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 «I4
 
 BERLIN COURSE 
 
 OF 
 
 EASY WOOD-WORK 
 
 A.V INTRODUCTION TO 
 
 PRACTICAL WORK FOR YOUNGER BOYS 
 
 IN SCHOOL AND HOME 
 
 Mitlj an ^ppmtiii 
 
 Containing the Cojwse of the Berlin School- Workshop in 
 Paper, Cardboard, and Stick Work 
 
 WITH 260 SKETCHES ON 11 PLATES 
 
 ISSUED BY THE SOCIETY FOR PROMOTING MANUAL TRAINING 
 BERLIN SECTION 
 
 Translated by W. G. FIELD, M.A. 
 
 LONDON 
 O. NEWMANN & CO., 84 Newman Street, W. 
 
 1895
 
 Preface 
 
 In the formation of courses, the German advocates of 
 Manual Trainmg are guided by two principles : on the one 
 hand, they seek to adapt the work to be done to the 
 physical strength, intellectual development, and interests 
 of the child ; on the other, they endeavour so to arrange 
 it that there is a clear progression from the easy to the 
 difficult, and from the simple to the composite. 
 
 The little book before me fills a gap in the courses based 
 on this system which are already in existence. Practical 
 teachers have long felt the presence of such a gap ; it was 
 necessary to find for boys of from eight to ten years of age 
 some form of employment exactly suited to the stage at 
 which they are, some means of quickening and developing 
 the desire of activity, and the formative impulse. The 
 Introduction which follows elucidates this in the light of 
 facts and of history. 
 
 Eeferring, then, to that Introduction, in the first place, as 
 President of tlie chief Berlin Association for Promoting the 
 Manual Training of Boys, I testify that Easy Wood-Work 
 has fully approved its value in the Berlin school-work- 
 shops, and attracts proportionally the greatest number of 
 pupils. It awakens the desire to work and the delight in 
 work ; it trains eye, hand, and form-sense of the boy in a 
 way adapted to his youthful capacity, and it proves an 
 excellent bridge to the more serious and difficult work done 
 at the bench. 
 
 2065871
 
 4 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Anyone who reads the followmg explanatory remarks on 
 the method of conducting the instruction, and observes the 
 great multiplicity of objects and forms represented in 
 the plates, will become conscious that this course has been 
 drawn up with much thought and care, and has grown 
 under the test of actual experience. Thus in our Berlin 
 Association we are grateful to those who have performed 
 with so much industry and devotion the meritorious task 
 of preparing it. Our feelings are shared by many teachers 
 who at the Danzig Congress this year examined the work 
 done in accordance with this course. 
 
 I may therefore wish this little book a very wide circula- 
 tion. It will assuredly be welcome everywhere where the 
 want of suitable employment, educational in its character, for 
 boys of the age indicated is felt, particularly then in work- 
 shops for the young, working homes, orphanages, reforma- 
 tories, and other educational institutions. Nor will it be 
 less available for the home circle. I warmly commend it 
 for use in all such quarters. 
 
 VOX SCHENCKENDORFF, 
 
 Member of the Abgeordneten-Haus, President of the 
 Berlin Association, and of the German Associa- 
 tion for Promoting Manual Training. 
 
 GoRLiTZ, October 1894.
 
 Contents 
 
 PAGE 
 P]IEFACE ........ 3 
 
 Introduction ....... 7 
 
 The Method of Conducting the Work . . . .13 
 
 Courses : — 
 
 A. Work with "Natural" Wood . , . .23 
 
 B. Work with Split- Wood and Thin Boards . . 32 
 Appendix : — 
 
 Course in Paper, Cardboard, and Stick Work . . 42
 
 Introduction 
 
 The present movement in favour of enlisting work with 
 the body in the service of education received, as is well 
 known, its first impetus from Denmark and Sweden. 
 Now, as the northern Slojd is, in the main, confined to 
 wood- work at the bench, which naturally can only be 
 pursued with advantage by boys more than eleven years 
 old, in the first German workshops for the young, that was 
 the age which was kept in view. The practical courses in 
 " pulp " work, wood-carving, bench work, and metal work, 
 were throughout calculated only for older boys. But the 
 more the conviction grew that, to satisfy the child's innate 
 impulse to activity, and to secure the full harmonious 
 development of its powers, practical work must be added 
 as a necessary complement to the educational disciplines 
 hitherto employed, the plainer it became to the advocates 
 of Manual Training that no age should be excluded from 
 the benefits of the instruction. This opinion derived con- 
 firmation from the fact that in Kindergarten the principle 
 of work was beneficially applied in the case of children of 
 the preparatory school age. Thus the wish to fill the gap 
 — to form a bridge, as it were — between the work of the 
 Kindergarten and the school - workshop grew stronger. 
 The matter engaged the attention of the German Associa- 
 tion for the Promotion of Manual Training. At its fifth 
 general meeting at Eisenach in 1891, Herr Hertel and 
 
 7
 
 8 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Herr Kalb delivered addresses which formed the basis of 
 an exhaustive discussion of the subject. The result of that 
 discussion was a recommendation to all German school- 
 workshops to make practical experiments in order to throw 
 light on the form courses should take to be most suitable 
 for younger children. 
 
 Suggestions for such experiments lay ready to hand in 
 many books. Thus the labours of Barth and Niederley 
 {Bcs, deutschen Knahen HanchverJcshucJi), Elm (Spiel und 
 Arbeit) Seidel and Schmidt (Arheitsschule), Fellner (For- 
 vienarbeiteii) and Georgens {Das geometrische Ausschmiden) 
 afforded valuable hints ; moreover, several institutions, such 
 as the Dresden School - Workshops, many schools for 
 children of defective pov/ers, and a number of Children's 
 Homes, had endeavoured to realise in practice the 
 suggestions made. 
 
 Nor had similar efforts been wanting in the northern 
 countries ; the same desire for more elementary work had 
 been operative there for some years. But whilst in 
 Germany the material adopted for the transition stage had 
 been chiefly paper and cardboard, or, in a limited measure, 
 straw, cane, and shavings, in the north they still clung 
 to wood as the most appropriate substance with which 
 even the younger boys could work. Eva Eodhe ^ of 
 Gothenburg, and Vera Hjelt^ of Helsingfors, have drawn 
 up and published a complete course of wood-work for 
 children of from five to ten years of age. In like manner, 
 Aksel Mikkelsen makes children who have passed their 
 fifth year begin exercises in wood. Nor can it be denied 
 that it is extremely desirable and advantageous to offer 
 even our younger boys wood to work with in a suitable 
 way; even though it is, in our judgment, necessary that 
 they should first have tried their strength on some 
 material, such as paper or cardboard, which offers less 
 resistance, and so have prepared themselves in a sense 
 
 ■• Eva Rodhe, Modellserien fiir Holzslojd. 
 - Vera Hjelt, Slojdldrarcn for de smd.
 
 Introduction 9 
 
 for work of greater difficulty. Now, as the three northern 
 advocates of Easy Wood-Work introduce too many tools — 
 Mikkelseu, indeed, employs bench-work tools which can be 
 used with profit only by boys of thirteen or fourteen — 
 and as they consequently set the child to tasks which are 
 too advanced for its years, we cannot in Germany follow 
 their lead, whilst we recognise, nevertheless, the value of 
 wood as a material even for very young boys. Thus we 
 are driven to devising for ourselves such forms of 
 wood-work as require hut fetu tools, and as are not be- 
 yond the 2J0Uiers and ideas of hoifs from eight to eleven years 
 of age. 
 
 The merit of taking the first step in this direction 
 belongs to Herr Kalb of Gera. In the Knabenhort which 
 he controls, he caused small objects to be made from pine 
 twigs and split firewood. Specimens of the work so pro- 
 duced were exhibited by him to the meeting at Eisenach, 
 of which mention has already been made. Soon afterwards 
 they were examined and discussed by the Berlin Associa- 
 tion of Schoolmasters for Encouraging Manual Training. 
 The work was much approved, and, at the suggestion of 
 the Association, the Easy Exercises in Wood were adopted in 
 the winter plan of the Berlin workshops (1891-92) as a 
 " Second Preparatory Stage " for boys from eight to eleven 
 years old. The many applications from pupils to be 
 allowed to take the course was the best proof possible that 
 it supplied a general want. 
 
 At the outset these elementary courses were based on 
 Herr Kalb's designs. Alterations and additions were 
 gradually introduced by the various teachers of the sub- 
 ject. The work done in the winter half-year was well 
 received by the public, to whom every Easter an exhibition 
 of the products of our workshops is opened. At the 
 eleventh German Congress for Educational Handicraft, 
 held at Frankfurt am Main in 1892, the examples of 
 our " Easy Wood-Work " offered for inspection gained 
 the approval of experts. In the two years which have
 
 lo Easy Wood -Work 
 
 elapsed since then, our system has been more fully 
 developed. "We have not only increased the number of 
 our models, and so given greater variety to the work, 
 but we have also endeavoured to arrange them in a 
 certain sequence according to the method of construction. 
 In ordering them, we have been governed by the pedagogic 
 principles — " From the easy to the difficult," and " From 
 the simple to the composite." The gradation we have 
 thus obtained, extending now to more than two hundred 
 models, was again highly appreciated at the Danzig Con- 
 gress in the present year, where, as at Frankfurt, our 
 specimens were exhibited. 
 
 Even before that exhibition many Manual teachers had 
 expressed a wish that the Berlin " Easy Wood-Work " 
 should be made accessible to other institutions. And as 
 at Danzig that wish was found to be general, the Associa- 
 tion felt bound to meet it. We therefore appointed a 
 commission to publish, in text and plates, the course as 
 arranged at Berlin. The text gives, in a few brief words, 
 the explanations necessary for the construction of the 
 object. The dimensions suggested need not in every case 
 be exactly observed ; nevertheless it will be advisable, in 
 general, to maintain the proportions indicated by those 
 dimensions, because they correspond in some degree to 
 reality. We give the sketches, which, in default of a 
 model, supply the idea of the object, on separate plates. 
 They can thus be mounted and hung up in the workshop 
 or school-room. 
 
 It will readily be understood that the course here pre- 
 scribed need not under all circumstances be followed 
 undeviatingly. Eather will the thoughtful teacher here 
 and there, as occasion and locality require, omit or change 
 a task, or substitute some' other object. The little book is, 
 above all, intended to furnish the teacher with an oppor- 
 tunity of becoming acquainted with this form of elementary 
 work, in order that he may test it with boys of the age 
 set down. The employment is quite in keeping with the
 
 httroduction 1 1 
 
 nature of children, who, from their earliest years, love to 
 hammer and to cut. And experience has shown that boys 
 apply themselves to the work with zest and delight. We 
 trust, then, that the book will not only find admission into 
 school-workshops. Boys' Homes, and educational institutions 
 generally, but that it will be a welcome counsellor to boys 
 who have already gained some knowledge of the means of 
 self-employment. 
 
 We would here anticipate the objection which now and 
 then is raised, that no educational value attaches to this 
 simple work. Our conviction, ratified by experience, is 
 that these elementary courses are well calculated to exert 
 that beneficial influence which is claimed for all well- 
 directed Manual Work. Our " Easy Wood- Work " teaches 
 the child chiefly to make toys, and to reproduce on a small 
 scale what he sees about hin in life. Every student of 
 child-nature, and every observer of children's games, will 
 bear witness that what we offer is just what the child wants, 
 that it suits its natural impulses. But this wood-work 
 does not merely gratify, it also requires accurate observa- 
 tion of the things of everyday life ; it stimulates the 
 imagination in the right degree ; it requires careful 
 measurement, correctness in estimating, a skilful handling 
 of knife and hammer. It makes the young hand dexterous, 
 and awakens a sense for symmetrical and beautiful shapes. 
 The simple tasks bring the goal of accomplishment near, 
 and the possibility of speedily attaining it delights the 
 little workman, strengthens his will, and draws his mind 
 from the visionary to the possible. 
 
 In an Appendix we present, for the sake of complete- 
 ness, a course in paper, cardboard, and stick work, forming 
 the " First Preparatory Stage " in the Berlin school-work- 
 shops. The work so suggested is intended to follow 
 immediately the practical " occupations " of the Kinder- 
 garten, and to lead up to the " Easy Wood-Work " which 
 is our " Second Preparatory Stage." 
 
 We give, then, our little book to publicity, witli tlie hope
 
 12 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 that it will contribute its share to the internal develop- 
 ment of Manual Training, a discipline which daily gains 
 wider recognition, and attracts new adherents to its 
 support. 
 
 The Commission of the Association, 
 LIPS, FRENKEL, GRANBERG, GROPPLER, ROSENBERG. 
 
 Berlin, September 1S94.
 
 Of the Manner of Carrying on 
 the Work 
 
 To carry on Easy Wood-Work requires neither costly 
 fittings, nor numerous and expensive tools. Any ordinary 
 table can be converted into a work-table, by laying on it a 
 board planed smooth. It is advisable to secure the board 
 to the table by screw-clamps (wood screws). If there 
 is a special room for a considerable number of boys avail- 
 able, we lay planks, 60 to 70 cm. wide, across wooden 
 trestles. A sketch of one of these trestles, which resemble 
 the vaulting-blocks used in gymnasiums, is given in Plate 7, 
 Fig. 16. The height of the trestles must vary according 
 to the size of the boys. As the boys stand whilst working, 
 the satisfactory height for those of from eight to ten years of 
 age will, in general, be 75-85 cm. If the work-table is too 
 high, the boy cannot bring his full strength to bear as he 
 cuts. To stand firmly, the trestles nmst have four legs. 
 Eight of these trestles, together with four planks, each .3 m. 
 long, would cost about £3 or £3, 10s. If we 'wish to 
 adapt the school-room during out-of-school hours to a 
 workshop, we may lay the planks across the desks, or still 
 better, we may place low wooden stands on the forms, and 
 rest the planks on these. Such arrangements are found in 
 at least three of the Berlin school-workshops. 
 
 The tools needed are — knife, hammer, bradawl, ruler, 
 pincers, fretsaw, file, compasses, and sawing-board. Each 
 pupil must have the first four of these ; of the others a 
 certain number will suffice for the whole class or divi- 
 sion. 
 
 13
 
 1 4 Easy Wood - Work 
 
 "Various forms of knife have been recommended. Any 
 ordinary pocket-knife will serve the purpose ; but best 
 of all are the two patterns of Sh'ijd knife. In 
 Fig. 1 we show a knife such as basket-makers use ; 
 it is very suitable for our work, and costs in 
 Germany about 9d. 
 
 If the work is to be successful, the knives must 
 constantly be kept sharp. They are best and 
 most easily sharpened on a grindstone. In the 
 absence thereof we may use a quadrangular 
 '^'' piece of sandstone — what is called in Germany 
 a Eutscher. The price of a Eutscher is 2s. 6d. 
 
 When the knives have been ground, they must be set 
 on an oilstone (price Is.). Let the children see how this 
 operation is performed. 
 
 As in Easy Wood-Work only small nails and brads are 
 employed, a little hammer costing lOd. will suffice. 
 
 To make holes, choose a bradawl at a price of 3d. 
 The handle should not be too small. The use of the 
 bradawl is to bore holes for nails, which thus receive 
 their true direction, while the splitting of the wood is 
 avoided. 
 
 Eulers must be of firm wood, and marked with 
 centimetre divisions. A length of 25 to 30 cm. will be 
 enough. (Price, per dozen, 6s.) 
 
 To pull out bent nails or those which have gone askew, 
 we need pincers (price Is.), or flat-jawed pliers (price 8d.). 
 If the pincers have sharp edges, we can use them to nip 
 off projecting points of nails. But we usually have special 
 7ii])]3ers for the purpose. We may also beat over projecting 
 points with the hammer; when this is done, a strip of 
 hoop-iron, 8 cm. long, or indeed any piece of iron, 
 placed under the head of the nail, will render good 
 service. 
 
 The dearest tool is the fretsaw, and it would be a 
 mistake to stint expenditure when buying it. The cheap 
 kinds become unfit for use in a very short time. For
 
 Of the Manner of Carrying on the Work i 5 
 
 3 s. we can get a good, durable fretsaw frame (Fig. 2). 
 
 The complete tool consists of the frame (a), the two 
 
 screw-clamps {It), the handle (c), 
 
 and the blade {d). The frame 
 
 may be of wood, steel, or iron. 
 
 Wooden frames are for the most 
 
 part to be preferred to iron. The 
 
 former are, it is true, dearer than 
 
 the latter, but they last longer. 
 
 For our purpose, a size measured 
 
 from one screw - clamp to the 
 
 other, of 20-25 cm., will be 
 
 long enough. Very serviceable are the iron frames which 
 
 have the two arms close together, and are so contrived 
 
 that the saw-blade may project above the upper clamp. 
 
 Thus, if a piece of the blade becomes broken off, the whole 
 
 need not be thrown away. 
 
 Each clamp has two cheeks, ribbed on the inside. The 
 blade of the saw is gripped between the two cheeks by 
 means of a screw. As the clamps generally end in a 
 screw, the distance between them can be varied. The 
 lower clamp is connected with the wooden handle. The 
 blade is a strip of steel, the thickness of which varies 
 according to circumstances. The teeth are all inclined in 
 the same direction. Nos. 2 and 3 are the fretsaw blades 
 which are most suitable for Easy Wood-Work. 
 
 To fix the blade in position, press the upper arm of the 
 frame against the edge of the table, so that the clamps 
 move toward each other. Then screw the blade tightly in 
 at top and bottom, in such a w\ay that tlie teeth point 
 outwards and downwards towards the handle. To screw 
 the clamps tightly up, use the pliers. 
 
 For the proper use of the fretsaw for all purposes 
 we also need a cutting-board, on which the wood to be 
 sawed lies. The usual form of cutting board, as shown in 
 Fig. 3, consists of a board 20-24 cm. long, and 12—15 
 cm. wide (beech or alder is the best wood), with a
 
 i6 
 
 Easy Wood - Work 
 
 triangular piece cut out. This board is joined by a 
 dovetail to a firm handscrew, by means of which it can 
 
 be fixed on to any ordinary 
 table. The price of a 
 cutting-board with strong 
 handscrew is Is. 
 
 As in case of careless 
 usage by the boy the arm 
 in which the screw works 
 is likely to split, we have 
 caused cutting - boards to 
 be constructed without 
 handscrews (Fig. 4). In 
 these the board («) rests 
 on a fairly stout stand Qj), 
 20 cm. long, which at its upper end has a dovetail 
 incision to receive the cross-strip (c). The board is joined 
 
 both to the stand and 
 to the cross - strip by 
 screws. The stand has 
 two wooden bars mor- 
 tised into it (two 
 tenons with open mor- 
 tises). The upper of 
 these has two incisions 
 made to receive the 
 wooden wedges (ee). 
 The bars lie, one above, 
 the other below, the 
 top of the work-table, 
 and the whole cutting- 
 board is held in position by means of the wedges. To 
 prevent the wedges from being lost, they may be attached 
 to the stand by chains, as shown in the sketch. 
 
 If the planks on which the boys work lie free on 
 wooden trestles, a cutting-board may be used of the pattern 
 shown in Fig. 5. At such a cutting-board two boys can
 
 Of the Manner of Carrying on the Work 1 7 
 
 work at the same time. A piece of board, 15-20 cm. 
 wide, and 40 cm. longer than the breadth of the work-table. 
 
 n, r. 
 
 has a triangular incision made at either end, and on its 
 longer sides is pared away (bevelled) ; 20 cm. from the 
 end of the board we screw on a strip of wood with a 
 projecting ledge (a). Another strip (6), the construction 
 of which will be plain from the drawing, fits over the other 
 end of the board, but so that it can be moved to and fro. 
 The latter strip is set as the width of the work-table 
 requires, then secured in its position by a wedge (c). 
 
 During the sawing the left hand holds the wood that is 
 being cut firmly on to the cutting-board. The blade of the 
 saw must be worked gently up and down in the cut (cerf) 
 in a vertical direction. Care must be taken that the saw 
 is not pressed hard and not turned sidewards. 
 
 The troublesome dust produced by fretsaw work has 
 caused many protests to be raised against the use of this tool 
 in Manual Work for boys. As with us the fretsaw is only 
 an auxiliary, as it is only used to cut the outlines- of the 
 boards used in various pieces of work, there can be no 
 question of such an amount of dust as to be injurious co 
 health. Perforated work, fretsaw work proper, is excluded 
 from our course. If a saw called a " marquetry " saw, 
 having a much thicker blade than the common fretsaw, 
 is employed, the quantity of the dust is considerably 
 diminished. 
 
 To set out the outlines of the little boards, the pupil 
 sometimes needs a pair of compasses, best with a lead 
 .pencil fitted in. The boys must bring their own compasses, 
 as also lead pencils. Or we may buy, as part of the fitting
 
 I 8 Easy Wood - Work 
 
 out of the workshop, a pair of true, carefully-made iron 
 compasses with steel points. 
 
 It must be a strictly observed rule that the pupils 
 draw for themselves — they must not trace from patterns — 
 whatever has to be drawn in the course of the work. 
 Where curves and undulating lines occur which cannot be 
 described with the compasses, they must be drawn with 
 the unassisted hand. We naturally do not make very 
 great demands on a child's skill in this direction. 
 
 The file is an instrument made of hardened steel, its 
 surface being broken by a number of small cuts. The 
 steel is fitted into a handle. The tool is used to remove 
 inequalities on cut surfaces. We employ for our work 
 either the half-round tile {^^^^), or the flat wood-file with 
 rectangular cross-section (ru). In filing, the board is 
 held fast on the table with the left hand, in such a way 
 that the edge to be smoothed is parallel to the edge of the 
 table, and projects somewhat beyond it. The last polish 
 is given to a cut surface with sand or glass paper. The 
 paper is sold under various numbers, No. being the finest. 
 We use Nos. 1, 2, and 3. The best plan is to wrap the 
 sandpaper about a smoothly planed board, hold the board 
 firmly on the work-table, and pass the edge to be finished 
 to and fro over it. The paper may also be sunply laid on 
 the level table and the same process pursued. 
 
 To test the accuracy of a right angle on a sawed board, 
 a try square should be employed. Such a square consists 
 of two wooden arms (or one wooden and one steel arm) 
 set immovably at a true right angle. 
 
 The Easy Wood- Work of the Berlin school-workshops 
 falls into two sections : — 
 
 (1) Work done with "natural" wood (in the winter 
 
 half-year). 
 
 (2) Work done with split-wood and thin boards (in 
 
 the summer half-year). 
 The requisite material can easily be procured any- 
 where.
 
 Of the Manner of Cai'rying on the Work 19 
 
 By " natural " wood, we mean twigs just as they are 
 taken from trees and shrubs. The willow, the alder, the 
 hazel, the pine, as also our fruit-trees, all yield suitable 
 material. It will be well at the commencement to work 
 with the softest possible wood, and not to pass to the 
 harder kinds until later, when the hand of the pupil has 
 gained more skill. Twigs with a wide medullary sheath 
 are not suitable for Easy Wood-Work, as they easily split, 
 and nails do not get a firm grip in them. If the nails 
 are to be knocked into the sheath, little wedges about the 
 thickness of a match must first be driven into the pith ; 
 otherwise, the nails will not hold. 
 
 The twigs cut from trees and shrubs in the late autumn 
 should be bought up, left for some time to dry, and then 
 used. If wood is green when worked, it afterwards dries 
 and shrinks, and the objects made with it are ruined. 
 That is why w^ork from " natural " wood is done in winter, 
 when the twigs have had time to dry. 
 
 Cane, the thin twigs of the calamus rotang, is also well 
 suited for our purpose, since, in consequence of its pliancy, 
 it allows a freer treatment of form. Its comparatively 
 high price is, however, a restriction upon its extensive 
 employment. 
 
 For work with split-wood, pieces of dry red or white 
 deal, free from knots, such wood as is used by the cooper, 
 will be fovmd best. The boys receive pieces 10, 15, or 
 30 cm. long, and as thick as ordinary firewood chips, to be 
 split by them into smaller sticks. To smooth the chips, 
 use file and sandpaper. Or they may be scraped with a 
 piece of glass ; but then great care is requisite, for the 
 glass may break and cut the hand. 
 
 Small wire nails or brads serve to join the sticks 
 together. The two first sizes are generally needed, 13 
 mm. and 20 mm.; only in rare cases larger sizes, 25-30 
 mm. The nails are bought by the packet at a trifling 
 cost. The rule should be : If you drive a nail into the 
 pith, take a long one, and first wedge the pith as we have
 
 20 
 
 Easy Wood-WoTk 
 
 explained. If two sticks are to be nailed to each other 
 across and through the pith, choose a shorter nail and 
 hammer the point over, the head resting on a strip of iron. 
 Often you must drive two nails in for the sake of greater 
 firmness. 
 
 With some objects — for ex- 
 ample, with those shown in 
 Figs. 34, 58, and 59 — it is 
 necessary to hang the work on 
 a frame, so that whilst knocking 
 a nail into one side we may 
 avoid pressing the other together. 
 For this purpose we avail our- 
 selves of the outer part of a 
 wooden handscrew (Fig. 6). 
 Lacking that, we may simply 
 lay a long four-edged stick (6) 
 over the work-table (a) so that 
 it projects some 20 cm. at 
 either side. The stick is fastened 
 in the middle to the table by a nail (Fig. 8). 
 
 To allow ourselves to introduce greater variety into our 
 work, whether it be done with " natural " or with split wood, 
 we bring into service small boards cut with the fretsaw. 
 The wood most suitable for these is alder, lime, or maple. 
 But birch, walnut, and the wood of many fruit trees may 
 also be used, as also cigar boxes, the wood of the Virginian 
 cedar. Most frequently we choose alder, 3—5 mm. thick, 
 and planed on both sides. A list of woods with prices is 
 contained in Herr Kalb's book, to which reference has 
 before been made. 
 
 Special sticks may be bought for certain kinds of work, 
 at a cost of 6d. a hundred. 
 
 An improved appearance may be given to the work by 
 bronzing, colouring, or applying a Waldmosaik (see A. 
 Fig. 55), or by using brass-headed nails and ribbons. 
 Some objects may be interwoven with strips of coloured
 
 Of the Manner of Carrying on the Work 2 i 
 
 paper, or bast ; others, such as cradles, beds, tents, etc., 
 may be covered with cotton stuff. 
 
 Gold bronze is obtained either in glass tubes or in small 
 packets. In the former case, water is used as a solvent ; 
 in the latter, a special " bronze tincture." When dissolved, 
 the bronze is spread on the work with a small soft camel's 
 hair brush. Water "gilding" has to be laid on in a 
 double coat, and does not last so well as bronzing with the 
 tincture. 
 
 The only wood that is coloured is split - wood, or 
 " natural " wood from which the bark has been stripped. 
 For colouring we use brunoline, aniline, or wood stains. 
 These should be bought in fluid form as they are 
 required. 
 
 Decoration by means of Walchnosaik, if it is to be 
 successful, calls for both practice and taste. If such 
 ornamentation is to produce a good effect, it must be 
 applied sparingly. Suitable for the purpose are : dried 
 grasses, lichens, mosses, birch bark, acorns, beechnuts, the 
 scales of fir cones, or small cones, which again may also be 
 bronzed and wound about with ribbons and bows. 
 
 As many teachers desire to know the cost of an outfit 
 for a class or division of pupils, we append an estimate 
 for twenty-four pupils engaged in Easy Wood- Work. 
 
 d. 
 
 Eight (or four) wooden trestles, with four 
 
 boards to lay over them 
 One large saw .... 
 
 Half-dozen cutting-boards, @ Is. 
 Half-dozen fretsaw frames, @ 3s. 
 Two dozen knives, @ 10s. 6d. per doz. 
 Two dozen hammers, @ 10s. per doz . 
 One dozen bradawls, @ 3s. per doz. . 
 Two dozen rulers, @ 6s. per doz. 
 One pair pincers .... 
 Two pairs flat-jawed pliers, @ 8d. each 
 
 from 3 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 
 
 
 
 18 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 4
 
 22 
 
 Easy Wood - Work 
 
 One " Paitscher " . . . . 
 
 One oilstone ..... 
 One gross fretsaws (blades), @ lOcl. per doz 
 Sandpaper ..... 
 Wii'e nails or brads (small sizes) 
 
 £ s. 
 
 d. 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 10 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 
 
 
 
 8
 
 Course 
 
 [Kote. — The numbers express the dimensions in centimetres. 
 L = length ; B = breadth; H = height.) 
 
 A. Work MviVci Wood in its 
 Natural State. 
 
 (Plates I-VI.) 
 
 1st Group. — The Cutting of Simple Sticks. 
 
 Preliminary Exercises : («) The pupils cut several 
 sticks, 3 cm. long. The twig just as brought from the 
 garden is laid on the table ; the left hand, which holds 
 the twig, must not touch the table. The knife is pressed 
 down vertically with the right hand, the twig rolled 
 forward with the left hand. If the stick is very thick, 
 we may make in the same way an incision all round it, 
 then snap off with the fingers. The cut surfaces nuist be 
 smoothed. (Practice in vertical cutting of a stick.) 
 
 {h) Several sticks 10 cm. long are cut, and pointed like 
 pencils. The left hand grasps the " pencil," the right 
 makes the cuts in a direction away from the body. 
 
 (c) The pencil lies in the left hand, its head on the 
 thumb. The knife in the right hand, directed tcnoards 
 the body, shapes the point. (Practice in pointing.) 
 
 Fig. 1. Flower-stick. — H. 25. The stick is measured 
 with the rule and cut oft" to the length desired ; a long point 
 is made at the l~»()ttom ; the top is rounded oft"; below the
 
 24 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 top a notch is cut all round. (Head and neck.) In use the 
 long point is thrust into the earth, the flowers are tied to 
 the stick. Thus the thicker part of the stick should be the 
 part towards the bottom, where greater strength is required. 
 
 Fig. 2. Pemion. — H. 25. The stick receives "head and 
 neck," as in Fig. 1 ; it is split for about 7 cm. of its length, 
 and a piece of coloured paper cut into a swallow's tail is 
 inserted in the slit ; nail together with two nails ; hammer 
 down the points of the nails. The paper may also be glued 
 to the stick. Use to decorate the Christmas tree. 
 
 Fig. 3. Baniier. - — H. 25; cross-piece L. 7. Make 
 " head and neck " ; glue a paper flag to the cross-piece ; 
 hang cross-piece to neck with thin twine. 
 
 Fig. 4. Dari. — L. 30. The point may be made with a 
 headless nail or a bit of wire pointed. Be careful where 
 you throw your dart ! At the top two slits are made at 
 right angles to each other to a depth of 5 cm., and the 
 folded paper inserted therein. ^ To make the paper part, 
 take a piece of paper 1 2 cm. square ; fold it over in the 
 diagonals and middle lines to right and left ; now lay 
 either the adjacent or the opposite corners on one another. 
 
 2nd Group. — The Nailing on of Simple Sticks. 
 
 Fig. 5. St. Anthonys Cross. — H. 15, B. 9. The cross- 
 piece is fastened on to the upright with a long nail. The 
 pith of the upright must receive small wooden wedges. 
 (Explain Latin cross, Greek cross, St. Andrew's cross.) 
 
 Fig. 6. Latin Cross. — H. 20, B. 8. A round notch can 
 be made in one stick, so that the other may rest firmly in 
 it. Fasten with two nails. 
 
 Fig. 7. Interlaced Hurdle. — L. 20, H. 14. The thin 
 ends of willow twigs, useful for nothing else, are employed 
 for interlacing. Put two feet on. 
 
 Fig. 8. Stand for flower-iMs.- — L. 13, B. 9. The sticks 
 nailed one on the other at right angles. Use two nails at 
 each joint.
 
 The Nailing on of Simple Sticks 25 
 
 F'kj. 9. Plant-ladder to train plants on. H. 38, B. 24, 
 19, 14. 
 
 Firj. 10. Hurdle. — L, 24, H. 13. Four hurdles placed 
 together make an enclosure in which sheep may be penned. 
 (Tell some Christmas story about sheep.) 
 
 Fig. 11. Fenee.—L. 14, B. 15. 
 
 Figs. 12a and 12h. Easels. — H. 19, B. above 11, 
 below 14. In Fig. b the support is movable. In order 
 to insert a picture or photograph, knock into the lower 
 cross-piece two nails, say, brass-headed ones. 
 
 Fig. 13. Fascl with three vertical pieces. H. 20, B. 13, 
 16. If we have very thick sticks, we may cut the tops 
 obliquely (as in sketch). The picture may be pasted 
 on to a round piece of cardboard, or board (cut with the 
 fretsaw). 
 
 Fig. 14. Saw-horse. — Four sticks of equal length (L. 11) 
 are nailed together, two by two, with a long nail ; the rail 
 end, coming through, goes into the cross-piece (L. 8). 
 Base as shown. 
 
 Fig. 15. Fruit-haskct. — The bottom is a square board 
 of 7 cm. side (cut with fretsaw). Upon this, along two 
 opposite sides, are nailed sticks (L. 11): on these sticks 
 others (L. 12), and so on. The handle is formed by means 
 of a twig bent as in the sketch. 
 
 Fig. 16. Frame with double sticks. H. 14, B. 12. 
 Ornamental at top. In order to insert a picture, three 
 sticks pared away obliquely are nailed on behind. 
 
 Fig. 17, a-e. Letters (HAF'EN = harhonv). These letters 
 may be nailed on a light-coloured board. H. 8. 
 
 3rd Group. — Nailing Simple Sticks 
 between Others. 
 
 Fig. 18. Ladder for tree-frog^ glass. — L. 18, B. of 
 rungs 4. Wedges in pith part. First nail in position 
 
 ^ The European tree-frog (Hyla arborea), used in some parts of Europe as 
 a weather guide.
 
 26 Easy Wood-\Vo7-k 
 
 the end rungs and the middle one ; then distribute the 
 others. 
 
 Fig. 19. Bier.—L. 17, B. 4^, H. of legs 2. 
 
 Fig. 20. Post-card holder. — "h. 21, B. 9, 11, H. of front 
 part 9, B. 10. 
 
 Fig. 21. Letter rack (to be hung up). — H. 20, B. 12. 
 
 Fig. 22a and 22h. Lettei^-racks (to stand on table). — 
 a. L. 15, B. 8, H. 12 (compare Fig. 14).— &. L. 15, B. 11, 
 H. 9. In the case of 1), cut the supports off obliquely at 
 the bottom that they may rest firmly on the base. 
 
 4th Group. — Half-lapping of Sticks and Staying, 
 
 Fig. 23, Winder. — L. and B. 14. Both sticks are cut 
 in the middle in the direction of the thickness until the 
 pith is reached. Compare Fig. 74, Plate IX. The sticks, 
 firmly nailed, must lie flat ; otherwise, adjust by cutting 
 deeper. The object is used for winding string. 
 
 Fig. 24. Knife-rest. — L. of the cross-piece 8, H. of 
 crosses 4. A long nail passes through each cross into the 
 cross-piece. 
 
 Fig. 25. Finger-post. — B. of lower cross 12, H. of upright 
 16, of the stays 7| ; the last are cut away obliquely at the 
 ends. (Bevelling.) The finger part is of paper, card- 
 board, or wood. Write name to show use. 
 
 Fig. 26. Cliinbing-framc. — B. 20, H. 16. The climbing- 
 poles are represented by wooden skewers such as are 
 employed in cork and pea work. (See Appendix.) 
 
 Fig. 27. Swing. — L. 10, B. 10, H. 16. 
 
 Fig. 28. Bailings ivith Sign-jjost.- — L. 22, H. of railing 
 6 1, of sign-post 13. The sketch shows two ways in which 
 railings may be joined to make a fence. 
 
 Fig. 29. Table. — Top has carved outline (3 arcs of 
 circle). Draw an equilateral triangle of 8 cm. side. 
 On each side describe a semicircle. H. of upright 8. 
 
 Fig. 30. T'rm^i^/c (for winding string, etc.). — Three equal 
 sticks. L. 14. Oblique half-lapping.
 
 Half - lapping of Sticks and Staying 27 
 
 Fig. 31. Music-stand. — B. of cross 7, H. 8. Upper 
 square half-lapped at corners (lap-jointed). L. 5, B. 4. 
 Drive a long nail from below through the join of the cross 
 into the upright. 
 
 Fig. 32. Dish-stand. — L. of cross-piece 10, L. of legs 9. 
 Upper quadrilateral, L. 10, B. 4i. Drive long nails 
 through the lap-joints into the legs. Serves as a stand for 
 dishes ; or in the stable, to hold harness. 
 
 Fig. 33. Mirror. — B. IG, H. 21. A piece of "wood- 
 pulp " is laid behind the mirror-glass. (Press the nails 
 carefully in ; do not hammer.) The handle is split into 
 half behind the glass, and nailed on at top and bottom. 
 L. 25. 
 
 Fig. 34. Garden-fence. — L. 24, B. 15, H. of fence 7i, of 
 gate 7. Gate hinges of leather. 
 
 Fig. 35. Double fra7ne.—L. 18, H. 12. 
 
 5th Group. — Splitting Sticks. 
 
 Fir/s. 36ft and 36h. Geometrical Patterns. — In splitting 
 the sticks, care is to be taken that the twig is divided into 
 two parts as nearly as possible equal. As soon as we see 
 that one part is thicker than the other, we press with the 
 back of the knife against the thinner half. The rule then 
 is : Always press the back of the blade outwards away from 
 the half which begins to grow the thicker. Practise 
 splitting. In order that the split pieces which are left 
 after practice may not be wasted, they are nailed on to 
 boards in various patterns. The boards so decorated will 
 serve as stands for flower-pots. In 36« there are 9 
 squares. L. of outside edge 9. L. in 6 10. 
 
 Fig. 37. Garden - fence. — First cut the two upright 
 sticks, L. 20 ; then cut the two horizontal ones and split 
 them; L. 15, L. of rails 14. 
 
 Fig. 38. Bridge railing. — H. 16, B. 15. The sticks 
 which cross each other obliquely, are split. L. of latter 
 16. For the use of this object see Fig. 49, Plate III.
 
 28 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Figs. 39« and 39&. TaWe, rectangular. — a. L. 15, B. 11, 
 H. 8. The top is formed of split twigs. (In the sketch 
 only half is covered.) In h the top is a board. L. 20, 
 B. 12, H. 9. 
 
 Fig. 40. Chair. — H. of seat 6, H. of back 13, B. 6. 
 
 Fig. 41. Garden-seat. — L. 18, B. 5 J, H. of back 13. 
 Make the seat first. 
 
 Fig. 42. Watch-stand. — H. 15, B. 8. 
 
 Fig. 43. Frame. — Take good stout sticks and split 
 them. Cross-pieces, L. 19. Uprights, L. 20 and 18. 
 
 Fig. 44. Wheelbarrow. — L. of the beams 14, B. 4, H. of 
 sloping part 3 J. The wheel is sawed out of a piece of 
 board, and has a square axle. 
 
 Fig. 45. Steijs.—L. 12, B. 6, H. 2|, 5, 7^, 10. 
 
 Fig. 46. Fodder-trough. — L. of side-pieces, which cross 
 each other obliquely, 14, B. 8. To feed the deer. 
 
 Fig. 47. Floiuer-tahle, quadrilateral. — H. 32, edge of top 
 14. The top is first nailed together, then the hole is 
 chiselled in the middle. By the hole nail two pieces 
 across to secure the sticks which have been cut through 
 by the chisel. 
 
 Fig. 48. Sand-sieve or trap-door. — L. 19, B. 13, H. 27. 
 The sand sieve is placed slopingly, and the mixed gravel 
 and sand thrown on it. The smaller grains fall through. 
 A trap-door of the form shown is often found in the 
 country districts of Germany. How it falls will be seen 
 from the sketch. 
 
 Fig. 49. Bridge. — L. 18, B. 6, H. of the posts 12. 
 First make the foot-way, then nail the posts on. 
 
 Fig. 50. Watch-stand. — L. 14, B. 12, H. 16. A round 
 piece of plush may be glued on under the hook. 
 
 Fig. 51. Portfolio for journals, etc. — L. of back 20, B. 16, 
 L. of flap 20, B. 15. 
 
 Fig. 52. Flower-stand, round. Top sawed from a board. 
 Diameter 15, H. 32. Treble staying. 
 
 Fig. 53. Garden-table. — L. of crossed legs 11, L. of top 
 12, B. 9.
 
 Nailing Crosszvise 29 
 
 Fvj. 54. Garden-chair. — L. of back and leg together 11, 
 of leg alone 8, B. of chair 5i. 
 
 Fig. 55. Wall ornament with match -hox in middle. — 
 Set out pattern on a thin board. B. 15, H. 23. Nail 
 the split sticks on. Saw the outline out. Fix the support 
 for the match-box. In the open spaces of the pattern glue 
 dry lichens, moss, birch bark, fir cone scales, acorns, etc. 
 (See Part II.) 
 
 6th Group. — Nailing Crosswise. 
 
 Fig. 56. Quadrangular 'prism. — L. 5, B. 5, H. 10. Two 
 rails cross each other at right angles at the points of 
 nailing, A very simple means of joining. Take nails 
 2|— 3 cm. long. Insert wedges in pith part of the 
 cross - pieces. Knock the nails carefully in, 1 cm. 
 from the end of each stick, so that the sticks maj^not 
 split. 
 
 Fig. 57. Blunted square pyramid. — H. 10, L. above 5, 
 below 6, B. as L. 
 
 Figs. 58a and 58&. Floiocr-hashets. — H. 8, B. above 8|, 
 below 5i. Fig. a shows three different ways of fastenmg 
 the side-pieces. In &, first make two opposite sides ; 
 then nail across pieces of the same length as those that 
 they cross ; lastly, nail in the bottom. The baskets 
 may be filled with moss, in which artificial flowers are 
 arranged. 
 
 Fig. 59. Friiit-haskct, quadrilateral. — L. 14, B. 10, H. 
 10. First nail the framework together, then nail the side- 
 pieces in. 
 
 Fig. 60. Booh-stand.—^. 20, L. above 7i, below 13i, 
 B. above 5, below 8. 
 
 Fig. 61. '' BhxVs nestr—h. 10, B. 10, H. 15. 
 
 Fig. 62. DolVs cradle.— L. 15, B. 9, H. 10. 
 
 Fig. 63. Doll's cradle, with trellis work. Bottom 
 interlaced with thin twigs. (Compare Fig. 7, Plate I.) 
 — L. 20, B. 11, H. 14.
 
 30 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Fig. 64. Writing-stand. — L. 16, B. 8, H. of back 9. 
 In the side-openings place two ink-bottles. The tray in 
 the middle is for pens. 
 
 Fig. 65. Market basket. — L. 11, B. 7, H. 9. 
 
 Fig. 66. Bedstead.— L. 18, B. 9, H. 10. 
 
 Fig. 67. Bedstead, bottom interlaced. — L. 20, B. 11, 
 H. 14. (Compare Fig. 63, Plate IV., and Fig. 7, 
 Plate I.) 
 
 Fig. 68. Lounge.— L. 16, B. 8, H. 8. 
 
 Fig. 69. Canopy-hed. — L. 16, B. 8, H. 14. A rude bed 
 of this form is found in German villages. 
 
 Fig. 70. Brush-hasket.—L. 7, B. 8, H. 21. 
 
 Fig. 71. Case for one hottlc. — L. 10, B. 10, H. 21. 
 Cut the bottom from " wood-pulp " or a piece of board. 
 
 Fig. 12. Case for four bottles.— L. 10, B. 10, H. 23. 
 Fix the cross (half -lapped) in position last. 
 
 i^. 73. Cruet-stand, ior salt and pepper. — L. 10, B. 15, 
 H. 21. Make the frame first; then nail the side pieces 
 iu. Bottom of " wood-pulp " or board. 
 
 Fig. 74. Flowei'-basket stand. — L. of bottom cross 12, 
 H. of stand 10, L. of basket, below 6i, above 8i, H. 10. 
 Bottom of wood. 
 
 Fig. 75. Triangular prism. — H. 10, B. 4. 
 
 Fig. 76. Triangidar prism vAth two round slabs. — H. 10, 
 B. 4. The slabs are sawed from a wood board. Diameter 
 4i. Will serve as a table. 
 
 Fig. 77. Triangidar bottle stand, prismatic, pyramid- 
 shaped at top. — L. of vertical sticks 15, distance apart 6. 
 
 Fig. 78. Triangidar pyramid. — H. 14, B. 5. 
 
 Fig. 79. Blunted triangidar p)yramid. — H. 12, B. below 
 7, above 4. 
 
 Fig. 80. Blunted triangular pyramid with three round 
 slabs. — H. 17, B. below 6, above 3. First make the 
 frame ; then nail the slabs in. Serves as an etagere. 
 
 Fig. 81. Three-legged stand (for arrangements of flowers). 
 — Nail the three feet together at the top with one long 
 nail. Spread two out at the front ; press one backwards.
 
 Nailing Crosswise 31 
 
 Fasten them in position by means of stays. Apply the 
 triangular pyramid at the front (point downwards). 
 
 Fig. 82. Egg-hashet, hexagonal. — H. 12, B. below 7, 
 above 8. 
 
 Fig. 83. Hanging -basket. (See Fig. 82). — Put a flower- 
 pot with some creeping plant inside and hang up by three 
 cords. The sticks forming the basket are nailed at the 
 bottom to a hexagonal board. 
 
 Fig. 84. Tent, hexagonal. — H. of uprights 15, B. 8, 
 L. of roof-supports 11. The hinges of the door are strips 
 of leather. 
 
 Fig. 85. Arhour.—l.. 16, B. 12, H. 14. 
 
 Fig. 86. Duster -Usket. — H. of front 12, of back 22, 
 L. of front at bottom 10, at top 11, of back at bottom 12, 
 at top 14, B. above 8, below 6. 
 
 Fig. 87. Fruit-basket, somewhat long, six-sided. — H. of 
 four uprights in the middle 7, H. of two outer-end sticks 
 9, B. in middle, at top 6 J, at bottom 6, at the side parts 
 B. at top 10 1, at bottom 6i. First nail the framework 
 together. 
 
 Figs. 88«. aMcl 88&. Round or hexagonal table, with three 
 legs. — H. 9, diameter of top (of board) 7. In b the strips 
 under the top are indicated by dotted lines. 
 
 Fig. 89. Garden shelter with double scat. — L. 17, B. 13, 
 H. 14, L. of sloping roof -timbers 7. 
 
 Fig. 90. Basket for worsted ball, with lid. — H. 9, B. at 
 bottom 6, at top 8. Frame as in Fig. 57. Last of all, 
 nail bottom (of " wood-pulp," board or sticks) in. The 
 lid consists of two cross-pieces on which split twigs are 
 nailed. 
 
 Fig. 91. Shore-basket. — B. 5, H. in front 13, behind 11. 
 [Fix door on and call toy bathing-machine.] 
 
 Fig. 92. Basket with lids. — L. at bottom 16, B. at 
 bottom 10|, H. of handle 24, H. of side-sticks 13, B. at 
 top 10|, L. of sloping sides measured sidewards from the 
 handle 1 1 : the covers must fit in ; they are fastened on 
 with strips of leather.
 
 32 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Fig. 93. Floiver-^M stand, With, three round slabs. — L, of 
 uprights 19, 13, 10. 
 
 Fig. ^4:. Block-Jiousc. — L. 20, B. 11, H. 18. First 
 make a strong frame-work. Cut the windows last of all. 
 The sketch exhibits the construction of the frame-work. 
 
 7th Group. — Cane Bending. 
 
 Fig. 95. Hexagonal basket. — H. 11, upper B. 7. To 
 be able to bend the cane, first beat it carefully with the 
 edge of the hammer. Short pieces are best bent with the 
 round-jawed pliers. 
 
 Fig. 96. Floiver-])ot basket. — H. 12, B. at bottom 5, at 
 top 6. Frame-work as in Fig. 57. 
 
 Fig. 97. Sjwiige-basket. — H. 13, B. at front 15. 
 
 Fig. 98. Candlestick. — Diameter 7; the round bottom 
 is cut from a board. 
 
 Fig. 99. Table, round, with three legs. — H. 7; diameter 
 at top 6. 
 
 Fig. 100. Chair.— H. of back 8, H. of seat 3i, B. 3. 
 
 Fig. 101. Match-liolder, in the form of a sledge. — L. 20, 
 B. 8. Put a match-box between the two cross bars. 
 
 Fig. 102. Smoker's eonvpanion. — L. of bottom (board) 23, 
 B. 15. The cigar-holder is hexagonal; the upper rim is 
 of cane bent angularly ; H. 9. To the left is the ash-tray, 
 with a small tin plate in the middle ; B. 8. To the right 
 there is a contrivance on which a match-box is fixed ; H. 7. 
 
 B. Work with Split -Wood and 
 Thin Boards. 
 
 (Plates VII. to X.) 
 
 1st Group. — Cutting of Simple Sticks. 
 
 Preliminary Exercises : («) Each pupil receives a piece 
 of wood (say, ordinary firewood) of about 10 cm. in length.
 
 Cutting of Simple Sticks 33 
 
 He splits from it three laths, about 2 mm. thick, holding 
 the wood with the left hand and pressing the knife in 
 with the right. Moving the knife slowly to and fro, and 
 at the same time pressing it on, causes the wood to split. 
 The pieces thus obtained are cut smooth with the knife ; 
 the direction of the knife is away from the body. Lay 
 the knife flat on the wood so that a long shaving is 
 detached. (Practice in splitting and smoothing short 
 sticks.) Thicker and longer pieces of wood are first split 
 with the axe into smaller sticks. 
 
 (V) " Pencil pointing " may again be practised at tliis 
 point. See exercises (b) and (c) in A. 
 
 (c) Vertical cutting through (across) a split stick may 
 be done, if the stick is thin, just as in the case of 
 " natural " wood. With a thick stick we must resort to 
 notching : lay the stick firmly on the table ; make a 
 vertical cut with the knife ; then notch to that cut from 
 either side. You will at last be able to break the stick. 
 The broken surfaces must be cut smooth. (Practice in 
 vertical and oblique cross-cutting of pieces of wood.) 
 
 Fifj. 1. Lath. — L. 10, B. 1. Take one of the laths 
 obtained by preliminary exercise («) ; split it to a breadtli 
 of 1 cm. and a thickness of 2 mm.; cut it smooth on 
 every side, and finish it with sandpaper. The paper is 
 conveniently left lying on the table, and the wood rubljed 
 to and fro upon it. The finished lath may be used in 
 making a fence, or, if a hole be made in it, as a tree- 
 label. 
 
 Fig. 2. Three -parts, for a mouse-trap. — L. 5, 5, 13, B. 1. 
 The sketch shows the make and notching of the sticks. 
 To the long one fasten a piece of bacon. The whole is 
 held together by the pressure of a l)rick. When the 
 mouse begins to nibble, the trap falls. (For reading 
 choose some story of mice.) 
 
 Fig. 3. Fude.—L. 25 to 30, B. 1 to Ih. Mark every 
 
 5 cm, with a straight notch, every 10 with one straight 
 
 and two oblique notches. 
 3
 
 34 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Fig. 4:. Plant-label— I.. 1 , B. 1| to 2. Cut the stick 
 smooth, round it at top and point it at bottom. The name 
 of the plant is written on it, and the label is stuck in the 
 flower-pot or flower-bed. 
 
 Fig. 5. Post, with square cross-section. — L. 12, B. 1. 
 It is employed in Fig. 12. 
 
 2nd Group. — Nailing on of Simple Sticks. 
 
 Fig. 6. " Soldier -shears." — L. of each stick 12, B. 1. 
 Knock in the nails exactly in the middle and 1 cm. from 
 the end. On the nails mount wooden soldiers ; then press 
 the free ends of the shears alternately together and apart. 
 If the soldiers are to wheel, the sticks must be nailed 
 together not in the middle, but 1 cm. to the right or the 
 left of it. 
 
 Fig. 7. Frog-ladder {^ee A, Fig. 18).— H. 16, B. 5. Tell 
 how the tree-frog is kept in a glass, and used as a weather 
 prophet. 
 
 Fig 8. Pair of stejjs. — H. 16, B. 5. Nail very fast with 
 two brads. 
 
 Fig. 9. Plant-ladder {for trdimng -plants). — H. 40, B. 19, 
 17, 15. 
 
 Fig. 10. Reading-desk. — B. 32, H. 20. Nail the front 
 piece of wood, on which the book rests, from the back. 
 
 Fig. 11. Stand for flower -jpots. — L. 10, B. 10. 
 
 Figs. 12« and 12b. Fence. — (a) B. 21, H. 19. (&) L. 
 of posts 19, of the railings 12, of the cross-bars 17. (The 
 latter may be let in to the posts.) 
 
 Fig. 13. Hurdle. — L. 16, H. 10. (Compare ^4, Fig. 10.) 
 
 Fig. 14. Folding chair. — L. of one part 12, of the other 
 15, B. of chair 5. The seat is made with a strip of cloth. 
 
 Fig. 15. Stving.—B.. 15, B. 10. 
 
 Fig. 16. Horse (a vaulting-block in a gymnasium). — 
 H. 6, B. 6. (Called, also, a trestle, when used as a support.) 
 
 Fig. 17. Fascl. — H. 15, B. at top 7, at bottom 9. 
 Make the support movable. L. of support 11^.
 
 Thinning aivay Sticks tozvards One or Both Sides 35 
 
 Fig. 18. Saiv-horsc. — L. of the pieces which cross each 
 other 8, of those which join them 8. 
 
 Fig. 19. Pa2)cr-l)asket. — H. 12, B. at bottom G, at top 5. 
 Bottom of board cut with a fretsaw. 
 
 3rd Group — Round Sticks. 
 
 Fig. 20. Stick to ivind string on {e.g. for kite-flying). — 
 L. 16. .First cut round with the knife, and then smooth 
 with sandpaper. 
 
 Fig. 21. Parcel carrier. — L. 16. Can also be used to 
 twist a cord tight, etc. 
 
 Fig. 22. Block to use in tightening the hoops of a cask. 
 — L. 25. 
 
 Fig. 23. Plant stick.— K. 30. 
 
 Fig. 24. Banner. — H. 25, L. of cross-piece 9. The paper 
 is glued round the cross-piece. Sometimes used for reserv- 
 ing places at a table. 
 
 4th Group. — Thinning away Sticks towards One 
 or Both Sides. 
 
 Fig. 25. Wedge. — L. 10, B. 2. Of frequent service in 
 fastening the handles of garden tools, hammers, axes, etc. 
 Large wedges are driven into blocks of timber in order to 
 split them. — Bound the upper edges of the wedge away. 
 It will then be more durable. Why ? 
 
 Fig. 26. Wooden nail (square cross section). — L. 10, 
 B. 1. Of frequent use in joining beams. The joiner bores 
 round holds in the beams, and drives into them square 
 wooden nails. (Why square ?) 
 
 Fig. 27. Round stick or 2)1 wj. — L. 12. 
 
 Fig. 28. Paint-brush handle. — L. 14. Thinned away 
 towards both ends. 
 
 Fig. 29. Bagger. — L. 22. May be used for opening letters. 
 
 Fig. 30. Sword. — L. 45, B. 3. For playing soldiers with.
 
 36 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 5th Group. — Application of Simple Boards 
 cut with the Fretsaw. 
 
 Ficj. 31. Kitchen-shelf.— V>. 10, H. 9, B. of the shelf 
 proper 3. The cross-pieces may be simply nailed on, 
 without cuts being made into which the uprights fit. 
 
 Fig. 32. TViMe, four-cornered, four-legged.- — L. of top 10, 
 B. 6, H. of legs 6. 
 
 Fig. 33. Chair.— R. of back 7, H. of front legs 3. The 
 seat is a square of 3 cm. side. 
 
 Fig. 34. Gcmlcn-seat. — L. 12, B. 3, H. of the legs 3, of 
 the back 7. 
 
 Fig. 35. Humming -tohe el. — A circle of wood, 7 cm. in 
 diameter, has two holes bored in it. Through these a 
 string is drawn. Take one end of the string in the right 
 hand, the other in the left. Spin the wheel round so that 
 the string winds itself up. Then draw out and let the 
 wheel hum. 
 
 Fig. 36. Table, round, three-legged. — Diameter of the 
 top 7, H. of legs 6. 
 
 Fig. 37. Stool. — Diameter of seat 3, H. of legs 3. 
 
 Fig. 38. Footstool. — L. of top 2>h, B. of same 2, H. of 
 legs or supports 2. The pieces cut out of these are semi- 
 circular in shape. Furniture for doll's house. 
 
 Fig. 39. Floiver-stancl, rising by steps. — L. 13, B. 13, 
 H. 9, 6, 4. On the three steps flower-pots are arranged. 
 
 Fig. 40. The same, to fit into a corner. — B. of side 
 parts 6i, H. 6. The steps are quarters of circles 
 (quadrants). Cut the two side parts from the same 
 rectangular board (8^ long by 6 broad). From the length 
 mark off h cm. Then divide the remaining rectangle 
 (8x6) into 12 squares of 2 cm. side. Cut along the 
 sides of squares into two parts. Make the three steps 
 from a board, a quadrant of 6 cm. radius, describing three 
 circles from the same centre at a distance apart of 2 cm. 
 
 Fig. 41. Stand for cash. — L. 4, H. 3^.
 
 TJiinning azvay Sticks to One or Both Sides 37 
 
 Fig. 42. Knife-rest. — Side-parts formed from two squares 
 of 2 i cm. side. In all the sides of the squares a rectangular 
 incision is made. L. of cross-piece 6. 
 
 Fig. 43. Chair with lifting seat. — L. 5, B. 6i, H. of back 
 7. The seat is so nailed at both sides that it may be turned 
 up. B. of seat 3^. 
 
 Fig. 44. Garden table. — L. of top 9, B. 6, H. of legs 7. 
 The latter are nailed to two cross-strips, 6 cm. long, and 
 then fastened under the table. 
 
 Figs. 4 5 a and 45&. Water-mill. — («) H. of uprights 12, 
 L. of axle 9, L. of floats 10. (h) H. of water stand 12, 
 H. of uprights of wheel 7, L. of axle 6, L. of floats 4. 
 (Divide the surface of the circle into six parts.) On the 
 stand to the left place a tin with a hole in it. Into this 
 hole thrust a stick from which the water may drop. 
 
 Fig. 46. Square. — L. 5. Rectangle. — L. 5, B. 3. Bhom- 
 hus. — L. 5. 
 
 Fig. 47. Circle. — Diameter 5. Regular hexagon and 
 regular octagon. Divide the circle into eight equal parts. 
 To do this, draw two diameters at right angles ; join their 
 extremities ; bisect the joining lines, and draw diameters 
 through the points of bisection. 
 
 Figs. 48« and 486. — («) Right-angled triangle. — L. 10, 
 H. 5. (&) Level, such as the carpenter (or the potter) uses. 
 Explain the mode of using. 
 
 Fig. 49. Yarn-winder. — The construction is plain from 
 the sketch. Such an instrument serves for winding yarn, 
 silk, etc. Many difl'erent forms of it may be made. 
 
 Fig. 50. Star-vjheel. — Diameter of inner circle G, of the 
 small outer circles 21. May be used as a target. 
 
 Fig. 51. Circidar ring. — Diameter 10, B. 2. 
 
 Fig. 52. Crescent. — H. 20, B. 6. Is set out with the 
 compasses. The radius for the two arcs is the same, the 
 centre different. A small shelf is fixed in the middle, o\\ 
 which some toy figure is placed. 
 
 Fig. 53. Timher-cart. — L. of beams 16, L. of axle 8, 
 diameter of hind wheel 5, of front wheel 4. The front
 
 38 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 axle is made to turn on a nail passing through its middle 
 point. The beams may be simply nailed on to the axles 
 instead of let into them. 
 
 Fig. 54. Stool for wash-tub.— I.. 12, B. 6, H. 5. 
 
 Fig. 55. Dining -table, to pull out. — L. of under-frame 
 11, B. 7, H. of legs 6|-. Make the three parts of the 
 table-top from one piece (L. 18, B. 9). The length of the 
 inserted piece is 6-|-. 
 
 Fig. 56. Staircase. — L. of staircase 8, B. 9, H. 8, H. of 
 balustrade 13. The two pieces on which the steps rest 
 are to be cut from one board. The cuts must be at right 
 angles to each other. 
 
 Fig. 57. Cart, with front and back seats. — L. 8, B. 4, 
 H. 6^. Diameter of wheels 6. 
 
 6th Group. — Box-Making (Use of Fretsaw). 
 
 Fig. 58. Open box. — L. 13, B. 5, H. 4. First nail the 
 four side-pieces together. Join the bottom on last. 
 
 Fig. 59. Money-box.— L. 8, B. 5, H. 4. 
 
 Fig. 60. Box with espalier. — L. of box 15, B. 5, H. 4j. 
 H. of espalier 30. Fill the box with earth, and plant in it 
 peas or beans. 
 
 Fig. 61. Box-cart. — L. of box 12, B. 17, H. 0. Diameter 
 of wheels 8. 
 
 Fig. 62. Crih.—L. 10, B. 4, 3, H. 9. L. of legs 8. 
 
 Fig. 63. Box with sliding lid.—L. 12, B. 6, H. 5. Before 
 nailing together, cut the grooves in the two sides. The lid 
 must be pared down on its two longer sides. 
 
 Fig. 64. Dog -kennel. — L. 8, B. 4, H. 4. 
 
 Fig. 65. Sentry-box. — L. 5, B. 5, H. 12. 
 
 Fig. 66. Sentry-box inkstand. — L. 9, B. 6, H. 17, B. of 
 door 6, H. 12. The door is fastened at the bottom to the 
 floor with two hinges. On the inside of the door is nailed 
 a box with a patent ink-bottle (" Normal-Tintenfass ") in it. 
 
 Fig. 67. Pump-shaped, money-box. — L. 6, B. 5, H. 11. 
 In front paste a label with the inscription, " No pumping
 
 Half - Lapping 3 9 
 
 done here." [In German, to " pump " means to borrow 
 money or lend it.] 
 
 Fig. ^Q. Starling box. — L. 10, B. 10, H. 18, 14. 
 (Hatching-box for a bird.) 
 
 Fig. 69. Cigar-box converted into a house. — L. 16, B. 8, 
 H. 14. The flap (of the roof) is fastened with two hinges. 
 The windows and door-frame are made of stained wood. 
 
 Fig. 70. Cupboard. — L. 14, H. 18, L. of door 8i H. of 
 same 10. The door is sawed out of the front piece, and 
 fastened at the side with two hinges. For a lock use u 
 l)ent wire. Behind the front piece nail a box, a little 
 longer and broader than the door-opening. 
 
 Fig. 71. Pen-box. — L. 21, B. 7, H. 4. The edges and 
 the boards nailed on to the top are decorated by means of 
 chip-carving. First make the outside case, and then fit 
 the drawer-like box into it. 
 
 7th Group. — Half-lapping. 
 
 Fig. 72. Angles {right, aeute, obtuse). — L. of the arms 10, 
 B. 1. The breadth of each piece is set off at the end of 
 the other. Cut vertically down the line so obtained ; 
 then pare away the wood to half the thickness. (Try 
 square ; set bevel.) 
 
 Fig. 73a. Target. — Diameter 12, 736. Target with 
 movable cross. (When the bull's eye is hit, tbe cross 
 vanishes.) — Diameter 15, H. of cross 13. The bull's eye 
 is cut and nailed at the bottom of the cross. The cross is 
 fastened with a piece of elastic to the bottom of the target. 
 (Examine the sketches carefully.) 
 
 Fig. 74. Pot-stand. — L. and B. 13. 
 
 Fig. 75. Grave-cross. — H. 13, B. 8. 
 
 Fig. 76. Frame.— I.. 12, B. 8. 
 
 Fig. 77. Parallel bars. — L. of bars 12, H. 6i. In the 
 supports, L. of pieces running lengthways 14, of cross- 
 pieces 8|. 
 
 Fig. 78. Windmill. — L. of each pair of arms 20,
 
 40 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 Fig. 79. Sec-saic. — L. of cross-beam 30, H. of frame o. 
 
 Fig. 80. Merry-go-rou7ul. — L. and B. 30. 
 
 Fig. 81. Dove-cot — H. of upright 12, cross-pieces 11 : 
 L. of cot 4, B. 4, H. 6. 
 
 Fig. 82. Mangle. — L. 22, B. 8, H. of middle post 13; 
 L. of rolling box (filled with stones) 21, B. 6,^, H. 4. 
 
 8th Group. — Cutting along Curves ; Drawing 
 partly Freehand. 
 
 Fig. 83. Spatidci. — L. 18, B. 4. (A spade - shaped 
 tool used in clay modelling.) 
 
 Fig. 84. Tog banner "Engaged." — H. 20. (Used to 
 reserve seats at a public table.) 
 
 Fig. 85. Console. — Top semicircular, diameter 14. H. 
 of support 11, B. 6. 
 
 Fig. 86. Watch-stand. — B. 7, H. 10. Below the hook 
 glue a round piece of plush. 
 
 Fig. 87. Plush elli^Jse and ovcd (true egg-shape). — L. 18. 
 A simple method of construction may be used for the 
 ellipse. Fix two nails for the foci. Pass a string loosely 
 about them, and trace the ellipse with a pencil held so as 
 to keep the string always at full stretch. For the oval 
 draw two circles, a larger and a smaller, some little 
 distance apart. Join them at the sides by free curves 
 which blend with the circumferences of the circles. (More 
 difficult constructions would be out of place with younger 
 boys.) 
 
 Figs. 88a and 885. Leaves. — L. 16, B. 12. Various 
 forms may be cut. (To be used as fruit-plates.) 
 
 Fig. 89. Litter. — L. of box 6, B. 4, H. 3i L. of poles 
 18. (Something like an old-fashioned litter.) German 
 workmen use such boxes to carry sand and stones. 
 
 Fig. 90. Doll's cradle.— L. 15, B. 8, H. 14. Fit the 
 bottom in last. 
 
 Fig. 91. Key -hoard. B. 12, H. 16. 
 
 Fig. 92. Gymnast (Leotard). — H. of frame 20, B. 4^.
 
 Cutting along Curves ; Draiving partly Freehand 4 1 
 
 H. of gymnast 12. If the gymnast, head downwards, is 
 fastened with worsted to two points on either side of the 
 frame, and the frame is pressed together at the bottom, the 
 gymnast will turn over. 
 
 Fi(j. 93. Stamp-'box. — L. 6, B. 4|, H. 2, 7. The cover 
 is fastened with a nail at each side so as to lift up and 
 down. 
 
 Fig. 94. Sofa.—L. 8, B. 4, H. 7. 
 
 Fig. 95. Wheelbarrow. — L. 25, B. 5, H. 5. Diameter of 
 wheel 4|. 
 
 Fig. 96. Toy-eart.—L. of bottom 12, B. 6, H. of back 8, 
 of front 4, diameter of wheels 6, 5. The front axle is 
 movable. 
 
 Fig. 97. Rattle. — The middle part is fixed to the handle ; 
 the two onter parts only joined to it with a piece of twine. 
 B. of middle part 4, H. 12. 
 
 Fig. 98. Egg-crate.— L. 16, B. 12, H. 18. First make 
 the prism-shaped framework, then nail on the side sticks 
 and the bottom. 
 
 Fig. 99« and 99&. Sledges.— (a) L. 10, B. 4, H. 4. 
 (b) L. of runners 16, B. 6. 
 
 Fig. 100. Crossboiv.—L. of whole 30, B. 2, H. 2i. Saw 
 first the two side-parts with slits in them (L. of slit 20). 
 
 Fig. 101. Fig.—L. 20.
 
 Appendix 
 
 Course in Paper, Cardboard, and 
 Stick Work. 
 
 (First Preparatory Stage. Plate XL) 
 
 Intkoductory Note. 
 
 The course partly represented in Plate XI. has grown by 
 degrees in the Berlin school-workshops during many years. 
 The objects are, for the most part, connected with Froebel's 
 practical " occupations " for the Kindergarten, and are a 
 further development thereof. They thus offer nothing 
 essentially new. Peculiar to the course are only the 
 arrangement and grouping, which are such that progress is 
 carefully graduated. The value of the order adopted has 
 been proved by the test of practice. 
 
 We are the less inclined to give elaborate instructions for 
 making the several objects, as quite a literature has already 
 been devoted to the various groups we now present. 
 Besides the works mentioned in the Introduction, we may 
 call attention to Kalb's Dcr erste Unterricht in dcr Knabcn- 
 handarbcit ^ ; Hertel's Fcqroarhcitcn, for boys of from eight 
 to fifteen ; and Barth and Niederley's Bes Kindes erstes 
 Bescluiftigungsbucli. 
 
 We confine ourselves to making general observations 
 after each group, and give in the last plate representations 
 only of a few selected objects from each group. 
 
 ^ An edition with supplementary exercises has been published in English 
 by Messrs. Newmann & Co.
 
 Appendix 4 3 
 
 Course. 
 1st Group. — Cutting Pictures off and out. 
 
 Practice in the use of the scissors by guiding them 
 along given lines or contours. 
 
 The ordinary picture sheets, on which the several 
 pictures are divided from each other by lines, are first 
 pasted on to strong paper. The pupils begin by cutting 
 strips ; they then cut the single pictures from the strips. 
 Afterwards the outlines of the beasts, soldiers, etc., are cut 
 out. 
 
 It pleases the boys if they may fix the figures by means 
 of a creased strip of paper to a piece of cardboard or " wood- 
 pulp," and so make them stand. 
 
 2nd Group.— Folding, the Primary Figure being 
 a Square or Rectangle. 
 
 Practice in the use of the scissors by guiding them along 
 lines drawn by the children themselves. Practice in 
 measuring ; also in folding. 
 
 A rectangular sheet of paper, 20 (afterwards 40, 80) 
 cm. wide, and of any length, is divided by folding into 2 
 (afterwards 4, 8) long strips ; on these squares (afterwards 
 rectangles) are measured oh', cut oft', and then used for 
 folding. 
 
 The well-known folding exercises of the Kindergarten 
 have been brought into sequence as follows : — {a) Square : 
 envelope, basket without and with decorations, pepper and 
 salt holder, imperial crown, windmill, boats, ships, bird- 
 boxes, thread-winder, jaclccf} (h) Eectangle : hat, wall- 
 pocket, magic pocket-book, boat, arrow, letter-book, fiapper. 
 Example : Plate XL, to right. Fig 2. 
 
 ^ When the name of an object is printed in italics, there is a representa- 
 tion of it on Plate XI.
 
 44 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 3rd Group. — Forming Figures by Mounting 
 Squares and Rectangles. 
 
 Practice as before ; also, practice in mounting ; training 
 of the senses of form and colour. Applied net-drawing. 
 
 On drawing sheets with net-lines {i.e. ruled in squares), 
 first squares, then rectangles are arranged systematically 
 into figures. This is in connexion with drawing on ruled 
 sheets. Most simple drawing copies may here be usefully 
 employed. The same figure may be repeated several 
 times. The making of the squares (side generally 2 cm.) 
 and rectangles which must fit into the net, is, as in 
 group 2, by the pupil himself. The employment of vari- 
 ously-coloured paper is highly to be recommended. The 
 colours are indicated in Plate XI. by differeat methods of 
 shading. Thick paper or thin cardboard will be found 
 most suitable for the work. For pasting on, use starch or 
 dextrine. 
 
 This group offers great variety. Examples may be seen 
 in Plate XL, to left. Figs. 1-6. 
 
 4th Group. — Small Objects of " Pressed Straw " 
 or "Wood Pulp." 
 
 Made by measurmg, folding, and cutting in square. 
 Examples : simple sweet-bag, wind-mill, Christmas-tree 
 chain, perforated chain, tuft, apple-net, nut-bag, 'basket. 
 (Plate XL, to right, Fig. 3.) 
 
 5th Group. — Wood with Thin Cardboard, based 
 on the Square and the Rectangle. 
 
 Conversion of surfaces into solids. 
 
 Made are : — square tables and rectangular boxes, baskets 
 and trays in great variety. As examples, we give on Plate
 
 Appendix 4 5 
 
 Xr., to right, Figs. 4-6 : a simple square basket, a rect- 
 angular tray, and a box with lid. 
 
 6th Group. — Formation of Figures by Mounting 
 Squares and Rectangles in combination 
 with Triangles. 
 
 As in Group 3. Additional are the triangles, which 
 are obtained by dividing squares along the diagonals. 
 Examples: Plate XL, to left, Figs. 7-11. 
 
 7th Group. — Simple Plaiting and Weaving. 
 
 Practice in the use of the knife by guiding it along an 
 iron ruler (or try square). 
 
 The knife here makes its appearance for the first time. 
 The strips cut with the knife — they should not be less 
 than 1 cm. in width — are neater and truer than those cut 
 with the scissors. We may make : various look-markers 
 (Plate XL, to right. Fig. 7), weaving nets, crosses, mats,, 
 hearts. 
 
 8th Group. — Work with Paper and Thin 
 Cardboard, based on the Circle and 
 Regular Polygons. 
 
 Practice in the use of the compasses. 
 
 Made are : — serpent, circular, square, hexagonal, octagonal, 
 etc., hanging baskets, double sweet-bags, candle-guards, 
 hexagonal, octagonal, duodecagonal trays (Plate XL, to right. 
 Figs. 8 and 9).
 
 46 Easy Wood -Work 
 
 9th Group. — Formation of Figures by Cutting 
 out and Mounting Free Forms. Forms 
 taken from Life. 
 
 Examples: Plate X., to right, Figs. 12-15. 
 
 Groups 3, 6, and 9 admit of many variations of form, 
 and may be developed to an endless extent. We have 
 found them of very great assistance to the teaching of the 
 class-room in the first preparatory stage. 
 
 Those of the pupils who have finished first some piece 
 of work on which all are engaged, take their drawing 
 sheets, which always lie at hand, and produce from copies 
 or invent combinations of forms, until all are ready to begin 
 some new work. Such exercises give great pleasure to the 
 more skilful boys, and have a good effect on their taste and 
 fancy. 
 
 10th Group. — Composite Work, on a larger 
 scale, to Revise and Fix what has already 
 been Learnt. 
 
 Woven mats, pasted on to " wood-pulp," with borders. 
 Woven baskets, lamp-stands, targets, etc. (Table XL, to 
 right. Figs. 10 and 11.) 
 
 11th Group. — Ornaments for hanging on a 
 Christmas Tree, made from Cardboard 
 Patterns. 
 
 The patterns are to be had from scholastic publishers, 
 especially at Christmas time. It is advisable to make the 
 patterns stronger by mounting them on fairly thick paper. 
 To " scratch," that is, to remove part of the thickness
 
 Appendix 47 
 
 where the crease is to come, use a knife. (Plate XI., to 
 right, Fig. 12.) 
 
 12th Group. — Cork and Stick Work. 
 
 This group forms the transition to Easy Wood-Work. 
 
 The use of corks to join the sticks together has been 
 found more advantageous than that of peas. Still better 
 are the metal tubes specially designed for this purpose. 
 The cost of 1000 corks is 4s. ; other round sticks can be 
 obtained for sixpence. The products of cork work are : — 
 (a) angles, (&) geometrical figures, (c) geometrical solids, 
 id) forms derived from life — tables, chairs, letters, houses, 
 etc. 
 
 Lastly, the sticks may be employed in combination with 
 " wood-pulp " to make hurdles, seats, baskets, or other 
 receptacles. Examples: Plate XL, to right, Figs. 13-18. 
 
 MORRISON AND GIBB, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
 
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