UCSB LIBRARY 
 
 paMOJJOq SBM i! ipm/w uioj| 
 
 Ajuqii am oj iBuajBUJ smi mnjau 
 
 88l.-trZ006 VO 'sa|a6uv OT 'an USA v pJe6|(H SO* 
 
 Ainovd AbVban IVNOIOBU Nd3Hinos 
 
 B!UJOJ!|BQ |0
 
 THE 
 
 L A D I E S' 
 
 WORK-TABLE BOOK; 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 CLEAR AND PRACTICAL INSTRUCTIONS 
 
 PLAIN AND FANCY NEEDLEWORK, 
 
 EMBROIDERYj-KNITTING, NETTING, 
 AND CROCHET. 
 
 WITH NUMEROUS ENGRAVINGS, 
 
 ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE VARIOUS STITCHES IN THOSE USEFUL AND 
 FASHIONABLE EMPLOYMENTS. 
 
 NEW-YORK: 
 J. WINCHESTER, 30 ANN-STREET 
 
 1844.
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IF it b* true that " home scenes are rendered happy or miserable 
 in proportion to the good or evil influence exercised over them by 
 woman as sister, wife, or mother" it will be admitted as a fact 
 ol the utmost importance, that every thing should be done to im- 
 prove the taste, cultivate the understanding, and elevate the charac- 
 ter of those " high priestesses " of our domestic sanctuaries. The 
 page of history informs us, that the progress of any nation in mor- 
 als, civilization, and refinement, is in proportion to the elevated 
 or degraded position in which woman is placed in. society; and 
 the same instructive volume will enable us to perceive, that the 
 fanciful creations of the needle, have exerted a marked influence 
 over the pursuits and destinies of man. 

 
 IV INTRODUCTION. 
 
 To blend the useful, with the ornamental and to exhibit the 
 gushing forth of mind, vitalised by the warm and glowing affec- 
 tions of the heart, is the peculiar honor and sacred destiny of wo- 
 man. Without her influence, life would be arrayed in sables, and 
 the proud lords of creation would be infinitely more miserable and 
 helpless than the beasts that perish. To render then those " ter- 
 restrial angels" all that our fondest wishes could desire, or our 
 most vivid imaginations picture, must be, under any circumstances, 
 a pleasing and delightful employment ; while for a father or a 
 brother to behold her returning all the care bestowed upon her, by 
 the thousand offices of love, to the performance to which she alone 
 is equal, is doubtless one of the most exalted sources of human 
 felicity 
 
 Providence has, in a remarkable manner, adapted woman's tastto 
 and propensities to the station she was designed to occupy in the 
 scale of being. Tender and affectionate, it is her highest bliss to 
 minister to the wants, the convenience, or the pleasure of those 
 she loves ; and hence, her inventive powers have been, in all ages, 
 called into early and active exercise, in the fabrication of those ar- 
 ticles calculated to accomplish those desirable ends. Amongst 
 these, Useful and Ornamental Needlework, Knitting, and Netting,
 
 INTRODUCTION. V 
 
 occupy a distinguished place, and are capable of being made, not 
 only sources of personal gratification, but of high moral benefit, and 
 the means of developing in surpassing loveliness and grace, some 
 of the highest and noMest feelings of the soul. 
 
 To become an expert needle-woman should be an object of am- 
 bition to every fair one Never is beauty and feminine grace 
 so attractive, as when engaged in the honorable discharge of house- 
 hold duties, and domestic cares. The subjects treated of in this 
 little manual are of vast importance, and to them we are indebted 
 for a large amount of the comforts we enjoy ; as, without their 
 aid, we should be reduced to a state of misery and destitution of 
 which it is hardly possible to form an adequate conception. To 
 learn, then, how, to fabricate articles of dress and utility for family 
 use, or, in the case of ladies blessed with the means of affluence, 
 for the aid and comfort of the deserving poor, should form one of 
 the most prominent branches of female education. And yet ex- 
 perience must have convinced those who are at all conversant with 
 the general state of society, that this is a branch of study to which 
 nothing like due attention is paid in the usual routine of school in- 
 struction. The effects of this neglect are often painfully apparent 
 in after life, when, from a variety of circumstances, such know-
 
 v INTRODUCTION. 
 
 ledge would be of the highest advantage, and subservient to the 
 noblest ends, either ef domestic comfort, or of active and generous 
 
 benevolence. 
 
 
 
 The records of history inform us of the high antiquity of the 
 art of needlework ; and its beautiful mysteries were amongst the 
 earliest developments of female taste and ingenuity. As civiliza- 
 tion increased, new wants called forth new exertions ; the loom 
 poured forth its multifarious materials, and the needle, with its 
 accompanying implements, gave form and utiltyto the fabrics sub- 
 mitted to its operations. No one can look upon THE NEEDLE, 
 without emotion ; it is a constant companion throughout the pil- 
 grimage of life. We find it the first instrument of use placed in 
 the hand of budding childhood, and it is found to retain its useful- 
 ness and charm, even when trembling in the grasp of fast declining 
 age. The little girl first employs it in the dressing of her doll : 
 then she is taught its still higher use, in making up some neces- 
 sary articles for a beloved brother, or a revered parent. Approach- 
 ing to womanhood, additional preparations of articles of use, as 
 ornaments of herself and others, call for its daily employment ; 
 and with what tender emotions does the glittering steel inspire the 
 bosom, as beneath its magic touch, that which is to deck a lover
 
 INTRODUCTION. vii 
 
 or adorn a bride, becomes visible in the charming productions of 
 female skill and fond regard. To the adornments of the bridal 
 bed, the numerous preparations for an anxiously-expected little 
 stranger, and the various comforts and conveniences of life, the 
 service of this little instrument is indispensible. Often too is it 
 found aiding in the preparation of gifts of friendship, the effects of 
 benevolence, and the works of charity. Many of those articles, 
 which minister so essentially to the solace of the afflicted, would 
 be unknown without it ; and its friendly aid does not desert us, 
 even in the dark hour of sorrow and affliction. By its aid, we form 
 the last covering which is to enwrap the body of a departed loved 
 one, and prepare those sable habiliments, which custom has 
 adopted as the external signs of mourning. 
 
 The needle is also capable of becoming an important monitor to 
 the female heart ; and we would impress this truth seriously upon 
 their recollection, that as there is 
 
 " Sermons in stones, 
 And good in every thing." 
 
 so the needle they so often use, is, or may be, a silent but salutary 
 moral teacher. They all know that however good the eye of a
 
 V ui INTRODUCTION. 
 
 needle may be, if it were rusted and pointless, it would be of little 
 use. Let them also recollect, that though it may posses the finest 
 point and polish in the world, if destitute of the eye, it would be 
 of no use at all. The lesson we wish them to derive from hence, 
 is this ; that as it is the eye which holds the thread, and that it is 
 by the thread alone that the needle becomes useful, so it is the eye 
 of intelligence directed to the attainment of useful ends, that gives 
 all the real value to the point and polish, which is so much ad- 
 mired in the educated female ; and that unless the intellectual 
 powers of the mind be engaged in the pursuits of goodness, all 
 other endowments will be useless to their possessor. Let them 
 learn also, not to despise such of their companions as, though in- 
 telligent and useful, are neither possessed of wit or elegance equal 
 to their own. Circumstances may have rendered them, like the 
 needle, rusty and pointless ; but the eye of intelligence is there, 
 and they may still be useful. 
 
 The want of a work containing clear instructions, without un- 
 necessary diffuseness, by which the uninitiated may become their 
 own instructors, has long been sensibly felt ; and this want, the 
 following pages are intended to supply. Our aim is, not to make
 
 INTRODUCTION. IX 
 
 young ladies servile copyists, but to lead them to the formation of 
 habits of thought and reflection, which may issue in higher attain- 
 ments than the knitting of a shawl, or the netting of a purse, 
 
 Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservi- 
 ent to the development of moral goodness, that they may become 
 pursuits at all worthy Of an accountable being. We were not sent 
 into this world to flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only 
 to be seen and admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow 
 beings; and to make all our powers and capabilities, in some way 
 or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers 
 on the path of time. To this end, we wish our fair countrywomen 
 to devote their best attention ; and, in its attainment, to exert every 
 energy which they possess. We wish them to make all the know- 
 ledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose, which 
 will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the well-spring of 
 the purest affections must be opened in the soul ; and the elegant 
 productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by 
 the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a 
 leisure hour be con-verted into efficient ministers of good; and 
 such they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives,
 
 X INTRODUCTION. 
 
 and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more im- 
 portant duties, which we owe to Heaven, to our fellow beings, 
 and to ourselves. 
 
 We are anxious to render elegant amusements conducive to the 
 attainment of moral ends ; and to lay that foundation of intellec- 
 tual superiority, and affectionate regard, for the comfort and hap- 
 piness of others, which can alone give light and animation, sweet- 
 ness and blooming freshness, to the interesting scenes of future 
 life. All engagements, which are calculated to elevate, soften, and 
 harmonize the human character, have this tendency ; and it is in 
 the assured conviction that the employments here treated of, are, 
 when cultivated in due subordination to higher duties, well adapted 
 to secure these objects, and to promote these domestic ends, that 
 the Ladies' Work-Table Book has been prepared, and is now pre- 
 sented to the lovely daughters of our land. The public will be 
 the best judge how far we have succeeded in our effort. Small as 
 the work is, it has not been produced without much labor, and 
 considerable exercise of thought ; and it is dedicated to our fair 
 countrywomen, in the fervent hope, that it will not be found al- 
 together unworthy of their favorable notice and regard.
 
 INTRODUCTION. XI 
 
 Iii conluding these introductory remarks, we wish to say a word 
 or two to the parents and guardians of those, whose excellence of 
 character is so essential to the welfare of our beloved country, 
 We trust by you, our little manual will be cordially approved, and 
 placed, as a memento of affection, in the hands of those you most 
 desire to see models of sincerity, elegance, and accomplishments. 
 This will be well ; but we trust the matter will not be allowed to 
 rest there. It is not when good instructors and proper books are 
 provided for the young, that the duties of the parental relationship 
 are performed. No ; care must be taken to give efficiency to the 
 means thus called into requisition, by the most assiduous care, de- 
 voted attention, and judiciously expressed approval on the part of 
 those who claim the highest regard from the rising generation. 
 The path of education is not always strewed with flowers, nor 
 can it ever be pursued with either pleasure or advantage unless a 
 foundation of practical piety and moral worth be laid, on which 
 the superstructure may securely rest. 
 
 It has been well remarked " that intellect may be cultivated at 
 school, but that the affections of the heart can only be properly 
 developed amid the scenes of home." Our aim in this work has
 
 Xii INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Deen, while seeking to promote the purposes of genuine education, 
 to raise high the moral sentiments, and cultivate to an eminent de- 
 gree the best sensibilities of the soul. In this we ask for your 
 cordial and careful co-operation. We know the influence of a 
 judicious mother, and we confidently commend our labor to your 
 favorable regard.
 
 CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING . 
 
 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK EXPLANATION OF STITCHES 28 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION 
 
 OF BODY LINEN ... .... 37 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION 
 
 OF HOUSE LINEN . . .... 54
 
 Xiv CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS . 59 
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK EXPLANATION OF STITCHES . , 63 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS 71 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY . 79 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK PREPARATION OF FRAMES . . 82 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLE- 
 WORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES .... 88
 
 CONTENTS. XV 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS . . 91 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 KNITTING EXPLANATION OF STITCHES . . . .97 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 KNITTING EXAMPLES IN KNITTING . . . .111 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 NETTING EXPLANATION OF STITCHES . . . .125 
 
 CHAPTER XV. 
 NETTING EXAMPLES IN NETTING . . . . .135 
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CROCHET EXPLANATION OF THE PRINCIPAL STITCHES IN. 
 CROCHET WORK . 142
 
 XVI CONTENTS. 
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 
 CROCHET EXAMPLES IN CROCHET . .148 
 
 CHAPTER XVIII. 
 TATTING EXPLANATION OF STITCHES . . . .153 
 
 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 CONCLUDING REMARKS 155
 
 THE 
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 MATERIALS AND IMPLEMENTS FOR WORKING. 
 
 MATERIALS FOR PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 THE subject of this chapter is one to which it is hardly possi- 
 ble to pay too much attention ; since, on the judicious selection of 
 materials, depends, to a vast extent, the success of that prudent 
 and well-regulated economy, which is so essential to the welfare 
 and prosperity of every family. On thKiccount, we have thought 
 it right to place before our readers the following observations, 
 which should be carefully attended to, as of the utmost impor- 
 tance. In purchasing goods, be careful to examine the quality ; 
 and, if not experienced in such matters, take with you an experi- 
 enced friend. Cheap goods generally prove the dearest in the end. 
 The following rules may assist you in this respect, if under the 
 necessity of relying upon your own judgment. Be careful, in 
 purchasing articles, such as linen, calico, &c., for a specific pur- 
 pose, to have it the proper width. A great deal of waste may be 
 incurred, by inattention to this important direction. 
 
 CALICO is often so dressed up, as to make it extremely difficult 
 to ascertain its real quality : hence, it is best to buy it undressed. 
 It should be soft, and free from specks. It is of various widths^
 
 18 THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 and of almost all prices. A good article, at a medium price, will 
 be found cheapest in the end. 
 
 LINEN is of various qualities. That which is called Suffolk 
 hemp is considered the best. Irish linen is also in great repute. 
 But you must be careful to escape imposition ; as there are plenty 
 of imitations, which are good for nothing. 
 
 MUSLIN CHECKS are much used for caps, &c., and are of vari- 
 ous qualities. You may form a good judgment of these, by ob- 
 serving the thin places between the checks and the threads ; if the 
 former be good, and the latter even, they may generally be relied on. 
 
 BLUE CHECKS. These may be procured either of cotton or lin- 
 en ; but the linen ones, though highest in price, are cheapest in 
 the end : they will wear double the length of time that the cotton 
 ones will. 
 
 PRINTS. Give a good price, if you wish to secure a good arti- 
 cle. Some colors, as red^ink, lilac, bright brown, buff, and blue, 
 wear well ; green, violet, ^d some other colors are very liable to 
 fade. The best way is to procure a patch, and wash half of it 
 This will test the color, and may prevent much disappointment 
 
 FLANNELS. The Welsh flannels are generally preferred, as 
 those that are the most durable. Lancashire flannels are cheapest, 
 but are far inferior in quality. You may know the one from the 
 other by the color : the flannels of Lancashire are of a yellowish 
 hue ; those of Wales are a kind of bluish gray tint 
 
 WOOLLEN CLOTHS. These vary exceedingly, as to quality. 
 The low-priced ones are not worth half the purchase money. 
 Good woollen cloth is smooth, and has a good nap. If the sam- 
 ple shown you, be destitute of these qualities, have nothing to do 
 with it, unless you want to be cheated. 
 
 STUFFS. The quality of these is sometimes very difficult to
 
 THE LADIES' WOKK-TABLE BOOK. 19 
 
 detect. Holding them up to the light is a good plan. You should 
 also be particular as to the dyeing, as that is sometimes very indif- 
 ferently managed, and the stufi is dashed. Black dye is liable to 
 injure the material. Low-priced stuffs are rarely good for anything. 
 
 CRAPE. This is often damaged in the dying. You should 
 spread it over a white surface before you purchase it, as by that 
 means, the blemishes in the material, if any, will be more likely 
 to appear. 
 
 SILKS. These are, if good, costly ; and great care should be 
 exercised in selecting them. They should not be too stiff, as in 
 that case they are liable to crack ; and on the other hand, they 
 should not be too thin, as that kind is liable to tear almost as soon 
 as paper. A medium thickness and stiffness is the best. If plain, 
 you must be careful that there are no stains or specks in them ; 
 and if figured, it is advisable to have the pattern equally good on 
 both sides, This will enhance the price at first, but you will find 
 it to be good economy afterward. In silks that are to be sold 
 theap, a kind of camel's hair is frequently introduced. This may 
 be detected by pulling a piece of the suspected silk cross ways, 
 ind if camel's hair be mixed with it, it will spring with a kind of 
 whirring sound. This should be attended to. 
 
 SATIN. It is of various qualities and prices. The best is soft 
 and thick. When used for trimmings, it should be cut the cross 
 way, as it then looks better, and has a much richer appearance 
 than when pui on straight. 
 
 These general observations will be of great use, and should be 
 well impressed upon the memory, so as readily to be called into 
 exercise when needed. 
 
 In making up linen, thread is much preferable to cotton. Sew- 
 ing-silk should be folded up neatly in wash leather, and colored
 
 20 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK- 
 
 threads and cotton in paper, as the air and light are likely to in- 
 jure them. Buttons, hooks and eyes, and all metal implements, 
 when not in use, should be kept folded up ; as exposure to the 
 air not only tarnishes them, but is likely to injure them in a vari- 
 ety of ways. 
 
 MATERIALS FOE FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Canvas (coarse) eighteen threads to the inch. Work in cross 
 stitch with double wool. This is proper for a foot-stool, sofa- 
 pillow, &c. , 
 
 Canvas (very coarse) ten threads to the inch. Work in cross 
 stitch, over one thread, with single wooL If used for grounding, 
 work in two threads. This will accelerate the work, and look 
 equally welL 
 
 Silk Leaves. If no grounding is required, work in tent stitch. 
 The pattern should be large in proportion to the fineness of the 
 material. The finer the canvas, the larger the pattern. 
 
 Color. An attention to shade is of the utmost consequence ; 
 as on this, in an eminent degree, depends the perfection of the 
 work. The shades must be so chosen, as to blend into each oth- 
 er, or all harmony of coloring will be destroyed. The canvas 
 must be more distinct in tent stitch than in cross stitch, or rather 
 more strongly contrasted, especially in the dark shades of flowers: 
 without attention to this point, a good resemblance of nature can- 
 not be obtained. 
 
 Wool, (English and German) white, black, and various colors. 
 Two, three, four, five, or six shades of each color, as the na- 
 ture of the work may require. The same observation applies to 
 silk and cotton, in cases where those materials are used. 
 
 Split wool, for mosaic work.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 21 
 
 Silk. Split silk. Floss. Half twist. Deckers. China silk. 
 Fine purse silk. 
 
 Cotton, of various kinds. 
 
 Gold twist. Silver thread. Chenille. 
 
 Beads. Thick and transparent gold. Bright and burnt steel. 
 Silver plated, &c. 
 
 Perforated cards. 
 
 Canvas, called bolting, for bead work. 
 
 SCALE OF CANVASES. 
 
 Fjiglish Canvas. 
 
 French Canvas. 
 
 Canv- 
 
 Cross 
 
 Tent 
 
 Canvas 
 
 Cross 
 
 Tent 
 
 Canvas 
 
 Cross 
 
 Tent 
 
 us No. 
 
 stitch. 
 
 stitch. 
 
 Number. 
 
 stitch. 
 
 stitch. 
 
 Number 
 
 stitch. 
 
 stitch 
 
 16 
 
 4 1 
 
 9 
 
 40 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 10 
 
 6-L 
 
 13 
 
 18 
 
 5 3 
 
 10 
 
 42 
 
 lU 
 
 23 
 
 12 
 
 7! 
 
 1 <J 
 
 15 
 
 20 
 
 5- 
 
 11 
 
 45 . 
 
 
 25 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 17 
 
 22 
 
 6 2 
 
 12 
 
 48 
 
 13 2 
 
 26 
 
 16 
 
 9 ? 
 
 ^2 
 
 19 
 
 24 
 
 61 
 
 13 
 
 50 
 
 14 
 
 28 
 
 18 
 
 10 
 
 20 
 
 26 
 
 7 
 
 14 
 
 55 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 19 
 
 11 
 
 22 
 
 28 
 
 71 
 '3 
 
 15 
 
 60 
 
 17 
 
 34 
 
 20 
 
 12 
 
 24 
 
 30 
 
 8 
 
 16 
 
 
 
 
 22 
 
 13 
 
 26 
 
 32 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 Silk 
 
 
 
 24 
 
 14 
 
 28 
 
 34 
 
 91 
 
 19 
 
 Hanvas 
 
 14 
 
 28 
 
 26 
 
 
 
 36 
 
 10" 
 
 20 
 
 
 
 
 30 
 
 15 
 
 30 
 
 38 
 
 io| 
 
 21 
 
 
 
 
 40 
 
 16 
 
 32 
 
 MATERIALS FOR EMBROIDERY. 
 
 Silk, satin, velvet, and cloth. 
 
 MATERIALS FOR KNITTING, NETTING, AND CROCHET. 
 
 SILK. This material is extensively used in the various produc- 
 tions ol which we are about to treat. The kinds usually employed 
 in "Knitting Netting, and Crochet, are purse silk, or twist ; coarse 
 and fine netting silk ; second sized purse twist ; plain silk ; China
 
 22 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 silk ; extra fine, and finest netting silk ; second sized netting silk ; 
 coarse and fine chenille, and crochet silk. These are so well known 
 that it would be a waste of time to describe them in detail. They 
 are of a great variety of colors, and of different qualities ; some 
 sorts being much more durable, both in fabric and color, than others 
 No young lady should trust, at first, to her own judgment in mak- 
 ing the selection : but a little attention will soon render her a pro- 
 ficient hi the art of choosing the most profitable materials. The 
 China silks of the French surpass all others, of that kind, with 
 which we are acquainted, both as to the nature of tints, and the 
 brilliancy of the various dyes and shades. 
 
 Wool. This is of various colors and shades ; German wool, sin- 
 gle, and double ; Hamburgh wool, fleecy, of three, four, five, six, 
 seven, and eight threads ; embroidery fleecy Shetland wool ; English 
 wool, coarse yarn, for mitts, 
 
 BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF WOOLS. 
 
 German wool is the produce of the merino breed, in its highest 
 state of cultivation, and is the best sheep's wool we possess. The 
 merino fleece is brought to the greatest perfection in Saxony, and 
 the adjacent states. It is chiefly manufactured for the purposes 
 of needle-work,&c., at Gotha; the dyeing of it is performed at Ber- 
 lin, and in other parts of Germany. The wools of Germany are, 
 in fineness and softness, much, superior to those of Spain. The 
 wool is prepared in various sizes, and for some kinds of work, 
 may be split with great advantage. A large quantity is imported 
 into this country in a raw state, and is dyed and manufactured here. 
 Some of this is equal to the wools prepared in Germany, as to 
 quality ; but the brilliancy of the color will not bear comparison.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 23 
 
 This remark does not extend to the black German wool, prepared 
 in this country, and which is far superior to that prepared on the 
 continent. Much wool, of a very superior quality is annually pre- 
 pared for the market ; and so great is its resemblance to a superior 
 article, that it requires much attention, and an experienced eye, to 
 detect the fraud. English wool, or what is often called embroidery 
 wool, is much harsher than that of Germany ; yet it is of a very 
 superior kind, and much to be preferred for some kinds of work. 
 The dye of several colors of English lamb's wool is equal to that 
 of the best dyes of Germany ; especially scarlet and some of the 
 shades of blue, green, and gold color, which for brilliancy and per- 
 manency, may justly claim equality with the most finished produc- 
 tions of the continental states. 
 
 Worsted is another description of our native produce, and is 
 extensively used for a great variety of useful purposes, which are 
 familiar to every one. A great portion of the needle- work of the 
 last century was done in a fine kind of worsted, called CREWELS : 
 and some specimens still remain, which do great credit to the ven- 
 erable grandames of the present generation. Yarn is a coarse 
 kind of worsted, much employed in making garden nets, and for 
 various other purposes. Fleecy (English) is manufactured from 
 the Leicestershire breed, and is much used in knitting and netting: 
 it is of two qualities; both varying in size, from an eighth to a 
 quarter of an inch in diameter. They are made up of threads, 
 varying from two to twelve, and are both equally good. They 
 are applied to crochet as well as to the other descriptions of work 
 named. German fleecy, thought but little used, is much superior 
 to that of this country. Hamburgh wool is an excellent article, 
 but has not hitherto been much in request. Great care is neces- 
 sary, in selecting wool of good quality : but let the young novice
 
 24 LADIES' WORK TABLE BOOK. 
 
 give to the subject her best attention ; and should she find herself 
 sometimes deceived, still persevere, remembering that " practice 
 makes perfect." 
 
 COTTON, of various sizes, as numbered from one to six, or higher 
 if required. In the choice of this material, much care is needed, 
 not only in the selection of colors and shades, but also to ascer- 
 tain if the color has been stained with a permanent dye. 
 
 DOWN. This is sometimes used for stuffing knitted cushions, 
 muffs, &c., and is too well known to need any description here. 
 
 GOLD AND SILVER THREAD AND CORD. The precious metals 
 are now very generally employed in the ornamental parts of all 
 kinds of fancy work. Gold and silver threads consists of a thread 
 of silk, round which is spun an exceedingly fine wire of the metal 
 required. For gold, silver or copper gilt wire is employed, as pure 
 gold could not be so easily wrought. These threads can be em- 
 ployed in almost any way which the taste of the fair artist may 
 induce her to devise Besides the thread, gold and silver cord is 
 also in much demand, and looks extremely beautiful, when em- 
 ployed with taste and judgment. This material is a twist, and is 
 composed of different quantities of threads, according to the thick- 
 ness required. Much care is required in working with it, or the 
 beauty of the material will be spoilt. It is much used in crochet, 
 and without due attention, the point of the needle is liable to catch 
 the cord, and to break the wire, which would entirely destroy the 
 beauty of the performance. 
 
 BEADS. These beautiful fabrications of art, are composed of 
 gold, silver, polished steel, and glass. There is also a beautiful 
 sort called garnet beads, with gold points. All these can be pro- 
 cured at any of the establishments for the sale of fancy articles, 
 and are to he employed as the judgment or fancy may direct The
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 25 
 
 gold beads are used in making all kinds of knitting, netting, and 
 crochet, and look well either by themselves, or when in connec- 
 tion with those of the other materials named. Glass beads, may 
 be procured of any variety of color, and when in combination with 
 gold, silver, or steel, form a beautiful relief. 
 
 NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 Frames. Cross stitch needles. Sewing needles. Meshes, of 
 various sizes at least three. Chenille Needles. Pair of long 
 sharp-pointed scissors. Cartridge Paper. Tissue Panel A fine 
 piercer. Seam piercer. Camel's hair brushes. 
 
 Mixture of white lead and gum water, to draw patterns for dark 
 materials. 
 
 Mixture of stone blue and gum water, for light colors. 
 
 Black lead pencils. 
 
 NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR KNITTING. 
 
 Needles of various sizes. The Nos. referred to are those oi 
 the knitting needle gauge. Needles pointed at either end, for 
 Turkish knitting. Ivory, or wooden pins, for knitting a biroche. 
 A knitting sheath, &c., to be fastened on the waist of the knitter, 
 toward the right hand, for the purpose of keeping the needle in 
 a steady and proper position. 
 
 NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR NETTING. 
 
 A pin or mesh, on which to form the loops. A needle called 
 a netting needle, formed into a kind of fork, with two prongs at 
 each end. The ends of the prongs meet and form a blunt point, 
 not fastened like the eye of a common needle, but left open, that 
 the thread or twine may pass between them, and be wound upon 
 the needle. The prongs are brought to a point, in order that the
 
 26 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 needle may pass through a small loop without interruption. Twine 
 to form foundations. A fine long darning needle for bead work. 
 Meshes of various, sizes from No. 1 to 11. Flat meshes, and 
 ivory meshes ; also of various sizes. The gauge is the same as 
 that for knitting-needles. 
 
 NECESSARY IMPLEMENTS FOR CROCHET. 
 
 Ivory crochet needles of various sizes. Steel crochet needles. 
 
 Rug needles and a pair of long sharp pointed scissors. These im- 
 plements should be disposed in a regular and orderly manner, as 
 should also the materials for working. Order and regularity are 
 matters but too frequently neglected in the gay and buoyant sea- 
 son of youth ; and this fault, which is the parent of so much an- 
 noyance in after life, is but too generally overlooked by those 
 whose duty it is to correct these incipient seeds of future mischief. 
 No pursuit should be entered into by the young, without having 
 some moral end in view, and this is especially needful to be ob- 
 served in cases, where at first sight, it might appear a matter of 
 indifference, whether the pursuit was one of utility, or of mere re- 
 laxation. We earnestly entreat our young friends, never to for- 
 get, that even our amusements may be rendered an acceptable sac- 
 rifice to their heavenly Father, if they assiduously endeavor to 
 make the habits they form in their seasons of relaxation from 
 graver studies, conduce to the development of the higher faculties 
 of their nature, and subordinate preparations for a more exalted 
 state of being, than any which this transitory scene can of it
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 27 
 
 present to their contemplation and pursuits. Dyer, speaking of 
 Tapestry, has beautifully said 
 
 " This bright art 
 
 Did zealous Europe learn of Pagan lands, 
 While she assayed with rage of holy war 
 To desolate their fields ; but old the skill : 
 Long were the Phrygian's pict'ring looms renown'd ; 
 Tyre also, wealthy seat of art, excell'd, 
 And elder Sidon, in th' historic web." 
 
 But we would have our fair friends to place before them a high 
 and a definite object. Let them seek, like the excellent Miss 
 
 Linwood 
 
 * 
 
 " To raise at once our reverence and delight, 
 To elevate the mind and charm the sight, 
 To pour religion through the attentive eye, 
 And waft the soul on wings of extacy ;" 
 Bid mimic art with nature's self to vie, 
 And raise the spirit to its native sky.
 
 CHAPTER 11. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK- 
 
 EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 
 
 BEFORE commencing those directions, which we deem it neces- 
 sary to place before our readers, in reference to this important 
 portion of the work-table manual, we wish to say a word or two 
 to our fair countrywomen, on the importance of a general and 
 somewhat extensive acquaintance with those arts, on which so 
 much of the comfort of individual and domestic life depends. 
 Economy of time, labor, and expenses, is an essential requisite in 
 every family; and will ever claim a due share of attention, from 
 her who is desirous of fulfilling with credit to herself and ad- 
 vantage to others, the allotted duties of her appointed station. To 
 those, who are at the head of the majority of families, an exten- 
 sive knowledge of the various departments of plain needlework is 
 indispensable. The means placed at their disposal are limited ; in 
 many instances, extremely so : and to make the most of these 
 means, generally provided by the continual care and unremitting 
 attention of the father and the husband, is a sacred duty, which 
 cannot be violated without the entailment of consequences which 
 every well regulated mind must be anxious to avoid. 
 
 The following are the principal stiches used in plain needle- 
 work.
 
 LADIES 1 WORK-TABLE HOOK. 29 
 
 SEWING AND FELLING. If you have selvages, join them to- 
 gether and sew them firmly. If you have raw edges, turn down 
 one of the edges once, and the other double the breadth, and then 
 turn half of it back again. This is for the fell. The two pieces 
 are pinned face to face, and seamed together ; the stitches being 
 in a slanting direction, and just deep enough to hold the separate 
 pieces firmly together. Then flatten the seam with the thumb, 
 turn the work over and fell it the same as hemming. The thread 
 is fastened by being worked between the pieces and sewn over. 
 
 HEMMINGS. Turn down the raw edge as evenly as possible. 
 Flatten, and be careful, especially in turning down the corners. 
 Hem from right to leff; bring the point of the needle from the 
 chest toward the right hand. Fasten the thread with out a knot, 
 and when you finish, sew several stitches close together, and cut 
 off the thread. 
 
 GERMAN HEMMING. Turn down both the raw edges once, 
 taking care so to do it, as that both turns may be toward your 
 person ; you then lay one below the other, so as that the smooth 
 edge of the nearest does not touch the other, but lies just beneath 
 it. The lower one is then to be hemmed or felled to the piece 
 against which you have laid it, still holding it before you. You 
 are next to open your sleeve, or whatever else you have been em- 
 ployed upon ; and laying the upper fold over the lower, fell it 
 down, and the work is done. 
 
 MANTUAMAKER'S HEM. You lay the raw edge of one of your 
 pieces a little below the other; the upper edge is then turned 
 over the other twice, and felled down as strong as possible. 
 
 RUNNING. Take three threads, leave three, and in order that 
 (he work may be kept as firm as possible, back-stitch occasionally. 
 If you sew selvages, they must be joined evenly together ; but if
 
 30 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 raw edges, one must be turned down once, and the other laid upon 
 it, but a few threads from the top. It is, in this case, to be felled 
 afterwards. 
 
 STITCHING. The work must be even as possible. Turn down 
 a piece to stitch to, draw a thread to stitch upon, twelve or four- 
 teen threads from the edge. Being thus prepared, you take two 
 threads back, and so bring, the needle out, from under two before. 
 Proceed in this manner, to the end of the row ; and in joining a 
 fresh piece of thread, take care to pass the needle between the edges 
 and bring it out where the last stitch was finished. 
 
 GATHERING You begin by taking the article to be gathered, and 
 dividing it into halves, and then into quarters, putting on pins, to 
 make the divisions. The piece, to which you are intending to 
 gather it, must be gathered about twelve threads from the top, tak- 
 ing three threads on the needle, and leaving four ; and so preceding, 
 alternately, until one quarter is gathered. Fasten the thread, by 
 twisting it round a pin; stroke the gathers, so that they lie evenly 
 and neatly, with a strong needle or pin. You then proceed as be- 
 fore, until all the gathers are gathered, Then take out the pins, 
 and regulate the gathers of each quarter, so as to correspond with 
 those of the piece to which it is to be sewed. The gathers are 
 then to be fastened on, one at a time ; and the stitches must be in 
 a slanting direction. The part to be gathered must be cut quite 
 even before commencing, or else it will be impossible to make the 
 gathering look well. 
 
 DOUBLE GATHERING, or PUFFING. This is sometimes employed 
 in setting on frills ; and when executed properly has a pretty effect. 
 You first gather the top, in the usual way ; then, having stroked 
 down the gathers, you gather again under the first gathering, and 
 of such a depth as you wish the puffing to be. You then sew on
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 31 
 
 the first gathering to the gown, frock, &c. you design to trim, at a 
 distance, corresponding with the width of the puffing : and the sec- 
 ond gathering sewed to the edge, so as to form a full hem. You 
 may make a double hem, if you please, by gathering three times 
 instead of only twice ; and one of the hems may be straight, while 
 the other is drawn to one side a little. This requires much exact- 
 ness, in the execution ; but if properly done, it gives a pleasing 
 variety to the work. 
 
 WHIPPING. You cut the edge smooth, and divide into halves 
 and quarters, as for gathering. You then roll the muslin or other 
 material very lightly upon the finger, making use of the leit thumb 
 for that purpose The needle must go in on the outside, and be 
 brought through, on the inside. The whipping-cotton should be 
 as strong and even as possible. In order that the stitches may 
 draw with ease, they must be taken with great care. The roll of 
 the whip should be about ten threads. 
 
 BUTTON-HOLE STITCH. These should be cut by a thread, and 
 their length should be that of the diameter 
 of the button. In working, the button- 
 hole must lie lengthways upon the fore- 
 finger ; and you begin at the side which 
 is opposite to the thumb, and the furthest 
 from the point of the finger qn which it is 
 laid. The needle must go in on the wrong side, and be brought 
 out on the right, five threads down. To make the stitch, the 
 needle is passed through the loop before it is drawn close. In turn- 
 ins: the corners, be careful not to do it too near; and in order that a 
 proper thickness may be obtained, it is necessary that the needle 
 should go in between every two threads. Making button-holes, 
 requires great care and attention.
 
 32 
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 FANCY BUTTON-HOLE STITCH. This resembles a very wide 
 button-hole stitch, and is very neat for the 
 fronts of bodies, where it has a very pretty 
 appearance ; likewise for the bands and the 
 shoulder bits, and above the broad hems 
 and tucks of frocks. 
 CHAIN STITCH. In making this stitch, you are to employ 
 union cord, bobbin, or braid, whichever you think 
 most suitable. Make a knot at the end, and draw 
 it through to the right side. While you put in the 
 needle, let the end hang loose, and bring it out be- 
 low, so as to incline a little towards the left hand. 
 Pass your needle over the cord, as you draw it out, 
 and this will form a loop. In drawing out the 
 mesh, you must be careful not to draw the stitch 
 too tight, as that would destroy the effect. You 
 proceed in the same manner to form the next, and each succeed- 
 ing loop ; taking care to put the needle in a little higher, an d ra- 
 ther more to the right than in the preceding stitch, so that each 
 loop begins within the lower part of the one going before it, and 
 you thus produce the resemblance of a chain. 
 
 FANCY CHAIN STITCH. The only difference between this and 
 the common chain stitch, is that very little 
 of the cord is taken up on the needle at a 
 time, and the stitches are far from each 
 other. Its appearance will be varied, ac- 
 cording as you put in the needle, to slant 
 little or much. If you should work it per- 
 fectly horizontal, it is the same as button- 
 hole stitch.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 33 
 
 HERRING-BONING. This is generally employed in articles com- 
 posed of flannel, or other thick material. 
 The edge is to be cut even, and turned 
 down once. You work from left to right, 
 thus: Put your needle into the material, 
 and take a stitch of two or three threads, 
 as close as possible, under the raw edge, and bring the needle 
 half way up that part which is turned down, and four or five 
 threads toward the right hand ; make another stitch, and bring 
 down the needle ; thus proceed until the work is finished. This 
 stitch is something like the back-bone of a fish, and is sometimes 
 used as an ornament for children's robes, and at the top of hems. 
 It looks both neat and elegant, when carefully executed. 
 
 FANCY HERRINOBONING. This is the same as common her- 
 ring-bone, only it is done in a perpendicular man- 
 ner, instead of being worked horizontally from left 
 to right ; and the thread is brought round behind 
 the needle, so as to finish the work in a more ele- 
 gant manner. It has an exceeding neat and pleas- 
 ing look, when it is well executed, and is consid- 
 ered as highly ornamental, in appropriate situa- 
 tions 
 
 ANGULAR STITCH. This stitch resembles button-hole stitch, 
 only it is carried from right to left 
 to form the pattern. It is a neat 
 ornament for cuffs, skirts and capes, 
 and children's pelisses. As much 
 of its beauty depends on its regularity, care should be taken to 
 make the patterns very even and straight, and of an equal width ; 
 without due attention to this, the work will be spoiled.
 
 34 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 DOUBLE HERRING-BONING. This pattern is a kind of double 
 herring-bone, on each side ; it 
 is too intricate to describle mi- 
 nutely. The engraving will 
 give a better idea of this stitch 
 than any description we could 
 give. Great care being required to keep the pattern even, it is 
 advisable to run a tacking thread down the middle of it, to serve 
 as a guide. 
 
 HORSE-SHOE STITCH. This is done with thick, loosely-twisted 
 cotton, or bobbin, and is worked 
 from left to right, as shown in the 
 accompanying engraving. It has a 
 very neat and pretty appearance, 
 when worked near the edge of hems, 
 robings, &c. 
 
 FANCY BOBBIN EDGING. This is formed by a succession of 
 loops made in the following manner : 
 Make a knot at the end, and put the 
 needle through to the right side, just 
 below the hem. Bring the bobbin 
 over the hem, and, putting the needle 
 in at the wrong side, bring it through 
 to the right. Draw the loop to the 
 
 si/e you desire, pass tne bobbin through it, and commence the 
 next stitch, proceeding as before. 
 
 CHAIN STITCH, ON GATHERS. This looks well, if worked in 
 colored worsted, or in cord. Two gathers are taken up for each 
 stitch, taking care always to take one of the previous stitches and 
 one new gather on the needle at the same time.
 
 LADIES' WOPK-TABLE BOOK. 33 
 
 CORAL PATTERN. This requires great accuracy in the work- 
 ing, and it is advisable for the inexpe- 
 rienced to run lines, in long stitches, 
 to fix the middle and outsides of the 
 pattern. It may be best understood by 
 the engraving, merely observing that 
 the stitch is begun on the left hand, 
 and continued alternately from left to 
 right, always pointing the needle toward the centre. It is very 
 suitable for the waist-bands of children's frocks, the tops of broad 
 hems, &c. 
 
 FERPENTTNE STITCH. This is exceedingly pretty, and is much 
 employed for children's dresses. It 
 is worked with the hand, being sewn 
 on to the material when made. Take 
 the cord, knot it so as to form a loop 
 
 at the end ; then pass the other end through the loop, toward the 
 front, to form another loop to the right hand ; continue passing 
 the bobbin through the loop on one side, then through the loop on 
 the other, directing the cord so as to pass from the side of the 
 work invariably towards the inner, or that part next the work. 
 BIASSING. In this operation, the first part of the stitch is the 
 same as gathering. You then stitch 
 down ; and upon the right side of the 
 gather, you lay a thread a good deal 
 thicker than the one you used for gath- 
 ering thread. Over this thread you 
 sew, taking care to take hold also of the 
 gathering thread. The needle is always to be pointed toward 
 your chest. You may work two or three rows in this way, on
 
 36 LADIES' WORK TABLE BOOK. 
 
 the sleeves and shoulders of dresses, &c., which has a handsome 
 effect. You must take grest care to bring the needle out between 
 each one of the gathers. 
 
 HONEY COMBING. The material may be velvet, silk, &c. ; and 
 the mode of working is as follows : 
 The piece you intend honey-comb- 
 ing, must be creased in regular folds, 
 taking care that they are as even as 
 
 possible. Then make the folds lie closely together, by tacking 
 them with a strong thread, and in long stitches. You then take 
 silk of the right color ; stitch together at equal and proper dis- 
 tances the two first folds, and proceed, with each succeeding two, 
 in the same manner, only taking the stitches in the intermediate 
 spaces. Thus the stitches of each alternate row will correspond 
 together. Draw out the thread, when the work is finished, and 
 on pulling it open, it will form diamonds on the right side. This 
 work is proper for the inside of work-boxes, and is sometimes 
 employed to ornament the tops of beds. It looks well, if care- 
 fully executed. 
 
 A perfect acquaintance with these various stitches, will enable 
 the practical needlewoman to pursue her occupation with ease and 
 pleasure.
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN. 
 
 In order to secure economy of lime, labor, and expense, and 
 also to do everything neatly and in order, the lady who is intend- 
 ing to engage in the domestic employment of preparing linen ne- 
 cessary for personal and family use, should be careful to have all 
 her materials ready, and disposed in the most systematic manner 
 possible, before commencing work. The materials employed in 
 the construction of articles, which come under the denomination of 
 plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list of them would 
 occupy more than half our space ; and they are so well known, 
 that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shall 
 therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any 
 lady may soon become expert in this necessary department of 
 household uses, merely observing, that a neat work-box, well sup- 
 plied with all the implements required including knife, scissors 
 (of at least three sizes,) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bod- 
 kins, thimbles, thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black 
 lead pencils, india rubber, &c., should be provided, and be furnished 
 with a lock and key, to prevent the contents being thrown into 
 confusion by children, servants, or unauthorized intruders. 
 
 The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, imple-
 
 38 THE LADIES' WOHK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 ments, &c., placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of 
 which it is an advantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of 
 a screw,) may commence her work, and proceed with pleasure to 
 herself, and without annoyance to any visiter, who may favor 
 her with a call We would recommend, wherever practicable, 
 that the work-table should be made of cedar, and that the win- 
 dows of the working parlor should open into a garden, well sup- 
 plied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume of which 
 will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose cir- 
 cumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their 
 time to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be ob- 
 tained, at least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished 
 with a few cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The be- 
 neficent Creator intended all His children, in whatever station of 
 life they might be placed, to share in the common bounties of His 
 providence ; and when she, who not for pleasure, but to obtain 
 the means of subsistence, is compelled to seclude herself, for days 
 or weeks together, from the cheering influence of exercise in the 
 open air, it becomes both her duty, and that of those for whom 
 she labors, to secure as much of these advantages, or of the best 
 substitutes for them, as the circumstances of the case will admit. 
 
 We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found 
 clear though concise rules, for the preparation of various articles 
 of dress and attire. 
 
 APRONS. These are made of a variety of materials, and are ap- 
 plied to various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are 
 made of white, blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen ; 
 nankeen, stuff, and print, are also employed. The width is gen- 
 erally one breadth of the material, and the length is regulated by 
 the height of the wearer. Dress aprons are, of course, made of
 
 THE LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 39 
 
 finer materials cambric, muslin, silk, satin, lace, clear and other 
 kinds of muslin, &c., and are generally two breadths in width, one 
 of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on each side, and 
 leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all kinds are 
 straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or stock at 
 the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bot- 
 tom with a broad hem ; those with two breadths, must be hemmed 
 at the sides likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a 
 nail broad ; its length is to be determined by the waist of the 
 wearer. It should be fastened at the back, with hooks and eye- 
 let holes. To some aprons, pockets are attached, which are either 
 sewed on in front, or at the back, and a slit made in the apron to 
 correspond with them. The slit, or opening of the pocket is to be 
 hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most desirable. In some 
 kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which are useful to cover 
 the upper part of the dress. Their size must be determined by 
 the taste of the person who is to wear them. 
 
 DRESS APRONS. Take two breadths of any material you 
 choose, dividing one of them in the middle. Hem all round, with 
 a broad hem, three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one 
 and a-half nails deep in the middle, into which a piece of whale- 
 bone is to be inserted, on each side of which work a row or two in 
 chain stitch. The band is scolloped out from the centre on its 
 lower side, five and a-half nails, leaving the extremities of the band 
 one nail broad. To the scolloped portion, the apron is to be fulled 
 on, so as to sit as neat as possible ; leaving the space beneath the 
 whalebone plain. Confine the folds, by working two rows of 
 chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the band, leaving half 
 an inch between each row. The lower edge of the band is orna- 
 mented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top.
 
 40 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 VANDYKE APRON. This may be made either of silk or muslin. 
 The edge of the apron is to be turned down, once all round, an 
 the right side, to the depth of three-quarters of a nail ; and the 
 Vandykes are formed by running from the edge of the apron to near 
 the rough edge of the material, which is afterward to be turned 
 in. When the Vandykes are completed, they are to be turned 
 inside out, and made as smooth as possible. A braid, or a row 
 of tent stitch, on the right side, over the stitches, is a pretty finish. 
 In setting on the band, the plaits must be placed opposite each 
 other, so as to meet in the middle. You may line the band with 
 buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if you please. 
 
 APRON FOR A YOUNG PERSON. Clear muslin is the best ma- 
 terial. Hem round with a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep ; lay 
 all round, within the hem, a shawl bordering, not quite so broad 
 as the hem. Of course, the latter must be taken off before wash- 
 ing. 
 
 A MORNING APRON. This may be made like the last, but in- 
 stead of the shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem 
 by a deep crimped frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in 
 use, is jacconet or cambric muslin : the frill, of lawn or cambric, 
 which you please. 
 
 GIRL'S APRON. Use any material that is deemed advisable. 
 The bib is to be made to fit the wearer, in front, between the 
 shoulders, and sloping to the waist. The apron is to be gathered, 
 or plaited to the band ; and the shoulder straps may be of the same 
 material, or of ribbon. The bib, either plain or ornamented, with 
 tucks or folds, as may be deemed most suitable. 
 
 BATHING GOWN. The materials employed are various, flan- 
 nels, stuff, or calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free in- 
 gress to the water. The length must be determined by the height
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 41 
 
 of the wearer, and the width at the bottom should be about fif- 
 teen nails. It should be folded as you would a pinafore, and to be 
 sloped three and three-quarters nails for the shoulder. The slits 
 for the arm-holes must be three nails and three-quarters long, and 
 the sleeves are to be set in plain : the length of the latter is not 
 material. It is useful to have a slit of three inches, in front of 
 each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom, and to 
 be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight 
 with strings ; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the 
 arm or wrist, in a similar manner. 
 
 BUSTLES. These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit 
 neat upon the person. They are made the width of the material, 
 and eight nails deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make 
 two flounces ; one four nails and a half and the other three and a- 
 half deep. A case, to admit of tapes, is to be made one nail from 
 the top, and the bottom of each flounce is to have a thick cord 
 hemmed into it. When worn, the article is turned inside out. The 
 materials are strong jean, or calico. 
 
 CAPS. These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the 
 materials are as various as the purposes to which the article is ap- 
 plied. Muslins of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and colico, ore 
 all in request ; and the borders are extremely various. Muslin, 
 net, or lace, being those most in common use. The shapes are so 
 multifarious, as to preclude us from giving any specific directions. 
 Every lady must choose her own pattern, as best suits the purpose 
 she has in view. The patterns should be cut in paper, and con- 
 siderable care is requisite, in cutting out, not to waste the material. 
 A little careful practice will soon make this department familiar to 
 the expert votaress of the needle. 
 
 CHILD'S COLLAR. This is made of double Irish linen, and is
 
 42 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 stitched round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally 
 attached to them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper 
 for children, of eight or nine years of age. 
 
 CRAVATS. These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape 
 of a half handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, 
 and should be cut from muslin, eighteen nails square. 
 
 CLOCKS. These useful and necessary articles of dress are gen- 
 erally made up by a dress-maker ; it is unnecessary therefore to 
 give particular directions concerning them. The materials are silks 
 and stuffs, of almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, 
 real and imitation shawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now 
 very generally used. Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger 
 material, and are trimmed in a much plainer style than those used 
 in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look well with velvet collars, 
 and are also frequently, trimmed with the same material. Merino, 
 and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or velvet, and lined 
 with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly plain. The 
 lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color, or else 
 a well-chosen contrast ; and care should be taken, that the color 
 should be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. An 
 attention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage 
 to the lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining 
 elegance of appearance with durability of wear, and economy of 
 price. 
 
 FRILLS. These are used as ornaments, or a finish to various 
 articles of dress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c., 
 and the manner in which they are made is various. Sometimes 
 they are set on quite plain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up 
 into neat folds, to the width required. At other times, frills are 
 fitted to a band, and the edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 43 
 
 rolling it over a bobbin ; it is put on as an ornament to a gown, 
 and is tied with strings at the end. Crimped frills are worn by 
 young children, and look extremely neat. They are made of lawn 
 or cambric, and sewed on to a band. The other edge is hemmed, 
 and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band should 
 be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as 
 possible. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S BELTS. These are worn by persons who have 
 much and violent exercise, and are extremely useful. They are 
 made of strong jean or other material, and sometimes of leather, 
 and may either be made straight, or a little slant, or peaked. Run- 
 ners of cotton are inserted, to make them more strong, and they 
 must be furnished with long straps of webbing at the ends, sewed 
 on with leather over them. The straps are about three inches in 
 depth. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S COLLARS. These are very generally worn, and 
 are shaped in a variety of ways. They are made double, and orna- 
 mented with a single or double row of back stitch. They are made 
 to button round the neck, or are set on to a band for that purpose. 
 It is best to cut the pattern in paper, and when a good fit is ob- 
 tained, cut the cloth by the paper model. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S FRONTS. The material is fine lawn or cambric. 
 Sometimes the sides are composed of the former, and the middle of 
 the latter. A false hem is made down the middle, furnished with 
 buttons, as if to open ; the neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, 
 and is plaited or gathered into a stock or band. In order that it 
 may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck gussets are introduced. 
 
 LADIES' DRAWERS. Choose any proper material, and form the 
 article by making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the 
 waist. Set on a plain or worked frill at the bottom. When set-
 
 44 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 ting the legs on to the band, place them so as to overlap each other. 
 The band is eleven nails long, and three deep. 
 
 LADIES' FLANNEL WAISTCOAT. This is, in many cases, an in- 
 dispensable article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you 
 must take a piece of flannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, fold- 
 ing it exactly in the middle. At two nails from the front, which is 
 doubled, the arm holes must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the 
 back. The front is to be slightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut 
 a slit of three nails, immediately under the arm holes ; insert a gore 
 three nails broad, and the same in length, and terminating in a point. 
 Bosom-gores are also to be introduced of a similar shape, and just 
 half the size. They are to be put in just one nail from the shoulder- 
 strap. In making the waistcoat, it is to be herring-boned all round, 
 as are also all the gores and slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, 
 is laid down each side of the front, in which the button holes are 
 made, and buttons set on; the shoulder-straps are of tape, and the 
 waistcoat fastens in front 
 
 A.DIES' NIGHT JACKETS. The materials are various, including 
 lawn, linen, and calico. The jackets are made of two breadths, 
 and as it is desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two 
 breadths should be cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the 
 middle. The neck is to be slit open, leaving three nails on each 
 side for the shoulders ; and a slit is also to be made in front, so as 
 to allow the garment to pass freely over the head of the wearer ; 
 the sides are then to be seamed up, leaving proper slits for the 
 arm holes ; and the neck and bosom are to be hemmed as neatly 
 as possible. The sleeves are to be made the required length, and 
 gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into the arm 
 holes mentioned above. A neat frill round the neck, bosom, and 
 wrist?, finishes the whole.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 45 
 
 NIGHT GOWNS. These must be made of a size suitable for the 
 wearer. The following are directions for three different sizes. 
 The length of the gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for 
 the first size, one yard and six nails for the second, and one yard 
 and three nails for the third ; the width of the material is eighteen, 
 sixteen, and fourteen nails, respectively ; and the garment is to 
 have one yard and a half breadth in width. They are to he crossed 
 so as to be at the bottom twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: 
 and at the top, fifteen, fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may 
 require. The length of the sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, 
 and the width half a breadth ; they are to be furnished with gus- 
 sets, three, two, and two nails square, and with wristbands of the 
 proper width, and of any depth that is deemed desirable. 
 
 A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each 
 sleeve, which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with 
 a collar about three nails deep, and of the length required by the 
 wearer ; and, in order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of 
 two, one, and one nail square, are to be introduced. A slit of 
 about six nails is made in front, which is hemmed round, and the 
 space left for the shoulders is three, two and a-half and two nails, 
 respectively. The whole is finished with a neat frill round the 
 collar and wristbands. If economy is an object, cut three gowns 
 together. This will prevent much waste of material ; an object, 
 by every head of a family, to be constantly kept in view. 
 
 NECK AND POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS. These are made of a 
 great variety of materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. 
 The neck handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hem- 
 med all round. It is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, 
 as it makes it more strong and durable. A tape is set on, which 
 comes 'round the waist, and ties in front. Sometimes a broad
 
 46 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 muslin hem is put on the two straight sides, which looks extremely 
 well. Some ladies work a border to their neck handkerchief, 
 which gives to those made of net the appearance of lace. Pocket 
 handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a worked 
 border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those 
 of ladies. 
 
 PETTICOATS (FLANNEL). These are not only useful, but indis- 
 pensable articles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is most 
 durable, and keeps its color best in washing. The length of the 
 petticoat is regulated by the height of the person for whom it is 
 intended ; and the width ranges from three breadths to one and 
 a-half. The bottom is hemmed with a broad hem ; and the top 
 is gathered, and set on to a strong band of calico, or jean, leaving 
 the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button hole is made, about 
 two nails from the ends of the band, to which strings of tape are 
 attached ; these are passed through the opposite holes, and the 
 parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle, which 
 makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of about 
 four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound 
 with a strong binding. 
 
 PETTICOATS are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, 
 and also to make the gown hang more gracefully upon the per- 
 Bon. They should have three or three and a-half breadths of the 
 material in the width, and the bottom is made with a broad hem 
 three nails deep, or with tucks or worked muslin. The latter is 
 extremely neat. They are to be set on to a strong band, or stock, 
 and are to have a slit left at the back about four nails in length. 
 The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only at the back and 
 front, leaving the sides plain ; sometimes all the fulness is thrown 
 to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the petticoat, is
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 47 
 
 a great advantage ; but they are unnecessary if a waist, or body 
 with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case the body 
 should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. The band 
 is generally about one nail in breadth. The materials proper for 
 petticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca, 
 stuff, &c. What are called middle, or under petticoats, are made 
 in the same manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable prac- 
 tice of nursing their own infants, and who wear petticoats with 
 bodies to them, have them open in front. 
 
 PINAFORE. This is a useful article of dress, especially in large 
 families. Holland is the best material. For an open one, one 
 breadth is sufficient. Double the pinafore into four, and cut the 
 arm holes to the required depth in the two side folds, so that half 
 will form the front. The neck is to be hollowed out about a 
 quarter of a nail in the middle, and the pinafore is to be set on to 
 the neck band, which fastens by a button behind. Sleeve lappets 
 are attached to the arm holes, being gathered near the edge, and set 
 on before the arm hole is hemmed, so that when the edge is turned 
 down no stitches will appear. The lappet is a second time to be 
 gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as possible. Then 
 hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk braid that 
 will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is an 
 advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round 
 the waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is 
 most to be preferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Hol- 
 land, or other material, will be required. It is seamed up at the 
 sides, leaving slits for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; 
 as also a band to go round the middle of the wearer. Neck gus- 
 sets may be introduced, but the much neater way is, to double the 
 pinafore into four, and let in apiece at each shoulder, about a nail
 
 48 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 wide, and two nails in length, gathering each quarter from the arm 
 holes, into the pieces so let in, and felling similar pieces on the in- 
 side of the shoulder. The two middle quarters are to be gathered 
 into half the collar, and the back in the same manner. The 
 sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gathered into 
 the arm holes. A slit is made at the hands, and the bottom is 
 gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth. 
 
 POCKETS. These are made of any kind of material you please. 
 You take a piece of double, and cut it to the shape required. 
 Stitch the two pieces neatly round, a little distance from the edge. 
 Then turn it, and let the seam be well flattened, and back stitch 
 with white silk a quarter of an inch from the edge ; cut a slit down 
 about four nails, which is to be either hemmed, or have a tape 
 laid round it on the inside. Set on the strings, and the pocket is 
 complete. Some ladies have pockets attached to the petticoat. 
 In that case, it is only a square of calico, about ten nails long, and 
 eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, as plain as pos- 
 sible. 
 
 A RIBBON SCARF. This is made of broad satin ribbon, and must 
 not be less than two nails and a half wide : its length is two yards 
 and three quarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong, 
 side, and run in a slanting direction so as to cause it to fall grace- 
 fully on the neck. The ends are to be embroidered and ornamented 
 with braid, or left plain, as may suit the fancy. The scarf is to 
 be surrounded by an edging of swan's down. This is an elegant 
 article of female attire. 
 
 PLAIN SCARF This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, 
 and two yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a 
 broad hem so as to admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a 
 neat and finished appearance.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 4J) 
 
 AN INDIAN SCARF. This is an elegant article of dress and can 
 be easily made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors 
 are required : that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You 
 must have the scarf four nails and a half in width, and one yard 
 and six nails in length : this must be black. Then you must have 
 of the other two colors, pieces seven nails long, and the same width 
 as the black, and you are, after finding the exact middle of the black 
 stripe, to slope off one nail and a half toward each side, and then 
 slope one end of the blue and of the scarlet piece, so as to make 
 them accord precisely with the ends of the black previously pre- 
 pared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the middle to the 
 ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet stripes down 
 the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the other, as 
 accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together are to be 
 sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to 
 make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces fast 
 together, and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You 
 finish by laying a neat silk gimp all round and over all the join- 
 ings. It should be of a clear, bright color. The ends are to be 
 fringed with scarlet and blue, to correspond with the two half 
 stripes. This is suitable for a walking dress, or an evening party. 
 
 A DRESS SHAWL. Take a half square of one yard and twelve 
 nails of satin velvet or plush, which you please, and line it with 
 sarcenet either white, or colored ; trim the two straight edges with 
 a hem of either silk or satin, from one to one nail and a half in 
 breadth, and cut crossway. Or you may trim it with fur, lace, or 
 fringe. 
 
 CASHMERE SHAWL. You will require for the centre a piece of 
 colored Cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hem- 
 med round with a narrow hem. You must then take four stripes 

 
 50 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 all of Cashmere, or of a shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast 
 well with the centre, which must be hemmed on both sides, and 
 then sewed on, so as that the stitches may appear as little as possi- 
 ble. The border should be three nails broad, and of course joined 
 point to point at the corners ; and it must be so set on as that the 
 two corners shall fall properly over each other. The shawl is 
 finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimes by a colored 
 gimp laid on over the joinings. 
 
 A LADY'S WALKING SHAWX. This may be made of cloth, me- 
 rino, or silk ; and either a Avhole, or half square, at pleasure. The 
 dimensions are one yard and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. 
 In order that when the shawl is doubled the hems of both folds 
 may appear at the same time, care must be taken, after laying on 
 the border on two successive sides, to turn the shawl, and then lay 
 on the remainder of the border. The trimmings for these kind of 
 shawls are of great variety. 
 
 A TRAVELLING SHAWL. This is easily made, and is very warm 
 and convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it corner- 
 ways ; cover it with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please. 
 
 MOURNING SHAWLS. These may be made either of half a 
 square of black silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper 
 for deep mourning, or you may take half a square of rich and 
 rather dull black silk, and border it with a hem of crape, two nails 
 deep, laid on upon the two straight sides of the shawl. 
 
 SHIFTS. These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. 
 They are made either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the 
 neatest method. Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, 
 and gores are cut off a given width at the bottom, and extending to 
 a point, in order to widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you 
 first sew the long seams ; then you double it in a slanting direction,
 
 :. .' /" 
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 51 
 
 BO as to mark off at the top and bottom ten nails at opposite cor- 
 ners ; this done, you join the narrow ends together, and sew 
 the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit for the aim holes. There 
 are various methods of cutting the back and bosom. Some cut 
 out a scollop both before and behind ; but in this case, the back is 
 hollowed out one third less than the front." Some ladies hollow 
 out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut 
 either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. An- 
 other meth d of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder- 
 straps separate from the shift, and making the top quite straight ; 
 bosom gores are then let in, in front j the top is hemmed both be- 
 fore and behind, and a frill gives a neat finish to the whole. The 
 sleeves may be either set in plain or full, as suits the taste of the 
 wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and gusset are all in one piece ; at 
 other times they are separate. In all cases, great care should be 
 taken in cutting out, rfot to waste the material. For this purpose 
 it is always advisable to cut out several at one time. Shifts for 
 young children of from five to ten years of age, are generally made 
 with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly the neatest 
 shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed with 
 a broad hem. 
 
 SHIRTS. These are generally made of linen; but calico is also 
 made use of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the 
 occupation and station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, 
 if cut with care, make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. 
 In cutting, you must take a shirt of the required dimensions, as a 
 pattern ; and, by it, measure the length of several bodies, not cut- 
 ting any but the last. Then cut off the other bodies ; and from 
 the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders, gussets, &c., measuring 
 by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars, &c., must be fitted,
 
 52 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits the person for 
 whom the articles are intended. 
 
 In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the 
 front flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off 
 the spaces for the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the 
 seams. The bosom-siit is five nails, and three nails is the space 
 left for the shoulders. The space for the neck Avill be nine nails. 
 One breadth of the cloth makes the sleeves, and the length is from 
 nine to ten nails. The collar, and the wristbands, are made to fit 
 the neck and wrists, and the breadths are so various, that no gen- 
 eral rule can be given. You make the binders, or linings, about 
 twelve nails in length, and three in breadth ; and the sleeve gus- 
 sets are three ^ the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one; and 
 the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches, in- 
 troduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated ac- 
 cording to the taste of the niaker, or the wearer. 
 
 Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only 
 they are larger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind 
 of linen which is called shirting- width. Where a smaller size is 
 required, a long strip will cut off from the width, which will be 
 found useful for binders, wristbands, &c. 
 
 VEILS. These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain 
 or worked, as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are gen- 
 erally of lace : mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet- 
 black is to be preferred, as it wears much better than the kind 
 termed blue-black. Colored veils look well with a satin ribbon of 
 the same color, about a nail deep, put on as a hem all round. 
 For white ones, a ribbon of alight color is preferable, as it makes 
 a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is hemmed round ; that 
 at the bottom being something broader than the rest. All veils
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 53 
 
 have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are frequently fur- 
 nished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the wearer to 
 obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second string 
 round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes from 
 the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of 
 a cool and refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled 
 all round the bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall 
 more gracefully. It is advisable to take them up a little at the 
 ears, so as not to leave them the full depth : without this precau- 
 tion, they are liable to appear unsightly and slovenly.
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF HOrSE Li. 
 
 BED-ROOM LINEN. This includes quilts, blankets, sheets, pil- 
 low covers, towels, table covers, and pincushion covers. 
 
 QUILTS. These are of various sizes and qualities, in accordance 
 with the purposes to which they are to be applied. They are 
 generally made of the outside material and the lining, (wadding or 
 flannel being laid between,) and stitched in diamonds or other de- 
 vices. The stitches must pass through the whole, and the edges 
 of the quilt are to be secured by a binding proper for the purpose. 
 They are best done in a frame. 
 
 BLANKETS. These are bought ready prepared for use. It is 
 sometimes advisable to work over the edges at the end, which 
 should be done with scarlet worsted in a very wide kind of but- 
 ton-hole stitch. 
 
 SHEETS. These are made of fine linen, coarse linen, and calico. 
 Linen sheets are in general to be preferred. The seam up the 
 middle must be sewed as neat as possible, and the ends may 
 either be hemmed or seamed : the latter is the preferable method. 
 Sheets, and all bed-room linen, should be marked and numbered. 
 To add the date of the year is also an advantage. 
 
 PILLOW COVERS. These are made of fine or coarse linen, and
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 55 
 
 sometimes of calico. The material should be of such a width as 
 to correspond with the length of the pillow. One yard and three 
 nails, doubled and seamed up, is the proper size. One end is 
 seamed up, and the other hemmed with a broad hem, and furnished 
 with strings or buttons, as is deemed most convenient. We think 
 the preferable way of making pillow covers is to procure a mate- 
 rial of a sufficient width when doubled, to admit the pillow. The 
 selvages are then sewn together, and the ends seamed and hem- 
 med, as before directed. Bolster covers are made in nearly the 
 same manner, only a round patch is let into one end, and a tape 
 slot is run into the other, 
 
 TOWELS. Towels are made of a diaper or huckaback, of a 
 quality adapted to the uses to which they are applicable. They 
 should be one yard long, and about ten or twelve nails wide. The 
 best are bought single, and are fringed at the ends. Others are 
 neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a tape loop attached to them, 
 by which they can be suspended against a wall. 
 
 DRESSING TABLE COVERS. These maybe made of any material 
 that is proper for the purpose. Fine diaper generally, but some- 
 times dimity and muslin are employed, or the table is covered with 
 a kind of Marseilles quilting which is prepared expressly for the 
 purpose. Sometimes the covers are merely hemmed round, but 
 they look much neater if fringed, or bordered with a moderately 
 full frill. Sometimes a worked border is set on. All depends 
 upon taste and fancy. A neat and genteel appearance in accor- 
 dance with the furniture of the apartment, should be especially 
 regarded. 
 
 PINCUSHION COVERS. A large pincushion, having two covers 
 belonging to it, should belong to each toilet table. The covers are 
 merely a bag into which the cushion is slipped. They may be 

 
 56 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 either worked or plain, and should have small tassels at each cor- 
 ner, and a frill or fringe all round. 
 
 TABLE LINEN. This department of plain needlework comprises 
 table cloths, dinner napkins, and large and small tray napkins. 
 
 TABLE CLOTHS. These may be purchased either singly or cut 
 from the piece. In the latter case, the ends should be hemmed as 
 neatly as possible. 
 
 DINNER NAPKINS. These are of various materials ; if cut from 
 the piece, they must be hemmed at the ends the same as table 
 cloths. Large and small tray napkins, and knife-box cloths, are 
 made in the same manner. The hemming of all these should be 
 extremely neat. It is a pretty and light employment for very 
 young ladies ; and in this way habits of neatness and usefulness 
 may be formed, which will be found very beneficial in after life. 
 
 PANTRY LINEN. In this department you will have to prepare 
 pantry cloths, dresser cloths, plate basket cloths, china, glass, and 
 lamp cloths, and aprons. Pantry knife-cloths should be of a 
 strong and durable material. The dresser cloths, or covers, look 
 neat and are useful. They are generally made of huckaback of 
 moderate fineness ; but some ladies prefer making them of a 
 
 coarser kind of damask. The plate basket cloth is a kind of bag, 
 * t> 3 
 
 which is put into the plate basket to prevent the side from becom- 
 ing greased or discolored. They are made of linen, which is well 
 fitted to the sides, and a piece the size and shape of the bottom of 
 the basket, is neatly seamed in. The sides are made to hang over 
 the basket, and are drawn round the rim by a tape, run into a slit 
 for that purpose. China cloths, and also glass cloths, are to be 
 made of fine soft linen, or diaper ; and the cloths used in cleaning 
 lamps, &c. , must be of flannel, linen, or silk. All these articles are 
 to be made in the same manner, that is, hemmed neatly at the ends ;
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 57 
 
 or if there be no selvages, or but indifferent ones, all round. Noth 
 ing looks more slovenly than ragged or unhemmed cloths, which 
 are for domestic use. Little girls of the humbler classes might be 
 employed by the more affluent, in making up those articles and a 
 suitable remuneration be given them. They would thus become 
 more sensible of the value of time, and would contract habits of 
 industry, which would be of essential service to them in the more 
 advanced stages of their progress through life. A fair price paid 
 for work done, either by a child or an adult, is far preferable to 
 what is called charity. It at once promotes industry, and encour- 
 ages a spirit of honest independence, which is far removed from 
 unbecoming pride, as it is from mean and sneaking servility. Be- 
 nevolence is the peculiar glory of woman ; and we hope that all 
 our fair readers will ever bear in mind, that real benevolence will 
 seek to enable the objects of its regard to secure their due share of 
 the comforts of life, by the honest employment of those gifts and 
 talents, with which Providence may have endowed them. 
 
 HOUSEMAID AND KITCHEN LINEN. The next subject to which 
 the attention of the votress of plain needlework ought to be di- 
 rected, is the preparation of housemaid and kitchen linen. On 
 these subjects, a very few general observations will be all that is 
 necessary. In the housemaid's department, paint cloths, old and 
 soft, and chamber-bottle cloths, fine and soft, are to be provided. 
 To these must be added, dusters, flannels for scouring, and chamber 
 bucket cloths, which last should be of a kind and color different 
 from any thing else. All these must be neatly hemmed and run, 
 or seamed, if necessary. Nothing in a well directed family should 
 bear the impress of neglect, or be suffered to assume an untidy ap- 
 pearance. Clothes bags of different sizes, should also be pro- 
 vided, of two yards in length, and either one breadth doubled, in
 
 58 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BO;:K. 
 
 which case only one seam will be required ; or of two breadths, 
 which makes the bag more suitable for large articles of clothing. 
 These bags are to seamed up neatly at the bottom, and to hare 
 strings which will draw, run in at the top. The best material is 
 canvas, or good, strong unbleached linen. In the kitchen depart- 
 ment, you will require both table and dresser cloths ; which should 
 be made as neat as possible. Long towels, of good linen, and of 
 a sufficient length, should be made, to hang on rollers ; they are 
 generally a full breadth, so that hemming the sides is unnecessary. 
 They should be two yards long, when doubled, and the ends 
 should be secured strongly and neatly together. If the selvage is 
 bad, the best way is to hem it at once. Kitchen dusters, tea cloths, 
 and knife cloths, may be made of any suitable material ; but in all 
 cases let the edges be turned down, and neatly sewed or overcast. 
 
 PUDDING CLOTH. This should be made of coarse linen, neatly 
 hemmed round, furnished with strings of strong tape, and marked. 
 
 JELLY BAG. This is made of a half square, doubled so as to 
 still form a half square. The top must be hemmed, and be fur- 
 nished with three loops, by which it is to be suspended from the 
 frame when in use. 
 
 Some miscellaneous instructions, which could not otherwise be 
 introduced, are to be found in the concluding chapter.
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 PLAIN NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 BINDING. Various kinds of work have binding set on to them 
 in preference to hemming them, or working them in herring-bone 
 stitch. Flannel is generally bound ; sometimes with a thin tape, 
 made for that purpose, and called " flannel binding." It is also 
 common to bind flannel with sarcenet ribbon. The binding is so 
 put on, as to show but little over the edge on the right side, where 
 it is hemmed down neatly ; on the other side, it is run on with 
 small stitches. 
 
 BRAIDING. Silk braid looks pretty, and is used for a variety of 
 purposes. In putting it on, it is best to sew it with silk drawn out 
 of the braid, as it is a better match, and the stitches will be less 
 perceived. 
 
 MARKING. It is of essential importance that cloths should be 
 marked and numbered. This is often done with ink, but as some 
 persons like to mark with silk, we shall describe the stitch. Two 
 threads are to be taken each way of the cloth, and the needle must 
 be passed three ways, in order that the stitch may be complete. 
 The first is aslant from the person, toward the right hand ; the 
 second is downward, toward you : and the third is the reverse of 
 the first, that is, aslant from you toward the left hand. The needle
 
 60 LADIES' WORK TABLE BOOK. 
 
 is to be brought out at the corner of the stitch, nearest to that you 
 are about to make. The shapes of the letters or figures can be 
 learnt from an inspection of any common sampler. 
 
 PIPING. This is much used in ornamenting children's and other 
 dresses. It is made by inclosing a cord, of the proper thickness, 
 in a stripe of silk, cut the cross-way, and must be put on as evenly 
 as possible. 
 
 PLAITING. The plaits must be as even as it is possible to place 
 them, one against another. In double plaiting they lie both ways, 
 and meet in the middle 
 
 TUCKS. These require to be made even. You should have the 
 breadth of the tuck, and also the space between each, notched on 
 a card. They look the best run on with small and regular stitches. 
 You must be careful to take a back-stitch constantly, as you 
 proceed. 
 
 MAKING BUTTONS. Cover the wire with a piece of calico, or 
 other material of the proper size ; turn in the corners neatly, and 
 work round the wire in button-hole stitch ; work the centre like a 
 star 
 
 Some may think that we have been too minute ; but we were 
 desirous to omit nothing that could be generally useful ; and we 
 have had regard also to those ladies who, having been under no 
 necessity of practising plain needlework in their earlier years, are 
 desirous of preparing articles for their humbler fellow creatures, 
 or by the sale of which, they procure more ample supplies for the 
 funds of charity. We have good reason to believe, that many well- 
 disposed persons would be glad, in this way, to aid the cause of 
 humanity and to devote a portion of their leisure hours to the 
 augmenting of the resources of benevolence but they are destitute 
 of the practical experience necessary to enable them to do so. To
 
 LA OIKS' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 61 
 
 all such, \ve hope our little manual will be an acceptable offering, 
 and enable them, by a judicious employment of the means and tal- 
 ents committed to their trust, to realize the truth of the saying of 
 the wise man, " There is that scattereth and yet increaseth." 
 
 In order to render the elementary stitches of fancy needle-work 
 as easy of acquirement as possible, we subjoin the following dia 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 11 
 
 12 
 
 13 
 
 14 
 
 15 
 
 16 
 
 17 
 
 18 
 
 19 
 
 20 
 
 21 
 
 22 
 
 23 
 
 24 
 
 25 
 
 26 
 
 27 
 
 28 
 
 29 
 
 30 
 
 31 
 
 32 
 
 33 
 
 34 
 
 35 
 
 36 
 
 37 
 
 38 
 
 39 
 
 40 
 
 41 
 
 42 
 
 43 
 
 44 
 
 45 
 
 46 
 
 47 
 
 48 
 
 49 
 
 50 
 
 51 
 
 52 
 
 53 
 
 54 
 
 55 
 
 56 
 
 57 
 
 58 
 
 59 
 
 60 
 
 61 
 
 62 
 
 63 
 
 64 
 
 65 
 
 66 
 
 67 
 
 68 
 
 69 
 
 70 
 
 71 
 
 72 
 
 73 
 
 74 
 
 75 
 
 76 
 
 77 
 
 78 
 
 79 
 
 80 
 
 81 
 
 82 
 
 83 
 
 84 
 
 85 
 
 86 
 
 87 
 
 88 
 
 89 
 
 90 
 
 91 
 
 92 
 
 93 
 
 94 
 
 95 
 
 96 
 
 97 
 
 98 
 
 99 
 
 100 
 
 101 
 
 102 
 
 103 
 
 104 
 
 105 
 
 106 
 
 107 
 
 108 
 
 109 
 
 110 
 
 111 
 
 112 
 
 113 
 
 114 
 
 115 
 
 116 
 
 117 
 
 118 
 
 119 
 
 120 
 
 gium ; any lady will thus be able to form the various stitches, by 
 simply taking a piece of canvas, and counting the corresponding 
 number of threads, necessary to form a square like the diagram ;
 
 62 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 .she will perceive the lines represent the threads of the canvas, the 
 squares numbered being the holes formed by the intersection of 
 the threads ; and following the directions given in the accompany- 
 ing chapter, she will soon be able to work any patterns here ex- 
 hibited, and such new ones as her inventive genius may lead her 
 to design.
 
 CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 
 
 THE Art of Fancy Needlework is closely allied to the sister 
 ones of Painting and Design ; and appears to have been well un- 
 derstood amongst the most polished nations of antiquity. We 
 know that the art was practised with considerable success, by the 
 Babylonians, Egyptians, Persians, and Arabians, as well as by the 
 Greeks and Romans. The Jews brought the art of needlework 
 with them, out of Egypt, as we learn from the directions for build- 
 ing the Tabernacle, and preparing the holy garments ; and Sidon is 
 celebrated for the rich wares of broidered cloths, in which part of 
 her extensive traffic consisted. In more modern times, we find 
 the fair hands of the ladies of Europe employed in depicting the 
 events of history, in tapestry, of which the much celebrated Ba- 
 yeux tapestry supposed to have been wrought by Matilda, the 
 beloved wife of William the Norman detailing the various oc- 
 currences in the life of Harold, from his arrival in Normandy, to 
 the fatal battle of Hastings, is a standing proof. Ladies of high 
 rank employed themselves thus, for various purposes, previous to 
 the reformation ; and it is a fact, worthy of especial notice, that 
 in those ages, when it has been required for the adornment of the
 
 64 LADIES' WORK-TARLE BOOK. 
 
 temples, and the encouragement of honorable valor and has thus 
 become associated with the sanctifying influences of religion and 
 manly virtue, it has flourished most.* Queen Adelicia, wife of 
 Henry I. ; Ann, queen of France ; Catherine, of Aiagon ; Lady 
 Jane Grey ; Mary Queen of Scots ; and Queen Elizabeth, all ex- 
 celled in this delightful art. At the Reformation, or soon after that 
 event, needlework began sensibly to decline, and continued to do 
 so, until the commencement of the present century. At that time, 
 a new and elevated development of mind began to appear, which 
 was accompanied by a very visible advancement in every depart- 
 ment of arts and sciences. This revival of the fine arts, like the 
 mental and sacred gushing forth of mind, which gave it birth, wa? 
 often in extremely bad taste ; but as the latter becomes more purified 
 and exalted, the former advances in improvement mind asserts 
 its superiority over matter, and infuses into the useful and orna- 
 mental, a living spirit of moral affection and enlightened sentiment. 
 The year 1800 gave to the world, the celebrated Berlin patterns ; 
 but it was not until a lapse of thirty years, that their merits became 
 generally appreciated ; but now, such is the perfection attained in 
 the cultivation of the art of needlework, that some of its produc- 
 tions, for delicacy and expression, may almost bear comparison 
 with painting in oil, 
 
 TENT STITCH. Work the cross way of the canvas, bringing 
 your needle up through the diagram, 
 No. 2 down 1 1 , one stitch ; up 3 down 
 12, up 4 down 13, and so continue 
 to the end. This stitch is proper for grounding, and for groups 
 of flowers ; but in the latter case, it will produce the best effect if 
 
 * The presentation of an embroidered scarf was a common mark of approval in 
 the ages of chivalry.
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 65 
 
 Ihe flowers are done in tent stitch, and the grounding in tent cross 
 stitch (which is the same as tent stitch, only crossed.) 
 
 CROSS STITCH Is the same as marking stitch ; bring your nee- 
 dle up 21 down 3, up 23 down 1, one stitch, up 
 41 down 23, up 43 down 21, and so continue till 
 your work is finished. All the stitches must in- 
 cline to the right, or the work will appear imper- 
 fect and unsightly. 
 
 DOUBLE CROSS STITCH. This is a stich very easy of execution. 
 Bring your needle up No. 41, over four 
 threads, down 5, up 1 down 45, up 43 
 down 25, up 3 down 25, up 3 down 21, 
 up 43 down 21, one stitch. Four, six, or 
 eight threads may be taken in depth, and 
 
 two in width, according as taste may suggest. This is an admi- 
 rable stitch for large pieces of work. Gold thread introduced be- 
 tween each row is a desirable addition to its attractive beauty. 
 STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH. This is a new invention, and has a 
 pjetty appearance. Bring your needle up No. 11 
 down 13, up 2 down 22, one stitch ; up 31 down 
 33, up 22 down 42, and so on in like manner, till 
 the work is finished. 
 DOUBLE STRAIGHT CROSS STITCH. Bring your needle up No. 
 3 down 43, up 21 down 25, up 14 down 32, 
 up 12 down 34, one stitch. Owing to the 
 number of times the wool is crossed, each 
 stitch has a very bead-like appearance. A 
 piece wholly worked in this, has an admirable 
 effect.
 
 66 
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 GOBELIN STITCH. This truly beautiful stitch is especially cal- 
 culated for working on canvas traced with flow- 
 ers, leaves, &c. ; and also for working designs, 
 copied from oil paintings. Bring your needle 
 up No. 2 down 21, one stitch, up 3 down 22, 
 up 4 down 23, and so on to the end of the row. The stitches 
 may be taken either in height or width, as may best accord with 
 the taste, or with the subject represented. 
 
 BASKET STITCH. This is the same as Irish stitch, but the 
 arrangment is different. Work three stitches 
 over two threads ; these are called short stitch- 
 es ; and then the long ones are formed by work- 
 ing three over six threads, the centre of which 
 are the two on which the short stitches were 
 worked. Thus you must continue the short and long stitches al- 
 ternately, until you have finished the row. In the next, the long 
 stitches must come under the short ones ; and this diversity must 
 be kept up until all the rows are completed. To finish the pat- 
 tern, you have only to run a loose film of wool under the long 
 stitches on each of the short ones, and the task is done. 
 
 IRISH STITCH. This is the production of an Irish lady of high 
 rank. Bring your needle up No. 1 over four 
 threads down 41, one stitch back two threads, 
 up 22 down 62, up 43 (observe this is in a line 
 with 41) down 83, up 64 (in a line with 62) 
 down 104, up 102 down 62, up 81 down 41, 
 continuing thus over the square. The spaces 
 
 left between every other stitch must be filled up with half stitches ; 
 
 for instance, up 81 down 101, up 83 down 103. It is also some-
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 67 
 
 times worked covering six and eight threads of the canvas at a 
 time, coming back three or four threads, in the same proportion as 
 the directions given. This stitch is proper for grounding, when 
 the design is worked in tent or cross stitch ; and the effect would 
 be heightened by two strongly contrasted shades of the same color 
 It can be applied to a great variety of devices, diamonds and van- 
 dykes for example, and many others which will suggest them- 
 selves to the fair votaries of this delightful art. It looks pretty, 
 and is easy of execution. 
 
 FEATHER STITCH. This, as its name implies, has a light and 
 feathery appearance, and will be found proper 
 for any work in which lightness should pre- 
 dominate. You must proceed as in tent stitch, 
 and work over twelve threads or less, but not 
 more ; then bring your needle out one thread 
 below, and cross on each side of your straight 
 stitch : you must so continue, taking care to drop a thread in height 
 and keeping the bottom even with the long stitch with which you 
 began. Thus proceed until you have ten threads on the cross, 
 which will make a square : of course you must, in the same man- 
 ner, form all the squares necessary to complete the row. You 
 can vary the pattern considerably by making the edges irregular, 
 which is done by lowering your slant stitches., the first one two, 
 and the next one thread, and so proceeding. This will, in our 
 opinion, improve the appearance of the work. You can intro- 
 duce as many shades as ycu please, only taking care that a pro- 
 per contrast is duly preserved. You finish by stitching up the 
 centre of each row on a single thread. For this purpose, silk or 
 gold thread may be introduced with advantage. It should be re- 
 marked, that each row must be worked the contrary way to the
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 one that preceded it, so that the wide and narrow portions may 
 meet and blend with each other. 
 
 POINT STITCH. To work this stitch, take four threads straight 
 way of the canvas, and hring the needle 
 three steps up, and so proceed until your 
 point is of a sufficient depth. This stitch 
 looks pretty, worked in different and well 
 contrasted shades, and may he applied to 
 many useful and ornamental purposes. 
 
 QUEEN STITCH. Work over four threads in height and two in 
 width, crossing from right to left, and back 
 again. Finish each row by a stitch across, 
 between them, taking a thread of each, and, of 
 course, working upon two threads. This is a 
 very neat stitch. 
 QUEEN'S VANDYKE. This is supposed to be the invention of 
 Princess Clementina, one of the daughters, we 
 believe of a king of France. Take twelve 
 threads, and reduce two each stitch, until the 
 length and breadth are in conformity. It can 
 be introduced into a variety of work, and looks well. 
 
 SINGLE PLAIT STITCH. Pass the needle across the canvas 
 through two threads, from right to left ; you then 
 cross four threads downward, and pass the needle 
 as before ; then cross upward over two threads 
 aslant, and again pass over four threads, always 
 working downward, and passing the needle from 
 right to left, across two threads, until the row is completed as far 
 as you desire.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 69 
 
 DOUBLE PLAIT STITCH. This stitch is from left to right across 
 four threads aslant downward, and crossed from 
 right to left, the needle passing out at the left, in the 
 middle of the four threads just crossed, and so con- 
 tinue working downward, until you have finished 
 the pattern. 
 
 VELVET STITCH. This is a combination of cross stitch and 
 queen stitch, and is very ornamental when properly done. You 
 work in plain cross stitch three rows, then leave three threads, and 
 again work three rows as before ; thus proceed until your canvas 
 is covered, leaving three threads between every triple row of cross 
 stitch. Then across the rows work in queen stitch with double 
 wool ; but instead of taking two distinct threads for each stitch, 
 you may take one thread of the preceding stitch ; this will give 
 an added thickness to your work. It will be advisable to work 
 the wool over slips of card or parchment, as doing so will make 
 it better to cut. If you work it in squares, they should not be 
 larger than seventeen stitches ; and to look well, they must each 
 be placed the contrary way to the other. 
 
 ALGERINE WORK. This work much resembles a Venetian car- 
 pet, but is finer ; it looks best done in very small patterns. It is 
 worked over cotton piping cord, the straight way of the corners ; 
 the stitches are over three threads. Your work as in raised work, 
 putting the colors in as you come to them, and counting three 
 stitches in width, as one stitch when you are working Berlin pat- 
 tern. The paper canvas is No. 45 and the cord No. 00. It is 
 proper for table mats and other thick kinds of work. 
 
 To FILL UP CORNERS. Work in any stitch you prefer and 
 shade in accordance with the subject. In these, and ornamental
 
 70 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 borders, &c., there is much room for the development of taste and 
 judgment. In all that, you undertake, it will be well for you to 
 recollect, that nothing is lost by taking time to think. However 
 trivial and unimportant our actions may be, they should always 
 be preceded by mature deliberation. A habit of thought once es- 
 tablished will remain through life, and protect its possessor from 
 the countless miseries of rash actions, and the agonies of remorse 
 and unavailable repentance
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF PATTERNS. 
 
 THE BEAUFORT STAR. This is a beautiful pattern, and will 
 look well, as a centre, for any mod- 
 erately-sized piece of work. Begin 
 on the width of the canvas, and take 
 twelve threads, reducing at every 
 stitch, one thread for six rows, and 
 thus continue decreasing and increas- 
 increasing alternately, to form squares 
 like diamonds, to the end of the row. 
 The next row is performed in the same manner, only you work 
 on the long way of the canvas. Introduce gold or silver thread 
 between where the stitches join, and so finish. 
 
 CHESS PATTERN. Work a square in cross stitch, with three 
 stitches, making three of a dark shade and six of 
 white, working as many squares as you require, 
 and leaving spaces equal to those occupied by 
 cross stitch, which you must fill up with Irish 
 stitch, working across the canvas. You can em- 
 ploy any color that will harmonize well with the cross stitch; and
 
 72 
 
 LADIES' WORK-TARLE BOOK. 
 
 to complete the pattern, you must work a single stitch across each 
 square, in Irish stitch. 
 
 DICE PATTERN. This is formed by working rows of eight 
 stitches, in any color you please. You must here have four shades, 
 and work two stitches in each shade. Commence a stitch, ovei 
 ten threads, and drop one each time, until you have taken eight 
 stitches ; the intermediate spaces are for the ground, which must 
 contrast with the*pattern ; and the introduction of a little gold or 
 silver thread, would be an inprovement. 
 
 DOUBLE DIAMOND, IN LONG STITCH. This pattern, when it is 
 worked in two colors strongly 
 contrasted, and the diamonds 
 composed of beads, is exceed- 
 ingly beautiful. The shades of 
 scarlet and blue, on a white or 
 black ground, produce the most 
 agreeable effect. 
 
 GERMAN PATTERN. There is a Gothic grandeur and sobriety 
 about this pattern which gives to it a no- 
 ble and grave aspect. It is worked in 
 Irish stitch, six threads straight down the 
 second row, falling about four stitches 
 below the first; the third, the same below 
 the second ; the fourth and fifth the same 
 number below the third; the next three 
 the same ; and then six in the same pro- 
 portion. You then increase, and so ren- 
 der the arch uniform. The pattern then looks like the head of a 
 Gothic column reversed ; and the centre should be so disposed as
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 73 
 
 to produce the best effect : those for the first and last row must be 
 of the same tint ; and the same rule applies to all the rest. A 
 lady can, of course, choose her own colors ; but care must be had 
 to blend the alternate light and dark shades so as to produce a 
 natural harmony. 
 
 IRISH DIAMOND. This ia beautiful, and is very easy of execu- 
 tion. Commence with two threads, and 
 increase to fourteen, working across the 
 canvas, and increasing one thread each 
 way; then decrease to two in the same 
 manner; and so proceed, until the row 
 is completed. Begin the next row two 
 threads down the canvas, and place a gold 
 or steel bead in the centre of each diamond. 
 Finish with a bordering of gold twist, or mother of pearl. 
 
 LACK. This is a new invention, and is somewhat difficult of 
 execution. The recognized material is a 
 black Chantilly silk. It is mostly worked 
 from Berlin patterns, and may be done either 
 in cross stitch, or in straight stitch pattern : 
 the edge is finished in cross stitch with wool. 
 You may imitate a pearl border, by taking 
 two threads directly behind the border. It is 
 used for sofa pillows, &c., to which it forms a very pretty termin- 
 ation indeed. 
 
 HEART PATTERN. This pattern looks well. Pass the wool 
 over ten threads in the centre, then make four additional stitches 
 of ten threads, dropping one each time from the top, and taking 
 one up at the bottom ; then take the sixth stitch, dropping a thread
 
 74 
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK* 
 
 at the top as beiore, but keeping the bottom even with the fifth 
 stitch ; your seventh stitch must be in six threads, decreasing two 
 both at the top and bottom ; and your last will be on two threads, 
 worked in the same manner: then proceed to form the other half 
 of the pattern. The hearts may be worked in various shades of 
 the same color, and the space between them is to filled up with a 
 diamond, or with an ornament in gold twist, or pearl. 
 
 PRINCESS ROYAL. Work this in rows of stitches over four and 
 two threads alternately, leaving one thread between 
 each stitch : begin the next row two threads down, 
 with a stitch over two threads, and proceed as before. 
 Work in two strongly contrasted shades, and fill in 
 the vacancies with gold or pearl beads. 
 
 ROMAN PATTERN. The material to be used, in working the 
 pattern, is purse twist; and the grounding may be done in gobelin 
 or tent stitch. The pattern is to be worked in three shades, of the 
 same color ; the centre forming a diamond in the lightest shade, 
 then the next, and lastly the darkest to form a broad outline. 
 This kind of work is done quickly, and presents a rich appearance. 
 RUSSIAN PATTERN. This is worked in rows across the canvas, 
 in stitches of irregular lengths, and has a pleas- 
 ing effect. Pass the first stitch over sixteen 
 threads, the second over twelve, the third over 
 sixteen, and so proceed to the seventh row, 
 which is the centre. Pass the stitch over 
 eighteen threads, and proceed as before for six 
 rows ; leave a space of four threads, and commence as at first. 
 Form the second row in the same manner, leaving four threads 
 between the longest stitches in each row: the rows may be
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 7 r 
 
 worked in any number of shades, taking care to preserve uni- 
 formity, and the spaces must be filled in with a diamond, worked 
 in the same manner, but reduced in size, and in one color ; or it 
 may be worked in gold thread, which would greatly relieve the 
 monotonous appearance of the pattern. It will be best to begin 
 and finish each row with a half diamond. 
 VICTORIA PATTERN. Pass the wool or silk for the centre stitch 
 over six threads, the next over five, and so 
 proceed to the corner, which will be on one 
 thread; the other side must be done in a 
 different shade, but the same color, and the 
 shades of each must be turned alternately 
 the opposite way. The corner stitch should 
 be of some brilliant colored silk, if not of 
 gold thread : the top of one square will be the bottom of another, 
 and you work the three stitches between the corners in black or 
 dark wool. The squares must be filled in with long stitch, work- 
 ing from corner t corner, across the canvas. 
 
 WAVE PATTERN. These are extremely beautiful, when worked 
 in four or five shades. They are done in Irish stitch, and the 
 rows must be worked close together, the wool is passed over six 
 threads, and the rows dropped a few threads below each other, so 
 as to form a wave. The pattern maybe varied almost infinitely; 
 the following forms a beautiful specimen : work six rows of any 
 length you choose, dropping one stitch at the top and adding one 
 to the bottom of each row ; then proceed upwards, for six rows, 
 and you will obtain a beautiful pointed wave, the seventh row 
 forming the centre ; then work nine rows, of which the first, third, 
 fifth seventh, and ninth, must be level with the second row of the
 
 76 
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 pointed wave ; and the second, fourth, sixth, and eight, must be 
 on a level with the first and last rows, while the first, third, fifth, 
 seventh, and ninth, must drop two stitches, so as to produce 
 an irregular edge ; then work a pointed wave, as before, and the 
 pattern is complete 
 
 WINDSOR PATTERN. In working this pattern, you must count 
 eight threads down the canvas, and then increase 
 one each way, until you have twelve, so as to 
 form a diamond of six sides. The second row 
 must be begun with twelve threads, so as to join 
 the longest stitch in the former row. When each 
 row is finished, the intersectional diamonds must 
 be filled in ; which may be done either in silk or gold thread, and 
 has ane xtremly neat appearance.
 
 SUGGESTIONS AS TO PATTERNS. 
 
 FOR bottle-stand, or any small piece of work, star patterns are 
 very beautiful. The materials proper for working them, are silk 
 and wool, with gold or any other kind of beads, and gold thread 
 or twist. For foundations, you may use either velvet or silk 
 canvas. 
 
 Small sprigs are pretty, for work that is not too large ; chenille 
 is proper for the flowers, and the stalks and leaves look best in 
 silk ; a few gold beads add to the effect. 
 
 For large pieces of work, medallion patterns are much used, 
 and produce a good impression on the eye ; the outline is to be 
 traced in brilliant silk, and for the centre employ two shades of 
 the same color, working half in each shade ; the medallion should 
 be placed upon a white field, and the whole grounded in a dark 
 color, which harmonizes well with the design of the pattern. 
 
 Bags may .be worked in a variety of ways, to suit taste and 
 convenience. The border is often made to resemble black lace, 
 and when properly executed, looks extremely well. The parts 
 filled up, should be worked in black floss or black wool. Leaves 
 may be worked with gold twist, or beads may be employed. The 
 grounding should be in fine twisted silk : any color may be used. 
 In other cases, white wool, white silk, silver and glass beads, 
 and several other materials are in requisition ; so that here is am- 
 ple scope for classification and arrangement. A mourning bag
 
 78 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 looks well done to imitate lace, worked in black floss silk, and 
 ornamented with black glass and silver beads, disposed in a taste- 
 ful and ornamental style. Sometimes a bag is worked as a shield 
 of four squares ; in such a case, two squares should be worked in 
 feather stitch, and the others in any stitch that will form a pleas- 
 ing contrast : the border should be a simple, but elegant lace 
 pattern. 
 
 For braces and bracelets, any small border pattern may be 
 adopted. They should be worked in two colors, highly contrasted, 
 for bracelets : gold twist round the edge is a great addition. 
 
 These suggestions in reference to patterns, might have been 
 greatly extended ; but we wish every young lady to draw upon 
 the resources of her own mind, and to think for herself. To one, 
 who is desirous to excel, we have said enough ; a little thought 
 will enable her to apply the general principles, here laid down, 
 to any particular case ; and, without the employment of the think- 
 ing faculty, the most minute instructions, in this or any other art, 
 would fail in producing their intended effects.
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS IN EMBROIDERY. 
 
 EMBROIDERY WITH SILK. The materials used as founda- 
 tions, are various, embracing silk, satin, cloth, and velvet ; and 
 the silk employed in working is purse silk, deckers, half twist, 
 and floss ; but floss is most in request. 
 
 Embroidery should always be worked in a frame, as it cannot 
 be done well on the hand, except in very small pieces. The 
 same careful attention to shades, before recommended, is necessary 
 here ; for small flowers two or three shades are sufficient ; but in 
 roses and others, that are large, five shades are in general required; 
 the darker shades should be worked into the centre of the flower, 
 (and it is often advisable to work them in French knots,)* and 
 thence proceed with the lighter, until you come to the lightest, 
 which forms the outline. The pattern must be correctly drawn 
 upon the material, and in working leaves you must begin with the 
 points, working in the lighter shades first, and veining with a 
 shade more dark : you may soften the blending, by working each 
 shade up, between the stitches of the preceding shade. Three, 
 
 This applies especially to the working of dahlias : begin with the centre knot 
 nnd work round it as many as ore required.
 
 80 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 or at most four shades, are sufficient for the leaves : the introduc- 
 tion of more would injure the effect. 
 
 CHENILLE EMBROIDERY Is very beautiful for screens, &c., 
 but must not be used for any work that is liable to pressure. 
 Choose a needle as large as can be conveniently used, and be 
 careful not to have the lengths of chenille too long, as it is apt to 
 get rough in the working. For flowers, it is necessary that the 
 shades should not be too near. The chenille must pass through 
 the material freely, so as not to draw it. It looks well done in 
 velvet, with occasional introductions of gold and silver thread. 
 
 RAISED EMBROIDERY. Draw the pattern on the material as 
 before. Work the flowers, &c., to the height required, in soft 
 cotton, taking care that the centre is much higher than the edges. 
 A careful study of natuie is indispensable to the attainment of ex- 
 cellence in this kind of work. Pursue the same method with your 
 colors, as in flat embroidery, only working them much closer. 
 The most striking effect is produced when the flowers or animals 
 are raised, and leaves in flat embroidery. Much in this, as in 
 every department of this charming art, must depend upon the taste 
 and judgment correct or otherwise of the fair artist. A servile 
 cppyist will never attain to excellence. 
 
 EMBROIDERY IN WOOL. This is proper for any large piece of 
 work. The rales for shading embroidery with silk apply here ; 
 only the work must not be quite so thick on the material ; care 
 must also be taken to bring the wool through on the right side, as 
 near as possible to where it passes through, in order that none 
 may appear on the wrong side, which would occasion much trou- 
 ble in drawing it, even when removed from the frame. When 
 finished, and while in the frame, it will be proper to damp the 
 back with a little isinglass water, and press with a warm iron on
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 81 
 
 the wrong side. This kind of work is appropriate for the orna- 
 menting of various articles of dress, on which, when judiciously 
 placed, it has a pleasing effect. 
 
 PATTERNS. This is a part of fancy needlework to which too 
 much attention cannot be paid, but it is one much neglected. We 
 want to see native genius developed, and we are convinced that 
 many a fair one could increase our stock of patterns, with new 
 and surprising conceptions, if she could but be-induced to make 
 the trial. To draw patterns for embroidery or braid work, get a 
 piece of cartridge paper, and having drawn out the design, trace it 
 off upon tissue paper, or which is better, a tracing paper, properly 
 prepared ; after which you will find it easy to pierce it through 
 with a piercer, taking care not to run one hole into another. Lay 
 the paper so prepared upon the material which you intend to work, 
 and dust it with a pounce bag, so that the powder may go through 
 the holes ; the paper must then be carefully removed, and if the 
 material be dark, take a camel's hair pencil, and paint the marks 
 with a mixture of white lead and gum water ; or if you prefer it, 
 you can trace the marks left by the pounce, with a black-lead 
 pencil, but the other methods are preferable. A little practice and 
 perseverence will enable you to became tolerably proficient in this 
 department, and confer upon you the further advantage of aiding 
 you in acquiring those habits of untiring diligence, which are so 
 essential to the attainment of any object. Ever recollect, that any- 
 thing worth doing at all, is worth doing well.
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 PREPARATION OF FRAMES. 
 
 THIS is a subject which must be carefully attended to, or much 
 unnecessary trouble will be incurred in consequence. 
 
 To DRESS A FRAME FOR CROSS STITCH. The canvas must 
 be hemmed neatly round : then count your threads, and place the 
 centre one exactly in the middle of the frame. The canvas must 
 be drawn as tight as the screws or pegs will permit ; and if too 
 long, should be wrapped round the poles with tissue paper, to keep 
 it from dust and the friction of the arms, as that is essential to the 
 beauty of the work. It must in all cases be rolled under, or it 
 will occasion much trouble in the working. When placed quite 
 even in the frame, secure by fine twine passed over the stretchers, 
 and through the canvas very closely; both sides must be tight- 
 ened gradually, or it will draw to one side, and the work will be 
 spoiled. 
 
 To DRESS A FRAME FOR CLOTH WORK. Stretch your cloth 
 in the frame as tight as possible, the right side uppermost. 
 
 The canvas on which you intend to work, must be of a size to 
 correspond with the pattern, and must be placed exactly in the 
 centre of the cloth, to which it is to be secured as smooth as pos- 
 sible. When the work is finished the can* r as must be cut, and
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 83 
 
 the threads drawn out, first one and then the other. It is neces- 
 sary to be especially careful in working, not to split the threads, 
 as that would prevent them drawing, and would spoil the appear- 
 ance of the work. In all cases, it is advisable to place the cloth 
 so as that the nap may go downward. In working bouquets of 
 flowers, this rule is indispensable. 
 
 The patterns for cloth work should be light and open. It looks 
 well for sofas, arm chairs, &c., but is by no means so durable as 
 work done with wool, entirely on canvas. 
 
 To DRESS A FRAME FOR TENT STITCH. Prepare the frame, and 
 brace the canvas as for cross stitch, only not quite even, but inclin- 
 ing the contrary way to that in which you slant your stitch. This 
 is necessary, as tent stitch always twists a little. This method 
 will cause the work, when taken out of the frame, to appear toler- 
 ably straight. Should it after all be crooked, it should be nailed 
 at the edges to a square board, and the work may then be pulled 
 even by the threads so as to become perfectly straight. The back 
 of the work should then be slightly brushed over with isinglass 
 water, taking care not to let the liquid come through to the right 
 side. A sheet of paper must be placed between the work and the 
 board, and when nearly dry, another must be laid upon it, and the 
 whole ironed with a warm iron, not too hot, or the brilliancy of 
 the colors will be destroyed. 
 
 Some persons use flour instead of isinglass, but it is highly im- 
 proper, and should never be restored to. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING. 
 
 ARMORIAL BEARINGS. Work the arms and crest in silk, as bril- 
 liancy is the thing here principally required. It will be proper that
 
 84 LADIES' wonK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 the scroll should be worked in wool. The contrast will have a 
 pleasing effect 
 
 APPLIQUE. This is a very beautiful kind of work. The mate- 
 rial may be either silk, or cloth, or any other fabric which may be 
 preferred. Upon this foundation, pieces of satin, velvet, &c., are 
 to be carefully tacked down; the pattern, leaves, flowers, &c., must 
 then be drawn, both on the foundation, and the materials of which 
 they are to be formed ; after which, they must be cut out and sewed 
 on in the neatest manner possible. They are then to be braided 
 with ther own colors round the edges ; you must also braid the ten- 
 drils and the veins of leaves ; work the centre of leaves in a long 
 slitch, and the kind of silk called purse silk, and after braiding 
 the centre of flowers if single work over them with French 
 knots, made by twining the silk twice round the needle, and pass- 
 ing it through the material. This kind of work, as covers for 
 tables chairs, &c., is very elegant, and has a good effect. 
 
 BEAD WORK. Use the canvas called bolting ; and work two 
 threads each way on the slant, with china silk, taking especial care 
 that the beads are all turned the same way, that the whole may 
 appear uniform. Work the pattern with thick beads and ground 
 with transparent ones. You must, in this kind of work, have as 
 few shades as possible. 
 
 BRAID WORK. Trace the pattern in the material, and proceed 
 with the various shades, from the outline or lightest, to the darkest, 
 till the whole is completed. In this work only two shades are 
 for leaves, and three for flowers ; make the points as sharp as 
 possible, and in turning the points, work one stitch up close to the 
 point where you turn the braid, and another immediately afterwards 
 to keep it in its place. Vein the leaves in a bouquet with purse silk 
 use gold braid in finishing as taste may direct ; and in fastening
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 85 
 
 draw the braid through the material. The best instrument for this 
 purpose is a chenille needle. In braid work and applique, only 
 one stitch must be taken at a time, or else the work will appear 
 puckered. 
 
 BRACES. Work in silk canvas three inches broad, in silk or 
 wool, in any pattern you prefer. 
 
 GEM, OR SET PATTERNS. For this kind of work, ground in 
 black or dark wool, and work the patterns in silks, as distinct and 
 bright as possible, and with the utmost variety of colors. The 
 beauty of these productions of the needle, depends chiefly upon 
 their brilliant and gem-like appearance. 
 
 GOBELIN. If you work in coarse canvas, adopt the same con- 
 trast of shades as you employ in cross stitch ; if the material be 
 fine, you must shade as in tent stitch. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS. To ornament the dress of a father, 
 brother, or husband, must at all times be a pleasing employment 
 for domestic affection. For dress waistcoats, embroider satin, 
 either in the form of a wreath, round the edge of the waistcoat, or 
 in small sprigs ; for morning, you may work in any pattern you 
 prefer. Patterns of the Caledonian Clans are now much admired. 
 
 LANDSCAPES. These may be rendered extremely beautiful, if 
 properly managed. The frees in front should be much lighter 
 than those seen in the back ground, and great care should be taken 
 to prevent the latter having too blue a cast, as this renders them 
 unharmonious, when contrasted with the sky. Represent water by 
 shades of a blue grey : the sky should be a serene blue, with much 
 closeness, and mingled with clouds composed of varying tints of 
 a white and a yellow drab. If mountains are seen in the distance, 
 they should be of a grey lavendar tint, and some living animal
 
 86 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 should, in nearly all cases, be introduced. The presence of a cow, 
 sheep, &c., gives lii'e and animation to the view. 
 
 MOSAIC WORK. If you work with wool, cut it into short 
 lengths, and untwist it. No wool can be procured sufficiently 
 fine for this kind of work. If you work with silk, the finest floss 
 is preferable to any other : split silk would be found extremely 
 inconvenient, and the work would not look so well. Care must 
 be taken that the shades are very distinct, or they will appear jum- 
 bled and unsightly. It will also be necessary to fasten off at every 
 shade, and not to pass from one flower to another, as in that case 
 the fastenings would become visible on the right side, and thus 
 impair the beauty of the performance. In working a landscape, 
 some recommend placing behind the canvas a painted sky, to avoid 
 the trouble of working one. As a compliance with such advice 
 would tend to foster habits ot idleness, and thus weaken the sense 
 of moral propriety which should in all we do be ever present with 
 us, as well as destroy that nice sense of honor and sincerity which 
 flies from every species of deception, \ve hope the fair votaries of 
 this delightful art will reject the suggestion with the contempt it 
 merits. 
 
 PATTERNS ON CANVAS. Employ for canvas four or five shades, 
 beginning with the darkest, and softening gradually into a lighter 
 tint, till you come to the lightest, following the distinction of con- 
 trast exhibited by the Berlin patterns. If you wish to introduce 
 silk into any part, it will be best to work it in last. Be careful 
 to avoid taking odd threads, if you work the pattern in cross stitch. 
 
 PERFORATED CARD. The needle must not be too large, or the 
 holes will be liable to get broken. The smaller ones must be 
 worked in silk : the larger patterns may be done in either silk or 
 wool. Sometimes the flowers are worked in Chenille, and the
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 87 
 
 leaves in silk ; this gives to card cases, &c., a beautiful and highly 
 ornamental appearance. 
 
 RUG BORDERING. Use a wooden mesh, grooved, an inch and 
 a quarter in width ; pass the material over the mesh, and work in 
 cross stitch : the material to be used, is what is called slacks, (a 
 kind of worsted,) which must be six or eight times doubled. You 
 must leave three threads between each row, and not more than 
 eight rows are required to complete the border. 
 
 WIRE WORK. For this work choose shades of a light in pre- 
 ference to a dark color, and work with silk. If you employ both 
 silk and wool, silk must be used for the lighter shades, or the 
 beauty of the work will be impaired. Sponge the whole before 
 commencing work.
 
 CHAPTER X 
 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 APPLICATION OF FANCY NEEDLEWORK TO USEFUL PURPOSES. 
 
 LACE. This imitation is used as an elegant finish for carriage 
 bags, sofa pillows, &c. ; and also for ladies' work bags, to which 
 it is both ornamental and becoming. 
 
 PRINCESS ROYAL. This pattern is especially proper for bags 
 or small stands. 
 
 POINT STITCH, is well adapted for working covers for hassocks, 
 as well as for bags of a considerable size 
 
 BASKET STITCH. This kind of work is very elegant for flower, 
 fiuit, or work baskets ; or any other of an ornamental character. 
 
 GERMAN PATTERN, is well adapted for slippers, as, when 
 worked, it is found to be very durable, and its appearance pecu- 
 liarly fits it for this application. 
 
 EMBROIDERY, is of almost universal application : that with 
 chenille is much used in the ornamental parts of dress, and is pro- 
 ductive of a most pleasing effect. Embroidery in wool is also 
 much in use for the same purpose. 
 
 RUG BORDERINGS. These may be considered as articles of do- 
 mestic economy ; and besides the pleasure which arises from see- 
 ing the parlor, or the side-board, adorned with the elegant produc- 
 tions of a daughter, or a sister, this kind of work is at all times.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 89 
 
 when properly executed, superior, considered merely as work, far 
 superior to any similar productions emanating from the loom. 
 
 GENTLEMEN'S WAISTCOATS AND BRACES. By being able to 
 perform this kind of work, it is at all times in the power of the 
 fair sex to offer an elegant present to a father, husband, or brother, 
 and thus to increase the hallowed pleasures of the domestic circle. 
 This reason is amply sufficient to induce our lovely countrywomen 
 to cultivate this department of fancy needlework. 
 
 WIRE- WORK. This is a lovely material for baskets, and va- 
 rious kinds of ornamental fabrications. 
 
 WORKING FIGURES. This delightful application of the needle 
 may be rendered subservient to numerous useful and interesting 
 purposes. By it the sister arts of painting and design may be ma- 
 terially promoted : the scenes of former days may be delineated 
 on the historic canvas, or the portrait of a departed friend may be 
 placed before us, as when blooming in all the living lustre of an- 
 gelic loveliness. Let this portion of the art be especially and as- 
 sidously cultivated. 
 
 ARMORIAL BEARINGS. These are proper for screens, and may 
 be made of a high moral utility, by exciting in the minds of the 
 young, an ardent desire to become acquainted with the events of 
 history, and with the actions and principles of former times. 
 
 MOSAIC WORK, AND PERFORATED CARD. These are used for 
 note books, ornamental card cases, hand screens, book marks and 
 a variety of other useful purposes. 
 
 BRAID WORK. The application of this kind of work is well 
 known, and is so general, that no particular cases need be pointed 
 out. 
 
 APPLIQUE. This is very elegant, as employed for table covers,
 
 jjM 
 
 90 LADIES' WORK TABLE BOOK. 
 
 sofas, chairs, &c. ; indeed it always looks pretty, and to whatever 
 it is applied it has a pleasing effect. 
 
 STAR PATTERNS, are proper for sofa cushions, bottle stands, 01 
 any piece of work that is small. 
 
 MKDALLION PATTERN. Where the work is coarse, or large, 
 these may be introduced with good effect ; but especial attention 
 must be paid to a proper combination of colors and shades .
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 FANCY NEEDLEWORK. 
 
 SPECIAL INSTRUCTIONS. 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS IN GROUNDING. Care must be taken in ground- 
 ing to make the effect of contrast very conspicuous. Thus, if you 
 ground in dark colors, your pattern should be worked in shades of 
 a light and lively tint; for those in which dark shades predomi- 
 nate, a light ground is indispensible. The canvas for white 
 grounding should be white ; and if for dark grounding, a striped 
 fabric is employed. The stripes will sometimes appear through the 
 wool. To prevent this it will be necessary to rub over the sur- 
 face with a little Indian ink water previous to commencing work- 
 ing, but care must be taken not to let the mixture run into the 
 edges of the work, and it must be quite diy before you commence 
 grounding. A camel's hair brush is best for this purpose. In 
 working in cross stitch, it is best to do so on the slant, working 
 from right to left across the canvas, and then back again. This 
 is preferable to crossing each stitch as you proceed, and gives an 
 improved appearance to the work. 
 
 If you work in tent stitch, work straight, or your performance 
 will be uneven when taken out of the frame. In all cases begin 
 to go round from the centre, and work outwards, taking care to 
 fasten off as you finish with each needleful, which should not be
 
 92 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 too long, as the wool is liable to get rough and soiled. It is also 
 necessary to have them irregular as to length, to prevent the fasten- 
 ings coming together which they will be apt to do if this sugges- 
 tion is not attended to. For working in tent stitch with single 
 wool, the canvas must not have more than fourteen threads to an 
 inch ; for cross stitch you must have a canvas not coarser than 
 twenty-two threads to an inch ; for the former, you will for every 
 two and a half square inches require a skein of wool ; in the lat- 
 ter case a skein will cover two inches. Following this calculation, 
 you can easily ascertain the quantity of wool required for any 
 piece of work ; and it is advisable to purchase all your wool at 
 the same time, otherwise you will have much trouble in matching 
 the shades. An attention to these instructions will soon make 
 you a proficient in the grounding department of the art. 
 
 WORKING FIGURES. This is at once one of the most difficult, 
 and at the same time one of the most pleasing tasks which the 
 votary of fancy needlework will have to perform ; they generally 
 produce the best effect when worked in wool and silk, with a ju- 
 dicious mixture of gold and silver beads. The hair and drapery 
 should be worked in cross stitch ; and the face, neck, and hands, 
 in tent stitch ; working four of the latter for one of the former. 
 To obtain the proper tints for the face, &c., is no easy task ; but it 
 mint be carefully attended to, as almost the whole beauty of the 
 work depends upon it. The shades in these parts of the figure 
 must be extremely close ; indeed upon shading of the features the 
 perfection of the performance mainly depends. The drapery also 
 demands considerable care : the shades must be very distinct, par- 
 ticularly the lighter ones in the folds of the dress; and the back 
 ground should be subdued as much as possible, that a proper 
 prominence may be given to the figure : this object will be aided
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 93 
 
 considerably by working in the lighter shades in silk : any repre- 
 sentation of water or of painted glass, should be worked in the 
 same material. The intention of the fair worker sHould be to give 
 to her performance as near an approximation to oil painting as 
 possible. 
 
 RAISED WORK. This should be done with German wool, as it 
 more nearly resembles velvet. For working flowers, you must 
 have two meshes, one-seventh of an inch in width, and the pat- 
 tern must be worked in gobelin stitch. Be careful not to take one 
 mesh out, until you have completed the next row. You work 
 across the flowers ; and in order to save an unnecessary waste of 
 time, as well as to facilitate your work, it will be best to thread 
 as many needles as you require shades, taking care not to get the 
 various shades mixed together. This is more needful, as you can- 
 not, as in cross stitch, finish one shade before commencing an- 
 other. When the pattern is worked, cut straight across each row, 
 with a pair of scissors suitable to the purpose, and shear the flower 
 into its proper form. 
 
 For working animals or birds, you must have three meshes ; 
 the, first, one quarter ; and the third, one seventh of an inch : the 
 second must be a medium between these two. You will require 
 the largest for the breast, and the upper parts of the wings. Cross 
 stitch maybe employed in working the beak, or feet, and is indeed 
 preferable. You may work leaves, either in cross stitch or in 
 gobelin stitch, as taste or fancy may direct. You may work either 
 from a drawing on canvas, or from Berlin pattern ; but the latter 
 is decidedly to be preferred. 
 
 WORKING BERLIN PATTERNS. For these patterns, it will be 
 necessary to work in canvas, of eighteen or ten threads to the inch, 
 according as you may desire the work to be a larger, or of the
 
 94 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 same size as the pattern: and, it must be borne in mind, that all tht 
 patterns are drawn for tent stitch, so that if you work in cross 
 stitch, and \visn to have it the same size as the pattern, you must 
 count twenty stitches on the canvas, for ten on the paper. The 
 choice of colors, for these patterns, is a matter of essential impor- 
 tance as the transition from shade to shade, if sudden and abrupt, 
 will entirely destroy the beauty of the design. A natural succes- 
 sion of tints, softly blending into each other, can, alone produce the 
 desired effect. In working flowers, five or six shades will be re- 
 quired : in a rose, or other large flower, six shades are almost in- 
 dispensibJe ; of these, the darkest should form the perfect centre, 
 then the next (not prominently, though perceptibly) differing from 
 it, and the next four to the lightest tint ; the whole, to be so man- 
 aged, as to give to the flower that fulness, and distinctness, which 
 its position in the design demands. For small flowers, so many 
 shades are rarely necessary. The two darkest shades should be 
 strong, the others soft; this secures sufficiency of contrast, without 
 impairing that harmony of tints, which is so indispensible. You 
 must recollect, that for work done in tent stitch, a greater contrast 
 of shade is required, than for that done in cross stitch. This re- 
 mark should never be lost sight of. A proper attention to the 
 shading of leaves, is indispensible ; the kinds of green required , 
 for this purpose, are bright grass green, for a rose ; Saxon green, 
 for lilies, convolvolus, peonies, &c.; French green, for iris, marigold, 
 narcissus, &c. ; and for poppies, tulips, &c. ; a willow green, which 
 has a rather bluer tint than French green is generally ; and for 
 leaves which stand up above the flowers, or near them, it is proper 
 to work the tips in a very light green, as reflecting the rays of 
 light : the next shade should be four times darker, or three at the 
 least ; the next two ; then the fourth shade, two darker than the
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 95 
 
 third ; and the fifth, two darker than the fourth : take care that the 
 veins of leaves be distinctly marked, and those which are in the 
 shade should be darker than those upon which the light falls ; and 
 if of a color having a bluish tint, a few worked in olive green will 
 have a fine effect. The stalks of roses, &c., should be worked in 
 olive brown or a very dark green. White flowers are often spoilt, 
 by being worked of too dark a shade ; if you do not work with 
 silk, you may obtain two distinct shades of white, by using Mo- 
 ravian cotton and white wool ; these combined with three shades 
 of light stone color the second two shades darker than the first, 
 and the third darker than the second, in the same proportions 
 will produce a beautiful white flower, which if properly shaded, 
 by leaves of the proper tints, will have a most beautiful appear- 
 ance. The lighter parts of all flowers, in Berlin patterns, may be 
 worked in silk ; and in many cases that is a decided improvement ; 
 but it should never be introduced in the leaves ; here it would be 
 out of place. We again repeat, beware of servile copying: try to 
 engage your own judgment in this work, and, remember, that to 
 become used to think and to discriminate, is one of the most valu- 
 able acquisitions that a young lady can attain. 
 
 We have now, we trust, placed before the young student of 
 fancy needlework, such plain directions, in all things essential to 
 the art, as cannot fail, if a proper degree of thought and attention is 
 bestowed upon them, to make her a proficient in this delightful 
 employment. With one or two additional remarks, we will con- 
 clude this portion of our labors. The young votary of the needle 
 must recollect that, if she allows her fondness for this accomplish- 
 ment to draw oft" her attention from the more serious or useful 
 business of life, she will act decidedly wrong and had far better 
 never learn it at all. Another thing to be especially guarded against,
 
 96 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 is, not to devote too much time to this, or any other engagement, 
 at once ; the mind and body are both injured, to a serious extent, 
 by dwelling too long on a single object. Let it never for a moment 
 be forgotten, relaxation and exercise are indispensible, if you wish 
 to enjoy good health, or an even and pleasant temper. Again, 
 take care that you never become so absorbed in the object of your 
 pursuit, as to allow it to interfere with the calls of friendship, 
 benevolence, or duty. The young lady who can forget her moral 
 and domestic duties, in the fascinations of the embroidery frame, 
 gives but little promise of excellence, in the more advanced stages 
 of life. 
 
 Let neatness, and order, characterize all your arrangements. 
 
 Cut your silks and wools into proper lengths, and fold them in 
 paper, writing the color on each, and numbering them according to 
 their shades, 1, 2, 3, &c., beginning with the darkest. 
 
 Dispose all your materials so as to come at them without trouble 
 or incovenience,and use every possible care to prevent your work 
 from being spoiled in the performance. 
 
 We advise every young lady to pay particular attention to paint- 
 ing and design ; and to render every accomplishment subservient 
 to some high and moral development of the heart, and of the 
 character. 

 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 KNITTING. 
 
 , 
 
 EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 
 
 BEFORE entering upon the immediate subject of*this chapter, we 
 wish to make a few remarks ; whiOT, we^nt, will be acceptable 
 to our fair readers. 
 
 The art of knitting is supposed to have been invented by the 
 Spanish ; and would doubtless form, in connection with needle- 
 work, an agreeable relaxation, amid the stiff formality and unvary- 
 ing mechanical movements which made up, for the most part, the 
 lives of the ancient female nobility of that peninsula. The Scotch 
 also lay claim to the invention, but we think upon no sufficient 
 authority. Knitted silk-hose were first worn in England by Henry 
 VIII., and we are told that a present of a pair of long knitted silk 
 stockings, of Spanish manufacture, was presented to the young 
 prince (Edward VI.), by Sir Thomas Gresham,and was graciously 
 received, as a gift of some importance. Clumsy and unsightly 
 cloth-hose had been previously worn : and, though we are told by 
 Howel, that Queen Elizabeth was presented with a pair of black 
 knitted silk stockings, by Mistress Montague, her silk-woman, yet 
 her maids of honor were not allowed to wear an article of dress, 
 which her royal pride deemed only suited to regal magnificence. 
 We believe the first pair of knitted stockings, ever made in Eng-
 
 98 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 land, were the production of one William Rider, an apprentice, 
 residing on London Bridge ; who, havinj^ccidentally seen a pair 
 of knitted worsted stockings, while detSHn^^ome business, at 
 the house of one of the Italian merchants, made it pair of a similar 
 kind, which he presented to the Earl of Pembroke, 1564. The 
 stocking-frame was the invention of Mr. W. Lee., M- A , who 
 had been expelled from Cambridge, for marrying, in contravention 
 to the statutes of the university. Himself and his wife, it seems, 
 were reduced to the necessity of depending upon the skill of the- 
 latter, in the art of knitting, for their subsistence ; and as necessity 
 is the parent of invention, Mr. Lee, by carefully watching the 
 motion of the needl^^vas enabled, in 1589, to invent the stocking- 
 frame ; which has ^n the soiAe of much advantage to others, 
 though there is reason to believe the contrivance was of little ser- 
 vice to the original proprietor. Since its first intoduction, knitting 
 has been applied to a vast variety of purposes, and. has been im- 
 proved to an extent almost beyond belief. It has furnished to the 
 blind, the indigent, and almost destitute Irish cottage girl, the means 
 pleasure and profit at the same time. Many ladies, including some 
 in the rank of royalty, have employed their hours of leisure in 
 the fabrication of articles, the produce of which have gone to the 
 funds of charity, and have tendered to the alleviation of at least 
 some of 
 
 " The numerous ills that flesh is heir to ;" 
 
 and amongst those, the labors of the Hon. Mrs. Wingfield, upon 
 the estates of Lord de Vesci, in Ireland, ought not to be forgotten. 
 To CAST ON THE LOOPS OR STITCHES. Take the material in 
 the right hand, and twist it round the little finger, bring it under 
 the next two, and pass it over the fore finger. Then take the end 
 in the left hand, (holding the needle in the right,) wrap it round
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 99 
 
 the little finger, and thence bring it over the thumb, and round the 
 two fore fingers. By this process the young learner will find that 
 she has formed a loop : she must then bring the needle under the 
 lower thread of the material, and above that which is over the fore 
 finger of the right hand under the needle, which must be brought 
 down through the loop, and the thread which is in the left hand, 
 being drawn tight, completes the operation. This process must 
 be lepeatea as many times as there are stitches cast on. 
 
 KNITTING STITCH. The needle must be put through the cast- 
 on stitch, and the material turned over it, which is to be taken up, 
 and the under loop, or stitch, is to be let off. This is called plain 
 stitch, and is to be continued until one round is completed. 
 
 PEARL STITCH Called also seam, ribbed, and turn stitch, is 
 formed by knitting with the material- before the needle ; and in- 
 stead of bringing the needle over the upper thread, it is brought 
 under it. 
 
 To RIB, is to knit plain and pearled stitches alternately. ThreaAr 
 plain, and three pearled, is generally the rule. 
 
 To CAST OVER. This means bringing the material round the 
 needle, forward. 
 
 NARROWING. This is to decrease the number of stitches by 
 knitting two together, so as to form only one loop. 
 
 RAISING. This is to increase the number of stitches, and is ef- 
 fected by knitting one stitch as usual, and then omitting to slip 
 out the left hand needle, and to pass the material forward and form 
 a second stitch, puttuig the needle under the stitch. Care must 
 be taken to put the thread back when the additional stitch is fin- 
 ished. 
 
 To SEAM. Knit a pearl stitch every alternate row. 
 
 A Row, means the stitches from one end of the needle to the
 
 100 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 other ; and a ROUND, the whole of the stitches on two, three, or 
 more needles. NOTK, in cas tingon a stocking, there must always 
 be an odd stitch cast on for the seam. 
 
 To BRING THE THREAD FORWARD, means to pass it between 
 the needles toward the person of the operator. 
 
 A LOOP STITCH, is made by passing the thread before the 
 needle. In knitting the succeeding loop, it will take its proper 
 place. 
 
 A SLIP STITCH, is made by passing it from one needle to an- 
 other without knitting it. 
 
 To FASTEN ON. This term refers to fastening the end of the 
 material, when it is necessary to do so during the progress of the 
 work. The best way is to place the two ends contrarywise to 
 each other, and knit a few stitches with both. 
 
 To CAST OFF. This is done by knitting two stitches, passing 
 the first over the second, and so proceeding to the last stitch, which 
 kis to be made secure by passing thread through it. 
 
 WELTS, are rounds of alternate plain and ribbed stitches, done 
 at the top of stockings, and are designed to prevent their twisting 
 or curling up. 
 
 Sometimes knitting is done in rows of plain and pearl stitches, 
 or in a variety of neat and fanciful patterns. Scarcely any kind 
 of work is susceptible of so much variety, or can be applied to so 
 many ornamental fabrics or uses in domestic economy. The fair 
 votary of this art must be careful neither to knit too tight or too 
 loose. A medium, which will soon be acquired by care and prac- 
 tice, is the best, and shows the various kinds of work to the best 
 advantage. The young lady should take care to preserve her 
 needles entirely free from rust, and to handle the materials of her 
 work with as delicate a touch as possible.
 
 LADIES 5 ^ WORK-TABLE BOOK. 101 
 
 Having thus given instructions in the common rudiments of this 
 useful art, we proceed to give plain directions for some of the most 
 beautiful. 
 
 FANCY STITCHES IN KNITTIN0. 
 
 BEE'S STITCH. In knitting a purse in this stitch, you must 
 cast the loops on three needles, having twenty on each. The 
 two first rows in plain knitting. The third is thus worked. 
 Having brought the silk in front, a stitch is to be slipped, and you 
 knit the next, pulling the one you slipped over it; you knit the 
 next, and the succeeding one is pearled ; proceed in this manner 
 for one round. The next round you knit plain ; the next is to be 
 executed like the third. Proceed thus in alternate rounds, and 
 you can introduce two colors, highly contrasted, knitting six or 
 eight rounds of each. 
 
 BERLIN WIRE STITCH. The stitches cast on must be an even 
 number. Knit three, four, or five plain rows. Then begin the 
 work by taking off the first stitch, knit one stitch, knit off tv/o 
 stitches together, and make a stitch; repeat this process to the 
 end of the row ; the next row is to be knitted plain, and so on 
 alternately. 
 
 This work may be done either with large pins and lamb's wool, 
 if it be intended for shawls, &c., or with fine needles and thread, 
 in which case it forms a beautiful kind of insertion work for frocks, 
 capes, collars, and other articles of dress. If it is intended for in- 
 sertion work, the number of stitches cast on are eight, and one 
 pattern is formed by each four stitches. 
 
 COMMON PLAIT. This is employed for muffatees, coverlets, 
 and various other articles. You cast on the stitches in threes : 

 
 102 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 the number is unlimited. Knit one row plain, then proceed as fol- 
 lows. Row first, three plain stitches and three pearled. Second 
 row the same, taking care to begin where the last is finished, that 
 is, if you ended with plain stitches, you begin with the pearled. 
 Proceed in the same way with the third row, and you will have 
 a succession of squares, of inside and outside knitting, alternately. 
 The fourth row is to be begun with the same kind of stitches as 
 completed the first row ; continue as before, and the work will be 
 in squares, like those of a chess board. This stitch is extremely 
 pretty. 
 
 CHAIN STITCH. The number of loops to be cast on is thirteen. 
 Knit the first two rows plain, and in beginning the third, knit three 
 plain stitches, and bring the material in front, then pearl seven 
 stitches ; the material is then to be turned back, and you knit the 
 other three stiches plain. The next row is plain knitting, and 
 then you proceed as in the third row, and so on alternately, until 
 you have completed sixteen rows. You then knit three stitches 
 plain, and take off the four succeeding ones upon a spare pin. 
 The next three stitches from behind the pin, are to be knitted so 
 as to miss it completely, and the mateiial is to be drawn so tight, 
 as that tbe pins may be connected together as closely as possible. 
 This done you knit the four stitches of the third pin, which com- 
 pletes the twist The remaining three stitches are then to be knit- 
 ted, and a fresh link begun, by knitting three stitches, pearling 
 seven, knitting three, and so proceeding for sixteen rows, when 
 another twist is to be made. 
 
 CROW'S-FOOT STITCH. This stitch may be worked in two 
 ways. If it be for a shawl, begin at the corner, and raise at the 
 beginning and end of each row. 
 
 In the other method, you cast on any number of stitches that
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 103 
 
 can be divided by three, and you must cast on one additional for 
 the commencement. You knit the first row plain and then pro- 
 ceed according to the following directions : First, knit a stitch. 
 Second, make a stitch. Third, slip the next. Fourth, knit two 
 stitches together. Fifth, put the stitch you slipped over the two 
 last knitted ; this is to be repeated, with the exception of the first 
 knitted stitch, to the end of the row. The next row is composed 
 entirely of pearled stitches. This stitch is neat and elegant. 
 
 DOUBLE KNITTING. Of this stitch there are three kinds, now 
 in general use. In executing them proceed as follows. Having 
 cast on any even number of stitches, knit a few rows in plain 
 knitting ; then, for the double stitch, begin the row by knitting a 
 stitch, and pass the material in front, between the knitting pins. 
 Then a stitch is to be taken off, being careful to put the needle in- 
 side the loop, and to pass the material back again. You then knit 
 another stitch, and so proceed to the end of the row. 
 
 For the second kind of double knitting, you cast on an even 
 number of stitches, as before, and the first stitch is knitted plain ; 
 the material being put twice over the pin. Then, as in the first 
 kind, pass the material between the needles ; a stitch is to be^ slip- 
 ped, and the material passed again behind. This process is re- 
 peated in every stitch to the end of the row. In the next row, 
 you reverse the work, knitting the stitches that were before slip- 
 ped, and slipping the knitted ones. The third kind is very simple, 
 and can be done quicker than the others. It is worked on the 
 wrong side, and when completed must be turned inside out ; hence 
 it is necessary to knit plain at the sides or ends. The number of 
 stitches must be even, as in the previous methods No plain row 
 is needed ; but you commence by putting the material in front of 
 the pins, and being careful to keep it constantly in that position.
 
 104 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 Turn the first stitch, take off the second, and so on alternately, till 
 the row is finished. 
 
 DUTCH COMMON KNITTING. This is the common knitting stitch, 
 performed in a more expeditious manner than that in general prac- 
 tised. The needle filled with stitches, is held in the left hand, and 
 the material also, which is to be wrapped round the little finger once 
 or twice. It passes to the needles over the fore finger. To form 
 the loop on the needle held in the right hand, it is only necessary 
 to put it into the stitch from behind, and knit off by putting the 
 material round the needle. 
 
 EMBOSSED DIAMOND. You cast on any number of stitches 
 which can be divided by seven. The first row is plain : for the 
 second, pearl one stitch, knit five, and pearl two ; thus proceed, al- 
 ternately, to complete the row : for the third, knit two, pearl three, 
 and knit four, and so proceed. The fourth row you pearl three, 
 knit one, and pearl six, alternately. The fifth row is plain knitting. 
 The next row you pearl two, knit two, pearl five, and so on to the 
 end. Next knit two, pearl four and knit three, alternately. Next 
 knit six, and pearl one, successively. Reverse the next, pearling 
 six, and knitting one. Then in the succeeding row, knit five and 
 pearl three, and knit four in succession. Next knit three, pearl 
 two, and knit five, alternately. The succeeding row is plain. 
 
 EMBOSSED HEXAGON STITCH. You can work with any number 
 of stitches, you choose, which can be divided by six. The first 
 row is plain, the next pearled throughout ; the third row is plain. 
 For the first knit four stitches, and slip two at the end ; then pearl 
 a row, taking careto slip the stitches that were slipped before. 
 Next knit a row slipping the two stitches as before. The next 
 row is pearled still slipping the two stitches. The succeeding two 
 rows are knitted and pearled like the others, and the two stitches
 
 LADIKS' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 105 
 
 are still to be slipped. The next row is pearled, and you take up 
 all the stitches; then a row is to be knitted plain, and a row pearled, 
 which completes the pattern. In beginning the next pattern, you 
 pearl a row, slipping the fifth and sixth stitches, so that they shall 
 be exactly in the centre of the previously worked pattern ; you 
 then proceed as before. 
 
 ELASTIC RIB. This as its name implies, is the proper stitch 
 for garters, or any kind of an article which is wanted to fit easily 
 yet firmly. You are to set on any number of loops you please, 
 and knit one row plain; the next is pearled, the two next are plain; 
 then one pearled, and so on alternately to the end. 
 
 FANTAIL STITCH. The application of this stitch is in the pre- 
 paration of mitts, gloves, &c., and sometimes it is used for purses, 
 in which it looks extremely pretty. The material generally em- 
 ployed is cotton, and you begin by setting on any even number of 
 stitches you require. A loop is made, by throwing the cotton over 
 the pin ; you then knit a loop, and make and knit alternately ; 
 each of the two last are knitted plain, and you narrow the com- 
 mencement and conclusion of each row, at the second and third 
 loops, until you have reduced it to the number originally cast on. 
 The usual number of stitches cast on is fourteen. 
 
 FuEiNCH STITCH. You set on the loops in lours, and must have 
 two over. The first stitch is pearled, then turn the thread back, 
 and knit two stitches together. Form a new stitch by bringing 
 the thread in front, and knit a stitch ; the thread is again to be 
 brought in front, and the last stitch pearled, which completes the 
 pattern. The next row is begun in a similar manner, the thread 
 is turned back, two stitches are knitted together at the end, the 
 thread is turned, and you knit the last stitch. 
 
 GERMAN KNITTING. You cast on twenty-one stitches, and pro-
 
 
 106 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 ceed as follows. First row, the material is to be passed forward, 
 one stitch slipped, then knit one, and pass the slipped one over; 
 three stitches are then to be knitted, and two taken as one ; again 
 pass the material forward, and knit one stitch. Second row, the 
 same, except that when in the first you knitted three stitches, knit 
 one ; and when one, you knit three. For the third row, you pass 
 the material as before, and slip one stitch, then two are taken as 
 one, and the slipped one is passed over again ; repeat this, except 
 that in taking two stitches together, you knit one, and pass the 
 slipped one over ; finish by knitting two stitches. 
 
 HONEYCOMB STITCH. This is also often used for shawls. It 
 is knitted as follows. You knit the first stitch, and pass the other 
 to make a loop over the needle. Two stitches are then knitted 
 together, and you thus continue making the loops, and kniting two 
 stitches together, until you have completed the row. You knit 
 every second row thus; the alternate ones plain. 
 
 HERRING-BONE BAG STITCH. You cast on the stitches by fours, 
 and the material used is silk. Knit two plain stitches, and then 
 make a large one, by turning the silk twice over the needle ; after 
 which, knit two stitches together, and repeat this, until you have 
 completed the work. 
 
 IMITATION NET -WORK STITCH. You set on any number of 
 stitches you please, but you must have no odd ones. The first 
 row is plain knitting. The next row you commence by bringing 
 the wool upon the first pin, and twisting it round it by bringing it 
 over from behind, and putting it behind again. You are then to 
 knit two loops together, and the pin must be put first into the one 
 nearest to you, and the wool is to be twisted round the pin as be 
 fore. Then again, knit two together, and so on to the end. Each 
 row is done in the same manner.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 107 
 
 KNIT HERRING-BONE STITCH. Any number of stitches you 
 please may be cast on, observing to have three for each pattern, 
 and one over at each end. The first row must be plain : then, in 
 beginning the second, take off the first stitch, and knit two together 
 in pearl stitch. Next make one, by passing the material before, 
 and knitting one, pearl two stitches together, and make and knit a 
 stitch as before. Every row is the same. 
 
 LACE WAVE STITCH. The number of stitches must be even. 
 The first stitch is to be slipped ; then knit one, and make one, by 
 casting the material over the pin. Narrow, by knitting two stitches 
 together, and again knit a stitch ; then make one, and again nar- 
 row ; and so on till you complete the row. The next row is done 
 plain. The third row is as follows : two stitches knitted plain ; 
 make one stitch, and narrow two in one ; then knit one stitch ; 
 make and narrow, as before to the end; then knit a row plain. 
 For the fifth row, knit three siitches plain, and thus proceed as in 
 the third row. The sixth row is done plain ; and the seventh one 
 commences by knitting four stitches plain, and then proceeding as 
 before. The eighth row is plain ; and the ninth is begun by knit- 
 ting five plain stitches, and proceed as above ; then knit two rows 
 plain, and the pattern is complete. This can be continued to any 
 length required. 
 
 Moss 1 STITCH. This is easily done. Cast on any even number 
 of loops, and for the first row, the first loop is slipped, the mate- 
 rial brought in front ; the stitch is pearled, and repeat so to the 
 end. The next row is so worked, that the stitches knit in the 
 proceeding row, must be pearled in this. 
 
 OPEN HEM. The number of stitches is unlimited, but they must 
 be capable of being divided by four. At the beginning of each row 
 you slip the first stitch, and knit the second. Then make a stitch
 
 108 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 by putting the cotton over the pin ; knit two loops together ; knit 
 one stitch, make a stitch, and so proceed. You must have very 
 fine pins and sewing cotton. 
 
 OPEN CROSS STITCH. This is done in the following manner. 
 Two colors are to be employed, and the first row of each is done 
 in pearl stitch. In working the second row of each, the follow- 
 ing is the order of procedure : first, knit a stitch : second, make a 
 stitch ; third, slip one ; fourth, two are to be knitted together, and 
 the one slipped is to be drawn over the knitted ones; thus you 
 proceed to the end of the row. The two next are to be com- 
 menced with the other color ; and thus you work two rows with 
 each color, successively. The fresh color is always to cross from 
 beneath the last one, or otherwise a hole would be left in the 
 work. In the making of shawls, this stitch is often adopted, and 
 it looks well, but, of course, requires to be bordered with some 
 other pattern. 
 
 ORNAMENTAL LADDER STITCH. The stitches are to be set on 
 in elevens. Commence by knitting two stitches plain, then knit 
 two together, and repeat the same, drawing the first loop over the 
 second ; proceed thus to the end. Commence the second row by 
 pearling two stitches ; pass the material over the pin twice ; again 
 pearl two stitches, and so proceed to the end. In the next row 
 knit two ; pass the material round the pin twice, knit two, and 
 so continue. Thus you proceed with alternate rows of knitted 
 and pettrled stitches, being careful to slip the stitches made by 
 throwing the material round the pin, without knitting them. 
 
 PINE APPLE STITCH. For a bag you must cast on thirty-six 
 loops on three needles, and proceed thus : First row, knit one 
 plain, raise one by throwing the silk over the pin, knit one plain, 
 then raise, knit two plain, you knit the next two together, driwing
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 109 
 
 the last loop over the first ; you will then have six loops. In the 
 second row, knit the first raised loop, then raise, knit the next one 
 plain, then raise, knit plain till you come to the next raising, and 
 omit knitting the two together as in the first row. Third row, you 
 knit plain to the raising, and then proceed as in the first row. You 
 knit the fourth as the second ; and so proceed alternately, until 
 you have twelve rows. Then in the stitches you had previously 
 narrowed, you must raise, and introduce a bead upon each plain 
 loop, with a thread, and again raise. Where you had previously 
 raised, you must narrow with the bead you have upon the silk. 
 In this manner proceed raising and narrowing alternately, until 
 you have twelve rows as before. You then reverse, and again 
 work as in the first part of the pattern. 
 
 PLAIN OPEN STITCH. The stitches set on must be an even 
 number. The two first rows are plain. Then commence the third 
 row, by knitting one stitch ; pass the material in front, and form 
 a new stitch, by knitting two together. This is to be repeated, 
 until you come to the last stitch, which must be knit. Then knit 
 two plain rows and proceed as before. 
 
 PORCUPINE STITCH. This is proper for a purse, and when 
 properly executed, is extremely pretty. You cast on, upon each 
 of three needles, thirty-six loops, and knit one plain round. For 
 the next, you knit four stitches : and, having brought the silk for- 
 ward, knit one loop : this will form the middle stitch cf the pat- 
 tern. Then, again bringing the silk forward, knit fourteen stitches ; 
 after which, slip one, and leaving the under part, knit two together, 
 and draw the stitches, last slipped, over it. Then knit four stitches, 
 as at the commencement, and so proceed for six rounds, increasing 
 before and after each middle stitch. You knit till within one of 
 where you decreased. The stitch thus left is to be slipped, and
 
 110 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 you then knit two together, and draw the slipped loop over it. 
 You are then to knit one plain round, and the next row is also 
 plain, except the loops which are over the middle stitches, where 
 you are to insert a head, hy cringing it through the stitches. You 
 next knit around plain, and must be careful to keep the beads on 
 the outside of the purse, or rather in the inside while knitting, as 
 this purse is done the wrong side out. You are to knit, until you 
 come within one loop of the bead', which must be slipped, and you 
 knit the next two together. You are then to increase six rounds 
 on each side of the stitch decreased as in the proceeding pattern, 
 which will make that the middle or bead stitch. The material 
 should be done in middle sized purse silk, on needles, No. 18. 
 
 ROUGH-CAST STITCH. Any odd number of stitches may be 
 cast on. Each row is begun with a plain stitch, and the others 
 are plain and pearled alternately. This is very suitable for bor- 
 ders, as it is firm and looks neat. 
 
 WAVE KNITTING. This is proper for a pin-cushion, and looks 
 extremely neat. Commence by casting on seventy-nine loops. 
 Then proceed as follows. First row, knit four loops plain, pearl 
 one, knit nine plain, and repeat to the end of the row, finishing 
 with four plain loops. Commence the second row with three 
 pearled stitches, knit three plain, pearl seven, repeat as before. 
 Third row, knit two plain, pearl five, knit five plain, repeat. 
 Fourth row, pearl one, knit seven plain, pearl three, repeat. Fifth 
 row, pearl nine, knit one plain, pearl nine, and repeat to the end. 
 This finishes the pattern.
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 KNITTING. 
 
 EXAMPLES IN KNITTINO. 
 
 A BIROCHE. The stitch is very simple. You bring the wool 
 forward, slip one, and knit two together.. This elegant cushion 
 is made up of sixteen narrow rows, and sixteen broad stripes, 
 M hich decrease gradually toward the centre. It may be made in 
 double German wool, or other material, -with No. 19 ivory or 
 wooden pins. Cast on ninety stitches, and knit two turns ; then 
 in gold color three turns, and again two in black : this forms the 
 narrow stripe. Then form the broad stripe thus : knit two stitches, 
 and turn ; then knit two of the black, and turn; this must be con- 
 tinued, taking every time two additional stitches of the black, un- 
 til you are within two stitches of the top, and then turn. You 
 will now find the wool has descsnded to the wide part of the 
 stripe. You then again commence a narrow stripe, and so go on, 
 until the whole is completed. When the last wide stripe is fin- 
 ished, knit it to the first narrow stripe, and make up the biroche 
 in any manner you please. 
 
 A BABY'S CAP. Cast on 240 stitches, on three pins ; knit 
 twelve rounds, and be sure you pearl every alternate stitch : in 
 the succeeding round you must pearl the stitches which were left 
 plain in the preceeding ones. Then take in eighty stitches, namely;
 
 112 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 one at every fourth, which will form a full border; then proceed 
 to knit the cap thus : one row plain, the next open, then three 
 plain, and twenty-four double knitting ; again knit three rows plain, 
 one open, repeat the three plain rows, again repeat the double 
 knitting, and the plain and open rows as before ; you next pro- 
 ceed to form the hinder part of the cap, by casting on twenty-four 
 stitches at each end of the pins ; knit forty-eight rows of double 
 knitting, take in to the size of the crown, and knit three rows 
 plain, one open, and repeat the three plain rows ; then fasten off 
 at top, unite the open space at the back, and repeat the plain and 
 open rows as before. You form the crown, by casting on sixteen 
 loops; then increase a loop at each end, for sixteen rows; then 
 knit sixteen, and decrease as you increased, and thus the circle 
 becomes regularly formed. 
 
 BABY'S HOOD. Use No. 18 needles, and double German wool; 
 cast on fifty stitches, and knit eighty rows plain ; roll up sixty, to 
 form the front. Three inches of the cast off part are to be sewed 
 together, and the rest is to be drawn up for the crov/n. Then 
 cast on fifty stitches to form the foundation of the hood, and knit 
 forty rows plain. Line with white silk, and trim v/ith satin 
 ribbon. 
 
 BABY'S SHOE. Work with two colors, in stripes. You cast 
 on twenty-eight stitches, in blue, and knit one row plain ; then 
 knit a plain row in white, adding one stitch at the end to form the 
 heel, and turn ; then a similar row in blue, to increase and turn, 
 repeat this without increasing, and changing the colors each time, 
 until you have ten stripes. Then knit one row in blue, and turn, 
 casting off seventeen stitches. You begin from the heel. The 
 remaining thirteen stitches are knitted with white ; turn ; knit a 
 row with blue; turn: and so continue, until you have five rows o
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 113 
 
 one color, and four of the other. The thirteen stitches are then 
 to be done in blue, and seventeen to correspond, are to be added ; 
 turn : this side is finished like the other, decreasing from the heel. 
 You then sew up the heel and toe, so as to form a shoe. You are 
 then, with four needles, to pick up the stitches round the ancle and 
 fore foot, putting an equal number upon each of the three needles, 
 and knit five rows plain ; make a stitch by bringing the wool for- 
 ward, then slip one ; knit the next two, and pass the slip-stitch 
 over them ; again bring the wool forward, and repeat the process 
 for one round: knit eighteen rows, five plain, four pearled; repeat 
 and finish, bringing the wool forward, knitting two together; then 
 knit two rows plain, and cast off. You must use No.14 needles, 
 and double German wool. 
 
 A BKAUTIFUL FRINGE AND BORDER. This can be applied to 
 a variety of useful purposes. It is executed as follows. The 
 number of stitches must be even, and of any depth you deem de- 
 sirable. Begin, by making a stitch, laying the material over the 
 needle ; put it through two loops, and knit them as one ; repeat to 
 the end of the row ; thus continue to knit as many rows as you 
 please, and when the stripe is of sufficient length, fasten off, letting 
 from four to ten stitches fall off the needle to unravel for the 
 fringe. 
 
 A COMFORTER. On a moderate sized pin, cast on forty stitches; 
 and in knitting, carry the wool twice round the pin for each stitch; 
 The comforter is to be done in double knitting, and may be finished 
 with a fringe and border at the end. Without the fringe, you will 
 require a quarter of a pound of six-thread untwisted lamb's wool ; 
 for the fringe a little more will be required. 
 
 ANOTHER COMFORTER. You are to cast on thirty stitches, and 
 knit plain sixty-four ribs, knitting them backwards and forwards ;
 
 114 LADIES' WOIIK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 then take twenty-two stitches from the middle of the side, and you 
 will have twenty-one left one each end. Form a chest-piece, by 
 knitting as before, twenty-two ribs, and fasten off: you have only 
 to sew up the end, and it is done. 
 
 ZEPHYR. This is a light shawl for a baby, and may be made 
 either of a half-handkerchief form, or a square. Cast on about 
 130 loops, and knit in French or honey-comb stitch, which you 
 like; or any other pretty pattern you prefer, as embossed hexagon, 
 &c. You may add a fringe and borber, which gives to the zephyr 
 a rich and finished appearance. 
 
 AN OVER-SHOE. These are useful to wear in th house, or to 
 slip over a satin shoe, when occasion requires. The number of 
 stitches to be cast on is thirty-four. Knit a square, plain, which 
 is to be doubled, and sewn up on one side, to the heel; then sew 
 up three inches for the instep, and form the toe by puckering in 
 the end. 
 
 A KNITTED 'MUFF, IN IMITATION OF SABLE. You cast on 
 seventy or eighty stitches. Knit the first three rows plain ; then, 
 for the fourth row, bring the wool forward, and taking two stitches 
 at the back, knit them ; repeat to the end : these four must be re- 
 peated, until the piece is about half a yard long, taking care that 
 the shading is as correct as possible. You must here use No. 19 
 needles, and double German wool. The shades required are four, 
 and you begin with the lightest, proceeding to the darkest, and then 
 reversing them. The muff must be stuffed, and lined with silk. 
 
 A STRONG KNITTED PURSE. Any number of stitches, that can 
 be divided by three, will do. First and third row : The wool is 
 to be brought forward, then slip one, knit two, and pass over them 
 the slip stitch ; repeat second and fourth row plain. Third and 
 fifth row : knit two, before commencing the pattern ; the holes
 
 LADIES' WOKK-TABLE BOOK. 115 
 
 will then fall in a diagonal direction : It will require to be well 
 stretched. 
 
 BAREGE KNITTING, FOR SHAWLS. In this kind of work, you 
 commence with any number of stitches you require : and, after 
 knitting one row plain, you begin the second, by knitting three 
 stiches ; then, bring the wool forward, and knit three together, 
 taking them off at the back ; again you bring the wool forward, 
 and knit three, as before. The third row is pearled ; and the fourth 
 is the second repeated, only beginning by knitting three stitches 
 together. Fifth row, the same as the third ; and thus proceed ^with 
 any number of rows you choose. You may introduce any patterns 
 in flowers, &c., you may desire, by breaking off the ground color, 
 and fastening on that which is designed for the pattern, by means 
 of a slip knot, made at the end of the wool. All flowers, &c., 
 must be done in plain knitting. 
 
 CHECKED PATTERNS. Any number of stitches maybe cast on, 
 that can be divided by six. Then knit the first three rows three 
 pearl stitches, and three plain ; second three rows, knit three stitches 
 plain, and three pearl. This pattern maybe worked for children's 
 socks, bags, mats, (if done in coarse materials,) &c. 
 
 CLOSE STITCH, FOR A WAISTCOAT. This is to be done in two 
 colors, and cast on any odd number of stitches. First and fifth 
 row, with one color; knit one, and slip one, in succession. Second 
 and sixth row, with the same color ; knit one, bring the wool for- 
 ward, and slip one ; pass the wool back, knit one, repeat. The 
 third is the first reversed, and the fourth is worked exactly as the 
 second, omitting the first stitch. 
 
 PINE APPLE PURSE. The material is purse twist, and you will 
 require two colors ; one skein of green, and one and a half of 
 orange. Cast on 159 stitches, and proceed as follows. Knit the
 
 116 LADIES' WORK TABLE BOOK. 
 
 first row, and turn it, then knit two rows, and again turn. To 
 have ten points you must narrow and widen alternately every 
 seven stitches. Proceed in this way with the green twist for fifteen 
 rounds ; then with the orange knit one plain row and turn, knit 
 seven rows as before, knit one plain row and turn, then reverse the 
 narrowings, so as to take up the loops at the beginning of ever? 
 row of points, and make a loop on each side : you are to have 
 eight rows of points. You make no loops in the second row, but 
 having counted when you have finished the points, you seam in 
 the first row of green and reverse the narrowings without taking 
 up the loops, proceed to knit twelve rows; after which, you must 
 narrow until you have but four loops on each pin, then knit the 
 stalks, and narrow off. 
 
 STAR, WITH EIGHT POINTS. This is proper for the bottom of 
 a bag or purse. In working it, proceed according to the following 
 directions. You work with five needles, on each of four of which 
 you cast on two stitches, eight in whole, knit one plain round. Then, 
 first row, raise, knit one, raise, knit one, and put on one bead at 
 every knitted loop. Second row, you knit a plain round. Third 
 row, laise, knit two plain, raise, two plain ; the raising is at the 
 beginning and middle of each needle ; and you thus proceed, until 
 you have fifty beads on a needle, for a bag, and eighteen for a 
 purse. To take off the points, proceed as follows : first row, raise 
 one, knit one, raise one, slip one off needle as in knitting, knit one, 
 and draw the one not knitted over it; knit plain, and put on beads 
 until you come to the middle of the needle ; thus proceed with 
 each pin, and the star will be completed. 
 
 KNEE CAPS. You commence with casting on eleven loops, and 
 knitting eight rounds ; then begin to raise every alternate round 
 until you have forty-seven loops on the pins, knit eleven rounds
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 117 
 
 i 
 
 plain, and then narrow until you have reduced the loops to eleven. 
 Takeoff! 
 
 KNITTING FOOTING. The material is fine cotton, and you cast 
 eleven stitches. Knit one row plain. Second row, knit one, make 
 one, knit two together, knit three plain, make one, knit two together 
 knit three plain. Third row, is the second row reversed ; the 
 fourth is the same as the second; and you thus proceed with each 
 row, alternately, for any length you please. A bag knitted the 
 same way, and put over blue or crimson silk, looks extremely 
 handsome. The material for a bag is fine worstedfand you may 
 cast on any number of stitches that can be divided by eleven, taking 
 care to have one additional stitch for each twenty-two ; that is, for 
 four elevens, cast on forty-six. 
 
 DOUBLE NIGHTCAP. You will find five needles are required. 
 You must cast on two stitches on each of four needles, and in the 
 first row increase two, and in the second one plain stitch in each. 
 In the third row, the centre stitch on each needle must be seamed, 
 and you must increase on each side of it every other row, until 
 you have attained the width required. You then knit the fourth 
 and every succeeding row plain, until the cap is of a sufficient 
 length, say twenty-four to twenty-eight inches, then decrease the 
 first row, and make the other end to correspond with the one first 
 knitted. 
 
 DOTTED KNITTING, FOR BABY'S SHOES, &c. Cast on and knit 
 as many rows as you desire, knitting one stitch plain, and the next 
 pearled. Begin every other row with a pearled stitch. An odd 
 number of stitches are required, and No. 8 needles. 
 
 KNITTED FRINGE. This may be made of any material deemed 
 most suitable for the purposes to which it is to be applied. Cast 
 on eight stitches. First knit two, then make one by bringing the
 
 118 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 cotton round the needle, and knitting it when it ouccurs in the 
 next row; then knit two stitches together, knit one, make one as 
 before, knit two together, knit eight, and so proceed to the end of 
 the row. When you have knitted as many rows as you require, 
 cast off five stitches and leave three, to he unravelled, for the fringe. 
 They may he knitted in two or more colors, taking care to knit 
 them in equal spaces; that is, with an equal number of stitches in 
 each color. 
 
 GENTLEMAN'S TRAVELLING CAP. You first cast on an e* T en 
 number of stitohes, and thus proceed ; the first row is plain ; then 
 slip off the first stitch in each row, and make one, by bringing the 
 material in front ; then slip a stitch the contrary way, knit the next, 
 and so proceed to the end of the row : you commence the next by 
 slipping a stitch as before ; then knit two stitches together to the 
 last, which is to be knitted plain: repeat these rows alternately. 
 
 HERRING-BONE PURSE. The number of stitches must be so as 
 to be divided by four. The silk is to be brought forward, then 
 slip one, knit one, and bring the slip stitch over it. Knit one, 
 again bring the silk forward, pearl one, and so repeat. This 
 purse should be knitted with second sized netting silk, No. 13. 
 
 HALF HANDKERCHIEF. This is extremely pretty, when prop- 
 erly executed. Begin with one stitch to form the point, and knit 
 as many rows, increasing one each row as is required to give you 
 seven loops upon the pin. You must increase always at the same 
 end : then commence the pattern. Make one stitch, slip one, and 
 knit two stitches together, putting the slipped stitch over the two 
 knitted as one. Repeat this until you have got to four stitches from 
 the end ; then again make a stitch, and knit the remainder plain. 
 The next row is to be done in pearl stitch, and the succeeding 
 one as the first pattern. Every row of pearl stitch must be in-
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 119 
 
 creased one, and the three last stitches are to be knitted plain. 
 This handkerchief must be one yard and a quarter long on the 
 straight side. When completed, fasten off. 
 
 HABIT SHIRT. These are worn under a shawl, and are ex- 
 tremely comfortable : they protect the chest from cold. The ma- 
 terial most proper for them is floss wool, and they should be knit- 
 ted with steel pins. You knit the front first, and begin by casting 
 on as many loops as will form the length required. As it is ne- 
 cessary that one end should be a good deal more sloped than the 
 other, you must be careful to increase at the end most sloped, at 
 each end of the row ; but at the other, you are only to increase at 
 the end, and not at the beginning : having knitted one of the fronts, 
 knit the other to match it", and then begin the back. Commence 
 at the bottom, or narrow part of the waist, and increase at each 
 end of every row, until it is wide enough to reach from one shoul- 
 der to the other, and then decrease at both ends of each row for 
 the neck. You then finish the centre stitches, and knit up first on 
 one side and then the other, decreasing each row, until a proper 
 hollow is obtained. You then knit the collar straight, and of any 
 depth you please. Make up, by sewing the various parts together, 
 and set on a ribbon to the back, to tie round the waist, and an- 
 other to secure it at the throat. 
 
 HARLEQUIN QUILT, WITH TUCKS. This is done in double 
 knitting stitch, with six threads fleecy. The pieces are six inches 
 square. Each square consists of about 24 stitches, and they are 
 to be sewn together with a tuft of wool, black or white, at each 
 corner. The square should be knitted in at least three colors, in- 
 cluding white ; in a quilt one yard and a half square, there will be 
 225 pieces, 1 13 of which should be white. Make the tufts as fol- 
 lows: wind four-thread fleecy about 12 times round a grooved
 
 120 LADIES' WOEK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 wooden mesh, one inch in width : then slip a coarse thread in the 
 groove, and tie the wool quite tight, but taking care that an end 
 is left to it, which can be drawn through and fastened to the quilt. 
 The loops of wool are to be cut through on the other side of the 
 mesh ; after which it is to be combed and dressed as neatly as 
 possible. 
 
 PATTERN FOR A LIGHT SCARF Cast on the number of stitches 
 required upon No. 18 needles, and any kind of material you 
 choose ; three-threads fleecy is generaly preferred. Knit one plain 
 stitch, then two together, and so on alternately, to the end of the 
 row : each succeeding one is but a repetition of the first : it may 
 be done in stripes, with various colors. 
 
 PLAIN KNITTED MUFFATEES. For these you will require four 
 needles. On three of these cast on an equal number of stitches, 
 according to the size required, and knit each round three pearl and 
 three plain : finish with one plain and two pearl rows. 
 
 STOCKINGS. Cast on first size 73, second 85, third 91, fourth 
 99, fifth 109, sixth 133. Then knit rounds to the commencement 
 of the narrowings, 40, 52, 54, 56, 60, and 74, respectively, accor- 
 ding to the sizes given above. The narrowings in the leg are ac- 
 cording to the size, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, and 21. After which you 
 knit 18, 20, 25, 27, 30, or 45 rounds to the heel, which is to 
 be formed in the following manner. The stitches are to be divided 
 in half, taking care to have the seam stitch for the middle, and 
 the heel is to be knitted in alternate turns of plain and pearled 
 stitches. The length, of course, varies in proportion to the size, 
 being 12 turns for the first and second, 13 for the third, 14 for the 
 fourth, 15 for the fifth, and 20 for the sixth. The heel is finished 
 by knitting the nine middle stitches in rows, the same as the heel, 
 and taking up one of the others with the last loop of each row,
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 121 
 
 till all is taken off There will thus be nine stitches when the 
 heel is finished. Having got thus far, you proceed to form the 
 foot as follows. You take up sixteen on each side of the heel, 
 in the second row, and taking them up, you make a seam on each 
 side of the instep, knitting another stitch in the loop under the 
 first and last, which prevents holes in the corners, that would 
 otherwise occur. Then narrow every second round on the heel 
 sides of the seam until the number of stitches are the same as 
 those in the instep, or what is commonly called the fore foot nee- 
 dle. You will have for the instep 28, 32, 34, 40, or 46, as the 
 case may be ; and the rounds between the heel and toe narrow- 
 ings, will be 14, 18, 23, 26, 30, and 34, respectively; and the 
 narrowings for the feet will be 6, 8, 8, 8, 9, and 10, on each side, 
 according to the measurement given. You begin the toe by nar- 
 rowing double at the seams, leaving only the seam stitch between, 
 and narrowing twice with three, and twice with two rounds left 
 between each narrowing: then narrow twice, leaving but one 
 round between, and then every round until sixteen stitches only 
 are left. Finish by putting the two needles having stitches on 
 them together. And when two stitches are done in this manner, 
 cast them off, the first over the last, until the whole is taken off 
 the needles. It should be noted, that the stitches in the heel vary 
 with the size of the stocking, and are as follows : first size 29, 
 second 33, third 33, fourth 37, fifth 41, and sixth 45. 
 
 Some workers take off the heel, in the same manner as the toe 
 is here directed to he finished. 
 
 OPEN-WORK STOCKINGS. On each needle cast on 52 stitches 
 with fine cotton, knit the welts and raise one stitch for the seam. 
 When you arrive at the narrowings, narrow every eighth row, 
 and when you have 38 stitches on each needle, cease, and knit
 
 122 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 until the article is completed ; then take half the stitches to form 
 the heel, knit 23 loops, and narrow on each side of the seam for 
 three rows. In forming the heel, narrow every row once the 
 fourth loop from the seam, and then the loops must be taken up, 
 the end one as close as possible. Take three stitches from each 
 side of the fore foot needle to the other, and knit a round plain ; 
 after which, widen every fifth stitch on both sides of the heel. 
 Alternate rows of the heel needles are then to be narrowed until 
 only 36 loops remain on each. The stitches to be narrowed are 
 the fifth and sixth from the ends. Knit the feet of a proper length, 
 and then narrow at the ends of the needles every other row, until 
 only ten remain on each ; narrow every row until you have only 
 three, which you cast off in the usual manner. The open pattern 
 is produced by knitting every fifth round thus : take two stitches 
 in one, and bring the cotton in front of the needle, that it may form 
 a stitch before taking the succeeding two into one. The more 
 open you desire the work to be, the fewer stitches and the finer 
 needles you will require. 
 
 A NIGHT STOCKING. This is easily done : cast on 54 stitches 
 on large needles, and pearl every other stich, narrowing gradually 
 toward the end. 
 
 SOCKS. These are very useful articles, and are easy of execu- 
 tion. In the first size there are 49 stitches, in the second 55, and 
 in the third 85 ; they have 16, 23, or 24 turns to the heel, in which 
 there are 25, 29, or 43 stitches, as the size may require. The in- 
 step has 24, 25, or 42 stitches; and the length of the heel is 10, 
 12, or 14 turns. The length of the foot between the narrowings, 
 is 10, 15, and 28 rounds. 
 
 CORNER FOR A SHAWL. This, if propeily executed, according 
 to the directions, looks extremely handsome. Begin by casting
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 123 
 
 on two loops, to form the point ; knit them, and proceed as fol- 
 lows. First row, make a loop, knit the two original ones to- 
 gether, make a loop ; you will then have three loops upon the 
 pin ; knit four additional rows in plain and pearled alternately, in- 
 creasing a stitch at the beginning and end of each row, and then 
 on the fifth row you will have eleven stitches. In the next row 
 commence the pattern thus. Sixth row hegin with six plain stitches, 
 pearl one, knit six plain. Seventh row plain knitting. Eighth 
 row, knit six plain, pearl one, knit two together, pearl one, knit 
 two together, pearl one, knit six plain. Ninth row plain. Tenth, 
 Knit six plain, pass the material in front to make a stitch, knit 
 two together, again make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit 
 two together, make a stitch, knit six plain. Eleventh row plain 
 Twelfth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl 
 three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a siitch, pearl three, 
 make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Thirteenth row 
 plain. Fourteenth, knit six plain, pearl three, knit two together, 
 make a stitch, pearl three, knit two together, pearl three, make a 
 stitch, knit two togteher, pearl three, knit six plain. Fifteenth 
 row plain. Sixteenth, knit six plain, knit two together, make a 
 stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, 
 pearl five, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl 
 three, make a stitch, knit two together, knit six plain. Seven- 
 teenth row plain. Eighteenth, six plain, pearl three, knit two to- 
 gether, make a stitch, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, 
 knit five plain, pearl three, make a stitch, knit two together, make 
 a stitch, knit two together, pearl three, knit six plain. Nineteenth 
 row plain. Twentieth, knit six plain, knit two together, pearl 
 three, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, 
 knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, make a stitch, knit
 
 124 LADIES' WORK-TARLE BOOK. 
 
 two together, make a stitch, pearl four, make a stitch, knit two 
 together, pearl three, knit two together, knit six plain. The 
 twenty-first row is plain, and you then decrease as you increased, 
 knitting the twenty-second row as the twentieth, and so proceed 
 until you have two loops on the pin. The square is then com- 
 plete. 
 
 BORDER FOR THE SHAWL. Having finished the corner, pick 
 up the twenty-one stitches on one side, and knit one row plain ; 
 the second row, knit two plain, three pearled, three plain, again 
 pearl three, then three plain, pearl three, knit four plain. The 
 third row knit plain ; the fourth row, pearl one stitch, knit one, 
 pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three together, 
 knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl four, 
 knit four plain. Fifth row plain. Sixth row knit one, pearl one, 
 knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make a stitch, pearl three, 
 knit one, pearl one, knit one, pearl one, knit two together, make 
 a stitch, knit six plain. Seventh row plain. Eighth row, same 
 as the sixth. Ninth plain. Tenth as the fourth. Eleventh plain. 
 Twelfth as the second, repeat the first three rows, and re-com- 
 mence the pattern. The shawl must he knitted on the same sized 
 pins as the horder and corner, and must have as many loops as 
 there are stitches in the length of the border. The horder and 
 corner may be done in two colors, which must harmonize well 
 with each other, and form a good contrast to the shawl itself.
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 NETTING. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 
 
 NETTING is another employment, to which the attention of the 
 fair has been directed from the remotest times. Specimens of 
 Egyptian network, performed three thousand years since, are 
 still in existence ; and, from that time, the art, in connection with 
 that of spinning flax, was there carried to its highest state of per- 
 fection. With these specimens, are preserved some of the nee- 
 dles anciently used in netting. They are to be found in one of 
 the museums at Berlin. The Egyptian nets were made of flax, 
 and were so fine and delicate, that according to Pliny, " they 
 could pass through a small ring, and a single person could carry 
 a sufficient number of them to surround a whole wood. Julius 
 Lupus, while governor of Egypt, had some of these nets, each 
 string of which consisted of one hundred and fifty threads." But 
 even this fineness was far exceeded by the thread of a linen corslet, 
 presented by Amasis, king of Egypt, to the Rhodians, the thieads 
 of which, as we learn from the same authority, were each com- 
 posed of three hundred and sixty-five fibres. Herodotus also 
 mentions a corslet of a similar texture.
 
 120 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 In connection with other elegant female accomplishments, net- 
 ting has continued to claim the attention of the ladies of Europe, in 
 every advanced state of civilization, and, in the present day, is cul- 
 tivated with considerable success. Netting v/is a favorite employ- 
 ment of the late Queen Charlotte, during the latter years of her 
 life. 
 
 PLAIN NETTING. Take the mesh in the left hand, (having pre- 
 viously made a long loop with twine, and 
 fixed it to any convenient support,) between 
 the two first fingers and the thumb. The 
 netting needle must be threaded with the ma- 
 terial, and fastened by a knot to the long 
 loop before spoken of, and the mesh must be held up as close as 
 possible to this knot under the twine. The silk is to be held in 
 the right hand between the fore finger and the thumb and must be 
 passed under and around the left hand, so that the material may 
 be formed into a slack loop, passing over all the fingers, except 
 the little one. In this position, the silk must be held between the 
 upper side of the mesh and the left-hand thumb, and the needle 
 must be passed back, round the pin or mesh, allowing the material 
 to form a larger loop, so as to include the little finger. The nee- 
 dle will thus be brought round, in front of the mesh, and must pass 
 under the first loop, between the mesh and the fingers, and thus 
 through the loop called the foundation loop, and thence over that 
 portion of the material which goes backward for the purpose of 
 forming the second loop. The needle must be kept in its position, 
 till the right hand is so brought round as to be able to pull it 
 through, and then the needle being drawn out and held in the 
 right hand, the worker must disengage all the fingers of the left 
 except the last, which is to retain its hold of the second loop, which
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 127 
 
 was formed by passing the material round it. By means of this 
 hold, retained by the little finger, the material is to be drawn to the 
 mesh, and the knot thus formed be drawn tight to the foundation. 
 This process is to be repeated, until a sufficient number of stitches 
 are formed as are necessary, according to the width of the net de- 
 sired. As the mesh is filled, some of the loops must be suffered 
 to drop off ; and when the row is completed, it must be drawn 
 out, and a row of loops will be found suspended from the foun- 
 dation by their respective knots, and moving freely onwards. The 
 work is then to be turned over, which will cause the ends of the 
 rows to be reversed ; and in netting a second row, it will be done 
 as before from left to right. In commencing the second, and all 
 the succeeding rows, the mesh must be so placed as to come up 
 close to the bottom of the preceeding row or loops, and the former 
 process with the needle must be repeated. It will be needful, to 
 have a sufficient quantity of material always wound on the needle, 
 or otherwise it will not move freely round, as it is indispensible 
 it should do. 
 
 BEAD STITCH. To execute this stitch properly, requires care, 
 but it is very ornamental. Beads of all kinds ,may be introduced. 
 In order to net with beads, you must procure a long taper darning 
 needle : the stitch is as follows ; string a bead upon the thread or 
 silk you net with : this bead is to be brought to the front of the 
 mesh, and held there until the knot is made ; at the back of the 
 mesh, bring the needle and thread, passing the point through the 
 bead which is upon the front of the mesh. The needle and thread 
 are then to be drawn through it, by which means the bead will be 
 brought quite up to the knot just made. By working the beads in 
 this manner, they will be kept stationary upon the thread, and so 
 remain in their places, and impart much beauty to the work.
 
 128 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 DIAMOND NETTING. This kind of netting is easy of execution, 
 and looks extremely pretty. It is done by 
 making every other stitch a loop stitch, in 
 order to effect which, the silk must be put 
 twice round the mesh, instead of once, as in 
 plain netting. Treble diamond netting is 
 similar, only the process is rather more diffi- 
 cult in execution. After netting three rows 
 plain, at the beginning, the first row is to be composed of one 
 loop stitch, and three plain stitches, repeated until the row is fin- 
 ished : then in working the second row, commence with a plain 
 stitch, then follow with a loop, then two plain stitches, and repeat 
 as before. For the third row begin with one or two plain stitches, 
 make a loop, then net a stitch plain, and repeat the two loops and 
 the plain stitch to the end of the row. For the fouth row you net 
 three stitches in plain netting, then make a loop stitch, and repeat 
 as in previous rows. An attention to this arrangement, will soon 
 enable the young student in net-work, to net in as many stitches 
 as may seem desirable. 
 
 DIAMOND NETTING, OF FIVE STITCHES. Commence with a 
 long loop, then net five loops plain, repeat 
 to the end of the row, finishing with a long 
 loop. Second row, begin with a plain loop, 
 make a loose stitch to meet the short loop in 
 the previous row, and withdraw the mesh 
 before commencing the next loop, work four 
 loops plain, and so proceed. Third row is 
 commenced as the second : withdraw the 
 mesh as before, and work three plain loops. Begin the fourth
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 129 
 
 row with a plain stitch, work a long loop, then a loose stitch ; 
 withdraw the mesh, and work two plain stitches ; again with- 
 draw the mesh, work a plain stitch, and so proceed to the end. 
 The fifth is begun with two plain stitches; then form a loose stitch, 
 withdraw the mesh, work one plain loop, again withdraw the 
 mesh, and finish with two plain stitches. The sixth row com- 
 mences with three stitches plain, then make one loose stitch, and 
 finish with two plain ones. For the seventh row, commence as 
 in the last case ; make a long loop, and finish with two plain 
 stitches. The eighth row begins with three stitches in plain net- 
 ting ; withdraw the mesh, net one stitch plain, make a loose stitch, 
 again withdraw the mesh, and finish the row with a plain stitch. 
 In doing the ninth row net two stitches plain, withdraw the mesh, 
 net two more plain stitches, make a loose stitch, again withdraw 
 the mesh, and finish with a plain stitch. The tenth row is begun 
 as the last, but instead of the loose stitch, net a plain one, then 
 make the loose stitch, and withdraw the mesh. The mesh proper 
 for this kind of netting is No. 18, and the silk called second-sized 
 purse twist, is the best adapted for this kind of work. 
 DOTTED NETTING. This is easily done. Cast on the number 
 of loops you require, and proceed as fol- 
 lows. Begin with long loop, in which 
 you next increase two stitches ; repeat to 
 the end of the row. None of the rows 
 are at all varied ; and you must carefully 
 preserve its uniform appearance, as in that 
 consists its principal beauty 
 
 SHADED SILK NETTING. This is beautiful, when the shades 
 blend well together. Of course, each row must be worked in one 
 shade, and the next needful must be matched with the utmost care.
 
 130 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 It is not possible to give minute rules on such a subject : but, iu 
 this, as in other things, practice will insure success. 
 
 GRECIAN NETTING. This is beautiful, and should be worked 
 with fine silk, and with two meshes, No. 9 
 and 18 ; one plain row is to be netted with 
 the large mesh, and then in the next row 
 employ the small one. The silk is twisted 
 round the fingers as in plain netting, and the 
 needle must pass through the finger loop into the first stitch, and 
 thence into the second. Then let the second be drawn through 
 the first, and the first through the second, finishing the stitch by 
 releasing your fingers and pulling the material tight. The suc- 
 ceeding stitch is a small loop, that appears to cross the stitches 
 twisted together. These three kinds of stitches form the pattern, 
 and are to be repeated until the work is completed. Grecian net- 
 ting may be employed for a variety of purposes, and you can, of 
 course, vary both the material and the meshes as best accords with 
 the design you are intending to accomplish. 
 
 FRENCH GROUND NET. You must have an even number of 
 loops on the foundation, then proceed. First 
 row, plain stitches and long loops, alternate- 
 ly; second row plain; make a loose stitch, 
 and repeat. Begin the fourth with a loose 
 stitch, net one plain, repeat to the end ; com- 
 mence the fifth row by netting one plain loop, make a long loop, 
 and the little loop as in the third row ; in coming after the last 
 long loop, the little loop must be exchanged for a plain stitch. 
 
 ANOTHER KIND OF HONEYCOMB NETTING. Use a mesh No. 
 17, and set on an even number of stitches. Net the first row plain, 
 having the silk round the mesh twice. For the second row you
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 131 
 
 put the silk once round the mesh and net the second loop, having 
 previously half twisted it. Then net the first loop plain, net the 
 fourth as the second, again net a stitch plain, and thus proceed 
 with plain and half-twisted stitches, alternately. The third row 
 is the same as the first, and the fourth as the second. These 
 kinds of netting are very pretty for purses, bags, &c., and may be 
 done in different colors if the purse is worked in four or five rows 
 of plain, and the same number of honeycomb netting. 
 HONEYCOMB NETTING. You are to make an even number of 
 loops, putting the silk twice round a No. 
 18 mesh, for the second row net with the 
 silk once round the mesh, and put the 
 first stitch through the second at the back, 
 and net it ; then the second stitch is pulled 
 through the middle of the first and netted : you do the same with 
 each two of the other stitches, and must be careful not to burst 
 them. For the third row, the silk is put twice round the mesh, 
 and the netting is plain. You proceed thus in alternate rows until 
 the work is done. 
 
 HONEYCOMB NETTING, WITH TWO MESHES. The meshes pro- 
 per are No. 9 and 16. Cast on an even 
 number of stitches, and net the first row 
 plain, with the No. 9 mesh. With mesh 
 No. 16 net the second row, working the 
 second stitch first and the first second, and 
 so proceed netting the fourth stitch, and then the third, and so on 
 to the end Work the third row with No. 9 as before, and the 
 fourth row as the second, only netting the first loop plain, and 
 then taking, first the third, and then the second, and so on to the
 
 132 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 end, finishing with a loop in plain netting. The next row is done 
 plain with No. 9, the next with No. 16, exactly as the first twisted 
 row. The odd stitch netted plain, only occurs at the commence- 
 ment of each alternate row of netting done with No. 16. This 
 kind of netting is proper for a veil. 
 
 LEAF NETTING. This is pretty when executed properly. You 
 should work with cotton, and No. 14 mesh. 
 Five loops are required for each pattern. 
 Commence the first row by netting two plain 
 loops for the edge, then net three plain, in the 
 next loop increase four, and repeat this oper- 
 ation to the end of the row ; finish with two plain loops. Begin 
 the second row as before, and collect all the loops increased in 
 each of the twice four loops formed in the last row, into one ; 
 then net four loops plain ; repeat this to the end of the row, and 
 net two plain as before. The third row is plain netting. The 
 fourth row has two loops netted plain, -then two more plain ; you 
 then increase four on each of the next two loops, net one plain, 
 and repeat the operation to the end of the row ; finish by netting 
 two stitches plain. Fifth row, commence as before, net one plain 
 loop, collect the increased loops as the second row, net three plain, 
 and so repeat ; net two plain to finish the row. The next row is 
 netted plain. Repeat these rows as often as your work requires 
 it to be done. 
 
 NET WITH POINTS. This is done by making a foundation of, 
 say, ninety stitches. Net on this foundation with any color you 
 please. Net fifty stitches and return back again, proceed as be- 
 fore, only decreasing ten stitches, and so go on, until the required 
 point is gained. Two colors are required.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 133 
 
 MALTESE NETTING, IN SPOTS. This is neat and elegant : it is 
 done as follows. The first two rows are netted 
 plain : you commence the third row by netting seven 
 stitches ; the silk is then to be passed round the 
 mesh, and the needle brought under the knot in the 
 second row, but without netting it ; that is between 
 the stitch you last netted and the one you are about 
 to net. A loop is then made, which is not to be 
 netted separately, as that would increase a stitch in the next row ; 
 but it is to be taken up with the last of the seven stitches pre- 
 viously netted. If you desire the spots to appear very distinct and 
 prominent, let the silk pass twice round the mesh, and afterwards 
 through the loop, and repeat the operation to the end. You may 
 do this spotting, either as it appears in the pattern, or in almost 
 any form you please. 
 
 PLAIN OPEN NETTING. This is pretty, and easy of execution. 
 The operation is performed by netting three 
 rows plain, then a row of loop stitches, then 
 three rows plain, and a row of loops as before. 
 You may net to any length you please. The 
 direction here given is all that is necessary, and 
 if duly attended to will enable any young lady 
 to attain proficiency. 
 
 ROUND NETTING. You commence making the loops, as in 
 common netting, by twisting the silk round 
 the fingers, then pass the needle and the silk 
 through the finger-loop, and bring it up on 
 the back side of the mesh, between it and 
 the fore finger ; the fingers and loop are still to be kept on them
 
 134 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 as before ; the middle is then to be reversed, and brought down 
 through the first loop, (on the foundation,) and taking a slanting 
 direction over the mesh. Having drawn it entirely through, you 
 withdraw your finger from the loop, as in ordinary netting. You 
 every succeding loop in the same way.
 
 C HAPTER XV. 
 
 NETTING. 
 
 EXAMPLES IN NETTING. 
 
 A PURSE, WITH CHINA SILK. Make as many stitches on the 
 foundation as you please. Net three rows with plain colors, 
 then five with China silk. Repeat. 
 
 A SEAM PURSE, WITH BEADS. You will need four skeins of 
 fine silk, and a mesh, No. 8. On a foundation of one hundred 
 stitches, net one plain row. Then in the next row, net a plain 
 and a bead stitch successively. Net the third row plain, and be- 
 gin the next with a bead stitch. Proceed thus till the purse is 
 completed. 
 
 A NETTED BAG, WITH RING. On a foundation of sixty stitches, 
 net the bag to half the length required ; then net in a gilt ring, and 
 finish the bag. Draw it up with ribbon, and place a gilded or silk 
 tassel at the bottom. You will require coarse netting silk, and a 
 No. 16 mesh. You may use union cord, or gilt twist, if you pre- 
 fer it. 
 
 DICE PATTERN PURSE. This is done in two colors, highly con- 
 trasted. You must have two skeins of second sized silk, and a 
 No. 10 mesh. On a foundation of ninety-eight stiiches, net seven 
 with the darkest color. You net seven rows. Then introduce 
 the lighter silk, by joining it to the seventh stitch of the first row
 
 136 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 of the dark color, and net seven rows upon the succeeding seven 
 stitches of the foundation. You must be careful to loop in the last 
 dark stitch on each row : repeat this process until the purse is of 
 the length you require ; of course reversing the squares. In cut- 
 ting off the silk, you must leave sufficient to make a weaver's knot, 
 with which is to be fastened to the succeeding color. 
 
 HONEYCOMB MITTENS. You commence by casting on fifty 
 stitches ; the first four rows are to netted plain : after which, you 
 net one row with the silk, twice round the mesh ; again net two 
 rows with the silk round the mesh once : you then commence 
 netting rounds, and net rows as before. The first row is to be 
 netted with the silk twice round the mesh , the second is in honey- 
 comb pattern ; the third round is executed as the first, and the fourth 
 as the second ; for the fifth round you net eleven stitches with the 
 silk, round the mesh, as in the first row, and make two increased 
 stitches in the twelfth loop ; in the next row, you are to net five 
 stitches and increase two, netting the whole, as in the first row ; 
 net the seventh like the second, and let this be repeated for the four 
 succeeding rounds, a plain and a pattern round alternately ; in the 
 next round, which is plain, pass the silk twice round the mesh, 
 and net seven stiches ; increase two stitches in the eighth round and 
 net seventeen in plain and pattern, alternate rounds ; in the eigh- 
 teenth increase two, and net five rounds; again increase two, and 
 net five ; and on each side again increase two ; net three rounds 
 after the last increase, continuing to net till you arrive at the stitch 
 over the last stitch you increased, and net it to the one correspon- 
 ding to it on the other side of the thumb; if it does not fit as it 
 ought to do, you must decrease, until that object is secured ; you 
 are to finish the thumb, by netting a round with the silk, put twice 
 round the mesh, and two rounds in plain netting ; the silk is to be
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 137 
 
 fastened to the side of the thumb, in order to finish the hand : and 
 you are to net plain and pattern rounds successively. When the 
 mitten is nearly the length you wish, finish in the same manner 
 you did the thumb, using double silk 
 
 NETTED CUFFS. The materials are German wool and French 
 floss silk, and the work is executed with a mesh, No. 11, and a 
 small steel one, No. 15. You commence on a foundation of fifty- 
 four loops ; and in order to form the right side, you net one row 
 of wool with the large mesh, and three rows of silk with the small 
 one, alternately, till you have netted twenty four rows. Then you 
 form the wrong side, by netting one row of wool with the larger 
 mesh, and two rows of the same material with the small one. 
 You will require nine rows netted with the wide mesh, with two 
 narrow rows between each. Then net one wide row with wool, 
 having in each loop three stitches ; above this, knit one nanow 
 row of silk, and do the same at the other end. You have only to 
 double the cuffs, turning the plain side inmost, and the rows of 
 wool and silk will form a kind of border and finish to the whole, 
 
 NETTED CUFF WITH SILK AND WOOL. On a foundation of 
 ninety-six stitches, and with a No. 11 mesh, net one row plain in 
 floss silk. Second row the same. Then with an ivory mesh of 
 half an inch in width, net one row in German wool. The fourth 
 row is to be done two stitches in one, with wool, using a small 
 mesh. Then for the inside half of the cuff, net fourteen rows 
 with the large and small meshes, successively. These to be done 
 in silk and wool alternately. The next three rows to be netted 
 in dark wool. Then with the small mesh net two rows in silk, 
 the same color as at the commencement, alternately, with seven 
 rows of wool, in proper shades, and finish with an edge to corres- 
 pond with the beginning.
 
 138 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 NETTED FRINGE. Use a mesh No. 18, and net the required 
 length, dropping off the stitches on the left. Net the next row 
 the same. Then with a flat mesh, the width of the fringe, plac- 
 ing the grooved edge downward, net one row. These latter loops 
 are to be cut, and either left as they are, or knitted two and two 
 together, as the taste of the worker may dictate. 
 
 NETTED OPERA CAP. Work with one mesh, half an inch 
 wide ; and another, smaller, of steel ; and begin on a foundation 
 of seventy-four stitches. You must procure in double German 
 wool, two colors that contrast well : commence with the darkest 
 shade, and net with the wide mesh one row ; the second is to be 
 netted with the narrow one, and so on alternately : the sixth and 
 seventh are both worked with the narrow mesh : then net five 
 more rows with the wide and narrow meshes alternately : this 
 done, you commence with the other color, and net one row, hav- 
 ing three stitches on each loop of the row preceding : you now 
 introduce silk of the same color as that of the wool first used, and 
 net one row with the narrow mesh ; in that row all the stitches 
 of the last row, netted in wool, must be taken up separately ; the 
 foundation is now to be removed, and rows of the lighter colored 
 wool and silk, are to be netted to correspond. Net another piece 
 of work in exactly the same manner as the former, and taking one 
 of the pieces, fold it in the middle, and net one row with the nar- 
 row mesh in the centre row of knots ; in the piece thus doubled, 
 proceed to net a row with the wide mesh, then two with the nar- 
 row one, and again one with the wide mesh. The other piece is 
 then to be folded in the same manner, and united to the former one 
 by netting a row, taking up as before the centre row of knots. 
 This makes the front of the cap appear in four pieces. At the 
 back, in the centre row of knots, net a row with the narrow mesh,
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 139 
 
 to keep it on an even fold. You draw up the cap at the end, and 
 put the strings on. This completes it. 
 
 NETTED SCOLLOP EDGING. You work this with a flat mesh, 
 and set on as many stitches as you in- 
 tend to have scollops. The flat mesh 
 should be No. 3 ; and you will also re- 
 quire two round ones, one No. 14 and 
 the other No. 18. Begin the work as 
 follows. Net the first row with the flat mesh, and increase eigh- 
 teen stitches into each of the loops on the foundation. For the 
 second row, use the mesh No. 14, and net a plain stitch into each 
 loop. Then, with the mesh No. 18, net the third row in long 
 loops, by passing the material twice round the mesh ; you are 
 to increase two stitches in the same loop, and so continue to the 
 end of the row. In the fourth row you use the mesh No. 14 and 
 leaving all the increased stitches without netting them, net the long 
 loops plain. The fifth and sixth rows are netted plain with the 
 mesh No. 14, which finishes the scollop. 
 
 PLAIN NETTED GENTLEMAN'S PURSE. Of coarse netting silk, 
 you will require five skeins, and a mesh, No. 13. You must 
 have a foundation of eighty stitches on which to commence, and 
 you net to the length of ten inches. Net up the sides and damp 
 it slightly, after which it is put upon a purse stretcher, where it 
 is to be left for a few hours, then take it off and trim it as you 
 please. 
 
 A LADY'S PURSE. Net in the same manner seventy stitches 
 
 on the foundation, and nine inches in length is sufficient. Employ 
 
 a mesh No. 10, and fine netting; silk. Two colors may be used, 
 
 netting five rows with one, and four with the other. 
 
 PLAIN NETTED MITTENS. Begin on forty-eight stitches as a
 
 140 LADIES' WOHK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 foundation, and net four rows plain ; then form the loops, for the 
 ribbon, with a mesh double the size of that you work with. 
 Then five rows more are to be netted plain ; and in the next you 
 must join both ends, and net one plain round, taking care in the 
 twelfth stitch to increase. Again net round, and increase as be- 
 fore. Net the remaining stitches. You must then net sixteen 
 rounds, increasing two stitches, to form the thumb, in the same 
 place as the other increased stitches, every other round. Join the 
 thumb stitches, and net seven rounds, which is the length of the 
 thumb, decreasing a stitch or two in every round. With the larger 
 mesh you are to net two stitches in every loop, and then net one 
 round, taking the two together. Net two or three rounds with a 
 finer mesh : this finishes the thumb. Net as many rounds as are 
 wanted for the hand, and finish as before. Run in the ribbon, and 
 edge with lace. You must have a No. 12 mesh, and five skeins 
 of silk. 
 
 A PLAIN SCOLLOP. You must cast on one stitch for each scol- 
 lop : this is the first row. For the 
 second, use a fiat mesh No. 1, and 
 increase twenty stitches in each loop 
 Net the third with a round mesh No. 
 14, netting all the increased loops 
 plain. The two next rows are netted plain, with the same mesh, 
 which finishes the pattern. 
 
 CAP BORDER SCOLLOP. You commence with one stitch for 
 each scollop, as in last pattern. For the sec- 
 ond row, use the flat mesh No. 1 , and increase 
 in each loop twelve stitches. Net the third round with the round 
 mesh No. 15, and be careful to net the increased stitches plain. 
 The last row is netted plain, with the same mesh as the preced-
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 141 
 
 ing one. The cotton used in the netting of these scollops, should 
 be about the size of what is called third-sized purse twist 
 
 NET CRAVAT. This is netted with German wool, and with a 
 mesh No. 9. Having cast on 400 stitches, in the color you intend 
 first to use, net twenty-three rows in plain netting. Then intro- 
 duce the other color, or white ; and again, in the same manner, 
 net twenty-three rows. Proceed thus, till you have three stripes 
 of each color : then net the two sides together, and draw up the 
 ends. You may add tassels, if you choose. 
 
 A NET SCARF. This is to be worked with two flat needles, 
 No. 8 and No. 2, and in that kind of silk called dockers. You 
 are to commence, by casting on 210 stitches, and netting four rows 
 with the smaller mesh, and thirty or thirty- two with the larger 
 one. These repeated, six times, completes the scarf. You must 
 add the four narrow rows, which will complete the edge. The 
 scarf is to be drawn up at each end, and have tassels attached. 
 
 A LONG PURSE, IN POINTS. Upon your foundation loops, 
 put sixty stitches in one of the colors you intend to use, and re- 
 turn on them. Then, in the next row, put on forty stitches, the 
 next forty, and so on to ten, always returning on the number last 
 put on, and leaving the ten unnetted. You then, with another 
 needle, introduce your other color, and put on ten stitches upon 
 the foundation loops, commencing ten loops from the sixty of the 
 first color. When you have reached the last of the sixty, which 
 you will do when you have put on the ten, you must draw the 
 mesh out, and pass the needle with the second color, through the 
 concluding stitch of the first, working back upon the second color 
 the ten stitches last introduced. The rest of the row is increased 
 ten ; and you must then decrease, as you did with the first color. 
 One pattern is then complete ; and you re-commence and proceed 
 as before.
 
 CHAPTER XVI. 
 
 CROCHET. 
 
 STITCHES IN CROCHET. 
 
 CROCHET has been long known, but it has only become a favorite 
 with the fair votaries of the needle, during the last few years. It 
 is very difficult to describe, though easy of execution, and can be 
 applied to a variety of useful aud ornamental purposes. It is most 
 frequently adopted in -working shawls, table covers, pillows, mats, 
 slippers, carriage mats, and a great variety of other things of ele- 
 gance and utility. Silk, cotton, and wool, are employed, and the 
 work is so easy, that a moderate share of attention to details, will 
 make an expert workman. 
 
 STITCHES. These are called plain single crochet, plain double 
 crochet, plain stitch open crochet, and open crochet, with a variety 
 of stitches. It is not easy to describe the manner of working 
 crochet stitch, though it is easy of execution : perhaps the follow- 
 ing will be found tolerably correct. Take a skein of wool, and 
 having wound it, make a loop at one end, like the first link in a 
 chain ; through this draw another, and so on, until the chain is of 
 the length required. Each must be made rather tight as it is drawn 
 through its preceding loop. This forms the foundation, and the 
 young worker may then proceed with the article she intends to 
 make. She _must pass the needle through the last loop of the
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 143 
 
 foundation, and catching the silk or other material from behind, 
 draw it through and so proceed with every succeeding loop of the 
 foundation, until the row is completed. Having thus formed the 
 first row, she must proceed as before to form a second, and so on 
 from right to left, and from left to right, until she has all the rows 
 required. This is the most effectual way we know of for the 
 learner to pursue and she will find that her work is the same on 
 both sides, producing raised and depressed rows in alternate suc- 
 cession. In working she must not generally work backward and 
 forward, but must finish each row separately. 
 
 PLAIN CROCHET. Make only one loop in each stitch. In mak- 
 ing common purses in crochet, this is the stitch generally employed. 
 
 PLAIN DOUBLE CROCHET. Keep two loops on the needle be- 
 fore finishing the stitch. This stitch is more generally in use than 
 any of the others described. 
 
 PLAIN STITCH OPEN CROCHET. This stitch is done in the fol- 
 lowing manner. To the last link of the foundation chain, crochet 
 five stitches, which must be again crocheted in the fifth stitch of 
 the chain. This is to be repeated to the foundation. The rest of 
 the rows are to be done in the same way, attaching every fifth 
 stitch to the centre one of each loop in the row preceding. This 
 looks extremely well for purses, and it can be be varied by em- 
 ploying two or more colors as taste or fancy may direct. 
 
 OPEN CROCHET. This stitch is difficult to describe ; an atten- 
 tion to the following rules will, we hope, enable 
 
 "- the reader to understand it. First make a chain 
 
 of the length required for the foundation ; then 
 work one stitch plain, and bring the material round the needle, 
 which must be passed through the first loop of the chain, through 
 which bring the material, and you will thus have three stitches on
 
 144 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 the needle. Through the two first of these the material must be 
 drawn, which will leave two ; through these the material must be 
 again drawn, and that will leave one, through which you are to 
 make one stitch plain, as at the commencement. You then put 
 the material over the needle, and through the fourth link of the 
 chain, and proceed as before. You will thus have one plain stitch 
 between each two double ones, which will leave an open space. 
 DOUBLE OPEN CROCHET. This is a similar stitch, only the sin- 
 gte stitch is omitted, and the two long stitches are 
 made together, by passing the needle through the 
 next loop without making a stitch. Thus you 
 will have two long stitches and one open stitch in succession. 
 TREBLE OPEN CROCHET. This is exactly like the last, only 
 making three long stitches, instead of two, be- 
 fore every plain stitch. It looks neat and ele- 
 gant, and may have beads introduced, which 
 produce a charming effect. The following di- 
 rections will enable the novice to work with beads with freedom 
 and accuracy. Thread the beads on a strong silk, and pass one on 
 to the middle stitch of each of the three long ones. 
 
 This will, of course, place a bead in the centre of each square, 
 Beads of various colors may be introduced, so as to form a dia- 
 mond. A gold or polished steel one should form the centre of 
 each diamond. 
 
 DOUBLE STITCH CROCHET. To work this you have only to 
 take both meshes of the chain, instead of one, as in common 
 crochet. 
 
 PLAIN STITCH ELASTIC CROCHET. Work backward and for- 
 wards, first taking one mesh of the chain, and then the other. 
 The upper mesh must be taken first.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 145 
 
 BEAD STITCH. If you wish to work with beads, you must 
 thread all you intend to use, before you begin to work. Then 
 when you wish to insert a bead, no matter what the pattern is 
 you are executing, you have only to pass a bead down to the last 
 stitch you have worked, and to fasten it on by working the stitch 
 as usual ; but this will leave it on the wrong side ; to prevent 
 which, you must bring the crocheting thread to the front, having 
 it on the fore finger of the left hand : by thus keeping the bead in 
 front, and inserting the needle from the back or the stitch you are 
 about to work, you can draw the thread through the back, and 
 make the finishing loop in the common way : you will then find 
 that the bead is on the right side. 
 
 EDGE STITCH. To work this stitch you are to draw a loop 
 through the first stitch on the row, or on the round, if you work 
 in rounds, then draw a second loop through the one last made. 
 Thus the edge stitch is formed. It is of importance to attend to 
 the regular working of this stitch, because if it is not done, you 
 will loose in each row a stitch. On a round, it is not necessary 
 to work the edge stitch ; but when the work has to be turned to 
 work round the contrary way, the edge stitch is indispensible. 
 
 A RAISED STITCH. Make this by passing the needle through, 
 both meshes of the chain, and working two stitches instead of one, 
 in the same space or hole. 
 
 To INCREASE OR DECREASE A STITCH. In the former case, 
 make two stitches in the mesh ; and in the latter, take two stitches 
 together as one, or miss one. 
 
 TRUE STITCH. This means to keep the stitches exactly over 
 each other, when working in different colors, so as to conceal the 
 the half stitch. This must be done with care : and the more at- 
 tention is paid to it, the more beautiful will the work appear.
 
 146 LADIES' WORK TAQL*V JOK. 
 
 To FASTEN ON OR OFF. The former is done by laying the 
 two ends of the material contrarywise, and working a few stitches 
 with both. The latter process is performed by drawing the ma- 
 terial through the last stitch, which must be fastened at the back. 
 
 A DIVIDING LINE. The most general form is that of working 
 two stitches up and down alternately, between the stripes in the 
 groundings ; but it can be varied according to taste. 
 
 What is called making a stitch, at the beginning and end 01 a 
 row, means meaking one stitch of a chain before the first and af- 
 ter the last, which new stitches are to be crocheted in the succeed- 
 ing row. 
 
 To CARRY ON A THREAD IN DOUBLE CROCHET. It is a very 
 common thing to work a pattern in crochet, in more than one 
 color; when this is the case, it is necessary that the colors, not 
 required, should be so managed, as not to make loops, or stitches, 
 at the back. To accomplish this, they must be worked in the 
 following manner. Let the threads, that are not required, be laid 
 along the fore finger of the left hand ; and the crochet needle must 
 be inserted in the usual manner, into the stitch ; you are to let it 
 go below the threads you are carrying on, and the thread with 
 which you are working is to be drawn at the back, through the 
 stitch, into which you inserted the needle or hook. Make the 
 finishing loop as usual, which you carry over the threads, and 
 pull through the two loops you have upon the needle. Thus you 
 will make one stitch, and the process is to be repeated as often as 
 your work requires it. 
 
 JOINING THE THREADS. In order that threads may be united 
 neatly and properly, observe the following directions. Do not 
 work up the thread quite to the end, but leave a small portion ; 
 then, on the fore finger of the left hand, by the end of the thread
 
 T.AD 'WORK-TABLE BOOK. 147 
 
 you are about to commence working with, the end to be toward 
 the tip of the finger, the ball will of course be toward the arm ; 
 work over it for about six stitches, proceeding as you do in carry- 
 ing over the threads ; then by the thread you worked with, but 
 on the same finger, and continue with the thread you have last 
 fastened on, and work over it, in the same manner, for about six 
 stitches. The ends are then to be cut, and you work on as usual, 
 with the thread just joined. This is the best method we know, 
 of making the work appear neat, and, at the same time, of secur- 
 ing the required degree of fineness. 
 
 To INCREASE A STITCH IN CROCHET. The process by which 
 this is done, is as follows. First, make the stitch as usual, then 
 work it again from the hinder or back part of the stitch. This 
 prevents a hole, which would otherwise occur. 
 
 To TAKE IN A STITCH. To do this, two stitches are taken on 
 the needle at the same time, and you work them off as one. 
 
 We have gi^en the fullest explanation of the various stitches 
 in crochet, that our limited space will allow ; and we hope that 
 the directions are so plain that no one will be at a loss to com- 
 prehend their meaning. But we cannot piomise any votary of 
 this delightful employment, even tolerable success, unless she will 
 assiduously apply her own mind to the various directions. " No 
 one can become an expert needlewoman, who does not think, and 
 think deeply, too."
 
 CHAPTER XVII. 
 CROCHET. 
 
 EXAMPLES IN CROCHET. 
 
 CROCHET EDGING, FOR COLLARS, &c. Ascertain the length you 
 will require, and cast on the necessary number 
 of chain stitches ; you must use a steel hook 
 
 - 
 
 No. 19. You will rind your labor facilitated 
 
 by sewing a piece of tape at the beginning and 
 the end of the foundation-row of chain stitch. If the tops be an 
 inch wide, it will form a good beginning and termination. The 
 foundation of chain stitch forms the first row ; the second is worked 
 thus ; the hook is inserted through the first loop of the foundation ; 
 (this will be on the tape,) through which, a loop is to be brought in 
 the usual manner ; directly above this, a second loop is worked, 
 which forms the beginning. You now leave the tape, and work 
 two chain stitches; after which, you throw a stitch on the needle, 
 by casting the material over it. Then, taking the third loop on 
 the foundation, counting from the one last worked, you insert the 
 hook, passing two loops without working them, and catching the 
 thread from behind, pull it through. Thus, you will have on the 
 needle three loops ; and you must now throw a stitch on the hook, 
 which is, in like manner, to be pulled through the first loop, near 
 the point. By this, you will still have three loops on the hook.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TARLE BOOK. 149 
 
 Again, throw on a stitch as before, which draw through the two 
 first loops on the end of the hook ; then throw on another stitch, 
 which must be pulled through the two loops remaining on the 
 hook. You will then have only one loop upon the needle ; and 
 thus one stitch is completed. Make two chain stitches, as before, 
 and then perform another stitch ; and so proceed, as in the former 
 row, but instead of inserting the hook inthe third loop, as before, 
 pass it into the first open portion of the woik.and work the stitch 
 over the two chain stitches of the second row, as follows. The 
 needle being inserted into the open space, you are to catch the ma- 
 terial in from behind, and draw it through, by which you will have 
 three loops on the hook : then throw a loop on as before, and let 
 it be drawn through the first loop, on the point of the hook. An- 
 other loop is next to be thrown in, and drawn through the two 
 loops nearest the hook, on which you will now have two loops. 
 You thus complete the stitch, as in the previous row, and so pro- 
 ceed to the end. The next row is the same in all respects ; and 
 the fifth is to form a Vandyke edge : it is worked in the following 
 manner : the needle is inserted into the open space, and work a 
 double tambour stitch round the chain stitches of the fourth row ; 
 then seven chain stitches are to be made and fastened to the two 
 chain stitches of the last row, in the same manner as before. Thus 
 one scollop or vandyke is completed, and you work all the others 
 in the same way. 
 
 PETTICOAT CROCHET EDGING. Work this in the following 
 manner. First row like the last pattern. The 
 second like the second of the last ; and finish 
 with the fifth row of the same pattern. Per- 
 sian cotton, No. 6, is the best material; and you work with a long 
 steel crochet needle, having an ivory screw handle.
 
 150 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 CROCHET EDGING, HANDKERCHIEFS. This isdone it three rcnvs, 
 worked as the first, second, third, and fifth rows of crochet edging, 
 for collars. The material is Persian thread, No. 1 2 ; and you work 
 with a fine steel crochet needle, with a screw handle. 
 
 INSERTION, OR CROCHET BEADING. You work this, if narrow, 
 as first and second rows of the first pattern ; if you have it wider, 
 work it as the third row. It may be either worked with No. 8 or 
 No. 12 cotton, and looks neat and handsome. 
 
 The following remarks on crochet should be carefully attended 
 to. It is necessary to work this kind of work, rather loose than 
 otherwise, as it is liable to cut, if done over tight. The size of 
 the stitch depends, of course, upon that of the needle ; and, there- 
 fore, care should be taken, to have them gauged. If a needle will 
 go into the slit, opposite No. 4, but not into No. 5, then it is a 
 No. 4 needle. 
 
 SOFA PILLOW. Work in six threads fleecy, and with a good 
 sized crochet needle ; work as follows. For the first stripe, com- 
 mence with two rows of the same color ; the three next rows, in 
 different shades, of a color that will contrast well with that of the 
 two first; the sixth row must be of a different color, or it may be 
 white. The next five rows are to correspond, reversing the colors 
 and shades. The second stripe is composed of seven rows : the 
 first, three distinct shades of the same color ; the middle one, a 
 contrast ; and the other three, the same shades as the first, but re- 
 versed as before. The third stripe is the same, but, of course, the 
 colors are different. A white row in the middle of each stripe, is, 
 in our opinion, the best. The fourth stripe is a repetition of the 
 first, omitting the color in the first two rows, the fifth of the se- 
 cond, and the sixth of the third. The last stripe is to correspond 
 exactly with the first.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 151 
 
 TURKISH PATTERN, FOR A TABLE COVER. Use a steel needle, 
 and six threads fleecy. Form the dividing line of two shades of 
 the same color, say claret, and have four stripes, namely, white, 
 gold color, blue, and scarlet. Then, on the white stripe, work 
 the pattern in two greens, two scarlets, two blues, a brown, and a 
 yellow. On the gold color, in two blues and one claret, white, 
 lilac, and green. On the blue, in two scarlets, two greens, one 
 drab, white, brown, and orange. And on the scarlet, one green, 
 one white, two blues, a claret, and a bright yellow. We have 
 merely given the colors in the above, as a specimen, and to assist 
 the youthful artist in the formation of habits of arrangement. She 
 can, of course, adopt any colors and shades she pleases ; and the 
 more she employs her own thought and judgment, the more ori- 
 ginal will her work appear. 
 
 A PLAIN CROCHET BAG, IN SILK. Begin at the top with a 
 chain, of one hundred and fifty stitches. The material to work 
 with, may be any kind of silk that is proper for the purpose, and 
 of any color that may be deemed desirable. On this foundation, 
 a plain row is to be worked, and then a row in two colors, in two 
 stitches of each alternately. The second color is employed to 
 form the ground of the pattern. Work one plain row, and then 
 work large stars, in a color to contrast with the plain ground. 
 Between the large stars, work small ones, in a different color. One 
 row of plain ground is to be crocheted on each side of the pattern ; 
 and before commencing the second stripe, repeat the row of two 
 colors in two stitches of each. The ground of the next stripe is 
 to contrast highly with that of the former one. The larger stars 
 should also be well contrasted ; but, all in the same stripe, must 
 be of the same color ; all the small stars should be alike. The 
 stripes are to be repeated successively, until the bag is completed.
 
 152 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 A GREEK CAP, IN COARSE CHENILLE.- With a chain of six 
 or eight stitches, begin at the top, and having united the ends, 
 work round and round, in rows, until it is eight inches across. 
 You must increase your stitches, in each row, so as to preserve 
 the work flat. Work the stitches in open crochet, and between 
 every two rows, it will be best to introduce a few plain lines, in 
 black and gold. This cap is extremely elegant 
 
 A CROCHET NECK CHAIN. Commence with fine plain stitches ; 
 then put the needle through the back of the second, and make one 
 stitch plain. By twisting the chain, after every stitch, you will 
 find that one stitch appears to cross ; that stitch is the one to be 
 next taken, and crocheted. 
 
 A PLAIN CROCHET PURSE. This purse is made with middle- 
 sized netting silk, and is strong and durable. A chain is to be 
 made of one hundred and forty stitches, of any color you prefer, 
 on which, you are to crochet three rows plain in the same color 
 Then, five rows, in a color making a good contrast. Repeat these 
 stripes as many times as are requisite, and crochet up the sides. 
 Draw up the ends, and trim the purse. 
 
 We deem it unnecessary to add more examples in crochet, as 
 without engravings, they would not be understood. This kind of 
 work is capable of being applied to an almost indefinite number 
 of purposes; but in almost all cases, though easy of execution, 
 the patterns are not easy to be described in writing. We have, 
 however, done all that is required, to afford an insight into this 
 kind of needlework ; and have shewn that for purses, bags, caps, 
 neck chains, &c., it can be readily brought into requisition. Much 
 care and judgment are required in the arrangement of colors, as on 
 this, almost the whole beauty of the work depends.
 
 CHAPTER XVIil. 
 
 TATTING. 
 
 EXPLANATION OF STITCHES. 
 
 TATTIKG OPEN STITCH. Take you tatting needle, and, having 
 
 threaded it with the 
 appropriate material 
 make a knot at the 
 end. In order to 
 make the loops, put 
 
 the knot just made on the fore finger of the left hand, and form 
 also a loop round the second, third and fourth fingers, extending 
 them for that purpose. These loops are made by carrying the 
 thread round the back of them, bringing it to the fore finger again, 
 so as to pass over the knot. In this position they must be held 
 tightly down by the pressure of the thumb. You will observe 
 that the thumb and fore finger are never to be moved while you 
 form the scollop, but you are to bring the needle and thread toward 
 you in a straight direction from the fore ringer and thumb, between 
 the second and third fingers: the needle is then to be inserted from 
 behind the finger loop, up through the middle, between the thread
 
 154 
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 which is on the needle, and the thread round the fingers. You 
 must be careful to have the thread (on the needle) between you 
 and the needle, after you have drawn it through. From the right 
 hand to the left the needle must be extended as tight as possible, 
 leaving loose the loop which is round the finger as you make the 
 stitch with the loop, and not with that portion of the thread which 
 is next the needle. You are to withdraw the second ringer, and 
 allow the loop round the ringers to form round the thread. The 
 ringers are then to be again inserted, and form the stitch with the 
 second finger by drawing it up to its proper place, close to the thumb. 
 This will finish the stitch. For the next, cast the thread over the 
 hack part of the hand, instead of bringing it to you as in the for- 
 mer stitch, and let the needle be inserted down through the finger 
 loop, between the first and second fingers ; then draw it up through 
 between the two threads over the back part of, the fingers, and form 
 the stitch with the second one, as in the previous stitch. You 
 work the third stitch the same as the first, only longer, that it may 
 form a long loop. Repeat the second stitch, then the long loop ; 
 and thus proceed until you have seven loops : after this, the thread 
 is to be drawn up, so as to form the scollop. 
 
 STAR TATTING. The material for this kind of work is bobbin, 
 such as is generally used for chil- 
 dren's caps. You have only to work 
 six scollops and draw them up close, 
 so as to form a star. When made 
 with precision and regularity, they 
 present a neat appearance. Star tat- 
 ting is well adapted for trimmings to 
 
 at many articles of apparel and 
 ornament.
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 155 
 
 COMMON TATTING EDGING. Make the loops, and work the 
 
 first stitch as in the first pattern ; then 
 
 -jfrk. Jfb^Jp work twenty stitches the same way to 
 
 ^tfgpr ^otfiff ^H^ 
 
 form the scollop. When it is finished, 
 
 you must draw up the thread tight, and then commence another. 
 If it has been properly done, the scollop will draw freely. 
 

 
 CHAPTER XIX. 
 CONCLUDING REMARKS. 
 
 IN bringing the Ladies' Work-Table Book to a close, we can- 
 not persuade ourselves to dismiss the subject, without a word or 
 two to our fair friends, as to the use, necessary to be made, of all 
 the useful or ornamental accomplishments their circumstances 
 and situations may enable them to acquire. We should never, 
 for one moment, suffer the utile to be absent from our thoughts : 
 she who has no definite aim in what she does, can never have 
 any good ground of hope, that, in her progress through life, she 
 can attain to excellence. 
 
 These remarks apply principally to that large class, who are 
 dependent upon exertion of some kind, for the means of comfort 
 and respectability, in their respective stations. But, as those la- 
 dies, whose circumstances render a practical acquaintance with the 
 arts here treated of, a matter of indifference, a knowledge of them 
 is, by no means, unnecessary. In many ways indeed, a lady, 
 blessed with affluence, may render an acquaintance with the details 
 of needlework extensively useful. 
 
 It is often the case that young persons are engaged in families, 
 whose education has been, from some cause or other, lamentably 
 neglected. In those cases, the lady who feels her obligations, and
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 57 
 
 is actuated by a true Christian spirit, will consider herself as stand- 
 ing in the place of a mother to her humble dependents ; and, un- 
 der a deep sense of her high responsibilities, will endeavor to im- 
 prove, and fit them, by suitable and kindly-imparted instructions, 
 for the proper discharge of the duties of that station, which it may 
 be presumed they will in after days be called upon to fill. In this 
 case, how useful will the kind and careful mistress find a know- 
 ledge of that art, which teaches the proper method of making those 
 articles of dress which are so essential to every family who, how- 
 ever humble, are desirous of securing the respect of the wise and 
 the good, by judicious economy, and a neat and respectable ap- 
 pearance. 
 
 Those ladies who are in the habit of devoting a portion of their 
 time to the superintendence of our female charity schools, will 
 also find such knowledge extremely beneficial. To those who 
 are disposed to follow the example of the holy Dorcas, in provid- 
 ing garments for the deserving and destitute poor, an acquaintance 
 with plain needlework is indispensible ; and indeed, it will, in 
 every walk of life, be found useful to her who is, by the animat- 
 ing love of the Lord Jesus, disposed 
 
 " To seek the wretched out, 
 And court the offices of soft humanity." 
 
 Another advantage may also be gained, by a manifestation of 
 the kindly solicitude for the improvement of domestics, here pointed 
 out. In cases where the secular tuition of young persons has been 
 neglected, it will be generally found that their religious and moral 
 training has been equally uncared for. Let the Christian lady 
 evince a real desire to improve the temporal condition of those be- 
 neath her influence, and she will soon find that the best affections 
 of the heart are opened to the reception of instructions of a highe
 
 LADIES WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 aud still more important character. Hard indeed must be that 
 heart which can resist the influence of genuine kindness exercised 
 in a friendly Christian spirit. We once had the pleasure of see- 
 ing a young servant baptized in the faith of Christ, while those in 
 whose service she was, and two others, highly respectable per- 
 sons, answered for her at the font. This beautiful meeting to- 
 gether of the rich and the poor, took place in one of the most 
 splendid parish churches in England, and left on our minds an im- 
 pression which will never be effaced. 
 
 In the foregoing pages we have endeavored to lay before the 
 young votary of the needle, such instructions as we hope will be 
 found sufficiently clear to enable her to produce many a delightful 
 specimen of her assiduity, taste, and judgment. We have sought 
 to be concise, without being obscure ; and to give plain directions, 
 without making our readers mere imitators, or copyists. One fault 
 which is to be found in all the books on these subjects, which -we 
 have seen, we have carefully avoided ; that is, the giving a list of 
 the various colours to be employed in the fabrication of each ex- 
 ample given. Nothing can be more absurd, and mischievous than 
 this. The young work- woman can only exercise her judgment, to 
 any extent, in this department of her labors. The various stitches 
 she must form according to the prescribed rule ; because, in most 
 instances, they can be performed in no other manner ; but in the 
 choice of materials, and colors, she should have free scope : here 
 judgment, taste, and fancy, should range untrammelled by rules and 
 forms ; and yet this is rarely done, because the lady is taught to 
 rely upon her patterns, and scarcely ever to consult her own sense 
 of beauty or propriety. We see the effect of this, in the sameness, 
 and monotonous appearance of almost all kinds of fancy-work : 
 and we have endeavored to do our best, to introduce a more cor-
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 159 
 
 reel taste and principle into this department of the elegant arts, in 
 which females are engaged. We know that much native genius 
 exists among our fair countrywomen ; and we wish to see it ex- 
 pand, as freely as the refreshing breeze, that sweeps over our na- 
 tive hills. 
 
 We have before alluded to the various and interesting uses to 
 which the needle can be applied, and the high moral ends it is so 
 well calculated to promote : and if such be its importance, then it 
 will be readily admitted by all, that he who has made the most im- 
 provements, and produced the most finished specimens of this all- 
 important instrument, has conferred a real benefit upon his race. 
 
 We have a higher end in view, than promoting the acquisition 
 of accomplishments, however elegant or pleasing. We wish to di- 
 rect the minds of those whom we are thus endeavoring to interest 
 and instruct, to the immortal beauties of moral excellence. These 
 works may be made conducive, in a high degree, to the develop- 
 ment of family affection, and the promotion, to a vast extent, of the 
 purposes of genuine charity, benevolence, and friendship. But 
 there is yet a higher kind of use, to which we would apply them. 
 We would have the young lady, who is becoming expert and clever 
 at her needle to reflect, as the beautiful fabric grows beneath her 
 forming hand, that her work, and the power and skill to plan and 
 execute it, is an emanation of the Immortal Mind ; of that Mind, 
 whose creative powers are a faint, but legible transcript of the Om- 
 nipotent Wisdom of the Deity. This thought gives a permanency 
 to what would, in any other light be only transitory as the summer 
 cloud. It is Omnipotent Wisdom and Power, which has contrived 
 and executed all the beautiful wonders of creation ; and that Wis- 
 dom and Power were called into activity by Omnipotent Love. We 
 wish to impress this sublime truth upon the mind of our young
 
 ItiO LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 readers, because we wish them to place their Heavenly Father be- 
 fore them as their pattern and example in all that they take in 
 hand ; and to remember that, as He formed the universe by Wisdom, 
 from Love so all their actions and elegant contrivances should 
 be the result of judgment, guided by affection that they may thus 
 become like their Father, who is in Heaven. 
 
 Indeed, it is only when accomplishments are rendered subservi- 
 ent to the development of moral goodness, that they may become 
 pursuits at all worthy of an accountable being. We were not sent 
 into this world to flutter through life, like the gaudy butterfly, only 
 to be seen and admired. We were designed to be useful to our fellow 
 beings; and to make all our powers and capabilities, in some way 
 or other conducive to the happiness and welfare of our co-journeyers 
 on the path of time. To this end, we wish our fair countrywomen 
 to devote their best attention ; and, in its attainment, to exert every 
 energy which they possess. We wish them to make all the know- 
 ledge which they may acquire subserve some noble purpose; which 
 will outlive the present hour. But to do this, the well-spring of 
 the purest affections must be opened in the soul ; and the elegant 
 productions of taste and genius become vitalized, and animated, by 
 the spirit of love. Thus, and thus only, can the occupations of a 
 leisure hour be converted into efficient ministers of good; and 
 such they will assuredly be found, if practised from right motives, 
 and placed in due subordination to the right exercise of more im- 
 portant duties. The young votaress of the needle, of drawing, or 
 of music, should ever bear in mind, that the time employed in those 
 pursuits, will be accounted lost or improved, by the impartial Judge 
 of all just in proportion as they have been made to serve the 
 puposes of selfish gratification, or to minister to the development 
 of an elevated moral character generous and warm affections and
 
 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. left 
 
 the cultivation of those virtues, which, as essentials ot the Chris- 
 tian character, shall outlive the ravages of time, and qualify the 
 soul for all the beatitudes of a coming eternity . 
 
 In all then that the young lady aims to learn, or to accomplish, 
 let her place a high and moral standard before her, and resolve to 
 render every transaction of her life conducive to her preparation 
 for a higher state of being. Our various faculties and powers 
 were not given us to be wasted, but to be used to the honor of our 
 Creator the comfort and welfare of those around us and, as a 
 consequence of our faithful discharge of our several obligations, 
 conducive, in an eminent degree, to our happiness. No mistake 
 can be more fatal, than an idea that, for what we call trifles, we 
 shall have no account to render. What we call trifles, may be, 
 in their consequence, both to ourselves and others, the most im- 
 portant acts of our lives. It is not by great events that our char- 
 acters are formed ; but by the neglect or performance of our duties 
 in that state of life, into which the Wisdom of our Heavenly 
 Father has seen fit to call us. To elevate the sufferings, sooth 
 the sorrows, increase the comforts, and enhance the joys of all 
 around us, should be the highest aim of a laudable ambition and 
 every endeavor should be most assiduously devoted to the accom- 
 plishment of these important ends. It is, in fact, only when we 
 thus employ our various talents and capabilities, that they are re- 
 ally useful , in any other case, they are only ministers to our per- 
 sonal pride, and selfish gratification, instead of becoming links in 
 that golden chain, by which the faithful performance of appointed 
 duties is elevated to the possession of " a crown of righteousness, 
 that fadeth not away." 
 
 Let, then, the youthful female, as she plies her needle, or exer- 
 cises her judgment or ingenuity, in the choice of colors or mate-
 
 162 LADIES' WORK-TABLE BOOK. 
 
 rials, or in the invention of new developments of creative genius, 
 ever remember to exercise those powers as a Christian let her 
 cultivate, in her inmost soul, the conviction, that all her skill and 
 power is imparted from on high and let her be careful to make 
 all she does, a sacrifice, acceptable to her God, by doing all in the 
 spirit, and under the influence of that sacred charity that bound- 
 less benevolence which ever rejoices, in making its various ca- 
 pabilities subservient to the good of others, and thus gives to the 
 otherwise perishable occurrences of time, an endurance and a con- 
 tinuity, that shall endure for ever.
 
 INDE X. 
 
 Algerine Work, - - - 69 
 Angular Stitch, ... 33 
 Applique, - - - - 84, 89 
 Apron, Girl's .... 40 
 
 , Morning - - - 40 
 
 , Vandyke - - - 40 
 
 for a young person, 40 
 
 Aprons, 38 
 
 , Dress - - - - 39 
 
 Armorial Bearings, - 83, 89 
 Baby's Cap, - - - - 111 
 
 Hood, - --- 112 
 
 Shoe, - - - - 112 
 
 Barege Knitting for Shawls, 115 
 Basket Stitch, - - - 66, 88 
 Bathing Gown, - - - - 40 
 Bead Stitch, - - 127, 145 
 Bead Work, - - - 84 
 Beaufort Star, - - - - 71 
 Beautiful Fringe and Border, 113 
 Bedroom Linen, - - - 54 
 Bee's Stitch, - - - - 101 
 Berlin Wire Stitch, - - 101 
 Biassing, 35 
 
 Binding, 59 
 
 Biroche, A Ill 
 
 Blankets, 54 
 
 Border for a Shawl, - - 124 
 
 Braces, 85 
 
 Braiding, 59 
 
 Braid Work, - - - 84, 89 
 Brief Description of Wools, 22 
 
 Bustles, 41 
 
 Button-hole Stitch, - - 31 
 Cap Border Scollop, - - 140 
 
 Caps, 41 
 
 Cashmere Shawl, - - - 49 
 
 Cast off, To 100 
 
 Cast on, To 98 
 
 Cast over, To - - - - 99 
 Chain Stitch, - - 32, 102 
 
 on Gathers, - 34 
 
 Checked Patterns, - - - 115 
 Chenille Embroidery, - - 80 
 Chess Pattern, - - - 71 
 Child's Collar, .... 41 
 
 Cloaks, 42 
 
 Close Stitch for Waistcoats, 115
 
 164 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Comforter, A - - - - 113 
 
 Comforter, Another - - 113 
 
 Common Plait, - - - - 101 
 
 Common Tatting Edging - 1 55 
 
 Coral Pattern, .... 35 
 
 Corner for a Shawl, - - 122 
 
 Corners, To fill up - - 69 
 
 Cravats, 42 
 
 Crochet Edging, for Collars, 148 
 
 forHdkfs., 150 
 
 Neck Chain, - - 152 
 
 Cross Stitch, .... 65 
 
 Crow's-foot Stitch, - - 102 
 
 Diagram, ..... 61 
 
 Diamond Netting, - - - 128 
 
 Dice Pattern, . 
 
 72 
 
 Dinner Napkins, - - - 56 
 Dividing Line, A - - - 146 
 Dotted Knitting, Baby's shoe 117 
 
 Netting, - - - - 129 
 
 Double Cross Stitch, - - 65 
 
 Diamond, long stitch 72 
 
 Herring-boning, - 34 
 
 Knitting, - 103 
 
 Nightcap, - - - 117 
 
 Open Crochet, - - 144 
 
 Plait Stitch, - 69 
 
 Stitch Crochet, -144 
 
 Double Straight Cross Stitch, 65 
 Dressing Table Covers, - 55 
 Dress Shawl, - ... 49 
 Dutch Common Knitting, 104 
 Edge Stitch, - - - 145 
 
 Elastic Rib, 105 
 
 Embroidery, .... 88 
 
 in Wool, - 80 
 
 with Silk, - 79 
 
 Embossed Diamond, - - 104 
 
 Hexagon Stitch, 104 
 
 Fancy Bobbin Edging, - 34 
 Button-hole Stitch, 31 
 
 Chain Stitch, 
 
 Herring-boning, 
 
 Fan-tail Stitch, - - - 
 Fasten on, To - - - 
 
 off, To - - 
 
 Feather Stitch, - - - 
 French Ground Net, - 
 
 31 
 
 33 
 
 105 
 
 100 
 
 146 
 
 67 
 
 130 
 
 Frills, 42 
 
 Frame, to Dress for Cloth 
 
 Work, - - - 82 
 , to Dress for Cross 
 
 Stitch, .... 82 
 , to Dress for Tent 
 
 Stitch, - - 83 
 
 Gathering, Double, or Puf- 
 fing, ... 30
 
 INDEX. 
 
 105 
 
 Gathering, 30 
 
 Gem, or Set Patterns, - - 85 
 Gentlemen's Belts, - - r 43 
 
 Braces, - - 89 
 
 Collars, - - 43 
 
 Fronts, - - 43 
 Travelling Cap 1 1 8 
 
 Waistcoats, 85, 89 
 German Knitting, - - - 105 
 
 - Pattern, - - 72, 88 
 Gobelin, 85 
 
 - Stitch, -.-- 66 
 Grecian Netting, - - - 130 
 Greek Cap, coarse Chenille, 152 
 
 Habit Shirt, 119 
 
 Half Handkerchief, - - 118 
 Harlequin Quilt, with Tufts, 119 
 Heart Pattern, .... 73 
 
 Hemming, 29 
 
 , German - - 29 
 
 Herring-bone Bag Stitch, - 106 
 
 Purse, - - 118 
 Herring-boning, - - - 33 
 Honeycombing, - - - 36 
 Honeycomb Mittens, - - 136 
 
 Netting, - - 131 
 
 , with 
 
 two Meshes, 131 
 
 , Another kind, 130 
 
 Stitch, - - 106 
 
 Horse-shoe Stitch, - - - 34 
 Housemaid and Kitchen 
 
 Linen, - .... 57 
 Imitation Network Stitch, 106 
 Indian Scarf, .... 49 
 Insertion, Crochet Beading, 15^ 
 Instructions in Grounding, 91 
 Irish Diamond, '---_ 73 
 
 Stitch, 66 
 
 Jelly Bag, 58 
 
 Joining the Threads, - - 146 
 
 Knee Caps, 110 
 
 Knit Herring-bone Stitch," 107 
 
 Knitted Footing, - - 117 
 
 Fringe, - - - - 117. 
 
 Muff, .... 114 
 
 Knitting Stitch, ... 99 
 
 Lace, 73, 88 
 
 - Wave Stitch, - - 107 
 Ladies' Drawers, - - - 43 
 
 Flannel Waistcoats, 44 
 
 Night Jackets, - 44 
 
 Purses, .... 139 
 
 Walking Shawls, - 
 
 Landscapes, - - - 
 Leaf Netting, - - - 
 Long Purse, in Points, 
 Loop Stitch, ... 
 Making Buttons, - - 
 Maltese Netting in Spots, 133 
 
 50 
 85 
 132 
 141 
 100 
 60
 
 166 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Mantuamaker's Hem, - - 29 Netted Cuffs, - - - - 137 
 
 Materials for Plain Needle- Fringe, - - - - 138 
 
 work, ... 17 Opera Cap, - - - 138 
 
 for Embroidery, 21 Scollop Edging, - 139 
 
 for Fancy Nee- Night Gowns, - - - - 45 
 
 dlework, - - 20 Stockings, - - - 122 
 
 for Knitting, Net- Open Cross Stitch, - -108 
 
 ting and Crochet, 21 Crociiet, - - - - 143 
 
 Marking, - - - - 59 Hem, 107 
 
 Medallion Pattern, - - 90 Work Stockings, - 121 
 
 Mosaic Work, - - - 86, 89 Ornamental Ladder Stitch, 108 
 
 Moss Stitch, - - - r 107 Over Shoe, 114 
 
 Mourning Shawls, - - 50 Pantry Linen, - - - - 56 
 
 Narrowing, 99 Pattern for a Light Scarf, 120 
 
 Necessary Implements in Patterns on Canvas, - - 86 
 
 Crochet, 26 Pearl Stitch, ... 99 
 
 Necessary Implements in Perforated Card, - - 86, 89 
 
 Fancy Needlework, - 25 Petticoat Crochet Edging, 149 
 
 Necessary Implements in Petticoats, ----- 46 
 
 Knitting, 25 , Flannel - - 46 
 
 Necessary Implements in Pillow Covers, - - - - 54 
 
 Netting, 25 Pinafore, 47 
 
 Neck and Pocket Handker- Pincushion Covers, - - 55 
 
 chiefs, 45 Pine Apple Purse, - - 115 
 
 Net Cravat, 141 Stitch,- - - 108 
 
 Scarf, 141 Piping, 60 
 
 with Points, - - - 132 Plain Crochet, - - - 143 
 
 Netted Bag, with Ring, - 135 Crochet Bag, in Silk, 151 
 
 Cuffs, with Silk and Purse, - - 152 
 
 Wool, - - 137 Double Crochet, - 143
 
 INDEX. 
 
 167 
 
 Plain Knitted Muffatees, - 120 
 
 Gentleman's 
 
 Purse,- - 139 
 Netted Mittens, - -139. 
 
 Netting, - - - - 126 
 
 Open Netting, - - 133 
 
 Stitch, - - 109 
 
 Elastic Crochet, 144 
 
 - Stitch Open Crochet, 143 
 
 - Scarf, 48 
 
 - Scollop, .... 140 
 
 Plaiting, 60 
 
 Pockets, 48 
 
 Point Stitch, - - -68, 88 
 Porcupine Stitch, - - - 109 
 Princess Royal, - - 74, 88 
 Pudding Cloth, - ... 58 
 Purse, with China Silk, - 135 
 Queen Stitch, - - - - 68 
 Queen's Vandyke, - - - 68 
 
 Quilts, 54 
 
 Raised Embroidery, - - 80 
 
 - Stitch,A - - - 145 
 
 - Work, .... 93 
 
 Raising, 99 
 
 Rib, To 99 
 
 Ribbon Scarf, - ... 48 
 Roman Pattern, - - - 74 
 Round Netting, - - - 133 
 Rough Cast Stitch, - - 110 
 
 Row, A 99 
 
 Rug Bordering, - - 87, 88 
 
 Running, 29 
 
 Russian Pattern, - - - 74 
 Scale of Canvases, - - 21 
 
 Seam, To 99 
 
 Seam Purse, with Beads, - 135 
 Serpentine Stitch, - - - 35 
 Sewing and Felling, - - 29 
 Shaded Silk Netting, - - 129 
 
 Sheets, 54 
 
 Shifts, 50 
 
 Shirts, 51 
 
 Single Plait Stitch, - - 68 
 
 Slip Stitch, 100 
 
 Socks, 122 
 
 Sofa Pillow, .... 150 
 
 Star Pattern, .... 90 
 
 - Tatting, .... 154 
 
 with Eight Points, - 116 
 
 Stitches in Crochet, - - 142 
 
 Stitching, 30 
 
 Stitch, To take in a - - 147 
 , To increase or de- 
 crease a - - - 145 
 
 , Toincr. in Crochet, 147 
 
 Stitches, To cast on the 
 Loops or - - - - 98 
 
 Stockings, 120 
 
 Straight Cross Stitch, - - 65
 
 168 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Strong Knitted Purse, - -114 
 Suggestions as to Patterns, 77 
 Table Cloths, - . . . 56 
 
 Linen, - - - - 56 
 
 Tatting, Open Stitch, - - 153 
 Tent Stitch, - - - . 64 
 Thread, To bring forward a 100 
 
 ,To carry on a, in 
 
 Double Crochet, 146 
 
 Towels, 55 
 
 Travelling Shawl, ... 50 
 Treble Open Crochet, - - 144 
 True Stitch, .... 145 
 Tucks, 60 
 
 Turkish Pattern for a Ta- 
 ble Cover, - - . . 151 
 
 Veil s, 52 
 
 Velvet Stitch, .... 69 
 
 Victoria Pattern, ... 75 
 
 Wave Pattern, .... 75 
 
 Knitting, - - - 110 
 
 Welts, 10 o 
 
 Whipping, 31 
 
 Windsor Pattern, - - - 75 
 Wire Work, - - - 87, 89 
 Working Berlin Pattern, 93 
 
 Figures, - - 89, 92 
 
 Zephyr, A 114 
 
 THE END.
 
 University of California 
 
 SOUTHERN REGIONAL LIBRARY FACILITY 
 
 405 Hilgard Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90024-1388 
 
 Return this material to the library 
 
 from which it was borrowed. 
 
 1 6 ttft
 
 A 000 607 210 2