^/^?a^*^/f UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA agricultural Experiment station College of agriculture e j wickson. d. rector BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA CIRCULAR No. 59 January, 1911 TREE GROWING IN THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS BY ERNEST B. BABCOCK ASSISTED BY HARRY A. GREENE FIVE YEAR OLD COAST LIVE OAK TREE-GROWING IN THE PUBLIC SCHOOLS Foreword : Vocational studies will sooner or later receive their due proportion of time in the daily programs of our public schools. If certain pro- posed laws are passed communities desiring this happy change may secure it if the people are willing to pay part of the initial cost. Mean- while progressive school people and communities wish to make a beginning in this line of work. Certain phases of agriculture and horticulture have already been introduced into courses of study. But to many it does not seem possible to do much that is worth while under existing conditions. It is the aim of this circular to suggest a few ways by which we may connect school activities with life activities and thus prepare our boys and girls to be more efficient citizens. Tree-study and tree-growing comprise a special phase of nature- study and gardening. Gardening is one kind of manual work that is possible in some degree for every school. Moreover it is found to offer the most in interest, opportunity and educational value of all manual work when properly conducted, while it can be correlated with most of the other studies to great advantage. Children have studied about trees in school for years. As a part of nature-study the work with trees has been largely confined to practice in identification and to observation of life histories, together with stories about trees in lower grades, and, rarely, elementary forestry from books and bulletins in upper grades. This is good as far as it goes, but it lacks the one thing essential to vital teaching. Boys and girls should learn to grow trees. Then they will have a sound basis for intelligent appreciation of the economic importance of trees. We have made pupils learn dry facts about lumbering long enough. Now let us have them first understand what it means to grow trees for lumber and we shall see the next generation more intelligent on the great subject of conservation.* There are some other advantages to be gained through tree- growing in the schools. We have thousands of miles of barren country roadsides in California that could be planted to shade trees by the school children. Of course, it is essential that the trees be not only well grown and properly planted but that they be protected and cared for until established. School children have met these conditions successfully in some localities and with good leadership any child can *See "Conservation of California Resources" by Hon. Edward Hyatt, Superintendent of Public Instruction, .Sacramento, California. do this work well. But leaders need to know how and one purpose of this circular is to give plain, concise directions for teachers and others who desire to serve the community in this way. We now have state laws authorizing county supervisors and city councils to appropriate money for the planting and care of trees along streets and roads. A scheme has been worked out by Mr. H. A. Greene, of Monterey, by which school children might grow trees for this pur- pose, make a first class guard for each tree and care for the trees during the first year for a cost not to exceed 50 cents per tree. It is obvious that the success of the plan would depend chiefly upon co- operation of school officials and teachers in the districts concerned. Granted such co-operation and with the help of one competent super- visor, good results should be secured. What is needed now is at least one unselfish, public spirited citizen in every county with treeless roads to push this good work. Meanwhile individual schools and teachers should be doing what they can. There is always the need of improving school and home grounds and trees and shrubs offer the best material for permanent beautifica- tion of grounds and streets. The expense of securing them from a nurseryman is often prohibitive and when obtained in that way the children do not get the benefit to be derived from growing them. Growing and caring for trees means training in observation, com- parison, judgment, manipulation, responsibility and true patriotism and, at the same time, provides interesting and healthful outdoor occupation. Tree-growing will be practicable for manv schools where ordinary gardening is not. This circular is intended to encourage and help superintendents, trustees and teachers to introduce tree-growing into their schools. BEST TREES FOR CHILDREN TO GROW Some trees are difficult to propagate but many of our common native and exotic species can easily be grown if proper methods are used. The time required for germination is an important factor in determining the best trees for children to plant, for there is wide variation in the germination period among various trees. Considerable difficulty has been experienced in getting accurate information as to time of ripening and germination periods and the writer will appreciate corrections from any source. All the trees listed below are desirable for grounds and parks, but some are better than others for street and roadside planting. The latter are indicated by the asterisk (*). w 3 'o CM *^ +j : i a to T3 o o ja , .0 .Q •* *2 >H V-c M .2 3 3 1 u O O o X Ph (^ CO E H to o3 bJD O ^ M CO (0 G J* O a> | o> £ CM CM tH ,_, CO CO ,_i rt o3 3 P H •£ S HH N tj B3 > .° o QJ B g a c - el to CO to a C c V V 03 Ct/J — . r>. 3 T3 ^ •« §^ c 8 c £ a =5 a 3 -g o3 ^ « T3 G +j _ "- 1 tO *3 QJ $3 to QJ •£ (LI l-H C o3 o Q Q co a, c -0 '-f 1 X o « N !D ifj (N O N M i- 1 I dJ 0> CLl 13 3 3 1 'to 'x '55 i x co to i c o o . ». a a ', t/ - x x bC be rt <^ o3 m b/, &2 1 2 33 a3 ,J3 .B C Wh U O a a o - to to 5 ^ "C "C ^ c o o to to to ~ ■— d o3 o3 ^ |2 > .£ ^J 33 ! O to 1- i > QJ *r o s O ^ c T7, Tr, 03 ^ -4 c w (U j; 03 -^ biO 3 § o c CO .S o H P a? •a ^ be cd ;3 v P cd (75 .2 c (Li ,« O £ E c- 5 +j j-J cd ■al .c a a- o CO cd ? £ E a; — c 53 C- -,H ■d c l» o ^ H > = £ S S en p O P P 3 e w p a. u cj£ CU 7Z M P (A) CO ^ GO M ^f C^ ^ g bo o c c be C « > »-. O O cd Z Z S a cj cu o o o ■r. X M co -r; ^ ~ co V) O 'o cd CD E a tit 'C "o ^ aJ u. u c O w aj ^ 1 o 3_ , f a3 rf aj CU M C be (< +j m a § c c c g c 5 o o o co g 6 £ c CN (^ iM T-i CN ir. 'S: o *d S? -j- o ^ T i P o u s CU CU tn CU X M O u P P S * P ■3 5 O cd * a P ^ l-< CU -t-J *— ■ -«— » co CU CO i) J2 cd x OttU c •- O ^3 « ^ Id ^ WD +j CQ CU V ^ ■ c c a o o o tN B 6 c cu .0 9* >~> CU 3 CU c 2 _ co £ cd eti cd CU <■« rt -t CO 4-J c 2 o £ i bo ' S3 JE, CO cd — 5 cd £ £ ^ i C cd c I S S3 ^ -5 C s ^ < *s C P -^ B t* m c ^,^ P S ^ S « cu s % cd cu P P I I a, a. Q_ t/2 In the case of many trees some seeds will grow if the seeds are merely planted in good soil. But to insure greater success brief, special directions are given in most cases. Where no directions are given it is to be understood that the seeds are to be sown in beds or boxes according to the general directions given below. In some cases the special directions refer to keeping the seed in case it is not con- venient to plant it when gathered or received. This should assist schools in keeping seed for exchange and, to some extent, prevent the great waste of tree seed which now exists. HOW TO GROW TREES In general seedage operations differ according to size of seeds. Large and small being relative terms, we have chosen an arbitrary measure for the purpose of dividing seeds into two classes. Methods for Large Seeds. (Longest dimension of seed 1-4 inch or more). (1). Sprouting. Provide a box or make a sunken bed 6 or 8 inches"deep. Fill in about 4 inches of sand or coal screenings if sand is scarce. Place seeds on this bed and cover with sand to a depth of 1-2 to 2 inches, according to size. Keep moist by occasional watering if there is no rain. Examine frequently after the first month. When nuts and other large seeds begin to sprout they should be planted. Smaller seeds may be left to grow until 2 or 3 inches high and then transplanted. In regions of large rainfall or where drainage is poor it is better to have the box elevated, drained and banked with earth. The method above described is called stratification. Orange, loquat, cherry and other seeds that die if allowed to become dry are stratified in damp sand or leaf mold and later planted in seed beds where they grow for one year before being set in the nursery. Elm, maple, ash and box elder may be treated in the same way. When only a few trees are desired in certain places and with the least amount of work, nuts and stone fruit pits may be planted where the trees are to grow, putting two or three in a place. Acorns should be kept in damp sand, leaf mold or moss, in a cool, darkened place, until they can be planted. (2). Planting Sprouted Seeds. The easiest method is to plant the sprouted seeds where the tree is to remain permanently. When plans for beautification are definitely arranged and certain protection can be provided for the seedlings when they come up, this method will be satisfactory but when following this method in orchard planting, of walnuts for example, growers usually plant two or three seeds where one tree is to stand and then, if more than one seedling grows, the strongest is saved. This would answer for many small seeded trees, if several seeds were planted in well pulverized soil at each spot where a future tree is desired. The acacias and most of the common deciduous trees like the maple, ash, box elder and catalpa would give results in this way. Often it is not convenient to plant the sprouted seeds where they are to grow. When growing trees for sale or for exchange with other schools it will be necessary to provide for transplanting and all the handling necessary in connection with transportation from grower to planter. Two general methods are suggested below with the expectation that they will be varied to suit conditions. (a) For varieties not difficult to transplant, or if the trees are intended for shipment or transplanting during their dormant period, plant the sprouted seeds in rows 3 or 4 feet apart so as to allow room to cultivate between them. This is the method in general use among nurserymen. (b) For varieties that are difficult to transplant or if the trees are to be ready for shipment or transplanting at any time, one needs some special arrangement for handling the trees without disturbing the roots. Ordinary flower pots are too expensive to use on a large scale and besides the trees must be removed from them when trans- planted, an operation always accompanied with more or less risk, especially with cone-bearing trees. The Tin Can The cheapest and most useful device for the safe handling of young trees is the ordinary tin can, of quart size or larger. By speaking to the pupils in advance it will be possible to accumulate a stock of tin cans sufficient to hold all the trees they wish to grow. Remove the cut end with a can opener or by melting the solder. Then with a sharp hatchet make two cuts across the bottom at right angles. This provides drainage and will allow the roots to escape after the tree is set out, the idea being to leave the tree right in the can, when planting out, as the tin soon corrodes and, as already stated, the cross cuts in the bottom allow the roots to grow out in case the can does not disintegrate soon enough. The older boys will soon learn to prepare the cans without danger or loss of time. After the sprouted seeds or young seedlings taken from the woods have been planted in cans, they should be set in rows in sunken beds so placed as to have partial shade during most of the day. During the dry season shade the cans with straw or other mulch, to keep 10 the moisture uniform. Set the cans on boards or handle occasionally to keep the roots from growing through into the soil beneath. Trees may be held in this way for one or two years without dif- ficulty. Figure (1) shows 98 varieties of seedling trees growing in cans. Where there is any danger of disturbance by animals, sharpened sticks stuck among the cans with the sharp ends up will keep out chickens, cats, dogs and other small animals. Trees in cans may be shipped in any quantity by putting them in a wooden box or flat and building a frame around them as shown in figure (2). (3) Budding and Grafting Fruit and Nut trees. Yearling seedlings are usually budded or grafted to the desired varieties while still in the nursery rows. The bud or graft is usually allowed to grow at least one year before being transplanted. The details of budding and grafting are explained and illustrated in "Agriculture for vSchools of the Pacific v Slope" by Hilgard and Osterhout. (*). Methods for Small Seeds. (Longest dimension of seed less than 1-4 inch). (1). Germination. The first requisite to success in germinating small seeds is well-prepared soil. This should consist of about one- third ordinary soil free from alkali, one-third clean bright sand and one-third leaf mold or thoroughly rotted compost. If good leaf mold or compost is not available, the ordinary soil and sand may be mixed in equal parts. Do not use beach sand unless it has been leached to remove the salt. It is important that the soil be thoroughly mixed, finely pulverized and sifted. To make a sieve knock the bottom out of a box and tack a piece of window screen in its place, or this may be done as manual training work. Sow the seed in boxes 4 inches deep. First fill the box level full with prepared soil then with a flat block of wood make the soil firm. Next scatter the seed on the surface and sprinkle over it enough sand to cover the seed to a depth equal to two or three times its thickness. Cover the box with a piece of coarse cloth or sacking which may be left until the seeds begin to germinate. Water thoroughly and set the boxes on a low bench in partial shade. By using the low bench seed boxes may be cared for more easily and are somewhat protected from slugs and snails. However, when growing citrus, eucalytpus and other trees on a large scale, it is customary to prepare seed beds. These are usually made 4 or 5 feet wide and of indefinite length with four (*) Cunningham, Curtiss & Welch, San Francisco. Price $1.20. 11 foot paths between. If necessary partial shade is secured by a lath covering that will allow about half the sunlight to penetrate. (2 ) Transplanting Small Seedlings. (a) This is an important step — points to remember: 1. Water the seed box shortly before transplanting so that the soil particles will cling to the rootlets and prevent their drying too much. 2. Have the soil into which the seedlings are to be transplanted sufficiently moist so that when the hole is made to receive a seedling the soil will not crumble and fill the hole. A piece of tin 4 inches square, bent into cylindrical form is useful for making holes and transferring plants. Press cylinder down as deep as root of seedling, squeeze to hold core, then lift. 3. Each seedling needs an equal chance to develop a root system. 4. Many young trees have been lost when set out in yard, field, and street, but this is unnecessary. 5. It is necessary to save time and energy in handling, ex- hibiting, shipping, etc. (b) How shall we meet requirements numbers 3 to 5? 1. The tin can heads the list of cheap and efficient devices. (See page 7). 2. Improved partitioned seedling flats have been made by some pupils. Flats are shallow boxes usually made in uniform length and width and four or five inches deep. Nurserymen usually fill the flats to within one inch of the top with good loam and set the young seedlings in ten rows of ten plants each. As there is nothing to prevent the roots of the seedlings from interweaving, it is necessarv to cut crosswise and lengthwise between the trees in order to separate them. This destroys the roots of each tree somewhat and loosens the soil allowing the roots to dry out so that a few trees usually die. By making partitions of pieces of pasteboard fitted together as in egg cartons and dipped in melted paraffine, a flat may be partitioned so that the root system of each tree has an equal chance. Figure (3) shows a partitioned flat (on the right) and another flat containing cylinders made of single pieces of pasteboard fastened with folded pieces of tin and dipped in paraffine. The crude paraffine can be bought at 10 cents per pound. Cans from which both ends have been removed may be used instead of pasteboard cylinders. 12 FIG. 3. PARTITIONED FLATS, PASTEBOARD CARTONS AND CYLINDERS (3). Planting Out. Directions for setting out trees have been given in two State bulletins (*). The important points are as follows: (a) Set in deep soil if possible. (b) Have the soil thoroughly prepared beforehand. In pre- paring for county road planting have three or four furrows turned in the fall and wait until January or February to set the trees. (c) Dig the hole larger than necessary to contain the roots; till in with pulverized surface soil below and around the roots. In setting street trees a foot of sand, gravel or poor soil on top will tend to direct the surface roots downward and thus prevent cracking cement walks. (d) Tramp the soil firmly while filling in. Water thoroughly afterward so as to pack the soil around the roots. (e) Trees that have been held for some time in tin cans will develop faster if the can is slit down the sides with tin shears, or if the can is entirelv removed. (*) See "Suggestions for Garden Work," Circular 46, Agricultural Ex- periment Station, Berkeley, Cal., and "Arbor Day," Bulletin Office Superintend- ent of Public Instruction, Sacramento, California. 13 Trees That Can Be Grown from Cuttings. Many trees can be grown from cuttings much more easily than they can be propagated from the seed. Such deciduous trees as the willow and cottonwood will often grow from a limb broken off and stuck in moist soil. Well prepared cuttings of these and of elm, maple, sycamore and mulberry are very easily rooted in boxes of sand. v Set the boxes in a cool, shady place until the cut ends have calloused over with young cambium tissue. Then place in partial shade so as to start the buds. Cuttings of olive, fig and citrus trees can be started in the same way. The coast redwood suckers very profusely from stumps and roots. Young suckers from a root will root readily if they are cut seven- eighths through at point of union with the root. After the roots are well started, which takes sev- eral weeks, the sprouts can be lifted and placed in tin cans. Use water freely. This has already been demonstrated by Mr. H. A. Greene as a practical method of reforestation. Figure (4) shows such a root less than one year after planting. FIG. 4. COAST REDWOOD, GROWN FROM ROOT SPROUT, LESS THAN ONE YEAR AFTER PLANTING Care and Protection of Young Trees. (1). Watering Seed Boxes and Beds. Pines, cypress, eucalyptus, acacias, oranges and in fact almost any young tree seedlings will die if kept too moist. They are usually destroyed by a mold- or mildew- like growth which develops in cool, moist weather. To prevent such loss watch the weather and water accordingly and always water in the morning, not at night. Never let seed or seedlings get dry but do not water if they are moist and the weather is damp. In humid regions or places where the fungi seem to develop in spite of careful watering and free circulation of air, it will pay to sterilize the soil with weak formaldehyde solution two or three weeks before plant- ing, stirring the soil occasionally so it will dry out. (2). Guards for Street and Roadside Trees. Some form of pro- tection is absolutely necessary. A cheap and substantial guard has been devised by Mr. Greene, which he calls the Monterey Tree Guard (see figure 5). This guard consists of four redwood strips lxll-2 inches, 6 feet long and pointed at one end, encircled by 6 or 8 strands of wire fastened with staples. On country roads barbed wire is used, but in yards and on city streets wire without barbs is better. Children can make these guards for about 25 cents each. They are durable, efficient and not overly conspicuous. To make the Monterey Tree Guard secure a slightly tapering log about 5 feet long, or use an 8-sided post as shown in figure (5a). Tack on four sharpened redwood strips 90 degrees apart just so as to hold them in place while fastening the strands of wire. Place a spool of wire on an axle and as one boy draws it off let another cut it in lengths by laying it across the edge of an old hatchet and striking it with a hammer. Attach the wires as shown in figure (5b) closer together at the bottom so as to keep out small animals and farther apart above. When the wires are in place pull out the temporary nails and the guard is complete. (3). Watering and Mulching. In most parts of California young trees need at least two waterings during the first dry season, especially if not set out in cans. This should be understood and provided for before planting. Danger of loss will be greatly reduced if a thick mulch of weeds, hay, stable manure or other loose material be placed around the tree after the surface soil has been well pulverized. The better the mulching the longer the tree will endure drouth. (4). What Is to Become of the Trees during Vacation? This is a question which it is important to have answered before doing much planting. By some it is considered an insurmountable difficulty. 1.3 (C) (B) (A) FIG. 5. THE MONTEREY TREE GUARD; (A) ON THE FORM; (B) COMPLETE; (C) ENCLOSING A YOUNG TREE The writer believes that if the trees planted before the end of the school year are set out in cans and are well mulched after planting, they will live without any water during the first summer if they are given a thorough soaking at the close of school. But the problem of caring for young seedlings in cans, boxes, beds or nursery on school grounds will have to be solved by the pupils themselves. 16 17 Children have developed enough civic pride or patriotism to volun- teer such attention as is necessary to bring the trees through the long vacation. Why not your school? Where a regular janitor is employed the problem is easy. Trees in cans may be taken home and a few attractive prizes should bring results. "Where there is a will, there is a way." BOYS' AND GIRLS' CLUBS Tree study and tree growing form most attractive topics for nature-study and agricultural clubs. Children love tree-study ex- cursions whether in Central Park, New York City, or in the mountain wilds of our own State. They respond to wise leadership. They may know more of local nature lore than their teacher at the beginning but their teacher should know how to open their eyes to wonders and mysteries they never dreamed of in the commonest roadside trees. Figure (6) is a picture of the Monterey Tree Growing Club. The recording of local nature observations has interested thousands of children in the schools of Nova Scotia. Make a list of the common trees in your vicinity. (If you have none it is time to begin growing them.) It is always interesting to study bud structure and to note when trees leaf out. When do they bloom, set seed, mature seed? Gather seed when it is ripe and exchange for other kinds of trees. Find some tree planting that is much needed in the community and have the club carry it out. Some small tree seeds are very hard to start under artificial conditions but seem to germinate in the natural habitat of the tree. The white alder so common in canons and creek bottoms behaves this way. In May or June the tiny seedlings may be found by the thousand in the wet gravel or sand along the streams. These may be transferred to cans or flats and grown successfully. The alder is a tree of rapid growth and beautiful symmetry. In the same way, oaks, buckeyes, bays, walnuts, maples and others may be found and transplanted to the school yard. In connection with the plan for planting county roadsides with trees, referred to on page 3, Mr. Greene planned to organize a co-operative tree growing club. He thinks that it would be possible to secure an appropriation from the County Supervisors sufficient to pay 50 cents for every tree properly planted and cared for during the first year by school children. TREE SEED EXCHANGE The Agricultural Experiment Station is collecting and testing seeds of many trees. Any school desiring to grow trees not found in the vicinity of the school is invited to apply for seed. Please state how IS many kinds of trees are desired and for how many pupils. If possible send us the seed of local trees in exchange. Packages weighing less than four pounds may come by mail. Packages weighing less than 25 pounds may be sent by express collect. Those over 25 pounds in weight should be sent by freight. The station is ready to co-operate in every way possible and it is hoped that the time is not far off when most of our schools will have a collection of the best trees that grow in California. BEST FREE LITERATURE ON TREE STUDY I. Tree Growing. (a) To be obtained from the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. "How to Grow Young Trees for Forest Planting." Reprint Yearbook, 1905. "Tree Planting on Rural School Grounds." Farmer's Bulletin 134. "How to Transplant Forest Trees." Forest Service Cicrular 61. "How to Pack and Ship Young Forest Trees." Forest Service Circular 55. "Suggestions for Forest Planting on the Semi-arid Plains." Forest Service Circular 99. (b) From other sources: "The Monterey Tree Grower." Occasional numbers published by Harry A. Greene, Jr., Monterey, California. 10c per single copy). "Drought-Resistant Plants for the Arid Southwest." Timely Hints for Farmers No. 83, Agricultural Experiment Station, Phoenix, Ariz. "Forest, Shade and Ornamental Trees in Washington." Bulletin 90, Agri- cultural Experiment Station, Pullman, Washington. II. On Various Trees (To be obtained from the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington D. C ). Bur Oak, Forest Sen 'ice Circular 56 Red Oak, ' ' 58 Eucalyptus, ' 59 Red Pine, ' < 60 Shagbark Hickory, ' 62 Basswood, ' ' 63 Black Locust, 1 i 64 Norway Spruce, ' ' 65 W T hite Elm, ' 66 White Pine, 1 ' 67 Scotch Pine, ' 68 Fence Post Trees, ' ' 69 European Larch, ' 70 Chestnut, ' ' 71 Western Yellow Pine, ' < 72 Red Cedar, • 73 Honey Locust, ' 74 Hackberry, ' ' 75 Silver Maple, ' 76 Cottonwood, ' 77 White Ash, ' 84 Forest Service Circular 85 " " 86 " " 89 " " 91 " ' 92 ilipTree) < 93 94 95 106 150 182 (Revised) " " 183 (To be obtained fro m the Secretary of Agriculture, 19 Slippery Elm, Boxelder, Tamarack, Coffee tree, Green Ash, Yellow Poplar (1 Black Cherry, vSugar Maple, White Oak, Douglas Fir, Shortleaf Pine, Loblolly Pine, III Forestry for Schools Washington, D. C.,). "Forestry in Nature Study." Special Circular, Office Experiment Stations. "Forestry in the Public Schools." Forestry Service Circular 130. "A Primer of Forestry, Part I. The Forest." Farmers' Bulletin 173. "A Primer of Forestry, Part II. Practical Forestry." Farmers' Bulletin 35S. IV. Other Publications for Forestry of Interest to Schools. (To be obtained from the Secretary of Agriculture, Washington, D. C. ). "What Forestry Has Done." Forest Service Circular 140. "The Status of Forestry in The United States." Forest Service Circular 167. "The Forests of the United States: Their Use." " " " 171. "The Timber Supply of the United States." " " " 166. "The Future Use of Land in the United States." " " " 159. "The Opportunities in Forest Planting for the Farmer." Yearbook Separate 517. "Practical Assistance to Owners of Forest Land and to Tree Planters." Forest Service Circular 165. "Forest Planting and Farm Management." Farmers' Bulletin No. 228. "The Control of Forest Fires at McCloud, California." Forest Service Cir. 79. "Insect Enemies of Forest Reproduction." Reprint from Yearbook for 1905. "Forestry and the Lumber Supply." Forest Service Circular 25. "The Timber Supply of the United States." Forest Service Circular 97. 'Cutting Timber on the National Forests and Providing for a Future Supply." Reprint from Yearbook of Department of Agriculture for 1907. "Forest Preservation and National Prosperity." Forest Service Circular 35. "Declaration of Governors for Conservation of Natural Resources." Farmers' Bulletin 340. BEST BOOKS ON TREES "The Trees of California," by W. L. Jepson. Cunningham, Curtiss & Welch, San Francisco. $2.50. "Forest Trees of the Pacific Slope." by Geo. B. Sudworth, Superintendent of Documents, Washington, D. C. 60 cents. "The Care of Trees." by G. E. Fernow. Henry Holt & Co. New York. $2.00. "Arbor Day" by Schaufner-Mofht Yard Co., New York. $1.00. "The Nursery Book" by L. H. Bailey. Macmillan Co. $1.50. "First Book of Forestry" by F. Roth. Ginn & Co., Boston. 75 cents. "Practical Forestry" by J. Gifford. D. Appleton & Co., New York. $1.20. "OurTreesandHowto Know Them." Emerson& Weed. J.B.LippincottCo. $3.00. Nature Library, vol. IX, "Trees." J. E. Rogers. Doubleday, Page & Co. $4.00. WETZEL BROS. PRINTING CO. BERKELEY, CALIFORNIA