VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA, AND THE CAPE OF GOOD HOPE; IN HIS MAJESTY'S GUN BRIG THE PROTECTOR, COMMANDED BY LIEUT. SIR G. M. KEITH, BART. LONDON: PRINTED FOR RICHARD PHILLIPS, BRIDGE STREET, BLACKFRIARS, TJY B. M'MILLAN, BOW STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 1810. jiRC Ct : ■/ TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE HENRY, LORD MULGRAVE, FIRST LORD COMMISSIONER OF THE ADMIRALTY, «$T. SfC. fyC. THE FOLLOWING PAGES ARE INSCRIBED, AS A TOKEN OF THE GRATITUDE AND RESPECT OF THE AUTHOR, A V O YA G E, CHAP- I. Sail from Spithead — Anchor at Weymouth — A False Alarm — Anchor at Falmouth — Description of that Port — Marine Fishing — The Flying Fish described — Arrive at the Island of Madeira. /~)N Sunday the 25th day cf August, 1805, we sailed from ^-* Spithead under sealed orders, in company with his majesty's slcop Espoir, and the Encounter gun-brig ; but the wind proving unfavourable, we put into Swannage Eay on the 27th, anchoring in six fathoms water, with the Needles Point hearing E. by S. and Peveril Point west. The romantic forms of the high chalk cliffs, in the eastern fart oi this bay, contrasted with the low land of Peveril •oint, ihe distani view of the Needles and the Isle of Wight, form together a group of scenery truly picturesque. The wind comi<;g fair during the night, we weighed and made all sail down channel; but this was of short continu- ance, foi i he next Jay it came round to S.W. which obliged usto stand in for Portland Roads. His majesty was then at VV> mouth, with two of the royal yachts, and the Dia- mond h nd Ch iffonne frigates attending on him. Our sur- ■ and concern will be therefore more readily conceived ■ pressed, on ob&erving that both the yachts and the v.; their colour;;, and pendants lowered half-mast " fears on iceouni of our beloved sovereign, ■ our coming to anchor, when we learnt that <: alarmed us, was in consequence of the ; highness the duke of Gloucester, 'en fathoms water, with Portland castle ft s d VVyke church N.W. by N. 6 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. On the 30th, the wind being moderate though contrary, we weighed at daylight, in company with the Espoir, leav- ing the Encounter laying to, apparently waiting for one of her boats. We had a heavy gale of wind from the northward on the 1st of September, during which we lost sight of the Espoir, but fell in with her again on the 3d off the Lizard, and sent our boat on board of her. On the 6th, we had a second gale from the S.W. heavier than the former, in which we again lost sight of the Espoir, and finding it continue, we bore up the next day for Falmouth harbour, and anchored in Car- rick Roads in six fathoms water, St. Mawes' castle bearing S. E. by. S. Pendennis castle S.W. by W. and the Black RockS. by W. half W. Scarcely had veletgo the anchor, when we were agreeably surprised by the appearance of the Espoir, who also came to an anchor near us. The following day being Saturday, we had an opportunity of visiting Falmouth market, which is most plentifully supplied from the adjacent country, and it is worthy of re- mark, that although this port is the depot of all the foreign packets and their numerous passengers, and occasionally visited by many other ships, still the prices of the necessa- ries of life are far more reasonable than what is to be met with in any other sea-port on the S.W. coast of England. There are many good houses in the town, but the streets are very irregular, narrow and ill paved ; these inconveni- ences, however, are amply compensated by the safety and extent of the harbour, which is now furnished with moor- ings for the use of the channel fleet, when driven from their station off Brest by the severity of the S.W. gales. Having completed our water here and received a supply of fresh beef, we weighed at daylight on the 8th, and made sail to the S.W. in company with the Espoir, having now given up hopes of being rejoined by the Encounter, it being reported at Falmouth that she had run aground in working out of Portland Roads. Nothing of importance occurred until the 12tb, when being in latitude 4G 35'N. and longitude 5° 49' W. we perceived at daylight on our lee-bow, a squadron consisting of four sail of the line and two frigates, standing to the westward with all sail set. The Espoir immediately made the private sige.al to them, which finding they did not answer, we had every reason to conclude them an enemy, and every reason for alarm on a comparison of our force. DELICACT OF THE FLYING FISH. / After the signal bad been flying an hour and a half, it was at length, to our great satisfaction, answered; upon which we run down to them, and spoke them. The day following, as the Espoir sailed considerably bet- ter than we did, she took us in tow for the sake of greater expedition, in which unpleasant situation we continued until the 19th, when we were obliged to cast off, in a heavy gale of wind from the S.W . ; but on the 21st, the weather being moderate, she again took us in tow, and kept us so until the 24th, when being in latitude 33° IT N., and longitude 14° 51' W., the captain of the Espoir, considering himself near the land, cast us off, with orders to stand for it. We did not however see it until 8 A. M. on Saturday the 28th, when it appeared as three islands, bearing W.N.W. the largest of which we made all sail for, on the supposition of its being Madeira, and the two smaller ones being the Descrtas . It happened very unfortunately, that there was not a per- son on board in the least acquainted with Madeira, nor was there any chart or sketch of it to be found. By 3 P. M. we were sufficiently near the island we were standing for, to per- ceive that it was totally uncultivated, and apparently unin- habited ; and about the same time we saw the island of Ma- deira in the N.W. quarter, that which we had taken for it being the largest of the three Dcsertas. About six in the evening we hove to off the town of Ma- chico, and made the signal for a pilot, which was immedi- ately answered, by a boat coming off with three gentlemen and four rowers, who left us one of the boat's crew to con- duct us to Funchal. On the morning of this day we caught five bonettas, being the only fish taken since leaving England, excepting several flying fish, which at times flew aboard during the night, in their'endeavours to escape from their pursuers, the bonettas and dolphins, whose principal food they constitute. Both these sorts of fish have been too often described, to require any thing farther on that head being said here ; but it has perhaps never been mentioned, that the flying fish is by far the most delicate eating of any that arc to be found in the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans (the turtle excepted) ; but unfortunately there is no method of obtaining them hitherto discovered, except by the chance above-mentioned, which renders them equally scarce as good. Light airs, calms, and strong westerly currents, prevented our getting into Funchal Roads before Tuesday, the 1st of 8 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. October, at noon, -when we anchored in 45 fathoms water, and found laying here his majesty's ships Diadem, Raison- ablo, Belliqueux, Diomede, Malabar, Narcissus, Leda, Dart, Espoir, Dolphin, Chichester, and the Encounter (the latter having only arrived the same morning), with a nume- rous fleet of East and West Indiamen, and transports filled with stores and troops. CHAP. II. Account of Madeira — Discovered by the English — Pre- sent State of the Island. THE narrative of Robert a Macliin is of considerable importance, as it records the first discovery of Madeira by a.. Englishman. The attention paid to it by Alcaforado, eqU'-rry 1o prince Henry, duke of Viseo, gives it every au- thority that can be wished ; but yet considerable difficulties arise, respecting the exact date when this event took place. The reign of Edward III. extends from 1327 to 1377. Gai- vano, who is not always correct, dates the discovery, on the authority of the Chronicles of Castile, about 1314; Herbert places it in 1328 : both these dates give a longer imprison- ment to Morales than is consistent with history. Probably the exact year was never recorded : even the relation of Al- caforado is full of subsequent interpolations, many of which are pointed out by Mr. Green (Astley's Collection, vol. i. p. 571). The reign of Edward III. might have been thus inserted, to give a greater authority to the adventures of our countrymen. Jt was in the glorious reign of Edward III. of England, that Robert a Maehin, a gentleman of the second degree of nobility, whose genius was only equalled by his gallantry and courage, beheld and loved the beautiful Anna D'Arfet : tli« ir attachment was mutual ; but the pleasing indulgence of anient hope, gratified and betrayed their passion. Some writers have preferred the name of Dorset, which a foreign orthograj hy might turn into D'Ofset, and thence to \Y v iti't. The pride of the illustrious family of D'Arfet ren- dered than insensible to the happiness of their daughter; MISFORTUNES OF TWO LOVERS. 9 they preferred the indulgence of ambition to the voice of duty and love. The feudal tyranny of the age was friendly to their cruel design, and a warrant from tin* king seemed to justify the vanity of a parent. The consolation of an in- genuous mind supported Machin in confinement; its energy, thus compressed, sought only for redress ; nor did it yield to despondency, when, on being delivered from prison, he found that the innocent cause of his persecution had been forced to marry a nobleman, who had carried her to his castle near Bristol. The friends of Machin made his mis- fortune their own, and one of them had the address to be introduced, under the character of a groom, to the service of the afflicted Anna. The prospect of the ocean, which, during their rides, extended before them, suggested or ma- tured the plan of escape ; and the probability of a secure asylum, was opposed to the dangers of a passage to the coast of France. 3 Under pretence of receiving benefit from sea air, the vic- tim of parental ambition was enabled, without delay, to elude suspicion ; whilst Machin, in the successful completion of his anxious design, was equally insensible to the particular season of the year, or the portentous appearance of weather, which in calmer moments he would have duly observed. m The gradual rising of a gale of wind rendered the asto- nished fugitives sensible of their rashness : as the tempest approached, the thick darkness of the night completed the horror of the scene. In their confusion the intended port was missed, or could not be reached ; their vessel drove at the mercy of the winds ; and in the morning they found themselves in the midst of an unknown ocean, without the skill that could determine their situation, or the experience that could direct their course. The dawn of twelve morn- ings returned without the sight of land : when at length, alter a night of increased anxiety, as they eagerly watched *he earliest streaks of day, an object loomed.in the horizon : continual disappointment produced a querulous despon- dency ; whilst they alternately believed and doubted, the thick grey haze was dispersed by the rising sun, and a ge- neral burst of joy welcomed the certainty of land. A luxu- nancy of trees was soon visible, to whose appearance th»y were utter strangers ; and the beautiful plumage of unknown birds, who came in flocks from ihe island, £raye at first the semblance of a dream to their astonishing deliverance. The boat being hoisted out to examine the coast, returned wah a favourable account, Machin and Uk friends acccu- KEIXK. J € 10 TOYAftE TO SOUTH AMERICA. panied their trembling charge, leaving the rest to secure the vessel. The wilderness of the adjacent country possessed additional charms to men escaped from destruction; and the rich scenery of Madeira was again beheld, after a lapse «f many centuries, by the eyes of Europeans. It was not only visited by the Romans, but probably also by the Normans, those skilful navigators, of whose disco- veries we know so little ; who preceded the Portuguese, and followed the Arabians, in nautical skill. An opening in the extensive woods, that was encircled with laurels and flowering shrubs, presented a delightful re- treat ; a venerable tree, the growth of ages, offered, on an adjoining eminence, its welcome shade ; and the first mo- ments of liberty were employed in forming a romantic resi- dence, with the abundant materials supplied by nature. Curiosity to explore their new discovery was increased by the novelty of every object they beheld : this varied occu- pation continued for three days, until the survey was inter- lupted by an alarming hurricane, that came on during the night, and rendered them extremely anxious for their com- panions who were on board. The ensuing morning de- stroyed every prospect of happiness : they in vain sought for the vessel, which had drove from her moorings, and was wrecked on the coast of Morocco; where, as it afterwards appeared, all on board were immediately seized as slaves, and sent to prison. The afflicted Machin found this last trial too severe for Lis disconsolate companion ; her tender mind, overcome by the scenes she had endured, needed the conscious sense of strict discharge of duty to renew its strength. From the moment it was reported that the vessel could not be found, she became dumb with grief, expired after a few days oi silent despair, and was soon followed by her inconsolable lover. The companions of Machin, forgetting their own situation, were entirely occupied in watching over their emaciated friend ; but all attempts to administer consolation were fruit- less. On the fifth day they received his parting breath, and earnest injunction, that they would place his body ih the same grave under the venerable tree, which, amidst an aiiony of tears, they had so lately made for the unfortunate victim of his temerity: where the altar had been raised to celebrate their deliverance, would now mark their untimely tomb. This painful duty being performed, they fixe' 1 a large wooden cross over the grave, with the inscription PRODUCTIONS OP MADEIRA. II which Machin had composed to record their melancholy ad- ventures, and to request that if any Christian should here- after visit the spot, they would in the same place build a church, and dedicate it to Christ ; — -" But never human eye *' Had mark'd the spot, or gaz'd upon the grave " Of the unfortunate ; but for the voice " Of enterprise that spoke from Sagre's towers; " Through ocean's perils, storms, and unknown wastes, " Speed we to Asia !" Having thus obeyed the dictates of friendship, they fitted out the boat, which from their first landing had been kept ashore. Their intention was to return, if possible, to Eng- land ; but either owing to want of skill, to the currents, or unfavourable weather, they were driven on the same coast with their shipmates, and joined them in their Moorish prison. The island is of a triangular form, and about forty leagues in circumference : it was taken possession of by the Portu- guese in the year 1437. They set fire to the forests, which bnmed for a conside- rable time, and gave the soil that degree of fertility which it boasts of at present ; indeed, were it properly cultivated, Madeira might be termed the garden of the world. The scorching heat of summer, and the icy chill of winter, are here equally unknown ; but spring and autumn reign toge- ther, and produce flowers and fruit throughout the year. It abounds in every kind of tropical and European fruits, as oranges, lemons of a prodigious size, bananas, citrons, peaches, figs, plums, and strawberries, that grow wild in the mountains, with astonishing profusion; grapes which are as large as our common plums, and remarkable for their peculiar flavour. The oranges are of a sanguine red: this species is produced from the common orange bud, engrafted on the pomegranate stock. There is likewise a kind of pear found here, not bigger than a walnut, and very crisp. The sugar-cane also is cultivated with success, though not in any considerable quantity. The cedar tree is found in great abundance : it is extremely beautiful ; most of the ceilings and furniture at Madeira are made of that wood, which yields a very fragrant smell. The dragon tree is a native of this island. Flowers nursed in the English green-houses, grow wild here in the fields ; the hedges' are mostly formed of myrtles, roses, jessamine, and honeysuckle, in cverlast- cS 12 VOTAttE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ing blossom ; while the larkspur, the fleur-de-lis, the lupirr, &c. spring up spontaneously in the meadows. There are very few reptiles to be seen in the island ; the lizard is the most common. Canary birds and goldfinches are found in the mountains; of the former, numbers are sent every year to England. But Madeira is principally celebrated for its wine, which it pro- duces in great quantities, and which keeps best in the hot- test climate, under the torrid zone ; for this reason the inha- bitants of the West India islands that can afford it, drink little else; and the Madeira wine that, is brought to England, is thought to be worth little, unless it has been a voyage to the East or West Indies. This island is well watered and peopled, and the inhabitants are good-natured, but great voluptuaries. Funchal, the capital of the island, is situated round a bay, on the gentle ascent of the first hill, in form of an am- phitheatre. Its public and private buildings, are in general, entirely white. On the sea side are several batteries. An old castle, which commands the road, stands on the top of a steep black rock, surrounded by the sea at high water, and called by the English, Loo liock. On a neighbouring eminence above the town is another, called St. Jolin's castle. The hills beyond the town are co- veyed with vineyards, enclosures, plantations, and groves, interspersed with country houses and churches. The streets ore narrow, ill paved, and dirty ; the houses are built of freestone or brick, but they are dark ; and only a few of the best, belonging to the English merchants or the principal inhabitants, are provided with glass windows: all the others have a kind of lattice-work in "their stead, which hangs on hinges, and may be lifted up occasionally. The best anchorage in Funchal Roads is with the following bearings: The Western Point VV. by N. ; the Loo Rock N. by VV. ; the Brazen Head E. by S. ; the Descrtas, from £. to S.E., about nine leagues distaut, 13 CHAP. III. Lease Madeira — A Seaman drowned — A Ship runs a-board of us — Cross the Equator — Ludicrous Ceremony on that Occasion. WE remained here until the 3d at day-light, when we weighed in company with the whole fleet ; bnt in working out of the roads with a light air, we drifted on board one of the transports, owing to the westerly current before mentioned ; but the boats of the fleet coming to our assistance, we were soon towed clear of her, without sustaining any damage. Owing perhaps to the very large fleet assembled here, we found stock of every description uncommonly scarce and dear; even fruit not excepted. On the 4th the commodore hoisted his broad pendant, on "which occasion he was saluted by all the men of war with thirteen guns each, and cheered by the greater part of the merchantmen. On Sunday the 6th, performed divine service; and in the evening the fleet for the West Indies, under convoy of the Malabar and Dart, parted company. On the 9th, served out fishing-hooks and lines to the ship's company, but since leaving Madeira caught nothing except a few flying-fish. Nothing material occurred until the 13th at two in the morning, when James Turner, one of the best men and best seamen in the brig, in reaching at a filing-fish in the fore chains, lost his balance, fell overboard, and was unfortu- nately drowned ; the ship then running six miles per hour, and the darkness of the night, rendering every exertion to save him abortive. This day performed divine service. At eight A.M. on the morning of the 25th, being on a wind upon the star- board tack, under courses, topsails, and jib, and going about four miles an hour, the Britannia East India man be- ing then upon the larboard tack, under the same sail, and on our larboard bow, persisted in keeping his wind, and in endeavouring to weather us, although we repeatedly hailed and waved to him, desiring him to bear up and put his helm a-port, which finding that he would not do, we were compelled to put our helm a-starboard, and bear up, con- 14 TOTAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. trarv to all rules of the service, in order to avoid the immi- nent danger of being run down ; but before we could clear his lee-quarter by so doing, our bowsprit was carried away by hib mizcn chains. It were superfluous to add a single remark upon this trans- action, as every seaman can, and will, make the proper comment. Our distress was immediately observed by the commo- dore, who sent the Raisonable to our assistance, and by two in the afternoon we wen; ready to make sail again, having rigged out a spare topmast as a jury bowsprit, and set the jib upon it, which was found to answer very well, and that we could keep company with the fleet, although the fore- top-gallant, mast was down, and we were always obliged to keep a reef in the fore-topsail for the security of the fore- mast. On Sunday the 27(h, performed divine service. On Thursday the 3 1st of October, we crossed the Equator, in longitude 3^26' W. from London, and on this occasion the ancient custom of ducking and shaving was duly observ- ed, there being mo fewer than thirty-five persons onboard, c yt°f forty-six, who had never been upon the line before. J he mode of performing this ceremony, is by a grotesque Neptune and Amphitrite, with their attendants, placing the novice on a plank, laid across a large tub filled with water ; Jiis face is then lathcrd with a mixture of tar, paint, grease, fiFid filth ; and after a few rough scrapes with a piece of iron hoop, the plank is withdrawn, he falls into the tub, and is soused with about twenty buckets full of water thrown over iiilll. CHAP. IV. Discover a Dangerous Shoal — Its Situation described — J fake the Coast of Brazil — Remarks on the prevailing Currents — Singular Fishing Boats — Appearance of the ■ Land. AT noon, on Saturday the 2d of November, we disco- vered a sand bank from the mast-head, bearing S. by \\ . NAUTICAL OBSERVATIONS. 15 about (lirce leagues distant; it appeared to be very level, but considerably above the surface of the sea, and the dry part apparently about half a mile in length : the sea broke only on the eastern end of the bank, and in that direction the break- ers extended to the verge of the horizon. A black spot was visible on the north side of the bank, but whether it was a small rock, or whether the wreck -of some unfortunate vessel, we were not near enough to distinguish with any degree of certainty. Our making this shoal in the day time was truly provi- dential ; as from the number of the fleet, and other circum- stances, had we fell in with it in the night time, many of them must have been totally lost upon it. Deduced from the observation at noon, this shoal lavs in latitude 3° 51' S. and longitude 24° 09" W. from London. The above shoal is very accurately laid down in a gene- ral chart of the Atlantic and Southern Oceans, published by- Laurie and Whittle, Fleet Street, London, and therein named " Roccas;" the nearest to it being called a shoal " from Peinentel ;" which is laid down in latitude 4° 3b" 8. and longitude oo° 10" W. from London, and which differs so very materially in position from the former, as to prevent their being ever confounded. The following day being Sunday, we performed divine service, and in the afternoon bent the cables, on account of our approach to the Brazilian coast. On Monday the 4th, at 7 A. M. saw the land from the mast-head, and at noon it extended from S. W. by W. to N.W. by W. distant beiween five or six leagues, very uneven and hilly, inter- spersed with many sandy cliffs and openings ; latitude at noon .o°57'S. Many albicores and bonettas were now seen about the ship, but to our mortification we took none. W e have already had occasion to mention the effects of a westerly current at the Island of Madeira, and now think it proper to add, for the benefit of future navigators, that this current is more extensive in its limits, and runs with greater velocity than is generally supposed or allowed for. From the Cape of Good Hope, it runs in a N.W. direc- tion towards Cape Augustine in South America, and then runs still r lore westerly, according to the direction of the coast, towards theCarribbean Sea, the Bay of Honduras, and the Gulph of Mexico; from which it finds a passage through ihc Gulch of Florida. A daily allowance is therefore necessary to be made for it, 16 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. and no opportunity of trying its rate should be neglected ; to enforce tin cess !ty ofw'icb, it need only be noticed, that fro-n the want of such opportunity when we made the laud, the longitude by dead reckoning wis no less than 3° 30' a-stern of the shi-> : a difference which, had there been na means of correcting it by celestial observations, might have produced the most fatal consequciu Oil the 5th, we were surpuz-. i at the appearance of three very singular boats, resembling rifts, with three men on each, seemingly fishing, and ni least six leagues distant from the shore ; but we were not near enough to speak them. At noon, the land bore from S.W to W. N.W. distant five or six leagues, hilly and uneven, with large trees and many openings, latitude 6° 16" S. On Wednesday the 6th, at noon, the land bore from S.W. by S. to N.W. by W. distant about sis leagues, having much the same appearance as yesterday, with a large column of smoke in one part. The latitude at noon 7 C 04" S. with light breezes from the S. E. ; our progress being much retarded by falling in with the land so far to the northward, and being obliged to turn to windward against the trade wind, to enable us to weather Cape St. Augustine. CHAP. V. Arrival at the Bay of All Saints ; and Description of the City of Salvador. ON Thursday the 7th, in the morning, we passed the Town of Pernambuco, and at noon were in latitude 8 C 16" S. I he wind veered round to the N. E. on Friday the 8th, and at noon there was no land in sight. Steered S.W. latitude 10- 8 ' S. On Sunday the 10th, at day-light, we were off Cape Anto- nis, which forms the N. E. point of the Bay of All Saints, ; ■.;•! lays in latitude 12° 56" S. and longitude 3S° 47' >V , from J. (Mid?).'! : (he commodore and three of the convoy he.ing the only ships in sight, we stood into the bay by hi* ord •: , aim brought out a pilot for him ; tben stood in again WRECK OF AN INDIAMAN. ]7 in company with him, and at noon came to an anchor in seven fathoms, and moored, Cape Anton is bearing S. byW. the fort E. by S., and the western point of the bay b. \V . by S. J The appearance of the Bay of All Saints and (he City of .Salvador horn the anchorage is very beautiful, and though certainly inferior to the Hay of Naples, is perhaps not for short of the view of Constantinople from the harbour, and m several respects resembles it on a smaller scale. The moment a person lands, however, the deception va- nishes, tor there never was a place of equal extent and im- portance, so dirty, miserable, and disgusting- in every sense of the word. The house inhabited by the governor (and dignified with the name of a palace), forms oneside of a small square- the other being occupied by the common jail, which, with the wretches immured in it, must of course meet, his eye fifty times m a day : so much for prospect and situation. In the streets you meet none except soldiers and slaves, with here and there a solitary friar, or a Portuguese gentleman borne in his palanquin, for as to the ladies without the walls of their houses, they are absolutely invisible. m The Portuguese, with their accustomed avarice, on the ar- rival of the fleet trebled the price of every article in their markets, from an orange to a pipe of wine; and not satisfied with this extortion, they unanimously refused to receive any government bills whatever, unless at the enormous discount of ^0 per cent, though payable ten days after sight : and at tins rate, including the repairs, stores, and provisions, for the men of war and troops, with private purchases, they must have received at the lowest estimate, 130.000/. sterling In the Bay of Ail Saints, which is verv safe and capaci- ous, we observed a regular and considerable tide, which at the springtides, runs nearly three miles per hour. A\ ithin ibur days after our arrival, the remainder of the convoy came in, excepting the Britannia East India ship the King George artillery^transport, and the Jack brig. The two former were unfortunately wiecked upon the shoal seen on the 2d of tips month : having wit!, ihe other Indiamen been detached from the fleet, under convoy oi Leda; but the crews oi* both ships were saved, ivi'd/thecx ception of general Yorke and one seaman. The following particulars relative it) this very nuiancholy event, were collected from the survivors, and 'from the offi- cers of the Leda frigate, which narrowly esearcd sharim- the same t'ntc. KEITH. IS CHAP. VI. Dangerous Situation of the Leda Frigate — Interesting Particulars of the Loss of the Britannia East India- man, and the King George Transport, upon the Roccas — Death of General Yorke. AT half past three in the morning of the 1st of Novem- ber, 1S03, the officer of the watch on board the Leda, who had been previously cautioned by the captain to look well out for rocks, &c. went down, and acquainted him that breakers were seen a-head. On the captain going on deck, and perceiving the ship among breakers, he ordered her to be put about,"and as she had entered S.W., to stand out N. E. ; but no sooner had she got round, than a man on the forecastle cried out, " Land a-head, high and dry !" The helm was instantly put up — the frigate fortunately wore quick, and cleared the dangers; but the boats over the stern, in veering the ship, actually hung over the rocks. The signal gun for the convoy to tack, was fired, and after- wards several others, to warn the convoy of tiie danger. The quarter-master, when trying the soundings, found only five fathoms, but had the presence of mind to sing out " Seven!" The safety of the Leda was evidently owing to the temperate and collected conduct of the captain, officers, and crew. Signal guns were also heard in the Leda from other ships in the convoy : and when the day dawned, tin ir fears for the safety of others were unhappily realized, finding that one ship (the King (ieorge) had got among the rocks; and the Britannia East India ship, when on ths point of tacking, having heard the Leda's guns, was run foul of by a large East Indiaman (the Strcatham) : the bow- sprit, and fore-topmast of the L'ritannia were carried away, and her bows partly Move in, when she became unmanage- able, and drifted almost instantly on a rock, where she hung bv the stern. The niizen-mast being cut away, she in a quarter of an hour cleared herself from the rock, with the loss of her rudder, and a serious leak ; which, however, tin; captain of ihe Britannia was in such hopes to keep under, thai he was in the a< i of sending off his boats to the relief of the King George, when the water was found to gain fast and irresistibly. A signal was then made by :''•' ensign (un.i.n reversed), of distress. The Europe, Comet, and \ emna SINGULAR ACT OF DESPERATION. .19 (Indiamen), being then near, sent their boats, and brought off all her crew, and the East India recruits on board, be- ing nearly 400 persons, except one man, who would not be saved, either from madness or inebriety. This man had got a cutlass, by which he prevented any person from forcing him away, and as he flourished it, swaggered over the trea^ sure which had been got upon the quarter-deck, and swore vehemently, that as he had been all his life a poor man, he would now go out of the world gloriously rich ! loading him- self at the same time with dollars from the chests that had been broken open. Out of one hundred and sixty chests of dollars, only twelve could be brought away : so suddenly did the ship go down after the leak increased. The Britannia had drifted about seven miles from the rocks, and sunk in deep water. The Leda frigate was employed during this time in send- ing her boats to the rocks, to save the people they discovered on a sandy island among those rocks, and so completely sur- rounded by them, that they could only find one opening, or small cove, for the boats to approach. From this they "took oft the crew of the King George transport, and the artillery troops that had been embarked therein, except general Yorke, of the Royal Artillery, who was the only person drowned in attempting to get on shore, and one artilleryman, who had been seen safe on shore after the ship struck, and was supposed to have found some spirits, got drunk, and fell from the rocks, as he could no where be found on them. The King George run on shore almost instantly, as some person called out, " Breakers a-head !" a little before four o'clock in the morning, after the moon had set. The dark- ness, and the spray of the breakers, prevented their seeing an v spot on which they could place a hope of safety. They, however, as soon as they could get the first gun off, which had got its charge .somewhat wet or damp, tired seve- ral guns of distress, hoisted their boats out under the lee, and sent them off from the ship, to discover if there Avas any chance of a place to save themselves, waiting with good order for day. At dawn they discovered at some little dis- tance, one place larger than the other rocks, hhj;h and dry. The boats, except the jolly-boat, whose crew had secured their own safety by pulling to another ship, returning about the same time, and stating, that if all hands quitted the ship (which must soon go to pieces), and get on the small rocks nearly under the spritsail yard, the boats could take them from thence to the larger one; which was immediately n l 2 20 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. set about, sending the women and children among the first, by slinking them under the arms with a rope, and another r >. . tu haiil them to the rock. The general, being the old- est man on hoard, ihey wished to do the snme with him, which he indignantly refused: he therefore went to the sprit- sai! yard, to get on the rock like others, and most probably h ■ found this,' to a landsman, a task of more difficulty than he was aware of; and one of (lie gunners of his corps, per- ceiving his situation, again expressed a wish to sling him with a rope, to ensure his snfeU , which, however, he would not sutler : he some time after remained on the yard, unre- solved to venture down, which obliged the few. remaining behind him to let themselves down from the j.b-boom ; and at last the general either let himself down, or lost his hold, fell just w it hin the surf, had not strength to hold by the rock against the returning wave, and disappeared under the ship's bow for ever ! The loss of the general seems the more unfortunate, as l>e- iug the only individual who perished ; even a woman, who had been delivered of a child not more than three or four hours, was removed from her bed with her infant, and Mere both taken o i board the Leda in safety, notwithstanding her apparent danger. A man also who had broken his leg two days before, was got safe on shore, without injuring the new-set limb. About 8 A. M. or soon after, the ship went to pieces, and neither the officers, or any other person, could save any effects. Some casks were washed on shore after the ship broke up. .On the shore were three anchors laid across each other, with- out stocks, and near them part of the wreck of a large ship ; both of which appeared as if they had been there a very Ion"- time: they also saw the skeleton of a large turtle; found no water;' but saw several spois of course rushes grow- ing on ihe low parts of the sandy island. 21 CHAP. VII. Sail for Hio Janeiro — Arrival there — Description of that City and the Environs— Particular Account of the Dia- mond Mines. H A A ING completed our water and provision?, and got in a new bowsprit, we sailed 0:2 Monday the 25th of No- vember, with dispatches for Rio Janeiro, leaving all the fleet nearly ready for sea. Nothing worthy of remark occurred on the passage until Sunday the 1st of December, when we made Cape Frio; but being deceived by their great similarity, were nearly embayed in consequence of mistaking the island of Danco- ran for the above cape. On Monday the 2d, we were in latitude 23° 32" South, the high land over Rio Janeiro bear- ing N.W. by \V. about ten or twelve leagues distant. On Tuesday the 3d, at live in the afternoon, we entered the harbour of Rio Janeiro, and were hailed from 1 he Tort, of Santa Cruz, desiring us to anchor under the guns of the. fort, which mandate, about ten minutes after, was enforced by a gun. We came to in twelve fathoms, with the fol- lowing bearings : Santa Cruz S. S. E. : Sugar Loaf S. S. \V . • Isle of Cobras' N". Yv". Rio do Janeiro, a city of South America, capital of a jurisdiction, and the present capital of Brazil, situated on a river of the same name, lies in latitude 22° 54' South, and longitude -iz" 43' West from Greenwich. Rio de Janeiro, or tiie River of Junuarius, Mas probably so called from its having been discovered on the feast of that saint; and the town, winch is the capital of the Portuguese dominions in America, derives its "name from the rivei, which, indeed, is ratinr an arm of the sea, for it does net appear to receive any considerable stream of fresh water: it stands on a plain, close to ihi shore, on the west side of the bay, at the root of several high mountains. It is tolerably- well designed ami built: the houses in general are of stone, and two stories high, every house having, after the mauinr of the Portuguese, a verandah. Its circuit, captain Cook estimated at about three miles ; for it appears to be equal 111 size to the largest county towns in England. The streets arc straight, and of a convenient breadth, intersecting each 22 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. other nf right angles; the greater part, however, lie in a line u it I: the citadel, called St. Sebastian, which stands on the top ol a hill that commands the town. It is supplied win! water from (lie neighbouring hills, by an aqueduct, which is raised upon two stories of arches, and is said in some places to be at a great height from the ground, from which the wat; r is conveyed by pipes into a fountain in the great square that exactly fronts the viceroy's palace. The water a ; this fountain, however, is so bad, that captain ('<;<;•.' c .:'. had been two months at sea confined to thai in c.-.i-vs, which was almost always foul, could not drink it with ,•: :, :;;e. Water of a belter quality is laid into some other putts of the town. The churches are very fine: and there. :s v. ore religious parade in this place, than i;. :'S. !)(■;■ |,| ; . a- Sj many of whom are free, making toge- • : '. '. milii .ry establishment here consists of i ■. •'.■: \ !., ' ivuedai tsvi ;..--, six of which are Portu- ix Creoles, and twelve oilier regiments of pro- em . '.•;:. it is generally allowed, that the women (-■ol St ,., ..]', and Poiiuiruev 1 scdlements in South .Mauiea, m.t.\; !e>s scruple of granting personal favours, than those of any other civilized country in the world. PRODUCTION:! OF RIO JANEIRO. 23 Murders are frequently committc.I here; but the churches afford an asylum to the criminal. Tim country round the town is beautiful in the highest degree, the wildest spots being varied with a greater luxuriance of 'lowers, both as to number and beauty, than the best gardens in England. L pon the trees and bushes sit an almost endless variety of birds, especially small ones, many of them covered with the most elegant plumage, among which was the humming bird. Of insects too there was a great variety, a::d some of them very beautiful; but they were much more nimble than those of Europe, especially the butterflies, most of which flew near the tops ol the trees, and were therefore very difficult to be caught, except when the sea breeze blew fresh, which kept them nearer to the ground. There is the appearance of but little cultivation, ilw, greater p;>rt cf the land is wholly uncultivated, and very little care and labour seem to have been bestowed upon the rest : there are, indeed, little patches of gardens, in which many kinds of European garden-stuff are produced, parti- cularly cabbages, pease, beans, kidney-beans, turnips, and while radishes, but all much inferior to our own : water- melons and pine apples are also produced in these spots, and they are the only fruits we saw cultivated, though the coun- try produces musk-melons, oranges, lemons, sweet lemons, citrons, plantains, bananas, mangos, mamane apples, aca- jou or cash ou apples, and nuts, jamboira of two kinds, one of which bears a small black fruit, cocoa nits, palm nuts of two kinds, one long, the other round, and palm berries ; ol these fruits the water-melons and oranges are the best in their kind: the pineapples are much inferior to those in England, they are indeed more juicy and sweet, but have no flavour. The melons are mealy and insipid, but the water-melons are excellent; tiny have a flavour, at leas! a degree of acidify, which the English have not: ' . . are also several species of the prickle pear, and some European fruits, particularly the apple and peach, both uhl< were mealy and insipid. Jn these go. rdens also grow manioc, which in ihe West Indies i* called "cassa" ; sava. T!ie soil, though it produces tobacco am will not produce bread corn ; so that (he peoj no wheat-flour but what is brought . at the rat' 1 of l,o. a pound, though ii is being headed in its passage. A.- to re Cook neither saw nor heard of an \ - hammocks, in which people are cui.ii J r Portu arid s--Vi 1 ;enerail . sj ];•' iufacb ca| pi that . ;i (.oitf.n . t lea- ; 'i: v 21 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMEJIICA. are with us in sedan chairs; and these arc principally, if not wholly, fabricated by the Indians. The riches of the place consist <;• .-ierly in the mines, which lie far up the coun- try. Much gold is certainly brought from these mines, but al an ex pence of life that must strike every man to whom ens* Hi has not made it familiar with horror : no less than 40,000 negroes are annually imported on the king's account, to work 'he nones. The mines which are called General, are nearest to the city, being about 225 miles distant. They annually bring unto the king for his fifth part at least 112 arrobas of gold : in 1762 they brought in 119. Under the government of the General Mines, are comprehended those - of Rio sessx>rs of the mines : but they are obliged to give a very exact account of the diamonds they find, and to put them into the hands of a surveyor whom the king appoints for this pur- pose: the surveyor immediately deposits them in a little casket covered with plates of iron., and locked up by three locks; he has one of the keys, the viceroy another, and the provador de hazienda reale, the third. This casket is enclose:! in another, on winch are the seals of the three persons above mentioned, and which contains the three keys to the first. The viceroy is not aiiovvi d to view its contents ; he only places the whole; in a third colter, which he sends to Lisbon, alter putting his s.al on it. It is opened in the king's presence, he chooses lue diamonds which he likes out of it, and pays their price to the possessors of the mines, according to a tariff settled in their charier, 'i he possessors of the mines pay the value of a Spanish piastre or dollar per day, to his most faithful ma- i ;>• i very slave sent out to seek diamonds : the number «>f these slaws amounts to eight hundred. Of all the con- traband trad -: . :'.. of diamonds is most severely punished. i« :he smuggler is poor, he loses his life; if his riches are suii'cii'Ut to sit si v vshal the law exacts, besides the confis- cation of the diamonds he i.-> condemned to pay double tluir value, to be imprisoned for one year, and then exiled for li' ; totheeoisi of Africa. Notwithstanding this severity, the >;i"i..; . ,:a.. i rade with diamonds, even of the most beau- tdi.it Kind, is vc; > extensive, so great is the hope and facility REGULATIOiVS RESPECTING BULLION. go of hiding them, on account of the little room they take up. All the gold which is got out of the mines cannot be sent to Rio Janeiro, without being previously brought into the houses established in each district where the part belonging to the crown is taken. What belongs to private persons is returned to them in wedges, with their weight, their num- ber, and the king's arms stamped upon them. All this gold is assayed by a person appointed for that purpose; and on each wedge or ingot the alloy of the gold is marked, that it may afterwards be easy to bring them all to the same alloy for the coinage. These ingots belonging to private person* are registered in the office ofPrayburia, ninety miles from Kio Janeiro. At this place is a captain, a lieutenant, and fifty men; there the tax of one-fifth part is paid, and further, a poll- tax of a real and a half per head of men, cattle, and beasts of burden. One half of the produce of this tax goes to the king, .and the other is divided among the detachment, ac- cording to their rank. As it is impossible to come b;ick from the mines without passing by this station, the soldiers always stop the passengers, and search them with the utmost rigour. The private people are then obliged to bring all the ingots of gold which fall to theirshare, to the mines at Rio .Janeiro, where they get the value of it in cash ; this commonly con- sists of demi-doubloons, worth eight Spanish dollars. "Upon each demi-doubloon the king gets a piastre or dollar for the alloy, and for the coinage. The mint at Rio Janeiro is one of the finest buildings existing : it is furnished with all the conveniences necessary towards working with the greatest ex- pedition. As the gold comes from the mines at the time that the fleets come from Portugal, the coinage must be ac- celerated, and indeed they coin there with amazing quick- ness. The arrival of these fleets, especially of that from Lisbon, renders the commerce flourishins, : the fleet from Oporto is laden only with wines, brandy, vinegar, victuals, and seme coarse cloth, manufactured in and about that town. As soon as the fleets arrive, all the goods they bring are conveyed to the custom-house, where they pay a duty of ten per cent, to the king. It must be observed, that the com- munication between the colony of Saint Sacramento and Buenos Ayres, being entirely cut off at present, that duty- must be considerably lessened ; for the greatest part of the most precious merchandizes which arrived from Europe, was KEITH. | jp 26 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. s Mil Irom Rio Janeiro to that colony, from whence they were smuggled through Buenos Ay res to Peru and Chili ; and this contraband trade was worth a million and a half of piastres annually to the Portuguese : in short, the mines of the Bra- zils produce no silver, and all that the Portuguese got came irom the smuggling trade. The negro trade was another immense object. The loss which the almost entire suppression of this branch of contraband trade occasions, cannot be calculated: this branch alone employed at least thirty coasting vessels be- tween the Brazils and the river La Plata. All the e^pences of the king of Portugal at Rio Janeiro, for the payment of the troops and civil officers, the carrying on of the mines, keeping the public buildings in repair, and refitting of ships, amount to about 600,000 piastres ; not mentioning the ex- pence he must be at in constructing ships of the line and fri- gates, lately begun here. The amount of the king's revenue, taken at a medium, may be tin' fifth of 150 arrobas of gold, 1,195,000 dollars; duty on diamonds, 210,000; duty on coinage, 100,000: (en per cent, customs, 350,000 ; two and a half per cent, free gift, 87,000; poll-tax, sale of offices, and other products of the mines, 225,000 ; duty on negroes, 1 10,000 ; duty on train oil, salt, soap, and the tenth on pro- visions, 130,000: in the whole 2,667,000 dollars. From •which, if you deduct theexpences, the whole of the king of Portugal's revenues from Rio Janeiro, amount to about 450,000/. sterling. The harbour of Rio Janeiro is situated West by North eighteen leagues from Cape Frio, and maybe known by a remarkable hill, in tin* form of a sugar loaf, at the west point of the bay ; but as ail the coast is \c\y high, and rises ia many peaks, the entrance of this harbour may be more certainly distinguished by the islands that lie before v.: o: e of which, called Rodonda, is hijyh and round. .ii i.e a liav ami lies at the distance of s< veil mil die entrance of the bay, in the direction ol South by v l he ; ; b ■ lo {!•«• W to ( :<( >! e first islands which arc met with coming rom :ipe rrio, arc two that have rocky appearances, each other, and at the distance ol abi.ut four :«■ shore 1 . There tire also, at the distance of nine ,. c .;;!>! r.f thes<\ two other islands which lie oiler, a little without the bay on the east side, . shore. This harbour is certainly a good , imacd, is not wide, but the sea breeze, every day irom (en or twelve o'clock till sun- ev. v for any ship to go in before the wind, and SINGULAR ADVENTURE. 27 it grows "wider as the town is approached, so tliat abreast of it there is room for the largest fleet, in five or six fathoms water, with an oozy bottom. At the narrow part, the en- trance is defended by two forts. The river, mid indeed the whole coast, abounds with a great variety offish. Though the climate is hot, the situation of this place is certainly wholesome. " Upon the whole," says captain Cook, " Rio de Janeiro is a very good place for ships to put in at that want refreshment ; the harbour is safe and commodious; and provisions, except wheaten-bread and flour, may be easily procured : as a succedaneum for bread, there are yams and casada in plenty ; beef both fresh and jerked, may be bought at about two-pence farthing a pound, though it is very lean. Mutton is scarcely to be procured, and hogs and poultry are. dear: of garden-stuff" and fruit there is abundance, of which however, none can be preserved at sea but the pumkin. Hum, sugar, and molasses, all excellent in their kind, ma v be had at a reasonable price: tobacco also is cheap, but it is not good . Here is a yard for building shipping, and a small hulk to heave down by, for, as the tide never rises above six or seven feet, there is no other way of coming at a shin's bottom, CHAP. VIII. Leave, Jtio Janeiro — An itnc.rpcded Jlcnrnnli i. ui/h r, IVhoie — Account of that i'i^h, and tin 1 various Modes of catching it — Rise and Progress of the Fisiicrjj—l'uli in icit/i the Wreck of a Ship. THE commander immediately waited on fhe viceroy. and having completed our water, we sailed again the follow- ing dv.y. On Thursday the 5th, caught ;i fine dolphin. Until [Saturday- the 21st nothing remarkable happened; but being then in latitude 3b° 3S' South, and longitude S0 : li AV(:>i fromUotulon, about 3 P. M. every person on hoard wa=; alarmed by a sudden and violent shoe!,, which was. almost im- mediately followed by a second. A man who was then lookimr out on the forecastle calied out, " a rock w.vd', : the bow? '"' E 2 -* VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. This rock, however, very fortunately for all of us, proved to be a large whale, who was probably asleep on the surface when the brig struck him; and so much stunned from the effects of the first blow, that he could not disengage himself before he received a second stroke. As he passed altern, and to leeward, he raised himself partly out of the water, making a noise similar to an elephant, when enraged. Whales and pornoises were now seen daily. Havnig had occasion to mention a very singular instance of the sir-. i!i and magnitude of a fish not generally known; it is hoped that the following account of it, and the mode of catching it, may afford information to some readers, and entertainment to man v. The whale is said sometimes to grow to the length of a hundred ici^t: though it is commonly found from %rty to seventy. The eyes are remarkably small : but the head is H a prodigious size, farming nearly "one-third of the animal; and when the jaws are extended, the creature exposes a most enormous and terrific cavity : in which is placed a tongue righ teen or twenty feet in length : and capable of yielding five or six barrels of oil. A double pipe is situated on the head, through which the whale spouts water to a great height -.;: (lie air. ° it i- supposed to feed upon the different kinds of marine worms, and likewise on sea-weeds. For the purpose of col- lecting these different sorts of nourishment, there is m the upper jaw, a nun. ber of horned lamina?, split into small di- visions, whirl; h that strong and pliant substance commonly known by the name of whalebone. There are about three hundred and fiftv, of these lamina? on each side of the jaw; five huridred of which are long enough for use. These animals:, though all ol them are inoffensive, and one species of them absolutely toothless, have, notwithstanding, their enemies : tor independent of man, who excited bv ava- rice, ventures his life in the pursuit, they have a terrible foe to contend with in the sword-fish, which torments them with- out mercy. Air. Anderson ;is>ur;s us, that at. the sight of this bftleanima! tlie u hale seems agitated in an extraordinary ' -■■•••. I'-npiiig from the water as it' with affright; wherever !'- :; i'i; '"'- ; •' v '-■ ; perceives it at a distance, and flies from : t m '';:>/ • ,<<-, r u > direct ion, ' - ; " : ' ; v ' ! • .'—'if; says Mr. .Anderson, " n spectator 1 ' ; ■■ ' a icer. 1 he whale has no instrument of ' •'• " "cep 5 <;;:■ i:::\ : with that if endeavour;; io striUe (he *-" ; 'v- •' " ! ' : '*■ ■'■■I c bh,w taking place would effectually d,t> NATURAL HISTORY OF THE WHALE. OQ stray its adversary ; but the sword-fish is as active as the other ^ air' T iM K , CaSllyaV f !s theS ™PV°rt»V 't 'between her tins when closely ?" -i7i' , P lm, 8 ln ^ vv,th lt i0 ««* bottom, in order to amd the danger: even when wounded, she continue L her « Uc hment, and clasps her young one till she is no longer able to support it : during the time the young continues -,t ie breast, which is about a twelvemonth, the sailors c\l them short-heads ; when twoy ,us old, they are termed s « U n and from hat tune forward skull-fish. The short-heads are W hen the Grecnlanders proceed to catch a whale, they SO VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. arc careful to dress themselves in tlieir best apparel, from a ridiculous notion, that the whale detests a slovenly person, and would immediately avoid them if they were not neatly clad, in (his manner a number of men aud women, some- times amounting; to more than 50, set out together in one of their large boats; the women upon these occasions, carry with them tlieir sewing implements, which are equally cm- ployed to mend their husbands' clothes, if they should be torn, or to repair the boat, if it should receive any damage in (lie seams. \V hen a whale makes its appearance on the water, the most vigorous fisherman strikes into it a harpoon, which is a sort of javelin, w< !1 steeled at one extremity, and five or six. feet long ; to this are fastened lines or straps, made of seal's skin, two or three fathoms in length, and having at the end a bag of whole seal's skin blown up : this tends in some measure to prevent the whale from sinking, and almost compels 1 it to keep near the surface of the water : where it is constantly attacked by the people in the boat, till it is killed. As soon as the animal is dead, they put on their spring iack"!Sj made all in one piece, of a dressed seal's skin ; with their hoots, gloves, and caps, which are fitted so tightly to each other, that no water can penetrate (hem : in this garb they plunge into (he sea, and begin to slice off the iht all round the whale's body, even from those parts that a re under water : this they can do by the help of (heir spring jackets, which being full of air, prevents their sit.'.ing underwater, and at (he same time enable them to keep themselves up- riffh? in the sea. These men are sometimes daring enough to mount on the back of a whale before he is quite dead, and begin »o < r,{ him in pieces. The mama r in which the wh ale fishery is carried on by the Kuroptaii is (km t!cscrib:d : when the ship* employed in (his : ■-h.e-.-. are arrived at the place where the whales arc <-\ pcc.h d i< ["'■--• they alv.ays ke< p tlteii .'ail.;;. et, aud a <,ailor is placed at ike mast-head, (o give the information v.lun he sees a whale. As -oon as ova is dheowrod, the •whole c:cw ::e instant! v in c?n] loynunt : they fit out their 'boat.-; and row i.'V-ay toim '-pot win re the whale was seen; ]_]•: I;;;;; ooncr, v.S'm is to or-i-.e (he fish, stands at 'he prow t,j ; : : . r ,1'i w\\':, on: ■ . ■'. ■ ■ :••-.(; a moot - in hitihand. whirl; is ;,! -nil -:.•'. fe: : . v.: . a;, i taunted whh steel, like the bob :irrov .<•■!';. triangular ahaoe. ['.>'■ ..'.•- ?!;e harpooner.. em Poet ; ;ss (•!;:' i 'i.n , : the ) mocio .. • ■■ •• r '•. i, ACCOUNT OF WliALfi-FlSHINO. $1 They arc liaise provided with several lances, and six lines each 120 fathoms long, fastened together. When the man at the prow strikes his harpoon into the animal ., it immediately darts towards the bottom, and car- ricsoff the harpoon with such rapidity, that were the lines V;^!^ the ieast chc <* in its passage, the boat would infallibly be overset; to prevent this, it is coiled up with the greatest care, and a man is stationed expressly to attend to the line, that it may pass without interruption. Another precaution ,s likewise highly necessary; the rope is made o run over a swivel at the edge of the boat, and the friction occasioned by its ; swift motion is so great, that the wood "'I S °°" ake , ^ ' » P"™ "id not constantly keep i vet el \\ hen the whale returns to the surface, he is Jain attacked, and once more retreats in the same manner- this is continued till he becomes faint with the loss of blood when they venture to row close alongside, and plm IT, a lance mo his breast, and through his intestines, which soon decides his fate, and the enormous animal expires. A o" as die carcass begins to float, it is towed to the ship by Ktf throu « h ,J0lcs c,lt for t^t purpose, u! the ih Jdlfn ^n h0(]j InS . been 1)r0]K ' r]j SeClirC(1 { ° t] '° si ^ Of the ship they proceed to takeout the blubber and whale- bone, after cutting off the tail, which is hoisted upon deck It is proper to observe, that the persons who are employed u tins operation are furnished with a sort of iron spurs', to prevent- heir slipmg from off the animal. After the tail is separated, they cut out square pieces of blubber, weio-hino- two or three thousand pounds each, which are likewise hoi N e,l on board, where they aredivided into smaller pieces a 1 thrown info the hold to drain ; in this manner they proc "d <.H all the blubber is secured ; after which they ,C remains of the care,., to float away, having pLio, s'y c t oat hetuo upper jaw bones, winch are considered as the , C K^? u ! K,rq ;V sM" ] «- from 30 to 70 butts of W. bbr-r, and will be. w.ath from 400/. to a 1000/ \\|, t ;;; , ;; !C ? ,h, ':i' , ' niori; ' !t themselves in the capture of these ^■:v:: J :: s ;. ^ •;;:;,«; 1 ■■:; , ;y^ v - i,! ^ 1 . *» employers give,f,-„; u ^ - - ■ - - the men wno row the boats, on every 32 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. The fishery begins in May, and ends in August, wheri they must return at all events, on account of the ice, which would otherwise hem them in. When they have made a prosperous voyage, they return in June or July ; and a ship of 300 ions burthen, when full of blubber, will produce more than 5000/. It appears from Mr. Anderson's account, that the Dutch, during the space of forty-six years previous to the year 1721, had employed 5SS6 ships in this fishery, and caught 32,907 whales ; which, valued on an average at 500/. each" will amount to above 10,000,000/. sterling. The flesh and fat of the whale are eaten by many of the •northern nations, and considered as a delicacy. However, we are not much inclined to agree with them, but rather abide by the opinion of Frederick Martens, who in his voy- age to Spitsbergen, says that it is as coarse and hard as the flesh of a bull. It is intermixed with many sinews, and is very dry and lean when boiled, as the fat is only to be found between the flesh and the skin. The flesh about the tail is preferred for boiling, not being quite so dry as the rest of the body. " \V hen we have a mind to eat of a whale," says Mar- tens, " we cut great pieces off before the tail, where it is four feet square, and boil it like other meat. Good beef I prefer far before it; yet rather than be starved, I advise to cat whale's flesh ; for none of our men died of it, and the Frenchmen did cat it almost daily, flinging it on the tops of their tubs, and letting it lie till it was black, and yet eating it in that condition." Among the Kamtschatkans, the fat of the whale was con- sidered as a first-rate delicacy, and forced down the throat of the visitor with a savage orficiousness that would not ad- mit of a refusal. This beastly hospitality is now become obsolete. For- merly, as a mark of respect to a guest, the host set before him as much food as would serve ten people. Both were stripped naked. The host refused politely to touch a bit, but compelled his friend to devour what was set before him, till he was quite gorged, and at the same time heated the place by incessantly pouring water on hot stones till it be- came insupportable. When the guest was crammed up to the threat, the generous landlord, on his knees, stuffed into his mouth a great slice of whale's fat, cutoff what hung out, and cried iu a surly tone, " Thana !" or "There!" by which he fully discharged his duty ; and, between beat- FARTHER ACCOUNT OF THE WHALE TRADE. S3 am a lelease from (he danger of being choked by the sufio eating welcome-. Inch he derived from savage hospitality. I,r flS l Norwf Sf» n . A. 0. 871, whose progress, preserved tothfwhit?r rS *? haV r be LaplaSd to the White Sea, where ngel now stands. From his ^S^r'f" ^ ! -m people were accnstled to catch whales and seals (unquestionably for their oil), of {be skins of winch they made ropes of all sizes; and alio In ?390 '.h,' fi } ° Se Skl " S th «*.*PP™ <° «" »"e purpose In SS' fi , herjr T? P ractlsr a f em.e of modesty. " Among the Hottentots," says Dr. S» arnnan, " as well as, in all probability, among i\ re '.i mankind dispersed over the whole globe, we most acknowledge the fair sex to In. the most modest; for the females of this nation cover themselves much more scuipu- lously th'.m the men. They seldom content themselves with one covering, but almost alwiys have two, and very often three. Tliese are made of :i \ re pa red and well-greased skin. and are fastened about their bodies with a thong, almost liko 33 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. the aprons of our Indies. The outermost is always (he largest, measuring from about six inches to a toot, over Inis is likewise generally, ii» fc finest and most s'.owy, and frequently adorned with glass-beads strung in din'erenl figures, in a manner that shows, even p.moii? the uiipoli&hed Hotten- tots, the superior neatness of the fair sex in works of orna- ment, as weil as their powers of invention : and tbeir dispo- sition to set off their persons to the best advantage." Both the men and women generally go bare-headed. Neither their ears nor nose are adorned with any pendant ornaments as they are among other savages. The no?;*, however, is sometimes, by way of greater state, marked with a thick streak ot soot, or with a large spot of red lead : of which lat- ter, on high days and holidays, they likewise put a little on tneir cheeks, Both sexes wear rings on their aims and le^s; most ot these are made of thick leather straps, cut in a cir- cular shape, and these have given rise to the almost univer- sally received notion, that the Hottentots wrap guts about their legs, in order to eat them occasionally. Kings of iron, copper, or brass, of the size of a goose-quill, are considered as more genteel than those of leather ; but the girls are not allowed to use any rings till they are marriageable. The Fl ottentots seld om wear any shoes. \V hat they do wear, are made of undressed leather, with the hairy side outward :' they are rendered soft and pliable, by being beat and moist- ened, and are very light and cool. Their habitations are adapted to their wandering pastoral life. They are merely huts, some of them of a circular, and some of an oblong shape, resembling a round bee-hive or a vault. The around plot is from eighteen to twenty-four feet in diameter. The highest of them are so low, that it is scarcely possible for a middle- sized man to stand upright. But neither the lowness <.f the hut, nor that of the door, which is barely three feet high, can he considered as any inconvenience to a Hottentot, who finds no difficulty in stooping and crawling on all fours, and who is at any time more inclined to lie down than s'and. The fire-place is in the middle, and they sit or iic round it in a circle. The low door is the only place that admits the light, and at the same time, the only outlet that is left lor the smoke. The Hottentot, inured to It from his infancy, sees it hover round him, without feeling the least inconvenience arising from it to his eyes; while rolled up like a hedge-hog, and wrapped up in his skin, he licsafc the bottom of his hut quite at his ease in the midst of this; cloud, except that, he is now and then, obliged to peep put A nOTTENTOT VILLAGE. S9 from beneath Ms sheep-skin, in order to stir the fire, or per- haps to light his pipe, or else, sometimes to turn the steak he is broiling over the coal. Tin; order of these huts in a craal, or clan, s most frequently in the form of a circle, with the doors inward; by which means a kind of yard is formed, where the cattle arc kept at night. The milk, as soon as it is taker from the cow, is put to other milk, which is curd- c, and is kept in a leather sack, the hairy side of which, being 1 considered as the cleanest, is turned inward ; so that the n-iik is never drank while it is swet. Such are Hottentots in the vicii ii\ cf the Cape of Good Ffope. Lieutenant i'aterson, ; :i 1778, visited a Hottentot vil- lage in the small Nimiqua Land, in the N.VV. part of the country: it consisted of 19 hats, and about 150 in- habitants. The ensign of authority worn by their chief was a cane with a brass top. given to him by the Dutch Last India Company. The Hottentots amused them part of the night, with their music and dancing • their visitors in return, treated them with tobacco and dacka, or hemp leaves which they prefer even to tobacco. Their music was pro- duced from flutes, made of the bark of trees of different sizes. The men form themselves into a circle, with their (lutes, and the women dance round them : in this manner they dance m parties the whole night, being relieved every two hours. Among other tribes of Hottentots arc the Boshmaus, who inhabit the mountains, in the interior part of the country, N. E. of the Cape of Good Hope : they are sworn enemies to the pastoral life : some of their maxims are to live on huntim* and plunder, and never to keep any animal alive for the space of one night. On this account, they themselves are pursued and exterminated, like the wild beasts whose manners they have assumed. Some of them when taken are kept alive, and made slaves of. Their weapons are poisoned arrows, winch, shot from a small bow, will hit a mark, with a tolerable degree of certainty, at the distance of 100 paces. From this distance they can with stealth, as it were, convev death to the game they hunt for food, as well as to their foes, and even to such a tremendous beast as the lion. Safe in his ambush, the Hottentot is certain of the operation of his poison, which is so virulent, that it is said he has only to wait a few minutes to see the beast expire. Their habita- tions are not more agreeable than their manners and maxims: like the wild beasts, bushes, and clefts in rocks, serve them bv turns lor dwellings. Many of them are entirely naked ; but some of them cover their body with the skin or any son of animal, great or small, from the shoulder downward as' 40 VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. far ns it will reach, wearing it fill it fall off their back in rags. As ignorant of agriculture as apes or monkies, they are obliged, like them, to wander over hills and dales afler certain wild roots, berries, and plants, which they eat raw. Their table, however, is composed of several other dishes, among which are the larva' of insects (the caterpillars, from which butterflies are produced), theterenites or white ants, grasshoppers, snakes and spiders. With all these changes or diet, the Boshnian is, nevertheless, frequently in want, and to such a degree, as to waste almost to a shadow. When captured us a sfave, he exchanges his meagre fare for the \uw\i-y of buUirmilk, frumerty, or hasty pudding, which niakes him tat in ;t few weeks. This good living, however, is soon embittered by the grumbling of l:is master and inis- 1 > «■ The words '• T'-fuzcri !" and " T'gumatsi !" which p< i'i;-.jps, are best translated by those of young sorcerer, and imp, he must frequently bear, with perhaps a few curses or blows, for neglect and' indolence. Detesting, indeed, all manner of labour, and from Ills corpulency, become still more slothful, he now sensibly resrrets his former uncon- trolled and wandering life, which he generally endeavours escaping ; but what is wonderful, whenever one <■! them effects lii> est that docs not belong to Another tribe of \{v. Ji iver, were observed h to the N. W of the jrener thafehed \\i of the back- ing i.s in dm |;i«j aj parcn'iy the i f heir dress is ron r the fiesb of which f f '] v remove \ heir h-nj; as an v nari of ue never tases in away !!l ifrass : i-es : i perior to thote were loftier, and ^ w itb stools made pus . '1 heir mode of liv- e wretched, and they are of all the Hottentot iribes. ■ skins of seals and jackals, hen a grampus is casl ashore, :. ■:: 1 subsist upon it as in this manner, ii sotne- ; '; ntofs, near ■ ?ufcmu.t JPu h in ir huts •■ \ y tentots : f 1 end were furni he £rr:>m]: \t . :hepl irrea? O! ' !< ! ! , the) sub uuo-io tueni '-ustenance foi half n year, fliough m a measure d; ;iyed and putrified by the sun. They r dieir skins with oil, the odour ei' which is so pow- . that their approach may be perceived seme time ' ■'■•■< } present themselves to view. They carry their ; .. ■' in sin il . of ostrich e^rgs. and the !)htdders of seal- , '■ iiu-y :.ii(K>t wiih arrow. 1 , the same as the ol her 1 1 often - v. lifi iespeel to tin* Hottentots in general, none of' .-eem to have nnv religion: on b; 'inir rpie^doned on die ct of a vhju'or and tcov^rnoi of toe lunvtuc, thev DUTCH TERRITORY AT THE CAPE. 41 — ^„^., tuai mey know nothing of the matter ; nor do they appear willing to receive any instruction. All of them, however, have the firmest opinion in the power of magic ; whence it might be inferred, that they believe in an evil being, analogous to what we call the devil ; but they pay no religious worship to him, though from the source they derive all the evils that happen ; and among these evils, they reckon cold, rain, and thunder. So monstrously ignorant are they, that many of the colonists assured Dr. Sparrman, that the Boshmans would abuse the thunder with many opprobriows epithets, and threaten to assault the lightning with old shoes, or any thing that comes to hand. Even the most intelligent of them could not be convinced, by all the arguments the doctor could use, that rain was not always an evil, and that it would be an happy circumstance, were it never to rain. They seem, however, to have some idea of a future state, as they reproach their friends when dead, with leaving them so soon, admonishing them to behave henceforth more properly, by which they mean, that their deceased friends should not come back again and haunt them, nor allow themselves to be made use of by wizards, to bring any mischief on those that survive. Some old au- thors have said, that the Hottentots sleep promiscuously in the same hut, and are neither acquainted with the difference of age, nor with that invincible horror which separates be- ings connected by blood. M. Vaillant, after observing that this circumstance had led some to the most infamous suspi- cions, exclaims, " Yes! the whole family inhabit the same hut ; the father lies by the side of his daughter, and the mo- ther by the sen, but on the return of Aurora, each rises with a pure heart, and Without having occasion to blush before the Author of all Beings, or any of the creatures that he has marked with the seal of his resemblance." The country possessed by the Dutch is of pretty conside- rable extent, comprehending not only the large tract between. Table Bay and False Bay, but that which is called Hotten- tot Holland, extending from False Bay to the Cabo dos Agulhas, or Cape of Needles, and the country farther Fast beyond St. Christopher's River, called Terra de Natal. The whole of this country is naturally barren and mountainous - but the industrious Dutch have overcome all natural diffi- culties, and it produces not only a sufficiency of all the ne- cessaries of life for the inhabitants, but also ; >r ihe refresh- ment of alt the European ship that touch here. The Dutch consider the year as divided into two seasons, which thcy KEITH.] G VOYAGE TO SOUTH AMERICA. ; the wet monsoon, or wmtei, ~~n Th « f one, or summer ; the first begins with our spring in March, the latter with September, when our summer ends. In the bad season, (heCapeis much subject to fogs: in Juneand July it rains almost continually till summer. The weather in win- ter is cold, raw, and unpleasant; but never more rigorous than autumn in Germany. Water never freezes to above the thickness of half-a-crown, and as soon as the sun appears, the ioe is dissolved. The Cape is rarely visited by thunder and lightning, excepting a little near the turn of the season, which never does any hurt. Among the quadrupeds of this country are antelopes, which go in herds of 200 or 300 each, buffaloes, cameleopar- dilises, the gemsbock, or chamois, a species of antelope, which has remarkably long sharp horns, and, when attacked by dogs, will set on its hind quarters and defend itself; wild dogs, much larger than the jackal, which travel in herds, and are very destructive to flocks of sheep; elephants, elks, hyaenas, the koedo, an animal of a mouse colour, ra- ther larger than our deer, with three white stripes over the back, and the male having very large twisted horns ; lions, jackals, tigers, the quacha, a species of the zebra, but more tractable ; rhinoceroses, horses, domestic horned cattle, common sheep, and a peculiar species of sheep, which are covered with hair instead of wool. The hippopotamus, or river horse, is frequently seen here. Among the birds, are vultures, ostriches, whose eggs are excellent food, andtheloxia, a species of gregarious bird, which builds its curious nest in the mimosa tree, where it forms a kind of thatched house, with a regular street of nests on both sides, at about two inches distance from each other, and contain- ing under its roof, in one that lieutenant Patterson saw, from 800 to 1000 birds. The termites, or white ants, which do no injury to the wood, as in the East Indies, but to the grass, the destruction of which they occasion by raising a, number of hills, which impede the progress of vegetation. The Hottentots eat them, and lieutenant Patterson, who tasted this food, found it far from disagreeable. The locusts also are esteemed excellent food by the Boshmans, by whom they arc dried and kept for use. The black or rock scor- pion is nearly as venomous here as any of the serpent tribe, of which there are numerous kinds. There are six species * bout the Cape, namely, the horned snake, about eighteen inches long, the most poisonous of them all : the kouseband or garter snake, about the same length, dangerous to tra- velers on account of resembling the soil so much in colour, DESCRIPTION OF AFRICAN SERPENTS. 43 , , .* • ♦ ^oailr perceived ; the yellow snake, which dif- feSltcXurTnlvfrom the hooded snake of India and be- ing from four to eight feet in length their size and bright yeUow colour renders it easy to avoid them ; the puff adder, about 40 inches in length, so called from blowing itself up to near a foot in circumference ; the spring adder, very dan- gerous, but not common, from three to tour feet long, and Sfaiet black, with white spots ; and the night snake, more beautiful than any of the others, about 20 inches long, very thin, belted with black, red, and yellow, and when near, at ni