PRACTICAL ANDSCAPE GARDENING ROBERT B.CRIDLAND THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOR TO EMINENT HORTICULTURIST ADVISER AND FRIEND JOSEPH MEEHAN Practical Landscape Gardening THE IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING LOCATING THE HOUSE ARRANGEMENT OF WALKS AND DRIVES CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES LAWNS AND TERRACES HOW TO PLANT A PROPERTY LAYING OUT A FLOWER GARDEN ARCHI- TECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN ROSE GARDENS AND HARDY BORDERS WILD GARDENS AND ROCK GARDENS PLANTING PLANS AND PLANTING LISTS BY ROBERT B. CRIDLAND New York A. T. DELAMARE COMPANY, INC. 1922 FIRST EDITION Copyright, 1916, by A. T. DE LA MARE PRINTING AND PUBLISHING Go. LTD. SECOND EDITION Copyright, 1918 by A. T. DE LA MARE COMPANY, INC. SECOND EDITION First Printing, January, 1918 Second Printing, April, 1920 Third Printing, January, 1922 All rights reserved FOREWORD This book is the outcome of a series of articles on Landscape Gardening which appeared periodically in THE FLORISTS' EXCHANGE. At the suggestion of the publisher these articles have been aug- mented, new subjects added, and the whole more thoroughly illustrated than was possible in the limited space of a magazine treatise. The book is designed to appeal, in particular, to that large body of sub- urban home owners who have moderate sized properties susceptible of artistic arrangement and beautification. It is not possible for the majority of men and women to give a sufficient amount of time to the study of design, horticulture and gardening, in order to treat their individual properties in a practical and artistic manner, and although nearly every one possesses the sense of taste to the extent of appreciating the difference between that which is pleasing and that which is crude or grotesque in the com- pleted subject, very few have the time, imagination and constructive power necessary to formulate a design which will represent fully the capabilities of their own grounds, whether it be a small plot or an estate of some acres. To assist all who are interested in the artistic development of their home surroundings it has been the author's aim in this book to set forth, in a clear and logical way, the basic principles which will bring about the most desirable environment, from a gardening standpoint, of the moderate sized city lot or the suburban estate, however limited that may be. The text has been made as brief as possible to give more space than usual to photographic illustrations, sketches and plans, so that each subject treated may be more readily understood and applied. 4 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Long lists of trees, shrubs, and flowers have been omitted except in those instances where planting plans are shown, accompanied by planting keys. In preparing these planting keys the type of plant necessary to secure the best ettect has been considered, rather than individual varieties, and these keys are therefore subject to modification so as to suit existing conditions. While the initial intention of the articles was to assist those engaged in gardening as a business, it is the desire of the author that all who take pleasure in the art of gardening may find in this book some additional incentive to attain that which is beautiful in landscape design. I wish to gratefully acknowledge the valuable assistance rendered by Mr. Stanley V. Wilcox and Mr. A. T. De La Mare in the arrangement of this book. ROBERT B CRIDLAND. Philadelphia, May 9, 1916. PUBLISHERS' NOTE TO SECOND EDITION Expecting that Mr. Robt. B. Cridland's book would be well received on account of the thorough manner in which he had covered his subject, we printed a much larger first edition than is usual with works of this character. So great, however, has been the demand, so successful the book, that in less than eighteen months a second edition has been called for. The work in its text matter and illustrations could not easily be improved, therefore few changes have been made, with the exception of the addition of five more planting plans and keys covering moderate sized properties. A. T. DE LA MARE Co. INC. New York, January 15, 1918. PUBLISHERS' NOTE TO SECOND EDITION, THIRD PRINTING To publish a book the contents of which make for the happiness, contentment and welfare of our citizens, and to have that book appreciated as has been the case with this one, evidenced by its now passing into its third printing of the second edition, is ample reward to writer and publishers for their joint efforts on behalf of congenial home ground surroundings. A. T. DE LA MARE Co. INC. New York, January, 1922. CONTENTS (For Classified Index see pages 275 and 276) CHAPTER I IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING Greater Enjoyment of Our Surroundings Expression of Taste and Personality Enjoyment of Others Uplift to the Community Economy of Execution The Plan The Grading Plan The Planting Plan. CHAPTER II LOCATING THE HOUSE EXPOSURE CHAPTER III ARRANGEMENT OF WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES CHAPTER IV CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES Cement Walks Macadam Walks Red Gravel Walks Flagstone Walks Brick Walks Stepping Stone Walks Terrace Walks Dutch Tile Walks Driveways of Cement Waterbound Macadam Bituminous Roads Cement Surfacing Cement Approaches Gutters Cement Gutters Rubble Gutters Brick Gutters Sod Gutters Care of Sod Gutters Ca^ch Basins Gratings Connecting Catch Basins with Drainage Lines. CHAPTER V LAWNS: GRADING, CONSTRUCTION AND UPKEEP Preliminary Preparations Lawns Ascending from Highways Lawns Descending from Highways Sub-Grade Underdrainage Lawn Grading- Larger Areas House Below Pavement Grade Terraces Lawn Making Sodding Seeding Grass Seeds. CHAPTER VI ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS The Background for the House Framing the House Trees for Framing the House Base Plantings What to Avoid in Base Plantings Plants for Base Plantings (Shrubs) Plants for Base Plantings (Broad-leaved Ever- greens) Unity in Lawn Plantings Planting for Detail Avoid Straight Lines Avoid Rows of Trees Along Curved Driveways Lines of Trees for Straight Driveways Specimen Lawn Trees Lawn Groupings Planting in Lawn Depressions Planting in Valleys Boundary Plantings Variety in Border Plantings Edging the Border Plantings Evergreens in Border Plantings Specimen Trees in Front of Border Plantings Avoid Odd Shaped Beds in Lawn Center Ornamental Planting on the Farm Summary Tree Planting Pruning Tree Planting with Dynamite Moving Large Trees Root Pruning Care of Trees and Shrubs Insect Pests. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING CHAPTER VII THE FLOWER GARDEN Classification of Gardens Garden Dimensions and Design Garden Entrance Garden Background Garden Enclosures Height of Garden Enclosures Garden Walls Gray Sandstone Walls Coping Brick Walls The Stucco Wall Dry Stone Walls Hedges Retaining Walls Garden Steps Piers Walks and Beds Width of Walks Materials for Walks Turf Walks Brick Walks Red Gravel Stepping Stones Flagstones Slate Tanbark Borders Garden Beds, /idth Preparing Garden Beds Humus Floral Treatment Bulbs Annuals Hardy Shrubs Evergreens Treatment of Gardens Constructed on More than One Level Planting Around Garden Enclosures Water in the Garden. CHAPTER VIII ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN Sundials Bird Baths Fountains and Pools Depth Construction Pool Coping Water Supply and Drainage Garden Pools with Fountain Heads Planting Near Garden Pools Plants in the Pool The Plants Fish Swimming Pools Water Supply Garden Seats Garden Houses Pergolas Floors Color of Wooden Garden Features. CHAPTER IX HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS Perennial Borders Location of Hardy Borders Avoid Borders Next to a Hedge Turf Edge for Beds Borders Along a Fence Borders in the Vegetable Garden Width of Borders Preparation of Beds Time to Plant Summer Care Arrangement of Plants in Hardy Borders Border Beds Should not be Graduated Evenly as to Height Back ground for Borders Rose Chains in Perennial Borders Arches Over Walks Planting in Clumps Bulbs and Tubers Spring Bulbs Summer Flowering Bulbs Autumn Bulbs Annuals in the Borders Rose Gardens Rose Garden Designs Position Beds Preparation of Beds Planting and Care Varieties Climbing Roses. CHAPTER X WILD GARDENS u T i?-ij W S d Garden as an Isolated Feature Walks Beds Planting in the Wild Garden Flowers in the Wild Garden Rock Gardens Garden Locations Placing of Rocks Soil Arrangement of Plants Moisture Important Garden Steps with Pockets for Plants Time of Planting bhrubs in Rock Gardens Evergreens in the Rock Garden The Heathers. CHAPTER XI PLANTING PLANS AND PLANTING KEYS GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS ILLUSTRATIONS AND PLANS Approach, Construction of a Cement 59 Approaches. See Entrance Arrangements. Ash, American. Fraxinus americana 97 Back Yard Planting 209 Base Plantings 86, 87, 88, 89 Birch, White (Betula alba laciniata pendula) 100 Bird Bath, The 174 Border and Boundary Plantings. .92, 94, 95, 103, 104, 105, 107, 108, 110, 196, 199, 200, 201, 202, 203, 206, 207, 208, 212 Brick Garden Wall 141 Brick Walks 53, 54 Catch Basins 63 Cedar, Deodara (Cedrus Deodara) 98 Cedrela, The (Cedrela sinensis) 83 Cement Walks, Construction of 49, 50 Chrysanthemums, Hardy, in a Border Along the Wall 199 Construction Details of the Garden. See Garden Construction. Construction of Lawns. See Lawn Grading. Dogwood, Pink Flowering 13 Drive and Walk Entrances. . See Entrance Arrangements. Driveways, Construction of 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62 Dry Wall Gardening 225 Entrance Arrangements 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46 Farm Plantings Ill, 112 Flagstone Walks 51 Flower Garden, The. . . . 125, 127, 131, 134, 136, 137, 139, 141, 145, 147, 152, 153, 154, 157, 158, 160, 161, 164, 165, 168 Fountain and Pool 175 Garden, Construction Details of the. . . .139, 141, 142, 145, 148, 150, 151, 157, 158 Garden Entrance 192, 193 Garden House 185, 186, 187, 195 Garden, Rock 229 Gardening, Dry Wall 225 Garden on Three Levels, Sketch of 166 Garden Pergola 189, 190, 191 Garden Seats 182, 183, 184 Garden Steps 148, 227, 228 Garden, The Flower. See Flower Garden. Garden Pools 176, 177 Garden Walls, Construction of 150, 151 Garden, Wild 220, 223, 224 Ginkgo or Maidenhair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia) 81 Grading of Lawns. See Lawn Grading. Gutter Construction 60, 61 Harmony, A Study in .... 17 8 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Page Hollyhocks in a Border Planting 207 House, Framing the ', House, The Best Exposure for, in Relation to the Sun . 21 House, The, Various Studies in Locating on a Small Lot .... 19, 2,2., 26, 2$, Z5, Landscape Development, In its First Stage of Larch, The European (Larix europaea) * Lawn Groupings J4, 95 Lawn, Specimen Trees for the. See Trees, Specimen, etc. Lawns, Grading of 64, 66, 67, 69, 71, 73, 75, 77 Locating a House on a Small Lot. See House, The Various Studies in, etc. Macadam Driveways, Construction of 57, 58 Macadam Walks 49 Moving Trees 121 Oak, Pin (Quercus palustris) 96 Ornamental" Plantings 78, 79, 80, 86, 87, 88, 89 Perennial Borders 200, 201, 202 Pergola, Garden 189, 190, 191 Personal Note in the Design (Lombardy Poplars) 12 Phlox, Hardy, in a Border Planting 199 Planning, A Result of Careful 14 Planting for Ornamental Purposes. See Ornamental Plantings. Planting for Unity, Detail and Effect 85, 86, 87, 95, 104, 113 Planting Plans and Keys. . . .95, 128, 129, 130, 131, 132, 134, 135, 167, 168 169, 214, 215; 232 to 273 Planting Trees. See Tree Planting. Plantings, Base. See Base Plantings. Pools, Garden 176, 177 Poplars, Lombardy 12 Rear Yard Artistically Planted 209 Rock Garden 229 Rose Arches 218 Rose Garden, A Design for 214, 215 Rose Garden on an Ascending Grade 217 Slate Walks 52 Spruce, Koster's Blue (Picea pungens Kosteriana). 99 Standpipe for Garden Pool Overflow and Drainage 178 Steps, Garden 148, 227, 228 Stone Walks 55 Stucco Walls 142 Swimming Pool 180 Terrace Walks 56 Terraces, Grading of 69, 71, 73 Tree Moving 121 Trees, Specimen, for the Lawn 81, 82, 83, 96, 97, 98^ 99, 100 Vegetable and Flower Garden 136 Vegetable Garden on an Old Farm Property 113 Tree Planting 116, 117, 118 Vista, Establishing a 11 Walk and Drive Entrances. See Entrance Arrangements. Walk, Dominant Main, with Smaller Service Walk Somewhat Removed. 28 Walks, Construction of 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56 Walls: Construction of, 150, 151; Dry Stone, 226; Brick, 141; Stucco 142; Retaining, 145, 158. Wild Garden, The 220 223 224 Yard Planting V.V.'.V. 209 IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING CHAPTER I IMPORTANCE OF CAREFUL PLANNING How very seldom it is that the home builder gives the same thought and consideration to his outdoor home surroundings that he gives to the interior of his home ! Do we not enter a man's home the moment we set foot on the property, and not, as generally ac- cepted, when we cross the threshold ? There are many important reasons for the careful planning of the home grounds and I would lay particular stress on these: The greater enjoyment of our surroundings; The expression of taste and personality; The enjoyment of others; The uplift of the com- munity; The economy of execution. GREATER ENJOYMENT OF OUR SURROUNDINGS To get the greatest amount of enjoyment out of our home sur- roundings from a purely practical standpoint the drives, the walks and other utilitarian features should be carefully planned in their relation to the house. Much thought should also be given to the location and arrangement of the garage, stable, chicken houses, and other buildings apart from the main house. From an esthetic standpoint an even greater amount of thought should be given to the accentuating, through the correct framing of any architectural features of the house (Fig. 1); to screening out unsightly views; to the establishing of vistas; and to the locating and planting of the gardens. Every tree and shrub, every plant and plantation, should bear a definite relation, one to the other, in the general scheme. EXPRESSION OF TASTE AND PERSONALITY It is a very welcome thought that, as yet, the taste and refine- ment of the average home builder is not judged entirely by the exterior arrangement and adornment of his property. It is only when it is brought to his attention through some striking incident that the average man is brought to the realization that, to the ma- 10 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ( Vc fpllnw* the exterior appointments of the home stand for I the" be cheap and tawdry he is judged to if the arrangement is orderly and artistic he is "tt^S'therefore, that our exterior surroundings reflect us toily No matter how small the space, it is possible to beau- Sv it Among all the arts of design none is so varied in its apph- ation as that pertaining to landscape gardening Every subject has surrounding^ which influence the treatment best suited to its needs- it may be the configuration of the ground, or the presence of Nature's gifts of woodland and water; it may be unattractive nearby scenes, or beautiful distant views; often, lacking all, we must create scenes' within the boundaries. The personal note continually enters into the design (Fig. 2). Some lean toward an arrangement that is stiff and formal, others to the flowing and graceful; some are partial to evergreens, others to deciduous trees and shrubs. In the floral adornment much oppor- tunity is given for individual taste in the arrangement, the color scheme, and the seasons of bloom. ENJOYMENT OF OTHERS This is an unselfish reason for more careful planning and worthy of mention from that standpoint alone. Have some thought for your neighbor and the passerby. Surely such an opportunity is not to be overlooked, for of all pleasures none is to be compared with that which brings joy to the heart of others. The owner who plans, builds and cultivates beautiful things is a benefactor, and in no channel of thought or activity is there greater or more satisfying response than in the creation of the beautiful in landscape design (Fig. 3), showing a well placed flowering specimen. UPLIFT TO THE COMMUNITY Nothing is so conducive to general carelessness, slovenliness and neglect as ill kept, unkempt and untidy exteriors. Likewise, nothing is more elevating and uplifting to a community than well arranged, artistic properties (Fig. 4) with well kept lawns and gar- dens. The effect of such surroundings is magical in its influence, and creates an insistent desire in others for the equal possession of that which is pleasing and beautiful. Figs. 5 and 6 show property before and after planting, from same point of view. THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING ESTABLISHING A VISTA * Fig. 1. Well planned exteriors add greatly to the enjoyment of our surroundings. This planting arrangement emphasizes the bay window on the stairway. See page 9 12 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE PERSONAL NOTE IN THE DESIGN Fig. 2 Lombardy Poplars. In the landscape treatment there is a wide choice of material to suit the individual taste. See pages 1 and 84 THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING PINK FLOWERING DOGWOOD Fig. 3. There is a great and satisfactory response to be secured through the cultivation of beautiful trees. See pages 10 and 84 14 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A RESULT OF CAREFUL PLANNING Fig. 4. The residence here illustrated is an example of the good results to be obtained from careful planning, See page 10 THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 15 Every house in a community should contribute toward the en- joyment of the inhabitants thereof, in some little artistic excellence, and it is inexplainable why we have so many heterogeneous, unattrac- tive and commonplace properties in communities otherwise refined and cultured. Lack of foresight in the planning is usually the cause. It is important, therefore, that not only individuals, but communities in general plan carefully for the house surroundings. ECONOMY OF EXECUTION From a purely practical and financial standpoint much can be said of the importance of careful planning. Landscape work at- tempted without the most careful consideration of all the details is never very satisfactory and usually entails large additional expen- ditures for omissions and revisions. In the planning of landscape work the floral adornment is really only one of the many features which must be considered. To make the most of our opportunities, and to solve easily questions of proper grading and draining, the planning for landscape features should start with the locating of the house From this point, questions of walk and drive arrangement, walk and drive construction, lawn grading and making, drainage, the garden and the garden details, should all be taken up in order. It is only when we have a preconceived and specific plan combining all these elements that the landscape work can proceed in an orderly and economical manner. THE PLAN The plan represents the conception of the designer committed to paper in a specific and comprehensive manner. Any development, to be worth while, should be studied in the plan before attempting to execute the work on the ground. In landscape work it is usually advisable to have two general plans the grading plan and the planting plan. THE GRADING PLAN The grading plan is the essential beginning of the landscape design; the foundation on which the picture we desire to create will be realized. It shows the location and arrangement of all the prac- tical and utilitarian features. It provides for the walks and drives THE PERSONAL NOTE IN PLANNING 17 A STUDY IN HARMONY Fig. 6. Well arranged, artistic properties are an uplift to the community. The building is the same as that shown on page 1 6. See page 1 18 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING and gives the established grades for the same. It shows in a con- crete form the scheme devised for the grading and lawn making, the proper preparation of all portions on which turf is wanted. The gardens are located, grades established, enclosures and architectural features, such as fountains and pools, provided for. Questions of drainage are carefully considered and taken care of; also the water supply for lawns, gardens, fountains and pools. In fact, all the physical features are provided for and specified so that estimates for the whole or for any part of the work may easily be secured. To prepare a grading plan there must first be a simple survey of the property. The map of the survey should show the property lines and existing features, such as large trees, buildings, roads, if any, all in their true relative dimensions and positions. In connection with this survey levels should be taken showing the existing contours at intervals of from one to five feet, according to the slope of the ground. Also elevations at the base of trees and in the vicinity of buildings, the sidewalk elevation, and the crown of the highway. I will not go very deeply into the technicalities of making a survey or of running levels. On small properties anyone with a knowledge of simple engineering can get all the data necessary; on larger estates a topographical survey is necessary. THE PLANTING PLAN The planting plan represents the horticultural and esthetic part of the design. It shows the selection and distribution of the trees and plants, each having a definite purpose and a direct bearing on the whole general scheme. In the making of such a plan all the questions that the reader will find taken up and considered in the chapters on Tree and Shrub Planting, Flower Gardens, etc., are important, and their application is shown in Chapter XI, where many concrete examples will be found. LOCATING THE HOUSE 19 CHAPTER II LOCATING THE HOUSE When planning the house, even for a small plot, much consid- eration should be given to the proper location. The aim should be to secure comfort, pleasure and enjoyment for the occupants, not only from the interior, but as well from as much of the exterior as may be embraced. Some thought should be given, too, to the presentment of the best architectural features of the house to the view of those from without. EXPOSURE The course of the sun in relation to the principal rooms of the house should be of the first importance. Fig. 7 shows the points of the compass and the comparative value of each exposure. The location of the majority of small houses is governed by the street. The highways usually run north and south, or east and west, and so the houses are placed accordingly, invariably facing the street. This is a practice that should be discontinued if we are to get all the enjoyment possible out of our homes. There is no good reason why we should not turn the house entirely around if necessary to get the best exposure. By careful planning of the house and grounds, the kitchen wing may, if advisable, face the street with more pleasure and comfort to the occupants, and with- out objection to the passerby. Figs. 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 show houses variously lo- cated on small lots. On larger estates the house should really be planned for the house site, and not the site for the house, as STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT Fig. 1 4. A house on an eminence with rising ground in the rear.- See page 20 20 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING is so often the case. Here, too, we have the question of best ex- posure, and, in addition, consideration must be given to the back- ground, views, and drainage. The house should always be on an eminence, but need not neces- sarily be on the highest point of the ground (Fig. 14). In fact, it is often advisable to select a site with rising ground at the rear. If the rising ground be wooded the house will appear more attractive and fit more snugly into the landscape. For the best view one can always ascend to the higher point for observation and the scene will be more enjoyable for the occasional visit than it would be if it were continually within the line of vision. It is often possible to locate the house so that the principal rooms are on the axis of some beautiful distant view. This point should not be overlooked when the site is selected. The question of drainage is an important one. To secure com- fort and health in a home the cellar and foundation should always be dry. The ideal location is one where the ground slopes directly away from the house on all four sides (Fig. 15, page 77). When such a location is not available the character of the soil should be con- sidered and, if the ground is wet, underdrains should be provided. The attitude usually assumed that no consideration need be given to the landscape treatment when locating houses on small plots, needs modification. While the house must be the dominant feature, a careful study of surrounding conditions, of exposure and exterior adornment, will well repay the owner. It is much to be regretted that, on account of the generally in- considerate placing of the house, most of our lawn area is in the rear of the house. Certainly this gives a larger measure of privacy, but too often this privacy is a detriment. People grow careless of that which is not open for all to see. Backyards provide a con- venient place for the accumulation of trash and rubbish and soon the lawn is in danger of being neglected. In older communities where more consideration is given to landscape design in modeling the home grounds this condition is on the wane and the rear is considered of equal importance as the front (Figs. 11 and 12). A much better scheme is that of placing the house well to the rear of the lot, leav- ing but a small space at the back; or of placing the house well to one side, allowing a more extended lawn from the front to rear line. If the exposure is good the principal rooms of the house may be planned to face the lawn rather than the street. LOCATING THE HOUSE 22 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 5 . 8.-House ated well to B rear of the > t with raight box ordered proach. See page 19 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT LOCATING THE HOUSE 23 Fig. 9.-House f ac in; the street with - . \ .^Jv.--/r "<=333BSM straight ap- .. :.'*^^ : -5WF.\ proach.-See page 19 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 24 PRACTICAL1LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 10.- House located well to the rear of lot, showing treatment with curved walk, entering from the side to give apparent breadth to the property. See pages 19 and 29 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON SMALL LOT LOCATING THE HOUSE 25 Fig. 11. House located with kitchen wing facing the street; hidden by the plant- ing. See pages 19 and 20 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT 26 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT LOCATING THE HOUSE 27 STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 29 CHAPTER III ARRANGEMENTS OF WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES After the site for the house has been located the next provision to be made concerns the best arrangement of walks and drives. Here, as in all the other features of landscape development, we have a wide latitude and are not confined to any one particular style. Every property has its individual conditions; these must be care- fully considered, for they will more or less influence the designer of the drive and walk arrangement. One principle, however, is fixed: Drives and walks must be as direct as possible without being forced or twisted; they should approach by means of straight lines or by easy, graceful curves. The house being the objective point, the trend should always be in its direction. The approach, when from the side, should be so placed that a good perspective of the house will attract the eye as one comes toward it. If some architectural feature in the house is a dominant note and worthy of attention arrange the curve so that, at a certain point, this feature will hold the center of the pic- ture. Some such feature may be a prettily designed window, door- way, oriole bay window, or a well designed gable end. When the house is situated at some distance from the highway, the foreground fairly level, and the property of considerable depth, a straight approach (Fig. 16) on the axis of the portal, such as the straight, box-bordered approaches of the old Southern homes, is most pleasing. In a straight approach (Fig. 17) there should be no circles, such as we often see, around which a detour must be made before the house is reached. On a property of little breadth the straight walk through the center bisects the lawn, leaving two tracts which are very difficult to treat. On such a property it is better to confine the walk to one side (Fig. 10) and arrange the planting to accentuate the breadth. In the majority of cases drive and walk should enter at a right angle to the property line (Fig. 18) and finish parallel to the house. Fig. 19 shows an improper method of intersection with front pavement. WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 31 Fig. 18. Good entrance arrangement. Walk entering at a right angle to the property line. See page 29 Fig. 19. Poor entrance arrangement. Walk not at a right angle to property Iine.^5ee page 29 When a residence is located on a highway where all or nearly all of the traffic is from one point, the entrance drive (Fig. 20) should favor that direction. Such an arrangement is also desirable when the ground on the opposite side of the road is precipitous or dangerous. The entrance gate should be toward that side of the property from which the greater portion of the traffic may be expected. It is a decided mistake to place the entrance at a point where it will necessitate the crossing of the breadth of the lot and then having Fig. 20. Entrance arrangement when traffic is all from one direction to return to the house after entering the property. Where the traffic is likely to be just as great from one direction as from another it is quite practicable and pleasing to have two entrances with a semi-cir- cular walk to the front (Fig. 21). This is feasible where the width of the lot is about equal to the distance (or a little less) from the PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 33 Fig. 22. Plan showing two entrances close to party line fences front property line to the residence. Such an arrangement is more pleasing than a straight walk down the center. It gives the ap- pearance of the lawn expanse and apparently greater breadth. When placing the entrance at the side (Fig. 22) a sufficient space should be left between the walk and the party line for some orna- mental planting. When it is desirable to have two entrances (Fig. 23), one may be for pedestrians and the other for vehicles. It is well to have the service walk (Figs. 24 and 24A) somewhat removed from the front of the house if possible. The main walk leading to the front of the house should be dominant, the service walk narrower. Where the length of the walk is sufficient it is advisable to have greater variety and beauty by having a reverse curve (Fig. 25), but this is only permissible where the distance is at least fifty feet. Corner properties (Figs. 26 and 26A) may be entered from the corner, but such entrances are rather difficult to arrange in a satis- 34 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 23. Two entrances; one for pedestrians, one for vehicles. See page 33 factory way. Where such a scheme is adopted it is best to have the piers set well back from the line, placing them tangent to the arc of the circle with the center at the in- tersection of the two property lines. This will leave two small grass plots on either side of the walk which may be pleasingly treated with ornamental plantations. When locating a drive or walk where it is desired to avoid the direct line, it is well to select a point (Fig. 27), if practicable, where some formidable feature, such as a large tree, makes some deviation from the straight line necessary. On properties where the resi- dence is located not less than seventy feet from the front line, which distance is essential to give Fig. 24. Plan showing the walk to service end of house somewhat removed from the house. See page 33 WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 35 a proper turning space for cars with a large wheel- base, an entrance (Fig 28). may be placed on the axis of the house and the drive constructed to a true cir- cle. This is a particularly appropriate arrangement for houses of classic de- sign. On narrow ways the entrance posts should set well back (Fig. 29) to afford an easy turn into the property. The piers defining an entrance should always be set at right angles to the road- way and where the en- trance is at an angle, the fence or enclosing mater- ial, be it hedge or wall, should extend by a graceful curve to the piers. A more pleasing and comfortable approach will be provided by keeping the fence two to four feet back from the pier, and finish- ing against the pier at a right angle, rather than finishing directly to the center of the face of the pier toward the highway. The question of width and grade of approaches is of vital im- portance. If the elevation from the highway to the residence be great, the ascent should be as gradual as practicable, crossing the contours at the greatest possible angle. To cross a contour at a right angle gives the steepest grade and is to be avoided. When laying off the drive, set the dividers with twenty-five or fifty feet between the points and run around the contour map along a pos- sible line of ascent, figuring out the ^ C ^== maximum of grade desired. A six Fig. 26.-Plan showing arrangement f* C ? nt ' 8 rade > that is > a rise f six foi a corner entrance.^See page 33 feet m every one hundred feet of Fig 25. Plan showing arrangement of the approach where the house sets too far back to be reached by a single arc of a circle, and a reverse is necessary. See page 33 36 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 37 38 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 28. Entrance on axis of house, with drive constructed to a true circle. See page 35 drive, is an ideal grade. A ten per cent, grade, i.e., a rise of ten feet in every one hundred feet of drive, should be the maximum. A line in between these two should be established. In mountainous countries, of course, it is often necessary to establish a twelve to fifteen per cent, grade. On adjoining properties (Fig. 30) it is possible at times to have a party drive and turn, allowing an entrance to both properties from two streets, thereby affording a maximum of convenience with econ- omy of space. In contracted spaces, where houses are close together (Fig. 31), WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES Fig. 29. Entrance posts set back with hedge or wall finishing at a right angle to the pier. See page 35 party drives are preferable to having two driveways paralleling each other, and where it is only necessary to provide for motor cars, two tracks constructed of cement are to be preferred to a driveway. Given a house on a higher level than the street, and only a short distance from pavement to house line, an arrangement of approach steps as shown in Fig. 32 will lengthen the walk, allowing it to come out to the lot line; in such a case the grass slopes on each side can still be maintained. Where the house is located on a level higher than the street level but near the same, it will add to the interest, and picturesqueness as well, if the approach is placed at one side, as shown in Fig. 33. The terrace level here is eight feet above the pavement, and the approach is arranged in four flights of steps. The belt planting gives privacy and the approach is planned so that it does not interfere with this feature. The drive turns (Figs. 34, 35, 36, 37 and 38), which are usually provided at the rear or side of the house, were quite roomy in former days with a diameter of fifty feet. The coming of the automobile has made it necessary to provide a diameter of seventy feet. The elliptical or egg-shaped turn is more desirable than the true circle. This allows of a rather flat side next to the house so that a waiting vehicle will be standing in the proper position. This is not possible on a turn that is part of the arc of a circle. When crossing a stream where a bridge is required (Fig. 39) it is advisable to cross at a right angle to the stream so that the wing walls may be built symmetrically. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WALKS, DRIVES AND [ENTRANCES 41 42 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 43 Fig. 33. Entrance arrangement for house on a level just slightly higher than the pavement. See page 39 WIDTH OF WALKS AND DRIVES As regards width, the walks should not be less than four feet six inches. The driveways should not be less than fourteen feet where it may be necessary to have vehicles pass, or ten feet where 44 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 34. The elliptical turn is attractive and practical either directly in front of the house or at the end. The ends should be full to give ample turning space. See page 39 the entrance is within sight of the turn. Where a great expanse of ground makes it more consistent with a proportionate entrance to have greater width, the drives may be made sixteen or eighteen feet. This greater width is really necessary now to allow motor cars to pass one another comfortably. Fig. 35. To provide turning space for the largest motor cars it is necessary to have a circle not less than seventy feet in diameter. The center should be directly on the axis of the entrance door. See page 39 Where possible, the pedestrian walk should be combined with the drive, thus eliminating the further breaking up of the lawn. Walks and drives are necessary, but cannot be considered as pleasing land- scape features where lawn space is small. Any scheme that will help to preserve the unbroken unity is to be desired. WALKS, DRIVES AND ENTRANCES 45 Fig. 36. The egg-shaped turn should always be placed at the end of the house and be well concealed by plantings. See page 39 Fig. 37. A modified pear-shaped turn with the line nearest the house parallel to it. Such a turn is less desirable for the front of the house than one of formal design. See page 39 46 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 4 i i. ^*. P| ^lilfe lib ^^L <^C^ ^P K iP Fig. 38. The rectangular turn is dignified and especially appropriate for Colonial houses. The center grass space may be enclosed with box edging to good effect. See page 39 Fig. 39.-When a drive or walk crosses a stream where a bridge is required it is advisable to cross at a nght angle to the stream so that the wing walls may be built symmetrically. See page 39 CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 47 CHAPTER IV CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES Walks and driveways are features which should be built with a view to permanency. The first cost of a properly constructed walk or road should not be considered prohibitive unless equal consideration be given to the expense of maintaining a poorly con- structed one. Main walks should not be less than four feet six inches wide, and where a great expanse of ground makes it consistent with a proportionate entrance they may be five or six feet. CEMENT WALKS Cement makes a good, permanent material for walks (Figs. 40 and 41) and eliminates further upkeep, care and expense. It will outlast any other walk material with the exception of North River flagstone. For heavy soils a foundation of cinders eighteen inches deep is recommended. This may be reduced to six inches or omitted altogether on light and sandy soils. Three inches of concrete and one inch of cement finish make a durable walk. A three-quarter inch expansion joint should be provided every twenty to twenty-five feet. This should extend through the concrete base as well as the cement surface. The joint may be filled with asphalt or sand (Fig. 42). Cement walks have very little to recommend them from an esthetic point of view. The surface is glaring in Summer and slip- pery in Winter. If the top is roughened with a coarse broom when put down the surface will be more pleasing than the customary smooth finish with small and regular indentations made with a roughened roller. A cement walk with roughened surface should have a smooth margin two inches wide on each side. The glare from cement walks may be reduced by tinting the surface coat with mortar stain. The stain should be used in small quantities, and only the very best make, care being taken when mixing to have the color thoroughly worked through the mass, other- wise it injures the quality of the cement. On an inclined walk it is advisable to have alternate lines of rough and smooth surface 48 * PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING running at right angles to the side of the walk. The roughened strips should be three inches wide and the smooth strips two inches wide. The use of cement has become so universal that it is really monotonous and, when possible, a material should be used that is more in tune with the natural surroundings. MACADAM WALKS Well kept macadam walks (Fig. 43) require more care than cement walks, but are a little more pleasing on a lawn. Use three inches of two and one-half inch stone, two inches of one and one- half inch stone, and one inch of breaker dust. Wet thoroughly and roll to a hard and even surface. Quarry spawls may be used for the two and one-half inch stone if securable near at hand; this would materially reduce the cost. Such walks cost about seventy cents per square yard under favorable conditions. A macadam walk is more satisfactory from a landscape point of view than cement. On properties where steep grades are encountered provision must be made for proper drainage, else the cost of maintenance will be prohibitive. Gutters and catch basins should be installed at intervals. Macadam walks should have a crown of one-half inch to the foot. RED GRAVEL WALKS A surface of one to two inches of red gravel on the same base as recommended for the macadam path makes a walk that is really the best for paths within the property borders. Gravel walks are sub- ject to surface washing and should be provided with gutters and catch basins. FLAGSTONE WALKS Flagstone walks, made with flags of North River blue stone or Indiana limestone, are the most serviceable of all walks. The flags should be two to three inches thick and should be laid on a sub-base of cinders not less than six inches deep. Wet the cinders and tamp them to a hard, even surface; over this place one inch of bar sand compacted as a cushion for the flags. After the slabs are leveled and firmed the joints should be pointed with a flat cement mortar joint. It is customary to lay flags cut in single blocks of various lengths to the full width of the walk. CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 49 Fig. 40. Cross section through cement walk. See page 47 In recent years the custom, copied from abroad, has been intro- duced of breaking up the flags and laying them with random joints (Figs. 44 and 45), giving a very picturesque effect. The interstices between the stones may be pointed with cement mortar one to one and one-half inches wide, or the joints may be made from two to three inches wide, without mortar, allowing the grass to come up Fig. 41. Cross section through cement walk, with cement curb. See page 47 in the spaces. The latter is much more attractive when it is possible to keep the turf green by copious waterings during droughts. Slate (Fig. 46). is sometimes used in a similar manner, and, com- ing as it does in various shades, some beautifully marked with rich brown splashes, makes a very pleasing appearance. When the slabs of slate are broken to be laid with random joints, with grass Fig. 43. Cross section through macadam walk. See page 48 50 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 51 in the interstices, they may be laid directly on the turf where they will eventually settle into place with all the appearance of having "just happened there." Fig. 44. Walk of broken flagstones laid with wide mortar joints. See page 49 BRICK WALKS The brick walk, properly laid, is pleasing to the eye and makes a good contrast with the turf. It does not lend itself well to curved lines and so should be used only where straight lines predominate. Bricks may be laid on either a cinder or a concrete base. A cinder base should consist of six inches of clean cinders with one Fig. 45. Walk of broken flagstones laid with wide mortar joint. See page 49 52 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A SLATE WALK Fig. 46. Slate makes a pleasing walk, coming as it does in various shades, some slates being beautifully marked with rich brown splashes. See page 49 CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 53 -L Fig. 47. If a brick walk is six feet wide or more a border such as shown here makes an attractive finish. See page 5 1 Fig. 48. A good treatment for brick walks less than six feet wide. See page 51 inch of bar sand as a cushion. The concrete base, which is more expensive, should consist of five inches of concrete with a one inch sand cushion. A concrete base preserves a true alignment and prevents upheavals. A brick walk should always have a curb of bricks laid on edge or end. Figs. 47, 48, 49, 50 and 51 show various designs for brick walks. The old diagonal fashion (Fig. 52) gives an atmosphere of Colonial times and will probably continue to be looked upon with favor by those who contemplate the construction of garden walks. This design in particular does not lend itself well to curved lines, so its use is limited to positions where straight lines predominate. Fig. 49. An attractive border of brick laid on edge the full width. See page 51 = =^ JJ LL Tl ket patt a borde T If bricks page 51 lg. 50. Bas n edge for :rn. Ha r.-See PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 1 1 1 1 1 * I - 1 I Fig. 51. The basket pattern of bricks on edge is not so pleasing, as it 1 ws too many moi " lines. See page 53 Fig. 52. The old-fashioned diagonal or herringbone pattern in bricks or tile. Good where straight lines predominate. See pages 5 1 and 53 When the bricks are laid in place the joints should be filled with bar sand or grouted and pointed with cement mortar. The mortar joints are expensive but more lasting than the sand and prevent weeds or grass from growing in the interstices. The texture of brick walks may be greatly improved by applying an occasional coating of boiled linseed oil. STEPPING STONE WALKS Stepping stones of local field stone (Figs. 53 and 54) are very naturalistic and picturesque. They may be laid in a single or double line; the double line for walks of importance, the single line for secondary paths. The stones should be set into the sod to a depth that will bring the flat surface level with the turf to allow of the lawn mower passing over. Space the stones twenty inches apart, center to center, using stones not less than twelve inches wide nor larger than eighteen inches wide. Vary the stones and avoid placing pieces of the same dimensions close together. TERRACE WALKS Terrace walks (Fig. 55) should be of rather generous dimensions, never less than five feet wide, while on very broad terraces the walk may be from seven to ten feet wide. It is good practice on broad terraces to place the walk nearer the house than the edge of the CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 55 Fig. 53. Stepping stone walk; the stones, gathered from local sources, are laid twenty inches apart, center to center. See page 54 terrace, that is, to have more turf area on the outside of the walk than between the walk and the building. Any of the materials mentioned for walk construction are suit- able for terrace walks. Something substantial looking, such as the flags, or bricks, are most appropriate, and should always be laid on a firm base. DUTCH TILE Dutch tile, sometimes called brick tile on account of the simi- larity in texture, should be more generally used for terrace walks. These should always be laid on a concrete base with mortar joints not less than one-half inch wide. All paving material should be laid true and even, and on walks Fig. 54. Field stones laid in turf are very pleasing where a walk of some width is desired. 56 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING TREATMENT OF THE TERRACE WALK Fig. 55. Terrace walks should be of generous dimensions, never less than five feet wide.- See page 54 CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES Fig. 56. A cross section through a waterbound macadam road with cement curb and gutter. See page 62 it is essential to give them a crown of one-half of an inch to the foot. Terrace walks should follow the general slope of the ground. DRIVEWAYS OF CEMENT On small properties the cement driveway is advisable and superior to any other. Oftentimes two cement tracks, with sod between, will take care of all traffic and yet apparently reduce the space taken up by the drive. WATERBOUND MACADAM Most of the driveways built today are those which are known as Telford roads (Fig. 56). These are usually constructed of twelve inches of stone over all. An eight-inch foundation is provided of hard quarry stone, laid on edge, with the longest dimension placed Fig. 57. Very often the large stone for the base course in the drive may be quarried on the property. See page 58 58 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING r AN IDEAL BITUMINOUS ROAD Fig. 58. A " Tarvia " macadam road. Free from dust and of good wearing qualities. See page 59 at a right angle to the side line of the drive. Very often this large stone can be found on the property (Fig. 57). After the stones are placed they should be gone over with napping hammers and made fairly even by breaking off the irregular edges; the pieces of stone so broken off should be used to fill in chinks. Over this should be placed three inches of one and one-half inch stone. Then a light covering of three-quarter inch stone may be placed as a binder and finished with clean breaker dust. The drive should be rolled be- fore and after placing the three-quarter inch stone, with a roller weighing not less than five tons. The three-quarter inch stone and the dust should never be mixed together; the dust will work through and the stone find the surface, making it rough and trouble- some. When rolling the finished surface it should be wetted con- stantly until a wave of water appears in front of the roller. BITUMINOUS ROADS The automobile is a new factor to be figured with in the con- struction of drives, as we find the waterbound roads are not very CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 59 c 5, CONSTRUCTION OF A CEMENT APPROACH Fig. 59. Showing the construction of a cement driveway approach satisfactory when subjected to the wear and tear of motor travel. Dust prevention must also be considered. To strengthen the wearing surface of the macadam and reduce the amount of dust, some kind of refined tar is best (Fig. 58). There are many such preparations on the market today and each carries with it proper specifications for applying. This should preferably be applied during hot weather, the penetration then being more thorough. CEMENT SURFACING In some localities it is impossible to secure a stone with any adhesive qualities. Where such a condition exists run a cement grout, consisting of one part Portland cement to three parts of sharp sand, over the surface. Over this place a thin layer of the breaker dust and go over with a splint broom, thus roughening up the sur- face to prevent skidding. This makes a good, practical driveway that will stand a lot of traffic without unraveling or costing anything for maintenance. The bituolithic binders may be used for the same purpose provided the stone is of cubical form. CEMENT APPROACHES At the point where the drive intersects the highway it is advis- able to pave the surface from the outside edge of the gutter to the property line (Fig. 59). It is necessary, usually, to increase the drive incline at this point to meet the gutter grade, and if macadam is used there is constant erosion. The paved surface prevents this and affords a hard surface for pedestrians. Such an approach should 60 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE [GARDENING CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 61 be constructed of cement or brick. If cement is used the surface should be roughened to prevent slipping. GUTTERS Where the walk or drive grade is not steep gutters will not be required and a few catch basins will take care of the surface water (Fig. 60) . If the surface over which the water gathers is great enough the road will be more pleasing and serviceable when denned by a curb or gutter. J I Fig. 61. Section of a concrete gutter and curb. See page 59 Fig. 62. A section showing the con- struction of a rubblestone gutter and curb CEMENT GUTTERS Where gutters (Fig. 61). are required the most satisfactory, although undoubtedly artificial in appearance, is the cement curb and gutter combined. This forms a good, substantial feature against which to finish the sod on one side and the road metal on the other. The foundation on heavy soils should be extended to a depth of eighteen inches. Use clean boilerhouse cinders or stone spawls as a foundation to within five inches of the finished grade; on this place the concrete, consisting of a mixture of one part Portland cement to four parts of sand and five parts of crushed stone. The finish coat should consist of one part Portland cement and two parts of sharp sand, troweled even and hard. RUBBLE GUTTERS The rubble curb and gutter (Fig. 62), built of quarried or field stone laid on edge and swept with chips, is very suitable for sub- urban and country districts. Such gutters should be not less than eighteen inches wide. An objectionable feature of the rubble gutter is that the grass and weeds grow up through the interstices. Where the stone is laid on a good foundation of clean cinders, twelve or eighteen inches 62 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING deep, the joints may be grouted with Portland cement mortar, using three parts sand and one part cement. This grouting will prevent the grass and weed growth. BRICK AND SOD GUTTERS Brick gutters should be laid on a four-inch concrete base and firmed with bar sand or a cement grouting. A concave brick gutter, eighteen inches wide, should slope three inches to the center. If a curb is desired the brick should be laid on end with the gutter finishing against it, and sloping two to three inches to the curb. The most pleasing gutters are those of turf. Such gutters should be concave, with a slope toward the center of from one to two inches to the foot. A gutter four feet wide should slope two inches to the center. A gutter six feet wide should slope one inch to the foot, giving a three inch depression as the minimum. The carrying ca- pacity is increased by the increased breadth. Where the area to be drained is large the gutter may have a maximum dip of six inches. After sodding the gutter a light coating of soil should be spread over the surface and sown with a good quality of grass seed. In sod gutters inlets are necessary to carry off the surface water. The number required will be governed by the area to be drained. In rolling ground with large areas it is usually necessary to place them every fifty feet. When building a driveway where sod gutters have been adopted the drive surface should be finished even with the soil so that the water will run off into the gutters. Turf gutters should be formed of tough sod cut from an old pasture. Before laying the sod, the concave surface should be covered with three or four inches of good soil and made true and even with a template. This can easily be pulled along as the soil is deposited and a uniform surface made for the reception of the sod. CARE OF SOD GUTTERS Every Spring the edge of the gutter should be tamped down along the edge of the drive, as the frost will heave it higher than the road metal. It should be rolled when the lawn is gone over in early Spring after the frost is out of the ground. CATCH BASINS Catch basins (Fig. 56) may be constructed of concrete or brick, whichever material is more convenient to the operation. The con- crete construction is simple and should consist of a mixture of one part Portland cement, three parts oi sand, and four parts of crushed CONSTRUCTION OF WALKS AND DRIVES 63 stone. Side walls should be six inches thick plumb, and an opening left for the outlet pipe one foot above the bottom of the basin. This will allow a space for the sand and debris to collect. The side walls for brick catch basins should be at least nine inches thick, built of straight, hard, building bricks that will ring clear when hit together. They should be laid in a Portland cement mortar consisting of one part cement to two parts of sharp sand. Fig. 63. A good type of catch basin grating Fig. 64. A catch basin designed to receive a large volume of water GRATINGS Catch basins should be provided with gratings (Fig. 63) with ample open spaces between the bars for a free intake of all water. Small openings become clogged with leaves and are useless. Where a large volume of water is to be taken care of it is well to build the basin back six or eight inches beyond the iron grating and place a coping stone over it, with an opening three inches wide, for the full length of the grating (Fig. 64). CONNECTING CATCH BASINS WITH DRAINAGE LINES Where road drainage is connected to the sewage disposal system it is necessary to have a running trap between the sewerage line and each connection with the catch basins. In this event care should be exercised to see that all pieces of pipe are free from flaws and the joints packed with oakum before cementing the sections together. PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 65 CHAPTER V LAWNS GRADING, CONSTRUCTION AND UPKEEP No single feature connected with the landscape development of a property is so important as the lawn. We speak here of a lawn principally in the sense of an open grass plot, not in the composite sense of turf and plantings that we often think of when the term "lawn" is used. Possibly the old English term "greensward" would be a better word to use to describe a lawn in its single meaning, and we may revert to its use occasionally to keep the thought fixed. The lawn is the base that we must work on to make a pleasing landscape picture. It is the central feature and requires strict attention to all details. It is the element in landscape gardening that continually lends or takes. It is framed by pleasing shrubbery borders and, in turn, frames lovely vistas. Made perfectly level, and hedged in tightly with border plantings, the whole property looks cramped and contracted. Given gentle slopes and slight de- pressions, and allowed to run off here and there, a feeling of expanse is created. A house set lower than the street level may, by care in the lawn grading, be made to appear much higher than it is. In these and in many other ways does the lawn enter largely into the best landscape development. PRELIMINARY PREPARATIONS Good greenswards are not often met with, and the majority of failures may be traced to lack of forethought in the making, that is, lack of forethought in the physical construction. Too often soil and seed alone enter into the question and no thought of drainage or future upkeep. Such lawns are never a success and can never be improved unless torn up and a fresh start made. Let us look well, then, to a right beginning, so that our finished lawn will be a unison of the proper relation to house, best drainage and construction, proper seeding, and ease of upkeep. In order to do this it is essential that we familiarize ourselves thoroughly with all existing physical conditions before the work is started. 66 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A LAWN ASCENDING FROM A HIGHWAY Fig. 65. Cross section showing proper grading of portion around a residence located on ground ascending from the highway. See page 67 Before the excavation of the cellar is made all the top soil, which extends to a depth of from four to twelve inches, should be removed and stacked in convenient piles for future use. It is well, too, to remove the surface soil for a distance of fifteen to twenty-five feet beyond the lines of all the buildings, as the construction work is apt to destroy all the soil close by. This important feature is often overlooked, for, as a general rule, the landscape gardener is not called in for advice until the residence and other buildings have been completed. Very frequently, too, houses are not properly situated as regards the elevation of the floor level above the surrounding grades of the ground. It has been the author's experience that a large percentage of the residences have been set entirely too low. It is very much better to err in the opposite direction, as height may be overcome by a proper planting at the base of the house in case there is not a sufficient amount of soil available to make the necessary fill. A LAWN DESCENDING FROM A HIGHWAY Fig. 66. Cross section showing proper grading around a residence located on ground descending from the highway. See page 67 LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 67 p.. f-j J^"T1J ' Fig. 67. A section through foundation wall -z. G5i t , showing the revised grade at the point where the natural grade slopes toward the house. The line CC is the line of the natural grade; the line BB is the revised surface grade; the line AA is the revised sub-grade. An agricultural tile is provided at the base of the well to prevent seepage running into the cellar. Fig. 68. A section showing the construction of a dry well for surface water. See page 68 LAWNS ASCENDING FROM HIGHWAYS If the house is located on ground ascending from the highway, with still higher ground in the rear of the house site, it is necessary to provide a plateau for the building (Fig. 65). This should be approached with a bold hand and the cutting out behind the build- ing made broad and generous to avoid a sense of being shut in. The revised surface should be sloped away from the building in all direc- tions. The minimum fall on the axis of the building should be one-eighth of an inch to the foot, while from the center toward the ends of the building at least one-quarter of an inch to the foot should be provided for. LAWNS DESCENDING FROM HIGHWAYS Somewhat the same conditions prevail on ground descending from the highway (Fig. 66). In both instances the precaution of waterproofing the house foundations, either with a tar paint or by building them of waterproofed concrete, should not be over- looked. SUB- GRADE The lawn surface around the house should have a minimum slope of one-half an inch to the foot and care should be taken to see that the sub-grade has a similar inclination (Fig. 67). No mat- ter how great the surface slope away from the house is, if the old 68 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING natural grade pitches toward the foundation walls the water perco- lates through the new fill and runs down the foundation walls to the cellar. Such a condition may also be overcome by filling in around the house with a stiff clay, if available, this to be thoroughly tamped or, still better, puddled. This sub-grade should have a slope of at least two inches to the foot for a distance of four feet from the foundation walls. Beyond that it may be reduced to one-half inch to the foot. UNDERDRAINAGE Occasionally the ground falls away enough to have a point lower than the cellar floor. In such instances it is a wise precaution against a damp cellar to introduce a three or four inch agricultural tile around the base, laid with open joints and half collars placed over each joint to prevent the soil from falling in and clogging the orifice. Where drive and walk drains exist this line of pipe may be connected with that system. LAWN GRADING Generally speaking, the surface beyond the buildings may be left as found so far as the contour of the ground is concerned; the exception being small properties where it is possible to modify all lines of grade to suit the house without entailing too great an expense. LARGER AREAS On larger properties it is only necessary to soften steep depres- sions or humps by lengthening the slopes, provided, of course, that the surface water may be drained off. Where depressions are large and the work entailed to carry the surface water off over the surface is too extensive, a catch basin should be provided. From this the drain may be projected to a lower point of grade or to a small well. Such a well should be about three feet in diameter and four feet deep (Fig. 68), this to be filled with stone to within twelve inches of the top, over which place the top soil. Draining to such a well is preferable to running it out on the surface. Drainage to a well spreads by seepage over a large area. In case a sewer line has been installed in the streets it is much better to connect with it, but extreme care should be taken to see that the line of pipe is properly trapped to prevent sewer gas from backing up in the pipe lines. LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP CORRECT GRADING FOR HOUSE BELOW PAVEMENT GRADE Fig. 70. A section showing revised grade for lawn when the house is located lower than the pavement HOUSE BELOW PAVEMENT GRADE Quite frequently topographical conditions are encountered that make it necessary to set the house below the grade of the pave- ment. (Fig. 70.) In such cases the site selected should be just as far back from the property line as practicable, the slope from the CORRECT GRADING WHEN HOUSE IS ON STREET LEVEL Fig. 71. A section showing concave lawn surface where the pavement and house grades are on the same level. The convex surface as shown by the dotted line is not so good, as it apparently shortens the distance. See page 70 house to a point one-fifth to one-third the total distance from the house to the property line to be made rather sharp, with the longer slope from the property line to the established low point. This treatment will seemingly lift the house up and is more pleasing than a grade with the longer slope falling from the house. TREATMENT OF TERRACES Fig. 72. When the distance CC is less than BB it is better to eliminate the slope BC and grade along the lines of AA. See page 70 70 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Should the point of grade at the house and at the pavement be on the same level (Fig. 71), and provided the house is located well back from the property line, the appearance will be greatly enhanced by making a depression between the house and the street. To do this the elevation of the ground at one side must be below the lowest point of depression. It is very apparent that a lawn graded to such a profile would give a sense of distance while, on the other hand, a convex line would tend to shorten the distance. TERRACES When to introduce terraces is a problem that requires careful consideration. On a ground slightly undulating and where the surface slopes are rather gentle, the effect is more pleasing if the lawn rolls right up to the walls of the house. On more rugged ground, where there is a great variation in levels between the various corners of the house, a level plateau surrounding the house is better. The width of the terrace will depend somewhat on the size of the building and the lot; ordinarily it should not be less than fourteen feet; if there is to be a paved terrace or a porch, the turf terrace, being of different texture, should be at least one-third greater in width. It is very unsatisfactory to have a terrace of greater breadth than the remaining area between the bottom of the slope and the line of the property. When a condition exists wherein the space is not great enough to treat it as above recommended it is more advisable to have the slope extend from the plateau at the house to the property line by a gentle inclination (Fig. 72). The surface should slope at least one-half inch to the foot, and the slope from the terrace to the sur- rounding lawn grade should not be steeper than one foot to two feet, while one to three is much preferable as the grass is more easily cut on such a slope than on one with a sharper inclination (Fig. 73). The slope should always be uniform and the line next to the house should be parallel to the building, while the bottom line of the ter- race may vary according to the slope of the abutting lawn. When close to the house, where straight lines predominate, it is best to have two lines of the terrace well defined. A terrace along a property line (Fig. 74) may be graded to a convex surface at the top, and at the bottom it may be given a con- cave surface, thus gracefully merging the steeper grades into the more gentle ones at top and bottom. LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 71 TREATMENT OF TERRACES Fig. 74. A section showing convex and concave lines at the top and bottom of the slope to meet the existing grades gracefully. See page 70 TREATMENT OF TERRACES Fig. 75.-A sec- tion showing lines of a slope and the space between the bottom of the slope and the hedge, where a hedge is to be provided at the toe of the slope. Where hedges are to be planted along property lines, at the top of the terrace, or at the bottom, which is the better place for them, the lines should be decided (Fig. 75) . When a hedge is to be planted at the bottom of a slope, the toe of the slope should be at least three feet back from the line. This will provide a level space to stand on and trim the hedge with much more comfort than standing on a slope. The plants, too, will thrive better. Slopes should always be sodded where a good, clean turf is procurable. LAWN MAKING While the building is in course of construction the soil will become very much compacted by the teams and mechanics, a condition which is rather bad for the sustaining of grass. All the areas which have been trodden down hard should be loosened up before the surface soil is replaced. Better turf can usually be grown on soil that is broken up to some depth. When the grading is being done it is well to take account of the nature of the soil and ascertain what treatment may be necessary for the production of a satisfactory stand of grass. If the soil is of a sandy or gravelly nature, or if it is lacking in humus, barnyard manure should be spread and thoroughly assimilated with the top soil. Should the soil be of a stiff, clayey nature, equal parts of sand and manure should be mixed through the top soil. This will make the soil more porous and the rain and air will reach the roots of the grass. Another point to look to, at this time, is the digging and prepa- ration of holes for any trees or specimen shrubs that it is planned to locate on the lawn. Such work can be done to much better advan- tage now than if left until after the rolling and seeding. 72 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Sometimes it is necessary to raise the grade on ground where large trees are established. A fill of a foot or more of soil over the roots of most trees will kill them very quickly. Such trees may be preserved by building a dry retaining wall with a diameter at least two feet greater than the trunk. If the lawn is of sufficient size and the trees form a clump, a depression may be left around them. Now that the rough work is out of the way, drainage attended to, grades established and terraces built, the question of the real making of the new lawn confronts us. The changed conditions make it necessary to provide new soil close to the house and on properties of small dimensions it may be necessary to resurface the entire area. Wherever fill is needed just as good soil as can be procured should be used and at least four inches of good top soil provided for the surface. ''If the old turf needs remaking it should be dug or plowed to the depth of a spade., the soil being turned well over, stones and weed roots removed and large clods broken up. Manuring or feitilizing is an important question. Experts claim that one ton of grass removes from the soil thirty-four pounds of nitrogen, thirty-six pounds of potash and seventeen pounds of phosphoric acid. It is largely these substances, therefore, that must be provided. Stable manure, if obtainable, is very satis- factory. Apply at the rate of one load per one hundred square yards and dig or fork it into the soil. Care should be exercised to see that the manure is not buried too deeply, else it will not be with- in reach of the new young grass four inches is a good average depth. A good commercial fertilizer, containing four per cent, nitrogen, eight per cent, phosphoric acid and ten per cent, potash, will be found to give very satisfactory results. This should be applied at the rate of ten pounds per one hundred square yards and raked in. Fertilizers that are highly soluble should not be used on sandy soils, as they will quickly dissolve after rainfalls, be washed beyond the reach of the roots and so wasted. This same remark covers all commercial fertilizers applied in a wet season or a time of drought. In one case they are washed away, and in the other they lie about the surface and waste. After manuring, the ground should be prepared to receive the seed. The soil should be carefully gone over with an iron toothed rake, all large stones removed, clods broken up and weed roots taken out, then rolled and raked until the surface becomes firm and fine; it should be so firm that walking over it leaves no footprints. LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 73 74 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING SODDING The spaces along the walks and drives should be sodded to maintain the edge. It is well, too, to sod the space directly against the house, to prevent any soiling of the wall surfaces by splashing. SEEDING Time of sowing and the best seed are subjects of equal impor- tance. Unless we look well to these two essentials we may have our trouble in the manuring and preparation of the ground set to naught. Spring and Fall are the best seasons for sowing, prefer- ably the months of April and September. Lawns seeded late in the Fall should be given a mulch as a Winter protection. GRASS SEEDS The varieties of grasses suitable for the making of a good lawn are limited. The general desire is for a close turf of pleasing color. Soil and climatic conditions will enter largely into the right selec- tion. (The recommendations which follow apply to the Atlantic coast region north of Washington, D. C., and the Allegheny region as far south as northern Georgia.) Kentucky Blue Grass is the best all-around lawn grass and will thrive in any good lawn, providing it receives a generous but not excessive amount of moisture. In soils of very light character Red Top, Rhode Island Bent, Creeping Bent or White Clover are good. On account of the varied conditions met with, a mixture including the above named kinds in varying proportion, is usually most satis- factory. Seed of the highest grade from a reliable house should be pur- chased and sown at the rate of five bushels (100 Ibs.) to the acre; or, one quart to 300 sq. ft. This will allow for a very generous seeding, which is much to be preferred to seed sparsely scattered. Grass seeds will vary in weight as to the number of pounds to the bushel. In recleaned seeds of a high grade, Blue Grass should run from twelve to fifteen pounds to the bushel; Red Top extra re- cltaned, thirty pounds to the bushel; Creeping Bent, twenty pounds; Rhode Island Bent, fourteen pounds; White Clover, sixty pounds. A good grass seed mixture should average twenty pounds to the bushel. A calm day should be chosen for the seeding, otherwise it is LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 76 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING hard to get an equal distribution. The seeding should be done in two directions, dividing the seed into two lots, one lot being sown at a right angle to the other. After sowing, the seed should be covered to a depth of about one-quarter of an inch: this may be done by raking the surface lightly. The ground should then be rolled with a light roller. When the young grass is about one and one-half inches high it should be rolled again and the first cutting made when about two inches high. The machine should be set quite high for the first cutting. All bare and thin places should be promptly reseeded. The lawn having been thoroughly established it is very essential that careful and systematic attention be given to the upkeep; other- wise it will deteriorate very quickly. Weeds are always a menace and, linked with Fall Grass, should be continually fought against. Newly made lawns often contain many weeds of an annual nature which disappear after a few cut- tings. The perennial weeds are persistent and can only be effective- ly removed by hand. The dandelion and plantain are exceedingly troublesome and must be removed, root and top. This may be done with a sharp chisel or a three-pronged fork. Weeding forks for this purpose are to be had at all seed stores. Boys can usually be had to do this work at the rate of a few cents per hundred. During moist weather, when the grass is making vigorous growth, it should be cut about once in a week and an occasional rolling will help greatly to keep the surface firm. Grass does poorly on a loose surface. In hot, dry weather the blades in the machine should be raised so that the grass will be left of sufficient length to afford some protection to the roots. Too close cutting during Midsummer weakens the turf and makes it more susceptible to the inroads of Fall grass. Every Spring a fertilizer should be applied that will supply per acre one hundred pounds of potash and fifty pounds of available phosphoric acid. Apply at the same time a top dressing of three hundred pounds of nitrate of soda. The nitrate should be applied again at the end of June, using one hundred pounds to the acre. Such fertilizers are to be preferred to stable manures, as they are less offensive, require less labor to apply, and are free of weed seeds. It is possible sometimes to renovate a wornout lawn without LAWNS: GRADING AND UPKEEP 77 entirely remaking, by top dressing with a compost consisting of equal parts of soil and manure, to which about ten per cent, of tank- age has been added. Such a top dressing is recommended also for lawns made on shallow soils. In the Southern States it is quite impossible to establish a per- manent greensward that will look well at all seasons. The only grass that will succeed with any degree of satisfaction is the Ber- muda Grass (Capriola dactylon). This grass dies to the ground in the Winter, but is good during the Spring, Summer and early Au- tumn. Lawns of this grass are made by cutting up the roots of old plants and setting the small tufts of root about twelve inches apart, mulching with well rotted manure. For Winter effect on terraces or lawn close to the house English perennial Rye may be sown. STUDY OF A HOUSE LOCATION ON A SMALL LOT Fig. 1 5. " The ideal location is one where the ground slopes away from the house on four sides." See page 20 78 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 79 CHAPTER VI ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS Although the drives, walks and topography contribute much toward the general effect of the home grounds, it is upon the embel- lishment of the whole, through the proper selection and arrange- ment of the ornamental plantings, that we depend for the picturesque beauty and grace of the lawn. THE BACKGROUND FOR THE HOUSE A first consideration is a good background for the house and, where one does not already exist, plantations of trees should be located that will give this effect as quickly as possible. In such plantings it is advisable to set more trees than will be needed eventually, the principle being that trees planted close together encourage a greater top growth and thus attain height more quickly than trees given ample space for development; in the latter instance much of the strength going toward lateral growth. The Tulip Poplar (Liriodendron tulipifera) is a rapid growing tree with all the needed qualities for a background planting. Under favorable conditions the Tulip Poplar will reach a height of one hundred or more feet. The foliage, rich and glossy, the attractively lobed leaves, the large, tulip-like green and yellow flowers, and a straight, towering main stem are all attributes of this grand tree. If this tree is used it should be set well back from the house line, as the branches spread to such an extent and rise to such a height that they will form a most pleasing canopy over any smaller and slower growing trees which may be planted between it and the residence. Other good trees for background planting are Red Oak (Quercus rubra), American Elm ( Ulmiis americana) and Sugar Maple (Acer saccharum). These trees are all so well known that a brief descrip- tion will suffice. The Oak is, indeed, a majestic tree and well suited to any landscape subject. Downing sums up its chief characteris- tics in these few sentences: "There is a breadth about the lights 80 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING and shadows reflected and embosomed in its foliage, a singular free- dom and boldness in its outline and a pleasing richness and in- tricacy in its huge ramifications of branch and limb that render it highly adapted to landscape purposes." The Elm, while lacking something of the stateliness of the Tulip Poplar or the majesty of the Oak, outrivals them both in grace and elegance. The com- paratively slender branches form into long, graceful curves until, in old trees, the light and airy foliage often sweeps the ground. The Elm should only be used when small groups are required. These trees, as a rule, are so similar in form as to be monotonous when planted together in large numbers. The Maple is valued for the rapidity of its growth, although it, too, has fine form and foliage. The Autumn coloring of the Sugar Maple, a beautiful, bright yellow, red and orange, is not equaled in any other tree. FRAMING THE HOUSE In addition to a suitable background it is essential that the resi- dence be properly framed by plantations at both ends (Fig. 77). The size and character of this framework will depend largely on the architectural style and the dimensions of the house. For small houses, often one specimen tree, placed at each end, is quite suf- ficient. These lines from Milton will convey the picture of such a frame much better than a lengthy paragraph: " Hard by, a cottage chimney smokes From between two aged Oaks." Houses built on a larger scale may require groupings. It is not always necessary nor advisable to plant the trees directly at the ends of the building. Usually a position forward of the front line gives a better effect. TREES FOR FRAMING THE HOUSE Where horizontal lines prevail in the general architectural scheme trees of a pyramidal type should be used. The Ginkgo (Salisburia adiantifolia), European Larch (Larix europaea) and Lombardy Poplar (Populus fastigiata) are good examples of such trees. The Ginkgo (Fig. 78) occasionally assumes a broad, spread- ing top, but this type is so infrequently met with that it may be, for all purposes, classed and used as a pyramidal tree. For plant- ing near the house it is in a class alone and apart. Briefly, these ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS Fig. 78. The Ginkgo, or Maidenhair Tree (Salisburia adiantifolia) ; a good type of pyramidal tree. "For planting near a house it is in a class alone and apart." See page 80 82 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 79. The European Larch (Larix europaea) ; a splendid tree to use near houses where horizontal lines predominate. See page 84 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 83 Fig. 80. The Cedrela (Cedrela sinensis). A good type of tree with spreading character; quick growing and free from insect attacks. See page 84 g4 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING are its chief attributes: Rapid growth, neat tapering head, un- usual grayish bark, immunity from insects, beautiful leaves re- sembling greatly in form the leaves of the Maidenhair fern, and long life. The form and outline harmonize exceedingly well with buildings. The European Larch (Fig. 79) is a cone-bearing tree and belongs to the Pine family. It is not an evergreen, however, as it sheds its leaves in the Fall as do the deciduous trees. Perhaps its greatest charm is the picturesque appearance of even young trees. It has such an expression of boldness and freedom that, planted near the house, this effect must be relieved somewhat by grouping it with smaller harmonious trees, such as the White or Pink Dogwood (Fig. 3).. The Lombardy Poplar in large quantities (Fig. 2) should be introduced only on large estates and to frame great houses. When planted near moderately sized dwellings the great height, often attained very quickly, is over- whelming. When perpendicular lines predominate in the building the trees planted close to it should be of a spreading character unless for some particular reason the perpendicular lines are to be accentuated. We have a great variety of such trees to choose from. If the house is large the Red Oak, White Oak, Elm, Cedrela, Sugar Maple and Ash are equally good. The Cedrela (Fig. 80) is a Chinese tree re- sembling the Ailanthus, but without its objectionable features. It is rapid growing and generally desirable. Near medium or small houses the Scarlet Maple, Sweet Gum, European Linden, Yellow Wood and Oregon Maple all have the needed characteristics. The Oregon Maple is uncommon and should be more frequently planted. It somewhat resembles the Sycamore Maple, but is a more robust grower; it has a large, handsome, dark green leaf. BASE PLANTINGS Houses which set close to the ground should have no planting at the base. The turf should extend up to the lines of the porches or paved terrace, with group plantings at the corners. Where the floor line is just enough above grade to admit of base plantings use plants dwarf in character (Fig. 81), with larger grow- ing varieties at the corners and in the blank wall spaces between windows. An error to avoid is the planting of anything in front of window openings that will attain a height great enough to inter- fere with the light. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 85 The outlines of base plantings should always be sinuous, ex- tending out at the corners and receding to the face of the building. Where the width of the bed permits, the use of tall and low growing plants (Fig. 82) adds greatly to the effect from the approach. WHAT TO AVOID IN BASE PLANTINGS A popular practice today is the use of a miscellaneous assortment of evergreens in beds close to the house (Fig. 83). When the plants are small the effect is undoubtedly attractive and the contrast of the blue, green and golden foliage pleasing. Builders of suburban houses which it is desired to sell quickly have taken advantage of this appeal and, without thought of the future, have used these evergreen base plantings to the exclusion almost, in some commu- nities, of the more desirable shrubbery groupings. This practice should not be followed in planting the home grounds. Many of the evergreens used are not dwarf types and soon outgrow their positions. The effect becomes monotonous in the extreme and lacks the variety of foliage, flower and fruit attainable by the use of a judicious selection of shrubs and broad-leaved evergreens. PLANTS FOR BASE PLANTINGS SHRUBS A good selection of shrubs of a rather dwarf character can be made up from the following list: Spiraea Thunbergii, Spiraea An- thony Waterer, Deutzia gracilis, Caryopteris, Berberis Thunbergii, Azalea mollis, Desmodium penduliflorum, Deutzia Lemoinei, Daphne Mezereum, Forsythia suspensa, Spiraea arguta, Amygdalus nana, Ceanothus americana, Coriaria japonica, Hypericum aureum, Andromeda speciosa (Fig. 84). If the planting admits the use of larger growing plants these varieties are splendid for use close to the house: Spiraea Van Houttei, Rhodotypos kerrioides, Philadel- phus Lemoinei, Neviusia alabamensis, Ligustrum Regelianum, Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora, Hydrangea arborescens grandi- flora alba, Callicarpa purpurea, Weigela Eva Rathke. PLANTS FOR BASE PLANTINGS BROAD-LEAVED EVERGREENS The broad-leaved evergreens are splendid for base plantings (Fig. 77), and will usually grow easily on any but a due southern exposure. The attractiveness of the foliage in Winter recommends them for liberal use in plantings near the house. Dwarf and tall growing kinds may be had in a diversity of form and foliage. 86 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 87 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 89 is 90 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 85.-Plan showing a lawn planting around a small house. The trees marked No. 1 are placed for the purpose of a back- ground, while those designated No. 2 are arranged for the framing of the residence. The belt plantation, shown in an irregu- lar fashion, is more interesting and gives a greater va- riety to the scene than is possible with a straight bor- der. Deciduous and evergreen trees are shown at the broad portions of the bed to give the necessary height and a more pleas- ing skyline. See page 91 UNITY IS NOT IMPOSSIBLE ON SMALL PLANTINGS ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 91 Among the best are the Azaleas, the hybrid Rhododendrons, the Andromedas, Japanese Holly, Aucuba viridis, Kalmia latifolia, Laurocerasus, Abelia grandiflora, the Mahonias, Leucothoes and Phillyrea. UNITY IN LAWN PLANTINGS Between the house and the boundary lines lies that portion of the lawn which is most difficult to handle and the part that we usually find the least tastefully designed. On this part of the premises we have to consider plantings along drives, plantings along walks and paths, lawn specimens and lawn groups. These must be considered individually and yet so treated that with the background, plantings around the house, and boundary plantations, all will combine to produce a harmonious whole. This we speak of as unity. Unity is not impossible on small properties. It may be had by keeping the greensward open and confining the plantings to the borders and along the paths (Fig. 85). Attempt only the simple, if you will, just grass and trees, and the effect is much more pleasing than a large tract planted with no definite aim. PLANTING FOR DETAIL It is along the drives and paths that we may plant for the beautiful, as it is here that the observer is brought into closer touch with the individual plant and its every detail. Specimen plants for such plantations should have, therefore, some unusual and delicate characteristics, which would most likely be lost if placed at a greater distance from the eye. Among those which are most highly recommended are the cut-leaved White Birch, the various forms of the Japanese Maple, the fern-leaved Beech, and the Eng- ligh Cork Maple. The Birch and the Maple are particularly handsome. Specimens noted in previous paragraph, planted along the line of a drive, should be set back about fifteen or twenty feet so as to give them a little foreground (Fig. 86). The Japanese Maples are quite dwarf and may be planted closet . Allow each tree ample space for perfect development and allow for a stretch of green- sward between specimens. AVOID STRAIGHT LINES The arrangement should be an avoidance of straight lines. The 92 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PLANTING FOR DETAIL Fig. 86. Deciduous and evergreen trees, together with shrubbery, at the'intersection of drive and pathway. The individual plants should be so planted that each will grow into a perfect specimen of its kind. See page 91 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 93 larger growing trees should be near the house and the smaller kinds between the house and the entrance. Large growing trees on a small lawn have a tendency to dwarf the area. One or two large trees near the house will be quite sufficient in most cases. AVOID ROWS OF TREES ALONG CURVED DRIVEWAYS Lines of trees along curved driveways or paths should be dis- couraged. Groupings are much more artistic (Figs. 87 and 88). (See planting key, page 95.) LINES OF TREES FOR STRAIGHT DRIVEWAYS Along straight driveways lines of trees on either side are agreeable and are especially pleasing where they lead directly to the portals of the house, as is frequently seen on some of our old South- ern estates The best trees for such purpose are the Sugar Maple, American Elm, Red Oak, and European Linden. The trees should be planted alternately rather than directly opposite, and should be at least thirty-five feet apart, set back from five to ten feet from the edge of the drive; of the evergreens the White and Austrian Pines and the Norway Spruce are the most suitable. SPECIMEN LAWN TREES Specimen trees planted on the lawn should be low branched unless it is desirable to maintain a view under the overhanging limbs. Surface rooting trees, such as the soft or Silver Maple, should not be used, as it is difficult to maintain a lawn under them. The Oaks (Fig. 89) are deep rooted and almost unsurpassed as lawn specimens. The Sugar Maple, the large growing Magnolias, Kentucky Coffee, American Ash (Fig. 90) and English Ash, Sweet Gum and the Elms, are among the best deciduous trees. Specimen evergreens are greatly desirable and add to the Whiter aspect. Such splendid trees as Nordmann's Fir, Cedar of Lebanon and Deodora Cedar (Fig. 91), Hemlock Spruce, Silver Fir, Blue Spruce (Fig. 92) and White Pine are among the most important. If one has a love of trees, it is in the individual lawn specimens that a great variety may be had and, if care be used in the placing, the unity will still be preserved. As advised for specimen planting along drives, avoid straight lines. Keep the larger trees toward the back and do not crowd along the property line; place the smaller varieties toward the point of view. 94 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 87. Groupings of trees and shrubs along curved driveways are artistic and pleasing. Lines of trees should be avoided. See page 93 LAWN GROUPINGS The lawn plantations or groups, those which are planted in the middle distance, should be pleasing in outline and so placed as to accentuate the view to some pleasing object beyond. The plants should be so arranged in the group that the outline is flowing and not stiff and regular. For the general arrangement and varieties best suited to such groupings we may take some suggestions from Nature, as there are certain trees and shrubs which we frequently find standing apart from woodlands. The Balsam Fir and the White Birch (Fig. 93) make a pleasing combination planted together, also either the Austrian or White Pine and the Beech. The Oriental Spruce, Nordmann's Fir and Koster's Blue Spruce (Fig. 92) may be used together in groups with very gratifying results. The Japanese conifers, such as the Retinis- poras, should always be grouped together or with the Arborvitaes. They do not harmonize well with the coarser leaved conifers. dj . II : | iJjN 1 gt-s Ib* 33^3-fiijij || . 2 ? rt |^ -" c9 ^-i. Hg | S<^(3 7 ^ a^slll|JI(54^K(3Sjl|||||| 96 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ONE OF THE BEST TREES FOR THE LAWN Fig. 89. Pin Oak (Quercus palustris). Among other requirements, specimen lawn trees should be low branched. The Pin Oak fulfills every requirement. See page 93 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 97 THE AMERICAN ASH MAKES A DESIRABLE SPECIMEN Fig. 90. American Ash (Fraxinus americana). A quick growing type of desirable lawn tree. See page 93 98 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING A SUITABLE SPECIMEN TREE FOR SMALL LAWNS Fig. 91. Deodar Cedar (Cedrus Deodara). Recommended as a specimen lawn tree. Of beautiful form and foliage; closely related to the Cedar of Lebanon. See page 93 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 99 ALWAYS REMARKABLE AND ALWAYS DESIRABLE Fig. 92. Koster's Blue Spruce (Picea pungens Kosteriana). Well known as a desirable evergreen; tips of foliage of a beautiful blue sheen. See pages 93 and 94 Groups on small areas should not be overcrowded. If imme- diate effect is desired first arrange for the permanent trees and then others may be added and removed as the desired trees develop. . In- dividuals in group plantings should have ample space to show their true characteristics, otherwise they assume a stiff, unnatural habit, and mar the scene they are intended to embellish. It is a question often as to just how much space some trees and shrubs require, so great is the diversity in habit of growth. For the tall growing 100 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE BARK OF THE WHITE BIRCH OFFERS A PLEASING CONTRAST Fig. 93. The cut-leaved, pendulous White Birch (Betula alba laciniata pendula) is a good tree for lawn groupings. With its white bark and graceful habit it lends itself to many pleasing combinations. See page 94 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 101 shrubs, such as the Weigela, Mock Orange, Snowball and Lilac, six feet apart is a good average; three feet will suffice for medium-sized plants; two feet for the dwarf growing kinds. If these distances are followed it is advisable to set the plants in the turf and leave a space around each plant spaded up; when the grass dies out be- tween the plants, the area may be made into a dug bed. This system is much better than having a dug bed from the first with large, bare spaces between plants. Should conditions favor the dug bed, a ground cover, such as Pachysandra, creeping Phlox, Candy- tuft, Rock Cress or Hypericum may be used to advantage. PLANTING IN LAWN DEPRESSIONS Where depressions occur in the lawn they may be accentuated by plantings on the slopes and high ground, leaving the depression open. PLANTING IN VALLEYS The view down a valley from the house site is always more restful if framed by plantings on the slopes. In arranging the plants place the dwarfer kinds to the base and graduate the height to the top where the trees should predominate. BOUNDARY PLANTINGS Belt plantations (Fig. 94) are always appropriate where it is necessary to create the scene w r ithin the grounds or where privacy is desired. When the surroundings are pleasingly planted or the natural conditions are such that the premises under consideration should be treated as a part of a general scheme, then the belt plant- ing must not be continuous but broken to such an extent that it will blend harmoniously with what is already established. Boundary or belt plantations (Fig. 95 on key page 104) should always be more or less sinuous, according to the area of the space we have to work with. Even on the smallest properties the irregular compound curved line is more pleasing than a straight one. The border should always be of greater depth at the corners, for it is here that we should have the greatest height. On small properties the corner plantings become a part of the framework for the resi- dence. Where the area of the grounds is large the border may be extended well into the lawn at points and the bays thus formed will give an idea of greater distance looking from the house. 102 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING VARIETY IN BORDER PLANTINGS Border plantations are too frequently very regular and flat when shrubs alone are used (Fig. 96). The effect is especially displeas- ing when they stand out alone against the open with no back- ground. It is well, therefore, to consider the skyline and introduce trees of various kinds at intervals. If the border is small choose the best of the dwarf sorts, and have the necessary height and variety of contour. In larger borders trees of greater dimensions should be used. A good choice may be made from among the following: Red Maple, Ash, Sugar Maple, Scarlet Oak and Sweet Gum. In addition to height and contour, all of these trees are noted for their splendid Autumn coloring. Large growing trees introduced into the border make it necessary to select shade enduring shrubs to plant under and near them. For such a purpose use Aralia pentaphylla, Weigelas, Viburnum cassi- noides, V. nudum, V. cotinifolium and V. acerifolium, Cornus alter- nifolia and C. paniculata, Hamamelis virginica, Ceanothus ameri- cana and broad-leaved evergreens (Fig. 97). EDGING THE BORDER PLANTINGS Edge the border planting with perennials, annuals ahd bulbs (Fig. 98), so that the season of bloom may be continuous from early Spring until late Fall. Keep away from bedding Tulips and other bulbs of a like nature in the border. Use Daffodils, Darwin Tulips and similar kinds that may be planted in clumps for naturalistic effect. EVERGREENS IN BORDER PLANTINGS If evergreens are used for a border planting set them in masses rather than as scattered specimens. Plant them in positions where it is desirable to have a Winter screen or where they will help plant- ings in front of them. If used as a background select only kinds that have green foliage. Plants, such 3s Judas, Golden Bell and Pyrus, together with shrubs having showy fruit, are very handsome against a background of evergreens (Fig. 99). The pyramidal type of evergreen, such as Arborvitae, Cypress and Juniper, are highly recommended for border planting, as they give an accentu- ated note to the scene and add to the picturesqueness more than any other type of plant. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 103 I 5 S * .363 M _l *Ki up I |1>w.fc3.=:uM 5 tt e OT 53otli'CvWMSo; l?-rs < sFlI|9 iS ? H z J|ll ^Jftllll-a 1 O ^ w^E g i ] 1 1 JJIPlllillilili I o>2!? ^ 2 2 2 J? J? ^ N CQ ^ lllllllllil||I|ll 0,0 M ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 105 BORDER PLANTING ALONG A PROPERTY LINE Fig. 96. Instance of an attractive boundary planting along a property line, affording privacy and adding picturesqueness to the scene. See page 102 106 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING SPECIMEN TREES IN FRONT OF BORDER PLANTINGS Specimens planted in front of border plantings should always be at the salient points and not in the bays formed by the border outlines. The positions of specimen conifers should not be de- cided without reference to the border plants behind them. Ever- greens with golden foliage should not be placed in front of shrubs with yellow leaves or flowers. Evergreens with blue foliage should not be placed in front of plants with silvery leaves. Strive to estab- lish a contrast, but be careful to preserve good balance and harmony. If an existing plantation, either on the premises or beyond, con- sists of large trees, the specimens planted in the foreground should have foliage that will blend. Use trees of the same variety and depend for contrast on smaller trees and shrubs planted still more to the front. AVOID ODD SHAPED BEDS IN LAWN CENTER The center of the lawn surface should not be broken up with circular or geometrically shaped beds. They destroy the quietude and harmony of the scene. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING ON THE FARM While the farm layout should be thoroughly practical, the farmer who thinks that he must carry this so far that he can find no time or place for anything that is pleasing and beautiful around his residence, lining his highway, or even the field itself, is very wide of the mark. The average farm house of the past few decades and its collection of outbuildings have not been such as to inspire either respect, friendly sentiment or pleasant associations. The result has been that during the last fifty years our rural districts have lost greatly in population, the girls and boys of the farm find- ing more pleasure and enjoyment in the towns and cities. The farm home and its surroundings should be made attractive and inspiring to the occupants, particularly to the younger genera- tion, that they may see in their homes far more that is pleasant and enjoyable than in the tiny cubicles which pass for homes in our great cities. It is not to be supposed that the farmer of average means can purchase fine paintings and works of art, but he can improve his ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 107 108 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING BORDER PLANTING EDGED WITH BULBS AND PERENNIALS Fig. 98. Ensuring continuous bloom from early Summer until late in Fall. See page 1 02 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 109 immediate surroundings at very little cost, making the home a thing of beauty rather than a hideous collection of purely utilitarian conveniences. The first aim in the landscape development should be toward an orderly arrangement of the barns, dairies, poultry yard and other features to be maintained for housing the stock and storing the crops. There is beauty as well as convenience in order. With the buildings located in their proper relation to each other and to the house, and the walk and drive arrangement carefully planned, the question of beautification is made quite simple. All plantings should be composed of trees and shrubs that are very hardy and of easy culture, and for sentimental reasons it is well to select the old standard varieties familiar to old-time farms everywhere (Fig. 100). Among the shrubs the most widely known is the Lilac. Lilacs are perfectly hardy and thrive in almost any soil and position. The varieties have been greatly improved, so that kinds may now be had with single or double flowers and in a wide range of color. The Snowball is another favorite always found with the Lilac in the old-time farmyard. Other familiar kinds are the old-fashioned Sweet Shrub, Golden Bell, Bridal Wreath, Japanese Quince or Fire Bush, Mock Orange, Rose of Sharon and Weigelas. Add to these the Hydrangea and we have a selection that covers a long period of bloom. There is not a place where these old-fashioned and greatly loved varieties may not be used to advantage as a means of ornamentation. Plant them at the corners of buildings, at fence corners, at interior angles, at intersections of walks and drives, and in pairs down the straight walk that leads to barn and garden. The farm barn may have an end or side protected from the stock, which may be changed from an unsightly aspect to one of picturesqueness through the planting of a few hardy shrubs (Figs. 101, 102 and 103). Although the truck garden is a strictly utilitarian feature, it is quite practical and not an extravagance to provide space for a small flower garden between the truck garden and the house, a scxt of an anteroom to the strictly prosaic feature beyond. The flower garden should not be large; it would be an error to make it so, and some of the space in the beds should be given over 110 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PYRAMIDAL EVERGREENS IN BORDER PLANTINGS Fig. 99. Vervaene's Arborvitae (Thuya occidental Vervaeneana). A good type>f pyra- midal evergreen. See page 102 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 111 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING ON THE FARM Fig. 100. A planting of old-fashioned shrubs around a farm house. See page 109 A TYPE OF NEGLECT TOO OFTEN SEEN Fig. 101. Usual type of farm barn, entirely devoid of planting. See page 109 112 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING QUITE DIFFERENT AND ALTOGETHER TO BE PREFERRED Fig. 102. An attractive planting of hardy trees and shrubs against the side of a farm barn. A constant pleasure to the farmer and his family. See page 109 A FURTHER IDEA OF HOME GROUND IMPROVEMENT Fig. 103. -Planting at the intersection of the highway and the road to the farm barn, raises the value of farm property. See page 109 ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 113 3 IV V 114 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING to the smaller vegetables and herbs, keeping the flower borders along the walks. In the old-time gardens these borders were denned by box edging or stone curbing. When stones were used they were whitewashed each Spring when the buildings and the fences receive their annual coat. I recall a charming old garden which had been laid out along these lines (Fig. 104). The flower borders were four feet wide and the walks, of the same dimension, divided the area into four equal rectangles. On the axis of one of the walks, which was a continua- tion of a walk paralleling the front of the house, stood an old Catha- rine Pear, perched on a little mound, that formed a quiet resting place under the overhanging branches. The Pear was the center of the little lawn, about thirty feet square, partially enclosed by three clumps of Lilacs, and was the dominant note in the scene, standing stately and serene. At each corner of the garden and at the intersection of the walks were specimen shrubs, sixteen in all, and between them, back of the garden beds, were placed the Currant and Gooseberry bushes. In the flower beds were planted the herbs, and those old-fashioned garden favorites, Paeonies, Chrysanthe- mums, Larkspurs, Sweet Rockets, and Flags, preceded in the Spring by hundreds of yellow Daffodils, making a scene worthy of reproduction on every farm in the land. SUMMARY Briefly expressed, the use of ornamental trees and shrubs for the embellishment of a scene must be along lines that are both esthetic and practical. The selection of a particular plant or group of plants for a given position should be for the reason that it best suits that place, a point to be determined by a careful study of the best prin- ciples of landscape design. Simplicity and repose should be key- notes. Avoid the use of too many varieties and only as isolated specimens should abnormally shaped plants be admitted. Groups should consist of carefully selected units, all blending to make a pleasing whole. From a practical viewpoint the success of any planting depends largely on the vigor and robustness with which the plants grow. Select plants best suited to the physical conditions in the locality. With splendid assortments to choose from in every section it is de- cidedly wrong to waste time and effort in trying to nurse along plants unsuited to local conditions. ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 115 TREE PLANTING All plantings should be preceded by careful preparation of the soil. Lawn trees are permanent features and as such every detail of the planting should have close attention. This will insure a healthy growth and proper development. Holes for trees should be at least a foot wider than the spread of the roots and at least twenty-four inches deep, unless for a large specimen, when it should be proportionately deeper. In heavy clay soil, where the water is apt to collect and remain, the holes should be dug deep enough to afford good drainage. If the clay extends some depth proper drainage may be insured by placing broken stone in the bottom of the holes. Tree holes should be made as large or larger at the bottom than they are at the top (Figs. 105 and 106). Too often holes just the reverse are prepared. All broken or bruised roots should be cut off clean. Holes should be sufficiently large to allow of spreading all roots in a natural position. Good soil should be provided for the planting, and very dry and fine soil worked in carefully around the roots and thoroughly tamped so that no spaces remain. Avoid planting too deeply (Fig. 107). Trees should be set just a very little lower than they have been growing in the nursery. Avoid mounding up right around the stem after planting (Fig. 108). When this little hump gets dry and hard it makes a shed for that water which should penetrate to the roots. A slight depression is much better and provides a cup for holding the moisture (Fig. 109). After planting, a good mulching over the root areas will conserve the moisture and greatly benefit the tree. If the tree is three or five inches or more in caliper set wire stays to keep it straight and to protect against any loosening of the roots (Fig. 110). PRUNING The tops of all trees should be reduced at least one-third by pruning back when transplanting. This will overcome somewhat the loss of feeding roots and conserve the amount of sap in the trees until new feeding roots are formed. 116 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING sf ^ ?i/*. ) w l/"t 1-5 = ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 117 o o u. -5O5-5 '. OZHJ2 g S 313*2 ^ ^6T ^f ^'^> -A 118 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING 1* - - ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 119 All such pruning should be done carefully, making the cuts clean and close up to a bud or stem, so that no stubs remain to die back and cause injury. Hard wooded trees such as the Oaks and Hickories must be cut back hard as they are apt to have fewer feed- ing roots than the softer wooded trees. Do not waste time and material on a poor specimen. Secure good, healthy trees with good root system and, if possible, trees that have been frequently trans- planted. TREE PLANTING WITH DYNAMITE The blowing of tree holes with dynamite is to be recommended from the standpoint of economy alone. A good, big tree hole is much more easily dug if the ground has first been loosened with dynamite. The loosening of the soil aids root growth and affords easy pene- tration of moisture to the root feeding areas. One-half a stick of forty per cent, dynamite is usually sufficient for a hole. One thing to avoid in planting trees in dynamited holes is the pot hole (Fig. Ill), formed by the gases at the time of the explosion. Holes are not dug deeply enough after the explosion and this hole is allowed to remain. After a few rains have loosened the soil above it drops down to fill up the hole, leaving roots uncovered, often resulting in the loss of the tree. All dynamited holes should be gone over carefully with a long pole or bar so that the earth will settle into any deep holes that may have been formed. MOVING LARGE TREES On new estates quick results are often desired and may be secured by the planting of large specimen trees (Fig. 112). The same principles apply to the moving of these large specimens as apply in all instances of tree transplanting. The trees must be carefully dug, preserving the small feeding roots even though they extend for a distance of from fifteen to twenty feet away from the trunk. As these are uncovered they should be tied up in bundles and bent out of the way, and protected with straw or burlap care- fully wrapped around the roots. If the trees are very large and heavy special apparatus must be secured for their proper handling. The method of moving large trees with a six or eight foot ball 120 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING of earth, cutting off all roots extending beyond, is not as satisfactory as tree moving where the roots are combed out and preserved. ROOT PRUNING When it is desired to move a large tree from one portion of the estate to another, the specimen should be root pruned at least one year in advance of the transplanting. This is accomplished by digging a trench about twelve inches wide, five or six feet away from the trunk, or a distance proportionate with the size of the tree, and filling the trench with soil and well-rotted manure to induce an added growth of small fibrous roots. When moving large trees the head should be reduced somewhat to balance the loss in roots. CARE OF TREES AND SHRUBS Much of the beauty in plant life is in the healthy, vigorous growth, enabling the tree or shrub to put forth its best effort in pleasing foliage and abundant bloom and fruit. Continual and systematic attention should be given to the proper nourishing, watering and pruning of all trees and plants. The majority of our plants are existing under more or less unfavorable conditions and need this attention. If plants are kept in a healthy, vigorous condition the suscepti- bility to insect, fungus, and scale attacks will be reduced to a minimum.. Trees planted in the lawn should have the sod removed from about them occasionally and a feeding of hardwood ashes, humus or well rotted manure applied. Such applications should extend to the area of the spread of the branches and not be confined to a very limited area immediately around the trunk. When trees are kept mulched the mulching should be loosened occasionally to insure a free circulation of air. All dead branches should be removed from trees, and all inter- fering limbs. This should be attended to at regular intervals. Neglect of proper pruning often causes irreparable damage to trees through heavy winds or ice storms. All flowering shrubs should be properly and systematically pruned to insure an abundance of flower and fruit. Do not cut shrubs back during the Winter regardless of the variety or blooming season. Spring blooming shrubs, which of a necessity must form ORNAMENTAL PLANTING OF TREES AND SHRUBS 121 122 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING flowering wood the season previous, should be pruned just after they have flowered. Lilacs, Golden Bell, Japanese Quince and similar Spring blooming shrubs are in this class. The pruning should not be too severe, simply enough to keep the plants in shape and to allow sunlight and air to all parts. The Fall flowering shrubs, such as the Rose of Sharon and Hydrangeas, bloom on wood made during the immediate Summer. Such shrubs should have a vigorous Winter, or early Spring pruning. INSECT PESTS Insect pests attacking trees and shrubs are mostly of two kinds: those that injure by eating the foliage, such as the Elm Leaf Beetle, and those that injure by sucking, such as the various scales and plant lice. For the leaf chewing insects a spraying with some poisonous substance that will readily adhere to the leaves is most effective. Paris green and arsenate of lead are recommended. These sub- stances may be purchased in commercial form, prepared for such use, and accompanied by full instructions for proper application. For scales and plant lice some remedy that kills by contact must be applied. Kerosene and soap emulsions are the best. A wide band of burlap tacked around the tree with an overlap is very useful in arresting the progress of caterpillars. Such over- laps should be turned frequently and the caterpillars destroyed. THE FLOWER GARDEN 123 CHAPTER VII THE FLOWER GARDEN The highest personal note in the art of landscape design is the flower garden, and no scheme of landscape development is com- plete, no matter how small the property, which does not provide space for a garden. It is in the garden that our individual fancies as to the choice and arrangement of flowers may be indulged. There we may have a profusion of flowers, harmony of color, charm of ef- fect and, above all, seclusion and restful quiet; for the growing of flowers is indeed the simplest yet most satisfying of pleasures. We would emphasize again that fitness is the very foundation of all artistic excellence and in none of the arts is this more appli- cable than in garden design. The flower garden, although a separate unit in the general landscape, and subject in itself to a greater free- dom of treatment, must be in harmony with its surroundings. If the house is of simple design simplicity must dominate the garden. That the charming box-bordered gardens of Colonial days were so in keeping with the residence was due largely to the simplicity of design gardens with not only unpretentious outlines, but the variety of plants so limited that very simple color combinations resulted. It is most gratifying to witness, since more attention is being given to the arrangement of the home surroundings, that the mis- cellaneous beds, which in former years were scattered over the lawn in a most heterogeneous fashion, are gradually being supplanted by the more orderly arrangement of plantations confined to the boun- dary lines of the property, bordered driveways or paths, or within enclosed areas, as formal or informal gardens. CLASSIFICATION OF GARDENS Enclosed gardens are by no means of modern origin. Space may not be given here to a full classification of various types of gar- dens, but it will be well to consider briefly those which have had great influence in the development of our present day garden. Of these, the Italian, French and English gardens are most important. 124 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING The Italian gardens did not depend on floral ornamentation for their chief beauty. While not entirely devoid of flowers they were mostly appreciated for their architectural embellishments. Built upon three levels, ample opportunity was afforded for retaining walls, capped with balustrades of the most ornate character. The use of water in the garden was brought to its greatest perfection by the Italian architects. Remarkable water effects were achieved within a small compass and with little quantity. The French gardens were also very architectural in design, but more extensive in area. Much consideration was given to vistas, particularly along diagonal lines. Many plants trimmed to formal outlines were used. Even the trees were treated as units in the architectural scheme, to be pruned and fashioned in harmony with the structural parts of the garden. The Italian and French gardens, though softened by the elements of time and made interesting by the charm of romance, are not so satisfying as are the English gardens. The English garden exists more for its flowers and, although not devoid of architectural fea- tures, the masonry is softened by the abundant display of flowering plants. It is from the English garden and its flowers that we shall derive the greatest inspiration for our ow r n gardens. It is to the flower garden as an enclosed feature, of formal or informal design, that these notes will chiefly apply. The flower garden should be treated as a unit in the general scheme and the principal views of the garden should be considered from the house. It should be an enclosure separated from the lawn by a wall or hedge. Such a scheme provides privacy and seclusion for those who would walk or work among the flowers; it is a pro- tection to the growing plants and, in concealing this feature from without, leaves something to the imagination and more to be appre- ciated from a vantage point in the house. GARDEN DIMENSIONS AND DESIGN GARDEN ENTRANCE The principal entrance to the garden (Fig. 113) should be from the house and on an axis with some important door or window. It is from this point that we receive our first impression, and it should be so featured that the whole scene unfolded creates in the be- holder that delight, fascination, allurement and complete sense of THE FLOWER GARDEN 125 126 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING rest which afford to lovers of nature the highest type of enjoy- ment. The garden should radiate an atmosphere of hospitality, creating an irresistible desire to stroll within and enjoy all the wealth of form and fragrance of foliage and flower. The garden will always be more restful if placed on a level below the house grades (Figs. 114 and 114A), requiring steps for the descent. Definiteness may be given to the garden entrance by an arch formed of plants in the enclosing hedge, or of metal or wood, fram- ing some enticing water feature beyond. Should it be necessary to place the garden on a higher level the approach should be broad and easy. Step risers should never be more than six inches and the tread should be at least fourteen inches. The dimensions and shape of the garden are matters which will be influenced more or less by the residence and the configuration of the ground. The area of the garden, however, should always ex- ceed that covered by the house. Where the property is rather narrow the greater dimension of the garden should extend in the direction of the greater dimension of the property. When planning the garden the amount of care necessary for the proper upkeep should be borne in mind and the space designed accordingly, as it is necessary that the garden should at all times be in as nearly perfect condition as possible. A flower garden adjoining a house should have some space between it and the house proper as the foreground to the floral scene beyond. The rectangular design of beds in gardens possesses the greatest character and displays the plantations within the beds to the best advantage. This is specially so with the oblong enclosures. In square or nearly square gardens (Fig. 115), curved lines give a greater variety, especially within a small compass. To add to the interest the design should always include a central feature, either a pool, bird bath, or even a sundial, although the latter is more appropriately placed in a more isolated position. The central feature may be oblong, circular, elliptical, or a com- bination of the square and the circle. In some instances it is advantageous, where the distance is not too great, to extend the garden from the house to the party line (Fig. 116 See page 136), arranging it so that it will come between the pleasure grounds and the service portion. THE FLOWER GARDEN 128 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN. Fig. I14A See pages 130 and 131 A'o. Quan. Variety Common Name i 8 Aconitum Napellus Monkshood 2 10 Delphinium chinense Chinese Larkspur 3 9 Pentstemon barbatus hybrids Beard's Tongue 4 10 Gypsophila acutifolia Baby's Breath 5 i Coreonsis lanceolata Tickseed 6 Helenium Hoopesii Early Sneezewort 7 Aconitum Napellus Monkshood 8 Achillea, The Pearl Double White Yarrow 9 Phlox, Miss Lingard Early Phlox White IO Phlox Sieboldi Tall Vermilion Phlox Aconitum Napellus Monkshood 2 I Lupinus polyphyllus Aster laevis Lupine Lavender Hardy Aster t Hollyhocks Allegheny Fringed Hollyhocks s Aster novae angliae rosea Pink Hardy Aster 6 i Delphinium elatum Tall Larkspur 7 Anchusa Italica Dropmore var. Alkanet 8 i Physostegia virginica Obedient Plant 9 I Delphinium elatum Tall Larkspur O I Delphinium elatum Tall Larkspur j Boltonia latisquama Starwort 2 Anchusa Italica Dropmore var. Alkanet , Delphinium elatum Tall Larkspur 4 Aster novi belgii climax Pink Hardy Aster - Hollyhocks Allegheny Fringed Hollyhocks 26 I Heliopsis Pitcheriana Orange Sunflower 27 Aconitum Napellus Monkshood 28 Phlox, Miss Lingard Early Phlox, white 29 Phlox, Rheinlander Salmon Pink Hardy Phlox 30 Phlox Sieboldi Vermilion Hardy Phlox 31 I Aconitum Napellus Monkshood 32 I Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Yellow Hardy Chrysanthemu 33 Aster laevis Lavender Hardy Aster 34 Hollyhocks, double red Double Red Hollyhocks 35 I Aquilegia chrysantha Yellow Columbine 36 ii Phlox W. C. Egan Light Lavender Phlox 37 13 Chrysanthemum St. Illoria Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum 38 i Phlox Queen White Phlox 39 Juniperus Cannarti Pyramidal Cedar 40 Juniperus Pfitzeriana Spreading Cedar 4 1 Juniperus Cannarti Pyramidal Cedar 42 i Dianthus barbatus Newport Pink Pink Sweet William 43 Godetias (annual) 44 Campanula persicifolia Peach-leaved Bellflower 45 Iris aurea Yellow Flag 46 Gypsophila paniculata Baby's Breath 47 Digitalis purpurea Foxglove 48 Aquilegia caerulea Rocky Mountain Columbine 49 Phlox amaena Early Phlox Pink 50 Pentstemon barbatus Beard's Tongue 51 Sedum spectabile Live Forever 52 Aquilegia chrysantha Yellow Columbine 53 54 Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravere Phlox Baron von Dedem Red Hardy Chrysanthemum Red Hardy Phlox 55 Calliopsis (annual) 56 57 58 59 60 i Anemone Japonica Queen Charlotte Papaver orientale Doronicum excelsum Delphinium chinense alba Phlox Independence Pink Japanese Anemone Oriental Poppy Leopard's Bane White Chinese Larkspur White Hardy Phlox 61 Phlox Coquelicot 1 Scarlet Hardy Phlox 62 Dianthus barbatus, white White Sweet William 63 7 Gaillardia grandiflora Blanket Flower THE FLOWER GARDEN 129 Key No. Quart. 64 7 65 5 66 7 67 9 68 5 69 7 70 7 7i 5 72 7 73 5 74 5 75 5 76 7 77 9 78 3 79 IO So 7 81 5 82 IO 83 10 84 5 8| S 86 5 87 S 88 5 89 7 90 5 91 7 92 5 93 5 94 5 95 3 96 7 97 7 98 5 99 7 IOO 12 101 5 IO2 5 103 7 104 7 i OS 7 1 06 5 107 7 108 5 109 10 no 5 III 5 112 9 113 12 114 3 "I 5 IO 117 12 118 5 119 7 120 7 121 8 122 5 123 124 IO IO KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 114A-Continued 127 128 129 130 131 132 Variety Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Sedum spectabile " Brilliant " Coreopsis lanceolata Phlox amoena Iris Kaempferi Gypsophila elegans Aquilegia canadensis Dianthus Newport Pink Dianthus barbatus white Coreopsis lanceolata Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Dianthus Newport Pink Rudbeckia Newmanni Gaillardia grandiflora Heuchera sanguinea Gypsophila paniculata Phlox divaricata Veronica longifolia subsessilis Delphinium elatum Gypsophila paniculata Aster amellus elegans Platycodon grandiflorum Aconitum Napellus Delphinium chinense Pentstemon Torreyi Lupinus polyphyllus Scabiosa japonica Delphinium, Gold Medal Hybrids Aster novi belgii Heiderose Iris pallida dalmatica Coreopsis lanceolata grandiflora Campanula glomerata Iris Kaempferi Phlox divaricata Delphinium elatum Veronica longifolia subsessilis Rose Christine Wright Stokesia cyanea Gypsophila paniculata Aquilegia vulgaris Phlox Miss Lingard Centaurea montana Dianthus plumarius Iris pallida dalmatica Dianthus plumarius Homer Plumbago Larpentae Platycodon grandiflorum Coreopsis grandiflora Iris Kaempferi Aster blue (annuals) Paeonia 1'Esperance Funkia caerulea Delphinium formosum Lilium candidum Potentilla Vulcan Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Aquilegia vulgaris Dianthus barbatus, white Delphinium chinense Geum coccineum Plumbago Larpentae Platycodon grandiflorum Dianthus plumarius Homer Coreopsis grandiflora Iris Kaempferi Iris pallida dalmatica Lilium candidum Delphinium flormosum Potentilla Vulcan Common Name Golden Chrysanthemum Live Forever Tickseed Early Pink Phlox Japanese Iris Baby's Breath Red Columbine Pink Sweet William White Sweet William Tickseed Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum Pink Sweet William Black-eyed Susan Blanket Flower Coral Bells Baby's Breath Early Blue Phlox Speedwell Tall Larkspur Baby's Breath Early Aster Bellflower Monkshood Chinese Larkspur Beard's Tongue Lupine Blue Bonnet Tall Larkspur Hardy Aster Lavender Iris Tickseed Clustered Bellflower Japanese Iris Early Blue Phlox Tall Larkspur Speedwell Climbing Pink Rose Stoke's Aster Baby's Breath Columbine Early White Phlox Hardy Cornflower Snow Queen Lavender Flag, White, Pink Hardy Pink Leadwort Bellflower Tickseed Japanese Iris Pink Peony Blue Day Lily Tall Larkspur Madonna Lily Crimson Cinquefoil Pink Chrysanthemum Columbine Sweet William Chinese Larkspur Avens Leadwort Bellflower Hardy Pink Tickseed Japanese Iris Lavender Flag Madonna Lily Dark Blue Larkspur Crimson Cinquefoil 130 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE FLOWER GARDEN 132 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN. Fig. 114A Continued Key No. Quan. Variety Common Name 133 134 T-IC 7 5 p Aquilegia vulgaris Funkia ovatus Dianthus barbatus Columbine Blue Day Lily Sweet William 136 9 Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum 137 138 5 7 Linum perenne Centaurea montana Hardy Flax Hardy Cornflower 139 7 Delphinium elatum Tall Larkspur 140 IO Aquilegia vulgaris Blue Columbine 141 IO Gypsophila paniculata Baby's Breath 142 IO Clematis Davidiana Perennial Clematis 143 5 Veronica longifolia subsessilis Speedwell 144 145 IO 7 Phlox divaricata Campanula Dahurica Early Blue Phlox Bellflower 146 6 Stokesia cyanea Stoke's Aster 147 148 5 5 Coreopsis longifolia grandiflora Aster laevis Tickseed Hardy Aster Lavender 149 5 Delphinium. Gold Medal Hybrids Tall Larkspur ISO 151 7 7 Lupinus polyphyllus Pentstemon barbatus hybrids Lupines Beard's Tongue 152 8 Iris pallida dalmatica Lavender Flag 153 ii Platycodon grandiflorum Japanese Bellflower 154 s Aconitum Napellus Monkshood 155 IO Scabiosa japonica Blue Bonnet 156 157 9 10 Delphinium elatum Gypsophila paniculata Tall Larkspur Baby's Breath 158 159 1 60 7 5 7 Veronica longifolia subsessilis Delphinium chinense Phlox amcena Speedwell Chinese Larkspur Early Pink Phlox 161 5 Sedum spectabile Live Forever 162 IO Geum coccineum Avens 163 IO Aquilegia chrysantha Yellow Columbine 165 5 9 Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravdre Pentstemon barbatus Red Chrysanthemum Beard's Tongue 166 8 Phlox Rheinstrom Salmon Pink Hardy Phlox 167 168 10 IO Gypsophila paniculata Digitalis purpurea Baby's Breath Foxgloves 169 9 Iris Kaempferi Japanese Iris 170 IO Iris aurea Yellow Flags 171 s Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Golden Chrysanthemum 172 IO Dianthus Newport Pink Pink Sweet William 173 7 Aquilegia chrysantha Yellow Columbine 174 7 Papaver orientale Oriental Poppy 175 7 Delphinium chinense alba White Chinese Larkspur 176 5 Anemone japonica Queen Charlotte Pink Japanese Anemone 177 7 Doronicum excelsum Leopard's Bane 178 5 Phlox Coquelicot Scarlet Phlox 179 9 Digitalis purpurea alba White Foxglove 1 80 II Gaillardia grandiflora Blanket Flower 181 IO Dianthus barbatus, white Sweet William 182 10 Gladiolus Wm. Falconer 183 5 Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Golden Chrysanthemum 184 5 Sedum spectabile Live Forever 185 9 Coreopsis lanceolata Tickseed 1 86 187 1 88 9 5 7 Phlox amoena Iris Kaempferi Gypsophila paniculata Dwarf Early Pink Phlox Japanese Iris Baby's Breath 189 7 Aquilegia canadensis Red Columbine 190 191 5 7 Chrysanthemum Autumn Queen Dianthus barbatus, white Pink Hardy Chrysanthemum Sweet William 192 5 Coreopsis grandiflora Tickseed 193 7 Gaillardia grandiflora Blanket Flower 194 7 Paeonia Van Houttei Peony 195 196 197 S 7 10 Rudbeckia fulgida Heuchera sanguineum Gypsophila paniculata Black-eyed Susan Coral Bells Baby's Breath 198 12 Buxus pyramidalis Pyramidal Box, 4-5' 199 2OO 201 8 3000 48 Juniperus Cannarti Dwarf Box for edging Tall Pink Geraniums Pyramidal Cedar, 4-5' 6-8" 202 4 Crataegus Oxycantha Standard Eng. Hawthorn, 6" THE FLOWER GARDEN 133 The entire garden area should be on one plane if it is possible to so construct it at not too great an expense. This level should be somewhat below the established grade of the house line (Fig. 113). Where the slope of the ground is too steep for such treatment, two or three levels may be established. A garden constructed on dif- ferent levels may be made very interesting, as it affords an oppor- tunity to introduce many architectural features and to vary greatly the planting on the different planes. GARDEN BACKGROUND It is important to consider the garden from the picturesque point of view. This will include not only the arrangement of the interior beds but, quite as important, the setting of the surrounding plan- tations. The background (Fig. 117) should be dense, of a varied assortment of plants. Where space permits, and the height of the plants will not interfere with the view, make a background of White Pine, Hemlock, Birch, Beech, Maple and Ash. Such a combination will give pleasing contrast at all seasons of the year, especially in the Fall, when the foliage of the deciduous trees turns to brilliant shades of red and yellow. On extensive grounds such a back- ground planting may be placed some distance from the garden and particularly so when there is a little rise in the ground beyond the end of the garden. When the garden area extends to the party line it is necessary to provide a high hedge or wall which will rise above the horizon. If a wall is used it should be partly clothed with vines as green is the most satisfactory garden background (Fig. 118). It is pos- sible sometimes to so locate the garden that a natural background on the adjoining property may be taken advantage of. A pleasing effect may often be secured in gardens enclosed by a wall, by introducing flowering trees and shrubs in the plantations immediately without, so that the branches may be trained to hang over the wall to meet the floral ensemble within. GARDEN ENCLOSURES The garden in the sense that it is used in these paragraphs refers to a portion of the estate set aside as an enclosed feature. An en- closure provides privacy and seclusion to those who would walk or work among the flowers; it is a protection to the growing plants, PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING f "Iifsquare or nearly square gardens curved lines give a greater variety, especially within a small compass" THE FLOWER GARDEN 135 H ? B-s l^llll^l I 2 Ipll-yijssllll sa f| 5| | a| a"^ I !' 8 i-Nl^;^fljpa r- M ^-, c -" - Q. t ' 3 d3 c *'aj ci-i-i" - rt | - M *>.c3 ) - i ^(i; S *!"' |s5c:E^-E.s| ' s .eSs|c^c^s^||| - \ ts.3 *.iJ8 a - ~ 8. hi* 'iKj ,fSS THE FLOWER GARDEN 137 138 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING affords a background and, in concealing the garden from without, leaves something to the imagination and more to be appreciated from a vantage point in the house. Garden enclosures may be of stone, brick, stucco or plants in the form of a hedge. HEIGHT OF GARDEN ENCLOSURES The height of outer garden enclosures will vary according to the surroundings. Where the outlook is not particularly attractive they may be six or seven feet high. High walls are also a necessity in some localities as a protection to the plants. Where it is thought best to maintain views of the surrounding landscape a wall three to five feet high is sufficient. Subordinate garden walls should not be more than three to four feet high. On a small place, where the scene must be made within the enclosure, a high wall is necessary. GARDEN WALLS When walls are adopted as an enclosure for the garden they should always be of the same material as the house. If the house walls are stuccoed the sides of the garden wall should also be stuccoed, though, to provide a slight contrast, the piers and coping may be of brick. This refers to gardens which are adjacent to residences. When they are set apart, more or less isolated from the house, the material may differ from that in the building. When walls of stone, brick, or stucco are used for the garden enclosures they should be designed along artistic lines and be in perfect harmony with the scene to be created. GRAY SANDSTONE WALLS Soft gray sandstone (Fig. 118) with an occasional marking of red and orange is the most pleasing stone for the enclosing walls. These should not be less than eighteen inches thick with a footing course to project six inches beyond on each side, making a thickness of thirty inches. The depth of the footing should not be less than eight inches. The depth of the foundation below the frost line will depend on the latitude. In Philadelphia and vicinity the founda- tion should extend to a depth of three feet. THE FLOWER GARDEN 140 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Stone walls with mortar joints should be less finished in texture than the house walls. The joints should be raked out to a depth of from two to three inches. The shadows produced by this treat- ment have a softening effect and the vines, extending their clinging tendrils into the interstices, seem to be more firmly fixed to the supporting structure. COPING The coping should be of stone similar to that in the body of the wall (Fig. 118), with a projection of two to three inches, according to the roughness of the face. This refers to a coping of stones laid flat. If the coping stones are set on edge they should be set flush with the sides of the wall. The coping should be level along the top. The irregular or so-called scotched coping is not at all satisfactory for a garden enclosure, as it is a line of agitation and most unrestful. BRICK WALLS The brick wall (Fig. 119) as a garden enclosure is not so pleasing from an esthetic point of view as those of other materials. Be- cause of the color it does not make a good background for many of the flowers. If brick is used a dark shade should be selected and laid with a broad mortar joint. A brick wall should not be less than twelve inches thick and should be laid in cement mortar on a good foundation of stone or concrete extending not less than four inches on each side beyond the face of the finished wall. To economize on a quantity of brick the wall may be paneled and piers placed at intervals of from ten to twelve feet apart, using a nine-inch wall between them. An effective and practical wall may be constructed by laying the brick lengthwise, four inches thick, with a two-inch opening between the ends. In this construction the piers should be placed eight feet apart. The coping for a brick wall may "be of brick on edge, molded brick, brick laid on an angle of 45 degrees, cement cut stone, or tile. The coping should have a projection of not more than an inch on each side of the wall. A coping set flush is quite agreeable. All brick walls should be clothed with clinging vines trained over the top to break the line and soften the effect. THE FLOWER GARDEN 141 142 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING |. . '' ';' .".;-';'-. 1 I ' J ' r < ' . . ' ' .. ' i - ) i S. A { a . - ' > 1 1 v 1 ^ i 1 \ j, \ ' ' . ' . K w = " . h * 1- 8 - " * .-"*" . ' . . '** ^ I J 2 1 -5 (I <; .Q -J W ^ "I ^= ' 5 J o 1 I p ^ 1 < t" U == J ( H f ? C * t L - -i ^v- ..-. ...... .,._. ...x ..- .- -. .... ^^^^^^^^ .jjH _, THE FLOWER GARDEN 143 THE STUCCO WALL The stucco wall may be laid on stone, brick, hollow tile, or expanded metal. The usual method is to construct a rough wall on which is laid the first or scratch coat. When this has very nearly set a second coat of the color and texture desired is applied and finished. If the rough wall is built of brick it should not be less than nine inches thick, with a firm foundation of eighteen to twenty inches of stone or concrete, extending below the frost line usually from two to three feet. When building a stucco wall on brick a good effect may be se- cured by having a brick base and brick coping. The base to con- sist of a row of brick on end, projecting one quarter inch beyond the finished mortar surface. The coping should be constructed of a row of brick on edge with a very slight projection on each side of the wall. If hollow tile is used for the rough wall eight-inch tile may be used for walls less than five feet high; for walls above that, twelve inch tiles should be used. The brick base and coping may be effectively used with the hollow tile. Foundation should be the same as is used for brick. Rough stone walls for stucco should not be less than sixteen inches thick for walls five feet high or less. For walls above five feet the thickness should be at least eighteen inches. Foundation should be of stone or concrete, twenty to twenty-two inches thick and ex- tending below the frost line. The most economical stucco wall is that laid on expanded metal (Fig. 120) supported by channel iron set at intervals of one foot, with four channel irons set at intervals of eight feet in the form of a square, six inches apart, as a reinforcement. The cement mortar is worked through the openings in the expanded metal and, after it becomes hardened, the scratch coat is applied to the other side, the mortar clinging to the keys formed by the mortar worked through the openings. The finish coat of the texture and finish desired is then applied. The posts for such a wall should extend to a depth of two feet and be set in concrete. For the remainder of the wall it is only necessary to have the mortar extend six inches below the grade line. The coping should be of mortar two and one-half inches thick, 144 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING beveled on top, with a projection of about one-half inch on each side. All stucco walls should be covered with quick growing vines. Boston Ivy (Ampelopsis Veitchii), Red-berried Euonymus (Euonymus vegetus), and English Ivy (Hedera helix) are suitable. DRY STONE WALLS The rubble stone wall of field boulders is most satisfactory, and, when partly covered by vines, is highly picturesque. The dry wall may also be used to enclose the garden, especially in loca- tions where good rock is to be had on the ground. When used for this purpose they should batter or break back from each side, vines to be planted along the full length at irregular intervals. The vines should not be allowed to cover the entire wall. Rather, for reasons of contrast, and to show decidedly the limitations of the garden and the formidableness of the retaining and supporting walls, quite good stretches of it should be left uncovered. Rubble walls (Fig. 121) are particularly good where a retaining wall is required to maintain an embankment. The dry wall is less expensive than one laid in mortar and gives a greater latitude for ornamental treatment. Quarried stone or stone gathered on the property may be used for this purpose. The larger the stones the better. If the stones are from a quarry they should be as long as it is possible to secure them. The dry wall should have a batter of not less than one inch to the foot, and where it is proposed to use Alpine plants in the inter- stices it is better to have a batter of three inches to the foot. The building of a dry wall for plants is given in greater detail in the chapter on Rock Plants. The hedges of various plants are much less expensive and fulfil many requirements as a dividing line between lawn and garden. The Privet hedge is the most popular, as its quick growth and dark green leafage form an excellent background in a short period of time. The California Privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) , which is most frequently used, is not hardy in some latitudes; the tops are occa- sionally killed to the ground in Philadelphia, and instances are re- ported of the same damage being done in Kentucky. For cold latitudes the variety Ligustrum Ibota is more satisfactory. The THE FLOWER GARDEN 145 146 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Ligustrum Regelianum is an excellent hedge plant where it is de- sired to have a more picturesque enclosure. This plant is most at- tractive as a boundary to a wild garden, the lights and shadows being highly contrasted, giving a pleasing variety to this formal fea- ture more in tune with naturalistic surrounding. The variety Ligustrum amurense is much the best variety to use south of Washington; it rarely loses its leaves during the Winter and, in the Carolinas, Tennessee and Georgia it is evergreen. The Hemlock Spruce (Tsuga canadensis) (Fig. 122) hedge has been little used of late years, probably on account of its costliness, certainly not because it lacks beauty of outline or texture. The color is excellent as a background and, after growing to the re- quired height, it is much more formidable in appearance than the deciduous hedges. For quick effect the Arborvitae (Thuya occident- alis) is most valuable. It is practicable to secure specimens of this variety of any height up to seven feet, which is an advantage for instances where it is desired to have an immediate effect. The color is not so good for a background as plants of a darker shade of green but, nevertheless, is recommended as a hedge plant of merit. The general character of the garden will be improved by using piers at the corners and entrance. It adds dignity to the scenes and defines the outline more clearly. In large gardens, where a long line of hedge is somewhat monotonous and at times irregular in alignment, it is well to construct piers at regular intervals, for variety, and to maintain a more regular line than is otherwise possible. RETAINING WALLS If it is found advisable to construct the garden on more than one level, much thought should be given to the selection of material and the design of the necessary steps and retaining walls. How much more effective is a treatment of retaining walls (Fig. 121) than the slope, so generally adopted for each succeeding level ! Such slopes are difficult to mow and, in a dry Summer, the turf burns out badly. The use of stone as retaining walls between garden levels is not so generally adopted as it should be. The dry stone wall is especi- ally worthy of greater use. The foundations of garden walls should always extend at least two feet six inches below grade and batter THE FLOWER GARDEN 147 THE FLOWER GARDEN 149 two inches to the foot. The thickness of retaining walls will de- pend on the height it is necessary to make them. As a general rule, a thickness at the base of one-half the height will be found satisfactory. A great deal depends, however, on the physical struc- ture of the soil: a sandy, slippery soil will require a stronger wall than a hard, clayey soil, the latter being more self-retaining. Given a retaining wall with a northwest exposure, a scheme of wall plant- ing is possible; pockets may be left in the wall and filled with soil for plants. Alyssum saxatile, Heuchera sanguineum, Sedums, Arabis albida, Aquilegias, Gypsophila, Valeriana, Santolina, and many other plants, are suitable for such a purpose. GARDEN STEPS Garden steps (Fig. 123) built of stone or brick require a greater breadth of treatment than is necessary for these features in connec- tion with buildings. The risers should be close to six inches, and the tread at least fourteen inches in width. Steps either approaching the garden, or within the enclosure, may be built with cheek blocks at the ends or with the ends built into the slope and planted with Ivy or Euonymus to cover the raw appear- ance. This is more pleasing than the harsh lines of the cheek blocks. PIERS All retaining boundary walls should terminate in piers and the corners and entrances (Fig. 118) of walls and hedges should be defined by similar features. When the piers are built in a garden where a hedge is to be the enclosure, the piers should be from twenty-four to thirty inches wide; the hedge should be kept the same width and not allowed to become wider than the piers. Piers at corners or entrances should be built the same height as the wall and the coping (Fig. 118) returned around the pier as a mark of accentuation. An additional stone placed on top of the coping, and set back six or seven inches from the edge, is very effective. Where the entrance is to be featured by a gate or arch it is necessary to have the piers higher than the wall. Under such con- ditions it is more pleasing to have a ramp (Fig. 124) from the top of 150 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING the wall to a point near the top of the pier. This is more pleasing than to have the pier standing high above the wall. The same treatment should be applied at the intersection of two walls when, for reasons of grade, it is necessary to keep one below the other. If the garden is on several levels and it is necessary to keep the cross walls flush with the grade a ramp (Fig. 125) should be used to tie the side and cross walls together gracefully. WALKS AND BEDS The interior arrangement of walks and beds must be practical and simple in outline, avoiding a complication of geometrical figures which are unrestful and difficult to keep up. Straight lines (Fig. 126) always give more character than curved ones and are much easier to maintain. WALKS WIDTH The width of the paths will be regulated more or less by the area devoted to the garden, but they should always be as broad as Fig. 124. Ramp in wall to meet high pier at garden entrance. See page 149 THE FLOWER GARDEN 151 152 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE FLOWER GARDEN 153 154 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 128. An effective use of brick for. a garden walk, with bricks on edge for a border. See page 155 THE FLOWER GARDEN 155 the space will allow. In the smallest formal garden the minimum width should be four feet for the main paths, while the others may be as small as two and one-half feet. WALKS MATERIALS Garden walks may be constructed of a variety of materials; among the most popular are gravel, brick, field stones, flagstone, tan bark and turf. The element of color is important and should be given careful consideration. For this reason the grayish tint of crushed stone is not pleasing; limestone is too glaring. TURF WALKS The turf path (Fig. 127) is the most attractive of all. It is pleasant to walk on, restful to the eye, and blends delightfully with the varying shades of color in the plantings. It makes a har- monious groundwork for floral effects desired without fear of dis- cordant contrast. BRICK WALKS Bricks of rich, dark shades (Figs. 128 and 129) are very agreeable for garden walks. Occasional application of boiled linseed oil will darken the surface and give a more beautiful texture. The bricks should be laid in the basket (Fig. 50) or herring bone pattern (Fig. 52), with a neat border on end or edge. RED GRAVEL If red gravel is used it should be spread over a base of crushed stone at least four inches deep, and there should not be less than two inches of gravel, rolled and thoroughly compacted. STEPPING STONES The field stone or stepping stone walk (Fig. 53) is picturesque and gives an appearance of age to the garden. A single row of stones is much the best arrangement, as it leaves a greater portion of the walk in greensward. FLAGSTONES Flagstones laid with turf interstices are a change and give a satisfactory transition from the lawn to the utilitarian feature. The stones may be laid regularly or broken in irregular shapes and laid in broken range. If a mortar joint is used (Figs. 44 and 45) it should be finished flush with the stone surface. 156 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING SLATE Slate slabs, laid the same as the flagstones, are very pleasing in color and are very serviceable. Slates may be had beautifully mottled with brown and gray. TANBARK Tanbark walks have fallen into disuse, most likely on account of the care and expense of upkeep. The color is good and the tex- ture comfortable under foot. The sub-base for tanbark should be the same as for macadam, with an inch of the tanbark as a finish. A curb or border is necessary to keep the material within bounds. When gravel, brick or tanbark is used in path construction it should be bordered with turf or Box (Fig. 129), or both. Turf borders should not be less than twelve inches wide and, where space permits, wider. If the turf border is too narrow the periodic edging reduces it to irregular widths. For this reason stone or brick on end or edge is often preferable. GARDEN BEDS WIDTH Beds which may be reached from two sides can be six feet wide; those which can be worked from one side only should not be more than three feet wide. The beds should never be placed next to a hedge, as the roots of the stronger growing hedge plants become very troublesome to the cultivated and enriched area. Under some conditions it is not possible to avoid having a bed next to the hedge; in such cases a three-inch concrete wall, two and one-half feet deep, constructed along the inside of the hedge, will help to force the hedge roots in the opposite direction. PREPARING GARDEN BEDS A successful garden will depend greatly on the preparation of the soil, care in planting and the upkeep. Garden beds should contain from eighteen inches to two feet of good friable soil. If it is not possible to supply all beds with this amount of good soil en- riched with well rotted cow manure, the available top soil on the garden area should be stripped, the manure dug into the bottom soil THE FLOWER GARDEN 157 Fig. 129. Brick garden walk, laid diagonally on edge and bordered with Box. See pages 155, 156 158 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Figs. 130 and 131. "The construction and setting of the garden are second in importance to the floral ensemble." Contrast these two scenes ! See page 159 I THE FLOWER GARDEN 159 and the top soil replaced. If the bottom soil is heavy and does npt afford good drainage, sufficient sand or coal ashes should be added in addition to the manure. A free circulation of air and abundant moisture are requisites of root growth; and soil preparation should be such that will make these readily available. Coal ashes worked into bottom soil will afford good drainage and, at the same time, supply moisture from the lower strata by capillary attraction. HUMUS Humus in the form of decayed vegetable matter from bogs or lakes should be used generously in preparing garden beds. This material is rich in plant foods and, worked well into the surface soil, lessens the tendency to puddle or bake. FLORAL TREATMENT The construction and setting of the garden, essential as these are to its success, are second in importance to the floral ensemble (Figs. 130 and 131). In the selection and arrangement of the flowers (Fig. 132) a great deal of liberty may be exercised and personal tastes indulged. The best planned and most enjoyable gardens are those which provide a sequence of bloom, starting with the Snow- drops and Crocuses in early Spring and continuing on through the Spring, Summer and Fall until the waning season is brightened by such old favorites as the Japanese Anemones and ushered out by the hardy Chrysanthemums. An important subject to be considered in the arrangement of the flowers is that of balance. The height of the foliage and bloom on one side of the garden should have a corresponding unit on the other, not necessarily the same plant, but there should be some degree of similarity in outline and color. Much has been written of color in the garden. I would lay stress on these few points. It is well to keep the purples and blues at some distance from the principal point of view; the lighter colors should be in the foreground. This will enhance the distance and give a pleasing graduation of color. The question of mass should be given consideration. Most of the perennials have but a short season of bloom after which they are of little use. In selecting varieties for large clumps, those with a long blooming season should be chosen. Exceptions to this rule 160 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE FLOWER GARDEN 161 162 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING are such plants as German and Japanese Irises. These plants have foliage of artistic excellence contrasting well with other features in the garden. Very often large spaces occupied by plants of short blooming season may be brightened by the use of some Summer flowering bulbs, such as the Gladioli. Larkspurs (Fig. 132), Phlox, some of the Bellflowers, Chrysanthemums, and Japanese Anemones are good in masses. BULBS Bulbs should have a more intimate place in the garden than is customary (Fig. 133). Not in straight rows, but planted in clumps along the edges of the beds. ANNUALS Regardless of the care exercised in the selection and placing of the plants, the garden will not be altogether a success without the introduction of annuals (Fig. 134). Among the annuals are some of the most showy and useful plants that we have and they can be raised at a very small cost. Annuals are familiar to all and it is only necessary to say that the dull spots and bare spaces in the garden may be brightened if a little forethought is given each Spring to the raising of some Pansies, Snapdragons, Asters, Larkspurs, Zinnias, and other easily trans- planted kinds. The time to sow annuals is in the months of April and May. The directions printed on the package as to the seeding, soil, watering and care should be followed closely. For the time and expense required nothing will return so large a dividend in wealth of color and general satisfaction as the use of annuals. HARDY SHRUBS Hardy shrubs, too, have a place in the flower garden. Where the breadth is sufficient to allow unhampered development, these plants will give more character to the garden and afford a back- ground for the flowers. Their use is appreciated in breaking up broad views and establishing vistas to distant and interesting points. The Deutzias, Philadelphus coronarius, Kerria japonica, Viburnums, Syringas, Spiraeas and Buddleias are all good shrubs for garden THE FLOWER GARDEN 163 use. Planted as specimens they should be well separated, always leaving ample space for the herbaceous plants between the individual shrubs. Oftentimes- shrubs in the garden may be Utilized to shade and protect some rather tender perennials or hardy bulbs. EVERGREENS Unless we would have the garden almost devoid of interest during the Winter months it is well to introduce some evergreens. These should be placed at regular intervals and always at the corners and ends of the beds, where they are bisected by walks (Fig. 135). If a large area is provided in the center of the garden for some such ornament as a sundial or bird bath, evergreens may be used here to good effect. The pyramidal conifers are the best suited for garden planting, and such varieties as pyramidal Box, Biotas, Arborvitaes and tall Junipers are recommended. For general garden planting varieties having dark green foliage are most desirable. Junipers with light colored foliage, such as chinense and virginiana glauca, contrast poorly with the foliage of the flowers and against the gray stone of garden enclosures, when stone is used, The golden tipped kinds, too, should be omitted from the garden. TREATMENT OF GARDENS CONSTRUCTED ON MORE THAN ONE LEVEL When the garden is situated on two or three levels it is often very practicable to devote the first level to the Winter garden planted to evergreens with areas of turf; the second plateau to perennials; the third to Roses (Fig. 136). Where only two levels exist, combine the perennials and the Roses by placing the Roses around the outer edge and the herbaceous plants and annuals in the inner beds. PLANTING AROUND GARDEN ENCLOSURES The outside line of the garden enclosure on the lawn side should always be hidden with foliage. A mixed plantation of flowering shrubs, with a few pyramidal evergreens at the corners, is very ef- fective. In the Southern States, where many of the broad-leaved evergreens are hardy, the English Laurels, Laurestinus and Caro- lina Cherry, should be more widely used in such plantings. The flowering shrubs outside the garden, lifting their heads above the garden enclosure, add a charm to the scene quite in tune with the 164 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE FLOWER GARDEN 165 166 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING - 168 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 137-Seepage 167 Fig. 1 37. An interesting garden plan. A circular fountain and pool in the center of the elliptical garden on the lower level is the dominant feature. See page 170 Common Name Blue Japanese Flag Early Blue Phlox Tall Larkspur Stoke 's Aster Plantain Lily Lavender Flag Flag Alkanet Speedwell Chinese Bellflower False Indigo Plantain Lily False Indigo Plantain Lily Stoke 's Aster Tall Larkspur Early Blue Phlox Flag Flag Monkshood Speedwell Chinese Bellflower Plantain Lily Blue Japanese Flag Irish Yew Irish Yew Shining Rose Bo English Holly Yellow Flag Day Lily Beard's Tongue Rock Cress Phlox Columbine Red Peony Candytuft Baby's Breath White Peony Foxglove Plantain Lily Chrysanthemum Alum Root Chinese Larkspur Garden Heliotrope Showy Sedum Japanese Flag Lavender Flag Plantain Lily Yellow Flag Japanese Flag Columbine Pink Phlox Key No. Quan. Variety I 9 Iris Kaempferi, blue 2 12 Phlox divaricata 3 7 Delphinium hybridum 4 12 Stokesia cyanea ti 5 Funkia lancifolia 5 10 Iris pallida dalmatica 6 IO Iris Candida 7 7 Anchusa, Dropmore var. 8 IO Veronica spicata 9 15 Platycodon Mariesi 10 7 Baptisia australis ioi 5 Funkia caerulea II 7 Baptisia australis ii 5 Funkia lancifolia 2 15 Stokesia cyanea 3 . 7 Delphinium hybridum 4 12 Phlox divaricata 5 IO Iris Yolande 16 10 Iris Thavista I? 7 Aconitum Napellus 18 10 Veronica spicata 19 15 Platycodon Mariesii I9J 5 Funkia caerulea 20 9 Iris Kaempferi 21 4 Taxus baccata fastigiata 22 8 Taxus baccata fastigiata 23 2 Cotoneaster Simonsii 24 8 Ilex aquifolium 25 9 Iris Canary Bird 26 8 Hemerocallis flava 27 o Pentstemon barbatus 28 4 Arabis albida 29 5 Phlox R. P. Struthers 30 2 Aquilegia ceerulea 31 O Paeonia grandiflora rubra 32 I Iberis sempervirens 33 5 Gypsophila paniculata 34 7 Paeonia festiva maxima 35 5 Digitalis purpurea 36 7 Funkia lancifolia 37 7 Chrysanthemum Sunshine 38 9 Heuchera sanguinea 39 5 Delphinium chinense 40 7 Valeriana officinalis 41 5 Sedum spectabile 42 5 Iris Kaempferi 43 7 Iris pallida dalmatica 44 7 Funkia japonica 45 7 Iris aurea 46 8 Iris Kaempferi 47 5 Aquilegia caerulea 48 9 Phlox 1'Evenement THE FLOWER GARDEN 169 Key No. Quan. KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 1 37-Continued 49 50 Si 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 645 65 66 67 68 69 70 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 7 9 7 7 10 5 9 5 5 9 3 10 7 7 5 5 7 7 10 9 3 500 Variety Rudbeckia Newmanni Campanula persicifolia Chrysanthemum Fairy Queen Gaillardia compacta Iris Kaempferi Aquilegia chrysantha Phlox Queen Lupinus polyphyllus albus Lilium candidum Phlox Slocum Iris Yolande Iris Kaempferi Valeriana coccinea Funkia japonica Statice Gmelini Chrysanthemum Boston Funkia lancifolia Tritoma Pfitzeriana Stokesia cyanea Ponia Prince of Wales Iris aurea Coreopsis grandiflora Scabiosa caucasica Gypsophila paniculata Dianthus plumarius Phlox Pantheon Campanula rotundifolia Delphinium chinense Rudbeckia purpurea Paeonia Duke of Wellington Iris Kaempferi Platycodon Mariesii Chrysanthemum Klondike Geum coccineum Artemisia lactiflora Phlox Van Hochberg Iris Mme. Chereau Iris Kaempferi Aquilegia caerulea Lupinus Moerheimi Phlox Ingeberg Aquilegia Skinneri Lilium candidum Phlox Thor Rhododendron roseum elegans Rhododendron Wilsoni Rhododendron punctatum Rhododendron caractacus Rhododendron purpurea elegans Rhododendron Boule de Neige Rhododendron Boule de Neige Rhododendron purpurea elegans Rhododendron caractacus Rhododendron punctatum Rhododendron roseum elegans Rhododendron Wilsoni Ligustrum ovalifolium Common Name Black-eyed Susan Bellflower, Peach-leaved Pink Chrysanthemum Blanket Flower Japanese Flag Yellow Columbine White Phlox Lupine Madonna Lily Phlox Purple Flag Japanese Flag Scarlet Valerian Plantain Lily Sea Lavender Chrysanthemum Plantain Lily Red Hot Poker Plant Stoke 's Aster Peony* Yellow Flag Tickseed Blue Bonnet Baby's Breath Scotch Pink Phlox Harebell Chinese Larkspur Cone Flower Peony Japanese Flag Chinese Bellflower Chrysanthemum Avens Phlox Flag Japanese Flag Rocky Mountain Columbine Lupine Hardy Phlox Columbine Madonna Lily Hardy Phlox Pink Hybrid Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron Red Rhododendron Purple Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Purple Rhododendron Red Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron Pink Rhododendron Dwarf Rhododendron California Privet 170 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING floral effects within, and the sinuous outline of the border plantation is in perfect harmony with the naturalistic aspect of the garden from without. At desirable viewpoints the planting should be low so that a glimpse may be had of the lawn, plantations or distant scenes. Lilacs are particularly good for planting immediately outside the garden enclosure; also the Japanese Snowballs, the Rose of Sharon, and Deutzias. It is here that we may use the shrubs of upright character that produce their greatest wealth of bloom toward the top. Berried plants should also be considered in these plan- tations. The Wayfaring Tree (Viburnum lantana), Hercules' Club (Aralia spinosa), Photinia villosa, the Hawthorns, Burning Bush (Euonymus), Flowering Dogwood (Cornus florida), Bush Honey- suckle (Lonicera), and the deciduous Holly (Ilex verticillata) , arc all adaptable to such a purpose. Additional Winter color may be secured by planting the red and yellow twigged Dogwoods and, if the scope of the plantation admits, a few Red Birch. The keynote of a successful garden setting is to so plant and arrange it that it will have the appearance of having existed before the garden was formed. WATER IN THE GARDEN A water feature (Fig. 137) is by far the most delightful note in the garden and gives added interest by reflecting the color of the flowers on its surface. It has the additional attribute of attracting the birds who come for their morning bath, thus adding a pleasing touch of life to the scene, usually augmented by a grateful carol of appreciation. More detailed notes on this subject will be found in the chapter on architectural features of the garden. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 171 CHAPTER VIII ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN The flower garden, even that of the tiniest dimensions, does not seem complete without some garden ornament, and in this day of great possibilities in this line, with the material procurable 'at but little expense, the desire is easy of fulfilment. The architectural adornments of the garden cover many features: from the humble seat to the magnificent garden house. The use of garden ornaments will depend greatly on their proper placing. The bird bath or fountain, placed in the center of a gar- den, on the axis of the paths, is appropriate and satisfying, even though it may be one of very simple design. SUNDIALS The sundial, upon which so many lines have been inscribed, both pleasant and harsh, is a garden ornament of many years' standing. The designs range from the simplest and most severe to the most elaborately ornate. The sundial is usually treated as a central feature, or placed at the terminus of a walk, and is generally quite conspicuous as one enters the garden. It is, therefore, a pleasant relief at times to find it treated as an isolated feature and placed in some secluded nook where it conveys much more charm by coming upon it unex- pectedly. If such a position is chosen care must be exercised in the plantings to avoid high growing plants which would interfere with the sun's rays on the dial. The expertness with which cement is manipulated today has made it possible to produce substantial sundials at a moderate cost, and they may be had in many unique and diversified designs. When setting the pedestal care should be taken to see that a substantial foundation is provided; this foundation may be con- structed of brick, stone or concrete; if of brick or stone it should be laid in cement mortar. If the sundial is placed where the turf will run up to the base 172 .PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING the foundation should be built the neat width or diameter, as turf burns out readily in shallow soil over stone, brick or concrete. In choosing a pedestal of artificial stone it is advisable to select one of simple outline and free from ornamentation, as the elements soon work havoc with the cement ornaments. The sundial should always be elevated at least one foot above the surrounding level and the paved area should be wide enough to allow one to stand comfortably upon it when reading the dial. BIRD BATHS The bird bath (Fig. 138) is an attractive feature, worthy of much wider usage. It is not alone charming as an architectural feature, but has the additional merit of attracting the birds to the confines of the garden, enlivening the scene by the touch of life, color and song. The bird font should be set in a conspicuous position where the little feathered visitors may be watched from some vantage point. It is important to provide a firm foundation for the font and to furnish water direct through a galvanized wrought iron pipe con- nected with the general water supply. A good fountain spray may be secured by using an adjustable hose nozzle, which will provide a single column of water or a fine spray, whichever is desired. The basin should always be placed on a fairly high pedestal as a protection against cats and other animals which prey upon the birds. FOUNTAINS AND POOLS The fountain (Fig. 139) is a garden feature greatly admired by all. The sound of falling water is ever a source of great delight. When the fountain has a surrounding pool the water should always be on the same level as the garden, or below that level. Instances are frequent where this rule is not observed and the water allowed to rise to a plane above the surrounding ground. The lack of re- pose in such a pool is very noticeable; such a situation is incorrect. Pools or fountains (Fig. 140) are at their best when placed in the center of the garden or at the end of a vista down a garden walk or broad turf area. DEPTH Pools should never be less than twenty-two inches deep when it is desired to grow Water Lilies. Two feet or two feet six inches are even better depths. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 173 CONSTRUCTION Pool walls (Fig. 141) may be constructed of brick or concrete. Brick walls should be one and one-half brick thick, coated on the inside with a Portland cement mortar in which some water- proofing should be incorporated. The bricks should be laid in a waterproofed cement mortar. Concrete walls should be six inches thick, consisting of five inches of reinforced concrete and a one-inch finish coat. A waterproofing material should be incorporated both in the general mix and in the finish coat, or a damp-proofing and bonding paint applied to the rough surface before the finish coat is applied. Pool bottoms will depend on the size of the pool and the char- acter of the soil. They should have a base of cinders or crushed stone, to prevent heaving, on which should be laid a slab of five inches of waterproofed reinforced concrete with a finish coat of one inch. If concrete walls are to be built the reinforcing iron should be long enough to turn up. POOL COPING The coping may be of good hard brick laid on edge, or on what is called row-lock fashion; this is much to be preferred to the cut limestone or cement coping. The gray sandstone (Fig. 140) to be had in the vicinity of Phila- delphia is an excellent stone for this purpose, using either dressed or selected flat pieces, laid quarry face, uniform thickness, using one through cross stone alternately with two pieces showing a joint through the center. The coping or curb should never stand more than four inches above the surrounding grade; the closer the coping level is to the garden grade the more pleasing will be the appearance. A sod edge extending to the pool has a softness and a natural appearance which have much to commend it. When a sod edge is desired the side walls of the pool should be beveled back to give as much depth as possible to the soil around the edge for the proper support of the turf. Under some conditions boulders around the margin are pleasing, particularly when the position is somewhat shaded, and ferns and other shade enduring plants may be planted between the boulders. 174 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING THE BIRD BATH Fig. 1 38. " The bird bath attracts the birds to the confines of the garden, enlivening the scene by the touch of life, color and song." See page 172 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 175 176 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING GARDEN POOL WITH WATER LILIES Fig. 140. " Pools are at their best when placed in the center of the garden or at the end of a vista down a garden walk or broad turf area." See pages 172, 173, 179 178 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING WATER SUPPLY AND DRAINAGE The pool should be connected with the general water supply, if practicable, and a drain provided (Fig. 141) so that the pool may easily be emptied, cleaned and refilled. The most economical and practical method to arrange for the overflow and drainage is to have a standpipe with a ground beveled end to fit in a socket set at the low point of the pool. The size of the pipe will depend on the amount of water, but, for ordinary purposes, a one and one-half inch pipe is sufficient to carry off the overflow. To drain the pool it is only necessary to remove the standpipe. Another method of providing for the overflow and drainage is to have a con- cealed standpipe (Fig. 142) built into the end wall of the pool. When the water rises to the top of the standpipe at A, it overflows. To drain, the stand- pipe is removed through a concealed opening at B. Where the drain is controlled by a valve, the valve should be set in a small box with an iron cover set flush with the grade. From a point immediately outside the walls of the pool the water may be carried off by a three-inch terra cotta ' P The appearance of the pool will be greatly improved by placing an inch of clean pebbles over the bottom. and drainage. GARDEN POOLS WITH FOUNTAIN HEADS Oftentimes garden pools are placed at the ends of the gardens fed from a fountain head placed in a vertical wall. The construction of such pools should be similar to that already outlined. The vertical wall should rise above the wall enclosing the garden to emphasize the feature. Fountains and pools so located should be provided with a good background, preferably evergreens of a dark shade; the Red Cedar and similar types are admirable for the purpose. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 179 PLANTING NEAR GARDEN POOLS The planting near garden pools should include some bright colored flowering plants in positions where they will reflect all the glory of their color on the surface of the water, for the pool is a delightful outdoor mirror, reflecting all its environment with a soft- ness that is most charming. PLANTS IN THE POOL The garden pool is not complete, nor affording one of its greatest pleasures, if it does not support some Water Lilies (Fig. 140). In tightly built pools it is necessary to plant the Lilies in tubs. A very economical and satisfactory tub may be provided by cutting in two an old vinegar or liquor barrel. The soil for the proper support of the Lilies should consist of a good loam well enriched with decomposed cow manure, equal to one-fifth of the entire bulk. On top of this place two inches of bar sand. The tubs should be set to a depth that will allow about six inches of water over the soil. THE PLANTS For the average garden pool a selection from the many varieties obtainable of hardy and tender Nymphaeas will be found most satisfactory. These may be planted just as they start into growth, usually about May 1 in the vicinity of Philadelphia; at that time all danger of frost is over and even the tender kinds may be safely set out. Only sufficient fresh water need be supplied to the pool to provide for that lost through evaporation. The Nelumbiums are very handsome, of easy culture and well suited to large pools. Other good aquatic plants are the Water Hyacinth, Water Snowflake, Papyrus or Umbrella Plant. The hardy varieties may be left in the pool all Winter; but they require a protection of leaves, with evergreen boughs or boards over them to keep the leaves in place. FISH It is well to stock garden pools with goldfish to destroy mos- quito larvas, and to add the requisite touch of life and color. SWIMMING POOLS The loss of so many of the old-time swimming holes has developed a demand for the artificial swimming pool. 180 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 143. Swimming pool within the garden area. Gray sandstone coping to match the walls and steps Such pools may often be placed within the garden area (Fig. 143). The construction should be the same as that outlined for smaller pools, care being taken to waterproof the walls, not only from the standpoint of keeping the water within the pool, but to keep the moisture from outside from seeping through and discoloring the walls. The swimming pool may be incorporated in the flower garden as a wading pool or made sufficiently deep at one end to allow of diving, running from two to three feet deep at one end to from seven to eight feet deep at the other. Swimming pools should be provided with a ladder to assist in leaving the pool at the deep end. A removable ladder is best for a combination garden and swimming pool. Rings should be supplied at intervals along the edge of the pool and a rope run through, so that bathers may grasp same for support when required. WATER SUPPLY Should the water supply come from a spring or stream on the premises it will be necessary to have a valve or plug to shut off the supply at the intake. When using water from a stream it is advis- ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 181 able to have a forebay set at one side and the pipe run from that to the pool. The forebay or well is built along the stream to prevent leaves, sand and debris from getting into the pipe. This is essential, regardlesss as to what method is adopted for conveying the water to the pool, either by gravity, ram, gas engine, electric pump or gasoline engine. As swimming pools must be emptied frequently in order to cleanse them, a small electric pump may be introduced, where the power is at -hand, and the water from the pool connected to the garden pipe line and so used for watering, thus conserving the general supply. GARDEN SEATS The value of the seat as a garden feature has long been recog- nized. A seat affords a comfortable and delightful resting place to those who would walk or work within the garden. Seats should be placed on the axis of walks, in niches formed by planting, or in the enclosing garden wall (Fig. 144) or hedge, and roofed over if only in the most fragile way. Where practicable, seats should be placed where they will com- mand a good view of the garden (Fig. 145) or of some portion of the garden or its surroundings. A novel seat (Fig. 146) is sometimes built on the axis of inter- secting walks, consisting of two walls seven feet high, built in the shape of a cross, with the seats placed in each corner formed by the walls. With such a resting place one may always select a retreat sheltered from sun or wind, as desired, regardless of time of day or the quarter in which the wind happens to be. For greatest comfort wooden seats are best. They may be had in great variety and to suit any taste or need. Stone or artificial stone seats are more ornamental, but for real use are not as practical as those of wood. Stone seats should have a stone or concrete foundation, otherwise they will soon get out of level. When purchasing artificial stone seats it is advisable to select those of simple design rather than those overlaid with ornament. GARDEN HOUSES The location and placing of garden houses and pergolas should always be considered when planning the garden and not as an after consideration. 182 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 144.-WELL PLACED GARDEN SEAT WITH COVERING See page 181 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 183 184 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 146. A unique design for a sheltered garden seat to be placed on the axis of walks or in an isolated position commanding a pleasing vista. It is always possible to find a section . sheltered from sun or wind. See page 181 Although space is not usually available in a small garden for a garden or tea house, yet quite often a space can be found sufficient to make a little break outside the line; here it may be set in a niche, thus providing ease of access and possibly greater seclusion. It is essential that such features be placed on the most dominant axis of the garden, as a terminal feature, or at one corner with a balancing feature in the opposite corner. In this location a covered house is more desirable and affords more protection. In open topped houses of pergola construction twigs and leaves are constantly falling from the overhanging vines so that, where it is desired to serve tea occasionally in the garden house, the closed top construc- tion is preferable. If the garden adjoins the residence the garden house should be built to conform with the architecture of the house; if isolated from the house the design may be one that will suit the individual taste and requirement (Figs. 147 and 147 A). The rustic house, built of Red Cedar, lends itself to the greatest diversity. Garden houses with but one open side should have a southern exposure, pre-eminently when there is a pretty outlook in that direc- tion. Such a house will be found a delightful retreat in Autumn, where one may be sheltered from the cold winds and enjoy the view under most delightful conditions. The floor of the garden house should be of enduring material, ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 185 186 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING F" L. ^N At Plan and elevation for Fig. 147. See pages 184, 185 such as flagstone, slate, brick, or tile; and, for permanency of con- struction, should be set on a concrete base four inches deep with a sub-base of stone or cinders. An inch of bar sand should be placed over the concrete as a cushion. The old Dutch tile size, eight inches by eight inches by two inches, with a brick texture, makes a very satisfactory floor with a border of brick on the outside. Garden houses should be set close to the ground and should not be more than twelve inches above the garden grade. A six-inch elevation, requiring a single step, is most hospitable in appearance. Fig. 147A. Plan for a garden house, shingle or tile roof. Woodwork of aged Oak, oil finish and flooring of flat stones. See page 184 188 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PERGOLAS Garden houses of closed top construction are preferable to those of the pergola style within the garden. Pergolas used in the garden should be treated as terminal features (Fig. 148) or as covering walks leading to substantial terminals. Then the lights and shadows from the overhead construction (Fig. 149), with its covering of Roses and vines,, are very delightful. Pergolas may be of wood, brick, stone or concrete construction, depending largely on the style of the garden enclosures, architecture of the house, and the design and general surroundings of the garden. Pergolas built of wood may be of a rustic nature, using wood with the bark on, or constructed of planed wood, stained or painted. For pergolas of a rustic nature Red Cedar is the best material to use. For those constructed with planed wood, White Pine or Cypress are best. The high cost of White Pine makes it almost prohibitive. California Red Wood and Douglas Spruce are suitable for this purpose. The cost of these latter two is more moderate than that of either Cypress or Pine. If the columns are of wood they should be set in concrete (Fig. 150), first coating the wood that is imbedded in the concrete with a tar paint. If the posts are set in the ground, that part in the earth should always be coated with tar. If rustic posts are used the bark should be stripped from their lower portions before placing them in the ground. When setting posts in concrete, allow the concrete to come a little above grade (Fig. 150) with the top beveled so that the water can not seep down between it and the post. Treat logs with kerosene, to preserve the bark and protect it against the ravages of borers, which tunnel under the bark and soon loosen it. Pieces selected for the uprights should not be less than eight inches at the base, preferably twelve. Clearance space under the cross pieces should not be less than eight feet and the breadth from center to center of posts for this height, assuming a twelve-inch column, should be eight feet two inches, making the clearance between posts seven feet two inches, just ten inches less than the height. Always avoid making the width greater than the height; for good proportion the reverse is always better. Fig. 148. Plan for a pergola as a terminal feature, situated at the corner of the garden outside of the enclosing hedge, the two end sections being on the axis of the boundary walk. See page 188 QE) 190 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 149. The lights and shadows from the overhead construction of the pergola, with its covering of Roses and vines, is delightful. See page 188 ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 191 If turned columns are used their height should be eight or nine times the diameter and the lintels should be of two three-inch by ten-inch pieces, notched over the cap. The rafters (Fig. 151) should be three inches by eight inches, notched over the lintels. For the better support of vines, additional pieces should be placed on top of the rafters, running at right angles to the same. These pieces may be one and one- eighth inches by two and three-quarter inches; or of shingling lath, planed down, which reduces them to about three-quarters of an inch by two and three-eighths inches. The rafters (Figs. 151-153) should have a projection of from eighteen inches to thirty inches and should be cut to a good bold outline. The caps should always be covered with light sheet lead (Fig. 151) neatly tacked around the edge. When stone is used for the support of the superstructure the columns or piers should not be less than twenty-two inches, and these should stand on a foundation twenty-eight inches square, which will allow of a three-inch projection all the way around. The stones should be laid up in cement mortar and, where pointed, the pointing should conform to the pointing of the house, if the pergola is adjacent thereto. An effective method of laying up the stone work is to rake out the mortar joints to a depth of two to three inches; this will give a deep shadow and form a friendly sup- .^ porting ledge for the vines. r^J^T Cap stones should be of the CTjoIumn same stone as that used in the t piers, flat and hammer dressed, without projection, and set flush ith the stone work below. It I , . T I v . T'XA^ci lor'Oar Con ' ^U ;. . -j ~"\ *~ ' cn-fe- Fig. 150. Detail for construction of wooden columns on cement base. See page 188 Fig. 151. Detail for construction of rafters on wooden columns. See note above PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING i- 1 L^UILJLU H , 1 r-ri i i h~i h~Ti I Mil I f! -- 1 'i J k ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 193 Fig. 153. Detail for construction of raf- ters on brick piers. Note the stone cap. See also page 191 is not necessary that the cap be all one piece; when con- structed of two or more pieces the joints should be pointed. It is essential to build an- chor bolts in the top of the columns (Fig. 152) to secure the lintels. These bolts should have a four-inch flat iron plate on the bottom to prevent the bolt from being pulled out of place when tightening the nut at the top. Piers or columns constructed of brick should be of the dark shades; Harvard, Sayre and Fisher, or tapestry brick, are all suit- able kinds. They may be laid up with either a broad mortar joint or reveal joints, raking out the mortar for a depth of two to three inches. Brick piers are improved by having a base and cap (Fig. 153) either of cut stone or of brick laid on end with a quarter- inch projection at the bottom and edgewise, set flush with the sides of the piers at the top. There are times when light brick must be used to conform with the house ; but light bricks are anemic looking for pergolas and should be used only when unavoidable. Stucco columns (Fig. 154) may be built on tile, as it is substantial and economical. Stucco piers should be built on a foundation of stone or concrete projecting beyond the line of the tile. Twelve- inch tile is about the minimum size to use, as it is difficult to hold a smaller size plumb when building. FLOORS Pergola floors should be built with a view to permanency. The foundation should consist of eight or twelve inches of clean cinders wet and thoroughly compacted, or of equal depth of crushed stone on which should be laid a Concrete slab four inches thick, composed of one part Portland cement to two of sharp sand and five of crushed one and one-half inch stone, thoroughly tamped. On this place a cushion of one-inch bar sand. Such a foundation should be provided for brick, slate, cement or stone paving. If concrete is not used in the foundations the cinders are best with the sand cushion placed 194 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING directly on top of them. All paving should have a slight fall; an eighth or a quarter of an inch to the foot is sufficient. This, will prevent surface water from collecting. If brick, stone or slate is used for paving the joints should be pointed with a cement mortar to prevent grass and weeds growing in the interstices. It is seldom practical to successfully grow turf under pergolas, as the shade from the overhanging vines becomes too dense. On open terraces such a treatment is satisfactory and picturesque. The cement finished floor is the least desirable of all. It has a harsh, mechanical finish which does not fit in with soft, responsive sur- roundings of the garden. If cement is used much of the glare may be reduced and the texture improved by tinting it. Lamp black and the red mortar stains are used for the purpose. They should be applied in the finish coat, and that rather sparingly, or the efficiency of the cement will be much impaired. Cement paving should have expansion joints cut at intervals to prevent cracking. A cement surface will have a better appearance if it is cut up into small rectangular blocks, either square or oblong in form. . The color of the timber superstructure will be largely influenced by that of the house; when adjacent to the house the color adopted should conform to the residence. White may always be used with safety and will intensify the shades of green leafage by contrast. There are various shades of brown obtainable, from the tint resulting from the use of creosote " oil grade one " to the almost black shade of Van Dyke brown. These latter colors are especially attractve in combination with the brick or stone substructure. COLOR OF WOODEN GARDEN FEATURES The color of wooden garden features is a subject well worth considerable thought. White paint is used more frequently than any other and, although pleasing to the eye when the foliage is on the plants, it is most glaring and cold looking in the Winter season. Shades of green are good but do not afford sufficient contrast. On the whole, shades of brown and weathered oak tints will give the greatest satisfaction. ARCHITECTURAL FEATURES OF THE GARDEN 195 , 96 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING mm HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 197 CHAPTER IX HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS PERENNIAL BORDERS Of the many ways in which the cultivation of flowers is under- taken none is so popular as the " mixed " or " hardy " border (Fig. 155). Such borders are seen on nearly every property and occupy different and varied positions. They may be planted in front of shrubbery belts (Fig. 156), in the kitchen garden (Fig. 159), along sides of walks (Fig. 165), and against walls and buildings (Fig. 157). LOCATION OF HARDY BORDERS It is to be regretted that hardy borders are usually placed to the rear of the house. Although some perennials do have a short season of bloom, and others are not provided with pleasing foliage, even with these deficiencies, if the selection of plants be carefully made, borders may be so planted that they will be attractive all through the season. On small places particularly, the flowers should be in the front, much as they are in the cottage gardens of England, where borders along walks and fences are so attractively treated. In these plantings it is obvious that the floral arrangement is given preference to the outline of the beds and this is as it should be. Irregular beds of meaningless outline should be avoided and the simplest forms adopted. AVOID BORDERS NEXT TO A HEDGE Perennial borders should never be planted against a hedge; it is preferable to leave about two or three feet between the hedge and the bed. Many plantings are ruined after the first year or two by the roots of hedge plants which grow apace in the enriched soil of the flower borders. TURF EDGE FOR BEDS When borders are placed along walks it is advisable to leave at least eighteen inches of turf (Fig. 166) between the bed and the walk. It is difficult to mow and trim a narrower strip. 198 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE" GARDENING BORDERS ALONG A FENCE A very satisfactory arrangement of beds along a fence (Fig. 158) is to have a narrow bed, say two feet wide, for the taller growing varieties right against the fence, then a turf strip, two and one-half or three feet between this and a larger bed on the lawn side. This will afford a charming vista and give more variety to the scene. BORDERS IN THE VEGETABLE GARDEN The vegetable garden (Fig. 159) may be much improved by the introduction of perennial borders along the walks which bisect it and also along the outer walks. It is not necessary to sacrifice, to any great extent, the utilitarian side of the garden for this esthetic feature, as the beds may be made quite narrow (Fig. 160). From four to five feet is a desirable width and will afford an area suscepti- ble of very pleasing treatment. It is well to give character to bor- ders of this kind by planting tall flowering shrubs at the corners formed by the intersection of the walks and at the outside corners. WIDTH OF BORDERS The width of the borders will vary somewhat according to location. In the open, where it is practical to reach beds from both sides, they may be made six feet wide. In positions where they can only be reached from one side the width should not exceed four feet; three feet is preferable. PREPARATION OF BEDS In itself the word " hardy " is suggestive that permanency should be the first consideration in the planting of such a border, so that with but simple care the plants will continue for years. It is essen- tial, therefore, that thorough preparation of the soil be made before planting. Two feet of good soil, well enriched with plant food, should be provided for borders. Well rotted manure, finely ground bone and well pulverized sheep manure, in equal parts by weight, are good fertilizers for perennials. TIME TO PLANT Very early Spring, just as the plants are starting into growth, is the most favorable season for planting the majority of perennials. Do not plant in wet soil; it is better to wait until the ground is fairly dry. In some localities the Spring season is very short and uncertain; this may call for planting to be done in the Fall. Plants HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 199 Fig. 156. Hardy Phlox in a border planting in front of shrubbery. See page 197 ' *' ~/*ii"^'^<~f^ '^^ ?^ Fig. 157. Hardy Chrysanthemums in a border along a wall. See page 197 200 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 158. Plan for perennial borders along a fence and at the corner of a lawn. a: <*=-= E-/H In the bed along the fence plant high growing perennials and the lower growing kinds in the outer bed. See page 198 moved in the Fall should be well protected by a mulch so that the frost will not lift them out. SUMMER CARE BgJ Slimmer care of perennials will consist principally of frequent cultivation so as to allow a full circulation of air and to keep down the weeds. Tall growing plants should be staked so that the borders will present a neat appearance. Staking should be done as the plants grow, and not at the last moment when the weight of foliage and flowers has made it impossible to give proper support. To get the best result with hardy borders they should be gone over every year so that some of the very rampant plants, such as Coreopsis, can be kept in check. It is usually the late blooming varieties which need more frequent division and transplanting. Spring blooming plants flower mostly from root crowns or buds perfected the preceding year; the Fall blooming plants from the numerous new stems produced during the growing season. Some of the strong growing Fall bloomers lose the original crown every year, leaving many side shoots which spread rapidly through the borders. Plants of this type should be dug up and replanted, setting back just a few of the strongest roots. This will insure larger and better blossoms and more kindly consideration of neighboring plants. ARRANGEMENT OF PLANTS IN HARDY BORDERS The arrangement of plants in the hardy border (Fig. 161) should be with a view to color effect and sequence of bloom. The beds should be interesting from early Spring to late Fall. The most difficult plants to handle successfully with a view to good color effect are those with magenta and mauve shades. It is safe to separate these from conflicting shades with white and pale yellow. The white must be used sparingly, however, as it is the most conspicuous color in the combination. The scarlet shades are the high lights in the garden and we cannot place magentas or blues too close to the scarlets with satisfactory results. It is better to pass from orange and yellow to blue. HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 202 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING m^ N SO 1 pr/n: Fig. 160. Showing an arrangement of perennial borders surrounding a vegetable garden. See page 198 HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 203 204 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING To get a good color scheme and sequence of bloom it is well to make a plan of the beds first and figure out the spaces and the quantities, such as has been done on the plans illustrated. To facilitate this work a list of plants to be used, arranged according to season of bloom, height and color, will be of great help. BORDER BEDS SHOULD NOT BE GRADUATED EVENLY AS TO HEIGHT It is a mistake to plant all the rear row with tall plants, the middle rows with medium growing ones, and the border with low varieties. More consideration should be given to the profile or, as the artist would say, the " sky line." To obtain the most pleasing effects with perennials plant so that the taller varieties (Fig. 162) will stand out boldly and not be held up on both sides by some other tall kind. Set off the Larkspurs (Fig. 162), Holly- hocks (Fig. 163), or Foxgloves by some lower growing kind next to them, and show the medium growing varieties to better advantage by introducing tall kinds for contrast. BACKGROUND FOR BORDERS Where space permits of long borders of good width the question of a suitable background (Fig. 164) should not be entirely over- looked. Good supporting growth adds greatly to the charm and attractiveness of perennial plantings. For this reason it is well to introduce shrubs or evergreens at regular intervals in borders along walks. These will strengthen the planting and add to the character. ROSE CHAINS IN PERENNIAL BORDERS Another pleasing addition to the perennial border is the introduction of cedar posts at intervals of from ten to twelve feet, through which, at a point about ten inches from the top of the post, a chain of one and one-half inch links should be run. Plant a climbing Rose at each post, to form a pillar of green, and train the leaders along the chain to form a festoon. ARCHES OVER WALKS Rose arches (Fig. 165) are pleasing to tie together border beds along walks and increase the apparent distance. These should not be planted too closely together; fifteen to twenty feet apart is the most satisfactory distance. PLANTING IN CLUMPS It is not advisable to dot single plants of favorite varieties all through the borders. Rather, have some good clumps (Fig. 166) HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 205 at one, two, or several places in the bed. Too much stress cannot be laid on this point. Keep varieties together; do not scatter them too much. The effect is better; it helps greatly in the care of the beds, and allows of keeping in much closer touch with individuals. The size of the clumps will depend greatly on the area of the borders and the location. Care should be taken not to plant large clumps of varieties which have a very limited blooming season, such as the Oriental Poppy, or kinds with poor foliage, such as Anthemis tinc- toria. Frequent small clumps of such kinds are better with Gladioli planted among them for later bloom. BULBS AND TUBERS Greater use should be made of bulbs and tubers in the hardy borders. They are inexpensive and should otherwise be considered from the standpoint of ease of culture, color, and succession of bloom. It is possible, by a careful selection, to secure a sequence of bloom lasting through the entire season. Bulbs and tubers may be generally divided into two classes; those known as hardy bulbs, such as Daffodils and Crocuses, which may be allowed to remain in the border from season to season; and tender bulbs, such as Gladioli and Dahlias, which must be lifted and wintered under cover. These classes may again be divided into Spring, Summer and Fall blooming kinds. SPRING BULBS Of the Spring kinds nearly all are suitable for garden culture. Among the first to bloom, usually as early as February, we have Winter Aconite (Eranthis hyemalis), Snowdrops and Crocuses, followed by Daffodils, early and late Tulips and Hyacinths. The late blooming Tulips, such as the Darwins, Cottage and Parrot types, deserve more general recognition in our garden beds. They afford magnificent coloring and have good long stems, making them suitable for use as cut flowers. SUMMER FLOWERING BULBS Of the Summer flowering bulbs and tubers the Gladiolus and Dahlia are the best known. Gladioli may be had in very choice colors and are unexcelled for planting among Peonies and other herbaceous plants with heavy foliage and but a very short blooming season. Gladioli may be 206 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING ' HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 207 Fig. 163. Hollyhocks in a border planting. See page 204 208 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 164. This early flowering border of Iris, Peonies, Foxgloves and English Daisies illustrates the advantages of a background. The Funkia cordifolia, as a center feature at the corner, is well placed. See page 204 HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 209 210 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING planted weekly from May to July, and will afford a succession of bloom through the Summer. Dahlias given but ordinary treatment in the garden will repay one with a wealth of bloom in the late Summer and Fall months. Varieties may be had in many forms and colors to suit the individual taste. Plant young plants in preference to tubers and give them an open, sunny position. The plants should be kept upright and tidy by the use of supports. Tuberous rooted Begonias may be introduced into the shaded portions of the garden and will afford a variety of gay colors in large and beautiful flowers. They are more effective when planted together in a bed rather than scattered through the garden. Better treat- ment can be afforded them in this way as they need a light but rich soil for the best results. The tubers should be started indoors to ensure early bloom. The Summer Hyacinth (Hyacinthus candicans) is a splendid Summer flowering bulb to scatter through the borders in clumps of five or more. The bell-shaped flowers appear on long stems, three to five feet high; there are as many as thirty flowers on a stem. Many of the Lilies are hardy and may be successfully introduced into the borders. Groups of L. auratum (the gold-banded Lily of Japan); L. elegans, a lovely, upright, orange-colored type; L. speciosum, a Japanese variety, and L. tigrinum, the old-fashioned Tiger Lily, are the best for border use. The Tuberose is an old-fashioned favorite, rather stiff, it is true, but very fragrant and beautiful. By careful management, starting to plant as soon as the conditions are favorable in the Spring and continuing until July, a succession of bloom may be had all Summer. The Eremurus, or Giant Asphodel, might well be classed among Summer flowering bulbs, as it has a stout, fleshy root with a central crown from which the rootlets radiate. Well drained land and plenty of plant food are requisites. The flowers come on tall stalks sometimes eight to ten feet high. The flowers form on the upper part of the stalk and continue to form as the stem lengthens. Ere- murus needs considerable room in the border, so should only be used where extensive space is to be had. It should be set in the Autumn, planted at least six inches deep. AUTUMN BULGES Of the Autumn flowering bulbs, Colchicum autumnale, the Meadow Saffron or Autumn Crocus, is perhaps best known. The HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 211 flowers very much resemble Crocuses. The bulbs should be planted in July and August, in clumps, not too set looking, in the front of the borders. They may be had in white, lilac and blue. The Red Hot Poker plant, or Tritoma, may be classed among the Autumn flowering bulbous plants worthy of a place in all hardy borders. The orange, coral red and yellow flowers are very strik- ing. Some of the newer kinds have early, free, and continuous blooming qualities, and succeed in an ordinary garden soil. Tri- tomas are not altogether hardy in some locations and, for safety, should be lifted in the Fall and wintered under cover, buried in sand in a cool cellar or shed. The Montbretia is a hardy bulbous plant that should be in every flower border. The flowers are brightly colored, mostly orange red, and on stems from two to three feet high. They should be planted in an open, sunny position. Bulbs may be set in the Autumn or very early Spring. ANNUALS IN THE BORDERS Very often the effect of perennial beds is marred by allowing too much bare soil to show, particularly along the edges. This may be overcome by planting cover plants, or in the new border by planting an assortment of annuals. As hardy cover plants the Candytuft, Creeping Phlox, early blue Phlox, Plumbago, Rock Cress, and many similar varieties, are splendid. Of the annuals many kinds are suitable for border planting; among the best are Sweet Sultan ; Silene, Coreopsis, Larkspur, Balsam, Zinnia, Dianthus, Eschscholt- zia, Aster, Godetia, Clarkia, Snapdragon, Calendula and Poppy. Annuals are very easily grown. If wanted early, the seeds should be started indoors in flats. Many kinds may be quickly and easily grcfwn by sowing in the open ground when danger of frost is over. Really, the material for hardy beds is inexhaustible and a selec- tion may be made for a constant succession of bloom through the entire season. If they are planned carefully, remembering that it is the contents of the beds and not the outline that is attractive, and with the idea of permanency before us, such borders will con- tinue for years with but little care. ROSE GARDENS Every one knows how satisfactory the Rose is for outdoor decoration and for cutting, but it does not receive all the considera- 212 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Fig. 166. Better effects may be secured in hardy border through planting in clumps rather than scattering single plants all through the border. Note turf edge between walk and bed. See pages 197, 204 HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 213 tion it deserves in our gardens. No garden is complete without some of this queen among flowers. ROSE GARDEN DESIGNS For the best effect Roses should be planted in mass and in this way they can be shown to greater advantage in a garden of formal outline. The design (Fig. 167) may vary greatly, depending on the garden location, individual taste, and the space at hand, but the beds should always be narrow with larger turf area. Gardens built on several levels should have one level reserved for Roses (Fig. 136). Gardens built all on the same level should have the Roses in the outside beds with the perennial beds toward the center. POSITION The Rose garden should be on high ground in an open situation that will allow an abundance of sunshine and a free circulation of air (Fig. 168). The garden should not be too close to large trees, the roots of which extend for some distance. A southeastern expo- sure is the best. BEDS Experience has taught us that Roses thrive best in narrow beds not more than twelve inches wide, (though up to three feet is prac- tical,) with a turf path from two feet six inches to three feet wide between each bed (Fig. 167). The plants should be placed from twenty-four to thirty inches apart. It is a great mistake to plant Roses too far apart, a good average distance being twenty-four inches. The broad turf area forms a pleasing setting for the Roses, quite in contrast with the usual broad beds, which are unsightly, impractical for the proper care of the plants, and a source of great aggravation when gathering the flowers. PREPARATION OF BEDS The beds should be very carefully prepared if the best results are to be obtained. This is even more important than a good selection of varieties. Roses like fertile, well drained soil, at least eighteen inches deep. If the soil is very heavy, affording poor drainage to the plants, the beds should be dug out deep and crushed stone or cinders placed in the bottom to carry off the excess. Although Roses should be in well drained soil they do not thrive vigorously 214 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING HARDY BORDERS AND ROSE GARDENS 215 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig 167 Fig. 167. A design for a Rose garden. Narrow beds with larger turf areas. See pages 213, 216 Key No. Quart. Variety flO ' Vl t^Common Name 1 8 Spiraea Thunbergii WWf~ '"'T^now Garland 2 8 Rosa rugosa __ Japanese Rose 3 10 Rosa Baby Rambler C-^X^l^X^ZLt /7*y>***Everblooming Dwarf Rose 4 8 Ligustrum lucidumC^/vc*-*^'' ^**4*** . Jig ^ .3 ! fra | | S 3 I I 2 la 2 x ? seals'! % I f ^" HHifsH&S !K ! !!?! I^El^E>>HwE^|H|SE(2o(Slw e I > s i I s B || & ' I 1 iy 1 1 Hi ^ 2 M 2 M 2" " t ^ a " " * ""^ ^ ^ OOOvOMP) PLANTING PLAN "A" On this plan, representing a width of 80 ft. by a depth of 200 ft. stand two semi-detached houses. The entire boundary is arranged in plantations of shrubbery and are of such varieties as will give a se- quence of bloom from early Spring until late Fall, followed by a little interest of color in the berry bear- ing plants, such as the Barberry, Coral Berry, Snowberry and Cotoneaster. The perennials are placed along the base of the house, and the varieties suggested, while limited, will provide a goodly quantity of cut flowers for table decoration. The front lawns may be treated as one lawn to advantage by omit- ting numbers 21 and 29, while the rear, for reasons of privacy, is better enclosed by the shrub borders. A small vegetable garden is placed at the rear, separated by a hedge, which will also form a back- ground to the plantations in front of it. Between the rear lawn and the vegetable garden a small arbor is suggested in which seats may be placed at the sides. Either climbing Roses, Clematis or annual vines should be planted as the decoration for the arbor. For laundry purposes a movable drier is indicated in the center of the grass plot. This is easily put up and taken down as occasion may require, and is infinitely better than the unsightly posts. On the scale given below the plan 16 equals 8 ft.; 32 equals 16 ft.; 64 equals 32 ft. 234 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLAN " B " Wo. Quart. Variety I 3 Pyracantha coccinea Leland 2 5 Abelia grandiflora 3 3 Cornus florida rubra 4 3 Cotoneaster Simonsii s 3 Enkianthus japonica 6 Azalea ledifolium var. leucanthemum I I Mahonia aquifolia Cedrus Deodora 9 3 Laurustinus Tinus IO 3 Cotoneaster Augustifolia II 3 Nandina japonica 12 7 Iris Kaempferi 13 I Camellia japonica 14 s Paeonia Festiva Maxima 15 i Spiraea Van Houtei 16 8 Phlox G. A. Strohlein 17 i Viburnum tomentosum 18 8 Delphinium hybridum 19 I Amygdalus nana 20 8 Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 21 I Deutzia Lemoinei 22 23 24 25 3 IO 6 6 Hydrangea Hortensis (blue) Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes Thalictrum Dipterocarpum Eupatorium coelestinum 26 9 Chrysanthemum maximum 27 Robinia hispida 28 3 Abelia grandiflora 29 30 31 3 3 3 Mahonia japonica /) . Ilex crenata - v cA/t|,Jw>vLlc- Ilex crenata 32 33 3 3 Mahonia aquifolia Jasminum nudiflorum 34 8 Bocconia cordata 35 4 Ilex aquifolia 36 20 Abelia grandiflora 37 2 Taxus hibernica 38 Camellia japonica 39 I Ceanothus Gloire de Versailles 40 41 6 10 Paeonia rubro-plena Phlox Wm. Robinson 42 IO Delphinium hybridum 43 i Spiraea arguta 44 10 Iris Kaempferi 45 I Berberis purpurea 46 IO Chrysanthemum Henry Sesquier 47 I Forsythia viridissima 47 X IO Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 48 49 I 18 Syringa Mme. Lemoine Hypericum calcynum 50 4 Nandina japonica 51 5 Rhododendron Parsons Gloriosa 52 7 Aucuba japonica green 53 4 Genista juncea 54 55 8 Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Cedrus Deodara 56 Quercus coccinea 57 Cornus florida rubra 58 Ulmus americana 59 Cedrela sinensis Common Name Evergreen Thorn Hybrid Abelia Pink Dogwood Shiny leaved Cotoneaster Evergreen White Azalea Oregon Grape Himalayan Cedar Heavenly Bamboo Japanese Flag Camellia White Peony Van Houtte's Spiraea Orange Red Phlox Single Japanese Snowball Larkspur Flowering Almond Pink Phlox Lemoine's Deutzia White Chrysanthemum Meadow Rue Hardy Ageratum Shasta Daisy Moss Locust Hybrid abelia Japanese Evergreen Barberry Japanese Holly Japanese Holly Oregon grape Jasmine Plume Poppy English Holly Hybrid Abelia Irish Yew Camellia Red Peony Pink Phlox Larkspur Japanese Flag Purple Barberry Violet Rose Chry Rose Chrysanthemum Golden Bell Pink Phlox White Lilac Aaron's Beard Heavenly Bamboo Rose Bay Japanese Laurel Spanish Broom Hills of Snow Himalayan Cedar Scarlet Oak Pink Dogwood American Elm PLANTING PLAN "B" This plan provides for the possible treatment of a lot of 50 feet in width and 118 feet in depth over all, on which is situated a residence which leaves but a small space on either side between the side walls of the house and the party line fence. The rear and side lines on the back lawn are planted prin- cipally with broad-leaved ever- greens, so that the general effect will be pleasing through- out the year. Along the party lines speci- men shrubs are shown at equal intervals with perennials be- tween for the sake of tying the planting scheme together, and to add a little to the turf breadth between the shrubs. The plantation at the base of the porch consists of broad- leaved evergreens, including Abelia grandiflora, one of the most satisfactory of all the flowering evergreen shrubs . The foliage is excellent and the period of bloom continues from early Summer to late in the Fall. This plant is also sug- gested for the hedge along the front, with the corners and en- trance emphasized with the English laurel. 236 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Key No. Quan. I 47 KEY TO PLAN " C ' Variety Hybrid Tea Roses Oigus, Double white Crataegus, alba 1 lena Double red, Paul's Scarlet j i adiantifolia Abelia grandiflora Buddleia Veitchiana Bocconia cordata Delphinium hybridum Phlox Mrs. Jenkins Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Paeonia Festiva Maxima Spiraea Van Houttei Abelia grandiflora ' Mahonia aquifolia Aucuba japonica Cotoneaster Simonsii Mahonia japonica Juniperus hibernica Retinispora obtusa Thuyopsis dolobrata Retinispora squarrosa Veitchii Acer saccharum Cotoneaster Simonsii Mahonia japonica Aucuba japonica Abelia grandiflora Mahonia aquifolia Berberis Thunbergii Deutzia gracilis Spiraea Anthony Waterer Spiraea callosa alba Amygdalus fl. pi. rubra Coryopteris Mastacanthus Buddleia magnifies Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora Thalictrum dipterocarpum Aconitum Park's hybrids Anemone Queen Charlotte Iris Kaempferi Stokesia cyanea Iris Queen of May Paeonia Jeanne d'Arc Platycodon Mariesii Phlox Struthers Pentstemon barbatus Iris King of Iris Phlox Mrs. Jenkins Funkia lancifolia Chrysanthemum Henry Sesquier Paeonia Charlemagne's Campanula calycanthema Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes Paeonia lutea variegata Iris Kaempferi Platycodon Mariesii Stokesia cyanea Aquilegia caerulea Aconitum, Park's variety Anemone Queen Charlotte Pseonia Festiva Maxima Chrysanthemum Jardin des Plantes Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Campanula latifolia macrantha Paeonia Cytharee Iris pallida dalmatica Pentstemon barbatus Phlox Miss Lingard Common Name Hawthorn Maidenhair Tree Hybrid Abelia Butterfly shrub Plume Poppy Larkspur White Phlox Pink Phlox White Peony Van Houtte's Spiraea Hybrid Abelia Oregon Grape Japanese Laurel Shiny-leaved Cotoneaster Japanese Evergreen Barberry Irish Juniper Japanese Cypress Japanese Blue Cypress Sugar Maple Shiny-leaved Cotoneaster Japanese Evergreen Barberry Japanese Laurel Hybrid Abelia Oregon Grape Japanese Barberry Dwarf Duetzia Pink Spiraea Dwarf white Spiraea Flowering Almond Verbena Shrub Butterfly shrub Large-flowered Hydrangea Meadow Rue Monkshood Windflower Japanese Flag Stokes' Aster Flag Rose Colored Peony Chinese Bell Flower Cherry Red Phlox Beard Tongue Yellow Flag White Phlox Plantain Lily Violet Rose Shades White Peony Bell Flower White Chrysanthemum Pink Peony Japanese Flag Chinese Bellflower Stokes' Aster Columbine Monkshood Windflower White Peony White Chrysanthemum Pink Phlox Bellflower Flesh White Peony Blue Flag Beard Tongue White Phlox PLANTING PLAN "C" This scheme differs from the preceding in that the treat- ment in the rear is of formal outline. This garden is planted with an assortment of hardy perennials, and the whole is enclosed with hybrid Tea Roses. The diagram repre- sents a plot 50 ft. wide by 118ft. deep over all. On the transverse axis of the garden a Summer house is located. This little open area is necessary to provide a suit- able drying area for laundry purposes. The drier, however, is of a movable type and when not in use should be removed. The Summer house is sur- rounded by the Ginkgo, one of the most picturesque of trees. Small arches spanning the two entrances to the garden would be a desirable feature, and climbing Roses should be planted on either side of the arch, using Silver Moon, Dr. Van Fleet, Tausendschoen and Farquhar. The side line, west side, is planted in hardy perennials, with a flowering shrub at each end as a terminal feature. f On the eastern boundary line dwarf flowering shrubs are planted at equal intervals. The planting at the base of the house consists of broad- leaved evergreens. The hedge along the front is the silvery grey Japanese Cypress, with the green va- riety at the ends and en- trances for contrast and to emphasize those points. ^.tH? a^ S a bH a _g a g g ' 2 2 g^2 g sS^ M N r5 * WO l J ] ci < > ES^ jl 95 ^OSta J-s HU,00^, O W HI H M **> H N f> ^t i/}vO t^QO Ot O w M ro T}- vj\o t-- CO O\ O w ro TtinvO r^oo O\ O w N fO rfioo t^oo Os PLANTING PLAN "D" In this plan (50 ft. wide by 108 ft. deep over all) the plant- ing along the western bound- ary line consists entirely of flowering shrubs with specimen evergreen shrubs along the eastern fence line and at the side of the house, between which are placed hardy peren- nials to give a little color to the scene. The hedge along the front is Japanese Barberry, the most satisfactory dwarf growing shrub to be had. The foliage colors beautifully in the Fall and the berries are persistent for a long period. The ends and entrances are defined by the pyramidal Arborvitae. The formal treatment in the rear takes in the full width of the property and the laundry posts are set within the en- closure, on which climbing Roses are indicated. The Honeysuckle may be adopted as an alternative. To further disguise their utilitarian pur- pose, bird houses may be placed on top of them. Flowering shrubs are placed at the corners and entrance to give a little more character to the borders, and the balance of the beds are planted in an assortment of hardy perennials to give a sequence of bloom from Spring till Autumn. 240 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING - s* - ll 3s*s's|J I sj=il iPtS P-S fiM 1 i , jgS2tf83g S888$8;$8!8o82?<> JjW O M l*5tl'0 t~00 Oi O M N OO^WO t~M O PLANTING PLAN "E" In this scheme the treat ment is of formal charactei the only informal part bein in front of the porch, and th small plantation at the south west corner. The diagram rep resents a property 50 ft. wid by 108ft. deep over all. The stepping stone walk o; the west side is placed betwee: two borders of perennials an< leads to the enclosure at th rear. Shrubbery has been placei at intervals in the beds to lif them up and break the mo notony. This feature is con tinued along the eastern feno line, while at the base of th house the planting is confinec to the hardy perennials witl the exception of two ever greens placed at the ends o the beds. The plantation in front o the porch consists of an assort ment of conifers, in back o which a variety of vines an placed for color effect. Bulb; for Spring, followed by lov growing annuals, would givi an additional interest to thii plantation. The hedge along the front is the Hemlock Spruce, and ii should be kept at a height ol three to four feet. 242 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 178 Key No. Quon. Variety 1 7 Rhodotypos kerrioides 2 4 Hibiscus syriacus, single pink 3 1 6 Spiraea A. Waterer -" Lonicera fragrantissima Hydrangea paniculata (type) Spiraea Thungergii Buddleia Veitchiana Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora alba Lonicera Morrowi Spiraea A. Waterer Yucca filamentosa Acer saccharum Mahonia aquifolia Philadelphus coronarius Jasminum nudiflorum Desmodium penduliflorum Rhodotypos kerrioides Desmodium japonicum Abelia grandiflora Rhododendron album elegans Azalea Hinodegiri Rhododendron myrtifolium 23 Rhododendron John Walter 23^ Rhododendron rpseum elegans 24 Juniperus virginiana glauca 25 Abelia grandiflora 26 Forsythia suspensa 27 Lonicera Morrowi 28 Lonicera fragrantissima 29 Lonicera Morrowi 30 Forsythia suspensa 31 Abelia grandiflora 32 Juniperus Cannarti 33 i Spiraea Thunbergii 34 i Ligustrum Regelianum 35 Weigela Eva Rathke 36 Spiraea Van Houttei 37 Caryopteris mastacanthus 38 Syringa Marie Legraye 39 Buddleia Veitchiana 40 i Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora 41 Rhododendron Hybrids 42 Rhododendron Hybrids 43 Rhododendron Hybrids 44 Rhododendron Hybrids Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Phlox Rheinlander Hesperis matronalis Digitalis purpurea 49 i Aster amellus. Beauty of Ronsdorf 50 i Digitalis purpurea 51 Lonicera Morrowi 52 Lonicera Morrowi 53 Hydrangea paniculata (type) 54 Exochorda grandiflora Lonicera fragrantissima Annuals and Bedding Plants 57 i Juniperus Schottii 58 Desmodium penduliflorum 59 i Phlox Miss Lingard 60 i Gaillardia grandiflora 61 Hypericum aureum 62 Deutzia gracilis 63 i Chrysanthemum St. Illoria 64 i Phlox Elizabeth Campbell 65 i Phlox Von Lassburg 66 Kerria japonica, single 67 Rosa rugosa 68 s Spiraea Thunbergii Common Name White Kerria Rose of Sharon Dwarf Pink Spiraea Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Late Hydrangea Snow Garland Butterfly Plant Hills of Snow Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Dwarf Pink Spiraea Adam's Needle Sugar Maple Holly-leaved Barberry Mock Orange Yellow Jasmine Bush Clover White Kerria White Bush Clover Hybrid Abeli Whi r hite Rhododendron Japanese Evergreen Azalea Myrtle-leaved Rhododendron Crimson Rhododendron Pink Rhododendron Blue Cedar Hybrid Abelia Weeping Golden Bell Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Fragrant Honeysuckle Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Drooping Golden Bell Hybrid Abelia Cannart's Cedar Snow Garland Regel's Privet Dark Red Weigela Bridal Wreath Blue Spiraea Lilac Butterfly Plant Large-flowered Hydrangea Yellow Chrysanthemum Pink Phlox Rocket Foxglove Michaelmas Daisy Foxglove Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Panicled Hydrangea Pearl Bush Fragrant Honeysuckle Schott's Juniper Siebold's Desmodium Early White Phlox Blanket Flower St. John's Wort Slender Deutzia Pink Chrysanthemum Early Phlox Hardy Phlox Japanese Rose Wrinkled Japanese Rose Snow Garland PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 243 PLANTING PLAN. Fig. 178 COMPLETE HOME GROUND SURROUNDINGS Fig 1 78.-Property approximately 1 95 feet x 1 65 feet. A very complete scheme including alermis court garage greenhouse and coldframes The tennis court is enclosed by a pergola and affords a space for open air theatricals, the workroom of the greenhouse providing a dressing room for the same 244 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 179 Key No. Quan. Variety Populus fastigiata Populus fastigata Quercus palustris Fraxinus americana Acer saccharum Salisburia adiantifolia Acer polymorphum dissectum rubrum Thuya plicatum Juniperus elegantissima Leei Liquidambar styraciflua Viburnum tomentosum Lonicera fragrantissima Syringa, named varieties Hydrangea paniculata Philadelphus coronarius Rosa rugosa Buddleia Veitchiana Viburnum plicatum Lonicera Morrowi Abelia grandiflora Rhododendron album elegans Rhododendron roseum elegans Lonicera Morrowi Rosa rugosa Spiraea Van Houttei Spiraea Thunbergii Weigela Eva Rathke Philadelphus Lemoinei Spiraea Van Houttei Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Spiraea Thunbergii Abelia grandiflora Azalea Hinodegiri Azalea Hinodegiri Spiraea arguta Kerria japonica, single Iris Silver King Hypericum Moserianum Rosa multiflora Phlox divaricata Aquilegia flabellata nana alba Stokesia cyanea Iris pallida dalmatica Paeony Festiva maxima Aster amellus Beauty of Ronsdorf Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravere Paeony Richardson's grandiflora Delphinium formosum Dicentra spectabilis Helenium Hoopesii Veronica longifolia subsessilis Phlox Miss Lingard Kerria japonica, single Hesperis matronalis Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Weigela Eva Rathke Aquilegia chrysantha Phlox Rheinstrom Phlox Ardense Crete Syringa, named varieties Juniperus virginiana Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Lonicera Morrowi Hibiscus syriacus, single Philadelphus Mont Blanc Common Name Lombardy Poplars Lombardy Poplars Pin Oak American Ash Sugar Maple Maidenhair Tree Cut-leaved Japanese Maple Fern-leaved Arborvitae Golden Juniper Sweet Gum Single Japanese Snowball Early Bush Honeysuckle Lilacs Late Hydrangea Mock Orange Japanese Rose Butterfly Plant Japanese Snowball Bush Honeysuckle Hybrid Abelia White Rhododendron Pink Rhododendron Bush Honeysuckle Japanese Rose Drooping Spiraea Snow Garland Red Weigela Mock Orange Drooping Spiraea Large flowering Hydrangea Snow Garland Hybrid Abelia Japanese Azalea Japanese Azalea Hybrid Spiraea Yellow Kerria White Flag St. John's Wort Dwarf Japanese Rose Early Blue Phlox White Columbine Stokes' Aster Lavender Flag White Peony Michaelmas Daisy Red Chrysanthemum Peony Indigo Larkspur Bleeding Heart Early Sneezewort Speedwell Early Phlox Single Kerria Sweet Rocket Yellow Chrysanthemum Dark Red Weigela Yellow Columbine Pink Phlox Early White Phlox Lilac Red Cedar Pink Phlox Bush Honeysuckle Pink Rose of Sharon Mock Orange PLANTING PLAN Fig. 179.- Showing a good treatment of a property 50 feet x 150 feet, using broken flag- stones with mortar joints for the main walk and step- ping stone walk to the service quarters and the rear lawn. The service yard enclosed by hedge 246 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 180 A property 75 feet x 1 50 feet, providing space for flower and Rose garden, tea house, pool and garage. Entrance to the garage is arranged with two cement tracks, with turf between. Quan. Variety Common Name I 2 9 Juniperus virginiana Roses, Hybrid Tea (Standards) Red Cedar 3 4 125 350 Hybrid Tea Roses Ligustrum ovalifolium Everblooming Roses California Privet s 3 Spiraea Van Houttei Drooping Spiraea . J Key Nos. 6 9 22 28 38 63 1 g u ^ n Honcy-ucklc U)mceraMorrow ilNo.Plant9-5 6 5 5 3 3 j 7 I Magnolia acuminata Cucumber Tree 8 s Viburnum Opulus sterilis Snowball o IO Buddleia Veitchiana Butterfly Plant i 3 Biota orientalis conspicua Columnar Chinese Arborvitae 2 IO Desmodium japonicum Purple Bush Clover 3 6 Hydrangea quercifolia Oak-leaved Hydrangea 4 S Forsythia suspensa Drooping Golden Bell 5 i Red Siberian Crab Crab Apple 16 14 Dianthus barbatus Sweet William Bcrbrri-Thunbcrei fKeyNos -~ 17 18 J apanc"c Barberry 81 I No. Plants- 9 9 19 6 Deutzia Lemoinei Lemoine's Deutzia 2O 8 Phlox W. C. Egan Hardy Phlox 21 IO Iris Silver King White Flag 23 24 8 12 Rose Pink Baby Rambler Rose White Baby Rambler Everblooming Rose Everblooming Rose 25 6 Rose Hermosa Everblooming Rose 26 8 Rose Pink Baby Rambler Everblooming Rose 27 29 5 3 Rosa rugosa Lcnicera fragrantissima Japanese Rose Early Honeysuckle 30 8 Phlox Miss Lingard Early Phlox 32 5 Juniperus Sabina Savin Juniper 33 3 Taxus cuspidata Japanese Yew 34 I Larix europaea European Larch 35 Cornus florida rubra Pink Dogwood 36 2 Buxus arborescens (Globe; Globe-shaped Box 37 4 Taxus cuspidata Japanese Yew 39 i Magnolia conspicua White Magnolia 40 15 Hypericum Moserianum St. John's Wort 41 42 S 9 Forsythia suspensa Abelia grandiflora Drooping Golden Beh Hybrid Abelia 425 7 . Hydrangea radiata Silver-leaved Hydrangea 43 8 Xanthorriza apiifolia Yellow Root 44 6 Spiraea Thunbergii Snow Garland 44* 4 Syringa vulgaris Lilac 8 5 Apple, Grimes' Golden Philadelphus coronarius Mock Orange 47 9 Spiraea Margaritas Pink Spiraea 48 49 3 I Juniperus virginiana glauca Liquidambar styraciflua Blue Cedar Sweet Gum SO 5 Hydrangea paniciilata Late Hydrangea Si 9 (Enothera missouriensis Evening Primrose 52 10 Iris Blue Boy German Flag S3 9 Chrysanthemum St. Illoria Pink Chrysanthemum 54 6 Paeonia Van Houttei Crimson Peony 55 6 Funkia caerulea Plantain Lily 56 6 Phlox Diadem Hardy Phlox 57 3 Paeonia f estiva maxima White Peony 58 7 Delphinium chinense Chinese Larkspur 59 IO Iris pumila aurea Dwarf Flag 60 8 Spiraea Thunbergii Show Garland 61 62 65 5 9 Pyrus Maulei Juniperus Cannarti Phlox Eugene Danzanvilliers Pink Japanese Quince Pyramidal Cedar Lilac Phlox 66 12 Iris aurea Yellow Flag 67 6 Paeonia grandiflora Pink Peony 68 12 Iris pallida dalmatica Lavender Flac 69 8 Chrysanthemum Julia Lagravere Red Chrysanthemum ?o Annuals and Perennials 71 I Populus fastigiata Lombardy Poplar PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 240 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 181 A property 85 feet x 200 feet. Good arrangement for residence with kitchen wing toward the street and living-room, with a southeastern exposure, looking out on the lawn. The fountain and pool are the interesting features Key No. Quan. Variety Common Name I I Pinus austriaca Austrian Pine 2 3 5 4 Styrax japonica Syringa Marie Legray Japanese Styrax White Lilac 4 5 8 8 Weigela Eva Rathke Cotoneaster microphylla Dark Red Weigela Small-leaved Rose Box 6 7 6 9 Kerria japonica Buddleia Veitchiana Single Corchorus Butterfly Plant 8 9 I 12 Picea orientalis Abelia grandiflora Oriental Spruce Hybrid Abelia IO 8 Rhododendron Charles Dickens Crimson Rhododendron ii 10 Rhododendron album elegans White Rhododendron 12 3 Juniperus virginiana Red Cedar 13 12 Rhododendron maximum roseum Pink Rhododendron 14 15 7 8 Rhododendron Chas. Bagley Rhododendron Mrs. John Glutton Crimson Rhododendron White Rhododendron 16 i Cedrus Deodara True Cedar 18 9 8 Hibiscus syriacus, single pink Hydrangea paniculata Rose of Sharon Late Hydrangea 19 18 Buddleia Veitchii Butterfly Plant 20 12 Genista tinctoria Broom 21 II Spiraea Thunbergii Snow Garland 22 I Pinus Strobus White Pine 23 Cornus florida White Dogwood 24 25 26 27 28 12 6 8 ii Cercis japonica Hypericum Moserianum Hydrangea Otaksa Viburnum plicatum Spiraea A. Waterer Japanese Judas St. John's Wort Pink Large-flowering Hydrangea Japanese Snowball Dwarf Pink Spiraea 29 6 Forsythia suspensa Drooping Golden Bell 30 7 Syringa vulgaris Lilac 31 32 12 3 Desmodium penduliflorum Thuya Geo. Peabody Bush Clover Golden Arborvitae 33 7 Lonicera Morrowi Japanese Bush Honeysuckle 34 3 Tilia europaea European Linden 35 12 Rosa rubiginosa Sweet Brier Rose 36 5 Rosa rugosa, red Japanese Rose 37 38 12 4 Rosa, Baby Rambler white Kerria japonica Dwarf Everblooming Rose Single Corchorus 39 7 Spiraea Thunbergii Snow Garland 40 8 Buddleia Veitchiana Butterfly Plant 41 12 Hypericum Moserianum St. John's Wort 25 Philadelphus Mont Blanc Mock Orange 42 Retinispora obtusa nana Dwarf Japanese Cedar 5 Weigela Eva Rathke Dark Red Weigela 433^ IO Cotoneaster microphylla Small-leaved Rose Box 44 45 46 5 IO 6 Hydrangea quercifolia Deutzia gracilis Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Oak-leaved Hydrangea Slender Deutzia Large-flowering Hydrangea 47 5 Hibiscus syriacus, blue and white Rose of Sharon 48 i Tsuga canadensis Hemlock 49 7 Caryopteris mastacanthus Blue Spiraea SO s Lonicera fragrantissima Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle 51 s Cornus florida rubra Pink Dogwood 52 Pinus Strobus White Pine 53 7 Rhodotypos kerrioides White Kerria 54 s Weigela rosea Pink Weigela 55 IO Spiraea Thunbergii Snow Garland 56 7 Buddleia Veitchii Butterfly Plant 57 Pseudostuga Douglasi Douglas Spruce 58 5 Lonicera Morrowi Bush Honeysuckle 59 s Syringa vulgaris Lilac 60 7 Spiraea Thunbergii Snow Garland 61 6 Caryopteris mastacanthus Blue Spiraea 62 7 Forsythia suspensa Golden Bell 63 i Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree 64 I Picea pungens Kosteriana Blue Spruce 250 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 1 81 -Continued Key No. 65 66 67 68 69 70 7i 23 24 2 ! 26 27 28 Quan. Variety Larix europaea Magnolia Soulangeana Populus fastigiata Betula nigra Red Siberian Crab Fraxinus americana Cerasus japonica rosea pendula Cryptomeria Lobbi compacta Leucothoe Catesbaei Mahonia japonica Mahonia aquifolia Azalea Hinodegiri Retinispora obtusa gracilis Leucothoe Catesbaei Mahonia japonica Hypericum Moserianum Rhododendron roseum elegans Rhododendron atrosanguineum Andromeda floribunda Rhododendron maximum roseum Azalea indica alba Rhododendron maximum roseum Rhododendron Mrs. J. Glutton Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis Cotoneaster Simonsii Lonicera fragrantissima Cotoneaster Simonsii Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Desmodium penduliflorum Lonicera fragrantissima Juniperus virginiana glauca Spiraea A. Waterer Kerria japonica fl. pi. Viburnum plicatum Biota orientalis pyramidalis Spiraea callosa rosea Yucca filamentosa Buddleia Veitchii Juniperus virginiana Leucothoe Catesbaei Mahonia aquifolia Azalea indica alba Deutzia gracilis Retinispora filifera Juniperus elegantissima Leei Salisburia adiantifolia Juniperus Pfitzeriana Phlox Ardensi Amanda Viola cornuta, purple Antirrhinum, yellow Iris pallida dalmatica Phlox Von Lassburg Delphinium formosum Heliotrope Chieftain Geranium, white Antirrhinum, yellow Viola cornuta, blue Phlox Elizabeth Campbell " Heliopsis Pitcheriana Iris Kaempferi Phlox Ardensi Amanda Heliotrope Chieftain Geranium, white Common Name European Linden Pink Magnolia Lombardy Poplar Red Birch Crab. Apple American Ash Weeping Cherry Pyramidal Cryptomeria Pipewood Japanese Evergreen Barberry Holly-leaved Barberry Evergreen Azalea Thread-leaved Cedar Pipewood . Japanese Evergreen Barberry St. John's Wort Pink Rhododendron Crimson Rhododendron Early Andromeda Pink Rhododendron White Azalea Pink Rhododendron White Rhododendron Pyramidal Arborvitae Shining Rose Box Fragrant Honeysuckle Shining Rose Box Pyramidal Arborvitae Large-flowering Hydrangea Bush Clover Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle Blue Cedar Dwarf Pink Spiraea Double Corchorus Japanese Snowball Chinese Arborvitae Pink Spiraea Adam's Needle Butterfly Plant Red Cedar Pipewood Holly-leaved Barberry White Azalea Slender Deutzia Lace-leaved Cedar Golden Juniper Maidenhair Tree Pfitzer's Cedar Early Phlox Tufted Pansy Snapdragon Lavender Flag White Phlox Indigo Larkspur Heliotrope Geranium Snapdragon Tufted Pansy Pink Phlox Orange Sunflower Japanese Iris Early Phlox Heliotrope Geranium PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 251 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 182 Lot 1 80 feet x 240 feet. Treatment for a residence with a steep slope at the front and rear of the lot. The residence has a basement entrance with living rooms on the upper level, about ten feet above the pavement. The steep slopes are planted with shrubs and small trees of spiny or twiggy growth, affording protection without a fence or hedge, presenting a naturalistic appearance and providing a cover for birds Variety Juniperus virginiana Spiraea Van Houttei Rosa rubiginosa Crataegus cordata Hibiscus syriacus Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Paeonia 1'Esperance Phlox divaricata Iris Silver King Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Aster grandiflorus Paeonia Van Houttei Rudbeckia Newmani Pentstemon Torreyi Delphinium formosum Delphinium chinense Funkia cserulea Phlox Miss Lingard Dianthus barbatus Delphinium elatum Aster alpinus Iris Mme. Chereau Pseonia festiva maxima Delphinium elatum Rudbeckia Newmani Dicentra spectabilis Geum coccineum Delphinium formosum Phlox Crete Iris pallida dalmatica Funkia caerulea Dicentra spectabilis Chrysanthemum Golden Queen Delphinium formosum Aster amellus elegans Phlox Miss Lingard Iris Ksempferi Digitalis purpurea Doronicum plantagineum Scabiosa caucasica alba Phlox Rheinstrom Eupatorium cselestinum Aquilegia canadensis Helenium Hoopesii Digitalis purpurea Aucuba japonica. green Abelia grandiflora Tsuga canadensis Tsuga canadensis Cornus florida Populus fastigiata Tsuga canadensis Crataegus cordata Syringa persica Abelia grandiflora Ligustrum Regelianum Euonymus alatus Cornus stolonifera Stephanandra flexuosa Forsythia suspensa Abies Veitchii Common Name Red Cedar Drooping Spirwa Sweet Brier Washington Thorn Rose of Sharon Large-flowering Hydrangea Peony Early Blue Phlox White Flag Pink Hardy Phlox Michaelmas Daisy Crimson Peony Black-eyed Susan Beard's Tongue Indigo Larkspur Chinese Larkspur Plantain Lily Early Phlox Sweet William Tall Blue Larkspur Alpine Aster German Iris White Peony Tall Blue Larkspur Black-eyed Susan Bleeding Heart Avens Indigo Larkspur Early Phlox Lavender Flag Plantain Lily Bleeding Heart Hardy Chrysanthemum Indigo Larkspur Michaelmas Daisy Early Phlox Japanese Flag Foxgloves Leopard's Bane White Sultan Pink Phlox Hardy Ageratum Red Columbine Early Sneezewort Foxgloves Japanese Laurel Hybrid Abelia Hemlock Hemlock White Dogwood Lombardy Poplar Hemlock Washington Thorn Persian Lilac Hybrid Abelia Regel's Privet Cork-barked Spindle Tree Red-twigged Dogwood Stephanandra Drooping Golden Bell Veitch's Fir PLANTING PLAN. Fig. 182. Lot is 180x240 ft. See Key, pages 25 Pand 253 PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 182-Continued 253 Key No. Quan. 59 I 60 i 61 3 61} I 62 i 63 I 64 20 65 40 66 12 67 20 68 25 69 IS 70 16 7i 18 72 15 73 7 74 20 75 IO 76 25 76! 21 77 20 78 12 79 2O So 10 81 2O 82 2O 83 40 84 30 8S IS 86 30 87 IS 88 30 89 IS 90 5 91 IO 92 IS 93 20 94 I 95 I 96 I 97 I 98 2O 99 30 100 60 101 SO 102 SO 103 50 104 20 lol I 107 20 108 2S 109 12 no 20 in 12 112 20 113 IS 114 100 US 116 14 8 117 30 118 IS 119 IS I2O 250 121 122 9 20 Variety Betula alba Quercus rubra Styrax japonica Quercus palustris Cedrus Deodora Cedrela sinensis Mahonia japonica Ligustrum lucidum Thuya occidentalis Spiraea Van Houttei Chrysanthemum Julia LagravSre Rudbeckia Newmani Lonicera fragrantissima Digitalis purpurea Helianthus mollis Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis Spiraea A. Waterer Yucca filamentosa Hypericum Moserianum Salisburia adiantifolia Rhodotypos kerrioides Viburnum dentatum Hsliopsis Pitcheriana Dicentra spectabilis Phlox Miss Lingard Pentstemon barbatus Berberis Thunbergii Hesperis matronalis Iris aurea Eupatorium cselestinum Funkia caerulea Bocconia cordata Aster laevis Viburnum tomentosum Mahonia aquifolia Hypericum Moserianum Berberis ilicifolia Cryptomeria japonica Fagus sylvatica Riversi Magnolia Soulangeana Picea pungens Kosteriana Magnolia glauca Cornus stolonifera Berberis Thunbergii Symphoricarpos vulgaris Rosa rubiginosa Ligustrum Regelianum Berberis Thunbergii Juniperus virginiana Pyrus japonica Exochorda grandiflora Lonicera Morrowi Syringa vulgaris Callicarpa purpurea Pentstemon Torreyi Phlox divaricata Hesperis matronalis Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora alba Hydrangea paniculata, late Phlox divaricata Rhododendron Charles Dickens Rhododendron roseum elegans Buxus sempervirens Juniperus Schottii Rhododendron, Hybrids Common Name White Birch Red Oak Styrax Pin Oak True Cedar Chinese Cedrela Holly-leaved Barberry Evergreen Holly Arborvitae Drooping Spiraea Dark Red Chrysanthemum Black-eyed Susan Early Fragrant Honeysuckle Foxglove Sunflower Pyramidal Arborvitse Dwarf Pink Spiraea Adam's Needle St. John's Wort Maidenhair Tree White Kerria Arrow Wood Orange Sunflower Bleeding Heart Early Phlox Sweet William Japanese Barberry Rocket Yellow Flag Hardy Chrysanthemum Plantain Lily Plume Poppy Lavender Aster Japanese Snowball Holly-leaved Barberry St. John's Wort Holly-leaved Barberry Cryptomeria Purple Beech Pink Magnolia Blue Spruce Sweet Bay Red-twigged Dogwood Japanese Barberry Coral Berry Sweet Brier Regel Privet Japanese Barberry Red Cedar Japanese Quince Pearl Bush Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Lilacs Beauty Berry Beard's Tongue Early Blue Phlox Sweet Rocket Pink Phlox Hills of Snow Late Hydrangea Early Blue Phlox Dark Red Rhododendron Pink Rhododendron Box edging Schott's Cedar Hybrid Rhododendron 254 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING <2' fts. -OC Oi Owl lflO t^ 00 O, O I^^J?^ "' O t ~ a " N fO PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 255 I PLANTING PLAN. Fig. 183 Fig. 183. Lot 190 feet by 190 feet. Residence lot designed to provide a flower garden. garage, enclosed service yard and croquet lawn. The interesting features areja terrace walk as shown in Fig. 55, stepping stone walk in lawn as shown^in Fig. 6 and unique entrance arrangement as shown in Fig. 33 OOOOOOOOOOOOOQOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOdC PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 257 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 184 Arrangement designed for a contractor's residence, with detached office and good service yard arrangement Common Name Japanese Snowball Drooping Golden Bell Old-fashioned Sweet Shrub Dark Red Weigela Mock Orange Large-flowering Hydrangea Globe Arborvitae Japanese Evergreen Azalea Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Evergreen Azalea White Kerria Pink Rose of Sharon Large-flowering Hydrangea Youth and Old Age Iceland Poppy Shasta Daisy Evening Primrose White Blue Flag Japanese Barberry Alpine Aster Common Barberry Plantain Lily Hybrid Abelia Plantain Lily White Phlox St. John's Wort Evergreen Azalea Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Abelia Scotch Heather Hybrid Abelia Dwarf Pink Spiraea Regel's Privet Snow Garland Drooping Spiraea Schott's Juniper Snow Garland Purple Flag Dogwood Cedrela Japanese Judas Arborvitae Bush Clover Peony Japanese Iris Pink Dogwood Evening Primrose Arctic Daisy Peony Butterfly Plant Sweet Rocket St. John's Wort Red Columbine Holly-leaved Barberry Dwarf Deutzia Flowering Almond Early Blue Phlox SS Quan. Variety 2 3 4 3 3 I Viburnum plicatum Forsythia suspensa Calycanthus floridus Weigela Eva Rathke 5 7 Philadelphus coronarius 6 7 8 6 2 9 Hydrangea p. g. Thuya occidentalis globosa Azalea Hinodegiri 9 5 Rhododendron Charles. Dickens IO 6 Rhododeridron Mrs. J. Glutton ii 8 Azalea Hinodegiri 12 8 Rhodotypos kerrioides 13 14 IS 4 5 35 Hibiscus syriacus, single Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora Carnation (annual) 16 25 Larkspur (annual) 18 12 Papaver nudicaule 19 3O Heliotrope Chieftain 20 21 IS 25 Chrysanthemum, Shasta Daisy (Enothera missouriensis 22 6 Iris Mme. Chereau 23 5 Berberis Thunbergii 24 12 Aster Alpinus 11 1 Berberis vulgaris Funkia caerulea 27 30 Begonias 28 30 Begonias 29 S Abelia grandiflora 30 9 Funkia caerulea 31 32 ii Phlox Von Lassburg Chrysanthemum Shasta Daisy 33 20 Hypericum Moserianum 34 12 Azalea amoena 35 8 Rhododendron roseum elegans 36 9 Rhododendron album elegans 37 ii Rhododendron Everestianum 38 9 Rhododendron, Charles Dickens 39 IO Abelia grandiflora. 40 12 Calluna vulgaris 41 IO Abelia grandiflora 42 12 Spiraea A. Waterer 43 44 6 S Ligustrum Regelianum Spiraea Thunbergii 45 7 Spiraea Van Houttei 46 47 6 S Juniperus Schottii Spiraea Thunbergii 48 14 Iris Yolande 49 i Cornus florida 50 i Cedrela sinensis 51 s Cercis japonica 52 6 Thuya occidentalis pyramidalis 53 12 Desmodium penduliflorum 54 4 Paeonia Andre Lauris 55 12 Iris Kaempferi 56 I Cornus florida rubra 57 14 CEnothera missouriensis 58 8 Chrysanthemum arcticum 59 5 Paeonia Van Houttei 60 7 Buddleia Veitchiana 61 10 Hesperis matronalis 62 8 Hypericum Moserianum 63 8 Aquilegia canadensis 64 8 Mahonia aquifolia 65 14 Deutzia gracilis 66 6 Amygdalus nana, pink 67 IS Phlox drvaricata 258 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 184-Continued Key No. Quan Variety Common Name 68 Iris Silver King White Flag 69 Paeonia festiva maxima White Peony o Digitalis purpurea Foxglove ' 2 Digitalis purpurea Phlox Miss Lingard Foxglove Early Phlox ' 3 Hemerocallis flava Yellow Day Lily Primula polyantha Cowslip Iris Germanica aurea Yellow" Flag 6 Chrysanthemum St. Illoria Pink Chrysanthemum 77 Aquilegia chrysantha Yellow Columbine 78 Aster amellus elegans Pink Aster 79 Funkia caerulea Plantain Lily 80 Delphinium formosum Indigo Larkspur 81 Delphinium chinense Chinese Larkspur 82 Gaillardia grandiflora Blanket Flower 83 Iris Kaempferi Japanese Iris 84 Exochorda grandiflora Pearl Bush 85 2 86 Eupatorium ageratoides Weigela rosea Snake Root Pink Weigela 87 Forsythia viridissima Golden Bell 88 Hydrangea paniculata Late Hydrangea 89 2 Hybrid Tea Roses 90 Aster, Blue (annual) 91 Phlox divaricata Early Blue Phlox 92 93 Iris Kasmpferi Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Japanese Iris Pink Phlox 94 Delphinium elatum Hybrid Larkspur 95 Ageratum 96 97 Antirrhinum, yellow Acer saccharum Snapdragon Sugar Maple 98 Quercus palustris Pin Oak 99 Acer polymorphum atropurpureum Red Japanese Maple 100 Roses, standards 101 Salisburia adiantifolia Maidenhair Tree Ginkgo 102 I 103 Populus fastigiata Tilia dasystyla Rose Tausendschon Lombardy Poplar Yellow-twigged Linden Pink Climbing Rose 104 { Rose Alberic Barbier White Climbing Rose PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 259 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN-Fig. 186 Fig. 186. Treatment designed to attract birds and at the same time decrease the lawn area, thus reducing greatly the cost of maintenance No. Quan. Variety Common Name I 35 Berberis Thunbergii Japanese Barberry 2 3 4 35 25 IO Mahonia japonica Euonymus Bungeanus Euonymus americana Holly-leaved Barberry Chinese Spindle Tree Strawberry Tree 5 17 Cerasus pennsylvanica Honey Cherry 6 12 7 Viburnum Opulus sterilis Cornus florida High Bush Cranberry White Dogwood 8 40 Symphoricarpos vulgaris Coral Berry 9 20 Cotoneaster Simonsii Shining Rose Box ro 50 30 Ligustrum Regelianum Ribes aureum Regel's Privet Flowering Currant 2O I tea virginica Virginian Willow 12 SO Berberis Thunbergii Japanese Barberry 13 60 2O Ligustrum Quihoui Crataegus Crus-galli Evergreen Privet Shining Thorn 15 2O Photinia villosa Photinia 16 17 5 30 Cerasus Jas. H. Veitch Cornus stolonifera Japanese Cherry Red-twigged Dogwood 18 20 Eyonymus alatus Cork-barked Spindle Tree 19 IS Lonicera tatarica Tartarian Honeysuckle 20 35 Aralia pentaphylla Dwarf Angelica Tree 21 22 35 7 Callicarpa purpurea Crataegus cordata Beauty Berry Washington Thorn 23 3O Sambucus puhens Red-berried Elder 24 25 25 35 Lonicera Morrowi Aralia spinosa Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Hercules' Club 30 Pinus Strobus White Pine 26 20 Eleagnus longipes (fruiting) Silver Thorn 26^ IO Crataegus Lelandi Evergreen Thorn 27 75 "Ihus copallina Shining Sumach IO Lonicera Morrowi, Yellow Berried Bush Honeysuckle 28 2 40 Rhus copallina Shining Sumach 29 30 20 5 Crataegus pyracantha Amelanchier botryapium Evergreen Thorn June Berry 31 30 Ilex verticillata Deciduous Holly 32 3O Lindea benzoin Spice Bush 33 15 Crataegus cordata Washington Thorn 34 3O Lonicera Morrowi Bush Honeysuckle 35 36 35 35 Pyrus arbutifolia Euonvmus alatus Choke Berry Cork-barked Spindle Tree 37 45 Crataegus Crus-galli Shining Thorn 38 40 Myrica cerifera Wax Myrtle 39 3O Ligustrum Regelianum Regel's Privet 40 SO Viburnum dentatum Arrow Wood 41 42 43 35 45 35 Chionanthus virginica Rhodotypo* kerrioides Cornus alternifolia White Fringe White Kerria Blue Dogwood 44 45 ol 45 Symphoricarpos vulgaris Viburnum cassinoides Cora! Berrv Withe Rod 46 50 Ilex glabra Inkberry 47 48 40 1 5 Viburnum Lantana Crataegus Oxycantha Wayfaring Tree English Hawthorn 49 40 Cornus sibirica Red-twigged Cornel 50 51 25 25 Pinus rigida Viburnum prunifolium Pitch Pine Sheep Berry 52 18 Rhamnus caroliniensis Buckthorn Dwarf Pine 54 55 30 20 Cornus paniculata Berberis Thunbergii Panicled Dogwood Japanese Barberry 56 30 20 Berberis vulgaris Cornus florida Common Barberry White Dogwood Cornelian Cherry 58 59 60 50 14 40 Viburnum dilitatum Lonicera Ruprechtiana Tsuga canadensis Japanese Bush Cranberry Bush Honeysuckle Hemlock Spruce 61 20 Cornus florida White Dogwood 62 25 Eleagnus longipes Silver Thorn 260 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PLANTING PLAN Fig. 186 Lot is 360x480 ft. See Key, pages 259 and 261 PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO KEY TO PLANTING PLAN-Fig. 186-Continued 261 Key No. Qua n. Variety 63 5 64 D Symphoricarpus racemosus Ulmus americana Snowberry American Elm 65 Tilia americana American Linden 66 67 68 Acer saccharum Populus 'fastigiata Quercus palustris Sugar Maple Lombardy Poplar Pin Oak 69 Buxus arborescens, untrimmed Old-fashioned Box 70 euercus coccinea Scarlet Oak 7i uercus rubra Red Oak 72 Quercus rubra Red Oak 73 74 Rhododendron Charles Dickens Azalea indica alba Hybrid Rhododendron White Azalea 75 Rhododendron Mrs. J. Glutton White Rhododendron 76 i Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia 77 i 78 Rhododendron album elegans Rhododendron Charles Dickens Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron 79 Azalea Hinodegiri Evergreen Azalea 80 I 81 Abelia grandiflora Rhododendron album elegans Hybrid Abelia White Rhododendron 82 83 Rhododendron John Waterer Rhododendron roseum elegans Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron 84 i Azalea Hinodegiri Evergreen Azalea 85 i 86 Hypericum Moserianum Azalea indica alba St. John's Wort White Azalea 87 Aucuba japonica, green Japanese Laurel 88 Abelia grandiflora Hybrid Abelia 89 Spiraea Thunbergii Snow Garland 90 9i i Lonicera Morrowi Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Bush Honeysuckle Pink Hardy Phlox 92 Phlox Crete Early Phlox 93 I 94 I 95 Iris Silver King Paeonia Andre Lauris Buddleia Veitchii White Flag Red Peony Butterfly Shrub 96 I Phlox Von Lassburg White Phlox 97 I Phlox Eugene Danzanvilliers Mauve Phlox 98 Kerria japonica, single Yellow Kerria 99 I oo Chrysanthemum Golden Mme. Martha Rhodotypos kerrioides Yellow Chrysanthemum White Kerria OI I Funkia casrulea Plantain Lily 02 I Pentstemon Torreyi Beard's Tongue O3 Dianthus barbatus, white Sweet William 04 Morus tatarica Russian Mulberry OS Quercus rubra Red Oak 06 Cerasus pennsylvanica Wild Cherry 07 Prunus serotina Wild Black Cherry 08 Quercus tinctoria Black Oak 09 Larix europaea European Larch 10 Koelreuteria paniculata Varnish Tree Pyrus americana Mountain Ash 12 ; Magnolia acuminata Cucumber Tree 13 l Quercus palustris Pin Oak PLANTING PLAN Fig. 188 Lot is 90x190 ft. See Key Pages 263 and 264 PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.- Fig. 188 263 Unusual flower garden, designed on informal lines, planted with perennials and annuals to provide an abundance of bloom in masses throughout the Summer No. Quart. Variety Common Name i 3 r orsythia viridissima Golden Bell Philadelphus coronarius Mock Orange 2 3 Hydrangea paniculata, late 2 Populus Bolleana Late Hydrangea Silver-leaved Pyramidal Pop- lar 3 25 \rabis albida Rock Cress 50 Narcissus Von Sion Daffodil 4 9 uniperus virginiana Red Cedar 5 6 50 'uniperus Schottii ris pallida dalmatica Pyramidal Juniper Lavender Flag 7 18 syringa, named kinds Lilacs 8 9 20 Lilium auratum 8 Rudbeckia laciniata fl. ol. Gold Banded Lily Golden Glow 10 37 Delphinium hybridum Larkspur ii 12 8 Aster novi-belgii, var. Climax 30 Chrysanthemum Boston Lavender Blue Hardy Aster Yellow Chrysanthemum 13 30 Marigolds 14 9 Zentaurea montana Cornflower IS IS Campanula persicifolia Peach-leaved Bellflower 16 9 ^aeonia. named kinds 17 30 Houstonia serpyllifolia Bluets 30 J ansies 18 20 Jlium speciosum roseum Japanese Lilies 19 25 Digitalis purpurea Foxglove 20 IS Jupatorium caelestinum Hardy Ageratum 21 uniperus Cannarti Pyramidal Juniper 22 23 i uniperus chinensis uniperus Schottii Chinese Pyramidal Juniper Pyramidal Cedar 24 i ^ uniperus Cannarti Pyramidal Cedar 25 uniperus virginiana glauca Pyramidal Cedar 26 j uniperus chinensis Pyramidal Cedar 27 18 Vlarieolds 28 29 2 Juniperus Cannarti 2 Juniperus Cannarti 2 Ligustrum ovalifolium (to form Pyramidal Cedar Pyramidal Cedar an arch) California Privet 30 20 < jladiolus Sulphur King Yellow Gladiolus 20 'aonia edulis superba Pink Peony 31 I Jiota orientalis conspicua Oriental Arborvitae 32 20 Vlignonette 33 30 Delphinium (annual) Larkspur 34 27 Phlox Elizabeth Campbell Pink Phlox 35 I Thuya plicata Fern-leaved Arborvitae 36 45 'hlox. Miss Lingard Early White Phlox 37 40 Jeliotrope 38 20 ! shasta Daisy 39 I Dryptomeria japonica 40 40 i \geratum 41 40 Zinnias, salmon pink 42 27 Campanula latifolia macrantha Bellflower 43 20 ZMarkia 44 30 v^iola lutea splendens Tufted Pansy 45 25 Dhina Asters, pink 46 I ietinispora obtusa nana Dwarf Japanese Cypresa 47 40 1 \geratum 47^ 40 Zinnias, clear yellow 48 3 r orsythia viridissima Golden Bell 3 Lxorchorda grandiflora Pearl Bush 3 iydrangea paniculata, late Late Hydrangea 49 45 ^hlox, Mrs. Jenkins White Phlox SO i ~ryptomeria japonica 5i 52 45 Iberis sempervirens 65 Scabiosa (Pansies along edge) Candytuft Blue Bonnet 53 54 5 Papaver orientale 48 Phlox Rheinlander Oriental Poppy Salmon Pink Phlox 55 I Jiota orientalis conspicua Oriental Arborvitae 56 45 Viola cornuta purpurea Tufted Pansy 264 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING fif Quan. 57 27 58 I 59 SO 60 26 6r 30 62 i 63 25 IS 64 IS 65 6 16 66 I 67 I 68 20 68^ I 69 I 70 i 71 i 72 20 25 73 40 74 25 75 27 76 18 77 30 78 17 79 SO 50 80 5 81 5 82 S 83 5 84 S 85 5 86 3 87 i 88 IS 89 9 90 I 91 I 91 J* I 92 . i 93 94 I 2 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 188-Continued loo SO Variety Chrysanthemum Thodc Juniperus chinensis Pink Petunias Phlox W. C. Egan Lupinus polyphyllus Thuya plicata Gladiolus America Paeonia Andre Lauris Mallow Marvels (sow i pkg. of Sweet Alyssum seed as cover) Buddleia Veitchiana Aquilegia caerulea Syringa Marie LeGraye Syringa Charles X Boltonia asteroides Syringa Josikaea Juniperus Cannarti Syringa Mme. Lemoine Cornus florida rubra Pansies around edge Paeonia festiva maxima Delphinium hybridum Lilium candidum Salpiglossis Dahlias, Cactus varieties Phlox Frau Anton Buchner Hollyhocks, pink. Narcissus (under shrubbery) Viola White Perfection uniperus squamata uniperus squamata uniperus Sabina uniperus Sabina tamaricifolia uniperus tripartite Taxus canadensjs Taxus canadensis Tsuga canadensis Berberis Thunbergii Rhododendrons, hybrid Rhododendrons, hybrid Cornus florida Tsuga Sargent's Weeping Syringa, named variety Syringa, named variety Cerasus rosea pendula Vinca rosea alba Dwarf Pink Cosmos Common Name Pink Chrysanthemum Chinese Pyramidal Juniper Hardy Phlox Lupines Fern-leaved Arborvitae Pink Gladiolus Deep Pink Peony Butterfly Shrub Columbine Blue Lilac, White Lilac, Red Starwort Hungarian Lilac Pyramidal Juniper Lilac, White Pink Dogwood White Peony Larkspur Madonna Lily Hardy Phlox Tufted Pansy Spreading Juniper Spreading Juniper Savin's Spreading Juniper Savin's Tamarix-leaved Junpier American Yew American Yew Hemlock Spruce Japanese Barberry White Dogwood Weeping Hemlock Lilac Lilac Japanese Weeping Cherry White Madagascar Periwinkle PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 265 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN-Fig. 190 A good walk arrangement and planting treatment for a church property. Such properties are often devoid of any such planting, which detracts greatly from the general appearance. Key No. Quan. Variety i 16 Quercus rubra 2 3 10 30 Mahonia japonica Leucothoe Catesbaei 4 20 Yucca filamentosa 5 5 Lonicera Standishi 6 10 Lonicera Morrowi 7 8 7 i Rhodotypos kerrioides Quercus palustris 9 o I 5 Quercus coccinea Juniperus Schottii j 12 Azalea amoena 2 3 I IS Quercus tinctoria Leucothoe Catesbaei 4 7 Lonicera Standishi S 6 7 8 Rhodotypos kerrioides Aucuba japonica, green 7 12 Leucothoe Catesbaei 8 6 Mahonia japonica 9 9 Mahonia aquifolia O 3 Thuya plicata j 5 Taxus canadensis 2 Taxus cuspidata 3 IO Leucothoe Catesbaei 4 I 5 5 8 Juniperus virginiana Juniperus tamariscifolia Cotoneaster horizontalis 5 Biota orientalis 28 5 Taxus baccata 29 Juniperus Cannarti 4 Ilex crenata 3O 8 Cotoneaster microphylla 31 32 8 i Cotoneaster microphylla Juniperus Cannarti 5 Ilex crenata 33 5 Taxus baccata 34 I Juniperus Cannarti 5 Ilex crenata 35 i Juniperus Cannarti 5 Ilex crenata 36 8 Abelia grandiflora 37 38 5 Taxus cuspidata Juniperus Cannarti 3 Ilex crenata 39 Juniperus Cannarti 4 Ilex crenata 40 12 Abelia grandiflora 41 42 12 8 Abelia grandiflora Mahonia aquifolia 43 5 Lonicera fragrantissima 44 IS Leucothoe Catesbaei 45 4 Cotoneaster Simonsii 46 8 Bambusa Metake 47 48 IO s Abelia grandiflora Azalea Hinodegiri 49 7 Weigela Eva Rathke SO 7 Deutzia gracilis 51 12 Lonicera Morrowi J2 5 Hydrangea p. g. 53 7 Hibiscus, single pink 54 IO Hydrangea arborescens g. !5 7 Hibiscus, single pink 56 IO Ligustrum Regelianum 57 9 Cotoneaster Simonsii 58 480 Ligustrum ovalifolium 59 I Ulmus Americana Common Name Red Oak Japanese Mahonia Drooping Andromeda Adam's Needle Standish's Bush Honeysuckle Japanese Bush Honeysuckle White Kerria Pin Oak Scarlet Oak Schott's Juniper Hardy Evergreen Azalea Black Oak Catesby's Leucothoe Standish's Bush Honeysuckle White Kerria Japanese Laurel Catesby's Leucothoe Japanese Mahonia Oregon Barberry Fern-leaved Arborvitae Canadian Yew Japanese Yew Catesby's Leucothoe Red Cedar Tamarix-leaved Juniper Prostrate Cotoneaster Oriental Arborvitae English Yew Pyramidal Juniper Japanese Holly Small-leaved Cotoneaster Small-leaved Cotoneaster Pyramidal Cedar Japanese Holly English Yew Pyramidal Cedar Japanese Holly Pyramidal Cedar Japanese Holly Hybrid Abelia Japanese Yew Pyramidal Cedar Japanese Holly Pyramidal Cedar Japanese Holly Hybrid Abelia Hybrid Abelia Oregon Barberry Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle Catesby's Leucothoe Shining-leaved Rose Box Japanese Cane Hybrid Abelia Evergreen Azalea Dark Red Weigela Slender Deutzia Japanese Bush Honeysuckle Large-flowered Hydrangea Rose of Sharon " Hills of Snow " Rose of Sharon Regel's Privet Shining-leaved Rose Box California Privet American Elm 266 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 267 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 190-Continued Key No. Qu an. Variety 60 i Cerasus avium fl. pi. 61 Salisburia adiantifolia 62 Salisburia adiantifolia 63 Quercus rubra 64 Acer saccharum 65 Crataegus Oxycantha, pink 66 Retinispora obtusa nana 8 Biota orientalis compacta Cedrus Libani 69 Salisburia adiantifolia 70 Taxus baccata 7i Buxus arborescens pyramidalis 72 Larix europaea 73 Buxus arborescens pyramidalis 74 Taxus baccata a Juniperus virginiana Buxus arborescens pyramidalis 77 Larix europaea 78 I Berberis Thunbergii 79 Fagus Riversi 80 Yucca filamentosa 81 82 Ligustrum Regelianum Spiraea A. Waterer 83 Rhododendron Mrs. J. Clutton 84 Rhododendron Charles Dickens SI Rhododendron Album elegans Rhododendron Charles Dickens 15 Rhododendron roseum elegans Ligustrum Regelianum 89 Berberis Thunbergii 90 I Hypericum Moserianum 91 Acer platanoides Schwedleri 92 Salisburia adiantifolia 93 Liquidambar styraciflua 94 Cornus florida rubra "> Caryopteris mastacanthus 96 I Philadelphus Lemoinei 97 > Ligustrum Regelianum 98 I i Berberis Thunbergii Common Name European Double-flowered Cherry Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo) Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo) Red Oak Silver Maple May Thorn Japanese Cypress Compact Oriental Arborvitae Cedar of Lebanon Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo) English Yew Pyramidal Box European Larch Pyramidal Box English Yew Red Cedar Pyramidal Box European Larch Thunberg's Barberry River's Purple Beech Adams' Needle Regel's Privet Dwarf Pink Spiraea Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Hybrid Rhododendron Regel's Privet Thunberg's Barberry St. John's Wort Schwedler's Purple Maple Maidenhair Tree (Ginkgo) Sweet Gum Pink Dogwood Verbena Shrub Lemoine's Monkshood Regel's Privet Japanese Barberry 268 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING g 3 -2 i|i ~ ~ ] a j||| iijiiiliiitlliiiiiil 3 00 0 O O 00 O 00 O M M 10^ 00 t- O M M 1-1 :s 2*2 S J" ll : 5 .s PS^I s 1 ^ a a o x 0fc fcfcjS &3^ o 8M 'c o. c'c'c c u S3^^ ^ l^lill I! IE il g :S S 8 2^2 ^Ij g^-| g^ o o|| o K A 01 1 O.S q ^g &iil!fl o ll ^^o Including driveway lot is 2 1 7x300 ft. PLANTING PLAN Fig. 187 270 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING Key No. Quan. KEY TO PLANTING PLAN.-Fig. 185 29 30 31 8 32 9 33 7 34 8 35 IS 36 37 1000 38 2 39 6 Variety Hypericum Moserianum Azalea indica alba Rhododendron hybrids Buxus arborescens (untrimmed) Rhododendron hybrids Azalea indica alba Hypericum Moserianum Lonicera Morrow! Hydrangea paniculata Abelia grandiflora Azalea Hinodegiri Tilia dasystyla Hibiscus, single pink Hydrangea arborescens grandiflora alba Spiraea arguta Philadelphus Lemoinei Rosa Baby Rambler Weigela Eva Rathke Deutzia gracilis Hydrangea paniculata Mahonia aquifolia Pachysandra terminalis Hypericum Moserianum Stephanandra flexuosa Hydrangea paniculata, early Weigela Eva Rathke Buddleia Veitchii Spiraea Thunbergii Spiraea callosa alba Viburnum plicatum Desmodium penduliflorum Abelia grandiflora Lonicera Morrow i Azalea indica alba Vinca minor Annuals and Bulbs Buxus suffruticosa Acer polymorphum ampelopsilobum Cotoneaster horizontalis Common Name St. John's Wort Hardy White Azalea Hybrid Rhododendron Old-fashioned Box Hybrid Rhododendron Hardy White Azalea St. John's Wort Bush Honeysuckle Late Hydrangea Hybrid Abelia Evergreen Azalea Crimean Linden Rose of Sharon Everblooming Hydrangea Hybrid Spiraea Mock Orange Baby Rambler Rose Dark Red Weigela Slender Deutzia Late Hydrangea Holly-leaved Barberry Pachysandra St. John's Wort Stephanandra Hydrangea Dark Red Weigela Butterfly Plant Snow Garland Dwarf White Spiraea Japanese Snowball Bush Clover Hybrid Abelia Bush Honeysuckle White Azalea Periwinkle Dwarf Box Japanese Maple Trailing Rose Boz PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 271 PLANTING PLAN. Fig. 185 Lot is 127x150 ft. Fig. 1 85. Good arrangement for a straight. Box-bordered approach to school, hospital or institutional building 272 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING PLANTING PLAN. Fig. 189 Lot is 66x1 80 ft. PLANTING PLANS AND KEYS THERETO 273 KEY TO PLANTING PLAN -Fig. 189 a public monument. The appearance of somewhat similar planting arrangement Treatment to provide a picturesque setting for many such features would be enhanced by a Key No. Quan. 25 Variety Berberis Thunbergii Abelia grandiflora Viburnum molle Abelia grandiflora Viburnum molle Abelia grandiflora Viburnum molle Abelia grandiflora Viburnum molle Abelia grandiflora Cerasus Laurocerasus Juniperus virginiana Biota orientalis compacta Yucca filamentosa Ilex crenata Berberis Thunbergii Berberis Thunbergii Buxus pyramidalis Ulmus americana Common Name Japanese Barberry Hybrid Abelia Viburnum Hybrid Abelia Viburnum Hybrid Abelia Viburnum Hybrid Abelia Viburnum Hybrid Abelia English Laurel Red Cedar Chinese Arborvitae Adams' Needle Japense Holly Japanese Barberry Japanese Barberry Pyramid Box American Elm 274 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING .GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL TERMS Axis A line actually drawn and used as the basis of measurement. Bar Sand Seashore sand. Batter (or break back) A term used to signify a wall or other material which does not stand upright but inclines from you when you stand before it. Breaker Dust The finest material from the stone crusher. Broad Mortar Joint Mortar joint from one-half to three-quarters of an inch in brick, and from one to two inches in stone work. Cheek Block: Cheek Walls The walls at the ends of steps, into which the steps are built. Forebay A small reservoir or receiving basin at the head of a pipe leading to a ram or pump. Laid Quarry Face (Stone) The natural rock face of the stone as taken from the quarry. Napping Hammer Long-handled hammer used in breaking stone, weighing four to six pounds. Neat Width Exact width. Ramp A concavity in a wall or railing rising from a lower to a higher level, or descending from a higher to a lower level. Reveal Joint Unpointed joints between the stones forming a wall, the mortar being raked out with a small tool from two to three inches deep. Row-lock Fashion Brick laid on edge as a coping or cover on top of a wall. Rubble Gutter and Curb Undressed stone from the field or quarry, laid at random. Scotched Wall Stone set on edge; that is, the narrow way up, and one stone rising above the other alternately. Splint Spawls The small stone resulting from dressing stone at the quarry; pieces which are too small for building purposes. Template A mould used for forming or setting work. INDEX TO CONTENTS 275 50, 156 197 ... 198 . . .213 . . . .222 172 Annuals: p age For the Garden i(, 2 In the Border 211 Approaches, Arrangement of 29 Approaches, Cement 59 Arches, Rose, over Walks 204 Architectural Features of the Garden. .171- Autumn Bulbs in the Border 210 Background for the House 79 Background, Garden 133 Base Plantings 84 8s Basins, Catch ...".. . . 62 Connecting with Drainage Lines 63 Gratings 63 Beds: Garden Turf Edge for Preparation of Rose In the Wild Garden Bird Baths Bituminous Roads Border Plantings 162 Borders: Used in Path Construction 156 Hardy 197 Along a Fence 198 In Vegetable Garden 198 Width of 198 Arrangement of Plants in 200 Background for 204 Rose Chains in 204 Bulbs and Tubers in 205 Spring Bulbs in 205 Summer Flowering Bulbs in 205 Autumn Bulbs in 210 Annuals in 211 Boundary Plantings 101 Brick Gutters 62 Brick Walks 51, 55, 155 Brick Walls 140 Bulbs and Tubers in Hardy Borders ... 205 Bulbs for the Garden 162 Catch Basins 62 Connecting with Drainage Lines 63 Gratings 63 Cement Approaches 59 Driveways 57 Gutters 61 Surfacing 59 Walks. 47 Classification of Gardens 123 Climbing Roses in the Garden 219 Coping for Garden Walls 140 For Pools 173 Dimensions and Design, Garden 124 Drives, Walks and Entrances, Arrange- ment of 29- 46 Drives, Walks and Roads, Construction of 47-63 Dry Stone Walls 144 Dutch Tile Walks 55 Enclosures, Graden 133, 138 Enclosures, Planting Around Garden. . . 163 Entrance, Garden 124 Entrances, Walks and Drives, Arrange- ment of 29-40 Evergreens: p a ge For Base Plantings 85 For Border Plantings 102 For the Garden i(, 2 For Rock Gardens 230 Exposure for the House 19 Farm, Ornamental Planting on the 106 Fish for Pools 170 Flagstone Walks '.'.48, '155 Floral Treatment of the Garden 159 Flower Garden, The 123-170 Fountains and Pools 172 Garden: Architectural Features of the. . . .171-194 ackground 133 Beds. 150, 150 ....123 223-230 Dimensions and Design 124 Enclosures 133, i ^8, 163 Entrance j 24 Features, Wooden, Color of 194 Floral Treatment of. . 159 Flower 123-170 Houses 181 Seats 181 Steps 149, 227 Walks 150, 155, 156 Walls 138 Gardens: Classification of Rock. Wild Glossary of Technical Words 264 Grading Lawns 68 Grading Plan, The 15, 18 Grass Seeds 74 Gratings, for Catch Basins 63 Gravel Walks 48, 155 Gutters: Cement, Rubble 61 Brick, Sod 62 Hardy Borders 197-211 Hardy Shrubs for the Garden 162 Heathers, The, in Rock Gardens 230 Hedges 144 House: Locating the 19 Exposure for : 19 Background for the 79 Trees for Framing the 80 Houses, Garden 181 Humus for Garden Beds 159 Insect Pests Attacking Trees and Shrubs.i22 Lawn Trees: Specimen 93 Groupings 94 Lawns: Grading, Construction and Upkeep. 65- 77 Preliminary Preparations 65 Lawns ascending from Highways 67 Lawns descending from Highways 67 Sub-grade 67 Underdrainage 68 Grading 68 Larger Areas 68 House Below Pavement Grade 69 Terraces 70 Lawn Making 71 276 PRACTICAL LANDSCAPE GARDENING -IS, Lawns Continued Sodding Seeding Grass Seeds Locating the House 19 Macadam (Waterbound) Driveways 57 Macadam Walks 48 Moving Trees H9 Ornamental Planting on the Farm 106 Ornamental Planting of Trees and Shrubs 79-122 Perennial Borders 197 Perennials: For the Garden 159 Time to Plant 198 Summer Care of 200 Pergolas .188-193 Piers U9 Plan, Grading Plan, Planting Planning, Importance of Careful Planting Plan, The Plantings: Base Boundary Border Ornamental, on the Farm Plants for Garden Pools Pools: Depth Construction Coping Water Supply and Drainage. . Fountain Heads Plants Near and in Fish in Pruning Trees Retaining Walls 146 Roads, Drives and Walks, Construction of 47- 63 Rock Gardens: Garden Location 223 Placing of Rocks 223 Soil 224 Arrangement of Plants 224 Importance of Moisture 225 Garden Steps with Pockets for Plants.227 Time of Planting 229 Shrubs and Evergreens in 230 Heathers in 230 Root Pruning of Trees 120 Rose Arches over Walks 204 Rose Gardens 211 Designs 213 Position 213 Beds 213 Planting and Care 216 Varieties 216 Climbing Roses 216 Rubble Gutters 61 Sandstone Walls 138 Seats, Garden 181 Seeding Lawns 74 Shrubs and Trees, Ornamental Plant- !of 79-122 INDEX TO CONTENTS-Continued Page 74 74 74 8 ... 18 ... 9 ... 18 84, 85 . . . 101 . . .102 . . . 106 179 ...172 . . .173 ...173 ...178 .. .178 . ..179 179 Shrubs, Hardy, for the Garden. Shrubs in Rock Gardens Slate Walks Sodding Sod Gutters Soil for Rock Gardens. . . . ..162 ..230 -155 . 74 . . . 62 ...224 Specimen Tre Law Page .............. 93, 94 In Front of Border Plantings ........ 106 Stepping Stone Walks ............. 54, 155 Steps, Garden ................. 149, 227 Stone Walls, Dry .................... 144 Stucco Walls ........................ 143 Summer Flowering Bulbs in Borders. . .205 Sundials ............................ 171 Surfacing, Cement ................... 59 Swimming Pools ..................... 179 Tanbark Walks ...................... 156 Terrace Walks ....................... 54 Terraces ............................ 70 Tile Walks .......................... 55 Tree Moving ........................ 119 Tree Planting ....................... 115 With Dynamite .................... 119 Trees and Shrubs, Ornamental Planting of ............................ 79-122 Background for the House .......... 79 Framing the House ................. 80 Base Plantings .................. 84, 85 Unity in Lawn Planting ............ 91 Planting for Detail ................. 91 Trees for Driveways ................ 93 Specimen Lawn Trees .............. 93 Lawn Groupings ................... 94 Planting in Lawn Depressions ....... 101 Planting in Valleys ................. lor Boundary Plantings ................ 101 Variety in Border Planting .......... 102 Edging the Border Plantings ........ 102 Evergreens in Border Plantings ...... 102 Specimen Trees in Front of Border Plantings Ornamental Planting on the Farm.. Tree Planting Pruning lanting with Dyn mite Tree P Moving Large Trees Root Pruning Care of Trees and Shrubs Insect Pests Turf Edge for Beds .................. 197 Turf Walks ......................... 155 Underdrainage for Lawns ............. 68 Valleys, Planting in .................. 101 Vegetable Garden, Borders in .......... 198 Walks, Drives and Entrances, Arrange- ment of ........................ 29- 46 Walks, Drives and Roads, Construction of ............................. 47-63 Walks: Garden .................. 150, 155, 156 In Wild Gardens ................... 222 Walls: Garden ........................... 138 Sandstone ......................... 138 Coping for ........................ 140 Brick ............................. 140 Stucco ............................ 143 Dry Stone ........................ 144 Retaining ......................... 146 Water: In the Garden ..................... 170 For Swimming Pools ................ 180 Waterbound Macadam Driveways ..... 57 Wild Gardens ........................ 221 Walks in .......................... 222 Beds in ........................... 222 Planting in ........................ 222 Flowers in .......................... 222 Wooden Garden Features, Color of ..... 194 A 000586714 8