks of the stream. Snowdon lay before me, with its blue, or rather purple peaks, softening downwards through every grade of colour till it terminates in the deep-brown and swarthy rocks in the foreground. Continually expanding and * It is sometimes very difficult to obtain correct information of the names of particular localities, even from the natives and residents of the district themselves. For instance, I heard the valley which runs from Capel Curig four or five miles towards Llanberis, and which is the one now described, successively denominated Dyffryn Mymbyr, Dyffryn y Gwryd, and the Valley of Capel Curig. GLYDER FAWR. 225 changing its aspects as we drew nearer the light haze moving round its summits, or resting midway in deeper volumes now obscuring and revealing different objects and points of view, blended with the character of the surrounding scenery, formed a most interesting scene. After walking along the road and a very pleasant road it is, from its many wayside beauties and objects of historic interest as far as Pont y Gwryd, we com- menced the ascent on our right ; but met with so many difficulties from the bogs and quagmires, that we slowly retraced our steps to the " sure and firm-set earth " by the main road, and continuing our course along it about a quarter of a mile further, halted at a small public-house called Pen y Gwryd, close by the junction of the macadamized routes that lead from Capel Curig, Llanberis, and Beddgelert. From this house we com- menced the ascent of the Glyder Fawr, leaving the pool called Llyn y Cwm-ffyunon on our left. The surface of the ground for the first quarter of a mile was spongy and boggy ; but presently we came to the steeper part of the hill, where high stones and rocks almost pre- vented our progress. No track was to be seen to direct our steps ; for the hill is seldom traversed save by shep- herds and the hardy miners of the district ; and as it would be difficult and dangerous for a stranger to attempt the ascent alone, a guide should always be taken, and this precaution will also render the excur- sion easier and pleasanter. The Glyder hills entirely fill the space between the vales of Llanberis, Mymbyr, and Nant Frangon. From the summit of the Great Glyder I marked the scenes through which I had passed on my previous Q 226 GLYDER FAWR. wanderings through Snowdonia, spread on ievery side in extreme beauty and magnificence. To the west lay the vale and extensive lakes of Llanberis ; on one side the barren heathy tract of Waun Oer and the Lesser Glyder, lighted up with meridian sunshine, and on the other the towering precipice of Clogwyn-du overhang- ing the dark waters of Llyn Idwal, the strangely-in- dented Trifaen, thJe massy Carnedds of David and Llewelyn, and below the yawning chasm of Benglog opening into Nant Frangon, . and the Ogwen pouring its clear waters through the deep glen beneath. The surface of the ground upon which I stood had a most singular appearance. It seemed as if it had been washed by a tremendous sea ; the stones lay loose, and strewn at hazard as on some wild coast; the rocks, bare, cloven, and jagged, crossed each other in different directions, while the huge, triple-headed Trifaen, with its sharp angular projections, height above height, seemed like some huge monster, with human aspect strangely distorted, scowling upon the Carnedd y Gwynt, the scattered ruins of the storm. And well to me indeed at that moment appeared this tract of Snowdonia to have been thus designated, as I marked the traces of the tempest's far and fierce career around and on all sides, and the naked peaks that reared their gray crests to the clouds. Nowhere in the region of the higher hills had I ob- served deeper traces of the flood and the tempest than amidst these tremendous barriers of steep rocks and precipices which seemed to bid defiance to the steps of the most adventurous traveller. I was particularly struck with the bleak and stormv character of the LLYN IDWAL. 227 scenery around the gloomy pool of Llyn Idwal, sin- gularly situated in a hollow of the mountain summit. Restless as the sea, although never much disturbed, and fiercely swept by the howling blasts, as I passed this lone and savage spot its aspect fell chill upon the spirits, and I felt how truly the popular feeling, which seldom errs, had given to this gloomy region the marked appel- lations of the " Cold Mountain Waste," and the " Shep- herd's Hill of Storms." Nor has popular tradition failed to throw round it the spell of superstitious terror, of heroic adventure, and romance. The mountain tenants in passing by the hollow of the lake, and beneath the beetling precipice of Castel Geifr the Fortress of the Goats carefully shun the spot infamous for the murder of the young Prince Idwal, son of Owen Gwynedd, by the hands of his treacherous guardian ; for some of the superstitious among them yet believe that his unappeased spirit is still heard wailing in the storm, or throwing a darker shadow over the black precipice of Twll-du.'* On the highest part of this mountain, two peaks stand forth like the stern commanders of ancient days in that refuge of rocks ; or, it might be, like triumphant travellers, calling from that proud eminence to their less enterprising companions, who were well content to trace their path along the vale beneath. In reality, however, these imposing personages which give such a * In other words, the Hole of Blackness, a horrid chasm in the centre of a tremendous precipice, extending in length about a hundred and fifty yards, nearly one hundred in depth, and only six wide. It is open in a perpendicular line to the surface of the mountain. After heavy rain the water rushes through this fissure with great violence from a height of about one hundred yards. Q 2 228 TRIFAEN MOUNTAIN. picturesque and almost living effect to the scene, are only two isolated perpendicular pieces of rock, about fourteen feet in height and five feet asunder. Mr. Bingley, who ascended the Trifaen, after visiting Llyn Idwal, states, that it was not only attended with diffi- culty but danger, and therefore not to be recommended. " Here," says he, speaking of the summit, " from the massy crag we contemplated the scene around us, which was rude as mountain horror can render it : we stood on a mere point, and on one side of us was a deeper precipice than any I had before seen." The savage grandeur of the route over the Glyder, including the neighbouring lakes and minor hills, is not surpassed in Wales, and only seems to want those gangs of hungry wolves, which anciently prowled over these desolate districts before the time of Egbert, to realize their primitive barbarity. The surrounding mountains Snowdon, Moel Siabod, the Trifaen, Car- nedd David, &c., are among the highest in Britain.* But a small proportion of tourists, however, avail them- selves of the opportunity of observing the peculiar cha- racteristics of scenes where Nature apparently reigns in untameable desolation. The descent is difficult and tedious, requiring from the traveller an unwearied foot and never-ceasing exertion. The toil of the adventurous pedestrian is nevertheless amply repaid from the scenes of extraordinary interest which arise * In the " Breuiarie of Britayne " we read that this was "the best fortified parte of all Wales, for it conteyneth the highest mountaynes and rockes of all Britayne, which wee terme Yriri ; the Englishmen, Snowdowne, because they carie snow. For height and plentie of cattayle, scarce inferiour to the Alpes. It hath in it many rivers and standing waters." SNOWDONIA. 229 to excite his admiration, almost until he reaches the Holyhead mail-road in the gorge of the hills by Llyn Ogwen, which has been described in a previous chapter. When I once more attained this splendid road, which has long been the wonder of travellers from all parts of the world, winding as it does among the wildest passes and denies of this wonderful land, I felt myself at liberty, with an emotion of conscious satis- faction, to retrace in my memory the slippery and dan- gerous path I had thus successfully trod. Like most travellers, after they have accomplished a task of great peril and difficulty, I had not advanced more than a mile on my way to the inn at Capel Curig, when I turned to take a parting view of the sublime region from which I had so recently descended. The rays of the evening sun were now glittering on the summits of the Trifaen mountain, throwing into bold relief those singular and strangely-marked indentions, which have given to this giant eminence its characteristic appella- tion of Tri-faen.* The journey to Snowdon from Capel Curig is rarely made except by the most hardy pedestrian, because of the distance from the inn to the point where it may be considered that the real ascent is commenced. On one occasion, however, I was tempted to make the excursion, and as the route possesses subjects of great interest pecu- liar to itself, I give it for the benefit of any wanderer who, like myself, may happen to be a sojourner at this pleasant place. Pursuing the route through the valley of the Mymbyr, at about a mile past Pen y Gwryd, on the road to Llanberis, I branched off to the left, and soon came to the small pool called Llyn Teyrn, taking the * "The three rocks." 230 SNOWDONIA. beaten track above Cwm Dyli and close to the south- eastern boundary of Llyn Llydaw, then westerly, leaving the Lliwedd (one of the buttresses of Snowdon) to the left, direct to Llyn Glaslyn ; and thence by a difficult and circuitous route to the highest point Y Wyddfa. This ascent is very laborious, and has something of danger in it ; but it is recompensed by scenes of extra- ordinary wildness and grandeur, over which Solitude seems to brood with undisturbed silence, scarcely ever broken by the wing of bird, or the voice of melody. It is a track, however, which the phytologist will find rich in specimens of that peculiar species of the vegetable kingdom, which the celebrated Linnaeus has described by the pictural appellation of Etherese, a tribe only to be found in the higher regions of the air. At times, indeed, my progress continued over almost perpendicular stones from rock to rock, or broad and high escarp- ments. In some places the path was loose and gravelly, in others a light elastic sward refreshed my weary foot, which was followed by a long slip as hard as adamant. Now and then a sudden and bold descent unexpectedly revealed one of those cwms or hollows so frequent in this mountainous region, in which a whole camp of the ancient Britons might have lain concealed from observa- tion; and again rising from this seclusion, patches of level land spread themselves round some lake, or stretched along some green and solitary glen, watered with gurgling streams, disclosing their proximate beau- ties. In every direction prospects the most magnificent opened to view, and every crag which I surmounted was furnished with objects of picturesque effect, or deep and absorbing interest. CHAPTER XIII. LLANBERIS- SNOWDONIA ASCENT OF SNOWDON NANT GWYNANT BEDDGELERT. What are high and impending rocks what are the giant hearings of an angry ocean and what the proudest summit of the Andes, when placed in the scale of such interminable vastness as the creating, balancing, and peopling of innumerable globes? In contemplating systems so infinite, who can forbear exclaiming What a molehill is our earth, and how insignificant are we who creep so proudly on her surface ! BUCKS. LLANBERIS, with its vale and mountains, and above all, its deep and beautiful lakes, is an object which attracts a host of pilgrims from all lands to visit the northern part of the Principality. The usual plan is to take this celebrated spot en route from Carnarvon to Capel Curig or Beddgelert, or if convenience should serve, to reverse the order of the journey, and com- mence it from either of the latter places. The reader will have perceived, that from Carnarvon I branched off westerly to Holyhead ; this I did with the intention of taking Llanberis after Capel Curig, before going southward to Beddgelert and Merioneth- shire. But to return, after retracing my walk along the valley of the Mymbyr, as described in the last chapter, as far as Pen y Gwryd, I left the Beddgelert road on my left, and proceeding along in the direction of that 232 PASS OF LLANBERIS. leading to Carnarvon, enjoyed a magnificent view over the widely-extended vale and lake of Gwynant, with its surrounding Alpine scenery, where one solitary sheep more fearless than another will now and then climb into the jagged fissures of the mountain, and subsist on the scanty herbage that occasionally presents itself. I was not long in reaching that part of the road most signifi- cantly denominated Gorphwysfa* the resting-place. At this elevated spot the tremendous pass of Llanberis commences, extending about four miles through the defile, till the open valley, in which the village stands, is first revealed like the distant aperture of a railway tunnel. The open space at the end of this dismal pass, and which forms the upper or broad part of the valley, claims the title of Cwm Glas, or the Blue Vale. In days of yore a mere horse-path led the adventurous traveller through this region of awful magnificence, leading over craggy rocks, with the mountain walls rising almost perpendicularly on each side, while mil- lions of granite fragments of every size and shape, de- tached by some convulsion of Nature, lay scattered all around. Now, however, a most excellent road is formed all the way to Carnarvon, which in several parts is cut through the solid rock, and in others hewn out of its shelving sides, and secured from the inclination of the mountain by the soundest masonry. Even now im- mense masses of stone are strewn around, and about half-way through the pass some of prodigious size, ex- * From near Gorphwysfa two rivulets descend, one of which falls into the sea at Carnarvon after passing through the Llanberis pools, and the other, running through the lakes of Gwynant and Dinas, enters the ocean by Tremadoc. PASS OF LLANBER1S. 233 hibiting the most eccentric forms and fantastic outlines, meet the eye in every direction. Within the gloomy shade of this wild glen are strange and deepened hol- lows, flanked by basaltic columns, as if some giant hand had been at work to form a dwelling-place suited in architecture to the sublime and savage nature of the scene. Not a tree interposes to soften down the appal- ling features of this dreary waste, and only a few occa- sional patches of verdure, as though desolate and forsaken, show themselves near the course of the noisy stream which accompanies, and now and then crosses, the road along the bottom of the ravine, between the frowning cliffs of Crib Goch and the Glyder Fawr. The lower part of the pass is the grandest, as from the declination of the road the mountains become thus apparently higher, and the scene consequently more gloomy and terrific. A traveller in exploring this pass, before the recent improvement in the road, has recorded in the most graphic manner this description of it : " Occasionally gusts of wind, which now roared around us, swept away the pitchy cloud, that involved particular spots of the mountain, and discovered immediately below us, huge rocks, abrupt precipices, and profound hollows, exciting emotions of astonishment and awe in the mind, which the eye, darting down an immense descent of vacuity and horror, conveyed to it under the dreadful image of inevitable destruction." Camden quaintly says " These mountains may be truly called the British Alps ; for besides that they are the highest in the whole island, they are, like the Alps, bespread with broken crags on every side, all surround- ing one, which, towering in the centre, far above the rest, 234 PASS OF LLANBERIS. lifts its head so loftily, as if it meant not only to threaten, but to thrust it into the sky." The village of Llanberis, the name of which is derived from Saint Peris,* who lived in the sixth century, lies near the head of the upper lake in a secluded situation, consisting of a few humble dwellings, and having no object of particular interest to detain the traveller's atten- tion. Its church is of the most primitive character, with only one pew in the interior of the building when I visited it, and the mortuary inscriptions are rudely carved on small slates. A walk of a few minutes along the shore of the upper lake brought me to the Victoria Hotel, an extensive building erected by Mr. Asheton Smith, the proprietor of the neighbouring slate-quarries, who employs nearly two thousand men in working them. After I had despatched a hearty meal, I hastened to explore the interesting objects around this extraordinary place the waterfall, the tower, and the lakes. Within half a mile of the hotel, almost in a direct line across the road, and bearing to the right over a rustic slate bridge, I entered the mountain hollow of Cwm Brwy- nog, so named from the stream that passes through it. In this deep glen, crowned nearly on all sides with wild wooded rocks, the dashing cataract of Caunant Mawr, or the Great Chasm, suddenly bursts upon the view. It is not seen to advantage except after heavy rains, when it rushes over three projections measuring a descent of sixty feet, down rude jagged rocks into a * Llanberis is pronounced Chlanberis, the II not being sounded as thl, but with the guttural ch followed by I, as chlan ; and the same refers to Llangollen, cMangochlen ; Llanrwst, cldanroost ; and Llyn, cklin, a pool or lake. LAKES OF LLANBERIS. 235 terrific abyss, and from thence rolls foaming over the broad embedded strata into the vale below, swelling the waters of its romantic lakes. The roar of its precipi- tous fall the flashing of its waters in the bright beam of a noon-day sun the rising of its light foam glowing with prismatic colours and the sequestered aspect of the spot in the very gorge of the glen, presented a scene that had in it something inconceivably wild, picturesque, and beautiful. The two LAKES OP LLANBERIS are of considerable extent, and are connected by the river Seiont, which passes through them. The upper one, sometimes called Llyn Peris, is about a mile in length and half a mile in breadth; the other, Llyn Padern, named after the founder of the ruined castle hard by, is much longer, but not so wide. They are of great depth, descending in some parts one hundred and forty yards, and are reported formerly to have had abundance of red and golden char, and other fish ; but these tenants of the waters have nearly disappeared, and to the angler the pools now afford little sport, from the injurious effect produced on them by the neighbouring copper-works. These lakes have not the picturesque character belonging to Bala, Grwynant, and many other Welsh pools, from the absence of the trees that adorn their banks; but the boldness and grandeur of the mountains on either side, which consist of bald, weather- beaten, eccentric rocks, create a scene unmatched for vastness and sublimity throughout the island. On a projecting eminence at the foot of the upper lake, stand the mouldering ruins of DOLBADERN TOWER, one of the few structures the remains of which are still 236 DOLBADERN TOWER. left in the narrow passes of the hills. Dolbadern was the central fortress commanding the mountain-passes into Anglesey, and strengthened the defences which the Snowdonian region afforded in the valiant and desperate struggles for national liberty. It is built in a circular form, with hard laminated stone and slate, strongly cemented with mortar ; and from its structure seems to justify the theory of Mr. Rowland as to the early eastern origin of all British fortresses. The inner diameter measures twenty-six feet, its height is between eighty and ninety, and the thickness of its walls nearly eight. It appears to have had three stories, besides the vaulted basement used as a dungeon ; and the broken steps by which I ascended showed that the communica- tion was by a spiral staircase. That it stood many an attack, the tumulus of loose stones at the foot of the lower lake, and other remains of ancient fortifi- cations, offer a sufficient proof. It was accessible only by a single causeway. By whom it was founded, or at what period, must still remain a subject of conjecture. Mr. Pennant considers it the work of some Welsh prince, from whom, with the surround- ing ground, it took its name : its erection, in this case, may be referred to the eighth or ninth cen- tury. The seat of feudal violence or revenge, a succession of hapless victims immured within its dun- geon often filled the adjacent hills and valleys with cries of distress. Among these, Prince Owen, called Owen Goch, the Bed, was held captive by his brother Llewelyn, against whom he had combined with his younger brother. They were defeated in a sanguinary conflict, and Owen paid the penalty of twenty years' DOLBADERN TOWER. 237 solitary captivity in this tower. In the wars of Glen- dower it frequently changed masters, being always con- sidered one of the master-keys into the interior of Snowdonia. Its ruins are now spread over the entire summit of the bold projecting rock, exposing to view the massy foundations of the exterior buildings and outworks, and the site of its once terrific donjon. Moonlight came, and I beheld a prospect mirrored in the silvery waters softer and more serenely fair than can be seen in the glare of day. Vaster from their dimness, on both sides rose the rocky hills on which the moon shed a passing radiance, while a flood of liquid light rested on the bosom of the murmuring waters at my feet. The sound of the river pouring from lake to lake alone fell on the ear. But few objects now recalled ideas of the feudal war and ferocity which once steeped these peaceful valleys in blood; the cattle fed fearlessly by the water-side, and two old horses, as if in derision of those chivalrous times, and the proud caparisoned steeds which flew to conquest or the chase, were quietly resting under the very walls of the once dreaded donjon tower of Dolbadern. The gloomy wildness of the distant view the dark, stern aspect of the rocks above the solitary tower in the pass of the vale the mists rising over the lakes and hollows in the still evening light, now offered a marked contrast to the vast and mingled splendours I had witnessed from the heights above, and presented images as strikingly novel as they were interesting. The road circulating round the immediate area of Snowdon may be estimated at about twenty-six miles, and includes the minor hills and eminences known by 238 SNOWDONIA. the names of the Lliwedd, Crib Goch, Clawdd Coch, and some others, which form the basement and support of the superior heights Y Wyddfa and Crib-y-ddysgl. The district, however, generally known to tourists by the comprehensive title of SNOWDONIA, embraces so large a portion of Carnarvonshire, that a rapid sketch of its mountains, lakes, rivers, and military stations, in- cluding those also more remotely connected with this romantic and picturesque portion of the county, becomes necessary. Rising gradually and majestically from its northern rock-girt base, Snowdonia embraces within its limits a distinct region of subject hills, valleys, and lakes, stretching across the county in one vast chain from sea to sea. It was formerly considered, in fact, to comprise within itself a little kingdom ; the barons of Snowdon were the most potent lords of the soil, and the seignory of its bold domain was always the most severely con- tested and the last resigned. On these British Alps, as they have been called, Edward the First celebrated his final triumph over the ill-fated Llewelyn in festivals and hunting-matches, and assembled the chivalry of Europe to do their devoirs to the Queen of Beauty, in jousts and tournaments upon the plains which it overlooks. This same monarch often made it his summer residence; it was chosen as the congress of the native princes, and of the bardic contests, and palaces and hunting-seats animated its wooded and well-peopled eminences. Now a comparatively barren wilderness of heights spreads before the eye ; naked massy ridges still rear their natural barrier against the skies, but most of the mili- tary stations, castles, and towers, which made them SNOWDONIA. 239 formidable, and all the seats of pleasure and diversion, are seen no more.* Improved by art, this position required only a power- ful navy to have maintained the independence of the Britons from those fierce marauding nations which attacked it incessantly. The passes into the country were defended by the strongholds of Deganwy on the Conway, of Caerhun on the Pass of Bwlch y ddeufaen, the castles of Aber and Dolwyddelan, the strong forts in Nant Frangon, in Nant Peris, Cedwm in Nant Tal y Llyn, and the castles of Harlech and Criccaeth to secure the open sands of Traeth Mawr. There were towers also at Casail Gyfarch, Dolbenmaen, besides military posts and fortifications in the more exposed positions of the country. The Snowdonian range extends from the sea-washed heights of Penmaen Mawr in a succession of lofty hills westerly to the triple-headed Reifell, which borders upon the Bay of Carnarvon ; and branching southerly, the range includes Moel Hebog, and Mynydd y Gor- llwyn, near Tremadoc. Its highest peak towers about three thousand six hundred feet above the ocean. The Carnedds, called Llewelyn and David, approach next in height ; Moel Siabod the third : and, however inferior to the Alps to the stupendous Andes to the Cordil- leras, and the Himalaya of other hemispheres, these British Alps partake sufficiently of the magnificent to impress the beholder with feelings of awe and admira- * The ancient and extensive forest of Snowdon was felled by the Saxon monarchs. In the reign of Henry VIII., the civil list was charged with the sum of 11. 8s., being the " Annual fee of the chief forester of Snowdon." 240 SNOWDONIA. tion. If not on the largest scale, they can yet boast almost every variety of the noblest characteristics of mountain scenery even to the terrible. In their darker hour, when the storm is up, when the torrent pours its hoarser music with the autumnal blasts, and the near voice of the thunder, and the deep rolling masses of mist, convey the impression of some region seated among the clouds, no traveller of other lands will pronounce Snowdon destitute of images at once eminently beautiful and sublime. The rivers of Carnarvonshire although numerous are not of considerable breadth or length, and most of them run from the mountains on which they rise to the sea, owing to the peninsular form of the county. The principal are the Conway, which has the most extended course, and, taken altogether, is perhaps the most pic- turesque, for its descent is rapid and frequently broken ; it flows from Llyn Conway, and is swelled by the waters of numerous streams, including the Machno, the Lledr, and the Llugwy, and joins the ocean near Conway. The Glaslyn rises on the eastern side of Snowdon, and carries its course through lakes Gwynant and Dinas before it receives the tributary waters of the Colwyn at Beddgelert, and then running southerly enters the sea by the extensive sands called Traeth Mawr. The Gwrfai and the Seiont have their sources on the west- ern side of Snowdon, and fall into the Menai Straits; the former flowing through Llyn Cwellyn, and the lat- ter through the Llanberis pools. The Llyftri rises from boggy land by Drws y Coed, and passing through the lakes of Nantlle, falls into Carnarvon Bay. The Ogwen, issuing from Lake Ogwen, winds through the sterile SNOWDONIA. 241 region of Nant Frangon, and enters the sea near Penrhyn Castle. There are about fifty lakes in Carnarvonshire, the majority of which are not above half a mile in circum- ference, but many vary from one mile to three. The most romantic, and consequently the objects of more frequent research, are Llyn Ogwen, at the head of Nant Frangon; Llyn Idwal, near the Trifaen Moun- tain ; Llyn Gwynant and Llyn y Ddinas, on the road between Capel Curig and Beddgelert; the two seques- tered lakes of Nantlle, which lie in a picturesque vale westward of Llyn Cwellyn ; the Llanberis lakes ; the Llyn y Gader and Llyn Cwellyn on the road between Beddgelert and Carnarvon. Mr. Pennant says, "The quantity of water which flows from the lakes of Snow- donia is very considerable ; so much, that I doubt not but collectively they would exceed the waters of the Thames, before it meets the flux of the ocean." On one occasion, while staying at the Victoria Hotel, I determined to commence the ascent of Snowdon at such an early hour as would afford me the prospect of a glorious sunrise from the top of that lofty mountain. For this purpose I engaged a guide, whom I ordered to be in readiness the following morning, and at the ap- pointed time, after some hasty refreshment, we started on our way before daybreak, taking care to provide the edibles, ycleped brandy and biscuits, necessary for a day's sojourn upon the hills. After a wearisome walk we reached the stone-work on the highest point, but only to meet with disappoint- ment, for thick mists invested the pinnacle of Y Wyddfa, and the sun rose in murky gloom. The cold was 242 SNOWDONIA. intense, and I was almost disposed to beat a quick re- treat from this comfortless situation, but my companion prevailed on me to remain, assuring me, from his long experience, that the morning might yet prove to be remarkably fine. He was correct in his prognostica- tion, and a day of wonderful revelations rewarded me for this exercise of patience. After waiting for nearly two hours, the heavy clouds moved forward in tempestuous eddies, and for a few minutes the scene was without any parallel for its novel and sublime character. The objects immediately sur- rounding me, and the summits of the loftier hills, ap- peared to roll with the surge of the sweeping and dis- persing fogs. As they slowly debouched, column after column, the horizon began to clear, and the splendid scenery below disclosed itself more distinctly. The sun breaking forth from his pavilion of clouds illuminated the mural steeps of the Lliwedd, and shed a sudden radiance over the lakes and vales below. The panoramic views presently became more grand and extensive. Far as the eye could reach, a vision of wondrous power and beauty unfolded itself, awakening new thoughts and feelings in the soul, which trembled while it exulted in tracing the startling and majestic characters stamped by an Omnipotent hand upon these his glorious works. The atmosphere became perfectly clear; the day, magnificently beautiful, displayed the most distant objects to the far-oif horizon of the sea, in the most brilliant and varied illuminations. The red veins of Crib Goch reflected back a stream of sanguine rays as quick and fierce as those which glittered upon his ridge. The singular and fantastic forms of these SNOWDONIA. 243 rocky formations, either primitive or time-worn, pin- nacled or projecting, running off in bold escarpments, or shelving into sheet-like floors of granite sometimes yawning in chasms too deep for the light of summer sun to reach, or rounded into amphitheatres that might have formed the council-hall of a race of giants gleaming in their hues of grey, green, and purple, lying in ribbon streaks, or mingling in rich combination all, all, lay immediately around me. The loftiest points of England, Scotland, and Ireland, were not merely sha- dowed forth, but were seen ; while the Isle of Man, sparkling with ocean lights, the Menai, running like a silver thread in a web of verdure, and Anglesey, with her hills and coasts, appeared to be spread like a map before the eye. The impression was that of a world of solitude stretching out in a succession of pro- spects, fading into distant softening vistas, as agreeable to the eye as to the imagination, and looking like the val sans retour of fairy -land. The descent from Snowdon into the vale of Llanberis offers many picturesque views, but they are not so in- teresting or majestic' as those on the side of Capel Curig or Beddgelert. A great part of the way is monotonous; but this, in some degree, served to heighten the plea- sure of reaching in safety the delightful scene around old Dolbadern Tower, which had presented itself under many aspects, with varied effects, from different points upon the hills. R 2 CHAPTER XIV. LLANBERIS TO BEDDGELERT ASCENT OF SNOWDON FROM BEDDGELERT NANTLLE TREMADOC TAN Y BWLCH. Ye crags and peaks, I'm with you once again ! O sacred forms, how proud you look ! How high you lift your heads into the sky ! How huge you are ! how mighty and how free ! How do you look, for all your bared brows, More gorgeously majestical than kings Whose loaded coronets exhaust the mine ! Ye are the things that tower, that shine whose smile Makes glad whose frown is terrible whose forms, Robed or unrobed, do all the impress wear Of awe divine whose subject never kneels In mockery, because it is your boast To keep him free. SHERIDAN KNOWLES. THE road from Llanberis to the secluded scenery around Beddgelert presented a continued succession of sublime and picturesque views. Retracing my former walk through the Pass, and as far as Pen y Gwryd, fresh vistas of hills, and vales, and waters, opened in all their variety upon the eye as I advanced. Here and there the broad black shadow of some rock threw its sombre hues upon my path ; while the flashing cataract, or the glittering spar- veins, glowing in the sun, offered in other parts as marked a contrast and relief. Soon I entered the charming and picturesque valley LLANBERIS TO BEDDGELERT. 245 called Nant Gwynant, about six miles in length, through a portion of which the road is carried by a cutting along the eastern side, forming part of the base of the hills connected with Moel Siabod. Formerly the rich, abun- dant woods, the sparkling streams, and all the happiest interchange of the most varied mountain scenery, gave it the distinctive title of the Forest of Snowdon. And well, at that moment as I marked the thousand beau- ties spread around me in the mellow autumnal tints, the softened lights of the purple peaks, and the serene sky, did it seem to deserve the name, and to awaken those touching associations which it is difficult, amidst scenes long deserted and again revisited, not to indulge. Before me, in the distance to the left, lay the pic- turesque old bridge, with its noisy weir and sweeping stream, appearing, at the moment, no unapt emblem of the vain turmoil, the swift passing shadows of mortal emptiness and pride. It was here that the union of stream, and lake, and fall, so peculiarly the features of the Carnarvon hills, most struck my mind, giving that nameless charm to a solitary ramble which more than compensates for the loss of companionship, or the most arduous pedestrian toil. The fresh breath of morning fanned my brow some new beauty continually broke upon the eye the first red leaves blown across my path, or whirling in eddies down the currents, told the evening of the year was nigh ; and the blue mists on the distant hills the beautifully variegated foliage of the trees, the fragrant dew yet glittering on leaf and flower, with the early matin song of birds, the wind whistling through the mountain hollows, and the far-off sound of the cataract, 246 LLYN GWYNANT. all combined to inspire a freshness and elasticity of feeling which only the morning traveller can intensely enjoy. Lake Gwynant is about a mile in length, and at its upper end nearly half that measure in breadth. About its margin are green pastures, with sufficient trees and foliage to create a scene on which Solitude and Beauty have impressed their deepest features, and over which, from the surrounding rocks, Wildness and Grandeur frown with an aspect almost terrible. High as my expectations had been, they were more than realized. Nant Gwynant and its lake seemed well denominated the Vale of Waters, the most lovely of all Snowdon, comprehending as it does within itself some one or other charm peculiar to all the Cambrian vales. The majestic calm and beauty of the hills appeared mirrored in the waters at their feet, which glowed with mellow radiance ; while afar off the music of the flashing falls alone broke on the deep solitude and silence. Innu- merable variegated hues, caught from the serene reful- gent skies, contrasted with the dusky shadows of the rocks, painting every object, now bright, half hidden, or deeply obscured, some changing feature continually surprising the eye. Proceeding onwards near the border of the clear stream which joins Llyn Gwynant with the waters of Llyn Dinas, I reached that point where the road crosses the Gwynant, which afterwards flows to the left. It is from this spot that the regal mountain may be seen on the right, towering beyond the intervening rocks ; and soon afterwards I approached the pleasant domain of Plas Gwynant, with its screen of waving woods, and its BEDDGELERT. 247 green spreading lawn approaching nearly to the water's edge. Half a mile beyond this place is Llyn Dinas it- self, with its own scenes of beauty and interest, as deeply shadowed among the towering hills as Lake Gwynant. The road runs along the northern shore of Llyn Dinas for about a mile, and then nearing the vicinity of Beddgelert, the traveller will observe on his right the remarkable rock of Dinas Emrys, insulated and wooded, one of those monuments which carries the thoughts back to the days of genuine British fable and romance. Its height, its steepness, and the large stone ramparts yet visible, still point it out as the retreat of the feeble Vortigern, who, shrinking from the daring task which his treachery had planned, vainly hoped to screen him- self from its consequences. The no less singular rock-girt mass adjoining to it, and known as the Groves or Caves of the Magicians, offers a curious subject for speculation, which may be pleasantly indulged by perusing some of our early British chronicles. A portion of these quaint narra- tives, appertaining to the origin and uses of these reli- gious abodes, with the gigantic labours and supersti- tions of our forefathers, possesses both imaginative and historical interest, and no slight fund of anecdote and amusement. Tradition records that King Vortigern, or his successor, bestowed the rocky hummock upon the favourite soothsayer whose name it bears. By the Welsh it is called Merddin Emrys ; and on its summit, we are assured that the learned astrologer expounded the secret wisdom of the skies to the trembling mon- arch : and his exploits may still be read, to the no 248 BEDDGELERT. small gratification of lay and clergy, in the curious notes upon Drayton by the no less learned Selden. And thus it is said or sung : " Here prophetic Merlin sate, when to the British king, The changes long to come auspiciously he told ; And from the top of Brith, so high and wondrous steep, Where Dinas Emrys stood, showed where the serpents fought The white that tore the red, from whence the prophet wrought The Britons' sad decay then shortly to ensue." As I drew nigh the little hamlet of Beddgelert, and passed the weir by its old flour-mill, I was struck with the sublime aspect of the mountain scenery particularly of Craig Llan, which rose almost perpen- dicularly on the left, and of Moel Hebog, which towered behind the inn. The expanding hills cast a broad and deep shadow across my path, while rock and stream, assuming a thousand varied and brilliant colours, told me that I was once more amidst the favourite scenes of my boyhood ; and Beddgelert revisited, inspired a feel- ing of tranquil delight not inferior to that with which it was at first beheld. Absence, and long-continued residence in cities, when they do not quite obliterate younger emotions, and the early love of nature and rural life, give assuredly a fresh zest to their charms. The pleasant site of Beddgelert, in the heart of these bold romantic hills its smooth green meadows and pleasant streams, its sylvan beauty, and the rich con- trast of the scenes by which it is surrounded, with its many varied objects of interest sufficient to amuse every taste came more fresh upon the mind and the eye after the agreeable excitement of my recent wan- BEDDGELEBT. 249 derings. It was here, after many days of long and toil- some ramble among the Carnarvonshire hills, I was prepared truly to enjoy a brief repose, although I never felt less weary than when I wound my way along the river to the spot where the three valleys meet. It had the same serene and quiet pastoral look as when I visited it years before ; and it was with renewed pleasure that I watched the murmuring confluence of the Gwynant and the Colwyn; and the river Glaslyn, formed by these streams, afterwards flowing through scenery highly romantic, beyond the wild falls and rocky breaks which surround Pont Aber-Glaslyn. The afternoon of my arrival at Beddgelert was de- voted to the enjoyment of its hospitable cheer with a few fellow-pedestrians I there met, to the luxury of repose, and the pleasure of unexpectedly spending it with a companion of my school days. We had a de- lightful little banquet, at which social wit and good humour presided, with that pleasant idleness one most enjoys after laborious toil, whether physical or intel- lectual. I felt the force of Professor Wilson's remark, when I met him in his angling days at Ambleside, " that to relish these moments of reaction with true zest, one must be out at least three days among the upper hills, and get a good sprinkling of the heavens." The well-remembered hours I there spent in his fasci- nating society where fishing, boating, and rambling were all his delights, though they ill disguised the repressed fires of eloquent genius and true poetry which glowed beneath the surface ; and with Mr. Wordsworth, then in his little cottage on the banks of Grassmere, 250 BEDDGELERT. above five and twenty years ago, came vividly back to mind as I sat with my old friend and recent pedestrian acquaintance in the comfortable inn at Beddgelert. Nothing was wanting to complete the charm of the hour, and it is accordingly marked in the grand archives of the hotel deposited, of course, with the excellent host of the " Goat," as one of the whitest days of my Welsh wanderings. And it deserves to be among the pleasantest of my recollections, for the hotel is assu- redly one of the most courteous and obliging, as well as the neatest in Cambria. To estimate, however, at the full value its excellent accommodations, the gratifying attentions of the good-humoured host and the exquisite flavour of his viands, the stranger should take a walk of some fifteen miles over the hills before dinner. He will then find the appliances and embellishments of the intelligent landlord, the most judicious and elegant in the world, and, after his heroic pedestrianism, he will partake of the " otium cum dignitate," Anglice, a good table, the best wine and attendance, with the best grace imaginable. How active exercise improves the flavour of fresh-stream trout, of mountain mutton, and the pleasure of a siesta and a cigar beneath the shade of trees beside the murmuring Glaslyn, it were needless to relate ! The views immediately around Beddgelert, though described by successive travellers as admirably adapted to inspire religious meditation by the bleak, " sombre character of the mountains, whispering groves, and tumbling waters," were far from producing similar im- pressions on my mind ; in part, perhaps, owing to the conversation of my friend, and a glorious sunset, which BEDDGELEKT. 251 threw an enlivening splendour on every object far and near. So little was I " in the mood," that I put off my visit to the faithful Gelert's grave, and to the little village church, till the ensuing morning, and took my way towards the rude, picturesque-looking mill, with its noisy stream and rock-strewn bed. Its modern use and antique appearance seem sufficiently at variance ; but its lonely site, its rustic air, the dashing of its waters, with the whole scene around and beyond, are such as to arrest the eye of the painter. Though many of the cloud-capped rocks towering above no longer wear the noble mantle of their patriarchal oaks, they give a wildness and grandeur to the picture, especially when beheld from an eminence above the village, which no eye can behold with indifference. The church at Beddgelert is erected on the site of an ancient Priory of Augustine Monks. These holy fathers, it appears, belonged to that class of religieuse assu- redly the most sociable called Gilbertines, and con- sisted of persons of both sexes, who resided under the same roof, divided, however, by a wall ; and there is a piece of ground, not far from the spot, which still goes by the name of Nun's Meadow. Part of the arches and clustered columns which supported the nave of the Priory are still visible in the wall of the church, and outside are remains of ancient building which show that the Priory was one of considerable extent. Being desirous of obtaining admission to the interior, I looked round and observed a diminutive figure with peculiar eyes looking intently at me, and making strong signs for me to desist in trying to unfasten the gate. He had a large key at his girdle, to which he pointed 252 BEDDGELERT. significantly, and put his hand upon his pocket with a broad grin, which said, plainer than words, here is the true sesime, the only legitimate way of entrance, and brandished the church key with an air of exultation, as if in all the joyous foretaste of clutching a sexton's fee. But I had almost as well have spared my pains and my pocket ; for the interior of this loftiest church of Siiow- donia, as Mr. Pennant designated it, has nothing half so conspicuous as the names of some rich pew proprietors oftentimes repeated, with a large tablet commemorat- ing their Christian generosity in apportioning the re- maining space to the use of the poor. On the east side the window, consisting of three narrow lancet openings, gives the church an antique air; the font is of blue stone of very rude character, and undoubtedly of early origin. Two eminent bards were interred in Beddge- lert* Church, Rhys Goch Eryri and Dafydd Nanmor, who both flourished in the fifteenth century. We are informed by Rymer, that it was originally founded by Llewelyn, to commemorate the preservation of his son, and as some atonement for slaying his preserver (the faithful grayhound), from whose name and tomb, tradi- tion assures us, the village received its name. How beautifully the entire incidents to which it refers the noble picture of the chase the contrast of feelings the uncontrollable rage of the father against the faith- ful dog the discovery and the grief of Llewelyn have been illustrated by Mr. Spencer in his admirable ballad I need not here remind the reader. My walks among the Snowdon hills form part of the * Beddgelert is pronounced Betltgelert, the dd always being sounded as th in the words the, though, that. BEDDGELERT. 253 most agreeable recollections of my life. Although years had elapsed since I last beheld the scenes amidst which I now wandered, the impression on my imagina- tion was as pleasing and exciting as it had ever been. The love of coast and mountain scenery imbibed during an early period of my boyhood, required not, in ma- turer years, the spell of historical association, or of yet wilder tradition, to give force to the sentiment ; and if I was then an enthusiast for pedestrian rambles, I was still as eager to pursue them for the more invigorating delight they afforded me, and the energy of mind and frame which, after a slight seasoning, I invariably found them to impart. I had this time twice traversed the greater mountains of this picturesque region, and my desire of exploring fresh paths and trying longer excur- sions was unabated, till I began to think as lightly of accomplishing twenty or thirty miles before evening as I had, at one period, thought of four or five. The cordial meeting to which I have before alluded, not only called up in my companion and myself the charm from memories richly stored with tales of past travel, but led to a community of purpose for the brief future in which we might walk in brotherhood toge- ther. We therefore determined to climb the mountain in company ; and I was the more disposed to do so, because the ascent from this place is one of great interest. It was in the prime of a fine forenoon that we started from our hospitium for the summit of Snow- don, by the route usually called the Beddgelert ascent, which takes the high road towards Carnarvon for three miles, and then turns to the right near an immense stone known by the name of Pitt's Head, from its fancied 254 SNOWDON. resemblance to the profile of that statesman. We fol- lowed the winding path to the farmyard at Ffridd, and then taking the beaten track, went leisurely along till we came to a sheepfold not far from the Lechog. Here, amid the lone majesty of nature, we paused for breath, and remained for a time in the contemplation of the surrounding scene, wild, varied, and fearful. Having gathered refreshment from our rest, we gradually laboured up the steep ascent, and occasionally turning to take a retrospect of our progress, experienced new pleasure from the increasing variety and extent of the prospects, the strange contrasts formed by bare rocks and heathy valleys, and the sudden harmonies and shifting effects which the different objects, as they caught the light or were flung into shadow, continually presented; while the higher parts of the surrounding hills, and the monarch of this mountain realm himself, were occasionally hid from sight, bathed in thick clouds and vapours. In a short time, however, we reached the narrow path, on that portion of the mountain called Clawdd-coch (the red ridge), where the precipitous rock overlooks Cwm y clogwyn, the hollow which includes the waters of Llyn Coch,* Llyn y Nadroedd, Llyn Glas, and Llyn Ffynnon y Gwas. Kneeling on a mossy bank, we ran down in our vision the path by which we had ascended, and viewed below us the valley enlivened by the Gwrfai and the lakes Cwellyn and Gader, from whose shores rise the eminences of Craig Goch and Mynydd Mawr, between which mountains lie the romantic valley and * The red lake ; the lake of the snakes ; the blue lake ; the lake of the fountain. SNOWDON. 255 lakes of Nantlle, and beyond them the expanding waters of Carnarvon Bay. To the north lay the town and castle of Carnarvon, the Menai Straits, the whole island of Anglesey, and the sea surrounding it ; while southerly the scene included the mountains of Moelwyn, Rhiniog Fawr, and Cader Idris, and the Merionethshire coast as far as Towyn. The gloomy and barren aspect of the hills is some- times relieved by the variety of hues produced by mi- neral formations ; and Snowdon is rich in the number and beauty of its heaths and flowers, affording a plea- sant field for botanical research. Few regions will be found to supply more curious and interesting specimens for investigation to the adventurous naturalist ; and he may find a sure source of unfailing pleasure in the rare productions which are to be found about the higher lakes and hills. Not a few, indeed, are to be met with in no other district of Britain ; and, most probably, ere yet despoiled of his floral and forest honours, Snowdon boasted more beautiful and varied, as well as more numerous, specimens of the different tribes of vegetable nature. The conspicuous crown of all our toil the Wyddfa now rose in grandeur before us, and beyond it the ser- rated ridge of Crib* y ddysgl, or the Dripping Stone, in strong relief with the broad spreading Lliwedd, which lay on our right. The external barrier of Y Clawdd, terminating in lofty ridges, jagged and narrow, filled * Crib is the comb of the rock : hence, when applied to mountain scenery, it means a lofty serrated ridge. " High hills as the hills of Basan," says the Psalmist ; the Welsh version has it " Mynyddoedd cribog fel mynydd Basan." 256 SNOWDON. up the outline of the stupendous hills I had traversed in three different ascents, but with increasing delight and wonder. The weather, cold and gusty for the season, gave fresh enchantment to the varying aspect of the clouds and shadows, especially of the upland lakes and valleys, rising in a succession of little regions within regions, resting calm and beautiful in the lap of the mighty hills. From the towering precipice I beheld, through the deep hollows and ravines, a series of panoramic beauties, hills crowning hills, and vales and lakes upon different levels most picturesquely connected with each other. Once again I was on the summit of Snowdon ! I stood on the peak called the Conspicuous, where I long tarried to behold the surrounding scenes under the changing aspects which the day might afford. From this pinnacle I saw the heavy mists rolling in volumes along the sides and summits of the hills, and at times sweeping round and below us, producing the appearance of our being enveloped in clouds. The prospect at that moment was bleak and wild in the extreme; and the sudden gusts, rushing at intervals through the glens and hollows, produced a strange unearthly sound, mingling with the distant blasting of the mines, and the cry of the raven wheeling above our heads. Screening myself from the wind, I took from my wallet a volume of Buckets delightful work on the Beauties, Harmonies, and Sublimities of Nature, and turning to the chapter on mountains, read his elegant but brief account of a visit to Snowdon, from which I extract the following : " After climbing over masses of crags and rocks, we SNOWDON. 257 ascended the peak of Snowdon, the height of which is 3,571 feet above the level of the Irish Sea. Arrived at its summit, a scene presented itself magnificent beyond the powers of language ! Indeed language is indigent and impotent, when it would presume to sketch scenes on which the great Eternal has placed his matchless finger with delight. Faint are thy broad and deep delineations, immortal Salvator Rosa ! Powerless and feeble are your inspirations, genius of Thomson, Virgil, and Lucretius ! * " From this point are seen more than five and twenty lakes. Seated on one of the crags, it was long before the eye, unaccustomed to measure such elevations, could accommodate itself to scenes so admirable : the whole appearing as if there had been a war of the elements ; and as if we were the only inhabitants of the globe permitted to contemplate the ruins of the world. Bocks and mountains, which, when observed from below, bear all the evidences of sublimity, when viewed from the summit of Snowdon, are blended with others as dark, * " Petrarch had long wished to climb the summit of Mount Venoux, a mountain presenting a wider range of prospect than any among the Alps or Pyrenees. With much difficulty he ascended. Arrived at its summit, the scene presented to his sight was unequalled ! After taking a long view of the various objects which lay stretched below, he took from his pocket a volume of St. Augustine's Confessions, and opening the leaves at random, the first period that caught his eye was the following passage : ' Men travel far to climb high mountains ; to observe the majesty of the ocean ; to trace the sources of rivers ; but they neglect themselves. ' Instantly applying the passage to himself, Petrarch closed the book ; and falling into profound meditation, ' If/ thought he, ' I have undergone so much labour, in climbing this moun- tain, that my body might be nearer to Heaven, what ought I not to do, in order that my soul may be received in its immortal regions.'" 258 SNOWDON. as rugged, and as elevated as themselves ; the whole resembling the swellings of an agitated ocean." " The extent of this prospect appears almost unlimited. The four kingdoms are seen at once ; Wales, England, Scotland, and Ireland ! forming the finest panorama the empire can boast. The circle begins with the mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland; those of Ingleborough and Penygent, in the county of York, and the hills of Lancashire follow ; then are observed the counties of Chester, Flint, and Denbigh, and a portion of Montgomeryshire. Nearly the whole of Merioneth succeeds ; and, drawing a line with the eye along the diameter of the circle, we take in those regions stretching from the triple crown of Cader Idris to the sterile crags of Carnedds David and Llewelyn. Snowdon, rising in the centre, appears as if he could touch the south with his right hand, and the north with his left." In the light of a splendid sunset which now began to illumine all the heights, the nearmost hills and valleys glowed with softer and warmer colours ; the numerous lakes and streams spread at our feet, losing the dull, black hues reflected from the impending rocks, where suffused with the departing radiance poured upon the summits, a deeper and fresher verdure seemed to clothe vale and glen, and, in the dying glory of the sun-light, the sea beyond shone red and dazzling like a mirrored fire. The gradual twilight brought a succession of no less interesting changes of scenic beauty, and convinced me, that to know Snowdon the traveller ought to remain upon its hills considerably longer than is usually SNOWDONIA. 259 done. I had noticed a succession of visitors who arrived, as if making a morning call, and, like " shadows that come and go," seemed quite as eager to depart. But there was a pedestrian from the lochs of Scotland of a different character, to whom I related my morning's progress, and he observed, with enthusiasm, that in no part of his tour had he found greater enjoyment than in his walks through Wales.* We now began our descent, and making the best of our way back to Bedd- gelert, we reached the inn just before darkness enve- loped every surrounding object. It may serve as a guide to strangers to know, that the distance from Beddgelert to the summit of Snowdon is about six miles. When I had retired to rest, after the fatigues of this laborious day, I fell into a profound reverie, and again the successive marvels which I had witnessed passed in review before my mental eye. I pictured to myself SnowdomVs proud baronial domain, enriched and deco- rated as it had been in its ancient times, when it became the beloved resort of its native princes and the pride of its conquerors. I imagined it adorned with spreading groves wide and lovely gardens round palace and lady's bower the lordly castle-towers frowning afar the Hill of Council the assemblies of chiefs and bards the gay hunters clad in green and gold, with * In his recent ascents from different points, the writer had the pleasure of meeting on the summit of Snowdon several enlightened foreigners. Two German travellers and a young Frenchman were among the parties ; with strangers from Scotland, Ireland, and various other quarters. All seemed to feel the peculiar kind of interest to which the author alludes, and he acknowledges the pleasure he received from their society. s2 260 SNOWDONIA. the then victorious last of the Llewelyns at their head, his favourite hound bounding at his side, and the opening echoes among the distant hills. I saw him presiding at some solemn festival, surrounded by the chivalry of the land, such as took place in his magnifi- cent castle near Aber, which the painter has here attempted to depict; while the same aged bard who afterwards sang his dirge, was then commemorating his early exploits and the wassail-bowl circulated amidst the shouts of mirth, and the pledges of fidelity. And then the subject changed, I looked upon him disarrayed of his princely robes, with the loss of his dignity and sway, and Snowdon arose only in his- deserted majesty, " the crownless monarch of the scene \" Another shifting picture followed, and brought to light the beauty and magnificence which surrounded this regal mountain in the chivalrous day of the feudal Con- queror, with all the attributes of that peculiar gran- deur which appeared in those Norman castles lying around, the very ruins of which rivet and appal the eye. The visionary pictures of the night all passed away, one after another, like the "airy procession in the glass of Banquo, and left me in a state of delightful repose till the bright morning gleamed in at my window, and the harper's telyn, recalling Owain's sweet strain to " the Rising Sun/' awoke me to renewed consciousness. When Archbishop Baldwin made his itinerary through Wales, he found a minstrel in every ancient hall, and a harp was always preserved in the houses of all persons of respectability ; but in the present time it is almost unknown in South Wales, while at most of the inns in the northern part of the country, travellers have PONT ABERGLASLYN. 261 their hours of leisure enlivened by the national tunes of this land of music and song.* The old harper whom I had previously seen at Beddgelert was either superannuated or dead since my last visit, and the present minstrel is only a scion of the ancient bard, but with a vigour of touch and delicacy of taste that bids fair to make him a successful competitor at the next Esteiddfod. At the time I heard him he played many beautiful airs in the happiest style of execution. But it is the association with the surrounding sublime scenery that gives to the national minstrelsy of the Principality its peculiar charm; and the music of a Welsh harper in the romantic land of his forefathers, not only awakens and entertains the sense of pleasurable feeling that waits upon the notes of melody, but it is the voice that con- jures up facts and scenes in historical unison with the natural wonders around. It inspires emotions of ex- quisite delight, deeply imbued with lofty and tender sentiments, such as do not belong to the practised har- monies of the best performers at courts and concerts. At the distance of about one mile and a half from Beddgelert stands the magnificent pass between the mountains of Carnarvon and Merioneth, including Pont Aberglaslyn, which exhibits, perhaps, the most remarkable example of romantic scenery belonging to the northern part of Wales. On my way to the bridge, my attention was directed to the stone mentioned by Pennant, and known as the seat of the bard of whom * By the laws of Wales, a harp was one of the three things neces- sary to constitute a gentleman, that is, a freeman ; and no person could pretend to that title, unless he had one of these favourite instru- ments, and could play upon it. BUSBY'S Music AND MUSICIANS. 262 PONT ABERGLASLYN. I have before spoken, the poet and patriot Rhys Goch, contemporary with Owen Glendower. It is part of a wanderer's creed to put faith in traditions of this kind ; and I could easily picture to myself the gifted descen- dant of the house of Hafod pursuing his accustomed solitary walk towards this his beloved retreat, where, seated under the roof of heaven, surrounded by the stern majesty of Nature in her darkest, loneliest, or loveliest moods, he poured forth those bold, pathetic hymns which nerved his countrymen to deeds of honour and renown. The approach to Pont Aberglaslyn supplies all the materials of a most marvellous picture, rising, in some points of view, to the sublime and terrible. The road where the view first bursts upon the eye in all its varied and extraordinary features, by its bleak, barren aspect, overhung by huge precipices and broken rocks stretch- ing far into the distance, well prepares the mind for those impressions which, on whatever side approached, by day or by moonlight, as Bingley so enthusiastically describes it, never fails to call forth the admiration of the coldest traveller. All the milder features of land- scape are here lost amidst these rocky fabrics ; instead of the softer interchange of hill, and lake, and glen, the grandeur of the whole scene at once arrests and employs the imagination. The way through the pass, which, so late as Mr. Pennant's visit, was a mere horsepath, was a few years ago sufficiently widened for a double line of carriages, and has more recently been much improved. It runs along the base of the moun- tain, which has been blasted to a considerable extent, and is formed upon the solid granite, bounded on the PONT ABERGLASLYN. river side by a stone wall. The bridge is built from rock to rock, and produces an extraordinary effect in the scene of which the engraving on the opposite page conveys a faithful representation. There was formerly a salmon-leap at this place, which has been destroyed ; but the river still abounds with that fish and tribes of speckled trout, which afford excellent sport to the experienced angler. There is an old story relating to this spot, which, if true, (and who will dare to doubt it ?) shows that the shrewdness of a Welshman was more than a match for the crafty Prince of Darkness. Pont Aberglaslyn, or the bridge at the conflux of the Blue Pool, is sometimes rendered the Devil's Bridge, from the following circum- stance. The Evil One once proposed to the neighbour- ing inhabitants to build them a bridge across the pass on this condition, that he should take possession of the first who went over it for his trouble. The bargain was struck, and the bridge soon appeared in its place. The people insisted on a literal fulfilment of the contract, and dragging a dog to the spot, whipped him over the bridge, in satisfaction of his Infernal Majesty's claim. From the place whence I contemplated the chasm, rose craggy cliffs, beetling eight hundred feet in height, and huge rocks of most capricious forms, here bright, there flinging their shadows deep as night upon the black waters, which, plunging at first in flashing eddies, afterwards form a broad translucent torrent. The eye almost recoiled from the vast projecting precipice, which seemed to threaten destruction to the narrow ridge upon which I was then standing, and which is 264 BEDDGELERT. close to the brink of the flood. Not a feature of nature was wanting to complete the mournful charm of the hour and the spot. The gathering twilight giving broader masses to the rude rocks, soaring in succession above bolder cliffs, here piled tier upon tier, and again broken by the huge serpentine chasm, with the wild scene, the sounding cataract, the bright river, and the deep green glen stretched far below, recalled to mind some of the boldest Alpine scenery that ever inspired the genius of the painter, or the gloomy joy of the robber chief. On the hill towards Moel Hebog is a copper-mine ; and about the turnpike-gate and bridge, the traveller is generally beset by a tribe of little crystal- sellers, who, followed by the bare-footed representatives of the spinning and knitting interests, make an inces- sant clamour of " buy, buy, buy."* The road over the bridge leads direct to Tan y Bwlch over the mountains, and that running parallel with the stream to Tan y Bwlch through Tremadoc. Among other tourists, Mr. Wyndham justly extols the picturesque grandeur of the scenery around this unrivalled pass. Unfolding some new features at every step, the succession of strata assumes all shapes and colours, from the lightest grey to the darkest hues of brown and black, and often, when the sun emerges * At Beddgelert, as in many other parts of Wales, the children of the poor constantly beset strangers, offering to them crystals and specimens of spar, which the mines afford in great abundance ; and it is seldom that an English word can be got from them beyond " Yes," or "No," or " Coppar, Coppar ;" which latter word they use as they offer a specimen, and it might be supposed that it was copper ore they wished to part with ; but they mean, copper coin is what they want. SMITH'S SNOWDONIA. BEDDGELERT. 265 from behind his canopy of clouds, the variegated sum- mits are enriched with the most brilliant tints of light and gold. But to return to Beddgelert. No tourist who has a day unemployed should leave unvisited the almost unknown lakes and valley of Nantlle, lying nearly as secluded as the back settlements of America, and in- closing a population of not less than two thousand per- sons, who obtain a subsistence in the slate-quarries of the neighbourhood. The way to this romantic place is along the Carnar- von road for four miles, turning to the left at the turn- pike-gate by Pont Rhyddu, just half a mile beyond Llyn y Gader. There is no mistaking the path, which runs by the farm of Drws-y-Coed, and near the cele- brated lake Llyn y Dywarchen, noticed by Giraldus* in his tour through Wales in the twelfth century, for containing a floating island. Ranges of precipices, deeply channelled by the mountain storm, rear them- selves in all directions. On the right rises the high and precipitous Mynydd Mawr, wild and rugged in aspect, projecting its semilunar horns, and inclosing at its opposite base the lake of Llyn Cwellyn, whose clear waters in a peculiar manner reflect the pictured hea- vens, and register every passing cloud that skims its surface. The defile is marked by dreary wildness, with- out a single tree to soften the severe solitude of the * This humorous churchman asserted of Merionethshire, that it was " the roughest and most dreary part of Wales, for its mountains were both high and perpendicular, and in many places so grouped together, that shepherds talking or quarrelling on their tops, would scarcely in a whole day's journey come together." 266 NANTLLE. place. But when I had attained the head of the pass, the scene which presented itself was one of almost incomparable grandeur. The field of vision was the whole range of the vale, clasped on each side by files of rocks, but spreading out at the distant extremity over the descending land to Carnarvon Bay. Swelling ridges of green plantations bordered, and in many parts broke, the uniformity of the vale, and picture trees shaded the homesteads, and dotted the woodland scene. In the hollow lay two beautiful pools, divided from each other by a narrow isthmus, fed by the mountain stream that flows westward, which again urges its slender cur- rent through the farther end to carry its shining tribute to the sea. It was mid-day when I was on the spot, and the sun was shedding his golden rays on all sur- rounding objects, brightening up the sharp points of the mountains, throwing into bold relief their pinnacled summits, and flashing his broad beams upon the lakes and throughout all the vale. A continuous descent along a road of recent formation, and kept in travelling order, brought me into the midst of the busy popula- tion that throng this place like a beehive. I turned off from the road to the distance of about one hundred yards to examine the immense slate-quar- ries of Nantlle, and to witness the process of blasting the rock. The face of the chasm was quite perpendi- cular, and cut into stages of different heights, and the workmen were ascending and descending with incredi- ble activity by means of ropes, fastened to strong iron bolts at the head of the rock. A party was at work upon one of these ledges about thirty feet from the ground, drilling a hole to receive the gunpowder. All BEDDGELERT. 267 being now in readiness, the train was fired, and immense masses of slate were instantly dislodged, and precipitated to the lower stage, the noise of the explosion echoing on all sides, and reverberating for a considerable time amongst the mountains and hollows. The depth of the quarry was probably about two hundred feet, and at the bottom a drift was at that time being formed to relieve the upper part from the water, that by this means is directed into a well, from which it is pumped by a steam-engine. The next process which I observed, was that of split- ting the blocks of slate into their proper thicknesses, which was accomplished with astonishing ease and rapidity, the workmen dividing them into flat slabs for household and mortuary purposes, or into thin plates for architectural operations. The surrounding scene was full of activity and interest water-wheels, pumping- engines, inclined planes, railways, steam-engines, bridges and aqueducts meeting the eye at all points. Near this place Wilson made his celebrated view of Snowdon, which from this point is seen through the long vista of the pass rising with extraordinary grandeur, having the bare ridges of Crib y Ddysgl and Y Wyddfa on the right and left. I now retraced my steps to Beddgelert, along the high ground by Llyn y Gader, where it is said Edward, the ruthless conqueror of Wales, charmed by the beauty of the place, used to linger day after day, and from thence by a walk of continued descent, reached the comfortable hospitium of mine host of the Goat.* It ought not to be omitted, that in this parish * Subsequently I visited Nantlle from Carnarvon. The route is along the Pwllheli road, from which boundless views of the ocean are 268 BEDDGELERT. was born Mr. Pritchard, the author of The Welshman's Candle, a work intended to bring before his countrymen in an attractive form the facts and doctrines of the Holy Scriptures ; and whoever reads it will readily compre- hend how the simplicity, strength, and earnestness of the style should have made it popular in Wales. The reason for its composition he thus quaintly gives : " Because they take in sermons no delight, But idle songs with eagerness recite, I, for their good, have thus employed my time, And pxit the doctrines that ensue in rhyme. And this my book the Welshman's Candle named ; Because therein I've most sincerely aim'd Each ignorant and darkling mind to light, And taught him how to serve his God aright." There are many smaller pieces in the book, illustrative of Christian practice, amongst which is one on the " Duty of Clergymen/' that it would be well if all in holy orders, both in England and Wales, would literally " learn by heart." Midway between Beddgelert and Carnarvon, close by the side of the high road, about half a mile beyond Bettws Garmon, stands Narit Mill, which from its pic- turesque position, in conjunction with its miniature cas- cade and bridge, is, as Mr. Gilpin would say, one of the "sweetest" vignettes that could detain the admiring eye of a painter. A narrow road to the left leads over a rustic bridge of one arch, which is thrown across the river, and abuts on the sides of the rock formed by the obtained, through Llanwnda as far as Tal y Sarn, where a sudden turn is made to the left, which shortly brings the tourist into the district of Nantlle. TREMADOC. 269 channel through which the current rushes. The mill- stream is conveyed through a fissure of the rock and along a wooden trough to the overshot-wheel, from whence it falls and mingles with the waters below. Before bidding adieu to Beddgelert, I will mention for the information of the valetudinarian or stranger, who wishes to while away from a quarter to half an hour at this favourite resort of tourists, that he cannot employ his time more agreeably than by a stroll to the cascades on the Colwyn, which are only a few hundred yards from the Goat Hotel, to the left of the bridge. A gate, about a hundred yards beyond the bridge, opens upon a path which leads across a pleasant meadow to the Falls. This playful picture of gambolling waters is well worthy of inspection, being overhung on all sides with trees and shrubs growing from the interstices of the rocks ; and after heavy rains the sweeping river pre- sents a beautiful, and even magnificent, scene. Proceeding towards Tremadoc, along the skirt of high cliffs, a view soon presented itself of the little and great Traeths, stretching to the sea, and the bold embank- ment, which bears witness to the genius and courage worthy the present age of its enterprising founder. Thousands of acres have been reclaimed from the waters, a safe communication formed between the counties of Carnarvon and Merioneth across the estuary of Traeth Mawr, formerly the grave of so many unfor- tunate wayfarers, and the clear blue waters that rolled inland like an arm of the sea, girt by vast rocks and precipices on the left, and by the triple summit of mighty Moelwyn on the right, have disappeared, leav- ing an immense tract of broad lands, presenting their 270 TREMADOC. rich tribute to the seasons as they successively return. This extraordinary barrier of stone- work was pushed from the opposite sides of the two counties at the same time till they met in the centre of the channel. In the vicinity rise the mansions of Tan yr Allt and Morva Lodge, the work also of the same enlightened individual. The former has some architectural taste, and, being elevated on a lofty rock overlooking the town, sur- rounded by flourishing plantations, presents a pictu- resque appearance. The late W. A. Madocks, Esq., was the enterprising gentleman who has so greatly improved this district. In 1800 he recovered nearly two thousand acres from the sea; and a few years afterwards constructed the large embankment over the Traeth Mawr. About seven thousand acres more were subsequently secured from the encroachment of the tides, five thousand of which are now cultivated. The embankment is nearly a mile in length and about one hundred feet high, the breadth at top thirty feet, and varying from one to three hundred feet at the foundation ; the railway from Ffes- tiniog runs along the sea side of it, several feet above the level of the carriage-road, which affords protection to carriages and equestrians in boisterous weather. In 1821, Mr. Madocks was instrumental in procuring an Act of Parliament for improving the bay, in which vessels of two or three hundred tons burthen now ride in safety. Port Madoc is one mile from the town, whence great quantities of slates, copper ore, and other valuable materials are shipped. Tremadoc lies between Beddgelert and Pwllheli. The town is of modern origin, having been built .by Mr. Madocks, to which TREMADOC. 271 he gave his name, Tre-Madoc (tre, a town or village) ; and it possesses a tolerable inn. The village of Penmorfa is not more than four miles apart from Tremadoc, and the traveller would be in- duced to walk that distance, were it only to connect with his visit the recollection of the singular story of the Lord of Clennency, whose name stands recorded on a mural tablet in its little church. Sir John Owen, like the chivalrous Knight of the Blue Stocking at Denbigh, held out fast and firm to the royal cause in the civil wars of Charles the First. He was, however, overpowered and taken prisoner. After the execution of the king, an order was issued to bring him, with the duke of Hamilton, the earl of Holland, and the lords Goring and Capel, to trial. The bold knight said in his defence, that " He was a plain gentleman of Wales, who had been always taught to obey the king ; that he had served him honestly during the war, and finding many honest men endeavoured to raise forces whereby they might get him out of prison, he did the like." The sentence was, that he should be beheaded, which hearing, he bowed to the court, and with the most perfect good humour returned the judges thanks for their lenity. On being questioned about this extra- ordinary conduct, he replied in a firm and audible voice, " It was a great honour to a poor gentleman of Wales to lose his head with such noble lords ; for by G he was afraid they would have hanged him." He was not however beheaded; for by the zealous interference of Colonels Hutchinson and Ireton he was only imprisoned, and in a short time afterwards ob- tained his liberty. 272 PROMONTORY OP LLEYN. That part of the county of Carnarvon which projects into the sea in a south-westerly direction is called the PROMONTORY OF LLEYN, and separates the bays of Car- narvon and Cardigan. This tongue of land contains many interesting remains of antiquity, which prove its intimate connection with the earliest British history, though the traditional records have faded away, leav- ing only here and there a monument that time, and the change in the condition of its inhabitants, have not been able to destroy; like the occasional ciphers in some old moth-eaten manuscript, which may, indeed, determine its era with tolerable accuracy, but mock the antiquary's eye in relation to its import. It is, however, seldom visited by the mere pleasure-taking tourist ; for it possesses but few of those attractions in its roads, inns, and beauty-spots of earth, which usually allure him forward from place to place. Formerly the Promontory of Lleyn was distinguished by military arrangements of great skill, which bear testimony to the science of the ancient Britons in the art of fortification, and melancholy evidence, alas ! to the civil conflicts which distracted this country even before the period of the Saxon and Roman invasions. The strong circular fort of Dinas Dinlle, about six miles from Carnarvon, was the centre of two diagonal lines of posts, stretching north and south of that for- tress, having Dinorddwig " standing on tiptoe above all the rest." The stranger will discover what remains of it on the summit of a green artificial mount, rising on the verge of a marsh, so immediately on the coast that the sea, at high tides, has washed its water side into an abrupt cliff. CLYNOG. 273 Glynllifon Park, the seat of Lord Newborough, lies on the left of the road, and occupies the site of the stronghold of Cilmin Troed-du, or Cilmin with the Black Foot, one of the ancestors of the fifteen royal tribes of North Wales. In the distance are seen the gigantic heights of the Rivel Mountains, rearing their forked cones in the face of the sun, casting back his hot beams, and rising in bold relief like the savage lords of this ancient land. Close at hand the bright stream of the Llyfni crosses the road, and farther on rests the hamlet of Clynog, discovering its humble cot- tages amongst the thick rich foliage of the surrounding trees, with the open sea dashing wildly on the right of the picture, and possessing an elegant Gothic church of beautiful architecture and nobler dimensions than usually belongs to the villages of Wales. Clynog church is connected with national history, and contains several monuments ; amongst which is the altar-tomb of George Twisleton, Esq., a colonel in the Parliamentary army, who defeated and captured the loyal Sir John Owen, of whom mention has already been made. It has, also, a vaulted passage leading to what remains of the monastery and the chapel of St. Beuno, the uncle of the sainted Virgin of Winifred's Well, whose mutilated and headless effigy may still be seen in the belfry of that sacred edifice which witnessed his wonder-working powers, even after he was dead. If the traveller choose, he may see the iron-belted chest of the saint, and if he be piously disposed, he may drop his votive offering through its convenient aperture in the lid, as did the pilgrims of yore ; and furthermore, if he be not better taught, he may adopt the prescribed 274 NEVIN. form of those sinners of other days : " Here I offer to God fourpence for my private sins, on which account the Almighty is now punishing me ; to be given for the same service that the blessed saints used to offer, in the name of the Father, the Son, and the Holy Ghost. Amen." In the neighbourhood of the village, towards the sea, is an ancient cromlech, and amongst the moun- tains the waterfall of Dibyn Mawr. The road from Clynog towards the Rivel rocks passes along the western base of Gyrn Goch, the Red Point, leading to the hamlet of Llanaelhauarn, whose elevated whitewashed church becomes the beacon of the distant mariner. The path over the Rivels towards Nevin leaves the high road at this village, and crosses the mountains about the centre of the chain. NEVIN, the secluded town of Nevin, shadowed by the everlasting hills, and washed by the ocean, whose cease- less tides are said to resemble eternity, is the place of all others that a traveller should visit, who possesses the faculty of repeopling, by his imagination, the soli- tary waste with the spectacles of days long gone by. It was in the neighbouring plains of this place that Edward, after the conquest of Wales, at the latter end of the thirteenth century, summoned his own barons, and the gallants of Europe, to join in the divertisement of the Round Table. The revelry was commenced on the heights of Snowdon. From this theatre of rocks the knightly train descended in long array to the levels about Nevin. Standing on this spot, the wanderer will not fail to recall old Chaucer's description of the same pageant at the court of Duke Theseus, which, though NEVIN. 275 running rudely along the lines, forms a graphic picture of the lively scene which on that day presented itself. " There mayst thou see devising of harness So uncouth and so rich, and wrought so wele Of goldsmithry, of brouding and of steel ; The shieldes bright^, testeres, and trappures, Gold-hewn helmes, hauberks, coat-armures ; Lordes in payments on their coursers, Knightes of retinue, and eke squieVs, Nailing the spears, and holme's buckle"ing, Gniding of shields, with lainers lacing." The plains were crowded with the nobility of the coun- try, and foreigners of distinction from all parts of Christendom, besides a host of spectators. The lists were arranged in the most magnificent style, and the galleries blazed with the jewelled velvets and gold em- broidered dresses of the fair dames of England. The cavaliers waved their pennons in the air in the form of a cross, a fashion adopted by the crusaders, to display at once their gallantry and religious devotion. The judges took their stations ; " La Royne de la Beaulte et des amours/' as the old chroniclers write it, sat- blushing on her throne, having the chaplet in her fair hand, with which she was to grace the brows of her champion. The heralds made their proclamation with sounds of trumpets, " And cried was loud, Do now your deVoir, young^ knightes proud. There is no more to say ; but east and west In gone the speare"s sadly in the rest ; In go'th the sharpe" spur into the side : There see men who can joust and who can ride : There shiveren shaftes upon shielde's thick ; He feeleth through the hearth-spoon the prick : T 2 276 ISLE OF BARDSEY. Up springen speare's twenty foot on height ; Out gone the sworde"s as the silver bright : * The holme's they to hewen and to shred ; Out burst the blood with sterne" streamed red." The traveller will awake from this splendid reverie with which his imagination has thus deluded him, when he repeats to himself the last line, and as the vision vanishes from his mental eye he will recall the deeds of blood and cruelty that stained these " goode and faytheful knights," who had sworn "to susteyne the fayth of God/' and the truth of their lady-love, by their swords ; and he will remember also, the church- man's orthodox injunction, which forms an excellent commentary upon the principle and temper which cha- racterized this oifspring of the feudal ages " That a knight should render no other reason to an infidel, than six inches of his falchion thrust into his accursed bowels." About a mile from Nevin, is Porthdinlleyn the Harbour of Lleyn almost hidden from the world by a semicircular range of hills, and open only to the fine sandy sea-washed bay. A rivalry was set up by the good people of this neighbourhood, between this place and Holyhead, as a packet-station for Ireland ; but the latter possesses important natural advantages that do not belong to Porthdinlleyn.* Bardsey Isle, or Ynys Enlli, according to its British appellation, is about three miles from land. A rapid current, that has not inaptly received the title of Bard- sey Race, sets in between the island and the point called Braich y Pwll, the ancient Canganum Promon- * See page 149 of this volume. ISLE OF BARDSEY. 277 torium of the Roman geographer. The beetling rocks that rear their bare stony heads opposite to, and in some parts overhanging, the channel, would appear almost to forbid all approach to this sanctuary, at least so it would seem to the stranger standing on the verge of the promontory ; but the fisherman at the creek carries his vessel a point or two outwards, and then warily creeps into the little inlet on the south-east of the island. The rocks of which I speak form a part of the great mountainous ridge that occupies nearly one- half of the place, presenting a rugged barrier to the north, and gently sweeping into the more level lands of the south, which bear the corn-fruits of the season, with here and there a patch of green meadow. This " asylum of the saints," as the bards used to call it, was, in the first ages of Welsh history, the resort of pilgrims from all quarters; and here it was that St. Dubricius, in the early part of the sixth century, led his clergy after the Synod of Brevi, in which he dis- tinguished himself by boldly confuting the Pelagian heresy. Scarcely a trace of the ancient monastery that existed in the time of Dubricius can now be dis- covered that sacred edifice to whose holy inhabitants a special covenant was entered into by the Almighty, according to monkish legends, bestowing upon them the peculiar privilege of dying by seniority, and thus affording to each a timely warning of his approaching departure. Full twenty thousand of these holy men and devout pilgrims are said, by the historian of that time, to have consecrated the earth of Bardsey Isle by their remains ; of which the gibing Fuller, who never loses an opportunity of slipping his wit, says, " it would 278 PWLLHELI. be more facile to find graves in Bardsey for so many saints, than saints for so many graves." Another scene, and one of joyous festivity, presented itself in the island about the year 1796, when Lord Newborough, the proprietor of the place, assembled the gentry of the neighbourhood to a fete champetre on this sea-girt solitude. The lonely fishermen and cragsmen were not left unheeded on this day of enjoy- ment, or cudgelled away by the heralds and men-at- arms, as were the vassals of a barbarous age ; but col- lected in happy groups, with their wives, and the merry maidens of the isle, while the noble lord, and Lady Newborough, the Queen of Beauty for the day, dis- tributed amongst them hats and bonnets, streaming with the ribboned-colours of the rainbow. Not far from Bardsey may be seen a land-locked semicircular bay, protruding its rock-jaws far into the sea, which seamen regard with terror, and which has received the ill-omened name of Hell's Mouth. PWLLHELI,* the chief port of this part of the Bay of Cardigan, commands from its range of sand-hills, and from the blunt rock of Careg yr Imbill, about a mile from the place, the most magnificent views of ocean scenery, and brings within the sweep of the vision the distant towering mountains of Merioneth and Carnar- von. A gourmand would probably go out of his way to visit this place, were it only to taste the John Doree which is frequently taken in the bays and creeks of the coast ; a fish which the simple inhabitants used for- merly to cast again into its native element, from its forbidding ugliness, but with the flavour of which the * The briny pool. CRICCIETH. 279 celebrated Quin was so delighted, that he used to wish his palate was as long as from Bristol to London, that he might enjoy its exquisite relish all the way. The road to Criccieth is coast-wise, and the distance from Pwllheli little more than ten miles. Though the country round about is sterile and uninviting, the wailing breeze that sweeps across the sea speaks like the voice in Goethe's Song of Spirits over the waters. " Wind is the water's amorous wooer ; Wind from the depths upheaves the wild waves. Soul of a mortal, how like thou to water ! Fate of a mortal, how like to the wind ! " Criccieth has its castle of high antiquity and British origin, now in ruins, which once stood proudly on a narrow neck of land that juts into the sea. It has also its legend and history, and commands, besides, an open view across the bay, which embraces the yet imposing remains of Harlech, backed by the lofty mountains and heavy ridges of Merioneth. Sir Howel y Fwyall,* who had the government of this fortress bestowed upon him by the Black Prince, and the battleaxe ' with which he performed prodigies of valour at the battle of Poictiers, cutting off the head of the French king's horse and capturing the monarch, belong to its history. This wonderful axe had a daily commemoration of its im- portant services assigned to it at the expense of the Crown, after this fashion : A mess of meat was brought up with all due ceremony, and placed before the unconscious weapon. It then made the detour of the knight's dining-table and was set smoking before * Sir Howel of the Axe. 280 CRICCIETH. him, and afterwards it was taken to replenish the sto- machs of the poor. This ceremony was continued till the time of Elizabeth, for the benefit of the soul of Sir Howell y Fwyall. Little remains of this curious for- tress except the two round towers that flanked its entrance ; though the double foss and vallum, and the lines of its courtyards, may yet be traced with tolerable accuracy. The usual route of tourists proceeding from Trema- doc into Merionethshire is to take the road along the northern side of Traeth Bach to Tan y Bwlch, Maen- twrog, and Ffestiniog before visiting Harlech and this, indeed, is the most convenient plan ; but a fisher- man having hoisted the sail of his little craft, while I was standing on the beach near Criccieth, I jumped into it, and made a pleasant voyage through part of Cardigan Bay to Harlech, leaving the Vale of Ffesti- niog for another excursion. CHAPTEE XIV. HARLECH TAN Y BWLCH MAENTWROG FFESTINIOG. There is something in the scent and impression of a balmy atmo- sphere, in the lustre of sunshine, in the azure heaven and purple clouds, in the opening of prospects on this side and on that, in the contempla- tion of verdure and fertility, and industry and simplicity, and cheerful- neas, in all their variations, in the very art and exercise of travelling, peculiarly congenial to the human frame. GODWIN'S ST. LEON. HARLECH would appear to the visitor at the present day a mean little village, only remarkable for its feudal castle; but it was formerly a town of considerable importance, and a fortified post of the Romans and the Britons, defending the openings of the two raeths, and securing a communication with the opposite shore. This place was much to my taste ; it had musty records and old legends pertaining to its fortress and wild haunts in its neighbourhood, so I entered the open door of the Blue Lion, a small but clean and comfortable inn, with plenty of savoury edibles wherewith to refresh the hungry traveller. Harlech Castle stands on a rocky eminence, close by the marshy tract between the hills and Cardigan Bay, bearing, when viewed from the low ground, a consider- able resemblance to the Turkish castle of Belgrade. The name of the old fortress was Twr Bronwen, from Bronvven, or the fair-necked sister to Bren ap Llyr, 282 HARLECH. duke of Cornwall, and subsequently king of Britain. This lady lived in the third century, and was the wife of Matholwch, an Irishman. Though fair to look upon, she does not seem to have been of very " gentle blood j" for her husband having unfortunately struck her a blow upon the face, she roused all the country into a civil war to revenge the insult. This unlucky blow is called in the ancient triads one of the three evil blows of Britain, two other outrages of a similar kind having produced the like commotions. This lady is believed to have dwelt in this fortress, from the highest turret in the castle being called Bronwen's Tower. In the eleventh century it was termed Caer Collwyn, from Collwyn ap Tango, Lord of Ardudwy, who resided in a square tower of the ancient edifice, parts of which, now the foundation of the more modern work, may yet be distinguished. The present castle one of the most entire in Wales bears evidence of having been erected by the architect who was employed by Edward I. in his other magnificent and gigantic structures, and con- sists of one large square building, each side measuring above seventy yards, having a round tower at the several corners, crowned with turrets, now nearly de- faced. How fearful must it have appeared in its pride of strength, with its numerous fortifications, its fosses, and based on the verge of a perpendicular rock which rendered it almost invulnerable ! The walls, which are partly covered with ivy, are lofty and of great thick- ness, towering above the marsh and the sea ; and from the summit is beheld a splendid prospect over the bay, the promontory of Lleyn, Criccieth Castle, the shagged sides of Carreg y Saeth, and the range of HARLECH. 283 Snowdon hills, soaring far above the other mountains now bright, now half-shrouded in their veil of clouds. If we may credit tradition, the ancient fortress, on the foundations of which Harlech Castle stands, was built by Maelgwyn Gwynedd, prince of North Wales, about 350. The modern structure was completed in 1283 ; in 1404 it was seized, with that of Cardigan, by the fiery Glendower ; and in the Wars of the Roses it afforded a retreat to the high-spirited Margaret of Anjou, after escaping the grasp of the intriguing Lord Stanley, and the fatal overthrow at Northampton. Strange and bitter, indeed, must have been her feelings, when she entered this gloomy fortress, driven from the gay capital of her husband's empire, and seeking a hasty refuge from the storm which beat upon her fortunes within its frowning gates. No longer a jewelled queen, the proudest among the high-born dames of England, but "a hunted deer, hit by th' archers," fleeing from the fury of her enemies, disguised, deserted, and almost heart-broken. There is some- thing magnificent in the pride of Margaret, and her untameable courage in the midst of the most dismal disasters, and to the last of her life, has left her a name which belongs to no other British queen. From Harlech Margaret proceeded to Scotland, raised a new army, and waved her banner of victory upon the plains of Wakefield. When the tide of success set in favour of Edward IV., the only strongholds which held out against the victor were a few castles in Northumber- land and that of Harlech. The last was held for the Lancasterian party by David ap Jevan, equally distin- guished by his stature and by his valour. Spite of 284 HARLECH. threats and sieges, he remained governor nine years after the coronation of Edward. At length the king sent an army against him, commanded by the earl of Pembroke. After marching with incredible difficulty and hardship through the rough denies of the British Alps, surmounting terrific crags, and passing along steep precipices, the English at length succeeded in surrounding the fortress. Pembroke committed the siege to his brother, a hero at least equal in size, if not in military prowess, to the British commander. In reply to the summons for surrender, the fiery Cambrian made answer, that once in France, " he held a tower till all the old women in Wales heard of it, and that the old women of France should now hear how he had defended a Welsh castle."* ' Sir Richard, finding all other means fruitless, had at length recourse to famine. This is always a powerful mediator ; and the knight having promised both life and liberty to the besieged, on these terms the place was surrendered. On the news being conveyed to King Edward, he angrily refused to fulfil the conditions, having promised himself the pleasure of putting the obstinate old commander to some cruel death. " Then, sire," replied the gallant Sir Richard, " you may wreak your vengeance upon me ; here is my life in place of the Welsh captain's ; and if you do not comply, I will instantly put David again in possession of his castle, and your highness may send whom you please to take him out." In the civil wars between Charles and his Parliament, this was the last fortress that maintained the Royal * History of the Gwyder Family. HARLECH. 285 cause. It surrendered to General Mytton in March, 1647, on honourable terms, when Mr. William Owen was its governor, and the garrison consisted only of twenty-eight men. Pennant gives an account of a golden torques found in a garden near this place in 1692 j but whether it is a Roman, Gallic, or British relic, appears somewhat doubtful.* Its use appears to have been that of a baldrick, to suspend the quiver of the chieftains or men of rank, so as to hang in a graceful manner by means of the hook, while the golden wreath, passing over one shoulder, crossed the breast diagonally. According to Pliny, it was bestowed among the Romans as a military reward for great exploits ; and the etiquette, I believe, was to award to citizens torques formed of silver, and to the auxiliaries the same composed of gold. From the castle may be seen, at the ebb of spring tides, distant about six miles in a southerly direction, the dangerous bank of sand and gravel of Sarn Badrig, or, as it is sometimes spelt, Badrwyg, the Giant's Causeway, which lies in the shape of an uncoiled ser- pent at the bottom of the bay, running twenty miles from the coast. If tradition is to be credited, all this part of the sea was formerly an inhabited district, called Cantref Gwaelod,f a rich pastoral region, which was overwhelmed by the ocean about the year 500. J * In the beautiful description by Virgil, when speaking of the exer- cises of the Trojan youths, there is an allusion to this mode of wearing their quivers : " Cornea bina ferunt prsefixa hastilia ferro, Pars leves humero pharetras : it pectore summo Flexilis abtorti per collum circulus auri." t The Lowland Hundred. J Note, page 20, Bingley. 286 HARLECH. The district about Harlech is extremely interesting, from the number of British remains cromlechs, car- nedds, pillar-stones, and circles within which the Gor- seddau, or bardic meetings, were formerly held by which it is surrounded. About four miles south- easterly is the romantic glen of Cwm Bychan, and the desolate passes of Bwlch Tyddiad and Drws Ardudwy, combining scenes of nature in her wildest and most beautifully luxuriant attire. Near the pool of Cwm Bychan rises the black and gigantic rock called Carreg y Saeth,* and the stream which runs from the north- ward issues from the high land by Llyn-eiddew Mawr on the range of Y Graigddrwg. The prime of the morning affords to the foot-traveller in Wales an opportunity of witnessing, at his leisure, the wonderful enchantments produced by the vapoury clouds that hang at that time about the woods and mountains; and then afterwards to follow the revela- tions of earth's real beauties, under the dispelling in- fluence of the beaming light. It was at early day, therefore, that I set out from Harlech on my way to Tan y Bwlch, having the shining waters of the bay on my left, and a fabric of massy rocks on the right. The road after the first three miles runs along the shore of the Traeth Bach, and within a mile of the upper and lower pools of Llandecwyn. Crossing a low mountain- ous ridge, the village and vale of Maentwrog discover themselves at a comparatively short distance. I turned off to the right, however, before reaching this peaceful hamlet, for the purpose of visiting the waterfall of Rhaiadr Du, the Black Cataract, formed by the inter- * The rock of the arrow. TAN Y BWLCFI. 287 esting little river Velin Rhyd. The water throws itself over three black smooth rocks, placed in such opposing directions that the whole of the stream is not seen from the bottom, and then rushes impetuously through separate channels overhung with masses of rock and foliage, that,, in some parts, almost exclude the light of day. After contemplating this extraordinary scene for some time, I turned away and regained the road leading to the pleasant and salubrious village of Maentwrog; passing through which I shortly arrived at the Oakley Arms Hotel, Tan y Bwlch. The Oakley Arms is situated at a picturesque angle of the road, and commands an extensive view along the vale, with the river Dwyryd flowing along in tortuous windings, here and there visible through trees, which are ranged in beautiful order, or massed together throughout the vale, imparting to it an harmonious and park-like effect. The hotel has rather a singular appearance ; it consists of three ranges of building with octangular ends, connected together by small porches, which form entrances to the house and offices. I was particularly struck with some large blocks of stone with which the porches are paved, one of which, I was told, contained ninety square feet, and I observed a remarkable block forming the brest-summer of the coach-house, which is nearly thirty feet long. The following morning was delightfully fine and the air invigorating. After breakfast accompanied by a pedestrian from the Emerald Isle, who, though a pre- vious stranger to me, I found a most agreeable and intelligent companion, I entered the grounds of the neighbouring mansion, eager to behold the truly ro- TAN Y BWLCH. mantic scenery around. Few things can surpass the pleasure of a morning ramble through the woods which clothe the heights above the hall, or the splendour of the prospect from the terrace over the vale, which is beautifully enriched with every feature of landscape and of water, and forms a rich panoramic picture. The entrance to Plas Tan y Bwlch is through a fine avenue of trees, the road winding round the slope of the hill and over a lofty bridge, under which rolls in foaming torrents a mountain stream which is overhung with rich foliage. The house is situated on an eminence commanding fine views of the vale beneath, and the surrounding mountains. Turning through a small gate, we entered upon an oblong terrace, raised above the gardens to a level with the mansion, one side of it being supported by massive buttresses; and having at the western end a flight of steps leading to the shrubberies. In my walk through the grounds, which are, by the politeness of the owner, accessible to visitors, I observed some magnificent specimens of the rhododendron, of nearly thirty years' growth, and the laurels surpassed any I had ever before seen ; numerous other plants and trees appeared to grow equally luxuriantly -, both gar- dens and plantations were tastefully laid out, and well adapted to the continual inequalities in the surface and the aspect. It was here I first remarked the singular appearance of two fine young trees, an elm and an ash, which, having sprung up side by side, intertwined their stems almost from the root in so strict an embrace as present the sylvan phenomenon of a single tree. I had already beheld the valley so much extolled by Lord Lyttleton and, indeed, by every one who has FFESTINIOG. 289 described it from different points, and under every variety of aspect. The approach to it from the gloomy wilderness of the pass of Aberglasslyn is full of beauty, rendered more novel and pleasing from its singular contrasts. I had looked upon its glittering stream, when at the full, from the bold eminence below which it lies embosomed, whence the white sail could scarcely be discovered, and the fishermen on its banks became but mere specks. I had beheld it more nearly in its lovely features, from the pleasant inn at Tan y Bwlch from the bridge at Maentwrog, and the bold acclivities above along the banks of the meandering river, and, not the least, from the elevated and salubriously situ- ated hamlet of Ffestiniog, from which the vale, though rather improperly, takes its name. But under no view had it presented itself, as a whole, in so charming a combination of objects, and in all its softer and most attractive features, as when I then beheld it about a mile below Maentwrog on an eminence above the road to Harlech ; its rock-strewn, sedgy banks, the lake-like waters of theTraeth, its wooded prospects, its picturesque objects, and white edifices upon the acclivities, half hidden by groves of rich and varied foliage, with the more boldly variegated hills rising above hills swelling into the distance. It was here, I thought, while contemplating the repose and beauty of the scene, that the idea of a retired life had charms even for the breast of a peer. " With the woman one loves," says Lord Lyttleton in a letter to Mr. Bower, " with the friend of one's heart, and a good study of books, one might pass an age in this vale, and think it a day. If you have a mind to live long and renew your youth, come and settle at 290 MAENTWROG. Ffestiniog." More than once, also, from its peculiar site and pleasant aspect, the vale of Ffestiniog has not undeservedly, by those who have observed the charac- teristic features of both, been compared with the valleys of Sicily and Greece, and especially the celebrated vale of Tempe, with this advantage, indeed, that it has no infernal deity to run off with the village Proserpine, who may be gathering her apron full of flowers from its quiet fields, nor any lurking assassins to mar its beauty and endanger its possession, as had at one time its Attic original. But it stands in no need of classical resemblances to enhance its natural beauties, when be- held, richly wooded and finely watered as it is, in the glowing hues of the year, when the departing sun, illumining the surrounding peaks, reflects a radiant light upon the scene, which may well remind the tra- veller of the most lovely spots which he has ever visited in other lands, It is then that the little hamlet of Maentwrog, situated midway on the declivity of its verdant eminence, appears with most picturesque effect, and the river Dwyryd, fed by the Cynfael, and another neighbouring mountain-torrent, gives a silvery splen- dour to the prospect, combined with all that variegated beauty which is seen in no other Cambrian vale. MAENTWROG takes its title from the stone of Twrog, which stands in the churchyard, and perpetuates the name of a British saint, who lived about the year 610. The record belonging to St. Beuno, called the Tiboeth, which was formerly kept at Clynog Church, was written by this same Twrog. A day's fatigue, on foot, even while exploring the beauties of Maentwrog, would lead a traveller to say, MAENTWROG. 291 with Sancho Panza, "Blessed is the man that first invented sleep." Or to apostrophise in those beautiful words from the Latin : " Though death's strong likeness in thy form I trace, Come, Sleep, and fold me in thy soft embrace ; Come, gentle Sleep, that sweetest blessing give To die, thus living ; and thus dead, to live." I soon found the bland influence of the poppy-god, and after a night of delicious rest, I arose early the ensuing morning, with the intention of walking as far as Ffes- tiniog to breakfast. I took the old road, which, on one side, is bounded by a ravine, and on the other is over- grown by firs, whose darkening shadow, with the whist- ling of the fitful blast from the hollow of the hills, sweeping the trembling leaves across my path, commu- nicated a peculiarly solemn air to the landscape, con- trasting with the gloomy tints of the dawn, the warb- ling of birds, and the sounds of rural industry and mirth. A splendid sunrise and a brightening sky augured one more of those enviable days I had hitherto enjoyed ; yet I had gone but a little way before a heavy mist half fog, Half rain- came driving up the shrouded valley, and in a few minutes completely enveloped the whole scene as in a cloud. In the hope that it would as quickly pass away, I took shelter under a hedge, where, however, I found myself in an ant's nest, and not relishing the extreme familiarity of these tiny crea- tures, and, seeing no prospect of the weather clearing up, I was fain to push forward, feeling, though for the first time, not in the best possible humour with my peripatetic mode of travelling. Pedestrian miseries, however, which fly before a u 2 292 FFESTINIOG. gleam of sunshine a shepherd's path, if lost among the hills the smoke of some distant cottage, or the village spire, at evening's fall, are not the most diffi- cult things to be borne ; and, as I advanced, the sight of the far-swelling hills, the sun-lit summits towering beyond, the silvery Dwyryd stealing along luxuriant fields and meadows, the lofty wooded mountains, which flank the sides of the opening vale, all conspired to awaken emotions only the more pleasurable from the passing gloom of the morning. FFESTINIOG is built on an eminence, overlooking the vale. Near the village are the terrific falls of the Cyn- fael. The way to them lies across the fields, in a pretty direct line from the front of the inn, and then winds through a wood to the first fall, the distance being about half a mile. The upper one rushes over three projections of dark rocks, which rise like steps one above another, into a deep black basin, rendered still darker by the shadowing precipices, intermingled with huge protruding stony masses ; while the darkness and solitude of the place are increased by the sad- coloured foliage of the branches, overhanging the rapid stream from each of its banks. A few yards lower down rises a bold columnar rock, called Pulpit Hugh Llwyd Cyn- fael, or Hugh Lloyd's Pulpit, rising from the bed of the river ;* passing which, and crossing the river, by means * Of this bard, magician, and warrior, for he claimed all these titles, the following anecdote is recorded : " When he was a young man, he made a stone seat to put at the door of his house, which was not far from hence ; and his wife's sister was the first that sat upon it. ' Molly,' he said, ' you have sat first upon this bench, and you must pay me three kisses for it.' The demand was satisfied. Sometime afterwards his wife died, and he went to London ; leaving his sister-in- FALLS OF THE CYNFAEL. 293 of a rustic stone bridge, within five minutes' walk is seen the second fall. It is much less extensive than the other, and precipitates itself in a small stream down a shelving rock about forty feet in height. It then bounds along a narrow chasm, and, struggling among the many-coloured rocks, reflects a variety of tints, as it falls from slope to slope, till finding a more even bed, it at length meanders quietly through the vale, and mingles with the waters of the Dwyryd. Great cam- law, then married, and her husband. He enlisted into the Parliament's forces, where he soon obtained a commission ; and he was in the army of General Monk at the restoration of Charles II. After having been from home many years, and at length growing old, he returned to his native country. Arriving at his own house, one fine summer's evening, he saw his sister-in-law, her husband, and children, 'all now grown up,' sitting on the same stone bench, eating flummery and milk. He asked them in English, if they would give him a night's lodging ? but none of them knew a word of this language. They, however, conjectured what he wanted, and showed him a bed, the best in the cottage, but asked him to partake of their fare before he retired to rest. This he did, and being satisfied with his hospitable reception, addressed them in Welsh, in the following extempore stanza, which may be thus translated : ' For wines delicious mighty France is prais'd, And various dainties are for London rais'd ; With butter, Holland half the world supplies, But milk and flummery more than all I prize.' 'What! you are a Welshman, my good friend?' exclaimed his sister. ' Yes,' said he, ' I am : it is many years since I had three kisses from the female who sat first on this bench ! ' He was imme- diately recognised with the utmost joy. He then took out of his pocket a large purse filled with gold, and throwing it into her lap, ' Here,' said he, ' take this as a reward for your hospitality to the old English stranger, who is more than fourscore years of age : he requires for it nothing more than a bed every night, and flummery and milk every day while he lives.' " From this time it is said that he resided with them till his death, which did not happen till some years afterwards. 294 RHAIADR CWM. tion is necessary in seeing these waterfalls, many places being overgrown by underwood, and the paths in others undermined by the action of wind and rain. I made an excursion from Ffestiniog to the grand cataract and glen called Rhaiadr Cwm. This rude and stupendous scene is observed from the road leading towards Yspytty Evan and Pentre Voelas ; but, to ap- preciate its sublimity, the traveller should descend the mountain, which, however, is almost an unfrequented solitude, although the neighbouring roads have recently been much improved. Seen, as I had the opportunity, when the sun had flared through his zenith, and the lengthening shadows began gradually to creep over the valley, the immensity of the rocks, and the wildness of the landscape, gave rise to feelings of wonder and sur- prise. Scrambling over the intervening objects, I reached an angle of a cliff, midway in the ascent, where the grandeur of the surrounding scenery cannot fail to interest the timid observer who, perhaps, would not dare to venture lower into the glen. The little stream is noticed, in its almost perpendicular course, sparkling over the rocks, after which it dashes its crystal waters through the obstructions of the vale. The surrounding mountains are black and precipitous, and the glen, heathy and barren, appears more striking after viewing the rich and varied landscapes in the vale of Ffestiniog. At the turnpike-gate, near Ffestiniog, a road branches off to the south, and ascends a hill, at the head of which stands a small farm called Tyn y Ffridd, the owner of which I found at once intelligent and polite ; for he not only named all the objects worthy of notice in the neighbourhood, but, a heavy shower of rain coming on, FFESTINIOG. 295 he proffered me shelter in his abode, in which cleanli- ness and comfort abounded. The table was soon spread, and I partook of his hospitable fare. After spending some time with him, I descended the hill for about half a mile, when the hoarse sounds of rolling waters beto- kened the near approach to some rapid stream. In a few minutes I reached the bridge called Pont Newydd, which carries the road over the river Cynfael. This spot will amply repay the traveller who delights in the picturesque, for the length of his walk. The bridge is a flat segmental arch of about thirty feet span, over- grown with ivy, clasping the river from side to side, resting its abutments on the immovable rocks, about forty feet above the fall of the waters. Large masses project on either side, contending for their ancient do- main with struggling plants which have sprung from between their fissures, while the dashing element pours with fearful impetuosity from one steep to another, foaming and roaring through the dark hollows beneath. Clumps of luxuriant trees overhang the banks on each side, and through them the troubled stream, every now and then, discovered itself with fine effect, as the setting sun's rays lighted up the gauzy spray which stole amongst the umbrageous shades around. Before seeing this spot I had never even heard of it, and I will venture to say that it is rarely visited by the foot of the traveller; but this subject may be classed amongst the finest scenes, on a small scale, in the Prin- cipality. Do, gentle reader, if thou canst read in Nature's book, and hast an ear for the solemn tones of her mysterious voice, step for once out of the every-day track of modern travellers, and take the trouble of inspecting the bridge of Pont Newydd. CHAPTER XVI. TRAWSFYNYDD DOLGELLEY BARMOUTH MACHYNNLETH. Smooth to the shelving brink a copious flood Eolls foir and placid, where collected all, In one impetuous torrent, down the steep It thundering shoots, and shakes the country round ; At first an azure sheet, it rushes broad ; Then whitening by degrees, as prone it falls, And from the loud resounding rocks below Dash'd in a cloud of foam, it sends aloft A hoary mist, and forms a ceaseless shower. Nor can the tortured wave here find repose, But, raging still amid the shaggy rocks, Now flashes o'er the scatter'd fragments, now Aslant the hollow channel rapid darts ; And falling fast from gradual slope to slope, With wild infracted course and lessen'd roar, It gains a safer bed, and steals at last Along the mazes of the quiet vale. THOMSON. I LEFT with lingering regret the romantic vales of Cynfael and Dwyryd, and bent my steps towards Traws- fynydd, passing over the Cynfael by the bridge of Pont Newydd, which I have before mentioned, and, taking a diverging road on the right, gained, after a walk of two miles, the direct turnpike which bears towards the south. It was here I observed a remarkable meteoro- logical effect, I might say, as regards my own expe- TRAWSFYNYDD. 297 rience, a natural phenomenon, though by no means considered so, I was told, at this period of the year, in Wales, that of_ the sky around being heavy and black, with the clouds resting on the hills, while the sun shone brightly on the mountain of Moelwyn, at a distance of four miles, by which the perspective illusion of every object appearing close to, and clearly before the eye, was produced. Rambling on my solitary way towards Trawsfynydd, I was considerably amused, on meeting the villagers and market women, to observe their tenacious love of the large, round beaver hat, the full sleeves, and dressy neck-kerchiefs. They looked cheerful and happy, and were mostly engaged in knitting as they passed by me ; no bad example, I thought, to the young and old in other countries. As I proceeded, the scenery soon became changed for features of a more sombre hue, with coarse, bleak heath, which continued beyond Trawsfyndd. Almost every village in the Principality has some natural curiosity or remnant of antiquity, which, in the eyes of a tourist, confers a degree of interest on its neighbourhood, and Trawsfynydd is not, in this respect, without its attrac- tions. A common near it is traversed by a Roman road, supposed to have been constructed by Helena, daughter of a British prince, and wife of the Emperor Maximus. It is at present only to be distinguished by its elevation above the general level of the plain, being completely covered with turf; but, on digging, the several layers of stones with which it is formed are easily discovered. Cromlechs, also, and carnedds are numerous on the hills, which, though now bare, were 298 PISTYLL CAIN. anciently, in many places, covered with forests of oak. The situation of Trawsfynydd is particularly wild and lonely, and the village, walled in by bleak and barren mountains, seems as though it were shut out from the rest of the world. It would be a convenience to tourists in general to procure a carriage at Ffestiniog or Maentwrog, and ride about five or six miles beyond Trawsfynydd, which will enable them to inspect the falls of the Cain and Mawddach, and to proceed to Dolgelley without much fatigue. A few miles beyond Trawsfynydd the country be- comes richly wooded, and the hazel, the honeysuckle, and blackberry intermingle in all their varieties in the hedge-rows by the way-side. Taking a mountain-path to the left, near Pont Dolgefeiliau, at perhaps the dis- tance of a mile I reached the grand waterfall named Pistyll Cain, the Spout of the Cain. The river here is contracted into a comparatively narrow stream, which precipitates itself over nearly perpendicular rocks, lying in rugged horizontal strata, from a height of about 150 feet, now descending in one clear unbroken sheet of water, then breaking into separate torrents, from the stony masses which interrupt its fall, and again uniting to send its fretted foaming stream into the dark gulf below, amidst the bright foliage of the oak, and birch, and elm, that spring from every crevice, and overhang its tumultuous course. Viewed from the summit of the fall, with the broken and magnificent prospect below, the rich dark woods interchanging their vivid hues with huge masses of rocks, and the swelling mountains nearing the scene, and towering in sublime grandeur in the distance, the subject is one of such DOLYMELYNEN. 299 extraordinary materials, as could alone be justly appre- hended and felt by the eye and heart of the poet and painter. Not far from the junction of the Cain with the Mawddach is another waterfall, which possesses its own peculiar interest and beauty. It is not so high as its neighbour, but the stream is much more shattered ; and, after leaping over three successive rock-ledges, it falls into a large basin, worn and shaped by the ceaseless cataract. Rude fragments from the adjoining cliffs lie scattered in the channel and over the foreground, and the scene of the fall exhibits an amphitheatre of rocks and trees mingled in sober harmony together. Not far from this spot is a rustic bridge thrown over the noisy flood, which clasps the Alpine banks in picturesque sim- plicity, and adds greatly to the primitive beauty of the picture. The traveller must now retrace his steps back to the high road, and, at the distance of two miles, he will reach the estate of Dolymelynen, nearly covered with fine timber trees. I was much delighted with this lux- uriant and secluded place, which presents an extended reach of beautiful forest scenery. The oak, lime, walnut, and ash, are of magnificent dimensions, but nothing can exceed the beauty and exuberance of the acacia. I had visited this sylvan retreat some years before, when spring was arraying the trees, shrubs, and flowers in their early yet interesting and charming foliage. Then the beautiful pastoral lines of the poet Clare often occurred to my mind, his exquisite descrip- tions freshening even the face of nature. Through the estate of Dolymelynen rolls the river 300 GANLLWYD. Caralan, which is one continued series of falls from its source, high among the mountains, to its junction with the Mawddach in the valley below. One of the larger falls (which, in reality, forms three falls) is called the Rhaiadr Du, where the water tumbles over rocks more than fifty feet in height, and, especially after heavy rain, descends almost with the roar of thunder. The surrounding scenery is well wooded, and the black rocks on each side of the rapid stream present a singular pic- ture, being for the most part covered with pure white lichen. When the observer is seated on the hill above the falls, the opposite mountain of Penrhos is seen closing the extent of this narrow vale. On the hill are two copper mines, and on Vigra, Cae Mawr, Penrhos, and Dolyfrwynog, are several others. Dolymelyiien is five miles from Dolgelley. A walk of a mile brought me to the pleasantly situated little inn at Ganllwyd, called the " Oakley Arms." This house is erected close to the road leading from Maentwrog to Dolgelley, and within a stone's throw of the angry river Mawddach. It is encircled by majestic hills, which were then mostly covered with heath and fern in blossom, giving an ap- pearance of richness and beauty even to the most arid and barren parts. Immediately before the house rises the mountain of Penrhos, the river washing its base. On the right hand, apparently at the end of the vale, appears Cefn Mawr; while behind, as if to protect this charming retreat from the westerly gales, winds the long and broad range of Craig Cau. This little inn at Ganllwyd presents an admirable station for the artist, the angler, and the lover of nature. It is, for the hardy pedestrian, within an easy journey W.Kaddyffe GANLLWYD. 301 of numerous remarkable points of scenery, embracing four lakes and six rivers, besides numerous rippling mountain-streams, some of which abound with cataracts or falls. A gentleman, who was staying at this inn while I was there, showed me, as a great curiosity, the handbill of a person, who was, for many years, a guide to the surrounding scenery. The following is an extract from this facetious publication : " Robert Edwards, second son of the celebrated tanner, William Edwards, ap Griffith, ap Morgan, ap David, ap Owen, ap Llew- elyn, ap Cadwaladr; great great great grandson of an illegitimate daughter of the illustrious hero Sir Rice ap Thomas ! by Ann, daughter of Howell ap Jenkin, of Ynys y Maengwyn ; who was the thirteenth in descent from Cadwgan, a lineal descendant of Bleddyn, ap Cynfyn, Prince of Powis. Since his nativity full two and eighty times hath the sun rolled to his summer solstice ; fifty years was he host of the Hen and Chickens ale-house, Pen y bont, twenty of which he was apparitor to the late Reverend Father in God, John, Lord Bishop of Bangor, and his predecessors : by chance made a glover, by genius a fly-dresser and angler. Is now, by the All-Divine assistance, conductor to and over the most tremendous mountain, Cader Idris, to the stupendous cataracts of Cayne and Mawddach, and to the enchanting cascades of Dol y Melynllyn, with all its beautiful and romantic scenery." Dr. Mavor, who employed this oddity, says, in his tour, " he is a slender man, about five feet four inches in height, and, notwithstanding his advanced age, hopped and skipped about the room with all the vivacity and agility of a schoolboy. The manner in which he ex- 302 LLANELLTYD. presses himself is as droll as his appearance. He was dressed in a blue coat with yellow buttons, a pair of old boots, and a cocked hat and feathers of enormous size. His whole air was military, though he had never been a soldier. He procured several little horses. Nothing could be so amusing as to see the guide, en militaire, with a long white rod in his hand, like another Merlin, setting out on a full canter from the door of the inn, on his Welsh poney, followed by a little cavalcade, who could scarcely keep their seats for laughter. He talked much of curiosity -men, meaning naturalists ; and enu- merated among his followers some eminent names in science and literature; among the rest, Sir Joseph Bankes and the late Earl of Bristol. Another traveller describes him as " a little shrivelled old man, about eighty-five years old, yet active as a goat, and vivacious as a viper, with a great deal of low humour." Proceeding near the course of the river, I entered the pretty village of Llanelltyd, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Mawddach, at the head of the pictu- resque vale. The parish is very extensive, embracing in its circuit the ancient abbey of Kymmer, which I shall describe in my route from Dolgelly to Barmouth. The vale of Llanelltyd boasts of beauties peculiar to itself; and it is to this distinctive feature that so much of the charm we still find in the recurrence of valleys, streams, and woodlands, still unexhausted, is chiefly to be re- ferred. Here, as I saw it, under the shadow of a cloudy day, with the murmurs of the river, mingled with the whistling winds from the mountain hollows, the richly diversified foliage assuming still new lights and shades DOLGELLEY. 303 with the varying sky, the parting sunbeams or gather- ing twilight, it had more of the wild and sombre than the beautiful, for which it has been so often extolled. As I bent my steps along the sedgy banks of the brawling stream, and marked the evening shadows lengthening on the distant heights, and the thin mist gradually shrouding the magnificent prospects spread around, the thoughts of one of my favourite poets rose fresh in my mind, recalled no less by their singular truth and beauty, than by the hour and the scene. A pleasant walk of about a mile and a half beyond Llanelltyd brings the traveller to DOLGELLEY, which is encircled by mountains, and seated on the river "Wnion, here a broad, shallow stream, over which is a handsome bridge of seven arches. It has a neat church, contain- ing some old monuments ; and a commodious county hall, in which is a portrait of Sir Robert Vaughan, by the President of the Royal Academy. The picture, however, is suspended in so bad a situation, that its merits may be said to be altogether lost. This little town would furnish excellent head-quarters to the traveller. Though irregularly built, and without any architectural attractions in itself, it is environed by subjects of great natural interest, and has within reach the waterfalls which I have described in my route from Ffestiniog, the secluded vale of Llanelltyd, the scenery around Barmouth, the mountain chain of Cader Idris, and the beautiful lake of Tal y Llyn. Whatever might be the quality and variety of attrac- tions which were ready to allure me out of Dolgelley, my first visit next morning was to Nannau Park, the 304 NANNAU PARK. seat of Sir R. Vaughan.* The house stands on an eminence, and the road thither from the town is one continued ascent, so that it is said " to stand higher than any gentleman's house in Britain." From various parts of it I paused to enjoy the delightful views obtained over the Vale of the Hazles, traversed in its whole extent by the river Wnion. The grounds of Nannau are entered under a fine gateway, and, in approaching the house, at least a mile distant from the entrance to the park, I passed along the side of a little murmuring stream, and through a succession of dingles, covered with blackberry bushes, ivy, and moss. The weather being hot, it was pleasant to pause from time to time under the shades of the gigantic old trees that flung their gnarled boughs over the road, the spaces between them being here and there filled up by an exuberant growth of underwood. Innumerable blackbirds, linnets, and other singing birds filled the air with music ; and, except the buzzing of flies, rising in clouds from the copses, and the rippling of the brook at my feet, no other sounds met the ear. Nothing could be more rural or picturesque, more calm or tranquil, than the whole scene. In the foliage of the woods there was all that variety of rich tint produced by the intermingling of the oak, the lime, the walnut, the laurel, the acacia, the ash, the fir, * Of this ancient and hospitable house, it is related, that it was formerly a custom to fill twelve casks, containing a hundred and twenty gallons each, with strong ale, denominated after the first twelve emperors of Rome, and that each cask was twelve years old before it was tapped, and as soon as it had passed its minority there was another brewed, so that the imperial series was always complete. NANNATJ PARK. 305 and the beech, grouped and contrasted with infinite beauty. The gardens of Nannau are extensive, and laid out with much taste. Owing, however, to the under-gar- dener's entire ignorance of the English language, and his superintendent being absent that day, I probably lost much of the history of the grounds, which, related with all that confident, unconscious prolixity known only in the present day to this description of chroniclers, might have proved exceedingly amusing both to me and my readers. Still I made in his company the round of hothouses, greenhouses, &c., and greatly admired the number of beautiful exotics collected on one of the highest spots devoted to horticulture in the kingdom. The mansion is spacious and delightfully situated. The chief attraction of the spot, which is probably not exceeded in point of scenery by any in the kingdom, lies in the beauty and romantic traditions of the park. In the higher part are the remains of a British post, noticed by all tourists, called Moel Orthrwm, or the Hill of Oppression, having, probably, as Pennant con- jectures, been formerly held by some tyrant ; and here also, until lately, stood an immense oak, blasted and hollowed by time, in which, according to popular belief, Owen Glendower inhumed the fresh bleeding corpse of his treacherous cousin, Howel Sele, who had been bribed to make an attempt upon his life, where it re- mained concealed for forty years. Pennant and Evans, with an unskilful application of their classical reading, talk of Hamadryads, &c., in connection with the fatal tree, and inform us that it was denominated " the 306 NANNAU PARK. Hollow Oak, the Haunt of Demons." But the only demon known to the peasants of the neighbourhood would be the ghost of Howel Sele, or a White Lady, or the Fair Family, as they called the fairies. In Pennant's time, the trunk of this patriarchal tree was twenty-seven feet and a half in circumference ; it was in the last stage of decay, and pierced by age into the form of a Gothic arch. Its end is thus described by Sir Richard Colt Hoare : " During a visit to Sir Robert Vaughan, in the year 1813, this aged tree, men- tioned by Mr. Pennant, attracted my notice ; and, on the morning of the 13th of July, I made a drawing of it, in one of the most sultry days I ever felt; the succeeding night was equally hot, and on the same night this venerable oak fell to the ground." In descending the hill towards Dolgelley, I enjoyed a magnificent view of the Alpine chain of Cader Idris, extending from the north-east to the south-west, in a line parallel with the shore. The mist still rested on the inferior heights, in some places concealing their summits, in others stretching in slender horizontal lines or masses along their slopes. All the adjacent eminences are richly wooded, and though the trees, in most places, have the appearance of recent planting, yet they are no less imposing than those of natural primeval forests. But for me, " the old hereditary trees," which inspired the muse of Cowley, have a charm no new plantations can boast ; and, as I retraced my steps, the hills and groves of my boyhood, with youthful companions no longer at my side, rose in all the strength of reality before me ; and for the moment I gave way to one of those delightful day-dreams in which the imagination KYMMER ABBEY. 307 will at times indulge as a kind of set-off against the frowns of fate : like a glow of sunset upon the lake, for a few brief instants they disperse the black, deepening shadows which portend the approach of night, and throw at least a passing radiance upon our homeward path. After dinner I rambled by the side of a small stream which issues from Geu-graig on Cader Idris, through a forest of larch and beech at the back of the town ; at the top of the hill is a large mill, in which the manufacture of flannel is carried on. My path now lay towards Barmouth, and I therefore left Dolgelley* the next morning, by what is called the Old Road. I surmounted the steep hill, and branching off to the right, by a foot-path across some meadows, turned up the old sycamore avenue, to visit the ruins of Kymmer Abbey, or Y Vanner, as it is better known by the country people, lying in desolation by the side of the MaAvddach, about a quarter of a mile above the bridge. Viewed in combination with the rich diversity of objects presenting themselves along the course of the stream, the approach to this time-worn monument of vanished ages has something sombre and impressive. Above, in the distance, towers the dark rock of Moel Orthrwm ; below, several valleys, watered by the inter- mingling of different streams, their banks studded with * An old chronicler, relating some of the wonders of this town, says, that "it is entered under water, and departed from over water; that it hath walls three miles high ; and that the steeple thereof doth grow." The solution is as follows : at the entrance of the town there stood formerly a mill fed by water carried in a trough over the road ; on the other side a bridge over the river Wnion. The walls are the surrounding bills ; and the steeple a tree in which the church bell used to be hung. x2 308 KYMMER ABBEY. pleasant homesteads : on one side appears the bridge, and on the other extends the flat ground on which stand the relics of the antique abbey. Only a portion of the church is now to be seen ; the great hall or refectory, and a part of the abbot's residence, have resigned their more costly and spiritual charge for the less dignified, but not less necessary, avocations of a farm-house, from which are seen the lofty peaks of Cader Idris towering into the clouds. The east side is in the best state of preservation, and through its close mantle of ivy may be perceived the small narrow windows peculiar to old religious edifices. I observed also, some rather minute Gothic pillars and arches against the south wall, and an aperture, in which, pro- bably, was preserved the holy water. The space of ground within the walls is more than usually circum- scribed. According to Mr. Vaughan, the antiquary, it was founded by the grandsons of Owen Gwynedd; the monks were of the Cistercian order, and the abbey dedicated to the Holy Virgin. It may be said of her priests, as of the humble rustics by whom they were surrounded, that tradition has not commemorated "their homely joys and destiny obscure," any more than the astonishing cures or miracles which they wrought under the auspices of their lady-patroness, but few having the good fortune of the gentle Saint Winifred. The charter of the abbey offers a striking instance of the superstition of the age, and those delu- sions to which the minds of princes are equally sub- jected with that of the rudest peasant. The most ample grants, " authority over lakes, rivers, and sea* ; KYMMER ABBEY. 309 all kinds of birds and beasts, wild or tame ; mountains, woods, things moveable and immoveable ; everything upon or under the lands contained in the deed, with full liberty of digging for hidden treasures," are among the privileges of the good brethren of old. An anti- quarian of great celebrity likewise observes, with reference to their good taste, that "the abbey is situated in as pleasant a spot as ever he saw. It was, in short, a colony of monks sent away as bees are when the hive is too full. But, idle as they were, the old monks were men of exquisite taste." One of the pleasant circumstances attending my summer wanderings, was the delightful weather I en- joyed sky and air such as could not fail to delight a pedestrian's heart with clear mellow days, and serene refulgent nights, which painted the scenes before me in a thousand brilliant hues, and under a continual variety of form and aspect. To have studied the deciduous beauties of the foliage, or the vales and lakes, in the bright splendour of the season's noon, or under the mild lustre of heaven's young queen, as she " filled her horn with new-born light," would of itself have afforded ample return for lonely walks, and some toil and adven- ture, which brought me into connection with those more sequestered and wildly beautiful spots which in Wales often greet the eye of the enthusiast of nature. Nor was the pleasure diminished by thus coming oftener in contact with the primitive character and pastoral habits of the people, their appearance, and their manners, yet highly national amidst so many changes, and upon which, without destroying their form and their simplicity, the genius of improvement is happily 310 THE MAWDDACH. engrafting new ideas, and, with more general education and improved prospects, still better institutions. Re- flections on the future, which I indulged by the way- side, were thus far from an unpleasant nature ; and the recollection of what I had seen, and the onward im- pulse towards yet greater improvements, struck me more forcibly at every step. These reflections passed off like one of summer's own clouds as I left the ruinous abbey and regained the road, passing the bridge and the pretty village of Lla- nelltyd, and turning to the left for Barmouth. It is just beyond this point the eye commands a prospect of surpassing interest and loveliness, one which leaves nothing to be desired with regard to picturesque effect. The waters of the Mawddach open in front, often en- livened by skiffs and pleasure-boats; on both sides appear, agreeably alternated, a succession of wooded eminences projecting into the estuary, producing a fine scenic illusion, by concealing the termination of the river, and giving it the appearance of a wide extensive lake. To the south, from beyond the banks, are beheld the vast, majestic cliffs surrounding on all sides, and half concealing, the airy summit of Cader Idris ; and, towards the bridge, a variety of prospects stretching in an easterly direction. The herds were grazing quietly along the banks ; the white sail was just seen bending its homeward path : and to the light wanton airs, which not unfrequently frolic through a midsummer's day and relieve its fer- vours, there succeeded a solemn stillness, one of those deep, calm pauses in the stir of life, and in the very atmosphere, which momentarily is felt even in crowded THE MAWDDACH. 311 cities, but which now, pursuing my lonely way along the vale, had a singularly unwonted effect upon the mind. The feeling was more strongly impressed, also, by contrast with the richly-variegated views of hills and streams which I had that morning beheld through the strong, clear light of a brilliant sunrise, and with a beautiful rainbow, such as I had never before remarked, or even thought possible with its perfect reflection in the depth of its glorious hues upon the hills, of which the declivities shone with all the mingled colours of the radiant arch which spanned their majestic brows. It was in a deeply moralising mood, then, on that evening philosophically commenting upon the ever fresh and varying aspect of external nature, and how strangely it appeals to the heart, presenting so true a type of man's change and destiny, that I approached Pont Ddu. Upon my left flowed the bright river ; the towering summits of the giant Idris almost baflling the sight stretching far beyond; around and behind me lay the deepening, shadowy vale ; while to the right, the bold hills presented the appearance of huge moun- tain waves in the rolling mists and fast-gathering twi- light. The silvery tints and beauty of the river, pur- suing its destined path, like the current of life, through the heart of these wild and dreary mountains ; the occasional views of woods, meadows, and corn-fields, intersected by some branch streams, and again the wilder moor, the mountain hollow, the bushy dells, through which is caught at intervals some flashing cata- ract, made my walk along the Mawddach among the most interesting periods of my life. Speaking of the road from Llanelltyd to Barmouth, 312 BARMOUTH. Mr. Pratt says, " Its beauties are so manifold and ex- traordinary, that they literally beggar description. New pastures of the most exuberant fertility, new woods rising in the majesty of foliage, the road itself curving in numberless unexpected directions, at one moment shut into a verdant recess, so contracted that there seems neither carriage nor bridle-way out of it; at another, the azure expanse of the main ocean filling the eye. .On one side, rocks glittering in all the colours of that beauty which constitutes the sublime, and of an height which diminishes the wild herds that browse or look down upon you from the summit, where the largest animal appears insignificantly minute. On the other hand, plains, villas, cottages, or copses, with whatever tends to form that milder grace which belongs to the beautiful." The entrance to BARMOUTH, or Abermaw, as it is designated from its river, on the day I reached it, was particularly pleasant to me.* The weather was beau- tiful; the sunset in which I beheld the surrounding landscape, and the far more splendid and magnificent view of the bay and the sea stretching far beyond, was such as I shall not easily forget. The river, taking its course to the south of the town, is here divided into two channels, between which lies the little island, called Ynys Brawd, or the Friar's Island. I find this circumstance alluded to in the * For the sake of the lover of etymology, it may be observed that this name is derived from that of Abermaw, abbreviated into Bermaw a compound itself, formed from the name of the river Mawddach, or Maw and that of Aber, the conflux of the stream, and again corrupted, for the sake of euphony, by us barbarous English, into the modern- sounding Barmouth. BARMOUTH. 313 entertaining and accurate Itinerary of Leland, who observes, in his own quaint manner, " At the north of Maw river lyeth a little islet, scant a bow shot over, withowte habitation. At ebbe it is fresche water, and at fludde, salt." Thus was formed the harbour, which anciently, we are told, before it was inundated by the sea, occasioned by the shifting of the sands, afforded pasturage for flocks and herds. The houses are disposed in a singular and unpleasant manner on the sides of an immense sloping rock, which shelters them on the eastern side ; and whole rows appear standing on the ledges, like shelves one above another; in winding up the narrow paths among the buildings, at different stages the inhabitants may be seen standing at their doors, quietly looking over the chimneys of their neighbours. The approach is by steps cut into the rocks, the floor of one range being nearly level with that of the roof below it. There is consequently little necessity for smoking in a population so situated the lower tier regularly regaling the one next above it with strong warm puffs, more especially when the wind is in their favour. But the good people of Barmouth only in part follow the scriptural injunc- tion of "building their houses on a rock," for they show, also, a predilection for the sand, and a street has been formed close to the beach. A more inconvenient place for a town can hardly be imagined ; for the houses in the lower part are frequently half choked up with sand blown from the shore. One would not believe a site would be selected for a church where the yard should be filled with sand to the depth of three or four feet, and drifted against the church itself eight or ten, 314 BARMOUTH. on one side almost blocking up the windows : yet this I saw when I was at Barmouth last year. Barmouth was considered, to the north-west part of the kingdom, much like Wey mouth and other fashion- able watering-places are to the south, and was resorted to during the summer months, not only by families in the Principality, but many others residing in the sur- rounding counties. But Barmouth was overrated, and, as a watering-place, is now falling into decay. Only one respectable inn the Cors y Gedol Arms, and that not of a superior kind, is in the town. The sands, ex- tending along the beach for several miles, are very fine and hard, and the bathing as excellent as can be desired. The parish church is more than a mile from Barmouth ; but for public convenience a chapel of ease of which I have spoken above was erected by subscription a few years ago, where divine service is performed, in the English language, every Sunday. Barmouth is the chief haven in Merionethshire, but the entrance to the port is dangerous from the incessant shifting of the sands, particularly on the two banks called the north and south bars. To defend it from destruction by the tides, are large hillocks of sand, made firm and bound together by the friendly aid of two stringent runners, the Arundo Arenacea and Elymus Arenacea, which, spreading their long creeping roots, present a vegetable bulwark sufficient to keep back the waves. The high mountains round the harbour present the advantage to be derived from landmarks, for steering inwards during foggy weather. A pier has been con- structed for increasing the depth of water, facilitating the lading and unlading of cargoes, and buoys are placed CADER IDRIS. 315 on each bar, which tend to diminish the number of accidents, arising from sudden squalls and tempests. Spite of the natural disadvantages, however, the people of the port contrive to carry on a pretty good trade with Ireland and other parts. Having occasion to return to Dolgelley, on my route for Machynlleth, I hired a boat to convey me with the tide up the Mawddach. The windings of this wild river amidst the gigantic rocks that spring from its still wilder shores, gave it the appearance of being land- locked at the close of each succeeding reach. The foot of the giant mountain restrains its impetuous course, as it flows towards the sea, while the angry pent-up stream, rolling for ages against that rocky barrier, has formed its sides into numerous hollows and bays. On the left the mountains stretch away towards Harlech, clothed with the purple of the heath and wild thyme ; on the right rises that superb chain of rocks of which Cader Idris is the centre. Within three miles of Dolgelley the stream becomes too shallow for a boat to proceed, and the traveller has to walk or ride the remaining distance. The following morning promising a fine day, I de- termined upon making an excursion over Cader Idris. This mountain is one of the most lofty in Wales, and forms a part of the great chain of hills which runs nearly parallel with the coast for many miles, in connection with the Arrans and the Arrenings, and more inland, towards Corwen, with the Berwyn range. Proceeding over the hill which leads to Towyn, I reached a small lake, and turning to the left, commenced the ascent. After great labour for three or four hours, and conse- 316 CADER IDRIS. quent fatigue, I reached the summit; and the pool Lyn y Cae showed itself, situated among high rocks, whose weather-beaten cliffs overhang the water ; but thick mists, wafted from the sea, prevented an extended view. Mr. Aikin has enriched his narrative with a description of the grand and picturesque scene he wit- nessed, the following extract from which leaves nothing to be desired : " We were now above all the emi- nences within a vast expanse, and as the clouds gra- dually cleared away, caught some grand views of the surrounding country. The huge rocks, which we before looked up to with astonishment, were now far below our feet, and many a small lake appeared in the valleys between them. To the north, Snowdon and its depen- dencies shut up the scene ; on the west, we saw the whole curve of the bay of Cardigan, bounded at a great distance by the Carnarvon mountains, and nearer, dashing its white breakers against the rocky coast of Merioneth. The southern horizon was bounded by Plinlimmon, the bay of Swansea, the channel, peeping through the opening of the Brecon mountains ; and on the east, the eye glanced over the lake of Bala, the two Arrenig mountains, the two Arrans, and the long chain of Berwyn mountains, to the Breiddin hills on the con- fines of Shropshire. Dimly, in the distant horizon, was beheld the Wrekin, rising alone from the plain of Salop." At the foot of the mountain is the little village of Tal y Llyn, which borrows its name from the church at the head of the lake, not unmeetly denominated by the people " the Charming Retreat." The church a simple antique building is dedicated to St. Mary. The TAL Y LLYN. 317 parish extends about eight miles, embracing in its circuit a large portion of the mountainous chain. The whole vicinity, wood, and hill, and lake stirred by the winds, or clothed with the yellow hues of autumn, wore a highly picturesque yet dreary aspect; and I took great delight in exploring a number of bold, romantic streams and falls, all within the limits of this interesting district. Tal y Llyn the Head of the Lake with its little church, dedicated to St. Mary, stands at the west end of the pool, in a long valley, lying below the lofty ranges of Cader Idris. Looking north- east, the vale is contracted by the mountain bases, with their sides broken into a thousand crags, some sharp and conical, and others overhanging, as if ready to fall upon the heedless traveller, who wends his way beneath their shadows. Pen y Delyn, or the Harp Rock, is there, bearing a resemblance in its figure to that instrument, with its indented and perforated sum- mit, ready to receive the first breath of the morning, and to herald the rising beam of the Great Luminary with the fabled music of Memnon : and Llam y Ladron too, or the Thieves' Leap the Tarpeian Rock, from whose fearful top, it is said, the ancient Britons used to cast their felon brethren. Tal y Llyn for the village gives its name to the sheet of water is assuredly one of the most beautiful of lakes, and deserves all the eulogy bestowed upon it by the popular voice. It extends above one mile in length and nearly half one in breadth ; part of its boundary consists of highly cultivated pastures, rendered more picturesque from the circumstance of the higher land, which extends half way up the mountain, affording a 318 MACHYNLLETH. sheep walk. This lake is the property of Colonel Vaughan, a gentleman to whose courtesy and good- nature strangers no less than friends are indebted for the amusement of a day's angling at pleasure,* and if they prefer a sail, there is a boat at hand for their ac- commodation. Few waters furnish a better supply of trout and eels the latter considered a great delicacy, owing to the peculiar nutriment they find in the deep coating moss of the bottoms. Here are both the lake and the common river-trout, the last of which come with the streams springing from the mountains. They are chiefly taken with the fly, and vary in size from a half to two pounds each. A walk of about seven miles, through highly pic- turesque and delightful scenery, conducts the wanderer to the ancient town of MACHYNLLETH^ situated on the road leading to Aberystwith, and near the confluence of the rivers Dulas and Dovey. It is the centre of the woollen manufacture, and does considerable business in tanning occupations singularly at variance with its former military reputation. It was once the Maglona of the Romans, and had a lieutenant stationed there, in the time of Honorius, to awe the mountaineers. About two miles distant, near Penalt, is a spot deno- minated Cefn Caer, where many Roman coins have been found, and the traces are still visible of an old circular fortification. J * Medwin mentions five hundred trout having been taken in five days by three brother anglers. t Or Man cyn llaith, pronounced Mahuntleth, the place at the npper end of the flat or low land. J Mathafarn, the seat of Davydd Llwyd ap Llewelyn ap Gruffydd, MACHYNLLETH. 319 The spacious entrance to the Senate-house, now used for business, denotes a more honourable occupancy in past times. It was here the active Glendower, in 1402, summoning the nobles and gentry, advanced his title to the newly- conquered Principality. Among these came Sir David Gam, a chieftain of the county of Brecknock, who, though related to the heroic Glendower, con- ceived the base design of assassinating him in a private conference. He was discovered, and would have been instantly put to death, but for the intercession of powerful friends. He escaped on condition of joining the Welsh cause ; but the double traitor again turning against his magnanimous countryman, Owen kept him in close confinement at Machynlleth, and burnt his house to the ground. On his escape he took refuge in the English Court, attended Henry V. in his wars, and, the bard and seer, who flourished from 1470 to 1490, is on the banks of the Dovey in this parish. The earl of Richmond, in his march from Milford, lodged one night with his friend Llwyd at Mathafarn : in his anxiety for the issue of his hazardous enterprise, he privately requested the opinion of his host, who was a most distinguished prophet. The seer is said to have cautiously replied, that a question of such importance could not be immediately answered, and that he would give his reply in the morning. He was greatly perplexed by the question, and his wife (for women are generally wiser in their day and generation than their pretending lords) observed an unusual and inexplicable gravity in his manner the remainder of the evening : she inquired into the cause, and upon being informed, she exclaimed, with much astonishment, " How can you possibly have any difficulty about your answer ? Tell him that the issue of his enterprise will be most successful and glorious. If your prediction be verified, you will receive honours and rewards ; but if it fail, depend upon it he will never come here to reproach you." In November, 1644, the Parlia- mentary forces burnt Mathafarn, and reduced this part of the coun- try to subjection to the Commonwealth or protectorate of Oliver Cromwell. 320 MACHYNLLETH. on the eve of the battle of Agincourt, on returning from reconnoitring the enemy, he informed the king, that " there were enough to kill, enough to be made prisoners, and enough to run away." The Town-hall is a plain, convenient building, erected by the late Sir W. W. Wynn, in which courts leet are held twice in the year. Few Welsh towns have kept pace with the spirit of modern improvement more than Machynlleth, of which the new road to Towyn, which offers many beautiful and picturesque views, is not the least proof. The portion between Penal and Aberdovey, in particular, cut out of the solid rock, abounds in delightful prospects of the Cardigan coasts, and of the sea stretching far beyond. The aged prince and bard, Llywarch Hen, the con- temporary of the renowned Arthur, retired in his old age to a little hut at Dol-Giog, not far from this town, after having lost his " four-and-twenty brave sons, wearing the golden chain, the high-prized badge of honour of a British warrior," and his own feudal domain, in the fearful wars of those times. Here he spent the remnant of his days in company with Poverty and his Harp, not unfrequently found associated toge- ther. The aged poet is honourably recorded in the Welsh Triads, as one of " the three disinterested princes of the Isle of Britain." Who can read his plaintive elegy on his fallen fortunes without a thrill of sorrow ? "No more the mansion of delight, Cyddylaa's hall is dark to-night ; No more the midnight hour prolongs With fire and lamps, and festive songs. DINAS MAWDDWY. 321 Its trembling bards afflicted shun The hall bereaved of Cyndrwyn's son, Its joyous visitants are fled : Its hospitable fires are dead : No longer, ranged on either hand, Its dormitory couches stand : But all above, around, below, Dread sights, dire sounds, and shrieks of woe ! Awhile I'll weep Cyndylan slain, And from the weak desponding strain, Awhile I'll soothe my troubled breast, Then, in eternal silence rest." CHAPTER XVII. DI N AS MAWDDWY B ALA LLANDRI LLO WE LS H POOL MONTGOMERY. " Nature here Wantons as in her prime ; and plays at will Her virgin fancies, pouring forth more sweets, Wild above rule or art." GLOOMY wastes and far-spreading tracts of moorland, with their black turbaries intersected by walls of peat and dykes of dark waters, stretch south of Machynlleth, as far as the mountain of Plinlimmon ; these I had intended to traverse in order to explore the source of the river Wye, which rises in the midst of the bog-turf on the other side of it ;* but the weather becoming * In my volume on South Wales a detailed description is given of the varied and exquisite scenery of the river Wye, comprehending many renowned works of art, which give additional interest to sublime and interesting views. The coldest observer cannot fail being delighted with this romantic stream, here quietly gliding between hixuriant foliage there fantastically meandering over its rocky bed. 322 DINAS MAWDDWY. tempestuous, and being little acquainted with the localities, I judged it more prudent to rest awhile, and postpone this excursion till another opportunity, turning my steps towards Dinas Mawddwy and Bala. From Machynlleth a rough road, traversing mountain and moor, towards Llanidloes, passes over portions of this range of hills ; and one still more wild leads to the Devil's Bridge. There is a road on each side the river from Mach- ynlleth to Dinas Mawddwy, that on the right being the better for carriages. Each presents scenery of the most beautiful and interesting description, blending the wild and the lovely in successive pictures throughout the whole extent of the valley of the Dovey. The village of Mallwyd* the Gray stone or Rock is * The church of this village is dedicated to St. Tydecho, a saint who came into Britain from Annorica in the time of Prince Arthur. After the death of that renowned warrior, he retired to this spot, and led a most austere life, lying on the bare stones, and wearing a shirt of hair, but employing his time usefully in teaching the natives an improved system of georgics, and in giving himself to all the exercises of hospitality. Marvellous things are related of this holy man, amongst which is that of converting the brook Llaethnant, the source of the Dovey, into milk for the use of the poor in a time of great scarcity. The brook still retains its name, the signification of which is the Milk Stream, in commemoration of the miracle. Prince Maelgwyn, a fro- ward youth living at that time in this neighbourhood, ran off with the saint's oxen while they were at team ; the next day wild stags were seen performing their office, and a gray wolf harrowing after them. Maelgwyn, enraged at this, brought his milk-white dogs to chase the deer, while he sat on a blue stone to enjoy the diversion ; when he attempted to rise he found himself fixed to the rock, from which he was not released till he had most humbly begged the saint's pardon. The reader will observe that I do not vouch for the truth of these facts, as grave matters of history, but only relate them for his edification and amusement. Such, however, is veritably the legend. DINAS MAWDDWY. 323 pleasantly situated on the high road leading from Shrewsbury to Dolgelley, and within a mile and a half of Dinas Mawddwy. In the little churchyard is a yew- tree, which the chroniclers of the village, from father to son, have handed down as the patriarch of seven centuries. It has nine distinct trunks, and the circum- ference of the united branches measures upwards of two hundred feet. The stranger standing on this spot, when he looks upon the primeval rocks and " everlasting hills" that rear themselves in gigantic stature all around, feels himself more immediately in the presence of Him, " the High and Lofty One," who " bade the mountains stand fast;" but a feeling more allied to his kind springs up as he surveys the conglomerated trunk of the old yew, planted by some human hand, watered and watched with the solicitude in which he can share, commemorating, perhaps, some event, national or do- mestic, in which the same sympathies were interested that beat high and tenderly in his own breast, waving its young branches, it may be, over the head of him who first planted it ; and oh, what reflections are con- nected with looking upon a withered trunk, and the thought that it was once green and young in ages far beyond all memory ! living through generations of children and fathers, and when all these have passed away, gazed upon by him, a stranger, the heir of these past centuries. In the neighbourhood of Mallwyd are several cascades, the largest of which is at Pont Vallwyd; it is formed by the Dovey, which at this place rushes through a confined channel against a high rock, from whence it falls into a large pool below. Dinas Mawddwy is an insignificant town, pictu- Y 2 324 DINAS MAWDDWY. resquely situated on the declivity of a rock, not far from the river Cerrist at its conflux with the Dovey. It has only one long street, and the houses are low and meanly built of mud and thatched with rushes. One of its chief buildings is the "Plas," or mansion or, in other words, the manor-house of the lordship, which, I was told, belonged from an early period to the Myttons of Halston, but has more recently passed into other hands. The approach to Dinas Mawddwy, from Mallwyd, is rendered more striking by the sudden appearance of the town at the junction of three valleys, each of which is enclosed by majestic hills. Its great charm, indeed, is the novel and romantic character of the surrounding scenery. This large estate, the mano- rial rights of which extend over thirty thousand acres, was possessed for several centuries by the Myttoii family. Many years ago a lead mine was worked upon the mountain called Craig Gwyn, but soon abandoned on account of water filling up the workings, which for want of proper machinery, could not be removed. At the foot of Craig Gwyn, and extending upwards, is one of the largest slate deposits in the kingdom, denomi- nated primitive clay roofing slate. In various parts metallic veins have been discovered ; giving some hopes, therefore, that the poor, insignificant town of Dinas Mawddwy may, in a few years, become the centre of a new mining district. The Municipal Commissioners report that there are, at Dinas Mawddwy, " stocks, and a crib or little prison, which are scarcely used ; " and the municipal institutions are characterised as " trifling and harmless." That facetious member of the Antiquarian Society, DINAS MAWDDWY. 325 Mr. William Hutton, visited this neighbourhood nearly half a century ago, and published the following remarks: " The situation of Dinas Mawddwy is rgmantic, sin- gular, and beautiful, upon a small flat made by nature and improved by art, on the declivity of a mountain prodigiously elevated, on the left descending to the town, and on the right, continuing the same steep down to the river Dovey, which washes its foot. The road winds round the hill in the shape of a bow, and the houses take the same curve. Curiosity led me to count the houses, which were forty-five. One of these, by far the best, is worth, at a fair rent, perhaps fifty shillings per annum. In most of the houses I per- ceived the inhabitants could not injure themselves by falling down stairs. Although in England I appeared like other men, yet at Dinas Mawddwy I stood single. The people viewed me as a phenomenon, with counte- nances mixed with fear and inquiry. Perhaps they took me for an inspector of taxes ; they could not take me for a window-peeper, for there were scarcely any to peep at, and the few I saw were in that shattered state which proved there was no glazier in the place. Many houses were totally without glass. Ambition here seems wholly excluded. The dress of the inhabitants changes not ; it is made for use, not show. That of the softer sex, I was told, is a flannel shift. I did not see the smallest degree of smartness in the apparel even of the younger females. One of the curiosities I saw was a goat feeding, much at ease, upon the ridge of a house. Perhaps the people within did not fare much better than the goat without. Returning, well pleased with my visit, I remarked to my landlord at Mallwyd, a civil, 326 DINAS MAWDDWY. intelligent man, that I could not conceive the whole property of the united inhabitants of this celebrated town exceeded six hundred pounds. ( I can tell you to a trifle/ said he, ' for I know every one of them well/ After a short pause he replied, ( It does not exceed two hundred and forty pounds!' If care be the concomi- tant of wealth, these people must be happy; and their circumscribed style of existence seems to declare it. I saw neither a beggar nor a person in rags." Romance has never invented wilder scenes than have actually taken place in this now peaceful and almost solitary spot of earth. When the wars of the Roses had disorganized the frame of society in Britain, mul- titudes of felons and outlaws congregated in this part of the country, and under the captainship of a des- perate leader, assumed the title of the Gwylliaid Co- chion Mawddwy, the red-headed banditti of Mawddwy. For a length of time they defied the civil power, and continued to plunder and lay waste the country in open day, driving away the cattle from one province to another, and exacting a sort of Black Mail in this region of hills, and along the pastoral plain of the Dovey, somewhat after the manner of the Rob Roys of the Scottish Highlands. At last a commission was granted to John Wynn, of Gwydir, and Baron Owen, of the Welsh Exchequer, to raise a force, and put down these marauders. On Christmas Eve they made a well- planned and desperate attack upon their retreats, and succeeded in defeating them, and taking about eighty of the outlaws prisoners. Amongst these were two young men, whose mother, with a woman's earnestness, applied to the Baron for the pardon of one of them, a DINAS MAWDDWY. 327 cherished one, and the youngest. This request was denied, when the unfortunate parent, baring her neck with desperate fury, exclaimed, " These yellow breasts have given suck to those who shall wash their hands in your red blood." The opportunity was watched for putting this dreadful threat into execution, and when the baron was passing from the Great Sessions he was waylaid in the thick woods of Dugoed Mawddwy, at a place now called from this event, Llidiart y Barwn the Gate of the Baron, where several trees had been cut down, and placed abatis- ways to impede his progress. The bandits started from their concealment, and dis- charged a shower of arrows at the unfortunate party, one of which penetrated the cheek of the baron, and, in the midst of the consternation produced by this attack, they fell upon the miserable remnant that remained firm, with bills and javelins, and marking out the object of their threat, brought him to the ground almost hewn to pieces. After this tragical scene, more vigorous measures were taken, and this formidable body of robbers was either expelled or extirpated. Many a cruel deed and single-handed match of daring valour is attributed to the reckless leader of the Gwylliaid, till his name became the terror of the district, and passed into one of those household words mysteriously used by mothers, to frighten their wayward children into obedience.* * It is the fate of heroes, as well as robbers, to become the bugbears of society. " The name of Richard, king of England, which had filled the world with admiration, was used in the East, long after the time of the Crusades, to terrify refractory brats. It was a customary thing, also, for horsemen to say to their startled animals, ' You jades, do you see King Richard in that bush ? '" CLARKE'S VESTIGIA ANGLICANA. 328 RIVERS AND MOUNTAINS. " His joy was in the foray in the fight The nightly rescue and the plunder'd hall ; To drive the lowing cattle from the stall, And fire the hostile roof 'mid dreary night ; His was a lawless life, that holds in thrall All that we deem of conscience, or of right ; That rushes down the stream of passion's course, And sinks within the whirlpool of remorse." An old proverb of this place refers to the views of the inhabitants on the dismal state of society at this period. " In Mawddwy black three things remain, False men, blue earth, and ceaseless rain, Of these they'd gladly riddance gain." It may not be amiss while passing through this district of hills and streams to say a few words on the mountains and rivers of Merioneth. The county is almost covered with immense chains of primitive rocks, many being of considerable altitude, though none are so high as those of Carnarvon. The longest range commences near Corwen, and runs south-westerly to the coast. It contains the Berwyn hills, which are followed by the Arans, and continued by Cader Idris the principal summits being Cader Ferwyn, seven miles from Corweu, 2,563 feet ; Aran Fawddwy, near the source of the Wnion, six miles south of Bala lake, 2,955 feet ; and Pen y Gader, the summit of Cader Idris, near Dolgelley, 2,914 feet in height. A few miles north-westerly of Bala, a large group of moun- tains rise, of which Arenig is the highest, being 2,809 feet above the sea. Hills also cover the whole extent of the westerly part of the county ; among the highest summits may be named Moelwyn, near Ffestiniog, BALA. 329 2,390 feet ; Rhinog Fawr, near Harlech, 2,345 feet ; and Tan y rallt, near Llanelltyd, 2,200 feet high. Of rivers, Merioneth boasts the Dee, the Maw or Mawddach, and the Dyfi or Dovey. The Dee flows from Bala lake,* and runs past Corwen and Llangollen to Chester, beyond which city it enters the sea; it receives many streams, the principal of which are the Treweryn and the Alwen. The Mawddach rises near Trawsfynydd, and running southward a great number of mountain torrents and the river Wnion become its tributaries, till it joins the ocean at Barmouth. The Dovey has its source on Aran Fawddwy ; it flows past Dinas Mawddwy and Machynlleth, beyond which it mingles its waters with those of Cardigan Bay. The largest lakes are Tal y Llyn and Bala. The road from Dinas Mawddwy presents a continued series of varied scenery, at one time rude and majestic, at another picturesque and lovely. It continues along the valley of the Dovey, on an uninterrupted ascent, for four or five miles, soon after which the high ground is reached called Bwlch y Groes, from whence is a descent through the narrow valley of the Twrch to Bala lake. Pennant designates the pass of Bwlch y Groes " one of the most terrible in North Wales ; " since his time, however, the road has been much improved. On look- ing westerly the high peaks of Aran Mawddwy and Aran Bennllyn are seen rising among this region of * It is sometimes stated that the Dee rises four miles easterly of the lake through which it flows. But this appears very absurd when it is known that several streams swell the waters of Pemble Meer ; the longest rivers entering it are the Twrch and Lliw, which unite at the eastern end, and the Llafar, which runs from the northward. 330 BALA. hills. On reaching the level ground, the road is con- tinued along the south shore of the lake to Bala. The town of BALA has only one street of importance, the houses of which are low and of mean appearance, built near the north corner of the lake. It has con- siderable trade in the manufacture of flannels, stock- ings, woollen comfortables, and Welsh wigs, and has five fairs annually. Near the town is an artificial mount, called Tommen y Bala, of Roman construction, to which the natives resort, during fine weather in sum- mer, for the purpose of knitting, and enjoying the delightful scenery around. Bala, and its fine, expansive lake (called by the natives Llyn Tegid), have attractions peculiar to them- selves. To appreciate them as they deserve, the tra- veller should first ascend the craggy summit of the neighbouring mountain, and gaze upon the rude glens beyond, through which the boisterous Twrch rushes in a succession of resounding falls. It is by contrasting the wilder and fiercer tracts of the landscape with its milder features round the quiet hamlet and lake, that we add fresh zest to the interchange of feelings ever open to the Cambrian traveller. Bala lake is the most extensive in Wales, being nearly four miles in length, and three-quarters of one in breadth, its banks conse- quently embracing a circuit of about nine miles. Its greatest depth is forty feet ; and the water is said to be so pure, that the nicest chemical tests can detect scarcely any foreign admixture. Be that as it may, the lake has abundance of pike, perch, trout, eels, and roach, with shoals of a fish called BALA. 331 gwyniad,* so named from the extreme whiteness of its scales. It is a gregarious fish, often found in the Alpine lakes, more especially those of Switzerland, and .dies soon after its taken. Its weight rarely exceeds four pounds, and its flavour is by many persons con- sidered rather insipid ; a circumstance that by no means recommends the gallantry of Lord Lyttelton, when he assures his friends that it is so exquisitely delicate as to more than rival in flavour the lips of the fair maids of Bala themselves.f But, being so very good, and, like the ladies of Bala, perhaps, sensible of their attractions, these fish have the shrewdness to keep out of harm's way, as we are told, by remaining at the bottom of the water, where they feed on small shells and aquatic plants, from which scarcely any bait will induce them to emerge; they are, therefore, principally taken by nets. The angler may always be certain that, while a cloud rests on Aran, he may save himself the trouble * Lloyd, in his "Breviarie of Britayne," calls it "the great lake Tegid, through whiche the river Dee, whiche wee call Douerduuy, that is to say, the water of the Dee, floweth. Where it is worthe the notyng, that there is in that ponde a peculiar kinde of fish, which is never founde in the runnynge water ; neither the salmons, whereof the river is full, doo ever entre into the lake. In this country, and in Arfon, are scene greate multitude of deare, and goates upon the high hilles." f It is a matter of no small wondernment what opportunity the gallant lord could have had of instituting such a comparison, when he writes in another part of his letter to Archibald Bowyer : " But what Bala is famous for is the beauty of its women and, indeed, I saw there one of the prettiest girls I ever beheld ; but such is my virtue, that I have kissed none since I came into Wales, except an old maiden lady, a sister of Mr. Brynker, at whose house I now lodge, and who is the ugliest woman of her quality in Great Britain ; but I know a duchess or two I should be still more afnlid of kissing than her." 332 BALA. of fishing in the lake. In former times the fishery is stated to have formed part of the possessions attached to Basingwerk Abbey, but has since fallen into the hands of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, who has pitched his tent, in the shape of a neat sporting-box, quite according to the Irish rule, " convanient to the spot." Though now so calm and beautiful reflecting all the quiet and clearness of the heavens upon its breast, as the swallow skimmed its glassy surface, and the wild-fowl sought their home in its little bays and creeks the aspect of Bala Lake, when the storm is up, and " the winter wild " puts on his terrors, can assume a very different kind of beauty. To see it when the autumnal winds ruffle its broad expanse with billows, or the clouds discharge their contents as fiercely as the torrent from the hills when the drifting rack and snow-storm mingle the last leaves of the year with the scattered beauty of the meads and gardens, the ob- server can no longer recognise the least resemblance in the characteristics of the two landscapes the Bala of the opposite seasons. Upon the north-east side, the water sometimes rises many feet above its usual level. When the winds and the rains, as I was informed, " meet and combine the whole of their forces," it is a grand sight to see the lake overshoot its banks, and rush beyond into the valley of old Edeirnion. Once, in the month of June, 1781, a part of the vicinity is believed to have been inundated by one of those singular occurrences, the bursting of an overcharged cloud, called a waterspout, which, however frequently beheld at sea, seldom visits the land. It was attended by terrific lightning and BALA. 333 continuous rain, which caused the Twrch fed by tor- rents from the Bwlch y Groes hills to overflow and sweep everything before it. The spoils of fields and villages, and even human life, marked the progress of the flood ; and as far as Corwen the rising of the rivers suddenly burst on the ear of the affrighted people. The scene round Bala is recorded by the old inhabitants as heart-rending and terrific. The deep and dismal chasm, spanned by the one-arched bridge through which the stream of the Llin pours its flood down the wildest rocky falls, exhibited a magnificent sight, swelled by the mountain rains into one immense volume of foam- ing cataract, which again bursting from its black and caverned bed through the wooded glens beyond, rolled its unusual mass of burdened torrents to join the waters of the Twrch. Along the course of the Dee, huge branches, and some of the large forest-trees themselves, which threw a gloomier shadow over the stormy scene, were uprooted by the maddening storm and launched into the yawning flood. The lake rose with the im- pulse of the storm till it assumed the aspect of a wild and restless sea, keeping stern music with the crashing of the neighbouring woods and the whistling of the blast, while, drowning the roar of the torrent, the thunder ever and anon startled the ear, and occasional flashes illuminating the sky, exhibited for a moment the lurid and dreadful scene to view. Quitting Bala, and its expansive lake and scenery, differing so much from all other Cambrian llyns and glens, I proceeded by the side of the river Dee, along the road leading to Corwen,* till I reached the village * Of which an account will be found in this volume. 334 LLANDDERFEL. of Llandrillo. Four miles from Bala, the river is crossed by Pont Llandderfel, the village being a short distance northward. The church of this place, accord- ing to the old Chronicle, had the honour of containing a large image of Derfel Gadarn, its patron saint, and the Welsh prophesy ran, that this wooden likeness would some day make a whole forest blaze. However, on the execution of Doctor Forest, for^ treason and denying the king's supremacy, in 1538, it was taken from its nook, removed to London, and put under the unhappy friar, to excite the fuel when he was burned at Smith- field.* To the stake on which he suffered was affixed the following elegy : David Darfel Gatheren, As say th the Welshmen, Fetched outlaws out of hell : Now is he come, with spere and shield, In harnes, to burn in Smithfield, For in Wales he may not dwell. And Forest the fryar, That obstinate lyar, That wilfully shall be dead, In his contumacie, The Gospel dothe deny And the Kinge to be supreme head. HALLE'S CHRONICLE, ccxxxiii. Those quiet way-side hamlets, upon which the tra- veller unexpectedly comes, sometimes after a weary walk of almost unbroken solitude, possess a charm peculiar to themselves, and especially in the Princi- * On his arraignment Forest replied to the court, in answer to the proof of perjury against him, in having before taken the oath : " I took the oath with my outivard man, but my inward man never con- sented to it." HoLiNSHEb, vol. ii. 945. VALE OF EDEIRNION. 335 pality. LLANDRILLO is one of these little refreshing spots of earth ; it stands on the eastern banks of the Dee, in "the matchless vale of Edeirnion," as Mr. Pennant calls it, near the torrent Ceidio, and rises at the very mouth of the romantic glen of Bwlch Cwm. The river rolls its restless onward course to the north ; and on the south, at the extremity of the glen, the bulky range of the Berwyn closes up the scene. This is the old road to Corwen, which Mr. Bingley describes as being in his time " almost impassable/ 5 It is about thirteen miles and a half in length ; but there is one of more recent formation which is little more than eleven. The old road, however, has so many beautiful scenes to attract the eye of the traveller, that he will find him- self amply repaid for the increased distance, as he bends and winds with the course of the murmuring Dee flow- ing through the luxuriant vale of Edeirnion. Few excursions surpass the pleasant walk along this valley, which comprehends or connects every feature of gran- deur, beauty, and interest that can embellish the face of nature, and where everything is found that gives a charm to pastoral beauty the dense wood, the bright river, the wild, gloomy rocks in the distance, partially covered with purple heath and thyme, with the mani- fold attributes of landscape scenery, blended and dis- posed in a series of rich and varied prospects. From Llandrillo I passed by a footpath over the mountains immediately between Cader Fronwen and Cader Ferwyn, two eminences in the range of the great Berwyn hills.* Turning thence to the right, on reach- * These would seem to be mere variations of the same generic name, bestowed, probably, by the popular taste for the sake of euphony, 336 LLANRHAIDR YN MOCHNANT. ing the summit of these Alpine heights, a short walk of two miles brought me within view of the grand water- fall called Pistyll Khaiadr, at least two hundred feet in height ; and though destitute of the luxuriant foliage which decorates and harmonizes some other cataracts, it possesses an irresistible charm in the stern sim- plicity of its descent down the flat face of a bleak, naked, barren rock, raging through a granite arch and gathering its boiling waters into the stony hollow at its foot. It is formed by the little river Rhaiadr, which, after the boisterous raging of the falls, quietly murmurs through a sylvan dell, and, dividing the counties of Denbigh and Montgomery, soon unites with the river Tanat. Near the waterfall is a pleasant little inn, built by the late Sir W. W. Wynn. A farther walk of four miles, through the bold valley of Mochnant, presents to the eye the picturesque village of Llanrhaidr yn Mochnant, encompassed by mountains of varied form and colour, blending well with the character of the scene. The parish in which this little village is situated has been long noted for its vicars, among whom was the learned Dr. Morgan already mentioned, the trans- lator of the Bible into his native tongue, and succes- sively bishop of Llandaff and of St. Asaph ; and the no less erudite and more facetious Dr. South. Not having space for the purpose here, I must be content to refer my readers to the biography of this learned divine for some interesting anecdotes not a few of them, also, very amusing, which will amply repay the perusal. of which we may perceive numerous examples in the rural nomen- clature of the Principality. WELSHPOOL. 337 Montgomeryshire does not present to the wanderer the attractions of Merioneth and Carnarvon. The moun- tainous portion is an extensive tract, including the southern part of the Berwyn range from Bwlchy Groes to Cader Ferwyn the chain of hills which extends along the Dovey from Bwlch y Groes southward to Plinlimmon and the Kerry hills extending towards Bishop's Castle. The most important river is the Severn, which rises on Plinlimmon. At Llanidloes it receives the Clywedog, and afterwards passes the towns of Newtown and Welshpool, beyond which, near the border of the county, it is joined by the Vyrnwy, a little below which this important river leaves the principality after a course of fifty miles, and enters Shropshire. The southern part of the county is watered by the Wye, which also rises on Plinlimmon, and becomes tributary to the Severn below Chepstow. About twenty miles from Llanrhaidr, I approached WELSHPOOL, the most spacious and important of the towns of Montgomeryshire. It has one main street, crossed by small ones at right angles, and the houses are neat and well built. The language spoken, and the manners of the people, are almost altogether English. The church singularly situated in a hollow of the hill, with a cemetery as high as itself is built in the pointed, but not ancient, style, and dedicated to St. Mary. It is surrounded by a strong wall fifteen feet high, which in the summer months is covered by the choicest flowers of nature. The county hall, a modern edifice, is erected in the centre of the town, and presents an elegant appearance, having a handsome front, with a colonnade and pilasters of stone. There 338 POWIS CASTLE. is every convenience for the administration of justice, and no less for the accommodation of the people. The Severn is navigable for barges to a place called Pool Quay, a mile from the town, and upwards of two hun- dred miles from its mouth in the Bristol channel. " Betwixt the town and Castell Coch," says old Leland, " is a pretty llyn or pool, whereof the town takes its name." Powis Castle, the seat of the earl of Powis, is situated on an eminence, about a mile south of Welshpool ; one of the outer entrances to the park being on the very edge of the town. A considerable portion is built of red stone, from which" the natives call it Castell Coch, or the Ked Castle. It is an extensive and venerable building, without much pretensions to architectural taste, and has been greatly extended and improved by the present noble owner. The original building was commenced in 1109, by Cadwgan ap Cynfyn, who was murdered by his nephew, and left the building unfinished. It was continued by Gwenwynwyn, who was governor of this part of Powys land. Llewelyn ap lorwith dismantled the castle in 1233. It was again completed, and remained in the possession of Owen ap Gryffydd. On his demise he left a daughter, whose claims were disputed ; but being shortly afterwards married, the king ennobled her hus- band by the title of Baron Powys ; and the estates continued for several centuries in the possession of their descendants. At the time of the Civil Wars, in the seventeenth century, Percy, Lord Powys, declared for the Royal cause, and garrisoned his castle, of which he took the command in person. He was, however, com- POWIS CASTLE. 339 pelled to surrender to the Parliamentary forces, under General Myddleton, in 1644. On this occasion the walls were greatly damaged by the cannon of the assailants, the place pillaged, and the noble owner him- self taken prisoner. The castle and lordship were confiscated to the use of the Parliament ; but the proprietor afterwards compounded for and obtained possession of them again. The magnitude of this elevated pile of building is observed, with the greatest effect, on the road leading towards Montgomery, whence its embattled turrets are seen rising above the magnificent trees by which they are nearly surrounded. I was delighted with my ramble over different parts of the park, which is formed of gently rising hills clothed with trees, and pleasant lawns where the dappled deer added to the charm of the scene. From the upper part, in clear weather, the distant mountains of Plinlimmon, Cader Idris, Aran- Mawddy, and Snowdon, are seen, and their several situations are pointed out by an index suitably placed for that purpose. The principal entrance is a gateway between two massy round towers. In front it is approached by two immense terraces, rising one above the other by a flight of steps, adorned with statues, vases, and other ornaments. On the walls and grand staircase are some very fine paintings, in fresco, by Lanscrome, representing the coronation of Queen Anne, and various mythological and allegorical subjects. The apartments on the ground floor are rather gloomy, from the great thick- ness of the walls. The views from the windows of the dining and drawing rooms are very fine, presenting z 2 340 POWIS CASTLE. the extensive and richly-wooded park, the vistas opening at intervals, the valley of the Severn, and a wide extent of country, including the Breiddin hills, which are surmounted by three peaks, on one of which is built the obelisk commemorating the victory of Admiral Lord Rodney over the French fleet, in the West Indies, in 1782. Lord Olive's collection of paintings, particularly por- traits, is numerous. Those by Sir Peter Lely are very fine, and in excellent preservation. I think the most interesting pictures are the portraits of the duchess of Powis, King Charles II., that eccentric genius Lord Herbert of Cherbury, and Henrietta, queen of Charles I. There is a full-length portrait of Roger Palmer, earl of Castlemain, the husband of that intriguing beauty, the Duchess of Cleveland. He is drawn according to the costume of the time, in a black wig and scarlet mantle, and is in the act of dictating to his secretary, when envoy from James the Second to the pope. The object he had in view was to obtain a pardon from his holiness for the sin of heresy into which these realms had fallen. The pope himself could not conceal his ridicule of such a proceeding as the attempt to reconcile the two dis- severed churches, and he was invariably seized with a fit of coughing when the earl touched upon his embassy. At length, wearied with delay, the earl gave notice to his holiness that he was about to pack up his credentials and quit Rome; and with equal coolness the repre- sentative of St. Peter replied, that in that case he would, with the most cordial affection, recommend him " to set off early in the morning, and to rest at noon, POWIS CASTLE. 341 lest by over excitement, arid the effect of the heat, he should chance to endanger his health/' The aspect of the scenery around, like that of the mansion, has more recently partaken of the new and more natural manner of setting-off the advantages of nature combined with art. The gardens have been laid out with parallel terraces, and squared slopes, but the fountains and spouting dolphins, with the formal lines of fancifully clipped shrubs, which belonged to its ancient state, have disappeared. For the artist who delights in wild forest scenery, or pastoral quiet, Powis Park will supply a continued treat. The verdant spreading lawns, the swelling hills, and rich variety of sylvan views, together with the distant hills and woods mingling with the sky, at the moment I contemplated them, in the soft glow of a summer's eve, shed a benign influence over the mind. It was with singular pleasure that I listened to the commendations given with earnestness and good-will, when no interest was to be derived of the kind deport- ment and benevolent disposition uniformly displayed by the proprietor of Powis Castle, and of his sense of justice, his liberality to many in time of need, and the manner in which he steps forward to promote the happiness and improvement of his tenantry. At a short walk from Welshpool is the beautiful vale of Cyfeiliog, and, at the foot of the Breiddin hills, the ruins'* of the Cistercian Monastery, called Ystrad Mar- * The monks of this abbey had become proud, indolent, and luxurious, at the time when Cynddela Brydydd Mawr was the bard to Madog ap Meredydd, Prince of Powis, and the satirical poet made 342 VALE OF CYFEILIOG. chell, founded in 1170. To the north of Welshpool are seen, rising sternly above the valley, Moel y Golfa, Craig Breiddin, and the triforked summits of a rock more than one thousand feet in height. On the loftiest peak stands the obelisk erected to commemorate the great victory achieved by Rodney. Here I caught the distant views of the solitary Wrekin, the vast chain of contiguous hills, the summits of Snowdon on the north, and Cader Idris to the west. The vale, through which the Severn pursues its course, is beheld extending far below. The way to Newtown, through the valley, almost parallel with the river, and studded with pleasant villages, surmounted by richly wooded hills, on one of which rises a little temple, presents many lovely views. On this occasion, instead of turning to the left when about a mile from Welshpool, and taking the direct road to Montgomery, I proceeded on that towards Newtown as far as the village of Aberhiw or Berriew. On my left ran the Severn, and to my right, just above the road, rose a succession of lofty hills, richly clothed with wood; and nearer, the Montgomeryshire canal, which frequently intersects the road, is caught at inter- vals by the eye. From Berriew again, leaving the road to Newtown, I took the path to the left, and, at a short distance, crossed the bridge over the Severn. It was these vices the subject of some severe animadversions. The good abbot was so offended at the bard, that when he lay on his death-bed, one of the order was despatched to inform him that his body would not be admitted for burial within the precincts of the abbey. Cynddela wrote some lines in answer to this message which the Myoyrian Archaesology has versified thus : "My soul, ye monks, ye would not save, Since thus ye grudge my corpse a grave." CASTLE OF MONTGOMERY. 343 here, on proceeding a little way, that I observed, on the top of an eminence, on the other side of which lies the town, the picturesque effect of the ruins of the noble castle to which I was approaching. How strange a contrast to the fast-decaying monument of feudal days, and the associations it conjured up, did the whole scene exhibit, in the neat well-conducted inn, the modern roads branching in various directions, and the farm- house and yard usurping the old feudal tenure of baronial sway ! No spot in the principality is more memorable in Cambrian history, for the singular events, the wild and daring feats of arms, the fierce contests, and succession of masters, which the Castle of MONTGOMERY witnessed from the very foundation of the fortress to the period of the Civil Wars. The first strong-hold of the Marches was erected by Baldwyn (from whom the place was termed Tre Faldwyn, or Baldwyn's Town), a lieutenant of the Conqueror, to overawe the Welsh, though its strength was not unfrequently turned against its original masters. It was again wrested from them by Roger Montgomeiy, earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury, who, invading Powys land, took the town and castle, and, restoring their fortifications, gave to both the proud name which he bore. Yet, in one short year, with the surrounding country, it fell to the Welsh, who defied the power of William Eufus, and compelled the Nor- mans to an ignominious retreat. Spite of a brave resistance, the Welsh, having levelled the walls, carried the place by storm ; and it was not till after four years' incessant struggle that they were again driven to the mountains. The castle was rebuilt by the earl of 344 CASTLE OF MONTGOMERY. Shrewsbury, and a century elapsed ere it again fell before the fiery Britons. Subsequently, as at all previous periods, the fertile lands of Powys were esteemed too great a prize to be relinquished, and they became the battle-field not only of rival lords, but of princes and kings. Here, as in all great actions, which threw a lustre on his country, the last of the Llewelyns met the banded hosts of England, and reaped that fame in arms which, soon allied him to the royal House of the Norman Conquerors, and gave a transitory gleam of peace and prosperity to his suffering country. Sum- moned as a vassal to appear before the court of King Henry III., the prince replied by laying siege to the town, which he raised only at the approach of the king at the head of an immense army, before which he was compelled to retire after a severe conflict, but which he again harassed on its return. It was at this time that Henry restored the castle upon a site deemed so impreg- nable, and with such lines of defence, as would prove an effectual barrier to the future progress of the war- like prince. Having placed in it a powerful garrison, and given the command to his grand justiciary, Hubert de Burgh, with honours and emoluments from the lord- ship of the Marches, the king withdrew in the idea that he had chastised the insolence of the lawless Welsh, and fixed a sharp curb on their predatory career. Hardly had the royal leader reached the borders, watched by his wary foe, before numbers of the Welsh, pouring from their hills in the rear, boldly faced the new-built fortress frowning from its rock-based height, and, eager to achieve some brilliant action, while their prince observed the retiring foe, they surrounded CASTLE OF MONTGOMERY. 345 and summoned it to surrender. Maddened by such an insult from a " a wilde horde of Welshmen," the blood of De Burgh boiled to revenge it; and sallying forth with the whole of his veteran garrison, by feigning at first to be worsted, he drew the Welsh further into his toils, and turning on his assailants while another party took them in flank, a desperate and unsparing conflict ensued. But it could not be long doubtful ; and so surely had the grand justiciary taken his measures, and relied on their success, that even the ladies of the castle, surrounding the young and beautiful countess De Burgh, had been, as at a tourna- ment, witnesses of the bold sally with as much pleasure as if at a contested election or a lord-mayor's day in our own times ; and they were as eager to adorn the battlements with the heads of the wild men as with the ribands of some favourite candidate at present. The knowledge of being marked by the eyes of beauty sharpened the edge of Norman chivalry, and many a heart beat high, and fair bosoms heaved with love and pride, as the colours conferred on some favourite youth flew foremost in the frightful slaughter of the undisci- plined mountaineers. Individual valour could no longer meet the shock of the Norman; the rout was terrible, and great numbers of the Welsh were barbarously be- headed. The lovely countess averted her eyes from the sight; nature and humanity triumphed, though she sought to disguise her tears and terror from her less scrupulous companions. It is recorded, that to retaliate so foul an injury, Llewelyn ap lorweth collected together numerous forces from various parts of Wales, and encamped 346 CASTLE OP MONTGOMERY. on the side of the hill on which the castle is built. De Burgh, being intimidated, privately withdrew; and Llewelyn, gaining possession of the place, put the gar- rison to the sword, and burnt the fortress. The life of the countess was preserved by the skill and intrepidity of a few trusty knights and retainers, who conducted her safely out of the castle, by a postern gate, the evening before Llewelyn obtained an entrance. Burning to avenge the destruction of their country- men, the Welsh rushed into the castle, putting every living thing to the sword. The sight of hundreds of trunkless heads, strewn on all sides, roused them to the highest pitch of fury, and all the magnificence and beauty of the newly-erected castle became a prey to the flames. Not less indignant than his followers, Llewelyn afterwards levelled its blackened walls with the earth. A series of undecisive contests ensued, till, at length, in the year 1268, a conference was held at the very spot where these events took place, and a peace concluded between Henry and the Welsh, through the interposition of the pope's legate, and signed in the once more restored and stately castle of Montgomery. This treaty was ratified by the respective princes in person, and received Pope Clement's sanction. The lands on both sides were restored ; and due fealty and homage, with the more solid honour of twenty-five thousand marks, paid to the English king. In 1345, the castle and manor of Montgomery, then comprised in the hundred of Cherbury, were in pos- session of Roger Mortimer ; and after his attainder, though restored to the family, they eventually passed into the Royal House of York, by the marriage of CASTLE OF MONTGOMERY. 347 Anne, heiress of the last earl, whence they came into the possession of the crown. The castle appears subse- quently to have been held in stewardship by the ances- tors of Lord Herbert of Cherbury ; and it became the principal residence of that family. During the civil wars, it was garrisoned for Charles the First, who appointed Lord Herbert its governor; but, on the approach of the parliamentary general, he took the opposite side. The ruins now seen are part of the bold and lordly pile as it then stood, on the extremity of an impending eminence to the north of the town. The fragment of a tower, and some scattered walls alone attest its former splendour and magnificence. The walls appear to have been of an immense thickness, which must have caused the interior to wear a gloomy appearance. They, however, give us some idea of the formidable strength, combined with isolated grandeur, and of the false magnificence of the too much extolled age of chivalry. The castle was defended by four deep fosses, cut out of the solid rock, over which drawbridges appear to have been thrown by way of security. The approach was by four shorter moats, with two entrances to the main work. The view from the sum- mit embraces a large extent of country, the greater part of which with its serfs and vassals, was at one period under the despotic sway of its lords. At the foot of the hill is traced a small fortification, with a sort of artificial mount raised on one side. This has been conjectured to be the site of its ancient founda- tion, by Baldwyn, bearing evident marks of the Nor- man fashion. Leland says, that in the fifteenth ceil- 348 MONTGOMERY. tury the town was encircled by an immense wall, flanked with towers, and four massy gates, to protect the castle viz., " Kedewen Gate, Chirbury Gate, Arthur's Gate, and Kerry Gate, and some remains of broken turrets, of which the White Tower is the most notable." The church, an elegant building in the form of a cross, contains an ancient monument to the memory of Richard Herbert, father to the celebrated baron of the same name, and to Magdalen, his wife. Two recum- bent figures repose under a magnificent canopy, and in front are seen the effigies of their numerous family. The town of Montgomery has an air of pecu- liar neatness and gentility, not very usual in the principality. It is chiefly inhabited by persons of middle rank, or small fortune, some of whom have selected it by way of economy, and some for " learned leisure;" they have everything which reason and nature can supply, and a succession of lovely and luxu- riant scenes around them to charm the sight, with the rich prospect of Salopian woods and mountains gra- dually fading into the clouds. I no longer wondered at the enthusiastic eulogies bestowed upon it by dif- ferent travellers, or that it should have been the favou- rite retreat of the sometime studious, sometime mad, yet witty in his eccentricities " all things by turns, and nothing long," of that true essence of nobility the Lord of Cherbury. A native of Montgomery, born in 1583, he was one of those geniuses who, like Swift, show no precocious maturity. Far from this, he says he was puny, and- so backward in his speech that it was feared he would be dumb ; but, he adds, that he knew MONTGOMERY. 349 what was said by others, and only refused to speak lest he should talk nonsense. As he got older, how- ever, it seems that he pushed his way in the world very well ; not merely mastering languages, but physic, music, and every other science if we are to believe him for which he took a fancy. When made a Knight of the Bath, he vowed that he would act up to his oath of knighthood, and permit no injustice to be done ; that in case any lady or gentleman had the slightest com- plaint on the score of injured honour, he would see it well redressed. And he sometimes kept his word, as the thousand strange incidents and situations through which he passed, in his varied life of a soldier, a tra- veller, statesman, ambassador, adventurer, and recluse, must have offered him numerous occasions of doing to his heart's content. How singular that the very man who attempted to explode all belief in revelation as gross enthusiasm, should himself be one of the most extraordinary enthusiasts of his own or any time, and should publish a work on Truth, the Latin title of which he caused to be engraven upon his tomb ! Lord Herbert " is said to have been the first author who reduced deism into a regular system, in which he as- serted, and endeavoured to prove, the sufficiency, uni- versality, and absolute perfection of natural religion, without the aid of supernatural or extraordinary com- munication of the Divine will." Yet this same man, when he had finished his work, " De Veritate," is stated to have put up a solemn prayer for a sign from heaven to determine him upon his publication, and that he interpreted a sudden noise as an imprimatur. " There is no stronger characteristic of human nature, 350 MONTGOMERY. than its being open to the strangest contradictions : one of Lord Herbert's chief arguments against revealed religion is, the improbability that heaven should reveal its will to only a portion of the earth, which he terms particular religion. How could a man, who doubted of partial, believe individual revelation ? What vanity to think his book of such importance to the cause of truth, that it could extort a declaration of the Divine will, which the interests of half mankind could not ! " * Half a mile from Montgomery is Lymore Lodge, one of the old seats of the Powis family. It is a very old building, chiefly of wood, and was once the residence of the before-mentioned Lord Herbert. It is sur- rounded by an extensive park, containing some large pools, well stocked with fish, and, also, with wild fowl during the season. From this place there is a pic- turesque and striking view of the town of Montgomery, calmly reposing on the side of a hill, whose summit towers above, and is partly covered with trees. The church and ruins of the castle form prominent objects in the scene. Near this town is Cefn Digol, a mountain famous in Welsh history, and consecrated by the last contested battle for the liberties of the principality in the time of the victorious Edward. Madoc, prince of this country, after the death of Llewelyn at Builth, had been chosen captain by the men of North Wales, and had beaten several detachments of the marchers, and routed the force under Lord Strange. The prince, flushed with the victories he had obtained, was marching to * Lord Orford's " Eoyal and Noble Authors," vol. iii. p. 16. CEFN DIGOL. 351 Shrewsbury, when he was met " upon the hills of Cefn Digol," by the English army in great strength. The ground was favourable to the national mode of fighting, and a desperate battle followed. Armed with his light target and javelin, the active Welshman combated hand to hand with the heavy brand and dagger of the sturdy Saesnach. From hill-side and mountain-top the tide of war rolled its bloody streams, during that long battle-day ; but Madoc's army was finally routed, the prince taken prisoner, and the long-resisted con- quest of Cambria secured by the slaughter of the patriots of Cefn Digol. The page of history that stained page the green-turfed tumulus, and the Bard's chaunt, are all that remain of these life-and-death struggles continued through so many generations. " Warriors I saw who led the fray, Stern desolation strew'd their way ; Aloft the glittering blades they bore, Their garments hung with clotted gore, The furious thrust, the clanging shield, Confound the long-disputed field." " Rest, ye brave dead, 'midst the hills of your sires, Oh who would not slumber when Freedom expires Lonely and voiceless your halls must remain, The children of song may not breathe in the chain." INDEX. ABER, 167 Welsh drover, 167 . Historic reminiscences, 170. ABERFFRAW, 144 The palace of the old Welsh princes, 144. ABERGELET, town of, 56 "The Bee," 56 Church of, 56 Neigh- bourhood of, 56. ABERGLASLYN, pass of, 261 Stone of Ehys G6ch, 262 Bridge of, 262 Old story, 263 -Chasm and precipice, 263 Crystal sellers, 264 Stream of, 289. ANGLESEY, 165. AMLWCH, 164. BALA, town of, 330 Lake of, 330 Lake fish, 330 Ladies of Bala, 331 Overflowing of the waters, 332. BANGOR, antiquity of, 126 Pro- spect from, 127 Cathedral of, 127 Welsh service, 128 Anian, bishop, 129 Tomb of Prince Owen Gruffydd, 129 Central position of Bangor, 129. BARDSEY, isle, 276 The resort of pilgrims, 277 The burial-place of saints, 277 Fete champetre at, 278. BARMOUTH, entrance to, 312 Ynys Brawd, 312 Singular disposition of the houses, 313 A watering- 2 place, 314 Port of 313 Sand- hills, 314. BASINGWERK, abbey of, 34 Its po- sition, 34 By whom founded, 34 Castle of, 35. BEAUMARIS, fine road to, 153 Cadnant, 154 Modern appear- ance of, 155 Facetious waiter, 155 Magnificent castle of, 157 Eisteddfod, 158 The church, 158 Market-day, 159 Neigh- bourhood of, 159 Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, 160 Lleiniog, 162 Penm6n, 161. BEDDGELERT, site of, 248 Mill, 248 Beautiful scenery of, 248 So- cial evening at, 249 Church of 251 Gelert, 252 Eeminiscences of, 253 Ascent of Snowdon, 253 Lakes, 254 Cascades on the Colwyn, 269. BERRIEW, village of, 342. BERWYN HILLS, 103 and 335. BETTWS Y COED, road to, 197 Royal oak, 206 Romantic glen, 207 Moel Siabod, 208 Reli- gious worship, 214 Church of, 215 Welsh names, 217 Rhaiadr y Wennol, 218. BODLEWYDDAN, Gothic gateway of, 57 Architecture of, 57 View from the turrets, 58. A 354 INDEX. CADER FERWYN, 335. CADER IDRIS, view of from Nannau park, 306 Excursion to, 315 Llyn y Cae, 316 Aikin's de- scription of, 316 Extensive view from, 316. CAER KHUN, 185. CAERWTS, a Roman station, 44 Celebrated for Eisteddvods, 44 Maesinynan Wort, 44 Character of the Welsh peasantry, 45 Mrs. Hemans, 45. CANTREF GWAELOD, 288. CAPEL CURIG, 221 Curig, 222 Splendid scenery from, 223. CARACTACUS, his castle, 114 His oration at Rome, 115. CARNARVON, position of, 136 The terrace, 137 Harbour of, 137 Trade of, 137 Market- house, 138 Bathing-place, 138 Llanbeblig, 138 Tomb of William Gryffudd, 138 Churchyard, 139. CARNARVON CASTLE, built by Ed- ward I., 139 Description of, 139 Eagle tower, 140 Queen's gate, 140 State apartment, 141 Imaginative retrospect, 142. CARNARVONSHIRE, scenery of, 238 Forts of, 239 Mountain ranges of, 239 Rivers of, 240 Lakes of, 241. CARNEDD Y GWYNT, 226 Wild sce- nery, 227. CARRES Y GWALCH, mountain of, 200 Ogof ap Shenkin, 201 David ap Jenkin, 202. CASTELL DIN AS BRAN, 130 Height of site, 100 A primitive Welsh castle, 1 01 Gryffudd ap Madoc 101 Seized by Glendower, 101 Mevanwy Fechan, 102 Thoughts on, 102. CASTELL GEIFR, 227. CERNIOGE, 114 Excellent inn at, 116 Llyn Cwrt, 116. CERRIG Y DRUIDION, 114. CHESTER, " City of the Legions," 6 Singular formation of, 7 Mo- dern history of, 7 Division of, 8 Picturesque appearance of, 8 Julius Caesar's Tower, 8 Rows, 8 Shire Hall, 8 County Gaol, 9 Barracks, 9 City walls, 9 Phoenix Tower, 9 Cathedral, 10 Railways, 10 Anecdotes re- specting, 11 Dr. Cole and the knave of clubs, 12 King James and the Welshmen, 13. CHIRK, 91 The red hand, 91 Church, 91 Dr. Sacheverell, 91 Dr. Balcanqual, 92 Church- yard, 93 Aqueduct, 93 The Ceiriog, 94 Thoughts on, 95. CHIRK CASTLE, 95 Form of, 96 Pictures, 96 Anecdote of a foreign artist, 96 Built by Roger Mortimer, 97 Magnificent iron gateway, 97. CLWYD, vale of, 47 First burst of, 52 Description of, 65. CLYNOG, hamlet of, 273 Church, 273 Chapel of St. Beuno, 273. CONWAY CASTLE, its resemblance to the Castle of Falaise, 177 Great hall, 178 History of, 179 Gray's "Bard," 180 Suspension bridge, 180. CONWAY, falls of the, 210. CONWAY River, 184. CONWAY, thoughts on ruins, 175 The town, 177 The quay, 177 INDEX. 355 The church, 181 Pearl fishery, 182. CORWEN, historically interesting, 109 The church of, 110 An- cient cross, 110 Glyndwr's seat, 111 Caer Drewyn, 111 Exten- sive scenery, 111 Chapel of Rhug, 112. CRIB T DDTSGL, 255. CRICCIETH, castle of, 279 SirHowel y Fwyall, 279. CWM-FFYNOH, lake of, 225. DAVID, the brother of Llewelyn, 65 Custodian of Denbigh Castle, 65 Assumption of sovereignty by, 65 Execution of, 65. DENBIGH, contrast of ancient and modern, 64 Chapel of St. Hilary, 68 View from, 69 Anecdote, 71 Chief Justice Dougherty, 72. DENBIGH CASTLE, 65 Ancient and modern, 65 In the custody of David, 65 Of Earl of Leicebter, 65 Of Richard Myddleton, 66 Of Sir William Salusbury, 66 The retreat of Charles I., 66 Surrender of, 66 Churchyard, the poet, quaint description of, 67 Leland, 67 Thoughts on, 68. DEE, the, 108 111. DINAS EMRTS, rock of, 247 The retreat of Vortigern, 247 Mer- lin, 248. DINAS DINLLE, 272. DINAS, lake of, 247- DINAS MAWDDWY, village of, 323 The "Plas," 324 Slate-quarry of Craig Gwyn, 324 Button's facetious remarks, 325 Roman- tic scenery, 326 The red ban- ditti of, 326 Road to Bwlch y Groes, 329 Arans, the, 329. DOLBADERN, tower of, 235 His- tory of, 236 Moonlight, 237. DOLGELLEY, church of, 303 County hall of, 303 Central place for tourists, 308. DOLWYDDELAN, castle of, 208 History of, 209 Pass of, 210. DOLYMELYNEN, 299 Camlan river, 300 Ganllwyd, 300 Handbill of Welsh guide, 301. DOWNING, architecture of, 41 Beautiful scenery from, 42 Mynydd y Garreg, 42. DYSERTH, castle of, 51. EATON HALL, architecture, 11 Entrance to, 11. EDEIRNION, vale of, 335. EDWARD I., palming off his son on the Welsh, 47 Gives them Ed- ward II., 50, 140 Sir Tudor ap Goronwy, 160 Revelry at Ne- vin, 274. EISTEDDVOD, the, 44 Design of, 44. EULOE CASTLE, its position, 18 Described by Leland, 18 By whom built, 19 Prospect from, 18 Coed Euloe, 18 Defeat of Henry II. by Owen Gwynedd, 19. FFESTINIOG, vale of, 288 Lord Lyttleton's remarks, 289 Clas- sic character of, 290 Village of, 292 Pulpit Hugh Llwyd, 292 Rhaiadr Cwm, 294 Welsh hos- pitality, 294 Pont Newydd, 295. FLINT, its present state, 22 356 INDEX. Founded on a Roman encamp- ment, 22 Situation of, 22 Made a free borough, 23. FLINT CASTLE, ruins of, 23 By whom founded, 28 Double tower, 23 Prison of Richard IT., 23 The residence of Edward I., 28 Retaken by the Welsh, 29 Edward the Black Prince cus- todian of, 29 Failure of Glen- dower to possess himself of it, 29 Dismantled by order of Par- liament, 30 Vested in the Crown, 30 Thoughts on leav- ing, 31. GEKMANUS, Bishop, 21 Heads the Britons against the Picts and Scots, 21 Overthrows them, 21. GLYDER FAWK, 225 Savage gran- deur of, 228. GLYNDWR, Owen, his early life, 108 His mansion of Sychnant, 108 Becomes master of Dinas Bran, 109 Sir Walter Scott's description of him, 109. GLYNLLIFON PARK, site of, 273 Scenery from, 273. GROVES OF THE MAGICIANS, 247. GWRYCH CASTLE, its position, 55 Architecture, 55 Benevolent proprietor of,. 56. GWYDIR CASTLE, 197 Gardens, 193 Fountain of St. Allbright, 199. GWYNANT, valley of, 245 Lake of, 246 Mansion of, 247. HARLECH, village of, 281 Castle of, 281 Twr Bronwen, 281 History of Bronwen, 282 De- scription of the Castle, 282 History of, 283 Margaret of Anjou, 283 David ap Jevan, 283 Gallant conduct of, 284 Surrender of Castle to General Mytton, 285 Country around, 286. HAWARDEN, antique castle of, 15 Definition of name, 15 History of, 16 Henry VII., 16. HAWARDEN PARK, architecture, 17 Park, 17 Scenery from, 17. HOLYHEAD, scenery around, 144 Rapid increase of, 145 Light- house, 148 Captain Evans, 146 Capstan and diving-bell, 147 Visit of George IV., 148. HOLYWELL, changes at, 35 Church of, 36 St. Winifred's Well, 36 Legend of, 37 Miraculous property of, 39 St. Winifred's day, 40- Fuller's caustic remark, 41. IDWAL, Prince, 227. INTRODUCTION : Early associations, 1 British independence, 2 Welsh names, 2 Monumental remains, 3 Natural grandeur, 3 Singular history, 4 Pleasure of travelling, 4 Acquaintance with social condition of nations productive of advantage, 5. KlNMEL, gateway of, 57 Ionic portico, 57. KYMMER ABBEY, 307 Scenery from, 307 Ruins of, 308 By whom founded, 308. LEVAN SANDS, 169. INDEX. 357 LLANAELHAIABX, 274. LLANBERIS, route to, 231 Pass of, 232 Cwm Glas, 232 Wild scene, 233 Camden, 233 Vil- lage of, 234 Cwm Brwynog, 234 Falls of Caunant Mawr, 234 Two lakes of, 235. LLANDDERFEL, village of, 334 Derfel Gadarn, 334. LLANDRILLO, quiet village of, 335 Bwlch Cwm, 335. LLANELLTYD, village of, 302 Wild and sombre scenery of, 303. LLANGOLLEN, excellent inns, 98 The church, 98 Splendid sce- nery, 99 Bridge of, 100 The Dee, remarks on, 103. LLANRHAIADR, Dyffryn Clwyd, 73 Church and churchyard, 73 Monument, 74 Anne Parry, 74. LLANRHAIDR yn Mochnant, village of, 336 Bishop Morgan, 336. LLANRWST, road to, from Conway, 196 Welsh driver, 189 "The Three Eagles," 193 Church, 194 Gwydir chapel, 195 Monumental inscription, 196 Bridge, 196 Coracles, 197 Market-day, 210. LLEWELYN, signification of name, 3. LLEYN, promontory of, 272. LLUGWY, vale of, 220. MACHNO, falls of, 212. MACHYNLLETH, town of, 318 Senate-house, 319 Sir David Gam, 319 Town hall, 320 Llywarch H6n, 320. MAENTWROG, village of, 287, 290 Dwyryd river, 287 Twrog, 290. MAESGARMOX, 21 Victory of the Britons over the Picts and Scots, 21 Pillar, 21 Thoughts on, 21. MALLWYD, village of, 322 Fine yew-tree, 323 High hills around, 323. MATHAFARN, 318. MAWDDACH, the river, 310 Quie- tude of, 310 Pont Ddu, 311 road to Barmouth, 312 Wind- ings of the river, 315. MENAI STRAITS The George Inn, 130 Verses, 130 Aber, 131 The bridge, 131, 135 Erection of, 132 Hurricane, 133 Fine echo, 134 Road to Carnarvon/ 135. MERIONETHSHIRE, Giraldus' remark on, 265 Mountains and rivers of, 328. MOLD Definition of Welsh name, 20 Church of, 20 Bailey Hill, 21. MONTGOMERY, castle of, 343 His- tory of, 343 Town and church of, 348 Lord Herbert of Chir- burg, 349 Lymore Lodge, 350 Cefn Digoll, 350 Prince Ma- doc, 350. MONTGOMERYSHIRE, mountains of, 337 Rivers of, 337. MOSTYN HALL magnificent avenue of trees, 42 Library of, 42 Visit of Richmond to, 43. MYMBYR, valley of, 224 Wild scenery, 224. NANNAU, position of, 304 Grounds of, 304 Gardens of, 305 Moel Orthrwm, 305 Owen Glendower and Howel Sele, 305. NANT FRANGON, wild region of, 358 INDEX. 118 Imaginative ideas of, 122. NANT MILL, picturesque position of, 268. NANTLLE, seclusion of, 265 Road to, 265 Slate quarries of, 266 Wilson's view of Snowdon, 267. NEVIN, romantic position of, 274 Edward I. summons his barons, 274 Chaucer, 275. NORTHOP, 19. OGWEN, lake of, 117 Picturesque rocks, 117 Ogwen bank, 118 Slate quarries, 119 Machinery, 120 Number of public-houses, 120 Remarks on Welsh scenery, 121. ORME'S HEAD, THE GREAT, 182 Diganwy, 183 Gloddaeth, 183. OWEN GWYNEDD defeats Henry 1 1., 19 Takes Basingwerk by storm, 25 Eloquence of, 170. OWEN, SIR JOHN, anecdote of, 271. PARIS MOUNTAIN, 163 Anecdote, . 164. PARC MAWR, fall of, 198. PENGWERN, seat of Lord Mostyn, 47. PENMAEN MAWR, 170 Anecdote, 172 Dean Swift, 173 Braich y Dinas, 174 Rain of rocks, 174. PENMORFA, Sir John Owen, 271. PENRHTN CASTLE in the distance, 121 Church of Llandegai, 124 Roderic Molwynog, 124 Archi- tecture of Penrhyn Castle, 125 Unrivalled position of, 126 Hirlas Horn, 126. PENTRE VOELAS, 115. PISTYLL RHAIADR, 336. PISTYLL Y CAIN, 298. PLAS NEWYDD, its position, 99. PONT Y GWRYD, 225. PONT Y PAIR, bridge of, 216 By whom built, 216. PORT MADOC, 270. PORTHDINLLEYN, harbour of, 276. Powis CASTLE, position of, 338 History of, 338 Beautiful park of, 339 Fine paintings, 339 Gardens and terraces of, 341 High character of Lord Powis, 341. PRICE, SIR JOHN, his account of Cambria, 113. PRICHARD, RHYS, 268. PRIESTHOLME, 161. PWLLHELI, port of, 278 Views of ocean scenery, 278 Quin and the John Doree, 278. RAILWAY, Chester andHolyhead, 11 . RHAIADR DU, 286. RHUDDLAN, 47 Parliament House, 47 Statute of, 48 Made a free town by Edward I., 49 Morfa Rhuddlan, 51 Battle between the Britons and Saxons, 51 Air called "Morfa Rhuddlan," 51. RHUDDLAN CASTLE, 48 Built by Llewelyn ap Sitsyllt, 48 Burnt by Harold, 48 History of, 48 Rebuilt by Edward I., 49 Prin- cess born in, 50 Taken by Ge- neral Mytton, 50 Dismantled by order of Parliament, 50. RHUG, chapel of, 112. RHYL, a rising watering-place, 52 Contiguity to Liverpool, 52 Fine beach at, 53 -Church of, 53 Foryd, 53. INDEX. 359 RICHARD II., imprisonment at Flint Castle, 23 Scene with Boling- broke, 23 Northumberland's baseness, 24 Richard's grey- hound, 26 His removal to Ches- ter, 25 Shakspeare's delineation of Richard and Bolingbroke, 27. ROUBILIAC, monument by, 82 Anecdote of, 83. RUABON, church of, 84 Monuments by Rhysbrac and Nollekens, 84. RUTHIN, position and history of, 77 Church of, 80 Monuments, 80 Dr. Gabriel Goodman, 80 Mill, 80. RUTHIN CASTLE, position of, 77 History of, 77 Besieged by Gen. Mytton, and dismantled, 78 Secret passages, 79 Thoughts on, 78. SARN BADRWTG, 285. SNOWDON, forest of, 245 Mineral formation of, 255 Heaths and flowers of, 255 Summit of, 256 Buck's account of, 256 Num- ber of lakes, 257 Extent of pros- pect, 258 Sunset, 258 Night thoughts on, 258. SNOWDONIAN RANGES, 239. SOUTH STACK, 149 Bishop Stan- ley's description of, 150 Appear- ance of, from the water, 151 Suspension bridge, 152. ST. ASAPH, former name of, 46 Appearance of, 46 Cathedral of, 58 Its architecture, 59 Tower, 59 Choir, 59 Dry rot, 60 Statue of Dean Shipley, 60 Monuments, 61. ST. GEORGE, village of, 56 Mauso- leum of Lady Dinorben, 57 Kinmel, 57. ST. WINIFRED'S WELL History of St. Winifred, 37 Miraculous properties of the well, 39 Cure of Sir Roger Bodenham, 39. TAL T LLYN, village of, 317 Lake of, 317. TAL TR GOCH, lead works of, 52. TAN T BWLCH, the mansion of, 288 Grounds of, 288 Luxuriant plants, 288. TAN TR OGO, defile of, 53 Cefn Ogo, 53 Important events at, 53. TEYRN, lake of, 229. THREE SISTERS, the, 76. TRAWSFYNTDD, 296 Dress of pea- sants, 297 Roman road, 297. TREFRIW, 190 Llyn Geirionydd, 191 Angling, 192. TREMADOC, 269 Traeth Mawr, 269 W. A. Madocks, Esq., 270 The town, 270. TRIFAEN MOUNTAIN, ascent of, by Mr. Bingley, 228 Parting view of, 228. VALLE CRUCIS ABBEY, founded by Gryffudd ap Madoc Maelor, 105 Architecture of, 105 Pillar of Eliseg, 108 Avon Eglwysegle, 107. WALES, its magnificent scenery, 168-309 The land of history, 122. WELSH HARPERS, 260. WELSH NAMES, 2, 217. 360 INDEX. WELSH PEASANT, character of, 45 Mrs. Hemans, lines to, 45. WELSHPOOL, town of, 337 Church of, 337 County hall, 337 Vale of Cyfeiliog, 341 Craig Breiddin, 342. WEPBE HALL, its beautiful situa- tion, 19. WBEXHAM, 81 Beautiful church, 82 Quadrangular tower, 82 Monument by Roubilliac, 82 Anecdote of Roubilliac, 83. WYNNSTAY, 85 Magnificent ave- nue, 85 Variety of prospect, 86, Laurel walk, 86 Obelisk, 86 The mansion, 87 Lake, 87 Pictures, 87 Theatre, 88 Belen Tower, 88 View from, 88 Beautiful walk, 90. Y WYDDFA, 230 Morning visit to, 241 Panoramic views from, 242 Summit of, 256. YSCEIVIOG, village of, 43 Rev. Rowland Williams, 43. YSPYTTY EVAN, 115. PRINTED BY COX (BROTHERS) AND WYMAN, GREAT QUEEN STREET. V, &&LS