'*y Of California e^o Regional ^^ Facility LIBRARY SAW :. n .^ HANDBOOK F^OJ^ K EST ONE : WITH A NOTICE OF THE TRINCIPAL OBJECTS IN THE VICINITY, AND SOME BRIEF REMARKS ON THE GEOLOGY, BOTANY, AND NATURAL HISTORY OF THE DISTRICT. BY S. J. MACKIE, F.G.S., F.S.A., PXa, ETCr, •HL UNIVE UNIVERSITY J. ENGLISH, THE LIBRARY, FOLKESTONE LONDON : SIMPKIN AND MARSHALL, stationer's hall court. Printed at "Thk Geologist" Office, 154, Strand, London, TO JOSEPH BAXENDALE, ESQ., AS A SLIGHT ACKNOWLEDGMENT OF THE INVALUABLE SERVICES HE HAS RENDERED TO THE TOWN OF FOLKESTONE, Crijts (KuttJe IS DEDICATED, WITH THE SINCERE RESPECT OF THE PUBLISHER. INDEX. PAGK Alkham 47 Bath Chairs, Hire of . . . .746 Bathing Machines, Hire of . . 74a Beachborough and Newington 45 Cheny Gardens and Water Works 41 Christ Church, Sandgate Eoad 21 Corporation of Folkestone . . 17 Custom House 15 Dissenters, Congi-egations of . 22 Domesday Account of Folke- stone 9 Dr. William Harvey, Biography of 25 Earl Godwin 8 Fishermen and Fisheries , . 29 Folkestone, present state of , 1 Ford, Viaduct and Chalybeate Spring 30 Fossils, list of 69 Geology and Natural History of Folkestone 57 Grammar School 22 Hackney Carriage Fares . . 74a Harbour, Folkestone .... 13 Hythe, Town of .... 48-50 Insects, list of 67 Local Information 71 PAGK Local Worthies 26 Lyminge and Elham .... 43 Lympne, Roman Castrum at . 53 Maid of Kent's Chapel ... 54 Monastery, Folkestone ... 4 National Schools 21 Pai'ish Church of St. Mary and St. Fans with 18 Pavilion Hotel 15 Plants, list of 67 Pleasure-boats 37 Pleasure Boats, Hire of . . . 746 Roman Camp 41 Roman and Saxon Remains . . 8 Royal Visits 10 Saltwood Castle 52 Sandgate, Village of . . . . 49 Sea, ancient Ravages of the, at Folkestone 9 Shornecliffe, Camp at ... 5 St. Radegund's Abbey ... 46 Swingfield, Knight's Templar's House at 45 Villages and Places around Folkestone 39 Walks and Drives 75 Westenhauger and Monks Hor- ton 55 PREFACE. The revision of a second edition is always a pleasant task to an author, as by the continued demand for his book he knows that he has done some service, and that his labours have not ceased to be useful. It is also an agreeable occasion for renew- ing old friendships and for acquiring new friends. It connects the past scenes hopefully with the future, and makes him feel the link there is between himself and the wide and beautiful world around him. To my "Descriptive and Historical Account of Folkestone," I must refer such of my readers as may desire more ample information about this pretty watering-place and the surround- ing country, the object of these few pages being to give the casual visitor a brief outline of its history, and to point out the principal antiquities in the neighbourhood, with which my long residence here has made me familiar. Few localities possess equal attractions in scenery, or vie with this in historical interest. It was on this coast that the Roman legions made their first attack upon the native Britons, and it is here they have left some of the oldest traces of their military' works. It was over this county their successors, the Saxons, first spread, and Kent was the nucleus of those conquests which VI PREFACE. subsequently extended into the famous heptarchy. It was upon this and neighbouring places that the piratical Danes committed some of their bloodiest ravages, and it was from the five ports of this shore and their dependent towns that the sole navy of England was for centuries supplied, — both in sliips and men. For the geologist, the naturalist, and the botanist, there is abundance of material to delight and instruct. The fine sec- tion of the cretaceous rocks is unsurpassed in Europe, and with the abundance of land- and sea-shells, the various kinds of fish, and the numerous rare plants and insects, make this district worthy of ranking among the best localities in England ; while the little that has been done to collect and investigate its natural objects and phenomena, leaves ample sources of reward for the patience and labours of a naturalist, be he resident or stranger. The limits and character of a handbook give but small scope for the thoughts or diction of an author ; the descriptions and notices must be concise and brief — indeed, such a work can be little more than a collection of facts, and, like the sign-posts on a highway, the most our chapters can do is to point in the pleasantest directions and guide to the most attractive spots. S. J. M. London, July, 1859. Folkestone Church. -S. .7. 31(1 chie del. CHAPTER I. DESCRIPTION AND HISTORY OF FOLKESTONE. " Of our amusements ask you ? We amuse Ourselves and friends with sea-side walks and views, Or take a morning ride, a novel, or the news ; Or seeking nothing, glide about the street, And so engaged with various parties meet ; Awhile we stop, discourse of wind and tide. Bathing and books." — Crabbe. I Folkestone is not a large place, nor a gay place in balls, con- '"certs, dinners, and festivities; but there is always sometliing to see, something to amuse and to enjoy, — always something healthful and fresh, and the fine sea-breeze is the freshest and most healthfid of all. There are beautiful cliffs and downs to ramble over, magnificent waves, and the crispest sea, and the yellowest cornfields to look at, and the meniest birds carol at our windows : but the great attractions are the trains and the steamboats that are daily importing and exporting their crowds of passengers ; among whom it is rare indeed, if our circle of acquaintance be large, that we do not meet some familiar face jom-nepng over this well-trodden bit of one of the great high- ways of the world7^p.s the tide sets in, the harbour begins to waken from its slii^ sleep, the steamboats to smoke, and the fishing boats are suddenly found to be manned and to be silently sailing off. The trains come hissing and scrooping down the tramway, and the bell on the port rings vigorously, setting pas- sengers in caps and out of caps, with carpet bags and couriers" B l~. \y' a HANDBOOK OF bags, and large bags and small bags and no bags at all, hobbling, running, shuffling, some all haste and scamper, others so quiet, so steady and sedate, one would fancy they were rather desii-ous the boat should start without them, than that they should reach her in time ; some very polite to the fair sex, and some rather less attentive to their ladies than their baggage, for the latter they do condescend to look after (and pretty sharply too), while the former are unceremoniously left to their fate. It is a strange motley group that issues from those bright varnished carriages, fidl of strange passions and emotions ; some full of joy and anticipation of novel sights ; others going to meet old friends, going on wedding journeys, going, indeed, on all kinds and sorts of happiness; some sad and sorrowful, leaving the cherished scenes of their childhood, theii' friends, perhaps, to "vdsit the sick or the dying ; perhaps going abroad to distant lands and bidding for ever adieu to their own ; some going to make bar- gains, some going to lose those they have made — old, young, grave, and gay,^all help to swell the human wave that rolls along the pier. TWhen the boat has started, nothing pleases the sjDectators (and distresses the passengers) like a good rough sea ; and when she lurches heavily it is particularly delightfid — to those on shore. The next thing to be anticipated is the arrival ; if the day be calm and bright, it is a fine sight to see the swift galley-like vessel, spanking through the water, — the dash dash of her rapidly revolving paddles distinctly audible, — and her decks crowded with travellers and baggage. If the weather be rough, it is certainly a glorious afiair to witness one of these beautiful ships heaved to her keel out of water by the huge waves that roll desperately past the entrance, still rushing onward through the crested foam, like a thing of life under the • FOLKESTONE. 6 steady control of her skilful captain. No sooner is the steamer into port than visitors and sight-seers huny along the quay to the Custom-house landing-place, to criticize the good looks and ill looks, the felts, caps, and bonnets, the figures and dresses, of the steamer's varied biu'den. Innkeepers and commissioners within the precincts pay cDergetic attention to all well-dressed comers on shore ; strong odours of coffee and soup emerge from the waiting-room, and the clatter of plates is heard above the hum of many voices. The luggage for London is quickly landed by strong porters and locked up in vans ; passengers for the "great city" adjust themselves on the seats of first-class carriages, and the long train is dragged up the steep incline by a powerful engine — a very Samson among locomotives. Now inside the Custom-house the strong porters assist the other passengers in clearing the remainder of the baggage, and convey it on hand-trucks to the platform of the station, where it remains for the owners to claim before being labelled for its destination ; and then the merchandize is unloaded into the warehouses. * While these operations have been performing, the steamer has been sioinging, the tide running out, the fishing boats gliding back to theii' moorings, and the hai'bour itself relapsing into a state of ooze, and falling a victim to two booted inde- fatigables and their spades, who by means of those simple in- struments keep it fi'ee from obstructive accumulations. "Within the last thi'ee years a very decided improvement has taken place in the arrangements for the conveyance of passen- gers' luggage. A system of registration through from Paris and Boulogne to London has been established, and vice versa from London and Folkestone to Paris. A charge of sixpence * HANDBOOK OF per package is made, and this fee relieves the passenger from all trouble or other expenses whatever throughout the entire journey, and he is thus saved the vexations and annoyances which travellers otherwise experience in having to look person- ally after the security or clearance of their luggage. During the summer season so rapidly is the landing of the registered baggage and the dispatch of the tidal ti-ain accomplished, in order to perform the service between Paris and London in ten hours and three quarters, that those passengers who do not register their luggage are compelled to proceed without it, or to remain behind and follow by one of the ordinary trains. Bathing, walking, di-iving, and gossip now come in for their respective reigns before the grand entertainment of the steam- packets commences anew on the morrow, and this interval we will attempt to lighten by a description of what Folkestone once was and what it now is, what there is to be seen in it, and what there is to repay a ramble or a ride in its vicinity. We are not a modem town got up for the occasion, for the Romans had a pharos on our cliffs, and extensive intrenchments of that great militaiy people yet remain on the downs, to which the name of Caesar's Camp is applied, perhaps with more truth than is usual in such epithets, for there are strong reasons in favour of this locality having been the scene of that great general's first landing in Britain. Our name of Folcestan is derived from the Saxons, who at an early period spread over this part of Kent, and near the site of the present Bayle Pond, St. Eans- with, the daughter of King Eadbald, founded (a.d. 640) one of the earliest of our English nunneries. Of the royal saint, as might be expected, many miracles are related, the chief of which Ls that she caused the water from Sweaton, a mile off, to run up FOLKESTONE. hill to her monastery on the cliff, — a feat in hydrostatics, I need scarcely say, more illusive than real. She also lengthened, by a summary process, a beam which the carpenters had cut several feet too short, and she made this a disagi-eeable country for ravenous birds and evil spirits. This Saxon monastery stood considei'ably to the seaward of the existing land ; but, through the ravages of the Danes, was destroyed at a period antecedent to the tenth century, for in the deed of gift of Folkestone to the Archbishop Wulfhelm by King Athelstan (a.d. 927), it is alluded to in these words : " where formerly was a monastery and abbey of the Blessed Virgin, where also St. Eanswith was buried, which place by the pagans was destroyed." Thus it remained in a state of ruin until after the Norman conquest, when Kigel de Muneville founded on its site (a.d. 1095) a new priory of Benedictines, which he gave as an alien cell to the abbey of Lonlay in Normandy. So rapid were the encroach- ments of the sea, that in little more than forty years (a.d. 113S)> this building was so undermined that Sir William d'Averanches, then lord of Folkestone, removed the monks to a new church which he gave them. The charter of inspeximus relating to this gift is printed at length in Dugdale's Mmiastican An^/lwa- num and in Prynne's Records, and ends with one of those tre- mendous anathemas common to the ecclesiastical deeds of that period. This Norman monastery was rebuilt, or restored, in the reign of Edward III. by Sir John de Segi^ave and his wife Juliana, and a small portion of one of the walls is still remaining at the corner of Bayle Street in a very dilapidated condition. The revenues were never large; their estimated value in 1385 (S Rich, II,) was £26:16:8; and at the general dissolution, in the 6 HANDBOOK OF time of Henry YIII., the total annual value was £63:0: 7, and the net income j£41 : 15 : 10. The Folkestone priory was one of those which enjoyed the privilege of choosing its own prior, and merely paid a small annual contribution to the superior house, fi'om which it was released previous to the suppression of the alien priories by Henry V., and thus escaped the general fate of those institutions. In the Chapter-house, attached to the acknowledgement of supremacy (1534), is a fine impression of the common seal, which was of an oval fonn, having in the middle St. Eanswith, crowned, with the Holy Book in her right hand, and on her left ann a crozier. Above are the Virgin and Child, and below the half figiu-e of a monk, praying, with the legend, sigillvm . commvne . prioratvs . de Folkestone. Of the priors we have but a very scanty history, merely con- fined to a small list of names, of the owners of which we know little or nothing. Peter, prior of Folkestone, 25 Edward I., is the fii*st on record ; Thomas is next, at whose death Jacob of Soissons, a monk of the foreign abbey, succeeded in November 1361. Sampson of Sens was admitted by Paschal the abbot of Lonlay in June 1372, and resigned four years afterwards in favour of Nicholas Barbarot. Nicholas Cheryton followed him in 1399, and upon his resignation, Richai'd Longe was confirmed prior in October 1426. The name of John Ashford .occurs in 1445, and the election of Jolm Combe was confirmed 8th of August, 1446. Thomas Bainys, or Baines, was the next. A commission was appointed by Archbishop Morton to inquu-e into his conduct in 1491 ; in consequence of wliich, for his excesses and the dilapidation of the goods of his house, he was deprived, after a long process, in 1493. John Thornton, sufiragan to Aa-chbishop FOLKESTONE. 7 Wareliam of Canterbury, was removed hither from St. Martin's at Dover in March 1513, and at his death, George Goodhui-st was collated to this priory, 7th September, 1516. Thomas Barret, the next and last prior of Folkestone, resigned on a pen- sion of ten pounds a year at the general dissolution in the time of Henry VIII., when part of the monastery was demolished by the king's order, but the house and lands were granted first to Edward Lord Clinton and afterwards to Sir Anthony Aucher, the master of the jewels, who took an active part in the sup- pression of the religious houses in this coimty. The last notice I find of the priory itself is in the town-accounts for 1546, where is an " Item payd vnto the sayd Edmund for pluckyng downe the chapell late of seynt Eanswyth and other (three) men for a day's work — every of them — v