^.jmmf. THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA IRVINE In Memory of JAMES RAMSEY ULLMAN A Gift of EDWARD MITTELMAN MEMORIAL FOUNDATION RUWENZORI THE TRANSLATION FROM THE ITALIAN HAS BEEN MADE BY CAROLINE DE FILIPPI, nh FITZGERALD. THE ILLUSTRATIONS ARE FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY VITTORIO SELLA, MEMBER OF THE EXPEDITION. < < < Z ^ < E 5 < o > O UJ X en RUWENZORI AX ACCOUNT OF THE EXPEDITION OF H.R.H. PRINCE LUIGI AMEDEO OF SAVOY DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI FILIPPO DE FILIPPI. F.R.G.S. With a Preface by H.R.H. THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI NEW YORK E. P. BUTTON AND COMPANY 29 West 2 3RD Street 1908 h/ In the spelling of the native names the usage established l)y the Royal Geographical Society has been followed. The royalties on the sale of this book will be given to a Fund for the Relief of Italian Emigrants. 2)c^icate^ BY PERMISSION TO HEE MAJESTY THE QUEEN DOWAaER OF ITALY MARaHERITA DI SAVOIA. PREFACE. This book contains a detailed account of the expedition which I led from April to September of 1906, to explore the snow range of Ruwen- zori, upon the borders of Congo and Uganda, in the centre of Equatorial Africa. The book includes the data of observations, and all the facts upon which the geographical and scientific results of the expedition are based. These results I have already given in outline in my lectures before the Italian Geographical Society and the Royal Geographical Society, which were subsequently published in the " Bollettino " and " The Geographical Journal." I had not at my disposal the time requisite for writing myself a full account of this journey. My companions were, for various reasons, equally unable to undertake the task. Cav. Filippo De Filippi had already published an accurate and painstaking account of a previous exploration, in which he liad been one of my companions. It, therefore, occurred to me to request him to write the story of the Ruwenzori Expedition from our notes and journals. Preface. The task was difficult, even with the help of Cav. Uff. Vittorio Bella's splendid photographs, which, in a measure, filled out tlie bare outlines of our diaries. I, therefore, take this opportunity of expressing my deep sense of obligation to Cav. Filippo De Filippi, and of recording the pleasure given me by his acceptance of my proposal. To this volume, which contains a narrative of the journey and of the actual exploration work of the expedition, together Avith the meteorological and astronomical notes, will be added a second volume,* containing the geological and mineralogical report of Dr. A. E-occati, together with reports upon the zoological and botanical specimens brought back by us. I must here tender my thanks to all the distinguished men of science who have collaborated in the study and illustration of our collections. (yO'^^^^^ ^ Gt— «.9— 1.^« Rome, Ai^ril, 1908. * Published in Italian only— U. Hoq»li, Milan. viii CONTENTS. PAGE CHAPTER I. The Discovery and previous Explorations of Ruwenzori. . 1 CHAPTER H. Preparation and Departure of the Expedition from Italy. From Naples to Entebbe 20 CHAPTER HI. From Entebbe to Fort Portal 57 CHAPTER IV. From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — Mobuku Valley . . .100 CHAPTER V. Peaks at the Head of Mobuku Valley 138 CHAPTER VI. Peaks of the Central Group 1G5 CHAPTER VII. Formation and General Features of the Ruwenzori Range . 193 CHAPTER VIII. Exploration of Mt. Speke and Mt. Emin 231 CHAPTER IX. Further Ascents on Mts. Stanley, Luigi di Savoia and Baker. Work at Bujongolo 241 CHAPTER X. Exploration of the Bujuku Valley and of Mt. Gessi. Return OF the Expedition 260 Contents. ArrEXDTX A. PAGE The MorxTAixs of the Moox of Ptolemy's Geoguaphy and the RuwENZoKi I\ax(;e 287 APPEXDIX B. Astroxomic, Geodetic axd Meteorological Observations . . 303 I. — Report on Astronomic Observations .... 307 11. — Geodetic Observations 353 III. — Eeport ox Meteorological axd Altimetric Observa- Tioxs 361 APPEXDIX C. CoxTAixs A Summary of the Geological, Petrographic, axd MiNERALOGICAL ObSERVATIOXS WHICH WERE MADE BY H.R.H. THE Duke of the Abruzzi's PiUwenzori Expedition, together WITH A List of the New Zoological and Botanical Genera AND Species collected in the Rl^venzori Regions . . .381 Summary of the Geological Observations made in Uganda axd in the Ruwenzori Range during the Expedition of H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi . 382 I.— Uganda 382 II. — Ruwenzori Range 388 Alphabetic List of the Minerals collected in the Ruwenzori Range 394 Zoology, New Genera, Species and Sub-species collected by the Expedition of H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi . . 394 Summary of the Plants collected by the Expedition of the Duke of the Abruzzi ox the Ruwenzori Range. . . 397 Magnetic Observations 403 Index 405- ILLUSTRATIONS. Tusks Confiscated by the Government, Uganda Xative Hut in Uganda. .... Caravan on the March ..... Native Porters, Uganda .... Porters' Hut, Uganda ..... A Camp ....... Xative Chief with his P^amily, Uganda . A Chief's Daughters of Bahima Stock . Xative Market in Uganda .... Incense Tree (T) . Mombasa — Port Kilindini .... Mombasa — Portuguese Fort .... The Uganda Eailway ..... Sugar-Cane Vendors ..... At a Eailway Station ..... Port Florence ...... The IVinifred alongside the Pier in Port Florence Natives going to Market, Kisumu A Shed in the Market Place, Kisumu Kavirondo Women Kisumu Market Kisumu Market "Within the Enclosure of the Banana Sellers, Kisumu Off Rusinga Island Xative Canoe with the Prow Among the Sesse Islands Xapoleon Bay, Lake Victoria Shores of Lake Victoria, near Kampala Botanical Gardens, Entebbe . Governor's House, Entebbe . Market, Kisumu of Peace PAGE 3 •5 7 9 12 U 16. 18 22 23 26 27 28 29 3a 31 32 33 34 35 37 38 39 41 42 4S 45 46 48 49 51 Illustrations. Market, Entebl)e . . . . . . Market, Entebbe ...... In the Courtyard of the Equatorial Hotel, Entebbe Native Huts and Plantains .... General View of Entebbe .... Shed in the jNIarket, Entebbe Native Huts, Entebbe ..... The Kampala Road, Entebbe Hanging Nests on the Leaves of a Palm A Road in Uganda Native Hut . A Hilly F.it of Road . Across the Marshes Papyri and Water Lilies Elephant Grass The Native Path . In the Tropical Forest Between Swamp and Forest Plantain (^roves Baganda A\'()nien . Baganda Baganda Women . Pawpaw Tree Porters' Huts Building a Hut Visit of a Chief with his Court, l)iinging Presents Dancing in the Porter's Camp Wrestling Match among the Porters Native Band ...... Between Entebl)e and Fort Poital Camp at Bujongo ..... Camp at Katende ...... Ruwenzori seen from Butiti .... Near Butiti, with Ruwenzori in the background Forest between Butiti and Foit Portal The Caravan on the March .... Xll Illustrations. and Kasongo Oil the Pul)lic Square, Fort Portal Native Hut ..... :\Iarket, Fort Portal Hills near Fort Portal . Fort Portal King Kasagama and his Couit Near Fort Portal .... ^Yomen at Camp Duwona . Acacias on the Eoad between Duwona Between Duwona and Kasongo Ford of Wimi River The Snow Peaks of Ruwenzori, seen fr Mt. Speke (the Duwoni of Johnston) seen from the Lower Mobuku Valley . Ford of Mobuku Eiver Ford of Mobuku River Ibanda . The Portal Peaks on the way up to Bihimga Building Sheds, Ibanda Hillside, below Bihunga Bihunga om the Hima Valley Forest above Bihunga the Mahoma Forest at the Mouth of Tree-Ferns Kichuchu Lobelias in the Heath Forest The Heath Forest "Waterfall at Buamba Bujongolo The Kiyanja of Johnston from Bujong Upper Gorge of the Mobuku Valley Eastern Peaks of Mt. Baker, seen from Edward Peak Mt. Stanley and Mt. Baker, taken from the Stairs Peak of di Savoia ........ The Highest Peaks and Lake Bujuku, seen from Grauer's Mt. Baker (the Kiyanja of Johnston) seen from the West olo Mt. Rock Luii PAGE 101 102 10.3 104 10.5 107 108 110 111 112 114 115 116 117 118 120 121 122 123 125 126 127 128 130 131 133 135 139 141 U3 147 149 151 153 xui Illustrations. Biijongolo Heath Forest below Biijongolo RIt. Cagni seen from Biijongolo ..... Mt. Stanley seen from Freshfield's Col Lake to the West of Mt. Baker — Charred Senecios The Upper Lake in the Valley to the "West of Mt. Baker Head of the Valley to the West of Mt. Baker . Camp IV — Close to the Elena Glacier .... Alexandra and Margherita Peaks from the Stanley Plateau Climbing the South-east Ridge of Ale.xandra Peak Climbing Alexandra Peak Elena and Savoia Peaks as seen from the Stanley Glacier Elena and Savoia Peaks from the Ridge above Camp IV Camp near Scott Elliot's Pass Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the South Ridge of Edward Peak Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the South Ridge of Edward Peak Mt. Stanley from the Edward Peak of Mt. Baker l^orth-west Shoulder of Margherita Peak . . . . Mt. Stanley from the "West, from a photograph taken in the Butagu Valley by Dr. F. Stuhlmann .... Western Side of Alexandra Peak .... Moebius Peak from the West The Foot of the Glaciers flowing West of Alexandra and Moebius Peaks ......... Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the Upper Butagu Valley Savoia Peak taken from Alexandra Peak; Mt. Luigi di Savoia in the Background The Chain of Ruwenzori seen from Butiti after a Tele-photograph b} V. Sella Senecio and Helichrysum in the Upper Butagu Valley Lobelia Deckeni, Senecio and Tree-Heaths . Lobelia in Flower Senecio and Lobelia Stuhlmanni Camp IV— Close to the Elena Glacier .... Mt. Speke seen from the Senecio Forest at the P'oot of Scott Elliot's Col T^It. Speke from the Stanley Plateau PAGE 156 1.57 161 167 169 173 176 177 179 180 181 183 187 188 190 191 200 201 206 207 208 209 210 211 213 222 224 226 228 232 235 238 Illustrations. to Fresh- Mt. Emin seen from the lolanda Glacier ...... Climbing the Alexandra Peak Moebius Peak from the South-east Ridge of the Alexandra Peak Savoia, Elena and Moeluus Peaks, and Mt. Luigi di Savoia seen from the South-east Ridge of the Alexandra Peak .... Fresh Snow on Freshfi eld's Pass Mt. Stanley from Freshfield's Col .... Mt. Luigi di Savoia from Freshfield's Col . The South Ridge of Edward Peak and the Camp close field's Pass ........ Porters in Camp at Ibauda ...... The Bujuku Valley Cam}} IX, Bujuku Valley ...... Mt. Gessi from the Edward Peak of Mt. Baker . The Bujuku Torrent ....... Giant Tree in the Lower Bujuku Valley Ibanda .......... Baganda Village ........ Crater Lake Kaitabaroga, near Fort Portal . Back again on the Shores of Lake Victoria Ripon Falls ......... Head of the Victoria Nile PAGE 241 245 246 248 249 250 251 252 262 265 267 269 271 273 274 275 276 277 283 285 LIST OF PLATES. Sunset on Victoria Nyanza. Coloured Plate, from the painting by A. Fitzgerald Banana Plantation and Hut near Fort Portal. The Tropical Forest From Entebbe to Fort Portal. (Section) Wooded Valley between Entebbe and Fort Portal View between Entebbe and Fort Portal. Panorama Papyrus Swamp between Entebbe and Fort Portal View of Ruwenzori from a hill near Kaibo . Tropical Forest near Fort Portal .... Nakitawa Frontispiece. To face page 65 69 71 81 85 87 93 97 121 List of Plates. The Heath Forest The ^lobuku River in the Heath Forest Flowers on the Terrace of Buamba Bakonjo Porters Panorama taken from Grauer's Rock, Mt. Baker . Upper end of the Mobuku Valley .... Panorama taken from Stairs Peak, Mt. Luigi di Savoia Bujongolo ........ Valle}' to the ^\'est of Mt. Baker .... Valley to the West of Mt. Baker .... The Highest Peaks Alexandra Peak from the South, showing the South-East Ridge ........ Margherita Peak from Alexandra Peak . Mt. Stanley In the Senecio Forest ...... Senecio Forest to the West of Freshfield's Col. Mt. Speke from Edward Peak, Mt. Baker Mt. Liiigi di Savoia taken from King Edward's Peak, .Mt. Baker .... Mt. Cagni Lake Bujnku and ^It. Stanley Panorama taken from lolanda Peak, Mt. Gessi Bujuku Valley .... PAGE To face page 125 )5 129 )5 133 5) 141 '? 143 5) 147 )5 153 ?5 159 5) 167 »> 171 >) 177 5J 181 5> 185 )> 201 )) 229 5) 235 J5 239 >> 247 ?J 257 >> 265 5J 269 5J 273 MAPS. The Valley System of the Ruwenzori Range . Map of Angles measured in the Ruwenzori Chain . Route of the Expedition from Mombasa to Ruwenzori The Peaks, Passes and Glaciers of Ruwenzori Geological Map of the Central Group of Ruwenzori To face page 203 355 End of Vol. CHAPTER I. The Discovery and previous Explorations of Ruwenzori. Stanley's first sight of the Snow-peaks — Ruwenzori and the " Mountains of the Moon " of Ptolemy — Discussions and Dissensions between Geographers — Exploration of Stairs, Stuhlmann and Scott Elliot — Moore discovers the Glaciers at the head of the Mobuku Valley — Repeated attempts to climb the Mountains from the Mobuku Valley — Ascent made by David upon the western slope — British Museum Expedition — First peaks ascended — What was known about Ruwenzori in the beginning of 1906. Ox the 24th of May, II Henry Stanley, in the midst of liis lono-est and most venturesome African journey, while crossing the narrow strip of coast which forms the south-west bankof Lake Albert Nyanza, between Nsabe and Badzwa, beheld for the first time the snowy peaks of Ruwenzori : " When about five miles from Nsabe camp, while looking to the south-east and meditating upon the events of the last month, my eyes were attracted by a boy to a mountain, said to be covered with salt, and I saw a peculiar-shaped cloud of a most beautiful silver colour which assumed the proportions and appearance of a 1 B Chapter T. vast inouiitain coveicd with snow. Followintjj its form downward, I became struck with tlie deep hlue-l)lack colour of its ])ase. and wondered if it porteiidtnl another tornado ; then, as the sight descended to the ^ap hetween the eastern and western plateaux,- T became for the tirst time conscious that what I gazed upon was not the image or send)lance of a vast mountain, but the solid substance of a real one, with its summit covered with snow." " Ruwenzori " is the one among many native names by \\liich, in Stanlev's opinion, the mountain is most widely known in the surrounding region. Of all the explorers who in the preceding twenty years had travelled throuirli these reo;ions and sailed u])on the waters of the lakes at the foot of the chain, not one had suspected the near presence of vast tracts of eternal ice and snow hidden from all eves in tlie imj^enetrable cloak of cloud and mist. In 1804, Sir Samuel Baker had given the name of "Blue Mountains" to the vast shapes faintly seen looming through the mists of the plain to the south of the Albert Nyanza. He did not, however, form anv adeipiate conception of their real proportions. Stanlt^v himself in the December of 1875. wlien actually encamped upon the eastern slopes of tlit^ cliain. relates, l)ut without eonnnent. the descriptions given by the natives of the shining white colour and intense cold of ])eaks which lie could not see but which were said to be towering above liim. Sir Harrv Johnston mentions certain private letters written in 1876 bv Romolo Gessi during his first complete exploration of the shores of the Albert Nyanza. In these letters mention is made of a strange \'ision winch the writ(M- saw in the skv. as if of mountains covered with snow. Possibly lie asciibed this vision to an hallucination. The fict remains that the discovery 2 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. of limvenzori was reserved neither I'or him, nor for Eniiii Pasha, or Mason, both of whom subsequently visited the lake. TUSKS CONFISCATED BY THE (iOVERXMEXT, UGAXDA. Stanley is probably right in attril)iitino- tlie extraordinary lack of atmospheric transparency, wliich renders these moun- tains invisible even in fair weather, to vapours exhaled from the surrounding jjlains and exposed to tlie heat of the tropical sun. Occasionally a breeze sweeps away these vapours. At such times, as if bv mao-ic, the snow-clad rano-es loom into sio^ht only to vanish ao-ain and leave the onlooker in doubt and uncertainty as to the actual reality of the magnificent vision vouchsafed to him. The discovery of tiiis vast system of snow moujitains shedding their waters into lakes, whence one of the greatest Nile branches takes its origin, finally brought to an end that quest after the sources of the classic river which had played so large a part in the history of geographical investigation. 3 B 2 Chapter I. After a lapse of twenty-four centuries the verse of Aeschyhis — ■ " Egypt nurtiu'ed hy the snow " — once more receives its hteral signification. The " Mountain of Silver " (dpyvpovu opos), the source of the Nile, according to Aristotle, is at last revealed. Strange indeed are the vicissitudes of human knowledge. This classical tradition of the Nile issuino; from vast lakes fed hv s^()^^•v mountains was tenaciously preserved througli sul)sequent history. We find it repeated in the description of the " Movmtains of the Moon " taken by Ptolemy, with modifications of his own, from the writings of Marinus of Tyre. The same storv recurs in the writings and maps of Arab geographers in tlie Middle Ages; and again in the works of Western European compilators, such as the Prior of Neuville les Dames and Alphonse de Saintorge. In fact, notwith- standing the absolute lack of any confirmation of their existence, these mountains and lakes, indicated with uncertain forms and doubtful and varying geographical situation, never wholly disappeared from oui- maps of Africa up to the time of their actual discovery. The belief in snow-clad mountains at the sources of the Nile had persisted with peculiar tenacity among the natives of the East Coast. Possibly it received fresh confirmation from time to time through news gathered from the caravans which brought ivory and slaves from the interior. Burton, Speke and Baker heard it again and again, and witli })Ositive affirmation, Ijotli from the Arabs and from the natives of Zanzibar. The discovery of Mt. Kenya and Mt. Kilimandjaro by the German missionaries Krapf and Kebmann in 1848-4'J seemed for the time to settle the question. These mountains, how- ever, are connected neither witli the lakes nor witli the Nile. In 1861 Speke believed that lie liad discovered the '" Mountains 4 The Discovery of Huwenzori. of the Moon " in the volcanic chain which stretches between Lake Kivn and Lake Albert Edward, more especially in the highest of the volcanic peaks, Mt. Nfnnibiro ; but NATIVE HUT IN UGANDA. none of these mountains are covered with snow. Stanley had certainly far stronger grounds for his opinion that tlie " Mountains of the Moon " of Ptolemy are to be identihed M^th Ptuwenzori, which alone answers in all essential points to the descriptions of the ancient geographers. It consists of a vast mountain range covered with everlasting ice and snow and shedding its waters into the basin of the Upper Nile from all its slopes. Rising, as it does, out of tlie midst of a tropical 5 Chapter I. landscape, it fbrins a spectacle at once so imposing and so un- expected as to strike the imagination of tliose who ])ehold it more forcibly than any other feature of the whole region, and so impresses itself upon their memory as not to be effiiced by any subsecpient yicissitude or experience of their journey. The opinion of Stanley, howeyer, met with numerous opponents, inchiding a number of competent geographers. The German explorer, Dr. (). Baumaim, discoyered the sources of the Kaorera, the o-reatest tributary of tlie Victoria Nyanza, in the mountains of Missossi ya Mwesi, in Urundi, a district situated to the north-east of Lake Tanganika. Tliese he considered to be the momitains mentioned l)y Ptolemy : Missossi ya Mwesi does, as a matter of fact, mean literally " Mountains of the Moon." The s\n-ro\niding comitry is called Charo cha Mwesi, whieli means " Land of the Moon." At the same time tlie Katjera. which had been called by Stanley the Alexandra Nile, may certainly be counted as the southernmost and one of the principal sources of tlie Eastern Nile. Li England the theory of Dr. Baumann, in its general outline, has been accepted by Sir Clements Markham. Nt^ither, indeed, has failed to recognize the objection that the small importance and low altitude of the Missossi ya Mwesi scarcely justify so far-reaching a celebrity. The natives of the Unyamwesi are certainly unconscious of the existence of the ''Mountains of the Mooii ill their country. Years ag(», in fact. Speke heard from them a tah^ of a in;ir\'elloHs mountain situated t»» the north of Kasagwe, a region to the west of the Victoria Nyanza. This mountain \\ as said to be so high and so steep that wo one could ever possibly ascend it. and t(» be larely visible because it soaretl u}) into the clouds from which a pure white substance was wont to fall upon it. The Discovery of Kuwenzoii. Other geographers, such as Hans Meyer and Raveusteiii, attempted to prove that Ptolemy meant to indicate the mountains which form and encircle the Abyssinian tahleland. In the ^' Proceedings of the lloyal Geographical Society" for 1901 (}). 513), may be found an interesting discussion which followed the lecture of H. Schlichter on this suljject. The Italian geographer Prof L. Hugues has contributed a note* on this question. He has attempted to bring the limited knowledo-e which was attainable in the davs of Ptolemv as to the geographical position of both the lakes and the momitains into harmonv with the more precise information at our command at the present day, by taking into accomit errors in the mensuration of lono;itude and latitude inevitable at the earlier period. The conclusi(^ns at Avliieli he arrives are entirelv in favour of Stanlevs view. CARAVAN ox THE MAKCII. * See Appendix A. 7 Chapter I. Stulilmami, Scott Elliot, Moore, Johnston and, in fact, all the others who have visited and explored the range of Ruwenzori after Stanley, have accepted his interpretation of PtoltMn3'"s text. Indeed, nnless we admit that the ancient geographers must liave had in one way or another some concealed source of information as to the facts, we find our- selves under the necessity of regarding them as gifted with prophetic powers. Be that as it may, the legend of the " Mountahis of the Moon" is a tale of the past, and Ruwenzori, estahlished at last in its own exact place on the map, known in all the details of its structure, measured in every dimension, no longer runs the risk of l)eing lost from the memoi'v of man. We will now return to the story of its exploration. On the 1st of June, 1888, after his first sight of the snow-clad summits of Ruwenzori, Henry Stanley Tvas forced to retm-n on his track, and, re-crossitig the vast forest of the Congo, to join his rear-guard camp, where one of the ghastliest tragedies recorded in the history of African exploration had taken place in his absence. He (hd not return to RuwtMizori niitil tlie next year, 1889, when lie skirted thi' whole western slo])e of the range. He then tra\'ersed the plain between Lake Allx'rt Kdward and the mountains, and, turning northw ards. followiMl their (^astern slopes as far as the head of Lak«^ Kuisamba. He thus spent more than three months, from April to.Iulv. in the innnediate neighbourhood of the range, and saw the snowv ])eaks agani and again. Wishino" to eatlier more accni'ate knowledii-e of the shai)e and structure of these niountanis. he dispatched Lieutenant W. G. Stairs on a jouinev of exploration among them. Lieutenant Stairs left tliec.inipof l)akokoi-o, :),Sl)() feet above The Discovery of Kuwenzori. the sea-level, aljoiit the heoiniuii^- of Jviiie. He followed one of the north-western valleys of tlie cliain for two (lavs, steerino; for two rocky peaks of a strikhig conical shape (Twin CWies) which had l)een marked from a distance on tlie nortli-west extremity of the range. He reached an altitude of 10,677 feet, about 1,500 feet helow the rocky peaks. Here he came in sight of a snowy peak which he estimated at 1G,600 feet, hut which was not the highest point. Lieutenant Stairs had not an equipment sufficient to enable Inm to remain several days in the mountains. He was therefore obliged to cut his exploration short and descend to the plain. From the appearance and shape of these mountains he tliouglit it possible to maintain their origin to be volcanic. NA'rn'K roitTKits, Uganda. Chapter I. Ill tlie inontli of December, 1899, Stanley at last tiiiislied his ventiiresoiiR' jouniev and reached Zanzibar with Kmin Pasha and his followers. A few months later, Emin Pasha, at the head of a German expedition, set fortli ag-ain to retnrn to the eqnatorial lakes. Abont the beginning of June, 1891, he found himself once more on the westein slojie of Ruwenzori, encamped at Karevia, near the southern course of the Semliki (Issango) river. It was from this encampment, 4,364 feet of altitude, that Dr. F. Stuhlmann, one of the members of the expedition, made a fi\e days' excursion up the valley of Butagu, one of the largest of the western vallevs of the chain. He reached an altitude of 13,32G feet, not verv far from the snow, in sioiit of two snowv mountains. He was oblicred to return, owino' to his limited means of transport and to tlie sufferings of the natives from cold. A good naturalist, a first-rate explorer and a painstaking observer, Stuhlmann was the first to give an accurate description of the successive zones of vegetation in its varvino' forms at different altitudes. He proved clearly that Ruwenzori is not a single mountain, but a real range. He distinguished fonr principal groups to wliich he gave, proceeding from north to south, the names Kraepelin, Moebius (tlic highest peak called Kanjangungwe by tlie natives). Semper (Ngviiiw inihi of the natives), and Weismanii. He was able to })hotograph two of these groups from the upper Butagu Vallt-v. He also showed tliat Stairs' suiTirestion of a volcanic oriiiiii for tlie rauii^e is without foundation. Strange as it may seem, he failed to recogm'ze the presence of true glaciers, but was rather inclined to regard them as mere accumulations of snow. Stuhlmann was succeeded in the exploration of Pnwcnzori l)y the naturalist G. F. Scott Elliot in the years 1894-95. He 10 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. made five expeditions by vaiiuiis routes towards the summits, through the Yeria, Wimi, Mobuku, and Nyaniwaniba Valleys on the eastern sloije, and throno;h the Butao;u Vallev on the western slope. He pushed his way u[) to tlie heads of the Yeria and Wimi Valleys, and reached his greatest altitude (13,000 feet) in the Butaofu Vallev. Stricken witli malarial fever, lacking means of transport, Scott Elliot gave proof of admirable tenacity, but was unable to o-ather anv data regfardino- the reg-ion of the snows. His most interestino- observations are with reo-ard to traces of ancient fflacier action in the vallevs of Mobuku, Nvamwamba, and Butagu, wliich prove that they were at one period filled bv vast o-laciers. Like Stuhlmann, he excludes all possibility of a volcanic origin for these mountains. The most important results of Scott Elliot's exploration are botanical. After Scott Elliot we liave no further record of Ruwenzori for five years, althougli the period of exploration had been succeeded in Uganda by the period of European occupation. The whole time and the entire energies of the English military and civil services were required to deal with serious difiiculties, and with tlie necessity of facing dangerous complications whicli seemed at times to menace the very existence of the newly established Protectorate. It was necessary to depose kings, and to put down revolts with such means, slender and insufficient at best, as were available from a coast several months journey distant. Tlius we reach 1900 without any further addition to our knowledge of the range. In the spring of this year C. S. Moore, at the head of a scientific expedition for the purpose of .studying the fauna of the great lakes, reached the eastern .slopes of Ruwenzori with the intention of attempting the ascent. 11 Chapter T. He had |)ur])()se(l to go up by the Nyannvaiiil)a Valley, wliicli, llo^\•evel■, he failed to reach owiiii;- to tlie hnpossibillty of fordiiii;- the Kiver Mobuku, at that time swollen by heavy rains and (|uite impassable. PORTERS HIT, rf;AM>A. As early as 1894 Captain (now General Sir Frederick) Liigard had pointed out to Scott Elliot tlie Mobnkn Valley as the best ronte bv which to reach the snow. C. S. Moore now started up by tliis ronti', taking with him a small number of Suahili porters besides a few natives of tlie vallev. In spite of nnfavonrable weather, he was al)le to ascend the \alley as fir as its head, and discovertMl f »r tlie first time the glaciers which encircle its upper vwd. lie went up one of these and readied the edge of the terminal ridge, 14,1)00 feet above sea-level. C. S. Moore thus gave us the tirst iri'efutable proof of the existence of o'enuuie ^lacieis upon Iluwcnzori. lie buther- 12 The Discoveiy of Rawenzori. more continned Stuliliuauu .s de.scriijtloii of tlie raiioe recouuiziiii'' from the east side the same distrihutiou of* the peaks into four principal groups. Some three weeks kiter, Fergusson, who had left England with Moore hut had heen delayed by fever at Fort Gerrv (noM' Fort Portal), proceeded up the Mobuku Valley and ascended the glacier to the height of 14,600 feet. Shortly after Fergusson, Bagge, who was employed in the Civil Service of the Toro district and had already made an excm'sion up the valley of the Nyamwamba as far as the bamboo zone, pushed up the Mobuku Valley and reached the glacier. Bagge had a rough path cut by the natives up the valley, which proved a useful guide to subsequent explorers. Sir Harry Johnston, High Commissioner of the Protectorate, accompanied by Messrs. Doggett and Vale, followed this track in September of the same year. His choice of this route was determined partly by the relative facility with which explorers since Moore seemed to have reached the glaciers, and partly by his conviction that the principal groups of the range were in the immediate neighbourhood of the head of the Mobuku Valley. Sir Harry Johnston's expedition reached the glacier and ascended to a height of 14,828 feet, but was unable to reach the ridge. Johnston rebaptized tlie peaks under the names given them by the natives of those valleys, which were, of course, totally different from the names reported by Stuhlmann from the west of the chain. Tlius, the Ngemwimbi, or SemjDer of Stuhlmann, became Kiyanja, while another jjeak visible from the Mo1)uku Valley received the name of Duwoni. Johnston succeeded in taking good photographs of the v^alley, of the Mobuku Glacier and of some peaks. He gave us also a detailed description of 13 Chapter I. the flora and fauna of the mountain district. Like Scott Elhot, he noted traces of glacial action in the Mobiiku Valley, about 3,000 feet below the point wliere is now tlie snout of the glacier. Like all Ins predecessors, he complains of an extra- ordinarv persistence of liad weather. A CXMV. Thus in tlie year 1900 alone the Mobuku Valley had been explored by fom- separate parties. In Auii'ust of the following- vear, W. H. Wvlde and Ward went up the valley and appear to have reached the ridge on the top of the glacier at the same altitude wliicli was reached by Moore, about 15,000 feet. During tht- two following years we have no furtlier reports of the Mobuku Valley until tlie expedition of the Eev. A. R Fislier, who, witli his wife, in Januarv, 1903, arrived at the point wliich had l)een reached by Sir Harry Johnston. 14 The Discovery of Ruwenzori. The geographical periodical '• Gl()l)U.s," puljlished, in 11)04, a hrief notice of an ascent on the chain of Ruwenzori made in April of that year hy Dr. J, J. David. He was reported to have reached an altitude of about 1G,400 feet. Two vears later the " BoUettino " of the Italian Geographical Society published an article by Revelli on Dr. Davids expedition based upon liis own notes. David had chosen the route of the Butagu Valley to the west of the chain which had not been explored since Scott Elliot. Ascending a tributary valley he reached the glaciers in seven days. Through the glaciers he reached a col, covered with ice, upon wliich was a small rocky peak of gneiss about 150 feet hioii. From here he was able to see the vallevs descending on the opposite slope towards Uganda. He was stopped here l^y the evident danger of proceeding alone upon the glacier. The altitude of the pass which he had reached (16,400 feet) seems to have been ascertained by triangulation. The absolute lack of more precise data and of any detailed account of the route which he followed prevents us from identifying the peak which he ascended. Probably David might have been able to point out his route upon one of the photographs taken by Stuhlmann in the higher Butagu V^alley, and reproduced in his book.* In tlie course of the same year, 1904, M. T. Dawe made an important botanical expedition up the Mobuku Valley. This expedition was, however, without results from the point of view of the mountaineer. During the time which had now elapsed since the occupation, a railway line had been opened between Mombasa, on the coast * There is the possil)ility that David ma}- have reached the saddle between the Elena and Savoia Peaks of Mt. Stanley (about 15,750 feet), where a rocky tooth would seem to correspond to his description. 15 Chapter I. of the Indian Ocean, and Port Florence, on the eastern ])ank of the Victoria Nyanza. Port Florence was in its turn coiniected with Entehbe, the capital of U<(anda. by a regular service oi' steamers. It had thus become possil^le to reach the centre of the African continent without difficulty, at small expense, and ^^itban iiiinieiise saving of time. The couutrv was henceforward in a state of peace and security. NATi\E ('nn':i- wnii iiis iamii.v, icanda. After the expedition of David, no explorer avaiU'd himself of these favourable conditions until tlie cud of the year 1*J()5, when interest in liuwcnzori sctMiicd suddcnlv to i-ea waken. Thus it happened tliat at the very iii(»iii('iit when II.Iv.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi was forming iiis plan \'ny an fxpcdilion in this reo-ion, and in the beginning of 1!M)G, wlicn Ik* bad actually 16 Tlie Discovery of Iluwenzori. taken such measures for carrying it into efi'ect, as collecting material and preparing details of equipment, the range was already being attacked by determined mountain climbers bent upon rending the veil of mystery which had so long shrouded its secret. In November, 1905, for the first time in the history of E-uwenzori, a party of expert mountaineers, Douglas W. Freshlield and A. L. Mumm with the guide Moritz Inderbinnen of Zermatt, arrived in the Mol)uku Valley. They found the season especially unfavourable. After waiting for a long time at the upper end of the valley they were forced, by uninter- rupted rains, to abandon the undertaking. They had succeeded in making one attempt, in the course of which Mumm had ascended the glacier, but without reaching the ridge. In January, 1906, the Kev. A. B. Fisher, with his courageous wife, went up the Mobuku Glacier for the second time. In the same year an Austrian mountaineer, R. Grauer, with two Eno-lish missionaries, H. E. Maddox and the Rev. H. W. Tee:art, who dining the preceding year had attained to an altitude of 14,000 feet on the Mobuku Glacier, climbed the high terminal ridge of the valley which had not been reached since 1901. They ascended to the smnmit of a small rocky peak which rises on a depression in the ridge to a height of 15,000 feet above the sea. This peak Grauer named after King Edward. Finally, in October, 1905, a scientific expedition, sent out by the British Museum to study the fauna and flora of Ruwenzori, started from London under the direction of H. B. Woosnani. The other members of this expedition were G. Legge, R. E. Dent, M. Carruthers and A. F. R. Wollaston, a member of the Alpine Clul). Tliis expedition spent several weeks in the Mobuku Valley to collect scientific material, and 17 c Chapter I. in the niteival nuidc expeditions np the glaciers at the head of the valley. First Woosnani alone, then a party consisting of Wollaston, Woosnain and Dent reached, in February, of 1906, the spur of rock on the ridge where Grauer, Maddox and Tegart had gone in Januarv. A few (lavs later AVoUaston and Woosnam attempted to scale the peak which rises above the western slopes of the valley (the Kiyanja of Johnston), Ijnt owing to the dense fog they were stopped on a knob of the ridge at an altitude of 16,125 feet, a little below the actual peak. A cHiEi s i)Ar(;nTKi;s of bahima stock. 18 The DiscoA'ery of lluwenzori. ( )ii tlu' Ist of April, WoUaston, Woosuani and (Jarnitliers, still ])uisiieil l)y l)a;l weather, ascended the rocks heside the Mohnku Glacier and reached a rocky peak 15,893 feet high, which rises to the north-east of the valley, and which they helieved to he tlie Duwoni of Johnston. Two days later, the same party repeated the ascent of the rocky knoh on tlie ridgp of Kiyanja, and the reading of the hoiling-point thermometer gave them this time a somewliat higher altitude (1(3,379 feet). The persistent had weather which hampered them on all these expeditions harely allowed them to perceive that other peaks of the chain rose up towards the north-west, and that they seemed higher than those which they had themselves ascended. Before the departure of the Italian expedition, only vague and inaccurate reports of these ascents had come from Uganda. Nor had any precise and direct intelligence been received from the members of the British Museum Expedition. To ensure a clear understandino- of the facts, I have made out a table of all the explorations of Buwenzori, which joreceded the expedition of H.H.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi. In this table I have given the altitudes as reported by each writer. They are to be taken as approximate only, because none of them are drawn from a series of observations carried out witli the precautions and tlie corrections necessary to an exact result. It is possible tliat, in addition to the expeditions which I have recorded, others mav liave been made by English residents in the protectorate. ()f any such L am ignorant, as no account of them has been published. 19 '^ ^ Chapter I. Explorations of the Ruwenzoki Range from its Discovery, 1888, ur TO Ai'RiL, 1906. Date. Explorers. Route followed. Point readied. Height, feet. June, 1889 W. G. Stairs Russiruhi (1) Valley — 10,677 „ 1891 F. Stuhliii.-iiin Butagu V. — 13,326 „ 1895 G. F. Scott Elliot Yeria V. Wimi V. Mobuku V. Nyamwamba V. Butagu V. — 13,000 >« >> Stephen Bagge ... Nyam\vand)a V. Bamboo Zone ... — JMuf., 1900 C. S. Moore Mobuku V. Terminal crest... 14,900 April, ., Fergusson „ ... Mobuku Glacier 14,600 May, „ S. Bagge ,, ... J, — Sept., „ Sir H. Johnston, AV. G. Goggett, and Wallis Vale ,, ... ?» 14,828 Aug., 1901 W. H. Wvlde, and Ward ,, ... Terminal crest... 14,900 Jan., 190.3 Rev. A. ]>. Fisher, and Mrs. Fisher ,, Mobuku Glacier — April, 1 904 J. J. David Butagu V. Col on the top of the water- shed (?) 1G,400(?) ^ „ W. T. DaNve Mobuku Y. ... Base of the Mo- buku Glacier 1 1905 H. E. Maddo.v, and Rev. II. W. Tegai-t — Mobuku (ilacier 14,000 Nov., 1905 I). W. Fresh field, Mcbuku Y. ... »> — and A. L. Munuii The Discovery of Ruwenzori. Date. Explorers. Eoute followed. Point reached. Ileight, feet. Jan., 1906 Rev. A. B. Fisher, and Mrs. Fisher Mobuku Valley iMtjbuku Glacier — „ 1906 R. Grauer, H. E. Maddox, and H. W. Tegart )) Terminal ridge (King Ed- ward's Rock) 15,000 Feb., 1906 [ H. B. Woosnam ... 55 55 55 ^; )) A. F.R.Wollaston, H. B. Woosnam, and R. E. Dent 55 5) 55 55 15 A. F. Wollaston, and H. B. Woos- nam 55 Knob on the ridge of Ki- yanja 16,125 April, 1906 The same, with M. Cariiithers 55 Peak on N.E. side of the valley believed to be the Dnwoni of Johnston 15,893 55 55 The same party ... 55 Knob on the ridge of Ki- yanja 16,379 As may be seen by this table, the Mobuku Valley was the loute chosen by the greatest number of the expeditions. By this route the high terminal ridge had been reached three times. By tliis route Wollaston and his companions had succeeded in ascending two peaks of* the chain, one of which was estimated at over 16,000 feet high. It would appear that Dr. David must have reached a still higlier point by the western slopes ; but as I have already mentioned, the accounts of his expedition, whicli are at our disposal, are so vague as to render it impossil)le to identify the col whicli he ascended. 21 Chapter I. NATIVE MARKET IX I'OAXDA. Certuiiilv no one uf the forenuineis of the Dnke of the Ahrnzzi liad succeeded in actualJv exphtring the chain, that is to sav, in ohtaiiiing tlie coni})iehensive knowledge requisite in order to describe the general formation of tlie line of watershed, the configuration of tlie mountains, tln^ relative height of the diflterent ])eaks. tlicir connection witli the several vallevs, and tlie extent and position of the glaciers. The chief explorers had observed that the snow-peaks fall into four distinct gi-oups. It was not kn<»\\ii. howevei-, whether these groups wei'c connected hv high ndgrs or dixidcd l)v deep valleys. In tli(^ absence of systematic exploration it was iiii])ossible to bring into relation to one another the (Htl'erent descriptions of j)eaks as seen from diverse points. The confusion between tlie several names gi\en to them increased the ditHcultv of comparing the different reports. In addition to .-ill this, it had been given The Discovery of liuwcn/ori. to only a verv few, on rare occasions and tiuiu a great distance, actually to haye sio-ht of the M'hole chain. ? i INCENSE TREE (?) Under these circumstances, the yiews of trayellers as to the height of the princi|)al peaks, the extension of the glaciers, and the general features of the range were A^idely divergent and based upon scanty foundations. These vaews ^vere either deriyed from a fleeting yision of far-off mountains in great part hidden by lower l)uttresses of the chain, or else based upon knowledge of one single yalley whose surrounding barrier of ridges hid from sigiit all the greater and more important features of the range. 23 Chapter T. Thus it came ahoiit tliat tlie estimated ahitiide of the hio-liest peaks varied between 1 5, ()()() and above 18,000 feet. The onlv trustworthy measurement was that derived from triangulation ajjphed to the peak wliich appeared to Ije the liis^hest. The triaugulatiou was taken from various points to the south-east of this peak by Lieutenant Behrens of the Angio- Gei'man Boundary Commission, The calculations based upon this triangulation gave a height of 16,757 feet. Colonel C. Delme Radcliffe, however, wdio was at the head of this C^om- mission, noted the possibility of higher peaks existing further northward and not visible from the point of observation. The chain of Ruwenzori, witliout doubt the most important group of mountains and glaciers in Africa, and the one mystery still unexplored witli regard to the question of the sources t)f the Nile, promised a fertile lield for research. The arduous character of the undertakino; and tlie uncertaintv as to what obstacles might be encountered were calculated rather to attract than to dissuade so ardent an explorer and so keen a climber as H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi. 24 CHAPTEE IT. Preparatiox axd Departure of the Expedition from Italy. From Naples to Entebbe. Choice of Season^Objects of the Expedition — Organization of the Expedi- tion — Departure from Naples — Mombasa — Lieutenant E. Winspeare falls ill — The Uganda Railway — The Tableland of Athi — Rift Valley — Port Florence — Kisumu Market — On the Winifred — The Gulf of Kavirondo — Sunset on Lake Victoria — Steaming upon the Equator — The Islands — Sleeping Sickness — The Archipelago of Sesse — Arrival at Entebbe. ( )f all the difficulties with which luost of the predecessors of the Duke of the Abruzzi had liad to contend in the exploration of liuwenzori, the o-ravest had lieen the obstinate bad weather, the iiearlv incessant rain, and, in the brief intervals, the dense mist wliicli shrouded the whole region. These untoward conditions gave the utmost importance t(> the decision as to which season seemed likely to Ije the least tnifavourable. Judging indeed by the reports of former expeditions which had set forth in nearly every month of the Chapter II. year, it seemed that one siugie raiuv .season reigned supreme amono- the mountains without any break of fair weather. MOMBASA — I'OUT KU-INDIXI. The fact is that tlie great mountain range, rising Hke an island from tlie \-a.st marsliy plains of Uganda and the boundless forest of the Congo, becomes a centre of attraction for the mass of vapours sucked up by tbe tropical sun, which, condensing aroimd the frozen peaks, form a })ermanent veil of fog and cloud. Thus it bas come al)()Ut tbat inanv a traveller has spent months and months in tbr iiiiiiiediate neighbourhood of the chain witbout once liaving siglit of the peaks, or, at best, fugitive glimjises only. Stairs and Stuldmann in June, and David in April appear to have found climatic conditions sbgiitly more tolerable than the other explorers. Wollaston, however, bad very bad luck in April. Sir Henry Stanley writes in May that he saw the snow 20 From Naples to Entebbe. peaks uncovered "" fVecjiU'iitly, aliii(»st dailv." ( )ii the other hand, Sir HaiTV Jolmston cites the local residents to the efFect that the best months are Xovcinhcr and I)ecenil)er. Freshfield, on the contrary, enconntered tlie verv worst weather in these months. Accounts o;iven l)v tlie missionaries residino- in tlie district of Toro, at the foot of the chain, appeared to concur with Sir WilHam Garstin's report on the basin of the Upper Nile in admitting- the rains to l)e some^^'llat less frecpient in January and February, and in June and July, altliough the atmosphere upon the mountains remained gloomy eyen during those months. The MOMBASA — rORTUGUESE FORT. experiences reported by pioneers were not in agreement with these forecasts which, however, it seemed hetter to accept, as forming the oidv basis for a decision. Tlie Duke therefore Chapter II. arranged to leave Italy in the spring In order to reach the mountains by the beginning of June. The expedition Avas accordingly e4nii)i)e(l in the early months of IDOG. (are was taken to enable it to reap the utmost profit from the exceptional opportunities for scientific investigation offered bv a journev among mountains still almost unknown, and THE UGANDA P.AILWAY. situated in pecidiar conditions in tbe centre of a continent where much still remains to be discovered. The main olyect of the expedition was of course geographical in the strict sense of the word ; that is, to clear u\) the topoo-rapliv of the chain and ascertain tlie heights of the mountains. Tliis work was to be completed by observatit>ns (jii physical geogra])hy, nx'teorology and magnetism. In connection with these aims it was Important to illustrate 28 From Naples to Entebbe. amply by })li(»tooTupliy tin' legioiis traversed. Next in order came geological and glaciological researcli, irichidiiig mineralogv. Lastly, there was every reason to expect that in the yet unex- plored valleys and mountain slopes interesting additions would V)e found to our knowledge of* the fauna and flora of liuwenzori. With a view to carrying out tliis plan of research, tlie Duke of the Abruzzi selected as companions on tliis occasion Commander Umberto Cagni, who had taken part in both of his previous expeditions, and his aide-de-camp, Lieutenant Edoardo Winspeare, to assist in the topographical work and the observations connected with physical geography. The photography was entrusted to Cav, Uff. Yittorio Sella, who liad already accompanied H.R.H. in the ascent of Mt. St. Elias. Dr. Achille Cavalli Molinelli, R.N., wlio had taken part in the Duke's Arctic Expedition of 1900, was once more chosen as medical attendant to the party, and was also to assist Dr. Alessandro Roccati in the collection of zooloo-ical and SUGAP.-CAX K VEXDORS. botanical specimens. Dr. Roccati was furthermore specially entrusted with the aeoloo-ical and mineraloo-ical researches. 29 Chaptor II. it would he ;i waste of words to discuss tlie necessity ot takino- Alpine i;uides on an expedition of which climbhig' was to form the essential feature. Furthermore, as there was every reason to exuect that, in the course of the AT A RAUAVAY STATION. exploration of a mountain range wdiose summits had been estimated by previous travellers at heights varying from 16 000 to over 20,0()() feet, prolonged sojourns above the snow- limit would l)e necessary, the expedition liad to be furnished with the needful ecpiipment for glacier camps, more or less on the lines follow^ed in the ascent of Mt. St. Elias in Alaska. This involved the necessity of taking out Em-opean porters as well as guides, for it was iuipossil)le to count upon the services of the natives beyond the foot of the glaciers. The o"uides chosen for the ex])edition were Joseph Petigax, the intellio-ent and devoted companion of the Didce in the Alps, in Alaska, and on the Polar Expedition, and Cesar Oilier. Both of these guides, as well as the porters, Joseph Brocherel and Laurent Petigax, were from Courmayeur, in the Valley 30 From Xaples to Entebbe. of Aosta. Oilier and Bioclierel liad alicutlv L;ni(l»'(l the Mackiiider-Hausl)uro- Kxpetlitioii to Mount Kenya (East Africa) in 1899. There was also Krniinio Botta, of Biella, tlie assistant photographer of Sella, who liad had experience of roiioh life and exploration in the Caiicasns, in Alaska and in the Himalaya. Lastly there was the cook, Igino Igini, of Acquapendeiite, who had passed an Arctic winter in the Duke's service in the Bay of Teplitz. I will not descrihy at length the preparation of the equipment, to which the Prince attended with tlie same scrupulous care for detail wln'ch had so much contributed to the success of his former inidertakings. It was especially difficult and complicated on this occasion, owing to the necessit}^ of meeting the ret[uirements l)oth of a long march PORT FLORENCE. across tropical regions, and of a prolonged sojourn among ice and snow. Everything was ready by the beginning of April, and on the 31 Chapter Tl. eveuliii^ of the IGth the whole party set out froin Naples on board tlie German liner Biir germeister bound for East Africa. THE "WINIFRED" ALONGSIDE THE riER IX PORT FLORENCE. The distance from Naples to Mombasa, situated on the East Coast a little over four degrees south of the Equator, is about 4,100 miles. The steamers usually take seventeen days on the voyage, \\\t\\ l)rief stops at Port Said, Suez, Aden, and Jibuti. Africa as seen from the Ked Sea is far from attractive. The coast is low and sandy, flat or bounded by dunes. The hills are barren and naked, the country baked by the sun, desolate and sterile. Tlie ports upon the high road of the great trade lines, present a profouiidlv depressing spectacle. Arabs, Turks, and ne- swiftly over tlie surface of the lake. For hundreds and huiuheds of miles on every side stretched the vast regions of Central Africa, unknown up till yesterday, inhabited by that unhaj)])y race which has survived a martyrdom of centuries, crushed under its ft^arful past of slavery, blood- thirsty rulers and murderous wars. To-day this era of violence 48 From Naples to Entebbe. has come to an end or Is on the point of ending. The European, who for years past had bought ivory and slaves from the infamous Arab merchant, is now endeavouring to atone for the past and hopes to bestow a future of peace and prosperity upon the black by means of Christianity and civil organization. England has led the way in this heavy and laborious task, just as she had already taken upon herself the duty of routing out slavery, in the struggle she has carried on Ijy sea and BOTANICAL CxARDENS, ENTEBBE. land practically single - handed for eighty years. The goal, however, is still very far distant. Vast regions are wholly unexplored and out of all European control. Elsewhere the 49 K Chapter 11. inferiority and weakness of the negro are too strong a temptation to his economic exploitation. In many places a state of social secmity appears to have bred sloth and dissoluteness among the natives, together with intemperance and lack of self-control, Mliile every species of disease devastates the wretched and degenerate population. The civilized nations liave hut tlieir own love of justice from which to draw the strengtli and consistency of purpose needful to carry on without liesitation a humanitarian work which demands disinterestedness and self-denial, gifts unfortunately rare in social aggi'egates. On the morning of the 7th of May, by daybreak, the Winifred proceeded on her way, no longer in the muddy and colourless Gulf of Kavirondo, but in the open lake, whose waters are limpid and transparent, of a rich colour between emerald and Ijlue, and as pure as crystal. A few hours after leaving the sliore the land fades out of sight, giving the illusion of Ijeing on the high sea. The Victoria Nyanza is, in fact, surpassed in size only by Lake Superior in North America, and is so vast that it is possible to voyage along or across it for more than 200 miles without seeino- land. It is like the sea, too, in its sudden and dangerous storms which raise up waves as high as those of the ocean, Tlie hydrographic survey of the shore was only finished last year, 1907. The shore line measures 3,200 miles and the survey occupied Captain II Whitehouse seven years. Tlie centre of the lake is still in great part unexplored and gives rise to nmnerous legends \\]\\q\\ are current in tlie country about islands inhabited by eannil)als, shi})s swallowed by whirlpools, monsters whicli inhabit unexplored abysses, and other sucli matters. 50 From Naples to Entebbe. Even when out of siylit of land the voyage is never monotonous. The aspect of the sky varies unceasingly. Vapoin-s and clouds perpetually form, and tlissolve, or gather into dark i tal^^ .. Jt ...Mti^ r If t^ <^ . ^ \ ?*^!^ , , "'ciMI 1 ^B 'wiL_ ■^vi^ ^^M .-■. .-v^ mr^SLi^ ..^ Hnfl iSii^iP i.-'TSr^ri F^C^ ^^^^^ i' 'fV L ■ '.,;«"' GOVERNORS HOUSE, ENTEBBE. storms, while tlie water, reflecting their changes in endless variety of colour and tone, presents a spectacle which is never wearisome. Flights of swallows pass through the air. Swarms of minute gnats dance on the surface of the water like a light mist. These are the only tokens that land is not really far off. The course of the steamers follows tlie equator, roughly speaking, and crosses the northern extremity of the lake from east to west, steering clear of the chain of islands M'liich lie along the coast. These islands form a breakwater, sheltering a wide and practically continuous channel where canoes and small sailing craft can navigate in safety. They vary in size from mere rocks just rising above the water, and whitened hy the deposit of aquatic birds, to islands so vast as to torm a small region in themselves, clad with dense forests, girt 51 E 2 Chapter II. about with irregular and deeply indented coasts, crowned with mountains attaining to a height of 2,000 feet above the surface of the lake, and inhabited by tribes wliicli seem almost to have acquired special characteristics in their long separation from the mainland. The most important and the greatest of all is the Island of Buvuma, one of the group which crowxls around the entrance to Gulf Napoleon, and masks the exit of the Nile from the Victoria Nyanza. Buvuma was formerly inhabited by a warrior tribe wdiich, relying upon a strong fleet, defended its independence with great valour against the powerful kings of Uganda. The sleej)ing sickness has turned into vast graveyards the greater number of the beautiful and fertile islands of the MARKET, ENTEBBE. archipelago. After depopulating whole districts of the Congo, it appeared in Uganda between 1900 and 1902 and has sju-ead further and further, following the main routes of conununication, invading step by step tlie territories of the Baganda, Basoga and 52 From Xaples to Entebbe. Kaviroiido, and making gigantic inroads even to the point of 40,000 victims in one year. The sleeping sickness is especially- fatal to men in the prime of life, and hence whole villages and MARKET, ENTEBBE. islands may be found tenanted by women and children wlio alone have survived. The British Museum Expedition mentioned in the preceding chapter, found in the district of Maniema, south of E-uweuzori, a multitude of natives stricken with the sickness and di'iven out from their villages, only to wander hither and thither in the country and die, untended, by thousands. Hospitals have been started and are increasing in nimiber. Attempts are made to organize help and to encourage emigration from the infected districts towards those which are still healthy, but the means are utterly inadequate to grapple witli the swiftness and the activity of this fearful plague. Sleeping sickness is caused by a parasite, a trypanosoma, discovered by Dr. Aldo Castellani in the brain of patients who 53 Chapter II. have died of the infection. This tiypanosonia is introduced into the system through the sting of a tsetse-fly, the Glossina palpalis (Col. Sir D. Bruce). Occasionally the disease breaks out in the form of acute mania : at other times its development is slow and insidious, with only a slight change in the appearance of the patient ; presently vertigo makes its appearance, with headache and swell- ing of the lymphatic glands of the neck. At last come trembling, somnolence, a quick pulse and an apathy w^hich increases until it reaches the point of torpor or coma. No really sure remedy is known. Sundry arsenical preparations appear to be efficacious, one of them, atoxil, has recently given results which are rather more encouraging, but it is still uncertain as to whether a real cure can be expected. IN niK col KTVAKI> OF TlIK KiJlAlOlllA I, IIOTKL, ENTEBBE, 54 From Naples to Entebbe. On approachino- the north-west corner of tlie lake, the steamer enters a channel l:)et\veen tlie Sesse Islaiuls and the coast. The Archipelago of Sesse, where concessions of land liave NATIVE HUTS AND PLANTAINS. been granted to Italian companies for the cultivation of coffee and the collection of rubber, is the jewel of the Victoria Nyanza. Luxuriant forests cover the great islands down to the very brink of the lake, where the foliage is mirrored in tlie limpid waters. You would esteem it an earthly paradise, yet that charming scene conceals unspeakable desolation. Tlie last forlorn remnants of the inhabitants, decimated by the dire disease, live mourning for their daily bereavements and dreading their impending fate. The Winifred, soon after passing the entrance to Murchisou Bay, entered the Bay of Entebbe and came alongside the pier about 3.30 p.m.. May 7th. The expedition had now reached the end of civilized means of communication, after travelling 4,750 miles in twenty-one days. 55 Chapter II. The Duke of the Ahriiz/j was received on landmg 1)V the High Commissioner of the Protectorate of Uganda, Mr. Hesketh Bell,* who offered him hospitality in liis own house, together with Commander Cagni. The other members of the expedition were entertained by Messrs. G. F. M. Ennis and ^y. M. Carter, both judges of tlie High Court of Uganda, and by Major L. C. E. Wyndliam. Tlie guides were i)ut up at tlie Equatorial Hotel, kept by an Italian, Signore Berti. * In October, 1907 the High Commissioner of the Protectorate received the title of " Governor." 56 CHAPTER III. From Entebbe to Fort Portal. Entebbe the Capital of the Protectorate —The Six Hills of Kampala— H.H. Dandi Chwa, Kabaka of Uganda— The Missions— Commander Cagni's Illness — Equipment — Formation of Caravan — Departure from Entebbe General Characteristics of the Country Traversed — Ba^anda Yillao-es— Climate— Baganda and Suahili Porters — Encampments— Visits of Chieftains — Exchange of Presents— The Camp of the Blacks- Mitiana— Lake Isolt— The Uganda-Toro Frontier — First sight of Ruwenzori — Butiti — King Kasagama — Arrival at Fort Portal. Entebbe, or Port Alice, founded by Sir Gerald Portal barely fifteen years ago, is the political and administrative capital of the Uganda Protectorate. The Pro- tectorate includes much more than the old kingdom of Uganda, having been enlarged by the addition of the kingdoms of Toro, Unyoro and Ankole, which form a semi-circle to the west and south of Uganda proper. To these we must add the district to the east of Lake Kiop-a and around the eni'eat extinct volcano Elgon, as well as the vast regions known as the " Nile Province" and the " Rudolf Province" to the north. 57 Chapter III. The town is situated upon two hills at the extremity of a peninsula formed by two arms of the lake. The streets are wide and lined with houses, built according to the usage of the tropics, with wide verandas surrounded by gardens full ot flowers. The site is enchantinof, overlooking: the sfreat lake, dotted \\itli i)icturesque islands ; the wire netting, however, over windows, verandas and doors, tells its o^^-n story of malaria. (iKNKrvAL vn:\v of Entebbe. There is an hotel, there are Protestant and Catholic Churches, there are three liospitals, several connnercial firms (among others a l)raiic]i of tlie '•Italian Colonial Society" established in Zanzibar), and siiiidiy shops and stores kept by Indians and Goanese. Along the shore of the lake stretches a considerable botanical garden, which contains a collection of the flora 58 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. of the region as well as experimental cultivation of exotic plants, such as European vegetables, Howers and fruits, coffee, tea, cotton and even vines. Manv of these are already cultivated widely and with good residts in the Protectorate. At the northern end of the town is the public market, the habitual haunt of the natives who congregate in great numbers around Enteljbe hoping to get a job or an engagement as caravan porters. SHED IX THE MARKET, EXTEBBE. The native villao-e, numberino- some hundred liuts in all, lies further inland, among plantations of bananas, fields of maize and lofty trees. A fine and well-kept road leads from Entebbe to Mengo or Kampala, the native capital of the kingdom of Uganda, about 20 miles off. built upon a group of hills, each one of which is occupied bv a different connnunity. Mengo is the 59 Chapter TIL royal hill, Xakjisero is tlie name of the hill where tlie English officials reside ; the biiildinos and churches of the tln^ee different missions, one Anglican and two lioman Catholic, French and English, governed each by its l)isliop, occupy the three sej)arate hills, Namireml)e, Rubaga and Nsambya. Last NATIVE HUTS, ENTEBBE. of all comes Kampala, " the hillock which was contemptuously given to Captain TiUgard by Mwanga, where the first seed was planted from which the British Administration all over these vast territories grew and prospered."* Sir Harry Johnston, " The Uganda Protectorate," Vol. I., London, 1904. 60 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The common centre of these diverse conOTeorations is the bazaar, with shops well stocked with all sorts of wares, kept by Indians. The present King of Uganda is His Highness the Kabaka Dandi Chwa, aged barely thirteen years. He was placed upon the throne in 1897, when his father Mwanga was deposed. His ascent to the throne was attended by the ceremonies conse- crated by national tradition, with one important exception. That portion of the solemn and ancient ceremonial which consisted of a large slaughter of subjects, was on this occasion omitted. THE KAMPALA ROAD, ENTEBBE. The constitution is unchanged. The child King has three Regents by his side, the Katekiro, or Prime Minister, the Supreme Judge, and the Treasurer. He governs w\t\\ tlie assistance of a Council composed of twenty chiefs of districts and of sixty-six notables who represent all the districts. The members of this CVnnicil are chosen by the King, but the 61 Chapter III. representative of the Britisli Government has the right of veto. It is to be lioped that Dandi Chwa, carefully educated according to civilized principles of modern justice, may retain no trace of the bestial ferocity of his ancestors, and that the royal palace of Mengo may never again see such horrors as steeped it in blood in tlie days of the Kings Mtesa and Mwanga. HANGING NESTS OX TlIK LEAVES OF A PALM. HiiiKbf'ds of liuinan victims sacrificed at a word from a sorcerer, wholesale slaugliter of the population for a whim, or 62 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. on account of a dream, or to quiet the superstitious terrors of the Kabaka, torture, mutilation, daily murders of wives, of servants, of slaves, the coinitry emptied of women to fill the harems of the kings or chieftains, all this formed a condition of ^ Xy ^JH A ROAD IN UGANDA. affairs whose incidents were so especially ghastly tliat they would seem to surpass the limits of human possibility if they were not proved by the unanimity of the descriptions of witnesses who saw Uganda in those days. The neighbouring kingdoms were in a similar condition, while the jjopulation of the islands were cannibals. The transformation of the country in so few years is miraculous, and the greater portion of the merit is to be attributed to the Missions. These Missions are tlie direct continuation of tlie first Anglican Mission Avhich came to Uganda in 1877 on the invitation of King Mtesa, transmitted to England by a letter of Stanley, which has become historical. 63 Chapter III. This was followed two years later by the French Komaii Catholic Mission. 'I'hc persecution muler Mwanga, the murder of Bishop Hanning'ton, the torture and bnrnino- alive of many native Christians failed to put a stop to the work which progressed with extraordinary rapidity, imdisturbed by the civil wars and political changes. In 1895, an English Koman Catholic Mission was added to the list. The ninnber of native converts to Christianity increased yearly l)y thousands, while' Islamism remained stationary. Manners and customs rapidly improved. Education followed NATnE HUT. moral training. The missionaries created a written language for the country where noiif had heretofore existed. Schools grew up by hundreds beside the ehurehes. 64 ^ From Jilntebbe to Fort Portal. At the present time many villages around Entebbe and Kampala are entirely Christian. The l)lacks may be seen any day squatting on the ground around the catechist. Throughout the coinitry numbers of natives may be met going or coming from their labour in the fields, praying or reciting the rosary on their way. They are all clad in tlie long white tunic with wide sleeves, which has almost universally replaced the older garment made out of strips of the bark of a special variety of fig-tree, beaten until they become soft and flexible, and stitched together with great art. On Sunday, in the spacious churches of Mengo, which aiford room for several thousands of persons, men, women and childen may be seen worshipping with exemplary fervour and decorum. On the other hand, it cannot be denied that Islamism exercised an important and beneficial influence in rescuing the country from its barbarous condition. In many districts the Mohammedans are still in the majority. The Italian expedition remained at Entebbe from the 7 th to the loth May to prepare in detail the organization of the caravan. During this time Commander Cagni unfortunately fell a victim to the unhealthy climate, taking the malarial fever on the 8th of May. This persisted, in spite of quinine injections, and was complicated by intestinal inflammation. It soon became necessary to remove him to the hospital, which was situated in a healthier position, and afforded better accommodation. Owing to this calamity, the Duke lost invaluable assistance at the very moment when the work began to be difficult and complicated. The luggage of the expedition had been carried by porters to the courtyard of the Equatorial Hotel, followed by a crowd 65 F Chapter III. of inquisitive children and adults. Here the cases were opened, and their contents verified and inventoried. The whole camp outfit, including tents, beds, sleeping bags, stools, tables, baths, cooking utensils, tlie hermetically sealed cases containing clothing ; the })hotographic materials, and the materials for the zoological, botanical and mineralogical collections ; the arms and ammunition, formed 1 1 4 loads weighing about 47 lbs. each, all numbered and so marked as to be immediately recognizable. A lULLY BIT OF ROAD. The commissariat formed 80 additional loads of the same weight, eacli one of whicli contained rations for 12 persons during one day. The supplies had Ijeen laid in on a calculation of a sojourn of 40 days above the snow-limit, and of a period of the same lengtli lielow, to allow for the journey from Entebbe to the mountains and back. The rations were in tin boxes, soldered and enclosed in thin wooden boards. Tlie only difier- ence between th«' higli-mountain rations and those for the lower regions was that tlie latter were without tiiincd meat, because 66 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. it would be easy to rind fresh meat supplies tlirougliout the inhabited reo;ions. According to calculation IIU porters were needed to carry the entire equipment. In addition to these there were the caravan leaders, the personal servants, or " boys," with their own porters, the natives who were needed to take care of the horses and mules, and who were to drive the oxen, goats and sheep which were provided for the sustenance of the caravan, ACROSS THE MARSHES. and other natives, with sundry minor attributions. The total mounted up to above 300 persons. Mr. J. Martin, Collector, who had special experience in organizing caravans and journeys, had caused the men to be selected and got together during the months preceding the arrival of the Italian expedition by Sig. BuUi, an ex-employe of the Italian Colonial Society, who was also to accompany the expedition. 67 F 2 Chapter III. Three horses and three mules had been provided for occasional ridiiiu', beside two rickshaws holding- one or two persons each, to be drawn or pushed l)y natives, for use on the relatively level portions of the road. I'Al'YUI AND WATER IJLIES. Kvervthiiig was ready by the Titli of May. The Duke, however, lingered three days more, as he could hardly make up liis mind to leave Cag-ni ])eliin(l. At last it became obviously necessary to set fortli without liiin. Tlie probable duration of his illness was too uncertain, and further delay would have in\olved the risk of letting the best season pass, not to mention the risk of some one else falling ill, and so «'ndangering the whole .success of the expedition. They could only hope that Cagni, 68 iky THE TROPICAL FOREST From Entebbe to Fort l^ortal. thanks to the devoted care of the excellent Doctor Hodges, might recover in time to overtake them. With tliis object in view, he was left provided with all the equipment necessary to permit of liis setting out as soon as he should be sufficiently- recovered. On the 14th of May, H.K.H. and the rest of tlie party took leave of the kind hosts who had done so much to make their stay at Entebbe pleasant for them. The Collector, Mr. Martin, as representative of the Protectorate Administration, accom- })anied them as far as the frontier kingdom of Uganda with an escort of twenty-seven native soldiers and sixty-seven porters. ELEPHAXT GRASS. Early on the morning of the 15th tlie porters with their caravan leaders, the boys, and the soldiers were gathered in the courtyard of Berti's Hotel, where the loads were distributed, M'hile the Prince and his companions were taking leave of Cagni 69 Chapter III. and endeavouring to cheer up his spirits with the hope of overtaking them. Bv 8.30 the porters had their loads on their heads, and started on their way in a long file, with deafening- shouts, on the wide and even road to Kampala. The caravan THE NATIVE PATH. numbered about 400 individuals, and the vanguard Avas nearly out of siofht bv the time that the Prince and tlie other members of the expedition started in their turn. Soon after leaving Entebbe the road enters under the majestic vaults of a tropical forest. The distance from P^ntebbe to Fort portal is about 180 miles, with an ascent of some 1,165 feet. This ascent may be regarded as falling into four sections belonging to separate river systems. The first of these collects the waters whicli flow soutli ward into the River Katongo, a tributary of tlie Victoria Nyanza. Lake Tsolt belongs to this section. Tlie second and third basins contain the afHuents of the 70 FROM FORT PORTAL TO BUJONGOLO SECTION Horizonral Scale 1 1 000,000 Vorhcal Scale 1 5.000 The heights oF F'Portal and Entebbe are based upon barometrical observations tal^en in the botanical garden oF Entebbe and near the residence oF the Collector oFF^ Portal m OQ 1 LU 1- z llJ 3861 3861\ L.VICTORIA FROM ENTEBBE TO FORT PORTAL S ECTION Horizontal Scale 1^ 1,000.000 Venl-ical Scale 1: 5.000 The heights oF F^Portal and Entebbe are based upon barometrical observations taken in the botanical garden oF Entebbe and near the residence oF the Collector oFF' Portal From I^ntebbe to Fort Portal. Misisi, which takes its course northward and flows into the Albert Nyanza. A last rise brings the traveller to the watershed between the tributaries of Lake Albert Edward and those of Lake Albert. This distribution is brought out in the vertical section annexed. IX THE TROPICAL FOREST. This vast region, which forms a sort of tableland between the three lakes, is intersected in every direction by ridges of hills, lower, steeper and more crowded to the east, more dis- tinctly marked into ranges to the west. 71 Chapter III. Tlie colour of the earth is a brick-red throughout tlie district. The vegetation is distributed according to accidents of the soil. The high ground, the top of the hills, and their slopes are covered with deep grass and occasional single trees or groups of a few trees set in biusliwood. The valley bottoms where water flows are covered Mith luxuriant forests. Where the waters L ^ In f^ I'.ETWEEN SWAMP AND FOREST. stagnate stretch "vast swamps covered with gigantic papyrus, under Avhose sliade flourislies a rich gro^vth of aquatic plants. From tlie higher lidges, as far as the eye can reach, stretches an midulating plain, whose rounded hillocks, covered with deep yellow gi'ass, are diversified by low-lying strips of dark m-een forest. From Entebbe to Fort Portal. Tlie word grass, l)y tlie way, is hardly appropriate to a growth which, while reaching a height of from 10 to 20 feet, is at the same time so dense as to make it practically impossible to deviate from the path, and others far more analogy to a huge bed of reeds than to a meadow. It is called " elephant grass," and is indeed a pasture appropriate to such a herd. From time to time the elephant grass makes wav for herbaceous- vegetation on a more modest scale, not more than three feet hio-h, and dotted with innumerable flowers. J'LAXTAIX GR(AES. The natives are in the habit of settino- lire to the oTasses during the dry season. Possibly the vast fires thus kindled, and wliicli spread especially on tlie heights where the earth is dry and 'where the wind fans the flames, destroy the young trees, and so hinder the formation of forests except in the sheltered valleys beside running water. The fact is that, as a rule, the trees which stand here and there among the tall grasses, and give the country the cliaracteristic look of a park, are all of 73 Chapter III. very consulenible size. The principal species are acacia, mimosa, euphorbia, erithryna, and spathodea, both these last with brilliant scarlet flowers. At the foot of these trees, anioncj; tlie brushwood and low plants, is nearly always to be found one of those curious cones constructed by termites which characterize all Central African landscapes. Tt \\()uld seem as if some reason must exist for their invariable connection with these isolated groups of trees. Possibly the termites, by collecting earth in one spot, flivour the development of bushes and creeping plants, which in their turn serve to shelter the g-rowth of some forest tree until its roots are lirnily established in the soil. The forest zones in the valleys along the brooks are real oases of virgin forest. The luxuriant trees over a hundred feet high, diverse species of acacias, majestic palms (Borassus and Raphia), cassia and dracsena, are overgrown with climbing plants, and entwined with the long ropes of giant lianas. Troops of monkeys are frequently seen leaping from branch to branch with shrill cries. The white-tailed Colobus is the commonest species. The forest soil, even on days of blazing sunshine, remains damp and elastic. Off the path the whole ground is one carpet of deep moss. The contrast with the open tracts enhances the charm of the forests. After crossing a slope scorched by the sun, the traveller enters into the profound shade heavy witli the perfumes of acacia, mimosa, jasmine, and honeysuckle. The district is fiiirly populous, but the inhabitants are so hidden away among th(-ir banana groves and impenetrable grasses that it is possible to pass quite close to villages without noticing them. They consist of clusters of huts usually situated half-way up a hill, surrounded by tufts of 74 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. bananas, little cultivated fields and a few forest trees. The huts are of the usual conical type. The circular roof thatched with grass straw is artfully constructed to reach down to the ground on every side except over the entrance, M'here it is cut sliort and BAGANDA WOMEN. projects into a low narrow porch. The interior is encumbered by the numerous pillars and posts which support this heavy roof. Some of the huts are surrounded by an enclosure, or even by several enclosures, so that three or four courts must be crossed to reach the house. 70 Chapter III. Tlie land around the huts is cultivated for a short distance only. As is iisual in tropical countries, the indolence of the population limits the production of the soil to the amount which is strictly necessary to sustain life. There is no trace of co-operation. Each family owns its hut and its field, which it i;.\GANDA. cultivates for its own exclusive use. Agricultural labour is performed entirely by women. They cultivate plantain, egg- fruit, potatoes, sweet potatoes, beans, maize, dura, cotton, sesame and sugar-cane. A delicious fruit, always cool and refreshing, is. the pawpaw. 70 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The banana, or plantain, is the staple of diet. There are several varieties. Besides the sweet banana, which is eaten ripe and raw, tliere is a plantain ^^■hicll is gathered unripe and eaten cooked. From tlie flesh of another variety a sort of bread is made. The juice is pressed out and forms a refreshing, cool '"'^l^^'C^ jJ^^^M ^BA /; I i^^l^S ^11 s. '"a^m' BAGANDA WOMEN. drink called Mbisi. This becomes alcoholic and intoxicating if allowed to ferment, and is then called Mwenge. Finally the leaves and stalks are used for various purposes. The origin of the cultivated banana is uncertain. Botanically it is quite different from the wild native banana, and it is doul)tful whether it could have been derived from it. 77 Chapter III. The path, which seems at times hke a sort of deep trench cut through walls of high grass, and then again opens out into a tolerably wide road over tracts of plain, proceeds as straight as any ancient Roman highway, crossing liills or following their ridges, descending into valleys and piercing forests, or running over reaches of watery swamps on a low viaduct. This latter is constructed by cutting down papyrus stalks and canes I 'AW I 'AW TREE. and throwing tlieni across the road from side to side, thus forming a thick stratum upon which the path is built of sand and earth, beaten hard and strengthened on either side by piles driven deep into tlie iniid. This is the ancient road which existed before the British occupation. It is kept up with great care by gangs of lialf- 78 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. naked women, old and young, who weed o\it the grass and smooth the way witli little native spades. The first part of the road, where tlie hills are nearer to one another, runs incessantly up and down the steep inclines. After Lake Isolt the slopes become gentler, with intervals of plain, and the marches are consequently less fatiguing. The swamps, too, diminish as the traveller approaches Fort Portal, and the country takes on a healthier look. porters' huts. The temperature is pleasant in the early morning, but towards midday it l^ecomes very hot, although, fortunately,, during the hottest hours the sky is nearly always covered with clouds, which, be they thick or thin, are always sufficient to veil tlie l^lazing rays of the sun. Nearly every day or night there is a violent but brief thunderstorm with a gale and torrents of rain. Happily, the Italian caravan liad no experience of the terrible storms, accompanied ])y water- spouts, cyclones and dangerous electrical discharges, whicli 79 Chapter IK. inundate, tear up, and destroy everything upon tlieh* path, and are said to he not infrequent in Uganda. The changes of weather are, as a rule, sudden. In a few minutes the sky, up till tlien clear or scarcely veiled with a liofht cloud, p-rows hlack as niidnio-ht and threatening. With ^qual rapidity, after a hrief period of rain the heavy dark clouds are dispelled In' the hlazlng sun. / 1 \ 1 \ ^^ m 1 H^iniiiiitfi lAiiii^yli ^^ptfrld ^■1 ^ k 1 MM '^^^H Iw V' \ ' ' 4PVI ^^HflfeflL.^^ '^z- / - -'''^'■■''"^ y >/// , -j[^-:^, \ ■^ '-• lUILDING A HUT. The duration of tlie marches was from three to six hours, during which period from 10 to 18 miles were covered. The porters, as a rule, walk fast ; in some places tliey nearly run. The caravan usually started with the dawn, ahout 5.30 ; and stopped hy midday so as to rest duii ng the hot hours. On the march tlu- caravan covered nearlv half a kilometre. 80 cq > I From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The diii of the chattering, laughing and shouting was a httle diminished in the hard bits of road only where a steep up-hill would set even those who were not loaded panting. From every little village along the way the natives ran out, curious to see the sight and exchange chatter and laughter with the porters. Now and then the travellers met a caravan bringing salt from Toro, or ivory from the Congo, or even a white trader travellino; with his own escort. The native escort exercised a certain discipline over the numerous party, and intervened from time to time to adjust quarrels and disputes started, as a rule, by the porters who, in order to lighten their own labour, would requisition by force any other natives whom tliey might meet on the road. The blacks are on the whole childlike, good-natured and peaceable, or ill-tempered and savage, according as they are managed. With a little tact and goodwill, not wdthout necessary firmness, it is easy to direct their impulsive natures. The great majority of the caravan consisted of Baganda, the real native population of Uganda, whose anthropological characteristics are so diverse as to presuppose the product of mingled elements. Some of their features are distinctly negroid ; as, for instance, woolly, jet black hair ; the nose sunk at the root, flat and wide ; broad, protuberant lips and projecting ears. But the prognathism is not marked, and the brow is wide and not retreating. They are usually lean, not muscular, and do not give the impression of a very strong people. Their manners and customs seem more advanced than in many other African tribes. They neither dye nor grease their skin ; they do not tattoo their persons nor cover themselves with decorative scars, and with tlie excej)tion of the children 81 G Chapter III. and a few women they are not loaded with necklaces and bracelets. Many a traveller has been astonished by their complex social order, a verital)le f'endal system, wliile in their legends and traditions, in tlie desis^ns of their household utensils made of plaited grass, in the form of their musical string instruments, in their astronomical symbols carved upon horns, and in certain burial rites, indications have been suggested of relations and contact M'ith ancient Egypt. VISIT OF A CHIEF WITJI II IS C'OUKT, BRINGING PRESENTS. The Baganda have preserved the history of their ancient dynasty bv ])ure verbal tradition. It consists of thirty-six names of klims, and must date back as far as the fourteenth or fifteenth century. The Suahili porters formed a smaller part of the caravan than the Baganda. The Suahili are a cross between Arabs and Bantu negroes. Coming originally from the coast, they are now scattered over tlie whole of Central Africa. 82 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. The encanipnieiits were always situated at a certain distance from the villages, in places selected beforehand and prepared for the purpose. There was usually a hut where meals were provided for the Europeans, and one or two sheds to slielter the equipment from the weather. Around tlie sheds stood tlie European tents. Mr. Martin formed a second smaller camp. Eno-lish and Italian flao-s were flown over each. The tents were surrounded by a zeriba or enclosure of plaited cane DAXCIXG IX THE PORTERS' CAMP which served less as a defence than as a means of dividing- the European camp from that of the native porters. The native porters would arrive at their destination at a run, sinorino; and shouting;, throw down their loads hastily on the spot fixed for the purpose, and immediately set to work to build huts for their own shelter. The huts would spring up all around with the most marvellous rapidity. The method of 83 o 2 Chapter III. construction is most iii^cnious. A ninnl)ei- of sliglit rods or flexible canes are stuck into tlie earth in a circle. Their upper ends are bent so as to meet in the middle and interwoven so as to form a dome. Upon this are placed l)undles of grass disposed in such a manner as to leave a narrow opening for tlie entrance. Tlius in less than a quarter of an hour a vast grassy plain is transformed into a considerable village. While the work proceeds, there arrive from the neighbouring villages long- files of women and old men carrying on their heads parcels of WKESTI.l.Nc; MATCH AMUXCi THE PORTEKS. fruit and of sweet potatoes wrapped in plantain leaves. Swarms of naked children accompany tiiem. Tlie tiny ones are carried on their mothers' backs in a fold of their garment. In this way the caravan lives entirely on food supplied by the population of the regions crossed. In the meantime the Duke would receive a visit of ceremony from some chieftain, whose arrival in camp, attended witli tilt' p<»inj) befitting his dignitv, had \)vl'\i heralded by 84 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. diveis luesseiigei's. Now the oreut niaii liiniself would appear, clad in a flowing white tunic, or a mantle of more or less costly material, and with sandalled feet, surrounded bv retainers bearing the umbrella and stool, the insignia of power, and followed by a train of ministers and a bodyguard armed with lances and staves. The rear was usually brought up by a crowd of natives driving goats and sheep, or even calves and bulls, and ])earing ^.•* ■■■-'BKl 9k ^dj^^H Hy^'O^^j^HDi ^^^ I^^^^^^^^^H ^^^^^^^--V ^SmslSI^ HHHBHH|^^^^^^^^^^^^H Bkij^i^ m «^^ . ;|P.,JQH k^Blht 1*^^ ^^^^^^B Br^^^ ^^^ NATIVE BAND. baskets full of fowls, eggs and bananas, to be presented as gifts to the strangers. A noisy band with drums, trumpets, horns and flutes would either follow or precede the cortege. Some- times the chiefs would come with their escorts as far as the boundary of their own territory to meet the expedition, and accompany it to its halting-place. As to the nuisicians, they 80 Chapter TIL would frequently accompany the expedition for days together, leaving- it honour with their cruelly persistent music. The Duke, or some member of the expedition chosen to repre- sent him, would next return the chieftain's visit and present a gift, usually quite moderate in proportion to the value received. Tlie dwellings of the chiefs are circular huts, with walls of plaited reeds and the usual native roof The interior is divided l)y curtains into various rooms. The walls are adorned with illustrations from European periodicals. The floors are covered with mats and skins. There is usually a fair supply of chairs and cushions. The whole is clean and orderly. The hut is surrounded by several zeribas. In the courts between the zeribas are huts for women, slaves, soldiers, etc. On the first days of the march the need of attending to inniuneraljle details, in order to effect the best arrangement of the whole and systematize the work of each, left the members of the expedition very little time to enjoy the picturesque aspects of tlie adventure. Later on, as each one grew accustomed to his special attributions, every hour became a source of new enjoyment. The most remarkable and changeful spectacle was presented 1)V the swarming native camp, witli its deafening racket and perpetual excitement, dominated by the incessant rolling of drums and the inharmonious strains of uncouth musical instru- ments, the loud cackling of })oultry, tlie bleating of flocks and lowing of cattle. Now and again noisy, jabbering crowds would .surround dancers or wrestlers. Women who had come to fetch food for tlir portns, men from the neighbouring villages, small children, even, would remain in camp to add to the hubbub and confusion. 86 3 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. Groups of native converts, strangely contrasting with their heathen surroundings, would pray in a loud \oice, or recite the rosary. In addition to the rosary, they were often adorned with BETWEEN ENTEBBE AND FORT PORTAE. crosses, medals and reliquaries hanging around their necks. Here a Mohammedan would be worshipping on his Ijit of carpet at sunset, while yonder the native escort ^^ould he going through their daily drill. As evening closes in, the camp is lit up hy hundreds of fires, around which the porters sit until far on in the niglit, roasting the sweet potatoes, or boiling tlie plantains which, with the addition occasionally of a little dried tisli, form their sole diet. After a march of five or six hours over heavy ground, carrying fairly substantial loads on their heads, this frugal single meal was amply sufficient to their simple needs. Banana wine is a rare luxury, while water is scarce and filthy, with a disgusting smell and taste even when boiled. Chapter 111. The various iiienil)ers of the expedition were l)y no meunn idle during canip. The Duke was in tlie liabit of attending in person to the sorting and verifying of the equipment ; to the meteorological observations taken with instruments arranged in the little camp observatory wliich was set up at each camp in the most suitable position ; and to the observations of lonii'itude and latitude. ^^ r^_ ,/v CAMP AT I'.UJON'GO. At each halt Dr. Cavalli was immediately besieged by crowds of native patit^nts from every district, while one or another of the porters was sure to make daily demands upon his treatment. Sella, besides his ])liotographic work, would spend part of the afternoon in roaming in the neighbourhood of the camp with Koccati and Cavalli in (juest of botanical and zoological 88 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. specimens. Contrary to expectation, the lower forms of animal life proved to be rare. Possibly they have been annihilated by the termites whicli invade and destroy everything. Native men and boys from the neighbouring villages would join eagerly in the quest, and show visible amusement at the sight of Roccati treasuring up diminutive insects, spiders and scorjDions, and putting by lizards and chamreleons. CA^IP AT KATEXDE. Now and again a shooting party would set forth. Guinea- fowls and doves abound in the plantations around the camps. The region is rich in elephants, zebras, antelopes, lions and leopards. This sort of game, how^ever, requires special beating, and is not compatible with the rapid marches of a caravan bent upon a totally different aim. It was only very seldom and 89 Chapter III. ni a great distance that an occasional antelope was seen fleeing from the approach of the party. Towards evening the air would grow cool, and after dinner the Europeans would gather round the now far from unpleasant warmth of a great blazing fire which served also as protection against mosquitoes. At night the latter became a real plague ; through long and wakeful hours you would hear their drone diversified l)v the crv of the sentinels and the strano-e trill of the hiu/a-hnga, a tiny bird which builds its nest around camping places. Between three and four in tlie mornino- the reveille was sounded by trumpets and the camp at once filled with din. It took tlie caravan little more than an hour to get ready to start. Tlie porters fell upon their loads and set forth with their usual shrill cries. The journey from Entebbe to Fort Portal took fifteen days. On the 18th of May they encamped at Mitiana, near a branch of the French Roman Catholic Mission at the foot of a hill, on the to}) of which stood a small shrine. They exchanged visits with the Missionary Fathers, who sent presents of excellent European fruits and vegetables. On the following night they reached Bujongo in sight of Lake Isolt, a lake rich in fisli and dotted witli wooded islands. This and the following cam})s were fortified with strong hedges and palisades, because the country was infested with lions to such an extent that the natives would not risk travelling by night. On tlie 2oth of May they crossed the border between the Province of Uganda and tlie Western IVovince, which includes the districts of Toro, Unyoro and Ankole. In addition to the native chieftains of the new district, followed by their respective courts, the Prince was here met by the Sub -Commissioner of the 90 From Entebbe to Fort Portal. province, Mr. A. F. Kiiowles, who was to accompany the expedition throughout his own jurisdiction, while Mr. Martin returned with his escort to Entebbe. RUWEXZOKI SEEN FRO:\I BlTITl. Henceforward the reveille was no longer sounded by trumpets, but by the rolling of the Unyoro drums. The game now seemed to become more abundant. Numerous deep •elephant tracks crossed the path. Herds of antelopes became more frequently visible in the far distance. Vultures, hawks, and other l)irds of prev wheeled in the sky. A new feature of the landscape was the granite formation, which here and there pushes its way through the soil in rounded hummocks somewhat similar to the rocks known as movtonnces, in regions which have passed through a glacial period. The grass became less deep, the trees and flowering shrubs increased 91 Chapter III. in miinbers, while l)et\veen the hillocks were open spaces of irround nearly harren save for a m-owtli of redchsh-yellow PTass mingled with low ferns. The plantain groves diminished in extent and were in })art replaced l)y sweet potatoes and beans. The district was less thickly jjopulated than that whicli preceded. The march was often lieavy and fatiguing. The weather had changed for the worse, and frecpient rainfalls made the track muddy and slippery. As the expedition drew nearer to the Lakes Albert and Albert Edward, their impatience to see the chain of Kuwenzori NK.Vr. JUTiri, MITJI laWKXZoRI IN THE lUCKdROUND. grew acute, and from tht^ moment when they entered the Tora district their attention concentrated itself upon the western horizon, especially when the ])ath led them over the top of some i\ ^ o s From Entebbe to Fort Portal. hill. Twice they faueictl that they had sight of snowy peaks, but it was an illusion created by white clouds upon the horizon. Finally, on the morning of the 28th of May, from the top of certain hills to the north of Kaibo, which form part of the watershed between Lake Albert Edward and Lake Albert, on a day when the sky was clouded but the air clear, they suddenly saw against the sky to the westward the snowy peaks of the o-reat chain, which were about 45 miles off, and looked as if they were suspended in the air, for their feet were enveloped in mists while a heavy rack of clouds liung so low over the sunnnits as nearly to rest upon them. Seen from this point, the mountains appear divided into three main groups. Of these, the central one is dominated by a characteristically cloven peak, covered with snow, which seems to be the highest of all, and which is separated from the group to its south by a deep notch ; the third group is to the north or north-east of the central mass. The foot of the glaciers, which come down from the high ridges, is hidden by the projecting spurs of the range. They encamped that day at Butiti, where the Missions (Protestant and Koman Catholic) were abundantly hospitable. The camp was protected by a strong palisade guarded by sentinels, and great fires were kindled all around. Occasional roars heard distinctly through the silence of the night showed that these precautions were far from superfluous. Two weeks later, at Misonga, not far from Butiti, a lion made its way into Cagni's camp and succeeded in escaping unharmed, thanks to the darkness of the night. On the following morning, May 29th, about an hour and a-half from Butiti, the Prince and his companions climbed a liill close to the path in order to get another look at Pun\enzori, 93 Chapter IT I. which was here visible in ah its splendour. They had now come further north-west, and hence the northernmost group of the chain appeared nearer to the central group, which from this point also appeared to be the highest of all, and to show the greatest extent of glacier. The sky was clear over the mountains to westward, but dark and stormy in the east. Right and left stretched an undulating- plain with low rounded hills, reddish or earthy yellow, dotted with dark green patches of euphorbia, or of the light and finely cut foliage of the acacia. Farther oif, the landscape melted into tlie misty distance, and finally vanished from sight near the foot of the mighty spurs of the range. Moore was reminded in these regions of the Alps as seen from the Piedmontese or Lombard Plains, but the comparison does not hold good. The difference is profound, although so subtle as to baffle analysis. It is true that the far-off slopes clad with elephant grass, and the swamps hidden under tufted papyrus resemble our hills and our cultivated valleys. There is no definite sign to indicate that those far-off plains, which to all appearance might consist of meadows and cornfields, maize plantations and orchards, are in reality the lair of elephants, buffaloes, antelopes and lions. Yet still the picture is in a different key, with a grim solemnity of its own. The likeness is the fruit rather of a mental comparison than of a real, direct impression from Nature. Signs of the handiwork of man are nearly totally absent. The huts of the natives, their banana groves and their simple crops are only just visible on closer inspection of the landscape, of which they form an insignificant detail, hardly touching its virgin and 2)rimitive aspect. A little further on the party crossed their last forest, the finest of all that had lain across their path, and swarming with 94 FOREST BETWEEN BX'TITI AND FDKT PORTAL. TROPICAL FOREST NEAR TORT PORTAL From Entebbe to Fort Portal. monkeys. After ;i loiin- nuircli of sewn hours they reached Fort Portal on the same dav. On approaching Fort Portal, H.II.H. was received by the Kiiii;- of Toro, Kasagama, a handsome man, above the average stature, with an open and intelligent countenance. He was accompanied by a large escort carrying numerous gifts. After crossing the belt of cultivated fields around the city, thev entered the wide, clean street of Toro blazinsr with sun, and flanked on either side bv the chiefs of the region who liad come with escorts to receive the expedition. The street was crammed \\'ith people, and especially \\ith noisv children. Fort Portal was fomided in 1891 by Capt. Lugard after he had deposed Kabarega, who was an ally of Mwanga in liis revolt, and had set Kasagama upon the throne in his place, thus ending a period of frightful persecutions and raids which liad nearly depopulated the country. The site of Fort Portal is verv liealthv. It stands at a heio-ht of 5,000 feet above the sea, in a basin bounded to the west bv the rano-e of Kuwenzori, which slopes down towards Lake Albert in a long chain of gradually lessening spurs, and to the east bv tlie liills wliich divide the basin of Lake Albert Edward from that of Lake Albert, ( )f tlie o-reat range onlv the hio-hest points are visible, wlien hv exception thev are not covered with clouds, above an advanced buttress known as the Portal Peaks. To the north-west, at the foot of the mountains, are scattered volcanic cones among- which lie numerous small crater lakes. The European residents of Fort Portal, including ladies, are scarcely fifteen in number. Tliey consist of the Sub- Commissioner, the Collector, the Conunander of the troops, and the Catholic and Protestant Missionaries. The dwellings 97 H Chapter III. of tlie Enu,lisli ()tiiei;ils, including tlie residence of the Siib-Coniniissiont^r, suiroinided l)y a liedge and a palisade, stand upon a liill. Upon the neighbouring hills are the Missions and the Hospital. Upon another hill to tlie south- east, covered with extensive banana plantations, are situated the dwellincrs of the Kino- of Toro. On the low iiiijiind THE CARAVAN ON TIIK :\[ARCn. between the hills stand tlie sli()])s, like those of Kampala, in long lines on either side of a m ide avenue planted with trees. There are also barracks for native troops, and the usual market. There are many natives here of the Bahima tribe. These are liandsome people, alleged to be of Ethiopian origin, tall of stature, slender of figure, with finely proportioned lind)s, a From Entebbe to Fort Portal. somewhat lighter colour tluiii the Bagaiida, and regular features similar to those of tlie white races. They are all shepherds ; they Mear a cloak of skins, and speak a language of tliPirown. The pure type is growhig rare on account of tlieir niinghng with tlie Baganda tribes. The expedition was hospitably entertained in Fort Portal at the residence of Mr. J. (3. Haldane, the (collector. The porters encamped on the low ground at tlie foot of the liill. CHAPTEK IV. From Fokt Porta], tu Bujonuolo — Mobuku Valley. Two (lays at Fort Portal — Meeting with Dr. Wollaston — Hesitation about the Route — Departure from Fort Portal — Duwona — Ford of the Wimi Iviver — Kasongo — The Peaks of Kuwenzori once more in sight — P^ntrance into the Mobuku Valley — ll)an(la — The Duwoni of Johnston — Bihunga — Mahoma Valley — The Moraine of Nakitawa — Discovery of the Bujuku Valley — Bakonjo Porters — Crossing the Swamp — Kichurhu — The Heath Forest — The Flowery Plain of Buamba — Bujongolo — An Tcy Night on the Equator. The expedition spent two whole days at Fort • Portal with bad weather and clouded sky. In spite of these inifavourable conditions, the Duke was al)le to complete some astronomical observations. An inter- mediate meteorological station was established at Fort Portal. The observations taken here were to be compared later on both with those subsequently to be taken at Entebbe, on Lake Victoria, and aniono- the mountains, in tlie valleys and on the sunnnits, in order to supply full (lata i'oi' ail exact calculation of altitudes. At Fort J\)rtal, the party had the pleasure of making tlie acquaintance of the Jvev. A. B. Fisher and of Mrs. Fisher, who had twice ascended the Mobuku Vallev as far as the 100 From Fort Portal to lUijoiigolo — Mobuku Valley. i;lacier. Another interesting and pleasant ac([iiaintance was that of the Alpine climber, Mr. A. F. WoUastoii, wlio liad left the British Museum Expedition for a few davs upon the invitation of the 8ub-Connnissioner, Mr. Knowles, and had come down to Fort Portal <»n purpose to meet the Prince. ON THE rUHLIC S(,>UAUE, FORT TORTAI.. As was mentioned in Chapter I, in the months immediately preceding the arrival of the Italian Expedition, WoUaston had made the ascent of some of the peaks at the head of the Mobuku Vallev, from the top of which he had made out through the mist two other snowy summits to the north-east, higher tlian those which he had ascended and seeming to rise above the western slopes of the chain towards the Congo. He had not been able to make out whether tliese liigher mountains Avere connected with the ])eaks of the Mobuku A^alley. 101 Chapter IV. Tlie mouiitaiiis seen and drawn hy Stuhlmann at tlie head of the Butagu Valley to the west of the chain would not, in this case, have heen the same as those seen from the east, which the Italian expedition had observed from Kalho and Biititi. It seemed, therefore, a better plan to attempt tlie ascent from tlie western slope. These accounts perplexed the Duke greatly. If, on the one hand, lie followed the route of his predecessors up the Mobuku Valley there was the risk, on reaching the peaks at the head of the valley, of seeing his way to the higher summits cut off by some deep valley or insuperable ridge. If, on the other hand, lie should resolve to try the western slopes, it would become necessary to make a long detour across the low regions, through malarial districts, in order to turn the southern end of the NA'ilNK HIT. chain and reach the ScuiHki Valley. Here, tliere would be uncertainty as to tlu- sutHciencv of local resources to feed so numerous an expedition, ;iiid still greater micertainty as to From Fort Portal to Uiijoiigolo — ^lobuku Valley. the disposition of the natives, who were known to he frequently hostile and tnrl)nlent in tlie Contro District. Of the two alternatives the latter seemed certainly to offer the more seri<»us risks. The Dnke of the Ahrnzzi decided MARKET, FORT PORTAL. therefore to follow the more direct and shorter I'oute, ascending the Mobuku Valley and arriving comparatively quickly among tlie liigh mountains, where it would be possible to obtain data for forniino- a decision as to the futm-e route. The two days at Fort Portal had been days of complete idleness for the native porters, and liad been sufficient to undermine and break up the discipline to wdiicli they liad become accustomed during their tw^o w^eeks of steady work. When the drum and tlie trunqjets sounded the reveille at 4.30 a.m., June 1st, not one of the whole troop was ready. Boys and porters dropped in late, one by one, and it took over two hours to get the caravan into marching order. At 103 Chapter TV. last it started, with the usual shouts, preceded by the English and Italian flags. The bacrofaofe was already diminished bv the rations consumed during the preceding fortnight. It was now further reduced by a number of personal etiects wliicli were left behind at Fort Portal. Consequently, a portion of the porters had been dismissed, and those retained were selected among the stronsfest and healthiest. The Prince was accompanied on his start from Fort Portal by Mr. Knowles, the Collector, Mr. Haldane and Mr. Wollaston, HII.I.S NKAi; J'OIIT I'dltTAL. who was on his way to r<'join the British Museum Expedition in tlie Nyamwamha \ alley. An escort of twenty iiativt* soldiers accomjianied the caravan. Their wives had c«»iiit' to hid tlit'in farewell. The form of their 104 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — ]Mobuku Valley, leave-takino- was as .s<)l)er and dli'iiitied as ijossihk* : racli O O 1 woman knelt before her husband, who placed one liand upon her head. As has l)een said, Fort Portal is situated u})<)n the hei^-hts wliich divide tlie l)asin of Lake Albert from that es covered with elephant orass ; and then KING KASAGAMA AND HIS COURT. crossing- by steep ascents and descents the foot of divers spurs of the chain. The way skirts the mountain so closely that the snowy peaks are hidden from sight. Numerous torrents had to be forded. Only one of these was of a certain size, namely, the Wimi, which, when swollen, may become a serious obstacle. The expedition found it about oO feet wide, the 107 Chapter IV. water very cold, tVoiii two to tlu'ee feet deep, and tlie ciuiciit faiilv swift. A line of men was formed in the water, stretcliinii- from one hank to the other, and the })orters with tht^ir loads crossed np-stream of them. In this way any man who slipped NKAIt I'OKT I'UKTAL or stafo'ered was iiiiiiie(hatelv caiiiilit and held ; and in the space of ahout one hour tiie whole caravan was gathered on the opposite^ l)aid<, which was very stee}) and covered with thick "•rass. Not a sini-le |)arcel had heen lost. 1 OS From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — IMobuku \^illey. The camp of Kasoiicro was reached before noon. This camp stands high upon one of the spurs of tlie rano^e. Lake liuisamha was just visible througli tlie mists Mliieh hid the plain. Between Kasongo and the Mohuku Valley there was still one last valley to l)e crossed, known as tlie Hima. Soon after leaving- tlie camp, on the morning of the .'h'd of June, a portion of the high chain appeared in sight to the west- ward, framed between the sides of tlie vallevs. First appeared two rocky peaks'^ with a great glacier at their feet. As the expedition proceeded southward, and went down into the Vallev of Hima, these peaks were gradually hidden ; while to tlieir right, that is northward of tliem, came into sight, Ijit hv hit, the double peakf covered with snow, which, as seen from Kaibo and Butiti, appeared to form part of the central group, and to be the hio-hest of all. The Hima Biver was crossed upon a light bridge, and after tliis the patli ran up the valley for a short distance westward, then turned southward again and ascended the slope of the buttress, behind which lay the Mobuku Valley. It was still early in the morning when the expedition reached the top of the ridge, and commenced to descend the other slope into the Mobuku Valley. Meantime the peaks of Buwenzori continued to come out one after another to the westward. To the riglit of tlie double snow peak, and separated from it bv a low, wide col, apjieared another group of peaks,;J: wliicli extended northward in the shape of an ice ridge edged l)v a Viig cornice, under wliicli stretched a glacier. * Elena and Savoia Peaks of the map. t Alexandra and Margherita Peaks. I Mt. Speke {see illustrations, pp. IIO-IIG). 109 Chapter IV. Tims, as the caravan liad proceeded from north to soutli, the peaks of the chain liad })ecome visihle in inverse order from soutli to nortli. In this wav two rocky peaks had come into view, connected hy a wide glacier with the twin peaks covered with snow. These four too-ether formed what from Kaiho and Butiti appeared as the central group of the chain.* Next had followed a wide depression, after which the ridge had risen again and formed two great peaks of rock and ice whicli WOMEN AT CAMP DLWOXA. stretched northward so as to form a long snowy crest. ( )nly this last group, which was, without douht, the Duwoni of Sir Harrv Johnston, Mas visil)!*' from the Mobuku Valley. * Mt. Stanley. 110 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — ^Mobuku N'allev. The path now went down to the Mol)ukii Ivi\fi'. wliich flows m a bed about 25 feet deep hollowed out thi(»iii;li ancient alluvial deposits. This torrent is some (iU feet \v\(h-. the ACACIAS ox THE UOAD UETWEEN DUWOXA AM» KAS(i.\(;m. water nearly three feet deep, and the current violent. Tlie water is cool, but of a yellowish hue, which does not make it attractive to drink. While the caravan was collecting on the ])ank. the chiefs of the neio-hbourino; villao-es were arrivino; from either side of the valley, with their attendants bearing stools and uml)rellas and follow^ed by troops of natives. They all took part in helping the caravan to cross the ford. A rope was stretched across the current, and numbers of natives took up their 111 Chapter IV. positions below the rope to give greater security. The porters, witli tlieir loads, straggled across \ip-streain of the cord and holding by it. In this way the wliole |)arty was soon reassembled on the other bank of the Mol)ukn witho\it accident and resumed their way, now ascending the wide level valley bottom as far as the camp of Ibanda. Ibanda (4,540 feet) stands upon tlie right bank of the Mobuku River at a point where the valley widens into a plain more than one mile wide, shut in hv rounded liills and covered BETWEEN ])I'W<)XA AND KASOXGO. with deep grasses and a few scattered trees. A small tributary valley opens near tlic camp. Further uj), tlie valley appears to be com})letelv shut in by a bigb and steep peak which 112 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — ]\Iobuku Vallev. lonns one of the Portals. Bevoiid this, airaoi, rises tin- snowy mountain which lias been already described, and which Sir Harry Johnston liad named Duwoni. The general trend of the valley is from east to west. Marks of glacial action are evident. A little above Ibanda, on the opposite side of the valley, lies a stretch of marginal moraine about thirty yards deep. A number of spurs seem to be tlie remains of frontal moraines cut off by the torrent. There are numerous boulders and round smooth rocks of the tvpe known as mouton.nees. Finally, looking down tlie valley, a transversal ridge has every appearance of a terminal moraine. Round about the camp are numerous villages and plantain pToves. The natives are naked, with strino-s of sliells round their loins from which bits of cloth are suspended. At Ibanda there is not the usual shed for eating under cover. Fortunately the weather was fine, and a few trees near to the torrent offered shade for the midday meal. Not a single fisli was to be found, in spite of long and attentive inspection of the water. The evening was perfectly clear and the light died away slowly. The familiar sound of the torrent called to memory quiet evenings passed in some remote valley of our own Alps. Below the camp blazed numerous fires which now and again seemed extinguished and rekindled as the dark shapes of the natives flitted busily to and fro in front of them. The mountain walls of the valley stood out clear on the starry sky. The snows of Duwoni glittered softly in the bright starlight. The prospect seemed very hopeful. The Italian expedition were more fortunate than their predecessors in the circumstance that, before even reaching the feet of the mountains, they liad sight of many peaks, and were able to ascertain the important 113 1 Chapter IV. fact that the douhle peak seen from Kaibo and Butiti as in the centre of tlie chain and a])})eaiing- to be the highest of all, is not the Dnwoni of Johnston. FORD OF AVI.^n Itn'Elt. Leavinu- tlie camp of Iljaiida tbe march followed rapidly across tlie liiL;li plain, wliicli was swampy here and there, with u-roves of tall acacia and draca^iia and dotted with romid smooth l)Oulders. Soon they reached tin- foot of another buttress, a spur of tlu^ rii;-lit-haiid slope of tlie valley. Here the path became so steep at some points tliat even those who had no load to carry got out of breatli. Tlie natives, who during tbe first ])art of the stage kept up tbeir usual clieerful hubbub, now became silent as they panted up the wearisome ascent, and scattered far and wide, covering a long reach of the M'ay. lU From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — Mobuku Valley. As the valley rises It puts on little V)y little a grim and mysterious aspect. The forbidding precipices of the Portal peaks seem absolutely to close its deep western recesses. About half-way up tlie spur is a narrow grassy ledge, where are perched a few native huts. These are the last human habitations of this valley. Beyond everything is desert, 'i'he place is called Bihunga, 1,760 feet above Ihanda, and 0,300 feet above the sea. Here the British Museum Expedition liad spent Alexandra aiul .Mariflierita Peaks. Mt. Speke. I THE SNOW TEAKS Of RUWENZORI, SEEN FROM THE HIMA VALLEY. several months in collectincr material for research. A s])acious hut still stood as a record of its sojourn. The tents were pitched around this hut with (HtHculty, 115 Chapter IV. owing to the small space t)t' level ground availal)le. The porters encamped as best they could on tlie steep slope. The view of the mountains was entirely cut off by the spur upon which the camp stood. On the other side they overlooked MT. SPEKE (the DIWONI OF JOHXSTOX) SEEN FROM THE T.OWER ISIORrKU VATJ.EY. the plain of* Ibanda, and down the wide valley till the point where everything disappeared in the misty atmosphere. The near hill sides were clad with dense forest diversified by small clearings covered ^\•ith deep grass. There was scarcely any sio"n of animal life. Near the camp they saw lobelias for the first time. There were many dracsenas, and a most l)eautiful erithr3''na covered with flame-coloured blossoms. A narrow strip of small cultivated fields surrounds the tiny village, wliich is inhabited by a few Bakonjos. naked in spite of tlie cold of tliis liiifli region. 116 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — Mobukii \'allev. At Bihunga the Duke l)ei;-aii to reduce the number of his caravan. Henceforward the way was to lead througli uninhabited regions where the commissariat would offer increasing difficulties. An agreement was entered into with tlie chiefs of the villages around Ibanda bv which thev were to send parties of porters regularly up the valley with provisions. In addition to the limited nature of the resources of so small a district, the actual distance to cross and the difficultv of the marches would increase as the expedition proceeded upwards. FORD OF MOBUKU RIVEIt. Tliey left beliind at Bihunga a portion ot tlie baggage, consisting of some fortv loads, including all those personal 117 Chapter lY. effects which hecanie unnecessary in the cold chmate of the liigh mountains, and a niunher of the boys were also dispensed with. Tliese, as well as the superfluous porters, went back to Butanuka, a village half-way between the Mobuku Valley and FOTU) (IF MolUKT lUN Kit. Fort l^>rtal, wliieli now became the halting-place for all the Basfanda who wcn^ sent back from the mountains. Last, but not least, the twenty native soldiers of the escort, commanded by Sergeant Green, remained at Bihimga, where they formed a link l)etween tlie expedition and the lower valley. The jxtition of the supplies and equipment whicli was left beliind was sheltered in the Imt of tlic P)ritisli Museum Expedition. On tilt' ni(»niing of the .'")tli of Jmie, tlie caravan again set out upon its way. An extremely narrow and very steep ])ath tlu'ough thick brushwootl and tliornv branches, wliich 118 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — ]\Iobuka Valley. scratched the face aiul liaiids of the travellers, led up the spur of Bihunga, and then crossed the tuiy Chawa Valley and redescended into the Valley of Mahoma, an important tributary on the right hand of the Mobuku. The descent was steep, through a dense forest of tall trees which climbed high up on the precipitous sides of the valley. Numerous specimens of a line conifer, the podocarpus, were overgrown with a tangle of creeping plants diversified witli brilliant orchids. Under the trees was a dense leafy under- growth mingled with ferns of numerous species, forming so impenetrable a brushwood that the path became a veritable tunnel, where one had to walk bent double for long tracts. The bushes and creeping plants covered many fallen tree-trunks, from the rich soil under which numerous specimens were added to the zoological collections. The ground was very damp, in many places soaking, and extremely slippery, and the porters had difficulty in keeping their feet. The way ran through the forest as far as the banks of the Mahoma. Once the torrent crossed, the path wound among ferns and tree-ferns of several varieties up a slope so steep as to be extremely laborious for the porters, who marched disbanded and very slowly. At a certain pomt of altitude the first bamboos and heaths appeared among the ferns. The ground was slippery and muddy, and scattered with r(.)cks of every dimension. This slope is merely a great lateral moraine of tlie glacier which once flowed down tlie valley and probahly covered the whole plain of Ibanda. It is unaccountable that the real nature of this ridge should have escaped the notice of so many previous explorers of the Mobuku Valley. A corre- sponding and parallel moraine runs along the opposite or 119 Chapter IV. left-hand side of th(^ valley. The Mol)uku torrent roars more than GOO feet helow lii the deep and precipitous gorge where it has cut a channel throutrh the detritus, while the blocks and pebbles of the moraine formation arc (piitt* plainly visible in section on the deeply cut sides. The trees now grew denser and denser until, on the top of the moraine, the path once more entered the forest. For some distance the wav followt'd the crest of the moraine, in many places less than a vard wide, until it reached a gigantic boulder of mieiss about oO feet Ion";, and from 18 to 20 feet high, near which stood a little straw-roofed shed quite crooked and propped up bv a few piles driven into the earth. This nUNDA. is the cam]) of Xakil.iw.i. ( )ii everv side stretched the forest of tall trees with the dense brushwood beneath. Hours of hard work were re(|uired to cut down enouirh 120 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — jNIobukii Valley. brushwood and trees to make room for the seven tents. At the foot of the boulder tlie natives crowded around tlie kitclieii place. This camp is 8,700 feet above tlie sea-level. In THE PORTAL PEAKS ON THE WAY UP TO BmUNGA. spite of occasional descents a rise of 2,400 feet had been accomplished in one march. Dindng the whole afternoon the porters kept dropping in, one by one, tired out witli the hard day's journey. The Baganda are a people of the plains, and evidently incapable of enduring the fatigue of mountain inarches. It had now become obviously necessary to replace them by Bakonjo, who are acclimatized to this valley and accustomed to climb its slopes in tlie chase after marmots and hyrax. Every slope in sight was covered by the forest. It was a scene of virgin and untouched Nature. The regions inhabited by man had been indeed left behind. 121 Chapter lY. Near Nakitawa, at the entrance of the Mahoma Valley, the ancient moraines of the t^^'o valleys meet and imite together. In the corner formed hv the meeting of the left moraine of Mahoma with the rigid moraine of Mol)uku lies a little lake,, which was visited snl)se(j[nentlv hv tlie expedition on their retnrn jom^ney. Tlie peaks of the Portal gron]) soar np over the left side of the valley exactlv opposite this camp. Tlie two southernmost of these peaks stand like giant sentries on either side of the entrance of another great valley whicli liere opens into the Mohnkn. liril.lMN(; SllKDS, lliANDA. The discovery of tliis iiiij)ortant trihutary valley, over- looked by all the previous explorers, permitted the Duke to arrive from the first at certain vital conclusions regarding the position of th<^ j)eaks. 122 From Fort Portal to Bujoiigolo — Molniku Valley. It was, as a matter of fact, through the opeiiiiii;- of this new valley and above its Iiead that the expedition liad seen the Diiwoni of Johnston from Ihanda. In conseqnence it became evident tliat tliis mountain does not stand at tlie HILLSIDE, BELOW BIHUNGA. head of the Mobuku Valley. Furthermore, comparing the aspect of the chain as seen from Kail)o and Butiti with the successive sight of the single peaks, as descried in crossing the Hima Valley between Kasongo and Ibanda, and su])se(piently in descendino- into the Mobuku Vallev, it had become (piite plain that tlie peaks and glaciers of tlie highest central group 123 Chapter IV. were to the south of Duwoui. Consequently the whole of this group must stand between Duwoui and the Mobuku Valley. Hence it seemed obvious that the newly discovered valley must lead into the very heart of the chain and penetrate amongst its highest peaks far more directly than the Mobuku Valley. Owing, however, to the absence of all accounts of this vallev and the uncertainty as to whether it was accessible up to the foot of tlie mountains, H.R.H. decided to continue on the road followed by preceding explorers, so as to lose no tiuu' in reaching some high point whence he might be able to judge of the relative positions of the peaks and valleys. Tlie Duke of the Abruzzi preserved the name of Bujuku for the newly discovered valley, this being the name by which it was known to the inhabitants of Ibanda, For five successive days the weather liad l)een unusually fine for tliese regions, nor were they again to enjoy so long a period of uninterrupted clear sky during the whole campaign, except quite at the last when they were on the point of leaving th(' mountains. ( )n tlie morning of the 6tli of June, witli the dawn, a fine rain was falling from the grey cloudy sky. Provisions were expected by porters, who only arrived at about seven o'clock and consisted of eiglity Bakonjos. These are tall men of robust habit, with somewhat prominent jaw, their hair is eitlier sliaxcn or disposed in strange fashion, and they frequently wear a small bt^aid. 'rii<'ir skin is tainied by the sun, the rain, and the cold, and is hard and rough as leather. They wear a piece of cloth lianging from the loins, bracelets of metal or cord round their arms and legs, and a fur pouch suspended from the neck for pi})e and tobacco. Some wear a leopard skin over their shouldeis. oi- a cloak made of rabbit ])elts (hyrax) stitched 124 From Fort Portal to Biijongolo — ]\Iobuku Vallev. together. There are no converts among them. Thev carry long- staves on their march and use them with o-reat skill in the difficult places. These eighty men were now kept to replace half of tlie Baganda porters who were at once sent down. Everything was set in order. The men were refreshed with food, and at last the expedition started at about eio-ht o'clock. After Nclkitawa the path, now reduced to a mere trail, descends from tlie hrow of tlie moraine, skirting its slope BIHUNGA. through bamboos and creeping plants, to the bottom of the valley which here opens out into a plain. The way now leads across this terrace to the Mobuku torrent, here so small that 125 Chapter IV. it can be crossed dry-slioLl, leapiiio- from stone to stone. A tree trunk tluown across the stream made the passage easier for tlie porters. The enormous difference in the vohiiuf of the Mobuku River at Ihanda and above Nakitawa must be speciallv due to tlie FoiiKST Ar.it\K ]!nirN(;A. influx of the Bujuku Iviver below the latter point, and points to the conclusion that the supposed tributary is really the more important of the two rivers. The flat valley bottom is a lake of mud upon which throws a forest, nearly entirely composed of bamboos. The path is all water and nuid. You sink in to the knee. Under the mud the foot meets with stones (n- pieces of wood, or is caught in a creeper or a fallen trunk, making it necessary to grasp the 126 From Fort Portal to Bujongolo — ]\lobiiku Valley. siiri'oiiiuliiig- hushes, frequently thorny, so as nut to lose balance. Little l)y little you learn to take precautions in walking, to recognize the points likely to atibrd solid footliold ; to proceed now Ijy jumps and again Ijy placing one foot to the right and the other to the left of the path, perching upon stones or upon roots whicli rise ahove the mud or upon fallen brandies of trees, or again hv preserving FOREST AT THE ^lOUTH OF THE MAHOMA. your equilibrium along a fallen tree-trunk. But, even so, you frequently become entangled or get stuck, and seek solace in expletives which are more energetic and expressive Meantime, rain began to fall lieavilv, and than elegant. 127 Chapter IV. from the l)aniboos, from the heaths, from tlic tall ferns, aiul from all the leafaiije of the forest, a chilly drij) fell ceaselessly upon tlie travellers. Bedaiihed with mud from head to foot, their clothes TREE - FERNS. soaked in watei-, after crossing the valley as far as its left slope, the expedition reached the foot of a liigh overhanging cliff at the bottom of a short valley shut in by a moraine. This was the so-called Kicliuchu ( 'amp. at a heiglit of 9,833 feet above the sea-level, and l,l:')3 feet above Nakitawa. The rocky wall forms a slielter over a narrow strip, where you are indeed protected from the ])ouring rain, but where the soil is soaked witli the water whicli di'ips oil* the rock upon it. Here there was room for a single tent only. All 128 77/>^ MOBUKU RIVER IN THE HEATH FOREST From Fort Portal to Bujongolo— Mobuku Valley. around was deep mud. Branches and tree trunks spread upon the ground formed a platform large enough to admit of two more tents. It took many hours' hard labour in the mud and under the rain before the camp could he (rot ready. Such firewood as could be collected in the innnediate neighbourhood was scarce, and the fires insufl&cient. The remaining Baganda porters, tired, discouraged, and shiverinfr with cold were evidently incapable of proceeding any further. They were therefore all sent back with the boys to Butanuka, thence to join their comrades who had been dismissed from Bihunga and Nakitawa. Henceforward the expedition proceeded with tlie Bakonjo only, leaving a numl)er of loads behind to be sent for later as required. The Kichuchu shelter stands upon a plateau which forms the first of a series of three terraces, all soaked with stagnant water and divided one from another by cliffs some 600 feet to 1,000 feet high. These three terraces form the upper Mobuku Vallev. Above Kichuchu the wav suddenlv o-rows steep, and mounts by a narrow natural ledge in the rock of a spur about 900 feet high, belonging to the southernmost peak of the Portal group. At the narrowest and most difticult points of this rockv ledge the climb is facilitated by wooden steps. The path is so steep that you have to climb with hands and feet, clutching the few creeping plants and shrubs wliich grow within reach. The last bit is less steep, but is again a mass of mud, stones and roots. The summit is at last reached. This is the brow of the second plateau of the valley, and here one of the most singular sights seen in all the journey awaited the expedition. 129 K Chapter IV. The plateau is completely covered hy a great forest of tree heaths. In this forest trunks and houghs are entirely smothered in a tliick layer of mosses which hani>- like wavino; beards from every spray, cushion and englobe every knot, curl and swell Kiciirciir. around each twig, deform every outline and obliterate every feature, till the trees are a mere mass of grotesque contortions, monstrous tumefactions of tlie discoloured, leprous growth. No leaf is to be seen save on the very top-most twigs,, vet the forest is dark owing to the dense network of trunks and l)ranches. 'I'lic soil disappears altogether under innumer- al)le dead trunks, heaped one u])oii another in intricate piles, covered with mosses, viscous and slippery where exposed to tlie air ; l)lack, naked, and yet neither mildewed nor rotten where they have lain foi- years and years in deep holes. No forest can be grimmer and stranger than this. The vegetation 130 From Fort Portal to Biijongolo — Mobukii \^alley. seems primeval, of some period when forms were uncertain and provisory. The silence is profound, and the absence of any sign of life completes the image of a remote age before the beginning of animal existence, such as might have been tliose forests which have given us the strata of coal fossils. Faint and indistinct tracks on the moss and the fallen trunks indicate the way. The travellers proceed, leapincr and LOBELIAS IN TP{E HEATH FOREST. balancing themselves upon the slippery trunks, in continual danger of putting their foot in a deep hole and falling in the openings between the trunks, whence they would be likely to emerge with broken bones or other injiiiies. The Bakonjos 131 K 2 Chapter W. j^nve proof of marvellous ao'ilitv. Tliey juiii]) from trunk to trunk : tlicv crouch or crawl to sli]) their loads under the lower hranches ; thev perform miracles of equilihrium upon sloping- trunks, walking all the time so fast that it is difficult to keep up with them. Tlie patli now returns to the Mobuku, which here is a mere Alpine stream buried in the fantastic vegetation on its banks, and roofed over with the strange branches mingling and crossing above it. The yellow-l)rown waters are without fish or any ■other form of animal life. The expedition crossed this stream to its right bank, and reached the foot of another ledge, about (500 feet high, formed by an ancient moraine, and likewise covered with heath forest and underwood of tall ferns, creeping plants, orchids and thorny brambles laden with blossoms and with lun^pe blackberries. In their shade gTow violets, ranunculus, geraniums, epilobium, umbelliferous species and thistles. The ledge leads to the third terrace, where there is another rock shelter called Buamba, 11,542 feet above the sea. Once upon the brow of this ledge and out of the oppressive lifelessness of the heath forest, the expedition found itself suddenly and without transition in the presence of a picture totally different, though no less strange. The long level valley bottom, walled in by towering cliffs on either side, stretched up to the foot of another step, beyond which the valley narrowed into a gorge where stands the shelter of Bujongolo. The peak of Kiyanja * with its glaciers rose far off and high above the head of the valley. Tlie whole valley on every side as far as y(»u could see was one mass of luxuriant vegetation of iiidescril)al)le strangeness. * Edward Peak of Mt. Baker. i;5-j # o From F(^rt Portal to Bujongolo — ^lobuku Valley. The groimd was carjx'ted with a deep lav(^r of lvc<)})()diiiiu and sprhi^'v moss, and tliicklv dotted with hii;' ehinips of the papery Howers, pink, yellow, and silver white of the hdichiysuni or everlastmg, above which rose the tall cohnnnar stalks of the lobelia, like funereal torches, beside huge branching groups of the monster senecio. The impression produced was l)eyon(l THE IlEATII FOREST. words to describe ; tlie spectacle \vas too weird, too improbable, too unlike all familiar iiuages, and upon the whole brooded the same grave deathly silence. Here and there, where tlie face of the cliff was so steep and smooth that no other plant could take root, were great golden 133 Chapter IV. patches of* moss. Tu the bottom of the valley the soft, thick, mossy carpet was strewn with violets and forget-me-nots, which startle the European traveller by the unexpected familiarity of their appearance. The dav was fine, and tlie Duke of the Abruzzi was far too impatient to consent to stop at Buamba, close to the end of the valley, nearly in sight of Bujongolo. They snatched a morsel in haste, and started once more across the flowery plateau in full sight of a graceful waterfall, framed in foliage and flowers, falling from a steej) point on the right side of the valley. The wav })roceeded for a certain distance upon the left side of the Mobuku, and then crossed again to the right at the foot of the last rise. Tlie valley is full of traces of the former passage of glaciers, the rocks are worn smooth and streaked ; there are moraine piles, boulders, etc., etc. One last climl) u|) a steep slope some GOO feet high, over mud and stone, brings the expedition to the right side of the valley, where a heap of Ijlocks, surrounded by tree heaths, are overhung by a high rock which forms a shelter. This is Bujongolo, a veritable eyrie, at a height of 12,461 feet, and 2,528 feet aljove Kieliucbu. The Prince and bis C()nij)ani()ns reached this point alxnit two in tlie afternoon, leaving tbe caravan of porters far behind. Most of the latter had stopped at the Buamba shelter, and only a few with a small number of parcels rejoined the expedition that evening. The place was rough and wild. A cold and biting wind blew off the glacier, and suggested surroundings very different from those usually associated with Equatorial Africa. Tbe members of tlie expedition were full of excitement and 1:54 "WATERFALL AT BUAMBA. From Fort Portal to Bnjoiigolo— Mobuku Valley. satisfaction at having at last reached the foot of the moiuitains- which they were to explore. The journey from Italy to this point had occupied 54 days. The first night was spent in the open. The tents had not arrived, and many were without even a sleeping bag. A few sheep had come so far with the porters, and frightened by the strange place huddled around them. The shapes of the naked blacks crouching around a great fire showed dimly in the night. Cagni, barely convalescent, had left Entebbe two days before and was hastening, by forced marches, to join the expedition and take part in their work. 137 CHAPTER Y. Peaks at the Head of Mobuku Valley. Organization of the Base Camp at Bujongolo — Upper Mobuku Valley — H.K.H. starts on the first exploring party — The Mobuku Glacier — Camp on the edge of the Glacier — Terminal llidge and Grauer Rock — First comprehensive view of the liuwcnzori Chain — First Ascent of the Kiyanja Peaks^ — Vittorio Sella at Camp I — Photographic work at C4rauer Rock — Fog, Snow and Storms — Sella ascends a third peak of the group — Difficult descent to Bujongolo — Four days of liad weather — Camp Life — A leopard visits the camp — The journey of Connnandcr Cagiii from Entebbe to Bujongolo. On the mornlno- of the 8th June the Bakonjo porters who had stopped the (lay hefore at Buamba arrived at Bujongolo ill small detachments. Meantime tlie Duke and his com- panions, feeling" very stiff and un- comfortable after a night spent upon the rocks, in tlie open air, deliberated as to tlie best means of forming a camp under the existing conditions. At first sififht the thiiiir seemed impossible. Great blocks of rock, heaped in confusion at the foot of the cliff, or projecting from the hollow at its base, left not a yard of ground free. Underneath, the pile of blocks formed caverns and liollows of which a few were 138 Peaks at tlie Head of ^Mobukii Valley. relativelv dry and biu" eiiouiiii to tuiiu ])Ossible shelters for the natives. The cliff ovei'luiiig' tlie place, wliile the chaos of loose blocks reached to the verge of the steep slope whicli led down to the bottom of the vallev. This slope was one tangled mass of moss, mud and stones, shaded bv the desolate heath forest. liUJOXGOLO. They began by cutting down numerous trees, and so distributing the trunks among the rocks as to build up platforms wide enough to carry the six tents. These tents stood on different levels, making two groups separated from one 139 Cliapter V. anotluT l)v a lnii;v l)oul(lt'r. To pass from one of tliese groups to tlie other you had cither to go round the boulder, under the perpetual (hip of water Avliicli, even in fine weather, came off tlie edo-e of the overhanafina: rock, or else vou must clamher between the l)oulder and the rocky wall, a feat requiring some acrobatic skill. Close to the tents, in a small space between three heath trees, were arranged the instrunK^its which composed the small meteorological observatory. Bv no effort was it possible so to transform this inconvenient spot as to create an even tolerable camp, such as would have been desirable foi- a base station, where the expedition might spend a consideral)le time, and whither exploring parties might return from the high mountains for rest and refreshment. Unfortunatelv. there seemed to be no place in the region which combined other attractions with a certain measure of shelter from the weather. The River Mobuku flows at the foot of Bujongolo nK)re than 600 feet below. The camp stood nearly at the entrance of a little tributary valley, which at this point opens out of the right flank of the Mobuku Valley. The latter is visible for a short tract onlv, not farther than the foot of Kiyanja, at which ])oint it makes a sharp bend to the northward. Kiyanja has from tliis side the appearance of a high rocky wall ending in a sharjj peak. To the left of this peak, at the top of the wall, lies a level glacier overhung l)y a roimded smumit. To the right stretches a jiigg<3d ridge, at whose feet flows down into the valley another glacier, partly hidden by the corner formed on the left slope of the Mobuku Valley at the point where it turns to the north. Opposite the cam}), on the other side of the valley, a spur descends OTaduallv down to the iilain of Buamba. Beyond this. 140 Peaks at the Head of Mobuku \^alley. spur rises a great double peak.* Two ridges run up straight from the base to the points foriuiug a wide couloir between them. At this elevation, where the temperature often reached freezing point during the night, it became indispensable to THE KIYANJA OF JOHNSTON FROM BUJONGOLO. clothe the Bakonjo porters in some degree. The Duke had foreseen this, and warm flannels and blankets were distributed among them. They had great difficulty in putting them on, and their long and ludicrous attempts generally resulted in a frantic effort to squeeze their legs into the sleeves of the * Mt. Cagni. 141 Chapter V. woollen vests. The blankets tied around their shoulders and girt with a rope around the waist formed a garment somewhere between a toga and a cassock. At all events, the poor fellows were now protected from the cold, which was the essential point. While the Duke, witli the help of Dr. Cavalli, directed the organization of the camp, Messrs. Knowles, Sella and Roccati made a preliminary exploration as far as the Mol)uku Glacier at the head of the valley. On the followino; mornino;, June i)tli, Mr. Knowles and Mr. Haldane, who liad accompanied the expedition as far as the foot of the mountains, and used all their authority and their great experience to facilitate its progress, left it definitely and returned to Fort Portal. H.R.H. remembers with gratitude the invaluable help which they gave to his enterprise. The porters went down to fetch the loads which had been left behind at Kichuchu. The Duke, with his guides and Botta and five Bakonjos, started for the upper end of the valley. After leaving Bujongolo, the way continues to skirt the right slope of the valley. The bottom of the valley is nearly level, marshy, dotted with reeds, lobelias and senecio, and strewn witli fallen tnmks upon which you stumble at every step, and slippery with wet mosses in wliicli you sink to the knee. The opposite side of the valley consists of a smooth rock wall. Where the valley turns nortliward it grows still narrower, forming a gorge between steep walls. At the upper end the Mobuku Glacier appears actually to overhang it, all broken and full of crevasses, covering the upper portion of the last rocky clifi^ and ending in an ice cavern whence issues the llii Mobuku Glacier Stairs Pfak Ed'.vard ,, Semper , . Sai'oia „ Elena , , Afoerius ,, Alexantira Peak Margherita ,, Stiihliitaiin Pass I'itt" EiiKtnuele Peak j0hnston ,, Soi-lli Portal ,, UPPER GORGE OF THE MOBUKU VALLEY. Peaks at the Head of Mobuku Valley. torrent. Near to the glacier the only plants are arl)oraceou.s senecio, several yards high. A little before the end of tlie valley the way crosses the torrent and mounts a frontal moraine left bv the retreating;; glacier. In this way a projecting rock is reached where Grauer had encamped at a height of 13,229 feet above tlie sea, a little below the lower end of the glacier. This was the last point where it was possible to light a fire, and during the brief halt the porters huddled shivering around the flame. The distance from Bujongolo to this point is one hour's march. The way now continued skirting the rock to the right and ascending a short chimney closed at the top by a boulder, from which still hung one of the ropes placed there by Grauer to facilitate the ascent. Thanks to this assistance the obstacle was easily sui-mounted. In one more hour's climb up the rocks the left margin of the glacier was reached just above the terminal fall of seracs. Here the way skirted the glacier for a bit, and then proceeded again to climb the rock wall over a difficult passage, which the porters would have Ijeen unable to negotiate without the assistance of the guides. Their bare feet slipped continually upon the smooth steep moss-grown slabs of rock, or got wounded on their edges and sharp points. At last the Duke gave up the idea of bringing them further and sent them back to Bujongolo. A short traverse led back to the glacier at the foot of a rocky projection. The Duke had wished to encamp on the top of the ridge so as to be there at the following dawn when there was greater chance of a clear sky. But hardly had they reached the glacier before a dense fog enveloped the party and shut out everything from their sight. It was U5 L Chapter V. impossible to get on any further on that day. With their ice- axes they levelled a little space between the stones and here set up the one Whyniper tent which they had brought with them. After Bujongolo there were no more names for any of the places, and therefore the subsequent camps are indicated by numbers. Tliis one on the rocks to the left of the Mobuku Glacier, a])<)ve the terminal ice-fall, was Camp I, altitude 14,118 feet. Botta and Laurent Petigax at once redescended to Bujongolo. Joseph Petigax, Oilier and the porter Brocherel remained with H.R.H. The afternoon passed slowly and tediously in the cold, damp fog, which did not lift until late in the evening. Before daylight on the lOtli of June, tiie weather being clear, the Duke, seized by an irresistible impatience to proceed, and dreading a return of the fog at any moment, hurried on the guides at a forced pace down the rocks, on to. the glacier, and up the snow slopes with their few crevasses, and in al)Out half an hour reached the top of tlie ridge. The daybreak had hardly commenced. The whole range of mountains stood before them, with only the topmost peaks shrouded in mist. They had reached the lowest point of the ridge at tlie top of the Mobuku Glacier. Here a small peak projected from the snow, covered with black lichens and mosses, while a few grasses and a species of thistle blossomed on its sides. This is the rock which Grauer, in January of tlie same year, had named King Edward Peak, 14,813 feet. From this depression, which may be described as a col, the ridge rises to the eastward, on the right, as far as two rocky peaks'* separated by a small glacier. Wollaston, with Woosnam, * Moore and Wollaston Peaks. 146 I Peaks at the Head of JMobiiku Valley. had ascended the easternmost of these in February, and luid then supposed it to be the Duwoni of Johnston. In the opposite direction the ridge stretches west and south, forming two more peaks, evidently higher than those to the east of the col. These south-western peaks form the Kiyanja of Johnston. "^ Moore Peak. WoUastou Peak. EASTERN PEAKS OF MT. BAKEIt, SEEN FROM EDWARD PEAK. In fact, the peaks at tlie upper end of the Mobuku Valley form a single group, ending in a continuous ridge, which curves southward in a complete semicircle, circumscribing a vast amphitheatre, covered to a great extent by glaciers. * Semper and Edward Peaks. M7 L 2 Chapter V. To tlie north, on the other hand, the groups tower above a vast valley where tlie clear waters of a jieaceful lakelet reflect the rocks and glaciers round about. This turned out to be the upper end of that valley which the Prince had detected at its opening into tlie Mobuku Valley between the two southernmost Portal peaks opposite Nakitawa. As he had then siu'mised, this vallev does actuallv |)enetrate to the heart of the range, and is entirely surrounded by snow peaks and glaciers. To the south of it lies the eastern end of Kivanja, while to the west stands the great central group,* formed, as had been seen from the Hima Valley, of four distinct peaks standing two and two at either end of a ridge whence a great glacier flows down and covers the entire slope. To the north stands the Duwonif of Johnston, which from this point appears in fore-shortening with two scpiat snow peaks. There could now remain no doubt i)ut that the two northern peaks of the central o;roii]) were tlie liicrhest of the whole chain. Further oti', to the right of Duwoni, behind a great spur which runs down from Duwoni eastward, appeared two more • snow peaks;]: standing at the head of a tril)utary of the Bujuku Valley. On the last ridge of this eastern spur of Duwoni there is a strange monolith, standing up straight as a tower, and with regular angles, which, at a distance, looks almost architectural. The discovery of the Bujuku Valley proved (piite clearly that the terminal ridge at the head of the Mobuku Valley is not a portion of the watershed of the chain, as had been supposed by all the Duke's predecessors who had come so far. It furthermore proved that neither the main group, including the * Mt. Stanley. f Mt. Speke. I Mts. Kiniii and Gessi. Its Peaks at the Head of ]\I()l)ukii Valle}'. hiorhest summits, nor the Duwoiii of Johnston, has any connection with the Mobuku Valley. H.Ii.H. was the first to behold the complete panorama of the range spread out before his eyes. It THE HIGHEST PEAKS AND LAKE BIJIKU, SEEN FIK 'M GltAl'ER'.S ROCK. was a far more imposing sight than could have been imagined by those preceding explorers who, once they reached the terminal gorge of the Mobuku Valley, supposed that the 151 Chapter V. glaciers and peaks around them Mt^re the most important of the whole chain. Wollaston alone had had a glimpse of the groups to northward, l)nt the fogs had not permitted him to appreciate their nmnber nor their exact situation. Even in the former attempts to explore the range from the west, single mountains only liad been visible. Possibly David had had a wider view, but his description is vague and confused. It was barely 6.30 in tlu^ morning when the little party once more set out towards the west in the direction of the highest peaks of the group, proceeding over hard snow broken by a few crevasses on the left flank of the crest facing the Mobuku Valley. The ridge rises first to a peak* of l)roken and I'otten rock (15,843 feet), of which H.R.H. reached the summit at 8 a.m. A light wind was blowing from the western valley, and drifts of mist began now and again to shroud the prospect from their sight. To the west of this 2)eak a jagged and slightly marked arete leads precipitously down to the pass which connects Kiyanja with the central and highest group. The main ridge, on the other hand, bends southward, and from thence onward forms part of the watershed of the range between the Mobuku to the east and another smaller \alley which falls away westward toward the Semliki. The west face of Kiyanja is precipitous like the north face, which overhangs the Bujuku Valley. Without stopping on this first peak, the caravan proceeded southward along the ridge towards the highest point, now less than 400 yards distant. At l>. 15 a.m. the Prince was the first to set foot upon the highest summit of Kiyanja, t 15,988 feet. The rocks of the summit are covered with fulgurites in the form of * Semper Peak. f Edward Peak. inley I. Sa-.-Kin Peak 6. }'it 2. AUxamlra Peak 7- Joh 3- Margheritn ,, 8. Cri) 4- Kiiward ,, 9- JIfo. 5- Semper „ lO. ll-c Peaks at the Head of ^lobuku Vallev vitreous efflorescences. The wind luid ceased, and everything around them was enveloped in mist. Tlie temperature was mild, al)()ut 43° F. They remained four liours on the to}), looking anxiously for any opening in the mist in the hope of Sfatherino; further details of the scene aromid tliem. Semper Peak. E.l\var.l Peak. ■ pi JkH^^^^^S^m ^^S? 1^ ^ ^^^H^BI^y.^S^^ K^ ^1 ^^^K i^l ^^^ \ J _ r-^hL '^..i^ -*^ *t?f*?^^^'J 3r J MT. BAKER (THE KIY.A.XJA OF JOHXsTOX) SEEX FROM THE WEST. They did not wait in vain. They were able to make out that the watershed ridge proceeded southward from the peak upon Avhich they stood and downwards to a col beyond Mhicli was another group of mountains,* a short chain of ridges and rocky peaks, with a few glaciers of far less extent than those of * Mt. Luigi di Savoia. Chapter V. the northern groups. The low watershed col had every appear- ance of fornimg an easy pass between Bujongolo and the valley to the west of the Kiyanja, by which it woidd be possible to reach the foot of the central gi'oup without difficulty. Before dipping down to the col, the south ridge of the Kiyanja rises once more into a knob of rock, which is clearly visible from Bujongolo, and is tlie point ascended by Mr. Wollaston in February and in April. By one o'clock the party started back. They crossed once more the peak which they had ascended first, and proceeded in a foo- whicli was now dense and immovable, over the tracks which they luul left in the snow in the morning. At three o'clock thev reached Grauer's rock, and in half an hour more were in the camp beside the Mobuku Glacier. Here they found Sella, who had come up with Laurent Petigax and Botta. With the help of six natives they had brought up a second tent and tbe photographic apparatus. Sleety rain was now falling, which soon turned into a thick fall of snow. On the mornins; of the 11th, the Duke returned to Bujongolo. Sella, with Botta and Broclierel, in their turn, ascended the col. The tracks of the Duke's party had disappeared under the new snow which had fallen during the night, and the mist made it impossible to see even a few steps ahead. After a few liours spent on the col in vainly waiting for the mist to clear, they proceeded to climb the rocky crag which Grauer had named after King Edward. Once on the top, in spite of the snow which was now falling again, they set up the photographic camera on its tripod, and, huddling around it, waited patiently. By two in tlie afternoon Sella gave it up, folded up the camera, and was on the point of leaving the 154 Peaks at the Head of Mobuku Valley. peak, when suddenly the sky hegan to clear. The mists melted rapidly on every side, and in a few minutes all the mountains were uncovered except only the extreme summits. The camera was immediately set up again and a panorama taken. A clear sunset followed. The sun went down just over the two highest points, lighting up the snow with its last rays. At nio;htfall the storm beo-an ao-ain with thunder, litrhtnino^ and heavy snow. Sella returned to the col in the mornino-. He saw the mountains once more, but under a leaden sky with diffused lio-ht and no shadows. Dark banks of mist were drifting upward from the east in a light Avind, and settling little by little over valleys and peaks. From tlie col Sella proceeded to a peak to the east,'"' 15,269 feet, over rocks which were not difficult, but here and there were rendered dangerous by the ice and snow. The snowfall had ao-ain beo-un, but he remembered his luck of the preceding day, and waited patiently on the top until three in the afternoon, but without success. On returning to the col, he found Roccati, who had come ujd from Bujongolo with a o'liide to take observations on the o-jaciers. In the ■evening Sella remained alone in camp with Botta. The snow was now fallino- thick and continuous, without the smallest interval. On the following day, 13th of June, the tent was folded up to return to Bujongolo, whence five natives had come to fetch the loads. The descent was far from easy. Numberless rivulets, now swollen with water, fell in little cascades -across the narrow muddy path, and made the mossy rocks even more slippery than they had been. It was extremely difficult to induce the terrified natives to proceed. In the * Moore Peak. 155 Chapter V. cliimnev, near Graiiers cam]), whicli is overhung by a ])rojecting rock, thev had to j)as.s inulcr a real waterfall, M'ith a certain risk of heing carried away down tlie pre- cipitous slope. Here and further down, as far as the point ]UJ()N(;OLO. where the patli becomes less steep, Seha and Hotta were obliged to carry all tlie loads themselves by instalments, while the Bakonjo, silent and passive, could scarcely manage to proceed at all. Finally, a])out seven o'clock in tlie evenings drenched yv\t\\ water and covered witli nnid. they reached their companions at Bujongolo. Herefrom the 11th u\) to tlie 14th indusivt* tbere was no im])rovement in tlu' weather. The rain was nearly continuous, while storms oi' wind, with thunder and lightning, followed 1 50 IValcs at the Head of M(>l)ukii Valley. upon one another at short iuturvals. Thick dark fog enveloped evervthini;-. The eaiiip was soon mvaded hy mud and water, and a continual dri}) came down upon the tents from the overhano-ino- rock. Under these conditions it became difEcult to kindle a fire, and the only resource was to keep it hurning dav and night, which retpiired no mean amount of work in feeding it and providing sufficient fuel. On one side of the HEATH FOREST BELOW BUJOXGOLO. huge boulder whicli divided the camp in two, stood the three tents of the Duke, liis companions, and Bulli, standing on different levels. They had constructed, close by, a rt)Ugh shed where they could eat, and the kitchen was near at lo7 Chapter Y. hand. On the other side of the boulder the guides, by dint of displacing large rocks with their ice-axes and working hard at levelling, had made room for their own tents. Every time that anyone stepped out of the camp he would sink into the mud. It was impossible to circulate between the tents without nailed boots, because the moment tliat vou came out a sort of mountain-climl)ing gymnastic beo-an where it was necessarv to hold on tight at every step. The mean temperature was from 39° to 41° F. At niglit it o-enerally fell to 33°-34°, and sometimes to freezing point. The dampness, however, was far more trying tlian the cold. One event alone would occasionally relieve the tedium, namely, the arrival of the post. The letters Mere brought up by swift com'iers — wrapped up carefully in banana leaves, and stuck in the end of a cleft cane. Now and again the camp would be filled wltli pungent smoke, extremely irritating to the eyes and chest, which came from the fires lit by the Bakonjo in tlie underground cavities between the boulders. They huddled together all day long in these dens, where they had not room to stretch themselves out at length, and ate or smoked incessantly when thev were not asleep. Their real providence A\as tlie fire. Thev never left it except when called away, and lushed 1)ack to squat around it as soon as they were no longer re(|uired. They carried it about with them from place to place, using a sort of drv fungus whicli remains kindled like tinder, and wliicli they keep in a case made of banana leaves. The moment a halt was called durinii- a march, in less than no time the natives would have kindled a fire and Ije enjoying a fine Ijlaze and smoking their pipes, and it was not always easy to induce 158 BUJONGOLO Peaks at the Head of ]\Iobukii Valley. them to start again })roiiiptly. They were once found on tlie road, shivering in the rain and stark naked, having taken off their vests and blankets so as to enjoy to the full the heat of the glowing coals. They ate eagerly whatever food was supplied to them, but they did not like novelty. They made wry faces before making up their minds to swallow tea, and far preferred their mess of dura floin% which to us seems nauseating to the wdiite wheat flour, even when prepared with butter. In spite of these trying conditions of life, the Bakonjo showed admirable patience and docility. It was very rare, indeed, for even a single porter to refuse to go on with his load, although they nearly always got their feet swollen and hurt by the stones. Once only, on returning from Bujongolo after a few days of hard service in the mountains, ten of them deserted because it was not possible to dismiss them, as they desired. The law of Uganda does not permit native porters to abandon a caravan conducted by whites until they have finished the time or traversed the distance for which they have engaged themselves. It came out afterwards that the deserters had been instip-ated by a native convert of the plain, the one and only Baganda who had been willing to follow the caravan as far as the mountains. Notwithstanding the cold and the bad weather, they ran away stark naked, after honestly depositing their warm clothes and blankets near one of the tents. During the sojourn of the expedition at Bujongolo, a certain number of natives got bronchitis and coughs and were sent down. One got his feet frostbitten and was carried as far as Fort Portal to the hospital. Poor Igini, the cook, had the hardest life of all. He was the only one whose activity was confined within the 159 Chapter V. ring of deep mud which tinned the camp into a close prison. Squatting between four boulders, liedged about by the cases of rations, the kitchen implements, the fire, and tlie tent, he had far less cliance of exercise than during the polar winter which he had spent in Teplitz Bay, where he was forced to go half a mile to fetch the meat of some bear hung up by the ship, or had to work to disinter the cases of rations, or help to run after the dogs. The daily visits of a big leopard, whose den was situated under the heath forest in the neighbourhood of the camp, did not contribute to render the sojourn at Bujongolo pleasant. This leopard was observed for the first time, on the 11th of Jime, bv a native, not far from the tent devouring two sheep belonging to the expedition. On the following night he prowled around the camp. On the evening of the 12th, the Duke, who was absorbed in writing at the opening of his tent, saw liim only a few paces off. The animal fled as soon as lie stood up, but his boldness gave cause to fear for the porters who slept unprotected, or for those who went to fetch water for the camp. In vain were the surroundings examined and beaten ; the animal seemed very cunning, and when hunted never allowed himself to be seen. On the evening of the \'M\\, the weather liad shown a tendency to improve, but during the night grew worse again. On the evening of the 14tli, however, it seemed really to clear. The sky became free from clouds, the last traces of mist melted away, and all the mountains came into sight covered far down with the fresh snow which had fallen during the last days. The intolerable imprisonment was finally coming to an end, and the Duke made preparations to start out on the following morning to explore the central grc)U|) of the chain. 160 MT. CAGNI SEEN FROM BUJONGOLO. M Peaks at the Head of ]\[obitku \"alley. CV>iniii;uider C'Rgiii, wlio was hasteiiiiii;- up tlie Mobuku Valley, liad hy this time nearly rejoined his comrades, who l)elieved him to l)e still many days' journey oW. He had left Entehbe, as we said, on the 5th of June, with twenty-five porters, a rickshaw and a horse. In a short time he so far recovered his strength and got so perfectly into training tliat he was able to make two, or even four, stages in a day. He took advantage of the full moon to leave before dawn, and continued the march till late in the day, doing 25 to 27 miles at a time. The porters, allured by presents of a sheep or a little money, performed miracles. Once they marched for seventeen hours, covering .'^>2 miles. In six days, Cagni reached Toro, where King Kasagama showed him every courtesy. He left again in the morning of the 12th of June. At Butanuka he found the 178 Baaanda porters who had been sent back from the Mobuku Valley. Following the directions of tlie Duke, lie dismissed a portion of them, and sent the others back to Fort Portal, there to await the return of the expedition from tlie mountains. He had difficulty in crossing the Wimi Iliver, which had now become an impetuous torrent some 50 yards wide, \A'ith a depth of more than three feet at some points, and he found a still more serious obstacle in the Mobuku, swollen liy the same rains which were imprisoning the expedition at Bujongolo. Not having a rope long enough to permit of his stretch- ing it across the river, as the expedition had done, lie tied together the halter of his horse, the tent ropes, the cords used to tie the loads, etc., doubling them several times, and in this way he contrived a rope lono- enouo-ji to cover ahout half the widtli of the torrent. This he liad kept taut across the central and swifter part of the current ])y two groups of men. Tlianks 163 M 2 Chapter V. to the wilHng help of the chiefs and natives of the neighbouring villages, he managed to cross the river without accidents, but with the loss of half a day. On the 14th of June, at Bihunga, where the native soldiers of the escort were established, he changed his Baganda porters for Bakonjo. Two days later he reached Bujongolo, thus accomplishing the whole journey in ten stages. Here he found only Dr. Cavalli, the Duke having left the evening before, while Sella and Roccati had started that very morning to ascend the col to the south of Kiyanja. 164 CHAPTER YI. Peaks of the Central Group. The Bakonjo's dread of the Western Slopes — H.E.H. leaves Bujoiigolo — March through fog and mud — The Col on the Watershed — Camp near the Lake — Ascent of the Valley to the West of Kiyanja — Camp III — Col at the foot of the Central Group — Camp IV — The Bujuku Valley once more in sight — Ascent of Alexandra Peak — In the Fog — Climbing Margherita Peak — Snow-blindness — Elena and Savoia Peaks — The Expedition united again — Adventures of the Duke's companions from the 15th to the 20th of June — Sella and Roceati climb a peak of the Southern Group. Douglas Freshfield had been told by his caravan leader tluit the col towards which the southern ridge of Kiyanja runs down, and which forms a part of the watershed, had been used as a pass by the natives on the west of the chain who were in the habit of crossiiio- it into the o Mobiikn, on tlieir way to Buanil)a to trade with the Bakonjo. The Duke, however, failed to ^atlier from his porters the least scrap of information as to any way of communication between the eastern and w^estern slopes. They appeared rather to experience a feeling of terror for the district beyond the ridge, and seemed 165 Chapter VI. profoundlv coiivinetHl tliat to oo tow.-irds the Cono-o was equivalent to going to meet certain death. It was only too natural that, with tliese feelhigs, tliey shoidil show extreme reluctance to Ibllowinu- the Prince westward. On the morning of the 15th June, there were only nine Bakonjo at Bujongolo, hardly a suthcient numl)er, with tlie addition of the four guides and Botta, to carry tlie kit of tlie Duke, now reduced to al)solute necessities and rations for a fe\\- days. At the last moment the natives put forward a claim to heing paid every day, and the Duke of tlie Al)ruzzi was obliged to load liimself ^^■ith a not inconsideral)le weight of rupees. Finallv, ahout eijiht o'clock, as no other excuse for fresh delay was available, they started from camp in Inilliant sini- shine. First they went up the little valley which, as M^e saw, opens on tlie riglit-hand side of the Moliuku, near to Bujongolo. They followed the line of the small torrent, crossing from one liank to the other, and so reached the top of the spur, and came into a valley formed by a torrent fed from the southern glaciers of Kiyanja. This is the same torrent whicli forms the picturesque waterfall on the right slope of thf plain of Buamba. Close to the head of the little valley are two ])rojectiiig rocks forming natural shelters, similar to those of Kichuchu and Buamba. The ground was drenched with tlie rain which had fallen during the preceding (lavs, and after an bonis inarch evervoiie wiXH wet to the skin, and co\ered with iiind. Tlie march was tiring, because at every few steps you slijiped or sank into the mud. The porters were suspicions of the unknown country towards whicli tlieir ste])S were directed, and pioceeded unwillingly, with exasperating slowness. 'fliey had stopped 1G6 THE VALLEY TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER. Peaks of the Central Group. twenty minutes after leaving Bujongolo, and had immediately kindled a fire and lit their pipes. After another half hcmr's march they repeated this performance. When urged to proceed they would aiiswei' l)y pointing to their head, feet, hellv or legs, each of which portions of their persons seemed to have been suddenly afflicted with painful complaints. To make •^ -I' i. ■;:.■■.■•.; m MT. STANLEY SEEX FROM FRESHFIELD S COL. things worse, the fog closed in again, and the marsh\^ vaUey was crossed without a glimpse of anything beyond the senecios and lobelias around them, and the moss, mud and stones at their feet. The watershed* was at last reached after an easy climb, partly on the slo]3e and partly in a gorge. * Freshfield Pass. 1G7 Chapter YI. A cold \\'\\\(\ was l)l()wino- and the porters rushed to find shelter. The height was 14,193 feet ahove the sea-level. They were ahove the zone of trees, and tliere were only mosses, lichens and elnnips of everlasting dowers. The wind drove the fog hither and tliitlier, opening np glimjDses of the country now in one direction, now in another. To the north of the col rose the southern ridge of Kiyanja, wide, rounded, and covered on the top by a glacier which falls over to the right and left on the two slopes, and which must have once come down so as to cover the entire col. The traces are clear on the polislu-d and lined rocks. Southward stands the group of rocky peaks which H.Ti.H. had already observed from the summit of Kiyanja. Here they sa\v two small glaciers which hll two cols, while a third between them is rocky and free from ice. Four j^eaks form these cols ; the westernmost and furthest off appeared to be the highest. At the foot of these peaks, between them and a spur of Kiyanja, lies a valley which slopes down due west. Beyond this spur they caught sight of the light reflected on two tiny lakes, which lie at the bottom of another valley running from no]*th to south, starting from the col between Kiyanja and the central group. It was this col ^^■hich the Duke wished to reach and to make his base for attaining to the highest ])eaks. While he carefully noted down every detail of the counti v ^^•bich was visible, taking advantage of the rifts in the moving mists, a guide went forward to find out wlictlier it nuglit not Ix' possible to skirt the western slopes of Kivanja without dt'sccnding to the bottom of the valley, which would then necessitate reascending to the farther col. The guide now came back and brought news that it would not be jjossible to skill tbt- mountain because its side 1G8 LAKE TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER — CHARRED SENECIOS. \k. Peaks of the Central Group. towards the valley was precipitous. They were therefore oblio-ed to o-o down to the lakes. Soon after midday the little party, leaving a portion of its loads on the col so as to move more rapidly, started afresh, and first skirted the western slope at the same level, very little under the pass but above the forest of senecios, in order to reach the ridge of the south-west spur of Kiyanja. From here they descended towards the lower of the two little lakes. The descent was steep, the mud was slippery, and then- way led through a forest of senecios and clumps of helichrysum, wdiich the o-uides cut and broke with blows of their ice-axes to clear a path. There were great smooth slabs to be avoided, which here and there stuck out of the gi^ound and were too steep to walk upon. The porters kept striking their loads against the low and dense ramifications of the senecios, slipped on the big stones, stumbled among the dead trunks and branches which lav half-buried in the mud, and had to be incessantlv eiicom-aged and urged to proceed. They were overhung by the precipitous sides of Kiyanja, which threatened them with stone falls. As they neared the bottom of the valley, they were surprised to find a vast tract of senecio forest, where the trunks and branches were bare, blackened, and partially carbonized by recent lire. There was no sign to indicate the passage of man, nor was it probable that the inhabitants of the vallevs would have pushed so far up without cau.se ; hence it must be supposed that the tire was either spontaneous or caused by lightning. The dense mantle of dead leaves which hangs downwards around every branch of the senecio under the terminal bunch of green leaves, and which is one of the chief features in the strange aspect of this curious plant, offers abmidant fuel for tire and is as easy to 171 Chapter VI. kindle as tinder. It niioht perfectly well be set ablaze merely through the heat developed in fermentation, which must be especially active and energetic in this climate. The fact is interesting were it onlv to show tliat there must be occasional dry spells of sufficient length to allow of the dead leaves getting dry to a certain extent, for in the soaked state in which they are usually found, it would seem quite impossible that tliey should provoke a conflagration. Between the blackened skeletons, striplings were already shooting up to replace the ruined forest. The party reached the shore of the first lake to^^'ards four o'clock. It was plainly impossible to oblige the porters to proceed on that day. The Duke decided to encamp upon a spur which runs out into the lake, and is about 90 feet high. The level above the sea was 13,271 feet; 810 feet above the camp of Bujongolo. The valley, ^^'llich up to this point ran due north and south, here turns abruptly to the west, becoming so narrow that the lakelet fills the whole bottom, which forms a sort of oval basin resembling a crater at first sight. A few ducks wander over the water. There were traces of leopards and marmots, and a few ci'ows were flvinp- overhead. There was no other sign of animal life. A little torrent, falling down from the glaciers of Kivanja, gave abundance of water. There was plenty of wood ^^■itllill reach, and it was soon possible for everyone to dry liis garments around a big fire. In the clear fine afternoon the little lake, barely ruffled by the breeze, reflected tlie snowy peaks. Tlie valley was one mass of flowers, and in this ])eaceful scene they soon forgot the fatigue of the hard day. The s\m went down behind a dense layer of clouds, which lay across the sky to tlie westward. 172 THE UPPER LAKE IN THE VALLEY TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER. Peaks of the Central Group. Presently the sun appeared ag-ain helow these clouds and lit ii|) the western sky, the valley, and the vast forest of the Congo, which merged in the intense red of the far-off horizon. On the following morning, Laurent Petigax, Brocherel, and three native porters went back to fetch the loads which had been left on the preceding day on the pass when they came lip from Bujongolo. The others set out on the march carrying the rest. They skirted the two little lakes at the foot of the slopes of Kiyanja, cutting their way step by step through the dense tangle of senecio and helichrysum. Between the thickets of sempervivum Avere found specimens of an exceedingly beautiful large flowering hypericum, together with ranunculus, several plants of the cruciferous family, alchemilla, balsam, robbia, etc. The valley was narrow and grim, shut in l^etween steep rocks, dryer than the Mobuku, and showing many and clear traces of glacier action at a not very remote period. Tlie whole l^ottom was full of moraine rubbish, mingled with detritus, fallen from Kiyanja. Both lakes are of olacial formation. Under the lower lake lies a frontal moraine forming a dam, with a spur of rounded rock. The two lakes are divided by a rocky transversal ridge covered with detritus. To the north of the upper lake lies another moraine forming a steep bank, above which a higli plain slopes upward. Here the valley widens out about two-thirds (jf a mile. At the foot of Kiyanja is a long neve, formed bv avalanches tallino- over tlie side. The valley is dominated bv the soutliern ^^eaks of the central group, from which flow down two glaciers, forming two sources of tlie torrent ; the third springs from a glacier of Kivaiija. Chapter VI. Camp III was formed at a height of 13,842 feet, ahnost directly under the two peaks of Kiyaiija, which the Duke had ascended six days l)efore. Here also was an ahundance of water and of fire-wood. HEAD OF THE VALLEY TO THE WEST OF MT. BAKER. From this point the ascent of the col* offered no difficulty. The way followed the ridge of an ancient * Scott Elliot Pass. 176 i . ^•^ ^ "^ Peaks of the Central Group. median moraine, wliicli shows that at one time the glaciers of Kivanja joined those of the central group and ran down into the vallev togetlier. The senecios and everlasting flowers came nearly up to tlie top of tlie col. growing ffraduallv less dense. On reaching the to}) of the coL tlie party followed the ridge westward as far as a point near the edge of the glacier, which runs down to tlie feet of the sontliernmost peaks of the central grou]). These peaks form two imposing LAMP IV, (JLUSE TO THE ELENA (iEACIEr.. towers of rock. The camp w^as pitched upon the broken stones near the Macier at a heiofht of 14.817 feet. There were now rations for one day only, so the whole of the Bakonjo, as well as Laurent Petigax and Botta, were sent back to Bujongolo. Joseph Petigax, Oilier and Brocherel remained with the Duke. The afternoon was clear and the mountains free from cloud. The camp overlooked the valley with its little blue lake, which liad been seen from the ridge at the top of the 177 Chapter YI. Mobuku Glacier. From tlu' col which thcv had jnst traversed, a nearly perpendicular rock wall falls down to this valley on tlie north. The eye followed the vallev for a long distance eastward and saw it turn southward in tlie distance to join the Mohuku. Thus there remained no possible doul)t as to this bein*;- really the Bujuku Valley, and as to the great snowy mountain to the north being reallv tlie Duwoni of Johnston. To the south-east the view is shut out by tlie mass of Kiyanja. The ii"uides wlio had climbed the olacier to make out the way to the central group I'etiuiied towards evening. The sunset was less clear than on the preceding days. The extreme nearness of the goal made the forced delay intolerable. The Duke, cooped up with the guides in the narrow space of a single tent, passed a great })ortion of tlie night in anxious wa telling, jjreoccujjied bv disagreeable doubts as to the weather. Finally, the day dawned on the 18tli of June with a clouded grey sky. They roped together hastily and in silence, Joseph Petigax and Oilier came first, then the Duke, and lastly, Brocherel. Tht/v beuan tht- ascent of the glacier aloni>- the way traced by the guides <»n the preceding day. The great ice plain was reached without ditficultv in about one hour. It was ().'M) in the moi-ning. and tlie peaks which thev desired to reach stood before th(Mn at a verv short distance. They were both covered with snow, and the southernmost, wliich stood nearest to tliem. showed a r(»ck jirecipice on the east side surmounted by a big cornice of snow and was joined by a rounded ice col to the noithern peak, which was some- what lup'her, and from which r.in down two ridjies, one eastward in a straight line towards the vallev, the other north- 178 Peaks of the Central Groii]). Avestward, slioiitlv coiicavc, and teniiiuating in a cliaracteristic shoulder. The })eak and the ridges are overhiuii;' hy a gigantic cornice, supported hv a colonnade of icicles and aiguilles of ice which at a distance seem like a line white lacework. Hound al)Out tbeni the snow had the pale, lack-lustre lnie of had weather. For one moment a ray of siuilight lit it up, hut was immediately cpienched by the dense clouds wliicli were piling up rapidly from the east. Gusts of wind were AI.EXAXDEA AND MAKGHERITA TEAKS FROM THE STANLEY i'LATEAT. blowing from the east, and layers of mist were ascending the valley in compact masses and soon slnit in the party com- ])letely. They continued their way in silence. Witbout the least uncertainty, with a sure intuition of the rigbt direction, Josepli Petigax made bis way through the dense mists 179 N L' Chapter VI. and ascended the liii;li ])laiii as far as tlie foot of the south-east ridge of tlie southernmost peak. The liard snow, which carried tlieni, allowed them to climl) swiftly up the wide snowv ridire, cuttino- onlv a few steps at tlie stee])est points. P>v 7.;^0 a.m. they reached the top of the first peak. (JI.IMBIXG THE SOITII-KAST KIIXJK OF ALKXAXl )|;A I'F.AK. A strouii' wind was hlowini'- from the east. lioniid aho\it them the dazzling- white of the mist was impenetrahle to the sight. Everyone liad liis mind fixed upon the highest summit, wliicli was only a few hundri-d yards off, Imt quite invisible, and they stood there waiting and turning their eyes f)hstinatelv northward. During an hour and a-half 18U 'J ^ ^ ^ Peaks of the Central Group. there were only brief moments wlieii tlie mist would otow shghtly thinner, so tliat they could just make out the uncertain outline of tlie highest peak. There were only two ways to reach it. Thev must either descend to the gap and thence attempt to scale the ice wall overhung hy the formidable cornice, or tliev must return to the plateau, cross it under the col, and ascend l)v the east ridge, a long and indirect way, which would have to 1)e done in the fog without any sign to p;uide them. As to the question of giving up the ascent for that day and returning to camp, a glance at the set determined faces of the guides was sufficient to show tliat such an idea never entered their minds. By nine o'clock they could not endure waiting anv longer, CLIMBING ALEXANDRA TEAK. and they decided to take the mountain by the shortest route, which was also tlic more daiip-erous, and one after another they started down the slope which led to the col. They 181 C^iaptcr VI. proceeded witli tlidr faces turned to tlie wall, placing" their feet with caution in the wide steps whicli Petigax cut in the snow, wliich was fortiniately liartl and hore them well. The col is a narrow stri}) of ice hetween two wide crevasses [hciu/scJu'innJ) : tiiese crevasses pass from one peak to another without a single hridge. It was impossihle to turn to the right or to the left ; tliev could onlv u"o straip'ht forward to the ice wall, wliich thev could harelv make out through the mist. Where tlu^ slope commenced to hecome steep thev ])ut down their rucksacks and other mmecessarv impedimenta, and Petigax set to work again. Tliev soon stood nearly vertically one ahove tlu^ other, climhing slowlv hv the steep steps wdiich Petigax cut in the ice wall, showering down a hail of snow and ice upon the others. Below them the wall was almost immediatelv swallowed up ill tlie mist, so that thev seemed suspended over a hottondess ahvss. ill this wav thev I'eached the hottom of the cornice where the pendant icicles, joining the upright ice needles, formed a colonnade as thick as the trees in a foi'est. upon which rested the heavv snow-dome whose solidity was open to douht. The etlect seen through the mist A\as strange and wend. In their insecure position, liol(hng fist to the steep slo])e, thev had to climh around the ice columns to reach the point where the cornice jutted out from the ice wall in order to find a passage. This jjassage thev i'ouiid in a cleft of the cornice which formed a narrow \'ei'tical gullv some si.\ feel high. ( )llier. standing tiriiiK- upon a wide step, ser\-ed as a laddei- i'or Petigax, who chinhed on his shouldei's and then upon liis lieaif with his heavv nailed Ixxjts, and stuck his ice-axe liriiiK' in tlie snow ahove the cornice. In this wa\' he hoisteil liiniself on to the t(»p. It was easv enough for the others to join liiiii. i'he lidge was now ISl' EI>ENA AM) SA^'(»IA I'KAlvS, AS SKKN b'ltO.M TIIK SIANiJ.V (M.ACIKR Peaks of the Central Group. vaii(|iii.shed. Tn a few iniiuites H.ll.H. .set foot upon tlie In^liest peak of Ruwenzori. They emerged from the mist into splendid clear sunligiit. At their feet lay a sea of fog. An impenetrahle layer of liglit ashy- white cloud-drifts, stretcliing as far as the eye could reach, was drifting rapidly nortli-westward. From the inmiense moving surface emerged two fixed points, two puie white j)eaks sparkling in the sun with their myriad snow crystals. These were the two extreme sunmiits of tlie highest peaks. The Duke of the Ahruzzi named these sunnnits Marglierita and Alexandra " in order tliat, under the auspices of tliese two royal ladies, the memory of tlie two nations may he lianded down to posterity — of Italy, whose name was tlie first to resound on these snows in a shout of victory, and of England, which in its maryellous colonial expansion carries civilization to tlie slopes of these remote mountains."*'' It was a thrilling moment when the little tricolour tlag, given by H.M. Queen Marglierita of Savoy, unfurled to the wind and sun the emliroidered letters of its insj)iring motto " Ai'disci e Spera " (Dare and Hope). The wind was blowhig up rather fresh from the south-east with a temperature of 23°"4F. Calculations from the observa- tions taken p-ave a lieioht of 1G,815 feet for Margherita Peak, and 16,749 feet for Alexandra Peak. It was now 1I.:]0 a.m. They had taken about half an liour to o-et down fiom the tirst peak to the col, and an liour and a-half to climb from the col to Peak Maro-herita. These hours were full of intense excitement, owing to their perpetual fear of seeing the \\'ay blocked by some insuperable obstacle. Margherita Peak is all covered with snow, and not a single * See " C4eographical Journal," February, 1907, p. 138. 185 Chapter \L rock comes to the surface. The eastern niul ^^■estern rid^'es seemed to offer easy routes to tlie summit. Thev remained less than liaU* an li(»ur on the peak. Tliere was no hope of the mists (hsappearing tliat dav, and after tinishiui;' the l)ar()metric and thermometric ohservations, and enjoyhig the first entliusiasm of victory, they began to feel the penetratiui;' cold of the w ind. There was an impressive sense of solitude in perching u])on this narrow snowy ridge, with the whole eartli cut off fVoiii tliem hy the mist. Glaciers, precipices and peaks, valleys ;nid plains, lakes and forests, were all veiled by the dense layer of fog, intt-rposed like a l)arrier between the burning i-egions of Equatorial Africa and the eternal Alpine sno\\s. They re-descend('(l the ice wall, resumed their loads, and retuined to Alexandra Peak. Bv '2.20 p.m. they returned to tlieir tent. A few hours later they were all four stricken witli snow-blindness. Thev had been exposed during the whole dav to the dazzlino- whiteness of tlie foo-. and unable to make use of their black spectacles, with which it was impossible to see anything at all. They s])ent tlie night and the following day in tlie tent. l)atliing their swollen and weeping eyes with tea. Oil the f )llowing day, 20th of June, thev were all much better, so earlv in the nioniiiig thev started from the tent in very fine weathtM-. and returned to Alexandra P(^ik ])v the same path which thev had taken two (lavs before. Tlie Duke arrived on the to]) about ".-"•O a.m.. and worked for a long time at measuring the angles of the ])eaks and the salient points of the tham. He set out ai-'aiii at *.).() a.m. I)rifts of f>e •^\('l•t. now beuhminir to invade the scen<\ Thev returned to the high glacier-plain and set forth for tlie t\\<» fme rock and ice j)eaks which stood at its southern extremitv. Peaks of the Central Group. Half ail hour latn- they attacked tlic iieaivr of tlit- two, starting- up a gully oii tlie eastern side. About half- way up. where it was steepest, they left tlie snow to cliiiih on to the f:LP:XA AND SAVOIA PEAKS FltoM THE RIDCE ABOVE CAMP IV rocks to the left of the gullv. which were steep and not easy, with few hand-holds xerv inconveniently disposed. Then they came Ijack into the gullv, and followed it up to the top, where there was an indentation in the ridoe. Throuo'h this thev traversed the west side, facing the Congo, and clinihing up easier rocks, reached the smnniit. Here they spent an hour in contemplating the peaks and glacieis w hich kept appearing and 187 Chapter VI. disappearing in the eoiitiimal fonnatioii and (hssohition of tlie mists. Towards twelve o'clock tliev onct^ more set ont. following- the ridge southward. In the narrow indentation IjetweeiL the CAMP NKAK SCOTT Kl.l.lo'lS I'ASS. two points there is a sliarp tooth of rock with a pieci})ice whicli falls down towards thf I-Jujukn Valley. 'J'hey skirted this easily over tlie snow slopes on the Coni;'o side. From this point, first 188 Peaks of tlie Central Group. over a snowy ridge and then over rocks, they readied tlie ice- cap which terminates the second peak. The Duke of the Al)ruzzi gave the name Elena to the first of these two peaks, 16,388 feet, as a homage to our gracious Queen, and the name of Savoia to the second, 16,339 feet. All the Wmv princi|)al peaks of the central group liad now heen ascended. Thev could see the camp wliicli tliey liad left that verv niornino- almost vertically under their feet. Thev could even hear tlie sliouts of the rest of the expedition, wlio had arrived at the camp from Bujongolo a few liours Ijefore. Towards 2.o() }).m. they hegan the descent, not returning on their steps. l)ut proceeding southward along the glacier whicli covers the peak, and then descending the eastern rock wall as tar as a wide gully, whicli hrought them hack to the glacier a little ahove the camp. A few minutes later the Duke was met with great rejoicing bv his companions, and the wliole expedition was now once more united. In the space often davs H.R.H. had ascended Kiyanja and the four ice peaks of tlie principal group of mountains, had accomplished an extensive triangulation, and identified the position and distribution of the several peaks in relation to the chief valleys. The 21st of June was given up to rest. The camjj was adorned bv clothes drving in the sun on the taut cords of the tents, whicli were now f )ur in number. The guides spent the day in sleep. 'J'he afternoon was misty ; higher up it was snowing. The silence of the mountains reigned around, broken now and again by the roaring of an ice avalanche falling into the Bujuku Valley. The different members of the expedition reported what they had done during the last days. 189 Chapter XL On the lotli of June, soon after the Duke's departure, a party of porters laden witli ])r()visions, hidudino- baskets of fowls and a few sheep, liad arrived at Bujonoolo, and the silent and nearly deserted camp liad become suddenly full of noise. With their help, on the 16th Sella and Roccati set out in Stairs Peak. >ll'- l-l Kil I'l SAVOIA SKKN FKOM IIIK sol Til KIlKiK oF KDWAKI. I'KAK.* their turn for tlic watrrslicd e(»l. brin<'in<'- mountain eami) equipment and ])li()t(»i;i;n)liir a])])aratus. Tliey pitched tlieir tents iimnediatelv bcvond tlic c-ol on a slonino- rock and made a shelter of tent canvas ibr tlic jKU'ters. The fo»'- Avas dense, the wind and cold biting. For note, .•<'■/' following page. 190 Peaks of the Central Group. On the followiiio- day, during some l)riet' openings in the fog. Sella photographed views from the col and t'loin a rock-point on the ridge near the camp. The very same evening the Bakonjos, ^vl^o had been sent back by the Duke from Camp IV, arrived witli Laurent Petigax and B<»tta. Sella Peak. AVeismaiiu Peak. :mt. luigi ni sanoia skkx fkom the soith laixa-: t>y i;!iWAia> pkak."^ Everything was frozen and covered with hoar fio.st. The natives passed the night around a big fire, wrapped in blankets and cloaks which Sella and Roccati gave up to them. The cold was intense, and a thunderstorm was raging. :es. Thev took advantao-e of hrlef clearin&s in tlie mist to climh th(^ noi'th-east point of the grouj), which they reached after three Iiours of ascent, partly over rocks and partly upon the easy glacier to the west. They remained upon this peak until foui- in the afternoon, and were several times beguiled by apparent meltings of the fog into setting up the photographic apparatus. Night surjDrised them on their way down into the valley to rejoin their comrades. They lost the track and wandered about u})on the steep slope in the forest of lobelia and senecio, among the dense helicbrysum, seeking for a way in the darkness intensified by the mist, and slipping at every step in the mud and on the damp and mossy rocks. At last their comrades heard their shouts and sent t^^'o o-uides to meet them with a lantern. Thev soon reached the camp near the lake, surrounded by the tires of the natives. ( )n the following day they all reached the fourth camp, from which they were able to descry the Duke's party on the sky line on the summit of Savoia Peak. CHAPTER VII. FORMATIOX AND GeXERAL FEATURES OF THE RuwENzoRc Range. Ruvveiizori and the " Albertine Depression " — lielatiou to the Nile Basin — Nomenclature — H.R.H.'s Map — The Six Groups of Snow Peaks — The Watershed — The Distribution of the Valleys — What preceding Explorers saw of the Mountains — Confusion of Names and Topography — Altimetric Measurements — The Geology of the Range — The Glaciers — Flora and Fauna. The stoiy of the exploration of tlie two cliief groups of peaks has put us iu possession of sufficient data to permit of our giving at tliis point a systematic description of the Ruwenzori range. A more detailed know- ledge of the distrihution of the groups of tlie range and of their position with respect to the valleys will lielp to render the account of the suhsecpieiit work of the expedition l)oth quicker and easier. The Ruwenzori chain is distinp-uished ])V extremelv remarkable orohydrographical features. Most of the con- tinents slope gradually from the summits of their mountain 193 o i Chapter VII. ranges down to tlielr liigli central plateaux and thence to the coast level. In Africa, on the contrai-y, Unwenzori rises from the so-called " Albertine Depression," a low district formino- a reo'ion about 000 to 700 feet below the average level of Ug:anda, and containinof the l)asins of Lake Albert and of Lake Albert Edward ^^•itb its northern prolongation, Lake Dwern or lliiisainba. The whole of tliis depression forms simply a portion of the western " rift." The " rifts " consist of two gigantic trenches, from 20 to 50 miles in width, nmning nearly parallel to one another, witli an interval of 6° longitude, and cnttinp- through tlie continent from Lake Nvassa north- ward. The easternmost of the two follows the oGth meridian as far as Lake Rudolpli, beyond which it inclines towards the Ked Sea. The western rift runs between the 29th and 30tli meridian and comes to an end near Gondokoro in the Upper Nile Valley. Either rift includes a nearly continuous chain of lakes and numerous mountains and volcanic cones and craters. Either rift is divided !)y a transversal watershed into two separate hydrographic systems, one to tlie north, the other to the soutli. In the case of the eastern rift this I'idge is near Lake Naiwasha, about where the Uganda Kailway traverses the depression. In the western rift the watershed is formed by a veritable range of volcanic moimtains of which some are still active at tlie present time. This range divides tlie chain of lakes into two distinct systems. The southern system includes Lakes Kivu and Tanganika ; the northern system, Lakes Albert Edward and Albert. At the southern extremity of the Iiuwenzori chain the rift bifurcates : one branch runs to the east of the chain and terminates at the foot of the heights which enclose the 194 Formation and General Features of lluwenzori. l)asiii of Lake Ruisaniba to the uortli and upon wliicli are situated Toro and Fort Portal ; the other branch joasse's to tlie M-est of the range and forms the Senihki Valley and the husiii of Lake Albert, and is prolonged for several huiuh-ed miles by the upper valley of the Nile. lluwenzori is thus nearlv completely surrounded by the "■ Albertine Depression," and forms MJth the three lakes an independent hydrograpliic svstem absolutely distinct from that of Lake Victoria. Thus it is that this Kuwenzori rano;e slieds the waters of all its slopes east, west, north and south into one and tlie same river basin, feeding almost unassisted tlie three lakes and the Semliki, which together form the south-western sources of the Nile. Fui'thermore, lluwenzori l)eing without doubt the most considerable group of snowy mountains on the African continent, and situated in the middle of tliat continent, and running in the direction of its main axis, does not form a portion of its main watershed. The actual watershed between the Congo and the Nile consists of a line of low hills, lying at a short distance to the w^est of the Semliki, and masked by the great Congo forest, running northw^ard along Lake Albert, prolonged south w^ard in tlie volcanic chain which forms the dividino- rido-e of the rift, between Lakes Kivu and Albert Edward, and finally skirtino- the eastern shores of Lake Kivu and of Lake Tanganika. The Duke of the Abruzzi preserves to the chain the name of Ruwenzori, given to it by its first discoverer, Stanley, and adopted since then by tlie majority of geographers. Stanley had heard the natives dwelling to the north and w^est of these mountains call them by tlie names Ruwenzori, Ukonju, Bugombowa, Avuruka, Avirika, Iluwenzuru-ru, lluwenjura, etc. He was of opinion tiiat 195 o 1' Chapter VII. Ruwenzori was tlie iianie nicest commonly in use in Bantu, and that it was to Ix* translated as " King of the Clouds,"' or " Kain-maker." Stuldmann gathered the names Ilu-nssoro and Ru-ndjuru from the Wanvoro and Wakonjo natives. In tlieir dialects Niuru and Nssoro signify rain, Avliicli confirms Stanley's mterpretation of the name hut with a considerable change in the orthograpiiv. David also wrote Ku-nssoro ; he also heard the highest peaks called Kokora. Scott Elliot gives Runsororo as the native name, and says that he lieard from many stmrces the name Kiriba, which would mean "■ high peak." According to A. B. Fisher, tlie natives of Uganda have no collective name to indicate the entire range, but only separate names for the individual peaks. He gives, however, the names Bwenzozi and Bwenseri, which he interprets as meaning " Mountain of Mountains " or " The Mountain " ^«r excellence, or as " Tlie Mountain off there," indicating direction. Birika which resembles the Yirika of Casati, and Avuruka and the other variations of Stanley, would simply mean " snow." Sir Harry Jolinston hciird thr siiowv portion of the chain called Euchurru by the Nyoro natives ; as Ansororo (suom) in Lukonjo ; wliile among the Southern Bakonjos he gathered the name Obweruka ; among tlie Banjoro, Ebirika ; among the Baamba, to tin- nort1i-\ve.st of the range, Gusia ; among the Baganda, Gambaragara, etc. In so great an uncertainty as to the nomenclature, Stanley had every right to select a name, and even if his transcription should not l)e held to correspond with euphonic exactitude to the native word, yet it might be best to keep 1 *.»(•) Formation and General Features of Kuwenzori. it as it stands, evtMi wore it only out of respect to tlie great explorer. After all. had Stanley given the range a name which had nothhig to do with the native names, had lie called it, for example, " Momitains of the Moon,"' or " Mountains of Ptolemy," or " Victoria Mountains,' or any similar name, all geographers would have accepted his choice without discussion and without any attem})t to modity it. These brief remarks upon the name of liuweiizori will suffice to indicate the impossibility of attempting to gather local native names for each special mountain and peak of tlie range. So far similar attempts have given as a result a separate nomenclature for each explorer. It is extremely probable that the natives never liad individual, specific names for each peak, all tlie more so if we reflect that in our ow]i P^uropean Alps, many peaks received their name only after tlie advent of Alpine climbing. It was clearly indispensable to give to the Ruwenzori range some sort of nomenclature, which is the only means of translating into current language the topographical survey of a region. Out of natural courtesy towards those of his predecessors who had already christened some of the mountains, the Duke, after his return from Africa, interviewed Sir Harry Johnston and Dr. Stuhlmann upon this subject. An agreement was easy, because both of these great authorities shared the opinions of the Prince, who proposed to give to these mountains the names of tra\'ellers long associated with the history of (Central African exploration, and confining to single peaks those names which Stuhlmann had given to whole portions of the range. '^ * Sir Harry Johnston had already suggested that the mountains shouUl be called by the names of celel)rated explorers in those cases where no precise and specific native names were forthcoming. {Sr>- "The Uganda Protectorate," ■2u(\ YA., London, 1904, Vol. I, p. 159.) 197 Chapter \^II. The map of Ruweiizorl is the chief geographical result of the Italian Expedition. This map was drawn u|) from data consistino" of numerous ano-ular measurements carried out ])v the Duke from the different peaks hy means of the prismatic compass, wliich were completed by the mensuration of a hase line of 300 yards taken on ground near to Bujongolo, by Commander Cagni. and by liim connected with Kiyanja (the Edward Peak of Mt. Baker), and with a rocky peak (Cagni Peak) situated to tlie nortli-east of Bujongolo, from tlie smnniit of which Cao-ni himself took all the anoies of the peaks with a iield tl)eodolite. Last of all. tlie calculation of the longitude and latitude of Bujongolo permits us to put the chain in its place on the map of Africa. "* The observations were taken in unfavourable atmospheric conditions, nor was it possible in all cases to take them with an instrument of precision so heavy, delicate, and cumbersome as the theodolite. In spite of tliese drawbacks the topographical sketch may be considered as fairly accurate, because it is based upon numerous observations often repeated over and over again at the same points, and which are in great part reciprocal, so as to admit of mutual verification one from another. The raiuj'e of Ruwenzori is situated less than half a deoree north of the equator, and about 30° long. E. Greenwich. * Atconling to the map aniicxoil to this vohime, Bujongoht is situated at 0° 20' 23" hit. X., and 30 1' .'U" long. E. Greenwich. The numheis are a few seconds ahove those given on the map which accompanies the lecture of H.R.H. before the Italian Geographical Society, and pul)lished in Fasc. 2, Part 2, Vol. VTIl of the " Bollettino," because it was only later that he obtained from the Astronomical Observatory of (Greenwich the necessary data f(^r the correction of the huiar tables contained in the ephemerids in order to assign its exact value to the stiaight ascent of the moon. 1 OS Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. The general direction is north and south, and the shape is very nearly that of a written G. The principal groups would compose the main curve of* the G, while one group only, tliat farthest south, would represent the tail of the letter. The range consists of six mountains, i.e., groups of peaks with glaciers, divided from one another hy cols without snow% and therefore quite clearly distinct from one another. The area actually covered by glaciers is a little more than seven miles long in a straight line from south to north, and about four miles wide from east to west. The length of the watershed ridge, including all the groups, that is to say, the entire snowy range, is about 11 miles long. The chain begins in the north with two groups, two parallel snow ridges running nearly due north and soutli. The eastern- most of these was named by the Duke Mt. Gessi, in memory of the Italian explorer who was the first to circumnavigate Lake Albert. The western group was named Mt. Emin, after Emin Pasha, wlio traversed the Semliki Valley for the first time wdth Stanley. Mt. Emin joins Mt. Speke, which bears the name of the first discoverer of the sources of the Nile in Lake Victoria. After Mt. Sj)eke the chain turns westward, rises to the highest group, rightly called Mt. Stanley, and sweeps around in an eastward curve to the group which bears the name of Baker, the discoverer of Lake Albert, who liad the first glimpse of the mountain ranges of Ruwenzori. Last of all, the group to the soutli of Mt. Baker, which runs from north-east to south-west, had l)een called by H.R.H. Mt. Thomson, in memory of J. Thomson, whose work in Nigeria is well known. But after his return to Europe the Duke was forced to yield to the proposal of the English Geographical 199 Chapter \\\. Society, which desired tluit liis own name should he ni some way connected witli his (hscoveries, and that Mt. Thomson should he called ^It. Lui^i ch Savoia. The name of Thomson has heen preserved to indicate one of the glaciers of the same i;ronj). ^^ ■ •■ -fc. ^^ll^..,...<^:kJ>^,' m » m ..^^^^ ^^m^f^i ^ ^^' ■^ '^/\ 1 -''4 « ^N ■ * 1 ^^^^T^^^r^ ^^^V ^■^ ' .^w) / - ."^> MT. STAMKV l-i;ii.M 111'. i;iiN\Ai;ii I'KAK (»F MT. lUKKK. Mt. Stanley is tlir i^'i'onp wliich includes the highest peaks of all. iiaiiielv, Margherita (1(),815 feet), Alexandra (16,741J feet), P:iena (l(i,388 feet), and Savoia (16,339 feet). There is a fifth peak, Moehius. hetween Elena and Alexandra, and somewhat lower than Savoia, of which the heio-jit has not })een measured. The so-called " western-most smnmit " of Mt, Stanley, mentioned hy Freshfield,* and visible from Butiti, * See "Oeog. Jour.,'' L".»tli .Mairli. I'.toT, j). :V27. ■200 il to X^ Formation and (leneral Features of Hinvenzori. iippeariiig conspicuously to the right of Marghei'ltu Peak on the panorama taken by H.R.H. from Mt. Gessi, is not so much a real peak as a projecting shoulder upon the noitli-west ridge of Margherita Peak as may be clearly seen on the plate facing p. 178. Next in height comes Mt. Speke with its two peaks, Vittorio Emanuele (16,080 feet) and Johnston (15,1)06 feet). Mt. Baker follows with Edward Peak (15,988 feet) and Semper Peak (15,848 feet), wliicli were the first climbed l)v the \01!TH-WEST SHOULDER OF MARCiHERlTA PEAK. Duke. To the east of these are Wollaston Peak (15,286 feet), named after Dr. Wollaston, w^ho was the first to ascend it, and Moore Peak (15,269 feet). The rocky spur on the ridge at the top of the Mobuku Glacier has preserved the name of Grauer wlio was the first to discover it. Of the two northernmost groups Mt. Emin includes Chapter ^11. Umberto Peak (15,797 feet)'" and Kraepeliii Peak (15,752). Mt. Gessi includes lolanda Peak (15,647 feet) and Bottego Peak (15,483 feet). Last of all, Mt. Luigi di Savoia includes the Peaks Weismann (15, 291) feet). Sella (15,286 feet) and Stairs (15,059 feet). The rocky point, opposite Bujongolo (14,826 feet), is named after Cagni, wlio climbed it to complete from it the triangulation. The principal glaciers have taken tlieir names from the peaks from Avliicli they flow down. The five passes which separate the six groups from one another have been named, proceeding from north to south, Koccati, Cavalli, Stuhlmann, Scott Elliot and Freshfield. They are all above 14,000 feet in height, except Stuhlmann's Col between the two 2)rinci})al grou])s, Speke and Stanley, whicli is only 13,757 feet high. Tlie Duke of the Abruzzi has left the native names used by the Bakonjo t(> tlie valleys, lakes, rivers and torrents. When, however, tlie names were numerous, he took no account of them ; and lie also left without name those valleys, lakes and torrents oJi the western slopes which were unknown to the Bakonjo. It remains for some future explorer to gather the native names from the western tribes. * Umberto Peak is 15,797 feet high and not 15,907 as was printed by error in the map leprocbiccd from that of the Italian Expedition by the Royal Geographical Society, and published with H.ll.H.'s London lecture in the "Geographical Journal " for February, 1907. The same map also assigns to Moebius Peak of Stanley an altitude of 16,214 feet. This altitude is merely approximate, Ijecause no barometrical observation was taken on Moebius Peak. Also the altitude of Weismann Peak is 15,299 feet and not 15,273 feet. 1 take this oppoitunit^' to note that the highest peak of Mt. Baker and the second peak of Mt. Stanley are to be called simpl}' Edward Peak and Alexandra Peak, not King Edward and Queen Alexandra ; by analogy with the names Margherita, Yittorio Emanuele, and Elena Peaks, and also with the nomenclature adopted in the neiglil)Ouring regions, e.g., Lake Victoria, Lake Albert, etc. 202 Topographical Skebch oF theVailey System of bhe RUWEINZORI RANGE V. ale 1278200 Uss„u ■if /\ ^.J!^..gnize Margherita Peak and Mt. Speke confused in a single group in the view taken fi-om Kavalli to the north of the mountains. and reproduced on p. '2'M) of " In I)arkest Africa,'"' Vol. 11. •JO I Format ion and (itMieral Features of IJuwenzori. The nKniiitain of wliicli Stairs cauglit a glimpse ou liis wav ujt a vallev to the north-west of the chain, perhaps the Kussiriil)! Yallev. was prohahly Mt. Emiii. Tliis mountain is ilhistrated on p. 25(5 of the ahove-mentioned vohnne, and this view, taken from the west, corresponds fairly in appearance to Mt. Emin from the east in the photographic panorama taken hv H.R.H. from the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi. [See illustration, p. 241.) As to tlie '' Saddle Peak" of Stanley, it certainl}" corresponds to the two peaks Alexandra and Margherita, which stand in a line runnino- north-east to south-west. To any one observino- them as Stanley did from the north-west or soutli-east, they would appear as twin peaks, whereas one would be hidden l)y tlie other if tlie observer stood in a line with them. More exact accounts of the chain have been p-iven to us by Stuhlmann, The more or less schematic illustration of the chain, as seen from the southern part of the Semliki Valley to the south-west of the great peaks, and reproduced on p. 281 of Stuhlmann's book,* can easily be identified on the map of H.Pi.H. There is no doul)t that tlie central and greatest mountain group given by Stuhlmann under tlie name " Semper" is to be identified with the Mt. Stanley ; hence, the two moun- tains to its right, designated by Stuhlmann with the names Weismann and Moebius, cannot be anything but Mt. Baker and Mt. Luip'i di Savoia. As to the mountain called by Stuhlmann Kraepelin, whose summits are barely visible at a consideral)le distance from Semper, this must be Mt. Emin. From Stuhlmann's point of observation, Mt. Speke must liave been hidden by Mt. Stanley, or only partly visible, and easily con- founded with it. This fact, namely, the omission of Mt. Speke * Dr. F. Stuhlmann, "Mit Emin Pasha ins Herz von Africa," Berh'n, 1894. 205 Cliai)ter VII. from Stulilniaiiu's diagram, became later on, as we shall see, one of the chief causes of confusion in the attempt to collate the view of tlie chain from tlie east with Stuhlmanirs description of the cliain as seen from the west. w-^ ',;,>--' . „.„ ■ . Jftmr^ ■ — .: ■'. , '"'■f >■ ' -J*-- . '^^^^'^ff - MT. .STANLEY JKoM THE WE.ST, EKU.M A J'lK )Ti »( iltA I'l I lAKHX IN THE HUTAGU VALLEY ]!Y DR. F. STUHL^rANN. By the kind permission of Dr. Stulihnann and his ])nl)lisliers we are able to reproduce the very interesting and tine engraving which faces p. 188 of his l)ook, and was made from a plioto- graph which he took from the highest point reached l)y him in the Butami Valley, a liill 13.32() feet above the sea, and separated from the glaciers by a depression containing a little lake. In the sequel, we shall hear of the excursion made by Sella on the glaciers of the western slope, descending from the col ill the centre of Mt. Stanley between Moebius Peak and Alexandra Peak. In the course of this excursion he was able 1206 Formation and General Features of Tiinvenzori. to take several photographs from the western slopes, which, when compared with this plate of Stuhlmann's l)ook, leave no doubt as to its representing the western slopes of* Mt. Stanley. It shows, proceeding from left to right, the long sno\A'y ridge wliicli forms the characteristic north-western shoulder of Maro-herita Peak, which Is hidden behind the \ast cone of Alexandra Peak, Vertically l)elow the ridi>'e to the rio-jit of Alexandia WESTERN SIDE OF ALEXANDRA I'HAK. Peak, at the foot of the glacier, may be seen a sharp, rocky point, which was climbed by Sella in tlie course of liis photographic expedition. Alexandra Peak is succeeded in this 207 Chapter VII. plate by Moebius Peak, then Eleiui Peak and Savoia Peak, witli tlie little tooth of rock between them, which is also clearly visible t'loni tlie east. With relation to the })oint readied by Stuhlmaun, and from wbicli tliis |)hot()L;ra|)b was taken, Brix Forster, in an article* in which he attempts to collate the preceding explorations of Piuwenzori with that of the Duke of the Abruzzi, is of opinion that this point was near the little lakes to the west of Mt. Baker, in sight of the valley traversed by the Italian expedition to climb to Scott Elliot's Col. A mere glance at the map makes it MOEBIUS PEAK Flt( »M THE WEST. (jiiite plain tliat it was impossible that from any point situated so far to the south of Mt. Stanley the peaks should appear as they do in Stuhlmann's photograph. ( )n the other hand, it is prol)able that the little lake Kigessi-Kissongo, which Stulilmann saw between himself and the mountains was t)ne of those drawn in the map to the west of Mt. Stanley under ♦ See in "Globus," Vol. XCI, 1907, p. 345. 208 Formation and General Features of Euwenzori. Point Moebius. In fact, looking from tliis point towards the chain, Alexandra Peak ninst have nearly entirely covered Margherita Peak, while the Moebius, Elena and Savoia Peaks must have been visible nearly straigiit in front, as they ai-e shown in the plate. Brix Forster's article contains other inaccuracies. From the upper valley of Butagu, Stuhlmann saw no other mountains l^eyond the two photographed by him, nor is there any mention in his book of a third mountain beyond, of which he had caught any glimpse in the opening between THE FOOT OF THE GLACIERS FLOWING WEST OF ALEXANDKA AND MOEBIUS PEAKS. the two. The interpretation of Moore's ascent is entirely erroneous, nor did Moore see from the ridge the other mountain groups, as the author states. The valley ascended by David could not be the Russurubi, for the Russurubi does not lead to any col near 16,000 feet. Finally, Brix Forster is mistaken in writing that Dr. Wollaston ascended the Semper Peak of Mt. Baker. He also states in his article that the highest peaks of Ruwenzori are rocky. 209 1' Chapter VII. We are able also to reproduce Stuhlmann's photograph from tlie same point of another mountain which he believed to be adjacent to, and to the south of Mt. Stanley, the mountain which he had called Weismann and which, as we have seen, corresponds to Mt. Baker. In reality, this MOUNT LUIGI DI SAVOIA SEEX FROM THE UPPER BUTAGU VALLEY. (After the photogritphhy Dr. F. Stuhlmann.) mountain was completely hidden from his sight by the southern spurs of Mt. Stanley, and the moimtain in his plate must be the Mt. Luigi di Savoia, the very same which he had called Moebius. The first description of the appearance of the mountains from the east is given by Moore, who seems to have been the only one before H.R.H. to have seen the mountains from the Wimi Valley. Moore had, however, a far better opportunity for observation because, being obliged to descend towards the 210 Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. plain, and to go further from the nioinitains to seek for a ford across the River Wimi, which was swollen, he was able to see the entire chain, not only the single mountains. This view is reproduced in a plate in colours placed opposite the frontispiece of his book.* This plate contains in the middle, and plainly recognizable, Mt. Stanley and Mt. Speke. To their left stretches a snowy ridge of uncertain outline and long enough to comprise the peaks of Mt. Baker and those of Mt. Luigi di Savoia. To the right, separated from Mt. Speke by a wide interval, is another snow peak, Mt. Gessi. On reaching the Mobuku Valley and ascending it as far as SAVOIA PEAK TAKEN FROM ALEXANDRA PEAK; MT. LUIGI DI SAVOIA IN THE BACKGROUND. Bujongolo, where he established his first camp, Moore fell into an error, which was subsequently shared by all his successors from Sir Harry Johnston to Dr. WoUaston, and Mhicli became the chief cause of the uncertainty which reigned up to the Duke's exploration as to the position of the peaks. This error * J. E. S. Moore, "To the xMountains of the Moon," London, 1901. 211 P 2 Chapter VII. consisted in his behet that at this point in the Mobiiku Valley he was in the midst of the highest mountains of the chain which he had already seen from the plain at the foot of the Wimi Valley, and he still further increased the confusion by attempting to identify them with those described and identified by Stuhlmann from tlie ^\•estern slope. It is not easy to make out Moore's ascent. Upon an attentive perusal of his narrative, collated with H.R.H.'s map, the reader is led to suppose that on reaching the head of the Mobuku Valley he started to ascend to the left (that is to say, on the right slope of the valley) initil he reached the glacier which he calls the central glacier, in other words the Baker's Glacier of H.R.H.'s map,* by which glacier he would reach the ridge at a point between Semper Peak and Grauer's Kock. As a matter of fact, however, in order to reach the Baker Glacier fi-om the valley it would be necessary to climb rocks and gullies presenting such exceptional difficulties as to be surmountable only by a party of ti-ained mountaineers — certainly not by a single white man accompanied by ]iative porters. It is more probable that Moore began to climb the right slope of the valley at an earlier point. In this way he would have reached the Edward Glacier and ascended it to the southern ridge of the Edward Peak. Sir Harry Johnston attempted to reconstruct the chain as seen from a hypothetical point to its east, basing his conception upon the observations taken by preceding explorers. The representation thus obtained l)y liim is much further from the truth than that of Stuhlmann and of Moore. From the * The glacier is clearly shown in one of Moore's ilhistrations (p. 246), and also in a plate of Sir Harry Johnston's, " The I'ganda Protectorate," 2nd Ed., London, 1904, Vol. I, p. 17t<. 212 _, S < r=^ ^^ > < :o' t> X cJ ~" r g O r=. r ^ S X X H S ^" -N cc" -; o' 2 ^^^ f=H X >C Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. Lower Mobiiku Valley lie saw a great snowy mountain which he named Duwoni. He gives a fine illustration of this moun- tain on p. 158 of his book. There is no doubt that tliis is to be identified with Mt. Speke. On reaching Bujongolo he believed himself to have reached the foot of this same Duwoni, whereas in reality he had been going further from it from Nakitawa onward. He furthermore believed that Mt. Kiyanja (Baker) was Mt. Semper of Stuhlmann, and that Duwoni (Speke) was Peak Weismann. Mr. Freshfield, as well as the Duke, was able to have a complete view of the range from Butiti, on the way between Entebbe and Fort Portal. He enumerates ''• the mountains of E-uwenzori as follows, from left to right : — 1st, a massive rocky group with patches of snow, which he calls South Peak, and which is Mt. Luigi di Savoia ; 2nd, a wide col, which is the col above the Mobuku Valley which now bears his name ; 3rd, a bold peak of rock and glacier, the Kiyanja of Johnston ; 4th, the undulating ridge covered with glacier which from this last group leads to the highest snow peak, and which Mr. Freshfield takes to be the Duwoni of Johnston, but which is in reality Margherita Peak. Duwoni or Speke, as a matter of fact, does not appear as an isolated mountain when seen from Butiti, but seems to form a single group with Mt. Stanley. It may be of use to the reader at this point to compare Mr. Freshfield's description with the outline of the range as seen from Butiti, taken from Sella's tele-photograph, and with the addition of the new names. On reachinof the head of the Mobuku Valley, Mr. Freshfield would appear to have fallen into the same error as his predecessors, for he describes it as * D. W. Freshfield, 'A note on the Ruwenzori Group,' " The Geographical Journal," May, 1906, Vol. XXVII, p. 4f01. { Lieutenant T. T. Behrens, ' The Snow renks of liuwenzori,' " The (ieographicHl Journal," July, 1906, Vol. XXYIII, p. 4.3. i'16 Formation and General Features of Iiuwenzori. months of residence in the rejj,ions close to the chain durinu- tlie work of the An o-lo- German Boimdarv Commission. Behren's article contains in clear and succinct sliape the net result of all that was known about Ruwenzori previous to tlie Italian Expedition. The followino: table, in wlilch the names i^iven to the mouQtains by dirterent travellers are placed in order with reference to those marked upon the Italian map, illustrates the confusion which had arisen from mistaken identification of peaks from various points of observation. This table will make it easier to compare the accounts of all the previous journeys. It will also show that the only way to put order and clearness into the nomenclature was to give up the old names and start afresh with a difierent plan. As regards the altitude of the highest point as determined by the Duke at 16,815 feet, it would be idle now to gather together the opinions of preceding explorers which were not based upon any instrumental observation ; all the more so that only one of them, Stuhlmann, really had a near sight of the highest peaks, or at least of Alexandra Peak. The others all judged of the height of the peaks around the head of the Mobuku Valley, and never even saw the highest ones, or only from the far-off plains of the surromiding country. The Duke took for the first base of his calculations the meteorological station of Entebbe, whose height was already known (3,861 feet). Fort Portal was then connected with Entebbe by a series of observations carried out for two whole months at the two stations, and ffivinor as a result for Fort Portal an altitude of 1,165 feet above Entebbe, or 5,026 feet above the sea-level. Finally, Bujongolo was connected with Fort Portal by barometrical observations taken during a period of alx>ut a 217 Chapter Yll. The Nomenclature of Ruwenzori and the H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi, Mt. Luigi di Savoia. F. Stuhhnann. From Lungvve From the (Seniliki). Butagu Valley. Moebius Weismann or Ngemwimbi. J. E. S. Moore. From the From Eastern Plain. Bujongolo. f Edward and Sem- I per Peaks. I Weismann or ^ Ngemwimbi. Wollaston and Moore Peaks. J Ingoniwiinbi. Moebius. Kanjan- gogwe. f Savoia and Elena Peaks. Ml ^ I Alexandra and L Margherita Peaks, Semper or Kanjan- Semper or Kanjan- gungwe. Ingoimviuibi. Mt. Speke. Kangan- Mt. Emiu. Kraepelin. Mt. Gessi. Saddle Moun- tain (of Stanley). 21S Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. Errors in the Identification of the Peaks. Sir Hariy Johnston. D. W. Freshheld. A. F. Wollaston. Figurative Scheme. From the Mobuku Valley. From Butiti. From Bujongolo. From Bujongolo. South Peak. 1 Kiyanja. 1 1 > Kiyanja. Kiyanja. Kiyanja. Kiyanja )■ (Sempei- of Stuhhuann). Duwoni (from Bujongolo). Duwoni. Duwoni. 1 Duwoni (Semper of Stuhlmann). Duwoni (Weismann of Stuhlmann). Duwoni (from the lower valley). Saddle Mt. (?) 219 Chapter VII. iiKnitli, from the IGtli of June to the 12th of July. In this way the altitude of Bujongolo was established at 7,435 feet above Fort Portal, consequently 12,461 feet above the sea-level. The observations taken in the valleys and on the peaks with the niercmial Ijaronieter, or in places of secondary importance with the aneroid, were then referred to this base. A third base of less value, because the observations there were not taken during so long a period as at Bujongolo, is Ibanda in the Lower Mobuku Vallev. Onlv one of the measurements of altitude refers to this as its base point, namely, that of the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi, which was also taken with the boiling- point thermometer because the barometer was broken. To estimate the approximation to the actual truth, which may be attained by measuring heights merely by direct obser- vation of atmospheric pressure, by means of the boiling point of water (hypsometer), or by the aneroid barometer, it will suflSce to compare some results obtained by this simple method with the corresjDonding measurements as taken by the Duke and calculated with all the corrections furnished by a base station. Locality. Grauer, Teg art, and Maddox. Wollaston. H.R.H. Observations referred to a base station. Hypsometer. Aneroid. Hypsometer. Mercurial Bur. Fort Portal 5,200 — — 5,027 Bihunga ... 6,978 6,700 — 6,300 Kichuchu 9,869 9,600 — 9,833 Bujongolo 12,481 12,300-12,500 12,660 12,461 Camp Grauer 13,303 13,100 — 13,229 C4rauer Piock 14,956 19,030 — 14,813 Wollastori Peak ... — — 15,893 15,286 220 Formation and General Features of Euwenzori. By far the most interesting altinietric oljservatioiis are those which were taken by Lieutenant T. T. Behrens in 1903 durino- the Ano;lo-German frontier dehmitation. He then fixed trigonometrically the height of the two peaks which appeared to be the highest, as well as of four otlier points. It was, however, only after the publication of the Italian map that he was able to identify with certainty the position of these peaks, and hence to obtain all the data for an exact calculation of the altitudes on the basis of the angles taken. It is worth while to compare his results with those of H.R.H. Name of Peak. Height in Feet above tlie Level of the Sea. Lieut. T. T. Behrens. Trigonometric Value. H.R.H. Barometric Value. Difference, Trigonometric minus Barometric. Feet. Margherita 16,619 Alexandra 16,543 Edward 15,748 Vittorio Enianuele 15,846 Umberto 15,554 lolanda 15,258 Feet. 16,815 16,749 15,988 16,080 15,798 15,647 -196 -206 -240 -234 -244 -389 This is not the place to discuss the relative value of the two series of numbers. In Appendix B, Prof Omodei gives m extenso all the data of H.E.H.'s observations, and a critical expose of the methods adopted, and of the precautions taken in calculating the altitudes. Dr. A. lioccati has written a detailed account of the geology and mineralogy of Euwenzori, which is published in the volume 221 Chapter VII. containing tlie work done Ijy the ItaUan expedition in different branches of natural science.* Like Stuhhnann and Scott EUiot, he absohitely exchides all possibility of a volcanic origin for the chain. There is SENECIU AND HEIJCHKYSUM IX THE I 1'1'ER BUTAGU VALLEY. only one circumscribed point of the whole region explored, namely, the rock wall which forms the shelter of Kichuchu, where a formation of a volcanic nature exists, consisting of veins of basalt enclosed in a wall of gneiss. The inclination of strata is often very marked, reaching at times an angle of over G0°, and is, as a rule, turned eastward '"Appendix D contains a short resume by Dr. Koceati of the geology of the range. Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. and south-eastward on the eastern part of the chain, southward on the southern part, and south-westward on the western part so as to form a tectonic semi-elhpse. Resuming in its main outhnes the origin of the group of mountains and of the high peaks of its central portion, we may ascribe it to three causes, geotectonic, stratigraphic and litho logic, namely : — 1. The upheaval en hloc of a whole portion of the archaean rocks of Central Africa with a main slope for the rise from west to east. This rise is mainly in relation to the gigantic western fracture, with its relative vertical displacements, which originated the Semliki Valley, and also witli other fractures which have taken place to the east of the group, and wliich are marked by a series of recent volcanoes like those of the Province of the Toro District. 2. To a marked elevation — ellijDSoid or anticlinal, with general direction from north to south, and strata more or less considerably uplifted in the Ruwenzori group. 3. To the existence in the central region of a group of rocks which have resisted the physico-chemical action of external agents (amphibolite, diorite, diabasis, amphibolic gneiss), whereas the gneiss-rocks and mica-schists of the lower zone oppose far less resistance to such agents. To these main causes we may add the probal)le existence of internal fractures in the group. With a main direction from north to south, which would have contributed to the isolation of the several groups. An important geological feature of Ruwenzori is the vast development of the glaciers during the glacial period. The proofs of this are manifest, especially at Nakitawa. At one time the valleys of the Mahoma, of the Mobuku and of the Bujuku were filled ^^'ith large glaciers 223 Chapter YII. which met below Nakitawa and flowed down to a point beyond Bihunga. In this way also, on the western slope, tiie Savoia, Elena and Semper Glaciers must liave entered into the hollow formed between the g-roups Stanley, Baker and Luigi di Savoia, I,OI!KLlA DECIvKNI, SKNHCIO AND IKl'-l'.-ll KATHS. and probably joined llu' Kdward Glacier. It is not possible to state exactly down to wliat point the glaciers had reached in that direction, as the valleys to tlie west of the chain were not explored. 224 Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. To-day tlie iiiaciers are of small extent and diniiuishiiiir. This is proved at some points by the presence of moraines recently abandoned only a few hundred yards from the actual glacier snout, and from the freshness of the marks of polishing by ice on the rocks close to nearly all the glaciers. There are no glaciers of the first degree in the principal valleys, but only secondary glaciers in the upper part of the mountains and in the main gorges, not, however, in the nature of mere hanging glaciers, but true glaciers. Unlike our own Alps, there are no real basins, but merely a sort of glacier caps from which ice digitations flow down at divers points. In other words, we have on the higher groups of Ruwenzori glacier formations which remind us of the Scandinavian type and which have been called tropical glaciers. The Moore and Semper Glaciers flow further down than any — the former as low as 13,690 feet, and the latter as far as 14,000 feet. The largest glaciers are on the Stanley, Speke and Baker groups, and on the eastern sides of the Gessi group. The smaller ones are upon the Emin and the Luigi di Savoia groups, unless these latter have important glaciers to the north of the one and the south of the other where they were not explored by the expedition. A characteristic feature of the high ridges, and more especially of the snowy ridges around Alexandra and Margherita Peaks, are the enormous cornices, which from a distance appear to be inaccessible, and have a totally different appear- ance to those of the Alps and of the Caucasus. Rapid and frequent changes in temperature, falling from several degrees above to several degrees below the freezing jjoint, create an incessant alternation of frost and tha^^-, and give rise to the formation of an immense number of stalactites under these 225 Q Chapter VII. cornices, which are so intricate and so situated in relation to one another as to form a real scaffolding to support the ice- dome, which is usually of a spono-y consistency and quite light. I.oliKI.IA IX FLOWER. Thus on lluwenzori the cornices are far more solid and safe than in the Alps, and, in spite of their number and extent, there was no visible sign of a recent collapse at any point. L>L'G Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. The snow-limit may be calculated as between 14,700 and 14,800 feet ; in other words, at about the same level M'hich is reached by the lower extremity of most glaciers. Towards 14,000 feet the rain always turns into snow. There is not, perhaps, an al)Solute predominance of any one wind throughout the chain. It is, at least, quite certain that fog, snow, and hail are extremely frequent and common to all the winds, so that all forecasts are vain. Fine and bad weather may alternate several times in a few hours, and in so capricious a manner as not to appear subject to any law. Only in the earlv mornino- hours there seems to be a somewhat greater probability of a clear sky. The bad weather is frequently violent, and accompanied bv strong wind, lightning and thunder, even in the highest regions. Near Alexandra Peak and on Edward and Sella Peaks the rocks bear witness to the violence of these storms by the innumerable fulgurites with which thev are riddled. No conclusions as to the best season for visitins: Kuwenzori can be drawn from the experiences of the Italian expedition. During June bad weather certainly predominated. The longest dry spell was in the second week of Julv. After this period the expedition began to withdraw from the higher vallevs and peaks, to which the rains and fogs seem to be strictlv limited. Indeed, on their return to Fort Portal they learned from the resident missionaries that durino- those two months no rain o liad fallen there. The valleys of Ruwenzori are often divided into natural terraces produced Ijy the formation of layers of strata above the ridges of hard rock, which at an earlier period dammed up these valleys in places, thus creating lake basins which have subsequently silted up with alluvial deposit, of which tlie 227 g 2 Chapter \U. present marshy levels are the result. Lake Biijiiku is a survival of one of these ancient basins. In the Mobuku and Biijuku Valleys towards 10,000 feet the damp and mild climate specially favours the development of SENECIO AND LOT.KMA ST^H1.:^[A^^•I. lycopodiuiu, mosses, and lichens which clothe the sides and bottoms of the valleys, and cover the trunks of the living trees or of those tliat have fallen from old age. At this height t]ut valleys are clad with a dense forest of heaths and 228 IN THE SENECIO FOREST Formation and General Features of Ruwenzori. of bamboos, with brambles, orchids and ferns, in whose shade grow violets, ranunculi, geranium, epilobium, thistles, and umbelliferous plants. Towards 11,500 feet a certain nmnber of the aromatic plants, which had formed a large part of the underwood, cease, and among the trees only the heaths, lobelias, and senecios remain, while the ferns become prominent, and the lycopodium, mosses, and lichens develop) to an inordinate degree. This development reaches its maximum at about 12,500 feet, a little before the point where the heaths stop altogether, beyond which remain only senecios, lobelia, reeds, mosses, and lichens. Here the helichrysum, or everlasting flower, which had already been noticed at about 11,500 feet, forms dense thickets, which reach up to the glaciers together with the senecios, and is the last form of shrubby vegetation. Among the numerous specimens of helichrysum and senecio brought liome by the expedition, there were several new species. Mention should be made here of a fine and rare tree found at Bujongolo, belonging to the family Ericaceae, and the genus Philippia. On the peaks are seen mosses, lichens, a few rare graminaceae and a few dwarf phanerogams which remind one of the characteristic vegetation of our own Alps. At and above 16,000 feet the rocks are bare. The expedition had not proposed to itself the task of making special and minute researches regarding the fauna of the region. So far, however, as was possible, in spite of the rapidity of the marches and the unfavourable circumstances, as many animal specimens as possible were collected, and to these were added large collections made for the expedition by the Catholic missionaries. As they ascended the Mobuku Valley tlie fauna became less 229 Chapter VII. and less abundant, while above Bujongolo nothing- was found except leopards, rats, bats, a few crows, hawks, birds of the sparrow family, msects and wt)iiiis. Upon the peaks were found worms, neuroptera and diptera. The botanical and zoolog'ical collections offered abundant material, comprising many species which w^ere either new or interesting from other points of view, and w^hich have been amply described and illustrated in the volume of special studies upon Ruwenzori. We have now glanced cursorily at the principal results of the Italian expedition — results implying sustained effort, owing to the extreme shortness of their sojourn in the mountains. Having thus briefly reviewed the chief features of the region, we may once more take u}) our narrative. '230 CHAPTER VIII. Exploration of Mt. Speke and Mt. Emin. The Descent into the Bujuku Valley — Stuhlmann's Col — Western Slopes of -Mt. Speke— Ascent of Vittorio Emanuele Peak — Storm and Electrical Phenomena upon the Peak — Two Days' Bad AVeather — Glacier Torrents of Ruwenzori — The Duke reascends A^ittorio Emaiuiele Peak — Crossing the AA'estern Valleys — Camp at the Foot of Alt. Emin — Ascent of Umherto Peak — Retui-n to Bujongolo — Three Days' Alarch through the Rain — Recapitulation of the work done. We left of!' the narrative at the point when the expedition had assembled in Camp IV, above Scott Elliot Col, near the Elena Glacier of Mt. Stanley, on the 21st of Jmie. On the following morning, June 22nd, the Duke once more prepared to leave his companions and jjursue the exploration of the chain, directing his steps towards the northern groups. Some days before, from the summit of Alexandra Peak, he had been able to ascertain that the most convenient and the shortest route to Mt Speke and Mt. Emin lay along their western slopes, which could be easily reached by crossing the Upper Bujuku Valley and Stuhlmaiui's Col, 231 Chapter YIII. (AMI' IV, CLOSE TO THE ELENA GLACIEK which hes hetween Mt. Speke and Mt. Stanley. The Duke was accompanied by the guides Joseph and Laurent Petigax, Olher and five Bakonjo porters. The northern wall of the Scott Elliot Col, as has already been stated, forms a })recipice overhanging Lake Bujuku. After a short descent between great blocks of rock covered with the usual mosses and lichens, the party entered a narrow gorge and then a nearly perpendicular gully full of detritus. The loaded natives, little used to the precautions which are necessary under these circumstances, trod carelessly upon the stones and set tliem rolling, to the serious risk of those who were ahead. It was necessary to descend slowly, with great caution, and quite close together. The natives had by this time acquired somewhat greater 232 Exploration of Mt. Speke and ]\It. Emin. confidence in their leaders, and followed them \\ith a better will. The guides helped them at all the difficult points and the caravan was once more in good spirits. At the foot of this gully they again entered the senecio forest, through which they descended by a gentler slope obliquely towards the bottom of the valley, where they found a treeless, marshy tract (12,904 feet). This they reached after two and a-half hours' march, crossing the torrent above Lake Bujuku. The usual obstinate fog enveloped the wliole valley. From this point they began to ascend by a moderate slope directly towards the southern face of Mt. Speke. About 300 feet higher up, they came across a neve formed by avalanches at the foot of the rock wall, which was covered above by a glacier broken up into seracs, and, as it were, suspended over the valley. Skirting round the neve to the left they continued to ascend, directing their steps to a point where the south-west ridge of Mt. Speke joins Stuhlmann's •Col to the north of a rocky spur clearly visible in the middle of the col. The last bit of way at the foot of the perpendicular cliff, overhung by the terminal seracs of the glacier, is exposed to the danger of stones falling from above. The ascent is •easy but fatiguing on account of the slippery rocks covered with moss. By the time they reached the watershed, a fine warm sun bad dissipated the fog, and they stopped for a while to enjoy the fine view over the upper amphitheatre of the Bujuku "VaUey. It is completely surrounded by precipitous clifts. Only under Margherita and Alexandra Peaks the gentler slope allows the glacier to descend to a lower level, but all the rest of the circle of glaciers stops short at the brow of the clifts. Now and then the roar ot the avalanches of seracs may be 233 Chapter VIII. lieard as tliev crash down into the valley. The rocky buttresses of Elena and Savoia Peaks, and the jjrecipitous cliffs of the north face of Mount Baker, overtopped towards the east by Moore and Wollaston Peaks, are especially grand. After skirting the foot of the south-west ridge of Mt. Speke, thev pursued tlieir way nearly on a level under the western cliff, keeping high and not far from the glacier. This glacier has Avithdrawn recently, leaving a long fringe of rocks and moraine detritus, under which a few senecios and groups of helichrvsum have taken root. A little further on, the tent was pitched on a narrow strip of land between two oval lakes and the margin of the Speke Glacier. This is Camp V, at a height of 14,682 feet above the sea-level, immediately under Yittorio Emanuele Peak. There were only a few senecios at this })oint, and the natives sought for shelter lower down, ^A^iere there was abundance of wood. The sky was clear overhead, but round the peaks and in the valleys lingered fogs, which liid the greater jDart of the landscape. A little further and lower down was a third lake, somewhat larger than tlie two which were near the camp. On the next day, first climbing the rocks and then up the glacier, following an easy western ridge, without once using the rope, in a little more tlian an hour they reached tlie smnmit of Vittorio Emanuele Peak, 1(3,080 feet above the sea-level. It was 6.30 in the morning and they were already surrounded by dense fog. They remained nearly eight hours on the summit in vain expectation of an opening in the fog, which never came. There was a light, variable wind, and every now and then a sno^^•fall, changing occasionally into brief and violent showers of hail. At one time they were enveloped in a cloud so charged witli 234 SEXI-XIO FOREST TO THE WEST OF FRESHFIELD COL S A vol A PEAK IN THE DISTANCE Exploration of Mt. Speke and ^It. Emin. electricity that tiny discharges Ijegaii to crackle upon tlieir ice-axes, their tripod, and their barometer. Even their hair MT. SPEKE SEEN FROM THE SEXECIO FOREST AT THE FOOT OF SCOTT Elliot's col. crackled upon then^ heads. It was a disagreeable situation, and by no means without danger. To kill time, they built a big stone man on a point of* rock to the north-west, a little below the snow peak. In the 235 Chapter VIII. ^afternoon they went down to the camp, as the weather was getting worse. The day luid l)een completely wasted as far as exploring work was concerned. The 24th and the 25th of June were spent in a dense fog, with alternations of rain, snow, and hail. The guides set out on a short excursion to endeavour to find tlie way to Mt. Emin across the valleys which run down to the north-west of Mt. Speke. On the 25th, H.R.H. attempted to proceed, but was very soon forced to return, the fog being so dense that it seemed like night. During these two days of obligatory rest, the Duke was able to observe in the little torrents which flow down from the Speke Glacier the periodic oscillations of volume, ranging from a minimum in the morning to a maximum in the evening, which are characteristic of torrents produced by the melting of ice. There would be no reason to comment upon this fact were it not that Mr. Freshfield was led, from observation of the small dimensions of the Mobuku torrent where it springs from the glacier, and from the limpidity of its waters, to conclude that it rather originated from a spring under the glacier than from actual melting of the ice. This view fits in with Mr. Freshfield's general theory that tropical glaciers are consumed chiefly by evaporation, and in a minor degree only by melting. Whatever may be the con- ditions in the Himalayas, there can be no doubt that in this respect tlie glaciers of Ruwenzori resemble tliose of our o^^'n Alps, and tliat they all give rise to torrents flowing from their extreme end with all the characteristic features of glacier torrents. As a matter of fact, the climate of Buwenzori is very little tropical in its nature, and it would seem that a condition of atmosjjhere so satm-ated witli moisture as to render the L';3G Exploration of* Mt. Speke and Mt. Eniin. mists nearly permanent could luirdly cause so rapid an evapora- tion as alone to account for the very considerable waste of the glaciers. The limpidity of the waters of torrents which spring from certain glaciers of Ruwenzori may, in all probability,, be ascribed to the almost complete immobility of the glaciers themselves, owing to which they grind no detritus from the rocks that form their beds. As was mentioned in the preceding chapter, these glaciers are in the form of ice-caps on the summits and ridges rather than of true streams of ice flowing from neves, as is the case in our own Alps. Fully to estimate, however, the importance of the Ruwenzori chain in feeding the Nile, we must take into account not so much the glaciers as the entire mountain range, whose highest peaks soar up into the colder strata of the air, and gather to themselves and precipitate in rain and snow the mass of vapours drawn up from the vast plains below, while the network of valleys form great basins to collect the water thus gathered. The reader will remember that on the western and southern slopes alone Stanley counted sixty-two torrents flowing from the mountains into the Semliki River and into Lake Albert Edward. On the evening of the 25th of Jinie the scene changed rapidly. The w^hole sky cleared up, and a marvellous simset kindled the whole valley and the far-ofi* forest of the Congo into flaming red. The following night was bitterly cold. On the morning of the 26th, the Duke and the guides were on their way by four o'clock. The frost was hard and all the water frozen, even the little lake was nearly completely covered with ice. The hard snow gave a good foothold upon the glacier. By a (piarter past five they were once more on the summit of Vittorio 237 Chapter VII T. Emaniiele Peak. A cold wind was l)lo\ving from the north- west. In the absohitely clear and transparent air the outlines of the peaks stood out distinctly upon the sky. The weather was capital for topographical work. Vittorio Eiuiiiiiiele Peak. Johnston Peak. MT. .SPElvE FROM Till'. STAM.KY l'l..VTEAl'. Vittorio Emanuele Peak is situated nearly in the centre of the vast circle upon which are distributed the mountains and glaciers of Iluwenzori, and is without doubt the best point of observation of the whole range. Northward from the peak runs the long ice ridge wliich presently dips to the Cavalli Pass, and thence rises again to the Umberto Peak of Mt. Emin. A deep gorge between precipitous cliffs, running from north to south, divides Mt. Emin from Mt. Gessi. The two peaks of Mt. Gessi, lolanda and Bottego are clearly visible at the 23.S Exploration of Mt. Speke and ^It. Eniin. extreme end of the terminal snow ridge. To the south-west rises the mighty mass of Mt. Stanley with its five peaks, of which the Alexandra Peak is scarcely visible to the left and to the back of Margherita Peak ; while on the great ice plain form- ing the Stanley plateau they were able to discern, like little black specks, the caravan of Vittorio Sella, on his way up to the Alexandra Peak that morning. The ring of glaciers ends to the east with the Moore Peak of Mt. Baker, where they saw the stone man which Vittorio Sella had set up there a few days before. Through the opening formed by the Scott Elliot Pass, as if through a window, they saw at a distance the western extremity of Mt. Luigi di Savoia. Between this mountain and the pass the eye follows the valley down to the lakes to the west of Mt. Baker. Here in the pale light of the dawn they made out a fire. This was the camp of the native porters who were bringing supplies. Thus, at that early hour, from the summit of Mt. SjDeke, the Duke saw the whole carefully organized work of his expedition proceeding before his eyes. A little after seven o'clock they were back at the tent, and spent the rest of the day in drying in the sun their equipment, which was soaked with the rain of the previous days. Towards evening a few more Bakonjo arrived with pro- visions. The night was absolutely clear and starry, and the sun rose in a perfectly clear sky. The Duke started ahead with a guide and proceeded northward across the interval between the lakes and the foot of the cliff, a rocky ledge upon which, about 600 feet further up, the glacier comes to an end in a cascade of seracs. They proceeded by leaping from one to 239 Chapter VIII. another of the blocks heaped at the foot of tlie chif. The porters found an easier way a httle further down through the senecios and heUchrysums between the second and third lakelets. Thus skirting along the glacier they presently reached the top of tlie lofty buttress, which runs westward from Mt. Speke, dividing the two valleys which are to the west of the Stuhlmann and Cavalli Passes. A spur of rock rises from the very ridge, forming a helvedere 14,744 feet high, from which they were able to observe the way which lay before them. Unfortunately the weather was already changing, and detached drifts of mist, which had been gathering here and there, now began rapidly to collect and melt into one another. They saw quite clearly from this point a conical rocky peak rising from one of the western buttresses of Mt. Emin — a sort of " little Matterhorn," which may possibly have been one of the " twin cones " towards which Stairs was steering on his expedition to the north-west of the chain. To reach the foot of Mt. Emin it was necessary to cross the head of the great valley which runs down to the west of the Cavalli Pass and cross another and smaller spur which runs into this valley from Mt. Speke. Hence they continued skirting the mountains at the foot of the Grant Glacier, which seems to have shrunk even more than the others. On reaching the top of this spur, they proceeded to descend, skirting the slope towards the Cavalli Pass, taking advantage of a provi- dential ledge which squeezed a narrow way between smooth steep slabs of rock which would otherwise have been impassable. This ledge was covered with a dense thicket of helichrysum, through which the guides cut a path. The valley was crossed 240 Exploration of ]\It. Speke and ]\It. Emin. near the top, just under the coh and (amp VI was establislied at a distance of about half a mile below the Umberto Glacier upon a little rocky terrace on the top of a ])recipice which reached to tlie bottom of the valley. About 500 feet lower down, this valley forms a sort of amphitheatre sm i-oimdHd bv precipitous cliifs, excepting in tlie centre Tvhere a gentler slope leads to the Cavalli Pass. To the west it narrows Uinlierto Peak. Kraepelin Peak. MT. E^nX SEEN' FROM THE lOL.VXD.V (iLAClKK. (Xegatixe tdketi lij ll.U.H.) into a gorge through which flows the torrent AA-hicii springs from the southern glaciers of Mt. Emin. The day's marcli had Vjeen lono- and all were tired. On the mornini'- (»f the 28th of June there was again a prospect of bad weather. They left with a cloudy sky and proceeded to ascend a rocky ridge which runs down from 241 K Chapter VI 11. Uniberto Peak between tlie Kiiiiii and Uniberto Glaciers. On reacliine; the riuht niaioin i»t' the latter tliev left their tent there some 600 feet above the sixth camp and proceeded to ascend over the snow wliich covered the i;lacier. At the to}) they turned westward to\\ar(ls a rocky ridge, V)y means of which they readied Umberto Peak. Here they remained for five honrs, })nt were scarcely able to catch a glimpse of a peak here and there among the mists. They built a big- stone man upon tlie wide rocky simimit. A gieat ridge of broken and decomj^osing rock runs north - wai-d towards Kraepelin Peak, which is lower and likewise rocky. Mt. Gessi, on the other side of the narrow gorge, between precipitous cliffs, has the appearance of a vast col \\ith two peaks rather slightly accentuated at the northern and southern extremities of the long; snowy ridffe. It was late when thev returned to tlie tent near the glacier. The Duke would have liked to return upon Umberto Peak on the following day to take angles, but the weather was tlireatening from the dawn. They had supplies for one day only. At such a distance from Bujongolo, which was their base, and with so many passes to cross on the ^^'ay, it was not easy to obtain provisions regularly. It was therefore necessary to retui'ii. In half an hour they reached Camp YI, under the Cavalli Pass, ascended to the belvedere, in a snowstorm, and in the early liouis of the afternoon set up their tent once more at the foot of Vittorio Kmanuele Peak. On the following day, a lonir march, almost entirelv in tlie rain, brouuht them over the Stulihiiann Pass, tlie head of the Bujuku Vallev. and the Scott P^lliot Pass. They once more set up their tents at CJam]) 11, on the shore of the little lake at the foot of the western slope of Mt. Baker. Jiations had been left ready at 242 Exploration of Mt. Speke and Mt. Eniiii. prearranged points ii of tlie ridj^v. It was extremely difficult to find the wav in tlie mist. Numerous aiguilles of rock o))liired them to cross a steep neve to the south of the ridge and then to return to the north side under the sunnnit, which they reached hv a rockv gully. The Sella Peak, 15,286 feet, is rockv and dotted with numerous fulo-nrites. The edges of tlie slahs are here and there perforated to a de})th of some inches and look as if thev were worm-eaten. Thev THE SOITII HllXiE OF HUWAr^U I'KAK AM» IIIK CAAM' ei-OSE To EKEsiiriKi.n's I'Ass. spent seveial hours ujxm the summit without the chance of takiui"- a sinirle i)hotoi'raph. Thev were scarcelv able, durini:' a Further Ascents and Work at Bujongolo. momeutarv cleariiiu,' of tlic mist, to distiiimiisli tlic Weisinaiiii Peak to the sontli-west at the end of a loiii:' snowy ridy'e. On tlieir return they descended straight to the bottom of the valley, which was full of watery and nniddy spots, with the usual veo-etation of senecio, and reached the tent after uio-htfall with hue niooidiirht. Vittorio Sella finally rejoined the rest of the expedition at Bujongolo on the 5th of July, after a whole week spent upon the Freshfield Pass in fruitless expeditions up the ridges, and hours and hours of waiting beside his camera in the storms. For all his tenacity and energy he had not succeeded in getting a complete panorama from the Edward Peak as he had proposed to do. The party at Bujongolo had not meantime remained idle. Commander Cagni had vainly attempted to take magnetic observations, but was prevented by the abundance of minerals containing iron in the rocks around Bujongolo. This influence was so considerable that it could be felt even when the inclinometer was placed at a height of some yards above the earth upon a wooden frame-work constructed for the purpose. The p-reatest diflicultv, however, was in tindino- a stretch of n-round level enouiih and wide enouo-h to allow of measuriiii;- a base line whose extremities were to l)e connected witii two of the peaks forming a part of the network of angles measured by the Duke from the different mountains wliieli he ascended. There was a level })lace some distance back, above the cliff; at tlie foot of which stood the Camp of Bujongolo. But from this level space they could only see the E(b\ard and Cafrni Peaks w^hich had not been connected with the others. 253 Chapter IX. Another place higher up on the path leading to the Freshtield Pass, which the rains and the going to and fro of the porters had now reduced to the condition of a ditch full of mud, offered no hetter opportunities. The Duke and Cagni hecame convinced of this after spending a M'hole day there in tlie rain. They accordingly planned to prepare a base line on the first -mentioned level behind Bujongolo. The Duke was then to re-ascend the Edward Peak, while Cagni was to climb the mountain which bears his name, and from these two they were to measure the angles of the other peaks. Everything now depended upon the good luck of getting a few hours of clear weather upon these two summits. Meantime, on the 2nd of July, the Duke made a recognizance in the vallev which runs between Mts. Baker and Cagni and comes out opposite Bujongolo. This valley he. foimd t<» be l)arred l)y great steep slabs of rock, extremely slippery and certainly im^Jassable for the native porters. The weather continued bad. Mt. Baker was completely covered witli fresh snow. In the valley the rain liad turned the whole groinid into one mass of deep mud. On the 4th of July, between the showers, they succeeded, by taking advantage of every break in the fog, in tracing the base line upon the level tract above the camp, which consisted of a carpet of moss upon a muddy soil, dotted witli senecios dripping with rain. In order to mount the tlieodolite at the extremities of the base line, they were obliged to l)iiil(l real foundations, sinking tree trunks into the mud more than six feet down to serve as piles. Hardly bail they taken these preparatorv measures ))efore the weather began to improve. On the 5th of July, on a 251 Further Ascents and Work at lUijongolo. perfectly clear and very cold luorning, the Dake again wput up to the Freshfield Pass. Roccati, who had accompanied him so far, here re-descended to Bujongolo with Sella, while H.R.H. proceeded directly to the Edward Peak, following the southern crest along which Sella had made the ascent three days before. The mists returned before lie reached the sunnnit. It was onlv late in the afternoon that he was able to take a few ano-les in a brief moment of clear sky. The Duke returned to the camp at nightfall. (Jn the 6th of Julv the weather was again coni])letely overcast and no work was possible, but on the 7th he returned earlv in the morning to the summit and was able to complete all the measurements. On the following morning he ascended the Stairs Peak ot Mt. Luigi di Savoia before returning to Bujongolo. Commander Cagni in the meantime had left Bujongolo on the 6tb with Joseph Petigax, Brocherel and a few natives to ascend the rocky peak to the north of the camp, which was to be connected on one hand with one extremity of tlie base line, and on the other with the net of angles of the different peaks. The Cagni Peak, as may be seen upon the map, rises at the southern extremity of a buttress which runs between Mt. Baker and the Soutli Portal Peak, flanked by two little valleys containing small lakes and tributary streams of the Mobuku. Wishuig to avoid the slabs of rock which had prevented the Duke in his recognizance of the 2nd of July from entering the valley to the west of the peak, and likewise to avoid crossing the Mobuku Valley below Bujongolo in the deep mire and through the dense heath forest, Cagni had decided to go 255 Chapter IX. \i}) the slopes of Ml. Baker and tlieiice to traverse under Wollastou and Moore Peaks, towards the Cagni Peak. Accordhii^lv the party turned its steps first towards Grauer s Camp near to tlie Moore Glacier, and thence skirted the eastern slopes of Mt. Baker, intendiiii;- to reach the col to tile east <>f tlie Moore Peak. But their eternal enemy tlie foi;- ohlin"ed them to stop on the steep slope in the snow, stones and mud. On the following" day it hecame plain that it was impossible to pursue this route. It was necessary to go down to the narrow gorge between Wollaston Peak and Mt. Cagni. This A\as no easy task, and in more places than one they were obliged to let down tlie loads l)y a rope, and even to let down the porters as if thev were parcels. Once at the foot of the south-west side of the Cagni Peak, which was cpiite perpendicular to the very bottom of the little valley, they ascended this latter as far as its head, through a dense wood of heath, and set up their tents innnediately under the col. From this point, on Julv 8th, they followed the spur which bears the Cagni Peak at its end along its whole length from north to south, keeping upon its western slope. In this way thev reached the terminal cone, where thev left their ecpiipment, and after a sliort chmb in the mist, about 3.30 p.m. thev reached a small platform, which thev took for the summit. The camp theodolite was at once set up uj)on its trijiod. Suddeiilv through the mist tlu^v perceived to the south the real peak, which the refraction of the mist caused them to see as if at a very great height over their heads. The theodolite was innnediately taken down, they descended from the little point which they had reached, and after a real Al})ine climl) up a very narrow ridge over a ditficult \)[toi' arete, about 1'2 feet high with 25G MOUNT CAGNl Further Ascents and Work at Buionm)lo. insufficient liaudliolds, and skirting round rocky gendarmes on their smooth, steep sides, they reached the real summit about six in the evening. The mist had entirely disappeared, but niglitfall was very near. Commander Cagni liad scarcely time to take observations of all the peaks with the compass. They came down in tlie dark. On the following morning by sunrise, the weather being perfectly clear, Cagni was once more on the summit, and was able to take measurements of all the angles with the theodolite and with the compass. They set up a stone man, and by eight o'clock they were preparing to return when the first mists began to rise. They came back by the same way, along the spur to the north of the peak and tlien down into the little valley to the west of it, which they now descended to the point where it opens into the Mobuku Valley. Here the mist, which had become dense, was added to all the other difficulties of crossing the tangled forest, which was very similar to the one above Kichuchu. They reached Bujongolo the same evening. Sella was there alone, waiting for Cagni's Alpine tent to set forth upon a new photographic expedition. The Duke had gone up to Camp I upon Mt. Baker that very day. From this point on the following day, July 10th, through a gully to the east and then along the south ridge, he reached the Wollaston Peak, 15,286 feet, which liad not as yet been ascended by any member of the expedition. The rocks were covered with ice. The weather was clear, and lie was able to take observations for two whole hours. Next, following the high ridge, he traversed to the Moore Peak, whence he came down along the ridge which had already been climbed by Vittorio Sella, to the Grauer Col, and so back to Bujongolo. 257 s Chapter IX. Yittorio Sella had set forth in the morning with Botta and a few natives, and had retm-ned to the Freshfield Pass. He did not return again to Bujongolo. On the 11th of July he was again upon the Edward Peak at sunrise, and was at last enabled to take the complete panorama of the chain for which he had once waited a whole week in vain on the Freshfield Pass. On the way back he paid a visit to the little knob some- what lower down, which had been climbed twice by Wollaston, whose card he now found with the following inscriptions : "A. F. R Wollaston, R B. Woosnam, 17th February, 1906. Height by aneroid 16,050 feet." "A. F. R. Wollaston (Alpine Club), R. B. Woosnam, D. Carruthers of the British Museum Expedition to Ruwenzori. Five hours from Bujongolo. Water boil. 183'6 ; temp, of air 397 ; aneroid 16,150 feet, 3rd April, 1906." On the 12th of July, the weather remaining fair, Sella again ascended the Stairs Peak, where he took some good photograj)hs. In the meantime Commander Cao^ni had done two davs' work in finishing the mensuration of the base line and connecting it with Edward and Cagni Peaks, and was able to complete an occultation, fixing the longitude and tlie latitude of one of its extremities. In order to follow the intense activity of all the different members of the expedition occupied in such various ways and yet directed to one common aim, our story has necessarily become little more than a simple list of facts and of dates. After the return of the expedition to Bujongolo, the leopard had resumed his daring visits to the camp, killing sheep and coming close to the fires among the native porters to steal the meat. Everyone was too busy to heed him. But the cook, Igini, with Bulli, planned an ambush with two rifles 258 Further Ascents and Work at Bujongolo. and a piece of meat. One night the splendid animal fell into this trap and was killed on the spot with two l)alls tlu'ougli its skull. On the 12th of Jnly, tlie Prince was ahle to consider the work of the expedition as ended. On the 7th, Roccati, who had again returned to the Mohuku Glacier to put marks of red paint on the rocks at the limit where the ice stopped, and who had finished arranging all his collections, had already left Bujongolo with Cavalli and with a party of Bakonjo porters carrying a portion of the equipment, hound for Ibanda, the lowest camp iu the Mobuku Valley. One mountain alone remained unclimbed, namely, Mt. Gessi, and the Duke was not in a mood to leave it unattempted, all the more so as this ascent would be connected with an exploration of the Bujuku Valley as yet absolutely unknown and worth traversing in its whole length. A party of Bakonjo had started from the point where the Bujuku Valley opens into the Mobuku Valley opposite Nakitawa, and had already cut a rough track as far as the head of the Valley. The plan was now for the Duke to descend the Bujuku Valley with Sella, while Cagni was to direct the transport of all the portion of the equipment which was still at Bujongolo down the Mobuku Valley, and was then to meet Cavalli and Iloccati at Ibanda and there wait for the Duke. Thus Ibanda became the general rendezvous for the whole expedition. 259 s - CHAPTER X. Exploration of the Bujuku Valley and of Mt. Gessi. Eeturn of the Expedition. Departure from Bujongolo — The Camp of Ibanda — Visit to the Glacier Lake of the Mahoma Valley — H.R.H. leaves Bujongolo — Lake Bujuku — Descent of the Bujuku Valley — The Migusi Valley — Ascents of the Peaks of Mount Gessi — The Lower Bujuku Valley — The Expedition meets at Ibanda — Resume of the Mountaineering Work of the Expedition — Return to Fort Portal — The Volcanic Region of Toro — Some Shooting — Arrival at Entebbe — The Ripon Falls — Departure from Africa — Sir Henry Stanley's wish realized. On the Lst of July, immediately after the Duke returned to Bujon- golo from Mt. Emin, preparations had been commenced for leaving the mountains definitely, and had been carried on durinir the intervals left free bv the vai'ied work of the camp. In this way were gradually prepared the loads containing the scientific collections, the instru- ments, and all those objects wliich were no longer necessary. They had at their disposal some forty Bakonjo porters oidy, as it would have been difficult to liave provided supplies for a greater number so far from Ibanda. It was therefore necessary 260 ^^^^^^^M^' B#'HI ^■l V "^S ^^^^^^K^r^W ■■ l^ Bujukii Valley. — Return of the Expedition. to cany down the ec|iupnient in several trips. The first party of porters had left Bujongolo on the 4tli July with forty loads. On the 7th a second caravan went down, accompanied hy Roccati and by Oavalli, who had hastened his departure when he heard that there were porters ill in various camps of the valley, a report which proved to he without foimdation. A week later Cagni left Bujongolo with Laurent Petigax, Brocherel, Igini, and twenty-three natives ; the Duke had left for the Bujuku Valley on the previous day. Finally, on the 15th of July, the departure of Bulli with a last partv of thirtv Bakonjos left Bujongolo deserted. All were satisfied with the work done, and were in fine spirits at the prospect of returning home, and left without a reffret the wild rock which had offered them shelter durino- five weeks. They were glad to leave behind them so much mud and stones, the melancholy vegetation consumed by the mildews and lichens, the pallid light of the mists, the everlasting drip of the rain, the damp and the cold, and to get back to the sun and the dry heat of the tropical plains, the life and the colour, the cries of birds, the bright flowers and the gay crowd of thoughtless and noisy Bagandas. The Mobuku River, swollen by more than fifteen days of continuous rains, was no longer recoofnizable. It formed magnificent cascades from one of the valley terraces to another. At every step on their way down, the parties met porters on their way up to Bujongolo to fetch loads. A month before, when they first came up from the plain, the valley had struck them as almost without sound of animal life, but now, after weeks spent in the silence of the mountains where at the utmost an occasional crow hovered overhead, they were impressed by every buzzing of insects or fluttering 261 Chapter X. of wino;s. Biliunga had become an important centre. It was the place where the Bakonjo porters passed on the loads to the Bao-anda of tlie plain who had again been concentrated at Ibanda. Ibanda had now become a big permanent camp. The members of the expedition, as they arrived from Bnjongolo, were received bv the nei2:hbourinof chieftains with the usual ceremony and offering of gifts. The camp had become the natural meeting place foi- all the inhabitants of the surrounding Mi' i [iA;A^ .A-^tA^ v^A.A.. ■ti.v. m^^. ISflp-*^ tr 1 ^HH^H^^«*^^' Wttt^^^^^^L w' PORTERS IN CAMP, AT H^ANDA. villages. Women and old men were busy rooting out weeds and preparing the ground to construct new Inits near the tents. From morninp; till nipflit there was a racket and ])ustle ; tliey all crowded around tlic fires, around the kitchens, around the barbers, while the native soldiers wandered hither and thither attempting to keep a little order in the confusion. The river was generally full of natives, batliing and disporting tliemselves in the water with great enjoyment. 2G2 Bujuku Valley. — Return of the Exj)edition. Dr. Cavalli found plenty of occupation, and was })usy for several hours every day with the sick people who came from far and near, supported or carried with loving care by their relations or friends. While undergoing trifling operations they would scream and weep, and immediately after laugh like children. Commander Caofni undertook a series of mao-netic observa- tions. Dr. Roccati made o;eoloo;ical and mineraloo^ical excursions in the neio-hbourhood. One of these took him to the little lake above Nakitawa where the Mahoma Valley opens into the Mobuku Valley. This lakelet had been observed by Moore, Johnston, Dawe, etc. Mr. Freshfield calls it Lake Kobokora, but from all accounts it would seem that no one had yet actually reached it. To arrive thither from Nakitawa, Roccati had to pass through virgin forest without any track, while the Bakonjos cut the way with axes through bamboos, lianas and heaths. There were moraine ridges to cross, through an undergrowth so dense that in many places they actually walked upon the thickets, on an elastic cushion of branches and twigs several feet deep. Now and again, one of the Bakonjo guides would climb a tree to get his bearings. Near to a fallen trunk they found traces of an old camp fire, a bit of newspaper and a sardine tin, no doubtful sign of the passage of a preceding explorer, possibly Dr. Wollaston or some other member of the British Museum Expedition. From this point they reached the lakelet in one hour. It is plainly a glacial lake, oval in shape, and running from south-east to north-west, with steep shores and surrounded by a narrow strip of mud, beyond which the deep water begins at once. There was fog round about, and complete silence, with no sign of animal life. Dr. Roccati collected plants and zoological 263 Chapter X. specimens from tlu^ mud on the hanks. Laurent Petigax and Brocherel returned later to tlie lake and were able to confirm the observation that it has normally no emissaries. Wiiile the members of* the expedition were thus occupied at Ibauda, the Duke of the Abruzzi was completing the exploration of the mountains. He had left Bujongolo on the morning of the 13th of July with the guides Joseph Petigax, Oilier, a native soldier, a l)oy, and seventeen native porters including the guide, a tine old man of fifty years. At the Freshfield Pass he was joined by Sella and Botta, and they proceeded together as far as Camp III at the foot of the western slopes of Mt. Baker. The valley of the lakes, which they had so often traversed in rain and fog, now, on this fine clear day, seemed to offer an entirely new prospect. The sini, however, seems almost to strike a false note in the dense and melancholy forest of senecios. The helichrysums seem like skeleton flowers, and the scene is grim, sad, lifeless and brooded over by an oppressive silence. On the following day, after a clear sunrise, the air again grew dark with mists. They climbed to the Scott Elliot Pass by the well-kno^^■n way and set forth down along the gully towards the Bujuku Valley. Those who went ahead were in incessant danger of being hit by the stones which the numerous party of natives kept rolling down, in spite of all precautions. From the foot of the gnlly, in a very short space of time, after crossing the grotesque forest of senecio mingled with clumps of everlasting flowers, and interrupted at one point by a brief marshy tract covered witli reeds, they reached the shores of Lake Bujuku (12,855 feet), a splendid slieet of calm water upon wliich they saw a few duck. Tiie view of the peaks of Mt. Stanley and Mt. Baker towering al)ove them with their grim j)recipices was, beyond all comparison, l'G-4 LAKE BUJUKU AND MOUNT STANLEY Bujuku Valley. ^Return of the Expedition. grander than the mountain .scenery at the liead of the Mohnkn Yahey. They soon discovered, among the mosses and reeds on the shore of the lake, the track prepared for tliem by the Bakonjo natives across tlie gently sloping f)lain of the upper valley. This plain ends in a gorge formed by spurs which run down from the Moore Peak of Mt. Baker and the Johnston THE BU.irKU VALLEY. Peak of Mt. Speke. Here there is a short, steep barrier, similar in every respect to those which intersect the Mobuku Valley. They now had a sight of the first heaths (12,297 feet), mingled with a few lobelias, which were nearly all dead. Making their way down, now on tlie right hand anil now on the left of the torrent, they reached a second plain, after 265 Chapter X. which the valley again narrows into a gorge formed by the north- ward prolongation of the spin- on wliose southern extremity I'ises the Cagni Peak. This spur runs so far across the valley as almost to meet the lonu" and considerable buttress which stretches from Mt. Speke eastMard and forms so far the northern or left wall of the valley. Upon the ridge of this spur of Mt. Speke stands the extraordinary monolith of rock, with regular and architectural lines, which had been one of tlie first features noticed bv tlieni in the ascents of Mt. Baker, The way leads down tlie right side of the gorge, which is clothed at the bottom with a dense forest of heaths, which would have caused them to waste a good deal of time had a track not been already cut. They came out of tliis gorge upon a third plain of more ample dimensions, into wliich open several trilnitary valleys from the north. One of these runs up to tlie north-west behind tlie east spur of Mt. Speke,, and at its head forms the narrow gorge between Mt. Emin and Mt. Gessi. This is the Migusi Valley. Two more valleys, divided by a minor ridge, are traversed by the torrent Kurungu, which springs from a little lake fed by the lolanda Glacier of Mt. Gessi, and the Waigga which also flows from a lake at the foot of the North Portal. On reaching this plain, they encamped in a suitable place (11,503 feet), near a sheltering rock at the foot of a spur on the riglit side of the valley in a clearing of the forest all full of blossoming helichrysum. The spot was lovely, the slopes of the valley clad witli dense forest, while before them towered up the rocky peaks of the North Portal. This Camp, marked No. IX on the map, was their starting point for the ascent of Mt. Gessi, the last mountain still left unclimbed. 266 Biijuku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. On the morning of the 15th, the Duke, with two guides and a few native porters crossed the plain to the north, steering towards a depression on the ridge to the north of the valley which runs down from Mt. Speke. This depression he reached CAMP IX, BUJUKU VALLEY. by ascending up a small lateral valley skirting the side in order to avoid the dense brush. From the ridge they went down into the Migusi Valley and followed for some distance the tracks of a leopard, which had made its way through the thickets. 267 Chapter X. The Mio'usi Valley is also foriiied of a series of successive terraces. They ascended first one rise and then another, and finally reached a slightly inclined plain leading to the head of the valley where the narrow gorge between Mts. Emin and Gessi begins. They skirted the plain and ascended the right slope of the valley to a point not far from the end of the lolanda Glacier. All of the Bakonjo were marching remarkably well. Tlie hardest work was for the guides, who had to cut a path through the dense thickets of brush. Camp X (13,GG8 feet) was set up close to the ancient moraine, only a few^ hundred yards from the present face of the glacier, ^\-llich ends in broken seracs on the brow of a cliff. The senecios and helichrysums climl) up a little higher than the point wliere the camp was fixed. The view from this higli level over the great amphitheatre of moimtains is one of the finest panoramas of the whole Ruwenzori range. On the mornino; of the 1 6th there was hard frost all around the camp. The start was made before daybreak. First they ascended a gully overhung by the terminal seracs of the lolanda Glacier. Then they crossed the rocks to the right of the gully and reached the snow% and then the south-east ridge of the mountain. At 6.30 a.m., the Duke set foot upon the rocky sunnnit of the lolanda Peak (15,647 feet). 1 he rope had not been used in the ascent. Oilier began at once to build a monumental stone man. The weather liad l)een threatening when they set forth, l)ut had now become quite clear, and the view of the mountains was complete in every detail, so that the Duke was able to make one more photographic panorama of the entire range. In this way the whole chain was photographed in panoramas taken from 2GS PANORAMA TAKEN FROM JOLAXDA PliAK. MOUNT GESSI 3 Bujuku Vcillev. — Return of the Ex])edition. either extremity of the irregular semi-circle wliicli forms its main contour, i.e., from Stairs Peak of Mt. Luigi di Savoia, and from the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi. In addition to these w^e have a panorama taken from the Edward Peak,* and another from Grauer's Kock. Before them, at a short distance, stood the jagged rock ridge of Mt. Emin. To the south of Mt. Emin came Mt. Speke with the great Vittorio Emanuele MT. GESSI FROM THE EDWARD PEAK OF ISIT. ]!AKER. Glacier, which is better seen from Mt. Gessi than from any- other point. Behind this glacier towers the terminal ridge of Margherita Peak, showing its ample north-west shoulder. Further south the whole of Mt. Baker is visible, witli its wild precipice descending straight to the Bujuku Valley. To * Not reproduced in this work. 269 Chapter X. the east of Mt. Baker, the Cagui Peak is visible behind a whole series of spurs, Mt. Gessi joins tlie North Portal to the south-east by a lono- ridge. To all appearances the watershed ridge proceeds from the North Portal alono; a series of ridp-es in a north- easterly direction, so that the water whicli collects on the eastern slopes of Mt. Gessi would flow ultimately into the Semliki Valley. The Duke stopped a long time on the summit, so as to enjoy a last view of this splendid display of mountains and glaciers, which had no longer any secrets. Next, following the snow ridge, he ascended Bottego Peak, which is 164 feet below lolanda Peak, in half an hour. The panorama is much the same. A little lake was visil)le in a narrow valley which runs down to the nortli of tlie Cavalli Pass between Mt. Gessi and Mt. Emin. From the north-east and north sides of Mt. Emin three little glaciers flow down. The whole west side of Mt. Gessi is taken up by a glacier, while the east side is naked rock. They returned by the same route, exce})t that on reaching the guUv they kept along its side instead of following the bottom, in order to avoid tlie danger of avalanches from the seracs of lolanda Glacier. Before midday they once more reached the tent which tliey liad left in the morning. After a brief halt they set forth again, and came rapidly down to Camp IX in the Bujuku Valley. During the whole excursion the strange monolith upon the spur which divided the Bujuku Valley from the Migusi Valley had always l)een in sigiit. Sella was so attracted by its strange appearance that he liad given up accompanying the Prince up Mt. Gessi on purpose to examine it more closely. 270 THE BUJUKU TORRENT. O Bujukii Valley. — Eeturn of the Expedition. He set out with Botta on the moriiiiig- of tlie iotij, and coming back to the second terrace of the valley proceeded to ascend the spur to the north, among giant heaths and sin-ubs of everlasting flower, over extremely broken ground, skirting (ilAXT ritKK IX TIIK I.oWEK BlMFKr WM.I.KV. huge blocks, climbing upon fallen tree trunks covered witli moss and concealing deep holes. The fog surrounded tliem before they liud reached a point sufHciently higli to get a. clear view of tlic moiKtlitli. 273 T Chapter X. On the following day they were ahle to approach much nearer. Here a disappointment awaited Sella, for the monolith proved to be a very commonplace pinnacle of rock which had received from its isolated position on a ridge an appearance of being much more grand than was actually the case. He came back to Camp IX Ijy night, a few hours later than the Duke. On the 17th tliey proceeded to descend the valley under a clouded sky but without rain or fog. They crossed the IBANDA. terrace which forms the meeting point of the Bujuku, Migusi ;and Kurungu Valleys. This is probably an ancient lake bottom, and is now completely covered with reeds. They skirted its left slope on uneven ground scattered with little grassy hillocks. They now reached the third rise followed by a long gorge running l)etween the two South Portals. Biijuku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. Here the valley heiids slightly southward and the descent becomes steeper. They followed the left side of tiie river, which falls in rapids and noisy cataracts. A little below the plain the senecios come to an end, but the lobelias continue (Stuhlmanni and Deckenni). After crossing the Manureggio, which is a tributary of the Bujuku and flows into it from the left, they entered a region of BAGAXDA VILLAGE. giant grass which grows like a bed of reeds between the heaths, and covers on every side the steep declivities dotted with huge, boulders and intersected by a mass of little irregular gorges. The natives had made a path by simply trampling down the long thick stalks, which form an elastic surface where you slip, sink in, and stumble at every step. Camp XI (9,547 feet) was placed below the gorge of the Portals. They now found themselves once more in the true !70 T 2 Chapter X. forest among huge trees, tine podocarpus, entwined with hanas and bamboo thickets. There were no more senecio nor lobeha. Troops of monkeys disported themselves in the branches, and the air was full of tlie sono- of birds. In the eveniiii;- it beo'an to rain for the first time after ten days of dry weather. It was the only considerable period of CHATER LAKE KAlTAlJAlKXiA, XEAU FORT PORTAL. good weather that the expedition had met A\itli among the mountains. On the following day they descended by a ])ath wliicli orew better and better, keeping upon the left bank of the stream. On reaching the bottom of tlie valley they turned southward, traversing the Bujuku and a small atHuent, and made straight for the Mobuku Avhere they found a rough bridge of bamboos. i'7G Bujnku Valley.— Return of the Expedition. Soon after they reached the fauiihar track down the Molniku Valley and climbed the moraine of Nakitawa. Two hours more brought them to Bihunga and two more to Thanda, where the whole expedition was now assembled. The Duke of the Alwuzzi had now fulfilled the task which he had undertaken ; his untiring energy, seconded Ijy the zeal JACK AGAIN ox THE SHORES OF l.AKE VICTOItlA. and ability of his companions, had brought the exploration of Piuwenzori to completion. I have put together in talnilar form a list ()f all the ascents of the Ruwenzori Peaks made by the members of the Italian expedition between the 10th of June and the 16th of July. This table shows the mountaineering' work done l)y the expedition. Chapter X. Table of Ascents in the Ri'wenzori Range made by the Expedition OF H.R.H. THE Duke of the Abkuzzi in the Months of June and July, 1906. Mountain. Peak. Height above sea-level. Date. By wliom climbed. Route followed. Stanley Margherita 16,815 June 18 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Brocherel From the col between Alex- a n d r a and jNIargherita Peaks. Alexandra . . . 16,749 June 18 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi Guides : J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Brocherel By the Eastern Ridge. June 20 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi 5J June 22 U. Cagni and A. Cavalli ' )> June 26 V. Sella 51 June 27 V. Sella and A. Roccati 5' Elena 16,388 June 20 H.R.H.theDuke of the Al»ruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Brocherel By an Eastern Gully. Moc'ljius ... June 25 V. Sella and A. Roccati Guides : Bro- cherel and Botta By the Eastern Ridge. Savoia 16,339 June 20 H.KH.theDuke of the Abruzzi Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier and Brocherel Traversed. The mountains are given in order of height. Guides are mentioned in first ascents only. 278 Bnjuku Valley. — Keturn of the Expedition. Table of Ascents i\ the Kiwenzoki Range made ijv the Kxi'kditkjn OF H.E.H. the Duke of the Ap.kuzzi, in the months of June ano July, 1906 — continued. Mountain. Peak. Height above sea-level. Date. Hj whom climbed. Route followed. Speke ... Vittorio I P^nianuele; 16,080 1 1 June 23 H.E.H. the Duke From the West, of the Al)ruzzi Guides : J. Peti- gax and Oilier Johnston . . . 15,906 — Xot climbed. j Baker ... Edward 15,988 June 10 July 2 July 5 H.E.H. the Duke From Grauer of the Abruzzi Col. Guides: J. Peti- gax, Oilier, and Brocherel V. Sella ...: From Fresh- field Col. H.E.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi July 7 H.E.H. the Diike of the Abruzzi )5 July 11 Y. Sella „ Semper 15,843 June 10 H.E.H. the Duke From Grauer of the Abruzzi | Col. Guides: J. Peti- 1 gax, Oilier, \ and Brocherel Wollastoii ... 15,286 July 10 H.E.H. the Duke By a Western of the Al)ruzzi Gully and the Guides : Oilier South Eidge. and L. Petigax Moore 15,269 June 12 Y. Sella Guides : Bro- cherel and Botta From- Grauer Col. July 10 H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi Traversed. The ir oimtaini' arc irive n in order o f heicht. G uide^ are mentioned ii 1 first ascents onlv. 279 Chapter X. Table of Ascexts in tiik Kiwexzori Kanke made p.y the Expeditidn OF H.R.H. THE Duke of the Ar.iazzi, ix the moxths of Juxe axd July, 1906 — continued. Mountain. Peak. Emin Umlierto Gessi Kraepelin lolanda Botteso Luigi di Weismann , Savoia Sella Stairs Caeni Height above sea-level. Date. Bv whom c-liinbi.'d. j Route followed. 15,797 ! June 28 H.R.H. theDuke By the South- of the Abruzzi West Ridge. Guides : J. Peti- gax, L. Peti- gax and Oilier 15,752 Not climhed. 15,647 July 16 H.R.H. the Duke Traversed. j , of the Al)ruzzi j Guides : J. Peti- ' gax and Oilier 15,483 i July 16 H.R.H. the Duke By the South 1 of the Aliruzzi Ridge. Guides : J. Peti- ' eax and Oilier 15,299 1 — 15,286 July 4 Not clim1»efl. 15,059 June 19 July 8 V. Sella Guides : cherel Botta Bro- and By a W. Gully and the North Ridge. V. Sella and By the Western A. Roccati, Ridge, without guides H.R.H. the Duke of the A])ruzzi 14,826 July 12 j V. Sella July 8 i U. Cagni [ Guides : J. Peti- ! gax and Bro- cherel July 9 I U. Cagni By the Northern Ridge. The mountains are given in order of height. Guides are mentioned in first ascents only. 280 Biijuku Valley. — Tveturn of the Expedition. It took the expedition two days to reach Fort Portal from Ibauda. Kuwenzori was again enveloped in its usual impenetrable veil of clouds and mists and they saw it no more. They were now again in the suflbcating heat of the plain, among the noisy crowd of porters and the familiar scenes of native villages witli their plantain groves, and again received at each stage by the chieftains with all the ceremonial of African etiquette. At Fort Portal the English officials, King Kasagama with his court, and the missionaries rivalled one another in hospitality and courtesy toward H.R.H. and his companions. While they were here, E-occati went with Sella upon a geological and photographic excursion to the craters and the crater lakes of the volcanic region of Toro. The shores of these lakes are covered with a dense vegetation of palms, dracenas, and euphorbia, which are mirrored in the water, while the water itself, the air and the wood swarm with an incredibly rich animal life, protected, perhaps, by the super- stition which causes the natives to shun these craters as haunts of wizards and of evil spirits. In the meantime, the Duke with Cagni and Cavalli, joined later by Sella, made some shooting excursions. It was now the dry and less favourable season. It was impossible to penetrate the dense grasses which formed walls on either side of the paths and hid the surrounding country. Every night round Fort Portal the district was lit up with the red o-lare of the fires, which burned miles and miles of dry grass. In the beo-inninp- of August the time came for their departure. Messrs. Knowles and Haldane accompanied them from Fort Portal. Notwithstanding the frequent storms, 281 Chapter X. there were field fires in every direction, which even became a source of danger to the camps when the wind blew that way. Whole districts were quite bare and covered with ashes. On tlie 7th of August, the expedition crossed the frontier between Toro and Uganda. Here it was met by Major Wyndham. The native porters seemed very impatient to get home and marched fast with few halts. The stages were differently distributed and the camps were set up in places where they had not stopped on the journey up. A halt was made at Byndia, as previously at Kichiomi in the Kingdom of Toro, for the j)urpose of making a series of magnetic observations. On the 14th of Auo;ust, thev at last reached the shores of Lake Victoria. The discipline of the caravan had become somewhat relaxed dining the last days, and 9,t every moment there were rows, disputes, and quarrels between the porters. They had chosen a more direct route to return, and reached the banks of the lake just opposite the extreme end of the peninsula upon which Entebbe is situated. Here native canoes were ready in sufficient numbers to carry the whole party. While the boats were being prepared and loaded, they lunched upon the bank of the lake in the shade of lofty trees. They reached Entebbe in the early afternoon. After a week spent in packing the luggage winch was to be carried back to Italy, and during which time they were entertained with the greatest hospitality and kindness by all the European residents, the expedition left Entebbe, with its crowd of islands and its flowery shores, upon the steamer StbijI. They stopped at Jinja to visit the famous llipon Falls, which 282 1 1 1 1 M 'F'-S^^^^l Bajuku Valley. — Return of the Expedition. form the origin of the Victoria Nile. Here they made an excursion in long native canoes upon the dark green waters of the river swarming with birds. On the 24th they reached Port Florence, and left the same day by train. On the 28th of August the Italian expedition left African soil upon the steamer Natal of the French Messageries. Five months later, before a largely attended meeting of the Roval Geographical Society, honoured by the presence of H.M. King Edward VTT., H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi srave an account of his discoveries, demonstratinu- that he had HEAD OF THE VICTORIA XIl.E. brought about the realization of the wish expressed five years before by Sir Henry M. Staidey before the same Society : " The dear wish that some person devoted to his work, some lover ot Alpine climbing, would take Ruwenzori in hand and make a thorough work of it, explore it from top to bottom, through all those enormous defiles and those deep gorges." Alas ! the great explorer died two years and a-lialf ago, and never saw his wish fulfilled. 285 Addendum. [This book was already in print when Mr. A. F. R. WoUaston brought out his vahiable book (" From Riiwenzori to the Congo," London, John Murray, pubHshed in September, 1908), in which, among other matters, he describes his cHmbs in the Ruwenzori chain. I have already dealt with his interesting mountaineering work in Chapters I and VII, in my sketch of the history of the exploration of Ruwenzori before H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi.] 286 The Appendices have been translated by Prof. A. H. Keane, LL.D., F.R.G.8. APPENDIX A. Dr. LUIGI HUGUES. THE MOUXTAIXS OF THE MOOX OF PTOLEMY'S GEOGRAPHY AND THE KUWEXZOPvI EAXGE. THE MOUNTAINS OF THE MOON OF PTOLEMY'S GEOGRAPHY AND THE RUWENZOKI RANGE. Ix Claudius Ptolemy's Geography (Book IV, chap. 8) we read as follows : " At the southern latitude of 12' 30', and between the longitudes of 57' and 67', there rises the ^lountaiu of the Moon, whose snows feed the lakes, sources of the Nile." As under the latitude specified by the Geographer there is no high land in equatorial Africa that is elevated enough to be described as snowy, and still less as rising above the line of perpetual snows, and as, moreover, a latitude lying so far to the south would place such a high land cpxite beyond the upper basin of the Nile, the suspicion is not without justification that several geographers have raised that the mention of the .Mountain (or of the Mountains) of the Moon does not come directly from Ptolemy, but is an interpolation foisted into his Geography by some Arab writer. This view is held by Cooley, who, in his Ptolemy and the Nile, published in 1854, thus expresses himself: "Ptolemy is a very methodical writer, and divides his Geography into chapters, each describing some natural zone or region, and containing connected information. Had he known that the lakes of the Nile were filled from the snows of mountains further south, he would, in conformity with his general method, have included these ultimate sources in his account of the river. Now the Mountains of the Moon are not mentiimed in the chapter which treats of the Nile (}), Imt in a separate and, as it were, supplementary chapter, containing matters avowedly obscure and little known, and even there they are mentioned not directly, but in an oblique manner, and with a very suspicious gloss." (-) Note. — Tiio figures in brackets in the text refer to the note* printed at the end of thi» Appendix. 289 A])])endix A. Dr. Ileiurifh Kiepert also appears lu accept the same view where he writes ill his Treatise on Ancient Geof/raphi/ : "The expression 'Blue Mountains (Jibel gomr), given l)y the Arabs to those great mountain masses (Kenia, Kilimanjaro and others), seen only from afar, and indistinctly, has long been wrongly interpreted in the sense of ' Moiuitains of the Moon ' (Jibel-el-Qamar), and thus gave rise to the translation i:<,\/;/';/v o/,t,s- which is given on Ptolemy's map, and to an error which the lecent exploiations in that regit)n of Africa have banished from our maps and from our books." (•^) " The strange name of Mountains of the Moon," says I'lof. AUVed Kirchhoff, "is due probably to an interchange of two Arab terms or to the twofold meaning of one and the same term." (•*) And, in fact, the Aral* writer el-Nowaii'i, quoted l)y Masudi, asserts that Kamar (read Qamar) means both moDn and ir/iife. And in this connection it will not be beside the question to note that Aristotle had already placed the sources of the Nile in a ' Silvei' Mountain' (Wfr/i'ipeov o/jo?). ("') This Silver Mountain has a striking analogy with the White Mountain of the mediivval Aral I wi'itci's. an analogy which suggests some important and sensible I'cflections to Vivien de Saint-Martin. ('') If the mention of the Mountains of the .Moon, or else of the A\'hite Mountains (?) is of Arab origin, which, besides the stated reasons, might also be sh(»wn to be probable from the fact that no allusion to that lofty range is made in the edition of Ptolemy's (Geography issued by Donis in 1482, (") the latitude 12° 30' S. would have been inserted in the text to bring it into accord with the position assigned by the Alexanch-ian (Geographer to the two lakes, sources of the Nile. And respecting these lakes, here is what we gather from the seventh chapter of PJook IV : — The western lake has latitude (south) 6' and longitude oT' ; the eastern is at latitude (south) 7° and longitude 65°. The rivers issuing fiom these two lakes unite at north latitude 2 and under the 60th meridian, and they thus iorm the chief ]»ranch of the Nile, which at north latitude 2 and undei' the 61st meridian receives the Kiver Astapus, emissary fi-oiii Lake Coloe, wliirh lies on the equinoxial line and under the 69tli degree of longitude. It is quite understood that the Ptolemaic data referi'ing to geographical features are not to be taken literally. The nuinbei- of astronomic ol»servations at the command of Ptolemy was very limited ; the results of those few observa- tions, especially for the longitudes, were nearly all very far from the actual. To accomplish the gigantic work that he had undertaken, no better means occurred to the (Geographer than that of reducing to astronomic data the elements distances and directions deiived from the itineraiies l»oth l»y land anil water, or alr-eady known from previous works, amongst which, first and 290 The lUnveiizori ]{anatosthenes of 700 to the equatorial degree was taken as the unit : in which case the reduction should be by -?. Moreover, in a great many cases there occur errors of another nature, amongst which outstanding are those derived from the imperfect knowledge possessed by the ancients of many places and countries, from the inevitable inaccuracies in the calculation of distances and in determining the relative positions, from the windings of the route followed and so on. Despite of all this it is remarkable, not to say absolutely astounding, that the above-mentioned single reduction by ^ suffices for the geographical sketch of the Upper Nile lands, such as is drawn by Ptolemy's Geography, to correspond broadly if not precisely with that presented to us ])y the modern maps. On this no doubt (|uite casual coincidence it will not be useless to dwell for a moment. The latitude of Alexandria is given liy Ptolemy as 30 30' X. (it is really 31 12'): from Alexandria to the parallel of the eastern lake are therefore reckoned 37 30' E. = 37' E. Xow the ^ oi 37 5' are equivalent to 31 25' = 31' 15', ami that lake thus falls under 0" 45' south latitude. A similar calculation for the western lake lirings us to north latitude 0" 9'. ('^) These 291 r -2 Appendix A. latitudes are very closely those of the northern shores of Lakes Victoria Xyanza and Albert Edward. I come -now to the longitudes. That of the western lake (57') differs scarcely 3° from the longitude of Alexandria (GO according to Ptolemy), hence actually oidy 2 30' l>y the above-mentioned reduction. We have, there- fore, a result little inferior to the reality, since the longitudes of Alexandria and of the west side of Lake All>ert Pxlward are relatively to the meridian of Greenwich 30' and 1'9 30' (both E.) respectively, according to Staidey's map. The longitude of the eastern lake is 65" in Ptolemy, as above stated. It would consequently lie to the east of the meridian of Alexandria, and at a distance of 5' (-4 10') according to the i-eduction. Now the mean longitude of Lake Victoria is 33 15' E., so that the difference is only minus 0° 55'. Thus in respect of the longitudes also there is nothing to prevent the identification of the two Ptolemaic lakes with Lakes Albert Edward and Victoria, The confluence of the two effluents is placed by Ptolemy under the meridian of Alexandria (^-), and in tlie noith latitude of 2. Hence it may fairly be placed where the river called the .Somerset Nile by Speke enters Lake All)ert, fiom which it soon again issues. Its latitude is little more than 2 X., while its longitude does not greatly exceed 30° E. Everything might therefore be reconciled by accepting Ptolemy's figures Avithout any serious modification. On the other hand, by the process of reduction we get for the point of confluence G 45' north latitude. It is, however, to be noted that somewhere about this latitude the main stream of the Nile begins to traverse a marshy region watered by several rivers nearly parallel to it. amongst them the Eahr el-Zaraf, the Nam Rol, and others, and that further on, towards latitude 9 N., the Bahr el-Abiad (White Nile) is joined 1)oth 1)y the Bahr el-Ghazal coming fiom the west, and the Sobat from the east. To me the hypothesis does not seem at all too daring that precisely in this region the Alexandi-ian Geographer placed the confluence of the two upper branches, on the mistaken assumption that one of those rivers trending north was in fact the emissary of the eastern lake, just as for some years after Speke's memorable expedition Lake Baringo was supposed to l^e a north-eastern feeder of Lake Victoria, and had for its emissary the Asua, which is now kno\vn to flow, not to the lake but straight to the Nile at Dufile. (^•') The almost perfect agreement of the results of modern research with the Ptolemaic data regaiding the geographical features of the two lakes, .sources of the Nile, is, I repeat, to be con.sidered as a mere coincidence. 8till the idea entertained l>y the great geographer on the general disposition of the upper Jjasin of the Egyptian river was, broadly speaking, correct. And this might 292 riie Huwenzori Kaiiire &' at first sight he ex{)huiR'(l liy a(hiiittiiig that those iiotioiis ahout the livdro- graphic rehitions might liave l»eeii gathered Ity Ptolemy with the help of itineraries made along the valley of the river itself and generally in the direction from north to sonth. ('^) Only, as Ptolemy himself says, these particulars were extant, at least in part, in the work of Marin us of Tyre, who in his turn had derived them from one of the then i-ecent reports of the first Ureek navigators of Egypt, who frequented the markets of Ivist Africa from Cape Aromata to Cape Khaptum (^'^) : " After this he (Maiiiuis) says that in the voyage between the Aromata and Rhaptum promontories a certain Diogenes . . . was in the neighbourhood of the Aromata, driven liy the northern winds, and having on his right hand the Troglodytica arrived in five days at the lakes where the Nile rises, these lakes being somewhat more to the north than Rhapta." {^*^) In this the geographer of Tyre is contradicted by Ptolemy, who a little further on says : "The lakes whence rises the Nile are not near the sea, but far more inland on the Continent/' This is an important correction very probably suggested to Ptolemy by the reports of those Greek seafarers, since the places from time to time visited Ijy them on the east coast of Africa were not only important from the commercial standpoint, but also as so many centres whither fresh and numerous particulars could not fail to come to hand about the geographical and natural conditions of the inland regions. Xo wonder, therefore, if amongst those particulars was also that most important one regarding the existences of two lakes; and as the emporium of Rhapta, a place of great consequence and spoken of by Ptolemy as a metropolis {'Pa-Tr't «(y7/jo-o\' 10'. The almost identical results at which we arrive l)y taking as centres of 293 Ap])endix A. astronomic studies the city of Alexuiuhia and the commerciul emporium of Rhapta, lead of themselves to the hypothesis that, besides the details gathered fiom the Greek seafarers along the east coast of Africa, the Alexandrian Geographer also utilized the information ol)tained in the \alley of the great river itself. Nor wW\ this assumption appear too l)old if we bear in mind that long before the time of Ptolemy, the great Eratosthenes, speaking of the chief branch of the Nile, ex])ressed himself thus : " Two waterways fall into the Nile : they both come from cei-tain lakes lying far to the east and enclosing a very large island known l)y the name of Meroe. One of these waterways, called Astaboras, forms the east side of the island, the other is called Astapus. Some authors, however, give to the latter the name of Astasobas, and apply the name Astapus to another waterway, which they bring from the lakes lying in the region of the south, and regard it in some way as tiie main stream or else as the chief branch of the Nile, adding that its periodical floods are due to the summer rains." ('■') If, as seems beyond doubt, the Astalioras is to l)e identiticil with the Atbara, the Astasobas with the Bahr el-Azrek or Klue Nile, and the Astapus with the White Nile or Bahr el-Abiad (main l)ranch of the Nile), Ptolemy would have but repeated on the w^hole what three centuries before him had been so well expressed by the Libiaiian of Alexandria, merely adding on his own pait the positions — latitude and longitude — of the two lakes lying in the region of the south, that is, south of the equinoxial line whose waters feed the chief artery of the all-important fluvial system. At this point we meet with an appaientlv serious objection. According to the authors alluded to In' Eiatosthenes the name Astapus is given to the principal branch of the Nile flowing from the south, whereas Ptolemy applies it to an affltient of the Nile which, issuing from Lake Coloe under the et]uinoxial line, falls into the main stream at latitude 12° N. But, as above stated, the objection is only apparent. Eratosthenes, speaking for himself, had already given the name of Astapus to the river mai'king the west (and south-west) side of the island (peninsula) of Meioe. that is to say, the Aliai or Bahi' cl-Azrek. Ptolemy, on his part, did not think it right to depart fi(mi the opinion of his predecessor, and so kept the name of Astapus for the subcjrdinati! river. It might be more important to notice in the Geography of the Alexandrian two errors, one of which affects the Lake Coloe (Lake Tana or Tsana in the heart of Abyssinia), which he places under the ecpiinoxial line. The other mistake consists in describing the Astaboras as a river which nnngles its waters with the Astajjus. But an encjuiry into all tlu-sc matters, besides requiring too great a development, would lie foieign to the question of the lakes, sources of the Nile, and to that of the Mountains of the Moon. Notice can oidy be taken of the 294 The Ruwenzori Range. mistake made 1)y Stanley, who, after calling; Ptolemy " the Kavenstein or the Justus Perthes of his period" (Vol. II, p. 270), says that the easternmost lake was called by Ptolemy Coloc Fahis, whereas this lake is expressly descril)ed in the Alexandrian's work as l)elonging to the secomlary liasin of the Pahi- el-Azrek. (•■^^') Meanwhile, from the facts so far pointed out, we clearly see how greatly those authors are at fault who place the two lakes of the Upper Nile, and as a necessary consequence the Mountains of the Moon too, in the highland region of Abyssinia, thus turning the Ptolemaic data upside down, and stating in support of their assumption that the ancients knew of only Nile ; he had learnt also the existence of a range of mountains, some of which ivere so lofly as to he covered with snow, thougli situated under the equator; he then at once assumed that the lakes were fed by the snows of the mountains, and having no real idea of the position of these last, drew them on his map in a straight line, to the south of the lakes, extending far enough to the cast and west, to supply, as he conceived, tlie necessary drainage." See History of Ancient Geography, Vol. II, p. 61(5. It is needless to observe that the learned historian does not admit with Cooley the 299 Appendix A. inU'rpolation ot' the passage in flu* Gotigmphy where allusion is made to tlic Mountains of the iloon, or, in other words, lie holds tlieui to have been written by Ptolemy himself. " The attempt of Mr. Cooley," lie writes, '" to discard altogether the Mountains of the Moon as an interpolation in the text of Ptolemy, due to the Arabian Geographers, appears to me wholly untenable. The passage in wliicli he speaks of them (IV, 9, 3) is unconnected witli tliat con- cerning tlie two lakes (IV, 8, 23), and probably derived fi-om a difPorent authority ; but it is not inconsistent with it." {See op cif., p. 617, note 3.) (-^) O. Batmann, Diirch Masailand ziir yHqxelle, p. 133. (j*) Before these geographical details were known, geographers were naturally inclined to identify those snowy mountains of East Africa with the Mountains of tlir Moon of Ptolemy's Geogi-ajiliy. It will sutliee to mention Chakles Bkke {On the Jloinifains forming the eastern side of the Site, Edinburgh, 18(31) ; VlVlEN DE Saixt-Maktin {Le Xord de V Afriqiie dans V Antiqitite f/revqite el romiine, Paris, 1863) ; Etienne Felix Berlioux {Doctrina Ptolemaei ab injnria reeentioritm rindicafa, Paris, 1874:), Sir E. II. BrXBrRY (A History of Ancient Geography, Vol. II, p. 617) ; H. Tozek, who, in his History of Ancient Geography, published in 1897, hence subsequently to Stanley's last great expedition, writes at p. 352 : " The intelligence which is contained in these two statements (regarding the two lakes as sources of the Nile and the iVIuinitaiiis of the Moon) was probably transmitted, not by way of the Nile Valley, which was not followed by traders beyond the marshy region which has been already noticed, but from the coast in tlie neighbourhood of Zanzibar, where the station of Hliapta liail liecii estal)lis]ied. On this supposition it is not improbable tliat tlic lakes here sjiokcn of arc the A'ictt>ria and Albert Nyanza, and tlie mention of so unusual a )>lu-in)iiicM(in as snow-covcrcd mountains in the neighbourhood of the equator supports the conjecture that the Mountains of the Moon are none other than Mounts Kilimanjaro (19,700 feet), and Kenia" (18,370 feet), wliicli lie between those lakes and the sea." (-'■') Amongst the most vigorous cham]tions of Stanley's view is H. S. Sciilichteu, who concludes his learned work on Ptoi.emv's Topography of Eastern Equatorial Africa (1891), with the following words : — " Mr. Stanley's discovery of this great snow mountain, surrounded by a series of other peaks, forms, so to speak, the key to the whole (juestion of tht> Momitains of the Moon. For it is perfectly clear that hy the Ploleiiiacan mountain, tlie snows of whicli feed the Nile lakes, only Kuwenzori can be meant, as may be seen from a glance at Mr. Stanley's map, wliere we find a great number of rivers ([ have counted nun'c than forty) which flow from the heights of Ruwenzori into tlu> Semliki or the Allici-t Edward Nyanza. We have seen that tlie western end of the Mountains of tlic Moon, as dcscrilicil liy Ptolemy, coincides willi Ruwenzori, and Mr. Stanley is tlici'ct'ore perfectly just ilicd in claiming to have found and identified the lofty peaks, celebrated in antiquity, in which tlie Nile takes its rise, and which, for many centuries past, were more enigmatical than any other mountain in the world." Dealing with a question whose final resolution, in tlic absence of safe and ])<)sitive- data and in the scarcity of actual facts, must always remain a " pious wish," one well understands how Sehliehter's conclusions were not unanimously accepted, and even found formidable o)>ponents, amongst whom Ravenstt'in must be specially mentioned. The examination of the arguments advanced for and against would far exc.'cd tlic modest limits to wliii'li I have cimfincd myself in tlicse ])ages. I must rest satislicd with here (juoting tlic o])iiiioii exjircssed ;}00 The liuwenzori Range. on till' subject In SiK Hexry H. Johxstux in liis r.-ceiit work, Tin- Xilt Qin-st, \>. 2S : " The present writer is unable to understand why that able geographer, Mr. E. G. Ravensteiu, has doubted the identifieation of Euwenzori with Ptolemy's Mountains of the Moon. It must be obvious, when all faets are considered, that Ruwenzori was tlie principal genu of tliis idea. Tlie Greek traders at Rhapta (Pangani) no doubt liad some idea of the existence of Kiliman- aro, but it is doubtful whetlier either tlie single dome of Kilimanjaro or the gleaming pinnacle of Kenia would impress the imagination so strongly as the whole brilliant range of Ruwenzori's four or five snow ]»eaks and thirty miles of glaciation." 301 APPENDIX B. ASTROXOAIIC, GEODETIC AND METEORO- LOGICAL OBSERYATIOXS. I.— REPORT ON ASTRONOMIC OBSERVATIONS, By p. CAMPIGLI. 11. —GEODETIC OBSERVATIONS, By p. CAMPIGLI. Ill— REPORT ON METEOROLOGICAL AND ALTIMETRIC OBSERVATIONS, By prof. d. omoi)p:i. In this note are contained the relations .md calculations of the astronomic, meteorological and geodetic observations which H.K.H. the Duke of the Al)ruzzi was able to carr\' out on the route from Entebbe to Bujongolo, and during the exploration of the Ruwenzori Range. The calculations relating to these observations, as well as the construction and plan of the topographic maps accompanying the present volume were executed at the Hydrographic Institute of the Royal Navy at Genoa. The way b}'^ which the astronomic and meteorological observations were made, from which were obtained the positions and altitudes of the various points indicated on the maps, as well as the methods of calculation employed, are all eml)odied in the accompanying special reports drawn up through the care of the Director of the said Institute, Mattia Giavotto, Captain of frigate, the sections dealing with the meteorology and the astronomic observations being prepared by Prof. Omodei and the " Capo-Tecnico " 8ig. P. Campigli respectively. 305 L— REPORT ON ASTRONOMIC OBSERVATIONS. By p. Campigli. The astronomic determinations made by H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi on the route between Entebl)e and Ruwenzori are the result of solar observations made with an aluminium sextant, which was constructed in the engineering workshop of the Naval Hydrographic Institute at Genoa. Its graduated arc has a radius of 145 mm. (about 6 inches), being so subdivided as to show the 20 seconds on the vernier. Magnaghi's astronomic circle was used only in the very few cases where, for observations at the meridian or in its neighbourhood, the height of the sun was such as to make the use of the sextant less convenient. Of course, all measured heights were duplicated at an artificial mercurial horizon, care being taken to reverse the position of the roof at half of each series of observations, in order to lessen to the utmost the influence of errors in case the glasses of the said roof should eventually become prismatically affected. The calculations were carried out by means of logarithms of 8 decimals, tables of 7 decimals Ijeing used only in calculating the mean hour at Greenwich at the moment of emersion of BAG 81 from the lunar disk, as observed at midnight between the 11th and 12th July, 1906, at Bujongolo, the last astronomic station in the district nearest to the Ruwenzori uplands. The astronomic refraction ?•, corresponding to the considerable altitudes at which the astronomic observations were made during the journey, was calculated with Bessel's well-known formula : — /• = log {(I. tang ■) + A (log B + log T) + log y, neglecting the factor A, for apparent zenith distances z, under 77°, and the factor A, Ijesides A, for apparent zenith distances less than 45\ The values of the elements contained in the foregoing formula were deduced from Albrecht's tables, 1894 edition. But the Table 34/, which gives the value of log B, only comprises barometric pressures between 600 and 780 mm. (24 and 31 inches), 307 X 2 A])|)endix 11 whereas the expedition reached altitudes at which consideraltly lower pressures had to be recorded ; hence, besides All)recht's 34/ table the following was also calculated, and is hi're inserted, as it may be found useful in other cases. Barom. logB. Baroni. logB. Barom . logB. ; 1 Barom. logB. Barom. logB. mm. mm. mm. mill. mm. 400 27387 440 23248 480-0 194fi9 520 15993 560-0 12774 lo 27279 41 23149 81-0 19378 21 •() 15909 61 -0 12697 2 27170 42 23051 82-0 19288 22-0 15826 62-0 12619 3 27062 43 1 22953 83 19198 23 15743 63-0 12542 4 26933 44 1 22865 84-0 19108 24-0 15660 64-0 12465 5-0 26847 45 22752 85-0 19019 25-0 15577 65-0 12388 6 26740 46 22660 86-0 18929 26 15494 66 12311 7 26634 47 22562 87 18840 27 15412 ti7-0 12235 8 26527 48 22465 88-0 18751 28-0 15339 68-0 12158 9 26421 49 22368 89 18662 29 15247 69-0 12082 410 26315 4.50 22272 490-0 18573 530-0 15163 570-0 12006 11-0 26209 51 20 23 20 27 32 .. ^tm =^ + 5'' 15'" 39«- 1 33 5) = + 39 1 34 )) = + 35 5 35 )) = + 34 6 37 55 = + 5 15 33 2 38 55 = 4. 31 9 39 55 = + 5 15 29 9 40 55 = + 32 41 55 = + 5 15 26 8 42 55 r^ 4- 29 • 4 From the mean of the results for llth and 28th June respectively, we get, omitting the intermediate observations : llth June, S'' 45'" C,„, = + 5"' 15'» 37^-1 28th „ 20 25 „ = + 5 15 28 -1 Interval 17'^^>'" 16*^ 40"" Difference 9^-0 Hence : B = - 0^-509. The change occurring in the mean daily correction of this chronometer is seen to be considerable, if the value just found Ije compared with that previousl}' obtained at Entebbe ( - 2^'762). But now we merely require an approximate value of the longitude of Bujongolo for the calculation of the emersion of B A C 81, and this will give us the absolute longitude of that same point. Hence we take the by no means arbitrary course of adopting, as mean daily correction of the No. 1 chronometer during the journey, the mean of the two daily corrections obtained at Entebbe and at Bujongolo, that is to sav : 2 * The date is astronomic, and the hour is referred to tlie mcxn local time . 311 Appendix B. Referring the oliservatioiis of the 26th, 27th and 28th June to the date of those of the 11th, and using the daily correction - 0*"509 we get, l)v applying the just found mean daily correction P"635, the following values for the longitude of Bujongolo : 11th June. — 8un at AV. A = P SO-" 53^ 8 KG 11th J) )) )) )) ^^ 53 5 )) 11th >) >> J) 5> 49 9 )j 11th )> >j J) >5 49 „ 26th )) Sun at E. )) ^^ 55 5 „ 26th )? )) )) >5 54 3 >» 27th J' )) >) >> ^ 52 8 5) 27th )' >) >5 „ = 54 9 >) 28th ?5 >J )* )J 50- 2 5) 28th )> )? )> = 52- 8 )> Groiaping these results for each single day of observation we get : Bujongolo. — 11th June A = P 59"" 5P-5 26th 27th 28th 54-9 53-8 51-5 Disregarding further considerations as to weight, and given the degree of approximation now required, the mean of these data is : Bujongolo \ = r^ 59" 52^-9 KG. This value is used in calculating the Greenwich time at the moment of the emersion of B A C 81 from the lunar disk, which phenomenon occiured on 11th July under most favourable conditions for observation. The determina- tions of the horary angle, obtained for this occasion with the view of ascertaining the state of the chronometer respecting the mean local time, gave the following results : Bujongolo : 10th July, 21'> 18'"....0bs. No. 47. 10th 21 20 11th 20 01 11th 20 03 11th 20 07 11th 20 11 12th \f< 08 47. Sun at E. C,„,= +5'> 15" ' 33^ •0 48 j» )> 5, = + 32 •3 56 >) n „ = +5 15 34 9 57 51 51 „ = + 33 7 58 )> »> „ = + 32 4 59 >) )) ,5 = + 32 9 60 !> )) „ -^ + 5 15 34 4 312 I. — Astronomic Observations. Although this completely agrees with the menu teuour of the other results, the last value is for the present neglected, and, after obtaining the nieaii of each day, we get as general mean : 11th July, S" 42"' C„„= +5M5'" 33«-l. From the ol)servations taken ;it Bujongolo during the days following our arrival we had (see p. 311): 2Sth June, 20'' 25" C„„= + o'' IS"" 28^-1. Hence for this interval of 12-52 days we olitain the diurnal correctioti : K= +0^-398 with which we get : 12th July, 0" of local time C„„= + 5" IS™ 33«-3 Moment of Occultatiou „ = + 5M 5-" 33^-2 With this element and with the approximate longitude already obtained, we proceed to a first calculation of mean Greenwich time at the moment of emersion of B AC 81 from the lunar disk, the moment when the No. 1 chronometer indicated 10'' 14'" 4^ (Obs. No. 55). From the first approximation we got : Bujongolo X = P 59'" 59^- 2 E.G. The calculation for a second approximation, in which account was also taken of the terms of second order, only very slightly modified the result. Thus : Bujongolo \ = 1" 59"" 59^- 33 KG. As, however, the value of the longitude thus obtained might be seriously affected by even a slight error in the lunar co-ordinates given by the ephemerides, we consulted some astronomic observers in order to ascertain whether, about the time when the expected occultatiou took place, any ol)servations of lunar culminations had concurrently lieen made. This was done in order to introduce into the calciilation the error of the position of the moon. Prof. Millosevich, Director of the Observatory of the Collegio Komano, in liome, having untlertaken the determination of the longitude of Tripoli, where the astronomer. Dr. Bianchi, was observing transits of the moon at meridian, proceeded to take observations of lunar culminations at the Collegio Romano from the 2nd to the 7th July, 1906. From these he obtained for 11th July— time of the occultation— a correction for the right ascension of the moon= +0'-l8, and this agrees perceptibly with that communicated to us by Greenwich for the same date = + 0*''20. It may l)e mentioned tliat Greenwich also supplied us with the correction for that date of the lunar declination = + P"8. 313 Appendix 11 Hence the same Prof. Millosevich advised us to assume with full confidence the corrections for the lunar co-ordinates received from Greenwich, and these yielded the longitude for Bujongolo : X = 2" 0™ 6^-3 e:.g. This again agrees closely with the value 2*" 0™ G'^'O East Greenwich, obtained hy Prof. Millosevich, who was also good enough to make the same calculation. The latitude was obtained from two meridian altitudes and from two series of circummeridians (Obs. Nos. 38, 43, 44, 46, and 49 to 54), observed partly by H.R.H. and partl}^ by Commander Cagni. Between the results of the two observers there occurs a considerable difference, the origin of which may be attributed to some anomaly of refraction. In fact, H.R.H. was in this instance induced to depart from his practice of observing the lower limb of the sun, owing to an unusual optic phenomenon which caused him to notice on the lower edge of the reflected image a false limli which would not have allowed a good observation. Hence the discrepancy in the results is to be attributed to this particular state of the atmosphere. Therefore, in order to prevent the observations of H.R.H., which were the more numerous, from too greatly influencing the results, the mean of the circummeridian series was first obtained, and the resulting value taken as a mean with the results of the meridian ol)servations. The several values thus obtained are : 17th June. — Meridian — Commander Cagni = 0° 19' 50" N. 9th July. — „ —H.R.H. „ = 20 55 „ 10th „ — Circummerid. — Commander Cagni „ = 19 52 „ 11th „ —Meridian —H.R.H. „ = 20 54 „ These data yielded for Bujongolo = 20' 23" X. With the longitude of Bujongolo is ol_)tained the al)solute correction of the chronometer for the period of arrival at that encampment, and subsequently the mean daily correction of the same chi-ononieter for the period occupied by the journey. Thus was obtained : Bujongolo.— 19th June, 3'^ 45"' . = +5'^ 15'" 37^-1 = + 2 6-3 Ki = +3 15 30-8 This absolute coii"ectii)n on mean Greenwich time corresponds with the date of 11th June at 3'' 45"' of mean local time. And as at P]ntel)be on 11 til May, at 23" 31"' of mean local time, we had K, = 3" IG'" 34'*- 9, we shall 314 I. — Astronomic Observations. get, taking account of the difference of longitude between Bujongolo and Entel)l)e ( + 9™ 45^), the daily mean correction K, = — 2*' 123, which we shall utilize for the determinations of position made in the period from 11th May to 11th June. Owing to an unforeseen circumstance, on the return journey, and after the arrival of the expedition at Fort Xorth Portal, the No. 1 chronometer imder- went, like the others, a perceptible change in- its movement. This was due to a considerable delay which occurred in winding it, so that once it was necessary to proceed to the revision of the longitude of Fort Portal which had been determined on the outward journey. On the return, the conveyance of Greenwich time from Bujongolo will lie limited to this intermediate p(jint, since, o\A'ing to the above-mentioned change in the movement of the chrono- meter, it would be impossible to convey said time to Entebbe for purposes of control. Retaining the value of the daily correction just found (K^ =z — 2^ • 123) as a c^uantity proportional to the time, and ^Wth the (approximate) latitude of Fort Portal = 0' 39' 20" X., we get the value of the longitude from four series of altitudes (Obs. Xos. 17, IS, 19, and 20), obtaining : Fort Portal.— 31st May. A = 2'' 1'" 32^-2 E.G. )5 )' 5) '^^ '- >) J> J> 55 ^ Oil ,, )) 55 55 ^^ "^"^ ' 5) and as mean : Fort Portal A = 2i' 1"^ 32^-5 E.G. a value which is adopted as the longitude of said place. The latitude of Fort Portal is obtained from a series of three circum- meridians observed on 31st May, and from meridian altitudes of 22nd and 28th July (Obs. Xos. 21, 22, 23, 75, and 86). The mean of the five results yielded for : Fort Portal <^ = 0^ 39' 28" X. a value which differs little from that employed for the calculation of the longitude. Using the longitude just found, we get the absolute correction of Xo. 1 chronometer at Fort Portal (return journey) by means of eight series of observations, as under : K, = 4-3*^ 15"" 16^-1 ., = 15-9 17-5 16-5 315 'ort Portal. —21st July, 4'' 11"\ ..Obh =. Xo. 73 : 4 18 74; 19 53 ,5 76; 19 55 ,5 77; Appendix B Fort Portal. 22iid July, 19'^ 53-" .. Obs. No, .78; Ki - 3'> 15™ 18^' •8 22nd „ 19 55 >) 79; n 20- 1 23rd „ 20 6 >) 80; >> = 22 ■ 6 23rd „ 20 8 j> 81; M _ 22 ■ 2 Of this the mean for the double series required l)y the above-mentioned inversion of the glass roof of the artificial horizon is : 21st July, i"" 15'" Kj=+3M5™16« •0 21st „ 19 54 „ = + 17 •0 22nd „ 19 54 „=+ 19 ■ 5 23rd „ 20 7 „ = + 22 •4 Referring these values to the date coinciding with the first of them, and noting the hour indicated by the chronometer, we get : 21st July (civil)— (p.m.) : /, = 10'" 57'" 49^..K^=3'' 15-" 15^-8 as the mean on Greenwich mean time. From the determinations of the time at Bujongolo on the 10th, 11th, and 12th July (astronomic dates), the results of which have been given at p. 312, we obtain the absolute correction of Xo. 1 chronometer. Referring all the values to the date of the last, and passing from the absolute correction of the chronometer to the absolute correction on Greenwich, we get : 13th July (civil)— (a.m.) : /,. = 2'> 51'" 6\..K, = 3'' 15"' 28s-4 from which in the interval between the 13th and 21st July the daily correction of the chronometer is found to be : Kj = - P-.521. As already stated at p. 315, on the return journey the chronometers at Fort Portal varied considerably through lack of control, so that, before leaving this place, we proceeded to the determination of their correction by means of six series of altitudes, the results being : K, = + 3" 32-" 57^- 6 51-0 „ = 59-5 59-9 64-8 „ = 64-7 The disagreement of the second sciies induced us to abandon it, the influence of some error in the observations being obvious. 31G 27th July. -Obs. Xo .82; C=10" 20"' IP 27th „ 83; ,,-10 23 28th „ 84; „= 2 21 28th „ 85; „= 2 23 8 31.st „ 87; ,,-10 25 44 31. St „ 88; ,, = 10 27 53 I. — Astronomic Observations. Eeferriiig the daily values of the ahsulute currectiou to the mean date of the values of the last double series we get : 31st July (civil) (p.m.), f, = 10'' 26'" 48^..Ki - + 3" 33'" r,*- which represents the absolute correction of the chronometer on Greenwich time before starting on the return journey from Fort Portal to Entebbe. On reaching the latter place it was found impossible to get a new telegraphic comparison with Mombasa, as on the outward journey. Hence proceeded to the determination of the al)solute correction of the chronometer, usincr for Entebbe the longitude 2'' 9'" 47^ East Greenwich given us by the competent local authority. The result was : 16th August.— Obs. Xo. 110 ; t,.= W 29"" T'^ ... K, = + 3^ 3.3'" 29"- 9 16th „ „ 111; ,, = 10 31 13 „ = 28-5 17th „ „ 112; „--. 2 43 55 „ = 25-2 17th „ „ 113; „= 2 46 1 „ = 23-8 We see /^ ^inm that in this interval of little over 16 hours the movement of the chronometer indicates a strong variation, such as had never occurred during the whole journey. Instead of taking the mean of these values, it was thought expedient to use the results alone of the two series of 16th August observed immediately after the arrival at Entelibe. From these we o-et : 16th August (civil), (p.m.): 10- 30'" 10'. ..Kj = + 3'' 33"' 29^-2 so that the daily correction of the chronometer to be used in the interval fi'um 31st July to 1.5th August was : Ki = + P-.510. The question now was to see what degree of confidence might be placed in the daily corrections which had so far been olitained. From the fact that the longitude of a few points was determined both on the outward and the return journey, we were offered a means of control which, if it stood alone would not he alisolutely safe, since it was always possible that the errors by which the accepted daily corrections might be afiected might be such, in magnitude and sign (plus or minus), as to lead to longitudinal results apparently concordant though really very incorrect. As, however, there were several points determined under such conditions, so that in some cases we could ascertain the degree of concordance in the longitudinal results, from this might be inferred both the practical value of the daily corrections that had been adopted, and the measure of confidence that might be placed in the positions obtained from the astronomic observations. 317 Appendix B. The position of Il>anda, a place lying b^'tween Bujongolo and Fort Portal, was determined both on going and returning. From four meridian altitudes (Obs. Nos. 27, 65, 66, and 67), we obtained for this point the latitude = 0' 19' 59" X.. and from this were deduced the following longitudinal Talues : — On the outward joui-ney : Ibanda Obs. Xo. 28 A = 2'^ 0'" iP-0 E.G. » V 29 Mean )> 43 •1 >) - 2'' 0'» 43 •5 On the return journey : Iltanda. — OIjs. Xo . 62 \ - 2'^ 0'" 43^- 9 E.G. 55 63 5> ^^ 41 •5 „ )) 6-1 )? 42 •5 „ ?) 68 ') ^^ 42 ■ 'i „ >) 69 J) ~ 43 •5 „ Mean „ = 2'' 0™ 42^- 8 „ Such is the agreement listween thsse two results that we may even disregard all considerations as to the weights to be adopted for the values obtained, whether as regards the number of concurrent observations, or the length of time during which Greenwich time had to l>e conveyed. In this case there intervened 22 daj's for the determination of longitude on going (that is, Greenwich time was conveyed for 22 days), compared with a mean of about 5 days of conveyance for the determination macL> on oui' return. Moreover, given the degree of accuracy that may be required, allowing for the available means and the limited lime at the disposal of the expedition, we found it advisable to adopt as the value of the longitude of Ibanda the me.m of the two results, namely : ll)an(la A = 2'' 0"' 43^-2 E.G. In the district between Entebbe and Port Portal there are two other points which offered the same conditions, and which consecjuently contributed to supply means of control. For Kichiomi, which is one of these two points, we ■obtained by the observation of a meridian altitude both going and returning {Obs. Nos. 10 and 99) the following result : Kichiomi = 31' 20" X. Adopting this value for the calculation of longitude we obtained on going : Kichiomi.— 01)s. Xo. 11 \ = 2" 4'" 27^-3 E.G. 318 I. — Astronomic Observations. On the return Kichiomi.— Obs. No. 100 \ = 2'^ 4™ 26^-0 IvG. „ „ 101 „ 25-9 „ Mean \ = 2" 4"" 26«- „ Here also the agreement between the two results is satisfactory, and for the reasons already stated wa retain as definite vahie the mean of the two results, as under : Kichiomi \ = 2'^ 4"^ 26"- 7. An analogous process is taken for Muyongo, where the latitude (p=-- 0^ 30' 41" N. was obtained by two circummeridians (Obs. Nos. 12 and 13) observed on going; introducing this vahxe in the calculation of the longitude, for which there are two series of altitudes on going and two on returning, we get : Going : Misongo.— Obs. No. 14 \ = 2'' 3™ 56^-5 E.G. 15 „= 55^-8 „ Returning : Misongo.— Obs. No. 97 \ = 2^ 3™ 55^-4 E.G. 98 „= 54-6 „ or taking the simple mean : Misongo X = 2^' 3™ 55^ 6 E.G. Thus we get a third test regarding the practical value of the daily corrections adopted for the chronometer. And since the results of longitude were repeatedly concordant in a measure greater than had lieen expected, we may proceed to the calculation of the elements of position for all the other points determined during the expedition, being confident of incurring no serious errors. Bujongo (near Lake Isolt). — The latitude was obtained by a meridian altitude observed on the outward journey (Obs. No. 1), and the longitude \)\ two series of altitudes also on going (Obs. Nos. 2 and 3) : 19th May <5^ = 25' 44" N \ = 2" 4™ 53^- 4 E.G. » = 2 7 54-5 „ Bujongo = 0° 25' 44" N X = 2'' 7™ 53- 9 „ (Lakel-solt) „ = 3r 5S' 28" „ 319 Appendix B. Bimhye. — Latitude determined by two meridian altitudes (going and returning, Obs. Nos. 4 and 107) ; longitude by two series of altitudes (return, Obs. Xos. 108 and 109). 20th May = 0' 31' 56" N. 10th August „ = 31 57 „ 11th „ \ = 2^7™ 26^-1 E.G. 11th ,. „ = 2 7 26-4 „ Bimbye = 0° 31' 56" N. ... \ = 2'^ 7'" 26'- 3 „ ,, = 31° 51' 34" „ KijemuJa. — Latitude determined hy a meridian altitude (return, Obs. No. 106), the longitude being estimated at 2'' 6'" E.G. Kijemula. — 9th August = 0° 35' 55" X. Muduina. — Latitude obtained by a meridian altitude (going, Ol)s. Xo. 5), and longitude h\ two series of altitudes (going, Obs. Nos. 6 and 7) : 23rd May = 36' 19 " N. ... X= 2'^ 5"" 40^- 3 E.G. „= 2 5 40-9 „ Muduma = 0° 36' 19" N. ... \= 2 5 40-6 „ „= 3r 25'9" Kasiba. — Position determined on the return : Latitude, l)y a meridian altitude (Obs. No. 103); longitude by two series of altitudes (Obs. Nos. 104 and 105) : 8th August 8th „ = 0° 40' 34" N. . . . \ = 2'' 5"" 53^- 2 „ = 2 5 50 • 8 . . . \ = 2'' 5'" 52*- ,, = 31° 28' 0" E.G, Kasiba = 0° 40' 34" N. 55 Lu-aiinituku:a. — Latitude obtained by two meridian altitudes, one going the other returning (Obs. Nos. 8 and 102); longitude by a series of altitudes going (Obs. No. 9) : 24th May = 0° 31' 4" X. ... \ = 2" 5"^ 1 6^- 5 E.G. 7th August „ = 30 27 „ Lwamiuukuza = 0° 30' 45" X. ... A = 2" 5"" 16«- 5 „ „ = 3ri9'7" 320 I. — Astronomic Observations. Kniho — Latitude determined by a eircummeridiau altitude going and four returning (Obs. Nos. 18, 91, 92, 93, and 94); longitude results from two series of altitiides on return (01 )S. Nos. 95 and 96) : 27th May = 0° 29' 56" N. 2nd August „-0 30 36 „ ... \ = 2'' 3'" 7^- 8 E.G. 2nd „ ,,=-^0 30 09 „ ... „-2 3 7-9 „ 2nd „ „ = 29 26 „ 2nd „ „=0 30 U „ Kaibo = 0° 30' 4" N . ... \ = 2'' .3" 7^- 9 E.G. ,, = 30 46' 58" ., IhdUi. — Using the latitude estimated at = 0' 39' 30", the longitude is obtained l»y two series of altitudes observed on the return (Obs. Nos. 89 and 90) : 1st August \ = 2''2"34^-3 E.G. 1st „ , = 2 2 .34-8 „ Butiti A=2'^ 2-" 37^-5 ,, = 30' 38' 37" Bmvona. — With the approximate value .\ = 2'' 1"^ 17* East Greenwich, the latitude is calculated liy a meridiaii altitude observed on going (Olts. Xo. 24) : 1st June. — Duwona 0=0' 33' 25" X. Butanuha. — Latitude determined on the return liy a meridian altitude (Obs. Xo. 70) ; and longitude by two series of altitudes (Obs. X"os. 71 and 72) : :0th July = 0° 26' 33" X. . .. \ = 2»^ 1" 4^-1 E.G :Oth „ „ = 2 1 4-6 '» Butanuka = 0° 26' 33" X. ., \ = 2'^ jm ^s.j^ ,, = 30= 16' 6" )j Bihunga. — Longitude obtained by two series of altitudes on going, using 0=0' 20' 20" X. obtained from the maps (Obs. Xos. 30 and 31) : 4th June A = 2'' O"' 27*-0 E.G. = 20 27-2 XaMtavxi. — Obtaining from the maps the latitude = 20' 20 " X., the longitude was had l)y a single series of altitudes at the artificial horizon without roof (Obs. Xo. 61) : Xakitawa A = 2^ 0'" 19^-6 E.G. „ = 30' 4' 54" 321 Y Appendix B. Summary of the geographical positions olitaiuetl l)y astronomic observations taken during the outward and retuin journey between Entebbe and Bujongolo. Geographic xl Position. Phices. Latitude North. Longitude E.G. Bujongo (Lake Isolt) 25 44 31 t 58 28 Bimliye 31 56 31 51 34 Kijeninla 35 55 Mudunia 36 19 31 25 9 Kasiba 40 34 31 28 Lwamutuku 30 45 31 19 7 Kichiomi 31 20 31 6 40 Muyongo 30 41 30 58 54 Kail)o 30 4 30 46 58 Butiti 30 38 37 Fort Portal 39 28 30 23 7 Duwona 33 25 Butanuka 36 33 30 16 6 Kasongo 30 15 9 Ibaiida 19 59 30 10 48 Bihunga 30 6 46 Nakitawa 30 4 54 Bujongolo 20 23 30 1 34 322 EEGISTER OF THE ASTE GNOMIC OBSERVATIONS. 323 Appendix B. REGISTER OF THE Civil Date, 190B. Observer. Place. Latitude JS. LoEgitude E.G. 2 d ■3 o =* J o O ^ Barona. i^ 13 mm. •o 2 c -r. ""3 .S« 1- 19th May 20th May 23rJ Mav 2tth ilay 25th Mav 26th Mav 1 n.R.H. 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 Bujongo (nr.Lake Isolt) Bimbye .. Muduiua 25 44 36 19 Lwamutu- kuza Kichiomi Muyongo Wonyongo 30 45 31 20 30 41 h. m. 8. 2 7 54 2 7 26 2 5 41 663-9 661-0 666-8 658 -0 654 -5 26 -0 31 -0 OA 24-0 i 29-0 26 -0 28 -0 22 -0 23 -5 23 2 5 16 2 4 27 3 56 657-3 656 653 -55 652 658-0 „ 657 -0 ! 22-0 24-5 OAA OAv OA OA OAa OAv 29 OA 22 -0 i 22 -0 OA A 28-0 24-5 24 -0 24 -0 25-0 25-0 27-0 25-0 OA OAA OA OAa OAv 324 I. — Astronomic Observations. ASTEOXOMIC OBSERVATIONS. Conditions under whicli the Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. O 4> >^ o X) O Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Sun PS 141 fi 20 Sun to W Sun O to W Sun O PS Sun O p.S Sun lo W Sun lo W Sun PS Sun O to W Sun O PS Sun O to AV Sun O. Cir- cumm. 53 52 40 52 20 52 51 40 51 20 140 52 30 139 47 20 50 20 50 49 40 49 20 49 4S 40 139 14 20 43 20 43 42 40 13S 50 20 52 51 40 138 28 40 I 138 25 40 SunOtoW 44 43 40 43 20 Sun O to W 43 42 40 I 42 + 1 + 1 20 + 1 20 + 1 20 + 1 40 + 1 45 + ] 45 + 1 + 1 + 2 + 1 + 1 50 + 2 10 + 2 10 h. m. 8. 10 38 31 -0 10 40 36 -0 41 22-5 42 7 10 46 31 -0 47 17 -0 47 58 -5 10 48 42 -0 49 24 -5 50 8-0 11 1 57-0 2 48-0 3 18 10 43 59 44 43 16 33 25 16 40 30 -0 11 1 48-5 2 33 3 18-0 11 4 00-0 4 43-0 5 29-0 b. m. s. + 3 16 19-7 + 3 16 ]9-7 + 3 16 11-2 + 3 16 11 -2 + 3 16 9 i +3 16 6-9 1 I +3 16 5-2 i 1 +3 16 5-2 1 +3 16 4-8 1 +3 16 4-8 Results. (^ = 0°25'44"N. ]i. m. s. A = 2 7 53-4E.a. b. m. s. A = 2 7 54 -5 E.G. (|) = 0°31'56"]Sr. <^ = 0°36'19" N. b. m. s. \ = 2 5 40-3 E.a. b. m. s. A = 2 5 40-9 E.G. (p = 0°Sl' 4"N. Ii. m. s. A =2 5 16-5 E.G. ^ = 0°30'47" N. b. m. 8. A = 2 4 27-3 E.G. ^ = 0'30'51"N. <^ = 0°30'30"N. li. m. 8. A = 2 3 36-5 E.G. b. m. s. A = 2 3 55-8 E.G. 325 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. o o 1 Observer. Place. Latitude N. Longitude E.G-. Barom. mm. Therm om. an- nexed (Celsius). Temp, of tlie Air (Celsius). 5 c 3 o •Is 1 o , ,/ li. m. s. o o 27th May 16 H.R.H. Kaibo 2 3 8 652 24-0 23-6 OA 31st May 17 Fort 39 28 640-0 22-0 21 OA A Portal i> 18 - » » )> " " OA V •J 19 " " >) i» " >> OAa •» 20 '• >> " » •' >• OAv •1 21 .. .. 2 1 32 641-0 22-0 21-0 OA » 22 ., )> » )• >i „ )> >» 23 •' " >» » » » )> Ist June 24 ., Duwona 2 1 17 636 -4 24-0 24-0 OA 2nd June 25 Kazongo 21 30 649-0 26-0 27 OAA )> 26 " " )> )) >' OAv 3rd June 27 „ Ibanda 2 43 652-8 26-5 25-5 OA >> 28 u » 19 59 650-0 25-0 23-0 OAA » 29 1> >i >< i » )> OAv 326 I. — Astronomic Observations. \ = 2 m. s. 1 311 E.G. Sun to E 60 9 60 18 20 61 14 20 + 2 20 2 50 22 -0 50 -44-0 52 47 -0 1 + 3 15 54-8 1 ^'■ ^A = 2 m. s. 1 34 -7 E.G. Sun Cir- 134 31 40 + 1 6 8 50-0 1 + 3 15 55 (p = 0- 38' 45" N. cunini. )> 134 54 20 + 1 6 11 1 >>

= 0° 33' 25" X. Sun to W 42 20 42 3 40 41 51 20 + 1 20 11 8 35 9 12 9 38 1 + 3 15 49-9 !-'■ 111. s. 1 -8 E G. Sun to W 41 28 20 41 18 41 5l 40 + 1 20 11 10 29 -0 10 52 -0 11 51 1 + 3 15 49 -9 U = 2 m. s 10-4 E.G. Sun PS 135 39 20 + 1 30 <|> = 0' 19' 26" X. Sun to W 44 43 40 43 20 + 1 30 11 5 16 6 10 6 44 1 + 3 15 47-8 I"- ni. ?. 44 -0 E.G. Sun to W 43 42 40 42 20 + 1 30 11 7 30 8 12 8 56 ^ + 3 15 47 7 I"-- m. s. 43 1 E.G. 327 Appendix B. Civil ])ate, 1906. ;< Observer. Place. Latilude N. Longitude E.G. •< Barora. O ;i3 mm. o O 3 c-2 ^"5 .2=1 gs Sid 1-^ 4th June 11th June 30 31 32 33 31. 35 36 37 38 28th June 39 ITtli June 27th June H.R.H. Com. Cagni Bihunga Bujougolo 20 23 O / // 20 20 40 20 23 h. m. 8. 611-0 488-4 2 6 48S-3 489-2 490-0 o o 20-0 20-0 6 ji 4-0 jj >> » 5-0 5-0 5-0 6-0 7-0 6-8 1 OAA CAv OAa OAv OAa OAv OA OAv OAA OAv 328 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. ^ « ' Absolute Hour of the i <= 2 i Correction of Chronometer. ^ O the Chronometer. Results. Sun to W Sun to W Sun to W Sun O to W Sun to W Sun to W Sun PS Sun 0. to E Sun to E Sun O loE Sun to E 47 20 47 46 40 46 20 46 45 40 34 21 34 38 40 34 TiQ 35 14 39 35 38 20 36 9 36 22 40 36 35 40 36 48 37 4 10 43 5 20 43 17 20 43 30 40 43 47 43 56 20 44 26 44 38 40 45 .45 21 45 41 50 45 58 40 46 22 + .50 + 50 P3 33 20 +1 25 63 14 40 62 50 20 62 19 40 +1 25 62 8 40 61 54 40 60 +1 25 59 40 59 20 +1 25 59 133 22 23 +2 20 + 3 40 + 3 40 + 3 20 + 3 20 h. m. s. 10 58 22 £9 6 59 49 11 34 1 18 2 2 10 23 26 24 9 25 4 10 2Q 11 26 39 27 7 10 31 30 32 14 10 33 33 45 2 2 3 4 4 5 2 6 36 7 6 7 33 8 8 37 2 22 6 22 33 23 3 23 38 24 2 25 5 25 33 26 18 27 4 27 50 28 2^ 29 20 li. ni. 8. + 3 15 45-7 + 3 15 45 -7 h. m. 8. ■ A = 2 27 E.G h. m. s. A = 2 27-2 E.G. li. in. s. C,,„= +5 15 39-1 h. m. s. Q„n= +5 15 39 1 h. m. s. Cc;;;= +5 15 35 5 h. m. s. Q,„n= +5 15 34-6 ^ = 0^9' 50" K h. m. s. ■ Qtm = + 5 15 33-2 I h. m. s. \-Q„n= +5 15 31-9 1 h. m. s 1 + 5 15 29 •9 1 J 1 li. m. |>c,„,= + 5 15 32 •0 329 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. Observer. Place. Latitude Longitude E.G. Barom. 2 d 'Z fl'^ ) 330 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which tlie Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. j^ _2 Absolute « S Correction of V, o the ,0 o Chronometer. Results. Sun 0. to E Sun O to E Sun PS Sun O Cir- cumm. Sun O Cir- cumm. Sun 0. to E Sun 0. to E Sun 7) Cir- cumm. Sun -Q Cir- cumm. Sun J) Cir- cumm. Sun 0^ Cir- cumm. Sun -Q Cir- cumm. o / // I in 62 -46 40 +1 o2 63 3 40 63 17 63 36 63 57 64 37 + 1 52 64 53 65 17 40 65 36 65 47 I 136 17 40 ' + 1 135 9 40 +1 135 22 20 ! +1 87 +1 50 87 20 87 40 89 49 90 90 20 136 8 40 + 1 f.O + 1 50 136 42 +1 50 ] 36 46 +1 oO 136 43 + 1 50 136 42 20 +1 50 Sun Cir- ' 1 36 41 +1 50 cumm. li. m. s. 3 6 12 6 50-0 7 19 8 3-0 8 50-5 3 10 19 -5 10 53 -5 11 52 -0 12 28 12 58 -0 6 39 5-0 6 44 24-0 3 49 42 50 26 51 140 3 55 58-0 56 44-0 57 31 -3 6 34 14 -5 6 44 34-5 6 51 29-0 6 53 38-5 6 54 12 6 54 44 -5 h. m. + 3 13 20 -0 + 3 15 26 I h. ni. s. |>C,,;,= +5 15 26 I h. m. .<. C,„,= +5 15 29-4 4) = 0° 20' 55" N. (|) = 0' 20' OL"N. <^ = 0^ 19' 43" N. h. m. s. C„n= +5 15 33-0 h. m. s. Q,„„ = + 5 la 32-3 (|) = 0' 21' 12" X. <|) = 0° 20' 58" X. c^^O'" 21' 13" X. (^ = 0° 20' 43" X. (^ = 0° 20' 46" X. <^ = 0" 20' 32" X. 331 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. "d Obsorvcr. Place. Latitude N. Longitude K.a. Barom. mm. Si ® d c^ -*) ".2 o -? •:^ :5W ip. of elsius) ^-3 .11 i S -— c sR ^®A. = 2 42-5 E.G. 333 Appendix B. Civil Dale, ^ 1906. .5 Observer. Place. Latitude N. Longitude E.G. Barom. lum. a2. o _^ P £ O 2 ?^ a. N— .' Eh 53 O 17th July 18th Julv 19tli Julv 20th Julv 21st Julv 22nd Julv 23rd July 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 Com. Cagni HR.H. I band a 21 til Jul J 80 Buliinuka Fort Portal 19 59 26 33 39 28 39 28 h. m. s. 2 43 2 14 651 -6 652 650 -95 649 -45 645-0 644 -05 2 1 32 638-6 641-0 636-0 o o 20-0 29-0 OA 23-0 :7-0 OA 25 27-0 OA 24-0 23-0 OA A OA V 24 24 OA 24-0 24-0 OA A OA V 21-0 21-0 >> OA A OA A 19 20-0 OA 14 12-8 OA A OA V 641 7 17-5 17 OA A OA V 640 1 18-0 16-5 OA A 334 1. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions •andcr wliich tlie As^ter was observed. Instrn mental Hei"lit. 'Instrument of iCorrection. Sun O PS Suu PS Sun PS Sun M to W Sun O to \V Sun rS Sun to W Sim to W Sun O to W Sun to W Sun PS Sun O to E SunOtj E Sun 0. to E Sun Ota E Sun () to E 137 27 137 47 30 138 7 40 55 40 52 20 139 46 51 22 40 51 7 40 50 50 20 50 35 40 50 24 50 3 54 11 40 53 43 53 52 40 53 7 20 52 46 40 47 39 40 140 57 20 49 36 40 49 53 20 50 4 20 50 26 50 38 40 50 51 20 49 20 49 40 50 r.0 20 50 40 51 55 40 56 56 20 + 2 55 + 1 30 + 1 37-5 + 1 50 + 1 50 + 1 30 + 2 10 + 2 10 + 1 20 + 1 20 + 2 20 + 1 20 + 1 20 + 1 30 + 1 30 + 1 50 Ilonr of tlie Clironometer. 10 49 20 -8 10 56 43-0 10 58 52 -0 10 59 25 11 1-5 11 34 59-5 1 44-5 10 52 54-5 53 55 54 32 55 13 10 55 57 -5 11 7 40 2 35 44 36 20 36 44 2 37 32 3S 38 26 2 35 5 35 44 36 26 2 37 11 37 58 38 36 2 48 35 49 19 £,0 Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. h. ni. s. 1 . +3 15 18-8 1 + 3 15 18 -8 1 +3 15 17-3 1 +3 15 17-3 Eesults. • Ki = + 3 15 16 '5 ] ll. m. s. >./(:, = +3 15 18-8 J h. in. s. /c, = + 3 15 20 1 ll. m. s. Ki=3 15 22-6 335 Appendix B. Civil Date, lt»06. '^ Observer. Place. Latitude Longitude E.G. Barom. ^ S 5e S =o 2itli July 81 271 h Jul J 82 » 83 28th July 84 ?» 85 „ 86 31st July 87 >> 88 1st August 89 " 90 2nd August 91 •' 92 •' 93 •• 9t 1 H.R.n. Fort Portal Butiti Kaibo ° ' " h. ni. s. 39 28 2 1 32 640-1 18 16 -5 OA V 39 28 39 30 635 -0 17 I 16 OA A „ OA V 636-0 635 -0 636-0 645-7 2 3 8 652 -0 16 -0 : 14 -0 OA A OA V 24 23 OA- 15 -6 15 -6 OA A „ OAv 19 -0 18 -0 OA A OAv 24 24 OA- Tlie Cliroiiometer 336 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was observed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of the Chronometer. o s S u s a< o ^ u is Absolute Correction of the Chronometer. Results. o / // / // h. m. 8. h. m. s. Sun to E 56 40 57 (» 57 20 + 1 50 2 50 46 -5 51 27-5 52 12-0 1 ] h. m. s. [•«:,= +3 15 22-6 Sun to W 62 61 40 61 20 + 50 10 19 26 20 9-0 29 58-5 1 1 h. m. 8. U, - + 3 32 57 -6* Sun to W 60 40 60 20 GO + 50 10 22 9 -5 23 2 23 46-5 1 1 h. m. s. U,= +3 32 51 Sun 0. to E 51 51 20 51 40 + 30 2 29 17 -5 20 59 -0 21 42 1 1 h. m. s. U, = + 3 32 59 o Sun to E 52 + 30 2 22 25 1 1 h. m. 8. 52 20 23 7 -5 U^=+3 32 59-9 52 40 23 51 -5 Sun PS 142 25 40 + 2 20 .... <^ = 0' 39' 40" N. Sun to W 59 49 + 1 30 10 25 2 -5 1 1 h. m. s. 59 20 25 43 -5 Uj = + 3 33 4-8 59 26 26 Sun to W 58 40 58 20 58 + 1 30 10 27 11 -5 27 52-0 28 35 1 1 h. m. s. Ui = + 3 33 4 -7 Sun to W 52 20 52 51 20 51 + 40 10 39 46 -5 40 32 41 55 -5 42 38 -0 1 + 3 33 6-5 h. m. s. ► A = 2 2 34-3 E.G. Sim to W 50 40 50 20 50 + 40 10 43 21 44 2-5 44 45 -5 1 + 3 33 6-5 ] h. m. s. Ia = 2 2 34-8 E.a. Sun Cir- 143 1 40 + 1 30 6 51 4-0 1 + 3 33 7-8 ,^=0' 30' 36" N. cumna. Sun Cir- 142 51 20 „ 6 52 10 -0 I + 3 33 7-8 .^ = 0° 30' 9"N. cumm. Sun Cir- 142 31 40 6 54 9-5 1 + 3 33 7-8 q> = 0^ 29' 26" X. cumm. Sun Cir- 142 21 >> 6 55 25 "0 1 + 3 33 7-8 ^ = O"" 30' 14" N. cumm. reinainert unregulated. 337 Appendix B. Civil Date, 11)00. o 1 g Observer. Place. Latitude Lougituile E.G. Barom. mm. Thermom. an- nexed (Celsius). Temp, of the Air (Celsius). Position Lid of the Artificial Horizon. o , „ h. m. s. 2nd August 95 H.R.H. Kaibo 30 4 651-0 23-0 23 oaa » 96 " >> " " )» OAv 6th August 91 97 98 » >> Mujongo » 30 41 657-0 25-0 25 11 OAA OAv >i 99 „ Kichiomi 2 4 27 653-0 24-0 24-0 OA " 100 " " 31 20 652-0 22 22-0 OAA " 101 " " " ') )) 11 OAv 7th August 102 Lwamutu- 2 5 16 657 -0 22-0 23-0 OA Ivuza 8tli August 103 „ Kasiba 2 5 52 658-0 23-0 23-0 OA 104 " " 40 34 657 -0 24-0 24-0 OAA 105 " >j " " )) >' OAv 9th August 106 ,, Kijemula 2 6 661-0 26 26-0 OA 10th August 107 M Bimbye 2 7 26 662-0 27 -0 26 OA lllb August 108 " 31 56 664 26 26-5 OAA >> 109 '» )> )> " II » OAv The luiglits luiuUcil with an asterisk were taken with the Magiiaglii ciiele and 33S I- — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was observed. [ustrumental Height. ' [nstruiiient 1 ^^ . ! Correction. Hour of the Clironometer. Sun O to W. 51 20 51 I 50 40 Sun toW. 50 20 i 50 i 49 49 Sun to W. 20 58 20 20 37 40 20 21 40 Sun to W. : 44 43 40 43 20 Sun PS Sun O to W Sun to W 1 48 6 0* 54 53 40 53 20 53 00 52 40 52 20 Sun O PS ! 148 30 45* Sun O PS 1^8 55 45* Sun O toW Sun to W 51 50 40 50 20 50 49 40 49 20 + 2 10 + 2 10 + 2 15 Sun O to VV. 19 54 40 +215 Sun 0. PS I 146 50 30* -8 Sun to W. 45 + 40 44 40 i 44 20 + 40 Sun O PS 147 13 30* +1 + 1 50 + 1 50 + 1 30 + 1 20 + 1 20 h. m. 8. 10 41 9 41 52-5 42 32 -5 10 43 16 43 58-5 44 41 '5 11 44 33-0 45 18-0 45 52 -0 11 46 48-0 10 55 36 -0 56 18-0 57 1 10 33 16 -0 33 56 34 40 -5 10 35 23 -0 36 6-5 36 49-5 10 37 49 -5 38 31 32 13 10 39 55 40 37 -0 41 17-5 o a Absohite Correction of the Clironometer. 1+3 33 8-0 + 3 33 8 -0 + 3 33 12-6 + 3 33 12-6 10 53 31 -0 1 54 12-0 54 52 -5 1 + 3 33 141 + 3 33 14-] + 3 33 17 1 + 3 33 17 1 + 3 33 21 -6 + 3 33 21 (i result Iroiii the mean ot tlie readings of tlie two reflectors of the instrument. 339 Results. h m. 8. A. = 2 3 7 -8 E.G. A = 2 3 7-9p].G. h. m. s. A = 2 3 55-4 E.G. Ii. m. s. A =2 3 54(; E.G. <^ = 0== 31' 53" N. h. m. s. A = 2 4 26 -0 E.G. li. m. 8. A = 2 4 25-9 E.G.

> 3 11 2 9 47 667 -5 22 » 24 oaa OAv 17th August 112 >j » •> " 666-0 17 24 OAA » 113 »> >» i> » » » " OAv 340 I. — Astronomic Observations. Conditions under which the Aster was oLserTed. Instrumental Height. Instrument of Correction. Hour of tlie Clironometer. IS Absolute Correction of tlie Clironometer. o / II , „ h. m. s. Sun to W 54 + 2 10 28 25 -5 1 53 40 29 6-5 53 20 29 48 Sun to W 53 + 2 10 30 30 -0 1 52 40 31 13 52 20 31 55-5 Sun to E 68 20 + 1 50 2 43 13 1 68 40 43 55 69 44 36 ■■>. Sun to E 69 20 + 1 50 2 45 20 -5 1 69 40 46 0-5 70 46 43 -5 Results. h. m. s. «:, = + 3 33 29 -9 h. m. 8. /c, = + 3 33 28 -5 1 h. m. s. I /ci = + 3 33 25 -2 "j h. m. s. Ui= +3 33 23-8 341 EEGISTER OF THE CHRONOMETERS. Appendix 11 REGISTER OF Civil Bate, 1906. Place. X 5 IS Chronom. N. 1, Lange 56509. K,. 18th April ... On board 19th „ ... Port Said 20th „ 20tli „ 20th .. 21st „ 22nd ., 28rd „ 24th „ 25th „ 26th „ 26th „ 27th ., 28th „ 28th „ 29th „ 30th „ 1st May 2nd ., 3rd „ 4th „ 4th „ Port Said (comparison with the chron. of the Police Station) Port Said On board Jibuti (comparison with the " Elphinstone") Jibuti Aden .... On board Mombasa ,, (compyrijion wiili the chron. of the Post Ofilce) 28 29 30 31 29 28 30 31 h. m. 12 30 9 30 9 30 14 6 10 10 10 9 30 9 16 7 30 9 9 10 30 9 9 9 9 30 8 5 30 h. m. 8. 9 15 6 00 6 21 h. ni. 10 46 8-5 +3 17 15 5 ^ 2 57 0-0 6 33 6 55 00 i--l-29 6 36 6 10 5 55 12 40 30-0 +3 17 8 3 59 30 5 43 5 54 7 6 30 5 26 5 53 30 5 44 6 19 4 47 2 12 8. .-1-34 + 3 16 57 344 I. — Astronomic Observations. THE CHKOXO METERS. Chronom. X. 2, Lange 56520. Chronoin. N. 3, Longines 560229. Co. Ko. C.. h. m. s. 9 7 39 oi I 5 52 38 -sl 6 13 37 li. m. s + 3 24 38 -5 2 49 36 6 25 34 6 47 30 6 28 25 6 2 19 5 47 11 3 51 34 5 34 57 5 45 49 6 58 19 5 17 41 5 45 4 5 35 26 6 10 18 4 38 6 2 3 6 + 3 25 3 '5 + 3 25 52 li. m. s. 9 32 23 5 6 17 19 6 38 15 h. m. p. + 3 0-5 l>+4-31 7 5-90 3 14 14 6 50 10 7 12 6 52 53 6 26 46 6 11 38 4 16 5 59 20 6 10 4 7 22 33 5 41 £4 6 9 15 5 59 38 6 34 30 5 2 21 2 27 16 -i 3 38 0- ;. + 7 -91 Comparisons C.-CV C1-C3. C2-C3. m. 8. m. 8. m. s. + 7 20-5 -17 23-5 -24 44 7 21 -5 17 19 24 40-5 7 23 17 15 24 38 "1 s. I-+6-46 7 23 7 26 7 30 7 34 7 41 7 49 ■17 14-5 17 10-5 17 0-7 16 53 -5 16 46 -5 16 38 -24 38-3 24 36 -5 24 30 -7 24 28 -3 24 27 -5 24 27 7 55 -5 -16 30 -24 25 -5 8 2-5 16 20-5 24 23 8 10-5 16 4 24 14-5 8 11-0 16 3-7 24 14-7 8 18-5 15 54 24 12 -5 8 25-5 15 45 24 10 -5 8 34 15 38 24 12 8 42-0 15 30 24 12 8 53-5 15 21-5 24 15 8 54 15 16-8 24 10-8 + 3 1 43 •() 345 Appendix B. Civil Date, ' Place. 1 3 1 s 9 .So 1 Chronom. N. 1, Lange 56509. 1906. 0,. Ki. ki- 4th May Mombasa h. m. 8 30 h. m. s. 5 20 30 ^ 5th , Railway 10 6 49 0-0 6th ., . „ 8 30 4 59 0-0 7th , Entebbe 9 30 6 22 8th „ ... 9 30 6 19 0-0 s. 1.-2 -762 9th ,. .. 10 30 7 14 0-0 1 10th „ 10 6 45 0-0 11th „ ... ,, 10 30 7 10 0-0 12th „ .... 12tli „ . Entebbe (Telegrapliic com- parison with Mombasa Post Office) 8 32 9 30 5 15 h. m. s. + 3 16 34-9 J 1 12th ., .... Entebbe 10 30 7 9 0-0 12tli ;, 10 30 7 11 0:0 13th -, 13 30 10 18 0-0 1-ith ,. ,, 11 7 40 0-0 16th ,, ... En route (Kutcnde) 10 6 44 17th , ,, (Bweya) 29-2 9 30 6 16 0-0 IStli „ ., (Mitiana) 28-7 10 6 31 0-0 19th ,. (Biijongolo) 30-7 9 30 6 10 30-0 20tli „ „ (Bimbye).... 27-7 9 30 6 26 21st ,. . ,, (Kijeniula) 25-7 13 30 10 15 30-0 22nfl .. ( Madrid u) 28-2 10 6 55 23 id ,. ,, (Muduma) 23-2 10 30 7 1 30-0 1 241 h .. ,, (Lwamutukuz ■) ... 28-7 10 30 7 2 30 -0 }. -2 123 2oth ,, (Kichiomi) 24-2 10 6 47 26th „ ,, (Muyongo) 26-7 10 6 55 27th „ „ (Kuibo) .... 23 -3 10 6 50 0-0 346 I . — Astronomic Observations. Chronoui. N. 2, Lange 56520. Chronoin. X. 3, Longines 560229. k... K.. Ci-Co. Comparisons. C.-Cj. I c,-c. h. m. s. 5 11 35 6 40 4 49 58 -5 6 12 53 6 9 49 •() 7 4 43 -5 6 35 37 -5 7 31 -5 h. in. s. 5 35 43 7 4 6 5 13 58 6 36 53 ]i. ni. s. + 3 26 9 . .^ , -,. 6 33 48 }> +2 -120 7 28 43 6 59 38 7 24 31 5 29 25 — 6 19 4 + 8 55 -15 13 9 15 6-5 7 1 25 -5 10 8 20-5 7 30 16 -0 6 33 56 6 5 47 '5 6 20 38 -5 5 59 59 -5 6 15 18 -5 10 4 41 6 44 6 50 21 6 51 10 6 35 31 -5 6 43 19 0, 6 38 9 I ! 7 23 23 7 25 24 10 32 18 7 54 13 6 57 55 6 29 39 6 44 30 6 24 1 6 39 26 10 28 50 7 8 10 7 14 23 s. }> + 6 -264 7 15 25 6 59 51 7 7 46 7 2 39 ll. 111. 5. 5+3 2 10 -5 }- + 3 -437 9 1-5 9 7 9 11 9 16-5 9 22-5 14 58 -8 14 53 14 48 14 43 14 38 + 9 28-5 -14 31 -5 14 25 -3 ■24 8 24 6-5 £4 0-3 24 23 59 23 59 -5 24 -5 •24 (»0 + 9 34-5 9 39-5 j 9 44 10 4 -0 10 12-5 10 21 -5 10 30-5 10 41 -5 10 49 11 11 9 j. + 5 087 11 20 11 28-5 11 41 II 51 •(• -14 23-5 14 24 -23 58 '5 14 18 23 57 5 14 13 -5 23 57 5 13 55 -5 23 59-5 13 39 -5 23 52-0 13 30 -5 23 52(i 13 31 24 1-5 13 26 -5 24 8u 13 20-0 24 9 13 10 24 1(> •(> 12 53 -5 24 2-5 12 55 24 15 K 12 51 24 19 •.-. 12 46 21 27 ll 12 39 24 30 347 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. Place. ^ ■^ 3 S3 ? Mc 9i a, a g.s v p< H •< Chronom. X. 1, Lange 56509. c.. K,. k,. 28th May . En route (Butiti) ... o . 22-2 h. m. 11 h. m. 7 39 s. 29th „ ... ( Fort Portal) 19-7 14 30 11 13 0-0 30th „ ., >» . . 21 -2 12 30 9 24 3l8t „ „ ... 20-7 10 30 7 8 1st June .... ,, (Duwoiiii) .. i 23 -7 10 6 58 2nd „ . ,, (Kasongo) .... 26-7 11 30 8 27 3rd „ . ,, (Ibanda) .... . 25-2 10 30 7 11 0-0 4th „ .... ,, (Biluinga) . 20-7 12 30 9 26 5th „ „ (Jsakitawa) ....| J3-7 10 6 47 11th „ .... Bujoiigolo 5-9 12 8 31 11th „ . 13 30 10 29 2 12th „ ... . 4-9 10 6 56 14th „ .... ,, .. 4-9 14 10 43 16th „ .... ,, 5-9 7 30 4 10 18tli .„ .. ... 4-9 8 30 5 24 0-0 24th „ ... „ ... 4-9 8 30 5 20 30 25th „ .... .... 5 -2 9 30 6 21 26th „ .... . 4-7 10 30 7 6 27th „ ... »• — . 6 ■-) 10 6 55 20-0 28th „ ... .... 4-7 10 6 51 29»h „ .. ....1 4-7 6 30 3 9 34 29th „ ... » 1 10 30 7 8 00 30th „ . 4-7 11 7 48 1st July ... ,. 4;{ 10 6 35 2nd „ ,, GO 10 6 50 0-0 5th >i 4-5 10 3(1 7 26 0-.. li. in. s. I + 3 15 30-8 ^ j» -0-509 + 3 15 21 -8 \- +0-471 • Taking the con-.j.ariscns (it June lltli to lie wrong, we are 348 I. — Astronomic Observations. Chronoiii. X. 2, Lange 56520. Chronoiii. X. 3, Longines 560229. C. k,. C3. Comparisons Ci — Ca- Ci — C3. C0-C3. h. m. 7 27 8. 0-5 11 48 9 11 34 6 55 28-0 6 45 17 8 14 8() 6 57 58 9 12 47-5 6 33 37 8 17 9 h. m. 8 + 3 29 23 6 42 7-0 10 2d 5-5 3 56 8-0 5 10 17-0 5 6 54 "5 6 7 30 6 52 32-5 6 42 7 6 37 40 + 3 28 39 6 54 43 7 3t 44-5 6 21 47 -5 6 36 53 -5 7 13 14 h. m. s. 7 51 3:i 11 25 16 9 36 2 7 19 55 -5 7 9 40-5 8 38 30 7 22 22 9 37 13 6 58 -0 8 41 11 J 1 li + 3 7 6 42 -0 10 53 24 4 20 20-5 5 34 19 -5 s. J>-2-611 5 30 4-U 6 30 34 -5 7 15 22 7 4 54 -5 7 17 -5 J 7 17 3-5 7 56 45 -5 + 3 6 43 45 -5 G 58 2-0 7 34 37 m. s. ni. 8. ni. s. 11 59 -5 12 33 24 32-5 12 12 12 16 24 28 12 26 12 2 24 28 12 32 11 55 5 24 27 -5 12 43 -0 11 40-5 24 23 -5 12 52 -0 11 30 24 22 13 2 11 22 24 24 13 12-5 11 13 24 25 -5 13 23 11 24 23 p * ■j P m. s. 4 48-3 6 15-9 "1 + 13 £3-0 -10 42 -24 35 13 54 '5 10 24-0 24 18 -5 13 52 lit 20-5 24 12 -5 13 43 10 19-5 24 2 -5 J. +5 -197 13 35-5 9 34 23 9-5 13 30-0 9 34-5 23 4 -5 13 27 "5 9 22 22 49-5 13 23-0 9 24-5 22 47 -5 13 20-0 9 17-5 22 37 -5 J 17-0 9 3-5 13 22 20 -5 13 15 "5 8 45-5 22 1 -5 13 12 -5 8 45-5 21 58-0 13 6-5 8 2 21 8-5 12 46 -0 8 37 21 230 referred to those of the 12tli for the values K.„ K3 and k.j, ks. 349 Appendix B. Civil Date, 1906. Phue. X = Clironom. N. 1, Lange 56509. c,. Ki. K lltli -Tulv .. Bujongolo 13tli ,. ... „ (en route) 2Ut ,, Fort Portal 24th „ ,. ° I li. 111. li. 111. s. h. m. s. ...l 5-9 8 4 46 2S-5 I ... I 5-9 I 6 2 51 6-0 +:J 15 28 4 14 10 57 49 +3 15 15 8 14 -2 6 30 2 13 -1-521 27th July — Through a great delay in regulating 27tli J uly .. Fort Portal .... 28tli „ .. 30th ,, „ 31st „ „ 2nd August Kaibo 6th Kichiomi 16th Bimbye 16th Entebbe 22nd 26th Mombasa (com the chronometer of the Post Office) 28tli h. in. h. m. s. 14 10 32 li. ui. s. 9 ' 5 40 10 6 29 -0 14 10 20 48 +3 33 5 "0 1 13 30 9 46 I 1.-) 30 11 45 1 10 6 40 1 14 +3 33 29-2 10 6 37 0-0 ! 7 30 4 4 +3 33 19-0 14 30 10 45 -0 y+i -510 - 1 045 350 I. — Astronomic Observations. Chronom. X. 2, Lange 56520. Chronom. N. 3. Longines 560229. Co. Conipurisons K. k.,. C.. h. m. s. ! 7 34 1 59 50 h. in. s. 2 19 40 -5 c,-a. C,-CV C.-C,. I ni. s. 111. 12 28-0 13 10 6 40-5 ! 19 50-5 the chronometers they raried, and No. 2 stopped. h. ni. s. 8 29 43 h. m. s. lu 17 47 -5 h.m. s. h. 111. s. li. m. s. + 2 2 17 -U +0 14 12-5-1 48 45 3 37 43 -5 5 25 55 2 2 16-5 14 50 1 48 11-5 4 26 39 -5 6 15 14-0 2 2 20 -5 13 46 1 48 34-5 7 43 17 -5 9 32 14 2 2 42 -5 13 46 1 48 56-5 9 41 50 2 3 10-0 4 36 13 2 3 47 4 31 43 + 2 5 17-0 8 39 5-5 2 5 550 3.51 II.— GEODETIC OBSERVATIONS. By p. CAMPIGLI. Taking as starting point a site near Bujongolo, the height of which above sea-level was known from l)arometric readings, at that point, which for shortness will henceforth be simply called Bujongolo, was constructed an astronomic station, the latitude of which was determined by meridian and circurameridian zenithal observations of the sun, and the longitude by means of lunar occultations of stars. Then in the neighbourhood of Bujongolo a base was chosen and measui'ed between the points A and D {^ee the annexed diagram of the triangulation.) The distance was obtained eithei' directly by fixing stations with the tachometer at the two extremes A and IJ, or by measuring with the meti'ic 353 2 A Appendix B. tape measure and stadioineter, the distances intercepted between the points B c, c c\ c' (I, d A, from which were had the following results : — Distances Vertical Angle. Between the points. Measured with the tape line. Measured with the Studio- meter. Segments. £ c c B r.G -135 60-00 61 -o 15° 10' 17 32 55 S'J 55-02 1 I 55-905 B A 320-0 18 02 289 -33 c' c' d 67 -620 108-325 75-0 1180 21 20 22 22 65 -07 100 -91 1 165 -98 >166-375 c d 190-5 20 40 166 -77 . d A A d 62 -700 66-5 66-0 7 06 7 12 65-48 64 -99 I 65 -235 288 -45 A B 320-0 18 18 Totj il length 287 -515 287 -51 to be adopted, metres 288 -43 (947 ft.) At the extreme west point B of the base, the height of which over Bujongolo was also measured with the barometer and found to be 104 metres, solar obserA-ations enabled the expedition to determine the azimuth of one of the points constituting the apexes (jf the triangles of the geodetic network, which thus became orientated. The point chosen for the azimuth was the Cagni Peak, distant 1882-9 metres (5,980 feet), and the following results were obtained : — Mean of four values on the right Circle 80° 51'-29. Mean of four values on the left Circle 80° 51'- 09. Mean A-aluc of the azimuth of Cagni Peak fioni Point V) ..80° 5r-19. With the mean value of the l)ase of 288-4.3 metres (945 feet), and solving the two triangles ]'> A Cagni Peak and />' A Edward Peak, we obtained from two parts the value of the side Cagni Peak — Edward Peak, which gave 288;?-2 metres (9,456 feet). 354 1 o MAP OF ANGLES MEASURED in the Ruwenzori Chain Scaleli.O.OOOorl.58 inches -1 mile TI. — Geodetic Observations. To this side were connected ;dl the points, l)UJ()n^i;ol() inchidt'd, which foi-nied the apexes of the netwoik in whicli was comprised all tlie sui'veyed section of the Kuwenzori JIange. At all these points a station was made l»y measuring l»oth the vertical and the horizontal angles by means of a prismatic compass from F. Barker and Son, London, No. 1926, except oidy for the two extreme points. 7 and />' of the base, where was employed the tachometer, and for the Cagni Peak, at which the oliservations were carried out with a small field theodolite. In the tabulated Summary A are indicated all the triangles dealt with, as well as the value of the observed angles and that of the calculated sides. The Simimary B contains the orthogonal co-ordinates of all the points referred to the extreme west of the base B. In the Summary C are lirought together the heights of some points which are referred to Bujongolo, and were ol)tained l)y means of geodetic o]»ser\ations. Lastly, Summary D is an epitome of the heights that were adopted for all the points indicated on the maps, as well as the method l)y which said numbers were deducted. 355 2 A 2 Appendix B. Summary A. LIST OF THE TRIANGLES. Name of the Points. Angles Sides, metres. Name of the Points, Angles. Sides, metres. "NVollastou Edwaixl . . . Cagni Margherita Edward . . . "Wollastoii Vittoi'io Enianuele Edward WoUaston Margherita Wollastoii Vittorio Emauuele lolaiida ... Vittorio Enianuele Wollaston Bottego . . . Edward ... Wollaston Umberto ... Cagni Eottego . . . Alexandra Wollaston Vittorio Enianuele Margherita (X.Pk.)j Alexandra Vittorio iMnaimele i Kraepelin ...' Vittorio Einaimele ^ Bottego ... Elena Edward ... Vittorio Emanuele Savoia Vittorio Emanuele Marghei'ita Sella Cagni Edward ... Grauer Pass Vittorio Enianuele Edward ... 157 37 21 07 23 16 21 30 109 30 49 00 24 40 68 40 86 40 59 00 57 30 83 30 35 00 108 00 37 00 10 00 48 00 122 00 79 07 15 37-5 85 15-5 58 30 40 30 81 00 98 00 74 00 8 00 85 30 24 30 70 00 90 30 54 00 35 30 53 20 28 30 98 10 44 16 44 14 91 30 107 30 20 00 52 30 2883 1485 1628 1628 4187 3352 1628 3634 3894 3634 2581 4212 3634 6025 3813 1628 6968 7951 7429 2037 7539 3634 2768 4209 2768 2687 389 4521 18,S0 4262 3S94 3151 2261 2579 1534 3183 2883 2881 4129 3894 1396 3240 Johnston Vittorio Eman Edward Knol) ... B Wollaston Stuhlinann Margherita Wollaston F B Wollaston Moore Edward Cagni . . . Weismann Stairs . . . Edward Portal, North lolanda Wollaston Semper Edwaid Wollaston N B Freshfield Camp II Edward Savoia Moeliius Edward Vittorio Eman Bujongolo Cagni . . . ]vh\'ard I'ortal, South lolanda Wollaston 133 00 41 00 ! 6 00 73 33-8 51 00-8 56 25-4 102 06-2 58 53-8 19 00-0 49 53-0 27 46-7 102 20-3 117 59 31 30 30 31 48 58-0 97 49-5 33 12-5 71 12-5 66 56-0 41 50-5 104 00 65 00 11 00 1104 10-1 j 42 08-2 ^ 33 41-7 39 00 105 00 ! 36 00 i 87 30 51 30 i 41 00 83 00 65 30 31 29 70 12 49 56 59 51 3894 3493 556 2098 1709 1832 4200 3678 1398 2098 1278 2680 2883 1705 1657 2578 3386 1872 6025 5856 4247 1628 1520 320 1527 1057 874 1958 3005 1829 3894 3051 2557 2883 2643 1517 6025 4901 5538 356 11. — Geodetic Observations. SUMMAIIY 15. ORTHOGONAL CO-ORDINATES OF THE POINTS, REFERRED TO /; (EXTREME WEST BASE). Name of tlie Points. y B — Extreme west base A — Extreme east base Cagni Echvard Wollaston Vittorio Eiuanucle ... Margherita ... lolanda Umberto Alexandra ... Kraepelin Elena Savoia Grauer Pass ... Stuhlmann ... F Moore Weismann ... Stairs Roccati Bottego Margherita, North Peak Knol) Portal, North Portal, South Camp II E Johnston Semper Sella Bujongolo N Camp VII ... ^ Calculated Lake Kujuku \ to apex of Freshfield Pass I Pyramid + 284 -S + 1028-3 - 1854-5 - 345 - 4 - 1903-4 - 4086 - 7 + 867-7 - 1168-0 - 4187-8 - 933-9 - 3700-9 - 3462-0 - 757-2 - 2899-0 - 1622-5 - 455 - 3 - 2311-1 - 746-1 - 2805-6 + 858-5 - 4310-5 - 1594-5 4- 4360-5 + 4301-6 - 2475-0 - 3876-0 - 1532-9 - 1837-9 - 1882-9 + 421-6 - 420-5 + 561-7 - 1723-7 — 1443-5 + 45- 8 - 1505- 2 + 1458- 2 + 2069- 5 + 5352- 8 + 3978 5 + 4972 -f 8718 1 + 3789 5 + 9503 2 + 2764 7 + 2576 8 + 2322 -3 + 4716 -8 + 2133 -3 + 2347 -4 - 1897 -3 - 869 -9 + 2714 •8 + 8933 -0 + 415S -7 + 902 •5 + 5555 - 2 + 3626 •8 - 262 •5 + 3025 - 2 + 4937 •3 + 1778 •0 - 1423 - 2 + 114 - 2 - 766 -3 + 7229 ■6 + 2770 •3 _ 500 •0 357 Appendix B. Summary C. RATIOS OF THE POINTS REFEKRED TO BUJONGOLO, WHOSE HEIGHT ABOVE THE SEA IS 3,798 METRES (12,461 FEET). The ratio>< of the ]H)infs are calculated v:ith the zenith didances ofiserred at the rariovs stations, and with the sides obtained from the triangulation. Name of the Points. Zenith Angles Observed. Sides. Differences of Level. Eal ios referred to Bujongolo. Station B. Extreme west base, determined with the barometer . . Cagni Peak Edward ,, ratio emper Signal A Station A. Extreme east base, ratio Cagni Peak Edward ,, Cagni Station, mean ratio Edward . . ^Margherita A'ittori') Emanuelc I'mberto . . lolanda . . Elena Sella Wollaston !Moore E Stall's Yittorio Emanuele Station, moan ratio Margherita Savoia L'mherto . . Johnston . . Wollaston Alexandra Station, mean ratio "Vittorio Emanuelc .. Edward .. Elena Margherita Wollaston Marghorita, Is'orth Peak + 18° 47' + 22 16 + 18 27 + 11 31 + 23° 24' + 22 30 + 6° 55' 30' + 6 + 4 + 2 + 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 + + + 1 5 30 31 30 5 30 39 30 37 30 58 30 33 30 4 36 30 4 42 30 30 + 5° 0' + 1 30 - 1 30 - 5 30 -40 0' 30 1822 -9 2359 1 2680 -2 288-4 1637 -9 2563 -4 2883 5681 4837 7539 8142 4894 4129 1485 1705 5134 2961 + 30 2581 -0 3183 -6 3444 -6 5.56 -7 3(;34 -2 2768-1 3298 -4 1134-6 214 -3 4209 -8 389 -0 + 620 + 966 + 894 - 94 + 709 + 1062 + 350 + 606 + 383 + 275 + 235 + 482 + 142 + 144 + 137 + 423 + 78 + 226 + 84 - 90 - 54 - 254 - 194 - 231 - 99 + 24 - 443 + 3 104 724 1070 998 10 10 719 1072 772 1072 1328 11U4 997 957 1204 864 8^6 859 1144 8CK) 1104 1330 1188 1014 1050 850 1302 1108 1301 1203 1326 859 1305 }58 II. — Geodetic Observations. SUMM.A.KY C — continued. Name of the Points. Zenith Angles Observed. Sides. Difffrences of Level. Ratios referred to Bujongolo. "Wollaston Station, mean ratio 861 Semper . . lolaiida . . Edward .. Si airs Stuhlmann Sella Moore + 6' 30' + 1 00 + 7 30 - 1 30 - 7 00 - 1 00 1278 -8 6968 -2 1628 -2 2969 -9 3748 -8 3815 -6 299 1 + 146 + 122 + 214 - 78 - 460 - 5 1007 983 1075 783 401 861 856 lolanda Statiou, mean ratio . . .. 971 Bottego .. - 3^ 0' 961 - 50 921 Camp IV, ratio determined with the barometer . . 710 G rauer Pass 0° •• 710 Umberto Station, mean ratio .. 1005 Eraept- liu . - 0' 8' 30" 819-3 - 2 1003 Edward Station, mean ratio. . .. .. -. 1071 Vittorio Emanuele Moore VVeismann + 0°30' - 7 30 - 3 30 3894 -9 1657 -9 3386 -4 + 34 - 218 - 208 1105 853 863 359 Appendix B. 1-3 > < o H Q o ^ o O o H Q P^ P^ P^ 1—1 O Pm Pd H Ph O t/: H O O o Eh l-H H o P5 < pp H ►5^ J/2 P^ H C5 S <^ Ratios adojited and referred to. At sea-level. Ol «D t^ C5 ■* « o t- cc cc c: ~ T* CO CO c: cc c: ^5 rj c:: 1- 00 ri M IN X 1.^ — » Tj< c. QC' 30 :c lo — T* c; ■* -* CO L'? c: o '-1 -H 00 3 00 C: O 00 CO CC 1^ •>) 7^1 ri C M X -^ I^ I- CO 1^ !N C-. 1^ X -f" 00 IT ira IS a- CO 1.0 o i- lo »rr o co o ?-i co co c^ lo >r: i.o co ■* o -m oseo-Hiomciiooci^OiMCiXiocco-^^xcooo'N i-it^O'N05CO-H"ni.oinc5-*-Moccxc^-»05-^^0 Loxcvl-(C5i^xcococOlnc5XXr-l-^oxcox-^ln^-C5 -^Tf<->J0'-ieo^050xxooi>'^o cocoi-ioxocot^osrH r-)rHi-HrH rH i— li— ( i— IrHi-Hi-H i— 1 X-Mtr-co-MOS O'MCO O^'fi 1 1- C ^J C: 1- -M 1 1 1 1 1 CO 1 i-H 1 1- 1 1 ! C5 -M 1 O lOi-iCOi-iCJOl 1 1 1 lolcoli— 1 1 iCOl^Irt i-li-li— li-l^ i-Hi-li-l Mean. >-i-H-i'i^eooio-H^cO(N'*'MON»nxcocoO"Oi-H iMt^O*50t^OCOCDin05-*Oi-lOOXCCDiOO^(M 1 i> O 1-1 eo IM 05 O 00 X Xi> l-H O CO K) T-l O X C -* 1> Ci 1 1-li-li-HiH iH r-liH i-lrHr-lrH i-l a 1 o E =f-i ' -^ 1 c ■J -§ o 1 •AI dniBO 710 •.);.UH|lU£l 8001 •BpUBIOI 921 ■-Bna^a; 1303 ,i»n|,||t^iCO|,|,(M|||CO|,,|| •pjt3A\p%r o >o in o o 1 I LJl I1,-IIIIqo'oo''''co'I'x''''' •sj;tT?4g 859 •jpnn'Bmg; ouo44t^Y •uoqsBno^ 1014 1298 1188 1050 983 861 856 783 1007 401 ■TupnBxa^Y 1326 1203 859 1305 •'B4uan§at?j\[ 1302 •uiSkO 1 »^ o -N o m CI CO CO lo ci -+ 1 i i i i i i i i i | i lO-^W-NCiCiXXXt^^l 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 m -* O X o 'Mt^llllllllllOi'-^llllllilll sence of synchronous corresponding data of Entebbe, for the pressure the mean of the hours 7, 14 and 21 has l)een assumed, and from this mean the pressure at noon may, generally speaking, be taken to differ but slightly. For the temperature and the tension of aqueous vapour that of the nearest hour, that is 14, has l)een assumed. In Tal)le II have been Ijrought together the data of the observations made at Ente1)be* l)3tween 16th and 28th May. From the data supplied by the two Tables I and II were calculated the altitudes of the various stations relatively to Entebbe b}' means of the fornuila : t / 1 Z= 18400 (1,00157 + 0,00367 0) ! i 1 - 0,378 y (l+0,00259cos2X)(.+|±iij)log| where Z expresses the difference of level between the two stations. H,j the pressure reduced to 0'^ in the lower station. H the pressure reduced to 0" in the upper station. ^ = -^^^ — ^the mean l)etween the temperature /,, of the aii' in the lower station and tliat of i in the upper station. = ' '^ iy ' the mean between the vapour tension /i, in the lower station and /' that of the upper station. Hq + H X the latitude, ,: the latitude of the lower station al)ove sea-level. The headings II,„ Z^,, /j,, H, /, /, which figure above the columns in the following tallies, refer to the use of the formula for the calculation of which use has been made of the " Tal>les Meteorologiques internationales " (Paris, 1890). * According to tlie certiKciite of tlic " National Plivsical Laboratory," tlic barometer of the Entebbe Observatory lias a correction of — 0001 inch. t This formula of Kiihlmann lias been adopted without more ado as tlie most general and complete, eince a discussion on the choice of altinietric formulas, which should take account of the recent results on the law of variation of the meteorological elements in the open air and on the slopes of tlie mountains, would not be in accord witli the few available data, data which, moreover, cannot always be obtained under the best conditions. 362 GO 196 •18 59 177 •16 U 40 •0 84 275 ■60 151 495 ■41 ii;} 370 ■74 13G 446' ■20 18S 556 • •81 125 410' 11 199 652 ■ ■86 298 977' ■7.3 III. — IMeteorological, etc., Ubservaiions. The following are the results obtained* : Altitude of Bweya ... relatively to Entelibe m. 71 about 2.32-8 ft. „ Mitiana ... ,, ,, „ „ Bujougo „ Bimbye ... „ „ „ Kijenmla ... „ „ „ „ Maibubi ... „ „ „ „ Mudmnu ... „ „ „ „ Lwainutukuza ,, ,, ,, „ Kichiomi ... ,, „ ,, „ Misongo ... „ „ „ „ Kaibo ... ,, „ ,, Butiti ... „ ,, „ :. As it is almost needless to state, these altitudes have very uncertain value, either because obtained by isolated observations made at different hours, or else because to very slightly diff"erent levels correspond considerable horizontal distances, as between Entebbe and Fort Portal (about 225 kilometres = nearly 140 miles). But for this last inconvenience, greater proba1)ilities of accuracy would l)e presented l)y the determination of the altitude of Fort Portal. Here there is an observatory which has been recently foiuided, but the height of which relatively to Entebbe has not yet been determined geodetically, but was ' obtained from the ol)served data during the whole quarter, May, June, and July, 1906, so that the influence of the various sources of error may be regarded as considerably lessened. In the subjoined Table III are recorded all these data, the outcome of which was that the difference of altitude between Entebbe and Fort Portalf is .355 metres (1,170 feet). * The calculation has been omitted for Katende which, as shown by tlie pressure, stands at very nearly the same level as Entebbe. t From the comparisons made on the 30th and 31st May, and again on the 21st and 24tli July between the two Fortin barometers of the expedition and the barometer No. 2,025 (Xegretti and Zambra) of the English Observatory at Fort Portal, it appeared that tlie former gave a mean indication of 5-17 mm. = i inch (at 0°) above tliab of the latter. Since tliis difference was verified in an equal degree with the two barometers of the ex]X"dition, which kept in perfect agreement with each other at Fort Portal, as they had liefore tlie journey, it was thought reasonable to apply to all the pressures yielded by tlu- baronu'ter of the Fort Portal Observatory, the constant correction 5-17 mm. To the end of November, 1907, the correction of the Kcw Observatory had not yet been obtained for tlie Fort Portal barometer. 363 Appendix B. A result quite couforniuljle (the ditierence is less thiui liulf a metre, or 18 or 19 inches) is reached by assuming for the calculation the means of the data of Entel)be and Fort Portal for seven months of the year 1905 {^ee Tal)le lY). It was impossible to include the whole year, because no ol)servations were made at Fort Portal from May to Seistember, 1905. Hence, the Enteblje Observatory being 3,863 English feet, or 1,177 metres aljove sea-level, it follows that Fort Portal stands at about 1,532 metres (5,025 feet) above the sea. After a stay of two days at Fort Portal, the expedition stalled on 1st June from Fort Portal for Ruwenzori. In the appended Table V are given the data of the observations made at the various encampments, as in Tal)le YI the corresponding data of Fort Portal, where, at the request of H.E.H., Mr. John de Souza, Director of the Observa- tory, besides the ordinary observations for the hours 7, 14, and 21, made one also at noon for the whole time that elapsed between the departure of the expedition from, and its return to, Fort Portal. From the data of Tallies Y and YI have Ijcen calculated the following altitudes : Altitude of Duwona relatively to Fort Portal al)Out m. 5-4=^ 177-0 ft. „ Kasongo „ „ „ „ „ „ 136= 446-2 „ „ Ibanda „ ,, „ „ „ „ 458= 518-3 „ „ Eihunga „ „ „ „ „ „ 388 = 1,273-0 „ „ Xakitawa „ „ ,, „ „ „ 1,120 = 3,674-6 ,, „ Kichuchu „ „ „ „ „ „ 1,465 = 5,788-2 „ „ Buaml)a ., „ „ „ „ „ 1,986 = 6,515-8 „ On Sth .June the expedition i-eaehed Eujongolo, a place which is comprised within the Puwenzoii uplands, and as this formed the basal station and point of reference for all the measurements to be sul)sequently taken during the exjjlora- tion, the observations were here made regularly from 16th June to 12th July, under conditions far more favourable than those that would be secured while en route. The instruments were suspended from a vertical table supported by two posts, which were firmly planted in the ground at a height of about five feet above the surface, and protected from the effects of insulation and of the rain by a large awning extended above at a , the 1 - v,oio ' '/ mean of the pressures, and this factor has reference to the influence exercised by the presence of the aqueous vapour on the readings of barometric altitudes. For Bujongolo the vapour tension is known, but not for the observed places on Ruwenzori, as here no psychrometric observations were made. The neglect of the factor relating to the hiimidity might be a cause of error, to eliminate which, at least partly, a mean humidity of al)out 60 has been admitted for the stratum of the air comprised between Bujongolo and the observed station.* This humidity of 60 is certainly less than the true mean, since at Bujongolo the humidity is always very high (mean 89), and there is reason to believe that it is always consideralile in the other places too, where cloud v, foggy and rainy weather prevail. On the Tables IX, X, XI and XII are recorded the altitudes of the various other places on Kuwenzori, calculated with the previously indicated norma'. Regarding the results obtained, it may be noticed that the determinations made with the mercurial barometer were found to agree sufficiently Avell with each other whenever it was possible to make more than one determination for any given place, and they agree also with the survevs made with geodetic methods. Owing to the irregular l>ehaviour of the aneroid barometers, the measure- ments taken with these instruments present a far less degree of approximation. * To show the possible iii8uence of such a correction, reference may be made to the special case of the Margherita Peak. Here the pressure at 11 o'clock on 18th June was 414'0 mm and the temperature — 3°"3 Celsius (2G°'6 F.), whereas at Bujongolo, at 12 o'clock on the same day, the pressure was 4879 mm. and tlie temperature 5°'l Celsius (-Jl' F.), hence the mean pressure was about 451 mm. and the mean temperature 0^*9 Celsius (33' F.). Had the air been saturated at this temperature the vapour tension would have been 4'87 mm. Admitting a humidity of CO the tension falls to 2"92 mm., with which datum, and witli the mean pressure of 451, we get tlie cologarithni of tlie term of correction for the luunidity, namely : colog 1 =0-00103 1-0-378''' 1 Without taking account of tlie liuniidity. tlie height of Margherita Peak above Bujongolo was found to be 1,324 metres ; with this added it beconu's 1,327 metres, tliat is to say, we have a rise of about 0'22 per cent. Admitting a luunidity of 80 the lieight would become 1,328"5 metres, with a rise of 0-33 per cent. 367 Appendix B. In fact, ill spite of every care taken to make continual comparisons with the Fortin barometer, the term of correction did not keep constant, not only from day to day, Init even during the same day whenever the instrument got shaken or was exposed to siidden changes of altitude. Hence, to avoid errors that might even be serious, a cautious and limited use has been made of the data obtained with the aneroid. Thus, the simultaneous indications of the Foitin and the aneroid being noted, and the altitiide obtained from the former being taken as correct, the indications of the latter have served to establish differences of level, which were inconsiderable relatively to the point of comparison. When this process was completed the comparison was renewed, so that the data first obtained were brought under control. In general the reported data result from the mean of two or more determinations, and may consequently l)e I'egarded as sufficiently accurate. As to the altitudes of the places passed by the expedition on the return journey, that is, from and after the 14th July, these were all obtained by means of comparisons with the data oliserved simultaneously at Ibanda.* Then, for the sake of uniformity, they were reduced, like the previous ones, to the common level of Bujongolo. Amongst the determinati(jns made relatively to Uganda was that of lolanda Peak, the altitude of which will consequently not be so near the truth as that of the other peaks. And, besides the inconvenience of Ibanda lying still lower than Fort Fortal, there was also the trouble caused by the breaking of one of the mercurial barometers, instead of which we had to use the hypsometer, which yields a less degree of approximation in the readings. N T E. In the western districts of the Uganda Protectorate the geodetic survey has not yet Ijeen carried out, but the far-seeing Britisli Government is taking it in hand, and no doubt it will soon be an accomplished fact. Hence it might seem reasonable to refer the various altitudes of tlie Ivuwenzori group, not to Bujongolo, l)ut to Fort North Portal, the exact height of which above sea-level will soon be known. In fact, this very critical point is being seen to by Messrs. H. Y. Tegart and H. E. Maddox, who have recently published some * For the altitude of Ibanda relatively to Fort Portal -lt8 was assumed, tiiis beinc the )ean of the observations made on going and returning. 368 Til. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. valuable studies on Kuwenzori. But if the data ha^e ueveitheless been referred to Bujongolo, it was because they offered greater guarantees of accuracy, and this for the following reasons :^ First of all, the difference of altitude between Bujongolo and Fort Portal may l)e regarded as near enough, having been obtained from a considerable number of observations. On this account we may consider as partially com- pensated those sources of error which are due to atmospheric distui'l>ances, such as may have a great influence on isolated measurements, especially when dealing Avith very remote stations. Such would precisely have been the case if the data observed on Kuwenzori had been directly compared with those corresponding hour for hour with Fort Portal. But by making the comparisons with the data obtained at Bujongolo, a much nearer place, one may fairly assume a greater uniformity of atmospheric conditions. Then there is another fact Avhich shows the greater convenience of the course adopted. It is seen in the following example to which many others might be added. On 7th July, at 12 o'clock, on Edward Peak, the pressure (reduced to 0°) was 428-5 mm., and the temperature V-Q Celsius (34"-4: F.), the corresponding readings being at Bujongolo 489-16 mm. and 3 '-9 Celsius (39" F.), and at Fort Portal 638-69 mm., and 23=-3 Celsius (74° F.). Calculating from these data the difference of level between Edward Peak and Fort Portal, and then separately betw^een Edward Peak and Bujongolo, and between Bujongolo and Fort Portal, we get : — * Difference of level between Edward Peak and Fort Portal ... 3,355 metres Difference of level between Edward Peak and Bujongolo 1,074 metres Difference of level between Bujongolo and Fort Portal 2,249 „ Total difference of level between Edward Peak and Fort Portal 3,323 metres (10,900 feet) Therefore, with the direct calculation, and omitting Bujongolo, we have a difference of over 32 metres (105 feet). Such a difference arises from the fact that whereas the law of Laplace is based on the hypothesis of a static equilibriimi of the atmosphere, and of a temperature and humidity which decrease regularly with the altitude, this does not take place in the present instance. * In this estimate no account is taken of the tension of the aqueous vapour. 369 2 li Appendix B. In fact, the temperature being 23-9 Celsius (75' ¥.) at Fort Portal, and r-6 Celsius (34°-4 F.) at Edward Peak, a difference of 22°-3 Celsius (72°-6 F.), if the decrease occurred proportionately to the altitude the temperature of Bujongolo should be about 7°-2 Celsius (45° F.), whereas it is only 3°-9 Celsius (39°-7F,). This, therefore, means that the colunui of air has a lower temperature* than is assumed l)y the theory, so that to an e(|ual diflference of pressure corresponds a less difference of altitude. Lastly, in connection with determinations of this nature, it is not to be forgotten that results now well established are : — 1. That heights calculated by means of thermo-barometric observations are generally found to be greater with measurements made by day compared with those made by night. They present a considerable daily range with the maximum value shortly before the maximum daily temperature, and the minimum one or two hours before sunrise. The extent of range is influenced by the season, the local conditions, and the state of the sky. 2. That the altitudes calculated with the mean daily or monthly values of the observations are found to be too low in winter and too high in summer ; >vith the annual mean they differ little from the actual heights. * Caused probably by the great musses of iee on Ruw enz.^ri. 370 III. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. d M «1C^- -3 -= ^ ►^ M ^ CQ, S '^ ^ .5-"— c^-S.s - ^ c =^ aM«SbCS= go be GO r; ;;5 « S :S' Oy r^ -71 pi-^-^rt!- b ;:i, feC-H -g G hi? be r. S 2 3 o 53 r— ^ s ? C '^ «^ S 1 e3 S S * bo !§ SI' m w M S 371 2 B L' Appendix B. < w H 00 O CS pq H t5 O H GO pq O O O p:5 CM W EH to w 00 o o CO o o ^ o o 00 o o 1^ o 1-H 1 — 1 I-H l-H 50 l-H o I— 1 1:^ rH I— 1 o r— 1 l-H 5r> 1 — 1 1—1 CO '^ 1^ CO CO O o o CO o CO to o lO 00 t^ O t^ CO o t^ CO 00 1 — 1 00 1-H x^ O '* »o t^ CO (M ,—1 CO lO CO l-H CO >o -* o CO o lO CO o -* -+ 00 '^ -^ 00 O o lO lO o CO t— -H -+ -* o >o CO w r— 1 1 — 1 1-H ■ lO (M t- 'T' 00 (M ^ C5 CO (M crs 1 — 1 ^ i-HIMO-H— I^^Hi-Hi-Hi-Hi-Hirif— I (M (M o (-H CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CD CO CO -+I -H (M (M 00 ^ lr~ CO o ,_( X OS CO CI o CO iCi 00 t^ CO 1-H CO '00 t^ (M »o »o lO CO »o lO lO -* CO o ■-+ lO »o CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CD CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO CO >i ct :: :; :; r :; r r r - :; :; r ^ ^ ^ J3 .kS 4-> u .w CO l^ X OS O-HfMCO'+lOCOt^X CM OI IM 1^1 CM (M Ol (M Ol Ph 2- t- 00 X t- I » J - ^"-'I i J H O Ph o = « — -^ '>! _« « -!■ in .in X X - ?i 1 !>• » to TO - X X 3: 2 J I X ;:: J X S . . C: 1 TO i; =o o X I J >. = >i <■.-:-: 373 Appendix B. Table IV f:NTEBBE. FORT PORTAL. Pressure in inches. Asso- ciated therm. F. Psychrometer. Pressure in inches. Asso- ciated therm. F. Psychrometer. Months. Dry therm. F. Wet. therm. F. Dry therm. Wet therm. F. o o o o o Jamiarv . . 7 26 -281 66 8 66-3 64-8 24 -969 59 3 57^6 56 1 1. 14 •245 77-9 76-0 70 4 24 950 73 6 74-3 65 6 1, 21 •257 69 4 69 1 66-6 24 956 62-7 61 7 59 5 February.. 7 •276 67 7 66 8 64-3 24 964 59 6 58 55 1 „ 14 •236 81-3 79 1 71 -3 24 -950 76-4 76 1 64 1 ,. 21 •229 70-5 70-0 67-3 24 -954 61-7 60 7 57^7 March . . 7 •264 68^6 67-8 65 1 24 973 62 1 61^1 53 8 >. 14 •217 76-8 74-9 68 9 24 943 75-0 73 -3 65-2 21 •245 70-6 69-9 66-9 24 958 63 62-5 60 3 April 7 •299 69-4 68 5 66 24 995 62 2 CO -6 58-8 „ 14 •244 77 1 74^7 69 5 24 974 78^3 75-4 66 3 >, 21 •244 69-8 69-9 66-9 24 ^979 63 1 62-6 60 1 October . 7 •257 66 3 65 3 63 9 25 098 65 3 64-1 60 1 ,. 14 •221 79-0 76 1 09 9 25 075 72 3 69-9 62-7 „ 21 •241 69-6 69-0 66-4 24 -sea 63 5 65-2 60 NoTcmber 7 •272 65 7 65 1 63 ^9 25 067 65 9 61 9 59 5 ,, 14 •229 77^8 75 5 69-4 25 048 72-9 71-8 65 1 » 21 •247 69 5 68 9 66-6 24 -904 63 65 7 59 December 7 •262 66-4 65 4 64-2 25 025 64-1 59-7 58^4 )) • • 14 •227 78 1 75-0 69 3 25 098 75 71-9 64 9 » • • 21 •246 69 8 69 3 66 4 25 885 64 2 68 5 62 Means 26 648 71-8 70 6 67 1 24 982 66-8 65^8 60 6 Correct pressiire r edijced to O'' and in i nm... H|| = - ()64 ^28 H = 6C i7 70 Temperature in c enti grades i .... ^0 = = 21 -4 ( = ] 8^8 Vapour tens ion ii 1 mm. .. • . /o = = 15 7 /= :i LI -7 374 III. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. , — ,^ ;_ ,^ c -/, '■ "Z. ^ ^ — — :; z V ~ " ~ . tc = U) • * — — w - -:^ ^- :^ 2 ■* 1 "tk. := 4:-^ - 5 = > -= 03 g oi tc ^ ^ o tE 3 ^ » •M ^ -S >i -> i* '-^ c c ;j; si i£ = ii - .S is: -Mi ^ QQ I-:; ^O ■1^ ->:3 -12 •IJ ~ - it — it tl — - iC < — - - - -^ -^ k. b S-, U ^ >s « :5 =3 ~ c ■5 5 00 1 ^ > _^ "^ — — — . — — — — ^ * "^ ^^ 02 " M ^ O ?5 LI •-C o •uoisn^X •iiiocli; \^ O C5 9^ i^ *;T T'" '-p o O C5 *■? o w L'5 IN N I— I '-' '^ »o lO o O o o •nmuiinij\[ °«> ;c! Tj. "# 05 05 1 1 £ i-l ■"• ^ •"• ■— i "§ o o o o 11 o o •ranuiixFj^ °x ao >— i ^ a a 1 S M M 05 I t> N 1>- ly (Ml> -K^ "« o W o eo N -H eq (M OJ (N I— 1 I— i ■— 1 M O o o i." 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T i>. -* W M -t — -# i-H X (M TO C5 •>! Ci -* I- t:; lO 1— t -f — ■— 1 <;:= X X j> CO ^ Tn N C5 TO ^ lO o,c X TO ^^ C !>] TO N X LO 30__ -* LI -* 1.0 '*w-^cO'#-^-*'*'*K ^ TO '^ c: ''^'■•*" 6 ^^ — f-H — — ^ f— ' ^H — ^ ^^ -^ Q 2 c ^ W ■^ 10 l-H -* iM X t- TO rH X ."^ o :S w J^ «^ — LO X' TO (M -f t^ -N '.4J be o H *. * M -iH lO t~ 10 e^ 5^ ■* !>• ^ c "a" § '"' 3> , 1 if ' ^ ?J -f o ^ •^ IM X 1^ TO ^^ X t" ;^ I^ re "T o X TO (M -t i-^ ■ri O ^ ct M •^< o t- lO (M IM r*< 1^ ;h -, .,, • • — " • o • '3 • '^ ^ • • -.• • • " ' O' • • ^ Ti • -^ • a P-( -^ c: O ^ s 5 o 1— 1 > 1. ^ C-4 j_ ^ ^H j_^ T3 c= ^« 3 hH •"^ !Z3 _5 o l-H i * 6 t 5 o 3 2 e a O o o 03 3 aaqum^ X Ci ^ - ■M - -^ - - j^ X 2; ?i 378 III. — Meteorological, etc., Observations. 5 --H it JVS is O ^ — 33 tc o - lO IS cc -r i^ -^ o M ■* :c "T C ~. X -t "T c — '■: ~ X Ti X t^ x>. rj — — ti c O eo C — JC C — O 1^ X 'S- t^ C; -* — O r? M — -7 -C -r 1^ r? X Ul — X C X ^•J X — O ceo— J^-*C:t^ "+ -H-.OXO-TO M O -= f=* y — ■>! 1:^ -^ X C — ;i. 2, ,u Oi ^ S - 3 ^ ^ -^ 0-5 = cj = H-^ s ^ .c ^ J^ . = ^^ ,^ f> ' ' ^ z-'f-s^ s. p "-' . "^ = < § "§,r w' = is 7 = S -r ^ S^ 1— k" P > = -^ O "^ c3 o ~ ' o^; CO OQ — 379 Appendix B. 1^ "^ ^-.'H oT-^'-i^ rC^ O aj 53 ^ ~ =3 i -s ^ 1 t-.- -S aj o J, 3 5-3 SPh o '^ -2 ® 00 _,- g - J-S-* t £-^ ^ "3 ^ -^ '"' o >; "o Q> ^ g £ (s5 o^ ? •s ^ s fl H " "^ 5; ^ d s:s sr5.^ cT-s OQ fa '" ~ ^ ^ — =« ua 1^ . . . i-» cp (S CO '-"' o * C-. --0 o cc i^og, rH 1— 1 t*- 5* -■ — " = ^ -;■ ^ -• ^ r;' .-■ = .^" = ^ = -^ = i s=s 2 30 O X I- 00 — X X CI: ro ?l C! lO — -^ X t- C5 1 ^ 1- i-( lO Tf C> X I^ CO O C 'J- -* CT. •? CD -si — '* c; -f <1:= CI 00 l> (M O 1^ U5 ?0 \a ociC^ t^-^i— iccr: (-■O 05 >fl « cq N Tq CO ^ CC i-i eo "CO-- CC'N'TCC-N cT^'co 4 ■-i^ i— i »-^ d 5 "o c — o — o TJ '~ fC X X •3 bo S? M o ^- !C c. 1.1 cr X § ^^ t 1 1 1 -^ cc X 1 1 1 X 1 n 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 i» •Tt 4 ,^ C o o ^ M :c ct X X N t* •M o i fi '^ "^ „ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ "^ •^- ^ ** " " " " " " g =p -f -? i-( -* •^ •ra in t^ f— ( I— ( rH -rf X ■d^p f oij; ;o Jc»quin »^ ^ ^ 5 •- L-5 ._ l^ X C-. ^ § nyiJHodj-daaoj r^ CO " £ ro CO CO -* ^ T3 i p *- • I i ' ' .2 i S3 ^ji "5 o ^ 4) la J= >1 Valley, d st plain Valley, cc I 5; d ,i2 S "^ - 9^ - •ScS -7 ^ >< ■£ > -2 1 -5 5'^ £• ■2 c .2 2^ =« SC.2 bo c S S 1-^ 3 ^ = J3 29 a "" " o «a S 'jaq ran^ t^ « 00 TO O -* (N 00 -t iro 380 APPENDIX C CONTAINS A SUMMARY OF THE GEOLOGICAL, PETROGRAPHIC, AND MINERALOGICAL OBSERVATIONS WHICH WERE MADE BY H.R.H. THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI'S RUWENZORI EXPEDITLON, TOGETHER WITH A LIST OF THE NEW ZOOLOGICAL AND BOTANICAL GENERA AND SPECIES COLLECTED IN THE RUWENZORE REGIONS. Note. — All these observations are fully embodied in the scientific volume which is published only in Italian, and in which are also described and illustrated the new zoological and botanical specimens. 381 SUMMARY OF THE GEOLOGICAL OBSERVATIONS MADE IX UGANDA AND IN THE RUWENZORI RANGE DURING THE EXPEDITION OF H.R.H. THE DUKE OF THE ABRUZZI, BY ALESSANDRO ROCCATI. I.— UGANDA Overlooking for the present the recent surface formations of concretionary limonite and of laterite, that part of Uganda which wag traversed by H.R.H. the Duke of the Abruzzi's Expedition was found to be for the most part •constituted of the crystalline rocks which form the archsean plateau of Central Africa. A not inconsiderable tract, however, of the region traversed is covered with sedimentary formations referable to the Palaeozoic Age, and in the inter- mediate neighbourhood of Fort Portal there is an apparently limited zone in which the crystalline rocks are overlaid l)y recent volcanic formations, represented by stratified tuffs which I take to be of subaqueous origin. Archcean. — On leaving Entebbe in the direction of the west, archaean -crystalline rocks are followed from the shores of Lake Victoria nearly to Mitiana. Here begin to appear the palaeozoic formations, which, interrupted here and there by out-cropping roor.'ic-grained granite and ^;gj7?«rt/«7f, extend to within a few miles of Kasiba, where they suddenly disappear altogether, their place being taken by the crystalline rocks, which continue westwards without further break and thus constitute the whole of the Ruwenzori Range. The archsean rocks are re^^vesentedhy mica-scliisf.% gneiss, and granites (eihvdys associated with numerous quartzites), amongst which are here and there noticed intrusive greenstones, and seams of pegmatite, microgranite, etc. 382 Suinmarv of Geological Observations. All the gneiss and granitic rocks are strikingly conformable in their structure and composition, and their characters agree, broadly speaking, with the descriptions already given by those writers who have occupied themselves with the crystalline formations of South and Central Africa, thus further showing the prevailing uniformity in the constituticjn of the extensive archaean plateau. In the first archtvan zone, that is, between the shores of the lake and the overlying primitive formations near Mitiana, the mica-schists seem to prevail, these being associated with gneiss and thick quartzite beds. The mica of the micaceous schists is the muscwite variety, which occurs in large laminse, thus forming rocks of a very marked schistose type, Init always highly reddened, and often somewhat disintegrated by aerial denudation. ^Mien we pass beyond the palaeozoic and thus re-enter the archjean zone, we find the region 1:»etween Kasiba and Muyongo constituted entirely of a lar(j(>- grained granite, which appears to form a range running about south to north. In this granite are noticed hydiomorphic forms oi felspar, which in their greatest development reach two inches and more. In the granular mass of the rock quartz abounds, while the biotite mica is, as a rule, relatively scarce. Throughout the whole region the granite is always profoundly metamorphized, a fact which contrasts with the relatively fresh aspect of the rock in the granitic outcrops of the palaeozoic zone. At Muyongo the mica-schists again become associated with gneiss, the latter predominating. Such association, always accompanied by quartzite Jieds, and in places by minnfe biotite mica-scliists, and by talc-schists, is continued right up into the Kuwenzori Range, into the constituents of which it largely enters. The gneiss is of a schistose character which is never very distinct, hence is to be considered as a granitic gneiss, the micaceous element of which is biotite, and presents an always more or less pronounced kataclastic structure. Charac- teristic of this rock are everywhere the really considerable abundance of the ferruginous minerals, such as magnetite, ilmeaite, and hematite (the changes of which explain the frequent reddish surface of gneiss), and the constant presence of microcline, which becomes the prevailing, one may even say often the exclusive, felspar variety in this rock. This indeed is a fact which has already been recorded in other parts of Central and South Africa. In the neighbourhood of Ruwenzori biotite gneiss, either normal or with a predominance of microcline, is partly replaced by amphibolic gneisses. In several districts, but especially in the granitic range between Kasiba and Muyongo, are noticed outcrops of pegmatite and micro-granite ; here the pegmatite has never the coarse-grained structure comparable to that of granite, 383 Appendix C. although some specimens present a typical graphic association of quartz with mierocline. In the Lwamutukuza, Muyongo ami Fort Portal districts I noticed in the gneiss-granitic formation considerable intrusions of diabase rocks of granular and sometimes coarse-grained structure. The specimens collected hy us ncA^er contain olivine, nor even the chloritic green pigment so common in the rocks of this tj'pe in our lands ; characteristic is always the abundance of ilmenite, as also the basic felspar often referable to anoiiJtite. Thanks to the metamorphosis of the pyroxenes in amphiboles, which may be easil}' followed in its various transitions, some of these diabases pass over to epidiorite ; true diorite I did not come across in situ, 1)ut believe that it occurs in the Kaibo-Butiti district. Conspicuous also, bet\\een Fort Portal and Duwona, is a thick bed of overlying lii/per.^fhf'ne rjahhro of coarse structure. PaUeozoic. — The formations which represent the Palaeozoic Age follow for about 50 miles between Mitiana and Kasiba. Their eastern limit did not appear to be very clearly marked, whereas the western is distinctly defined by the granitic range which I have descriljed as extending from Kasiba to Muyongo. It is in fact against these very escarpments that the paheozoic formations are inclined. The rocks met in the district are sandstones, arkoses, qiiartzites, quarfzite hrecdas and various schisfs, micacL'OUs or taJ co-micaceous. All these rocks, whose clastic and metamorphic origin is readily recognized in the petrographic laboratory, are for the most part coloured a deep red, and correspond perfectly to the rocks referred to the Palaeozoic Age, as described by observers in other parts of Uganda, as well as in Congoland and South Africa. An exact determination of age is too often prevented liy a total lack of fossils. I think, however, that it may be useful to point out how some of the schists met l)y me greatly resemble analogous formations of the Permian Epoch in the Alps, and how, as we proceed Avestwards, the series seem dis- tinctly to pass from the sandstones to the schists, thus suggesting a steady increase of metamorphism in that direction. Recent for inations. — These are represented by the concretionary Umonite (the ironstone of English writers), and liy Jaterife. The concrefionari/ lioionile is one of the characteristic formations of the Lake Victoria region. Already on the east shore, and then in a typical manner on the west, in the Entebbe district and beyond it, we may say as far as the Kasiba-Muyongo granitic zone, the ground is covered with a concretionary limestone, at times pisulitic (pea-like) or vacuolated, always very compact, colour shifting from a bright red to a biownish-yellow oi- daik biown. 384 Summary of Geological Observations. It supplies tlu' liuildiii^- luati'iial adopted for the sti'uctures of iMiropeaii type at Eute1>l)e. Mitiaua, and other places. Its cheniieal coiupositiou is very constant, containing a percentage of Fe 2O.5, which varies from 51 to 55 per cent. ; hence it diti'ers from that of the limonite nodules, which are found in laterite, in which the percentage of Fe 2O3 may be as high as 82 per cent. In this region the limonite forms several rising grounds, some over 300 feet above the present level of the lake. As to its origin, I believe it was deposited in the bed of the lake, at a time when it was far more extensive than at present, as is evident from a whole series of indisputable facts, the decomposition being effected by a mechanical process analogous to that which in lacustrine basins originates the limonite (bog ore) of marshy places. Hence, in my opinion, the concretionary limonite may be of great importance, as serving to indicate the former limits reached by Lake Victoria, of which even Lake Isolt, near Bujongo, may be merely a remnant. Similarly the few patches of concretionary limonite met in the Butiti district may possibly represent old extensions of Lake Albert. In the limonite are emltedded numerous stony fragments and nodules varying greatly in size. This detrita! material is for the most part represented by cjuartz, hyaline (glassy), granular, or jasproid. I rarely noticed nodules or fragments of gneiss, or of pala?ozic rocks. So great at times is the abinidance of quartzose nodules or fragments as to give rise either to conglomerates or else to breccias with limonitic cement, as the case may be. The scenery of the limonite region is typical in the form of its rising grounds. These do not present rounded contours, such as are normally- observed in other parts of L^ganda, 1;)ut constitute elongated hills with levelled summits, divided one from another by deep fissures, or else they stand isolated on the plain, representing the remains of what at other times must have been the unbroken surface of the ground. In this respect the Enteb1)e and ^litiana districts are characteristic. The laterite resulting from the transformation of the felspar rocks, under the action of the atmospheric agencies, aided by the high temperature and by the alternating droughts and heavy rains, may be said to form the surface layer of the groimd throughout this region. It is found not only in the gneiss and granite zones, but also where the palaeozoic occurs and forms on the rocks in situ a covering of various thickness, which may in places acquire quite an exceptional development. Characteristic is always the iinier red colour, which is due to the excessive oxidation of the numerous iron ores that we have seen to be present in those rocks. In the laterite is often noticed an altundant miraceous hematite, which in 385 2 C Appendix C. some places is Hceuinulated 1)v the rain waters iu depressions of the ground. Common also at varying deptlis are great ])eds of Uriwniie, which in some places, as at Butiti, are accompanied b}^ oxulcs of imivjancsc. This limonite is mined by the natives, who, ])y the Catalonian process, extract from it the iron which they use in the manufacture of arms and implements, an industry in which they display much skill. riu/sira! Features. — Owing to the a1)undant herbaceous vegetation, and to the thick deposits of latL'rito and concretionary limonite, which everywhere cover the groiuid, I was unable to make anv conclusive stratigraphic observa- tions. Nevertheless, from the data which we collected it seems cpiite evident that there must be a considerable discordance lietween the archsean and palneozoic formations. Erosion. — Amongst the phenomena of erosion, which, as may be easily understood, are very marked, mention should he made of the denudation, thanks to which the older rocks, being deprived of their laterite covering, become exposed on the surface of the ground. They usually assume the characteristic aspect of mammiform or hummocky rocks, the so-called roclies moutonnees of the French, which so strangely resemble the glacial features of our lands. The fact is explained by the absence of the factor of frost and thaw, in consequence of which the rocks, instead of becoming disintegrated, suffer only a surface change and rupture, the rubbly fragments of which get constantly displaced and washed away by the rain waters. Outwardly the rocks often present a crust of varying thickness, which is due to metamorphism, and this crust adheres in the loosest way to the under- Ivint' mass. Not seldom the adherence fails altogether, and then the transformed surface forms slabs with rounded edges merely resting on the underlying rock, which is still relatively intact. This phenomenon is seen whei'c the gneisses crop out. In the case of c^ranites there is further noticed a cleavage of the rock in great blocks of parallelopiped form which, presenting greater resistance to decomposition, end by being at last completely isolated and detached. In the vicinity of ]\Juyongo hundreds of such masses occur in the form of pi-isms, cubes and obelisks, at times of remarkably regular outline. Another consequence of this })redominantly superficial disintegration is a peculiar ruggedness which is presented by the surface of the rocks, and is due to the protruding quartz that resists the decomposing forces, while the felspar part is broken up and carried away by the water. In the zone of the coarse- grained granite this protrusion on the surface is noticed even in the case of the largely hydiomoiphie crystals (^f felspar. 386 1 Sammarv of (rcological Observations. In some districts, us at Kaibo ami in the ueiglilnnulKJod of Fort I'ortal, are found isolated masses, or accumulations of masses, on the summits or the flanks of hilly elevations consisting of laterite. In the specified districts these masses consist of dialiase, and we may take it that their presence is due to the resistance of certain rocks, perhaps oi-iginally in the form of dikes, and to the metamorphism which reiluced to laterite the gneiss or granite in which they were embedded. In some places it is not improbable that it may be a ([uestion of some kind of transport. Vidcanism. — Kecent igneous formations are met at the eastern ff)()t of Ruwenzori. Here they serve to indicate the presence of one or more lines of fracture in relation with that great Rift Valley with which originated the depression comprising Lakes Tanganika, Kivu, All)ert Edward, Albert, and the Semliki Valley, and which contrilnited to the isolation of the Kuwenzori Range. In the Fort Portal district volcanic action is indicated by thermal springs (Butanuka), and by stratified tuff which cover the ground and form a series of little volcanoes, whose craters are now mostly flooded with tarns. They form a chain which is disposed very nearly in the direction from south to north. The tuffs of this formation are partly compact and partly of loose structure. All, however, are of subaqueous origin, and thus attest the greater extension in former times occupied l)y Lake Albert Edward, which must proltably have been united with Lake Albert towards the north. The compact tuffs are of a dark hue, and very hard, and yield a cement consisting of a basic silicate rich in iron and easily decomposed by acids. Such tuffs occur in all the craters of the series, only more or less transformed, the change consisting in a tendency to acquire a red colour due to the decomposi- tion of the silicate of iron. The tuffs of looser structure, which are met partly in the craters and in all the surface formations, are of a colour passing from white to grey. They derive principally from fragments of the compact tuff cemented by calcite after the complete discoloration caused by the metaraorphic process. The enclosed exotic fragments are numerous, especially in the non-compact variet}^ and they consist of fragments of the most diverse sizes, whether water-borne or not. These ingredients may for the most part be considered as coming from rocks of the Ruwenzori' Range, such as gneisses, diabases, diorites, garnet-bearing rocks, amphibolites, etc. In the hill at Fort Portal the tuffs are, moreover, rich in vegetable remiiins which, unfortunately, cannot now l)e determined. In the Butiti — Fort Portal region, mineral springs are also muuerous, and the countiy is sultject to frequent eaithquakes. 387 ^ t- 2 Appendix C. I1._RUWENZ( )1U RANGE. Lifholot./ical Con^^iifitfion. — The Kuwenzori Kange, as already pointed out by Scott Elliot, is regarded as a part of the archseau formation of Equatorial Africa which has 1)eeii upheaved through phenomena of dislocation. In fact, it is fomid to 1)0 essentially constituted of various i/ncixftes and inira-f!chi'', and diromifc, some varieties being rich in funrnialinc and (/uniff. The gneisses range up to al)Out 11, GOO feet in association with iiiira-.^dtisfs, the first type, however, being always dominant. (Juurt.tifcs also abound lioth in thick beds and nodules. Above 11,600 feet the gneisses disappear, the vdm-sdtists alone ])ersisting, associated with quartzite>^, and following without break up to the zone of the greenstones. The rnica-schists of the Mo])uku Valley are of two kinds, which constantly recur : iinnntc aud fdiareoKs (lanidlar). The first are formed of minute iitusanite laruina', with abundant quartz, and next to it felspar, mostly andcsile ; in these the schistosity is not always evident, while their compactness and hardness are very great. In the foliaceous kind muscovite prevails in large white siheiy lamiiue, with which is associated a little minute hiotiie, while quartz and felspar become rare. In this second variety the schistosity and the cleavage are clearly seen. The two mica-schist types form beds of varying thickness, either standing quite apart or else passing gradually into one another. They are always and 388 Summarv of Geolooical Observations. &' everywhere rich in toiiniuilinc .-md nirfnjlic ores, ilnienifr, r/imuiifr, liniinlilr and iiUKjnditc. In some phices (jdnii't and ((jHifitc nre also noticed, while in the schistose surfaces fine fibrous aggregates of cijanite and ■e regarded as resulting from an anticlinal or ellipsoidic upheaval, with a slope to the west on the west side, to the east on the east side, passing to the south on the south side, and prohahly to the north on the north side. The presence of this ellipsoidic upheaval, comliined with the phenomenon of the great fractures above mentioned, and with the existence in the central parts of rocks resisting subaerial disintegration, would explain the origin of the Ruwenzori Range and of its lofty sunnnits. OJil (rlacidtim. — A phenomenon of great importance is the vast development of the glaciers of the Ruwenzori Range during the glacial period. The valleys of the Mobuku, the Bujuku, and the Mahoma were filled b}'' the glaciers which descended from the chief mountains. These uniting in a single ice-stream of great size, and filling up the Lower Mobuku Valley, must have easily extended as far as the plain of Ibanda. Proofs of this early glacial expansion are afforded l)y the numerous large erratic blocks ; by the old moraines which occupy the Mobuku Valley from Bihunga to Kichuchu, and al)Ove which rises the Nakitawa Plain; lastly, by the rolled and sti-iated rocks which are so common on the higher parts of the mountain. Regarding the Nakitawa moraine, it may be mentioned that the lake lying south-west of that district, and by the observers generally considered as volcanic, is, on the contrary, inter-morainic. Disregarding the erratic boulders which occur on the plain of Ibanda, and are not perhaps due to direct glacial transportation, the first undoubted proofs of old glaciation were met by me near the ascent of Bihunga, that is, at about 4,500 feet, whereas at present the glaciers do not descend lower than about 12,600 feet. On the western slope, too, the traces are evident of the passage of the old glaciers with scratched and rounded blocks and morainic formations. We were, however, unable to discover how far they had ranged on that side, as we did not advance very far in that direction. Recent Glaciation. — The Ruwenzori glaciers are referred to the so-called equatorial type ; that is to say, they form ice-caps which are at times of great thickness, and more or less completely cover the summits of the mountains. From these ice-caps branches ramify downwards and advance into the ravines, but seldom range, and then only a little way, l>eyond the lower level of the perennial snows, which here lies between 13,350 and 13,500 feet. The position of the glaciers once determined, the lateral nioiaiucs may be 391 Appendix C. neglected; nor du the underlying ones appear to have any great developments, judging at least from the frontal moraines, which are never very extensive. The position of the glaciers likewise includes the existence of depressions in which snow might l)e collected ; falling on the whole surface of the glacier, the snow passes directly and lajjidly to the state of ice, a phenomenon which is easily explained by the atmospheric conditions of these highlands, which, during certain hours of the day often tend to develop high temperatures. One of the characteristics of the Ruwenzori glaciers is the presence of enormous cornices from which hang multitudes of large stalactites, which ])ecome a firm support to the cornices themselves. The origin of these curious stalactites is again to be sought in the special meteorological conditions, which tend to rapid changes of temperature not only between day and night, but also at different times of the day itself, according to the state of the weather. Another noteworthy feature is the water welling up in front of the glaciers, which never presents that turliid look which, under like conditions, is seen in the melting waters of the Alpine glaciers. The water is perfectly limpid, which shows that the moA^ement of the glaciers is but slight, at least at present. Hence the erosion mi;st also be insignificant, and this again explains the absence of considerable underlying moraines. In fact, all the liuwenzori glaciers are nowadays in a state of rapid retreat. Of this proof is afforded in the recently al»andoned morainic foi'mations which are noticed in many places : in the wide areas of polished rocks at the sides and in front of the glaciers ; in a zone not yet invaded by the mosses and lichens, which are typically abundant even on the most elevated tracts of the range; lastly, in the whitish colour so often noticed on the surface of those rocks which have only recently got rid of the mantle of snow and ice by which they were formerly covered. Erosive Phenomena. — On the lower part of the Kuwenzori Kange identic^d climatic conditions lead to the identical phenomena of meteoric tlenudation that are also observed in Uganda. AVe have accordingly an abundant lafi'rifc foi'mation on which a lank herbaceous vegetation is developed ; here also is that rounded form of the exposed rocks with their sham aspect of ruches vioutonnees above indicated ; further, the outward protrusion of some of the more durable components; the cleavage of the rock in superficial slabs, and so on. The zone of the old morainic formations is clothed with a dense arboreal or bushy vegetation of tropical type, and this protects the underlying soil from erosive action. Here and theie, however, aie noticed rents and rifts caused l)y the torrential and swelling waters, with formations in some places of typical fungi-form rocks, as near Nakitawa. 392 Summarv of Geolooncal Observations. Towards 9,000 feet the persistently humid climate gives rise to the zone of the cryptogams, and to the l)Ogs that constitute one of the characteristic features of Kuwenzori. From this altitude, we may sa}' right np to the glaciers, the ground is everywhere uninterruptedly covered with a boggy peat- turf layer which not seldom reaches or exceeds a thickness of I'O inches. On this substratum is developed a vigorous vegetation of mosses, hepatica^ (liverworts) and lichens, which spread a thick mantle over the protruding rocks, the erratic boulders and the trunks of the trees, whether living or fallen with age, and for centuries accumulating on the surface of the ground. Over this overlying stratum of bog and vegetable detritus there is but a slight flow of water, absorbed as it is as by a huge sponge. The surface layer thus forms a protecting carpet for the rocks which, when they can be seen underneath, appear to Tie relatively intact, escaping as they do in great measure from the erosive phenomena. Beyond the boggy zone the surface action of the meteoric agents comes again into play, but it must act very slowly in consequence of the abundant vegetation of the crustaceous lichens covering the rocks. The nature of these rocks, largel}^ constituted of amphibole and quartz, also explains the slighter action of atmospheric deiiuilatimi which has freer play in the gneiss and mica-schist zone. Attention may again l)e called to the characteristic protrusion of the rocks composed of more resisting elements. This fact is apparent in the beds of garnet-1)earing rocks, where the large crystals of garnet protrude with an almost variolar or pitted aspect. The phenomenon is typical also in the mica- schist zone on the western slope of Mt. Baker, where the mica-schist is associated with abundant quartz in lenticular veins and thin layers which everywhere form protuljerances, sometimes even very conspicuous on the surface of the ground. Lastly, in the higher zones to the modifying and erosive action of the atmosphere is added the extremely potent factor of frost and thaw. In this case, wherever the underlying rocks are not protected by the masses of ice, we find long stretches of ground covered with loose chaotic and shifting detritus analogous to what is noticed on the crests and higher slopes of our Alpine heights. 393 Appendix C. alphabp:tic list of the minerals collected in the ruwenzoiii range. Actinolite. Albite. Apatite. Cak'itc. Chalcopyrite. Chlorite. Chromite. Diopside. Epidote. Galena. Garnet. Ilmenite. Magnetite. Malachite. Microcline. Muscovite. Pyrite. Quartz. Tetrahcdrite. Tourmaline. Tremolite. ZOOLOGY. New Genera, Species, and Sub-.species collected by the Expedition OF H.R.H. THE DUKK OF THE AbRUZZL Mammals ... Nyctinomus Aloysii Sabaudite, Fesfa. Felis pardus sub. spec. Ruwenzorii, Camerano. Birds ... Antho,sco])u.s Koccatii, Sahwlori. Lagonosticta Tganda', Salradon. Bycani.stes Aloysii, Sdlmdori. Xylobucco Aloysii, Sidrtvlori. Reptiles ... Lygosoiua Aloysii 8al)audia', Peracca. Molluscs . . . P^iniea Koccatii, rollunmi. l^nnea Sellse, Pollonrra. Einiea Camerani, Pdlloiu'ni. p]nnea Aloysii Sal)audia', I'olhnti'ra. Streptaxis Cavallii, PolloncrH. Urocyclus zonatus, Pnjidncra. 394 Zoological List. Molluscs Urocyclus teimizonatus, PoUonera. — contd. Urocyclus siibfascijitiis, I'olloncra. Urocyclus raripunctatus, PoJlonrra. Atoxou oi'uatum, Polhincni. Atoxon Cavallii, I'oJhtnera. Dendroliniax leprosus, PoUanem. Microcyclus modestus, PuUonem. Microcyclus incertus, Pollonera. Trichotoxon Roccatii, Pollonera. Kirkia nov. gen., Pollonera. Helicariou Aloysii Sabaudise, Pollonera. Yitriiia Cagnii, Pollonera. Vitriua ibaudensis, Pollonera. Martensia entebbena, Pollonera. Fruticicola bujungolensis, Pollonera. Fruticicola Bihungse, Pollonera. Buliminus Aloysii Sabaudi?e, Pollonera. Limicolaria tussiformis var. nov. ugandensis, Pollonera. Limicolaria Roccatii, Pollonera. Limicolaria rectistrigata var. nov. simplicissimus, Pollonera, and var. nov. simplex, Pollonera. Limicolaria pura, Pollonera. Limicolaria pura var. diluta, Pollonera. Limicolaria Cavallii, Pollonera. Glessula De-Albertisi, Pollonera. Glessula ferussacioides, Pollonera. Homorus olivaceus, Pollonera. Subulina Roccatii, Pollonera. Subulina Ruwenzorensis, Pollonera. Subulina Ruwenzorensis var. elongata, Pollonera. Vaginula Roccatii, Pollonera. Beetles ... Hydaticus Rochei, Camerano. Cillseus Cavallii, Camerano. Cillaeus Cagnii, Camerano. Hydrophilus Loanei, Camerano. Lixus Roccatii, Camerano. Sipalus Aloysii Sabaudiae, Camerano. Eumelosomus Aloysii Saliaudia', Panfjella. 395 Appendix C. Dermaptera. Orthoptera Myi-iapoda Crustacea Worms PygidicraiiH livida, llorcUi. Anisolaliis coiiipressa, BnrcUL Genolabis ])ieea, Horelli. Spoiigiphoi-a Aloysii Sabaiulia% Borclli. Chsetospania ugaiidaiia, BorcUi. Opisthocosmiu Roccatii, BoreUi. Apterygida Cagiiii, BordJi. Apterygida Cavallii, Borclli. Ceratinoptera portak'iisis, (liijlin-To^. Hciuithyrsoeera sal )auda, (ji(/Uo-2\)s. Blatta ugandaua, (Ji'jlio-Tos. Pyrgophyma nov. gen., Gicr«phic«l Institute of the B' It«e Nai/y, under the care of the Director, Co«». M.GIAVOTTO - Ct«OA 1906 I (Lat. 0° 20: 23': North ^J°"9°'°lLong.30°i:3V:EastGreen'' 58 inches = 1 mile 2 Miles ers hed n feet SEOLO@l@AlL Sk^t'Qhi- Mia>p or THt OENJTBJIL eRO>yP OF mw^^wm m m -© sj. n by A. ROCCATI INDKX Abriizzi, Duke of, his associates, 29 ; starts on tlie expedition, 32 ; ai-rives at Entebbe, 50 ; leaves for RuWi'nzori, 09 ; ascends Mobuku Grlaeier, 178 ; seales the higliest peaks of Eiuvenzori, 181-5, 180-0; his work on the central group of peaks, 189 ; scales Mt. Speke, 239 ; Mt. Stanley and numerous passes, 243 seq. ; scales the lolanda Peak of Mt. Gessi, 208. Albert Edward, Lake, sighted by Stanley, 8 ; its position and general outline, 194 seq. Albert Nyauza, Luke, its basin o\itlined, 194 seq. Albert Nyanza explored by Gessi, 2. Alhertine Valley, 105, 107, 194. Albertine De])ression, 194 seq. Alexandra Nile, Stanley's, 6. Alexandra Peak, 109; 186, 200, 241, 215, scaled by H.R.H., 181-5 ; scaled by Sella and Roccati. 248 ; its cornices, 225. Ankole, Kingdom of, o7. Ai'istotle, his •' Mountain of Silver," 4. B. Bahima natives, 98, 99. Baker Ml. (Jolnistou's Kiyanja), 153, 199, 201, 257. Baker, Sir S., names tlie "Blue Mountains," 2, 242, 254. Bakorijo tribe, 124, 125, 159. Baumann, O., discovers the sources of tlie Kagera, ; his " Mountains of tlie Moon," 6. Behrens, T. T., Iiis aliimetric observations, 221. Bihunga, 115 seq., 104, 202. Blue Mountains, the, of S. Baker, 2. Botta, E., photographer, 31, 142. Bottego Peak, 238, scaled by H.R.H., 270. Brodierel, J., porter, 30. Buamba canijj, 132, Bujongolo station, 132 seq. : return from, 2(il seq. Bujuku Lake, 232, 204. Bujuku Valley, 124, 120, 178, 203. Butagu Valley, 10, 11, 204. Butanuka village, 118, 1(53. Butiti camp, 93. Buvuma Island, 52. Byndia, 282. C. Cagni, LT., topographer and magneti(; obser- ver, 29 ; his illness, 05 ; rejoins tlie expedition, 137, 103 ; his magnetic observations, 263. Cagni, Mt., 141, 202, 255, 250. Camp, Nos. I, 146 ; II, 378 ; III, 170 ; IV, 191, 192; V, 135; VI, 240; IX, 200; X, 208 ; XI, 275. Castellani, Dr. A., discoverer of the Sleei)ing Sickness germ, 51, 55. Cavalli Pass, 202, 241. Chawa River, 119. Climate of Ruwenzori, 20, 27 ; of Uganda, 79, 80. Cornices, a chardcieristic feature of the higher ridges, 225. D. David, J. J., explores Ruwenzori, lo. Dawe, M. T., his botanical expedition, 15. Dueru, Lake, 105. Duwona camp, 100. Duwoni Peak, 13, 113, 123, 147, 178. E. Kdward Peak, 17, 132, 14(), 201, 219, 250, 258. Elena Peak, scaled by H.R.II., 180-9, 200, 234. Emin Pasha, joins Stuhlniann's ex])edition, 10. 405 Ind ex. Emin Glacier, 241. Emin Peak, 148, 199, 231 seq. Entebbe, capital of Uganda, 16 ; reached by the expedition, 55, 56 ; description of, 58, 59; its meteorological station, 217; return of the expedition fi-om, 282. F. Fauna and flora of Euwenzori, 228-30. Fisher, A. B., explores Euwenzori, 14, 15, 100. Fort Porlal, arrival at, 97; description of, 97 ; route to Bujongolo, 100 seq. ; its position, 105 ; return from, 281, 282. Freshfield, D. W., explores Ruwenzori, 17. Freshfield Pass, 167, 202, 243, 255, 258. G. Gessi, Mt., 148, 201, 202, 238, 242, 2.59, 270 ; scaled by H.R.H., 268. Gessi, R.,explorestlie Albert Nyanza, 2. Glaciers on Euwenzori, 12, 134, 147; their great extent during the Ice Age, 223-4; their present state, 224; thciy general character, 236, 237. Grant Glacier, 240. Grauer, E., explores Euwenzori, 17. Grauer Eock and Glacier, 145, 201. Grauer's Camp, 158, 256 ; Pass, 257. H. Hima Valley, 109. Hugues, Prof. L., on Ptolemy's " Mountains of the Moon," 7; and Appendix A. Ibanda camp, 112, 113 ; tlie general rendez- vous, 259, 265, 277. Igini, I., the cook, 31, 159. lolanda Peak, 202, 23S ; scaled by H.E H., 268; Glacier, 2^6. Issango river, 10. J. Johnston, Sir H., explores Euwenzori, 12. Johnston Peak, 201. K. Kagera River, discovery of its sources, 6. Kampala, Uganda, 59, 60. Kanjangungwe Peak, 10. Kasongo camp, 109. Kavirondo Gulf, 46. Kavirondo tribe, 44. Kenia, Mt., its discovery, 4. Kichuchu camp, 128, 129. Kigessi-Kissongo, Lake, 20S. Kiliniandjaro, !Mt., its discovery, 4. Kivu, Lake, 194. Kiyanja Peak of Johnston (tlie Semper of Stuhlmann), 13, 140, 147, 152 ; its glaciers, 166 ; its lakes and scenery, 171, 172, 175. Kobokora, Lake, 263. Kraepelin, Mt, 10, 202. Krapf, discovers Kenia and Kiliniandjaro, 4. Kurungu torrent, 266, 274. Lugard, Capt., founds Fort Portal, 97. Luigi di Savoia, Mt., 153, 190, 191, 200, 202, 251. M. Mahoma river, 119. Manureggio river, 275. Margherita Peak, 109, 179 ; scaled by H.R.H., 181-85, 200, 269 ; its cornices, 225. Marinvis of Tyre, quoted by Ptolemy, 4. Masai tribe, 42. Meiigo, Uganda, 59. Migusi Valley, 266, 267, 268. Missossi ya Mwesi, Baiuuauu's " Mountains of the Moon," 6. Jlitiuna camp, 90. Mobuku Valley, 11, 12, 17, 100, 101 xeq.; route taken by most of the explorers, 21; Glacier, 17, 143, 178; River, 111, 120, 126. Moebius, Mt., 1(1, 200, 247. Molinelli, Dr. A. C, nu- lical nttnidant, 29, 88. Mondjasa, railway terminus, 15, 37 ; history of, 34, 35. 40G Index Moon, the mountains of, Ptolemy's, 4 ; Speke's, 5; identified bj Stanley witli Ruwenzori, 5. Moore, C. S., explores Rmvonzori, 11, 12. Moore Peak, 146, 155, 201, 26S. Mpango Valley, 106. X. Xaii'obi railway station, 41, 42. Naiwasha, Lake, 194. Xakitawa camp, 120. Xapoleon Gulf, 52. Xfumbiro Mt., Speke's, 5. Xgemwimbi Peak, 10. Xile Province, 57. North Portal Peaks, 266. Xyamwamba Yaller, 11. O. Oilier, C, Alpine guide, 30. Petigax, J., Alpine guide, 30. Petigax, L., porter, 30. Port Alice (Entebbe), 57. Port Florence, railway terminus, 16, 37. Portal Peaks, 148, 203. Ptolemy, liis " Mountains of the Moon " variously identified, 5, 6. R. Rebmann discovers Kenia and Kilimandjaro, 4. Rift Valleys, East Africa, 194 seq. Roccati, Dr., geologist and naturalist, 29, 142, 190, 245 ; his geological work, 263. Roccati Pass, 202. Route from Entebbe to Fort Portal, 70 stq., 90 ; from Fort Portal to Bujongolo, 100 seq. Route followed by most of the explorers, 21. Rudolf Province, 57. Rudolph Lake, 194. Ruisamba, Lake, 8, 105, 195. Ruwenzoi'i, Mts., discovered by Stanley, 1 ; identified by him vrith the " Mountains of the Moon," 5 ; yariously identified by others. 7, 8 ; explored by Stairs, 8 ; by Stuhlmann, 10 ; by Scott Elliot, 10 ; by C. S. Moore, 11 ; by Fergusson, Bagge, Doggett, Vale, Johnston, Wyldc, War.l, David, Freshfield, Mumm, Clraiu>r, Tegart, Maddox, Woosnam, WoUaston, Dent, Legge, and Carruthers, 14-19; table of its explorations from 1888 to 1906, 20, 21 ; its highest peaks, 24, 179-85, 199 seq. ; its glaciers and passes, 202 ; its cornices, 225-27 ; climate of, 27, 28, 227; first sight of, 93 ; its main features, 193 seq. ; its drainage areas, 195 ; its nomenclature, 195, 196 ; its position and general trend, 199 ; its watershed, 203; its river basins, 203; its explorers prior to II.R.U. 204 seq.; table of the errors made in the identi- fication of its peaks, 218, 219 ; compara- tive tables of heights taken by various ob.-ervers, 220, 221 ; its non-volcanic origin, 222 ; its snow line, 227 ; terrace formations of its fluvial valleys, 227, 228 ; its flora and fauna, 228-30 ; panoramic photographs of the whole range, 268, 269 ; all the ascents of the range made by the expedition tabulated, 278-80 ; return of the expedition, 281, 282. Savoia Peak, scaled by H.R.H., 186-9; its height, 200. Scott Elliot explores Ruwenzori, 10, 11. Scott Elliot Pass, 176, 202, 232, 239, 242, 264. Sella v., photographer, 29, 88, 142, 190, 245. Sella Peak, 202, 251, 252. Semliki river, tlie Issango of Emin Pasha, 10, 195, 204, 250, 270. Semper Peak, 10, 13, 147, 152, 201. Sesse Islands, Lake Victoria, 55. Sibyl steamer on Lake Victoria, 46, 282. Sleeping Sickness in L'ganda, 52, 53. Snow line of Ruwenzori, 227. South Portal Peak, 255. Speke Glacier, 235. Speke, Mt., 109, 148, 199, 201, 231 .seq ; scaled by H.R.H., 239 ; its rocky monolith, 266, 274. Stairs, Lt., explores Ruwenzori, 8. Stairs Peak, 202 ; scaled by H.R.H., 2.55, 258. Stanley, H. M., discovers Ruwenzori, 1 ; identifies it with the " Mountains of the Moon," 5. 401 Index. Stanley, Mt,., 110, 14S, 200; iii.-liulcs llio highest, peaks: Margherita, Alexandra, Elena and Savoia, 200. Stulilmann, F., explores Riiwenzori, 10. Stiililmanu Pass, 202, 232, 242. Suahili natives, 82. T. Table of Ruwenzori explorers prior to H.R.II., dates, heights, and routes, 20, 21 ; table of all the Ruwenzori heights ascended by the expedition, 278-80. Table showing the errors made by various explorers in identifying the peaks, 218, 219. Tables, comparative, of lieights taken by various explorers, 220, 221. Tanganika, Lake, 194. Terrace formations of the Ruwenzori river valleys, 227, 228. Thomson, Mt., 199 ; glacier, 200. Toro, Kingdom of, 57. U. Uganda wasted by the Sleeping Sickness, 53 ; extent of, 57, 58; its Kabaka (King), 61 ; constitution of, Gl ; former misrule, 62, 63 ; spread of Christianity and Islam, 63, 64 ; natives of, 74-76, 80-82. Umbortu Tcik, 202; scaled by U.R.H., 242 ; glacier, 241, 242. Unyoro, Kingdom of, 57. V. Victoria Nyanza, railway to, 1(>, 37, 3S, 39. Vitlorio Emanuele Peak, 201, 238, 2.39; scaled by n.R.lI.,243, 247. W. Waigga glacier, 266. "VVa-Kikuyu, tribe, 42. Weismann Peak, 10, 202, 253. Wimi Valley, 11, 107, 204. If'iiiifred, steamer on Lake Victoria, 46. Winspeare, E., topographer, 29, 33 ; returns to Europe, 36. WoUaston, A. F. R., and II. B. Woosnam explore Ruwenzori, 17, 18, 19. WoUaston Peak, 146, 201, 256, 257. Wylde, W. H., explores Ruwenzori, 14. Y. Yeria Valley, 11,' 201. Yolanda, see lohnula. ^tAKKlSON AM) SONS, PK(X1'KKS l.N oKDINAHV TO HIS MAJKSTY, ST, .MARTIN » LANK, LONDON, W,C, APR 2 9 1986 D 000 298 257 7 ^ r.RENTA>0'S ukwUrro k SUtlonrr*, New York.