Ex Libris K. OGDEN THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES ^ TOPOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF GLOUCESTER, Contalnijig an Account of its Situation, Mines, Agriculture, Extent, Minerals, Fairs, Tovns, Fisheries, Marl-^ijs2g-3 ^s^5??2,s?,*rs?,s=^'g:;?? . • "^«j^;^2a?i'£g2?;'A«gg? fe-gS^^l ?^£^^^S^Ii2='2?^5S«^5^^ ■fl-^^s--^ i?i^^:;-!2£2P^-Sf?-yp,»-i ^liao... ^;^^^5^^^^-^£Tc?5i;i^3 -S^Oi:r?, = = -•§2S'§5-:f:-3<'5?;i7^1iS r" S^ a^S~;^Z^ •-5-cS§i~'^-x--s-5^;?^«ST n =- ^f5g'i-^?5^ s ;2 g-'-x. = >„> s^e; = R-2'??.H 2 S !f-^,f;2.'2-^^ ^^'i?^ir:7^'^-^i-S-^??'~ '^'■~ i^--' 1:7 8- 25 r, H 2 S ^i; '- 2: •§ S £'2 §J ^ 2 •^ Q.^ c o - ■? -o -f 5 !U <»- £ i= - c K^.r o - 3 CCOOCOOD ,Q >.-h1-| • = C .; C •= ' ^>j5 s ^P^t ^4) S 3 b o o '- c ~ 5 1 1 "II 2 i 4 ^ g U ■ 3 2 F '/• ^' S = ~ GLouci:sTRi!snjRi:, with the exception of the Chapelries (;f Jam and Clowhonyborn, i.s included witlnn the Diocese of Gloucester, which comprehends one archdeaconry, and ten deaneries, and is in the province of Canterbury. 1 •1 o 1 CO c« c< ■:* c< S 1 a -tit |i Ills. s S o i « 3 * S -8=3 ^ pi 1 .•!^ ^ .. t ® S ^ -^ 5 2 -3 = > . AN ITINERARY OF THE DIRECT AND PRINCIPAL CROSS ROADS, GLOUCESTERSHIRE. In which are included the Stages, Inns, and Gentlemen's Seats. N. B. The first Column contains the Names of Places passed through ; the Figures that follow shezo the Distances from Place to Place, Toivn. to Town, and Stages ; and in the last Column are the Names at' Gentlemen's -Seats and Inns. The light and left of the lioads are distinguisited by the letters R and L. JOURNEY FROM BRISTOL TO TEWKESBURY, THROUGH GLOUCESTER. Bristol to fiorfield i'ilton Ahxiondsbury Ruclgevvay Alverston Buckiirst Fai field Stone Woodford Newport Berkley Heath Eillowbridge Gate Cambridge Inn Church End vVhitminster Inn Putloe ]VIorton/\''alence Parking Green llardvvicke Ehn Quedgeley Quedgeley Green lieiupstead A 3 H n 4 3 7 '2 9 li wi 41 151 U 16l 1 Uh H 18l 11 m 1 m 3 231 H 25i 1 wi 1| 28 1 28l l| 30* 1 4 31^ Inn — Roytd Oak Tockington, S, Feach, esq. Stone, Wehh, esq. R, Berkley Castle, Earl of Berkley, L. Inns — Red Lion, Bell, &^ Castle, Crown Gqffingion-hallf JcTies, esq. 6 Gloucester Longford Twigw'orth Norton Comb Hill Walton Tewkesbury ITINERARY OF THE 341- hms—Bcll, Boofh-hall.Sifaa and Bollj '['oKn-hall Longford, Dr. Chesion, R I i^acHwortfi-honse, Mrs. Hat/ ward, R Inn — Sican 30^ 401 411 441 Bristol to Lower Easton May's Hill Niblcy Yate Sodbury Cross Hands Inn Petty France Tetbury Cirencester Mi/l/ic, Filch. Jdck^on, esq. William ])'l/on, esq. Iv, Thomas Porie^'j eaq. L Inns— /io:; FoUf Star and Garter, Saan BRISTOL TO CIRENCLSTER, THROUGH SODBURY AND T£TBURY. At Stapleton, — Isaac, El/on^ esq. L. Stoke Park, Duke of Beaufort, L. Between Eastoi and Mai/i; Hill^ l-il Badimntoiiy Duke ()f Beau- Dunkirk i 15 ^(>'A ^ Didmarton Hare and Hound Deven Tetbury li 231" High grove-home, J. Taul Higlitields U 2b Faul, esq. L. Weston Birt, P, Holford, esq. R Trouble House | 25t [nns-ThreeCupSyWhlte-hart Cirencester 8 ',^c} The Abbet/, Thos. Musters, esq. OakLey Park, Eai'l But hurst. Inns — King*s Head, Ram CIRENCESTER TO BERKLEY, THROUGH MINCHINGHAMFTON. Cirencester to H «i 1 H - 111 ■; 1^1 i 15 '4 171 3i- 20|- 1 2U ll 231- u 25 1 25f 8 33^ — — Minchinghampton Stanley Cambridge Inn Berkley Heath Berkley 10 10 ^H 151 i m 4 23i ^l m — Inn — Crown Stanley Park, H. J. Burgesf:, esq. L In n — Ccnnhridge Gossington-huUy lute J. Picky esq. The Castle, Seat of Earl Berkley CIRENCESTER TO DURSLEY. TtJROUGH TETBURY. Cirencester to At Kemble,C. W. Cox, esq. L I'etbury 10 !0 Chevinage-hall, Mrs, Beverston 2 12 Stevens, R. Kingscote 3 15 Col. Kingscote Si/mondham-haU^ J, PhillU Buisley 5 20 " more, esq. 12 ITINERA NORTHLEACil NORTIILEACII to Tvoz Mill lull Dowd swell Charlton Kings Cheltenham Bedlam Heydon's Elm Staverton Bridge Wooton, T. G. Gloucester Over Highman Churciiman Birdwood Huntlev May mil Long Hope Lea Weston Ross n 231 29| i>42 36i 39 RY OF THE TO MONMOUTU. Inn — Frog Mill Inn Sandy cccU Parky Mrs. Tra- cei/, R At Dodszoell, Rogers, esq. Charlton Kings, D. Hinit^ esq. L. Inns — Fleece, Gee Hotel At Sou t ham, a Seat of the ancient famili/ of Velcbcre; half a mile zccstward of Chelteyiham, a Seat of Earl Fauconberg. hms— Bell, Bolt Booth Hall, King's Head, Swan At Matson, Lord P''iscount Si Iney, L Highmun-house, Ladj/ ■ j Guise, R At Huntlei/, J. Blunt, esq. Castle End, Archdeacon Pro- bi/n, L. Burton, Whalej/ Armitage, esq. R At Weston, T. Nixon, esq, F. Lawson, esq. and John Hardwick, esq. Inns — King^s Head, King*s Anns, Swan The Hill, Mrs. Clark. Hill Cottage, Capt Roc. 4* ^'eit> Hill, C.Bond, esq. at Ross, William Hill, esq. Mount Pleasant, J. Holder, esq. Over Ross, J. bourse, esq. ROADS Wilton Upper Wear Lower Wear Pencraig, T. G. Goodrich Cross Old Ford Whitchurch Ganarevy Dixton Monmouth jNjGLOUCESTERSJIIRE. 13 40 41 42i 431 44i 45-. 465 48i Pencraig Court, J. Rohin" S071, esq. R Goodrich, W. Foskett,esg. L Whitchia-ch, W. Groves, esq. and Col. JSLolijneux Fort- house, H. Barnes, esq. Lays, T. O. At t lay, esq. Hadnock-housc, Mrs. Griffin. CHEPSTOW TO GLOUCESTER. Chepstow to Tiddenham Woolaston Alvington Ay 1 burton Lydney Blakeney Nlwnham Westbury Minsterworth Higham Gloucester TEWlvl Tewkesbury to Northvvay Beck lord Bengeworth Evesham H 4 1 ^f 1 1 li 3i 12 3 15 3| 181 ^ '23 2 2.5 2 27 — Tiddeiiham, Williains, esq. L jdney hurst, L Inn — Bear Hay-hill, lloynan Jo7i€S,esq,'L Westbury, John Colchester ^ Broad Oak, John Wintles, esq. R High Grove, Charles EvanSj esq. L iBURY TO EVESHAM. 3 121 Beck ford, W. Weakman, esq. Overbury, James Martin, esq. L. Taddtngton, Han* bury Tracey, esq. R Inn — Unicorn Inn — Crown B 14 ITINERARY OF THE MALMSBURY TO OLD OR AUST PASSAGE, Malmsblry to Eastern Gray .Sherston Lacking ton Enter Gloucester' shire at Acton Turville Cross Hands Inn Old Sodbury Chipping Sodbury Yate Iron Acton Alvaston Rudgevvay Olveston Old Passasfe Inn a 2 H 3 lU 14l 1 15 2i 18 1 19 H 211 4 3 2 26-T 281 2| 31 -- Inn — Cross Hands At Little Sodhury^Wincomhef Henry Houurd Hartley, esq. L. Lms — Ball and Saan, Inn — Aust, or Old Passage- house EVESHAM TO STOW IN THE WOLD. Evesham, cross the Avon River Bengeworth Broadway JEnter Glouceste?- shire c7'o$s Camp- den Down 3tow in tlje Wold 10 16 Spring-hill, £«?7 of Cch y entry Inn — XJnicorn. STOW IN THE WOLD TO WINCHCOMBE. Stow IN TJIEWOLD to Lower Swel Lower Guiting Winchcombe 1 13 P. Snelly esq. IMORETON IN THE MARSH TO CAMPDEN. Mo R ETON to Burton on the Hill Ca«jpdeii Inn — G€or^f> A CORRECT LIST OF THE FAIRS IN GLOUCESTERSHIRE, Barton 'Regis — Sept. '2Q,\Leonard Stanley — Jn\y 20 cloth, sheep, and pigs, Berkley/ — May 11, cattl and pigs. Blakeney — April 23, Nov. 12, cattle, sheep, horses Campden — April 23, July 25, Nov. 3, horses, cows sheep, linen, cloth, and stockings. Cirencester — Easter Tues July 18, cattle, sheep, & horses; Nov. 8, wool, oil and leather. Cheltenham — Second Thur. in Ap. Holy Thursday al sorts of cloth; August 5 lambs. Coleford — June 20, wool ; Nov. 24, cattle & cheese. Dursley — May (5, Dec. 4 cattle and pedlars ware. Fail- ford — May 14, Nov 12, sheep and cattle. Frawpton — February 14, pedlary ware. Gloucaster — April 5, cheese fair; July — , Sept. 28, November — cattle, pigs. horses, cheese. Hampton — Trin. Monday cattle, pigs,horses,cheese. h'on Acton — A p. ?5, Sep. 13. cattle, pigSjhorses.chcesc. ^echlade — Aug. 5, and 10, cattle and toys; Sept. 9.. dieese and cattle. cattle. Lydney — ]\Iay 4, Nov. 8*, horned cattle Little Dean — Whit. Men. Nov. 26, pedlars ware. Marchjii/d — May 24,horn- cd cattle; Oct. — , sheep, horses, cheese. Michael Dean — Eas.Mon, Oct. 10, cattle,sheep,and hoiises. More ton — April 5, Oct. 10, cattle. Neicnham — June 11, Oct. 18, horses and sheep. Neiccnt — Wed. before Eas- ter, Wed. before Whit- Sunday, Aug. 1, Friday after Sep.8,cattle,horses, and cheese. Northleach — Wed. before April, 23, cows & sheep; Wed. before Sept. 29, horses and saiaii ware; third Wed. in May, cheese and cattle. Fai)is-(vick — Whit-Tuesday Sept. 19, cattle, sheep. Sodbnry — May 23, Jun. 21, cattle,cheese, 6: pedlary. Stone-house — May 1, Dec. 29, cattle and cheese. Stowonthe TToW— May 12, horses, cows, and sheep ; (>ct. 24, hops, tS:c. "^druud — May 12, Aug. 21, B % cuttle?, 16 tIST OF cattle, sheep, and pif^s. Tctbury — Ash-Wed. Jul}' 22, cattle, lambs, sheep, and horses. Tcr/;/ces6?/rj/— Mar. 7, May 14, June 22, Sep. 4, Oct. ] 0, cattle, tanned leather, and pedlary, Thornburi/ — East. Monday Aug. 15, Monday before Dec. 21, cattle and pigs. Tockingtou — May 9, Dec. FAtRS. 6, cattle and pedlary. Water leigk — Sept. 19, cat- tle and horses. Wichcare — A pril 5, July 2, oxen and horses. Winchcomb — May 16, July 28, cattle, sheep, horses, Winterburn — June 29, Oc- tober 13, cattle and sheep. Wotton-undei -Ed^e — Se p. 25, cattle and cheese. THE QUARTER SESSIONS For the County of Gloucester, are as follows : The First Week after Epiphany. The First Week, after the Close of Easter. The First Week after the Translation of Thomas-a-Becket, OI" J»iy7- And the First Week after Michaelmas-Day. LIST OF THE PRINCIPAL WORKS TI)at have been Published III illiisf ration of the Topograph!/ and Antiquities of THE COUNTY OF GLOUCESTER. This County lias been more amply illustrated by local Historians than any other. Of the numerous works already before the Public we select the follow- ing : The Ancient and Present State of G!oucest€rshir€f by Sir Robert Atkins, Knt. folio, 1712, second edition, 1-768. The history of this book is curious : it was published by Sir Robert's executors, and most of the coj)ies were burnt by an accidental tire at the house of JMr. Bowyer, printer. Most ot the plates fell into the hands of Mr. Herbert, engraver, who had those re-engraved that were lost, and reprinted the history in 17(58, In this he corrected a few literal errors, but carelessly omitted many others which were noticed in the errata. Great part of this* second edi- tion was also burnt. A New History of Gloucestershire, comprising the Topography, Antiquities, (Curiosities, Produce, Tiade, and Manufactures of the County, &c. &c. Illustrated with a Map of the County, Views of the Gentlemen's Seats, &c. folio, 17 79. This was compiled and pub- lished by Saujuel Rudder, a bookbeller of Cueuces- ter. Historical^ Momimentalj and Genealogical Collec- tions relative to tlie. County «f Gloucester, printed from the Original Papers of the late Ralph Bigland, Esq. folio, 1791, This Work is publishing in num- bers, one volume and ten numbers are now published. A, great part of it was edited by the Reverend James Dallaway, whose notes form the Qiost interesting por* •tion of the work. B 3 A Colkcfion 18 LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL WORKS, &C. A Collection 'of Gloucestershire Antiquities, by Sa- muel Lysons, F. R. S. and F. A. S. folio, 1804. This elegant Work contains 38 pages of Description, and 110 plates, all drawn and etched by the author. An Account of Koman Antiquities, discovered at Woodchester, in the County of Gloucester, by Sa- muel Lysons, F. R. S. and F. A S. London, 1797. Imperial Folio, with 43 plates, mostly coloured, of Tes- selated Pavements, Fragments of Sculpture, Architec- ture, &c. lOl. 10s. The History of the County of Gloucester, compressed and brought down to the year 1803, by the Rev, Tho- mas Rudge, B. D. two volumes, 8vo. 1803. The Au- thor promises another volume on the History and Anti- quities of the city of Gloucester. The History of Gloucestershire, by VV. H. Yate, Esq. and the Rev. D. Fosbrooke, F. S. A. 4to. 1803. This Work is publishing in numbers. The Rural Economy of Gloucestershire, including its Dairy System, &c. by Mr. Marshall; two volumes, 8vo, Second Edition, 179G. The History and Antiquities of Tewkesbury by W. Dyde, Second Edition, 8vo, 179S. The History of the Ancient Town of Cirencester j by S. Rudder ; 8vo. 1790. Second Edition. The History of Cheltenham and its Environs, inclu- ding an Inquiry into the Nature and Properties of the Mineral Waters, &c. and aconcise View of the County of Gloucester ; 8vo. 1803. By H. Ruff, a bookseller of Cheltenham. The History and Antiquities of the city of Gloucester, 8vo. 1781 An Account if the City and Suburbs of Gloucester, 8vo. 1792. The Gloucester New Guide ; containing an account of every thing worthy of observation respecting the City, LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL WORKS, &C. 19 City, &c. and particularly the Cathedral, &c. By the Reverend Mr. Rudge, 1 2mo. 1802. An Address to the Magistrates of the Coiinty of Gloucester, &c. on a motion to consider the Appoint- ment of Otiicers ; and of adopting Regulations for the Government of the New Prisons building within the Count I/. By Sir George Onesipherus Paul, Bart, ovo- 1789. A Tour to Cheltenham Spa ; or Gloucestershire D/.r j)lai/ed ; containing an Account of Cheltenham, in its improved state, &c, by Simeon Mureau, Til. C. (Master of the Ceremonies.) Cheltenham, 12tno. 1788. Third Edition. All Experimental Enquirij concerning the Chelten- ham Waters, &c. By A. Fothergiil, of Bath, M. D. X\ R. S. The History ofSudeli/ Castle, near Winchcomb ; by the Reverend Cooper Willyams, folio ; reprinted m 18mo. 1803. A Treatise on Cheltenham Waters, &c. By Tlionjas Jameson, M. D. 8vb, 1804. A True Relation of the late Expeditio n of Robert, Karl of Essex, for the Relief of Gloucester ; zoith the Description of the Fight at Nezvburt/. London, 1G43, 4to. A Brief and Exact Relation of the most material and remarkable passages, that happened iii the laie zcell- formed, and as valiantli/ d fended Siege laid before the City of Gloucester. Collected by Johiv Domey, Esq. Towne Clerk, who was residerit th^re during the said siege. London, 16 13, 4ro. A Relation of the taking ofCiceter, S,c. on Tkursday, February 2, IG l?, hy tOOtfthc Cavaliers, 4 c\ sent lu a Friend in London, by one zcho nas present at, and same time after the taking of it. Published because of the jnany false reports that were in phruivc concerning that busines?. London, ] 64 2, 4tj.' A True -20 I.rnT OF TOPOGRAPHICAL WORK?, &C . A True Relation of ilic Taking of the Town qfCice- ter, by ihe King's Forces, &c. Loudon, 1(343, 4to. The Tctltioiis of the Inhabitants of Cyrenccater, whose nuines are hcreuafo sul)ioincd, presented to his Majesty at Oxford ; with his Majesty's answer, Lon- don, 1(3-42, 4to. A Candid Enquiry concerning (he Benefactions of the late M}\s. licbecca Pone/ 1, in favour of the town of Cirencester ; by a Native of the place. London, 1765. 8vo. A7i Account of the Beautiful Painted Windows in Fairford Church, Cirencester. 17(35. 12mo The History of the Parish and Abbey of Hayles, pro- posed as a specimen of a new History of tlie County. ToUo, 1(378. The Customes of the Manor of Painswicke, in the County of Gloucester. London, 16C0. Annalia T)ubrensia; upon the Yearly Celebratioh of Mr. Robert Dover's Olimpic Games, upon Cotswold Hills. Written by Michael Drayton, Esq. London, 1636. 4to. " Mr. Dover was an attorney, at Barton on the Heath, in Warwickshire; and being of an active and public spirit, obtained leave of James L to insti- tute these 2;ames, which he conducted in person, habi- ted in a suit of his Majesty's old cloathes. 1 he\ were resorted to by the nobihty and gentry, for sixty miles round, and continued for forty years; ' even,* says Wood^ * 'till the rascally Rebellion was begun by the Presbyterians.' To this book is prefixed a cut, repre- senting the various games, and sports, dancing, and hunting; with a maze, and wooden castle on a hill, and guns tiring; and the great director, Dover, on horse- back.'' — (rough. Some Copies of Original Instruments znd Papers ; collected. Jor the use and benefit of ihe Clergy and Churchwarden'^ of thu Diocae of Gloucester, &c. By Edward LIST OF TOPOGRAPHICAL WOKKS, &C. 21 jfcdvvard Loegin Griffin, L. L. B. Cirencester, 8vo. 1-720. The Laws and Customs of the Miners in the Forest oftkan. 12mo. 1687. A Strange and Wonderful Discoveri/ of Houses un- der Ground^ at Col ton s Field, in Gloucesley-shire, 1685. 4to. An Historical Relation of the Military Government of Gloucester, from the beginning of the Civil IVarrCy t^c. hi/ John Corbet J Preacher of God's Word. Loudon, 1645. 4to. In the Philosophical Transactions, No. 137, p. 931, is an Account of the Iron Works in the Forest of Dean. No. 20, An Account of some Sanative Water's in this County. — No. 461, p. 830. An Examination of the Cheltenham Waters, by C. H. Semtzenberg : and Remarks on it, by C. M. (Cromwell Mortimer). — No. 143, p, 1. A Description and Draught of Fen Park Hole, by Captain Collins. — No. 243, p. 279, An Ac- count of Stones in this County, by Edward Lluyd. In the ArchcEologia, Vol. V. is an Account of two Roman Camps in this county.— In Vol. X. a Descrip- tion, with Prints, of the Church of Queenington, by S. Lysons, Esq. F. S. A. — Vol. XIV. contains Observa- tions on some of the Tombs in the Abbey Church, at Tcwk«sbury ; by T. Lysons, Esq. A Survey of this County, on six sheets, one inch to a mile, by Isaac Taylor, was published in 1777. This was reduced to one sheet, and published by Mr. F'aden, in 1800. Prints, S^-c. Gloucester Cathedral, south-west view. Drawn, and engraved, by J. Bonner, Folio, 1797. Nortii-west view of the Abbey, in 1 732 by Buck. Tlie monument of Edward II. Gravciot, del.C. du Bose, sc. The Ichnogra- phy of the Cathedral, Wal.Merricke, del, J. Harris, sc. Ten i»2 T.IiST OF TOPOCKAPHICAL WORKS, &C. Ten snuiU Views of parts of this Cathedral were Uiawu and engraved by T. Bonner for No. 1, of the jtr'a-spcctive Itinerary. Tlie Cross, at Gloucester; G. \^ertue, sc. 1751, with eiglit Statues at the sides. The Tomb and Effigies of George, Duke of Clarence, and Isabella, his Dutchess, were engraved by S. Wall, 1745. Berkeley, St. Brilvee, Sudeley, and Bcvcrstone CaS' ties, were engraved by Buck. Berkeley Castle, Monuments of the Berkeley Fa- mily, J. Carter, del. Basire, sc. were published by the Society of Antiquaries. Some basso relief heads, &c. at Berkeley Chapel, were drawn and etched by J. Carter, for his Antiquities. Haylts Abbey, south-west View, by Buck. 'rhornbury Castle, south view by Buck. Hi!{lt Meadow, Seat of Lord Viscount Gage, Vit. Brit. \^ol. in. Kine^'s Weston, Seat of Mr. Southwell, Vit. Brit. Vol. L In the Beauties of England and Wales, by Messrs. Brayley and Britton, the Topography of Gloucester i» elegantly illustrated by several fme Engravings. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF GLOUCESTER. BOUNDARIES, SITUATION, AND EXTENT, THE county of Gloucester is bounded on the north-west by Herefordshire, on the east by Ox- fordshhe, and a small part of Berkshire, o«) the south by Wilts, and on tlie west by Somersetshire, tlie Se- vern, or Bristol Channel, and Monmouthshire. It extends in length, from Cliiford Chambers, on the Avon, next Warwickshire, to Clifton, near Bristol, in a south-west direction, about 70 miles, and in breadth, from south-east to north-west, at the widest part, about 40 miles. The figure of the county is that of an ellipsis, nar- row in proportion to its length. Its superficial con- tents are nearly 1,100,000 acres. According to the returns made under the popu- lation act this county, in 1801, contained 37,27(5 inhabited houses, and 187,164 inhabitants. The population of Bristol is not included in this esti- mate. The county derives its name from its principal city, Gloucester ; and was inhabited, previous to the arrival of the Romans, by the Vobuni. Camden imagines they were so called, from the British word JDwf'iiy because they inhabited, for the most part, places that lay low' and sunk imder hills. Of these Dobuni, or, as Dio c^lls them, Bodun, we have very little account in ancient history, beyond what Dio relates of them, that A. Plautius, who was sent by by Claudius proprietor into Britain, received, upon terms, the greatest part of them who had before been subject to the Cutuellani, who occupied the neighbouring county, and placed garrisons among them about the year A. D. 45. When the Saxons became masters of Britain, the Dohiini were lost ; and part of this people, with their neighbours, had the name of Wiccii given them pro- ])ablv 24 ka:vTE, &c. bably from their Jiving round the mouth of the Se* vern, -^vhich is very full of creeks ; the word Wic, in Saxon signifying a river's creek. Mr. Fosbrook, in his history of Gloucestershire, upon this subject s^ays, *' The meaning of the name Huiccii, or Wiccii, has exercised the skill of etymologists : Dr. Thomas follows those who derive the word from Wic, whicl; among other significations, in Saxon, was used to express the creeks, curvatures, or windings of river banks ; but besides that the Severn, in gliding llirough Worcestershire and Gloucestershire, has fewer windings than most other rivers, how unlikey 35 it, that the eastern part of Cotswold Downs, near Blockley and Icconib, should have the nanie of !Mons Wiccissa, W'iccian Hill, from the meanders of a river, which glides at so great a distance from it. Yet so we find it named in a charter, De Oswalde's Lawe, ascribed to King Edgar." A learned writer. Carte, who has sifted the re- mains of British anticjulty with great diligence, pro- posed another conjuncture : he observes that the great forests ' which spread themselves over the greater part of Worcestershire, and run far into the adjacent counties, were in those times useful chiefly for the excellent pannage or mast they afforded for hogs ; whence, as the wealth of the inhabitants consisted in droves of these animals, the province itself might have its name from them ; and from hnk/i, the Bri- tish word for porcus, be denominated Huicca, or in Liltin^Vicci ; and its people Wiccii." Other wri- ters have derived the term from Wiches, or briny wells ; salt being anciently the principal article of traffic in this province. A late writer says, that the v.'ords Imic and wic meant land on some border, and therefore that '*the Wiccii w. re dwellers on border land." The Saxons also called this county Glcauceder- scirc' During the occu])ation of the island by the Ro- mans, ROMAJf ROADS, &rC. 2 J riians, the soiith-e.ist part of Gloucestershire was included in that division d(.-iK>uiinaied b\ them Bri- TANxViA Prima, and the residue of the county Bkitankia Slcunda. Upon ii subsequent divi- sion made by Constanline, the whole' county was included in the province' named Ffavia Ca^sariensis. It is evident " from tiie ruins which have been at various times exoiivated, that thi«f county, from Cirencester to Painsvvick, Bisley, bapperton, VVood- chester, Ully. Kingsente, and other adjoining places, \vas much peopled by the Romans, or romanizcd Britons ; that Cirencester' was the great metropolis, or resort of pleasure and amusement ; while Glou ■ cester, and the hills about the Severn, were the great military positions. The last city, on account of the river, having peculiar advantages with re- spect to commerce." — Foslnvok's Histori/ ofGluuces-' tcnkire. The Ikenild Street, the Krming Street, the Fosse Way, and the Via Julia, are the principal Roman roads passing through this county.' 'fht' ikenild, after crossing Oxford, enters Gloucestershire at East Leacn, and joins the Fosse about a mile north-east of Cirencester. The Erming Street leads from Caerleon in AlonmoiUiishire, and passing through Gloucestershire and Cirencester pursues its course to Cricklade, and from thence to South- ampton. I'he Fosse Way enters the county from Warwickshire, at Leminglon, passes through Mor- ton, tlenmarsh, and Slow, by Burton on the Water, and Noriii Leacii, and crossing the river Sohie at Fosse Bridge, lead-> directly to Cirencester. The Via Julia led trom Bath, across the Severn, into Monmouthsiiire, and is to be traced by Weston Lane to the present horse-road to North Stoke. 1 hen, ascending the hill, it passes under the British post, or N'ortu Stoke Brow, and enters tht viliage of North Stoke. It soon after reaches Bitton, and from thence continues with the present turnpike- C road 50 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. joad as far as St. George's church. From thence, ailei passing Redland Court, it ascends Durdham Downs^ and crosses the turnpike from Shirehampton at th6 very spot where it is joined by the road from the Hot Wells. It* at length enters '^ the great station of Sea 'Mi/fs, or Abone. From Abone, paved re- mains of the road still exist, where it passes a farm- house of Lord de Clitford's ; it then runs through some inclosure?, enters the Shirehampton road near the end of Lord de Clii'ford's grounds, and continu- ing between King's Weston Inn and the mansion- liouse, descends between that and the stables, and passes straight by Madan farm, till it joins the banks of the Severn. Here was a ford into Wales ; and part of the road on the opposite side of the river to Caerwent existed, still paved, a few years ago.'* — Coxc's Tcur in Mourn out Inh ire. In the time of the Saxons, Gloucestershire was part of the IVlercian kingdom, and the Anglo-Saxoii monarchs are said to have had residences at Wlnch- combe and King's Stanley. CLIMATE. The air of this county is, in general, remarkably healthy, although of various temperature. On tl)e Colswold Hills the air is very sharp ; in the vallles it is soft and mild even in winter. RIVERS. There are several large rivers connected with this count} ; the principal of v/hich are, the Se- vern, the Wye, the Frome, or Stroud, and the two Avons. The canals which pass through Glou- cestershire, are distinguished by the names of the Thames and Severn, the Stroudwater, the Berk- ity and tile Hereford and Gloucester. The Severn is prob^'.bly a corruption of Stihrina, the name given by the ilomans to this river ; but the deri- vation Oi Sabrina i:> not known. This river, esteem- ed tlj'e b.tcond connnercial river in Knghmd, rises on ihe tast side of a vast mountain, called Pl\n I^ymn}on, RIVERS. 27 Lymmon, in the south-east part of Montgomery- shire, in Wales; from whence, by a variety of windings, it runs north-east and enters Shropshire, where, being joined by a great number of smaller streams, it runs through that county and Worces- tershire, and enters Gloucestershire at Tewkes- bury, where, being joined by the waters of the Upper Avon, it pursues a south-westerly course through a beautiful and fertile vale, towards Glouces- ter. Near this city it divides into two channels, which soon uniting again, forms the tract of land called Alney Island. " When the Severn has thus united its two branches, it is shortly joined by the various canals from the cloathing districts of Gloucester- shire. It then becomes considerably extended, and swelling into a broad aestury, forms the princi- pal ornament of its expanded vale, no longer creep- ing through the plain in invisible obscurity. The clitf on which the church of Newnham is finely situated, commands its immense semi-circle with admirable effect, while the Cotswold range, ter- minating in the bold elevation of Stinchcombe Hill, bounds the vale to the east, and the undu- lating hills of the Forest of Dean, close in upon it on tiie west, opening into various sweetly pictu- resque glens. The Severn, after this, studded with sails, and gliding between a range of iine pastures and villages grows wider gradually till it receives the Wye, near Chepstow, and the Avon, from So- mersetshire, thus forming the Bristol Channel." . — Skrine's Account of Rivers. The Severn has been a navigable river from time immemorial, and is of sufficient depth for vessels of from 150 to 200 tons burthen nearly up to Glou- cester, The tide flows up the Severn as far as Tewkes- bury, which is near 70 miles from the sea. The flood-tide advances with such impetuosity, that in one swell it sometimes rises near four feet, and In c '2 its 2% GLOUCESTERSHIRE. its contention with the opposhig current of fresit v.ater, occasions what is termed by historians, the liygre (probubly derived from the French words Eau-Giure, water-war) but more commonly called, thii Boar. The Frome or Stroud river rises not far east of Pamswick, aiid running westward falls into the Severn about hve miles south of the city of Glou- cester, at Framilode. The water of this river is re- inavk-ibiy clear, and fixes the colours mixed with it for. dying bioad cloth scarlet, or any grain co- lour, better than any other, for which reason there are many clothiers settled along the banks of the river, for twenty mik^ together, who have erected a va >t number of failing mills upon it. No part of this nver was navigab e prior to the year 1730, when it was made so, by an act of parliament, from Stroud to the Severn. The upper Avon rises in Northamptonshire, and running through Warwickshire enters this county, and divides a small portion of it from Worcester-. shire. It joins tlie. Severn at Tewkesbury. The Wye rises within half a mile of the sourcQ of the Severn, and rmining soutli-east, separates Radnorshire and Brecknockshire, two counties in Wales, from each other ; it then passes through liereforcjsliire, and parting ISIonmoutnshire from Glouceitershire, falls into the Severn near Chep- stow. , ■ The Thames, the most celebrated of British rivers, has ifs somce in this county ; rising at a })iace called the Thames Head, near the village of Ojtes, about two miles south-west of Cirejicester, from whence it pursues a south-east course towards Cricklade in Wiltshire. The junction of the Thames and the Severn be- ^ns at Walbridge near Stroud (at the place wliere tiie Stroud navigation ends) and proceeds to very near Lcciilade, where it joins the river Thames, whicli including RIVE lis, 29 including the branch to Cirencester, is a distance of thirty miles, seven and a half chains." Tl'ie general breadth of the canal is forty-two feet at the top, and thirty feet at the bottom. la many places, where the ground is a dead level, it is considerably wider; the banks and towing paths being made entirely with the soil dug from the canal. The tunne'l at Saperton is nearly two miles and a iialf in length, being lined with mason- ry, and arched over at top, with an inverted arch at the bottom, except at some few places, where the solid rock being scooped out, rendered it unneces- .sary ; the expence of this was about eight guineas per cubic yard. The boats are twelve feet wide, and eigiityfeet long ; when loaded, they draw four feet water ; and will carry seventy tons." The union of the Thames and Sefvern by this canal, opens a communication between the Capital and the ports of Wales, Bristol, and the manufac- turing towns in Gloucestershire, Worcestershire, Warwickshire, and with the internal parts of the kingdom by means of the Oxford and Conventry Canals. The Stroud water canal commences its course at *' Badbrook, attlieedgeof the town of Stroud, passes on to Cains Cross by Ebley, and across the raaia road at Stone ' Cro-^s, and by Stone House near ilycott Mill, and to Lockhain Bridge; then across the river near Whitminster Mill, and goes into the Severn at Framilode, its length being something more than eight miles, and its fall one hundred and two feet.'" The Gloucester and Berkley Canal joins the Severn at a brook called Berkly Pill, opposite the town of Berkley ; from whence, in a strait course, it passes Slimbridge, Frampton, Wheatehhurst (where it intersects tlie Stroud Canal), Hardwick, Uuedgley, and terminates on the south-sid-^ of the c 3 city 30 GLOrCESTERSHlRE. city of Gloucester, making a line of eighteen miles and a quarter. Tiiere is a sliort cut to the town of Berkley. The Plereford and Gloucester Canal commences from the Severn near Gloucester Bridge, and pur- sues its course over Alney Island, over a branch of the Severn to Vineyard Hill, where it crosses the river Leadon, by an 'aqueduct, and running the base of Lassington Hill, passes on to Rudford, and enters a tunnel at Oxenhall, 2170 yards long. It emerges at Boyce, and again crossing the Leadon it socn ait'.-rwards enters Herefordshire, AORTCULTURE. Nature has divided this county into three dis- tricts, viz. the Hl/i district, including the Cots- wold and Stroudwater Hills. The Vu/e, including the entire tract bounded on the east by the Cots- wold Hills, and the river Severn on the west, and th'.:: Forest JJistiici, which is separated from the rest of the county, by the river Severn. The soil and mode of cultivation is different in the different dis- tricts. Upon the Cotmold Hills, which extend in length from Broadway Hill to near Tetbury, thirty miles, and in breadth from Bbdllp Hi,'l to Beiiford, about seventy miles, including an area of nearly i?00,000 acres, the greater part of the soil is what is liere termed stone-brash, a loam intermixed with stones, on a subsoil of calcareous rubble or rock: the average depth of ploughing not much oxceedirig four inches : there is, liowever, some quantity of stiff sour land interspersed on those hills ; many farms and one or two parishes are chiefly of that nature. Near Fairford and Ciren- cester the soil is richer and deeper ; particularly about the former a deep and sandy loam prevails, producing great crops in a favourable time, but apt to burn and parch up in dry seasons ; at which times they likewise labour under great inconve-^ uifclice AGRICULTURE. 31 iilence for want of water, with which the greater part of these lulls is abundantly supplied In the vallies, and where the land is of sufficient staple for permanent meadow and pasture, it is mostly in that state. Sheep- and cow downs arc likewise frequently met with, but the quantity of land thus employed bears but a small proportion to wiiat is occasionally under the plough ; some few parishes on Ihe sides of the hills, however, are an exception to this rule, in whicu perhaps haifthe land is meadow and pasture. In these situations, dairying is mostly followed in preference to gra- zing; the sort of cows cliietly Gloucestershire, fre- quently crossed and improved from other breeds. Most farmers dairy a little for home consumption; and tliough tlie nature of the soil renders sheep the live slock chiefly to be attended to, yet a sufficient qu.antity of cattle generally is intermixed with- them to improve the pastures, and make the most of the keep ; of these however not so many are bred as formerly, Gloucester market a Hording great choice f:om Herefordshire, Wales, and Somei- setshire ; of these the Glamorgan and Somerset ap- pear most eligible as woj-king cattle for the hills, being active in harness, and when turned olf, feed- ing in less time than the larger breed of Hereford- shire. In stall-feeding, hay, cJiaiT, barley-meal, oats and bran, are the articles of food chiefly used. The smaller Welsh breeds of cattle, where grazing is the only object, are frequently bought in winter or early in spring, and fatted in the course of the sim:imer, so as to go off between Michaelmas and Christmas with little or no hay, which in a country y.here it is so scarce and valuable, is a material ob- ject. The native Sheep of these Mils,- in their unim- proved state, was a small, light-carcased, polled ani- mal, bearing a fleece of fine wool of about three pound weigiit. They were cottcd in former times, but 32 CLOUCESTERSIIIRF. but that practice has not been in use for many years, from \viiicli circumstance it is very probable tiiat the assertions of ancient authors that the Span- iards procured their breed of fine-woolled sheep from the CotsMold Hills, are founded in fact, tJiough contradicted by some modern writers. Since that time the inclosures and better manage- ment taking place, and good rams being procured from Warwickshire and other counties, the Cots- wold sheep have considerably improved in w'eight of carcase and quantity of wool, which, though coar- ser than formerly, is in very great esteem as combing wool, being of a good length and mellow quality. The Leicester sheep have been occasionally intro- duced into this district, and, for a cross or two, when chosen with judgment, have been found to improve the breed in shape and disposition to fat- ten, but beyond this, they have greatly reduced the carcase in size, and considerably lessened the wool in quantity and quality; nor is this reduction in size recompensed by their requiring less food, or fatten- ing quicker than the other breeds, qualities which have been so strongly insisted on, and on which the merit of the breed has been chiefly founded ; on tiie contrary experienced graziers in this district, wlio have paid particular attention to them, are convinced, that tliey require full as much time and room, as the larger native breed. In the common practice of the district the wether sheep are fatted off from two to three years old. The average weight of carcases, ewe twenty-two pounds, wether twenty six pounds per quarter ; fleeces, on an average of the whole ilock, run four to tiie tod of twenty-eight pounds. ■^rhis district stands one of the first in the cultiva- tion of Saintfoin ; the usual management has been to sowit with barley after turnips three bushels per acre, to which is generally added al»out live pounds (Of trefoil, whicii generally improves the fir^t year*:* produce. AGRICULTURE. 33 produce, and by occupyinf^ the' soil, prevents the Meeds from getting u head till the saintfoin has established Its roots. Turnips in the usual practice succeed oats ; the stubble is pioiighed in autumn or the beginning of winter, in which state it lies Hill spring seed time is finished, when, being well dragged, it receives two or more ploughings, if necessary, with sufficient harrowing between, and allowing as much time as })ossible between each operation, for tlie seeds of weeds to vegetat-e and be destroyed. The dung of tlie farm-yard is chiefly applied to tins crop. I'hey are sown from the latter end of May' to tlie beginning of August, and once or twice hoed, according to cncumstances, they are eaten off with sheep ; always beginnmg at the lower part of the ground, and workuig up hill ; plenty of hay is allowed, which in this district is necessary for the health of the animal. Turnips, thus expended, greatly enrich the land, and are found of use through the wiiole course of crops. Bur/ty is sown after turnips, oh one plougliing, as soon as the peas and oats aie got into the ground. Grass seeds are either sown before the last time of .the harrows, or after the barley is come up, and before rolling it ; in which case it is usually covered with a bush hurdle : quantity of seed three bushels; average produce twenty four bushels per acre. The Giaf^x-sceda chiefly sown are from two to six pecks ray-grass, and from live to ten pounds trefoil; likewise a small quantity of broad and white Dutch clover ; but the light laud is apt to tire of the broad clover, if often sown in quantity ; and the Dutch is getting out of repute for sheep feed. In the com- mon practice, the seeds are mown for hay the first year, and grazed the following summer, wlien the land is plougiu;d up for wheat. The metiiod. of sowing wheat in tliis district is rather singular. The land is ploughed from two t# 34 . GLOUCESTEHSHIRE. to six weeks before sowing, as circumstances per- mit; if it gets quite grassy it is thought the better. The first rain that falls in August in sutticient quan- tity to thoroughly soak the land, begins tiie seed time ; from thence to the middle of September is thought the best time. The seed is dragged in with heavy drags, working the land till the furrows are well broke, but rather wishing to leave it rough than otherwise; if frequent sliowers fall during the dragging in, so as just to allow the drag to work, it is thought better by most people. Oats. — The wheat stubble is mowed if worth it, or otherwise harrowed, when it becomes brittle enough to break off, and carted to the fold yard ; and the land ploughed, as soon as leisure and the weather will permit, for oats, which are harrowed in as soon as the land will work, in February, about four bushels per acre, average produce 24 bushels. Feas are sown as early in the spring as possible, the sort mostly in use is tiie early burbage ; they are generally ploughed in under furrow, about five bushels per acre, average produce 24 bushels. Winte?- Vetches are, in the practice of a few indivi- duals, sown in quantity to eat off with store sheep ; they are usually sown after wheat, as soon after har- vest as opportunity allows. The sheep are put on them the latter end of May or beginning of June. They are commonly hurdled off in the same manner as turnips ; but if a bulky crop, the better way is to give them through rack hurdh^s, which are made the same as the common five railed ones, only leav- ing the middle rail out, and nailing spars across at proper distances, to admit the sheep to put their heads through. A swarth of vetches being mown across t!ie lands, a sufficient number of these hur- dles, allowing one to five sheep, are set close to it ; at noon tiie shepherd mows another swarth, and throws it to the hurdles, and the same at night ; next mcJrning, a swarth being first mowed, the hur- dles AGRICULTURE. 35 tiles are again set ; tlius moving them once in 24 hours ; by this trifling atlditional trouble, the vet- ches are clean eaten otf, and the land equally bene- fitted. As fast as the lands are cleared they are ploughed and sown with turnips, in which way good crops are often obtained in kind seasons, on land cleared in tolerable time, but it cannot be depended on for the main crop. AVhen a succession is wan- ted, spring vetches are sometimes sowed ; but at the time they are sown labour is more valuable, and besides they are not to be depended upon. I'he Manures used in this district are chiefly those of the fold-yard. 1"he wheat stubble are frequently mown or raked for litter, and cattle kept in suf^"- cient quantity to eat the straw. Soot has been tried on Sainfoin to great advantage, but it is not to be procured in suflicicnt quantity for any considerable practice. Marl has been formerly used in different parts of the district, a pit has been opened of late years in the neighbourhood of North Leach to the great improvement of some adjoining grass grounds. ■ • Watering meadows has long been practised in this district ; there is probably no considerable quantity of land capable of that improvement with- out interfering with the mills, where it is not done. lnip/t)nenfs of Ilusbayidn/. The waggon of this district is described by Mr. Marshall, and by him allowed to be the best in the kingdom for husbandry uses. It^ most striking pe- culiarity is that of having a crpoked side rail, bend- ing archwise over the higiiest wheel, by which means the general bed of the waggon is lowered without lessening the diameter of the wiieels. The carts are very good for hauling out dung, but not so well calculated for road work, and other uses. The ploughs are long in the beam, with one wheel ; they are rather improved in their construe-? tion of late, four horses or four or Ave oxen, the most 30 GLOUCESTERSHIRE ring fallows, generally less. Horses and oxen are both used, the latter in har« ness, and are gaining ground, but not so much as they ought, one team of horses is necessary, for carrying out corn on the rough and hilly roads, but ^vhere more than one team is kept, oxen certainly are in every respect the most eligible. AVhere the farms are large, or not liandy to the homestallj a wooden house, lixed on a sledge, is used lo hold the ox harness, which being drawn to the ground where the beasts are pastured, and as convenient as can be to their work, saves a great deal of time and unne- cessary travelling. The fences are usually dry stone wail-^, good quar- ries of whicli are generally at hand. Quick hedges are sometimes planted, but the attention and time required to rejr them is thought a great objection. Faring and Burning is very mucli practised and approved ; old sainfoin lays and all turf of a sufii- cient texture, are usually broke up in that way. Turnips are often the first crop ; and from the fiesh- riess of the land, and the good effects of the ashes, a large crop is generally obtained. But as the time is too short to get the land in proper tilth for the suc- ceeding crops of barley, seeds, Sac. it is thought a bettt-r method to sow wheat first, on one ploughing ; after whicii, the ashes being stiil fresii in the ground, a crop of turnips may be as safely relied on, and there is plenty of time to get the land in compleat tilth. Gra>sy wheat-stubbles, that w'ill produce a tolerable quantity of ashes, are frequently pared and burnt for turnips witii great success. Coppices are very much wanted in this district, ^sh thrives remarkably well on this soil, and is very useful for hurdles and gates, as we'll as for .fuel, vhich is a very scarce article ; the coppices are ^ere chiefly composed of this wood. It has been found that ash will not grow on thq tops AGRICULTURE. 37 tops of tl-.e hills, though it thrives very well on the Slopes: but tiieie are a great iiiany such situations in tiiis district, which if planted with Scotch iirs, beecli, or any hardy trees that would grow, would add much to the beauty of the country, as well as greaUy improve the soil and climaie of the adjoin- ing land, by the shelter they aiiorded. The chief woodlands are in the parishes of Ched worth, ^Vithinglon, and Dowdeswell, snnaller patclics iu GuitiJig, and one or two ncighbourincr parishes; these are looked on as the natural ])roduction of the soil ; protecU'd and enconrag* d of late years. They are cut at about 18 }ears growth, and produce from 301. to OOl. per acre. Ihere are some cojjpices consisting chiefly of ash, in Ihe parishes of ^Vick an4 Slaughter, that have been planted in modern times ; they are hrst cut at 10 years growth, afterwards generally at about 18 years growth, and produce from 2jl. to 601. per acre. Great attention is h.ere paid to keeping them clean, by hoeing, for two or three years after cutting, till the > -uing shoots are sufficiemiy strong to smother the weeds. Alder coppices are cut ut 12 years growth, and are wortlj from 1^1. to 231. per acre. 'J'/ie St rondu-ater Hills. The soil on the^e hills is chiefly light loam ; not so tenacious as the Cotswolds nor so productive ; therf? is likewise some quantity of sour wet land ; the climate is. nearly similar to the Cotswolds; the pro- perties are various, as is the size of the farms. On the hills, strictly speaking, it is supposed, nine- tenths of the land is arable. On the vallies there are large tracts of good meadow land, which is applied both, fo grazing and the dairy ; but mostly the latter. There is some quantity of land wate; ed, and a great deal more is capable of that improve- ment ; but the niills" interfere greatly. For tlie dairies the cattle are chieily bred and are in general good; in grazing %the stock is mor* generally D bougiit 38 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. |3ougiit in, and are of various breed?, according to their application, the opinion of the grazier, and the goodness of the land. aheep, on the hills, are the chief stock ; the^e are mostly of the horned Wiltshire breed, the fleeces average nine to the tod of 28lbs. Average weight ■when fat, wether 241b. ewe 221 b. per quarter. This breed is liable to a disorder called the gogles, which sometimes occasions very heavy losses. The only method of prevention is, entirely changing the flock once in eight or ten years. The Rotation of Crops, in this district, is similar to that on the Cotswolds. Mr. Turner saw two rollers in this neiglibourhood, on a new construction; one of them v/as procured from the neighbourhood of Marlborough. A com- mon roller of about fourteen inches diameter, sur- rounded with wheels nine inches distant from each other, and three feet in diameter, the spokes being let into the roll. The other is an improvement upon this : a smaller roll is the axis, on which are put solid wheels, about three feet in diameter, and one half inch thick; made alternately of wood and cast iron : the wooden ones are made to fix at any distance; between two of these an iron one is put one-ha!f inch less in diameter, and with room sufli- cient to play up and down, so as to give way to any obstacle, and to press down into the hollows : it like- Avise, by these means, is rendered less liable to^choak up in rough land. For breaking clods, or in light land, where great pressure is wanting, tliese appear to be very effective implements. The land is chiefly in an inclosed state ; but in some instances additional partitions are wanting, the tields being too large for the proportion of the farm for any particular crop, which is attended with great inconveniences ; some open fields remain, but are fast disappearing. luciosures liave been uniformly AGRICULTURE. 30 Uniformly attended with great increase of rent, and increased produce; The Vale district is usually subdivided into the vales of Evesham and the vale of Gloucester, and the vale of Berkley. In the vale of Evesham, which comprehends a great part of Worcestershire, and is included between the Avon and the Cotswold Hills, extending southward to Campden and Morley, the soil varies from sandy loams to clay but most deep and rich. With respv:Ct to climate this district is in general earlier than round Gloucester. The vale of Gloucester in form is *' somewhat semicircular, the river Severn being the chord, and the surrounding hills the arch ; the towns of Glou- cester, Tewkesbury, and Cheltenham forming a tri- angle within its area ; it extends from north to south about fifteen miles, and from east to west about seven or eight ; and includes an area of about 50,000 acres. 1 he soil in general is a deep rich loam, but varies in many places to the light sandy kinds. A great proportion of the land belongs to the church. The whole of the parish of Bamwood, a great part of VVooten and Cranham, and nearly all luitley, with many estates in every parish in and near f Gloucester, belong to the dean and chapter of Gloucester ; and several estates to colleges at Oxfortl : the church has likewise the tithes of several parishes. A great part of this district is still open : where it is inclosed the fences are chiefly formed by hedge rows of elm and willow trees, intermixed with tiie quick. The farms are in general small, and the land equally appropriated into arable, meadow, and pas- ture. The arable land in general is ploughed into very high ridges, so much so that it has been pro- verbially, though hyperbolically, observed that men mounted on horseback and riding in the furrows could not sec each otlier. D 2 The 40 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. The manures used m the vale of Gloucester arc niaile, dung, dung with mould, and slightly calca- reous ciaj. The wheat is universally hoed in, and afterwards kept clean, with the same instrument, and when cut is bound up in sheaves remarkably sm:dl.^ The Cattle of this district are chiefly of that sort called the Gloucestersiiire breed, various other sorts have been lately introduced ; among which tlie most approved appears to be the long-horned iStaflbrdshire breed. The true Gloucestershire breed of hog5 grow to a great size ; they are the tall, lo;ig, white kind. I'he Berkshire breed has been introduced witii much success. The sv/ine market at Gloucester is supposed to be the largest in the kingdom. Iha Dairies in this district are not upon a very extensive scale ; there being seldom more than thirty cows kept at any one. In the vale of Eve- sham they are rather larger. Gloucester Cheese has long been famous ; but the greatest part of what is sold under this appellation has for some years past been tlui product of North Wilts. The principal ch.eese fair of the district is held on the twenty- eighth of September annually at Gloucester ; but the greatest ))roportion of the "dairy produce is pur- chased bv factors upon a continued contract. I'he Vale of Berlvley also called the Lower Vale, extends in length from Aust Cliff to the foot of Mat- son liill, a di'Jitance of twenty miles, in v/iuih not mo-re than four, is bounded on the north-west by tiie Severn, and includes an area of aboiit 50,000 acres. The surface is less regular than that of the Upper Vale, and the margins of the hills, stretch- ing in many places towards the river, being finely covered with beach wood, the scenery is in general very beautifuJ. On tlie north of Berkley the soil is a stiff clay, and less fertile than the r'est of the district, 'i'ne. AGRICULTURE. 4l laro^cst portion of the land is in grass, there not be- ing much more than lOOO- acres of arable land in the distric!;. The cheese made in the Vale of Berkley is of a superior quality, being that kind usually called Double Gloucester. The quantity made is estimated from a thousand to twelve hundred tons annually. 'i he Vale District has from the earliest times been rt'inavkable for its fertility and abundant produce- Wiliiimi of Malmsbury describes it, as ** rich in- corn, productive of fruits, in some parts by tl:e sole favour of nature, in others by the art of cultiva- tion, enticing even the lazy to industry by the prospect of a hundred fold return. You may see the highways clothed with trees bearing apples, not by the grafter's hand, but by the nature of the £^round itself; for the earth of its own accord, rears tiiem up to fruit ; and that excellent in flavour and appearance, maiiy of Avhich, wither not under a year, nor before the new crops are produced to supply their place. Neither has any county in En- glancf more numerous or richer vineyards ; or which yields grapes more abundantly, or of better flavour^; as the wine is but little inferior to that of France in sweetness. The villages are very thick, the churches handsome, and the towns populous and many." The Forat district is principally comprehended by the Forest of Deav, which was formerly valua- ble on account of the goodness and strength of its timber. Leland writes, that *' the soyle of the forest of Dene, for the most part is more fruitful of wood and grass than corne, and yet there is good corne sufticient for th.e inhabitants. The ground is fruitful of iron mines, and divers for- ges be there to make iron." According to Evelyn, in hi» Sylvan, the oaks of this forest were so renewed in Elizabeth's days, that an ambassa- D 3 dor 43 GLOUCESTEHSHIRE. dor was sent froia Spain purpcseiy to procure its destruction. The Forest contains at present nearly 50,000 acres, and extends in length twenty miles, in width aboiit ten. It is divided into six walks, and has foar wardens. The wood, though very much decreased^ still presents a thick and picturesque appearance, growing in the form of an ampitheatre on tlie sides of the surrounding hills. The great road through the forest Is partiv of Roman formation. MINES AND MINERA1.S. Ofmetalic ores the principal found in this covmty are those of iron and lead. Lead oe is found in' various parts of the county, but not in sufficient quantity to defray the expence of working. It is generally found with the lime-stone, and has been met with at Sodbury, Westbury-on-Trim, Yate; Tythcringtonj Deynton, and other places. Iron ores are to be found in great abundance, particularly in the Forest of Dean ; where, in the time of Edward I. there were seventy-two furnaces for melting i;on. At Lydney, and sevferal other places, there are considerable works both for melt- ing and manufacturing iron. The furnaces employed in the " reduction of the ore, are between tv;enly and thirtt feet higli ; they are built of a gritty stone found in the Forest, capa- ble of endiuing a tire intense enough to melt and break down al.nost any other material. The siiape is that of an inverted cone, about seven or eight feet in diameter at the top, to which the approach is by a natural or artilicial bank. The process is begun by liirowing into the furnace some lighted brushwood, then charcoal, with tiie ore and tluxing matters, whicii are usually calcareous and argilla- ceous stones, soiiielimes quar(z aiid flints. These materials are tlirown m alternately, aiid the whole «oy&red witii diaigoal. The blast is. made at a Iiole, about MINES AMD MINERALS, 45 abont three inches diameter, towards the bottom, l)y two large 'beilows, nearly thirty feet long, which are driven by water, and work by alternate move- ments. At an orifice somewhat lower, the dross, which separates from the metal in fusion is let out : quite at the bottom is an opening, occasionally closed with a plug, through which the metal is let iipon a bed of sand, to the length of thirty feet, every twenty-four hours. A large groove is formed in the sand, which serves to convey tlie metal to several gTooves on eacli side_, smaller and shorter. In the former are cast tlie soics, and in the latter the pigs of iron ; both which are carried to the finery and chafery. On the hearth of the Finery is a large charcoal fire, excited by bellows somewhat smaller than those used at the furnaces. The ends of two or three pigs or sows are put into the finery toge- ther, where softening gradually, the metal is stir- red and work, d till it runs into one mass, or lump, which is called lialfHoom. This is taken out (while glowing with heat) it is first submitted to the strokes of sledges, and afterwards of a large weighty hammer, moved by a water-wheel.- By these operations the iron is beaten into a thick sb.ort, square form ; it is then again put into the finery, and worked to the s'lape of a bar, with a square nob at each end. In the chafery it is re- duced into burs of the required shape and size." — Rudge^s Gloucestershire. 7 he ancient mode of obtaining iron, by means of B'i^omaries or Blo&mary Forges, was tedious and im- perfect, so that tlie quantity produced from the ore was very inconsiderable ; the greater part of the iron being left behind. Great quantities of the scoria or cinders formed by this process have been found in large heaps in various parts of the Forests, which for ?. considerable time after the introductioa of furnaces were used as the principal materials for These are now become very scarce, 44 GLOUCF.STERSHIR.E. scarce, -tin d other ores more easy otfiislon have been introduced. The scoria or dross, that rises from the metal in the furnaces now used is called Scrulf] arid consists of a vitreous matter of different quality. — *' The best is used as an ingredient in tiie manu- facture of common g^reen gia>s ; for which pur- pose it is picked out, aoii reduced to a ^me powder, by large stampiiig engines; after which the lighter substances are wasiied away. Sometimes among the scruh, during the process of stamping, are found considerable quantities of granulated iron, and ragged lumps, which are called .^hof, and scrrip inni ; these are separated by the stampers, and car- ried to the forges, to be worked up with the pig iron." - liudi^es G:ouc€Htci%hire. Coal is found in great abundance in the Fores^3 of Dean and Kingswood. In the former, it is scid, there are no less than 120 pits. Great quantities of this useful article is also obtained at Mangots-field, Bitton, and Bucklechurch. It abounds also at S^s- ton, Iron Acton, Wick, and Abston. In the latter parish " the cliffs rise perpendicularly to the height of 200 feet and upwards, and consist of a series of beds of lime-stone and petrosilex, alternating witli each other, exhibiting towards t:ie west a vein of coal, fourteen inches tiiick; and another of lead, both formerly worked, with amass of pretosilex on each side. In the centre of the glen is a bed of lime-stune, nearly six hundred yards broad, lying between two beds of petrosilex, of nearly the s'ame dimensions, all dipping to the north-west, in an angle of sixty feet with the plane of the horizon. In this are imbedded lead ore, spathous iron ore, caulk, or barytes, and a large species of anomia. Tiie division of petrosilex adjoining to this lead on the east combn:c3 again with the lune-rock on the road to Deynton, and at this union becomes a mile- stone. MINES AN-D MINEE.ALS. 4^ stone, or pudding-sloue. By the side of the road near to Bribtol, under the surface of the red soil, are sometimes found a great abundance of geodes, or nodules, containing beautiful quartz crystals, ^vitii calcareous dog-tooth spar." — Kialgc. A very superior kind of Lme-stone is found at Cromhall in great abundance; and from thence south-east, as far as Sodbury ; and south-west, as far as Aust ClifJ". Aust Cli!l "is " composed of tv-»o strata of clay ; the upper of a blue, and the under of a red tinge ; these rest upon a grey lime-stone rock; but embedded iii the lower stratum, is one of Oi/p.suvi, of great depth and extent, continued through the counties of Monmouth and Glamorgan, and siretching as far as Tenby, in Glamorganshire \ its dip is about twenty degrees to the south-east: two veins of sulphate of stronthian occur on this spot."- — liudge. St. Vincent Hocks at Clifton, near the Hot-wells, Bristol, are also composed of lime-stone ; immense quantities of which are annually burnt into lime. Ui)on the Cotswold-hill, andm other parts of the couni} , good free-stone is got. At Dursley is found the tojihus ov pufj -atone, which when first d*ug up, is so soft as to be worked with the greatest facility ; but afterwards, upon exposure to the air, becomes uncommonly Ijard and durable. It is said that the walls of Berkley Castle, which have very iiitle appearance of decay, though at least, 700 years old, were built of this stone. At Cotham, near Bristol^ a curious stone is found, ^vhicil is described by Mr. Budge in the following words : — " 1 he Cotham-stone is a natural but rather scarce production of great curiosit}' : it lies in a de- tached manner within the surface of the ground, ■"i lie upper side is full of nodules and bunches; the prominences on some of the stones resembling the in- terlacings of ivy crossing each other. The blocks are sometimes two feet and a half long, and seven or eiiiht 46 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. eight inches thick^ ajid cut longitudinally, and po^ lished, they exhibit the appearance of landscapes, trees, shrubs, and rivers: in general they are used in tlie justic work of gateways, and similar build- ings." There are a great variety of curious fos.jils found in this county. At Lassington, a village near Glou- cester, are found the astroitic or star-stones, froin their resemblance to a star. Some have supposed them to be parts of a petrihcd marine animal ; but the general and most probable opinion is, that they are a species of coral. They are striated from the center to the circumference, and their radii are sometimes prominent above the surface of the mass ; sometimes they are level with it, and sometimes sunk below it. They are of a greyish colour, and when put into vinegar, will move about for a con- siderable time. At Alderly, near Wootten-undcr-Edge, there are some hills, upon which a great number of stones are to be found, in form of cockle and oys- ter shells. A variety i)f conjectures have been formed concerning these stones : some are of opi- nion that they are a Uisus nalurs ; and others that they are really the shells of lisii, throv.n up here by the sea at the universal deluge. The (Jornua Amnionis and Conchne llugosa?, are remarkably abundant, and of considerable size. CIML AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS. This county is divided into thirty hundreds, and contains one city, and twenty-eight market towns, and about three humlred and twenty parishes. It lies in the province of Canterbury, and is a diocese of itself. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COIJN I'Y OF OLOUCESITR. Jjunuy to JVa-keshnri/. through GloiCi-ester. Between Bristol and Horlield is I^edlaxd, a plea- sant village, containing several good houses; tlie principal TOrOGRAPHICAI, DESCRIPTION. 47 principal one is called Redland-court, an elegant modern structure, built by Mr. Cossens, from tlie designs of Mr. Strachan ; the gardens belonging to it are very iine. About a mile to the left of our road at Filton-hay, is Pen-Pakk, the seat of J, Hanmer, Esq. near which is a remarkable cavern of very extraordinary depth. In our description of the country about Bristol, ii> the survey of bomersetshire, we particularly noticed Pen-Park iiole, and the unfortunate accident that liappened on the 17th March 1/75, to the Rev. Mr. Nevvnham, who suddenly lost his life by falling into it. Three miles from Fllton is Almonds eury, a small village situated at the foot of two remarkable lime- stone rocks, which terminate the line through which the river Boyd flows to the Avon. Lead and copper orcjliave been found in this parish, the former in great plenty. In this parish, round the brow of Knowle- liill, the traces, ot an ancient camp are discoverable, williin the area of which stands the manor-house. The interior of Almondsbury church exhibits some interesiing specimens of Norman architecture. At Alverston there are the remains of another large camp, and a third at Titherington, a neigh- bouring village. Mr. Gougli observes, that '* Ta- citus' account of Ostarius' building forts on the rivers Antona and Sabrina, is strongly illustrated by the camps so thick set in this neighbourhood, ancl many battles must have been fought between our ancestors and them." About three miles north fromEudgway is Tkosn- EURY, an ancient borough and market town, si- tuated "about two miles from th^ Severn, in the lower part of the vale of Gloucester. It is governed Iby a mayor and twelve aldermen, but sends no Biembers to parliament. This place was formerly endowed with many privilege^ but at present is 4-iiietiy entitled to notice, on account of the rem-t, nant •iS GLOUCESTEKSKIRF.. Duiit of an old castle, or rather palace, begun by the Duke of Biickingiiam, in 1511, in the reign of Henry VII. but left unfinished upon his failmg'a vicf-im to the enmity of Cardinal Woisey. Great part of the outward wall is still standing, and in high preservation. The whole exhibits great taste and judgment. The beautiful arched gateway, which is the principal entrance mto the castle, re- mains entire; and is greatly admired for the excel- leiu:e of its workmanship. Over the arch is the fol- lowing mscr ption, extremely well cut in Saxon characters raised above the surface: This gate was begun in tlie yere of our Lorde Gode MCCCCCXt the lltli yer©.(jf the rcync of Kyn^ Henry the \TIIth. by me Edw. due of Buckiul^J^ erile of Ilarforde Stai'forde and Nortluunpto. Upon a label are these words : DORE\E>J :vA\/.\NT^. One part is inhabited, and conunands and exten- ;i.ive view of tiie Severn and South Wales. The parish of Thornbury is twenty miles in cir- cumference. The church is fpacious and hand- some ; it is built m the form of a cachedral, with a lofty tower, ornamented with rich open worked battlements and eight, pinnacies. Tlie clotiung business formerly flourished here, but has long been lost ; and tise town lias now very little trade. According to the returns under the population act, the number of inhabitants appears to amount to 8 j6. About two miles north-west from Thornbury at Oldbury, erroneously supposed by Camden to be the Trujeclus of the itinerary, there are two ancient camps ; in the neighbourhood of which many foun- dations have been dug up. There is a salmon fish- ery at Oldbury, whicii supplies the markets oi' Bath and i3ristol. About eight miles from Thornbary,. three miles ou the left of our road, is J5EIIKLEY. TOPOGRAPHICAL DKSCRIPTIOxV. 45 berkli«:y. pleasantly situated on a branch of the Severn, ia ,the beauth'ul vale of Berkley. ^Jilis is a very anr cient corporated town, under the government of 4 mayor and twelve aldermen. I'he town chiefly consists of one street of mean buildings. 1'he church is a large iiandsome edilice; containing some ele- gant monuments of the Berkley family, 1 he tower, which is new, stands at some distance from it. The town carries on a considerable trade in timber, cojil, malt, and cheese. Tiie weekly market is on Tues- day ; and there is an annual fair on the l4th May. The living of Berkley is in the gift of Earl Berkley ; the parish is the largest in the county. Berkley Castle is a noble gothic structure ; and has been i.or several centuries, the residence of the earls of Berkley. If was begun to be built in the reign of Henry I. and finished in that of Stephen, and was considerably enlarged and repaired m the reign of Henry li. It is situated upon a rising ground in the midst of meadows. It is nearly of a circular form, and the buildings are withiii an ir- regular court, surrounded by a moat. The hall is very large and much admired. The room in which King Edward II. wasconhned is stiil to be seen. The murder of this unfortunate monarch is, perhaps, the most remarkable circumstance in the liistorv of this castle. Thomas, second Lord Berkley, treated his prisoner with civility and kindness ; but he was soon obliged to give up the custody oPhis castle to Maltravers and Gourney, by whom the king was shortly aftei wards murdered in the most horrid manner. "HiscrAe," says Holinshed, " did move many within the castell and town of Berkelie to compassion, plainly liearing lum utter a waiieful noise, as tiie tormentors were about to murder him ; t-o tiiat dyvers being awakened thereby (as they themselve-j confessed) prayed heartilie to God to E receive ' 50 GLOUCESTf:RSniRE. receive his soul, wlien they understood by his crie what the matter ment." In the Civil Wars the castle sufiered considerably, as it did a few years since by an accidental tire. There are some good pictures in the apartments, chieily portraits. There are some landscapes by Wouvermans, Claude, Salvator Rosa, &c. Dr. Jenner, the celebrated discoverer of the vac- cine inoculation, is a native of Berkley. At Slymbridge, a small village, on the left of our road, near Cambridge Inn, situated on the banks of the Severn, there was a family of the surname of Knight, distinguished for many generations by hav- ing live lingers and a thumb on each hand. CaxMbridge is a small village, three miles north from Dursley, on the little river Cam, which runs into the Severn, remarkable for a battle fought be- tween the Danes and Saxons, in the reign of f'ldward the elder, in which tiie former were defeated. About a mile before we reach Gloucester, on the left of our road, is Hempstead Hill, anciently part of the great possessions of Milo, Earl of Hereford, who, in the year 1 1 3d, gave it to the priory of Lan- thony. It now belongs to Samuel Lysons, Esq. Di- rector of the Society of Antiquaries, The church appears to have been erected in the early part of the I4th century. The interior was paved with painted bricks, and there are some remains of richly painted glass. GLOUCESTER, The capitalof the county, is pleasantly situated in a fine vale,on the banks of the Severn. There is very ht- tle doubt of this having been the city of tiie ancient Britons, who called it Caerglow, the Fau' City ; from the beauty of its situation. The British name Caer- glow, was changed by the Romans- i4Uo Clevum, or Glevum; to which the Saxons, afterwards, as was Usual v/ith them, adding Cester, which signifies a castle, or fortihcation, it was called Glcancestcry whence TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 51 whence the present name is immediately derived. The Romans had a station here, to awe the St/ure.;ht, is 8o| feet. The tower, to the battlements, is 198 feet high, and from the battlements to the pinnacles, 24 feet ; from the bottom to the top of the tower is 280 feet. The porch is in length 21 feet, in breadth 18, and in height 25^ feet. liie interior of the cathedral is- extremely grand. The roof is sustained by 28 pillars, extending in two rows, from the west end to the high altar. The pil- lars of the nave are of extraordinary circumference, , and, in a late attempt to Hut'e them, were found iilled up with loose irregular stones. Those in the choir were the same, but lessened and sided with smaller ones, by Abbot Seabrook. The arch of entrance to the cloisters, from the north aisle, is very highly adorned by pillars, buttresses, niches, pinnacles, foliage, and pannels, and the uncommon ornament of twisted pinnacles under the arch. Mr. Dallaway, in his Anecdotes of the Arts, obser- v<>r'that " it is hardly possible to enter the choir, which includes every perfection to which the gothic liad attained during the fifteenth century, without feeling the influence of veneration. in the nave, *' 'I'he arch'd and pondVous roof, By its own weight made stedfast and immoveable. Looking tranquilly." Con GB EVE. immediately engages the attention, and by its heavy simplicity renders the highly-wrought ornaments of , the ciioir more conspicuous and admirable. At the icrmination of the traces under the tower, is the approach to the choir, and above the great arch, is a window between iwo vacant arcTies ricldy sculptured. On the north and south sides are the arches which support the vaulting of the transepts. J^oth these are intersected at the springing by a fly- ing arch with open spandrils, each spanning the space TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. j7 Space of the tower. The brackets are ligiires of angels, with escutcheons of the abbey, Edward II. and the munificent Abbot Sebroke the founder. I'pon the exact point of these intersecting arches, is a pillar forming an impo;;t of the great vaulted roof, which is then divided into sharp lancet arcades, and has an air of incredible lightness. From this part there are live more arcades, divided by clusters of semi-colunms, >'hich reach from the bar to the roof; and the ribs are infinitely intersected and va- riegated with the most elaborate trellis v/ork, com- posed of rosettes ; which although they are so thick- ly studded, are not repeated in a single instance. Over the high altar are angels in full choir, with - every instrument of music practised in. the fifteenth century. On each side are thirty-one stalls of rich tabernacle wi^rk, carved in oak, little inferior in point of execution to the episcopal throne at Exe- ' ter,- or those at Windsor, erected in the reign of Edward IV. and allowed to be some of the finest pieces of Gothic carving in England. " The two further arcades dilate about a yard from the right line, instead of forming a section of a hexagon, and are connected with the great east window, which is enibowed in a slight degree, and occupies tlie v/hole space of the end of the choir." AVe have already given the dimensions of this win- dow, which is supposed to be larger than those of any other in England. " The arch has three chief divisions or muUions, terminating eliptically, the middle of which includes seven tiers of stained glass, now so extremely decayed and mutilated as to appear like the tissue of a carpet." . The present altar-piece is of the Corinthian order, and injudiciously placed so as to hide the rich trace- ry of the original high altar, which can only be seen froyi the side galleries of the choir. *' The pavement before the altar is composed of painted bricks, representing; the devices of Edward 11. ■^S GLOUCESTERSHIRE. II. of the Clares, and of De Spencers, earls of Glou- cester, and Abbot Sebroke ; these are imagined to have been prepared for the kiln by the monks, who have displayed ingenuity, taste, and accuracy, in tlif scroles, rebuses, and armorial bearings." " 'I'he passages and oratories by which the choir is surrounded, are all of Saxon, or at least of early Nor- man architecture. The choir is constructed within them ; the side walls, and low circular pillars, have been reduced, and the whole lined with facings of elegant pannels. These are placed within arcades of semi-mullions, resembling windows, Mhich are open to the choir, from the galleries before men- tioned. During the grand ceremonies of the church, tlie females of superior rank surveyed them from above." — DaUauar/s Anecdotes, ^x. The whispering gallery is ver}' remarkable. It is a long alley from one sich.^ of the choir to the other, built circular, extending in length 84 feet. It is said, that a person's voice, although speaking ever so low, may be heard from one side to the other. In the" gallery of the south transept, is a curious ancient painting of the Last Judgment, discovered some years ago betv.een the wainscotting in the nave of the church. It is supposed to have been originally an altar-piece, concealed at the time of tije Reformation. 'ihe interior of the Virgin Mary's chapel is ex- tremely beautiful ; but the efiect is much diminish- ed by the present altar-piece, which docs not at all suit its situation. The east window is most beau- tifully painted in the most brilliant colours, repre- senting our Saviour surrounded by kings, bishops, and abbots. There are thirty-seven ligurcs all in different attitudes. Tlie entrance into the chapel is fronted by an elegant ai>d liighly-ornamented screen ; behind which is an oratory or chapel jjartieularly interest- ing en account of the beauty of the architecture. Among TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. b9 Among the more remarkable monuments in this cathedral, the tomb of Edward It. erected by his son and successor, near the altar claims the first notice. It is supposed to be the most ancient piece of sculpture in England, which exiiibits such per- fection of art. A ligure of the monarch, regally robed and crowned, lies upon the tomb, under a modern canopy, consisting of three arches of two •stories, interlaid with minute tabernacle work. Two angels support tiie head. In the right hand is a sceptre, the left supports a globe : on the side of the tomb there are three arched niches and four smaller ones, formerly containing statues ; on the spandrils of the former are six sliields. The mul- titude of religious votaries who flocked to offer at the tomb of the murdered king was so great, as liardly to be contained within the town ; and the ab- bey register asserts, that if all the oblations had been expended on the church, a new one might have been built from the ground. Between the north aisle and the choir is the mo- nument, erected by Abbot Parker, to the memory of King Osric, witii the following inscription on the wall above : *' Osficus ilex, primus rundaturhuj us monasteril 681." In a chapel nearly opposite, is a figure carved irj " Irish Oakc," ancl inclosed in a wire lattice, sup- posed to represent Robert Curthoise, duke of Nor- Hiandy, and eldest son of William the Connijeror, In the south aisle is an ancient tomb, said to be that of Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford, who died in 13t)7; and his lady. Mr. Gough, however, observes, that '' it does not suit any earl of Here- ford that we knew, unless we suppose it to liavc been removed thither, at tne Dissolution, from the adjoining monastery of Lanthony, where so many of that noble family were buried ; and this, from the form and style of tlie arch and its niches, does not seem unlikely." Among t'O GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Among the more modern monmuents, one erect-, eel to the memory of Alderman Biackleach and hh wife, dated 1630, is intitled to particular notice. The iigures of the alderman and his lady, in white marble, lie on the tomb; and are accurate copies Of the portraits of Vandyck : tliey were certainly executed by a skilful artist. There are many other memorials of the inter- ment of prelates, abbots, and distinguished persons, ancient and modern, distributed through this edi- fice, highly deserving the notice of the curious \isitor; bui too numerous to be detailed in this work. ^, The great cloisters are exquisitely beautiful ; and are in the sty-le of the Chapel of King's College, Cambridge, The sides and roof are profusely em- bellished, and the windows are filled with mui- lions and tracery. '•' On the north side of the cloisters are several neat ]avatorif;s near the site of the refectory ; which was the only part of the building belonging to the ca- thedral demolished by the republicans. These la- vatories consist of eight arcades ; and opposite to them is the sudatory, or place where the napkins were hung, consisting of two arcades. On the south side are twenty distinct places, or seats, where, it is said, that the monks used to sit and write before the invention of printing." A door through the east walk of the cloisters leads to the College I^ibrary; contained in a roomi formerly the abbey chapter-house, but appropriated to the present purpose by Sir Matthew Hale and others in the reign of Queen Mary. Tlie late wor- thy DcanTucker very much imjTovcd the collection of books by a lib. ral be(]uest oi many vej-y valuable. a'iiere are six parish churches in Gloucester, which are all ancient structures, and deserving the notice of the anticjuaty. Near the church of baint Mary 'da Crypt, are the remains cf a monastery of black " ■ ' ■ friars, TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOX. fi'\ friars, founded about the year l'2o[), by Henry KK aiul Stephen Karl of Ilaineshall. A considerable part of the friar's church, now converted into tene- ments, is yet standing. Besides tiie churches for the established religion, there are places of \vorship for dissenters and ^. It was opened in the year 17 -j^, since when, tipwards of 2'J,000 persons have received the benelits .->: tJie ch.arity. i he House of Industry wss establislied in theyeav ' V 17U3, 62 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. 1 703, under the management of 24 governors, who have full powt r to oblige the able to work, both by rewards and punisliments. The chief employment is making pins. I'hose who execute more than the proportion of work allotted to them, have the sur- plus profits for their own use. The County Gaol, as we have already mentioned, has been lately built (in the year 1791) on the site of the ancient Castle of Gloucester. It consists of three divisions, viz. the Penitentiary House, the Bride- well, and the Sheriff's Prison; which have all their distinct and appropriate regulations. The gaol con- tains 203 separate celis ; 164 for sleep, and 39 for employment. During the day, the prisoners are al- lowed, at stated hours, to enjoy the fresh air, in a court-yard, 210 feet in length, and 57 broad, with a colionade at each end, to shelter them in case of bad V cat her. The city of Gloucester derives its chief trade from the navigation of the Severn, froni the hemp and iiax-dressing business, and from the pin manufac- ture; the latter being carried on here to a g'eater extent than at any other place in England. It ap- pears to have been introduced into this city by John Tilsley, in the year l62(i. This diminutive but use- ful article, passes through the hands of 25 person?, from tlie state of rough brass wire, before it assumes the form of a perfect pin. After the wire is reduced to the proper size, it is cut into portions six inches in length, and then to the size of the pin. Each pin is pointed by being sharpened on a grinding-stone, turned by awheel. The liead-apinnini^, as it is tech- nically called, *' is accomplislred by means of a wliee!, which, with astonishing rapidity, winds the ■ h-e round a small rod; this, when drawn out^ i aves a hollow tube between the circumvolutions: everv two circumvolutions, or- turns being cut oft bv shears, forms one head. The heads are then dis- ■.''''.)'^.f-d to children, who, with great dexterity, by the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 63 the assistance of a hammer and anvil, worked by the foot, fix the head in its proper place. The pins thus formed are boiled in a copper, containing a solu- tion of block tin pulverized, and the lees of port; by this process they lose their yellow brassy colour, and assume the appearance of silver or tin." For the better regulating the trade of the city the principal tradesmen are associated into twelv. com- panies, whose masters attend the ma\or in their guwns on all public occasions. The municipal governnient of the city is, by a charter granted by Charles II. vested in a mayor., high steward, recorder, twelve aldermen, (out of whom the mayor is annually chosen) a town clerk, two sheriffs, common council, treasurer, chamber- lain, sword-bearer, and otlier inferior officers. According to Sir Robert Airkyn's History of Glou- cestershire, this city was incorporated by Henry HI. when he was crowned there. It was then governed by a mayor, aldermen, &c. But the inhabitants resigning their charter in 1672 to Charles II. he granted them another in the twenty-fourth year of liis reign by which the city and county of the city are governed. itie public business of the city is transacted in the Tholsei/, a building erected about the latter end of the reign of George II. The Town-hall, called the Booth Hull, was an ancient timber buildiirg, which was rebuilt in the year 1606. It contains within, two ranges of timber pillars, apparently of the time of Queen Elizabeth, Gloucester has sent representatives to parliament from the 23rd. of Edward I. the right of election is in the inhabitants and freemen, and the number of voters about 3000. The market days are on Wednesdays and Satur- days, and are plentifully supplied with all sorts of })rovisions. The principal supply of fish is from London and Bristol, by land carriage, but tlieSeverrt F 2 furoishes *^\ GLOUCESTERSHIRF. funiiihes salmon, chad, and lampreys, Ihere are four large annual fairs, viz. on April the 5th, July tho- .HJi, September the 28th and :^'yth, and jNovem- ber the Jc-in. ihere is a Custom-house at Gloucester, where, tliough few foreign entries are made, considerable business is done in entering coasters. The present oflicersof the customs aie a collector, comptroller, and surveyor. According to the returns mider the population act, the number of inhabitants of the city and suburbs of Gloucester amounted to 8,765. On the north-west side of Gloucester, in the river Severn, is tl.e hlcnid o/Alnev, a small tract of land, formed by the seperation of the river into tv/o channt-ls. 'i his spot is famous on account of its liavingbeen the scene of the single combat between Edmund Ironside and Canute the Dane; when after a doubtful contest, it was agreed to divide England between them. in the southern suburbs of Gloucester is Lan- IHONY, so called from a priory of Austin canons, founded in the year 11. 5G, by Milo, Earl of Here- ford, for the monks driven from an abbey of that name in Monmouthshire. Some of the Bohinm, his successors, were buried here. Its estimated value, at the Dissolution, was 7481. Os. 11| per annum. 'i'Jiis house was at hr^t only intended as a tempo- rary residence or cell to the other, till more settled limes. Ikit tju* monks afterwards could not be pre- vaded upon to return to their old abode, so that the new house dedicated to St. Mary, became superior to the mother church, dedicatedto St. John the Bap- tist. The shell of the whole cjuadrangle remains, and the gate, with the royal and Bohun arms; part is converted into a farni-house and offices. 'J he present proprietor is the Duke of Norfolk. "' In digging the Berkeley Canal, the foundations of tlie old church were discovered, and some bodies disturbed; TOPOGRAPHICAL DF^'CRIPTrO.V. iJ J disturbed ; but no stones appeared, which could ascertain, by inscription, the names or dates of any qfthem. Several coins aiso of the lower empire Avere found." About three miles bcf^jre we reach Tewkesbury, on thelefi of our road, is Deerhurst, thus describes! by Leland : " Deirhurst in Gloucestershire stand- eth as Severn River cometh down in Icvva ripa, a mile belov/Theokesbyri. The site of the town, a? it now is, is in a nianer of a medow, so that when Severn much riseth the water cometh ahnost about the town. It is supposed that it was of old lime less subject to v/aters, and that iht bottom of Severn, then deeper without choaking of sands did at flouds ieste hurt. It is now but a poor vilh>ge, and the lordship longed of late partly to the abbot of Theokes- byri, such part as "W est minster had m'us longing to Pershore Abbey till William the Conqueror gave it away. Deirhurst Abbey had the residue afore that the house of Deirhurst was alienated from tlie mo- nasterie of St. Dionis by Paris, to which it was a cell, and one Hugo Magason, a monk of St. Dionis was the last prior alien there in King Edward IV's days, and about that time it was dissolved and most of the landes of it given to Foderingey, and Eton College, as it is said, had some title after sute betwix the colleges and the abbey of Theokesbyri, debatyngs was, and aftf^r long tract a final end made in Henry Vllth's days, that the priory of Gold- eliffe, longing then newly to Theokesbyri, should go with the lands to' Foderingy College and Deirhurst unto Theokesbyri. Bede "maketh mention that in his time there was a notable abbey at Deirhurst. It was destroyed by the Danes. Werstanus fled then as it is said to Malverne. The French order was an erection since the Conquest. The old priory stoode est from the Severne a bow shottc and north of the towne. There remaynes yet diverse namtr s of the stretes, as Fischar Street and others : but the F 3 buiiding& C6 GLOTJCESTERSIimE. buildings of them be gone. There be yet two fairs kept one at each day in inventione and exaltationc crucis. Tliei e is a parke betwixt the old plot of Holme Caslle and it, but it longed to Holme the Erles of Gloucester's house, andnotto it. There is a fair man er place of timber and stone in this Tlieokesb}ri Parke wiier the Lord Edward Spensar !ay,and la.te my lady," It appears from an inscriptjon dug up in an orchard in the vicinity that Oddo Duke of Mercia was the founder of the monastery here. At the Dis- solution it was given to ^^'illiam Throckmorton ; bvit the site of it now belongs to the Earl of Co- A'enlry, whose eldest son takes the title of Deer- hur,->t"froui it ever since the year 1697. TEWKESfiUUY, Is a handsome and populous town, about ten mlk-s from Gloucester, situated in the vale of Kvt iham, en the banks of the Avon, near its con- fluence with the river Severn. The town consists of three principal streets, besides several lanes and alley.-. '^I'he High-Street is of great length, very sp; ous and elegant, and leads from the centre of tilt: lown towards Worcester ; Church-Street, which is little inferic" i ^eauty or extent, lies towards the (rloucester ai^ii Cheltenham roads ; and Bartoa-' Street, which is the third, p^iints towards Evesham. The liouses are chiefly of brick ; stone being a scarce i-iaterial in this vicinity. Most o^' the old wooden habitations have been pulled down, and modern edifices erected in their room ; but some s])ecimens of the ancient architecture still remain. According to an uniform tradition, this town derives its name from Theocus, a recluse, who lived ;il,)out the end of the seventh century, and had a chapel on the banks ofthe S.evern, near this place. \nd it aj)p<>ars by an ancient inscription, discovered ton." Tewkesbury is an ancient borough, governed by twenty-four ])r!ncipal burgesses, wlio (with twenty- four assistant?;) iiave an int-ernal government or constitution, independent of the justices for the county. From these are annually elected, two bailiits and four justices, who, with the recorder,' are the ruling magistrates of this corporation. It was hrst incorporated by charter, 17th of Elizabeth, by the name of the bailiffs, burgesses, and community, of the borough of Tewkesbury ; ' and King James I. in the seventh year of his reign, granted ihcm other charters, which were surren- dered under the common seal of the corporation, to King James II who re-mcorporated them the second year of his reign, by the name of mayor, aldermen, and common council, but there were no mayor or officers clioscn l)y virtue of the new char- ter ; and tlie government, of the town, as a corpora- tion, totaiiy ceased till tlie tl.ivtcenth year of King "William liJ. when the present charter was obtained. Tev.kesbury sends two members to parliament, who are chosen by the freemen and proprietors of freehold houses, the number of voters amounting to about live hundred. I'hc l>aiiirfs are the returning officers. The Town Hall was finished in }788. The ground ihior is chiefly appropriated for a hall, where t!ie {juarter sessions are held. The principal story consists of a handsoiiie banc^iietiug or ball rooin, of large dimensions, oinaniented with a portrait of the founder, j)ain(ed by Sir William Beechey, Knight; and of a drawing room used as a council chamber v'here th<.' '-oiporation meet. Atii'^iaing the liall, is the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION'. 75 the town-clerk's office, in which the pubUc business of the borough is transacted. Tewkesbury was formerly famous for its manufac- tures. It had cnce a considerable share in the clothing business, but that trade has long since been lost. It was likewise remarkable for its mus- tard balls ; which being very pungent, have occa- sioned this proverb, applied to a sharp fellow. He looks like Teakcsbufi/ mustard ; and Shalvcspeare, speaking of one with a sad, severe countenance, uses the simile, an thick an Teickeahury nm^lard. Tlie chief manufacture at present, is stocking frame ■work, knitting, particularlv cotton ; but, it like- wise carries on a considerable trade in malting, and has some nailing business. Here are two weekly markets, on Wednesday and Saturday, for pigs, sheep, grain, poultry, anci butcher's meat ; and seven annual fairs, viz. the se- cond Monday in March (heretofore the seventh of the same month) — iirst Wednesday in April, O. S. — May 14— June 22— September 4— October 10— and, the first Wednesday in December, O. S. for cattle and pedlary. Beside these there are two statute fairs, called Mops, for hiring the men and women servants, the Wednesday before old Michaelmas day, and the Wednesday after. *' The markets of Tewkesbury were formerly held under an open part of the old town-hail ; but that edilicc being removed, a commodious market place has been lately erected, at the' upper end of the Church-street, at the joint cxpence of twenty subscribers ; to whom (in consideration of their having erected such building) a lease has been granted, by the corporation, of the tolls for stallage, for the term of ninety-nine years, at the end of which term, the building and all the profits of the market are to revert to the corporation. This market is well frequented, and is extremely veil supplied with all the necessaries of life. G 2 The 76 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. The House of industry is u large brick building, well adapted for its destination; situated on liolmci Hill, near the entrance of tlie town from Glouces- ter and Cheltcaham. Tiie Free-Grainniar Schooi stands contiguous to the north end of the Abbey Church, and consists only of one apartment. In the charter, granted to this borough, by Ring William, it is called tlit! School of VVilliam b'errers, on account of his hav- ing been a principal benefactor to it. 'Hie bailiffs, justices, chamberlain, and town-clerk, are the go- venors for the time being. — Di/de\i History, t^c- The whole parish of Tewkesbury is about six miles in circumference. It contains the tsvo ham- lets of the My the and SouthwicL "^The word Mythe seems clearly to be derived from a greek word, which remotely signilies a stu- tio)K ^rhe eminence wliich goes undv:;r the deno- mination of the Mythe, is formed by nature for jl military station, being diilicult of access in every part except the north. The Severn and the Avon, which flow at its base, and meet each other iii the valley, add to its security ; and, in ancient times, it was no doubt a strong position for an army. 'I'he Romans fretjuenlly adopted the terms of the Greeks ; and the very name which the j)lace now bears decides it to luive boeu formerly a Uouuii military station. On the south west side of the Mythe, there is a Tumulus, the summit of whicli commands beautiful iind extensive prospects: its front is a vi.'ry abrupt precipice, at the foot of wliich runs the Severn, whose windings adtl a richness to the variegated surrounding landscapes. Wiien their present Ma- jesties and the Princiesses resided at Cheltenhan\, in the year 17l-;s, this spot liad the honour of several royal visits. It used to be called by the name of tht Mtfihc Tulr, but it is now apily changed to that oilloi/al Hill. The TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIO.V. 77 The Mythe is situated about lialf a mile north of Tewkesbury, and is ornamented by the seats, ot' ^Richard Jackson, William Buckle, and 'i horn as Porter, Esqrs. These command exceedingly rich and wide extended prospects, in which Tewkes- bury, the Severn, with the Avon, and a pleasing vaj-iety of hills and vales, form the principal ob- jects of attraction. Southvvick is briefly mentioned in the extract from Doomsday-Rook, at the beginning of the ac- , count of the manor of Tewkesbury/' — Dj/dts Hist. The Lodge, in this hamlet_, the seat of Col. Wall, is charmingly situated on a lefty eminence, rising by a gentle aclivity, on the banks of the Severn, and about a mile south-west of the town. The views from this spot are very picturesque ; the eye commanding a spacious tract of land, enriched by a diversity of very beautiful scenery. This situa- tion formerly constituted Tewkesbury Park, as it appears from Leland, in the extract given above respecting Deerhurst. We find nothing particularly interesting in the earlier periods of the history ot Tewkesbury. The Danes committed some ravages here, but to what extent has not been handed down. During the time of the celebrated llobert Earl of Gloucester,, (anno 1139) the town was taken and pillaged by Walleran de Beaumont ; but tlie abbey was spared. The most remarkable occurrence in the history of this place is the bloody battle fought on the fourth of May, 1471, between tbe rival houses of York and Lancaster, by which the hopes of the latter were entirely destroyed, and the crown secured to Edward I. Holinshed, the father of English history, and whose works are very rare, gives tlie most cor- rect account of this important event, which we shall extract for the information of our readers in his own words, notwithstanding the antiquity of liis language. G 3. *' Queene 7S GLOUCESTERSHIRE, " Quecne olargaix't and hir sonne prince Ed- ward, with the other that landed at Weimouth, went from thence to uii abhi-ie neere bv called Ceerne. Thitiier came vnto them l-Mnuind Duke of Summerset, and Thomas Courtnie Karlc of De- \ionshire, with otliurs, and welcommed them into }Migland, comforting the queene in the best mam-r they could, and v. died hir not to despaire of good successe. '''The presence of these noble men greatlie comforted hir, and relieved hir of tiie sorrovves that in manor ouerwhelmed hir pensiue hoart : for she doubted sore the end of all these proceedings, the wl)ich they concluded to follow upon tlie ad- uanccment of liir and hirs. Spcciallie it misguae Jiir that some euil should chance to hir sonue prince Edward, for shee greatlie weid not of hir ovvne perile (as she iiirself coniessed) and therefore she would gladlie haue had them either to have deft-j- red tlie battel! till a niore convenient time : or else that hir sonne n^ight Jiaue been conueied into France againe, there to haue remained in saftie, till the chance of the next battell were tried : but i battel} ; and therefore were turned aside and gone to Bristow, where they were receiued, releeued, and well refreslied by such as fauored their cause, as wA] with vitteils, men, and monie, as good store of artillerie. Wherevpon they were so encouraged, that the Tluirsdaie after they tooke the lu-lde againe, purposing to giue king Edward battell indeed ; and for the same in- tent had seat tiieir foieriders to a towne, distant from Bristow nine miles, called Sudburie, appoint- ing a ground for their held, a mile from the same towne, toward the king's campe, called Sudburie Hilh " The kii3 ynto a village called Chiltenham, like a five miles distant from Teukesburie, where he had certaine knowledge that his enemies were already come to Tuekesburie^ and were encamped tliere, purposing to abide him in that place, and to deliver him bat- tel!. King Edward thereupon made no long delaie but tooke a little refection himselfe and caused his people to doo the like, with such prouision of vittels as he had appointed to be conueied foorth with him for the relief of himselfe and his armie. This doone he set forward towards his enimie, and lodged that night in a field not past three miles distant from them. " On the morrow being Saturdaie, and fourth of Male, he drew towards his enimies, and marshalled his armie, diuided into three battells in this sort. He put his brother the duke of Gloucester in the fore ward, and himselfe in tlie m.iddle v.ard, the Lord marques, and the Lord Hastings led the rere-ward. Heerewith he approched the enimies campe which was right hard to be a'^sailed, by reasr^n of the deepe ditches, hedges, trees, bushes, and cumber- some lanes, wherewith the same was fenced, both a front, and on the sides, so as the king could not well approch them to anie aduantage : and to be better in readinesse to beat backc the king's power, when he should come to assault them, they were embattled in this order. "The Duke of Summerset, and his brother the Lord Join- of Summerset led the fore ward. The middle ward was governv^d by the prince, vnder the conduct of the Lord Saint John, and the Lord Wenlocke (whome King Edward 'lad adiianced to the degree of a baron.) The rere ward was appoint- ed to the rule of the Earle of Deuonshire. Thus may yee perceive that King Edward was put to his shifts, how (to anie aduantage) to assault his enimies. Neverthelesse, he being well furnished with artille- lic, the same was aptlie lodged to annoie the enni- mics. S4 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. niies, that they receiued great damai^e thereby ; and the Duke of Glocestcr, who Licked no policit-, galled them i^reuouslie with the shot of iirrow.-> : and they rewarded their aduersarics home again^i with like paiment, both with shot of arrowes, and great artillerie, although they had not the like plen- tie of guns as the king had. The passages were so cumbersome, that it was not possible to como vpon anie euen hand, to ioine at hand-bluwes. '*'rhe Duke of G'jcester upon a })olitike purpose (as some have written) reculed backe with ail his campanie, whicli when the Duke of Summerset per- ceiued either moued therewith, or else because he was too sore annoied with the shot in that place where he and liis foreward stood, like a knight more couragious than circumspect, came out of his strength with his whole battel, and aduanced him- self somewliat aside, slips the king voward, and by certaine passages aforehand, and for that puipose provided, (to the kings part although unknown) he passed a laneand came inlo a faire open close, right before tlic king, where he was embattelled, not doubting but the prince and Lord AVenlocke, with the middle-ward, had followed just at his backe* But whether the Lord W'enlocke dissembled the matter for King I'xl ward's sake, or whether his hart served him not, still he- stood, and gaue the lookj ing on. **'rhe king (or as others have) the Duke of Glo- cestcr, taking the aduantage that he adventcred for^ turned againe face to face vnto the Duke of Sum- merset his battell, and winning the hedge and ditch of him, entered the close, and with great violence put him and his people vp towards the hill from whence they were descended. Heere is to be no ted, that when the king was come before his eni- mics, yet he gave the on'^et, he perceived that upon the right hand of their campe tliere was a parke, and much store of wood growing therein ; and TOrOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIONT. 85 and doubting leasl his aduersanes had laid an am- bush within that wood, he chose foorth ot" his com- panies two hundred speares, commanding them to keep a stale, like 'a quarter of a mile trom the held, , to attend upon thai corner of the wood out of the which tlie ambush, if anie were, was to issue, and to encounter with them as occasion serued : but if they perceiued that there was no ambush at all, then to imploie tlieir service as they should see it expedient and behonefuli for the time. " This politike prouission for danger that might have endued (although there was none that waie foorth) serued vet belore the end of the battell, to great good purpose. For when those speares per- fectlie understood that there was no ambush wiihin the wood and uithall saw convenient time to em- ploie themselves, they came and brake with full ran- dom vpon the Duke of Summerset and his voward a flanke, in so violent wise vpon the sudden, that where they had before inough to doo with whom they were lirst matched, now with this new charge given on them by those two hundred speares, they were not a little dismaied, and to conclude so discouraged, that streightwaie they tooke them to flight. Some lied into the parke, other into the meadow there at hand, some into the lanes, and some hid them in ditches, each one making what «hift he could, by the which he hoped best to es- cape: but many nevertheless were beaten downe, elainc, and taken prisoners. *''l'lie Duke of Summerset seeing this unfortu- nate chance, as some write, turned to the middle- ward, and there finding the Lord Wenlocke stand- ing still, after he had reuiled him, and called him traitor, with his dx he stroke out his brains out of his head. The Duke of Gloccster pursuing after them that fled with the Duke of Summerset to their campe, where the rest of their armie stood, entred the trench, and after him the king where he bare 11 himselfe 86 GLOUC ESTERS MIRE. himselfe so knightlie, that tlicrevpon the queens part went to wracke, and was put to liight ; the king and other falling in the chase after them, so that manie were siaine, but especiallie at a mill in a meadow fast by the tovvne a great sort were drown- ed, many ran towards the towne, some to the church, and diuerse to the abbeie, and other to other places, where they best thought to save themselves. ''In the winning of the campe, such as stood to it were slaine out of hand. Prince Edward was taken as he tied towards the towne, by Sir Richard Crofts, and kept close. In the iield and chase were slaine, the Lord John of Summerset, called Marcjuesse Dorset, '1 iiomas Courtenaie h^arle of Deuonshire, Sir John Delues, Sir Edward Hampden, Sir Robert Whittingham, and Sir John Eeukener, with tliree thousand others. After the field v.as ended pro- clamation was made, tliat whosoeuer could bring foorth Prince Edward alive or dead, should have an annuitie or a hundred pounds during his life, and* the princes life to be saued, if he were brought foorth aliuc. Sir Richard Crofts, notiiing mistrust- ing the king's promise, brought foorth his prisoner Prince Edward, beiug a faire and Avell proportioned young gentleman ; v. hom when King Edward had \vell aduised, he demanded of him, how he durst so prcsumptuouslie enter into his reahne with banner displaied. " Whereunto the prince boldie answered, saieng ; to recouermy father's kingdome and heritage, from his father and' grandfather to Iiim, an from him after him to me lineallie on behalf of the king, and fortiried it alter the siege of Glocester. Bui before tiiat siege ; the king's f •.ces under Sir Mathew C arevv, were possessed of 'i ewkesbury, which they quitted on the tirst news of the Welsh army being' made prisoners near Glocester, and in less than twelve iiours the town of Tewkesbury was reposses- sed by the parliament's forces, who immediately received an alarm, tiiat the former forces were re- turned with a greater power : 'I'was a gallant bri- gade of horse, commanded by Lord Giandisou, which TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 89 which came from Cheltenham. Captain Fiennes, with his party, had certainly been surprised by tiiem, but for a ridiculous acciden*. Lord Grandison, meeting with a man going from the town about a mile otY, questioned him whether any forces were tliere, of what strength, arid by whom commanded. The man, supposing them part of tiie parliament's farces, and willing to curry favour, talked of vast numbers, great strength, and delied the cavaliers with much affected, indignation. Upon this they held a council of war, and were once about to turn back. This delay gave an hour's respite to those within to prepare for llight, who had no j:ooner re- covered the end of the tow-n, than the horse entered it at the other, amazed to see themselves so miser- ably deluded. " This town was afterwards fortified by the king's party, and became a bad neighbour to Glo- cester, the' parliament's head garrison ; wherefore Governor Massie, on the 3th of June, in the year 1644, with one hundred and tv/enty horse, about thirty dragoons, and three hundred foot, resolved to attempt the taking it. The horse and dragoons, commanded by Major Hammond, advanced some few hours befor*; the artillery, and were to alarm the ene,Tiy till the foot came up ; they made a halt about a mile from the town, and drew out a pretty strong forlorn hope, conceiving they might possibly surprise tiiem, if they had not yet taken the alarm. And tlrst three men were sent to espy if the draw- bridge was down, and six more behind went un- discovered ; next unto these marched the forlorn hope, and the main body in the rear. *' In (his posture they marched up to the town, where thoy found the bridge dov\^n, the guards slender, the enemy without intelligence, and su- pinely negligent. On went the first party, killed ihe «('ntinels, a pikeman, and a musketeer without snatch, and made good the bridge. The forlorn H 3 hope 90 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. hope rushed in, and after them a full body of horse and dragoons fell upon the guards, came up to the main guard before the alarm was taken, overturned tiieh- ordnance, and charged through the streets as far as the bridge, Worcester-way, where they took Major Myor, governor of the town. The enemy threw do\vn their arms, many escaped by flight, and many where taken prisoners. Of the king's party. Colonel Godfrey, the quarter-master-general, were slain in the first charge. But the parliament's forces dismounting and neglecting to make good the bridge, at which they entered, and to disarm the main guard, the latter at length took courage, charged some of them, and beat them out of the town. However, Colonel Massie coming up with a few horse in the van of the foot, ordered the dra- goons to fire on those that defended the bridge next Glocester, whilst he drew the foot round the town, it being now dark night ; but before he could reach the further er^d, where he entered about midnight, the garrison were tied towards Worcester. There were found in the town two brass drakes, eighteen barrels of powder, and a few other military stores. The town itself was of grer.t consequence to the parliament, as a frontier town, securing tliat side of the county, and conynanding a great part of Worcestershire.'^ * Upon the Avon, in the parish of Twining, near Tewkesbury, IsTowberry Mill, an ancient camp of several acres, double-trenched, which Leland men- tions, ** it is a two miles from Theokesbyrie, above it in Ripa Leva? Sabrina?, upon a clyfle with double ditches, in the paroche ofTwyning. It is overgrown wulh juniper trees. It longed to Winchelcomb Ab- bey ; peradventure it was King Offa, or King Ran- ulphus' house." At Beckford, about five miles east from Tewkes- bury, therewas a priory of Austin Canons, found- ed by Robert Filz liamon, in the reign of Henry III. as TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION'. 91 a-s a cell to the abbey of St. Martin, and St. Barbara, in Normandy. The Church of this village is very ancient ; in 1622, the spire was become so much de- cayed from age that it was taken down, and the pre- sent tower erected in its place. At Walton, close to 1 owkesbury, there is a me- dicinal spring, similar to that of Cheltenham. Journei/ from Brhtolto Cirencester ; through Sodburi/ and Te^buiy. About two miles and a half north-east from Bris- tol, on the left of our road, is Stoke Stapleton, a very pleasant village, in which are some good houses, and extensive temporary barracks for prisoners of war. South of the church is the seat of Isaac Elton, Esq. an elegant mansion, with extensive gardens and plantations. A mile and a half north of Stapleton, is Stoke, a seat of the Dowager Dutchess of Beaufort, in the pa- rish of Stoke Gihbrd. This capital man ion was originally built by Sir Richard Berkely, in the reign of(iueen Elizabetii. It was greatly damaged du- ring the Civil Wars in the reign ofCiiarles I. It ■was rebuilt by the late Lord Botetourt, about the year 1760, and it is now a very noble mansion, highly deserving the stranger's observation. It stands on the brow of a lofty hill that rises abruptly from a hue lawn. The carriage way winds throu ;r;ii this lawn by an easy ascent up to the house, v;here is a tine bold terrace in the front, commanding a beautiful view of the surrounding country. The house is situated in the centre of an extensive park, full of line wood and beautiful plantations. About four miles north-east from Bristol, is Frenchay, a respectable village, agreeably situa- ted on the side of a* down or common, containing many good houses, built of freestone, in a very ele- gant stile. About a mile and a half before we reach Yate, on the left of our road is Ikcn Acton, a village, so called from 92 GLOUCESTE^LSHfRS. from the great quaniity of iron ore and cinders dug up in the parish, rier;^ is a beautiful cross, probably erected to serve as a pulpit for preaching friars. Tiiereare three small villages of tlie name of Sod- bury, with the epithets of Chipping, Old, and Little. C'ttipping So )bury was endowed by King Stephen wita the same privileges as Bristol; and a charter of :ncorn.)rati':.n was granted by Charles II. which was afterwa:ds, at the request of the inhabitants, annulled by proclamation. The chief trade of this place is in cheese ; it has a market on Thursday. Old Scbury, though only a village, is the mother church. 0)1 tiie brow of a hill in the hamlet of Little Sodbury, there is an ancient camp, of an oblong form, 320 yards long, and 200 broad. It is not known by whom it was made, nor have any coins been found tlr^re. Edward IV. lay here with his army a little before the battle of Tewkesbury. About live miles from Chipping Sodbury, on the right of our road, is Badminster House, a seat of the Duke of Beaufort, situated in an extensive park nearly nine miles in circumference. The mansion was erected by the lirst Duke of Beaufort, about the 3'ear 1682, and is a spacious buildingupon the French model, which was much in vogue at the beginning of the last century. In the hall is a large sarcopha- gus of Roman sculpture, representing a Bachanalian procession ; this was a present from Cardinal Alber- oni to Henry ,the third duke of Beaufort. This noble- man (who died young, in 1745) added many curious and original pointings to the collection at this house, obtained during his residence in Italy. Among them is a Holy Family, by Kaphad; several by Guido and Carlo Dolci, of great value ; and the very cu- rious satyrical picture painted by Salvator Rosa, for which he was banished from Rome. The sovereigns of Europe are here represented by different animal<;, as an eagle, a wolf, a sheep, a hog, a fox, a cow, and an ass ; the latter has the puntilical pall thrown over him ; TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 93 h'm ; and the goddess Fortune is showering her gifts over the whole group. The collection also contains some hne landscapes, by the Italian mas- ters, and a series of fourteen portraits of tne Beau- fort family, from John of Gaunt, lugiily imteresting to the EngUsh antiquary. About three miles north-west from Badminster, 15 WicKWAR, a small market town and very ancient corporation, being governed by a mayor and alder- man. The market day is on islonday. Tiie tcvn. is well watered by two brooks, over one of whicn is a handsome stone bridge. There is a Free-School belonging to the town, and the neighbouring wastes afford plenty of coal. In the garden of the manor-house there was lately a chesnut-tree, wiiich measurtd i9 yards, or 57 feet, in circumference, at the height of six leet above the ground, and supposed to have been planted in the reign of King John, about the year 121t). TETBURY, Tw"enty-six miles from Bristol, is a considerable town, agreeably situated on an eminence on the borders of Wiltshire. The town consists principally of four streets, which meet in the centre. On the S. E. side there were formerly to-be seen the traces of an arjcient camp, now completely destroyed, in the area of which arrows and javelin-heads have been found, \vith various British coins of great antiquity. There was also a castle here ; said to have been built above 2000 years ago, by a British king. Several Roman coins have been found m and near the town. In the year i770 the Old Churcli was undermined by a flood, which occasioned the roof to fall, and in other respects did so much damage, that it was rebuilt at the expence of 6,0001. The new builduig was, opened for public worship, October 7, 17S 1, and is a very handsome structure. I'he inside is divided into aisles, by a very light arcade and clustered co- lumns. 94 GLOUCESTERSHIRE, ]umns, which hovvevex support nothing, as the prin- ciple on which the roof of the Theatre at Oxford was constructed has been applied to this building. The tower belonged to the Old Church ; it lias now a handsome spire on it, Tliere is an Almshouse here for eight persons, founded and endowed by the bounty of Sir William Eonincy (alderman and sheriif of London in the reign of King James I,), a native of tiiis town ; who also founded a Free Grammar School here, which has produced several emineiit scholars, 'i^iere is another school, founded by ^Slrs. Elizabeth Hodges, late of Shipton Moyne, besides many other chari- table establislunents. The inhabitar.ts of this town are principally en- gaged in the wooUtn manufactory and sale of yarn, which is sold on the market-day in the market-house. In the middle of the town ; whereas cheese, bacon, and other coriimodities, are sold in great quantities ui a smaller market-house. According to the returns under the population act, the number of the inhabitants of this parish in 1801 amounted to 2,500. I'he parish is ten miles in circvmifercnce, nearly tlie whole of which is the property of the inhabitants. The iVvon -ises in it, which runs througii Bath and- Bristol into the Severn ; and at the end of the town is a long high bridge, half of which is in Wiltshire. The public revenue is 'managed by a bailiff cho- sen every year. North of the town is a petrifying spring, whicli encrusts pieces of wood and stone with a strong stony substance. The annual races are run upon a large common v.bout one mile eastward of the town, and are much- frequented by the neigiibouring gentry. ^ The weekly market is on Monday, and there are two annual fa'irs, on Ash-Wednesday and July 22. • Between Tetbury a4id Cirencester, a distance of " ten TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. O.'j tt-n miles, we meet with nothing requiring particu- lar notice. CrRENCESTER or CICETKR Is a large and populous market arid borough town, situated on the borders of Wiltshire, at tiie point where the three gn^at Roman roads, the I'osse-wayi the Erming-streel, and the Ikeneld-street, meet. It appears to have been a place of consequence froni the earliest period of our history, and more parti- cularly so during the time the Romans possessed the country. It was tiien the principal town of Do- iuni, and the seat of a lloman colony. It is called Corinum hy Ptolomy and Ravennas, and Duruco- novlum, i. e. the Water of Churn, by Antoninus. The present town occupies a part oidy of the an- cient site, which extended on the soutii-east side to the Leu is or Lcanxes grounds, a garden^ part of tiie Abbey ground in the tything of Chesterton, where, it is NUppofced, was tlie Pra^orium. The ancient city was sui rounded by a wall and ditch; the foundation of the former is still visible, appearing to have bc(^n eight feet thick, and built of hevin stone. This wall is supposed to have been destroyed soon after tiie time of ilenry IV. Leland, in his itinerary, observes, that " a man may yet walking en vtlie bank of Cluirne, evidently percevye thtj cumpace of foundation of towers 'sumtyme standing in the wall. And nc-r to the place wliere the right goodlie clothing mylle was set up lately by the Abbate, was broken down the ruin of an olH tower, tov.ard makyng of the mylle waulles, in the which place was found a quadrate stone, fauUen down afore, but broken i]i many pieces, wherein was a Roman inscription, of the which one scantlie lettered that saw yt, told me that he might per- ceyve PONT MAX. Among divers other coins found frequently there, Dioclesian's be most fair- est ; but I cannot adlirme ttie inscription to have been dedicate onto hym. In the middle of the old town, 96 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. town, in a meadow, was found a llore oi versicohri- hus ; and by the town, in our time, Mas found a broken shank-bone of a horse, the mouth closed with a pegge ; tiie which taken out, a shepard found it tilled with silver money. In the south soutl)-west side of the wall, be lykelehod hatii breu a castle, or sum other great buifding ; the hills and ditches yet lema'yne. The place is now a waren for conys, and therein halh bene found mens bones of unco.mmon size, also two sepulchres of hev/n stone, in one was a round vessel ot lead covered, and in it ashes and peaces of bones." Leland was also informed by the Abbot of Ciren- cester that he had found in ihe ruins arched stones, sculptured with large Roman letters. Various Ro- man coins have been found here, and Sir Robert Aitkyns mentions a curious building under ground, acc.(.ientally discovered. " This was Jifty feet long, and forty broad, and about four feet high, supported bv a hundred brick pillars, inlaid very curiously with tesscraick work, v;ith stones of divers colours little bigger than dice. Dr. Stukely, speaking of the Lewes or Leauscs above mentioned, says " large quantities of carved stones are carried oti from this tract yearly to mend the Highways, besides what are useful in building. A iine mosaic pavement was dug up here in Sep- tember 1723, with coins. I bought a little head, wliicli had been broken off from a basso-relievo, and seem-', by tlie tiara of -d very old shape, like fortili- cation work, to have been the gtnius of a city, or some o( the De^p .'l/rt/?r.v which are in old inscriptions." among the remains nientioned by Dr. Stukely, is a stone, with tlie following Roman inscription, now preserved m a garden wall in Castle Street. D. M. I\TJAE CAST.'XE CO:v[\'GI VI X. ANN. XX.XId. On TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION'. P7 On making the aqueduct for the supply of ihe Thames and Severn Canal in 1786 many unis and other antiquities were discovered ; among them was an urn of brown earthenware containing burnt bones enclosed in a case of lead; a styla w..h a flat edge, for the purpose of obliteration ; a Fibula ; the bust of a young man in Bronze ; and another bust apparently of Bacchus The ancient building mentioned by Sir Robert Aitkyns was again opened in 1780 when it was dis- covered to be a lionwn Hi/nocaust. In exploring the ruins, the workmen found a floor of coarse mortar at the depth of thr; e feet and a half iVom the surface; which extended about twelve feet to the north-east and then discontinued, upon sinking deeper at this spot. ''They came to another floor of terras, four-feet five inches below the surface of tlie iirst, and run- ning all the way under it ; the upper floor being sup- j)orted by rows of brick pillars, which stood upon that beneath. Having cleared away the earth from tlie second or last mentioned floor, they c ^me to a wall of hewn stone, ri>ing witlun about two U^t^t of the surface of the ground, at the distance of iifteeii feet from the broken edge of the upper terras, v.hich latter, it is evident, had originally extended to the wall: here seems to have been tlie boundary of the works on the north-east-side: on the soutli-east-side they tbund another wall, making a right angle with the former. In each wall was observed flw m;;^ y stones, forming the crown of an arch, the cavitv (.f which lay almost entirely below the top of the second terras. In order to examine these arches, a small part of the under floor was beat up along the sides of the walls, and at the depth of thiity-four inch:^ a third strong floor of terras was discovered, runn ng into the second ; the space between being tilleci up wit!i rough stones, tlirown together m a piomisc us manner. Tins last served as a floor lotne arches, I whicii 98 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. V hich had nothing in them but rubbish, and at bot' toni a bed of wood ashes, about two inches thick. An apartment or vauU of the same description was found adjoinipg on the south-ea^t, but much less per- fect, 'i he great strength and stal)ilily of the vault- ing are remarkable. The upper lioor cf each vault is fourtecm inches thick; the pillars are thirty-nine in- ches highland eight inches and a quarter square; they consist of courses of entire bricks of the same super- iicial diniensions, and about one inch and three quar- ters thick, except that each pillar has a large brick, eleven inches s(|uare, for its base, and anotlier of the same size^ by way of capital, "^ihere are only twenty^ two pillars now standing; though originally there inust^ave been nearly double that number. — iiud- thr's Gloucesiershirc. A tesselated pavement was discovered in 1 777, under a warehouse in Dyer Street, about six feet below the surface. It suffered much injury from the workmen before it was observed. It v.'as about sixteen or eighteen feet square, with a c'.iequered border, fourteen inches in breadth, composed of blue and wliite tes.serie. This pavement was divided into four equal compartments, by lines of hearts linked together, or interlacetl feetvvise. The cen- tral pieces consisted of an octagon wreathed border, inclosing a star with wavy rays, directed to the an- gles of the octagon : and had also a small figure of tiie same kind in the middle of each compartment all besides within the bord-ers and compartments consisted of chequered-work. No care having been taken to preserve the remainsof this ]iavemen|; from the eliccts of their exposure to the atmosphere, the whole has been gradiuiiiy destroyed. F.a.rt of anotlier and more beautiful pavement was discovered in the same street, under a ])ouse for- merly belonging to John Smith, Esq. 'Jhi.s has been ■areiuily preserved, and is still as perfect as when luuiid. ' It Vt composed of various coloured tessera?,. and TOPOGRAPHICAL DF,SCRIPTION\ 99 and represents sea monsters, shell, and sea-fish, an^ parts of other (igures, one of wiiich is mounted on tne back of a wliale. A drawing was made of this pavement by iS. Lv sons, Esq. and presented to the ^Society of Antiquaries, who have had it engraved. Aniong the many other Roman antiquities disco- vered at this place are to be mentioned the coins of Antoninus and Constantine ; a fine brass ligure of Apollo, now in the Bokian Library at Oxford ; se- veral small altars ; a monumental stone, with the . folio win 2; inscription : ^ DM P VICAN^E P VITALIS CONIVX and a funeral urn of green glass, of a square form, found in a held called King's Mead, about half a mile from the town. Mr. S. Lysons describes this urn to have been wrapped in lead, and deposited in • a stone, hollowed out to receive it : " it is of a green- ish colour ; not very transparent, but well moulded, having several raised circles on its bottom, quite smoptt), without any appearance of ever naving been fastened to a blowing iron as all modern glass vessels are in the making. Its diameter at the top is iive inches and three eighths; height ten inche? and one eighth ; and width at the bottom five inches and live eighths." The hollowed stone was cove- red with a tiat one, and found in a piece of ground about twenty feet square, inclosed with a stone wall below the ground, with a corner arched turned over it. A Roman origin is also ascribed to a spot of ground called the Queenh, on the soutlj-west of the town, full of large stones, but now covered with her- bage within which is the Butt Ring ; a supposed Roman ampitheatre. It is thus described in the History of Cirencester. **The area is of an eliptical form, inclosed with a I 2 mound 100 GLOUCFSTErSlIIRE. jnound or wall of earth, about twenty feet liigh, vcr} rogulariy sloped on the inside with rows of seats, like steps, one below anotiier from top to bot- tom ; tiieseare overgrown with herbage and defaced b} time. '1 lie longest diameter of the area is about sixty three yards, the other forty-six : it has one avenue on the east side, and another on the \ve^>t ; and there is also a straight approach to it linder giound, on the south between stone walls about two feet and a half asunder, pointing to the centre of the area." After the departure of the Eomans, this city was retained by the Britons until they weie dispossessed by the West Saxons, in-o77. It was, afterwards, in 036, annexed to the Mercian kingdom, by Pendar, the ^rst Christian King of Mercia. Alter the treaty made in consequence of Alfred's victory over the Danisli Chief, GothrL.m, at Eddington, in Wiltshire, i;i S7{,>, the latter, witli his followers, resided here a whole year, previous to their departure to the east- ern parts of tlie island. In lO'JO, Canute held a gr-eat council here, at which Duke Etlielwold was expelled l)is dominions. During the war between Stephen and the Empress Maud, her haU-brother, Robert, ]'ari of Gloucester, garrisoned Cirencester Castle; but it was soon afterwards surprised by the king, and burnt. In the time of Henry 111. the barons got pos- session of this castle ; but tlie king recovering it, is- sued his warrant tor its total demolition. In the l6th of the reign of King .lohn, a large army was asseni- b'erl here by tiiat monarch. 1 he most remarkable military anecdote recorded of this place, is the sup- pression, by tlie tov.nsmen, of tiie^ insurrection of the Dukes ol Wumerle, Hurrey, and Exeter, the Earls of CJoucester and Salisbury, and their adiierents, in tlie reign of Henry IV. These noblemen had plan- ned to assassinate'the king, during the tournament to be lield before him at Oxford, but the plot being di^covered to the ki]ig,Aunierle and tiie other conspi- rators. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. lOl raters, assembled an army to surprise the monarch at Windsor; but he being equally active, marchtd to- wards them with an army of 20,000 men, and com- pelled them to retreat to Cirencester, where tJie chiefs took up their quarters, their army bemg en- camped without the walls. Taking advantage of this circumstance, the bailiff and about four hundred of the inhabitants seized the gates, and attacked the unsuspicious noblemen in their quarters. The Duke of Surrey and the Earl of Salisbury, were taken and belveaded; the Duke of Exeter and the Earl of Gloucester, escaped to the camp, which they foujid deserted ; the troops having fled on hearing the confusion in the town. The particulars of this event are thus detailed in Holinshed's Chronicle. *^They came to Cirences- tre in the dark of the night,- and took up their lodgings. The inhabitants, suspecting the matter as the truthe was, they tooke counsaile together, and got them to armour, and stopped all the entries and outgates of the inns where these new guestes were lodged ; insomuch that when they, about mid- night, secretlie attempted to liave come forthe, an.d gone their waies, the towns men, with bowe and arrowe, were ready to stay them, and keep them in. The lords perceaving the danger, got them to their armour and weapons, and did their best by force to repulse the townsmen; but, after they had foughte from midnight till three o'clock of the eveninge of the next day, ihey yielded themselves to the towns- men ; beseeching them, to have their lives saved till they might come into the presence of the king. This rcqueste they had obteined, if a priest that was chaplaine to one of them, had not, in the mean tyme, set lire on certain houses of the town, tliat whiles the townsmen were busie to quench rh.- lire, the lordes might lind uieansto escape: but it came to notliHig to passe as he imagined; for the towns- men, leaving ail c-are to save their houses from th» 1 3 rags 102 G^OUCESTF.R&HIRE. rage of the fire, were kindled more infarie towards the lordes, and soe to revenge themselves ot them, they brought them forthe of the abbey, where they hadde them in their haiides, and on the twilight of the eveninge stroke of tiieir heads." The king, to reward tlie inhabitants of Cirencester for their loy- u)tv, granted tJK-ni all the property of the conspi- rators found in trie town, except plate, jewels, and money; together with four does in season from ]>raden Forest, and one hogsiiead of wine from Bristol, yearly to the men ; and six bucks and a hogshead of wine yearly, to the women of Ciren- cester. During the Civil Wars in the reign of Charles I. this town declared for the parliament, and was of such strength as to.be deemed the Key of Glouces- tershire. On the 21st January l64i?, the king's forces, commanded by Prince Rupert, began to move towards Cirencester; it was immediately and on the second of February, carried by assault. The garrison last 300 men killed, 1200 ta1\en prisoners, and 160 wounded. " Ihe town," observes Claren- don, "yielded much plinulerfrom whtch the undis- tinguishing soldier could not be kept, but was ecjually injurious to friend and foe; so that many lionest men, who were inij)risoned by tlie rebels, found themselves at liberty and undone together. In the year ]d43, the F.arl of Essex recovered the town for the parliament, and garrisoned it under Sir Nicholas C-risp and Colonel Spencer. Before the Con(]ue«;t, there w as a rich college of prebendaries; and in 1117, ilenry I. built a stately abbey here for black canons ; he dedicated it to the Virgin Mary, and endowed it with the revenues of the college before mentioned. Several of the succeeding kings liberally increa^ed the original endow rnents, so that at the Dissolution in 1539, it was valued at 10511. 7s. id. per arinui^. -The Abbey Churcli was uf Saxon- urwhiteciux*', and ac- cor(.Uns TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRimoSr. 103 <-ording to a manuscript preserved at Benct College, Canibridp;e, was L'SO feet ii) length, and of propor- tionable dimensions. Tlie site and buildings of the abbey were granted by Henry Vill. to Roger Bas- singe, Esq ; wiio v/as commanded to pull down and remove all the edilices within the abbey precincts; which was done so completely, that of the church not the leas-t vestige remains to ascertain its situa- tion ; and all that now exists of the abbey buildings, are the Almery Gate, the Spital Gate, and a large Barn, llie seat of I'homas Master, Esq. now called the Abbey, occupies the site of most of the monas- tic buildings. An hospital dedicated to St. John the Evangelist, was also founded here by King Henry I. for three poor men and three poor women ; it is yet in being, and these six poor persons have each an allowance of one shilling and eightpence per week, and a share of the lines for the renewal of leases of lands, with which the hospital is endowed when they happen. Saint Laurence's Hospital in this town was found- ed in t'v.e time of Edward HI. by Edith, lady of one Wegold, for a master and two poor women. The master was formerly nominated by the abbot, but is now presented by the king. The two poor women liave now about 'Js. 6d. per week each. Saint Tho- mas's Hospital was founded for four decayed wea- vers, by Sir William Nottingham, who died in tjie year 1427. This also is yet in being, under the •government of the weaver's company. The Church at Cirencester is esteemed one of the most magnificent parochial edifices in the kingdom. It was linished only a few years prior to the dissolu- tion of the abbey. The interior consist of a nave, 5ide aisles, a choir, a chancel, and five chapels. At the west end is a handsome tower, 134 feet high, wrnamenled with battlements, pinnacles, and sta*- tues. 104 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. " tues. On the south side is a most beautiful porch, highly ornamented on the outside, with grotesque figures, carved niches, canopies sculptured, cor- nices, and open worked battlements, and within by radiated tracery, spreading over the roof in eight circular fan-shaped compartments, which rise from single pillars, and meet in tiie centre, where the lozenges formed by the extremes of the circles, are ornamented with circles of quatrefoils. The in- side of the church contains two rows of clustered columns, five in each, which, with two piilasters at each end, support the roof. The windows were originally filled with painted glass ; but a great deal liaving been broken or misplaced, the chief part of what remained has been collected from the others in the church, and replaced with superior taste in the great east and west windows, under the direc- tion of S. Lysons, Esq. In the west window is a portrait, supposed to represent Richard Duke of York, father to Edward IV. Of the chapels, that dedicated to St. Catherine is entitled to particular notice. It is situated on the north side of the church, between the chancel and St. Mary's Chapel. The central compartments of its pendant roof, are richly ornamented with a variety of carved work, consisting of roses and foliage, the arms of Henry VII. within the garter and the cognizances of the King and Prince of Wales. The length of the chapel is thirty-four feet ; its breadth thirteen. There are several rich sepulchral brasses, which are very curious, and worthy the notice of the an- tiquary. Drawings have been made of three of the most remarkable,^ by Mr. Lysons. They are in Trinity Chapel, and represent William Prelatte, Esq. and his two wives. The former appears in plated armour, with a gorget of mail, having a dag- ger on his riglit side, and long sword across his middle. The ladies have the mitred head dress of that TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 105 tliat age (the fifteenth ceiitiiry), \vith veils, long loose gowns with close sleeve^, and culi's of eimine ; at their feet are little dngs with collars of bells. There are many curious inscrijitions and monu- ments contained in the diil'erent parts of this church. In Trinity Chapel, is an elegant marble monument, with the bust of Allen, Earl Bathurst, and his lady, and a weeping ligure between them ; and adjoining to this, another monument to the memory of the earl's syn, the Loud Chanclllor Bathl'rst, Avho died in 1794, aged V'O. There are sone curious figures sculptured on the outside of tlie church, ujuler the parapet of the north side of the nave, representing minstrels with various instruments of music practised in the fif- teenth century. They are supposed to be the characters of a WhitmaAle, and one of them, the lord of the feast, in a hunting dress, with a cap and feathers, a bugle horn, and in his left hand an arrow ; in his right he carries a scroll, with an inscription ia black lelter, which s^nie read, TSOE £@€EE.'5l€:. (Be Merry.) Under the parapet on the south side, there is another range of figures in the same stile, repre-- senting death, a monk, an abbot, a king, a prize- tighter with a sword and dagger, an angel, Sec. There are several public schools at Cirencester, the most ancient of whicii is the Free Grammar School, founded by Bishop Hutliall, a native of this town, and a privy counsellor to Henry VII. Several eminent persons have been educated at this school. 'Ihe IMue Coat School was established by sul)scrip- tion, in 17i4. It was afterwards endowed with l.")l. per aimum, by Thomas Powell, Es{j. out of an annuity payable from the Exchequer for ninety- nine years, and with a moiety of the profits of Mas- kciyne's Ham, in Cricklade. ** And the Court of t hancerv in 1737, appropriated 201. a \ear, out of the 106 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. the estates bequeathed to Mrs. Powell, for erect- ing and endowuig a charity school, or scliools, in this parish, for the support of this school ; and in 1744, appointed the produce of 5621. 7s. Od. to to be paid yearly for the benefit of this school, as a provisional supply alter the expiration of the an- nuity out of the Exchequer." Tlie Yellow Coat School, was founded under the will of Mrs. Rebecca Powell, who died in 172!^; for teaching twenty boys of Cirencester, reading and arithmetic, and the artof franie-work-knitting;*and for clothing, leach- ing, and learning twenty girls to spin. This school was not commenced until the year 1737, lifteen years after the death of the testatrix, owing tg some delay in the Court of Chancery. The chief trade of Cirencester, is wool-stapling, and the manufacture of heavy' edge tools, parti- cularly curriers knives, which are much esteemed, and made by three or four houses in this town ; by one at (jloucester, and at scarcely any other place in the kinp,dom. From the jivnction of the Thames, %vith the Severn, a cut has been made to Cirences- ter ; by which means it has the advantage of water- carriage to most parts of the kingdom. ^ . Here are two good weekly markets, on Monday and Friday; and three annual fairs, viz. on Easter ■"i'uesday, July 18, and November 8 ; and also two Mops, or statute markets for hiring servants, on the Monday's preceles, and the fourteen wardsmeu chosen as belbiQ mentioned. Cirencester has sent two members to parliament since A. D, 1568. Although there have been many resolutions of the committees of the house, on the right of election for this borough, yet none of thein have received the sanction of the House of Com- mons ; the riglit is consequently at present unde- fined, but generally understood to bf in the inha- bitant householders of the borough, not receiving alms. The number of vbtei"s i? about 500. Cirencester is celebrated for the salubrity of its air. It consists of four principal and seven smaller streets, besides lanes, &c. Coming in to the town from Gloucester, a great part of the street is a hol- low way, where a portion of the river Churn runs, which empties itself into one of the arms of that river at the second bridge. Tradition says, the river formerly ran through the town. The Stroud- water Navigation ha-s a connnunication with this town, from wliich great advantage must arise. According to the returns under. the population act, thenumber of inhabitants in 1801 amounted to 4, 130. On the west of Cirencester, is Oakley Grove,. the seat of Henry Larl Bathurst ; remarkable for the beauty of its extensive grounds, which were Jaid out and perfected in tiie life-time, and under the particular dir^ clions, of Allen Earl Bathurst ; father to tlie present noble proprietor. The en- trance to the park is at a lodge on the north side of the house, by a spacious gravel walk, lined on each side by a row of stately elms. At a small distance from tae entrance to the left, is an oblique prospect of tlie nortli-west front of the house, wiui a line sweep of lawn before it, and a grove of lofty trees pn each side ; luruing to tiie right tiie walk divides, one l>ranch leads to the terrace, the other runs by the side of tt in a serpentine direclion, above a mile }li lengti), linely arclied and shaded ; at the en4 is 108 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. is a small building called Pope's Seat, where tliis great genius frequently retired vhen oii a visit to his noble Iriend. There is a lawn, to the c ntre of which eight vistas are directed, terminating with the pros})ect of the neighbouring churches and adjiicent counti y; tlie terrace is sheltered on tlie north-east by a thick plantation of wood, with a border of shruh> and evergreens. It commands a (hstant prospect of the north of Wiltsliire, and terminates at a handsome octagonal building, about a mile from tlie house. In the middle of the terrace, at a large pair of gates (a communication between tlie deer and lodge parks) is seen a large lake of water, a little to the right of the Jiouse, having the appearance of a considerable river, but is only a ))leasing deception, produced by planting clumps of trees to conceal the extremities of the lake. 'I'o the we-jtward of this park, are tlie Lodge Park, and Oakeley Vv'oods, which deserve particular notice,; near tlie middle of them, on arising ground, is the point from which, like so many radii, ten cuts or ridings issue, the largest about fifty yards wifle, has the lofty tower of Cirencester to terminate the view. Concealed as it were in the woods, is Alfred's Hall, an excel- lent imitation of antiquity, witii a bowling green, and many beautiful lawns and agreeable walks about it. The truflle, a vegetable production, is found in great abundance in these woods. The mansion was built early in the last century, and though very extensive, is more convenient than grand. It contains many elegant apartments, and a line collection of paintings, among which isa great number of valuable portraits. Jonrnci/ from Cirenccsttr, to Lech lade find Falrford. The church at Siddikcton St. Peter, a small village, two miles south of Cirencester, on the road to Cricklade, is entitled to notice, on account of TCrOCRAPiriCAL DESCRIPTION. ICA of its antiquity and architecture. It is dedicated to :?lt. Teter, iuul luis a handsome cliapcl, or aisle, on the north side, erected in the 15th century, by Ed- mund Lanirh-y. Tlie south door-\va} of tlie church is in tlie baxon styU', with two columns on eacil side. The capitals of the inner columns are grotesque keads, and tlie moulding springing from them is also ormunented by a series- of heads of various forms. The church at Houth C'erney, another small vil- lage, about three miles from biddington, is also a very ancient and curious building. Two miles eastward from Soutli Cerney is Dow.v iLMFNFY, situated near a small rivulet, called Amp- ney Brook, on the edge of the county, adjoining "Wiltshire. The church is curious, and is said to have been built by «.he Knights Templars, about the Near 1250. Ui-vder the window, at the south end ot the traiisept,, is the tomb of Sir Nicholas de Vilhers, and ills lady, with their etiigies, represented under an arch. The knight is represented as a crusader, in mad and surtout, with hi=^ legs crossed, his feet rest- ing on a lion, and his right hand on the liilt of his s-word : on his left arm is a shield, bearing the cross ©f St. George, charged with tive escallop-siiells. 'J'his figure is of hard blue stone; that of the lady is of free-stone, and much mutilated. Three miles from hence isKempsford, anciently a r*>val demesne." 'J here is a well-founded tradition," observes Bigland, " that Kempsiord was the site of a. royal pahice iu the Saxon times, and that the Cha- •vrorthsandPiantagenets resided in il)eir ca.-.tle here, -tt'hich v/as rebuilt by Sir Thomas Thynne, in the icign of James I. ""J'his manorial mansion, within a ft:w years levelled with the ground, was a quadran- gular structure, of very large dimensions, orna- Enented in the style of that day." — " Henry, Duke ©f Lancaster, resided here in the reign of Henry III. •^herc his only son came to an unfortunate end, ■which tkteiiauied the duke to leave the place; and K his 110 GLOUCESTERSiriHE. his horse casting a shoe at his departure, the inha- bitants nailed it to the church-door, ^• here it re- mains, as a memorial of tliat event, to this day." — Kudder's Gloucestershire. LEACHL.3E Is a small market-town, situated on the north side cf the River isis, or Thames, 13 mil-es east irom Ci- rencester, and 2S from Gloucester. The town de- rives its name from the small river Leche, which rises near North Leach, in this county, and empties itself into theThames, a little below St. John's Biidge, in this parish. In a meadow, near St. John's Bridge^ there was an hospital, dedicated to St. John tiie Baptist, founded by Lady Isabella Ferrars, before the 30th of Henry III. butthis house being decayed, the revenues were applied to the foundation of a ciiantry of three priests in tJie parish church. The church is a handsome structure, the living a vicarage endowed. Lawrence Bathurst, Esq. in the year 1672, gave the great tythes to the vicarage for ever, which, with the house and premises, are said to be worth upwards of 400!. per annum. The town is governed by a constable, and, accord- ing lo the returns under the population act, contains ab^outyi/- inhabitants. ** In a m .adow, near Leachlade, was lately disco- vered a large sujterraneous building, supposed to have been a Roman bath : it is near 50 feet in length, 40 in breadth, aud four in height ; and is supported by pillars of brick, and curiously inlaid in stones of variegated colours." Four miles nortli-west from Leachlade, on thr' the road to Gloucester, is FAIRFORD, A small market-town, situated at the foot of tlie Cotsv.old Hills, on a drv gravelly soil, which renders it remarkably heaUhy. The name of the town is de- rived from its old ford over the Coin (a little above its TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 111 its infiux into thelliames), on ^vhich il has now two neat bridgCb. Tlie parish is ten miles in compass, und distinguished by the Borough East and Mill Town End. 'ilie nranf)r of Faivford was held, in the reign of Edward tlie Confessor, by Bithric, Earl of Glouces- ter, irom whom^it was taken by Matilda, the wife of William, Duke of Normandyfafter her death it re- verted to tlie crown. In 1203, Richard de Clare, Earl of Gloucester and Hereford, obtained this lord- ship, with the privilege of a market and fairs. It then descended to the Bcauchamps, and Nevilles, Earls of Warwick, and was one of the U4 manors which were fraudulently obtained from Anne, Coun- tess of Warwick, by Henry Vll. by a deed, dated December I3th, 1488. h/u98, it was again pur- chased from th.e crown, and is at present tlie pro- perty of John Kavmond Barker, Esq. of Fairford Tark". r'airford derives its chief celebrity from its church, the windows of which contain the Vmest and largest collection of ancient painted glass in tb.e kingdom. '!'he church is dedicated to tiie Virgin Mary, and consists of a lofty nave, a chancel, and side aisles, with a tower rising from the centre, upon which a spire was probably intended to have been erected. 'ITie architecture of the interior is extremely fine, and riclily embellished ; elegant fluted pi'hirs di- vide the aisles from the nave, and a beautiful oak screen surrounds the ciiancel, ornamented with finely carved tabernacle-work. 1 he jjavement is che- <}uered with blue and white stone, and has a remark- a'iily neat appearance. The whole length of the Ciiurch is lf>0 feet, its breadth 55. I'he history of this elegant building is curious. — Jolin Tame, a merchant of a respectable family, '•rtiled in London, where several of them had served the office of sheriff, had the gt>od fortune to take a vessel bound for Home, laden with painted glass, K 2 wiiich 112 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Vhich he brought into Ent>iii!Kl. Having determined to erect a building to receive this gla:;s, lie made choice of t'airlbrd, where lie had lesidedsoino time, for tiie purpoic, and having purchased the manor of Henry Vil. as above-mentioned, he commenced the present church, in 1493; but dying soon afterwards, it was completed by his son, Sir Edmund Tame, Knt. The glass was disposed hi 28 windows, with four or more con^partments in each. The subjects are all from the Scripture, representing the principal events related in the Old and New I'estaineut, raid, but with no degree of certainty, to have been de- signed by the famous Albert i^urer. They are, iiow- ever, most beautifully executed ; so much so, tiiat it is recorded of Vand\ke, who inspected them, that he " often aflirmed, both to the king (Ciiar-es 1.) and others, tiiat many of the hi^ures were so exqui- sitely wt?U done, tiiat they could not be exceeded by the best pencih" Mr. Daliaway, hi his Anec- dotes of the Arts, after objecting to the opinion of their being designed bv Albert Durer, observe? fur- ther, that " Neither X-,una Van Leyden, nor Gol- zius, could liave been employed, as they both flou- rished after the church was finished; but for this, the extreme resemblance of tl;e style to the well- knowji etchings of tliose masters, would induce us to attribute tills beautiful work to them. May we be allowed a conjecture, that the designer v:d> Frari- sesco Francia, who was born at Bologna, in I4j0, and lived tliere till 1518, peculiarly eminent in the art of encaustic painting." in several of tiie windows the figures .ire now much mutilated or displaced, wiiich probably was the consequence of their removal during the Civil Wars, in order to preserve them from the undistin- guishing fury of the parliamentary fanatics. To screen them from further injury, the li<>n, Kiizabetii I'Vrmer, a daughter of Lord Leinster, gave 2001. towards placing a wire lattice against each window. 'ihere TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRTPTIO.NT, 115 There are several curious monuments and inscrip- fions in Fairford diurch. The most -interesting is that to the memory of John Tame, the beneficent founder of the edifice, and /Vlicia, liis wife. It is a table tomb, in tiie north aisle, composed of Italian marble. Upon tiie slab, on the top, are inlaid brass, displaying their effigies: beneath is the following t'gend: jFor j'f'iug ToSc \}Tav for mr, ZjJit\} a ?;atcr nogter ct an attc. I may not pray — now pray ye That mv payngs relesscd may be. Tiicre have been many medals and urns dug up in Fairford, and in the fields adjoining there are se- veral barrows, supposed to have been raised over ?ome considerable persons, who have been slain lirre in battle ; though it does not appear from his- tory that any battle was fought in or near this place. Several charities are still subsisting in this town, for tiie relief of the poor, and a Free School has been some time established and supported by the produce of money bequeathed by the abov':-mentioned Hon. Ehzcibeth Fermer, and Mary Barker, spinster. The weekly market is on Thursdays ; the grant of v\'hieh was procured by Andrew Barker, Esq. in 1672, as well as oftwo fairs yearly, on the l4th May and 12th of November. The population of this parish was returned, in 1801, at 1.326 inhabitants. At QuEviNGTON', or Queenington, two miles north from Fairford, a small village, there was a preceptory of Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Je- rusalem, to whom this manor was given, bv Agnes de Lascio, or T,acy, and her daughter Sibylla, be- fore the reign of King John. It was valued, upon tlie Dissolution, at 1371. 7s. id. per annum. The architecture of Quevington Church is re- markable, displaying reniains of great antiquity^ hi 3 tliough Il4 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. tliough much altered by repairs and aineudmeftts during tlie last two centuries. " The original round-headed windows may still be traced, though they are now either walled up, or changed into sharp-pointed or square ones. At the w estern extremity of the north and south walls, are two r/(w-?/picimus. Over tne door is the figure of our Saviour, carved in bass-relief, tramplinu- ^n the Devil, bound iiand and foot, and tlirusting the cross into his mouth. There are ali»o three ligures in praying attitudes, one TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 115 one of whom appears j^ist escaping from the jaws of a large serpent ; over these is a figure of the sun. Above the door- way is the figure of a ram's head, much mutilated. The above extracts are from Mr. S. Ly sons' " Description of Queenington," inserted in the tenth volume of the Arciiaologia, and illustrated by three engravings. " Mr. Lysons supposes, from the general style, that this church was erected soon after the Conquest, and probably by Walter de T.aci, to whom the ma- nor was given by the Conqueror, or by his son, Eoger de Laci, who is said to have been in such favour with the Norman sovereign, that he bestowed on him 1 1 6 manors, of which twenty were in Glouces^ tershire. Jou7'nci/from Ciroiceslcr to Moreton-in-thc-Marshy through J^orth Leach find St o.c- in- 1 he-Wold. About foM.r miles from Cirencester, on the right of our road, is Bamsley Park, a magnificent seat, the residence of James Musgrave, Esq. owner of the manor of Bamsley. The house is built in the high Italian style, and contains some fine paintings. The Park is about three miles in circumference, and well w'oocied. Bamsley Church is a small irregular building, said to have been built by bir Edmund Tame, Knt. of Fairford, who occasionally resided in this parish. Abo\!t two miles east of this seat is Bibury, a small village, near the banks of the river Colne. This lordship was anciently the property of the see of Worcester ; but was alienated with other lands in 1547, by Bishop Heatli, Bibury is a peculiar, possessing jurisdiction over Aldesworth, Bamsly,- and Windsor : the lord of the manor however " claims a prescriptive right of appointing his own' ofticial and chancellor, who hath the recording of ^viUs, and the granting of liccuqcij within the pecu- liar : 116 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. Har : nor doth ttie lord of the manor allow to the t)is!jop t!ie rigiit of visitation. The Church is a handsome and spacious fabric iii the Norman style of arcWtccture. There vtah formerly a carious colossal painting in frtsco of St. Christopher, on the north wall of this church. Ihe monkish legends attribute an extraordinarv virtue to the image of this saint : the sight of which>. they say, had sufficient efticacy to preserve tht- spectator from sudden or vi(5ient death. On t\m left of ourro-'.d, at eight miles from Ciren- cester, is Stowfll, the seat of the kite Lord Ched- "worth, situated upon a gentle eminence, within a park, containing about 100 acres beautifully planted. One mile from hence is N.oiith Leach, a siriall market town, consisting ch:elly of one long irregu- lar street, situated in a bottom in the Cotswold Hills, not far from tiic source of the little river Lech, from which tlie town derives its name. This ^vas formerly a place of considerable impor- tance as a clothing town, but it is now nuich de- clined, through the insutiiciency of Vtater for the use of the manufacture. The church is a iine gotirlc structure, dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, consisting of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, an elegant south porch, and a lofty tower on the west end, with open- worked battlements. There is a good Free Grammar School in this town, founded by Hugh Westwold, Esq. in the first year of Queen Elizabeth's' leign. Jt is endowed with t!ie impropriated tythes of Chedworth, and ^ messuage and tenement, producing at this timer un- num. I'he population of the parish in ISO I appears t^est to the north of England, and about two miles iconi it stands the JPe returns under the population act, the number of houses in this parish in ISO 1 wa» 171 : the number of inhabitants 829. About two miles v. est fi-om hence is Bourton-on^- THE-lliLL, which is supposed to have been anciently a. mucli larger place, as after rains the extensive tbundalions of houses are discernablc. Near this village are the vestiges of an ancient camp or en- trenchmt"i4:. Jouriui/Jrom Ttlhytry to Gloucester ; through M'mch- inhampti))!, laHroinl, and Vdinsicick. The manor of AvExMN'g, about three miles from Tetbury, Was g'.TUted by William the Conqueror to the nunnery of Caen in Normandy ; upon the suppression of alien priories it was granted to the nuns of Sion in Middlesex, to wliom it belonged at the Dissolution. Henry \ III. in the year i54l, granted this lordship, with other estates, to Andrew Lortl Wyndesor, and in the seventeenth century it ]3t;came by purchase the property of Samuel Sliep- pard, Kstj. in whose family it yet remains. Gatcomb park, the seat of PMlip Sheppard, Esq. is partly in this parish, and partly in that of Minchinhampton. 'I'iie house is an ekgant modern buildijur, erected about thirty years ago. Avening Church is art ancient fabric, built in the form of a cross, in the Norman stile of architecture ; a low tower risi^t^ frora the intersect lion. In 120 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. In a field near Gatcombe Park, is a large oval tumulus, now planted with lir?, which iiad huge erect stones at each end of it, and arms within it. "On the summit is placed a huge fragment of rock, evidently a sepulchral monument, which has been known for ages by the name of the 'riitf^/e Sto7ic. In tiie common held near it are two large stones set upright in the ground : one has its top broken off, tiie other is perfect, and stands nearly ten feet above the surface. Tradition assigns one, or both, to the memory of Long, a Danisii Chieftaui, wiience the name of Lung's Stone or Pillar : near it two an- cient rings have been found." — liudge's Gloucester' s/iirc. About three miles east from Avening is Rod- MERTOX, a small village supposed to be of Roman origin, situated to the nortli of tlic Ikenild-street or way. A tesselated pavement, and various Roman coins, and antiquities, were discovered here in 1636 ; which circumstance is recorded by an entry in the registry for that year, made in I^atin by the Rev. Mr, Yate, tlie then rector. It is thus translated by Rudder: "This year, in a field called Hocbtrri/^ as the people were at plough, the ploughshare turn- ed up soinetiles, discovered a tesselated pavement, and there found also some !)rass coins of the em- perors xVntonmus and Valentinian. The inhabi- tants told me that thi-y had often times found brass and silver coins, but did not know what they were, and that they had heard their ancestors say, that Rodmarton was fornn-rly removed from that place, to where it now stands : Jiowever it appears that there were once a Roman station here." AtHasledon, near R xlmarton, there was a Bene- dictine mona^ery, founded inll40, by Reginald ix.i.e armour; tnc latteir in the most courtly and fa- shionable dress of the times. The sculpture is very accurately copied from two paintings oi Sir William .Sandvc, and his lady, by Cornelius Jansen, which were'sent to Italy for tiuit purpose ; and even the nice:st parts of the female dress are exquisitely finished. On the sides of the tomb, decorated witli escutcheons of arms, are the kneeling ligures of their 10 children. This superb monumei^.t cost iOOOl. and is still in the highest state of preservation." Sir William Si.ndys died ni 1640, and his lady about four years af'er. 'nieiraveheroftaste will be delighted with the natu- ral b'v-autics ofMiSERDEN Park, "wliich is seven miles ui circumference uneven in surface,clothedwith iine beech wood, aiul exhibiting many picturesque, <^e;!i' from hence to Hereford. The beds of coal ap,3e. to, be of great magnitude, and the ore of excel!.' . quality. CoKSE, a small village, three miles east from N^-, ent, and about eigiit miles from Gloucester, is b aur fully situated, and great impr.-venients ha.^s heat. At the end ot twelve lands they make twelve fires in a row with straw; around one of which, made larger than the rest, they drink a cheer- ful glass of cyder to their master's health and success to the future harvest ; then returning home, they fea-t on cakes made of carraways, &c. soaked in cyder, which th- y claim as a reward for their past labours in sowing the grain." — Rud^e. Dymoi K, about tour miles north from Newent, vas formerly a place of much greater extent and consequence than it is at present. In the reign of Henry III. it had tlie privilege of a market and fairsj but these have been long disused. ihe ceU^brated JoHK Kyrle, better known per- haps h\' the appellation of the Man of Ross, was born at White House, in Dymock parish, in the year 1(:)3r, and died in 1/24, at Ross, iu Herefordshire; Returning to our road towards Michel Dean, we pass through the village of Lon^hope, where we found in tlje church-yard an inscription recording tne burial place of Thomas Bii^kl, who died in the year 1 / Oa, at the great age of 124. MiClikL Dlv-xN, Or Dean Michel, is a small ill built town, formerly a stapie for wool, but at present much decayed; It is situated on the borders of the county next Herefu.-dsaire, about twelve miles from Gloucester. It )•; tii(i principal town in the forest, otberwise called tiie Forest of Dean, and is supposed to derive its name froiri the Saxon word Dene, referring to its si- tuation in a deep dell, and Mid signifying (treat, to h this place from Little Dean, a neigii- bouraig village. The town consists chiefiy of one street. " The Church, dedicated to St. Miciiael, is nearly qua- . dranuiular, and con'^ists of a nave, a cluiucel, two north ai'.Lii, and one soutii aisle, with a tower adjoin^ •FOrOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION l35 irg, terminated by a weil-proportiontd octagonal spire, 15.? feet high from the foundation. 1 he aisles appear to have been built at diiiVrent periods, as the forms of the arches are various : and the wliole fa- bric underwent- considerable reparations about 100 years ago. The roof is of oak tnnber, stucided with roses, and other devices, finely carved. In the east ■window of the further north aisle, are some pcilcct. remains of painted glass, with which the church was profusely decorated : in the higher compartments is an assemblage of female figures, witn musical instru- ments ; anddispeised in other panes, tlie heads of nobles and ecclesiastics of eitner sex, delicately wrought." •■ The church contams several curious monuments. According to the returns under the population act, the number of inhabitants of this parish in 1801 amounted to 563. ; In the. parish of Stanton, about four miles before •we reach Monmouth, is the iu'».'i«, a considerable tmi- uence, upon the summit of which a Naval Temple Las been erected, to commemorate the victories of the English on tiie seas, particularly those during the 1 -it war. • About two miles and half from Stanton, on the road to Chepstow, is Newland, a pleasant village, built in the form of an irregular square round the church, inhabited by several respectable families. — The church is a, handsome spacious fabric, with a tower at the west end, ornamented with pinnacles and open- worked battlements. On the west side of the church-yard, is the Gram- mar-School, founded in lo32 by Edward Bell, Gent, with a house and endowment for a master, 'i here is also an Almshouse, founded by the same gentle- man for eight poor people. The inhabitants of this parish in !801 amounted to 2454. About a mile north-wesc from Newland was M 2 High- i3o GLCUCESTERSKIRE. High-Meadow, the seat of Lord Viscount Gage." — A mile and a half east\v ard from hence is, COLEI'ORD, A small market town, situated in the parish of Newlaud, to which it is a chapelry. I'he market day is on Friday, for which a charter was obtained in the reign of James I. And there are two annual /airs, viz. June tiie 20th, for wool, and December 5th, for cheese. "The original Market-Iioupe was destroyed during the Civil Wars in the reign of Charles I. and was not rebuilt until after the Resto- ration. Charles II. giving 401. towards the expen- ces. The chapel was also destroyed, and rebuilt in the time of Queen Anne, who contributed 3001. At LiDrRooK and Rederook, three miles from Coieford, there are very extensive iron forges, and a a furnace, and at Redbrook there is also an iron rol- ling-mil!. About four m.iles south from Coleford, ontheroad to Chepstow, is the village of St. Bkiavels, which is also the name of a castle and the hundred. This-- place was of greater extent formerly than at present, and had the privileges of a borough and market- tov%'n. The inhabitants at present possess no.ie of these ancient immunities, except the right of com- mon in a wood called H k d nil/ s and its purlieus, which include a tract of land on the banks of the Wye, about six miles long and one broad ; and of ' cutting wood but not timber in other parts of the forest. In the exercise of these rights the inhabitants of the parish obtain materials for making vast num- bers of lioops, pole^, &c. which are sent to Bristol, large quantities of hoops are also sent to the West India Islands. The Castle of St. Briavels was erected in the reign of Henry I. by Melo Fitz Walter, Earl of Hereford, to check the incursions of the Welch. It passed from that fanVily by forfeiture u> the crown, by whom its constables liave ever since been ap- pointed. TOPOGRAPKICAL DESCRIPTION. 137 jMDintetl. The north-west front, which is nearly the whole of the building that at present remains, con- sists of two circular towers, three stories high, sepa- rated by a narrow gateway. The towers coniain several liexagonal apartments, the walls of which are eight feet thick ; one of them used as a prison for the hundred. In another apartment, in the interior of the castle, the oificersof the hundred asstmbleto hold their courts. The chimney-piece in tais ruom has mouldings of curious but rude sculpture. 1 he scenery immediately around the castle is beautiful and romantic in a high degree. The church is an ancient building, in the form of a cross, with two narrow aisles. The Earl of Berkeley is lord of the manor and constable of the castle. Journey from Chepstow to Gloucester, through . Newnham. In the parish of ri/<^e«Atf?//, one mile and a half from Chepstow, at ia point of land called Beachiey, is the ferry over the Severn called the Aust or ola passage- Walter Mapeus relates a memorable transaction at this place : Edward the elder (sa}s he) lay at Aust Clieve, on the other side the water, and Leolin Prince of Wales at Bethersey (Bv^achley). The latter %vas t5i;mmoned to go across the Severn to a confer- ence with the king, which he refused to do ; upon ■which Edward passed over to Leolin, who on seeing the king in the boat threw his royal robes on tiie ground, which he had prepared to set in judgment with, and leaping breast higfi into the water, said •* Most wise king, your humility has conquered my pride, and your wisdom triumphed over my follv'; mount upon that neck which I have so fooli::[:!v ex- alted agaiubt you, so shall you enter mlo that coun- try which your goodness has this day made v our Own." Then taking him upon his sr.oa'dt-rs he made him sit upon his robes, and joijung bauds di4 hini liOiiiage. M 3 AlVLIxGTON 13;^ GLOUCESTERSHIKE, Alvikgton, or Aventon, as it is row called, is supposed by Camden to have been the Abone of the Komans. Tliis conjecture has not been sup« purled by the discovery of any Eoman anticjuities. Two miles from hence is Lidney, at present an inconsiderable town, but formerly of much greater importance, havnig possessed the privileges of a niarl^et and borough town. Tlie market, which was on Wednesday, has long been disused. Ihere are, however, two annual fairs held at this place : one on the 4th of May, the other on the 8th of No- vember. in this parish are the remains of a large Roman encampment, with the foundations of many ancient buildings, among which are the ruins of a Roman Hypocaust, or bath, of an oval form. A great number of Roman coins have also been found here, among which were many of Hadrian and Antoni- nus, and a silver one of Galba. Contiguous to Lidney is the seat of the Right Tlon. Charles Bragge Bathurst, called Lidney Park. The old mansion, called Whitecross, was erected by Sir William AVyntour, who was vice ad*- miral of England in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and to whom the manor had been granted for his gallant conduct in the defeat of the S])anish Arm- ada. Sir John Wyntour, during the Civil Wars for- tified this building against the parliament, and held it until the royal cause became desperate, when he " deserted, and fired the house." " Sir John/' observes Corbett, *' was a zealous papist, and sub- tile wit, that pretended innocency till his houre was come, and had almost persuaded the world that he durst deny himselfe, and commit an unpardonable sinne against the Catholike cause. His house in the Forest of Deane was at first neglected ; but un- der hand he prepared for defence, suddenly clapt in his own conhdxmts, and with a little labour made it inaccessable, but with apparent great losse, and maintained. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOy. 139 maintained his den as a plague of the forest, and a goad in the sides of this garrison." — Military Qovcr- fne/it of'Gloccsttr. NEWNHAM Is a small town, pleasantly situated on the banks of the Severn, which is here nearly a mile in width, at high-water. This place was anciently one of the five boroughs of the county, and was then governed by a mayor and burgesses ; at present by two beams or conslables. A sword of state, the gift of King John, is still preserved in testimony of former greatness : it is of polished steel, highly ornamented, and of exqui- site workmanship. The Quay was built about fifty years ago by one oftiie Pyrke family. It will admit vessels of 150 tons burthen. Here is a very safe ferry over the Severn to Arlingham on the opposite side. The market day is on Friday, and tiiere are two fairs viz. on the 1 1th of June and the 18th of Octo- ber. The inhabitants, in number about 1000, are prin- cipally emploved in a verdigrease manufactory, and ship-building, which is carried on to a small extent. At Aylsford, in this parish there are extensive forges for working bar iron andiron wire. Little Dean is a very inconsiderable town, on the verge of the Forest of Dean ; it formerly had a mar- ket and a curious Market Cross is standing in the middle of the town : round the shaft of the cross is a low octangular roof; the upper part is terminated by a carved pinnacle, with small niches and statues. The principal business of this place is the manu- facture of nails, which are esteemed to be better made than at any other place in the kingdom. Tlie church is a spacious and handsome struc-* ture, containing some fragments of finely painted e:lass. The J40 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. The Forest of Dean, wliich we have ah-eady par- ticularly noticed in our aiticle upon the agriculture of the county, as far as relates to its extent, present situation, and produce, is divided into six walks, known by the respective lodges built for so many keepers, each of which, besides a salary of 151. per annum, paid out of the Exchequer, has an inclosure of ground for his further encouragement: the -names of the lodges are. 1. The King's Lodge, usually called the SpeechHouse, between King's Cotteli and Daniel's Moor. 2. York Lodge, at the upper end of Lurnbard's Marsh. 3. Worcester Lodge, upon VVinshury Hill. 4. Dunby Lodge, upon the old Barley Hill, near Lid- ney. 5 Herbert Lodge, upon Ruer dean Hill, 6. Latmorc Lodge, upon Dancnieun Hill, not far from the Beacon. There are also four verdurers of the forest, elected by the freeholders of the county, by virtue of the king's writ, directed to tiie high sheriff fof that purpose ; and in the time of King Canute their fee *was yearly of the king's allowance, two horses, one of wliich was saddled, one sword, five javelins, one spear, one shield, and lOl. in money. The Gaveller is an officer apppomted by the con- stable of the castle. 1 his oflicer receives, by way of perquisite or fee, a small sum, of the miners, called the King's dues, and gives some directions concern- ing minmg. The hrst officer of this description was in 1660, Mr. Rudder says, ** he lakes his name from Gabel, the Anglo-Saxon word for tribute ; but he more likely derives it from t!ie French word Gabelje, a custom : hence Gabellier or (Gaveller ; Gabellier weaning the receiver of such custom, or custom^ house otiicer." There are three courts, common to all forests. I, TiiC court of attiiciijjiCiit, held Oiice in forty dayg. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 141 davs, which receives the attachment of Vert and VeniiKtn, taken by the rest of the officers, and enroll them for presentment at the next justice seat for punislnTient. '2. The Court of Swanimote, held before the verdurers, as judges, thrice in the year. This court can both enquire and convict, but cannot give judf^ment. These two courts were anciently held at the Speech Eouse before mentioned. 3. The Justice Seat Cou'^t, v/Jiich is the highest, cannot be kept oftener than every third year, it is held before the Chief Justice in Eyre, and has jurisdiction to enquire, liear, and determine, all the trespasses within the forest ; and all claims of fian- ch'ses, privil-eges, and liberties, relative thereto : and before its being held the regarders must go through and visit the whole forest in order to pre- sent all kinds of trespasses. Besides these three courts, tliC hundred of St. Briave! ;, being in the crown, retains the privileges of a court-leet, which is held at the castle, where there ure also two other courts held of peculiar na- tures. First, the Court of Record, held for the castle, m.anor, and hundred of St. Briavels, be- fore the constable or his deputy, and the suitors of the manor, for trying ail personal actions, of what- ever value, arising within the hundred, and levying lines of lands in the same. All processes are is- sued in the name of the constable or his defluty. The Other is the Mine-Law-Court, for trying all causes between the miners, &:c. concerning the mines. It is to be held before the constables as steward of the court, or his deputy ; besides whom none are to be present but the gaveller, castle- clerk, and free miners, who must be natives of the hundred of St. Briavels, and have worked in some oi tlie mines at least one year and a day. The parties and witnesses are sworn upon a bible, ■ u which a piece of holly stick is put ; and are obliged i42 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. obliged to wear the hoof, or working cap, on ihe'it heads during examination. Causes tried in this court are not determined by the Forest Laws, or by any written laws of the realm, but by such as are peculiar to itself. The miners execute the le- gislative power, and make new laws for tneir conve- nience as oiten as they see necessary. The privileges of the forest are very extensive :" the free miners claim a right, by prescription, of draggnig iron ore and coal ui the forest, and of car- rying ilieir coal work begun there, into the inclosed hands adjoiriing. Also to cut timber out of the forest, necessary to carry on their works, as well on the lands of private per>ons as in the King's soil. At Flax-lev, a small village, two miles from Little Dean, Roger, the second son of the Earl of Hereford, after tne Conquest, bu^lt an abbey in the time of King Stephen, for Cistercian monks, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Henry il. was a great benefactor to this abbey, granting to it seve- ral neighbouring manors, together with an iron forge in the forest of Dean, and two oaks weekly to sup- ply it with fuel. 'Ihis laiter grant was afterwards revoked by Henry HI and a wood since called Ahbnt's Woo:/, given in lieu ot the former j)rivilege. "The manuiactory isstiU carried on, and the iron is esteemed particularly good; but us goodness does not arise from any extiaordmary -qualities of tiie ore, but from the practice of tiie working of the furnace and forges with charcoal wood, without any mixture of pit-coal. The quantity of charcoal required is so considerable, that the furnace cannot be kept in blow more than nine months successive- ly. Lancashire ore, which is brought to Newnham by sea, furnishes the principal sujjjjly : a ton ot it in the furnace recjuires fifteen or sixteen sacks of charcoal. When the furnace is at work, about twenty tons a week are reduced to pig-iron : in this slate it is carried to the forges, where about eight ^ TOFOGRAPHIC/\L DESCRIPTION, 1 4.3 eight tons a week are hammered out into bars^ ploud;hsiiares, &c. ready tor the smith. The wheels vvaich work the bellows and hammers, are turned by a poweiful stream of water, which rises at St. Auihoni/s 1^^/.', and, alter passms^ the works, falls into a large bason, and at length empties itself inio the Severn near Newnnam." — kudge'a G/ouceS' tershire. Vol. il. />. 90. At the bappression it had nine monks in it, whose yearly revenues were rated at 1121. 9s. id. The site of this abbey was granted in 1345 to Sir Anthony Kingston. Tne estate now belongs to Sir Thomas Crawley Bowey, Bart. At Westbury, eight miles from Gloucester, there are two churches in one church-yard. \\ e meet with nothirig during the residue of this journey recjuiring particular notice. Journty from (jioucmi er to iinth, through WoitoU" wnkt-Kdi^e. At Haresfield, about six miles from Gloucester, the church contains three ancient recumbent hgures, under arcades, of a croisader, and two females, sup- posed to belong to the family of the De Rohuns, Earls ol Hereford, who possessed a castle at Hars&- comb, atything in this parisli. A iiigh ridge of hills, by which Haresfield is shel- tered on the east, called Bivad RUlge, or Broad Barrow Green, is ** the site of a very singular camp, the tirsl division of which is made by a single vallum, 13 feet high, and OO.) yards in length from one side of the liill to tlie otiier. It i* thought to have been a British station alter the Roman inva- sion. 1 he very bold piomontory called the Bem^on liill, inclosed by a transverse valfatum 30 feet deep, and containing 13 acres, is connected with the for- mer ; but in tlie parish of Standish, a spot resemb- ling a Pro-torum is still apparent, on which, proba- bly, the beacon was afterwards placed." — Bi^lund's Giouceaterahirc. About 144 GLOUCESTERSKIRL. About four miles from hence it King's Stanley^ or Stanley Regis, at present a large village, suppo- sed to have been anciently the residence of one of the Mercian kings. According to the returns under the population act, the number of inhabitants of tlu3 parish in 1801, amounted to 1434, of which iha greater part Lve employed in spinning and other branches of the clothing manufacture. " At King's Stanley," says Mr. Gough, " is a Roman camp, two miles from which were lately found eight Roman altars uninscribed ; but having on one face a Roman soldier, and one of them tiie genius with a cornucopia, and a patera on an altar ; also a large brass of Alexander Severus, reverse a soldier with a spear and branch. TR. P. \l. COS. III." Stanley St. Leonard is a small clothing town, that formerly had a market, and was of some conse- quence ; but in the year 1686 it became so reduced by a dreadful fire that it has never recovered. A prioi-y of Benedictines, dedicated to St. Leo- nard, was founded here by Roger de Berkeley, in the year 1146, of which tliere are still some small remains. The church tower is of a singular construction, having a double wall, with a passage and recesses betv/een them. < About a mile and a half west from Stanley St. Leonard, is Frovvcester, another small village, most agreeably situated at tlie foot of a high hill, which shelters it from the east winds, and from its summit commands a very extensive prospect. *' On the left is Camley Pike, of a volcanic shape, and the bold projecting head of Stinchcombe; in the foreground, two expanded reaches ot the Se- vern. The intermediate distances between the forest hills, the blue mountains of Malvern, and the turrets at Gloucester, are filled up with cultivated fields, village churches, and buildings of various descriptions. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 145 Tlescriptions, amoiig which the castle and tower of 13eikelcy, with iheir lolly battleniems, are easily dliitiiiguished." Cameridge, a village, situated on a small river .called the C am, is remarkable for a battie fought between the Danes and .Saxons, in the reign of £d- ■ward the elder, in which the tormer were defeated. Three mites from hence, is DUUSLEY, A considerable clothing tov/n, and a place of great anlicjuity, being one of the live boroughs re- turned by the Sheiifl of the county in the reign of Edward 1. but it has long lost the privilege of send- ing members to parliament. The municipal govern- ment of the towii is- vested in a bailifi, chosen an- nually. Tlie town consists of two narrow streets, forming sometiiing like the letter T, wuh a hamlet,, without the borough, containing more houses than either of them. The Market House is a handsome building of free-stone, erected in tiie year 1736. 'i'liC Church is an elegant structure, consisting of a spacious nave, side aisles, and chancel, witli a tower of modern gothic at the west end. ** The dividing arches (of the interior) are light ; carved on the timber frame roof are the arms of Berkeley and Fitzalan, and the device of I'homas 1 ANNLK, wlio in the reign of Henry VI. erected a chapel at the end of the south aisle, for the recep- tion of a ciiantry, \n which is theligureof a skeleton, beneath a, canoj;y, intended as a memorial of him ; it is probable tnat he contributed to the external embelUshment ofthe whole south side of the cliurch, which is in the best style of that age. The old ip\\(t fell in 1()99, ^vhile the bells were ringing, by which accident several livc^ were lost ; it was re- built and iinisliod in 1700, at the expence of lOOOl. Tiie chancel was likewise re-erected ia 173S, and neaiiv iitted. up. N " On 146 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. ** On the south-east side of the chiirch-vard, some springs arise out of the ground, Hke hoiUng water, in so copious a manner, as to drive a fulhng mill, at about a hundred yards distance below ; and are never known to diminish in quantity. At their rise they cover a fine level gravelly bottom, for about 1j feet square, with nearly two feet of water, wherefore the inhabitants call rl Broad Well, but furliier buck than the time of Henry III, it was- called Ewclme. This is a Saxou word, signifying the head of a spring; and it is conjectured that tl)is re- markable water gave name to the town; as in Bri- tish Dr/,r, is water; and Ley, Lcgr, Lciia, are com- mon appellations for pasture grounds, particularly in elevated situations." The number of inhabitants in tliis parish, accord- ing to the returns under the population act in 1801, amounted to 2379. Contiguous to th.e town are the remains of a rock of To/vfe, or Tuff Stone, which we have before no- ticed as remarkable for its extreme durability, and for being so easily cut when first got up. I'he fos- sil productions of this and the adjacent parishes are very numerous. I'he celebrated Edward Fox, Bishop of Hereford, '' the principal pillar of the Reformation, as to the politic and prudential part thereof," was a native of i^ursley. At Kynley, or Kinline, in the parish of Nymps- f:eid, three miles east of Dursley, there was a P?io7y, founded before the Conquest, and endowed with the manor. It was dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and afterwards ..became a college, or free cliapel of secular priests. The priory house still remains. Two miles south-east' from Nympsfield, is Hors- LEY, or Horkesley, formerly a market town, where a priory was founded for Benedictine Monks, by Roger Montgomery, Earl of Shrew sburv, a cell to the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. l47 the Aljbey of St. Martin, at IVuard, in Normandy, and allerwards made subject to bruton, in Somer- setshire, with which it was granted by Edward VI. to Sir Walter Denys. Ali tliat remains of this priory is an ancient gateway standing near the church. ,1a IbOl the number of inhabitants of this parish amounted to 29/1. vvor roN uxder edge, ■ Is a populous well-built town, agreeably situated at the foot of a ridge of woody hills, four miles from i^ursley. I'lie cloUi manufactory is carried on to a very considerable extent in tliis town and neigh- bourhood ; one house alone employing near 4U00 persons. Tiic-^ Church is a handsome spacious fa- bric, containing many curious monuments. Here a-i-e two Free-Schools liberally endowed. The market is on Friday, and there is a fair on the 15th of September. Hugh Ferry, Esq. an alderman of Lcnuon, in 1632, not only brouglit water to this town at his own charge, but gave lOOOl. to purchase lauds lor erecting and endowing an aims-iiouse, for six poor men antl six women, and for establishing a' weekly lecture in the church. The number of inhabitants of this parish in ISOi, amounted to 13iS9. Aldelllv, near Wotton under Edge, is a parish only hve miles in compass, lying on the side of a liill, between two rivulets, which join and tall into the Avon. .The parisli church is a handsome struc- ture, with a tower that lius curious pinnacles, \hi-- ble at a considerable distance. Tlie celebrated h)ir Matthew Hale was a native of this v;llai;e, and lies buried in the church. From Alderiey we proceed on our journey through Chippen Sodbury, on the road which we have already descril)cd, until we reach jMAUSHFiELD, A small 'market town, on tiie borders of the N 2 county 14S GLOUCESTERSHIRE, county next Somersetshire and Wiltshire. It con* sists chierly of one street of old buildings, nearly a mile long, and is governed by a bailiif. It is a clothing tawn, and there is also a considerable quantity of malt made here for the consumption of Bath and Bristol. There is a good Charity School at this place, and a well endowed Aims-house for eight poor people. The Cliurcii is a spacious and handsome fabric. Marshiiekl is about six miles from B;\th, from Bris- tol r.^, and from Gloucester 3t). The parish is It) miles in compass. At a place called the Rocks, near tl)e town, are tliree sliire stones, to mark the limits of the coun- ties of Gloucester, Wilts, and Somerset, where they meet in a point. Three miles north-west from Marshfield, in the road from Ikth to Gloucester, is Dirham, where a bloody battle was fought between the Riitons and tiie Saxons, in which tne Britons wereidefeated, and three of their kings killed. Journey from Giouceder to Cawpden, through Cheltenhaw. Between Gloucester and Cheltenham, at PiiFs Elm Turnpike (where there is a beautiful elm tree, worthy of notice), to the right is a field in Boding- ton Manor Farm, where was a remarkable large oak, which for several centuries was celebrated by historians, and atlracted the attention of travellers ; but 00 the evening of the iGlh of November 1790 it was maliciously set on lire, and tccall} consumed. Its dimensions were as follows : The length • 00 feet. Tlic circumference of the bortom . . .')(.• The smalltst part of the trunk . . . oi Its age, on record, above 500 years. In tlie hamlet of Barrow, in Boddington parish, is a. little conical hill, which from its resemblance to a tumulus. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION". 1 45 tumulus, gave name to the hamlet. From the top of this hill, in a clear day, is a distmct view of 3(? parish churches. CHELTENHAM Is chielh^ celebrated on account of its mineral waters, and is supposed to derive its name from the liver Chelt, which runs past it on the south side, pursuing its course towards the Severn, which it joins, at VVainlode. The town principally consists of one long street, pleasantly situated in a iine fertile vale, near the foot of Cotswold Hills. The town has been very much improved during the last 20 years, and is now veil paved and lighted, I'he Church is a venerable Gothic structure, ia t-he form of a cross, with aisles on each side, and a spire rising in the centre. The great and small tithes of the parish are the property of the Earl of Es^^ex. The officiating minister is a curate, chosen by the inhabitants, and approved by the Earl of Gainsborough, or tlie representative of Sir Baptist Kickes. 'i he curate must be a \Velchman by birtlj, a batchelor, and of Jesus College, Oxford. Cheltenham has a plentiful market on Thursday, and three annual fairs, viz. on the second Thursday in April, Holy Thursday, and 5th day of Au^ust. 1 he Spring, o: Spa, is situated very conveniently iiear the town. The walk to It is through the church-yard, under a tine alcove of lime trees, and from thence in a serpentine direction, through orchards anti gardens, until we arrive at a beautiful meadow. Here we cross a rivulet, and enter the grand walk, which by a gentie acclivity leads to the buildings. This walk is 20 feet wide, and the elm trees, on each side, are at least t;0 feet high. The pump appears under a dome, through a light and elegant archway with two posterns ; it is sup- ported by pillars. On the right is the library an(l ©dices_, on the left the l;)reakfasling room. Ilound K 3 " the 150 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. the buildings is a shrubbery, upon a gentle ascent, and a walk round it with seats. The spring rises out of a mixed loamy and sandy soil, the same on which the town stands, and tor ten miles round it. It was discovered by a slow spring being ob- served to oose from a strong thick bluish clay or marie, under the sandy soil, which after spreading itself a few yards upon the surface, disappeared leaviiig much of its salts behind ; to feed on which flocks of pigeons daily coming, induced Mr. Mason, tlie then proprietor of the ground, to take more particular notice of it ; when it was fur- ther renvarked, that in hard frosty weatiier, wl;en other springs were ia-.t bound, tliis alone continued in its fluid state. Upon trial it was found to be cathartic. Others- ai^ain say that the virtues of this water were first shewn on a horse which grazed there, and by drinking at tiiis place 'and rolling himself in the grass where t!)e spring oosed out, was cured of a violent humour and other disorders he laboured under. Even now some gentlemen give it their horses that have aiiy humours ; they drink it very willingly, and usually receive benefit from it- Tiie ground was originally tiie property of Mr. Higgs, of Charlton Kings ; he soid it with the ad- joining lands to Mr. Mason, who discovered the spring in 171 6, which for some time after its disco- very was (;pen, and the people of the town and- and neighbourhood drank of it. In the year 17iS it was railed in, locked up, and a litlle shed thrown over it ; and in consequenc>; of some experiments made on the water by Dr. Baird, of Worcester, and £)r. Grevil, of Glooester, its virtues became more generally known, and it was sold as a medicine till the year 1721. when leased to Mr. Spencer at 6ll. per annum. After the decease of Mr. Mason and hi? son, Capt. TOPOGrvAPHICAL DESCRIPTION'. 151 Capt, Henry Skillccorne, becoming proprietor of the spring and premises, in right of his \vife, thft daugiiter ol" Mr. Mason, in the summer of 1738, not only b-ailt the old room on the west side for the drinkers, with otiier necessary conveniences, but secured the spring from all extraneous matter ; erected a square brick building on four arches, as a dome over it, with a pump on the east side rising in form of an obelisk. The weil, in the centre of this dome, being the neatest and perhaps the best secured of any oi the kind, is about five or six feet below the surface, close shut down with doors to exclude th<; freedom of the air. At the same time lie laid out the paved court about it, formed the up- per and lower v, alks, planted the trees, and was continually improving the natural beauties of the place, to render it worthy the very numerous re- spectable compar.ies which at that period resorted to it ; and which increased in the year 1740, on tlie publication of the experiments made on it by Dr. Short, inserted in his treatise on Waters ; where calling it a I^ailral Pur^int:: Ciiaiijbcutc Water, he deservedly gives it the preference to all others of the same kind yet discovered in England ; and says, that excepting the Stoke v.ater, it carries the great- est proportion of salt in the same volume. In the Philosophical Transactions, No. 46l,p. 83(», anno 174,1, is an examination of the Chellen-' ham mineral water, by Conrad us Hieronymus Senckenberg, but which seems to differ very much from the examinations made since of this water. It is not at all surprising that Senckenberg could not iind there was any iron in this water, having made the experiment in London, where the chalybeate particles must have been lost by carriage ; indeed tiiey are equally so if the water is drank at the k-ast distance from the spring ; for which reason those" who w'sl\ to benefit by the chalybeate, drink it in manv suiall glasses at the well, and iiiiii it 132 ■ GLCUCES-fERSnillV. it answer the purpose, as in larger glasses it files oil b'.fore the whole is tv^ke^i. The existence of iron in this water is fully proved by l>r. I'othergill in nis ingenious experimental en- quiry into the nature and qualities of the Chelten- ham water, 1783; where from the experiment^ No. 1, with tincture of galls, he produced a vivid purpie, uhich by standing grev/ darker, inclihiiig to a dusky green,* with' variegated pellicles on the sur- face. Remarking, that if a ela^s of the water be exposed to the open air, it entirely loses the tlDi;- ing property in half an hour, and with it its smart- ness on the palate. • Mr. Cromwell "Mortimer, in his remarks ■on Seuckenberg's exauilnation, same No. F^^ilosOphi- cal Transactions, ai^iio 1741, observes, that Lord Cadogan had communicated a short accomit of this water to the Royal !!iociety, April 17th 173V, beiui^ a letter from Mr. Thomas Dundass, surgeon to his lordship's regiment, dated Gloucester, March 25tk 1733, giving an account o\ some experiments he had made on tliis water, which mostly agree with those made by Senckeuberg, owing, no doubts to their beirig made at a distance from the well. • But Dr. Fothergiii, wlio in his experiments witli syru]) of violets, says it produced a green colour, ■which Senckenberg denies, fu.rtlier adds, experi- ment 22, that a gentleman who had long frequented (Cheltenham bpa, having preserved two bottles ef the water 22 years as a matter of curiosity, request- ed to exan^iine it. *'The water on being poured out into a glass ^as clear and perfectly free from any bad odour. It iurned Hi/rt(p of rwUtfi ^rcc(i,\\. ta'^ted llat, and had ijntirely lost its tinging properly with galls, a;jreea- hly to what he had expected ; as it equally had in two bottles he had fresh drawn from the spring, ^\ell corked and sealed, which he examiaed six Weeks aftcj his return to Bath." ' TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 153 Dr. Short also in his experiment, §,xiii. 4. observes^ that the water t;iken from the surlace ot the well or deeper, recently drawn, by the addition ot a few drops cf infusicn of galls, as \2 to 2 oz. strikes a pale but vivid purple instantly ; but being by any lueaiis exposed to the air, or even secured in a bot- tle by the closest orcVrnary corking/r^r o few huum gives no indication of its being chalybeate. — A strong argument for drinking water at the well only. Since which Doctors Linden, Lucas, Russel, Huttey, Hulme, Smith, Mr. Barker, and others, have examined it. By their several experiments, and its effects on many persons of various constitutions, in diflerent distempers, it is found on evaporation to contain in a gallon eight drams of nitrous salt, v/ith two drams of an alkaline earth ; tliat it consists of a large quantity of calcareous nitre, (native Sal Cath-. articum Amarum) to which it owes its purgative virtue ; a light sulphur, manifested by its fetid de- jections ; and a votatile steel. It is not affected by alkaline spirits, but ferments with acids. Some other materials miglit perhaps be found in its com- position if more minutely examined and tortured ; but the principles already mentioned are so evi- dent and incontestible, as to account for all its ope- rations and effects ; tlie others being of little efini- caey, a discussion of them would be mere loss of lime. And were any thing still necessary to esta- blish its reputation, nothing can more elYectually answer this purpose, than the almost incredible cures which have been elfected by it within these few years, that it has been more resorted to than ever; which must lix the standard of this excellent water, and justify the preference given it by Dr. Short, it having been proved that when drank on the spot, it in general, as a diluter, corrects all sorts of acrimony ; as a diuretic and cathartic, car- ries 154 ■ GLOUCESTEHSHIRE. rics it off; attenuates viscid humours, dries, deterge?;, and cleanses. It also cools, not only as a diuretic and catiiarlic, but as an alterative used in small doses. its* peculiar excellency is, tlie mildnes, certainty, and expedition of its operation ; being a niv^st commodious purge for those tliat do not bear strong carthatics, consequently in hypochondriac and scorbutic cases ; neither d jes it agitate the blood, or ferment the humours so much as com- mon purges ;Js friendly to tiiestoinucli,!ess heating, less windy, and less apt to leave a worse constitu- tion behind it: works otTwitiiOut lieat, thrist, or drwie^s of the mou'di, sickness, gripings, fatiunes^^ or dejection of the spirits ; but rattier mcreases tlie appetite, and strengthens the stoma^.h, ajid irOm its astringent quality it is to be concluded that it not only dilutes and carries olf viscous' humours, but by strengthing the vessels, and restoring the lojt lone of the solid parts, it enables them to resist a fresh afiHux of the same. : 't is particularly effitacious in ail bilious com- plaints, obstructions of tiic liver and soJeen, ob- structed perspiration, loss of appetite, bad digestion, and all disorders of the primal via^; in iiabitual cos- tiveness, and obstinate obstructions, the foundatioit of many chronic diseases, as colics, iliac passion, and hernia^, for whicli, vviien reduced by boiling one third or one half, and drank warm, it is superior to all otiier remedies, and will operate when most other medicines fail. And tliose who on long jour- nies, and in summer, are apt to be costive, will, by taking two or three drams of the salt in lukewarm b;j)ring water, keep themselves soU;l)le and very cooL It restores a relaxed habit; whether from long re- >idence in a hot climate, free living, use of mercu- rials, or any other causes. In rhemnatic, scrophu- lous, erysipelous, scorbutic, leprous cases, but esj)f- c'aliy in spermati<\, and hemorriioidai ; in disorders TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION\ 13 5 of the urinary passages, andparticuiarly the kklnies* which it cleanses, corroborates, and trees from obi siructions ; and in those tormenting pains of tlic hips and lumber muscles, proceeding from a lodge- ment of hot scorbutic salts, it is sovereign, and not to be equalled. It givtis quk^t nights in nephritic and gouty coniplaints, when not under the lit. Musgrave ob-ierves, that ti\ese kind of waters are part cularly adapted to gouty and melancholic sub- jects, because of the miklness and certainty of their operation; havir,g this peculiar excellence, that tiiey do not, as the drastic purges, agitate the blood, and bring on the gout. Tills water kills worms, and expels the nidus, the humours in which tlx^y lodge ; and also cures verti- go, convulsions, pains of the head, pustules, and itching^ which proceeds from vitiated humours set- tled in the prima vue, or larger secretory vessels ; extending its virtues to the habit of body, it depu- rates the mass of blood from scorbutic impurities, and cures pimples, heats in the face, hands, or feet (indications of heat in the viscera), especially if re- rtpeated more seasons than one, as generally is the case. In complaints incident to the fair sex at an early period, owing to a too languid circulation or otheV weakness (often the commencement of most fatal disorders) this water should be immediately resort- ed to, and it:, efficacy will justify the assertion, as also to prevent heats, llatulence, pains of the back, tumours of the feet, &c. proceeding from a redun- dance of the blood at a later stage of life ; for which latter reason it is ecjually useful to studious sedenta- ry men belweon forty afid lifty, falling into the like disorders; but in tliese cases it must be drank long and more Iil>i>rally, to take of the redundant humi- dity, and restore the lost -tone of the parts. in a diabetes, this water or its salts, moving very easily and cooling much, is of ail otiier-i the most s.ife 156 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. safe and only purge when gentle evacuation is ne- cessary ; and cures have been done in such cases. Some recommend it as most salutary inailintlam- matory cases, in whatever part ; but they who have such compianUs ought to act witii great caution, and not without previous advice; as cireum.stances may every day occur to n^nder it absolutely ne- cessary. Great cures have also been done by this water in violent milamations, and other disorders ot the eyes, Avhicn must only be washed (by dabbing) at the spring, but not rubbed, or by putting some of the water in an eye-cup, and applying it, using the water internally at the same tmie. It is not possible to lay doivn a rule for what quantity ougnt to be taken by people of diflerent constitutions, or a. length ot time for a course of these waters : some caii only bear two or tiiree glasses in a mornu.g, while others drink three or four, and even so far as seven or eight half pints before breakfast. As to tiiC time of drinking them, some stay only a fortnight, or three weeks: but the usual stay is from a month to nve or six weeks; thougli some have taken them for ten weeks, and even longer ; for, after liaving despaired uf success at lirst, they have by per-icverence wrought the desired cure. All which proves still more how necessary it is to consult uccasionally with some of the faculty upon the spot. In tne uit;an time the following general lieads may be b«^rved in addition to what has been said: To begin, moderately, by taking a iialf pint gla^s going to bed, it having the peculiar quality of )\n)gall night in the body without disturbing it, or impeding rest ; but goes oif the next morning witii great facility, especially if the lirst glass drank at the well has tiie chill taken off for a few days, till the stomach becomes accustomed to it ; if a small quantity on the lirst morning should not have the dciiired TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 157 desired effect, as may sometimes be the case before the foulness of the passages is removed, the next morning half an ounce of the salt extracted from .the water may be taken, dissolved in a small glass of it, drinking one or two small glasses with the chill off, at proper distances after it ; thus the body- will be so prepared, that the quantity may be gra- dually increased, till its operation as a carthatic is found to have the desired effect. ' A good way would be when obstructions are re- moved, to drink the water three or four days as a purgative, then a day or two in a smaller quantity, then return to the purgative, sometimes omitting drinking any ; which will be more likely to do good than the present mode of drinking it in large quan- tities every day for a month or six weeks, which has been known to do harm ; whereas, by giving the stomach some relaxation, people would be better able to judge of the benefit they receive. Dr. Fothergill in his treatise says, "It may not however be improper to observe in general, that the NEUTRAL SALT is the basis wherei^i the purga- tive and diuretic qualities of this water principally reside. T he virtues of this agree with those of the artificial Glauber's salt, but its superior solubility renders it a more active purgative, and this quality is greatly heightened by copious dilution. Hence a quarter of an ounce of the salt, contained in a quart of the water, operates more briskly than dou- ble the quantity when dissolved only in two ounces of water. Hence too we see the impropriety of the common purging drafts, which directs an ounce of Glauber salt to be dissolved in two ounces of wa- ter, a quantity too small to retain in it in a state of solution, or to promote its due operation. The Cheltenham salt being prepared in considerable quantity from the watei at the Spa, in a portable form, its crystals may be preserved in bottles, un^ impaii-ed by time, and mav be usefully employed O 'at ^8 GLOUCESTES.SHIRE. at a distance from the sprinii;, as a safe and g'.^ntle purgative. It may also allord an useful substitute for the water itself in inflammatory or hectic dis- orders, where the chalybeate principle might be deemed improper. By adjusting the dose, it may be determined to operate as a brisk purgative^ or mild laxative and diuretic, and may therefore be added occasionally to quicken the operation of the water, when it passes olT too slowly ; or may be dissolved in a small quantity, where large draughts of cold -.vater are deemed improper, as in hydro- pic and'leucophlegmatic habits. '^The Sea-Salt, though very minute in quantity, may, when largely diluted^, contribute it?> share to the purgative and diuretic effects of tiie other sa'ane ingredients. And as this salt has the singular pro- perty of passing, unaltered in its nature, through the several stages of circulation ; and after all,- of being recoverable from the blood and urine of ani- mal bodies ; its deobstruent effects in the remote parts of the frame may be more considerable than nas been generally imagined. Does not4he known efficacy of sea water in this respect, even when drank in small quantities as an alterative, tend to corroborate this opinion? *'The Iron combined with the Aerial-Acid, constitutes an active saline chalybeate; which contributes to Marm and invigorate tiie system, and to promote appetite and digestion. "The Un-neutkalized Magnesia, as a laxa- tive and absorbent, tends to correct acidities, and vitiated bile in the first passages, and to pro- mote their expulsion. ** Whether the Calcareous or Selenetic-Mat- TER impart any useful medicinal quality to this or any other-water, seems at least very ))roblematical. Inert substances of this nature pass with difiicuhy through the finer series of vessels, and can scarcely be subdued hv the animal fluids." The TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 159 The water may, however, be taken oecasionally in the winter at a distance from tiie spring, provided it be warmed, and care taken not to expose one's self to tJie cold air during its operation; which will be stronger and more immediate, if the bottled wa- ter be boiled gently till one-third of the quantity is evaporated. . According to the returns under. the population act, the numb^u" of. inhabitants of Chelteniiaiu ia 1801 amounted to 3,0;4. .SouTHAM, about three miles from Cheltenham, is a large tithing, in tiie parisii of Clieve, wherein 'J^homas Bagshot De la Bere, E^q. who is lord of the manor, i)as a fine seat, called Southam-House. i his ediiice is one of the greatest curiosities in tiie county: it is a low buuding, in the stile of the age •of Henry IV. but, according to Leland, must have been erected in the early part of the reign ©(Henry yiii. audit still remains in it, origir.al state. At iiisHOPs Cleeve, thqre was anciently a small fraternity of monks, esiablished about tiie year 790. U'he Ciiurch is a curious and spacious structure, of vari'.i, extendmg .>J0 yard-, along the sum- mit of tlie rock, in the form of a crescent, and inac- cessible on every side but thefront. 'i he views troni this place are remarkably hue. The ascent from the foot of (.'leeve Cloud to the to}) of the eminence being G30 feet perpendicular. WlNCllCOMBE Is a populous town, six miles from C^hcltenham, \ --ry bvjautifuUy situated at the base of several hilis, wilii the little river Isborne ilowmg n.ar it on the south-east. According to Leland, the town was d;icivn11v v.-alied round, and in the time of the Sax- o 2 ons 166 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. oiis was a county of itself. Kenuiph, king of Mer- cia, bad a palace here in the eighth century ; he also founded a monastery in the place, whose abbot sat in parliament as a baron ; but not the least ves- tage now remains of its former grandeur. The government of the town, or borough, as it is still called, is vested in two bailiffs, chosen annu- ally. The market is on Saturday, and there are three annual fairs, viz. the last Saturday in March, May, t), and July 28. In 1801 the number of inhabitants of this place amounted to 1,256. About a quarter of a mile from Winchcomb are the ruins of SuDh:LEY or Sudley Castle, which was once aplaceoi great strength and magnificence, and supposed to have been built in th'- fourteenth century, by Ralph de Boteler, a powerful baron of that period. It is now the property of Lord Rivers. In that part of the castle wiiich is still kept in re- pair is an elegant chapel, in which the live first lords of Chandos are interred. About two miles north-east from Winchcombe are the remains of Hales Abbey, erected in 1246, by Richard Earl of Cornwall, king of the Romans, in consequence of a vow he had made at sea when in great danger. Hales Abbey is very beautifully situated in a rich meadov/, sludtered on the north and east sides by high hills covered with wood. At BucKLAND, about six miles from Winch- combe, the Church is entitled to some notice, on account of its antiquity, and some beautiful painted glass, v;hich is contained in the east window of the chancel, executed with such brilliancy of colouring and correctness of outline, that it must have been done when the art had gained its utmost perfection. About tv,'0 miles norih of Buckland is Child's WiCKHAM. This parish being a peculiar, the lord of the manor, by ancient custom, entertains the bishop TOrdGrv.APHICAL DESCRIPTION. l6l bisliop and archdeacon upon the visitation, at the manor-house ; providing them v.ith a cake, a loaf, a pound of butter, a quarter of a sage cheese, a quar- ter of a plain cheese, a dozen of ale, and six bottles of strong beer. Another custom ot this manor has been inimt;morialiy observed at Whitsuntide, when t-i)e lord " tarnishes a certain quantity of malt for ale to be given away, and flour to make cakes . At the same time, every one tliat keeps a cow, sends curd: others send sugar, plumbs, and llour; and the land-holders contribute sixpence each : from t-lus fund every poor person in the parish may re- ceive a quart of ale, a cake, a piece of cheese, and a cheese-cake." At Saintbury, two miles before we reach Camp- den, there is a camp, called Castle Bank, above die church. According to Mr. Gough, this appears to have been dependent on another very large one, liigher up on the top of a hill, encloshig nearly 00 acre's, in the parish of West Cleyns. Ihey s,are both ascribed to the Danes, CAMPDEN, ' - A place of great antiquity, is situated near the extremity of the county, in a fertile valley, sur- rounded by tineiy cultivated hills. It is a borough and corporate town,. having a charter from James 1. by which the municipal government is vested in two bailiffs, 12- capital, and 12 inferior burgesses, a stew- ard, &c. All the Saxon kings are said to have held a con- gress here in 689, to consult on the mode of carry- ing on the war with the- Britons, . I'he Church is an elegant Gothic edifice, con' sistingofa spacious nave, 60 feet high, wiih an aisle on each- side, a chancel and a tower, at the west end, 120 feet high ; at the east end of each aisle is a chapel ; that on the south side is the burial place of the tamilies of Hickes and Noel. '' To the munilicence of tiic wool uierchants, in ' o 3 tlie 162 GLOUCESTERSHIRE. the flourishing period above mentioned, it is pro- bable that this iaeautitul building owed its erection : 'jeveral of them are here interred, with brass effi- gies and memorials. From a grey marble flat stone in tlie church, for William Grevil, who died in 1401, on whicli he and his wife are represented, by brass plates, standing in two niches, adorned with pinna- cles, and exactly corresponding with the fine Gothic carved work over the great door and belfry win- dows, at the west side of the tower, it is conjectured that Grevil either built, or contributed largely, to the building of the latter; and a propitiary inscrip- tion over the north door, also renders it probable, that the north-aisle was partly erected at his charge. Hound the verge of the slab is the follov/ing m- scription : !^tc jacct GCTinicTmusi <3t(hii. Be (Jampenene, cuon* Bam Ctiif'a, JLonuon, ctflos! ^catorlLaitar Cottug Cln* gltac early in the 17th century. . " From TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. l63 *^ From an accurate plan and elevation, still ex- tant, it appears to have been an edifice in the bold- est style of that day. It consisted of four fronts, the principal towards tlic garden ; upon the grand ter- race, at the east angle, was a lateral projection, of some feet, with spacious bow windows ; in the cen- tre a portico, with a s^-ries of columns, of the five orders, as in the schools of Oxford ; and an open corridor, The parapet was finished with pediments, of a capricious taste ; and the chminies were twisted pillars, with Corinthian capitals: a very capacious dome (or lantern) issued from the roof, wiiich was regularly illuminated, for the direction of travellers, during the night. This immense building was en- riched with frizes and entablatures, most profusely sculptured ; it is reported to have occupied, with its offices, a scite of eight acres, and to have beea erected at the expence of 29,0001." I'his magnificent building was destroyed during the Civil Wars, in the time of Charles I. The number of the inhabitants of this town, in 180], amounted to 1213. Journey from C/it'li'enham to Cirencester. About three miles from Cheltenham is Leck- HAMPTON', a parish containing about 1000 acres of very irregular ground, part of it being rich pasture, the remainuer mountainous. Part of the lithes of Leckhampton, formerly belonging to the nunnery of Usk, in Monmouthshire, was granted in tne 22(1 of Elizabeth to John Fernham ; which aihes now be- long to the impropriator of Cheltenham. frr^he church there is a tomb, upon which arc the efiigies of a knight, Cross legged, supposed to represent Sir John Crilibrd, who died, seized oi this manor, in the third year of the reign of Edward III. BiRDLiP Hill is remarkabh.' for the extent ;r,;d beauty of the prospects it commands. The most interesting feature in the landscape is tlie Roman ■ road, y'04 GT.OUCESTERSHIHE. . road, which runs from the ba^e of the hill to Glon^ ct'ster, in an uninterrupted straight line, nearly six miles in length. x\t I)RiMrsFiF.LD, seven miles from Cirencester, there was an alien priory of Benedictine nionks^ which wa.; a cell to the abbey of St. Stephen, at Fountenay, in Normandy, There was formerly a cai)uiney from IhistoJ to Aust Passaic, Fa^e 3 4 5 15 1^ 17 91 108 115 li9 1 32 137 143 148 163 105 4 ER. TOPOGRAPHICAL AND STATISTICAL DESCRIPTION OF THE COUNTY OF AVORCESTER, Coiitainini; an Aci:oiait of its Situation, Minerals, Agriculture, Extent, FKsheries. Jlarkets, Towns, Manufactures, Curiosities, Roads, Commerce, Antiquities, Rivers, Fairs, Natural Historj, Civil and Ecclesiastical Jurisdictions, d:c. To which is prefixed, A COPIOUS TRAVELLING GUIDE ; Exhibiting, The Direct and prin&pal Cross Roads, Inns and Distance of 3tages, Noblemen's and Gentlemen's Seats. Forming a COMPLETE COUNTY ITINERARY. Aho, A LIST OF THE FAIRS ; And QTi Index Tablcj Shewing, at One View, the Distances of all the Towcla from Londou, and from each other. BY G ROUGE ALEXANDER COOKE, Editor of the Universal Hijstcm of Geography, Illustrated with A MAP OF THE COUN'TY. JLottUon: Printed for C. COOKE. No. 17. Paternoster Fox» by Brimmer and Co. WaterLane, Bieet Street, Aim! sold by all the Booksellers to the Umied Kiagdom. < 'Z 3 ^ X: P. o -C 'A Q o « u z, .-3 i .V 1 r- . . . . . . . '..'.'. 'J ' S^ U s- --lil 0...-0 -^ _ . . . .-r ^i= 5or2r-^C^^-^ ^ "i ^ *^ 2 ci o ^■■'H ■^ -^ — :r. O w . CJ V^ w . il; CO 50 -Ti •^ '^ ■^■■1 -N ^1- ^ Tj^ -i t> O X C-. -^S t^< ^ >< ^^ :< >_2 -o ^ ^ T5. ■£* -^* ?^ ^^ 2; t2 ^ ^ ?i^?;c2^-^^H;^5:2 3 g ^;2g^--;5£^c=;^^'^^ J N Q;52?^^5^^^i^^5?8?^ .§^= CO ^< c: T 2 2 ':?i ^ - • :;:; '--C^ i:: '^ — F ^Si^^'c^i^55^-;^r;^S;3| CO iC'"-* O ri ;r-p :o ^ ^ -'^ 'O oo -?< -* , « :! 3 ^jr .J "-Ti •So • • -Id -L"- •^• eli|1sl||ll-i|l1is li ft-^ o c t J^ t S .; :- « i « i 2 '-^-O O '5 «;:,'f ~j .as ci. - 'c: a) .. 2 J" « O or ^ 3 ■- 3 2fe II a. s o 3 - 'i: ^ S 3 '^ u -g III ig " t. s J -I .s 3 s 4^ « S? i So, ««; f O — -< 1-H ecu 5^0^ il 2^ -3 * "5 C8 sr o Wo -a c 4J c c SJ ■;« C3 3 ft) -C 4; c ■a »,_ o O g •s «^ 3 -O b o. j; 0) 8 -^ it - «^- g. *J ^w -. -^ p X o - ^ -Jt V. ^ tJ c; AN ITINERARY ."T'r^ of all the DIRECT AND PRINCIPAL CROSS ROAD? IN WORCESrERSniRE. Ill vvtiich are included the Stages, Inns, and G£NTL£MEi\'s SeATS, Y B. The first Colnmn cofttains the Names of Places passed tprn/f'^h ; the Figures fJia' foUuio shew the Distances from Plt/ce t'l Pificc, TouM to 'L'uwn, and Slaves ; and in the Last Cvlwfin art tl,.e name- .f to Boiindfay of the Coonfu Enter Sliropbhir Half .s Owen Re-rnfcr War as- tcnhi/t Il.gley KII)LEP.MI^Sr£R R a road to Dudley 5 yrnka. \j Tlit I^tusoues,fo7ma/jj the p7opei-tt/ of the Poet Shew stone, who expended all h in fortune in beoutifj/iTig thi in ; nou- the seut of C. llurtun^Cxq. At liv.tes Ouun, to the R to Jj^uhi/ 3f/iU(S, r. to Bron/s- grovc /jnits and a quu)- iei. i L Haglei, Park, Lord Lyt- f let on. ?\car this village is the seat ofW. Waldren, esq. here is a turn to the R to Stour- hrid'^e 2 miles arid a half'. L to Ero)Hesij,rute 7 milts and a qunrttr. hill — The Lion. Cross the Staffordshire canal arid the river Siour. Here on the R to Bridifcnorth, 5/(;'o^- shirc, \oniilts.Lto Broinoi- gro'ce 9 n/ilcs, to Worces- ler 11, and to Stourport 4. A liti!c ieyond Kiddermiu' sier 10 the R is Brvkcfield Ilvm Scauaij esr, Bewdle/ ROADS IN WORCESTERSHIRE Mopson's Cross Buckridge Mamble Newnham Enter Shropshire Cross the Teme and enter Tenbury, Worcestershire n 20 22| 23 29 37 9 Inn — The George. In the vicinity of Beicdlei/f to the L are Spring Grove, S. Iley, esq, U7id Sandourn, J. Sobry, esq. At Bewdley, upon the R to Bridge- north, Shropshire, 13 miles. L to Stourport 3 miles. Cross the River Severn R to Citobury Mortimer, 5 miles and a half. R Sodington, formerly the seat of the Blounts, now in ruins, R to Worcester 18 miles. Inn — Su'an. JOURNEY FROM BIRMINGHAM TO TEWKESBURY. THROUGH BROMESGROVE, DROITWICH, AND WORCESTf R, Birmingham to Bourne Bridge Silly Oak North field Lickey Hill Bromescrove 3 3 1 3| 2| 5 3 8 3 U 2 13 Cross the Bourne Brook and enter Worcestershire. C}-oss the Stratford-on-Avon Canal. L J. C Jtrvoise, esq. L li. Biddulph, esq. R to Hales Owen 6 miles. Inns — Crown, Golden Cross. R Lady Moyston. Just before you enter Bromes- grove, R to Stourbridge IC miles. L to Akester :*-i io Upton Warren -Asliwoud Green Droitvvicb ITIN-ERARY OF THE Tunhill Green Worcester Keuisey Clifton Severn Stoke liiuis Crunie 11 H 14 10 R Grafton Hall, Earl of Shrcuahury. ll\\Lncar Ashicood Green, llan- I bury Hall. 2o Inn — The George. R to Beicdley 15 miles. Upon this road tzco viile.s from Vroituich to the His West- ziood Fark, Sir Herbert Packington^ bart. L to Alctstcr 13 7nUes^ L to Grafton Flyford six mileS. 26 27 27: 30 311 3^ L Perdisrvell Hoiise^ Henry Watlisman, esq, R Claims^ liichard Ytoman, esq. Inns — Hop Fole, George, Star and Garter, Cruwn. Just befort inm ejitcr Worces- ter, on the R to Beudley 14 7iiilts. \i to Kidderminster 14 miles. L south (f Wor- cester to Pershore nine 7711 1 cs, R Bar bourne House, G. Cooke, fs(j. L Blankets, — Sprat t, esq. Just before Kcmsey, on the L J. J. Elles, es(j. At Ke/n- scy, R Rev. George Bout- ton, (nid John PortescuCy esq R liidd Hill, Captain Rod- 7icy, L Rev. Dr. Elans. ROAPS IN WORCESTERSHIRE. 11 Naunton iStratford Bridge Twinins Tewkesbury 1 35 1 3.5| 37 n 391 u 401 ^ 41 1 42 L ^0 Pershoresix milea mid a half. R to Upton one vide arid a half. Upon the road to FershorCy to theh Crome Park, the Earl of Coven- try. R. Hani Court, John Mar- tin, esq. Cross the Avon^ and enter GlouccAtershire. Tzvining House, Mrs. MaX" zvell. L JacI-aortfi, esq. L. r. Jiev. Mr. lolei/, Thonigrove, Wiliiam Cj'oss, esq. ii. ITullovv 1 14 R to Clifton 10 miles. St. Jolin's "2 !lo R to l>)\mieyurd 13 milts i 11 ^o L'/j^un 10. Worcester ! \\mj\ Crosf^ tite Severn. JOURNEY FROM KI.')l)iaLMlN:sTER TO UORCESllill, THROUGH SIOUKIOKT, A^D OMBEKbLEY. KlDl.'LRilKNsihK 1 1 to j I iJLuur])ort 1 I 4 At Slow port the SlaffojvU I I shiie Canal t'tills into the I Severn. Upon the opposite side of (he Severn is AnUy Hull, John Zac/iari/, esq. I J /(■/ / /(• to I k e left of St oil /■- port^ Hartlehury CnnlU., belonging to tite jiishop of I l\ oretsUr. [B 2 16 Lincomb Northampton Orabersley ITINERARY OF THE Worcester 2| 10 m il 111 14 L on the road to Droltickh, Westwood Park, Sir H. FackingtoTiy hart. L a short distance from the road is the village of Sal- warpe. Cross the river Salwarpe. Cross the Droitwich Canal, L Claines, Richard Yeoman, esq. Inns — Star and Garter, Hop Pole, George, and Crown, L to Droitwich seven miles. PERSHORE to Birlingham Eckington Norton Brudon Hard wick Tewkesbury JOURNEY FROM PERSHORE TO TEWKESBURY. I 2i Gen, R to Upton 5\ miles. Rev. Mr. Bradstock. Amherst. Cross the river Avon. Near Eckingtun, IVooler Hill, C. Handforth, esq. 7\ R John, Drake, esq. lOlInns — Hop Pole, Star and I Garter, Swan, Croofn. JOURNEY FROM STOURBRIDGE TO BROMESGROVE. Stourbridge to Old S win ford Pedniore liagley 1 1 1 u n 3 L Hag lei/ Park, Lord Lyttleton ; also the seat of W. Wfjldren, esq. L to ROADS IN WORCESTERSHIRE, 17- Halcs Owen four mtles ; R iu Kiildernunsttr uve miles. Enter part of Staffordshire IIi)ly CrdbS Re-enter Wcrces- ter&lnre I'frficl.'i Green Little Biiruilcy BronieSi':ri.ne n 3- 31 R V.udhall. Oil 7-^-1 _ JO [Inns — Hop Pole, Crorn. JOURNEY FROM TEXBUHY TO WORCESrER. TtNBl'RY to Isewiihaui 3v 3\\Cross the Teme, and enter Shropsldre, Inn —Talbot. Lto Ikicdlti/ 12 1 rnilei. En- ter Worasters/iire. R Rev. C. While head, L liev. Dr. Evans. Easth-.im Ev.i.iKi'Jt^e Karlatou Stockton iiuiuired House imi Great Wit ley LittU \ViLley Holt lleath Ilallo'.v St. Johns Warcester Cross the. Teme. 1 1 I li 10| L to Kiddsrininsler 9 niilea ; \ R to Bionnyatd V2 milei. n 11 Witli^y Court, Lord Foley. 18 \L to Reu:d!ey eight miles. l2\]At a short distance to the L lUt Castle, II. ChilliHg- north, e^cj. 17 Thornf:rove R. lo R to Tenbury, through Clif- ton, iSe. \H 20 Uxns-^Star and Garter, Hop i'ole, Crown, 4"C« 3 18 rriNEKARY OF THE JOURNEY FROM UPTON TO PERSIIORE. Upton to Holly Green DifFord Pershore Cross the Severn. R to Tewkesbury seven mileg; L to Woirester nine miles, L Crome Park, Earl of Co- ventry. R to Teickeshuri/ 1\ miles. Inn — Angel. Spetchley JOURNEY FROM WORCESTER TO EVESHAM, THROUGH SPETCHLEY AND WYRE PIDDLE. WORCLSTER to R to Pershore 7| miles. Bart let t, esq. L to Alcester 1 2 miles. At a little distance on the L is White, Lady Aston. Cross the little river Piddle. L to Alcester iwie miles. Inn — Croun. u T I • i. I n I 3 n 4| ^k 9 H 101 3i 14 1 \\b Wyre Piddle Woferidge Turnpike Gate Evesham JOURNEY FROM WORCESTER TO MORETON IN-TIIK-MARSH, THROUGH PF.RSHORE AND EVESHAM Worcester to Whitfington StoLighton Luffrel Bridge Pershore Wyck Bersieworth Wickamfoid Bridge ll i 3 1 ll 2 4| 6 9 1 10 6 15 u 161 L to Ahedcr 15 mile^. Cross the rUer Avon A little to the 7iorth of Wyck is Fladbury Hill, fron* zchick there is a beaiitifuL uitd extensive view of th.€ vule of Evesham. L to Evesham and Alcester ; R to Tezi-ke.sburv , 13 niiles. ROAD* INT Broadway \3l Cross a narrow portion of Glouces- tershire and re-en- ter Worcestershire Enter Gloucester s/iire Bourton on the Hill MoRrxON-IN-THE- Marsh 41 1^ WORCESTERSHIRE, J9 19^1 On the top of Broadway Hilly liNorthwick, Lord North- wick; L Iping Hill, the Earl of' Coventry t 21 29| R to Stow'On-the-IVold, [nns — Unicorn. White Hart,. JOURNEY FROM WORCESTER TO UPTON, THROUGH GREAT AND LITTLE MALVERN. • ' Worcester to St. John's Cross the river Teme Powick Newland's Green Great Malvern Croas the Severn. ': R to Bromeyard 12| miles ; R to Tenhury by Halloii: 20 miks, by Clif'ton 201 miles. hRto Hereford 271 miles. If This village gave birth to that eminent physician, John Wall, M. D. L to Upton eight miles. L at the distance of about a mile, Maddrexjield, If w. Ligon, esq. The Church here contains some curious painted or stained glass windows. Inn — The Hotel. R a long chain of hills called the Malvern hills, and com- manding a most extensive and beautiful prospect, '20 Mulvera Wells 11 IK ERARY, &:C. Little Malvern Wolland 91: Tlieat icells are muck fre^ quentcd hi/ f'ashionabfe cuwpany in the summery uho are induted to visit them ?u)t more for the sa- lubrily of their situation,, than the romantic and highly picture.^ijue scenery thei/ afford. R to Ledbury, Jlerefordshirey five vkIcs and a iialf. L to Malvern WeHs tu o mile: R to Gmucesfer 15 miles. inn — White Lion. JOmiNF.Y FROM WORCESTER TO UPTOX, XHRorOH POVVfCK AND HAN LEY CASTLE. VV'oRrESTKK ta I Si. John's Powick Beauchamp Caiio.v End Green Hanley Green I'pton-upon- 10 P V r OF ZVy Cross the river Severn. R to Tenhary by Hallow 120 miles, by Clifton '■■lO miles and a half, to Bromeyurd li? miles and three (quar- ters. R to Hereford 27 vales and a (juarlir. Cross the river Tcme. \i to Great Malvern fre nziles. R Bripsell, Sir Charles V/il/iej-s. L Drakes Place. L Severn End, Henry Levhmere, esq. R Hanley Castle, Inn — While l.icn. (^21 ) CORRECT LIST OF ALL THE FAIRS WORCESTERSHIRE. Alvechurck. — May 3, Au- gust to, all sorts of cat- tle, sheep and lambs. Bcibroughton, — First Monday in April, Mon- day betore St. Luke, Oc- tober 18; horned cattle, • horses and cheese. Bewdlej/. — April 23, horn- ed cattle, horses, cheese, linen and woollen cloth ; Monday before July 26, cattle, cheese, and all o- ther merchandise ; De- cember 10, hogs only ; December 11, horned - cattle, horses, cheese, linen and woollen cloth. Blockley. — Tuesday after Easter week, cattle ; October 10, for hiring servants. Bromesg7'ove. — Jane 24, October 1, linen cloth, cheese, and horses. Droitwich. — Friday in Easter week, June 18, September 24, Decem- ber 18, cattle, cheese, ivool and other merchan- dize ; September 23, for hiring servants. Dudley. — May 8, cattle, wool, cheese ; August 5, lambs, CHttle ; October horses, cattle, wool, and cheese. Eversh'im. — Candlemas- day Feb. 2, Monday after Easter Week Whit-mon- day, September 21, cat- tle and horses. Feckcnfiam. — March 26, September SO, cattle. Kiddermin&ier. — Palm- Monday, cattle, sheep, and pedlary ; Holy Thursday, June 20, Sep- tember 4, horned cattle, horses, cheese, linen and woo|lfcn cloth. Kings Norton. — April 25, September 6, cattle of all sorts. Femnore. — Easter Tues- day, June 26, Tuesday before All Saints, Nov. 1, cattle and horses. Redditch. — First Monday in August, cattle of all sorts. Shipston. — Third Tuesday in April, cattle and horses, Sh'ipton. — i^2 LIST OF Skipton. — June 22, Tues- day rit'rer October 10, horses, cows, sheep, Stourbridge. — March -29 horsfs afifi other cattle; September 8, cattle of all sorts, and sheep. Stourport ncarBewdiey. — Easter Monday, a nioet- iiig fb- horned cattle, hoj)3,efore St. Matthew, Septetiiber 21, horses, cattle, sheep and leather. Worcester. — Saturday be- fore Palm Sunday, Sa- turday in Easter week, cattle, horses and linen cloth; Au:ru.-.t 1.', Se(»- teinber j Q, I'irst Monday in Decern bei;, cattle, horses cheese, lambs hops and linen cloth ; Se- cond -Moiuiay m Febru- ary, lst?»Ion(Jay in .May, June, July, and JNoveiii- ber, cattle, tk.c. END OF THE LIST OF F-URS,, GENERAL DESCRJTTJON OF THE COUNTY OF WORCESTER. BOUN'DARIES, SITUATION, AND EXTENT. TTZOKCESTERSHIRE is reckoned among the » ^ iMidlaiid counties of England, and is bounded upon the west by Hereford, from which it is sepa- rated in part by the Malvern Hills, a small portion of the river leme, and further north by the little ri- vulet, called Cadmore Brook, which empties itself into the Teme, at a short distance to the west of Ten- bury. At the junction of the Cadmore Brook with the Teme, this latter again becomes, for a* short part of its course, a boundary separating this county from IShropshir*?, which is situated to the nortii-west. Vvorccrilevsliire is further separated from this county by a small portion of the Red river (which flows in a southerly direction to meet the 'Feme r.ear Rochford) and two other small rivulets, which fall into the Se- vern, one upon its west and the other upon its east side, where that river enters this county from Shrop- shire. Upon the north is Staffordshire, from which it is separated in part by the river Stour. To the north-east and east this county is bounded by War- ■wickshire, and upon the south-east and south by Gloucestershire. The shape of this county is extremely irregular, having upon every side small portions detached and insulated by the adjoining counties, as Dudley and its vicinity upon the north, which i? surrounded upon all sides by Staffordshire ; a narrow stretch of country, extending from about a mile and a half south of Shipstone-upon-Stour, and seven miles and a half north of it, and not exceeding two miles and a half, in its most extreme breadth, is insulated upon the east, by Warwickshire and Gloucestershire. Elmload is another insulated portion, to the south- east in Gloucestershire, in which county is also ano- ther detached portion culled Cuddesden ; Edwii^ Loch ■ C4 WORCESTERSHIRE. I.och upon the west is insulated by the county of Hertford. Besides these portions, which are wholly insulated, the boundaries of the county form num- berless indentures with the adjoining counties, resem- bling bays, promontories, and peninsulas. Measured from its most south-western boundary, formed in the neighbourhood of the village of Stanton by the river Ledden, to its mo>t extreme north-eastern boundary, about two miles north-east of Yardly, on the con- fines of Warwickshire, the extent of this county is about 44 miles ; but measured in a direct line, north and south along the course of the river Severn, from its entrance into the county a little beyond Bewdley, to its junction with the Avon, near Tewkesbury, where it leaves the county, its greatest length is about 24 miles, so that the mean length north and south is 34 miles. Itsextremt; breadth, as measured from its eastern boundary, which projects a little beyond Oldborough into the county of VVarv/ick, to its most western boundary, formed by the junction of the Cadmore Brook with the Teme, about two miles west of Tenbury, is 34 miles. Tht^ shortest line, taken across the county from Atch Lench in the east to Malvern in the west, is about 13 miles ; so that we may compute the mean breadth at 26 miles. The circumference of the county, if we omit the irregular indentures it makes with those adjoin- ing to it, does not much exceed 124 miles ; but in- cluding them, it will amount to nearly 230 miles. The supt^rlicial contents of the area included within the boundaries, are, according to the most accurate surve} s, 599,0-^0 acres, to which if we add about 19,200 acres, for the detached portions, we shall have 618,240 acres for the superficial contents, from which we must, however, deduct about 5000 acres for por- tions of the counties of Warwick, Salop, and Here- ford, insulated by this county, leaving a remain- der of 613/240 acres for the contents of Worcester- shire. NaM£. NAME. i;3 The county evidently takes its name, from its principal cily Worcester, the etymology of which is deduced from Wirccester, by changing a vowel. The name Wigomia, occurs in Florence of Worcester, who died about 60 years before Joseph of Exeter wrote. Abingdon derives the Saxon name firom the wears on tiie river. The inhabitants, witn those of the adjoining parts, were in Bede's time, prior to the division of the island into counties, called Ificcu, a name deiived, as we may reasonably conjecture, from the salt pits which it contains, fhe old English name of which is Witches. This county formerly constituted, the second part of the country of the Cornam. In the time of the Romans it was swampy, overgrown with wood, and cons^'quently but little known to that cautious and warlike people ; neither Ptolemy nor Antoninus take any notice of it whatever; and of the four great Roman roads, which cross the kingdom, but one, viz. the Iknield-street, approaches its borders; the Iknield Way ho?vever crosses a small portion of- the county, entering it near Broby, and passing on to Edgeba'ston in Warwickshire leaves the town of Birmingham a little to the west. The principal stations or camps, in this county are on W^assal and Whitchbury Hill, near the banks of the Severn, in the neighbourhood of Kempsey, Little Malvern, and upon W^oodbury IIUl. Worcestershire constituted under the Saxon hep- tarchy a part of the kingdom of Mercia, and was the frequent scene, of sanguinary contests between the Saxons and the Danes Climate. The air of this county is mild, warm, and healthy; there being but few lakes, and very little swampy ground, the inhabitants of the Malvern hills enjoy a most salubrious and temperate climate, a circum- stance which, conjointly with the beautiful, rich, and 'C picturesque 5f5 WOP.CESTERSHIRr. picturesque scenery wliicli they furnish, contributes not a little to induce nuillitudes ot tasliionabie louu- giTs, to make the villages of Great and Little Mal- vern, which are situated upon the eastern side of these hills, the temporary theatres of their ccstival gaieties. The soil is in general rich and fertile ; producing grain and fruit in the greatest profusion, and also aftbrding an abundant pasturage. But these parti- culars fall more innnediately under the agricultural division of our work, where will be found a mure ' minute and detailed account of them. RIVERS. The principal rivers of this county arc, the ScYcrn, the Avon, the '1 erne, and the Stour. 'J'he Sr.VERN, the principal river of this county, and the second in rank alter the Thames, whether we regard the length of its course, the majesty of its stream, or the extensive advantages w hicii the com- merce of the county derives from it, takes its name, from the British wc>rd, Sabi or Sabrin, which denote sandy, and allude to the extreme muddiness of its waters, which is particularly remarkable after rain, when aphopnomenon, almost peculiar to tjjis river, and expressively denominated by the tenants of its banks t4ie Boar, presents itself : this j^hoenomenon shall be further noticed elsewhere. Adapting the British name to their own orthography, the Romans lati- nised tlie name of this river, by giving it a femi- nine termination, and calling it Sabrina, whence, with a trilling alteration, may be easily traced the Sevkrn of the moderns. The name by which the Welch still designate this river fully expresses their sense of its importance, Ha au kian ia their language signifying the Queen of rivers. The source of the Severn is to be found among the cliffs of Plenlemmon, which has the honour of giving bif th to three remarkable rivers^ which, ribin^ RIVERS. '21 rising within a sliprt distance of each other, pursue dirtKient courses, but at la>t pour their tributary waters into the same sea. Besides the Severn, tiie "VVye, famous for its romantic beauties, and ilselt finally a tributary to the Severn, and the Doe, which washing the savage cluts of Montgomeryshire, and winding through the lu.xuriant vales of Abbe Crucis and Llangollen, hastens by the walls of the ancient city of Chester, to meet tiie waters of the Irish sea, liavt their fountains among the quartose precipices otthe cloud-capped Plinlimmon. 'I'he Severn, liaving washed the fortifications of the venerable capital of the county of Salop, enters the county of VVorcester, between Kidderminster ajid Bevvdiey, and pursuing a southerly course, near- ly through the centre of the county, receives at the little comujercial town of Stourport, about 10 miles north of the city of Worcester, the tributary stream of the Stour, and the commerce of the northern and inland counties, poured in by the Staffordshire ca- nal. Continuing its course through rich meadows and beautiful pasturages, it receives, at the distance of about seven miles further, tlie waters of the Sa- varp, which rising upon Bromsgrove Lickey, and washing the walls of Droitwich, hastens to termi- nate its course in the bosom of the Severn, accom- panied, during the latter part of its course, by a ca- nal leading from Droitwich. Somewhat lower down, the stream of the Severn is further augmented by the waters of the Bever- bourne, or Oiler river, which derives its name Irom the multitude of otters which frequented it. it next washes the walls of the rich and beautiful city of Worcester, and about three miles south of that city, has its stream increased by the tributary waters of the Teme ; from this place, during the re~ niainder of its course through this county, it re- ceives no river of importance, till it reaches the southern conliues at Tewkesbury, where it is ho- r a ' nourcd 28 WORCESTERSHIRE. noured by admixture with the celebrated waters of the classic Avon. Thus having wound its course for the space of about 60 miles through this county, forti- fying and draining the lands upon either side of it, andenrichingthe inhabitants, by tne extensive inland commerce which is carried on through the as>istance of its waters, this majestic river hastens through the rich vales of Gloucestershire, to receive the richly- laden ships, which come down the Avon, from Bris- tol, and convey them down the channel to the vast Atlantic. Having thus cursorily noticed the track pursued by this noble river, which has the honour of wash- ing, no less than three of our most respectable and antient provincial capitals, it remains for us with equal brevity to notice its productions. The Severn is particularly noticed for affording three sorts of fisli, namely the salmon, the shad, and the lamprey or lampern, two species of the same genus Such was the abundance of salmon former- ly taken in this river, that when children were bound as apprentices, or servants engaged for hire, an es- pecial contract was entered into that they should not be obliged to eat of thai fish more than twice in each week. The shad was not caught in so great an abundance. The lamprey, taken in this river is the same with that which Linnaeus denominates the Pf.tromvzom Marinus ; this lish, usually an inhabitant of the ocean, annually visits the Severn for the purpose of depositing its spawn, early in the spring. Tiiis lish is easily distinguished by its superior size, from the fresh-water species, which we shall immediately mention ; it often attains to the weight of from three to four pounds, and is much esteemed by those who are accustomed to revel in the luxuries of epi- curism : eatim in excess this hsh is unwholesome, as the death of Henry I. evinces. The fresh-water lamprey or lampern, as it U commonly RIVERS. 59 commonly called, which Linnscus distinguishes by the name of Peiiiomyzon Fluviatilis, is more abundant, but smaller and cheaper than the preced- ing. These tibh resemble eels in their form and slimness, their colour is blackish upon the back, and blue upon their bellies, and upon each side of their throat they have seven parallel holes^, which serve them in the place of gills. They are found in the greatest perfection in spring, but being more abun- dant than the sea-lanjpiey, are held in less estima- tion. The Severn is remarkable for a phLEnoraenon cal- led the boar, which is merely a swelling of its wa- ters by the inundations of the mountain torrents, which it receives in its course through Wales. The name is derived from the noise, which at a distance tills accumulated mass of v/ater rising many feet per- pendicular above the customary level of the stream^ makes in its devastating progress ; those who hap- pen to be overtaken by it upon its banks are in- volved in inevital>le destruction. The Severn is navigable for trows, of 110 tons as high as Gloucester, for those of 80 tons to Tewkes- bury, for those of 70 tons to Worcester, and of 6o to Stourport and Bewdley, Trows of 40 tons can proceed as high as Siirewsbury. The Avon', a river which derives an adscititious celebrity from tiie circumstance of its washing the walls of the town which had the honour of giving birth to the inimitable Shakespear, rises in the county of Northampton, in the neighbourhood of Weliford, not far from the conlines of that county, which it, for a shoit part of its course, divides froni Leicestershire, and pursuing a course slightly in- clining to the southward of west, it enters the coun- ty of Warwick, crossing the old Koman road called Watlhis: Street, at the point where the three coun- ties of VVarwick, Leicester, and Northampton meet. After entering Warwickshire, it continues, with in- c 3 numerable 30 WORCESTERSHIRE. numerable sinuosities, still to preserve, with little de- viation, the same line of direction which it had when dividing the counties of Leicester and North- ampton. Crossing the turnpike road at the distance of about three miles, south of Coventry, it takes a more southerly direction, and passing close under walls of the ancient city of Warwick, hastens to leave the classic walls of Stratford-upon-Avon, im- mortalized as the birth place, of the illustrioas Shake- spear. IVoceeding hence, it enters, after a sinu- ous course of a few miles, the county of Worcester, in the vicinity of the little village of Salford, upon the confines of the two counties ; continuing its south - western course, across the northern extremity of tlie fertile and beautiful vale of Evesliam, (or Ec- sham as it is commonly pronounced), it winds round the southern side of the town, from which the vale is named ; here it makes a reach to the northward, and flowing in a curvilinear direction, passes the town of Pershore, and continuing thence a more southerly course, it finally blends its waters with those of the majestic Severn, at a very short dis- tance to the nortiiward of Tewkesbury, having tirst received the Carren Brook, which rising in tiie neighbourhood of Overbury, constitutes, tor the greater part of its course, a portion of the boun- dary between this county and that of Gloucester. We have been thus minute, in tracing the course of the Avon, or the East Avon, as it is frequently rai- led in contradistinction to the western Avon, which rising in Wiltshire, and washing in its course the walls of Bath and of Bristol, also falls into the Se- vern, on account of the celebrity it has long pos- sessed, from its passing through the town of Shakes- spear's nativity ; an excuse this which we trust our readers will accept for the tedious minuteness of our description. The Temf. is the next river of importance in this county, whicU it enters at the noitU-v/esteni extre- mity. RIVERS. 31 niity, not quite three miles west of Tenbiiry. This river for part of its course, rather bounds than Hows through the county, which however it fairly enters, about two miles east of Tenbury, and hence, pursuing a somewhat arched course to the south- ward, it again becomes, tor a few miles of its course, a boundary of the county ; quitting the borders a little to the north of the village of Knightwick, it assumes a south-eastern direction, and flowmg through a rich and fertile country, falls into tlie Se- vern about three miles to the southward of the city of Worcester. The SrouK rises in Staffordshire, and forming a line of separation between that county and Wor- cester, for some part of its course, enters the latter county in the vicinity of Stourbridge, and flowing through the town of Kidderminster, disembogues itself into the Severn near Stourport, having for the latter part of its course been accompanied by the new navigable canal, which we have already no- ticed as connecting the waters of the Sev^^rn and the Mersey, opening a facility of inland naviga- tion highly benelicial to the interests of commerce. Many streams of little note, but no inconsiderabJe utility to the Farmer, water this county, of which, however, they do not form sufliciently striking fcatwres to merit or demand particular dcscrip- tion. CA^JALS. Besides the facility of inland navigation, furnished to tiie inhabitants of this county by the many consi- derable rivers which .How through it, a water commu- nication with some of the niost distant counties is further procured, by the artificial aid of canals-, of these the following are the principal. Fi.'-st, the Droitwich Canal, which commencing at the town from whence it takes its name, proceeds fcy Bryer's niiii and over FaUhaai-tuil brook, to the village 32 WORCESTERSHIRE. village of Salwarp; thence, over Martin Brook, by Hill end, through Lady Wood ; over Atterburn Brook, by Jacob's Ladder, and Ilawford rough, to Hill Top, and across tlie road from Kidderminster to Worcester, by Hawford house into the Severn, near the junction of that riv-er with the Salwarp. — The length of tins canal is five miles and hve fur- longs, having a fall of about 56 feet bix inches during this course. Second. The Worcester and Birmingham Canal, uhich commences at the latter town, and passing through the parishes of Edgebuston, Northfield, King's Norton, Aberchurch, Tardebig, Stoke Prior, Dodderhill, Handbury, Hadsor, Hembleton, Od- dingb};, Tibberton, Hinling, Warndon, Claines, and St. Martin's, falls into the Severn, at a place called Diglis, on the south side of the city of Worces- ter, having completed a course ot 31 miles and a lialf, of which the first 16 are upon a level, while the remaining 16 and a half have a fall of 448 feet. This canal opens a valuable communication between these two great manufacturing towns, as aUo be- tween the several towns situated upon the banks of the Severn below Worce>ter, and the great sea-port and manufacturing towns in (he north. Third, Dudley Extension Canal, which joining the Dudley Canal near Netherton, and nuie materially injured the church. The number of houses in this town is 185, that of inhabitants 905, exclusive of the foreign, in which are 44 houses, and '233 inhabitants. Tenbury, or, as it is more correctly called, Teme- bury, is agreeably seated upon the right bank of the river from, which it takes its name, and which iiere divides the county of Worcester from Shropshire, The extent of the parish is about three miles and a Jjalf long, and three miles and a quarter broad. Xtubury, with most of the lapds between Teme ."^S WOBCESTERSHIRE. and Hertfordshire, was held by Robert Fitz Richard, Lord of Richard's Castle, v.hose son Hugh marrying Eustathia de Say, a great heires , tiieir issue assumed the name of Say. These lands, by Margaret an ht^ir female, came in the reign of John to Robert Morti- mer, and the issue male of his family failing, in the time of Edward I. they v.ere divided between two daughters, of whom the elder married GeoHry de Cornwall, whose descendants still retain possession of that part of the e.^tate, which this alliance gave to their family. The younger sister's portion has frequently changed its masters. 1 he banks of the Teme in this neighbourhood produce annually a gfeat abundance of excellent cyder and hops. About three miles south of Tenbury is a large favm of 600 acres, called Sutton Park. The greater part of the land is tythe-free. Ihe Church liere is a cl.apel of ease to Tenbury, and contaiiis several ancient monuments. Adjoining to Sutton Park is the parish of Kyre Wykf;, remarkable for producing large quantities of wild saffro!!. Quitting Tenbury and its vicinity, we proceed along the turnpike road toWorcestei, and. at the dis- tance of about seven miles from 'i'enbury, observe upon our left Abberlev Lodge, the elegant seat of R. Bromley, Ltq. 'I hio is au agreeable mansion, delightfully seated upon a very lofty hill which commands an extremely lich and beautifully-diver- sified pro>p<'ct. 'Ihis place fnrmely belonged to that exctrllent critic and worthy man William Walsh, Es(|. thrice representative of this county in parliament, and celebrated by Pope, part of whose description we insert : ; . ^ " Siicli lafe w as WaUh, the muse's judfje and friend. Who iustlv knew to blame and to commend ■ ' " 7.0 fiiiliii;j;s uiild, but zealous for dfiserl, i Jie ckiuebt h.ead, and the siuctresC heart." The TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 39 The apartments at Abberley Lodge are commo- dious and eleganLly furnislied, there are also some good pahititigs, by the hrst masters Nearly opposite to this seat is V^'^'uodbury Hill, rising agreeably from the banks of the Teme, whicu flows along its western side. This hill is remarkable for having upon its summit the vestiges of an ancient camp, attributed by popular tradition, to the brave Owen Glendwyr, but bearing strong marks of an earlier date. This camp is single trenched, and possesses an area of about 27 acres. Monstrelet in his history gives the following account of the route of Owen Glendwyr and his French auxiliaries. **The French" says this writer, " landed at Hureford, (liaverfordj marched to Toury, (Tenby) and through the Pais de Linorguie. (perhaps the district of La- charne, or rather Glamorganshire) The King (Henry IV.) lay on Abberley Hill, about a mile off Wood- bury.'^ Under the west side of Woodbury Hill is the vil- lage of Shelsey Beauchamp, so called from its former possessors the Beauchamps of Hol^ Over- against Shelsey Beauchamp, but upon the opposite side of the river Teme, is Shklsey Walsh, also denominated from a former possessor Sir Richard Walsh, who happening to be sheriff of this county at the time of the memorable Gunpowder Plot, dis- tinguished himself by his activity in apprehending the conspirators whom he pursued into Stafford:- shire. From the eastern side of Woodbury Hill runs an elevated ridge almost to the Severn, which appears to^ have bounded the province inhabited by the V/iccii. At the foot of this hill, about nine miles north-west of Worcester, is Great Witley, in the magnihcent park adjoining to which, is the noble mansion ot Lord Foley, whose ancestors obtained it by purchase from the Russels, to whom it came 111 tlie reign of Henry VH. by marriage with one of D 2 the 40 /'A'OFCESTf^SHtRE. the coheirs of Cassy, Mrho had married the heif- general of the Cokesey, its more ancient lords. The house was miicli improved by the founder of that truly valuable institution tiie Hospital at Stour- bridge, Thomas Foley, Esq. Its situation is emi- nently judicious, and tiie apartments in general mag- nilicent, those especially which occupy the south front of the house ; we could not, iiowever, avoid regretting that from the want of a sufficient loftiness the apartments for the most part lost much of their grandeur, and that the profwsion of gilduig, which many of them display, borders rather upon the tawdry than the magniticent: this latter defect, as lieiiig of easy remedy, will we trust be speedily removed by the rehned taste of the present noble proprietor. 1 he Park, in which this house is seated, abounds in picturesque scenery, and it was not without strong emotions of sorrow, that we w itnes^ed the neglect of impiovenient, which forces itseli upon tiie atten- tion ; most sincerely do we hope to witness a greater attention to these particulars, and once more to Jind Great Witley the favoured residence of its an- cient lords. The parish Church of Great Witley is not far distant from the manor-house, and wai begun by the first Lord Foley, and completed by his widow T,ady Mary, by whom no expence was spared in its decoration, and such has been the success of their wishes that this church ranks among the must beau- tiful in the kingdom. The painting of the windows, •which has been much admired, was the work of Price in the year 17 19; but the ceiling has deservedly obtained the highest commendation ; it was painted by Verrio, and originally designed for the chapel at Canons, the Duke of Chandos' magnificent seat, but upon the change of that nobleman's fortunes, it ^\as purchased from the painter by the second Lord TOPOGUAFHICAL DESCn.IPTI0>3^. 4l Lord Foley, and applied to the decoration of thij church. The situation of Witley Church, amidst the mo- numents of mortality, has given otTence to many squeamish people, who were in other respects pleased with the building and its situation ; this circum- stance occasioning Mr. Sullivan to remark the pre- judice excited by it in some persons to the old C'icerone of the house and place, she shrewdly ob- served to !iim in reply, that ** if people are slocked at the sight of mortality, it is very easy for them to shut the windows." The Foley family, to whom this noble scat be- iongs, were originally engaged in extensive com mercial transactions, which they conducted with the most upright p.ro{>ity and singular success, hav ing amassed in this manner an immense fortune, nobility crowned their desires, and accomplished their hopes. A superb monument erected, at no in- considerable t '•enct*, upon the. south side of tiie ahar in the parish church, perpetuates the memory and displays the virtues of its founders, the firstXor'd Foley, and his wife Dame Lady Mary, who survived him a few years. LiTiLE WiTLEY J5i situated at th,e distance of about one mile east of the village of Great Witley ; and about four miles further in the same direction, upon the leftside of the road, is [ioi,T Cas i le, the remains of which bespeak its former strength. Its foundation is ascribed, but with doubtful jusiice, to ©ne of the family of D'Abitots ; the castle obtained its name from tiie thick woods ainonost which it was situated, //o/^ being formerlv synonymous witli wood, A liandsome Man'^.ion- house lias oeen erect- ed in the vicinity of tlie castle. Previous to the reign of Klizabeth this seat was the residence of t!ie Beauchamps, who had been long lord ot the ma- nor. In this queen's lime it was purchased bv S'>r Thomas Brom'.ty^ Lord Chancellor of iuo£]a *d^ and D 3 ^ ' b 42 WORCESTERSHIRE, h mentioned by Leland as the scene of several of the grand tournaments of Richard IT. It is now the residence of Henry Chillingworth, Esq. Holt Church presents a most beautiful and per- fect specimen of the Saxon architecture, and can- not be exceeded in this respect by another Saxon church in England. The testimonials of its extreme antiquity are visible in its outward door, as also the •arch of the chancel with their low massive pillars, and variously sculptured capitals ; indeed, its archi- tecture is otthe purest Saxon style, wholly unmixed with the Norman, and hence it is evident that its date is prior to the Conquest. A little beyond Holt Castle, upon the right side of the road, is a neat House, the residence of the Hev. Mr. Foley ; and about one mile further upon the same side is Thorngrove, the agreeable seat *ipf William Cross, Esq. .''V 'i^he village of Hallow 1*3 situated one mile nearer to Worcester, and adjoining to it is the deligiitfut seat of the same name, situated upon a beautiful eminence which rises gradually from tlie banks of the Severn, and is finely wooded ; the house com- mands a rich and extensive prospect over the vale of Severn, which Dyer so well describes in hisf>oeHi of the Fleece: ". The vale of Severn, Nature's garden wide, By the blue steeps of distant Malvern wall'd, Solemnly vast. The trees of various shade. Scene behind scene, with. fair delusive pon)p, Enrich tlie prospect." The prospect towards the south is equally rich and beautiful, enli^'ened like the former with a view of the Severn, flowing in silent pomp through the richest meadows towards the ancient city of Worces- t(?r, whose spires apoear in the distance overtop- ping the rich woods which are interposed bet;veen, '»• iule the blue range of the distant Coteswold and Brcdon tOrOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION, 43 Bredon Hills, rising to the south-east forms a pleasing boundary to the scene. The grounds of Hallow boast, in addition to all the other numerous advan- tages which they possess, the further one of a pur- gative chalybeate spring, generally reputed to ap- proach in its virtues to some of the springs at Chel- tenham, which it closely resembles in taste ; of its chemical analysis we caimot but regret that the want of a proper opportunity prevents us from speaking. We should, however, from the super- ficial observations we were able to make, be in- clined to suppose that Epsom salt (sulphate of mag- nesia) and sul})hate of iron were its active consti- tuents, with these is not improbably intermixed a small quantity of the sulphate of soda (Glauber^s salt) also muriate of soda (common salt for culinary purposes). Adjoining to the western suburbs of the city of Worcester is the neat and healthy village of St. Johns, consisting ))rincipally of a single street, in which are many very respectable and well-built houses. The situation of this village, upon an emi- nence of some height, is peculiarly delightful, and the salubrity of its air joined to the beauty of the views which it presents upon every side, contri* butes not a little to make it the favourite country residence of many of the wealthv citizens of Worces- ter to whom, from the multiplicity of their mercan- tile avocations, its contiguity to the city is an addi- tional^ and not improbably a primary, recommen- dation. An annual fair is held here upon the Fri- day preceding Palm Sunday, and upon this day only does the ma}or of Worcester, accompanied by the aldermen and attended by the customary officers, walk in procession through the village, over which, however, notwithstanding this parade they posses? no authority, it being situated without the limits of the jurisdiction of the corporation. This custom is of 44 \VORCfeSTj'.RSTTffti;„ of a remote origin, coniiiieiicing with the rci'gti cf Edward IV. Part of this parish is called the Township bf Wvck, so denominated from tht; Saxon word Wick, or creek, in consequence of its proximity to the "IVine, which terminates its winding course in the Severn, at no great distance hence. This township is situated in the south-western part of St. Johns parisli, and possesses several well-biiilt houses. J'his parish is memorable for having given birth to the distinguished Reginald Bray, who, on ac- count of his great servi-ces to the state in counterac- ting and defeating the ambition of the detestable tyratit Richard III. and in promoting the union of the long-cont tending houses of York and Lancas- ter, was elevated by Henry VII. to the exalted sta- tion of Lord Treasurer of England. Reginald contributed largely to the endowment of tl)e cha- pel of St. Johns, and of the priory church of Great Malvern. Somewhat at)0ve four miles west of St. John's, upon the road leading to Bromeyard, is the small village of CoiHF.RioGfc;, in the vicinity of which is the ancient and hospitable mansion of Rowland Berkeley, Esq. agreeably seated upon the left side of the road, at the remote extremity of an old- fashioned avenue of noble trees, extending to nearly a mile in length. The mansion is of modern con- struction, and its front extremely light and airy ; It commaiids an extremely picturesque view of the rich vale througii which, and at no great ditance, the Teme winds its course. Fastidious observei-s, •attached only to novelty, and disgusted with every thing which tiie caprice of fashion has thought pro- per to reject, dislike the antiquated appearance of tliese grounds, which are, in a variety of directions, intersected with rectilineal avenues of tall trees; ■which, however they may detract from the pic- turesque, certainly contribute rrot a little to heighten the TOFOGRAPHrCAL DESCRIP TION'* 45 the venerable grandeur of the scene. We are too apt in this age oi unthinking frivohty to mistake tin- sel for gold, and exchange the substantial advan- tages, which our forefathers so highly prized, and so religiously preserved, for the unprofitable efforts of a tasteless improver. Notwithstandmg the an- tifjuated regularity of the Cotheridge plantations the toute ensemble has an agreeable efiectj contribu- ting in no small degree to diversify the general ap- pearance of the country. In the reign of Elizabeth this estate belonged to the family of the Braces, from whom it passed to Wil- liam Berkeley, Esq. of Spetchley. This gentleman's only son Thomas going in the suite of Sir Daniel Harvey, to the court of Constantinople, died at Megree in Greece, in consequence of which Mr. Berkeley left this, along with other estates, to his second daughter. Upon the opposite side of the river is the manor of Leigh, which formerly belonged to Lord Viscount Hereford. Returning to St. Johns, we enter by a new road the ancient and memorable city of WORCESTER, Which is the principal city in this county, and has been long famed for its elegance and its manu- factures. This city is noticed, as Camden says, by Antoninus and Ptolemy, the former calling it Bra* iionium, the latter Branogenium ; and by th(^ Britons it was called Cucr Wningon, Joseph of Exeter, a most excellent poet for the age in which he lived, is among those who have called this city by the Latin name of Wigomia. He writes as follows to Arcli- bishop Baldwin : " In nuiiierum jam crescit honor, tetertia poseit Insula, jam meminit Wigorniu^ Cantia discit, Romanus meduarur apia, et naufraga Petri Ductorem in mediis expectaC cymba procellis." ** Successive 40 WOKCESTER}TIRK, " Successive honours thicken round thee now, And a third mitre waits thy sacred brow : Wo?'ceg(rr and Kent record thy gentle sway, The Roman mitre's thine withtmt delay; And Peter's shattered vessel asks thy hand, To steer her safe ttiro' raging storms to land." "We find Worcester noticed by the appellation of Wigornia m the remains of Florence, of Worcester, a writer of a much earlier date than John of Exeter, vho did not write till 60 years after the other's death. An inspection of the map formed upon Antoninus^s Itinerary, shews pretty plainly tiiat the Romans knew little if any thing of this county, and that consequently Camden and others who suppose the Branonium of Antoninus, or the Brano^enium of Ptolemy, to be the capital of Worcestershire, are evidently mistaken. Camden is of course neces- sarily wrong in his conjectures with respect to the origin of Worcester, which he ascribes, but without any good grounds whatever, to the Romans, who \vere in the habit of erecting strong fortresses up- on the frontiers of their provinces, to secure them from invasion. In the darkness of antiquity which involves the origin of the city of Worcester, who shall decide upon the various merits of the conjectures of anti- quarians. That it was founded at an extremely re> mote period is admitted by most, and we liave al- ready seen the improbability of its having at any j)triod been a Roman station. From its situation upon the frontiers of Wales, into the intricate re- cesses of which mountainous co\mlry the Aliorigines of this island had been compelled by the superior skill and numbers of their invaders to retreat, it is evident that Worcester must have suffered severely and repeatedly in tht; unceasing conflicts between them and our Saxon ancestors. la TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 47 In the sanguinary periods wImcIi ensued upon tUe invasion of tKis country by tiie Danes, we learn that Worcester was eminently a suilerer, having been plundered and laid in ashes by those relentless con- querors. When, however, the meiTjorable victory gained by Alfred and his victorious troops, over these foreign tyrants, rescued tlie nation from their grasp, Ethelred, viceroy of the Wiccians and his wife Ethelfreda, daughter to the Great Alfred, invited the inhabitants to return and rebuild their ancient habitations, which they were further induced to da by the establishment of a bishop's see here.. So completely had the security of a few years effaced from the recollection of the inhabitants of Worcester the heavy misfortunes which befel tliem under the Danish yoke, that, at the time when the safety of the nation required the most vigorous ex- ertions to prevent a recurrence of the horrors which had been so recently witnessed, and the imposition of a tax called, from its object, the Dancgeit, was no longer an act merely of prudence, but of neces- sity, we find tiie citizens of this unfortunate town amongst the foremost to oppose it, and proceeding even to assault and murder the persons who were commissioned by llardicanute to collect the tax. Enraged at the account of this proceeding, the King immediately resolved upon taking a signal vengeance, and, having put all these rebelli- ous subjects to the sword, raze their city to the ground. Apprised, however, in time, the inhabitants, after having in vam endeavoured, by giving up the ring- leaders, to conciliate once more their angry monarch and avert the threatened destruction, retired for safety to the island of Bevcrc in the river Severn, situated about two miles north of Worcester, which they left to the pillage of the army sent against tiici\-i, well knowing how untenable it was. Having tiiui secured tlicir retreat, they assiduously fortified themselves 48 WORCESTERSHIRE. themselves in this little island, and, resolved either upon selling their lives as dearly as possible, or ex- torting from the incensed Hardicanule more mode- rate terms, they awaited with trembling anxiety the arrival of the troops sent to chastise their re- bellion. The soldiers finding upon their arrival that the city was deserted, halted for some days to secure the plunder w^hich the inhabitants in 'tiie precipi- tancy of their flight had not been able to conceal ; and having completed their pillage and laid the town in ashes, they marched confident of success, and little expecting resistance, against their victims •who were entrenched in Bevere, Disappointed in their hopes of an easy conquest, bafiled in their various assaults, and terrified by the symptoms of disalt'ection, which seemed to spring up in every direction the commanders of the royal army hav- ing fruitlessly consumed much time in their at' tempts at subjecting the rebels, ol^ered them the most advantageous terms, which were gladly ac- cepted, and the people, upon the soldiers being withdrawn, returned to the ashes of tiieir former residence, and a new city soon occupied the site of the ruins. Worci stcr seems to have recovered rapidly from the effects of these disasters, and risen to no small degree of wealth and consequence, having at the period of the Doomsday survey (about 40 years subsequent to its destruction by the soldiers of Har- dicanute) possessed a mint ; in the Doomsday i^ook we find it taxed at J 3 hides ; and when any money was coined heye eyery coiner paid to William i'Os. for his dies. As if to compensate for their rebellious practices in the reign of Hardicanute, the inhabitants of Worcester were distinguished for their loyalty un- der William and his son Ivufus, in the reign of the Jatter of whom, aided by the advice and enccurageti TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 49 by the exhortations of Wulbtan their bishop, who defended the castle, they took up arms, upon the invasion of this part of the country bv Bernard de Newmark and other powerful barons of the marches, and sallying out engaged and totally defeated these predatory invaders. The reign of Henry I. was unattended with any remarkable occurrence in the history of Worcester. His successor Stephen, conscious of the weakness of liis own pretensions to the crown, and afraid of losing it through the exertions of the Empress Maud, expelled William de Beauchamp, who was lord of the city and castle, from his situation, sub- stituting Walleran, Earl of Merent, whom he re- garded as less attached to the empress. Disap- pointed, however, in his expectations of the perfect submission of this new governor, Stephen resolved to dispossess him of liis authority, and confer it up- on some person more devoted to his interests, and more submissive to his commands. In the attempt to accomplish this Stephen met a resistance he lit- tle expected, from the nobles who espoused the cause of Walleran. Incensed at this opposition, Stephen in the 15th year of his reign marched against the devoted city of Worcester, and after a succes- ful assault reduced it to ashes. Not equally easy did he find the reduction of the castle, the siege of which, after numberless fruit- less efforts, he was obliged to abandon, leaving the forts he erected upon Henwick Hill to the norths west of the city, and upon part of the Eed Hill near Digley, to the south-east of which traces still remain as monuments of his visit. When the tyranny of John called forth the dor- mant energies of the nation in vindication of those rights which it was his endeavour to subvert, Worces- ter was not backward in displaying its zeal in the cause of liberty ; and when, in'tlie year 1214, that monarch held "his chief synod at this city, he was E beset 50 WORCFSTERSHIRE. beset v/ith petitions a'^ainst the numberless existing grievances, and the barons at the same time putting in their claims, and demanding redre-^s with no small urgency, he was shortly after obliged to subscribe his name to that memorable charter which is the ground-work of the i)resent stupendous superstruc- ture of our constitution, and is proudly and justly denominattd the Charter of British Liberty. John's acquiescence in this demand of the nation was, however, insuiiicient to pacify the turbulence of the barons, whose licentious arrogance seemed only to receive a fresh accession of virulence from this success, and shortly afier produced a war with their sovereign, in tiie course of which Philip, sou to Lewis, the King of France, was solicited to ac- cept of the crown. Siiortly after the commencement of these disastrous contests, tht' city of Worcester was, through tb.e power of William de Beauchamp, Lord of Worcester, the Karl of M client, and others Mho sided with the barons, placed in the hands of Philip. A long interval of traiiquiU.ty succeeded to these turbulent periods, and we do not hnd that tlie city of \Vorcester took any active part in the bloody contests which disgraced tlie ambitious struggles between the adherents of the wiiite and red rose ; VV orcester seems to have enjoyed profound peace, fven whde the din of civil discord rung around her. The arbitrary proccedingsof the silly and misguided Charles however once more raking up the embers of contention, and plunging the nation anew into the horrors of civil war, involved Worcester in the most calamitous sufferings, and rescued her citizens . from the inglorious thuugii happy oblivion in \Thich they had b(!ensolong permitted to repose. AVorces- tcr became in succession the refuge of the contend- ing parties, and her irdiabitants, even at the present remote period, shudder with horror at the recollec- tion of the sufferings of their ancestors. The roy- alists TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCfllPTTON, SI alisls, unable to retain posj5t ssion ot the city, were compelled to abandon it teethe pillage of the par- iiamejitary torce, and to this da) the vestiges of lluir barbarous impiet}' are visible in the many n)uti!ated luonimienls ni the cathedral. During the remainder of the contest Worcester experienced a variety of changes, each attended with a repetition of injury. During the protectorship of Cromwell it appears again to have enjoyed a temporary suspension of misfortunes, during the space of five years, when the flag of dehance was once more unfurled against the measures of the parliament, and Charles stood forward in assertion of Ins own claims to the crown. Charles at the head of the forces whom he had assembled in Scotland, and accompanied by such of the nobility, as, faithful in tneir allegiance, still adhered to the fallen fortunes of tiieir sovereign, presented himself before the gates ot Worcester, and though disappointed in the assistance which he had expected to receive duiing his march from the North, had the satisfaction of being cordially received by the inhabitants of Worcester, lirm in their allegi- ance, and sick of the anarchy which every where distracted the nation. From this city Charles pub- lished a manifesto declaratory of his pretensions, and calling upon all his liege subjects for their sup- po't. Tjut tlie enemy with whom Charles had to contend did not leave time for the nation to declare in his favour; abandoning the siege of St, John- stone's, in which he was engaged at the time of his receiving the intelligence ot the royal banner ilying once more upon the Castle of Worcester, he has- tened to check the further progress of his roval competitor, and establishing his head-quarters at ^Spetchley, prej)ared, as lie himself declared, fn chill tlipjiowfr of pride, btfovt it could arrive at a blossom. 'i'he day of his arrival was marked by the most vigorous commencement of hostilities, and the ac- E 2 tivity 52 WORCESTERSHIRE. tivity of his operations soon ensured their success; the memorable battle of Worcester seemed to bring the fortunes of the royalists to a final ruin, and Charles, reduced to the condition of a fugitive, sought in various disguises security against the vi- gilance of Jiis opponents. Worcester once more encountered the horrors of a stormed city, and the victorious troops of Cromwell at once satiated their avarice and gratified their revenge. The vandalism of those puritanical days, when bigotry assumed the mask of religion, and hypocrisy veiled the basest deeds, will ever be regretted by ihe admirer of an- tiquity, who beholds the barbarous mutilation of the must admirable decorations of our churciies. Since the period of the Restoration, Worcester, blessed with the possession of the most unbroken tranquillity, has progressively encreased in splen* dour and importance ; her porcelain manufactory in particular procures her celebrity, and she is rising with rapidity to an elevated rank among the commercial cities of this island. The city of Worce>.ter is agreeably situated in a rich vale upon the eastern bank of the Severn, and nearly in the centre of the county. It3 environs are extremely beautiful and fertile, and the various- outlets are emniently pleasing. 'Fhe woods which rise to the east shelter the town from the severity of the winds from that quarter, and form an agree- able termination to the view, while on the oppo- site side the rugged outline of the blue hills of Mal- vern out-top the intervening woods, and terminate the horizon. A strong wall, in which were six handsome gates, formerly secured the inhabitants from surprise at those unhappy periods when confusion, rapine, and dismay distracted the nation.' The return and per- manency of peace rendering these protections su- perfiuous, they have been removed to admit of the improvement of the city, the avenues of which have been TOrOGRAPHTrAL DESCRIPTION. *)S been of late much vi-idened and beautified ; the streets are in general broad, airy, and well paved and lighted, and their whole appearance is strongly expressive of the taste and opulence of the inhabi- tants. Tlie following are the just and sensible ob- servations of the learned Dr. Pasii, tlie laborious and accurate historiograplier of this county. " Let us admire the beauties and advantages of this town, which indeed are many and great ; the streets are broad, handsome, well built, and very xsell paved, having excellent flag pavement for foot passengers, and nt,' projecting signs. The niarl;ets are well supplied w;th all kinds of provisions, and as cheap as in any town in England, fish only ex- cepted, which, from its inland situation, it cannot have in such plenty as many otlier places. Indeed t!ie great concourse of polite strangers that come . here to reside from every quarter, shews the su- perior excellence of this town and neighbour- hood." Worcester appears in general to be a healthy town, and much attention has been paid of late to the state of the common sewers, and the supply of good water for the accommodation of tlie inhabi- tants ; for the latter purpose extensive water-works have been erected, at the expence of 1 i.OOOl. about a mile to the north of the city, upon the banks of the Severn. The government is vested in the mayor, recorder, eight aldermen and justices, 12 aldermen bv cour- tesy (having served tlie office of mayor), and 48 common-councilmen ; besides these there are two ciuiinberlains, a town-clerk, and other subordinate officers. The first charter was granted by Henry I. and renewed by Henry III. who lodged the goverh- inent of the city, which had hitherto been intrusted to a constable, in the hands of two bailiffs. The various confirmations of this charter by succeeding monarcbs produced no change in the^foim of the X 3 government 54 WORCESTERSHIRE. government, till James L in the 19th year of his icign transferred the supreme power from the bai- lilfs to the mayor. The city was for a few years deprived of its charter by Charles II. in whose cause they had so severely suffered ; but that mo- narch shortly restored to it all its ancient rights by public proclamation. It returns two members to parliament, who are elected by freemen not receiving alms ; the number of electors is about 2,400, the mayor for the time; being is the returning ofiilcer. Among the pub- lic buildings we shall notice the most remark- able. Entering the city from the west, we cross the Severn by an extremely elegant stone bridge of rive semicircular arches, built under the direction of the late Mr. Gwynn, and exhibiting an exquisite specimen of his architectural taste and skill. The iirst stone was laid by the Earl of Coventry, upcit the 25th of July, 1771, and it was completed in 178r, at the expence'of about 30,0001. of which sum 3,000'. was contributed by the two representatives in pai- liament for the city, H. C. Boulton and J. Walsh, Eso^s. To make the approaches to the city corres- pond with the beauty of this structure, the avenues upon each side have been laid open to a very com- modious extent, and a handsome street named from the bridge has been built, thus opening an airy and elegant communication with the interior of the city. Among the ornan:ients which decorate th.e bridge, are the head of Sabiina over the centre arch north- ward, and the city arms southward. At the west end are two elegant toll-houses. Taking our course hence in an easterly direc- tion up the spacious street we have just noticed, among the improvements made at the same tin e with the bridge, the rirst building we meet is the parish Church of All Saints, a handsome modern edifice^ situated upon the right hand, in the open space •Topographical description. 55 space formed at the junction of Bridge Street and JBroad Street. I'he parish to which this chiircli be- longs is the most populous within the precincts of the city, and is a rectory in the gift of the crown. — The interior of tiie church is spacious and elegant^ well adapted to the accommodaiion of its numerous congregation. Hence taking a southerly direction down Pump Street, we leave upon oiir left a Methodist Meeting- house, and continuing our route, reach the old but liiuch admired parish Church of St. Andrews, sup- posed to have be(iii founded about the 1 Ith century. The beautiful and lofty spire of this structure has attracted much attention, and obtained much com- mendation, being accounted tlie most perfect in its form and ingenious in its construction of any in the kingdom. This beautiful piece of architecture is a specunen of the untutored abilities of a native of Worcester oftiie name of Nathaniel Wilkinson, who followed the occupation of a common stone mason. The chief beauty of this spire consists in the accu- racy of its proportions, by which it diminishes al- most insensibly from its base, and at its summit ap- pears to the observer from below to terminate in the finest point, unlike other much celebrated spires, as for example that of Salisbury, which when examined with attention, presents an abrupt termination. The following are the dimensions, as furnished by the builder himself. The height of the tower, which is part of the old fabric ^ - _ - The height of the spire . _ - Total elevation of the Tower and spire - The diameter of the base of the spire is 20 The diameter of the top of the spire under the cap » » - « , 6 St. bd WORCESTERSHIRE. St. Andrews is a vicarage in the gift of iUc clean and chapter of Worcester, and though an old chnrcii, as we have already observed, exhibits at present a n*?at and handsome appearance, from the many njo- dern improvements that have been made. In Falace Row, s(»me\vhat to the south of St. Andrew's Church, is situated the Royal China Ma- nufactory, conducled i)y Messrs. Flight and Barr. — 1 his t\as originally established in 173 1, and continued in a number of proprietors under the firm of ihe Worcester Porcelain Company till the yeiir 178.;, when the whole was purcliased by Thomas Flight, K>q. of Hackney, Middlesex, from whom it was conveyed to Messrs. Joseph Flight and Martin Barr, the present proprietors and conductors This ma- nufactory v,'3.< honoured, during the visit of the royal family to W\>rce5ter in the year 1788, by the King's personal examination and approbation. By application at the retail shop, No. 43, High Street, tickets of admission to view the manufactory- are easily obtained. I'he following is the process which is followed: — The silicious and ather hard such pieces as have been warped by too great heat in them are reburned in the second. After tiiis the articles are prepared for receiving their glaring, which accomplished they are a third time committed to the (ire, and when the glaze is suffi- ciently vitrified, they are taken out, and when cool, receive their tinal embellishment in the painting- room ; they are then a fourth time condemned to the furnace for the purpose of incorporating the gilding and colours with the glaze, after which they undergo the final process of burnishing which per- fects them for the market. Much has bten said respecting the superiority of the porcelain manufactured here; but we must with no small regret withhold our unqualified assent to the following extravagant panegyric which has been passed upon it. " The body of the Worcester ware far exceeds every other in lineness and whiteness, in which it almost, if not altogether, equals even the finest porce- lain of China itself, and is found to be much harder, and more durable than the body of any other porce- lain whatever. The glazing of it never nips, breaks oif, or parts from the body, except by extreme "violence, and iheii it discovers no brov.nness, such as is often seen in the ordinary Chinese, and almost always, after v.'ear, in the other kinds of porcelain: it is also perfectly clear and transpart-nt, which is a quality that almost peculiarly distinguishes it froni the others of European manufacture " Porcelain is a kind of enamel obtained by the combination of materials of difkrent fusibility ; the substances enjployed by the CMiuiese arc dci.omi- nated the Petunse and the Kablin ; and the re- searches of mineralogists have ascertained the exis- tence of substances possessing similar properties in various 58 WORCEStERSHtRK. various parts of this Island ; a decomposed quartz closely resembling it in its appearance and chemical properties, has been abundantly found upon the sununitand acclivities of the Pentland range of hills, at a short distance south of Edinburgh; it has also been procured in large quantities from Cornwall, and an admixture of this with the fine white ?i1ici- ous sand from the Isle of Wierht and calcined bones, forms, in most ca^^es the composition of our porce- lain. The pencils of the tirst artists have been em- ployed in the decoration of the Worcester porce- lain, many sets of which furnish a variety of beau- tifully-executed views of Englir^h scenery, and re- flect honour upwn the proprietors, as well as the country at large. Besides the manufactory of Messrs. Flight and Barr, another of ecjual reputation has been estab- lished by Chamberlain and Co. which seems de- termined not to yield the palm of competition to their rivals; the productions here are equally famed for their taste and elegance. At a short distance south of Fliglit and Barr's ma- nufactory is the Bishop's Palace, an ancient yet commodious structure, delightfully situated upon a gentle eminence, sloping with the most gradtial in- clination towards the Severn, which forms the wes- tern boundary of the gardens. The east front of this building is neat and regular; while the west, vi'hich overlooks the river, presents a motly, yec not disagreeable admixture of modern repairs with the aiicieiit Gothic. The interior, though the work of various ages, is divided into many ^commodious apartments, and was much improved in the year 1778, at which time the royal family visited the city of \A'orcester, and made this palace their place of residence. Giftard, while bisliop of Worcester, surrounded the palace with embattled walls, and IVishop Stil- linglleet added a new front. The gardens are laid TOrOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 5r? out with judgment, and command a rich and beau- tiful prospect. Not very remote from the Palace is the Catherlral^ a noble structure, and ot an imposing appearance, notwithstanding the diversities ot style exhibited in its architecture, which was the work of various, and frequently very remote periods. Its general plan is that of a double cross, a mode generally used in the erection of cathedrals, and in whicli both the strength and grandeur of the Gothic ta^te are emi- nently conspicuous. Its internal dimensions are, to- tal lengtli from ea>t to west 394 feel ; length of the choir ]'20 ; breadth of the nave and aisles 78 ; height of the roof of the choir t)4 feet. The interior has of late been much improved by the liberality of the dean and chapter. The earliest mention made of this cathedral is iti the charter of Ethelred, in ihe year 743; no further account is preserved till the period of its destruc- tion by thetorces of liardicanute, shortly after which it was rebuilt ; such, however, was its ruinous con- dition that Bishop VVulstan, in the year 1084, found it necessary to rebuild it entirely. After the Con- quest several of our kings passed the Christmas holida\s at Worcester, and regularly attended di- vine worship in the cathedral. In the year 1158 Henry II. kept his Christmas here, and held a great assembly of the nation, being attended in the cathe- dral with all the dignity and splendour of royalty: he sat during the time of divine service with the crown upon his head, as kings were at that time ac- customed to do at solemn feasts, but upon the con- clusion of the ceremony, he took off his crown, and, as a sign of his humility, placed it upon the altar, declaring at the same time, that '' God alone was worthy of the crown," nor did he ever afterwards wear this ensign of royalty. The piety of Bishop G-iifard, and after him of many other persons, contributed greatly to the de- coration (30 V>'ORCESTERSHIRE. coration of this church, but the turious zeal of the Puritans, when during the civil wars, they obtained possession by storm of the city of AVorcester, nuiti- lated the monuments, disfigured the decorations, broke the beautifui windows, and destroyed the no- ble organ belonging to the cathedral ; nor did the vandali-^m and impiety of these tasteless plunderers rest satiated with these injuries; they converted the temple of that Deity whose cause they pre- tended to espouse, into the theatre of their enormi- ties, bringing their horses into the body of the church, keeping fives and courts of guard in it, plun- dering the library, tearing in pieces the bible and ser- vice books of the choir, and riding about the streets clad in the sacred vestments, out of derision t(x the .priests. Worcester Cathedral is said to have been con- structed upon the model of the ci^llegiate church at Brussels. The stalls in the choir are of Irish oak, beautifully carved, and were made in the year \3'j7. 'i'he pulpit, wliich is octagonal, is constructed of stone, carved, after the Gothic fashion, with the four evangelic hieroglyphics, and a curious repre- ss ntation of the New Jerusalem, according to the description given in the Revelations. The altar- piece, which is of plain oak, with Corinthian pilas- ters, has in its centre pannel a beautiful painting of the Descent from the Cross, which was, in tiie year 1792, presented to the dean and chapter, by Valen- tine Green, Esq. F. A. S. I'he bishop's throne is very ancient, on the top is the symbol of ecclesiasti-. cal jurisdiction, accompanied by the olive branch and other emblems of peace. The organ consists of nine stops, of which the trumpet-^top is allov, ed to be ihe finest in the kingdom : the last repairs of this noble iristrument cost 3001. which was obtained by a subscription among the neighbouring nt^bilily. ■J he cloister containing the library was built m j$73 ] in th^ cloister is also the coliege-hall, in which the TOPOGRAPHICAL DtSCRIPTION. 6l the oratorios are performed at the triennial meet-. ings of the three choirs, for the benefit of the widows and orphans of the clergy. The principal monument in this cathedral is that of King John. It is situated at the upper end of the choir near the altar ; upon it is a representation of that monarch wearing his crown with the inscription Johannes Rex Anglic, at present much defaced ; he holds a sceptre in his right hand, and in his left, which is stretched along his side, is a sword, the point of which enters the mouth of a lion which lies at his feet. Small statues of the Bishops Oswald and Wulstan, are placed recumbent upon each side. Doubts were entertained as to this tomb be- ing more than an empty sarcophagus, and that the remains of John were still interred in the spot where they had at first been deposited, namely, in the X^ady's Chapel of the cathedral, between the sepul- chres of St. Oswald and St. Wul?tan, in front of the altar of the Blessed Virgin ; it being conjectured that when this monument was erected in the choir at the time of the Reformation, the effigy alone of the monarcli had been removed. It was accordingly resolved at the next general repair of the cathedral to solve these doubts, and in case of their conjectures being realized to remove theefiigy back again to its original place. Accord- ingly upon Monday, the l7th of July, 1797, they proceeded, to open the tomb, first removing the effigy, and stone slab on which it rested ; when by this means the interior of the monument was laid open they observed two brick partition walls, raised to assist in supporting the superincumbent covering and figure of the king. The spaces between these walls and the ends of the tomb are filled with rub- bish. Upon removing the end and one of the pau- iiels at each side, when they had remo^■ed t!ie rub-» bish, they discovered two strong elm bo;irds, origi- nally joined by a batten nailed to eacii end, but J' \^'hiQb 62 WORCESTERSHIRE. which dropping otf had left the boards loose. Un- der these boards was toiind a stone coffin, contain- ing the royal corpse, which was observed to be placed in tlie coliiti exactly as the figure upon the top of the tomb represented. I'he skull, instead of being placed as usual, had the foramen magpuni turned upwards ; the interior part of the os frontis was much decayed ; the ossa masillaria superiora were wholly detached from the other bones ot the face and found near the elbow of the right arm, they contained four teelli in sound condition: the lower jaw bones were also separated, but contained no teeth ; some grey hairs were observed near tiie up- per part of the cranium, in the vicinity of the sagit- tal suture ; the ulna of the left arm, which had been folded across the body, was found lying on the breast; the ulna of the right arm was nearly in its proper position; but neither of the radii nor any of the bones of the hand could be found : the ossa femorum, tibi;e, libula*, and other bones of the iiiferior extremities were very perfect, and upon some of tlie bones of the to£s belonging to the right foot were even found vestiges of the nails. Some large pieces of mortar were found on and below tlie abdomen, from which there could be no doubt of the body having been removed from the original place of its interment. The dress of the corpse seems to have corresponded with that of the efhgy, excepting the gloves on its hands, and the crown on its head, which on the skull in the cotfin was found to be the celebrated monk's cowl in which, as a passport through the regions of purgatory, he is recorded to have been buried. This sacred en- velope appeared to have lilted the head very closely, and had been tied or buckled under the chin by straps, part of which remained. The body was covered with a robe reaching from the neck nearly to the feet, some of its embroidery was still visible near its right knee ; it appeared to have been made ■ TOrOGft-APrilCAL DESCfilPTION. 65 made of strong crimson damask, but the injuries of time rendered it ditiicult to ascertain this exactly ; the cuff of the left hand remained : fragments of tlie sword and its scabbard, whicn had been placed in the left hand, still remained ; the scabbard was more perfect than the sword. On the legs ther;^ had been an ornamental covering tied at the ancles and extending over the feet, where the toes were visible througli its decayed parts. The coffin is of the stone from Iligley'in this county, and wholly unlike that of wliich'the tomb is constructed ; a very considerable fracture runs obliquely through it, one foot six inches from the left, and two feet nine inches from the right shoulder. The coffin is laid upon the pavement of the choir without being let into it. Its original covering is the stone upon which the effigy is cut, which exactly corresponds ■with it in shape and dimensions. The confusion occasioned by the crowds who impatiently came to see the unexpectedly-discovered remains of the^ king, rendered it necessary to shut up the object of their curiosity, which was accordingiy done upon the evening of the second day. The tomb was then restored to its former condition. In Prince Arthur's chapel, upon the left side of the communion table, is the tomb of the prince to whom the chapel is consecrated, and who was elder brother to Henry VIII. lliis is the most curious and elaborate piece of ancient grandeur in the ca- thedral. The decorations consist of tive orders of images, namely, virgins, bishops, kings, confessors, and angels, with the arms of England and other symbols of royalty. I'he top is terminated in an arched roof, curiously fretted, in whose centre is a pendant, on the boss of which are the arms of the Prince of Wales, carved in stone. Beneath this is hi^ tomb of fine marble ; having round its upper- most verge the following incription : f 2 " Here €4 V/ORCEStERSHlRk. *' Here lyeth buried Princl Akthur, the first begotten Sonne of tlie right renowned King Henry tlie Sea- venth, which noble prince departed out of this tran- sitory life att the castle of Ludlow, the seaventeenthe yeare of his father's reign, and of our Lord God, one thousonde five hundred and two." In our Lady's Chapel are the tombs of St. Oswald and Wulstan, with many others. In the north tran- sept is a superb monument, to the memory of Dr. iiough, bishop of this diocese, and head of Magda- len College, Oxford. He is represented sitting in a reclmed posture, his right elbow resting on some books, his hands clasped and raised in an attitude of devotion corresponding with the expression of his countenance. The drapery is most admirably exe- cuted. On thp left is a rigure of Religion^ holding a book in one hand, and with the other lifting up the flowing edge of his robe, to display another minia- ture representation of the bishops who appears here standing before the high commission court which ejected him from the government of Magdalen Col- lege. Three tools of tyranny are seated on a bench, a secretary minuting their proceedings, and the doc- tor at the head of the fellows, making his defence. — This masterly specimen of sculpture is the produc- tion of Roubilliac, upon whose taste and skill both tlie design and execution reflect no small degree of credit. In the south transept, a little to the left of Bishop Johnson's, is a magnificent monumeut to the me- mory of that venerable and pious prelate Bishop Maddox. On tlie front of the monument is repre- sented, in basso-relievo, the parable of the Samari- tan ; above is a hgure of Conjugal Fidelity leaning in a melancholy posture, with onti hand resting upon an inverted hymeneal torch ; this figure is as large as life. Upon the Dissolution, Henry VIIL granted the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOI^. 6^? T*"vcuues and manors which had belonged to the an- cient priory of Worcester, to the dean and chapter of this cathedral, whose foundation charter is dated i?4th January, lj4l, for the endowment of a dean, 10 prebendaries, 10 minor canons, 10 lay clarks, 10 choristers, two scliool-masters, 40 king's scholar>", Sec. Of the ten prebends, ni?re are in the gift of the crown, and one annexed by act of parliament to the Margaret professorship of divinity in the Uni- versity of Oxford. The bishopric of Worcester includca the entire of the county of Worcester, and extends into War- \\ickshire, contains 'i4l parishes, and was found- ed in tjHO, by Ethelred, King of Mereia, who ap- pointed 1 "adfrith to be the first bishop. To the south of the cathedral is an open place called the College frreen, and a little further south is the City Gaol ; a little to the west of which is the site of the ancient Castle, which was formerly a large and magnificent structure, of which, however, but few traces at present remain, and those little in- dicative of its pristine importance. Part of thr for- tifications still remain, and the course of the outer ditch towards Kdgar's Tower may be easily traced. Edgar's Tower, which still braves the assaults of time, constituted the principal entrance to the cas- tle, and is the finest remnant of anti-.juity in the whole city ; it was bui'.t, as appevirs from an inscrip* tion upon it, in the year 970. Jn front are the sta- tues of Edgar and his two queens, much defaced by time. The situation of this castle was admirably selected both for health and strength. I'he mount upon which the keep originally stood is now occu- pied by an agreeable garden. At the south-eastern extremity of the citv is the small but neat parochi.-rl Church" of St. Pete?s, the whole of which, and especially the tower, has been lately repaired and beautified. This chureb was founded about the year 1280, and belonged, prior F 3 to 66 WORCESTERSHIRE, to the Dissolution, to the Abbey of Pershore. This living is in the gift of the chapter of Worcester. St. Helen's is said to be the most ancient church in Worcester, and Leland in his itinerary further adds, " That it was a prebend, before King Edgar's days, to the diocese of Worcester; it stands upon the west side of the High Street, between the Guild Hall and tiie Cathedral, and has an ancient and venerable appearance. The tower contains a good ring of eight bells, remarkable for being inscribed with notices of the principal victories obtained dur- ing the reign of Queen x\.nne. This rectory is in the gift of the bishop. In a street leading to the east from the High Street, a little beyond St. Helens, is a Meeting- house, belonging to the sect of Independents. Fur- ther north, upon the west side of the High Street, is tire Guild Hall, a modern building, fmished about the year 1723, after a design by Mr. White, a native of this town, and pupil of the great Sir Christopher Wren, The facade is remarkably beautiful, and enriched with a multitude of statues. The hall is an extremely light and handsome room, measuring 110 feet six inches in length, 25 feet six inches in breadth, and 21 feet in height. Towards the west are two spacious courts of justice, projecting from the principal building, that upon the south side for the Nisi Prius bar, and tiie other for the crown bar. Here are held the sessions and assizes both for the city and county. In the upper part of the structure is the Council Chamber, a most sumptuous apart- ment, in the centre of which, placed iipo'n an ele- gant marble pedestal, is a portrait of his present ISIajesty, presented by him to the corporation. The Inhrmary is an elegant modern structure, situated a iilth^ to the south of Foregate Street, in an extremely agreeable and healthy part of the town ; i.t was established at the instance of JSir John Rushoutj who TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. G7 who contributed 3001. towards the undertaking. This excellent charity is supported by the interest of various legacies which have been left to it, aided by the annual subscriptions of the inhabitants. In Angel Street^ which branches otf to the west from Foregate Street, a little beyond the Cross, is situated the Theatre, a neat commodious structure, erected by a kind of Tontine subscription. Plays are represented here four tiraes a week during the season, under the superintendance of Messrs. Wat- son and Hoy. The charitable institutions in this city are nume- rous and well conducted: besides the Infirmary, al- ready noticed there are the following hospitals, Berkeley's, founded by tlie judge of that name for 12 poor men ; St. Oswald's for io men, and 12 wo- men ; Skirving's, for six poor women ; Inglethorp^s, for eight men, and one women ; the Trinity, en- dowed by Queen Elizabeth, for 2y poor women; Nash's, for eight men and two women ; Wyat's, for six poor men, besides which there are a multitude of others upon a still smaller scale. The Library is a modern establishment, conducted by a librarian with an adequate salary, and the col- lection of books is annually increased by the select purchases of tiie library committee. The House of indu>try is a handsome and spaci- ous building, liealthily and agreeably situated upon a rising ground to the east of ihe city, and is well adapted to the ust-s for which it was erected. It was built under an act of the 32d year of his present Majesty, and the management of it is vested in the hands of 12 directors; the number of persons it is calculated to receive is 150. 'Fhe attempts whicii have been made to introduce different manufactures into this worknouse have in a great degree proved abortive. Besides the cathedral and the other churches which we have noticed, there are seven mord- churches 68 WORCESTERSHIRE. churches of the establishment, viz. St. Peters, Sf. Swithin's, St. Alban's, St Michael's, St. Martins, St. Nicholas, and St. Clements : and in addition to these the Roman Catholics, Presbyterians, Quakers, Anabaptists, Methodists, Independants, and the fre- tiuentcrs of Lady Huntingdon's Chapels, have their respective places of worship. Worcester had the honour of giving birth to seve- ral of our most eminent characters, in general no less distinguished for their learniiig than their vir- tues; among the more ancient we observe the names of William of Worcester, author ot the Itinerary.— Hemingus, a monk, the accurate and industrious collector of materials for the illustration of the re- mote history of the see of Worcester ; Senatus Bra- vonius, author of an account of the lives of St. Oswald and St. VVulstan, as also various other works ; Florence of Worcester, the faithful epit«)- miser of Marianus Scotus. Among the more modern, we may notice the learned and ingeaious Earl of Worcester, famed for his philosophical speculations, and for the publica- tion of his Century of Inventions ; Lord Somers, dis- tinguished for his political talents; ixluard K»:lly, Doted for his chemical knowledge ; and still more recently Mr. T. White, the architect, under whose :iuspices the New Guild Hall was erected, and ■wliose talents were otherwise employed in the deco^ lation of his native city. This man, haviiig served 3 regular time with a statuary in Piccadilly, near iiyde Park, being remarkably ingenious, attracted the attention and obtained the patronage of Sir Christopher Wren, by whom he was taken to Rome, v.here in his intervals of leisure he took the admea- purements of all the constituent parts of St. Pettrr's C InuTh, and assisted his patron in forming a model o\ St. Paul's in London. Ujjon his return to Eng- ];uh!, Sir Christopher would have retained him as i b .'ortMUcin lo siiperuitcnd the buriding of St. Paul's, but TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 69 but he, having an estate in the vicinity of Worces- ter, preferred returning to his native city, where he obtained no small reputation as an architect. The last person we shall notice is John Basker- ville, of deservedly higd typographic reputation. He was born in Worcester in the year 1706, and was lirst apprenticed to a stone-cutter ; afterwards he became a writing master at Birmingham ; but preferring the practice of painting, he soon aban- doned that of writing, and applied iiimself with the greatest success to the more lucrative branch of ja- panning. A taste for literature, and a desire of ac- quiring renown, soon diverted his attention Irom this occupation to the press^ and his splendid edi- tion of Virgil was the first fruit of his long and pa- tient efforts at producing a clear and beautiful type. We are sorry to add that upon his death, in the year 1775, no purchasers could be found in this country for his elegant types, and that, to the disgrace of our nation and universities, a foreign society alone was found to possess sufficient taste to appreciate their merits and to purchase them. The city of Worcester has long ranked high among the manufacturing towns of this island ; Leland, a writer of the time of Henry Vlil, remarks upon, this subject, " Tiie weaithe of Worcester standeth most by draperynge, and no towne of England att the presente tyme maketh so much cloth yearly as this towne doth." The manufacturers of broad cloth received their first charter of incorporation in the second year of Henry the Eighth's reign, and till the conclusion of the last century their trade was very flourishing ; since that period, however, the frequently-detected cheats ef the manufacturers, co-operated with other causes in ruining the trade. The glove manufactory here is very extensive, furnishing employment for a very considerable por- tion of the poorer classes, and bringing no small in- lluK /^' \VORCE:*TERSHIRF.. -flux of wealth into the city. The gloves manufafi- tured at Worcester and in its vicinity are highly prized, and eagerly sought, not only at lioine, but also by foreigners. The number of persons em- ployed by this trade in the citv onlv is estimated sit 6000. The porcelain manufacture we have noticed else- where; the two manufactories are Flight and Harris already described, and that of Chamberlain and Co. The hop trade is highly beneficial to Worcester ; the market in which tliis article is exposed for sale, is a large and regular building, inclosing a spacious quadrangle, and situated nearly in the centre of the city ; it is surrounded by cojnmodious warehouses, the rents of which, under the direction of the guar- dians of the respective parishes in the city, are ap- plied to the support of the workhouse. The hop trade is conducted upon an extensive scale, and the averaged annual sale is about 23,000 pockets. The distillery is conducted in a tolerably exten- sive manner, the weekly duty amounting to up- wards of 7001. in general ; it is well managed and promises to improve. Worcester could formerly boast of a carpet ma- nufacture ; but in this, as in the broad cloth manu- facture, her rivals have obtained the superiority, and this branch of trade no longer exists. This city possesses the singular advantage of hav- ing a number of highly agreeable walks in its vici- nity, all of which abound in picturesque scenery. — Upon the western bank of the Severn have been lately established public gardens, which are much frequented during the summer months ; from their beautiful situation adjoining to the river, they have been called The Portobello Gardens ; the view of Worcester from hence is extremely pleasing. W^orcester has three weekly markets, upon Wed- nesday, Friday, and Saturday ; the following mar- kets TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 7i kets are toll-tVf e, viz. the second Monday in Feb- ruary, lirst Monday in May, lirst ^Monday in June, iirst Monday in July, and iirst. Monday in Novem- ber. There are also rive annual fairs, held as fol- lows : upon the Saturday preceding Pahn Sunday, Saturday in Easter week, 15th of August, lyth of September, and the first Monday in December. — ■ The hop-market is governed by guardians, elect- ed from among the inhabitants of the several pa- rishes. The population of Worcester amounted in the reign of Klizabeih, when the iirst returns extant were made, to 1025 families, which at the moderate calculation of tour persons to each family gives 4,100 persons for the population. In I77y, according to the accurate survey of Mr. G. Young, the number of houses in the city and suburbs was ~,449, con- taining a population of about 13,l04 perssns. Tiie number of houses at present amounts to about •2,ii37, and the population to nearly 1 1,352, of which number 4,tj0y are males, and 6443 females. Ckookuakkow Hill is situated to the soutli- east of the city of Worcester ; here was a small ma- nor-iiouse surrounded by a moat ; immediately be- hind which is the Hill, which takes its name from trie Welch Crug, which signifies a hill, and Barrou', and signihes the hill with a barrow, or place of burial, it is of an elliptic form, and contt ; it after- wards came into the possession of the Beauchainp family. We now return from this digression, to Pershore, where the road to Evesham crosses the celebrated •waters of Shakespear's Avon. About two miles from Pershore, upon the north side of the Avon, is the village of FLADBURY,wher».', as Leland informs us, there was formerly an abbey, founded about the year 691, by Ostlore, Bishop of AVorcester ; at Abbp.rton, near this, is a mineral spri;^ig, containing a large quantity of the sulphate of n^agnesia, or bitter purging salt in solution. On tiiC opposite side otthe river, situated between two reaches of the Avon, is Charltok, a liamlet belonging to Cr.pthorn, a village adjoining to it. This place takes its i-^.rj.vAt from the family of Charl- tons, to whom it belonged prior to the reign of E.ichard U. when it passed by marriage with the lieiress, to the iamily of Dineley, who sold it, after the nmrder of Sir Juhn Dinelry Goodyere, Bart. Three miles hence we come to the ancient market and borough town of EVESIIAM, Or, as it is commonly though improperly called, luaham, which stands agreeably upon a gentle emi- iHMice near tlie river Avon, over which there is a good stone bridge of seven arches. Evesham is a borough TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 75 borough by prescription, and was govt- rned by bai-' litis t 11 the reigu of James L. who, at the request of his son, Prince Henry, granted it a charter ot in- corporation by the style of the mayor and corpora- tion of Evesham. The governnuuit is vested m the mayor, recorder, seven aldermen, 12 common-coun- cihiien, and '24 as.^istants, with a caamberlam, town clerk, &c, 'i'heir privileges are very extensive; the mayor and four of the aldermen ueing justices of the peace, justices of Oyer and Terminer, and gaol- delivery, with the power of punishing all manner of crimes committed within their liberties, high treason alone excepted. The tirst return by this borough was made in the 23d year of Edward I. after which we hear of no more returns, till the commencement of tlie reign of James I. It lat present returns two members to parliament; the right of election be- longs to the common burgesses, and the mayor is the returning officer. I'his town was formerly famous for its stately abbey, the abbot of which sat in parliament as a spiritual lord, and exercised an episcopal jurisdic- tion over his clergy. This abbey was founded in 709 by Egwin, a prince of the blood-royal, who hav- ing been elected liishop of Worcester, v>a3 unjustly deprived of it by tlie Pope, after which he retired to this place, and founded the monastery. The re- venues of this house amounted at the Dissolution to 1,1831.^ 12s. 9d. Its site was granted to Philip Hobby, Esq. /I'he principal part of the remains of the monastic buildings is a large elliptic gateway, measuring 17 feet from the ground to the key stone ; the arch is divided by three sets of mouldings into three ranges of niches, each filled with well sculp- tured figures, eight in each range, now much de- faced. Evesham is memorable on account of the battle fought in its vicinity upon the 4th of August, 12(35, b-'tween Simon Montford, Earl of Leicester, and o 5i Prince, "^6 WORCLSTERSHIRE. Prince, afterwards King Edward I. In this decisive engagement, Leicester, with ahnost all the barons who had taken up arms against the king, fell, leav- ing the gallant Edward the honour of restoring his father Henry III. to the throne of his ancestors. The tower at this place is a beautiful regular struc- ture, measuring about twenty-two feet square, and one hundred and seventeen liigh, it is i)erhap3 the last popish building erected m this country ; it still serves the purpose of a belfry and clock tower. There are three parish churches within this bo- rough, of which two are situated in Evesham, pro- perly so called, and the other in that division called Eengworth, at the foot of the bridge, these are handsome buildings, with towers at their western extremities. The charitable establishments are, a weU-endowed free grammar-school, a charity-school lor 30 boys, and a few alms-houses. Of the castle -.viiich formrely stood here there are no remains. The prospect from hence along the beautiful vale of Evesham, through which the Avon winds, is re- markably hne, and has deservedly obtained much admiration ; near the bridge there is a convenient harbour for barges. Gardening is the chief employment of the poor here, who supply the markets of I5irmingl'-am, Chel- tenham, Tewkesbury, and V\'orctster, and during the asparagus season, send large quantities of that Tegetable to the cities of Bath and 15ristol. The wtekly-market is held upon Monday ; there are also four fairs, viz on the second of February, the next Monday after Easter Monday, Whit Mon- day, and the 21st of September. Crossing the Avon we enter the suburb of F>ve- sham, called Bengeworth, and at the distance of about live miles reach the village of Bkoadway, to the south of which rises a hill of the same name, and of considerable elevation ; Spring Hill is seated up- on its southern declivity. Quitting TOPOGRAPHfCAL DESCRllPTlON. U Quitting the county of Worcester, at the village of Broadway, we cross an insulating streight of Gloucestershire, and enter one of those isolated portions of the county of Worcester, of which we have already made mention. In this part is situated the village of ljLocKLf:Y, where, previous to the Re- formation, stood a palace belonging to the Bishops of Worcester, at which they frequently resided. The house is totally demolished, but a hill opposite to the vicarage still retains the name of the Parks. The fosse-way runs out of Gloucestershire through the village of" Born in this parish. According to tradition, this village was formerly a city of some consecjucnce, and the. many old foundations and Roman and British coins found in this neighbour- hood seem to countenance the probable truth of the rej)ort. M present, however, Dorn can only boast the possession of three farm-houses. A little to the north of Dorn, is another isolated part of Worcestershire, near the sowthern extremity of which is the neat little market town of ' . SHIPSTON-UPON-STOUIl, Vv'hich is situated 85 miles from London, in the I)arish of Tredington, to which it is a chapelry. Here was formerly a shagg manufactory, ebtablished by a gentleman oftlie iiame of iiart ; it has long how- ever fallen to decay. The river Stour, from which this town derives its distinguishing name, tiows to the east, and for some miles forms the eastern bonn;- dary of this long and narrov/ insulated portion of of WorcesterslVire. Shipston lias a large weekly- jnarket upon Friday; and two annual fairs, upon the 2Jd of June, and tlie 'l\iesday which occurs next after the l tur 80 \V©RCESrF.RSIIIRE. lure to keep up the use of them ; for in I j/l^ an act was passed, recjuiring " that all above the age of six years, except some of a certain state and con- dition, shall wear upon the sabbath and holydays, upon their heads, one cap of wool knit, thicked and dressed ip England, upon the forfeiture of three shil- lings and four-pence." 1 3th Elizabeth, chap. 19. The introduction of liats first injured this trade ; still however it is carried on, though to a less extent than formerly. The tanning business formerly fur- nished employment for a large number of the inha- bitants, and the extent of the trade may be estimated from the remaining tan yards, as also from tiie many acts of their public munificence which stand upon record. I'he tirst attempt at establishing a free grammar-school here was made by a tanner ; besides this the benefactions of many otliers of the same trade are recorded ', thvi number of tan yards at present employed is three. The working of horn seems to have long constituted an occupation of many persons here. From the numerous malt- liouses of which traces are still preceptible, it ap- pears that this town formerly drove a very exten- sive and lucrative trade in that article, the decay of which is not improbably ascribed to the openiug of a communication by an excellent turnp/ike road, between the parts of Shropshire bordering upon 'I en- bury and Ludiow, which were formerly the chief vents for malt, with the city of Worcester. An ex- tensive and highly beneficial trade in groceries has been for a great "length of time a source of no in- considerable wealth to the burgesses of Bewdley, who purchase these articles wholesale, and supply the inland shops of the adjacent country, at the re- tail prices, with such things as they cannot procure at Bristol ; the opening of the Staftbrdshire Canal seems however to have diminished this trade con- siderably. Here is a free Grammar-school, founded towards the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 81 the close of Elizabeth's rtign, and supported by the voluntary contributions of the benevolent, whose names are recorded on a tablet hung up in the school-room. Besides tlie free-school, another cha- ritable school has been established, and is supported by the annual subscriptions of the burgesses and other inhabitants ; besides their education, which is wisely adapted to their situation in life, the boys and girls are annually clothed, and regularly attend upon divine service. With a view to furnishing the poor with emnloy- ment, a fund has been established, by voluntary sub ■ scription, for setting on foot an extensive flannel manufactory, wher-eby numbers who were before without employment are enabled to support them- selves without the disgrace of coming upon the parish in their old age ; this establishment resem- bles one at Shrewsbury, except that this is unaided by parliament. Besides the foregoing charitable in- stitutions, tlurre are several comfortable alms-houses here which are well endowed. The bridge over the Severn was, we believe, erected by Edward IV. whose predecessor Henry VI. in the 38th year of his reign, contributed all the stone requisite for its construction. Upon the middle pair is situated a wooden gate-house, the north end of which serves as a dwelling-house for the toll-gatherer, while the corporation use the other for a prison, which is commonly called the Ijridge-house. Of the tolls taken at the gate here, that for a mill stone amounting to six siiillings and sixpence is most enormous. Bewdley is situated in the parish of Bibbesworth, to which the churci. here is a chapel of ease. Previous to the reign of Edward VI. there were chauntries annexed to the chapel here, which was constructed of timber; these chauntries, however, with the rest in various parts of the kingdom, were suppressed by- Slat. I. of that monarch, and their estates vested in the crown ; 82 WORCESTERSHIRE. crown ; but the chapel remained unaltered. Phihp and Mary, by their letters patent, granted to this chapel an annual stipend of 8'. per annum. At the west end of the old chapel, just above the souih door, there was a strong tower, with an inscription on its front towards the 'J'own Hall, mention mg the builder, and tlie date of its erection; both which were taken down in 1745 in order to be rebuilt; AVilliam Bowles, Esq. who at that time was member for this borough, contributed largely towards the re- pairs of the chapel ; the Kev. 1 homas Knight, who then w.i8 rector of the parish of ilibbesford, took down the steeple, and rebuilt it, as far as the old materials went, at his own expence : besides these there were other contributors to the work. The new chapel, which is a neat edifice situated nearly in the centre of the town, was linished, and divine ser- vice performed in it for the hrst time upon the Qbih day of March i748. At no great distance below the chapel, were the old shambles on the walk, as commonly called, be- ing a long range of limber building open on both sides, which upon the building of the new shambles in 1783, were taken down. The first charter of incorporation was that granted to them by Edward iV. by which they obtained many valuable privileges by land and by sea ; in this charter they are styled " the Burgesses of Bewd- ley and the precincts thereof." Henry VII I, twice contirined these immunities. The charter of James I. is that under which the corporation is at present go- verned ; the corporation consists of a bailiff, lii al- dermen, and burgesses, who are empowered to enact such regulations as may seem to them neces- sary for the govermnent of the borough, the free school, &c. Bewdley at present returns but one member to parliament ; the electors are the bailiff, 12 capital burgesses, and :uich of the minor burgesses as they elect." -TOPOGRAPHICAL DrSCRIPTIO^. 83 elect. This town was formerly built, like most of our other ancient towns, oftimbefj but most of the wooden structures have latterly given place to more secure and permanent habitations of brick. Its po- pulation, in the year 1773, amounted to 329 families, consisting of 943 males, and 9^9 females, making a total of 1932. The population amounts to 3,tJ7i, according to the last returns. Besides members of the established religion, there are several sectaries: as Presbyterians, Anabaptists, and Quakers, resident here ; each of these sects has a niecling-house for persons belonging to it. Formerly there were two weekly markets, and four annual fairs held here; the markets being on Wednesday and Saturday, and the lairs upon the feast of St. Agatha, the 5th of February ; upon the feast of St. George, 23rd of April ; upon the feast of St. Ann, 26th of July ; and upon St. Andrew's day, 30th of November. The market on Saturday, with the three last mentioned fairs were confirmed to the bailiff and burgesses by the charter of James L But the fair upon the 5th of February, and the market upon ^^'ednesday have been long disused. Not far from Bewdley is P>lucks'ione Hill, where there is an hermitage curiously cut out of a rock, and consisting of several apartments besides a cha- pel. Upon the edge of the river in its vicinity, is a picturesquely wooded rock, which is interesting to the botanist on account of the many rare plants it produces. In the parish of Rocli, not far from hence, is an oak conjectured by several to be the same with the famous Augustine's.. oak, whose true situation has been the source of so much contention among the learned, and is still undetermined. Cam- den says "there is a place whose situation is not exactly known in this county, called AugiL^f'me\ Oak, where Augustine the Apostle of the English, and the British bishops met, and after some squab- bling about the observance of Easter, the preaching 3 of S4 WORCESTERSHIRE. of the gospel, and administration of Baptism accor ding to the ritual of the Romish church, separated %vith as little agreement as before." Spelman ima- gines the vicinity of Aufric, a village on the con- fines of liertfordshire, to iiave been the site of this tree ; but it is no less remote from our inclination, than it is from our province to enter into the lists of controversy, Tickenhill is now vested in the crown, and leased, with the manor of Bewdley to Sir Edward Winning- ton, who has built a seat in the vicinity called Win- terdyne. Part of the antient forest of Wire, for- merly celebrated for the excellence and abundance of its timber, is situated near this; a gold coin of the Emperor Tiberius, v.as found, in a state of un- common preservation, in this forest about llie year 1770. The court for the marches of Winterdyne, was kept alternately here, and at Ludlow castle. Prince Henry's physicians being of opinion that the situation of Tickeniiill was healthier than that ©f Ludlow, in conse(juence of which, he ordered the iiouse to be repaired and fitted up for him; but he did not live to visit it. Crossing the Severn,, we digress a little to the left of the road to visit Wassel Hill, which is situated about half a mile from the banks of the river, and has upon its summit the remains of a small camp, about four or live miles to tiie east, of which on Kniver Edge, is another of greater extent, with which it appears to have been intended to torm a line of fortification, extending across this part of the county, as at about an equal distance to the east of Kniver Edge camp, is another upon Whitenbury hill. Gougfi conjectures these to have been the posts of Henry IV, when he blocked up Owen Glendour after the burning of Worcester in the > ear l405. 'I'hree miles east of Bewdley, upon the banks of the river Stour, over which there is a bridge, is the busy and populous town of Kidder- TOPOGRAPHICAL DKSCRIPTieN. 85 KIDDERMINSTER, Called in the Doomsday survey Chideminstre. It is situated at the distance of 124 miles from Lou- don, and carries on a very extensive and lucrative trade in the glass and iron manufactures. Former- jy the broad cloth manufactory here was in a flou- lisliing condition, but it latterly declined, and was succeded by the manufacture of ]insey-\voolse\s, poplins, crapes, bombazines, &c. vith which tlie i^ondon and other markets were well supplied. The Scotch and fiat carpet trade was introduced here about the year 1735, and shortly after the manu- facture of the cut car})ets, was aiso introduced. All these have been greatly improved, by the ingenui- ty and enjulaticn of the various manufacturers, in th€ variety and elegance of the patterns, as well as the permanency and brilliancy of the dyes. Ko country justice can exercise any judicial au- thority in this town, the government of which is re- gulated by a recorder, and two magistrates, called the baililf and justice's; the bailiff, who always be- longs to the quorum, is annually elected by the 12 aldermen, with tb.e concurrence of 25 common coun- cil men, wiio, collectively, are authorised by a char- ter, bearing date the 12th of Charles I. to make bye-laws for the government of the body corporate, and the trade of the town. Formerly this borough ■was represented in parliament. Ihe Staffordshire canal, which, in its progress to Stourport where it falls into the Severn, passes through Kidderminster, opens an inland navigation with Liverpool, Manchester, &c. which, including its windings, extends to upwards of five hundred miles. By several charters from Henry IT. Richard L Henry V'l. and Henr_> VIII. the inhabitants of this town are exempted from toll, pontage, and murage througliout the kingdom ; a coniirniatioji of these li privi- 86 WORCESTERSHIRE. privileges wns obtained by a charter from Queen Elizabeth. A court-leet for the manor is occasion- ally held here by a person deputed for that purpose by' the lord of the manor. A court of requests for the recovering of small debts is also held. The church is a large and venerable Gothic structure, with a lofty tower, and a good ring of eight bells. The vicarage, which is always united to the chapelry of Milion, is valued at 3001. per annum ; it is in the gift of the Foleys. The parish is properly called the Foreign, and its inhabitants are required to bear one half of the cxpences incurred by the church- wardens in the execution of their office. At the east end of tlie choir of the church is the Grammar School, to which all the inhabitants, both of the town and Foreign, are entitled to send such of their children as they are desirous of having classically educated, free of expence. The school is conduct- ed by a head and st-cond ma-;ter who are elected by certain feoffees, with the concurrence of the bishop of the diocese. The Town Hall is a respectable Iniilding, chieflv of brick, of whicha portion of the lower part is let to the neighbouring inhabitants, and the n-mainder employ- ed as a prison. The butcher's-stalls occupy the ground floor ; the council- room for transacting public busi- ness, and giving public entertainments, is situated over these; latterly however public entertainments have been given at the Red Lion inn, * The streets here are well paved and kept clean, and great regard is had to every thing which can contribute to the salubrity of the town. Here are three very respectable reading societies. There are eight charity schools for boys and girls, besides several sunday schools. I'here are 12 Almshouses, which, with the numerous other chc- rities, and not less than '25 friendly societies, ren- der the parish rates in this town very moderate : for tiie further relief of the necessitous, a Dispensary- has TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 8/ has been titabiished by the subscription of the 'Wealthy. The weeekly market for grain, ^c. is held upon Thursday, and the annual fairs, wlucli are for all sorts ui merchandise, are fo»ir in number, and held as IoiUavs ; upon the Monday in the week next be- fore Easter ; upon Ascension day ; upon the 20th of June, and 4th of September. The liver Stour which rises in the celebrated groves of bhenstone's classic Lcasowes, in the vici- nity of liaies Owen, enters Kidderminster upon the north, and alter making nearly two equal divisions of it, passeson to Milton, and thence to Stourmouth, a little below Stourport, where it mixes its waters with those of the Severn. The Staftordshire canal, al- ready noticed, entering the town at no great dis- tance from the Stour, crosses it within about 100 yards of the market place, at the foot of the emi- nence on winch the church is seated ; at this place there is a good wharf with commodious ware- houses. Exclusive of its numberless and extensive manu- factories, shops, and warehouses, Kidderminster contains upwards of 1,290 dwelling houses, extend- ing from north to south-east, nearly one mile, and in breadth about half a mile ; the population according to the last returns is 6,110. Kidderminster is three miles east of Bewdley, 12 south of Bridgenorth, 7 south-west of Stourbridge, 10 south-west of Dudley, 18 south-west of Birming- ham, 16 south-south west of Wolverhampton, 9 north-west of Bromesgrove, and 14 north of Worces- ter : between it and these towns there are excellent turnpike roads. The soil in the vicinity is in general light and sandy, better adapted to"^ the growth of barley and other grain than wheat, of which last, however, with the assistance of lime and good management, it ii> made to produce annually abundant crops. The H c' meadovv 88 WORCESTERSHIRE. meadow land is highly produclive, and perhaps little inferior to any in tlie island. Except to the south, where the blue hills of Mal- vern, at the distance of upwards of 20 miles, skirt tlie horizon, Kidderminster cannot boast of any tiling approaching to an extensive prospect; conlined bov/ever as the views are, they possess many beau- ties, and the country is agreeably diversified by gen- tle eminences. A pleasant v/alk a'ong the banks of the canal, or through the meadows bordering on the river, leads to a place called Round Hill, where there is a chalybeate spring, much resorted to by the inha- bitants of the town, from the centre of which it is but half a mile distant. Several other places in this vicinity furnish chalybeate springs, of which that of Sandburn is the strongest. Round Hill is the property of Matthew Jefferys, Esq. Seven miles north-east of Kidderminster, clo-e to the borders of the county, is the pleasant towu of STOURBRIDGE, Situated in the parish of Old Svvineford : this town takes its name from the river Stour upon which it is seated. A Chapel was erected here by subscrip- tion in the year 1742, and constituted, by an act of parliament, paa-ochial, and independent of Old Swineford. Besides this church belonging to the establishment, there are several meeting houses for various denominations of Protestant dissenters, 'i'he government of the town is vested in the hands of a bailiff, &c. The Free-school liere was founded by Edward VI. it is handsomely^ endowed, and has a good library, formed by the occasional contribu- tions of the governors, anil such gentlemen as are educated here : there are eigiit governors who are always choseii from among the gentlemen resident in the parisli. 1 lie Blue Coat Hospital at Old Swjne- ford TOrOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 99 ford was founded and endowed in tlie year 1667 by Thomas Foley, Lscj. of Witley Court, and is un- der the direction of 19 feoffees ; by this charity 60 poor boys are cloathed, instructed, and at the age of 14 years appr^Jnticed to different trades ; two suits of clothes and four pound apprentice-fee being given to them at that time. Glass, ir.Mi, cloth, and bricks, constitute the chief articles of manufacture here; of these the glass manufactu'e is the most considerable, producing to government duties to the amount of 20,0001. per annum. The number of glass-houses amounts to about 10, and the articles principally made are drinking glasses, bottles, and window glass. The clay found in the vicinity of Stourbridge is also an article of trade, large quantities being em- ployed in various parts of the united empire, in coat- ing the sides and bottoms of the pots at the several glass-houses. This clay is also exported in the form of hue stone pots and crucibles, which are ma- nufactDred here, and are held in high estimation. Coal and iron-stone are also abundant in this vici- nity. Stourbridge is 126 miles north-west of London^ 12 west of Birmingham, 10 east of Bridgenorth, 10 south of Wolverhampton, 10 north of Bromes- grove, and 22 north-north east of Worcester. It has a good weekly market upon Friday, and three fairs annually, upon the 29th of March for horses, on the 8th of September for horses and cattle, and upon the 8th of January. The number of liouse^; according to the last returns is 760, and the popula- tion 3,431. In the parish of liimley, adjoining to Stourbridge, tliere is a blade mill, at which scythes, reaping hooks, &c. are ground to a fine edge. About two miles south of Stourbridge, upon the left side of the road leading to Bromesgrove, is the magniticent and deservedly-admired park of H 3 HAGLEY, 90 W0RCt.STER5HIRE. "' IIAGLF.Y, Once the favourite retreat of tlie eminent Lord Lyttieton, and deriving an additional lustre and celebrity from the visits and the muse of Pope, as well as of the many other literary luminaries thatiii those days of classic sunshine shed a lasting lustre upon the country which possessed and the nation which could appreciate their worth. The Mansion House of Hagley is situate prospect from trie front wiiich overlooks the gai- dens is exquisitely beaiitiful. In the distance, seated, upon the brow of a gentle eminence which is par- tially concealed by the rich groves which intervene, a light and graceful colunm appears, out-topping the luxuriant foliage of the trees, and adding not a iittlo to the picturesque effect of the scene ; a little to the right, embosomed in wood, is the Cimrch, of whicii a casual glimpse may be caught at times. From hence we behold a spacious park, skirted here and there with wide oaks^ whose appearance sufiiclently bespeaks their antiq\iity, and beyond these appears the swelling v.ood which marks the boundary of the park, and over which the Cient hills, proudly rais- ing their bold summits to the skies, and breaking, as it were, the inuneasureable limits of the horizon, finish the picture. Directing our attention again to the column, from wJilci; TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. Ql which (Hir route commenced, we observe a descent sloping towards the left, with a beautiful grove winding through it. Beyond the top of the hill ano- ther lesser grove presciits itself, exliibiting a hand- some clump of Scotch lirs, after which the lawn, as- suming the tbrm of a beautiful sweeping vale, risei= by almost imperceptible degrees till it appears to reach the towt^ring hills of Whitchbury. Further to the left, deeply embosomed in iirs, is a Temple of Tiieseus, upon an eminence ; beyoiul which appears a noble obelisk, rising in front or a venerable grove of oaks, whose trunks mossed over with age ter- minate this delighful landscape. The parish Ciiurch, a small neat Gothic structure, secluded amidst encircling trees, next merits our at- tention ; the rinished interior bespeaks the execu- tion of a master. The wi.idows of the ,caancel are enriched with the most brilliantly- vivid siained glass, which, though of modern production, would have added to the reputation of the first among the an- cient cultivators of the art in Italy. The monu- ment erected by George Lord Lyttleton to the me- mory of his beloved and deeply-lamented wife Lucinda, immortalized by the monody of her hus- band, particularly merits attenticf]. Fron) t-lie ciiurch we may take the path leading to ttie (iarden, which is elegantly laid out"., here v/e meet a beautiful undedicated urn upon one side of an alcove, with a room behind it. Passing on, close to the garden pales, in a narrow walk, well shaded by over-hanging trees, we have a bold rising lawn, where the eye is attracted by an airy alcove, to the right of which is a stately obelisk, both of which, though without the precincts of the park, are with- in the domain. Pursuing the path which runs along the left side ^f the park, we arrive at Thomson's seat, an octangular temple, erected as well in tes- timony of Lord Lyttleton's veneration for the bard, as ill connnemor.i"tioa of Thomson's ment. From henctt 92 WO?.eESTERSHIRE. Iience the sloping I^wn grackially sinks into the bot- tom of a line grove, over the top of which, on a bold vising hill, peers a corresponciing grove, seated upon an eminence of such elevation that its trunks ap- pear above tiie summits of the trees beneath, through an opening of v»hicli Pope's building is seen to great advantage, '.vhile the irregular outline of the distant hills of Malvern terminate the prospect. Not far hence is the Vicarage, a neat Gothic build- ings uhich, though not included within the limits of the park appears to belong to it, and agreeably di- versifies the view. Still pursuing the winding path, we arrive at the Rotunda, an elegant structure, of eight Doric columns sustaining a haiidsome dome, and seated on the eminence of a tine sloping lawn. From a bench behind the dome, looking down the lawn, we are gratified with seeing some beautiful reservoirs of the mo?t pellucid water, deeply shaded with large trees, and thick-s^^t shrubs, the whole forming the most agreeable vista in nature, termi- nated by a delightful view af tiie Palladian bridge. Our walk continues to an opening, from whence we have a distant view of the t)ouse, which appears as if seated in a wilderness, and shews itself with additional lustre, while the snow-capped moun- tains of Cambria, piercing, as it were, the very hea- vens with their pointed summits, bound the pros- pect. Hence a steep ascent leads us to the Hermi- tage : this secluded cell, apparently formed of the rudest materials, blasted stumps, and unhe\\n trunks of trees, whose fissures, stopped up wiih earth and moss of various hues, give it every ap- pearance of being a work of nccirssity, such as one might expect Selkirk's hut to be in the island cf Juan Fernandez, In its furniture and fitting up tie interior corresponds most accurately with the plain simplicity of the external appearance; a wooden bench otters repose to the weary, who must not here expect the beds of down which the palace affords. TOrOGRAPKICAL DESCRIPTIO^T, ©3 affords. I'he light is admittf d only by the deor ; the floor is paved, and the moss-clad walls have no other relief from furniture than what is afforded by the humble bench which occupies the entire length of the apartment. Formerly there was an inner apartment, which contained a pallet and mat ; this however falling to decay was removed, and alir tree has been substituted in its place. From this build- ing the path descends, winding under the shade into the hollow, and taking a path which leads to the right aloni:; the skirts of the park, we reach a rough concave recess, with a semicircular seat, over which is rudely sculptured, on a mortar wall, the true adage Omnia Vanitas. Hence continuing our walk above the glen, we gradually mound in a winding direction, to a seat, behind which a gate lets us out of the park, upon one of the highest of the Clent hills. Keturning to the park, we are struck with a view of tlic Kuin, encompassed by venerable trees ; a nearer vievv increases instead of diminishing the ex- pectations of decayed magnificence, which its ap- pearance, while yet at a distance, raised. Here the destructive hand of Time seems to have ex- erted its utmost power. The mass3' stones tum- bled from its dilapidated walls, the totteruig, loose, over-burdened towers, and thick-rooted ivy, with which it is nearly covered, seem so many corrobo- rative testimonies of this ruin being extremely an- cient. C)ne of the towers being left entire, has a most happy effect, by allowing scope to the imagi- nation, to amuse itself with conjectures as to the splendour and hospitality which in former days vere the distinguishing characteristics of Baronial magnilicence. Within the tower, a winding stair- case conducts to the top, which presents a prospect unec] nailed in grandeur, extent, and variety. The Grotto next merits our observation. On this delightful y4 WURCESTFRSniRE. delightful retirenier.t, the noble designer appears to liave lavished every decoration which taste could ijestow, to heighten its natural b' auties.— The ground-work is indeed Nature's, but :ae taste- ful superstructure which Art has raised, gives life ai\d animation to the scene. Quitting the grotto, we proceed across the lawn to the column which supports an elegant statue of Frederick, the late Prince of Wales, and father to his present Majesty ; hence the path leads back again to tiie alcove, and thence to tiie house. But we liave already trespassed too far upon our limits to be able to attempt a description of the num- berless paintings and embellishments of this delight- iul mansion, and must reluctantly bring our account to a conclusion. A pleasant ride of about four miles brings us to the neat town of Hales Owes, situated in the north-eastern extremity of a circular insulated por- tion of Sliropshire. About one mile north of Hales Owen, we re-enter Worcestershire, which we soon after quit for Staiford, a narrow stripe of which in- tervenes between the county of Worcester and a small isolated tract annexed to it, upon the north boundary of which is situated the market-town of DUDLEY, Where a considerable manufacture of nails and other iron wares is carried on. It is \^0 miles north- west of London, 10 west of Birmingham, i4 east of Bewdley, 28 north-east of Worcester, and 18 north of Bromesgrove. The Castle is situated in Stafford- shire ; previous to the Conquest it and the town belonged to Edwin of Mercia. This castle was, during the civil wars, in the possession of the King's forces, and being besieged by the Parliamentary army, was relieved in 1()42 by the royalists. For- iticrly Dudley was a borouiih town, and sent mem- ber- 'to parliament in the '2^d of Ldward I. 'i'here are TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOxM. .ing which the walk winds en till it in- troduces us to the opening of a long and beautiful vista. Here a seat placed upon a small eminence presents us with an opening through the woods, ex- hibiting a richly divtrsihed prospect over a wellr planted glade of the distaut country. Directing TOPOG-RAPHrCAL DESCRIPTION, 99 Directing our steps lieiice, we arrive at a simple and rusiic Duildmg, called the rtmple of F*an ; at a little dibtance from which is a wicket, which admits us to a grove consecrated to the Jviuse ot Virgil, where opens a sceue " bweet as the rural strains himself had sung," Further on, opposite to a dashing fall of water, is a romantic seat, inscnbed to tlie memory of that ad- mirable painter of the Seasons, the poet ^iliomson. From this sweet spot every object which presents itself combines its lorce to delight the eye, and be- wilder the imagination.. On our left is the distant prospect of the foaming cascade, which fails in slieets seemingly of liquid silver, over the craggy rocks, till gaining the bottom it once more pursues its course in a smoothly-flowing stream, and meeting with an interruption divides into two smaller streams, form- ing a beautiful liiiUi island. Uni'dng again, and con- tinuing a devious course, the smiling current, once more interrupted, precipitates itself down a rugged steep, and conceals itsvlf under the arch of a bridge of the simplest construction. To the right, on the oppo^ite side, we are no less pleased witn a dropping, iountain, creeping through the mossy veins of a wild stoiiy moss, and stealing dowii the shelving wands into the opaque glens, charniingiy interwoven with stately trees and brush- ing underwood. \Ve now return nearly to Virgil's Obelisk, and descending thence across a wooden bijdge, and pro- ceed alung a path which winds to the left, through 1 romantic coombe directly up to the cascade, which, bursting at once upon the view, suddenly engrosses our whole attention. A small stream, sa- turated with mineral particles, takes its course a lit- tle to the left of tlie watertall. On the right, a path branches off through a wicket to the lawn wnich surrounds the h.ouse ; at present, however, this path is appropriated solely to the use of the family. I :! Descending 100 WORCESTERSHIRE. Descending by the cascade, we follow the path which winds along the left bank of the stream, and notwithstanding our hating already feasted upon most of the scenes which it furnishes, we are still enraptured with the new points of view in which they are occasionally presented, and further en- chanted with a number of perfectly novel and ro- mantic landscapes, which almost every step opens to our view: the rapid rivulet varies its course, and strays with artless beauty through the flowing dell, frequently concealed from our view by the inter- vening branches of the overshadowing trees ; we now discover the termination of our ramble. Ile-entering the domain of the Leasowes by the same gate as that by which we were at iirst admittedj we may add a little to our perambulation by taking a path which we neglected before, and which wind- ing through some luxuriant meadows, brings us to the summit of a fine swell, commanding an agreeable prospect of the J)ouse, the front of which directly 'faces us. In the construction of this building, which is the work of the present proprietor, every regard has been had to elegance of effect ; the simplicity of the design harmonizing admirably with the sur- rounding scenery, while the interior is fitted up with all the magnificence which is worthy of the lord of so noble an estate. The. congeniality of the taste of Mr. Shenstone's successor w ilh that of the first improver of these ro- mantic grounds, has been singularly fortunate, as to it many of the improvements of the poet are indebted for their completion, and those which he finished liave received in many instances no small degree of heightening from the judicious alterations of the pos- sessor. Shenstone's remains are entombed within the church-yard at Hales Owen, and an urn has been erected to his memory within the church. His woiKs will, however, more effectually secure his fame. topooraphical description. 101 fime, and his memory can never fail of being dear to all the admirers of Nature. Two miles hence we reach the boundary of the county, whence to Birmingham is a distance of five miles. Journey frorn Bin7iingh(i777 to Tercke^buri/ ; th^ougk Bi'07/7CSi:rov€, D7odwich,Worcester, Kt/t/psey, andSc- ver7i Stoke. About three miles from Birmingham we reach the boundary of the county, wliich is here formed by the Bourne Brook, and crossing Bourne Bridge we enter the county of Worcester, and soon after cross the Stratford-on-Avon canal at a little village called Selly Oak, and at the distance of about four mile3 and a half further we arrive at the foot of a long and disagreeable hill, called the Lickey, surmount- ing V hich, and what is caUed the Bromesgrove Lickey, we reach the ancient and respectable market town of BROMESGROVE, Which consists principally of a single street of nearly a mile in length. This town is situated ex- actly midway between Birmingham and Worcester, being 13 miles distant from each. I'he river Sal- warp rises in its vicinity. It is 114 miles from Lon- don ; in the reign of Edward L it returned two members to parliament, but this franchise is not at present granted. Tiie Graiumar School was founded by l-'dward VI. and its endowmeKt enlarged by Sir 'Ihomas Cooks. The Church is a noble ancient building, situated upon tiie summit of a hill, whicii you climb by 50 steps. The tower and spire have been mucli 'admired, their elevation is 189 feet; in the church are some curious painted windows. The inhabitants carry on extensive dealings in worsted, of wliich there is a manufactory here, also in the manufacture of linen cloths, fish hooks, needles, nails, and linseys. Formerly there wer« i 3 manufactories 102 WORCESTERSHIRE. manufactories of cotton, and broad and narrow su- perfine cloths, but these have been discontinued for many years. The rivulets in the vicinity furnish trout, eels, and lamperns of the best quality and iu the greatest })rofusion. This town and manor formerly consti- tuted part <.)f the estates of John Scot, Earl of Ches- ter, Huntingdon, &c. I'pon his death Henry III. took possession of it, giving an equivalent to his three co-heiresses. Tlie parish of Bromesgrove contains 12 manors ; a court baron for the recovery of small debts is held every three weeks in the tovrn-hail, by the ]ord of the manor, or his deputy. There is a fine chalybeate at Barnet Gieen in this parish, but its virtues are little known, and less appreciated, except by tlie poor in its vicinity. In tlie neighbourhood of Hollywood, is a singular petrifying spring. The weekly market is held here upon ^fuesday, and two annual fairs, upon the 24th of June, and the 1st of October. The population of this parish, according to the last returns, amounts to 5,89S. Lady Moyston has an agreeable seat in this vi- cinity. About a mile from Bromesgrove, upon the right, is Grafton Hall, the seat of the Earl of Shrewsbury. The old mansion was destroyed, u'ith the exception of the doorway and hall, in the year 1710, by fire; the new house is well adapted for the residence of an ancient and honourable family. About six miles from Bromesgrove, we reach the thriving and populous town of DROITWICn, Situated upon the banks of the little river Sal- warp, at the distance of 95 miles from London, seven from Worcester, 19 froni Birmingham, 10 from Kidderminster, and 12 from Alcester. It is a corporate biiiliwicK, .?uU returns two members io parliament. TOPOGRAPHICAL DnSCRIPTlON. 103 parliament. The government is vested in the hands of the recorder, town-clerk, &c. the right of elec- tion belongs to the two bailil't's, the recorder, ar.d. 11 burgesses, who are entitled the Corporation of tiie Salt Springs of Droitvvich. The salt works are the chief support of this town, employing a very large number of the poor inhabitants. The antiquity of this manufacture is very great : its existence has^ been ascertained to be prior to th(? Norman Con- quest. The Domesday Survey records that the salt works here paid every week durmg the season of weating, a tax of l6 bullians; at this time live salt springs were worked. The earliest mention of these works prior to the Conquest is in tlie reign of Athclstan. The brine pits here are surprisingly productive, and almost inexhaustible, constantly overflowing from the greatness of the springs which rill them j the brine is generally believed to be stronger than that of any other springs ever met with, holding in solution one fourth part of salt, while the strongest in any other part of England contains only one ninth^ and indeed we do not believe that any wells iiave been yet discovered which contain so large a propor- tion asone tilth of salt. In Germany, wheresaltis very scarce, they are in the habit of evaporating brine holdinglittle more than three 40th'3 of salt in solution. Besides the salt appropriated to culinary purposes, and which is properly termed the Muriate of Soda (Natron Muriatum of the Lond. Nomenclature)^ it may not be amiss to remark that all natural salt waters likewise hold a number of other saline sub- stances in solution, all of which are, in the language of chemistry, known by the name of Salts: of this kind are ti»e Sulphate of Soda (Glauber's Purging Salts, Natriim Vltriolatuni), Sulphate of IMagUv'siai (Kpsom, or Bitter Purging Salts, Magnesia iKitrio^ iutn), Muriate of Lime, &zc. &c. it is the last of Iheije; which we have enumerated, tl-at mix«:s with :: ' tlie 104 WORCESTERSHIRE. the culinarv salt when carelessly prepared, and oc'' casions that deliquescence of which housekeepers so often complain. The pure Muriate of Soda rather efHoresces than deliquesces, which latter never hap- pens, unless when it is adulterated with some earthy muriate. To purify the salt from these foreign ad- mixtures is the business of the manufacturer, and is accomplished by repeated solutions and crystalliza- tions. In 1773, as Dr. TSash informs ns, Joseph Priddj <^f Droitwich had sunk several pits, and generally foui.d that the talc was at the depth of about 150 feet below the surface ; the thickness of this stratum of talc was 130 feet, beneath which a salt stream, of 22 inches in depth, was found niiming over a hard rock of salt. When the perforation was completed through the talc, the brine rushed out with incon- ceiveable rapidity. The same person sunk another pit in the follow- ing year, when he found the stratum superincum- bent upon the talc to be 53 feet thick ; the layer of talc i02 feet, and beneath it a river o\ brine of the same depth as before, and also runsiing over a rock of salt, into which he bored to the depth of two feet and a half, but found the rock perfectly homogeneous. The produce of the ])its here, during the period of nine months, conmiencing upon the 11 th of No- Tcn^ber, 176!), and ending on the 4th of August, 1770, amounted to 480,340 bu-hels ; for 371,078 busiiels of which tiie proprietors paid duty, the re- maining I OP, 25- buslieis having been sold on bond. 'J'he quantity of salt mai^ufactured here and sold between theVitli of April, 1771, and the 5th of April, 1772, amounted to 604,570 bushels ; 1 10,120 bushels of which were exported to the continent. The duty j)aid to the Salt Otrice in London, amounted to the sum of 61,4571. being nearly equal to one third of the salt duty collected throughout all the rest of the island TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. lO.'J island in that year. In the year immediately ensu- ing the duty encreased to 7l',lti0l. '^s. 1 id. '^rhe antiquity ot Droitwich is extreme: under the Saxon monarchs it gave naine to the whole county. Ill the reign of William it was still populous ; an ac- cidental lire in IX'UO reduced St, Andrew's Church, and much of the town, to aslies ; it soon however recovered fronithis misiortune^ and obtained a num- ber of privileges and immunities from many of our kings, especially John and Henry III. T."he bailiff is a justice of quorum, and a justice of the peace dur- ing the year succeeding to the termination of his; oftice : the recorder is also a justice. There is an hospital here, which was founded in the year 1688. The number of houses is 139, and the population, which consists chiefiy of poor persons, amounts to about 1,840. The weekly market is held upon Friday, and the annual fairs, upon the 13th. of April, l6th of June, 22d and 24th of September, and 21st of December. The Market House was built in 1628. A canal, communicating with the Severn, at a place called Hawford, within three miles of Wor- cester, opens a useful channel for the trade of this town ; by it is the greatest part of the salt manu- factured here, is conveyed to tiie Severn, and from thence dispersed, by the various canals which com- municate with that river, to diiierent parts of the kingdom : by means of it, also, the town is supplied with coal, chiefly from the vicinity of Dudley, at a reasor.able rate; Vnc canal is of suffi- cient depth for vessels of 60 and 63 tons, its lengtli is about seven miles, and the expence of its con- struction was about 23,0001. Upon the road leading from Droitwich to Om- bersley, is the venerable mansion of WTstwood Housii, agreeably situated in an extensive and beautiful park, exhibiting a line specimen of the an- cient architecture, having undergone no material al- terations 1G6 WOPCFSTERSHIRL. terations or additions since the period of ifs m'.-t foundation in the reign of Qticrn Rliiabeth. It consists of a square buiklin;;, witii projecting wings, of a parallelogrammic form at each angle ; it is turreted after the phia of the Chaieau de MAD: deserving of notice, as liaving afforded a secure ss;ium to Dr. Hanu.iond, Bishops Morley, Fell, GuMumg, and man\ others during the various troubles which distracted tiie kingdom. The apartments at Westwooci Hotise possess the same antique grandeur as its extenor does ; thev are de- corated with some valuable paintings, chiel^y family portraits. A little to the south of Westwood Park, upon the banks of a little river of the same name, is the vil- lage ofSALWAUF, neatly built, and pleasantly situ- ated between the river Salwaip and the Droitwich canal. The Church is a small but mat structure, and contains a few monuments; upon an eminence not very remote from the village is FIigh Park,. the seat of Philip Gresley, Esq. an elegant modern cdihce, commanding a beautiful pio^^peet, and pre- senting a handsome appeiirance. A little to the left ot the road leading from Droitwich to ^Vorcester is liiM U', an ancient man- sion situated upon a rising ground. It was erected about the year ]:>7J, by John flabingdon, Queen Elizabeth's cofferer. Its original construction was siiiguiaiv TOT OGRAPHICAI, DhSCRlfTlON. 107 •siKg'^^lur, and strikingly illuslrative of the insecurity >oftlK* period al which it was built, being hill of se- , cret passages and retreats, caleuialed lor tiic conceal- ment of the family and property in cases of sur- prize. The ingenuity displayed in the contrivance of these is sur|)risijig, the access to some being through the cniraaies, while others communicated, by means oftrap-doors, with the back staircases, and presented exteriiaUy tlie appearance of chim.nies. 'J'he house is however greatly altered, and is at pre- sent occupied as a boarding-school tor young laaies. Among the paintings wuicli may be seen liere is a curious portrait of Uiefoundej Joiin Habingdon, with the inscription: Acad£x va cm tkijI'O Ai-To sale, uuon one side. Not far from Ilinlip, and situated between it and Worcester, is Ruse Place, the agreeable scat .of Thomas Williams, Esq. commanding many beauti- ful prospects. ill the same neighbourhood is Perdiswell, the elegant seat of John \\'akeman, Esq. agreeabl} situ- ated at a convenient distance from the turnpike-road, aii.d surrounded with many luxuriant plantations; tiie house is a modern building of hecrstone, and exhi- bits a handsome appearance from the road. Upon either side of tht- entrance to the avenue, is a car- ved iigure, that upon the right being designed to represent Plenty, the other Commerce. The seat called the Blankets, in this neighbouriiood, took its name from an old possessor of the name of Agnes Blanket; it is a strong commodious building of brick, llence the road leads us oijce more to tlie city of Worci'Ster, already noticed : leaving which, by the great road to Bristol, we reach, at the distance of three miles the village of Ivempsky, which is pleasant- ly situated at an easy distance from the Severn ; it is in general neatly built, and from being so great a thoroughfare is gradually increasing in wealth : .among the gentlemen's houses those o Gen. EUis^ 3n4 108 WORCESTERSHIRE. and J, Baker, Esq. chiefly merited and obtained our attention. Long before the Coi'quest, the bishops of Wor- cester iiad a palace here, remarkable for its elegance and magnificence. When the unfortunate issue of the battle of Lewes in Sussex, left Henry III. a cap- live in the hands of the barons, this palace was chosen as the place of his imprisonment ; so completely, however, has it been demoU^hed that scarcely a ves- lage remains to fix its site. The Church here is a nea,t edifice, built in the form of a cross; it has no pretensions to antiquity, and contains but few monuments of any interest. Prior to the Dissolution there was a college of secu- lar priests, which falling to the crown upon the Sup- pression it was given in exciiange to the dean and chapter of Worcester. Not far hence are some traces of a camp or fortification, erroneously as- cribed by some to the Romans ; its importance may be inferred from the strength which is yet evident in its ruins : the period of the Danish and Saxon con- tests was most probably the aera of its foundation. About a mile hence, upon the right of the road, is a little hamlet, called Clifton, and about two miles further is the village of Severn Stokt, pleasantly situated along the road: here is the seat of the Rev. T. Evans, D. D. archdeacon of Worcester, who oc- casionally resides here. In the Church is a monu- ment, erected by the illustrious Lord Somers, baron of Evesham., to the memory of his parents. Two miles hence is the village of Eakl's Crome, a little beyond which are two branches from the road : that "to the right leading across the Severn, to Upton, distant about one mile ; that to the left lead- ing to Pershorc, distant about seven miles. E'^pon the right of this last road is Crome Park, the ele- fj;ant seat of the Eirl of Coventry. From having formerly been the property of Urfo d' x^bitot this place was long known by Uic namt of Cromb or Cioine TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. Jj inspection, and exhibit an adniirabie specinjen of farming, well deseiviug the iinitaiion of most of the agriculturi:,t3 of the king- dom. The public spirit of the noble earl has not ex- hausted Itself upon mere agricultural improvement; he has taken an interest in every thing which could contribute to the prosperity. of the country, and it was a common observation of the late Judge Perrot, that Lord Coventry had brought a 7n.il/10n of money into Worcestershire, by his skilful exertions in ma- king roaids through the county. Returning to the Tewkesbury road, we pass through the Httle hamlet of Naunton, and al the distance of one miie and a half further reach Stratford, a 3it- tle to the left of which, at some distance from the road, is the little village of Stk^nham, famous for having given birth to Butler, the illustrious but un- fortunate author of the celebrated mock-heroic poemi of Hudibras. . At Stratford we enter the county of Gicuce^ter ; hence, through the village of Twinning, to Tewkes- bury is a distance of about five miles and a half, through an agreeable country. Immediately before •yve enter this ancient and respectable town, we cross the classic v/ater? of the Avon> wliich at this place pours its tributary waters into the bosom of the ma- jestic Severn. Tewkesbury has been long famous for its stocking manufactory : our description of it will be found in our account of the County of Glou- cester. J lurneif from XVorcester to Upton ; through Great and Little M'lhern : continued back again to Worcester, through Hanlcy and Fotvick. Crossing the Severn, we quit Worcester, and, gt the distance of about tw3 miles, reach the agreeable, viliugr of Pov;jv-:u, memorable as having given birth K. 2 tv/ Ii2 . WORCF.STEEShlRK. to the illustrious Dr. Wall, who possf* .>sed a great versatility of talent, exceliing not only iii the profes- sional sciences of I'horagiuclics and Gheniisiry, but cultivating ti^e elegant accomplishment of painting vvitli no small success. From its agreing at their base ; the woodland scenery ■vvhich interveru^s is also extremely beautiful. Th.e park is judiciously laid out, and is agreeably diversi- tied by pieces t)f artificial water. Madderstit^Ul wa> once the residence of tlie ancient family of the Eracys.. William iiracy wasrcturn<'d as TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. U^. . as an esquire into the Exchequer, during the re gri ot" Henry IV. and required to attL-nd the king's pei- son with horse and arms into France. In the year 1.4'Jl, Joane iiracv, heiress of this family, married 'i homas Lygon, one of a family that came oyer with "SYilham trom Normandy; by this marriage t,he name of Bracy was lost, 'and ihat of Lygon suc- ceeded : the present possessor is the Honourable. "William Beaucliamp Lygon, member for the county of Worcester. Aliout two miles from Newland Green, seated at. the foot of the long range of hills which take their nanie from it, is the village of Greai. Malvern.; The Malvi;rn Hills, which rise immediately west of this village, and stretch for a considerible length along the borders of Herefordshire, in a direction nearly north and south, possess an elevation at their highest point of about 1313 feCt above the surface 5f the Sevi-rn at Hanley ; from their situation, however, in a couniiy little diversified with hills, their height appears to a stranger much greater than it really is. These hills possess the advantaize of a most salubri- ous air, and furnish ihniimerrxble picturesque and ro- mantic scenes ; their prir.cipal celeibrity fi'rises, hb'^- ever, fr©m their wcHs, vrhiclr have their source on the eastern side, at some distance from the village of Great Malvern, The water obtained from these wells is remarkable for its purity, the solid contents of two quarts being little more than three grains, of which one is oxyde of iron, aiiotlier mnriate of iune, and the third a small portion of alumina ; from the simplicity of its Composition, and the great unproba- hrjlity of the ferruginous contents, when in so very minute a portiony producing any etfect upon the con- stitution, we are inclined to attribute the surprising cures ascribed to the medicinal virtue of the waters, more to the salubrity of the air, the greater regulari- ty of living, the hilarity of the scene, and the more taan customary exercise in ..hich the invalids i.i- 2^ 3 dulgvjf 114' woKCESTEr.sirrr.E, dulge tliemsclvesy than to the prollcraalical tfft ct of the waters, taken in the small and divicit'd portions usually prescribed. Exercise and temperance are, indeed, in most cases, the be^t and cheapest physi- cians. I'he water of these wells is very Innpid. Those who delight in conteniplatinj* the njsud and romantic scenery of nature, will iind at Maiviru abundant gratification ; the rambles over these de- lightful hills are at once grateful to the eye, and ]iealthful to file body. Dr. Biooker, the author of the poem of MalveVn, was an er.lhusiaslic admiier of this romantic plate, and in one [Kirt ot it breaks out into the following extatic address : " Oh ! ever could I wander oVr those iawns, Beside tl)y stream, thou purest spiing that llows; Climb each bold eminence, and daily tind, Some object nc« tor wonder; the deep iilade? Traver^e, imbower'd by intertwiain^^ trees; Drink at the rill that murmurs at my reet And think it luxury; for everi^aze On the wild scene around uje, where conspire Kature's all generous oifspring to eMalt And warni the fcoul.'' Dr. Nash, in his excellent description of the coun- ty of Worcester, says : " Jt is beyond the power of an antiquary to describe the beautiful prospects from this hill (iXialvern). If a distant view delights, here you may see the counties of Monrnoutii^ Hereford, iladnor, Brecknock, Salop, Worcester, Gloucester, Stafford, Warwick, &:c. and the three cathedrals of Worcester, Gloncrstcr, and Jlereford, together with many market towns. If you are pleased with a nearer view, the pear-trees of Worcestersirlre, when in blossom, furnish such a scene as the world besides cannot equal. On the western side the apple trees in "Ilerefordsliire, with their purple hue make an agree- able diversity; add to this the varied ground, the l-PHutiful liltll' hills, and rich \Vood5, which ii»prove 2 the TOFOGRAPHICAL DESCKir I ION. 115 the Herefordshire prospect. If to the beauty *^f -thv* situation, we add tlie salubrity and purenesa ot tiie air, we may venture to r(?port, that, at least, f, situated in a romantic reccss of the liilU. Here, m the year 1 171, Jucel'ne and Edred, two broti:ers, founded a Benedictine Priory, of which they were successively priors ; this priory was augmented by Bishop Biois, and made a cell to Worcester. At the Dissolution its revenues were estimated at 9^1. 10s. 9d. per annum, it is DOW mostly in ruins; only part of the nave remaining, and on its windows considerable fragments of paint- ings, and several ancitnt monuments. Upon the summit of the hill above Little Malvern is a canjp, treble-ditched, wliich some foolishly con- jecture to have been Roman, because of the pra'to- rium or centre part, and the name of the parish in Vv-Jiich it is situaledj Colwull, which they say is de- rived from Colth vuiluin. But this supposition is overthrown by its shape ; it is certainly prior to the trend) before-mentioned, tor part of which its outward trench serves. Withm a short distance of this camp a coronet, or bracelet of gold, set with precious stones, was found by a cottager of the name of Thomas Taylor, as he was digging round iiis habitation ; ignorant of its real value, he sold it for the trifling sum ot 371. to a goldsmith in Gloucester of the name of Hill, by whom it was afterwards sold for 2501. to the London jewellers, who made 3001. of the jewels alone. This belonged, in all likelihood, to some un- fortunate British, or Anglo-Saxon prince, to whom the camp we have just noticed belonged. Along the brow of the Malvern hills may still be traced the enormous retnains of the stupendous fosse, constructed originally by Gilbert de Clare to divide his possessions from tliose of the church of AVorcester. Leaving Little Malvern, we arrive, after a short ride of about s'X miles, at the nu^rket-town of TOPOGnAPKIC/vL DESCRIPTION. 1 L7 UP TON-UPON-SEVERN, U'iiich gives uaiTK? to one of the hundreds of the county ; at this place a harbour has been con- structed tor barges. The Church is a neat edifice, vvith a square tower at its western extremity ; it was built in tjie year 17:j8, there is a clock,, and also a good ring of bells in the tower. There is a Charity bchool tor 1 6 girls. A stone bridge of 16 arches cros>.es the Severn here. The weekly market is held upon Thursday, and the annual fairs upon the first 'I'tiursday after Mid-lent, the Thursday in Whit- sun- Week, the Thursday before St. Matthew's-day, and the second of September. The population of Lpton amounts to upwards of 1800. Upton pave birth to the learned but eccentric John Dee, who was remarkftble f©r his vanity, cre- dulity, and enthusiasm, being alternately a dupe and a cheat. Mr. Walpoie got possession, on his death, of tlie black stone brought to him, as he pre- tended, by the angels. He died in extreme po- verty at M'orl lake, in the year 1^08, having attained the advanced age of H7. In the parish of Upton is situated Blackmorf, Park, the handsome seat of J. Hornycld, Esq. The house is a neat modern structure, with a fine soutli- ern aspect, and contains some good paintings, chiefly family portraits. The prospect is agreeable and ex- tensive, comm:znding a good view of the Malvern hills to the west, and the Coteswold hills, vvith the rocks in th^ vicinity of Cheltenhaiu, and a great extent of rich champaigne country intervening to the sou:h and south-east. Nearer to the Severn is tiie Rhyd, an agreeable ■seat belonging to Anthony Lechmere, Esq. At this place the banks of the river rise to a considerable iieight. There is a noble wood to the south of th« Ijouse. stretching along the cliffs wiiich overhang the liver, and commanding numbeiicss rich and exten- sive lis WORCESTERSHIRE , , sive views, the towers and spires of the city of Worcester appearing in the distance to the north, form a pleasing termination to the prospect ; much remains tor the hand of art to contribute to the em- bellishment of this spot. Severn End, the venerable mansion of Edmund Lechmere, Esq. should from its geographical position have obtamed a priority of notice, butttie deviation is so trifling that we cannot apprehend pur readers withiioldmg their indulgence for so venial an error. I'he family to whom this ancient seat belongs, came originally from the Netherlands, and the head of it served under William the Conqueror, in return for which he was rewarded with a grant of lands in Hanley, which from this circumstance obtained the name of Lechmere^s Place, and Lcchmere's Field. In the year 1721, Nicholas Lechmere was raised to the dignity of baron of Evesham : he bore the cha- racter of being a good lawyer, and a quick and dis- tinguished orator ; he was much courted by the Whigs ; and his temper was hot and violent. His impetuosity leading him once to speak in the house immediately upon taking the oaths, one of the members facetiously objected to him, on the plea of his not being a silting member, he not having taken his seat in the house between the time of 1ms taking the oatjis, and addressing the chair. At a house in this parish, known by the name 6f Bonner's Place, we are inforuied by Lord Lech- mere, that the celebrated bishop of the same name was born, his parents being honest but poor ; iiis lordsliip further adds that his grandfather was inti- mately acquainted with oisliop Bonner, from whom he received many favours, in return for kindnesses shewn by the Lechmeres to him in iiis child- hood. In this neighbourhood also, upon the opposite side of the road, not far from Ilanley Green, wa^ Haslf.y Castle, of which Leland makes the fol- lovvin;' TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 119 lowing mention. ** Hamley is from Upton a mile in dextra ripa Sabringe, a mile above Upton and a flint shotte from Severn. It is an uplandiscli towne, the castelle standitli in a parke at the west end of iliG towne. Sir John Savage, and his father and grauntfather lay much about Hamley and Theokes- buri, as keepers of Hamley. The arles of Glouster were owners of this castelle and lay mych there. Mr. Cometcn clene defaced it in his time, being keeper of it after Savage." Hanley Castle stood at no great distance fron> the Severn, and was formerly the residence of the Dukes of Warwick, and afterwards of Lord De Spencer. It was a large quadrangular stiucture, with a tower at each angle, the keep was situated in the north-west angle, and a deep moat surround- ed the whole ; at present, however, not the smalr lest vestige pf this strong and extensive fortification remains. The manor of Hanley wa? granted in the reign of Kiizabeth to the family of the Hornyolds, who are niatiimonially allltd to the Lygons, Kussells, and most of the other great families in the neighbourhood; by the ftmule line they are descended from the But- lers, a branch of the Duke of Ormond's family. During the civil wars in the time of Cliasles I. the Hornyolds suffered seveiely: Thomas Jiorp- yold raised a troop of horse at his own expence, and joined the king's forces under the command of the £arl of Cleveland. When the fortune of war de- cided in favour of the parliamentary armies. Cap- tain Hornyold was reduced to the necessity of iU- \nQ from tlie kingdom, the Parliament having de- clared him guilty of treason, and directed the se- q;.iestration of his estates ; in con-equence of which a large (juantity of timber was cut down and sold to reimburse the losses of an alderman of A^'orces- ter of the name of EUvins, who was an adherent of t!.t; republican party. The manor of Hauley cori- : ~'0 y/or.CESTEP.SHIRE. jues, however, in the possession of the Horny old Icimily. In the year 17S7, a ciicular cavity was disco- vered by a shepiierd's boy in a corn lield in the parish of Upton ; upon examination it was found to ise the entrance to a cavern of considerable dimen- 'cions, sunk about ten feet below the surface, and extending in every direction about 20 feet. At about 30 or 40 feet is a body of water, of the esti- i^rated depth of about l40 feet. Various conjectures origujated from this discovery, some attributing these excavations to a convulsion of nature, others to the hand of art ; their origin cannot, however, be a matter of much importance to us, we shall there- tore wave all further discussion of so barren a sub- ject. About one mile and three quarters beyond Han- ley Green, on the left of the road, is Dkipsill, the agreeable seat of Sir Charles I'rubshaw Withers ; it is pleasantly situated under the brow of a richly- wooded hill, anU exhibits a handsome appearance from the road. The house is an elegant structure, and we cannot but regret that the circumstance of the family being at home, joined to our inability to procure an introduction, precludes the possibility of our giving an account of the interior of the iiouse, or the disposition of the grounds. We must not, however, repine at the exclusion of visitors who come unrecommended by any introduction, as their promiscuous admission would be a most disagreea^ ble incroachment upon the domestic privacy of the family, and would besides expose the improvements to the wanton depredations of the many idlers who would embrace the favourable opportunity of amus- ijig themselves at the cost of the proprietor. Three miles and a half hence, we reach the pleas- ing village of Callow End CjREen ; in the vicinity of which is Bkauch/vmp's Court, formerly designed ai a residence for the noble family of that name. Th'j TOrOfSKAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 121 The plan, however, was nc-ver completed, and the wing, which alone was tinislied, is at present occupied as a farm-house. One mile and a half further re- enter Powick ; a quarter of a mile beyond wliich we cross, by a stone bridge, the river Teme, near its con- fluence with the Severn. Hence to Worcester is a distance of about one mile and three quarters, which terminates this journey. Journey from Kidderminster to Worcester ; throngh Stdurport, and Omberdeij. Four miles from Kidderminster we reach the small but thriving town of Stourport, seated at the junction of the Staffordshire canal with the Se- vern. This town ])resents a striking instance of the rapid benefits arising from industrious commerce : previous to the completion of this great national ^ork, w^hich opens a communication by water be- tween the Severn and the Mersey, as well as the many ramifying canals which variously intersect the country and facilitate the conveyance of merchan- dize, the site of this town was almost totally a bar- ren, sandy, and unprofitable heath, on wliich a few scattered cottages exhibited a picture of desolation, and too plainly bespoke the miserable poverty of their tenants. Since the opening of the canal, how- ever, these hovels, for they were indeed but little better, have vanished as it were by magic, and a neatly built bustling mercantile town has succeeded them. With the fresli accessions of wealth, it receives an addition of comfortable and even elegant houses, and its wharfs, bason, and commerce, present a live- ly representation of a little sea-port. By means of ihe canal from hence aa easy com- munication is opened with most of the principal towns in the north ; by this channel the porce- lain manufactured at Worcester is conveyed for ex- portation to Liverpool, Hull, &c. and coals are L'lauglit back in return from the pits m Stafford- I^ shire. 122 V/ORCESTERSHIRr. shire, &c. The bason at Stourport was opened in the year 1771, the sum of 10j,U001. having bcea expended in lis construction. Upon the opposite side of the river, at a short dis- tance i'rom Stourpcrt, i^^tiie fine old seat of the Mutch- tors, which passed Ijy marriage, in the year 1706, to" the family oi the Zacharys ; a handsome modern house has been lately built near it, the design of wiiich is elegant, but its situation is too low and confined, /Contiguous to this is the neat village of Arley, \yhose handsome church, situated upon an emi- nence, and having the rectory adjoining it, presents a picturesque appearance. A little further south are the pleasaiit seats of Dun' ley Hall, and AsTTLY, the residence of M. Harper, Esquire.— Contiguous to these is tlie pleasant village ot Glass- ham pton^ commonly called Glasson, in which \y. M. iMoseley, Esq. has a noble mansion. Returning to Stourport, we digress a little to the left of our course to visit the venerable seat of the Bjsiiops of VVorcester at Hartlebury Castlp..-— " 'I'he Castle of Hertlcburjj,^' says the accurate Le- land, " beiongeth to the bisliop of Worcester, by the act of several bishops ther is a parke and deere, a Marren for coneys, and faire pools, but the soil about tlie castelle is barren." Hartlebury was given to the see of Worcester by Burhe(l,king of Mercia. About the year SJO, Bishop Canti'lupe commenced the foundation of the castle; and Bishop Gifford obtained permission in the reign of Henry III. to embattle it. Bishop Carpenter added the gate- house in the reign of Henry. lu 1646, having been taken by the Parliamentary forces, it was sold for the sum of 3,1331. to Thomas Westrow, by whom it was taken down ; but was soon after rebuilt with a^igmented splendour, and ranks at present among the most elegant episcoj)al j>alaces in the island: being deservedly admired for the exct-lUmce and regularity TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 123 regularity of its architecture, the magnificence of its apartments, and the grandeur of its tout en- semble. When, upon the restoration of the profligate Charles to the throne of his ancestors, the harrassed nation was indulged in the temporary repose of peace, the palace at Harllebury received vast improve* ments and additions from that truly worthy prelate Dr. Hough, whose unassuming virtut^s and enga- ging manners justly endeared him to the inhabitants of his diocese during a space of nearly 44 years, in uhich he possessed the bishopric of Worcester. I'he following anecdote is strongly illustrative of the natural benevolence and amenity of his tem- per, even at the advanced period of ninety, when age and infirmity render most men peevish, and ill-tem- pered. A nephew of Lord Digby having called about the hour of dinner to pay iiis respects to the bishop, the servant, through some awkwardness, in placing a chair for him at the table, threw down a valuable barometer, which, as was well known^ the bishop prized highly. The gentleman who was ilie remote cause of the misfortune began to excuse the ser- vant, but was interrupted by the good-humoured prelate, who begged him not to be under any con- cern at the accident ; '* for," continued he, with a most benevolent smile, " I am much beholden to you for it : we have had a very dry season, and I now hope we shall have rain, as i never saw the glass so low in all my life." Wl.en Dr ^Jaddox was elevated to the see of Worcester, the chapel belonging to this palace was in a very dilapidated condition ; it was, however, repaired by fne direction of that prelate, and the broken glass of the windows replaced by new panes, which were painted by Price, after the designs of Dr. Wall, of Worcester, whom we have already L '2 noticed. 124 WORCESTERSHIRE. noticed. Bishop Madtiox expended upon these re- pairs the sum of 1/iOUl. 'J'he muni licence of Dr. llurd. Bishop of Wor- cester, who in the year 1783 declined accepting of the primacy of England, has contributed a hirge and valuable hbrary to the use of his successors in this bishopric, A Httle to the south-east of Hartlebury Castle is situated Waysby Gkekn, the elegant and hospi- table seat of Thomas Baker, Esq, whose thriving plantations contribute not a hltle to enrich the scenery. Returning from this digression to the recently established, but rapidly increasing town of Stour- port, we were led to visit an ancient Hermitage, situated at a short distance from the road between this town and Bewdley : it is a curious vault, cit out of black-stone rock, and divided into a cell for the habitation of the iiermit, and a chapel for his devotions; its contiguity to the Severn furnished him with a beautiful prospect, and the neighbour- icg svoods contributed greatly to render this a mo?t enchanting place of retirement. Dr. Stukeley, in his Itinerariinn Curiosum, has presented us with a ground plan of this singular cavern. Tlie impiety of the present age has jjropliancd this seat of reli- j^ious meditation and holy exercise, by converting it into a cyder-mill and cellar, which belong to Wil- son Ayk'ibury, Esq. in right of his wife. Having in our former account of Stourport omit- tfd to notice the bridge which crosses the river Severn, we embrace this opi)Orlunity of supplying the deticiency. The lirst stone of tlic bridge was laid in the month of March, 1773, and it was made passable in the September of the year 1775, at the e.xpence of 5U0()1. It consists of 52 arches, of which three are over the river, and 49 upon land, to make the aj)proac-hc3. The span of ti)e centre arch is about 46, thai; of the side ones about 42 feet. The piers TOroCRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 155 piers between measure each eight feet in tliickness, so that the length of that part of the bridge which crosses the river is l48 feet, and the passage over it 13 18 feet wide in the clear. The length of the arches upon land, at either side of the river, is 672 feet, and the road over them 2'J feet eight inches wide in tlie clear. Qvutting Stourport, we cross the little river Stour, from whence the town derives its name, and passing through the little villages of Lyncomb and iSokjh- AMPiON, reach that of OxMEEhsley, distant about five miles north of Worctsier. 'I'he Church here is dedicated to Saint Andrew, and has a liandsome spire J the interior is neatly pewed, and commodi* ously adapted to the accommodation of the pa- rishioners. '1 here is a Charity-school here, for the education of tlie children of those whose poverty renders them unable to send them to other schools. Edward 111. granted the inhabitants of this village a charter for a fair and weekly-market. The situa- tion is healthy, and the surrounding country ex- tremely beautiful ; the Severn Hows within a short distance to the west of this place, and the woods, which surround the ancient Castle of Holt upon the opposite bank, greatly enrich the prospect, which is further enlivened by the white sails of the trows and barges which are constantly plying upon the river. The parish of Ombersley is a large one, contain- ing 17 hamlets, and measuring I'J miles in circuit. Adjoining to the village is Ombersley Court, the pleasant seat of the Lady Sandys. This appears to have been a place of great antiquity. The San- dys, who at present are lords of the manor, came originally from the county of Cumberland, where they possessed considerable estates. The first per- son of this name, of whom we find any mention made, is a Dr. Sandys, whom Elizabeth created Bishop of Worcester, and elevated afterwards to L 3 i^« lt?5 \VORCESTEn?HIRE. the. archbishopric of York ; Saniiiel, the eldest son of this prelate, purchased the manor of Om- bersley. George, brotlicr to Samue], the first Lord Sandys, distinguished himself as a poet and a traveller; he published an account of the state of society and manners in Turkey, Egypt, and Pales- tine, which he visited and examined with the most accurate attention : his observations upon these countries have been fully established by the con- curring testimonies of later writers. Of the excel- lence of his poetic efforts no doubt can be enter- tained, after the high encomiums passed upon them by the sagacious Dryden, who pronounces our au- thor to have been the best versifier of his age. — Pope is said to have acc[uired his taste for poetrv from the perusal of Sandys' elegant translation of Ovid's Metamorphoses. Onibersley Court is a handsome building, plea- santly situated in a well-wooded park. It was built by the first Lord Sandys, shortly after his purchase of the estate ; the apartments are commodious and v.'ell furnished, they contain likewise a collection of good paintings, many of which belonged origi- nally to the F.arl of Orford. The paintings of most merit are, a portrait of Charles Louis, I^rince Elector, and brother to Prince Rupert : this portrait is from the pencil of Vandyke; and an excellent picture by Dobson, upon the subject of Colonel Russel, Lord Orford's father, having thrown up his com.mission in disgust. The picture represents the Colonel, Vvith Prince Rupert and Colonel Murray, over a bottle : the Prince and Murray are endeavouring to persuade Russel to resume his commission; Russel's hand rests upon the flask, and his countenance exhibits a very maud- lin appearance. Murray, with a sly look, short hair, Scotch complexion, and military countenance, i" ?een dipping a cockade into a g's-JS of burgundy, thus TOPOGTIAPHICAI. DESCRIPTTON', \ 5/ th'us intimating; that he has trepanned Russel into ;i re-acceptance of his comnii^sion. Prince Eupert appeari in the back ground somewhat fuddled. — • 'i "he toute ensemhle of the groiipe is truly ridicu- lous ; Lord Orford paid 4001. for this painting. A road of about four miles leads from Ombcrsle»y to Droiiwich : upon the left of this road is situated Vs esHvcod Park, the seat of Sir Herbert Packington, tiiready noticed in our journey from Birmingham to Tewkesbury. A little to the left of the road to Worcester is the little village cf Saiwarp, also noticed in that jour- ney. Tlie village of Hawfqud, in the vicinity of which the htile river of Saiwarp and tiie Droitwich Canal form their junction with the Severn, is agree* ably situated, and commands beautiful views over the' valley through which the canal and river wind. We here cross the streams of both by neat stone bridges, and soon after enter the village of Claines, wiiich is about two miles north of Worcester, and contains many elegant houses, Claines was originally only a chapelry to the pa- rochial church of St. Helen's, in the city of Worces- ter, it is now however erected into a distinct parisli of great extent ; the parish church is dedicated to St. John the Baptist. In this parish is situated the delightful hamlet of Beveuk, pleasajitly seated upon the bank of the Severn, opposite to the little island cf the same nam^, which has acquired such celcbiity from having af- forded a safe retreat to the rebellious inhabitants o* Worcester in the reign of ilardicanute, of wi'iich s more dttaik-d account has been already giveu in our ancicMit history of the citv of Worcester. The island of Hevere afforded an asylum a secord time to the inhabitants of Worcester in the year 1637, wheil the plague devaitaled the city, and the adjoining country. The air and situalicn of the village of Bevere ar?- remarkably 128 WORCESTER,SHIRE. remarkably dry and salubrious, and the prospect it commands highly picturesque and beautiiu!. 'i'he proximity of the Severn is also very advantageous, at once enlivening the prospect, and affording the convenency of cold bathing to those wiio are not delirred Irom this' wholesome practice by tiie muddy appearance of die v.ater. Among the many neat mansions which beautify this delighlful ham!, t, is the iiandsome seat of the learned author of the History of Worcestershire, the Rev, T. Nash, D D. Here are tlie vvater-woiks which suj.'ply the citi- zens of Worcester with that important anicle: the reservoir is 100 feet in height, and is ornamented at top with carmen. The road hence to Worcester is extremely plea- sant, being kepi constant!} in the best repau', and having upon each side neat seats belonging to the ditferent citizens of Worcester, who, in imitation of their brethren in the metropoii-? are equally desirous of breathing a little pure air, whenever the occasional relaxations of business will permit ihem. Many of these houses are built wiih taste, and have neat siirubberies interposed between them and tiie road. At Worcester we terminate our journey. JoHinieyfrom Worcestei' to Alcester ; tfiroun;fi Spctchfa/, CliarchiU, Upton Snodshurtf, Grafton Flvfo: d, Fij/- ford Flat/til, and Rous Lench. At about two miles from Worcester we reach tl^e little village ofSpETCHLEV, a place of very remote antiquity, which gave name to an ancient family called De Spetchley. Sir I'homas Lyitleton, with whose admirable works every barrister is acquainted, purciiased this manor in the reign of Edward IV. It came afterwards into the possession of a fauiily of the Xjame of Silden, and from them passed to Row- land Berkeley, Esq. of the city of Worcester, for which city he at that time sat as a representative in parliament. I'his gentleman entailed the estate up- TOr©CRA?HrCAL DESCRIPTION. 1 2f> on his second son, Sir JRobert Berkt^li.}-, knight, who Tva>? a justice of the court of King's Bench. The manor house was burnt by the royalists, a little belore tlie battle of Worcester, notwlthstand- Lig the known attachnient of its owner to the cause of tiie misguided Charles, wliich had brought down xipon him the vengeance of the Parliament, by whom he had been fined in the sum of 20,0001. nnd con- lined for sume time in the Tower of London. Sir Eobert, after the destruction of his country-seat by tht: forces of the party which he espoused, and of his town by the troops of tiie enemy, is said to liave fit- ted up iiis stables for a temporary place of residence, and to have lived in them v/ith comfort, and even with splendour, bearing his losses with that fortitude which best bespeaks a great nnnd, ever superior to tlie vexations of this imperfect world. Having confirmed the regard ofhi"» friends, and commanded the admiration of his enemies by his manly dignity and inviolable integrity, this excellent man died in the year 1(511, universally regretted ; his descendants still possess the estate. The Church of Spetchley is a neat building of stoiu-, with a square tower at its western extremity ; here are some good monuments, one to the memory of RowlanU Berkeley Esq. grandfather to Sir Robert, the justice of the King's Bench ; and another to the memory of the Judge himself, who is represented as attired in his judicial robes, with a scroll of parch- ment in his right hand. Not i\w from Spetchley is an eminence, with a small but neat house upon its summit, commanding a beautiful and widely-extended view over the rich vale of Worcester, and across the Severn, to wl-.ere the distant hilis of Malvern raise their blue summits to tl;e skies, tinged with the rich purple of the set- ting '.-un. i'liis eminence k distinguished, from its shape, by the name of Round Hill, and resembles tiie oilier barrows, or artificial mounts, which we so 6ft en 130 WORCESTERSHIRE. often observe in those pbces where sanguinary bat- t!(^s- have been loajrat between tlie Danes and the hiixons. 'i'o the north of Spetchlev are the dilapidated ruinS of IloDiiNGroN, formerly the seat of the Winters, of whom Robert and his brother Thomas were con- cerned in the Gunpowder Plot; the mansion is en- tirely surroimd<.^d by a moat, which U, however, ia many places nearly tilled up with rubbish. Spetciiley is situated in the hundred of OswakUlow, the nanie of wh.ich has long been a bone of conten- tion among antiquarians, Spelman improperly trans^ lating it Lex OHicaldi, through his ignorance of the true meaning of the word Imw or Lau-, wliich in the language of our Saxon ancestors vy'as synonimous with our modern term Hill ; an instance of this is observable upon the banks of the Firth of For4i» where, near the paltry fishing village of North Ber- wick, in the county of East Loihian, a singularly- formed isolated eminence is known by the appella- tion of North Berwick Law, or Low, which would but ill admit of Spelman's fanciful translation. Oswaldslow hundred lies dispersed in different parts of the county, and consists of three divisions, which are distinguished by the names of Up}>er, Middle, and Lower ; its name is derived from Os- wald, bishop of Worcester, who obtained a grant of it from Edtiar. The following is the account of it as entered in the Doomsvlay Survey : " The church of St, Mary at Worcester has the hundred called Os- waldslow, in whicii le 300 hides, of wiiich the bishop of this cluuchj by ancient constitution, had all the revenues of tiie sees ajid other customs therein, be- longing to the lord's maintenance, and the king's service, and his own, so that no sherilf can have any claim there, neither in any plea, nor any other cause, 'i'his is altested by the whole county." The foregoiui; extensive immunities were confirmed to the bishop by the Jirst and second Henries, and ai^e;- mented TOFOCRAPHICAI. DESClilPTION. 131 nientcd by the tluid, in consequence of liis lather, John, h.aving been interred at Worcester Cathedral. Ihe bailiwick consisted of a three-week's court, tlune vere held besides seven cou:t-leets, for the hundred, either on great coninions, in fields, or on hiils under trees. 1 lie bahifls were, and still continue in ihe election of the bishop, who generally appoints gen- tlemen of the county to that oihce ; in consequence of the expence n>*re than counterbalancing the? profits of the court-leets, they are held but seldom, arid with little regularity. Oswaldslow is the largest of the six hundreds uito'which ihis county is divided, and contains, incorportiled with it, the hundreds of Vlfem luw and Cutlihury lau, of which nientiun -is inade in some old chariers. Two miles beyond Sp> tchley is the pleasing vil- lage of Churciull, noted for its mineral spring, which some hold in equal estimation with ta.- spa at Tunbridge. Ihis sprmg was formerly much fre- quented by invalids ; it is at present, liowever, ne- glected, thoug!) upon what grounds we havebeeii un- ablt- to learn ; we should, however, be inclined to ascribe this dtsertion to a discovery of the inefllca- cy of the water in removing those complaints for "whichj without sulficient investigation, it was cele- brated. The folly of arguin:^ respeciing the nudi- c:nal effects of mineral waters, solely from ilieir che- mical analysis, has been plainly evinced in the case of tlic Batli and many other waters, whose fame has been long established upon a surer basis than vague conjecture or fashionable caprice. We cannot, therefore, pretend to draw on a priori conclusion from the small quantity of mineral ingredients found to enter into the composition of the water at Cliurch- ill, but from its total desertion we may very rea- sonably be permitted to conclude that if it possessed any virtues it was in a very trifling degree. Tho- mas Bird, Esq. has an extremely neat and agreeably s^iluated 132 WORCESTERSHIRE. situated villa in this neighbourhood, called Norton Lodge. . Three miles beyond Churchill we reach tlie vil- lage of Ui'TOK bJ.NoDSBURY, in which, upon the /th of November, in the year 1707, a shocking mur der was committed by a gang of desperate villains, upon a lady of the name of Palmer, and her maid- servant; vviiat added to the atrocity of the crime %vas the circumstance of the party being headed by Mrs. Palmer's own son, and his brother-in-law, a Mr. ISymond-i *, both of these possessed property, Palmer having an estate of 2001. per annum, besides 7401. in bonds, Sec. Symonds was a descendant of the judge of the same name who was so strongly at- tached to Oliver Cromwell, whom he entertained at his house upon the night preceding the memorable, and, for the royalists, unfortunate battle of Worces- ter. Palmer and Symonds were brought to trial for this nefarious deed, ana being found guilty were sentenced to be gibbetted, which was accordin. ly ex- ecuted upon the eighth day of May, in the ensuing year. Leaving Upton Snodsbury w-e cross, at the dis- tance of about a mile and a half, a small brook cal- led the Piddle, which flowing by the villages of North Piddle, Naunton, Beaucliamp, and Penvin, falls into the Avon near Fladbury, a little to tlie north east of l\-rshorc. Grafton Flyford is a small village with a neat parish church ; a good turnpike road branches oft' hence to the left towards Droitwich, which is distant about live miles. About one mile further is the village of Flyforp Flayell, having a good parochial church. At a small distance to the south-east of this village, is Abbrrton, where are wells, strongly impregnated with the sulphate of INLignesia, or bitter purging salt; these waters might frequently be substituted vitfi advantage for those at Epsom, the ingredientii of TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCPvIPTION. 133 of which are similar. It is however belter perhaps to trust to the shUs which are procured from the druggists, as we can be in almost every case cer- tain of their not being adulterated by any poisonous admixture, while the natural springs must necessa- rily be exposed to the contamination of many fo- reign and often highly prejudicial substances ; be- sides from the very dilute state of the natural sahne solution, to produce tlic desired effect a quantity highly distressing to many stomachs is requisite to be taken. From Abberton a small stream runs into the Avon. Previous to the Dissolution, this belonged to tb.e abbey of Pcrshore ; Henry VJIL gave it to the family of Sheldons, in v/hose possess- sion it still continues. Rous Lench is not very remote from Abberton, being a little to the right of the road from Worces- ter to Alcester ; there was the seat of the Rous's, a family as ancient as the days of Edward 11, Du- ring the turbulent period of the civil wars, this fa- mily sided with the Cromv.'eliau party, which nearly occasioned their ruin. Tlie manor house was a large building, at present however but little of it remains. CoKLHiLL formerly had a nunnery, which was founded by Isabella, countess of Warwick, who be- came herself a nun, and chore her own nunnery for her residence. At the Dissolution, this establishment was valued at 351. per annwm. Very little of the remains of the religious buildings can be now disco- vered. At the Suppresoion, Ihe^ite of this nunnery with its estates were granted by Henry Vlll. to Kichard Fortescue, Ksq, who^e c-lescendants con- tinue to possess it. W« here exchange the county of Worcester for that of W^arwick ; the distance from her.ce to Alcester is about two milcj. M Journeif !34 WOIICESTERBHIRE. Journeij from Droit vie h to Alcester ; through Meer Green, Bradlcj/, and Fexkenham. Between two and three mile^ distance from Droit- vich, upon the left side of the road, is Hanuuky Hall ; tliis manor was granted by King Ethelwald in tl)e year 573 to Pettrborougn, along with the iTianor of Brer/on. This place has been the scat of the Vernon family ever since the middle of the i7th century. The present mansion was built, at the commencement of the last (I8th) century, by coun- sellor Vernon, whose heiress in the year 1780 mar- ried Henry Cecil, nephew to the Earl of Exeter. It is a handsome building, seated in a well-wooded park, from many parts of which the distant hills of JMalvern are seen, " whose sunbriglit summits n)in- gle with the sky." The Coteswold Hills, seemingly a continuation of the Brrdon Hills, are visible to the soutl), and immediately to the west the distant spires of Worcester are seen at tirnes peering above the verdant foliage of tiie trees. Ttie scene forci- bly recalled to our recollection the beautiful open- mg of Campbell's exquisite poem of the Pleaswres of Hope: the sun was just setting behind the hills of Malvern, the sky was unspotted by a cloud, and the whole of the prospect harmonised with the de- scription of the poet. I'he impression was so strong that we cannot forbear transcribing the passage which contributed so much to heighten it. "At summer's eve, when Heav'n's aericl bow Spans with brip,ht arch the i;l'ttering hills below, Why to yon mountain turns the musing eye, Whose sunbright summit mingles with the sky? Why do those cliffs of shadowy tint appear More sweet than uU the landscape gmiling near? 'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, And robes the mountain in its axure hue. Thus with delight we linger to survey The promis'd joys of life's unmeasur'd way ; Thus TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION", 135 Tluis from -afar cacli fliii.-dibC(jver'd scene More pleasing seems th:in all the past hath been ; And ev'rv fonn that fancy can repair From dark oblivion, glows divinely there." A little to the east of Hanbury Hall and Park is the paristi Church, a neat but small building, well adapted to the bize ot the parish ; it does not con- tain any monuments deserving of particular notice. At MtER Green, upon the right of our road, a iittli! beyond Hanbury, there is a small chapel. About two miles hence, upon the left side of the road, is f^ECKtNhAM Lodge, siiuated in the parish of the same name. In the forest of Feckenham was born John, the last abbot of Westminster, who was called after the place of his birth ; he was chaplain to Bishop Bonner, but a more moderate champion in the tottering cause of Popery. He died at Wis- bech Castle, in the year 1683. In the reign of Henry 11. the forest of Fecken- ham was very extensive, and was one of the places where the lords and justices held their courts to de- termine breaches of the forest laws, and had a pri- son for the confinement of delinquents in the vil- lage. 1 he Church here is a neat structure, dedicated to St. Johh the Baptist. The chief employment of the inhabitants of this village, is in the manufacture of needles, of which large quantities and of an excel- lent quality are made here. The forest ha? been much thinned by the quantity of fuel taken thence to supply the salt works at Droitwich. There is a Charity School here for the education of boys and girls, the endowment is 501. per annum. Two fairs are annually held at this village, upon the 26th of March, and '301h of September. From hence to the borders of the county is a distance of about three miles, and from thence to Alcester about tkree miles further. M 2 Journey 136 WORCESTERSHIRE. Journey from Dudley to Alcester ; through Hales Oioen, Bronesgrove, Ta7dbeck, and Headless Crosj. An agreeable ride of five miles brings us to the iieat town of Hales Owen, situated, as has been ob- served in a fornier journey, in an isolated part of Shropshire, and remarkable for having in its vici- nity two of the most beautiful, classic, and celebra- ted seats which the county of Worcester can boast ; those namely of Hagley and the Leasov.'es. ■ Be- sides these, it has, a little further to tiie east, upon the confines of Staffordshire, another equally re- markable place, Wkoley Castle, situated in the parish of Northfield. The extent of the ruins of this castle strongly bespeak its former consequence, they occupy a space of not less than 17 acres, and are situated in a park of 1800 acres, the property of J. Clark Jervoise, Esq. who is at present represen- tative in parliament for the borough of Yarmouth ia the isle of Wight. The moats extend, for the most part from half an acre to two acres, are generally square, the breadth of the trenches varying from eight to 20 yards. The castle, which was inclosed within these moatg, was of great size and strongly built. Its site is at present occupied by a garden, which is so laid out that tl.e remains of the walls form the divisions be- tween the beds, which are formed in their turn by the rooms of the building. Adjoining to the parish of Northfteld is that of King's Norton, in which is situated Moats, for a long time the residence of the ancient and respect- able family of p'ield. Continuing our course along tliC great road from Birmingham to Worcester, we reach the Lnckey Hill, which is generally esteemed the highest land in the island. 'I'his hill contains about 2000 acres of waste l4nd, which affords a delicate pasturage for large herds of sheep; tlie iheep fed here are said to TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRtPTIONr. 137 to have rc-markably fine wool. In liiis hill rise three small rivers : the Arrow, which flowing by Alvechurch, Broley Pari<, and Bordesley Abbey, enters the county of Warwick, near the village of Ippesley, and winding round the eastern side of Aicester falls into the Avon at Stratford ; th.e Sal- warp, which flowing by Droitwich, falls into the Severn at liawford, also rises in the Lickey Hill ; as does a third small river, which, pursuing an op- posite course, falls into the Trent. About Hve miles hence, we enter the ancient town of Bromesgrove, which has been ah'eady no- ticed in our journey from Birmingham to Worces- ter and Tewkesbury. Proceeding hence we take the road branching off to the east, and crossing the new canal of communication between Worcestec and Birmingham, enter the village of Tarubeck, where is a neat church, which was rebuilt in the 3 car 1774, when the negligence of the workmen occasioned much damage to the Windsor monu- mewts, as also to tJjat of Sir Tiioinas Cooke, by whom VVorcttister College at Oxford was founded* This gentleman had been married to one of the W^indsor family ; by his own desire he was interred, upon his death, in the year 17?'2, with a gold chaim and locket round his neck, and two diamond rings of little value upon his fingers ; these ornaments were, however, taken from the corpse in the year 1780, by order of the heir. Hf.wll Grange, the seat of the Earl of Ply- mouth, is agreeably situated in a pleasant park, di- versified with hills, dales, and wood, and containing an extensive piece of water, wiiich covers SO acres. The house was built in the year 1712, and is close to the village of Tardbeck. At some distance to the north of Tardbeck is the village of Alvechurch, through which the Jkening Street passes in its way from Aicester to Wall, near , Litchfield, This street is mentioned as a boun- •lary 138 WORCESTERSHIRK. dary in the parish of Alvecluirch in a deed dated 5:i the 30th year of the reign of Henry VIII. In this village is an Almshouse, which was foui^.d^d in the year 1580, by Nicholas Lewknor, E?q. of Had- zor, for 12 poor persons ; the number has been re- duced to nine, in conseq\ience of dispv.tes concern- ing the foundation in the time of Queen Elizabeth. At a short distance to the east of Alvechurch, is the village of Broley, in the vicinity of which is Broley Hail, the agreeable seat of Thomas Holmes, Esq. Returning hence, towards the turnpike road, we pass BoRDEsLEV Abbev, situated in the parish of Tardbeck ; this abbey was founded for monks of the Cistercian order, by the Empress Maud; though, from the circumstance of Waleran de Beaumont, Earl of Meilent and Worcester, having laid the first stone of the foundation in the year 1138, some have been inclined to suppose that he was the founder. From this abbey, in the year 1328, Edward the Third directed liis writ of privy seal to restore the famous stone of Scone. At the Dissolution the re- venues of this establishment were estimated, as the accurate Nash informs us, at 3881. 93. lOd. Henry VIII. granted the site and estates of this abbey to Andrew Lord Windsor, in a forced exchange for the manor of Stanwell. The site and foundations of the abbey occupy about eight acres of ground ; St. Stephen's Chapel is the only part of the monas- tic buildings which remains entire. Leaving Bordesley Abbey we cross a little rivulet, which soon after falls into the river Arrow, and passing through the hamlet of Bedditch, regain the turnpike-road upon the borders of the county, which it traverses for a few miles, passing by Head- less Crow to the village of Astwooa, where it enters the county of Warwick, and brings us to Alcester, which is about seven miles south south-east of Ast- wood. Journey TOPOGHAPH-'CAL DESCRIPTION. 139 J'jurnn/ from Tenbury to Worcester ; through Upper Sapcy, Clifton, Martley, and St. John's. At the distance of between eight and nine miles from Teahury we reach Stanford, the seat of Sir Edward Winnington, Bart, whose aticester obtained it by marriage with the heiress of Salway. The house is dehghttully situated in a very extensive park, abounding in the most pleasing prospects, richly clothed with the most luxuriant woods, and further enlivened by the possession of two beau- tiful pieces of water. The gar^lens are laid out with no small taste and judgment, and contain a remarkably fine cedar of Lebanon, which was j)lanted by Sir l^dward Winnington. An old Hermitage, commonly known by the name of the Stone House, is situated upon a steep eminence embosomed by great hills, at the dis- tance of about one mile Irom Stanford : it consists of several apartments, of which some were devoted to religious, and others to domestic purposes, all hewn out of the solid rock. Upon the summit of the rock was a Chapel dedicated to Si. John the' }3aplist, upon the anniversary of whofe nativity there was a solemn otTeking in the chapel ; which cere-- mony being concluded, the assembly repaired to a well in the vicinity, which was reputed to possess considerable medicinal virtues, of which some drank for the benefit of their health, but more for the grati- iication of their palate, the wsrter being very ai^ree- able. Sir Edward Winnington has in his possession a curious otTertory dish, found near this chapel, the inscription of which has puzzled all the antiqua- rians who have ever attempted to decypher it. The village of Stanford is a little to the east of Sir Edward Winningtou's Park; the river Teme flows to the east of it ; the old bridge which had been thrown across the river here by Humphrey I'ackington, Esq. iiaving been much damaged, and- rendered 140 WORCESTERSHIRE. rendered dangerous, vvasreplact^d by an iron bridge, lesemblmji that at Colebrook Dale, but being, as is generally believed, constructed too slightly, it gave way, and fell upon ihe 2jth of Septeniber, 1795. — The parish Church is an elegant GotJiic structure, built of a handsome species of stone, taken from a quarry close to its site, which was discovered just at tiie time of its foundation being laid in the year 17G8, This building, conspicuously situated upon a commanding eminence in Stanford Park, is a. iine object from all parts of the adjacent country. Quitting Stanford, we proceed by Spelsey Walsh, famous for having been tije residence of the spirited Sir William Walsh, of whom mention is made in another places A little further is the village of CLIFTo^-o^■-TEME, which gives name to a beau- tiful parish, through which the river Teme winds, irrigating and fertilizing tin? rich meadows and hop plantations which are situated on its banks. The village of Clifton has a weekly-market and two an- il ual'fairs. In the parish of Clifton, and not very remote from the village, stood Hamme or Ham Castle, which for more than 200 years belonged to the ancient family of Jefferys, but at present is the property of Sir ildward Vv'innington of Stanford. Ham Castle was damaged by lire in tJie year 1605, and was com- pletely destroyed during the Civil Wars. In the year 'l6-J9, Mr. Jell'erys found, a. treasure in an iron chest, concealed iu one of the vaults of this castle. We here cross the river Teme, and enter the vil- lage of Martley, which is about seven miles west of the city of Worcester. This village gives name to a rich and populous parish, which prt'duces abun- dant crops of hops. Ihe rectory of this parish is reckoned one of the best in tlsc county, being esti- mated in a good hop year at 12001. The village .of Martley is in general v.'cli built, and contains some, gentle;nen£,' TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. l4l gentlemen's houses. The parish Church is a neat building, dedicated to St. Peter. From Putford Banks, in this parish, the mountains of Wales may be easily discerned : ihf. whole parish is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, i- well cultivated, and furnisiies abundance of beautiful and highly-pic- turesque prospects. To tlie south of Martley, bordering upon the county of Hereford, and situated upon the direct road from Bromyard to Worcester, is the village of Kkightwick, which formerly constituted part of the possessions of the priory of Great Malvern. — The views on the liiils in this parish are beawtiful and extensive, especially those from Ankerdine Hill and linker's Coppice ; from hence may be seen the country about Worcester, Pershore, and Ciiei- tcnham, with the Broadway, Bred on, and Cotes- woid Hills, as al ,0 several eminences in Leicester- shire, and the Clent Hills near Hagley. At a little distance to the south-east of Knight- wick, is tne village of Alfkic or Al'fric, situated near tlie borders of the county. Here Spelman im- agined h(* had discovered Austin's Oak, which we have noticed in our description of the vicinity of Bewdley. From Alfrick we proceed by the turnpike road t<» Worcester, passing by the village of LtiGH^ adjoin- ing to which 13 a place called the Castle, thougii no traces of any building can be at present discovered. 1'he parish of Leigh is very extensive, and contains a large quantity of rich meadow land ; it stretches southward as far as the Malvern Hills, upon the acclivity of which is the n)ansion-house of Cowleigh^ which separates the conndes of Worcester and Here- ford. The Cimrch of Leigh contains several an- cient monuments. Passing hence, we reach tlie village of Brans- ford, where there is a snulf-mill, built on the banks of the Teme, wliich we cross liere by a neat stone N bridge. 1 42 Worcestershire. bridge. Hence to St. John's is a distance of abonf three miles, througii a rich and pleasing countrv. Crossing the Severn we re-enter the city of Worces- ter, and terrniiiate our last journey. The principal antiquities to be observed in this county are the ALiI)cy of Bordesle^^ in the parish of Tardbeck, upon the ccKifinesofWarwickslurc; the Abbey at Evesham, the Abbey of Pershore, at IMaivcrn, &c. The Camps at Malvern, on "Wiutchbury Hill, on Woodbury Hill, &c. Crookbarrow Jlill, which is accounted the largest barrow in England. J>iKUey Caslle and Priory, Elmly Castle upon the Bredon Hills, to the soutli of Evesham and Pershore, Hagley Cas- tl-?, Hurtiebury Castle, Ilodington, Holt Church, Camp near Cothcridgc, I\ound Hill, a small barrow, with a lioase upon it.^ siunmit, ncnr Spetchley ; Wroley Castle on the borders otihe county near Birmingham, Worcester Cathedral, Sg.c. f)T a dt'scripiiun oi which we refer our readers to preceding KHD OF TOPOnP/. PMICAt DESCKI?TTO>.V TABLE OF COXTENTS iO THE DESCRIPTION OF Vr'ORCESTERSHIRE. Fage Index of Distances, from Town to Town, . . . ; . S Tnspectiou- Table, .■.-.,•., 4. Itinerary. Sec. ....,...., 5 List of i-airs, ..•...,... «1 Genera! Description, ..,.,.«• S3 Boundaries, Situation, Extent, Climate, E ivers. Canals, Civil and Ecdesiastical Divisions, Ancient History, Topograpical Description, .....,; C7 Journey from Ludlow to Stow-on tiic-VVold in Olou'^ps. tei shire; tlirou'^h Tenbury, Worcester, Pexshoie, and Eveshrtm, ....... iu, Jouraey froiH Tciibury to Eirminc^ham ; tlirouoh Bewdley, Kidderminster, and S ourbridfre, . ... 7* T«urney from BirminnhHm to Tewkesbur.y ; throngli Biomes- grove, Droitwich, Worcester, Kempsry, and Severa Stoke, .-...•... 101 Journey from Worcester to Upton ; through Great and Little Malvern : continued back again to Worcester, thr6ugh Hanley and Powick, ...... Ill Journey from Kidderminster to Worcester ; through Stour- port, and Omfeprsley, . . . • . 121 Journey from Worcester toAIcester; tliroush Spetchley, Churchill, Upton Snodsbury, Graflon Flyford, Dy- ford Flayell, and Rous Lench, .... 123 Journey from Droitwich toAIcester; tlirouoli Meer Green, Bradley , and Feckcnhani, ..... I'* /ourney from Dudley to Aicestcr , throuah Hales Owen, Bromeserove, Tardbeck, and l[';adle Jl_, -1 1 r^ 1 ^ 1 r-< 5 1 . 1 » 1 * 1 1 1 . 1 1 1 • 1 • j : >> 1 o ■^ 1 ► ^ ^ ^ • oT fc£) (/T ctf n ^ o ■""" o t5 _« P:^ .o . -1 0/ s .> S ^6 C/3 ■^ i> c^ 1 "S 11 s . =3 O ■:>( 1 "' «i> O '^ ^ ::--5 '■*^ J^ t-^ 1 <« — s ■^ • j:) l> c< Oi o ■^-^ 5 V3 -a 1 ' 1 ^ ■^ 05 CO 1 - 5 'P cC CM ex 1 ^ o "2 -e 3, ^ »'» _ CO „ CO o< ,0 CO oo Z II 7i X 05 ■o rn 1 ^O 1 — 1 1 ^2 1 - .— j_ 1 ""^ 1 1 '^ ^ Vl- s 9 1 1 1 1 1 -■i" _ 1 r^ 1 -< O^ CO E? o <"0 1 " C^ -o 1 1 1 — ' 1 1 1 ^„ • 1 • * 1 • o I 1 y the letters R and L. JOURNEY FROM COMB TO RIFORD, TIiaOUGII HEREFORD. Comb to Byton Lane On L a T. R. to Leominster, hi/ Shohdon and l\'n- bury. Crojs the King- ton Canal and the Arrow River. Pembridt^e '6i b} At Rembridt'e on K a T. R. tu Kington Eardlaiid Road \\ 6~ About tzou miles beyond on L a T. R. to Leominster^ on R tu Hay. Two miles beyond J^ardland Road on taT. R. to Leo- minster f on L to Hay. One mile and a half beyond Byton Lane, in the road from JMurtimer's Cross to Presteign, Shohdon Court, Wiliunn Hanbury, esq. L, Burton Court, John Brew- si er, eaq. Lamb, esq. R. A 3 Stretford Bridge West Hope New Inn Three Elms White Cross At White Cross, on R a T. R. to Kington by Yazoi- IIerefokd At He?-eford on L T. it's, to Moj- difordy Ledbuiy, Worctster, Brom- yard, and Leomin- ster ; and a little beyond on R a T. R. to Aberga- venny Cross the Wye Rivtr to Callow Cross in Hand, T. G. On R a T. R. to Monmouth. Great Birch ITINERARY OF THE '2i 13f 18| 10^ 20| Hide Field, J. Carpenter, esq. R. Robin Hood's Butt, R. At Cunon Fyon, Major Sawyer, Ji. Tiltington Court, WiUiani Taylor, esq. R. At Bitr- gill,--. - R. Biddulph, esq. At Huntingdon, John Evajis, esq. R. [nns — Ci/y Arms, Hold, Green Dra^ion, Ntw Inn. 24| Brynguin, Cuptoin Fhiilips, R ; and a mile beyond is Meend Fark, T. F. Sy- monds, esq. Aramstone, John Woodhousc , esq. L. ROADS IN UEREFORDillinE. Hnrewood End, Inn Petcrstow Wilton At Wilton on R a T. R. to Mon- mouth. Cross the river Wi/e. Ro^s At Ross onL o T. R. to Ledburij. Weston '4 29i 32^ 2i!35 Sir Hnugefford Hoskins* hart. L. Pengethler/, Lieut, Col. Sj/- mondsy L. Mrs. Clarke, R. Q, 'oil At Westouj F. Lawson, esq. J. Swdine, esq. and J. Riford 1 38| Hardzcirk, esq. JOURNEY FROM LUDFORD BRIDGE TO WELSH NEWTON, THROUGH LEOMINSIER AND HERErORD. Luiiloid Bridge to Lndford Park, N. L. Char.- ton, esq. R. Overton Bilberry Port way Road (o Orltton On L a T. R. to Ttnburi/, on R in Fresleign and Kington. Luston Cross the King- ton Canal. On L a T. R. to Tenhury. Cross the river Lugg. 8| Berrington, Ludy Rodney, -L<» 8 ITINERARY OF THE Ll^OMINSJER 2i 11 On L a T. It to Bru)//i/ard, on 'Rto Kin^ton^ i^''^-, and Freutign. Ivingtv n r-ridi^e Cross the Arrow River. ' Wharton Hope Dininore Hill Wellington Morton Holmer Hereford At Hereford on L T. Rs.' to Broni yard, and Worces ter ; on 11 to Hay and Kington. Cross the rive} Wye. On R a T. R. to Abergavenny. Callow Cross in Hand, T.G. On La T. R. to Ross. Wormelow Stunnp Inn 20 27 31 31i H-H Inns — Crown, King's Anm, Talbot, Unico?'n. Hampton Court, Earl of Essex, L. Winsley, T. Berrington, esq, IX. Burghope, an ancient man- sion,formerly the seat of Sir J. D. Goodyere, bart. now the property of Lord Sel- sea, R ; and at Dinmore, Fleming, esq. R. At Morton, J. Keysall, esq. Caldecot, esq. R. Inns — City Arms, Hotel, Green Dragon, New Inn, Bryngzciuy — Fhilips, esq. II, RO.\DS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. 9 • — — — II \T/ie Meend, T.Sjpnonds,€sq, I R. Lj/sun House, Abrw liuin IVhitakery eaq. L. St. Weonards Welsh Tsevvton 371 P. R. ][lj/ners, e$q. R. JOURNEY FROM UPPER SAPY TO ALTERINES, THROUGH BROMYARD AND HEREFORD. Upper Sapey to Ted stone Wafer Saiiciv Cross On L a T. R. to Clifton. Bromyard OnLaT. R.lo Worcester^ on R to Leominste?'. About three miles beyond Biomyard, on h a T. R. to Ledbury. Stoke Lacy Burley Gate Withington Marsh Lueg Bridge Cro>iS the river Lugg. A tittle beyond Liigg Bridge on R o T. R. to Leomin stcr. Hereford 5) ~z^ 2 I 4i 6i 10| 18i [nn — Falcon. \u:ood, esq. At Burley Gate, J. West* Rev. John Griffiths, R. 201 Inns — City Arms, Hotel, Green Ihogon, New [nn. Belmont, J. Mattktics, esq, L. About Jour miles be- yond Hereford, Allens- 7/inor, Edward Letchmere rattiihaU, e^q. L. 10 ITTNERARY OF THE Goose Pool 3| IMi- Willocks Bridge '4 •J6i Wormbridge 3 29f At Wormbridge, E. B. Clkt^ Cross the Worim esq. River. Kenderchurch n 32 At Kcnlc/inrch, Kentchurch Vark, the iaie John ScU' dun/ore, esq. L. Pontrilas I 32i At Fontrilus, Henry Shlf- Cross the Munnow 7icr, esq. River. RowJston \i 34i Alterines o\ oik JOURNEY FROM KINGTON TO LITTLE LONDON, THROUGH HEREFORD AND XEDBURY. Kington to Lion's Hall Bond's Green About three milesbtyond Botufs Green on L a T. R. to Leoininster, on R to Hay. SVeobly nr.sley iiriiisop Court Tiliintrton 3 3 •1 4| t 1 r) 1 Hi 1 l-l 1 Surnsficld House, J. W. Westo?iy esq. R. Gornston Hall^ John Pephe Birch, esq. R. Grange House, R. F. Knin/it, esq. L. At Brinsop Court, Diinsei/, esq. \:y yrUinigion Court, William Taylor, CSq. L. On R of Crtdcnhill, the Magna Castra of the Romans, Edmund Eckley, esq. Three Elms On L a T. R. to Kington. White Cross Hereford Tupsley C}'0ss the river Lu^wardine Bartestree Cross the Frame Ql N HEREFORDSHIRE. 11 At Burghill, — Bid- dulphy esq. L. 17i Dormmgton At Dormington on R a T. R. to Mordifm^d Bridge. Stoke Eiiith Torrington Pool End The Trumpets Ledbury Mills On La T. R. to Bromi/ard. Ledbury At Ledbury on L o T. R, to Wor- U If U 24| 26 27| 28| 34i 33i ^•lif Huntingdon, John Evans, esq. R. Inns — Ci Green Man S On La T H. to Kington hij Yazor. White Cross On L a T. R. to Kington, hy Wco- hlij. Hereford ITINERARY OF THE ll 15 ^\ 1 1 171 Inns — City Anm, Hotel, Green Dragon, New Inn Inns — Crorcji, King's Talbot, Unicorn. JOURNEY FRO?vI LAYSTER'S HILL TO CLIFFORD, THROUGH LEOMINSIER. Layster's Hill to Kimbolton Stocktonberry Cross Cn R aT.R.t Ludloio Cross the River L"gg. Leominster 0>: M a T. R. to Luii.'oTc by Port- zcay. on L to Here- ford, i A mile beyond Leominster on R a T. R. to Fresteign. Cross the Attoio river Monkland y| Sf Tico miles and «j half from Mo n k- \ land on R a T, R to Pembridge, or L to Hereford, Iruit^ Burton Court, J. Brewster^ esq, K. ROADS IN llEREFORDSHinF:. 15 Great Dclwyn 3{-jl2 9 3 Henwuud, Lucon Lanibe, esg, L. ^eicton, Thomas Phillips^ ^7i 21' 22 1- Sornsfield Courts J. Wehh WeUoiiy eaq. il. At K'mncrsley, Kinnersky Cattle, Leonard Parkiri' son, esq. Divinon of the Raud On L a T. R. to We.obly ; and a Utile far the?' on P I to Kington. SarjisHelcl 11-16 On L a T. R. to Hereford, md a little Jarther on H to Kington. Kinnpislty JXear Wdle.rsley onl^ a T. R. to Kington, on L to Hereford. Wiiiersiey 3|: Winforton Whitiicy Cross the Rivet Try.. I I JOURNEY FROM HEREFORD TO STIFFORD BRIDGE, TII HOUGH NEWTOWN, Hereford to | Lugg Brid;;e CVo.jS the Riveri On L a T. R. lo\ Bromyard. i bhucknell |4 6 Kewtowii 12 8 Ejjglctoii Bridge |l 9 B 5 24-| At Whitney, Whitney Court ■I Mrs. Dew, 16 ITINERARY OF THE 1 Qi 4 ^4 2 Hi 1 1 li 13 3 16 1 17 1 H. C. Hopton, esq, R. Cross i^e LodcUn River. Eggleton Five Bridges Cross ^//e Frome 2livef\ A little farther on L a T. R. to Bromi/urd. Turn on the R and then on the L to Fromes Hill Ridge way Cross .Stifford Bridge Cross the Crad- ley Brook, and en- ter Worcestershire JOURNEY FROM LITTLE HEREFORD TO BYTON LANE, THROUGH ORLETON. Little Hereford to Cj^oss the King- ton Canal. Briinfield Cross On R a T. R. to Ludlow. Brim field At Brim field on Lrt r. R.'to Leo- minster, I urn to the R (Ohl a Utile /'a/- thcr on R to Lud- low. Orleton Division of the Road ll n i 2 2 4 \ 4f On R to LudlozOy on L lo Leominster. Cockgate Mortimer's Cross OnLaT.R. to Leominster, on R to Ltidloxv, Easthampton r.OADS IN IlEREFOIlDSHIRt. T. li. 17 n H 9i 10^ At Croft, Croft Cast/e, So" 7!itrict Davis, esq. R. Sfiohdon Court, Wm, bury, esq. L* HaU" Byton^ Lane 'On L a T. to Leominster, Sliohdon on R Presteign. JOURNEY FROM ASTON TO STAPLETON CASTLE, TilROLUII LENTHALL. Downton Castle, Richard Fuyne Knight, esq. R. At Wigmore, WigmoreWdl, Somerset Duvis, esq. ; and about two miles to the L Croft Castle, Somerset Davis, esq. Aston to Ellon 1 1 Lentliall :| 2I Wig,more H 4 On LaT. R. to ^l&rtimeri Cross. Dickrndale H H Oitr Darvold Forest to Lvr.ii-v n n 8 V\ iiiev Cross '■} 9| Suiijktou Castle Ji Hi b3 CORRECT LIST OF ALL THE FAIRS IN HEREFORDSHIRE. Brampton. — June '22, for horned cattle, horses, sheep, and wool. Bromyard. — Thursday before March 25, horned cat- tle and horses ; May 3, Whit-Monday, Thursday before St, James, July ^5, Thursday before October 29, for horned cattle and sheep. Dorstone. — April 27, May 18, September 27, No- vember 18, for horned cattle, horses, sheep, and pigs. Hereford. — Tuesday after Candlemas, February 2, for horned cattle, horses, and hops; Wednesday in Easter-week, horned cattle, and horses ; May 19, a pleasure fair and toys ; July 1, horned cattle and wool ; October 20, horned cattle, cheese, and Welsh butler. Huntingdon. — July 18, November 13, pedlary, horned cattle, horses, sheep, lambs, and a great fair for yarn. Kingdand. — October 10, for horned cattle, horses, hops, cheese, and butter. Kington, or Kyneton. — Wednesday before Easter Whit- Monday, August 2, September 4, for horses and cattle of all sorts. Ledburi/. — First Monday in February, for horses, cat- tle, pigs, sheep, &c. ; Monday before Easter, May 12, for horned cattle, and cheese; June 22, ditto nnd wool ; October 2, horned cattle, bops, cheese, and pigs; Monday before St. Thomas, Dec. 21 horned cattle, cheese, and fat hogs. Leominster. — February 13, Tuesday after Midlent Sun- day, May 14, for horned cattle and horses ; July 10, for LIST OF FAIRS. 19 for horned cattle, horses, wool, and Welsh butter ; September 4, for horned caitle, horses, and butter ; November 8, for horned cartle, hops, and butter. Longtozvne, near Bishop's Castle. — April 29, and Sep- tember 21, Orleton. — April 24, for horned cattle. Fembridge. — May 12, Nov. 22, for horned cattle. Ross. — Holy Thursday, horned cattle and sheep ; Cor- pus Christi, for horned cattle and cheese ; July 20, horned cattle, horses, ;>heep, and wool ; Thursday after October 10, for horned cattle, cheese, and but- ter ; December 11, horned cattle and plosed to the westerly winds are not quite so favour- able ; these winds being more cold, from blowing over a considerable tract of the Welsh mountains, which are often covered with snow even late in the spring : from that point also proceeds a much more than equal proportion of fogs and blue mists. NAME AND ANCIENT HISTORY. This county takes its name from the city of He- reford, which is said to be pure Saxon, and lo sig- nify, i/ie Fold of the army ; a name, certainly agree- ing well with the situation of the place, which stands on the Wye, that falls into the Severn, and makes part of the barrier between England and Wales. As the two nations were almost always at war one with another, this town was generally the head quarters of such Saxon or English forces as were siationed in the county ; and at this place both ar- mies 'J'2 HKKEFORDSniRE. iiiies probably forJ.-d the river, when Ihey passed out of Wales i.'Uu Eagland, or out of EnajSand into Wales. This account of the derivation of the name is however somewhat doubtlul, as the ancieal l3ri- tish name of tiie county was Ereinuc ; and it is therefore conjectiired that Here, the hrst part of the Saxon name, was implicitly borrowed from Erei, the first part of the British ;' so that except Erei in British, and Here in Saxon, have tlie same significa- tion, Hereford was not intended lo express the ford of the army. What Erienuc signilies is not known, but the Saxons probably only changed the termina- tion, and called the place tlie ford of Erie, consider- ing Erie not as a significant word, but the proper name of the place. S )me, howe'^er, have supposed that both the British and Saxon names were de* rived from Ariconium, the name of an ancient town near this place, mentioned by Antoninus, which is said to have been destroyed by an earthquake, and Hereford to have been built in its stead, Herefordshire, tooretner witii Radnors lire, Breck- nockshire, ?*'Ionmoutiisi\ire, and Glaniorganshire in Wales, con>tiiute that district which at the period of the Roman invasion was inliai)ited by the Silures, a brave, and.Jiardy people, who in conjunction with the Ordovices, or inhabitants of North Wales, for a considerable time retarded the progress of the Ro- man arms ; for it appears that tiie grand object of all the operations of Ostorius Scapula, wlio com- manded under the Emperor Claudius, was the con- quest of these nations, which had cnosen the biave Caractacus as their chieftain. Aulus Plautiiis, the predecessor of Ostorius, had constructed in the vicinity of the Severn and the Avon, a chain of forts, which, on the arrival of Osto- rius, appears to have been occupied by tiie Rv.nan army, previous to wiiich the country of the Silures and Ordovices had suffered no diminution from the Roman arm<- ; *' the frontier of the one, now tiie count}' ANCIENT P'ISTORY. 'J3 county of Hereford^ (sii)s Mr. Duncomb) met the frontier of tb.e other, Shro^pshire, ou the border of the present county of \\ orcester ; and there pre- sented the nearest, if not tlie only, [)oint of attack, from which Ostorius could make an impression on both nations, or take advantage of circumstances to act against either. This geograpJiical statement has led to a conjecture, that a hr.e of entrenchments, extending on the banks of the river Teme, from the vicinity of Worcester, to the scene of the subsequent battle, was occupied by Caractacus and Ostorius, the former retreating as the latter advanced ; and thus drawing on the Komans to a place advantage- ously formed for defence, and as much as possible detached from any assistance which might be af- forded to them in case of their defeat, or any other emergency. " This line is supposed to have began on Mal- vern Hills, where British and Roman entrenchments are still to be seen. The two next, the one Ro- man tlie other British, occurred, at Whitbourn : they were situated on the opposite sides of a vallev, as if opposed to each other; but the traces of both are now almost obliterated. 1 he fourth is at Thorn- bury, a British post of great stiength, between Bromyard and Leominster. The hfth at Croft, ano- ther very strong Briti.h camp, between Leominster and Wigmore. The sixth is a large Roman en- trenchment, called Brandon: and tiie seventh, which is British, is on Coxwall-Knotl, near Brampton- Bryan. Near Downton, also, on the east of Leint- wardine, is a small entrenchment which was appar- ently thrown up to guard the passage of the leme, at that place ; and was probably connected with the operations supposed to have taken place on the line above mentioned. " Recurring to the proceedings of the Britons, we learn from Tacitus, that, in addition to their na- tural valour, they were now animated by confi- 2 dence -!4 HEREFORDSHIRE. deuce in a leader, whom neither prosperity could unguard, nor a'lversity deject ; and whose fame had far surpassed tlrat of all Ins cotemporaries. Inferior in numbers, but trusting to his own military skill and knowledge of the country, Caractacus deter- mined that the territories of tiie Ordovices should be the scene of his defence ; and the spot, which he finally chose for the struggle, is described by the historian as in all respects discouraging to his ene- mies, and favourable to himself. Where nature had not rendered the eminence inaccessible, iie piled large stones on eacii other in tlie form of a rampart : a stream of a regular depth flowed in his front, and a strong body of troops were stationed on the out- side of his woi ks in battle array. The leaders of the various tribes prepared them for the contest, by exciting their hopes, by intlaming th«'ir resent- nients, and by urgmg every motive, that could ani- mate their valour. Caractacus himself, darting through the ranks, exclaimed, ' Remember, Britons, this day is to decide, wheth'T we shall be slaves or free ! Recollect and imitate the achievements of our ancestors, whose valour expelled Julius Caesar from our coasts, rescued their country from paying tri- bute to foreigners, and saved their wives and their daughters from infamy and violation !' Inflamed by this address, every one shouted applause, and bound themselves by their peculiar oatiis, to conquer or perish. *' Ostorius was staggered by the resolute appear- ance and formidable position of his adversaries ; but his troops eagerly demanded battle, and ex- claimed that Roman valour could surmount every obstacle. Observing, therefore, what points were most proper for the attack, he led on his army, and forded the \ vtr, without difficulty: but, before they could reach the rampart of stone, the Romans suffered sevciely from the darts of the Britons, and success long appeared doubtful. At length forming the NAME AXD ANCIENT HT-TORY. 2j ilie tesludo, or shell, by locking their shields to- gelh;r over their heads, they reached the wall, and making sc'veral breaches in it, brought on a close engagement. Un[>rovided with helmets o^ breast- plalis, the Britons could not withstand the attack, but fell back towards the summit of the hill ; a few desperate eifbrls from this point could not avail them, and victory declared for the Rouians. The wife and daughter of Caractacus were taken on the field of battle ; and iiis brothers surrendered th:cmselves j)risoners ; he himselt escaped into the country of ii'-e Hrigantcs, and claimed the protection of their (jui'tn, Cartismandua ; but dreading the resent- ment of the Romans, which had been recently di- rected against her territories, she was induced to deliver him bound to Ostorius/* Antiquaries and historians have greatly differed re^p<=cting the spot on which this important battle was fought ; according to Camden, it took place on the liigh eminence called Catr-Caradock, in Shrop- siiire, about tliree miles north from the Teme, near the junction of the Jay and the Coin with that river. General Roy, however, in his military antiquities;, originally suggested the real scene of this action to liave been at Coxwall Knoll, which idea is like- wise adopted by Mr. Duncomb, who observes, that the situation, and other circumstances of this emi- nence, strikingly correspond with the account given by the Roman historians. " Coxwall-Knoll (lie continues) is situated in a beautiful valley, near Brampton Bryan ; it is luxu- riantly covered with wood ; one part of it, that to- wards the south, is within the limits of Herefordshire whilst that towards the north is within those of Shropshire. On the top is a very strong entrench- ment, of British construction, and of much greater extent than that at Caer-Caradoc. The access is difficult on all sides ; on the south an artificial ter- race is cut along the brow of the hill in front of the C entrench;nents; 26 HEREFORDSHIRE. entrenchments ; and the river Teme continually va- ries in its depth and impetuosity, according to the proportion ot rain received into its channel from the adjacent hills. Immedlateiy opposite, and at the distance of one mile, with the river between them, is the Roman post of Brandon, a single square work, with four posts, more strong towards Coxwali than in any other part. " In the supposed line of march by Caractacus and Ostorius, the latter would occupy Brandon, "when ilut former had retreated to Coxwali. Thus situated, the formidable situation of the Britons, and the obstacles to be encountered in attacking them, were all within view of the Romans: they demand- ed and were led to the combat: fording the river, they reached the rampart, which probably stood on the artificial terrace described by General Roy, and finally defeated the Britons in the entrenchments above. To these conjectures, which are offered with the utmost deference, it may be opposed, that the Teme near Coxwali is but an inconsiderable river, having a smooth and gravelly bottom, and so little water,' except when flooded from the hills, that troops may march across it in line for two or three miles together. To this it is replied, that all rivers suffer some decrease^ in proportion as the couna-y through which they pass becomes more cultivated; that the words of'i'acitus, " piasfluebat amnis vado incerto,^^ evidently apply to a river subject to frequent variations ; that no difficulties were ex- perienced when the fording took place, " amnenque luiud difjicidter avadit ;" and that probably the Ro- mans exaggerated the obstacles to increase their own reputation." A temporary suspension of the war was produced by the defeat and captivity of Caractacus ; but the determined spirits of the Silures, were, however, not yet subdued ; for, after a short interval of pre- paration, they again took the fiehl, and by their sudden NAME AND ANCIENT KfiSTORY. 27 .uicklen attacks, whenever circumstances afforded a prospect of success, they kept tiie Romans in per- petual alarm ; the were likewise rendered despc" rate by a declaration of Oslorius, that tlie very name of the Silures should be extirpated, as that of the Sigambri had been in Gaul ; so far, however, was the purpose of this general from being accom- plished, that he himself lell a victim to the fatigue and anxiety occasioned by the increased success of the Silurian arms. Neither coercion, nor clemency, during the vari- ous successive proprietorships for upwards of 20 years, were able to reduce the Silures to Roman bondage ; at length, however, th«^ superi r discip- line of the Roman soldiers, aided by the military ta- lents ot'Julius Frontinus, their general, obliged this brave people, after relinquishing to tiie enemy the Forest of Dean, and the present counties of Here- ford and Monnjouth, to retire iiUo the fastnesses of Wales, from whence, offering no farther resistance to the Roman domination, the complete and undis- turbed possession of South Britain was thus insured to tiic conquerors, who inciudi.d Herefordshire in the district named Britannia Secunda. Magyja, now Kenchesler, and Aricvnhun, near Ross, two of tiie prmcipal stations of the Itinerary of An- tonius, together with the post of Bravinum, or Bran- uon, are situated within the limits of this county. The Watling street also enters it on the north from Shropshiie,near Leintwardine, whence, after passing the river Teme, it proceeds to the camp of Brandon, and continuing in a southern direction passes by Wigmore, Mortimer's Cross, Street, Stretford, and Poriway, to Kencliester, from whence, inclining to the south-west, after crossing the river Wye, near the Wear, and passing Kington, I3ore, and Long-^ town, enters Monmouthshire and proceeds to Aber- gavenny, the Gobannium of the Romans: this road is very visible near Madley ; and several entrench* c 2 menti CS lIEREFORDSHlRt, Hients likewise ocxur in diiieient parts of the line . as it crosses Herefordshire. A second Roin;m road enters this county on the south-east from Glouces- tershire, whicli appears to liave connected the sta- tions ot Glfcvum, or Gloucester, Arkonium B/tstiutif, or M^jnmouth,and Burrium, or Usk. A third Ro- man road enters this county from Worcestershire, ■AwA, passing Frome Hill, Stretton-Gransham, or Giandison, Lugg-brid^e, liolmer, and Strettonr Sugvvas, proceeds to R'-nchester ; and to the south of the Herefordshire Beacon, is a fourth ancient road, called the Ridgeway, which extends for seve- ral miles towards Eastnor, in a kind of circular di- rection. The Silures, on the decline of the Roman power, were among the first in attempting to regain that independence which they had been the last in sur- rendering; for, uniting with the other Britons, under the successive commands of Uther Pendragon, and Arthur, they once more displayed their bravery in defending the island from Saxon usu'-pation: their resistance, however, proved unavailing, in conse- quence of tiie numerous hordes of these barbarians, which were continually landing upon our shores, and the internal divisions, that subsisted among the natives; so that the Britons being driven to the mountains of Wales, Herefordshire became incor- porated with the Saxon kingdom of Mercia; this however was not etlected till the Saxon power in this district had arrived at its greatest height, under the renowned Offa, who the better to secure h'S kingdom, which comprehended the greatest part of this county, together. witli considersble portions of Radnorshire, Monmouthshire, and Shropshire, made abroad ditch 100 miles in length, some traces of which are stilt visible; and for still greater secuiity he rt-^moved his court to South-town, now Sutton, about tin-ee miles north-west from Hereford, wlK-re ii^e erected a palace, which he defended by strong entrenchments. RIVERS. 29 entrenchments. The Danes, about the end of the eighth century, obtained d temporary possession of Mercia, but were expelled by Benlhred, the law- ful prince, who after a reign of about 30 years^ \xds himself defeated by these invaders, and deprived of his kingdom ; which was soon afterwards subdued by Alured, king of the West Saxons, who annexed it to his own, and chose as iiis successor Egbert, who having united the various Saxon stotes into one sove- reignty, thus laid the foundation of the glory and pre-eminence of Britain, Herefordshire, however, during the wars wliich occurred, between (he time of the reign of this prince, and the complete subju- gation of Wales, suffered greatly from the different incursions made by the brave descendants of tlie ancient Britons at various periods. POPULATJON, &c. Tiie population of this county consisted, accord- ing to the late returns, of 89,191 inhabitants, viz. 43,9.")5 males,, and 45,283 females, of whom 8,588 were returned as being employed in trades and ma- nutacture, and 31/J61 in agriculture. Hereford-^ shire returns eight members to parliament ; viz. two for the county, two for the city of Hereford, two for Leominster, and two for Weobley. RlVEKS. The princiiial rivers of this county are the W^ye, the Lugg, the Munnow, the Arrow, the Frome, the Teme, and the Leddon. The* \Vi/e, which has been so often celebrated for the extremely picturesque and diversilied scenery which adorns its meandering channel, rises near the summit of the Plinlimmon Hills, in Montgo- nieryshire, and flowing between tiie counties of Brecknock and Hadnor, enters Herefordshire near Clifford Castle, from whence it glides beautifully between orchards, meadows, and cornfields, till it reaches the abrupt and commanding eminence of c 3 I\Iawbeck / 30 HEREFORDSHIRE. /Mawbeck Hill ; and, after passing tiirough tl)e bold archesi of Bredvvardiiie Bridge, it flows on to Here- ford, through a more level but extremely pleasant country. From Hereford to Ross its features, though occasionally assuming a degree of boldness, yet their aspect is more frequently placid; at the latter town, however^ " it resumes the bright- ness and rapidity of its primitive character, as it forms the admired curve whicli the church-yard of Ross commands. The celebrated spire of Ross church, peeping over a noble row of elms, here fronts the ruined castle of Wilton, beneatii the arches of whose bridge the Wye flows through a charming succession of meadows, encircling at last the lofty and well-wooded hill, crov>ned with the majestic fragments of Goodrich Castle, and opposed by the waving eminences of the Forest of Dean. The mighty pile, or peninsula, of S\ mond's Rock succeeds," round which the river flows in a cir- cuit of nearly seven miles ; though the opposite points of the isthmus are only one mile asunder. Shortly afterwards the Wye quits the county, and entering Monmouthshire at the new weir, falls into the Se- vern a little below Chepstow. The barges used on this river, which is navigable to Hereford, are from eighteen to forty tons bur- then ; but either a large or a small supply of water is equally fatal to the navigation. " The latter, (says Mr. Duncomb) is experienced during the greater part of every dry summer, when shoals barely covered with the stream, occur very frequent- ly ; in winter, heavy rains, or snow dissolving on the river's banks, within the county, have the etifect of gradually adding a few inches to the depth ; but when these rush into its channel, from the moun- tains of Brecknock and Radnorshire, they occasion an almost instantaneous overflow, and give it a force which defles all the ordinary means of resistance and RrVF.RS. 31 and controul.* By this impetuosity, consdera- ble quantities of land arc freciucnlly removed from their situations on one side or the other, and new channels are tluis formt.-d in various places ; to this impetuosity is also to be ascribed the want of a suf- ficient number of bridges to render the communica- tion safe and easy between different parts of the county. In the whole extent of the \^^ye tlirough Herefordshire there was only one bridge(at Hereford) till the year 159? ; an act of parliament was then obtained for erecting a second at Wilton ; and since that time two more have been added, the one at Bredwardine, by an act })assed in 1762; and the other at Whitney, by an act passed in 1780. Tliat at Bredwardine, which is built of brick, after sustain- ing some damage by the great flood of 1795, has continued to resist the impetuosity of the river ; but that of Whitney has ah'eady been twice destroyed, and was again renewed on stone piers in tiie year 'I'iie principal fish taken in the Wye, are salmon, which are found in the river at all times, but they are oi.ly in perfection from December to August. Tiieir passage up tiie stream is at present so much obstructed by ''ron works, that unless the water is swelled far above its usual height, they can- not advance. This circumstance and the illegal practice of taking thern in cribs, have rendered them much less plentiful than formerly, when they abounded so much, that it was a common clause in the indentures of children apprenticed at Here- ford, that tliey should not be compelled to eat sal- mon more frequently tlian twice in every week. * The grentcst flood experienced of late years, was occa- sioned by a fall of rain, and tlie nieUing of snow, on the fifth of February, 1795, when the Wye rose 15 feet within 24" hours, and did enormous damage tlirough the whole county, destroying bridges, drowning cattle and sheep, sweeping 6ft timber, &:c. Tlifi 32 HEREFORDSHIRE. The Lngg rises in Radnoisliire, and entering He- refordshire on the north-west side, near Stapleton castle, flows in a south-east direction, and after re- ceiving the Pinsley near Leominster, inclines to the south, when it is increased by the v.'alcrs of the Ar- row and the Frome : and soon after its junction with the latter river, it falls into the Wye, near the Tillage of Mordisford. The country through which this river flows is fine and fertile, though it does not possess the beautiful scenery of the Wye ; like that river, however, it is subject to sudden overflow- ings, and is frequently swelled by partial rains, which give it great rapidity andforce at its junction with the Wye; and whicti have operated to pre- vent its being rendered navigable, though two acts of parliui^nent have been passed for that pur- pose. The Munnoip, which rises on the Herefordshire side of the Hattere'.l Mountains, flows south-east- ward, and being joi.icd near Longtown by the Escle and Oirhron rivulets, which have their springs also jitar the sources of t!ie Alunnow, run southward through a pleasant and sequestred vale ; and after being joined near Alter\nnis by the Hoihney, turns to the north-east, towards Fontrilas, near which place it is increased by the united streams of the Dore and the Worme, which also rise in this coun- ty ; the former at Dorston, and the latter at Alans- /noore. Again turning to the south-east, it forms the boundary between Herefordshire ^and Mon- mouthshire, till it quits the county at Llanrothal, and flowing towards Morimouth falls into the Wye, immediately below that town. 'I'lie ^/V'wt' enters this county from t!;e confines of Radnorshire and Shropshire, a short distance north- west from Brampton-Bryan, and flowing eastward runs into Shropshire near Ludlow, thence bending to the south, it acain enters Herefordshire, which it, iiowever, soon leaves for Worcestershire, where having Rivi.ns. 35 iiaving made a con3i(leial)le circuit, it once more dows on the borders ot this county, ot whicli it be- comes the boundary for a short distan«:f' above and below Whiteborn ; after which it (hscharges itself into the Severn, betwee j Malvern-Chase and Woodberry-Iiill, in \Vurc< stershne. Pearls have occasionally been found in the muscle shells of tins river. The Leaden, or Lcdtlan, has its origin on the east side ot the county, a little above Bosbury, and run- ning to the south, gives name to the town of Led- l)ury ; thence tlowing into Gloucestershire, it falls into the Severn a few miles below Minsterwar. 'i'he Anxnc enUtrs, Herefordshire ircm Radnorshire, and running eastward falls into the Lugg, a little be- low Leominster. 'Ihe Froiue rises near Wolfrelow above Brooiy ard, and taking a southerly course, is joined by tl)*j i.o- iX'-iw near Stretton-Grandison ; whence turning south- west it is united with the Lugg above Mordibturd. Cakals. The Hereford and Gloucester Canal be- gins at Hereford, and crosses the river Lugg, be- low Sutton St. iXlicirael, and Sutton St. Nicholas; %vhence it pursues an easterly couise by West Hide, Cannon-Frome, Munsley ; crosses the river Leadoa below l;osbury, and pursues a southerly course, by Ledbury, Dinnington, to Dimmock ; about two miles below Ltdbury it again crosses to the west side of tiie river Leadon ; from Dimmock it pursues an easterly course for about four miles, and twice crosses tb.e river Leadon, and passes by Pauntley- I'pieadon, Newent (at three miles distance), Rud- ford, and La>sington ; again it crosses the river Lea- don, and a branch of the Severn, lljcnce across Al- ncy-island, and into the Severn, opposite Glouces- ter ; the total length lo Hereford biMng 3i miles live furlongs, with 1:23 foct eight inches lockage. The collateral 34 HEREFORDSHIRE. collateral cut to Newent is three miles long, with a fall of ten feet to the junclion. At the cuiiinience' ment of this canal near Hereford, there is a tunnel of 440 \arcls ; and anotiier about tiie middle of the summit, 1,320 yards in length. By this canal a communication is opened for the collieries in the neighbourhood of Newent, and other tracts of land, possessing large and valuable mines of coal, and with several lime-stone quarries ; and not only the vicinity of Hereford, but the interior of South-Wales is much benefited, as there^ by a continued water carriage, may be had to the several ports of London, Bristol, Liverpool, and Hull, to the great improvement of the value of lands and estates in the county of Hereford, &c. This canal, hcwever, isnotyet completed, though upwards of 100,0001. has already been expended in its forma- tion, but so far as it has been finished its utility has been very considerable. Kington and Leominster Canal. — This ca- nal, which begins at Kington, pursues an easterly- course, and pas-^s by Stanton, Kingsland, where It crosses the river Lugg, and makes a bend to Leo-r minster ; from whence it turns, and passes between Eve and'Berrington, by Oileton, Briinfitld, where it crosses the river Ten.e ; by Little Hereford, Bur- ford, Tcnbury, Kochford, and Knighton, M-h.ere it crosses the river Rea, and proceeds to Lindridge, Low, Pensax, throueii a tunnel to Jones's hole, and by Arley, there falling into the Severn, just above Stourpoft'. The length of this canal is rather more than 45 miles ; and the total lockage is 544 feet, viz. 496 feet fall, and 48 feet rise. On this canal are two tunnels; one near Sousnant, of 1,250 yards; the other at Pensax, of 3,859 yards. Near Tenbury are two collateral cuts for the accommodation of some mills. CIVIL AND ECCLESIASTICAL DIVISIONS. 35 DIVISIONS. Herefordshire is divided into eleven hundreds, viz. Wiguiore, Woolphy, Huntingdon, Strelford, Broxash, Grimsworth, Ewias Lacy, Webtree, Uad- lowe, Wormelow, and Greytree ; tliese are subdi- vided in-to 221 parishes, containing one city, Here- ford, two borough-towns Leominster, and Weoblej', and five other market-towns, viz. Koss, Ledbury, Kington, Bromyard, and Pembridge, and having 17,944 houses. It is included in tlie Oxford cir- cuit, in the province of Canterbury,* and diocese of llereford. \ ( SG ) TOPOGRAPHICAL DKSCRIPl'ION OF Till: COUNTY OF IlKREFOPvD. Journey from dmib to JLijord, through Hereford. COMB is a small village situated ai the north-wes- tern extremity of the county, on the eastern banks of the Lugg. A short distance lo the soutli of this village en tiie v-veslern extremity ot Wapler Hill, are the vestiges of an extensive canij) The slope of the eminence is linely covered wiih wood, and its northern extremity i-s washed by a small river, \vii':rh forms one of tiie sources of the above river, 'iiie banks and ditches (which are liigh and very deep) are tive-lc!dj excepting on one side, wliere the steepness of the ascent is a suiiicitnt security. At the village of Titley, situated about two miles to the south of Comb, was formerly a Prior}*, subordinate to the Abbey of Tyrone in F'ri^nce. On the suppression of the /''lieii Prioiies in the reign of Henry the Fifth, it was given to the c^-Uege at Win- chester, and still belongs to that establishment. About a mile to tiie west of litley, is Eyvvood, the principal seat of Edward Harley, Earl of Ox- ford, and Earl Mortimer, who possesses a very con- siderable extent of landed properly in the north- western part of this county. Ttie grounds at Eywood display a great diversity of scenery, and are ornamented with some tine plantations. On leaving Comb, we proceed in a south-easterly direction, and at the distance of live miles and a half pass through the village of Pembridge, formerly a market-town, and giving name to the ancient and lionourjfble family of Pembridge or Brydges, ances- tors of the Lord Chandos. This place was part of the estate of the Mortimers, who procured the privilege of a market, and Henry the First granted I it a cl;arler of liberties : the market lias been long I discontiiiued ; it ha^, hov. ever, a smuU woollen ma-" nufactury, TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 7 nufactory, and two annual fairs on the 12th of May and 22nd of November ; it is situated 130 miles from London, and contains 304 houses and 10S6 inhabitants, of whom 319 were relurned as be- ing employed in agriculture. At the distance of about 14 miles from Pem- bridge, after passing through the villages of AVest- tlope, we arrive at an angle of the road, distin- guished by tlie remains of a stone cross, called the White Cross ; the base of which consists of an hex- agonal fligiit ot seven steps, measuring ten feet each in length, but which gradually decrease with flie ascent. I'he first and only remaining stage of the shaft is likewise hexagonal, the height of which is six feet, and the breadth of each face two feet, ex- clusive of a pillar bx?tween each. In these sides are as many niches, containing shields, bearing a lion rampant; the niches are under pointed arches, sup- ported on small columns. AboVe is an embattled parapet, with the mouldings, and base of a second division of the shaft ; this, however, with all the up- per part has been long destroyed : the entire height, in its present state, is 15 feet. Uhe origin of this cross, according to tradition, is ascribed to Bishop Canldupe, who is said to have- been returning towards tieretord, from liis palace at Sugwas, when the bells of his cathedr.-il began ring- ing, v,'ilhout any human agency, and that in com- memoration of such a miraculous event, he erected this cross, on the spot wlierethe sounds had first at- tracted his notice. Mr. Duncomb has, however, given a much more probable reason for ita construc- tion. In the year 1347, he observes, *' an infectious disorder ravaged the whole county of Hereford, and as usual, displayed the greatest malignity lu the places most numerously inhabited ; tiiis created a necessity of removing the markets from Hereford, and the spot of waste ground, on which the cro^s HOW stands^ was applied to that purpose, In me- D n\ar/ 38 KEREFORDSHIltL. mory of this erent. Dr. Lewis Charlton, who was consecraled bishop of Hereford a few years after- wards^ caused this cross to be erected ; the lion rampant was the armorial bearing of this prelate, and is repeated on his monument in the cathedral, with a similarity which so strictly pervades the whole architecture ot the tomb and the cross, as to afford the strongest presumption that this was the real origin of the cross described.'* One mile beyond White Cross, we arrive at HEREFORD, A city of great antiquity, though the precise era of its origin has not been ascertained. It is supposed by Camden to have arisen when the Saxon Heptar- chy was at its height, though he immedialely after- wards assigns the reign of Edward the elder as the time of its foundation. It nuvst, however, have been in existence previous to the year 6/6 or 680 ; for during the reign of Peada, king of Mercia, who had embraced Curistianity, a synod was held here for the purpose of erecting a new see in Mercia, in consequence of which Futta was chosen the tirst bishop of Hereford ; this circumstance clearly •rtviiices that Hereiord must have been a place of some importance at that time ; and the proljability is, that it oriaUiated soon aiter the departure of the Romans, when Magna Castra,or Kenches.ter, the near- est Roman stati-ja, was deserted. This citv, however, whatever was its origin, be- came the capital of the Mercan kingdom, and had a magniiicent church, accj-ding to Polyd re Virgil, as early as tiie reign of Offa, and even previous to the present cathedral being foumled by that sove- reign, in expiation of the murder of Ethelbert, king of the East Ani;les. The erection of this edifice, toge- ther with the various gifts made by the multitude thai came to visit the tomb uf Ethelbert, who was deemed a martyr, and worshiped as^ a saint, con- tributed TOPOGRAPHICAL DtSCRIPTION. 39 tribiited not a little to the importance of Hereford. Its progress was equally llou fishing under the West tSaxon kings ; and about ii.f lime of A helstan, the city v.as inclosed with walls, as a securuy on those sides where it was not defended by the Wye ; these walls, wiiich now imperfccily remaiu, although they have been improved and stiengthened at various periods, probably siand (says Mr. Duncomb) on the origmal foundations, i ney are 1800 yards in ex- tent, and inclose (he city on the east, north, and west sides ; towards the south, it has the natural defence of the Wye, and also jO yards ot wail trom the western angle 'towards the bridge: th:^ vvnole of this side is 530 yards. The nates were six in num- ber, viz. Wye-Bridge Gate, which stood at the south end of the bridge ; Friar's Gate, wliich was situated on the south-west ; Eigne Gate, on the west ; Wide Maish Gate, on the nortu ; Bishop's Gate, on the north-east ; and St. Andrew's, since called St, Owen's, on tlie south-east. Fiiteen em- battled to^vers pjojected from tiie walls, having em- bra.-sures in the swape of crosses, in the centre ana sides, for observation, and the discharge of ar- rows. The distances between these towers varied from 75 to 125 yards: the height of the wall, mea- suring on the outside, was 16 feet : that of the tow- srs, 34. Thus the whole circumference of the city, enclosed by the walls and river, was 2350 yards. Speed, in his history, states the wall only to be 1500 paces in extent ; and Leland very correctly calls it a goodly mile. The latter writer also observes, that '• these walles and gales be right well maintamed by the burgesses of the town ;" ana nutices aUo the additional security derived fro i": *' a little brooi^e that Cometh a hve miles by west, and circuith (as it still continues to do) the ditciics of the walles, ubi. non cltj'enditor V(ii;a, and goetn down, leaving the catle on the right hand, and thence dreiving two milles P '-9 fpF 40 HKREFORDSHIRE. for corne, goeth into Wye a flyte shotte beneath Wye Bridge, and liard benealU the casiles." About the middle of the eleventh century, during the reign of Edwarc the Confessor, Griffith, a sove- reign of Wales, after conquering the English forces under the command of Kanulph, the governor of Hereford, who had been induced to quit the city and give battle to theWelsh, entered Hereford, which immediately became a scene of pillage and slaugh- ter. 'J'he principal inhabitants Hed to the cathedral for security; but the entrance being forced, a dread- ful carnage ensued, and tiie church, pillaged of its riches, and being set on fire, the flames communi- cated to the city, the greatest part of which was re- duced to ashes; and, according to the Welsh chro- nicles, nearly 500 of Earl Ratuiiph's men were slain; and the " Britons returned home with many wor- thy prisoners, great triumph, and rich spoils, leaving nothing in the town but blood and ashes, and the -walls razed to the ground." Edward, who was then at Gloucester, immedi- ately collected, an army, the command of which he entrusted to Harold, son of Earl Godwin, who, ad- vancing into Wales, obliged the late successful in- vaders to sue for peace. Harold, soon afterwards returning to Hereford, fortihed it, according to Flo- riacensis, witli '* a broad and high rampire." Some writers also ascribe the rebuilding of its walls and for- liiications to Harold, who is likewise said to have erected the castle; but as writers have differed re- spectmg ti\e origin of this castle, we shall insert the following extract from Mr. Duncomb's collections, whose observations respecting it are particularly pertinent, " When Harold rebuilt the walls, it seems highly probable that he founded the castle for the further defence of the town ; yet on this point wri- ters are not fully agreed ; it is, however, well known, that the policy of Edward the Confessor in- fluced him, in the early part of his reign, to fortify strongly iOFOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION:. 41 strongly places of consequence, and csj)eciariy those most accessible or advantageous to his enemies, which was precisely the situation of Hereford, from Us vii iuity to Wales. Eduardus, inito principatu, cuiicfn i>i.l.'ir repub/icd a prima faciendn txisliinanus, loca cmniii f)7-asldus, rnnnire^ 4t. But Graiion writes * that Edward the Elder, son of Alured, in the eighth year of his reign (908) built a strong castle at Here- ford ;' and a manuscript in the Haiieian libFvary int.ntions, from Holinshed, that * Griftith, king of Wales, wasted a great part of Kerpfordshire ; agai;ist wl)oni the men or tliaL <,'oiinty, and Normaiv^, out of the castle of Hereford, went; but Griftlih obtained the victory, slaying many, and toke a great prey.* Sprott's ciironicle also records, Edwardus Rex. . . . Cnstrian Herefordice . . . et Villain de Wj/ggemorc coiididit . . . cut succcssit Ef/ielstartus." " To these accounts it is objected, that had a re- gular castle existed when Algar and Grytifx th got possession of Hereford, Leland would hardly iiave represented that it was ' scant fortified' on that occa- sii>n ; n )r would tiie Welsh chroniclers- have omitted to notice what would iiave added so much t) the fame of their heroe.s, as tiie reduction of a conside- able castle. Gamden observes, that ■ the Normans afterwards (1. e. after the concjut-sl) buili on the east side of the church, on the W>e, a large strong cas- tle, wriich some ascribe to earl Milo.' Hume also ascribes the building to the Norman Conqueror; others attribute it lo Wdliam Fitz-Osborne, tir^t earl of Hereford, after the concpiest. Leland writes, * some think that Heraldus began this castle after he had conquered th.e rebellion of the Welslimen in King Edward the Confessor's tiine. Some twink that the Laceys, Earls of Hereford, were the gr«cat makers of it ; and tiie IJoriuns, Earls of Hereford.' Dr. Stukeley states, that the castle was a noble work, built by one of the Edwards before tiie conquest; and Giraldus Caiwbrensis, as quoted by Lambarde, o 3 attiibulei 42 HEREFOBDSHIRE. attributes the building to * Randal Poer, when Shyrite of the shyre/ but does not add the date. " Now Camden's idea, that Earl Milo was tiie founder, is obviously incorrect ; tor the castle stooVl SI siege some years before Miio was Earl of iie-v ford. Leland's report of the Lacys is equally \ groundless, as none of that family appear to have ^ been Earls of Herelord at any period. The other accounts are, perhaps, best reconciled, by suppo-i- sing that some rude fortiiications, con)posed simply of earth, and thrown up after the Ikitisli mode, might have existed before the time of liarold, and might even have acquired the appellation of a castle; that on their site, Karoid founded a regular work of stone, which his death, in lObti, prevented his finish- incr; and that the earls, and some of the sherifis of Hereford, afterv/ards completed his design. " The castle (continues our author) occupied a part of the south and east sides of the city, having the river Wye on the south, and being delended by a large and deep moat on the north and east sides, to the angle of which the wall of the city e.xtended. This situation wa- well calculated for the defence of the catliedral, which nearly adjoined it on the west; and probably that circumsiance f>ccasioned a preference to this particular spot, which does not seem well adapted to tlie general defence of the town. " The castle comprised two wards ; the keep was in the smaller, towards the west, having a strong tower on the top, and a dimgeon underneath. Le- ]and describes the kee|) to have been, ' high, and very strong, having in the outer wail, ten semicircu- lar "towers, and one great tov^er within.' Dr. Stukeley termed it, a ' very lofty artuicial keep, walled for- merly at top, and having a wail in it faced witli good stone.' In the eastern ward were the gate- bouse ; a chapel dedicated to St. Cuthbert, part Viiereof (says Leland) is * opere circular! ;' a mil a«4 TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 43 and two dwelling houses, perhaps iniendcd origi- nally for the accoiiiinodation et the governor and his attendants. * Ther is a fay re and plentiful spring of water (continues Leland) within the castle ; and that and the piece of liie brooke coining out of the ditch, did drive a mill within the castle.' In every direction it must have been capable of very consi- derable defence against tlie modes of attack then known: on the south, the ground along the eastern \viird, tell almost perpendicularly seven yards to tlie river : on the east tlie works stood on earth thrown up five yards, witli a deep and broad moat in fr(mt, wliich were all continued on the north, until tht^y reached the wall, which inclosed the keep. The dijnensions of the greater or eastern ward, measuring on the site of the walls, were nearly as follow: on the south, 175 yards ; on the west iOO; on the north 17j; and on the east 190. Tiie smaller, or western ward, was nearly 100 yards in extent, oi> the south and east sides : towards the north and west were three sides, each measuring 65 yards. * There came also an arme of a brooke that runneth through a great piece of the town dyke, by an arche made in the town wall into the castle dike, and so compassing half the castle (that is .the east and the north sides of tlie larger court) went into Wye ; so that with the principall arme of this brooke, and with the arme of it going through the castle dike, and with the maine stream ot Wye river, the whole castle was environed ; but now the arme of the brooke cometh not through the castle, yet it might soon be returned thither. The second ward, where the dungeon is, was also environed with water ; for a piece of the water, that came through the dike, was turned that way.' The entrance was on the north side of the eastern ward, over a great bridge of stone archy had passed the port, coming back from his company, was unfoitunately siaine by a shot from the enemy. *' About the Knh they discover the face of their battery against Frien Gate with five sevarall gun- ports ; from hence they played four cannone jointly at our walls, and made a breach, which was instant- ly made up ; they do the like on the other side, with the like successe. ** T!ie 1 7th, a notable sally was made at St. Owen's Church with great execution, and divers prisoners taken, with tiie losse of only one n)an ; at the same time little boys strived which should 'irst carry torches and faggnts to fire their works, which was |)erformed to some purpose ; and so it was at the same sally-port once before, though with a fewer number ; TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION'. jl :niriber ; and therefore with lesse execution. And . may not forget to acquaint your lordship with those ntier tourc sallies, made by us al the castle to good eJilect, and what emulalion there was between the souldiers and citizens, wliich should be most en- gaged in them. •* Now tlieir losse of prisoners, slaugiitcr of men, and dishonour of being beaten out ot their workes, ^^iiicli the} found ready to llanie about tluir ears, if they returned pre-^ently into them, had so kindled their indignation, tiia' presently they raised batteries ai;ain»l Su Owen's Church, and plaied hercely at it but to little purpose, which they so easily perceived, tiiat. from the 20th until the cUh there was a great culnie on all sides; we as willing to provide our- selves, and preserve our ainmun.tion from a storme, as they could be industrious and malici-us to bring it upon us. Yet I cannot say either side was idle; for tiu-y ^jlied their mine at St. Owen's and prepared for scaling ; w^- countermined, implo}ed our boyes by day and nigiit to sleale out and fire their worlcs, securing their retreat by nm^ketiers upon the wall; and what our rire could not perfect, though it, burnt far, and suff icated some of their miners, our water did, breakir.g in upon them, and drowning tliat which ti e liie had not consumed ; and this saved us the pa.nes of pursuing .a mine,- winch we had sunk on purpose to render theirs in tliat place ineffec- tual. " The 29th, Leven, a mercifuii generall, assayes the town by hiS Idst oiiCr of honourable conditions to surrender ; but ne found us still unrelenting, the terror of his cannon making no impression at al! upon our spirits, though tiie bullets discharged from tht^m i ad done so mucij on our wails: this, thoui;h some of tneir commanders were remlsse and coole at the debate^ and snaie contradictory, drives their greatest spirits into a pas>iunate resolution of storm- ing; and to that purp se, August 31st and Septem- E 2 bcr 52 HEREFORDSHIRE. ber 1st, they prepare ladders, hurdles, and other ac- commodations for advancing their designe, and se- curing their persons in the attempt, anc^. plaide very hot with their cannun upon Bysters-Gate, and the half-moon next St. Owen^s Gate, inlenviiing the morn- ing after to fall on, presuming, as iiity boasted, that, * after they had rung,us this passing peale, they should presently force the garrison to give up her loyal ghost.* But the same night, his majesty advancing from Worcester, gave them a very hot alarum ; and drawmg a little nearer to us, like the sunne to the meridian, the Scottish miste beganne to disperse, and the next morning vanished out of sight. ** I may not forget one remarkable piece of divine providence, that God sent us singular men of all pro- fessions, very usefull nf 1 necessary to us in this dis- tresse, and so accidentally to us, ^s if they had been on purpose let dewn from heaven to serve our pre- sent and emergent occo^ion.-: ; such as skilfull mi- ners, excellent cannoneers, one whereof spent but one shot in vain througaout the whole siege ; an ex- pert carpenter, the only man in all the country to make mills, without whrni we had been much dis- furnisht of our meai»es to make powder (after our powder mill was burnt), or grind corne. That pro- vidence !hat brought Lhe^e to us, at last drove our enemies from us, after the destruction of foure or five mines, the expence of three hundred cannon shot, besides other ammunition s^ ent w'th muskets, and the losse, by their confession, of 1200, and as, the country says, 2000 men : we in all, not losing abov(' 21, by all casualties whatsoever." 'I he entrenchments, that were thrown up by the Scots, dur'ng this siege, are still visible on dilferent sides of the town. Notwithstanding this success, Hereford continued but a short time in possession of the royalists, it being soon atter taken by a detachment of parlia- jnentary troops, under the command of Colonel Birch. TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 53 Eircli, Colonel Morgan, and Captain Silas Taylor, mIio are said to iiavc obtained it by the following stratagem. Tne country people having been simi- nioned by the governor of Hereford to repair to the City, tor the purpose of asSiStinpj ar.d strengthening the walls and fortifications, which had been greatly damaged during the siege by the Scotch arn^.y, and sjjnie of the warrants issued on this occasion, having been inicrcepttd, Colonel Birch hired six men, put tiieni in the form of labourers, with a constable with them, with a warrant to bring these men to work in the town ; in the nitiht he lodged them within three quarters musket-shot of the town, and loO musqueteers near mem ; and himscli with the foot, and C(-lonfcl Moigan with tlie horse, coming up in the nigiit alter theju, cut off all intelligence from the town, and thus prevented any discovery. In the morning, upon letting down the draw-bridge, the six countrymen, and the constable, went with their pick axes and S|)ades to the br;dge ; but on the guard beginning to examine them, the country- men killed three of them, and kept the rest in p'lay till the musqueteers and the main body came up, when they entered the town, with small loss, and be- came uiasttM-s of It. Soon alter the Restoration, the bravery which the inhabitants of thi-, city had displayed in resisting the Scotch, wa> rewarded by a new charter, and an augmentation of arms, with the motto ** iNVicTiR FiDLLiTAirs Prj^emium." Siuce this period no event of disMnguished historical celebrity has occurred re- spectmg this city. Herefsird, as before observed, was formerly sur- rounded by a wall, and deep ditch, and defended by the above mentioned castle, which, as well as a great part of the wall, and tiiree of the gates, are demolished. The streets, are in general wide, and the buildings, within the space of a few jears, have been greatly improved ; and as the city stands on a E 3 gravelly 54 HEREFORDSHIRE. gravelly soil, the air is consequently salubrious, and very favourable to longevity. Fhe most conspicuous among the public build- ing'^ of this city is ihe Cathedral, which, as already mentioned, owes its origin to the murder of Ethel- bert, king of the East Angles, by the Mercian king Oifa, whose vaiuabledonations to the original church, which was dedicated to bt. Mary, and whicii pre- viously occupied the same site, has frequently occa- sioned him to be considered as tiie founder of the i^ew cathedral, which was erected about the year S25, by Milefrid, a provincial governor under Egbert. The following are the circumstances attending tiie murder of Ethelbert, as related by ancient his- torians. — The principles of Olfa having been cor- rupted by the possession of wealth and dominion, he invited Ethelbert to his palace at Sutton Walls, nbout three miles north-east from Hereford, under pretence of giving him his daughter in marriage ; but on his arrival Quendreda, the wife of Offa, im- pel ied by the ambition of jn-ocuring a new kingdom for her family, obtained the consent of her husband to violate all tiie ties of honour and hospitality, by pultiiig tlieir unfoitunate guest to death, which was immediatt ly executed by some partiz.ius in the ser- vice of the queen, tlis body was (irst privately in- terred at Marden, but it was soon atterwards re- moved by Offa, to the Church at Hereford, where he erected a magnilicent tomb to his memory. ilie murdered prince, who had (while living) been considered as possessing various eminent qua- lilications, was after his death, regarded as a saint, and many miraculous events were alihrmed to have occurred at tlie place of his interment. Milefrid, being inf'uced to encjuire into the truth of these re- ])uted miracles, and the result of his investigation proving satisfactory, he determined to erect a new- church of st(;ne on the site of the former, in honour wj 5t. JLUielbert, and as the ample grants nuide by Milefrid TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRlPTIOy. 55 Milefred were not only augmentod by the revenues arising from the donations of Olfa, but still farther increased by the numerous offerings made by the pilgrims , who fiocked in multitudes to ihe shrine of the murdered king, the work was soon completed, but no description of it is supposed to exist ; for within less than 200 years it appears to have wholly fallen to decay ; it was however rebuilt by the mu- mhcence of Bishop Atheistan, who was appointed to this see in the year 1012, over which he presided till the time of his decease in [Obt) ; in which year th.e cathedral itself was destroyed by lire, during the hostile incursion of the Welsh under Gryifyth, and the Earl of Chester, and remained in ruins till the succession of Robert, surnamed Lozing, in the year 1079, when that bishop began the present edi- lice, on the model of the Churcii of Aken, now Aix- la Chapelle, in Germany, but Lozing, dying in the year 10y3 ; and leaving the cathedral unfinished, his design was afterwards completed by Bishop Kay- nelm, who was appointed to this see about the year 10^)6, and who is recorded in the Calendar of Obits*, to be the founder of this church, prol)ably from the great extent of the work erected during his prelacy. This venerable structure, has however, been greatly encreased and beautiiied by several of the bishops since its erection, and the last altera- tions of any considerable importance are of a very recent date, having been effected since the year 17SG, when the tower over the west front gave way, ai)d falling to the ground destroyed all the parts im- mediately beneath it, together with the adjoining parts of the nave. The west end has since been rebuilt, and the whole cathedral repaired under the direction of Mr. Wyatt. The cathedral 'destroyed by Gryffyth is sup- posed to have extended beyond the Imes of the * * 5 Kal. Oct. obitus Henclmi episcopi, fundatoris ecclesio Saucii Lihelbcrti.' present :>6 HEREl-ORDSHIRE. present building, and particuiarly {owards the south- ij-a'^t ; \\ her*", near the cloisters of the college, Silas Tayh>r, the antiquary, discovered, about the year IOjO, ** such stupendous foundations, such capitals, and pedestals, such well-wrought bases for arches, and such rare engravings, and mouldings of friezes," as left litiUe doubt in his mind, but that they formed parts of the church biiilt by Atheistan, The general plan of the present venerable struc- ture is that cf a cross, with a lesser transept towards the east, and a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary beyond it. At the intersection of the nave and transept, is a square stone tower, which had for- merly a spire of timber, cased with lead, and risint^ 92 feet in height abeve the battlements, but this was pulled dovai, during the late repairs, in order to relieve ihc. arches of the tower from so much of the superincumbent weight. Tiiough the greater tran- sept is not uniform, its north end being larger than the south, yet an additional building, originally employed as the treasury, but now used as the chapter-house, gives its appeaiance an air of sym- metry. The exterior parts of the present edifice are very dissiuiilar in appearance, particularly since the re- cent construction of the west front, the architecture of which is extremely incongruous to the style, which it pretends to imitate. *' Whatever was the cause (sa\s a modern writer) of tliis departure from the ancient character of the building, whether it arose from the inadequacy of tiie funds, or from the want of skill in the architect, its effects are certainly to be lamented, inasmuch as they detract greatly from the sublimity of the original design. The great door, as it now appears, can hardly be compared to any thing else than a very illiormed niche, with an obtuse arch, bounded by two buttresses, and sur- mounted by battlements ; the great window is in the high-pointed styk^; and the centre terminates wit!) TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 57 "\vith battlements, and has an empty niche. Besides the buttresses above-meiitionecl, the facade has two live-sided and two common buttresses. The niches over the side doors are paltry in the extreme : the more beautilul front, whose place has been usurped, is described by Mr. Di;ncon^.b nearly as toUows : — ** The original west front was carried on in the Saxon style, as high' as the roof of the nave in the centre, and of the aisles on the sides. At the west entrance several series of small Saxon colunms, with circular arches intersecting each other, extended horizon- tally over the whole facade, and were divided from each other by lines or mouldings, variously adorned. Under the first or lowest series of arches, the billet ornament prevailed ; under the second, the embat- tled frette ; under the third, the nail-head ; and un- der the fourth, the zig-zag : the bases, shafts, capi- tals, ai^.d most of the arches, were plain ; but some of the last were distinguished by the zig-zag, and others had the nail head ornament, both of which decorated other parts of this front. The entrance was under a recessed circular arch, supported by- five plain pillars on each side, and over the door and side aisles mosaic patterns prevailed in the sculpture. On the centre of this front a tower was afterwards constructed in the pointed style : it was raised on long and irregular shafts, aukwardly pro- jecting from the inside of the original walls of the nave, at^brding an inadequate support, and proving, by their construction, that the tower itself formed no part of the original building or design. The cen- tral window, which was greatly enlarged, and al- tered into the pointed ibim, in the beginning of the reign of Henry YI. was divided horizontally into three parts, by stone transoms ; and each was again divided perpendicularly, by muUions, into six lights, terminating above in trefoil arches. Over the point of the arch, was a human face, with foliage expand- ing on each side in the term of wings; this served as 5S HEREFORDSHIRE. as a corbel to a small ornamented colvimn, which rose to the parapet of the tower : on tiie sides of the window, under ciiiquefoil arches were effiiiies, as large as liie, of bt, Paul and Bishop Cantipule, to- wards the north, and of St. Peter and King ElUel- bert, towards the south : under the feet of each a quartrefoil was sculptured over a trefoil arch ; and long and slender shafts, supporting cinquefoil arches, with pediments and pinnacles, enriched with crock- ets, completed this range of sculptured decoration. Above the pinnacles were two rows of windows, tour windows in each row : tlie upper contained two lights in the lancet form ; the lower was somewhat less simple ; a single muUion divided each into two lights, as before, and reaciiing the head, branched olf to the sides, forming a trefoil arch over each light, from which an upright was carried to the curve of the window on each side, and completed the design. A border, resembling the nail-head, crossed the tower horizontally above, between, and below the windows ; a similar decoration was also carried down the corners of the tower ; above the whole was an embattled parapet, decorated with the trefoil arch. Four square buttresses, v/ith Saxon or- naments, projected Irom the sides of the tower; and the extremities of the front terminated in hexagonal pinnacles, surmounted with crosses ; those in the centre reached above the parapet ; but tliosc on the sides were lower by one third part." This tower, which was 80 feet in breadth, and 130 feet in height, gave several intimations of its approaching fate, and some attempts were made to prevent it ; but tlie de- cay liad become too general to admit of this being eliCected ; the arches entirely gave way on the even- ing of Easter-Monday, in the year 17Stv, and the whole mass instantaneously became a heap of ruins, tn re- building this portion of the cathedral, tlie foundations were removed more inward, in consequence of which the length of the nave was considerably diminished. Nearl)^ TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION- 3 ) Nearly 18,000/. were ex,)ended upon the new works and about 2 000/. more were appropriated to the ge- neral repair of Ihe cenlral tower, and other parts of the fabric ; of these sums 7, (iOO/. were subscribed by the clergy andlaily, and the remaining 13, 000/. were charged on the estates of the church. The exterior of the nave on the north side resem- bles much of its original character ; thougi) the tops of the buttresses, clerestory windows, parapets, &c. are modern : the porch, which forms the grand entrance on this front, was built by Bishop liooth, about the beginning of the l6tli century, and is con- structed with four clu-ters of small pillars, which sup- port as many pointed arches, one leading into the cathedral, and the other three opening into the church yard. The columns, which are six feet in height, rise twelve feet trom the level of their ca- pitals to the crown ov the arch, making it lofty and pointed. The capitals are plain and circular, and divided into several lan»ina?, gradually decreasing in their circumference from that which is uppermost. The three principal mouldings of the arch leading into the church are curiousiy sculptured with the figures of men and animals. I'he roof, which is vaulted with stone, is divided by rii)s into angular compartments, having quatrefoils, and other foli- age, at their intersections. On each side of the north arch is an hexagonal turret, in which are winding staircases, leading to a small chapel over the porci), which projects before the more ancient one of the cathedral, and which is also vaulted with stone, and has ribs divergiiig in three directions from each corner ; tiiose on ihe sides forming the arch of their respective walls, and those in the mid- dle meeting in a centre orb, which is adorned with foliage : similar ribs also meet the orb at right angles from the opposite sides. At the south-east angle of the ancient porch there is a small circular tower, having a winding staircase, which, reaching above 2 the ^0 HEREFORDSHIRE. the parapet, terminates in pediments, ornamented vitii crockets on the sides, and the heads of animals on the top. On the east and west sides of the great transept, the summit of which is embattled, and its sides strengthened by massive buttresses, are two very lofty and narrow windows, of three lights, under sharp pointed arches, with small circular columns and mouldings, above which are corbels; and still higher, on the parapet towards the west, is sculptured a range of trefoil arches. On the east side are like- wise two of the ancient Norman windows, with cir- cular arches ; together with aiiother small and circu- lar tow«-r, formed in the angle, and reaching above the roof of the transept Between this and the lesser transept is a chapel, built by Bishop Stanbury, about the middle of the fifteenth century, and having two windows under obtuse arches, 'llie arches of the windows on the north and east sides of the smaller transept are also of the same form ; and on the northern summit of this transept is a low and plain cress. On the north side of the chapel, which is dedicated to our Lady, but which is now used as a library, are six windows, of the lancet form, supported by small circular pillars, similar to tliose in use at tlie beginning of the thirteenth century. Between these are circles excavated in the wall, in the centres o which are human faces, and other devices ; above these is a series of intersecting arches and columns, the capitals of which are adorned with foliage; and a plain paruptit surmounting the whole. A porch, vaulted and groined with stone, projects on this side, the outer arch of which is pointed, with a plain round moulding over it ; the inner arch is likewise pointed, but it has the zig-zag ornament ; the columns are plain and circular, but the capitals have some foliage on them: this porch leads to the vaults under Iht chapel ; the east end of which has five lancet win- dows. TOPOGRAPHICAL DKSCRI "TION. 61 (lows, those on tlie sides gradually declining in height troin that in the centre ; between each, on the sides, are two niches under trefoil arches, and above are ^culptured lozenges, and other ornaments, and still higher is a scries of pointed trefoil arches, with bat- tlements above and pinnacles at the angles. The windows on the south side are also of the lancet form, but they are divided into two lights by a single mul- lion ; above them is sculptured a range or series of Saxon arches and i)illars, intersecting e^ch other ; and still higher is a sei'ies of similar arches, but without colunnis. From this side projects a small chapel, built by Bishop Audley about the latter end of the fifteenth century. It forms three parts of an liexa- gon ; each part containing two windows under the flat or obtuse arch, which was introduced about that pe- riod: the upper windows are divided into six com- partments, by two muHions and an ornamented tran^ som ; the lower windows are sivaller, and of more simple construction. The parapet, which is embat- tled, has a row of small clustered pillars, sculptured under it, and supporting trefoil arches. At the south end of the smaller transept are two large windows, each of which is divided by muUions into four principal lights, with cinquefoil arches, the spaces above terminating in a trefoil in the centre, and another on each side. The east windows consist each of four lights, under trefoil arches, and on the summit towards the south is a small stone cross. I'he south end of the greattransept has one large window, under a liat or obtuse arch, with a second in a cir- cular form above it, including a trefoil. The for- mer is divided into six long narrow lights, under cinquefoil arches, and the head similarly divided into twelve parts, but the courses of the stone about it plainly shew this form to have been an alteration from the original window, and the same is also ob- servable in a more pointed window towards the west: this side has likewise a smaller window under F an ()2 Herefordshire an obtuse arch, containing three principal lights, uhich are subdivided by transoms, each light termi- nating by a cinCjUefoil arch. Tiie principal windows on the south side of the nave are seven in number^ having strong projecting buttresses between them ; they are similar to those on the north side, consist- ing of four lights under trefoil arches, the head hav- ing a cincjuefoil in the centre, with two trefoils un- der it ; above are corbels, representing roses, foli- age, and heads of men and animals. 1 he clerestory windows, which form p^irt of the new work of the nave, are designed to imitate the former, being also under pointed arches, with corbels above. The great or ct-ntral tower, wiiich has lost much of its primitive character, by modern reparations, in its original state was massive and embattled, the the whole being richly siudded over wiih the nail- head ornan:;ent, and farther distinguished by a round moulding, triangular frette, zig-zag, and other ap- propriate decorations in the Saxon style. The dispo- sition, liowevev, of these ornaments, were in con-' formity to the pointed style; whilst each side of the to'ver contained two ranges of lights, four in each range, and in the lancet form. On the spire (which has already been mentioned as having stood upon this tower) being taken down during the late re- pairs, among otlier alterations, the battlements were raised higher, and pinnacles and crockets placed at the angles ; and by flattening or reducing to an ob- tuse angle the roofs of the nave anrl transepts, an effect of additional height was given to the tower itself. Tliough the former venerable appearance of the interior of this catliedral has been greatly destroyed by recent alterations, and by the removal of various sepulciiral monuments, painted glass, &c. yet it may still be considered as very interesting. The nave is separated from the aisles by a double row of massive columns, which sustain circular arches, curiously TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 63 curiously decorated with mouldii>gs, of zig-zag, nail- lead, lozenges, interwoven twigs, and other orna- ments ; most ot the capitals are plainly sciilptursed, . excej)t those nearest to the choir, which display some well-executed foliage. The arch which adjoins the south side of the choir, has, however been alter- ed from its original form, and stripped ot its orna- ments ; those arches also nearest the west door have been rebuilt in a plain manner, since the fall of the west end. (Jver the arches is a range of arcades, under pointed arches, which are sustained on small clustered columns. The whole roof is vaulted and joined with stone, and divided by ribs into com- partments of various forms, most of them being adorned with human heads and foliage. The en- trance into the south end of the great transept is un- der a low aiKi pointed arch, \vhich formerly reached almost to the ceiling, butwhichhas been partly filled up. Over the door is a niche and pedestal, and somewhat lower, on each side, is a smaller pedestal. The north end of the great transept, called St. Catherine's Aisle, is now used as the parochial church of St. John the Baptist. On the east it is di- vided from a smaller aisle by two arches on smaller clustered columns, having plain capitals on the side pillars, with a kind of volute to those in the centre ; these arches are ornamented with ribbed mouldings, in various patterns. Above is a range of arcades, under trefoil arches of elegant workmanship; each arcade is divided by small columns, clustered and circular, into three open compartments, the head of every arcn being ornamented with three quartrefoils in circ'cs, and tiie mouldings corresponding with tijose of the arches. Between the outer mouldings of the several arches the wall is well sculptured in a Mosaic pattern, representing four leaves expanded - in each square. The opposite or west wall is less de- corated : it contains, hov.evtr, a handsome circular arch, decorated with a double row of zig-zag, rest* f 2 ■ ipg 04 IfERFrORDSHlRF., ing on circular columns with square capitals. Pre- viuus to the late alteiations tiie windows of the nave were ornamented with the arms of various noble fa- milieSj &c, in painted glass. The nave is terminated by a plain screen, througli which is the entrance to the clioir, under a pointed arch ; above which is a large and well loned organ, a noble circular arch extending over it, which sup- ports the west side of the tower : this arch is de- corated with zig-z ig and nail-head ornaments. The choir is lofty and Vvcll proportioned, and contains 50 stalls, with ornamental canopies in the pointed st\ le ; these, though composed of wood, are painted of a stone colour, and under the seats are carved vari- ous grotesque and ludicrous devices and figures. On the sides of the altar, above the oak wainscot- ting, are rich open circular arches, with others still higher in the pointed style. The altar, which has a sumptuous and elegant appearance, is approached by a flight of seven steps. In the passage or aisle, on the north side of the choir, is the entrance to the chapel built by Bishop Stanbury, the roof of which is vaulted, and adorned with sculptured niches, cinquefoils, and otiier de- vices. I'he walls are also ornamented with some well- executed foliage, and on the north and west sides they are likewise decorated with shields, some of them allusive to scriptural subjects, and others dis- playing the arms of the see and deanery of Here- ford, &c. Under the second window of the south aisle, is a curious and very ancient font, which, says Mr. Dunccmb, " was recently brought fiom anotlier part of the church : tiie diameter is nearly tlireti feet, and the sides four inches in tlnckness, leaving a vacuity sutliciently large tor the inmiersion of in- fants. On the outside are represented, m relief, the twelve apostles, in as many niche% under Saxon arches, studded with the uaii-hcad ornament, and supported TOPOnRAPHICAI. DESCRIPTIOxV. 6:5 tiupportrd on pillars with foliated capitals, and fur-- ther ornamented with the sijiral band, zig-zag, and other corresponding decorations. Over the figures of the apostles, which are 15 inches in height, and much mutilated, is a broad band encircling the whole, marked in reliv-f with a series of ornamenr, resembling the letter T, alternately inverted: the whole is of common stone, and supported on the backs of four sea lions." The Chapel of our Lady, which forms the Eastern termination of the Cathedral, is now used as the Li- brary, ar,d contains a valuable collection of books and manuscripts, most of which relates to ecclesias- tical history ; but one of the greatest curiosities is an ancient map of the world, wh.ich was discovered under a pile of Inmber some years ago, it is illumi- jiated with gilt Saxon letters, and the different plnc«^5 appear to be marked by anunals, houses, &:c. but the full dt sign caimot be traced, the whole be- ing so thickly covered with dirt, it is hxed within a frame, ornamented by foliage in the pointed style, and had originally shutters to preserve it from in- jury. The windows in this part of the building are In the lanc'et form, and are separated from each other by receding clusters of small piliars, supporting pointed arches, and richly ornamented with foliage and single heaves, in open work of great elegance and liglitness. This chapel, says Mr. Gough, was probably erected by the lady, whose tomb is in its north wall ; whose husband, as appears by the arm.s, was a Bohun, though not an Earl of Hereford. Tlie an- cient painting under the arch shews the lady in a nun's V(ril as on the tomb, with a church in her hand, pointing to a chapel at its east end, which she pre- sents to the Virgin on her throne ; the secular priests (of Hereford no doubt) are following her. The effigies of the husband, which lie on an adjoining tomb, represent him in close armour, with the hands F 3 clasppd 66 HEREFORDSHIRE. clasped on the breast, and a dog at his feet. Over him is a stone canopy, richly sculptured in the pointed style ; and in the front of the canopy are two human figures sitting, one holding a globe and a scroll, and the otlier with the hands clasped as in prayer. Beneath this chapel is a vault, or crypt, \yhich, from its having been made a place of depo- sit tor the liunian bones whicli were disturbed in the repairs of the cathedral, has of late years acquired the name of Golgol/ia. From this chapel is an entrance into Bishop Audley's Chapel, which has a vaulted roof, groined with stone, and divided by small ribs into various compartments ; the ground of which is painted blue, and tiie ribs red, with gilt edges. In the cen- tre orb is a represer.tation of the Virgin Mary, gilt and surrounded with a glory of the same ; the others are decorated with foliage, and various appropriate ornaments. The Gothic screen, which separates this chapel from the library, is painted and gilt, to correspond with the ceiling ; and on it nineteen saints and religious persons are represented, placed in compartments or niches under canopies, the whole being well wrought in stone, and riclily painted in various colours. I'hough many of the se|)ulchral memorials in tliis structure were defaced, and swept away, at the Re- formation, and others denjolished in the time of the Civil Wars, yet those that remain are still numerous ; many are however concealed hy the pews in the north transept, and *' more (says Mr. Duncomb, alluding to the brasses) were accidentally sold amongst the old materials disposed of after the ge- neral repair in 1786 ; tiie last, which in a consitlera- ble degree might have supplied the want of appro- priate decorations in the new part of the church, were fortunately rescued from the furnace by a friend ,of the arts, and are now placed in the collection of Richard Gough, Ksq.'' Among TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. (57 Among those monuments that remain, one of the most celebrated is that to the memory of the bishop Cantilupe, who died in the year 1282, and is said to have been the last Engiisiunan who obtained the iioMour of canonization, wiiicii took place in the year 1310. Ihis tomb, trom the reputed sanctity of Cantiiupe, was visited by pilgrims and travellers from all parts of Europe ; and it is still regarded with veneration by the Catholics, It is composed of free-stone, in the altar form, and is placed under a lo\A' stone canopy, supported by arches, resting on low circular pillars, with square capitals. Kound th« tomb, under cinquefoil niches, are fourteen small full-length effigies of knights in armour, bearing shields. Mailhcw of Westminster relates that 163 miracles were performed at this tomb in a short space of time ; indeed so great was the reputation which he had obtained that the succeeding bishops of Hereford waved their ancient arms, in order to assume the paternal coat of Cantiiupe, which has been continued to the present time. In arches of the wails, in the passage on the east side of the ciioir, are altar-monuments of several bishops, with their efligies episcopally habited, which, says Mr. Grose, Irom the similarity of taste in \vj]ich they are executed, have given rise to a no- tion that they were all set up at one time ; a mo- ment's consideration ofthe great expence, all coming out of one purse, will immediately shew the im- probability of this suggestion ; in all likelihood the form ofthe most ancient served as a model for those succeeding. The faces of all the figures have been shamefully mutilated. Most of the buildings dependant on the cathedral are situated on its south side, where also was formerly a beautiful octagon chapter-house, and a chapel, of very high antiquity. The former was situated a short distance from the end of the great transept. It was eleganlly constructed in the pointed style of architecture. 6S HEREFORDSHIP.E. architecture. The roor was sustained in the centre by a single pillar, finely ornamented with figures and other devices. Beneath every window was a square compartment, containing five niches, in each of which was a well-painted figure, as large as life, repreyenting our Saviour, the apostles, and various saints, kings, bishops, and other personages. The demolition of this structure was commenced during the Civil Wars, v.'hen it was stripped of its coverinr; of lead, to cover the gateway of the castle, in con- sequence of which it fell into ruins, and its remains have lately been taken down by the chapter of Here- ford. The ancient chapel, which stood between the south side of the bishop's cloisters and the palace, "u-as not improbably antecedent to the cathedral as ■well as to the episcopal palace. It ^^as built entirely of stone, not excepting the roof, which was sup- ported by four massive columns rising from the ground, and from which arches turned every way ; ahiive the rcof was a square cupola, terminating py- ramidically. The ground plan, independent of the choir, and the space occupied by the west front, and its deeply recessed portico, formed a perfect square of about 40 feet. It consisted of two chapels, one above the other; the upper one being dedicated (o ^-t. Magdalen, and had several pillars against the walls, formed of entire stones. The lower chapel, which was some steps underground, was dedicated to .^t. Catherine. The principal entrance was oa the est, under a retiring arch, or series of arches, 16 -)■: 18 feet deep, at the outward and inner extremi- ties of which vk-ere coluujns of single stones 10 feet iiigh. This inleu snng specimen of the architecture . i remote ages has been entirely taken down, hav- :.g been returned, by those who examined it under . (.iUiiiission to inspect the ancient chapel, during .:€ prelacy of bibliop f.gerton, as ruinous and useless; TOPOGPvAPHICAL DESCRIPTIOy. 69 in consequence of wliich orders were given for its dt-moiition, though " it was well known (says Mr. Dunconib) at the time, that less than 201. would have put it into as good repair as it had been in during 400 years ;" indeed so strongly were the stones ce- mented together, tiiat after one-third of the chapel had been taken down, the work of destruction was for that time relinquished, on account of the ex- pence, which had even then amounted to upward* of 501. It lias, however, since been entirely de- rnolisiied. The Bishop's Cloisters, which are appropriated to the purposes of sepulture, and distinguished by the name of Our Lady's Arbour, form a communication between the cathedral and the palace, and inclose an area of about 100 feet ; the arches of the windows are obstuse, but the windows themselves are diversi- fied by various ramifications. In the time of Edward the Sixth the west side of these cloisters was de- stroyed, and a grammar-school erected on the site ; but this having become greatly decayed, was taken down, about the year l760; and a large edifice, built partly of brick, and partly of stone, was erect- ed by subscription on the spot, under an engage- ment, that, in addition to the uses of a school, it should be appUed to the triennial meetings of the three choirs of Hereford, Worcester, and Glouces- ter, and to other public occasions, in consequence of whicli it has been termed the Music Room. Tile Bi.^hop's Palace, which is an ancient building, is pleasantly situated at a little distance from the banks of the Wye ; its outward appearance is by no means prejjo3ses-.ing, though many of the apartments are fitted up with elegance : the gardens, which are extensive, occupy a gentle declivity contiguous to the river. The Deanery and Prebendal Houses are situated nearly opposite the north-east angle of the cathe- dral, but displav nothimi remarkable. Ihs 70 HERF.FORDSHIRE. The College, which is a venerable pile of stone building, surrounds a quadrangle of about 100 feet, and is appropriated to the uses of the vicars-choral, and besides the apartments for the vicars, it contains a spacious common-hall, a small chapel, and a li- brary, the two latter are, however, in a state of di- ]apidation ; this college appears to have been erected about tlie time of Bishop Stanbury, previous to which the vicars-choral h.ad their residence in Castle Street. The cathedral-yard, previous to the year 179j, ■was the burial ground for all the parishes in the city, and for many of the adjacent cutpa'rishes ; since which, however, the city parishes have each pro- vided distinct places of interment. The present members of the catliedral of Here- ford are, a bishop, dean, two archdeacons, six resi- dentiary canons, including the dean, a lecturer, a chancellor of the diocese, a chancellor of the ca- thedral, a treasurer, a sub-treasurer, a precentor, 28 prebendaries, a first and second master of the gram- mar-school, a chapter clerk, 12 vicars-choral, being priests, including a custos, an organist, seven cho- risters, a verger, and two sextons : the dean and re- sidentiary canons constitute tlie cliapter. Except eight parishes, whicli form part of t'he diocese oi St, David's, the episcopal jurisdiction ot Hereford ex- tends over the whole county; it also includes a very considerable portion of Shrop^liire, four parishes in Monmouthshire, eight ill Radnorshire, six in Mont- gomeryshire, and twenty-one in Worcestershire. '' In the jurisdiction which prevailed in the city of Hereford (says Mr. Duncomb) the bishops appear to have retained a more than common share of the civil autiiority. Nearly half of the city, together with a considerable portion of the suburbs, form a district entitled the Bis/top's Fee ; within this district the bisiiops have enjoyed very considerable privi- leges, and on particular^ occasions, their authority has TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 71 has altogether superseded that of the civil magis- trale, by extending over theAvhole city. As lords ot this tee, they exercised tlie ant lent rights deno- minated from the Saxon, Infungencthef, and U/J'ange- ncthtf; by which they administered justice within their limits, and committed otlenders to the custody of their own otiicers, in their own peculiar prison, which ■was situated within the walls of the episcopal palace. By Choi, and C/ieanie, or Thcame, they restrained and judged bondmen and villains, with their children, goods, and chattels ; and by Sac and Soke their te- nants was excused from the payment of customary burdens and impositions. They also held an annual fair for the sale of merchandize within their fee ; during its continuance their power extended to all j)arts of the city ; the markets were transferred from the usual places to that appointed by the bishop ; and a porter was sworn at eaclj of the city gates to collect the tolls for his use. A bailiff was annually elected by a jury, together with a serjeant-at-mace, leatiier-searchers, and ale-conners ; they regulated the assize of bread and beer; and courts-baron, leet, and pipoudre, wt re held ; and presentments, and other usual business, formally transacted." Some of these privileges are said to have been contained in a charter as early as the time of Edward the Confessor. in consecjuence of these extensive privileges pos- sessed by the episcopal see, there were in former ages frequent disputes between the bishops and the inhabitants of the city ; but which generally termi- nated in the triumph of the church, and the sub-- mission of the people. At present, though the bi- shop's courts are still held, •' the business tran- sacted consists of little more than the formality of swearing in a jury, electing a bailiff, and serjeant, and presenting and amercing all wiio owe suit and service, and having been summoned, do not ap- pear. The offices of porters, leather-searchers, and ale tasters. 7? HEREFORDSHIRE. ale-tasters, have long been discontinued. The ori- ginal charter of the above-mentioned fair was grant- ed by Henry the First, about the year 1189, in comniemoralfon of St. Ethelbert. It is still conti- nued, with many of its formalities, and from the length of its duration, wiiich includes the eve and whole octave of St. Ethelbert, has obtained the name of the Nine-Day's Fiar ; and durifig this pe- riod, the bishop's bailiff, according to the ancient custom, acts as civil magistrate; and on the Sun- day preceding, attends the cathedral and palace, with a mace-bearer, and other olficers in procession. This fair is annually proclaimed on the 19th of May, being the eve of the feast of St. Eihelbert. Besides the cathedral, previous to the Civil Wars Hereford contained five distinct churciies, viz. St. Petei's, All Saints, St. Nicholas's, St. xMartin's, and St. Owen's: the two latter 'were destroyed during the siege in the year lt)45, and the church of St. John the Baptist, appears always to have been an appendage to the cathedral. St. Peter's Church was founded soon after the Norman Conquest, by Walter de Lacy, who at- tended the Conqueror to England, anti who had various manors and lands in this county assigned to liim as a reward for his services. After the comple- tion of the church, about the year 1085, he was ac- cidentally killed by falling from the battlements, while inspecting the works. In tlie year 1101 this church, with all its appurtenances, was given by Hugh de Lacy, son of Walter, to ihe abbey of St. Peter's at Gloucester, by which donation a religious fraternity, wliich had been instituted here, in ho- nour of St. Gutlilac, became subject to that founda- tion, and was removed into Bye Street suburb. — • Previous to the Dissolution, no less than four chan- tries had been founded in this church ; one of them, rifjw the vestry, was originally open to the chancel ton each side of which are seven ancient stalls, sup- 3 possd TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRFPTION. 7$ posed to have been designed for the use of the bro- thers of St. Guthlac's Priory ; these stalls are very elegantly carved into pannels, quatrefoils. Sec. and have light and beiiutiful canopies of fret-work. The nave is separated from the aisles by octagon co- huTins on the soutn side, and by pillars on the north. In the year 1 793 this church was repaired, and partly rebuilt, at the expence of th.e parishioners. After the disohition, the great tythes of this church were annexed to the see of Hereford, and in tiie time of Charies U. the rectory of St. Owen's was united to liiis ciiurch, but the right of individual patronage was preserved. All Saint's Church consists of a nave, chancel, and side aisles, with a tower rising from the ground, and terminating in u lofty and well-proportioned spire; on the north side the tower overhangs its base con- siderably, but it is sustained in its present situation by two new buttresses. The nave is separated from th" aisles by circular columns, sustaining pointed arciies ; the roof, which is of timber, has ancient projecting angel brackets, pierced pannels, and pendants of foliage and tlowers. Here are several stalls, supposed to have been appropriated to the bretlu-cn ot tiu- hospital of St. Anihony, in Vienna, to whoiij this ciiurch was given by Henry llf. and who appear to have formed a small society kere to suj)erintend tkeir property, as early as the 22nd of Edward 1. The elbows of the stalis exhibit gro- tesque carvings of men and animals, and the lower parts of the seats are likewise hlled with whimsical representations ; the canopies are light and elegant, being beautifully ornamented with fret-work of qua- trefoils, roses, and foliage. Under the west end of this edilice, and contiguous to it are several subter- raneous passages, and vaulted apartments. In this church, as at St. Peter's, v^'ere four chantries, the collective revenues of which were, at the time of »heir dissolution, estimated at 20/. Is. i5\d, per annum. G St 74 HEREFOnDSHIllE. St. Martin's, which is now annexed to the parish of Ail Saints, was originally the mother church, as appears by a valuation made in the time of Edward the First, in which All Saints is distinguished as the chapel. St. Nicholas's Churcli, which is a small edifice, consists of a nave, north aisle, and chancel ; this fa- bric, though recently rej>a!red, is still in a state of decay, and the chancel has the singular appearance of falling two ways, ti^.e north and south walls both leaning outwards. Here were formerly two chan- tries in hononr of the Virgin Mary, which were en- dowed wil-h lands to the amount of 9/. lis. ^^d. per ar^num. Besides the above places of divine worship, Here- ford contains a nieeting-house for each of the fol- lowing demoninations of sectaries, Methodists, Dis- senters, Roman Catholics, and Quakers. Several monasteries and religious houses existed in this city and its suburbs previous to the Kefornia- tion, but most of them are now down, and the sites occupied by other buildings. The oldest founda- tion, independent of the cathedral, was a conununi- ty of prebendaries in honour of St. Guthlac, and wliose chapel, says Leland, 'was once a fayre build- ing of a circular forme.' These prebendaries were afterwards translated to the church of St. Peter, which being given, as before-mentioned, to the Ab- of St. Peter at Gloucester, the provost and secu- lar canons were changed into a prior and Benedic- tine monks ; who were subordinate to the above ab-» bey, and were removed into the east suburb, with- out Bishopgate, were Robert Betun, bishop of Here- ford gave them a piece of ground, on which was built the monastery of St. Peter, St. Paul, aud St. Guthlac, which was valued upon the dissolution at 121/. is. 3d. per annum. Tiiis priory is represented m the Harleian JManuscripts to have been *' very pleasant and iarge^ having much land, spacious gar_ dens" TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCKlPTIOIf . 75 dens and orchards, line walls, a rivulet called Eigne running under tlie walls, witii stately chambers and retirements, and a large and melancholy chapel, built with many descents mto it from the ground, and then of a great height in the roof." The site of this monastery is now occupied by a new County Gaol and House of Correction, on the plan of the benevolent Howard. On the north side of the city are some remains of a monastery of Black Friars, or Friar's Preachers, who were originally established in the Port Field, about the year \276, under the auspices of William Cantilupe, brother to bishop Cantilupe. On the dissolution, the site and buildings of this priory were granted to John Scudamore, Esq. of Wilton, and William Wygmore, Gent, of Shobden, but early in the reign of Elizabeth, they came into the possession of the Coningsby family, from whom the estate has descended to the present Earl of Essex. The principal vestiges of this monastery are some decayed oflices, and the remains of a cross, or stone pulpit, being originally built for tlie purpose of preaching from ; it is constructed in the form of an hexagon, open en each side, and surrounded by. a flight of steps, ''jadually decreasing as they as- cend : in the centre is a base of the same shape with two trefoil arches on each side, supporting the shaft of the cross, which branching out into rami- ii cat ions from the roof of the pulpit, and passing tlirough it, appears above in a nuiiilated state ; the upper part is embattled, and each angle supported by a buttress. A large alder, which having forced iU way in four stems tluou^li the joints of the steps; and one of its branches twining round the pillar, and passing out through an arcJi of the hexagon, adds greatly to the picturesque elfect of this beautiful re- main of anticjuity. The south side of the prior's hu-lgings is tolerably entire, being sustained by three buttresses. In tlie basement are two oblong windows, G 2 eack 76 HEREFORDSIIIKE. each of which is divided by two pillars into three compartments, having ciuquefoii arches, and at ti]e south-west corner is a circular tower. The wall on the north side, which is njantled with ivy, is supported by buttresses, but is much dilapidated. Near the river, and not tar distant from Wye- Bridge, was a house of Grey Friars, founded by Sir William Pembrugge, in the time of Edward I. and dedicated to St. Guthlac, No vestiges of the Friary- buildings are now standing ; the last remains ap- pear to have been pulled down about the latter end of the seventeenth century. Besides the above religious foundations, there were several others in this city, of v.hich not any in- teresting particulars have been handed down. Among the charitable establishments, those of the most ancient date are St. Giles's Hospital and St, Ethelbert's Ahns Houses ; the former, which is si- tuated without St. Owen's Gate, was originally founded in the year 1290 for Fryars Grisey or Sa- vignian Monks, but afterwards became the property of the Knights Templars ; on being seized by the crown, it was given by Richard the Second to this city, and appropriated to the purpose of an Alms- house, in which live poor men are supported, each being allowed 4Z. \0s. monthly, and clothes every third year. In the year 1770, this hospital was re- built by voluntary subscription; to each residence is a piece of g;arden ground attached. St. Ethelbert's Aims-House was erected in the reign of Henry III. principally by indulgences and relaxation of penances which were granted by the Bishops of Hereford, Coventry, Salisbury, and Ely, to those who contributed towards it. " The means of support, (says Mr. Duncumb) must have been very considerable at one period, at it appears, by the statutes of tne Hospital, that alms were distri- buted daily to 100 persons, ' nbl centum qvotidic re- jector Juisse, reghnus.' Possibly a portion of theof- feriiigs TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 77" ferings made by those who invited the tomb of Etelbert, was appropriated to this purpose." The revenues at present amount only to (35/. per annum, wiiich arc appliccf to the maintenance of ten poor women, eacli of whom has an apartment and a gardrn. A short distance south-east from t!ie ruins of the Bhick Friars Monastery is Coningsby Hospital, a charitable foundation, began in tiie year 1(514 by Sir Thomas Coninsby Knt. on the site of a small hospital, aneiently belonging to the Knights Hospi- tallers of St. John of Jerusalem. Tliis hospital is endowed wilh estates in Leicestershire for the recep- tion of two most valuable characters in society, the worn-out soldier, and the superannuated faithful servant. It consists of a corporal, chaplain, and 10 servitors ; the corporal or president, who collects the rents_, &c. has '20/, per annum, and is allowed to marry ; and eacli of the servitors 1/. l.v. >ld. monthly. ']'he vicarage of Bodenham, with all its appurtenances, was directed, by a codicil in the will of thefouiider, '' to be given to the successive chaplains. The ad- joining ruins of the Black Friars supi)!ied the mate- rials for this edilice, which was constructed in the form of a quadrangle, and comprised twelve apart- ments, a chapel, hail, and suitable con^-eniences ; over the door in the centre of tiie hospital, are two small Ionic pilkirs, inclosing a tablet, with the Co^ ningsby a^ms i the front of the chapel terminates with two arches, over which is the shaft of a cross ; the insiiie is quite plain ; a piece of garden is at- tached to each dwelling. Several other Hospitals and Aims-Houses, both for men and women, are distributed through this city and its suburbs ; and various tablets of dona- tions for the support of the poor, are also hungup in the ditferent churches. The General Iniirmary, which is pleasantly si- tuated near the river, a" short distance south-east 6 3 U'oui 78 HtREFORDSHlRF. from the Castle Walks, was first opened for (he recep- tion of patients, on the 26th of March 1776. Ihe original promoter of this institution was the late IRev. Dr. Talbot, rector of Heienswick ; the ground on which it is built was given by the late Earl of Oxford ; and the expence of the building itself was defrayed by a very ample subscription, chiefly raised among the nobility and gentry of the county ; the annual subscriptions, for defraying the expences of the Institution, amount to about 400/. In this edifice are accommodations for 70 persons, with every convenience for attendants and nurses. The Lunatic Asylum is situated on the north-east of the Inhrmary, and was erected about 1 4 years ago, for the reception of 20 patients afllicted witii insanity : this also was instituted by subscription, and is under the direction of the committee of sub- scribers H'lio superintend the concerns of the In- firmary. The education of the youthful poor is provided for by a Charity School, which is parth supported by voluntary contributions, and partly by tlie reve- nues arising from donations and legacies ; in this school 50 boys and 30 girls receive instruction and clothing, and small sums are given to provide many of them v.'ith apprenticesh.-ps. The Workhouse, winch is a convenient building, is situated Without the Eigne Gate, and is esta- bhslied on a general plan, by an union of the pa- rishes, and is governed under a system of judicious regulations. The Shire Hall stands in an area, called the High Town, nearly in the centre of the city : it is com- posed principally of wood, and forms an oblong square ; its length being S4 feet, and its breadth 34 ; at present it consists of only one floor, supported on three ranges of pillar* ; but in its original state (says Mr. Duncumb) '' it had a second floor, divided in- to apartments for the accommodation of the four- t«eB Topographical description. 79 teen trading companies of the city, viz. bakers, barbers, and barber surgeons, blacksmiths, braziers, butchers, clothiers, coopers, cordwainers, glovers, joiners, mercers, tanners, tylers, and weavers." This floor was removed some time since from mo- tives of safety. Under the Shire Hall the markets for grain anvl fish are held ; at the east end is the butcher's market, and at the west end, the poultry and butter.markets. This edifice is supposed to have been erected in the reign ot James I. by John Abel, the expert carpenter who constructed the, mills on on wiiich the safety of the city so much depended during the siege in the year l645. In this build- ing the assizes are held twice a year, and sessions for the town and county once a quarter. The County Gaol, whicli as before mentioned oc- cupies the site of the Priory of St, Guthlac, was completed in the year 1797, under the superinten- (lance and from the designs of Mr, J, Nash, it is inclosed within a high brick wall, having a handsome rusticated gateway, with Tuscan pillars ; the keeper's apartments have also a rustic front and pediment. The prison is very extensive, having a house of correction, workshop, inspection-room, infirmary, chapel, debtors rooms &:c. together with four courts, having gardens in them. The expence of erectijig this edilice, which is cU-an and well regu- lated, amounted to upwards of 18,000/. 'I'he City Gaol formerly composed one side of Bye Street Gate, over which, in niches, were two rude representations of human figures chained. Tifis prison bears marks of considerable antiquity, and contains one small cell, and three very high apartments, with a window in each ; by the inter- position of Mr. Nield, a dungeon, beneath this pri- son, which was formerly used for the purpose of con- finement, has been converted into a cellar. The Wye Bridge is supposed to have been con- *i-.ict€d about the end of the 13th century ; it con- sists RO IIEREFORDSHinE. sists of six arches, one of which was rebuilt after the siege in the year 1643, the former one having been destroyed to prevent the approach of the Scots. By the construction of this arch, the h.eight of the bridge was considerably reduced, whicii has given it an ir- regular appearance. ximong other amusements, such as concerts, as- semblies, &c. a company of pla) ers, who are accom- modated with a neat filtle theatre in the Broad ISlreet, furn:sh entertainment for the inhabitants every other winter. \n a plain, known by the name of AMdemarsh, is a horse course, on which races are usually run in the month of August ; these are suc- ceeded by balls in the evening. Once in three years, in the month of September, is held a meeting of the three choirs of Worcester, Ili-reford, and Gloucester, at which lime, oratorios, and other pieces of sacred music, are performed, for the bene- fit'Of the widows and orphans of the inferior clergy, by the gentlemen of the three choirs, assisted by some of the principal performers from Oxford and London. On the evening of each day there is a con- cert at the music room ; this is repeated during the course of three days. Some years ago there was carried on a consi- derable manufactory of gloves, at this place, but it is at present on the decline ; large quantities of cy- der, grain, and oak bark, are conveyed down the river to Bristol, and other places ; and by means of the same navigation, the city is supplied with coals from the forest of Dean. The weekly-markets are on Wednesdays and Sa- turdays, for poultry, butter, eggs, &c. ; and on Fri- days tor live-stock : also a great market on St. An- drew's day, for cattle, horses, &c. Fairs, first Tues- day, after February 2 ; Wednesday in Easter- we't;k, July 1, and October 20. At this last a con- siderable quantity of salted butter is brought from the adjacent counties of Wales. 3 Hereford 'JOrOGRATHICAL DESCRIPTION, 8 1 Hereford gives the title ot Viscount to the family of Devereux, the creation ot which title was in ttie reign of Edward VI. It sends two members to jaar- liament, the tirst return being made in tlie reign of Edward I. The right of eltciion is vested in the irecmen only, whose number is supposed to amount to about 1,200. I'he first regular grant of privileges to the inha- bitants of Hereford, as an incorporated body, ap- pears to have been in the time of Henry ill. these were confirmed, and occasionally enlarged, in the eighth of Edward H. the first and fifth of Edward HI. and the seventh of llichard H. when the name of bailiff, which had befose been given to the chief magistrate, was changed to that of mayor: this char- ter was further conlirmed by succeeding princes to the time of James I. who in a new charter conso- lidated the privileges of the inhabitants, and ordain- ed that the corporation should thenceforth consist of a mayor, six aldermen, and common council, hav- ing a chief steward, a common clerk, a protho-no- tary, a sword-bearer, and four sergeants at mace ; the common council to consist of 31 persons, includ- ing the mayor and six aldermen. This charter, un- der which "the city is still governed, was wrested from the inhabitants in the reign of Charles H. but was restored towards the conclusion of the reign of his successor, and confirmed by William HE in the ninth year of his reign. Hereford is situated 135 miles from London, and consists, according to the late returns, of 1,460 houses, and 0,8^8 inhabitants, viz. 3,023 males, and 3,805 females, of whom 1315 were returned as be- ing employed in trade and manufacture. .Many persons of considerable eminence and ce- lebrity have been born in tliis city ; among those who liave been most distinguislied are Eleanor Gwynn, or as she was more iamiliarly denominated Nell Gwynn, and David Garrick. Esq. The former was born S2 HEREFORDSHIRE. bom in an humble ^wtUing in Pipe Lane, but be- coming an inhabitant of tiie nietropolis, she was en- gaged in the service of a fruiterer, and in that pro- fession first appeared in the lobby of a theatre. From the sprightliness of her temper, and the affection of the manager, she was introduced upon the stage, and quickly became a general favourite, and soon attracted the notice of Liiarles IF. who was so much interested by her vivacity and humour, that he made her a partner of his bed. She did not, howevtr, im- mediately quit the theatre, but still continued to display her talents in the sprightly effusions of the comic muse. About the year 1670, she was de- livered of a son, who was afterwards created Duke of St. Alban's ; and her grandson attained the ho- nours of prelacy, and became the proprietor of that very episcopal palace, which almost adjoined the humble cot where his maternal ancestor first drew her breath. In the high sphere in which she was placed she displayed great liberality, and at that period, her situation, not being considered in the Jeast disgraceful, she obtained a considerable degree of popular approbation ; and even to the present day her memory has been cherished with a much greater portion of general esteem than is usually obtained by the mistresses of profligate monarchs ; but her errors have been eclipsed by her munifi- cence ; and her generosity in promoting the estab- lishment of Chelsea Hospital, will preserve the re- membrance of her name to the latest ages ; even tiie idea of that admirable institution is traclition- ally said to have originated with her. She died in the year 1691, at her house in Pall Mall. David Garrick, an actor of inimitable powers, was born at the Angel Inn, in Widemarsh Street, in the} ear 1717. llis father, who was a French re- fugee, at that time held a lieutenant's commission in a regiment of horse then (juartered in this city, but the place of his general residence being at Litchfield, young TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRTPTION. S3 young Garrick and his mother were removed there, a§ soon as the latter liad recovered her health. His education, which was liberal, though principally intended to tit him for mercantile pursuits, was part- ly obtained at the Litchfield Grammar-school, and partly under the tuition of Dr. Johnson, who at a subsequent period accompanied his pupil to Lon- don, in search of employnient. Garrick, having previously been an assistant in the wine trade to his uncle, who was a Lisbon merchant, embarked in the same business with his brother in the metropo- lis, but having early imbibed a i)assion for the stage, he was at kngth induced to engage in the theatrical profession, and in tiie summer of 1741, he made his rirst public appearance, at the Ipswich Theatre, un- der the assumed name of Lyddal, in the character of Aboan, in Oroonoko. His success was so great, tiiat it determined him at once to make the stage his ultimate pursuit ; and in the December following he appeared at London, at 4.he theatre in Good- man's Fields, in the character of Riclrard thel'hird, in this cliaracler iie displayed such excellence, at^,d the seeing a young man, in no more than is 24th year, and a novice to the stage, reaching at one single step to that height of perfection which ma- turity of years and long practical experience had not been able to bestow on the then capital per- formers of the English stage, was a phenomenon which could not but become the object of universal admiration ; even in a sister country his talents proved no less attractive, and such crowds attended Ills performances at the Dublin theatre, that the con- fined air, combining with the heat of the weather, produced a fever, which proved futal to many, and was distinguished by the name of Garrick's tever. On his return from Ireland he was engaged at Drury Lane Theatre, of which, in the year 1747, he. bocamejoint patentee, with Mr. Lacy, and opened it ill the ensuing winter under his own management. His 84 HEREFORDSHIRE. His exertions were accompanied with every degree of success, till the season of 1754, when the enmity of pLibHc prejudice having been excited by his en- gaging a number of foreigners to fill up the parts in various dances and balls, which lie had projet^ted to introduce ; but being aware of the intended op* position, he obtained a kind of sanction for the per- formance of the first piece, which was entitled the " Chinese Festival," from the king, by whose com- mand it was once played, without any particular dis- turbance ; but on the second night of its representa- tion, the clamour increased to riot, and the interior of the theatre was rendered a complete ruin, the benches being torn up, the lustres and girandoles broken, and the scenery destroyed ; and the protec- tion of the soldiery was necessary to preserve the house from demolition, in consequence of this, it became necessary to withdraw the [)iece, and pro- per explanations having been published, the tumi'^lt subsided, and Garrick again became the general favourite. In the year 1763 his health being im- paired, he made tiie lour of France and Italy, and on his return introdwced several considerable im- provements ill the modes of conducting the business of the stage. In the year 1 776 his increasing infirmi- ties, however, compelled him to abandon his pro- fession as an actor, and his retirement was universally lamented among the admirers of the drama: his last performance was the character of Don Felix in the Wonder. In January in the same year, he sold his moiety of the theatre to the present R. B. Sheri- dan, Esq. and two other persons, for 35,000/. He died on the 20th of January, 1779, at his house ia tlie Adelphi, after an atifiicting illness of several years, and was buried in Westmmster Abbey, where a monument has, within these few years, been erected to his memory. Great praise is due to Gar- rick for his judicious revival of many old plays, par- ticularly Shakespeare's ; he was himself likewise the writtjr TOPOGRAPHICAL DF-SCKl VTlO.f. 85 ■writer of several excellent diainatic pieces, be- sides numerous prologues and ej>ilogues of distin- guished merit. On leaving Hereford, we ])roceed in a soiitlierly direction, and at the distance of four miU-s, pass through the village of Callow, two miles to the south-east of which, on the summit of a bold and extensive eminence, called Aconbury Hill, xvhiclr is partly covered witti \oung wood, and commands a most delightful view over the adjacent country, are the traces of a large camp, of a s(|uare form, the rampart on the cast side of wliich is very con- spicuous. At ihV village of Aconbury, situated about one mile to tlie east, was a nunnery of the order of St. Augustine, founded and endowed in the time of King John, by Margery, wife of Walter de J.acy ; its revenues, at the time of the Dissolution, wt-re estimated at 751. 7s. 5d. per annum. This estate is now the property of Guy's Hospital, having been purchased with Wilton Castle, and olher estates in this county, belonging to tlie Lords Chandos, dur- ing the last century The remains of the nunnery have been fitted up as a farm-house. At the distance of about live miles from Callow, Gn the left of our road, is Harewood, tlie ancient residence of the Hoskyns family, and now the resi- dence ofSir H. Hoskyns. Bart. The mansion, which is situated in a park well wooded, is a plain struc- ture, and has been much improved, and partly re- built by the present owner. About one mile and a half to the south of Hare- wood is the village of Hen-Uan, commonly called Hb;ntland, which Taylor observes, in his history of gavel-kind, *' signifies the Old Church, and in certain pastures belonging to a farm in that parish, there is a place which to this day is called Llan- frawtwr, which is as much as to say, the Church or Convent of the Brethren ; the site whereof was up- a on 86. HERErORDSHIRE. on a small hill, not half a mile distant from Hent- land ; the ruins of wh.ich place, with its old founda- tions, are yet to be seen, and was a place dedicated to holy use : there it was that the great college for one hundred students was'founded by St. Dubricius, the prince of this region, (to repel the progress of Pelagian heresie), who succeeded his grandfather Pibanus, King of Ergin, the old name of Urchen- iieid, and in the days of King Arthur was made Archbisliop of Caerleon." At particular seasons, the foundations of extensive buildings may still be traced on the summit of an eminence rising from the western bank of the Wye ; all tiie materials, how- ever, that were above ground, have been used in the conr^truction of walls, &c. A short distance to the southwest of Hentland is an ancient square camp, called Gecr Copp, and about two miles, to the north-east, on a hill, is ano- ther but smaller camp, called Caradoc, or Cradock, v/hich is also tiie name of a seat here, belonging to the Digby family. The manor-house, which is a venerable building, is pleasantly siLuated on a bank rising above the Wye. A considerable district in this part of the county was formerly comprehended by the name of Irchen- feld, of which Mr. Gough says, a learned author affirms, that he has seen a record, wherein the inha- bitants of this district '*'are left, as it were, to their own liberty, and to be extra, comitutum ; that is, not bound upioanystrictnessby the country laws; lastly the tenure whereby they hold their lands is gavel- kind, which is a partition among all female children; with this difference only to the eldest son, that cer- tain principals as they call them, pass to him as heir- looms, and are not subject to partition ;.such as the best beast, the best bed and furniture, the best table, &c. which tenure, and those other enumerated cus- toms, they do for the most part still retain as derived to thtm from great antiquity, even before tiie Nor- mau TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 57 man Conquest ; for they are recorded to have been Consiietudmes \Valc7uium tempui's regi^ Edwardi Con- J'essoris. These customs were as follow : " if any stole from the Welch, man or woman, iiorse, ox, or cow, he was, on conviction, to restore the thing stolen, and fofeit 20s. but for a sheep, or bundle of manipuli (i. e. clothes), 2s. Whoever killed one of the king's men, and fled, was to forfeit to the king 20s. fox the mur- der, and 100s. forfeit : if the man belonged to a thane the forfeit to the man's master was to be 10s. If one Welchman killed another, the relations of the deceased were to meet, and plunder the goods of the murderer and his relations, and burn their houses, till the body was buried about noon of the following day : the king was to have his third of the booty, and 'all the rest was to remain to them. Whoever was charged with firing a house, and could not clear himself by forty compurgators, was to forfeit 20s. to the king. Whoever was convicted «f concealing one pint of honey in the custom, was to forfeit live pints for one, if his lands yielded as much. If the sheriff called them to the shire-mot, six or seven of the best were to go with him ; and whoever refused to go on summons, was to forfeit 2s. or an ox to the king, et qui de hundi^et remanet was to pay as much ; the like fine for disobeying the sheriff's precept to go with him into Wales ; for if the sheriff did not go, no one else need." (Gough's Camden). The district of Irchin field frequently occurs in W^elsh writings by the name of Urging, and is stated to have anciently been governed by independent sovereigns. At present there is no hundred of the name of Irchinlield ; but the deanery so called in- cludes the whole hundred of Wormeiow, and one parish in Webtree. Returning from this digression, at the distance of about seven miles from Harewood, on the western a 2 bank ?^8 !!hKEFOr;DSHlRE. bank of the W\ »- art- the ruins of WHton Castle, the pn^sent demoH^bf d state of which was owing to the ruyahst governors of Hereford, by wiiose orders it was burnt to the bare walls during the reign of Charles 1. and w. the absence of its then possessor, Jsir J. Brydges. 'I'iie remaining towers (hsplay a luvuriant mantling of ivy For several centuries this castle was the baronial residence of the Greys, who derived from it their tirst tiilt;, and who became owners in the time of Edward 1. After crossing the river Wye, and at the distance of three quarters of a mile from Wilton Castle, we arrive at Ross, a market town, situated, upon a rock, on the eastern bank of the riv(n" Wye. It was made a free borough by Henry III. the bishops of Hereford being its lords, who formerly had a palace here, on a plot of ground near the church-yard ; but this was in ruins even in Leland's time : the site is still called the Bishop's court. The streets are mostly on a descent ; and are ex- tremely rough and narrow, the houses appearing huddled upon each other. The market-house is in a very decayed state, though erected so lately as the reign of Charles 11. it is built of stone, and as- cended by several steps ; the upper part being sus- tained on semicircular arches, supported by three ranges of pillars, the space between them being open. The Church, which is a handsome structure, hav- ing a tower, and well-proportioned spire, rising from the west-end, contains several monuments of the Rudhalls, tiie ancient proprietors of the manor of Riidhall, in this neighbourhood, and in the win- dow over the altar^ among o'ther fragments of paint- ed glass, is one representing a bisnop, with the following inscription, Cfjomagi !!5ercfoctie!i$i)3. Tne views from the church yard, and contiguous field, called the prospect ground, are much celebrated for their picturescjue scenery; immediately below the TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRirTION. 89 (he eye, the river forms a fine semicircle, at one of the extremities of which are the ruins of W iiton Castle, and beyond it an extensive and luxuriant ■vale, terminated by the distant mountains of Pem- brokeshire ; indeed this town, from the pleasantness of its situation, has of late year? become a kind of favourite resort for the numerous summer parties, who visit the Wye; and boats, &c, are kept here for the accommodation of those who make an ex- cursion down the river. The origin of Ross does not appear to be remote, though a few coiiis and Hiedals have bten found here, but not more than one or two of the Roman times and probably these were oiiginally brought from the ruins of Ariconium : neither do the annals of this town record any events of eminent historical interest; the adventitious lustre which it has obtain- ed from its inhabitant, Jolm Kyrle, the celebrated Man of Ross, has nevertheless given it a degree of attraction far beyond its local importance. Tiiis 1 monks instituted at Lemster by the abbots of .\eading. Some say that the monks of the priory -•id that they had the scull of the head of Merewald, :;)d of Klhehnund, Kings of Merch. Mr. llac- iuit told me, that the body of King Merewald was found in a wall in the old churh at VVenlock. '^ Ther is but one paroche church in Leonminster, but it is large, somewhat dark, and of ancier.t build ing, insomuch that yt is a greate likelihood that yt is the church that was afore the Conquest. 'I he church of the priory was hard joined to the east end of the paroche church, and was but a small thinge, The common fame ot th<; people about LcmsUr TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 09 Lcmster is, Ihat King Merewald, ami some of liis successors, had a castle or palace, on an hill by the side ot the town of Leonminster, half a mile off by east ; the place is now called Comfort Castle, wher be now some tokens of diches, where buildings have been : the people of Lemster, and thereabouts, co^l once a year to this place to sport and play." At llie period of the Doomsday survey, lieomin- ster appears to have become a place of considerable miportance, the manor, with its appurtenances, con- sisting of I'i dependent estates, which had been as- signed by Edward the Confessor, to his queen Edith, or Editha, and that it was governed by eight priepositi, or bailiffs ; eight bedelli, or beadles ; and eight radchenestri, or free tenants ; and that it con- tained 238 villains, 74 borderers, and 82 men and women servants. The Church, which is dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul, was erected at different periods ; the north side (or what is called the back aisle) with part of the tower, appears to have been built before the Conquest ; the body of the church, where service is performed, is very large, neat, and spacious ; and the roof is supported by four large Tuscan pillars. It is regularly and neatly pewed, and has a fine altar-piece, painted by Ptubens, of the Lord's Sup- per; on the left side is a painting of Moses with his rod ; and on the right Aaron, in his high-priest's dress, with a pot of incense, &c. with decorations. There is also a hue-toned organ, and in the tower is a ring of eight tuneable bells. A great fire, about a century back, destroyed the roof, east end, and inside of the church, with the stalls and monuments; one of the iatterof which is described in ' Weaver's Monuments,' as being to the memory of Kenelm, a Mercian prince, with an inscription in Saxon clia- racters. I'he Priory near the church, mentioned by Le- land, was originally a monastery, built by Prince 1 2 ' Merewald, 100 HEREFORDSHIRE. Meiewald, son of Pendra, king of Mercia, in tlie year 658, for religious virgins, and endowed with much land a'jout the town; and at the Dissolution its annual revenues amounted to 6t)0l. 18s. 8d. of , which sum 4481. was paid to the abbot of Reading. Some of the buildings are >;et standing ; among them is the Priory House, which about a century ago was rented by the corporation, and made a man- sion-house for the bailiiif, but has since been con- verted into a house of industry for the poor of the town. The north side, which has undergone the least alteration, has several lancet windows, awd strong buttresses, which also support the angles at the east and west ends. Here is a Baptist meeting-house, a handsome new square brick building, with a house for the minister, and two other dwellings for widows ad- joining, built and endowed by the late Mrs. Mary Marlow of this town ; there are likewise Meeting- houses for Presbyterians and Quakers, and a Mo- ravian chapel, with the minister's house adjoining ; it is a neat plain structure, with a small organ. The Town Hall or Butter Close, as it is usually termed, was built about the year 1633. it is a singular building, constructed of timber and plaster; the architect was the celebrated John Abel, who built the Shire-hall at Hereford, and constructed the mills during the siege of that city, in the year 1643. This fabric stands on twelve oak pillars, now sustained on tone pedestals; the brackets andspand- rils of the arches above the pillars displaying much carving. Tiie quarter sessions are held here, as al>o tljL- assemblies of the corporation. A new and neat market-house, for the sale of grau), was erected by the corporation in the year 1803; it is a small buildingof the Tuscan order, with petlimtt-nts, and a cupola ; it stands in a square to the eastward of the liigh Street. Queen Mary endowed a tVte school in this town, thw TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 101 ilie building ot which was anciently a chapel dedi- cated to the Virgin Mary. Here is likewise a school endowed by Pierrepoint, Esq. Here are four Alms-houses, founded by Mrs. Esther Clarke, widow, in the year I73j, for four widows, with an annual income of live pounds to U' h, under the direction of five trustees. 'i'h>' borough is a distinct precinct from the coun- . \ ; it holds quarter sessions, and lias a gnol and a bridt-well : it is divided into si.\ wards, and was in- corporated by Queen Mary ; being governed by a high steward, a bailiff, a recorder, and 12 capital burgesses, who chu are deposited in a vault undiM* the cliancel ; aho tliR remains of the Lady Phillippa Coningsby, and others ot" the family. In a curious manuscript account of the funeral pruce^sioa of the latter lady, after recit- ing every particular relating to her funeral, is the following singular conclusion : " And then, the next morning hunting, hawking, and good cheer, and so to continue two or three days; and such is the Qwd of all flesh." A short distance to the south-east of Hope is Hampton Court, the principal seat, of George Ca- p'd Coningsby, Earl of Essex. This mansion was built under the immediate auspices of Henry IV. by his favourite Sir Rowland L?ntirall, who, " be- ing (says Leland) a gallant fellow, either a daugh-» ter, or very near kinswomen of the king's fell in love with him, and in continuance was wedded unto him ; whereupon after he fell into estimation, and had given to him lOOOl. by the year, for the main- tenance of him and his wife, and tl.eir heirs, among whicii' landes he liad I.udlowc for one parte. This Lenthall was victorious at the battle of Agincourt, and tookc many prisoners there, by which prey he beganne the new buildings of Hampton Court, and brought from an hill a springe of water, and made a little pool withm the top of his house.'* The lady- above alluded to appears to have been a co-heiress of Richard Fitz-xAllen, Earl of Arundel In what manner the estate desci^nded is not clearly record- ed, but Canulon mentions it as having been *• for 5ome time [iosscssed by the Coningsbies, a famous fa- mily in these parts;" and v.'ho purchased it of the Cornewails Barons of Iiurford. It is x\o^ the pro- perty of George, fifth Eail of Essex. Tne mansion, which is situated on a spacious lawn, of nearly one hundred acres, is a magnificent structure, partaking partly of the castellated and partly of the mona.->tic cliaracter. Th(? buildings -urround a quadrangular coui t ; having a grand square 104 ' HEREFORDSHIRE. square entrance-tower in the centre of the north front; and at each extremity anolher and smaller tower, the most eastern of which unites with the cha- pel. The entrance-tower is deeply embattled, and machicolated on both its faces. The interior is commodiou==, and many of th,e apartments are fitted up witii great taste, and a few years since was remarkable fur mucii of the ancient furniture that constituted the maginficeice of theno- Ibility two centuries ago. In one of the rooms, called King Henry's, was till lately a bed, the hangings of which were said to be those belonging to the bed the Jking slept on, and were a very fine Scotch plaid, and anotl)er of the apartments, which is furnished in a splendid manner, having crimson damask hangings, and bed and canopy of the same, remains precisely in the same state as when used by William III. when he visited Thomas Baron Coningsby, a nobleman particularly distinguished for his bravery at the bat- tles of the Boyne and x^grim in Ireland. Above the present ceiling of the great hall is a wainscot roof, done in pannels, on which are carved roses, and other decorations, which have been richly gilt and prnamenied; at the lower end is likewise to be seen a coat of arms, painted on the wall, said to be the arms of King Henry IV. but much defaced. Among the valuable paintings, preserved in this niansion, are some interesting pieces by C Jansen, Holbein, Vandyck, Lely, Kneller, an'd Keynolds. One of the most famous among the old pictures is said by Walpole to be an undoubted original of lienry'lV. Depending from the neck is a chain and m(-dallion, on which are depicted the arms of the Fitz- Aliens, Earls of Arundel ; and beneath is the following inscription : '^ Henry IV. king of Eng- land, who laid the first stone of this house, and left this picture in it, when he gave it to Linthall, who sold it to Cornewall of Burford, who sold it to the ancestors of the Lord Coningesby, in the reign of lK'"ry TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 105 Henry \'l," There is likewise to be seen here a gun, which the late Lord Coningsby had made of sword blades, taken from the Irish rebels at the bat- tle of the Boyne, oi\ the barrel of which is the fol- lowing inscription, in gold letters: " I, in the tower, became a gun In s«venttea hundred twenty-one ; Earl Couinjic^i)y, a prisoner there Bespoke and took me to tils care ; And tit 1 am for loyal lords. Made of the hlaries of rebels swords. Traitors, beware, when I'm enlarg'd, When he or 1 shall be discharg'd. For this, my first and true report, Pray use me well at Hampton Court." The battle of ihe Boyne was fouglit in the year 1690, between King William and James II. and in the library of Hampton Court is an ebony casket, upon the lid of which are miniatures of William HI. and Lord Coningsby, copied with much taste, from large pictures by the present Lady Essex ; in tiiis box is the handkerchief applied by Lord Conings- by to a wound which King William received on his right shoulder, from alield-piece, as lie was reconnoi- tering the situation of the enemy the day previous to the battle. The chapel of Hampton Court still retains traces of its pristine appearance ; the roof is (>f timber- work, and displays several carved ornaments, peculiar to the pointed style, and has various whimsical figures dispersed over it. Several of the windows contain painted glass, in various stages ot decay ; the arms, however, of Lenthall and otners are yet entire. The scenery around this mansion is in a high de- gree picturesque anil beautiful. About a quarter of a mile to the south-west flows the river Lugg, wr.ich at some distance below tiie house is joined by a beautiful little stream, that rises in the hills, about Lcckley Heath, and meanders through the park in a south- 106 HEREFORDSHIRE. south- westeily direction. Near the house is a good shrubbery, intersected by a pleasant walk, and at some distance is a neat residence for the steward. The park, which is enterea by a very handsome lodge in the rustic style, is between seven and eight miles in circumference, and contains some fine tim- ber, with about 1200 head of deer. In the park, du- ring the floods, whicii frequently occur here in a rainy §eason, a line cascade is formed by the rushing of the waters over a mass of broken rock. To the north of Hampton Cocrt, on an eminence, are the vestiges of a large camp, forming one of a continued chain, crossing this county in a north-east direction. To the south-west of Hampton Court, and on the right of our' road, is Dynmore Hill, a very consider- able eminence, commanding some extensive pros- pects over the surrounding country. " The hill of Dinesmore (says Leland) is very steep, high, and well wooded, and a specula to see all the country about. Ther stondeth a little by west of the very toppe on the left hand, as I rode, a commandry (preceptory), with a fair place that belonged to the Knights of St. John of Hierusalem in London." To whom, as ap- pears from Tanner, it had been given by a brother of the order, in the time of Henry H. The lands of this foundation afterwards became part of the es- tate of Earl Coningsby, and are still, v.e believe, the property of his descendant, the Earl of Essex. About three-quarters of a mile to the south-east of Dynmore Hill is Burghope House, formerly the seat of the ancient families of Goodyere and Dine- ley. The mansion is now going fast to decay ; it has ancient mullioned windows, with projecting pointed gables, and curious picturesque chimnies. This es- tate was sold about 30 years ago, by Sir John Dine- ley, the last baronet of this Vamily, to Governor Peachey, now Lord Selsea. Keturning to our road, at the distance of hve miles from TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 107 from Hope, we pass through the village ot Welling- ton, about one mile to tiie south-east of which is Sutton Walls, celebrated as the site of the palace or Offa, king of the Mercians, where, as before-men- tioned, the unsuspecting Ethelbert was treacherously murdered, " When to th' unjiallow'd feast -Of Mercian Olfa he invited came, To treat of spousals." Phillips, Suttoit Walls comprehends a spacious encamp- ment on the summit ot a hill, surrounded by a single ra-npart, having entrances on the north and south sidts. The area, which includes about 30 acres, is nearly level, excepting towards the centre, where there is a low place, called Ofla's Cellar, near which in dig<;ing some years ago, a silver ring, of an antique form, was found. SuUon is included in the extensive manor of Mar- den, \Ahich was an ancient demesne belonging to the crown, but given by King Ofi'a to the canons ol Hereford, then termed the presbytery of Marden, in' e.\j)iation of the murder of Etiielbert. At the distance of about eight miles from Welling- ton, after passing through the villages of Morton and Holmer, we arrive at Hereford, about six miles from which, on tb.e right of our road is Meend Park, the seat of Sir Richard Symmonds, Bart. The man- sion, which is situated under the west side of fiddle- bow Hill, is a large plain structure of brick ; and tiie grounds al'ford some rich and well-wooded scenery. About three miles to the south-east of Meend Park, in our road, is the village of St. Weonards, which derives its name from the dedication of its ciiurch to the British saint of that name, whose ligure, represented as an old man sustaining a book, and an ox, was formerly in the north chancel win- dow. Several of the ancent famdy of the Minors, who 108 HEREFORDSHIRE. who came over with the Conqueror, and were seated at Triago, in this parish, lie buried here. , At the distance of four miles beyond St. Weonards, we arrive at the village of Welsh Newton, about one mile so the north-west of which was Pembridge Castle, which is mentioned as early as the seventh of Henry HI. when William Lord Cantilupe was its governor. The castle is now totally demolished, to- gether with an adjoining cliapel, and the park has been ploughed up and cultivated. About two miles to the south-east of Welsh New- ton, are two eminences, called Great and Little Doward Bills, on the former of which are the re- mains of an ancient encampment, styled King Arthur\ Hall; from which the ground gently declines to the river. On the summit of the latter, which is situated a short distance to the west, are also the vestiges of an ancient camp, near which, according to Gibson's Camden, broad arrow heads have been found : and in a place which appeared to have been arched over, an almost entire human skeleton was discovered, *' whose joints were pretended (says Mr. Gougb) to be twice the length of those of the present race." Between the Doward Hills and hymond's Yate ok -Kock, situated a liitlt; to the south, is the cascade of the New Weir, v.hich has been selected as one of tlic most beautiful and majestic scenes upon the Wye, as it gains superior advantages from accidental ac- companiments. Of this spot, Mr. Wiiateley, in hii Observ£,tions on xModern Gardening, says, *' A scene at the New Weir on I lie Vt'ye, whicli in itself is truly great and awful, so far from being disturbed, becomes more interesting and important, by the bu- siness to which it is destined. It is a chasm between two high ranges of hill that rise almost perpendicU' iarly from the water; the rocks on the sides are mostly heavy masses, and their colour is generally brown ; but" here and there a pale craggy shape, •liirts up to a vast height above the rest, unconnected, $ broken, TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION'. 109 "broken, and bare ; large trees frequently force out their way among tiicni , and many of tncui stand far back in the covert, wliere their natural dusky liue is deepened by the shadow that overhangs them. The river too as it retires bses itself in woods, which close i.n mediately above, then rise thick and high, and darken the water. In the midst of all tiiis gloom is an iron Fu/oe^ covered with a black cloud of smoke, and surrouiided with half-burnt ore, with coal, and with cinders; the fuel for it is brought do'A'i) a path, worn into steps narrow and steep, and winding among precipices : and near it is an open space of barren moor, about which are scattered the huts of the workmen. It stands close to the cascade of the Weir, where the agitation ot the current is in- creased by large frajjuients of rocks, which have been swept down by lir.ods, from the banks, or shi- vered by tempests from the brow ; and the sullen sound at stated intervals, of tne strokes from the gru-al hammer in tiie forge, deadens the roar of the water-fall. Just below it, wh.le tlic rapidity of the stream still continues^ a ferry is carried across it ; and lower down, tiie fishermen use little round bijHts, cniled truckles (coracles) the remains, per- haps of the anc ent iiritish navigation, which the least motion will overset, and the slightest touch may de- slroy. All the employments of the people seem to require either exertion or caution ; and the ideas of ioice or of ilanger, which attend ttiem, give to the scene an animation unknown to the solitary, though perfectly compatible wilh the wildest romantic situ- ation." J'jurnnyfroin Upper Sapey to Alterines ; through Brom" yard and Hf.rt. *' 'l"he castle of Kilpec (says Leland) now longeth to the Erie of Ormond ; sum mines of TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 113 of the wallcs ^-et stand. The priory stood from the castle a (juiuier of a mile." This priory was subor- dinate to St. Peter's at Gloucester, to which it had been ijiven by Hugh Fitz-M'illiam, an ancestor of Lord Kilpec, '* it was suppressed in Thomas Spof- ford, bishop of Hereford's time, and clerly united to Gloucester." Three miles to tiie south-west of Kilpeck, in our rood, is the village of Kendekchurch ; about two miles to the south-east of which, on the borders of Monmouthshire, is Kentchurch Park, the seat of John Scudamore, Ilscj. who has represented the city of Hereford, in six or seven successive parliaments. The house is pleasantly situated in a park, between three. or four miles in circumference, and contain- ing some line timber. About one mile to the north-west of Kender- ciiuich, is the village of Kvvias IJarold, where was formerly an ancient castle, which was founded pre- viously to the Concjuest, thou^ih Dugdale says that it was built by William Fitz Osborne, earl of Here- ford after the Conquest. Leland, liowever, observes, " the fame gocth that Kynge Harold had a bastard namyed Harold, and of this Harold part of Ewis was named Ewis 7ir/;-'/A/.— The fame is, that the castell of Map-Herald was builded of Harold afore lie was k} nge ; and when he overcam the Welsc/ie men, Harold gave this castle to his bastard." Here was likewise a priory or cell of Black Monks, whicb (says Leland) " was translatyd from Dulesse (Dew- las) village, a myle and upper on the broke. Dulesi village longed to Harold. Filius Haraldi foundyd this at Duies : Robertus Tregoz translated it from Dules to fMapheralt : it was a cell to Gloucester:" to which place the monks were finally removed in the year 1338, and their possessions united to those of St. Peter's Abbey, their church having been given to this abbey early in the 12th century. One mile to the north of Ewias Harold, at the K 3 village 114 HEREFORDSHIRE. village of Dore, was an abbey of white monk?, de' dicated to the Virgin Mary ; it was built by Robert de Ewias, youngest son to Harold, lord of Ewias ; at the time of its suppression it consisted of an abbot and eight religious, and was valued at 101/. 5s. •id. per annum. Soon after this, the chapter- house, cloisiers, and other buildings of the abbey, were pulled cJowb, and the materials sold, together with part cf the church ; enough, however, of the latter is still left to shew that it was built in the ca- thedral form, and that its architecture was very ele- gant. During the reign of Charles I. John Viscount Scudamore obtained a licence to rebuild this fabric, and though it was not entirely rebuilt, it underwent considerai>le repairs ; and in 1634 was re-conse- crated by llieophilus Field, bishop of St. David's. 1 his church consists of a nave, chancel, and tran- sept, with a wcll-pro!)ortioned and massive tower ; the transept was completely new-roofed by Lord Scudamore, whose arms together with those of Eng- land, and of the see of Hereford, are linely carved on the screen which divides the chancel from the nave; the foinier of which is spacious, and has a magnificent appt-arance, its length bting 84 feet, its breadth 32, and its height 45. The communion tnble, wliich rt'sis upon three elegant pillars, is a large slab, 12 ft-et long, and four broad: the altar- piece di>play-^ a singular representation, in wood, of. the heart, hands, and feet, of our Saviour, pierced and bleeding. Above the altar are three beautiful windows - f painted glass: in the centre window Je- sus is depicted ascending into heaven ; above him is Mo'-.es, and St. John th.e Baptist ; and beneath the eleven Aoos'les. In the other windows, are full-length iigures of the Evangelists, and of St. IVter, St. Andrew, St. James, and St. John, with appropriate legends. Behind the altar is a kind of cluipi l, dt nominated a double cloister, tiie roof of whicli is supported by well-proportioned piliars of good TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 115 good workmanship ; here, beneath an arcli is a mu- tilated tis[iire carved in tree-stone, which is said to be the effigies of Robert de Ewias, the founder of this abbey, who is recorded io have been buried here, together with Robert, his son, and severcil others of his family. The abbey lands are now the property of the duke of Norfolk, who obtained them by his marriage with the heiress of the lords of Scudamore. The parish of Dore contains about 5000 acres. The buildings are chiefly farm-houses and cottages, built of timber, with mud walls, -and lying scattered on the hills and in the vallies ; the land being ex- tremely diversified and brok< n. At Longtown, a secluded village, situated about three miles to the west of Dore, near the junction of the upper branches of the Munnow, are some in- considcraivle remains of a castle, and to the east- ward is an eminence, called Money Farthing Hill ; probably from coins having been found hero. Retuniii)g to our road, at the distance of about five miles from Kenderchurcb, after passing through the villages of Pontrilas and Ro\\lston, we arrive at Altyrinys, an ancient mansion belonging to and long the seat of the Cecils, from whom descended ti.e Lord Burghley. The house is situated in a val- l^'V near the junction of the Houdy with the Mun- now, on tlie borders of Monmouthshire. About one mile to the south of Altyrinys, is Tievvyn House, the pleasant seat of — Rosier, Esq. near which, on the brow of a precipice of the Black Mountains, are vestiges of an ancient encampment, of an oblong rectangular form, the area of which measures about l60 yards by 80 yards. I'eyond the bank, on one side, is another entrenchment, still more extensive, of a semicircular figure, and defend- ed by a double ditch and rampart. The former Mr. Coxe supposes to be of Roman origin, and the latter to have been annexed by the Britons or Saxons. 116 HEREFORDSHIRE. Saxons. The situation, he remarks, was excellent, *' as well for an exploratory camp, asfor tiie defence of the road, which ran near ike fool of the eminence.'' Tlie roads in this district, atid indeed in ail this part of the country, are excessively rugged and bad. Jvuitit^ij J'loin Kinglon to Little hondon ; Ihi im^/t He- reford undj\,e(lbnri(. Kington, or Kyneton, is a small market town, si- tuated on the Arrow, at tlie nortli-western extremity of liie county, near the borders oi Radnorshire. The town is well built, and is inhabited chief!} by clo- thiers, who carry on a considerable trade in narrow cloth. The church is a very irregular structure, hav- ing a detached tower, surrounded by a spire of a singular form. At the entrance of the town is a free grammar school, erected and endowed by Lady Watkins ; here is likewise a cJjarity school. It has a maikfof on \\edn(sday, ai.il fairs on the Wednesday belore F.aster ; Vv'hit-Monday ; August 2 ; and Sep- tcinber 4. Kingtou is situated 133 miles from Lon- do!), and contained, according to tiie late returns, .n 1 houses and l4'J4 iniiabitant^, viz. ()Ci4. males, and 7f)0 ft^males ; of \\hoin 339 were returned as be- ing employed in various trades and manufactures. About one mile to the north of Kington,, on the summit of Bradnor Mountain, are the remains of a s(}uare camp, and at Huntingdon, a village about three m.iestothe nortii-west of Kington, are the ruins of a castle, which gave name to the hundred in which it stood. This castle ^' longed (says Leland) to the Duke of Bokingham." At the distance of ti)ree miles from Kington, we passtln'ough tlie village of Lionshall, containing 128 houses, and 678 inhabitants. Here are the ruins of castle, of which scarcely any thing now remains but fragments of the outer walls. ' ()n leaving Lionshall, we proceed iiia south-easter- ly direction,'and at the distance of four miles arrive at Wboblly, an ancient market towiij situated 147 mileii TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION Il7 miles I'roin London, and consisting of ItiO houses, and (308 inhabitants, viz. 2y4 nrales, and 3l4 fe- males ; of whom 7 8 were returned as being employ- ed in trade and manufacture. Many of the houses are well built modern structure-^, the town having suf- fered greatly by fire some few years bacU 'i'ne church is spacious and strong built, and contains two or three ancient burial chapels. On the south side of the town formerly stood an ancient castle, whicii was taken from the Empress PvJaud by KingStephen ; it is mentioned by Leland as being a goodly and line building, but somewhat in decay ; tlie scite is now converted into a bowling-green. The town is go- verned by two constables; it returns two members to parliament, who are chosen by the inhabitants of houses of 20/. per annum rent and upwards, pacing scot and lot, and resident therein 40 days belore the election. Here arc two good charity schools, the one for boys and the other for girls ; its market is on Thursday, and fairs on Holy Thursday, and the third Tiiursday after. Three miles beyond Weobley is the village of "Wormsley, where a priory of Augustine canons of the order of St. Victor, was founded by Gilbert Tal- bot, in the time of King John, and dedicated to St, Leonard de Pionia, and whose revenues at the peri- od of the dissolution were valued at 83/. 10s. 2d. per annum. About eight miles from Wormsley is the city of Hereford, tour miles beyond which, on the right of our road is Longworth, the seat of James Walwyn, Esq. The mansion, which was built a few years agp, is fitted up w;th much elegance, and the apat tments are decorated with some good pictures ; the library also contains a seltct and valuable collection of l)Ooks. About one mile to the east of the last mentioned place, on the summit of a commanding eminence, on the right of our road is St. Ethelbeit's Camp, which is traditionally said to be the spot where Etht» elbert 118 HhREFORDSHIRE. elbert pitched his tents when on liis journey to the court of King OiTa. On the south-west side of the same eminence is Sutton Court, the seat of James Hereford, Cst'}. who has within these few years erected a handsome man- sion of Bath stone, a short distance from tlie ancient residence, which is yet standing, though somewhat ruinous ; and together with the old furniture is pre- served wit!i care. Returning to our road, at the distance of about se- ven miics from Hereford, is the village of Stoke Edith, which derives the latter part of its name from the dedication of the church to St. Editha, daughter of K^ing Egbert. At this place is the principal seat of the Hon. Edward Foley. The mansion, which is a spacious brick building with wings, stands in a ve- ry pleasant park, on a kind of terrace. In the hall are some fine paintings by Sir James Thorn hill ; and in the other apartments, which are fitted up with great taste, is a good collection of family portraits. The park and grounds, which have been consider- ably improved within the last fifteen years, are well wooded, and display some fine scenery. At the distance of about eight miles from Stoke Edith, after passing through tiie village of Torring- ton, we arrive at Lldbuiiy, an ancient well built market town, situated on a declivity near the south end of the Malvern Hills, about one mile west from the river Leddon, from which it derives its name, ft chiefly consists of two streets, whic!) cross each otiier at right angles. In the principal street is the old market house, which is raisixl on strong oak pil- lars, and composed of timber and lath plastered and whitewashed; the beams being coloured black. This method of building predominates in the more ancient parts of the town ; and many of the houses have pro- jecting stories ; the modern houses are chiefly of red brick. The Chuvch is a large edifice of Saxon origin, thouch TOFOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 1 1 f> tliough it has undergone many alterations at dilVer- ent times. It consists of a nave, side aisles, and chance!, a chapel, and a detached tower; which is terminated by a iinely-proportioned spire, about 60 feet high. The nave has' octagon pillars, with pointed arches ; and was divided trom the chancel by a very beautiful carved screen, half of which has however been removed. '1 he chancel appears to have formed part of the original building, hav- ing several short massive coluinns, with semicircular arches. On the north side is a square chapel, hav- ing hve pointed windows, which have been deco- rated with painted glass,' as well as others in differ- ent parts of the church ; but the whole is now re- duced to confused fragments. This chapel is dedi- cated to St. Kathevine, a female of th.e name of Ka- tberine Audley, " a religious woman in the reign of Edward 11. who had a maid called Mabel, but not being fixed in any settled place, she had a re- velation that she should not set up her rest till she came to a town where the bells should ring of them- selves. She and her niaid coming near Ledburv, heard the bells ring, though the church doors were shut, and no ringers there. Here then she deter- mined to spend the remain.der of her days, and built an hernjitage, living on iierbs, and sometimes on milk. The king, in consideration of her birtii, or piety, or both, granted her an annuity of 30/. Rex pr:ecepit vicecomiti Hereford cjuod omnes terras et tenementa que fuerunt Petri de Limesey in Mo- nvton et Dilew caperentur in manum regis, et quod de exitibus eorundem solverct annuatim Catisinae de Audley recluss de Ledbury 30 li. (Goitg/is Comden.) Among the numerous sepulchral memorials in this church, is an inscription in memory of Anne, wife of Ambrose Elton, Esq. of the Ilazel, who died in the year iboO, having had 17 children, three sons and 14 daughters, of whom she lived to see 1 1 mar- ried i and of their issue more than ICO persons. — Here 1-20 HEREFORDSHIRE. Here is likewise an inscription recording tlie in- terment of James Bailey, of this town, wiio died in the year 1674, " aged 100 years and eight months. He was younger brother to Hunipliry Bailey, of Ocul Py chard, and of Samuel Bailey, late of Hereford. Tiiesc three brothers lived the age of 300 years ; what one wanted tiie other n;ade up. MoJ's rapit omnia." About the year l40l, this church was made col- legiate by Bishop Trevenant, who established here a master or deacun, and eight secular pricsls, be- sides clerks and other servants : this college was dis- solved in the first of Edward VI. : the deacon's lodgings, which were situated on the north side of, the Church, are now converted into a sciiool- iiouse. Near ti)e Market-house is an Hospital, in honour of St. Catherine; it is a very ancient timber and plaister building, and was toundeci by Bishop Ko- liot, in the year 1232, for six smgle men, two men and their w'ives, and two widows. At the Dissolu- tion ils annual revenues were valued at 32l. 7s. i Id. it was re-founded by Queen Elizabeth, tor a master, seven poor widowers, and three poor women, each to be allowed 61. 13s. 4d. a year, besides ciotiies and firing ; this allowance has smce been augmented to Jive shillings weekly. Here is a good Free-school, which was estab- Ifshed before tlie Reformation, and is partly sup- ported by rents issuing from dissolved chantry lands ; there is likewise a Charity-school, besides several alms-houses, and numerous benefactions have been made for the use of the pocr. Ledbury had once the privilege of sending two members to parliament, but afterwards surrendered its rights, on the plea of inability to support them. This town formerly belonged to the see of Here- ford, to which it was given by Edwin, a powerful Sax- on, who imagined himself cured of the palsy by St. Ethelbert's TOPOGRAPHICAL DLSCH JI'TION. 12J Elhelberl's prayers. Bisluip Bcliui) procured the thaiter of a market lor this town, to be held on iSaturdays, vrhich was by a later charter changed to Tuesday, Its lairs are on the lirst Monday in February ; Moi:day before l'2a;ter; May I'J; ,|une €2; October 2 ; and Monday jL>elore bt . Thcnias, December 21. The town of Ledbury is situated. 120 miles from Lo:(l; n, and cons•^ts, according lo the late returns, oi til8 houses, and o, 058 inhabilanf- ; viz. 1,513 males, and 1,545 females, of vshcm 484 were returned as bein^ i-mploycd in trade and manutacture, the prin- cipal of which is ti)e making of ropee, lines, and' sacks tor meal. Gieat cjuantities ol cyder are also manufactured in the neighbourhood, which consti- tutes a considerable article oi trade ; the clothing Irade was at one time very fiouiishing in this town, but it has greatly declined <>f late years. On an eminence, two miles to the north of Led- bury, is Hope End, a small but pleasai^t seat be- lohiiing to Sir Harry Vane Tempest, Bart ; about oiic mile to the soujh-east of which, on the summit oi one of the highest ndges of the Malvern Hills, on the borders of V» orcestershire, are the imui^nse works, called the Herefordshire Beacon, formerly one of the strongest and mosi iiuponant hill fortresses in this island. " The vast labour (says a modern wrilei) employed in its construction, its amazing belts of ramparts and tnmches, its great extent, its well-chosen situation, which commands what was anciently the only pass throi;gh the Malvern Hills, and which indeed is very nearly so even to the pre- sent hour ; its singular irregtilarity of form and evi- dent dissimilitude to the modes of fortification ob- served by the Danes, Saxcns, and l^onians, all com- bine to establish its origin, which must unquestion- ably be ascribed to the Britons. 1 h.e same reasons also evince, that it was net constructed for mere tCMnporary purposes, but rather for permanent secu- L ritv ; !22 HEREFORDSHIRE. lily ; as a place wherein an entire district jnight seel; rehi Kenchester to Hay, and so to Breknok and Cairmardin. The place wher the town was is all overgrown with brambles, hazels, and like shrubs. Nevertiieless liere and there yet appear rums of buildings, of the which the foolish people caull on [one] the king of Feyres Chayre. There hath been found noatra memorla Uite.res hritannici et er eisdem canalm, ntjua ductua, tesselata paviinaif((,frng- nicntum calennhe uurea, ctilcur ex argento, byside other strawnge things. At Kenchester was a palays of Offa, as sum say ; the mines yet remain, and vaults also. Here hath been and is found 'djossoribns et aratoribus, Romayne money, tesselata pavimenta, a lytle crosse of gold to were abowt one's neck, and tlicr . TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. ]27 ther they call them Diccrt/ or Dae/fick halfpens or money." The form of the station is an irregular hexa:»on ; the south-west ai'd south sides being tlie boldest ; tlie present road, under ihe former, aopearnig to have been a ditch. The walls may be t aced all round the cit}-, though overgrown with hedges and timber- trees, The f^round of the cHy is higher than the circumjacent couiitry. Nothing remains of its for- mer splendour, except towards the east end, a piece of ruin, which was probably part of a temple, with a Iiiche which is live feet high, and thre^ broad within, built of Roman brick, rougii stones, and indissolu- ble mortar, and called the Chair : round it are several foundations and holes, as of vaults, anrl near it ^re some very large foundations. In the year 1669, a large vault, with a tesselated pavement, and stone floor, was discovered ; and some years since a very fine Mosaic iloor was foimd entire ; and, about 30 years ago, an aqueduct or drain, of considerable extent, with the bottom entire, was opened Ijere. Great numbers ot Roman coins, bricks, leaden pipes, urns and large bones, have also been formerly dug up. At the distance of two miles beyond Creden llill, we pass through the village of \lansel Lacy, about one mile beyond which, on the right of otir road, is FoxLEY, the seat ot Uvedale Price, Esq. the celebra- ted author of ' Essays on the Picturesque/ The house is a square plain structure of brick, situated on the declivity of an eminence, and con)manding some beautiful views over the vale of Hereford ; the dis- tance being formed by various hills retiring in per- spective, and the foreground by rich masses of wood. The interior of the house is elegantly fitted \ip, and decorated with a good collection of paintings by the first masters. About two miles to the north-west of Foxley, in our road, is the village of Norton, to the north of which is the celebrated eminence, called Lady Lift, 2 from \2?> HEREFORD?HIR.E. from the summit of which the most beautiful pros- pects burst upon the view with uncommon grandeur and sublimity. Proceeding north-westerly, at the distance of three miles from Norton, on the right of our road, is the vl'.age ot SARNSFiELD, in tlie church-yard of which is a tomb-stone to the memory of John Abel, the celebrated architect who built the market-houses of Hereford, Leominster, Kingston, and Brecknock. He died in the year 1594, m the 97th year of his age. This stone, which was desicned and sculptured by himself, displays his own eCiigies kneeling, with those of his two wives, together with the emblems of liis profession, the rule, the compass, and the scjuare. On the stone is tlie following singular epitaph, which was also writen by himself; *' T\n9, crafs^y stone a covering is for an architect's bed, That lofty buildings raised high, yet now lies low his head ; flis line ai^d rule, so death concludes, are locked up in .store ; Build diey who list, or they wlio wist, for he can build no more. His house of clay could hold no lotiii^er ; May heaven's jov build him a stronger. JOHN ABEL. Vive ut vivus in xilnm a'te?mam" At the distance of about 10 miles beyond Norton, after passing through the villages of Wonton, Lions- hall, and Fentress, we arrive at Kington, about four miles to the south of which is Newport House and Park, »iie seat of the Hon. Andrew Foley. Journey from Ilardwkk to Hereford, by Hanmcrh Croi>s. Hardv.tck is a small village, situated on the-west- ern extremity of the county, near the Golden Vale, which extends itself along the river Dore, and de- rives its jrame from its pleasant fertility in the spring, wht'H TOPOGRAl'HECAL DESCRIFTION. 129 when it is covered over with a yellow livery of flowers. It is encompassed with hills, which are crowned with woods. Among the hills to the soutji of the Golden Vale, formerly stood Ckaswkll Priory, a small house, dedicated to the Virgin Mary, and subordina'.e io the order of Grandmount, in Normanciy. It con- tained a prior and ten raonks, who were established here about tlie end of the reign of King John, At the Suppression its revenues amounted to 40s. per annum, which were granted by Edward IV. to God's House, now Christ's College, Caiubridge. About four miles to the north-east of Crasy.'ell Friory is the site of the demolished caslle of b^oD- Hii.L, which in Leland's time was " somvvhat in ruine." It is mentioned in a record of the lime of Henry III. as belonging in the 30t!i of l^dward I. to ** Robert, Lord Chdiidos, who was fourth in descent from one of both his names, who came in with the Conqueror. Richard Neville, Earl cf AVarwicke, in the tm^.e of Henry VI. held it in ri;.^ht of his wife Anne, who alter his death at Barne!: Field, setUed it on Kii»g Henry Vlf. Queen Eiizabet;. granted it to Su- Robert Dudley, Knt. of the Garter."— Go/^gA'^ Returning from this digression, at the distance of five miler> from Hardwick, we pass through the vil- lage of Bredw^rdink, where was formerly a castle, but which has long since been destroyed ; from the imperfect traces, however, that remain, it appears to have been a strong aiid massive fortress. This castle gave binh and name to Thomas Biadv;ardin, archbishop of Canterbury^ who for his various and abstruse learning was called in that age the Profound Doctor. About one mile to the south east of Bredwardine is Moccas Court, the seat of Sir George Amyand Cornewali, Bart. The present mansion is delight- fully situated, occupying an easy ascent on the south-. ern 136 HEREFORDSHIRE. eni bank of the Vv'ye. The park which ranges to the souti) wesi, IS iintly wooded, and includes a consi- derable portion of'tne neighbouring hill. On the summit of an eminence, about half a mile to the north-v;est of Moccas Park, is a large and pe- culiar kind of cromlech, called King Arthur's ta- blet, the principal stone of which is incunibent, and broken nearly in the middle ; it measures 18 feet in length, and from seven to ten feet broad, its thick- ness being about two feet. The number of upright stones ti'.at originally supported this slab appears to have been eleven ; but several of them are now fal- len. Other smaller stones are scattered near the cromlech ; and on one side is a small mound or em- bankmeut of earth and stones. At the village of Dorston, situated a short distance to the west of Moccas Park, was formerly an ancient castle, which is now entirely demolisijed, the origin of which does not appear to be recorded. At the di'.lance of about four miles from Bredwar- dine, on our road, are the vestiges of an ancient tract, called tiie Portway, pointing towards Ken- chester, and about one mile beyond the Portway, on the left of our road is Garnons, the seat of J. G. Cotterell, Esq. the house, which is pleasant!} situated on the soutii-western acclivity of Bishopstone Hill, commands various extensive ano rich prospects. About one mile beyond Garnons, we pass through the village of Bridge Sollars, three miles to the south of whicli is Madlky, formerly the site of a castle, of which there are no remains. Tnere is a small cross, consisting ofasqunre pedestal and shaft, near the centre of the village, and in tiie church yard are the remains of another cross. Ketnrning to our road, at the distance of two miles from Bridge Sollars is Sugwas Pool, where was for- merly a palace \iiu\ chapel belonging to the bishops of llereforti, and the principal residence of Bishop Cantikipe.. I'he palace has been long converted in- to TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION". 131 to a farm-house ; and the chapel was taken down in the year \792, and a handsome house erected on the spot. *' In a pool in this parisii, by tlie road side, abounding with tine trout, it is pretended 'rh.omas liecket often appears, vvlieiice the niche at Kenches- ter is called Becket's C/tuir.'' (Gough^is Comc/rn.) x\bout half a mile to the south of Sugwas is Eaton camp, a large ancient entrenchment, with a single ditch and rampart, in good preservaiion ; the area contains between 30 and 40 acres, and is now culti- vated. Four utiles beyond bugwas Pool, after pas- sing White Cross, we arrive at Hereford. Journey from iMyi^ters Hill to Clifford, throuiih Leominster. Layster's Hill is situated at the north-eastern extremity of this county, on the borders of Worces- tershire, two miles to the south-west of which is the village of KimBolton, containing 109 houses and 504 inhabitants; six miles beyond which, after' pas- sing through the town of Lciominster, we arrive at the village of Monkland, which with its church, in the time of William Kufus, was given to the Bene- dictine monks of the abbey of St. Pqter at Castelli- one, or Canches in Normandy, to which it became a cell. It was afterwards given lo the Carthusians at Coventry. At the distance of about 15 miles from Monkiand, after passing through tlie villages of Great Delwyn, .SarnslK-ld, Kinnersley, Willtrsley,' Winforton, and Whitney, we arrive at Clifford, a conside'rable village, containing 163 houses and d'J7 inhabitants. At this place are the remains of a castle, which for nearly two centuries was the baronial resi- dence of the Lords de Clifford. The ruins, which stand on a bold eminence, rising from the banks of the Wye, consist chiefly of massive fragments ol walls, overhanging the sleep, near the river side. Jt is said that the celebrated Rosamond de Clilford, the fair but unfortunate mistress of Henry 11. wa^; born in this castle» 132 HEREFORDSHIRE. At this village Simon Fitz- Richard Fitz- Ponce, ia the reign of Henry I. founded a priory of Cluniac inonki?, suhordinate to a monastery at Lewes, a bo- rougii town of Sussex, It was dedicated to the Vir- gin Mary, and continued till the general dissolution, when it was valued at 57/. 7*. M. per annum. Journey from Little Hereford to Buton Lane ; through Orleton, The village of Lhtle Hereford is situated on the banks of the Teme, on the borders of Shrop- shire, two miles to the south-west of which is the village of Brimfjeld, containing DO houses, and 415 inliabitants. A\ this place there was a college of se- cular ca!:uns in the reign of Henry 1. ; but in the year 1155 they turned Benedictine monks, and re- signed their lands to the abbey at Gloucester. Two miles beyond iirinjheld, we pass tiuough the village of Orleton, containmg 97 houses, and 507 inhabitants, it has a fair on tiiC illii of April. At the distance of about three miles from the last- mentioned piaee, and one to the right of our road, formerly stood Croft Castle, the ancient seat of the Crofts, a Saxon family of distinction, who resided here as early as tlie time of Edward the Confessor, and whose descendants continued to make it a place of residence till nearly tiie conclusion of the last century^ when the family became extinct. The estate is now the property of Somerset Davis, Esq. vviio has another seat at Wigmore, called Wigmore Hall, about two miles to the north-west. The an- cient castle, v/hich stood in afi extensive park, has been long since demolished : at the nortii-westerii extremity of the park is tiie site of a British camp, called Croft Ambrey, the prospect from which is very extensive. About two miles to the south-west of Croft Park, in our road, is the small village of iMortjmek's Cross, pleasantly sHuated in a beautiful valley,, wa- tered lOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 13S tered by the river Lug. Near this place, in the year 14d1, was fought the famous battle between the two housi^s of York and Lancasier, the issue of which proved in favour of the LCarl of iMarc h, after- wards Ixlward IV. who commanded in person. A little to tiie south of tiie viilaue, at an angle of the two roads, a ntiat Tuscan pedestal of white stone. With an iiscription descriptive of tiiis battle, was erected bv subscription in the year 1799. A most s'ngular phenomenon is said to have oc- CTiired at tiie tu^e this battle was fougut, of w'hici* the following description is given by ^peed. *' On the verge ot this sliire, bui between Ludlow and Little lieretord, a great batlail v.as fovii^ht by Jasper Larie cM J'embroke, and James Butler, Earle of Gr- in oiul and Wiltshire, aganst the Earle ot Marche; ill wnich three thousand and eight hundred men were slaine ; tlie two earles tied : but Owen Teu- ther was taken and beheaded. I his field was fought upon the daye of the Virgin Mary's PuiUica- tion, in Anno l4tJl ; wherein before the batta:! was btrok, appeared visibly in tlie lirmament t/irec Siinnes, which after a while joined all tog-^ther, and became as before, fur whicli cause, as some iiave thought, Edward afterwards gave the sunne in his full bright- ness for his badge and cognizance." Other historians have likewise mentioned this appearance ; and Dray- ton in his Miseries of Queen Margarite, attributes the victory obtained by the Earl of March to this phenop.ieiion. At KiNGsLAN'D, a pleasant village about a mile io tne south-east of Mortim>'r's Cross, was a castle It^longing to King Merwald, of which the ditches a, id keep were visible in Leland's time. Aijout two miles beyond Mortimer's Cross, on the left of our road, is SHOBDtN Court, the seat of Vv'iiiiam Hanbury, Es(}. The house stands in a park between three and four miles in extent, and cor^- munds some rich and picturesque scenerv. About M ' half 134 HEREFORDSHIRE. half a mile beyond Shobden, and two and a half from Mortimer's Ci\)ss is Byton Lane. Jourjwy from Aston to Steplelon Castle ; ihrougli Lent/lull. Aston is a small village situated at the north-east- ern extremity of the county, about two miles to the north of which is Dounton, the seat (;f Richard Payne Knight, Esq. The exterior of this house, from its towers and embattled walls, assumes the appearance of a castle, by which name it is generally called, though it was certainly not designed to imi- tate a Gothic fortress, but ratlier the njilitary archi- tecture of the Greeks and Romans. It is situated on an elevated bank, commanding a lawn bounded by the river Teme» and surrounded by an extensive amphitheatre of wood. Tiie house is built with stone, and though consisting of several parts of dis- similar characters, eacii part is uniform m itself; and the wliole from its general union witii tiie conti- guoils scenery, appears to great advantage. The interior is fitted up with great taste and elegance ; and some of the apartments are decorated with a few select paintings by the most eminent masters. About one mile and a half to the west of Downton, is the village of Leintwardine, containing 132 houses and 675 inhabitants. In the church of tliis village are some handsome painted glass windows. Here is a well endowed Free School, founded by Sir Ed- ward Harley, and others. At the distance of about two miles to the south of Leintwardine, and four from Aston, is the village of WiGMOiifc:, where a college of prebendaries was founded by Ralph de Mortimer, according to whose will a religious house was founded at Shobden by his son Hugh, but for want of water was removed, first to Eye, on the Lugg, afterwards to Wigmore, then to Reodune, and back to Shobden ; but in the year 117y the monks finally settled in a noble mo- nastery TOPOGRAPHICAL DESCRIPTION. 13 J nastery about one mile to the north of Wigmare, Avhich Nva< built, endowed, and erected, into an ab- by of the order of St. Augustine, at the expence of liugii de Mortimer; eight of whose descendants wevt buried in the abbey church, and among them five Earls of March, all of wliose monuments %vere destroyed at the liissolution, together with the building itself to the bare vails. The annual reve- nues of tills abbey at the Dissolution were estimated according to Speed at 302/. I'is. old. In the ruins of the ab!;ey ciuirch were found, about-JO years ago, *' a stone coffin and little urn witji ashes, with some silver coin in the leaden coffin, which coniained a body perfect, but which mouldered on opening. — At the farm below, called the Abbey Grangf, remain- ed in Mr. Blount's time some ancient rooms, as the abbot's council chamber, a large room with a fair canopy of wainscot, under which the abbot sat, now two rooms for paupers ; a wreathen chain of one of the chimnies had the arms of one of the Mortimers. The buildings are since much altered. x\mong the out-buildings contiguous to the high road from Leiit- wardine to Wigmore is an ale-house, which they say was the abbey prison, now a farm." — (Additions to Camden.) A little to the west of the village, on an eminence, are the ruins of Wigmore Castle, which is now al- most enveloped bv a mantle of rich ivy. The out- ward wall is the most perfect, though a considera- part even of this is destroyed. The ruins of the keep are situated on a high artificial hill, within the area, and cliielly consist of massive fra<;ments overlooking the country, to the north and east, with much grandeur. The tmie of the original founda- tion is unknown ; it was, how(-ver, certainly previous to the reign of Edward the Elder, who is recorded to havrr repaired Wigmore. li was taken from Kdric, Earl ofShrevv->bury by Ranulph Mortimer who »;ame over with the Concjueror, aud made it iiis prin- ' M :j cipal 136 HER.EFORDSHIRE. ci.pa! seat, '* It is impossible (says Mr Gough) to ^onf.en^plate the massive niins of Wigmore Castle, tiituate on a hill in an ampliitheatre of mountains, wiience its owner coukl survey liis vast estates from 1)!S square pa'ace witli four corner towers on a keep, at the south-east corner of his double trenched outworks, without reflecting on the instabih'.y of the grandeur of a family, wh.se ambition and in- trigues made more than one English monarch un- easy on his throne, yet not a memorial remains of their sepulture." At the distance of four miles beyond Wigmore is the small village of Lyngen, near the church of which, on a mount, was formerly a castle, belong- ing to Sir Henry Lingain, who during the civil wars in the time of Charles I. in whose service great part of his fortune was expended, besieged the castle of Brampton Brian, and burnt the town, in conse- quence of which his estate was sequestered to make good the damages ; but after an inventory had been taken of his effects, Sir Robert Harley, to whose use the proceeds were ordered to be applied, u'aited on his widow, and having asked her if it was com- plete, and she had signed it, presented it to her with all his right thereto. Sir Henry haa issue by this lady (who was a daughter of Sir Walter Pye), 19 children, of whom seven daughters survived, among whom the remains of his estates were after- wards divided. At Limbrook, a small village, a little to the south of Lyngen, was formerly a cell, belonging to Avcney, in Normandy ; and at a little distance, near the left bank of the Lugg, was a Priory of nuns of the order ofS(. Augustine, founded by some of I he Mortimer family, about the reign of Richard I. and which conlinutd till the general suppression, when it had six nuns, and was valued at 221. 17s. 8c/. per annum. Ahout three miles to the north of Lytrgen, is the village TOl'OGRAI'HICAL DESCUIPTION, 1.-57 village of BiiAi-\irTON Ijrian, iu the cluircli of which is an altar tomb, green, with moss, on which lies the eftigy of a lady unknown, greatly mutilated ; and above this is a large marble tablet, in memory of Kobert Harley, fust Earl of Oxford. On the west from the church is a large and respectable brick mansion, belonging to the Harleys, and still farther to the west is a park, nearly six miles in circumfer- ence. Great part of tlie wails of the ancient castlt:; is ttill staniling, and the gatehouse, iianked by two round lowers, occupies a low situation, a little to the nortli of the church, A curious chunney, rising like a turret above the curtain, and a staircase, are tolerably perfect. This castle, which had been erected here at an early period, was the chief scat of the Ilarleys, till the civil wars in the reign of Charles I. when it was twice beseiged by the forces in the service of the king, and at length burnt and otherwise dilapidated. Nearly two miles to tlie north-east of Brampton Brian, is a perfect Ron.ian camp, called Brandon, supposed to have been the Bravineum, of the Ro- mans, and to have been occupied by Ostorius Sca- pula, previous to his decisive victory over Caracta- cus. It is of a square form, with a single ditch, near which are t\to barrows, where in the year !{)(i2 an urn was found, with a'=;hes and bones in it; and about two miles to thf- west on the other side of a small stream, is Coxall-Knoll camp, now covered with large oaks, which has been already noticed in the former part of this volume. Returning to our road, at the distance of about three miles from Lyngcn, we arrive at Stei)leton, another ancient border castle, situated on the verge of Radnorshire, and formerly belonging to the Earls of Mortimer, but now the property of the Earl of Oxford. m3 133 HEREFORDSHIRE. AGRICULTURE, &c. 'T^HE principal part of the cultivated lands of this ■^ county are under tillage ; the produce, how- ever, particularly of wheat, though very considera- ble, is not correspondent to wtiaf Qug it to be grown on soils oi such extreme fertility. Tiiis isge- jieraiiy attri!>tit^^c] to bad management, especially in the article ol nianure, whicii is seldom laid on the land in sufficient quantities, probably owing to the diificulty of obtaining it through the gr<'at demand. Several judicious farmers however have, of laie years, deviated with success from the old routine, which is thus described by Mr. Duncumb, *' A good fallow, or a clover ley, well worked, limed, and ma-, nured, produces, on an average, about 20 vVm- chester bushels of wheat per statute acre; in the following spring it- is sdwn with peas, son^etimes beans, after one ploughing, and with no manure ; tiie produoe is about l4 bushels per acre; after two ploughings, and a partial dressing, or much more frequently without any dressing whatever, it is again sown with wheat in October; and if this brush crop, as it is termed, produces somewhat more than half tiie quantity xielded by the fallow^ the grower is satislied. In the following spring it is sown with barley and clover, after two plough- ings, but still without manure ; and, as might be ex- pected from the exhausted state of the lar.d, it ge- nerally affords a very inconsiderable crop. Sheep are turned on the young clover as soon as the barley is removed. Sometimes oats, or turnips, precede the barley on a small part of the land ; and a few winter vetches have occasionally been introduced, but still without manure, or any other preparation than one or two ploughings. After mowing one crop of clover, it is fed with cattle in the spring fol- lowing, and afterwards remains for seed. The fal- lowing then re-comraeuces, and the same system is repeated. AGRICULTURE. 139 repeated. Tn this manner one thiid of thi; descrip- tion of arable land is constantly under the culture of wheat ; and that third, during its preparation for the seed (which ii sown ahiiost invariably in tiie broad- cast manner), is termed tlie odd-murkV In tiie dis- trict about Ross, lime has been used as manure with great success, so that the land thereabouts now produces great quantiiies ot barley, peas, wlieat, &c. iieretlie i^eneral course of crops is as follows : -AJieat Oil a clover ley; turnips, bailey, and seeds; after two years begin again; wheat, peas; turnips, ban ley, and seeds. Gep.erally speaking the iieaviest crops of wheal are produced in the vicinity of Here- ford, and thence through the clays towards Led- bury. The produce of wheat oi the borders of the county is iGO. and on the richer lands 200 gallons per acre; this, however, alludes to the general run of the county ; for 300 gallons is not uncommon on Wye side The major part of the county being composed of a ciavey soil, the culiivation of barley is not very general. On the sou'h ^ide of the county, where the soil is inclined to be sandy, barley, however, is a principal article, I'iie produce may beaboutfour (piaiters an acre ; but near Koss mu'Mi more. Pu'se, whether peus or beans, are sown hroad^cast. ']ne strong clayey voil is well adapted for this spe- cies of QYi)\y ; yet from the quantity produced the fact would seem to be otherwise, suice the average produce cannot l)e estimati^d at more than '25 bush- eis per statute acre. Beans are sometimes set, but not in regular ro^vs, with an intention of keeping the land clean by hoeing. Turnips are grown under as bad a general system as the wheat; they a'e often sown, witiiout ma- nure, on poor and foul lands, after one or two ploughings, and not half the quantity sown is even once hoed. Some improvements have, however, been made wiiiiin these few vcars, both v/ith respect to -140 HEREFORDSHIRE. 4o turnips and the aititicial grases ; but they are not even yet sufiiciently attended to. These improve- jnents have been made chielly through the means of an xVgricultural Society, estabhslied in this county in the year 1797. The size of farnn is in genera! extensive, the ren- tal of many of them being from 4001. to 5001. per annum ; the smaller ones arechitftiy from 30 lo lOOl. The average rent of arable land is about 13 or Hs. ihe statut<> acre. The cattle of this county are regarded, by the best- informed judges, as the most superior breed in this island. I'hey are of the middle loomed kind, with a jarge and athletic form, and from the bright and silky nature of the coating, are unusually sleek in appearance. The prevailing colour is a reddish brow/1, with white and bald faces. The rearing of oxen for agricultural purposes is a very general practice ; nearly half the ploughing of the whole county being performed by them ; they are likewise equally employed in the labours of the harvest: after having been worked about five or six years, they are generally sold, mostly in good condition, to the graziers ot tiie adjacent counties, who still far- ther improve them for the London markets. The psual time of selling them is at Hereford fair, when J 000 or 1500 are exposed for sale annually. The Hercdordshire breed ol sheep are no less cele- brated than the cattle; they are distinguished by the name of the Kytland breed, from u district in the jjouthern part of the county, where the most su- perior varieties are 'fed. "They are small, white faced, and hornless; the ev.es weighing from nine to twelve and fourteen pounds the (juarter; the we- tiiers, or zccdders^ from twcdve to sixteen and eighteen poijnds. In symnietry of shape, and flavour of their rneat, they are superior to most flocks in England ; a:)d in the (juality of their wool they are wholly un- fiyalled. 'ihey Ia;nb in February and March ; but during AGRiCULIIJRE. l4l during winter, and particularly in time of lambing, the sto;e flocks are generally confined by night in in a covered buiiding, provincially termed a co^ ; in which they are fed hoir.etiines with hay or barley straw, but much more frequently with peas-halm. Some breeders accustcm tiiem to the cot only in very severe weather and in lambing time. Manure njade from the pi'is-halm is eiiicelltnt and in larg^ quantities; whilst the practice of colting materially contributes to the health of the animal, and to the iineness of its fleece. Tiie quantity shorn from each does not average more than two pounds ; but the quality is such as almost rivals that imported from. Spain : the price is sometimes as high as thirty- three shillings the stone of 12|lb. untrinded, when coarse wool is only worth ten or twelve shillings. A cross has been made between the Ryeland and new Leicester sorts, to tlie advantage of the breeder, at least on good land, but to the detriment of the wool. The preservation of the orij^inal tineness of this staple commodity or its improvement are ob-' jects worthy of national attention : the cross between the Ryeland and real Spanish breeds seems the most probable mode ot efft'ctiiig them, and many spirited breeders are now making the experiment." — (Dun- climb's Collections.) The cultivation of hops has of late ^'ears contri- buted to raise the value of v.'oodlands ni this county to a remarkable degree, which now produces not only a sufficierxy for its own consumption, but a vast quantity is annually sent to the Severn for the Bristol and other markets, mostly used in making tioops and hop-pole-. The land preferred by the planter in this district, to be converted into hop ground, is meadow or old pasture, when it can be had ; but any land that has lain for years in grass, is preferred to arable. Herefordshire is particularly famous as a cyder country, and plantations of fruit trees are found in every l42 JIEREFORDSHIRE. every aspect, and on soil of every quality, and on- der every culture : but "the soil best adapted to most kinds of apples (says Mr. Duncumb) is a deep and rich loam, when under tlie culture of the plough ; on th\i, the trees grow with the greatest iuxuriance, and produce the richest fruit. Some trees, however, the stire and golden pippin in' par- ticular, form exceptions to tliis general rule, and flourish most in a hot and shallow soil, upon a lime or sajid-stone. 'The best sorts of pear Irecs al^ prefer the fich loam ; but inferior kinds will even flourish where the soil will scarcely produce herbage. ** The apple trees are divided into Old and ISew sorts ; each class comprises what is called Kenid Fruits; that is, the fruit growing en its own native roots, a distinction from those produced by the operation of grafting. The old sorts are the more valuable, and those which have been long introduced ; as the Stire, Golden-pippen, Hagloe Crab, several varieties of the Harvey, the Brandy apple, Redstreak, AVood- cock, Moyle]i Gennet-moyle, Red, Wiiite, and Yel- low Musks, Pauson, Foxvvhelp, loan and old Pear- mains, Dynjock-red, Ten-commandments, &c. Some of these names are descriptive of tlie fruit ; and others are derived from the places where they have been found in abundanc.e. The modern varieties de- rive their appellations from such capricious and va- rious causes, that a correct list cannot be composed : in some instances, the fruit bears a difi'erent name even in the same parish. In selecting fruits for cul- tivation, respect should be paid both to the soil and situation of the intended orchard: where both are favourable, no restraint is necessary ; but in cold situations, and unkind soils, the most early fruits are obviously those which may be expected to ac- quire maturity. The time for gathering the apples is generally about the middh; of October, but this varies ac- cording to the season, and sort of the fruit. The pre- vail in >> AGRICULTURE. | 13 . vailing practice in gathering is to beat the trees- with long slender poles, calltrd polling lif^s, and as the apples tall, women and children are employed to collect them into baskets; this mode of gathering, is, however, very delective, as both ripe and unripe fruits are thus intermixed,' which is detrimental to the producliun of good cyder. In some orchards, tiicrefore, two gatnerings are made; the lirst when the apples begin to fall spontaneously, which is a ^ sure Criterion of the ripeness ; and again when those ''ilhat were left green become sufliciently mature. The principal markets for the fruit liquors of He* refordshire, are those of London and Bristol, from whence great quantities are sent to Ireland, to the East and West Indies, and to other foreign markets ^ in bottles. '|"he price of tiiC common cyder is ge- nerally lixed by a meeting of the dealers at Here- ff.rd lair, on the 20th of October annually, and on the average of years varies from ll. js. to two gui- neas per hogshead, but ihe value of the stire cyder, even at the press, is from 31. to lil. per hogshead. Jn a plentiful year the produce of the fruit is al- most beyond conception, ihe trees beingthen loaded even to excess, and frequently break under the weight of the apples; at these thiies, indeed, the bran'che- are generally obliged to be supported oil props or forked poles. 1 his kind of excessive fruit- age, however, seldom occurs more than once in four years ; the year immltdiately succeeding being uiost'y unproductive, in ?ome uf these years of abundance 20 hogsheads of cyder have been made from tl»e produce of a single acre of orchard ground. Ihe particular era when the plantations of Bere- foidsliire ac([uired the ix'culiar eminence v;hicb they }et retain, was during the reign of Charles i. wlien, by the spirited exertions of Lord Scudamorc, atid other gentlemen of tlu- counh', tierefordshive *' bi.'-< cnine, in a manner, one entire orchard." IxNDEX TO THE xVAMES OF PLACES. Described in the County of Hereford. Aconbiiry, 85 Ally lit) ys, 115 .oeimont, 112 Berrinaton, 101 Bishop's Wood Earn ace, 96 Bradnor Mountain , 116 * Brampton Brian, 137 Brandon, ib. Bransil Castle, 123 i^redwardini', 129 Bromyard, 109 Barghope House, 106 Bury Hill, 91 Castle IJitch, 123 Clifford, ISl C^unib, 36 Comfort Castle, 99 (Jux'dliKncUCaaip 137 Cradock, 86 - C r.'isvvell Briery, 129 Croden Hill, 125 Crolt Castle, 132 DoreAhbey, 114 Dorston, 130 l)cward Hill?, 108 3)ovvnton, 134 DynedorHill, 112 DynmoreHill, 105 Kastnor, 123 Eaton, 102 ".lion Camp, 131 rloswall CastJe, r.vvi^s Harold, 113 + Ey wood, 36 [96 Flar.eslord .Priory, Foxiey, 127 Garnons, 130 Geer Copp Camp, 86 Golden Vale, 128 Goodrich Castle,92 HaiuptonCoiirt 103 Hare wood, 85 Hcntland, ib. Heretord, 38 Herelordshire Bea- con, i'ji Holm Lacev, 124 Hope, 102' Hope End, 121 Huntingdon, 116 Irchenfol'J, 86 IvingtonCamp,102 Kenclieiter, 125 Keiilchurch, 113 Kiipick, 112 ' Kiuir Arthur's Tab- iel, 130 Kingsland, 133 Kington, 1 id Eady j.iu, 127 Ledbury, 118 Leini wardine, 134 Leominster, 97 ivii)jbrook, 136 Lionsliall, 116 Longtown, 115 LoHgworth, Ji7 Lyngen, 136 jUadiey, 130 AJarcleyllill, 124 iMeendTark, 107 -Vloccas Court, 129« jMonkland, 13) 1 Mortimer's Cross, l.iS New Weir, 108 Nethcrwood, 110 Orleton, 132 Peuibridge, 36 Penibridge Castle, 108 Pen comb, 111 Penyard Castle, 91 Portway, 130 Richards Castle,97 Ross, 88 Rothoras, 112 Sapoy, 109 Sarnsteld, 128 Shobden Court 13.'i Sno(ihill Castle 129 Stepleton Castle, 137 . St. Ethelberl's Camp, 117 Stretlon, 125 Stoke Edith, 118 St. VVconards, 107 Suiion Court, 118^ Siigwas Pool, 130 Sutton \\ alls, 107 Fit ley, 36 Trew^ii House, 115 Vineyard Canijj, 123 Wall Hill, 110 VVaplev Hill, 36 Weobley, 116 White Cross, 37 Wigmore, 134 Wilton Castle, 8S Wornislcv, 117 Ill 158 00674 9310 DA 670 ^507 <%.■.' -,>;' .:*S^