^-%^M ' m >* EX LIBRIS DANIEL C CAHALANE ^^S^SI^S. At .^ -^^ TENT LIFE WITH ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY. CARL XV. KING OF NORWAY AND SWEDEN. OBIIT 18 SEI'T. 1S72. TENT LIFE WITH ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NOBWAY. HUBERT SMITH, MEMBER OF THE ENGLISH ALPINE CLUB ; NOKSKE TURIST FORENING ; AND FELLOW OF THE HISTORICAL SOCIETY OF GREAT BRITAIN. FIVE FULL-PAGE ENGRAVINGS, THIRTY-ONE SMALLER ILLUSTRA- TIONS, AND MAP OF THE COUNTRY, SHOWING ROUTES. Henry S. King & Co., (35, CoRNHiLL, (S: 12, Paternoster Row, Lo>-do:s. 1873. ^ [T/te Riyht of Translation is reserved hy the Authur.'] DEDICATED AS A SINCERE TRIBUTE TO HIS LATE MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY GAEL XV. BY THE KIND AND SPECIAL PERMISSION OF HIS PRESENT MOST GRACIOUS MAJESTY OSCAR II. KING OP NORWAY AND SWEDEN. or>. Q '^ ■'^ '""^/T* PREFACE. We awoke one morning ; oiir gipsies were gone ; our camp was gone ; no light shining through as we lay in our tent. No freshness of the morning air ; no wafted perfume of fragrant wild flowers ; no music of the waterfall in the glen below. We were left to pursue the pathway of our journey alone. Yet our notes de voyage remained to us. Impres- sions caught on the wayside of travel — written by the light of actual circumstance — we give them to our readers. They are a true episode in a life. THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS. PAGE Introduction xxi CHAPTER I. Norway — Our gipsy tent — Tent fittings — Cooking apparatus — Com- missariat — Gipsies' tent — Bagage de luxe — Weight of baggage — Transit — Donkeys — Our party — Esmeralda .... 1 CHAPTER II. Gipsy equipment — Norwegian gipsies — Proesten Eilert Sundt — The Hull .steamer — The tourist's friend — Our gipsy song . . . 11 CHAPTER III. A friend's misgiving — Dark forebodings— A sleepless night — The railway station — The Albion — A philosopher — The street boy — Distinguished travellers . . 19 CHAPTER IV. England's farewell — Summer tourists — The chevalier — Seafaring — A gipsy reception — Cliange of plans — Norwegian pilot — The Bir- mingham bagman — Inducement to authorship — Strange wills — A sailor's philosophy — Icelandic language — Prognostications . 26 CHAPTER V. A seaman's adventures — The unfortunate tourist — An apt quotation- Freemasonry — Christiansand — Past recollections — The Runic stone — Overpayment — Two salmon fishermen — A traveller's curiosity — Norwegian snakes — Scenery — We are one — Golden opinions ........... 36 CONTENT.^. CHAPTER VI. PAGE Mariner's life — The evasive ans%vcr— A tnie pvesentiment — The King of Norway and Sweden — The beautiful Ijord — Gipsy music — A custom-house difficulty — Another Freemason — Appropriate verses Christiania — Hor^e money— 17, Store Strandgade . . 46 CHAPTER VII. The Victoria Hotel — Tlie Gipsies' friend — The passe-partout — Prcesten Eilert Sundt — The Christiania railway — Our donkeys appreciated — Gipsy spirit — The " tolk " — Norwegian money — Linguistic dif- ficulties — Gipsy authors — Gipsy numerals — DejDarture from Cliristiania . . . . . . . . . . . 54 CHAPTER VIII. A Norwegian officer — Norwegian emigration — Eidsvold — The Skyd- skiftet — Quiet retreat — Happy hours — Baiersk ol — Esmeralda's toilette — The transformation — Curious address — New acquaint- ance — Noah's engagement — Noah's conquest — An ungrateful visitor — A reluctant parting ....... 61 CHAPTER IX. ]\Ioderate bill — Provisions lost — We meet again — Gipsies in advance — Left alone — A welcome telegram — Norwegian bath room — Singular paintings — Once more farewell — The telegraph clerk — The Mjosen Lake — The Dronningen — Ruined cathedral — Utili- tarianism — Lillehammer- — Once more in camp . . . . 75 CHAPTER X. Our first camp— Camp visitors — Gipsy music — Foreign tableau — Curious observations — Preparations for departure — Early start — Laing's suggestions — The Gudliransdalen — The Hunnefos — The Australian meat — Camp rules — The pair of gloves — Sudden Shadows — Our talisman — New friends ..... 80 CHAPTER XI. Night alarm — The Puru Rawnee — Donkeys admired — Norwegian ponies — Our gipsy life — Norwegian flowers — Wild forest — The pipe of tobacco — Pictures of imagination — The crippled man — Camp near Holmen — Noah's self-denial — Wet night — Peasant girls' serenade — Zachariali's gaiety — Lovely nature — Norwegian newspaper — The mystery explained — Frokost spoilt . . . 102 CONTENTS. xi CHAPTER XIT. PACE Unsuccessful fishing — A military officer — Tlie dernier ressort— Our gipsy reception — Interrupted toilette— Fete cliampetre— Dancing on the greensward — Tincture of cedar — The disappointment — The Losna Vand— The kettle prop lost— Peasant children- Interesting discussions— "Writing under difficulties — The kindly heart . ' 118 CHAPTER XIII. Wet travelling — Vodvang — Our Eussian lamp — Swedish visitors — All well — Our hobhinengree — The child of nature — Guitar songs — Tlie village beau — Merles gone — The musketos' victory — More rain — Scotch traveller — Timber floaters — Gipsies — Enraged Englishman — The frightened skydskarl — Gipsies' endurance — The Listari commotion — Listad scenery 129 CHAPTER XIV. A gorgio — Comfortable bondegaards — More speile — The lost key — Den Asen toujours — Vegetable substitute — The goodlo discussion — Wives' utility — Friendly peasants — Norwegian waltz — Gipsy chafl^ — The dark woman — Anxious querists — Early visitors — Timid woman — Gipsies appreciated — The charming post-mistress — The mansion near Harpe Bro 145 CHAPTER XV. The velocipede — Eoadside halt — Lovely scenery — Disappointed audience — The little gipsy — The lost pocket — The search — Gipsy lamentation — Amused peasant girls— Norwegian honesty The pocket found — A noble heart — Pleasant voyageurs — Patrins — Storklevstad — Tambourine lost — Norwegian honesty — Ec- centric visits — Interrogatory — The captain — The interview— The village magnate— Meget godt— Esmeralda in camp — The last visit — The moorland maiden ........ 158 CHAPTER XVI. Colonel Sinclair — Qvam church — Death of Sinclair — Monsieur le Capitaine — The Highflyer — The Hedals — Romantic legend — Antique mansion — The Kringelen — Kind reception — Warm wel- come — The broken tent-pole — The reindeer hunter — The Rudane Fjelde — Gipsy -looking woman — More fish — Chiromancy Esmeralda's fortune — The handsome captain — His sporting ad- venture — Esmeralda's gift — Our soiree dansante — Gipsies' glee . 174 xii CONTENTS. CHAPTER XVIL PAQG Gipsies' aflfcction — Laurgaard adieu — Beautiful gorges— Onward ever — Esmeralda's Irish song — Dovre — Friendly travellers — The Landhandelri — The Herr Tofte— King's visit — Our night camp — Night disturbance — Kindness to animals — Our beautiful bouquet — Snehajtten Fjeld — Dombaas — Comfortable situation — Wild scenery — Opportune visit — Illusory hope . . . . lOfi CHAPTER XVIII. The new tent pole — What is indigestion ? — Peasants at camp — A -new friend — Holaker station — Norwegian honesty — Loesje Vand — The tetteramengry — An unsolved mystery — The gipsy collapse — Good advice — Interest in donkeys — A mountain district — No church bells — The boy's questions — The Kjolen Fjeldene . . 202 CHAPTER XIX. Esmeralda at the lake— Our cadeau — The visitors — Disappointment — An Adonis — The silent visit — The old mill — A Norwegian fox The Puru RawTiee's fall — The forest scene — Zachariah's torment — Under discipline — Music in the forest — Distant admirers — The English hunter's gift — Our gipsies fishing — The militia camp — Silent visitor — Ornamental iladbrod— A forest concert . 213 CHAPTER XX. Noah unwell — The tine — New scenes — The leper — Hasty departure — Lesjevcerks Vand — Well met — Agreeable wanderers — Specialty of travel — Delicious trout — Lake scenery — Norwegian postman — Night visitor — More tourists — Molmen church . . . 227 CHAPTER XXI. The Rauma — A loftj^ climb— More rain — The forest walk— Tent life — Peasant fete — Norwegian dancing — Zachariah's ride — The wood carvings— A psalmodion — Stueflaaten — The Romsdal — Magnificent scenery — English spoken. ..... 2^7 CHAPTER XXII. The Dontind — Ormein — Mountain road — Our bivouac — Delighted visitor — The water ell" — Excited gipsies — Tage en Stol — Nor- wegian girls — Sunday on the Rauma — Carriole travelling — Coming to grief — " Spille " a little —Esmeralda's birthday — The CONTENTS. PACK Norwegian climate — The Sjiriaglns — Uncomfortable bed — The large ant 248 CHAPTER XXIII. Musical peasant — Cascades — The leaning-stone— The serious peasant — Zachariah ill — No ventilation — The Magician's Peaks — The Mangehoe — " Ramulous " — Romantic valley — Agreeable visitors — The serenade — Future route — Horgheim — Rip van Winkle , 261 CHAPTER XXIV. The invalid — Restive donkeys — Fiva — Aak — Veblungsnojs — The Norwegian farmer — The grassy knoll — A Norwegian toAvn— The fjord's shore — The Veblungsnces' baths — Herr Solberg — Homme galant— Musical conversazione — Gipsy music .... 273 CHAPTER XXV. Purchases — Zachariah's trouble — Esmeralda's photograph — The kiod — Price of meat — The yachtsmen — The three peaks — The sjiirit- world — Frost-bites — Ultima Thule — Esmeralda galvanised — Tlie fjord — Heen Kirke — Parelius — Eider ducks — Beautiful bouf^uets 285 CHAPTER XXVI. Our guide — To the mountains — Mystic light — The photographs — The "Claymore" yacht — Norwegian gipsies — Singular race — Occu- pations — Gij)sy burials — Romantic love — Predestination — The bondegaard — The high demand — Esmeralda's souvenir . ,297 CHAPTER XXVII. Adieu, Aak — Romsdalshorn — Troldtindeme — Fladmark — Young Norwegian ladies — Our fair visitors — A night scene — Morning meal — Exhausted peasants — Esmeralda's compliment — A gipsy cuisine — How gipsies sleep — Our guide arrives — The invisible bather — The race — The river Groua 307 CHAPTER XXVIII. Botanising— Esmeralda lost — Found again — The Eagle — Mountain difhculties — Mountain bivouac — Esmeralda ill — Ole's bed — Hotel bills — Rough route — Donkeys in snow — The Puru Rawnee down — The Ny soeter — Gijisy discussion — The Englishman's house— Hospitality — Norj^egian names — Fillingsho — Large lake 319 CONTENTS. CHAPTER XXIX. PAGE The peasants' wood — Skeaker — Our fair visitor -Esmeralda's indig- nation — The gipsy hornjjipe — The fate of Ezekiel — FeeLle advocacy — The Rankny rackly — The Otta Vand . . . 332 CHAPTER XXX. The wasps' nest — Lorn — Kind friends — Songs of Bjornsen — The Proesten's ministration — The repulsed student — Beautiful valley — The two artists — The BoeverElven— Rodsheim— The ravine — • The lost stardy— Ascent of Galdhopiggen — The highest moun- tain in Norway — The night ascent — The dome of snow — The !>unrise 340 CHAPTER XXXI. The reindeer's fate — Desolate scene — Several ascents — The frightened peasants — A coat lost— Esmeralda's views — Absent treasures — Ole re-engaged — A new kettle prop— The handsome artist — Com- fortable station — Adieu, Rodsheim — Our excellent guide — Cross- ing tlie bridge —Zachariah's escape ...... 352 CHAPTER XXXII. Tlie Elv Soeter — A mountaineer — The Ytterdal Soeter — To make grod — The grod stick — Evening concert — A wild night — The water- fall — Moimtain glaciers — The Lera Elv — Camp by a glacier- Nomadic happiness — A gipsy maelstrom — Insect life . . . 363 CHAPTER XXXIII. The Virgin Peak — Esmeralda in the Lera — A dripping Nereid — Heavy clouds — The Church Mountain — Wild reindeer — Where's the tea? — Singular glacier — Valley of red sandstone — The Hunter's Cave— The Utladal Stol— The Mumpley VaUey— Flods- grod — A mountain stbl — A rough path — The Puru Rawnee's escape — The narrow bridge . . 374 CHAPTER XXXIV. A difficult crossing — Agaiu en route — Skogadal Soeter — Soeter accom- modation — Splendid scenery — The Skogadals Elv — The mys- terious bone — Mountain exploration — The pack horses — A slippery floor — Music in the Soeter — Flceskedal Stol— The Mork Fos— Magnificent fall — The cliff's edge — The iris — All pay and no comfort — A reindeer shot — The deserted farm — A mountain shadow 389 CONTENTS. XV CHAPTER XXXV. PAGE I'lif Meisgrie — We cross a river — The slipj^ery rock — An active guide — The carrier's aid — The lame horse — Melkedalstinderne — The stony way — The Nedrevand — Ole's night quarters — The lake by moonlight — Early rising— Eisbod on the Bygdin Lake — The poet's house — Vinje, the poet — The poetical mortgage — Pleasant acquaintance — Old Norwegian poetry — The reindeer hunter — Esmeralda condoned ... 404 CHAPTER XXXVI. Lake Tyen — The Tourist Club chalet — Lortwick Soeter— Lake drift- wood — A cold morning — A cheap meul — Thunder in the air — Sunshine again — The separation — The gallant Ole farewell — To Christiania — Energy always — Push on — The Bergen road — The violinist — One dollar more — Picturesque scene .... 420 CHAPTER XXXVII. Camp on Lille Mjosen — The Skjyri Fjeld — An accjuaintance from Eisbod — Camp rules confirmed — Our gipsy Noah — Englisli spoken — Singular stone — Oiloe station — Our friend from Eisbod — Artist souvenir's — Zachariah's sport — Fast travelling — Harvest time — Secluded camp — Able pleading — The Stee Station — Obliging hostess — Tether rope lost — The kindly welcome — An Englishman's wish — An o]jen-air concert — Esmeralda's flowers — Adieu, but remembered — A mid-day rest . . . 433 CHAPTER XXXVIIL An English fisherman— The haunted mill — The tourist's jmrchase — Noah's good fortune — The Strand Fjord—A woman's curiosity — The heroine of our book — A Norwegian seaman — The mistaken mansion — The Aurdal church — Frydenlund Station — A roadside halt — The appreciated gift — The severe young lady — The kind- hearted peasant — Krocmmermoen — Impulse and reason . . 449 CHAPTER XXXIX. The gipsy signal — Our Australian meat — The fair poetess — Our friend from Eisbod ill — The Rye's iinwell — The Lehnsmoend of Bang — The ferryman and son — We cross to Beina— Tatersprog — A kind family — Storsveen Station — Secluded valley — A tourist lels us — Esmeralda's adventrire — The peasant women's song — Sorum Station — Tents pitched by a lagoon — Noes — No horseboat — Impromptu horseboat — How we got across — A river scene . 460 xvi CONTENTS. CHAPTER XL. PAGE We leave the Beina — The Lille pige — Any port in a storm — The fairies' visit — The Spiiileu — Ytre Aadalen Val — Large Londe- gaard — Heen woodland camp — Evening visitors — The Honefos — Intelligent postmaster — Norderhoug church — Halt near Vik — The gipsies' political philosophy — Noah and the philanthropist Steens Fjord — The Krogldeven— Beautiful gorge — Camp near the King's View 477 CHAPTER XLT. Summer waning — Norwegian scenery — Splendid views — The cross fire — Sorte Dod — Romantic camp — Mandy's a Rye — The tourist's dog — The HoLbenengree's surprise — The Baron at Bcerums Verk — Snake killed near our tent — Our last night in camp — Adieu, camp life ........... 490 CHAPTER XLII. Christiania — Generous offer — Advice we do not take — The paper- viken fishermen — Christophersen's — Norway, farewell — Donkeys' accommodation — AVant of feeling — Our steward — The gipsies' friends — The Spanish courier — The literary American — The gipsies' mal de mer — The donkeys in a smoke room — The lust necklace — England's shore — To our readers .... 500 CHAPTER XLIII. Alluring promises — Compliment to Englishmen — True sketches of gipsy life — The gipsies' origin — Yet a mystery — Esmeralda — Noah and Zachariah — Before the curtain — The end . . .511 Appendix 1 517 „ II 527 III 529 IV 532 „ V 538 LIST OF ILLUSTKATIONS. *:^* The engravings are by Edward Whymper, author of " Scrambles amongst the Alps," and have been taken from sketches made by the author during his wanderings in Norway, or from photographs obtained by him specially for this work. PAGE 1. His late Most Gracious Majesty Carl XV., King of Norway and Sweden ...... {Full jictge, facing Title) 2. Breaking up Camp ; Gipsy pocket, and loaded donkey . . 14 3. The gipsies' Norwegian song — ornamental bordure . .17 and 18 4. The Chevalier 28 5. We are one 44 6. Proesteu Eilert Sundt 56 7. Norwegian fence 78 8. Norwegian bath-room ... . . . . . . .80 9. Jeg maa gaae til bmiden, I must go to the bottom . . . . 81 10. Der gaae er dampen, There goes the steamer .... 82 11. Peasant girls' serenade . . , 112 12. Ornamental fladbrod 225 13. Primitive weighing machine . 244 14. Camp at Leaning Stone, Siriaglns ...... 262 15. Troldtinderne, Magicians' or Witches' Peaks {Full page, facing) 271 16. The English gipsies' camp at Veblungsnoes . {Ditto) 287 17. Veblungsnoes and church .... {Ditto) 299 18. The Romsdalshorn {Ditto) 307 19. "Now look at these chokas! ! !" 35G 20. Grod stick, spoon, and bowl, Leirdalen 367 21. Norwegian birchwood crupper 372 22. Kirken (Church Mountain), from Gravdal 377 b xviii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE 23. The ice clifF, Storbeatind Glacier 381 24. Utladal Stol, Mumply Valley 385 25. Lusehaug Bro, Utladal : restive donkeys 390 26. View of Melkedalstiiid from the Valley of Skogadal, Skogadals Elv 406 27. Melkedals Nedre Vand, with gipsy camp on the lake shore . . 411 28. Norwegian Tourist Club Chalet, Tvindehougen, Lake Tyen . 421 29. The Norwegian violin, Skogstad 431 30. Norwegian maiden's l)elt, Oiloe 439 31. Esmeralda 499 32. The last camp of the English gipsies in Norway, Christiania Fjord 504 33. Ole Halvorsen of Rodsheim, our guide 514 34. Last group. Farewell 515 35. The author's final vignette 516 INTKODUCTION. "Nullus dolor est quern non longinquitas temporis minuat, ac molliat." There is no grief time does not lessen and soften. Since the succeeding pages were written, Norway and Sweden have mourned the death of their King, Carl XV., at Malmoe, on the 18th September, 1872. The dedication of this work is, therefore, with the kind and special permission of his present Majesty, King Oscar IL, inscribed " In Memoriam." Thus the work opens to the reader with a shadow of melancholy ; for, in our experience, few kings have had the love and affection of their subjects in a greater degree. One memorable event marked the close of his late Majesty's reign, as if to illumine the last sands of the hour-glass of his life — the millennial period of the unity of Norway as one kingdom was accomplished on the 19th July, 1872. A thousand years had elapsed since Harald Haar- fager (the Fair Hair) gained the battle of Hafsfjord, and united Norway under one crown.* * During this reign, after the battle of Hafsfjord, the great viking " Rolf Ganger," son of Earl Rognvalcl, having offended King Harald, was banished from Norway, and, in company with many other Northmen, sailed with a fleet of vessels to the Hebrides, and from thence to Nor- mandy, where the Northmen, about the year 896, obtained possession of Rouen, and Rolf Ganger, afterwards embracing Christianity, became Duke of Normandy. — Histoire de la Gonquefe de V Awjleterre par les Norma^is, par Augustin Thierry, vol. i. p. 114. XX INTRODUCTION. At Hafsfjord, by a strange coincidence, King Harald Haarfager, having reigned, it is said, from about 861 to 931, was buried, according to the ancient sagas, near the town of Haugesund, not far from the scene of his memorable victory, the last of a series of conquests which gave to Norway one king. The battle of Hafsfjord also accomplished King Harald's vow, and gave to him the hand of Gyda, the handsome daughter of Eric, King of Hordaland, who, in answer to his proposals, had said, she would never throw herself away, even to take a king for a husband, who had only a few districts to rule over.* The obelisk of granite, erected near Haugesund, on the grave of Harald Haarfager, to commemorate the event, is seventy feet high. Surrounding its base, twenty-one pillars, eight feet high, are inscribed with the names of the twenty-one petty kingdoms, into Avhich ancient Norway was formerly divided. Bronzed reliefs on the pedestal record that Harald Haarfager is buried beneath, and that the monument was erected one thousand years after he had consolidated Norway into one kingdom. At a grand National Jubilee Festival, at Haugesund, on the 19th July, 1872, his present Majesty the King of Norway and Sweden, f then Prince Oscar, with a large assemblage of the people of Norway, inaugurated the monument. * From the Heimskringla, or Chronicle of the Kings of Norway, trans- lated from the Icelandic of " Suorro Sturleson," by Samuel Laing. f The king ascends the throne as King of " Sweden, the Goths and Vandals, and Norway ;" but in all Acts specially relating to Norway, that country is entitled to be named first, and this work being entirely one of Norwegian travel, we have for that reason given Norway precedence in our Dedication. INTRODUCTION. xxi The day was fine, and the associations of a thousand years carried the mind back through the far distance of time to the battle of Hafsfjord, when, to apply the words of " Sigvat the Scald," — Loud was the battle-storm there, When the King's banner flamed in air, The King beneath his banner stands. And the battle he commands. His late Majesty was also a poet and an artist. Two interesting volumes of the late King's poems, entitled " En Samling Dikter " (a collection of poems), and " Smarre Dikter " (short poems) are the scintilla- tions of a bright and imaginative mind — " Till Sverige " (To Sweden), "■ Borgruinen " (the Castle Kuins), " Fjer- ran" (Afar), "Ensamheten" (solitude), " Trosbek- iinnelse" (Confession of Faith), "I drommen" (I Dream), "Hvarbor Friden" (Where dwelleth Peace), "Kalian" (The Fountain), " Ziguenerskan " (The Gipsy Girl), with other poems form the Innehal, or contents of the " Smarre Dikter." The larger volume — " En Samling Dikter "—includes "Heidi Gylfes Dotter" (Heidi Gylfe's Daughter), "En Viking Gasaga " j(A Viking Saga)* "Hafsfrun" (The Mermaid), "Tre Natter" (Three Nights), and several other poems. The full-paged portrait of his late Majesty Carl XV. is an excellent likeness. He was cast in Nature's most * Laing defines a A'iking and a Sea-king thus : — a sea-king, one connected with a royal race — either of the small kings of the country or of the Haarfager family, and who by right received the title of king as soon as he took command of men, although only a ship's crew, without having any land or kingdom. The Viking is a term not connected with the word kongr, or king : the \dkings were merely pirates — alternately peasants and pirates — deriving the name viking from viks, wicks or inlets on the coast, where they harboured their long ships or rowing-galleys. Laing says every sea-king was a viking, but every viking was not a sea-king. xxii INTRODUCTION. perfect mould ; whilst his mind had true greatness and noble-hearted chivalry. It is beautifully engraved by the author of " Scrambles Amongst the Alps;" indeed, this and the engravings illustrating this work, which have all been taken from original sketches of the author, or photographs obtained specially for the work, are by Mr. Edward Whymper,* to whom the author is much indebted for his prompt attention, when a very short space of time could only be allowed for their completion. An additional interest will also be felt by the reader in knowing that the' work is true, even to the names of the gipsies. So must close our Introduction ; and, as we look back to our tented wanderings, they seem as a bright summers day, whose sun, setting on the horizon of our fate, reflects itself, though with imperfect gleams, within this book, whilst the day is gone for ever ! THE AUTHOR. 1th May, 1873. * An interesting article, by Mr. Whymper, witli frontispiece, showing a "Fragment of the Jakobshaven Ice Stream," appeared in the "Alpine Journal" of May, 1870. Another article, the result of recent exploration, entitled " Some Notes on Greenland and the Greenlanders," with a frontis- piece, from Mr. Whymper^s pen, appeared in the " Alpine Journal " of this month. THE GIPSY GIKL. Passing, I saw her as she stood beside A lonely stream between two barren wolds ; Her loose vest hung in rudely-gathered folds On her swart bosom, which in maiden pride Pillowed a string of pearls ; among her hair Twined the light blue bell and the stonecrop gay ; And not far thence the small encampment lay, Curling its wreathed smoke into the air. She seemed a child of some sun-favoiu«d clime ; So still, so habited to warmth and rest ; And in my wayward musings on past time, Wlien my thought fills with treasured memories, That image nearest borders on the blest Creations of pure art that never dies. Dean Alfokd. TENT LIFE WITH ENGLISH GIPSIES IN NORWAY. CHAPTER I. "The best books are records of the writer's ovm experiences of what he himself has seen or kno-mi, or — best of all — has clone. The ■«Titing ^ then becomes naturally concrete, perspicuous, a mii-ror of the fact ; and whether it be a book for the world and for ages, or for nations and generations, there is this common to them all, that they arc genuine records of genuine things, and throw light on the subject." — N.P. Willis. NORWAY — OUR GIPSY TENT — TEXT FITTINGS — COOKING APPxVRATUS — COII- 3IISSARIAT — gipsies' TENT — BAGAGE DE LUXE — WEIGHT OF BAGGAGE — TRANSIT — DONKEYS— OUR PARTY — ESMERALDA. The picturesque and lovely scenes of Norway offered many inducements for onr campaign. Tlie peculiar advantages of tent life would enable us to wander in its wildest Dais. Its beautiful fjelds, fjords, and fosses could be seen at our ease. We might bivouac in tlie silent forest ; we could sleep in its lonely glens, and wander in its deepest recesses, independent of the chance accom- modation of the " gjoestgiver-gaard," or the more doubt- ful comfort of the mountain " soeter." The result of a former visit had not been without its practical utility, and the tent carried the day. In previous travels we had used many kinds of tents, 2 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. including Mr. Wliymper's very useful Alpine Tent. For this campaign we had a new one made, such as gipsies use. All experience inclined us to adopt this form of tent as the most comfortable.* It was made by gipsies, whom we had often befriended in our search after gipsy lore, — and who now no longer regarded us with distrust, as belonging to the kairengroes (house-dwellers). When it was completed, my j^eople declared it was the best they had ever seen. A stout back pole, with strong ]3liable raniers or rods, fitted into it, and a cover made of two pairs of light gray blankets, of strong but fine texture, sewn together, with a broad edging of scarlet booking, gave it an appearance which the gipsies declared to be perfection. ♦ The interior fittings of our tent were not neglected. One of Edgington's waterproofs costing twenty-five shillings, was laid on the ground as a substratum. A handsome carpet, of strong but light material and warm colouring, was cut to the size of the tent as usually pitched, and then neatly bound with scarlet braid by my housekeeper, who made nearly everything used for the expedition. When the carpet was placed on the water- proof rug, it formed an excellent floor to the tent. Our large railway-rug, which had been with us all round the world, was still serviceable. An extra rug for use if necessary, and two air pillows covered with scarlet flannel, completed the bed accommodation. A blue partition-curtain, w^itli broad yellow braid artistically * Although we prefer our gii)sy tent for convenience and comfort, it cannot he compared to Mr. AVhvmper's Alpine tent for security of shelter when pitched on a camp ground of sterile rocks amongst high mountain peaks, exposed to strong gales of wind. COOKING APPARATUS. 3 elaborated in zigzag pattern, to be suspended a volonte from the tent raniers for privacy and seclusion, left nothing more to be desired. We had not yet sunk so low in effeminacy as to use beds, though there are instances of gipsies in England who have descended to that melancholy state. It was necessary that our hatterie de cuisine should be as simple as possible. In the first place we had our kettle prop which had done duty in camp life in the previous year. A kettle prop is a stout bar of iron bent at one end so as to have a projecting portion for hanging the kettle upon to boil water. The other end of the prop is sharpened so as to make holes in the ground to fix the tent raniers or rods into. (The three stakes joined toge- ther at the top, with a large witch's caldron suspended over the fire, as seen in many representations of gipsy life, have now passed away with the gipsies' scarlet cloaks once so fashionable.) We had our large fish kettle for boiling anything ; our tin can for boiling and making tea for four persons ; two larger tin cans for boihng or fetching milk or water, all with lids ; two large zinc bowls ; four smaller soup bowls, fitting one within the other ; a round tin with lid to hold three pounds of butter ; a quart tin can with handle ; two sets of tin pannikins, four each set, fitting one within the other ; * eight pewter plates ; seven knives and six forks ; eiglit spoons ; a tin salt box ; a tin pepper box ; a sardine box * Tlie pannikins hold about a pint and a half, and each weighs 6 oz. They have a. small loop handle on each side, which folds down, and is covered with leather, so that the j)annikin can be carried wlien filled with hot tea. This kind of pannikin, first suggested to us by Mr. Whymper, whose plan it is, we prefer to any other we have seen for weight, size, and convenience. B 2 4 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. opener ; a frying pan, with handle to roniovc ; a tin Ijox containing the exact measure of tea for four persons. This was very useful, not only for economy, but In wet weather, — the box, being filled in the tent, could be carried in the hand, — in readiness for the boiling water. A Russian lamp ; a small axe ; two tin boxes of wax hicifer matches, and eight small cloths for cleaning, com- pleted our service de menage. All the articles enumerated could be conveniently put into the fish-kettle, except the two large cans, the two large bowls, the pewter plates^ the frying-pan, and one or two other articles. These were all placed at one end of a bag called the kettle-bag, tied in the middle ; our bags of tea and sugar, &c., for present use, being placed at the other end, ready to be slung over the donkey for transit.* Our commissariat was selected with a care commensu- rate to the requirements of the expedition and of the four- hungry voyageurs to be fed. Our provisions were procured at Hudson Brothers^ Ludgate Hill, London (with whom we had before had dealings), and were all we could desire for quality. Our purchase included 281bs. of Australian meat (costing 1\(L per lb.) — which for the first time, we ventured, with some hesitation, to take — two hams, some bacon, a dozen boxes of sardines, 2 cheeses, a number of jars of Liebig's * "We haA'e recently pirrcliased a new and ingeniously contrived " cool^ing canteen," designed by Lieutenant Lecky, H.M.S. Ami. This canteen may be insjiected, and is for sale at 79, Mark Lane, City. It -R-eiglis 22 lbs., and its cost is two guineas. "We liOAvever tliink it more adapted for a military encampment than for an expedition like onr owrn. One large Jigbt fisli-kettle, frying pan, and tin boiling kettle, were amply sufficient for all requirements ; and after the wear and tear of our wanderings ia Norway, tlicy are still serviceable and fit for another expedition. GIPSIES' TENT. 5 essence of meat, some tins of j^otted meats, 2 tins of biscuits, — some of wliicli were college biscuits, — rice, oat-meal, pea flom*, beans, &c. ; wliicli, together with 121bs. of tea from Messrs. Phillips, King William Street, in small bags of 31bs. each, were placed in a large stout " pocket " as far as space would allow, and then packed in a wooden case, and forwarded to the care of Messrs. Wilson & Co., Hull, ready for the steamer. The weight of the provisions when sent, was 1501bs. These articles, with 301bs. of sugar in six small bags of 51bs. each, which we had before forwarded to Hull, completed our stock of provisions for the expedition. The gipsies brought their own tent rods ; we found blankets for the tent cover. The gipsies' tent cover is formed of two blankets, fastened with pin thorns over their tent frame of raniers or rods. The}^ had for use one of Edgington's waterproofs and two double blankets. We also took a railway rug ornamented with foxes' heads, which we often used with the aid of our Alpine stocks, as a balk to keep off the wind, and to close in the sj)ace between our tents when we required more room or shelter. We had, besides, a very large but exceedingly light waterproof sheeting, purchased from Edmiston, made to loop over our tents, so as to enlarge them considerably and protect us from heavy rain. The blanket covers of our tents were not waterproof; and this w^aterproof sheeting, which only w^eighed 4 J lbs., was invaluable. When we were resting during the day, it effectually protected our provisions, baggage, and our- selves from the heavy showers of rain which sometimes occurred durino- our wanderino-s. o o Our additional baggage consisted of one salmon rod. 6 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. three trout rods, four Alj^ine stocks, two long ropes for tethering the animals, a fishing basket, a tin box with padlock, a musical box, a moderate allow^ance of clothes, a small tin of blacking with brushes, hair brushes and combs, soap, towels, pocket mirrors, writing-case, maps, stout straps, books (guide books and others), fishing tackle, &c,, two courier bags with locks, and a plaid haversack, which contained a small case of medicaments for use when we were beyond all chance of medical advice — for, although fresh air is peculiarly health-giving, there were times and seasons when we had to officiate as the " cushty drabengro " (good doctor) of the party. We had also in this inlaid bag a silver-mounted glass flask of imposing appearance, which was kept filled with Braendeviin, to be poured out into a thick-set, solid- looking drinking glass, that had been purchased, once upon a time, at Epernay, in France ; it was fitted to stand the hard usage of this world, even to receiving libations of braendeviin instead of champagne. The glass is still unbroken, and ready to do duty in another campaign ; and when we look at it, our brain becomes puzzled as to the number of bold Norwegians whose lips it has touched as they quaffed its contents to gamle Norge. The weight of baggage is given in the following divisions : — The kettle and articles packed into it weighed lOJlbs. ; ■ bowls and pewter plates, packed separately, Gf lbs. ; the frying pan, 3-|- lbs. ; our boiling can for making tea for our party, four in number, 1^ lbs. ; our large boilhig can, for a larger number than four persons, weighed If lbs. ; the large iron kettle-prop, 6 lbs. G ozs., making the total WEIGHT OF BAGGAGE. 7 weight of cooking apparatus and service de menage^ 30 lbs. 2 ozs. The tent rods and pole weighed 1A\ lbs. ; the tent blanket, cover, and partition-curtain, 17-| lbs. ; large waterproof siphonia cover, 4^ lbs. ; small spade to dig- trenches round tent in wet weather, 1 lb. 15 ozs. ; total weight, 38 lbs. 7ozs. One of Edgington's waterproof rugs, the tent carpet, two rugs, and two air-pillows, weighed, together, 20 lbs. Our large tent and fittings, with cooking apparatus and service de menage., therefore weighed 88 lbs. 9 ozs. ; and with books, fishing-rods, clothes, the provisions, and other baggage, made a total of about 360 lbs. weight, which allowed 120 lbs. for each donkey to carry. The method of transit for baggage of all kinds, that impediment to rapid movement, required careful conside- ration. We had 360 lbs. weight of baggage to carry across the sea, to take with us through the valleys of Norway, to convey over mountains, and rugged paths, across rivers and shaky wooden bridges. The kind of animal suited to our expedition had also to be considered ; ponies and mules had their claims. Excellent ponies might be purchased in Norway upon our arrival, but then we had the risk of delay. If we took mules they were oftentimes vicious and troublesome. At last we commissioned a gipsy to purchase three strong donkeys, to be specially selected for the purpose. It is said in one of Dickens's works, that no one ever saw a dead donkey or a dead postboy — and this inspired additional hope that the animals would survive the journey. AVe had no reason to regret our choice. Donkeys will endure want of food better than even mules or horses ; 8 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. tliey are patient, quiet, and tractable ; they soon take to tlie camp, and seldom stray far. The weight would be about 120 lbs. each, decreasing as they progressed on their journey. A strong donkey has been known to carry for a short distance, 4 cwt., but this is exceptional ; 200 lbs. for a journey on good roads they can manage without difficulty ; for rough mountain roads and paths, this load ought to be reduced to less than 100 lbs. Donkeys were much valued in early times ; and in New South Wales they were recently more expensive than horses. Fortunately our gipsy was able to procure them at a moderate rate ; and in a short time I was the possessor — to use gipsy language — of three " cushty merles" (good donkeys). They were to travel with the gipsies' camp until we were ready to start, and so become used to camp-life. Very good ones they were : * Content with tlie thistle they tramped o'er the road, And never repined at the 'weiglit of the load. It was necessary for the success of the expedition, that the party should be composed of not less than four ; but one who had before accompanied our wanderings, was unable to come. Our preparations were partly made, and his loss as a fellow compagnon de voyage was irreparable. Skilful in designing and making a tent, full * " The ass is an excellent and sober little beast, far too much despised by ns. He is not only the most enduring, but one of the quickest walkers among cattle, being usually promoted to the leadership of a caravan. He is nearly equal to the camel in enduring thirst, and thrives on the poorest pasture, snflers from few diseases, and is unscathed by African distemper. The long desert roads and pilgrim tracts of North Africa are largely travelled over by means of asses." — The Art of Travel, by Francis Galton, F.R.G.S., p. 195." OUE PARTY. 9 of resource in camp life, never without an expedient to overcome a difficulty, a sketclier from nature, cheerful under all exposure, temperate in all his pleasures, ever ready with his song and guitar ; at eveningtide, l^y the flickering embers of the camp fire, by the silent lake, or in the mountain ciom^ or lonely glen — his loss was indeed to be regretted. His lithe figure, and luxuriant raven-black hair, shading in heavy tresses his ample forehead, jet-black eyes, and thoughtful countenance bronzed by exposure, strongly resembled the true gipsy type. By other gipsies whom we had chanced to meet, he had been thought of better gipsy blood than our own gipsy people. Our right hand seemed gone. As we lounged into the gipsies' camp, there was no sun to illumine our way to the north. The party must be made up to four ; Ijut no other friend would venture on the exposure of a camp Jife in a foreign country. The romantic scenery, the novelty and charm of a nomadic life in nature's wildest scenes, completely failed to allure them from their com- fortable homes. So the party was to be made up to four. The Rye was not to go without a sufficient escort to take care of him. Tall Noah would pitch the tents and pack tlie animals. Esmeralda, as the forlorn hope, w^ould do all the cooking, and undertake the arrangements of the tent, which our friend had beforetime done with our joint assistance. Zacharia, the "boshomengro " (violin-player), would again obtain water, and make the fire. They would each have one animal under their charge. With this arrangement we were obliged to content ourselves. Esmeralda, who was nearly sixteen years old, was tall. 10 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. spare, and active, and wonderfully strong for lier age. She had dark hair, and eyes full of fathomless fire. Zacharia had certain nervous misgivings about being chopped up by a bear in his tent some night ; tigers and lions were also inquired after; but, all being settled, there was no flinching, and our gipsies were ready on the day named. CHAPTER II. "He is an excellent oriental scholar, and lie tells mc that amongst the gipsies are the remains of a language (peculiar to themselves) in which are traces of Sanscrit. Sir David Baird, too, was remarkably- struck with the resemblance of some of the Sepoys to the English gipsies. They are evidently not the dregs of any people. The counte- nances of many of the females are beautiful, as those of the males are manly." — The Peacock at Rowshj. •GIPSY EQUIPMENT — NORWEGIAN GIPSIES — PRESTEN EILERT SUNDT — THE HULL STEAMER — THE TOURIST'S FRIEND — OUR GIPSY SONG. The gipsies' equipment and wardrobe was not exten- sive ; some additions given by tlie Rye made them up assez hien pour le voyage. One or two waistcoats, and a handkerchief or two, formed, we believe, the whole of Noah and Zacharia's change. But their boots! those were unexceptionable. They must be new — they must be thick — they must be nailed — double and treble nailed. One shoemaker failed in solidity and soundness of sub- stratum ; but at last, to the Rye's comfort and inexpres- sible relief, a more skilled follower of St. Crispin pro- duced some clief d'oeuvres of jjonderous construction, which the gipsies admitted to be masterpieces. The man who drove the nails had well-earned his wao:es : the soles, indeed, at length resembled one of those old- fashioned oak doors, that one sometimes sees in ancient castles, or manorial residences. We duly discharged their cost, consoling ourselves with the reflection that we had 12 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. not to walk ill tliem tlirougli Norway. Esmerakla liad one dress to change. What it wanted in skirt, was made up by tlie ornamentation of plaid braid, and silver buttons, quite in accordance with the fashion of some Norwegian districts. She had no bandboxes, chignon-boxes, glove- boxes, parasols, umbrellas, caps, pomades, perfumes, and a thousand other things often required. A long Alpine cloak, and a few articles of change, formed a very slight addition to our baggage. There are Norwegian gipsies. Even Norway has been reached by wandering hordes of this singular people.* We were desirous of comparing the language of English gipsies with that of the Norwegian Zigeuner ; we M^ere anxious to see some of the roving Tater-pak of this Northern land. In our researches into the his- tory, language, origin, and probable fate of this wild, wandering people, who still cling with remarkable ten- acity to their ancient modes of life and language, we had met with the interesting works of Presten Eilert Sundt — a gentleman who has given much time and indefatigable * Monsieur Bataillard, in his interesting work " Nouvelles Reclierclies sur I'AppariLion et la Dispersion des Boliemiens en Europe," says tliat the earliest mention of Taters in Norway is found in a law of 1589. His opinion is that they did not enter Norway by way of Denmark and South Sweden, but through North Sweden and the Duchy of Finland, that is to say by the north of Russia. This opinion appears to have been supported by Presten Eilert Sundt. M. Bataillard, therefore, considers that the Norwegian gipsies were not part of the numerous hordes who entered the south of Europe subsequently to the year 1417. M. Bataillard is the author of a work entitled " De 1' Apparition et de la dispersion des Bohemiens en Europe," published in 1844, and now out of print. The same author has recently published another interesting and valuable contribution, entitled " Les Derniers travaux relatifs aux Bohemiens dans I'Europe Orientale," published 1872. In this work Monsieur Bataillard gives a most able review of the works of various authors who have written upon the gipsy people wandering in Eastern Europe. PBEBTEN EILERT SUNDT. 13 energy to a complete investigation of the present state of tlie Norwegian gipsies, and lias formed a vocabu- lary of the Romany language as spoken by them in Norway. Presten Sundt's notes will remain a valuable record of the footsteps of this people in the world. His first work, " Beretning oni Fante-eller Landstrygerfolket i Norge," was published at Christiania in 1852 ; it was succeeded by " Andeii aars Beretning om Fantefolket," published at Christiania in 1862. To him the Nor- wegian Government are indebted for the only informa- tion which we believe has yet been given relative to the Norwegian gipsies. The extracts from Presten Sundt's works, expressly made for us, will be found in the Appendix to this work. Our preparations had wonderfully progressed : besides bags of various kinds we had three pochets^ as the gipsies call them, — one for each animal. The pocket is a large broad, flat sack, sewed up at both ends, with a slit on one side, which buttons. The blankets and rugs, &c., are folded and packed flat into it through the slit or opening. Any hard substances are placed at each end of the pocket, so that the donkey's back may not be injured. The pocket is placed flat over the tent covers, and then girthed tightly round the animal. The bags, tent-rods, and other things are fastened by cords passing between the girth and the pocket. A steamer was to sail from Hull in June, and we ultimately arranged to take a return ticket from Hull to Norway and back, ourself first-class, and the gipsies second-class : our return tickets cost us £25, including 14 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. tlie carriage of three animals, either donkeys or horses, Avhichever we might wish to take, going or returning. At one time we thought of going by the special steamer to Throndhjem, intended for the convenience of sports- men, but as the voyage was longer, and the fare BREAKING VP CAMP : GIPSY POCKET AND LOADED DOxkEY. considerably higher, we gave up the idea. Messrs. Wilson were most prompt in giving us every informa- tion, and when we had decided to go, they secured us an excellent berth, and received our heavy baggage when forwarded. We soon received a small publication, by John Bradley, entitled, "Norway, its Fjords, Fjelds, and Fosses, and How to See Them for Fifteen Guineas:" with a tempting view of Norwegian scenery on the cover. Unfortunately we could not travel at so cheap a THE TOURIST'S FRIEND. 15 rate with our party ; but we recommend the publication to intending tourists. We now wrote to ]Mr. Bennett, 17, Store Strandgade^ Christiania, who is a perfect oracle upon all matters pertaining to Norway, and gives ready aid to northern tourists, and he at once sent the maps w^e required. We afterwards received his newly revised Guide Book, which is indispensable to all Norwegian travellers. A gipsy song was composed by us for our campaign, — a sort of souvenir, to be given here and there, — a memorial of our visit ; we had it translated into Nor- wegian. It was a guitar song, with an engraved border, illustrative of gipsy life. The music was arranged by our friend, of whose regretted absence, we have already spoken. He had taken it from an air, which he once heard played, by an Italian boy, in the streets of London. It had since dwelt on his memory. The following is the music of the air, and the song follows, with a Nor- wegian translation, which is said, to be exceedingly good. 16 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. lilUSIC OF GIPSIES' NORWEGIAN SONG. At I?. CniAR s^^^E ^^JE^^ ^— ^-T^-Tj^ A ^i^^ m^nz- r ' r ' f ^ : fj.^.^ ^ g^^^ ^^^^ |-n_i-n i-T^rX3. ^^^^^i -^H^--^: ^ I 0—0^ 5= ^^SE3E2=t=»= m jij~tj~i l^^3^^3a^ ^^= !^^ r ^^ 1S=S:* jcibt ■*• P^g^ pp ^^f ii^^^i •fe t^ f ^ fes ^^^fe;^^ ^^ ^^ ^=±' ^—^ 3^l3i!H 4_!L_S-i_J~~j g # ZZj j m^Myk ';'. '-' "-'',■?'■■'■'' '\ ?%•,■" :i ^■#Jf|'fr' :W^: ZIGEUNERNES SANG TIL NORGE. Hil dig du kjcere gamle Land ! Hvor Frilled og Munterlied Ijoe, Vi Zigeunere komme til din Strand Forat vandre med dig i Ro. Vi vandre paa Mark, vi vandre i Fjord I det stolte gamle Norge. Der leve gjocve Folk i Nord, Thi her ere Frihedens Borge. I mit Telt ved din 1 ilanke Soe Belyst af Maanen sodt jeg drommer. Din Erindring lios mig AnI aldrig doe Dine lioie Granskove jeg ikke glemmer. Giv OS Eders Yelkomst til Norgesland, Ha- or Alter saa yndigt at skue. I Eders Fsedres Bryst for den fremmede Man J ' ^ Opflammede Venskabets Lue. Den liellige Olaf velsigned dig. De djserve Haralders Jord, Om dig stedse siges sandelig : Soni Guld kan man tage dit Ord. Farvel ! vi Afsked maa tage, Og besoge liver Skov og livert Fjeld Yor Yelsignelse Eder altid ledsage Og gjentone A'ort sidste Farvel. r-^. i I'll??' THE GIPSIES' NORWEGIAN SONG. Welcome, you dear old land, Land of the gay and free ; "We are a gipsy band, And Avander awhile ■with thee. In fiord and fell we wander, Nor tire, old Norge, of thee, A people so brave, and no wonder — For they live in the land of the free. I dream in my tent by your Indsoe, "When the moonlight hour is mine. And my heart can never forget you, And yom- beautiful forests of pine. Give us your welcome to Norway, "Where all is lovely and fail- ; Yom- fathers of old never tardy Their friendship with strangers to share. Blessed by St. Olaf the holy. Land of Harold the bold. Of you it is ever said truly Your word is as good as your gold. And now adieu ; we must leave you, To wander each forest and fell ; Our blessing for ever attend you, And echo our parting farewell. CHAPTEE III. " The woods are gi-een, the hedges white With leaves, and blossoms fair ; There's music in the forest now, And I too must be there." Jeffreys. A friend's misgiving — DARK FOREBODINGS — A SLEEPLESS NIGHT— THE RAILWAY STATION — THE ALBION — A PHILOSOPHER — THE STREET BOY — DISTINGUISHED TRAVELLER?. We liad nearly completed our preparations, and were leaving town, wlien we dined one evening witli a friend wdiom we had not seen for some time. He seemed interested in our approacliing excursion, but liis astonisli- ment was great, wlien our plan was divulged. "What! going to Norway with gipsies?" said he in amazement, as he poised in his hand, a glass of champagne. " Why I don't believe my friend Tom Taylor, who has taken a great interest in the gipsy language, ever went so far as to camp with them. You'll be robbed, and murdered — not the slightest doubt. Travel with gipsies ! " ■exclaimed our friend, and he seemed to shudder at the thought. We were quite unable to say how much self-sacrifice Mr. Tom Taylor may have made. We had read his interesting collection of Breton Ballads. He writes well on a great variety of subjects, and is an excellent art c 2 20 TENT LIFE IN NOEWAY. critic ; but we could not give any opinion upon liis camp experience. My friend shook his liead, " Write to mo when you get there, — promise to write me a letter," said he earnestly. " Yes, you will be certainly robbed, and murdered," and he silently emptied his glass. There was something touching in his manner, as he gulped down the effervescent draught, with a look which showed plainly that he had no hope for our safe return. In the drawing-room the subject seemed one of interest.. We gave our friend a promise to write. As Ave left the house, his adieux were those of separation, for the last time. It had been a wild rainy night. What with packing,, and wiiting letters, we never went to bed. 3Ies gens de la maison remained up also. After a very earl}" breakfast we were en route. As we drove up to the railway station of a large populous town, we caught sight of our gipsies. They were waiting for us with the three donkeys in the shelter of some open building of the station. The gipsies looked wet, draggled, and miry, but full of spirits. As we stepped from the carriage, a porter took charge of our twelve packages. AYe had received previously full and explicit informa- tion from the passenger department as to the trains and expense of transit, and had engaged a horse box to HulL One of the officials, seemed rather astonished, when he found three donkeys, were to be conveyed in the horse- box, he scarcely seemed able to connect a horse-box, with the proposed freight. A stray policeman seemed puzzled at the retinue. The three gipsies, saluting us with ShaiDsJion laugh^ Sir 9 (How do you do. Sir?) marched up and down the THE a AIL WAY STATION. 21 platform, apparently mucli pleased at our arrival. Tlie stray policeman wandered about, as if lie was up, and down, and nohow, as to what it all meant, or whether the gipsies, belonged to us, or themselves. He was lingering near, when we produced a 10/. Bank of England note at the booking-office, in pa3aiient for our tickets. A new light then beamed on his mind, and we did not sec him again. The horse-box was paid for. The porter got labels for all our packages, and timidly ventured to inquire the use of the tent-rods, which he had curiously regarded for some time. We secured a second-class, and a first-class compartment in the same carriage, all was arranged, the signal was given, and we were off. We had only one change — at Leeds — and no stoppage. The horse-box went right through. A pleasant compagnon cle voyage^ accompanied us most of the journey ; lie had lately come from the blue skies of Italy. The gipsies were joined by an inquisitive fellow- ti'aveller, in a white hat. Some people trouble them- selves about everybody else's business but their own. He cross-examined them, as to who we were, and where we came from. " Gloucestershire," said Noah — " we all came from Gloucestershire this morning." " You must have started very early," said the inquisitive traveller. " Oh, yes," said Noah with emphasis — " very early." It was a damp, wet morning, as we arrived on Friday, the 17tli June, 1871, at the Hull station, and found ourselves on the platform. We left the gipsies, to look after the donkeys, which were put in some stables at the station ; and taking all our things in a cab to the Albion steamer, we put them on board. IMessrs. Wilson were called upon. They are prompt men of business ; to 22 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. their word iu all things. Ample arrangements would be made to shelter the donkeys during the voyage, and we jxiid our fare. At the station on our return we found a civil porter waiting for us, and having paid the stout stableman 1.?. for each donkey, the gipsies took them ou board about one or two o'clock in the day. Much curiosity was created when the gipsies came on deck. The steward of the vessel said, they seemed to have lately come from a warm country. The Albion steamer had small, but comfortable second- class accommodation. No meal could be had until seven o'clock ; but the second steward managed to get the gipsies some sandwiches and ale. They had been fed en route in the morning, and were quite satisfied, with the refreshments so provided. During the previous wet night, they had camped some distance from the starting point, and had ridden the donkeys through the rain to the railway station. Noah and Zacharia had no great-coats, but Esmeralda was dressed in her long Alpine cloak, and treble necklace of blue, and white beads. Her straw hat was surmounted by a small plume of feathers, dyed blue, by one of her brothers. She did not wear earrings, and had no other ornament. We had left the steamer to obtain some methylated spirit for our Russian lamp, and to call at Messrs. Wilson and Co.'s, when we remembered, that we had forgotten our Avatch-keys. A watchmaker's shop was soon found. The watchmaker was a merry-looking man. The watch had always been provided with one key to wind it up, and another to regulate the hands. We had always been assured, that two different keys, were re- A PHILOSOPHER. 23 quired. " Ha ! lia ! ! lia ! ! ! " lauglied tlie watclimaker, wlio was apparently a German, " I will give you one key which will do the same thing — ha ! ha ! ! ha ! ! ! " It was a beautifully formed key, nor had we ever met with one like it before. The watchmaker appeared to us as a second Jean Batiste ScJiwiJcjue of Strasbourg.* " Ha ! ha ! ! ha ! ! ! " lauglied the merry little man, " all is mystery. We eat and drink, but we comprehend nothing. Ah ! we often end in believing nothing.^' We remarked that no one who contemplated with attention the works of Nature could overlook the design of a great Creator. The watchmaker went to an inner door. A pretty girl pro- bably his daughter, changed a shilling for him. " Ah ! " continued he, " you see by travel ; you take in through the eyes ; they are the great vehicles of human life. I laugh at them, ha ! ha ! ! ha ! ! ! " and he bowed as I left the shop. We were now nearly ready for the voyage; as we passed from the gates of the railway station an interest- ing-looking boy, pleaded hard to black our boots. It is an honest way of making a livelihood. In this instance we stepped aside — one boot was just finished, when he suddenly bolted. Although he did not wait for his money, he did not forget the paraphernalia of his business. Another boy explained, that he was not al- lowed to black boots so near the station, and a police- man in the distance had caused his hasty disappearance. The boy again met us soon after, and completed his work ; we were glad to have the chance of paying him. * Jean Batiste Sclnvilgiic was Lorn at Strasbourg, 18tli Dec, 1776, and completed the celebrated clock in the Strasbourg Catliedral. 24 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. When we went on board tlie steamer, all Avas confu- sion. On the wharf, we had Is. wharfage, to pay for each anhnal. The total expenses of our party to join the steamer amounted to 10/. 95. G^/. inckuling Gs. lid. for hay, supplied to the donkeys for the voyage. The evening w^as damp and gloomy. An old weather- beaten Norwegian pilot w^andered about the deck. Men in oilskin coats, smelling strongly of tar and tobacco- quid, hustle and bustle, against everything. Very com- fortable accommodation, had been erected specially for the animals near the engines, in the waist of the steamer. Esmeralda was feeding them with hay. When the gipsies were afterwards looking over the side of the vessel, they formed an interesting group. Then came the active steward, of the second cabin, who promised us to take care of them. The second steward was a small, but firmly-knit, active young fellow, who said he had been wrecked twice, in the old coat he was then wearing, and for which, therefore, he had a strong- affection ; after saying he should go next winter to Cali- fornia, he left us to look after his many arrangements. We were informed that Sir Charles Mordaunt and also Lord Muncaster,* who had so narrowly escaped the * It may be that the noble descendant of the Pennmgtons owed his almost miraciilous escape, to his possession of the curionsly-wronght enamelled glass cup, given by King Henry the Vlth after the battle of Hexham, 1463, to his ancestor, Sir John de Pennington, knt., with a prayer that the family should ever prosper, and never want a male heir, as long as the cup remained unbroken. The cup is called the " Luck of Muncaster," and Muncaster Castle, and its long broad windiug terrace, commanding magnificent \aews over the valley of Eskdale, is one of those enchanted spots which we meet with in the picturesque county of Climberland. It is singular that another family in Cumberland also possess a similar talisman, to which is attached a rare value, " The Luck of Edenhall," belonging to THE LUCK OF MUNC ASTER. 25 Athenian brigands, liad left Hull in the special steamer for TJirondhjem on the previous evening. tlie ancient family of Musgrave. It is an old enamelled drinking glass, said to have been seized in olden time by a Bntler of Eden Hall from some fairies lie surprised dancing near St. Cutlibert's well in the Park. The glass had been left by the fairies near the brink of the well, and the fairies, failing to recover it, vanished with the words — " If that glass either break or fall, Farewell the Lnck of Edenhall." An interesting account is given of the " Luck of Edenhall " in Roby'g interesting " Tales and Traditions of Lancashire." CHAPTER IV. " Zarca. It is well. You sliall not long count days in weariness : Ere the full moon has waned again to new, "We shall reach Almeria ; Berber ships Will take us for their freight, and we shall go "With plenteous spoil, not stolen, bravely won By service done on Spaniards. Do you shrink ? Are you aught less than a Zincala ?" George Eliot's S'panish Gipsy. England's farewell — summer tourists — the chevalier — seafaring — A GIPSY reception — CHANGE OF PLANS— NORWEGIAN PILOT — THE BIRMINGHAM BAGMAN — INDUCEMENT TO AUTHORSHIP — STRANGE WILLS- — A sailor's PHILOSOPHY — ICELANDIC LANGUAGE — PROGNOSTICATIONS. The steamer's saloon was elegantly fitted up. Bouquets of flowers shed tlieir fragrance on each table ; books, pens, and ink had been supplied for the use of the voyagers. One passenger soon entered, carrying a long sword ; another — a French gentleman — followed, and ex- pressed a wish to be in the same cabin with his wife. We have pleasure in saying that we found the captain very agreeable, and courteous. The Alhim steamer left the Hull docks at eight o'clock the same evening, being towed out In' a steam-tug. The under-steward, went to meet some passengers, whose arrival was expected b}" a late train, but returned without having found them. The gipsies and ourself, as we stood looking over the bulwarks of the steamer, took our last view of the fading shore, and tlie steamer was soon fairly SUMMER TOUBIST>'<. 27 on lier voyage. Our gipsies were almost famished ; but we managed to get tliem some tea, at nine o'clock, and they went off to bed. Our cabin was one of the best in the steamer. AVe awoke as daylight dawned through the open bull's-eye window of our upper berth. Not feeling decidedly well, or ill, we got up, to see how we were ; then we had some conversation, with our fellow-passenger in the berth below. (AVe were the only two occupants of the cabin.) This traveller, who was invisible behind the curtain of his berth, informed us that he was going on business to Gottenberg; while we told him, that we were going to make a tour, in the wilds of Norway. When we sought our gipsies, we found that they were not up. In company with several of our fellow-passengers, Ave afterwards sat down to a capital breakfast provided for us in the saloon. The steamer had its usual comple- ment of travellers to Norway in summer — some for fish- ing, some for health, and some for business. One pale, gentlemanly passenger, whose acrpiaintance we made, had met with an accident to his leg. Another agreeable tourist, whom we will call Mr. C, was accom- panied by his wife — a tall young lady, with a Tyrolese hat and feather. A young invalid officer, just returned from Italy, had had the Roman fever, and was given up ; he had, however, recovered sufficiently to travel, and intended going to Lyngdal to join some friends. There were also two or three Norwegian gentlemen (one of tliem, a Chevalier de I'Ordre de Wasa), a Scotch traveller with a large sandy beard, and a tall, portly gentleman, going to visit some friends near Christiania. Finding we had three donkeys on board, the Chevalier 28 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. and another passenger accomj^anied lis to see them. The first-named gentleman, was especially interested in our proposed excursion. How shall Ave describe him ? He was rather under middle height, thick-set, and strongly built ; and occasionally his countenance ex- pressed, much animation, and good-humoured energy. The information he possessed was extensive ; he spoke English perfectly ; had travelled much, and knew Scan- dinavia, and its people well. The donkeys were declared very fine ones, especially the large light-coloured animal, with a dark cross on its shoulders, long, finely-formed legs, and beautiful head. This donkey was about six years old, and we called it the Puru Rawnee.* The next donkey, was a dark animal, five years old, strong, but not so finely formed; although not so spirited, * Puru Rawnee — old lady. SEAFARING. 29 it eDclured all the fatigue of long travel, even better tlian its two companions ; we called it the Puro Rye.* The third was about four 5^ears old, with a beautiful head, very lively, and was called the Tarno Rye.f They seemed to relish the hay, and made themselves quite at home. The donkeys became objects of special interest, and the Puru Pawnee was mucli admired. Most of the pas- sengers had something to recount as to their impressions. A Norwegian gentleman said that they had no donkeys in Norway, which we afterwards found to be quite correct. Another good-humouredly said, that sixpence each ought to be charged, and the entrance closed. Many were the suggestions, and speculations, concerning them by the passengers, as they quietly puffed their cigars. The gentleman of the Roman fever, who seemed to be improving each hour, said in a significant manner, during a pause in the conversation, "You'll write a book ; your experience will be interesting — you ought to write a book.''' We now went to find our gipsies, or what was left of them. Esmeralda was lying on the deck, with her head on a closed hatchway. She raised her head in a most doleful manner, and said, " Very bad, sir." Noah was lying next his sister, and sat up for a moment looking very wild. Zacharia was extended full length, perfectly speech- less. Evidently, they wished themselves on shore again. Great curiosity was excited among the passengers to see the gipsies. We explained, that they were in a very prostrate condition — in fact, quite unable to hold nmch * Puro Eye — old gentleman. In Turkish Eomany, pluiro -old. t Tarno Eye — young gentleman. 30 TENT LIFE IN NOB WAY. intercourse, with the outer world ; but at length we yielded, and introduced a party to them. The interview was short, and as our gipsies were still lying on the deck, and quite unahle to do the honours of the reception, we soon left them in peace. The passengers were apparently much pleased with the introduction. They were real gipsies — gipsies who had all their life roamed England with their tents — none of 3'our half-and- half caravan people — an effeminate race, who sleep in closed boxes, gaudily painted outside, with a stove, and a large fire wdtliin. Ours were nomads, wdio slept on the ground, and wandered wath their tents, during every season of the year. The steward took care we did not starve. Our dinner was quite a success. The table groaned beneath the weight of soup, salmon, roast beef, veal, ducks and green peas, young potatoes, puddings, Stilton and Cheshire cheese, &c., with excellent claret from a Norwegian house at Christiania. The gipsies did not give much sign of revival. During the afternoon, we visited them now, and then, consoled them, and gave the steward orders, to let them have whatever they wanted. AVe had a long conversation, with the Chevalier, as to our route, through Norway. It had been our intention to make Christiansand our starting-point, go through the wilds of the Thelemarken, and visit again the Gousta IMountain, and the Rjukan Fos. The Chevalier sug- gested Christiania, as the best starting-point, taking- railway to Eidsvold, wdiere, he said, Presten Eilert Sundt resided. He then said, we could travel by road, or steamer, to Lillehammer, and from thence through the Gud- NORWEGIAN PILOT. 31 brand sdalen. He afterwards sketched out a very long and interesting route, having its termination at Christiansand, and we determined to follow as fiir as possible his suggestions. There were many inquiries by the passengers as to how the gipsies fared, and we went to see them again just before tea-time. Zacharia was in bed, and asleep ; Noah was just getting into bed; and Esmeralda was in the second-class women's cabin, with some tea, and bread-and-butter before her, looking exceedingly poorly. The close proximity to a stout woman who was dread- fully sea-sick, was not enlivening. The Norwegian pilot, who was a good-tempered old man, had been much interested with the nails in the gipsies' boots ; when they were lying on the deck, he would sometimes stoop down to make a close inspection, as if he were counting them. He said nothing, but probably thought more. The occupant of our cabin, when Ave saw him, was a young man with an eye to business ; in fact, some ot the passengers averred afterwards, that he could calculate in a few moments, the exact amount, the steamer cost, to a fourpenny nail. He seemed, however, to be very Vv'-ell intentioned, in his inquisitive analysis of everybody, and everything. He was said by some one to be a Birming- ham bagman, whilst others said he was a wandering Jew ; but whether Jew or Gentile, he took a decided interest in the gipsies, and the donkeys, for which we suppose there was some excuse. He had dark hair, eyebrows, and beard, pale complexion, and generally walked with his hands in his pockets, and his shoulders screwed up to the back of his neck. His head, was inclined downwards, wjiilst he 32 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. looked at you, with large rolling eyes, from under his bushy eyebrows, with a quick upward glance of inquiry. Now and then, he would walk off to see the donkeys, and report on his return, to the other passengers, his views as to their state of comfort, and happiness. Somehow his opinion, did not appear to have much weight with the other passengers — whether it was from want of intelligence on their part, or obscurity of per- ception, we could not say. At tea-time he sat opposite to us ; he dashed wildly into salad, and then said in a loud voice across the table, " I have seen your donkeys ; I should like to go with you." " You seem to like them,'* we replied, "No!" exclaimed he, very wildly; "it is 3^our gipsies' dark eyes." " He is insane," said the Chevalier, in an under tone, to which we readily assented. The bagman certainly did look wild ; and it immediately occurred to us that he slept under our berth, in the same cabin — not a lively contemplation, but we were determined, not to meet trouble halfway. AVe had entered up some of our notes, and had strolled on deck to enjoy the freshness of the sea-breeze, when we found ourselves one of a small party of passengers, whiling away the time, in pleasant conversation, in which our captain joined. " You must write a book," said the officer who had had the Roman fever. " And dedicate it to you?" we rejoined. " I will take one copy," said one passenger. " I will take three copies," said our captain. "Ah!" said another, "it should be on the saloon table." >STliANGJ:: WILLf<. 33 "And tlien," said another, "it Vv^ill be interesting to know tlie fate of the three donkeys." AVe admitted that, after so much encouragement, we must write a book, and dedicate it to the officer, who had had the Roman fever. Several anecdotes were rehrted. One passenger said, " There was a house near Hyde Park, which formerly belonged to an old gentleman, who left his property to trustees on certain trusts, provided they buried him on the top of his house."* Several instances were told of persons desiring in their wills to be buried in their garden ; and one or two cases were mentioned where tlie wish had been disregarded. The weather became rainy, and our compagnons de voyage^ sought shelter elsewhere. We, however, still * Although the account, singular as it is, receives very general credence, and the place of sepulture, on the roof of the mansion near Hyde Park, is even pointed out, we must say, that a literary friend, who devoted some time to the inquiry, discredits the truth. In a letter written by a near relative of the titled possessor, which we have seen, it is stated, tliat the account is correct, and it is also stated, that the property, for that reason, was purchased for a lower price. The matter therefore remains involved in some mystery. We have since been informed by a clergyman, that he well remembers being told, of the sepulture of a body, on a house near Clapham Junction, on the London and South-Western Railway. Another instance has also been mentioned to us, as occurring in one of the midland counties. At the last moment, but in time to find a record in this note, a friend has kindly sent us the following facts, illustrative of our page heading, " Strange Wills." At Stevenage, in Hertfordshire, a pleasantly situated place on the High North Eoad, about eleven miles from Hertford, a resident, Henry Trigg, having peculiar ideas about the resurrection, left liis projierty to his heirs, upon condition, and in trust, that they put him in an oak coffin, and placed his Ijody on the rafters of his barn, attached to the Old Castle Public House, in the parish of Stevenage. There he was placed in 1724, and there he now remains. In the time when coaches stopped at the Old Castle Public House, there were many travellers on the Great Northern Eoad. The old oak coflUn was then a lion of the place, and brought grist to the landlord of the inn. Even now it is occasionally visited by the curious, D 34 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. clung to the fresh sea-air, and as we paced the deck near the wheel, we could not help observing the silent seaman, gazing intently in solemn earnestness, on his compass, as if, like Dr. Dee, he noted many things, within a magic crystal. He was a good-looking, though weather-beaten man, with a dark moustache. In answer to an observation we made, as to the weather, he said, " Well, sir, I never felt it so cold as it was last Sunday — not even in the Baltic last winter, when I had ice, an inch thick on my back. Why, I had three coats on last Sunday ! " We then remarked, that there Mere few accidents on the line of steamers. " Accidents you think seldom occur on this line ? W^ell, I don't know. There was the EcJio last winter ; not a soul saved ! Tve slipped four in my time, as have soon after gone down/' " You've been lucky," said we. " Lucky? W^ell — if there is such a thing as luck ; but I think Providence ordains all things ; I believe all things are ordained for us." Many sailors we have met, have been men of deep religious feeling ; below a rough surface, we have often found much true piety. The Chevalier still remained on deck, and we had a lono' conversation about Iceland. The Icelandic Ian- guage is the same as tlie old Norwegian language ; but he told us that it is difficult for one who speaks only modern Norwegian, to learn Icelandic. In Iceland, he said, they were great snuff-takers ; it was calculated that each person took 21bs. of snuff per head each year. Like the Scotch, they had their mulls or snuff-horns. At twelve o'clock on this day, the thermometer stood PllOONOSTICA TIONS. -.ir, at 62.^ The ladies had scarcely appeared; they generally suffer more than gentlemen. It was nearly twelve at night when we entered our cabin to go to bed. The occupant of the second berth was invisible, but not asleep ; and he asked whether we objected to have the cabin-door open. We were only too glad to oblige him, and with the bull's-eye window open also, we had an agreeable atmosphere. His mind was apparently still dwelling upon the gipsies. An interrogating voice issued ifrom the lower berth, as we were preparing to go to bed. " I suppose yoiT have been writing your diary? " "Yes." "Well, I suppose you will write a book? I will take two copies. Have you a bed or a mattrass in your tent?" "No!" " That would not do for me. I should have an air bed to keep you off the ground. You will probably stay a day or two at Christiania ? I suppose the gipsy girl will cook for you ? She will suffer, and be ill, won't she ? You will have much trouble with her." We informed him she had more spirit, and was quite as strong as her brothers. Our fellow-passenger again continued, " Where did you engage them ? " We answered, we had known them some time, and they were attached to us ; and then, wishing him good- night, we left him to pursue his dreams of the gipsies' dark eyes, which had evidently made an impression upon him. Our shrewd calculator was evidently under the gipsies' spell. CHAPTEK V. " Que veut dire ce mot la, Esmeralda ?" " Je ne sais pas," dit-elle. " A quelle langue appartlent-il ?" " C'est de I'figyptien, je crois." Notre Dame de Paris, par Victor Hugo. " What is the meaning of the name Esmeralda ?" " I don't know,'' said she. " To what language does it belong ?" " It is Egyptian, I believe." A seaman's adventures — THE UNFORTUNxVTE TOURIST — AN APT QUOTA- TION — FREEMASONRY — CHRISTIANSAND — PAST RECOLLECTIONS — THE RUNIC STONE — OVERPAYMENT — TWO SALMON FISHERMEN — A TRAVEL- LER'S CURIOSITY — NORWEGIAN SNAKES — SCENERY — WE ARE ONE — GOLDEN OPINIONS. On Sunday morning, the 19tli of June, we rose at four o'clock, and went on deck. The morning was cloudy ; not a passenger to be seen. The seaman at the helm received our salutation. This one did not possess a moustache, but he had his say, and said it. He philo- sophised thus. His wages were not 4d. a month, " 4/.," said he, " I ought to have ; but if I did not take less, they would ship men at 3/, who would. There were 300 men in the Custom House at Hull who never did more than two hours' work a day. They had not got it for them to do. He had been to California, and had, by gold digging, accumulated in a few months 350/. — v/as stuck-up coming down the country — lost all — shipped to Valparaiso, got about 80/., and set up in business. The InB UNFORTUNATE TOURIST. 37 Spainards and the Chilians had a row, and he walked off and lost everything. Had not done much — did not know where a man could go to make money — England was overcrowded. They were emigrating now from Norway, to the United States and Canada. Had tried Australia, but did nothing there. Had seen men in Sydney who were walking about, and could not get more than two hours' work. Thought it best to stick to England, though he could not get higher wages ; but, somehow," said he (finishing up) as he gave the wheel a pull, " we seem to be all going along together ; I suppose we shall come out at some gate, or other. It beats me, but I suppose it will be all right at last." We took advantage of early hours — our diary pro- gressed. Leave nothing to memory, but that page of perception, which gilds the past, with a thousand golden spangles. The tints of remembrance, give more genial hue. As a record of truth, the fects must be rigidly noted ; they must have instant impress, if they are to be of value. One by one, passengers appear in the saloon from their cabins. The Scotch tourist with a large sandy beard enters. He was one in search of health, and had by accident fallen thirty-seven feet, which nearly killed him. Could not speak Norwegian — had been very sea-sick — was going through Norway — tliought the fall had injured his head — felt very unwell, and looked it. We get a cup of tea at 7 "30. At eight o'clock, stewards make their appearance, and bustle about. The mornuig began to clear ; passengers assemble at break- fast in larger numbers and in better spirits. A fine day is expected. 38 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. ]\IaDy inquiries are made after our gipsies and donkeys. The gipsies were still unwell. Esmeralda managed some beefsteak and tea as slie lay on deek. Tlie gipsies had our best encouragement. The barrister and the officer recovered from the Roman fever (a member of the Naval and JMilitary Club) were both charmed with our gipsies' names. The officer especially so, and gave occasionally, the following recitation : — " Upon a time it cauie to pass That these two brothers die did ; They laid Tobias on his back, And Ezekiel by his side did." This quotation from a popular song, was considered a very apt illustration, of the probable fate, of our two gipsies, Noah and Zacharia, before the expedition was ended. The Birmingham bagman, was soon seen hovering on the narrow bridge, leading to the forecastle above the waist of the steamer. At times, he leaned upon the handrail, and would look down upon the deck below, where our gipsies reclined. Sometimes after gazing at them, he made some observation to Esmeralda. Occa- sionally he came to us, and was exceedingly anxious about the donkeys. So frequently did he come, and so many were his suggestions, that at last we began to fear, we should be in the same melancholy position, as Sinbad the Sailor, with the Old Man of the Sea. The passengers seemed most pleased with the name of Esmei'alda. The portly English gentleman said it was a gipsy queen's name. The barrister often hummed an air CHRISTIANSAND. 39 from a favourite opera called " Esmeralda," whicli had been brought out in London that very season. The Chevalier was in excellent spirits at dinner. He had been engaged upon a diplomatic mission to England. We discovered ourselves as Freemasons, which led to our taking champagne together at dinner. A young Norwegian, who spoke English exceedingly well, and his English wife, sat near us. The day had gradually become bright and lovely. The steamer approached Christiansand. In the afternoon, Ave sighted its forts. The town looked smiling, as if to wel- come us from the ocean. Several passengers were going on shore : the portly gentleman, the officer who had had the Roman fever, the Chevalier, and ourselves and gipsies descended into a boat. The fare when we landed was 16 shillings. The officer was going to some place near Lyngdal. We left him at the Custom House, passing his baggage. As he wished ourselves, and gipsies good-bye, his last words were, " Remember, I must have a copy of your book." We hope before this, he has recovered, and is able to read these pages. The houses of Christiansand are of wood ; the streets are broad, the pavement, when not Macadamized, often rough and uneven. The town had wonderfully improved since our last visit. Christiansand recalled to mind the time, when a friend and ourself, once landed there from England. We had sailed in a small fishing-smack, commanded by Captain Dixon. It was our first visit to Norway. We stayed at the Scandinavian Hotel, kept by Madame Lemcou, The hotel was very like a private house. No one spoke English. Well, we remember our difficulties, and tlu; 40 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. kind old inliabitant, who called upon us. He had no doubt come to place his knowledge of the country at our service. His stock of English consisted of " your most humble obedient servant," which he often repeated. Our knowledge of Norwegian, at that time was in comparison, scarcely more extensive, so that our interview, ended much as it began. We rambled with our gipsies through the town. It was a sunny evening. The inhabitants were also en- joying their evening promenade. Although warm, and pleasant, scarcely any of the windows of the houses, were opened for ventilation. The sides of the w^ooden houses were often covered with weather-boai'ds, and painted. Esmeralda, with her dark raven hair, and eyes ; Noah, with his tall figure ; Zacharia decorated with a flaming yellow " dicklo " (gipsy handkerchief) flaunting round his neck hi gipsy fasliion, were severally scanned by curious observers as we passed. Noah heard one person say in Enghsh, "How healthy-looking they are!" We could not help being amused, at the puzzled expression of some, not excepting several young soldiers we met. We walked round the cathedral, which was not im- proved by whitewash, and possessed no chef d'oeuvre of sculptured ornament, to make us linger in our con- templation. The old Runic stone in the churchyard of Oddernoes Church, we had before visited. Noah — whose ideas no doubt connected most views with sites for a camp — pointed out one • highly suitable on the bank of the Torrisdals Elv. Time w^ore away, and we at length made our way quickly down to the boats, w^alting at the rough wooden piers of the harbour. OVERPAYMENT. 41 We had a boat to ourselves. Esmeralda sat with us at the stern — her two brothers sat on the seat opposite. As the boatman rowed us from the shore, we thought how strangely, we wander through the world, as we follow the high road of life. When we reached the Albion steamer, many passengers were looking over the side of the vessel. We had no small change, when we went on shore, but the portly gentleman kindly lent us the necessary amount. On our return it was necessary to pay the boatman. We gave him the smallest change we had, which was a quarter of a dollar, and then ascended the gangway with our gipsies. The Birmingham bagman had been watching us. " Ah !" said he, coming up, as we stepped on deck, "why you gave the man too much. I saw you give a large piece of silver to him. He pulled off his hat to you. You spoil them." We explained that w^e had no change. "But," said he, in a state of excitement, "you spoil them." We trusted it would do the boatman good, and left him, to communicate his ideas of pecuniary compen- sation, to some one else. This he appears to have done ; for very shortly after the Chevalier coming on board, grossly infringed, the bagman's scale of payment, and he came in for another storm of indignant remonstrance. Monsieur le Chevalier, whose quiet humour nothing could disturb, asked the excited bagman, why he did not give the boatman the English half-crown ho wanted to get rid of? "Can you give me any discount?" shouted the bagman, infuriated. The Chevaher calmly answered, " Your appearance shows me, that you can give me nothing to discount upon." The bagman rushed 42 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. off, and we fuiiiid liiiu «ome short time after, when we went into our cabin, lying in his berth. " I have had a row witli that Dutchman," said he, beginning to unfold his melancholy history, when we advised him to mind his own affairs, and went on deck. Two gentlemen came on board at Christiansand, whom we at once noted as salmon fishermen. Both were handsome, though slightly past the meridian of life. One w^as taller than his companion, with a com- plexion, darkly bronzed in the summer's sun, and by exposure to the fresh air. He had been on board a very few^ minutes, when we entered into conversation. His companion, and himself, had been at Mandal, salmon- fishing, but the w^eather was hot, and the w^ater low, and clear. The largest salmon they had taken was 181bs. My expedition incidentally became partly known in con- versation. He seemed much interested. We showed him our donkeys, and he seemed to tlnnk our expedition a heavy cost. Very shortly after, when we had parted, our gipsies came on the after-deck, and said a gentleman in a velvet jacket had sent for them. We told them to return, and soon after saw Mr. T. interrogating Noah on the fore-deck. We were rather annoyed at the time, that any one should send for our people and question them as to who their master w'as, and his name. When we saw Noah afterwards, he said, " I told him nothing, sir. He asked your name, and I told him 'Harper.'" Afterwards IMr. T. again joined us on deck, with the portly gentleman and the barrister in search of health. Mr. T. w^as afraid of sleeping on the ground, and having rheumatism. He mentioned an American method — a kind of frame which Icept you completely off the ground, NORWEGIAN i^NAKES. 43 and folded into a small compass. We described our tent, and many questions were asked about our method of camping, which we explained. Most seemed very anxious to know, how we became acquainted with our gipsies. But we merely said that our interest in the tent-dwelling races, had thrown us in contact with them. The portly gentleman informed us that a species of viper existed in Norway, but the snakes were not numerous. He said he w^as once in the Thelemarken* district, and having put up the horses in a shed, he lay down on the turf. Some time afterwards when he got up, a small viper, was found clinging to his coat, which, falhng off, the peasants cut it into pieces and burnt each piece separately, since they have an idea that if the pieces get together, the viper can piece itself again. When he afterwards got into his carriole to continue his journey, he felt a shivering sensation between his shoulders most of the day. Mr. T. asked a variety of questions, about our commissariat, and what we were taking, and seemed much interested in the expedition. We gave him the best information we could. He was one of the best types of an Englishman we met with in Norway. The passengers began to recover. The steamer had been nearly two days at sea. The evening was beautiful. We had been charmed with the rocks tinged with reddish hue, rising in picturesque outline, from the Topdals Fjord. The fringed pine woods of the shore, were mirrored upon the almost motionless water, of the Norwegian frith. The passengers were now more numerous at tea. Some ladies joined us. All were looking forward to their arrival the next morning at Christiania. * Sometimes spelt Telemarkeu. 44 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. It was delicious as we strolled on deck. What a pleasant freedom there is upon the sea, away from the hum, and noise, of the great human struggle, of many minds, in populous cities ! What bitterness and strife, misery and evil, we had left far behind us ! As we paced the deck in the delightful contemplation, of a summer's eve at sea, we could not help noticing, Mr. C. and his wife, with the Tyrolese hat and feather. They were seated side by side on the deck, with their backs towards us. In silence, they appeared lost in happy contemplation. The surrounding light of circum- stances seemed to say, " We are one ! " How pleasurable should be the feelings of two hearts firmly united, hold- ing, as it were, silent communion with each other. By a few touches of the pencil, in our small note-book, we caught their outline. We felt we were in the hallowed precincts of true love, and retired to another part of the vessel, lest we should disturb their happy dream. We again lounged near the man at the helm. There stood the sailor, with his compass before him, as the aOLBEN OPINIONS. 45 vessel glided onwards from England's shore. This sea- man was not one of our former friends, but he was a rough, honest-looking, thick-set, hardy fellow ; one of those men, who carry honesty written in their counte- nance. " "Well, sir, I hope you will have a pleasant time of it," said he. We thanked him for his good wishes, " That young lady," continued he, alluding to Esmeralda " has had more than one talking to her. There's that one, sir," said he, looking towards the Birmingham bagman, who was walking about in the distance, with his hands thrust deep in his trousers' pockets as usual ; " and there's another that is just gone. But she is not one of that sort ; she let them go so far, and then she stopped them short. She's a very good young girl. They have had a good education ; " and he gave his wheel another tug, as if to clinch tlie observation. CHAPTEE YI. " Free as the winds that through the foi-est rush — Wild as the flowers that by the way-side blush. Children of nature wandering to and fro, Man knows not whence ye come, nor where ye go, Like foreign weeds cast up on western strands, Which stormy waves have borne from unknown lands ; Like murmuring shells to fancy's ear that tell The mystic secrets of their ocean cell." The Gij:isies. Dean Stanley's Prize Poem. ^rARINER's LIFE — THE EVASIVE ANSWER — A TRUE PRESEXTIJIEXT — THE KING OF SWEDEN AND NORWAY— THE BEAUTIFUL FJORD — GIPSY MUSIC — A CUSTOM-HOUSE DIFFICULTY — ANOTHER FREEMASON — AP- PROPRIATE VERSES — CHRISTIANIA — HORSE MONEY — 17, STORE STRANDGADE. The stewards were excellent. One had been ship- wrecked several times. " Rough work in winter, sir. Most on the line get lost. At Hull most of the young men who go to sea are drowned." Not very encouraging information, thought we, but such are the chances of a seaman's life. Having sent our gipsies to bed, we retired ourselves. About twelve o'clock our first doze was dis- turbed by a noise in our cabin. Looking round, we saw the bag-man with a bottle in his hand. He was takino- Lamplough's pyretic saline, which he strongly recom- mended for headache, or to set you right after drinking. After taking his draught, he disappeared into his berth. Our thermometer was 66°, with both port-holes open. AVe were recommended to look out for beautiful A TRUE PRESENTIMENT. 47 scenery, at about seven o'clock the next morning. AVlien we went on deck, at an early hour, the weather was clamp and cloudy. Some time afterwards we had a chat on deck, Avith our tcllow-passenger the barrister. He was going to Chris- tiania, and from thence by the coast steamer to the North Cape. The coast excursion is a very pleasing one. Our fellow-passenger was full of anecdotes and information. 3Ir. T., after examining our gipsy, Noah, had said to the barrister, " I find that the gentleman's name is Harper." " You are quite in error, I can assure you," said the barrister, " the gipsies have only been cramming you." jMr. T. appeared much astonished, and we said it was only what he could expect ; and, although not done in- tentionally, it was not exactly the right way to acquire information ; and any one doing so would not get much for their trouble. We had risen at four o'clock. Our portly fellow-passenger, was also up soon after, and wish- ing us good-bye, descended with his portmanteau into a boat, and left the steamer. This he did to save time, not wishing to go to Christiania. We found afterwards that a young Norwegian in the second cabin, would have gladly availed himself of the same boat. He had been absent eight years from his home, and friends, and was anxious to see them as soon as possible. When he afterwards arrived at Christiania, he said, " I have a dread, that I shall hear some bad news." After a short absence from the steamer, he again returned. His worst fears were but too true, and he sat down, and cried very much. Such are the melancholy scenes of life, meeting us at every turn, and sadly remind us, of the short existence of all things in this world. 48 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. The early morning was rather clamp and wet. The passengers were up in good time. Our gipsies we found as gay and sprightly, as they had been before ill, and prostrate. Mr. T. still seemed delighted with our expe- dition, and visited from time to time our gipsies, with his friend, whom we took for his brother. We mustered well at breakfast, under the presidency, of our polite captain. When we had finished, and returned on deck, our title to be recognised as an accepted mason, after a very rigid and searching ordeal, was at length acknow- ledged, by Monsieur le Chevalier, who was exceedingly particular. From various circumstances, we had not been lately to our lodge in London. We still retained pleasant remi- niscences of former visits, and especially of our reception, at those Lodges we once visited in Paris, with our old friend the Chevalier M.* His Majesty the King of Sweden and Norway is now one of the most distinguished masons in Europe. May he long hold the proud position, of being a monarch, whose power rests upon the affections, of a free, and noble-hearted people, f The conversation at breakfast, was lively and animated. * Caesar Moreau, Chevalier de la Legion d'Hoiineur, was the author of ' Precis sur la Franc-Ma9onnerie ; son Origine, son Histoire, ses Doctrines, &c," Also the founder of the Societe de Statistique Universelle, et de TAcademie de Tlndustrie Fran9aise ; also Member of the Eoyal Society, and many other learned societies in Europe. t His Majesty, the noble-hearted Carl XV., patron of literature and art, himself an author, was born 3rd May, 1826, and died, after a severe illness, in the noontide of his life, at Malmoe, in Sweden, on the 18th September, 1872, mourned and sincerely regretted by his attached subjects. The King was the eldest son of Oscar I., and grandson of the celebrated French General Bernadotte, Prince of Ponte ,Corvo, who ascended the throne in 1818 as Carl XI Y. His Majesty Carl XV. was buried on the 9th October, 1872, in Ritterholm Church, and is succeeded by his brother, the Duke of Ostergotland, under the title of Oscar II. GIPSY MUSIC. 49 Most of the passengers were in good spirits, and seemed delighted with the bright anticipations, of their approach- ing wanderings, over fjekl and fjord. Even the Birming- ham bagman was better, and we noticed him, at some distance from us, feeding liis beard, in a most reckless manner with efro-. AYhat a delightful scene presented itself after break- fast ! From the steamer's deck, we gazed on the beautiful fjord, calm and glistening in the sun. The cloudy morn- ing was now changed — all was lovely, and filled the heart with a dreamy sensation of pleasure. Rocky shores, wooded islands, secluded maisonettes, and dark pine woods, extended as far as the eye could reach, into the boundless distance of endless woodland — one eternity of nature, which reminded us of the stanza : — " There is a pleasure in tlie patliless woods ; There is a rapture on the lonely shore ; There is society where none intrudes By the deep sea, and music in its roar." Soon after breakfast Mr. T. came to us, and said, " I have asked your young man to play his violin, and he very properly says he cannot do so, without your permis- sion." Mr. T. was anxious to hear them play; we there- fore at once gave our consent. Noah came for one of the Regent Street tambourines, then in our cabin, and in a very short time the gay sounds of violin and tambourine, were heard in the Christiania Fjord. Our gipsies were grouped below the fore-deck, the sun w^as shining. The travellers and sailors seemed much amused. " Why you are travelling with your band ! " said some of the pas- sengers. Nor shall we forget the tall form of our gipsy, Noah, with his hat placed jauntily on one side his head, as he rattled the tamboui-ine, with a verve, and feeling 50 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. which only one, of wild, strong passions can do. Mr, T. came up. " I Hke your idea very much," said he ; " and I suppose that young gipsy girl, will cook for you. I admire her boots ; they are something like boots. What a difference," whispered he, as a genteel, ladylike passenger, passed near, whose small, thin, elaborately- worked, fashionable boots, with high heels, and small rosettes, just above the toes, certainly did not appear, fitted to promote, the elasticity of the footstep, or comfort of the wearer, among the Norwegian fjelds and fjords. Then we had much speculation as to the astonishment of the Norwegian people, when they saw our donkeys. We were informed that the Chevalier's father, had once possessed the only donkey in Norway. This animal had long since been dead, and Norway had been left without a single donkey in all the land. Some said we ought to make a charge for exhibiting them to the peasantry, and an animated discussion took place, as to the amount of duty to be paid, before they could be landed. ' ' One said it would be the same as upon horses ; another said that the duty could not be the same as upon horses, and they would have nothing to pay. Some passengers ex- pressed an opinion, that they would have to pass a law in the Storthing, to assess the amount of duty, before we could possibly land them, and it might cost us 20/. to get them through. As we approached Christiania, and our voyage was nearly over, we had our account to discharge with the stewards. Our gipsies cost quite a fortune. If they had been ill at first, their appetites must have been ravenous, towards the close of the voyage. The steward had been told, to let them have everything they wanted to eat, and A FREEMASON. 51 to drink ; we could not, therefore, say miicli, so settled the bill. Both stewards, hoped we should come back in the same vessel, and took some trouble to give us the dates of sailing, from Christiansand. It was then our intention to take the steamer from Christiansand, at the end of the summer. We met with another freemason on the mornino- we landed at Christiania, whom we believe was chief en- gineer — a very stout-built man, with a kind, amiable disposition, whose every word rang, of open-heartedness, and benevolence. He had a jolly, merry wife, and a French poodle dog, which, of course, begged, and was as intelligent, as those animals usually are. We became very good friends. Before we landed he gave us a news- paper, containing some verses, which, if we remember right, were written by some man going to be hung. Unfortunately, we have mislaid the gift. Our friend said the verses had struck his wife, and himself, as being most appropriate to the wanderings of ourself, and the young people. They wished us all success, which we sincerely reciprocated. ' In the second cabin there was also a sea captain, and liis wife, from Australia — very kind people to our gipsies ; in fact, we could not help feeling, some tinge of regret, that we were so soon to leave. Yet we were on the threshold of camp life. We were about to continue our former wanderings. The thread broken elsewhere, was to be resumed in Norway. We must admit, that the allurements of fresh scenes of nomadic life, softened our separation, and gave us new hopes for the approach- ing campaign. Our baggage was mounted on deck, as we approached E 2 52 TENT LIFE IN yoKlVAY. Christiauia. V^ery soon we liad the city of Christiaiiia in full view, with the King's palace, and castle of Agers- huns.* We could scarcely account for the feeling, but Christiania seemed to wear a pleasant, homelike aspect, which we liked. It was probably eleven o'clock when the steamer arrived. A number of the inhabitants had arrived on the pier. Mr. Bennett v^^as there. Time had favoured him, for he looked stronger, and we might say younger, than when \\e were last at Christiania. One of the first incidents before landing was a solicitation for liorse-money. It seems to be a kind of payment cus- tomary for the benefit of the sailors ; and it was hoped that the donkeys, although not horses, would still entitle the sailors to its payment. We had enjoyed such a plea- sant voyage, and were in such good temper, with all on board, that we did not raise any objection to the remuneration. What a quaint, foreign -looking court-yard you enter as you seek Mr. Bennett. Numbers of carrioles are crowded together at the end of the court, ready for distant journeys. Then you ascend some steps, to a wooden balcony, and enter his suite of rooms. One large room is completely full of Norwegian silver relics — tankards, belts of a past age, carvings, paintings, en- gravings, photographs of Norwegian scenery, maps, books, and all sorts of articles, illustrative of the manners, and customs of the Norwegians, of ancient and modern time. AVe seem to have wandered into a dream-land * Hoylaiid, the JloHn Hood of Norway, after tliree years' patient perse- verance, effected a clever escape, from the Agershnus. Being again retaken afterwards, he ultimately died, within the walls of this castle. It is said that some of his treasure is still buried in the fjelds of Norway, where he had deposited, his spoils for safety. 17, STORE STBANDGADE. 53 of ancient sagas, and ten to one you meet other spirits who are doing the same. Mr. Bennett, the presiding genius of the place, had probably ceased to be astonished at any mode of travel- ling an Englishman might adopt, AVilliams had landed with his knapsack, which resulted in an interesting work, having the additional value, of giving a correct entry, of the expenses of his expedition. MacGregor came en route to Sweden, w^ith his canoe, and wrote another interesting work. Now an Englishman comes with gipsies and donkeys ! What next ? ''' The worthy Eng- lish consul, and charge-d' affaires^ who so well represents our country, was absent from Christiania, but we were introduced to his son. When he heard of our retinue, grave doubts as to our safety, apparently crossed his mind. He seemed to think it improbable, we should return to our friends. It could scarcely be expected, that Mr. Bennett could advise us, upon the best camping- grounds, but we must ever feel grateful remembrance to him, for the trouble he took, to pass our things through the Custom-house, and forward those left behind to Eidsvold. The cicerone provided for us by the Chevalier, dined with us at the Victoria Hotel, Raadhuusgaden. The day was lovely. We found some of our fellow-passengers, already seated at the table fVhote. * Two intrepid French travellers afterwards landed from their balloon, " La Ville d'Orleans." Captain Rolier and Emile Cartailhae, during the siege'of Paris, ascended from that city, on the night of the -lAth. November, 1870, and after a perilous voj^age of adventure, across the sea, they ulti- mately descended in Norway, on the snows of the Lidfjeld, in the Thele- marken. The two aeronauts received shelter, and assistance from the two mountaineers, Clas and Harold Strand ; and with the Avelcome and hos- pitality of an ever-generous people, they were enabled to leave Christiania, and rench in safetA' their native land. CHAPTER VII. " Gii^sies, although long forgotten, and despised, have claims which we must not resist. Their eternal destinies, their residence in our own land, i)oint us to a line of conduct we ought to pursue. They show that God expects us, to be interested for them, and to impart to them, the crumbs which fall from our table." " T]t,e Gipsies." By a Clergyman of the Church of England. THE VICTORIA HOTEL— THE GIPSIES' FRIEND — THE PASSE-PARTOUT— PRESTEN EILERT SUNDT — THE CHRISTIANIA RAILWAY — OUR DONKEYS APPRE- CIATED — GIPSY SPIRIT — THE " TOLK " — NORWEGIAN MONEY — LIN- GUISTIC DIFFICUTIES — GIPSY AUTHORS — GIPSY NUMERALS— DEPARTURE FROM CHRISTIANIA. There is often a pleasant sociability at a table dlidte. Mr. T. was there, the invalid barrister, the tall Scotch- man, and other travellers. Nor was the Birmingham bagman absent, as the background to throw out the lively tints of life's experience. Mr. T. and the barrister sat near us. LIr. T. was delighted with our plan of seeing Norway, saying it was just what he should like. Time passed quickly. We hastily terminated our dinner, with some excellent Chateau-de-la-Rose claret, and then bade our fellow-travellers farewell. As we left the table, - we saw the Birmingham bagman mournfully contemplat- ing his fork. AVhether he was going to use it as a toothpick, or whether he was calculating its cost, or whether he was hesitating, as to the possibility of sleep- ing in a tent without a bed, we know not. Whatever THE GIPSIES' FRIEND. 55 his tliouglits may have been, we could have no un- friendly feeling at parting, especially after his extreme anxiety for the comfort of our donkeys, his admiration of Esmeralda's dark eyes, and his liberal offer, to take two copies of our book. Be this as it may, we trust by some mysterious method of calculation, he will make a hand- some profit to himself We found that Presten Eilert Sundt had not yet re- moved to Eidsvold. The Chevalier kindly gave us a letter of introduction to him, and v,e drove at once to his resi- dence in the suburbs ©f Christiania, which we reached at about four o'clock. Ascending a large staircase, in a few minutes we were shown into Presten Sundt's sitthig- room. The "gipsies' friend" was seated at his writing- table, Avitli his books, papers, and various accessories, indicating active, and literary tastes. We met as two spirits, who, though taking far separate paths in life, had the same results in view — the same end to accomplish. Nor could we help being impressed with the energy written so strongly on his countenance. His forehead surmounted by thick, bristly hair, gave additional deter- mination, to an expressive look, tempered by gleams of strong feeling. Then we discovered the combination of great energy, with a deep interest in the welfare of his fellow-men. When Presten Sundt had read the Cheva- lier's letter, we at once explained that our time was limited, and we should shortly take the train from Chris- tiania to Eidsvold. Many were his inquiries about the English gipsies. The Norwegian gipsies, he said, were difficult to meet with. Presten Sundt, said a traveller had called upon him last year when he was from home ; Mrs. Sundt received the visitor, who said he was much 56 TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. mterested in gipsies, and l)cfore lie left gave the name of Visconiit ^^oll^)e. Prestcn Snndt showed us the works lie liad written, and tlieir [)ractieal vahie cannot be too liiglily estimated. Foreseeing the many difficulties, om- small gipsy party might encounter, in a strange country, Presten Sundt wrote out, .signed, and sealed a document Avhich he delivered to us. It was a kind oi passe-partout., requesting his countrymen at all times to give us aid and assistance, and a kindly reception was ensured. The name of Presten Eilert Sundt, was so well known, in the length, and breadth, of Norway's land, that a few words were the " open sesame " of our excursion, and possessed a talismanic value, we must always appreciate. Presten Eilert Sundt introduced us to Mrs. Sundt and his son. Coffee was brought in, but, alas ! our time had expired. Presten Sundt regretted our hasty departure, and suddenly decided to accompanv us to the station and brino- his son. We all stepped into the carriage, still in waiting, and TEE CEEISTIANIA RAILWAY. 57 drove towards the station. Un route oiir conversation was continued upon the subject of gipsies. We sug- gested, that in order to utihse the energy, and ability of the gipsy race, those paths in hfe, should be selected, in harmony with their previous habits. The descendants of generations of tent-dwellers, could not be turned hito hairengwes^ or house-dwellers, by a wave of the hand. Their employment must be consistent with their inborn, and inherent attachment, to the pure air of heaven. The rain poured down in torrents, as we drove up to the station, and entered the salle cTattente. At first w^e could not see anything of our people, though the hour of departure was near at hand. As we waited in the salle d'attente., Presten Sundt pointed to a map of Norway, hang- ing on the wall. It was the " Reisekart over Norges," in two sheets. Presten Sundt recommended the map, as being coloured to indicate the cultivated, and inclosed portions of the country, so that we could distinguish with tolerable accuracy, the wild and open districts, likely to form our most convenient camping-grounds. AVhilst there was yet time, Presten Sundt's son kindly purchased one for us. At length we found our cicerone in the left-luggage office. He had acted the part of pilot, to enable the gipsies and donkeys to reach the station. The donkeys had been the centre of considerable interest to the in- habitants of Christiania that day. Multitudes thronged on board the Albion steamer. The deck was trodden and tramped by an animated people, anxious to inspect the new arrivals. The gipsies must have felt some slight degree of envy upon the occasion. This curiosity of the inhabitants was onlv natural, when we consider that 58 TENT LIFE IN NOIIWAY. they liad never seen any donkeys before, and they were quite as likely to excite special interest, as the hippo- potamus we well remember in the Zoological Gardens, Regent's Park. Can we forget the intensity of the moment, when it rose to the surface of its tank, and its nose, was distinguished for a few moments above water? Can we forget the satisfaction of impatient crowds of visitors, when such an event occurred? If we could know the discussions respecting our donkeys, they would doubtless be most instructive — a tome of literature, added to the natural history of the animal kingdom. The animals were pulled about from nose to tail. Their ears were pulled — a particular part of the back, was pressed with ^the thumb, to gauge their strength ; their mouths opened, their teeth examined, their fore-legs smoothed down with many hands. One of the sailors being asked what he called them, answered, "Rabbits," and pointing to the " Puru Pawnee," informed them that she was the mother of all rabbits. No rest had the animals, and sorely puzzled they must have been, to make out what it was all about. The sailors could with difficulty manage to Avash the decks. At length, one, either by accident, or intention, gave the croAvd a sudden shower-bath with the ship's hose, bringing forth ejacula- tions, which my gipsies did not understand. Multitudes of pocket-handkerchiefs, removed the moist resuHs, as our friends precipitately left the vessel. Our time had been so occupied, that we could not return to the steamer before the evening train. The gipsies had remained oil board during the day in charge of the donkeys. They expected us from hour to hour. Esmeralda informed us afterwards, that they had almost (UPSY SPIIilT. 59 given us up, we were so long. Before tliey left for tlie railway-station, Mr. T. and the invalid barrister Lad been to tlie steamer to inquire after tlieir master, and joked tliem about our absence. " What shall you do, now your master is gone away ? " Upon which Esme- ralda answered, " My word, I shall let him know what it is staying in this way; I shall speak my mind." "You must keep your master under," said Mr, T. " Yes, I will," said Esmeralda, with assumed indignation, which caused much laughter. Yet, with all her w^ild spirit, we had no cause to complain of want of obedience in Esmeralda. Many long, long miles, we afterwards walked together, and we must always remember her willing- attention, in our hours of camp life. When our gipsies saw us at the station, their eyes lighted up with a thousand smiles. On board the Albion, a young man offered his services as an interpreter, or " Tolk," as they are designated in Norway. We were afterwards accosted in the street, by a smart-looking fellow, much more fit for a butler, than a campaigner, who also wished to accompany us. We declined their aid, preferring for the present to trust to our own resources, rather than make any addition to our part3\ Our donkeys, notwithstanding the various opinions expressed, were allowed to land without any duty being- charged. Mr. Bennett kindly arranged for the railway tickets, and procured for us the amount of small money we required. Every traveller is obliged to take a good supply of small coin. It is not very easy to get change .out of large towns in Norway. Mr. Bennett's Guide Book gives complete information as to the various small ()() TENT LIFE IN NORWAY. coins in circulation, and their actual value. Some are depreciated, to less than the amount marked upon them. Thus: eight-skilling pieces, with the crown and ' F.R.VL' on the reverse, are now only worth six shillings; and iour-skilling i)ieces, with the same reverse are only worth three shillings. This is often perplexing at the commence- ment of a Norwegian tour. NORWEGIAN MONEY. 1 shilling . . . equals nearly a halfpenny. 24 shillings equal a mark or ort, or lOfc/. 5 marks or orts ,, a specie dollar or 4s. h^d. There are dollar notes. One (een), variegated coloured paper ; five (fem), blue ; ten (ti), yellow ; fifty (femti), green ; one hundred dollars (hnndrede dollars), pink. Immediately Presten Sundt caught siglit of our gipsies at the station, he commenced speaking in the Romany language. He tried their knowledge of Romany numerals. Noah, we believed, failed at five or six. Their reckoning powers are not of high order, especially as they are unable to read and write. Baudrunont, in his work containing a vocabulary of the gipsy language, spoken by gipsies wandering in the French territory of the Basque Provinces, says, the gipsy women he questioned say "jec" for one, "doui" for two, and they did not know any higher numeral, using beyond two, "bSter" (bouter) signifying "much."* Colonel Harriot, whose collection of Romany words is, we believe, prin- cipally obtained from the gipsies of the Xew Forest of Hampshire, gives one, "yek;" two, "due;" three, "trin;" four, "star;" five, " panj ;" six, " shov ; " and says, " Beyond these numbers I never could proceed with any success." Dr. Bath C. Smart, in his collection of gipsy words to complete his gipsy LIN(WIi