Ex Libris 
 C. K. OGDEN 
 
 ,^>r 
 
 </ «, - 
 
 Z^-TAL^T^, 

 
 
 'J 
 
 fi
 
 NEW GUIDE 
 
 OF 
 AND 
 
 THEIR EINYIROr^S 
 
 FROM THE ITALIAN 
 
 CONTAINING A DEsCMPTlUN OF THE MONUMENTS, ANTIQUITIES, 
 GALLERIES , CHURCHES AND CURIOSITIES OT BOTH CAPITALS ; 
 THE JliURNET BY MONTH CASSINO AND THE PONTINE MARSHTS ; 
 INCLUDING A MAP OF ROME , OF THE ENVIRONS AND TWENTY 
 ilVE VIEWS, NEWLY ENGRAVED. OF THE PRINCIPAL MONUMBNTS. 
 
 CAREFULLY RKVLSED, AND ENLARGED 
 
 WITH AN ACCOUNT OF THE LATEST 
 
 ANTIQUARIAN RESEARCHES. 
 
 ROME 1844. 
 
 SOLO BY MONALDINI, ENGLISH LIBRARY AND READING ROOM. 
 PIAZZA DI SPAGNA N. 79.
 
 TO 
 
 GENERAL IN THE SERVICE 
 
 OF HER BRITANNIC MAJESTlf 
 
 ETC. ETC. ETC. 
 
 Sir, 
 
 1/with the view of facilitating to those 
 english travellers w^ho may not be fami- 
 liar v^itli the italian language a knowledge 
 of the monuments of ancient and modern 
 Rome, I have been induced to publish 
 an english version of the work of Vasi , 
 corrected by the late professor Nibby, 
 entitled «Guida di Roma e de' contorni». 
 In addition to the interesting matter 
 treated in the original, which has been 
 rendered in a plain unpretending style, 
 this version contains a description of the 
 etruscan and egyptian museums at the 
 Vatican, of the obelisks, aqueducts and 
 
 f:, e~^ /^> »«- r 
 
 €>
 
 works executed in ancient and modern 
 times in the Pontine marshes i the jour- 
 ney of Horace, those by Terracina and 
 Montecassino , a description of Naples, 
 its immediate environs , of the temples 
 at Paestum and the arch of Trajan at 
 Benevento. 
 
 I have resolved to place this work 
 under your auspices in consequence of 
 your long acquaintance with all the ob- 
 jects concerning which it treats; finding 
 it likely to be useful I flatter myself that 
 you will be disposed to assist in procu- 
 ring for it a favorable reception. 
 
 With sentiments of the highest res- 
 pect and consideration I have the honour 
 to be 
 
 Sir 
 
 Your obliged and most obed. serv. 
 
 VENANZIO MONALDINI.
 
 PREFACE BY NIBBY. 
 
 J n 1 8 1 8 the late M. Vasi requested me to correct 
 his work on the topography and monuments of 
 ancient and modern Rome. The respect due to the 
 author induced me merely to cPface mistakes and 
 to insert in the new edition the most recent dis- 
 coveries made in the ancient topography of the 
 city and the actual state of the monuments. 
 After the death of Vasi I published a new edition 
 of this work in 1 824, in which I completed what 
 had been commenced in i818 and made so many 
 changes that excepting the method, which is 
 nearly the same, this edition may be considered 
 as an entirely new work. The favourable recep- 
 tion it has met with, and the preference it has 
 obtained over other works on the same subject, 
 induced me to publish new editions in 1 826, 1 829 
 and 1834. This last being exhausted I now pub- 
 lish one more complete and more exact than 
 those that have preceded. Fresh discoveries have 
 lately been made in the topography of ancient 
 Rome and its environs, particularly in the forum 
 and on the eastern side of the Capitoline hill* 
 historic monuments are thus daily brought to 
 light and we now tread on the same soil as the 
 great men of antiquity. At the same time that 
 unknown monuments are thus discovered , those 
 that fall to ruin are kept in a stale of repair
 
 yi Preface of Nibby. 
 
 imitating the primitive form, and leaving traces 
 to distinguish the antique from the modern. A 
 sum is assigned on the Treasury for the purchase 
 of those existing in private hands and thus the 
 museums and public galleries are continually en- 
 riched with works of art. These acquisitions give 
 rise to changes in the classification of objects ^ 
 these have been followed in the descriptions of 
 the museums and private collections as they 
 existed at the moment of sending this work to 
 press. The division into eight days, as established 
 by Vasi,has been adhered to in this edition which 
 is preceded by a preface on the origin of Rome , 
 its encrease, its division into quarters, and its 
 establishments^ by a chronological account of the 
 emperors, from Augustus to the fall of the empire^ 
 of the popes from S.Peter to the reigning Pontiff, 
 and of the most celebrated artists mentioned in 
 the course of the work. I have also added a ca- 
 lendar of the ecclesiastical ceremonies as they 
 take place in the papal palace, in the basilics 
 and principal churches, and a statement of the 
 weights, measures and monies used in Rome.
 
 VII 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 yl ccording to the opinion most generally admitted^ 
 Rome ivas founded by Romulus, a descendant of 
 Mneas and of the Alban kings, in the 753 year 
 before the christian era. The city teas originally li- 
 mited to the Palatine hill'^ the Capitoline was added 
 after the rape of the Sabine women, and then the 
 valley, separating those two hills , became the forum, 
 Numa, the successor of Rotnulus, enclosed a 
 part of the Quirinal within the city. After the destruc- 
 tion of Alba by Tullius Hostilius'^ of Tellene, Ficana 
 and Politorium by Ancus Martins, the Ccelian and 
 Aventine hills formed part of the city, and were peo- 
 pled by the inhabitants of those towns. A wooden 
 bridge, called the Sublician, celebrated for the va- 
 lour of Codes, was throum over the river, and a ci- 
 tadel was built on the Janiculum by Ancus Martius. 
 Servius Tullius enlarged the city by enclosing the 
 remainder of the Quirinal as well as the Viminal and 
 the Esquiline^ he surrounded it with walls composed 
 of square blocks of volcanic tufo, fortified it with an 
 agger, or rampart, extending from the Quirinal to 
 the arch vf Gallienus on the Esquiline ^ the seven 
 hills and a small part of the Janiculum were thus 
 enclosed inthin a circuit of about eight miles. 
 
 Though the city had greatly encreased in the 
 period that elapsed from Servius to Aurelian, the 
 circuit of the walls remained the same^ but this em- 
 peror, with the view of repelling foreign invasions, 
 raised a new line of walls which was completed under 
 Probus in 276. Vopiscus, a contemporary writer.
 
 VIII Preface. 
 
 asserts that these walls were 50 miles in circuit, an 
 extent ivhich loould appear exaggerated if we did not 
 take into consideration the size of the city, and the 
 dense population ivhich naturally occupied the ca- 
 pital of icorld-^ and in fact, the ruins of the public 
 buildings alone cover so large a space of groimd that 
 within the present enclosure it would be impossible to 
 find room for private houses to receive the large po- 
 pulation of the ancient city. Of the walls of Aurelian 
 no traces remain:, those of the present day embracing 
 1 6 1j2 miles in circumference are of a period pos- 
 terior to that emperor ^ their most ancient part does 
 not go beyond the time of Honorius in 402. 
 
 On the right bank of the Tiber the walls are al- 
 together modern, the Vatican not having been en- 
 closed until 852 by Leo IV, to defend the church of 
 S. Peter s against the Saracens. The space occupied 
 by the modern city is about one third of that en- 
 closed uithin the walls ^ the other tico thirds consist 
 of kitchen gardens, vineyards and villas. 
 
 Of the twelve gates of the modern city eight are 
 on the left bank of the river viz : the Flaminian or 
 del Popolo, Salaria, Pia, S. Lorenzo, Maggiore, 
 S. Giovanni , S. Sebastiano and S. Paolo. On the 
 right bank are the Portese and S. Pancrazio, Ca- 
 valleggieri and Angelica. Eight of the more ancient 
 gates are closed, viz: the Pinciana, Viminalis, 
 Metronis, Latina, Ardeatina, Fabbrica, Pertusa 
 and Castello. 
 
 The Tiber passes through Rome in a direction 
 from north to south. Inhere are four bridges, the 
 jElian or S. Angelo, Janiculense or Sisto, Fabri- 
 cian or Quattro Capi , and that of Gratian or 
 S. Bartolomeo. Three are in ruins: the Vatican, 
 Palatine and Sublician,
 
 Preface. ix 
 
 Servius Tullius divided Rome into four quar- 
 ters or regiones: thePalatina, Suburrana, Esquilina 
 and Collina. Augustus into 14 viz: I. Capena ^ 
 11. Coelimontana, III. his and Serapis^ IV. Via 
 Sacra ^ V. Esquilina, VI. AUa Semita, VII. Via Lata, 
 VIII. Forum Romanum, IX. Circus Flaminius, 
 X. Palatium, XI. Circus Maximus, XII. Piscina 
 publica, XIII. Aventina and XIV. Transtiberina. 
 
 llie present city also is divided into 14 Rioni, 
 viz: Monti, Trevi, Colonna, Campo Marzo, Ponte, 
 Parione, Regola, S. Eustachio, Pigna, CampitelU, 
 S. Angelo, Ripa, Trastevere and Borgo. 
 
 The population of the city and its suburbs 
 amounted, according to the census of 1838, to 
 148,903 souls. 
 
 Though plundered and burnt at different pe- 
 riods Rome has always risen liken the phenix out of 
 her ruins. The obelisks, columns, statues and other 
 master pieces of art, the remains of ancient temples, 
 triumphal arches, theatres, amphitheatres , thermce, 
 tombs and aqueducts are the unrivalled ornaments 
 of this metropolis. 
 
 Many of the modern edifices are not inferior 
 in magnificence to those of antiquity :, at every step 
 are sumptuous churches, extensive palaces, contain- 
 ing valuable collections of painting and sculpture <, 
 fountains, villas filled with ancient and modern 
 icorks of art. In two public museums are united 
 master pieces ofegyptian, etruscan, greek and mman 
 sculpture. Bramante, Raphael, Michaelangelo and 
 other eminent artists have embellished the city with 
 their works. 
 
 Monuments of all ages collected here have ren- 
 dered Rome the seat of the fine arts. In the number 
 of her literary establishments are the University or
 
 X Preface. 
 
 Sapienza, founded in the XIII century^ the Roman 
 college and seminary ^ the Nazareno , Doria , CU" 
 mentine, Propaganda, English, Irish and Scotch 
 colleges. Among the academies are those of S. Luca 
 for the fine arts'^ of the catholic religion for theo- 
 logical subjects] the Linceian for the mathematical 
 and physical sciences ^ the Archeological for anti- 
 quities:, the Tiberina and Arcadian for the italian 
 language and literature. 
 
 Camei, mosaics, sculptures , paintings , engra- 
 vings, silks, cloth, artificial pearls, strings for mu- 
 sical instruments , beads etc. constitute the principal 
 objects of trade. 
 
 Charitable establishments abound in Rome, in- 
 dependently of those supported by foreigners for the 
 use of their countrymen. The sick are received, ac- 
 cording to the nature of their camplaints , in the 
 hospitals of S. Spirito, S. Giacomo, the Consola- 
 zione, S. Giovanni Laterano , S. Gallicano and 
 S. Roch. Of the numerous asylums for the poor the 
 principal are S. Michele, the Pio Istiluto di Caritd, 
 the Conservatorio of the Mendicanti for females and 
 the house of the orphan boys. 
 
 At Rome the catholic religion displays all hei' 
 splendour and majesty. In no city can the ceremonies 
 of the holy week, of easier, of the Corpus Domini, 
 of S. Peter and of Christmas , vie with those of the 
 Vatican (1). 
 
 (1) On ihe charitable institutions of this city the 
 reader mny consult the writings of monsignor Morichini, 
 or the Reminiscences of Rome j and on the Papal ceremo- 
 nies their origin and meaning, the publications of the very 
 Rev. Monsignor Baggs entitled the papal chapel , the 
 ceremonies of holy week and the pontifical mass sung at 
 S. Peter's.
 
 XI 
 
 CHRONOLOGY 
 
 OF THE ROMAN EMPERORS. 
 
 Octavian Augustus founds the empire after the vic- 
 tories of Philippi aud Actium 30 years before the christian 
 era , and at his death , after a reign of 44 years , leaves 
 Tiberius as his successor A. D. XIV. 
 A. D. 
 
 14 Tiberius. 
 
 37 Caligula. 
 
 41 Claudius. 
 
 54 Nero. 
 
 68 Galba. 
 
 69 Olho. 
 Vitellius. 
 Yespasian. 
 
 79 Titus. 
 
 81 Domitian. 
 
 96 Nerva. 
 
 98 Trajan. 
 117 Adrian. 
 138 Antoninus. 
 
 161 Marcus Aurelius , Lucius Verus. 
 181 Commodus. 
 193 Pertinax. 
 
 Didius Julianus. 
 Septimius Severus. 
 198 Antoninus Caracalla , Geta. 
 
 217 Macrinus. 
 
 218 Heliogabalus. 
 
 222 Alexander Severus. 
 
 235 Maximinus I. 
 
 257 Gordianus 1 and Gordianus II. 
 
 Maximus , Balbinus. 
 238 Gordianus 111. 
 244 Philip , father and sod. 
 249 Decius. 
 251 Gallus and YolusiaDus.
 
 XII Chronology of the roman emperors. 
 
 253 Emiliaaus. 
 
 Valerianus. 
 
 Gallienus. 
 268 Claudius II. 
 270 Aurelian. 
 
 275 Tacitus and Florian. 
 
 276 Probus. 
 
 282 Carus. 
 
 283 Carinas and Numerian. 
 
 284 Diocletian. 
 286 Maxirnian. 
 
 505 Constantius Chlorus and Maximian. 
 306 Constantine the great. 
 
 Maxentius. 
 308 Maximinius II. 
 
 Licinius. 
 537 Constantine II , Constance and Constantius. 
 361 Julian. 
 563 Jovian. 
 
 364 Valentinian 1 and Valens. 
 567 Gratian. 
 575 Valentinian U. 
 379 Theodosius 1. 
 383 Arcadius. 
 393 Honorius. 
 402 Theodosius II. 
 421 Constance II. 
 425 Valentinian III. 
 450 Marcian. 
 455 Avitus. 
 457 Majorian and Leo. 
 461 Lybius Severus. 
 467 Anthemus. 
 
 472 Olybrius. 
 
 473 Glycerins. 
 
 474 Nepos and Zeno. 
 
 475 Romulus or Auguslulus , dethroned the following 
 year by Odoacer king of the Heruli. With Augustulus 
 ended the western empire.
 
 XIII 
 
 CHRONOLOGY 
 
 OF TDE POPES 
 
 FROM S. PETER TO THE PRESENT DAY. 
 
 A. D. 
 
 54 S. Peler of Bethsais in Galilea the see at Rome. 
 
 65 Lin. Tuscan. 
 
 78 Anaclet. Athenian. 
 
 91 Clement I. Roman. 
 
 96 Evariste. Greek. 
 108 Alexander I. Roman. 
 119 Sixtus I. Roman. 
 128 Telesphore. Greek. 
 139 Hygin. Athenian. 
 142 Pius I. Aquileia. 
 157 Anicet. Syrian. 
 168 Soler. Campania. 
 177 Eleuthere. Greek. 
 193 Yictor I. African. 
 202 Zcphyrin. Roman, 
 218 Callixlus I. Roman. 
 223 Urban I. Roman. 
 250 Pontianus. Roman. 
 
 255 Anlheres. Greek. 
 
 256 Fabian. Roman. 
 250 Cornelius. Roman. 
 
 252 Luce 1, Lucca. 
 
 253 Stephen 1. Roman. 
 
 257 Sixtus IL Athenian. 
 259 Denis. Greek. 
 
 269 Felix L Roman. 
 275 Eutychian. Tuscan. 
 285 Caius. Dalmatia.
 
 XIV Cronology of the popes. 
 
 206 Marcelllnus. Roman. 
 308 Marcel I. Roman. 
 310 Eusebius. Greek. 
 
 Melchiade. African. 
 314 Silvester I. Roman. 
 
 336 Marcus I. Roman. 
 
 337 Julius I. Roman. 
 352 Liberius. Roman. 
 355 Felix II. Roman. 
 366 Damasus I. Spaniard. 
 385 Sirice. Roman. 
 
 398 Anastasius 1. Roman. 
 401 Innocent I. Albano. 
 
 417 Zosimus 1. Greek. 
 
 418 Boniface I. Roman. 
 422 Celestin I. Campania. 
 432 Sixtus 111. Roman. 
 
 440 Leo 1 the great. Tuscan. 
 468 llario. Sardinia. 
 471 Simplex. Tivoli. 
 483 Felix 111. Roman. 
 492 Gelasius I. African. 
 496 Anastasius II. Roman. 
 498 Symmachus. Sardinia. 
 514 Hormisdas. Frosinone. 
 523 John I. Tuscan. 
 526 Felix IV. Samnite. 
 530 Boniface II. Roman. 
 532 John II. Roman. 
 435 Agapit I. Roman. 
 536 Sylverius. Campania. 
 538 Yigil. Roman. 
 555 Pelagus I. Roman. 
 560 John III. Roman. 
 574 Benedict I. Roman.
 
 Chronology of the popes. xv 
 
 578 Pelagus II. Roman. 
 590 Gregory I or the great. Roman. 
 604 Sabinian. Blere. 
 
 607 Boniface HI. Rome. 
 
 608 Boniface IV. Marse. 
 615 Deusdedit Rome. 
 619 Boniface V. Naples. 
 625 Honorius I. Campania. 
 
 640 Severinus. Roman. 
 John IV. Dalmatia. 
 
 641 Theodore. Greek. 
 649 Martin I. Todi. 
 655 Eugenius I. Roman. 
 757 Vitalian. Segni. 
 672 Adeodatus. Roman. 
 676 Domnus I. Roman. 
 678 Agathon. Sicily. 
 682 Leo II. Sicily. 
 
 684 Benedict II. Roman. 
 
 685 John V. Syria. 
 
 686 Conon. Sicily. 
 
 687 Sergius I. Syria. 
 701 John VI. Greek. 
 705 John VII. Greek. 
 708 Sisinus. Syria. 
 
 Constantine. Syria. 
 715 Gregory II. Roman. 
 731 Gregory III. Syria. 
 741 Zacchariah. Greek. 
 752 Stephen II. Roman. 
 757 Paul I. Roman. 
 768 Stephen III. Sicily. 
 772 Adrian I. Roman. 
 795 Leo HI. Roman. 
 816 Stephen IV. Roman.
 
 XVI Chronology of the popes. 
 
 817 Pascal I. Roman. 
 
 824 Eugenius II. Roman. 
 
 827 Valentine, Gregory IV. Roman. 
 
 844 Scrgius II. Roman. 
 
 847 Leo IV. Roman. 
 
 855 Benedict III. Roman. 
 
 858 Nicliolas I. Roman. 
 
 867 Adrian II. Roman. 
 
 872 John VIII. Roman. 
 
 882 Marin I or Martin II. Tuscan. 
 
 884 Adrian III. Roman. 
 
 885 Stephen V. Roman. 
 891 Formose. Roman. 
 
 896 Boniface VI -, Stephen VI. Roman. 
 
 897 Roman I. Tuscan. 
 
 898 Theodore II. Roman. John IX. Tlvoli. 
 900 Benedict. IV. Roman. 
 
 903 Leo V. Ardea. 
 Christopher. Roman. 
 
 904 Scrgius III. Roman. 
 911 Anastasius III. Roman. 
 
 913 Laudon. Sabine. 
 
 914 John X. Ravenna. 
 
 928 Leo VI. Roman. 
 
 929 Stephen VII. Roman. 
 931 John XI. Roman. 
 936 Leo VII. Roman. 
 
 939 Stephen VIII. German. 
 942 Marin 11 or Martin III. Roman. 
 946 Agapit II. Roman. 
 956 John XII. Roman. 
 
 964 Leo VIU. Roman. 
 
 965 John XIII. Roman. 
 972 Benedict VI. Roman. 
 974 Domnus II. Roman.
 
 Chronology of the popes. xvii 
 
 975 Benedict "VII. Roman. 
 
 983 John XIV. Italian. 
 
 985 John XV, Juhn XVI. Roman. 
 
 996 Gregory V. Roman. 
 
 999 Silvester II. Auvergne. 
 1005 John XVII. Roman. 
 John XVIII. Roman. 
 1009 Sergiiis IV. Roman. 
 1012 Benedict VIII. Roman. 
 1024 John XIX. Roman. 
 1053 Bonodict IX. Roman. 
 104G Gregory VI. Roman. 
 
 1047 Clement II. Saxon. 
 
 1048 Damasus II. Bavaria. 
 
 1049 Leo IX. German. 
 1055 Victor II. German. 
 
 1057 Stephen X. Lorraine. 
 
 1058 Nicholas II. Burgundy. 
 1061 Alexander II. Milan. 
 1075 Gregory VII. Tuscan. 
 1086 Victor III. Benevento. 
 1088 Urbim II. Lagery. 
 1099 Pascal II. Tuscan. 
 
 1118 Gelasius II. Gaeta. 
 
 1119 Callixlus II. Burgundy. 
 1124 llonorius II. Bologna. 
 1150 Innocent II. Roman. 
 
 1143 Celeslin II. Tuscan. 
 
 1144 Luce II. Bologna. 
 
 1145 Eugenius 111. Pisan. 
 1150 Anastasius IV. Roman. 
 
 1154 Adrian IV5 BreaAspeare, England. 
 
 1159 Alexander III. Siena. 
 
 1181 Luce III. Lucca. 
 
 1 185 Urban 111, Craxlli. Milan.
 
 XVIII Chronology of the popes. 
 
 1187 Gregory^ VIII. Benevenlo. 
 
 Clement III. Roman. 
 1191 Celestin III. Roman. 
 1 198 Innocent III , Conti. Anagni. 
 1216 Honorius III , Savelli. Rome. 
 1227 Gregory IX, Conti. Anagni. 
 1241 Celestin IV, Milan. 
 1243 Innocent IV, Fieschi. Genoa. 
 1254 Alexander IV, Cort^/.' Anagni. 
 1261 Urban IV. Troyes. 
 1264 Clement IV, Foucauld. Languedoe. 
 1271 Gregory X. Piacenza. 
 
 1276 Innocent V. Savoy. 
 Adrian V, Fieschi. Genoa. 
 John XX or XXI. Portugal. 
 
 1277 Nicholas III , Orsini. Roman. 
 1281 Martin IV. Blontpince'. 
 
 1785 Honorius IV, Savelli. Roman. 
 
 1247 Nicholas IV. Ascoli. 
 
 1292 Celestin V. Neapolitan. 
 
 1294 Boniface VHI , Gaetani. Anagni. 
 
 1303 Benedict XI , Boccasini. Treviso. 
 
 1305 Clement V, De Gouth. Gascony. 
 
 1316 John XXII , D'Euse. Quercy. 
 
 1334 Benedict Xll. Foix. 
 
 1342 Clement VI. Limousin. 
 
 1352 Innocent VI. Limousin. 
 
 1362 Urban V, De Grissac. Gevandan, 
 
 1370 Gregory XI. Limousin. 
 
 1378 Urban VI, Prignani- Naples. 
 
 1389 BonifcicelX, Tomacelli. Naples. 
 
 1404 Innocent VII, Meliorati. Abbruzzi. 
 
 1406 Gregory XII, Corario. Venitian. 
 
 1409 Alexander V, Philarge. Crete. 
 
 1410 John XXI II , Cossa. Naples.
 
 Chronology of the popes. xix 
 
 1417 Martin V, Colonna. Rome. 
 
 1431 Eugenius IV, Condolmere. Venitian. 
 
 1447 Nicholas V. Sarzana. 
 
 1455 Calllxlus 111, Borgia. Spain. 
 
 1458 Pius II , Piccolomini. Siena. 
 
 1464 Paul II, Barbo. Venitian. 
 
 1471 Sixtus IV, Z?e la Rovere. Savona. 
 
 1484 Innocent VIII, Cibo de Melfe. Genoa. 
 
 1492 Alexander VI , Lenzoli Borgia. Spain. 
 
 1503 Pius HI, Piccolomini. Siena. 
 
 Julius II , De la Rovere. Savona. 
 1513 Leo X, Medicis. Florence. 
 
 1522 Adrian \l,Florent. Holland. 
 
 1523 Clement VII , Medicis. Florence. 
 1534 Paul HI , Farnese. Rome. 
 
 1550 Julius III , Del Monte. Rome. 
 1555 Marcel II , Cervin. Fano. 
 Paul IV, Caraffa. Naples. 
 1559 Pius IV, Medichini. Milan. 
 1566 Pius V5 Ghislieri. Liguria. 
 1572 Gregory XIII, Buoncompagni. Bologna. 
 1585 S'lxtus V, Perelti. March of Ancona. 
 
 1590 Urban VII, Castagna. Genoa. 
 Gregory XIV, Sfrondali. Cremona. 
 
 1591 Innocent IX, Facchinetti. Bologna. 
 
 1592 Clement VIII, Aldohrandini. Florence. 
 1605 Leo XI , Medicis D''OUoiano. Florence. 
 
 Paul V, Borghese. Rome. 
 1621 Gregory XV, Ludovisi. Bologna. 
 1625 Urban Vlll , Barherini. Florence. 
 1644 Innocent X, Painphili. Rome. 
 1655 Alexander VII , Chigi. Siena. 
 1667 Clement IX , Rospigliosi. Tuscany. 
 1670 Clement X, Alticri. Rome. 
 1676 Innocent XI, Odescalchi, Milan.
 
 XX Chronology of the popes. 
 
 1689 Alexander YIII, Ottoboni. Veuice. 
 
 1691 Innocent XII, Pignatelli. Naples. 
 
 1700 Clement XI, Albani. Urbino. 
 
 1721 Innocent XIII , Conti. Rome. 
 
 1724 Benedict XIII, Orsiiii. Rome. 
 
 1750 Clement XII, Corsini, Florence. 
 
 1740 Benedict XIV, Lamhei tiiiL Bologna. 
 
 1758 Clement XIII, Rezzonico. Veuitian. 
 
 1769 Clement XIV, Ganganelli. S. Angelo in Vado. 
 
 1775 Pius VI , Braschi. Cesena. 
 
 1800 Pius VII, Chiaramonti. Cesena. 
 
 1825 Leo XII, Delia Genga. Spoleto. 
 
 1829 Pius VIII , Castiglioni. Cingoli. 
 
 1851 Gregory XVI, Cappellari. Belluno. Born the 18 Sep- 
 tember 1765, raised to the Papal see the 2 fe- 
 bruary 1831 , crowned the 6 february.
 
 XXI 
 
 CFIRONOLOGICAL CATALOGUE 
 
 OF THE MOST CELEBRATED ARTISTS 
 
 NAMED IN THIS WORK. 
 
 PAINTERS. 
 Birth Death 
 
 1230 Cimabue. Florence. 1300 
 
 1276 Giollo. Florence. 1536 
 
 1401 Masaccio. Florence. 1442 
 
 1401 Bellini. Venice. 1500 
 
 1424 Giovanni Bellini. Yenice. 1514 
 
 1430 Mnntegna. Padua. 1505 
 1446 Pietro Vanucci , il Perugino. Citta della Pieve. 1524 
 
 1452 Leonardo da Vinci. Tuscany. 1519 
 
 1454 Pinturiccliio. Perugia. 1515 
 
 1469 Fia Barlolomeo di S. Marco. Florence. 1517 
 
 1471 Albert Durer. Nuremberg, 1528 
 
 1474 Michael Angelo Buonarotti. Florence. 1564 
 
 1477 Titian Vecelli. Venice. 1576 
 
 1478 George Barbarelli , il Giorgione. Castelfrauco. 1511 
 
 1479 Giovanni Razzi , il Sodoma. Vercelli. 1554 
 1481 Ballliasar Peruzzi. Siena. 1536 
 
 Benvenulo Tifi , il Garofalo. Ferrara. 1559 
 
 1183 Raphael Sanzio. Urbino. 1520 
 
 1484 Gio. Licinius , il Pordenone. Venice. 1540 
 
 1485 Sebastian del Piombo. Venice. 1547 
 1488 Gio. Franc. Penni , il Fattore. Florence. 1528 
 
 Andrea del Sarto. 1530 
 
 1490 Francesco Primatice. Bologna. 1570 
 
 1492 Giulio Pippi, il Romano. 1546 
 
 1494 Antonio Allegri , Correggio. 1534 
 
 Mathurin. Florence. 1528 
 
 Gio. Nanni. Udine. 1561
 
 XXII Catalogue of this artists. 
 
 1495 Polydoro Caldari. Caravaggio. 1542 
 
 1500 Pietro Buonacorsi, Pierin del Vaga. Tuscany. 1547 
 Daniel Ricclarelli Volterra. 1557 
 Giaconio Palma , il Vecchio. Venice. 1568 
 
 1501 Angelo Bronzino , Tuscany. 1570 
 1510 Giacomo Bassano. 1592 
 
 Francesco Salviati. Florence. 1563 
 
 1512 Giacomo Robusti , il Tintoretto. Venice. 1594 
 
 Giorgio Vasari. Arezzo. 1574 
 
 1528 Frederic Barroccio. Urbino. 1612 
 Jevome Mutian. Acquafredda. 1590 
 
 1529 TaddeoZuccari, Urbino. 1566 
 1532 Paolo Cagliari , il Veronese. 1588 
 
 1543 Frederic Zuccari. Urbino. 1600 
 
 1544 Giacomo Palma , il Giovane. Venice. 1626 
 1550 Scipio Pulsoni. Gaela. 1588 
 
 Domenico Passignani. Florence. 1638 
 
 Francesco Bassano. 1595 
 
 1555 Luici Caracci. Bologna. 1619 
 
 1556 Paul Brill. Antwerp. 1626 
 
 1557 Fra Cosimo Piazza. Castelfranco. 1621 
 Ventura Salimbeni. Siena. 1613 
 
 1558 Agostino Caracci. Bologna. 1601 
 1560 Michael Angelo Caravaggio. 1609 
 
 Annibale Caracci. Bologna. 1609 
 
 Giuseppe Cesari , il Cavaliere. Arpino. 1650 
 
 Gio. De Veccliis. Florence. 1610 
 
 1563 Raphael. Reggio di Modena. 1620 
 
 1565 Francis Vanni. Siena. 1609 
 
 1570 Bartolomeo Schedoni. Modena. 1615 
 
 1575 Guido Reni. Bologna. 1642 
 
 1577 Pierre Paul Rubens. Cologne. 1640 
 
 1581 Domenico Zampicri,ilDomenichino. Bologna. 1641 
 
 Gio. Lanfranc. Parma. 1647 
 
 1585 Massimo Stanzioni. Naples. 1656
 
 Catalogue of this artists. xxiii 
 
 Carlo Saracenl. Venice. 1625 
 
 1588 Giuseppe Ribera , lo Spagnolello. Xativa. 1659 
 1590 Gio. Franc. Barbieri , il Guercino. Cento. 1666 
 1592 GerardHontorst,GherardodelleNoUi. Utrecht. 1662 
 
 1594 Nicholas Poussin. DcsAndelys. 1665 
 
 1596 Pietio Berreltini. Corlona. 1669 
 
 1599 Antoine Vandyck. Antwerp. 1641 
 
 1600 Andrea Sacchi. Netluno. 1661 
 Glaude Gellee. Lorraine. 1680 
 Pierre Valentin. France. 1632 
 
 1602 Michael Angelo Cerquozzi. Rome. 1660 
 
 1606 Rembrandt. Leyden. 1674 
 
 1610 Jean Both. France. 1650 
 
 1612 Pietro Franc. Mola. Lugano. 1660 
 Luca Giordano. Naples. 1705 
 
 1613 Gaspar Duguet, Gaspar Poussin. Rome. 1675 
 Matthias Preti , il Calabrese. 1699 
 
 1615 Salvalor Rosa. Naples. 1673 
 
 1616 Benedetto Casliglione. Genoa. 1670 
 
 1617 Pietro Testa. Lucca. 1652 
 Gio. Franc. Romanelli. Viterbo. 1662 
 
 1618 Bartolomeo Murillo. Siviglia. 1682 
 1621 Jacques Courtois. Burgundy. 1676 
 1625 Giacinto Brandi, Poli. 1701 
 1625 Carlo Maralla. Camerano. 1713 
 1628 Carlo Cignani. Bologna. 1719 
 1634 Giro Ferri , Rome. 1689 
 1638 Luigi Garzi. Pistoia. 1721 
 1643 Pierre Molyn , il Tempesta. Haarleem. 1701 
 
 1656 Franc. Trevisanl. Rome. 1746 
 
 1657 Franc. Solimena. Naples. 1747 
 
 1658 Gio. GauUi , il Baciccio. Genoa. 1709 
 1684 Marco Benefiale. Rome. 1764 
 1699 Pierre Subleyras. Uzes. 1747 
 1708 Pompeo Baltoni. Lucca. 1787
 
 XXIV Catalogue of this artists. 
 
 1728 Raphael Mengs. Saxony. 1779 
 
 1752 Antonio Cavallucci. Sermoneta. 1795 
 
 1776 Giuseppe Bossi. Buslo Arsizio. 1814 
 
 SCULPTORS. 
 
 Donatello. Florence. 1466 
 
 Simone , his brother. Florence. 
 
 1474 Michael Angelo Buonarolti. Florence. 1564 
 
 1477 Glacomo Fatli. Sansovioo. 1570 
 
 1487 Baccio Bandinclli. Florence. 1559 
 
 1500 Benvenuto Cellini. Florence. 1570 
 
 Guglielmo della Porta. Milan. 
 
 1524 Gio. Bologna. Douai. 1608 
 
 1551 Pietro Paolo Olivieri. Rome. 1559 
 
 1552 Ambrogio Buonvicino. Milan. 1622 
 1562 Pietro Bernini. Sesto. 1629 
 1567 Nicholas Cordier. Lorraine. 1612 
 1669 Paolo Guldotto. Lucca. 1629 
 1576 Stefano Maderno. Lombardy. 1636 
 1580 Franc. Mocchi. Montevarchi. 1646 
 1590 Jacques Sarazin. Noyon. 1660 
 1594 Francis de Quesnoy. Brussels. 1646 
 1598 Gio. Lorenzo Bernini. Naples. 1680 
 1602 Giuliano Finelli. Carrara. -^' 
 
 Alessandro Algardi. Bologna. 1654 
 
 Jean Theodon. France. 1580 
 
 1605 Andrea Bolgi. Carrara, 1656 
 
 1608 Lazzaro Morelli. Ascoli. 1690 
 
 1610 Ercole Ferrata. Pclsolto. 1686 
 
 1614 Paolo Naldini. Rome. 1684 
 
 1619 Giacnmo Fancelli. Rome. 1671 
 
 1624 Antonio Raggi. Milan. 1686 
 
 1628 Domenico Guidi. Massa. 1701 
 
 1644 Giuseppe Mazzuoli. Vollerra* 1725 
 
 i656 Pierre Le^ros. Paris. 1719
 
 Catalogue of this artists. xxv 
 
 1658 Camlllo Rusconi. Milan. 1728 
 
 Pierre Nonol. Orcham. 1733 
 
 1671 Angelo Rossi. Genoa. 1715 
 
 1705 Michel Angc Slodtz. Paris. 1764 
 
 1740 Houcloii. r.iiis. 1820 
 
 1757 Antonio Canova. Possagno. 1822 
 
 ARCHITECTS. 
 
 1291 SicfanoMasuccio II. 1388 
 
 1500 Taddco Gadcli. Floieijcc. 1350 
 
 1577 Filippo Brunellesclii. Florence. 1444 
 1598 Gio. Baltisla Alberti. Florence 
 
 1407 Giuliano De M.-.jano. Florence. 1477 
 
 Bernardo Rosscllini. Florence. 
 
 Baccio Pintelli. Florence. 
 1455 Fra Glocondo. Yerona. 
 
 1443 Giuliano Gianiberti. Sangallo. 1517 
 
 1444 Bramanle Lazzeri. Urbino. 1514 
 Anlonio Picconi. Sangallo. 1546 
 
 1454 Simonc Pollaiuolo. Florence. 1509 
 
 1460 Andrea Conlucci. Monle Sansovino. 1529 
 
 1474 Michael Angelo Buonarolti. Florence. 1564 
 
 1476 Girolamo Genga. Urbino. 1551 
 
 1479 Giaconio Falti , or Sansovino. Tuscany. 1570 
 
 1481 Baldassar Peruzzi. Siena. 1536 
 
 Sebastian Scrlio. Bologna, 1552 
 
 1483 Raphael Sanzio. Urbino. 1520 
 
 1484 Michele Sanmiclicli. Verona. 1559 
 1492 Giulio Pippi , or Piomano. Rome. 1546 
 
 Pyrrho Ligmio. Naples. 1580 
 
 1507 Giacomo Bnrozzi. Vignola. 1573 
 
 1511 Barlolomeo Aminanati. Florence. 1586 
 
 1518 Bartidomeo Genga. Urbino. 1558 
 
 Andrea PalJadio. Vicenza. 1580 
 
 Francesco di Yolterra. 1588
 
 XXVI Catalogue of this artists. 
 
 1522 Pellegro Pellegrini. Bologna. 1592 
 
 1540 Gio. Fontana. Como. 1614 
 
 1543 Domenico Fontana. Como. 1607 
 Giacomo della Porta. Rome. 
 
 1551 Pietro Paolo Olivieri. Rome. 1599 
 
 1552 Vincenzo Scamozzi. Vicenza. 1616 
 1556 Carlo Maderno. Bisso near Como. 1669 
 
 Martino Longhi. Milanese. 
 
 1559 Carlo Lombardi. Arezzo. 1620 
 
 1559 Luigi Cardi. Cingoli. 1613 
 
 Flaminio Ponzio. Lombardy. 
 
 1569 Onorio Lunghi. Milanese. 1619 
 
 1570 Girolamo Rainaldi. Rome. 1655 
 Martino Longhi. Milanese. 1657 
 
 1531 Gio. Baptist Soria. Rome. 1651 
 
 1596 Pietro Berrettiui. Cortona. 1669 
 
 1598 Gio. Lorenzo Bernini. Naples. 1680 
 
 1599 Franc. Borromini. Bisso near Como. 1667 
 1602 Alessandro Algardi. Bologna. 1654 
 1611 Carlo Rainaldi. Rome. 1641 
 
 1615 Claude Perrault. Paris. 1688 
 
 1616 Gio. Ant. De Rossi. Rome. 1695 
 1634 Carlo Fontana. Como. 1714 
 1637 Matthias De Rossi. Rome. 1695 
 1642 Andrea Pozzi. Trenlo. 1709 
 1653 Antoine Desgodetz. Pan's. 1728 
 1659 Francesco Gaddi Bibiena. Bologna. 1739 
 1677 Girolamo Teodoli. Rome. 1766 
 1681 Antonio Cancvari. Rome. 
 
 1691 Alessandro Galilei. Florence. 1737 
 1699 Ferdinando Fuga. Florence. 
 
 1699 Nicholas Salvi. Rome. 1751 
 
 1700 Luigi Yanvitelli. Rome. 1775 
 1708 Paolo Posi. Siena. 1776 
 1757 Antonio Canova. Possagno. 1822
 
 XXYII 
 
 STATEMENT 
 
 OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES AIND MONIES 
 USED II\ ROME. 
 
 MEASURES. 
 
 Paltno architectural viz 12, 60 minutes = 0,6877 of the 
 Paris foot. 
 
 The foot 
 
 = 
 
 0, 9170. 
 
 Braccio 
 
 = 
 
 2, 63. 
 
 Staiolo 
 
 = 
 
 3, 954. 
 
 Passo 
 
 = 
 
 4, 585. 
 
 Canna 
 
 z=z 
 
 6, 877. 
 
 Catena 
 
 = 
 
 39, 54. 
 
 The mile 
 
 =: 
 
 feet 4584. 
 
 The ancient roman mile was divided into 1000 steps 
 or 5000 feet , and was the 75th part of a degree. 
 
 Since 1820 the french system has heen in practice; 
 the metre is called the canna architellonica. 
 
 L/^ND MEASUREMENT. 
 
 Quartuccio = 0, 1130, 8 of the french acre. 
 
 Scorzo = 0, 2262. 
 
 Pezza = 0, 5170. 
 
 Quarta = 0, 9047. 
 
 Rubbio = 3, 619. 
 
 Pal mo = 0, 2090 of the Paris ell. 
 
 Braccio = 0, 7141. 
 
 Canna = 1, 674.
 
 XXVIII Statement oficeights, measures and monies. 
 LIQUID MEASURExMENT. 
 
 Barrel = 32 bocali , = 128 foglielle , = 1 , i3yi8 rotnan 
 cubic foot. 
 == 47, 80 pinls of Paris. 
 Hogshead =16 barrels , = 764, 9 pints. 
 
 OIL. 
 
 Bocale = 4 foglietle , = 16 quartucce ^ = '\^ 992 pinls. 
 Barrel = 28 bocali, = 2 ij'i i8 cubic feet, = 55, 77 pints. 
 
 CORN. 
 
 Quartarella =::: 1,5/6 scorzo , = 2, 631 bushels. 
 Quarta = 5, 262 bushels. 
 
 Rubbio = 640 roinan pounds, = 10, 2/18 cubic feet, 
 
 = 21, 05 bushels. 
 
 WEIGHTS. 
 
 The pound =12 ounces , = 24 rieniers , = 576 grains, 
 
 = 0, 6929 Paris pound. 
 Dccina =10 pounds , = 7, 077 french pounds. 
 
 MONIES. 
 
 According to a government regulation of 10 January 
 1835 the following proportion has been established bet- 
 ween gold and silver. 
 
 A pound of gold is worth 216 piastres , 22 bajocchi 
 and 9 dcnari. 
 
 A pound of silver 13 piastres, 73 bajocchi , 9 denari 
 and 9/10. The monies of the country are based on the de- 
 cimal system.
 
 Statement ofioevjhts^ measures and monies, xxix. 
 
 Qualliini 5=1 bajocco. 
 Bajocclii 5=1 grosso. 
 » 10 =: 1 paul. 
 
 100 = 1 dollar. 
 
 The copper monies are. 
 Qualtrino = 0,0109 a franc. 
 Bajocclii = 0,0546 » 
 
 or 5 qiiatlrini. 
 
 SILVER. 
 Grosso 5 bajocclii = 0, 2783. 
 
 Paul 10 .. =0, 5566. 
 
 Papcito 20 » =^ I5 930 francs. 
 
 Teslone 50 » = 1^ 6396 » 
 
 1J2 Piastre 50 » = 2, 7330 » 
 
 Piastre 100 » =5, 4660 » 
 
 GOLD COINS. 
 
 Gold monies are divided into two classes , those de- 
 creed by Government in 1836 called the new coins are 
 divided into pieces of 10, 5 and 2 1/2 dollars. The old coins 
 were also originally decimal , but their value lias been 
 successively changed ; the sequin is now worth 2 dollars 
 and 2 pauls , the doppia dollars 3, 52. Compared with 
 french money their value is: 
 ifi Sequin coined since 1758 fr. 6, 012. 
 Sequin d.'' » 12, 024. 
 
 1/2 Doppia 1755 » 8, 7452. 
 
 Doppia » » 16, 7998. 
 
 The foreign coins current in the state are. 
 
 SILVER. 
 
 Germany. Dollars 0, 95 bajocchi. 
 
 Austria » 1, 04. 
 
 Crown of Milan 0, 83. 
 
 New d-° 0, 95.
 
 XXX Statement of weights, measures and monies. 
 
 Spain. Colonnato ) , 
 
 '^ S- same value as roman coin. 
 
 1J2 Colonnato j 
 
 France. Ecu de 6 livres 1, 06. 
 
 5 franc piece 0, 92. 
 
 Parma. 5 livres 0, 92. 
 
 Piemonl 5 » 0, 92. 
 
 Naples. Piece of 120 grana 0, 93. 
 
 Tuscany. Francescone 1, 02 lya. 
 
 GOLD. 
 
 Germany. Ducat of different slates 2, 16. 
 
 Austria. Hungary 2, 18, 
 
 Sovereign 6, 48. 
 
 Sequin of Milan 2, 18. 
 
 Spain. Pezzelta before 1786 1. 
 
 » after 0, 96. 
 
 Doubloon before d.° 3, 88. 
 
 » after 3, 75. 
 
 France. Louis d'or before 1785 4, 60. 
 
 after 4, 35. 
 
 Napoleon 3, 71. 
 
 Parma. Piece of livres 20 5, 71. 
 
 Portugal. Lisbonina. 8, 36. 
 
 Piemont. Pistole of Genoa. 7, 30. 
 
 Savoy. 5, 25. 
 
 Piece of livres 20 3, 71. 
 
 Naples. Ounce from 1818 2, 40. 
 
 Tuscany. Sequin. 2, 21.
 
 XXXI 
 
 INDICATION 
 
 OF THE ECCLESIASTICAL CEREMO?(IES 
 
 ^VHICH TAKE PLACE IN THE PAPAL CllAPEL 
 AND IN THE PRINCIPAL CHURCHES. 
 
 JANUARY. 
 
 1. At 10 high mass in the Sixtine chapel in presence of 
 
 the pope, the cardinals and the pontifical court. 
 
 5. Vespers in the same chapel at 3 PM. 
 
 6. Epiphany. At 10 high mass as above j at 4 procession 
 
 in the church of Aracceli. 
 
 17. Festival of S. Antonio at his church near S. Maria 
 
 Maggiore. Blessing of horses and other animals, 
 
 18. Chair of S. Peter j at 10 pontifical chapel at S. Peter's. 
 
 FEBRUARY. 
 
 2. Purification of the Madonna. At 10 pontifical chapel in 
 
 the Apostolic palace in which the candles are blessed 
 and distributed. — During lent pontifical chapel at 
 the Vatican every Sunday ; on ash Wednesday the 
 blessing and distribution of ashes. 
 
 MARCH. 
 
 7. Festival of S. Thomas Aquinas at the Minerva ; the 
 
 holy college of cardinals is present at high mass. 
 9. Festival of S. Francesca Romana at her church near the 
 arch of Titus.
 
 XXXII Indication of the ecclesiastical ceremonies. 
 
 25. Annunciation of the B. Virgin. The pope and cardinals 
 are present at high mass at the Minerva , procession 
 of young girls who have received a dowi'y from the 
 fraternity of the Annunciation. 
 
 HOLY WEEK. 
 
 Palm Sunday. The pope hlesses and distributes palms 
 in the Sixtine chapel j high mass. The ceremony com- 
 mences at 1/2 past 9. 
 
 JVednesday. About 5 3Iiserere in the Sixtine chapel. 
 
 Thursday. High mass in the same ch;tpel ; the pope de- 
 poses the holy Sacrament in the Pnollna chapel 5 from 
 the balcony of the Vatican he reads the bull in Ccena 
 Domini^ gives his blessing to the people; washes the 
 feet and serves at table twelve poor priests of different 
 nations. At 5 o'clock Miserere in the Sixtine chapel. 
 After sun set the pontifical altar in S.Peter's is washed. 
 
 Friday. At 1/2 past 9 the ceremony takes place in the 
 Sixtine chapel in presence of the pope and cardinals. 
 In the afternoon the office and IMiserere as on the 
 preceding days. In many churches and oratories Is 
 celebrated the three hours agony in commemoration 
 of the three hours that Christ passed on the cross. 
 
 Saturday. At the church of S. John Lateran baptism of 
 Jews and Turks newly converted ; holy orders 
 granted to those who are destined to the ecclesiastical 
 profession. Houses blessed. 
 
 Easter. The pope himself celebrates mass at S. Peter's 
 at 10 o'clock; at 12 he gives his blessing from the 
 balcony of the facade. 
 
 Blonday , tuesday and Sunday following j pontifical chapel 
 in the apostolic palace.
 
 Indication of the ecclesiastical ceremonies. xxxiii 
 APRIL. 
 
 25. Festival of S. Mark the evangelist, at his church pa- 
 
 lazzo di Venezia. At 8 o'clock a procession of all the 
 clergy repairs from this church to S. Peter's to im- 
 plore the pardon of sins , for this reason it is called 
 LitanicC maiores. 
 
 MAY. 
 
 2, Festival of S. Athanasius , bishop of Alexandria and 
 doctor of the church. High mass according to the ser- 
 vice of the greek church at S. Athanasius via Babuino. 
 
 26. Festival of S. Filippo Neri the apostle of Rome. Pon- 
 
 tifical chapel at the Chiesa Nuova 3 the pope and 
 sacred college are present. 
 
 On Ascension day the pope repairs to S. John Lateran 
 and after mass gives his blessing to the people. 
 
 At Pentecost papal chapel at 10 at the apostolic palace or 
 at S. Maria Maggiore. In the afternoon females are 
 permitted to visit the subterranean church of S. Peter's 
 at the Vatican. 
 
 Corpus Domini, at^8 o'clock commences the procession of 
 the holy Sacrament attended by the pope, the car- 
 dinals and all the clergy at Rome. During this and 
 the following days processions take place in different 
 parts of the town ; those of S. John Lateran the fol- 
 lowing Sunday and thursday, or of octave, are at- 
 tended by the pope and cardinals. 
 
 JUNE. 
 
 24. Festival of S. John Baptist. High mass at 10 o'clock at 
 S. John Lateran in presence of the pope and cardinals.
 
 XXXIV Indication of the ecclesiastical ceremonies. 
 
 28. Eve of the festival of SS. Peter and Paul. At 6 ponti- 
 fical vespei'S at S. Peter's. The subterraneous church 
 is opened to the piety of the faithful. 
 
 JULY. 
 
 14. Chapel of cardinals at the Sauti Apostoli , in honour 
 
 of S. Bonaventure. 
 31 . Grand festival at the Gesu in honour of S. Ignatius. 
 
 AUGUST. 
 
 1. Festival at S. Pietro in Vincoli. At the church on the 
 Esquiline the chains of S. Peter are exposed during 
 eight days to public veneration. 
 
 15. Assumption of the B. Virgin. High pontifical mass at 
 S. M. Major followed by the blessing from the balcony. 
 
 SEPTEMBER. 
 
 8. Nativity of the B. Virgin. High mass in presence of 
 the pope and cardinals at S. Maria del Popolo. 
 
 NOVEMBER. 
 
 1. Pontifical mass at the Vatican at 10 o'clock. At 3 ves- 
 
 pers for the deceased. 
 
 2, This day , sacred in the catholic church to the me- 
 
 mory of the deceased, the pope and cardinals are 
 present at high mass in theSixtine chapel On the 3d 
 and 5lh functions are celebrated at the palace for the 
 deceased popes and cardinals. Passages from scripture 
 or from ecclesiastical history analogous to the subject, 
 are represented iu wax in different churches, parti- 
 cularly at S. Maria in Trastevere , at the hospital of 
 
 t
 
 Indication of the ecclesiastical ceremonies, xxxv 
 SaDto Spirito, the Cousolazione , at the church of la 
 Morle in via Giulia and at S. John Lateran. 
 
 4. Festival of S. Carlo Borromeo ; the pope and cardinals 
 repair to the church of S. Carlo in the Corso, where 
 high mass is celebrated at 10 o'clock. 
 
 29. Papal chapel at S. Peter's for the repose of the soul 
 ofPius YIII. 
 
 DECEMBER. 
 
 The first Sunday of Advent , papal chapel at the Vatican 
 at 10 o'clock. After the service the pope carries the 
 holy Sacrament In procession and exposes it in the 
 Pauline chapel which is illuminated with wax candles. 
 
 Each Sunday of Advent papal chapel at the apostolic palace. 
 
 8. Conception of the B. Ylrgin. High mass in the papal 
 chapel. At 4 o'clock procession from the church of 
 Aracoeli which crosses a part of the forum. 
 
 24. Christmas eve. Vespers in the papal chapel. About 8 
 
 in the evening midnight mass is celebrated In pre- 
 sence of the pope and cardinals. 
 
 25. At 3 in the morning the night mass commences at 
 
 S. Maria Maggiore and the holy cradle Is exposed all 
 day on the high altar. At 10 high mass by the sove- 
 reign pontiff either at this church or at S. Peter's. 
 From this day till the 1st January the birth of our Saviour 
 is represented in figures in different churches ; that 
 of Aracoeli Is the most interesting. 
 
 26. Papal chapel at 10 In honour of S. Stephen. 
 
 27. The same in honour of S. John the evangelist. 
 
 29. Festival of S. Thomas bishop of Canterbury at his 
 church near the palazzo Farnese. 
 
 31. Grand vespers at the Vatican in the Sixllne chapel. At 
 the church of the Gesii a solemn Te Deiim is sung in 
 presence of the holy college and magistrates of Rome.
 
 XXXVI 
 
 OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 The mails arrive on mondays, tuesdays, thursdays , 
 Fridays and Saturdays and letters are delivered between 
 9 and 10. 
 
 The departures lake place the same days 5 the post 
 office is open for the receipt of letters until 3; on Saturdays 
 until 5 o'clock. 
 
 The Vatican and Capitol galleries are open to the 
 public on mondays and thursdays at the 20 Italian hour 
 viz : 1 o'clock in winter and 4 in summer. 
 
 Tickets are necessary for admission to the egyptian 
 and tuscan galleries at the Vatican ; these are obtained 
 by application to the respective ministers and consuls. 
 
 The same formality is requisite for the palazzo Spada, 
 the villa Albani and the villa Adriana at Tivoli. For these 
 permissions , application is made in writing to the pro- 
 prietors. 
 
 The private galleries are open daily to the public 
 (festivals excepted) from 10 till 2 o'clock.
 
 FIRST DAY 
 
 FROM PONTE MOLLE TO THE CAPITOL. 
 
 PONTE MOLLE. 
 
 X he road to Rome by Viterbo on the <iCassiani> , and 
 that by Otricoli on the «FIaminian» way, unite in the 
 neighbourhood of Monte Rosi. Two miles from the city 
 the traveller crosses the Tiber on the Ponte Molle , for- 
 merly called Molvius or Blilvius , an appellation said to 
 be derived from M. jEmilius Scaurus who built this 
 bridge , though Pliny asserts that it existed before the 
 battle of the Metaurus gained by the Romans over Asdrubal 
 near Fossombrone. The arrest of the ambassadors of the 
 Allobrogi , implicated in the conspiracy of Catiline , the 
 victory of Conslantine over IMaxenlins near Saxa Rubra 
 9 miles from Rome, have given a certain celebrity to this 
 bridge and its environs. A part of it is ancient , the other 
 part has been restored at various periods. 
 
 From the bridge , the road nearly coincides with the 
 ancient Yla Flaminia ; on a small eminence to the left is a 
 temple raised in honour of the aposlle Andrew , by Pope 
 Pius II 5 on the spot where he received the head of that 
 apostle, brought from the Peloponnesus, and a mile from 
 the city, Julius 111 erected a church, in honour of the same 
 aposllf , in commemoration oi his deliverance from capti- 
 vity \v 1527. The architecture of this church, and of the 
 Casino called Papa Giulio in ils vicinity , is by Yignola, 
 
 ' 1
 
 2 Guide of Rome 
 
 \ PORTA DEL FOPOLO. 
 
 When Honorlus rebuilt the city walls in 402, a gate 
 was opened on the Flaminian way ; under Narses , in the 
 second period of the VI century, it was placed in the 
 present spot. This gale , which derives its name from 
 the church of S. Maria del Popolo , was rebuilt by Yi- 
 gnola in 1561 according to the design of Michael Angelo. 
 The external part is decorated with four columns of the 
 doric order of breccia and granite j the internal ornaments 
 were designed by Bernini. 
 
 PIAZZA DEL POPOLO. 
 
 This piazza , formed by two large hemicycles , is 
 adorned with fountains , statues , an egyptiau obelisk , and 
 churches of nearly the same style of architecture from 
 which branch off three of the principal streets of Rome: 
 that in the middle called the Corso is a mile in length. 
 
 The statues of (he piazza represent Rome , between 
 the Anio and the Tiber; Neptune and the Tritons j Spring, 
 Summer, Autumn and Winter. The semicircle to the left 
 of the gate is surmounted by the public promenade of the 
 Pincian hill. 
 
 Adjoining the gate is the church called S. Maria del 
 Popolo founded , according to popular tradition, by Pope 
 Pascal 11 in the year 1099, to deliver the people from the 
 lioclurnal phantoms attributed by the vulgar to Nero who 
 was buried on the Pincian hill in the tomb of his family. 
 
 This church was rebuilt under Sixtus IV j Agostino 
 Chigi and others, at the close of the XV and beginning of 
 the- XVi century 5 vied with each other in decorating it 
 with monuments which render it one of the most inte- 
 resting of the ciiy.
 
 First day. 3 
 
 In ihe first chapel to the right on entering are paint- 
 ings hy Pinturicchio. The second, containing tlie tomb of 
 cardinal Cibo was built in the form of a greek cross, but 
 this was changed into a latin cross by the addition of the 
 vestibule. It is adorned by sixteen columns of the corin- 
 thian order with slabs of verde and nero antico , violet 
 marble and alabaster. The painting on the left represents 
 the martyrdom of S. Laurence by Morandi , and that on 
 the right S. Catherine, by Daniel. The painting over the 
 altar is by Carlo Maratta. The third chapel, dedicated by 
 Sixtus IV to the B. "Virgin and all the Saints , was painted 
 by Pinturicchio. 
 
 The tombs by Sansovino are the best sample of scul- 
 pture existing at Rome after the revival of the art. In the 
 chapel on the right of the altar is a painting of Annibal 
 Caracci representing the Assumption. 
 
 The chapel , dedicated to the Madonna di Loreto , 
 and belonging to the Chigi family , was built and deco- 
 rated according to the design of Raphael who also fur- 
 nished the designs of the mosaics of the cupola , of the 
 paintings of the friese , and of the altar piece which re- 
 presents the nativity of the Virgin , commenced by 
 Sebastian del Piombo and finished by Francis Salviatij 
 of Its four statues, the two which represent Daniel in 
 the lion's den, and Habacuc with the angel are by Ber- 
 nini ; and the other two representing the prophets Ellas 
 and Jonas seated on the whale , are by Lorenzetio ; these 
 last are highly esteemed particularly the Jonas which 
 was executed according to the model given by Raphael 
 and under his direction. 
 
 The church of ftlonte Santo was begun in 1662 by 
 order of Alexander VH and finished by cardinal Gaslaldi 
 who entrusted the execution of Rainaldi's design to Ber- 
 nini and Carlo Fontana. — II contains the busts of several 
 Popes, a painting by Carlo IMaratta, representing S. Francis
 
 4 Guide of Rome 
 
 with the apostle S. James in presence of the B. "Virgin ; 
 and the history of S. Magdalen de' Pazzi, painted by Ge- 
 mignani. 
 
 S. MARIA de' MIRACOLI. 
 
 The four angels supporting the image of the B. Virgin, 
 over the high altar , are by Raggi : the statues of Faith 
 and Charity by Lucenti , who also executed the bronze 
 bust of cardinal Gaslaldi which surmounts his tomb. 
 
 In entering the Coi'so the first church on the left is 
 that of 
 
 GESli* E MARIA. 
 
 Ornamented with various kinds of fine marble , and 
 with gilt stuccoes. It contains several tombs of the Bolo- 
 gnetti family. The sacristy is adorned with some fresco 
 paintings by Lanfranc. Nearly opposite is the church of 
 
 S. GIACOMO DEGL' INCURABILI. 
 
 This was built in 1338 by cardinal Pietro Colonna , 
 and rebuilt in 1600 according to the designs of Francis da 
 Volterra. In the second chapel on the right is a bas relief 
 bv Legros representing S. Francis of Paul praying for the 
 intercession of the B. Virgin , and two paintings whose 
 subjects are connected with the life of this saint. 
 
 S. CARLO. 
 
 'j^his church , one of the most magnificent of the city, 
 is divided into three naves by pilasters of the Corinthian 
 order. It was begun in 1612: the cupola, the tribune, 
 and the high altar are by Pietro da Cortoua. The painting 
 over the altar, representing S. Charles presented to the 
 Madonna by our Saviour , is one of the best works of
 
 First day. 5 
 
 Carlo Maratia : the painlings of the cupola and tribune 
 are by Giacinlo Branrli. 
 
 In following the Corso the first large palace on the 
 right is 
 
 THE PALAZZO RUSPOLI. 
 
 The principal ornament of vvliich is the grand stair 
 case , formed of 11 5 steps each of a single block of white 
 marble. The gallery 80 feet in length , 26 in height and 
 1 1 if 2 in breadth , contains some fresco painlings bv 
 Giacomo Ziicchi , a pupil of Vasari. The ground floor is 
 now used as a coffee house. 
 
 S. LORENZO IN LUCINA. 
 
 X^ 
 
 Sixtus III , it is believed , built this church in the 
 year 435. It certainly existed at the end of the YI century 
 at the time of S. Gregory the great : it was restored by 
 Adrian 1 in 780, and rebuilt by Celestin III in 1196. 
 
 Over the high altar is Guido Reni's celebrated picture 
 representing the Crucifixion : the chapel dedicated to 
 S. Francis was painted by Mark Benefial and a monu- 
 ment to Poussin who was buried in this church has lately 
 been executed , and erected here , by Lemoyne. 
 
 S. SILVESTER IN CAPITE. 
 
 Tradition refers the origin of this church to the 
 year 261. Amongst the numerous relics preserved in it, 
 the most remarkable is the head of S. John the Baptist. 
 The frescoes of the Assumption, of S. John, S. Silvester, 
 and of other saints are by Brandi. In the first chapel on 
 the left the paintings are by Trevisani , and are some of 
 the best works of that artist. 
 
 1*
 
 6 Guide of Rome 
 
 THE PALAZZO CIIIGI. 
 
 This palace was commenced by Giacomo della Porta , 
 was continued by Maderno and finished by della Greca. 
 It was destined by Alexander Vll as a residence for the 
 Chigi family to which he belonged. 
 
 It contains three celebrated antique statues: the first 
 representing a Venus on which is an ancient greek in- 
 scription purporting that it is the work of Menopliantes , 
 executed on the model of the statue seen at Troy. It is of 
 parian marble and was found on the Ccelian hill. The 
 second represents Mercury and is one of the hermes called 
 attic by Pausanias : the drapery is beautiful and this 
 work may be considered , in every respect , as belonging 
 to the most flourishing period of sculpture. The third, 
 also of parian marble, represents Apollo with the laurel 
 and serpent. This statue is of fine design and execution 
 and is probably of the time of Adrian. 
 
 The gallery contains some paintings by several of the 
 great masters amongst which we shall particularly notice 
 the following. 
 
 S. Anthony, S. Pascal, S. Cecily and an Ascension 
 by Benvenuto Garofalo. 
 
 S. Francis and Magdalen by Guerciuo. 
 
 S. Barlhelemy and S. John by Dosso Dosso. 
 
 A Battle-piece by Salvalor Rosa. 
 
 An Infant Jesus with Angels by Albano. 
 
 A portrait of Laura by Paul Veronese. 
 
 A Magdalen by Spagnoletto. 
 
 The carrying the Ark by Palma glovane. 
 
 Our Saviour and S. Thomas by Ant. Caracci. 
 
 Madonna and child by Albano. 
 
 Portrait of Pieiro Aretino by Titian- 
 Satyr disputing with a philosopher by Salvator Rosa. 
 
 Holy Family by Poussin.
 
 First day. 7 
 
 Couversioti of S. Paul by Domenichino. 
 Two portraits by Tintoretto. 
 Marriage of S. Catherine by Sodoma. 
 
 THE PIAZZA COLONNA. 
 
 Occupies a part of the forum of Antoninus Pius, and 
 derives its name from the column raised by the senate to 
 Marcus Aurelius in commemoration of his victories in 
 Germany over the Marcomanui. The bas reliefs repiesent 
 these exploits. The figure of Jupiter Pluvius , to vphom 
 the pagans attributed the extraordinary rain obtained 
 from the true God by the prayers of the thundering 
 legion , is worthy of particular attention. 
 
 The column is formed of 28 blocks of white marble , 
 its diameter is of 11 i/a feet, height 128 ifz including 
 statue 24 1/2 : a winding stair case of 190 steps leads to 
 the top where in 1589 Domenico Fontaua , by order of 
 Siytus V, placed the bronze statue of the apostle S. Paul. 
 
 In front of the column is the general Post office, and 
 in the adjoining piazza of Monte Citorio, which occupies 
 the site of the ancient theatre of Statillus Taurus , is an- 
 other egyptian obelisk- 
 
 TEMPIE OF ANTONINUS. 
 
 The plan of this building clearly indicates that it 
 was once a temple and its proximity to the forum of An- 
 toninus ,and the inscription discovered in the XVI century 
 are sufficient arguments to prove that it was dedicated to 
 Antoninus Pius by the Roman senate and people in the 
 forum bearing his name. 
 
 Its remain sconsist in 11 columns supporting a mag- 
 nificent marble entablature. These columns formed the 
 lateral part of ihe portico which surrounded the temple:
 
 8 Ctiide of Rome 
 
 they are fluled , and of the corinthian order ; 4 feet 
 2 inches in diameter, 59 i^a feet in height: the base is 
 attic and the capital ornamented with olive leaves. In the 
 court are fragments of part of the cella. 
 
 In the XVII century these ruins first served as a 
 fiont to the cuslom house. 
 
 ^ 'Vz 
 
 CHURCH OF S. IGNATIUS. 
 
 Cardinal LudovisI, a nephew of Gregory XV built this 
 church at his own expense: it was begun in 1626, and 
 finished in 1685. Domenichino made two different designs 
 from which Padre Grassi formed the one that was fol- 
 lowed. — The front by Algarde is in travertine , and has 
 two orders of columns , corinthian and composite. 
 
 The interior , divided into three naves , is ornamented 
 by the fresco paintings of Padre Pozzi , a Jesuit who de- 
 signed the finest chapels of this church. A has relief by 
 Legros represents S. Luigi Gonzaga whose body reposes 
 under the altar in an urn covered with lapislazzuli : near 
 the side entrance is the tomb of Gregory XV. 
 
 COLLEGIO ROMANO. 
 
 This extensive building was raised in 1582 by Gre- 
 gory XllI on the designs of Bartolomeo Ammanati. It 
 contains a spacious court, surrounded with a portico. The 
 latin , greek and hebrew languages , the different bran- 
 ches of belles-lettres, philosophy and theology, are taught 
 here under the direction of the society of Jesus. In the 
 building annexed are an observatory , a library and the 
 museum founded by padre Kircher, containing numerous 
 objects of antiquity and of natural history with a complete 
 ( ollection of the Roman As and its subdivisions , bequeat- 
 hed by cardinal Zelada to this museum.
 
 First day. 
 
 d- 
 
 IN THE SCIARRA PALACE. 
 
 Is a large collection of paintings the principal of 
 which we shall proceed to point out. 
 
 In the first room: Sacrifice of Abraham by Gherardo 
 delle Notli, Cleopatra hy Lanfranc, Decollation of S. John 
 Baptist by Valentin, Deposition by Bassano , the Sama- 
 ritan woman by Garofalo: Madonna by Titian. 
 
 The second room contains a collection of landscapes : 
 a Salvator Rosa , two Claudes representing sun rise 
 and sun set , Both , a waterfall , a view of Vesuvius of the 
 Venitian school , two paintings by Paul Brill , several by 
 Orizzonle and Locatelli , a Nicholas Poussin representing 
 5. Matthew 5 a Breughel , St. John baptizing our Saviour. 
 A view of Naples by Canaletto , and other landscapes 
 by Orizzonte and the school of Claude. 
 
 In the third room is a Calvary of the school of Mi- 
 chael Angelo, marriage of Cana by Pomarancio, a Madonna 
 by Francesco Francia. A Benvenuto Garofalo representing 
 Circe transforming men into beasts. 
 
 The other chief pointings of this room are a Madonna 
 and child and several saints by Andrea del Sarlo, a holj* 
 Farally by Scarsellino , a NqU me tangere and vestal 
 Claudia , and the adoration of the Kings by Garofalo , two 
 flemish pieces , three small pictures by Titian. 
 
 Passing into the fourth and last room , and com- 
 mencing from the left, are two fine pictures by Schidone, 
 the first representing the parable of the wheat and the 
 chaff, and the second , Arcadia. Dido abandoned , by Scar- 
 sellino , two Evangelists by Guercino : the next picture is 
 the violin player , supposed to be the celebrated Tebal- 
 deo, a work of Raphael in 1518, according to the original 
 inscription, Herodias receiving the head of S. John by 
 Giorgione , the Samaritan woman by Albano , the well
 
 10 Guide of Rome 
 
 known picture of the gamblers by Caravaggio , and thai 
 celebrated painting of vanity and modesty, by Leonardo 
 da Vinci. — The other distinguished works in this room 
 are Orpheus in the palace of Pluto ., and a fair by Breu- 
 ghel : two Wagdalens by Guido , the family of Titian 
 painted by himself, a S. Jerome by Gucrcino , and the 
 portrait known by the name of « Bella di Tiziano" painted 
 by that artist. 
 
 Several discoveries made under Pius IV, and in 1614, 
 have proved that in the vicinity of this palace, near the 
 modern Arco de' Carbognani , was the triumphal arch 
 raised by the Pioman senate and people to the emperor 
 Claudius after the conquest of Britain. 
 
 S. MARCELLO. 
 
 Built in the IV century on the site of a house occupied 
 by S. Lucina a Roman matron, in which S. Marcellus I 
 died J it was rebuilt in 1519 on the designs of Giacomo 
 Sansovino. The most remarkable paintings of this churcli 
 are those of the chapel of the Crucifix where Pierin del 
 Yaga has represented the creation of Eve. 
 
 S. MARIA IN VIA LATA. 
 
 This church , according to ancient tradition , was 
 built on the spot occupied by the house of the centurion 
 with whom S. Paul resided when sent to Rome by Festus. 
 It is added that the fountain which still exists sprang up 
 that the apostle might be enabled to baptize those whom 
 lie converted to Christianity. An oratory was built here 
 soon after , but the soil of Rome having risen to its present 
 level , this oratory is now under ground , it is however 
 easy of access by means of a convenient stair case. On the 
 altar are the portaits of SS. Peter and Paul by Fancelli.
 
 First day. 1 1 
 
 The church wns built in the YlII century , renewed 
 in 1485, and again in 1662. The columns ol' the nave are 
 of cipolline marble coaled with Sicilian jasper. 
 
 PALAZZO DORIA. "^ tTT: 
 
 The Doria family are justly ranked among the most 
 ancient and the most illustrious nobility of Italy. This 
 palace contains a splendid collection of paintings the prin- 
 cipal of which are : 
 
 In the first room , called tlie saloon of Poussin : nu- 
 merous landscapes by tliat celebrated artist , two sea- 
 views by Monpair , a Turkish woman on horseback by 
 Castiglione, and some paintings by Rosa di Tivoli, in his 
 best style. 
 
 In the second room is a S. Catherine by Scipione 
 Gaetano , S. Dorothy by Lanfranc , two landscapes by 
 Both, a Castiglione, and S. Eustachius by Albert Durer: 
 three Bassani representing Christ driving the money 
 changers out of the temple , the flight of Jacob , and the 
 temptation of Christ , three other paintings by the same 
 artist representing the sacrifice of Noah after the deluge, 
 the apparition of Jesus to the disciples of Emaus , and an 
 « Ecce homo» ; a Giorgione , a S. Sebastian by Agostino 
 Caracci , a Tempesta , and a landscape by Poussin. 
 
 The third room contains a holy Family by Garofalo , 
 the Endymion of Guercino, the mistress of Titian by that 
 artist , a deposition from the cross by Paul Veronese, a 
 portrait of Macchiavelli by Bronzino , a Vandyk and a 
 Guercino , the death of Abel by Salvator Rosa, two por- 
 traits by Titian, one representing Janscnius. 
 
 The other most remarkable pictures of this room arc a 
 Pierin del Vaga, a landscape representing the apparition of 
 Emaus by Both, a holy Family by Pictro Perugino, a Diana 
 and Endymion by Rubens, portraits by Titian and Yandyk.
 
 i 2 Guide of Rome 
 
 Some very fine portraits decorate the fourth room : 
 After the portrait of a female by Rubens , comes a large 
 picture representing the celebrated admiral Andrea Doria 
 by Dosso Dossi , and a splendid portrait of the same per- 
 sonage bv Sebastian del Piombo , two Holbeins , one re- 
 presenting himself and the other his wife. 
 
 In the fifth room are an Icarus and Dedalus by Al~ 
 bano, a holy Family of Ludovico Caracci , a Roman cha- 
 rity by Valentin, a Garofalo, and two S. Jeromes one by 
 Palma and the other by Spagnoletto. 
 
 The gallery which may be considered as the most 
 magnificent of Rome , contains some of the most splendid 
 paintings of this collection. 
 
 The first little picture on the left representing the 
 dispute of Christ with the doctors of the law is a work 
 of Dossi of Ferrara, the battle pieces are by Borgognone, 
 the visitation of the B. Virgin by Garofalo. We may next 
 observe three beautiful landscapes by Domenichino , the 
 portrait of a Franciscan friar, said to be his confessor, 
 by Rubens , a Magdalen by Titian , and six semicircular 
 landscapes by Annibale Caracci, representing the flight 
 into Egypt , the visitation , assumption , Christ carried 
 lo the sepulchre , the birth of Jesus , and the adoration 
 of the Magi. 
 
 On this side of the gallery are also : a Lot with his 
 daughters by Gherardo delle Notfi , two S. Francis by 
 Annibal Caracci, the death of Tancred, a portrait by Guer- 
 cino , and those two splendid landscapes , the wind mill 
 and the temple of Apollo by Claude Lorraine. 
 
 The opposite wing of the gallery begins with a 
 beautiful landscape of Claude, representing the repose in 
 Egypt , a portrait by Murillo, a holy Family by Garofalo, 
 the prodigal son by Guercino, two other landscapes by 
 Claude , a Magdalen of Annibal Caracci , and a fine com- 
 position of Guercino, representing S. Agnes , a Madonna 
 
 1
 
 First day. 1 3 
 
 of Guido , a portrait of luuocent X by Velasquez, a 
 S. John Baptist by Guercino , the marriage of S. Cathe- 
 rine by Garofalo , a Salvalor Rosa representing Belisarius, 
 and our Saviour, served by angels in the desert, by Both. 
 The portraits of Luther , Calvin and Catherine are copies 
 from the original of Giorgione existing in the Pilti palace 
 at Florence 5 the fine picture, representing a society of 
 misers, is a classic work of the farrier of Antwerp. 
 
 In the 4lh wing we observe a holy family of fra 
 Bartolomeo , a Susanna by Annibale Caracci , the four 
 elements by Breughel , a landscape by Domenichino , a 
 Samson and a S. Paul by Guercino , a Crucifixion by 
 Michael Angelo , and the sacrifice of Abraham by Titian. 
 
 The principal remaining pictures are a kermesse or 
 country festival by Tcniers , two landscapes by Both, a 
 portrait of Queen Giovanna the younger by Leonardo da 
 Vinci, a copy, by Nicholas Poussin , of the celebrated 
 antique fresco of the Vatican known by the name of the 
 "Nozze Aldobrandine » j a portrait of a duke of Ferrara 
 by Tintoretto , another portrait and a S. Catherine by 
 Titian , a deposition from the cross by il Padovano , two 
 small Gherardo delle Notti, and a S.Jerome by Spagnolelto. 
 
 VENETIAN PALACE. 
 
 This palace was built in 1468 by Paul II, a Venetian, 
 according to the design of Julian^de Majano,with materials 
 taken from the Colosseum and forum of Nerva. It was 
 during a long period the residence of the sovereign 
 Pontiifs, but was given by Clement VIU to the republic 
 of Venice for the use of her ambassadors to the holy see. 
 It now belongs to the Austrian Government.
 
 14 Guide of Rome 
 
 CHURCH OF S. MARCO. 
 
 The pontiir S. Mark built this church in 337 and 
 dedicated it to S. Mark the Evangelist. It was rebuilt by 
 Gregory IV in 833, Paul II preserved the ancient tribune 
 with its mosaic ornaments , and renewed the rest of the 
 church in 1469. In the chapel of S. Mark are paintings 
 by Pietro Perugino and by Borgognone. 
 
 THE PALAZZO TORLONIA. 
 
 Contains several paintings by Camuccini, Landi, and 
 the celebrated group of Canova representing Hercules 
 throwing Lycas into the sea. 
 
 Under the present duke Alexander the collection of 
 works of sculpture and painting has been so considerably 
 encreased , and the embellishments have been executed in 
 such a style of splendour , that this palace may now be 
 considered as one of the most magnificent of Rome. 
 
 CHIESA DEL GESU . 
 
 This splendid temple, belonging to the Jesuits, was 
 commenced in 1575 by Cardinal Alexander Fariiese on 
 the designs of VIgnole and continued by Glacomo della 
 Porta who raised the cupola and front with its corinlhian 
 and composite pilasters. The inferior is decorated with 
 marble, gilt stuccoes, sculptures and paintings. The fres- 
 coes of the tribune, of the cupola, and ceiling may be 
 reckoned amongst the best works of Bacicclo. 
 
 In the chapel of the right arm of the cross Carlo Ma- 
 ratla has represented the death of S. Francis Xavier. The 
 high altar has four fine columns of giallo antico and a 
 picture of Muziano representing the circumcision of Christ.
 
 First day. 1 5 
 
 The chapel of S. Ignatius, designed by padre Pozzi, 
 IS one of the richest and most magnificent of Roftie. Its 
 four columns with their hase and capitals are covered with 
 lapis lazzuli. The pedestals of the columns, the entablature 
 and pediment are of verde antico. In the centre of the 
 pediment is a marble group representing the holy Tri- 
 nity by Ludovisi, the figure of our Saviour is by Oltone. 
 The globe held by the Eternal Father is a single piece 
 of lapis lazzuli. Padre Pozzi painted the S. Ignatius 
 placed over the altar; behind this picture is the statue of 
 the saint in silver : His body is under the altar in an urn 
 of gilt bronze , on which are represented dilFerent actions 
 of this saint. At the side of the altar are two groups repre- 
 senting the Christian faith embraced by barbarous nations, 
 by Teudon ; Religion , armed with the cross and 
 beating down heresy, by Legros. The paintings of the 
 ceiling of this chapel are by Baciccio. 
 
 TOMB OF CAIUS POBLICIUS BIBULUS. 
 
 The family of lbs Poblicii was plebeian , and vras 
 divided into two branches one bearing the surname of 
 Malleolus, the otlier of Bibulus ; to a member of the 
 latter branch this tomb was erected. The inscription still 
 existing informs us, that by a senatus consultum, and a 
 decree of the people , a place was assigned to Caius Po- 
 blicius Bibulus, the son of Lucius, edile of the people, 
 in order to erect a sepulchral monument to himself and 
 his posterity, in consideration of his honour and valour. 
 
 C, POBLICIO L. F. ElBVLO . AED. PL. HONORIS 
 
 VIRTVTISQVE CAVSSA. SENATVS 
 
 CONSVLTO rOPVLlQVE IVSSV LOCVS 
 
 MONVMENTO . QVO . IPSE POSTEREIQVE 
 
 ElVS . INFERRBNTVR PVBUCE . DATVS . EST.
 
 16 Guide of Rome 
 
 The period of the plebeian edility of BIbuliis is not pre- ■ 
 cisely known but it is conjectured , from the style of the 
 monument and the orthography of the inscription , that 
 he lived in the time of Caesar. This tomb was outside the 
 walls of Servius TuUius but was enclosed within the 
 walls erected by Aurelian in 274, and by Honorius in 402. 
 The western front which still remains was adorned with 
 four doric pilasters , with the statue of Bibulus in the 
 centre. Towards the south front are remains of the orna- 
 mented architrave and friese. In consequence of the ele- 
 vation of the soil the sepulchral chamber is now fifteen feet 
 under ground , and serves as a cellar to the house built 
 on the ruins of this monument.
 
 (giffUDia D® sDita 
 
 SECOND DAY 
 
 FROM THE CAPITOL TO THE LATE RAN. 
 
 THE CAPITOL. ^ L- 
 
 -I his celebraled hill was thus named by Tarquinius 
 Priscus ; in digging the earth in order to lay the foundations 
 of the temple of Jupiter , a head (caput) was found on th« 
 spot which circumstance the augur considered as a pre- 
 sage that the city would become the capital of the world. 
 
 This hill was previously named Saturnius, from the 
 town built here by Saturn , and Tarpeius after the death 
 of Tarpeia , the daughter of the commander to whom 
 Romulus had entrusted its defence against the attacks of 
 the Sabines. 
 
 Its form is an irregular ellipsis, sloping at each extre- 
 mity to the west ; the two elevations at the extremities 
 were known by the ancients under the name of Capito- 
 lium and arx , on account of the temple of Jupiter Capi- 
 tolinus , situated to the north , and of the citadel to the 
 west ; the space between them was named intermontium. 
 The height of this hill above the level of the sea is 150 feet 
 and the circumference 4400. 
 
 In ancient times it was enclosed on all sides , being 
 accessible only from the forum by the « Clivus sacer or 
 asyli», the « Clivus capitolinus » and the « Centum gradns 
 rupis Tarpeiffio. By the first access those who obtained the 
 the honours of a triumph , ascended to the temple 3 its 
 
 2^-
 
 1 8 Guide of Rome 
 
 direction followed the line of the cordonaia which now 
 leads to the arch of Severus. The cliviis Capitolinus formed 
 two branches, one leading from the forum to the arch of 
 Tiberius situated on the spot where the hospital named 
 the Consolazione now stands , the pavement of the other 
 remains near the column of Phocas ; the two branches 
 unite behind the temple of Fortune under a modern house; 
 they followed the direction of the inlermontium passing 
 under the entrance of the tabularium , and the tower 
 bearing the arms of Boniface IX. The third ascent led to 
 the citadel near the Tarpeian rock. 
 
 The citadel or arx was enclosed with walls and towers 
 even on the side of the intermontium. These walls were 
 of large blocks of volcanic stone or grey tuffo a specimen 
 of which is still visible in a gallery under the CaffarelU 
 palace. Within the arx were the houses or rather cottages 
 of Romulus , of Tatius , of Manlius , the temple of Jupiler 
 Feretrius built by Romulus to receive the spoils of the 
 victory which he gained over Acron , chief of the Cerum- 
 nians, and many other temples and altars or which account 
 it was also named <(Ara sacrorutna. 
 
 On the north side of the intermontium was the 
 asylum established by Romulus in order to encrease the 
 population of his city ; on the south were the tabularium, 
 the athenffium and capitoliue library. The tabularium de- 
 rived its name from the bronze table deposited in it, on 
 which were inscribed the senatus consulli , the decrees 
 of the people , the treaties of peace , of alliance and other 
 public documents. It was built by Catulus , the successor 
 of Sylla in the diclalure, 84 years before the christian era ; 
 was burnt in tlie contest betw^een the soldiers of Yitellius 
 and Vespasian , and was rebuilt by the latter who col- 
 lected , in 5000 bronze tables, the acts which had been 
 scattered over the whole empire.
 
 ^«;
 
 Second day. 1 9 
 
 Some remains of the portico of tin's edifice are still 
 existing towards the forum j ihey are of the doric order in 
 peperino , with the capitals in travertine. 
 
 On the summit of the hill overlooking the Corso , 
 where the church of Araceli now stands , was the cele- 
 brated temple of Jupiter Capitolinus built by Tarquin 
 the Proud in fulfilment of the vow made by Tarquinius 
 Priscus, after the last Sabine war. Having been destroyed 
 three times by fire it was rebuilt by Sylla , Vespasian and 
 Domitian. Under Sylla its dimensions were, according to 
 Dionisiusof Halicarnassus in Bomanfeelcircumference7705 
 length 200, breadth 185. The front having a triple row of 
 columns, (which was double on the sides) faced the south. 
 The cella was divided into three naves with ediculoe or 
 chapels j of those on the sides , one was dedicated to Juno, 
 the other to Minerva, and the third in the centre to Ju- 
 piter. It was in front of this temple that the generals to 
 whom triumphal honours bed been decreed , sacrificed for 
 the victories which they had obtained , and in the court 
 named the area capitolina enclosed with porticoes they 
 partook of a banquet after the sacrifice. 
 
 This temple was entire under Honorius; Stilicon stript 
 it of part of its ornaments ; Genseric in 445 carried away 
 the gilt bronzes which formed its covering ; in the Ylll 
 century it was falling into ruins, and in the XI had alto- 
 gether disappeared. 
 
 MODERN CAPITOL. 
 
 This edifice contains numerous oljjccts of art , which 
 render it a spot of the highest interest. The modern embel- 
 lishments are works of Paul III who raised the two lateral 
 buildings on the designs of Michael Angelo, renewed the 
 front of the senatorial palace, opened the street to the 
 north west , and built the steps of the ascent.
 
 20 Guide of Rome 
 
 At the foot of the balustrades are two egyplian lions, 
 of black granite , found near the church of S. Stefano j on 
 the top, are two colossal statues of Castor and Pollux, in 
 pentelic marble, found near the Jews' synagogue ; two 
 marble trophies , called the trophies of Marius , though 
 the style of sculpture resembles that of the early times of 
 Septlmius Severus 5 two statues of Conslantine Augustus 
 and of Constantine Caisar found in the thermse of Con- 
 stantine on the Quirinal ; two columns , the one on the 
 right of the ascent is an ancient mile-stone indicating the 
 first mile of the Appian way where it was found in 1584; 
 the column on the left is modern ; the ball , however , is 
 ancient , and as it was found at the base of Trajan's co- 
 lumn it is supposed that it once contained the ashes of 
 that emperor. 
 
 In the centre of the square is the equestrian statue of 
 Marcus Aurelius, found near S. John Lateran's and placed 
 on this spot by Paul 111 under the direction of Michael 
 Angelo. This is the only bronze equestrian statue re- 
 maining of all those which adorned ancient Rome. 
 
 SENATORIAL PALACE. 
 
 On the ruins of the tabularium Boniface IX built a 
 palace in 1380 for the residence of the senators. Paul III 
 ornamented it with corinthian pilasters under the direction 
 of Michael Angelo. At the fountain placed here by Sixlus V 
 are three antique statues , one represents Minerva the 
 drapery of which is of porphyry, found near Cora; and 
 the two others the Nile and the Tiber in parian marble , 
 found in the temple of Serapis on the Quirinal. 
 
 The large hall leads to the tower of the Capitol raised 
 under Gregory XIU by Longhi , a situation offering the 
 most extensive views of Rome and its environs.
 
 Second day. 2 1 
 
 \' 
 
 MUSEUM. 
 
 In the court is a colossal statue of the Ocean formerly 
 stationed near the arch of Sevcrus, with two satyrs, and 
 two sarcophagi , of inferior style but interesting as con- 
 nected with ancient customs ; on one is represented a 
 double chase wi(h arms and nets j on the walls are inscri- 
 ptions in memory of several prelorian soldiers. 
 
 PORTICO. 
 
 To the left of the entrance are a colossal statue of 
 Minerva , a head of Cybele from the villa Adriana , and a 
 fragment of a statue of a captive king in violet marble. 
 
 On the right of the entrance are a statue of Diana of 
 beautiful drapery; a colossal statue of Diana, a Jupiter, 
 an Adrian offering sacrifice , and a remnant of a statue of 
 Ceres in porphyry remarkable for the elegance of the 
 drapery. 
 
 HALL OF INSCIllPTIONS. 
 
 Around the walls are 122 imperial and consular in- 
 scriptions , offering a chronological series from Tiberius 
 to Theodosius. In ibe centre is a square altar of ancient 
 greek style , on which are represented the labours of 
 Hercules. 
 
 HALL OF THE URN. 
 
 Thus named from a large sarcophagus in while 
 marble covered with bas-reliefs relating the most remar- 
 kable incidents in the life of Achilles; in the front is re- 
 presented bis quarrel with Agamemnon on account of 
 Biiseis, on the sides his departure from Scyros, and ven- 
 geance for the death of Patroclus , behind is Priam sup-
 
 22 Guide of Rome 
 
 plicating for the body of Heclor. The remaining objects 
 of inlerest in this room are a mosaic found at Antium ; a 
 Pahiiyrcaii monument erected to Agliobolus and IMalac- 
 belus as is ascertained by the inscription in Greek and 
 Pahnyrean j a has relief of a priest of Cybele, and a small 
 statue of Pluto and Cerberus. 
 
 On the walls of the stair case are fragments of the 
 ancient plan of Rome found in the ruins of the temple 
 of Remus on the sacred way. We may notice particularly 
 the site of the baths of Sura, the porticoes of Oclavia, and 
 Hercules , buildings in the Forum viz : the Emilia and 
 Julia basllicks , the gra;costasIs , a part of the imperial pa- 
 lace , the amphilhcalre , ihealre of Pompey , and part of 
 the therma; of Til us. 
 
 HALL OF THE VASE. 
 
 The large marble vase formerly in the centre was 
 found near the loiub of Cecilia Meteila and is placed on 
 an antique altar having figures of the twelve divinities 
 with iheir several attributes j another vase in bronze found 
 in the sea near Antium was a present from king Milhri- 
 dates Eupator to the gymnasium of the eupalorists.On the 
 two sarcophagi are sculptured in has relief the formation 
 and destruction of man according to the Neo-Platonie 
 system and the fable of Diana and Endymion. We may 
 notice also the has relief of the Iliac table which relates 
 several events of the Iliad , a tripod , and two statues of 
 the Epheslau Diana. The mosaic representing doves is an 
 imitation of the celebrated work of Sosus , mentioned by 
 Pliny and then existing at Pergamus in Asia Minor , it was 
 found in the Villa Adriana at Tivoli.
 
 Second day. 23 
 
 ' GALLERY. 
 
 Opposite to the great slair case are the busts of 
 Marcus Aurclius , and Seplimius Severus found at Autium 
 in the ruins of the imperial villa, and in the gallery those 
 of Cato the censor , Scipio Africanus , Pliocion , Adrian, 
 Caligula, Caracalh, IMarcus Aurclius , and Domitius iEno- 
 harbus. The inscriptions on the walls were found in the 
 columbarium or sepulchral chamber of the slaves and 
 freedmen of Livia , on the Appian way ; the statue of a 
 woman in a slate of intoxication on the Nomcntana. On a 
 v»se of a curious form is figured a Bacchanalian scene, and 
 on a sarcophagus the rape of Proserpine. 
 
 HALL OF THE E3IPER0RS. 
 
 On the walls are several interesting has reliefs : the 
 hunt of the calydoiiian boar by Meleager ; a sleeping En- 
 dymion , considered as a master piece of antique scid- 
 pture ; llylas carried away by the Nymphs. 
 
 In the middle of this room in the seated statue of 
 Agrippina, wife of Germnnicus , but in the opinion of 
 some, of an unknown Roman lady. The busts of the em- 
 perors empresses and Ccesars are placed in clu-onolo- 
 gical order. 
 
 The series commences with that of Julius Caesar: we 
 shall notice particularly those of Marcellus, the nephew 
 of Augustus , Tiberius , his brother Drusus and Germa- 
 nicus, Caligula, Messalina, Nero, Poppsea his wife, Otho, 
 Vitellius, Julia daughter of Titus , Plolina wife of Trajan, 
 Adrian , Sabina his wife , and ^lius Caesar his son by 
 adoption , the latter a bust in high preservation, and very 
 rare. The remainder are Annius Verus, found near Civila 
 Lavinia ; Commodus , his wife Crispina , Didius Julian ,
 
 24 Guide of Rome 
 
 Pescennlus Niger, Seplimius SeveruSj Decius and Julian 
 surnamed ihe Apostate. 
 
 HALL OF THE PHILOSOPHERS. 
 
 A collection of portraits of literary and philosophic 
 personages of antiquity collected here has given it this de- 
 nomination. The most interesting has reliefs are those of 
 Hector conveyed to the funeral pile, accompanied by He- 
 cuba and Andromache in tears j a sacrifice to Hygeia , in 
 rosso antico, and fragment of a Bacchanalian bearing the 
 name of the sculptor Callimachus. 
 
 Among these busts, w^hich have been identified, are 
 the following: Diogenes, Demosthenes, three of Euripides, 
 four of Homer , two of Sophocles , Thucydides , Julian , 
 Archimedes and Sappho. 
 
 SALOON. 
 
 The two columns of giallo antico 12 1/2 feet in height 
 were found near the tomb of Cecilia Metella j the two Vic- 
 tories 5 supporting the arms of Clement XII, at the arch 
 of Marcus Aurelius , in the Corso. A Jupiter and an Escu- 
 lapius in nero antico at Antium j the two Centaurs, in the 
 Villa Adriana ; an infant Hercules , on the Aventine; this 
 statue is placed on a rectangular altar , the bas reliefs of 
 which allude to the Theogony of Hesiod ; Rhea in the 
 pains of labor, the same goddess offering a stone to Saturn 
 instead of her son Jupiter, Jupiter nourished by the goat 
 Ainallhea , and the Corybantes drowning his cries by the 
 clash of arms : Jupiter raised to the throne in the midst of 
 the divinities. 
 
 The most remarkable statues are two Amazons, Mars 
 and Venus, a Minerva, a Pythian Apollo , a colossal bust 
 of Trajan with the civic crown, a gilt bronze statue of
 
 Second day. 25 
 
 Hercules holding in one hand a club , in the other tl>e 
 apples of the garden of the Ilesperides j an animated old 
 woman supposed to he Hecuba ; a colossal I)ust of Anto- 
 ninus Pius, and an llarpocrales, found al the Villa Adriana. 
 
 HALL OF THE FAUN. 
 
 In the middle of this room is the beautiful Faun in 
 rosso anlico , found al the Villa Adriana, and fixed to the 
 wall is the bronze inscription containing a part of the 
 original senatus consultum granting the imperial dignity 
 to Vespasian. 
 
 We next observe on a sarcophagus the fable of Diana 
 and Endymion ; an altar dedicated to Isis ; a child playing 
 with a mask of Silenus, the most perfect statue of a child 
 handed down to us from antiquity ; a Cupid breaking his 
 bow 5 a child playing with a swan; this is a copy of a 
 work in bronze , executed by the Carthaginian Boethius , 
 and praised by Pliny ; a large sarcophagus in fine preser- 
 vation representing the battle of Theseus and the Athe- 
 nians against the Amazons; the has reliefs which represent 
 the vanquished Amazons are full of expression. 
 
 HALL OF THE GLADIATOR. 
 
 The celebrated statue of a man mortally wounded, 
 called the dying gladiator, is the chief ornament of this 
 room; his costume however would indicate that he is a 
 Gaul , and the statue probably formed part of a group 
 representing the Gallic incursion into Greece. 
 
 The other fine statues are Zeno,a Greek philosopher, 
 the Faun of Praxiteles found at the Villa Adriana, An- 
 tinous admirably designed and executed, a Flora with 
 beautiful drapery. The bust of Brutus j the Juno of a 
 grand style, a head of Alexander the great, an Ariadne 
 
 3
 
 26 Guide of Rome 
 
 crowned with fvy : the statue of a female whose features 
 express grief, bearing a covered vase with offerings, 
 supposed by some to be Isis , or a Pandora , but more 
 probably Elecl-ra carrying funeral offerings to the tomb 
 of her father. A statue of Apollo , holding the lyre , with 
 a griffin at his feet , found near the sulphureous waters on 
 the road to Tivoli. 
 
 CABINET. 
 
 Some objects of interest in the history of the arts are 
 here united , but are not exposed to public view. The Venus 
 of the Capitol, is admirably executed; the group of Cupid 
 and P.>yche was found on the Aventine. 
 
 S. 3IARI1 d'aRACOELI. 
 
 This church was built in the XI century , on the site 
 of the temple of Jupiter. Till the year 1252 it was a Be- 
 nedictine abbey. It was given to the Franciscan friars by 
 Innocent IV. 
 
 It is divided into three naves by 22 columns of egy- 
 ptian granite of different dimensions; on the third near the 
 principal entrance is the inscription cvbicvlo avgvstorvm; 
 these columns probaWy belonged to the imperial palace. 
 The cieling was gilded under Pius V. 
 
 In the first chapel on the right dedicated to S. Ber- 
 nardino di Siena , are some frescoes ranked amongst the 
 best works of Pinturicchio. In the chapel of S. Matthew 
 this apostle and the principal incidents of his life were 
 painted by Muziano. In that of S. Francis is a painting by 
 Trevisani, and over the high altar a very ancient image 
 of the Virgin; some paintings by Niccola di Pesaro deco- 
 rate the chapels of S. Paul , of the Madonna , and of 
 S. Anthony.
 
 Second day. 2 7 
 
 In the choir is a fine painting of the school of Ra- 
 phael , which represents the Blessed Virgin with S. John 
 Baptist and S. Elisabeth, and is supposed to be by Giulio 
 Romano. 
 
 PALACE OF THE CONSERVATORI. 
 
 Under the portico on the right is a statue of Julius 
 Caesar considered to he the only authenticated portrait 
 known of that celebrated man ; on the left is that of Au- 
 gustus with a prow at his feet allusive to the victory of 
 Actium. Around the court are several antique fragments ; 
 on the left a colossal head of Domilian, the sepulchral urn 
 ofAgrippina wife of Germanicus, the fragments of two 
 porphyry columns, a bronze head and arm said to have 
 belonged to the colossal statue of Commodus. Two statues 
 ofDaciau kings with Rome triumphant in the centre ; a 
 group of a lion attacking a horse found in the stream 
 Almo, and a large pedestal which once supported a stalue 
 of Adrian. 
 
 HALL OF THE BUSTS. 
 
 Pius YII transferred to this place the busts , pre- 
 viously in the Pantheon, of men illustrious in the sciences, 
 letters and arts. 
 
 The principal regulations of this establishment are , 
 that it is destined to perpetuate the memory of celebrated 
 Italians j and that the busts of those only who have been 
 acknowledged to have possessed a genius of the highest 
 order can be admitted. 
 
 In the first room are the portraits of celebrated fo- 
 reigners who resided in Italy, Poussin , JMengs', Winkel- 
 man, Angelica KauCfman and Suee director of the French 
 academy at Rome.
 
 28 Guide of Rome 
 
 In the second the portraits of celebrated ilallan aiilsts 
 of llie XIII, XIV and XV centuries executed at the expense 
 ofCanova: the florenline Brunelleschi, Nicolo Pisano the 
 sculptor and archilectj Giotto, Orcagna, both distinguished 
 in painting , sculpture and architecture ; the florentinc 
 painters Masaccio, Giovanni di Fiesole, Ghiberti and the 
 sculptor Donatello. 
 
 The third room contains the portraits of Pins VII 
 and of Raphael , the former by Canova , who at his own 
 expense raised busts executed by sundry artists of his 
 day to the following celebrated men of the XVI century: 
 Titian , Leonardo da Vinci, Michael Angelo Buonarolli , 
 Palladio , fi a Bartolomeo di S. Alarco , Mantegna , Slgno- 
 relli , Pietro Perugino , Andrea del Sarto , Marc Antonio 
 Raimondi , the bolognese engraver, Coreggio, Paul Vero- 
 nese, and the architects Bramante and Sanmicheli. 
 
 The fourth room contains the busts of artists who 
 flourished in the XVI , XVII and XVIII centuries : An- 
 nibale Caracci by Naldini j Canova presented also the Fran- 
 cesco Marchi a military architect of Bologna, the Giulio 
 Romano , Polydoro di Cai'avaggio , the Sebastian del 
 Piombo J Ghirlandaio, Nanni di Udine, and Domenichino. 
 
 In the fifth room we find the busts of the engraver 
 Pickler ; of the engineer Rapini , of Pietro di Cortona, and 
 of Piranesi di Majano a celebrated engraver and architect. 
 
 The sixth contains the busts of literary characters." 
 Trissino , Metastasio , Annibal Caro , Bodoni , Venuti , 
 Aldus Manuccius , Morgagni , Verri , Bartoli and Bec- 
 caria , presented by their friends or relatives. 
 
 At the expense and under the direction of Canova the 
 following have also been placed here : Dante and Torquato 
 Tasso , the work of d' Este ; Alfieri , Petrarca and Ariosto, 
 by Finelli ; Goldoni , Christopher Columbus , Galileo , 
 Muratori and Morgagni , by Tadolini j Tiraboschi , the 
 author of the literary history of Italy.
 
 Second day. 29 
 
 The seventh room is occupied by the sepulchral irio- 
 nument of Canovii decreed by Leo the Xll, aud executed 
 by Fabris. 
 
 The last room is dedicated to the professors of music 
 who acquired celebrity in their day. Cimarosa, whose 
 bust executed by Canova, was presented by cardinal Con- 
 salvi i Sacchini , Corclli , aud Pacslello of Taranto. 
 
 STAIR CASE. 
 
 Below the first flight of steps , on the left , is an in- 
 scription in honour of Caius Duilius who gained the first 
 naval victory over the Carthaginians in the year of 
 Rome 492; this fragment of the time of the emperors was 
 found near the arch of Severus. 
 
 On the walls , forming a species of terrace , are four 
 bas reliefs : the first of Marcus Aurel'us offering a sacri- 
 fice at the temple of Jupiter ; the second a triumph of 
 the same emperor , who in the third is represented on 
 horseback , and in the fourth receiving a globe , the 
 symbol of imperial power. The bas relief on the wall on 
 the left represents the sabine Curtius passing the marsh 
 during the combat between Romulus and Tatius. 
 
 HALLS OF THE CONSERVATORI. 
 
 The cavalier d'Arpino painted in the first saloon 
 several facts of early Roman history : Romulus and Remus 
 found at the foot of the Palatine j Romulus tracing the 
 circuit of the new city ; the rape of the Sabine women , 
 Numa offering a sacrifice, the battles between the Ro- 
 mans and Vcians, the Horatii and Curiafii. 
 
 Other subjects of Roman history, painted by Laureti, 
 decorate the first antechamber ; Mutius Scsevola burning 
 his hand in presence of Porsenna ; Brutus condemning his 
 
 3*
 
 30 Guide of Roim 
 
 iwo sons; Horatius Codes on the Sublician bridge; the 
 battle of the lake Regilhis. 
 
 There are also statues in this room of Marc Antonio 
 Colonna who gained the battle of Lepanto , of Tommaso 
 Rospigliosi , Francesco Aldobrandini, Alexander Farnese 
 who commanded in Flanders , and of Carlo Barberini, the 
 brother of Urban VII. 
 
 In the second antechamber is a friese by Daniel di 
 Volterra representing the triumph of Marios after the 
 defeat of the Cimbri ; and in the centre the wolf with 
 Romulus and Remus ; this is not the original wolf of tlie 
 Capitol struck by lightning, previously to the conspiracy 
 of Catiline , as Cicero relates , but the one mentioned by 
 Pliny and Dionysius of Halicarnassus dedicated in the year 
 of Rome 458 and found near the site of the Ruininal 
 fig-tree at the base of the Palatine in the XV century. 
 
 A fine statue of a shepherd boy taking a thorn from 
 his foot ; busts of Junius Brutus , the first Roman consul , 
 of Proserpine , Diana , Julius Csesar , and Adrian. 
 
 In the third antechamber we observe several marble 
 fragments on which are engraved the celebrated consular 
 « fasti » down to Augustus , and over the entrance door a 
 fine bas-relief head of Mithridates , king of Pontus. 
 
 In the audience room are a friese representing dif- 
 ferent Olympic games ; busts of Scrpio Africanus , Philip 
 of Maccdon , Appius Claudius in rosso antico , a striking 
 likeness in bronze of Michael Angelo done by himself, a 
 head of RIedusa by Bernini, and a picture of the holy 
 family by Giulio Romano. 
 
 In the following room Annibal Caracci painted live 
 exploits of Scipio Africanus; the tapestry on the walls 
 with subjects taken from Roman history , was made at 
 S. Michele, in Rome. In the four corners are the busts of 
 Sappho, Ariadne, Poppea and Socrates.
 
 Second day. 3 1 
 
 The last room is remarkable as possessing sundry 
 frescoes of Pielro Perugino relative to the wars between 
 the Romans and Carthaginiansj in the chapel are a Madonua 
 of Pinluricchio and the Evangelists of Caravaggio. 
 
 GALLERY OF PAIN TINGS. 
 
 The description commences on the left of the en- 
 trance. The first picture is the portrait of a female byGior- 
 gionc; a Madonna and saints of the Venetian school being 
 a copy of Paul Veronese. The apparition of augels to the 
 shepherds by Bassano ; the sacrifice of Iphigenia by Pietro 
 di Cortona; a portrait bv Bronzinoj a S. Lucia, one of the 
 best works of the author ; a Madonna in gloryj the espou- 
 sals of S. Catherine, and a holy Family with S. Jerome 
 all four by Benvenuto Garofalo. Vanity by Titian ; a S. Je- 
 rome and a portrait of himself, by Guido ; a portrait by 
 Velasquez , admirably coloured ; the coronation of S. Ca- 
 therine by Garofalo , two adoration of the Magi by Scar- 
 sellino J a landscape with the martyrdom of S. Sebastian 
 by Domenlchinoj an Orpheus playing on the lyre by 
 Poussin, and a man caressing a dog by Palma Vecchio, are 
 the principal paintings on this side of the room. 
 
 Opposite and particularly worthy of notice is the de- 
 parture of Agar and Ismael , a fine work of Mola's; a cha- 
 rity by Annibal Caracci who also painted the S. Cecilia 
 and a Madonna with S. Francis, the celebrated sybilla 
 persica of Guercino, the Madonna by Albano a fine com- 
 position , a Magdalen by Tintoretto : a sketch by Agostino 
 Caracci of the celebrated communion of S. Jerome at 
 Bologna, a holy Family by Schidoni, and the espousals in 
 the ancient Ferrarese style. 
 
 On the third wall are a Christ disputing with the 
 doctors , a fine composition by Valentin ; the Cumcan 
 sybil of Domenichino , Herminia and the shepherd of
 
 32 Guide of Rome 
 
 Lanfranc J tlic separation of Jacob and Esau by del Garbo, 
 a Magdalen of Guido , Flora on a triumphal car by 
 Poussin : a view of Grottaferrata by Vanvitelli, a S. John 
 Baptist by Guercino , Cupid and Psycbe, by Luti: a land- 
 scape and Magdalen by Caracci , the Magdalen of Albano: 
 the triumph of Bacchus by Pietro di Cortona, a S. Cecilia 
 of Romanelli. 
 
 On the fourth wall we observe a portrait by Dossi 
 of Ferrara: another by Domenichino, a chiaro-scuro of 
 Polydore Caravaggio, a sketch of a soul in bliss by Guido, 
 B. Virgin and S. Anne with angels by Paul Veronese: a 
 Romulus and Remus nourished by the wolf by Piubens, 
 a portrait by Giorgone, Rachel, Lea and Laban by Ferri, 
 Circe presenting the beverage to Ulysses by Sirani, a por- 
 trait by Giorgione, the dispute of S. Catherine by Vasari, a 
 Madonna by Francia, a portrait by Bronzino, a chiaro-scuro 
 representing Meleager by Polydore Caravaggio, and the 
 coronation of the Madonna with S. John , by an author 
 not known. 
 
 SECOND ROOM. 
 
 On the wall to the left of the entrance ane the de- 
 scent of the holy ghost and the ascension by Paul Vero- 
 nese, an adoration and the Madonna in glory by Garo- 
 falo, two landscapes by Claude, a flemish piece by Breu- 
 ghel , sundry views of Rome by Vanvitelli , a Cupid of 
 Tintoretto , two sketches and an Europa by Guido : a 
 battle by Borgognone , and a splendid representation of 
 our Saviour and the adulterous woman by Titian. 
 
 These arc followed by a defeat of Darius at Arbellre, 
 by Pietro di Cortona , a portrait by Titian , the Poly- 
 phemus of Guido , a Judith by Giulio Romano , a holy 
 Family of Andrea Sacchi , the journey into Egypt by Scar- 
 sellino, a S. John Baptist by Parmigiano , a S. Francis of 
 Annibal Caracci, a Claude, a fine Garofalo, representing
 
 Second day. 33 
 
 the Madonna, cliild and S. John, and ihe judgment of 
 Solomon by Bassano. On the second wall is ihe celebrated 
 S. Petronilla of Gucrcmo a copy of which in mosaic is in 
 S. Peter's; on the left of this classic picture is an allegory, 
 on the right a Magdalen of the school of Guercino. 
 
 On the third wall are the baptism of our Saviour by 
 Titian; a S. Francis, a holy Family, and a fine S. Seba- 
 stian by Ludovico Caracci , a gipsy and a young man by 
 Caravaggio , a Madonna and child by Perugino, a S. Mat- 
 thew of Guercino, a S. Bernard by Bellini , and a soldier 
 reposing by Salvator Rosa. 
 
 The principal pictures that follow an; a flagellation 
 by Tintoretto, an old man by Bassano, a Cleopatra in the 
 the presence of Augustus, and a S. John Baptist by Guer- 
 cino , the baptism of Christ by Tintoretto , Jesus driving 
 the money changers out of the temple, a fine S. Sebastian 
 of Guido, the conversion of S. Paul , atid Christ fulmi- 
 aating vice by Scarsellino , a fine painting of S. Barbara 
 by some attributed to Annibal Caracci , by others to 
 Domenichino 5 a S. Sebastian by Garofalo, a holy Family 
 by Parmigiano, the queen of Saba by AUegrini, aS. Chri- 
 stopher with our Saviour by Tintoretto, a S. Cecilia of 
 Ludovico Caracci, and a sketch of Cleopatra by Guido. 
 
 On the fourth wall are two philosophers by «il Ca- 
 Fabrese», a Bersabea of Palma, the Grace by Palma the 
 younger , Nathan and Saul by Mola , Jesus at the house 
 of the Pharisee by Bassano, a Magdalen in prayer and the 
 rape of Europa both by Paul Veronese. 
 
 Behind this edifice was the acropolis or forfress of 
 Rome , and the Tarpeian rock a part of which is visible 
 from the «plazza della Consolazione*. It still preserves a 
 certain height, but it should be borne in mind that tlie 
 soil is raised about 40 feet above its ancient level , ami 
 that the falls of earth from the top have also tended tO' 
 diminish its primitive height. Those who were declartrdi
 
 34 Guide of Rome 
 
 guilty of treason to their country were hurled headlong 
 IVom this rock ; such was the fate of Manlius. 
 
 Fioin the Capitol two streets lead to the fornm: that 
 to the left passes by the substructions of the tabularium. 
 Under the church dedicated to S. Joseph is 
 
 THE MAMMERTINE PRISON. 
 
 Built under Ancus Martius , and described by Varro: 
 the chamber still existing is covered with rectangular 
 slabs of volcanic stone called reddish tuffo : its form is 
 that of a trapezium 24 feet long . 18 v/ide , and 13 high. 
 Towards the north-west are tracer of a window which 
 slied here its feeble light. No trace of an anci«nt door 
 being visible it is conjectured thai criminals were lowered 
 into the prison through the aperture covered with an 
 iron grating. The eastern front is well preserved, and on 
 blocks of travertine are the names of the consuls Rufiuus 
 and Nerva who restored it. From the steps leading to the 
 prison named fScalse Gemonire* the bodies of those put 
 to death in the prison were dragged through the forum 
 and thrown into the Tiber from the Sublician bridge. 
 
 These executions took place in the inferior or Tulliau 
 prison thus named firom Servius TuUius. It was cut in the 
 rock about twelve feet under the level of ancient Rome. 
 We learn from history that many celebrated personages 
 of antiquity died in this prison. Jugurlha of starvation j 
 Lentulus , Cethegus , Statilius , Gabinlus , and other ac- 
 complices of Catllina, by strangulation: Sejauus by order 
 of Tiberius , and Simon , son of Joras , chief of the Jews 
 by that of Titus. It is supposed that after having adorned 
 the triumphal pomp the captive chiefs were confined in 
 the Tullian prison till sent to the places assigned as their 
 residence. Syphax finished his days atTivolij Perseus king 
 of Macedon at Alba Fuoensis.
 
 TEMIPLIE OF HUIPITIER TOil^^A."^' S
 
 \
 
 TEMPl-E OT ITTPITEIt STATOX
 
 Second day. 35 
 
 The celebrity of this prison is encreased by the pious 
 traditioti that the apostles SS. Peter and Paul were con- 
 fined in it under Nero , and a spring of water , said to 
 have been used at the baptism of Processus and Martinian, 
 the keepers of the prison , who afterwards suffered mar- 
 tyrdom , is still visible. Over the prison is the 
 
 CHURCH OF S. GIUSEPPE. 
 
 Built In 1598. The picture over the high altar re- 
 presenting the marriage of the Madonna is by Benedetto 
 Bramante j the birlh of Christ on the left altar is by 
 Carlo Maratla : the death of S. Joseph i>y Piomanelli. The 
 three isolated columns near this church belong to the 
 
 TEMPLE OF JUPITEPv TONANS. 
 
 Raised by Augustus on his return from the war in 
 Spain where one of his slaves who carried a light during 
 a journey by night was struck dead by lightning. This 
 temple having suffered , probably during the fire which 
 consumed the Athenseum and other buildings in this di- 
 rection , was restored by the emperors Severus and Ca- 
 racalla. In compai ing those parts of the cornice deposited 
 in the portico of the tabularium with those of the temple 
 of Concord , two periods of roman architecture are easily 
 distinguished: that of Augustus and that of Severus, of 
 the perfection and of the decline of the art. Of this mo- 
 nument there remain only three fluted corinthian columns, 
 4 feet 2 inches in diameter. The entablature is remarkable 
 for the different instruments used in ihe sacrifices , scul- 
 ptured in bas relief on the friese. 
 
 The ancient pavement of polygonal basaltic block:* 
 at the base of this temple formed a part of the clivus Ca- 
 pitoliinis , one of the roads that led to the Capitol.
 
 35 Guide of Rome 
 
 TEMPLE OF FORTUNE. 
 
 It was hitherto generally supposed that the eight co- 
 lumns , near the temple of Jupiter Tonans , were remains 
 of the celebrated temple of Concord in which the senate 
 occasionally assembled , but although situated between 
 the Capitol and Forum , the front of the temple of Concord 
 was turned to the Forum according to Plutarch, andDio 
 asserts that it was in the immediate vicinity of the Mam- 
 mertine prison. These columns formed part of the temple 
 of Fortune built under Maxentius , and rebuilt by the 
 senate. They are all of different diameters , of the jonic 
 order, and of egyptian granite; some are 12 feet in cir- 
 cumference , and 40 in height comprizing the basis and 
 capital. The friese is ornamented internally with foliage 
 and arabesques belonging in part to the primitive temple 
 and of the fine period of Roman architecture , but tlie 
 others are evidently of the IV century. 
 
 Several chambers of a brick construction as used 
 under Adrian have been recently discovered near this 
 temple, the columns and capitals being profusely adorned 
 with trophies and victories appear to be of the time of 
 Septimius Severus. An inscription on an entablature of 
 the portico indicates that in these chambers were the 
 statues of the twelve divinities called Consenles whose 
 names have been preserved by Ennius in the following 
 cadcr: Juno, Yesta, Minerva, Ceres, Diana, Venus, Mars, 
 Mercujy, Jupiter, Neptune, Vulcan, Apollo: and that 
 these statues were restored by Pretcxtat, prefect of Rome 
 in tlie year 368 of the christian era. 
 
 On the right of the temple of Jupiter Tonans are the 
 remains of the
 
 %
 
 Second day. 37 
 
 TEMPLE OF CONCORD. 
 
 This edifice , so intercsling in Roman liistory and in 
 the topograpliv of the ancient city, was discovered under 
 a mass of marble fragments of excellent workmanship. 
 Three votive inscriptions, one highly preserved, have 
 determined its position and agree with the testimony of 
 ancient writers. 
 
 Some vestiges of the cells with fragments of giallo 
 antico , africano , and violet marble are now the only 
 remains. It appears by these fragments that the interior 
 columns, the base of which was highly finished and of 
 the style of those found at the thermae of Titus , were of 
 giallo antico and violet marble. An inscription preserves 
 the name of M. Antonius Geminus, prefect of the military 
 treasure, who dedicated the temple, which seems to have 
 been destroyed by fire before the YlII century. 
 
 ROMAN FORUM. 
 
 The celebrity of this spot, the most classic of ancient 
 Rome, has induced antiquarians to trace its limits and 
 assign to each edifice its peculiar locality. The system of 
 Nardini, founded on the authority of the classics, has 
 been In a great measure verified by the discoveries made 
 till the present day. 
 
 The Romans having under Romulus and Tatius oc- 
 cupied the Palatine, and the Sabincs the Capitoline, hill, 
 they had no other means of communication than by the 
 kind of isthmus which, commencing at the Tarpeian rock 
 joined the Palatine towards its northern angle. According 
 toDIonisiusof Halicarnassus this valley was then covered 
 with woods and marshes , and had a slope towards the 
 east and west which was most sensible from the spot now 
 
 4
 
 3'8 Guhle of Roim 
 
 occupied by llie granary near the column of Piiocas lo the 
 arch of Severus and the forum of Nerva.The springs which 
 from the declivities of the Quirinal , Viminal and Esqui- 
 line fell into the valley on one side and from the Aventine 
 Capitoline and Palatine into that on the other side, formed 
 marshes which , in the latter case being united with tlie 
 overflowings of the river became a lake, called the Ve- 
 labrum. By a passage in Yarro it is ascertained that in his 
 time , prior to the dictatorship of Coesar, the extent of 
 the forum was of seven jugera , and each of these jugcra 
 containing a surface of 240 roman feet long and 220 wide 
 the sides presented a superficies of 201,600 square feet, 
 or an extension of 550 feet long and 5G6 wide , the city 
 itself being then only one mile in circuit. It was enlarged 
 towards the east successively under Cecsar and Augustus. 
 By the excavations made of late it appears that the 
 Forum existed till the XI century and was totally des- 
 troyed in 1080 , when Robert Guiscard set fire to this part 
 of the city. It was afterwards used as a place for depositing 
 rubbish which in the course of time accumulated to the 
 height of 24 feet. It afterwards became a market for oxen 
 and heuce is derived its appellation of Campo T^accino. 
 
 EDIFICES OF THE FORUM. 
 
 Tiie forum of Rome like all those of the Italian cities, 
 was, according to Yiliuvius, of an oblong form: in order 
 to render it regular a portico of two stories was erected 
 with chambers above and shops (tabernre) on the ground 
 floor. Around il many buildings for diOferent uses Were 
 raised which on the authority of ancient writers , and 
 fragments of the ancient plan of Rome preserved in the 
 Capitol , were disposed in the following order. 
 
 In the centre of the southern side were the curia 
 or senate house j on the right of this building the comi-
 
 Second day. 39 
 
 tlum or place desllncd for the popular asseinblies or public 
 pleadii)gsj the graicostalis , or hall for the reception of 
 foreign ambassadors: and the Fabian arch , raised by Fa- 
 biiis conqueror of the Allobrogi. On the left were the 
 temple of Castor and Pollux, the lake of Jiiturna , and 
 temple of Yesla. 
 
 Tlie western side was occupied by the temple of Ju- 
 lius Ctesar , the Julian basilick , and the area of Ops and 
 Saturn. On the north , under the Clapilol, were the temple 
 of Saturn, ihe arch of Tiberius, the temple of Vespasian, 
 and the Schola Xantha. 
 
 On the east were the two Emilian basilicks and shops. 
 In the centre of the area were the rostra or tribune 
 whence harangues were addressed to the people , thus 
 named from the beaks of the vessels taken by the Romans 
 from the Antiates; this tribune was opposite to the senate 
 house and surrounded with the statues of Fvomnn ambas- 
 sadors killed while executing their mission; it was placed 
 under Julius Ctcsar near the southern angle of tlie forum 
 and called «nova roslra», the ancient site preserving the 
 appellation of «vetera». Opposite to the temple of Ccesar 
 was a column of giallo antico erected in his honour. At the 
 foot of the temple of Saturn was a gilt column, inilliaruin 
 aureum, on which were engraved the distances from Rome 
 to the piincipal cities of the empire; near the arch of 
 Seplimius Severus was the rostral column raised to Gains 
 Duilius to commemorate his victory over the Carthagi- 
 nians. It is known by the testimony of ancient authors, 
 that several other monumenis existed in the forum, such 
 as the Jani , or public porches where commercial men 
 assembled; the column of Blevius , conqueror of the La- 
 tins ; the equestrian slalue of Domilian , but their situation 
 is uncertain. 
 
 To the north east of the Forum is
 
 40 Guide of Rome 
 
 THE ARCH OF SEPTIMIUS SETERUS. 
 
 Raised by the senate and Roman people in the year 
 205 of the christian era , to commemorate the victories 
 gained by Severus over the Parlbians and other eastern 
 nations. 
 
 The arch is decorated with eight fluted columns of 
 the composite order, and with has reliefs representing 
 engagements with the Arabians, Parlhians and Adiabe- 
 nians j on the western side is a stair case leading to the 
 platform on which was placed the statue of the em- 
 peror seated between his sons Caracalla and Geta in a 
 triumphal car drawn by six horses abreast. 
 
 On the left is the 
 
 CHURCH OF S. LUKE. 
 
 One of the most ancient in Rome. Alexander IV res- 
 stored and dedicated it to S. Martina, but Sixtus IV having 
 presented it in 1588 to the academy of painting, it was 
 rebuilt on the designs of Pietro di Corlona, and dedicated 
 to S. Luke. The painting over the right altar , represent- 
 ing the martyrdom of S. Lazarus, is by Baldi ; the Assum- 
 ption by Sebastian Conca ; S. Luke painting the B. Virgin 
 is a copy of Raphael by Grammatica. In the subterra- 
 nean church is a chapel built by Pietro di Cortona. 
 
 The academy of the fine arts , called S. Luca , esta- 
 blished by Sixtus V is composed of painters, sculptors 
 and architects and holds its sittings in the house adjoining 
 the church. It contains several portraits of celebrated 
 painters ; the S. Luke of Raphael in which is inserted his 
 own portrait , two landscapes by Gaspar Poussin , thre^ 
 pictures of Salvator Rosa , and a Christ with the Pharisee 
 by Titian.
 
 53
 
 Secand day. 4 1 
 
 S. ADRIAN. 
 
 The front of this church , built of brick , but for- 
 merly covered with stucco , dates from the V century of 
 the christian era. The door, covered with brouze , was 
 taken to S. John Latcran under Alexander VII. When the 
 interior of the church was rebuilt in 1649 a pedestal be- 
 longing probably to the Emilian basilic was found; the 
 inscription indicates that Probianus , prefect of the city 
 had raised a statue there. 
 
 COLUMN OF PHOCAS. 
 
 During the excavations made in 1815 it was disco- 
 vered by the inscription on the pedestal that this column, 
 with its gilt statue on the top , had been raised in G08 by 
 Smaragdus , the exarch , to the emperor Phocas , in com- 
 memoration of the tranquillity he maintained in Italy. 
 The other inscriptions subsequently found are those rela- 
 tive to the <iA.verruncl » gods, to Minerva Averrunca , 
 Marcus Cisplus, the prsetor, Lucius and Constantius Cccsar. 
 Three brick pedestals formerly covered with marble 
 supported large columns of red granite. 
 
 This column is fluted corinlhian , and belonged ori- 
 ginally to some edifice of the time of the Antonines. Its 
 diameter is 4 feet 2 inches; the pedestal 10 feet 11 in- 
 ches in height. It appears from this column that even in 
 the VII century the forum of Caesar was still one of the 
 most frequented spots in Rome. 
 
 GRyECOSTASIS. 
 
 It Is ascertained by passages from ancient authors and 
 
 the plan of Rome at the Capitol, that these fine remains 
 
 4X-
 
 42 Guide of Rome 
 
 of ancient architecture belonged to the Grsecostasis or 
 building assigned for the reception of foreign ambassadors^ 
 The front composed of eight columns faced the temple of 
 Antoninus and Faustina j on the sides were 13 columns 
 of pentelic marble fluted and of the Corinthian order. 
 They are 4 i/a feet in diameter , 45 in height comprising 
 the base and capital. The entablature they support is of 
 the most finished workmanship. The capitals equal la 
 beauty those of the Pantheon , and these ruins may be 
 considered as the best model of the proportions and of- 
 naments of the corinthiaa order. 
 
 CURIA. 
 
 Towards the Velabrum and opposite to the Capitol 
 was the Curia Hostilia, used for the sittings of the senate; 
 it was rebuilt by Augustus and called Curia Julia. The 
 remains of the hall now form part of a carpenter's house 
 near the church of S. Maria Libcralrice. The front which 
 was probably ornamented with a portico and marble co- 
 lumns has disappeared. 
 
 TEMPLE OF VESTA. 
 
 This little edifice was raised by Adrian I in the Till 
 century on the ruins of the temple of Vesta in which the 
 Vestal virgins preserved the Palladium and the sacred fire. 
 
 In the tribune is a mosaic of the Vlll cenlury j the 
 painting over the principal altar is by Zuccari. 
 
 On the declivity of the Palatine behind this temple 
 were the Lupercal , a grotto sacred to Pan , and the Ru- 
 minal fig-tree under which Romulus and Remus were 
 found by Faustulus.
 
 m
 
 Second day. 45 
 
 VIA SACRA. 
 
 This celebrated way received its name from the sa- 
 crifices which accompanied the peace between Romulus 
 and Talius. It commenced at the Colosseum , passed near 
 the temple of Venus nnd Rome, the basilic of Conslantine, 
 the temple of Romulus and Remus , of Antoninus and 
 Faustina , and entered the forum by the Fabian arch , 
 near which a part branched off towards the temple of 
 Vesta, ended at the Via Nuova which joined the circus 
 following the direction of the street leading at present 
 from the foium to the church of S. Anaslasia. The prin- 
 cipal branch of the via sacra passed through the forum 
 and finished at the Capitol ; but according to A arro , at 
 the citadel called arx sacrorum. 
 
 THE TE3IPLE OF A^^TONI^'US AND FAUSTINA. 
 
 Was built by the senate in honour of Faustina , the 
 name of her husband Antoninus was added alter his death. 
 In front of the cella is a portico of six columns with three 
 on each side of cipollino, the largest known of this kind 
 of marble, being 43 feet high including the base and ca- 
 pital. They support an entablature composed of enormous 
 blocks of while marble. On the friese are has reliefs of 
 griffins , chandeliers and vases of the best slyle of sculpture. 
 The walls of the cella built of peperino, or Albano stone, 
 were covered with white marble. In ancient times 21 
 marble steps led to the interior 5 at present there are 
 about 16 feet between the base of the portico columns 
 and the level of the via sacra.
 
 44 Guide of Rome 
 
 TEMPLE OF ROMULUS AND REMUS. 
 
 It is ascertained from the ecclesiastical writers that 
 the church of S. Coslmo and Damlano was built on the 
 ancient temple of Romulus and Remus. The cella , now 
 the vestibule of the church, is of a circular form, and on 
 the marble pavement was engraved the plan of Rome, 
 fragments of which are now in the Capitol. The copy of its 
 inscription preserved in a manuscript of the Yatican li- 
 brary proves that this temple was built under Constantine. 
 
 The upper part of the temple has been adapted as the 
 vestibule of the church of SS. Coslmo and Damlano, built 
 in 527 by pope Felix III ; a bronze door brought from 
 Perugia and two porphyry columns form the entrance ; 
 in the ancient church , now under ground is an altar 
 under which repose SS. Coslmo and Damlano. 
 
 The two cipollino columns measuring from the base 
 to the capital 31 feet were a part of the portico which 
 belonged to the temple of Remus. 
 
 The three large arches near these columns are re- 
 mains of the 
 
 BASILIC OF CONSTANTINE. 
 
 Anrelius Victor says, that in the year 311 of the 
 christian era Maxentius raised this edifice which, after 
 his defeat , was consecrated by the senate to Constantine. 
 
 The plan of this building is that of a basilic being 
 divided into three naves ; the style of the construction 
 and ornaments is identical with that of the thermae of 
 Diocletian and other edifices of the IV century j in a frag- 
 ment of the roof which fell In 1 828 , several medals were 
 found , one in silver of Waxenlius. From the XV till the 
 middle of the XVU centui y these ruins were supposed to 
 have been those of the temple of Peace.
 
 Second day. 45 
 
 The length of the building was 300 feet} the 
 •wicUh 200 and height 70. The middle nave was sup- 
 ported by eight fluted coiinlhian coliunns. The nave to tlie 
 north is well preserved ^ a cliatige is visible in the con- 
 struction the entrance having been origitially opposite the 
 Colosseum and the tribune at the head of the great nave; 
 nnothi;r opening was afterwards made facing the Pala- 
 tine wheu the tribune was transferred to the centre ot the 
 north nave. Remnants of the giailo antico pavement, of 
 capitals , porphry columns, and entablatures were disco- 
 vered during the recent excavations. 
 
 S. FRA-NCESCA ROMANA. 
 
 This church was built under Paul I, renewed under 
 Leo IV and Paul V when the present front was raised. 
 Before the high allar is \he tomb of S. Francesca, covered 
 with precious marble and gilt bronze; on the tomb of 
 Gregory XI, by Olivieri , is a has relief representing the 
 return of the Popes to Pvome after an absence of 72 years 
 at Avignon. 
 
 ARCH OF TITUS. / l. 
 
 This triumphal arch raised by the senate to Titus , 
 sou of Vespasian , after the conquest of Jerusalem , is of 
 pentelic marble , and had , on each side , four half co- 
 lumns of the composite order ; two only now remain at 
 each front: they support the entablature and attic. 
 
 The has reliefs under the arch represent Titus on a 
 car drawn by four horses abreast, driven by Rome under 
 the figure of a female, with Victory crowning the em- 
 peror who is preceded and followed by his soldiers. 
 
 The most iuleresling part of the triumphal pomp 
 consists of the prisoners, the golden table and sacred vases, 
 the seven branched golden candlestick and other spoils of
 
 46 Guide of Roim 
 
 the temple of Jerusalem. In the centre is the figure of 
 Titus borne by an eagle in allusion to his apotheosis. On 
 the two front angles are four Victories of a good style of 
 sculpture, and on the friese of the entablature is a repre- 
 sentation of the river Jordan indicating the conquest of 
 Judaea , men leading oxen to be sacrificed and soldiers 
 with round shields. 
 
 This arch though small and of a single arcade is 
 the finest monument of the kind left us by antiquity. 
 
 TEMPLE OF VENUS AND ROME. 
 
 The emperor Adrian himself made the designs of this 
 temple and superintended its construction. Dio designates 
 the primitive site as the atrium of the golden house of 
 Nero, at the summit of the via sacra near the amphitheatre. 
 Having sulfered from fire it was restored by Maxentius. 
 
 This temple was raised in the centre of an oblong 
 enclosure formed by a portico 500 feet long 300 wide 
 with a double row of granite columns each 5 ijz feet in 
 diameter. It was divided into two parts, with two distinct 
 and separate cellco, though they formed but one temple, 
 consisting of two rows of columns at each front , and a 
 single row at each side. lis length was 555 feet and 
 width 160 j ten columns at each front, 20 at each side, 
 all of Proconesus marble (while with grey veins nearly 
 six feet in diameter , of the corinlhian order and fluted 
 as is proved by the fragments that remain. The external 
 walls of the cella were covered with the same quality of 
 marble , 5 1J2 feet in thickness, 
 
 The temple had two entrances, one towards the Fo- 
 rum by the steps near the arch of Titus , the other to- 
 wards the Colosseum by a double stair case the remains 
 of which are still visible from'the court ; seven steps led 
 to the vestibule and five others to the cella. The Interior
 
 Second day, Al 
 
 of the Iwo celL-ic was decorated with porphyry columns 
 2 feet 2 inclies in diaincler ; (lie roof was gill and llie in- 
 side walls and paveiueul were covered wilh giallo anlico 
 and serpentine. 
 
 PALATINE HILL. 
 
 The traditions admitted hy ancient writers respecting 
 I'nc name of this celebrated hill are that Evander founded 
 on it a city called Pallantlum from his native town in Ar- 
 cadia , a name changed into Palatium from which is de- 
 rived Palatimis. 
 
 Tliis hill is surrounded by the other hills of Rome; 
 by the Aventine to the west, the Cselian to the south, the 
 Esqulline to the east , the Yiminal , Quirinal and Capito- 
 line to the north and north west. Its form is that of a tra- 
 peiium 6400 feet in circumference; it is 156 feet above 
 the level of the sea and was the cradle of Rome. Romulus 
 had his cottage on the part turned towards the Circus Max- 
 imus; Numa near the temple of Vesta; Tullius Hostilius 
 built his house on the summit overlooking tlie forum , 
 Ancus Marlius on the spot where the temple of Venus 
 and Rome was afterwards erected , and Tarquiuius Pris- 
 cus on the slope overlooking the Velabrum. 
 
 In latter times it was the residence of the Gracchi , 
 of Crassus , Hortensius , Cicero , Clodius , Mark Antony , 
 Claudius Nero, father of Tiberius, and of Octavius father 
 of Augustus. To this last is due the commencement of the 
 
 PALACE OF THE C^SARS. 
 
 His paternal mansion having been destroyed by fire 
 Augustus built a house on the middle of the hill towards 
 the Aventine, adding to it a temple of Apollo, a portico 
 and a library. It was enlarged by Tiberius in the direc-
 
 48 Guide of Rome 
 
 lion of the Velabrum and by CRligula, wlio raised a 
 front with porticoes in the forum , and a bridge sup- 
 ported by marble columns in order to unite it with the 
 Capitoliue hill. 
 
 The whole Palatine was not extensive enough for the 
 improvements made by Nero which occupied the space 
 between this hill , the Esquiline , and the gardens of 
 Mecsenas under the «agger». This immense palace con- 
 tained extensive gardens , woods , ponds , baths and se- 
 veral olhcr buildings. Having been destroyed by fire in 
 the 64lh year of our era Nero repaired it with such magni- 
 ficence that it was called the « domus aurea », or golden 
 house. It would be difficult to form an idea of its magni- 
 ficence. According to ancient writers it was surrounded 
 with porticoes having not lefs than three thousand co- 
 lumns , and before the vestibule was his colossus in bronze 
 120 feet high , the work of the celebrated Zenodorus. 
 most of the rooms and halls were adorned with statues 
 columns and precious marbles. 
 
 The palace not being finished at the death of Nero, a 
 considerable sum was assigned by Olho for its completion, 
 but owing to the shortness of his reign his orders were 
 not executed. Vespasian and Titus demolished, or destined 
 to other uses , the part ou the Esquiline; lluy built the 
 Colosseum and thermae j their successors embellished or 
 partially changed the palace on the Palatine. After the 
 translation of the empire it was abandoned , suffered 
 much under Alaric in 410 and Genseric in 455 5 when the 
 bronze vases , and the sacred utensils of the temple of 
 Jerusalem were taken away. It was however continually 
 restored , served as the residence of the emperor He- 
 raclius iu the VII century and existed even in the Vlll. 
 At the present day it presents nothing but ruins more or 
 less imposing by their masses. The evergreen oak, laurels, 
 cypresses and olhcr trees add to the picturesque beauty
 
 Second day. 49 
 
 of these rultis particularly towards the Forum and the 
 Circus Maximus. 
 
 ORTl FARNESINI. 
 
 These gardens, formed by Paul III of the Farnese 
 family, formerly contained s4atues has reliefs and a va- 
 riety of species of marbles which Lave been sent to Naples. 
 The most considei'able ruins are those of the substructions 
 which supported the external porticoes of the palace , and 
 in the direction of the circus traces exist of the theatre of 
 Caligula. Two chambers known by the appellation of 
 baths of Livia are covered with paintings , and near these 
 are the ruins of the Palatine library and the site of the 
 temple of Apollo. 
 
 VILLA PALATINA. /^ /^ 
 
 The villa Spada , now villa Mills, is built on the 
 ruins of the house of Augustus. On the ground floor under 
 a portico formed by four granite columns are frescoes of 
 Raphael representing Venus and the Nymphs; they were 
 engraved by Mark Antonio, and on the roof Hercules with 
 other gods and the Rluses. Under ground are three 
 chambers well preserved which formed part of the 
 house of Augustus. 
 
 In the garden contiguous to the villa are remains of 
 an oblong court , used as an arena for wrestling , and in 
 the centre on the eastern side is a tribune with niches 
 for statues where the games took place in rainy weather. 
 From the roofs of the ancient palace is an extensive view 
 of Rome and of the campagna.
 
 50 Guide of Rome 
 
 META SUDANS. 
 
 We learn from Cassiodorus that this « meta » was 
 constructed under Domilian , and from medals of the 
 Colosseum that it had the form of the boundaries of the 
 circus called «melse». It derived the appellation of «meta 
 sudans», from the water that issued from it. It was found 
 by recent excavations that the ancient bason was 80 feet 
 in diameter. 
 
 The limits of the ancient quarters of Rome II5 lllj IV 
 and X united at this spot. 
 
 COLOSSUS OF l!fERO. 
 
 When Nero built his golden house he ordered Zeno- 
 dorus , a celebrated sculptor to execute a colossal statue 
 in bronze of 120 feet in height representing his own por- 
 trait under the form of Apollo or of the sun and placed 
 it in the vestibule. Vespasian transferred it to the atrium 
 of the palace which was situated on the spot were Adrian 
 erected the temple of Venus and Rome; twenty four ele- 
 phants were employed in removing it to its pedestal the 
 remains of which are still visible near the <imeta sudans». 
 Commodus substituted his own likeness to that of Nero but 
 after his death that of the sun was replaced. This statue 
 existed till the beginning of the V century when it was 
 destroyed in order to convert the bronze to other purposes. 
 
 COLOSSEUM. 
 
 The emperor Flavius Vespasianus built this amphi- 
 theatre on his r^urn from the war in Juda3a, on the spot 
 occupied by ponds in the gardens of Nero and nearly in
 
 Second divi, 5 1 
 
 the centre of ancient Pvome. It was dcdicalcd by Titus, 
 and finished by Doniitiati. 
 
 The games celeljialed at its dedication lasted 100 
 days during which five thousand wild beasts and several 
 thousand gladiators were killed. INautical games also were 
 given here. These various games were continued till the 
 year 525 ; fiom the M to the XIY centuiy it served as a 
 fortress to the Frangipani and Annibaldi , noble Pioman fa- 
 milies, to which period may be allribuled its luin. In 1581 
 it w;is tiaiislorined into an hospital and afterwards fur- 
 nished materials for building the Cancellaria, the Farnese, 
 the Barberini , the Venetian and other palaces. 
 
 The amphitheatre had a triple row of arcades one 
 raised over the other , intermixed with half columns 
 which supported their entablature. Each row consisted 
 of 80 arches with the same number of half columns. The 
 edifice was terminated by a fourth order or atlic , with pi- 
 lasters and windows. The first order of architecture is do- 
 ric, the second jonic , the third and fourth are Corinthian. 
 
 The first row of arcades is marked with romari fi- 
 gures as they formed so many entrances which, by means 
 of stair cases , led to the upper porticoes , so that each 
 person might easily find his place , and retire without 
 confusion , at the close of the games. Between the arcades 
 numbered XXXVlll and XX7<1X is one of the principal 
 entrances, corresponding with the middle of ihe lenglli 
 which communicated with a room ornamented with 
 stuccoes J through this the emperor arrived at the podium. 
 The form of this amphitheatre is oval ; Its height 157 feel , 
 its circumference outside 1641 j but to judge of its size it 
 is necessary to ascend the first or second story of ihe 
 porticoes. 
 
 In 1811 and 1812 the walls which closed the arches of 
 the first row were pulled down and the half columns and 
 pillars which were half buried under ground, were thus
 
 52 Guide of Rome, 
 
 uncovered. ITn(3er the present level were found parallel 
 walls , some elliptic , some rectilinear , destined to support 
 tlie arena. Some of these constructions were evidently of 
 the V century, and it appears from inscriptions that this 
 edifice having suffered from earthquakes was restored 
 by Lampadius and Basilius , prefect of Rome in 457 
 and 485; the arena, the podium, and steps were repaired 
 by the former , the arena and podium by Basilius. 
 
 The arena , so called from the sand that covered 
 the ground had one principal entrance to the east , the 
 other to the west , and formed an ellipsis of 285 feet 
 long , 182 wide , and 748 in circumference. It was sur- 
 rounded by a wall to prevent the beasts from rushing on 
 the spectators 5 by doors and passages closed with bars 
 of bronze; through these passed the gladiators and ani- 
 mals. On the platform called podium were places destined 
 for the emperor and his family and Vestal virgins. Over 
 tJie podium began the seats for the spectators , communi- 
 cating with several doors , called vomitoria ; these seals 
 were divided into three rows , named prfficinctiones and 
 mceniana ; the first , from the arena , had 24 steps ; the 
 second 16; the third 10 besides the gallery formed of 80 
 columns which supported the ceiling; the mceniana were 
 subdivided by little stair cases made in the seals and se- 
 parated thein j the subdivisions were name cunei. On the 
 seats there was room suflicient for 87,000 persons and on 
 the terrace for 20,000. On the outside walls In the cornice 
 of the building were beams covered with bronze to which 
 was attached the velarium or awning that sheltered the 
 spectators from the rays of the sun. 
 
 The holes seen iu this and in other monuments were 
 originally filled with Iron bars that served to Join the 
 blocks of stone; they were carried away in the middle ages. 
 
 In consequence of the tradition that many christians 
 suffered martyrdom in this arena , where they were
 
 Second day. 53 
 
 condemned to bo devoured by wild beasts , fourteen 
 chapels with the inystevics of the pnssion of our Saviour 
 were erected in the arena , in the middle of the last cen- 
 tury , whore the ceremony of the J^ia Criicis takes place 
 on festivals and on fridays two hours bcfure sun-set. 
 
 ARCH OF CONSTANTINE. 
 
 This arch, erected by the senate and people to Con- 
 stantine, to commemorate his victories over Maxentius 
 and Licinius , is composed of three arcades , eight Corin- 
 thian columns, seven in giallo antico, one of white marble 
 and several bas reliefs. The columns , a part of the enta- 
 blature, the eight square , eight round bas reliefs of the 
 fronts , two large squares of the sides and seven statues 
 of violet marble were taken from the arch of Trajan. 
 
 The bas reliefs under the grand arcade appear to 
 belong to an intermediate period between Trajan and 
 Constantine. 
 
 The first bas relief on the left fronting llie Colosseum 
 alludes to the entrance of Trajan into Rome ; the second 
 to the restoration of the Appian w^ay ; the third to a di- 
 stribution of provisions 5 the fourth to the dethronement of 
 Parthomasiris king of Armenia. 
 
 The squares towards the Palatine and CfBlian repre- 
 sent the battle against Dccebalus, king of Dacia, and the 
 victory gained over him by Trajan. 
 
 In the four squares on the other front this emperor 
 is seen proclaiming Parthomaspates king of the Parthiansj 
 discovering a conspiracy framed by Decebalusj haranguing 
 his soldiers, and olfering the sacrifice called suovetaurile. 
 The eight round bas reliefs on the small arcades repre- 
 sent alternately hunting parlies and sacrifices to Apollo, 
 Mars , Sylvanus and Diana. 
 
 5*
 
 5 4 Guide of Rome 
 
 The road under tliis arch is the ancient triumphal 
 way and leads to 
 
 .ri( > . THE CHURCH OF S. GREGORIO. 
 
 Pope S. Gregory the Great , descended from the an- 
 cient and noble family Anicia , possessed a house on this 
 spot; in the year 584, he converted it into a monastery in 
 which he resided previously to his pontificate j he also 
 built here a church in honour of the apostle S. Andrew* 
 
 After his death another church was built in honour 
 of the Same Pontiff, and in 1635 cardinal Scipio Borghese 
 added the front , the portico , and the steps. 
 
 From the terrace adjoining the church are most pic- 
 turesque views of the Colosseum and of the palace of the 
 Caesars; on the terrace are three ancient chapels raised 
 by S. Gregory and renewed by cardinal Baronius. The 
 first is dedicated to S. Silvia, mother of the saint, the 
 statue is by Cordieri , a pupil of Bonarotli ; the paintings 
 of the roof are by Guido Reni. In the chapel of S. Andrew 
 is a painting over the altar by Pomarancio ; on the sides 
 are a SS. Peter and Paul, a S. Andrew revering the cross, 
 by Guido , and the flagellation of the saint , by Domeni- 
 chino. At the bottom of the third chapel , dedicated to 
 S. Barbara , is a statue of S. Gregory commenced by Mi- 
 chael Angelo and finished by Cordieri. The marble table 
 placed in the middle of this chapel is the same from which 
 S. Gregory distributed food every morning to twelve poor 
 pilgrims. 
 
 C^LIAN HILL. 
 
 This hill is larger and more irregular than the others 
 having a circumference of 16100 feet. We learn from Ta- 
 citus that it was originally called Querquetulanus being 
 then covered with oak trees j under Romulus or Talius it
 
 Second day, 55 
 
 was named Coelius from the Etruscan general Caelius Vi- 
 benus wlio had come to the assistance of the Ptomans. 
 After the destruction of Albakinga TuUius Hostilius placed 
 here the Albans and enclosed it in the city. Since the de- 
 vastations committed by Robert Guiscard in 1080 it has 
 not been inhabited. 
 
 CHURCH OF SS. GIOVANNI AND PAOIA 
 
 This church was built in the IV century on the site 
 of the house belonging to these two martyrs , who were 
 put to death under Julian. It is decorated with a portico 
 composed of eight granite columns, and in the interior 
 are 28 columns of different kinds of marble. The pavement 
 is a species of mosaic composed of porphyry serpentine 
 and white marble offering one of the finest specimens of 
 the Alexandrine work or opus Alexandrinum so named 
 from Alexander Severus who brought it to perfection. The 
 paintings of the tribune are by Pomarancio, that of the 
 fourth chapel on the right is by Benefial. 
 
 In the garden adjoining the church are remains of a 
 building in travertine, supposed to be the vivarium, or 
 enclosure for the beasts destined for the games of the am- 
 phitheatre. It has two stories , one under ground , leading 
 to an ancient quarry. 
 
 The other remains before the church probably formed 
 part of the «Macellum magnum », or of the great meat and 
 fish market which was on the Ccelian. Tradition has pre- 
 served to this spot the name of uPescaria vccchia» or old 
 fish market. 
 
 ARCH OF DOLABELLA. 
 
 From the inscriptions still existing on the eastern 
 front we learn that this arch was raised in the tenth year 
 of the christian era by the consuls Publius Cornelius Do-
 
 X 
 
 56 Guide of Rome 
 
 labella, and Cains Junius Silanus (flamen Martialis) a priest 
 of Mars. Hence this arch probably formed the entrance to 
 the Campus martialis on the Cffilian, where the equlria, or 
 equestrian games , were celebrated when the Campus 
 Martius was inundated by the overOowings of the Tiber. 
 
 It served as a support to the aqueduct of Nero the 
 remains of which extend to the Later an. 
 
 ^^ THE CHURCH OF S. MARIA IN DOMNICA. 
 
 Was built on the site of the house that belonged to 
 S. Cyriaca a Roman lady \ it is called also the Navicella , 
 from a marble boat placed in front of it by Leo X. In the 
 interior are 18 fiue granite and two porphyry columns, 
 and the attic has paintings in chiaroscuro by Julio Ro- 
 mano and Picrin del Vaga. 
 
 In the space between this church and that of S. Ste- 
 phen were the Castra peregrina, or barracks of foreign 
 soldiers as was ascertained by several inscriptions found 
 on the spot. They still existed in the IV century and 
 served as a prison to Chodonoomar whom Julian defeated 
 in 559 near Slrasburg. 
 
 Adjoining this church is the villa Mattei : the two 
 large pedestals covered with inscriptions were dedicated 
 by the soldiers of the V cohort to Caracalla and Maximin: 
 a small egyptian obelisk decorates the grounds. 
 
 S. STEFANO ROTONDO. 
 
 It lias been asserted by some writers that this build- 
 ing was the temple of Faunus , by others of Bacchus , or 
 of Claudius , but when we observe that its columns are of 
 diffeient orders and diameters; that the cross surmounts 
 some of the capitals ; that it is known from Anastasius the 
 Librarian that Pope S. Simplicius consecrated this church 
 in 467, it cannot be denied that it is a christian edifice 
 of the Y century) it is called S. Slefano Ptotondo from its
 
 Second day. 57 
 
 circular form , it was restored by Nicholas V in 1452 wlio 
 enclosed its double portico. The interior of ibis church 
 gives an idea of the magnificence of ancient edifices 5 its 
 diameter is of 133 feet and it is supported by 58 marble 
 and granite columns , some of which are corinthian and 
 some jonic. 
 
 On the walls are paintings by Pomaraucio and Tcm- 
 pcsta representing the sulVerings of christian martyrs under 
 the Jews , Roman emperors , and Vandal kings. 
 
 CHURCH OF S. CLEMENT. 
 
 The body of this saint, one of the early successors of 
 S. Peter, and that of S. Ignatius bishop of Antioch, repose 
 under the high altar. This church existed in the Y cen- 
 tury , was restored by several Popes, and Clement XI 
 reduced it to its present state; it is interesting as the only 
 church in Rome that preserves the divisions and principal 
 parts of ancient churches. 
 
 We may observe the vestibule before the church in 
 the piazza di S. Clemente where is a small portico formed 
 by four columns, a work of the "VIII century; the atrium 
 or court surrounded with porticoes leading to the entrance 
 of the church ; in the middle nave is an enclosure in 
 marble with the monogram of John VUI , used as a choir 
 in the primitive churches, having on each side the »am- 
 bonesa from which the epistle and the gospel were read 
 to the people. The sanctuary was isolated ; in this part 
 are seats for the bishop who assisted at the ceremonies. 
 The mosaic of the roof is of the XllI century. The paint- 
 ings alluding to the crucifixion of Christ and to the mar- 
 tyrdom of S. Catherine, in the left chapel from the en- 
 trance are by Masaccio, and though injured and in part 
 destroyed , several of the heads convey a great idea of the 
 merit of that artist. The tomb of cardinal Rovarella is a 
 beautiful work of the Xlll century.
 
 /./ 
 
 ©laiDig m sDmi 
 
 THIRD DAY 
 
 FROM THE LATERAN TO THE QUIRINAL. 
 
 PIAZZA OF S. JOHN LATERAN. 
 
 X hus named from Plautius Lateran who resided this in 
 quarter. The palace having been destroyed by fire was 
 rebuilt by Sixtus V according fo ihe designs of Domenico 
 Fontana. The present Pope has restored it. 
 
 BASTISTRY OF CONSTANTIME. 
 
 This building was raised by Constantine in the La- 
 teran palace when he erected the church , it was restored 
 in the IX century, then by Gregory Xlll and in 16'10 by 
 Urban Ylll. An antique urn of basalt serves as the bap- 
 tismal font , it is surmounted by a cupola supported by 
 two rows of columns, eight of white marble and eight of 
 porphyry. Above the second row are paintings allusive to 
 S. John Baptist by Andrea Sacchi. In the lateral chapel 
 on the right are two serpentine columns , and a statue of 
 S. John from the original by Donatello. 
 
 -' BASILIC OF S. JOHN LATERAN. 
 
 This basilic is the first of Rome and of the catholie 
 worldj from Constantine it is called the Constantinian; from 
 the spot on which it is built the Lateran , and having been
 
 Third daij. 59 
 
 dedicated in tlie YII century to S. John Baptist and to the 
 Evangelist it is also called the basilic of S. John. 
 
 The primitive temple lasted ten centiiries and together 
 with the palace was destroyed by fire , but was rebuilt 
 under Clement V, Pius IV, and Sixtus V who added the 
 portico. Clement the Xll raised the grand front , and de- 
 corated it with four large columns and six pilasters to 
 support the entablature, over which is a balustrade with 
 ten colossal statues of saints and that of our Saviour in 
 the middle. Five doors lead into the church 5 the one 
 walled up is called sanla , being opened only in the year 
 of the jubilee. 
 
 The interior is divided into five naves; in the middle 
 one are the statues of the XII apostles. The Corsini chapel 
 built bv Clement the Xll in honour of S. Andrew Corsini 
 one of his ancestors is one of the most magnificent in 
 Rome. Over the altar between two columns of verde an- 
 lico is a mosaic representing that saint copied from Guide: 
 on the pediment are the figures of Innocence and Penitence; 
 in the has relief S. Andrew is seen defending the fiorenline 
 army at the battle of Anglileri. In the large niche, deco- 
 rated with two porphyry colunms is the mausoleum of 
 Clement XII. It is adorned with the superb antique urn of 
 porphyry taken from the portico of the Pantheon, and the 
 bronze statue of this pontiff by Main! who also executed 
 the statue of cardinal Neri-Corsini opposite, and those of a 
 genius and religion. 
 
 Around the high altar are four granite columns sup- 
 porting a gothic tabernable where, amongst other relics, 
 the heads of SS. Peter and Paul are preserved in silver 
 ©eliquaries. 
 
 The altar of the holy Sacrament has a tabernacle or- 
 nnmcnted with precious stones placed between two angels 
 of gilt bronze and four verde antico columns. Those in 
 bronze supporting the entablature are 8 feel 7 inches iu
 
 60 Guide of Rome 
 
 circumference , and are supposed to be those formed by 
 Augustus of the spars of the egyptian vessels captured at 
 tlie battle of Aclium. 
 
 In the tribune is the altar of our Saviour with mo- 
 saics} one of the precious objects preserved in this basilic 
 is the table used at the last supper of Christ. Annexed to 
 the church is a cloister of the XIII century in which Ur- 
 ban YlII collected several monuments of the middle ages. 
 
 SCALA SANTA. 
 
 When Sixtus V rebuilt the Lateran palace he pre- 
 served the chapel and the triclinium of Leo III which had 
 nat suffered from fire : he raised a portico according to the 
 designs ef Fonlana and placed under it the stair case 
 which existed in the palace of Pilate at Jerusalem , on 
 which our Saviour passed several limes. Having been thus 
 sanctified, the faithful now ascend it on their knees, and 
 descend by the four lateral stair cases. It consists of 28 
 marble steps so consumed by friction that it became ne- 
 cessary to cover them with wood. 
 
 At tlie top of the slairs, under the altar of the chapel, 
 is an ancient and highly venerated image of our Saviour , 
 and in four cases made of cypress wood are relics which 
 have given to this chapel the appellation of Sancta San- 
 ctorum. In the external niche are preserved the mosaics 
 of the triclinium of S. Leo 111. 
 
 PORTA S. GIOVANNI. 
 
 Substituted by Gregory XllI to the ancient Asinfwia 
 gate , tlms called from llie Asinia family, by which Totila 
 entered Rome. 
 
 Tw^o miles from this gate is the ancient via Latina 
 eovered with ruins of tombs and other buildings. To one
 
 Third day. 61 
 
 of these ruins was given the name of temple of Female 
 Fortune celebrated for the filial piety of Coriolanus , but 
 as the distance assigned by Plutarch and Valerius fllaximus 
 does not agree with this tradition it is in the farm at 
 Roma Vecchia that this temple must be placed. 
 
 BASILIC OF S. CROCE IN GERUSALEMME. \ ot^ 
 
 This church, one of the seven basilics of Rome, was 
 built by S. Helen the mother of Constantino and received 
 Its appellation from a large portion of the holy cross which 
 that empress had found at Jerusalem and deposited here. 
 
 The three naves are separated partly by eight large 
 columns of egyptian granite; the «baldacchino» is sup- 
 ported by four columns of breccia corallina , and under 
 the altar in an antique basaltic urn are the bodies of 
 S. Cesarius and S. Anastasius. On the roof of the tribune 
 are some fine frescoes by Pinturicchio , those in the sub- 
 terranean chapel of S. Helen are by Pomarancio, and the 
 mosaics are by Baldassare Peruzzi. 
 
 Near the church are ruins, now transformed into 
 cellars , formerly supposed to have formed part of the 
 temple of Venus and Cupid in the Variani gardens which 
 belonged to Varianus Marcellus, the father of Heliogabalus. 
 The neighbouring aqueduct of Claudius brought the Aqua 
 Claudia to the Cfclian and Palatine hills , and under 
 Sixtus V served as a support to the aqueduct of the 
 Aqua Felice. 
 
 In the villa Conll remains of the reservoir of the 
 therm;B of S. Helen have been discovered and their au- 
 thenticity is established by inscriptions found on the spot.
 
 62 Guide of Rome 
 
 ANFITEATRO CASTRENSE. 
 
 This buIHing in wliich the military festivals , called 
 castrensic games , were celebrated , consisted of two sto- 
 ries and the exterior was decorated with Corinthian pi- 
 lasters and half columns. It was enclosed within the walls 
 by Honorius. 
 
 Passing under the Neronian arches of an elegant con- 
 struction we arrive at the 
 
 PORTA MAGGIORE. 
 
 As it was customary among the ancients to give an 
 Imposing aspect to those parts of the aqueducts which 
 crossed the public roads the emperor Claudius raised at 
 this spot a monument in the form of a triumphal arcii 
 which may be considered as one of the most magnificent 
 of ancient Rome. It is built of enormous blocks of traver- 
 tine and is composed of two large and three small arches 
 with columns. 
 
 In clearing away the constructions raised on it in the 
 middle ages a sepulchre was found in a tower bearing 
 an inscription to Marcus Yirgilius Eurysaces, a rich baker 
 in the lattei^ times of the i-epublic. Under Honorius this 
 monument was destined to contain gales of the city , and 
 being composed of two arches one became the Labican , 
 the other the Prenestiue gate ; the former has long since 
 disappeared. 
 
 Beyond the gate in the city walls on the left the ca- 
 nals of the aqucc Julia Tepula and Marcia are still visible 
 and at a short distance that of the Aulo vetus sunk in 
 the ground. 
 
 Beyond the gale, the Labican way on the right follows 
 the directioo of Labicura a city of Laiium mentipned by
 
 Third day, 63 
 
 Livy an3 oilier nncienl writers ; it is now llie \illnge of 
 Colonna. At the dislance of a mile and a half from the 
 walls are the rains of the aqueduct of Alexander Severusj 
 and half a mile further on those of the mausoleum of 
 S. Helen in which is a small church dedicated to tlw 
 martyrs SS. Peter and Marcellinus who were buried in 
 its cntacombs. 
 
 Several funeral inscriptions of the «equites singulareS" 
 having been found here it may be presumed that the bu- 
 rying ground of this select body of cavalry was in this 
 direction. Some fragments of these inscriptions are infixed 
 on the walls of the church. 
 
 VIA PRENESTINA. 
 
 This road led to Gabii and to Prsenesfe. The exten- 
 sive ruins spread over the ground about three miles from 
 the walls are those of the Gordian villa which contained 
 porticos and ihermGe. The remains of two halls and of 
 a temple are well preserved. In the interior oi the cella 
 are traces of old paintings which indicate ibal in the middle 
 ages this temple was transformed into a church. 
 
 MINERVA MEDICA. 
 
 These ruins have been considered by antiquaries as the 
 temple of Minerva , the statue of that goddess , now in 
 the Vatican, having been found bere, though the Ibrm of 
 the building is ihat of a large hall belonging probably to 
 some ancient villa. The building is decagonal, the dislance 
 between the angles is 22 ^Jz feet and the circumfe- 
 rence 220. The statues discovered on the spot are those of 
 Esculapius , Pomona , Adonis , Yeous , a Faun j Hercules 
 and Auliaous.
 
 64 Guide of Rome 
 
 Between this eclifice aurl the Porta Mngglore are two 
 columbaria , one built by Lucius Arruntius , consul ia 
 the VI year of our era to receive the ashes of his slaves. 
 
 On the right are the remains of an ancient founlaia 
 generally called the 
 
 TROPHIES OF MAPaUS. 
 
 On account of the two marble trophies formerly 
 placed on the sides, as ornaments, and transferred under 
 Sixtus V to the balustrade of the Capitol ; in examining 
 the style of these trophies and of the building, it is evident 
 that they are of the time of Septimius Severus who les- 
 tored the aqueducts of the city. 
 
 CHURCH OF S. BIBIANA. 
 
 Consecrated in 470 in honour of Biblann, this church 
 was restored by Honorius 111 in 1224, and by Urban Ylll 
 in 1 625 , who raised the front on the designs of Bernini. 
 It is composed of three naves divided by antique granite 
 columns; the frescoes of the middle nave allude to the 
 history of S. BIbiana whose statue, at the high altar, is 
 considered fo be one of the best works of Bernini. 
 
 Under the altar is an antique urn of oriental ala- 
 baster 17 feet in circumference containing the bodies of 
 this saint, of S. Demetria and of their mother S. Daphrose. 
 
 S. EUSEBIUS. 
 
 This church is very ancient ; the roof was painted 
 by i\lengs , and some frescoes of merit have been found 
 on the walls of the subterranean chambers existing in tlae 
 garden.
 
 Third day. C5 
 
 PORTA S. LORENZO. 
 
 Originally called Tibuiiine , tlie road which passes 
 under it being thai of Tibur or Tivoli. It was built by 
 Honoriiis in 402 and supports the ancient aqueduct of 
 the Julian Marciau and Tcpulan waters. 
 
 S. LORENZO OUT OF THE WALLS. 
 
 This basilic built by Constanline in 550 was restored 
 by several Popes particularly by Honorius 111 who added 
 the portico in 1216, and used it for the coronation of the 
 count of Auxerre , Pierre de Courlenay, as latin emperor 
 of Conslanlinople. 
 
 The portico has six jonic columns, of different dia- 
 meters ; the paintings relate to the history of Honorius •, 
 of SS. Laurence and Stephen. 
 
 The interior has three naves divided by 22 jonic co- 
 lumns of granite 5 near the entrance is an antique sarco- 
 phagus witli a has relief representing a Ptonian marriage. 
 la the middle nave are two marble «iunbones» used for 
 singing the gospel and epistle. In the tribune is the an- 
 cient Pontifical seat inlaid with sundry stones; this tribune, 
 the primitive basilic, bas 12 fluted columns of violet 
 marble the greater part of which is under ground , two 
 of tha capitals have trophies instead of acanthus leaves. 
 Over this entablature are twelve smaller colunms two of 
 green porphyry. The bigh altar is ornamented with four 
 of red porpbyry supporting a marble baldaccbino under 
 which repose the bodies of S. Laurence and the proto- 
 marlyr S. Stephen. Behind the tribune is the sarcophagus 
 which contained the remains of S. Zosimus Pope in 418, 
 having bas reliefs representing genii galbering grapes, a 
 subject frequently seen on the early christian monuments. 
 
 6*
 
 66 Guide of Rome 
 
 The subterranean chapel in the left nave is celebralerl 
 for the privileges and indulgences granted by dilTerent 
 Popes to those who visit it. 
 
 ARCH OF GALLIENUS. 
 
 This arch , situated near S. Eusebius , was dedicated 
 to Gallienus about the year 260; it is formed of large 
 travertine blocks and is in good preservation. 
 
 The church of S. Yitus was built near the ancient 
 ciMacellum Livianuni», which was rebuilt by Livia, the 
 wife of Augustus j near it is a monument in egyplian gra- 
 nite with a crucifix and a figure of the B. Virgin , raised 
 by Clement "VIU in 1595 to commemorate the absolution 
 given to Henry IV of France. 
 
 On the piazza of S. Maria Maggiore is a column of 
 the Corinthian order 58 1/2 feet high , including the base 
 and capital, and 19 feet 3 inches in circumference; it be- 
 longed to the basilic of Constanline. Paul V placed on the 
 summit the bronze statue of the B. Virgin. 
 
 V S. MARIA MAGGIORE. 
 
 This church is situated on the summit of the Esqui- 
 liue called Cispius near the ancient temple of Juno Lucina ; 
 it was built in 552 in consequence of a vision of S. Libe- 
 rius and John the Patrician which was confirmed on the 
 following day by a fall of snow on the 5lh august, a mi- 
 racle which gave rise to the festival still celebrated on that 
 day by the church. The snow covered the space which the 
 building was destined to occupy, and for this reason it 
 was theu called « S. Maria ad Nives » , but now S. I\laria 
 Maggiore, as it is the principal church dedicated to the 
 Madonna. It is one of the seven basilics of Piome and of 
 the four which Iiave a holy gate for the Jubilee.
 
 Third (lay, 67 
 
 In 432 Pope S. Sixliis 111 enlarged this church which 
 was restored and enriched by several Popes and particu- 
 larly by Benedict XIV. The front has two rows of co- 
 lumns, one doric, the other coriiithiaii ; on the lower por- 
 tico , supported by eight granite columns , are has reliefs 
 and a statue of Philip IV king of Spain. From the central 
 balcony of the upper portico the sovereign Pontiff gives 
 his blessing to the people ; the mosaics are by Gaddo 
 Gaddi , a contemporary of Cimabue. 
 
 The interior is composed of three naves separated by 
 36 jonic marble columns taken from the temple of Juno. 
 
 The chapel of the holy Sacrament, built by Sixtus V 
 on the designs of Fontana , is covered with marble and 
 decorated wilb paintings and corinthian pilasters. On the 
 right is the tomb of Sixtus V adorned with his statue, four 
 verde antico columns , has reliefs and the statues of 
 S. Francis and S. Anthony of Padua : on the left is that of 
 S. Pius V, whose body is preserved in a verde antico urn , 
 adorned with gilt bronze. In the middle of the chapel is 
 the altar of the holy Sacrament with a magnificent taber- 
 nacle , supported by four angels of gilt bronze. 
 
 The high altar is isolated jjl consists of a grand por- 
 phyry urn covered and a marble slab wilh four bronze 
 gilt angels at the corners, above it is a rich baldacchino 
 supported by four porphyry columns and surmounted by 
 six marble figures of angels. The mosaics of the grand 
 arcade allude to subjects of the old testament and of the 
 life of the B. Virgin. 
 
 The sumptuous chapel of the Borghese family, erec- 
 ted by Paul V on the designs of Flaminius Pouzio , con- 
 tains several paintings and various species of marble. On 
 the left is the tomb of that Ponliif, on ihe right that of 
 Clement VIII both decorated with statues, has reliefs 
 and columns. The statues of St. Basil, of David, of Aaron 
 and S. Bernard are works of Cordieri. The altar of the
 
 68 Guide of Rome 
 
 B. Yirgin is adorned witli four fluted columns of oriental 
 jasper 5 the base and capitals are of gilt bronze; the 
 iiriese and the pedestals of the columns are of agate. The 
 image of the Madonna , said to have been painted by 
 S.Luke 5 is enriched with lapis-lazzuli and encircled with 
 precious stones. The has relief of the entablature repre- 
 sents the miraculous fall of snow. The frescoes over the 
 altar are by the Cavalier d'Arpino , those of the cupola 
 by Civoli J the paintings near the windows and arcades 
 over ihe tombs are among the best compositions of Guido. 
 
 S. PRASSEDE. 
 
 It is related that at the solicitation of S. Praxedes 
 S. Pius 1 erected in 160 an oratory in the thermae of No- 
 vatus , her brother , on the spot formerly called «Yicus 
 Lateriliusn , to which the christians retired in times of 
 persecution. The cliurch with its three naves , divided 
 by 16 granite columns , was built by Pascal 1 in 822. At 
 the high altar are four porphyry columns ; the steps 
 leading to the tribune are of rosso antico , the largest 
 blocks known. A part of a column in a chapel to the 
 right is in high veneration ; it was brought from Jerusa- 
 lem, and is supposed to be the same to which our Saviour 
 was bound during his flagellation. A painting of this sub- 
 ject by Julio Romano is in the sacristy. 
 
 ^ \/ S. MARTINO. 
 
 A church was built on this spot by S. Silvester al the 
 lime of Constautine, and over it the present church wag 
 erected in the year 500; this was embellished in 1650 
 and at the end of the last century. The three naves are di- 
 vided by 24 antique columns of dilferent qualities of mar- 
 ble. The landscapes painted on the walls are by Gaspar ,
 
 Third day. 69 
 
 and the figures by Nicholas Poiissin j the chnpel of the 
 B. Virgiu near ihc high allar is covered with precious 
 marble. 
 
 Below the steps under the high allar in a subterra- 
 nean chamber designed by Pielro da Corlona and sur- 
 rounded with columns are the tombs of S. Silvester and 
 S. Martin ; under this chamber is the church wilh its 
 mosaic pavement built by S. Silvester on the ruins of an 
 edifice of the 11 century. A council is said to have been 
 held here by S. Silvester in 524. 
 
 On the left of S. Martin's are the church of S. Lucia 
 in Sclci near the celebrated quarter of ancient Rome, 
 called the «Suburra» , and the «Yicus Patricius» , or the 
 street assigned to the Patricians by Servius TuUius. 
 
 S. PUDENZIANA. 
 
 This church , after having been repaired at sundry 
 periods, wns embellished and reduced to its present stale 
 by cardinal Caelani in 1598. The naves are separated by 
 fourleen antique columns. 
 
 The apostle S. Peter is said to have lodged in the 
 house of Pudeus , a senator , on which this church was 
 built, the cupola was painted by Pomarancio. In the 
 chapel on the right is the same altar on which S. Peter is 
 said to have celebrated mass. The statue of our Saviour 
 giving the keys to S. Peter is by Giacomo della Porta. The 
 Cacilani chapel is rich in marble and fine luniachella 
 columns. 
 
 Adjoining the Bambin Gesu , is a monastery for the 
 education of young girls. Following the Via S. Francesco 
 di Paola , the ancient «Yicus Sceleratus » , where Tullia 
 drove her car over the dead body of Servius Tullius j her 
 father, we arrive at the church of
 
 70 Guide of Rome 
 
 C^- ''^ S. PIETRO IN VINCOir. /* 
 
 Built by Eudoxia the wife of Valentinian III emperor 
 of ihe West to preserve the chains which under Herod 
 bound S. Peter in the prison of Jerusalem; it is for this 
 reason called « in Yincoli ». It was restored in 1503, and 
 embellished in 1705. 
 
 Twenty doric fluted columns of greek marble, seven 
 feet in circumference , divide the naves \ two of granite 
 support the middle arcade. On the first altar is a paint- 
 ing of S. Auguslin by Guercino ; the tombs of cardinals 
 Margetti and Agucci are from the designs of Domenichino 
 wlio painted the portraits and the S. Peter preserved in 
 tJie sacristy. 
 
 The tomb of Julius II is from the designs of Michael 
 Angelo who plnced in the middle his celebrated statue of 
 Moses considered as one of the master-pieces of modern 
 sculpture. It is of colos-sal size and represents Moses with 
 the tables of the law under his right arm casting a re- 
 proachful look on the people whose faith seems to be wa- 
 vering. The four statues in the niches are by Raphael 
 fle Monlelupo a pupil of Buonarotti. 
 
 The S. Margaret over the following altar is one of 
 llie best works of Guercino , the tribune was painted by 
 Giaconio Coppi a Florentine; the S. Sebastian in mosaic 
 is of the "VH century ; over the last altar is a Piety by 
 Pomarancio. 
 
 THERMjE of TITUS. 
 
 The thermae were originally established at Rome for 
 the purpose of bathing , but in the course of time these 
 edifices became places of luxury surrounded with porti- 
 cos , gardens, possessing libraries, saloons, and places 
 destined for athletic games which were viewed from a
 
 Third day. 7 f 
 
 kind of theatre. Agrlppa was the first who raised this 
 kind of building for the public. His example was followed 
 by Nero and Titus 5 those of Agrippa and of Nero were in 
 tlie Campus Martins. Titus selected the palace aud gardens 
 of Nero ; having been enlarged under Domitian , Trajan 
 aud Adrian these thermte extended from the Colosseum 
 to the church of S. Marlino. They were near the palace 
 of Titus among the ruins of which was found , under 
 Julius 11 , the celebrated group of the Laocoon. 
 
 This edifice is now destroyed but some remains 
 convey an idea of its magnificence j the plan of it is pre- 
 served in the fragments of the plan of Rome at the Capitol. 
 The subterraneous chambers , belonging for the most part 
 to the house of Nero , over which Titus built his thermsB, 
 are covered with arabesque paintings which from the 
 vivacity of the colours , the variety and accuracy of the 
 design, excite the admiration of artists. It is supposed that 
 Raphael availed himself of theSQ frescoes in painting tlie 
 Loggie of the Ya-tican. 
 
 SETTE SALE. 
 
 Tills building consisted of two galleries , the lower 
 one is now under ground j the upper story had nine cor- 
 ridors, serving as a piscina or reservoir of water , built 
 before the time of Titus. The walls are of a strong con- 
 struction having a plaster which resists the action of watei 
 called by Vilruvius <(opus signinum» , it is composed of 
 fragments of baked earth mixed with a fine cement. Tlte 
 doors are situated alternately in places where they could 
 not diminish the strength of the walls , and are so dis- 
 posed that from four of tlie doors the eight that remain are 
 visible. The present corridor is 37 feet large , 12 wide 
 «udJ8 high.
 
 72 Guide of Rome 
 
 Beyond the cliurch of S. IMaria in Carinis , so called 
 from theCarinrc,a quarter of ancient Rome so named from 
 its resemblance to the keels of ships , is the Torre de'Conti, 
 built on the ruins of the temple of the Earth near which 
 was the residence of Pompey the great. 
 
 FORUM PALLADIUM. 
 
 The emperor Doraitian having commenced his forum 
 to the left of those of Ca3sar and Augustus , erected a 
 temple in honour of Pallas , and named his forum Palla- 
 dium J it was afterwards called the forum of Nerva. The 
 two Corinthian columns , three parts under ground called 
 the Colonnacce, are 9 1/2 feel in circumference and 29 in 
 height. They support a richly worked entablature. The 
 has reliefs on the friese representing the arts of Pallas are 
 finely composed and executed, la the middle of the attic 
 is the statue of Pallas. 
 
 F0RU3I OF NERVA. 
 
 This forum , decorated with a temple to Nerva raised 
 by Trajan is supported by a large wall, composed of large 
 blocks of peperino stone united by hooks of hard wood. 
 The style of this construction so very different from that 
 adopted in the forum , leads to the presumption that it is 
 anterior to Nerva by many centuriesjof the different arches 
 which led to this forum one only remains , called Arco 
 de' Pantani , from the marshy nature of the soiL 
 
 Adjoining this arch is the 
 
 •. "X TEMPLE OF NERVA. 
 
 One of the finest edifices of Rome for its colossal 
 dimensions , the beauty of the architecture and the rich-
 
 Third day. 73 
 
 ness of its ornamenls. All lliat remains of it is a part of 
 the portico consisting of three columns 16 ifz feet in 
 circumference and 45 in height and a pilaster supporting 
 tlie architrave which is finely ornamented. 
 
 The front of the temple , was exposed to the west 
 and according to Palladio had eight columns and tlie side 
 porticos niiic, exclusive of the pilaster next to the wall. 
 The excavations of 1821 have proved that the lateral por- 
 ticos rested on a podium placed above three elevated steps. 
 
 Opposite this building were ruins belonging to the 
 temple of Pallas which in the XVII century were em- 
 ployed in the construction of other buildings. 
 
 Near the church of S. Maria in Campo under the 
 Quirinal,are remains of a building said to be the thermse 
 of Paulus Emilius , though more probably they may data 
 from Trajan , as the construction resembles by its regu- 
 ■Jarity the monuments erected under that emperor. 
 
 FORUxM OF TRAJAN. 
 
 This column , the finest monument of the kind re- 
 maining of ancient times, was dedicated to Trajan by tlie 
 Roman senate and people after the conquest of Dacia. It 
 is of the dortc order , and is composed of 54 blocks of 
 Carrara marble placed one over the other , and united by 
 bronze hooks. The pedestal is formed of 8 blocks , the co- 
 lumn of 25 , the capital and pedestal of the statue , of one. 
 The height from the bnse to the top of the statue is 152 
 feet. Dividing it into separate parts the grand pedestal is 
 14 feet high, its base 5 ; the column , its base and ca- 
 pital 90, the pedestal of the statue 14 and the statue 11. 
 The lower diameter is 1 1 feet 2 inches, the upper 10 feet. 
 In the interior of the column is a winding stair case of 1 82 
 steps. On the summit formerly stood a bronze gilt statue 
 of Trajan which Clonstantlus 11 sent to Constantinople in 
 the year 663. Sixtus Y replaced it by the slalue of S. Peter. 
 
 7
 
 74 Guide of Rome 
 
 The large pedestal is covered with arms , eagles and gar- 
 lands of oak leaves, ihe whole of excellent sculpture and 
 composilion. 
 
 On the has reliefs, representing the two campaigns of 
 Trajan against Decehalus king of Dacia who was finally 
 vanquished in 101, are more than 2500 male figures inde- 
 pendently of horses 5 arms, machines of war, military 
 ensigns and trophies , each figure being about two feet 
 high. These bis reliefs have always been considered as 
 master pieces of sculpture, and have served as models to 
 Raphael , to Giulio Piomano and other great artists. 
 
 The magnificence of the column corresponded with 
 that of the forum, constructed by Apollodorus of Da- 
 mascus. It was surrounded with porticos of columns 
 supporting statues and bronze ornaments; with a basilic, 
 a temple and the celebrated Uipian library. It was found 
 in the last excavations that the column was placed in the 
 centre of a small oblong court 76 feet in length and 5i5 in 
 width paved with marble having to the south the wall of 
 the basilic , and on the three other sides a portico com- 
 posed of a double row of columns. The library was divided 
 into two parts one for greek , the other for latin works 
 which were afterwards removed by Diocletian to his 
 ihermce : remains of it have been found behind the two 
 small porticos near the column. The basilic followed the 
 direction from east to west, having its principal entrance 
 to the south; the interior was divided by four rows of 
 columns into five naves , the pavement was composed of 
 giallo antico and violet marble , the walls were covered 
 with white marble , the roof with gilt bronze , and the 
 five entrance steps of large blocks of giallo antico; frag- 
 ments of the steps , the pavement and of the granite co- 
 lumns belonging to the interior peryslile, are still visible. 
 Towards the column , the basilic was closed by a wall ; 
 it had three entrances each decorated with a portico of four
 
 Third day. 75 
 
 columns supporting an attic , on the terrace above were 
 a ti'iumphal car and statues , a triumphal arch led to the 
 great square situated to the south and surrounded with 
 sumptuous porticos. It is probable that a similar space 
 existed at the opposite extremity behind the temple, so 
 that what remains at present may be estimated at about 
 one third of the surface of tlie forum of which the whole 
 length was 2000 , and the breadth 650 feet. 
 
 Amongst the equestrian statues raised on this spot 
 was tliat of Trajan in gill bronze placed before the temple 
 which particulnrly attracted the attention of the emperor 
 Constantius when he visited Rome in the year 554, 
 
 The injuries of lime and the depradatious of man 
 ruined all these magnificent edifices which were still en- 
 tire in the year 600 even after the ravages of the Ootids 
 and Vandals. The fragments and inscriptions found in the 
 last excavations are affixed to the walls. 
 
 S. MARIA DI LORETO. 
 
 This church , of octangular form with a double 
 cupola was designed by Sangallo. Over the altar of the 
 second chapel is a fine statue of S. Susanna by Quesnoy, 
 the Fleming, and over the high altar is a painting by 
 Pictro PeruL'ino. 
 
 THE COLONNA PALACE. 
 
 ;^^ 
 
 Was commenced by Martin V and finished by the 
 princes of the Colonna family. 
 
 The apartment on the ground floor was painted by 
 Caspar Poussin , Tempesta , Pomarancio, the cav. d'Ar- 
 pino etc. On the stair case is a colossal statue of a captive 
 king, and a has relief in porphyry of the head of Medusa. 
 
 In the hall adjoining the gallery are portraits by 
 Titian , one of Luther and one of Calvin ; others by Tin- i^'TT^ 
 toretto} a guardian angel and a Madonna by Guercino,
 
 76 Guide of Rome 
 
 two Paul Veronese , and the resuscitation of Lazarus by 
 Parmigianino. 
 
 The vestibule of the gallery contains several land- 
 scapes by Poussin and Orizzonte, by Berghem, Svanevelt, 
 Breughel and Paul Brill ; the gallery, an Assumption by 
 Rubens , several portraits in the same picture by Gior- 
 gione ; a S. Francis and S. Sebastian by Guido 5 two 
 S. John by Salvalor Rosa, the martyrdom of S. Agnes by 
 Guercino, a Magdalen of Annibal Caracci, a holy Family 
 with S. Lucia by Titian , the shepherds sleeping by Ni- 
 cholas Poussin , the peace between the Romans and Sa- 
 bincs by Domenico Ghirlandaio. 
 
 The palace communicates with the gardens on the 
 declivity of the Quirinal where two large fragments of a 
 frontispiece of fine workmanship constitute the ruins of 
 the temple of the Sun or of Serapis. 
 
 SANTI APOSTOLI. 
 
 This church, founded by Constantine, was renewed 
 in tlie interior at the beginning of the last century on the 
 design of F. Fontana. An antique bas relief in the poi'tico 
 represents an eagle grasping a laurel crown. Opposite is 
 the monument of Volpato by Canova. 
 
 On the roof of the middle nave Baciccio has painted 
 the triumph of the Franciscan order. The chapels are or- 
 namented with pictures and columns ; over the high altar 
 is the martyrdom of SS. Philip and James by Muratori. 
 
 The tomb of Clement XIV with the statues of Cle- 
 mency and Temperance is a celebrated work of Canova, 
 
 The chapel of S. Francis was painted by Cbiari. The 
 descent from the cross over the altar of the last chapel, 
 by Francesco Manno. 
 
 In the environs of this church were the «Forum Sua- 
 riuni», the street of the « Cornelians », and the grand tem- 
 ple of tlie Sun, built by Aurelian.
 
 ~i — ^V ;'l.--
 
 (gW^S ©S IS©iai3 
 
 FOURTH DAY 
 
 FROil THE QUIRINJL TO THE MAUSOLEUM. 
 THE QUIRINAL. 
 
 J n ancient limes this hill was named Agonaltus or Agonius 
 from the Sabine word Agon , a hill 5 and subsequently 
 Quirinal from the temple of Quirlnus or from Cures , a 
 Sabine city. lis circumference is 15,700 feet, and its 
 height above the level of the sea 320. 
 
 The present name of Monte Cavallo is derived from 
 the groups of colossal men and horses said to represent 
 Castor and Pollux whicii may be considered as master 
 pieces of Grecian sculpture though of authors unknown, 
 the inscriptions Phidias and Praxiteles not being anterior 
 to the middle ages these groups cannot be attributed to 
 those celebrated artists. Pius YI placed between them 
 the obelisk found near the Mausoleum of Augustus, and 
 Pius "Vll transferred here from the Forum the large bason 
 of oriental granite now used as a fountain. 
 
 PAPAL PALACE. 
 
 Built by Gregory XIll in 1574 on the ruins of the 
 thermae of Constantino it was successively enlarged under 
 Sislus Y and several other Popes j Pius Yll completed its 
 embcllishmenls. 
 
 Near the chapel is an extensive hall paved with mar- 
 bles of various kinds ; the roof richly sculptured has a 
 friese painted by Lanfranc and Saraceni the Yenitian.
 
 78 Guide of Rome 
 
 Over the chapel door is a bas relief by Landlui repre- 
 senting Jesus washing the feet of the apostles. The apart- 
 ments are decorated with a SS. Peter and Paul by fra 
 Bartolomco , a S. Jerome by Spagnoletto, a resurrection 
 by Vandyk, a Madonna of Guido , David and Saul by 
 Gucrclno. The frescoes of the chapel allusive to the life 
 of the Viigin , and the annunciation over the altar are 
 beautiful compositions of Guido. 
 
 In the other room are excellent worlds of modern ar- 
 tists : the frieses of FiticUI representing the triumph of 
 Trajarj , and that of Alexander by Thorwaldsen. 
 
 y PALAZZO ROSPIGLIOSI. 
 
 This palace was built by cardinal Scipio Boighese on 
 the ruins of the Constanlinian thermae and is now possessed 
 by the Rospigliosi family. 
 
 The pavilion of the garden is decorated with the 
 Aurora of Guido representing Apcllo , aenlcr lac figure 
 of the Sun seated in a car drawn by four horses abreast 
 and surrounded by seven nymphs allusive to the hours. 
 The grandeur of the composition, the perfection of the 
 design and coloring have given this painting a high cele- 
 brity. The frieses round the room , representing the 
 triumph of love and the triumphal pomp of virtue are 
 by Tcmpcsta , the landscapes by Paul Brill. 
 
 In the adjoining chambers arc: a fine antique bust 
 of Scipio Africanus ; Adam and Eve in Paradise , the 
 triumph of David by Domenichlno. The apostles by Ru- 
 bens, Samson overturning the temple by Ludovico Car- 
 racci and several ancient busts. 
 
 S. SILVESTER. 
 
 This church contains several paintings of merit. In 
 the second chapel a Giacomo Palmaj an Assumption by
 
 Four ill daij. 79 
 
 Scipio Gaelani , llie David dancing before ihe aik; Judiiti 
 showing the head of Holofcrnes to the Kelluilians; Esllier 
 fainting in presence of Assueriis 3 the Queen of Saba seated 
 on the throne with Solomon, are by Domenichino. The 
 side walls of one of the chapels were painted by Malhurin 
 and PolydorCaravaggloj the roof by the cavalier d'Arpino. 
 
 The Yilla AlJubrandini situated near thi? cljurch 
 possesses several statues and other ancient monuments. 
 
 In the vicinity of this villa are the churches of S. Do- 
 minick and Sixtus and of S. Catherine of Siena both deco- 
 rated with pilasters of the corinthian order. In the court 
 of tlie monastery attached to this latter church a brick 
 tower was raised in the year 1210 by Pr.ndolfo Suburra 
 ihe senator of Rome. The tales respecting this tower, that 
 it was built by Augustus , and that Nero viewed from it 
 the burning of Rome are inventions of the middle ages. 
 
 The church of S. Agatha and S. Bernardino of Siena 
 are on the declivity of the hill leading to the valley which 
 separates the Quiiical from tht Yiminal called in ancient 
 times «Yallis Quirinalis» , from the temple dedicated to 
 Romulus under the name of Quiiinus. 
 
 Opposite the church of S. Yilalis founded In 4I6 are 
 substructions of the Viminal hill : on this are now placed 
 the church of S. Lorenzo in Pancperna , and barracks. 
 
 S. DENIS. 
 
 This church and monastery built in 1619, are now 
 occupied by french Nuns following the rule of S. Basil; 
 they take charge of the education of young females. 
 Though plain the architecture is remarkable for its ele- 
 gance. Over an altar on the left is a miraculous image of 
 the B. Virgin which belonged to S. Gregory the Great. 
 The pictures of S. Denis and S. Louis are by Lebrun j the 
 "Ecce homo)) by Luca Giordano.
 
 80 Guide of Rome 
 
 The Qualtro Fontane, so called from the fountains 
 at the four angles offer views of the obelisks of S. Maria 
 Maggiore , of Blonte Cavallo and of the Tiinila de' Monti. 
 
 S. CHARLES", 
 
 The front has two orders of columns, and the court 
 of the house adjoining has two porticos, one above the 
 other 5 supported by 24 columns. 
 
 5. Andrew's. 
 
 Built in 1678 for the noviciate of the Jesuits by 
 prince Pamphilj , and embellished with marble columns 
 and paintings. In the chapel of S. Francis Xavier are three 
 pictures by Baciccio. The high altar piece is the Crucifixion 
 of S. Andrew by Borgognone. Under the altar of the fol- 
 lowing chapel , the body of S. Stanislas is preserved in an 
 uru of lapis lazzuli. 
 
 S. BERNARDO. 
 
 In 1598 the countess Sforza changed into a church 
 one of the two round buildings situated at the southern 
 angles of the thcrmce of Diocletian supposed to have been 
 tlie tepidaria or calidaria or rooms for tepid or hot balhs. 
 Some ruins of the theatre are still seen in the garden 
 behind the church. 
 
 / THE FOUNTAIN OF AQUA FELICE. 
 
 Erected by Sixtus V on the designs of Domenico Fon- 
 tana is divided into three arcades by two breccia and two 
 granite jonic columns. 
 
 The central arcade contains the colossal statue of 
 Moses striking the rock j the lateral arcades , bas reliefs
 
 Fourth day. 81 
 
 of Aaron conclucllng tlic Hebrews to the mirnculous 
 spring ; and Gcdeon cliosing soldiers to open the pnssage 
 of the river. An abundant supply of water falls into three 
 marble basons. 
 
 THE THERMS OF DIOCLETIAN. 
 
 Constructed by the emperors Diocletian and Max- 
 imian, cover a space of 1069 feet in length and breadth 
 or an enclosure of 4276 feet in circuit. These immense 
 thermae , which according to Olympiodorus afforded suf- 
 ficient room for 3200 bathers were of a square form , 
 closed at each of the south west angles by circular halls 
 which still exist , one in the church of S. Bernard , the 
 other in a granary near the entrance of the villa Massimi. 
 Decorated with porticos, halls , groves , and walks these 
 thermce also contained schools of science and of athletic 
 exercises, and a magnificent hall called the Piuacotheca 
 W^hich has been transformed into the church of 
 
 S. MARIA DEGLI ANGELI. ^ 
 
 The Pinacolheca , or principal hall of Diocletian's 
 baths , was changed into a church by order of Pius IV, 
 under the direction of Michael Angelo Bonarolti who re- 
 duced it to the form of a greek cross, and rendered it one 
 of the finest churches in Rome. The pavement having beea 
 raised six feel , on account of the humidity of the spot , tlie 
 bases and a part of the granite columns are under ground. 
 
 In 1740 Vanvitelli reduced the church to its present 
 stale ; he placed the altar of the blessed Nicholas Albcr- 
 gatti on the spot which had before been occupied by the 
 grand entrance j the lateral door became the chief en- 
 trance , and he added eight brick columns covered with 
 stucco to the nave supported by eight of real granite. 
 
 The present entrance is by a round vestibule of the 
 same size as the church of S. Bernard, and was used for- 
 
 7*
 
 82 G aide of Rome, 
 
 inerly as one of the lialls. At tlie sides are the tombs of 
 Carlo Maratta and of Salvator Rosa , of cardinals Parisio 
 and Alciato. On ihe right is the chapel of S. Bruno, whose 
 statue by Houdon is near the entrance to the transversal 
 nave whicli is supported by eight granite columns 16 feet 
 in circumference and 45 in height comprising their base 
 and. capital. The church is 336 feet long , 74 wide and 
 84 in height. 
 
 The first picture on the right represents the Cruci- 
 fixion of S. Peter by Ricciolini , the second the fall of 
 Simon the Magician : it is a copy of the original of Vanni 
 existing at S. Peter's. The altar piece of the following 
 chapel is by Graziani , the side paintings by Trevisani, 
 and those of the roof by Biccherai and Mazzelti. The 
 S. Peter restoring Tabitha to life is a copy from Baglioni , 
 the painting near it is an original by Mutian. 
 
 In the nave of the high altar four large paintings 
 cover the side walls; the first on the right, representing 
 the Presentation of the Virgin at the temple is by Pioma- 
 nelli ; the second , the martyrdom of S. Sebastian , is a 
 classic work of Domenichino j the baptism of Christ is by 
 Carlo Maratta, and the chastisement of Ananias and Sap- 
 phira by Pomarancio. 
 
 Returning to the transvessal nave the painting of the 
 Conception is by Bianchi ; the S. Bruno of the chapel by 
 Odazzi, the side pictures by Trevisani, and the Evange- 
 lists by Procaccini. The fall of Simon Magus by Battoni , 
 and the S. Basilius of Subleyras adorn the opposite wall. 
 In 1701 the meridian was traced in this church , with the 
 signs of the zodiac composed of variegated marbles. 
 
 The cloister adorned with a square portico supported 
 by 100 travertine columns was designed by Michaelangelo. 
 
 Behind the baths wis the agger of Servius Tullius, 
 or the artificial rampart of earth defended by square 
 blocks of volcanic stone and a deep ditch. Beyond the
 
 Fourth day. ^ 3 
 
 rampart are remains of llie Prnclorian camp. Enclosed in 
 the vineyard of the Jcsulls nnmcd Mncao , the external 
 part of it is easily distinguished in following the line of 
 walls to the right of Porta Pia. These ruins convey an 
 accurate idea of the form of roman camps. 
 
 S. MARIA DELLA VITTORIA. 
 
 The interior of this church built by Paul V in 1C05 
 is enriched with Sicilian jasper, and contains a S. Francis 
 in the second chapel with paintings on the side walls by 
 Domenichino. In the sumptuous chapel of S. Theresa is 
 the statue of the saint in an exslasy of divine love. The 
 Holy Trinity over the altar of the following chapel is by 
 Guercino , the Crucifixion by Guldo Rcni. 
 
 PORTA PIA. 
 
 This gale replaced in 1364 the Nomcntana gate, so 
 called from Nomcntum a Latin town situated 12 miles 
 from Pvoiul'. Its present name is derived fi om Pius IV 
 who ornamented the internal part on the designs of Mi- 
 chael Angelo. Near the original gale is the tomb of 
 Quintus llalerius, the praetor, a personage of note at the 
 lime of Tiberius. 
 
 On the right of the road are the Villa Patrizi , in a 
 delightful situation ; Lucernari formerly Bolognetli j Mas- 
 simi , and Torlonia. The latter when the embellishments 
 now in progress are completed , will be one of the most 
 splendid villas in the environs of Piome. 
 
 S. AGNES. 
 
 This church was built by Constantine on the spot 
 where tlie body of S. Agnes was found. A marble stair 
 case of 45 steps , on the walls of which are numerous se-
 
 84 Guide of Rome 
 
 pulcliral inscriptions, leads to the church, divided inio 
 three naves by 16 antique columns of different kinds of 
 marble, 15 smaller columns support the upper portico , 
 and four of porphyry surround the altar composed of pre- 
 cious marble where the body of the saint is laid. Around 
 tlie tribune is a mosaic of the time of Honorius I , and on 
 the allar to the right a head of our Saviour by Bonarotti. 
 This church preserves the form of the civil basilics of the 
 Romans. 
 
 S. CONSTANTIA. 
 
 Some mosaic works representing genii gathering 
 grapes induced antiquarians to consider this church as 
 an ancient temple of Bacchus , but it is known that these 
 ornaments were frequently used in early christian build- 
 ings. The present construction being of the time when art 
 had declined and the plan not agreeing with that of an- 
 cient temples , it is better to adopt the statement of Ana- 
 stasius and Ammianus Marcelllnus that Constantine built 
 this baptistry of a spherical form for the baptism of the 
 two Constantias his sister and daughter. 
 
 A sarcophagus of porphyry found on the spot , having 
 the same symbols as those on the roof, of the same style 
 and form as that of S. Helen would seem to indicate that 
 it served as a sepulchre of the Constantine family. Both 
 tliese sarcophagi were removed by order of Pius VI to the 
 Vatican Museum. 
 
 The bodies of S. Constantia and S. Emerenliana are 
 placed under the middle altar j 24 granite columns form 
 the interior peristyle ; the external corridor is nearly 
 destroyed. 
 
 Some walls of an oblong form , improperly termed 
 the hippodrome of Constantine, belonged as the late ex- 
 cavations have proved , to a christian burying ground 
 placed between the two churches.
 
 Fourth day. 35 
 
 A mile beyond these ruins is the Nomentan bridge 
 throwu over the Anio , and on the other side 
 
 THE MOXS SACER. 
 
 The plebeians oppressed by the palricians withdrew to 
 this spot, which they fortified, in the year of Rome 361. 
 The senate sent deputies , priests and the vestals to per- 
 suade them to rcliirn though to no purpose. They yielded 
 to Mcnenlus Agrippa whose fable of the limbs of the 
 human body is related by Livy. The tribunes were then 
 instituted , but being abolished by the decemvirs the 
 people witlidrew a second time to this spot when a law was 
 passed, rendered sacred by an oalh, that no revolt should 
 ever be attempted against the tribunes. This hill, liilherlo 
 called «Velia» was thenceforth denominated Mons Sacer. 
 
 At the distance of another mile, between the No- 
 mentan and Salarian ways, in a spot called Vigne nuove 
 are the ruins of the villa of Phaon in which Nero sought 
 a refuge and put an end to his days. The position of this 
 villa is determined by the testimony of Suetonius. 
 
 PORTA SALARIA. 
 
 When rionorius enlarged the walls the Porta Salaria 
 was substitued to the Colliua of Servius. In 409 Alaric king 
 of the Goths , entered Pvome by this gate through which 
 the Gauls had also penetrated in the times of the republic. 
 
 VILLA ALBAXI. 
 
 This villa was built in the middle of the last century 
 by cardinal Albani who formed in it , under (he direction 
 of VVinkclman , a large collection of statues, busts, has 
 reliefs, sarcophagi , and other antique monuments. 
 
 In the vestibule are bas reliefs in stucco copied from 
 the antique , a statue of a young man said to be C. Cccsar 
 son of Agrippa j a Roman lady under the form of Ceres j
 
 86 Guide of Rome 
 
 a Nymph , a slave witli a dagger In his hand improperly 
 named Brutus , the colossal masks of Medusa , Bacchus 
 and Hercules. 
 
 On the walls of the slair case, among sundry has re- 
 liefs is that of the children of NIobe killed by Apollo. In 
 the oval room are a has relief representing the carceres 
 of a circus 5 and a Faun. 
 
 The cabinet contains bronze statues of Pallas, of the 
 Famcse Hercules of Glycon, of Apollo Saurotonus , one 
 of the most remarkable of the collection ; a small Osiris , 
 a Serapis of green basalt, Hercules reposing, vases of ala- 
 baster and porphyry. 
 
 In the third room , over the chimney is the proGIe 
 of Anlinous, celebrated for the beauty of its execution. 
 The gallery, ornamented with eight pilasters inlaid with 
 mosaic, and ten with different sorts of marble, contains 
 has reliefs of Hercules in the garden of the Hesperldes, of 
 Dedalus and Icarus, Alexander and Bucephalus , Marcus 
 Aurelius with Faustina under the figure of Peace. The 
 painting on the roof, a celebrated work of Mengs, repre- 
 sents Apollo and Mnemosyne on Parnassus, surrounded by 
 the Muses. The chiaroscurl are by Lapiccola. In the room 
 adjoining is a greek has relief of Eurydlce bidding an 
 eternal farewell to Orpheus at the moment that Mercury 
 reconducts her to the infernal regions. 
 
 In the hall of the Caryatides are a vase of a beautiful 
 form, the celebrated Caryatides inscribed with the names 
 of Crilon and NIcolaos , athenlan sculptors; two other 
 Caryatides of excellent workmanship , the busts of Lucius 
 Verus, Yespaslan and Titus, a colossal mask of Sllenus. 
 
 The gallery on the ground floor contains several 
 hermes of Themistoclcs , Epicurus, Alexander, Amilcar, 
 Leonidas , Masinlssa and Scipio; a celebrated Mercury, a 
 statue of Faustina found near the forum of Ncrva, Venus, 
 a Muse , a Faun and a priestess.
 
 Fourth day. 87 
 
 Under the porlico supported by pilasters and 28 co- 
 lumns of diflerent marbles are slalues of the hours , and 
 of several Roman emperors. In the porch of Juno are the 
 statue of that goddess; two Caryatides, the heads of So- 
 crates and Pcrlinax in has relief. 
 
 In the long gallery are 18 hermes; a greek statue of 
 a female holding a flower, in the same attitude and style 
 as those whicli decorated the front of the temple of Eginaj 
 these are now in Bavaria ; a Faun with Bacchus , Apollo, 
 Diana , and a priestess of ancient greek style. This gallery 
 leads to a hall paved with antique mosaic, in the centre is 
 a superb marble sarcophagus on which is represented the 
 marriage of Thetis and Peleus. 
 
 In the first of the following rooms are a porphyry 
 bust called Berenice, with a head of green basalt j those 
 of Caracalla Pertinax and Lucilla in rosso antico. A has 
 relief represents Diogenes in his tub conversing with 
 Alexander j a Dedalus preparing the wings of Icarus , 
 and an antique landscape found on the Esquiline. 
 
 In the second are a supposed Ptolemy by Stephanos, 
 a pupil of Praxiteles ; a Pallas , a Venus : Jupiter sealed 
 amid the twelve signs of the zodiac ; a white marble 
 vase 22 feet in circumference, found at the temple of 
 Hercules on the via Appia with the labors of Hercules 
 sculptured in bas relief. 
 
 The third is decorated with sis columns and several 
 antique marbles j a Faun , a bust of Lucius Yerus , black 
 granite and africano vases ; an antique mosaic on which 
 is figured the inundation of the Nile , and a small b is re- 
 lief of Iphigenia on the point of sacrificing Orestes and 
 Pylades on the altar of Diana. 
 
 In the last room are a statue of Apollo seated on a 
 tripod : a Leda , the combat between Achilles and 
 Memnon , and a fragment of cornice from the temple of 
 Trajan found in the ruins of his forum in 1767.
 
 88 Guide of Rome 
 
 The hall of the billiard room contains among other 
 statues those of Bacchus and Hvacintluis. In tlie room op- 
 posite are a Berenice wife of Plolemey Evergeles offering 
 the sacrifice of her hair for the safe return of her husband ; 
 in the room adjoining are a statue of Diana of Ephesus , 
 and of a female Satyr. 
 
 In another part of the garden , in a semicircular por- 
 tico supported by 26 columns of different marbles, are 
 the statues of Mercury , Achilles , Apollo , Diana , a pre- 
 tended Sappho , Hercules , Bacchus and two Caryatides ; 
 20 smaller statues are placed on columns corresponding 
 with those of the portico. There are also 20 busts, and 20 
 hermes, the most remarkable are those of Esop, Isocrates, 
 Hortensius the orator ; Aurelian , Balbinus and Caligula. 
 
 Under the porch are two statues of black egyptian 
 maible , two sphinxes, six small statues and a large bason 
 of egyptian breccia. The mosaic pavement and paintings 
 of the gallery are the woik of Lapiccola , the landscapes 
 are by Arnesi, the small pictures by Biccherai. On the 
 base of the statue of Juno is an antique mosaic represent- 
 ing a school of philosophers , and another representing 
 Hesione delivered from the sea monster. 
 
 SALARIAN BRIDGE. 
 
 It was on this bridge that 550 years before the chri- 
 stian era Manlius killed the Gaul who had challenged him 
 lo single combat from whom he look the torques or golden 
 collar worn by the Gauls ; this exploit obtained for him the 
 name of Torquatus. On the rising ground near the spot 
 where the Anio joins the Tiber was situated Aniemnae, 
 one of the most ancient towns of Latium. The plain and 
 hills on the right of the bridge have been the scene of 
 events celebrated in early Roman history ; the defeat of 
 the Yeians and Fidenates by Tullus Hoslilius ; the defec-
 
 Fourth day. 89 
 
 tion and punishment of Fufctius chief of the Albans which 
 occasioned the destruction of AlbaUmga. The tower on the 
 left of the road is built on an ancient tomb. 
 
 GARDENS OF SALLUST. 
 
 On his return to Rome from Africa which he had go- 
 verned in the interests of Ca?sar , tlie historian Sallust 
 formed these gardens in the valley between the Quirinal 
 and Pincian hills and on a part of Monte Pincio. At his 
 death they were inherited by his nephew , a friend of 
 Augustus and Tiberius , and in the 20 year of the christian 
 era they entered into the imperial domain. The villa con- 
 structed on the spot was inhabited by Nero , Yespasian , 
 and also by Aurelian after the conquest of Palmyra. Having 
 been destroyed by the Goths under Alaric in 409 no 
 attempt was made to restore it. 
 
 It is easy to trace the situation of the circus, the re- 
 mains of ihu palace 5 uf a leuiplc; uf Yeuus , of the sub- 
 structions 0:1 the sides of the Quirinal , and in the Barbe- 
 rini viyna the agger of Servius TuUius under which was 
 the « Campus sceleratus* where the vestals, who had 
 violated their vow, were buried alive. 
 
 VILLA LUDQvrsr. 
 
 This villa , now the property of prince Piombino , 
 consists of three edifices j one of which was built on the 
 designs of Domenichlno. The most remarkable works of 
 art in the second are a colossal head of Junoj the sta- 
 tues of Esculapius, Apollo, Yenusj busts of Claudius, 
 Julius Caesar , Apollo , Antinous , a splendid statue of 
 Mars in repose ; groups of Apollo and Diana , of Pan and 
 Syrinx. A statue of Cleopatra, a gladiator, a Yenus quit- 
 ting the bath, a Hercules, Bacchus and Mercuryj a finely 
 draped statue of Agrippina ; the group of Orestes reco-
 
 90 Guide of Rome 
 
 gnized by bis sisler Eleclra, tbe work of Menelas a greek 
 sculptor J as appears from tbe iuscripliou ; and ibat of 
 Pselus and Arria, or more probably of Hemon supporting 
 Antigone. Pluto carrying oft' Proserpine is by Bernini. 
 
 In tbe tbird is tbe fresco of Aurora a master-piece 
 by Guercino. Tbe goddess sealed on a car drawn by four 
 horses, and preceded by tbe bours, scatters flowers around 
 her. A youth holding a torch and flowers signifies day 
 break , and the female asleep night. 
 
 The following room contains two landscapes by Do- 
 menicbinOj and two by Guercino who painted also Fame 
 under the figure of a female sounding a trumpet and hold- 
 ing an olive branclij this work is not inferior in merit to 
 the Aurora. 
 
 S. TXICCOLG DI TOLENTINO. 
 
 This church built in 1614 by prince Pamphilj con- 
 tains, a fine fresco of Pietro di Cortona who designed the 
 Gavolli chapel. The picture! of S. Agnes yras copied from 
 
 the original of Guercino in the Doria gallery. 
 
 In the piazza Barberini , situated on tbe site of the 
 ancient circus of Flora , is a fountain supported by four 
 dolphins , with a Triton in the centre. 
 
 ^{ CAPUCHIN CHURCH. 
 
 lo the first chapel on the right is tbe celebrated pic- 
 t\ire of S. Michael by Guido. I'be Conception over the 
 high altar is by Bombelli ; tbe vS. Antony and S. Bona- 
 venlure by Andrea Sacchi. S. Paul cured by Ananias , is 
 one of the most correct works of Pielro di Cortona. 
 
 S. ISIDORO. 
 
 The convent adjoining this church is occupied by 
 Irish Franciscans. The first chapel on the right and that 
 on the left of the high altar were painted by Carlo Waralia,
 
 ^
 
 Four I h day. 91 
 
 The S. Isidore of the hiyh allar is one of the best works 
 oi" Andrea Sacclii. 
 
 THE BARBERINI PALACE. 
 
 Was commenced under Urban VIII by Carlo Maderno 
 and finished by Bernini. On the roof of the saloon Piclro 
 di Corlona has painted the triumph of glory under the at- 
 tributes of the Darbcrini family. In the ccnire piece the 
 arms of that family are carried up to heaven by the vir- 
 tues in the presence of Providence , of time eternity and 
 the Fates. The first side picture represents Minerva ful- 
 minating the Titans j the second religion and faith trium- 
 phing over voluptuousness. The third Justice, Abundance, 
 Charity andllercules destroying the Harpies, an allegory of 
 the chastisement of the wicked. The fourth the church and 
 Prudence, Yulcan and Peace, closing the temple of Janus. 
 
 In the gardens of the palace was the «Capilolium 
 velus»5 which had three chapels dedicated by Numa to 
 Jupiter, Jui30 and Minerva. la the couit ia tlic aiiliqire 
 inscription taken from the triumphal arch erected to tlie 
 emperor Claudius after the conquest of Britain. 
 
 FONTANA DI TREVI. X C>L_ r;;:^ 
 
 The Aqua Yergine , which sup;^)lies this fountain, 
 was introduced into Rome hy Agrippa for the use of his 
 baths situated near the Pantheon. Its source is 8 miles dis- 
 tant from the city on the ancient CoUaline way , the sub- 
 terraneous aqueduct is 14 miles long; after traversing the 
 villa Borghese and villa Medici , the water divides into 
 two streams , one taking the dircciion of this fountain , 
 and the other that of the via Condotti. 
 
 Before the front of the palace where the fountain is 
 placed are four corinthlan columns and six pilasters , 
 between which are two bas reliefs, cue represents Agrippa 
 and the other the young girl who first discovered the
 
 92 Guide of Rome 
 
 spring. In the large niche is the stalue of Neptune stand- 
 ing on a car drawn by seahorses and guided by Tritons^ 
 commanding the waters which rush out of a mass of rocks. 
 The side niches contain the statues of Abundance and 
 Salubrity ; the four over the entablature complete the de- 
 coration of the attic. 
 
 The little church of S. Maria in Trivio on the left of 
 the fountain is said to have been built by Bellsarfus. It 
 was reduced to its present form on the designs of Del Duca 
 in the middle of the XVII century. 
 
 In the church of S. Andrea delle Fratte are two an- 
 gels by Bernini ; the ceiling was painted by Marini. The 
 steeple is a curious work of Borromini. 
 
 PROPAGANDA FIDE. 
 
 This religious establishment was founded by Gre- 
 gory XV in 1622, for the purpose of propagating the ca- 
 tholic failh. Young men from all countries are admitted 
 here 5 and after liaving fliiibhed llieir educalloii are sent 
 as missionaries to different countries. The college possesses 
 a typography furnished with all sorts of oriental charac- 
 ters, a library with many cophlic and oriental works, and 
 a collection of medals , gems and other curiosities. 
 
 PIAZZA DI SPAGNA. 
 
 So called from the residence of the Spanish ambas- 
 sadors at Rome. In the centre is a fountain called the 
 Barcaccia from its form and the stairs that lead to tlie 
 Trinita de' Monti, on the Pincian hill. 
 
 The church of the Trinita de' Monti was built by 
 Charles Vlll king of France, who presented it to the 
 religious order of S. Francesco di Paolo. It belongs, at 
 present, to the community of the Sacre Coeur de Jesus , 
 who have established a house of education for young ladies 
 in the adjoining convent. This church was restored in 18 15.
 
 Four ill day, 93 
 
 In the sacrislj^ is the beautiful fresco of Daniel dl Yolterra, 
 represeuliiJg the deposition from the cross. 
 
 FRENCH ACADEMY. 
 
 This palace was built in 1540 on the designs of An- 
 nibal Lippi-, the front overlooking the garden on those of 
 Rlichael Angelo ; it was enlarged by cardinal de' Medici 
 and although within the walls the circuit of the whole 
 villa , which commands extensive views over the city and 
 its environs , is of about a mile and a half. 
 
 The French academy founded by Louis XIV in 1666, 
 is composed of a director and twenty pensioners chosen 
 among the young men who have obtained prizes at Paris 
 in sculpture, painting, architecture, music and engraving. 
 
 VILLA BORGHESE. ) 
 
 This villa, one of the largest and most splendid of 
 Rome , owes its origin to cardinal Scipio Borghese the 
 nephew of Paul V. At the end of last century it was en- 
 larged under prince Rlarc'Antonio , more recently by the 
 princes Caniillo and Francesco Borghese j it has been con- 
 siderably embellished by the latter who added to it the 
 villa of Raphael. 
 
 The grand entrance is of the jonic order erected on the 
 model of the finest propylaBa of Greece and Asia minor. 
 At the extremity of the great walk is an arch surmounted 
 with a statue of Septimius Severus j and the propylaea of 
 an egyplian temple leading to the villa of Raphael who 
 painted on the walls the marriage of Roxana, various sa- 
 crifices and arabesques , all which have suffered from the 
 lapse of time. Beyond the aqueduct , on the right , is a 
 small temple consecrated to Diana ; on the left, the lake 
 and temple of Esculapius, and at the end of the walk an 
 imitation of an antique monument with copies of sundry 
 inscriplions found at the country house of llerod Atlicus.
 
 94 Guide of Rome 
 
 The palace, biiill on the designs of Vansanzio , a 
 flemish architect , contains a large collection of antique 
 monuments. 
 
 Under the portico arc two triumplinl has reliefs that 
 belonged to the arch of Claudius, others allusive to a battle 
 between the Romans and barbarians, and to the origin of 
 Rome; a curious monument in travertine bearing the in- 
 scription Orvius or Corvius Nasica, representing a Roman 
 magistrate preceded by three lictors, and several antique 
 inscriptions. ^ 
 
 Saloon. The fresco on the roof painted by Rossi , re- 
 presents the arrival of Camillus when the garrison of the 
 Capitol were in treaty with Brennus for the ransom of 
 the city; the circular has reliefs, the sacrifice of Polixenes, 
 Hercules and Jule. The colossal busts of Isis and a Muse^ 
 of Adrian and Antoninus Pius are admirably executed. In 
 the left niche is a semicolossal statue of a Faun, in the 
 right, one of Bacchus. The bust of Vespasian, the funeral 
 altar of Flavia and the tomb of Petronia , a celebrated sin- 
 ger of the time of Antoninus Plus, are interesting works. 
 
 In the first chamber are copies of has reliefs from 
 antiques , arabesques and paintings. The subject of the 
 \asc alludes to the story of OEdipus and the sphinx. The 
 statue of Ceres, from the expression of the head, the deli- 
 cacy of the work and the drapery, is considered as a ma- 
 ster piece of ancient sculpture. On the right is the has 
 relief of Telephus found in the ruins of the imperial villa 
 CMi the Labican way , aud a torse of Ganymede from No- 
 mentuin. 
 
 The second chamber , contains several monuments 
 relative to the history of Hercules. In the middle is the 
 amazon Antlopcj combating Hercules and Theseus; on 
 the sarcophagus are the labours of Hercules against the 
 lion , the hydra , the wild boar with the hind and the 
 stymphalides. The arrival of the araazons to assist Troy ,
 
 Fourth da>j. 9'> 
 
 figured on the cover of ihe sarcophagus, has heen iUu- 
 slrated bj' Wliikehnan. The opposile side alkides lo five 
 other labours : against the bull of Crete , Geryon , Hippo- 
 lilus , the dragon of the Hesperides , the centaur Nessus ; 
 and the second part of the cover lo the council of the gods 
 on the marriage of Thetis. 
 
 The third chamber in which are works of Bernini , 
 contains 16 pilasters and four columns of red oriental 
 granite. The ceiling was painted by Marchetti ; the meta- 
 morphosis of Daphne in the valley of Tempe by Moore j 
 Apollo and Diana by Labruzzi, and the animals by Peters. 
 The groups of Apollo and Daphne , IZneas , David drawing 
 the sling against Goliah are by Bernini. The bas reliefs 
 allusive to the seasons represented on four vases are by 
 Laboureur. 
 
 The gallery is one of the most splendid of Rome, 
 lis twenty pilasters of giallo anlico with gilded capitals 
 are ornamented with while marble camei and blue mosaics 
 executed on the designs of Tominaso Conca by Carradori, 
 Salimbeni and other artists of his time. In the niches are 
 antique statues of a Muse , Diana, Bacchus and Thetis j 
 on the walls, are eleven modern bas reliefs alluding to 
 mythological suljjcts j the arabesque paintings are by 
 Marchetti J the fable of Galalhea is the work of de Angelis. 
 The busts in porphyry of the emperors , the porphyry 
 sarcophagus found in the mausoleum of Adrian j four 
 lables of the same marble ; several vases and cups of ala- 
 baster and species of other marble particularly one in 
 ophix , a very rare cgypllau stone , complete the deco- 
 rations of this chamber. 
 
 The cabinet contains an Hermaphrodite, several pre- 
 cious marbles , busls of Tiberius, Sappho, Mercury and 
 Scipio. An antique pavement in mosaic found at Caste! 
 Arcione on the road lo Tivoli, and a table inlaid with 
 ag Ue , jasper, lapis-lazzuli and other precious stones.
 
 §■6 Guide of Rome 
 
 The paintings on the ceiling alluding to the fable of the 
 Hermaphrodite and Salmacis are by Buonvicini. 
 
 in the fourtli chamber are sixteen pilasters and four 
 columns of breccia corallina. The council of tbe gods was 
 painted by Pecbeux ; the chiaroscuri by Marcbetti. The 
 four oil paintings by Thiers , a frencb artist, represent a 
 chase and tbe dealli of Milo, Polydamas and tbe gratitude 
 of Theseus. A statue of the pytbian Apollo in the primitive 
 greek style, and a sarcophagus on which are sculptured 
 Tritons and Nereids , in allusion to tbe transfer of souls 
 into the isles of tbe blessed. 
 
 Tbe fifth chamber possesses several monuments rela- 
 tive to the religion of Egypt , various species of marble 
 and columns in oriental granite , nero antico , a statue of 
 Isis with her attributes in bronze, a Ceres; a female statue 
 of a style anterior to the lime of Phidias j a bronze bead 
 of Bacchus ; the remaining part is of flowered alabaster. 
 
 In the middle of tbe sixth chamber is an antique group 
 of three figures emblematic of youth, virility and old age, 
 or of spring, summer and winter; there are also a Ceres, 
 a Mercury inventor of the lyre, two Fauns, a Pluto, an 
 Antoninus Pius , Bacchus and Proserpine a very ancient 
 and unique group. 
 
 On the second story are chimney pieces of amethyst, 
 porphyry, rosso antico, several paintings by Peters, Gavin 
 Hamilton , the statues of Paris and Helen , and four has 
 reliefs in giallo antico on a ground of porphyry, the work 
 of Pacetli.
 
 (giraiDis ©3 a©sii 
 
 FIFTH DAY 
 
 FROM THE MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS 
 TO THE FELABRUM. 
 
 MAUSOLEUM OF AUGUSTUS IN THE VIA PONTEFIGI. 
 
 Ouetonius , speaking of the funeral of Augustus , says 
 that his remains were placed in the monument which he 
 had erected in his VI consulate, or 27 year before our era, 
 between the Flaminian way and the banks of the Tyber. 
 The ashes of Oclavia , Drusus , Germanicus and of other 
 members of his family were also deposed here. 
 
 Strabo observes , in the 5th book of his geography , 
 that on a circular and elevated base of wbite marble was 
 a mound of earth, planted with evergreens ; that on its 
 summit was the bronze statue of Augustus and in the in- 
 terior , the sepulchral chambers destined for his family ; 
 thai behind the monument were shady walks , containing 
 in the centre a funeral pile of while marble surrounded 
 with poplars. 
 
 In the 12th century this monument was converted 
 into a fortress by the Colonna princes, and falling into 
 possession of the people of Rome it was reduced to a ruin. 
 Nothing now remains but the foundation walls and the 
 traces of 13 sepulchral rooms. About the end of last cen- 
 tury a species of amphitheatre was built on these walls , 
 which is used in the summer months for theatrical re- 
 presentations.
 
 98 Guide of Rome 
 
 S. ROCH. 
 
 This church, situated in the via Ripelta, was rebuilt 
 iu 1657 by Rossi, and its front recently by Valadler. Over 
 the allar of the second chapel is a fine painting of the 
 Virgin, S. Roch and S. Anthony, by Baciccio ; in the 
 chapels of S. Anthony and of the crib are esteemed works 
 of Calabrese and Baldassar Peruzzi. 
 
 RIPETTA. 
 
 Under Clement XI a landing place was made here 
 for the wine, oil, wood, corn and other articles brought 
 by water from Umbria and the Sabine country. The steps 
 are formed of the stones of an arch of the Colosseum 
 thrown down by an earthquake iu 1703. On the level of 
 the street is a fountain, on the columns are marked the 
 greatest inundations of the Tiber. 
 
 Opposite the steps is the church of the Schiavoni , 
 given by Nicholas V to the Ulyriau nation. It was rebuilt 
 in 1588 by Sixlus V. 
 
 BORGHESE PALACE. \ ' -^ 
 
 This palace , one of the most magnificent of Rome , 
 was begun in 1590 by caidlnal Dezza , and finished under 
 Paul V by Flaminio Ponzio. The porticos in the entrance 
 court are supported by 96 granite columns. 
 
 The apartments on the ground floor contain a choice 
 collection of pictures, open to the public daily at 10 
 o'clock. We shall enumerate the principal of them : 
 
 1st room. The holy Trinity by Leaudro Bassano, 
 the Madonna child and two apostles , the conversion of 
 S. Paul by Garofalo , a Madonna by Ghirlandajo, S. Peter
 
 Fifth day. 99 
 
 repentant hy Spagnoletto, the adoration of the kings by 
 Giacomo Bassano. 
 
 2d room. Our Saviour and a head of S. Francis by 
 Annibal Caracci ; the marriage at Cana , birth of Christ , 
 and deposition from the cross by Garofalo , tlie "Virgin , 
 Jesus and S. John by Titian, Christ with a disciple, Venus 
 weeping for the death of Adonis both by Scarsellino, the 
 chase of Diana , one of the master pieces of Domenichino. 
 
 5d room. S. Anthony preaching to the fish by Paul 
 Veronese , Pordenone and his family painted by himself, 
 a S. John Baptist in the desert by Paul Veronese , a 
 S. Francis by Annibal Caracci, and a holy Family by 
 Pierin del Vaga. 
 
 4lh room. Two apostles by Buonaroti , the rape of 
 Europa by the cavalier d'Arpino, a Raphael the deposition 
 from the cross , another deposition by Garofalo ; the Cu- 
 msean sybil of Domenichino, the visitation of S. Elisabeth 
 of Rubens , a David by Giorgione. 
 
 5th joom. The four seasons by Albano, Joseph with 
 the wife of Putiphar by Lanfranc , the Samaritan woman 
 by Garofalo , the prodigal child by Guercino , and the 
 resurrection of Lazarus by Agoslino Caracci. 
 
 6lh room. A Susanna by Rubens , a portrait of the 
 Fornarina by Giulio Romano , a Venus and Satyr by 
 Paul Veronese. 
 
 The 7lh loom is covered with looking glasses. 
 
 8th room. Contains four mosaics one representing 
 Paul V of the Borghese family, a Madonna and child by 
 Palma , and a portrait by Bronzino. 
 
 9th room. A prodigal child by Titian , a holy Family 
 by lunoccnzo d' Imola , a deposition by Pietro Perugino , 
 a portrait of Cesare Borgia , and another of a cardinal by 
 Raphael , the Madonna and child by Scarsellino } the ce- 
 lebrated picture of sacred and profane love, one of the 
 master pieces of Titian.
 
 100 Guide of Rome 
 
 10th room. The relurn of the prodigal child by Guer- 
 cino , a resurrection of Lazarus and a flagellation by Ga- 
 rofalo , a Madonna by Pielro Perugino , Samson bound to 
 the column of the temple , Jesus in the presence of the 
 Pharisees , and the three Graces all by Titian. 
 
 11th room. A holy Family by Scipio Gaelano , the 
 Virgin and child by Bellini, the wife of Titian under the 
 figure of Judith by Titian , Lot and his daughters by 
 Gherardo delle Nolti , a portrait of Raphael by one of his 
 pupils 5 a Virgin and child by Andrea del Sarto. 
 
 CAMPO MARZO. 
 
 The ancient Campus Martius extended from the Ca- 
 pitol 5 Quirinal and Pincian hills to theTyber, and in the 
 days of the republic w-^s consecrated to gymnastic exer- 
 cises , and the public assemblies for the election of magi- 
 strates , but under the empire a part only remained for 
 public use , the rest being occupied by monuments , by 
 the theatres of Pompey and Marcellus , the amphitheatre 
 of Taurus , the Pantheon and the thermae of Agrippa. 
 
 S. MARIA MADDALENA. 
 
 This church contains several ornaments , and some 
 paintings. Placido Costanzi has represented S. Camillo 
 de Lellis founder of the religious order that assists the 
 dying j Baciccio painted the chapel of S. Nicholas of Bari. 
 
 S. MARIA IN AQUIRO. 
 
 This appellation is said to be derived from the 
 "equirian games which were celebrated on this spot; it 
 is now called Orfanelli from the house in which orphans 
 are received and educated. The second chapel contains 
 paintings by Gherardo delle Notli. Over the altar is the
 
 Fifth day. iOI 
 
 \isilalion of the B. Virgin , by Boncore. In the chapel of 
 the Annunciation are a picture by Nappi, or the Capu- 
 chin, and frescoes by Saraceni. 
 
 PANTHEON. ' '^ 
 
 This monument , the most perfect of the reman 
 antiquities , was erected by Agrippa in his thii d consulate 
 in the 727 year of Rome and the 27 befoie the christian 
 era. Is is evident that the circular pari of this edifice has 
 no connection with tlie portico , a circumstance which 
 has given rise to discussion amongst modern writers , 
 some pretending that the round hall is greatly anterior to 
 Agrippa , and that he merely added ihe portico. This 
 hall , however , can he attributed only to Agrippa , as it 
 is connected with his thermae j we may reasonably con- 
 clude that wishing to transform this building into a 
 temple, Agrippa added the portico in 729 to ihe edifice 
 which had been erected in 727. Dio observes that as the 
 statue of Venus and Mars , placed in the interior , had 
 the attributes of several divinities , the temple was called 
 the Pantheon , but adds his belief that it was so called 
 from the resemblance of the roof to the form of the hea- 
 vens. The statue of Julius Caesar was placed in the inte- 
 rior J those of Augustus and Agrippa in niches under the 
 portico. Having suffered from fire under Titus and Trajau 
 the Pantheon was restored by Adrian , and at a subse- 
 quent period by Antoninus Pius , Severus and Caracalla , 
 as is proved by the following inscription still legible on 
 the architrave. 
 
 IMT. CAES. SEPTIMIVS . SEVERVS . PIVS . PERTINAX . AU\BU;VS . 
 AUIABENICVS . PARTHICVS . MAXIMVS . PONTIF. MAX. TRIE. 
 POTEST. X. IMP. IX. cos. III. P. P. PROCOS 
 
 IMP. CAES. M. AVRELIVS . ANTONINVS . PIVS . FELIX . AVG. TRIB. 
 POTEST. V. COS. PROCOS. P A NTHE VM . VET VST ATE . CORRVPTVM . 
 CVM . OMNI . CVLTV . RESTIT VERVNT
 
 102 Guide of Rome 
 
 This last restoration was made in the year 202 j no 
 further mention is made of this monument till it was vi- 
 sited by the emperor Constantius in 354. In 391 it was 
 closed like all other pagan temples , and remained so 
 till 608 , when the emperor Phocas ceded it to Boniface IV 
 who dedicated it in honour of the B. Virgin and the Mar- 
 tyrs under the title of S. Maria ad Martyres , which it 
 still preserves. 
 
 Ill 663 the emperor Constantius II stript the temple 
 of the bronze tiles which covered the roof and the cupola 
 and of the bronze statues which had escaped preceding 
 devastations and gave orders to transport them to Con- 
 stantinople. They were taken by the Saracens and car- 
 ried to Alexandria. Gregory III repaired this injury by 
 covering the roof with lead. 
 
 In the civil broils of the Xill and XIV centuries this 
 monument suffered severely , at the beginning of the XV 
 the eastern side of the portico had disappeared; ruins had 
 accumulated to the height of the bases of the columns , 
 so that it was necessary to descend several steps in order 
 to enter the church. 
 
 In 1632 Urban VIII of the Barberini family ordered 
 all the bronze of the portico to be applied to the construc- 
 tion of the columns of the confession and of the chair of 
 S. Peler , and to the founding of cannon for the castel 
 S. Angelo which amounted to eighty in'number. Torrigio, 
 who was an eye witness, says , that the metal thus carried 
 away weighed 450,251 and the nails alone 9574 pounds. 
 
 In 1662 Alexander VII restored the eastern side, 
 raised the two granite columns still standing and cleared 
 away the rubbish and huls which encumbered the portico. 
 Benedict XIV in the middle of last century reduced the 
 interior to its present state; under Pius VII the covering 
 of the cupola was partly renewed and excavations were
 
 Fifth day. 103 
 
 made near the western side of the portico which have 
 thrown light on the plan of the edifice. 
 
 The portico 103 feel wide and 61 deep, consists of 
 sixteen columns , each of a single block of oriental granite 
 14 feet in circumference and 38 in height exclusive of 
 eilher base or capital. The eight front columns of grey 
 granite support an entablature and pediment of the finest 
 architeclural proportions. The entrance into the temple 
 was formerly effected by seven steps but at present only 
 by two. The diameter of the interior which is equal to 
 its height from the pavement, is 132 feet, the thickness of 
 the external wall is 19 feet. The light enters by a single 
 circular opening 26 feet in diameter at the top of the roof. 
 
 The tribune of the high altar of a semicircular form is 
 ornamented with two large fluted columns of violet mar- 
 ble 27 feet high and 3 ifz in diameter, without the ca- 
 pital and base ; six circular chapels decorated with co- 
 lumns and pilasters support the entablature the friese of 
 which is covered with porphyry. The bronze Caryatides 
 the work of Diogenes of Athens , which according to Pliny 
 were placed in the interior, probably supported the upper 
 cornice of the attic. 
 
 Around the circumference between the chapels are 
 eight niches called by the ancients sediculaj adorned with 
 a pediment supported by two Corinthian columns of giallo 
 antico, porphyry and granite, which have been adapted 
 to serve for altars. 
 
 On the third chapel on the left in entering, under 
 the statue of the IVIadonna del Sasso , the work of Loren- 
 zetto, one of his pupils, are the remains of Raphael. The 
 busts of Peruzzi, Pierin del Vaga, Zuccari , Annibal Ca- 
 racci and others who were buried in this temple have 
 been transferred to the Capitol.
 
 104 Guide of Rome 
 
 THE CHURCH OF S. MARIA SOPRA MINERVA. 
 
 Deilves its name from ihe temple of Minerva erected 
 by Poinpey , on the ruins of which it was built. The most 
 interesting objects which it contains are a crucifix painted 
 by Giotto , the tombs of Leo X and Clement 'Vll by Ban- 
 dinelli , and a statue of our Saviour by Michael Angelo. 
 In the convent is a library open daily to the public. 
 
 The ancient church of S. Eustachio , which was re- 
 stored in the last century on the designs of Canevari , pre- 
 serves in an antique urn placed under the altar the re- 
 mains of the titular saint whose martyrdom is represented 
 in a painting by Fernandi , placed in the choir. 
 
 Near this church is the Sapienza or University com- 
 menced by Leo X on the plans of Michael Angelo j it was 
 continued by Sixtus V, and finished by Alexander YU. It 
 is divided into five colleges, viz. those of theology , laWj 
 medicine , philosophy and philology , the professors are 
 paid by governement. On the ground floor are schools of 
 the fine arts under the direction of the academy of S. Luke 
 in which lectures are delivered on sculpture , painting , 
 architecture , perspective , anatomy and mythology. 
 
 The palazzo Madama , the residence of the governor 
 of Rome, was built by Catherine de Medici , afterwards 
 queen of France , on the ruins of the thermae of Nero of 
 which several granite columns are still preserved in a 
 cellar in the Via de' Crescenzi. Numbers of statues, busts 
 and bas reliefs found in the ruins were once deposited in 
 the Giusliniani palace which contained also a fine col- 
 lection of paintings. 
 
 / S. LUIGI. 
 
 c 
 
 This church was built in 1589 by Henry 111 king of 
 France , on the designs of Giacomo della Porta. It has
 
 Fifth day. 1 05 
 
 three naves , divided by jonic pilaslers , covered willi Si- 
 cilian jasper. In ihe second chapel on the right are frescoes 
 bv Domenichino representing on one side S. Cecily di- 
 stributing her clothes to the poor , the same saint in her 
 last moments , and on the other the angels ciowning her 
 and her husband. The assumption of the "Virgin over 
 the high altar is by Francesco Bassano. In the chapel of 
 S. i\Ialthew^ is a fine painting by Caravaggio representing 
 our Saviour summoning the publican to abandon his occu- 
 pations and to follow him ; and in the sacristy a small 
 painting of the Madonna allribuled to Correggio. 
 
 CHURCH OF S. AUGUSTIN. "^ , 
 
 This church, built in 1483 on tlie designs of Baccio 
 Pintelli , by cardinal d'Eslouteville de Rohan and restored 
 in the last century by Vauvitelli is in the italian style of 
 the XV century. It is divided by columns into three naves, 
 its cupola was the first ever erected in Rome. 
 
 Near the entrance is a statue of the Madonna and 
 child , by Sansovino , which being in particular venera- 
 tion , is decorated with precious gifts. 
 
 In the chapel of S. Auguslin are three paintings by 
 Guercino. At the high altar are four angels, according to 
 the models of Bernini , and an image of the Virgin , said 
 to have been painted by S. Luke , brought to Rome by the 
 Greeks after the fall of Constantinople. In the urn of 
 verde antico of the adjoining chapel reposes the body of 
 S. Monica , mother of S. Augustin. The statue of S. Tho- 
 mas de Villanova by Ferrata , the group of the Virgin, 
 child and S. Andrew by Sansovino , and the Madonna of 
 Loreto by Caravaggio , decorate the adjoining clmpels j 
 on the third pilaslcr on the left of the entrance is the ce- 
 lebrated fresco of Isaiah by Raphael. 
 
 8*
 
 106 Guide of Rome 
 
 In ihe convent annexed to tlie church is a library to 
 which the public is admitted daily. 
 
 The church of S. Antonio de' Portoghesi , was built 
 in 1695 by Mailin Longhi , at the expense of the king of 
 Portugal. It conluins several rare and beautiful species of 
 marble, gilt stuccoes and paintings by Calandrucci , Gra- 
 ziani and Luigi Agricola. 
 
 S. APOLLINARE. 
 
 In 772 Adrian I built this church on the ruins of 
 a temple or monument consecrated to Apollo. It was 
 restored by Benedict XIV, and contains a statue of 
 S. Francis Xavier by Legros j on the altar is a painting 
 by Ercole Gennari. 
 
 In the Roman seminary young men|, destined for the 
 ecclesiastical profession , are instructed in the belles let- 
 tres 5 and the different branches of philosophy and theo- 
 logy. The establishment is under the inspection of the 
 cardinal Yicar-general who generally resides in it. 
 
 The palazzo Altemps , the porticos of which were 
 raised by Ballhassar Peruzzi , contains some ancient sta- 
 tues, columns and has reliefs, and in the chapel is preserved 
 the body of pope S. Anicetus, who died a martyr in 168. 
 
 On the front of a house in the same street Polydore 
 Caravaggio painted in chiaroscuro the fable of Niobe. The 
 Laucellotli palace possesses ancient statues of Mercury , 
 Diana and numerous busts. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF S. SALVATOR IN LAURO. 
 
 Contains 34 corinthlan columns , a painting by Pe- 
 ruzzini of the Santa Casa of Loreto, and the first produc- 
 tion of Pietro di Cortona.
 
 Fifth day. 107 
 
 The house numbered 124 in the Via Coronari , was 
 the property and once the residence of Raphael. Near the 
 piazza S. Aiigelo formerly existed an arch raised in honour 
 of the emperors Gratian , Valentinian II and Theodosius; 
 the verde aniico columns and other marbles forming its 
 decoration arc now in the church of S. Celsus , near 
 which are the palazzo Cicciaporci built by Giulio Ro- 
 mano , and palazzo Nicolini by Sansovino , a celebrated 
 florenline architect. 
 
 CHIESA NUOVA. 
 
 S. Filippo Neri , with the assistance of Gregory XllI 
 built this church which contains works of Pielro di Cor- 
 tona (who painted the ceiling and cupola) 5 of Gaetani , 
 cavalier d'Aipino and Muziano. 
 
 Before the high altar are four fine columns of porta 
 santa with the bases and capitals in gilt bronze ; three 
 paintings by Rubens represent angels, sain Is and martyrs. 
 
 The body of S. Filippo Neri , reposes in the chapel 
 consecrated in his honour, the presentation of the B. ViV- 
 gin in the temple, over the next altar, is an esteemed 
 work of Barroccio. In the sacristy is a statue by Algardi 
 of S. Philip and in the room which the saint inhabited are 
 paintings by Guercino and Guido. 
 
 . X ^ 
 
 S. MARIA DELLA PACE 
 
 This church was built under Sixtus IV by Pintelli , 
 and restored under Alexnnder VII by Pietro da Cortona, 
 who added its semicircular portico. 
 
 The interior has a nave and octogonal cupola. The 
 first chapel on the right contains a bronze has relief of 
 the deposition from the cross, and S.Catlierine surrounded 
 by Utile children by Fancellij over the arch are the cele-
 
 108 Guide of Rome 
 
 brated frescoes of Raphael representing the cumaean , 
 persian , phrygian and tiburtine Sybils. 
 
 Under the cupola are the visitation of S. Elizabeth by 
 Carlo Maralla ; the presentation in the temple, a master 
 piece of Baldassar Peruzzi j the birth of the B. Virgin by 
 Vanni , and her death by Morandi. There are four columns 
 of verde anlico near the high altar over which are some 
 works of Francesco Albano. 
 
 In the church of S. Maria dell'Anima begun in 1400 
 and afterwards enlarged by German residents in Rome who 
 established near it a hospital for their fellow citizens, are 
 sundry works of Saraceni , Gemignani ; a Madonna over 
 the altar by Julio Romano ; the tomb of Adrian Yl from 
 the designs of Peruzzi , and a monument to Luke Holsle- 
 nius who flourished in the XVll century. The front gates, 
 of a good style of architecture, are attributed to Sangallo. 
 
 PIAZZA NAVONA. 
 
 This piazza occupying the site of the circus of Alex- 
 ander Severus , some ruins [of which exist under the 
 church of S. Agues, still preserves its original form, the 
 houses being built on the foundations of the ancient seats. 
 
 Under Gregory XIII a fountain was placed at its 
 northern, and another at its southern, extremity. The latter 
 consists of two large marble basins 5 in the centre is the 
 figure of a Triton holding a dolphin , by Bernini , erected 
 under Innocent Xj on the borders of the vase are similar 
 figures executed byFlaminio Vacca, Leonardo of Sarzana, 
 Silla and Landini. 
 
 Bernini by order of Innocent X made the designs of 
 the central fountain formed of a large circular basin 75 
 feet in diameter, within which is a rock perforated on its 
 four sides , and four colossal statues , executed on the
 
 Fifth day. 1 09 
 
 models of Bernini , representing the Ganges , Nile , La 
 Plata and the Danube. 
 
 Amarket is lielcl in this piazza every Wednesday , and 
 in august it is inundated on Saturdays and Sundays. 
 
 S. AGNES. \f 
 
 This church restored by the Pamphilj princes in the 
 XVU century is in the form of a greek cross. The interior 
 contains eight large columns of cottanello marble , gill 
 stucco , verde antico near the high altar , several statues 
 and paintings by various artists of that period. 
 
 The S. Agnes in the flames , and S. Eustace exposed 
 to the lions are by Ferrata j the group of the holy Family 
 by Guidi 5 the tomb of Innocent X by Maini. Below the 
 church is one of the finest works of Algardi , represent- 
 ing S. Agnes. 
 
 The Pamphilj palace , adjoining the church , was 
 built in 1650 on the designs of Rainaldi. On the extensive 
 ceiling of the grand galleiy Pielro di Cortona painted the 
 adventures of Eneas. 
 
 The Braschi palace is celebrated for its splendid 
 marble stair case which is decorated with columns and 
 pilasters of oriental red granite. 
 
 At the corner of this palace is the piazza Pasquino 
 on which is an ancient mutilated statue placed on a pe- 
 destal} it was found near the shop of a tailor named 
 Pasquino who was celebrated for his jokes and satires a 
 circumstance from which the word pasquinade is derived. 
 The statue , thougJi greatly injured by time , exhibits 
 traces of excellent workmanships it formed part of a group 
 representing Mcnelaus defending the body of Patroclus. 
 
 The church of S. Pantaleo , erected in 1216 by Ho- 
 norius 111, was presented by Gregory XV to S. Joseph 
 Calasanzio who founded the order of the pious schools
 
 1 10 Guide of Rome 
 
 destiaed to give gratuitous instruction in reading, writing, 
 arithmetic and rudiments of latin. The body of the saintly 
 founder reposes under the altar in an urn of porphyry. 
 
 The palazzo Massimi , built by Balthassar Peruzzi , 
 contains various paintings and an antique statue of a Disco- 
 bolus, copied from the bronze statue by Myron. 
 
 S. ANDREA DELLA VALLE. 
 
 In this church, erected in 1591, are several classic 
 works of the Bolognese school. Lanfranco painted the cu- 
 pola ; Domenichino the four Evangelists and several traits 
 from the history of S. Andrew j il Calabrese the pictures 
 allusive to the life of the saint. The first chapel on the 
 right has eight columns of verde anlico ; the second , that 
 of the Slrozzi family , has twelve of lumachella , four 
 tombs and over the allar a bronze group of the B. Virgin 
 with our Saviour after his crucifixion , copied from the 
 original of Michaelangelo. The other monuments of note 
 are the tombs of Pius II and Pius 111 by Pasquino da 
 Montepulciano; the assumption over the last altar by Pas- 
 signani ; the statues of S. John the Baptist, the Evangelist, 
 S. Martha and S. Mary Magdalen. 
 
 THE THEATRE OF POMPEY. 
 
 Occupied the entire space between the palazzo Pio , 
 and the Yia Chiavari and Giupponari ; the scena or stage 
 began near the tribune of S. Andrea della Yalle, the cen- 
 tre of the semicircular part is now covered by the palazzo 
 Pio on which are the only visible ruins of this monument. 
 It contained 28,000 spectators , and communicated with 
 a portico supported by 100 columns occupying the site of 
 the present streets delia Farina , Sudario , Argentina and 
 Barbieri. On the days of public representation the senate
 
 Fifth day. 1 1 1 
 
 assembled in a hall called Curia Pompeia in which Caesar 
 fell on the ides of march ihe 709 year of Rome and 44 
 before our era. 
 
 The palazzo Stoppani, now Vidoni, was built on the 
 designs of Raphael j the Prenesline tables , a kind of an- 
 cient calendar found at Palestrina , are preserved here , 
 and at the foot of the stairs is an antique statue of Marcus 
 Aurellus. 
 
 In the vicinity of the Argentina theatre are the chur- 
 ches of the S. Sudario, belonging to the Piedmontese,and 
 S. Julian to the Flemish nation , also those of S. Helen , 
 and S. Nicholas. In the yard and cellar of the house ad- 
 joining this church are four ancient columns which formed 
 part of the temple of Hercules Cuslos finished by Sylla in 
 the 669 year of Rome. 
 
 The palazzo Muttei possesses many objects of anti- 
 quity ; the statues of Pallas , Jupiter , Abundance, has re- 
 liefs representing a consul punishing a culprit; a sacrifice 
 to Priapus ; the chace of Rleleager ; a sacrifice to Escula- 
 pius ; the rape of Proserpine ; the three Graces \ Peleus 
 and Thetis , besides busts of several emperors. 
 
 In the rooms are paintings by Paul Brill, and Breu- 
 ghel, the sacrifice of Abraham by Guido , frescoes by 
 Pietro di Cortona, and the entraDce of Charles V into Bo- 
 logna by Tempesta. 
 
 FLAMINIAN CIRCUS. 
 
 The Mattel palace just described occupies the site 
 of the circus built by Caius Flaminius who, in his second 
 consulate was killed at the battle of lake Thrasymene. 
 It covered the space bounded by the piazza dell'Olmo , 
 and Capizucchi. It was surrounded with temples which 
 have all disappeared. From the columna bellica , placed 
 before the temple of Bellona , the consuls and emperors
 
 1 1 2 Guide of Rome 
 
 hurled a dart in the direction of the country against which 
 they declared war. 
 
 In the piazza Tartaruga is the beautiful fountain , 
 raised on the designs of Giacomo della Porta j the bronze 
 figures are by Taddeo Landini a distinguished florentiue 
 artist. 
 
 In the Costaguti palace are several frescoes by cele- 
 brated artists of the first period of the XVll century. 
 Hercules shooting an arrow against Nessus who is carrying 
 away Dejanira is a work of Albano. Apollo mounted on 
 his car surrounded by Genii and Time discovering Truth 
 is by Domenichino. The episode of the Jerusalem , 
 Rinaldo sleeping on his car drawn by two dragons in 
 the presence of Armida , is a highly finished composition 
 of Guercino. The Venus , Cupid and other divinities are 
 by the cav. d'Arpino: Justice and Peace by Lanfranc 
 Arion seated on the dolphin aud a vessel filled with ma- 
 riners by Romaaclli. 
 
 S. CATERINA De' FUNARI. 
 
 This church was built in the XII and was restored 
 in the XVI century by Giacomo della Porta. The corona- 
 tion of the Virgin is by Annibal Caracci: the S. Margaret 
 a copy of an original of the same artist , by his pupil 
 Massari ; Scipio Gaetano painted over the third altar the 
 assumption of the B. Virgin. The frescoes over the high 
 altar are by Frederic Zuccari and Raffael da Reggio. 
 
 S, MARIA IN CAMPITELLI. 
 
 Was built at the public expense in 1658 , from vene- 
 ration for a miraculous image of the Madonna. In the in- 
 terior are pilasters and 22 tluled coritithian columns. The 
 paintings are by Conca, Giordano, Gemignani and Baciccio.
 
 Fifth day. 1 1 3 
 
 PORTICO OF OCTAVIA. ^ :^ . 
 
 This portico, built by Augustus , wns in the form 
 of a parallelogram having a double row of columns 360 
 feel in extent , and the temples of Jupiter and Juno in the 
 centre. The fragments preserved in the Cnpitol convey an 
 exact idea of its form and size. According to Pliny and 
 Pausanias it was decorated with several monuments of art, 
 particularly with the Cupid of Praxiteles , all which were 
 consumed by fire under Titus. The portico was restored 
 by Severus and by Caracalla , and later in the V century. 
 
 The part still existing was formerly one of the chief 
 entrances : it had an interior and an exterior front , each 
 supported by four fluted columns , and two pilasters of 
 the Corinthian order. Of one of these fronts only two co- 
 lumns and a pilaster remain j of the other , two columns 
 and two pilasters. They support an entablature terminating 
 in a pediment. 
 
 Under the portico is the little church of S. Angelo 
 in Pescheria, belonging to the fishmongers' company. The 
 painting over the altar of S. Andrew is by Vasari. 
 
 In the lane leading to the church of S. Catherine are 
 remains of the temple of Juno Regina. These consist of 
 three fluted columns of the composite order, with a part 
 of the entablature. They now belong to a private dwelling. 
 
 THE THEATRE OF MARGELLUS. /. ■ 
 
 Raised by Augustus , and so named from his nephew, 
 the son of Oclavia , was 267 feci in diameter, and con- 
 tained thirty thousand spectators. 
 
 The interior was formed of large travertine blocks: 
 on the exterior were columns of three orders of architec- 
 ture, one of which orders has disappeared. The lemains
 
 1 1 4 Guide of Rome 
 
 of the other two consist of demi-columns doric and joni'c. 
 Their proportions serve as a model to modern architects 
 for the union of these orders. 
 
 In the middle ages this monument became a fortress 
 of the Pierleoni. To these succeeded the Savelli who built , 
 on the designs of Peruzzi , the palace now occupied by a 
 branch of (he Orsini family. 
 
 About ihe middle of the neighbouring lane called della 
 Bufala was the porta Carmentalis of the first walls of 
 Rome, and near it the forum Olitorium , or vegetable 
 market in which were three temples that faced the Ca- 
 pitol. Some remains of them are still visible. One of them 
 raised by Colalinus, in the year 500 of Rome , was dedi- 
 cated to Hope , the second to Piety in the 559 year , and 
 the third to Juno Matuta in the 571. The temple of Piety 
 raised in commemoration of filial piety in this forum, stood 
 on the site of the theatre of Marcellus. 
 
 S. NICCOLO IN CARCERE. 
 
 This church, bnilt in the IX century , and since fre- 
 quently restored, is divided into three naves by 14 antique 
 columns varying in materials and diameter. Under the 
 altar is an antique urn of green porphyry with carvings of 
 Medusa's head. The remains of the three temples men- 
 tioned above may be seen in this church. Near that of 
 S. Galla was the triumphal gale of Servius. 
 
 The church of the Consolazione contains estimable 
 compositions of Zuccari , Pomarancio and Roncalli: it ad- 
 joins the hospital for the wounded of both sexes. 
 
 In the church of S. Aloy de' Ferrari , and S. John 
 Baptist are also numerous paintings by the same , and 
 by other artists. 
 
 The forum Piscarium or fish market was in this 
 quarter.
 
 (gl|^ai!>]2 D® SDSllS 
 
 SIXTH DAY 
 
 FROM THE FELABRUM TO THE FABRIC I AN 
 BRIDGE. 
 
 VELABRUM. 
 
 X he Velabrum was a marsh , formed by the overflow- 
 ings of the river and by the waters that came from the 
 Palatine and Aventine hills; it still preserves its appel- 
 lation though it was drained by the last kings of Rome, 
 when they completed the cloaca maxima. 
 
 At the foot of the Palatine was the forum Boariuni 
 or cattle market j probably the original Roman forum, on 
 which stood the bronze cow of JMyron brought from 
 Egina. In its vicinity was the ara maxima or altar raised 
 by Hercules after having killed Cacus, and the temple of 
 Hercules', discovered in the XV century, which contained 
 his statue of gilded bronze, now in the Capitol. Tacitus 
 asserts that it was at this spot that Romulus began to trace 
 the furrows of his new city, 753 years before Christ. 
 
 JANUS QUADRIfONS. ^ 
 
 This is the only arch that remains of those called 
 Jani , which served to shelter the people from the weather. 
 In 1829 it was cleared of all the constructions raised by 
 the Frangipani, when they converted it into a fortress 
 in the XllI century. Each front presents an arch with 
 small niches. This building may be ascribed to the time 
 of Severus.
 
 1 1 6 Guide of Rome 
 
 yr THE ARCH OF SEPTIMIUS SEVERUS. 
 
 Was erected , as is seen from the inscription, by the 
 bankers and merchants of the forum Boarium in honour 
 of Sevcrus and his family. Its principal front is situated 
 towards the west j under the arch are represented Severus 
 and Julia his wife, bearing the caduceus or a symbol of 
 Concord , and performing a sacrifice with Caracalla and 
 Geta, whose figure was effaced after his death but of 
 which traces are visible. Under these has reliefs are others 
 of sacred utensils , sacrifices , prisoners accompanied by 
 Roman soldiers and men driving oxen, alluding to one of 
 the trades that raised this monument. 
 
 The church of S. Giorgio in Velabro was built in the 
 IV century. It is proved by an inscription preserved there 
 that the portico was added , and the church restored in 
 the Xlll century. It is divided into three naves by sixteen 
 columns , four of which are of violet coloured marble. 
 
 The cloaca maxima was commenced by Tarquinius 
 Priscus , and finished by his son Tarquinius Superbus , 
 who drained into this channel the waters of the Velabrum. 
 
 The vault is formed of three layers of large blocks 
 of tufo united at certain distances by blocks of travertine 
 stone, without morlar or cement. The arch is twelve feet 
 in height and twelve in breadth, thus justifying the as- 
 sertion of Pliny that a car , loaded with hay, could easily 
 pass within the aperture. Its length from the forum to the 
 Tiber is 2500 feet , its mouth at the river is between the 
 Palatine bridge and the temple of Vesta. It is remarked 
 by Dionisius , Strabo and other authors that the cloacae, 
 the aqueducts and the high roads were alone sufficient to 
 place the Romans in the first rank amongst nations. 
 
 Following the declivity of the Palatine we arrive at 
 the ancient church of S. Anastasia restored by sundry 
 
 I
 
 Sixth day. 1 1 7 
 
 popes , near which was the ancient am maxima. A very 
 ancient christian altar is preserved here. In the interior are 
 8 violet , 2 red granite, and 2 africano columns. 
 
 In the Murcian valley, situated helween the Palatine 
 and Aventinc and at the foot of the palace of the Caesars 
 was V 
 
 THE CIRCUS MAXIMUS. 
 
 This spot was selected hy Romulus to celebrate 
 games in honour of Neptune (surnamed Consus) , tliey 
 were hence called Consualiaj at these was effected the rape 
 of the Sabine women. To commemorate this event the 
 subterranean altar of Consus was erected in the circus; it 
 was uncovered for the sacrifice before the games com- 
 menced , and then covered again with earth. Tarquinius 
 Priscus buiit the circus, which from its size, received 
 the appellation of maximus. The circenses , or games of 
 the circus , were the favorite amusement of the Romans. 
 Tliey consisted principally of chariot races , each chariot 
 having two or four horses , and of various athletic games. 
 Dionysius of Halicarnassus , who visited this circus after 
 its enlargement under Julius Coesar says, that it was 3 jfz 
 stadii , or nearly half a mile in length, four plethre , or 
 400 feet in breadth , and that it could contain 150,000 
 persons. Il was greatly injured by the fire which occurred 
 under Nero , but being restored by Vespasian and by 
 Trajan, il could hold 230,000 persons. It was further en- 
 larged under Conslanline and according to the notice of tlie 
 empire il then aiforded room for 405,000. 
 
 The circus was of an oblong form ; one of the ends 
 was semicircular , the other a gentle curve. At the semi- 
 circular end was the grand entrnnce; at the curve were 
 the carceres or starting place. In the middle was the spina. 
 a long narrow platform covered with araj , statues , co- 
 lumns and two obelisks ; at the extremities were the meiic
 
 1 18 Guide of Rome 
 
 round which it was necessary that the cars should pass 
 seven times before they were entitled to the prize. 
 
 A. triple line of porticos placed over each other, and 
 numerous rows of seals as in the theatres and amphi- 
 theatres were destined for the spectators. At the fool of 
 the podium, appropriated in all these places of public 
 amusement to the dignitaries of the empire, was a canal, 
 called the euripus, nine feet in breadth and depth, added 
 by Julius Cfesar. 
 
 Although originally destined for the chariot races, 
 yet wrestling , pugilistic games, foot racing, the hunting 
 of wild beasts, and other manly exercises were practised 
 in the circus. It was on this spot according to Aulus Gel- 
 Hus , that Androcles , condemned to fight in the games, 
 was recognized by the lion from whose foot he had ex- 
 ti acted a thorn in Africa j the animal licked his hands and 
 spared his life. 
 
 Besides the great circus there existed several others 
 in Pvome : the Flaminlan , that of Flora , the Sallustian , 
 those of Caligula , Adrian, Heliogabalus, Alexander Se- 
 verus , and Romulus son of Maxentius, this last is situated 
 on the Appian way. 
 
 Beyond a rivulet called the Marrana are the ruins 
 of the 
 
 THERMS OF CARACALLA. ' 
 
 The emperor Antoninus Caracalla commenced these 
 thermse in 212, and finished them in the 217 year of the 
 christian era. Porticos were afterwaixls added by Helio- 
 gabalus and Alexander Severus. Their magnificence has 
 been extolled by Spartian, Sextus Victor and by Olym- 
 plodorus who says that they contained 1600 bathing 
 places. The period of the destruction of this.splendid edifice 
 was during the wars between the Goths and the Greeks 
 in the Yl century.
 
 Sixth day. 1 1 9 
 
 In the excavations made in the XVI and XVH cen- 
 turies , the torso of the Belvedere, the Farnese Hercules, 
 the Farnesine Flora , the group of the Farnese bull , the 
 three last now at Naples , and several hundred statues, 
 more or less injured , were found in these ruins. 
 
 The form of the edifice was a square measuring 1050 
 feet on each side. In the centre was a building 690 feet 
 high, 450 wide, isolated in an extensive court used for 
 public exercises; a kind of theatre was placed on llie hill 
 to the south west. The front was at the north east , where 
 numerous chambers , still visible , were occupied by the 
 guards and slaves attached to the establishment , had a 
 common entrance into a large arched portico leading to 
 the baths J six stair cases placed at sundry distances Jed 
 to the court containing the central edifice. 
 
 Later excavations have produced mosaics of porphyry, 
 serpentine , giallo antico, porta santa, while marble and 
 lava; the designs present a variety of forms, and bril- 
 liancy of colours , but are inferior in workmanship to those 
 of the courts for exercises, representing gymnasiarchs and 
 athletac; these last are now in the Lateran palace. 
 
 This part of the thermse was distributed into two 
 courts surrounded with porticos which served for the 
 gymnastic exercises. Near this were a large central hall 
 called the Pinacotheca , in which were eight enormous 
 granite columns; a round hall at the south west opposite 
 the theatre ; and the great piscina 188 feet long and 134 
 broad which had nine channels for the passage of the waler. 
 The lower part of the walls was covered with a mastich 
 called opus signinum, which rendered them impenetrable 
 to water. At each end of the court are remains of two 
 octogonal halls near which were discovered in 1777 the 
 two basaltic baths now in the Vatican museum. 
 
 The church of SS. Nereo and Achillco was erected 
 in 524, and rebuilt in 1596. Four columns of africano
 
 120 Guide of Rome 
 
 marble support the baldachin of the altar , uear which 
 are two ambones. In the tribune is the'presbyterial chair 
 used by S. Gregory I. 
 
 The church of S. Sixtus is situated in the 
 
 VALLEY OF EGERIA. 
 
 This valley celebrated according to ancient tradition 
 as the spot where Numa consulted the goddess Egeria , is 
 between the Caelian mount and a hill called Monte d'oro, 
 yet is has been placed by modern writers at a distance of 
 three miles from the city. From a comparison of passages 
 of ancient authors , and particularly of Juvenal where he 
 describes the journey of Umbricius , it is evident that this 
 valley was near the porta Capena which was situated in 
 this direction. 
 
 On a hill to the right , overlookinsf the church of 
 S. Cesareo was the temple of Mars extra muros , and on 
 the ancient via Appia in the vigna Sassi is 
 
 •y THE TOMB OF THE SCIPIOS. 
 
 Discovered in 1790, and composed of two stories ; 
 the first still existing is a large subterranean chamber dug 
 out of the tuffoj of the second in which were semi-columns 
 of the jonic order , and niches occupied by the statues of 
 the Scipios , and by that of the poet Ennius , nothing re- 
 mains. The following objects, found in this tomb, are 
 now in the Vatican museum ; the sarcophagus of Lucius 
 Scipio Barbalus, conqueror of the Samnites and Lucanians, 
 before the first punic war 5 a bust crowned with laurel 
 supposed to be that of the poet Ennius but probably of 
 one of the Scipios ; another in white marble of an unknown 
 personage, and several inscriptions. Copies of these occupy 
 the places of the originals in this monument, so interesting
 
 Sixth day. 1 2 1 
 
 from its antiquity , and for its having been the tomb of 
 tlie family to whom Rome owed the conquest of Carthage. 
 
 In the same vineyard is the cohimbarium of llylas and 
 Vilalina, destined like other monuments of this nature, 
 to receive the ashes of the slaves, and emancipated freed- 
 men who were generally buried on the lands or near 
 the tombs of their masters : several small niches were 
 filled with the vases called olhx , which contained the 
 bones and ashes collected at the funeral pile. In front of 
 these niches were inscriptions (tlluli) with the names , 
 rank and profession of the deceased. These columbaria 
 were raised on the sides of the high roads and particu- 
 larly on the Latin and Appian ways. 
 
 The first inscription is that of Hylas and of Vitallna , 
 the proprietors j the others of persons attached to the 
 court of Augustus and Tiberius. 
 
 On the Appian way is the arch of Drusus raised by 
 the senate to the father of the emperor Claudius. The canal 
 and arcades still visible on the upper part and at the side 
 of this monument are part of the aqueduct used by Ca- 
 racalla to supply waters for his therma?, 
 
 PORTA APPIA OR S. SEBASTIAN. 
 
 This gate was substituted in place of the porta Ca- 
 pena when the city was enlarged 3 it derived its appellation 
 from the Appian way, which was paved with large blocks 
 of stone by the censor Appius Claudius in the 442 year of 
 Rome, and was the most magnificent of all those opened 
 by the Romans. It was repaired by Augustus when he 
 drained the Pontine marshes , by Vespasian , Domitian , 
 Nerva and by Trajan. It united with the Latin way at 
 the Casillne bridge near Capua. The present name of the 
 gate is taken from the basilic of S. Sebastian two miles 
 distant. 
 
 9
 
 y 
 
 122 Guide of Rome 
 
 A quarter of a mile from the gate is the Almo , a 
 stream supplied by various springs five and six miles dis- 
 tant from the city ; according to Ovid , the priests of 
 Cybele annually washed in this stream the statue of that 
 goddess and the utensils used in her worship. 
 
 Opposite the little church of « Domine quo vadis » , 
 are the ruins of the tomb of Priscilla , the wife of Abas- 
 canthus , mentioned by Statius and further on are several 
 tombs and an extensive columbarium supposed to be that 
 of the slaves of Augustus. 
 
 In the Casali vineyard several inscriptions were found 
 in 1826 relative to the Volusia family, one of the most 
 distinguished of ancient Rome, and near this spot, a 
 marble sarcophagus , of fine composition and well pre- 
 served , the has relief of which represents a battle between 
 the Gauls and Piomans. 
 
 In another vineyard , to the left of a lane diverging 
 from the main road, a large sepulchral chamber was dis- 
 covered in 1726. It was appropriated to the bondsmen of 
 Livia Augusta , and contained numerous vases and cinerary 
 vases with their inscriptions, all of which are now in the 
 gallery of the Capitol. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF S. SEBASTIAN. 
 
 Built over the cemetery of S. Calixtus is one of the 
 seven basilics of Romej it was rebuilt in 1G11 by cardinal 
 Scipio Borghese on the designs of Flaminio Ponzio. The 
 hish altar is adorned with four fine columns of verde an- 
 tico , and over the doors are figures of saints painted by 
 Antonio Caracci. The statue of S. Sebastian is by Giorgetti 
 from a model of Bernini. 
 
 A stair case leads from the church to the catacombs 
 dug in the form of corridors or galleries. These excava- 
 tions , from which sand or arena , now called pozzolana , 
 was taken for purposes of construction , were formerly
 
 Sixth dmj. 123 
 
 called arenaria. They were enlarged by the christians who 
 in the times of persecution practised here the exercises 
 of religion and buried tlieir dead. The ancient ecclesiastical 
 authors assert that 14 popes , and 170,000 christians were 
 buried here ; and that the bodies of S. Sebastian , of the 
 apostles Peter and Paul , were deposed during a certain 
 period in these catacombs. 
 
 On the left of the road are the ruins of a villa , 
 ascertained by late excavations to be that of Maxentius, 
 built in the year 511 of the christian era. One of the most 
 remarkable monuments of this villa on the Appian way 
 is the 
 
 TEMPLE OF R03IULUS. 
 
 The plan of this building is an oblong square , sur- 
 rounded with a wall, with a portico of arcades and pilas- 
 ters in the interior. In the centre was the temple of which 
 only the subterranean part now remains. Palladio from 
 whom these particulars are derived , has proved that this 
 temple was one of tliose called prostyle 5 that it had a 
 rectilinear portico with six columns , that the entrance was 
 round , and that the edifice was seen from the Appian way. 
 The subterraneous parts of the portico are well preserved; 
 the walls are about 14 feet thick ; the diameter of the sub- 
 terranean cella nearly 100; it is encircled wilh niches and 
 in its centre is a large octagonal pillar supporting the roof. 
 
 As this temple is of a construction similar to that of 
 the circus, which is ascertained by numerous inscriptions 
 found in the late excavations to have been that of Romulus 
 the son of Maxentius, and as the medals struck after his 
 death bear on the reverse a round temple , this edifice may 
 safely be considered as dedicated to the same personage. 
 
 Behind the wall of the large square court opposite 
 the carceres of the circus , is a small unknown tomb of 
 more ancient construction.
 
 124 Guide of Rome 
 
 / 
 
 THE CIRCUS. 
 
 Known during centuries under the name of Caracalla 
 was proved by the excavations made by the duke Torlonia 
 in 1825 to be that of Romulus, the son of Maxentius. 
 Three inscriptions bear the name of Maxentius j the one 
 best preserved placed under the entrance door is as follows; 
 
 BIVO . ROMVLO . N. M. V. 
 
 cos. ORd. II. FILIO 
 D. N. MAXENTII . INVICT. 
 
 viri . et .perp. avg. nepoti 
 
 T. mvi . MA.XIMIANI . SENI 
 
 ORIS . AC . bis . August i 
 Thus illustrating the anonymous writer a contemporary 
 of Maxentius published by Eccard , who says that this 
 emperor erected a circus in catecumbis , or near the 
 catacombs. 
 
 The circus being well preserved is one of the most 
 interesting monuments near Rome. Its length is 1700, its 
 breadth 260 feet j the carceres circus and spina are dis- 
 tinctly visible. The carceres are divided into 13 arches j 
 the circus in the distribution of the seats resembled other 
 edifices of this sort; the spina was 300 feel long, 22 wide 
 and from 2 to 5 high. 
 
 CECILIA METELLA. 
 
 This sepulchral monument 100 feet in diameter is 
 of a circular form built of large blocks of travertine ; its 
 walls are of the extraordinary thickness of 35 feet. In its 
 interior was found , under Paul III , the marble sarco- 
 phagus now placed in the court of the Farnese palace. 
 
 On the top of the monument is the following 
 inscription :
 
 Sixth day. 1 25 
 
 CAECILIAE 
 
 Q. CRETICI . F. 
 
 METELLAE . CRASSI. 
 
 Over which is a marble friese finely executed and 
 adorned with bucrania or bulls heads and festoons. 
 
 The upper constructions are of the year 1299 when 
 the Cactani family transformed this tomb into a fortress. 
 
 MONUMENT OF SERVILIUS. 
 
 Beyond the tomb of Metella are remains of the an- 
 cient pavement of the Appian way, which at this point 
 was 14 feet broad , and was crowded with numerous se- 
 pulchral monuments now altogether unknown; some frag- 
 ments, however, found in an excavation made in 1808 
 iudicaie thai on this spot was the tomb of Servilius Quartus. 
 
 Near the farm called Roma Yccchia are remains of a 
 quadrangular wall built of large blocks of peperino or 
 alban stone, some being ten feet long. This spot, it would 
 appear from Martial, wns the sacred field of the Horatii, 
 and near it, at the fosscc Cluiliaj, tradition places the 
 combat between the Horatii and Curialii. 
 
 VILLA OF THE QUINTILII. 
 
 The mass of ruins known under the name of Roma 
 Vecchia are those of a country house of the second cen- 
 tury of the christian era , belonging to Cordinus and 
 Maximus Quinlili , as is proved by the following inscrip- 
 tion observed on several pipes of lead : ii. qvintiliorvm, 
 coNDiNi . ET . MAxiMi. The two brothers were put to 
 death by the emperor Commodus who appropriated to 
 himself their extensive property. Several statues , has re- 
 liefs , columns and fragments were found herein 1828, 
 reservoirs of water, a fountain, an aqueduct, two large
 
 126 Guide of Rome 
 
 halls for bathing, and a small amphitheatre may be traced 
 among the ruins. 
 
 Near the circus of Romulus is the temple of Bacchus , 
 ascertained by a greek inscription on an ara of Bacchus 
 mentioned by Holslenius. 
 
 The portico is supported by four white fluted Corin- 
 thian columns, taken from some edifice of the time of the 
 Antonines; on the right hand is seen the altar of Bacchus 
 with its greek inscription and the dionysiac serpent. In 
 the XI century it became a church and was afterwards 
 dedicated to S. Urban. 
 
 In the valley of the CafFarella is the Nymphasum , 
 hitherto considered as the fountain of Egeria, known from 
 Juvenal and Symmachus to have been near the Capena 
 gate. These nympha; are frequently seen in the villas of 
 the ancients who dedicated them to rivers , fountains and 
 Naiads. 
 
 This edifice of reticular brick work had several niches 
 occupied by statues. The pavement two feet lower than 
 the present level was covered with serpentine, the walls 
 with verde antico , and the niches with white marble. At 
 the furthest end of the grotto is a recumbent statue pro- 
 bably that of the Almo. The style of the building is of the 
 time of Vespasian. 
 
 In the same valley half a mile from this Nymphseum 
 in the direction of the city is the 
 
 TEMPLE OR FANUM REDICULI. 
 
 When Annibal raised the siege of Rome a field and 
 Fanum were consecrated to the Genius of Return, but its 
 position is staled by Pliny to have been on the Appian 
 way two miles from the Capena gate j this little temple 
 was probably dedicated to the river Almo which flows at
 
 Sixth day. 127 
 
 its base. The brick construction resembles that of the 
 aqueducts near the porta Maggiore of the lime of Nero. 
 
 Its pilasters have small apertures in the ceutre and 
 two octagonal half columns are placed on the side that 
 faces a cross road connecting the Appiau and Latin ways. 
 
 Returning to the Appian way and following the 
 road near the church of S. Sebastian for the distance of 
 two miles is the 
 
 y\ BASILIC OF S. PAUL. ^ ^— 
 
 This church was built by Constantine in a farm 
 belonging to Lucina, a Roman matron, over the cemetery 
 in which S. Paul was buried. It was rebuilt and enlarged 
 m 586 by Valentinian 11 and Theodosius , completed by 
 Honorius and restored by several popes. On the night of 
 the 15 July 1825 the greater part of this basilic and in 
 particular the roof, the central nave and the doors were 
 consumed bv fire. It is already in great part rebuilt with 
 some slight deviations from its original structure. 
 
 The ancient front which still remains is adorned with 
 mosaic of the XIII century. The interior was 240 feet 
 long (without reckoning the tribune) 158 wide, and its 
 five naves were separated by 152 columns 56 feet high, 
 and 11 in circumference , taken in part from the Emillan 
 basilic. The columns supporting the grand arch of the 
 tribune were 22 feet high and 5 in diameter , the altars 
 were decorated with 50 porphyry columns which were 
 also injured by the flaines. 
 
 The ancient mosaics have been preserved ; that over 
 the great arch of the principal nave made under S. Leo 
 in 440 , represents our Saviour with the 24 ancients of 
 the apocalypse and the apostles Peter and Paul. On the 
 upper part of the great uave was the series of portraits of 
 the popes from S. Peter to Pius M\l the CCLllI pontiff.
 
 128 Guide of Rome 
 
 Under the high altar which was greatly injured, 
 are parts of the bodies of SS. Peter and Paul. In the tri- 
 bune is a mosaic of the Xlll century. 
 
 Adjoining the basilic is a monastery; its cloister is 
 surrounded with arcades built in 1220 within which are 
 several ancient inscriptions. 
 
 S. PAUL AT THE THREE FOUNTAINS. 
 
 Three churches were raised by the ancient christians 
 on this spot called ad aquas Salvias. That erected where 
 S. Paul suffered martyrdom was restored in 1590 by car- 
 dinal Aldobrandini on the designs of Giacomo della 
 Porta ; it contains the three springs of water which are said 
 to have appeared at the three bounds of the apostle's head. 
 
 In the church dedicated to SS. Vincent and Anaslasius 
 in 624 are frescoes of the XU apostles from the designs 
 of Raphael. 
 
 The third church , dedicated to the Madonna under 
 the denomination of S. Maria Scala Coeli and restored by 
 cardinal Alexander Farnese on the designs of Viguola , is 
 of an octagonal form terminated by a cupola. It contains 
 a mosaic by Zucca a florenline , the first good modern 
 work of the kind. 
 
 PORTA S. PAOLO. 
 
 When the walls of the city were enlarged the present 
 gate was substituted to those called the Trigemina , Mi- 
 nucia, Navalis and Lavernalis; it was rebuilt by Belisarius 
 1 8 feet above the more ancient level. 
 
 ^^ 
 
 PYRAMID OF CAIUS CESTIUS. /"^ 
 
 This sepulchral monument in the form of a quadran- 
 gular pyramid was built in 330 days as is ascertained
 
 Sixth day. 1 29 
 
 by the inscription, and is covered with marble one foot in 
 thickness. Its height is 125 feet, each front is 75 and the 
 mass of the building 2i) feet thick ; the sepulchral chamber 
 is 20 feet long, 12 wide and 15 high. Caius Cestius w^s 
 one of the seven Epulones who prepared the epula or ban- 
 quets for the gods j this ceremony called lectisterniuni 
 was practised in the temples in case of signal victories or 
 of public calamities. 
 
 This pyramid was restored by Alexander Vll when 
 the columns placed at the western angles, the bronze foot 
 now in the Capitol and two pedestals were discovered , 
 bearing the same inscription , and showing that Cestius 
 was a contemporary of Agrippa. 
 
 Near this pyramid is the prolestant burying ground. 
 
 TESTACCIO. 
 
 The origin of this hill which is not mentioned by 
 any of the ancient authors may be attributed to frag- 
 ments of vase of terra cotia called testa in latin. Its height 
 is 163 and its circumference 4503 feet. 
 
 Not far from this hill is an arch called that of S. La- 
 zarus from the adjoining hermitage j it probably formed 
 part of the public granaries placed in this quarter. 
 
 In the neighbouring vigna Cesarini are ruins of the 
 ancient 
 
 NAVALIA. 
 
 So called from the spot where vessels touched and 
 merchandise wiis landed ; other ruins in small tuffo po- 
 lygons of the Vll century of Rome probably belonged 
 to the arsenal. In the middle ages this side of the river 
 was called the Ripa Groeca and that opposite Ripa Romrea.
 
 "130 Guide of Rome 
 
 PONS suBLicrus. 
 
 This bridge , the first thrown over the Tiber under 
 Ancus Martius', is celebrated fur the action of Horalius 
 Codes who alone withstood on it the army of Porsenna. 
 It was afterwards called the iEmilian when rebuilt in 
 stone by ^milius Lepidus , censor under Augustus. 
 Having been restored by Antoninus Pius it was after- 
 wards carried away in the year 780 in an extraordinary 
 inundation of the river. 
 
 The ancient salines or salt warehouses and the porta 
 Trigemina of Tullius were near this bridge. 
 
 THE AVENTINE. 
 
 This hill is in the form of a pentagon 10,800 feet in 
 circumference or nearly 18 stadia the measurement assig- 
 ned to it by Dionysius of Halicarnassus, and is 42 metres 
 above the level of the sea. Several etymologies of its name 
 are given in ancient authors ; ab adventu from the arrival 
 of the people of Latium at the temple of Diana , Avens 
 a river in the territory of Rieti an ancient pelasgian city, 
 and Aventinus, king of Alba, who was buried on the spot. 
 
 It first formed a part of Rome under Ancus Martius 
 who destined it for the residence of the Latin tribes whom 
 he had subjugated , and principally of the inhabitants of 
 Polilorium , Tellene and Ficana , but it is known from 
 Tacitus that it was not enclosed in the Pomscrium before 
 the reign of Claudius. 
 
 The principal edifices raised on the Aventine were 
 the temples of Diana , of Juno Regina , the Bona Dea and 
 Minerva, the armilustrium , the atrium of Liberty, the 
 palaces of Sura and of Trajan , the thermae of Varius and 
 Decius. These edifices have all nearly disappeared.
 
 Sixth day. 1 3 1 
 
 S. MARIA AVENTINA. 
 
 This cluirch was built in the XIII century, restored 
 by Pius V5 und reduced to its present state by cardinal , 
 Rezzouico in 1765 from the designs of Piranesi , who 
 united in its decoration various ornaments of antiquity. 
 As it belongs to tbe knighls of Alalia it is known as the 
 priory ; it commands a line view of Rome and of the en- 
 virons. The temple of the Bona Dea was near this spot 
 on the declivity of the hill. 
 
 S. ALEXIUS. 
 
 Near S. Alexius was the armiluslrum , a name de- 
 rived from the exercises of the soldiers and the games 
 they celebrated in honour of Mars and Tatius. This church 
 is anterior to the IX century ; it became an abbey in 975, 
 was reconsecrated in 1217 and now belongs to the monks 
 of S. Jerome. 
 
 S. SABINA. 
 
 Was built over the house of the father of this saint 
 near the temple of Juno Regina erected by Camillus after 
 the capture of Veii. 
 
 Its foundation is due to an Ulyrian priest named Peter 
 in 425 as is seen from a mosaic inscription over the prin- 
 cipal door. It was restored by several popes and finally 
 by Sixtus V in 1587. It is divided into three naves by 12 
 fluted Corinthian columns on each side. In the chapel of 
 the smallest nave is a master piece of Sassoferrata re- 
 presenting the Virgin of the Rosary, S. Dominic and 
 S. Catherine of Siena.
 
 132 Guide of Rome 
 
 S. PRISCA. 
 
 This church , It is said, was built over the house of 
 S. Prisca who , according to tradition , was converted to 
 the faith and baptized with many others on this spot by 
 S. Peter himself. It contains 24 antique columns, frescoes 
 by Fontebuoni , and a painting by Passignani. 
 
 In the vineyard opposite were the temples of Diana 
 erected by Servius Tullius , and of Minerva Aventinensis. 
 
 S. MARIA IN COSMEDIN. 
 
 Is built on the ruins of the temple of Ceres and Proser- 
 pine. A part of the cella with its large blocks of travertine 
 and 7 columns of the peryslile , 7 feet in circumference, 
 and of the composite order, are s<ill visilDle. According to 
 Tacitus this edifice was consecrated a second lime by 
 Tiberius. 
 
 Adrian I rebuilt this church in 782 which is alsr 
 ealled the Bocca della Verita , from a large piece of round 
 marble , in the form of a mask , having its eyes and mouth 
 wide open , placed under the portico. 
 
 The interior of this church is divided into three naves 
 by 12 antique columns and the pavement is formed of 
 the ancient mosaic called opus Alexandrinum. It contains 
 also two ambones , a marble pontifical seat, an image of 
 the B. Virgin brought from Greece , and under the altar 
 an urn of egyptian granite filled with relics. 
 
 -. / TEMPLE OF VESTA. 
 
 It has already been observed that the temple of Vesta 
 erected by Numa in which the Palladium was preserved, 
 was situated in the forum at the foot of the Palatine. The
 
 Sixth day. 133 
 
 present temple like tliose that existed in each curia , ap- 
 pears to have been restored in the second century of our 
 era j 19 columns of while marble forming a circumference 
 of 170 feet constitute the exterior portico j their height 
 including base and capital is 36 feet , their diameter 3 , 
 that of the cella 36. 
 
 The temple of Fortuna Yirilis now called S. Rlaria 
 Egiziaca was built by Servius Tullius the sixth king of 
 Rome and was changed into a church in 972. 
 
 lis form is that of an oblong square with four front 
 and seven side columns of the jonic order, twenty eight 
 feet high. They support an entablature ornamented with 
 festoons , genii , candelabra and bulls heads. 
 
 Opposite this is the 
 
 HOUSE OF NICHOLAS DE RIENZO. 
 
 Presenting a capricious assemblage of antique frag- 
 ments of difterent periods , a specimen of roman archi- 
 tecture of the XI century. It Jjelonged to Nicholas , the 
 son of Crescentius , whose family was then powerful at 
 Rome. Over the ancient door which is now closed , is an 
 inscription written in the XU century in latin rhyme, in- 
 dicating « that Nicholas the son of Crescentius and of 
 Theodora gave this house to his son David». It Is said that 
 in 1347 it fell into the possession of the celebrated Cola 
 di Rienzo , the Roman tribune , from whom it derives its 
 present appellation. 
 
 PALATINE BRIDGE. 
 
 During the first six centuries of her existence Rome 
 had only two bridges, the Sublician and the Palatine; the 
 latter so called from the neighbouring Palatine hill was 
 finished under the censors Scipio Africanus and Lucius 
 MummiuS'
 
 134 Guide of Rome 
 
 It was restored by Gregory IX in the thirteenth and 
 by Julius 111 in the sixteenth century, having sufl'ered in 
 an inundation under Gregory Xlll it was rebuilt in 1575, 
 but part of it was carried away by the waters in 1598j 
 it has not since been repaired. 
 
 At the foot of this bridge the view embraces the 
 Aventine with the grotto of Cacus , the remains of the 
 Sublician bridge , the Prata Murcia , the situation of the 
 camp of Porsenna , the mouth of the cloaca , the island 
 of Esculapius , the Fabrician bridge, that of Gratian and 
 the Janiculura , the site of many of the principal facts of 
 Roman history from the kings to the decline of the west- 
 ern empire.
 
 (glffaiDS2 ®® 3a©IL33 
 
 SEVEN Til DAY 
 
 FROM THE FABRIC! AN TO THE JELIAN BRIDGE. 
 
 X rastevere, on tlie right bank of the Tiber, was added 
 to the city by Ancus Martius who fortified it in order to 
 repel the incursions of the Etruscans. Its first inhabitants 
 were the people of Latium conquered by that king. 
 
 The Fabrician bridge now Qualtro Capi , was built, 
 as is proved from Dio and the inscriptions over the arches 
 by Fabricius, curator viarum, in the 690 year of Rome. 
 It is formed of three arches and leads to the 
 
 ISLAND OF THE TIBER. 
 
 After the expulsion of the last Tarquin the senate 
 granted all his property to the people, who, as ancient 
 story reports, threw into the river the wheat grown on 
 his fields , but the enormons mass being sufficiently dense 
 to resist the current formed a small island which was 
 afterwards fortified and inhabited* 
 
 In the year 461 of Rome , when the plague raged 
 with violence in the city, the senate sent deputies to the 
 temple of Esculapius at Epidaurus , who returned with 
 a serpent which disappeared in this island. A temple was 
 erected to Esculapius on the spot now occupied by the 
 church of
 
 136 Guide of Rome 
 
 S. BARTOLOMEO. 
 
 The interior is divided into three naves , by 24 co- 
 lumns of granite, said to have belonged to the ancient 
 temple. The island contained also the temple of Faun and 
 Lycaonian Jupiter. 
 
 PONTE GRAZIA.N0. 
 
 This bridge , now called S. Bartolomeo , was built 
 as is ascertained from the inscriptions on the parapets, in 
 the year 467 of the present era, by the emperors Yalen- 
 tinian Valens and Gratian. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF S. CECILIA. 
 
 Occupying the site of the house of that saint was 
 consecrated in 250 by Urban I , restored in 821 by Pas- 
 qual I , and given by Clement Ylll to the Benedictine 
 nuns who annexed to it an extensive convent. The large 
 marble vase in the court is one of those called canthari 
 which were placed in the courts of the christian churches 
 and served for the ablution of the faithful. 
 
 The church has three naves ; over the high altar is a 
 baldaquin , supported by four aquilaine columns , under 
 it is a beautiful statue of S. Cecily , by Maderno ; the pa- 
 vement is of alabaster and precious stones, aniique mosaics 
 adorn the tribune. Near the chapel of the Crucifix is a 
 chamber painted by Paul Brill, on which S. Cecily is said 
 to have suffered martyrdom. 
 
 RIPA GRANDE. 
 
 The port and custom house were built bylnnocentXII 
 in 1 692 for the reception of merchandize brought by ves- 
 sels which ascend the river a distance of 24 miles from 
 the sea.
 
 Seventh day. 1 3 7 
 
 In the vicinity , afterwards called Praia Mutia from 
 the deeds of Mulius Screvola , Porsenna had placed his 
 camp, and Clelia with her companions swam over the 
 Tiber when escaping from the Etruscans. 
 
 S. MICHELE. 
 
 This establishment was founded by Innocent XII 
 in 1686, to receive and instruct poor children in the me- 
 chanical and fine arts, and offer an asylum to male and 
 female invalids. It contains a woollen and silk manufac- 
 tory, and one for tapestry in the style of the Gobelins. 
 
 PORTA PORTESE. 
 
 This gate was substituted in 1643 by Urban VIII, to 
 the ancient porta Portuensis , built by Arcadius and Ho- 
 norius in 402 when they restored the walls of the city. 
 
 The church of S. Francis was given to S. Francis 
 in 1229 and was restored by cardinal Pallavicini on the 
 designs of Rossi. In the chapel to the right of the high 
 altar is a fine painting of the Madonna , child and S. Anne 
 by Baciccio. 
 
 After passing the churches of the 40 martyrs and 
 of S. Callixtus wc arrive at that of 
 
 S. MARIA IN TRASTEVERE. 
 
 It is said that the ancient Taberna Meritoria, a kind 
 of asylum for soldiers after a certain period of service , 
 was situated on this spot , and that pope Calixtus in 224 
 obtained leave of the emperor Alexander Severus to erect 
 here an oratory which was the first public place of chris- 
 tian worship at Rome. It was restored by S. Julius in 340, 
 and afterwards enlarged by Innocent II , Nicholas Y and
 
 138 Guide of Rome 
 
 Clement XI wlio added the present portico which contains 
 many ancient inscriptions. 
 
 The interior is divided info three naves by 21 large 
 granite colimins , exclusive of the four supporting a rich 
 arcliilrave , some having an jonic , some a Corinthian ca- 
 pital. The jonic capitals are highly wrought, and as they 
 contain figures of Harpocrates, of Isis and of JSerapis, they 
 probably belonged to a temple dedicated to those egyptian 
 divinities. The pavement, like that of other ancient chur- 
 ches J is a mosaic of porphyry, serpentine and other spe- 
 cies of marble. 
 
 On the ceiling is a beautiful painting of the Assump- 
 tion by Domeuichino who , in the last chapel of the right 
 nave painted also a child scattering flowers. The high 
 altar is isolated , and its baldacliin is supported by four 
 porphyry columns. The mosaics of the tribune , of the 
 year 1145, represent our Saviour, the Virgin and several 
 saints 5 those immediately below representing the Virgin 
 and the twelve apostles are more modern. 
 
 Among the sepulchral monuments in this church are 
 those of Laufranco the painter , of Bottari and Nardini 
 (wo celebrated literary characters. 
 
 S. GRISOGONO. 
 
 In 1623 this ancient church was restored by cardinal 
 Scipio Borghese who added the portico supported by four 
 red granite columns. The three naves of the interior are 
 separated by granite columns of the jonic order taken 
 from ancient monuments. The baldachin is supported by 
 four of a rare quality of alabaster. On the ceiling is a copy 
 of S. Grysogonus carried up to heaven from the original 
 of Guercino.
 
 Seventh day. 1 39 
 
 S. MARIA DELLA SCALA. 
 
 Cardinal Cosiino in 1592 erccled this church in order 
 to place in it a miraculous image of the B. Virgin taken 
 from an adjoining house. The architecture of the front is 
 by Wascherino ; that of the interior by Francesco dl Vol- 
 terra. On the grand altar is a tabernacle formed of pre- 
 cious stones and decorated with sixteen columns of oriental 
 jasper. The fresco painting of the RIadonna in the choir 
 is by the cavalier d'Arpino. 
 
 THE JANICULUJVr. 
 
 So called from Janus , a king of the Aborigenes , 
 who built a city opposite to that of Saturn on the Capi- 
 toline ; this hill was comprised in the city under Ancus 
 Rlartius. Livy asserts that two sarcophagi were found at 
 the foot of the Janiculum one said to contain the body of 
 Numa Pompiiius and the other books j these alone were 
 found seven in latin and seven in greek composed by that 
 king. They were burnt by order of the senate as contain- 
 ing pernicious doctrines. 
 
 S. PIETRO IN MONTORIO. 
 
 y ^ ~ 
 
 Towards the close of the XV century this church 
 was rebuilt by Pintelli at the expense of Ferdinand IV 
 king of Spain ; it was restored under Pius VII. 
 
 In the first chapel on the right is the Ilagellatiou of 
 our Saviour painted by Sebastian del Piombo and designed 
 by Michael Angelo. The conversion of S. Paul is by Va- 
 sarij over the high altar was the Transfiguration now in 
 the museum of the Vatican; the statues of SS. Peter and Paul 
 are by Daniel di Volterra and Leonardo of Milan his pupil.
 
 MO Guide of Rome 
 
 On a spot adjoining this church, where according to 
 an ancient tradition , S. Peter was crucified , is a small 
 round temple with 1 6 columns of grey granite designed 
 by Bramante. 
 
 / THE FONTANA PAOLINA. 
 
 Is the largest of the city and supplies the greatest 
 body of water which is brought in part from the lakes of 
 Bracciano and Martignano. Between six jonic columns of 
 red granite are five niches for the passage of the waters. 
 It was raised by Paul V in 1612 with materials taken 
 from the forum of Nerva. 
 
 The porta S. Pancrazio, the ancient Janiculensis, was 
 rebuilt by Urban Ylll when he surrounded Trastevere 
 with walls. 
 
 On the right of the Aurellan way is a villa built in 
 the form of a ship^ in the upper gallery 87 feet long and 
 14 wide are paintings by Pielro di Cortona , Allegrini 
 and Grimaldi. 
 
 The church of S. Pancrace was founded by S. Symma- 
 chus in 500, over the catacombs of Calepodius, celebrated 
 in ecclesiastical hislory and in the acts of the martyrs. 
 
 The villa Pamphilj , now belonging to the Doria fa- 
 mily, was laid out under Innocent X by Falda and by 
 Algardi who built the palace. It contains groves , exten- 
 sive alleys , a lake, water falls , fountains decorated with 
 antique statues and has reliefs. In a hemicycle is a marble 
 Faun that plays on the flute and an organ set in motion 
 by water. 
 
 In the palace are several antique busts, has reliefs, 
 the statues of Euterpe, Marsyas and of an Hermaphrodite} 
 several tombs and columbaria well preserved , with nu- 
 merous interesting inscriptions , have been found of late 
 years and are preserved in the villa.
 
 Seventh day. 1 41 
 
 "rZ: i^^ PALAZZO CORSINI. ^' 
 
 This palace situated in the Yia Lungara , one of the 
 most splendid palaces of Rome , contains a valuable col- 
 lection of paintings the principal of which are in the first 
 room. The Ecce homo^ a S. Jerome and a Samaritan , by 
 Guercino, Venus at her toilet by Albano , Luther and 
 Catherine Boren by Holbein , a holy Family by Garofalo, 
 a presentation at the temple by Paul Veronese , and the 
 portrait of Philip II by Titian. 
 
 The second room contains a S. Jerome, Paul III, 
 and a chace by Rubens , a Noli me tangere of Baroccio , 
 the crucifixion of S. Peter , a S. John Baptist , the He- 
 rodias of Guido , an Annunciation of Buonarotti , Madonnas 
 by Sasso Ferrata and Andrea del Sarto. 
 
 The third room the Saviour by Carlo Dolcl , an Al- 
 bano , aSchidone,a Madonna of Innocenzo d' Imola , a 
 S. John and Madonna by Guido. 
 
 In the fourth room are portraits bv Holbein , Van- 
 dyk , a Doge of Venice by Baroccio , two Cardinals by 
 Domenlcbino, Innocent X by Diego Velasquez , a Gior- 
 gione , the sons of Charles V, Ferdinand I and Philip II, 
 by Titian. 
 
 In the fifth room is a view of the Borromaan isles 
 by Vanvitelli , a S. Sebastian of Rubens, two battles by 
 Borgognone, and the celebrated Madonna and child by 
 Murillo. 
 
 In the last room is the giant Titius by Salvator Rosa. 
 
 The library is particularly rich in manuscripts and 
 books printed in the XV century. 
 
 At the end of the gardens and on the rise of the 
 Janiculum is a villa belonging to the palace, raised on the 
 spot formerly occupied by the villa of Martial.
 
 1 42 Guide of Rome 
 
 VILLA LANTE. 
 
 According to Vasari , Giulio Romano built this house 
 for monsignor Turini, the intimate fiiend of Raphael and 
 one of the most distinguished prelates of the courts of 
 Leo X and Clement YII. 
 
 It formerly contained frescoes by Giulio and his pu- 
 pils which were engraved by Marc'Antonio , Agostino the 
 Venitian and other celebrated artists. These frescoes are 
 now in the villa Borghese. 
 
 After the death of monsignor Turini the villa passed 
 into other hands. During the last century it belonged to 
 the Lante family who sold it in 1824 to prince Borghese. 
 It now belongs to the nuns of the Sacre Cceur de Jesus. 
 
 ^^ ^ — FARNESINA. 
 
 The Farnesina palace was built by Agostino Chigi 
 a banker and patron of the fine arts under Leo X, on the 
 designs of Peruzzi. In the XVI century it fell into the pos- 
 session of the Farnese and at the extinction of that house 
 in 1751 it became the property of the reigning family 
 of Naples. 
 
 This palace is interesting for the lightness and ele- 
 gance of its architecture and-os containnig the fable of 
 Cupid and Pysche painted it>.fresco from the original de- 
 signs of Raphael and under his direction. The subject 
 taken from Apuleius is distributed as follows : the as- 
 sembly of the gods with Venus and Cupid inform Ju- 
 piter of the projected nuptials, Mercury presents Pysche 
 with the cup of ambrosia , the pledge of immortality ; 
 the nuptials of Cupid and Psyche celebrated in Olympus 
 and the general banquet of the gods.
 
 Seventh day. 143 
 
 Around the ceilinp; ten triangular paintings repre- 
 sent the events of the fable tjll the period of the nuptials. 
 
 The first on tlie left of the entrance is Venus or- 
 dering her son to inspire Pysche with a passion for the 
 vilest of mortals as a punishment for having dared to 
 fall in love with him. 
 
 2. Cupid presents Pysche to the three Graces , the 
 companions of Yenus ; this painting is chiefly the work 
 of Raphael. 
 
 5. Venus quitting Juno and Ceres who interpose in 
 favour of Pysche; in the following picture the goddess, 
 in a moment of irritation mounts lier car drawn by 
 four doves and directs her course to Jupiter whom she 
 solicits to send Mercury in pursuit of Pysche; In the sixth 
 painting Mercury publishes the orders of the father of 
 the gods, and the recompense promised by Venus for the 
 person of Pysche who returns from the infernal regions 
 borne by three yomig Cupids; she presents to the goddess, 
 the vase of paint given by Proserpine to appease her anger; 
 Cupid complains to Jupiter of the cruelty of his mother and 
 obtains permission to marry Pysche who is conducted to 
 heaven for the nuptials by Mercury. Near these paintings 
 are the genii of the gods, or young Cupids, bearing their 
 attributes in triumph , in allusion to the power of love 
 which subdues all things. 
 
 In the adjoining chamber is Galatea carried by two 
 dolphins preceded by a Nereid , and followed by another 
 carried by a Triton , the work of Raphael. 
 
 The frescoes on the ceiling represent Diana on her car 
 drawn by oxen and the fable of Medusa by Daniel di Vol- 
 terra and Sebastian del Piombo. The fine colossal head by 
 Michael Angelo, existing in this chamber, served as an 
 occupation while he was writing for Daniel his pupil , 
 and was not intended as has been asserted as a criticism 
 on the work of Raphael.
 
 144 Guide of Rome 
 
 The rooms on the first story contain frescoes of Pe- 
 ruzzi , of the school of Raphael and of Sodoma. 
 
 Along the Yia Lungara are the churches of S. Gia- 
 como , of S. Croce della Penitenza, of the Yisilation and 
 of S. Francis de Sales, all containing paintings on various 
 religious subjects. 
 
 S. Maria Regina Coeli was built in 1654 by Anne 
 Colonna who , at the death of her husband , retired to 
 the monastery annexed to this church. It received its appel- 
 lation from the anthem Regina Cceli Icetare alleluia which 
 the Carmelite Nuns are obliged to sing every four hours. 
 
 The palazzo Salviati was built on the designs of Baccio 
 d'Agnolo a contemporary of Raphael who with the distin- 
 guished artists of that period used to assemble in his 
 studio. At the extinction of the Salviati family this pa- 
 lace came into the possession of government who placed 
 here its archives. Since 1820 the grounds have been re- 
 duced to a botanic garden dependent on the University. 
 
 The church of S. Onofrio was built in 1439 for the 
 hermits of the congregation of S. Jerome some acts of 
 whose life have been painted in fresco by Domenichino. 
 The beautiful painting of the Madonna and child sur- 
 rounded with angels immediately over the door is also 
 by that celebrated artist. The convent of S. Onofrio was 
 the residence of Tasso in his latter days and here he died 
 in 15955 h'S tomb is on the left in entering the church. 
 In the convent is a Madonna said to be painted by Leo- 
 nardo da Vinci. 
 
 THE PORTA S. SPIRITO. 
 
 Was raised by Leo lY in 850 when he surrounded 
 the Yatican with walls, and under Paul III this gate was 
 rebuilt on the designs of Sangallo. Its name is derived 
 from the adjoining church and hospital of Santo Spirilo, 
 
 1
 
 Seventh day. 145 
 
 in wliicli IS an estalilishmcnt for lunatics founded by B^ 
 nedict XIII and enlarged under Leo XII. 
 
 The ponte Sislo, the ancient pons Janiculensis, was 
 restored by Sixtus IV in 1474} the fountain opposite the 
 Via Giulia placed here by Paul V on the designs of John 
 Fontaiia, is composed of two jonic columns supporting an 
 attic and a niche through which the waters fall into a 
 large basin. 
 
 The church of the Trinita de' Pellegrini built in 1 61 4, 
 contains over the principal altar a painting of the holy 
 Trinity by Guido , one of the best works of that artist. 
 In the adjoining building pilgrims are received, and con- 
 valescents admitted from the hosptials of the city. 
 
 The interior of S. Carlo a' Calinari is of the Corin- 
 thian order and possesses several paintings of merit. One 
 by Pielro di Corlona represents S.Charles in a procession j 
 four cardinal virtues under the dome are by Domenichino 
 and the death of S. Anne by Andrea Sacchi. 
 
 The Cancelleria , a palace destined for the residence 
 of the vice chancellor of the church , was commenced by 
 cardinal Mezzarotta , and finished under Sixtus IV. 
 
 The architectural designs were given by Bramante 
 who surrounded the court with a double portico sup- 
 ported by 44 granite columns , taken from the portico of 
 Pompey. The stones of the Colosseum , and the marbles 
 of the arch of Gordian were employed in the construction 
 of this palace. 
 
 The adjoining church of S. Lorenzo in Damaso built 
 in 384 in honour of S. Laurence the martyr , was also 
 restored on the designs of Bramante. It contains the statue 
 of S. Cai lo Borromco by Maderno and the tomb of An- 
 nibal Caro , a celebrated poet of the XVI century. 
 
 A small edifice in a neighbouring street, called the 
 Farnesina , was built by Rnpliael. 
 
 10
 
 146 Guide of Rome 
 
 In the piazza Farnese are two large granite basins 1 ijz 
 feet high and 17 long , found iu the baths of Caracalla. 
 
 THE PALAZZO FARNESE. 
 
 / 
 
 Was commenced by Paul III on the designs of An- 
 tonio Sangallo , and finished under cardinal Alexander 
 Farnese by Michael Angelo Bonarolti. This edifice, built 
 with blocks taken from the ColosscLun, is of a square formj 
 the court has three orders of architecture. 
 
 On the first story is the gallery of Annibal Caracci , 
 containing his best compositions. 
 
 In the centre of the ceiling is the triumph of Bacchus 
 and Ariadne ; the golden car of Bacchus is drawn by two 
 tigers; that of Ariadne in silver , by two white goatsj both 
 cars are surrounded with Fauns , Satyrs , Bacchantes and 
 preceded by Silenus. 
 
 The round pictures represent Pan offering to Diana 
 the wool of his goats, and Rlercury presenting the golden 
 apple to Paris. 
 
 In the large pictures Galatea is carried on the seas 
 amid a troop of Nymphs, Cupids and Tritons \ Aurora on 
 her car carries off Cephalus ; Polyphemus endeavours to 
 charm Galatea by the sounds of his pipe , and not suc- 
 ceeding hurls a rock at Acis who carries her away. 
 
 The four squares represent Jupiter receiving Juno in 
 the nuptial couch; Diana caressing Eudymion , while two 
 Cupids concealed in a bush enjoy their victory over her. 
 Hercules in the dress of Jole , playing on the tabor, and 
 Jole covered with the skin of the nemrcan lion leaning on 
 the club of Hercules. Anchises detaching a buskin from 
 the foot of "Venus. Over the figure of Polyphemus , 
 Apollo carries away Hyacinlhus j Jupiter, under the form 
 of an eagle, Ganymede.
 
 Seventh day. 147 
 
 The eight medallions, of a bronze colour , represent 
 Xeander being drowned in the Hellespont j Syrinx meta- 
 morphosed into a reed ; Hermaphrodite surprized by Sal- 
 macis ; Cupid tying a Satyr to a tree ; Boreas carrying 
 away Orilhea; Eurydice called back to the regions below 
 and the rape of Europa. 
 
 Over ihc niches and windows Arion is mounted on 
 a dolphin ; Prometheus animates his statues , Hercules 
 kills the dragon of the Hesperides; the same hero delivers 
 Prometheus after striking with a dart the vulture that 
 devoured his liver j Icarus falls into the sea j the preg- 
 nancy of Callisto is discovered in the bath ; the same 
 Nymph is changed into a bear 5 Phoebus receives the lyre 
 from Mercury. 
 
 Domenichino has represented over the door a young 
 girl caressing an unicorn , the device of the Farnese family. 
 
 At the ends of the gallery are Andromeda attached 
 to the rock in presence of her desolate parents and Perseus 
 combating the dragon; Perseus petrifyii'g Phineus and his 
 companions with the head of ftledusa. 
 
 lu the other rooms are frescoes by Daniel di Volterra, 
 Salviali , Zuccari and Giorgio Vasari. 
 
 In a cabinet of the paHice Annibal Ciuacci has also 
 painted Hercules sustaining a celestial globe j Ulysses de- 
 livering his companions from Circe and the Syrens ; 
 Anapus and Anaphinomus, saving their parents from the 
 Qames of Etna, Perseus cutting olf the head of Medusa j 
 Hercules fighting egainst the nenja^an lion. The chiaroscuro 
 ornaments that separate these subjects are also by Annibal 
 Caracci , and arc so finely executed that they might pa^js 
 .as altirilievi. 
 
 On the first story of ihe Spada palace is the colossal 
 
 statue of Pompey found in the Via Leutari near the Can- 
 
 i -ctjllaria. It is supposed to have been placed in the curia uf
 
 148 Guide of Rome 
 
 Pompey situated near his theatre, and lo be the samestatne 
 at the base of which Ccesar fell. 
 
 The gallery of this palace contains amongst other 
 pictures a David with the head of Goliath , a Magdalen 
 by Guercinoj a Roman charity by Annibal Caracci ; a 
 Judilh and a Lucretia by Guido j Christ disputing with 
 the doctors by Leonardo da Yinci : the market of Naples 
 and the revolt of Masaniello , by Michael Angelo delle 
 Bambocciate , a visitation of S. Elizabeth by Andrea del 
 Sarto; two landscapes by Salvator Rosaj several portraits 
 by Titian , Vandyk and Tintoretto. 
 
 The church of S. Thomas was given in 1575 by Gre- 
 gory Vm to the Bolognese who rebuilt and dedicated ft 
 lo S. John the Evangelist and S. Petronius. The celebrated 
 painting of tlie B. Virgin and of these two saints by Do- 
 menichino, has disappeared. 
 
 S. MARIA CALLED DELLA MORTE. 
 
 This church was built by a fraternity in 1575 whose 
 object was lo render the last duties to those who were 
 found dead in the campagna of Rome. It is dedicated to 
 the Virgin of prayer , the holy Sacrament being exposed 
 during 40 hours the first Sunday of each mouth , a pious 
 exercise , now performed in all other churches , alter- 
 nately throughout the year. 
 
 Tlirs cluirch was restored by Clement VII , and con- 
 tains a holy Family by Masucci ; a S. Michael by a pupil 
 of Raphael 5 S. Jullaua Falconieri by Ghezzi and frescoes 
 by Lanfranc. 
 
 The Falconieri palace, the residence of the princes 
 of that ancient house, was rebuilt in the XVU century 
 on the desli^ns of Dorromiui. 
 
 S. Calerlna di Siena, built by the Slenese in 1526 
 contaiiis frescoes by della Vite , a pupil of Raphael} the
 
 Seventh day. 149 
 
 principal allar lins a painting by Jerome della Gcnga, the 
 figure over the door is by Passeri wbo wrote the history 
 of llie artists of his time. 
 
 S. JSPIRITO OF THE NEAPOLITANS. 
 
 Tliis national cburch was built in 157'i, and restored 
 by Carlo Fonlana and Cosimo, a neapolilan. In the interior 
 are a miracle of S. Francis de Paola by Lamberti, a mar- 
 tyrdom of S. Gennaro i)y Luca Giordano ; a S. Thomas 
 Aquinas by IMuratori. The cupola is by Passeri. 
 
 THE ORATORY OF SS. PETER AND PAUL 
 DEL GONFALONE. 
 
 In 1264 S. Bonavenlure instituted the firsl fiaternily 
 of laymen in Rome, and gave it the name of the Gon- 
 fajone or banner. On the walls of this oratory several facts 
 of the new testament were painted in fresco by Agresti 
 and others who painted also the allar piece. 
 
 In the Via Giulia is the church of S. Maria del Suf- 
 fragio, designed by Ralnaldi. It contains works of Nalali, 
 Ghezzi , Troppa , Chiaii , Bcnnnschi , Daniel the Fleming 
 and oilier arlists. 
 
 In the little church of S. Faustina , erected on the 
 spot selected Uy Julius 11 for a palace for the civil and 
 criminal liibunal of Rome, is a picliiee of the blind man 
 cured by our Saviour, said to be Wuziano. 
 
 S. GIOVANNI De' FIORENTINI. 
 
 A company of Florentines erected this church in 1 588 
 on ihe designs of Giacomo della Porta ; the front was raised 
 by Alexander Galilei , by order of Clement XII. The in- 
 terior is divided into three naves , ihe painting in the
 
 150 Guide of Rome 
 
 chapel of S. Jerome is by Sante Titi ; that in the side 
 chapel by Cigoli ; the martyrdom of SS. Cosmas and 
 Damian by Salvalor Rosa. The altar piece is decorated 
 wilh marble on the designs of Pietro di Cortona, and at 
 the expense of the Falconieri family : the group over the 
 altar representing the baptism of Christ is by Raggi ; that 
 of Charily by Guidi ; the tomb of monsignor Corsini is by 
 Algardi , that of AcciRJuoli by Ferrata. The chapel of the 
 Crucifix was painted by Lanfranco. 
 
 VATICAN BRIGDE. 
 
 The period of the foundation of this bridge is un- 
 certain ; it appears that in the V century it was in a state 
 of ruin. The remains of walls of the middle ages still seen 
 in the river , are founded on the ruins of the ancient 
 bridge a part of which was demolished in 1812 in order 
 to ameliorate the navigation of the river.
 
 I 

 
 EIGHTH DAY 
 
 FROM THE MLIAN BRIDGE TO MONTE MARIO. 
 
 JL he Vatican hill forms ihe prolungalion of ihe Jani- 
 culum ; its appellation is most probably derived from va- 
 ticinia^ or oracles delivered here at the period of the 
 domination of the elrusco-veians. In ancient limes it was 
 not included wilhin the city, in the XVI century, under 
 Sixtus V it formed one of the 14 divisions. 
 
 ^LIAN BRIDGE OR PONTE S. ANGELO» 
 
 This bridge was built by the emperor Adrian to 
 serve as a communication with his mausoleum and circus. 
 It consists of three central and four smaller anhes : it was 
 restored by Nicholas V and by Clement VII, who erected 
 on it the statues of SS. Peter and Paul. 
 
 THE MAUSOLEUM OF ADRIAN. 
 
 Built on the model of that of Augustus for the sepul- 
 ture of the emperor and the members of his family is 200 
 feel in diameter, the exterior, according to Procopins , 
 was covered with parian marble, and decorated with pi- 
 lasters supporting an entablature. At each angle of the 
 square base were groups of men and horses : the round 
 top was covered with statues. 
 
 In the decline of the empire this monument was used 
 as a means of defense of the city : Procopius adds that its
 
 1 52 Guide of Rome 
 
 ornaments were ruined by the Greeks, who fortifiecl[them«- 
 selves here against the Goths, and broke the statues to 
 throw them against the besiegers. 
 
 In the tenth century it was fortified by Crescenlius, 
 a noble roman, and successively under several popes from 
 Boniface IX to Urban Ylll. It is now called Forte S. An- 
 gelo from the statue of the archangel Michael placed on 
 its summit ; it communicates with the Vatican palace by a 
 covered arch way. 
 
 SANTO SPIRITO. 
 
 This hospital , the most extensive of ihe city, re- 
 ceives the sick , the insane and foundlings. It was founded 
 by Innocent III in 11 98 . It contains a cabinet of anatomy. 
 The adjoining church was rebuilt in 1558 on the designs 
 of Sangallo. 
 
 S. MARIA IN TRASPONTINA. 
 
 Was restored in 1563 : there was formerly near the 
 baptismal font a pyramid supposed, in the middle ages , 
 to have been the tomb of Romulus, or of Scipio Emilian 
 the conqueror of Carthage. The marble that covered it was 
 applied by pope Dono I to pave the atrium of S. Peter's. 
 
 In the small piazza Scossacavalli is a palace of the 
 architecture of Bramante now belonging to the Torlonia 
 family by whom it has been greatly embellished. 
 
 PIAZZA S. PIETRO. 
 
 The area 1075 in length forming this piazza may be 
 dlvded into three sections: the first 216 feet long, and 
 204 wide leads to the principal piazza , of a regular el- 
 Irptic form, bounded by a colossal colonnade of the doric 
 
 I
 
 Eighth day. 153 
 
 order, formed by four rows of columns on each side, the 
 central road being large enough to admit two carriages 
 abreast. These porticos, 56 feet wide and 61 high contain 
 284 columns and support a balustrade on which are pla- 
 ced 192 colossal statues 11 1/2 feet high. The second 
 section of the piazza is 738 feel in length and 588 in 
 breadth. The third section immediately preceding the ba- 
 silic is a regular trapezium , and serves as an atrium to 
 the church ; its length is 296 and its breadth 536 feet. 
 
 Near the obelisk are two fountains by Carlo Maderno 
 each raising to a height of 9 feet a body of water which 
 falls into a round granite basin 50 feet in circumference 
 
 BASILIC OF s* Peter's. 
 
 This mngnificcnt temple is situated in the Vatican 
 territory of the ancients from which it derives its deno- 
 mination. In this direction were the gardens and circus 
 a Nero where the massacre of the christians related by 
 Tacitus , took place. Their remains were interred in a 
 grotto near the circus and S. Peter having soon after suf- 
 fered martyidom his disciple Mark conveyed his body to 
 the same spot were an oratory was raised over his tomb 
 by pope S. Anacletus. In 526 Constanline laid the foun- 
 dations of the church, divided into live naves, which 
 existed till the XV century. 
 
 Nicholas V, desirous of erecting in honour of the 
 prince of the apostles a temple equal in splendour to that 
 of Solomon , commenced the tribune in 1450, which was 
 continued by Paul II. In 1505 Julius II , after having 
 examined the designs of the most skilful architects, se- 
 lected that of Bramanic, who devised the grand cupola. 
 
 After the death of Julius II and of Bramante, Leo X 
 confided the works to Sangallo , to f i a Giocondo and fi- 
 nally to Raphael, and al his decease, to Peruzzi of Siena, 
 
 lO'^
 
 1 54 Guide of Rome 
 
 who converted the latin into a greek cross and completed 
 the tribune under Clement "VII. 
 
 His successor Paul III selected as architect Antonio 
 Sangallo , whose plan consisted in readopting the latin 
 cross, according to the design of Bramante. At the death 
 of Sangallo, the direction of the works was entrusted to 
 Michael Angelo Bonarotli who resumed the plan of Pe- 
 ruzzi , enlarged the tribune , the arms of the trans%'erse 
 naves , gave a new design for the cupola and intended to 
 build a front similar to that of the Pantheon. After Michael 
 Angelo, Vignola raised the two lateral cupolas; and 
 Giacomo della Porta completed the central one. 
 
 Under Paul V the woik was finished by Carlo Ma- 
 derno , who raised the front and portico , and abandoned 
 the plans of Bonarotti for those of Beamante by giving the 
 temple the form of a latin cross. 
 
 Finally under Alexander Vil the portico of the piazza 
 was constructed by Bernini , and under Pius VI the sa- 
 cristy was added on the plans of Marchionni. 
 
 Painting, sculpture, mosaics, the art of melting 
 bronze, gilding, carving, all the arts have contributed to 
 embellish this temple the most splendid not only of Ron>e 
 but of the whole world. 
 
 The frout is composed of eight columns , 8 feet 5 
 inches in diameter , 88 in height including the base and 
 capital , 4 Corinthian pilasters an entablature and altic 
 terminated by a balustrade supporting 13 slalues 17 feet 
 high , representing our Saviour and the apostles. The 
 height fioin the pavement to the top of the cross over 
 the cupola is 424 feel. 
 
 The portico is 439 feet in lenglh and A"] in breadth ; 
 at one end is the statue of Charlemagne by Cornncchini , 
 at the other that of Constantine by Bernini. The pilasters 
 lining the portico support an entablature and a roof 62 feet 
 liigh covered with gilt stucco, over the great door is the
 
 Eighth day. 1 55 
 
 mosaic of Giotto a florenline of the XIII century, repre- 
 senting the hoat of S. Peter. 
 
 The door with a bronze cross called the porta santa, 
 is opened only once every 25 years at the period of the 
 jubilee. The has reliefs of the principal gate allude to the 
 martyrdom of SS. Peter and Paul : to the coronation of 
 the emperor SIgismond by Eugenius IV, and to the au- 
 dience granted by that pontiff to the envoys of sundry 
 eastern nations. 
 
 The interior , in the form of a latin cross , is divided 
 into three naves by pilasters supporting four large arches 
 on each side; to each are attached two others, fluted and 
 Corinthian 8 feet broad , 77 high over which is an enta- 
 blature of 18 feet; in the niches are marble statues, 
 15 feet in height , of the founders of religious orders. The 
 counter pilasters uniting under the arches have medallions 
 the portraits of different popes ; the roof is covered with 
 gilt stucco , and the pavement is formed of the finest qua- 
 lily of marble. 
 
 At the end of ihe great nave , raised on a pedestal is 
 the statue of S. Peter whose foot is kissed by the faithful in 
 veneration of the prince of the apostles. The confession of 
 S. Peter or tomb , containing parts of his and of S. Paul's 
 bodies is surrounded with a circular marble balustrade on 
 which 112 lamps are continually burning. A double stair 
 case leads to the interior which is decorated with marble, 
 festoons and angels of gilt bronze. On each side of the 
 door are the statues of SS. Peter and Paul , in an oblong 
 niche is the confession , a part of the ancient oratory of 
 S. Anacletus. 
 
 In the statue of Pius YI , who was burled near the 
 tomb of S. Peter, Canova has represented that pontiff 
 praying at the altar of the confession. 
 
 The altar placed under the cupola is isolated, and 
 turned to the east according to ancient custom. The bal-
 
 1 56 Guide of Rome 
 
 dachin erected in 1633 by Bernini is supported by four 
 irregular columns of the composite order, of gilt bronze, 
 34 feet high: at the angles are four angels, in the centre 
 is a globe supporting the cross. The total height of the 
 baldachin is 86 feet. 
 
 THE CUPOLA. 
 
 Bramante having conceived the idea of erecting the 
 largest cupola in the world , formed for its support four 
 pillars 206 feet in circumference. In his designs for this 
 church Michael Angelo planned a double cupola ; bet- 
 ween the walls, which are 22 feet thick, a stair case leads 
 to the ball. 
 
 The diameter of the cupola is 130 feet, the height of 
 the pillars 166, of the cupola 155 , of the lantern 53, of 
 the pedestal of the ball 29 i^a, of the ball itself 7 ifi and 
 the cross 13 , forming a total height of 426 feet. 
 
 Thirty two corinthian pilasters, between which are 
 sixteen windows, support an entablature from which com- 
 mences the concavity of the cupola, divided into sixteen 
 compartments , adorned with gilt stuccoes aud mosaics 
 representing angels , the B. Virgin, the apostles and se- 
 veral saints. 
 
 On the friese of the entablature supported by the four 
 large pillars is the following text of the Gospel : « Tu es 
 Petrus , et super banc pelram sedificabo ccclesiam meam , 
 et tibi dabo claves regni ccelorum ». 
 
 In the upper niches of the pillars formed into bal- 
 conies with a balustrade jin front and columns at each 
 side many relics are preserved , the most precious are 
 in that over tbe statue of S. Yeronica. 
 
 The statues in ihe lower niches allude to the instru- 
 ments of the passion. S. Veronica holds the cloth that 
 wiped the sweat from our Saviour's lace , S. Helen the
 
 Eighth day. 157 
 
 nails and cross , S. Longinus the laoce that pierced his 
 side J the fourth represents S. Andrew. 
 
 TRIBUNE AND CHAIR OF S. PETER. 
 
 At the extremity of the grand nave are the tribune 7 
 and the altar , over which is the chair , made partly of 
 wood, partly of ivory, covered with ornaments and sup- 
 ported by four colossal figures representing the celebrated 
 doctors of the latin and greek church , S. Ambrose , 
 S. Augustine, S. Alhanasius and S. John Chrysostom. Two 
 angels bear the tiara and pontifical keys, a multitude of 
 seraphins venerate the chair : the holy Ghost , in the 
 shape of a dove , crowns the entire work. 
 
 The tomb of Paul 111 was executed by Guglielmo 
 della Porta under the direction of ftlichacl Angelo. At the 
 base are the reclining statues of Justice and Prudence; 
 the former being nearly naked was partly covered by 
 Bernini with a bronze drapery. The sepulchral monument 
 of Urban VUl , with the statues of Charity and Justice, 
 is a work of Bernini. 
 
 |Thc ceiling of the tribune is covered with gilt stuccoes 
 and bas reliefs. Christ giving the keys to S. Peter, is takeu 
 from a design of Raphael, the crucifixion of the apostle 
 from a painting of Guido , the decollation of S. Paul from 
 a bas relief of Algardi. 
 
 SOUTH SIDE. 
 
 Leaving the tribune on the left, the first altar, 
 adorned with two large columns of black egyplian gra- 
 nite , contains a mosaic representing S. Peter curing the 
 lame man, the original painting is by Francesco Rlancini. 
 Opposite is the tomb of Alexander Mil, who died in 1(391,
 
 i58 Guide of Rome 
 
 by Andrea Rossi. The has relief alludes to the canonization 
 of several saints by that pontiff in 1690. 
 
 On the next altar, that of S. Leo, is a has relief of 
 Algardi , representing Attila retiring from Rome at the 
 sight of SS. Peter and Paul. 
 
 Over the third , is a miraculous image of the B. Vir- 
 gin , and on the cupola are mosaics from the designs of An- 
 drea Sacchi and Lanfranc. 
 
 Over the fourth opposite the tomb of Alexander Yll 
 by Bernini, is the fall of Simon the magician, from a 
 painting by Vanni of Siena. 
 
 Near the tomb of Pius Yll by Thorwaldsen, are other 
 altars v\rilh the crucifixion of S. Peter, from an original 
 by Guido, and S. Thomas touching the side of our Saviour 
 from Camuccini. 
 
 Over an altar on the opposite pillar ef the grand cu- 
 pola is a mosaic , from an original by Roncalli , of Ananias 
 and Sapphira expiring at the feet of S. Peter. 
 
 In the Clementine chapel is a mosaic from a painting 
 of Andrea Sacchi representing a miracle of S. Gregory the 
 great w^hose body is under this altar. The mosaics of the 
 cupola are from works of Roncalli. 
 
 On another pillar of the grand cupola is the mosaic 
 copy of the Transfiguration. In the chapel of the choir is 
 the Conception from the original of Bianchi. In that of 
 the Presentation , the B. Virgin presented at the temple 
 is from the original of Romanelli. The tomb of IMarIa 
 Sobieski Stuart who died in 1755 , is ornamented with a 
 sarcophagus of porplij^ry, with a Charity and a genius 
 holding her portrait ; opposite are those of the three last 
 princes of the house of Stuart by Canova. 
 
 The baptismal font of the last chapel on the right 
 consists of a porphyry urn 12 feet long and six broad, 
 covered with a bronze gilt pvramld supporting a lamb , 
 the symbol of the redeemer. The central mosaic repre-
 
 Eighth day. 159 
 
 senting the baptism of our Saviour by S. Jolm , is copied 
 from Carlo ftlaralla, S. Peter baptizing SS. Processus and 
 Martinian in the Mamertine prison, Cornelius the cen- 
 turion , are from Passeri and Procaccini. 
 
 In the first chapel on the right on entering are the 
 group of the B. Yirgin and our Saviour after his cruci- 
 fixion , one of the earliest works of Michael Angelo , and 
 a mosaic representing S. Nicholas of Bari. Opposite the 
 monument of Christina queen of Sweden is that of 
 Loo Xll by Fabris. 
 
 The chapel of S. Sebastian contains the mosaic of the 
 picture of Domenichino existing at S. Maria degli Angelij 
 near the tomb of Innocent Xll is that of the countess Ma- 
 tilda , the has relief alludes to the absolution given by 
 S. Gregory Ml to the emperor Henry IV, in presence of 
 the countess. 
 
 On the altar of the chapel of the holy Sacrament is a 
 rich tabernacle decorated with twelve columns of lapis- 
 lazzuli, the base and capitals of the corlnthian order, and 
 the cupola are of gilt bronze. The fresco representing the 
 holy Trinity is by Pietro di Cortona : in tliis chapel are 
 the tombs of Sixtus IV and Julius 11, the has reliefs of 
 gilt stucco are by the same artist. 
 
 On llic pillar of the cupola is the mosaic of the com- 
 munion of S. Jerome by Domenichino. 
 
 The chapel of the B. Virgin , built on the designs of 
 Michael Angelo , contains an ancient image of the Ma- 
 donna ; the angular mosaics of the cupola are copied from 
 the works of Muziano. After the tomb of Benedict XIV, 
 on a pillar of the cupola is the altar of S. Basil the great, 
 the mosaic of which is from an original by Subleyras. 
 
 At the end of the north nave are three altars with 
 mosaics representing the martyrdom of SS. Processus and 
 Martinian from the original of Yalentini , that of S. Erasmo
 
 1 60 Guide of Rome 
 
 from Nicholas Poussin , and of S. Wenceslaus king of 
 Bohemia from the original by Caroselli. 
 
 Over the last pillar of the cupola is the mosaic from 
 Lanfranc , of the bark of S. Peter on the point of sinking 
 when Christ comes to the assistance of the apostle. 
 
 Opposite is the tomb of Clement Xlll by Canova. It 
 is composed of three large figures ; the pope in prayer , 
 Religion supporting the cross and the Genius of death 
 sealed near the sarcophagus , of two recumbent has relief 
 figures of Charily and Fortitude, and two lions symbolic 
 of the strength of mind which distinguished that pontiff. 
 
 In the last chapel of this side of the basilic are mo- 
 saics of the S. Michael of Guido , and of the S. Pelronilla 
 of Guercino , those of the cupola are from paintings by 
 Andrea Sacchi , Romanelli and Benefial. 
 
 After the totnb of Clement X is the mosaic from the 
 original of Coslanzi, of S. Peter restoring Tabitha to life. 
 
 The pavement of the ancient basilic preserved entire 
 is 11 feet under that of the modern. Four small chapels 
 correspond to the pillars that support the cupola and over 
 their altars are mosaic subjects taken from works of 
 Andrea Sacchi. 
 
 The chnpel of the Confession , placed under the grand 
 altar of the new basilic , was ornamented by Clement VllI 
 with marble, gilt stucco and 24 bronze reliefs allusive to 
 sundry events in the lives of SS. Peter and Paul. This altar 
 is held in the highest veneration being placed over the 
 tomb of the prince of the apostles. 
 
 Among the tombs of this subterraneous church are 
 those of the emperor Otho II , of Charlotte queen of Je- 
 rusalem and Cyprus , of James Stuart 111 , and of several 
 popes. It also contains numerous statues , has reliefs , 
 mosaics , paintings , inscriptions and other sacred monu- 
 ments , belonging to the ancient church.
 
 Eighth day. 161 
 
 THE SACRISTY. 
 
 The vestibule leads to tliree galleries adorncci with 
 grey marble columns and verde africano pilasters , bet- 
 ween which are various ancient and modern inscription*, 
 and the busts of several pontiffs. 
 
 In the sacristy of the canons arc a painting by Fat- 
 tore a pupil of Raphael , one by Giulio Romano and two 
 by Cavallucci. In the adjoning sacristy are a Muziano, 
 representing Christ giving the l<eys to S. Peter and an 
 ancient image of the B. Virgin. 
 
 The external parts of the temple can alone convey an 
 accurate idea of its size. A winding stair case of 142 steps 
 leads to a platform on which are two octangular cupolas 
 136 feet in height ; that of the grand cupola above this 
 platform is 285 feet ; it is entered by means of galleries 
 communicating with the internal entablature 7 feet wide 
 and 380 in circuuifcrence. AsccuGing to the spot where 
 the cupola is double , several steps lead to the lantern , 
 others to the ball of gilt bronze which is 7 1/2 feet in 
 diameter and contains room for 16 persons 5 an iron ladder 
 leads to the cross which is 15 feci high. 
 
 In finishing our cursory view of S. Peter's , it may not 
 be foreign to the purpose to add that three centuries and 
 a half were employed in its construction; that in contains 
 ten cupolas besides the one raised by Michael Angelo , 
 96 marble columns, 29 paintings in mosaic , about 140 
 statues, of which 91 are marble, 28 stucco and 21 bronze; 
 that from the entrance to the chair of S. Peter the length 
 is 575 feel, and the breadth under the cross 417, that 
 the middle nave is 82 feet broad and 142 high, each of 
 the lateral naves 20 feet wide, and that from a calculation 
 made by Carlo Fontana in 1693 , the expences exclusive
 
 i62 Guide of Ronid 
 
 of llie gildings, mosaic works and the sacristy, amounled' 
 at that period to nearly 252 millions of francs. 
 
 THE VATICAN PALACE. 
 
 The period of the foundation of the Vatican is not 
 known, but it is probable that when building the church, 
 Constantlne assigned to the pope some of the edifices 
 raised in the gardens of Nero. 
 
 It was repaired in the XII century, enlarged by 
 Gregory XI when the holy see returned from Avignon , 
 was embellished by Julius II and by Leo X ; enlarged by 
 several other Pontiffs and completed by Clement Ylll and 
 Paul V. A superb building was added to the museum by 
 Pius VI and a pinacolheca by Pius VII ; the reigning 
 sovereign Gregory XVI has founded two new museums , 
 one for etruscan, the other for egyptian monuments. 
 
 The architecture of this palace , being of diU'erent 
 
 periods, is dofeclJvR oe rogardo symmetry and regularity. 
 
 The principal stair case near the statue of Constantine, 
 leads to the sala regia , the frescoes of which representing 
 different historical facts. Were painted by Vasari and 
 Zuccari. 
 
 THE SIXTINE CHAPEL. 
 
 Built in 1473 by Sixtus IV is celebrated for the 
 frescoes of Michael Angelo who represented on the ceiling 
 the creation of the world and sundry passages of the old 
 testament , a work executed in the space of 20 months 
 without any assistance. 
 
 Under Paul III the same artist completed in three 
 years, the last judgment. In the centre are Christ and the 
 B. Virgin in the midst of the apostles and of a multitude 
 of saints : over these , angels bearing the instruments of 
 the passion : below others sounding trumpets to call the
 
 Eighth day. 163 
 
 dead from tlieir lombs to ihe last judgment. Several of 
 the dead resume tlieir flesh, others endeavour to shake off 
 the earth , others traverse the air to appear at the tribunal. 
 Some angels assist the elect in their [aUcmpt to reach 
 heaven, while demons, on the other hand, drag down to 
 hell the condemned whose resistance produces the most 
 violent struggles. On the lower part of the picture Charon 
 receives them in his bark and transports them to the 
 infernal regions. 
 
 On the other parts of the chapel Pletro Perugino j 
 Ghirlandajo end other distinguished artists of the XV cen- 
 tury, have represented scenes taken from the scriptures. 
 
 THE PAULINE: GHAPEL. 
 
 Was erected under Paul III on the designs of Sangallo. 
 The walls are covered with frescoes painted by Michael 
 Angelo and by Zuccari. The holy Sacrament is exposed 
 during the forty hours in this chapel on the first Sunday 
 of advent and in the holy week. 
 
 THE LOGGIE OP RAPHAEL. 
 
 Were commenced by Bramante under Julius II and 
 finished under Leo X by Raphael who covered the interior 
 walls with paintings and ornaments on his own designs 
 and directed their execution. 
 
 The arabesques of the first and the allegorical pieces 
 of the third story, were painted by Gio. d'Udine. On the 
 second story, composed of 13 arcades, Raphael has re- 
 presented 52 scenes of the old and new testament executed 
 partly by himself and partly by Julio Romano , Piorin del 
 Vaga and others, on his designs and under his direction. 
 
 These paintings sulfered much in 1527 when Rome 
 was taken by the troops of Charles V, but though the co-
 
 (64 Guide of Rome 
 
 lon'ng has faded tliey arc slill much admired for their 
 designs and composition. 
 
 The rooms on ihe first story adjoining the museum ^ 
 called the Borgia rooms , contain frescoes hy Giovanni 
 d'Udine, Plerin del Vaga and Pinturicchio. The mar- 
 tyrdom of S. Sehaslian, the visitation of the B. Virgin, 
 S. Catherine in presence of Maximian and others are by 
 Pinturiccliio , who also painted the subjects of the fourth 
 room , relative to the arts , sciences and virtues. 
 
 The famous antique painting found on the Esquiline 
 in 1606 and called Nozze Aldobrandini is supposed to 
 represent the marriage of Peleus and Thetis : the nymph 
 of an inferior stile, wras discovered near the via Nomen- 
 tana in 1810 : the portraits of five of the most notorious 
 women of the heroic times , Pasiphae , Scylla , Phedra , 
 Myrrha and Canace , near the S. Sebastian gale in 1828. 
 
 GALLERY OF INSCRIPTIONS. 
 
 Tlie reunion and arrangement of this collection is due 
 to Pius yil. On the right side are pagan, on the left 
 christian inscriptions, found generally in the catacombs. 
 
 The former relate to the gods and sacred ministers , 
 to the emperors, magistrates, soldiers, employments, 
 trades and funerals. The other antique monuments are 
 sarcophagi , funeral altars , cinerary urns. Among the mo- 
 numents are a marble niche with emblems of Neptune, 
 found at Todi , discovered in the pretorian camp and de- 
 dicated to the genius of the centuria under the consuls 
 Burrhus and Coramodus in 181. The monutnent of Lucius 
 Atimetus , remarkable for its has reliefs of a culler's 
 shop : the well , consecrated by Cerellius to Ceres and the 
 Nyjmphs , several representations of the milhriac worship. 
 
 The christian inscriptions ane interesting from the 
 symbols of the vine , the fish , the ark of Noe , the dove ,
 
 Eighth day. 165 
 
 the anchor, (he rites and sepulchral forms, the chrouology 
 of consuls in the IV and V centuries : the faults of ortho- 
 graphy and doubtful pronunciation of several letters indi- 
 cate the corruption of the latin language in those limes. 
 
 THE LIBRARY. 
 
 Surpasses the other libraries of Italy by the number 
 of its gieelc , latin , italian and oriental manuscripts , and 
 its collection of editions of the XV centuiy. It was com- 
 menced at the Laleran by pope S. Hilary , encreased by 
 Nicholas V, and placed in its present position by Sixlus V. 
 
 Over the case containing the books and mauuscripts, 
 are frescoes by sundry artists and etruscan vases , on one 
 of the finest is represented the apotheosis of Triptolemus-, 
 on another Achilles and Aj;ix playing at dice. 
 
 In the long galleries are the manuscripts and books 
 of the libraries of the elector palatine, of the dukes of 
 Urbino, of queen Christina , of the Capponi and Ottoboni| 
 successively united to that of the Vatican. 
 
 The third hall of the gallery to the left contains two 
 statues , one of S. Mippolilus, on whose seat is the cele- 
 brated paschal calendar: tlie other represents Aristides of 
 Smyrna , a greek sophist. Near these statues is a collec- 
 tion of utensils , paintings and other objects used by the 
 early chiislians and the cabinet containing charts, "written 
 on papyrus of the VI century , adjoining this cabinet 
 is that of ancient and modern engravings collected by 
 Pius VI, and at the end of the gallery that of cameos and 
 antiquities in bronze. 
 
 THE MUSEUM. 
 
 Without entering into a detailed desci iplion of the 
 numerous objects of art united in this collection , we shall 
 briefly notice the most interesting.
 
 166 Guide of Rome 
 
 Opposite the female reclining statue placed on a 
 tomb J found on the via Cassia, is a has relief of the games 
 of the circus , and one in the ancient greek style , of Mi- 
 nerva preceded by another divinity. Another draped figure 
 over a votive altar , was erected , according to its in- 
 scription by the priests of Bacchus , to the gods placed 
 on it. In the third compartment on the right is a fragment 
 with genii riding on sea monsters, both of alight and 
 elegant composition. The double headed hermes is remar- 
 kable as being the only monument known, uniting Bacchus 
 Knder the forms of Zagreus and Dlonj^slus. 
 
 In the gallery, called the Bracclo Nuovo , the first 
 object worthy of attention is the hermes formed of a half 
 figure of Mercury on which is an inscription relative lo 
 the sculptor Zeno which has been illustrated by Win- 
 kelmann. The mosaic under the statue of Domltianus and 
 Varus , representing Ulysses escaping from Scilla and ihe 
 Sirens, and that under the Faun were found in the vici- 
 nity of the gate of S. Sebastian. 
 
 The Minerva Medica , discovered near the supposed 
 temple so called, is admired for its proportions, drapery 
 and its general expiession j It is one of the best preserved 
 of those received from the ancients. It is probable that the 
 artist has imitated the statue that existed in the Parthenon. 
 
 In the centre of the gallery is a basaltic vase, highly 
 finished and of elegant composition. 
 
 Tbe statue of the Nile with sixteen children , sym- 
 bolic of the sixteen cubits the extent of its rise , and whose 
 .plinth is. covered with animals and plants peculiar to that 
 river was found near the temple of Serapis. In the four 
 angles ;ire colossal masks of Medusa , discovered near the 
 -temple of Venus and Rome, and In the niciies of the hc- 
 • micycle are five stalues from the ruins of vilhis near Ti- 
 '.voli , and that. of Luculkis at Circsei.
 
 ■Eighth day, 1'8'7 
 
 The mosaic of the pavement representing Diana of 
 Ephesus , was found at Poggio 31irteto , in the Sabine 
 country 5 the statues of Venus Anadyomene and of the 
 greek philosoper , are well executed 5 the Demosthenes , 
 finely draped , and in an appropriate altitude , is consi- 
 dered to be a perfect likeness of that orator. 
 
 The other most remarkable works of this hall are, 
 Abundance by land and by sea, a Roman matron supposed 
 to be Julia, the daughter of Titus, Euripides in good 
 preservation, a Diana contemplating Endymion, an Ama- 
 zon and a Faun , found near Circsei. 
 
 Near the garden gate are a reclining Faun with 
 Nereids and other Fauns , found in the villa of Quinlilius at 
 Tivoli. A Ganymede which was placed over a fountain at 
 Oslia i in the niches are an Isis and a Silenus. A Nerva with 
 the toga. A Silenus crowned with ivy holding Bacchus in 
 his arms, the head of a Dacian captive found in 1812 in 
 the excavations of the Trajnn forum and a Caryatides from 
 the temple of Pandrosus in the citadel of Athens, brought 
 to Venice in the XVH century and ihence to the Giusliniani 
 palace. 
 
 SECOND PART OF THE GALLERY. 
 
 In the fifth compartment , on the right, is a fragment 
 representing the carceres of a circus j in the seventh are 
 others of rural subjects , and the nuptial banrjuet of the 
 Leucippides to which Castor and Pollux were invited. The 
 sarcophagus of Evhodus with the has relief of the deafh 
 of Alccstes , in fine preservation , and fragments with 
 dancing IMenadcs. 
 
 In llic ninth compartment arc fragments of interefiting 
 has reliefs, of the ancient greek slyle allusive to Perseus 
 and thii combat of Hercules vrilh the Amazons. 
 
 Opposite the tenth is a mask of the Ocean on a TOtive 
 altar , and a well draped statue of Polymnia.
 
 1 68 Guide of Rome 
 
 The most interesting objects of the elevenlTi division 
 are busts of Sappho and of Antoninus Pius, 'opposite is 
 that of Alcibiades ; of the twelfth a statue of Hercules, 
 the combat of the Amazons , a wounded gladiator plunging 
 a dagger in the breast of a lion. 
 
 In the fragments of the fifteenth compartment the 
 roman soldiers may be seen covered with the hamata a 
 kind of cuirass and with the squamea so called from their 
 scaly form. 
 
 In the sixteenth is the statue of Tiberius found at 
 Veii j in the seventeenth the fragment of a has relief with 
 a four wheeled car , and a bust of Augustus , found at 
 Ostia , which from its high finish is considered as one of 
 the finest of the collection. Near the bust]of Demosthenes is 
 that of Cicero agreeing with the medals found at Magnesia. 
 
 Near the finely draped statue of Esculapius in the 
 XIX compartment are the torso of a Citharedus of Co- 
 wered alabaster, sundry animals and a mithriac group. 
 
 The chief objects in the XX are a Tiberius found at 
 Piperno , and opposite a sarcophagus , placed on a sepul- 
 chral monument on which are sculptured utensils used in 
 grinding olives and in making oil. On the left a statue of 
 Atropos , one of the fates , found in the villa Adriana. 
 
 In the XXI a head of one of the daughters of Niobe, 
 another of Verus admirably executed. A statue of Silenus 
 and opposite a bust of Isis. 
 
 In the XXllI are busts of Antoninus, Nerva, Pallas^ 
 Trajan and Augustus , and on the opposite wall a has re- 
 lief of ^on, a gnostic divinity and one of Mithra. 
 
 The XXIV and XXV compartments contain a Venus, 
 a Mercury, a statue of Claudius, busts of Neptune, of 
 Agrippina tlie younger, of Brutus and a small statue of 
 Typhon in the egypto-roman style. 
 
 The XXVI and XXVII, a Ceres finely draped, placed 
 on a quadrani^ular altar with figures of Apollo and Diana,
 
 Eighth day. 169 
 
 Mars and Mercury , Fortune and Hope , Hercules and 
 Sylvanus, fragments of excellent style and execution; op- 
 posite are statues of Alys , Hercules and Ganymede. 
 
 In the XXVni and XXIX are a Roman lady under 
 the form of Hygeia in penlelic marble •, a fine bust , a co- 
 lossal head of Antoninus Pius , a small statue of Ulysses 
 as he Is represented on the medals of the Mamilian family. 
 Opposite are a fragment representing a dancing Faunj heads 
 of Sabina the wife of Adrian, cf Isis, of a Centaur crowned 
 with vine-leaves and a bacchic head in giallo antico. 
 
 In the last compartment are a recumbent Hercules, 
 two hermes , one of Solon and the other unknown. 
 
 HEMYCICLE OF THE BELVEDERE, 
 
 Pius VII united in these rooms numerous egyptian 
 monuments and casts from the Parthenon , presented by 
 George IV king of England. 
 
 The semicircular gallery contains the egyptian mo- 
 numents purchased by Pius VII. Ten statues of black 
 granite, each with the head of a lioness, represent « Athor» 
 the Venus of the Greeks , in the centre of the curve is a 
 mummy in its case between two cynocephali , sculptured 
 in sand-stone. Around the wall are hieroglyphics and 
 epitaphs one of which dates from the year 1602 of the 
 christian era. Under the opposite windows , and ranged 
 in closets, are small statues of bronze, wood and stone 
 utensils of all sorts used in ancient Egypt and several 
 mummies of sacred animals. All these objects were found, 
 in latter times, in the ruins of Thebes, and in the tombs 
 of Gournah , on the left bnnk of the Nile. 
 
 The reigning Pontiff ordered the reunion in these 
 chambers of all the egyptian monuments existing in the 
 public museums of Rome. 
 
 11
 
 1 70 Guide of Rome 
 
 MUSEO PIO CLEMENT INO. 
 
 This immense museum was formed by popes Cle- 
 ment XIII and XIV5 but particularly by Pius Yl who 
 added numerous monuments and the hall of animals, a part 
 of ihe gallery, the hall of the muses , the round hall , that 
 in the form of a greek cross , that of the biga and the 
 grand stair case. From its architecture and decorations it 
 may considered as one of the most splendid of modern Rome. 
 
 SQUARE PORCH. 
 
 In the centre is the celebrated torso of the Belvedere 
 found in the thermsE of Caracalla. It is known, from the 
 greek inscription at the base, that this fragment belonging 
 to a statue of Hercules, is the work of Apollonius , son of 
 Nestor the athenian. 
 
 Of the other monuments in this room the most cele- 
 brated are those found in the tomb of the Scipios , several 
 very ancient inscriptions line the walls , that on the sar- 
 cophagus shows that it was the tomb of Scipio Barbatus 
 consul in the year of Rome 460. The bust crowned with 
 laurel , placed on the tomb , was probably the portrait of 
 one of the Scipios. 
 
 In the round hall are fragments of male and female 
 figures finely draped , and on the balcony an ancient clock 
 on which are marked the cardinal points , and the names 
 of the winds in greek and latin. 
 
 CHAMBER OF MELEAGER. 
 
 So called from its celebrated statue over which is an 
 ancient inscription staling that Lucius Mummius consul in 
 the year of Rome 607, defeated the Acha?ans , took and 
 destroyed Corinth and after his triumph dedicated the
 
 Eighth dmj. 171 
 
 temple which during the war he had vowed to erect to 
 Hercules. A has relief on the walls represents the apo- 
 theosis of Homer by the muses. 
 
 PORTICO OF THE COURT. 
 
 This portico which contains the most celebrated mo- 
 numents of ancient art is supported by 16 granite columns 
 and several pilasters. 
 
 Ths first cabinet contains ancient statues of Mercury 
 and Pallas ; the boxers and Perseus of Canova. 
 
 The second the IVIercury, known under the name of 
 Antinous , found on the Esquiliiie, ou the walls are has 
 reliefs of Achilles who has just killed Penthesilea, and an 
 isiac procession. 
 
 The third the group of Laocoon found under Julius II 
 in the baths of Titus ; we learn from Pliny that this com- 
 position is due to three grecian sculptors, Agesander, Po- 
 lydorus and Athenodorus of Rhodes. The has reliefs re- 
 present a Bacchanalian festival and the triumph of Bacchus 
 after his Indian expedition. 
 
 The last cabinet is that of the Belvedere Apollo, 
 found at Antium in the beginning of the XYI century and 
 considered to be the most perfect work of sculpture. The 
 has reliefs on the wall allude to a chase and to Pasiphae. 
 
 Near the first cabinet is a sarcophagus with an in- 
 scription slating that it belonged to Marcellus the father 
 of Heliogabalus; another with figures of Fauns and pries- 
 tesses of Bacchus. 
 
 On the sarcophagi near the second cabinet , are re- 
 presented prisoners imploring the clemency of the con- 
 queror , and Bacchus visiting Ariadne in the isle of Naxos. 
 
 On those placed near the third , Nereids are carrying 
 the arms of Achilles and the Atheuians are engaged in 
 battle with the Amazons.
 
 172 Guide of Rome, 
 
 Near the fourth cabinet are bas reliefs of Hercules 
 and Bacchus wilh their attributes, Augustus commencing 
 a sacrifice and Rome accompanying a victorious emperor. 
 
 HALL OF THE ANIMALS. 
 
 In this rare collection of sculptured animals are the 
 groups of a marine Centaur and a Nereid , Hercules kil- 
 ling Gorgon, chaining and carrying away Cerberus, kil- 
 ling the lion , Diomed and his horses , Commodus on hor- 
 seback casting a javelin, it appears from this statue that in 
 the time of that emperor it was customary to shoe horses. 
 
 The pavement is composed of antique mosaics repre- 
 senting a wolf J an eagle devouring a hare , and a tiger. 
 
 GALLERY OF .STATUES. 
 
 The most remarkable statues of this gallery are a 
 Clodius Albinus , a half figure of Cupid , Paris, Pallas, 
 Penelope, Juno, an Amazon, the muse Urania, Posidippos 
 and Menander. 
 
 On the side opposite are an Apollo holding the lyre, 
 a Neptune , a wounded Adonis, Bacchus, a group of Es- 
 culapius and Hygeia, a Danaid, Ariadne deserted, usually 
 called a Cleopatra , is placed between two marble cban- 
 deliers found in the villa Adi iana and is supported by a 
 pedestal on the bas relief of which is representedjthe war 
 of the giants against the gods. 
 
 HALL OF BUSTS. 
 
 The most esteemed busts in this collection ane those 
 of Domitia, Galba, Mammsca, Lysimachus, Ariadne, Me- 
 nelaus, Valerian, Perliuax, Agrippa, Caracalla, Antinous 
 and Serapis in basalt.
 
 Eighth day. 1 73 
 
 A niche is occupied by tlie colossal statue of Jupiter 
 at whose feet is the eagle grasping the sceptre and thun- 
 derbolt. On the other side of the hall are busts of Trajan 
 and Antoninus Pius, of Sabina, Brutus, Aristophanes and 
 Marcus Aurelius j a semi-figure of Apollo ; a statue of 
 Livia and on a sole block of marble two portraits said to 
 represent Calo and Porcia. 
 
 CABINET. 
 
 Under Pius VI De Angelis painted on the centre of 
 the ceiling the marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne, and in 
 the four angles Paris offering the apple to Venus , Diana 
 and Endymion , Venus and Adonis , Pallas and Paris. On 
 the friese are represented antique festoons and children , 
 the has reliefs allude to the labours of Hercules. The 
 statues of Minerva, Ganymede, Adonis, of one of the 
 hours , of Venus and Diana are ancient works of fine 
 composition. 
 
 Under the niches are four porphyry benches resting 
 on bronze supporters. The pavement , an ancient mosaic 
 of the finest execution , was found in the villa Adriana. A 
 festoon of sundry fruits and leaves, tied with ribbons, 
 forms a circular border round a compartment of white 
 mosaic enclosing three figures of masks, and a landscape 
 with goals and shepherds. 
 
 In the passage leading to the gallery is the statue of 
 a dancing Faun, and near a small Diana a has relief of 
 three conquerors in athletic games. Under the window is 
 the celebrated alabaster vase found in the Mausoleum of 
 Augustus supposed, from the inscriptions that lay near it, 
 and now preserved in the gallery, to have contained the 
 ashes of Livilla, the daughter of Germauicus.
 
 174 Guide of Rome 
 
 THE HALL OF THE MUSE. 
 
 Is clecorated with 16 columns of Carrara marble with 
 antique capitals from the villa Adriana. 
 
 The statues representing the Muses were found with 
 the hermes of the Sages of Greece , in the villa of Cassius 
 at Tivoli. They are Melpomene, crowned with vine leaves 
 and holding the mask and sword , Thalia with the tabour 
 and comic mask, Urania the celestial globe, Calliope, 
 Polymnia the muse of pantomime with her hands folded in 
 her drapery. Erato with her lyre, Clio the muse of history, 
 Terpsichore and Euterpe. Near the statue of Silenue are a 
 has relief of the dance of the Corybantes ; the hermes of 
 Sophocles, Euripides, Eschines, Demosthenes and Antis- 
 thenes , the first portrait known of this founder of the 
 cynic sect. 
 
 The veiled hermes of Aspasia is placed near the bust 
 of Pericles j both have greek inscriptions. The remaining 
 principal busts of this hall are those of Solon, Periander, 
 Alcibiades, Socrates , Aralus and Euripides. 
 
 The marble pavement inlaid with sundry mosaic fi- 
 gures of comic and tragic actors , was found at Lorium , 
 (Castel di Guido) 12 miles from Rome ; the frescoes by 
 Conca allude to the subjects united in this room. 
 
 ROUND HALL. 
 
 A variety of statues and colossal busts placed on co- 
 lumns of porphyry, form the ornament of this hall round 
 which are ten large marble pilasters whose capitals were 
 sculptured by Franzoni. 
 
 The principal busts are those of Jupiter, Adrian, 
 Antinous , Serapis , Julia Pia and Pertinax. The statues 
 of Hercules , Augustus , Ceres , Antoninus Pius , Nerva , 
 Juno Lanuvina indicated by the goat skin and shield.
 
 Eighth day. 1 75 
 
 The pavement found at OtricoH and the sea monsters 
 at Scrofano, are fine specimens of antique mosaics. In the 
 centre, over the head of Medusa, is a porphyry vase 41 
 feet in circumference. 
 
 HALL OF THE GREEK CROSS. 
 
 The door leading into this room is remarkahle for 
 the splendour of its ornaments. The bases , columns , co- 
 lossal statues serving as Caryatides to the entablature are 
 all of red egyptian granite and are supposed to have been 
 adapted to one of the entrances of Adrian's villa. 
 
 On the porphyry urn , which -was the tomb of 
 S. Constantia , children are occupied in gathering grapes. 
 It vpas found near her church , commonly called the 
 temple of Bacchus. 
 
 The corresponding urn , also of porphyry, with bas 
 reliefs of a battle and prisoners, served as the tomb of 
 the empress S. Helen. 
 
 Near the grating are two colossal sphinxes and on the 
 walls bas reliefs representing combats of gladiators and 
 wild beasts, bacchanalian and other mythological subjects. 
 
 On the pavement is a mosaic found at Tusculum re- 
 presenting a head of Minerva and various arabesques. 
 
 The stair case is decorated with twenty columns of 
 granite, with balustrades in bronze, entablatures of sculp- 
 tured marble and statues emblematic of the Nile and of 
 another river. 
 
 Another stair case on which are eight columns of 
 breccia corallina leads to the 
 
 HALL OF THE BIGA. 
 
 In the centre of which is an ancient marble biga 
 finely sculptured. In the niches are statues of Perseus, of
 
 175 Guide of Rome 
 
 ... ' 
 
 Alcibiades, a richly draped female figure performing a sa- ■ 
 
 crifice, of Apollo holding the lyre , of Phocion , a Diosco- 
 bolus copied from Myron , of Apollonius a greek philo- 
 sopher of the second century, and of Apollo SauroctoQUS 
 or destroyer of the lizard. 
 
 Of the sarcophagi placed at the foot of each niche 
 one represents the genius and the allribules of the Muses, 
 three the games of the circus. 
 
 THE FOLLOWING GALLERY. 
 
 Is divided into six sections } the first containing mo- 
 numents, chandeliers and two trunks of trees supporting 
 nests of little Cupids. 
 
 The second, vases, cups, chandeliers of various forms, 
 and two sarcophagi alluding to the history of Prolesilas and 
 Laodamia, and to the death of Egisthus and Clytemnestra. 
 
 In the third are the antiquities discovered at Tor Ma- 
 rancio near the Ardean VV^ay, and consisting of slatues,frag- 
 ments of paintings and a mosaic representing vegetables, 
 fish and fowl. 
 
 The fourth section is enriched with vases, chandeliers, 
 cups , statues , has reliefs , sarcophagi with the fable of 
 Niobe and the amours of Diana and Endymion. 
 
 In the fifth is an elegant draped statue of Ceres j in 
 the last section are monuments and many rare kinds of 
 marble. 
 
 In the adjoining rooms are the tapestries of Raphael 
 and the collection of maps formed by Gregory Xlll. 
 
 MUSEO GREGORIANO. 
 
 This museum has been formed by the present pope 
 Gregory XVI to contain the numerous monuments of art 
 found of late years in the ancient cities of Vulci , Tar-
 
 Eighth day. 1 7 7 
 
 quinll, Cere, Toscanella and in olher spots scattered over 
 that part of ancient Etruria which extends from the Tiber 
 to the river Fiora. To these monuments have been added 
 those of Egypt which were hitherto in the Capitol or in 
 olher public museums. 
 
 In the first vestibule are three reclining figures, two 
 male and one fem;de, originally placed over tombs, which 
 are remarkable by the ornaments with which they are 
 adorned. 
 
 The horses' heads of a good style of sculpture were 
 found over a sepulchral door at Vulci. 
 
 Several cinerary urns made of alabaster of Volterra 
 and votive offerings were discovered at Cere. 
 
 The adjoining room contains a large sarcophagus on 
 which are represented the funeral rites of the Etruscans , 
 and urns found at Castel Gandolfo of a style similar to 
 those of Etruria. 
 
 The works in terra cotfa are united in the hall of 
 Mercury so called from the highly finished statue of that 
 god found at Tivoli. 
 
 The following room contains the vases with black 
 figures on a yellow ground of the most ancient style. The 
 vase of Bacchus particularly admired for its execution; 
 the figures are not mere outlines but painted, the different 
 colours imitating the flesh, the vestments and accessories, 
 the subject represents IVlercury consigning to Silenus the 
 infant Bacchus; three nymphs emblematic of the seasons, 
 which formerly were three in number , are celebrating 
 with their songs the birth of the son of Jove. 
 
 The chamber of Apollo is so called from the vase iu 
 high preservation , representing Apollo seated on the tri- 
 pod , singing to the sound of the lyre ; this urn is perfect 
 both for its composition and its workmanship. It is placed 
 in the midst of several others which are highly interesting. 
 
 11*
 
 178 Guide of Rome 
 
 In the hall of the bronzes is the military statue disco- 
 vered at Todi , a monument unrivalled as offering a type 
 of the national art the celebrity of vsrhich is encreased by 
 the epigraphs engraved on it to which various interpreta- 
 tions have been given. In this room are domestic utensils, 
 differing in form , style and size, chandeliers used also in 
 the sacred rites , the tripod and casket , beautiful bronzes 
 fotyid at Vulci, military vveapons at Bomarzo, fragments 
 of figures larger than life at Chiusi, the colossal arm in the 
 port of Civitavecchia: the etruscan car so singular for its 
 ornaments and style , the chest engraved with athletic 
 combats are worthy of observation : the walls and tables 
 are covered with mirrors and inscriptions useful in ad- 
 vancing the knowledge of the etruscan language. In two 
 closets are deposited a great number of small utensils, light 
 fragments and vases : the large vessels utensils and arms 
 on the walls, the mask used in scenic representations and 
 crowned with ivy, are finely executed. 
 
 Tbe works in gold are beautiful and elegant whether 
 we consider the invention, the form or their state of pre- 
 servation : the ornaments of men are the distinctive signs 
 of dignities , the premiums of victory, the gifts of athletic 
 combats, the civic and triumphal crowns of ivy and mirtle, 
 the gold works cut with the chisel, not only manifest the 
 taste of the artists but convey an idea of the scientific 
 knowledge of the nation. From all these objects an idea 
 may be formed of the riches , the flourishing state, and 
 the degree of splendour attained by the Etruscans when 
 objects of such value were buried with the owners. 
 
 A passage, the walls of which are lined with etruscan 
 inscriptions, leads to a large room round which are copies 
 perfectly resembling the original paintings existing on the 
 tombs of Yulci and Tarquinii , monuments of the highest 
 importance in the history of national art as they represent 
 the public games and banquets which took place at the
 
 Eighth day. 179 
 
 funerals of illustrious individuals: the vases and sculptures 
 of this room are marked with elruscan inscriptions. 
 
 Near the passage to the cinerary urns of alabaster of 
 Volterra is an imitation of a small etruscan cemetery -, 
 and a tomb brought from Yulci the door of which is 
 guarded by two lions placed as in their original position. 
 In the interior are disposed the funeral beds and vases 
 which are usually found in these tombs. 
 
 THE GALLERY. 
 
 Is filled with cups of the most delicate workmanship 
 that has come down to us from the ancient schools. Of 
 various and beautiful shapes the design is generally of tlie 
 lightest character j the artists , pleased no doubt with the 
 elegance of their compositions, have frequently inscribed 
 their names on the vases , with short and witty jests ex- 
 pressive of joy , happiness, invilatlons to drink , to pass 
 life merrily, expressions which may appear to be discordant 
 with the figures represented , but for which there exists 
 a reason which it is not always easy to penetrate as they 
 afford a field for extensive research. These arguments 
 may be particularly applied to the archeology of the fine 
 series of argonautic vases found In the necropolis of Agilla 
 and in that of Cere which are united in this museum. 
 
 This celebrated maritime expedition of the heroic 
 ages was hitherto considered as having afforded a subject 
 of fiction amongst the greek and latin poets nor did any 
 monuments exist in support of their assertions, but in this 
 collection Is an ample development of the Thessalian story 
 which gives a new, a better and a different idea of that 
 celebrated event. On one of the vases the principal chiefs 
 who partook of the dangers and glory of the entreprise 
 are preparing for their departure and putting on their 
 armour : the attendants obliged to serve and follow their
 
 180 Guide of Rome 
 
 lords prepare the shields each of which is distinguished 
 by an emblem-, on one a lion, on another a bull, on others 
 a throne or a branch full of leaves j not only does this vase 
 prove the antiquity of heraldry but the mantles worn by 
 the personages show their degrees of rank, and ihe same 
 ornaments that cover the mantle of the chief appear on 
 those of his attendant. 
 
 On other vases are represented the calamities which 
 hefel the royal house of ^son and Pelias ; the lamenta- 
 tions ofLemoos, the vengeance of Medea are expressed 
 in a manner differing altogether from the accounts of the 
 greek and latin stage, or from the epic poetry of those 
 nations: the hand of these ancient artists was guided by 
 narrations now lost as appears on a vase placed in the 
 centre of those described , on which the final catastrophe 
 of the conquest of the golden fleece is expressed in a 
 mode hitherto unknown j Jason when nearly devoured by 
 the dragon is drawn out of his jaws by Minerva ; the 
 name written in clear purple letters near the figure of the 
 chief leaves no doubt on the subject. 
 
 Afler the argonautic vases come those which represent 
 the deeds of Hercules and the mysteries of Dionysius, form- 
 ing a series of subjects difficult to explain, the traditions 
 and opinions of the learned being frequently at variance. 
 
 A design of the utmost perfection and purity of 
 slyle with an expression suited to the subject is that of 
 OEdipus in his Iravelh'ng dress, deeply meditating on 
 the enigma proposed by the sphinx who appears on the 
 summit of a rock in those mixed fantastic forms of a lion 
 and a young female under which she is represented in the 
 monuments of art. On another vase the artist , without 
 regarding the design, ridiculed this subject by representing 
 a man with an enormous head in the same pensive attitude 
 as OEdipus and a monkey in lieu of the sphinx.
 
 Eighth day. 181 
 
 The vases relative to the ancient systems of theogony, 
 to the homeric descriptions, to the public games banquets 
 and other usages of those times open a wide field for re- 
 search, whether we consider the beauty and excellence 
 of the design , which in the gymnastic scenes often reach 
 perfection, or the light they throw on the classic authors 
 and other monuments of antiquity. 
 
 In one of the closets are vases of a smaller size but 
 highly interesting from the variety of their forms and ca- 
 price of invention , particularly in those used for drink- 
 ing; some have the form of a ram , others of the humble 
 animal that carried Silenus , the face of an Ethiopian and 
 of Silenus who expresses his joy on receiving the gifts of 
 his disciple. This closet also contains bowls and vases of 
 various forms of the most finished workmanship. 
 
 THE EGYPTIAN MUSEUM. 
 
 Several statues and colossal figures contemporaneous 
 with their prototypes are united in this museum. The co- 
 lossus of queen Twea , the small statue of Menephtah 1 
 seated on a throne , the fragment of the throne of Rham- 
 ses 111 are of the period of the dynasty that reigned be- 
 tween the year 1822 and 1474 before the christian era. 
 Without entering into a detail of all the monuments re- 
 presenting the human form, animals, vases or other ob- 
 jects we shall arrest our attention on the most remarkable; 
 the two lions next to the colossus of Twea though the 
 last of the works executed under the Pharaohs which are 
 known to us , bear testimony to the talent of the egyptian 
 sculptors even at the decline of that empire. 
 
 The torso of king Necfanebo placed in the hall of lions 
 is not less worthy of attention for the beauty of its form , 
 nor can we avoid noticing another torso in the same hall 
 representing one of the ministers of state, it is executed in 
 alabaster of Gournah.
 
 182 Guide uf Rome 
 
 Continuing our review of this museum we shall find 
 a new, though indirect, proof of the errors hitherto com- 
 mitted in judging of egyptian art when it represented the 
 human form. In the large hall contiguous to that of the 
 lions fitted up in the egyptian style , are the monuments 
 of imitation or those produced in Rome in the egyptian 
 manner at the period of the emperors the greater part 
 of which were found in the villa Adriana near Tivoli. To 
 an imitation of the works executed under the Pharaohs 
 and without attempting to correct the original taste pre- 
 vailing during so many centuries in Egypt , these artists 
 added the softness and finish which distinguished the greek 
 school at Rome. An example is observed in the Antinous, 
 a statue placed in this hall , which from the beauty of its 
 form has been named , by artists, the egyptian Apollo. If 
 imitation has produced a work of such merit how can we 
 doubt of the perfection which sculpture had attained in 
 Egypt? not that all egyptian statues could serve as mo- 
 dels , but several dispersed throughout Europe are equal 
 in beauty to the Antinous. The works of imitation repre- 
 senting animals are not less useful in judging of egyptian 
 art ■, in comparing the works of the Egyptian and Roman 
 artist , if the former is not superior he certainly is not 
 inferior, as the egyptian, in the representation of animals 
 always possessed the greatest degree of skill as is evidently 
 proved by the lions of king Nectanebo, bj^ the prodigious 
 quantity of volatilcs , quadrupeds , reptiles and scarabcei 
 abounding In this museum whose resemblance to nature is 
 so perfect that they might serve for the study of naturalists. 
 
 ARCHITECTURE. 
 
 In order to complete the egyptian collection of the 
 Vatican of works of art in its primitive state the only 
 monuments wanting were those of architecture; the works
 
 Eighth day. 183 
 
 preserved till the present day in Egypt attest tlie boldness 
 of imagination and power of execution shown ijy that na- 
 tion in this art and excite a sentiment of regret in those 
 who have not had an opportunity of observing the mo- 
 numents spread along the banks of the Nile. 
 
 The Vatican museum possesses a small but valuable 
 remnant of this nature: a capilitl from Thebes of the se- 
 cond order of architecture, formed of sand stone in the 
 shape of an expanded lotus ; that it is genuine is attested 
 by the vestiges of yellow colour which originally covered 
 it , as it was customary amongst the Egyptians to paint 
 those species of stone which did not admit of polish. This 
 small remnant placed in the gallery of mummies, may be 
 found useful in comparing the greek style with the ori- 
 ginal ee;yptian. 
 
 We shall not dwell on the various productions of 
 the mechanical arts abounding in this collection , on the 
 fabrication of papyri , the weaving of cotton in the ban- 
 dages of mummies , nor on the admirable art of preserving 
 for thousands of years the remains of the mortal frame , 
 on the sandals varying in shape, or the works in bronze 
 and sycamore wood on which are represented figures of 
 the gods or of embalmed bodies, cases containing animals 
 reduced to mummies, and those in which writings have 
 been deposited ; one in the gallery of mummies is particu- 
 larly interesting as it represents on its four sides hiero- 
 glyphic inscriptions relative to the four genii , the com- 
 panions and assistants of Osiris in the i egions below, who 
 appear in their respective characters. In this collection are 
 numerous small vessels of various substances , containing 
 the ointment used in painting the eyelids, others were des- 
 tined to preserve balsam or perfumes. 
 
 tSuch is the valuable collection of monuments bearing 
 testimony to the knowledge of the Egyptians , of that 
 knowledge which Moses, having imbibed, became powerful
 
 184 G uide of Rome 
 
 in acts and words (acts of the apostles chapter VII). Such 
 are the resources laid open to the learned in this museum 
 by order of the reigning pontiff Gregory XVI and due to 
 his incessant zeal to promote the interests of religion. Here 
 the theologian will find the vestiges of the primitive tra- 
 ditions which preceded the revelation written by Moses 
 and the prophets; here sacred philology derives informa- 
 tion for the explanation of oriental biblical texts; how 
 many points of contact exist between the customs of the 
 two nations, the people of God and that of Egypt whose 
 history is so closely connected ; what a new light is shed 
 on a multitude of hebrew idioms and forms of language 
 arising from the similarity of a great number of scriptural 
 phrases with the forms of the ancient egyptian language 
 preserved in the hieroglyphic inscriptions. 
 
 To the student of sacred writ, it will be gratifying 
 to see the portrait of Ptolemy Philadelphus under whose 
 auspices , and doubtless providentially , was undertaken 
 the version of the scriptures from hebrew into greek , 
 called the septuagint. The civilised nations of that time 
 were thus enabled to read the sacred code and prepared 
 to receive the first glimmerings of the doctrines of J'he 
 unity of God and of the redemption which was approach- 
 ing ; the statues of Ptolemy and Arsinoe are placed near 
 that part of the library which contains the celebrated ma- 
 nuscript of this inestimable version. 
 
 In the egyptian monuments collected in this museum 
 a distinct history is traced of sculpture and architecture, 
 we shall now examine writing and painting. 
 
 WRITING. 
 
 The primitive state of the egyptian characters is 
 proved by the vestiges that remain of the earliest kinds of 
 writing : the first was that of the simple representation of
 
 Eighth day. 185 
 
 the idea , the second was at once symbolic and phonetic , 
 the third the plain alphabetic expression , at least in greek 
 and reman names j the union of these systems constitutes 
 the beauty of the writing called hieroglyphic. 
 
 The written papyri , some in the hieroglyphic , others 
 in the hieratic and demotic characters , amount to about 
 thirty two ; these line the walls of the fourth room after 
 the gallery of mummies. 
 
 In the fiflii are disposed inscriptions relating to his- 
 tory and in the left angle that of quuen Amense illustrated 
 by Rosellini near which is the precious scaraboeus called 
 that of Memnon , or Amenoph 111 , engraved in honour of 
 that l^ing , to celebrate his marriage with queen Taia and 
 the happy state of Egypt at that period. On the fragment 
 of a pilaster of brown stone is an interesting inscription 
 indicating that Egypt was governed by a female, in the 
 want of a male heir to the throne. 
 
 A valuable historic monument in the hall of statues 
 is that of a priest whose tunic is covered with a long in- 
 scription purporting that five kings had reigned successi- 
 vely during his ministry: three cgyplian A pries, Amasis, 
 Psammacherites and two persian , Cambyses and Darius. 
 We shall not dwell on the numerous dedicatory and fu- 
 neral inscriptions of other monuments in granite, ala- 
 baster, basalt existing in this collection as several have 
 not yet been illustrated. 
 
 \ The pure hieroglyphic characters are preserved in the 
 inscriptions on the two lions of king Neclanebo and in the 
 sarcophagus of a priest of the goddess Pascht, named Psam- 
 meticus , in the hall of urns. In that of the lions are other 
 hieroglyphics in profile on the throne of Ramses HI, those 
 on the cover of the sarcophagus of Imotph in the gallery of 
 mummies and around the sarcophagus of Manes in the hall 
 of urns are of the most elegant execution.
 
 186 Guide of Rome 
 
 Of the third class of plain outlines are the hierogly- 
 phics on the scarabcei , amulets and funeral vases. Of the 
 fourth called linear are the inscriptions on the mummy 
 cases. The fifth comprises those painted as on the monu- 
 ments of Ramses X and of the daughter of Takellolhis. 
 The great advantage derived from the knowledge of these 
 characters is their application to chronology and history, 
 and whenever on the monuments of Egypt any royal 
 name is written , it is easy to assign the period to which 
 it belongs , as one of those names generally corresponds to 
 a certain date. The Vatican collection embraces chrono- 
 logical dates indicated by royal names twenty eight in 
 number according to the following series : 
 
 1. Renoubka one of the most ancient kings of the 
 XVI dynasty who lived about the lime of Abraham. This 
 monument was found in the lombs of Gournah, the name 
 is written on the necklace or collar. 
 
 2. Amenoph 1 written on the mummy case (hall of 
 urns) and unless ibis be the title of a divinity its date 
 would be the year 1832 before Christ. 
 
 3. 4. Amense and Amenenhe the former reigning 
 queen of the XVlll dynasty, the latter her husband, 1750 
 years before Christ. 
 
 5. Thutmes IV the fifth king of the preceding dy- 
 nasty succeeded to his mother Amense and reigned from 
 the year 1749 to 1727 B.C. 
 
 6. 7. To the same dynasty belongs Amenoph 111 the 
 eighth king; the scaraboeus above mentioned bearing his 
 name and that of bis wife Taia belongs to the year 1 690 B.C. 
 The six colossi of the goddess Pasct, two of which are in 
 the hall of lions , the others in the hemicycle, were exe- 
 cuted under this king. 
 
 8. Menephtah 1. The museum possesses in the egyp- 
 tian hall an elegant statue of this king who reigned from 
 
 \
 
 Eighth day, 187 
 
 1604 to 1579 before the present era , and was father of 
 the great Sesostris. 
 
 9. 10. Twea and Concheres; the first the wife of the 
 above named king and the mother of Sesostris is represented 
 in a colossus of black breccia placed in the hall of lions; 
 the other represented on the pilaster of the colossus was 
 probably the wife of Sesostris. 
 
 11. Ramses 111, the Sesostris of the greek writers 
 who reigned from 1565 to 1494 B. C. His name is fre- 
 quently repeated on the fragment of his seated statue to the 
 left in the hall of lions and on the colossus of queen Twea. 
 
 12. Siphtah also belonged to the XVIII dynasty but 
 the period of his reign is uncertain. 
 
 15. Ramses V second king of the XIX dynasty, in 
 the XV century B. C. is mentioned in a hieratic papy- 
 rus XII , letter C. 
 
 14. Ramses X founder of the XX dynasty belongs to 
 the XIII century before the present era j his name appears 
 on a small painted sand stone placed in the fifth chamber. 
 
 15. Osorchon the son of Takellothis who reigned 
 eight centuries before the christian era. This prince is 
 represented on painted wood in the fifth room in the act 
 of offering a sacrifice to the god Phre. 
 
 16. Psammeticus 1 fourth king of the XXVI dynasty 
 who reigned between 654 and 609 B. C. The museum 
 possesses several monuments of this king found at Sais , 
 his native place. His name is inscribed on two statues in 
 the hall of egyptian figures, on a sarcophagus and on a de- 
 motic papyrus XII , letter A. 
 
 17. Apries of the same dynasty 588 years before the 
 present era whose second name is Ramesto. 
 
 18. Amasis his successor. 
 
 19. Psammacheriles who succeeded Amasis. 
 
 20. Cauibyses the persian king , oppressor of Egypt 
 525 years B. C. His name appears on the same statue.
 
 1 88 Guide of Rome 
 
 21. Darius the successor of CambyseS. 
 
 22. Nectanebo of the XXIX dynasty three centuries 
 and a half B. C. and the last of the Pharaohs. To this pe- 
 riod belong the two lions , master pieces of art and the 
 beautiful torso which represents this king. 
 
 23. Ptolemy Philadelphus who reigned 284 years B. C. 
 His colossal statue is in the centre of the hall of lions. 
 
 24. Arsinoe, the wife .of the above named king, 
 whose statue is on the right of that of Ptolemy j both 
 statues bearing inscriptions on their pilasters. 
 
 25. Ptolemy Philopator whose name is on the papyrus 
 in the demotic characters, dating from the third year of 
 his reign or the 219 B. C. N.° XI , letter E. 
 
 26. Arsinoe his sister and wife. 
 
 27. 28. Ptolomy Evergetes and Berenice his wife , 
 the parents of the preceding. 
 
 The numerous monuments , not included in the above 
 list , might furnish documents of the reigns of the roman 
 empeiors. The space of sixteen hundred centuries com- 
 prised within the dates which have been already indi- 
 cated and inscribed on the monuments, the authenticity 
 of which reposes on the authority of historians and chro- 
 nicles , particularly that of Eusebius , rectified on the 
 armenian text far more exact that the greek of Scaliger, 
 is sufficient to show ibe rich mine of historical knowledge 
 opened by the egyplian writing, lis material construction 
 offers a large field for discussion on the first essays of 
 writing as an art , while it furnishes also a means of ad- 
 vancing the progress of oriental philology. 
 
 PAINTING. 
 
 Although in remote times painting was not distinct 
 
 from writing as several arguments attest respecting Egypt, 
 
 we shall consider them as independent of each other in 
 
 the monuments of that country. Painting as it was thirty
 
 Eighth (Imj. ^89 
 
 or forty centuries ago , exists in its original stale and ex- 
 cites surprise. When judging of this art in Egypt allowance 
 must be made for the harshness of the lines and the want 
 of perspective. The facility of the inventions and the spi- 
 rited composition are the striking points of these monu- 
 ments. An example of these is seen in the painting on the 
 case , placed in the hall of urns , in which was preserved 
 the mummy of Giotmul, the mother of Chons Hierogram- 
 maleus of Ammon at Thebes j one side represents the 
 funeral procession moving towards the Theban necro- 
 polisj on the other the deceased supplicates six of the gods, 
 in order to obtain a free passage to the celestial regions j 
 these he has finally attained as represented in the interior 
 part of the case, in company of his mother whose inscrip- 
 tion is on one of the paintings of the interior. The colour- 
 ing and the various scenes possess a high degree of inte- 
 rest. It was an established doctrine amongst the Egyptians 
 that the souls of the just enjoyed an unalterable repose 
 when they arrived in presence of the gods, but in a state 
 of uncertainty they believed that assistance might be de- 
 rived from the remembrance of the living j for this reason 
 the mother is seated near her son expressing joy at the 
 offerings and prayers of the surviving relatives, a rem- 
 nant of the primitive traditions of the human race relative 
 to a future state and to the assistance the living may render 
 to the dead. Each of these representations is accompained 
 with analogous hieroglyphic inscriptions. 
 
 Of the paintings on wood that of the son of Takel- 
 lothis is remarkable for the vivacity of its colouring; the 
 figures and various scenes which cover the papyri re- 
 present the rites and circumstances that precede and fol- 
 low the judgment that Osiris is supposed to pass on souls j 
 nor is the melancholy sight wanting of the punishments 
 suffered from fire and the furies , so accurately was the tra- 
 dition preserved relative to the destiny of souls when sepa-
 
 190 Guide of Rome 
 
 rated from the body. The representation on paintings VII , 
 letter A, Vlll and XIV relate to these subjects. 
 
 THE GALLERY OF PAINTINGS. 
 
 Contains several master pieces of art united in this 
 gallery by order of the reigning pontiff Gregory XVI. 
 
 The portrait of a venitian doge is by Titian. 
 
 The miracle performed by S. Gregory the great by 
 Andrea Sacchi. 
 
 The descent from the cross by Caravaggio, 
 
 The vision of S. Romuald by Sacchi. 
 
 Communion of S. Jerome by Domenichino« 
 
 Martyrdom of S. Erasmus by Poussin. 
 
 SS. Processus aud Martinian by Valentin. 
 
 Christ in the tomb by Manlegna. 
 
 The B. Virgin, S. Thomas and S. Jerome by Guido. 
 
 Magdalen , S. Thomas by Guercino. 
 
 Martyrdom of S. Peter by Guido. 
 
 Coronation of the B. Virgin by PInturicchio. 
 
 Resurrection of Christ : Birth of Christ by Perugino. 
 
 Transfiguration : Coronation of the B. Virgin : The 
 three mysteries , viz the Annunciation , Nativity and Pre- 
 sentation by Raphael. 
 
 Our Saviour by Correggio. 
 
 The B. Virgin , SS. Sebastian , Francis , Anthony , 
 Peter , Ambrose and Catherine by Titian. 
 
 B. Michelina of Pesaro by Barroccio. 
 
 S. Helen by Paul Veronese. 
 
 The B. Virgin , child , S. Joseph by Garofalo. 
 
 Madonna of Foligno by Raphael. 
 
 Landscape vpith animals by Potter. 
 
 Madonna , S. Laurence and others by Perugino. 
 
 Miracle of S. Nicholas of Bari by Angelo da Fiesole. 
 
 Annunciation by Barroccio.
 
 Eighth day. 1 9 1 
 
 CHAMBERS OF RAPHAEL. 
 
 The greater part of these chambers had been already 
 painted by SIgnorelli , Perugino and other artists , when 
 Julius 11 at the solicitation of Bramante invited Raphael 
 from Florence and ordered him to represent the dispute 
 on the holy Sacrament. 
 
 At the completion of the work , the pope dispensed 
 with the labours of the other artists , caused their paint- 
 ings to be effaced , and entrusted the execution to Ra- 
 phael alone. 
 
 These frescoes were neglected in past times , and 
 having suffered also from the damp , tliey no longer pre- 
 serve their original freshness of colouring, but iheir compo- 
 sition and design will ever form a subject of admiration. 
 
 The fire in the Borgo which happened in 847 is the 
 subject of the first fresco. It would appear that Raphael 
 was inspired by the poetic description of the burning of 
 Troy having introduced, among other episodes, that of 
 ^neas bearing Anchises on his shoulders and followed 
 by Creusa. 
 
 Over the window is the justification of S. Leo III in 
 presence of Charlemngne , the cardinals and archbishops. 
 
 The third fresco, represents the victory gained by 
 Leo IV over the Saracens at Ostia : the fourth the coro- 
 tion of Charlemagne by Leo III in the basilic of S. Peter's. 
 
 The paintings of the ceiling are by Pietro Perugino j 
 these out of respect for his master, Raphael would not 
 allow to be effaced. 
 
 THE SCHOOL OF ATHENS. 
 
 The scene is laid under the portico of a pnlacc. In ihe 
 middle of the upper steps are Plato and Ai islottlcs j on
 
 192 Guide of Rome 
 
 the right Socrates and Alcibiades j Diogenes holding a book 
 is on ihe second step ; Pythagoras surrounded by his dis- 
 ciples at the end on the right. 
 
 To some of the figures the artist has given the por- 
 traits of personages of his time: Archimedes is Bramante, 
 the young man with his hand on his breast the duke of 
 Urbino , the one kneeling the duke of Mantua , the two 
 on the left of Zoroaster are Pielro Perugino and Raphael 
 the latter wearing a black cap. 
 
 Opposite this painting is the dispute on the holy Sa- 
 crament. The B. Trinity , the Virgin and S. John Bap- 
 tist ; occupy the upper part ; at the sides of the altar are 
 the four doctors of the latin church , several of the fathers 
 and many saints of the old and new testament disputing 
 on this profound mystery. 
 
 In the painting of Parnassus , Apollo in the midst of 
 the nine Muses, is playing on the violin. Around the 
 mountain are several ancient and modern poets, Homer, 
 Horace , Virgil , Ovid , Ennius , Sappho , Propertius , 
 Dante , Bocaccio and Sannazaro. 
 
 Over the window Jurisprudence is represented as 
 assisted by Prudence , Fortitude and Temperance ; on the 
 sides are two historical subjects; the emperor Justinian 
 delivering the digest to Trebonian : Gregory IX the de- 
 cretals to a concislorial advocate. 
 
 The ceiling is divided into nine subjects. In the centre 
 angels support the arms of the church : in the rounds are 
 Philosopliy , Justice , Theology and Poetry. In the four 
 oblong paintings are represented Fortune, the judgment 
 of Solomon , Adam and Eve tempted by the serpent, 
 Marsyas flayed alive by Apollo. 
 
 CHAMBER OF IIELIODORUS. 
 
 Heliodorus, the prefect of Seleucus Philopalor king 
 of Syria , was ordered by this prince to plunder the
 
 Eighth day. 193 
 
 temple of Jerusalem , 176 years before the christian era. 
 While preparing for this sacrilege, God , al the prayer of 
 the high priest Oiiias , sent against him a horseman and 
 two angels armed with whips who drove him out of the 
 temple ; by an anachronism common to the painters of his 
 time Raphael introduced Julius 11 into the group which 
 he painted ; the other groups were finished by Pietro di 
 Cremona a pupil of Correggio and by Julio Romano. 
 
 In the painting opposite S. Leo 1 is represented on 
 his way to meet Atlila king of the Huns, whose intention 
 was to plunder Rome. Struck with terror , at the sight of 
 SS. Peter and Paul flying in the air with swords unsheat- 
 hed , Attila hastens to retreat. 
 
 The third fresco is the miracle of Bolsena j a priest 
 doubting of the real presence of Christ in the eucharist 
 which he was on the point of consecrating, saw blood on 
 the corporal. Julius 11 with other contemporary personages 
 is present at the mass. 
 
 The fourth represents S. Peter when the angel delivers 
 him from his chains and leads him out of prison. The 
 effects of light are admirably expressed in this picture , 
 that of the angel in the prison , differing from that of the 
 same angel out of it , and that of the moon from that of 
 the lighted torch held by the soldier. 
 
 The chiaroscuro of the ceiling is by Raphael. The 
 Caryatides by Polydore Caravaggio. 
 
 HALL OF CONSTANTINE. 
 
 Raphael , having completed the designs of this hall , 
 commenced the fresco intended to represent the victory 
 of Constanline over Maxentius near the Milvian bridge and 
 had finished the lateral figures of Justice and Benignity 
 when his earthly career was closed. 
 
 12
 
 194 Guide of Rome 
 
 After his death Julio Romano was charged by Cle- 
 ment VII with the execution of the work and painted the 
 apparition of the cross to Constantine. 
 
 In the fresco opposite Constantine is baptised by pope 
 S. Silvester ; the painting is by il Fattore. 
 
 Between the windows del Colle has represented , 
 from the cartoons of Raphael , the donation of Rome to 
 S. Silvester by Constantine. 
 
 The eight pontiffs on the sides of these paintings are 
 by Giulio Romano , the chiaroscuro by Caravaggio. The 
 ceiling by Lauretti , the other subjects by the two Zuccari. 
 
 On the ground floor of the palace is the manufactory 
 of mosaics containing upwards of ten thousand enamels 
 of different colours. 
 
 The gardens of the palace commenced under Ni- 
 cholas V were enlarged by Bramante under Julius II. In 
 a niche of the principal front is a large bronze pine apple, 
 found at the Pantheon. The villa built by Pius IV and re- 
 stored under Leo XII contains paintings by Baroccio and 
 Zuccari. 
 
 FROM MONTE MARIO. 
 
 On which is a villa belonging to the Falconieri fa- 
 mily, the view embraces Rome and the campagna. 
 
 The villa Madama formerly the property of Margaret, 
 daughter of Charles V, and now of the king of Naples , 
 was commenced on the designs of Raphael and finished 
 after his death by Giulio Romano who with the assistance 
 of Giovanni d' Udine painted the portico , the friese and 
 ceiling of the principal hall. These works are in a state 
 of decay.
 
 1W5 
 
 xxncient Rome was supplied with water from fourteen 
 different springs, only three of which remain: the Vergine, 
 Felice and Paolina , but these afi'ord a quantity of water 
 sufficient for the use of the inhabitants , for the ornament 
 of the oily, and for 108 public, and the incalculable num- 
 ber of private fountains which it contains. 
 
 THE AQUA VERGINE. 
 
 Supplies 13 large and 37 small founlains|, from a vo- 
 lume estimated at 1617 roman oncie, which pours into 
 the city 06,000 cubic metres every twenty four hours. 
 
 THE AQUA FELICE. 
 
 Takes its rise in a hill called Castelletto , near la 
 Colonna , 16 miles distant , and enters the city near the 
 Anfitealro Castrense, where its level is about 48 metres 
 over that of the river. One of its branches takes the direc- 
 tion of S. Maria Maggiore j the other that of Termini , the 
 Quirinal , Piazza Barberini and Capitol ; it then descends 
 into the Forum to the Bocca della Yerita and the piazza 
 Giudea , after having furnished in its course wafer for 
 27 public and an immense number of private fountians. 
 
 It produces 1027 inches, or 20,537 cubic metres 
 every twenty four hours.
 
 196 Aqueducts. 
 
 ^J AQUA PAOLINA. '^^ 
 
 The consUaiclion of this aqueduct was commenced 
 and completed by Paul V, of the Borghese family, who 
 confided its execution to Gio. Fonlana. An ancient aque- 
 duct of Trajan, was brought into use for the passage of the 
 waters from the lake of Bracciano, a distance of 22 miles. 
 An encrease , from the same lake , was introduced by 
 Clement X , another under Leo XII , from the Straccia- 
 cappe and Alseatine lakes. 
 
 These waters unite on the Janiculum where they di- 
 vide into two branches; one descends towards the Vatican, 
 the borgo and piazza S. Pietro : the other into Trastevere, 
 after having left a volume of 180 inches at the Paolina 
 fountain. A body of 282 inches passes through the ponte 
 Sislo , to the fountain , and thence disperses itself in the 
 via Giulia and vicinity. 
 
 The Paolina furnishes 4709 inches , or 94,000 cubic 
 metres every twenty four hours. 
 
 The three aqueducts , if united , would present a 
 length of 108,000 metres, equal to 27 french leagues j 
 the volume of water with which they supply Rome 
 amounts to 9025 inches, or 180,500 cubic metres every 
 twenty four hours.
 
 197 
 
 It is justly observed in the Library of entertaining know- 
 ledge vol. I , p. 269 :• « that of all the works of egyptian 
 art, for the simplicity of their form, their size and unity, 
 and the beauty of their sculptured decorations , none can 
 be put in comparison with the obelisks. That as lasting 
 records of lliose ancient monarchs, whose names and titles 
 are sculptured on them, they possess a high historical 
 value, which is encreased by the fact that some of the 
 most remarkable of these venerable monuments now adorn 
 the Roman capital. The Crcsars seem lo have vied with one 
 another in transporting these enormous blocks from their 
 native soil, and since the revival of the study of antiquities 
 in Rome several of her enlightened pontiffs and particularlv 
 Sixius Vand Pius VI have again erected those which had 
 fallen down, and were lying on the ground in fragments* . 
 
 The obelisks were erected by the egylian kings be- 
 fore the conquest of their country by Cambyses of Persia. 
 As their example was followed by the Plolomies and 
 Romans , these monuments belong lo three different 
 epochs. The Flaminian , Lateran and Monte Citorio obe- 
 lisks are acknowledged from their designs and inscriptions 
 to be of the first epoch, that of the Pharaohs. 
 
 We shall proceed to give a brief description of the 
 twelve obelisks of different dimensions which now deco- 
 rate the city. 
 
 THE FLAMINIAN OBELISK. 
 
 Is situated in the centre of the piazza del Popolo : this 
 obelisk is 74 feel high, exclusively of its pedestal , it is 
 covered with hieroglyphics. It was originally erected at
 
 1 98 Obelisks. 
 
 Heliopolis , in Lower Egypt by Rhamses III, or the great 
 Sesostris , as a decoration of the temple of the Sun to 
 whom it was dedicated. The name of this monarch re- 
 peated several times in the cartouches , proves the exact- 
 ness of Ammlauus Marcellinus who has inserted in his 
 writings a part of the inscriptions translated byHermapion. 
 After the battle of Aclium and^he conquest of Egypt, 
 Augustus transported this obelisk to Rome and placed it 
 in the circus maximus. In 1587 Sixtus V transferred it, 
 though broken into three parts , to its present position , 
 where it was erected by Dometiico Fontana. 
 
 OBELISK AT MONTE CITORIO. 
 
 This obelisk erected at Heliopolis by Psammeticus I, 
 king of Egypt , whose name is frequently repeated in the 
 hieroglyphics , was brought to Rome by Augustus who 
 placed it in the campus martius where it served as a 
 sun dial. It was found under Benedict XIV in 1748 and 
 placed in its present position in the XVIII year of Pius VI. 
 It is of red granite and is 68 feet high exclusively of the 
 modern pedestal which is 13. 
 
 The sculptures on the west side are nearly all erased. 
 Beneath the base of the pyramidal top we have the 
 crowned hawk , a pair on each side , with a serpent 
 behind each attached to a globe. There are only two va- 
 rieties of cartouches , one containing the praenomen and 
 the other the name. 
 
 On another face of the pyramidal top is a sphinx , 
 without a beard , reclining on an altar. On the south face 
 the god Re , the sun , with the hawk's head is seated 
 opposite the reclining sphinx. On the east face , Osiris is 
 opposite to the same figure. The vertical angle of the py- 
 ramidal faces contains the scarabaeus sacer with a large 
 disk, almost touching two curved extremities of its wings.
 
 Obelisks. 1 99 
 
 LA.TERAN OBELISK. 
 
 This obelisk , the largest in Rome , was erected at 
 Thebes by Theulmosis II king of Egypt as is ascertained 
 from the cartouches that bear his name. It was transported 
 from Thebes to Alexandria by Constantine, and thence by 
 his son Constantius to Rome where it was raised in the 
 circus maximus. It was found at a depth of 22 feet under 
 ground , broken into three pieces , but was restored by 
 Domenico Fonlana the architect of Sixtus Y. It is of syene 
 granite covered with hieroglyphics and 99 feet in height 
 without the pedestal. The surface distinctly exhibits traces 
 of fire. The original inscription is contained in six ver- 
 tical lines. 
 
 SALLUSTIAN OBELISK. 
 
 This obelisk found in the gardens of Sallust was 
 raised opposite the church of the Trinita de' Monti by 
 Pius VI in 1789. It is of egyplian granite and is 44 feet 
 high without the pedestal. 
 
 THE PANTHEON OBELISK. 
 
 Placed in the centre of this piazza by Clement XI was 
 found in digging the foundations of the convent of the 
 church of the Minerva on the spot where the temple of 
 Isis and Seiapis once stood. It is covered with hierogly- 
 phics. A fountain surrounds its base. Its height is about 
 19 feet. 
 
 THE MINERVA OBELISK. 
 
 Found near that above mentioned was erected here 
 by Bernini under AlexBnder YII on the back of a
 
 200 Obelisks. 
 
 marble elephant. Its height does not exceed 12 1/2 feet. 
 The hieroglyphics attest that it was raised by Psamme- 
 tichus II of (he XXYl dynasty to Neilh , the same goddess 
 as the Minerva of the Greeks and Romans. 
 
 THE NAVONA OBELISK. 
 
 Whose height is 51 feet was erected by Bernini under 
 Innocent X on the top of a rock , which is about 41 feet 
 above the level of the soil. It was found in the circus, 
 commonly called of Caracalla, beyond the gale of S. Se- 
 bastian , and was originally dedicated , as is proved by 
 the hieroglyphics , to the emperor Domilian. 
 
 THE VATICAN OBELISK. 
 
 Of siene granite is said to have been raised at He- 
 liopolis by Nuncoreus son of Sesostris and was brought 
 to Rome by Caligula who placed it in his circus near the 
 Vatican where it remained untouched , during all the vi- 
 cissitudes of the city; in the year 1586 it was erected on 
 the spot it now occupies under Sixtus V by his architect 
 Domenico Fontaua. 
 
 It is without hieroglyphics; is 72 feet high , 8 feet 4 
 inches in its largest diameter and 126 feel high from the 
 ground to the cross. 
 
 On its base is engraved an inscription purporting 
 that it was dedicated by Caligula to Augustus and Tiberius. 
 
 OBELISKS AT S. MARIA MAGGIORE 
 AND AT MONTE CAVALLO. 
 
 These obelisks were brought to Rome by the emperor 
 Claudius who placed them before the mausoleum of Au- 
 gustus. The former was erected by Sixtus V, under the 
 
 i
 
 Obelisks. 20 1 
 
 direction of D. Fontana, the latter by Pius YI. They are 
 of red granite , wilhout liieroglyphics and 43 feel high. 
 
 PINCIAN OBELISK. 
 
 The hieroglyphics of this obelisk present an eulogiuin 
 of Antinous, the favorite of Adrian. It was found in the 
 circus of Aurelian beyond the porta Maggiore in the time 
 of Urban YllI , and was raised on the Pincian hill in 1825 
 under Pius Yll. Its height in 28 feet without the pedestal. 
 
 The obelisk of the villa Maltei was discovered near 
 the temple of Isis and Serapis, the upper part alone is an- 
 tique, the hieroglyphics on the lower part are an imitation. 
 
 The quarries of the syene granite, the material of 
 which the theban obelisks were made , extend from the 
 island of Philae along the whole line of the cataracts, the 
 northern point of Elephantine forming their limit in that 
 direction. This red granite is known by its beautiful colour 
 and owing to its hardness it receives ihe fine polish obser- 
 vable on the roman obelisks. 
 
 12*
 
 202 
 
 OF THE EIXVIROIXS. 
 
 J\s the environs of Rome excite interest from the beauty 
 of their situation, the associations of history, and the re- 
 mains of their antique monuments a short description 
 is given of the principal places viz : Tivoli Palestrina 
 Frascati Albano and Veii. 
 
 ROAD TO TIVOLI. 
 
 About a mile from the porta S. Lorenzo is the basilic 
 of that name vfhich has already been described. 
 
 At the fourth mile is the Anio , now called Teverone, 
 which separates Latium from the Sabine territory , and 
 unites with the Tiber near the Salarian bridge , 3 miles 
 from the city. 
 
 At the tenth mile are seen remains of the Tiburtine 
 way, formed like the other roman roads, of large poly- 
 gonal lilocks of basaltic lava. 
 
 About the 12lh mile is the tarlarous lake, an ap- 
 pellation derived from the quality of its tarlarous and cal- 
 careous waters which petrify vegetables. 
 
 SOLFATARA BRIDGE. 
 
 Tlie waters that pass under this little bridge are of a 
 bluish colour and exhale a strong sulphureous smell. These 
 waters called albulaj by Strabo , Pausanias and Martial 
 issue from a lake, about a mile from the road, which was 
 formerly a mile in circuit, but at the present day its ave-
 
 Itinerary of the environs. 203 
 
 rage diameter does not exceed 450 feet. The bituminous 
 substances formed by these waters are condensed on their 
 surface, and give rise to different shaped bodies called 
 floating islands. In the neighbourhood of the lake were the 
 thermse of Agrippa of which some remains still exist. 
 
 TOMB OF THE PLAUTIAN FAMILY. 
 
 This sepulchral monument was raised by the Plautii, 
 one of the great roinan families under the republic and 
 the empire. It is built of travertine stone , in a round 
 form and has half columns on the exterior with inscrip- 
 tions , two of which remain , one of M. Plautius Silvanus 
 consul and VU vir of the epulones , distinguished by his 
 exploits in lllyria3 the other of T. Plautius Silvanus who 
 accompanied Claudius in his expedition to Britain. The 
 constructions at the top prove that in the middle ages it 
 was converted into a tower of defence. 
 
 VILLA ADRIANA. 
 
 The emperor Adrian , having visited the different 
 parts of the empire, decided on imitating in this villa all 
 those buildings that had pleased him most in his travels. 
 The lyceum , academy, prytaneum and psecile of Athens, 
 the valley of Tempe , the canope of Alexandria , tartarus, 
 the elysian fields. 
 
 In the middle ages the villa was greatly injured. 
 Under Martin V some of its marbles and statues were 
 broken and used as mortar. Excavations among the ruins 
 have , however J at all times produced classic monuments 
 now the principal ornament of the museums and galleries 
 of Rome. The villa was about seven miles in circumfe- 
 rence. Its chief remains arc
 
 204 Itinerary of the environs. 
 
 THE GREEK THEATRE. 
 
 Which is the best preserved of the three that existed 
 here; we may still trace a part of the scena, the corridors 
 and the place of the steps. 
 
 Annexed to the theatre on the west are remains of a 
 large square court which was surrounded with porticos. 
 
 Near the modern house , built of ancient substruc- 
 tions , is a passage on the roof of which are stuccoes and 
 paintings of exquisite taste. 
 
 PiECILE. 
 
 Pausanias informs us that the psecile of Athens was a 
 portico decorated with paintings relative to Athenian ex- 
 ploits. The portico of the villa was an oblong parallel- 
 logram in the centre of which was a large courl. A wall 
 still entire, which was betvrecn a double row of pilasters, 
 was probably painted like the buildings at Athens. 
 
 To the south of this wall is what is called the temple 
 of the stoics, said to have been lined with porphyry, and 
 further on is a round edifice with a mosaic pavement re- 
 presenting sea monsters ; this place was used for exercises 
 in swimming. 
 
 To the left are the ruins of the library. 
 
 The imperial palace situated on an elevation is com- 
 posed of two stories. On the ground floor are several re- 
 mains of paintings, on the upper story is a large quadran- 
 gular portico communicating with the palace. 
 
 A number of rooms called the cento camerclle served 
 formerly as barracks for the pretorian guards. On the ex- 
 terior were galleries resting on pilasters or columns j the . 
 communication with each room was by means of the gal- 
 lery, as in the con veals of the present day.
 
 Itinerary of (he environs. 205 
 
 CANOPE. 
 
 This building, so called from the city of Canope in 
 Egypt , conlained a temple of Serapis , several rooms and 
 a painted gallery are still visible. 
 
 On tlic riglil are remains of the academy and of a 
 theatre. The four subterraneous corridors, forming a rec- 
 tangle , v\^cre a part of the infernal regions. In the vicinity 
 were the elysian fields, the valley of Tempo and the Pcneus. 
 
 TIVOLI. 
 
 This town, the foundation of which is allributed 
 to Tibur, Corax and Catillus of Argos, was built 462 
 years before Rome after the expulsion of the Siculi from 
 the territories which ihey then occupied. It was called 
 Tibur from the name of the Argean chief, was allied with, 
 though sometimes opposed to, the Romans in the early 
 times of the republic ; subsequently under the Romans it 
 was a municipal town. 
 
 TEMPLE OF VESTA. 
 
 This ancient edifice of a fine style of archilecfure is 
 of a circular form 12 1/2 feet in diameter; its columns are 
 18 feet in height without the capital which is ornamented 
 with leaves of the acanthus. It had originally 18 columns 
 of the Corinthian order in travertine 10 of which remain. 
 Its situation on the top of a rock , on the border of an 
 extensive valley, is highly picturesque. 
 
 Adjoining it is the temple of the Tiburline sibyl , 
 built of travertine, with four jonic columns in front. It is 
 'DOW the church of S. Giorgio. 
 
 12**
 
 206 Itinerary of the environ?. 
 
 Opposite these temples Is the new emissary perfo- 
 rated in the Monte Calilk) 294 metres long and 25 broad 
 at its mouth; the waters pass through this channel and 
 on the brink of the valley form a beautiful cascade. 
 
 In the picturesque grotto of the Sirens the waters 
 disappear for a time in a subterranean channel. 
 
 The grotto of Neptune since the deviation of the 
 courseof the Auio, no longer receives any supply of water. 
 
 CASCATELLE. 
 
 The streams of the Anio are used in the iron , copper 
 and other works which are carried on at Tivoli and pre- 
 cipitate themselves from a height of 100 feet into the 
 valley below, winding over rocks bounded "with trees and 
 meadows that produce a most picturesque effect. 
 
 Opposite and bordering the path leading to the valley, 
 are the villa of Catullus, the church of S. Antonio built 
 on the ruins of a villa said to have belonged to Horace and 
 half a mile further on the chapel of Quintiliolo, dedicated 
 to the B. Virgin. It stands on the remains of the villa of 
 Quintilius Varus , in which were formerly found statues, 
 columns and a variety of mosaics. 
 
 Crossing the Aquoria, a rivulet at the bottom of the 
 valley, over an ancient bridge in good preservation , and 
 the Anio over a wooden bridge, the return to Tivoli is by 
 tiie ancient via Tiburlina. 
 
 ■VI"LLA OF MEC^ENAS. 
 
 Among the ruins it is easy to distinguish a large 
 sqviare court which was surrounded with half columns 
 of the doric order and arcades communicating with a por- 
 tico and a double row of chambers looking over the valley. 
 These are built over a large subterraneous hall, called
 
 Itinerary of the environs. 207 
 
 the stable but supposed to have been a reservoir. A rapid 
 torrent passes through a canal and in its fall from the 
 mountain contributes to form the cascades. From the ter- 
 race the view embraces Rome and the campagna. 
 
 In a neighbouring vineyard is an edifice called the 
 temjiio dalla Tosse adapted as a cliurch in the middle ages. 
 It appears to advantage in the tnidst of trees and vineyards. 
 
 Near the romnn gate is the villa D'Este , built by a 
 cardinal of ihe D'Este family in 1549, formerly one of 
 the most splendid villas of Italy. It contains frescoes by 
 Zuccari, Rluziano and other astists of those days, allusive 
 to the history of Tivoli. 
 
 At a distance of ten miles on the Valerian way , is 
 Yicovaro or Yaria the ruins of which consist of remains 
 of an ancient bridge over which passed the aqua t.iaudia 
 and of large travertine blocks forming the walls of the 
 city. Five miles further on Is Licenza, the ancient Di;.;cnlia 
 near which was the Sabine farm of Horace celebii.'ed ia 
 his verses. 
 
 Twelve miles from Tivoli and twenty from Rome is 
 
 PALESTRINA OR PRvENITSTE. 
 
 A city founded according to Yirgil by Cseculus son of 
 Vulcan, according to others by Prseneslus son of king 
 Latinus prior to the Trojan war. Its elevated situation and 
 good air rendered it a point of attraction to the ancient 
 Romans. It was celebrated also for ils temple of Fortune 
 restored and enlarged byL. Sylla, which occupied the 
 whole site of the present town. 
 
 Palestrina was destroyed in the XV century, but was 
 rebuilt on the ruins of this temple , when a mosaic pave- 
 ment was discovered which is now in the Barbcrini palace 
 at Palestrina.
 
 208 Itinerary of the environs. 
 
 This celebrated work represents sundry animals and 
 plants , a tent willi soldiers , egyptian figures playing on 
 n)usical instruments , others occupied with the labors 
 of agriculture. Of several interpretations given of this 
 woik the most probable is that the subject alludes to the 
 festivals established in Egypt under the Greek kings at 
 the period of the inundation of the Nile. 
 
 Near la Colonna eight miles from this town , is a 
 lake falsely said to be the Regillus where the battle took 
 place between the Latins and Romans which decided the 
 fate of Tarquin. 
 
 Some miles distat;l in the farm called Panlauo is the 
 lake of Casliglioue 5 formerly Gabinus , near the ancient 
 city of Gabii discovered in 1 792. The only remains are the 
 cella of the temple of Juno and square blocks of the local 
 volcanic stone which formed the walls of the citadel, 
 
 FRASCATI. 
 
 Owes its origin to the destruction of Tusculum by 
 the Romans in 1191 5 the modern town contains nothing 
 remarkable, but the numerous villas in its environs and the 
 excursion to the ruins of Tusculum are highly interesting. 
 
 The most splendid of these villas are the Aldobran- 
 dini and Mondragone belonging to the Borghesi , the Ru- 
 fiuella to the queen of Sardinia , the Conti and Falconieri. 
 Tusculum said to have been founded by Telegonus a son 
 of Ulysses and Circe, was a favorite residence of the 
 Romans in the latter times of the republic. In an elevated' 
 position are the remains of a theatre, baths, an aqueduct 
 and walls 5 several statues, busts and other works of art 
 found in the excavations attest its ancient splendour. 
 
 Grotta Ferrata is a small village with a church in 
 which Domenichino has represented in fresco several acts 
 of S. Barlolomew and S. Nilus who retired to this spot 
 
 1
 
 Itinerary of the environs. 205 
 
 aboul llie year 1000; The painling over the altar is Ly 
 Annibalc Caracci. 
 
 Two miles from tliis village is Rlarino , formally 
 Gastro iiicenium an ancient city of Lalinm mentioned by 
 Dionysius of lialicarnassiis and Pliny. The church of 
 S. Barnabas possesses a painling of the martyrdom of 
 S. Barlulomew in the first manner of Guerciiio. That of 
 the holy Trinity one by Guido. The Albano gale leads to 
 the Ferentiiie valley, so called from the goddess of that 
 name , where the people of Lalium held their national as- 
 semblies before their subjugation by the Romans. 
 
 CASTEL GANDOLFO. 
 
 Is agreeably situated on the lake of that name which , 
 in very remote times, was the crater of a volcano. Its 
 circuit is about six miles, its depth 480 ieet. On the oc- 
 casion of an extraordinary swell of the waters 594 years 
 l>efore the christian era, the Romans then occupied with 
 the siege of Veii , sent deputies to Delphi to consult the 
 oracle of the pythian Apollo who answered that Veii could 
 not be taken unless the waters of this 1 dte were reduced 
 their level. Having decided on perforating the mountain 
 the work was carried on with such activity that within a 
 year they completed the canal which is a mile long, 3 i/i 
 feet wide and six high. It is chiselled out of the rock and 
 has never required any repair. 
 
 ALBANO. 
 
 Alba Lunga is said to have been built about 400 years 
 before Rome by Ascanius the son of ^neas , between the 
 mountain and the lake in the direction of the present Pa- 
 lazzola J it was destroyed by Tullius llostilius. During the 
 second punic war a camp , protecting the Appian way ,
 
 210 Itinerary of the environs. 
 
 was estaijlislied on the site of Albano which became a 
 cily at the decline of the empire. 
 
 On ihe left of the via Appia before entering the gate, 
 is a large tomb stript of its ornaments, containing a room 
 1 1 feet long and 7 wide. It is commonly called the tomb 
 of Ascanius^, but being situated on the grounds that for- 
 med the villa of Pompey it is more probable that it was 
 raised by tliat general to receive the ashes of Julia his 
 wife, the daughter of Caesar j according to Plutarch it 
 was also the tomb of Pompey. 
 
 Neai' the church of the Madonna della Stellia is anoth- 
 er large tomb raised on a square base 55 feet in circum- 
 ference. In the centre was a pedestal serving as the base 
 of a statue and at e;ich angle a round pyramid. It was 
 imagined thai this lonib had been rai&ed to the Horatii and 
 Guriati! , but it is related by Livy that they were Ijuried 
 on the spot where they fell between the Latin and, Appian 
 waj^s at a distance of about five miles from Rome. The 
 architecture of this monument is of a far more remote pe- 
 riod j it was probably, raised to Aruns the son of Porsenna 
 who was killed near this spot when attacking A.ricia in the 
 year 217 of Rome , or 60t5 before the christian era. 
 
 A mile from Albano is the village of Aricia preserv- 
 ing tiie name of the city built in the plain by Archilochus 
 1400 years before our era. Some of its ruins may be seen 
 ia a vineyard called , Ortodi mezzo , on the via A-ppiaj 
 they consist of the cella of the temple of Diana, of walls 
 formed of irregular blocks, of the emissary communicat- 
 ing with the citadel and remains of baths. 
 
 Dionysius Halicarnassus observes in the 11 book of 
 iiis roman antiquities; uTbe third war which he (Romulus) 
 s.U5laijied was against a city then one of the most powerful
 
 Itinerary of the environs. 2 1 i 
 
 of the elruscan nalion called Veii dislanl from Rome about 
 100 sladj ; it is situated on a sleep rock and is of about the 
 same size as Athens*. 100 sladj are 12 1/2 miles. In anoth- 
 er passage the same author adds that this was one of the 
 etruscan cities the nearest to Rome; that it was on the via 
 Cassia or Claudia is proved by the Penlingerian chart 
 which thus disposes the slallons on this road : Roma ad 
 ponlemlll, ad Sextum III , Vejos YI : a distance cor- 
 responding exactly with that of Dionysius. 
 
 At a mile to the east of la Slorla over a hill sepa- 
 rated from the plain by two rivulets which united form 
 the Cremera was situaled Veii as was proved by the ex- 
 cavations made in 1810 when a tomb and several frag- 
 ments of statues were found. The citadel and one of the 
 wings of the town occupied the Isola Farnese , a fortress 
 in the middle ages , now a farm. The softness of the rock 
 explains the work of the mine which decided the fate of the 
 place after its ten years siege. 
 
 The isola presents the appearance of a deserted vil- 
 lage with a population of about 40 souls. At the gale 
 called the Portonaccio are various fragments of sculpture. 
 The church of S. Pancrazio divided into three naves is of 
 the XV century. Many square stones found in the castle 
 probably belonged to the walls of the ancient citadel. 
 
 A path which from the fragments of ils pavement ap- 
 pears to be antique leads on the right to the ancient town ; 
 on the left are steep rocks , on the right a deep precipice 
 formed by the rivulet called the Fosso dell' isola , which 
 about half a mile further on forms a cataract of about 50 
 feet in a most picturesque situation. Beyond this cataract 
 an ancient road of the etruscan Veii, six feet broad, lends 
 to an extensive plain where fragments of worked marble 
 and of bricks indicate the spot , once inhabited, enclosed 
 in the etruscan city; the roman Veii was situated near 
 the forest where the laic discoveries were madej this spot
 
 212 Iltnerary of the environs. 
 
 presents numerous fragments of vases painted with varnisTi 
 on a black and red ground and of a very fine clay probably 
 the v^rork of the primitive Veians. Of the buildings found 
 in the last excavations one deserves observation , an an- 
 cient roman columbarium, called by the peasants the ceme- 
 lerio , composed of three rooms one of which only is open. 
 It contains several tombs and funenary inscriptions; near 
 ihe columbarium were discovered the statue of Tiberius 
 now in the Vatican , that of Germanicus 9 palms high , 
 many busts, fragments of architecture, 24 columns belong- 
 ing to the same edifice probably a basilic , near which 
 was the forum, as Vitruvius informs us that such was their 
 relative position in the italian cities. It has been ascertained 
 from inscriptions that at Veil there was a temple of Mars 
 and from the excavations that Castor and Pollux , Piety 
 and the Genius of the city were honoured at Yeii. 
 
 In its primitive state and before its capture by Ca- 
 millus the city must have extended to ponte Sodo j and 
 the forest now covers its ruins. In proceeding to this 
 bridge and before arriving at the Cremera the remains of 
 a road which at intervals is intercepted by square masses 
 of tuffo indicate the ancient walls of the city and lead to 
 the Cremera called the fosso di Formello and fosso del Valca 
 which unites with the Tlljer. Beyond the Cremera is the 
 ponte iSodo , so named from its solidity being cut out of 
 the rock , a work of the etruscan Veians. 
 
 Without returning to the isola it is easy to reach the 
 via Cassia at the Osteria del fosso after having crossed the 
 Cremera by following a direction to the west near the spot 
 where the late excavations have been made. On the right 
 of the road many etrusean tombs are seen in the rock in 
 which small vases painted on a dark ground are conti- 
 nually discovered. 
 
 d
 
 213 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Albano 
 
 pag. 209 
 
 Amphiiealre Caslrense 
 
 62 
 
 Anio river 
 
 202 
 
 Aparlment Borgia 
 
 164 
 
 Aqueducts 
 
 195 
 
 Arch of Conslanline 
 
 53 
 
 Dolabella 
 
 55 
 
 Drusus 
 
 121 
 
 Galienus 
 
 66 
 
 Janus quadrifons 
 
 115 
 
 Septimius Severus (forum) 
 
 40 
 
 Seplimius Severus (Velabrum) 
 
 116 
 
 Titus 
 
 45 
 
 Aricia 
 
 210 
 
 Baptistry of Constanline 
 
 58 
 
 Basilic of Constanline 
 
 44 
 
 Bridges S. Angelo or jElian 
 
 151 
 
 S. Bartholomew or Gralian 
 
 136 
 
 Milvio or MoUe 
 
 1 
 
 Palatine 
 
 133 
 
 Quattro Capi or Fabrician 
 
 134 
 
 Salarian 
 
 88 
 
 Sixtus 
 
 145 
 
 Sublician 
 
 130 
 
 Vatican 
 
 150 
 
 Campus Marlius 
 
 100 
 
 Sceleratus 
 
 89 
 
 Capitol 
 
 17 
 
 Castel Gandolfo 
 
 209
 
 2 1 4 Index. 
 
 Chambers of Raphael pag. 163 
 
 Chapel Sixtine 162 
 
 Pauline 163 
 
 Circus of Alexander Severus 8 
 
 Caracalla 124 
 
 Flaminiaa 111 
 
 Maximus 117 
 
 Romulus 124 
 
 Sallust 89 
 
 Cloaca maxima 116 
 
 CoUegio Romano 8 
 
 Colosseum 50 
 
 Colossus of Nero . 50 
 
 Column of Antoninus 7 
 
 Phocas 41 
 
 Trajan 73 
 
 Church of S. Adrian 41 
 
 S. Agnes extra muros 83 
 
 S. Agnes piazza Navoua 109 
 
 S. Alexius 131 
 
 S. Andrew dalle Fratte 92 
 
 S. Andrew della Yalle 110 
 
 S. ApoUinare 106 
 
 the holy Apostles 76 
 
 Aracceli 26 
 
 S. Augustin 105 
 
 S. Bartolomeo "136 
 
 S. Bibiana 64 
 
 Capuchin 90 
 
 S. Cecilia 136 
 
 S. Charles via Catinari 1 45 
 
 S. Charles via Corso 4 
 
 S. Catherina de' Funari 112 
 
 S. Chrysogon 138
 
 Index. 
 
 215 
 
 Church of S. Clement 
 
 pag. 57 
 
 S. Conslanlia 
 
 84 
 
 Holy Cross of Jerusalem 
 
 61 
 
 S. Denis 
 
 79 
 
 S. Euseblus 
 
 64 
 
 S. Eustachio 
 
 104 
 
 S. Francesca Romana 
 
 45 
 
 S. Francesco a Ripa 
 
 137 
 
 Gesu e Maria 
 
 4 
 
 S. Giacomo 
 
 4 
 
 S. Giovanni de' Fiorentini 
 
 149 
 
 S. Giuseppe 
 
 35 
 
 S. Gregory 
 
 64 
 
 Jesus 
 
 14 
 
 S. Ignatius 
 
 8 
 
 S. John Laleran 
 
 58 
 
 SS. John and Paul 
 
 55 
 
 S. Isidore 
 
 90 
 
 S. Laurence in Damaso 
 
 145 
 
 S. Laurence extra muros 
 
 65 
 
 S- Laurence in Lucina 
 
 5 
 
 S. Louis 
 
 104 
 
 S. Luke 
 
 40 
 
 S. Marcello 
 
 10 
 
 S. Mark 
 
 14 
 
 S. Marline 
 
 68 
 
 S. Mary deg 1' Angel i 
 
 81 
 
 S. Mary dell'Anima 
 
 108 
 
 S. Mary in Aquiro 
 
 101 
 
 S. Mary Avenlina 
 
 131 
 
 S. Mary in Campitelli 
 
 112 
 
 S. Mary in Cosmedin 
 
 152 
 
 S. Mary in Domnica 
 
 56 
 
 S. Mary of Lorelo 
 
 75
 
 2 1 6 Index. 
 
 Church of S. Mary Magdalen peg. 100 
 
 S. Mary Major 66 
 
 S. Mary on the Minerva 104 
 
 S. Mary of the Miracoli 4 
 
 S. Mary della Morfe 148 
 
 S. Mary in Navicella 56 
 
 S. Mary della Pace 107 
 
 S. Mary at the Popolo 2 
 
 S. Mary della Scala 139 
 
 S. Mary in Traspontina 152 
 
 S. Mary in Trastevere 137 
 
 S. Mary in Via Lata 10 
 
 S. Mary at the Vittoria 83 
 
 S. Michele 137 
 
 SS. Nereus and Achilleus 119 
 
 S. Nicolo di Tolentino 90 
 
 Chiesa Nuova 107 
 
 S. Onofrio 114 
 
 S. Paul's extra muros 127 
 
 S. Paul's at the three fountains 128 
 
 S. Peter's at Montorio 139 
 
 S. Peter's at the Yatican 153 
 
 S. Peter's in Vincoli 70 
 
 S. Prassede 68 
 
 S. Prisca 132 
 
 S. Pudentiana 69 
 
 S. Roch 98 
 
 the Rotunda see Pantheon 101 
 
 S. Sabina 131 
 
 S. Salvator in Lauro 106 
 
 S. Sebastian 122 
 
 S. Silvester in Capite 5 
 
 S. Silvester at the Quirinal 78 
 
 S. Stefano rotondo 56
 
 Index. 2 1 7 
 
 Church of Trinila de' Monti pag. 92 
 
 Trinila of the Pilgrims 145 
 
 Curia Hostilia 42 
 
 of Pompey 111 
 
 Field of the Horatii and Curialii 125 
 
 Fountain of the Acqua Vergine 91 
 
 of the Capitol 20 
 
 Felice 80 
 
 Pauline 140 
 
 of Piazza Navona 108 
 
 of the Quirinal 77 
 
 of the Tarlarughe 112 
 
 ofTrevi 91 
 
 Forum of Antoninus 7 
 
 of Augustus 38 
 
 Boarium 115 
 
 of Caesar 38 
 
 of Nerva 72 
 
 Olilorium 114 
 
 Palladium 72 
 
 Roman 37 
 
 Trajan 73 
 
 Frascali 208 
 
 Galleries Albani 85 
 
 Barberini 91 
 
 Borghese 98 
 
 of the Capitol 21 
 
 Chigi 6 
 
 Colonna 75 
 
 Corsini 141 
 
 Doria li 
 
 Farnese 146 
 
 Farnesina 142 
 
 of S. Luke 40
 
 218 Index. 
 
 Galleries Rospigliosi pag. 78 
 
 Sciarra 9 
 
 Spada 1 47 
 
 Vatican 162 
 
 Gardens of Sallust 89 
 
 Gates Appiau or S. Sebastian 121 
 
 Asinaria 60 
 
 Capena 1 20 
 
 S. John 60 
 
 Labican 62 
 
 Maggione 62 
 
 Oslia or S. Paul 128 
 
 S. Pancrazio 140 
 
 Pia 83 
 
 of the Popolo or Flaminian 2 
 
 Portese 137 
 
 Preneslina 63 
 
 Salaria 85 
 
 S. Spirito 144 
 
 Tiburtine or S. Lorenzo 65 
 
 Grsecoslatis. 41 
 
 Grotta Ferrata 208 
 
 Grotto of Egeria 1 20 
 
 Hospital of S. Michael's 137 
 
 the Isle of the Tiber 135 
 
 of S. Spirito 144 
 
 House of Niccola di Rienzo 133 
 
 of Raphael 107 
 
 Janus Quadrifrons H5 
 
 Island of the Tiber 135 
 
 Loggie of Raphael 163 
 
 Marino 209 
 
 Meta Sudans 49 
 
 Monte Cavallo 77
 
 Index. 219 
 
 Monte Citorio pag. 7 
 
 Mario 194 
 
 Testaccio 129 
 
 Mount Aventine 130 
 
 Capitoline 17 
 
 C'lfilius 54 
 
 Janiculum 139 
 
 Palatine 47 
 
 Pincio 2 
 
 Quirinal 77 
 
 Sacred 85 
 
 Monument of Servillus 125 
 
 Museum Cnpitol. 21 
 
 Yalican. 165 
 
 Obelisks. 197 
 
 Oratory of SS. Peter and Paul 149 
 
 Palace Altemps. 106 
 
 Barberini 91 
 
 Borghese 98 
 
 Rraschi 109 
 
 of the Caesars 47 
 
 Caucelleria 145 
 
 Chigi 6 
 
 Colonna 75 
 
 of the Conservators 27 
 
 Corsini 141 
 
 Costaguti 112 
 
 Doria 1 1 
 
 Falconieri 148 
 
 Farnese 146 
 
 Farnesina 142 
 
 French Academy 93 
 
 Giustiniani 104 
 
 Lancellotti 106
 
 220 Index. 
 
 Palace Madama pag. 
 
 Massimi 
 
 Mattel 
 
 Quirinal 
 
 RospigHosi 
 
 Ruspoli 
 
 Sciarra 
 
 SeDatorial 
 
 Spada 
 
 Torlonia 
 
 Vatican 
 
 of Venice 
 
 Vidoni 
 Paleslrina 
 Pantheon 
 Piazza Colonna 
 
 of the Laleran 
 
 Navona 
 
 of Pasquino 
 
 of the Popolo 
 
 of the Quirinal 
 
 of Spagna 
 
 Trajan 
 
 Vatican 
 Port of Ripa Grande 
 
 Ripetta. 
 Portico of Oclavia 
 Piison Mamertine 
 
 Tullian 
 Pyramid of Caius Ceslius 
 Rock Tarpeian 
 Scala Santa 
 Sette Sale 
 Temple of Antoninus
 
 Index. 
 
 221 
 
 Temple of Antoninus and Faustina 
 
 P«g- 
 
 42 
 
 Concord 
 
 
 37 
 
 God Rediculus 
 
 
 I2(i 
 
 Fortune Capltoline 
 
 
 36 
 
 Fortune Yirilis 
 
 
 133 
 
 Hercules 
 
 
 111 
 
 Hope 
 
 
 114 
 
 Juno Regina 
 
 
 150 
 
 Jupiter Tonans 
 
 
 35 
 
 Minerva Medica 
 
 
 63 
 
 Nerva 
 
 
 72 
 
 Piety 
 
 
 114 
 
 Romulus and Remus 
 
 
 44 
 
 Romulus son of Maxenlius 
 
 
 123 
 
 Venus and Rome 
 
 
 46 
 
 Yesta 
 
 42 
 
 132 
 
 Theatre of Marcellus 
 
 
 113 
 
 Pompey 
 
 
 110 
 
 Thermae of Agrippa 
 
 
 101 
 
 Caracalla 
 
 
 118 
 
 Diocletian 
 
 
 81 
 
 Titus 
 
 
 70 
 
 Tivoli 
 
 
 205 
 
 Tomb of Adrian 
 
 
 151 
 
 Augustus 
 
 
 97 
 
 Cains Bibulus 
 
 
 15 
 
 Caius Cestius 
 
 
 128 
 
 Cecilia Metella 
 
 
 124 
 
 Plautius (Tivoli) 
 
 
 203 
 
 Pompey 
 
 
 210 
 
 the Scipios 
 
 
 120 
 
 Trophies of Marius 
 
 
 64 
 
 Yalley of Egeria 
 
 
 120 
 
 Yelabrum 
 
 
 115
 
 222 Index. 
 
 Via sacra pag. 43 
 
 Villa Adriana (Tivoli) 203 
 
 Albani 85 
 
 Borghese 93 
 
 D' Este (Tivoli) 207 
 
 Lante 1 42 
 
 Ludovisi 89 
 
 Pamphili Doria 140 
 
 of the Quintilii 125 
 
 Palatina 49 
 
 Veil 210 
 
 University. 104 
 
 FINIS.
 
 GUIDE 
 
 OF 
 
 NAPLES AND ITS ENVIRONS 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 A DESCRIPTION OF THE ANTIQUITIES 
 AND INTERESTING CURIOSITIES. 
 
 PRECEDED 
 
 BY THE JOURNEY FROM ROME TO NAPLES 
 
 BY THE PONTINE MARSHES 
 
 AND MONTECASSINO- 
 
 FROM THE ITALIAN 
 
 OF 
 
 VA S I 
 
 KOME 1841. 
 
 SOLD 1;y MONALDINI, ENGLISH LIERAHV AND F.EADING HOOM . 
 PIAZZA ni SPAGNA N. 79.
 
 FROM ROME TO NAPLES. 
 
 X lie ancient road lo Naples was The celebrated Yia Ap- 
 pia made by Appius Claudius, censor in ihevear of Rome 
 442. It began at the Porta Capena , crossed the Pontine 
 marshes and ended at Brundusium on the Adriatic , then 
 the principal port of embarkation for Greece. It was for- 
 ■nied of large bloclcs of stone and on each side was covered 
 with tombs and other monuments. 
 
 The modem road which commences at ihe Porta 
 s. Giovanni leaves the Appian on the right but rejoins it 
 near Albano. On the left of the road , not far from the 
 gate , are remains of ancient tombs situated on the Latin 
 wa\', and further on of the aqueducts of Claudius, of the 
 Julia, Tepula and Mar cia watersj these ruins are scattered 
 •over the plain and add to the picturesque beauty of the 
 scenery. Albano its lake and emissary, Nemi , Gensano , 
 •and other spots cek'braled in the ^neid have been already 
 described. 
 
 VELLETRI 
 
 This city is very ancient, but preserves no remams 
 of its former splendour. In the Lancellolti palace built on 
 the designs of Martino Lunghi is one of the most remar- 
 kable marble stair cases of Italy. The gardens of the palace 
 which were about six miles in circuit are now cultivated 
 grounds , the waters which served as fountains were 
 ■brought by means of aqueducts from the mountain della 
 Faiola five miles distant.
 
 4 From Rome 
 
 Nine miles from Yellelri is a small village named 
 « Cora, » an ancient city of Lalium inhabited by the 
 Volsci. Il is remnrkable for its walls composed of large 
 blocks of stone and the remains of the temples of Her- 
 cules and of Castor and Polluxj of the former eight doric 
 columns of the vestibule still remain; from the orthogra- 
 phy of the inscription on the friese it would appear that 
 the temple was built in the reign of Augustus. An inscrip- 
 tion on the friese , and two corlnthian columns are the 
 only remains of the temple of Castor and Pollux. 
 
 Eight miles from Yellelri beyond the rivulet called 
 the Aslura, is 
 
 CISTERNA 
 
 some antiquarians have imagined that on this spot was 
 the Tres Taljernae mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles 
 W^Iiere the christians repaired to meet St. Paul , but the 
 distance from Rome is sufficient to prove that this is an 
 error. 
 
 Not far from the high road is Sermonela , formerly 
 Sulmona, a village containing some remains of ancient 
 fortifications. 
 
 Six miles from Sermonela is Sezze or Setia si- 
 tuated on a hill opposite to the Pontme marshes. It is 
 mentioned by Pliny on account of a revolt of some Car- 
 thaginian slaves , and by Martial for the quality of its 
 wines. It contains the remains of an ancient temple of 
 Saturn the entrance of which is closed by ruins; it 
 has however been ascertained that the height above the 
 roof is about 135 feet. 
 
 Seven miles and a half from Sezze is Piperno. — 
 An inscription placed over the gate proves that this city 
 was the ancient « Privernum » one of the principal 
 Volscian cities, bul the ancient town, of which there are 
 slill several remains, was situated some miles distant.
 
 To Naples, 5^ 
 
 AT TORRE TRE PONTI 
 
 Commence the Pont ine marshes which occupy 
 an extent of 24 miles in length , of 6 and sometimes 52 
 in breaJlh. The word Pomptina is denv^d from Po- 
 mella which was a large and populous town long 
 before the foundation of Rome and is supposed to have 
 been situated on the spot now called Mesa. 
 
 The popuhilion of this country in times of a remote' 
 antiquity was so great that according to the testimony of 
 Pliny it occupied no less than 23 cities in the number 
 of wliich were Sulmona , Setia , Privernum and Antium. 
 The environs of t-hese cities were covered with numerous 
 country houses , occupying an extensive space ; amongst 
 the most celebrated were those of Titus Pomponius At- 
 ticus in the environs of « Setia j » of the Anionia family, 
 near the mountain called Antignano, some ruins of 
 which named le Grolte deV Campo are still visible, 
 that of Mecrcnas near Pantanello , and of Augustus , near 
 the palace of iho Cornelia family, situated at a spot now 
 called Maruti. 
 
 The waters which flow on a gentle slope into the 
 plains formed marshes which prevented cultivation , 
 and produced exhalations in the summer months which 
 were considered as the cause of the bad air existing even 
 then at Rome, although at a distance of 49 miles. This 
 idea prevailed at the time of Pliny who says in the 
 3 book c. 5 «0b putridas exhalationes harum paludum , 
 ventum syrcphoenicum Romae summopere noxium volimt 
 Donnullio. 
 
 The Romans were constantly occupied in giving a 
 direction to those waters , and in preventing their over- 
 flow, as they rendered unhealthy their most beautiful 
 habitations.
 
 6 From Rome 
 
 When Appius Claudius traced his road through 
 these marshes he made canals, bridges and private ways 
 many remains of which still exist. During the wars in 
 which the Romans were afterwards engaged this ter- 
 ritory was neglected, the inundations recommenced, and 
 158 years before the christian era repairs became ne- 
 cessary. 
 
 These works had been long neglected when Juliu s 
 Caesar conceived the most extensive projects for the im- ' 
 provement of those lands. His intention was to turn the • 
 mouth of the Tiber in the direction of Terracina, thus to 
 procu^re an outlet for the waters , and to drain the ' 
 country. Plutarch, Dio and Suetonius speak of this design ' 
 the execution of which was prevented by his death. Au- 
 gustus resumed the project of draining , dug canals in 
 different directions which comniunicated with the sea. 
 Trajan paved the road which crossed the marshes, built 
 bridges and houses. At the decline of the Empire th e 
 inundations recommenced i we see by the letters of Cas- 
 siodorus that under Theodoric, King of Italy, the marshes 
 were drained by Basilius Decius and it appears that the 
 operation was succesful. Inscriptions on this subject exist 
 at Mesa , and near the Cathedral of Terracina. 
 
 It is said that Boniface VIU was the first pope who 
 undertook the draining of these marshes ; he dug a large 
 canal , and cleared all the upper part of the country , 
 but the waters of the lower parts not having a sufficient 
 slope and the canals being by degrees filled up , another 
 inundation took place. To Martin V is attributed another 
 canal still existing , called Rio Martino a work of 
 such magnitude that by some persons it is supposed to 
 have been made by the ancients, and that it was so called 
 long before the Pontificate of Martin V., 
 
 In 1585 Sixtus V resumed the project of purifying 
 the air and of improving the fertility of the Roman soil.
 
 To Naples. 7 
 
 In another large canal made by his orders called fiume 
 Sislo he unlled a great part of the waters dispersed in 
 different directions which emptied themselves into the 
 sea near Monte Circello ; he profiled of the canals of 
 Appiiis, of Augustus and of Trajan to conduct the waters 
 into the main canal, which was enclosed with dykes, hut 
 these not being sufficiently solid broke after his death and his 
 labours were nearly useless. Some of his successors were 
 occupied in designing plans , but the difficulties and the 
 great expense the work would occasion were a constant 
 obstacle to their realization. At length Pius \I adopting 
 the enlightened views of Sixtus Vj and considering that 
 he might render to agriculture a tract of land of twenty 
 thousand rubbi or 108 thousand acres, ordered in 1778 
 a new survey of tbe marshes in every direction ; the en- 
 gineer Rapini , charged with the woiks , united all the 
 waters in a canal contiguous to the Yia Appia which 
 maiked their ancient direction , and carried them to the 
 sea at Torre di Badiuo. This canal is called the Li- 
 nea Pia from the name of the sovereign Pontiff; sundry 
 small canals conduct the waters into two others of much 
 larger dimensions , and thus prevent their stagnation. 
 Pius VI visited the works many times , spared neither 
 labour nor expense in their execution , and at present 
 nearly the whole of this extensive tract of land is in a 
 state of culture , the air is more purified , and the Via 
 Appia, for so long a period under the waters, was reope- 
 ned to circulation; the journey to Terracina passing over 
 the mountains of Sezze and Piperno was attended with 
 difficulties, it is now performed over a straight road in 
 a plain 25 miles ia length. Three miles from Tor Tre 
 Ponti remains of antique monuments have been found 
 which served , no doubt , as an ornament to the foi urn 
 Appii aud to the Appian way.
 
 8 From Rome 
 
 At ihe end of the western cape of the marshas and 
 at the mouth of the Aslura river, is a tower of the same 
 name , and a small port where Cicero embarked for his 
 Formian villa the day he was assassinated. At this same 
 spot young Conradino , King of Naples was betrayed and 
 arrested by a Fiangipani , lord of Astura , with whom 
 he had sought refuge. 
 
 Six miles from Astura is Nettuno so called from 
 a temple of Neptune where sacrifices were offered to 
 obtain a favorable navigation. A mile and a half from 
 Nettuno, and 57 miles from Rome is Capo cfanzo , for- 
 merly Antium , a town of the Volsci known by its wars 
 with the Romans J its port was destroyed by Numicius in 
 the year of Piome 284. This place was celebrated by its 
 magnificent temples of Fortune, of Venus and Esculapius 
 and by a Villa of the Emperors in the ruins of which 
 several statues have been found , amongst others the 
 Apollo of the Vatican and the Borghese gladiator. The 
 Emperor Nero rebuilt Antium and enlarged its port ; 
 it was In a state of ruin when Innocent XII formed 
 one on a smaller scale. At Porto d'Anzo are several villas 
 of the Roman nobility. 
 
 At the western extremity of the marshes is Mente 
 Circello or cape Circe, a peninsula formed of a high rock 
 on which is placed the village of S. Felice ^ here were 
 the palate of Circe the daughter of the sun, and lli<e prisons 
 where the companions of Ulysses were coiiiined after 
 their melamoiphosls. 
 
 After having passed Bocca di fiume, Mesa and Ponte 
 Maggiore, the next post is 
 
 TERRAGINA 
 
 the last town of the Roman state. This city was built by 
 the Volsci and named Anxur or Axur j tlie Greeks called
 
 To Nnples. 9 
 
 it Trachina (steep) from which it derived its present 
 name. The ancient Anxiir situated on the lop of the hill 
 is well descrihed hy Horace: 
 
 Imposilurn lale saxis candentibiis Anxiir. 
 and still possesses remains of a temple of Apollo , dtco- 
 raled with fluted Corinthian columns ; the ascent to the 
 cathedral is by several steps divided into two paits ; at 
 the first place of repose is a granite urn with an inscrip- 
 tion on its base J tite nave of the church is supported bv 
 six columns of diO'ercnt marbles , the baldaquin of the 
 altar by four fluted columns j the chair, wilh mcsHic com- 
 partments, by five of granite. The climate of Terracina is 
 mild and the views of the environs are picturesque. The 
 palace built by Pins Yl and many other monuments of 
 thai sovereign's munificence are worth y of observation. 
 
 The chain of mountains near the city is in a manner 
 separated from the Apenni*nes by the extensive vallej;:-,of 
 the Sacco which is filled with springs that issue from 
 the foot of the mountain and fall into the marslrts. 
 
 The ancient Romans had villas on the hill of Teria- 
 cina. That of the Emperor Galba was placed near the 
 grottoes dug-Aut of the rock, ruins which are erroneously 
 allributed to the palace of Theodoric. On the top of lh« 
 bill are remains of the anciont walls of Anxur, of tombs, 
 and of conservatories of water. 
 
 Judging by its remains the port opened here by An- 
 toninus Pius must have been considerable but its now 
 filled with sand and the sea has retired : the stone rings 
 used for securing vessels still exist. 
 
 The Appian way passed through this town, a fine 
 remnant, the fragmtMils of which are enclosed in a wa- 
 rehouse belonging to the Canons, is well preserved. The 
 blocks of stone , in the shape of irregular penlagens are 
 joined with the same exactness as a work of the most 
 recent dale. 1*
 
 ■JO From Rome 
 
 Leaving Terracina for Naples we pass the guard 
 tioiise , dug out of the rock like several deep caverns 
 along the mountain. There is also a scale of 120 divisions 
 marked by numbers engraved on the rock. 
 
 Six miles from the town is a tower called Torre de' 
 Confini or dell' Epilafio , forming the frontier between 
 the two slates. The road follows the Via Appia which is 
 in a dilapidated state ; five miles further on is a small 
 town on the Appian way forming its principal street. It 
 was one of the towns of the Aurunci, a people of Latiumj 
 Martial, Strabo and Pliny speak of its wines; in its neigh- 
 bourhood is the grotto where, according to Tacitus, Seja- 
 wus saved the life of Tiberius. 
 
 In the Dominican convent is the room once occu- 
 pied by S. Thomas Aquinas and the hall where he deli- 
 vered lectures on theology. The environs of Fondi are 
 covered whith orange and lemon trees, the lake supplies 
 a variety of fish. 
 
 This town was nearly ruined in 1554 by a Turkish 
 detachment which attempted to carry awaj^ Julia de Gon- 
 zaga, Countess of Fondi , celebrated for her beauty. 
 
 ITRI 
 
 Is a large village, six miles from the sea on the Ap- 
 pian way; it is supposed by some to be the ancient Urbs 
 Mamurnana mentioned by Horace. The hills encircling 
 Itri are covered with vineyards, fig trees, laurel, myrtle 
 and the lentisk or mastic tree. 
 
 On the right of the road towards Mola is an ancient 
 tower said to be the tomb of Cicero raised by his freed- 
 men on the spot where he was killed. The edifice is 
 round and on a square basis; the circular part consists of 
 two arched roofs supported in the centre by a round mass 
 resembling a columnj near this monument is a path lead-
 
 To Naples. 1 1 
 
 ing to the sea which Cicero probably followed when he 
 was murdered. On the coast is a fountain , said to be 
 that of Artachia where Ulysses met with the daughter 
 of the King of the Lestrigous. 
 
 MOLA DI GAETA 
 
 Is a large borough situated near the sea on the gulf 
 of Gacta. It is built on the ruins of the ancieul Forniia", 
 a town of the Leslrigons afterwards inhabited by llie L;i- 
 conians and mentioned by Ovid in the XIV book of the 
 Metamorphoses. This place was celebrated among the 
 ancients by the beauty of its situation , and Horace con- 
 sidered its wines equal to the Falernian. The town was 
 destroyed by the Saracens in 856. 
 
 Mola has no port but from its shores the view em- 
 braces Gaeta and the islands of Ischia and Procida in the 
 bay of Naples. 
 
 At Caslellone between Mola and Gaela are ruins sup- 
 posed to have belonged to the villa of Cicero, several 
 inscriptions and monuments have been collected and de- 
 posited in the villa of the prince Caposele , now called 
 the Yilla di Cicerone. 
 
 Gaela, situated five miles from Mola on the slope of 
 a hill , contains about ten thousand souls. This town is 
 said to have been founded by ^neas in memory of his 
 nurse Cajela. 
 
 Tu qiioque liltoribus nostris jEneia nutrix\ 
 
 Ailernam moriensjamam ^ Cajeta, dedisti. 
 
 E.n. 7. 1. 
 
 The coast of Gaeta was in ancient limes covered 
 with villas, the ruins of ancient buildings are still visible 
 in the sea as at Baiise. The town, connected with the main 
 land by a narrow pass, has two entrances j the poi i made 
 or at least repaired by Antoninus Pius is commodious.
 
 i 2 From Rome 
 
 On the lop of the hill of Gaela is a lower called 
 Torre d'Orlando the most remarkable monument^ of the 
 place. It appears by an inscription that it was the mauso- 
 leum of Lucius Munatius Plancus, the founder of Lyons, 
 who prevailed on Ocfavlan to prefer the name of Augus- 
 tus to that of Romulus which some of his courtiers wish- 
 ed him to adopt. This mausoleum was built sixteen years 
 before the christian era. On a magnificent column forming 
 part of the monument are engraved the rhumbs of wind 
 in latin and in greek. 
 
 In the suburb of the town is a toweii called Lalrina 
 supposed to have belonged to a temple of Mercury where 
 oracles were delivered from an aperture in the form of a 
 dog's mouih which circumstance may have given the tem- 
 ple the appellation cf Latrina, from Latrando. 
 
 The fortress of Gaeta built by Alfonso d'Aragon in 
 1440 and enlarged by Ferdinand and Charles V who en- 
 closed the town with strong walls, is one of the strongest 
 places of the kingdom. In 1806 it opposed a long resistance 
 to the french, in 1815, to the Austrian, troops. 
 
 The bodyof ihe Constable de Bourbon whowaskilled 
 in 1527 at the siege of Rome had long been preserved in 
 a room of the fortress where it remained until the reign 
 of Ferdinand I whoorderedit to be buried with the cust- 
 omary honours. 
 
 The Cathedral is dedicated to S. Erasmus, Bishop of 
 Antlochia protector of the city. It contains a fine painting 
 by Paul Veronese and the standard given by Pius V to 
 Don John of Austria general of the Christian army against 
 the Turks. The bell of the church, remarkable for its size 
 and workmanship, is said to have been presented by the 
 emperor Frederick Barbarossa. 
 
 The church of the Trinity, the most celebrated of the 
 town, is situated n«ar a rock which, according to popular 
 tradition, split into three parts in-lionour of the most holy
 
 To Naples, 1 3 
 
 Trinily theday of our savloui's death. A large block which 
 fellon the principal aperture of iherockand stopped there, 
 served as the hasis of a chapel of the Crucifixionj the rock 
 on which is stands is,beaten by the sea. The chapel was 
 restored in 1514 by Pietro Lusianoof Gaeta. It cannot be 
 doubled after inspecting the angles on each side that the 
 rent must have arisen from some violent convulsion. 
 
 The road from Mola to Naples follows the coast du- 
 ring one mile, leaves it during another and then rejoins it 
 at Scavali. Three miles from this place are remains of an 
 amphitheatre , aqueducts and other ruins of the ancient 
 city of Minturnsc. 
 
 THE GARIGLIANO 
 
 Formerly the LIris, was the boundary line between 
 Latium and Campania. This river is crossed on a bridge of 
 boats. Here we quit the Via Appia which followed the 
 coast to the mouth of theVolturno where iheDomitianway 
 commenced. 
 
 The marshes formed by the Garigliano at this spot 
 recall to mind the vicissitudes of fortune of Marius, victo- 
 rious in so many bailies, seven times consul, compelled to 
 take refuge here in order to avoid the satellites of Sylla. 
 
 Eight miles from the Garigliano is Sesse, the ancient 
 Suessa Auruncorum one of the principal towns of tlae Au- 
 runci and birth place of Lucilius, the first salyiical poet 
 of Rome. The remains of an ancient bridge are still called 
 by the inhabilanls the Ponte Arunco. 
 
 Eight miles from the Garigliano is S. Agathaj at the 
 same di»tances are Sparauisi and 
 
 CAPUA 
 
 situated at a distance of t*hree miles from the ancient city 
 and fifteen from Naples occupies the site of Casilinum on
 
 1 4 From Rome 
 
 the Volturno twelve miles from its mouth. It is well for- 
 tiBed and contains a strong garrison. 
 
 Strabo says that Capua was built by the Tyrrhenians 
 when driven by the Gauls from the line of the Po , 542 
 years before the christian era. Others pretend that it exist- 
 ed 300 years prior to that epoch and that its founder was 
 Capys , one of the companions of jEneas who gave it his 
 name whiieStrabo asserts that thiswas derived from Caput 
 being one of the capitals of the world. Florus considered 
 Rome, Carthage, and Capua as the three first cities 
 Capua quondam inter ires maximas numerata. 
 
 lib. 1 c. 16. 
 the Tyrrhenians were expelled from Capua by the Samni- 
 tes, these by the Romans in whose lime it had acquired 
 celebrity from the amenity of its situation , the fertility 
 ifnd beauty of the surrounding country , called by Cicero 
 the finest domain of tha Roman people. 
 
 Annibal , in order to bring the Capuans over to his 
 party, promised to make their city the capital of Italy; the 
 Romans having taken the place after a long siege the inha- 
 bitants were sold as slaves; the senators were decapitated. 
 
 Genseric King of the Vandals in 455 mined Cnpua j 
 other devastations followed, and the name only remained 
 when the new town arose in 856. 
 
 The cathedral is decorated with granite columns of 
 different proportions taken from ancient edifices. In the 
 third chapel to the right is a picture by Solimena repre- 
 senting the B. Virgin with the infant Jesus and S. Stephen 
 and over the high altar is an Assumption by the same ar- 
 tist. In the subterraneous church in which are several 
 fine marble columns is a half sized figure of the Madonna 
 della Pieta, and a Christ of natural size, by Bernini. 
 
 The church of the Annunciation has an exterior of 
 the Corinthian order of fine architecture ; the interior is 
 richly decorated. It is supposed to have been an ancient
 
 To Naples, 1 5 
 
 temple built at some distance from Capua but the base 
 of the pedestals alone is antique , the grouped pilasters 
 found al the exterior of this edifice not having been used 
 by the ancients. 
 
 Many inscriptions and marbles from ancient Capua 
 are inlaid in the walls of the present town , and some 
 subjects of has reliefs in the place near the tribunal. Over 
 the arch of S. Eloi is the celebrated inscription of the am- 
 phitheatre wliich has been commented by Mazzocchi in 
 his tislimable work De Amphithealro Campano. Oppo- 
 site to this arch is a curious bas relief, found in the 
 theatre with the following inscription : 
 
 Lucceius Peculiaris Redemptor 
 
 Proscenii Ex Biso Fecit. 
 some considerable remains of ancient Capua still exist at 
 the town of S. Maria, between the Volturno and Clarius, 
 in the direction of Caserla. Two arcades on the road near 
 Casilino are supposed to have been a gate of the city, but the 
 most remarkable monument found in these ruins is an 
 amphitheatre 250 feet long, and 150 wide; the galleries , 
 steps and seats of the spectators are well preserved , the 
 structure was of brick covered with travertine and it was 
 formed of four orders of architecture ; on two arcades 
 over the door, both of the tuscan order are heads in bas 
 relief of Juno and Diana. A capital of a doric column 
 found in the ruins leads to the supposition that the second 
 order was doric. From the summit of these ruins the 
 view extends over a most picturesque country with Ve- 
 suvius in the back ground. 
 
 The via Appia passed through Capua. In the neigh- 
 bourhood are many villages and temples whose names 
 indicate their antique origin , Marcianise was a temple of 
 MarsjErcoIe a temple of Hercules; Curtis a palace or 
 Curia ; Casa Pulla a temple of Apollo, but of the temple 
 of Jupiter Tiphatinus near Caserta, there are no remainsj
 
 1 6 From Rome 
 
 of that of Diana Luclfera called Tiphalina the abbey of 
 S. Angelo occupies the site. The chain of mountains of 
 the environs of Capua and Caserla is still called Monti 
 Tifatini , a word derived from the volcano Tifata now 
 extinct. 
 
 The distance from Capua to Naples is 15 miles or 
 two posts through a highly cultivated counliy. 
 
 AVERSA 
 
 This town is not far from the ancient Alella cele- 
 brated amongst the Romans for the ready wit, the gaiety 
 and the licenlious manners of its inhabitants j having been 
 ruined by different invaders, Aversa was built in 1150 
 by the Normans who conquered Naples and Capua. Char- 
 les d'Anjou king of Naples destroyed Aversa the inhabi- 
 tants having revolted at the suggestion of the Rebursa 
 family; it however rose again from its ruins. 
 
 The town is small but well built and is situated in 
 a beautiful plaip at the beginning of an avenue which 
 leads to Naples. It contains some churches palaces and 
 other fine edifices and one of the first institutions of the 
 kind in Europe, an hospital for the insane, established by 
 the respectable abbe Lingulti. The patients are treated 
 with the utmost humanity nor can greater ingenuity be 
 devised than in the means employed for their cure. They 
 are taught music, they execute concerts with a surprizing 
 precision , a printing establishment is at their disposal , 
 grounds and gardens are allotted te their use. 
 
 The road from Aversa to Naples passes through 
 many vHIages the last of which is Capo di Chino where 
 the new road coramecces which leads to the capital.
 
 To Naples. 47 
 
 JOURNEY OF HORACE 
 
 As the stucl^ of the classic aulliors cxciles an inJerest 
 eveu in the spols which they inliabiled we trust that w« 
 shall meet with tlie appiobalion of the reader in adding 
 the journey performed by Horace as described in the 
 V satyr 1 book. 
 
 lu the year 712 of Rome or 41 years before the 
 christian era, Mark Anlhony had quitted. Cleopatra in 
 order to oppose the further progress of Oclavian in Italy. 
 Domitius .Euobarbus joined Maik Anthony who laid siege 
 to Brundusium while Sexlus Pompey operated on the 
 coast. Mecacnas 5 PoUio and Cocceius Nerva repaired to 
 Brundusium to enter into treaty when an arrangement 
 was concluded with Octavian who married his sist«r 
 Oclavia to Anlhony. 
 
 Horace received orders to attend Mecienas whona he 
 was to meet at Anxur ; he left Rome with Heliodorus. 
 
 The first stoppage was at Aricia on the Appian w^yj 
 sixteen miles from the city. Horace says : 
 Egressum magna me except t ^ricia Roma 
 Hospitio modico } rhetor comes Heliodorus , 
 GrcBCoriim longe doctissimus. Iiide Forum -^ppt 
 Differtiim naulis ^ cauponibus atque mnlignis. 
 
 Forum Appii was about 43 miles from Rome in the 
 Pontine marshes , founded probably by Appius when he 
 made his road» 
 
 Horace travelled by short stages, probably on foot, 
 as was customary among lli€ Romans j he perhaps alludes 
 to this circumstance. 
 
 Hoc iter ignavi divisimus ^ altiiis ac nos 
 'FrcBcinctis uniim: minus est gravis jdppia tardis. 
 From the situation of forum Appj the water could not 
 be very good^ our poet would not reraaiu even for supper:
 
 i 8 From Rome 
 
 Hie ego ^ propter aqiiam, quod erat deterrima, ventri 
 Indico bellum i coenantes haud animo cequo 
 Expectans comites. . . . 
 
 We pass over the description of his journey through 
 
 the marshes and of the bad night he passed ; lie landed 
 
 the following morning at 4. 
 
 .... qiiarta vix demum exponimur hora^ 
 Oray manusque tua lavimus, Feronia., lympha. 
 Mdlia turn pransi tria repimus, atqiie subimus 
 Impositiun late saxis candentibus Anxur. 
 Hue venturus erat Meccenas optimus ^ atque 
 Cocceius, . . . 
 
 The temple, the sacred wood of the goddess Fero- 
 
 nia were 3 miles from Anxur or 69 from Rome. 
 
 From Anxur Horace went to Fondi where the judge 
 
 of the village dressed in purple robes, received with pomp 
 
 and ceremony the homage paid to his situation. 
 Fundos Aufidio Lusco prcetose libenter 
 LinquimuSy insani ridentes prcemia scrihce ; 
 PrcBtextam , et latum clavum, prunceque batiltum. 
 Thence to Formise oiow Mola di Gaeta. It is gene- 
 
 plly beleived that Formiss was the urbs mamurrana , 
 
 being the birth place of Mamurra , a Roman knight , 
 
 though some authors place it at Fondi. 
 
 At Sinuessa he meets Virgil, Plolius and Varius, and 
 
 expresses his joy on the occasion. 
 
 Postera lux oritur multo gratissitna. : namque 
 Plotius et F'arius Sinuessce, P^irgiliusque 
 Oecurrunt : animce, quales neque candidiores 
 Terra tulit , neque queis me sit devinctior alter. 
 O qui complexus , et gaudia quanta fuerunt ! 
 Nihil ego contulerim jucundo sanus arnica. 
 
 The town where he experienced so much pleasure , 
 
 Sinuessa is the Mondragoue of the present day situated
 
 To Naples, f 9 
 
 beyond the Li'rls or Gan'gliano j he then proceeds to Ca- 
 pua by the Campanian bridge. 
 
 Proxima Campano ponti qiirs villula tectum 
 
 Prrebuit ; et parochi , tjure debenf^ ligna salemque, 
 . Hine inuti Capiice clitellas tempore ponunt. 
 
 The Appiaii way diverged to the east of Capua to- 
 wards Bcneventum aud passed through Caudiura. 
 
 Hinc nos Cocccii recipit plenissima villa ^ 
 
 Qu(B super est Caudi cattponas. . . . 
 
 Caudium was celebrated by the defeat of the Romaos 
 the year of Rome 452, their army was surprised by the 
 Samnites in ihe defile of the Caudine fori<s , was vanquish- 
 ed and compelled to submit lo an ignominious yoke. This 
 defeat caused such a consternation at Rome that the tri- 
 bunals were closed as in times of the greatest misfortune, 
 the consuls and officers who took, part in the capitulation 
 were given up to the enemy, but the Samnites sent them 
 back to Rome. A village called Forcia beyond tlie Ar- 
 rienzo seems by its name to be tbe spot where this cele- 
 brated event occurred. 
 
 From Caudium Horace followed the line of Bene- 
 ventum, and Canusium to Brundusium. 
 
 JOURNEY TO NAPLES BY MONTECASSINO. 
 
 The principal and most frequented road to Naples is 
 that by the marshes , Terracina and Mola di Gaeta , but 
 another has been opened of late years through the interior 
 affording an opportunity of visising the celebrated abbey 
 of Montecassino. 
 
 Afler crossing the dreary waste of the campagna the 
 first place of note is Valmontone situated on a hill at the 
 foot of which (lows the Saccoj by some antiquarians it is 
 supposed that this place occupies the site of the aucienl
 
 20 From 'Rorfie 
 
 -Labicum, wlule others place il al Colonna.ll is siUialed 
 near the junction of the \ia Labicana with the via Latina. 
 
 Fereutino one of the cities of the ancient Hernici 
 contains , with the adjoining village of Porciauo , about 
 eight ihoustmd souls. In the year 500 of Rome the con- 
 sul IVIcruIa estabUshed heie a colony and having always 
 remained faithful to the Rpmans the city preserved its 
 own laws. It presents nothing of interest but the walls 
 which are of very ancient construction. 
 
 At a distance of about eight miles is situated on a 
 «teep hill Frosinone also a city of the Hernici containing 
 a population of about 7500 nersous. The new road passes 
 thi'OUijh a fertile valley on t-o 
 
 CEPnANO 
 
 On the right bank of the Liris wqich, after its junction 
 with the Sacco, assumes the name of the Garigliano, and 
 forms the frontier between the Papal Stales and Naples. 
 
 MONTECASSINO 
 
 The abhey of Montecassino w«s founded In 529 by 
 S. Benedict and may be justly called thecradle of the mo- 
 nosteiies of the western world. In 589 it was plundered 
 by the Lombards, in 884 burnt by the Saracens; it after- 
 wards suffered from the depredations of the Crusaders 
 and of the Normans. What remained of the venerable mo- 
 Bument of S. Benedict was destroyed by the earthquakes 
 of 1349 and 1649. The monastery was restored by seve- 
 ral popes and particularly by Urban Y who belonged to 
 the order. 
 
 The h'terary world is indebted to this abbey for the 
 preservation of many works of antiquity. In the 1 1 th 
 century the Abbe Didier , afterwards Pope Yictor 111,
 
 To Naples. 21' 
 
 cnused copies lo lie marie by ihe monks of the works of 
 Homer, Virgil, Horace, Terence, the Fasti ofOvicl,lhe Idyls 
 of Theocritus , and of many of the greek and latin his-lo- 
 rians; he also procured greek artists from Constantinople- 
 to ornament the monastery with mosaics, thus preparing 
 riie revival of that branch of the arts. The entrance into 
 the monastery is by a large dark grotto sopposed lo havp 
 been inhabited by S. Benedict. On each side of tlie stair 
 case of the first court are the colossal slalues of the saint, of 
 his sister S. Scholaslica, and under the arcade of his mo- 
 ther S. Abbondanzlat 
 
 The most remarkable works in the church are the 
 door ordered at Constantinople by Didier , on which are 
 engraved in silver letters the names of the lands, castles 
 and villages that once belonged to the monastery. In tire 
 chapel of S. Gregory is a painting by Mazzaroppi, repre- 
 senting S. Benedict ; over the door of the side nave islhe 
 martyrdom ofS. Andrew by the same artist j the con- 
 secration of the church by Pope Alexander II is a ce- 
 lebrated fresco of Giordano. The high altar is ornamen- 
 ted with marble precious stones , alabaster , verde and 
 nero antique, lapis lazzuli and brocalello; it is placed over 
 the subterraneous church and the tombs of S. Benedict 
 and S'. Scholastica and is fsaid to be designed by Michael 
 Angeloj we also remark the tombs of Guidone Fieramos- 
 ca, the last prince of Mignano, and of Pietro , the son of 
 Lorenzo De MeJici , exiled from his country who was 
 drowned in the Garigliano. 
 
 The subterraneous church called il Tugurio or il Soc- 
 corso dedicated to S. Benedict and his sister who with S. 
 Maur and S. Placida are deposited here was painted by 
 Marco di Siena. 
 
 The refectory contains a picture representing the multi- 
 plication of loaves commenced by Francesco Bassano and fi- 
 fioifihed by his brother Leandroj sixteen original figures bx
 
 22 From Rome 
 
 the cav. d'Arpinowbich served for the mosaics of iTie cupola 
 off S. Peter's, representing Christ, the Apostles, the B. Yir- 
 gin and S. John Baptist,'a gift of the artist who also presen- 
 ted other paintings as a mark of his devotion to S. Benedict. 
 
 The library of the convent contains about 18 thou- 
 sand volumes, many rare editions of the XV century and 
 about 800 original diplomas, charts of Emperors, KiagS) 
 dukes and bulls of the Popes dated in the IX and XI cen- 
 turies; the most ancient diploma is that of A^on, prince of 
 Benevento dated in 884 written on parchment in Lombard 
 characters. 
 
 The site of the tower of S. Benedict is in great vene- 
 ration ; a chapel in which are mosaics and old paintings is 
 saidtohave bean hiscell.Oneof the paintings represents the 
 saint and the soul of his sister S. Scholastica ascending to 
 heaven in the form of a dove. Over the altar is a painting 
 by Mazzaroppi representing the B. Virgin showing Christ 
 to S. Benedict; three other paintings by celebrated masters 
 are destined to horwur the memory of the saint. 
 
 At the foot of Monte "Cassino is the town of San Ger- 
 mano which contains some remarkable antiquities. At 
 the spot called the Crocifisso remains of the theatre still 
 «xlst j the most important of these ruins is the amphi- 
 theatre called the Colosseum. Near S. German© is Ar- 
 pino, the birth place of Cicero; Arce was the residence of 
 his brother Quintus whose villa was probably situated at 
 Fontana buona, many small statues, busts, vases, paintings 
 and mosaics hiving been found at that spot. The situa- 
 tion of Arpino placed on two hills is very picturesque 4 
 the house of Cicero , it Is conjectured , was placed in the 
 isle of Fibrense near the town ; that of Marius , also a 
 ■native of Arpino at the palace naw in ruins called the 
 Castello. 
 
 The churches and private galleries of the town con- 
 Slain numerous works of the cav. d'Arpiuo; in^tbe house
 
 To Naples. 23 
 
 w'hich this artlsl inhabited is a painting vrbich represents 
 Phaeton. 
 
 The valley of the Fucine lalce Is an interesting part 
 of Italy. At the Isola di Sora in a most picturesque situa- 
 tion is a cascade form(d by the Liris. 
 
 The temple on the hill of S. Pietro is a remarkabk 
 roman work , anterior to the conquest of Greece. The 
 three naves are separated by 1 8 marble corinthian co- 
 lumns ; the balustrade of the choir, adorned with mosaics 
 and elegant little columns, is a work of Cosmati a sculptor 
 of Rome. 
 
 The first town on entering into the territory of the 
 Marsi is Carseoli mentioned by Slrabo as being on the via 
 Valeria and at a di-stance of 22 miles from Tibur accor- 
 ding to the Itinerary of Antoninus. Its situation in the 
 midst of high mountains and the solidity of its walls ren- 
 dered it a military post under the Republic. It existed at 
 the time of the Lombards ; the period of its destruction 
 is not known. 
 
 Alba Fucensis so called from its vicinity to the Fu- 
 cine lake was built on three bills the highest of which 
 formed the Acropolis, and was destined to receive priso- 
 ners of rank. Pliny asserts in his XXXV book , c. XLV, 
 that Perseus King of Blacedon and his son Alexander 
 were confined here ; it is stated by other authors that the 
 fallen monarch ended here his -days at the expiration of 
 two or three years. The walls of Alba formed of enor- 
 mous polygonal blocks of calcareous stone, and of Cyclo- 
 pean construction, are for the greater part well preserved^ 
 from the town the view extends over the lake which is 
 16 miles in diameter, 40 in circumference, and over an 
 amphitheatre of hills covered with hamlets and villages. 
 The emissary of Chuidius communicates with the Liris 
 by a channel cut through Monte Salviano on a length of 
 three miles. The mouth situated between Avczzano and
 
 24 From Borne to Naples. 
 
 Luco is 30 palms high and 15 wide. On each side of the 
 mountain are numerous outlets cut horizontally and ver- 
 tically communicaling with others forming an inclined 
 plane, hut several of these having in the process of time 
 been filled up with deposits of earth the waters now no 
 longer reach the principal channel which forms the q|nis- 
 sary. It is stated by Suetonius that thirty thousand per- 
 sons were employed during eleven years on this work , 
 that the emperor Claudius celebrated its completion by a 
 Naumachia composed of twelve triremes each, called the 
 Sicilian and Rhodian squadrons, mounted by individuals 
 who were condemned to death ; the signal of battle was 
 given by a figure which represented Triton rising out of 
 the lake and blowing a horn. IVIedals with the head of 
 Claudius were struck on this occasion quantities of which 
 have been found near the emissary. 
 
 The village of Lucp situated on the ruins of the an- 
 cient city of Angilia derives^its name from the forest sa- 
 Ored to the goddess of the Marsi. The ruins of Angitia 
 cover a laryc space of ground about 500 paces to the north 
 west of Luco J its walls composed of square blocks and 
 irregular polygons 1700 geometrical paces in circuit have 
 suffered much from the injuries of time and the inunda- 
 tions of the lake ; ruins of a temple of the doric order 
 were found in the centre of the city. 
 
 Several towns belonging to the Marsi have completely 
 disappeared but the site of Anxantlum will be found at 
 Civifa d'AnlIno , of Maruvium at S. Benedello , of Gorti- 
 ni«m at S. Pelliuo.-
 
 3)iii^:Lis^ 
 
 X. his city is so ancient that its origin is envelopped in tlie 
 fables of the highest antiquity. By some its foundation is 
 attributed to Falerius , one of the Argonauts 1300 years 
 before Christ j by others to Parthenope, one of the Syrens ; 
 to Hercules , TEneas , and even to Ulysses. It is probable 
 that the real founders were Greek colonies, the religion, 
 language , customs and usages of the Greeks having been 
 preserved here during many centuries. In the 5.lh book 
 of his geography Strabo speaks of these Greek colonies 
 and adds that the Campanians and after them the Cumseans 
 took possession of Naples. Cumae far more ancient and 
 more pov?erful ruined Naples which was afterwards re- 
 built by order of the oracle and called Neapolis or new 
 town which name it has preserved. 
 
 In 453 B. C- it entered into the confederacy of the 
 Italian cities , remained the ally of Rome at the lime of 
 Annibal , became a Roman colony, was embellished by 
 Adrian in IjO and by Conslantine in 308 who rendered 
 it one of the largest cities of the empire. 
 
 Without following the vicissitudes of Naples at the 
 fall of the Roman empire, during the middle ages, in sub- 
 sequent and more recent times we shall merely add that 
 in 1815 the Spanish branch of the Bourbons resumed the 
 throne. 
 
 It would be difficult to imagine any thing more beau- 
 tiful than the view of Naples under whatever point it be 
 examined. The town occupies a succession of hills running 
 from south to east round a bay 16 miles in breadth and 
 length forming the bason called Crater by the Neapoli- 
 tans T';e hay is lcr;iiiM'>fo;1 hv I'.vo cn'es lliat of Misc-
 
 2'6 Guide 
 
 nam to the right, of Minerva to the left, and is closed hy 
 the island of Capri. A part of the town extends to the 
 west in the form of an amphitheatre on the hills of Posi- 
 llppo, Saint Ermo and Antignano ; another part to the 
 east in a plain covered with villas from the Ponte delta 
 Maddalena to Portici and to Yesuvius. Towards the north 
 Naples is surrounded by a ridge of hills which separate 
 it from the Terra di Lavoro or those fertile plains, the 
 Campania fellx, called by the Romans their richest pa- 
 trimony. 
 
 Naples is well provided with aqueducts and fountains 
 ■supplied by two abundant springs; the aqueducts pass 
 under the pavement and have twice served to take the 
 city. The most ancient of these conveys the waters from 
 the foot of Vesuvius five miles within the city to the 
 Poggio Picale ; at the Capua gate they pass into the great 
 •canal at Formello, and supply the quarters of the M6!e 
 and C«tel Nuovo. In 1629 the mathematician Cimirello 
 and Camiignano a Neapolitan gentleman made at their 
 •own expense a canal 30 miles in length which brings the 
 "Wafers of the Isclero through Maddaloni , Cancello , and 
 Acerra to Capo di Chino and Naples by the porta S. Gen- 
 mro , thus supplying the upper parts of the town. In 
 latter times the waters of the villa of Caserta have been 
 added to those of this<;anal. 
 
 The city is about 12 miles in circuit and is defended 
 l)y three forts , the Castel deirUovo , the Castel Nuovo , 
 and Castel S. Ermo ; the port by some fortifications on 
 ihc two moles. 
 
 The population rs^upposed to amount to 450 thous- 
 -and souls; the streets are paved with the lava of Vesuvius, 
 ihe greater part of the houses have flat roofs forming ter- 
 Taces; the most remarkable fountains are those of IVIonfe 
 Ohvetlo and Medina, the churches, palaces and other edi- 
 !6ces ere richly ortianaenled h\x\ they do not equal m
 
 Of Naples 27 
 
 archilecture tlie buildings of other Italian cities. Naples 
 contains about 500 churches, 37 asylums for orphans, 
 lhe aged and infirm , several hospitals and other pious 
 
 establishments. 
 
 / DJV 
 
 The residence of the kings of Naples was formerly 
 at the Cnstel Capuano now the Vicaria and afterwards al 
 the Caslcl Nuovo. Don Pedro di Toledo , viceroy under 
 Charles V, biiiU tlie palazzo vecchio and in 1600 the 
 count de Lemos added the wing situated at the beginning 
 of the via Toledo, under the direction of Domenico Fon- 
 tana. The facade is about 422 feet long, the three orders 
 of architecture are decorated with doric ionic and corin- 
 ihian pilasters j the whole edifice is crowned with a mag- 
 nificent entablature. The court has a double row of por- 
 ticos, at the front of the great stair case are colossal 
 statues of the Ehro and Tagus. 
 
 In the chapel is a large portico covered with scagliolaj 
 the high altar , the tabernacle and lateral doors are orna- 
 mented with pietre dure mixed with gill bronzes whidi 
 formerly belonged to the church of S. Theresa. The statue 
 representing the Conception is by Fansaga, the paintings 
 are by Giacomo del Po, 
 
 The apartments contain many ancient and modern 
 paintings , and in the large hall are the portraits of the 
 Viceroys of Naples by Stanzioni and de Matteis. 
 
 The church of S. Francis de Paola facing the palace 
 is a modern construction in the form of a circular temple 
 with two semi-circular porticos , supported by columns. 
 The interior is decorated with paintings by Camuccini 
 and other modern artists of celebrity. 
 
 THEATRES 
 
 The principal theatre of Naples and one of the first 
 in Italy is the S. Carlo built in 1737 and rebuilt in 1815.
 
 28 Guide 
 
 It is 68 feet long and 133 broad , the length of the pit is 
 78 and the breadth 70 feet, the stage 95 bj"^ 50, the boxes 
 can easily contain 12 persons. 
 
 The Fondo is of the middle size but of an elegant 
 construction J the Fenice and S. Carlino on the piazza 
 Castel nuovo are much frequented. The Fiorentiui is de- 
 dicated to the representation of operas and works in 
 prose. The S. Ferdinando near the ponte nuovo, is fre- 
 quented chiefly by the lower orders. 
 
 The piazza or Largo di Castello is ornamented with 
 several fountains the principal of which is the Medina so 
 named from the viceroy who placed it on this spot. In 
 the midst of a large bason are four satyrs supporting a 
 large shell over which are four sea horses with Neptune 
 holding the trident. The lions and other external orna- 
 ments are the woik of Fansaga. In the centre of the place 
 is auotlier fountain called the Specchi. 
 
 The Castel Nuovo communicating by a covered way 
 with the palace is situated on the coast, its lofty towers 
 were built by Gio. Pisano in 1285 when Charles of Anjou 
 fixed his residence here, the external fortifications forming 
 a square of about 1200 feet were commenced by Alfonso 1 
 in 1500, and finished in 1546 by don Pedro di Toledo 
 who added the two large bastions. Near the first fortifi- 
 cations is a triumphal arch with statues and has reliefs 
 erected in lionour of Alfonso 1 , a monument interesting 
 in the history of art as very few of that period exist in 
 Europe. 
 
 The church of S. Giacomo built in 1540 on the 
 designs of Manlio contains , amongst other paintings, one 
 by Andrea del Sarlo, and the monument of don Pedro di 
 Toledo , one of the best woiks of Marliano. 
 
 In that of S. Ferdinando the paintings of the ceiling 
 and cupola are considered to be the best works of Paolo
 
 Of Naples. 29 
 
 de Matllieis. Over the altar is a woik of Sollmena , the 
 statues of David and Moses Hre hy Yaccaro. 
 
 On the Pizzo falconc is the Nunziatella a chinch whicli 
 once heloiiged to the Jesuits and is decorated with gill 
 stuccoes and paintings bjr de Rosa and other ISeapohlan 
 artists. On the ceiling is a fresco by Mura. 
 
 In tlie church of S. Maria dcgli Angeli ornamented 
 with marbles are paintings by Massimo, Giordano, Mal- 
 teis, Vaccaro, Solimena. 
 
 In that of S. Carlo alle MortcUe in the chapel of 
 S. Liborio is a fine painting by Giordano. 
 
 // Djr 
 
 At the end of the quarter called S. Lucia is the 
 
 CASTEL DELl'uOYO 
 
 Which advances about 600 feel into the sea on an 
 island called Mcgaris by Pliny, and Megala by SlatiuSj 
 built on the site of a villa of Lucullus it was long called 
 Castrum LucuUanum, and became the place of residence 
 of Augustulus the last Roman emperor when he was 
 dethroned by Odoacer, king of the Heruli in 476. A pa- 
 lace was erected here in 1154 which was placed in a 
 state of defence in 1225 by the emperor Frederick 11 j 
 other woiks were added in 1693. 
 
 CHIAJA 
 
 The public promenade situated on this quay was 
 eommeoced in 1779 by Ferdinand I, and has lately been 
 carried on to the foot of Posilippo. Divided into five alleys 
 interspersed with fountains and statues, it is now one of 
 the most agreable resorts of Naples. 
 
 Near Posilippo is the church of
 
 so Guide 
 
 S. MARIA PIE DI GROTTA 
 
 Built in 1353 5 it is small, contains some good pictures 
 but is parliculary celebratad by the image of the B. Virgin 
 placed over the high altar which is an object of great 
 veneration. 
 
 The solemn festival celebrated yeaily on the 8.th 
 September is attended by the court, the public authorities 
 and an immense concourse of people. 
 
 On the hill of Posilippo were the villas of Marius, 
 Pompey, Cicero and other distinguished Romans. 
 
 THE GROTTO 
 
 Is a road dug through the hill a third of a mile in 
 length j the height is about 150 feet and tbe width large 
 enough for two carriages ; the road originally passed over 
 the hill. The grotto was probably made by the Cumseans 
 and Neapolitans in order to facilitate their communica- 
 tions. It was enlarged under Don Pedro di Toledo. 
 
 Over the entrance into the grotto are remair>s of a 
 tomb called the 
 
 TOMB OF VIRGIL 
 
 The spot where this celebrated poet was buried is 
 indicated in a precise manner by ^lius Donatus, a gram- 
 marian of the IV century who says , that by order of Au- 
 gustus the ashes of Virgil were transferred to Naples his 
 favorite residence and placed on the road to Pozzuoli , 
 intra lapidem secundum. Statius, a poet of the 1 century 
 also speaks of this tomb , and the passages of these two 
 writers can be easily applied to the ruin bearing this name. 
 It is said that in the centre of this monument was a sc-
 
 Of Naples. 31 
 
 pulchral urn supported by nine small maible columas 
 with the following distich: 
 
 Mantua me genuit , Calabrl rapncre ^ tenet nunc 
 
 Parthenppe -^cecini pascua^ rurai duces. 
 
 According to Villani c. 28 of his chronicle it laniain- 
 ed in this stale in his time. No traces exist eilhcr of the 
 urn or of the columns ; its external form is thai of a lower 
 rendered picturesque by ihe ivy and wiM plants that en- 
 circle it. On the IMergellina shore is the churcli of S. Ma- 
 ria del Parto erected on the spot given by Frederick 11 of 
 Aragon to his secretary Sanna2ar, a celebrated lalin poet 
 who built on it a house and tower. Frederick having lost 
 his crown in 1502, the viceroy of Naples demolished ihe 
 house. In 1529Sannazar rebuilt on the same spot a church 
 dedicated to the Madonna del Parto from a poem which 
 he had composed here , and gave it lo the friars of the 
 Servile order who erected a mausoleum lo his memory 
 wliich was begun by Santa-Croce, a Neapolitan sculptor 
 and finished by Poggibonzi , one of the friars. The birst 
 of Sannazar is between two weeping genii, on the sides are 
 statues of Apollo and Minerva , on the pedestal is a fine 
 bas relief representing fauns and nymphs singing and 
 playing on various instruments. Bembo eni^raved on the 
 tomb the following distich: 
 
 De sacro cinerijlores , hie ille Maioni 
 
 Sincerus , Alusa proximus ut tumulo? 
 SIncerus was the poetic name of Sannazar in the Ponta- 
 niana academy. 
 
 In the same church is a S. Michael by Leonardo di 
 Pistoia , and an adoration of the magi by John of Bruges 
 said lo be the first who used oil in painting. 
 
 Along the MergcUina shore are several villas and a 
 palace called that of Queen Giovanna though built on the 
 designs of Fansnga at the end of the XVI century by a
 
 32 Guide 
 
 princess of the Caraffa family ; if terminated it would be 
 one of the handsomest palaces of Naples. 
 
 At the end of the promontory, in a place named the 
 Gajola, are remains of the villa of Lucullus described by 
 Pliny in the c. 54. 1. IX. of his nalural history : near this 
 are ancient balhs improperly called Scuola di Virgilio. At 
 Marechiano were the fish ponds of Pollio's villa also men- 
 tioned by Pliny. 
 
 At a short distance from the promontory of Posilippo 
 is Nisida, an island a mile and a half iu circuit now used 
 as a lazzaretto. 
 
 /// DJr 
 
 On the ridge of hills called the Vomero are several 
 villas and churches j that of the Camaldoli contains seve- 
 pal works of Borghese , Santafede , Massimo , and other 
 Neapolitan painters \ but what renders this spot highly 
 interesting to travellers is the extensive panorama of Na- 
 ples and of the Campania felix seen from the hermitage. 
 
 THE CASTLE S. ERMO 
 
 So named from a neighbouring chapel dedicated to 
 S. Erasmus was originally a tower built by the Normans 
 and changed into a fortress by Charles II to which other 
 fortifications were added in 1518 when the town was 
 beseiged by Laulrec, Charles V reduced it to a regular 
 citadel and Philip V added other works: the whole now 
 presents an edifice in the form of an hexagon about 100 
 loises iu diameter with mines and countermines. Within 
 the castle is a well of an immense size. 
 
 THE CHURCH OF S. MARTINO 
 
 Was once occupied by a royal villa which Charles , 
 duke of Calabria, prevailed on bis father Robert of Aujou
 
 Of Naples. 33 
 
 to convert into a sacred building. In 1325 a church and 
 monastery were erected and richly endowed by the king. 
 The cburch , renewed two centuries later on the 
 plans of Fansaga , is decorated with paintings , marble 
 works, precious gems and gih stuccoes. Over the entrance 
 is a painting by Massimo representing a deposition with 
 the B. "Virgin, S. John and S. Bruno, by Massimo : on the 
 sides are a Moses and Elia two fine compositions by Spa- 
 gnoletto : the twelve prophets by the same artist forming 
 eigiit pictures in the ceiling of the nave, from the beauty 
 of the design and colouring, and the variety of expression 
 are considered as master pieces. The frescoes representing 
 our saviour and the apostles are some of the best works 
 of Lanfrauco. 
 
 THE PIAZZA S. SPIRITO 
 
 Is decorated with a semicircular building by Van- 
 vitelli raised in 1757 at the expense of the town to King 
 Charles \\\; on a marble balustrade are 26 statues allusive 
 to the virtues of that monarch and in the centre is a large 
 pedestal destined to support his equestrian statue. 
 
 Over the high altar of the church of S. Spirito, built 
 in 1555, is represented the descent of the holy ghost by 
 Moro, the painting in the chapel of the Rosary is by 
 Giordano. 
 
 The church of S. Theresa contains in the chapel of the 
 saint some paintings by Massimo ; the fli-ht into Egypt, 
 the S. John and otiier works are by Giacomo del Poj the 
 S. Januarius in the sacristy is said to be by Domenichino. 
 
 THE STLDJ 
 
 This extensive building was erected in 1577 by the 
 viceroy Duke d'Ossuna on the plans of Julius Fontana
 
 34 Guide 
 
 and destined for an university. It was enlarged by the 
 Count de Lemos , and by Charles HI but the colleges ha- 
 ving been transferred to S. Salvadore Ferdinando I de- 
 dicated it to the academy of sciences and fine arts institu- 
 ted in 1780. The collection of objects of art and science 
 deposited in this establishment named the Museo Borbo- 
 nico is divided into five classes. 
 
 1. The statues forming the inheritance of the Farnese fa- 
 
 mily , at Rome, and those discovered in the excava- 
 tions of Hcrculaneum and Pompeii. 
 
 2. The papyrus manuscripts found in these Ivro ancient 
 
 cities , and the ingenious mechanism employed in 
 unrolling them. 
 
 3. The library composed of 150,000 printed volumes and 
 
 of 3000 manuscripts. 
 
 4. The picture gallery containing a beautiful annuncia- 
 
 tion by Pinluricchio and some fine paintings by Ca- 
 raccj, Schidone and Coreggio. 
 
 5. A. collection , unique for its number and beauty, of 
 
 vases called Etruscan, medals, sculptures and other 
 objects in bronze; antique glass wares and provisions 
 found at Herculaneumand Pompeiij'paintings from the 
 excavations of those cities , cork models of the an- 
 cient theatre of Herculaneum and of the temples at 
 Pajstum. 
 
 The halls on the ground floor are divided into two 
 buildings, one destined for the academy of painting and 
 sculpture, the other for that of architecture, perspective 
 and ornaments. The i-emaining halls are filled with Egy- 
 ptian and Etruscan monuments , with statues the most 
 remarkable of which are : the Farnese Hercules by Glico 
 the Athenian, the Flora highly esteemed for its drapery , 
 the Farnese bull by Apollonius and Andriscus who have 
 represented in this admirable group the mystic Dirce at 
 the moment of her rescue from the bull to whose horns
 
 Of Naples. 35 
 
 she had been lieJj these works weic found at Rome in the 
 thermce of Caracalla. 
 
 We shall also notice a beautiful Venus Calllpyge , an 
 Adonis, a statue of Ai istides found in the theatre of Hercu- 
 laneum , two gladiators full of expression , a Venus and 
 Cupid found at Capua, a Venus and Ilennaphrodile at 
 Pompeii, equestrian statues of Balbus, nuinerous busts of 
 Roman emperors, inscriptions and archileclural fragments 
 of the best times of the art. 
 
 The palaces Doria d'Angri and Maddaloni the for- 
 mer built by Vanvllelli, that of the dukes of Gravina in the 
 Piazza cli 3/onle Olivelo are among the first of Naples. In 
 the piazza is a bronze statue of Charles 11, nnd a fountain 
 with three lions casting wafer into a reservoir. 
 
 The church of S. Maria di Monte Oliveto was erected 
 in 1411 and together with the monaileiy was endowed by 
 Alfonso 11 of Arragon. The chapel of the holy sepulcre 
 contains statues in terra cotta which are interesting as 
 being portraits of celebrated men of that day. The head 
 of Nicodemus is that of Pontanus ; Joseph of Arimalhea , 
 Sannazar; S. John in tears and the next statue are por- 
 traits of Alfonso II and of his son Ferdinand. 
 
 Near this church are two chapels^ in that on the left 
 of the Mastro giudice family is a marble table representing 
 the annunciation by Benedetto da Maiano. In that to the 
 right belonging to the Piccolomini family is another of the 
 nativity by Donatello. 
 
 The via Toledo derives its name from the viceroy Don 
 Pedro who opened it on the ditches of the ramparlsj it is 
 about a mile iu length. 
 
 IV DAY 
 
 TlifC palace of Capo di Monte buill in 1638 by Char- 
 les 111 contains some works of Camuccini and other rao- 
 dero painters of celebrity.
 
 3 6 Guide 
 
 Adjoining the palace is a park of about three miles 
 in extent reserved for the royal hunt, and on the top of 
 the hill is the new observatory. 
 
 On the southern slope of Capo di Monte is a college 
 founded in 1732 by Ripa for the education of young Chi- 
 nese who at the completion of their studies return as mis- 
 sionaries to Chinaj many Chinese curiosities are preserved 
 in the college. 
 
 At the foot of the hill is the church of S. Januarius 
 de'poveri where the body of the saint was deposited when 
 brought to Naples by the bishop S. Severus. 
 
 In this church is the principal entrance into 
 
 THE CATACOMBS 
 
 These subterraneous passages, supposed to have been 
 used at a remote period for the sand and stone requisite 
 for building are said to extend to Pozzuoli , and to the 
 monte Laulrec. At the periods of persecution they served 
 as a refuge for the early christians who united here in 
 prayer. 
 
 They contain an interesting little church which is 
 entered by several steps : the columns are dugout of the 
 lulTo , around the sacristy were ranged several inscrip- 
 tions now placed in the pavement of the external church. 
 
 THE ALBERGO De'pOVERI 
 
 Commonly called the Reclusorio is an extensive edi- 
 fice , raised in 1751 by Charles III on the plan of Fuga. 
 Orphans and poor children are received and instructed in 
 different trades and professions. 
 
 One of the lateral arcades of the portico leads to the 
 apartmens of females, the other to that of menj the esta- 
 blishment supports about 800 persons , and furnishes in- 
 struction in surgery, music, drawing, engraving, and the
 
 Of Naples. 37 
 
 mechanic arts. The young females sew, spin and make ar- 
 ticles of fashion and stuffs. 
 
 Near this building is the garden of plants formed of 
 late years. 
 
 In the church of S. Antonio is a large picture of the 
 early times of painting which represents that saint^S. 
 Francis and S. Paul, S. John and S. Peter. This work of 
 the Neapolitan painter Colantonio di Fiore is in oil and 
 bears the iscriplion: 
 
 A. IMCCCLXXI Nicolaus Tomasi de Flore Pictor. 
 this would seem to prove that John of Bruges is not the 
 inventor of painting in oil. 
 
 In a solitary valley between Capo di Moute and Capo 
 di Chino are a convent of missionaries and the ruins of 
 aqueducts, which formerly carried the waters of iheSerino 
 to the Piscino mirabile of Cape Misenum. 
 
 V DAY 
 
 The church of the Trinita, or Gesii nuovo was built 
 in 1570 by Lucano on the site occupied by the palace of 
 the princes of Salerno; It is in the form of a greek cross 
 The chapel of S. Ignatius contains the statues of David 
 and Jeremiah by Cosimo , over the great door Solimena 
 painted in fresco Heliodorus driven out of the temple; in 
 the chapel of the H. Trinity is a fine picture by Guercino. 
 
 In the adjoining convent of S. Sebastian the conser- 
 vatories of music of S. Onofrio , Loreto , and della Pieta 
 have been united, and have produced the celebrated com- 
 posers Pergolesi, Piccini , Sacchini, Gugliclmi, CImarosa, 
 Paesiello and Zingarelli; amongst other distinguished sin- 
 gers Caffarelli, Egizlelli and Farinelli 
 
 In Santa Chiara builtin 1310 by Masucci is a painting 
 of the B. Virgin by Giotto; another over the altar by Lan- 
 franco, and in the chapel of the Sanfelice family is an anti- 
 que sarcophagus covered with has reliefs.
 
 35 Guide 
 
 S. DOMENIGO MAGGIORE 
 
 Was built in the gotbic style of architecture in 1284 
 by Charles of Anjou. In the chapel of the Annunclalion is 
 a painting by Titian, in another, one of our saviour tied to 
 the column by Michael Angelo Caravaggio. This church 
 contains several old paintings by Neapolitan and other 
 artists, sundry monuments of sculpture and in the sacristy 
 the tombs of some princes of Aragon. 
 
 In the church of Santa Severa built in 1590 are the 
 monuments of Santa Rosalia and S. Oderisio by Corradini 
 a Venetian sculptor: over the high altar is a painting ofS. 
 Maria della Piela : that of the roof is remarkable for the 
 beauty of the execution and of the perspective. 
 
 In theGesu vecchio are statues and paintings by Moro, 
 Fraganzano, Solimena, Marco of Siena. 
 
 On the site now occupied by the church of S. Paolo, 
 formerly stood the temple ofCaslor and Pollux as indicated 
 by the greek inscription placed over the friese of the en- 
 tablature towards the facade. In the church are various 
 marbles, sculptures, and paintings by Solimena, Marco of 
 Siena, Henry the fleming, Massimo. The tabernacle of the 
 high altar is composed of rare stones, the work of Raphael 
 the fleming. In the chapel to the left the body of S. Andrea 
 d'AvcUino is preserved, and in the small nave opposite is 
 that of S. Gaetano, in high veneration amongst the Nea- 
 politans. 
 
 In the second court of the adjoining convent are ruins 
 of walls of a theatre where, according to Suetonius and 
 Tacitus, Nero appeared for the first time in public to sing 
 verses of his own composition. 
 
 S. LORENZO MAGGIORE 
 
 Was built by Charles I of Anjou in 1265 on lh« an- 
 cient Curia Auguslula. It is of the golhic style, was com-
 
 Of Naphs. 39 
 
 menced by Maglioni and conipleletl by Masuccio II , it 
 contains several pictures of merit: that ofS. Anthony of 
 Padua by Simon of Cremona, of S. Francis by il Zingaro. 
 
 S. Filippo Neri, built in 1592 by the saint himself 
 with the alms which he collected, is one of the finest chur- 
 ches of Naples. 
 
 It is divided into three naves by corinthian columns 
 of granite, the chapels are decorated with marble,gill stuc- 
 coes and paintings by Pomaranci, Malthei, Santafede and 
 Giordano. The painting in the chapel of S. Francis is by 
 Guido, that of S. Alexis by Pietro di Cortona. 
 
 In the chapel dedicated to S. Jerome is a copy by Ca- 
 racci of the celebrated picture of Corregg,io. 
 
 The sacristy contains amongst other paintings the 
 baptism of Christ by Guido: the B. Virgin , Jesus and S. 
 John by Raphael, an Ecce Homo and the apostle S. An- 
 drew by Spagnolelto, others by Domenichino. 
 
 Yi D^r 
 
 S. JANUARIUS 
 
 This ancient Cathedral was built under Conslantine 
 on the ruins of the temple of Apollo and dedicated to S. 
 Reslilula. In 1280 Charles I of Anjou began a new cathedral 
 which was finished in 1299 under Charles 11, but having 
 been destroyed by an earthquake in 1456 it was rebuilt by 
 Alfonso I on the designs of Nicholas the florentine and 
 completed by Mnsuccio II. 
 
 In the interior are numerous chapels and 110 Egy- 
 ptian and African granite columns which decorated llie 
 temple of Apollo. 
 
 In the subterraneous church covered with while mar- 
 ble and adorned with has reliefs in the form of arabesques
 
 40 Guide 
 
 is deposited, under the high altar, the body of S. Janua- 
 rius, bishop of Benevento and protector of Naples. 
 
 To the right of the high altar are four paintings by 
 Giordano , and opposite four by Solimena. The sacristy 
 contains the succession of portraits of all the bishops and 
 archbishops of Naples. 
 
 The chapel of S. Januaiius is decorated with seven 
 altars designed by padre Grimaldi, the external facade is 
 by Fansaga, two large columns support the architrave, on 
 the sides of the bronze door are the statues of S. Peter 
 and S. Paul by Finelli. 
 
 The chapel contains 31 brocalello columns of the 
 Corinthian order between which are bronze statues and 
 busts representing the holy protectors, and under these 
 in separate niches are preserved the busts in silver of the 
 same saints 34 in number. The greater part are the work 
 of Finelli who also executed the large bronze statue of 
 S. Januarius placed over the high allar under which are 
 deposited the relics of the saint whose head is preserved 
 in a bust : in a silver tabernacle are two phials of his 
 blood said to have been collected by a Neapolitan woman 
 at the moment of his martyrdom. This blood becomes mi- 
 raculously liquid when presented to the head of S. Janua- 
 rius. The miracle is renewed three times every year : 
 during the first eight days of May, the first eight of Sep- 
 tember , and the 15 december the day of his festival. 
 When the blood liquifies immediately the joy of the 
 people is boundless, when it is delayed their lamentations 
 are incessant. 
 
 The high altar of this chapel is a block of porphyry 
 intersected by silver cornices or gill bronze. On the days 
 of solemnities it is customary to add large silver candle- 
 sticks, vases of flowers and a cross of lapis lazzuli. 
 
 The painting over the high altar is by Dumenichino, 
 that opposite by Spagnoletto. Three small pictures placed
 
 41 Of Naples. 
 
 in the little chapels, the frescoes on the deling and in the 
 angles of the great chapel are also by Domenichino. 
 
 SANTI APOSTOLI 
 
 The church is built on the site of the temple of Mi- 
 nerva. The paintings of the cupola are by Lanfranco and 
 Benasca, those under the naves by Solimena and Giordano, 
 the tabernacle of the high altar is composed of jasper and 
 other precious marbles. In the chapel of the Conception, 
 the S. MIcliael is by Marco of "Siena , the other paintings 
 by Solimena. 
 
 PALAZZO DELLA VICAPJA 
 
 This building surrounded wilh strong walls was 
 raised by William 1 King of Naples and served as a resi- 
 dence for himself and ills successors until the time of 
 Ferdinand 1. Since the construction of the royal palace 
 by don Pedro di Toledo , the Vicaria has been used for 
 the tribunals, criminal courts and prisons. 
 
 The church of the Annunciation and adjoining house 
 were erected by Queen Sancia, enlarged in 1348 by Gio- 
 vanna II, and in 1540, but having been destroyed in the 
 great fire of 1757 il was rebuilt in 1782 on the designs 
 of Vaulivelli in the form of a latin cross. It contains 44 
 columns of Carrara marble , the paintings over the high 
 altar are by Mura, the prophets at the angles of the cupola 
 by Fischelti. 
 
 The piazza del mercato the largest of Naples has been 
 the scene of two celebrated events , the murder of young 
 Conradino and the revolt of Masaniello. 
 
 Conradino as heir to bis father the emperor Conrad 
 entered the country with Frederic duke of Austria at the 
 head of an army but was defeated by Charles of Anjou
 
 42 Guide 
 
 who had been recognized by Clement IV: ihe two young 
 princes were betrayed by the lord of Astura , delivered 
 into the hands of Charles and decnpjtaled by his order on 
 this piazza the 26 October 1268. A small chapel and cross 
 were raised on the spot where the execution had taken 
 place, and on a porphyry column was the following in- 
 scription : 
 
 u4s(uris iingue Leo pidlwn rapiens Aquilinum 
 
 Hie dephimavit , acephalumque dedlt. 
 this chapel was burnt in the fire of 1781. 
 
 The revolt of IMasaniello broke out on the 16 June 
 1647, a popular insurrection which furnished subjects to 
 Salvator Rosa, Falcone, Fracanzano, Spadaro and Michael" 
 Angelo delle Bambocciate whose painting of this scene is 
 m tlie Spada gallery at Pvome. 
 
 S. MARIA DEL CARMINE 
 
 This church was enlarged in 1269 by Queen Mar- 
 garet of Austria the mother of the unfortunate Corradmo 
 who had repaired to Naples in order to obtain the liberty 
 of her son : the young prince having been already depriv- 
 ed of life, no consolation remained but to provide for his 
 sepulture and the large sum destined for his ransom was 
 applied to this church : the body was transferred to the 
 chapel of the cross where It was interred behind the bigh 
 altar with that of Frederick of Austria. 
 
 This church was reduced to its present form in 1 747, 
 was adorned with marble and paintings by Solimena Gior- 
 dano and Matlheis. 
 
 The castel del Carmine was originally a lower bnik 
 by Ferdinand of Aragon in 1484. It was the chief fortress 
 of Masaniello, and was surrounded with other works after 
 his death.
 
 isirwiDit^ m STMiLi^ 
 
 POZZUOLI 
 
 The cotiiitiy silualcd to ihe west of Naples belwecn 
 Fosilippo and Linlerno is celehraleil in the fables of an- 
 tiquity. When the Romans had conquered the world , 
 Pozzuoli and its neighbouihood became their favorite 
 resort. These shores were then covered with villas and 
 such sumptuous edifices that ihey were called by Cicero 
 the kingdoms of Pozzuoli and CunviTC. « Puteolana etCumana 
 regna. » Epist.adAtt. 
 
 The prosperity of Pozzuoli declined with that of the 
 Roman empirej some remnants of its ancient edifices alono 
 remain. 
 
 THE LAKE OF AGNANO 
 
 Is lurrounded wilh hills formed of the lava of extinct 
 volcanoes. It is about three miles in circumference, and h 
 very deep being the crater of an ancient volcano j in its 
 vicinity are remains of parts of the ancient thermae called 
 the StulTe di San German© consisting of small rooms in 
 which the heat of the vapour rises to 39 and 40" of 
 Reaumur. 
 
 THE GROTTA DEL CANE 
 
 Mentioned by Pliny 1. 2. c. 90 is dug on a sandy soil 
 at a depth of 10, a height of 9, and a breadth of 4 feet, a 
 light inodorous vapour rises about six inches from the soil : 
 the interior of the grotto is without incrustations or any 
 deposit of saline matter.
 
 44 Environs 
 
 This grotto formerly called the cavern of Charon 
 derives ils present appellalion IVom the experiments made 
 ou a dog who would dieal the end of two minutes if not 
 restored to the opeu air. Between Pozzuoli and the lake 
 of Agnano is the 
 
 SOLFATARA 
 
 called by the ancients Forum Vulcani si(uated in a narrow 
 plain surrounded by the Monti Leucogei, or the Phlegroean 
 fields, was considered at the time of Pliny and Slrabo as 
 a Volcano not enliiely extinct. Several apertures exhale 
 a heated vapour in which the smell of sulphur and am- ' 
 moniac predominate, flames are visible during night, when l 
 the fire is also more distinclly heard. ^ 
 
 The Solfatara appears to have been a mountain the I 
 summit of which fell in by the violent action of a volcano, '■ 
 the noise produced by the rolling of a stone on the surface • 
 would indicate that the inlerior is hollow. — Numerous 
 mineral waters exist near this spot , represented by the 
 poets of antiquity as that where Hercules fought with the 
 giants. 
 
 THE CAPUCHIN CHURCH 
 
 Was erected by the city of Naples in 1580 in honour 
 of S. Januarius who suffered martyrdom here in 289 un- 
 der Diocletian. It is said that the stone covered with the 
 blood of the saint who was decapitated is preserved in 
 the chapel dedicated to him. 
 
 Above the convent is an extensive grotto supposed 
 to have served as a passage between Pozzuoli and the 
 Agnano lake. 
 
 The Monte Spino to the south of the convent is form- 
 ed of lava and other volcanic matters. Suetonius asserts 
 that ils summit was lowered by Caligula who used the 
 the blocks to pave the high roads of Italy. Remains of
 
 Of Naples. 45 
 
 ancient aquecliicts ihat supplied Pozzuoli with water are 
 still visible at this mounlain which also contains mineral 
 springs. 
 
 POZZUOLI 
 
 The origin of this town has been altributecl to the 
 Ciitna^nns and to a colony iVoin Samos. The former opinion 
 seems to be more probable. It was first called Dicearchia 
 or place of llie commercial tribunal ; by tbe Romans Pu- 
 teoli from the Puteal where the pr;clor rendered justice 
 at Rome j by others it is supposetl to have derived its 
 name from the number of wells du^; by Quinlus Fabius. 
 It became a colony in tbe 559. ih year of Rome ; after the 
 fall of the empire it suffered from the barbarians, from 
 earthquakes and volcanic eruptions when the town and 
 environs fell into so miserable a stale that some ruins of 
 its ancient splendid edifices alone remain. 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF AUGUSTUS NOW THE CHURCH 
 OF S. PROCULUS. 
 
 is composed of large blocks of square marble and of Corin- 
 thian columns supporting a finely executed architrave. It 
 was dedicated by Calpurnius , a Roman knight , to Au- 
 gustus as ascertained by the following inscription once 
 placed on the frontispiece : 
 
 CALPCJRNIUS r,. F. TEMPLUM AUGUSTO 
 
 CUM ORNAMENT IS 
 
 D. D. 
 
 and by the christians to S. Proculus who was martyrized 
 with S. Januarius and whose body with that of other 
 saints is deposited in the church. 
 
 Amongst the other splendid temples of Pozzuoli was 
 that of Diana which was adorned with a hundred columns 
 and the statue of the goddess thirteen cubits high; it is
 
 4'6 Environs 
 
 presumed that tliis temple stood on the spot now called 
 Pisa t or 0. 
 
 TEMPLE OF SERAPIS 
 
 Vl is known by antique inscriptrons that in the VI 
 century of Rome a temple dedicated to Serapis existed 
 liere. It was not discovered before 1 750 when it was in 
 good condition and might easily have been preserved, but 
 having been stript of its statues , columns and other or- 
 naments it is now a ruin. 
 
 Its form was quadrilateral, 134 feet long , and 115 ) 
 broad ; it had formerly forty two square chambers some , 
 of which still remain: four marble stair cases led to the j 
 temple built in a round form on a diameter ol 65 feet.1 
 The base had sixteen columns of red marble to support! 
 the cupola , the three of cipollino on one of the exterior _; 
 sides have alone survived the destruction of this edifice. ] 
 
 In the town is a fine marble pedestal 7 palms long 
 4 and 7 inches wide, found here in 1693. On its four si- 
 des are has reliefs of figures representing 14 cities of Asia 
 minor with their respective names , inscribed on the pe- 
 destal of a statue of Tiberius showing that this monument 
 had been erected to that emperor as a mark of gratitude 
 for having repaired those cities which had been nearly 
 destroyed by a violent earthqud^e. 
 
 The port of Pozzuoli was formerly one of the first 
 ■of Italy J its long pier was built on piles supporting ar- 
 ches in the form of a bridge ; two inscriptions found near 
 it inform us that it had 25 arches , of which only 13 dis- 
 figured pilasters remain, and that it was restored by 
 Adrian and by Antoninus Pius. 
 
 Caligula added to the pier a bridge 5600 paces long 
 finishing at Baia3 , and formed of a double line of boat* 
 ^which were fastened by anchors, and covered with plaiJt* 
 ^and sand like the Appian way.
 
 Of Naples, 47 
 
 THE AMPHITHEATRE OR COLOSSEUM 
 
 Allhoiigh greatly damaged by earthqual<cs enough 
 remains loiudicate its size: the arena was 187 feel long, 
 130 wide, and could contain forty five shousand persons. 
 ll had two orders and was built of large square blocks. 
 
 Near the Amphithealre is a subterraneous building 
 called the labyrinth from the number of small chambers 
 of which it is composed. It was probably a reservoir for 
 the waters used in the NaumHchia. 
 
 To the north of Pozzuoli are remains of the ancient 
 Cannpania way lined with several columbaria. 
 
 THE VILLA OF CICERO 
 
 The Qusesliones Academics were composed here and 
 It was called the Academia in imitation of the academy at 
 Athens. The emperor Adrian who died at Baia? was buried 
 in this villa where his successor Antoninus Pius erected 
 a temple over his tomb. Several statues of Adrian have 
 been found in these ruins. Between Pozzuoli and Baiae 
 ai»e the 
 
 LUCRIN AND AVERNO LAKES 
 
 ^vhich were united under Julius Cffisar. On the 20 Sep- 
 tember 1538 an earthquake which filled up a part of the 
 Luci in lake and buried in the earth the large village ef 
 Tripergole together with its inhabitants formed the Monte 
 nuovo which is three miles in circumference. The appel- 
 lation Averno is derived from Aornos as the exhalations 
 •of the two lakes , surrounded on all sides by forests, were 
 reputed fatal to the respiration of birds. 
 
 In these dark forests, says Sirabo, 'lived the Cimme- 
 •rians a barbarous people who prel'^nded to predict the
 
 48 Environs 
 
 future. Homer asserts that ihey inhabitecl deep caverns 
 impenetrable to the rays of the sun. Servius gives a des- 
 cription of the Cimmerians and of their habitations, which 
 were beyond the Averno lake and extended to the Ache- 
 rusia marsh , a spot considered by the ancients as the en- 
 trance into the infernal regions, or the kingdom of Pluto: 
 the depth of this lake is 82 loises, its diameter 253. 
 
 In the vicinity is a grotto supposed by many writers 
 to be that of the Cumsenn Sybil , but in the opinion of 
 Strabo it was a subterraneous way communicating with 
 Baise : by others it is asserted that it was a canal dug by 
 Nero to conduct the hot waters of Baise to the promontory 
 of Misenum. 
 
 In the direction of Baise are the ruins of three halls 
 called the temples of Yenus, Mercury, and Diana Lucifer, 
 many antiquarians pretend that the first was built under 
 Julius Csesar, others that the three were baths surrounded 
 with mineral waters. 
 
 The temple of Mercury preserves the upper part of 
 its rotunda entire; it is 146 feet in diameter and receives 
 the light as the Pantheon at Rome. 
 
 Of the temple of Diana half the cupola still exists ; 
 its exterior is of an hexagon form; the dogs and stags 
 sculptured on marble blocks found near it, gave rise to 
 the opinion that it was dedicated to Dinna. Monte Gauro, 
 now monte Barbaro , situated to the north of Pozzuoli 
 towards Cumae , was celebrated by the ancient poets and 
 historians for the excellence of its wines. 
 
 Ou the banks of the lake are ruins said to have be- 
 longed to a temple of Apollo, and on the south side are the 
 
 BATHS OF NERO M 
 
 SO called from a villa which that emperor possessed on 
 this spot where he commem.Cil a large navigrible canal
 
 Of Naples. 49 
 
 destined to unite the Averno with the Tiber ; some remains 
 are said to be in ibe direction of Licola. 
 
 The balhs or StiifTe consist of six long narrow galle- 
 ries at the extremity of wbich is a spring in a stale of 
 ebullition, possessing many medicinal qualities. 
 
 Tlie coast of Pozziu)li with its volcanic eruptions, the 
 Solfatara with its springs of boiling water which prove, 
 that a great part of these subterraneous fires are still in 
 activity, the fertility of the soil remind us of the verse of 
 Ylrgil: 
 
 Hie ver assiduum et in alienis mensibus cestas 
 
 BAI;5E 
 
 According to Sfrabo Baius, a companion of Ulysses, 
 gave his name to this place celebrated in ancient times 
 for the number and magnificence of its villas. Horace pre- 
 ferred Balae to all other places and reproached the wealthy 
 men of his time that not satisfied with their extensive do- 
 mains they encroached even on those of Neptune. 
 
 Caesar, Pompey, Marius possessed villas on this coast; 
 in that of Piso was planned the conspiracy against Nero; 
 that of Julia Mammaea, the mother of Alexander Severus, 
 surpassed all the others in magnificence. 
 
 The coast of Baice is now covered with ruins. 
 
 The village of Bauli situated near Baia; on the summit 
 
 of a hill is said to have been founded by Hercules on his 
 
 return from Spain. It was the residence of Agrippina the 
 
 mother of Nero, of Hortcnsius and other celebrated men. 
 
 THE THEATRE 
 
 A part of this edifice in the form a semicircle, on the 
 roof of wltich are stucco has reliefs, and some of the steps, 
 are its only remains. These ruins, though evidently for- 
 
 5
 
 50 Environs 
 
 miDg part of a theatre were called the tomb of Agrippina, 
 but it is known from Tacitus that this tomb was near the 
 villa of Caesar. 
 
 THE PISCINA 
 
 Is an ancient reservoir of water for the use of the 
 inhabitants and of the fleet stationed at Misenum. The 
 subterraneous building which is entered by 40 steps is di- 
 vided into five galleries and numerous arcades supported 
 by 48 pilasters. The length of the building is 225 feet , 
 the breadth 75 and height 20. 
 
 THE CENTO CAMERELLE 
 
 Or hundred chambers , said so have served as the 
 foundation of some large building, formed another reser- 
 voir. An ancient structure situated towards the sea, called 
 il mercalo di sabato, was the cemetery of the inhabitants 
 of Baiae, Baull and Misenum. 
 
 The lake , now called Mare morto , once communi- 
 ceted with the sea. In its vicinity the poets have placed 
 the Elysian Belds and a mile distant the Fusaro lake or 
 the Acheron , spots celebrated in the mythology of the 
 ancients. 
 
 MISENUM 
 
 At the extremity of the gulph of Pozzuoli is a pro- 
 montory on which stood Misenum so called from one of 
 the companions of jEneas. The port commenced by Caesar 
 and finished by Augustus was the principal station of the 
 Roman fleet in the Mediterranean. The emperors and sena- 
 tors had villas at Misenum, the ruins of those of Nero and 
 Lucullus still exist. The town was plundered by the Lom- 
 bards in 836 and destroyed by the Saracens in 890.
 
 Of IWiples. 51 
 
 Between Misennm and Cumaa are the ruins of the 
 villa of Servilius Vacca , in which several statues have 
 been found. 
 
 cvmm 
 
 In the opinion of Strabo, Cumae Is the most ancient 
 of all the Italian cities, having been founded by the Cu- 
 maeans of Eubtea who after the destruction of Troy settled 
 in Italy ; from its situation and the fertility of its territory 
 it acquired the appellation of Felix. It opposed the Cani- 
 panians ; followed the fortune of Rome in the Punic wars, 
 became a colony under Augustus , and was distinguished 
 in the arts'3 Horace praises the Cumaean vases, but having 
 suffered by wars and the plague this city was styled by 
 Juvenal the vacua Cuma. In the middle ages it was chosen 
 on account of its fortifications as a place of deposit for 
 their treasures by the gothic kings Totila and Teja ; was 
 beseiged and taken by Narses who entered it by the grotto 
 of the Sybil J in 715 it fell into the possession ofPvorauald II 
 duke of Benevento and in 1207 was destroyed by the 
 Neapolitans. 
 
 The temple of Apollo situated on the summit of the 
 mountain contained the celebrated statue of that god 
 brought from ^olis and in its subterraneous cavern was 
 the oracle of the Cumcean Sybil, a native of Cumse in ^olis 
 who flourished at the period of the destruction of Troy 
 1175 years before the christian era. Over the entrance 
 into the grotto is a fine marble frontispiece and the struc- 
 ture of the grotto itself coincides with the description 
 given by ancient writers. 
 
 The temple of a good style of architecture , the re- 
 mains of which are near the Arco felice, was found in an 
 excavation made at Cumtp in 1606j it contained numerous 
 statues.
 
 62 Environs 
 
 The temple of the giants so called from some colossal 
 statues found in its ruins, one of wliich is now in the stu- 
 dio is 51 feet in length and 25 in brcadlh. 
 
 In the Euboic mountains and on the Domilian way 
 between Cumae and Pozzuoli are remains of a large brick 
 wall and of an arch called the Arco felice 19 feet wide, 
 the wall is 61 feet in height. 
 
 The territory of Cum?e , owing to the stagnation of 
 the waters, is now a marsh beyond which on a hill com- 
 posed of volcanic substances , is 
 
 LITERNUM 
 
 Of the origin of this town we have no precise information; 
 it was declared a military colony under Augustus and was 
 the residence of Scipio Africanus who died here according 
 to Strabo and Seneca. 
 
 The town was destroj'^ed in 453 by the Vandals un- 
 der Genseric. Amongst its ruins was found a part of the 
 tomb raised to Scipio by his family 
 
 . . . TA . PATRIA . NEC . . . 
 
 heoce these ruins and the lake were called Patria. — 
 
 The islands of Procida, Ischia, INisida and Capri con- 
 tain numerous mineral springs and some remains of extinct 
 volcanoes. 
 
 COAST OF POMPFII 
 
 At a distance of three miles from the ponte de 1 
 Maddalena under which passes the river Sebeto is the royal 
 palace of Porlici, built by Charles HI iu 1756, and a mile 
 further on that called the Favorita situated in the village of 
 Resina. Underthese Iwoplaces is buried the ancient town of 
 
 IIERCULANEUM 
 from its name and the testimony of Strabo and Dionisius 
 of Ualicaruassus the foundation of this city can safely be
 
 Of Naples. 53 
 
 allribuled to (he Phrenician Hercules, and to a period of 
 sixty years before that of Troy. 
 
 Its situation on the coast rendered it one of the ri- 
 chest cities of Campania. Inhabited at an early period by 
 the Osci , the Etruscans and the Sainnitcs , it afterwards 
 fell under the dominion of the Greeks , became a muni- 
 cipal town and roman colony; in the latter times of 
 the Republic it was filled with villas ; its ruins indicate 
 that after Naples and Capua it was the finest and most 
 opulent city of Campania. 
 
 The earthquake of ihe 63** year of our era did con- 
 siderable injury to llerculaneum but it was completely 
 buried by the eruption of Vesuvius in 79, which was more 
 violent than any which had taken place during the pre- 
 ceding 18 centuries. Pliny the younger who was an eye 
 witness at Rlisenum describes this eruption in his letter to 
 Tacitus. The towns of Pompeii Herculaneum and Slabia 
 were covered with volcanic substances; by the excavations 
 made at Herculaneum it is ascertained that not less than 
 six other eruptions have covered the city since that of 79. 
 
 The discovery of Herculaneum was due to chance. 
 In 1689 some inhabitants of Piesina having dug to a depth 
 of 65 feet in search of a well , found remains of valuable 
 marbles and inscriptions relative to Herculaneum. In 1 720 
 the prince d'Elbaeuf requiring marble for his villa at Por- 
 tici, resumed these excavations and discovered several sta- 
 tues j these circumstances recalled to mind Herculaneum 
 but further researches were prohibited by government 
 for fear of injuring the foundations ot the houses al Resina. 
 
 Charles HI resumed the works commenced by the 
 prince d'Elbrcuf; the workmen had penetrated scarcely 
 65 feet in the well when they found a lapidary inscrip- 
 tion and some remains of bronze equestrian statues. Pro- 
 ceeding in an hoiizontal direction two marble statues j 
 fragments, and the theatre were discovered.
 
 54 Environs 
 
 At Resiua is the opening of an excavation leading by 
 a narrow pnssage lo the great theatre 590 feet in circum- 
 ference having a fine facade and marble columns placed 
 on the stage. 
 
 The streets were wide and paved with lava similar 
 to that of the late eruptions of Vesuvius — The forum 
 was of a rectangular form 228 feet in length surrounded 
 with a portico supported by 42 columns , it was entered 
 by five arcades over which were equestrian statues and 
 communicated by another portico with two temples each 
 150 feel long. In the houses which are of a good style of 
 architecture quantities of bottles , goblets of thick glass , 
 vases, and manuscripts written on ^Egyptian papyrus were 
 found ; the almonds and other fruits, the corn, bread , 
 the furniture and bronze utensils had not suffered any 
 change. 
 
 The edifices discovered have been filled up anew; 
 the marbles, bronzes, paintings, sculptures, medals, in- 
 scriptions, instruments of art , bronze , and other utensils, 
 have been transferred to the Museo Borbonnico at Naples. 
 
 MOUNT VESUVIUS 
 
 Is situated between two mountains one called the 
 Somma, the otherOttajano j though separated these moun- 
 tains have a common base , it is supposed that formerly 
 they were united and that their separation is due to an 
 eruption which rendered them craters. Vesuvius has the 
 form of a cone, its perpendicular height is 3573 feet, the 
 circumference of the three mountains at the base is 30 
 miles. 
 
 Three roads lead to the summit, that of S. Sebastian 
 to the north, of Ollajano to the east, of Resina, which is 
 the most frequented , to the west. At Resina are conduc- 
 tors who serve as guides to the crater, the circumference 
 of which is 5624 feet.
 
 Of Naples. 55 
 
 The form and surface of the crater are some times 
 convex, at others concave j the species of crust of vyhich 
 it consists is formed of lava, scoriae, sand, ashes and other 
 volcanic mailers. At the periods of eruption the lava 
 spreads over the soil like a torrent forming small hillocks 
 during its course, and when deprived of its natural heat 
 it assumes the hardness of marble , in which state it is 
 used for paving Naples and the neighbouring towns. 
 
 The ashes proceeding from an eruption arc some 
 timos carried to a considerable distance by the wind. It is 
 mentioned in ancient authors that at the eruption of 79 
 they reached Egypt and Syria , at that of 472 Constanti- 
 nople. In 1631 the height of the column of smoke from 
 the crater was valued at 30 miles , that of 1679 at lOOO 
 toises and 20 in diameter. 
 
 After the eruption of 79 occurred those of 203, 472, 
 521 , 685 , 1036j this last is noticed in the anonymous 
 chronicle of Monte Cassino 5 of 1049, 1138, 1306, 1500, 
 uul lliat cT i63i wai lue n-.ost lerrific: 0" l''e lb decem- 
 ber of that year after violent shocks , volumes of smoke 
 torrents of lava and of boiling water issued from the moun- 
 tain covered the country ,' carried away trees , houses 
 and drowned upwards of 500 persons near Torre del 
 Greco ; the lava divided into seven branches ruining towns 
 and villai^es on its passage. This eruption lasted until the 
 middle of jnnuary 1 632 ; other eruptions occurred in 1 660, 
 1682, 1694, 1698, 1701 and were not less violent ; others 
 in 1737, 1751 , 1734, 1759, 1760, 1765, 1770. During 
 that of 1767 the earthquake was felt al a distance of 20 
 miles 5 the stream of lava was 300 feet wide, 24 in depth. 
 Tfiose of 1776, 1778, 1779, produced less damage, that 
 of 1794 covered the country near Torre del Greco and its 
 houses; between 79 and 1794 the most remarkable erup- 
 tions amount lo 36. At Herculaneum were found six crusts
 
 56 Environs 
 
 of ashes thus rendering it incontestable that five eruptions 
 followed that of 79 which destroyed the city. 
 
 After the villages of Torre del Greco, dell'Annunziata 
 and on tlie Salerno road 12 miles from Naples is 
 
 POMPEII 
 
 The foundation of this city is attributed to Hercules; the 
 etymology of its name is not known, but it was inhabited 
 by nations having a common origin with the people of 
 Herculaneum, theOsci, the Etruscans, Felasgians and Sam- 
 nites. The inhabitants of Pompeii and Herculaneum took 
 arms in the social war in order to obtain the quality of 
 Roman citizens. In the year 6t)5 of Rome Sylla founded 
 at Pompeii a colony to which he assigned one third of 
 its territory. 
 
 This town situated near the river Sarno and having 
 a port which according to Livy and Florus received the 
 fleet of Cornelius, was the central point of trade of I'lola^ 
 Kocera , Acerra , places of importance at that period \ this 
 trade and the fertility of its soil rendered it, according to 
 Tacitus and Seneca, one of the most populous cities of 
 Campania. 
 
 Under the consulate of Regulus and Yirginius in the 
 G3.d year of Christ , Pompeii suffered severely from the 
 earthquake which occurred on the 5 february ; the erup- 
 tion of 79 coveied it with a prodigious quantity of ashes 
 and small stones. 
 
 Although it is asserted by historians that Pompeii 
 was destroyed on this occasion that fact does not appear 
 to be admissible, as Suetonius relates thai Titus employed 
 means to repair the town, and Dio adds that two consuls 
 were sent by the same emperor who established colonies 
 at Pompeii and Herculaneum. It may be conjectured that 
 a part only of these towns remained buried under the 
 volcanic substances while the other part was repeopled
 
 Of Naples. 57 
 
 until the subsequent eruptions drove away their inhabi- 
 tants. The volcanic matter which covered Herculaneum 
 in 79 consisted of ashes and stones in a slate of ignition , 
 that at Pompeii of ashes only. The edifices remained unin- 
 jured, the roofs ;\lone were ruined, a proof that the ashes 
 fell in the form of rain and not in volumes, their dry and 
 light quality preserved the buildings, mosaics, paintings 
 and utensils. 
 
 Dio asserts , and his opinion has been adopted by 
 other writers, that during the eruption the inhabitants 
 were at the theatre where they were buried under the 
 ashes, but this opinion is contradicted by the nature and 
 action of volcanoes and particularly of Vesuvius the erup- 
 tions of which are always preceded by signs which leave 
 time to provide for individual safely and by the fact that 
 one skeleton alone was found in the theatre and not more 
 than sixty in the town, probably persons who were unable 
 to move or who remained in hopes of seeing the calamity 
 cease. 
 
 About the middle of last century some traces of 
 Pompeii were found in planting a vineyard. Charles 111 
 ordered excavations which have baen carried on with 
 more or less activity until the present day. It has beea 
 observed that the volcanic ashes were not all placed in 
 their natural order thus leading to the beliet that after the 
 eruption of 79 the iuhabitanss returned to their houses ia 
 search of the properly which they had not previously 
 carried away. 
 
 These houses are composed of one or two stories , 
 generally enclosed in a square court surrounded with por- 
 ticos where the doors are placed. In the centre of the 
 court is a well or reservoir of water. The rooms on the 
 ground floor are without internal communication , they 
 are small but lolly, the greater part without windows , 
 receive the light from the door , have a ceiling and are 
 
 3*
 
 58 Environs 
 
 paved with mosaic; the walls are covered with figures and 
 architectural views on a white , red or yellow ground. 
 The house oi Jrrius Diomedes situated in the suburb 
 Pagus Augusto Felix in the direction of Vesuvius was the 
 first discovered. Its interior is a long square surrounded 
 with a portico supported by stuccoed pilasters ; in the 
 middle was a small garden with six columns , a basin of 
 white marble and a well 5 some of the rooms are painted 
 on a red ground with figures and arabesques. A skeleton 
 supposed to be that of Diomedes was found here holding 
 in one hand a key, in the other coins and gold ornaments j 
 behind this another holding bronze nnd silver vases. Un- 
 der the garden portico is a cellar which contained many 
 of the vases used by the ancients for preserving wine. 
 Two stair cases lead to the second story placed in the 
 midst of a covered court with 14 brick stuccoed columns 
 and a mosaic pavement. 
 
 The tomb of the Arria family to the left of the house 
 bears the inscription that it was raised by M. Arrius Dio- 
 medes, the freedman of Caja. On the Consular road which 
 passed through the town are the tombs of Nevohija Ty- 
 ches and of his son C. Munatius , of Calventlus Quietus 
 and ofScaurus. The last was remarkable for its bas reliefs 
 representing games of gladiators, which being in stucco 
 have perished. On other ruined edifices are represented 
 scenes relative to the private life of the ancients. The 
 road is paved with large blocks of volcanic stone and is 
 12 and 1 4 feet in breadth. The houses were distinguished 
 not by numbers as at present but by painted signs ; to 
 the right on entering the city is one which from the uten- 
 sils found in the interior probably belonged to a wheel- 
 wright. 
 
 The other buildings in this street are : a shop resem- 
 bling a small coffee house in which hot liquors were sold, 
 that of Albinus in which were found numerous small
 
 Of Naples. /)9 
 
 figures in goltl, silver, bronze, coral, worn by ibe ancients 
 and particularly by females as amulets. Near another 
 cofl'ee house is the house of Popidius Rufus a member of 
 whose family rebuilt the temple of Isis at his own expense. 
 Further on is a building with paved rooms and a 
 vestibule containing on elegant mosaic having in the cen- 
 tre the figure of a lion. In this part of the town are the 
 crypto-portici or subterranean passages, one with a fine 
 row of columns, others with balhs and reservoirs. 
 
 After a large house of only one story divided into 
 three apartments and having three courts surrounded with 
 porticos and columns is thai of the surgical cabinet , so 
 called from the numerous instruments of surgery it con- 
 taiued ; after several others in ruin is that of the public 
 weights in which scales resembling those now in use, va- 
 rious lead and marble weights were found. Adjoining this 
 building is a soap manufactory and other shops for hot 
 liquors. 
 
 In the direction of houses on the left is the public 
 oven with three of the mills then in use, and next to the 
 shop of an oil or wine vender is the house of Caius Sal- 
 lustius, one of the most splendid of the city. 
 
 Those of Vettius Herennius , of Julius Polibius are 
 recognized by their inscriptions, in the court of thai of 
 Equanus are some columns of stucco painted in iuutation 
 of mosaic work. 
 
 The academy of music derived this appellation from 
 ihe numerous paintings on the walls representing musical 
 instruments. 
 
 After the houses of Vettius and Priscus the main 
 street forms two branches. Over the adjoining shop is 
 painted a large serpent eating an apple , an emblem of 
 health 5 many vases having been found here which con- 
 tained medicinal articles it is supposed that it was an apo- 
 thecary's shop.
 
 60 Environs 
 
 The houses of Sabinus, Marcellus, of V&ttius Popi- 
 llus , the edile , are situated near others in ruin , several 
 edifices have been uncovered and afterv^ards filled up as 
 the volcanic substances had been already moved by the 
 inhabitants who returned to their dwellings after the erup- 
 tion: to this circumstance may be attributed the want of 
 roofs to the houses. 
 
 In the direction of the mountain are remains of large 
 buildings richly ornamented and of a fine style of archi- 
 tecture, in which were united the establishments relative 
 to religion, gymnastic exercises, the sciences and fine arts. 
 
 PORTICO 
 
 After passing through a small court we meet with a 
 long row of fine columns placed on the hill which com- 
 mands a view of the sea and of the neighbouring villas. 
 The portico on the right is supported by tuffo columns. 
 Near the fountain in the centre of the court is the pedestal 
 of the statue of Claudius Marcellus, son of Cajus, the pa- 
 tron of the colony of Pompeii. The portico is supported on 
 one side by 56 tuffo columns, on the other by the wall of 
 the theatre for tragic representations. 
 
 Near the last column are ruins of the principal temple, 
 the plan of which is a parallelogram 91 feet long and 63 
 wide. To the right are the city walls and the lava quarries 
 which provided building materials from time immemorial. 
 The large stair case of the tragic theatre leads to the 
 proscenium and to the public place. Over the upper door 
 of the covered gallery is an inscription to Rufus and Celer 
 Holconius who raised the theatre and tribunal at their 
 own expense for the embellishment of the colony. 
 
 M . M . HOLCONI . RVrVS . ET . CELER. 
 
 CRYPTAM . TRIBVNAL . THEATRVM. 
 
 S . P. 
 
 AD . DECVS . COLONIAE.
 
 Of Naples. 61 
 
 Near this door is the large hasin or reservoir which 
 supplied water to the formiij the waters of the Sarno , 
 after having passed through the upper parts of tlic town, 
 united in this basin and were afterwards distributed in the 
 lower quarters. 
 
 Adjoining tliis is a market place of a square form 
 surrounded with a portico of eight fluted Piperno columns 
 on one side and three on the other ; within the edifice is a 
 stone chair ascended by a (light of steps ; this was the tri- 
 bunal mentioned in the preceding inscription. 
 
 On the public way is the temple of Isis destroyed by 
 the earthquake that occurred 16 years before the eruption 
 of 79 and was rebuilt by Numei ius Celsinu* as ascertained 
 by the inscription placed over the frontispice now in the 
 museum at Naples. Its length was 84, its breadth 74 feet, 
 the portico has 8 side and 6 front columns of the doric 
 order; at the end of the temple seven steps lead to an 
 isolated sanctuary forming a small square edifice covered 
 with stuccoes , with two niches at the front and one on 
 the opposite side , the front was terminfiied by two isiac 
 tables now in the Naples museum. 
 
 A small but elegant vestibule supported by six co- 
 lumns surrounded the altar on which fragments of a statue 
 of Isis were found. Under the altar is a room from which 
 issued the oracles delivered in the name of the goddess j 
 the private stair case communicating with this room still 
 exists. The altar to the left was used for burning the vic- 
 tims, that to the right for preserving the sacred ashes. 
 
 This temple was one of the principal edifices of Pom- 
 peii ; it contained the isiac tables and numerous paintings 
 representing Isis with the Sistrum , Anubis , priests car- 
 rying branches of palm or ears of corn, the hippopotamus, 
 the ibis , arabesques , birds , dolphins, numerous utensils 
 and bronze inslrumeuls ; all these objects are now in the 
 museum.
 
 62 Environs 
 
 Several chambers placed in the interior were pro- 
 bably used as habitations by the priests of Isis ; in one 
 was found a skeleton holding an iron bar with which two 
 walls had been partly broken. 
 
 The consular road is crossed by another street thus 
 dividing the cily into four equal parts. In the centre of 
 the temple of Esculapius is a large altar of tuffo , nine 
 steps lead to the sanctuary which was probably covered 
 judging from the traces of its fallen columns. 
 
 One of the most curious discoveries at Pompeii is 
 the sculptor's studio which contained several marble sta- 
 tues, some finished, others merely roughed out, quantities 
 of marble destined for other works , utensils and tools 
 now in the academy at Naples, the house is large, around 
 the court is a portico of ten brick columns covered with 
 stucco. 
 
 THE COVERED THEATRE 
 
 The two contiguous theatres are separated by a por- 
 tico. The first was used for comic and satirical represen- 
 tations , the second larger and of a better style of archi- 
 tecture for tragedy. Over the door of the comic theatre is 
 an inscription purporting that « it was built with the 
 funds which the Duumvirs Caius Quinlius the son of Cajus 
 and Marcus Porcius had stipulated to raise the covered 
 theatre in consequence of a decree rendered by the de- 
 curions. >• 
 
 As it was not customary amongst the ancients to 
 light their theatres it has created surprize that this should 
 have been covered , but Philostrates mentions a similar 
 edifice at Corinth , Pliny one at Romej the end of the 
 semicircular wall indicates the place of the columns 
 through which sufficient light penetrated to illuminate 
 the interior, this kind of theatre was called Odeon.
 
 Of Naples. 63 
 
 TRAGIC THEATRE 
 
 This edifice, the most magnificent of Pompeii , is 
 attributed to Marcus Rufusj its ruins prove the perfection 
 which architecture had attained in those times j on the 
 upper part of the walls are the blocks of stone which 
 supported the beams used to secure the awning which 
 sheltered the spectators from the rain or sun. 
 
 The adjoining portico was called the soldiers' quar- 
 ter from the chains, arms and instruments of punishment 
 found on the spot, but subsequent observations have shown 
 that it was the portico which , according to the rules of 
 Vitruvius, always led to the theatre. Its form was a rect- 
 angle 100 paces long and 60 wide. It consisted of 22do- 
 ric octangular columns on the length and 15 on the width, 
 of a volcanic tuffo covered with stucco died red or yellow. 
 
 THE AMPHITHEATRE 
 
 Was one of the most splendid edifices of Pompeii 
 and was the scene of a combat between the Nocerians and 
 inhabitants of the city related by Tacitus in the 14. th 
 book of his A.nnals.This edifice has been but little injured. 
 Near it is 
 
 THE FORUM 
 
 At one end of which is a temple of rectangular form 
 paved with mosaic j on one side is the basilic destined for 
 the administration of justice with several houses adjoi- 
 ning 5 beyond this is an extensive piazza with large por- 
 ticos and columns and in its centre is another temple 
 resembling that of the forum. 
 
 Not far distant a large edifice has been discovered 
 which by ir.eans of an inscription informs us of the dcs-
 
 64 Environs 
 
 lination of llie buildings called Chalcldlcum a ma^e 
 statue of the priestess Eumachia wns found here which 
 is finely executed and well preserved} the inscription on 
 the pedestal indicates that it was raised by the bleachers 
 in testimony of their gratitude. It is placed iu the museum. 
 A large temple called the Pantheon has some fine 
 paintings under its portico. In another part of the Forum 
 another temple has been found dedicated to the Fortunffi 
 Augustse J it was embellished according to the inscription 
 it bears , by « I\I. Tullius Marci filius. » In this dircdlion 
 the edifice destined for the public baths , thai for the 
 bleaclaing of linen, called Fullouica, and the house of the 
 tragic poel have also been discovered. 
 
 STABIA 
 
 Situated four miles from Pompeii in the vicinity of 
 Castellamare was inhabited by the Osci-, the Etruscans, 
 the Pelasgians and finally by the Saniniles. These last were 
 driven away by the Romans under the consulate of Cato. 
 The town was afterwards destroyed by Sylla and reduced 
 to the state of a simple village when it was buried under 
 the ashes of Vesuvius iu the eruption of 79. Its ruins have 
 furnished numerous papyri preserved together with those 
 of llerculaneum in the museum of Naples. 
 
 SALERNO 
 
 This town, formerly the capital of the Picentines, is 
 built at the extremity of a bay, its cathedral contains nu- 
 merous remains of monuments from the ancient city of 
 Psestum, consisting of marble columns, porphyry vases, 
 mosaics, and two large vases now used for the holy water, 
 on one of which is sculptured the Indian expedition of 
 Alexander and his arrival at Nisa, which oily the ambas-
 
 Of Naples. 65 
 
 sadors supplicate liim lo spare in consideralion of Bacchus^ 
 on the olhcr are represenled a vintage and a Bacchanalian 
 procession. 
 
 Eijjhleen miles from Salerno is the Silaro , now the 
 Sele , a river celebrated for the petrifying qualities of its 
 waters and four miles from the Silaro in the niidsl of an 
 extensive plain is 
 
 P^STUM 
 
 This city, situated on the eastern coast of the gulf of 
 Salerno, was formerly included in the province ofLucania. 
 Its first inhabitants were Osci, it became a phocnician co- 
 lony, and was subsequently occupied by the Sybarites 
 and the Samnites. On some ancient medals found at Pses- 
 tum is the legend of the Osci, with au armed Neptune to 
 whom the city was dedicated. 
 
 The buildings of Paestum have a peculiar character 
 indicating their doric origin and the infancy of art j their 
 solidity resulting from enormous blocks of square stone, 
 the architecture of the temples differing from the rules of 
 Yitruvius , the houses built not according to the greek 
 style but to the conveuiencies sought for at that time, all 
 these circumstances announce that the first colonists of 
 Pa;stum were Phoenicians and recall to mind the inclina- 
 tion of that people for solid and durable woiks. 
 
 When the city fell under the dominion of the Syba- 
 rites, a people of Grecian origin celebrated for their luxury 
 and riches, Pffistum acquired a greater degree of splendour. 
 The walls, the temples and other buildings were embel- 
 lished and the remains show an evident difference between 
 the periods of their construction , the one being rough 
 and massive, the other light and elegant. 
 
 The Sybarites were compelled to yield to the Sam- 
 nites who in their turn fell under the yoke of Rome. After
 
 66 Environs 
 
 the fall of the empire the city came into the possession of 
 the Saracens and in 915 it was completely destroyed. 
 
 The walls of the city describe an ellipse of 2 1/2 
 miles , on an elevation of 53 feet the same height as the 
 walls of Carthage according to Diodorus. They consist of 
 enormous blocks of stone of a square or hexagon form , 
 sometimes 25 feet in length , end are united in such a 
 manner that they appear to form but one mass. The en- 
 trance into the city was by four gates ; the north gate 
 which alone remains , was about 50 feet high and was 
 composed of the same species of stone as the walls, one 
 of the has reliefs of the arch represents the Syren of Pses- 
 tum and a dolphin, symbols of the ancient maritime people 
 that founded the city. A rampart enclosed within the 
 walls presented a second means of defence to the citadel 
 when the gates of the city were forced. In the interme- 
 diate space are the quarters of the soldiers and the pave- 
 ment of the ancient road : the ramparts were protected 
 by eight square towers some of which still exist. 
 
 Beyond the western gate are several ruins of tombs 
 covered with paintings near which were found an armour 
 of greek workmanship and some beautiful vases one of 
 which is ornamented with ten figures and greek inscrip- 
 tions. On one Hercules is represented seizing the golden 
 apple in the garden of the Hesperides in despite of the 
 dragon. These works are in the Naples museum. 
 
 The most remarkable of the ruins of Psestum is 
 
 THE TEMPLE OF NEPTUNE 
 
 composed of enormous blocks of square stone in the form 
 of a quadrilater 169 feet long and 75 wide. The two sides 
 of the portico have six lluted columns of the doric order 
 supporting a large has relief and a frontispiece similar to 
 that of the Pantheon at Rome j on the sides of the temple
 
 Of Naples. 67 
 
 are 28 fluted columns without base , as customary in re- 
 mote times, resting on the three steps surrounding the ex- 
 ternal part of the edifice. The entrance into the portico 
 is by two flights of steps ; it is supported by two pilasters 
 and two central columns} the same arrangements prevail 
 on the opposite side. 
 
 The cella of the temple is closed by four walls with 
 a second order composed of 14 columns of a light style 
 disposed in rows of seven each. These columns support 
 large blocks of the architrave over which is another row 
 of small columns under the roofs , of these only eight re- 
 main. The style of construction of this temple differs so 
 widely from the greek and vitruvian rules that its origin 
 may be attributed to the heroic ages when simplicity, and 
 not elegance , was the predominating principle of archi- 
 tecture. 
 
 Near the temple of Neptune are the ruins of the 
 
 THEATRE AND AMPHITHEATRE 
 
 The theatre is in such a state of ruin that its plan is 
 traced with difficulty. Several fragments spread over the 
 ground , with sculptured griffins and other emblematic 
 figures prove that this edifice was erected at a period of 
 improved architecture, and it is evident from the has re- 
 liefs that it united elegance to magnificence. In the vicinity 
 of the theatre are the ruins of the amphitheatre which 
 was situated in the middle of the town •, though no part 
 remains it is easy to distinguish that it was of an oval 
 form, that its greatest diameter was 177 and its smallest 
 122 feet. 
 
 About fifty paces from the amphitheatre is the 
 
 TEMPLE OF CERES 
 
 Although this temple is of smaller dimensions than 
 that of Neptune it possesses greater lightness and elegance.
 
 68 Environs 
 
 The exlernal part is 85 feet in length, ancl 44 in breadth j 
 the portico consists of 13 columns on the lateral and 6 on 
 the front side all fluted , without base , and resting on 
 the lowest of the three steps surrounding the temple, 
 their height is 16 and their diameter 4 feet. The cella 
 was supported by six columns , it was enclosed on the 
 four sides by walls and still offers traces of the sanctuary 
 and altars used in the sacrifices. 
 
 THE CURIA OR PORTICO 
 
 Is open on all sides and is supposed to have served 
 for a public walk ; it is 169 feet long and 85 wide, the co- 
 lumns are fluted doric without base resting on the three 
 surrounding steps. On the exterior are eighteen columns, 
 three central and two lateral in the vestibule. 
 
 The portico was divided iuto two equal parts by a 
 row of columns placed in a right line three of which still 
 exist; the adjoining pavement is elevated in order to af- 
 ford a separate place for the magistrates and principal ci- 
 tizens j the columns are a diameter and a half from each 
 other , a distance greater than that on the side columns, 
 which leaves a sufiicient space to lake exercice. The edi- 
 fice is of an elegant style of architecture as appears by the 
 fine form of the columns and capitals which are more 
 ornamented than tbose of the temples, thus indicating a 
 second period of the doric order. 
 
 CASERTA 
 
 The ancient town of Caserta is situated in the Ti- 
 phatin mountains three miles from the palace which was 
 built by Charles III near ancient Capua, sixteen miles 
 north of Naples.
 
 Of Naples. 69 
 
 THE PALACE 
 
 Was commenced in 1 752 on the designs of Vanvitelli, 
 and is considered to be the most magnificent in Italy. 
 
 Its form is rectangular on a length of 746, a breadth 
 of 576, and a height of 113 feel. In each of the stories of 
 the two principal facades are thirty six windows with 
 columns, and square towers at the four angles ; the facade 
 is composed of two columns and two pilasters with five 
 windows. The centre of the edifice is surmounted by an 
 octagon cupola; the great entrance leads to a portico 
 formed of 98 columns of Sicilian marble 507 feet long; 
 four sides of the three octagon vestibules lead to four large 
 courts, of the other two one unites with the stair case , 
 the other is occupied by the statue of glory croy?ned by 
 Hercules. The courts are 299 feel long and 163 wide ; the 
 facades of the building over the courts are composed of 
 Caserta marble and distributed in as many covered arches 
 over wbicU ^re the apartments. 
 
 The stai" case consists of a hundred marble steps , 
 each 19 1/2 feet in length , the walls are inlaid with co- 
 loured rnrble ; at the foot of the stairs are two lions of 
 a fine style of sculpture , the statues in the niches repre- 
 sent trUiU , majesty, and merit. 
 
 The vestibule on the side stair case of an octagon 
 form is supported by 24 Corinthian columns. 
 
 The chapel may be compared to a large splendid 
 church in which are 16 columns of green Sicilian marble; 
 the high altar is adorned with four yellow columns ; near 
 the great entrance to the west is the theatre, the gardens 
 are towards the north. 
 
 THE AQUEDUCT 
 
 The territory of Airola is abundantly supplied with 
 water by nine ditfcrent springs which united with the
 
 70 Environs 
 
 Faeuza, a stream passing near S. Agata de'Gothi join the 
 Volturuo. An aqueduct built by Vanvilelli now brings 
 them to Caserta, a distance in a straight line of 12 miles 
 hut amounting to 27 with the sinuosities. 
 
 In building the aqueduct an obstacle presented itself 
 in two high mountains separated by the valley of the Mad- 
 dalone : these were perforated at a place called Prato on 
 a length of 1 100 toises in the tufFo : at Ciesco of 980 , of 
 570 at Gargano, and 300 at Rocca forming a line of 2950 
 toises. 
 
 The bridge is the point of junction of these waters , 
 and is admired for its architecture: it consists of a triple 
 row of arches placed over each other: the first row is 
 formed of 19, the second of 27 and the third of 43 arches. 
 The pilasters of the first row are 33 feet thick and 49 
 high : the aqueduct was completed in 1759. 
 
 At S. Leucio , near Caserta , is a silk manufactory 
 which supplies means of subsistence to hundreds of per- 
 sons of the indigent class. At a distance of twenty iuilcs 
 from Caserta and thirty seven from Naples is 
 
 BENEVENTO 
 
 A city supposed to have been founded hy Diomed ^ 
 king of Etolia 477 years before the Roman era. It was 
 once inhabited by the Samnites and became a Roman colo- 
 ny: the amphitheatre is now covered wilh modern houses: 
 the Senale laised an arch to Trajan which at present 
 forms one of the gates. 
 
 Benevento was occupied by the Goths in 490, by 
 the Lombards in 571 ; in 787 it came under the domi- 
 nion of Charlemagne whose successors preserved it until 
 891 when they were driven away by the Greeks. At the 
 time of Leo the 9.lh it was exchanged for Bamberg , a
 
 Of Naples. 71 
 
 lown of Franconia and since 1077 Benevenlo has always 
 belonged to llie See of Ronne. 
 
 The town is situated on a hill under which pass the 
 Sabbato and the Galore and is surrounded with ramparts 
 in a circuit of 2 1/2 miles j the population consists of about 
 16000 souls. 
 
 On the piazza of the cathedral is a small egyptian 
 obelisk and a lion in marble of a good style of sculpture. 
 The palace of the Archbishop contains a library of printed 
 works and codes from the XI to the XIV century. 
 
 ARCH OF TRAIAN 
 
 Of the numerous triumphal arches raised to this 
 emperor only two remain j one in Benevento where 
 it was erected in the year 113 and one at Ancona. 
 judging from the beauty and elegance of these arches it 
 is supposed that they are the work of the greek architect 
 Apollodorus who, according to Dio Cassias , was employed 
 by Trajan in the embellishments of Rome. 
 
 This arch is of greek marble and of the corinlhian 
 order , eiglit fluted columns of the composite order rest 
 on a double base. The spaces on the sides of the arch 
 are filled up with has reliefs representing sacrifu^es and 
 the exploits of the emperor, on the two fi ieses are also 
 has reliefs, that of the entablature represents a trium- 
 phal march; in the angles ere reclining figures emble- 
 matic of rivers, on the attic over the entablature is the 
 inscription with bas reliefs, and over the arch is a winged 
 statue of fame crowning Trajan.
 
 72 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 JOURNEY from Rome to Naples Pag. 3 
 
 By Terracina ib. 
 
 Velleiri ib. 
 
 Cfsleina « 4 
 
 Pontine Marshes « 5 
 
 Terracinn . . « 8 
 
 Fondi, Ilri « 10 
 
 Mola di Gaela, Gaela « 11 
 
 Capua «14 
 
 Aversa «16 
 
 JOURNEY of Horace. . . • ..17 
 
 By Monlecnssino « 19 
 
 The Fucine lake « 23 
 
 NAPLES ;....« 25 
 
 Albergo de' Poveri « 36 
 
 Catacombs « ib. 
 
 Caslel Niiovo « 28 
 
 « deirUovo « 29 
 
 « S. Ermo « 52 
 
 Churches S. Antonio « 37 
 
 S. Giacomo « 28 
 
 S. Olaria pie di grolta « 50 
 
 « del parlo « 31 
 
 « degli angeli « 29 
 
 S. Marlino « 32 
 
 S. Spiilto « 53 
 
 Camaldoli « 32 
 
 Monte OHveto « 55 
 
 Trinita or Gesii nuovo « 37 
 
 S. Chiara « ib.
 
 Index. 7 3 
 
 Churches S. Domenico Maggiore Pag- 38 
 
 S. Seveia « ib. 
 
 S. Paolo « 25 
 
 S. Lorenzo ^8 
 
 S. Filippo Neri « 3^ 
 
 S. Aposloli "41 
 
 Annunciation « ib. 
 
 Del Carmine. 
 
 Caseria 
 
 42 
 
 Capuchin '*'* 
 
 S. Pioculus « 45 
 
 Gesu Yecchio •38 
 
 S. Januarius « 39 
 
 S. Theresa 33 
 
 Studii " Jb- 
 
 Pfl/ace5 Toledo * 27 
 
 Capo di Monte « 35 
 
 Delia Yicana « ii 
 
 69 
 
 Porlici « 52 
 
 P/azze Caslel Nuovo « 28 
 
 S. Spii-ito 33 
 
 Monte Olivetlo •55 
 
 Del Mercato * ^^ 
 
 Pizzo Falcone « ^y 
 
 Posilippo. « 28 
 
 Theatres S. C^r\o « 27 
 
 Fiorentini « 28 
 
 Fondo i'^' 
 
 S. Carlino »''• 
 
 Tomb of Virgil « ^0 
 
 Pozzuoli ' ^ 
 
 Amphitheatre a 47 
 
 Coast « 49 
 
 Lakes Lucrin * . 
 
 Averno ' "
 
 74 Index. 
 
 Agnano Pag. 43 
 
 Acheron ,....« 50 
 
 Misenum « ib. 
 
 Grotta del Cane .^ 43 
 
 Solfatara « 44 
 
 Temple of Augustus 45 
 
 « of Serapis « 46 
 
 Villa of Cicero « 47 
 
 Baice « 49 
 
 Baths of Nero « 48 
 
 Cento Camerelle « 50 
 
 Coast of. « 49 
 
 Liternum « 52 
 
 Cumce "51 
 
 Benevento « 70 
 
 Arch of Trajan. ........ 71 
 
 Herculaneum « 52 
 
 Pompeii « 56 
 
 House of Diomed « 58 
 
 Portico 60 
 
 Temple of Isis « 61 
 
 Temple of Esculapius. ....... 62 
 
 Amphitheatre . . ■ « 63 
 
 Forum « ib. 
 
 Theatres 62 
 
 Fesiivius « 54 
 
 Slahia « 64 
 
 Salerno ib. 
 
 Pcestiim < 65 
 
 Temple of Neptune « 66 
 
 « of Ceres « 67 
 
 Curia or portico « 68
 
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