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 Printed in the Year 
 MDCCLXXV:
 
 D =N7 
 
 JOURNAL, 
 
 I 7 7 i. 
 
 WEDNESDAY, April ioth, I left 
 London at ten o'clock, dined at 
 Sittingbourn, and lay at Dover. 
 
 Thurfday the i ith I embarked at a quar- 
 ter before feven, and having a very pleafant 
 paflfage, I landed at Calais a quarter before 
 eleven : I got my affairs, &c. regulated at 
 the Cuftom-Houfe, and dined, and pro- 
 ceeded to St. Omer's, where I palled the 
 night. 
 
 Friday the 1 2th I dined at Lille ; and 
 
 quitting that place, flruck into a way quite 
 
 A new 

 
 ( 2 ) 
 
 new tome. The road was very good, but 
 through the fame flat country as on the 
 other fide of Lifle ; not a hedge or a tree to 
 be feen ; a miferable and unfuccefsful at- 
 tempt at corn, plenty of windmills, and 
 fcarcity of people. However, when we got 
 into the Auftrian Flanders the fcene im- 
 proved: Tournay is a large city and a fine 
 object, and the Scheld makes a noble ap- 
 pearance in the adjacent valley ; the forti- 
 fications and walls of the town are entirely 
 covered with ivy, which made a very pretty 
 appearance. Here I found a very indiffe- 
 rent inn, and worfe provifion, for which, 
 however, they had the confcience to charge 
 me five pounds. 
 
 Saturday the 13th. We waited a long 
 time for our horfes. In leaving Tournay 
 we paffed one very fine large and fpacious 
 flreet, through the midfl of which runs the 
 Scheld, inclofed on either fide with a mag- 
 nificent iron rail, much wrought, and of a 
 very expenfive pattern ; beyond that is a 
 row of trees, and then the flreet parts, and 
 
 the
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 the houfes, which on both fides are built ex- 
 actly regular, and make a very noble ap- 
 pearance: here is alfo held a market for eggs 
 and all fbrts of poultry and legumes. About 
 two miles farther we crofied the plain of 
 Fontenoy, where fb many brave Englifh were 
 {lain. It is a very flat and wide extended 
 plain, and feems very unfit for the horrid 
 purpofe of {laughter. They alfo mewed 
 me the place (very near the gallows) where 
 Louis the Bien Aime amufed himfelf with 
 cooking a fricafiee during the time of the 
 battle. I then pafied the Bois du Barre, a 
 wood upon a hill ; there are no timber 
 trees in it, but plenty of ridings, fo many, 
 that as the buds are but juft burfling, I 
 believe I may fafely affirm, that there are 
 more of them than of leaves at prefent. 
 The next poll: was Leufe, a famous ma- 
 nufactory of flockings; then Aeth, a forti- 
 fied town ; about half way of this poll: I 
 had the misfortune to break one of the 
 (hafts of the polt-chaife ; we got it ty'd 
 together as well as we could, and fo pro- 
 A 2 ceeded
 
 ( 4 ) 
 
 to Enghien, where I dined. The inn is a 
 very good one, every thing is fuperlatively 
 clean, and the bill very reafonable. The 
 fir ft poft to Leftrop, I made no observa- 
 tion, being faft afleep; but from thence to 
 Bruflels the country grew very pretty, the 
 corn looked well and green, and the coun- 
 try was well inclofed and planted. I ar- 
 rived at Bruflels about fix ; I faw nobody 
 that evening but Mr. Danoort the Banker, 
 who invited me to dine with him the next 
 day, but I declined it. 
 
 Sunday the 14th. I had a vifit in the 
 morning from Mr. Gordon, after which I 
 took a drive about the town, and then 
 dined, and was vifited in the evening by 
 Madame Nettine, Mr. Gordon, and Lord 
 and Lady Chetwynd. 
 
 Monday the 15th. Hail and fnow in 
 the midft of which I fet out for Liege, did 
 not ftop to dine. From St. Trone, till you 
 come to the vale (in which Liege is moil: 
 delightfully fituated) the country is horrid, 
 flaring, and frightful; an unbounded ocean 
 
 of
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 of fallow fields. I got to Liege about feven 
 o'clock. It fnow'd hard all night. 
 
 Tuefday the 16th. We parTed a mo ft 
 charming country ; but certainly green is 
 a much more becoming colour than white, 
 for this very country, foexceffively beautiful 
 in its green array three years ago, lofes its 
 charms now it is clad in mow, which, how- 
 ever, does not look amifs on the mountains. 
 We then came to Vifey, an old ruinous 
 town, in which you pafs firffc a ferry, and 
 then a bridge of boats, over the Mayne. 
 Beyond this town the road is not only bad 
 but dangerous. I arrived at Aix la Cha- 
 pelle about one ; my old landlord being 
 dead, and his houfe no longer lett for lodg- 
 ing, I was obliged to go into a much worfe 
 quarter, where I neither found warmth nor 
 fuch provifions as I could eat. I diiliked, 
 in fhort, every thing. 
 
 Wednefday the 1 7th. Finding every 
 
 thing at Aix fo very difagreeable, I left it 
 
 a quarter after eight. I travelled the firfl: 
 
 A 3 pofi;
 
 ( 6 ) 
 
 port over a very rough rumbling caufeway, 
 but after that the road mended. It hailed 
 and fnowed very much ; a funeral croffed 
 juft. before me, the corpfe was in a cart (I 
 imagine this the mode du pais.) Juft. fuch 
 croffed me the day after about a league before 
 I came to Bonn, and the affiftants on foot. 
 The fhow made the women run, and they 
 had all their gowns over their heads, which 
 formed a ludicrous appearance, no way 
 fuitable to fo doleful a ceremony. A lit- 
 tle before I arrived at a foreft. where 
 there was a vaft, number of people (as many 
 women as men) employed in mending the 
 roads. After I had paffed the foreft, I got 
 to Bercheim, a miferable poor village. 
 Here there came on fuch a ftorm of rain, 
 fhow, hail, and wind, as obliged me to 
 take fhelter in a little alehoufe, where I got 
 fomefourMofelle, andfome eggs and bacon, 
 for which luxuries I paid only thirteen 
 fhillings and nine-pence halfpenny fterling. 
 After this refrefhment I proceeded by a 
 fandy road, through an open country 
 
 (which
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 (which bears a ftrong refemblance to that 
 part of Champagne betwixt Cerify and 
 Laon) to Cologne, where I defcended at 
 the St. Efprit, where I had every thing 
 good ; a heavenly profpet of the Rhine, 
 and the beft bed I ever lay in- Cologne 
 is a dirty, {linking city ; but they feem to 
 be at prefent very bufy in cleaning, rebuild- 
 ing, and beautifying feveral parts of it. 
 
 Thurfday the 1 8th. I fet out for Bonn. 
 There is, about two miles before one eomes 
 to it, the prettieft village that can be feen; 
 you travel betwixt vineyards, the views of 
 the Seven Montagues, and feveral other 
 vaft hills ; the cultivated country, and the 
 Rhine flowing beautifully by, forms a land- 
 fcape the moft riant and pleafmg that can 
 be imagined. I got to Bonn at eleven, 
 and had for the firft time the comfort of a 
 letter from my deareft Lord ; had a viiit 
 from Mr. Crefiener, went to dine there, 
 and fpent moft of the evening. 
 
 Friday the 19th. Saw a proceflion for 
 
 imploring a blefting on the fields. It was 
 
 A 4 in-
 
 ( 8 ) 
 
 inconceivably numerous, and when it was 
 out at length in the country, it reached four 
 miles ; almofh every creature of all fexes, 
 degrees, and ages, attended it, from the 
 Elector to the beggar ; and the variety of 
 habits rendered it very curious. The peni- 
 tents hoods, with only holes cut for the 
 eyes, have a very odd appearance, as all the 
 choriitcrs in queues make a droll one. 
 The Elector himfelf carried the bon Dieu 
 under a dais of light blue damafk embroil 
 dered with gold. The dais is carried by 
 his Chambellans; all his troops attended in 
 their new cloathing, his band of muiic, 
 and his houfhold equipage following. His 
 ten Hey-dukes (the fhorteft. of them fix 
 feet three inches, the tallefr. more than 
 feven feet high) his ten pages, and fixty- 
 four livery fervants (livery of Maron Pare- 
 mens, and waiftcoats jonquil, laced with 
 yellow velvet and filver lace) befides his 
 running footmen ; his coach is very fine., 
 entirely gilt; the harnefs, hammer-cloth, 
 and ciel de carofTe, is of verd des pres, em-? 
 
 broiderecj
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 broidered with gold. This fine proceffion is 
 called La Theopherie. The garrifou is all 
 the time under arms, and fires every time 
 they give the benediction. At one o'clock 
 I went to Court, and was very politely re- 
 ceived by the Elector. I fat on his right 
 hand at table, and was honoured by having 
 the page, the gold plate, faltfeller, knife 
 and fork, &c. for the firft time. The din- 
 ner was thirty-two and thirty-two, and 
 four removes; we were twenty-fix at table. 
 After dinner was over, we retired to drink 
 coffee in another room, and the ladies did me 
 the honour to admire my diamonds fo 
 much, that I really thought they would 
 have pull'd me in pieces. The ladies of this 
 court have few of them any jewels, and 
 their cloaths are in general frippery and 
 fhabbv, and in no great variety, wearing 
 them without any regard to the feafons ; 
 nay, I am told that molt, of them are 
 bought fecond hand. If drefs is not car- 
 ried to a great height at Bonn, intriguing 
 is, infomuch that a virtuous womau is 
 
 almoffc
 
 ( xo ) 
 
 almoft as rare a bird as a black fwan ; all 
 have their lovers, and, too often, thofe of 
 their own family. The Countefs Fug- 
 gar, who is not reckoned one of the worft, 
 told Mrs. Creffener, that the Ecuyer, by 
 whom (he is kept (or rather, I believe, fhe 
 keeps him) was her forty-ninth gallant. 
 The Abbefs de St. Felix, who is beautiful, 
 (I think for teeth, eyes, hair and bloom, 
 I icarce ever faw her equal) has two lovers 
 at this time, Col. Kleaft and Count BeU 
 derbufch, the firft minifter. I faw with 
 her two of his nieces, who were in mourn- 
 ing (nothing can he more lngubre) for 
 their father ; they are all over black ftuff, 
 a large black veil, not a fmgle hair to be 
 feen, and a large piece of black cloth, 
 which covers their forehead, and terminates 
 in a point between their eyes. After coffee 
 I came for a minute and drank tea at Mrs. 
 Creflcner's, and then went to M. M. Me- 
 minck's aflcmbly (a very good houfe) where 
 I played at Berlan with the Elector, the 
 Comte de la Lippe Shaumbourgh (he is 
 
 heir
 
 ( II ) 
 
 heir to Buckebourgh, and married a Prin. 
 cefs of Saxegotha, a niece of the Princefs 
 Dowager's, who is now dead) the Grand 
 Chambellan, Baron de Lombeck, and Mr. 
 CrefTener ; I won 5I. 12s. 6d. and re- 
 turned home, fupped, and went to bed. 
 
 Saturday, April the 20th. I had a very 
 bad pain in my back whilfl I was at break- 
 fail. I had a falfe alarm that Lord Alger- 
 non was arrived. Madame de Salm fent 
 me a very pretty nofegay of wall flowers, 
 and I then made a vifit and dined at Mr. 
 CrefTener's, during which time the Elec- 
 tor called at my houfe; an honour which, 
 as I was lodged in a hotel, was unprece- 
 dented, and contrary to the etiquette of the 
 Court. I returned to tea at Mrs. CrefTener's, 
 and went afterwards to Madame M. Me- 
 minck's affembly, where I afterwards play'd 
 with the Elector, and the fame party as 
 before, at Berlan. The houfe is very good 
 and well furnifhed, efpecially a little room, 
 a la Chinois, which is in the utmofl per- 
 fection,,
 
 ( I* ) 
 
 fe&ion. China, Japan, Chinefe pictures, 
 rice, ditto, all difpofed in the prettiefl 
 manner imaginable. 
 
 Sunday, April the 21ft. I law another 
 proce/Iion, but by no means fo numerous 
 as the firft. Firfl came a little boy bearing 
 a banner, followed by a great number of 
 others, two and two, who feemed to be 
 from four to {even years of age. Then 
 came women peafants, two and two, many 
 of whom had children in their arms. Next, 
 another fett of little boys, and after, of 
 women, all bearing torches ; thefe feemed 
 of a better fort. Then came a little boy 
 about {even years old, bearing a banner, 
 and feveral others after him in Baudriers. 
 
 Then came a large flag with the Madona 
 and Bambino, followed by a large company 
 of men, two and two. Thefe preceded the 
 figure of the Virgin, with a crown on her 
 head, and drefTed with white tabby trim- 
 med with filver. This image was followed 
 by the choirs of all the church. Then 
 came two men bearing large lanterns, an4 
 
 after
 
 ( '3 ) 
 
 after them the Bon Dieu borne by a prieft 
 in a very fine cope, under a dais of blue 
 damafk embroidered with gold ; and this 
 was followed by an immenfe multitude of 
 all fexes, ages, and conditions ; and every 
 individual in the whole proceilioninceffantly 
 fung Les Litanies de St. Vierge ; which, 
 as the muflc is extremely fine, and feveral 
 of the voices were very good, produced a 
 very pleafing and awful effect. I dined at 
 Court, where I could not help obferving 
 the induftry of the cooks, in converting 
 into fuch a variety of dimes, the materials 
 which they have to furnifh out a dinner, 
 as at prefent there are no legumes, no mut- 
 ton, no fea fifh, nor fcarce any poultry ; 
 however, they make the beft ufe they can 
 of what they have. There are plenty of 
 woodcocks, of which, befides roafrs, fal- 
 mis, ragoos, and pyes, they make foops 
 and faufnges; they give alfo fried fricafiees 
 of chicken, which are very good ; they 
 have alfo the advantage of fanglier and ad- 
 mirable chevreul. They compound things 
 
 oddly
 
 ( 14 ) 
 
 oddly together, and yet make them both 
 tafte and look well ; as for example, I eat 
 a dim compofed of eggs, thyme, cheefe, 
 eels, and lemons ; houblons fricaffeed 
 make them another dim ; in fhort, they 
 really make the beft of every thing, and 
 fend up a handfome, fhewy entertainment, 
 out of what an Englifh or French cook 
 would be puzzled to make a decent dinner. 
 After dinner we went to the Salle de Com- 
 pagnie to drink our coffee ; which being 
 over, I went as ufual to drink tea with 
 Mrs. Creffener, and then returned to 
 Couit, and played at Berlan with the Elec- 
 tor, &c. There were feventeen tables. 
 I returned home before fupper. 
 
 Monday, April the zid. I bought a 
 water-colour picture ; flayed at home all 
 the morning; dined at Mr. CrefTener's; 
 after which I went and paid a vifit to my 
 fellow-lodger, the Comteffe de Salm, went 
 back to drink tea at Mrs. Creffener's, 
 where I was vifited by the Elector. I 
 went afterwards to the affembly at the 
 
 ComteiTe
 
 ( '5 ) 
 
 ComtefTe de Verita's, a horrid bad houfe. 
 At my return home, I found Price arrived, 
 and found by my letters, that Lord Alger- 
 non did not leave Potzdam till the 10th. 
 
 Tuefday, April the 23d. I bought 
 two charming ivories ; fent to the Elec- 
 tor a couple of cucumbers which Price 
 had brought from England. Dined at 
 Court, ' twenty feven people at table. 
 Went afterwards \o drink tea at Mrs, 
 Creflener's, where I found a grand circle. 
 Went after and played at Berlan with the 
 Elector, &c as ufual. 
 
 Wednefday, April the 24th. Another 
 falfe alarm about Algernon. Dined with 
 a great deal of company at Air. Creffener's, 
 and after went and played at cards at 
 Madame Venta's, took leave of the Elec- 
 tor. 
 
 Thurfday, April the 25th. Had a viflt 
 from Mrs. Creflener. Left Bonn at about 
 half an hour paft nine. I found the corn 
 much come up during my flay at Bonn, 
 but Hill no leaves on the trees. I got to 
 
 Cologne
 
 ( J6 ) 
 
 Cologne at half an hour part, twelve ; 
 found Courvaifier, and foon after came my 
 dear Lord Algernon and Mr. Dutens. I 
 found him looking very well, grown tall, 
 and very much improved. 
 
 Friday, April the 26th. My cold ex- 
 ceffively bad, fo that I rofe without hav- 
 ing flept. Algernon and Mr. Dutens went 
 to fee the churches, and afterwards they 
 called upon me, and we drove about the 
 town together, as we did again in the even- 
 ing, and called at feveral bookfellers (hops; 
 after which I returned home and wrote let- 
 ters. 
 
 Saturday, April the 27. My tooth hav- 
 ing plagued me extremely lately, I drew 
 it, and then left Cologne with Mr. Dutens 
 at eight o'clock, and travelled to Berchen, 
 where Algernon came into the chaife to 
 me, and we went together to Juliers ; from 
 whence Tizzey alone accompanied me to 
 Aix la Chapelle, where we arrived at four, 
 and found a delightful lodging, and an 
 admirable cook; aiid alfo mutton, which 
 
 was
 
 ( >7 ) 
 
 was a great variety to me, not having 
 tailed any for fome time. It was fo fcarce 
 at Bonn, that Vilet ordering a leg of it 
 for fupper, was told it would coll: two 
 guineas and a half. After dinner we went 
 to fee the haths, which are very conve- 
 nient, and fitted up in the fame manner 
 as the Duke of Kingfton's at Bath. The 
 gentlemen went to a bookfeller's, and I 
 to my lodgings. 
 
 Sunday, April 28th. In the morn- 
 ing Lord Algernon and Mr. Dutens went 
 to fee Charlemagne's Trefor, and the town 
 houfe ; and at eleven o'clock, after pay- 
 ing a very reafonable bill, we left Aix la 
 Chapelle. Lord Algernon and I went to- 
 gether to Vuron, where we got a few eggs 
 for our dinner ; and then Mr. Dutens and 
 I proceeded to Liege. 
 
 Monday, April 29. We left Liege at 
 half pad: eight o'clock. Mr. Dutens and 
 I went together the firft ftagc, and before 
 we left the town we were diverted by our 
 fore horfe walking very fenoufly into a 
 B frip-
 
 ( i8 ) 
 
 frippery at St. Tron. Mr. Dutens rea- 
 ligned his place here to Tizzey. The 
 country improves greatly every ftep of the 
 way to Tirlemont. Here I got a horrid 
 poftillion, who run me full againft a cart, 
 at a village called St. Jooris, and broke my 
 wheel iron ; and after that he drove me 
 into three wrong inns at Lou vain, where 
 we dined before we could fiiid the Homme 
 Sauvage. Lord Algernon and I travelled 
 from thence to Malines without any acci- 
 dent ; but there we again got a horrible 
 driver, who drove us againfl one of the 
 gates of the town, broke my new wheel 
 iron, and, what was worfe, fplitthepan- 
 nel of my new chaife. This ftopt us ib 
 long that we did not get to Antwerp till 
 ten o'clock at night. 
 
 Tuefday, April 30. Left Antwerp at 
 nine, and had for the firft fix mile to Brafs 
 Cat, where we gave the horfes a bait, a 
 good paved road ; but from thence, deep 
 lands, over barren moors, to a poteau, 
 which divides the Auftrian and Dutch do- 
 minions.
 
 ( 19 ) 
 
 minions. We afterwards got a bit of cold 
 meat at a Dutch village ; and then arrived 
 at the Prince Cardinal at Breda, a very- 
 clean inn (and the neateft kitchen I ever 
 beheld) and {lands on the promenade very 
 pleafantly. 
 
 Wednefday, May the ifl. After pay- 
 ing an abominable dear bill, we fet out 
 from Breda at ten minutes pafi feven, and 
 got to Dongen at forty minutes pall: eight, 
 where we flopped a quarter of an hour to 
 refrefh the horfes ; went on by the fame 
 fandy road to Capel, where we eat fome 
 cold meat in a very tidy alehoufe. In the 
 evening Mr. Dutens went in the chaile 
 with me ; we came to the Great Maefe ; 
 we were about an hour and a half crofling 
 it ; found it very difficult getting the 
 chaife out of the boat, as the fhore was a 
 deep fand, and almofl perpendicular ; the 
 horfes plunged and kicked, andWere very 
 near precipitating us from a great height 
 into the river; however we got totheDoel 
 at Gorcum foon after five o'clock. 
 
 B 2 Thurf-
 
 ( * ) 
 
 Thurfday, May the 2d. Left Gorcum 
 with Mr. Dutens twenty-eight minutes 
 after eight, and we arrived at Utrecht at a 
 quarter after one, The Electrefs Palatine 
 was expected after dinner. We went to 
 fee the grand Salle de 1' Academic where the 
 peace of Utrecht was figned. It was not 
 worthy heing feen for any other caufe, 
 for it was only a large dark room hung 
 with foreft tapeftry. I then took a turn 
 round the mall, and drove a little about the 
 town. When I came home I found the 
 Electrefs Palatine had arrived whilft I was 
 out. 
 
 Friday, May the 3d. I rofe at fix to fee 
 the Electrefs Palatine depart : fhe is tall, 
 not handfome, and wears a vail: quantity of 
 rouge. She was drefTed in a black ncp-li- 
 gee, with a long train ; and had on her 
 head a large undrefled cap with blue and 
 white ribbons. She went in a hired coach 
 with the Princefs of Tour Taxis, who fat 
 backwards. One footman fat by the coach- 
 man on the box; and two others, with a fack 
 
 of
 
 ( 21 ) 
 
 com, and a laddie, rode behind. Next was 
 a chaife with four horfes, in which was 
 Monfieur de Tour Taxis (who had handed 
 her into her coach) and another gentleman 
 of her fuite. Next was a berlin and fix, 
 with two of the Princeiles women, one 
 belonging to Madame Tour Taxis, and a 
 Maitre d'Hotel ; then a coach in which 
 were four valets de chambres ; and laft of 
 all, came a carriole with two horfes only, 
 and two more men fervants in it ; moft of 
 them had liverymen both behind and on 
 the box. On the whole, I never faw a more 
 fhabby appearance. Mr. Dutens, Vilet, 
 and Price went to the top of the tower of 
 the church ; the ftcps are all from nine to 
 eighteen inches high, and there are 464 of 
 them. Lord Algernon and I went to 
 Zeyft, formerly a favourite feat of King 
 William, and now belonging to the Count 
 of Naflau Salcc ; contiguous to which is 
 a large and regular fquare, confilling of a 
 chapel and habitations. Here is a fettle- 
 ment of Moravians, who all, from Count 
 B 3 Ziu-
 
 C ) 
 
 zendorfT down to the meaneft mechanic, 
 eat together. There are dwellings for one 
 thoufand two hundred, but it has at pre- 
 fent only four hundred inhabitants; there 
 are mops of all kinds of trades and profe- 
 fions ; there are little toys at two-pence 
 each, of almoft every part of the creation. 
 We alfo faw a very clever cabinet maker, 
 who had a number of new contrivances ; 
 we examined all, and bought feverat 
 things ; we came home by Bilt, where 
 there was a fair for cattle. In the evening 
 I travelled about the town of Utrecht, 
 which is a very large one. In many of 
 the flreets are canals with trees on each 
 fide ; near the rails, and under the ftreets 
 are magazines, &c which are on a plein 
 pied with the water, which makes an eafy 
 communication with the houfe, and muft 
 render them very convenient for embark- 
 ing or receiving merchandize, or any other 
 commodities ; and to prevent the great 
 length of canals from turning thole at 
 land too far about, they are crofled by 
 
 frequent
 
 ( *3 ) 
 
 frequent bridges. The other flreets where 
 there are not canals, are very well paved, 
 and the trottoirs are all raifed and paved, 
 either with marble, clinkers, or different 
 coloured bricks, in very pretty patterns. 
 The people of Utrecht are in general, neat, 
 civil, and clean ; the children are remark- 
 ably pretty, and have beautiful complexions. 
 Saturday, May the 4th. After having 
 paid Monfieur Oblet a vile dear bill, we 
 left Utrecht a quarter before {even, and got 
 to Moorfort, a little town, thirty-four mi- 
 nutes after eight. We then went by a road 
 partly by canals, which were very pretty, 
 and partly by hideous ugly fields, to Oud- 
 water, a clean town, the firft in the pro- 
 vince of Holland. Its fortifications are 
 beautiful; I am no judge of their ftrength. 
 Here we loft our way, and it cofl me fix- 
 pence to an old woman to fet us right 
 again. We paffed Hartftrecht, another 
 very neat town, but a very fmall one. 
 Here wc croffed the Yflel to Gouda or 
 Torgou, a very large town. Over the gate 
 B 4 b Y
 
 C 24 ) 
 
 by which you enter it is a very Gothic old 
 figure painted, of Satnfon carrying the 
 gates of Gaza. The grand place is very fpa- 
 cious, and is adorned by a town houfe, 
 and likewife another large building for the 
 States to afTemble in. But the glory of 
 this town is its church, which, as we 
 found the horfes would take fome time to 
 bait, we walked to fee; it is extremely 
 large, and the fieeple extremely orna- 
 mented. It is a flately and magnificent 
 building, exceeding in lize all the churches 
 of the Low Countries. This church was 
 in great part burnt down ill 1552 ; it was 
 rebuilt foon after, and all the beautiful glafs 
 windows were given by feveral eminent 
 perfons, and painted by the moil: excellent 
 painters of thofe times. The organ too is 
 quite magnificent. The firit. window was 
 given by the States of Holland, and is an 
 allegory to reprefent liberty of confcience ; 
 the defign is of Uytewaal, and was painted 
 by a Vrije ; the perfpective is extremely 
 finely obferved in it. There are in all 
 
 forty-
 
 ( *5 ) 
 forty-four of thefe painted windows, all 
 vaftly well done ; but thofe that ftruck 
 memoft, were the firft already mentioned: 
 The fifth, given by Gabrielle Van Boetzelaar, 
 Abbefs of Rynfburgh ; the fubject is the 
 Queen of Sheba coming to Solomon ; it 
 was painted by Crabeth ; underneath the 
 fubjecl: is reprefented the donor on her 
 knees, the angel Gabriel ftanding behind 
 her, and around are feveral coats of arms ; 
 one I remarked, appeared to be the arms 
 of Brabant and Lucy quarterly, and the 
 Percy arms on an efcutcheon of pretence, 
 the whole biazon'd or, and gules. The 
 feventh again is a very fine one, it was gi- 
 ven by Philip II. of Spain, and Mary 
 Queen of England, and executed and de- 
 signed by Crabeth ; the upper part repre- 
 fents Solomon dedicating his temple, and 
 the lower, the Lord's fupper ; beneath 
 which are the portraits of Philip and Mary 
 kneeling on cufhions ; me is reprefented 
 much handiomcr than ever I faw any pic- 
 ture of her. The eighth is incomparably 
 
 well
 
 X * ) 
 
 done, it was given by Henry Duke of Brunf- 
 wic, and executed by Crabeth; it reprefents 
 Heliodorus, who, entering the temple, is 
 ftruck down by an angel ; the perfpective 
 is very fine \ at the bottom is a portrait of 
 the Duke of Brunfwic, and near him St. 
 Laurence ; the colour of fire is imitated in 
 this fo truly, that you can fcarce perluade 
 yourfelf that you don't feel the heat of it. 
 The next which invited my attention was 
 the nth, given by Letmatius, invented by 
 Vanhoord, and executed byVanzyl; thefub- 
 ject is the birth of St. John the Baptift; the 
 colouring of the drapery in this window is 
 inimitable. The fourteenth was given by 
 the Prince Bifhop of Liege, and executed 
 by Crabeth ; the fubject is St. John's fer- 
 mon to the foldiers ; the figures in this 
 are perfectly well grouped, and the colour- 
 ing of the fky is fo well contrived, that 
 the light mining through the window ap- 
 pears to be a part of it. Upon the whole, 
 I think this and the next the fined of the 
 whole number ; though I don't know how 
 
 to
 
 ( 2 7 ) 
 decide between them and the fifteenth, 
 which was given by George D'Egmont, 
 Bifhop of Utrecht, and executed alfo by 
 Crabeth ; the fubject is the Baptifm of 
 Chrift ; and underneath the figure of the 
 donor kneeling, and behind him is that 
 of his patron St. Martin, giving alms to 
 a leper ; the perfpe&ive, as well as the co- 
 louring, is charming. The twenty-third 
 window was given by Margaret of Auftria, 
 Duchefs of Parma, daughter of Charles 
 the Vth, and Governefs of the Low Coun- 
 tries , and likewife the work of Crabeth ; 
 Elijah's Sacrifice is the fubjecl: ; and at the 
 bottom is the portrait of Lady Margaret 
 kneeling, and behind her St. Margaret 
 her patronefs, with the dragon under her 
 feet ; the glow of the colouring of the 
 drapery is delightful. The twenty-fifth 
 was given by the Burgomafter of Delft, 
 and executed by Clok ; the fubjecl: is, 
 raifing the (lege of Leyden; and under it is 
 the city of Delft, with villages, portraits 
 of fume of the great men of that time, 
 
 fhips,
 
 ( 23 ) 
 
 fhips, foldiers, &c. the drawing of this 
 is inimitably good. The next, the twenty- 
 fixth, reprefents the relief of Samaria, but 
 it is much too confufed ; and the twenty- 
 feventh, reprefenting the Publican andPha- 
 rifee, is ill drawn, I mean the figures 
 for the perspective is very good ; the organ 
 in the church is extremely fine. We re- 
 turned to the inn, where Price having 
 brought fome cakes, we afked for fome 
 butter, and eat it with our own checfe, and 
 had a cool cup made to drink with it ; for 
 this cup and the butter they had the con- 
 fcience to charge il. 5s. Englifh. We then 
 purfued our journey by a town full of vaft 
 tile and brick kilns; all the ground on our 
 left hand was entirely flooded and over- 
 flowed, fo as to appear an unbounded ex- 
 panfe of water. We fkirted the city of 
 I^otterdam without entering it, and got 
 to the Hague a quarter after fix. The 
 moment we arrived our Ambaflador came 
 to vifit us, and immediately after him the 
 Prince of NaiTau Weilbours; f who looks ex- 
 
 tremely
 
 ( 29 ) 
 
 tremely well) and afterwards we had alio 
 Mademoifelle La Tour, the Marquis de 
 Bcllegarde, Madame de Boetflaar, Ma- 
 demoifelle Brantzbourg, Monfieur and 
 Madame Bouwens and their little boy. 
 
 Sunday, May the 5th, we went to the 
 AmbalTador's chapel, and at nooon re- 
 turned a^ain to dine with him. I after- 
 wards made vifits to Mefdames Boetf- 
 laar and Bouwens, came home and drank 
 tea, and then went to Mademoifelle Hen- 
 nenoort's affembly ; the hereditary Prince 
 of Hcfie Darmftadt was there, and I think 
 him altered for the worfe ; he is like a 
 great maftill puppy. Though but eighteen, 
 lie is above fix feet high, ftrongand robufl, 
 with a heavv countenance ; an oval face 
 with large features ; his forehead is well 
 enough, his hair f^nCiy, his mouth wide, 
 his iins thick, the under one hanging; down ; 
 rolerablv good teeth, his ikin ran, and a 
 few fmall marks of the fmall-pox icattered 
 here and there, far from handfome, and 
 very fhort-fighted. I played at BerJau 
 
 with
 
 ( go ) 
 
 Sir Jofeph, the French AmbafTador, CoU 
 Saumaife, and Madame de Boetflaar. 
 
 Monday, May the 6th. I breakfafted at 
 Court with the Princefs, and about four 
 hundred people ; as her Royal Highnefs 
 gives a public breakfaft to all people of 
 famion who chufe to come, and I, as a 
 ftranger, had a particular invitation. Her 
 Royal Highnefs received me with great 
 regard and kindnefs, and the Prince alfo 
 was very polite and gracious to me. I 
 waspleafedto find that the Princefs, though 
 much marked with the fmall-pox, is very 
 little altered by it. Her features (except 
 her nofe) are not at all changed, and her 
 countenance is juft the fame, and her co- 
 lour is rather freiher than before. There 
 were tables in the gallery, and all the 
 rooms covered with gaufres, bifcuits, bread, 
 and butter, with hung beef, veal, tongue, 
 ham, and Bologna faufages, broadikies, 
 cookies, lobfters, tarts, cakes, and all kinds 
 of paftry, &c. coffee, chocolate, tea, wines 
 of all forts, orgeat, and lemonade. I 
 
 had
 
 ( 3 1 ) 
 
 had the honour of fitting on her Roya! 
 Highnefs's right hand. She afked me to 
 walk with her in the Kermes, but I was 
 too lame to have that in my power, fo I 
 got into my coach and drove to La Failles, 
 and purchafed myfelf a couple of luteftring 
 negligees. In the afternoon I went to the 
 theatre, where we had the following 
 pieces, Lcs trois Freres Rivaux, La Bohem- 
 mienne, Quand eft celui on me marie, 
 which laft is taken almoiT: verbatim from 
 theRelapfe. After it was over, I went to 
 MademoifelleHennenoort'saffembly, where 
 I played at Berlan with Sir Jofeph, the 
 Comtcfic de Starembourg, Col. Saumaife, 
 and Madame de Boetflaar, and won twenty- 
 eight fifli. 
 
 Tuefday, May the 7th. I rofe with the 
 head-ach ; breakfafted at Court, and then 
 in my coach took a tour round the 
 fair, and getting out, walked round the 
 (hops in the hall, bought only a purfe. 
 In the evening I went out to make my 
 vifits ; drank tea with Madame Starem- 
 bourg,
 
 C V- ) 
 
 bourg, but found myfclf fo lame, that I had 
 much ado to get up flairs ; when I came 
 home I continued in great pain till I went 
 to bed. 
 
 Wednefday, May the 8th. Had the 
 gout violently all night ; was not able to 
 rife till noon ; continued in pain all day. 
 The Princefs of Orange fent, and the Prince 
 of Weilbourg came in perfon to enquire 
 after me. 
 
 Thurfday, May the 9th. I found my- 
 felf a little better ; my gentlemen carried 
 mv cxcufe, and went themfelves to dinner 
 at Duke Louis ; the entertainment was 
 very fine ; no prince can be better ferved 
 than he is. The Princes of Hefle Darm- 
 ftadt, Hcile Caffel, Saxe Gotha, and Naf- 
 fau Weilbourg all dined there. Some 
 Perfums who are here fent me a prefent of 
 fweetmeats lately fent to them from Or- 
 rnus, of a kind that they fay never was in 
 Europe before. The Prince and Princefs 
 of Orange fent, and the Prince of Weil- 
 bourg called himfelf to enquire after me. 
 
 I law
 
 ( 33 ) 
 I faw Mrs. Prado for a minute in the 
 morning. Lord Algernon and Mr. Dutens 
 went to our Ambaflador's ball (he called 
 upon me in the afternoon) and the former 
 had the honour to dance one dance with 
 the Princefs of Orange, and another with 
 Mademoifelle Bigot. 
 
 Friday, May the ioth. We had a vio- 
 lent ftorm of thunder and wind ; it quite 
 Ihook me in my bed. I had a morning 
 vifit from Mademoifelle Hennenoort. The 
 gentlemen breakfafted at Court, and in the 
 evening we went to the rope-dancing. I 
 was in great folitude, not having one fin- 
 gle viflter. 
 
 Saturday, May the i ith. Rather more 
 pain than the day before. The gentle- 
 men breakfafted again at Court. The 
 Princefs of Orange walked under my win- 
 dow with the Princes of Saxe Gotha, Hefle 
 Darmltadt, and Htffc CafTel ; they afked 
 me how I did, and the lair, of thefe Princes, 
 with great fprightlinefs, ran up ftairs alone 
 into my room, and told me, that as he 
 C could
 
 ( 34 ) 
 
 could get nobody to prefent him, lie \Vas 
 come to prefent himfelf to me. He flayed 
 about ten minutes, and then took himfelf 
 away with as much vivacity as he came 
 in. My other viiiters, this morning, were' 
 Mademoifellc Hennenoort, Count Ben- 
 tinck, and Mr. Charles Bentinck. After 
 they were gone I got a pair of new crutches, 
 with which I was fo much charmed, and 
 ufed fo often, that I brought on a frefh fit' 
 of pain into my left foot. I had no vifiters 
 in the evening except our AmbafTador. 
 The gentlemen fupped at the French Am- 
 baffador's, and commended the entertain- 
 ment as elegant and expenfive. 
 
 Sunday, May the 12th. The gentle- 
 men went to church. I had Mr. Charles 
 Bentinck almofl all the morning. Aftep 
 dinner, Prince Frederic of Hefle Caffel 
 came and fat tete a tete with me for above 
 an hour; I was quite charmed with him; 
 he is vaftly like his mother, and refembles 
 ftill more Princefs Amelia; there is infinite 
 Ipirit in his countenance, and fomething 
 
 very
 
 ( 35 ) 
 
 very pleafmg in his fmile ; he is rather 
 tall, well made, and extremely genteel; 
 Iiis face is oval, his teeth fine ; he rides 
 remarkably well ; fpeaks like an Englifh- 
 man ; he has a regiment in the Dutch fer- 
 vice; there is a thicknefs in his fpeech juft 
 like* the Princefs Amelia ; he is now be- 
 tween three and four and twenty, vaftly 
 civil, of a military turn, a very good dif- 
 pofition, and is extremely feniiblc. After 
 he was gone my viiiters were Monfieur 
 and Madame Bouwens, Monfieur Boetflaar, 
 Sir Jofeph Yorke, and Mademoifelle La 
 Tour. At night my foot was more fwel- 
 Icd than ever. 
 
 Monday, May the 13th. Mr. Charles 
 Bentinck, Monfieur d'Abling, and Made- 
 moifelle Hennenoort, took up my whole 
 morning; in the afternoon I had only our 
 Ambafiador, who lent me Sir John Dal- 
 rymple's hiftory. Lord Algernon and Mr. 
 Dutens went to a ball at Court. When I 
 went to bed I had my foot meafured ; the 
 ancle was thirteen inches and a half, the 
 C 2 inftep
 
 ( 36 ) 
 inflep eleven inches, and at the root of the 
 toes it was ten inches and a half. 
 
 Monday, May the 14th. The Bour- 
 geois were all under arms. I had a very 
 good view of them- from my window ^ 
 they had moft of them blue coats (one com- 
 pany in particular had all of them white 
 fattin waiftcoats and breeches) white ban- 
 daliers, and every one of them orange- 
 boughs, and cockades of orange colour in 
 their hats, white gloves, and moft. of them 
 white bufhy bob wigs ; they are eighteen- 
 hundred in number ; they all marched in 
 form to the place d'exercife r with drums- 
 beating and colours flying. There refrem- 
 ments of all kinds were prepared for them, 
 and foon after the Prince and Princefs of 
 Orange went to the field to the tent in the 
 following order: firft, a gilt coach, in 
 which alone was General Bigot, (Grande 
 Maitre de la Cour) drawn by fix bay horfes, 
 with footmen behind ; then another ftate 
 coach (in which were the fir ft Chambel- 
 lans to the Prince and Princefs) drawn by 
 
 fix
 
 37 J 
 fv<. black horfes ; thefe and all the reft had 
 long tails; next came four equerries, twelve 
 aids du camp, and fix pages on horfeback; 
 then four running footmen ; after whom 
 came the Prince and Princefs in a gilt 
 coach, not heavy, but in a very good tafte; 
 two pages on the braces, fix footmen be- 
 hind, and drawn by fix blue roans ; crim- 
 fon velvet and gold harnefs; then came the 
 guards, and after them four of the Prin- 
 cefs's ladies in a pea-green coach, extremely 
 well painted and varnimed, and drawn by 
 fix dappled grey horfes ; their harnefs of 
 pea-green velvet embroidered with gold. 
 Then came four more Chambellans in ano- 
 ther, drawn by fix white horfes ; each of 
 thefe lafr. coaches had two footmen behind 
 them, and were followed by grooms, &c. 
 on horfeback. The Prince and Princefs 
 alighted at the tent, where they flayed till 
 the whole eighteen hundred men had 
 palTed by them, and then returning in the 
 fame ftate which they came ; they fliewed 
 themfelves again to the Burghers at the 
 C 3 win :
 
 ( 3 ) 
 
 window, as they marched to the palace. 
 They then went to the Schuyters Doele, 
 where a magnificent dinner and (upper was 
 prepared for them, and drank the Prince 
 and Princefles health in a gold cup made a 
 prefent to them by the Prince, which holds 
 two quarts, but which, neverthelefs, fome 
 of them took off at one draught. I had 
 the honour of two window vifits to day 
 from the Princefs. My morning vifiters 
 were the Marquis of Cordon, and Mr. 
 Charles Bentinck, as ufual. In the after- 
 noon the Prince of Weilbourg came and 
 fat an hour and a half tete a tete with me. 
 He fancying my leg would be eafier if I 
 had a flool to lay it upon, very good 
 naturedly ran home on foot to lend me 
 one; after which I had the Countefs Starem- 
 bourg, Sirjofeph, Monfieur and Madame 
 Bouwens, Mademoifelle de Brantzbourg, 
 and Mademoifelle La Tour. The gentle- 
 men went to Madame Schuylemberg's. 
 My knee was much fwelled this evening, 
 
 Wed-
 
 ( 39 ) 
 
 Wednefday, May the 15. Lord Alger- 
 non and Mr. Dutens, and the Baron 
 Pfeltz went to Leyden. I had viiits in the 
 morning from our Ambaflador and Mr. 
 Charles Bentinck; and in the evening I had 
 the Princes of Orange, Saxe Gotha, and 
 JJefle CafTel (at the window) the two 
 Mefdames Bigot, and Sir Jofeph Yorke. 
 My foot was rather lefs fwelled at night. 
 
 Thurfday, May the ;6th. I fent the 
 upper fervants and John Bell to fee the 
 Prince of Orange's menagerie; they brought 
 a very indifferent account of it ; Charmer 
 was dead, and moil of the other animals 
 who ufed to inhabit it ; there is nothing 
 now left but two trumpet birds, one blue 
 bird from Carolina, fome ring-necked and 
 fome purple and white China pheafants, 
 one China boar, two crane voghels which 
 have long beards, two Indian fquirrels ? 
 two powyks, a few fpotted deer, a red 
 macaw, a blue ditto, two water birds, a 
 bird with two things from its head like 
 lappets, a Weft Indian water ouzel, and 
 C 4 fomq
 
 ( 4*> ) 
 
 fome few iilk fowl. I received a very fine 
 prefent of grapes from my landlady. No- 
 thing can be more attentive and obliging 
 to me than thofe good people are, and 
 conftantly have been; nay, my landlord is fo 
 fond of me, that he fays if I have a mind to 
 eat fire and drink his blood I {hall have it i 
 pretty warm diet it mull be confeffed. 
 I got with difficulty down to the great 
 room. 'My vifiters this evening were our 
 Ambaffador, Countefs and Mademoifelle 
 Starembourg, Prince Frederick of Hefle 
 Calfel, Monfieuf de Larray, General Bigot, 
 and the Marquis de Bellegarde. Sir Jo- 
 feph told me the following lingular flory : 
 Brookes of Holborn, who fells all forts of 
 animals, ufually comes once a year to 
 Holland to pick up a cargo of birds, &c. 
 In this way he trafficked a good deal with 
 a Mr. Echardt, a gentleman who has a 
 feat between the Hague and Rotterdam, 
 where he has a manegerie with many cu- 
 t'ious kinds of fowl. Brookes one year 
 applied to him, faying a perfon of diftinc- 
 
 tion,
 
 ( 4i ) 
 
 tion, at above two hundred miles from 
 London, in the South Weft part of Eng- 
 land, had defired him to get a pair of 
 ftorks ; afked Mr. Echardt if he could get 
 him any, Mr. Echardt allured him, when 
 the breeding feafon came on he would have 
 two taken and bred up for him againft he 
 came back to Holland ; accordingly the 
 young ones were taken, and Mr. Echardt 
 gave them into the care of his gardener and 
 his wife, who bred them up in his houfe, 
 where they walked about tame among the 
 children, who delighted to play and feed 
 with them. When Brookes came over 
 they were packed up in a bafket, put on 
 board, and fent direclly to the port ofLon- 
 don, and from thence to the gentleman for 
 whom they were defigned. The next fea- 
 fon, at the time when the ftorks came into 
 Holland, Mr. Echardt going one day to 
 his country feat, his gardener told him that 
 there was a pair of ftorks arrived, but, fays 
 the man, Sir, what is very ftrange, I can- 
 not keep them out of my kitchen, if I 
 
 drive
 
 ( 4* ) 
 typrt them away they will return imme- 
 diately, and will be in the houfe conti- 
 nually ; really, Sir, added the man, I 
 Cannot for my life help thinking that 
 they are the very ftorks bred here lair, year. 
 Brookes arriving fome time after, Mr. 
 Echardt mentioned the thing to him, and 
 he writing to enquire of the perfon he had 
 fold them to, received for anfwer that the 
 ftorks had actually flown away at that time, 
 and that they had not heard of them fince. 
 Tuefday, May the 1 7th. I was much 
 lamer. Mr. Charles Bentinck fat with me 
 mod; of the morning. As foon as I ha4 
 dined I went to fee the review of the Putcr* 
 guards, commanded by Duke Louis. I 
 overtook the Princefs of Orange who went; 
 with great pomp. In the fjrft went three 
 hambellans in a coach and fix, tfren 3 
 very fine gilt coach with fix horfes, crim- 
 fon velvet and gold trappings, the Princefs 
 alone followed by the horfe guards ; then 
 her ladies in a moll: elegant pea-green coach, 
 drawn by fix grey horfes, and then another 
 
 coach
 
 ( 43 J 
 coach with Chambellans. There was a 
 tent pitched, to which every body of 
 faihion, who had legs to carry them to it, 
 were admitted. The regiment is of two 
 J)attallions, which are very numerous. 
 The Duke marched and wheeled with 
 them with great alacrity for a man of his 
 bulk, which however, caufed him to per- 
 fpire fo copioufly, that he was not only 
 wet through all his cloaths, but even his 
 iafli, and he was obliged, during his exer- 
 qife, to change his wig eight times. He 
 has a conftitution robuft to a degree. The 
 Prince of Orange did me the honour to 
 ftay a long time converfjng with me by 
 my coach fide; and after the review I was 
 defired by the Princefs to approach the 
 tent, from which me came out to fpeak to 
 me. The regiment was really compofed 
 of fine men, but I think they are flower 
 than the Englifh in their evolutions. 
 
 Saturday, May the 1 8th. I had only a 
 vifit from Monfier d'Abling. In the af- 
 ternoon I went to the review of the Swifs 
 
 guards.
 
 ( 44 ) 
 
 guards, who are commanded by General 
 Sandoz. The Prince always on thefe 
 occafions walks along the line bare-headed, 
 with his hat in his hand ; but his twelve 
 aids du camp, and the rell of his fuite are 
 always all covered. As foon as he had dis- 
 mounted he came civilly to fpeak to me, 
 I had afterwards vifits at my coach fide 
 from our Ambaffador, Monfieur Heyden ? 
 Colonel Reynft, Count Bentinck, a young 
 Captain Bentinck, Dr. Richardfon, Mon- 
 fieur Bigot, and Monfieur Perponcher. 
 The Prince and Princels fent the Baron de 
 Voigt, Grand Marechal de la Cour, to 
 offer me any kind of refrefhment, and tho' 
 I declined it, a page came immediately 
 after with gaufres and lemonade; and after 
 the review was over, the Prince and Prin-. 
 cefs did me the honour to walk from their 
 tent to my coach fide to fpeak to me, as 
 did afterwards Duke Louis, who was won- 
 derfully gracious and pleafant. I next hacj 
 Prince Frederick of Hefle CafTell, and 
 Madame de Cordon. The Swifs guards 
 
 per-
 
 ( 45 5 
 
 performed much quicker and better than 
 the Dutch did the day before. When I 
 went home I found an invitation from their 
 Royal and Serene Highnefles to fup with 
 them the next night. . I heard of the ar- 
 rival of the Princefs of Hefle Philipftahl, 
 wife to the Count Dyfenbourg. My vi- 
 siters were Sir Jofeph, Mademoifelle Hen- 
 nenoort, Madame Boetflaar, Mademoifelle 
 Brantzebourg, and little Bouwens. 
 
 Whitfunday, May the 19th. I received 
 letters from Lord Algernon and Mr. Du- 
 tens. I went to Scheveling fair, where 
 I faw few people and no merchandize but 
 gingerbread. In the evening my vifiters 
 were Sir Jofeph, Madame Cordon, Dr. 
 Richardfon, Duke Louis of Brunfwick, 
 Prince Frederick of Hefle CafTel, Manchel- 
 mann, Mademoifelle Bigot, Prince Au- 
 guftus of Saxe Gotha, Monfieur dc Saugy, 
 and Monfieur Creutzberg. 
 
 Wednelday, May the 20th. I had ano- 
 ther letter from Mr. Dutens. Ti/.zey and 
 I took an airing in the wood, where I met 
 
 Mc/Tieurtj
 
 ( 4 ) 
 
 Me/iieurs Conftant and Berkenrode walk- 
 ing. The wood was in high beauty, ex- 
 ceffively wild, and quite filled with night- 
 ingales. There are in it fome very fine 
 large beach and elms. The Prince of 
 Orange's houfe here {lands in a fquare 
 ifland, two fides of it are flanked by the 
 wood, the third is an open grove, the 
 fourth rich extended paftures, fullofhorfes 
 and cattle ; the whole is furrounded by a 
 broad, clear moat, which has next it a 
 gravel walk, and within that a neat clipped 
 hornbean hedge. The houfe was built by 
 King William, and has the form of a kind 
 of pavilion, furmounted by the Prince's 
 crown gilt. It has nine windows in the 
 front of the body of the houfe, which is 
 joined by two femi-circular wings, which 
 have each twelve windows in front. In 
 the evening Lord Algernon and Mr. Du- 
 tens arrived from Amfterdam. My vifiters 
 were our own and the French Ambaffador, 
 Madame de Rofendahl, Madame Boetflaar, 
 and little Bouwens, 
 
 Tuefday,
 
 ( 47 ) 
 
 Tuefday, May the 21ft. I carried Lord 
 Algernon and Mr. Dutens to Schevelin, 
 and in my return fet my gentlemen and 
 Tizzey down at Zorgvliet, to take a walk 
 in Count Bentinck's gardens, with which 
 they feemed much pieafed. I came home 
 and was vifited by Mademoifelle Henne- 
 rroort, and the Princefs of Hefle Philip- 
 ftahl, wife of the Comte de Ifemburg Rei- 
 dingin ; fhe feems a very chearful, co;i- 
 verfible woman. I faw her three years ago 
 at Hanan. I went in the evening with. 
 my two gentlemen to fee the review, and 
 had a great deal of company at my coach 
 fide. The Prince of Orange was at the 
 head of a very fine corps, all formed and 
 and trained by himfelf. This Prince has 
 admirable parts, an excellent memory, and 
 an admirable fund of good nature. Ma- 
 dame Cordon's clog, Medor, infilled on 
 fitting in the coach with me, to the great 
 difcompofure of Tizzey. After the re- 
 view the Prince and Princefs both made 
 me a vifit at my coach door. 
 
 Wed-
 
 ( 48 ) 
 
 Wednefday, May the 2 2d. I went, and 
 before the company came got myfelf placed 
 in the tent to fee the review of the Dutch 
 guards, commanded by the Prince of Wei 1- 
 bourg. Every body was very kind and 
 civil to me. The Princefs fed Tizzey, 
 but the firing quite fpoiled her appetite* 
 I fat in the tent a long while after all was 
 over, converfing with Duke Louis, and 
 then returned home and received fome vi- 
 fits; amongft others, the hereditary Prince 
 of Hefle Darmftadt, who drank tea with 
 me. 
 
 Thurfday, May the 23d. I fet out tete 
 a tete with/Tizzey to fee the exercife. It 
 is very lingular, but me is not fo much 
 afraid of the cannon as me is of the fmall 
 arms. We had a noble army to reveiw. 
 The Prince of Orange's guardes du corps, 
 256 effective men ; Maefdams dragoons, 
 269 ; the Prince of Weilbourg's horfe, 
 270 ; Dutch foot guards, commanded by 
 Duke Louis, 1400; Swifs ditto, com- 
 manded by General Sandoz, 1200 ; in all 
 
 3395
 
 ( 49 ) 
 
 3395 men * At my arrival home I found 
 an invitation to flip and fpend the evening 
 at the French Ambaflador's, but was 
 obliged to fend an excufe, as I am ftill in 
 my gouty (hoe, and am but jufl beginning 
 to traverfe my room with one flick. I 
 was vifked by Mr. Charles Bentinck and 
 Sir Jofeph in the forenoon. After dinner 
 I was lucky enough to find fome valuable 
 plans for Lord Percy, a ring which pleafed 
 Algernon, and a gold headed cane which 
 Mr. Dutens greatly wanted -, after which 
 I took an airing towards Loofduyn, and 
 at my return met the Prince of Weilbourg 
 at the door, who came in and fat with me 
 near two hours. Belides his Serene High* 
 nefs, I had Monfieur and Madame d'Abling, 
 the Marquis dc Cordon, the Greffier Fagel, 
 and Prince Gallitzin, who told me he be- 
 lieved the Czarina had figned the prelimi- 
 naries ot the peace. 
 
 Friday, May the 24th. My gentlemen 
 
 took their leave of the Prince and Princefs. 
 
 I had for vifiters Count and Mr. Charles 
 
 D Ben-
 
 ( 5 ) 
 Bentinck in the morning; and i'n the even- 
 ing I took the air by Ryfwick, and at my 
 return our Ambaflador came and drank tea 
 with mc. 
 
 Saturday, May the 25th. I was awaked 
 by the drums a quarter before four, and as 
 it was light, and my mutters are never 
 fhut, I fat up in my bed, and putting afide 
 my curtain, faw Duke Louis, and his 
 whole corps of 1400 men march by my 
 window. At a quarter before fix Algernon 
 and I got a coach and four, and followed 
 to the fcene of action, which is a very fpa- 
 cious, extended plain covered with heath, 
 flanked on one fide by a little wood, and 
 on the other by fand hills. The multitude 
 of fpectators which covered the latter had 
 a very fine effect. I drove to a large tent 
 pitched for the Princefs and her company. 
 The moft extraordinary circumftance was,. 
 that though I knew there were 4000 fol- 
 diers there, yet there was not one to be 
 feen ; the two armies, one commanded by 
 the Prince of Orange, and the other by 
 
 General
 
 ( 5* ) 
 
 Maefdam, were entirely concealed, the 
 one in the wood, and the other behind the 
 hill. They foon iffued forth and attacked 
 thole in the wood. We had the exact re- 
 prefentation of a compleat battle; and fome- 
 times one had the advantage, and fome- 
 times the other ; we had retreats, rallying, 
 fkirmiming, &c. and at laft one army en- 
 tirely defeated the other. The military 
 people prefent aflured us, that nothing 
 could be reprefented more exactly ; and 
 that, exceping (laughter (I wifh it ever 
 was to be excepted) it was a real battle. 
 The tent in which we were was a great 
 curiofity ; it belonged to King William, 
 and had been prefented to him by ibme 
 town in Flanders ; it is very large, and 
 hung with a very fine callico, on which 
 which was printed allegorical reprefenta- 
 tions of his life and actions, with the por- 
 traits of hi mfclf and Queen Mary, Prince 
 Eugene, Duke of Marlborough, and all 
 the heroes of thofe times. The tables 
 were fpread, and the fervants were con- 
 D 2 tinually
 
 ( 5* ) 
 
 tinually carrying about tea, coffee, choco- 
 late, hot gaufres, paftry of all forts, bread 
 and butter in flices, with cold tongue, ham, 
 Bologna iaufages, hung beef, and veal ; 
 orgeat, lemonade, and variety of forts of 
 wine, and all other kind of liquors. When 
 the battle was over, every officer was in- 
 vited to partake of thofe refreshments, and 
 at the head of every regiment the Prince 
 had ordered tables to be let, and every fol- 
 dier had as much beer, bread and cheefe as 
 he chofe. How often have I known our 
 poor foldiers, of a hot day, marching to 
 Wimbledon Common, going through thek 
 exercife at a review, and then broiling back 
 to London, overcome with heat and fa- 
 tigue, without having tafted a bit or fup ; 
 and how popular would an attention of this 
 kind (the expence of which would be very 
 trifling) make our King. I was made very 
 much of by every body ; but I felt the 
 ground too damp for me as I fat, and there 
 was no getting back (for fuch a lame poor 
 wretch as myfelf) to my coach till all was 
 
 over
 
 ( 53 ) 
 over, which was not till half an hour paft 
 eleven o'clock. The Hereditary Prince of 
 Nafiau Ufinghen arrived the night before, 
 and was prefentcd to me by the Prince of 
 Orange. After dinner, by appointment, I 
 I went to fee the little Princefs Louife, who, 
 in companion to my lamenefs, was brought 
 down to Madame Danchalmann's apart- 
 ments for that purpofe, which is on the 
 ground floor, and the Princefs was fo gra- 
 cious as to be there herfelf to receive me 
 with her daughter in her lap. She looked 
 charmingly ; the child is mighty pretty, 
 lively, and good-humoured. I frayed an 
 hour and a quarter and then took my 
 leave; and flopping at the doors of Duke 
 Louis, the Princes of Darmftadt, Weil- 
 bonrg, Frederic of Hefle Caflcl, the Prince 
 of Saxe Gotha, and the Princefs of Philip- 
 ftahl, I left my cards of thanks. I came home 
 fatigued to death, which I attributed to 
 rifmg fo early ; but about one o'clock in 
 the morning I was obliged to call up my 
 women, being taken with faintings and 
 D 3 fickr
 
 ( 54 ) 
 
 ficknefs in my ftomach, which, I ana 
 convinced, proceeded from the dampnefs 
 of the earth in the morning ; and feeling 
 the gout, I took fome Eau des Caumes, 
 which rather did me good, hut I continued 
 very indifferent all night. 
 
 Sunday, May the 26th. Ijrofe far from 
 well. This morning my gentlemen went 
 to church, and Tizzey and I, after hav- 
 ing left a card of thanks at the Ambaffa- 
 dor's, took an airing towards Hontflardyke. 
 They have an odd cuftom here of cutting 
 fodds and laying them very near one ano- 
 ther (but not fo as to touch) upon the roads, 
 to prevent the carriages from hurting the 
 pavements. I continued very poorly all 
 day. Before we had eat our defert, the 
 Hereditary Prince of Heffe Darmfradt, and 
 the Baron deRathfhemhaufen came in, and 
 frayed and drank tea with us ; I had no 
 vifiters afterwards but Sir Jofeph. I went 
 to bed early, and took fome gout cordial, 
 which I believe did me fome good. 
 
 Mon-
 
 ( 55 ) 
 Monday, May the 27th. This morn- 
 Jbetween fix and feven, Algernon, with 
 young Bigot, walked on foot, and Mr. 
 Dutens and I in my coach, let out 
 for the place d'exercife, but I was too pru- 
 dent to get out of my coach this time. 
 All things went on extremely well till 
 after one fire, every thing flopped fhort at 
 once. As I was at a di fiance I could not 
 guefs for fic-me time what was the mean- 
 ing ; every thing was at a total ftand, and 
 there feemed to be the utmoff. confufion, 
 this was occasioned by balls being fhot 
 out of fome of the pieces, two of which 
 went through a pioneer's apron, and the 
 /kirt of another man's coat ; and the third 
 wounded Mr. Pickedczocller, an officer, 
 very dangeroufly in the groin, as he flood 
 next Duke Louis, for whom the favour 
 was undoubtedly defigned, as lie is amaz- 
 ingly hated by all the people. The fat 
 man was horribly frightened, and the run- 
 ning footman cried out, the foldiers meant 
 to ailaflinate their matter -, and that the coup 
 D 4 was
 
 ( 56 ) 
 
 was meant for him. A total flop was put 
 to the whole, and every one returned home 
 ruminating on this flrange affair. In the 
 evening Lord Algernon and I rode round 
 the town, leaving our refpective cards, 
 mine of thanks, and his pour prendre 
 conge ; and afterwards, as there were not 
 above fix fteps to afcend, and thofe very 
 eafy ones, I ventured myfelf, tete a tete, 
 with him to the play. It was a piece 
 which all the members of the gaming club 
 ought to fee, called, Le Joueur Anglois. 
 We did not get thefe till the fourth act ; 
 the petit piece after it was, La Gageure 
 Improveu, which is very droll. 
 
 Tuefday, May the 28. This morning 
 I breakfafted with my gentlemen, and 
 Mr. Francis Bigot; and at twelve I carried 
 my dear Algernon and Mr. Dutens in my 
 coach, about two miles of their road, to 
 which place they had, at my requeft, fent 
 their poft-chaife, that I might have their 
 company a little longer. And I here took 
 my leave of them, very much hurt at not 
 
 being
 
 ( 57 ) 
 able to accompany them. They proceeded 
 to Delft, and I returned to the Hague. I 
 think my fleepinefs juft the fame as it ufed 
 to be, fo I fear I have no reaibn to expect 
 the gout will cure it ; if fo how cruel were 
 the people, to wifli me joy of fuch an addi- 
 tion to my other complaints. This morn- 
 ing an order was ifYued out, that no officer 
 or foldier fhould prefume to mention, in 
 any manner, the tranfaclion on the plain 
 yefterday, in order, as it is faid, to prevent 
 quarrels ; and yet this is a free country I 
 I wonder how the Englifh would reliih a 
 proclamation to forbid their talking on any 
 fubject. whatever. It is certain this affair 
 is not an agreeable one, as it is an un- 
 doubted fact that there were more balls 
 fired than one. I dined quite in folitude, 
 and regretted the lofs of my chearful 
 companions. I went in the evening quite 
 alone to the play. The Princefs was at 
 the play, and fo were the Princes of Weil- 
 bourg, HcfYe Darmfradt, Saxe Gotha, and 
 the Princefs of d' Yflcmbourg. The Prince 
 
 of
 
 ( 5 ) 
 
 of Weilbourg came and charitably fat by 
 me. The Prince Frederick of Heffe Caf- 
 fel, and the Prince of Naflau Ufmghen, are 
 gone to join their refpective regiments. 
 The play was Du Puis and Des Ronais, 
 rather too larmoyant if not better acted. 
 It was followed by a delightful comic 
 opera, called Le Deux Avares. The 
 march of the guards du Police of Smyrna 
 is quite charming. 
 
 Wednefday, May the 29th. I took an 
 airing in the wood, and hired a running 
 footman (Frederick Oleander) received vi- 
 sits from our Ambaflador, Madame de 
 Schuvlemberg, Mr. Charles Bentinck, anc] 
 both the Mademoifelles Bigots ; and in the 
 evening I went through an immenfe fa- 
 tigue, I put on a hoop for the firfl time 
 this month; I went to the old Court by the 
 back way, and then went into Mademoi- 
 felle Bigot's appartments, which is on the 
 ground floor. Here I met the Princefs of 
 Yflembourg, and after having fat near 
 three quarters of an hour, I undertook to 
 
 get
 
 ( 59 ) 
 get up to the drawing-room (a long gal- 
 lery, in which the Princefs always receives 
 company). I was a molt pitiable object 
 with my {tick, my gouty fhoe, and my 
 worfled flocking, (not one of which I was 
 able to caft) hobling up flairs before four 
 hundred fpectators ; however, by the afiifl- 
 ance of the good-natured Prince of Weil- 
 bourg, and the rail of the flairs, I did ac- 
 chieve the very great exploit, and at lafl 
 arrived at a chair in the gallery, from 
 which I only role to anfwer the Princefs 
 whilft fhe fpoke to me ; it was a great ef- 
 fort, but after all the civilities I had re- 
 ceived from her and the Prince, I thought 
 I could do no lefs than appear, with the 
 reft of the world, to wifh them a good 
 journey. I after that played at Berlan with 
 her Royal Highnefs Prince Gallitzin, Sir 
 Jofeph Yorkc, the Princefs of Heffe Phi- 
 lipftahl, and the French Ambaflador. I 
 was greatly furprized at being told by the 
 Princefs, that fhe had received that morn- 
 ing a letter from the King of Pruflia, 
 
 wherein
 
 ( 6o ) 
 
 wherein he told her that he heaid I was 
 at the Hague, and denred me would 
 make her compliments to me, and 
 tell me that he had feen my fon, et 
 qu'il en etoit tres content. This was 
 a great honour for us both, from a 
 monarch who, laft fummer, did not even 
 ipeak to a moft amiable Royal Perfonage, 
 brother to a great King, and one of his 
 own neareft relations, I mean the Duke of 
 Gloucefter. I won forty-one fim. The 
 circle was very brilliant. I took leave 
 after cards of both the Prince and Princefs 
 (who are not to return to the Hague till 
 October). I came home tired to death. 
 
 Thurfday, May the 30th. I frayed at 
 home alone till noon, being very bad with 
 the gravel. I then went out a little 
 towards Schevelling, but got no relief. 
 We had a violent frorm of thunder, light- 
 ning, wind, and rain. The Prince of 
 Weilbourg came to vifit me after dinner, 
 and as foon as he was gone I went to the 
 comedie ; it was very full on account 
 
 of
 
 ( 6i ) 
 
 of Suzette, the firft, finger at BrmTels, 
 being come, and performing in two of the 
 pieces. We had again Les Deux Avares, 
 which I liked ftill better than before, Le 
 Tableau, parlant et Lucelle. The Prince 
 and Princefs were there, and both took a 
 very ciyil leave of me when they went out. 
 They leave the Hague to-morrow) for the 
 fummer) their family and Princefs Louife, 
 their pretty little child, fet out this morn- 
 ing. It was eleven o'clock before it was 
 over, and t was to have gone to Madame 
 de Boetflaar's affembly afterwards, but I 
 was too much tired to do any thing but go 
 to bed. 
 
 Friday, May the 21ft. The Prince of 
 Orange fet out with the Prince of Saxe 
 Gotha, at two o'clock in the morning, for 
 his progrefs. He propofes getting to Breda 
 to night, where he will ftay four or five 
 days, and then proceed to Bois le Due 
 (where Duke Louis, who is Governor of 
 the place, is fet forward this morning to 
 receive and lodge him during his flay 
 
 there
 
 ( 6z ) 
 
 there^ Bergen op Zoom, Maeftrick, Na-* 
 mur, and feveral other places, which, ex- 
 cept Breda, he has never {ecn before* 
 The Princefs fet out at four, and intends 
 being at Loo to night ; it is ninety-fix 
 miles, which, as the road is moftly a deep 
 fand, and fhe does not travel poft, is a hard 
 day's journey. At half an hour pari: two 
 (noon) Monfieur d'Abling, his wife and 
 daughter, came in their coach and carried 
 me to the Greffier's (Monfieur Fagel) houfe 
 in the country to dinner. It is not much 
 farther from the Hague than the Duke 
 of Kingfton's is from London. The houfe 
 ftands very delightfully in the middle of a 
 garden; itisveryfmall, neat and convenient. 
 We had a handfbme, and the very bell: 
 eating dinner I ever met with ; at firft, 
 only two foups, an admirable turbot, and 
 foles as fmall as Thames flounders, but ftill 
 better tafted ; thefe were at the bottom ; 
 the turbot en haut ; the foups on the fides, 
 all divided by four fauce-boats. The next 
 courfe confifted of nine dimes, all for eat- 
 ing
 
 ( 6 3 ) 
 
 ing, and none for fhew. I believe I can 
 remember them all, though not in the 
 order they ftood ; there were petite pates 
 of fhrimps, tongue with fpinach, chickens 
 boiled with cauliflowers, roaft beef, a New- 
 market pudding, a loin of veal a la creme, 
 a goofe aux petite poix, a fricandoe, and 
 a pye in the middle. The next courie 
 was of eleven, but I only remember cold 
 ham in different coloured jellies in the 
 middle, afparagus, excellent turkey poults 
 larded, green peafe, the firft I have feen, 
 a fowl roafted, gateaux de Bologne, jellies, 
 two more difhes of paltry, and two of le- 
 gumes. The whole concluded with a 
 grand defert, admirable ice and ftrawber- 
 ries, and the belt, wines of every kind, 
 Tokay, Burgundy, Vin de St. George, 
 Rhenim, red and white, Gape, Malmfey, 
 Madeira, Claret, Champagne (which I 
 had more grace than to tafte) Chalby, 
 Cyprus, and Mofelle. The company were, 
 myfelf, Monfieur and Madame d'Abling, 
 Monfieur and Madame Boetflaar, Made- 
 
 moifelle
 
 ( 64 ) 
 
 moifelle Hennenoort, our Ambaffador, the 
 GrefEer himfelf, Monfieur and Madame 
 Fagel, his daughter aud fon in law. Mon- 
 fieur Boctflaar went away the minute din- 
 ner was over, but the reft of us, as foon 
 as we had drank coffee, fet out to fee his 
 plantations. Madame Boetflaar, and Ma- 
 dame Fagel went together in a one horfe 
 chair, and I and Madame d'Abling, in a 
 horrid two wheeled vehicle, which fhut 
 up before juft like the Englifh two wheeled 
 poft chaifes ; the getting in and out of it, 
 though I had all the gentlemen and foot- 
 men, and my {tick and a chair to affift 
 me, put my foot to abominable pain. I 
 really think I fprained every nerve in it. 
 The others walked. The grounds are pret- 
 tily laid out, and the trees are all in a 
 thriving, flourifhing flate. The road is 
 very agreeable ; on each fide, for great 
 part of the way, it is ferpentine, between 
 very neat green enclofures, which are en- 
 clofed on all their other fides with woods, 
 and divided from the road by broad 
 
 clear
 
 ( *5 ) 
 
 clear canals ; the middle part of the road, 
 defigned for coaches, is grafs with gravel 
 walks on each fide, and a row of trees 
 again between thefe and the canals. We 
 came firft to a little place which he has 
 bought to enlarge his demefne ; he has 
 pulled down the houfe, and left one room 
 only juft to drink tea in, and a ftable and 
 fome other neceffary conveniences. Here 
 we drank tea, and then proceeding a little 
 way through a very pretty plantation, now 
 grown almoft to woods, we came out upon 
 the Dunes, a wide extended plain bounded 
 on two fides by woods, and on the other by 
 hills of fand ; the whole ground is almoft 
 entirely covered with heart's-eafe. On one '" 
 of the higheft of thefe, but almoft in the 
 centre, the GrefTier has erected his gloriette 
 (a much prettier name than gazebo) it is an 
 octagon, and exactly in the fame form (with 
 the Winds painted on it) of the Temple of 
 the Winds at Athens. The profpect from 
 it is admirable ; beyond the Dunes on one 
 fide you have an unbounded view of the fca, 
 E with
 
 ( 66 ) 
 
 variety of boats and fhipping, and the 
 church of Scheveling ; the other way you 
 have woods, and the Hague looking as tho' 
 it rofeout of them, and Delft ; the other, 
 and the fineft object of all, is the city of 
 Leydeu ; upon the whole it is a charming 
 profpect, and fuch a one as I could hardly 
 believe it poflible to have in fo flat a country. 
 I went afterwards to Mademoifelle Henne- 
 noort's, and played at Berlan with Madame 
 Boetflaar, Madame Bouwens, Monfieur 
 d'Abling, and Sir Jofeph Yorke, and then 
 came home moll: miferably lame, by get- 
 ting in and out of that abominable chaife, 
 which I really think has thrown me back 
 a week. 
 
 Saturday, June the ift. I took an air- 
 ing quite alone to Voorburg, and in the 
 evening went to the theatre. The three 
 pieces were La Servante Maitrefle, Le 
 Financier Role, and Colas. I carried 
 to the French AmbafTador's in my coach, 
 Madame d'Abling. The Ambafladrefs 
 received me, as fhe does all the world, 
 
 with
 
 ( 67 ) 
 
 with the moil: chilling coldnefs ; but her 
 hufoand's behaviour was quite agreeable, 
 proper, and polite. I played at Berlan with 
 Sir Jofeph Yorke, Monfieur De Noailles 
 himfelf, Madame Boetflaar, the Princefs 
 d'Yfembourg, and Madame deBologne, the 
 Ambaffadrefs's aunt, who with four other 
 people, is arrived here on a vifit to them 
 from Paris ; fhe is a ftarched, prim, baw- 
 ling lady of the finance. The fupper was 
 ferved upon a vafl table of forty-four covers; 
 we were forty-two that fat down at it ; the 
 frames in the middle were five in breadth, 
 and almoft, filled the whole table. The 
 centre was a very handfome temple, but 
 difgraced by a toy of clock-work, of a 
 thing in England called a merry-go-round, 
 I really kuow no other name for it ; there 
 were alfb two efcarpolettes, and two chaifes 
 volantes, which all whifked about the whole 
 time, and made me quite giddy. The 
 whole ornament, except fome paltry, arti- 
 ficial flowers, was executed in white to imi- 
 tate the Seve China. The fervants in gene- 
 E % ral
 
 ( 68 ) 
 
 ral we're ill-looking and aukward . There was 
 hardly any thing eatable except chickens, 
 and they were frowfy ; there was no va- 
 riety, but the fame dirties repeated over and 
 over again. The wines were execrable. I 
 afked for Vm de Grave, and they gave 
 me fomething as thick as water gruel, and 
 as four as verjuice; in fhort, I liked no- 
 thing in the houfe but the matter, and he 
 really is very pleafing in his figure, and 
 very engaging, modeft, and polite. 
 
 Sunday, June the 2d. I was fb lame 
 that I was not able to go to Sir Jofeph 
 Yorke's chapel, but took an airing by Mon- 
 fieur Fagei's country houfe. I went after din- 
 ner to make fome vifits, pour prendre conge, 
 and after that to Madame de Cordon's, where 
 there were only three tables, a whift, a Ber- 
 lan, and a reverlis. I played at the the fecond 
 with Madame d'Abling, Madame de Boetf- 
 laar, our AmbafTador, and MonfieurLarrey. 
 We were but lixteen of us all ; we ftayed 
 to fupper, which was quite eafy and chear- 
 ful, but my foot pained me fadly the whole 
 
 time*
 
 ( *9 ) 
 
 tune. Our fupper was fourteen frnall 
 dimes; and every thing was in the highefl 
 perfection. 
 
 Monday, June the 3d. I had quite a 
 frefh attack of the gout, which reduced 
 me to my two flicks again. I went to take 
 the air in the wood, and when I came home 
 my foot grew into fo very great pain (it 
 certainly was a frefh attack of the gout) 
 that it was impoflible for me to go to the 
 play, which I had fet my heart on doing ; 
 but as Mademoifelle Hennenoort has not 
 one flep on the outfide of her door, and 
 that the room that fhe plays cards in is 
 clofe to the houfe door, I made a fhift, by 
 the help of my two flicks, to hobble from 
 the coach, out of which the footman lifted 
 me, to the Berlan, where I played (though 
 in great pain all the time) with the Princefs 
 of HefTe' Phiiipflahl, Sir Jofeph Yorke, 
 Colonel Saumaifc, and Madame de Boetf- 
 laar, and won feventeen pence. I had a 
 very unealy night, the gout flying all over 
 me, fometimes in my flomach, my ancle, 
 my foot, my head, and my wrifl. 
 
 E 3 Tuefday a
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 Tuefday, June the 4th. I bought fome 
 pictures, and amongft others my beft Te- 
 niers. I went at night to the ball given 
 by our Ambaffador in honour of the day. 
 He had broke out the windows of his draw- 
 ing room into the garden, and had fome 
 peripective paintings, which had a very 
 good effect, and were contrived for an or- 
 cheftra of mufic. The Ambaffador opened 
 the ball with the French Amba0adrefs, 
 who really dances very well ; the fe- 
 cond with the Frincefs of Philipftahl ; 
 there were feveral more minuets, and after 
 thofe, both French and Englifh country 
 dances. The windows of the room were 
 taken out into the garden, decorated with 
 architecture, painted in perfpetive, and 
 feftoons of flowers ; and the band of mufic 
 were all firft-rate performers. I did not 
 ftay to fup, but as I went out I took a 
 peep and faw the firft courfe, before the 
 company went into the gallery, which 
 being narrow the table would only admit 
 of one row of frames down the centre of it, 
 
 which
 
 ( 7i ) 
 
 which was a pity, as the confectioner was 
 a very good one, and it cramped his genius. 
 Thefe frames together were an hundred feet 
 in length. The defert was allegorical in 
 honour of the King ; the figures were as 
 well modelled, and as fharp as any of the 
 bifcuit China. Thefe frames were fur- 
 rounded by a fmgle row of dimes, in num- 
 ber eighty (there were to be feveral removes, 
 befides a fecond courfe and a defert) one of 
 which was a gold China pheafant ; there 
 were indeed rarities of all kinds. This 
 table was of 84 covers ; there were three 
 others, ferved in the fame manner, one of 
 fixty, and two others of forty each, befide 
 others on which were cold pyes, pickled 
 falmon and fturgeon, cold chickens, tur- 
 kies, tongues, veal, hams, beef, mutton, 
 potted things, plovers, eggs, radifhes, olives, 
 &c. for a fcramble, for fuch as could find no 
 room to fit down to the other tables ; and 
 in the balcony above the gallery, were a band 
 of mufic, who were to play during fupper. 
 After this review I went foberly home to bed, 
 E 4 Wed-.
 
 ( 7* ) 
 
 Wednefday, June the 5th. The Hague 
 is quite deferted. By the return of the com- 
 mandant, no lei's than 4900 perfons, exclu- 
 sive of foldiers, left the Hague between 
 Tuefday morning and Saturday evening. 
 As I was by no means well enough to take a 
 journey to Antwerp by land, andyetwifhed to 
 follow Algernon, I endeavoured to borrow 
 the States yatcht (in which I have gone twice 
 to the Moerdyk) to carry me quite to Ant- 
 werp ; but the States were out in her them- 
 felves, fo I could not have it, which the 
 Prince of Orange having heard, very oblig- 
 ingly offered me his. In confequence of 
 which I left the Hague in my poft-chaife, 
 at eleven o'clock, and immediately on my 
 arrival at Rotterdam, at half pan 1 one, went 
 on board the yacht and eat my dinner. A 
 moment after it w T as over, Mifs Wolters, 
 Mr. Wolters's eldeft. daughter (a very 
 pretty girl about thirteen years old) came 
 on board with her governefs to pay me 
 a viiit. At four we got under fail, 
 and upon my ordering a falute to the 
 
 city
 
 ( 73 ) 
 
 city of Rotterdam, my chambermaid, Can-, 
 non, and Tizzey, were both fo terrified 
 with the mock it gave the yatcht, that 
 they both came tumbling over me as if 
 they had been mot ; I really was afraid 
 tkey would have demolifhed me. In mercy 
 to poor Ifabella's fears, I fent her with 
 James, Auguftus, the berlin, and pofr- 
 chaife, by land, kept with myfelf only 
 Tizzey, Cannon, Vilet, Price, Jo}m Bell, 
 and Frederick. As the weather was de- 
 lightful, I fat reading upon deck till feven, 
 and then retired to my cabin, fupped at nine, 
 and went to bed at eleven. 
 
 Thurfday, June the 6th. I rofe at half 
 pad feven, we were then off Williamftadt ; 
 it foon after turned a calm, but the por- 
 poifes being very full of play, rolling their 
 great, clumfycarcafes about at a ftrange rate, 
 promifed rougher weather. At one o'clock 
 we got to the mouth of the river which 
 leads up to Breda ; a briik gale arofe about 
 two, and in lefs than half an hour chopped 
 about in our teeth. At a little before five 
 
 we
 
 ( 74 ) 
 
 we got into the province of Zealand by a 
 little village, where all veflcls (except the 
 Prince of Orange's) pay a toll towards main r 
 raining three beacons here erected ; and 
 there is alfo a battery of feven guns to per- 
 fuade them into compliance. At about 
 eight we came in fight of Bergen op Zoom, 
 where we dropped anchor, propofing to fail 
 again" early next morning. 
 
 Friday, June the 7th. We got under 
 fail by four o'clock, and got oppofite to 
 Lillo about eight ; here we were faluted by 
 the fort, to the great and utter difmay of 
 Tizzy and Cannon; but a fecond falute had 
 like to have turned this comedy into a tra- 
 gedy, for I really thought I mould have loft 
 my poor little affectionate dog, for giving 
 a fhriek (he fell into the moft dreadful con- 
 vulfions I ever law, and we none of us ex- 
 pected fhe would come alive out of them ; 
 and when flie did, her terrors were fo great^ 
 hiding herfelf, and not willing to come tq 
 any of us, that I verily thought it would 
 have drove her mad. We got to Antwerp 
 
 abou t
 
 ( 75 ) 
 
 about twelve, and they were preparing for 
 another falute, but I gave them money to 
 difpenfe with that ceremony, which, I am 
 convinced, would have proved a coup de 
 grace to Mademoifelle Thifbe. I dined on 
 board, and then landed and got to my lodg- 
 ings about two. At five I took my chariot 
 and drove about the town, the port, and 
 the citadel, and then came home again. J 
 was taken very ill in the night. 
 
 Saturday, June the 8th. I continued fb 
 ill that I did not rife till noon, nor flir out 
 till five, and then drove out of the port St. 
 George to a neat little village called Ber- 
 chan, and in going and returning paiTed 
 by a great many pretty looking villas, and 
 neat gardens. 
 
 Sunday, June the 9th. At Antwerp I 
 found myfelf a good deal better, and drove 
 to fee a very fmall proceflion, which {et off 
 from the Abbey St. Michael in the follow- 
 ing order : firft, a man alone bearing 3 
 torch ; then two men ftrewing flowers ; 
 then a number of men and boys, two and 
 
 * wo;
 
 ( 7* ) 
 
 jtwo ; then a banner of St. Michael painted 
 iky blue, with gold fringes ; then a number 
 of men, two and two, beating torches; next 
 a band of balloons and hautboys, followed 
 by more torch bearers ; but thefe laft had 
 fmall filver badges ; at the bottom of their 
 torches there was borne the crucifix ; then 
 came the chanoines, two and two, in very 
 rich copes; and immediately after them came 
 the Abbe in a very fine white and gold cope, 
 bearing the bon Dieu under a dais of crim- 
 fon velvet, laced and fringed with gold ; 
 and after this the proceffion was clofed by 
 the populace. During the time it pafled, 
 all the people of every rank kneeled down 
 in the ftreets, which were all hung with 
 tapeftry, filk, cloth, linen, pictures, &c. 
 and illuminated with torches, adorned with 
 foliages, and the images at the angles of the 
 ftreet, had little banners embroidered with 
 . gold ftuck round them. I faw but one re- 
 pofoir, the outfide of which was entirely com- 
 pofed of the green branches of trees, but the 
 iiJide was very fine, and decorated with pic- 
 * * tures
 
 ( 77 ) 
 
 tures,orangetrees,andagreatdealoffilverand 
 gilt plate. I drove to the Efplanade, which 
 is a fpacious green plain adjacent to the ci- 
 tadel, and furrounded by walks of trees ; 
 after which T went into St. Michael's abbey 
 yard, over the gate of which is a coloflal 
 ftatue of that faint ; there are mufic bells 
 (like thofe at Edinburgh) at this church, 
 which played all the time harmoniouily. I 
 returned home to dine, and in the afternoon 
 drove about the town (which is of an Im- 
 menfe fize) for two hours. I have always 
 remarked that there are fome ft range incon- 
 liftencies in this fine town ; if you fee 
 the ftreets and ftiops, you would fuppofe 
 it very thinly inhabited ; but obferve 
 the churches, and you would think it un- 
 commonly populous. The people, by this, 
 One fuppofes are religious, yet the common 
 people are the moll: infolent and pilfering 
 that can be met with. The ladies drefs 
 their heads better than in any other place, 
 yet there are no aflemblies; nothing can be 
 more elegant and cxpenfive than their equi- 
 pages,
 
 C ;8 ) 
 
 pages, and yet there is nobody to fee them. 
 Very odd ! I came home quite overcome with 
 heat, fettled my accounts, played on my 
 flute, eat fome peas, and went to bed. 
 
 Monday, the ioth of June. I took an 
 airing, firft by the Scheld fide, and after 
 through plantations, &c. quite beautiful* 
 I returned by the herb market, where there 
 was a profufion of legumes. It is very An- 
 gular, that in a place fo noted for garden- 
 fluff, one never fees a fingle flower. I came 
 home and dined, and in the afternoon Mr. 
 Lee, of Bath, and a variety of other lodgers, 
 arrived here. I went and made Mrs. Blount 
 a vifit. I found her looking frefh and healthy, 
 and her converfation lively, polite, and 
 chearful ; fhe prefented me ,with a little 
 ftraw toilet. I then called home and took 
 out Tizzey, and we took an airing to the 
 eaft of the town, quite like a garden. Soon 
 after I had a vifit from the Marquis deBel- 
 legarde, who was juft arrived, and propofed 
 going away the next morning. The heat 
 was exceffive, 
 
 Tuefday,
 
 ( 79 ) 
 
 Tuefday, June the nth. Hotter than 
 ever. I had a vifit from Mr. Lee ; from 
 thence I went to Mr. de Pehfters, where 
 I was fool enough to buy four pic~lure3, and 
 and faw another which I longed for, but 
 could not afford it. It was too hot to flay 
 out, fo I returned directly home to my lodg- 
 ings again. Compliments from Lord Find- 
 later and two of my fellow lodgers, who 
 wanted to borrow a news-paper. After- 
 noon ; thunder and lightening. I took a 
 pleafant airing, and when I came home my 
 fellow lodgers fent me word that the Queen 
 was brought to bed of a Prince. About 
 ten o'clock at night, as I was fitting in my 
 room (which is on the ground floor next 
 the itreet) writing, Tizzey, who fat on the 
 chair by me, all at once flew to the window 
 with the utmoft fury ; this made me look 
 up, and I was not a little furprized to fee 
 a man's leg and thigh, and half his body, 
 got in at my window (which, to mend the 
 matter, was between me and the bell). I 
 ftarted up, on which he withdrawing, 
 
 fet
 
 ( 8 ) 
 
 let himfelf down on his feet upon the 
 pavement (by which means I was informed, 
 by the found, he had fabots on) and fee- 
 ing him {landing near the window, I afked 
 him what he wanted, and at the fame time 
 rung the bell ; but my fervants not coming, 
 he came nearer, and I verily believe would 
 have got in, had I not providentially heard 
 the waiter in the room actofs the paffage 
 laying the cloth for my fupper. I opened 
 the door and called him, upon which the 
 fellow ran away, and though Philip pur- 
 fued him dire6lly, he efcaped. He had 
 two other fellows with him, who, I fuppole, 
 aflifted him in getting in. I then fupped 
 and went to bed, but the heat was fo 
 great that it made me quite fkk, and 
 would not fufTer me to get any fleep. 
 
 Wednefday, June the 12th. Hotter than 
 ever. I took a jumble about the ftreet for 
 near an hour, and then returned and wrote 
 letters. At two o'clock I went to the houfe 
 of Monfieur de Klerch, a rich diamond mer- 
 chant, to fee his drawing-room, which is 
 
 really
 
 ( ' ) 
 
 really very handfome ; a rich carpet, chairs 
 of Bruflels tapeftry , and the chimney-piece 
 and finishing, which went quite to the 
 top of the room, of marble as black as 
 jet, beautifully decorated with gilt orna- 
 ments, and the cornice covered with fine 
 Drefden china ; the cieling in copart- 
 ments, and the fides of the room painted 
 by Lintz, a young painter, who having 
 made the tour of Italy and Germany, 
 is now fettled at Antwerp. There is one 
 very large piece, two on each fide the 
 chimney, and two on each fide the door, 
 and one over it. They are all part of the 
 life and actions of Bacchus. My favourite 
 is that between the door, and one over the 
 doors, and reprefents Mercury bringing the 
 infant Bacchus to the nymphs to be bred up 
 by them ; the figure of Mercury is rather 
 clumfy, but there is a boy laying on his 
 back, fpawling on the grafs, which is in- 
 finitely beautiful ; and the face of the 
 nymph who receives the young Bacchus, 
 is quite charming, and quite in the Gre- 
 F cian
 
 ( 32 ) 
 
 cian tafte ; and the infant is alfo very well 
 expreffed. The great piece, which covers 
 the whole fide of the room, is the triumph 
 of Bacchus and Ariadne; in this, following 
 the car, is the figure of a fawn dancing, 
 which is immenfely gigantic and out of 
 proportion, but the reft is well and judi- 
 cioufly grouped; there is a nymph dancing 
 before the chariot, beautiful and elegant as 
 po/lible, and a legerte in her figure and dra- 
 pery which is wonderfully pleafing. The 
 car drawn by leopards, and Bacchus and 
 Ariadne in it, are plainly copied from that of 
 Carrache, only with this difference, that 
 here the faces of the god and his miftrefs 
 are handfomer. There is a boy clambering 
 on the back of one of the leopards, which 
 is very well executed. In the pictures on 
 both fides of the chimney are Bacchanals. 
 There is a drunken man and boy in one of 
 them very well expreffed. The other pic- 
 ture befide the door, is Bacchus coming to 
 Ariadne, with a brutifh fatyr in the corner. 
 Over the door are three Bacchanal boys 
 
 with
 
 ( 8 3 ) 
 
 with bunches of grapes, extremely well 
 painted. The faces of all the women are 
 pleafing and delicate, and the flefh of all 
 the figures well coloured, and indeed the 
 drapery and colouring of the whole is good, 
 gay, and light, but not tawdry or glaring. 
 In the evening I had a vifit from the Go- 
 vernor and Mr. Lee ; the former flayed 
 with me two hours. After he was gone I 
 went to Befchey, the painter in Le Rue 
 l'Empereur (for there are three, and there 
 were five brothers of the fame name, all 
 of them painters) but it was fb dark I could 
 fcarce fee any thing. Thofe pidures I 
 wifhed to buy were the Adoration of the 
 Kings, by old Frank ; a converfation by 
 Van Lamen ; a little half length of an old 
 man in a great coat, done by Befchey him- 
 felf ; an old man in a chamber by Ryckaert ; 
 and two of game, 
 
 Thurfday, June the 13th. At nine in 
 morning I went back to Mr. Befchey's, 
 but we did not deal ; he fhewed me, how- 
 ever, a Rubens of Hercules fpinning, and 
 F 2 Omphalc
 
 ( 8 4 ) 
 
 Omphale correcting him for not doing it 
 well. There are five or fix other female 
 figures nearly as large as life ; it is really a 
 fine picture, and fo it ought to be, for he afks 
 1400 guineas for it. From thence I went 
 to another brother of Befchey's in Le Rue 
 d'i^remburg ; I here cheapened a piece of 
 dead game, but he afked too much. I then 
 bid for another, a hermit in his cell, for 
 which he afked {even guineas, and declared 
 he never abated a farthing of what he afked 
 at firft, but upon my calling up my cha- 
 riot he let me have it for four. I then re- 
 turned home, and heard that the Governor 
 and Mr. Lee had been waiting for me fome 
 time. I chopped up my breakfafr. and 
 went with my old gentlemen, firffc to Ma- 
 dame Bofchart's, where I faw fome very fine 
 pictures ; (he is a woman of fafhion, but, 
 notwithftanding, would (which is almoft. 
 the cafe in general here) part with any of 
 them for a good price. There is a little 
 Breughel, not larger than a card, a land- 
 fcape without figures, with fome pigeons 
 
 fitting
 
 ( 8 5 ) 
 
 fitting on the thatch of a cottage, which I 
 could fcarce difcern with my naked eye- 
 but which, I was aflured, when feen thro' 
 a glafs, were as highly flnimed as any pic- 
 ture by General Douw ; the price is eighty 
 guineas. There is alfo an admirable Van- 
 dyke of a St. Sebaftian, with two boy an- 
 gels, one drawing one of the arrows out of 
 his wound, and another {landing behind 
 wringing his hands ; the landfcape of this 
 very good; the price 600 guineas. There 
 is an inimitable Rottenhammer, of the 
 Virgin and Chrift, and fome boys ; the 
 foftnefs and beauty both of the delign and 
 colouring is inexpieilible; it is about eight 
 inches by ten; the price 100 guineas. But 
 the picture, the mofl famous of this collec- 
 tion, is the Rape of the Sabines ; it has a 
 van 1 number of figures about fourteen inches 
 high. The picture, I fhould imagine, is 
 about five feet wide, and four high. She 
 values this at about 1 700 guineas. From 
 this we went to Mr. Van Lanchen's, where 
 I faw a capital Rottenhammer (the largefl 
 
 I have
 
 ( S6 ) 
 
 I have feen) of the Day of Judgment; this 
 I think was to be fold for 300 guineas ; and 
 the beautiful Vanderheyde, which I quite 
 longed for, but the price was 1 30 guineas. 
 By walking acrofs ill-paved courts to fee 
 thefe, I {trained the nerves of my feet mod 
 cruelly. After dinner the Governor brought 
 Mrs. Plunkett, his wife, a very polite, 
 agreeable woman, to drink tea with me, 
 and when they were gone, I with great 
 difficulty hobbled to Mrs. Blount's cell* and 
 then came home, fuftering great pain in 
 my foot. I had a very painful reftlefs 
 night, and when I arofe ? 
 
 Friday, June the 14th, I was reduced 
 to my gouty fhoe and two flicks, notwith- 
 ftanding which, I left Antwerp at a quarter 
 pan: twelve, and got, in great pain, to Ma- 
 lines at a quarter before three. I left it again 
 at four, and arrived at BrufTels a quarter after 
 feven, fo bad that it was with the ufmoft 
 difficulty I was got up a few fteps to my 
 Jodging, and I had like to have fainted in 
 in the operation; nor could I get acrofs my 
 
 room
 
 ( 7 ) 
 
 room without crutches, and even that with 
 difficulty. However, in the midft of my 
 mifery, I was comforted by the arrival of 
 my letters, though of no later date than 
 the fourth of June. I wonder how they 
 found me out at all, they being only ad* 
 drefled, a La DuchetTe de Northumberland, 
 Pairefle de la Grande Bretagne, without 
 naming any place whatever. 
 
 Saturday, June the 15th. I had a vifit 
 in the morning from Lord Chetwynd, and 
 after he was gone, I bought many prints, 
 and three fine miflals. In the afternoon I 
 had Mrs. Nettine, and before me left me, 
 Lord Algernon and Mr. Dutens arrived from 
 Spa. Lord Chetwynd came in. I fuffered 
 great pain that night. 
 
 Sunday, June the 16th. Mr. Dutens 
 and Lord Algernon went to dine at Monf. 
 Valchieres's in the country ; I flayed at 
 home all day and faw no company. 
 
 Monday, June the 1 7th. We left Bruf- 
 fels at about eight, and got to Ghent about 
 half an hour after two. The gentlemen 
 
 went
 
 C 88 ) 
 
 went to fee the town. Mr. Dutens was fb 
 much indifpofed at his return, as to be 
 obliged to go to bed. 
 
 Tuefday, June the 18th. We Mt 
 Ghent at a little before feven. I fet out with 
 Mr. Dutens, and was afterwards to change 
 for Lord Algernon, but we outwent them 
 fb that they never got up with us. We 
 got to Menin at a quarter paft twelve* 
 where I fet down Mr. Dutens (who, with 
 Lord Algernon was to go to Dunkirk) and 
 went on, tete a tete, with the poftillion, 
 without a fingle fervant, to Lifle, where I 
 arrived at a quarter pall: two. Here my 
 officious landlady introduced herfelf into my 
 room, and I never could get her out, tho' 
 I dined, till I went away. At half an hour 
 pad three, juft as my fervants and baggage 
 arrived, I difpatched James on before, took 
 Auguflus with me, and left the reft to fol- 
 low me. I got to Bethune at eight, where 
 I flayed all night. 
 
 Wednefday, June the 29th. I left Be- 
 thune at half paft fix. Juft before my peo- 
 ple
 
 ( 9 ) 
 
 pie got to St. Onicr's their berlin broke 
 down, and they were obliged to get another to 
 carry them and the baggage, which delayed 
 them very much. I got to Calais at a quar- 
 ter after three. Lord Algernon and Mr. 
 Dutens arrived at half part: five, and my 
 people and baggage not till near eight. 
 
 Thurfday, June the 20th. We went 
 on board at half pail: five, in bad weather, 
 and with a contrary wind. At one o'clock 
 we were frill on the coaft. of France, and 
 we did not land till feven. We left Dover 
 a quarter before nine, and got to Canter- 
 bury at a quarter before eleven, where w r e 
 lay all night. 
 
 Friday, June the 20th. We left Can- 
 terbury at fix, breakfafted at Sittingbourn, 
 and had the pleafure of finding my Lord in 
 perfect health at Northumberland-Houfe at 
 a quarter after one. 
 
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