HD .o? IRLF GIFT OF GIFT HIM 1O 1914 REPORT OF THE fry Social Survey Committee OF THE Consumers 9 League of Oregon ON THE Wages, Hours and Conditions of Work and Cost and Standard of Living of Women Wage Earners in Oregon with Special Reference to Portland PORTLAND, OREGON January, 1913 REPORT OF THE Social Survey Committee OF THE Consumers' League of Oregon ON THE Wages, Hours and Conditions of Work and Cost and Standard of Living of Women Wage Earners in Oregon with Special Reference to Portland PORTIAND, ORtGON January, 1913 Social Welfare Survey. SOCIAL SURVEY COMMITTEE OF THE CONSUMERS' LEAGUE OF OREGON Rev. Edwin V. O'Hara, Chairman. Mrs. Millie R. Trumbull, Secretary. Miss Mabel Weidler, Treasurer. W. B. Ayer. A. E. Wood C. F. Caufield Dr. C. H. Chapman Miss Lucia B. Harriman Mrs. H. R. Talbot, President Consumers' League. Legal Advisors John M. Gearin. D. Solis Cohen Director of Survey. Miss Caroline J. Gleason. OFFICERS AND DIRECTORS OF THE CONSUMERS' LEAGUE OF OREGON President Mrs. Henry Russell Talbot. Vice-Presidents First Vice- President Mrs. Millie R. Trumbull Second Vice-President Mrs. Elmer Colwell Third Vice-President Mrs. B. M. Lombard Honorary Vice-Presidents. Mr. D. Solis Cohen . Mrs. James Laidlaw Mrs. H.-W.. Corbet^/ ; /'* : . 1 . Mr. Marshall N. Dana Mrs. T. ; Eliot '.:*' . . Dr. A. A. Morrison Dr. C. H. Chapman.;*/. : ; ;;. m j Rev. H. J. McDevitt Dr. wiHiJuft" Jv5s"ter *' Mrs. R. B. Wilson Mr. Arthur Wood Corresponding Secretary Miss K. L. Trevett Treasurer Miss Cora Pattee Recording Secretary Mrs. William P. Gannett Directors Mrs. W. B. Ayer Miss Caroline J. Gleason Mrs. Chas. Basey Mrs. Thos. Scott Brooke Mrs. Frank J. Durham Mrs. Elsie Wallace Moore Mrs. William Warrens Social Welfare Snnvv TABLE OF CONTENTS. Page Social Survey Committee 2 Officers of the Consumers' League 2 Table of Contents 3 Statistical Tables 4 Report of Survey Committee 5 Opinion of the Attorney-General . . 7 Minimum Wage Legislation Elsewhere 10 Draft of the Proposed Bill 13 Report of the Director of the Survey ...... 18-72 Introduction 18 Wages, Hours and Unemployment 25-45 Retail Stores 25 Five and Ten Cent Stores 29 Factories 31 Laundries 35 Office Help 36 Moving Picture Show Cashiers 39 Printing Trades . . . ' 39 Telephone Operators 41 Hotels and Restaurants .42 Hairdressers, Dressmakers 44 Milliners; Cleaning and Dyeing . . . . .45 Conditions of Labor . . . ... . . . 46-57 Light and Ventilation 46 Too Great Heat in Laundries . . . . . .47 Nauseating and Other Odors 48 Poor Arrangement in Work Rooms . . . . .50 Lack of Sanitary Plumbing 52 Noise from Machinery 53 Nervous Strain in Telephone System . . . .55 Conclusion 56 Cost of Living 57-67 Room-rent 57 Rooms and Board .... . : . . 60 Carfare 61 Clothing 62 Laundry . . .64 Doctor and Dentist Bills 65 Lodge and Church Dues . 66 Recreation and Vacation 66 Education and Reading . 67 Summary . . . 67 Personal Stories . . . . 68 Appendix Welfare Legislation 73 285685 4.'!.; ,a! Welfare Survey. LIST OF TABLES 1 Occupational Distribution of Workers in Portland. 2 Summary of Cost of Living in Portland. 3 Summary of Cost of Living Outside of Portland. A Summary of Wages in Portland. 5 Wage Information Outside of Portland. 6 Department Stores; Number and Percent, Wage Schedules. 7 Department Stores ; Cumulative Number and Percent. 8 5c, lOc & 15c Stores; Wages. 9 Factory; Number and Percent Wage Schedules. 10 Factory; Cumulative Number and Percent. 11 Factories in Portland Reporting Wage Schedules. 12 Laundry; Markers, Starch Room, etc. 13 Laundry; Number, Percent, Wage. 14 Laundry; Cumulative Number, Percent. 15 Office Help; Number, Percent, Wage. 16 Office Help; Cumulative Number. 17 Stenographer; Number, Percent, Wage. 18 Stenographer; Cumulative Number, Percent. 19 Printing Trades; Number, Percent, Wage. 20 Printing Trades ; Cumulative Number and Percent. 21 Telephone Operators; Number, Percent. 22 Telephone Operators ; Cumulative Number, Percent. 23 Hotels and Restaurants; Number, Percent, Wage. 24 Hotels, Restaurants ; Cumulative Number. 25 Miscellaneous; Wage Schedules. 26 List of 105 Rooms for Rent in Portland. A, B, and C. 27 Classified Cost of Living; Average Spent on Room and Board. 28 Average Annual Sum Spent on Clothing. 29 Estimated Cost of Clothing at Low Market Prices. 30 Estimated Cost of Clothing, Serviceable. 31 Average Annual Sum Spent on Laundry. 32 Average Annual Sum Spent on Doctors' and Dentists' Bills. 33 Average Annual Sum Spent on Carfare. 34 Average Annual Sum Spent on Church and Lodge Dues. 35 Average Annual Sum Spent on Education and Reading. 36 Average Annual Sum Spent on Recreation and Vacation. 37 Summary of Cost of Decent Living for One Year. Social Welfare Survey. REPORT OF SURVEY COMMITTEE To the Officers and Directors of the Consumers' League of Oregon : The Social Survey Committee of the Consumers' League herewith respectfully submits its report on Welfare Legisla- tion for Women and Minors in Oregon. Your Committee be- gan its investigation for this Report early in August 1912. The generosity of a number of public-spirited citizens made it possible to engage a trained investigator to take charge of the inquiry into the wages, hours, conditions of labor and standards of living of women wage-earners in various indus- tries of the State with special reference to Portland. Miss Caro- line J. Gleason of Minneapolis, Minn., was made Director of the Survey and it is due to her special knowledge of the condi- tions of women wage-earners as well as to her tireless energy that the Committee is able to present a statistical report on so large a percentage of the women workers in various in- dustries with only five months for the task of organizing, in- vestigating, collating, tabulating and publishing. In Portland, the investigators have gathered informa- tion affecting the wages, 'hours or conditions of labor of 7,603 women wage-earners. Wage statistics are tabulated for 4,523 of this number. In the case of the Department Stores the pay-rolls were placed at our disposal, and hence the wage statistics are exhaustive ; but in other cases where the wage- schedules had to be obtained from individual employes, it was felt that the wage conditions in an establishment could be sufficiently guaged from the reports of a reasonably large percentage of the employes without seeking to get the sched- ule of every employe. Outside of Portland wage statistics were gathered for 1,133 women wage-earners. The Director of the Survey vis- ited most of the larger centers throughout the State and en- listed the generous co-operation of committees in twenty-five counties of the State. All over the State there was mani- fested the keenest interest in the work of the Consumers' League for this measure for the welfare of women workers. In drafting the Bill for an Industrial Welfare Commis- sion, your Committee has had the advantage of the experience of the Commission on Minimum Wage Boards of the Com- monwealth of Massachusetts and of the legal advice of ex- Senator John M. Gearin and Mr. D. Solis Cohen, who have given unsparingly of their time. The constitutionality of the measure has been carefully examined by the Attorney-General of Oregon, whose opinion is given herewith. Social Welfare Survey. Social workers from Washington and California have investigated the Bill aird have arranged to have it intro- duced at the coming session of the Legislatures of those States. The passage of the same measure by the three coast states would be a very progressive step in social welfare legislation. The argument for Welfare Legislation for Wom- en and Minors is presented in the address of the Chairman of this Committee at the annual meeting of the Consumers 1 League and published as an appendix of this report (also printed separately). Principles and Facts. The outstanding principles and facts which form the basis of the demand for the proposed legislation are the fol- lowing: (1) Each industry should provide for the livelihood of the workers employed in it. An industry which does not do so is parasitic. The well-being of society demands that wage- earning women shall not be required to subsidize from their earnings the industry in which they are employed. (2) Owing to the lack of organization among women workers and the secrecy with which their wage schedules are guarded, there are absolutely no standards of wages among them. Their wages are determined for the mc^st part by the will of the employer without reference to efficiency or length of service on the part of the worker. This condition is radi- cally unjust. (3) The wages paid to women workers in most occu- pations are miserably inadequate to meet the cost of living at the lowest standards consistent with the maintenance of the health and morals of the workers. Nearly three-fifths of the women employed in industries in Portland receive less than $10 a week, which is the minimum weekly wage that ought to be offered to any self-supporting woman wage-earner in this city. (4) The present conditions of labor for women in many industries are shown by this report to be gravely detrimental to their health; and since most women wage j earners are po- tential mothers, the future health of the race is menaced by these unsanitary conditions. For these reasons vour Committee believes that the pas- sage of the proposed Bill for an Act creating an Industrial Welfare Commission is most important and we strongly re- commend that the Consumers' League urgently petition the Legislature for its enactment. Respectfully submitted, SOCIAL SURVEY COMMITTEE. Mrs. Millie R. Trumbull, Edwin V. O'Hara, Secretary. Chairman Social Welfare Survey. OPINION OF ATTORNEY-GENERAL. SALEM, Ore., December 23rd, 1912. Chairman Social Survey Committee, Consumers' League of Oregon : DEAR SIR: I have your favor of the 19th instant, and under sep- arate cover, dratft of a proposed Industrial Welface Com- mission bill, and complying with your request, I beg to say that I have examined the proposed bill with ref- erence to ascertaining so far as I can, whether, if said bill were enacted, it would be subject to the objection that it is unconstitutional in any respect, and after such examination, together with the authorities which I have been able to find bearing upon the subject, am of opinion that it is entirely with- in the authority of the legislative department of the State of Oregon to enact. There are only two points which occur to me which might be raised in objection to the validity of the bill on constitutional grounds, and they are, first: As to whether it comes within the police power of the State, and second : Whether it is a delegation of legislative authority. A question ve v y similar to this arose upon the passage of the law limiting the hours of women workers to ten hours per day. and sixty hours per week, and in the case of State against Muller, 48 Ore. 252, the Supreme Court of Oregon sustained that statute as a valid exercise of the police power and as not unduly interfering with the right of women sui juris, to contract, which decision was sustained by the United States Supreme Court where the case was taken on writ of error, which decision is found in 208 U. S., 419. In the case of Mutual Loan Company against Martell, 32 U. S. Supreme Court Reporter, 74, involving the validity of a statute of Massachusetts which makes invalid against the emplover, assignments of, or orders for wages to be earned in the future, unless recorded, accepted in writing by fhe em- ployer and accompanied by the written consent of the wife of the emplovee. the Court sustained said statute as a valid exercise of police power, and on pas^e 75 discusses the question of what the police power of the State is, and the extent of its authoritv. at considerable length, and closes this branch of the case in the following language : "There must, indeed, be a certain freedom of con- tract, and, as there cannot be a precise, verbal ex- pression of the limitations of it, arguments against anv particular limitation mav have plausible strength, and vet many legal restrictions have been and must be put upon such freedom in adapting human laws to 8 Social Welfare Survey. human conduct and necessities. A too precise reason- ing should not be exercised, and before this court may interfere there must be a clear case of abuse of power. See Chicago, B. & Q. R. Co. v. McGuire, 219 U. S. 549, 55 L. ed. 328, 31 Sup. Ct. Rep. 259, where the rig^ht of contract and its limitation by the legislature are fully discussed." In the case of Noble State Bank against Haskell and others, 219 U. S. 104, 31 Supreme Court 'Reporter, 186, the Court discussing what is a State's police power, uses this language : "At least, if we have a case within the reasonable exercise of the police power as above explained, no more need be said. It may be said in a general way that the police power extends to all the great public needs. Cam- field v. United States, 167 U. S. 518, 42 L. ed. 260, 17 Sup. Ct. Rep. 864. It may be put forth in aid of what is sanctioned by usage, or held by the prevailing mor- ality or strong and preponderant opinion to be greatly and immediately necessary to the public welfare." To the same effect are the decisions of the United States Supreme Court in the case of Laurelhill Cemetery against San Francisco, 216 U. S. 358, Welch against Swasey, 214 U. S. 91, Jacobson against Massachusetts, 197 U. S. 11, and the dissenting opinion in Loc'hner against New York, 198 U. S. 45, as well as the principles laid down in the controlling opinion in that case, although the decision was that the prin- ciples did not apply to the conditions then at issue. If the police power extends to all the great public needs, as held by the United States Supreme Court in the cases above cited, and it must be conceded that sufficient earnings to procure a reasonable and comfortable existence, together wit'h some opportunity for rest and recreation, and sanitary, health- ful and moral conditions under which to labor, on behalf of women and minors, are some of the prime and greatest needs of the public, then this proposed bill is certainly well within the police power of the State, and as said in Bank against Haskell, Supra., if we have a case within the reasonable ex- ercise of the police power, as above explained, no more need be said. Upon the other point, as to whether the appointment of a commission, and through it of wage boards, or conferences, for the purpose of ascertaining and fixing what are reasonable and necessary minimum wages, maximum hours of labor, and standard conditions for and under which women and children may be allowed to work, I find it established by a multitude of authorities, that while a legislature cannot delegate its authority to make laws, to any other body or authority, but having enacted the law, may delegate to another body or Social Welfare Survey. authority, power to determine facts upon which such law shall operate. State against Thompson, 160 Missouri, 333, sustaining an act authorizing the State Auditor to exercise his judgment as to the good repute of an applicant for a license for book mak- ing on horse raices ; Lothrop against Stedman, 42 Connecticut, 583, sustaining an act providing for the repeal of a charter of an insurance company if a certain event did not occur, and appointing a commissioner to determine whether it occurred. In re Locke's Appeal, 72 Pennsylvania State, 498, the Court says : "What is more than common to appoint commis- sioners under a law to determine things, upon the decision of which the act is to operate in some way or another." and lays down the rule that while the legislature cannot dele- gate its power to make a law, it can make a law delegating its power to determine some fact or state of things, upon which the law makes, or intends to make its own action de- pend. It is now well settled, that while the establishing of railroad rates is a legislative function, the determination as to what are reasonable rates and fixing the same, may be delegated to Railroad Commissions and other bodies authorized to deter- mine facts. Railroad Commission against Yazoo & Mississippi Valley R. R. Co., 62 Miss. 607; Stone against Farmers' Loan & Trust Co., 116 U. S. 307; Regan against Farmers' Loan & Trust Co., 154 U. S. 362; C. B. & O. R. R. Co., against Jones, 149 111., 378; Beale & Wyman R. R. rate regulation, section 1309; 8Cyc., 834; Without citing as many more authorities to the same effect which I have consulted on this subject. Therefore in my opinion the act proposed is valid so far as a conflict with 'the constitution. State or National^ is con- cerned, and I am further impressed with the great merit of the object sought to be obtained by this proposed law. If our free institutions are to be maintained, it is of vital importance to protect our citizens, especially those in greatest need of such protection, by furnishing adequate means of livlihood, as well as safe and sanitary conditions under which employ- ment may be pursued. Very respectfully yours, A, M. CRAWFORD, IHV-D Attorney General. 10 Social Welfare Survey. MINIMUM WAGE LEGISLATION ELSEWHERE. As to the operation elsewhere of Minimum Wage legisla- tion, we quote here from the report of the Commission on Minimum Wage Boards of the Commonwealth oi Massachu- setts (1912) : "Such a system of (Minimum Wage) legislation has been in operation in the State of Victoria, Australia, since 1896, and in Great Britain since January, 1910. Some form of fixing legal minimum wages is also in operation in the other Aus- tralian states and New Zealand. In Victoria and England the minimum wages are determined by wage boards created for considering the special requirements of the respective indus- tries or trades. The Victorian System. "In Victoria, at the instance of either employers or em- ployees, or of the minister of labor, the legislature may author- ize the creation of a special board, which is empowered to fix a minimum wage for a given trade. Employers and employees are equally represented upon such a board, and a non-partisan chairman is selected by the two parties at interest, or, if they fail to agree, is then appointed by the minister of labor. The chairman has a casting vote. Determinations, as the decisions of the special boards are called, if accepted by the minister of labor, are published in the Government Gazette and become law for that trade; 'but if the minister of labor considers that a determination may cause injury to the trade, he may sus- pend it for a period of six months, and then send it back to the board for reconsideration. There is also the court of industrial appeals, to which determinations may be referred, and this court has the power to amend or annul a determination. The decision of the court is final, but it may review its own de- cisions. Moreover, the court of appeals is specifically instruct- ed to consider whether a determination has been or may be injurious to a trade, or may limit employment, 'and if of opin- ion that it has had or may have such effect, the court shall make such alterations as in its opinion may be necessary to remove or prevent such effect, and at the same time to secure a living wage to employees.' (Factory and Shops Acts, 1905, No. 1975). The law ignores the possibility of cases in which the maintenance of the trade and payment of a living wage to the employees may be incompatible. These special boards, although authorized to secure a 'living wage' in practice have served rather to formulate common rules for a trade, to bring employees and employers into co-operative relations and to Social Welfare Survey. 11 provide suitable machinery for the readjustment of wages and other matters to changing economic conditions. Their flexi- bility in dealing with complex situations is obvious. Few ap- peals have been taken from their decisions to the court of in- dustrial appeals. The claim that the system is not considered antagonistic by propertied interests is borne out by a great weight of testimony. On this point Victor Clark, who visited Victoria in 1903 and 1904 as a representative of the United States Department of Labor, states, 'Propertied interests were not opposed to a statutory minimum wage. . . The better employers rather courted some provision that freed them from the competition of the less scrupulous men of their own class.' (Labor in Australia, pp. 141, 147.) He states further that 11 of the 38 special boards then in operation were established upon application of employers. "In 1910, 20 new boards were instituted, and at the end of that year 91 industries were under the operation of the act, affecting 5,362 factories, in which 83,053 workers were em- ployed. The English System. "In England, the industries in which the system may be applied are named by Parliament, but the Board of Trade may provisionally extend the application of the act to other indus- tries, subject to subsequent continuation by Parliament. The wage boards, known as trade boards,, are composed of repre- sentatives of employers and of workers in equal numbers, elected by the respective organizations, and of other members, including the chairman, appointed by the Board of Trade. The determinations of these trade boards are made obligatory by an order of the Board of Trade, but the Board of Trade may suspend the operation of the order. If the order is suspended the trade may after six months again renew its recommenda- tion, and the Board of Trade may then issue an obligatory order or further suspend it. Minimum wage orders determined in this manner apply to both men and women, and they may apply universally to the trades or apply to any special process in the work of the trade, or to any special class of workers in the trade, or to any special area. The act (9, Edward VII, chap. 22), went into effect Jan. 1. 1910, and applied immediate- ly to the trades of wholesale tailoring, box-making, lace-mak- ing and chain-making. The act has not been in operation long enough to judge of its ultimate success, but it was adopted after mature consideration by a select committee, whose laborious investigations included a field study by Ernest Aves, com- missioner of the home office, into the workings of minimum wage regulations, both in Australia and in New Zealand. In the passage of the bill through Parliament it was not made a party or a class measure, and it does not seem to have met 12 Social Welfare Survey. with any particular opposition from any quarter. In one in- dustry, at least, it has 'been gladly accepted by employers, who even contributed money to enable their employees to organize for the purpose of taking advantage of the act/' After a thorough investigation of the needs of the women and minor workers in the Commonwealth, Massachusetts has enacted a law creating a Minimum Wage Commission for the determination of minimum wages of women and minors. The Commission is to undertake its duties July 1 of the current year. Social Welfare Survey. 13 A BILL For an Act to protect the lives, health and morals of women and minor workers, establishing an Industrial Welfare Commission for women and minors, prescribing its powers and duties, and providing for the fixing of minimum wages and maximum hours and standard conditions of labor for such workers, and providing penalties for violations of the Act. WHEREAS, The welfare of the State of Oregon demands that women and minors be protected from conditions of labor which have a pernicious effect on their health and morals; and WHEREAS, Inadequate wages, unduly long hours and unsanitary conditions of labor exert such pernicious effect, THEREFORE, BE IT ENACTED By the People of the State of Oregon, and Be It Enacted by the Legislative As- sembly of the State of Oregon : Section 1. It shall be unlawful to employ women or minors in any industry or occupation within the State of Ore- gon for unreasonably long daily hours, or under conditions of labor detrimental to their health or morals; and it shall be unlawful to employ women in any industry within the State of Oregon for wages which are not adequate for their decent maintenance. Section 2. There is hereby created a Commission to be known as the "Industrial Welfare Commission for the State of Oregon," to establish such standards of hours of employ- ment and conditions of labor for women and minors employed within the State of Oregon as shall be held hereunder reason- able and not detrimental to their health or morals, and such standards of wages as shall be adequate for the decent main- tenance of women. Section 3. Said Commission shall be composed of five persons, three of whom shall be appointed by the Governor, as follows : The first appointment shall be made within thirty days after this Act takes effect ; one for the term ending January 1, 1914; one for the term ending January 1, 1915, and one for the term ending January 1, 1916; provided, however, that at the expiration of their respective terms, their successors shall be appointed by the Governor to serve a full term of three years. Any vacancies shall be filled by the Governor for the unexpired portion of the term in which the vacancy shalt occur. The Commissioner of Labor Statistics and In- spector of Factories and Workshops shall be ex-officio a mem- ber of the Commission. The Secretary of the Child Labor 14 Social Welfare Survey. Commission of Oregon shall be ex-officio a member of said Commission. Three members of the Commission shall con- stitute a quorum at all regular meetings and public hearings. Section 4. The members of said Commission shall draw no salaries. The Commission may employ a Secretary whose salary shall be paid out of the monies hereinafter appropriated. All claims for expenses incurred by the Commission shall, after approval by the Commission, be passed to the Secretary of State for audit and payment. Section 5. It shall be the duty of the Commission to ascertain the wages and hours of labor and conditions of labor of women and minors in the various occupations, trades and industries in which said women and minors are employed in the State of Oregon. To this end, said Commission shall have full power and authority to call for statements and examine, either through its members or other authorized representatives, all books, payrolls or other records of all persons, firms and corporations employing females or minors as to any matters that would have a bearing upon the questions of wages or hours of labor or conditions of labor of said employes. Section 6. Every .employer of women and minors shall keep a register of the names of all women and minors em- ployed by him, and shall on request permit the Commission or any of its members or authorized representatives to in- spect such register. For the purposes of this Act, a minor is defined to be a person of either sex under the age of eighteen (18) years. Section 7. The Commission may specify times to hold public hearings, at which times employers, employes or other interested persons may appear and give testimony as to the matter under consideration. The Commission shall have power to subpoena witnesses, and to administer oaths. All witnesses subpoenaed by the Commission shall be paid the same mileage and per diem allowed by law for witnesses before the Circuit Court in civil cases. Section 8. If, after investigation, the Commission is of opinion that in any occupation, trade or industry, the wages paid to fernale employes are inadequate to supply the necessary cost of living and to maintain the workers in health, or that the hours or conditions of labor are preju- dicial to the health or morals of the workers, the Commission is empowered to call a Conference composed of an equal num- ber of representatives of employers and employes in the oc- cupation, trade or industry in question, together with one or more disinterested persons representing the public, but "the representatives of the public shall not exceed the number of representatives of either of the other parties; and a member of Social Welfare Survey. 15 the Commission shall be a member of such conference and Chairman thereof. The Commission shall make rules and regulations governing the selection of representatives and the mode of procedure of said conference, and shall exercise ex- clusive jurisdiction over all questions arising as to the validity of the procedure and of the recommendations of said confer- ence. On request of the Commission, it shall be the duty of the Conference to recommend to the Commission an estimate of the minimum wage adequate in the occupation or industry in question to supply the necessary cost of living, and to maintain the workers in health ; to report on the number of hours of work per day consistent with the health of the work- ers, and to recommend standards of conditions of labor de- manded by the health and morals of the employes. In de- termining questions arising in different localities throughout the state the Conferences may consider the different condi- tions as factors in reaching conclusions, and the Commission may in its judgment formulate different rules in different localities based upon said consideration. The findings and recommendations of the Conference shall be made a matter of record for the use of the Commission. Section 9. Upon the receipt of such recommendations from a Conference, the Commission shall review the. same and may approve any or all of such recommendations, or it may disapprove any or all of them and recommit the subject or the recommendations disapproved of, to the same or a new Conference. After such approval of the recommendation of a Conference, the Commission shall issue an obligatory order to be effective in sixty days from the date of said order, spe- cifying the minimum wage for women in the occupation, trade or industry affected, the maximum hours, provided that the hours specified shall not be more than the legal maximum for women in Oregon, and the standard conditions of labor for said women ; and after such order is effective, it shall be un- lawful for any employer in said occupation, trade or industry to employ women over eighteen (18) years of age for less than the rate of wages or more than the maximum hours speci- fied, or under conditions of labor prohibited for women so employed. The Commission shall send by mail so far as practicable to each employer in the occupation in question a copy of the order, and each such employer shall be required to post a copy of said order in each building in which women affected by the order are employed. Section 10. For any occupation, trade or industry, in which a minimum time rate only has been established, the Commission, through its Secretary, may issue to a woman physically defective or crippled by age or otherwise, a special license authorizing the employment of such license for a wage 16 Social Welfare Survey. less than the legal minimum wage; and the Commission shall fix the minimum wage for said woman. Section 11. The Commission may at any time inquire into wages, hours and conditions of labor of minors, em- ployed in any occupation in the state, and may determine wages, hours and conditions of labor suitable in the case of minors. When the Commission has made such determination in the case of minors, it may proceed to issue an obligatory order in the manner provided for in Section 9 of this Act, and after such order is effective, it shall be unlawful for anv employer in said occupation to employ a minor for less wages or more hours than is specified for minors in said occupation^ or under conditions of labor prohibited by the Commission for said minors in its order. Section 12. Upon the request of the Commission the Commissioner of Labor Statistics shall furnish to the Com- mission such statistics as the Commission may require. Section 13. Any employer who discharges, or in any other manner discriminates against any employe because such employe has testified or is about to testify, or because such employer believes that said employe may testify in any investigation or proceedings relative to the enforcement of this Act, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and upon conviction thereof, shall be punished by a fine of from Twenty- five Dollars ($25.00) to One Hundred Dollars ($100.00) for each such misdemeanor. Section 14. Any person employing a woman or minor for whom a minimum wage or maximum hours or standard condition of labor have been specified, at less than said mini- mum wage, or for more than the specified maximum hours, or under conditions of labor prohibited by the order of the Commission ; or violating any other of the provisions of this Act, shall be deemed guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall, upon conviction thereof, be punished by a fine of not less than Twenty-five Dollars ($25.00) or more than One Hundred Dollars ($100.00) or by imprisonment in the County Jail for not less than ten (10) days, nor more than three (3) months. Justice courts shall have jurisdiction of all violations of this Act. Section 15. If any female employe shall receive less than the legal minimum wage in any occupation for which a mini- mum wage has been determined by the Commission, she shall be entitled to recover in a civil action the full amount of her minimum wage as herein provided for, together with costs and attorney's fees to be fixed by the court, notwithstanding any agreement to work for such lesser wage. In such action, however, the employer shall be credited with any wages which Social Welfare Survey. 17 have been paid upon account, whether in cash or otherwise. Section 16. All questions of fact arising under this Act shall be determined by the Commission, and there shall be no appeal from its decision, but there shall be a right of appeal to the Circuit Court of the State of Oregon on ques- tions of law. Section 17. The Commission shall bi-ennially make a report to the Governor ar.cl State Legislature of its investi- gations and proceedings. Section 18. There is hereby appropriated annually out of any monies of the State Treasury not otherwise ap- propriated, the sum of Three Thousand, Five Hundred Dol- lars ($3,500.00), or as much thereof as may be necessary to meet the expenses of the Commission. 18 Social Welfare Survey. REPORT OF THE DIRECTOR OF THE SURVEY To the Social Survey Committee : I herewith submit the report of the investigation into the wages, hours, conditions of labor and cost and standards of living of women workers in Oregon. Acknowledgment is due to the Chairman of the Survey Committee, Rev. E. V. O'Hara, for his constant advice and aid in carrying out the work; to Mr. O. P. Hoff, State Labor Commissioner, and to Mrs. Millie R. Trumbull, Secretary Child Labor Commission. for many valuable suggestions, to the manufacturers and mer- chants who have opened their shops and payrolls to us for inspection. The director was assisted in the field work by Daisy M. Eager, Mrs. Wm. P. Gannett and Grace G. Collins. Respectfully yours, CAROLINE J. GLEASOX, Director of Survey. INTRODUCTION. Purpose of Investigation. The purpose of the investigation was to secure accurate data (1) as to the wages paid in all lines of work to self- supporting women in this State, (2) as to the cost of living in Portland and the smaller towns of the state, with a view to determining whether wage-earning women are receiving a wage that permits them to live so as to preserve their health and their morals, and to save against future needs ; (3) as to conditions which would affect the health or morals of the workers. A hostile attitude has never been assumed by the in- vestigators towards the management of any establishments. They report details of conditions that are not good, or which are remarkably bad. Where conditions have been found re- markably good, mention has gladly 'been made of them. Yet a state of affairs should rightly not exist in which an employer who paid his employes a living wage, who kept his shop in a clean, healthful condition, should feel that he was acting in an exceptionally commendable way. A sanitary shop and a living wage ought to be not the exception but the rule a standard, the opposite of which would call for general dis- approval. Social Welfare Survey. Procedure of Investigation. \o attempt was made to canvas every female worker in the various industries for cost of living schedules, nor to gather complete wage schedules from all industries in the state. A number that would accurately represent the wage and cost of living situations was all that was deemed neces- sary. Four lines were followed in gathering information : 1. Cards, one of which is reproduced below, were distributed among women workers, and when filled were col- lected by investigators. To reach workers, no distinction was made in establishments. A list of different industries employing women was drawn up and every house on the list visited. Over 2,000 cards were distributed; 509 were collected in Portland. Workers were approached at lunch and closing hour and in their homes. The director has no hesitancy in presenting information gathered from cards as accurate. MINIMUM WAGE INVESTIGATION 1. WHAT kind of ESTABLISHMENT are you working in? . 2. WHAT is your work 3. WAGES Week or Month 4. HOURS employed Day or Week. 5. LIVING at Home? (Yes or No) 6. VACATION with pay? 7. HOW long with firm? 8. FIRST wage here? COST OF LIVING 1. HOUSE or Room rent, per year 2. FOOD, per year 3. CLOTHING, per year 4. CARFARE, per year 5. LAUNDRY, per year 6. DOCTOR Bills, per year 7. CHURCH Dues, per year 8. LODGE Dues, per year 9. EDUCATION, per year (books, newspapers, etc) 10. RECREATION, including vacation, per year NOTE. On reverse side of card, give all other items of expense that you deem proper, or information concerning working conditions. 2. A second method was to solicit wage schedules from employers and to ask their views on the labor conditions of 20 Social Welfare Survey. female employes and their opinion as to the feasibility of the proposed bill. 3. A third line pursued was that of engaging to work in different establishments, in order to obtain first-hand informa- tion as to conditions and to corroborate both employers' and employes' reports. The investigators worked as employes in 12 factories. 4. A fourth line pursued was that of visiting boarding and rooming-houses and private families who advertised room and board, in all sections of the city, to discover the actual cost of food and lodging; (b) of visiting department stores for the lowest and average prices on articles of wear; (c) The director of the investigation went to southern, western and eastern sections of the state, visiting in all 14 towns, organiz- ing sub-committees to gather wage statistics and collecting information herself on wages, conditions of labor and cost of living. The result is that information has been gained about 39 occupations employing women, and 8,736 women workers, 7,603 of these being in Portland, 1,133 outside. Below in Table 1 is given a list of the industries investi- gated in Portland and the number of workers employed in each. TABLE 1. Occupational Distribution of 7603 Women Workers in Portland employed in 39 occupations investigated in regard to wages, hours, conditions of work and cost and standards of living. Bag Factories . . . 137 Broom and Basket 43 Can Factories 65 Canning Factories 100 Chewing Gum Factories 80 Cigar Box Factories 3 Clothing Factories 218 Candy Factories 212 Cordage Factories 16 Creameries 17 Curled Hair Factories 2 Flour Mills 8 Furriers Mattress Factories 12 Meat Packers 12 Paper Box Factories 63 Packing 106 Prune Canneries 35 Pickle Factories 16 Shoe Factories 2 Soap Factories 2 Tobacco Factories Tent and Awning Factories Mohair and Woolen Mills 99 Factory Total 1306 COST OF LIVING. The investigators have come to the conclusion that m Portland $10 a week is the least on which the average, girl can support herself decently. Facts which led to this con- clusion were drawn from the testimony of the girls through the 509 schedules detailing their living expenses. Certain m- Cleaning and Dyeing 57 Department Stores , . . . .2281 Druggists (wholesale) 102 Dry Goods (wholesale) 125 Electric Co 314 Five and Ten Cent Stores 120 Grocers (wholesale) 73 Hairdressing 15 Laundries 2 Offices (general) 800 Printing and Stationery 2 Stenographers 985 Publishing Restaurants and Hotels 3 Telephone 570 Total 6297 Factories 13 1 Total 7603 Social Welfare Survey. ' 21 dustries demand higher standards of living than others; also a young woman's condition as to whether she is living at home or is a girl "adrift" influences her cost of living. The term "adrift," used in connection with the woman not living at home, may need some explanation. The appli- cation of the word is that given by the Federal Investigators in their Report on Women and Child Wage Earners in the U. S., Vol. V, "Women in Stores and Factories/' It is meant to cover all cases of the girl "practically without a home." Those who are living in rooming and boarding-houses and entirely dependent on their own earnings, are undoubtedly "adrift." The question arises over those who, though living with a parent or other near relatives, are depended upon for care and support. An example quoted by the Federal report is thai of a girl supporting an invalid father by her income and caring also for the house : "Not absolutely but practically without *a home, as her father is neither physically nor men- tally able to sustain her in time of need or restrain her in time of temptation." The widow or deserted woman with de- pendent children is another example of a woman "adrift." This investigation .came across women difficult to classify, and for purposes of simplicity adopted this description. Table 2 below gives the average annual wage and ex- pense of the 509 women interviewed in Portland, classified according to industry and whether they were living at home or adrift. The saving or deficit is also indicated, showing the amount of outside help required for the girl's support. It will be observed that the average girl in every occu- pation, except office work, receives wages which are inadequate for her support, and consequently would face the end of the year in debt if she does not receive assistance from her family or some outside source. This shows the extent to which in- dustries employing women are parasitic in character. TABLE 2. Average Annual Wage and Expense of 509 Women Wage Earners in Portland, classified by occupation and as to living at Home or Adrift: LAUNDRY. No. Average Annual Wage. Expense. Deficit. Saving. 9 At Home $423.00 $474.45 $ 51.45 27 Adrift 464.00 475.05 11.05 FACTORY. 82 At Home 416.92 426.98 10.06 18 Adrift 395.00 438.83 43.83 OFFI.CE. 57 At Home . ... 542.14 599.50 57.36 31 Adrift 692.90 617.07 $75.83 DEPARTMENT STORES. 81 At Home 459.50 605.36 145.86 35 Adrift 480.57 572.42 91.85 MISCELLANEOUS. 99 At Home 440.24 539.29 99.05 70 Adrift . 458.71 526.68 67.97 22 ' Social Welfare Survey. Out of 127 persons who offered information, other than the schedules called for, 70 stated that they could not live on their salaries if they did not receive outside help;; 22 had to help support families that ranged from 4 to 9 persons; 15 others said they had children to support ; 62 claimed to receive assistance from home. The wage ranged from $2.50 to $12 per week. Table 3 shows what is the average cost of living for 101 young women in the state at large. The evidence is practically the same as that from Portland. Outside it amounts to $9.82 a week, or $42.55 a month. In some towns the actual cost <>i" living would be slightly lower on account of lack of car service. TABLE 3. Average amount spent annually by 101 women wage earners in miscellaneous occupations in Oregon (outside Portland). Information obtained from Ashland, Baker, Eugene, Forest Grove, LaGrande, Medford, Oregon City, Pendleton, Salem and Vale: Room and Board $278.62 Clothing 137.50 Laundry 16.00 Carfare 21.00 Doctor and Dentist 18.00 Church and Lodge 12.52 Reading 6.54 Recreation 20.50 Total $9.82 a week; $42.55 a month. .$510.68 WAGES. Table 4 below shows that out of 3.217 wage schedules, 1920 were under $10 a week. A median average was struck for 1,306 additional workers in 53 factories. The median wage here was $8.20 a week, which means that 50 per cent were receiving less than $8.20 a week, 50 per cent more. To the 1920. receiving less than $10 a week, we can add 50 per cent of 1,306, or 653, making a total of 2,573 out of 4,523, or over one-half, receiving less than $10 a week. The lowest wage reported was that of a millinery apprentice earning $1.50 a week ; the highest, that of a stenographer earning $35 a week. TABLE 4. Summary of Weekly Wages of Women Employes in Portland: OCCUPATION .0 & H Number over $10 1 1! V 11 5 ll Derarttnent Stores 1211 867 2078 58 2 41 7 Factories 319 108 427 74 7 25 3 Hotels and Restaurants 105 108 213 49 2 50 8 Laundries 130 10 140 92 6 7 4 Office Help (not including stenographers) . 59 67 126 46 4 53 6 Stenographers 19 66 85 22 4 77 5 Printino- Trades 32 25 57 56 1 43 8 Telephone Operators 25 26 52 Miscellaneous 19 20 39 48 7 51 ^ Total 1920 1297 3217 59.6 40.4 /* dditional report of 53 factories representing 21 industries; 1306 women em- ployed; lowest wage reported, $3 a week; median wage, $8.20 a week. Total number of wage schedules of women employes in Portland received and classified: 4,523. Social Welfare Survey. 23 Table 5 shows the average wage paid in different lines of work outside of Portland. 26 towns, with 1,133 women wage- earners, are represented. The lowest wage is that offered in hotels and restaurants, where 18 women earned on an average of $31.65 a month. Next are 22 telephone operators earning an average of $33.07 a month. Individual schedules reported an operator's wage in several of the towns as $20 a month. Stenographers earn the largest sums; next to them, with a difference of $11 a month, are retail stores and laundries. TABLE 5. Wage Information for 1133 Women Wage Earners in Oregon (Outside of Portland). (Wage information was received from the following towns and cities: Albany, Ashland, Astoria, Baker, Cottage Grove, Dallas, Enterprise, Eugene, Forest Grove, Ihx.d River, Grants Pass, LaGrande, McMinnville, Medford, Oregon City, Pen- dleton, Roseburg, Salem, Springfield, Stockton, The Dalles, Union and Vale.) No. of Employes. Industry, Average Monthly Wage. 88 Canneries $35.00 6 Condensed Milk 38.00 280 Woolen Mills 37.50 18 Hotels and Restaurants 31.65 518 Laundries 39.50 45 Office Help 35.50 140 v . . Retail Stores 39.21 16 Stenographers 50.00 22 Telephone Operators 33 07 CONDITIONS OF LABOR. In smaller towns, one frequently finds an attitude of fra- ternalism between employer and employe which makes for consideration on both sides. Some lines of work, such as retail stores, though they may demand much at one time of day, have decidedly lessened strain at others. Because of a smaller number of workers to an establishment, ventilation and light are often good. In Portland, working conditions cannot be described as a whole as very good, fair or poor. Some estab- lishments were found which could be placed on a "white list." Other are unspeakably bad. The chapter which de- scribes these in detail shows, as does the chapter on wages, the need of legislation to preserve the health and morals of the workers. During the investigation, several phases of the female labor problem have been brought out constantly. One of these is in regard to the efficiency of the workers. One fact that was clearly demonstrated is that efficiency is certainly not the standard according to which the majority of workers are paid. This was evidenced (1) by the dismissal of highly paid, experienced employes and the employment of young, inexpe- rienced substitutes ; (2) by the reduction of rates on piece- work when employes had reached a certain earning capacity; (3) by the fact brought out again and again, that though em- ployes were retained for years of service, though their effi- ciency increased with time, they found it an impossibility to 24 Social Welfare Survey. keep their position and bring their wages above a certain low figure. Other facts that seemed to account for inefficiency lay in the unpleasant and sometimes degrading and difficult sur- roundings in which the work had to be done. Lack of training undoubtedly has much to do with in- efficiency. This is a burden which must be assumed by so- ciety at large and disposed of by some kind of industrial train- ing for girls as well as for boys. Until education of this sort is compulsory, some of the evils of low efficiency will remain. Another cause of inefficiency, however, must be attributed to the careless standards of employers. If cheap help is em- ployed, cheap work must be expected. Inexperienced workers see loose methods of work permitted and are content to go on in the way they have begun. A concrete example of this is in the office work. Girls of 16, 17 and 18 years spend six weeks or two months in a short course in a business college. At the end of that time, they are ready for work. As might be expected, they are slow, uneven writers ; they hire out to a firm where many technical terms entirely unknown to them are used. If their spelling is even good to begin with, it stands a test here to which it has not been subjected, and fails. Even though an attempt is made by the stenographers to "make good" in this work, progress is retarded by the lack of preparation. Girls state that large firms employing a num- ber of office employes permit shoddy work to go through, and practically spoil a young stenographer for future high grade work. If employers insisted that their office help had a minimum amount of elementary schooling and an approved business training, then started them at $40 a month, instead of $20 and $25, the girl and the firm would profit in the end. CONCLUSION. The investigation has proved beyond a doubt that a large majority of self-supporting women in the state are earning less than it costs them to live decently ; that many are re- ceiving subsidiary help from their homes, which thus con- tribute to the profits of their employers ; that those who do not receive assistance from relatives are breaking down in health from lack of proper nourishing food and comfortable lodging quarters, or are supplementing their wages by money received from immoral living. That even in places where living Wages are paid, workshops are in such unsanitary condi- tion that immediate changes are necessary ; that in certain in- dustries hours of labor are prejudicial to the health of the workers. For the remedying of these evils, proper legislation seems to be the only means. Social Welfare Survey. 25 WAGES, HOURS, UNEMPLOYMENT RETAIL STORES. Beginning Wages in Department Stores. Table 6 shows that the beginning weekly wage in De- partment Stores in Portland is $3.00. Only two girls are registered at this sum, but the number receiving $4 calls for more attention. Fifty young women, or 2.4 per cent, are earning a sum that would pay only for a decent room and carfare. Nearly ten times that number, or 489 (Table 7), are working for less than $1 for each day of the week. TABLE 6. Number and Per Cent, of 2078 Women Workers in Portland Department Stores classified by weekly earnings. s* Number . Per Cent 2 | 50 .09 | 2.40 138 | 313 6.63 |15.05 1* 145 6.97 331 15.92 232 11.15 505 25.25 326 15.68 36 |2078 1.73 | 100 TABLE 7. Cumulative Number and Per Cent, of 2078 Women Workers in Portland Department Stores, Classified by Earnings. & ft V o c | 8 TJ C y TJ C V c i T3 C V "O | 2 H t> o Number 2 38 176 489 634 965 1211 867 2078 Per Cent .09 2.49 9.12 24.17 | 31.14 | 47.06 58.21 41.79 100 Girls earning $3 and $4 a week are given that sum because they are "young." \Yc expect to find them running errands and acting as cash girls. We discover them in steady posi- tions as clerks and in the office. Six dollars a week is the wage most frequently offered an applicant for a clerk's posi- tion. Wrappers receive between $25 and $30 a month. The position carries a certain amount of responsibility, as the wrappers must measure every yard of goods passing through their hands, or in the case of single articles, compare the price tag and the clerk's slip to see that the sums are correct. Such positions' offer very little hope of advancement. Ten dollars is the maximum wage that the majority of clerks can hope to attain to. That this is a hope for the majority and a realiza- tion for a minority, is shown in Table 7, which indicates that 1,211 women wage earners in department stores are earning under $10. The 867 who are earning $10 and over are rna-'e up of a few clerks, the highest paid office help and heads of departments. 26 Social Welfare Survey. Complaint Against Their Wage System. One of the greatest complaints to be found with the large department store management is that as far as anyone can find out, they have no system of advancement of employes. Amount of sales, increase or decrease, is watched, to be sure, but apparently only to dismiss the employe if he or she does not come up to a certain standard. When the regulation of wages is left to the head of each department, the demand that the returns from the department be kept at 'a certain figure is likely to result (for men and women alike) in the dismissal of competent, high-paid clerks, or reduction of their wages. The basis of advance seems to 'be personal aggres- siveness, and this is testified to over and over again by the girls. Secrecy of Wage Rates. A rule existing, written or unwritten, in all the larger stores, is that the girls must not tell others what wage they are getting. Divulging this information has resulted in in- stant dismissal. One firm goes so far as to require a signed promise from the girl that she will not tell any other employe her wage. The following is quoted from the firm's application blank : "(Unless you can answer 'yes' to these questions, do not place your application with us) : "1. I will consider it my duty to report in writing or otherwise to the Superintendent i any act or conduct of my fellow employes that I believe to be against the interest of the business. "2. My engagement can be terminated any hour or day at the option of.. , I being at liberty to do likewise. "3. I agree to keep my salary confidential. "I have answered the above questions in the affirmative (yes) without reservation, and agree, if engaged, to conform to the rules of the house." Another existing rule that works hardships on employes is that goods under-charged, mis-measured, wrongly addressed and lost, must be paid for. One is ready to acknowledge that with a large number of employes, some system must be adopted whereby the more irresponsible ones will feel the necessity of being careful. But with responsible work should go a corresponding wage which would enable a worker to pay for a possibly accidental mistake, without having to incur a debt for it. An observer is inclined to think that the secrecy of wage scales is due to inability to explain individual large sales with low wage, or long service with persisting low wage ; or knowl- Social Welfare Survey. 27 edge of the cost of living and a lower-than-cost-of-living wage. Even one who has experienced incompetent service in retail stores is loath to admit that out of 2,000 young women, over half of them are so inefficient that they do not deserve to receive what it reasonably costs them to live. In- stances are at hand of girls who have been started at $17 per month at work that required intelligence and application, and at the end of two years were receiveing only $20; of girls who started at $7 per week and at the end of 9 years were receiving $13. Department stores are known to have a waiting list. Fe- male help is not so scarce that a girl who cannot make herself worth more than $5.00 per week after two years' experience, is worth bothering with on the payroll. The same can be said of a clerk who with nine years' experience behind her is worth only $2.08 per day. A fallacy maintained by the managers and used as an excuse for their low wage scales is that girls who live at home do not need as much money as girls who are boarding. Many go so far as to require that a girl be living at home before they will employ her. The argument against this is that the girl at home surely eats three meals a day, as the girl adrift is suposed to do, and food for the former costs as much as for the latter. If she is receiving only enough to pay for her clothing, who pays for her food and laundry? If her parents or her guardians do, are they not contributing just that much toward the revenues of the store? and if she is a "charity girl," who pays for her lunches with the loss of her virtue, can she not hold the department store more heavily her debtor than do the parents of the virtuous girl? Table 2 on page -- shows that the average wage of the girl adrift is $21 a year more than the average wage of the girl living at home, but the same table also shows that the girl adrift has an annual deficit of $91.85 and no home to rely upon for payment of it. $145.86 is the annual deficit the department store girl at home would have to face, did she pay room and board fees, as does the girl adrift. Wages in the State at Large. Wages in retail stores outside of Portland average higher for the large majority, 'but do not reach the maximum paid here. Out of 14 towns reporting on this industry, only one has a wage of $6, or less, a week. The highest paid is $50. The average paid in the other twelve towns is $39.20. Table 5, page -- shows the average wage paid in the different in- dustries in all towns outside of Portland. Hours. It is a pleasure to record that since this investigation began, one of the large department stores of Portland has announced an eight-hour day for its employes. 28 Social Welfare Survey. In all but one of the department stores in Portland the girls "ring in" at eight o'clock. In Xo. 1, an SVj-hour day was given as a Christmas present to the employes. Here a 45-minute lunch hour is allowed, and in return for the sacri- ficed 15 minutes, the employes of one year or 'more are iven a week's vacation with pay. The firm can, even with this arrangement, save more than they pay out in vacation money. Besides this, many girls work less than a year, and though they give up the fifteen minutes of lunch hour for nine months, get nothing for it. However, this firm's example of 8 hours is much to be commended, since some of its competitors are still open 10 hours. Firm Xo. 2 not long ago began closing at 5:45 p. m., but at the same time took 15 minutes from the lunch hour. This firm does not open the store to the cus- tomers at present till 8:30 a. m., though the girls are required to be on duty at 8. To the clerks, this is very little relief as the trade the first hour after opening is so light that there is small difficulty in arranging stock. The third large firm has always opposed any policy that seemed to aim at real improvement in the condition of its employes. It still main- tains a full 10-hour day with an hour for lunch. On Satur- days, the employes work in broken shifts, an arrangement that betides ill for the girl living too far from home to return there betwee : n shifts. It has persisted in Saturday afternoon and evening work during the summer when its competitors announced that thev were willing to close if No. 3 would. Firm Xo. 1 stayed closed Saturday evenings for a year longer than 2 and 3 did when the experiment was tried several years ago, and eventually g^iven up. A fourth store during the past summer closed on Thursday afternoon each week. Saturday Evening Closing. Saturdav evening closing has been introduced to such an extent in eastern cities without harm to the owners' profits that it has been agitated here. Though the girls do not work more than ten hours on Saturday, the time off dur- ing the day means very little in the way of rest or accom- plishment, while the added expense of the Saturday night meal and during Christmas week of the six extra suppers down- town is complained of loudly. Xo instances have been re- ported of "lunch money" being given to skirls when kept down- town for night work, or of $1 or $1.25 being added to the Christmas week's wa^e. The evils of night work appeared particularly grave during the holiday season just closed, when some of the girls thought it necessary to take opiates to main- tain their strength for their work. Overtime. "Broken shifts" mentioned earlier is the arrangement sub- stituted for overtime. Yet overtime still exists in department Social Welfare Survey. 29 stores to a certain extent. Previous to Christmas, when the season for decorating was at hand, girls were asked whether they would "like" to come back on Sunday and work. Know- ing what refusal meant, they dared not "dislike" it. In some cases, when brought back on a Sunday, the doors were locked, and they were thus prevented from going home when they wished. During Christmas week girls in mail order and Dther departments worked as much as an hour overtime. Such a thing as overtime pay in these cases is unknown. Unemployment. Periodic rush seasons come in the Christmas holidays and in the before-Easter and spring season. After Christmas a large percentage of the force in the large stores is laid off. As a general rule, the clerks expect dismissal to be on the basis ot length of service, but they claim that they can never be certain of their positions even though employed for two years. One concrete instance was that of a girl in service for a year. A friend of the head of a department was put on for the Christinas rush; at the end of the holidays the new girl was given a permanent position, the old one laid off, the reason assigned being that she would not be needed in the dull sea- son. Her mother was ill and dependent on her, and the girl was in hard straits for work. A friend, hearing of this, in- terceded and after a month's unemployment, she was taken back. She did not blame the managers for this, saying that they knew nothing of it, but held the head of the department responsible. Hours Outside of Portland. ( Hitside of Portland, the standard of hours is a more le- nient one. Some firms do not maintain the full ten hours, but even where they do, the work is usually much lighter. Fewer customers, more opportunity to rest, less open sur- veillance and a feeling of friendliness between employer and employe make the limit of the law less a burden. Five, Ten and Fifteen Cent Stores. Though many of the statements made about wages, hours, conditions of employment in department stores apply to the 5c, lOc and 15c stores as well, their wages here as a whole are so miserable, their attempt to trade on the "youth and consequent cheapness" (see note at bottom of page) of the girls so open, that their system needs a special word. Below in Table 8 is given specific data concerning wage and length of time with firm of 13 girls in the 5c, lOc and 15c stores in Portland. This indicates that $4 a week is a begin- * "An ugly item in recent finance is the circular by the Woolworth Company (United 5c and lOc Stores), notifying subscribers that the investment would be profitable because of the small wages paid to clerks by reason of their youth and consequent cheapness." Mrs. Florence Kelley. 30 Social Welfare Survey. ning and long continued wage, $6 being about the happiest maximum that an applicant can expect. Local superintend- ents are controlled entirely by the eastern board of directors, but even the former realize the sham ef illness of the policy of the latter. A superintendent of one of the large 5c and lOc stores in the state made a statement which he said could be used for publication. He was not able to give the wage sched- ule without the consent of the owners ; for this, eastern head- quarters would have to be communicated with. He himself is in sympathy with Wage Legislation and declares that the syndicate which he represents will never raise the scale un- less compelled to by law. At the annual convention at San Francisco he took the floor and made a plea for an increase in wages for women, which was endorsed by all the other managers. The board of directors simply laughed them down. He says that he employs only girls who live at home, be- cause he knows the wages paid are not sufficient to support them otherwise. Investigation, however, showed some of the employes living "adrift." Their wages are regulated by a' cer- tain percentage of the sales set aside for the purpose. The board of directors does not care whether the superintendent spends that amount for 50 or 150 girls, but he must take care of the public and get results. TABLE 8. Wage Information Given by 13 Girls Working in Five and Ten Cent Stores. Number receiving $4.00 a week 4 Number receiving 4.50 a week 7 Number receiving 5.00 a week 1 Number receiving 6.00 a week 1 Total 13 No. First Wage. ' Time with Firm Present Wage 1 $4.00 1 month $4.00 2 4.00 1 month 4.00 3 4.00 2 months 4.00 4 4.00 6 months 4.00 5 4.00 3 months 4.50 6 4.00 6 months 4.50 7 4.00 2 months 5.00 8 4.50 2 months 4.50 9 4.50 4 months 4.50 10 4.50 2 months 4.50 11 4.50 1 week 4.50 12 4.50 2 months 4.50 13 6.00 2 months 6.00 Comments. "I have only money enough, after paying carfare, to pay for my clothing." "Mother helps me." "My salary is so small that I have to work for my room and board after working ten hours in the store. Sunday I wash and iron for the people I live with. My folks cannot help me." "Two children to support." Social Welfare Survey. 31 FACTORIES. Beginning Wages. From $3.00 to $6.00 per week is offered beginners in fac- tories. Bag factories offer $4.00, candy factories $5.00, woolen mills $6.00. Girls starting at $4.00 per week are kept on this rate for ten days or two weeks, when they are put on piece work. Clothing and shoe factories offer $1.00 per day each. Bookbinderies, which are unionized, pay $6.00 per week to beginners ; tent and awning factories $1.25 per day. Canneries start workers in immediately on piece work, which in the busy season for 12 or 16 hours daily work nets a woman from $3 to $5 per week. At the opening of the season, when fruit is not abundant, stemming strawberries is paid for at the rate of 18 cents a crate of 24 boxes ; stemming cherries at 14 cents per bushel. When fruit piled in and workers were in demand, 24 cents a crate of 24 boxes and 22 cents a bushel for cherries were offered. Tobacco factories also pay beginners by piece rate system. Stripping tobacco at 5 cents a pound nets a beginner here from 20 cents to 45 cents per day. Tobacco is so very light in weight that it fakes many leaves to make a pound. Wages in Factories. TABLE 9. Weekly Wage Schedule of 427 Women Factory Workers in Portland. u, o *1 *! 38 si S - * s Number Per Cent. . . 6 1.4 25 5.8 58 13.5 56 13.1 61 14.2 51 11.9 62 | 14.5 I 58 13.5 42 | 9.8 | 1.8 427 100 Table 9, above, shows in detail the weekly wage of 427 factory girls in Portland. We find here that women are working for $3.00 per week. From Table 10, showing the cumulative number and per cent of workers with their re- spective wage, we learn that 145 women, or one-third of the entire number investigated are earning under $7.00, while nearly one-half get less than $8.00 per week. TABLE 10. Cumulative Number and Per Cent, of 427 Women Factory Employes in Portland classified by weekly earnings. M S J o in k, b b ti i y 1 T3 *O o o *o ri o C 3 a c B H e L^ D > D tD ^ tJ Number 6 31 89 145 206 257 319 108 427 Per Cent 1.4 7.2 20.8 33.9 48.1 60.1 74.7 25.3 100 32 Social Welfare Survey. Maximum Wage. Forty-five cents a day is an impossible wage. Six dollars or $7.50 per week may be unquestioned where it is maintained merely as apprentice's wages and dispensed with when the girl has learned to work, but apparently several years oi service count lor no more than an apprentice's hours. In Table 10 above we find that out of 427 factory women in Portland, 74.7 per cent, or three-fourths, are earning less than $10.00 a week; 13.5 per cent are earning $10, whi-le 11.6 per cent are earning over $12, but less than $20 a week. 50 women out of 427 are represented by 11.6 per cent. The wages of $12, but less than $20, represent in some cases the result of 18 years work at an industry. They are the maximum that these women may expect to earn. One fact that is re- sponsible for this stationary maximum wage is that when a piece worker begins to 'accumulate speed, the prices of work are cut, and she finds herself set back a year as far as her earning power is concerned. The director of the investigation and one of her investi- gators, in order to learn the truth as to wages, conditions of labor, efficiency of workers, and causes of inefficiency, have during the investigation worked in ten different facto^ ries. In one of the paper box factories where she applied, an investigator started at $4 per week. She stayed three days only, but during that time, kept account of what 'her earnings would have been had she been working on piece rates. In order to be fair to the factory management, she worked her very hardest and wasted no time. She discovered that the first day she would have earned 78 cents, second day 68 cents and the third day 58 cents. She felt that though new to the work, she should have been able to earn a good wage, as she brought a higher degree of training and adaptability than did some of the unschooled workers. One reason for her decrease in wage was that the first day's work would have been paid at the rate of 10 cents per 100 pieces and required three handlings. It was unskilled, but needed a little care. The second day's work required the same number of hand- lings, was paid at the same rate, but required twice the time to bring the supplies and dispose of them, and much dexterity in handling materials. The third day's work required nine handlings, and was paid for at the rate of 15 cents per 100, three times as -much work, with only 50 per cent more compensation. To one of the girls who had worked there a year, the remark was made that it would take a long time to earn 15 cents at the third class of work, and she an- swered, "Oh, you can make absolutely nothing on that." One young woman, who had spent four years in this trade, who had a mother and younger sisters dependent upon her, and Social Welfare Survey. 33 was an earnest, quiet worker, was able to make between $9 and $10 only, even in the busy season. This, she maintained, was because such inefficient help was employed in the pre- paring room that rough, uneven work was done, and pre- vented the skilled help from working as swiftly as they could if careful work were put into the foundation of the boxes. To the investigator, it seemed that so unpromising was the wage, so wearisome and exhausting the work and the effort to make a few cents, that one need not be surprised if the girls take no pride in what they accomplish, are careless and indif- ferent as to the work they do, so long as it can pass the fore- man. Poor conditions of workrooms are also responsible for shiftlessness, but this will be shown later. TABLE 11. Factories in Portland Reporting Wage Schedules of Women Workers. g g & s w "O rt 1 1 l! ^ >> It 1 d w ji> ^U 5 ^ 1 Number 53 21 1306 $3.00 $8.20 Hours. Strict enforcement of the 10-hour day, 60-hour week fe- male labor law has done away with much of the overtime work that previously existed. The problem is solved in some places now by working a night shift in the Christmas and spring rush seasons. Some managers still prefer to run the risk of being caught at permitting or forcing overtime work and being made to pay the penalty. Some of the factories blow the work Whistle at 7 :00 o'clock a. m., but the majority employing women do not start before 7 :30. An hour for lunch is granted. Factories start- ing at 7 :30 close at 5 :30. Fifteen minutes for cleaning work- rooms is often given just before closing time, but in those establishments where less than a 60-hour per week schedule is maintained, employes use part of Saturday afternoon for sweeping floors and scrubbing work tables. Fruit and vegetable canneries are probably the most flag- rant violators of the labor law, both as to length of hours ^of women's work and age of children permitted to work. The child labor law forbids employment of children under 16, even dur- ing the vacation months without a permit, and under no cir- cumstances is a permit given to a child under 12 years of age. Yet investigators working in the canneries in the summer of 1912 saw children under 11 years of age with their parents, Social Welfare Survey. and sometimes unaccompanied, work more than the ten hours a day allowed an adult. Canneries are open at 6 o'clock a. m. They close at 10:30 p. m. One-half hour is permitted at noon for lunch. Employes are threatened with loss of work if they stop for an evening lunch, and because this threat doeo not always keep them in, the entrance doors are sometimes locked at 6 o'clock. Children of 12 and 13 employed in the factories have been seen crying in the evening because they were too tired to work, yet could not get home on account of locked doors. Overtime is paid in the cannery at the regular piece rates. At the close of the season, old men and women who could not work elsewhere were kept on peeling apples for 2 cents a pan, and this in an unheated, fog-laden, damp cement-floored workroom. Earlier in the season the rate had been 3 cents a pan ! Unemployment. The rush season for bag and paper box, candy and fur factories comes just before Christmas. Paper box and candy establishments are busy again from February to Easter, when the clothing season begins to "swing in full." Canneries main- tain only a six months' season from June until December. The problem of unemployment which is suggested by the mention of "rush" and "dull" seasons is a serious one to the workers. Practically three-fourths of the wage-earning women of the state have to reckon on a period of unemployment which must be prepared for "somehow or other." Industries such as the canneries are known to be open for only a few months. They employ in part a class of women, often mothers of households, who do not work away from home the other six months of the year, or if they do, engage for "day work," but to them the money that they can earn during these summer months means much toward the winter fuel and winter clothes of children. They employ, too, girls who may have been dismissed from a trade starting on its quiet season. Sometimes they have been out of work for one or two months, trying to get work somewhere else, but dependent on this when June comes. In such trades as the clothing, shoe, candy and can mak- ing industries, which run all year, the applicant is always hoping for an opportunity to "make good" to the extent that she will be kept on when the dull season 'arrives. To her un- employment means a serious evil. Her wages during em- ployment do not keep her well housed and clothed. How can she save for the day when she will be out of work? Figures of the number employed in the two seasons in a few of the trades show the extent of the problem. Clothing factories hiring 300 and 150 dismiss 200 and 100 respectively in the dull Social Welfare Survey. 35 season. Three other factories of different work employing 150, 80 and 20 respectively in the busy season dismiss 115, 60 and 15 in the dull season. Unemployment in other trades will be noted when they are described. LAUNDRIES. Wages. Laundry work has the name of being one of the best paid lines requiring chiefly hand work. In reality, it is one of the poorest. The minimum wage is $1.25 a day, but the maximum is $2.00, above which even the most skilled seldom go. Below is a typical wage schedule: TABLE 12. Markers $1.50 per day. Starch Room 15c and 17*c to 20c per hour. Manglers $1.35 to $1.50 per day. Folders $1.25 to $1.35 per day. Stackers $1.25 to $1.35 per day. Body Manglers $1.75 to $2.00 per day. Ironers $1.50 to $2.00 per day. TABLE 13. Weekly Wage Schedules of Women Workers in Portland. Laundries. 140 Women Employes. fl l{ s s - V. V g o 3 n V 3 o| .0** si J2 re O 29 38 41 22 6 4 140 Per Cent 20.6 27.1 29.2 15.7 | 4.3 2.8 100 TABLE 14. Cumulative Number and Per Cent, of 140 Women Employed in Portland Laundries, classified by weekly earnings. 8 o u ,_, t& | u B 1 1 "c T3 a t> > H ^ 5 tJ O MutnhAr 29 67 108 130 10 140 Per Cent 20.6 47.7 76.9 92.6 7.4 100 Table 13 shows the weekly wage schedule of 140 women workers in Portland. From this it appears that though man- agers announce their minimum as that given above, $1.25 per day, there are 29 laundry workers in Portland Who are earning only $1 a day. None reported earning $15 a week. Those earning $12 per week are l-35th of the whole number; those earning $10 are l-23rd of the 140. Table 14 shows the cumu- lative number earning under $10. 130 out of the 140 women interviewed, are earning less than it costs them to live. (See Cost of Living Tables). 36 Social Welfare Survey. Hours. Out of 19 laundries investigated in Portland, but two re- ported a day less than 9 hours ; the remainder vary between that and 10 hours. Overtime. Overtime is paid for at the rate of from 10 cents to 12^2 cents an hour. Beginning in May and continuing through the summer, laundries work to almost their full capacity. In the warmest months, overtime from one-half to three hours a day is exacted. As one woman remarked, "The exhaustion of overtime is not worth the 10 to 20 cents mere carfare that we earn." Like the factories and department stores, the laundries lay off a large percentage of their help during the dull season. The experienced ironers may find it possible to do family washing by the day, but for the more unskilled workers the problem of being out of work in the winter time is a serious one. Wages Outside of Portland. Wages in laundries throughout the state so very nearly approach the wage in Portland that scarcely any comment is needed. Table 5 shows that the average wage per month of 518 women working in laundries outside of Portland is $39.50. The hardships of the work diminish slightly with the volume of it. Hours Outside of Portland. Of 32 laundries outside of Portland investigated as to hours of work, 2 reported an 8-hour day; 12 a 9-hour day, and 15 -a full 10-hour day. Some of those who maintain a 9-hour schedule are competing with others who maintain a 9%-hour day. OFFICE HELP. Wages. Beginners' Wages. For an occupation that calls tor a more mature worker than some of the confessedly low-paid industries, 'and for one that demands brain rather than brawn, office work offers astonishingly small wages. In this investi- gation, those who did stenographic and bookkeeping work were not separated from those who did stenographic work only, for the reason that where a stenographer has books to keep they are usually simple and easy. Those classed as TABLE 15. Weekly Wage Schedules of Women Workers in Portland. Office Help (not including Stenographers) 126 employes. s* 2- * s Number | 3 | 13 | 7 Per Cent | 2.3 | 10.2 | 5.5 25 19.7 11 8.7 20 15.8 24 18.3 18 14.2 5 3.9 126 100 Social Welfare Survey. 37 general office help included filers, billers, stock girls, desk clerks and cashiers. The lowest wage indicated in Table 15 is $5 per week. Record on hand tells of a girl who started for $17 per month, and at the end of two years had been ad- vanced to $20 per month. Twenty-five dollars per month is a frequent offer to coptometer, billing and filing clerks, but $30 and $35 are also met with. TABLE 16. Cumulative Number and Per Cent, of Women Employes in offices (not including Stenographers in Portland, classified by weekly earnings. to & ft s 2 fc u V w w 3 A o o *o S O C C c p; E M D D 3 p o Number 3 16 23 48 59 67 126 Per Cent 2.3 12.5 18.0 37.7 46.4 53.6 100 Stenographers, it may be noted. Table 17, start out at as low a figure as do the billers, filers and cashiers, who may ob- tain a position without a business course training, but stenog- raphers advance more quickly and at. a higher rate of pay. Cumulative Table 16 shows that out of 126 general office em- ployes 59, or nearly one-half, are earning under $10; 67 slightly more than one-half, are earning over $10. Ta ; ble 18 shows that out of 85 stenographers, 19, or less than one-fourth, are earning under $10; 66, or nearly three-fourths, are earning over $10 per week. Below $10 per week and above $10 per week is made the point of comparison in this line of work, as in all others, but on account of the higher standard of living which an office employe must maintain to hold her position, it is a question as to whether the living wage for those in this line of work should not be more than $10 per week. TABLE 17. Weekly Wage Schedules of Women Workers in Portland. Stenographers. 85 Women Employes. 3* a u V *! ts w 4 8 ^W c 3 s s :i s 3W- .0 ^ o>'D a* c P IS o v S*o ~ +2 J3** al * J* s'l * I V (5 Totals Number l 2 5 1 4 1 7 4 17 | 39 1 6 85 Per Cent l.l 2.3 5.8 '4.6 1 8.1 4.6 19.8 | 45.6 '| 7.0 100 TABLE 18. Cumulative Number and Per Cent, of 85 Women Stenographers in Portland classified by weekly earnings. & S & o A | I | o c LI 6 c c V t3 C V "O X 1 e p D D D O Number I 3 | 8 12 19 66 85 Per Cent 1.1 3.5 | 9.3 14.0 22.4 72.5 100 38 Social Welfare Survey. Firms which offer a low beginning wage are the smaller law and real estate offices, some physicions, specialized retail stores and large corporations which, though they pay maxi- mum wages, also offer the very minimum, and wholesale houses, not manufacturers. Classification of business houses according to the line of work, for salaries paid office help, is difficult, because the wage frequently depends on the character of the head of the firm, and not on the nature of the work. Among the small law 'a;nd real estate firms, where $30 and $35 a month is a common beginning wage, employers say that the work is so light that the girl does not earn more. Because of the low wage they offer, they are willing to take students fresh from business colleges, and give them more time and pa- tience than they would if the applicant were experienced. Fre- quently she is given permission to take in outside work. An income so earned is uncertain and variable. Maximum Wages. Some firms adopt a maximum wage and refuse to go higher, regardless of the ability of the applicant. "Start at $40, raise to $45, the most we will pay. If you want to earn more, don't come here," was the statement of the manager of a retail firm carrying a special line of goods, recognized as the best of its class in the city. Others adopt a bullying attitude, which is very effective, especially in the case of a timid girl away from home. One ambitious girl, who is able to hold a good position, and will not be content with less than she can earn, was heard to say, "So-and-so has worked for that firm (whole- sale hardware) for three years, and she is getting only $50. She is a hard worker, too, but she is scared to death of that man, scared to ask for a raise, and scared to leave. Th^y treat the girls too mean for 'anything." Other employers declare that efficient help is scarce ; that they would gladly advance a young woman to a good position and good wages if they could get one who would take an inte- rest in the business. This is very often true, but it is also true that employers themselves are partially reponsible for the inefficients filling their stenographic positions today. An average maximum for general office work is $50 a month. Five out of 126 young women in Portland, or l-25th, are receiving over $20 a week. The average maximum for stenographers and bookkeepers is $65 or $70 a month. Those who receive more than $20 a week are out of the ordinary in their line of work, or combine with it private, secretarial or confidential clerk's ability. Hours. Eightv-eight persons from the total 211 office workers re- ported on hours of work. Sixteen, or not quite one-fifth, work Social Welfare Survey. 39 less than eight per clay. Twenty-eight, or nearly one-third, work between eight and nine hours ; thirty-nine, or nearly one- half, between nine and ten hours. Five girls record working overtime. Single firms are usually considerate about overtime pay, at least in the form of lunch money. Unemployment. In offices, work has none of the irregularity of mercantile and manufacturing establishments. The summer vacation and post-holiday seasons are recognized as the time when changes are likely to be made. In the coast cities, however, first-class stenographers from the East find it difficult to get work, and the supply is usually greater than the demand. Outside of Portland. Wages. Forty-five women doing general office work throughout the state averaged $35.50 a month. Sixteen stenographers aver- age $50 a month, which indicates that the wage schedule is practically the same as Portland's. The situation is a little bet- ter in those sections of the state where the cost of living is lower than it is in Portland. Moving Picture Show Cashiers. The cashiers of the moving picture shows, who have been classified with office help, call for special mention o>n account of their hours of work. This industry escapes the restrictions of the Female Labor Law, because it cannot be classed as a "manufacturing, mechanical or mercantile industry." Hence cashiers often work over ten hours a day for seven days a week. Hours of work range from 11 A. M. till IIP. M. One girl stated that this was an advantage for her, because she could not afiford three meals a day and by staying in bed in the morning she was not likely to miss her breakfast. The wage offers little compensation. The lowest wage reported was $6 a week. The highest was $12. Of 14 women inter- viewed, 13 were receiving under $10 a week. PRINTING TRADES. Wages. Portland has 42 printing shops, all of which recognize the union. Sixty-five women earn their living in these shops, binding pamphlets and books. When the union was estab- lished," a minimum wage of $6 a week was asked for each apprentice. The ruleS existing now are that she may be kept at this wage for six months, when, if proficient, she is to be advanced to $6.50 per week. At the end of the year she will receive a further advance of 50c per week. If she is a slow girl, the employer may keep her at $6 per week for a year, when he is 'required to pay her $7, if he expects to retain 40 Social Welfare Survey. her. At the end of two years she is earning $8, and at the end of three years must be paid $9 a week. This is as far as the union demands go in regard to wages. While an apprentice, a worker is employed chiefly at pamphlet binding. Blankbook work considered skilled is the aim of 'all girls. Maximum Wages. After several more years of service, a woman may reach the sum of $10 per week, but this is the maximum for a great majority. Length of service, which should count for some- thing, helps not at all in increasing wages, so say the work- ers. Bookbinding is one of the trades at which women work for many years, many leaving it only to get married. Fre- quently they return to it later in life. In the printing- trade in Portland, embracing typists, copy-readers and bookbinders, Table 20 shows that of 57 investigated, 32 are earning under $10, nine are earning over* $12. The remaining 16 are earn- ing between $10 and $12. Of these 16 two women are earning $11 per week, who have been at the trade for 11 years. Of the nine earning between $12 and $20, six are typists, three are foreladies earning $12, $13 and $15 a week. No bookbinder, though she stayed at the trade 18 years, was ever known to earn over $15 per week. TABLE 19. Weekly Wage Schedules of Women Workers in Portland. Printing Trades. 57 Women Employes. * 3** *a *2 s2 S g w *| fc U V V u o w S3 13 D O 1 9 12 31 105 108 Per Cent .46 4.2 5.6 14.5 49.2 50.8 Table 24 shows that of 213 girls interviewed, 105 are re- ceiving under $10; 108 are receiving $10 or over. 44 Social Welfare Survey. MISCELLANEOUS TRADES. Wages. Hours. Hairdressers. Girls desiring to learn this trade have two opportunities open to them. They may work for four months without pay, as apprentices, or they may pay $25 to learn the trade, spend- ing six weeks at it, and have the promise of a position at $7 per week at the end of that time. Girls serving without pay are kept at cleaning and preparing combings for switches the larger part of the time. The hair is in all stages of mussi- ness, and handling it is very disagreeable work. Apprentices are paid $6 per week. Gradually they learn to give shampoos, manicures and to dre'ss hair. Girls who have worked at this trade say there is no reason at all for being kept three or four months on combings for switches, as the work is absolutely unskilled and one knows how to do it after a few days. The most experienced girls earn $15 per week. Many who are proficient cannot get more than $10. Department stores insist on experience and start girls at $6 per week unless they are able to handle hairdressing as well as manicuring. Girls who work up a trade independently make good money. The hours for those employed in the shops vary between nine and ten per day. Janitress Work. This is a line of work that is laborious from its very na- ture. It is exhausting also because of the night hours and the broken days. The wages range from $7 to $10 per week. The hours are difficult to state. Some women come at 6 o'clock in the evening and work until 9 or 10 o'clock, or until mid- night. Those working only three or four hours in the evening must come back early in the morning. Dressmaking. The investigation did not concern itself with women who sew by the day in families. A woman who is a plain sewer only, can earn $2 a day with at least two meals. Reports were sought from fitters and sewers in department stores and pri- vate shops. $7 and $8 per week are the regular wages for beginners who know how to sew; $10 per week is the wage received by the majority, but first-class fitters and fancy waist-makers receive $12 and $15 per week. In shops where only tailoring is done, th'e tailor-owner doe's the fitting himself. Hours vary between 9 and 10 per day. Most dressmaking s'hops that make fancy gowns for women close for one month, in some cases two months each year. Social Welfare Survey. 45 Millinery. The lowest wage recorded durkg the investigation is that of a millinery apprentice receiving $1.50 per week, and her schedule had the note, "In slack time I am laid off/' Pros- pects in the wholesale houses are not very bright ; $4 per week is a stock girl's wage ; $6 per week is a frequent wage for makers. Trimmers reach $10. A peculiarity in the wholesale millinery work is that every fall, milliners flock from ^mall towns to the larger cities and work for a week or two in the wholesale houses to learn the styles. Calls come in from shops all over the state for new workers. This affords the girl out of work, or the one who may want to change her position, a chance to hear of an opening. This renders conditions very difficult for the girl who works in a wholesale house the year through, as an abundance of help in the rush season keeps her wage continually low. Smaller shops pay trimmers and makers from $10 to $15 per week. Unemployment in this trade for a large share of the workers amounts to at least two months a year. Cleaning and Dyeing. This line of work might be classed by some with regular laundry work, but it is given separate notice here because the conditions under which the work is done are better, and the wage is frequently higher. Pressers receive from $9 per week to $16 per week; $12 is a more frequent wage. There is some danger to the health of the workers in the room where the cleaning processes are carried on. Hours vary between 8 and 9 a day. Table 25 shows that of 39 girls interviewed, 19 are re- ceiving less than $10 per week; 20 are receiving over $10. TABLE 25. MISCELLANEOUS TRADES. Weekly Wage Schedules of Women Workers in Portland. OCCUPATION. Demonstrators, Hair Dressers, Cleaning and Dyeing, Millinery and Dressmaking, Janitress. ! C* *! -s | o| sl.i-l | ~g ! [ * ~ a ~gj~ Number | 1 | 1 | | 2 | 3 | 5 | 7 | 9 \ 9 \ 2 \ 39 46 Social Welfare Survey. CONDITIONS OF LABOR Factories. Light and Air. Fault can not be found with many of the larger plants on the score of lack of window space. Smaller establishments, such as tailoring shops, furriers, and millinery stores, are often located on one or two floors in downtown shops, which have a front facing of not more than twenty feet in width ; in the rear the windows open onto a court, or there may be no windows at all. The front half of the shop is used for show and salesrooms, the rear half curtained or partitioned off for a workroom. The latter is usually so dark that artificial light is needed all the time. Very little fresh air can come in from the rear, and practically none from the front room, which is aired by the coming and going of the customers. Frequently the toilet is placed in the workroom without even a curtain protecting it. In such cases it invariably ventilates into the workroom. In one instance, in a high-priced milli- nery shop, the girls complained a great deal. The health officer had been there, but nothing was done to remedy the condition until one of the girls came down with scarlet lever. Then the toilet was enclosed, and other precautions were taken. In another rear workroom one of the employes had to sit with her back against a "shoe box" toilet door. This girl frequently had "fainting fits." In this same place, a cracked sink, which the owner had attempted to patch up with plaster of paris, allowed the water to drip on the floor. For many months one of the workers, on account of the loca- tion of her work table, had to stand on this wet spot, where the water drained. Eventually, she had to give up her work on account of ill health and went to the country to recover. In the same place, until this spring, the employes drank from a galvanized pail with a wooden cover. Other firms of this class, such as tailors and milliners, sometimes have the entire floor for show and fitting rooms, and use a balcony for a workroom. As this is usually built in at the front of the store, the light is very good