I o ■ o n JI City Of HEIiptlES Br the Authors or Wistofjc Winchester With Etchings by W. B Roberts R. P. E. \ I to ri!'" : ii'i *8p .::;; :: . "•I'M:-' 7 THOniHS WENTWORTH H1GGINSON. THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES L '■f foe y~^"-e £- £ -o w V^m^*-jt, A CITY OF MEMORIES A CITY OF MEMORIES BY A. R. BRAMSTON AND A. C. LEROY AUTHORS OF "HISTORIC WINCHESTER" WITH A PREFACE BY THE LORD BISHOP OF WINCHESTER ETCHINGS AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY W. B. ROBERTS, S.P.E. WINCHESTER: P. & G. WELLS LONDON: DAVID NUTT 270 STRAND 1893 All rights reserved PREFACE HESE picturesque Sketches have in my humble judgment one fault, a fault which may possibly be thought to indicate their merit — there are not enough of them. The mighty Bishop of the last half of the Four- teenth Century almost fills the scanty canvas at the authors' disposal ; and some readers may covet a glimpse of the ill- fated espousals of Philip and Mary ; and of the magnificent obsequies of Gardiner ; and of the good-humoured Stuart King, sauntering with not too sedate a following in the Deanery Garden ; and of the infamous trial of Sir Walter Raleigh, one of England's foremost statesmen ; and of the grim brutality of Jeffreys at the Bloody Assize. Of course, too, here and there some of the historical and antiquarian references may be found open to criticism : and yet it need not follow that wisdom is always with the critics. To one person, among others, it is new that Morley 11CSG42 vi PREFA CE ever lived at Wolvesey. Certainly, Sir W. Waller had left it in ruins when Morley came to the See ; and though it was rebuilt (probably by Wren), at Morley's charges, the building was not finished at his death, and he left money for its completion. No doubt he may have inhabited it before it was finished ; but Trelawney was the first Bishop after the Restoration to occupy it in its restored dignity ; also, alas ! the last. What has been described, not without a certain pathos, as " The City of Memories " still lives and moves in no ignoble repose. If Winchester may in a very real sense be called "the History of England in stone," she still holds a foremost place in educational activities, in the gracious amenities of her cultured social life, in the capacity and learning of her resident clergy, in her far-reaching influence on the Diocese, It has been said — remarkably said — that " the dead rule the living." Winchester is more than content to be still ruled by William of Wykeham and Lancelot Andrewes. The hills yet stand round our Jerusalem : the hills which have seen so much and said nothing ; the hills over which William of Wykeham's students still gaily roam, and up which Waltheof went to die ; the hills which have looked down on sieges and con- flagrations, and on the Black Death ; on sacred buildings slowly rising, on stately festivities, and on "tragic mockeries" of justice ; the hills which we may still look on as the Psalmist of old looked up at his hills in Judea, as a sort PRE FA CE vii of inspired testimony to the righteous government of God, and the indestructibleness of His Church, at once a symbol of protection, of immovableness, and of endurance for times of trouble that may be very near at hand. A. WINTON. Farnham Castle, St. Peter's Day, 1893. CONTENTS PAGE A CITY OF MEMORIES i A MASTER BUILDER 21 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY . . 55 The Illustrations are Etchings and Reproductions of Drawings. The Etching " Evening Chapel" (Winchester College), which forms the Frontispiece, has been selected by F. Seymour Haden, Esq., President of the Society of Painter-Etchers, as one of the representative Etchings to be framed as a wedding present for H.R.H. the Duke of York. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS A CITY OF MEMORIES PAGE evening chapel — (Etching) .... Frontispiece CITY FROM ST. GILES' HILL 6 COLLEGE BUILDINGS 12 FINIALS IN CHAMBER COORT 14 BEAUFORT'S TOWER ........ 17 A MASTER BUILDER morning chapel — (Etching) 20 TONBRIDGE 26 ST. JOHN'S CHURCH ........ 35 COLLEGE GATE 43 COLLEGE TOWER 46 wykeham's EFFIGY 50 LITTLE MONKS 53 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIJEVAL CITY THE GREAT HALL ... 60 CRYPT 62 BUTTER CROSS 68 KINGSGATE 75 WOLVESEY PALACE. ........ 8l REFECTORY KITCHEN 88 WINNALL 93 A CITY OF MEMORIES 11 Into that old Past we love to look, because in it was life; into it we dare to look, because that life is now in us — and that same gift we do believe we may pass to those beyond us." — Bishop S. Wilberforce. T is no small thing to live in a city of memories where, not here and there, but at every turn, the past is brought before us. It seems to give us wider sympathies with the men and women who long ago laboured for the common weal, but who now lie sleeping around us. Besides, it is something of a relief, amidst the stir and bustle of this age, and the ceaseless talk of working for the good of future generations, to transport our- selves back into old Winchester and to mingle with the motley crowd which gathered near the entrance of the castle to see the King go forth, or respectfully waited on my Lord Bishop in his walled palace to petition for some favour, or dashed out in bright- coloured garments to swell the civic procession on its way to the Cathedral, eager for the spectacle of the marriage of a Queen of England or the christening of an heir of the realm. Only by thus living in memory with them can we fully appre- ciate the labours of our forefathers, and understand what great ends they achieved with what we should consider in these days A 2 A CITY OF MEMORIES very small means. Non nobis nati, not for ourselves are we born, and Winchester, of all the cities of England, owes its greatest debt of gratitude to the Past. But where shall we begin ? We see in the dim distance the Gwen or Gwent, the " White Place " of the Celtic Briton, which also found favour in the eyes of the civilised Roman conqueror. Under the latter the place stands out more clearly, for he laid his mark on the White City (as he did on every town and country he added to his empire), making it the capital of the district he called Venta Belgarum, building his villas and carrying on his traffic here ; and though so many centuries have gone by, we still find beneath our streets and gardens his beautiful tessellated pavements, his finely engraved coins, and his figures of winged Hermes ; and we still walk along the six military ways which the greatest road-makers of the world left behind them as trophies of their power. But the Roman disappears and our English forefathers take his place. Venta becomes Wintana, and the Saxon, doubtless seeing the old British camp on St. Catherine's Hill, adds the Roman " castra " to the name, which after a time becomes Winchester, the city which for more than a thousand years has proudly handed down her famous names for our love and reverence. With Saxon invader the cloud of heathen barbarity falls over the land, and seems at first to blot out the early British Chris- tianity ; yet out of the darkness emerges again the true faith, and by the seventh century we find in our capital of the West Saxons a Cathedral named after St. Peter and St. Paul, and consecrated by St. Birinus the bishop, who, when occasion arises — so says A CITY OF MEMORIES 3 tradition — can walk upon the water, and who in any case is associated with that building which the common folk called " Peter's Hus." Now comes a time of Saxon kings and bishops ; some noble, some weak, some warlike, and all craving to build strong castles during their life, and to have the honour of burial in the Cathe- dral after their death. Wolvesey Castle is said to have been first built by a king for a bishop. Be that as it may, we know it existed in Alfred's time, and we may saunter now about its ruins (twelfth-century though the present ones be), and believe that St. Wilfrid himself walked on that " Island of Wolf," as the name signifies ; aye, and St. Hedda too ; and St. Swithun, who built strong walls round his beloved Cathedral to prevent inroads of the new enemies, the fierce Danes, then striking terror into the heart of every monk and citizen. But we must pause longer at Alfred. His name is familiar to every Englishman, and though to many he is known chiefly by somewhat legendary stories, yet at Winchester he is a very real hero ; here where he fought, and meted out justice, and wrote the chronicle of his times, and thought out the best means of educat- ing the young nobles ; here where he, together with his wife, built the " Nunne Mynstre," whither gentlewomen might retire to pray and work. Great men could not write books then, but they could write in stone, and they did so ; yet, like David of old, Alfred had to leave one design which was very near his heart to be carried out by his son, for the Newan Mynstre planned by him was built by 4 A CITY OF MEMORIES Edward the Elder. It was close to the Monastery of St. Swithun (on part of the site of which the Deanery now stands), and to it Alfred's bones were moved from the Cathedral, to be thence again translated to Hyde Abbey, of which famous building nothing now remains but a gateway and a (qw stones, though of its inner life from its foundation to its fall we can still read in the Liber de Hyda. Troubled times succeed ; Saxon is followed by Dane, Dane by Norman, and to William, fierce and strong, Winchester is given by a woman. It was the Lady Eadgyth's " morning gift " from her husband, but, making a virtue of necessity, she gave to the Conqueror what he with high hand would otherwise have taken. These Normans were famous writers of stone books ; they built and built, and some of the Roman strength is in their stones and cement, so that Norman memorials are still with us. William scorning to use the Saxon castle, built another lower down ; yet the very site of his is lost, and it is our own County Hall, work of thirteenth-century date, which marks the place of the earlier stronghold. The Saxon Cathedral, however, as well as the Abbey at Westminster, sees our Conqueror crowned. William has three Legates from the Pope to place that circlet on his head four years after he had crowned himself King of England ! But of the many royal visitors to the royal city — and before the nineteenth century not a king or queen but came hither for a longer or a shorter time — we can notice only a few : John kneeling here at Archbishop Langton's feet ; Henry of Winchester dining with the bishop, coercing the monks of St. Swithun's, hanging freebooters, becoming reconciled to his son ; Bluff King A CITY OF MEMORIES 5 Hal doing the honours of the city during a week's visit from the great Emperor Charles V., to whom is shown, as to us now, King Arthur's Round Table of disputed date, which may have been used at tournaments, and around which many a warrior, if not " that goodliest fellowship of noble knights," has probably sat in bygone days ; and another royal Spaniard celebrating his loveless marriage with Queen Mary, after which follows the great banquet at Wolvesey, and a ball where English dancing is proved to be more than equal to that of the Spanish grandees. And, again, down the line of memories the ill-fated king — is he saint or traitor ? — comes here from Hurst ; not as a proud monarch now, but as a prisoner, to whom the people vainly try to show respect, and thereby get themselves roughly called to order by the Roundhead gaoler. Seventeen years later the bells that have tolled can also ring out peals of joy to receive the " Merrie Monarch." More than once he comes and begins to build that palace which is now a fit home for soldiers, a legacy, as it were, from the king who had seen so much of camp life. But other names not royal rise before us — those of a long line of bishops who lived and worked at Winchester, wielding the spiritual sword with power, some of them not averse to using even the carnal weapon also : the kind-hearted Swithun ; the ambitious Stigand ; Walkelyn (whose Cathedral would now perhaps be hardly recognised by him, and in whose time Archbishop Lanfranc came hither to preside at a Synod, and boldly laid down the prohibition, " Let no canon have a wife ") ; Henry of Blois, the founder of St. Cross, and the war-loving De Roches ; 6 A CITY OF MEMORIES the great master-builder, William of Wykeham ; Beaufort, the Cardinal Bishop ; Fox, the blind ex-Minister ; the learned and saintly Lancelot Andrewes ; down to Bishop Wilberforce, who was not too witty to be wise. And other men of national fame, besides kings and priests, have walked about our streets, and have had to do more or less with the old city, so linking us by something better than mere \m * ^nFii^te^r- CITY r FROM ST. GILES' HILL hearsay with the great ever-flowing life, political and literary, of the English people. The half-mythical Guy of Warwick has left a record of his single combat with the Dane in Danemark Mede ; Waltheof, Earl of Kent, died for freedom on St. Giles' Hill, which overlooks the town ; Sir Walter Raleigh stood before his judges here in the great hall of the Castle, and nobly defended his innocence when accused of plotting against King James, A CITY OF MEMORIES 7 whilst the ill-fated Arabella Stuart looked on and pitied herself and him ; and at Wolvesey Palace later on good old Izaak Walton came to live with Bishop Morley, here in the Close he died, and we can read his epitaph, probably written by his brother- in-law who bore another name Winchester holds dear — Bishop Ken. Here Marlborough remonstrated with his Romanist king ; here the Iron Duke was triumphantly dragged in his carriage to receive the freedom of the city ; and here to the quiet Cathedral town came the boy-poet Keats, who was to win fame only when life was ended. Most likely it was in the Square or Minster Street that he lodged, for he tells us how every day he walks down the Lime Avenue and through the two Closes and out to St. Cross, and finds " every pint of air worth sixpence ! " He is working at upsetting " the drawling of the blue-stocking literary world ; " but better still, he is writing his " Ode to Autumn " and " Lamia," and finds Winchester very suitable for thought. " There is a fine Cathedral," he says; "part of it built 1400 (?) years ago, and the more modern by a magnificent man called William of Wickham." Then he tells his love, Fanny Brawne, that at Winchester he shall get her letters sooner. " It being a Cathedral city, I shall have the pleasure, always a great one to me when near a Cathedral, of reading them during the service up and down the aisle." A delightfully original picture this of the young poet whose words glow like richest Italian painting, and on whose brow Death had already laid its mark, walking up and down the great nave, reading his love-letters, whilst the music of prayer and 8 A CITY OF MEMORIES praise is going up within the choir. Winchester gave him what the ignorant and cruel critics denied him, comfort and refreshment. And what of Jane Austen, who came in her last illness to die here ? Two epitaphs there are to her memory in the home of the famous dead : one when she was only simple Miss Austen, who had written books that were badly paid for ; the other fifty years later, when all England had agreed that she had become classic. And in our own time another poet walked sometimes along that High Street which is the very Roman via of old, not one crushed by criticism, but crowned with laurels ; and a statesman — passionately hated or beloved — of whom posterity will pos- sibly form a juster estimate, has received a welcome in the college quadrangle from many of England's future leaders, and spoken words of encouragement to them ; and the gentle womanly author who gave England a picture of how any man could make himself a gentleman, walked within Wykeham's walls and heard Wykeham's sons sing " their sweet song of home " in the last summer of her life. But Winchester may claim for its own the woman who first wove Daisy Chains of matchless purity for England's maiden- hood. Here are some names out of our long list of memories, but from the lives of a few of them let us pick out two or three scenes, for such pictures once impressed on our minds make the dead bones of history live again, and bridging over the inter- vening years we thereby endow the past with the reality of the present. A CITY OF MEMORIES 9 (EnnV^ 6rtft There must have been very mixed feelings on the day when all Winchester knew that Cnut the Dane was coming for an act of special worship to the Saxon Cathedral — mixed, because the great Dane was one of the dreaded Vikings and a foreigner, and though now King of England, yet that title had not been gained without many a deed hardly in accordance with his religion. And, on their side, the citizens had the sad feast-day of St. Brice to remember, when the massacre of the peaceable Danes had begun in this very town. Since then, often had the gates of the city been hastily closed, because the wild hordes of those Danes had been seen without ; " an army daring and fearless," says the chronicler, passing by on their way to the sea, and everywhere teaching the Saxons that revenge is sweet. But later these same enemies had to be admitted into Winchester, and the proud Saxon had to bow before the prouder Dane ; nay, he had to doff his cap humbly and speak softly to " My Lord Dane," for fear of losing the head which the cap covered. But that bad time was over. Cnut, the fair-haired youth of twenty, had conquered the kingdom, and was ruling wisely and well ; he wished to be looked upon as the Saxon's king, and therefore had married Ethelred's widow, and with a kind of simple barbaric splendour he wished his religious actions to match his royal fame, saying to his subjects, " I do you to wit that I will be a kind lord, and unfailing to God's rights and to right secular law." io A CITY OF MEMORIES Now Cnut was coming on an errand that made all the citizens crowd together ; eorls, thanes, reeves, villeins, mingled with the Danish settlers in the city to witness his arrival from South- ampton, as the news spread that he was come to offer up his crown in the Cathedral ! Amidst the flattering acclamations he halts at the Cathedral door, and enters St. Peter's House, the work of Bishop yEthel- wold, already rich with gifts of Saxon benefactors — rich, too, in saintly relics, especially those of the famous St. Swithun. Looking at all this he must think his gift none too great, and yet it is not a small one when we consider the pride of the fierce-natured Dane. He has come in person to place his crown above the Christ whose figure shines resplendent at the east end ; others had given lands and money, but he wishes to leave for ever his chief token of regal power above the silent image. And so the courtiers throng up the aisles ; and as bishop, clergy, and monks meet the King and conduct him to the High Altar, the " organs " of which the monk Wolstan speaks so enthusiastically peal forth. But as Cnut knelt before the High Altar he must have thought that, though as a king he offered unto a King, yet it was after all but the gift of a blood-stained mortal who had himself ordered the death of his friend, Jarl Ulf, killed when kneeling in a Danish church and before another altar; and bearing about with him such memories even a Cnut could not help learning humility. By a strange chance we know the shape of this very crown, for the young King and his Queen Emma offered also a silver cross to the New Minster, and in the register of that monastery ^— -: affjTtE ; " > - pi tifj -N^ o z Q 3 m w o w o o A CITY OF MEMORIES 13 we have a picture of the scene. And though years after another king - , far from offering anything to God, only sent rough soldiers to snatch away Cnut's golden crown from its long resting-place, we may perhaps some day see its likeness restored, so that the act which is now read of in history may be spoken of by every citizen when he looks eastward towards the choir of the old Cathedral, and beholds once more a kingly figure crowned though crucified. $n tjje College €tuatfrang;le One great statesman, architect, and bishop stands out towards the close of the fourteenth century as a bright star in the midst of dark skies. He had known poverty, he remembered poor scholars, and for years he pondered on the plan of building them a fit home, till at last on a March morning, 1387, the first stone of the school was laid, and for six years the work went on, until both great gateways, quadrangle, and chapel rose complete. Think of the joy it must have been to William of Wykeham when the work was so far finished that the scholars, who had lodged just outside the city walls, could come and take possession. It is the 28th of March, 1393. There is a joyous concourse in the town ; from every part people in holiday attire are stream- ing at an early hour towards the college. They must arrive in time to see the seventy boys walk down from St. Giles' Hill, headed by their master; and as at nine o'clock they come, bare- headed, with the cross borne aloft in front, they sing psalms of joy. 14 A CITY OF MEMORIES In the unaltered quadrangle of to-day we can fancy the whole scene. The poor are there in woollen smocks and galligaskins ; the citizens, some in similar garments but of finer fashion, some in long blue gowns and yellow stockings ; the knights gorgeous in silks and velvets ; while from out the throng the great bishop stands forth and blesses the building, and the seventy boys chant /#^<-<^ QJ THt' *V»C*E.t< the Amen of the finished work, and dream of future greatness or piety, to equal, if possible, that of their beloved founder. Pass on nearly 500 years, and in the year 1887, on the A CITY OF MEMORIES 15 anniversary of the first stone-laying, that same quadrangle is filled with scholars ; again prayers rise in that beautiful spot, and a nineteenth-century bishop lifts up his right hand and blesses Wykeham's work, which has brought forth such abundant fruit, and grey-haired Wykehamists bare their heads as the words " O God, our help in ages past," float upward in the spring sunshine. Their chapel cannot hold them all now, and two and two, both old and young, pass down College Street, and through the Close to the Cathedral, where another bishop — also one of Wykeham's sons — preaches on the building lessons of the master-builder, whilst opposite to him Wykeham, the man so practical as well as so spiritual, sleeps in his beautiful chantry. & ©arbtaal'si Heatj)=fceb The high-born bishop, Cardinal Beaufort, is dying at Wolvesey Palace. His seventy years have been filled with work ; but though he may be a king's grandson, and greater than his predecessor Wykeham by ancestry and riches, yet he cannot be compared to him in true nobility. The citizens and common people discuss his life now that he lies there helpless among them. Was he not Chancellor when only twenty-six, and had he not mixed himself up in all the political turmoils of that time ? Had not Prince Hal, when he became king, made his uncle Chancellor for the second time — ■ perhaps because he had been useful to him and had unloosed his purse-strings in the war with France ? The elder citizens well 16 A CITY OF MEMORIES remember the great banquet at Winchester before the King left England, when the Archbishop of Bruges and Monsieur the Ambassador of France had dined in the city, which friendly feast had not, however, prevented Agincourt. The people talk also of their bishop's crusade, though his travels had not led him as far as the Holy Sepulchre ; and if until late years he had not been much in his diocese, yet it was a grand thing to have had a bishop so much at court, and who was one of the most powerful men in the Kingdom. At the last king's death had not Beaufort become guardian of the infant monarch, and ruled and quarrelled to his heart's content ? Then had come the offer of the Cardinal's hat and the office of Papal Legate, and envious tongues had tried to depose him from his bishopric. But he had gone off to France, had assisted at the trial of the Maid of Orleans, had again had a hard fight to keep possession of his rich See, and, holding his ground, had for nearly fifty years been the most powerful ruler in England. Latterly, however, the statesman- bishop had been oftener with them in his episcopal city, and had left work there which would make his name remembered. They have his device of a white hart chained high up in the Cathedral, where he continued Wykeham's work, there also is the new altar screen and the beautiful shrine for St. Swithun's relics, and they can see his good work at St. Cross, where the Brother- hood of Noble Poverty, added to De Blois' earlier almshouses, is entirely owing to his munificence. Now all the busy, eager, ambitious life is over, and he lies dying at Wolvesey. The clergy and monks, with Prior Aulton of St. Swithun's in full vestments, walk slowly along the streets, A CITY OF MEMORIES 17 past Wykeham's College, and through the palace gateway ; and round the dying Cardinal's bed they sing the Requiem Mass. Then he listens to his will and corrects it, for all must be left now. He has great possessions to dispose of, far more than will BEAUFORT S TOWER be needed for his beautiful shrine, which is to be a fitting monument for a king's grandson and a king's uncle. The day following he takes leave of his friends, and all through the April night they watch beside him ; the next morning the Cathedral bell tolls mournfully, for the Cardinal Bishop has passed away. 1 8 A CITY OF MEMORIES King Henry VII. and Elizabeth his queen are staying at St. Swithun's Priory so that the expected heir may be born in the old royal city, which, by reason of its being in possession of the Round Table, must ever be linked with King Arthur of pre-historic times. The Queen is safely delivered, and amidst ringing bells and blazing bonfires and general rejoicing the preparations for the christening at once begins. The " Erie of Oxenforde " is to be godfather, but he has a long journey from Suffolk, and the season is very rainy, to the worsening of the bad roads by which he must travel. The Cathedral is full of workmen handling arras and red sarsenet. The old square Norman font of Tournay stone, with its quaint legends of St. Nicholas and its symbolic birds, has a platform made near it with seven steps, so that the royal person- ages may stand in their right degrees ; but the black font is not grand enough for the actual ceremony, so a small gilt one is erected on an iron pedestal shaded by a rich canopy surmounted by a gilt ball. Sunday comes ; the chaplain goes to the Priory which adjoins the Cathedral, and with him the treasurer bearing the " Assay of Salt," which is handed to the Earl of Sussex together with a towel, and this he throws around his neck as the most graceful fashion of carrying it. A CITY OF MEMORIES 19 Then out of the Priory issues a great number of people — officials, nobles, and ladies of rank ; but the centre of attraction is the little Prince, wrapped in " a mantell of cremesyn cloth of gold furred with ermyn." He is carried by his aunt, Lady Cecil ; but his train is borne by Lady Dorset, and Sir John Cheyne supports it in the middle. The Earl of Lincoln has to help Lady Cecil, and many great ladies are round about. All the christen- ing party enter the nave by the little south door, as it is too cold and wet for the royal infant to be taken round to the great west entrance. In the Cathedral the Queen's mother, Elizabeth, having gone on first, is waiting, with a procession of ecclesiastical dignitaries, ready to receive His small Highness. Richard Fox is there, now only Secretary of the King, but his advance to the See of Win- chester is predicted. However, there is a delay in the ceremony ; they wait and wait, hoping for the arrival of the Earl of Oxford, who has been heard of not far off ; at last, three hours late, and when the babe has already been dipped in the font by the Bishop of Worcester, the noble godfather arrives, just in time to present King Arthur's namesake for confirmation to the Bishop of Exeter. The administration of this rite is very grand, for the Queen Dowager herself walks up the nave to the choir, and lays the little heir of England upon the altar during the singing of the " Veni Creator." Gifts to the shrine of St. Swithun in the retro-choir follow next, after which the anthem of the saint is sung, and censers are swung, and the scent of spices and " ipocras " fills the building. B 20 A CITY OF MEMORIES Thus ends the ceremony so far as the little prince is concerned, for Lady Cecil takes him home to his " norserye," where his cradle is a thing to wonder at, with its silver and gilt " pomelles," its ermine, and blue velvet, and gold tissue coverings, and above all its three " Lady Rocksters," who on certain occasions are to be dressed in cloth of gold. Cnut had offered his crown, but now it was a king's child that was offered to God. Who can doubt that the gift was accepted, when Prince Arthur at the age of sixteen was taken from the evil to come ? ***** These are a few of the more ancient pictures one paints in the old city as one walks along the streets, for happily memory cannot be destroyed as some of the venerable gateways and old walls have been — the first for being too narrow, and the second because they interfered with the building of unlovely modern houses. And yet even these displaced stones speak at Winchester, for the Past clings tenaciously to its home, and despite the Philistines of the last hundred years, it refuses to be utterly cast out. A MASTER BUILDER "Nations and thrones and reverend laws have melted like a dream, Yet Wykeham's zvorks are green and fresh beside the crystal stream." Lord Selborne. [ERHAPS few travellers who alight at Winchester fully realise the long historical story possessed by this old town ; still in the minds of most people the name of William of Wykeham at once rises, with more or less distinctness, when they make their way to the Cathedral — bearing on the whole of its long nave the impress of his mind — and to the College, which owes its existence to him. The more we study the life and character of this great English architect, ecclesiastic, and statesman, the more we are amazed, not only at the genius of his intellect, but also at his purity of soul. In him there were no splendid passions to counteract the splendid virtues, no sordid ambition to nullify the Christian humility of one, who, besides being "an overseer" was bound to be an " ensample to the flock." So much is the city of Winchester connected with this master-builder, that it may be well to picture to ourselves his life and times, though five centuries separate him from us. The parents of William were poor, the father a yeoman, the 22 A MASTER BUILDER mother — Sibill Bovvade — somewhat above her husband in rank. They certainly were not proud, their very surname has remained doubtful, probably it was Aas or As, or possibly Longe, and without any noble prefix or broad acres to hand it down to future genera- tions in the quiet little village of Wickham. Indeed, the country folk about there barely know the name of their great William, and certainly are not stirred by its mention ; one old villager when lately " interviewed " by a stranger, bent on collecting traditions, admitted that he had heard of him, but "he'd never zeed the man who could tell 'en anything about 'en, and 'twas funny if he lived there, that nobody seemed to know nothing consarnin' 'en " ! Certainly had any one foretold to Sibill that the little son to whom she gave birth in the autumn of 1324 would one day be the most powerful man in the realm after " my lord the king," she would have laughed to scorn the idea ; most likely her highest ambition for him was that he should grow up a God- fearing man, and follow worthily the footsteps of his father. But William was evidently a clever boy, and Sir John Scures, lord of the manor of Wickham, struck by his ability, fancied he would do no discredit to the priory school at Winchester, with which he himself was well acquainted from being also constable of the great castle in that town. This castle, which in Wykeham's time had already stood, at least in part, for over three hundred years, had sustained more than one siege, had been the prison of many important personages, and had lodged many a king within its walls. Something of its grandeur we may imagine when, having walked up the High Street and turned A MASTER BUILDER 23 to the left by the west gate, we come upon its only relic — the Great Hall — altered indeed to some extent in Wykeham's time, yet now substantially the same as when he was a boy ; the place where kings have feasted, justice has been administered, and Parliaments of England have sat. The site of "the Great Grammar School of Winchester," as William's school was called, was probably about five minutes' walk from the present college, just outside the west wall of the priory inclosure; and his masters, the worthy brethren of St. Swithun's, were prepared to teach him logic, canon law, arithmetic, and geometry, all doubtless in a foreign tongue. That they had " to construe their lessons and their things in French " (probably the French of Stratford-atte-Bow) we learn from a contemporary writer, for not yet was the language of England's former con- querors superseded by the mother tongue. The boy was an apt pupil, and from the versatility of his genius in after life we are inclined to fancy that he soon outdid his teachers. Every day William would repair to the Cathedral to hear Mass, this, most likely, being part of the monks' daily routine for their scholars, and he would enter either by the west front, then very different from the present one, or by the south door, now blocked up. If by the latter, he would, with permission of the prior, have passed through the gate of the Close, and near the pointed arches now seen at the entrance of the Deanery, though possibly they were then hidden by some of the conventual buildings ; he would have looked with respectful awe at the outside of the prior's hall, the predecessor of that now existing, and he would have walked along the cloisters, of which not a stone now remains, before he entered 24 A MASTER BUILDER the great Norman church. Not far from that entrance Richard Pekis, one of the Benedictine monks of St. Swithun's who served the Cathedral, said Mass daily at an altar placed against a pillar to which was affixed an image of the Blessed Virgin. Little William took a great liking for this spot, and never forgot the youthful fervour of his prayers to the Holy Mother ; here it was that probably he dedicated himself specially to her, calling her his patron saint (as we gather from the names of both his colleges), and here in after years was to be his chantry and his tomb. To have an idea of the Cathedral as he saw it when a boy we must not stand where Wykeham prayed, but in the north or south transept where the comparatively rude masonry, round-headed arches arranged in symmetrical triplets, massive piers and flat roof, take us back to the time of William the Conqueror, though not, as some still think, to an earlier period. The whole nave and choir were in this Norman style, and the yeoman's son, coming straight from his village home, must have looked upon it all with wonder and amazement. The old foundation of St. Cross, not a mile from Winchester, must also have been well known to William, though the church was then more entirely in the style we have been describing than it is at present. There was no Beaufort Gateway, no long cloister, and the brethren lived probably on the opposite side of the quadrangle to that which they occupy at present. Some of the poorer scholars of the " Great Grammar School " daily took the walk to St. Cross and dined in the " Hundred Men's Hall," but we do not know whether William was one of these. A MASTER BUILDER 25 It must have been on rare occasions that the school-boy was allowed to visit the town itself; when he did so, it presented a much more picturesque appearance than in these days of red brick and slated roofs. The five great arched gateways had each its chapel over it or near by ; the city walls were in fairly good preservation, and the low thatched houses were interspersed with many more churches and chapels than even there are now. The High Street was in its present position, indeed, but with a stream of water flowing down the centre of its lower part, whilst the " Brooks " which still give their names to the side streets, were far less hidden than in these days. Where now the Mechanics' Institute stands was the " Guild Hall " or " Woollen Hall ; " there probably the various craft-guilds met, these having superseded the original merchant-guild of early times, and by means of them the ordinance was enforced that each merchant should deal in only one kind of merchandise — a law which seems to us now curiously subversive of individual liberty. The Winchester of that day was a very busy trading-place. The great wool-trade carried on with Flanders necessitated the establishment of staples, and this was one of ten favoured staple towns, a fact which is still commemorated by a narrow lane, north of the High Street, rejoicing in the name of " Staple Gardens," where once stood the warehouse for wool, and where all questions of weight were decided by the king's beam. On the great fair days or at the yearly sale of wool, the town must have swarmed with Flemish merchants who, in their quaint garb and high peaked hats, would bargain over the wool sacks, and leave their strange coins in exchange for English commodities — coins 26 A MASTER BUILDER still sometimes picked up when any digging takes place. On these same fair days would be seen a curious medley of knight and yeoman, citizen and trader, serf and ecclesiastic, the dress of each dividing class from class much more sharply than it does now. The natural features of the place were of course much the same. East and west the hills (though then unspoilt by buildings) rose above the town, then, as now, the Itchen divided the low flat water meadows with many a silver thread, and then, as now, TONBRIDGE St. Catherine's Hill — a spur from the long down — looked like an isolated sentry keeping guard outside the ancient capital lest any foe should come up the valley from Southampton Water ; only, instead of being crowned with a clump of trees, it was then consecrated by a small chapel (the foundations of which can still be discerned on the uneven grass) but which, disendowed by Cardinal Wolsey, was in the seventeenth century allowed to fall into decay. But to return to the youthful scholar, who, on leaving school, became secretary to his patron, and was then — Sir John having found him capable of better things — recommended to the notice of A MASTER BUILDER 27 the Bishop of Winchester. Bishop Edingdon was glad enough to avail himself of the talent of young Wykeham, who was known to have a great genius for architecture, and there must have been plenty of work for him to do in a town so full of convents and churches, with its two castles, royal and episcopal ; besides, the bishop was meditating considerable alteration in the west front of the Cathedral. On entering this way we may notice that two windows on the north side, and one on the south, are different to their fellows. This is the first change wrought by Edingdon from the Norman to the Perpendicular ; by-and-by his secretary was to continue his work and transform the whole nave into the building which we now see. William was but twenty-three when a great event befell him — his first introduction to royalty, for in October, 1347, the city of Winchester received a visit from Edward III., of famous memory. This was doubtless an honour to his late treasurer, the bishop, and it was certainly also an expense to him, for receiving kings was no small thing in that time of unbounded hospitality ; the banquets to the Sovereign and all the retinue were most sumptuous, and the entertainment lasted for several days. At once the youthful secretary seems to have attracted the attention of the King. Perhaps the latter had heard of his engineering powers and was anxious to test them in the many warlike operations which he had on hand against Scotland. Spain, and France. The young architect must have been proud to be personally useful to his Sovereign, though he cannot but have regretted leaving the good old Edingdon who had himself just refused the archbishopric of Canterbury, preferring to remain in the 28 A MASTER BUILDER ancient royal city and to spend his money on the Cathedral, beautifying, as he deemed, the heavy Norman work by trans- forming it into the lighter style of his own day. Money indeed must have been sorely needed, for shortly after Wykeham's departure the dreadful pestilence known as the "Black Death " reached Europe and swept over the whole of that con- tinent. In England the towns suffered terribly, and half the inhabitants of the country died from its effects. Description fails before the reality of this awful plague. Winchester, with its narrow, over-crowded streets, where crows were the only scavengers, was decimated ; moreover its wool trade was ruined, for the mortality extended to the beasts, so that shepherd and sheep alike perished ; and such was the terror engendered that the commonest ties of humanity were snapped by the fear of con- tagion and death. King Edward had no lack of employment for Wykeham, or Sir William de Wykeham as he was soon called. He was made surveyor of the royal works, and that his talents became fully appreciated, is seen by such buildings as the Chapel of St. Stephen at the Palace of Westminster, and the castles at Dover and Queenborough. In 1356 he was put in charge of the castle of Windsor, the birthplace of the King, who desired to beautify it by various additions. It was no small labour to be the director of the 300 workmen here employed ; and all being finished, he must have felt relieved no less than satisfied, when, following the custom of the day, he wrote on one of the towers This made Wickatn — words which inverted would have been equally true, as that tower of Windsor certainly made the fortune of the designer. In 1359 A MASTER BUILDER 29 he became warden of all the king's castles, and soon after sub- dean of St. Martin's le Grand. Though, as a layman, he could not officiate in this church, yet he could repair it, and therefore, at his own expense, he rebuilt a part of it — little guessing that the whole site would be occupied in the future by the General Post Office. Wykeham was also taken into council about the most impor- tant events of the time, and once at least he went over to Calais with the king ; we know that he was present in the capacity of public notary at the signing of the Treaty of Bretigny — a treaty which gave some breathing-time to his exhausted country, wearied with long war. So much royal favour might have spoilt many a man, but there is not a hint of this having been the case with Wykeham ; on the contrary, we find his mind turned now more definitely towards religious subjects. The desolation of the country after the Black Death was so great that many churches were shut up from the scarcity of priests to minister in them. Whether this made Wykeham feel that he could not only build up God's temples, but that he might also strengthen the souls of His people, we cannot tell, yet surely there is something touching in the fact of this great architect presenting himself to his old master, Bishop Edingdon, and praying for the laying on of hands. In December, 1361, he was therefore made an acolyte, in the following March sub-deacon, and in the June of the same year he was consecrated priest. And now a new field of work and honour lay before the king's favourite, who was yet so little elated that he could himself re-echo St. Paul's words, " If I pleased men, I should not be the 3o A MASTER BUILDER servant of Christ." Edward III. appointed him Keeper of the Privy Seal, secretary to the King, then chief of the Privy Council, and proceeded to heap benefices upon him, many of which he retained till he was offered a mitre. A few more years and Edingdon was laid to rest in his Cathe- dral, where the bishop's figure in his chantry (to the eastward of that of his former secretary) bears marks of the rough usage it received, probably from Parliamentary soldiers in the seventeenth century. Then came the question — who was to succeed him ? This was not so easily settled in those days as it is now, when the Prime Minister may consult his Sovereign, but never consults the Cathedral Chapter, nor seeks the approbation of the Pope ! Then, Kings, monks, and Pope had all to agree, at least if high words were to be avoided, or, as was sometimes the case, rough deeds as well. King Edward desired that his favourite Wykeham should succeed, and for once the monks of St. Swithun's were of the same mind, and had no wish to suggest any other than he who both as boy and man was well known to the town. The Pope, however, whilst not objecting personally to Wykeham, was un- willing to ratify the election, because though (by the Statute of Provisors passed in 1352) he could appoint to no ecclesiastical office below that of a bishop, yet as to this he still had a voice. The right he wished to maintain ; nevertheless it was not safe to offend Edward III., or the powerful priest of whom Froissart writes in these words : " Or en ce teps regnait un Pretre : qu'6 apeloit messire Guillaume de Wican ; Iceluy Messire Guil- laume de Wican etait si bien en la grace du Roy d'Angleterre que par luy estait tout fait ne sanz luy on ne faisait rien." At A MASTER BUILDER 31 last, the Duke de Bourbon, who was a hostage for the King of France, was told that if he could obtain Wykeham's nomination from the Pope he should be set free. With this reward in view the Duke hastened to Avignon where the Papal Court still sat, and by fair words, doubtless made fairer by a bribe, he obtained the boon. In the year 1367 the new bishop was consecrated at St. Paul's to the See of Winchester, and remembering to what he owed his good fortune, he still kept for his coat of arms — quartered with those of the episcopate — the two chevronels, or carpenters' couples, between two roses, and adopted the motto, " Manners maketh man," dear to every Wykehamist since his time. Already before his enthronement the priest had reached the highest office in the State, having been made Chancellor of England; this office he held for four years, and if it must have kept him much occupied away from his See, he was yet not unmindful of the wants of his flock. On his presentation to the bishopric, he said humbly to the King, " Sire, I am unworthy, but wherein I am wanting myself, that will I supply by a brood of more scholars than all the prelates of England ever showed ; " and this idea he soon put into execution, though the entire scheme was many years in being carried out. There was a great stir in the old city of Winchester when the day of Wykeham's enthronement arrived. It was the 9th of July, 1 368, and the town must have been looking especially beautiful in its bower of trees ; an outrider had announced the bishop before he entered the city, probably by the north gate, and either there or at the entrance of the close he was met by the Arch- 32 A MASTER BUILDER deacon of Northampton, Willam Askeby by name, who was com- missioned by Cardinal Peter Roger, Archdeacon of Canterbury, to enthrone him ; having saluted, the new bishop alighted from his palfrey, which, according to the custom at that time, was with all its trappings taken possession of by the servant of the Archdeacon of Canterbury. The bishop now made his way towards the Cathedral ; before entering, however, he had to change his riding apparel, and his coat, gloves, hat, and boots fell to the share of the aforesaid Cardinal, who had also a large allowance of wine and wax-candles, wax being a most precious article in those days. This robing most likely took place at the Church of St. Laurence close by, from whence the procession, forming under the direction of Hugo de Basyng, Prior of St. Swithun's, would pass through the churchyard to the west door, where it would be joined by the heads of the other monasteries in and near Win- chester — Thomas de Pechy, Abbot of Hyde, holding highest rank amongst them. Next would follow long lines of monks clad in their robes of brown, black, white, or grey, according to their order, and then many a layman, who had ridden in from the country round to do honour to both Church and State on this occasion. The great procession, gorgeous with embroidered cope and many a richvestment.with episcopal staff and crozier both of prior and abbot carried aloft, must have formed an imposing spectacle as it filed up the long nave of the cathedral, thronged, doubtless, to overflowing by many citizens — for unusual interest would be evinced by Win- chester in this enthronement of one long known to them, now Chancellor of England and certainly, next to the King and Arch- bishop, the greatest man in the country. A MASTER BUILDER 33 After the ceremony there was a feast in the priory hall : the bishop's table was at the upper end, and the archdeacon with the invited guests (most likely Wykeham's parents among them) had a table spread for them on the right. The new bishop drank to the archdeacon in a cup of silver, which was then put aside as a perquisite for the absent dignitary. Certainly he was amply recompensed for the part in the labours of the day which he did not perform ! The feast on such occasions, if we may judge by a bill of fare at a similar banquet, included delicacies not often seen in these times, such as buzzards, doves, and goats ! Now that Wykeham was Bishop of Winchester, he thought it prudent to obtain from the King an assurance that in all his many and various posts he had done his duty, and the King immediately gave him " full acquittance." Most likely this fore- thought saved the statesman from greater disgrace than that which afterwards befell him. At present, royal favour still shone on Wykeham, and lands and benefices were heaped upon him ; in 1366 we know that he held, at least, twenty ecclesiastical offices, and the custom of the time must be pleaded as the only excuse for the undoubted fact of Wykeham's having been such a great pluralist ! His advice was taken in the wars that followed against France and Scotland ; but after four years of office, the anti-clerical spirit of the day prompted a petition from the Commons that the chief State offices might be given to able lay- men, and not to ecclesiastics, whom it was, they said, " difficult to bring to account." Upon this, Wykeham, with great good sense, tendered his resignation, and by his presence at the inauguration 34 A MASTER BUILDER of his successor, Sir Robert Thorpe, showed that he was not offended at the tone which the Commons had taken. The bishop had now time to devote to his diocese, and dis- missing his commissary-general he turned his whole attention to it. His various palaces and manor-houses had to be repaired, money had to be expended on the Cathedral (though not yet was Edingdon's work in the nave to be continued), and the prede- cessors of the Winchester scholars had to be settled in the little house on St. Giles' Hill. If we walk down Winchester High Street, and over the bridge before which once stood the east gate, into that part of the town formerly known as the " Soke," we shall come into the parish of St. John, and in a somewhat steep and winding street, where centuries ago Roman conquerors had their burial-grounds, we shall find one of the most interesting churches of the town. It was on the hill in St. John's parish that Wykeham lodged certain poor scholars, and on every Sunday and festival, if not also daily, they attended service at the same St. John's Church, until such time as he could give them fitting buildings and a chapel of their own. Besides all this, there was need of the bishop's searching eye and wise judgment as visitor of the many religious houses with which his episcopal city abounded. Alas ! the Church had much need of reform ; the extortions of Rome raised everywhere a feel- ing of bitterness ; the mendicant friars, though once a blessing to the land, had become its curse ; whilst they and the monks were many of them ignorant and vicious. The ballad poetry of the time is full of invectives against the friars, and if half of what they are X o OS O X u X o A MASTER BUILDER 37 accused was true, they must have been a very plague spot on the face of the land. Jack Upland exclaims : " Frier, what charity is this, To the people to lie, And say that ye follow Christ in povertie More than other men done ? And yet in curious and costly housing, And fine and precious clothing, And delicious and likely feeding, And in treasure and jewels, And rich ornaments, Freers passen lords And other rich worldly men." No wonder that the voice of the people was beginning to make itself heard against them, that Wicliff, who by " Friar Daw Topias " is called that wickede worme, was trying to urge a holier life, a life where none need interfere between the soul and God, and that Geoffrey Chaucer and others were soon with their eagerly read poems to assist a much needed reformation. The reform movement was, however, mixed — we find it so in most cases — with political aspirations towards greater liberty. Many peasant labourers, serfs, or villeins, as they were called, were struggling to gain their freedom, by manumission, by payment, or by flight, from bondage to the land on which and to which they had been born. The Black Death had disorganised labour still more, and caused a class of " landless men " to wander over the country in search of work. Then was passed the Statute of Labourers — a law which to us in this independent age seems even more amazing than unjust. A fierce spirit of resistance c 38 A MASTER BUILDER was now aroused, and through town and country it spread — forerunner of all chartist and socialist movements yet to come — setting workman against master, low born against high, poor against rich, lollard against priest. There is no doubt that Wykeham must have seen all this plainly enough, and with many of the social grievances and many of Wicliff' s criticisms he must have sympathised, for though on the one hand we find him condemning the reformer's doctrine at Black Friars, yet on the other he pleads boldly on behalf of some friend of Wicliff' s who was likely to get hard usage from the archbishop. It was evidently also from a feeling of dis- satisfaction with the priests and religious orders of his day that he wished to found a college for the purpose of rearing up men not professing ignorance as did the friars, not given up to seclusion as were some of the monks, or merely luxurious land- owners as were others, but learned and pure-minded youths who should take a noble view of the clerical profession. From this arose the colleges of Winchester and Oxford ; Winchester, though founded last, being intended as the stepping-stone to Oxford. But before the master builder began his work, he was to experience disgrace and loss of kingly favour. The Black Prince, whom Wykeham had loved and been loved by, was dying from a wasting illness contracted in Spain, his father King Edward was also failing both in body and mind, and his ambitious brother, John of Gaunt, secretly wishing for the crown, took the lead in public affairs, and helped his father's mistress, the notorious Alice Perrers, to tyrannise over the old king in his dotage. A MASTER BUILDER 39 In August of the year 1376 Parliament met, and the Black Prince was carried into Westminster Palace to give his coun- tenance to the reforms now to be attempted. Wykeham was there also, and they both joined in the attack on the king's officials for having mismanaged the revenue, and for having allowed Alice Perrers to obtain such great influence over the Sovereign. The "good" Parliament triumphed, and a council of reform was appointed, Wykeham being on it, but immediately afterwards the Black Prince died, and John of Gaunt, who cared for nothing but power, was now able to avenge himself upon the council, and especially upon Wykeham. Eight articles were brought forward against the ex-chancellor, chiefly on the ground of his having misappropriated moneys ; only in a matter of 40/. (and that a perfectly open arrangement on his part) was any excuse found for convicting him, but by the judgment given all the temporalities of the See of Winchester were seized, and Wykeham was forbidden to come within twenty miles of the court. The good bishop now retired to Waverley Abbey, the picturesque ruins of which can still be seen near Farnham, over- looked by heath-clad hills and woods of fir and oak. Here in monastic seclusion Wykeham must have meditated much on the fickleness of fortune and on his educational schemes which now seemed indefinitely postponed, yet for him there was no bitter cr y — as for Wolsey in after years — that his service to his king had come before that due to his God. The King's jubilee came, and pardon was held out to all offenders, but special exception was made to " Sire William de Wykeham." The Church, however, was not going to allow her 40 A MASTER BUILDER most respected bishop to suffer unjustly, and when at the next meeting of Convocation the King asked the clergy for money, Courtenay, Bishop of London, stood up and declared that unless Wykeham were restored to favour, they would give none. No answer came to this, and consequently no money from the clergy ; but before a month had passed the pressing need of funds made the King send off a messenger to Waverley to beg the bishop to return to his house at Southwark. Very soon after this the dignified figure of Wykeham entered the Chapter House of St. Paul's, and amid the welcome of his friends he joined in the vote for a subsidy. This did not mean a return of the temporalities however, as they had been settled on the little heir-apparent, Richard, whom the nation looked to as their future king. But the populace now took up Wykeham's cause. John of Gaunt's life was threatened, and he received this peremptory message, " Tell my lord the duke that we will have the Bishop of Winton and Sir Peter de la Mare judged before their peers according to the laws of England." This settled matters, and on June 18, 1377, in the presence of the boy Richard, his uncle, and the King's Council, Wykeham promised to fit out three galleys for sea, in return for which his temporalities were given back to him. Two days later Edward III. died at Shene, forsaken by his unworthy mistress and his servants, having estranged from him the one man who had served him faithfully for so long. Le roy est mort, vive le roy ! But there was little time for mourning, and a month later the bishop was attending the new King's coronation, where trumpeters, men-at-arms, heralds with A MASTER BUILDER 41 embroidered coats, abbots and bishops in full canonicals, assembled at Westminster to do honour to Edward's grandson. Wykeham, now again one of the greatest at court, had learnt too much of life's uncertainties to be elated by his present position, though he was doubtless glad when, a few days later, his fines were remitted and he was declared innocent of every charge that had been laid at his door. It must have been a relief to the bishop to turn from the increasing troubles of Richard's reign, which even he could not counteract, to the realisation of the wish of his life. By the foundation of " St. Marie's College of Winchester at Oxenford," as was its full title, soon to become in common parlance " New College," he had provided a place where his scholars should finish their education ; and now he could carry out his scheme for Winchester, a scheme that was in reality the foundation of the public school system of which England is justly proud. Hitherto schools had been under, or in connection with, some monastery, and probably these had been only day-schools ; now they were to be foundations of their own, with priests indeed as masters, but secular priests, not monks. The bishop, with no small trouble, sought for suitable ground for his buildings in Winchester. At last he either bought or had granted to him the present site, with a road on the northern side, a stream guarding it on the east, and a wall on the west and south. On the 26th March, 1387, he laid the first stone of the chapel, and for six years the citizens could watch the busy work- men raising chapel, hall, and chambers in the massive style and beautiful proportion which exist to our own day. But during that 42 A MASTER BUILDER time many political events called the bishop's attention elsewhere. In 1389 Richard took the reins of government, and after much persuasion prevailed upon Wykeham once more to accept the chancellorship, and to his advice is due the comparative quiet of the next seven years, though he only actually retained office for two. And now the great day arrived when Wykeham's work was sufficiently completed to allow of the first " seventy faithful boys " to be received within its walls. On March 28th, 1393, all the good folk of Winchester, both lay and clerical, assembled to witness the opening of the college and to see the little band of scholars, headed by their master, come down from St. Giles' Hill, chanting psalms as they entered into possession of their promised land. Since that time both dress and fashion have changed more than the stone walls, but standing in the almost unaltered quad- rangle we can picture to ourselves the fourteenth-century crowd who, partly from curiosity, partly from admiration of their bishop's work, would be pressing forward on that spring day to share in the proceedings — the poor in their rough untanned shoes, leathern breeches (galligaskins as they were called), and their smockfrocks of russet or undyed wool ; the richer citizens, though clad much in the same fashion, affected finer material, whilst those in longer dresses looked much like the Blue-coat scholars of our own day. Somewhat apart from the villeins and trades- people stood the knights and nobles, decked in silk and velvet, their cotte hardie or tight- fitting vests (from the sleeves of which hung long strips of cloth) partly hidden by a bright coloured mantle fastened jauntily at the shoulder. A few had hats with vte, COLLEGE GATE 43 A MASTER BUILDER 45 feathers in them, that fashion having just come in ; others wore small hoods tied under the chin and ornamented with jewels or gold. Below their parti-coloured hose their very conspicuous long shoes were noticeable, some with toes like the claws of a bird, bending upward and looped with chains of gold or silver to the knees, sadly impeding the movement of their owners. The ballad poetry of the day did not spare these extravagant nobles, and laughed at the way they enlarged their shoulders artificially and made themselves look broader " than God made them," and at their wide collars which caused their necks to appear as if prepared for the axe ! Probably during the prayers offered up at the opening of the college, there were some who, when others knelt, were forced to " stand on their heels not able to bend their legs " for the tightness of their hose. It was the knowledge of these follies in dress which made Wykeham lay down such strict rules for his boys, and especially mention that they were to have no peaked shoes or knotted hoods ; their education, both spiritual and intellectual, was to fit them to teach God's word to others, and in no way to render them luxurious, like — " Ye prowd galonttes hertless With your liyghe cappes ivitlesse And youre schort gownys thriftlesse Have brought this londe in gret hevynesse. " With youre longe peked shone, Therefor youre thrifte is almost don, And with youre long here into your eyen Has brought this londe to gret pyne." We must now turn to the building inside which the crowd was gathered. 4 6 A MASTER BUILDER Through the archway we enter the first or outer court of the college ; here the brew-house is just the same, but on the left, where formerly there was an open space, is the warden's house, having absorbed into itself the old bakehouse, slaughterhouse and butcher's room, which all bordered the stream — for such an establishment could not then be dependent on outside assistance for obtaining the necessaries of life. Over the second archway stand on either side three figures : the Virgin Mother in the centre, COLLEGE TOWER with Gabriel the angel of the Annunciation on her right, and Wykeham kneeling on her left. Here used to be rooms appropri- ated to the warden, who could thence obtain a good view of all who came in and out. To the right were the chambers for the masters (there being originally only two), which have since been heightened, and form the second master's house : the scholars, the chaplains, and the choristers lived within the inner quadrangle, the northern side of which is formed by the chapel and the refectory. Of the original character of the chapel, except as to proportion, A MASTER BUILDER 47 and the beautiful fan-groining of its roof, we can hardly judge, defaced as it was in the 17 th century, and restored as it has been in the 19th with a new reredos, and destitute of that warmth of colour which once probably relieved the blank whiteness of its walls. The refectory has been almost untouched, except for the addition of panelling ; the roof enriched with carved woodwork, the coloured heads of kings and bishops, and the great stone mullioned windows all show how strength and beauty were combined by the master builder. Over the buttery, reached by a winding stone staircase, we come to the audit-room hung with ancient tapestry, where formerly the rents were paid, and where in a corner stands a huge chest, shown as Wykeham's money-box ! The original schoolroom at the basement (now a reading-room) is somewhat dark according to our modern ideas, but those were not days when personal comfort was much considered. The chantry, the beautiful cloisters around it, and the chapel tower were all built after Wykeham's death. He only provided a wooden bell- tower, which stood separate from the chapel, so that the vibration of the bells should not injure the main building. It was several years before the whole scheme both as to its building and its organisation was complete, and pending this the bishop was not idle, for he made a special visitation of St. Swithun's Monastery, where the monks, now reduced from sixty to forty-six, complained of their scanty provisions, caused by their priors having of late appropriated the funds. Then in 1393 he turned his attention to the Cathedral, where Edingdon's west end must have looked very incongruous with the rest, and threescore years and ten though he was, the old 48 A MASTER BUILDER architect determined at once to use all his engineering skill in changing the flat-roofed Norman nave into what we now possess. The prior seems to have been of one mind with the bishop about the work, for he gladly promised to help with materials from the convent property. Perfect as was the transformation from the one style into another, there is yet stonework remaining which tells plainly of the change, for near the choir-screen are two short massive pillars unaltered from Norman time. In Wykeham's day these pillars were hidden by a wide vestibule extending from north to south at the entrance of the choir, over which probably stood the cross of Stigand, the Saxon archbishop, and paintings of Bible scenes. Outside the Cathe- dral the contrast is great between the plain bare wall of the south side and the buttresses and pinnacles of the north — but here too we must remember that along the former ran the cloister, the absolute destruction of which Wykeham could never have imagined possible. During the early part of this time the country was much agitated by the troubles which beset Richard, who could no longer hold his own against his powerful cousin, Henry of Bolingbroke. Wykeham was present, when, before the as- sembled Parliament, the deposed King read his own resignation, which was greeted by shouts of joy ; and six days later the Bishop of Winchester took part in the ceremony when Henry IV. was proclaimed Sovereign. Wykeham's name, how- ever, does not appear amongst those who sentenced Richard to perpetual imprisonment, for though he could not but acknow- ledge the bad use which the last king had made of his power, o E w <: k w « o A MASTER BUILDER 51 yet was he not the son of his former friend, and grandson of his early patron and benefactor ? What lay in his power the kind-hearted bishop did, for he sheltered in Waverley Abbey Richard's confessor, who, ruined and driven away from court, had no other refuge. Wykeham's attendance at the coronation banquet was the last act of his political career, except the celebration of the King's marriage with Joan of Navarre in the nearly completed Cathedral where the aged bishop may have pointed out his own beautiful chantry, feeling that before long he would there be laid to rest. And the end soon came, for the next sight which the people of Winchester witnessed was the funeral of their great master builder. It was in his palace at Bishop's Waltham, where of late years he had chiefly lived, that he lay down to die. Though his body was weak, yet his mind was clear; until four days before his death he received his stewards and his clergy ; and he made and signed his will, leaving out of those riches " which the mercy of the Saviour had bestowed upon him" innumerable gifts and legacies to all manner of persons. His debts were to be discharged in full, "without let or hindrance, controversy or delay." He must even have pictured the crowds of poor who would flock to his funeral, for every one seeking a bounty that day was to have four pence " for the love of God and his soul's health." Especially he provided money for the completion of the Cathedral, giving to it also many rich vestments and other precious things, amongst them a golden cross, within which was encased a piece of the " Tree of the Lord." Even the king 52 A MASTER BUILDER was not forgotten, and Henry IV. was forgiven a debt of 500/. and was to receive a pair of silver-gilt basins engraved with double roses — a present which Wykeham had possibly received from Edward III. when his favourite was building and repairing his castles and palaces. But to return to the upper chamber where the bishop lay. At eight o'clock in the morning of Sept. 27th, a change passed over the noble features ; very quietly the eyes closed, having given their last look upon the crucifix held up by a chaplain ; the hand, once so skilful, relaxed, but there was a smile on the lips which, as far as was possible to man, had known no guile. Then very gently the great soul departed from the earthly temple, and all the bells in the city tolled, for the master builder's spirit had gone to a mansion prepared for him by Divine Hands. The funeral procession along the ten miles from Bishop's Waltham to Winchester moved through crowds of people sorrowing as for the loss of a father, and at his own episcopal town all the citizens thronged towards the Cathedral, where the prior was waiting at the entrance to receive the procession into the building. Here the prelate was laid in the beautiful chantry which he had made ready for himself. The inscription on the tomb tells us of his works, but Wykeham will want no epitaph as long as his " two fair colleges " stand, and as long as the Cathedral which owes so much to him still towers above the watered valley of the Itchen. S o H S < K W o o THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY ll The world exists for the education of each man. There is no age or state of society or mode of action in history, to which there is not somewhat corresponding in his life." R. W. Emerson. OWHERE in England do the stones speak more eloquently of past times than in Winchester, the city of kings and of priests, the city where religion ^ flourished and ecclesiastics fought with greater warmth than in any other of England's fair cities. Philistines there have been in the shape of Puritan soldiers who destroyed carving and effigies ; way wardens who mended the roads with stones taken from the massive city gates ; modern builders whj run up cheap red brick tenements on the site of seventeenth- century houses or of time honoured city walls, and all these have between them left England's first capital with but a small proportion of its ancient glory. And yet though the bishop's castle and the King's castle no longer tower over the surrounding houses, though the many convents and churches remain only in traditional sites — even with what is left we can, helped by history and imagination, build up the past again, still hear the discord between King and 56 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIJEVAL CITY bishop, bishop and prior. If some of these quarrels, so earnestly undertaken, now look puerile to modern ideas, and the rivalries of Franciscans and Dominicans call up a smile on our lips as we read in what petty ways those champions of religion degraded their Christianity, may we not ask ourselves whether the ecclesiastical disputes which now embitter men's minds will seem to our posterity five centuries hence of any more vital im- portance ? If we confine ourselves to the reign of that King whose young forehead was so early circled by the crown, and who only laid it down after long years of sorrow and conflict, brought about chiefly by himself and his advisers, we shall have a good picture of the feuds and feasts of a city in the Middle Ages. For at Winchester Henry III. was born, and that city was doubtless his most peaceful home when, after the death of the good Earl of Pembroke, the guardianship of His little Majesty fell to the powerful and strife-loving Bishop of Winchester, Peter des Roches, who did not object to the boy-king enjoying himself, playing at quintain perhaps, or riding out along the Itchen valley, if he — the bishop — were left to his own devices and allowed to interfere as much as he liked in the affairs of the long-suffering realm. We need only give a glance at the city in the thirteenth century to see how many, and how suggestive of discord, were the rival interests gathered together within and hard by its enclosing walls. First, there were the townsfolk, keen about their trade and their charters, on which, to a great extent, their trade de- pended, anxious to walk circumspectly and avoid offending His Majesty who was so often in their midst, or the King's THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 57 powerful lords who came in his retinue, and who, while lodging in the castle or town, had to be propitiated with humble demeanour and with presents. Then there were the various Benedictine monasteries : the old Minster of St. Swithun, where the prior held sway over a black- robed company of some sixty monks ; just outside the town was a rival body, priding themselves, and apparently with justice, on their superior learning and intellectual attainments — the new Abbey, of Alfred's foundation and Henry I.'s translation, to the importance of which the Liber de Hyda testifies ; and in the town there was the Convent of St. Mary, with its large grounds ad- joining the High Street. The bishop, too, had his home — one of his homes at least — here in the lordly castle of Wolvesey, now only a picturesque ruin, but then a large and important stronghold, where the King, when he did not care to go to his own castle at the top of the town, would often accept right royal entertainment as a visible proof of his goodwill towards his spiritual father, and where from within the massive walls, abbot, prior, mayor, or turbulent baron could safely be defied. Besides these elements — lay and ecclesi- astical — there were of course the priests, secular and regular, who served the many churches and chapels in the city, and attended to or neglected the spiritual wants of the parishioners. And in this reign we have to take into account an altogether new body of men, who came with such humility and goodness that it would have been impossible to foretell how in after years the whole fury of the people and of the religious houses was to be turned against these followers of St. Francis of Assisi and of 58 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY St. Dominic. With neither wordly goods nor retinue they arrived, these wandering friars, but intent only on preaching the Gospel to the poor they lifted up an earnest soul-stirring cry of " Repent ye," which put to shame the over-fed monks and easy-going parish priests. It was not until the Pope began to use these great bodies of Franciscans and Dominicans for his own ends, that we find them lifted up with pride and becoming worse than those whom they came to awaken and reprove, thus showing how good things may corrupt themselves, and turn their sweets to bitter. We may thus realise what were some of the varied interests which existed during the 13th century in one place of no great size, and these we must bear in mind if we would understand the stirring events enacted there during the reign of Henry III. This old city, known well to Roman, Saxon, and Dane, nestling in the valley of the Itchen, had its principal street in the same position then as now, and most of the others were either parallel or at right angles to it. The king's castle overlooked the town, the Cathedral, and the adjoining priory, and enclosing all rose the grey battlemented walls, with their five massive gates and the smaller postern by the river — the west gate hard by the castle, the King's gate near St. Swithun's monastery, the north and south gates on the road which leads from London to Southampton, and the east gate at the end of the long High Street, at the foot of St. Giles' Hill, where the great yearly fair was held. This, then, was the outward state of things which Henry, when he came of age and took the reins of government into his own THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIJEVAL CITY 59 hands, found in the old town where he passed so many a Christmas festival. After his second coronation — with the crown of St. Edward now, for a little circlet of gold had served for the child's head — there was a writ sent out to prepare rooms for him in Winchester Castle. Two years later he was here again for Christmas, when, as Roger of Wendover tells us, " Peter, Bishop of that place, provided the necessary entertainment for him." Des Roches was bent on making the young king favour the foreigners of whom he was the centre, as against Hubert de Burgh and the national party, and Henry, naturally weak, was guided sometimes by the former, sometimes by wiser advice. Finding that the latter was now the case — De Burgh being in the ascendant — the bishop went off to a Crusade, leaving Henry to get on without him for a while ; but the Holy War, owing to the defection of the Emperor Frederick II., came to an abrupt conclusion, and Winchester turned out with processions of wel- come to receive her bishop back to more peaceful pursuits again. The mediaeval mind loved these processions, and nowhere could one longer or more interesting be seen than that which followed behind abbot and prior with the shrine of St. Swithun carried alofc. The citizens on these occasions came out in their best garments, somewhat more picturesque than the frock coat and tall hat of the present day, in tunics, many with the edges all indented or " slyttered," as Chaucer called it later on, with sleeves tight to the wrist, tight breeches, long and pointed shoes, quaint caps and coifs of various shapes, for dress was much thought of during the reign of the pleasure-loving Henry, making worthy Matthew Paris fling several disparaging remarks at its foppery n 6o THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY and extravagance. Indeed, the bishop does not seem to have been above paying attention to this mundane subject, for when Henry came here again for Christmas the former himself gave his servants their " festive dresses," that there might be no fear of their appearing shabbily attired before His Majesty. The same year, 1232, was a memorable one for Winchester, not only ecclesiastically on account of the settlement of the friars here, and a visitation of all the religious houses by order of Pope THE GREAT HALL Gregory IX., but also because of extensive preparations made for the re-building of the Great Hall of the Castle. Probably the latter is the only domestic building of that date now extant, and certainly it is the only part of the castle above ground which remains to give an idea of what the whole pile must have been. That the King concerned himself, both with questions of struc- ture and ornamentation, plainly appears from the many interesting details relating to alterations and repairs in the castle. A good THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIMVAL CITY 61 deal of architectural work was now going on in England, and Henry evidently encouraged it, as is proved by this great hall. Master Elias Dereham was its architect, and he must have been satisfied with his work, when, after some years' labour, the massive oak roof was put on, the windows glazed, and painting and whitewash added. The plans of Master Elias for the castle were not always approved of by the king, at any rate he does not seem to have been allowed a monopoly, for the Sheriff of Southampton is ordered to have windows made in the king's painted chamber, because it was too dark, and the wains- cot was to be painted green. Another time the sheriff is told to place a rood-loft in the chapel of the castle, which was dedicated to St. Thomas the Martyr {i.e., to Thomas-a-Becket), whose bones had been carried to Canterbury with great pomp just after the King's coronation. The screen was to " touch both walls of the seat of us and our Queen," and images of " Mary, John, and two angels " were to be added. There was an order also about Purbeck stone for the works at the castle, which stone is to be conveyed and kept safely till the King has further commands on the subject. But before Henry was married to Eleanor of Provence, and could send orders for her comfort and her religious needs in the castle, much trouble was to be experienced in the kingdom. Peter des Roches, who headed the papal and anti-nationalist party, after ten years of constant opposition, brought about the fall of the patriotic Hubert de Burgh ; he was disgraced, and deprived of his various offices, these being immediately filled by friends and relations of the bishop, while the king dismissed all his former 62 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY counsellors, replacing them by the hated foreigners. Naturally this conduct was most unpopular, civil war broke out, and Henry, not gaining much advantage, was forced to retreat to Winchester in company with the bishop. Here the latter was not idle ; having the King at hand, he could obtain the sanction of the royal seal to anything he wished, and it was by this means that he procured the CRYPT OF CATHEDRAL assassination of Richard Marshall, a friend and supporter of De Burgh. This murder, and the strong words of reproof used by the archbishop, now roused the weak monarch ; he suddenly changed his policy, turned against Peter des Roches and all his foreign advisers, and summoned them to give an account of their evil deeds, and the use they had made of his seal. The crafty bishop, who cared little for his cathedral town, now THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY 63 fled there for refuge, hiding himself with his son in some part of the Cathedral itself, as he had not the courage to appear before the King. This son, Peter de Rivaux, at last did so, and after a most un- friendly reception, and a short sojourn in the Tower, he was sent back to keep the bishop company. For some reason, his presence amongst the Winchester people seems to have much displeased them, and caused a regular tumult, during which both Wolvesey Palace and the Priory were seized by the insurgents. Upon this, the bishop used the only weapon left to him — his power of excommunication ; he cut off all his opponents from the minis- trations of the church, and laid both city and Cathedral under an interdict. Why the latter — his own harbour of refuge — should have been thus treated, seems strange ; but perhaps the prior just then was inclined to favour the King. However, Des Roches, finding things too hot for him at present, left the country for a two years' sojourn in Rome. The citizens of Winchester probably possessed decided views in this national dispute, having personal knowledge of both king and bishop ; but doubtless they were glad to turn their thoughts to the more festive subject of the royal wedding, and were all proud of the right, which they alone could claim and exercise, of superintending the cooking of the marriage feast at Westminster. The Provencal bride, was, alas ! to bring in another set of foreigners and fresh difficulties for England, but no forebodings for the future interfered with the magnificence of the festivities, or with the adornment of London, where, as it is specially stated, " all the roads were cleansed from mud, dirt, sticks, and everything offen- sive." Matthew Paris tells, in profuse words, all about the 64 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY wonderful event, ending with, " Why describe the abundance of meats and dishes on the table, the quality of venison, the variety of fish, the joyous sound of gleemen, and the gaiety of waiters ? " In June, 1236, the King came to Winchester, and met his Lords in a great council. Peter de Rivaux was here, and not now as a prisoner ; indeed, Henry seemed already turning round again, for he tried to take away some grants he had made to the Church, using the Pope's name to help him. The truth was, that the new wife was an expensive addition, and how to get money was a difficult problem. His many houses and castles were a drain upon the King's resources, his favourites had always been able to get what they liked out of him, and yet the country could ill afford him gifts. In spite, however, of the scarcity of money, the Queen must have in Winchester Castle, without delay, an aisle from her chamber to the chapel ; used, doubtless, as she was to a warmer climate, she did not care to step out of doors for her daily attendance at Mass. The glass also in the windows of the hall must be repaired by the Sheriff of Southampton, for it was December, and glass, though probably as yet only in movable frames, had become a necessity for kings, as a protection against the outer air, which hitherto had had free access, except when the heavy wooden shutters were closed at night. Moreover, Her Majesty apparently liked pretty colours, for the dais is to be painted green with gold stars on it, and " histories " of the Old and New Testament in circles. The frequent mention of chimneys in the orders to the poor Sheriff of Southampton, shows plainly that architects did not THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY 65 always then, any more than they do at present, fathom the per- versity of smoke, and that the Queen objected to being stifled, for especial care is to be taken to repair her chimney. Now that the King is married, there is more attention paid to the outside beauty of religion ; he writes — still to the sheriff — to " make also a small Mary with a great tabernacle for the chapel of our afore- said Queen, and a certain painted tablet to be placed before the altar of the same chapel." It is to be hoped that the sheriff had artistic tastes, or otherwise " the small Mary " must have been but a poor image. Perhaps, however, the sheriff's taste was deficient, for the next " images " had to be provided by " the keepers of the Bishoprick of Winchester," who had to make, among other things, " a certain house of deal, running upon six wheels, and covered with lead." Then the Queen's chapel had to be wainscoted, and the passage to the chapel of St. Thomas ; moreover a " herbary " was to be made, and a wall here and there, and four more images to be bought for the porch of the Hall. For the Hall itself, a map of the world was to be painted, somewhat similar, perhaps, to the one at Hereford, and it is rather curious that, among the Cotton MSS., there exists a cosmographical "scheme," purporting to be after the design of the before-named architect of this very Hall : " secundum magistrum Elya de Derham." When the present ornament of the Hall, the so-called " round table of Arthur," was made, it is impossible to say ; perhaps in the following reign, to commemorate Edward's creation of so many knights, perhaps not till much later, for there seems to be no authentic mention of it before the sixteenth century, when, however, it was old enough to 66 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY need considerable repair. More glass too, was needed for the Hall windows, and a cellar under the Queen's chamber, perhaps to keep out the damp, for the great ditch, often full of water, ran close by, and many a time, doubtless, must Eleanor have sighed for the drier air and bluer skies of her sunny Provencal home. The next time the King sends an order, it is for " a drawbridge with a bretache over it ; " then another of the castle chapels — that of St. Judoc (for there were four) — is to have a porch, and St. Thomas's Chapel a bell ; then more orders concerning wainscoting and chimneys, this time in the King's chamber, and two furnaces are to be placed in the kitchen. But though Henry may have had a turn for improving castles, he certainly had none for ruling men, and Winchester endured many evil days in connection with the quarrels of its Sovereign. The restless bishop had returned, and in 1237 he was once more received into favour by his King, who, to prove his affection, appointed him one of his representatives at a great meeting of all the princes of Christendom, summoned by the German Emperor. Des Roches, however, remonstrated, and indeed positively refused to go, not having forgotten all the " heavy complaints " the King had made against him, and pretending that, if he went as his representative, their previous disagreements might cause him to be doubtfully received ; but considering how often the two had quarrelled and made it up, it seems more likely that the bishop wanted to escape the journey to Vaucouleurs, for he was now an old man, and his earthly warfare was drawing to an end. He was leaving his Cathedral town and diocese in a bad way. Y& 68 THE BUTTER CROSS THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 69 Everywhere was poverty and discontent, both nobles and commons disapproving strongly of the King's conduct, of the papal tyranny, and generally of the foreign influences which were unduly exerted in this country. The famous shrine of St. Swithun behind the High Altar had been broken by the falling of a trap- door — an evil omen doubtless in the eyes of the citizens ; the town was getting more crowded with monks and friars, whilst Peter des Roches, like the Pope, patronised the new orders — probably wishing to play off one order against another. His own place was being taken by the queen's relations, for Henry was turning towards his wife's uncle, William, Bishop of Valence, and it was time for Des Roches to leave the See over which he had ruled for thirty-two years. Though he could not have been regarded at all as an ideal bishop, yet Winchester opened its Cathedral to him, and the old man was laid to rest within its peaceful walls. Perhaps it is his recumbent figure which may be seen in the retro-choir, but tradition has not handed down his resting-place with much certainty, only — according to Matthew Paris — he had, during his life, chosen for himself a humble tomb. Great trouble and confusion now befell the monastery of St. Swithun, for the monks had the right of electing the new bishop, but the King had to agree in their choice, and the Pope had to consent to it. Henry wished William of Valence, before mentioned, to have the bishopric, but the monks were weary of a foreigner, and demanded, first, Ralph de Neville, Bishop of Chichester (the chancellor of the kingdom), and then William de Ralegh. A long struggle began. Henry was determined to get his way, he had an interview with the monks, 70 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY prayed and entreated, made technical objections to their election, and " kicked against it for a long time," the only result being that no bishop at all was appointed. He then appropriated to himself the money of the See, and lived in its manors with a large retinue. At last, when by all this he had failed to obtain the election of his nominee, he came one day to Winchester, entered the Chapter House, and demanded, with threats, that William de Valence should be elected. The monks now dropped the name of the last favourite, and again declared their wish for Ralph de Neville. This turned the king's wrath still more against the unfortunate chancellor, and though he was " a man faithful and discreet, and almost the only pillar of truth among the courtiers," yet his chancellor's seal was taken from him, and, by means of " Rome-footed " lawyers, his election was declared void. Still, however, the struggle continued, and Henry bethought him of corrupting the monks, as he could not compel them to have De Valence, who was longing to get possession of the rich See. He therefore put into the monastery a new prior, one Andrew of Brittany, who turned the hearts of many, and inclined them to the foreigner ; but after all it was not to be, for De Valence suddenly died (poison of course being the supposed cause), to the great grief of the King, who not only in the Biblical fashion tore his clothes, but also threw them into the fire ! The " spurious Prior " was, however, still in office, and though some of the elder monks, who had come back from Rome with power to elect an Englishman as bishop, again mentioned De Ralegh, yet the task was by no means easy. On all sides there seemed trouble, for besides the tyranny of the THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 71 King there was the Pope's legate squeezing money from every one. Otho, or Ottoboni, had been here three years, and Henry had heaped favours upon him. During that time he had paid a visit to Winchester and demanded to see the treasure of the Cathedral (doubtless with a view of transferring some of it to Rome), and when his demand was refused he had laid the Cathedral under an interdict, thereby putting a stop to the services. This was, however, but of short duration, for happily the Pope now recalled him, and he departed receiving many kisses from the King, but regrets from no one else. Yet this did not relieve Winchester of the difficulty of their choice. The monks of St. Swithun's were still in a state of suspense, when suddenly some court " satellites " descended on the unfortunate monastery and demanded the names of those brethren who had so " saucily " desired the election of Ralegh. Prior Andrew, who was perhaps at the bottom of this disturbance, handed over some of the monks, and they, without respect of age, were imprisoned, starved, and subjected to every kind of reproach and insult. But not yet would the monks give in, and the prior determined on still more severe measures. Having sent again for more of the King's agents, he told them to seize the rebels. The monks fled to the High Altar in the Cathedral ; but the King's men cared nothing about sanctuary ; rushing up the steps, they dragged the poor monks away and out into the town, where the citizens, who dared not rescue them, were yet grieved at the sight and loudly proclaimed their indignation. But this did not, however, save the monks from being led off to the castle at " Husvetrey," and there, tied two and two together, 72 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY they were thrown into dark dungeons, where, in spite of all their hunger and cold, they never dreamt of giving in, but endured suffering for the sake of upholding justice and the privileges of their order. Henry must have nearly wearied out the patience of his " loyal subjects," still, when he came home from a visit to Gascony, he expected a grand reception. Having landed at Portsmouth, he sent word that not only all the nobles, but also four burgesses from every borough, were to meet him at Winchester, much to the annoyance of those who had to come long distances. The city was ordered to put on festive garb, the old streets, many of them picturesquely — though also inconveniently — narrow, were hung with curtains and tapestry ; autumn flowers were wreathed across, and intermingled with them were lighted tapers. The bells of the Cathedral and of all the churches were set ringing, whilst lords of high degree, burgesses from other towns dressed in their best and their horses richly caparisoned, vied with the citizens, themselves in gayest holiday attire, to show at least in outward sign tokens of welcome to their King. After this he passed on towards London, where more processions and festivities, " as pompous as they were sumptuous," were to signal his return. Winchester was not, however, for all its loyal demonstration, to be free of trouble. The election of the new bishop was to be per- sonally felt by the peaceable inhabitants, and the story of Bishop Ralegh's difficulty in getting possession of his See is most curious, as showing how strained and complicated was the whole question of Roman influence. The Pope's demands for money did not suit with the King's eagerness to fill his own coffers, and therefore Henry, THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 73 feeling the latter to be of the greatest importance, and having made up his mind that Ralegh should not be Bishop of Winchester, began a most strenuous persecution of the monks' nominee. The Pope's consent had now been obtained to the latter, and all the right formularies had been gone through, except the King's ac- ceptance of him and the kiss which was the sign of it ; but though the poor man's own See of Norwich was given away, he was not yet allowed to come to Winchester. Ralegh, however, meaning to do without the King's consent, called himself Bishop of Winchester, and acted as such ; but Henry, who could be very firm in a wrong cause, refused to give in, and prohibited any dealing with De Ralegh, even to the "supplying him with necessary victuals " — clearly a case of boycotting even in those early days. The citizens of Winchester must have been very ignorant of all the ins and outs of this ; they could, however, see for them- selves that their prior within the walls was a more powerful man than the bishop without. In 1243 Andrew died, but his suc- cessor John de Caux, another foreigner, as his name shows, was quite ready to follow in his footsteps. When messengers came from the King with orders that all the city gates were to be closed against the bishop, the prior spoke strongly to his monks, and also gave it out in the city that no one must offer any help to De Ralegh, under pain of the King's displeasure. This meant loss of money, and had to be weighed against the bishop's wrath, which was suggestive merely of spiritual loss, and the thought of the money won the day. The bishop arrived and found all the gates shut ; he came in 74 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIJEVAL CITY humble guise and barefooted, and petitioned to enter the city — probably by the King's gate — and to proceed to the Cathedral. He then went to the other gates, but in vain, all were equally barred against him ; the mayor, having the King's message in his mind, " saucily refused him admittance," adding insult to insult. Bishop Ralegh now altered his tone, and pronounced an inter- dict against the whole city, the Cathedral, and all the other churches ; as to the rebellious monks, a fearful anathema was hurled against them. One cannot help wondering whether this really interfered in any way with the life of the city, whether the bells ceased either to chime or toll, and whether all religious rites were stopped. Certainly the prior would take no notice of episcopal wrath, and the monks must have dreaded the King's prisons more than the bishop's curses ; still, the Church at large was scandalised at the fact, and three bishops set out to find the king in order to bring him to a better mind. Henry had laid hands on the manors and the moneys of the bishop ; further, he had chosen some more " Rome-footed " messengers to try and turn the Pope, and by bribes he had hoped to attach them more surely to his side. His Majesty was not anxious, therefore, to be reproved by the bishops of Lincoln, Worcester, and Hereford, he gave them the slip — " declining their salutary admonition," as Matthew Paris quaintly puts it. At last the three bishops found Henry at Westminster, but he refused to discuss the subject, and asked for time till his messengers should return, to which their lordships agreed. Ralegh, after a short stay in London, where he could not have been very comfortable, as the London citizens also were THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIMVAL CITY 77 forbidden to supply him with food, fled to France, knowing well that Henry would especially dislike any interference which the French king might be induced to make. Louis was extremely civil to the unfortunate bishop, and said : " Look you there at the King of England, idle and ignorant with regard to all the enemies of the kingdom, he persecutes and proscribes all his holy Bishops." This holy bishop now determined to bring his influence also to bear upon the Papal Court. He evidently understood that the only key to unlock difficulties was one of gold, and he found that a sum of 8000 marks stirred very much the affection of the Pope towards him. The latter wrote a letter to Henry, saying that " as we have determined in our own mind to hold you in special favour above all the other princes of the earth, you will of necessity act honourably towards " the bishop, and return to him his See and all his manors. He even wrote to the Queen, telling her that she was a relation of his, and making a Latin pun on the power of women to soften men. At last Henry gave way, after making Ralegh promise not to insist on his refunding any of the money belonging to the See, to forgive every one who had offended him, and specially to take away the ex- communication from the people of Winchester ; this condition showing that in some way it did press heavily upon them. On the strength of this, Bishop Ralegh returned from France, and was met by a goodly number of friends at Dover — though certain, we are told, whose consciences were too much disturbed with their share in his trouble, kept away — after which, coming to the king, he was received with a " smiling and pleased look." 78 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY When the bishop at last entered Winchester, there were many who, in spite of their consciences, assembled there to do him honour. Prior John de Caux and all the monks made a virtue of necessity, and humbled themselves ; the clergy, too, who had sided with them, now made atonement ; the mayor also received the bishop civilly, but one cannot help rather pitying him, for Ralegh only deposed the prior, whilst the mayor, who was less to blame, was subjected to heavier punishment. What a difficult matter it must have been to keep in those days on good terms with both secular and ecclesiastical authorities ! King Henry had not much to congratulate himself upon in the present state of his kingdom, which the contemporary chronicler describes as in a most desolate condition, as was the Church also. The nobles were hard pressed for money, and the Pope was draining the English people more and more. In 1246 a great Council took place in the new hall of Winchester Castle, and the king could, from the Solar Chamber, hear the various discussions, even when not present. The Council was angered by a message from the Pope which Master William de Poweris and Master Henry de la Mare now delivered. The Pope distinctly refused to remit his tithes, and said : " The King of England, who is now kicking against me, and following the example of Frederick, has his own plans, and I have mine, which I will follow." The English are not a people who can stand threats, and even Henry, who — pendulum like — sided with the Pope, or against him, according to the freak of the moment, then sanctioned a proclamation to be made in all market towns and villages, that THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIMVAL CITY 79 no more contributions were to go to the Pope. When this was heard, many a Winchester citizen must have smiled, knowing well that the weak King would not keep in the same mind very long. This was indeed the case, and all the fine talking in the Winchester assembly soon proved to be so much wasted breath. Soon the Pope again wanted money and a rumour got afloat of a possible interdict in case of its not being forthcoming ; then of course the king gave in — influenced by those who cared less for anathemas than for the loss of benefices and manors. To understand how distant Rome could make England tremble, we must remember that Innocent was not slow in using for his own ends the new orders before mentioned, those of the Franciscans and Dominicans — the Minorites and Preachers. He gave them power to collect money for him, to interfere in the matter of wills, and to take possession of the property of those who died intestate. No wonder that these orders of poverty attracted many, and that a certain Bishop of Carlisle "renounced the world he had so long clung to," in order to be invested with the habit of the Preachers. They could now gain the ear of those in high places, and were becoming powerful, not only by means of money gained for themselves, but by inquisitorial inquiries made into the lives of the rich as well as of the poor. Of course much of this was right on the face of it, but when we notice how easily they acquiesced in the rapacity of Rome, we are led to doubt whether their anxiety for the soul of an ungodly landowner was altogether unconnected with the seizure of his manors after he had been excommunicated. Anyhow, the court was indignant when the news came that Ralegh was, according E 80 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY to the advice of the friars, inquiring about the " morals of the noble as well as ignoble," and the King wrote at once to stop these inquisitions. Still, Henry's pleasure or displeasure was not a thing of long continuance, and at Christmas Winchester once more put on festive garb to receive its royal visitor. Bishop Ralegh went out to meet the King with a goodly retinue of picked nobles, and earnestly invited His Majesty to a banquet with him on the Christmas festival, so that every one might see that peace was established between them. Accordingly the next day the King was seen going in procession to Wolvesey Palace to break bread with the very bishop whom he had so cruelly persecuted. If Winchester rejoiced, as it most likely did, to think that it should not again be called on to side with either my Lord Bishop or my Lord King, it certainly rejoiced too soon ; but the town was at least to have a change from ecclesiastical to more secular troubles. For two years later, in 1 249, we find Henry acting quite a new role in Winchester, that of meting out justice — an occupa- tion not hitherto much affected by him. But importunity could do a great deal with this King, and as he was spending Lent in his castle, he had time to listen to two Brabant merchants who complained bitterly of having been robbed of 200 marks by some English freebooters, whom they now recognised at Henry's court, being quite willing by single combat to prove the truth of their accusa- tion. Of course there were false witnesses ready to declare on oath the innocence of the freebooters. But the merchants were not to be put off by false oaths, and Henry, still more importuned, really took the matter up, and, collecting all the responsible w u < •J < w > o g 1 ' THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 83 persons, he gave them most severe reproof with " a scowling look " in the Great Hall. The bishop was there, and of course the nobles. The King's opening speech ended with these words : " I was born in this city, and never was disgrace brought on me anywhere as here. It is probable, and I must believe — nay, it is now quite clear — that you, the citizens and inhabitants of the province, are infamous accomplices and confederates. I shall convoke all the counties of England that they may try you as traitors to me, and may detect your crimes ; nor will the arguments of cunning profit you any longer." Then he added : " Shut the gates of the castle immediately." At this up rose the bishop and suggested to the King that he was shutting in some very blameless strangers, and turning to the multitude, who had gathered together to behold these unusual proceedings, he excommunicated all who either by act or by concealment of the evil-doers belonged to this band of robbers. Twelve Winchester citizens were thereupon selected, and being removed to a private place, were bidden to deliver up the names of the transgressors ; but they refused — not because of any great desire to shield the guilty, but because a list of names would have included several of the King's special attendants, and Henry's justice was of new birth. Their refusal, however, only gained them a deep dungeon and condemnation to be hung ! Twelve more were then chosen, and these, taking warning by the fate of their fellows, disclosed all they knew of this system of brigandage and the names of the guilty freebooters. Among them were nobles, rich citizens, officers of the royal household, as well as some of the bailiffs and guardians of the peace, whose duty it 84 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDJMVAL CITY was to drive away robbers ! Thirty were hung, and as many more imprisoned ; but the King had to suffer for his fit of justice, as his own officers, when about to die, sent him a message to say that their past actions were owing to his having so long with- held their rightful pay from them. Henry's conscience must have pleaded guilty to this charge, for we are told he gave vent to his sorrow in protracted sighs, though he does not seem to have spared the lives of the truth-tellers. Winchester incurred an indelible stain from these events, and the King did not allow the city to forget its sins when, on Bishop Ralegh's death shortly after, all the troubles of a new election began over again. Ralegh had spent so much money at the time of his exile in his heavy douceurs to the Pope, who only, " on being richly remunerated, opened the bosom of consolation to him," that he was forced to leave his city home and retrench at Tours, and there, after nearly a year's sojourn, he died. On the whole the bishop had come out well in the various troubles of his episcopate ; but doubtless as shepherd of his large diocese he had many shortcomings to remember on his death-bed. We are told how when the Viaticum was being brought to him, seeing the priest approaching, he cried, " Wait a while, my friend, it is proper that I, who am a traitor to and disparager of my God, should be carried before Him," and the dying bishop was then carried to the Host, which he received with tears of contrition, and shortly after passed away. When the King heard of the event he gave utterances, says the chronicler quaintly, to " brief sorrow with dry tears." Henry now fixed upon his half-brother, yEthelmar de Lusignan, THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY 85 as successor to De Ralegh. He was a young man of twenty- three, only in deacon's orders, and neither in age nor knowledge fitted for a bishop. He wanted money, therefore the king, with his usual mixture of weakness and obstinacy, was bent upon forcing him at once on the unhappy brethren of St. Swithun's. Two persuasive clerks were sent down to Winchester, and for fifteen days they talked to the monks and threatened them, urging them to demand ^Ethelmar. This they reluctantly agreed to do, whereupon the king hastened to his native town, entered the Chapter House unannounced, and taking the bishop's seat, gave the astonished monks a regular sermon, choosing the somewhat inap- propriate text of " Righteousness and Peace have kissed each other.'' In this long discourse he said he was glad they had de- manded vEthelmar, and that it was indeed well for them they had done so, and while allowing that he had before done them injury in wishing to force the queen's uncle upon them, he would now, on their choosing his own brother, encircle them with the arms of heartfelt affection. They were to remember also (and this was one of Henry's old and well-worked arguments) that he was born in the city and baptised in the Cathedral, and that therefore they ought not to oppose his wishes in any way, but should complete the election at once. The monks were again in an unenviable position ; they re- membered former persecutions ; they knew that even if they appealed to Rome there was " no place of refuge open to them in the bosom of our father the Pope," and so they gave in and unanimously declared ^-Ethelmar to be their nominee, on the condition that by a papal dispensation he could be qualified to 86 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY become a bishop. Alas ! they knew well enough that with Rome, money could obtain anything, and so it was that Aylmar or Ethelmarvs (as his name stands in his Cathedral) became nominally bishop, though he was not consecrated either then or afterwards ! Henry, never an ideal Sovereign, was now going from bad to worse. He had condemned robbery at Winchester, but was not ashamed himself to rob merchants in order to send presents to the Friars Minor or Franciscans, who — more honest than their king — returned the stolen property. Everything seemed wrong. Simon de Montfort was being accused falsely for serving his king too well in Gascony, and ^Ethelmar, about whose appointment the king had taken so much trouble, almost immediately turned against him. As usual, Henry was hard up for money, so much so that in his Christmas feast at Winchester in 125 1, both the richness and hospitality of the royal table were visibly diminished, and no festive dresses were given to his retainers as had been always the custom. He often attempted to squeeze money out of the Church, and sometimes he succeeded ; but the clergy — no less than the barons and citizens — tried to resist. With short- sighted obstinacy, the king now made another attempt. He pretended that he had taken the Cross, and would go on a crusade if only his " pressing state of necessity " might be assisted. Even this plea, however, did not cause the bishops to give in, and through John, Bishop of Ely, they reminded their exacting and extravagant king that " if we prelates yielded to your unrestrained will, the Church would be impoverished and, to THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY 87 the injury of your pledge and oath, would be subject to perpetual tribute and perpetual slavery." The king next turned to yEthelmar, thinking that surely he would yield ; but curiously enough, the bishop-elect would not go against his brethren. " My Lord, I am young in years, but do you wish, because you have made me what I am, that I should act as a child ? " Yet after all he did not show much maturity of wisdom, for he directly afterwards engaged in a foolish quarrel with the Archbishop, which made great scandal in the Church. He also disagreed with the prior at Winchester and deposed him, and it was only after the latter had employed " Rome-footed " men that he was able to get himself re-instated. Henry meanwhile went on as usual, regarding no charters, having foreign favourites who trampled on the English, and for any slight offence taking his usual revenge of making the offenders pay largely, yet, now when it suited him, he forgot his poverty sufficiently to keep his Christmas again at Winchester with great magnificence. His advancing age, instead of bringing wisdom, seemed to make him more mean and grasping, and the dear town of his birth suffered equally with others. In this Christmas week (1253) the citizens collected a large present of good things for His Majesty, and sent it up to the castle. All beholders applauded the gift, and the king graciously accepted it ; but before his departure he had forgotten this, and made the city give him 200 marks, thereby turning joy into mourning for the loyal folk, who groaned under the arbitrary demands of rulers, both civil and ecclesiastical. The land cried out that its laws should not be broken, every ss THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY city trembled for its liberties ; but what was the use when Henry respected neither justice nor oath. Even the solemn assembly of bishops, with lighted tapers in their hands, was nothing to him ; he himself joined with them in throwing down the tapers, and when, as the unsavoury odour arose from the extinguished heap, the Archbishop exclaimed, " Thus then perish and stink the condemned souls of those who shall either violate or wrong- Mmm KITCHEN OF MONKS REFECTORY fully interpret the said Charter," the king more eagerly and more frequently than the others loudly responded, " Amen, Amen." And yet he cannot have been altogether satisfied with his last episcopal appointment, when the monks of St. Swithun's appealed to him against his brother ^thelmar, who was working great havoc in Winchester. His one act of opposition THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIMVAL CITY 89 to the King seems to have been the only good deed of this bishop, so that one fears it must somehow have been from interested motives ; and the monks must have felt amply punished for their former weakness in nominating him when, offended with them for some cause, he shut them up in the Cathedral for three days before Michaelmas ! A sojourn in the great cold Cathedral was no slight penance, even in those less luxurious days, and the health of some of the poor brethren was so injured by it that they never recovered, whilst those who could do so fled to other houses, until ^Ethelmar called them back again to their convent, into which he put new monks " rogues and unworthy persons." All this time the deposed prior was hoping for justice from Rome, but was unable to get it owing to the influence of /Ethel- mar's gold, and a flatterer, another Prior Andrew, of London, reigned in his place. To crown his misdeeds, the bishop knew not English or the rudiments of the arts, worst of all, " not even grammar " ; by this must be meant the Latin Delectus, in which probably some of the monks themselves were not deeply versed. Yet these seem but small offences in comparison with those of the king, who was pledging his kingdom to the Pope in order to raise money for the war which the latter had undertaken against Germany. It was always the same with Henry — this constant lack of money and the question of how to pay ever-increasing debts. The Christmas season, however, generally found him in his native city, and now it is, as in former years, the bishop who entertains him and gives him rich presents out of the episcopal funds. 9o THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY The King feebly urged that justice should be done to the monks of St. Swithun's, for even his conscience could not be altogether silenced in face of the desolation which reigned within the great priory ; but the bishop only jeered, and assured his brother of his determination to work his own will there, for Rome would always be on his side, because he could fill her insatiable mouth with gold. Yet, after all, Henry was certainly his own worst enemy. There were patriots who would have helped him to govern rightly, men whom he might have trusted, and Prince Edward earnestly demanded justice for Gascony, which country his father had given to him ; but Henry only bemoaned his own likeness to the first Plantagenet, whose children turned against him, and the prince, taking the hint, rode out in public with two hundred retainers. There was no knowing what the king might or might not do, whilst all the while Simon de Montfort was making ready to avenge his wrongs and those of the country. We cannot wonder at the groans of the chronicler. Even the elements seemed to have turned against England ; the autumn inundations destroyed the fruits of the earth, the scarcity of money caused a famine, and wheat was at 10s. a measure ; pestilence and fever were rife, and men died by hundreds. And the following year matters in no way improved. The barons under Earl Simon were forced to take up arms in order to obtain redress from a King too weak and faithless to keep promises save through fear, and at the Mad Parliament at Oxford they were firm in demanding the dismissal of the hated foreigners. Thus it came to pass that Winchester was once more to be a THE TURMOILS OF A MEDI/EVAL CITY 91 temporary refuge for the unworthy Poitevins. At that Oxford Parliament they were at last convinced that their day was over and they fled, frequently looking behind them to see if the barons were following, and did not spare their horses until they could demand entrance at the north gate of Winchester. Here ^Ethelmar's strong castle of Wolvesey was a safe refuge for a little while ; but he himself must fly, for the barons were now in full pursuit, and soon presented themselves at Winchester, some say under the leadership of Earl Simon himself. Winchester could not have had a spark of feeling left for its unworthy bishop, one of whose latest acts had been to eject a priest from a church of which he claimed the patronage, the unfortunate man, who resisted the illegal proceedings, being killed without scruple by the bishop's messengers. There must indeed have been great rejoicing when ^Ethelmar and his brothers were forced to fly, and reaching a sea-port as soon as possible, made their way to France. One cannot help smiling at the bishop-elect of Winchester humbly asking leave of Louis to remain in Paris as a scholar. Had the persecuted monks made him ashamed of his ignorance of grammar ? Again, the brethren of St. Swithun's, with their reinstated prior, now raised to the rank of an abbot by the ring, mitre, and crozier which the Pope had bestowed upon him, met to elect a bishop, for ./Ethelmar's banishment left the flock without one. The King's chancellor, Henry of Wengham, was chosen ; but, remembering the hardships endured by Ralegh, he demurred, and only accepted the office at last on the condition that he should retire if the Pope were found to be willing to consecrate 92 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY yEthelmar, and he were willing to return ! The Pope had, how- ever, chosen John of Exeter, who was able to pour 6000 marks into the treasury of the Holy Father, and thus to gain the See of Winchester and to oust Wengham. Vows could not have appeared of much consequence then, when the Pope could bind and loose so easily, and Henry now obtained release from his promises at Oxford. On hearing this, however, his son Edward was extremely angry, and at once returned from the Continent, objecting strongly to his father's unconstitutional government; and at one time (in 1258) the breach became wide enough to necessitate a public reconciliation in the Chapter House at Winchester. Edward's remonstrances seem, however, to have been of little use, and now began the great struggle with the barons, into the details of which we cannot enter except when they touch the fortunes of Winchester. King Henry taking-refuge sometimes in one castle, sometimes in another, came again (1261) to his old native city ; but shortly after a well-armed force of barons approached the gates, and the weak King, not having strength of mind (or possibly strength of men or money) to resist, took the advice of John Mansell, and fled back to the Tower of London, where his foreign favourites gathered round him. For three years war continued — open and concealed — while royal promises were repeated and broken. By that time several of the barons had left Simon, and in 1264 Louis of France was asked to decide between him and the King, and this he did almost entirely in favour of the latter. But the main body of the people were still with De Montfort, and that same year Henry's ' ^ ,*CV Aim V f * i/; '■ j i i \ 3/, ' '/I KM Mil & -'r H^/fc i-i z S o OS u. < OS Q w X < THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIAEVAL CITY 95 cause was lost, and his person and that of his son taken possession of in the battle of Lewes. For several months the earl now really ruled England, and during that time he summoned the famous Parliament, in which sat representatives from borough towns, though it is doubtful whether any member represented Winchester until eighteen years later. The city seems to have been in a very unsettled state, and the relations between the civil and ecclesiastical authorities were in what would now be called a very strained condition — the former taking the side of the King, the latter that of De Montfort. Their antagonism soon took shape in action. A number of citizens collected near the gate of the priory enclosure and stormed it, and great must have been the excitement in the motley throng attacking, and the black robed monks defending, supported by all those connected with the monastery. At last fire was resorted to, the massive door gave way with a crash, and a free fight ensued, during which some of the monastic buildings were burnt, as well as the King's gate, with the Church of St. Swithun's over it, and many people were killed. During this time dissensions had sprung up in De Montfort's party, and Edward, now at liberty, was marching westward against him. The younger Simon was summoned to his father's assistance, and on his way he is said to have come to Winchester, but to have been refused entrance by the still loyal city. The monks of St. Swithun's, who do not, however, appear to have been troubled by such scruples, treacherously admitted him, upon which he let loose his force upon the city, and sacked it horribly, especially that quarter in the north-east part of the town inhabited by Jews. 96 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY In the following month the battle of Evesham took place, when the great earl was killed, and Henry felt himself once more free to call his Parliament of Magnates at Winchester. It was now in the King's power to deal out punishments, and in this he was not sparing — "ex-heredation" being the sentence of all the followers of De Montfort ; and Bishop John, who, in company with the monks, had taken the popular side, was deposed. That the King's sentence was not meekly acquiesced in, we learn from the chronicler's statement that " the disinherited parties thereupon assembled together, and indulged in pillage and incendiarism in all directions." There was now great distress and poverty in Winchester, and it was in consequence of this that its fee-farm rent was reduced from £80 to ioo marks. But the political troubles of the king- dom were at an end, and Henry and his people went on together peaceably for the next seven years. The Papal Legate Ottoboni had come again to England, and was diligently wielding his weapon of excommunication against all the clergy who had taken the popular side ; bishops had fallen under the ban, one being John of Winchester, who was succeeded by Nicholas, translated hither from Worcester. Whether the Abbot of Hyde held different political views from his brother of St. Swithun's, or whether he merely wished to conciliate the higher powers, does not appear ; but we know that the Legate was his guest at Hyde Abbey, which was just outside Winchester. Great festivities seem to have taken place ; but the visit was the occasion also of considerable trouble, as a quarrel arose between Ottoboni's servants and those of the Abbey, which became so THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 97 serious that the powerful guest thought it his duty to lay the whole establishment under an interdict. And so the King's reign drew to a close ; stormy and tem- pestuous it had been, but it was to end in more peaceful times, and with a few years of fairly constitutional government. William de Valence was at Winchester Castle, repairing its damages, and fortifying it in case the barons might again prove troublesome at some future day. When he was absent his wife seems to have kept guard, for he writes her word that he is sending Sir A. Immer to provision the castle, and to be under her orders. She would not be without amusement in this city, at any rate in the autumn, for here at the further end of the town on the summit of the steep green hill, where 200 years before Earl Wal- theof had suffered death, was held the great fair, now by royal favour allowed to continue for sixteen instead of fourteen days. For many years it was only rivalled in Europe by the fair of Beaucaire, in Languedoc, and none but those who have seen one of the great continental fairs can at all realise in these modern days how gay must have been the scene on the green down where all nationalities mingled together, and where king's messengers jostled against ordinary burghers in order to secure the best wax, pepper and cummin ; but the pepper had to be carefully scrutinised, for a few years back there had been a great outcry from the supposi- tion that the vile Saracens had poisoned it in order to destroy the Christians ! This St. Giles' fair was, indeed, no common event. On the previous evening — the last day of August — the Mayor of Win- chester went sadly to one of the city gates — either the King's 98 THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY gate or the south gate — and there handed to the bishop's officers (" justiciarii pavilionis," as they are styled) the keys of the city ; for during the fair time the bishop received the toll levied on all merchandise that passed through for sale, except some small sums allotted to Hyde Abbey, St. Swithun's Priory, &c. No wonder there were disputes between the various authorities, their retainers, the merchants, and the townsfolk, for all the city shops had to be shut, and every trade was stopped within seven leagues, this including Southampton, where no buying or selling was allowed except of victuals, and to the bishop belonged "all weyfs and strays" within the seven leagues. It is to be hoped that the amusement of the fair made up for some of the sorrows of the ordinary shopkeepers. The summit of the hill was covered with stalls arranged in regular streets ; some were of wood, some of stone not roofed in, and the streets were called after the various countries whose merchants had come, often at the risk of their lives, to sell their wares. There was the street of the Flemmyns, of Caen, Limoges, Bristol, Exeter, Cornwall. There, too, was Spice Street, Wool Street, Wheeler's Street, as well as the Goldsmithry, the Drapery, St. Swithun's Spicery. There was a regular code of rules and bye-laws, and a special court on the summit of the hill, where the bishop's officers sat to see that the rules were kept ; also fire — that worst enemy of all — had to be rigidly guarded against, for once St. Giles' Church hard by had been burnt down during fair time, and the citizens would not soon forget that conflagration. One more scene and we have done — it is a peaceful one. The old King had held another Parliament at Winchester in I 268, when THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY 99 Prince Edward was made Seneschal of England, and two years later a council was summoned to consider the well-worn subject of money ; this time it was not wanted for a sham Crusade, but for the brave prince who was really going to take the Cross. In the castle the King and his son took their last leave of each other, for Henry was to see his firstborn no more. Prince Edward bade farewell also to the monks of St. Swithun's as in full chapter they were assembled in the old Chapter House, which had during the present reign been so often the scene of perplexed consultations and angry disputes relative to the elections of bishop and prior. Two years after this, the old King was taken ill on his way from Norwich to London, and stopping at St. Edmund's Abbey he " confessed his sins with humility, beating his heart with grief remitted ill-will to all, and promised an amended state of life." But, having broken so many promises in past times, Henry was not allowed the opportunity of keeping this one, for in a few days he died, after a reign of fifty-six years. During this time his native town had certainly passed through as many turmoils as the King, and the words in which a chronicler describes him — " he possessed robust strength, and was inconsiderate in his acts " — might perhaps not unfitly be applied to the city whose name he bore. We shall not uselessly have recalled to modern readers these troublous times — troublous both to the country at large and to indi- vidual cities as well — if the story should invest with somewhat more of general interest several of those men whom six centuries divide from us, especially the great monk-historian to whose chronicle F ioo THE TURMOILS OF A MEDIEVAL CITY we owe so much. We have at least shown that England has much to be thankful for at the present time and under the rule of Queen Victoria. Englishmen of to-day can also look back upon a reign as long as was that of Henry of Winchester, but with very different memories than those over which Matthew Paris mourned so quaintly. These old memories we have tried to revive by a sketch of the life of that city which must ever dispute with London the title of England's first Capital. Printed by Ballantyne Hanson & Co. London