CF y ,f UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA. AGRICULTURAL EXPERIMENT STATION. BERKELEY, CAL. E. W. HILGARDj Director. BULLETIN NO. 91. tt ++ ^gJ A— PORT AND SHERnY GRAPES IN CALIFORNIA. B — IMPORTATION OF ITALIAN GRAPES. C~ IMPORTATION OF OLIVES. ^-POf^T AND SHERRY < Now that the passage by Congress of the ••free fortification " provisions of the tariff bill, when rightly interpreted, will render it possi- ble for California sweet wines to compete in the world's market, it becomes of vital importance that the quality of the wines offered, especially to foreign consumers, should be such as to com- mend them to the existing taste, accustomed to the products of Spain and Portugal. This is the more essential, as we can justly claim that we possess the exact counterpart of the climatic conditions existing in those countries, the home of the olive, fig and orange; and hence there can be no excuse for our falling short of the types esteemed in commerce as the standard ports, sherries and Madeira. In consequence of the very slight encour- agement heretofore existing for the production of wines of this class, they have largely been made as a matter of convenience in disposing of material that, wtiether from the quality of the grapes or from miscarriage in fermentation, could not readily be made into good dry wines. It is but natural that a good deal of the sweet wine thus thrown upon the market bore but a slight resemblance to the type of which it bore the label, for grapes of the claret type are no more fit for making port than Ehenish grapes are for making sherries, or vice versa. It has, however, been early recognized that 3R/cPES IN ©TOcLlfORJMIA. the San Joaquin valley, and later on, that the foothills of the Sierra have a tendency to im- part the port and sherry character to the wines from grapes not too far removed from the type of those used for that purpose in the Old World. Excellent samples of such wines have been produced, and a few wine-makers have made a specialty of their manufacture. In general, nevertheless, the plantations of grapes especially adapted to the purpose are few and relatively of small extent. The prob- ability that under the improved prospects of the sweet-wine industry, it will be desired by many to graft over other vines to the best sherry or port grapes, renders it desirable that a succinct discussion of the several varieties suitable to that purpose and now obtainable within the State should be given for the benefit of those concerned. A highly essential advantage possessed by most of these grapes as compared with those of the claret and Burgundy types is that they re- sist to an extraordinary degree the influences under which the wines made from grapes of the latter two types become vinegar. Instead, they undergo, under the continued action of warm air, the change to the true sherry and port flavor, which in its more advanced devel- opment is known under the name " ranch, 1 ' Since the least acetic (or vinegar) taint is far $ more offensive in sweet than in dry wines, this peculiarity of the true port and sherry grapes is most valuable to the maker, and should com- mend them for exclusive use in all high-grade sweet wines. It is of course true that when grown in unsuitable localities any of these grapes may measurably lose their resistance to acetic taint and will not readily assume the " rancio" flavor when under the influence of the artificial climate of the hot-room. On the other hand, varieties that in the coast climate will ordinarily make wines of the claret or Bur- gundy types may in the Great valley or Foot- hills make at least fair port wines. The same holds true more or less as regards white grapes in their relation to the sherry type: yet on the whole it is much more difficult to make the product from Rhenish or Sauterne grapes pass muster as sherries or Madeiras. It is certainly much more reasonable to conform as s on as possible to the recognized natural adaptations of climate and soil, and use for the production of the several classes of sweet wines the grapes which the experience of centuries has shown to be the best for that purpose. Below are given brief descriptions of the port and sherry grapes thus far known to be grow- ing in California, together with such data as I have been able to obtain either from the viti- cultural stations and the experimental viniri- cations at the Station laboratory, or from the experience of others. PORT WINE VARIETIES. Tinto Oao. — Tin to c&o or Tinta cam is a very old variety of the Douro region ; in Portugal it is very highly esteemed for its strong and good wine, but is not a very productive variety. It requires short pruning. Bunches somewhat loose, average size and irregular ; berries round, rather small, bluish-black; skin thick and tough; juice sweet and astringent. This variety matures late. At Cupertino, it has usually given a small or poor crop, much damaged by coulure; the average sugar acquired bv the must is about 24 per cent. The wine obtained at the Station cellar is only of fair quality and difficult to keep. Evidently this variety, like the related varie- ties from Portugal, requires a warmer climate; in fact the same varieties grown at Fresno al- ways gave a more abundant crop and of better quality. . Tinta/^tmarella. — This is one of the best varieties ot the Douro region in Portugal ; it is there a very large bearer and grows very well in strong soils. Bunches, of good size, pyramidal or conical, heavily shouldered, close. Grapes, medium size but irregular, varying from very small to rather large, and from nearly round to dis- tinctly oval. Skin, rather thick but not tough. Flesh, firm but juicy, flavor, sweet, not marked. Peduncle thick, strong and woody. Pedicels, rather long and of medium strength. Generally it ripens about the middle of Octo- ber at Cupertino, being therefore of rather late maturity. The observation made in regard to Tinta-cao must be repeated for this variety, viz., a small or average crop at Cupertino and Mission San Jose, while bearing a big crop in Fresno. Much coulure observed at the former localities, very little at the latter. Sugar contents of the must averaging 25 per cent. The wine is of lair quality, but requires blending to make a fault- less port wine. Tinta dr Madeira. — This is one of the sev- eral M Tintas" (black varieties) growing on the Island of Madeira. Bunches, medium size, cylindrical or conico-cylindrical, shouldered, sometimes loose, sometimes rather compact, ' Berries, medium sized, round; skin, thick but tender, dark colored; flesh, juicy, without marked flavor. Peduncles, green, of medium thickness. Pedicels, slender and rather long. Generally it matures some days before the "Tinta Amarella." At the experiment plot in Cupertino, has given a pretty rair crop, always more than either Tinto-cao or Tinta amarella. It had also very much less coulure than the two latter varieties. Must averaging about 25 | per cent of sugar at Cupertino. Wine obtained is only of fair quality. Mourisco Preto (Mourisco tinto do Douro, Uva rei). — This is one of the most highly es- teemed vines of the Douro region, and must not be confounded witli the Mourisco cultivated in the Minho country, which is totally different. It is of vigorous growth and makes hard and strong wood; leaves large, of uniform size, al- most round. Bunches numerous and some- times very large, pyramidal in form; berries large, pale black; flesh quite firm, skin thick, juice sweet and agreeable. It matures late in the second epoch; no observations have been made on it at the station since 1884, when grapes were received from the Natonia vineyard on Sept. 26th and showed only 21. i per cent of sugar. It was reported as bearing heavily; it doubtless belongs in the warmest parts of the State. Bastardo. — This variety, extensively planted at the Island of Madeira and In Portugal, is quite widely cultivated in Spain for red, sweet wines. It grows also perfectly in Northern and Central French vineyards as well as in Southern localities. Its bunches generally are small, cylindrical or conico-cj'lindrical* berries of average size, regular and ovo-conical in I form, entirely black, and tough; flesh juicy, I sweet and very agreeable. It has strong and regular growth and matures early. At the experiment plot at Cupertino the Bas- tardo has given somewhat large crops, suffering but little from coulure and sunburn. Must contains on the average about 27 per cent of sugar. Wine obtained at the experiment cellar from this variety has been only fair; it was of rather delicate quality, but not a good keei>er. In Portugal, the Avarelhao (known here as Pied de Perdrix) is usually blended with it for the darker-colored export wines, or " ports." Alvarelhao (Locaia — Pied de Perdrix).—^ variety, known in California as Pied de Perdrix, but only very little cultivated, ought to be propagated more than has been done heretofore, . because it is one of the best " port" wine varie- ties, which remedies the deficiencies of the Bastardo, with which it is usually blended on' account of its intense color (shown even in its leaves) and heavy body. Bunches medium size J branched; berries medium size, regular, oval, black, tender; flesh sweet but with considerable acid, very agreeable. Matures early (end ot August). It is very liable to attack by the 41 Oidium," or powdery mildew. At Mission Bail Jose, matured late for its kind and gave 3 small crop, while in Fresno it showed a better crop and ripened early, but no samples surS- cient for experimental working have "been w 5 seems to be a synonym of Dolcetto nero. &—Paga-debito. — k black variety from the M Puglie." Good for wine, abundant bearer. 9— Monca— A black grape. Its wine is one of the best made in Sardinia. 10— Neiretta.— This black variety is v^ry much cultivated at the Saluzzo vineyards, Piedmont. It i* a heavy bearer. 11— San Giovcto.—A Tuscan variety, which, blended with Canajolo and Malvasia bianca (without perfume), makes the majority of good Tuscan wines. According to Count Rovas- enda's experiments, it would make a good blend with Freisa and Barbera. 12— Cadone— A Pitdmontese variety, bearing large bunches and making a strong and dark- colored wine. It requires long pruning but is a somewhat irregular bearer. 13— Bolgnino or Nebbiolo di Dronero.— This is also a Saluzzo variety, but different from the true Xebbiolo. It makes however, a good wine. U—Xeiretto grosso canavese.— From Piedmont. A grape of abundant acidity and of fairly deep color. lo—Croattina.— Especially cultivated at Vog- hera, Piedmont. It has a'round, black berry larger than the Bonarda. In deep soils produces a well-colored wine. W—Danugue'—A Southern French variety, identical with the Gros Guillaumc from Nice, possessing large berries, but of late maturity. 17— Antibo.— Large-berried, black; cultivated at Saluzzo for table use. 18— Quagliano.— Table grape with large black fruit of great delicacy, especially if cultivated in light soils. 13— Ocrudibove— Black variety from Sardinia, very large-berried, late maturity. 20— Bemestia violacea— Grape variety from Piedmont. It has very large berries. 21— Pelaverga.— Another Saluzzo variety, cul- tivated especially for table use. It is an abun- dant bearer; bunches reddish-black and large berries. In the Saluzzo countiy it is also used to make a special carbonated sweet wine. yi-Croctto or Moretto — Another Piedmont variety, giving a dark-colored must. 23— Corbeau.— This variety is already known in California. -4—Cheninnoir.—A French variety giving a well-colored wine. 2^—Mammolo toscano.—A Tuscan variety of |ate maturity in northern exposures. It is bttle colored and possesses a violet bouquet. 26— Barbarossa di Finalborgo. — Another one of the several Barbarossa varieties of Italy. It is good both for wine and table use and also as a keeper for winter use. 27— Favorita.— According to Count Rovasenda, is identical with the " Vermentino di Liguria" a good white variety both for wine and table use. 28 — Vernaccia sarda. — A white variety from Sardinia. Large bearer; good for wine. In Count Rovasenda's collection it gives an immense crop. 29 — Olivette de Cadenet. — A white table-grape variety from France. Late maturity. It seems identical with the Crujidero. 30 — Catarattu a la Porta. — A White Sicilian variety for wine. It is a heavy bearer, with large and yellow-colored berries, but matures late. The Catarattu varieties are used in making the famous Marsala wines. 31 — Malvasia di Brolio. — A Tuscan variety for wine. It is a heavy bearer. 32 — Erbalus di Caluso. — A Piedmontese white variety especially used for