THE LIBRARY OF THE UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA LOS ANGELES GIFT OF Commodore Byron McCandless / lA HimiDAL Al OTHER Mimi BY JAMES ANTHONY FROUDE. EDITED "WITH A^T IlSrXRODTJCTION BY DAVID H. WHEELEK. FUNK & WAGNALLS COMPANY New York ano London Entared, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1888, by FUNK & WAGNALLS, In the Office of the Librarian of Congress at Washington, D. C ?K CONTENTS. FASE I^'TRODUCTION, 5 y-X A Siding at a Railway Station, .... 41 7 II. Thk Norway Fjords, .... .62 III. A Cagliostro of the Second Century, . . 102 tw. Social Condition of England in the SixTiiENTii Centujry, 136 V. Coronation of Anne Boleyn, 173 VI. John Bunyan ISl VII. Leaves from a South African Journai-, . . 187 VIII. A Day's Fishing at Cheneys, . ... 232 IX. Thomas Carlyi-e and His Wife, .... 246 X. PoLTTfCAL Economy of thk Eighteenth Century, 256 XI. Heynard the Fox, 263 957381 INTRODUCTION This collection of the more popular writings of Mr. Fronde is made in order to enable a large nnmber of read- ers to obtain at small cost a good view of the merits and value of his works. His best known essays are, for the most part, left out of this volume — for example, those on Calvinism, Progress, Education, and Ireland. The editor has also passed by in the selections those writings of Mr. Froude which have been the subject of heated controversy. It is hoped that the sketches of travel, essays, and extracts from the gifted author's historical works here collected, will be found both entertaining and instructive. Believing that the reader will like to have some account of Mr. Froude and his opinions, the editor has prepared the following sketch. HIS EDUCATION. James Anthony Froude was born near Totness, Devon, England, April 23, 1818. His father was an old-fashioned High Church clergyman, and his brother, Richard Ilurrell Froude (fifteen years older than the his- torian) had already won distinction as a new-fashioned High Church clergyman when James Anthony entered Driel College, Oxford, at the age of eighteen. The younger Froude was naturally thrown l)y his family con- nections and syinpathies into the strong arms of the new reformers at Oxford. His gifted brother died the same 6 INTRODUCTION. year, at the age of tliirty-three, having produced a mass of new- reformation literature, which has since been pubh'slied in four vohiines. Jolm Henry Newman, now Cardinal Newman, had succeeded Richard Hurrell Froude as the leader of the Oxford Movement, and young James Anthony was caught up and carried along on the tide of that strange reaction. Newman mastered easily the younger men about him, and even " Newmanized some of those who had already been Arnoldized. "* Credo in Newmaniim was a profession of faith that fell from many lips. The air was full of a strange sort of spiritual electricity. Young Froude graduated in 184:0, two years later became a fellow of Exeter College, and in 1845 was ordained a deacon of the English Church. So far he had been borne along by a mighty current. Newman had invited him to assist in the work of writing the lives of the English saints. " Flattered," as he says, by the honor, he prepared in 1812 the " Life of St. Neot," which was published in the series under Newman's editor- ship. In 1815 John Henry Newman left the English for the Catholic Church ; a counter-reaction set in. Alarmed by the discovery that Newman had led them a long journey from their original faith, many of the younger men began to study the ground traversed with so much enthusiasm ; among these was young Froude. The result of his studies and reflections appears in the remarkable little book having the title " The Nemesis of Faith," first pritited in 1819. Having satisfied himself that he could not be a j^riest of the Church of England, Mr. Froude gave up his fellowship and the clerical pro- fession. Under the law as it then stood, he could not enter another profession, and having tried his hand at literature with success, he naturally joined the great * The reference is to Arnold of Rugby. INTRODUCTION". 7 pi'iesthood of the press. In liis controversy with Mr. Edward A. Freeman, the historian of the Norman Con- quest, Mr. Fronde wrote in 1879 the following account of his change of vocation : " I entered Deacon's orders in 1845. To take orders was at that time a condition for the tenure of a fellowshii^. I found myself unfitted for a clergyman's position, and I abandoned it. J did not leave the Church. I withdrew into the position of a lay member, in which I have ever since remained. I gave up my Fellowship, and I gave up my profession with the loss of my ex- isting means of maintenance, and with the sacrifice of my future prospects. Had I been ' the false prophet ' which Mr. Freeman elsewhere politely terms me — had I been as iiidiflferent to truth, as forgetful of the obligations of honesty, as he tells his readers that I am — is it likely that I should have left a beaten highway of life on which the going forward is so easy and so assured ? Is it likely that I should have selected instead to make my way across country on the back of literature, where, besides the nat- ural difficulfTl's, the anonymous reviewer is waiting to trip the unhappy rider at every fence, or clamors at him as a fool like the enchanted stones on the mountain in the ' Arabian Nights ? ' Is it a reproach to leave at such hazards a profession for which a man finds himself unqualified ? Would it not be an incompara- bly greater reproach to have yielded to the temptation and re- mained in it ? Is it not enough that the existing prejudice on this subject bars a man's way to every regular employment which he might have looked for otherwise ? Is it fair, is it tolerable, that Mr. Freeman and the Saturday lieriewer should avail them- selves of that prejudice to point to my Deacon's orders as if they were an ink-blot and a mark of shame ?" The prejudice against an honest man's change of his religious opinions has died out in this country, and lost 8ome of its vitahty in England ; but in 1850 it still had the power to deal terrible blows. No small man could have made Mr. Fronde's chanije and outlived the evil consequences of it. It will now be agreed by enhghtened men that the one and only honest thing to do was what 8 INTRODUCTION. James Anthony Fronde did when he resigned botli the duties and the rewards of an Englisli clergyman. The whip is reserved in our day for the back of the hypocrite wlio, having changed his creed still keeps his salary. We raise no question of the value of the old opinions or the new. It is only necessary to say that the more radical of the new opinions of Mr. Fronde are preached from Christian pulpits all over the world, and have been for a score of years the object of world-wide criticism and the inspiration of a vast research into the authorship, his- tory, and authority of different books of the Bible. At Oxford, Mr. Froude was held to have apostatized, not to have changed his opinions ; for Oxford did not in 1850 really believe in the right of private judgment ; in other words, it did not admit a man's right to have any opinions on questions decided by the Church. One consequence of Mr. Fronde's heroic devotion to good conscience has been a perpetual conflict between him and one section of the clergy ; and it is scarcely necessary to dwell upon the fact that in this war the historian has given as many and as good blows as he has received. To no one else will the memory of John Henry Newman be so much indebted in the next century as to James Anthony Froude ; their opinions are as wide apart as the poles, but a manly sympathy and admiration for courage, independence, and loyalty to convictions glows through the sentences in which the historian describes the leader whom he abandoned for conscience' sake. Newman's own " Apologia pro vita sua" is not worth ten hues of Fronde's essay as a vindication. In our youth we used to hear mnch abont hating the sin and loving the sinner ; it may be doubted whether many of us mastered it. An easier thing is hard for us ; we can Bcarcely condemn a man's opinions and retain affection iXTRonrcTiox. and even reverence fur the man himself. Froude abhors the sort of Roman Catliohcism whicli Newman restored to power in EngLand ; but he has given Newman such wholesome praise that the great " pervert" will need no other credentials with posterity. Why ? The tractarian agitation sent two groups of men flying on opposite roads : one group went to the Catholic Church, the other went m^t of their pulpits into the lay ranks. Both groups left ""all they had behind them. Their sacritices to the truth of their souls were and remain their common possession ; their costly renunciations of incomes and honors were and remain their conmion claim to the respect and admiration of mankind. The men whom posterity wih suspect of treachery and vindictiveness are the men who >^followed Newman to the door of the Catholic Church, but stopped outside of it, and remained in the enjoyment of their emoluments. When they strike or inspire the blows rained upon Mr. Froude, men who believe in manliness f,s the first quality in religious character — the highest proof that one has known Jesus Christ — will sus- pect that the smiters were cowardly and self-seeking in the day that tried them all as by fire. The resentments of the camp-followers, when they have any, fall upon the soldiers who win honor at the front. If there still be in the world people who do not know that a man's opinions may have the most sacred claims upon his conduct, and still be altogether vanity as measures of the truth, then such peo])lc should be placed in some school where the first principles of toleration are taught. Happily we are pretty well agreed in our respect for courage, sincerity, and self-abnegation ; and we are almost as unanimous in holding that we can admire John Henry Newman and James Anthony Froude Avithout making the smallest effort to swallow the opinions of both or of either. lU _ IJS'TliODUCTION. Mr. Fronde's life has been that of a laborious and con- scientious man of letters. Such a life has few points of interest except such as concern his work. And in the case of Mr. Froude, everything of importance except his work happened before he was thirtj-two years of age. In the essay on "The Oxford Counter- Reformation," our author gives us a glimjjse of his boyhood : "Our own household," he writes, " was a fair representative of the [clerical] order. My father was rector of the parish. He was archdeacon, he was justice of the peace. He had a moderate fortune of his own, consisting chiefly in land, and he belonged, therefore, to the ' landed interest.' Most of the magistrates' work of the neighborhood passed through his hands. If any- thing was amiss, it was his advice that was sought after, and I remember his being called upon to lay a troublesome ghost. In his younger days he had been a hard rider across country. His children knew him as a continually busy, useful man of the world, a learned and cultivated antiquary, and an accomplished artist. My brothers and I were excellently' educated, and were sent to school and college. Our spiritual lessons did not go beyond the Catechism. We were told that our business in life was to work and to make an honorable position for ourselves. About doctrine, Evangelical or Catholic, I do not think that in my early boyhood I ever heard a single word, in church or out of it. The institution had drifted into the condition of what I should call moral health. It did not instruct us in mysteries, it did not teach us to make religion a special object of our thoughts ; it taught us to use religion as a light by which to see our way along the road of duty. Without the sun, our eyes would be of no use to us ; but if we look at the sun we are simply dazzled, and can see neither it nor anything else. It is precisely the same with theological speculations. If the beacon lamp is shining, a man of healthy mind will not discuss the com- position of the flame. Enough if it shows him how to steer and keep clear of shoals and breakers. To this conception of the thing we had practically arrived." The autobiographical element in the article from which IXTRODUCTION. 11 we have just quoted brietiy will repaj' us for a momeut's further study. That Mr. Froude was misled aud bewil- dered at Oxford, and almost beoame a Iligli Churcli clergyiua'n of tlie Church of England, or possibly a Roman Catholii*. priest, under the influence of Newman, he does not say in plain Avords. He does say, however, "that it is " disagreeable to go back over our own past 4jiistakes," and that he " cannot like the sow that was Svashed, return to wallow in repudiated superstition. ' ' If these words have a taste of bitterness in them, we may find sweeter thoughts in other parts of the essay. The author repeats over and over again in new forms his practical philosophy. >. "To raise a doubt about a creed established by general accept- ance is," he declares, " a direct injury to the general welfare. Discussion about it is out of place, for only bad men wish to question the"*"rule of life which religion commends. When the Oxford movement began, England was orthodox without being theological. . . People went to church on Sunday to learu to be good. The clergy were generally of superior culture, manners, and character, who promoted honest living by precept and exam- ple. If a clergyman was poor, it was still his pride to bring up his sons as gentlemen ; and economies were cheerfully submitted to at home to give them a start in life — at the University, or in the Army or Navy." In the essay on " The Oxford Counter-Reformation," Mr. Froude recalls one of the forces which worked upon him in his young manhood. The episode will be espe- cially interesting to Evangelical Americans. " After I had taken my degree, and before I entered upon resi- dence as Fellow, my confidence in my Oxford teachers underwent a further trial. I spent some months in Ireland in tiie family of an Evangelical clergyman. I need not mention names which have no historical notability. . . There was a quiet good sense, an in- 12 INTRODUCTION". tellcctual breadth of feeling in this household, Avhich to me, who had been bred up to despise Evangelicals as unreal and affected, was a startling surprise. I had looked down on Dissenters espe- cially as being vulgar among their other enormities ; here were persons whose creed differed little from that of the Calvinistic Methodists, yet they were easy, natural, and dignified. In Ire- land they were part of a missionary garrison, and in their daily lives they carried the colors of their faith. In Oxford, reserve was considered a becoming feature in the religious character. The doctrines of Christianity were mysteries, and mysteries were not to be lightly spoken of. Christianity at was part of the atmosphere which we breathed ; it was the great fact of our ex- istence, to which everything else was subordinated. Mystery it might be, but not more of a mystery than our own bodily lives and the system of which we were a part. The problem was to arrange all our thoughts and acquirements in harmony with the Christian revelation, and to act it out consistently in all that we said and did. The family devotions were long, but there was no formalism, and everybody took a part in them. A chapter was read and talked over, and practical lessons were drawn out of it ; otherwise there were no long faces or solemn affectations ; the conversations were never foolish or trivial ; serious subjects were lighted up as if by an ever-present spiritual sunshine. Such was the new element into which I was introduced . . . ; the same uni- form tone being visible in parents, in children, in the indoor ser- vants, and in the surrounding society. And this was Protestantism. This was the fruit of the Reformation which we had been learn- ing at Oxford to hate as rebellion and to despise as a system without foundation. The foundation of it was faith in the authority of Holy Scripture. . . . Here, too, the letter of the word was allowed to require a living authentication. The Anglo- Catholics at Oxford maintained that Christ was present in the Church ; the Evangelicals said that he was present in the indi- vidual believing soul, and why might they not be right ? So far as Scripture went they had promises to allege for themselves more definite than the Catholics. If the test was personal holiness, I for my own part had never yet fallen in with any human beings in whose actions and conversation the spirit of Christ was more visibly present. My feelings of reverence for the Reformers revived. Fact itself was speaking for them. ... I felt that I INTRODUCTION. 13 had been taken in, and I resented it. Modern history resumod its traditionary English aspect." HIS WORKS. Mr. Fronde's earliest literary work was a " I-ife of St. Neot," brought out in the series of "Lives of the Saints," under the editorship of J. H. Newman. At the '^time it was written the young author was, as we should say in this country, just out of college. " When I was .asked to assist [in preparing the series], the proposal," he says, " pleased and ilattered me. I suppose now that the object was to recommend asceticism, and perhaps to show that the power of working miracles had been con- tinued in the Church until its unity Avas broken. But ^no such intention was communicated to us. We were free to write as we pleased, each on our own responsibil- ity. For'*inyself, I went to work with the assumption which I thought myself entitled to make, that men who had been canonized had been probably good men, and at least remarkable men. It was an opportunity for throw- ing myself into mediseval literature, and studying in con- temporary M'ritings what human life had really been like in this island, in an age of which the visible memorials remained in churches and cathedrals and monastic ruins. I do not regret my undertaking, though I little guessed the wilderness of perplexities into which I was throwing myself. . . I could not repeat what I found written, for the faith was wanting. Concerning the character of this Life of a Saint, Mr. Fronde indirectly gives us his own judgment, in his " A few Words on Mr. Freeman.' ?5 " Did Mr. Freeman ever read that life ? Is there any trace of fanatirism in it ? I wrote an account of St. Neot at the request of a person for whom I had a profound personal admiration, ]mt he would smile at the supposition that I was fanatical or cajjable of 14 INTRODUCTIOSr. fanaticism. In my reading on that occasion, and in my subse- quent hagiological studies, I found myself in an atmosphere where any story seemed to pass as true that was edifying. I did not like my occupation and I drew out of it." It is an interesting fact that in his essaj on " Tlie Lives of the Saints," Mr. Fronde not onlj treats the subject with decorum and dignity, but also gives a phi- losophy of asceticism which is highly honorable to the saints. " Without speculating on the why, the Christians felt that in- dulgence in animal passion did, in fact, pollute them, and so much the more if it was deliberate. . . . Christianity would present the body to God as a pure and holy sacrifice, as so much of the mate- rial world conquered from the appetites and lusts, and from the devil whose abode they were. This was the meaning of the fast- ings and scourgings, the penances and night-watchings ; it was this which sent St. Anthony to the tombs and set Simeon on his pil- lar, to conquer the devil in the flesh, and keep themselves, if possi- ble, undefiled by so much as one corrupt thought. . . . They did their work, and in virtue of it we are raised to a higher stage — we are lifted forward a mighty step which we can never retrace. Personal purity is not the whole for which we have to care : it is but one feature in the ideal character of man. The monks may have thought it was all, or more nearly all than it is ; and there- fore their lives may seem to us poor, mean, and emasculate. . . Henceforth it is impossible for us to give our unmixed admiration to any character which moral shadows overhang. Henceforth we require not greatness only, but goodness ; and not that good- ness only which begins and ends in conduct correctly regulated, but that love of goodness, that keen, pure feeling for it which resides in a conscience as sensitive and susceptible as a woman's modesty." In 1847 Mr. Froude published a volume of stories nnder the title ''Shadows of the Clouds," a work of which we have seen no copy. Ilis next book, " The Nemesis of Faith," was published in 1819, and rendered INTRODUCTION. 15 Mr. Fronde's position at Oxford so unpleasant that he resigned his career in the Church. Tlie work is a sort of novel with just enough of autobiograjjhj to be a thorn in the flesh of the author. The story is this : Sutherland, a young candidate for orders in the Anglican Church, encounters doubts, and then forms opinions which are liostile to Christianity as taught at Oxford. These opinions he expresses in the form of letters to a friend. Pressed by liis family, he surrenders his new convictions and- enters the priesthood of England ; but he will preach nothing but good behavior and sound character ; a plot is laid for him, and he is revealed as a man compromis- ing between scepticism and religion. He surrenders his living and wanders to Italy. There he seduces another man's wife, and is rescued on the brink of suicide from remorse, and falling into the arms of the Roman creed, he ends his d»ys miserably in a monastery. The autobio- graphical element is in recollections of the author's child- hood, more or less altered in every case, and in the record of doubt and struggle through which Mr. Froude doubtless himself passed. It is easy to see, too, how the young author may have considered the compromise which Sutherland makes and forecast its inevitable failure. But he never entered upon the compromising path, and all the rest of the story has no relation to his own life. At this day we may wonder how " The Xemesis of Faith" could have been read upside down. As the title implies, Faith avenged itself in the story for the dishonor put upon it by Sutherland. The man who could not believe in miracles or free will suffers a paralysis of his moral nature, and creeps into the home of a friend to desolate it. No more powerful vindication of Faith is conceivable than a fact of this kind must be ; a romance 16 INTRODUCTION. Avitli sucli afact iuits heart would be assumed, ordinarily, to have some value as a defence of Christianity. But the young author had stated the criticism of Christianity so forcibly that Churchmen could not spare a thought for the moral of the story. "What is stranger still, the book has been republished in this country under circum- stances which indicate that the jjublisher considered it a tract against the Christian religion and an apology for impurity. This American use of the book leads one to ask, quoting our author on another subject, " Is human- ity crawling out of the cradle or tottering into the grave ? Is it in nursery, in school-room, or in open man- hood ?" If there was little logic in the Churchmen's estimate of " The Nemesis of Faith,' ' there is an assump- tion that readers are fools in the estimate of the sceptical American pubhsher whom Anthony Comstock sent to a New York prison for selling indecent literature. After his retirement from Oxford, Mr. Fronde betook himself zealously to the study of English history, which liad been his favorite reading in earlier youth. The greater part of his literary work has grown out of his re- searches as a historian. Of his gi*eat book, " The History of England from the fall of Wolsey to the Defeat of the Spanish Armada," he published the first two volumes in 1856, and the last of the twelve volumes in 1869. " My motive for selecting the Tudor period," Mr. Froude wrote in 1867, " was the injustice which I conceived to have been done hy Lord Macaulay and others to the Fathers of the Eeformed English Church, to Cranmer especially, the chief compiler of the Liturgy and the author of some of the most beautiful parts of it. The very point of the first six volumes of my history was to show what unfair treatment Cranmer, Latimer, Hooper, and their com- panions in suffering had met with from modern writers. If I ap- peared as an apologist at all, it was as the apologist of Cranmer, whose character I conceived to require and deserve peculiarly INTRODUCTION. 17 delicate consideration. " These sentences are a part of the reply to the strangely reckless accusation of Mr. Freeman, that Mr. Froude always displays " a fanatical hatred toward the English Church at all times and under all characters." The most conspicuous feature of the " History of England " is the better (because fuller) light in which it places King Henry the Eighth. This sovereign and his nurperous marriages had for two centuries been the theme of general reprobation. Charles Dickens wrote the- general verdict when he described Henry (in the ", Child's History of England ") as " a great blot of blood and grease on the history of England." Such verdicts are easy, and satisfy a moral craving. We all know that there is a vast amount of evil in the world, and we like to get it concentrated in the career of some great scoun- drel whom we can lash through the world. A man who })uts a stop to this easy system of poetical justice, by showing us that we are wrapping the wrong man, is not ajjt to be enthusiastically welcomed. Mr. Froude found a great body of public documents to which preceding historians had given no attention. He studied them, and obtained in them a new view of Henry the Eighth. That new view colors and characterizes his History. Henry, in the light of the documents, is not so bad a man as we thought him ; j^erhaps Mr. Froude makes him a better man than he was ; reactions are apt to react too far. But as a work of research, as a new judgment pro- nounced upon many characters of its period, and as a model of historical style, the "History of England" deserves and will keep its large place in the esteem of the English-reading public. In 1872-74 Mr. Froude published his work on " The English in Ireland in the Eighteenth Century." The criticism of this work has been even more fierce than that 18 INTRODUCTION". which pursued the "History of England." Of both works Mr. Froude's defence is the same. He has built upon documents of a public or otherwise presumptively authoritative nature ; but in the treatment of the Irish he is at the immense disadvantage of being an English- man, and stumbles into a pitfall which is called " race." He has pronounced some judgments respecting the Irish Celts which are certainly too sweeping, and confound the innocent with the guilty. " Race" is a fiction of anthropologists, in so far as it assumes that men perform either good or bad actions because they belong to a partic- ular tribe, or because their ancestors did. No one likes to have his ancestors universally described in terms that (so far as history can know) accurately describe only some individuals of his country. Our fellow-citizens of Irish race have, not without some reason, a strong prejudice against Mr. Froude, but they ought not to overlook the fact that he has very vigorously described the misgovernment of Ireland by England in the very book which has provoked their wrath. The present volume contains a selection from that work which gives an example of the English mis- takes in Ireland, and at the same time illustrates the notions of economic science which prevailed two hundred years ago.* Our author has been for forty years a popular con- tributor to the English periodicals ; and it is in these less ambitious essays and sketches that his writings have travelled round the globe. Our busy time wants to do its hard reading rapidly ; to have opinions stated in the most condensed form that is consistent with rapid read- ing. Mr. Froude excels in pithy, clear, and vivacious statement. He is not in any doubt what he thinks ; he * See " Seventeenth Century Political Economy." INTKODUCTIOX. 19 has no hesitation in his temper ; he writes in the swift and attractive waj which the busj world tinds good. In 1867 he made a beginning of collecting his periodical work into volumes, which he calls " Short Studies on Great Subjects." In the American edition there are now four of these volumes ; and in the preface to the fourth the author tells us that it is the last of the series. -/■jOther works of Mr. Froude remain to be noticed. " Caesar, a Sketch," is an outline of the career of Julius Csesar. Mr. Froude has abundance of good company in his- high estimate of the character, purposes, and useful- ness of the founder of the Koman Empire. Research has rehabilitated the memory of Caesar with a reverent affection which the " sketch" of Mr. Froude represents m/English literature. The other great languages have many works of the same character. Mr. Froude has also outlined the'^life and character of John Bun^'^an, in a volume belonging to the series of " English Men of Letters." It is a proof cf breadth of judgment and sympathy, that Mr. Froude likes both Caesar and Bun- yan. Their manliness and force of character belong to a common ground which our author loves to feel under his feet. He believes in great good men ; there is this difference between him and Thomas Carlyle, that the latter's great men seem to most of us to be unconscion- able scoundrels. It remains to speak brieily of Mr. Froude as the biog- rapher of Carlyle, a work which he still has in hand. Our readers are familiar with the " Reminiscences," " The Letters of Jane Welsh Carlyle," and " The First Forty Years" of the rugged Northern bear ; and they also know that Mr. Froude raised a storm which might be described as a " blizzard " when he published the " Reminiscences." He probably did the best and wis«:^t 20 INTRODUCTION. thing in giving to the world just what Thomas Carlyle had thought fit to write about himself and it in his auto- biograpliical notes. The worid wants to know what kind of a human creature a great author really was ; it will never be satisfied until it finds out ; and such a mail as Carlyle it will certainly find out to the last and least of his frailties. Mr. Froude did Carlyle's memory a service by emptying at once, before any time had been spent in controversies, the contents of these diaries and note-books into literary highways. We found out at once all Carlyle's faults and frailties, and the subject has already ceased to have much interest. Mr. Froude, if he had been a small man, might have dribbled these matters out carefully and dramatically — and amassed a fortune bv economizing " the remains" of Thomas Carlyle. HIS OPINIONS. Mr. Froude b< lon^ s to the practical school of philoso- phers. He recc gniz ^s that some provisional disposition lias to be made c I the questions about nature, mind, will, and conscience, whicl . thinkers and dialecticians have wrestled with ir all ag 3S. The practical solution is that such questions a 'e bey* nd human powers. In his article on Spinoza he disposi s of that acute and courageous philosopher's m< I'als of pantheism with such sentences as this : " We are firmly i onvinced that of these questions, and of all like tl lem, pn ctical answers only lie within the reach of human faculties , and that in researches into the absolute we are )n the r )ad which ends nowhere." In the same essay writing ; of the boldness with which Spinoza makes God the author of all evil, Mr. Froude says : " We bel eve for ( urselves that logic has no busi- ness with such questions ; that the answer to them lies in INTRODUCTION. 21 the conscience, and not in the intellect.'" One of Spinoza's answers to objections is this : " When a man does this or that, God does it, but God does it not as he is Infinite, hut as he is expressed in that man^s nature.'''' To which Mr. Froude replies, speaking for Englishmen of his time : " " It is not so— we know it, and that is enough. We are well _:a^are of the phalanx of difficulties that lie about our theistic con- ceptions. They are -quite enough, if religion depended on specu- lative consistency and not in obedience of life, to perplex and teijify us. . . We do not care to have these questions answered at all. Conscience is the single tribunal to which we choose to be referred, and conscience declares imperatively that what he [Spinoza] says is not true." *' ■ ^KX the end of the critique of Spinoza, Mr. Froude points out the practical modifications of freedom of choice. " Pi'aetically we are forced to regard each other as not free, and to make allowance, every moment, for influences for which we cannot hold each other responsi- ble. . . Duties which are easy to one, another finds im- possible. . . These and other considerations considerably modify the popular view of the freedom of the human will. " But Mr. Froude is too vigorous a moralist to stop here. Whether or not we can do one thing and refrain from another, " we have a consciousness that we ought to choose l)etween them, a sense of duty, as Aristotle expresses it, which we cannot shake ofl^. This fact involves some measure of freedom, or it is nonsense. . . Somewhere or other tlie influence of causes ceases to operate," leaving men with a measure of self-determina- tion, " by the amount of which, and not by their specific actions, moral merit or demerit is to be measured. . . We refuse to allow men to be considered all equally guilty for the same faults : and we insist that there is some- 22 INTRODUCTION. where a point oi freedom. Where that point is — where other influences terminate and responsibihty begins — will always be of intricate and often impossible solution. But if there be such a point at all, it is fatal to necessitarian- ism, and man is what he has been hitherto supposed to be — an exception in the order of nature, with a power not differing in degree, but differing in kind, from those of other creatures." In his " Plea for the Free Discussion of Theological Difficulties," first pubhshed in 1863, Mr, Froude makes a beautiful and eloquent plea for Christian character in a few warm and bright sentences : " The creed of eighteen centuries," he says, " is not about to fade away like an exhalation, nor are the new lights of science so exhilarating that serious persons can look with comfort to ex- changing one for the other. Christianity has abler advocates than its professed defenders, in those many quiet and humble men and women who in the light of it and tlie strength of it live holy, beautiful, and self-denying lives. The God that answers by fire is the God whom mankind will acknowledge ; and so long as the fruits of the Spirit continue to be visible in charity, in self-sacri- fice, in those graces which raise human creatures above them- selves, and invest them with that beauty of holiness which only religion confers, thoughtful persons will remain convinced that with them in some form or other is the secret of truth. . . When a particular belief is fruitful in nobleness of character, we need trouble ourselves very little with scientific demonstrations that it is false." And yet Mr. Froude has, in the same article and in others, stated with great strength the intellectual and scientific difficulties of religion in our time. But he is always serious and reverent in his language. In the essay on " Criticism of the Gospel History," he refers to the two habits of thought which may be traced throughout history — " one giving us churches and the knowledge of INTRODUCTION. 23 God, the otlier giving us freedom and science'''- — and reminds tis that eacli regards the other as its natural enemy, lie also sees that human society is perpetually passing from tlie dominion of one to that of the other of these mental conditions, and asks : " Is this antagonism a law of humanity ? As mankind move 'upward throvigh the ascending circles of progress, is it forever (^ijB be with them as with the globe which they inhabit — of which one hemisphere is perpetually dark ? Have the lessons of the Reformation 1>een thrown away ? Is knowledge alvrays to advance under tlio ban of religion? Is faith never to cease to dread investigation ? Is science chiefly to value each new discov- ery as a victory gained over its rival ? Is the spiritunl world to revolve eternally upon an axis of which the two poles are Mate- rialism and Superstition, to l)e buried in their alternate occulta- t^ons in periods of utter darkness, or lifted into an icy light where there is neither life nor warmth ?" This passage clearly displays tlie spirit in which Mr. Froude doubts —his profound faith in religion as ex- pi'essed in Christian teaching respecting duty, and his doubt whether Christian doctrine can ever free itself from the hostility of the free scientiiic spirit. Mr. Froude belongs in both camps. He has a herculean grasp on faith in that lovely type of human character which has been bred in the English race under Christian teaching ; he holds as tenaciously with those who demand satis- factory reasons for accepting the Christian creed. Per- luips he nuiy be fairly described as a believer who is reverently fond of the fruits of faith, but much dissatis- fied with all and singular the dogmatic statements of Christianity. Certain truths of historical Christianity were put into a brilliant focus for him in the Tractarian controversy. Young Froude had to settle for himself whether Protestantism had a sound intellectual basis, or 24 IXTRODUCTIOK. ratlicr, lie liad to dispose of, once for all, the Catholic theory that Providence had made the Church a living and visible authority that could not err. lie rejected that theory in the very lire. Then it followed that all men could make mistakes, that nohody on earth is ex- empt from a liability to error. This pair of conclusions came to him in the midst of experiences which revealed their vast consequences : nothing is true because the Church teaches it, or has inherited it, or has never doubted it, or makes a foundation stone of it. In the Reformation, Protestantism appealed to the Cfesar of Reason ; but to Mr. Froude Protestantism seems to be possessed by an invincible reluctance to appear before the judge to whose bar it once dragged Catholicism for condemnation. It is easy to detect in his religious criticism a doubt whether Protestantism as a system of doctrine can endure the tierce light of Reason ; but for him the alternative would be neither Catholic infallibility nor materialism, but the "eternal religion of man's heart and conscience," •whether supported or unsupported by objective realities. In his essay on " The Times of Erasmus and Luther," he makes a still clearer statement of his religious views : " I do not myself consider that the formulas in which men express their belief are of much consequence. The question is rather of the thing expressed ; and so long as we find a living consciousness that above the w^orld and above human life there is a righteous God, who will jndge men according to their works, whether they say their prayers in Latin or English, whether they call themselves Protestants or call themselves Catholics, appears to me of quite secondary importance." All Mr. Fronde's theological oj)inions he w^ould prob- ably regard as of very small consequence. He intimates INTRODUCTION". 25 in many places that he does not value his own religious thinking very highly — not any more highly than he values that of other people. But there is one order of ideas and their forms of expression which he profoundly reverences. He perceives that mankind have climbed to their highest ideal of goodness under Christianity ; and he holds this ideal as the one perfect fruit of all human progress. Ask him to define the good man and he will describe a character which is self-forgetful and unselfish, which renounces pleasure, gain, indulgence, and all other personal advantages remote or present, in order to do nght. " The essence of true nobility is neglect of self. Let the thought of self pass in, and the beauty of a great action is gone, like the bloom from a soiled flower." In character and conduct he finds a region of certainties bor- dering a land of shadows, and he does not expect the shadows to pass. However long man may live on the earth, " the riddle of man's nature will never be ex- plained. There will be that in him yet which physical laws will fail to explain, that something, whatever it be, in himself, and in the world, which science cannot fathom, and which suggests the unknown possibilities of his origin and destiny." The practical bent of Mr. Froude's thinking is mani- fest throughout the essay on " The Oxford Counter- Kef ormation." This topic was for him a perpetual temptation to autobiography. He suffered in the fires of that controversy. But he writes of it in a temper which posterity will doubtless find calm if not impartial. Lookinir back, he sees the naturalistic and the Catholic movements starting at the same time, near the same spot, and marching off in opposite directions. While two groups of men of the same general education assailed one 2C) INTTllODUCTION. tlie foundations of Protestantism, and the other those of Christianity itself, Mr. Froude watches their conflicts, and has no sympathy with either. " For myself," he writes, " I ata convinced that they are roads both of them which lead to the wrong place, and that it is better for us to occupy ourselves with realities than fret our minds about illusions. If the Church of Rome recovers power eaough to be dangerous, it will be shattered upon the same rocks on which it was dashed three centuries ago. . . In matters of relig- ion, science can say nothing, for it knows nothing. . . So far as philosophy can see, there may be nothing in the materials of Christianity which is necessarily and certainly supernatural. And yet Christianity exists, and has existed, and has been the most powerful spiritual force which has ever been felt among mankind." The essay from which these sentences are taken was originally published in 1881 in Good Woy^ds ; they doubt- less express the mature convdctions of their author. As a historical writer, Mr. Froude has always in view the times for which he writes as well as those about which he writes, and this reference to the uses of the historical knowledge which he is imparting is openly and frankly made. There is an affectation in one school of historians of placing all events and opinions in the at- mosphere where they flourished ; but it is an affectation only, and misleads the reader who trusts its fair promises. No man of this age can reproduce the atmosphere that sur- rounded the life of Thomas Becket ; a modern education compels us to see with modern eyes and feel with modem hearts. Only the old historians can give us the old his- tories. No man living in the age which Motley describes in his " Rise of the Dutch Republic" could have written a book producing in us the emotions and reflections which Motley inspires. A historian is a man of like passions IKTRODFCTION. 27 with ourselves, and Las a personal equation to be con- sidered in estimating the things which we know by the aid of his telescope. Mr. Fronde's frankness, his very veliemence, saves us from becoming the victims of mis- leading antipathies. We know that he is a vigorous Protestant when he is writing of Roman Catholicism. We know that he has no special affection for the ideas which are described under the term Anglicanism ; and Ave know that he has" no thoroughgoing symj)atliy for the Irish Cejts, and always expresses his admiration for them witli strong qualifications. We cannot think of a man as an unbeliever who writes : " Churches exist in this world to remind us of the eternal laws > wbich we are bound to obej' ;" nor can we be hasty in condemn- ing him when he adds, " unfortunately, they have preferred in later times the*6peculative side of things to the practical. They take up into their teaching opinions and teachings which are merely ephemeral ; which would naturally die out with the prog- ress of knowledge ; but having received a spurious sanctity pro- long their days unreasonably, and become first immeaning, and then occasions of superstition. . . While the meaning is alive in them [all forms of belief, or ceremony] they are uot only harm- less, but pregnant and life-giving ; when their virtue departs they hide God from us, and make us practically into atheists." We suppose that Roman Catholics think of Mr. Froude as a sworn enemy. But he has written of parts of their Church history with most enthusiastic praise. He says : " Never in all their history, in ancient timi-s or modern, never that we know of. have mankind thrown out of themselves anything so grand, so beautiful, so useful as tlie Catholic Church once was. . . At the time I speak of the Churcli ruled the state with the authority of a conscience ; and self-interest as a motive of action was only named to be abhorred. The bishops and clergy were regarded freely and simply as the immediate ministers of the 28 INTRODUCTION. Almighty, and they seem to liave really deserved that high esti- mate of their character. It was not for the doctrines they taught only, or chiefly, that they were held in honor. Brave men do not fall down before their fellow-mortals for the words which they speak or for the rites which they perform. Wisdom, justice, self-denial, nobleness, purity, high-mindedness — these are the qualities before which the free-born races of Europe have been contented to bow ; and in no order of men were such qualities to be found as they were found six hundred years ago in the clergy of the Catholic Church." This clergy " sheltered the weak from the strong, put the serf and his lord on a common level of sin- fulness, and rose from among the people to the mitre and the triple crown, just as nowadays the rail-splitter and the tailor become Presidents of the Republic of the West."* It is easy enough for a broad-minded man to believe all that, and also to perceive that the power of the priesthood over human life exposed its members to cor- ruption. Mr. Froude also says : " But times change, and good things as well as bad grow old and have to die. The heart of the matter which the Catholic Church had taught was the fear of God ; but the language of it and the formulas of it were made up of human ideas and notions about things which the mere increase of human knowledge gradually made incredible." As faith died, corruption set in. For a time men endure corruption rather than encounter anarchy. As corruption advances, they prepare for revolt. Tlie revolution may be long delayed : "But it is with human things as it is with the great icebergs which drift southward out of the frozen seas. They swim two thirds under water and one third above ; and so long as the equi- librium is sustained, you would think they were as stable as the * " Times of Erasmus and Luther ;" Lectures delivered at New Castle, 1867. IXTKODUCTIOX. 20 rocks. But the sea-water is warmer than the air. Hundreds of fathoms down, the tepid current washes the base of the berg •, silently in those far deeps the center of gravity is changed ; and then, in a moment, with one vast roll, the enormous mass heaves over, and the crystal peaks which had been glancing so proudly in the sunlight are buried in the ocean forever." "^'The space allotted to this introduction is not laro^e ene^gli for a full review of Mr. Fronde's opinions. We Lave touched lightly upon some leading ideas that appear in li.is books. One thing deserves mention. Since he got upon his feet after the Oxford hurricane, he has been singularly consistent with himself. Many of us spend our lives without finding a solid footing. Mr. Fronde had found his in his thirty-second year, and his is still standing where he planted himself in 1850. His Agnosticism is that of a keen-eyed man, who perceives the near and in- vincible barriei's of research into the mysteries of Being. Ilis faith is an unshaken confidence in the duty and beauty of right living, lie believes that great human enthusiasms (such as asceticism) have noble meanings. He cleaves to Christianity as the purest and most purify- ing faith which the world has known. niS CONTROVERSIES. Mr. Froiule has always been a traveller studying living men with his eyes, as well as dead men with a historical telescope. He has made a lecturing tour among our- selves ; he has twice visited South Africa ; he studied the Irish of to-day during a residence in Kerry for several summers ; and one of the most delightful papers in this collection is a sketch of recent travels in Norway. The subject of his lectures in this country was ill-chosen. We are not altogether absorbed in the Irish cpiestion, and that question is no more likely to be settled by histori- 80 INTRODUCTION. cal evidence, than the qnestion of miracles is likely to be disposed of by testimony alone. But Mr, Fronde's visit strengrthened the affection which he cherishes for Americans and which Americans cherish for him. His lectures among us drew him into a controversy with Father Burke, in which the historian received some hard blows ; but in controversy, as it is ordinarily conducted among Christians, he requires no help or sympathy ; he is able to take care of himself. There is, however, one point in the attacks on Mr. Froude, from the sting of which he is entitled to such relief as the respect of candid men can give. We have found pencilled over his volumes on Ireland, which iire in use at our public libraries, gross charges that Mr. Froude is dishonest. Some of these are below notice except as facts. When, for example, one reader effervesces in a pencil note which tells us that " Froude is the son of a hick'''' (we preserve the spelhng), the commentary is not worth noting except as a proof of feeling in the commentator. But charges that " Froude is untrustworthy and dishonest" are serious, and they are the more serious that Mr. Edward A. Freeman, the historian, has made them with still greater vehemence than the pencil-marking critics who deface books in the libraries. Mr. Freeman's charges include those of the scribblers ; we will first notice the learned and accomplished critic's animadversions. In 1878 Mr. Freeman devoted ninety-eight pages in the Contempora7'y Review to demolishing Mr. Froude as a historian and as a man. lie fixed upon his victim the guilt of one mistake, two typographical errors, and three or four sins of strong language. He described Mr. Froude as dishonest and careless of truth, and as in- capable of stating anything as he finds it in a document before him. No proofs are furnished to sustain these IKTKODUCTION". 31 grave charges. The criticism is a piece of bitter in- vective. It accuses Mr. Froude of ignoring the work of his brotlier Richard Hurrell Froude from base motives, and " dealing stabs in the dark at a brotlier's ahnost for- gotten fame." The foundation for this charge is simply the omission by Mr. Froude of any reference to the fact that his dead brother had written a life of Thomas ,Becket. We have wondered, on this side of the water, wliat Mr. Froude had done to Mr. Freeman to provoke siieli an unmanly attack. Mr. Froude has, in two of his ^essays, spoken in the strongest terms of his brother's genius and power. He has never stabbed that brother's fame, so far as we Americans can discover. The two ehareres of Mr. Freeman that stick are that Mr. Froude is "^capable of mistake, and that he is sometimes too vehe- ment. Both accusations lie against every writer of ability ; an(>- in his criticism of Mr. Froude, Mr. Free- man himself has earned a degree as a master in the arts of beinij mistaken and of inaccurate vehemence. So far as Mr. Fronde's Irish critics are concerned, the controversy is mainly respecting the value of certain bodies of testi- mony. For ourselves, we have not much confidence in either set of documents or witnesses. There is some- thing in the air of Ireland that tolerates nothing but sub- jective trutli within a hundred leagues of its green shores, and makes every ohjectivefact reflect at least two totally different shapes. At all events, we should have to assume some such power to exist in the sweet Irish air before we could bcffin to harmonize the diverse and mntually Ijclligerent accounts of the facts of Irish history under English rule. Bnt candid men cannot doubt that, whether he be right or wrong, Mr. Froude is an honest man and a faithful historian — faithful t<» tlic liglits by which he is guided. 3-^ INTIIODUCTION. JIIS STYLE. Mr. Froude is among tlie best masters, living or dead, of the art of writing the English language. His sen- tences are always clean, jDlain, and complete ; there is no slovenliness, no obscurity, and no deficiency. The reader is saved all unnecessary effort, and has no need to go back and disentangle the thread of the thought in some ill- adjusted qualifying clause. He illustrates Mr. Herbert Spencer's principle of style by " economizing the atten- tion of the reader." Flowing, perspicuous, and abun- dant as Mr. Fronde's style is, it seldom attracts attention to itself. Probably most of his readers peruse his works without any feeling that they are those of a finished master of the art of writing. But a style which had only the qualities we have named would fall short of the best. Smooth and clear statement is of inestimable value ; but in the best literature there are higher qualities. To keep the homely graces of clearness and fulness, and to add to them sympathetic warmth and Imninous exaltation, so that the reader is lifted and carried as though a livinsr voice and presence had caj^tured him — that is the per- fection of the art of writing. But we appreciate recrea- tion best when we get it in moderation ; and a writer who is always on the heights, as Macaulay is wont to be, wearies us with a monotonous strain of exaltation. Mr. Froude keeps the plain road for the most part, but makes his excursions to the hills often enough to nourish an ex- pectation of these journeys, but not often enougli to make them wearisome. There is in his works no attempt at fine writing, no sustained and brilliant periods pursuing each other over a whole page. When we quote him, we must quote him for his thought as well as for his style. Some exceptions to this rule are found, however, INTRODUCTION. 33 in his earlier books— books whicli he has dropped as the unripe harvest of his boyhood. And yet " The Nemesis of Faith" shows all the good qiiahties of Mr. Fronde's style, though it has the faults which one expects in a great man at thirty. He could not produce to-day better sentences than the following, taken from that boyish "book : '"''*' The roads they have to travel are beatea in by the unscrupu- lous as well as the scrupulous ; they are none of the cleanest, and tbie" race is too fast to give one time to pick one's way." '' " It is night and day (or it ought to be) with all of us, if we ■want to keep in health. To be sure, now and then there will come a North Pole winter with its six months' frost and darkness and mock suns ; but Nature is still fair and pays them off with th^r six months of day." " The doctrinal food the Church had to offer to men of stamp like that was tJ'ut like watered chaff for the giant dray-horse of the coal-yard." " At home, when we come home, we lay aside our mask and drop our tools, and are no longer lawyers, sailors, soldiers, states- men, clergymen, but only men." " I question whether the home of childhood has not more to do with religion than all the teachers and the teaching, and the huge unfathomed folios." " No idle, careless, thoughtless man, so long as he persists in being what he is, can endure the thought of home any more than he can endure the thought of God." "The heart lies out under the breatli of Providence like the prepared mirror of the photogenic draughtsman ; the figure falls there ; it rests but a few moments, and then passes away, and no line is seen ; but the rays have eaten in and left a form which can never be effaced. By and by the acid touclics it, and there lies the image, full and faithful as the hand could paint it." "The dull, uiiiiiipasKioned voice [of conscience] was unheard among the volujjtuous melodic" of her wishes." 34 INTRODUCTION. " His moral nature had been lowered down to it before he sin- ned. . . He was surprised to find how easily .t Jay upon him." " It swept over her lacerated heart like the white squalls over the hot seas of India, with a fury too intense to raise the waves, but laying them all flat in boiling calm." " He sunk down into the barren waste, and the dry sands rolled over him where he lay." Probably no other living writer has said so many wise things welh Some of these are quoted in other pages of this sketch. We give below a small collection of his choice sayings. Most of these extracts convey opinions which will command respect if not belief, and at the same time illustrate the best qualities of the author's style. " Religion, which was a plaything to the nobles, was to the [Scotch] people a clear matter of life and death." " Away at St. Andrews, John Knox, broken in body, and scarcely able to stagger up the jjulpit stairs, still thundered in the parish church ; and his voice, it was said, was like ten thousand trumpets braying in the ear of Scottish Protestantism." " We may hope that no large body of human beings have for any length of time been too dangerously afraid of enjoyment." " Goodness, though the indispensable adjunct to knowledge, is no substitute for it." "Like the seven lamps before the throne of God, the seven mighty angels, and the seven stars, the seven sacraments shed over mankind a never-ceasing stream of blessed influences." " As a man can by no possibility be doing anything but a most foul wrong to himself in getting drunk, society does him no wrong, hut rather does him the greatest benefit, if it can possibly keep him sober." " In each of the many forms which Christianity has assumed in the world, holy men have lived and died, and have had the wit- ness of the Spirit that they were not far from the truth," INTRODLXTION. 6o *' No sane man ever raised his narrow understanding into a measure of the possibilities of the universe ; nor does any person with any pretensions to religion disbelieve in miracles of some kind. ■ " We cannot live on probabilities. The faith in which we can live bravely and die in peace must be a certainty, so far as it pro- fesses to be a faith at all, or it is nothing." 'iA general doubt is coming up like a thunderstorm against the wind, and blackening the sky." "Himself of most modest nature, he never sought greatness, but greatness found him in spite of himself."* " No one who has ever risen to any great height in this world refuses to move till he knows where he is going." " I hold that on the obscure mysteries of faith every one should be allowed to believe according to his conscience, and that argu- ments on such matters are either impertinent or useless." *' To the bishops of Normandy, Henry Plantagenet handed the rope to drag him to his death-bed of ashes." " We are embarked in a current which bears us forward inde- pendent of our wills, and indifferent whether we submit or re- sist ; but each of us is sailing in a boat of his own, which, as he is hurried on, he can guide or leave to drift." "'Pickwick,' delightful as it is to us, will be unreadable to our grandchildren. The most genial caricature ceases to inter- est when the thing caricatured has ceased to be." " We look in vain to liim [iri hie] for any in-^i^ht into the com- plicated problems of huriMnity, or for any sympathy with the passions which are tlie pulses of human life." * This is said of .Jolin Henry Newman. This sentence, be- ginning and ending with himseJf, and having a he and a him, the four pronouns among its seventeen words lopre.senting the same ])erson, is not quoted here for its beauty, but as an example of Mr. Froude's mastery over awkward combinations of worda. The sentence is clear and aninnlcd. " 36 INTKOnUCTION. " To speak habitually with authority does not necessarily indi- cate an absence of humility, but does not encourage the growth of that quality." " If religion does not make men more human than they would be without it, it makes them fatally less so." " Facts, it was once said, were stubborn things ; but in our days we have changed all that ; a fact, under the knife of a critic, splits in pieces, and is dissected out of belief with incredible readiness." "There is no person so poor in his own eyes as not to gaze with pleasure into a looking-glass ; and the prose age may value its own image in the novel." " If we were as familiar with the Iliad as with the Psalms, the words of the old Ionian singer would leap as naturally to our lips as those of the Israelite king." "At any rate, those antique Greeks did what they said. We say what they said, while in the same breath we say, too, that it is impossible to do it." " We cannot escape from our shadow, and the spirit of uncer- tainity will haunt the world like an uneasy ghost until we take it by the throat like men." " Unless men may feel a cheerful conviction that they can do right when they try — that they can purify themselves, can live noble and worthy lives — unless this is set before them as the thing which they are to do, and can succeed in doing, they will not waste their energies on what they know beforehand will end in failure." " The force by which a good man tlirows a good action out of himself is invisible and mystical, like that which brings out the blossom and the fruit upon the tree." " Prophets have passed for something as well as priests in mak- ing God's will known, and Established Church priesthoods have not been generally on particularly good terms with prophets. The only occasion on which the two orders are said to have been in harmony was when the prophets prophesied lies, and the priests bore rule in their name." INTRODUCTION. 37 " Let us build our streets of gold, and they will hide as many aching hearts as hovels of straw . . . knowledge is power and wealth is power ; and harnessed, as in Plato's fable, to the chariot of the soul, and guided by wisdom, they may bear it through the circle of the stars ; but left to their own guidance, or reined by a fool's hand, the wild horses may bring the poor fool to Phaeton's ep,d, and set a world on fire." 'i,The age of the saints has passed ; they are no longer of any service to us ; .we_rnust walk in their spirit, but not along their road." **..Tell a man that no good which he can do is of any value, and depend upon it lie will take you at your word." We will close this sketcli with a few longer passages taken from essays not given in this collection. I f / "Wherever \ve find them, they are still the same. In tlv courts of .Japan or of China ; fighting Spaniards in the Pacific, or prisoners among the Algerines ; founding colonies which by and by were to grow into enormous transatlantic republics, or exploring in crazy pinnaces the fierce latitudes of the polar seas — they are the same indomitable, God-fearing men whose life was one great liturgy. ' The ice was strong, but God was stronger,' says one of Frobisher's men, after grinding a night and a day among the icebergs, not w'aiting for God to come down and split the ice for them, but toiling through the long hours, himself and the rest fending off the vessel with poles and planks, with death glaring at them out of the rocks. Icebergs were strong, Span- iards were strong, and storms, and corsairs, and rocks and reefs, which no chart had then noted — they were all strong ; but God was stronger, and that was all which they cared to know."* " Beautiful is old ago — beautiful as the slow dropping mellow autumn of a rich glorious summer. In the old man, nature has fulfilled her work ; she loads him with her blessings ; she fills him with the fruits of a well-spent life ; and, surrounded by his * " England's Forgotten Worthies." 38 INTRODUCTION". cliildrcn and his children's (;hildrcn, she rocks him softly away to a grave, to which he is followed with blessings. God forbid we should not call it beautiful. It is beautiful, but not the most beautiful. There is another life, hard, rough, and thorny, trod- den with bleeding feet and aching brow ; the life of which the cross is the symbol ; a battle v\ hich no peace follows, this side the grave ; which the grave gapes to finish, before the victory is won ; and — strange that it should be so — this is the highest life of man. Look back along the great names of history ; there is none whose life has been other than this. They to whom it has been given to do the really highest work in this earth — whoever they are, Jew or Gentile, Pagan or Christian, warriors, legislators, philosophers, priests, poets, kings, slaves — one and all, their fate has been the same — the same bitter cup has been given to them to drink."* " The modern man's work," Mr. Carlyle says, " is no longer to splinter lances or break down walls, but to break soil, to build barns and factories, and to find a high employment for himself in what hitherto has been despised as degrading. How to elevate labor — how to make it beautiful — how to enlist the sjnrit in it (for in no other way can it be made humanly profitable), that is the problem which he looks wistfully to the future to solve for us. He may look to the past as well as to the future ; in the old Ionia he will find all for which he wishes. The wise Ulysses built his own house and carved his own bed. Princes killed and cooked their own food. It was a holy work with them — their way of saying grace for it ; for they offered the animal in his death to the gods, and they were not butchers, but sacrificing priests. Even a keeper of swine is called noble, and fights like a hero ; and the young princess of Phceacia — the loveliest and gracefulcbt of Homer's women — drove the clothes cart and washed linen with her own beautiful hands, i^ot only was labor free — for so it was among the early Romans ; or honorable, so it was among the Israelites — but it was beautiful — beautiful in the artist's sense, as perhaps elewhere it has never been. In later Greece — in what we call the glorious period — toil had gathered about it its modern crust of supposed baseness — it was left to slaves ; and * " England's Forgotten Worthies." INTRODUCTION. 39 wise men, in their philosophic lecture-rooms, spoke of it as un- worthy of the higher specimens of cultivated humanity."* " There is a legend that at the death of Charles V. the accusing angel appeared in heaven with a catalogue of deeds which no ad- vocate could palliate — countries laid desolate, cities sacked and burned, lists of hundreds of thousands of widows and children brought to misery by the political ambition of a single man. The evil spirit demanded the offender's soul, and it seemed as if mercy itself could not refuse him the award. But at the last moment the Supreme Judge interfered. The Emperor, He said, had been sent -into the world at a peculiar time, for a peculiar purpose, and Was not to be tried by the ordinary rules. Titian has painted the S&ene : Charles kneeling before the Throne, with the conscious- ness, as became him, of human infirmities, written upon his countenance, yet neither afraid nor abject, relying in absolute faith that the Judge of all mankind would do right. ' '' Of Caesar, too, it may be said that he came into the world at a' special time and for a special object. The old religions were dead, from th^Pillars of Hercules to the Euphrates and the Nile, and the principles on which human society had been constructed were dead also. There remained of spiritual conviction only the common and human sense of justice and morality ; and out ol this sense some ordered system of government had to be con- structed, under which quiet men could live and labor and eat the fruit of their industry. Under a rule of this material kind there can be no enthusiasm, no chivalry, no saintly aspirations, no pa- triotism of the heroic type. It was not to last forever. A new life was about to dawn for mankind. Poetry and faith and devotion were to spring again out of the seeds which were sleeping in the heart of humanity. But the life which is to endure grows slowly ; and as the soil must be prepared l)efore the wheat can be sown, so before the Kingdom of £Ieaven could throw up its shoots there was needed a kingdom of this world where the nations were neither torn in pieces by violence nor were rushing after false ideals and spurious ambitions. Such a kingdom was the Empire of the C!a;sars — a kingdom where peaceful men could work, think, and speak as they pleased, and travel freely among prov- * " Essay on Homer." 40 INTRODUCTION. inces ruled for the most part by Gallios, who protected life and property, and forbade fanatics to tear each otlier in pieces for their religious opinions. ' It is not lawful for us to put any man to death,' was the complaint of the Jewish priests to the Roman governor. Had Europe and Asia been covered with independent nations, each with a local religion represented in its ruling powers, Christianity must have been stifled in its cradle. If St. Paul had escaped the Sanhedrim at Jerusalem, he would have been torn to pieces by the silversmiths at Ephesus. The appeal to Caesar's judgment-seat was the shield of his mission, and alone made possible his success. " And this spirit, which confined government to its simplest duties, while it left opinion unfettered, was especially present in Julius Ca;sar himself." Mr. Fronde's career as a man of letters is a new proof that adverse circumstances are useful to men of strengtli. If he had not been driven " to make his way across coun- try on the back of literature," it is not probable that he would have so marked his journey as to interest mankind in the vicissitudes of his life. David H. "W heeler. *"Casar. A Sketch." I. ^r A SIDING AT A RAILWAY STATION. 'I- •''^OME years ago I was travelling by railway, no matter whence or wliither. I was in a second-class carriage. Wq had been long on the road, and had still some dis- tance before us, when one evening our journey was brought unexpectedly to an end by the train running into a siding. The guards opened the doors, we were told that we could proceed no further, and were re- qufred to alight. The passengers were numerous, and of all ranks ;ujd sorts. There were third class, second, first, with saloon carriages for several great persons of high distinction. We had ministers of state, judges on circuit, directors, leading men of business, idle young men of family who were out amusing themselves, an archbishop, several ladies, and a duke and duchess with their suite. Tliese favored travellers had Pullman cars to themselves and occupied as much room as was allotted to scores of plebeians. I had amused myself for several days in observing tlie luxurious appurtenances by which they were protected against discomfort — the piles of cusliions and cloaks, the baskets of dainties, the novels and magazines to pass away tlie time, and the profound attention which they met with fr(nn the conductors and Btation-masters on the line. The rest of us were a mis- cellaneous crowd — commercial people, lawyers, artists, men of letters, tourists moving about for pleasure or because tlicy liad nothing to do ; and in the third-class 42 SKETCHES FRCAI J. A. FROUDE. carriages, artisans and laborers in search of work, women looking for linsbands or for service, or beggars flying from starvation in one part of the woi'ld to find it follow them like their shadows, let them go where they pleased. All these were huddled together, feeding hardly on such poor provisions as they carried with them or could pick up at the stopping-places. No more consideration was shown them than if they had been so many cattle. But they were merry enough : songs and soumls of laughter came from their windows, and notwithstanding all their conveniences, the languid-looking fine people in the large compartments seemed to me to get through their journey with less enjoyment after all than their poor fellow-travellers. These last appeared to be of tougher texture, to care less for being jolted and shaken, to be better-humored and kinder to one another. They had found life go hard with them wherever they had been, and not being accustomed to have everything which they wished for, they were less selfish and more considerate. The intimation that our journey was for the present 'it an end came on most of us as an unpleasant surprise. The grandees got out in a high state of indignation. They called for their servants, but their servants did not hear them, or laughed and passed on. The conductors had forgotten to be obsequious. All classes on the platform were suddenly on a level. A beggar-woman hustled the duchess as she was standing astonished because her maid had left her to carry her own bag. The patricians were pushed about among the crowd with no more concern than if they had been common mortals. They demanded loudly to see the station-master. The minister complained angrily of the delay ; an important negotiation would be imperilled by his detention, and he threatened the company with the displeasure of his A SIDIXG AT A RAILWAY STATION. 43 depaitnient. A consequential youth who had just lieard of the death of his eJder brotlier vras flying home to take his inlieritance. A great lady had secured, as she liad hoped, a brilliant match for her daughter ; her work over, she had been at the baths to recover from the dissipation of the season ; difficulty had risen un- looked for, and unless she was at hand to remove it, the vn^rst consequences might be feared. A banker declared that the credit of a leading commercial house might fail unless he could be at home on the day fixed for his jefeum : he alone could save it. A solicitor had the evidence in his portmanteau which would determine the succession to the lands and title of an ancient family. An elderly gentleman was in despair al)out his young wjfe whom he had left at home ; he had made a will by which she was to lose his fortune if she married again after his dftith, but the will was lying in his desk unsigned. The archbishop was on his way to a synod where the great question was to be discussed whether gas might be used at the altar instead of candles. The altar candles were blessed before they were used, and the doubt was whether gas could be blessed. The right reverend prelate conceived that if the gas-tubes were made in the shape of candles the difficulty could be got over, but he feared that without his moderating influence the majority might come to a rash decision. All these, persons were clamoring over their various anxieties with the most naive frankness, the trutli coming freely out, whatever it might be. One distin- guished looking lady in deep mourning, with a sad gentle face, alone was resigned and hopeful. It seemed that her husband had been stopped not long before at the same station. She thought it possible that she might meet him again. 44 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. The st.ation-iiiaster listened to the complaints with composed indifference. He told the londest that they need not alarm themselves. The State would survive the absence of the minister. The minister, in fact, was not thinking of the State at all, but of the party triumph wliich he expected ; and the peerage which was to be his reward, the station-master said would now be of no use to him. The youth had a second brother who would succeed instead of him, and tlie tenants would not be inconvenienced by the change. The fine lady's daughter would marry to her own liking instead of her mother's, and would be all the happier for it. The commercial house was already insolvent, and the longer it lasted the more innocent people would be ruined by it. The boy whom the lawyer intended to make into a rich baronet was now working industriously at school, and would grow up a useful man. If a great estate fell in to him he would be idle and dissolute. The old man might congratulate himself that he liad escaped so soon from the scrape into which he had fallen. His wife would marry an adventurer, and would suffer worse from inheriting his fortune. The archbishop was commended for his anxiety. His solution of the candle problem was no doubt an excellent one ; but his clergy were now provided with a harmless subject to quarrel over, and if it was adopted they might fall out over something else which miglit be seriously mischievous. " Do you mean, then, that you are not going to send us forward at all ?" the minister inquired sternly. " You will see," the station-master answered with a curious short laugh. I observed that lie looked more gently at tlie lady in mourning. She had said noth- ing, but he knew what was in her mind, and though he held out no hope in words that her wish would be A SIDING AT A RAILWAY STATION". 45 gra titled, he smiled sadly, and the irony passed out of his face. The crowd, meanwhile, were standing about the platform whistling tunes or amusing themselves, not ill- naturedly, at the distress of their grand com])anions. Something considerable M^as happening. But they had so long experienced the ups and downs of things that tliey were prepared for what fortune might send. They 'ihd not expected to find a Paradise where they were going, and one place might be as good as another. They iiad nothing belonging to them except the clothes they 'stood in and their bits of skill in their different trades. ^Ylierever men were, there would be need of cobblers and tailors, and smiths and carpenters. If not, they ' might fall on their feet somehow if there was work to •De done of any sort. Presentl}i,a bell rang, a door was flung open, and we were ordered into a waiting-room, where we were told that our luggage was to be examined. It was a large, barely furnished apartment, like the salle d^attente at the ^Northern Ilailway Station at Paris. A rail ran across, behind which we were all penned ; opposite to us was the usual long table, on which were piled boxes, bags, and portmanteaus, and behind them stood a row of officials, in a plain uniform wnth gold bands round their caps, and the dry peremptory manner which passengers accustomed to deference so particularly dislike. At their backs was a screen extending across the room, reaching half way to the ceiling ; in the rear of it there was apparently an office. We each looked to see that our particular belongings were safe, but we were surprised to find that we could recognize none of them. Packages there were in plenty, alleged to be tlic property of the passengers 46 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. who had come in by the train. They were arranged in the three classes — first, second, and third— but the pro- portions were inverted : most of it was labelled as the luggage of the travellers in fustian, who had brought nothing with them but what they carried in their hands ; a moderate heap stood where the second-class luggage should have been, and some of superior quality, but none of us could make out the shapes of our own trunks. As to the grand ladies and gentlemen, the innumerable articles which I had seen put as theirs into the van were nowhere to be found. A few shawls and cloaks lay upon the planks, and that was all. There was a loud outcry, but the officials were accustomed to it, and took no notice. The station-master, who was still in charge of us, said briefly that the saloon luggage would be sent forward in the next train. The late owners would have no more use for it, and it would be delivered to their friends. The late owners ! Were we no longer actual owners, then ? My individual loss was not great, and, besides, it might be made up to me, for 1 saw my name on a strange box on the table, and being of curious disposi- tion, the singularity of the adventure made it interesting to me. The consternation of the rest was indescribable. The minister supposed that he had fallen among Com- munists, who disbeheved in property, and was beginning a speech on the elementary conditions of society, when silence was called, and the third-class passengers were ordered to advance, that their boxes might be opened. Each man had his own carefully docketed. The lids flew off, and within, instead of clothes and shoes and dressing apparatus and money and jewels and such like, were simply samples of the work which he had done in his life. There was an account-book, also, in which was A SIDIKG AT A RAILWAY STATION. 47 entered the number of days which he had worked, the number and size of the fields, etc. , which he liad drained and inclosed and ploughed, the crops which he had reaped, the walls which he had built, the metal which he had dug out and smelted and fashioned into articles of use to mankind, the leather which he had tanned, the clothes which he had woven — all entered with punctual exactness ; and on the opposite page, the wages which he fiafl. received, . and the share which had been allotted to .him of the good things which he had helped to ci-eate. Besides his work, so specifically called, there were his actions — his affection for his parents, or his wife and children, his self-denials, his charities, his purity, his truth, his honesty, or, it might be, ugly catalogues of sifis and oaths and drunkenness and brutality. But inquiry into action was reserved for a second investiga- tion before a higher commissioner. The first examina- tion was confined to the literal work done by each man for the general good — -how much he had contribnted, and how much society had done for him in return ; and no one, it seemed, could bo allowed to go any further without a certificate of having passed this test satisfac- torily. With the workmen, the balance in most in- stances was found enormously in their favor. The state of the case was so clear that the scrutiny was rapidly got over, and they and their luggage were passed into the higher court. A few were found whose boxes were empty, who had done nothing useful all their lives, and had subsisted !)y begging and stealing. These were ordered to stand aside till the rest of us had been dis- posed of. The saloon passengers were taken next. Most of them, who had nothing at all to show, were called up 48 SKETCHES FEOM J. A. FROUDE. together, and were asked what they had to say for themselves. A Avell-dressed gentleman, who spoke for tlie rest, said that the whole investigation was a mystery to him. He and his friends had been born to good fortunes, and had fomid themselves, on entering upon life, amply provided for. They had never been told that work was required of them, either work with their hands or work with their heads — in fact, work of any kind. It was right, of course, for the poor to work, because they could n(jt honestly live otherwise. For themselves, they had spent their time in amusements, generally innocent. They had paid for everything which they had consumed. They had stolen nothing, taken nothing from any man by violence or fraud. They had kept the commandments, all ten of them, from the time when they were old enough to understand them. The speaker, at least, declared that he had no breach of any commandment on his own conscience, and he believed he might say as much of his companions. They were supei'ior people, who had been always looked up to and well spoken of, and to call upon them to show what they had done was against reason and equity. " Gentlemen," said the chief official, " we have heard this many times ; yet as often as it is rej^eated we feel fresh astonishment. You have been in a world where work is the condition of life. Not a meal can be had by any man that some one has not worked to produce. Those who work deserve to eat ; those who do not work deserve to starve. There are but three ways of living : by working, by stealing, or by begging. Those who have not hved by the first have lived by one of the other two. And no matter how superior you think yourselves, you will not pass here till you have some- thing of your own to produce. You have had your A SIDING AT A RAILWAY STATION. 49 wages beforehand — ample wages, as you acknowledge yourselves. What have you to show ?" "Wages!" the speaker said. "We are not hired servants ; we received no wages. What we spent was our o"^Ti. All the orders we received were that we were not to do wrong. We have done no wrong. I appeal to the higher court. " - But the appeal could not be received. To all who presented themselves with empty boxes, no matter who they were, or how excellent their characters appeared to one another, there was the irrevocable answer, " Ko admittance, till you come better furnished." All who were in this condition, the duke and duchess among them, were ordered to stand aside with the thieves. The duchess declared that she had given the finest parties in the season, and as it was universally agreed that they had been the most tedious, and that no one had found any pleasure there, a momentary doubt rose whether thev mi"'ht not have answered some useful purpose in disgusting people with such modes of enter- tainment ; but no evidence of this was forthcoming : the world had attended them because the world had nothing else to do ; and she and her guests had been alike unprofitable. Thus the large majority of the saloon passengers was disposed of. The minister, the ai'ch- bishop, the lawyer, the banker, and others, who, al- though they had no material work credited to tiiem, had yet been active and lal^orious in their dilferent callings, were passed to the superior judges. Our turn came next — ours of the second class — and a motley gathering we were. Busy we must all have been, from the multitude of articles which we found assigned to us. Manufa{;turers with their w^ares, solicitors witli tliuir lawsuits, doctors and clergymen with the bodies aTn! 50 SKETCHES I'ROM .!. A, FKOUDE. souls which they had saved or lost, authors with their books, painters and sculptors with their pictures and statues. But the hard test was applied to all that we had produced — the wages which we had received on one side, and the value of our exertions to mankind on the other — and imposing as our performances looked when laid out to be examined, we had been paid, most of us, out of all proportion to what we were found to have deserved. I was reminded of a large compartment in the Paris Exhibition, where an active gentleman, wishing to show the state of English literature, had collected copies of every book, review, pamphlet, or newspaper which had been published in a single year. The bulk was overwhelming, but the figures were only decimal points, and the worth of the whole was a fraction above zero. A few of us were turned back summarily among the thieves and the fine gentlemen and ladies : specula- tors who had done nothing but handle money which had clung to their fingers in passing through them, divines who had preached a moraUty which they did not prac- tise, and fluent orators who had made speeches which they knew to Ijo nonsense, philosophers who had spun out of moonshine systems of the universe, distinguished pleaders who had defeated justice wliile they estalJished points of law, writers of books upon subjects of which tliey knew enough to mislead their readers, purveyors of luxuries which had added nothing to human health or strength, physicians and apothecaries who had pretended to knowledge which they knew that they did not pos- sess — these all, as the contents of their boxes bore M'itness against them, w^ere thrust back into the rejected herd. There were some whose account stood better as having vit \east produced somctliing of real merit, but they wcru A SIDING AT A RAILWAY STATIOX. 51 cast on the point of wages ; modest excellence Lad come badly off ; the plansible and niiscrnpulons had thriven and grown rich. It was tragical, and evidently a snr- prise to most of us, to see how mendacious we had been : how we had sanded our sugar, watered our milk, scamped our carpentering and mason's work, literally and meta- phorically ; how in all things we had been thinking less of producing good work than of the profit which we could make out of it ; how we had sold ourselves to tell lies and act them, because the public found lies pleasant and tnith expensive and troublesome. Some of us were manifest rogues, who had bought cheap and sold dear, had used false measures and weights, had made cotton pass for wool, and hemp for silk, and tin for silver. The American pedlar happened to be in the party w^lio had pUt a rind upon a grindstone and had sold it as a cheese. These werq. promptly sifted out and placed with their fellows ; only persons whose services were on the whole greater than the pay which they had received were allowed their certificates. When my own ])ox was opened, I perceived that though the wages luul ])oen small the work done seemed smaller still, and I was surprised to find myself among those who had passed. The whistle of a train was heard at this moment coming in upon the nuiin line. It was to go on in half an hour, and those who had been turned back were told that they were to proceed by it to the pla(;e wliere they liad been originally going. Tliey looked infinitely relieved at the news ; but, before they started, a few questions had to be put to them, and a few alterations made which were to affect their future. They were asked to explain how they haetween the stems where the universal whortleberry hides the stones under the most brilliant green. The short fjords and the large are identical in general features, save that, lying at right angles to the prevailing winds, the surface of these lateral waters is usually un- disturbed by a single ripple ; the clouds may be racing over the high ridges, but down below no breath can reach. Hence the light is undispersed. The eye, instead of meeting anywhere with white water, sees only rocks,;woods, and cataracts reversed as in a looking- glass. This extreme stillness, and the optical results of it, are the cause, I suppose, of the gloom of JS^orwegian landscape- j)ainting. How these fjords were formed is, I believe, as yet undetermined. Water has furrowed the surface of the globe into many a singular shape ; water, we are told, cut out the long gorge below Niagara ; but water, acting as we now know it, scarcely scooj^ed out of the hardest known rock these multitudinous fissures so uniform in character between walls which pierce the higher strata of the clouds, between cliffs which in some places rise, as in the Geiranger, perpendicular for a thousand feet ; the fjords themselves of such extraoi'dinary depth, and deepest always when furthest from the sea. Where they enter the Atlantic, there is bottom generally in a hundred fathoms. In the Sogne, a hundred miles inland, you find seven hundred fathoms. Rivers cut- ting their way through rock and soil could never have THE NORWAY FJORDS. 65 achieved such work as this. Ice is a mighty thaiimatur- gist, and ice has been busy enough in Norway. The fjords were once filled with ice up to a certain level ; the level to which it rose can be traced on the sharp angles ground off the rounded stone, and the scores of the glacier plane on the polished slabs of gneiss or granite. But at some hundreds of feet above the pre^-ent water-line the ice action ends, and cliffs and crags are scarred and angular and weather-splintered to where they are lost in the eternal snow. The vast moraines which occasionally block the valleys tell the same story. The largest that I saw was between four and five hundred feet high, and we have to account for chasms which, if we add the depth of the water to the height of the mountains above it, are nine thousand feet frr-m the bottom to the mountain crest. The appeara*ice of Korway is precisely what it would have been if the surface had cracked when cooling into a thousand fissures, longitudinal and diagonal, if these fissures had at one time been filled with sea-water, at another with ice, and the sides above the point to which the ice could rise had been chipped and torn and weather-worn by rain and frost through endless ages. Whether this is, in fact, the explanation of their form, philosophers will in good time assure themselves ; mean- time, this is what they are outwardly like, which for present purposes is all that need be required. A country so organized can be traversed in no way so conveniently as by a steam yacht, which carries the four- and-twenty winds in its boiler. It is not the romance of yachting ; and the steamer, beside the graceful schooner with its snowy canvas, seems prosaic and mechanical. The schooner does well in the open water with free air and sea room ; but let no schooner venture into the 66 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FKOUDE. Norway fjords, where slant winds come not by which you can make a course by a long reach, where there is either a glassy calm or a wind blowing up or down. If you reached the end of the Sogne yon might spend a season in beating back to the sea alone, and, except in some few spots where you might not be able to go, you cannot so much as anchor for the depth of water. Shut in among these mountains, you may drift, becalmed in a sailing yacht for weeks together, while to a steamer the course is as easy and sure as to a carriage on a turn- pike road. Your yacht is your house, and like a wishing carpet, it transports you wherever you please to go, and is here and there and anywhere. You note your posi- tion on the chart ; you scan it with the sense that the world of Norway is all before you to go where you like ; you choose your next anchoring-place ; you point it out to the pilot ; you know your speed — there is no night in the summer months — you dine ; you smoke your evening cigar ; you go to your berth ; you find yourself at breakfast in your new surroundings. So then, on that June evening, we steamed out of the Solent. Our speed in smooth water was ten knots ; our distance from Udsire light, for which our course was laid, was seven hundred miles. It was calm and cloud- less, but unusually cold. When night brought the stars we saw the comet high above us, the tail of him point- ing straight away from the sun, as if the head was a lens through which the sun^s rays lighted the atoms of ether behind it. Sleep, which had grown fitful in the London season, came back to us at once in our berths unscared by the grinding of the screw. We woke fi'esh and elastic when the decks were washed. The floors of the cabins lifted on hinges, and below were baths into which the sea-water poured till we could float in it. THE NORWAY TJORUS. 67 "When we came up and looked about us we were running past the North Forehmd. With the wind aft and the water smooth we sped on. I lay all the morning on a sofa in the deck cabin, and smoked and read Xenophon's " Memorabilia." So one daj passed, and then another. On the evening of July 2d we passed through a fleet of English trawlers, a few units of the ten thousand feeders of the London stomach, the four million human beings within the bills of mortality whom the world combines to nourish. We were doino- two hundred miles a day. The calm continued, aiul the ladies so far had suffered nothing. There was no motion save the never-resting heave of the ocean swell. Homer had observed that long undulation ; Ulysses felt it when coming back from Hades to Circe's island. The thing is the same, though the word ocean has changd its meaning. To ilomer ocean was a river which ran ]xist the grove of Proserpine. It was not till the ship had left the river mouth for the open sea that she lifted on the wave.* On the third afternoon the weather changed. The cold of the high latitude drove us into our winter clothes. The wind rose from the north-west, bringing thick rain with it, and a heavy beam sea. The yacht rolled twenty degrees each way. Long steamers, with- out sails to steady them, always do roll, but our speed was not altered. We passed lldsire light on the 3d, at seven in the evening, and then groped our way slowly, for, though there was no longer any night, we could see little for fog and mist. At last we picked up a pilot who brought us safely into the roadstead at Bergen, * KvTap knti norafioio "klnev (i6ov 'QKcnvolo N»/uf, and d' Uero avfja QaXfiaaiji evfjVKdfjoio. Odjasvij, xii. 1, 'i. 68 SKETCHES FROM J. jl. FROUDB. where we were to begin our acquaintance with Norway. It stands fifteen miles inland, with three fjords leading to it, built on a long tongue of rock between two inlets, and overhung with mountains. There is a great trade there, chiefly in salt fish, I believe — any way the forty thousand inhabitants seemed, from the stir on shore and in the harbor, to have plenty to occupy them. We landed and walked round. There are no handsome houses, but no beggars and no signs of poverty. " You have poor here," I said to a coal merchant, who came on board for orders, and could speak English. " Poor ?" he said ; " yes, many ; not, of course, such poor as you have in England. Everyone has enough to eat." To our sensations it was extremely cold — cold as an English January. But cold and heat are relative terms ; and an English January might seem like summer after Arctic winters. The Bergen people took it to be summer, for we found a public garden where a band played ; and there were chairs and tables for coffee out of doors. Trees and shrubs were acclimatized. Lilacs, acacias, and horse-chestnuts were in flower. There were roses in bud, and the gardeners were planting out geraniums. We saw the fish market ; everywhere a curious place, for you see there the fish that are caught, the fishermen who catch them, with their boats and gear, the market- women, and the citizens who come to buy. It is all fish in Bergen. The teleg-rams on the wall in the Bourse tell you only how fish are going in Holland and Den- mark. The trade is in fish. On the rocks outside the town stand huge stacks, looking like bean-stacks, but they are of dried cod and ling. The streets and squares smell of fish. A steamer bound for Hull lay close to us in the roadstead, which to leeward might have been winded for a mile. Lads stagger about the streets cased THE NORWAY FJORDS, 69 between a pair of halibuts, like the Chelsea paupers between two advertisement boards inviting us to vote or Sir Charles Dilke at an election. Still, excepting the odors, we liked Bergen well. You never hear the mendicant whine there. Those northern people know how to work and take care of themselves, and loafers can find no living among them, 1 do not know whether the}»p is so much as a beggar in the whole town. Thej are quiet, simple, industrious folk, who mind their o"«ti business. For politics they care nothing, not supposing that on this road is any kind of salvation for them. They are Lutherans, universally Lutherans. It is the national religion, and they are entirely satisfied with it. Prot- estant dissent is never heard of. There is a Catholic church in Bergen for the foreign sailors, but 1 doubt if the priests have converted a single Norwegian. They are a people already moderately well-to-do in body and mind, and do not need anything which the priests could give them. The intellectual essentials are well looked after — the schools are good, and well attended. The Bergen museum is a model on a small scale of what a local museum ought to be, an epitome of Norway itself past and present, Perliaps there is not another in Europe so excellent of its kind. In the gallery of antiquities there is the Norway of the sea-kings. Runic tablets and inscriptions, chain armor, swords, and clubs, and battleaxes, pots of earthenware, stone knives and hammers of a still earlier age. There are the traces of their marauding expeditions, Greek and Italian statu- ettes, rings, chains, bracelets, and drinking-cups, one or two of these last especially curious, for glass was rare and precious wdien they were made. The glass has been broken, and pieced with silver. These obviously were the spoils of some cruise in the Mediterranean, and thero 70 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. is old clmrcli plate among tlieni which also tells its stoiy. By the side of these are the implements of the Norseman's other trade — fishing : specimens of nets, lines, hooks, spears, and harpoons, for whale and walrus, and crossbows, the barbed arrow having a line attached to it for shooting seals. In the galleries above is a very comj)lete collection of the Scandinavian mammalia — wolves, bears, lynxes, foxes, whales, seals, and sea- horses, every kind of fish, every bird, land or water, all perfectly well classified, labelled, and looked after, Superior persons are in charge of it, who can hold their own with leading naturalists of France or England ; and all this is maintained at modest cost by the Bergen corporation. The houses are plain but clean ; no dirt is visible anywhere, and there is one sure sign of a desire to make life graceful. The hardiest flowers only will grow out of doors, but half the windows in the towni are filled with myrtles, geraniums, or carnations. With the people themselves we had little opportunity of acquaint- ance ; but one evening, the second after our arrival, we were on deck after dinner between ten and eleven in the evening. The sunshine was still on the hills. Though chilly to us, the air was warm to Bergen ; the bay was covered with boats ; family groups of citizens out enjoy- ing tiiemselves ; music floating on the water and songs made sweet by distance ; others were anchored fishing. X rowed me out in the yacht's punt to a point half a mile distant. We brought up at an oar's length from some young ladies with a youth in charge of them. Some question asked as an excuse for conversation was politely answered. One of them spoke excellent Eng- lish ; she was a lively, clever girl, had been in Ireland, and was quick with repartee, well bred and refined THE lirORWAY FJ0KD3. 71 Their manners were faultless, but they fished as if thej had been bred to the trade. Tliey had oilskin aprons to save their dresses, and they pulled up their fish and handled their knives and baits like professionals. Our first taste of i^orway, notwithstanding the perfume of salt ling, was very pleasant ; but we had far to go — as far as Lofoden if we could manage it — and we might no*; loiter. "VVe left Bergen on the Gth with a local pilot. Trondhjem or Drontheim was the next point where we were to expect letters, and two courses lead to it—teither by the open sea outside the shoals and islands, or inland by the network of fjords, longei" but infinitely the most interesting, with the further merit of water perfectly smooth. We started at six in the morning and fley on rapidly among tortuous channels, now sweeping through a passage scarcely wider than the yacht's length, now bursting •♦nto an archipelago of islets. The western coast of Norway is low and level — a barren, undulating country, with the sea flowing freely through the hollows. Here and there are green patches of meadow with a few trees, where there woiild be a bonder's or yeoman's farm. Prettily painted lighthouses with their red roofs marked our course for us, and a girl or two would come out upon the balconies to look at us as we rushed by within a gunshot. Eider-ducks flashed out of the water, the father of the family as usual the first to fly, and leaving wife and children to take care of themselves. Fishing-boats crossed us at intervals, and now and then a whale spouted : other signs of life there were none. Toward midday we entered the Sogne Fjord ; we turned eastward toward the great mountain ranges ; and, as in the fairy tale the rock opens to tlie enchanted prince, and he finds himself amid gardens and palaces, so, as we ran on seemingly upon an impenetrable wall, cliff and 72 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. crag fell apart, and wc entered on what might be de- scribed as an infinite extension of Loch Lomond, save only that the mountains were far grander, the slopes more densely wooded, and that, far uj), we were looking on the everlasting snow, or the gi'een glitter of the glaciers. On either side of us, as we steamed on, we crossed the mouths of other fjords, lateral branches precisely like the parent trunk, penetrating, as we could see upon oui chart, for tens of miles. Norse history grew intelligible as we looked at them. Here were the hiding-places where the vikings, wickelings, hole-and-corner pirates, ran in with their spoils ; and here was the explanation of their roving lives. The few spots where a family could sustain itself on the soil are scattered at intervals of leagues. The woods are silent and desolate ; wild animals of any kind we never saw ; hunting there could have been none. The bears have increased since the farming introduced sheep ; but a thousand years ago, save a few reindeer and a few grouse and ptarmigan, there was nothing which would feed either bear or man. Few warm-blooded creatures, furred or feathered, can endure the w^inter cold. A population cannot live by fish alone, and thus the Norsemen became rovers by necessity, and when summer came they formed in fleets and went south to seek their sustenance. The pine forests were their arsenal ; their vessels were the best and fastest in the world ; the water was their only road ; they were boatmen and seamen by second nature, and the seacoasts within reach of a summer outing were their natural prey. We were looking for an anchoring-place where there was a likelihood of fishing ; we had seen an inlet on the chart, turning out of the Sogne, which looked promising. At the THE NORWAY FJORDS. 73 upper end two rivers appeared to run into it out of fresh water lakes close by ; conditions likely to yield salmon. It was our first experiment, A chart is flat. Imagination, unenlightened by experience, had pictured tlie fjord ending in level meadows, manageable streams winding through them, and, beyond, perhaps, some Rydal or Grasmere lying tranquil among its hills. The pilot said that he knew the place, but could give us no description of it. Anticipation generally makes mistakes on such occasions, but never were fact and fancy more startlingly at variance. Lord Salisbury advised people to study geography on large maps. Flat charts are more con- venient than models of a country in relief, but they are treacherous misleaders. Grand as the Sogne had been, the inlet where we struck into it was a-rander still. The forests on the shores were denser, the slopes steeper, the cliffs and peaks soaring up in more stupendous majesty. "We ran on thus for eight or ten miles ; then, turning round a projecting spui", we found ourselves in a land- locked estuary smooth as a mirror, the mountains on one side of it beautiful in evening sunlight, on the other darkening the water with their green purple shadows ; at the far extremity, which was still five miles from us, a broad white line showed, instead of our "meadow stream," where a mighty torrent was pouring in a cataract over the face of a precipice into the sea. At the foot of this fall, not three hundred yards from it (no bottom was to be found at a greater distance), we anchored half an hour later, and looked about us. We were in the heart of a primitive Norwegian valley, buried among mountains so lofty and so unbroken that no road had ever entered, or could enter it. It was the first of many which we saw afterward of the same type, and one description will serve for all. 74 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. We Avere in a circular basin at the head of a fjord. In front of us was a river as large as the Clyde rushing out of a chasm a thousand feet above us, and plunging down in boiling foam. Above this chasm and inacces- sible, was one of the lakes which we had seen on the chart, and in which we had expected to catch salmon. The mountains round were, as usual, covered with wood. At the foot of the fall, and worked by part of it, was a large saw-mill with its adjoining sheds and buildings. The pines were cut as they were wanted, floated to the mill and made into planks, vessels coming at intervals to take them away. The Norwegians are accused of wast- ing their forests with these mills. We could see no signs of it. In the first place, the sides of the fjords are so steep that the trees can be got at only in com- paratively few places. When they can be got at, there is no excessive destruction ; more pines are annually swept away by avalanches than are consumed by all the mills in ]S"orway ; and the quantity is so enormous that the amount which men can use is no more likely to exhaust it than the Loch Fyne fishermen are likely to exhaust the herring shoals. On the other side of the basin where we lay was the domain of the owner of the mill. Though the fjord ended, the great ravine in which it was formed stretched, as we could see, a couple of miles further, but it had been blocked by a moraine which stretched across it. The moraines, being formed of loose soil and stones deposited by ice in the glacial period, are available for cultivation and are indeed excellent land. There were forty or fifty acres of grass laid up for hay, a few acres of potatoes, a red-roofed, sunny farmhouse with large outbuildings, carts and horses moving about, poultry crowing, cattle grazing, a boat-house and platform where a couple of lighters were THE NORWAY FJORDS. 75 unloading. Here was the house of a substantial, pros- perous bonder. His nearest neighbor must have been twelve miles from him. He, his children, and farm- servants were the sole occupants of the valley. The saw- mill was theirs ; the boats were theirs ; their own hands supplied everything which they wanted. They were their own carpenters, smiths, masons, and glaziers ; they sheared their own sheep, spun and dyed their own wool, wove their own cloth, and cut and sewed their own dresses. It was a true specimen of primitive Norwegian life complete in itself — of j)eaceful, quiet, self-sufficient, prosperous industry. The snake that spoiled Paradise had doubtless found its way into Nord Gulen (so our valley was named) as in,to other places, but a softer, sweeter-looking spot we had none of us ever seen. It was seven in the evening when we anchored ; a skiff came off, rowed by a couple of plain, stout girls with offers of eggs and milk. Fishing-lines were brought out as soon as the anchor was down. The surface water was fresh, and icy cold as coming out of the near glaciers ; but it was salt a few fathoms down, and almost immediately we had a basket of dabs and whiting. After dinner, at nine o'clock, with the sun still shining, X and I went ashore wath our trout-rods. We climbed the moraine, and a narrow lake lay spread out before us, perfectly still, the sides steep, in many places precipitous, trees growing wherever a root could strike. The lake was three miles long, and seemed to end against the foot of a range of mountains five thousand feet high, the peaks of which, thickly covered with snow, were flushed with the crimson light of the evening. The surface of the water was spotted with rings where the trout were rising. One of the bonder's 76 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. bojs, who had followed us, offered his boat. It was of native maniifacture, and not particularly water-tight, but we stowed ourselves, one in the bow and the other in the stern. The boy had never seen such rods as ours ; he looked incredulously at them, and still more at our flies ; Ijut he rowed us to the top of the lake, where a river came down out of the snow-mountain, finishing its descent with a leap over a cliff. Here he told us there were trout if we could catch them ; and he took us deliberately into the spray of the waterfall, not under- standing, till we were nearly wet through, that we had any objection to it. As the evening went on the scene became every minute grander and more glorious. The sunset colors deepened ; a crag just over us, two thou- sand feet high, 'stood out clear and sharp against the sky. We stayed for two or three hours, idly throwing out flies and catching a few trout no longer than our hands, thereby confirming evidently our friend's impres- sion of our inefficiency. At midnight we were in the yacht again — midnight, and it was like a night in Eng- land at the end of June five minutes after sunset. This was our first experience of a Norway fjord, and for myself I would have been content to go no further ; have studied in detail the exquisite beauty which was round us ; have made friends with the bonder and his household, and found out what they made of their existence under such conditions. There in epitome would have been seeing !N^orway and the Norwegians. It was no Arcadia of piping shepherds. In the summer the young men are away at the mountain farms, high grazing-ground underneath the snow-line. The women work with their brothers and husbands, and weave and make the clothes. They dress plainly, but with good taste, with modest embroidery ; a handsome bag hangs THE NORWAY FJORDS. 77 at the waist of tlie housewife. There is reading, ftoo, and schohirship. A boy met tis on a pathway, and spoke to us in Englisli. "We asked him when he had been in England. He had never been beyond his own valley ; in the long winter evenings he had taught him- self with an English grammar. Ko wonder that with such ready adaptabilities they made the best of emi- gKants. The overflow of population which once directed itself in such rude fashion on I^ormandy and England now finds its way to the United States, and no incomers are^ more welcome there. But a steam yacht is for movement and change. We were to start again at noon the next day. The morning was hot and bright. While the engineer was getting up Bteain, we rowed to the foot of the great fall. I had my small trout-rod with me, and trolled a salmon tly on the chance. -.There were no salmon there, but we saw brown trout rising ; so 1 tried the universal favorites — a March brown and a red spinner — and in a moment had a fish that bent the rod double. Another followed, aad another, and then I lost a large one. I passed the rod to X , in whose hands it did better service. In an hour we had a basket of trout that would have done credit to an Englisli chalk stream. The largest was nearly three pounds weight, admirably grown, and pink ; fattened, I suppose, on the mussels which paved the bottom of the ra])ids. We were off immediately after, still guided to a a new point by the chart, but not in this instance by the chart only. There was a spot which had been discovered the year before by the Duke of , of which we had a vague description. We had a log on board which iiad been kept by the duke's mate, in which he had recorded many curious experiences ; among the rest, an adventure at a certain lake not very far from where wo were. Tho 78 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FEOUDE. duke had been successful there, and liis lady had been very nearly successful. "We had grief yesterday, "- the mate wrote, "her Grace losing a twelve-pound salmon which she had caught on her little line, and just as they were going to hook it, it went off, and we were very sorry." The grief w^ent deep, it seemed, for the next day the crew were reported as only " being as well as could be expected after so melancholy an accident." We determined to find the j)lace, and, if possible, avenge her Grace. We crossed the Sogne and went up into the Nord Fjord — of all the fjords the most beautiful ; for on either side there are low terraces of land left by glacier action, and more signs of culture and human habita- tions. After running for fifty miles, we turned into an inlet, corresponding tolerably M'ith the duke's directions, and in another half hour w^e were again in a mountain basin like that which we had left in the morning. The cataracts were in their glory, the day having been warm for a wonder. I counted seventeen all close about us when we anchored, any one of which would have made the fortune of a Scotch hotel, and would have been celebrated by Mr. Murray in pages of passionate elo- quence. But Stromen or "the Streams," as the place # was called, was less solitary than Nord Gulen. There was a large bonder's farm on one side of us. There was a cluster of houses at the mouth of a river, half a mile from it. Above the village was a lake, and at the head of the lake an establishment of saw-mills. A gunshot from where we lay, on a rocky knoll, was a white wooden church, the Sunday meeting-place of the neighborhood ; boats coming to it from twenty miles round bringing families in their bright Sunday attire. Roads there were none. To have made a league of road among such rocks and precipices would have cost the state a year's THE NORWAY FJORDS, 79 revenue. But the water was the best of approaches, and boats the cheapest of carriages. We called on the chief bonder to ask for leave to fish in the lake. It was granted with the readiest courtesy ; but the Norsemen are proud in their way, and do not like the English- man's habit of treating all the world as if it belonged to him. The low meadows round his house were bright with flowers : two kinds of wild geranium, an exquisite vanety of harebell, sea-pride, pansies, violets, and the great pinguicola. Among the rocks were foxgloves in full splendor, and wild I'oses just coming into flower. The roses alone of the Norway flora disappointed me ; the leaves are large, dark, and handsome ; the flower is insignificant, and falls to pieces within an hour of its opening. We were satisfied that we were on the right sp6t. The church stood on a peninsula, the neck of which immedi^ately adjoined our anchorage. Behind it was the lake which had been the scene of the duchess's misfortune. We did not repeat our midnight experi- ment. We waited for a leisurely breakfast. Five of the crew then canned the yacht's cutter through fifty yards of buslies ; and we were on the edge of the lake itself, which, like all these inland waters, was glassy, still, deep, aiid overhung with precipices. The bonder had suggested to us that there were bears among them, which we nn'ght kill if we pleased, as they had just eaten seven of his sheep. So little intention had we of shooting bears that we had not brought rifle or even gun with us. Our one idea was to catch the duchess's tu'clve-pound salmon, or, if not that one, at least another of his kindred. In a strange lake it is well always to try first with '^pinm'ng tackle, a bait trolled with a long line from the stern of a boat rowed slowly. It will tell you if there 80 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. are fish to be cauglit ; it will find out for you where the fish most haunt, if there are any. We had a curious experience of the value of this method on a later occa- sion, and on one of our failures. We had found a lake joined to an arm of a fjord by a hundred yards only of clear running water. We felt certain of finding salmon there, and if we had begun with flies we might have fished all day and have caught nothing. Instead of this we began to spin. In five minutes we had a run ; we watched eagerly to see what we had got. It was a whiting pollock. We went on. We hooked a heavy fish. We assured ourselves that now we had at least a trout. It turned out to be a cod. The sea fish, we found, ran freely into the fresh water, and had chased trout and salmon completely out. At Stromen we were in better luck. We started with phantom minnows on traces of strong single gut, forty yards of line, and forty more in reserve on the reel. Two men rowed us up the shore an oar's length from the rocks. Something soon struck me. The reel flew round, the line spun out. In the wake of the boat there was a white flash, as a fish sprang into the air. Was it the duchess's salmon ? It was very like it, anyuay ; and if we had lost him, it would have been entered down as a salmon. It proved, however, to be no salmon, but a sea trout, and such a sea trout as we had never seen ; not a bull trout, not a peel, not a Welsh sewin, or Irish white trout, but a Nor- wegian, of a kind of its own, different from all of them. It was the first of many which followed, of sizes varying from three pounds to the twelve pounds which the mate had recorded ; fine, bold, fighting fish, good to look at, good to catch, and as good to eat when we tried them. Finally, in the shallower water, at the upper end, a fish took me, which from its movements THE NORWAY FJORDS. 81 was something else, and proved to l)e a large char, like what they take in Derwent- water, only four times the weight. Looking carefully at the water we saw more char swimming leisurely near the surface, taking flies. We dropped our spinning tackle, and took our fly rods ; and presently we were pulling in char, the blood royal of the salmonidse, the elect of all the flnned children of the, fresh water, as if they had been so many Thames chub. Wliat need to talk more of fish ? The mate's log had guided us well. We caught enough and to spare, and her Grace's wrongs were avenged sufiiciently. We landed for our frugal luncheon, but we sate in a bed of whortleberries, purple with ripe fruit, by a cascade which ran down out of a snow-field. Horace would have invited his dearest friend to share in such a ban- quet. -. The next day was Sunday. The sight of the l)oats coming from all quarters to church was very pretty. Fifteen hundred people at least must have collected. I attended the service, but could make little of it. I could follow the hymns with a book ; l)ut copies of the Liturgy, though printed, are not provided for general use, and are reserved to the clergy. The faces of the men were extremely interesting. There Avas nothing in chem to suggest the old freebooter. Tlicy were mild and gentle-looking, with fair skins, fair hair, and liglit eyes, gray or blue. The expression was sensible and collected, but with nothing about it specially adventurous or daring. The women, in fact, were more striking than their husbands. There was a steady strength in tlieir features wliicli implied humor underneath. Two girls, I suppose sisters, reminded nie of ]\rrs. Gaskell. With the Lutheran, Sunday afternoon is a holiday. A 83 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. yacht in such a place was a curiosity, and a fleet of boats surrounded us. Such as hked came on board and looked about them. They were well-bred, and showed no foolish surprise. One old dame, indeed, being taken down into the ladies' cabin, did find it too much for her. She dropped down and kissed the carpet. One of our party wondered afterward whether there was any chance of the Norwegians attaining a higher civilization. I asked her to define civilization. Did industry, skill, energy, sufficient food and raiment, sound practical education, and piety which believes without asking ques- tions, constitute civilization ; and would luxury, news- papers, and mechanics' institutes mean a higher civiliza- tion ? The old question must first be answered. What is the real purpose of human life ? At Stromen, too, we could not linger ; we stopped a few hours at Daviken on our way north, a considerable place for Norway, on the Nord Fjord. There is a bishop, I believe, belonging to it, but him we did not see. We called at the parsonage and found the pastor's wife and children. The pastor himself came on board afterward — a handsome man of sixty-seven, with a broad, full forehead, large nose, and straight, grizzled hair. He spoke English, and Vvould have spoken Latin if we had ourselves been equal to it. He had read much English literature, and was cultivated above the level of our own average country clergy. His parish was thirty miles long on both sides of the fjord. He had several churches, to all of which he attended in turn, with boats in summer, and I suppose the ice in winter We did not ask his salary ; it was doubtless small, but sufficient. He had a school under him, which he said was well attended. The master, who had a state cer- tificate, was allowed £25 a vear, on which he was able THE NORWAY FJORDS. 83 to maintain himself. We could not afford time to see more of this gentleman, however. "We were impatient for Trondhjem ; the engineer wanted coals ; we wanted our letters and newspapers ; and the steward wanted a washerwoman. On our way up, too, we had arranged to giv'e a day or two to Romsdal, Rolf the Ganger's country — on an island in Romsdal Fjord the ruins can still be seen of Rolf's castle. It was there that Rolf, or Rollo as we call him, set out with his comrades to con- quer .Normandy, and produce the chivalry who fought at fiastings and organized feudal England. This was not to be missed ; and as little, a visit which we had pron)ised to a descendant of one of those Normans, a distinguished Tory member of the House of Commons, and lord of half an English county. He had bought an estaie in these parts, with a salmon river, and had built himself a house there. Romsdal, independent of its antiquarian interest, is geologically the most remarkable place which we saw in Norway. The fjord expands into a wide estuary or large inland lake, into which many valleys open and several large streams discharge themselves. Romsdal proper was once evidently itself a continuation of the Great Fjord. The mountains on each side of it are peculiarly magnificent. On the left RomsdaPs Horn shoots u]) into the sky, a huge peak which no one has ever climbed, and will try the mettle of the Alpine Ohib when they have conquered Switzerland. On the right is a precipitous wall of cliffs and crags as high and Ixild as the Horn itself. The upper end of the valley which divides them terminates in a narrow fissure, through which a river thunders down that carries the water of the great central ice-field into the valley. From thence it finds its w;iy into the fjord, i-iinning through the glen 84 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. itself, wliicli is seven or eiglit miles long, two miles wide, and richly cultivated and wooded. From the sea the appearance of the shore is most singular. It is laid out in level, grassy terraces, stretching all round the bay, rising in tiers one above the other, so smooth, so even, so nicely scarfed, that the imagination can hardly be persuaded that they are not the work of human en- gineers. But under water the formation is the same. At one moment you are in twenty fathoms, the next in forty, the next your cable will find no bottom ; and it is as certain as any conclusion on such subjects can be, that long ago, long ages before Rolf, and Knut, and the vikings, the main fjord was blocked with ice ; that while the ice barrier was still standing, and the valleys behind it were fresh-water lakes, the rivers gradually filled them with a dehris of stone and soil. Each level terrace was once a lake bottom. The ice broke or melted away at intervals. The water was lowered suddenly forty or fifty feet, and the ground lately covered was left bare as the ice receded. We found our Englishman. His house is under the Horn at the bend of the valley, where the ancient fjord must have ended. It stands in a green, open meadow, approached through alder and birch woods, the first cataract where the snow-water plunges through the great chasm being in sight of the windows, and half a dozen inimitable salmon pools within a few minutes' walk. The house itself was simple enough, made of pine wood entirely, as the Norway houses always are, and painted white. It contained some half dozen rooms, furnished in the j^lainest English style, the summer house of a sportsman who is tired of luxury, and finds the absence of it an agreeable exchange. A man cannot be always catching salmon, even in Norway, and a smattering of science and natural history would THE NORWAY FJORDS. 85 be a serviceable equi]")meut in a scene where there are so many curious objects worth attending to. Our friend's tastes, however, did not lie in that direction. His shelves were full of jellow-backed novels — French, En2:]ish, and German. His table was covered with tlie everlasting Saturday Revieic, Pall Mall Gazette, Times, and Standard. I think he suspected science as^^art of modern Liberalism ; for he was a Tory of the Tories, a man with w^hom the destinies had dealt kindly, in whose eyes therefore all existing arrangements were as they should be, and those who wished to meddle with them were enemies of the human race. He was sad and sorrowful. The world was not moving to his mind, and he spoke as if he was ultimus Bomanorum. But if an aristocrat, he was an aristocrat of the best type — princely in his thought, princely in his habits, princely even in his salmon fislrfng. The pools in the river being divided by difficult rapids, he had a boat and a boatman for each. The sport was ample but uniform. There was an ice cellar under the house, where we saw half a dozen great salmon lying which had been caught in the morning. One salmon behaves much like another ; and after one has caught four or five, and when one knows that one can catch as many more as one wishes, impatient people might find the occupation monotonous. Happily there was a faint element of uncertainty still left. It was possible to fail even in the Romsdal. We were our- selves launched in boats in diiferent pools at the risk of our lives to try our hands ; wc Avorked diligently for a couple of hours, and I at least moved not so much as a fin. It was more entertaining a great deal to listen to our host as he declaimed upon the iniciuities of (nn* present Radical chief. J^olitics, like religi(jn, are mat- ters of faith on which reason says as little as possible. 86 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FKOUDE. One passionate belief is an antidote to another. It is impossible to continue to believe enthusiastically in a creed which a fellow- mortal with as much sense as one- self denies and execrates, and the collision of opinion produces the prudent scepticism which in most matters is the least mischievous frame of mind. Here, too, in these pleasant surroundings we would gladly have loitered for a day or two ; but the steward was clamorous over his dirty linen, and it was not to be. Trondhjem, on which our intentions had been so long fixed, was reached at last. The weather had grown cold again, cold with cataracts of rain. Let no one go to Norway even in the dog-days without a winter ward- robe. The sea- water in our baths was at 47" ; we had fires in the cabin stove, and could not warm ourselves ; we shivered under four blankets in our berths. The moun- tains were buried in clouds, and the landscape was reduced to dull gray mist ; but the worst of weathers will serve for reading letters, laying in coal, and wander- ing about a town. Trondhjem ought to have been interesting. It was the capital of the old Norse kings. There reigned the Olafs. It lies half way up the Norway coast in the very centre of the kingdom, on a broad, land-locked bay. The situation was chosen for its strength ; for a deep river all but surrounds the peninsula on which the town is built, and on the land side it must have been im- pregnable. The country behind it is exceptionally fer- tile, and is covered over with thriving farms ; but streets and shops are wearisome, and even the cathedral did not tempt us to pay it more than a second visit. It is a stern, solid piece of building ; early Norman in type, with doors, \\nndows, and arches of zigzag pattern. It had fallen out of repair, and is now being restored by the THE NORWAY FJORDS. 87 state ; hundreds of workmen are busy chi'iDping and hammering, and are doing their business so well that the new work can hardly be distinguished from the old. But Catholic Christianity never seems to have got any hearty hold on Norway. St. Olaf thrust it upon the people at the sword's point, but their imaginations re- mained heathen till the Reformation gave them a creed •sdiich they could believe. I could not find a single tolnb in the cathedral. 1 inquired where the old kings and chiefs were buried, and no one could tell me. I found, in fact, that they had usually come to an end in some sea battle, and had found their graves in their own element. Olaf Tryggveson went down, the last survivor in the last ship of his fleet, the rays of the sunset flash- ino^ on his armor as the waves closed over him. St. CTlaf died in the same way. The entire absence of monumental,£tones or figures in the great metropolitan church of Norway is strange, sad, and impressive. The town being exhausted, we drove a few miles out of it to see a foss, one of the grandest in the country. We said " Oh !"' to it, as Wolfe Tone did to G rattan. But waterfalls had become too common with us, and, in fact, the excitement about them has always seemed exag- gerated to me. I was staying once in a house in the north of New York State when a gentleman came in fresh from Niagara, and poured out his astonishment over the enormous mass of water falling into the cauldron below. "Why is it astonishing f ' asked a Yankee who was present. " Why shouldn't the water fall ? The astonishing thing would be if it didn't fall." In short, we left the washerwoman in possession of the linen, which we could return and pick up wlicn it was done, and we steamed away to examine tlie great Trondhjem Fjord ; fishing and making bad sketches as 88 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. tlie weather would allow. Tl>e weather generally al- lowed us to do very little, and drove us upon our books, which we could have read as well in our rooms at home. I had brought the " Elective Affinities" with me. I had not read it for thirty years. Then it had seemed to me the wisest of all didactic works. " Un- conscious cerebration," as Dr. Carpenter calls it, when I read it again, had revolutionized my principles of judgment. 1 could still recognize the moral purpose. There are tendencies in human nature, hke the chemical properties of material substances, which will claim pos- session of you, and even appear to have a moral right over you. But if yon yield you will be destroyed. You can command yourself, and you must. Yery true, very excellent ; and set forth with Goethe's greatest power of fascination ; but I found myself agreeing with the rest of the world, that it was a monstrous book after all. To put the taste out I tried Seneca, but I scarcely improved matters. Seneca's fame as a moralist and philosojiher was due, perhaps, in the first instance, to his position about the court and to his enormous wealth. A little merit passes for a great deal when it is framed in gold — once established it would remain, from the natural liking of men for virtuous cant. Those lectures to Lucilius on the beauty of poverty from the greatest money-lender and usurer in the empire ! Lucilius is to practise voluntary hardships, is to live at intervals on beggars' fare, and sleep on beggars' pallets, that he may- sympathize in the sufferings of mortality and be inde- pendent of outward things. If Seneca meant it, why did he squeeze five millions of our money out of the provinces with loans and contracts ? He was barren as the Sahara to me. Not a green sj-tot could I find, not a single genial honest thought, in all the four volumes THE NORWAY FJORDS. 89 with wliicli I liad encumbered myself. His finest periods rang hollow like brass sovereigns. The rain would not stop, so we agreed to defy the rain and to fish in spite of it. We had the fjord before us for a week, and we landed wherever we could hear of lake or river. For twelve hours together the waterspout would come down upon us ; we staggered about in thickest woollen, with macintoshes, and india-rubber bot)ts. With flapped oilskin hats we should have been weather-proof, but with one of these I was unprovided ; and, in spite of collars and woollen wrappers, the water would find its way down our necks till there was nothing dry left about us but the feet. Clothes grow heavy under such conditions ; we had to take our lightest rods with us, and now and then came to grief. I was fisliing alone one day in a broad, rocky stream fringed with alder bushes, dragging my landing-net along with me. At an open spot where there was a likely run within reach I had caught a four-pound sea trout. I threw again ; a larger fish rose and carried off my fly. I mounted a " doctor," blue and silver, on the strongest casting-line in my book, and on the second cast a salmon came. The river in the middle was running like a mill- sluice. 1 could not follow along the bank for the trees ; my only hope was to hold on and drag the monster into the slack water under the shore. My poor little rod did its best, but its best was not enough ; the salmon found his way into the waves, round went tlie reel, off flew the hue to the last inch, and then came the inevitable catastrophe. The fish sprang wildly into the aif, tlie rod straightened out, the line came home, and my salmon and niy briglit doctor sped away together to the, sea. We were none the worse for our wettings, l-ladi Ou' SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDK. evening we came home dripping and draggled. A degree or two more of cold would have turned the rain into snow. Yet it signified nothing. We brought back our basketfuls of trout, and the Norwegian trout are the best in the world. We anchored one evening in a chasm with the mountain walls rising in precipices on both sides. The next morning as I was lying in my berth I heard a conversation between the steward and the captain. The captain asked the orders for the day ; the steward answered (he was the wit of the ship), " Orders are to stretch an awning over the fjord that his lordship may fish." But the weather so far beat us that w^e were obliged to abandon Lofoden. We were now at the end of July, and it was not likely to mend, so we determined to turn about and spend the rest of our time in the large fjords of south Norway. Trondhjem had been our furthest point ; we could not coal there after all, so we had to make for Christiansund on the way. I was not sorry for it, for Christiansund is a curious little bustling place, and worth seeing. It is the headquarters of the North Sea fishing trade near the open ocean, and the harbor is formed by three or four islands divided by extremely narrow^ channels, with a deep, roomy basin in the middle of them. One of our crew was ill and had to be taken for two or three days to the hospital. The arrange- ments seemed excellent, as every public department is in Norway. The town was pretty. The Norwegians dress plainly ; but they like bright colors for their houses, and the red-tiled roofs and blue and yellow painted fronts looked pleasant after our clouds of mist. The climate from the proximity of the ocean is said to be mild for its latitude. The snow lies up to the lower windows through tlie winter, but that went for nothing. THE NORWAY F.TORT)S. 91 There were stocks and coluiubines in the gardens ; there were ripe gooseberries and red currants and pink thorn and laburnum in flower. The ]iarbor was full of fishing-smacks, like Brixhani trawlers, only rather more old-fashioned. Gay steam ferry-boats rushed about from island to island ; large ships were loading ; well- dressed strangers were in the streets and shops ; an English yacht had come like ourselves to take in coal, atfd was moored side by side with us. There are fewer people in the world than we imagine, and we fall on old acquaintances when we least expect them. The once t)eautiful was on board whom I had known forty - five years ago. She had married a distinguished en- gineer, who was out for his holiday. We stayed at Christiansund or in the neighborhood till our sick man was recovered, and then followed (under bettor auspices as regarded weather) ten days of scenery hunting which need not be described. We went to Sondal, Lserdal, IS'ordal, and I don't know^ how many " dais," all famous places in their way, but with a uniformity of variety w'hich becomes tedious in a story. One only noticeable feature I observed about the sheds and poorer houses in these out-of-the-way districts. They lay turf sods over the roofs, which become thick masses of vegetation ; and on a single cottage roof you may see half a dozen trees growing ten or fifteen feet high. For lakes and mountains, however beautiful, the appetite soon becomes satiated. They please, but they cease to excite ; and there is something artificial in the modern enthusiasm for landscapes. Velasquez or Kubens could appreciate a fine effect of scenery as well as Turner or Stansfield ; but with them it w^as a framework, sub- ordinate to some human interest in the centre of the picture. I suppose it is I)ecausc man in these democratic 92 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FJIOUDE. days lias for a time ceased to touch tlie imagination that our poets and artists are driven back upon rocks and rivers and trees and skies ; but the eclipse can only be temporary, and I confess, for myself, that, sublime as the fjords were, the saw-mills and farmhouses and iish- ing-boats, and the patient, industrious people wresting a wholesome living out of that stern environment, affected me very much more nearly. I cannot except even the Geiranger, as tremendous a piece of natural architecture as exists in the globe. Tlie fjord in the Geiranger is a quarter of a mile wide and six hundred fathoms deep. The walls of it are in most places not figuratively, but literally, precipices, and the patch of sky above your head seems to narrow as you look up. I hope I was duly impressed with the wonder of this ; but even here there was something which impressed me more, and that was the singular haymaking which was going on. The Norwegians depend for their existence on their sheep and cattle. Every particle of grass available for hay is secured ; and grass, peculiarly nutritious, often grows on the high ridges two thousand feet up. This they save as they can, and they have original ways of doing it. In the Geiranger it is tied tightly in bundles and flung over the cliffs to be gathered up in boats below. But science, too, is making its way in this nortiiern wilderness. The farmhouses, for shelter's sake, are always at the bottom of valleys, and are generally near the sea. At one of our anchorages, shut in as usual among the mountains, we observed one evening from the deck what looked like a troop of green goats skip- ping and bounding down the cliffs. We discovered through a binocular that they were bundles of hay. The clever bonder had carried up a wire, like a tele- graph wire, from his coui'tyard to a projecting point of THE XORWAT FJORDS. 93 mountain ; on tins ran iron rings as travellers wliich brought the grass directly to his door. Twice only in our wanderings we had fallen in with our tourist countrymen : once at Lferdal, where a high- road comes down to a pier, and is met there by a corre- sponding steamer ; the second time coming down from the Geiranger, when we passed a boat with two ladies and a gentleman, English evidently, the gentleman toucliing liis hat to the Yacht Club flag as we went by. Strange and pleasant the short glimpse of English faces in that wild chasm ! But we were plunged into the very middle of our countrymen at the last spot to which we went in search of the picturesque — a spot worth a few words as by far the most reguhirly beautiful of all the places which we visited. At the head of one of the long inlets which runs south, I think, out of the Hardanger Fjord (but our rapid movements were con- fusing) stands Odde, once a holy place in Scandinavian mvtholoffical history. There is another Odde in Ice- land, also sacred— I suppose Odin had something to do with it. The Odde Fjord is itself twenty miles long, and combines the softest and grandest aspects of Nor- wegian scenery. The shores are exceptionally well cultivated, richer than any which we had seen. Every half mile sonu3 pretty farmhouse was shining red through clumps of trees, the nuniy cattle-sheds speaking for the wealth of the owner. Above, through the rifts of higher ranges, you catch a sight of the central ice-field glacier streaming over among the broken chasms and melting i to waterfalls. At Odde itself there is an extensive tract of fertile soil on the slope of a vast moraine, which stretches completely across the bn.ad valley. On the sea at the landing-place is a large churdi ;nid two pt of folly, half pardons Alexander when such a man as Rutilian was so eager to be his dupe. The new disciple, being'a Pythagorean, believed in pre- existence. He asked through what personalities he had himself passed already. Alexander told him that he had been no less a person than Achilles. After Achilles he had been Menander, and when his present life was over he was to become immortal, and live thenceforward as a sunbeam. Rutilian believed it all. Xo absurdity was too monstrous for him ; while he on his part was infinitely useful to Alexander. Few sceptics were hardy enough thenceforward to question the character of the friend of the Emperor's favorite. Anion"- his female adorers or connections, of whom Alexander had as many as Brigham Young, there was a girl whom he called his daughter, on the mother's side of exalted parentage. Selene, or the Moon, had seen Alex- ander sleeping like Endymion, had be(!<>me enamored of liiiii, and had descended to his embraces. Tlie young ladr he declared to be the offspring of this celestial union. I"2^ SKETCIIKS FliOM .T. A. FK'OLDE. KiitiHan, l)eing a widower, was infonued that Selene and ^Esculapius liad selected him to be her husband. He was delighted. He believed the marriage to be an adoption into heaven. Like Menelaus, he would never die, being the son-in-law of a god, and the nuptials were celebrated with august solemnity. Abonotichus after this became a holy city, a Mecca, a place of pilgrimage. The prophet was a power in the Empire, and began to surround himself with pomp and display. Among other ceremonies he instituted a public service in the temple in imitation of the mysteries of Eleusis. That he was able to present such scenes with impunity is a most curious illustration of the mental condition of the time. The service commenced with a procession of acolytes, carrjang torches, the prophet at their head, like the priests of Ceres, giving notice to the profane to keep aloof, and inviting the believers in ^Esculapius to ap- proach and take part in the holy mystery. The profane whom he specially meant were the Christians and the atheists. The prophet spoke ; the congregation an- swered. The prophet said, '' Away with the Chris- tians !" The people replied, " Away wath the atheists !" Those who presented themselves for comumnion were examined first l)y Alexander to ascertain their fitness. If found unorthodox, they were excluded from the temple. The ceremonial then commenced. It con- sisted of a series of tableaux. The first day was given to representations of the lying-in of Latona, the birth of Apollo, the marriage of Apollo and Coronis, with the issue of it in the generation of ^^sculapius. On the second day there was the incarnation of " the sweet one,'' with the Chalcedon plates, the goose egg, and the snake. Alexander himself was the hero of the third. A CAGLIOSTRO OF THE SEOOXD CENTURY. 12? A new revelation, it seems, liad informed him of mys- terious circumstances attending his own coming into the world. His mother had been visited bj Podalirius, ^.sculapius's mythical son. The temple was then brill- iantly illuminated. The prophet, after some prelimi- nary gesticulations, laid himself down, as Endymion, to sleep upon a couch. Selene, the Moon, personated by thii'beautiful wife of an officer of the imperial court, who was the prophet's mistress, descended upon him from the roof and covered him with kisees, the husband looking on, delighted with the honor which had fallen upon him. In the final scene, Alexander reappeared in liis priestly dress. A hymn was sung to the snake, the congr'.gation accompanying or responding. The choir then formed into a circle and went through a mystic dance, the prophet standing in the centre. The miraculous birth of Alexander, after being thus announced, was made into an article of faith, which the disciples were bound to receive. A difficulty arose which hfid not been foreseen. If he was the son of a irod, how could he be Pvtluiijoras ? and how came he bv tlie golden tliigli ? He was equal to the occasion ; he was not Pytliagoras, lie said, and yet ho was. He had the same soul with Pvthaijoras ; for that soul was the Spirit of God, which waned and was renewed like the moon. The Spirit descended fi-om heaven at special times and on spcctial persons, and again ascended when its purpose wa.s attained. The gold thigh was perliaps ('X])lained as its a('comj>anying symbol. IIavined, and with equal strictness ; but the diet of the nobleman was ordered down to a level which was then within the reach of the poorest laborer. In 1 •';;*.»>, tlie following law wai 148 SKKTCIIKS FROM J. A. FKOUDE. enacted by tlie Parliament of Edward III. : "Where- as, heretofore through the excessive and over-many sorts of costly meats which the people of this Realm have used more thaii elsewhere, many mischiefs have hap- pened to the people of this Realm— for the great men by these excesses have been sore grieved ; and the lesser people, who only endeavor to iinitate the great ones in such sort of meats, are much impoverished, whereby they are not able to aid themselves, nor their liege lord, in time of need, as they ought ; and many other evils have happened, as well to their souls as their bodies — our Lord the King, desiring the common profit as well of the great men as of the common people of his Realm, and considering the evils, grievances, and mischiefs aforesaid, by the common assent of the prelates, earls, barons, and other nobles of his said Realm, and of the commons of the same Realm, hath ordained and estab- lished that no man, of what estate or condition soever lie be, shall canse himself to be served, in his house or elsewhere, at dinner, meal, or supper, or at any other time, with more than two courses, and each mess of two sorts of victuals at the utmost, be it of flesh or fish, with the connnon sorts of pottage, without sauce or any other sorts of victuals. And if any man choose to have sauce for his mess, he may, jn-ovided it be not made at great cost ; and if fish or flesli be to be mixed therein, it shall be of two sorts only at the utmost, either fish or flesh, and shall stand instead of a mess, except only on the principal feasts of the year, on which days every man may be served with three courses at the utmost, after the manner aforesaid." Sumptuary laws are among the exploded fallacies which we have outgrown, and we smile at the unwisdom whicli could expect to regulate private habits and man- SIXTEEXTIT CRXTl-llY l^XOLTSHMKX. 149 ners by statute. Yet some statutes may be of luor.il authority wlien they cannot be actually enforced, and may have been regarded, even at the time at which they were issued, rather as an authoritative declaration of ^^wliat wise and good men considered to be right, than as laws to which obedience could be compelled. This act, ^f.^ any ratCj witnesses to what was then thought to be right by " the great persons" of the English realm ; and when great persons will .sul)mit theni'^elves of their free ^Avill to regulations which restrict their private indul- gence, they are in little danger of disloyalty from those whom fortune has placed below them. Such is one aspect of these old arrangements ; it is lymecessary to say that with these, as with all other institutions created and worked by hunum beings, the pictnre admits of being i-eversed. ^Yhen by the accident of birth men are placed in a position of authority, no care in tlieir training will prevent it from falling often to singularly unfit persons. The command of a per- manent military force was a temptation to ambition, to avarice, or hatred, to the indulgence of priv^ate pi(pies and jealousies, to political discontent on private and personal grounds. A combination of three or four of the leading nobles was sufficient, whi'ii an incapable prince sate on the throne, to effect a revolution ; and the rival claims of the houses uf York and Lancaster to the crown, took the form of a war unequalled in liistory for its fierce and determined maliu-nancv, tlio whole nation tearing itself in pieces in a (piarrel in which no principle was at stake, and no national object was to be gained. A more terrible misfortune never befell either this or any other country, and it was mad(; possible only in virtue of that loyalty with which the people followed the standard, through good and evil, of their ir)0 SKETCHES FROlVf ,T. A. FROUIJE. feudal superiors. It is still a question, however, whether the good or the evil of the system predominated ; and the answer to sucli question is the more difficult because we have no criterion by which, in these matters, degrees of good and evil admit of being measured. Arising out of the character of the nation, it reflected this character in all its peculiarities ; and there is something truly noble in the coherence of society upon principles of fidelity. Fidelity of man to man is among the rarest excellences of humanity, and we can tolerate large evils which arise out of such a cause. Under the feudal system men were held together by oaths, free acknowl- edgments, and reciprocal obligations, entered into by all ranks, high and low, binding servants to their masters, as well as nobles to their kings ; and in the frequent forms of the language in which the oaths were sworn we cannot choose but see that we have lost something in exchanging these ties for the harslier connecting links of mutual self-interest. " When a freeman shall do fealty to his lord," the statute says, " he shall hold his right hand upon the book, and shall say thus : — Hear you, my lord, that I shall be to you both faithful and true, and shall owe my faith to you for the land that I hold, and lawfully shall do such customs and services as my duty is to you, at the times assigned, so help me God and all his saints." " The villain," also, " when he shall do fealty to his lord, shall hold his right hand over the book, and shall say :— Hear you, my lord, that I from tins day forth unto you shall be true and faithful, and shall owe you fealty for the land which I hold of you in villanage ; and that no evil or damage will I see concerning you, but I will defend and warn you to my power. So help me God and all his saints. ' ' SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENGLISHMEN. 151 Again, in the distribution of tlie produce of liind, men dealt fairly and justly with each other ; and in the material condition of the bulk of the people there is a fair evidence that the system worked efficiently and well. It worked well for the support of a sturdy, high ''hearted race, sound in body and fierce in spirit, and fur- .^ished with thews and sinews which, under the stimulus "^'Of- those "licrcat shins of beef," their common diet, were tli€ wonder of the age. " What comyn folke in all this ''vE.orld," says a state paper in 1515, " may compare with the comyns of England in riches, freedom, lil)erty, wel- fare, and all prosperity ? What comyn folke is so mighty, 60 strong in the felde, as the comyns of England V The ' relative numbers of the French and English armies which fought at Cressy and Agincourt may have been exaggerated^ Imt no allowance for exaggeration will affect the greatness of those exploits ; and in stories of authentic actions under Henry VIII. , where the accu- racy of the account is undeniable, no disparity of force made Englishmen shriidv from enemies wherever they could meet them. A2;ain and aiii-ain a few thousand of them carried dismay into the heart of France, Four luindred adventurers, vagabond apprentices, from Lon- don, who formed a volunteer corps in the Calais gar- rison, were for years the terror of Normandy. In the very frolic of conscious power they fought and phm- dered, without pny, without reward, except what they could win for tlieniselves ; and when they fell at last they fell only when surrounded by six times their number, and were cut to pieces in careless desperation. Invariably, ])y fri(;nd and enemy alike, the English are described as the fiercest people in all Europe (the Eng- lish wild beasts, Benvenuto Cellini calls them) ; and this great physical power they owed to the profuse abundance 152 vSKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. ill wliicli they lived, and to tlie soldier's training in wliicli every man of them was bred from childhood. The state of the working classes can, however, be more certainly determined by a comparison of their wages with the prices of food. Both were regnlated, so far as regulation was possible, by act of parliament, and we have therefore data of the clearest kind by which to judge. The majority of agricultural laborers lived, as I have said, in tlie houses of their employers ; this, how- ever, was not the case with all, and if we can satisfy ourselves as to the rate at which those among the poor were able to live who had cottages of their own, we may be assured that the rest did not live worse at their masters' tables. Wheat, the price of which necessarily varied, averaged in the middle of the fourteenth century tenpence the bushel ; barley averaging at the same time three shillings the quarter. With wheat the fluctuation was excessive ; a table of its possible variations describes it as ranging from eighteenpence the quarter to twenty shilhngs ; the average, however, being six and eightpence. When the price was above this sum, the merchants might import to bring it down ; when it was below this price, the farmers were allowed to export to the foreign markets. The same scale, with a scarcely appreciable tendency to rise, continued to hold until the disturbance in the value of the currency. In the twelve years from 1551 to 1562, although once before harvest wheat rose to the extraordinary price of forty-five shillings a quarter, it fell immediately after to five shillings and four. Six and eightpence continued to be considered in parliament as the average ; and on tlie whole it seems to have been maintained for that time with little variation. Beef and pork were a halfpenny a pound, mutton was K'^ SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENGLISHMEN. 15 tliree farthings. They were fixed at these prices by the 3d of the 24 of lien. VIII. But the act was unpopular both with buyers and with sellers. The old practice had been to sell in the gross, and under that arrangement the rates had been generally lower. Stow says : "It \yas this year enacted that butchers should sell their beef .aod mutton by weight — beef for a halfpenny the pound. and mutton for three farthings ; which being devised fcrr;the great connnodity of the realm (as it was thought), hath proved far otherwise : for at that time fat oxen were sold for six and twenty shillings and eightpence the piece ; fat wethers for three shillings and fourpence the piece ; fat calves at a like price ; and fat lambs for twelvepence. The butchers of London sold penny pieces of beef for the relief of the poor — every piece two pound Ttnd a half, sometimes three pound for a penny ; and thirteen and sometimes fourteen of these })ieces for twelvepence ; nnitton eightpence the quarter, and an hundred weight of beef for four siiillings and eightpence." The act was repealed in consequence of the complaints against it, butsthe prices never fell again to what they had been, although beef sold in the gross could still be had fo)* a halfpenny a pound in 1570. Other articles of food were in the same proportion. The best pig or goose in a country market could be bought for fourpence ; a good capon for threepence or four- j)eiice ; a chicken for a pemiy ; a hen for twopence. Strong beer, such as we now buy for eightcenpence a gallon, was then a penny a gallon ; and table-beer less than a halfpenny. French and German wines were eightpence a gallon ; Spanish and Portuguese wines a shilling. This was tlie highest pi'icc at which tlu- best wines might be sold ; and if there was any fault in quality or quantity, the dealers forfeited four times the 154 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. amount. Kent, another important consideration, cannot be fixed so accurately, for parliament did not interfere with it. Here, however, we are not without very toler- able information. " My father," says Latimer, " was a yeoman, and had no lands of his own ; only he had a farm of three or four pounds hy the year at the utter- most, and hereupon he tilled so nmch as kept half a dozen men. He had walk for a hundred sheep, and my mother milked thirty kine. He was able, and did find the king a harness with himself and his horse. I re- member that I buckled on his harness when he went to Blackheath field. He kept me to school, or else I had not been able to have preached before the King's Majesty now. He married my sisters with five pounds, or twenty nobles, each, having brought them up in godliness and fear of God. He kept hospitality for his poor neighbors, and some alms he gave to the poor ; and all this he did of the said farm." If "three or four pounds at the uttermost" was the rent of a farm yield- ing such results, the rent of laborers' cottages is not likely to have been considerable. Some uncertainty is unavoidable in all calculations of the present nature ; yet after making the utmost allowance for errors, we may conclude from such a table of prices that a penny, in terms of the laborer's necessities, must have been nearly equal in the reign of Henry YIII. to the present shilling. For a penny, at the time of which 1 write, the laborer could buy as much bread, beef, beer, and wine — he could do as much toward finding lodging for himself and his family — as the laborer of the nineteenth century can for a shilling. I do not see that this admits of question. Turning, then, to the table of wages, it will be easy to ascertain his position. By the 3d of the 6th of Henry VIII. it was enacted that master SIXTEEXTII CENTURY ENGLISHMEN. 155 carpenters, masons, bricklayers, tjlers, plumbers, glaziers, joiners, and other emplo3'ers of such skilled workmen, should give to each of their journeymen, if no meat or drink was allowed, sixpence a day for the half year, tivepence a day for the other half ; or fiveijence -half- penny for the yearly average. The common laborers w$re to receive fourpence a day for half the year, for the remaining half, threepence. In the harvest months they were allowed to work by the piece, and might earn oohsiderably more ; so that, in fact (and this was the rate at M'hieh their wages were usually estimated), the day laborer, if in full employment, received on an average fourpence a day for the whole year. Allowing a deduction of one day in a fortnight for a saint's day or a holiday, he received, therefore, steadily and regularly, if well conducted, an equivalent of something near to twenty sliillings a week, the wages at preseht paid in English colonies ; and this is far from being a full account of his advantages. Except in rare instances, the agricultural laborer held land in connection with his house, while in most parishes, if not in all, there were large ranges of connnon and uninclosed forest land which furnished his fuel to hiiu gratis, where pigs might I'ange, and ducks and geese ; where, if he could afford a cow, he was in no danger of being unable to feed it ; and so important was this privilege considered, that when the commons began to be largely inclosed, parliament in- sisted that the working-man should iu)t be without some piece of ground on which he could employ his own and his family's industry. By the 7th of the 31st of Eliza- beth, it was ordered that no cottage should be built for residence without four acres of land at lowest being attached to it for the sole use of the occupants of such cottage. ITiO SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. It will, perhaps, be supposed that such comparative prosperity of labor was the result of the condition of the market in which it was sold, that the demand for labor was large and the supply limited, and that the state of England in the sixteenth century was analogous to that of Australia or Canada at the present time. And so long as we confine our view to the question of wages alone, it is undoubted that legislation was in favor of the employer. The Wages Act of Henry YIII. was un- popular with the laborers, and was held to deprive them of an opportunity of making better terms for themselves. But we shall fall into extreme error if we translate into the language of modern political economy the social features of a state of things which in r.o way corre- sponded to our own. There was this essential difference, that labor was not looked upon as a market commodity ; the goverinnent (whether wisely or not, I do not pre- sume to determine) attempting to portion out the rights of the various classes of society by the rule, not of economy, but of equity. Statesmen did not care for the accumulation of capital ; they desired to see the physical well-being of all classes of the commonwealth main- tained at the highest degree which the producing power of the country admitted ; and [)opulation and production remaining stationary, they were able to do it. This was their object, and they were supported in it by a pow- erful and efficient majority of the nation. On the one side parliamcTit interfered to protect enq^loyers against their laborers ; but it was equally determined that employers should not be allowed to abuse their opportunities ; and this directly appears from the 4th of the 5tli of Elizabeth, by which, on the most trifling appearance of a depreciation in the currency, it was declared that the laboring man could no longer live on SIXTEENTH CENTIRY i:N(i LISHMEN". 157 the wages assigned to liim by the act of Henrj ; and a sHding scale was instituted by which, for the future, wages should be adjusted to the price of food. The same conclusion may be gathered also, indirectly, from other acts, interfering imperiously with the rights of property Mhere a disposition showed itself to execcise tlrem selfishly. The city merchants, as I have said, M-ere becoming landowners ; and some of them attempted to apply the rules of trade to the management of landed estates. While wages were ruled so high, it answered better as a speculation to convert arable land into past- ure ; but the law innnediately stepped in to prevent a proceeding which it regarded as petty treason to the eoinm on wealth. Self-protection is the first law of life ; aild the country relying for its defence on an able-bodied population, erenly distributed, ready at any moment to be called into action, either against foreign invasion or civil disturbance, it could not permit the owners of land to pursue for their own benefit a course of action which threatened to weaken its garrisons. It is not often that we are able to test the M'isdom of legislation by specific results so clearly as in the present instance. The first attempts of tljc kind which I have described were made in the Isle of Wight, early in the reign of Henry Yll. Lying so directly exposed to attacks from France, the Isle of Wight was a ])lace which it was peculiarly im- portant to keep in a state of defence, and the following act was therefore tlie consecpience : " Forasmuch as it is to the surety of the Realm of England that tlic U]g of Wight, in the county of South- ampton, l)e well inhabited witli English people, for the defence as well of our antient enemies of the Realm of France as of otlur ]>;irties ; the wliicli Isle is late de- caved of iK'oplr 1)V reason that manv towns an<1 \'iUages 158 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. have been let down, and the fields dyked and made pasture for beasts and cattle, and also many dwelling- places, farms, and farmholds have of late time been used to be taken into one man's hold and hands, that of old time were wont to be in many several persons' holds and hands, and many several households kept in them ; and thereby much people multiplied, and the same Isle thereby well inhabited, which now, by the occasion aforesaid, is desolate and not inhabited, but occupied with beasts and cattle, so that if hasty remedy be not provided, that Isle cannot long be kept and defended, but open and ready to the hands of the king's enemies, which God forbid. For remedy hereof, it is ordained and enacted that no manner of person, of what estate, degree, or condition soever, shall take any several farms more than one, whereof the yearly value shall not exceed the sum of ten marks ; and if any several leases afore this time have been made to any person or persons of divers and sundry' farmholds, whereof the yearly value shall exceed that sum, then the said person or persons shall choose one farmhold at his pleasure, and the remnant of his leases shall be utterly void.'' An act, tyrannical in form, was singularly justified by its consequences. The farms were rebuilt, the lands reploughed, the island repeopled ; and in 1546, when a French army of sixty thousand men attempted to effect a landing at St. Helen's, tliey were defeated and driven off by the militia of the island and a few levies trans- person shall occupy more than two farms ; and that the 10th of the 4th of Henry YII., and those other acts obliging the lords of the fees to do their duty, shall be re-enacted and enforced." By these measures the money-making spirit was for a time driven back, and the country resumed its natural course. I am not concerned to defend the economic wisdom of such proceedings ; but they prove, I think, ('(.nclusively, that the laboring classes owed their ad- \ aiitagcs not to the condition of the labor market, but to SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENGLISHMEN. ICI the care of the state ; and that when the state relaxed its supervision, or failed to enforce its regulations, the laborers being left to the market chances, sank instantly in the unequal struggle with capital. The government, however, remained strong enough to hold its ground (except during the discreditable inter- liK^le of the reign of Edward VI.) for the first three ijuarters of the- century ; and until that time the working classes of this country remained in a condition more than pr^perous. They enjoyed an abundance far beyond what in general falls to the lot of that order in long- settled countries ; incomparably beyond what the same class were enjoying at that very time in Germany or France. The laws secured them ; and that the laws were put in force we have the direct evidence of siicces- sive acts of fcke legislature justifying the general policy by its success ; and we have also the indirect evidence of the contented loyalty of the great body of the people at a time when, if they had been discontented, they held in their own hands the means of asserting what the law acknowledged to be their right. The government had no power to compel submission to injustice, as was proved by the fate of an attempt to levy a " benevo- lence" by force, in 1525. The people resisted with a determination against which the crown commissioners were unable to contend, and the scheme ended with an acknowledgment of fault by Henry, who retired with a good grace from an impossible position. If the peas- antry had been suffering under any real grievances, we should not have failed to have heard of them wlien the religious rebcillions furnished so fair an opi^ortunity to press those grievances forward. Complaint was loud enough wlien complaint was just, under flic Somei-sct protectorate. 163 SKETCHES FROM J. A FROUDE. The incomes of the great nobles cannot be determined, for they varied probably as much as they vary now. Under Henry IV. the average income of an earl was estimated at £2000 a year. Under Henry YIII. the great Duke of Buckingham, the wealthiest English peer, had £6000. And the income of the x\rchbisliop of Canterbury was rated at the same amount. But the estabhshments of such men were enormous, their ordina- ry retinues in time of peace consisting of many hundred persons ; and in war, when the duties of a nobleman called him to the held, although in theory his followers were paid by the crown, yet the grants of parliament were on so small a scale that the theory was seldom converted into fact, and a large share of the expenses was paid often out of private purses. The Duke of Korfolk, in the Scotch war of 1523, declared (not com- plaining of it, but merely as a reason why he should receive support) that he had spent all his private means upon the army ; and in the sequel of this history we shall find repeated instances of knights and gentlemen voluntarily ruining themselves in the service of their country. The people, not universally, but generally, were animated by a true spirit of sacrifice ; by a true convic- tion that they were bound to think first of England, and only next of themselves ; and unless we can bring our- selves to understand this, we shall never understand wliat England was under the reigns of the Plantagenets and Tudors. The expenses of the court under Henry YII. were a little over £11,000 a year, out of which were defrayed the whole cost of the king's establish- ment, the expenses of entertaining foreign ambassadors, the wages and maintenance of the yeomen of the guard, the retinues of servants, and all necessary outlay not incurred for public business. Under Henry VIII., of SIXTEEXTH CENTURY EXGLISHMEN", 163 whose extravagance we have heard so much, and whose court was the most magnificent in the world, these expenses were £19,894 16s. Sd., a small sum when com- pared with the present cost of the royal establishment, even if we adopt the relative estimate of twelve to one, and suppose it equal to £240,000 a year of our money. But indeed it was not equal to £240,000 ; for, although the proportion held in articles of common consumption, articles of luxury were very dear indeed. ''•iPassing down from the king and his nobles, to the body of the people, we find that the income qualifying a country gentleman to be justice of the peace was £20 a year, and if he did his duty, his office was no sinecure. "We remember Justice Shallow and his clerk Davy, with his novel theory of magisterial law ; and Shallow's broad features have- so English a cast about them that we may believe there were many such, and that the duty was not always very excellently done. But the Justice Shallows were not allowed to repose upon their dignity. The justice of the peace was required not only to take cognizance of open offences, but to keep surveillance over all persons within his distrist, and over himself in his own turn there was a surveillance no less sharp, and penalties for neglect prompt and peremptory. Four times a year he was to make proclamation of his duty, and exhort all persons to complain against him who had occasion. Twenty pounds a year, and heavy duties to do for it, represented the condition uf the squire of the parish. By the 2d of the 2d of Henry Y., " the wages" of a parish priest were limited to £5 Gs. 8r/. , except in cases where there was special license from the bishop, when they might be raised as high as £0. Priests were probably soiuething bettei' oft' under Henry VIII., but IG-i SKETCHES FllOM J. A. FKUUBE. the statute remained in force, and marks an approach at least to their ordinary salary. The priest had enough, being unmarried, to supply him in comfort M'ith the necessaries of life. The squire had enough to provide moderate abundance for himself and his family. Neither priest nor sqnire was able to establish any steep difference in outward advantages between himself and the commons among whom he lived. The habits of all classes were open, free, and liberal. There are two expressions corresponding one to the other, which we frequently meet with in old writings, and which are used as a kind of index, marking whether the condition of things was or was not what it ought to be. We read of "merry England" — when England was not merry, things were not going w^ell with it. We hear of "the glory of hospitality," England's pre- eminent boast — by the rules of Avhich all tables, from the table of the twenty-shilling freeholder to the table in the baron's hall and abbey refectory, were open at the dinner-hour to all comers, without stint or reserve, or question asked : to every man according to his degree, who chose to ask for it, there was free fare and free lodging ; bread, beef, and beer for his dinner ; for his lodging, perhaps, only a mat of rushes in a spare corner of the hall, with a billet of wood for a pillow, but freely offered and freely taken, the guest probably faring much as his host fared, neither worse nor better. There was little fear of an abuse of such license, for suspicious characters had no leave to wander at pleasure ; and for any man found at large, and unable to give a sufficient account of himself, there were the ever-read}^ parish stocks or town jail. The " glory of hospitality" lasted far down into Elizabetirs time ; and then, as Camden says, " came in great bravery of building, to the mar- SIXTEENTH CENTUUY ENGLISHMEN. 165 velJous beautifying of tlie realm, but to the dec-ay"' of M'hat he vahied more. In such frank style the people lived, hatin*^ three things with all their hearts : idleness, want, and .. cowardice ; and for the rest, carrying their hearts high, ■ and having their hands full. The hour of rising, winter ;v*jand summer, was four o'clock, with breakfast at five, after which the - laborers went to work, and the gentle- /«ien to l)usiness, of which they had no little. In the ^ Country every unknown face was challenged and ex- amined — if the account given was insutficient, he was brought before the justice ; if the village sliopkeeper • sold bad wares, if the village cobbler made " unhonest'' /shoes, if servants and masters quarrelled, all was to be looked to by the justice ; there w^as no fear lest time should hang heavy with him. At twelve he dined ; after diimer he w^ent hunting, or to his farm, or to M'hat he pleased. It was a life unrefined, perhaps, but colored with a lu'oad, rosy, English health. Of the education of nol)lemen and gentlemen we have contradictory accounts, as might be expected. The universities were well filled, by the sons of yeomen chiefly. The cost of supporting them at the colleges was little, and wealth}- men took a pride in helping forward any l)oys of promise. It seem? clear also, as the Refornuition drew nearer, while the clere^v were sinking lower and lower, a marked change for the better became perce|)tible in a portion at least of the laity. The more old-fashioned of the higher ranks were slow in moving ; for as late as the reign of Edward VI. there were peers of parliament unable to read ; but on the whole, the invention of printing, and the general ferinent which was commencing all over the world, had produced marked effects in all classes. Henry VI 11. himself 166 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. spoke four Iniii^nages, and was well read in tlieology and history ; and the high aceomphshaients of More and Sir T. Elhott, of Wyatt and Cromwell, were but the ex- treme expression of a temper wliich was rapidly spread- ing, and which gave occasion, among other things, to the following reflection in Erasmus: "Oh, strange vicissitudes of human things," exclaims he. " Here- tofore the heart of learning was among such as professed religion. Now, while they for the most part give them- selves up, veyitri luxui pecunoceque, the love of learning is gone from them to secular princes, the court, and the nobility. May we not justly be ashamed of ourselves ? The feasts of priests and divines are drowned in wine, are filled with scurrilous jests, sound with intemperate noise and tumult, flow with spiteful slanders and def- amation of others ; while at princes' tables modest disputations are held concerning things which make for learning and piety." A letter to Thomas Cromwell from his son's tutor will not be without interest on this subject ; Cromwell was likely to have been unusually careful in his chil- dren's training, and we need not suppose that all boys were brought up as prudently. Sir Peter Carew, for instance, being a boy at about the same time, and giving trouble at the High School at Exeter, was led home to his father's house at Ottery, coupled between two fox- hounds. Yet the education of Gregory Cromwell is probably not far above what many young men of the middle and higher ranks were beginning to receive. Henry Dowes was the tutor's name, beyond which fact 1 know nothing of him. His letter is as follows : " After that it pleased your mastership to give me in charge, not only to give diligent attendance upon Master Gregory, but also to instruct him with good letters, SIXTEENTH CENTURY ENGLISHMEN. KiT honest manners, pastyme of instruments, and sucli other qualities as sliould be for him meet and convenient, plcaseth it you to understand that for the accomplish- ment thereof I liave endeavoured myself by all ways possible to excogitate how I might most profit him. In ..which behalf, through his diligence, the success is such . ras I trust shall be to your good contentation and pleasure, 'and to his no small profit. But for cause the summer ,;svas spent in the service of the wild gods [and] it is so ^ much to be regarded after what fashion youth is brought up, in which time that that is learned for the 7Tiost part will not be wholly forgotten in the older years, I think it my duty to ascertain your mastership *' ^low he spendetli his time. And first after he hath ' heard mass he taketh a lecture of a dialogue of Erasmus' ' Colloquies,' called Pietas PueriUs, wherein is de- scribed a very picture of one that should be virtuously brought up ; and for cause it is so necessary for him, I do not only cause him to read it over, but also to prac- tise the precepts of the same. After this he exerciseth his hand in writing one or two hours, and readeth upon Fabyan's ' Chronicle' as long. The residue of the day he doth spend upon the lute and virginals. When he rideth, as he doth very oft, I tell him by the way some history of the Romans or the Greeks, which I cause him to rehearse again in a tale. For his recreation he useth to hawk and himt and shoot in his long bow, which frameth and succeedeth so well with him that he seemeth to be thereunto given by nature." I have spoken of the organization of the country population, I have now to speak of that of the towns, of the trading classes and manufacturing classes, the regula- tions respecting which arc no less remarkable and no less illustrative of the national character. Jf the tcndeucj; 108 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FUOUDE. of trade to assume at last a form of mere self-interest be irresistible, if political economy represent the laws to wliicli in the end it is forced to submit itself, the nation spared no efforts, either of art or policy, to defer to the last mom&nt the unwelcome conclusion. The names and shadows linger about London of certain ancient societies, the members of which may still occasionally be seen in quaint gilt barges pursuing their own difficult way among the swarming steamers ; when on certain days, the traditions concerning w^hich are fast dying out of memory, the Fishmongers' Company, the Goldsmiths' Company, the Mercers' Company, make procession down the riv^er for civic f eastings at Green- wich or Blackwall. The stately tokens of ancient honor still belong to them, and the remnants of ancient wealth and patronage and power. Their charters may be read by curious antiquaries, and the bills of fare of their ancient entertainments. But for what purpose they were called into being, what there was in these associa- tions of common trades to surround with gilded insignia, and how they came to be possessed of broad lands and church preferments, few people now care to think or to inquire. Trade and traders have no dignity any more in the eyes of any one, except what money lends to them ; and these outward symbols scarcely rouse even a passing feeling of curiosity. And yet these companies were once something more than names. They are all which now remain of a vast organization which once penetidted the entire trading life of England — an organ- ization set on foot to realize that most necessary, if most difficult, condition of commercial excellence under which man should deal faithfully with his brother, and all wares offered for sale, of whatever kind, should honestly be what they pretend to be. I spoke of the vSIXTEENTH CENTURY ENGLISHMEN. lt)9 military principle which directed the distribution ami the arranjj-ements of land. The aiialoo;v will best ex- plain a state of things in which every occupation was treated as the division of an army ; regiments being quartered in every town, each with its own self-elected officers, whose duty was to exercise authority over all *|)ersons professing the business to which they belonged ; who were to see that no person undertook to supply articles which he had not been educated to manufacture ; ,who were to determine the prices at which such articles ought justly to be sold ; above all, who were to take care that the common people really bought at shops and stalls wliat they supposed themselves to be buying ; that cloth put up for sale was true cloth, of true texture and full weight ; that leather was sound and well tanned ; wine pure, measures honest ; flour unmixed with devil's dust — who were generally to look to it that in all contracts between man and man for the supply of man's neces- sities, what we call honesty of dealing should be truly and faithfully observed. An organization for this pur- pose did once really exist in England, really trying to do the work which it was intended to do, as half the pages of our early statutes witness. In London, as the metropolis, a central council sate for every branch of trade, and this council was in communication with the Chancellor and the Crown. It was composed of the highest and most respectaljle members of the profession, and its office was to determine prices, fix wages, arrange the rules of apprenticeship, and discuss all details connected with the business on which legislation might be rec^uired. Fur- ther, this council received the reports of the searchers — high officers taken from their own body, whose business was to inspect, in company with the lord mayor or some other city dignitary, the shops of the respective traders ; 170 SKETCHES FKOM J. A. FROUDE. to receive complaints, and to examine into them. In each provincial town local councils sate in connection with the municipal authorities, who fulfilled in these places the same duties ; and their reports being forwarded to the central body, and considered by them, representations on all necessary matters were then made to the privy council ; and by the privy council, if requisite, were submitted to parliament. If these representations were judged to require legislative interference, the statutes which were passed in consequence were returned through the Chancellor to the mayors of the various towns and cities, by whom they were proclaimed as law. No person was allowed to open a trade or to commence a manufacture, either in London or the provinces, unless he had first served his apprenticeship ; unless he could prove to the satisfaction of the authorities that he was competent in his craft ; and unless he submitted as a matter of course to their supervision. The legislature had undertaken not to let that indispensable task go wholly unattempted, of distributing the various func- tions of society by the rule of capacity ; of compelling every man to do his duty in an honest following of his proper calling, securing to him that he in his turn should not be injured by his neighbor's misdoings. The state further promising for itself that all able- bodied men should be found in work, and not allowing any man to work at a l)usiness for which he was unfit, insisted as its natural light that children should not be allowed to grow up in idleness, to be returned at mature age upon its hands. Every child, so far as possible, was to be trained up in some business or calling, idleness " being the mother of all sin," and the essential duty of every man being to provide honestly for himself and his family. The educative theory, for such it was, was SIXTEEXTir CEXTLRV ENGLISHMEN. 171 simple but effective : it was based on the single principle that, next to the knowledge of a man's duty to God, and as a means toward doing that duty, the lirst condi- tion of a worthy life was the ability to maintain it in independence. Yarieties of inapplicable knowledge might be good, but they were not essential ; such .Ivjiowledge might be left to the leisure of after-years, or it might be dispensed with without vital injury. A-bility to labor could not be dispensed with, and this, therefore, the state felt it to be its own duty to see provided ; so reaching, I cannot but think, the heart of the whole matter. The children of those who could afford the small entrance fees were appi*enticed to trades, t]4e rest were apprenticed to agriculture ; and if children were found growing up idle, and their fathers or their friends failed to prove that they were able to secure them an ultimate maintenance, the mayors in towns and the magistrates in the country had authority to take possession of such children, and aj^prentice them as they saw fit, that when they grew up "they might not be driven" by want or incapacity " to dishonest courses," In the brief review of the system under which England was governed, we have seen a state of things in which the principles of political economy were, consciously or unconsciously, contradicted ; where an attempt, more or less successful, w^as made to bring the production and distribution of wealth under the moral rule of right and wrong ; and where those laws of supply and demand, which we are now taught to regard as immutable ordi- nances of nature, were absorbed or superseded by a higher code. It is necessary for me to repeat that I am not holding up the sixteenth century as a model which the nineteenth might safely follow. The population has become too large, employment has become too com- 17-2 SKETCHF.S FROM J. A. FROUDE. plicated and fluctuating, to admit of external control ; Avliile, in default of control, the relapse upon self-interest as the one motive principle is certain to ensue, and when it ensues is absolute in its operations. But as, even with us, these so-called ordinances of nature in time of war consent to be suspended, and duty to his country be- comes with every good citizen a higher motive of action than the advantages which he may gain in an enemy's market, so it is not uncheering to look back upon a time when the nation was in a normal condition of militancy against social injustice — when the government was enabled by happy circumstances to pursue into detail a single and serious aim at the well-being — ^well-being in its widest sense — of all members of the commonwealth. The world, indeed, was not made particularly pleasant. Of liberty, in the modern sense of the word, of the supposed right of every man "to do what he wdll with his own" or with himself, there was no idea. To the question, if ever it was asked, May I not do what I will with my own ? there was the brief answer, No man may do what is wrong, either with that which is his own or with that which is another's. Workmen were not allowed to take advantage of the scantiness of the labor market to exact extravagant wages. Capitalists were not allowed to drive the laborers from their holdings, and destroy their healthy independence. The antagonism of interests was absorbed into a relation of which equity was something more than the theoretic principle, and employers and employed were alike amenable to a law which both were compelled to obey. The workingman of modern times has bought the extension of his liberty at the price of his material comfort. The higher classes have gained in luxury what they have lost in power. It is not for the historian to balance advantages. His duty .is with the facts. .:'^RE CORONATION OF ANNE BOLEYN.* Queen Anne was at Greenwich, but according to (Mistom, the few precedino; days were to be spent at the Tower ; and on the 19th of May she was conducted thither in state by tr.e lord mayor and the city com- panies, with one of tliose splendid exhibitions npon the water which in the days when the silver Thames de- served its name, and the sun could shine down upon it out of the Que summer sky, were spectacles scarcely rivalled in gorgeoiisness by the world-famous wedding of the Adriatic. The river was crowded with boats ; the banks and tlie ships in the pool swarmed with people ; and Hfty great barges formed the procession, all blazing with gold and banners. The queen herself was in her own barge, close to that of the lord mayor ; and, in keeping with the fantastic genius of the time, she was preceded up the water b j a " foyst or wafter full of ord- nance, in M'hich was a great dragon continually moving and casting wildfire, and round about the foyst stood terrible monsters and wild men, casting fire and making hideous noise.'' So, with trumpets blo^^^ng, cannon pealing, the Tower guns answering the guns of the ships, in a bhize of fireworks and splendor, Anne l>olcyn was borne along to the great archway of the Tower, where the king was wvaiting on the stairs to receive her. *■ From •• History of iMiglaiul." n4 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. And now let us suppose eleven days to have elapsed, the welcome news to have arrived at length from Dunstable, and the fair summer morning of life dawning in treacherous beauty after the long night of expecta- tion. No bridal ceremo)iial had been possible ; the marriage had been huddled over hke a stolen love-match, and the marriage feast had been eaten in vexation and disappointment. These past mortifications were to be atoned for by a coronation pageant which the art and the w-ealth of the richest city in Europe should be poured out in the most lavish profusion to adorn. • On the morning of the 31st of May, the families of the London citizens were stirring early in all houses. From Temple Bar to the Tower, the streets were fresh strewed with gravel, the footpaths were railed oif along the whole distance, and occupied on one side by the guilds, their workmen, and apprentices, on the other by the city constables and officials in their gaudy uniforms, " with their staves in hand for to cause the people to keep good room and order," Cornhill and Graceclmrch Street had dressed their fronts in scarlet and crimson, in arras and tapestry, and the rich carpet-work from Persia and the East. Cheapside, to outshine her rivals, was draped even more splendidly in cloth of gold, and tissue, and velvet. The sheriffs were pacing uj) and down on their great Flemish horses, hung with liveries, and all the windows were thronged with ladies crowding to see the procession pass. At length the Tower guns opened, the grim gates rolled back, and under the arch- w^ay in the bright May sunshine, the long column began slowly to defile. Two states only permitted their repre- sentatives to grace the scene with their presence — Yenice and France. It was, perhaps, to make the most of this isolated countenance, that the French ambassador's train THE COROXATIO:S' OF ANNE BOLETN. 175 formed the van of the cavalcade. Twelve French knights came riding foremost in siircoats of blue velvet ■with sleeves of yellow silk, their horses trapped in blue, with white crosses powdered on their hangings. After them followed a troop of English gentlemen, two and two, and then the Knights of the Bath, "in gowns of violet, with hoods purfled with miniver like doctors." Ne^t, perhaps at a little interval, the abbots passed on, mitred in their robes ; the barons followed in crimson velvet, the bishops then, and then the earls and mar- quises, the dresses of each order increasing in elaborate gorgeousness. All these rode on in pairs. Then came alone Audeley, lord chancellor, and behind him the Venetian ambassador and the Archbishop of York ; the Archbishop of Canterbury, and Du Bellay, Bishop of Bayonne and «f Paris, not now with bugle and hunting- frock, but solemn with stole and crosier. Next, the lord mayor, with the city mace in hand, and Garter in his coat of arms ; and then Lord William Howard — Belted "Will Howard, of the Scottish Border, Marshal of England. The officers of the queen's household suc- ceeded the marshal in scarlet and gold, and the van of the procession was closed by the Duke of Suffolk, as high constable, with his silver wand. It is no easy matter to picture to ourselves the blazing trail of splen- dor which in such a pageant must have drawn along the London streets — those streets which now we know so black and smoke-grimed, themselves then radiant with masses of color, gold, and crimson, and violet. Yet there it was, and there the sun could shine upon it, and tens of thousands of eyes were gazing on the scene out of the crowded lattices. Glorious as the spectacle was, perhaps however, it passed unhcedod. Those eyes were watching all for 17G SKETCHES FROM J. A. FKOUOE. another object, wliicli now drew near. In an open space beliind the constable tliere was seen approaching "a w^hite chariot," dawn by two palfreys in white damask which swept the ground, a golden canopy borne above it making music with silver bells : and in the chariot sat the observed of all observers, the beautiful occasion of all this glittering homage ; fortune's play- thing of the hour, the Queen of England — queen at last — borne along upon the waves of this sea of glory, breath- ing the perfumed incense of greatness which she had risked her fair name, her delicacy, her honor, her self- respect, to win ; and she had won it. There she sate, dressed in white tissue robes, her fair hair flowing loose over her shoulders, and her temples circled with a light coronet of gold and diamonds — most beautiful — loveliest — most favored perhaps, as she seeihed at that hour, of all England's daughters. Alas ! " within the hollow round " of that coronet — " Kept death his court, unci there the antick sate Scoffing her state and grinning at her pomp. Allowing her a little breath, a little scene To monarchize, he feared, and kill with looks, Infusing her with self and vain conceit, As if the flesh winch walled about her life Were brass impregnable ; and humored thus. Bored through her castle walls ; and farewell, Queen." Fatal gift of greatness ! so dangerous ever ! so more than dangerous in those tremendous times when the fountains are broken loose of the great deeps of thought ; and nations are in the throes of revolution — when ancient order and law and tradition are splitting in the social earthquake ; and as the opposing forces wrestle to and fro, those unhappy ones who stand out above the crowd become the symbols of the struggle, and fall the THE CORONATION OF ANNE BOLEYN. 177 victims of its alternating fortunes. And what if into an unsteady heart and brain, intoxicated with splendor, the outward chaos should find its way, converting the poor silly soul into an image of the same confusion — if con- science should be deposed from her high place, and the Pandora box be broken loose of passions and sensualities and follies ; and at length there be nothing left of all which man orwoiuan ought to value, save hope of God's forgiveness ? Three short years have yet to pass, and again, on a summer morning. Queen Anne Boleyn will leave the Tower of London — not radiant then with beauty on a gay errand of coronation, but a poor wandering ghost, on a sad tragic errand, from which she will never more return, passing away out of an earth where she may stay no longer, into a presence where, nevertheless, we know that all is well — for all of us — and therefore for her. But let us not cloud her short-lived sunshine with the shadow of the future. She went on in her loveliness, the peeresses following in their carriages, with the royal guard in their rear. In Fenchurch Street she was met by the children of the city schools ; and at the corner of Gracechurch Street a masterpiece had been prepared of the pseudo- classic art, then so fashionable, by the mer- chants of the Styllyard. A Mount Parnassus had been constructed, and a Helicon fountain upon it playing into a basin with four jets of Rhenisli wine. On the top of the mountain sat Apollo with Calliope at his feet, and on either side the remaining Muses, holding lutes or harps, and singing each of them some " posy" or epigram in praise of the queen, which was presented, after it had been sung, written in letters of gold. From Gracechurch Street the procession passed to Leadenhall, where there was a spectacle in l)etter taste. 178 SKETCHES FROM J, A. FROUDE. of the old English Catholic kind, quaint perhaps and forced, but truly and even beautifully emblematic. There was again a "little mountain," which was hung with red and white roses ; a gold ring was placed on the summit, on which, as the queen appeared, a white falcon was made to " descend as out of the sky," " and then incontinent came down an angel with great melody, and set a close crown of gold upon the falcon's head ; and in the same pageant sat Saint Anne with all her issue beneath her ; and Mary Cleophas with her four children, of the which children one made a goodly oration to the queen, of the fruitfulness of St. Anne, trusting that like fruit should come of her." With such " pretty conceits," at that time the honest tokens of an English welcome, the new queen was received by the citizens of London. These scenes must be multiplied by the number of the streets, where some fresh fancy met her at every turn. To preserve the festivities from flagging, every fountain and conduit within the walls ran all day with wine ; the bells of every steeple were ringing ; children lay in wait with songs, and ladies with posies, in which all the resources of fantastic extravagance were exhausted ; and thus in an unbroken triumph — and to outward appearance re- ceived with the warmest affection — she passed under Temple Bar, down the Strand by Charing Cross, to Westminster Hall. The king was not with her through- out the day ; nor did he intend to be with her in any part of the ceremony. She was to reign without a rival, the undisputed sovereign of the hour. Saturday being passed in showing herself to the people, she retired for the night to " the king's manor house at Westminster," where she slept. On the fol- lowing morning, between ei^ht and nine o'clock, she THE COKOXATIOX OF AXXE BOLEYN". 179 returned to the haU, where the lord mayor, the city council, and the peers were again assembled, and took her place on the high dais at the top of the stairs under the cloth of state ; while the bishops, the abbots, and the monks of the abbey formed in the area. A railed way had been laid with carpets across Palace Yard and the iSanctuary to the abbey gates, and when all was ready, preceded by the peers in their robes of parliament, the Knights of the Garter in the dress of the order, she swept out under her canopy, the bishops and the monks " solemnly singing. " The train was borne by the old Duchess of Norfolk her aunt, the Bishops of London and Winchester on either side " bearing up the lappets of her robe." The Earl of Oxford carried the crown on its cushiop immediately before her. She was dressed in purple velvet furred with ermine, her hair escaping loose, as she usually wore it, under a wreath of diamonds. On entering the abbey, she was led to the coronation chair, where she sat while the train fell into their places, and the preliminaries of the ceremonial were despatched. Then she was conducted up to the high altar, and anointed Queen of England, and she received from the hands of Cranmer, fresh come in haste from Dunstable, with the last words of his sentence upon Catherine scarcely silent upon his lips, the golden sceptre, and St. Edward's crown. Did any twinge of remorse, any pang of painful recollection, pierce at that moment the incense of glory which she was inhaling ? Did any vision flit across her of a sad mourning figure which once had stood where she was standing, now desolate, neglected, sinking into the darkening twilight of a life cut short by sorrow ? Who can tell ? At such a time, that figui'c would have weighed heavily upon a noble mind, and a wise mind 180 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. would liave been taught by the thought of it, that, although life be fleeting as a dream, it is long enough to experience strange vicissitudes of fortune. But Anne Boleyn was not noble and was not wise — too probably she felt nothing but the delicious, all-absorbing, all- intoxicating present ; and if that plain, suffering face presented itself to her memory at all, we may fear that it was rather as a foil to her own surpassing loveliness. Two years later she was able to exult over Catherine's death ; she is not likely to have thought of her with gentler feelings in the lirst glow and flush of triumph. VI. ^?. JOHN BUN Y AN.* ^^ He was happy in his family. His blind child, for whom he had been so touchingly anxious, had died while he was in prison. His other children lived atid did well ; and his brave companion, who had spoken so stoutly for him to the judges, continued at his side. His health, it was said, had suffered from his confine- ment ; bu^the only serious illness which we hear of was an attack of " sweating sickness," which came upon him in 1687, and from which he never thoroughly re- covered He was then fifty-nine, and in the next year he died. His end was characteristic. It was brought on by ex- posure when he was engaged in an act of charity. A quarrel had broken out in a family at Reading with which Bunyan had some acquaintance. A father had taken offence at his son, and threatened to disinherit him. Bunyan undertook a journey on horseback from Bedford to Reading in the hope of reconciling them. Pie succeeded, but at the cost of his life. Returning by London, he was overtaken on the road by a storm of rain, and was wetted through before he could find shelter. The chill, falling on a constitution already weakened by illness, brought on fever. lie was able to * Part of the last cliaptcr of " Julm Bunyan," in the series of " Englisli Men of Letters." 183 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROTTDE. reach the liouse of Mr. Strudwick, one of his London friends ; but lie never left his bed afterward. In ten days he was dead. The exact date is uncertain. It was toward the end of August, 1688, between two and three months before the landing of King William. He was buried in Mr. Strudwick's vault, in the Dissenters' burying-ground at Bunhill Fields. His last words were, " Take me, for I come to Thee." So ended, at the age of sixty, a man who, if his im- portance may be measured by the influence which he has exerted over succeeding generations, must be counted among the most extraordinary persons whom England has j^roduced. It has been the fashion to dwell on the disadvantages of his education, and to regret the carelessness of nature which brought into existence a man of genius in a tinker's hut at Elstow. Xature is less partial than she appears, and all situations in life have their compensations along with them. Circumstances, I should say, qualified Bunyan per- fectly Avell for the work which he had to do. If he had gone to school, as he said, with Aristotle and Plato ; if he had been broken in at a university and been turned into a bishop ; if he had been in any one of the learned professions, he might easily have lost, or might have never known, the secret of his powers. He was born to he the Poet-apostle of the English middle classes, im- perfectly educated like himself ; and, being one of themselves, he had the key of their thoughts and feel- ings in hi s own heart. Like nine out of ten of his countrymen, lie came into the world with no fortune but his industry. He had to work with his hands for his bread, and to advance by the side of his neighbors along the road of common business. His knowledge was scanty, though of rare quality. He knew his Bible JOHX BUXYAN. 183 probably by heart. He had studied history in Foxe'.s ' ' Martyrs, ' ' but nowhere else that we can trace. The rest of his mental furniture was gathered at first hand from his conscience, his life, and his occupations. Thus, every idea which he received falling into a soil naturally fertile, sprouted up fresh, vigorous, and original. He confessed ";to have felt (as a man of his powers could hardly have failed to feel) continued doubts about the Bible and the •reality of the Divine government. It has been well said 'that w^hen we look into the world to find the image of God, it is as if we were to stand before a looking-glass, expecting to see ourselves reflected there, and to see nothing. Education scarcely improves our perception /in this respect ; and wider information, wider acquaint- ance with the thoughts of other men in other ages and countries, might as easily have increased his difficulties as have assisted him in overcoming them. He was not a man who could have contented himself with compro- mises and half-convictions. No force could have sub- dued him into a decent Anglican divine — a " Mr. Two Tongues, parson of the parish." He was passionate and thorough -going. The authority of conscience presented itself to him only in the shape of religious obligation. Religion once shaken into a " perhaps," would have had no existence to him ; and it is easy to conceive a uni- versity-bred Bunyan, an intellectual meteor, flaring uselessly across the sky and disappearing in smoke and nothingness. Powerful temperaments are necessarily intense. Bunyan, Ixirn a tinker, had heard right and wrong preached to him in the name of the Christian creed. He concluded after a struggle that Christianity was true, and on that conviction he built himself up into what he was. It might have been the same, perhaps, with Burns 184 - SKETCHES FKOM J. A. FROUDE. had lie been born a century before. Given Christianity as an unquestionably true account of the situation and future prospects of man, the feature of it most appalling to the imagination is that hell-fire— a torment exceeding the most horrible which fancy can conceive, and extend- ing into eternity— awaits the enormous majority of the human race. The dreadful probability seized hold on the young Bunyan's mind. lie shuddered at it when awake. In the visions of the night it came before him in the tremendous details of the dreadful reality. It became the governing thought in his nature. Such a belief, if it does not drive a man to madness, will at least cure him of trifling. It will clear his mind of false sentiment, take the nonsense out of him, and enable him to resist vulgar temptation as nothing else will. The danger is that the mind may not bear the strain, that the belief itself may crack and leave noth- ing. Bunyan was hardly tried, but in him the belief did not crack. It spread over his character. It filled him first with terror ; then with a loathing of sin, which entailed so awful a penalty ; then, as his personal fears were allayed by the recognition of Christ, it turned to tenderness and pity. There was no fanaticism in Bunyan, nothing harsh or savage. His natural humor perhaps saved him. His few recorded sayings all refer to the one central ques- tion ; but healthy seriousness often best expresses itself in playful quaintness. He was once going somewhere disguised as a wagoner. He was overtaken by a con- stable, who had a warrant to arrest him. The constable asked him if he knew that devil of a fellow Bunyan. " Know him !" Bunyan said. " You might call him a devil if you knew him as well as I once did." A Cambridge student was trying to show him what a JOHN BL'NYAX. 185 divine thing reason was — '" reason, the chief glory ut man, which distingnishes him from a beast," etc., etc. Bunyan growled out, " Sin distinguishes man from beast. Is sin divine ?" He was extremely tolerant in his terms of Church «, membership. He offended the stricter part of his con- 'gregation by refusing even to make infant baptism a -Condition of exclusion. The only persons with whom ,Jie declined to communicate were those whose lives were openly immoral. His chief objection to the Church of England was the admission of the ungodly to the Sacra- ments. He hated party titles and quarrels upon trifles. He desired himself to be called a Christian or a Believer, • or '* any name which was approved by the Holy Ghost." Divisions^ he said, were to churches like wars to countries. Those wdio talked most about religion cared least for it ; and controversies about doubtful things, and things of little moment, ate up all zeal for things which were practicable and indisputable. " In countenance," wrote a friend, " he appeared to be of a stern and rough temper, but in his conversation mild and affable ; not given to locpiacity or to much dis- course in company unless some urgent occasion required it ; observing never to boast of himself or his parts, but rather to seem low in his own eyes, and submit himself to the judgment of others ; abhorring lying and swear- ing ; being just, in all that lay in his power, to his word ; not seeming to revenge injuries ; loving to rec- oncile differences and make friendships with all. He had a sharp, quick eye, with an excellent discerning of persons, being of good judgment and (piiek wit." " He was tall of stature, strong-boned, though not corpulent, somewhat of a ruddy face, with s})arkling eyes, wearing his hair on his upper 11]) ; his luiir reddish, but in his 180 SKETCUKS FRO.\f J. A. FROUDE. iater days time liad sprinkled it with gray ; his nose well set, but not declining or bending ; his mouth moder- ate large, his forehead something high, and his habit always plain and modest." He was himself indifferent to advancement, and he did not seek it for his family. A London merchant offered to take his son into his house. " God," he said, " did not send me to advance my family, but to preach the Gospel." He had no vanity — an exemption ex- tremely rare in those wdio are personally much before the public. The personal popularity was in fact the part of his situation which he least liked. When he was to preach in London, " if there was but one day's notice the meeting-house was crowded to overflowing." Twelve hundred people would be found collected before seven o'clock on a dark winter's morning to hear a lect- ure from him. Li Zoar Street, Southwark, his church was sometimes so crowded that he had to be lifted to the pulpit stairs over the congregation's heads. It pleased him, but he was on the watch against the pleas- ure of being himself admired. A friend complimented him once, after service, on " the sweet sermon" which he had delivered. " You need not remind me of that," he said. " The devil told me of it before 1 was out of the pulpit." VII. ^'- ■ LEAVES FROM A SOUTH AFRICAN V- JOURInTAL.* In the summer of 1874 I paid a visit to South Africa. Having leisure on my hands, I wished to use it to stud} the working of an English colony. I had been interested in the exertions of Miss Rye to carry the waifs and strays of our swarming population of children to countries where their chances in after life would be more favorable than here, and 1 desired to ascertain how far the colonial authorities would be willing to assist in carrying out a systematic emigration of such children on a larger scale. My attention had been drawn especially to South Africa, through what is known as the Langa- balele disturbance in Natal, in which two large native tribes had been destroyed. The head of one of them, Langabalele himself, had been tried and condemned by Kafir law, the Governor presiding in the capacity of supreme chief. The proceeding appeared to have been arbitrary and violent, and 1 desired to know the truth about it. I resolved at the same time to extend my tour to the neigliboi'ing republics. Between these republics and the Imperial Government a quarrel had arisen in consequence of the British occupation of the lately dis- covered Diamond Fields, which had previously formed * The political remarks of Mr. Froude have been omitted in this collection.— Editok. 18S SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. part of tlie territoiy of tlie Orange Free State. The dispute bad interested me from tlie contradictory state- ments wliicli I had read about it. I wished to learn the liistory of the transaction from disinterested parties upon the spot, and to learn especially how far the annex- ation had been approved by colonial opinion. The following pages contain extracts from the journal which 1 carried with me. A few light sketches of the society and the scenery of a country in which England is beginning to be interested, may serve as a relief to the serious subjects with which this volume is chiefly ocupied. 1 leave them almost as they were first written. ^Vhat merit they possess— if they possess any merit at all — will be due to the freshness of impressions which were noted down as they were formed. 1874, August 23. — Left Dartmouth in the ^Valmer Castle. Full complement of passengers. Africanders all, or most of them, with whom I shall in time make acquaintance. Before 1 left the harbor 1 was intro- duced to a Natal judge, who was on his way home. The judge had been out of the colony when Langabalele was tried, but answered readily any questions which I asked. He said that in his opinion there had been no intention of rebellion. It v/as a mere police case, and ought to have been treated so ; still, naturally enough, lie endeavored to excuse the authorities. A youth at dinner, reflecting, 1 suppose, colonial opinion, insisted that but for the timely vigor, etc. , which had been dis- played, all Africa would have been on fire. August 25. — Weather fine. Sea smooth. Air grow- ing rapidly hot. The passengers with whom I fall into conversation speak of the Kafirs not unkindly. They describe them as having splendid natural qualities, but as being ruined by the mistaken treatment which Eng- SOUTH AFRICAN" NOTES. 18'.t land insists upon. If the Dutch and the English of the colony were allowed to deal with them in their own way, they conceive that the native character might be really improved ; as it is they look to rum and brandy '-as the probable solution of the problem. If rum and brandy, why not strychnine at once ? '^'^^ August -20.— ExqulsitG weather. The sea calm as Torbay in stillest summer. The water \^olet color. jQne thinks of Homer's loeiSea ttovtov. Last night we had a remarkable sunset. The disk, as it touched the horizon, was deep crimson. As the last e6ge of the rim disappeared there came a flash, lasting for a secondly of dazzling green — the creation I suppose of my own eyes. The trades now beginning. The judge and I talk and smoke, and gradually the condition of the colony comes out. Colored men do not serve on juries in Natal, and the result is what might be expected. He once himself tried a white man who had murdered a Kafir, and was caught red-handed. The jury brought a verdict of not guilty, and the audience in the court cheered. The judge said he could hardly speak for shame. 1 do not yet make out the Boers, who are described as lazy, indifferent to progress or money-mak- ing, thinking little of politics, and only resenting Eng- lish interference with them ; yet most people to whom 1 talk seem to agree that in the Orange Free State the natives are better managed than in any other part of Africa. Such a business as that of Langabalele could not possibly have happened there. August 31. — Yesterday was Sunday ; the sky over- cast and the air close. The Captain read prayers in the cabin in the morning. In the evening the cparter-deck 190 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FKUUDE. was cleared for chapel. Lamps were liung- under the awning and a Wesleyan "conducted a service." Several hymns were sung, " Oh Paradise ! oh Para- dise !" and " Rock of Ages," among them. The choir was composed of young ladies, whose week-day perform- ances 1 had thought vulgar and underbred. It was strange to observe liow completely the vulgarity disappeared under the constraint of forms with which they were unable to take liberties. The sermon reminded me of the motion of a squirrel in a cage : the repetition of a single idea with scarcely a variation of words, without natural beginning and without natural end, and capable, if necessary, of going on forever. Se2)tember 2. — Reached St. Vincent at noon yester- day. The approach to the harbor lies between the islands of St. Vincent and San Antonio. San Antonio is a mountain ridge, 7000 feet high and thirty miles long, the sloping sides split into chasms, in which, so far as I could see, not so much as a blade of grass was growing. St. Vincent, on the left, is naked rock, sharp, jagged, and precipitous, the highest point of it under 3000 feet. The harbor is land-locked. Talk of the sunny south, the land of cypress and myrtle and orange grove ! At St. Vincent grows nothing but a dusky scrub, in a hollow into which the wind has blown the sand. The rest of the island is sterile, stern, and savage. No kindly rain or frost here jjulverizcs the stone into soil. The peaks istand out sharp, like the teeth of some primeval dragon, huge molars and incisors, with here and there a gap where a tusk has decayed with age. There are no springs, no streams. Throughout the year scarcely a shower falls there, and thei'efore not a green blade of grass can show itself. The town is a coaling station, juuch frequented by passing steamers. The inhabitants SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 191 are chiefly blacks or half-castes, whose business is to prej on visitors. Naked nigger boys swim round the ship div'ing for sixpences. Black sirens, handsome and im- modest, tempt the passengers into the dancing sahjons, which are opened when a steamer comes in. What a notion must these wretched creatures have of the outer wdrld, from the glimpses which they are tlius able to get. of its passing occupants. I went over the jail, which is attached to the Governor's house, and the nig- ger turnkey showed me with a grin a special ward re- served for the English. The talk of the colonists on board ranges between wool, ostrich feathers, and ten per eent on freightage. Colonial politics they regard as avowedly nothing but a scramble for the plunder of office. They^bet every day on the number of the miles which the ship will have run at noon in the j)ast twenty - four hours, and are as eager about it as Yankees. Septernljer 4. — To-day we are exactly under the sun. Fresh stars come into sight every night, and Sirius shines grandly like a planet. I have been feeding hitherto on Greek Plays : this morning 1 took Homer instead, and tlie change is from a hothouse to the open air. Tlie Greek dramatists, even ^Eschylus himself, are burdened with a painful consciousness of the problem of human life, with perplexed theories of Fate and Provi- dence. Homer is fresh, free, and salt as the ocean. Ulysses and Agamemnon are once more living and breathing men Puligion is simple and unconscious, and the gods, rough and questionable as they nuiy be, are without the malignity of later centuries. Achilles, when he sacrilices the Trojan youths at the tomb of I'atroclus, is rather censured for his cruelty than praised for his devotion. The notion of human sacrifice as a means of propitiating the anger of the gods must have 192 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE< been imported from Phoenicia, perhaps with the Phoeni- cian alphabet, progress, and the march of intellect ! Septe7tiher C. — We are now in the south-east trade, the sun to the north of us, and the heat less oppressive. I hear much of the Capo Dutch. The English colonists seem not to like them, and see their characters askew. The judge says a Boer's religion is like tlie Kafir Obeah. He is afraid of doing wrong, because he expects to be damned for it. Perhaps, substantially, this is the most valuable part of all religions — so long as it is really believed. Sejjtemher 7. — Sunday, a day of weariness : rest when there has been no toil to rest from— rest only from amusement, and therefore not rest at all. Captain W. read the morning service. The divines (we have two on board) were both sick, and unequal to an even- ing function. Another ten days ought to bring us to the Cape. The stars are changed. The pole-star is undel* the horizon. Already a new heaven ; in a few days tliere will be a new earth. The sea is no longer violet, but brilliantly transparent bluish green. It is spring this side of the line. At the Cape I shall find the almonds coming into flower. Septeniber 18. — The south-east trade dead in our teeth. The air grows colder and colder, for a week past we have gone back to our pea-jackets. The sea increases daily, and the rolling becomes more violent. This morning three distinct sets of waves, one set from the south-east, in the line of our course, another from the south, another from the south-west. They did not neutralize each other, but continued to propagate tliemselves, each in their own direction, ])roducing shapes entirely new to me. The cabins are in confusion : books tumbling off the shelvef, portmanteaus slipping on the floor, boots SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 193 and shoes dancing in wild disorder. Every day I grow more convinced that colonial and all other political ques- tions resolve themselves into one : What object do the ruling powers set before themselves ? Is it to produce a noble race of men, or is it to produce what they call wealth ? If they aim chiefly at the second they will not haive the first. Every wise man, whether Solomon or Plato, Horace or Shakespeare, has but one answer on this' subject : where your treasure is, there will your heart be. Let wealth be the sublime end of our exist- ence, and no new English nations will be born in the Cape or in Australia. England itself will be a huge grazing farm, managed on economical principles, and the people, however rich they may appear, will be steadily going^ down to what used to be called the Devil. Septemher 19. — Four weeks out. Still rolling, with a fierce sea and a head wind. I have given up serious books, and have taken instead to "Little Dorrit. " Dickens' wine has an excellent flavor, but it is watered for present consumption, and I doubt if it will keep. Captain "W. tells me that with S.E. winds in this lati- tude, a high barometer indicates that the wind will rise, and that if the mercury reaches 30*2 (it has been stand- ing for the last fortnight at 30-1), I shall see a heavier gale than I have yet experienced in my life. September 21. — Running into Table Bay. The moun- tain magnificent, 4000 feet high, and hanging over the town, with cliffs so sheer that a revolver would send a l)ii]lct from the edge of the precipice into the principal street. September 25. — At sea again. The three days, which was all that I could at present afford to Cape Town, have been extremely interesting, and have already opened my eyes to much wliicli I did not anticipate. iy4 SKETCITRS FROM J. A. FROUDE. Tlie town itself, which was built by the Dutch, is a curious old-fashioned place, with a modern skin imper- fectly stretched over it. You see threat old mansions in bad repair, with stiff gardens overrun with weeds, and old gateways tlanked by couching lions. The Dutch, among their many merits, introduced pine and oak here. The pine forests now cover the sides of the mountain. The oak grows rapidly to an enormous size, being in leaf for nine months in the year. Everywhere you see the marks of the stiff, stubborn, Calvinistic Holland. The hotel in which I stayed was once the house of eome wealthy citizen. The floors up-stairs are of stone. The walls are panelled, the ceilings carved. The sash win- dows are huge, heavy, and close-fitting. The dinner- room is so stiff of aspect that the pert modern waiter seems subdued by the atmosphere of it into old-fashioned politeness. Cape Town has twice had its day of splen- dor. Once under the Dutch government, and again when it was the sanatorium of Bombay and Bengal and the East Indian magnates used to come there to recruit their livers. Now, even now, it was a pleasant thing to see the English flag flying over a spot which, whatever might be its fortunes, was still the most im^iortant naval station in the world. Among other persons I called on Mr. Saul Solomon, whom 1 had often heard of as the advocate of the Exeter Hall policy toward the natives. Nature has been unkind to Mr. Solomon. He is scarcely taller than Tom Thumb. It is the more honorable to him that, with such disadvantages, he has made himself one of the most useful, as well as one of the most important per- sons in the Cape colony. The Colonial Parliament and Ministry having approved of the operations in Natal against Langabalole and his tribe, having indeed taken SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 195 charge of Laiigabalele as a state prisoner, I thought I should learn from Mr. Solomon what was really to be said in defence of the Natal government. Mr. Solomon spoke, on the contrary, in terms of the strongest repro- bation of what had been done ; but he was shy of promising any help in the Cape Parliament should the Jitiperial Government desire Langabalele to be released. He seemed satisfied to think that the Imperial Govern- ment was in a mess, and must get out of it as well as it eould. He was cold also about emigration. White and black laborers, he said, never worked well together, and he seemed generally afraid that if the white race became more numerous, the natives might be handled less scrupulously. The day following I accompanied the still more emi- nent Mr. to his country house near Constantia. The road lay through groves of oak. The house itself is a hundred and fifty years old, and is well built, with large airy rooms, strong, warm, and enduring. Tlie solidity of everything here contrasts strangely witli the showy flimsiness of the mansions run up by contract in more modern settlements. Mr. is an extremely in- teresting person. He drove me through the Constantia country, among pine and oak forests, opening into ex- quisite vineyards, about the slopes of the great moun- tain. Leaving the forests, we then struck across the natural plains, clothed with silver trees and sugar bushes, and carpeted with wild heather and wild geraniums, the sea in the distance soft and beautiful as the Mediterra- nean. Tlie peninsula of Table Mountain, cut off from the rest of Africa, would certainly make one of the most precious possessions in the world. It could be made im- prognable at a moderate expense. It is alwut the size of Madeira, and of infinite fertility. It contains tlio 106 SKETCHES FROir J. A. FROUDF. only harbor available for ships of war either on the east or west coast for many thousand miles. Whoever holds this peninsula commands the ocean commerce round the Cape. The peninsula commands South Africa, for it commands its harbors. "Were England wise in her generation, a line of forts from Table Bay to False Bay would be the northern limit of her Imperial responsibilities. Septetnber 27. — We arrived yesterday at Port Eliza- beth, on Algoa Bay, after a rapid run of thirty-nine hours, distance 500 miles from Cape Town. Port Eliza- beth is a handsome modern town, the chief port of the eastern provinces, lying on an open hill-side as Brighton does. There is no harbor, but the roadstead is sheltered on the dangerous quarter, and is crowded with vessels of all sizes. The loading and discharging is by lighters, and managed as expeditiously as if the ship was in dock. The beach is flat ; the available extent of it has been much reduced by an attempted basin, inclosed by wooden piers, which was no sooner made than it filled in with sand. The bales and boxes are landed through the surf on the backs of natives ; splendid fellows, with the shape of an Antinous, stark naked, and shining from the water as if they were oiled. The black skin, which is of the texture of hippopotamus hide, seems to answer the purposes of modesty. These fellows earn six shillings a day ; they live on one, save the rest, and when they have enough, they go inland, buy cattle, and two or three wives to work for them, and do nothing the rest of their lives. They all have the franchise. I asked one of the members for the town how they managed at elec- tion times. " Oh," he said, " we send a few barrels of brandy into the native location." The Florence^ Sevtemher 30, 7 a.m. — Running SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 197 along the African coast. Yesterday, we called at East London, and lay all day there with a fearful roll dis- charging cargo. East London lies at the mouth of the Buffalo lliver, at the most exposed point of the conti- nent. The shore is strewed with the wrecks of miser- able vessels which have gone to pieces there. By and by I am told that it is to be the finest port in the colony, and so sanguine is the Colonial Government that exten- BiYe railway works are already in progress in connection with it. Inside the river is like the Dart, and is about the same size, with a fair depth of water for a couple of miles. The banks are high and wooded with Mimosa, prickly pear, the giant Euphorbia Candelabra, and other trees which 1 did not know. The mouth, unfortu- nately, is at present closed -sv^th a sandbar, over which, by watching our opportunity, the day being exceptionally fine for East London, we contrive to pass in a life-boat. The engineers' are hard at work narrowing the entrance, which they conclude that the scour of the tide will then keep open. But the rise and fall even at the springs is only six feet, a small force for so large an enterprise, and the Lidian Ocean is a formidable enemy. Mr. Leicester, the chief engineer, is certain of success. I should have felt more sanguine if he had been himself less enthusiastic. We are now off Kreli's country — indejoendent Kafir- land — a strip two hundred miles long, which divides Katal from the Colony. "We pass within half a mile of the shore to avoid the current which sets outside steadily to the west. From the sea it seems as if Kreli was king of Paradise itself. A series of exquisite English [>arks succeed one after the other ; undulating grassy lawns, interspersed with woods and divided every four or five miles by rivers, the course of which we trace by the pro- 198 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. jecting crags and tlie ricli verdure of tlie ravines. Each of these streams is unhappily blocked by sand as East London is. The surf roars at their mouths with mo- notonous thunder, never resting, never perhaps to rest wliile the globe continues to revolve. The people of the nation to come, who w^ill bj and by fill this beautiful country, will never sail in either ship or boat on the water which they will see so near them. The steamers will go by their windows almost within hailing distance, but the passengers must be carried on for a hundred miles before they can set foot on shore. The skilfullest crew that ever launched a life-boat would be dashed in pieces in a moment in those tremendous rollers. We had excellent fresh fish for breakfast this rhom- ing. Gigantic mackerel, twenty to thirty pounds weight, follow the steamer. The passengers are fishing for them with halyard rope for lines, and flies construct- ed of strips of scarlet cloth fastened on sharp hooks. The mackerel rise in the wake like salmon. We are going ten knots. Four out of five break off from the speed, a fifth catches tight hold, and three or four of the men are required to haul him in. We had nine of these monsters on the deck in half an hour this morning. So far as my experience goes, they are the only fish worth eating that the Indian Ocean produces. On shore there are few signs of life and less of culti- vation. A few herds of Kafir cattle, a few kraals (native villages) at long intervals, here and there a black figure slowly moving along the sands, seem the solitary human occupants of a land as fair as Homer's Island of the Blest. We have a distinguished journalist on board. I scan- dalized him by saying that I thought that in a hundred years newspapers would be abolished by general consent SOUTH AFRICA J^ XOTES. 109 as a nuisance. A gazette of authentic news would be published by authority, and that would be all. I was told a characteristic story of a Dutch farmer to- day. His estate adjoined the Diamond Fields. Had he - remained where he was, he could have made a large fortune. Milk, butter, poultry, eggs, vegetables, fniit, p-'j-an up to_ fabulous prices. The market was his own to demand w-hat he pleased. But he was disgusted at the ^•"intrusion upon his solitude. The diggers worried him ' trom morning to night demanding to buy, while he re- quired his farm produce for his own family. He sold his land, in liis impatience, for a tenth of what he might have got had lie cared to wait and bargain, mounted liis /wife and children into his wagon, and moved off into the wilderness. AVhich was the wisest man ? the Dutcli farmer or the Yankee Englishman who was laughing at him ? The only book that the Dutchman had ever read was the Bible, and he knew no better. The whole talk among these people is of diamond fields, and gold fields, and diamonds and gold never made the material of a nation, and never will. Durban, October 2. — The harbor at Durban, named after Sir Benjamin D'Urban, the most popular governor who ever ruled at the Cape, is the spot where Vasco da Gama landed on Christmas Day, in 1498. The country of which Durban is the port, acquired in this way the name of Natal. After an interval of 400 miles nature lias relaxed in her monotony, and has created of herself a channel of the same kind as that which Mr. Leicester is attempting to make at East London. A high wooded ridge or bluff, curved and narrow, juts out from the coast-line, stretches parallel to it for two miles toward the east, and then bends round and terminates, forming a natural ]>rcakwater. A long point runs out to meet it, 200 SKETCHES FROM ,1. A. FROUDE. and thus inside is formed a, land-loeked basin ten or twelve miles in circumference, the sea entering through a single narrow passage, and the scour from so large a body of water being thus considerable. Even here there is a bar which the engineers in their attempts at im- provement have made rather worse, but in moderate weather vessels of 1000 tons can enter without much difficulty. The scene as we run m is singularly beauti- ful. The sky is cloudless. The sun, just risen, is faintly veiled by a soft Italian haze. The ships in the bay are dressed out in flags, wliite puffs of smoke break from a battery as the guns are fired in honor of the ar- rival of the steamer. We bring up in a deep channel close under the bluff, in the shade of tropical trees, among which the monkeys skip to and fro, and from which occasionally a too-curious python makes his way along the cable by which ships are moored to the shore. "We land at the custom-house, among a group of Natal- ians, who have hurried down to meet their friends. I am struck, as at Port Elizabeth, with tlie florid fleshy look of the settlers. The climate of the Cape suits well the lymphatic Teuton. The Dutch, w^ho have been there for two centuries, have expanded into the dimen- sions of Patagonians. I walked with one of the latter along the sands to the town. We had to cross a stream, and a Kafir undertook to carry us over. He staggered under the Dutchman, and had nearly fallen with him. With me he trotted away as if I had been a child. But I had as nearly dropped from him from another cause. It was my first experience of the smell in such close proximity. October 3. — The South African colonists are proud of their country, and are pleased to show it. I should have liked a day to look about me at leisure, but I was in the SOUTH AFRICAN" NOTES. 201 suite of a great person, to "vvliom it was necessary to show the sugar plantations with the least possible delay, and I have this moment returned from a thirty miles drive over roads as rough as Browning^s poetry, having -been jolted into idiocy, and having three times fainted ^or very near it), from the combined odor of negroes and molasses. _ But the country is pretty enough, undulating in rounded hills, the soil red and rich, the sugar planta- tions most extensive, and considering the difficulty of •the labor question, most creditable to ISTatal energy. The forest, when uncleared, is rich with a variety of trees, all new to me, and the varieties of wild creepers ■which I admired at East London. The planters' houses ,«ire prettily surrounded with orange and lemon trees. The climate of Katal is exquisite. The days are brill- iant and not overpoweringly hot. The nights are cool and fragrant with orange blossoms. The stars shine with a steady lustre. The fire-flies gleam. The moth- hawk hunts his fluttering prey. The Indian Ocean moans on the shore, and will moan on till the dav which Tintoret has painted, when the ships shall drift deserted on the waves, and the human inhabitants of the earth shall have passed away from it forever. Octoher 8. — The people are most kind, I have been staying for a day or two with a clever planter who has an estate and a sugar-mill outside the town. His house — a very handsome one — is finely situated on a brow over- looking the harbor ; it is itself of wood, and was brought out complete from Paris. My host talks much and rather bitterly on the Nigger question. If the Kafir would work, he could treble his profits. As matters are he depends mainly on coolies. If liberality and personal kindness would bring the Kafir into his service he would not find the difficulty which ho does. There could not 202 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. l)u a better master. It is an intricate problem. Here in Natal are nearly 400,000 natives, who have come in imder shelter of the British Government, to escape the tyranny of their own chiefs. They are allowed as much land as they want for their locations. They are polyg- amists, and treat their women as slaves, while they themselves idle, or do worse. Of whites in the colony there are but 18,000 all told. It is too natural that the whites should feel uneasy. There are large pythons in the woods here. My host told me (perhaps he was playing with my credulity) that one moonlight night he was cantering down his avenue, meaning to sleep at his place of business in the town, when he saw, as he thought, a tree left lying on the road. lie got off to remove it, when the tree became alive and attacked him. He was in evening dress, and had no weapon of any kind. The engagement lasted for twenty minutes, when, getting tired of it, he made a slip-knot in his silk pocket-handkerchief, passed it over the python's neck, and then drawing it tight, he jumped on to his horse, and dragged the monster behind him into Durban. There, as it seemed dead, he thrust it into a warehouse for the night. When he went to look at it in the morning, it had recovered from its adven- ture, but not wishing to renew the battle, dashed past him into the street and rolled away into the forest. I tell the tale as X. Y told it to me. Last night we had a native musical exhibition on the lawn. Forty or fifty Kafirs were brought in for my amusement. A large fire was made of pressed sugar- cane ; and then in the distance we heard a long low monotonous cry, growing louder as it approached, with a bugle breaking in absurdly at intervals. The ladies of our party arranged themselves in chairs in the veranda. <-•/,» SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 203 Presently a naked figure, with featliers in his hair, ran in on all-fours like a baboon, capered round the fire dangling an assegai and disappeared. More howling followed, and the procession came out from behind the bushes, chanting something which was like the baying of hounds at the moon, and stamping violently in time. The creatures ranged themselves round the tire and squattered on their haunches. Two or three had shirts, /■ the rest had a thin short wisp of goat's hair round their ' "loins, and that was all. In the uncertain light, in which they looked horribly apelike, they continued their song, or whatever it was. " Ho ha yah, ho ha yah," growing gradually louder and more guttural into '^ ITogh ha, /hunghha," till their chests began to heave and work, and fifty human beings were grunting like so many mad pigs inspired suddenly with an ambition to become nmsi- cians. They sweated, they steamed, they swung their clubs over their heads, pausing at intervals to gaze in each other's faces with rolling eyes and shining teeth, as if in rapt admiration of each other's loveliness. Notmtli- standing their exertions, they were not exhausted. They continued, eternally repeating the same movements and the same words. I asked what the words meant. It was no more than what a wolf intends by his howl. " I like killing. 1 Kke killing bull I like killing buck." The sole variation being a grunt of praise to the chief of the tribe. " Ilrunch, hrunch, brunch !" and at the end a prolonged " Ilaugh !" in honor of me as an English stranger. Such is the free Kafir of Natal, as he lives at his own sweet will under the shelter of the British dominion. Under his chief in the forest he is at least a man. Trained and disciplined under European authority, he might be- come as fine a specimen of manhood as an English or 204 SKETCHES FKOM J. A. FROUDE, Irish j)oliceman. Left at liberty to do as he pleases, this is what he becomes. Do we think the black races so superior to Europeans that they can improve without training ? Our grandfathers treated them as cattle ; we treat them as if it were a sin to lay them under the same restraint as our own children. Our cruelty and our ten- derness are alike fatal to them ; the second, perhaps, is the most fatal of the two. Maritzburg^ October 17. — Arrived here a week ago, after a picturesque drive of fifty miles on the mail-cart. After leaving the coast and the sugar plantations, signs of cultivation disappear almost wholly. There are a few farms scattered along the roadside, but with little sign of work upon them. The energy of the colony has gone into the transport department. The enormous wealth suddenly developed at the Diamond Fields has revolu- tionized South Africa. Horses, men, and cattle are out upon the roads wagon-driving between the Fields and the ports. The poor Kafirs must have many merits. The farmers go away, leaving their houses and their families and property undefended. No outrage is e\-er heard of. The wag(Mis are sent many hundred miles through a country almost uninhabited. They are loaded with a thousand articles which the natives much covet, and highway robbery is unknown. Yet the whites are afraid of them. No wonder, considering the disproportion of numbers. If they could be induced to work they would be manageable ; but the settlers legitimately dread the effects of deliberate idleness supported by polygamy and female slavery, on the native character. At Maritzburg I am occupied in preparing for my journey into the Free States. My equipage will be a strong African cart, six mules, a tent, a gun and a rifle, a black driver, and a joung Dutchman, son of a member SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 205 of the Natal Council, who goes with me to interpret and be otherwise useful. Maritzburg being the seat of Government, I find an unexpectedly cultivated and agreeable society there, and my friend the judge, who has accompanied me from Dartmouth, is the most charm- ing of hosts. .-';i The country round is at present a mere desert. How beautiful it will one day be, when it is irrigated and planted, a single specimen of what the soil can produce ' will suffice to show. Six years ago the judge, who understands gardening, purchased forty-five acres of perfectly open moor. The ^ spot which he selected was well situated, and sheltered tty a mountain, down which falls a stream of water. He fenced his ground in, and round the borders he sow^ed the seeds of a variety of coniferse and the Australian eucalyptus. In this short interval the seeds have shot up into trees forty or fifty feet high. Passing through them you find yourself among groves of oranges, and lemons, and citrons, and limes, figs, peaches, apricots, and almonds. On a favorable slope are a few acres of coffee-trees loaded with fruit. You leave the coffee and you are among flowering trees and shrubs. In a hollow is a sheet of water, fringed with roses, azaleas, and gera- niums. There is so much shade that you never feel the heat oppressive. If you require refreshment, you can stroll among the strawberry beds, or if you prefer it, among pineapples and melons. Whatever of rare or beautiful, either of the Old World or the New, European, African, or American, will flourish in this climate and soil, the judge has here cultivated, and so admirable are both that each plant contends with its neighbor which shall spring the soonest to the highest perfection. We had our luncheon in a dripping cave, festooned 20G SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. with ferns, at tlie edge of a waterfall. A fairer haunt was never seen for legendary spirit, and I had poured a silent libation to the nymph of the grotto before I re- membered that I was in a land where there was neither nymph nor fairy, faun nor saint. These airy beings do not thrive in English colonies under constitutional governments. Bushman'' s River, October 24. — The road through Katal is a gradual ascent from the sea level to the high plateau of the interior. From the summit of the Drachenberg range, the fall on the eastern side is marked by all the characters of mountain scenery ; sharp preci- pices, abrupt ravines, and rivers leaping down in a suc- cession of cascades. When I pass the crest, I am told that I shall find myself on a boundless plain, sloping westward imperceptil^ly for a thousand miles to the Atlantic. The roadside is fringed with the skeletons of the wretched mules and oxen, which, overdriven and brutally treated, have dropped out of the wagon teams and have fallen down and died. In a few hours their bones are cleaned b}^ the vultures. We are now 5000 feet above the sea. The Draclienberg is right in front of us, looking like the Pyrenees from Dax, the colors only softer and more Italian. The farms appear more and more neglected. I have not seen one laborer work- ing in the fields since I left Maritzburg. Horse, man, and ox are on the roads. It is all right, economically, I suppose. More money is to be made in this way. And the remains of the miserable cattle which have been flogged to death ? Well, they must have died some time. The camping places are strewed with broken tins and fragments of Hennessy's brandy bottles. The Kafir costume varies with the climate. Down at Durban it SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 207 was a liat and shoes, or more often neither. Up here the air is colder, and a cast-off soldier's jacket is in fashion, lower garments being dispensed with everj^- where. In the park at Maritzburg I saw a dandy Katir -srroom holdino- the horses of a curricle. He had a short smartly cut groom's coat, a hat with cockade, and noth- ^fOg else. Ilis lower limbs shone so brightly that they appeared to be polislied with blacking. The hotels on ^'e road are tolerable, bnt the manners of the colonists office I left Maritzburg do not improve. In the English colonies — in South Africa at any rate — there are a set of people who answer to the mean whites of the Southern States of America. A large part of our emigrants are jHore or less vagabonds, whom their friends have got rid •of. When they see out here any one who looks like a gentleman tliey make it their business to teach him at once that he is not in England by a rudeness which they mistake for independence. They suppose this country to be virtually a republic, and they consider courtesy to bo a bad tradition of the Old World. Tugeld River, Octoher 25. — A lovely evening, with a full moon, and a soft east wind blowing. I have been pitting in the veranda of the hotel, reluctant to go in. The landscape, the great forms of which are always beautiful, can here be best enjo^^ed at night, when the dead oxen are no longer visible, or the nakedness to which the country is doomed by the laziness of man. The land here, as elsewhere, is boundlessly fertile. A large river runs throufj^h it with abundant f;ill. Irrimi- tion is perfectly easy, yet nothing is done. At this hotel we drink the dirty drain water. I asked the landlord if he had no well. Within twenty feet of the surface there was obviously pure water in abundance. '* A well !" he said, indignantly ; " and who is to dig it { 208 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. The Government won't make tlie Kafirs work, and if they want wells, thej must make them themselves." Hotel under the Drachenherg, frontier of the Free State, Oetoher 27. — Here at least in the mountains, where the hill-sides and valleys are watered by nature, 1 lioped that I should at last taste fresh milk. But I could get only the eternal tinned milk from Switzerland, and they are out of vegetables, for an expected cargo of potatoes has not arrived from Limei'ick. My landlord at the Draclienberg, however, is not of the idle sort. He is a Boer, the first that I have seen, large-boned, healthy, and good-humored. He is a cattle and horse breeder, and being on the border, has a farm on the edge of it, where, undei the Free State laws, the Kafir servants can be better depended on. I leave Natal vnt\\ unhopeful feelings. The settlers themselves are not to blame. In the presence of a vast and increasing native population, encouraged in idleness by the indulgence of those detestable systems of polyg- amy and female slavery, it is impossible to expect white men to exert themselves for the genuine improvement of the colony. But the fact remains, that a country which seems to have been made by nature to be covered with thriving homesteads and a happy and prosperous people, is given over to l^arrenness and desolation. Be- fore there can be a change, some authority must be in- troduced there which will control both blacks and whites, and bring the relations between them into a more natural condition. The sole remedy thought of here is more freedom, and what they call a " 'sponsible ministry." They look to America, and they fancy the colonies have only to be free to grow as the United States have grown. America was colonized hefore the aloe had blos- somed. The grain of the old oak is in New England. SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 209 The English in South Africa are pnlpy endogens. They may make a nation some day, bnt they liave a long journey to travel first. One would like to knoAv the reflections which the aloe makes upon itself when it throws up its flowering stem. Did ever plant make such unexampled progress ? and progress so sure, too ; for is not the flower the promise of the seed of future aloes, the heart of the aloe's life ? Qfie splendid leap and bound, and a dull prickly shrub Itas shot into a tree, which is fringed with pendant bells. Each infant aloe colony at its side, blossoms too in tiny mimicry, saying to its parent, " Am not 1 as good as you? or possibly better?" How little either of them kiK)w the price which must be paid for their burst of vanity ! America was not established in this way. The price is death. Tlarrismith^ Orange Free State, Oatoher 'i^. — Crossed into the Free State yesterday. The top of the pass is 1800 feet above the hotel. Our cart was dragged up by oxen. The mules walked. The road on the Natal side winds up against the face of the mountain. We arrive at the top, and find, as I was led to expect, a plain level and boundless as the sea. ITarrismith, the first place we come to, is named after Sir Harry Smith, of Aliwal and Kafir war notoriety, and is a growing, well-conditioned town. The change of government is already apparent in the absence of loafing natives. The Free State laws against vagrancy are strict. Every man found wander- ing about may ])c called on to show how he is gaining his subsistence, and if he can give no satisfactory account of himself, he is set to woik on the roads. Leokof {Lion-head^, Saturday, Octoher 31. — I was in luck at Harrismitli. T fell :iv with Sir M. B , an English baronet, ex-caj)taiii of dragoons, who after some 210 SKETniRR FROM J. A. FROITDE. years of service in India, was obliged by bad health to leave the army, and not wishing to idle away the remain- der of his life in England, determined to settle as a farmer in South Africa. He entered into partnership with another Englishman, Mr. , an extreme Radical, but as Sir M. said, with apparent surprise at the possibility of such a thing, " a gentleman to the heels of h/j boots." They bought two tracts of land, one in the Transvaal, one in the Free State, and five years ago Sir M. was set down on the estate which was to be his future home, sixty miles east of Harrismith. It con- sisted of 19,000 acres of grassy wilderness, without so much as a shed or Kafir hut upon it, with a round kopf or hill, flat at top, with steep sides, rising out of the middle of it, which a few years since was a noted lion preserve. The plains were still covered with infinite herds of antelopes. His nearest neighbor was a Boer, twelve miles distant. He was unmarried and alone. Up to this time Sir M. had lived in the luxury of a smart cavalry regiment, and had never had less than three or four servants to anticipate every want. In South Africa at starting he had nothing to depend on but himself. He built his house with his own hands, with only a native or two to help him. He made fences and sheds and farm-buildings. He gathered cattle, sheep, and horses about him. He drove his own plough, he sheared his own lambs, he was his own mason, house carpenter, cook, and housemaid. Gradually he gathered servants and laborers about him, as a man who will work, himself is sure to do. The hardest part of the business is over. His farming prospers, and he is steadily and surely making a fortune. I met Sir M. at dinner at Harrismith. He was to return to Leokof the next day, and he invited me to SOUTH AFRICAK NOTES. 211 go with him. It lay on my own road to Pretoria, so it was settled that my cart and mules should follow at leisure. Sir M. took charge of me in his dog-cart, and we started with four half -broken horses, which he -drove splendidly. We slept on the road at a winkel^ or ;i9adside store, where Sir M. had an enthusiastic "^"welcome. In the morning we started early, and were here to breakfast. Sir M. is a tall handsome man about forty, with a hooked nose, a gray soldier's eye, a 'well-cut chin ; and in face, figure, and mind a thorough- bred aristocrat. By courtesy, uprightness, and natural superiority he coirmiands the respect of the Boers. lie accepts his situation, not cheerfully, but without com- plaint, sustained by tlie consciousness of success, and too proud to quarrel wdth a lot which he has made for him- self. Nature is hard up here 6000 feet above the sea. No more orange groves and rose gardens ; but the tree- less, shelterless plain, with the fierce sun by day and frosts at night, and thunder-storms beyond the worst 1 have ever witnessed in Europe. Sir M. is showing what an Englishman can still be. It is a rehef to me after what I saw in Natal, and I admire the character that has fought through so rude a trial. At meals he has but one table, and he sits himself at the head of it, witli his white servants on each side of him, well man- nered and respectful. So it was in England for many centuries, while the feudal loyalty, which democracy has not yet wholly worn away, made its way into the blood of our race. So old Cato dined with his serfs in the farm kitchen, probably on just such fare as we had before us to-day : soup, mutton, bread, and a glass or two of wine of the country. Novemher 4. — On the road to the Vaal River — First experience of camping out. I am alone in my tent with 212 SKETCHKS FHOM J. A. FROUDE. a glaring snn raising tlie temperature inside to 90 de- grees. The mules have strayed, being insufficiently hobbled. I sent Charley, my black driver, in search of them in the early morning. He returned with his face as near white as nature permitted, declaring that the devil had jumped out of the ground at his feet with four young ones. I suppose it was an ant-bear. Any way the n ules are lost. He has gone back to our last halting-place to look^ for them. My other youtli has started with a rifle to shoot buck, which are round us in tens of thousands, and liere am I by the side of a pond which is trampled by the antelopes into mud soup, the only stuff in the shape of water which we have to depend on for our coffee, and, alas ! for our washing. To add to the pleasure of the situation the season of the thunder- storms has set in. The lightning was playing round us all yesterday afternoon, and we shall now have a stonn daily. Whole teams of oxen are often killed. To a white man, they say, there is no danger while he has a black at his side, the latter being the better conductor. When one is struck another must be immediately substi- tuted. The Boers are shooting on the hills round me. They ride up to the herds and fire into the middle of them, a cart follows to carry the game, and the vultures wheel in hundreds overhead on the watch for the wounded. These antelopes consume the grass, and must be exter- minated before sheep and cattle can be reared. Ileidelherg^ November 7. — A young Boer brought in the mules, whicli he found fifteen miles off, making tlieir way back to Xatal. We were soon on the I'oad again, and yesterday evening crossed the Yaal River. We are now in the Transvaal Republic, the Alastia of South Africa, where every runaway from justice, every SOUTH AFRICAX NOTES. 213 broken-down speculator, every reckless adventurer linds an asylum ; while the gold just discovered is tempting stray Californians and Australians to try their fortune tliere as well. ^- Pretoria^ November 12. — At the farthest point of my iourney. Pretoria, the capital of the Transvaal and the ;^«^at of govfirnment of its famous President, lies in a basin snrrounded by rocky hills, at the rise of the Limpopo itiver. Springs of abundant and beautifully clear water 'break out in the adjoining valleys. The Dutch, who have a genius for irrigation, have carried open conduits alone: the streets. The trees in the moistened soil ^flourish with the greatest luxuriance. We have descend- ed 2000 feet from Harrismith ; and although the place is not yet a^uarter of a century old, you seem as you come down into the hollow of Pretoria, to be entering a forest of eucalyptus and oleander. Potscheff Strom, November 20. — On the road once more. On my way to this place from Pretoria I spent a night at the house of a representative Transvaal Boer, 01)erholster by name. Camping out has grown disagree- able. The forenoons are clear and hot. About two o'clock ilecks of cloud begin to show. By sunset the horizon is black all round, distant lightning flashing in every direction. The air becomes deathly still, and by this time your tent must be pitched, and a trench dug round it ; your cart must be secured, and your belong- ings lashed as tight as ropes can bind them. Suddenly, with a loud roar, comes a hurricane, sending dust, sand, gravel, whisking past, as if the bags of ^olus had burst. This lasts five minutes or so. Again a pause, and then the artillery of heaven opens out upon you, a crash as if from a thousand cannon, east, west, north, south, over- head and everywhere. The forked lightning blazes Mnth- 214 SKETCHES FROM .T. A. FROt'DE. out interval, red, white, blue, green The rain happily pours in cataracts along with it, or the trees and animals exposed would fare worse than they do. This sort of thing continues six or seven hours, and is repeated almost every day while the wet season lasts, so that a tent, notwithstanding the suj^erior cleanliness of it, no longer forms the most comfortable of night lodgings. My old Boer host on this occasion is a patriarch of sixty. His farm is large, well planted, and well culti- vated, and inside his house and outside there is an ap- pearance of rude abundance. On his hall table stands a huge clamped Bible of 1750, with a register of the family for 120 years. His sons and daughters are married, and live with their wives and husbands in cot- tages on the estate at no great distance. With each new family another hundred acres have been fenced in and brought under the plough. Children and grandchildren dropped in for the evening meal at the common table, young giants, handsome, grave, and ponderous, and bright-eyed girls dashing through the doors out of the storm, and flinging off their dripping hoods. Our sup- per consisted of cold venison, eggs, bread, and Indian corn, with — here at any rate — fresh milk. The old man said a long grace before and after. I glanced at the youths. There was not a sign of weariness about them. Their manners were perfectly simple and reverent. My bed was rough, but clean, and I was not disturbed by intruders. In the morning I was awoke by a psalm, with which the day's work always begins on a Boer's farm. The breakfast was like the supper overnight. The old lady and two young ones, who alone appeared of the party of the evening before, looked as stiff and prim as if they had walked out of one of Van Eyck's pictures. SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 215 The Diamond Fields, Noveiriber 28. — The storms put an end to mj gy P^J \\i^. I sold mv cart, mules, and guns at Potscheffstrom, sent my two lads home by a wagon to Natal, and took to the mail-cart. The roads are mere tracks, littered with stones the size of thirty- two-pound cannon-balls. The mail travels night and dijy, with ten mules or horses, and plunges on with supreme disregard either of rock or hole. The cart is roofed and curtained with leather, the brass buttons by which the curtains are fastened being so conveniently arranged that at each jolt you are likely to have your temple cut or your cheek laid open. The distance from Potscheffstrom to this place is from four to five hundred miles. I had several fellow-passengers, all characteristic of the spot for which I was Iwund. One was a Jew diamond dealer, another a storekeeper, another a digger, another a land shark or speculator. A fifth amused and instructed me. " When I first came to this country, sir," he said, " 1 tried industry ; but it didn't pay, and 1 took to scheming and did better." His schemmg con- sisted in going to England when the Diamond diggings were opened, buying a gambling and drinking saloon with all necessary fittings, securing the services of half a dozen young ladies from the Ilaymarket to attend, and carrying it all out and setting it going. With this con- trivance he made thirty or forty thousand pounds in one year, but he lost it the next in gambling. " Alas !" he said, all that 1 touch turns to gold. Any fool can make a fortune here, but it requires a wise man to keep it." On the evening of the third day after leaving Pot- scheffstrom, we came down to the Vaal River, intending to cross in a ferry-boat an hour before sunset. The thunder-clouds unf(>rtunately had gathered up that after- noon blacker than I had yet seen them. Between four 210 SKETCHES FROM J. A. EROUDE. and five o'clock the storm l)egan, and between the dark- ness and the blinding effects of the lightning, in tlie in- terv^als of the flashes we could scarcely see ten yards from us. Even in Sonth Africa I never saw such a dis- play of celestial fireworks. The lightning was rose color, deepening at times to crimson. Each flash appeared like a cross, a vertical line seeming to strike the earth, a second line crossing it horizontally. The air was a blaze of tire. The rain fell in such a deluge that the plain in a few minutes was like a lake. Of course we could not move. The horses stood shivering up to their fetlocks in water. At one time there was no interval between the flash and the report, so that w^e were in the very centre of the storm. The sense of utter helplessness prevented me from being nervous ; I sat still and looked at it in mere amazement. In two hours it was over. The sky cleared almost suddenly, and, with the dripping land- scape shining in the light of a summer sunset, we splashed on to the river, here about as broad as the Thames at Westminster. "We crossed M'ith some trouble, the ferry-boat being half full of water. Night being now on us in earnest, we had to wait at the ferry- man's hut till the moon rose. He had caught some barbel (so he called them) in the river with night lines. One of these monsters, as big as a moderate-sized pig, with an enormous head and long horns, the conductor l)0ught, to take on and sell at the Diamond Fields. The diggers are open-handed, and the price of anything at Kimberley (as my speculating friend told me) is whatever the owner likes to ask. 1 objected to this ad- dition to our compan_y in the wagon, so it was lashed to the pole underneath, the tail flapping on the sands. At 10.30 we started (having lost time to make up) with ten half-broken horses. I asked how the road was, and got r.. SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 217 a shrug for an answer. In a few minutes we were bounding at full speed over a track littered with cannon- balls, and our bodies flying like shuttlecocks between our seats and the roof. I for one felt as if I should go to ,-pieces. At intervals the conductor looked in, coolly say- 'ing, " Well, gentlemen, how do you feel yourselves ?" P-',i He knew by experience, I suppose, that we should be none the worse for it, and people do not go to South ^iricsL to be comfortable. Enough that at ten this morn- 'iffg we arrived at the spot which has caused so much heart-burning in South African society, and disturbed the market for jewels all over the world. The town of Kimberley, so called because Lord Kim- berley was the Colonial Minibter who is responsible for the annexation of this precious possession, is like a squalid Wimbledon Camp set down in an arid desert. The houses are of iron, wood, and canvas, every particle of which has been brought out from Enirland, and has been carried up on wagons from the sea. The streets are axle deep in what is either mud or dust according to the Eeaeon. The inhabitants, who are of all nations and colors, muster at the present time between twenty and thirty thousand, and may be described as the Bohemians of the four continents. By Bohemian I do not mean to be un- complimentary. I mean merely a class of persons who prefer adventure and speculation to settled industry, and who do not work well in the harness of ordinary life. Here are diggers from America and Australia, German speculators, Fenian head-centres, traders, saloon-keepers, professional gamblers, l)arristers (I heard one of these say it was a lawyer's Eldorado), ex-officers of the army and navy, younger sons of good fann'ly, who have not taken to a profespion or have Ixjen obliged to leave it. A mar- vellous motley assemblage, among whom money flo.\s 218 SKETCHKS FRONT J. A. FROUDK, like water from the amazing productiveness of the mine ; and in the midst of tlieni a hundred or so keen eyed Jewish merchants, who have gatliered like eagles over their prey, and a few thousand natives who have come to work for wages, to steal diamonds, and to lay their earn- ings out in rifles and powder. There are three pits out of which the diamonds are taken. One of them, two miles off, is comparatively un- productive ; one better, hut still negligently worked ; the third is the famous Koppe, about which the town has formed itself. Tliis Koppe was once a rounded hillock, swelling out of the plain and covered with mimosa trees, under the shade of which passing wagons stopjjed to rest. Eyes negligently looking round one day saw something shining in the grass ; a tuft was pulled up, and more sparks were seen about the roots. Digging began, and it was discovered that through the level shale which forms the ordinary surface an oval hole had been cut, as if by some elliptical boring tool, working with singular evenness. The lengtli of the opening is about 1200 feet, the breadth, 900, the sides perpendicular ; the depth unknown, for they are afraid to bore. A discovery that the bottom is near would destroy the value of the property. A discovery that there is no bottom would convulse the diamond market. At j)resent they have cut down about 120 feet. Four or five thousand blacks are picking into the blue crumbling substance, neither clay nor stone, in which the diamonds are imbedded. The area is divided into claims, or quadrilateral sections, thirty feet by twenty, "which are held as freeholds, and again are subdivided into half and quarter claims. Each owner works by himself or with his own servants. lie has his own wnre rrn^Q, and his own basket, by which he sends his stuff to SOUTIT AFRICAN NOTES. 219 the surface to be washed. The rim of tlie pit is fringed with windlasses. The descending wire-ropes stretch from them thick as gossamers on an autnmn meadow. The system is as demorahzing as it is ruinous. The owner cannot be ubiquitous : if he is with his washing- cradle, his servants in the pit steal his most valuable stdnes and secrete them. Forty per cent of the dia- monds discovered are supposed to be lost in this way. The sides fall in from the strain of so much weight on the brink. A company working the mine systematically with a couple of steam-engines could produce the same results with a tenth of the labor, and so obviously is the interest of the claim-owners in making the change, that if ritish flag, and the whole country governed by the Crown. When the Diamond Fields 2'-?0 SKETCHES FI10:\[ J. A. FROUDE. were annexed as a Crown colon)', lie accepted the p^overn- orsliip, witli a hope that, nortli of tlie Orange River, he inight carry ont liis own policy, check the encroachments of tlie Transvaal Republic, and extend the empire inter- nally. It has been the one mistake of Mr. Southey's life. Being without a force of any kind, he could only control the republics by the lielp of the native chiefs, and the coercion of the republics in any way became impossible from the moment that the control of the Cape Colony was passed over to its own people. Otherwise I have rarely met a man whom I have more admired. Mr. Southey is over seventy. lie drove me one day seventy miles in a cart with as wild a team as 1 ever sat behind, and he went to a party in the evening. I said to myself as I looked at him, " If some one came in and told yon that you were to be taken out and shot in five minutes, you would finish what you were about with perfect de- liberation, and not a muscle of your face would alter." Bloemfonteine^ December 6. — After a week at the Diamond Fields, I started again in the mail-cart for this place. The distance is but ninety miles. The roads, I was told, were good, and that we should do it in a single day. Alas ! between the Diamond Fields and Bloera- fonteine lies the Modder or Mud River, fitly so named, especially if it be in flood, as it was when we came up to it. Dense volumes of turbid filth were rollinsi: alonff at the level of the banks, and the passage seemed impos- sible. We spent the night at a shanty. In the morning the water did not seem to have fallen. '' It was stark," the driver said, but he had seen it worse, and we must go any way. He took us three miles higher up, to a place where he said the river was broader and not so deep. Passing through the fi'inge of bush we had the SOUTH AFRICAN JfOTES. 231 Modder again before iis, jierhaps 200 yards wide. The bank on which we stood was twenty-five feet above the river, with a steep track cut through it, down which the carts could go. The horses were taken out, as they .cannot be trusted to draw steadily in deep water, and they are once plunged in and struggled across half swini- ^jipng. A dozen heavy oxen then appeared on the op- posite side, led l)y Kafirs, who were to come over and ^Ifo charge of us. The stream was violent. The Jvufirs were up to their necks, and sometimes slipped and rolled under. The oxen and they reached us undrowned, however, and were " inspanned " to our cart. We put our boxes on the seats, and ourselves climbed to the top of them, and commended ourselves to Providence. The slide down the bank was the first and worst danger, for the pole was" crazy, and bent and twisted as the weight fell upon it. It held, however, and in we went, and with the driver swearino;, the Kafirs veiling:, and the water pouring through the cart within an inch of the seats, wc scrambled across somehow, and found brandy and hot coffee ready, prepared for us in case wc had met with a misadventure. Without further misfortuue avc arrived at Bloemfon- teine, a pretty town 4500 feet above the sea, clustered round the foot of the old British fort on which the Free State flag is now flying. It is now the Dutch cap- ital, the stronghold of Dutch politics and Dutch religion, tlie central object of the pride and hope of Dutch na- tionalitv. For some reason unknown to me, Bloemfonteine has been selected also as a special scene of missionary exer- tion by the extreme High Church party in England. There is a bishop here whose vestments would look gor- geous on a rrreck archimandrite, there is an Anglo-Cath 222 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. olic nnnnorv, in the neighborhood there is a college of Anglo-Catlioh'e iiioTiks, and attached to the nunnery an excellent girls' school, of which the Dutch themselves apeak in terms of high admiration. The day after my arrival was Sunday. I went to the cathedral, when the bishop preached. Being in a re- public, he had caught something of its spirit. He told us that we lived in days of democracy, when the principle of loyalty had no longer any earthly object to which it could attach itself. But every natural principle must have some object, and loyalty would therefore instinc- tively turn to Christ, and to the Bishop. I thought the anticipation rather sanguine. But the Bishop is an ac- complished and even superior person. I dined with him afterward, and heard much that interested me on the state of the country. He tells me that the price of every- thing is five times what it was before the diamond dis- covery. Living is three times as expensive as in Eng- land. The country is flooded with money ; but with butter at seven shillings a pound, and milk a shilling a pint — the present prices in Bloemfonteine market — no one is much the better for it. The English trade and speculate, but do not care to cultivate the soil. The Dutch grow what they require for their own households, but l)eing indifferent abont money they will not go out of their way to raise supplies for others ; and yet we are told that the Diamond Fields have saved the country. Politically, socially, and economically they appear to me to have been a mere nuisance. Friday^ Decemher 13. — We started yesterday in a cart Avith four horses for Trabancho. It is thirty-five miles off, the mountain beinfj- clearly visible from Bloem- fonteine. The drive was of the usual kind. It is hot summer, SOUTH AFRICAN N"OTES. 223 the rain has stopped for a while, and the mud in the roads is baked as liard as brick. We had again to cross the Modder River. The leaders bolted as we were going down into it, and we were swinging for a moment ^.- over the edge of a precipice. As we scrambled up the other side the wheelers jibbed ; we were saved from ;^;**ii-olling back into the water only by the depth of the clay in which the wheels were buried. These adventures pass •for nothing in South Africa. The Bishop's archdeacon ' "was upset in a river a week ago, and lost his cope and chasuble. At four o'clock we reached our destination, and drove to the Wesleyan Missionary Station, a long straggling ^louse with a chapel and school-room attached. Across a ravine stands the new Anglican monastery. Between the station"*and the monks there is little or no communica- tion. It was a lovely summer evening, and the mission- ary and his family being out, we strolled up to call on the King. In the South African towns generally the natives are relegated to the suburbs. At Trabancho the King and his court have the post of honor. The white traders and clergy are in the back premises. The city is composed of about 1500 beehive huts, thatched with reeds, each surrounded with a stone wall. Swarms of cliildren were playing in the sunshine, necklaces of beads being their chief or only covering, and the little stomachs blown out till they shone, with mealies or buckwheat porridge. A flagstaff denoted the royal residence. We made for it, and presently the eldest of the princes came out, a middle-aged thick-set miin, dressed in a Methodist parson's cast-off suit of clothes, followed by other chiefs in skins. We shook hands, and immediately after the old King himself came up, hand- somely dressed in leopard-skins, and walking slowly with 23-t SKETCHES ntOM J. A. I'UOUDE. a knob-stick. Chairs were placed for the King and tlie visitors. The Prime Minister .nnd tlie court jester sat on the ground on each side of his Majesty, and a circle of thirty or forty of the princij)al people squatted round, some of the youngsters wearing military caps. All were covered more or less, and had at least a blanket. The King asked after the Queen, w^hom he professed to hold in high respect, and then made some minute in- quiries into the Diamond Field business. Having satis- lied his curiosity, I asked him if he had heard of the Langabalele affair. He looked surprised, affected igno- rance, and appealed to his minister. The minister seemed to know no more than he. I discovered after- ward that they had been watching the whole business with the intensest interest. At that moment a party from Langabalele's tribe were in Trabancho, and were probably in the suite listening to the conversation. Two of the princes are Christians, and are anxious for their father's conversion. But he sticks to his heathen- ism. " My sons," he said, " want me to be baptized. I say to them. Christians here," pointing to the Wes- leyan Station, " and Christians there," pointing to the Anglican monks. " Christians there won't speak to Christians here. When one of tliem has converted the other, it will be time to come to me." Trabancho is maintained by the Free State, partly to show the world how good a Dutch state can be to the natives, and partly as a nursery for laborers ; but it was not a pretty sight to me. Food of course has to be sup- plied for so many people, and a certain quantity of ground is cultivated ; but the w^ork here as elsewhere is almost wholly done by the women. The men are not allowed to fight, and fighting being the only labor they understand, they are hopelessly idle. SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 225 When we returned to the station the missionary had come in. He entertained ns to the hest of his abihty. He gave us a supper, wliich, if phiin, was abundant. Hunger was the best of sauces, and his conversation was ---instructive if not amusing. To lodge us was tlie chief difficulty. There was one spare bed, and there was a •^}fibfa in the sitting-room. The Chief Justice and the Secretary of State took the bed and gave the sofa to me. /My mind misgave me. I remembered my experience ^with a sofa at the Yaal River. There were neither matches nor candles, so I prudently did not extinguish the lamp when I lay down. Five minutes were all that . I could bear. I bounded back into my clothes, turned tip the lamp again, and settled into a chair. What was I to do ? £)n the table lay a history of Methodism in seven volumes, a commentary on St. Paul in five vol- umes. Happily on a distant shelf, concealed modestly behind a curtain, I discovered a pile of novels, and read myself to sleep with " Modern Accomplishments." I have now learned as much as I am likely to learn, and may make my way back to Port Elizabeth. I am tired of knocking about. I have still 500 miles of Cape roads before me. Tlie rivers in the colony are reported to be in flood, and the bridges to be broken. Mr. H , an exceptionally agreeable English gentleman, Avlio is here, undertakes to drive me in his cart to Faure- smith, seventy-two miles of the way. There I shall fall in with " Cobb's coach" from Kimberley to Algoa Bay. 1 have tried to point out to people here how absurd it is for them to talk of South African independence. In the towns tiiey import everything which they consume. They import their flonr ; they import Australian incat ; they import milk, butter, tinned vegetables ; they ini- ]K>rt their furnitun;, their clnrlics, and even tind)er to 2ii6 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. floor and roof their houses. They manufacture nothing except wagons and harness. They are dependent on Europe for their commonest necessaries of life. Tliey produce, to buy tliese things, wool, diamonds, gold, cop- per, and ostrich feathers. But they cannot live on these. Three frigates could close their harbors, and they would be at once upon their knees. We saw a curious sight on the way : a locust swarm, a great brown cloud sweeping through the air, pursued by an army of locust-birds, large flycatchers, like swal- lows, but twice the size. These birds sweep up and down the swarm clipping off the wings of the locusts, which then fall like rain to the ground, when the birds alight and devour them at leisure. There are all the plagues of Egypt in this country except one. The flies blacken your breakfast table. The frogs have given me many a sleepless night. Lice there are none, but change the translation slightly, and you are provided to your skin's discontent. The locusts desolate the fields and gardens. The hail is so violent that in Katal and the Transvaal it will pierce holes through roofs of corrugated iron. Under a thunder-cloud there is the darkness of midnight. Red-water and horse-sickness are an equiva- lent for murrain, and if the rivers are not turned to blood, they come down after rain with the consistency of red soup. Colesberg, Decemher 19. — -Again in the Cape Colony. Cobb's coach hanging fire, and there being some doubt whether any coach would run again till the floods had gone down, I found a friend to drive me to the Orange River. At the passage I was told that I should find a ferry and a carriage which would take me on to Coles- berg. The Orange River, though it has still 800 miles to run, is even here an impressive stream — 600 feet SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 227 across, deep and rapid. The ferryman, a Dutchman, and tlierefore never in a hurry, was slowly transporting vast droves of oxen to the colonial border. Would he send me over ? He would. He would not. He did 'not know. "Why could I not go by tlie mail-cart ? It was then noon. He promised me an answer at three. ■^rsat down with a cigar and a drawing-book. Three hours passed. I again applied, and again found myself treated with phlegmatic indifference. The alternative 'before me was to sleep supperless on the sands. I said nothing, lighted another cigar, reseated myself, and sketched on. He approved of my composure, relented, 'and told me I should go. There M^as really not the : elightest difficulty. There was a carriage with a pair of horses on the other side, which was ready in a few minutes, and in two hours I was again in a British colo- nial town. The best hotel is full. 1 have to take up witli a place kept by a drunken lout from High Wick- ham, wliose wife, however, has sense and cleanliness. The l)ad specimens of colonists copy the Kafirs, and leave their wives to work while they drink and sleep. This poor woman slaves to keep things straight, but with imperfect success. The diamonds, she says, have turned everybody's head. There is more money, but living is ruinously expensive, and no one is the better for it. I passed a farm on my way here which was a model in its way. Tlie owner was an Englishman, and when an Englishman will work at agriculture, he shows the Dntchman how to do it. Colesberg itself lies in a rocky valley, more than 4000 feet above the sea, and is geologically the strangest place I ever saw. A huge flat-topped mountain rises over it, formed of alternate layers of stratified rock and iron- stone, the horizontal beds norfectly even, as if they had 228 SKETCKES PROM J. A. FKOUDE. never been disturbedj yet beds of igneous rock, many hundred feet thick, lying on tlie top of them. New Bedford, December 2i. — We are descending from the liighlands at last, and are again among the jessa- mines and the orange-trees. Five days ago I left Coles- berg with a cart and pair of horses to make my way down the colon V, and I have travelled at the rate of about fifty miles a day. The first evening after sunset I passed a handsome house belonging to a Dutchman. lie was sitting in the twilight outside his door with his wife, a middle-ao-ed laclv, but still handsome, and with beautiful eyes. 1 stopped to give the horses some water. We fell into conversation. I asked for fresh milk. They sent a boy to the stable with a tumbler to milk the cow for me. The}" invited me to stay there for the night, with a courtesy and repose of manner which no English lord and lady could have outdone. The Dutch having been long settled in the country have a dignity about them which contrasts favorably with Anglo-colonial smartness. I regretted to leave them, but it was moon- light, and we pushed on. The roads, which are bad enough by day, are horrible at night. They are mere wheeltracks, the ruts a foot or two deep, and the baked clay through whicli tliey are cut now as hard as stone. The road commissioners are the country farmers. I said to some one that I met on the way, that 1 supposed the Dutch rarely left their homes, and so did not care. I was told that if I could choose a road that led to a church I should always find it good. The farmers will go with their families fifty miles to a church, and never miss a church festival. The ministers are better paid than average state officials, and the Dutch meeting-houses are the handsomest ])nildino-s in South Africa. I saw, in passing through Cradock, a church which would have SOUTH AFRICAN NOTES. 220 been called fine anywhere in Europe. The Dutch farm- ers of the neighborhood had built it entirelv. The news about the floods is too true. Although it is summer there has been a heavy fall of snow on the mountains. It has melted suddenly. Violent rain falling at the same . time has burst simultaneously a number of ill-made , '"Reservoirs, and the Great Fish River has risen to forty ' feet above its natural level. The banks are wooded. /The torrent rushing over them tears out the trees by the ^ >oots, and the river rolls along, carrying with it enormous masses of floating timber. No imaginable bridge can stand such a strain, and it is a serious problem how the railways are by and by to be carried over these rivers. ' yA druggist at Cradock, whose son is at a Scotch univer- ' sity, kindly took charge of me as an ex-Lord Rector. He placed*" me in the hands of an experienced young Dutchman who knew the points where the Fish River could be crossed, and, after less serious difficulties than befell me at the Modder, I am now within 120 miles of Port Elizabeth. New Bedford is one of the prettiest towns which T have seen, nestled among densely wooded mountains, and luxurious with the wild variety of sub- tropical vegetation. Half a mile distant, among orange groves, and approached through vast oak avenues, lie the remains of the ruined house of Sir Andrew Stocken- strom, who was so honorably distinguished in the last generation by his endeavors to protect and raise the native tribes on the borders. The house was burned in one of the Kaflr wars, and has not been restored. The trees which were planted round it would be splendid even in an English park. All else is desolate. AVild jessamines creep among the broken casements. A dis- mounted cannon of the last century, with a Dutch in- scription, lies half-buried under leaves, and as a practi- 230 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. cal coimnent on tlic owiior's cliivalrou.s efforts to elevate tlie Kafir race by mere benevolence, the town to-daj is full of black creatures of both sexes and all ages, who have come in to drink, and are lying about in the sun idle and raasterless. Tunhridge, Decemher 26. — Only thirty miles left. Saw the sea to-day from the final ridge over which we crossed, and, after my long battering journey, I cried out like the vanguard of the ten thousand when they looked down on Trebizond. For the last two days we have been descending through picturesque ravines, studded with the African aloe. The open hills blaze with mesembryanthemums. The ivy-leaf geranium runs like a creeper up the stems of the trees on the river- sides, and pours its flowers in cascades over the branches. The banks of the streams are fringed with the fronds of giant ferns. This afternoon we took our last leap, 1200 feet, down into the plain, through winding glens, once the scenes of our most desperate battles with the Kafirs, now warm and glowing in the soft light of a summer sunset, fragrant with the million blossoms of the wild Cape jessamine, and with no more formidable animals concealed among the thickets than armies of gray baboons, which were playing on the grassy lawns that opened in the intervals of the forest. One \ery large fellow, with white whiskers and sharp twinkling eyes, stood half hidden in a bush to watch us as we passed. My negro driver, silent and solemn hitherto, burst into shouts of delight at the sight of his relation. 1 begged him to be silent, that I might get a nearer view, but he understood the matter better than I did. He addressed Jock, as he called him, in terms of affectionate greeting. Jock chattered, slipped round the bush, and waved his paw. I had just seen worse manners at the last hotel SOUTH AFRICAN KOTES. 231 which I had passed, where the innkeeper boasted to me that, when the late Governor, Sir Philip Wodehouse, called thei'e he had made Sir Philip know that he, in his own house, was as good a governor as the other. A free Africander was not going to humble himself before the .best Excellency that could be sent from England. ,."1 Tunbridge^ Sunday Evening, December 27. — The last 'day of rhy singular journey. I have travelled 1500 Biiles on the roughest roads that I have ever been jolted ^ o-ver, amid thunder-storms and hard living and nights without sleep. Had I been thirty, it would have been the most delightful of adventures. When one is near sixty, adventures cease to be exhilarating. When I was Reaving Maritzburg, plunging into the heart of an un- known wilderness, I thought of Faust descending to " the MotlTcrs" and Mephistopheles's " Ich bin neugierig wenn er wiederkommt." I am a stone lighter than when I was last at Port Ehza- beth. In a Potclieffstrom newspaper I saw myself de- scribed as " a lean gray old gentleman," but I am strong and well, and none the worse for what I have gone through. YIII. A DAY'S FISHING AT CHENEYS.* The village stands on a chalk-liill rising from the little River dies, four miles from Ricknianswoi-tli, on tlie road to Amersliam. The estate belongs to the Duke of Bed- ford, and is pervaded by an aspect of serene good man- ners, as if it was always Sunday. Ko vulgar noises dis- turb the general quiet. Cricket may be played there, and b.owls and such games as propriety allows ; but the oldest inhabitant can never have heard an oath spoken aloud, or seen a drunken man. Dirt and poverty are equally unknown. The houses, large and small, are solid and substantial, built of red brick, with high chimneys and pointed gables, and well trimmed gardens before the doors. A Gothic fountain stands in the middle of the village green, under a cluster of tall elms, where pict- uresque, neatly dressed girls go for the purest water. Beyond the green a road runs, on one side of which stands the church and the parsonage, on the other the remains of the once spacious manor house, which was built by the first Earl of Bedford, on the site of an old castle of the Plantagenet kings. One wing of the manor house only survives, but so well constructed, and of material so admirable, that it looks as if it had been com- * Tliis sketch contains the descriptive part of the Author's Eesay on " Cheneys and the House of Russell." A day's fishing at CHENLiYS. 233 pleted yesterday. In a Held under the window is an oak which tradition says was planted by Queen Bess. More probably it is as old as the Conquest. The entire spot, church, mansion, cottages, and people, form a piece of ancient England artificially preserved from the intrusion ctf 'modern ways. No land is let on building lease in Gifeneys to be disfigured by contractors' villas. No flar- ing shops, which such villas bring behind them, make th6 street hideous. A single miscellaneous store supplies the" simple wants of the few inhabitants — the bars of soap, the bunches of dip candles, the tobacco in ounce packets, the tea, cofliee, and sugar, the balls of twine, the strips of calico. Even the bull's-eyes and ginger- bread for the children are not unpermitted, if they are honestly made and warranted not to be poisonous. So light is the business that the tidy woman who presides at the counter combines with it the duties of the post- office, which again are of the simplest kind. All is old-fash- ioned, grave, and respectable. No signs are to be found of competition, of the march of intellect, of emancipa- tion, of the divine right of each man and woman to do what is good in their own eyes — of the blessed liberty which the House of Russell has been so busy in setting forward. The inhabitants f)f Cheneys live under au- thority. The voice of the Russells has been the voice of the emancipator — the hand has been the hand of the ruling noljle. The Manor House contains nothing of mucli interest. In itself, though a fragment, it is a fine specimen of the mason work of the Tudor times, and if not pulled down will be standing strong as ever when the new London squares are turned to dust heaps. With its high-pitch- ed roofs and its clusters of curiously twisted chimneys it has served as a model for the architecture of the village. ^3-± SKETCHES FKOM J. A. FllOUDE, the smallest cottages looking as if tliey bad grown from seeds which had been dropped by the central mansion. All this is pretty enough, but the attraction of the place t© a stranger is the church and what it contains. I had visited it before more than once, but I wished to inspect the monuments more closely. I ran dowm from London, one evening in June, to the village inn, and in the morning, soon after sunrise, when 1 was in less dan- ger of having the officious assistance thrust upon me of clerk or sexton, I sauntered over to see if 1 could enter. The keys were kept at an adjoining cottage. The busy matron was already up and at her work. When I told her that I had special permission, she unlocked the church door and left me to myself. Within, as without, all was order. No churchwardens, it was plain enough, had ever been allowed to work their will at Cheneys. Nay, the unchallenged loyalty of the Bedford family to constitutional liberty must have saved the church from the visits of the Cominissi oners of the Long Parliament. On the walls are old Catholic brasses, one representing a parish priest of the place with the date of 1512, and a scroll praying for mercy on his soul. Strange to think that this man had said mass in the very place where I was standing, and that the memory of him had been pre- served by the Russells, till the wheel had come round again and a Catholic hierarchy had been again established in England, with its Cardinals and Archbishops and Bishops. Will mass be ever said in Cheneys again ? — not the sham mass of the Ritualists, but the real thing ? Who that looks on England now can say that it will not ? And four miles off is Amersham, where John Knox used to preach, and Queen Mary's inquisitors gathered their batches of heretics for Smithfield. On the pavement against the wall lies the stone figure of an old knight.. A day's FISHINTt at CHE]SrEYS. 235 finislied only from the waist upward. The knight is in liis armor, his wife rests at liis side ; the hands of both of them reverently folded. Opening from the church on the north side, but private, and not used for service, is the Russell Chapel. Below is the vault where the remains lie of most of the family who have borne the naja^e for three centuries and a half. ' '"' * " * • •5t -X- * * It -is worth while to spend a day at Cheneys, if only for Ltiie breakfast — breakfast on fresh pink trout from the dies, fresh eggs, fresh yellow butter, cream unde- tiled by chalk, and home-made bread untouched with alum. The Russells have been the apostles of progress, T)nt there is no progress in their own dominion. The ducal warranty is on everything which is consumed licre. - The sun was shining an hour ago. It is now raining ; it rained all yesterday ; the clouds are coming up from the south and the wind is soft as oil. The day is still before us, and it is a day made for trout fishing. The chapel is not the only attraction at Cheneys. Xo river in England holds finer trout, nor trout more willing to be caught. Why fish will rise in one stream and not in another is a problem which we must wait to understand, as Bret Ilarte says, in " another and a better world." The Ches at any rate is one of the favored waters. Great, too, is the Duke of Bedford — great in the mill- ions he has spent on his tenants' cottages — great in the remission of his rents in the years when the seasons are unpropitious — great in the administration of his enor. mou8 property ; but greater than all in the management of his fishing, for if he gives you leave to fish there, you liave the stream for the day to yourself. You are in no danger of seeing your favorite pool already flogged by 2'iG SKETCHES FROM .T. A. FROUDE. another sportsman, or of finding rows of iignres before jou fringing tlie river bank, waving their long wands in the air, each followed by his boj with basket and generally useless landing net. " Competition" and " the greatest happiness of the greatest number" are not heard of in this antique domain. A day's fishing at Cheneys means a day by the best water in England in the fisherman's paradise of solitude. Such a day's privilege had been extended to me if I cared to avail myself of it, when I was coming down to see the chapel, and thougli my sporting days were over, and gun and rod had long lain undisturbed in their boxes, yet neither the art of fly-fishing, nor the enjoyment of it when once acquired and tasted, will leave us except with life. The hand does not forget its cunning, and op- portunity begets the inclination to use it. I had brought my fishing case along with me. Shall I stay at the inn over the day and try what can be done ? The rain and the prospect of another such breakfast decide it between them. The water-keeper is at the window — best of keepers — for he will accept a sandwich perhaps for lunch- eon, a pull from your flask, and a cigar out of your case, but other fee on no condition. The rain, he tells me, has raised the water, and the large fish are on the move, the May-fly has been down for two days. They were feeding on it last evening. If the sky clears they will take well in the afternoon ; but the fly will not show till the rain stops. Tlie Cheneys flshing is divided in the middle by a mill. Below the mill the trout are in greatest numbers, but comparatively small ; above them is a long, still deep pool where the huge monsters lie, and in common weather never stir till twilight. The keeper and I re- member a summer evening some years ago, when at A day's FISHIXG at CHENEYS. 237 iiiglitfall, after a burning day, the glittering surface of the water was dimpled with rings, and a fly thrown into the middle of these circles was answered more than once by a rush and scream of the reel ; and a struggle which ihe darkness made more exciting. You may as well fish on the high road as in the mill-pool when the sun is above the horizon, and even at night you will rarely suc- ceed there ; but at the beginning of the May-fly season tkfese large fish sometimes run up to the rapid stream at tlie pool head to feed. This the keeper decides shall be tried if the fly conies down. For the morning he will leave me to myself. Does the reader care to hear of a day's fishing in a cliklk stream fifteen miles from London ? As music to the deaf, as poetry to the political economist, as a mountain landscape to the London cockney, so is chalk stream trout fishing to those M'hu never felt their fingers tingle as the line whistles through the rings. For them I write uo further ; let them leave the page uncut and turn on to the next article. Breakfast over, I start for the lower water. I have my boy with me, home for the holidays. lie carries the lauding net, and we splash through the rain to the mill. The river runs for a quarter of a mile down under hang- ing bushes. As with other accomplishments when once learned, eye and hand do the work in fly-fishing without reference to the mind for orders. The eye tells the hand how distant the bushes are, how near the casting line ap- proaches them. If a gust of wind twists it into a heap, or sweeps it toward a dangerous bough, the wrist does something on the inslant which sends the fly straight and unhanned into the water. Practice gives our different organs functions like the instinct of animals, who do wliat their liabits require, yet know not what they do. 238 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. The small fish take freely — some go back into the water, the few in good condition into the basket, which, after a field or two, becomes perceptibly heavier. The governor, a small humble bee, used to be a good fly at Cheneys, and so did the black alder. Neither of them is of any use to-day. The season has been cold and late. The March brown answers best, with the never-failing red-spinner. After running rapidly through two or three meadows, the river opens into a broad smooth shal- low, where the trout are larger, and the water being ex- tremely clear, are specially diflicult to catch. In such a place as this, it is useless to throw your fly at random upon the stream. You must watch for a fish which is rising, and you must fish for him till you either catch him or disturb him. It is not enough to go below him and throw upward, for though he lies with his head up- stream, his projecting eye looks back over his shoulders. You must hide behind a bunch of rushes. You must crawl along the grass with one arm only raised. If the sun is shining and the shadow of your rod glances over the gravel, you may get up and walk away. No fish within sight will stir then to the daintiest cast. I see a fish close to the bank on the opposite side, lazi- ly lifting his head as a fly floats past him. It is a long throw, but the wind is fair and he is worth an effort- - once, twice, three times I fail to reach him. The fourth I land the fly on the far bank, and draw it gently off upon his very nose. lie swirls in the M-ater like a salm- on as he sweeps round to seize it. There is a splash — a sharp jerk, telling unmistakably that something has given way. A large fish may break you honestly in weeds or round a rock or stump, and only fate is to blame, but to let yourself be broken on the first strike is unpardonable. What can have happened ? Alas, the A day's FISHINTt at CHENEYS. 239 red-spiimer has snapped in two at the turn — a new fly bought last week at 's, whose boast it has been that no fly of his was ever known to break or bend. One grumbles on these occasions, for it is always the best fish which one loses ; and as imagination is free, one may call him what weight one pleases. The damage is spoji repaired. The basket fills fast as trout follows trout. It still rains, and I begin to think that 1 have ha,d enough of it. I have promised to be at the mill at mid'-day, and then we shall see. Evidently the sky means mischief. Black thunder- clouds pile up to windward, and heavy drops continue falling. But there is a break in the south as I ^valk baok by the bank — a gleam of sunshine spans the valley with a rainbow, and an actual May-fly or two sails by, which I see greedily swallowed. The keeper is waiting ; he looks scornfully into my basket. Fish — did I call these herrings fish ? I must try the upper water at all events. The large trout were feeding, but the fly was not yet properly on — we can have our luncheon first. How pleasant is luncheon on mountain-side or river's bank, wlien you fling yourself down on fern or heather after your morning's work, and no daintiest entree had ever such flavor as your sandwiches, and no champagne was ever so exquisite as the fresh stream water just tem- pered from your whiskey flask. Then follows the smoke, when the keeper fills his pipe at your bag, and old ad- ventures are talked over, and the conversation wanders on through anecdotes and experiences, till, as you listen to the shrewd sense and kindly feeling of your compnn- ion, you become aware that the steep difference which you had imagined to be created by education and habits of life had no existence save in your own conceit. Fort- une is less unjust than she seems, and true hearts and 240 SKETCHES FROM J. A, FROUDE. clear-judging liealtlij minds are bred as easily in the cot- tage as the palace. But time runs on, and I must hasten to the end of my storj. The short respite from the wet is over. Down falls the rain again — rain not to be measured by inches, but by feet ; rain such as lias rarely been seen in Eng- land before this " sestas mirabilis" of 1879. It looks liopeless, but the distance by the road to the top of the water is not great. We complain if we are caught in a shower ; we splash along in a deluge, in boots and water- l^roof, as composedly as if we wei-e seals or otters. The river is rising, and, as seldom happens with a chalk stream, it is growing discolored. Every lane is running with a brown stream, which finds its way at last into the main channel. The highest point is soon reached. The first hundred yards are shallow, and to keep the cattle from straying a high iron railing runs along the bank. Well I knew that iron railing. You must stand on the lower bar to fish over it. If you hook a trout you must play him from that uneasy perch in a rapid current among weeds and stones, and your attendant must use his landing-net through the bars. Generally it is the liveliest spot in the river, but nothing can be done there to-day. There is a ford immediately above, into which the thick road-water is pouring, and the fish cannot see the fly. Shall we give it up ? Not yet. Farther down the mud settles a little, and by this time even the road has been washed clean, and less dirt comes off it. The flood stirs the trout into life and hunger, and their eyes, accustomed to the transparency of the chalk water, do not see you so quickly. Below the shallow there is a pool made by a small weir, over which the flood is now rushing ; on one side there is an open hatchway, with the stream pouring A day's fishing at CHENEYS. 241 through. The banks are bushy, and over the deepest part of the pool the stem of a hirge ash projects into the river. Yesterday, when the water was lower, the keeper saw a four-pounder lying under that stem. Between the weir and tlie trees it is an awkward spot, 1)ut difficulty is the charm of fly-fishing. The dangerous drop fly must be taken off ; a drop fly is only fit for open waterj where there is neither weed nor stump. Tlie March browni is sent skimming at the tail of the c^ing-line, to be dropped, if possible, just above the ash, and to be carried under it by the stream. It has been caught in a root, so it seems ; or it is foul some- where. Surely no fish ever gave so dead a pull. No ; it is no root. The line shoots under the bank. There is a broad flash of white just below the surface, a moment's struggle, th(r-rod springs straight, and the line comes back unbroken. The March brown is still floating at the end of it. It was a big fish, perhaps the keeper's very big one ; he must have been lightly hooked, and have rubbed the fly out of his mouth. But let us look closer. The red-spinner had played false in the mornino; ; niav not something like it have befallen the March brown ? Something like it, indeed. The hook has straightened out as if, instead of steel, it had been made of copper. A pretty business ! I try another, and another, with the same result. The heavy trout take them, and one bends and the next breaks. Oh ! Well for Charles Kingsley that he was gone l>efore he heard <»f a treason which would have broken his trust in man. You, in whose praise I have heard him so often ehxpicnt I You who never dealt in shoddy goods. You wlio were faithful if all else were faithless, and redeemed the credit of English tradesmen ! You had not tlien l)een in tliu school of progress ann mvhero," that Reineke 278 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. would have done. No appetite makes a slave of him — no faculty refuses obedience to his will. His entire natm-e is under perfect organic control to the one su- preme authority. And the one object for which he lives, and for which, let his lot have been cast in what- ever century it might, he would always have lived, is to rise, to thrive, to prosper, and become great. The world as he found it said to him — Prey upon us ; we are your oyster, let your wit open us. If you will only do it cleverly — if you will take care that we shall not close upon your fingers in the process, you may devour us at your pleasure, and we shall feel ourselves highly honored. Can w^e wonder at a fox of Reineke's abilities taking such a world at its word ? And let it not be supposed that society in this earth of ours is ever so viciously put together, is ever so totally without organic life, that a rogue, unredeemed by any merit, can prosper in it. There is no strength in rotten- ness ; and when it comes to that, society dies and falls in j)ieces. Success, as it is called, even worldly success, is impossible, without some exercise of what is called moral virtue, without some portion of it, infinitesimally small, perhaps, but still some. Courage, for instance, steady self-confidence, self-trust, self-reliance — that only basis and foundation-stone on which a strong character can rear itself — do we not see this in Reineke ? While he lives, he lives for himself ; but if he comes to dying, he can die like his l)etters ; and his wit is not of that effervescent sort which will fly away at the sight of death and leave him panic-stricken. It is true there is a meaning to that word courage, which was perhaps not to be found in the dictionary in which Reineke studied. " I hope I am afraid of nothing, Trim," said my Uncle Toby, " except doing a wrong thing." With REYKARD THE FOX. 279 Reineke there was no " except." His digestive powers shrank from no action, good or bad, which would serve his turn. Yet it required no shght measure of courage to treat his fellow-creatures with the steady disrespect with whicli Reineke treats them. To walk alono; among them, regardless of any interest but his own ; out .•"fof mere wantonness to liook them up like so many cock- ' chafers, and spin tliem for his pleasure ; not like ,-J)o"iitian, with an imperial army to hold them down ^ during the operation, but with no other assistance but . his own little body and large %vit ; it was something to venture upon. And a world which would submit to be so treated, what could he do but despise ? ^ To tlie animals utterly below ourselves, external to our own species, we hold ourselves bound by no law. We say to"*them, "wos non volns, without any uneasy mis- givings. We rob the bees of their honey, the cattle of their lives, tlie horse and the ass of their liberty. We kill the wild animals that they may not interfere with our pleasures ; and acknowledge ourselves bound to them by no terms except what are dictated by our own convenience. And why should Reineke have acknowl- edged an obligation any more than we, to creatures so utterly below himself ? He was so clever, as our friend said, that he liad a right. That he could treat them so, Mr. Carlyle would say, proves that he had a right. But it is a mistake to say he is without a conscience. No bold creature is ever totallv without one. Even lago shows some sort of conscience. Respecting nothing else in heaven or earth, he respects and even reverences his own intellect. After one of those sweet interviews with Roderigo, his, wliat we must call conscience, takes him to account for his company ; and he pleads to it in his own justification — 280 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. For I mine own gained knowledge should 'profane Were I to waste myself with such a snipe But for my sport and profit. ReineTce, if we take the mass of liis misdeeds, preyed chiefly, like our own Eobin Hood, on rogues who were greater rogues than himself. If Bruin chose to steal Rusteviel's honey, if Hintze trespassed in the priest's granary, they were but taken in their own evil-doings. And what is Isegrim, the worst of Reineke's victims, but a great heavy, stupid, lawless brute ? — fair type, we will suppose, of not a few Front-de-Boeufs and other so- called nobles of the poet's era, whose will to do mis- chief was happily limited by their obtuseness. We re- member that French baron — Gilbert de Retz, we believe, was his name — who, like Isegrim, had studied at the universities, and passed for learned, whose after-dinner pastime for many years, as it proved at last, was to cut children's throats for the pleasure of watching them die. We may well feel gratitude that a Reineke was provided to be the scourge of such monsters as these ; and we have a thorough pure, exuberant satisfaction in seeing the intellect in that little weak body triumph over them and trample them down. This, indeed, this victory of intellect over brute force, is one great secret of our pleasure in the poem, and goes far, in the Carlyle direction, to satisfy us that, at any rate, it is not given to mere base physical strength to win in the battle of life, even in times when physical strength is apparently the only recognized power. We are insensibly falling from our self-assumed judicial office into that of advocacy ; and sliding into what may be plausibly urged, rather than standing fast on what we can surely affirm. Y(!t there are cases when it is fitting for the judge to become the advocate of an undefended REYNARD THE FOX. 381 prisoner ; and advocacy is only plausible when a few words of truth are mixed with what we say, like the few drops of wine which color and faintly flavor the large draught of water. Such few grains or drops, whatever they may be, we must leave to the kindness of Reynard's friends to distil for him, while we continue a little -longer in the same strain. After all, it may be said, what is it in man's nature which is really admirable ? It is idle for us to waste our ^ labor in passing Reineke through the moral crucible un- less we shall recognize the results M'hen we obtain them ; and in these moral sciences our analytical tests can only be obtained by a study of our own internal experience. If we desire to know what we admire in Reineke, we must look for what we admire in ourselves. And what is that ? Is- it what on Sundays, and on set occasions, and when we are mounted on our moral stilts, we are pleased to call goodness, probity, obedience, humility ? Is it ? Is it really ? Is it not rather the face and form which nature made — the strength which is ours, we know not how — our talents, our rank, our possessions ? It appears to us that we most value in ourselves and most admire in our neighbor, not acquisitions, but gifts. A man does not praise himself for being good. If he praise himself he is not good. The lirst condition of goodness is forgetfulness of self ; and where self has entered, under however plausible a form, the health is but skin-deep, and underneath there is corruption. And so through everything ; wc value, we are vain of, proud of, or whatever you please to call it, not what M'e have done for ourselves, but what has been done for us — what has been given to us by the up})er powers. "We look up to high-born men, to wealthy men, to fortunate men, to clever men. Is it not so ? AVhom do we choose for the 282 SKETCHEvS FKOM J. A. FROUDE. coinitj member, the magistrate, the officer, the minister ? Tlie good man we leave to the humble en- joyment of his goodness, and we look out for the able, or the wealthy. And again of the wealthy, as if on every side to witness to the same universal law, the man who with no labor of his own has inherited a fortune, ranks higher in the world's esteem than his father who made it. We take rank by descent. Such of us as have the longest pedigree, and are therefore the farthest re- moved from the first who made the fortune and founded the family, we are the noblest. The nearer to the foun- tain the fouler the stream ; and that first ancestor, who has soiled his fingers by labor, is no better than a parvenu. And as it is with what we value, so it is with what we blame. It is an old story, that there is no one who would not in his heart prefer being a knave to being a fool ; and when we fail in a piece of attempted roguery, as Coleridge has wisely observed, though reasoning un- wisely from it, we lay the blame, not on our own moral nature, for which we are responsible, but on our intel- lectual, for which we are not responsible. We do not say what knaves, we say what fools, we have been ; per- plexing Coleridge, who regards it as a phenomenon of some deep moral disorder ; whereas it is but one more evidence of the universal fact that gifts are the true and proper object of appreciation ; and as we admire men for possessing gifts, so we blame them for their absence. The noble man is the gifted man ; the ignoble is the ungifted ; and therefore we have only to state a simple law in siinple language to have a full solution of the enigma of Eeineke. He has gifts enough ; of that, at least, there can be no doubt ; and if he lacks the gift to use them in the way which we call good, at least he uses them successfully. His victims are less gifted than he, REYKARD THE FOX. 283 and therefore less noble ; and therefore he has a right to use them as lie pleases. And, after all, what are these victims ? Among the heaviest charges which were urged against him was the killing and eating of that wretched Scharfenebbe — . .-;Sharpbeak — the crow's wife. It is well that there are ' two sides to every story. A poor weary fox, it seemed, v.was not to l)e allowed to enjoy a quiet sleep in the sun- ^ tshine but what an unclean carrion bird must come down and take a peck at him. We can feel no sympathy with the outcries of the crow husband over the fate of the unfortunate Sliarpbeak. Wofully, he says, he flew over ' the place where, a few moments before, in tJie glory of glossy plumage, a loving wife sat croaking out her pas- sion for him, and found nothing — nothing but a little blood and a few torn feathers — all else clean gone and utterly abolished. AVell, and if it was so, it was a blank prospect for him, but the earth was well rid of her ; and for herself, it was a higher fate to be assimilated into the body of Reineke than to remain in a miserable indi- viduality to be a layer of carrion crow's eggs. And then for Bellyn, and for Bruin, and for Ilintze, and the rest, who would needs be meddling with what was no concern of theirs — what is there in them to chal- lenge either regret or pity ? They made love to their occupation. 'Tis dangerous when the baser nature falls Between the pass and fell incensed points Of micfhty opposites : They lie not near our conscience. Ah ! if they were all. But there is one misdeed, one which outweighs all others whatsoever — a crime which it is useless to palliate, let our other friend say what he ii84 SKETCHES FROM J. A. FROUDE. pleased ; and Reineke himself felt it so. It sat heavy, for Jiim, on his soul, and alone of all the actions of his life we are certain that he wished it undone — the death and eating of that poor foolish Lampe, the hare. It was a paltry revenge in Reineke. Lampe had told tales of him ; he had complained that Reineke, under pretence of teaching him his Catechism, had seized him and tried to murder him ; and though he provoked his fate by thrusting himself, after such a warning, into the jaws of Malepartus, Reineke betrays an uneasiness about it in confession ; and, unlike himself, feels it necessary to make some sort of an excuse. Grimbart, the badger, Reineke's father confessor, had been obliged to speak severely of the seriousness of the offence. " You see," Reineke answers : To help oneself out through the world is a queer sort of business : one cannot Keep, you know, quite altogether as pure as one can in the clois- ter. When we are handling honey we now and then lick at our fingers. Lampe sorely provoked me ; he frisked about this way and that way, Up and down, under my eyes, and he looked so fat and so jolly. Really I could not resist it. I entirely forgot how I loved him. And then he was so stupid. But even this acknowledgment does not satisfy Reineke. His mind is evidently softened, and it was on that occasion that he poured out his pathetic lamenta- tion over the sad condition of the world — so fluent, so musical, so touching, that Grimbart listened with wide eyes, unable, till it had run to tlie length of a sermon, to collect himself. It is true that at last his office as ghostly father obliged him to put in a slight de- murrer : REYN"ARD THE FOX. 2S?} Uncle, the badger replied, why, these are the sins of your neigh- bors ; Yours, I should think, were sufficient, and rather more now to the purpose. ..- But he sighs to think what a bishop Reineke would have made. '> And now, for the present, farewell to Reineke Fuchs, and to the song in which his glory is enshrined, the Welt-Bibel — Bible of this world — as Goethe called it, -the most exquisite moral satire, as we will call it, which has ever been composed. It is not addressed to a passing- mode of folly or of profligacy, but it touches the peren- nial nature of mankind, laying bare our own sympathies, aAd tastes, and weaknesses, with as keen and true an edge as when the living world of the old Swabian poet winced under its earliest utterance. Humorous in the liigh pure sense, every laugh which it gives may liave its echo in a sigh, or may ghde into it as excitement subsides into thought ; and yet, for those who do not care to find matter there either for thought or sadness, may remain innocently as a laugh. Too strong for railing, too kindly and loving for the bitterness of irony, the poem is, as the world itself, a book where each man will find what his nature enables him to see, which gives us back each our own image, and teaches us each the lesson which each of us desires to learn. INDEX. A. Abonotichu*. 112 ; becomes a lioly city, 136. iEscuLAPius reappears, 115 ; as oracle and deity, 117 ; speaks through the serpent. 122. Africa, South, A trip to, 183. Alexandei! of Aboiiotichus, 107 ; stud- ies medicine and magic, 109 ; meets Cocconas, 109 ; re-olves on relij^ious fraud, 110; dismisses bis companion, 119 ; reappears in his native place, 113; work.s miracles, 11.5 ; isdiflferent- ly regarded, 119 ; consulted by Roman society, 12:^ ; establishes a temple, 126 ; invents his miraculous birth, 127 . commits dangerous mistakes, 128 : is finally triumphant, 133. Animajl creation. The, sacrificed for man, 59. " Answek," a poem, 255. Apollonius of Tyana, 103 : at the Roman court, 104 ; as a healer and a magician, lii5. Apprenticeship iu trades in Old Eng- land, 170. Arbndal, a modern town, 97. Aurelius, Marcus, 128. Asia Minor, the home of magicians, 102. Asceticism, Froude's philosophy of, 14. B. Bergen, 67 ; its flsh-trade, 6S ; univer- sal thrift, 68 ; model museum, 69 ; people, 70. Bishop, A Xorvv'egian, 82. Bloemfonteine, 220. BoLEYN, Anne, at the Tower, 17:j ; iu the procession, 176 ; at Westminster Hall, 178 ; crowned by Cranmer, 179. BuNYAN, John, his end, 181 ; last words, 182 ; his temperament, 183 ; his toler- ance, 185 ; his preaching, 186. Burke, Father. 30. Business principles, common but false, 52. " C.E8AR, a sketch," 19. Cagliostro, a, of the second century, 103. Cape Town, 193 ; its surroundings, 194. Capitat. and labor, 156 ; their gaina and losses, 172. Carlyle, Thomas, Reminiscences of, 19: and his wife. 246 ; reveals himself to Miss Welsh, 250 ; his life on Dum- friesshire moors, 251 ; temper, 252 ; views of men's prospects, 254 ; treat- ment of his wife, 2.55. Change, a universal law, 136. Cheneys, 232 ; the old church at, 2;i4. Ches, The, 235 ; a day's fishing in, 237. Christian character, A plea for, 22. Christian Church, The, 27 ; against fraud, 121. Christiania, its attractions, 98. Christiansund, 90 ; its strange cot- tages, 91. Churches, Dutch, in South Africa, 228. Circumstances. Adverse, useful to strong men, 40; blamed for failure, 51 ; the causes of virtue and vii e. 262. Civilization, what is it ? 82 ; primitive, 228. Clement, Pope, on Cellini's murderB, 274. CoccoNAS, the fortune-t' Her, 109. Conservatism in Norway, 97. Criticism, Unworthy, 30 ; Irish, 31. " Cui Bono ?" a poem, 254. D. Daviken, 82. Diamond Fields, 215; their discovery, 218 : method of working them, 218; not a benefl', 222. Drontheim, how to reach it, 71 ; the home of the Norse kings, 86 ; its ca thedral, 87. Durban in Natal, 199. Dutch hospitality, 228. E. East London, 197. Ed L'c AT ION of clergy and laity iu O'.d England, 165. "Elective Affinities," opinion of, 88. Electivb franchise, how controlled, 196. Engineering work in South .\fnra. 19T. INDEX. 387 EngLwAND In the sixteenth century, 136 ; population of, 138 ; manufact- ures in, 140 ; land - tenure of, 144 ; sumptuary laws in, 148 ; condition of laborers iu, 152 ; wages of, 155 ; so- cial habits of, 144 ; education in, 165. Epicurus and his sect, lii ; aflEord no moral light, 134. Essays of the author left out, 5. F. 'Feudal system, Eegulations of the, 150. 'Fishing, at Nord Gulen, 76; at the Grea' Fall, 7" ; at StrOmen, 80 : iu the Romsdal Fjord, 85 ; Trondlijem 1-. Tjord, 89; at Oddi-, 96; at Cheneys, 232. Fjords same as friths. 63 ; their scen- ery, 64 ; how formed, 64 ; their depth, 65 ; difticulty of navigaiing, 66. Flok.*, Tho, of Norway, 79. Fording an African river, 221. Frkedoji of the will, 21. Freeman, Edward A., 7 ; his charges against the author, 30. Fboude, James Autlumy, birthplace ' and parentage, 5; enters college, 5 ; graduates and becomes a fellow, 6 ; ordained a deacon, 6 ; eivt-s up fel- lowship and orders, 6; adopts a liter- ary career, 7 ; controversy with Mr. Edward A. Freeman, 7; his es-ay on John Henry Kewnian, 8 ; the author's boyhood, 10 ; experience with Evan- gelical Chiisiiaus, 12; his literary workf, Vi ; stndies English history, 16; pul>li.-his twelve volumes, 16; treatmeni of the Irish, IS; publishes essays, 1!); edits Carlvle's biography, 19; his pliilDsophical opinion-, 20; religious faith, 2.'J; theological opin- ions, 24 ; as an historical writer, 26 ; his agnosticism, 29; his tiavels. 29 ; his conlroversies, 30; his style, 32. Froude, Richard Hurrell, 6; the au- thor's alleged injustice to, 31. G. Gpiranger Fjord, its sublime scenery, 92. Glacial action, 65 ; at Odde, 94. Gltcon, Incarnation of, 115. Government, I'arenlal, 105. n. Hay-making in ^Torivay, 92. Uenky VIII. in a new light, 17 ; nurses niaunfacturcs, 140. IlKin-CiiuBcn missions in South Africa, 221. Honesty enforced in Old England, 168. Hospitality, Social, in Old En^'l.ind, KM. Human nature, how developed, .56; how influenced, 263. Hotchingson, Hely, his prophetic question, 260. I. Incomes of the old English nobility, 162 ; of country gentlemen, 163. Ireland, The English in, 17; cost of reconquest, 256 ; restrictions upon her manufactures and commerce, 257. Irish attacks upon the author, 31. Irving, Edward, 246. Judgment scene, A, 58. K. Kafirs, The, 201 ; treatment of their women, 2o2 ; their musical perform- ances, 202 ; their injudicious treat- ment by the English, 202 ; their hou- ee^ty, 204 ; their clothing, 206. KlJIBERLT, 217. Land, Tenure of, 143. Leokof, 209. LiPE-PlCTURE, 45. Lightning conductor. A, 212. LuciAN, lOG ; his Bketchof Alexander of Abonotichus, 107; his opinion of ancient philosopher.^, 12o ; attempt.^ to expose Alexander, 130; is finally imposed upon, 132; lands at Bithynia, 133 ; fails to move the governor, 13-3. M. Macaulay's alleged injustice, 16; his singular theory, 202. Macuiaveli.i, 262. M\NDAL, its historic associations, 97. MANurACTURKs in Old England nursed by statute, 140 ; spreading over the country, 143; in South Africa, want- ing, 226. Mahitzhurg, 204 Mii.iTAitY i)rincip!e in land tenure, 144. Money, value of, 155. MoKALiTV, essential to success, 278. Mormon fraud, Type of, 112. N. Natal, 109; its climate, 201; i)opula- tion, 201 ; caiihcs ol niisgoverninent, 203; rcmcdv i- r ii'iprovement. 2i 8. " Ne.>ik.sis of Failh The," II ; its plot 15 ; ilB twolo.'d reception 16. New Bedford. 228. 288 INDEX. Newman, John Henry, fi ; liighiftorian, 8. NoRD Fjord, 78 NoRU Giilen, a primitive Norwegian valley, 73. NousE history made intelligible, 72. Norsemen, The, their knowledge and our own, 101. North Sea, The, stormy, 97. Norway Fjords, The, 6:J-t01. Norway, A trip to, 62 ; routes of travel, 63 ; from the Solent to Udsire, 66 ; on the ocean, 67 ; at Bergen. 68 ; its religion, 69 ; Giilen, 73 ; primitive life in, 7.5 ; its etnrdy population, 76 ; to the Nord Fjord, 78 ; at the Stro- men, 80 ; to Daviken, 82 ; in the Roms- dal Fjord, 83 ; to Trondhjem, 86 : ex- ploring the fjord, 87 ; to Christian- sund, 90 ; at the Geiranger Fjord. 92 ; at the Odde Fjord. 93 : to Christiania, 96; home to Cowes, 101. O. Odde Fjord, 92 ; its wild and grand as- pect!=, 04. Othello the Moor, 263. " Oxford Counter-reformation, The," 10 ; expresses the author's bent of thinking, 2.5. Oxford Movement, The, 6 ; its two groups, 9. Political economy in the eighteenth century, 256. Population, Increase of, 139. Port Elizabeth, 196. potscheffstrom, 213. Pretoria, 213. Produce of the land in Old England, 1.51. Production called for, 50. l^ROTESTANTisM, its basis, 23. Provisions, Prices of, in Old England, 152. Pythagoreans, The, 120. E Railway station. \ Kidini; at a, 41. Rbinekb Fuchs, its meaning, 267. Religion the outgrowth of conscience, 135 ; of Homer and the Greek dra- matists, 191 ; of the Boers, 192. Reynard the fox, 262. RoLLo's ancestral home, 83. Romanism, its dangers, 26; eulogy of, 27. R')Msdal Fjord, 83 ; its geological in- terest, 84. Rum and brandy, as civilizers, 189. ItuTu.iAN consults the oracle, 124 ; inairies the daughter of Selene, 125. S. Schoolmaster's salary, A Norwegian, 82. Science and religion. 22. Sectarianism exemplified and re- buked, 224. Seneca as a man and philosopher, 88. Serpent, The. as a Fymbol, 113. Severian consults the oracle, 122. Sheep-farming in Old England re- stricted, 159. Snake story. A, 202. iOGNE Fjord, 64 ; its depth, 66 ; grand scenery, 72. South EY, Governor, 219 ; his mistakem policy, 220. Spinoza, 20. Sport, Sense of, 241. St. Neot, Life of, 13. St. Olaf, 87. St. Vincent, 190. StrOmen. At the, 78. Style, The author's, a masterpiece of writing, 32 ; specimen extracts, 33-40. Sumptuary laws, 148. Sunday in Norway, 81 ; no Sabbatari- anism, 98. T. Thunder-Storm, a South African, 216. " Times of Erasmus and Lnther," 24. Tory, Au English, in Nonvay, 84. TouRLSTS encountered, 93. Town organizations in Old England, 167. Trabancho, 223 ; the king and his court, 224. Trade associations in Old England, 168. Trade-winds, 192. Trondh.jem (see Drontheim). TUNBRIDGB, 230. Vikikg's ship. A, 99. Villanagb in Old England, 145. W. Wages in Old England received by all. 49. Wealth not the aim of a nation, 193. Welsh, Miss Jane, 246 ; resolves to marry Carlyle. 248 ; makes a full con- fession, 249 ; visits the Carlyles, 251; her married life, 251 ; experience at Crai^enputtock, 2.53; her views of life, 2,55. Wesleyan mission station, 223. Work the condition of life, 48. 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